ROBERT IIAM1LL NASSAU
Frontispiece
MY OGOWE
Being a Narrative of Daily Incidents Dur-
ing Sixteen Years in Equatorial West Africa
By
ROBERT HAMILL NASSAU, M.D., S.T.D.
Author of "Fetishism in West Africa," "Where Ani-
mals Talk," "The Youngest King," "In an Ele-
phant Corral," and so forth
NEW YORK
THE NEALE PUBLISHING COMPANY
1914
Copyright, 1914, by
Robert Ham ill Nassau
BANTU PRONUNCIATION
In Bantu all the English letters are used, except C, Q,
and X.
Instead of hard C is used K, e.g., Kongo.
Instead of soft C is used S, e.g., Sette.
Instead of Q is used Kw, e.g., kwango.
G is always hard.
5J has the nasal sound of ng.
Close every syllable with a vowel.
Accent the penult.
Among the vowels :
a has the sound as in far, e.g., ka-la-ka.
a has the sound as in all, eg., Ba-na-ka.
e has the sound as in they, eg., E-lo-bi.
e has the sound as in met, e.g., A-ye-nwe.
o has the sound as in note, e.g., Ko-ngo.
u has the sound as in rule, e.g., U-ga-nda.
Ng reduplicates itself, e.g., Mba-ngwe, as in the English
"finger" (as if, fing-nger).
In the case of two or three initial consonants, a semi-
vowel sound may he prefixed, e.g., Ngweya, as if iNgweya.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PAGE
Preface n
CHAPTER
I Preparations 13
II Entering the Ogowe 18
III Prospecting 40
IV Overland to the Coast December, 1874 . . 59
V At the Seaside Stations December, 1874-
March, 1875 63
VI Return to the Ogowe April, 1875 .... 67
VII At Kasa's Town April-June, 1875 ... 70
VIII Up the Ogowe by Canoe August, 1875 $9
IX With an Insane Companion August, 1875 . 93
X Return to Kasa's, August, 1875 96
XI The Belambla Hut October, 1875 .... 100
XII The Belambla House -March, 1876 . . . 132
XIII A Highway Robber, August, 1876 149
XIV Belambla Plundered, August, 1876 .... 155
XV Belambla Station Abandoned, September, 1876 162
XVI With Re-nkombe, November, 1876 .... 174
XVII At the Kangwe Hut, January, 1877 .... 195
XVIII Ox the Kangwe Hill-side, October, 1877-jAN-
UARY, 1880 233
XIX On a Furlough February, i88o-December,
1881 335
XX A Honeymoon, October-December, 1881 . . . 360
XXI Prospecting Again, January, 1882 .... 368
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER PAGE
XXII In Camp at Talaguga, July, i882-December,
1882 397
XXIII In the Talaguga Hill-side Cottage, February,
1883-DECEMBER, 1883 424
XXIV In the Valley of the Shadow, January, 1884-
AUGUST, 1884 445
XXV A Mother-Task, August, 1884-1886 .... 461
XXVI The Mother-Task Continued, February, 1886-
JULY, 1888 515
XXVII The Task Ended, August, i888-February, 1891 583
XXVIII Furloughed. February, 1891-JuLY, 1893 . . 696
XXIX The Ogowe Passes, 1892 700
Index 701
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Robert llamill Nassau Frontispiece
FACING
PAGE
Mission du Congo (map) n
English Trading-house, Libreville (side view) 16
English Trading-house, Libreville (front view) 18
The Lower Ogowe 21
Climbing Perch 23
View Down the Ajumba Branch from Eyenano Island ... 34
Baraka Premises 62
Plateau Government House 64
Bamboo-palm Building Material 82
Hut Building 84
River Canoe-travel 89
Mygale Spider 138
Fetish Doctor and Attendant Drummers 153
A Village Palaver 158
View Up-river from Kangwe Hillside 160
Congo Francais (map) 174
Mpongwe Woman and Child 193
Village Preaching 203
Otanga, German Trading-house, Lambarene 218
Rear View from Kangwe House 232
Baraka House 240
The Ravine Bridge 247
Galwa Women 258
Palm-wine Gourd-bottles 271
The Man-leopard 286
A Bunch of Palm-nuts 338
English Trading Steamer at Aguma. Lambarene .... 368
Andende Boat-landing 370
Fanwe Woman 380
Fan we Man and Wife 382
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
FACING
PAGE
French Fleet of Canoes 399
The Mountain Brook 406
Mouth of Talaguga Brook, and Log-bridge 408
Fanwe 439
Ivory Tusks 453
Big Tree-stumps at East End of the House 481
Ogowe 1st Church, Andende (side view) 495
Ogowe 1st Church, Andende (rear view) 497
Rear View of Andende House 506
Kangwe School-girls 513
Miss I. A. Nassau, Dr. Nassau and Infant, and Nurse Keva . 515
Talaguga, Ogowe River 517
Caught 520
Kangwe Hill and Andende House 522
English Trading-house, Asange 527
Talaguga Chapel 566
Palm-oil Trees 580
French Trading-house, Asange 594
English Trading-house (Ivory and Thatch), Asange . . . 602
Igenja Church 607
German Trading-house, Cape Lopez 633
Flat-bottomed, Stern-wheel French Steamer, Lambarene . . 665
Fan we Warrior 681
I'anwe Warrior 683
Faiiwe Warrior 685
Talaguga Brook, Bridge, Chapel, and Shop 687
Talaguga House, Grove, Prayer-room, and Chapel .... 689
PREFACE
I
In June, 1842, a Mission of the A. B. C. F. M. had been es-
tablished on " Baraka " Hill, in the town of Libreville, on the
Estuary of the Gaboon River, West Africa, twenty-three miles
north of the equator. Efforts to extend to the interior by route
of that river, reached only seventy miles, at a point called Angom.
Native obstruction barred farther advance.
A Mission of the Presbyterian Church (north) was located,
in 1850, on Corisco Island, in Corisco Bay, one degree north of
the equator. An attempt, some ten years later, by Rev. Messrs.
Mackey and Clemens, to penetrate the interior, by route of the
Muni River (one of the two affluents of the Bay), was success-
ful for only thirty miles, being barred by native obstruction ; and
was never again attempted.
In 1869, Rev. S. Reutlinger, my associate at Mbade, the mouth
of the Benito River, one hundred miles north of the equator,
tried to reach the interior, by that river. He penetrated only
fifty miles, and returned, dying of erysipelas.
All along the coast, the native tribes welcomed white men,
both missionaries and traders, for the sake of the trade of the
latter, and for the goods that the former necessarily spent in
purchase of food, and employment of workmen. As long as
these white men prosecuted their respective works within the lim-
its of the coast tribe, on only the sea-beach, or not more than a
few miles interior-ward, they were treated with respect, were
allowed large liberty in the control of their households, and in
the making of short journeys. But, any attempt, by a white
man, to make any permanent location interior-ward beyond the
limits of the coast tribe that claimed a monopoly in him and his
goods, was met by a boycott of all means of travel. A deter-
mined attempt on his part, would be met by personal injury, and,
as an extreme means of prevention, even his murder. Coast
monopoly must be maintained at any cost ! The despised " bush-
men " of any interior tribe must not be allowed a full share in
the foreigner's riches!
That monopoly had thus, for thirty years of the Mission's life,
barred all missionaries from reaching the tribes of the Interior.
12 PREFACE
During my furlough in the U. S.. of iS>y2-'jT after more than
ten uninterrupted years of service on the coast at Corisco and
Benita, Secretary Rev. F. F. Ellinwood, D.D., spoke to me very
decidedly as to our Mission's duty to reach the interior. Said
he, " All these thirty years you missionaries have been hanging
on to only the edge of the continent. Why don't you go ahead
inland?" I explained that our apparent slowness was not due
to indolence or lack of attempt, but to that impassable monopoly,
that thus far had hindered even the traders who possessed
stronger means of power than we. He still protested, " The
Church at home will not be satisfied with that explanation, nor
will it continue cordially to support the work, unless a demon-
stration is made to prove progress."
A spirit of adventure that, from boyhood, had made me wish
to be a soldier, had always quickened my pulses at thought of
the interior. T enjoyed the idea of itineration, and forest-travel,
and camp-fires. And, I had been the first to obtain, in 1864,
permission to break away, from the restriction of the little Co-
risco Island, to the larger field of the mainland at Benita.
(Though, to my regret, I had allowed my friend George Paull
to precede me alone by a few months, to what proved to be his
death.)
I replied, " Dr. Ellinwood. the Gaboon, the Muni and Benito
rivers have been tried, in vain, as pathways to the Interior.
When my furlough is ended, I am willing to attempt a route by
the Ogowe River: but, I do not think the Mission will permit
me. Will you. not only authorise me to make the attempt, but
also direct the Mission to appoint me?" He promised that he
would see that the Board should make the way clear for me.
Thus it was that I returned to Africa in the Spring of 1874,
authorised to make a station on the Ogowe.
MY OGOWE
CHAPTER I
PREPARATIONS
ON my arrival at Libreville, in June, 1874, while waiting
formal appointment by the Mission, I gathered infor-
mation from various sources, acquainting myself with
the topography of the Ogowe region.
At Cape Lopez, some sixty miles south of the equator, a
large river, whose name is variously spelled : by the English,
Ugobai ; by the French, Ogooue; by the Germans, Ogowe; by
the native Mpongwes, Ogovi (pronounced, Ogowi), empties
itself into the South Atlantic by numerous mouths, making an
enormous Delta, as in the case of the Nile, the Niger, and the
Mississippi. Two of those months, viz., the Nazareth, and the
Ogowe (proper), open into Nazareth Bay, north-east of Cape
Lopez: a third, the Yambe, at the Cape itself; the Mexias and
Fernan Vaz emerge to the south of the Cape. The stream that
opens by the Fernan Vaz mouth is the longest side of the tri-
angle of the Delta, as it starts from the Ogowe, at least seventy-
five miles up the river.
Living at the mouths north of the Cape was the Orungu tribe.
They had done a large business in slaves in past years, and had
amassed a great deal of wealth. One of their kings at Sanga-
tanga on the coast, was the possessor of three hundred wives,
and slaves whose number he had ceased to reckon. Notwith-
standing the proximity of the Orungu to the French at Gaboon,
they were still, by aid of the Portuguese, exporting slaves to St.
Thomas and Prince's Islands, some two hundred miles west-
ward.
Up the Ogowe. for seventy miles, were scattered villages of
the Nkami tribe (mis-written by Du Chaillu, " Commi " ; and
by the English, "Camma"). Beyond this, for seventy miles
farther, there were the Galwa, with a sprinkling of two or three
other smaller tribes. All these. Orungu, Nkami. Galwa,
Inenga, etc., spoke such close dialects of Mpongwe, that they
13
i 4 MY OGOWE
had no difficulty in making - themselves perfectly well understood
by each other. For forty miles beyond the Galwa, was the
Akele (plural Bakele). Their language (called Dikele) resem-
bled more the Benga than it did Mpongwe.
Farther on, were the Okota and other tribes, whose speech
also was said to resemble the Benga.
So, of the numerous tribes of this river, the two dialects,
Benga and Mpongwe (in the former of which I was fluent)
already written, would suffice for my prospective interior ad-
vance, without requiring me to reduce any to a grammar, or to
print the Scriptures for each. Except, it might be, for the one
tribe, larger than any other of which we knew, the Faiiwe.
Nevertheless, in each tribe, it still would be the first and all-
important duty of the missionary to learn to speak the dialect
of his people. I regarded this as indispensable. Happily, for
whoever should locate among the Bakele, their language had
been written, and a portion of the Scriptures printed in it, by
Rev. Ira S. Preston, when he lived among that tribe on the
Gaboon River. Without disparagement of the admitted attain-
ments of others, it is true that the old Gaboon Mission lost its
best linguist when Mr. Preston, by a strange Providence that
deprived him of his voice for even extended conversation, had
reluctantly to return with his wife, a most devoted missionary.
to America. Mrs. Preston, in the United States, still tried to
work for Africa, by writing a little book, " Gaboon Stories "
(published by the American Tract Society).
Though no missionary work had been done in the Ogowe, it
had not been entirely closed to the entrance of white men.
Portuguese slave-traders, under the guidance and control of na-
tive chiefs, had been allowed to enter 140 miles, to the mouth
of an affluent, the Ngunye. Its point was a sacred fetish,
beyond which no white man might go. The entrance of these
Portuguese was an exceptional privilege. Their only trade was
for slaves from the far interior, in which they were hand-in-
hand with the lower river tribes, and for which they paid, not
in goods but in cash.
Long ago also, in the prosperous days of the old " Gaboon
Mission," before its weakness had made it seek strength, in
1871. by union with the (then) equally weak former " Corisco
Mission." Rev. Messrs. Wm. Walker and Ira Preston had made
an inspection of the Ogowe, in an open boat. They found the
usual mangrove forest lining the marshy shores, for the first
twenty miles; scarcely enough of solid land on which to build
PREPARATIONS 15
even native huts. Then, for the next forty miles, they found
only a scattering Nkami population. But, there was so much
opposition by that tribe to their even visiting" the next tribe, the
Galwa, where might be found healthy high grounds for a white
station, that the Gaboon Mission made no further effort, though
either of those gentlemen was willing to make the difficult at-
tempt, if the other members of the Mission had relieved them
of their posts in Libreville.
The French Government had entered the river, and made a
survey, with its gun-boat. But it did no trading, nor built
any house. Its guns prevented any native opposition. But
that same Orungu and Nkami opposition would probably have
been made to my entering.
I thought of attempting an overland journey, via the Gaboon
and one of its affluents, the Rembwe, with the expectation of
emerging onto the Ogowe, in the limits of the Galwa tribe, who,
I believed, would welcome me. That had been done, by a
Frenchman, simply as a traveler. And, again in 1866 by a
trader, Mr. R. B. N. Walker, in an attempt to circumvent the
Orungu and Nkami. He had emerged on the Ogowe, in the
limits of the Akele tribe, beyond that sacred Fetish Point. For
which offense he had been held a prisoner by the Inenga tribe,
until a French gun-boat came to his rescue. With their aid,
he forced his way, with much danger and loss, in an exploration
for a hundred miles farther. And fortunately for me, in 1872,
he had safely ran the gauntlet of opposition from the Orungu
at the mouth of the river, by means of a small steamer, the
Pioneer, and had established a trading-house ("factory")
in the Galwa tribe, at a point 130 miles up the course of the
river. His success had been followed by a rival German firm
of Woermann. And French explorers, March and Compeigne,
had availed themselves of the fruits of his daring.
Our Mission, though reduced by the final return to the United
States of several of its members, felt called on, like Gideon with
only his 300, to go up to the Ogowe interior. I was formally ap-
pointed for this purpose, at the mission meeting held on Corisco
Island, Monday, July 13. I immediately proceeded to Libre-
ville, to prepare for the journey, intending to go over-land, with
a chosen few of the mission employees, and a minimum of bag-
gage. Various hindrances, by the season of the year, by mis-
sion necessity, and even by native traders and others who did
not sympathize with the idea of enlightening the interior tribes
among whom they traded, delayed me.
16 MY OGOWE
I could have gone in our mission cutter, the Hudson, the
seventy-five miles south to the Ogowe, towing a boat, in which
I might attempt to ascend the river. But the attempt would
have been in vain. Personally, I would not have been injured ;
but. my goods would have been robbed and the boat seized.
A request to the German firm, to give me passage on their
little steamer, was refused. They had little sympathy with
missionary work.
In a very different spirit. Mr. Walker offered me passage and
protection on the Pioneer. But, I was to wait until near the
close of the long, cool, dry season (June-September), when the
beginning of the rains would flood the river, and make safe
the Pioneer's passage of the Ogowe's many sand-bars. His
observation of previous years made him willing to start the
vessel, in advance of any rains, the river always rising from in-
terior floods in its sources lying under a different latitude from
its mouth. Returning to Benita to pass the interval in visiting
my sister, I finally, at Mr. Walker's appointment, started from
there, with two faithful Kombe young men. on Saturday. Aug-
ust 29, to Elobi Island, opposite the mouth of the Muni River,
arriving on the 31st. But. the Pioneer was not readv until Sat-
urday. September 5. By the courtesy of Mr. Walker. I was
made a comfortable passenger on the Pioneer. (The same as
used by Livingstone on the Zambesi, in 1858. while he was
British consul.)
With healths drank, and a hand-shake all around, and kind
good wishes, the Pioneer steamed out of Corisco Bay. to
stop en route at Libreville. There I took on my supply of goods
and provisions. Of the two young Kombe men. one, Ingumu.
was to be my cook; the other, Mediko. my general helper. Both
understood English.
Everybody at Libreville prophesied that there was no use in
our starting so very early in the rainy season: that the water
of the river was not risen: and that the steamer, drawing five
feet, could not pass the numerous sand-bars. Nevertheless.
as the Pioneer was proceeding on its own trade-orders. T
clung to its fate. So. with Captain Johns, we started out of the
Gaboon, and around Pongara Point, and out to sea. southward
the seventy miles to Nazareth Bay.
The Ogowe, after flowing through a delta's length of over
a hundred miles, dividing and subdividing itself in a series of
intricate channels, finally emerges into the South Atlantic by
the alreadv mentioned five months. Of the two that empty
PREPARATIONS 17
into Nazareth Bay, one is regarded as the proper Ogowe. It
is reached, from the north over extended shallows, made by de-
posits of soil brought down by the river's swift currents in the
semi-annual rloodings, that require careful soundings as a vessel
approaches. At the very mouth itself lies a small island, the
narrow channel around which describes a perfect capital S.
CHAPTER II
ENTERING THE OGOWE
IT was an inspiration, at the very inception of my Ogowe
life, as, on the ioth of September, 1874, we entered the Naz-
areth mouth of the river, to know that I was standing on
the deck of a vessel that once had been Livingstone's ! When
he made his second great journey, back from Angola, to the
Zambesi, down its canyons, out to its mouth on the Indian
Ocean, revealing to the world the magnificent Victoria Falls of
that river, and its possibilities for the development of the eastern
Interior through the Shire branch and Lake Nyasa connections,
the British Government rewarded him with a consulship of
East Africa, assigning to him for the support of consular dig-
nity, one of its damaged gun-boats, the Pioneer. With its
engines wheezing with age, he had threaded the shallow chan-
nels of the lower Zambesi ; in it he had explored the Shire ; and,
in its cabin, Mrs. Livingstone had died.
Condemned, as no longer fit to represent Britain's power, the
Pioneer, at public sale, was bought by the Liverpool firm of
African merchants. Hatton & Cookson. and was sent by them,
dismantled of all signs of war, except two little cannon, on the
forward deck, to their trading-house in the Gaboon.
And, now, I was treading where Livingstone had trod, and
was resting in the little cabin where his brave Mary Moffat had
yielded up her life for Africa! Could I win, even in a small
measure, some of his success! Might I be inspired with some
of her bravery!
Captain Johns could not conceal his anxiety, as the Pioneer,
not daring to go at more than " half-speed," slowly crept
through the tortuous S channel. What if he should run
aground! Within view were villages of the monopolist Orungu
tribe. Out in the Bay were canoes. Were they fishing, or were
they spying? In motion, the vessel was safe; but, aground, it
could readily be robbed by a horde of Orungu, who viewed with
bitter jealousy the passage by steamer of their once dominated
trade from their hands to the hands of the interior Galwa tribe,
from whom they had obtained their riches of ivory and rubber,
18
ENTERING THE OGOWE 19
but to whom they had allowed only a very small per cent, of
the profits received from white men. And, now, those white
men were dealing directly with the Galwas, who, the tables
turned, were permitting only a small share of gain to the proud
Orungu.
The two little cannon on the bows were loaded and shotted.
A dozen rifles were conveniently arranged on the captain's
quarter-deck. The native crew could not be depended on in any
contest with other natives. Besides the captain, the only other
white men were the mate, the engineer, two young trading-clerks,
and myself. I had with me a sixteen-repeater Winchester rifle,
intended for defense against wild beasts. The captain revealed
that in any encounter with the Orungu, I would not be allowed
to be a neutral. My transportation was a favor ; my interest to
reach the Interior was a common one with the traders. " Dr.
Nassau! fill up that sixteen magazine of yours! I'll call on you
if we are attacked ! "
The Orungu probably knew of the Pioneer's armament;
and, whatever they may have thought or felt, we saw no signs of
any demonstration against us. We drew a sigh of relief as the
vessel glided into the deep and safe though narrow stream of
the river itself.
Instead of fearing, we seemed to have inspired fear on a crew
of Portuguese whom we met emerging from the river with a
large canoe-load of slaves. Notwithstanding the vigilance of
British cruisers, Portugal was still carrying on a successful slave-
trade for the supply of labor in its plantations of the adjacent
islands of St. Thome and Principe. The three tribes succes-
sively parallel to the coast, Orungu for thirty miles, Nkami for
fifty more, and Galwa for seventy more, encouraged Portuguese
to enter the river for the one object of trading slaves. (But.
beyond the 140 miles no white man was allowed to go.)
Those tribes, with salt (more valuable than gold), went them-
selves into the interior, and bought the criminal, the disorderly,
the maimed, the idiotic, the orphan child, the useless woman,
and the witch or wizard whose death-penalty had been commuted
to sale into slavery. These slaves, as gathered at small depots
near the coast, were well hidden with their boats in the back
channels of the delta, under the dense mangroves, and in streams
uncharted too small for the cruisers, miles out at sea, to ob-
serve or follow. Under the shadows of dark nights, and with
the favorable land-breeze, the small slave-schooners could run
out of the river, unseen by the cruiser, and escape to St. Thome.
20 MY OGOWK
This canoe's crew looked on the Pioneer with terror.
They hid behind the canoe's gunwales. Our flag was English !
Perhaps we were a British gun-boat! And, perhaps, they had
forgotten to make the fetish charm (trusting in the same super-
stitious beliefs of their helpless captives) that was to make them
invisible to any enemy! But, we passed without sign, on our re-
spective ways, the slavers glad to escape the Pioneer, and the
Pioneer glad to escape the Orungu.
At its mouth, the river was lined on each side by a growth
of mangrove fifteen or twenty feet in height. No shore was
visible, nor any spot where one could have set one's foot ; every-
where was the encroaching mangrove. It emerges from the
shallow water, a stem only a few inches in thickness ; and, im-
mediately, as it shoots up to its attainable height, sends out a
variety of branches ; while, from its base there are pushed out
rootlets that turn downward and enter the mud as supports for
the future tree, the original tap-root finally disappearing. The
tree therefore seems to stand on stilts. From the ends of the
branches spring leafless feelers or air-roots, themselves sub-
dividing and depending until they reach the water where they
finally take root. And, from these arise new trunks; which,
in their turn, send down new air-feelers or rootlets. It was
most astonishing! A perfect palisade, impenetrable by man.
and almost so by beast. Only with an axe or hatchet could
one have made any advance through it ; and, even then, only at
a snail's pace.
How wonderful that mangrove forest! For miles and miles,
no other tree or plant! Tall trees, big and little, some of them
eighteen inches in diameter, with bare lower trunks, their
interlaced tops struggling to the light. Standing in water and
an ooze of mud. with no firm ground: and yet. by their mesh oi
twisted, bent, intertwined mass of roots, defending a conti-
nent's ragged edges from the ocean's abrasion; and, in the con-
test, coming off victor by adding to the continent year by year a
few more acres taken from the sea. The silt and sand and float-
ing jetsam of the river's semi-annual floods are caught in that
mesh. The deposited soil pushes its swampy way into the
ocean; and the mangrove promptly follows with new seedlings,
whose clawlike root-lingers grip the mud for a new outpost in
the endless contest for supremacy. Without a tap-root, the
trees stand on their meshed feet, as Mary Kingslev wittily wrote.
" Dame Nature up-gathering her skirts from the ambient mud."
Tn and out of these meshed roots the tide flows. Down from
ENTERING THE OGOWE 21
the tree-tops, seeds, already sprouted before they fall, are drop-
ping into the mud, the young tree, from the very first contact
with earth, already supplied with leaves, and fitted for the fray
with the tides. And, banyan-like, the long forty-foot hangars
grow down to anchor themselves in that soft swamp, and thence
start a new tree-growth.
The tall tree branches, pushing everywhere for sun-light,
hang out over the stream so far that the steamer with ample
depth of water, safely rushed at full-speed so near - to them that
they brushed her side-wheels. Some travelers have called the
mangrove forest monotonous. True, there is mingled with it
no other tree or vine ; and, in its outline against the horizon,
there is no feature of height or prominence or any other mark
to distinguish one point from another in the stream's frequent
windings. But, I never felt any monotony. Rather, there was
a fascination in the infinite variety of the twists and turns and
curves of those stilted roots, thrown out at tangents from the
trunk to every point of the compass. No forest is ever entirely
silent. In other forests, there is constantly either the tread of
beast, or whisper of leaves, or twitter of birds, or at least the
song of the cicada. But, in the mangrove, there are no beasts,
unless it be a crocodile, breaking the silence with a splash in the
muddy ooze. Yet, for the mangrove, there is the tense mystery
of the silence of expectation. Silence! but, hark! the crash of
the expected fall of a dead branch. Silence ! listen to the scream
of the fish-eagle ! Silence ! only a few yards away see the ridicu-
lously eyed peri-ophthalmus fish flopping out of the mud, and
climbing those endlessly varied, claw-fingered roots.
The mangrove, loving only brackish water, monopolizes the
first ten miles of the river. For the next ten miles, it shares
the interest of the traveler's eye with impenetrable thickets of
the pandanus or screw-pine. No " pine " at all : but, its long
thorn^edged bayonet-like leaves are most regularly arranged
around the stem in the curve of a pine-cone. Its fruit, a good
imitation of a pine-apple in shape, is inedible, except its large
nut-like seeds. The pandanus too loves only the brackish
waters. Its strong-fibered leaves are a veritable blessing to the
women of coast-tribes. Dried, split, and dyed, they are skil-
fully woven into matting graced with a variety of geometrical
figures : which mats form very comfortable bedding, and are a
valuable commodity in sale to the interior tribes, with whom the
pandanus refuses to grow. As we advanced, the land began
to rise, and a larger and more varied vegetation presented itself.
22 MY OGOWE
The mangroves still continued, but in very much fewer num-
bers. As they decreased in number, they grew in size; and,
though now large trees in height, they continued to send down
those same long feelers, leafless, swinging in the air, and seeking
toward the water thirty or fifty feet below. The tall, shady,
dark-green, waxy-leafed, cotton-wood tree ramified its gnarled
roots in the fertile soil of the ascending bank. It is a tree; not
an over-grown cotton-plant, though its flowers do produce a cot-
tony filament.
Another ten miles was marked by a decrease of both man-
grove and pandanus, the appearance of low but solid earth banks,
and the growth of palms of the bamboo-, oil-, and calamus or
rattan species, and other varieties of trees. The palms stood
with their tall leafless branchless trunks, crowned, at the height of
twenty or forty feet, with their tufts of feathery-looking fronds
fifteen or twenty feet long, and each narrow leaflet two feet in
length. From one palm came the coco-nut ; from another the
oil nut; and from another the leaves are used for thatch.
Farther on, beneath and closely set around these trees, was
a wilderness of shrubs and bushes and vines; some, beautiful for
their flowers; one, white and resembling the camellia japonica:
another, large straw-colored and campanulate ; another blue, of
the convolvulus family; others, singular for their leaves of re-
markable shape or color ; one with mixed white and green leaves,
another with leaves alternately white and green.
Sunset brought the Pioneer at the end of thirty miles, to
the village of Angala, the first place where land stood sufficiently
high and solidly above the river's edge, for human habitations.
The alternating river current and ocean tide, swung the vessel
as it lay at anchor. It was the boundary between the Orungu
and the Nkami tribes. Old Chief Esongi came off to the vessel,
to ask the captain, in a friendly way, for a " present.'' For-
merly, it would have been demanded as " tribute." But, Esongi
was a wise old man. He appreciated the shadow cast forward
by coming events. His Orungu acquaintances might attempt to
avenge their injured pride by threats of assault on the trading
white men who were breaking the traditional monopoly. But,
Esongi hasted to bow to the new power, and make his gains by
a demonstration of friendship. He included me in his welcome ;
and, instead of asking the newcomer for a " gift," courteously
recognised that, in his status of host, he should give me one.
Thus began a friendship that lasted unbroken to the end of his
life. He never deceived me, or took an unfair advantage of
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ENTERING THE OGOWE 23
my needs. He was, at least to me, whatever he may have been
to other white men who met him on only commercial grounds,
true, honest, and just. He had gathered comfortable riches and
position, by his slave-dealings with the Portuguese. He did not
hesitate to tell me of the sums of silver he had handled, before
Great Britain's cruisers had made the foreign slave-trade pre-
carious. His conversations on religion, in subsequent years,
were most intelligent; though he always retained his supersti-
tions. In a later year, while resting in his village over-night,
I heard him make the official new-moon prayer to the spirits of
the air. Pleading his own virtues, he begged them not to in-
jure him or his people. As the spirits were supposed to be
malevolent, his prayer contained no praise, no love, no thanks,
only an offering, and deprecation !
The next day, the next twenty miles showed a greater variety
in the vegetation, until we came to long stretches of level delta-
land where the papyrus was almost the only plant. The banks
still rose; but, the rivers sides were steep perpendicular cuts.
The feathery papyrus was mingled with large white convolvuli.
I looked with intense interest, for the first time, on those papyri.
Little Moses' basket could readily have been placed among these,
on the very verge of the bank, but safe from being carried away
by the water; for, the edge of the bluish-clay cut of the bank
was a perpendicular height of a fathom or more above the stream
(during dry seasons). This Ogowe, three thousand miles dis-
tant from the Egyptian Nile, was sharing in its papyrus, but had
never shared in the civilization that had left its records on the
tissue of that plant.
As the stretches of the river widened, its depth decreased.
The channels were numerous and tortuous. Which should we
choose ? Captain Johns depended on the native pilot. Pilot was
of the kind that depended on memory. " Last year there was
a channel on this line, and a sand-bar over yonder/' The lead
was thrown constantly, and the Pioneer went cautiously
ahead. But, bump ! here we are aground ! Last year's " yon-
der " bar had, with the last rains, shifted over onto " this "
line. That is the Ogowe's habit. A more successful pilot is
of the kind who almost ignore all of " last year's " outlines,
and, with rarely alert eyes, watch the difference in color of shal-
low or of deep water, and the gentle surface-ripple near the edge
of a submerged bank, warning of a decrease in depth of water.
24 MY OGOWE
Progress became slower; groundings and backings-off became
more frequent. While thus aground near certain villages, two
old chiefs came off to visit the steamer, to hear the news, and
definitely to be given presents appropriate to their dignity.
" Treating," on the African coast, was universal, outside of
Protestant missionary circles. The host's very first invariable
act is to set out the bottles, varying, according to the character
of the guest, over rum, gin, brandy, wine, vermuth, absinthe,
soda, and lesser mixtures, with a flourish of " What'll you
have? " The two old men promptly took their glass of rum.
But, native etiquette and inherited superstition were seen even
in this act. Good form forbids inferiors, and even equals (if
strangers) to look on one's act of eating. And, the common
fear of " evil eye," particularly of a white man's hard eye (other
than black) hides also the act of drinking. One of these chiefs,
a very big tall man, held up a towel before his face, as he drank;
and the other, a very fat man, " blew a blessing " over the fetish-
charm ring on one of his fingers. This blowing is so forcible.
that saliva is sometimes ejected in the act. Some travelers have
misunderstood the rite, and have regarded the " spitting " as the
essential part of the ceremony.
We had entered the Ogowe on the morning of Thursday,
September 10, and, after going some fifty-five miles, by the even-
ing of September 12, the shallows and impassable sand-bars
definitely blocked our further progress. The river was still run-
ning with a swift current, and less than one thousand yards wide ;
for, my Winchester rifle, ranged for that distance, had no diffi-
culty in striking almost any point on the journey, from bank to
bank. The Pioneer lay at anchor there, for two weeks, waiting
for the unusually late and daily expected rains. We were in a
cul-de-sac. We could back out ; and that the captain did several
times, only to ground at any turn to right or left. Back again
into the cul-de-sac there was water under us ; also, for a few
yards to our right; and, a few feet distant, on our left the per-
pendicular clay edge of the river's right bank, crowned with the
dense papyri. The vessel's bow also was clear, but barred by
the end of the pocket in which we lay. And, there we lay for
twelve days! Mr. R. B. N. Walker had told the captain that
he would find the water rising as he advanced. That was usually
true. But, the rains were late. Those were anxious days.
There was no lack of fresh provisions brought by the natives
from the adjacent villages: and. the vessel lay safe with free
keel. But, how long would native cupidity refrain from avail-
ENTERING THE OGOWE 25
ing itself of our helplessness? Those two old chiefs had been
satisfied with their present on the first day. But, able to sum-
mon a horde of their adherents, might not the ethics held by
them, in common with the modern civilized wrecker, claim the
" imano " that Providence had cast in their way? How easy
to make a night attack!
There was a sudden and startling alarm on the night of Sep-
tember 13. The day had been quiet ; but, no opportunity or audi-
ence for any Sunday services. At night, there was an outcry on
the forward deck, among the Kroo crew. And, then, there
were shouts from the startled ones. Then, shouts from those
who did not know at what they were shouting. And, then shots
from the officer, who thought a warning demonstration desir-
able. When all was investigated, it was found the whole con-
fusion had begun with the yells of a vicious monkey protesting
against a deserved punishment !
I varied time during the long delay. One day, I borrowed
the captain's little boat, and, with my two Benita employees,
rowed to the left bank of the river, to the town of that fat old
chief Njagu (Elephant). It was an unusually large town. In-
stead of only the typical one long street, there were cross streets ;
and the huts were larger and well-built. I had a long and
pleasant conversation with Njagu. Around the houses I found
lime and orange trees, the seeds of which he had procured from
the sea-coast. He presented (or. to quote a very objectionable
trade-English word, which, though adopted even by some mis-
sionaries. I have never used) " dashed " me a duck. At the
village of the other old chief, Onwa-ombe (Bad-child), I was
given two chickens.
The immense quantity of water brought down in the semi-
annual flood was shown when I saw distinctly, on the face of
the perpendicular clay bank, the water-line of the previous rise.
Sitting on the Pioneer's deck, some yards below that line, it
was difficult to believe that, in a few weeks, all those lands
would be submerged. We thrust into that bank a broken plate,
on a level with the water; and then daily we watched whether
the water would rise above it.
It spoke well for the good natural traits of most of the Nkami
people, that so far from attempting to rob (they never having
had contact with missionaries, and. for only a few years previ-
ously, with any white men, other than Portuguese) they were
glad of the opportunity to find a market for their meats and
26 MY OGOWE
garden products. We feasted on fresh fish, and vegetables, and
wild meats, or chickens and eggs, etc. One day, there was
brought a crocodile. The white flesh looked attractive ; but,
at that time, I had not been taught by the stern mother Necessity
to accept almost any flesh for food. Our crew of Kroo-men,
however, had a feast.
The days were not without amusement. I had brought with
me from the United States a quantity of fire-crackers, torpedoes,
Roman candles and rockets, which I had found useful, in previ-
ous years, for pleasing our Benito children on holiday occasions.
With permission of the captain, one evening, I started some fun
among the Kroo-men, by carefully exploding some of my treas-
ures in the vicinity of their feet. They soon appreciated the
fun, and were quick to beg of me a supply, with which in turn
to startle their companions. Soon, the whole deck was in con-
fusion. There was a great deal of chasing and screaming.
The vessel's dog "Lion," entered into the excitement; he felt
that something was wrong. Or, why should these men be flee-
ing, when (as far as he could tell) no one was pursuing? Ris-
ing to an apparent sense of duty, he pursued a flying cook, much
to the terror of the latter, and caused, as evidence of the ef-
ficiency of his pursuit, a sad rent in the cook's trousers. But,
my candles and rockets, and especially the captain's blue-lights,
attracted an immense number of white-winged insects from the
papyri. Fascinated, they rushed into the burning lights, and
were destroyed by hundreds of thousands. Their assaults on
our hands and faces became intolerable. All lights had to be
extinguished. The next day I saw a bushel basketful of their
remains swept up from the deck.
Slave-canoes occasionally stopped to barter for food ; they
having, on their route, learned that we were not a British gun-
boat. In one of those canoes was a little boy certainly not four
years of age. He was such a bright-looking child ! After all
this long interval of years, I can still see that boy's eyes, as
clearly as yesterday. Not, as I had seen in others, terror, or
pain, or hopelessness. He was not speaking, nor were the
muscles of his face moving. But, the eyes were full of intense
interest of expectation. I do not think that such a child had
been sold to the man in whose charge he was. I felt sure he
had been kidnaped. Such things happened. Little packets of
the valued salt (too precious, in the Interior, to be allowed to
children or women) would be laid on the path by the village
spring. When children came to their task of drawing water,
ENTERING THE OGOWE 27
they seized the salt, as our children would seize candy. From
an ambush would spring out the slave-trader, and would carry
off the child (if justification were needed) on the charge of
stealing.
By our long stay in that neighborhood, undesirable acquaint-
ances were made. Under the low code of native morals, it was
everywhere a part of a host's hospitality to provide for a guest
a female companion at night. This hospitality was extended
also to all white visitors. Most of the traders accepted ; and the
simple-hearted woman, who willingly came, at the suggestion of
her husband or brother, felt that to be even the " temporary
wife " of a white man was an honor. The next morning, she
returned to her hut, laden with yards of calico print and an
abundance of trinkets. There were actual prostitutes in her
village; but, her temporary alliance did not place her down
among them. Some of the latter were brought to the Pioneer,
doubtless at the request of the crew. The captain probably
would not have taken notice of the transaction, had not dispute,
and finally angry quarrel, arisen over the matter of the amount
of compensation. Confusion finally became so pronounced, that,
under the captain's direction, the mate, with a long " kasa-nguvu "
( hippopotamus-hide lash ; in later years King Leopold's " chi-
cotte") invaded the crowd, and the visitors were driven tumbl-
ing pell-mell over the railing and into the river, whence they swam
ashore. Quiet was soon restored ; and our sleep was not again
broken by that cause.
Mutterings of distant thunder made us hopeful of a rise in
the river. Other mutterings, that kept the captain in daily
anxiety, of the possibility of native demands on his goods, ma-
terialised one day. Fifteen miles farther up river from our
fifty-five mile limit, lived, at the town of Ngumbe, the Nkami
Chief, Isagi. Unlike Chief Esongi, he had not fully accepted
that the Orungu-Xkami monopoly should be broken. When
Mr. Walker had made his daring journey, carrying trade to
the interior Galwa and Bakele, he had succeeded in passing
Ngumbe only by consenting to Isagi's demands that a trading-
house should be built there, a trader permanently located with
him, and a regular supply of goods be placed in his hands. It
was sheer piracy. But, Mr. Walker yielded. He built the
house, sent there an intelligent American mulatto, John Ermy,
and deposited with Isagi a large amount of goods. All these
were only a sop to Cerberus, the price of freedom from assault.
And, on his books, he put the cost to Profit and Loss. Little
28 MY OGOWE
would he receive from Isagi, in ivory or rubber, in return for
those goods! The real gain for the firm of H. & C. was to be
made (and was made) in the Galwa trading-house, under his
sub-factor, Mr. T. Sinclair. The Nkami were jealous of the
Pioneer's goods being carried beyond Ermy's " factory."
Capt. Johns, hopeless of getting up the river, had sent a canoe
messenger to Mr. Sinclair, distant about eighty miles, asking him
to come with boats and canoes into which the cargo should be
transferred and carried to its destination. On the night of Sep-
tember 1 8, arrived Ermy, with a tale of native reports of how
Isagi intended to seize the Pioneer's entire cargo! If Isagi
did that, I thought he would despise the little I had, and per-
haps I might slip through his fingers ! I planned with Ermy
about getting up river in one of his canoes. But, next morn-
ing, I arranged to send my two young men with him. Just as
he was about leaving, arrived his employer, Mr. Sinclair. I
handed him the excellent letter of introduction Mr. Walker had
given me, and I felt at once that Mr. Sinclair would be all atten-
tion. With this gentleman began an agreeable acquaintance
that extended over a dozen years. Though, like most of the
Traders, he had let down the bars of civilized morality, his
Scotch Presbyterianism and former Christian life constantly as-
serted themselves. He never treated me with discourtesy; was
sympathetic with missionary work ; and, during all those years,
was generous and helpful in matters of transportation. And,
presently, came Isagi, with five large war canoes, and flags, and
native drums, and shouts, and songs of more than a hundred
men ! I have never known what was his real intention. Cer-
tainly, intimidation was part of his scheme. He succeeded.
A spectator would have thought that he owned the Pioneer.
Captain Johns and Mr. Sinclair gave him deference as a King.
They " saved their face." by giving him. as if an advance on
account in the usual " Trust " system of the Ivory Trade, a
large amount of goods, that were at once placed in his canoes.
Mr. Sinclair also lightened the Pioneer by loading his canoes,
in which he kindly placed also my goods.
Isagi having been satisfied, there was assurance that the vessel
would not be molested in passing Ngumbe. The dove of peace
settled on the heads of all; and it drank to the safety, good-will
and prosperity of all, in many a glass of liquor. Isagi was in-
troduced to me; but, he deigned me slight notice, on being told
that I was a missionary. He had heard of missionaries, and he
was not interested in them ; they were poor; did not drink rum;
ENTERING THE OGOWE 29
had no presents to give in exchange for a female companion at
night; and did not buy ivory and rubber. In subsequent years,
on my boat-journeys, I stopped at Ngumbe ; but, I never had
any conversation with Isagi. There seemed an impassable bar
between us. He was tall, thin, silent, stern. His face seemed
marked with treachery and cruelty; and, I knew that his hands
were red with many a murder. After our formal salutation at
his town, he would disappear. I never knew whether it was
because of hatred or of fear. For, he was intensely supersti-
tious. He left me to the good-will of his women, of whom he
had many. But, they too, seemed constantly under fear of him.
He had few children. But, his imperious tribal government
could summon at will a thousand men for any purpose. Ermy
assured me that the demonstration had no reference to myself,
and he and my two young men left, in company with Isagi's
flotilla. Mr. Sinclair followed shortly after.
Besides the two firms doing a regular business up the river in
Galwa. there was a third man, Schmieder, acting for the great
German firm of Woermann, who lived on a little steam-yacht,
that could run anywhere over the shallows of the sand-banks,
and who wasted no goods in giving out " trust " on account.
In a somewhat free-booting way, he flitted from place to place,
buying up at first hand from the natives, ivory and rubber that
had been obtained by them, through " trusted " goods and which
really belonged to the two other firms. He came down river,
and anchored near us. On board with him was a young Ger-
man, who years later, achieved fame as a traveler to Timbuctoo.
I wrote letters to Mr. Bushnell. to my sister at Benita, and to
my sons in the U. S. And, the little steam-launch carried them
to Libreville.
The long delay in that low water and by those marshy banks
began to have a malarious effect. Even at the sea-side, I had
found the two rainy seasons, with their skies that cleared so
beautifully after the almost daily or nightly rain, were enliven-
ing to one's spirits, and better for one's health, than the long
dry season ; which, though cooler, was murky and obscured
with dull November-like clouds. Intermittent fever and diarrhea
laid hold of me. They were an old story. I knew what to
do for them. They are not fatal, though they may so far weaken.
as to make an open road for either of the two more dangerous
" African " fevers, a bilious remittent, or a globo-hematuric.
Such beautiful moonlights! I have reveled in the moonlights
30 MY OGOWE
of America, on the Ocean, at the sea-coast, under a variety of
surroundings. But, none of them surpass the sunsets and the
moonlights of the nights of the African Interior. It is difficult,
even now, to say just what it is that constitutes its superior
charm. Whatever it was, was mysterious in its fascination.
Perhaps something in the shade of coloring; perhaps a shim-
mering that may have been caused by the amount of moisture
diffused ; perhaps in the intense darkness of the preceding moon-
less nights ; perhaps in the fewer stars of the southern hemis-
phere. True, there was the faithful Bear, and Scorpio, and
Orion, and the Southern Cross ; but, then, there were large
patches of sky that were either starless, or marked by stars of
small magnitude.
During all those thirteen days, I went ashore to " King "
Njagu's only once. I sat in the shade of the Pioneer's
roofed quarter-deck ; enjoyed the afternoon sea-breeze, and cool
land wind at nights ; luxuriated in abundance of fresh fish ;
wrote a good deal ; and read a great deal. I felt a little ashamed
of the easy time I was having on the steamer, doing nothing
compared with the busy lives of my associates at the sea-coast
stations. Yet I was not doing nothing. I was learning
Mpongwe, for use up river, and making large notes of flying
pieces of information about the river. I might have gone ashore
oftener ; but I wished to avoid any questionings about my pro-
jects, from the Nkami people, as my objective point of location
lay even beyond Galwa.
Hurrah ! on September 23, we saw that our broken plate sign in
the river's bank was covered by a few inches of water. The river
was rising! Though no rains had conje to us, they had begun
to fall in a different latitude, where lay the Ogowe sources, and,
in their downward flow, the rising flood had reached us. Cap-
tain Johns, in a serio-comic spirit, put up a memorial to his long
trial, by nailing to two stout posts on the top of the bank, a long
board, on which was painted.
"JOHNS' REST, Pioneer, 1874."
The next day. September 24, the Pioneer backed out of her
cul-de-sac, dropped down the river a few hundred yards to get
below the point of the shallow, and then dared diagonally across
the river. The lead line constantly sounding, at " dead-slow "
speed, with what intensely quiet anxiety we felt ourselves just
scraping on the e(\^e of the long shallow opposite Chief Njagu's
town ! Then stuck for a little while ! Then off again ! Passed
ENTERING THE OGOWE 31
Chief Oiiwa-ombe's; startled a sleeping crocodile; stuck! Off
again; and drew a long breath of relief, as we emerged into a
wider channel. Of course, we anchored at night. We had
made only seven miles that day!
The river became broader, the channels more numerous and
perplexing, and all of them shallow. Such places are the chosen
resorts of hippopotami, who do not like deep water. Our prog-
ress had a new interest, in watching the animals that we alarmed ;
crocodiles dreaming on logs that they simulated ; hippos variously
submerged, often only nose, ears, and eyes on the surface.
Startled, the father would lift his massive head, open his enor-
mous mouth, and uttering a combined snort and bellow, called
his family to sink out of sight until the vessel had passed. Mon-
keys peered from the few trees (we had not left the papyrus en-
tirely behind us), chattered their indignation at the wheezing of
the engine, and leaped from tree to tree for a safer distance from
the guns of my fellow-passengers. How those hippos did bel-
low at night! Perhaps mystified by the lights of our anchored
vessel. Perhaps males fighting for supremacy !
One evening, borrowing the little boat, Mr. Percy, one of the
two young clerks, and I rowed out to do a little hunting for
fresh meat. There were kingfishers, but they are small prey; a
wild duck was wounded, but lost ; and we lay in ambush for two
hippopotami. We had been told that hippo-steak is good.
(I frequently, in later years, found it was true.) But, the ap-
parently wary animals did not come ashore ; to shoot them in the
water is waste, unless the hunter has time to go down stream
and meet the body, that, having sunk, will rise a few hours
later, at some point to which the current will carry it.
On Sunday, September 27, we had safely passed the shallows
fronting Ngumbe, the half-way house of our hundred and thirty
mile journey. My two Benitas again joined the Pioneer, and
we were met by Mr. Sinclair's clerk. Woodward, who had come
clown with canoes, into which to lighten the Pioneer's cargo, and
which, preceding us and punting instead of paddling, kept us
constantly informed of the water's depth.
We were next in Galwa territory. The river banks became
higher, heavily wooded ; and, in the distance, were blue hills.
Every hour's advance toward them brought us to deeper water,
straighter channels, and oftener the order of, " Full speed,
ahead!"
The whole panorama of the Ogowe was a most interesting
study. The river is remarkably varied in the aspect of its banks,
32 MY OGOWE
and the characteristics of its vegetation. The advance up the river
showed day by dav the constant rise in the land toward the in-
terior highland. In the first thirty miles the banks were lined
successively with mangroves, pandanus, and palms. Then, un-
til the seventy-mile limit, with papyrus, bulrush, palms and a few
forest trees. Next, until the hundredth mile, palms, forest trees,
high banks, and rocky points. Then, to the trading limit, at
which we were aiming, high rocky banks, and isolated hills.
Singularly, because of the delta, the mouth, which in most rivers
would be wide, was narrow. And it widened, instead of nar-
rowing as we ascended, until just beyond the delta's end, it was
a mile in width. It is thus splendidly described by Miss Mary
Kingsley. some twenty years later, on her journey with the Ger-
man steamer Move:
"The day soon grew dull, after the delusive manner of the dry
season. The climbing plants are finer here than I have ever
seen them. They form great veils and curtains between and
over the trees, often hanging so straight and flat, in stretches of
twenty to forty or so wide, and thirty to sixty or seventy feet
high, that it seems incredible that no human hand has trained
or clipped them into their perfect forms. Sometimes these cur-
tains are decorated with large bell-shaped, bright-colored flowers,
sometimes with delicate sprays of white blossoms. This forest
is beyond all my expectations of tropical luxuries and beauty;
and it is a thing of another world to the forest of the Upper
Calabar, which, beautiful as it is. is a sad dowdy to this. There
you certainly get a great sense of grimness and vastness: here,
you have an equal grimness and vastness, with the addition of
superb color. This forest is Cleopatra, to which Calabar is but
a Quaker. Not only does this forest depend on flowers for its
illumination; for, there are many kinds of trees having their
young shoots, crimson, brown, pink, and creamy yellow. Added
to this, there is also the relieving aspect of the prevailing fashion
among West African trees, of wearing the trunk white, witli
here and there upon it splashes of pale-pink lichens, and ver-
milion-red fungus, which alone is sufficient to prevent the great
mass of vegetation from being a monotony in green. All day
long we steam past ever-varying scenes of loveliness, whose
component parts are ever the same, yet the effect ever different.
Doubtless, it is wrong to call it a symphony; yet T know no other
word to describe the scenerv of the Ogowe. It is as full of life
and beaut v and passion as any symphony ever written, the parts
changing, interweaving and returning. There are lc'\t motifs
ENTERING THE OGOWE 33
here in it, too. See the papyrus ahead ; and you know when you
get abreast of it you will find the great forest sweeping away
in a bay-like curve behind it against the dull gray sky, the splen-
did columns of its cotton- and red-woods, looking like a facade
to some limitless, inchoate temple. Then again, there is that
stretch of sword-grass, looking as if it grew firmly on to the
bottom, so steady does it stand. But as the Move goes by, her
wash sets it undulating in waves across its broad acres of ex-
tent, showing it is only riding at anchor; and you know after a
grass-patch you will soon see a red, dwarf, clay cliff, with a vil-
lage perched on its top, and the inhabitants thereof, in their blue
and red cloths, standing by to shout and wave to the Move, or
legging it like lamp-lighters from the back streets and the plan-
tation, to the river frontage, to be in time to do so. And,
through all these changing phases, there is always the strain of
the vast forest, and the swift, deep, silent river." *
We had left the ocean-tide far behind us. Even at Ngumbe,
where we marked a rise of a few inches, the sweep of the sur-
face current was still down river. No anchored boat any longer
swung to the tide. Swifter and stronger against our bow came
the rapidly rising flood from the Interior. And, out of the lake
region, at Oranga, the triple bodies of Onanga-Ogemwe-Isanga,
rushed the water that had been pent up in them. The journey
now was exhilarating. We had left behind us the marshes.
Those hills, in the vistas opened by every turn in our now rapid
progress, looked life-giving! So many new birds! Flamin-
goes, with their streaks of red ! Stories of the rich meat of
manatee or dugong. (Which in later years I proved true. I
know no richer meat.) Here, also, natives repeated to me
stories that had been told me at Benita, of a strange monster,
one hundred feet in length, with a mouth somewhat like that of
a crocodile, and with scales, but without feet. I have never
been able to identify it with any known animal. For some of
the strange stories told by coast tribes, of monsters of the In-
terior, there have been found bases, on which native fancy had
built. For example, the tailed tribe of the Interior has been
proved to be people who wore skins of beasts, the tail being re-
tained as an ornament. But for the hoofed tribe I have heard
no explanation. Their existence was asserted by Benita people.
"Where?" "In the Interior." And here, on the Ogowe, the
assertion was the same, " In the Interior." But, I never found
what was the basis.
*" Travels in W. Africa," page 129.
34 MY OGOWE
Finally, in the morning of Thursday, October i, the Pioneer
reached its journey's end, before Mr. Sinclair's trading-house
at the Galwa town of Adali-na'nanga (Observed-of-the-
Tribes). All rivers are dotted with islands in their course to
the ocean. They div r ide their waters at each island's head, and
unite again at its lower end. But there conies a day when an
exceptional island is met with, around which the divided waters
never again unite; but, as they continue their flow to the sea,
they divide again, and subdivide in a network of streams that
finally reaches the sea through several distinct mouths. That
exceptional island always marks the beginning of the river's
delta. In the case of the Ogowe, its divisive island was 130
miles of the river's course from the sea. The Ogowe, coursing
from the east, there made a sudden turn northward. Dividing
at the head of a large island several miles in length, the " main "
branch swept to the left, the smaller branch taking its independ-
ent course to the right. At the island's head was the town of
Eyenano (the Seen). Three miles farther up, on the left bank,
a town of the Inenga tribe. It was by them that Mr. Walker
had been made captive. On a high ridge, to the right bank in
the river's angle, and at the head of the smaller branch, was
Adali-na-'nanga, the town of the Galwa king. One of the
women of his harem had devoted herself to the captive white
man. When the French rescued him, and authorized him to re-
main and set up a trade, he rewarded her by locating his trad-
ing-house at her town.
Mr. Sinclair with his clerk Mr. Woodward, and a German
house with its clerk and assistant, were the only white residents
in the river; though there were others who had been attracted,
in the interest of science or adventure, to this only open door
to the Interior from the equatorial portion of the west coast.
Two French gentlemen, the Marquis de Compeigne and M.
March, had lately returned from 400 miles farther up the river.
And Dr. Lenz, of Dr. Geisefeldt's German Kongo expedition.
That expedition had not been successful. Tt had lost two sets of
instruments and other equipments worth $10,000; one, on the
African steamer Nigrctia, wrecked at Sierra Leone, and another
on a steamer never heard from in the Bay of Biscay. Dr. (ieise-
feldt had gathered several good skeletons, specimens of the
gorilla, and numerous auriferous quartz and other stones, indi-
cating the geological presence of diamonds and other stones.
At the German house was also the Baron von Koppenfels, an
officer in the German Army, seeking independent adventure.
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ENTERING THE OGOWE 35
He had gathered $1500 worth of rare birds and skins and curi-
osities.
A mile down the smaller branch was Andende Creek and
Kangwe Hill (to appear later in this history).
A few years later the deposit of silt in front of Mr. Sinclair's
house (called " Aguma") so barred the approach of all vessels
that he removed it out into the main stream, a half mile below
the island's head, at a place since then called Lembarene ; which,
still later was occupied also by the French as their government
Paste.
I remained at Mr. Sinclair's ; and purposely did not go out to
visit in any of the villages. I feared that the Gal was might at-
tempt to detain me : so, I avoided communication with them.
From Mr. Sinclair and others, I acquainted myself with " the
lay of the land." Some ten miles farther up river was a large
affluent of the Ogowe, the Ngunye, on the left bank. Its
sources were from the south and west. Its upper region was the
locality of Du Chaillu's, " My Apinji Kingdom." When it joins
the Ogowe, the natives called the latter by a new name, the
Okanda (because it comes from an interior tribe, the Akanda).
But in this narrative I shall disregard that. It is a mistake; just
as if the Mississippi, above the junction with the Missouri,
should be called by some other name. That custom, of calling
different parts of a river by different names, exists all across the
continent, and has given travelers trouble. It was one of the
confusing causes that were constantly starting up in Dr. Living-
stone's way, in his search for the sources of the Nile.
How glad I was to reach an end, though it was not really my
objective point, and though I at once met several trying prob-
lems. Mr. Walker had prejudiced me against the Galwa people.
I think he had some reason (though I now believe, not sufficient)
for his dislike of them. But there was, to me, good reason why
I avoided making acquaintance with them just at that time.
Galwa is a very near dialect of Mpongwe. which language I did
not know. I spoke Benga fluently. Air. Walker had told me
that, at a place. Mbomi, some thirty miles farther up river
from Mr. Sinclair's, was the Okota tribe, whose dialect was cog-
nate with Benga. I would make my location there. And lest
in the monopolistic spirit, the Galwa, who had so recently been
relieved of its exercise against themselves by Orungu and
Nkami, should attempt to exercise it on me against the Okota
and Bakele. I sought no acquaintance with them, secluding my-
self in Air. Sinclair's house.
36 MY OGOVVE
He entered into my plans, and promised to further my journey
to Mbomi. But, he was just then overwhelmed with business.
A dozen of his Mpongwe and Nkami native traders had been
lying" there for two weeks, awaiting the Pioneer's coming, with
three hundred of their crews, idle, quarrelsome, and the entire
crowd fed by him daily, but rendering no service to him. He
was anxious to get rid of them, by dividing to these traders their
promised share of the Pioneer's goods. He was having an
hourly battle with the native cupidity that grasped for more than
had been promised. And I was having a contest, almost every
hour of the day and night, with the chigoes ! They were a new
pest. Africa had possessed a variety of insect pests, especially of
the ant kind. But, in 1872, a vessel sailed from Central America,
to St. Paul de Loanda, having sand as ballast. Portuguese
law forbidding this to be cast into the harbor, it was dumped
ashore. The American chigoes (miscalled "jiggers") in that
sand have since then spread over the entire African continent !
I had never seen or known of chigoes. On my return to Africa
in 1874, I heard much of them; but during the three months
at Libreville and Benita. under good sanitation, I was not an-
noyed much by them. They may attack any part of the body,
but preferably one's feet, particularly the toes, especially around
the quick. The little female, a small red flea, half as large as
a pin-head, burrowing under the skin, produces a hundred eggs
in a sac as large as a pea. If allowed to remain, these will
hatch and make an ulcer, resulting sometimes in the loss of the
toe. Experience taught us that the insect, or its sac, must be
extracted at once and crushed or burned. Rains destroy the
chigoe: but, the long dry season (June to September) had
favored their production. The Galwas, to whom they were
new, in extracting the sac, threw it on the ground, and its eggs
hatched there. The crowd around Mr. Sinclair's house were
more reckless in their habits than they were in their own villages ;
and, the place had become very unsanitary. Mr. Sinclair, hos-
pitable as he was, had, as the only space he could offer me for a
bedstead, the top of the counter in his shop. T sat there in ter-
ror of those hateful insects. Every hour of the day T removed
my shoes and socks, to pick off the frightful invaders, whom no
amount of cleanliness, nor solidity of shoe could exclude. And,
at night, I awoke almost every hour to rub on kerosene as a
slight deterrent. In previous years, on my Benita journeys, in
affiliating with the natives in their huts, and sleeping on their
bedsteads (but carrying my own little pillow), I had endured.
ENTERING THE OGOWE 37
but could not control, the bedbugs; with great care I had en-
tirely escaped the prevalent head lice; only occasionally had I
contracted the as prevalent body lice (but, they were readily re-
moved). But here no amount of care, of sanitation, or cleanli-
ness, could save me from this little monster. I shuddered with
horror, not at its itching bite, but at the very thought of a per-
sistent parasite on my body!
I had met with fever, with danger from poison, drowning,
wild beasts, affliction, sorrow, trial, native daggers, and human
treachery. None of these things had moved me from my devo-
tion to Africa and missionary duty. But, after all these years, I
confess, that, for the first and only time in my entire African life,
the thought did then come to me : " I can not endure this !
I will give up the work, and go back to the United States ! "
But, relief came. The blessed rains came ! The pests were de-
stroyed, only enough surviving for reproduction the next year.
Before that came I found myself in less unsanitary surround-
ings, and had learned better how either to check somewhat the
chigoe's advance, or, more skilfully and promptly to extract it.
I never succeeded in doing so without drawing blood; and that
left a small wound. In the first year's invasion, I had daily seen
men, women, and children, the latter with tears rolling down their
cheeks, digging from their feet the pests that had burrowed there.
But the children, having more frequent practice, than I, on their
own bare feet, especially the girls, became very skilful in blood-
less extraction. In later years I came to depend on them and
their services as the last act of the day before retiring to bed.
For the first time in my life I felt what it was to be on the last
verge of civilization. At dinner, for a welcome to the Pioneer,
Mr. Sinclair invited his few white neighbors to meet Captain
Johns. With whom, besides himself, his clerk Woodward, the
young man Percy, and myself, there were Captain Stone, an
Englishman, head of a rival firm, and his guest, the German
Baron von Koppenfels. The Baron was a powerfully built man,
an adventurer seeking excitement in hunting. He had found it
one day, on a Nkami prairie, when a wild ox charged him at
close quarters. Without his gun. he stood still, and, as the fierce
beast plunged its lowered horns at him, he seized them, and, under
the tremendous force of necessity, slowly and steadily twisted the
beast's neck until it broke (as is related to have been done by a
gladiator in a Roman amphitheater).
We were thus, at the table, seven white men. On the Pioneer
also were its mate and engineer and a Mr. Dixon temporarily left
3 8 MY OGOWE
in charge. Somewhere on the river were Schmieder and another
man. In all, only twelve white men in the entire course of the
river. But, when the Pioneer should leave, there would be only
nine, of whom no more than three would be in the same house-
hold. And, for me, going - to the Beyond, to the east, there
would be only myself, and Superstition, and Bakele and cannibal
Fan we.*
As I deliberately avoided the Galwa, and Mr. Sinclair was
very busy trying to get his traders off to their places, there was
much of the time that I was alone. Thinking of the future made
me anxious. Thinking of the past made me sad. I thought I
had conquered homesickness. But. familiar home tunes played
on a hand-organ, one evening, made me feel that there was still
much in me that I had not entirely controlled.
The Pioneer left on Monday, October 5, for its return to the
seaside, taking with it a large mail I had written. She would
have no trouble with shallows. The rains had come, and the
river was rising very rapidly. Mr. Sinclair kindly gave me the
benefit of his experience with the river tribes, as to customs,
prices, etc. But, living in narrow quarters was painfully accentu-
ating a local eczema which was irritating me. I had suffered
with it chronically years before, at Benita. It and boils were
two of the alternatives I had accepted as exemption from African
fever. Both disappeared during my furlough of i872-'73 in
the United States. There, a doctor, who had ostracized him-
self from the " regular " profession, because of his making pro-
prietary a cure he had discovered for certain diseases, gave me
an eczema ointment to use in the future. I had no faith in it.
but, having no other relief, I tried it at Mr. Sinclair's. Its first
application, one night, was torture endurable for only fifteen min-
utes; next night, I was able to endure it for thirty minutes; and,
the third night, for one hour. The fourth day. the eruption was
gone, and my skin smooth and healthful.
The sunsets were incomparably beautiful, under the clear air
of the rainy season ; far surpassing any I had seen on the sea-
coast. In the distance south-eastward were the blue hills of the
river Xgunye ; in the middle distance the green of the forest;
and, in the foreground, an orange sheen on the sands on the
* This word has several forms of spelling. At the sea-coast, the Bengas
called it, Pa-ngwe ; the Mpongwe, Mpanwe; Du Chailhi had written it,
Fan (with the French nasal ending); l)e Brazza wrote it. Pahonin ; the
tribe itself certainly, with an explosive sound, said Fang, though there
seemed to my ear also an elusive final W, like Pfangw. I compromise
on the form, Fanwe.
ENTERING THE OGOWE 39
beach and islands. The views of the entire river had been very-
line up to that Aguma Point; but, Mr. Sinclair promised me
something magnificent in the lakes. He had, as far as he was
able, put me so at home in his " factory," that I did not feel as
lonely as I had expected. He took such a hearty interest in my
project that he actually offered to go with me in my selection of
a site, instead of my hiring a boat and going alone. He in-
formed me that the Okota people had left Mbomi; and he ad-
vised me to settle among the Bakele who were now occupying
that place. Everything seemed favorable; only, I still feared
that some jealousy might be aroused among the Galwa, against
my going to the Bakele. I felt there was need of prudence and
caution. Though 130 miles from the sea, in the course of the
river (ninety in direct line) the afternoon sea breeze reached
there, and the nights were cool. But mosquitoes were plentiful,
and chigoes fearful. Mr. Sinclair insisted on my being his
guest, and would make no charge for entertainment, but, 1 had
my own employee, Ingumu, as washman.
Mr. Sinclair assisted me in the purchase of a canoe, and in the
hiring of three Galwas. I mention their names, as they re-
mained in my service several years: they were, Alendeginye,
Oraniga, and Aveya. Galwa canoes were flat-bottomed, their
sides straightly perpendicular as of a box, the pointed bow and
stern not elevated much above the level of the sides. They were
very "cranky." In smooth water they were safe; but, before
waves raised by a strong wind, they had no buoyancy.
The Okota tribe, in disappearing from Mbomi, instead of ad-
vancing seaward, as is the ambition of almost all inland tribes,
had retired interior ward. Of the Akele tribe who were occupy-
ing the deserted site, I knew nothing, except that I remembered
a description given of their dialect by the accomplished philolo-
gist, Rev. Ira M. Preston. He said, " Take the Benga, chop off
its final syllable, and you have a Fafiwe vocabulary. Then take
that same Benga, add to it a syllable, and you have the Dikele
vocabulary." This, I have since proved, in my own acquisition
of those dialects, to be sufficiently descriptive, as an epigram.
So, still anxious to utilize my knowledge of Benga, I decided to
locate among the Bakele people. Mr. Sinclair kindly directed
one of his Mpongwe traders, Agaia, who could speak English,
and who was located near the village of an Akele chief, Kasa,
adjoining Mbomi, to escort me on my journey thither.
CHAPTER III
PROSPECTING
1 WAITED at Aguma for the company of the promised es-
cort, while Mr. Sinclair was dismissing his Nkami sub-
traders to their " factories " up the rivers and down to
the lakes. The one who was going up river with me, Agaia, I
had known at Benita, he having been an employee of the Sierra
Leone negro trader Hamilton, in 1870. So, my two Kombe
young men affiliated with him, at once, and he was very helpful
to me.
Finally, in the afternoon of Monday, October 12, the first day
of the fortieth year of my life, with my own canoe, my five
crew, and a portion of my supply of provisions and goods, es-
corted by Agaia and his five canoes laden with goods, and with
his sixty men, with their guns firing, flags flying, and shouts of
songs, I started on the second stretch of my Ogowe journey.
I had no direction of the route, though I made careful notes, for
my own future travels. Nor had I any authority. I allowed
my own crew lazily to follow Agaia's people, in the vigor of
their hilarity that left little strength to be applied to their
paddles. We had gone only a few miles when the sun set in an
unusually magnificent array of color, and, we stopped for the
night on a sand-bar. Some of Agaia's people went off to an
adjacent Inenga village, where they could share in the usual
evening dance in the village street. After a supper of sardines
and crackers, rain fell heavily. I kept most of it off by crouch-
ing under my enormous umbrella, where also I gathered my per-
ishable treasures and bedding. I slept tolerably well, with no
chigoes and but few mosquitoes, but with rain, thunder and
lightning, and with the snorting and bellowing hippos in the ad-
jacent shallows, angry at our invasion of their sleeping ground.
The next morning an early start was made, and the mouth of the
Ngiinye, only ten miles from the Aguma " factory " * was
* This word, " factory," was the common one used in trade, all along
the entire coast. Tt meant the house of the trader or " factor." But, lest
it be misunderstood for a manufactory, I shall, in this history use "trad-
ing-house."
40
PROSPECTING 41
passed. Much of the day was wasted by Agaia's men in their
slow paddling, smoking, animated discussions, and long narra-
tions.
In my subsequent government of my own crews, while I en-
couraged them to sing, and did not forbid conversation, I re-
quired that the tongue's motion should not be a substitute for
that of the paddle. The journey would have been very tiresome,
had I not been busy with pencil and paper, making charts of the
routes, the villages, etc., etc.
My Kombe, Mediko, did well in cooking. In the mornings,
I ate cracked wheat (a gift of my dear mother!) and tea (from
Miss Jones of the Mission). Then, in the middle of the day, a
hearty meal of plantains and rice. At night, a slight repast of
crackers and molasses. Often, I omitted the evening meal; the
one hearty meal a day satisfied an appetite that had no compan-
ionship to excite it. By sunset we had made only about twelve
miles. Heavy rain was coming. To escape the rough waves of
a storm, the canoes ran into a little creek, where was neither time
nor place to build a fire. There was passed a most uncomfort-
able night. The big umbrella kept away rain pretty well from
my body; but the mosquito net over it did not keep out the in-
sects. I tried to get some comfort out of a mouth-organ.
By the third day the crews awoke to the necessity of work.
But, the current of the stream was strong, making a journey up
stream, long; down it, very quick. And many stops were
made on the way. At a certain " head-man's," Avyake, he made
me a present of a chicken, and promised me a goat, which, I told
him I would claim and eat when I should make him a future
visit. At " King " Ondene's, I was accorded quite a reception
to the Akele tribe. He seemed proud of the distinction of my
visit. He gave me a chicken, which I cooked at once. He was
very curious and inquisitive. He wanted to see my toes, won-
dering that chigoes could invade shoes ; and wanted to taste my
syrup of limes and other foreign articles. A great dance was
going on, for the prevention of witch influence. I liked the
man's mixture of dignity and friendly interest. Resuming the
journey, I observed attractive mission-sites. The banks of the
Ogowe had become continuously elevated, higher above the river-
level than were the Mbade and Bolondo houses, at Benita, above
the sea-level. With all these delays, our flotilla did not make
more than eight miles that day. Agaia reached the village ad-
joining Kasa's. about twenty-five miles from Adali-na-'nanga,
only at sunset, in a drenching rain.
42 MY OGOWE
The next day, October 15, was a rainy day, but I was busy
having clothing dried in the hut, and boxes inspected lest their
contents had been wet in the canoe. Kasa came to see me;
and I specifically acknowledged his jurisdiction, and put myself
and people under his care. I told him I would look to him to
assist me in selecting a site, as I intended to build in his vicinity,
if I found conditions satisfactory. He made me a present of a
goat, a bunch of plantains, and a half bushel of ground-nuts. I
was pleased with him. Though he was not as dignified as King
Ondene, I thought him more available. I at once took with him
the position of telling hjm what I wanted, and of objecting to
what I disliked, as I would to a friend. He was very intelligent,
and with some civilized ideas that agreeably surprised me. Our
friendship continued during his life. But, his heathenism was
deep, and his superstitions, as I became better acquainted with
him, were amazingly strong.
He took me from Agaia's village, and established me and my
belongings in a large room of his own bamboo house, my room
door opening into the public reception room, where were people
coming and going or lounging all day long. In the evening, as
we all sat conversing in that room, there occurred one of the
usual demonstrations of hospitality given to all visitors of dis-
tinction, and especially to white men. A man approached me
smiling, and leading a woman, who looked at me with a graceful
expectancy. I inquired, what was the matter? He asked me
for a glass of rum ( !) and said, " I have brought this woman
to be your wife." This experience was not a new one. But,
it never was repeated in the same region. On the first occasion,
years before, I had answered indignantly. But, without lower-
ing any of my own standards or ideals, I had learned to look at
all questions of ethics, and even of morals, from the native's
point of view. Advancing on that line, I had met receptivity.
Standing thus on common ground, as a friend, I found that I had
more influence in explaining my standard, than if I had attacked
his, as an enemy. As to the women; I had learned that their
approach, as on this occasion, was not as the brazen wantons of
civilization. There was no immodesty in manner. And, in her
thought, there was for me, the duty of hospitality (so highly
held in all eastern countries) and, for herself, the distinction
of alliance with a great white man. The sin, in these cases, was
( 1 ) , on the part of the white man, who, in accepting, lowered
his own standards; (2), and, on the part of the native man, who
expected to obtain pay for the woman's dishonor. I could hold
PROSPECTING 43
my Christian position, without being discourteous to the woman.
I told Kasa, in a few words; and he publicly warned that mis-
sionaries were not to be thus approached.
He then paraded before me his own twenty-six women, and
placed me under the special care of his chief one, or " queen,"
ftwanaja, who was to see that provisions were to be regularly
supplied to me (of course, I would buy them ). She was a lady-
like woman, of unusual strength and amiability of character.
Our friendship continued for years.
I was awakened, on the 16th, by the ringing of a witch-doc-
tor's bell. There was a parade of a grotesquely clad company of
men and women searching for the witch or wizard who had been
causing some troubles in the villages.
Kasa wanted to see all my curiosities. Among other treas-
ures. I put on my dressing-gown (as a kingly robe!) and played
on my flute and accordeon, and explained the workings of my
sixteen-repeater Winchester rifle. That was a wonder! That
a gun could " talk ten times," without stopping to reload, fasci-
nated the crowd. But, Kasa, spurred in pride for his own pos-
sessions, told me he had that which could make my rifle harm-
less. He stepped into an inner room, and emerged with a heavy
string of fetish-charms contained in a gazelle-horn, shells, genet
skins, etc. Adjusting them around his neck and shoulders, he
said that he was invulnerable to any spear or gun or other weapon
of man or beast. He offered to stand as a mark for my Win-
chester ! Thinking that he was only boasting, I accepted the
challenge. He stood erect. I paced off about thirty feet, and
threw a cartridge from the magazine into the barrel. The click
was distinctly heard. I cocked the trigger. Its click too was
heard ; but he did not flinch. I deliberately aimed at him.
Still he did not flinch. His people were frightened, but
he was not. He was perfectly sure of his invulnerability! I
desisted, feeling I had been worsted. But. two years later when
he died, gored by the tusks of a wounded elephant, I reminded
his people of the useless fetishes.
I was not in want. I scarcely began on my own provisions.
At first, Kasa fed me : I bought only for my people. We all
had as much as we could eat. A goat was killed every day.
There was a good-sized population. In his town were three hun-
dred people ; and. in adjacent villages, one thousand. I talked
in Benga to Mediko, who then spoke in Mpongwe to one of the
Galwas, who repeated in Dikele. But, I felt that I would soon
be able to speak Dikele myself, if I remained there; for, it re-
44 MY OGOWE
sembled Benga somewhat. I was very well. I did not even
think of fever, and had no occasion to use quinine. My plan
was to spend a week each with three others of the principal men
in that district, while surveying 1 sites.
Kasa was to take me to examine desirable building sites.
But, first, I thought I would go alone, and see what there was at
Mbomi, about a mile distant. On the way, passed the mouths of
two small creeks, Little Isango and Big Isango, whose sources,
I was told, joined, in the rainy season, with the Mbomi. These
former Okota sites were now occupied by Bakele. I was disap-
pointed in the situation ; the land lay too low ; and the interior
" lake," of which Mr. Walker had told me, amounted to nothing.
I was pleased, at another village, Iseme's, that the children
seemed less afraid of the white man than did some of the coast
tribes. There was there a very attentive little boy, and a very
pretty little girl, Awethe. I returned to Kasa's, and was to go
to another village, Ntambi's, to eat with him and Kasa. There
was plenty of goat-meat and plantains. Even after the long in-
terval to the present time, and tasting every variety of vegetable,
I know none that I enjoy more than boiled ripe plantains.
On the long way from the river's mouth, and during the de-
lays, whatever time or labor were spent on physical necessities
or plans, uppermost was my interest in my distinctive missionary
work of teaching or telling of the Gospel. There had been few
opportunities for formal preaching. But, daily, when ashore,
if there were no gatherings of curious villagers, I had at least
the five members of my own household, with whom to read or
sing in Benga, or Mpongwe. or Dikele. I had the printed Gos-
pels in all three dialects ; the latter two, though I could not speak
them, were easy to read. And, I was making a daily effort to
talk, however, brokenly, in Dikele. Little Awethe came often to
see me. The child's prattle was a far better school in which to
learn than would have been any adult's formal teaching. That
also had been my experience in my acquisition of Benga. I
am convinced that it is the only best mode of language acquisi-
tion. The grammar and the critical teacher have their place
later.
On Sunday, October 18, after breakfast, I told Kasa to call
together his people; and I held a little meeting. I spoke in
Benga to my Benita man Mediko; he, knowing also Mpongwe
interpreted in it to Agaia, who, knowing Dikele spoke in that
dialect. Certainly, a confusion of tongues! From an English
brain in Benga, through a Kombe brain in Mpongwe, and then
PROSPECTING 45
through a Mpongwe brain into Dikele! I do not know how
true or faithful the interpreters were. But, God's use of means
is wonderful! Even by the mouth of babes! Perhaps I started
on too high a plane. For, after I had ceased speaking, I found
that my Bakele audience had no proper idea even of my char-
acter or object of my coming. They knew of white men only as
traders. They asked me for drinks of rum; and wished to be
amused with an exhibition of my rifle. I promised to amuse
them if they would come on another day; and spent some time
in trying to explain to them the Sabbath. To people who had
neither measure of or division of time (except the new moon),
and who were " resting " every day, the call for physical rest
did not appeal. And, it was a long day off, with " precept upon
precept," until they began to appreciate the spiritual side.
Little Awethe came again in the afternoon. People were sur-
prised that not only could I recognize her from other children,
but remember and correctly speak her name.
The day had many confusions. I was told that Kasa had cut
one of his women, in anger at her accidentally having broken a
jug. In the common use of other people's property in a village
community, one of Kasa's men " borrowed " my canoe without
asking for it. I made my protest to Kasa. willing to be helpful,
but declining to be appropriated as a convenience. I felt lonely
in the latter part of the day, thinking of loved ones far away, as
I looked on family gifts: my mother's tin of cracked wheat and
bottle of horseradish : slippers from cousin Anna How and from
Mr. Patten ; Miss Jones' covered tins : and jars of good things
from Rev. Dr. Allen's Old Pine Street Church, Philadelphia.
I began to be restive at Kasa's vacillations. At times, ex-
tremely demonstrative ; at others, apparently indifferent, almost
to discourtesy. At times, liberal in gifts of food; and then
avaricious in asking returns. I knew very well that very few
natives gave anything without expectation of a return. That I
had accepted, along with my other adaptations of native cus-
toms. But, I expected that there should be a minimum interval
of one day between the two transactions. And, my " return "
was always much more in pecuniary value than if I had been
buying the " gift " outright. Sometimes their avarice so over-
came them that, a native having made me a pleasant visit and
chat, and laying at my feet a " gift." on leaving, would beg for
some small favor. In such cases. I instantly returned the gift,
refusing either to accept or buy it.
Kasa had planned a gorilla-hunt. I offered to join him with
46 MY OGOVVE
my Winchester. Perhaps I showed too much interest, as if the
excursion was for my sake. Shortly before we were to start,
he suddenly asked what pay he and one of his men were to re-
ceive! I declined to pay. or to have anything farther to do with
the hunt. And it was abandoned. He went off, without noti-
fying" me. to visit King Ondene. On his return. I took no
notice of him. For. during his absence, there had arrived, by
Schmieder's little steam-launch, my first Ogowe mail ! I shared
the joy of my letters with my two civilized Benita men. And.
Giief Mabe. from Mbomi, had come to see me with some of his
people, apparently interested in my missionary talk. And. little
Awethe asked me to go and see her father, in Ntambi's village.
Kasa had been fluent in promises to show me sites, from which
I could select one for building. He had, indeed, taken me to
quite a number of places: but. all of them were unsatisfactory.
My experience at Benita had impressed on me that the presence
of people was not the first requisite in a site. Rather. I wished
at least a quarter of a mile between my house and the noisy
native village. They would be sure to come to me. and I could
visit them. So. T required (i). a tract of at the very least,
twenty acres: (2) not in proximity to a village: (3) a landing-
place on the river, under my sole control: (4) a spring, or fresh-
water brook, on mission property, and not to be used in common
with others. None of Kasa's sites had anv one of the requi-
sites. He promised to show me others. Tired of his delays
(he evidently wished me to remain in his village). I decided
1o visit Mbomi again. He objected strongly. But. T would not
listen: being indignant at him. T went to Mbomi for several
days, where Mabe was quite attentive. He sent a young man
to escort me up the creek. T saw nothing to suit me as a build-
ing-site, though the day's canoe-travel was very interesting.
After the night's rain, the day was clear and bright and cool.
It was a luxury to lie back in the canoe, as it sped among t lie
cool shadows, under the tree branches and overhanging vines and
flowers. T saw. for the first time, a real native suspension-
bridge over the creek, made of strong vines strung from trees on
each side, guyed with other vines, with a footpath of sticks tied
like the rungs of a ladder, and with stretched vines for a hand-
railing. Mabe also inquired whether positively T would come
back to Akele after my expected return to Gaboon tor annual
meetings, and promised to find me just such a site as T had de-
scribed with requisites. Then, he went away in a large canoe
with eighteen men and women, to talk a " palaver " at the village
PROSPECTING 47
of Anyambe-jena (God sees), several miles down river, leaving
me to the care of his son, who neglected me. So, I left Mabe's,
and went to another's, Iseme, who professed to be very anxious
have me settle near him. I was not deceived by these profes-
sions; but, I was willing to see what he had to show me. At
another village, Mboko's, I had an admirable opportunity of il-
lustrating to the people the love of Christ in dying for sinners.
I had not, in the Ogowe, found, among my few words, enough
to express this. In his village were three chained prisoners, who
were to be killed. I inquired of Mboko whether, if some friend
of theirs would come and ask to be chained in the prisoner's
place, and the prisoners freed, would he be willing? He curtly
interrupted me, and said there was " no use talking about such
a thing." Again, I asked him to consider: Did no one have a
friend with love so great as to be willing to die for another?
" No! people don't do so! " I passionately told him that I knew
that scarcely would " people " do so, but that the Son of God did
just that very way for him and me!
The body of a kind of antelope I had not before seen, caught
in a pitfall, was brought into the village. It was a large red-
colored one. Its name, " njivo," attracted me; for it was the
name of a young Mpongwe woman, a Baraka schoolgirl, one of
two sisters, who, in their natural endowments, their education,
their civilization, and their Christianity, for many years contrib-
uted much to my enjoyment of native society, at first in Libre-
ville and, later in the Ogowe. Their names will reappear in this
history. They are both dead now.
One of those days, at Mabe's, some of his women came to me
indignantly complaining against one of my Galwa men, who, they
said, had spied on them while they were washing themselves in
the creek. If they had demanded a fine, I might have suspected
it was a case of blackmail. But. I preferred to believe in the wo-
men's virtue. I knew that most white men said that the native
women had no virtue that was not purchaseable. And I was
aware of the. to civilized standards, strange willingness of the
women to be the temporary wife of the village guest. But. I
knew also that there was an explanation of that which still left
room for a degree of virtue. Nations differ in their definition of
virtue.
At Iseme's, my cook prepared a chicken in a, to me, unusual
manner. After the feathers had been plucked, he slit the skin
over the breast, and readily skinned the entire fowl by simply
turning it out of its skin, as one would slip out of one's coat.
48 MY OGOWE
Then, cutting all the meat from the bones, and chopping it small.
with condiments, he stuffed the meat back into the skin of the
body, wings, and legs; and, then roasted it, as any other chicken
is usually roasted. It was attractive eating, free from bones.
It was called, " a la Ashantee." having been invented by a Fanti
cook of Accra, on the Gold Coast.
My living, not only in a native hut, but also in a village itself,
revealed to me many things in customs, beliefs, and superstitions,
that I could not have otherwise learned. I had known that
sometimes natives refused to eat certain foods, for other reason
than personal dislike. But, I did not know what was that rea-
son. On October 27. I discovered it. My crew had been work-
ing faithfully; I liked to feed them well. But that day I had
only a small chicken. Taking my own share. I divided the re-
mainder among the five. This made only a small ration ; but. it
was better than nothing. They all took the ration, except Ora-
niga. Thinking that his quiet neglect arose from dissatisfaction,
I was about to rebuke him ; but, the others told me that chicken
was his " orunda." On every child is laid, by the fetish-doctor,
a prohibition of some article of food, which, thenceforward, is
sacred to the guardian-spirit of the child's life. The orunda or
" taboo" is sacredly kept by the African, even if hungry.
I continued my investigation of sites, several of which were
shown me by Iseme : and to others I went, on independent trips
with my crew. But none of them were satisfactorv. On Octo-
ber 29. I returned to Kasa's. He was away ; but. Shvanaja took
good care of me. Dissatisfied with the proximity to villages, of
the many sites that had been shown me. I took one of Kasa's
young men, and followed a footpath, back from, but parallel
with the river, through a deserted village site of a man Ibanyi.
and on down river a mile almost to Kakamba's, being barred from
proceeding farther by the Mbilye Creek. I was pleased. The
trader ReXjage interpreted for me at evening prayers. Then. I
recreated myself and amused the people with my flute. Rats
were numerous in the huts; destructive and annoying. They of-
ten gnawed at the people's feet : but for great personal cleanliness.
they would have attacked mine. They did not; but, they often
awoke me, by their running over my body.
Because I had been so pleased with the abandoned site of
Ibanyi's village. T went to him to sound him as to whether he
would be willing to remove, in order to give me the desired larger
area. He promptly assented. But. T had come to suspect all
those chiefs, from Ondene down, of duplicity, and was on the
PROSPECTING 49
lookout for a subsequent revelation of some selfish proposition.
All this was unpleasant: but, it was natural, and not unknown
in dealings among civilized circles. So, I kept up at least the
form of friendship; for, undeniably, I was safe, and was treated
with kindness and respect by their people. I played with them ;
the men and women had the curiosity of children to see my four-
bladed knife, a combination tool-knife, syringe, flute, and a few
fire-crackers. And I was interested to see, among their boys'
plays, the existence of a pop-gun; they using a hollow reed and
slices of plantain, just as I, when a child, had used a quill and
slices of potato.
A month had passed; and though it had been usefully spent in
learning Dikele, and in obtaining an intimate knowledge of na-
tive customs, I was no nearer settling the question where my
house should be, except that I had been at many places where it
would not be. I was under no obligation to Kasa. I had not
promised to live with him. I had not said even that I would
live in the limits of the Akele tribe. So, on November 2, I left
Kasa's, being given many good-by gifts, especially by the young
traders (of other tribes). And I went down river to King
Ondefie's. He seemed pleased to see me ; but, he gave me very
uncomfortable quarters: sheep, on the other side of the thin bam-
boo wall, all night butting against it. in their fight with mos-
quitoes ; and restless chickens on the other side of the wall at my
head. I told him that I had come for him to show me the sites
he had promised a month before. He sarcastically denied hav-
ing made any such promise ! And. added. " I could not have
done so, being a man of no power. Carry no report of me to the
sea. Kasa and the others are great. Do not even name me,
etc." I replied. "I had heard otherwise: that you were great.
If it were not that you were king. I would not have come here
vesterday." My diplomacy delighted him : and. lie at once became
cordial, but not familiar as Kasa. He was afraid of the rifle.
He took me to adjacent villages, where my coming was welcomed
with gifts of eggs and chickens. And. at evening-prayer, an
English-speaking Mpongwe trader, whose wife had been taught
in our Baraka school, interpreted for me. The next day we vis-
ited sites near Mbilye Creek. Of the thirteen eggs given me.
only two were good ! With those two, my cook made some
pancakes. Another broken sleep in my poor hut : dogs were
coming in, hunting scraps of food.
I left Ondefie's, and came on down river a few miles to Chief
Avyake. He was good-natured; but, his people were overrun
50 MY OGOWE
with cupidity. In order to make a basis of acquaintance and
possible friendship, I had a conversation with him and one of
his women, Bya-utata, who, to my surprise, could speak Benga.
Among other of my questions to him were. " Is this woman vour
wife? " " Is she an Akele? " " Where did she learn Benga? "
" You say you have ten wives? " " But no children? " " I had
only one wife, and yet I had three children! " etc., etc. All this
he was so pleased with, that, to every visitor who came in from
adjacent villages, he repeated the whole conversation over and
over. At the evening meeting, when I was trying to impress
on them the difference between my object and that of the traders,
I remembered the unpleasant incident at Kasa's. So, I said that
missionaries did not take other men's wives ; and added that my
bed was for myself alone. One of the women promptly ejac-
ulated, " And for me too! " When I expressed my displeasure
at her boldness, all the company laughed, as if it was a good
joke.
That first day's unpleasant impression of the village and its
people was removed later. I was given information of the in-
terior of the Ogowe. which, in later years. I proved to be correct.
The people, especially women and children, became interested
and helpful in teaching me Dikele. I was told much of the
Dwarfs, whom they called " Abange " and " Akowa." (I was
somewhat amused some twenty years later, to find these Dwarfs
spoken of, in another part of the mission, as new and unknown !)
Avyake showed me building sites. The people seemed ashamed
of their first demonstrations of covetousness ; so. that, when a
canoe came with plantains to sell, and the strangers set out the
proper number of bunches, but some of them small. Avyake's
women quietly substituted larger ones. And. when I was tak-
ing a small stool on which to sit, they brought a better one.
Not all those women were stolid. Bya-utata looked so sadly,
and her face varied with different expressions of her thoughts,
as she told me she longed to know books, and doubted whether
women, or other than children, could acquire the benefits of the
mission I intended to bring.
On Sunday. Avyake, though. I think, he understood but little
of the Truth, was all day repeating to visitors, tbc words my in-
terpreter had spoken in the morning. And. at night, out in the
street under the stars, we tried to chat, with Bya-utata's aid.
about my Dikele words; about what I had said in the morning:
about elephants; and about hymns: and they wanted me to go
PROSPECTING 51
on singing " until the Morning-star failed/' i. e., until sun-
rise!
The next day I was busy writing several letters to relatives
in the. United States. Bya-utata sat by me all the while, fas-
cinated with the mystery of the little black marks that could
talk to my people far away! Tired with the stooping over the
writing-table on my knees, I stretched myself by the side of the
house on the bare ground ; and she thoughtfully brought me a
native pillow.
The river tribes, rated in the importance estimated by them-
selves (a rate assented to pretty generally by the traders) stood
in this order: Orungu, Nkami, Inenga, Ajumba, Galwa, Akele.
The prominence that the Galwa had obtained in foreign esti-
mate was not at all due to any nobility of character, but solely
to their strategic position at the head of the delta. In my search
for a mission site, I disregarded the Inenga ; they were so very
few. Somewhat dissatisfied with the Bakele, I thought it well
in order to make an exhaustive topographical report to the mis-
sion, to visit the Ajumba region. It lay on the seaward course
of the smaller division of the Ogowe, and, in its course down the
delta, it was joined by a stream from a lake, Azingo ; beyond
which lay an overland path across an elevated watershed, to the
banks of the Rembwe, an affluent of the Gaboon river. So, I de-
termined to go from Avyake's down to the Aguma H. & C.
House, and thence to Lake Azingo.
Leaving Avyake's on November 10, I stopped, on the way, at
a village of Anyambe-jena. Evidently, the Akele chiefs were be-
coming jealous of each other, each desirous that the (pecuniary)
benefit of the presence of the missionary should be given to their
own limited district. I had heard that he had threatened harm
to me, if I finally should locate beyond him. (The sea-coast mo-
nopoly idea!) When such threats were made by any native
against another, the latter would carefully avoid the village of
the former. But my practice had been from Benita days to at
once seek occasion for making a journey to the village whence
came the threat. Conscious of having done no wrong, either
my audacity, or a clear explanation, always strengthened im-
position, and disarmed my (supposed) enemy.
I gave Anyambe-jena a chance to talk ; but, he said nothing ;
and actually seemed afraid of me. He was rather young to
claim chieftainship. He gave me the customary chicken: and,
I lunched on it, while the rain fell. And then resumed mv
52 MY OGOWE
journey. There was a singular cry of a bird ; a series of sounds
like attempts at vomiting", that increased with hysteric rapidity
until, as my crew told me, the bird would cease, almost suf-
focated.
From Mr. Sinclair's I made a call at the house of one of the
two adjacent traders. There occurred an incident that interested
me much about a class of native women, with regard to whom
I learned to differ from most of my fellow-missionaries. And
these first impressions on this subject were deepened and con-
victions strengthened during the subsequent years of my life in
Africa. I was living in the villages ; and in my itinerations
necessarily obtained wider views than would be gathered bv
missionaries living in the narrower seclusion of a mission
house.
Among the native women, in the neighborhood of white set-
tlements, and especially at the sea-ports, there were those who
unblushingly and deliberately led the life of a harlot. In a
stratum above these, were other women who respected them-
selves sufficiently not to go onto the street to seek men, but who
would yield if sought. Above these, and resenting the vile name,
were lady-like women, some of them our former schoolgirls, who
resisted general solicitation, and who held themselves faithfully
to the one man of their choice, some of them for years, in ex-
actly the same relation, as the " common-law " wife of civiliza-
tion. As these latter held a legal status in some of the United
States, and were never associated with " prostitutes." I could
not see why that name should be applied to women who held the
same status even in a country where the standards of civilization
were lower. Those African " common-law " wives were modest,
faithful, lady-like. And. T thought that they were rather to be
pitied than condemned. (A distinguished missionary Bishop of
the Methodist church expressed himself to me. as sympathizing
in my view.) Such a " wife." Sisingaye. a civilized Benga wo-
man, felt herself lonely among the ignorant Galwa women, and
asked me for a book, and came to attend mv evening service.
She said, " T know I am not a Christian : but, I wish T was living
where T could have at least a chance of hearing the Gospel."
On Friday. November T3. T started down the " smaller branch"
of the Ogowe: which, as it led through the Ajumba country, was
sometimes called the " Ajumba." At once T was attracted bv a
hill, Kangwe (which two years later became my home). On.
down through the divisions and subdivisions of streams. And.
in the late afternoon. T stopped to eat at the village Fanga-'nanga
PROSPECTING 53
(Afraid-of-Tribes). There, for the first time, I ate hippopot-
amus meat. It was very good beef; it was tender; for the ani-
mal eats only the tender grasses of the river banks, except when
he destructively invades the native plantations. There also, I
met with the first large hills of the termite ant.
On Sunday, November 15, at Lake Azingo, in Anege's town, I
was among a people, most of whom had never heard of Sunday,
and none of whom ever observed it. In my company, but not
under my control, was a native messenger sent by Mr. Sinclair
with dispatches to Libreville via the Rembwe River. This young
man, when he was not playing cards (the first amusement adopted
by the natives from the example of the traders), was bargaining
with men of the town for porters to accompany him on the over-
land journey. I kept the day in my own quiet. Sitting on the
shore of the lake, I thought of One who long ago had sat by the
shore of Gennesareth, speaking the Word of Life to a mixed
multitude on the beach. My audience, in the morning had been
one drawn together only by curiosity to hear what " this white
man " would say. Besides my own crew of Kombes and Galwas,
there were before me members of the Nkami, Ajumba, Akele, and
Fafiwe tribes. The only native tongue which I spoke fluently
was Benga, though I had been working on the Dikele. The Gal-
wa (Mpongwe Nkami Ajumba) and the Fanwe were to be
my future additions. In the afternoon, I went through the vil-
lages, talking from hut to hut. And held another meeting at
night, under the beautiful moonlight streaming over the wave-
lets of the lake. Chief Anege was more civilized than any I had
met. He entertained me comfortably and politely. He gave
me a goat for food.
Monday, November 16. How tribal jealousy runs into all
relations of life! My Kombes and Galwas were quarreling over
the division of the goat. There was abundance for all ; but, their
discussion was as to which should have most. Leaving them to
their quarrel, I followed Anege, who wished to show me other
villages. At one, I met a larger number of children than I had
seen in one African village. Such a crowd of people ! Such
numbers of children ! The mother of the head-man came rushing
through the crowd, and, in excited whispers, addressed me, say-
ing that other white men had passed them by, that I was their
first white visitor, and that, as I had come, she hoped I would
stay, and that my coming would bring them " good." The only
" good " of which she was thinking was probably pecuniary gain.
The entire native population of that portion of Africa placed its
54 MY OGOWE
earthly hopes on the white man. Many were afraid of him, es-
pecially of his eye (particularly, if it was blue or gray) and
therefore were obsequious. But, they all looked to him as the
source of gain ; the men all wanted an advance loan of his trade
goods, promising to repay with ivory or india rubber ; and many
of the women would be pleased to marry him. They then could
have all the bright clothes and ornaments for which their bar-
baric tastes longed ! And, they could sit in idleness, no longer
carrying heavy burdens from the forest plantations ! They had
heard also, that white men treated women kindly, not beating
them, as did African husbands !
The native hair, is, of course, negro hair. But, as in the case
of other races, it varies in length and in fineness. Coarse na-
tures have the short, coarse, wooly tufts not more than three
inches long. Finer and more aristocratic ones have fine hair,
eight or ten inches long. Much care is taken in the braiding of
those into chignons and ringlets. And, like the Chinese queue
and the American " rat," these are elongated by strings of fiber
from plants, and ornamented with pieces of brass wire twisted
into them.
Most delicious meat is that of the manatee. A man had killed
one, gave me a piece, and allowed me to witness one of their
superstitious ceremonies for future success, in their manatee-
hunting. A piece of the flesh was cooked (not in a foreign iron-
pot, but, in native earthenware). It was then carefully covered
by a plantain-leaf; no women or children were allowed to be
present. Then, the men gathered around the pot, with a variety
of incantations, and ate the meat. When it was consumed, they
simultaneously jumped and shouted. "My belly is not full!"
This was said, even if their appetite had been satisfied, as a sort
of prayer to the spirit of the feast, that they wanted more at a
future day. When, then, the fisherman shall go again manatee-
hunting, he puts a small pot of boiled leaves and barks, as a sac-
rifice to the spirit, in the bow of the canoe; and, it is then ex-
pected it will attract the animal to its death. The man gave me
a piece of the uncooked meat, conditioning, however, that T
should boil it, and not have it cooked in my preferred mode of
jomba. I yielded to his condition.
My visit to Azingo Lake was. in at least one respect, satis-
factory. According to my habitual custom, T was looking ahead
for possible means of return to the coast, for the annual meeting
of mission in December. In civilized countries, it is easy to pack
up, at an hour's notice, and leave by boat or rail for any destina-
PROSPECTING 55
tion. But, in our Africa, we never knew, for a month at a time,
when any of the little river trading-steamers would be arriving or
going. Moreover, they were not public carriers ; the obtaining
of passage on them was a matter of personal favor and cour-
tesy on the part of the trader. I had gone to Azingo, to find out
in advance, whether the route would be practicable, financially
and otherwise, if, when, December came, there was no other
way of my reaching Gaboon.
I returned to Mr. Sinclair's, sleeping one night on the way, at
Fanga-'nanga's in Ajumba : and reached the Aguma house late
at night, just in time to escape a heavy rain. On Thursday, No-
vember 19, I found that the Pioneer had arrived on the preceding
Sunday, and had gone up river on the Tuesday, with Mr. Sin-
clair. I went to the room which he had kindly designated as
mine, and found his clerk, Mr. Percy, sleeping in it. I did not
object to that; but, I had to arouse him, in order to ask for the
key to the store-house, where I would sleep on my original
counter. Percy handed me three letters from parties in Libreville.
I was disappointed. Where was my mail from America?
Percy was drunk, and said there was none. But, Mr. Sinclair's
bright little native valet told me he had seen another parcel. He
brought it. It was the blessed mail, with a dozen letters and
other documents ! I sat up very late, reading them. Some of
the news was glad, and some sad. I was troubled to find
from sister Isabella's Benita letters, that the mission carpenter
had not kept his distinct promise to me, that he would promptly
build her house. On that promise, I had left her house unfin-
ished, and had gone to my Ogowe work. He had been pro-
vokingly slow, and even discourteous. I wished to haste to her
and do the building myself, and determined to go to the coast
sooner than I had intended. But no plans could be made until
Mr. Sinclair and the Pioneer should return, which I was told
would be for a week or ten days later !
I waited a week restlessly. I tried to amuse myself by playing
on my guitar. But, the memories of the old songs made me feel
my loneliness more acutely. I occupied myself by writing a letter
to the American Geographical Society. But, anxieties for my
sister weighed on me. And, as I proved again and again, the
worst factor, in developing a fever, is brooding over troubles.
Sometimes, an indigestible article of food will be the last feather
on the back of patient Nature. I had often suspected that ba-
nanas, eaten comfortably by almost everybody else, were not
good for me. But, I liked the taste and odor. I ate a large
56 MY OGOWE
red one. (I have never eaten a banana since then, attractive as
they are.) I went to bed on Sunday, the 22d, my teeth chat-
tering with a chill of intermittent fever. (Probably, the mos-
quitoes of Ajumba had a good deal to do with it.)
The Pioneer returned on Tuesday, and hurried away on
Wednesday, the 25th. A strange incident occurred that day, il-
lustrating the lawlessness of the African wilds, and how, when
civilized men are left to their own autocratic devices, they lower
their social and moral standards.
Mr. Sinclair was always to me a gentleman, most kind and
generous. In the abstract, he favored missions; for, in Scotland,
he had been a church-member, and his sentiments to me, in con-
versation, were always elevated. But, I knew that he followed
the custom of the country, and had a common-law native wife.
She was not brought to the table ; but, I frequently saw her in his
room and about the house, where she gave orders as she wished.
As I was his guest, it was understood that I should be blind and
dumb as to her presence. She had her servants; and her rela-
tives were favored about the house. One of these, a young
brother, hap])ened to come into collision with clerk Percy, who
was continuing his daily semi-intoxication. Percy struck him, for
some impertinence. That was nothing new at a white man's trad-
ing-house. Natives were accustomed to be struck. But, this
lad was a son of the Galwa " King," and brother to the white
man's "wife"! He had been allowed a great deal of liberty
and assumption. Air. Sinclair, suffering with a boil, came limp-
ing on the scene. Instead of rebuking the lad, he violently be-
rated Percy for daring to strike his favorite's brother! The lad
seemed to take a cue from this, and. in a rage, he ran to his
village, and returning with a trade flint-lock gun. without warn-
ing, discharged it point blank at Percy. Those Africans do not
aim their guns; they only point them. But the discharge would
probably have been fatal had not another native struck the barrel
upward, and the shots went through the thatch roof, almost
setting it on fire. The gun was taken from him, but the angry
lad snatched up one of mine that was lying near. That was
time for me to interfere. No punishment was laid on the lad.
Percy was thus placed in a very humiliating and even unsafe
position, before the natives. It was common for some of the
trade agents to treat their white clerks as inferiors. We mis-
sionaries were constantly received in the agent's office as his
equals. But, if his clerks happened to enter the room, we were
not expected to salute them or take any notice of them. And,
PROSPECTING 57
yet, out of that office, or not in the agent's presence, those young
men and we were affable!
In that new country, away from the aids of physician and
surgeon, foreigners sometimes suffered exceedingly. The chi-
goes, which had been such a terror to me in September, had
evaded Mr. Sinclair's vigilance, and had burrowed not simply
on a toe or near a nail, but actually under it. The pain and ul-
ceration were so great, that as an alternative to allowing the in-
sects to remain and breed and extend their destructive work, he
had himself deliberately torn the nail away! An operation,
which in civilization, is performed only under an anaesthetic!
But, such were the necessities of a pioneer life. I knew, also, of
a physician, who, after days of suffering from a tooth, himself
applied the forceps, and extracted the tooth. And, on one occa-
sion, a young white man landed at my door, from an all-night
stormy boat- journey on the ocean, after having suffered for a
week, and demanded relief. I admitted that I knew how to ex-
tract teeth, but that I had not my instruments with me. He in-
sisted that I must relieve him. I succeeded, with an ordinary
carpenter's pincers.
On Sunday, November 29, I saw a pitiful incident in slavery.
The day had been a beautiful one. I had recovered my usual
health, after the bit of intermittent fever. I had finished all
packing and plans for my oyerland journey, ready for Monday.
I had enjoyed a quiet reading, on Mr. Sinclair's veranda, look-
ing off across the wide Ogowe, studded there with islands, and
beyond to the blue hills of its affluent, the Ngunye. He looked
up from his pipe, and saw a collection of canoes on a beach sev-
eral hundred yards distant. Thinking they might be some of his
sub-traders, he rose to go and inspect them. I followed. The
canoes were of Orungu slave traders. Their slaves looked thin
and sad. I protested that they should be fed. Their masters
said that, in their grief and fear of to what they were going, they
had refused to eat. (I did not believe that; though I had been
told that interior slaves thought that they were being exported
as food for the occupants of white man's land. Considering
the cannibalism of the interior, that was possible.) Among
them was a comely looking woman, who, attracted by his kind
looks, pleaded with Mr. Sinclair to buy her, and save her from
a possibly cruel native master. One of Mr. Sinclair's Nkami-
tribe traders was standing by with his own little slave boy. The
child said that, in the tribe from which he had been stolen when
very young, he had left his mother, whom that woman so resem-
58 MY OGOWE
bled that he believed she was his mother! (This incident I de-
veloped, in my novelette " Mawedo." published by the American
Tract Society, 1880.) That Nkami man had told me that
another of his slaves had seen, many tribes distant beyond the
interior Bakote, a white man traveling and paying his way with
cloth, and not with rum. Who was it? Was it Livingstone?
or some one from the East? Or. Dr. Nachtigal from the North
East ?
CHAPTER IV
OVERLAND TO THE COAST DECEMBER, 1874
STARTING on Monday, November 30, by my own canoe
and crew, but with four of Mr. Sinclair's Galwas, who
were to bring the canoe back to Aguma, I made the run
down the Ajumba branch to Lake Azingo in one day. The
chief, Anege, was expecting me, and was helpful. The same
hunter, who had killed a manatee on my previous visit, had just
killed a half-grown female hippopotamus. The cutting up was
to be with certain superstitious ceremonies, which I was per-
mitted to witness the next day. The hunter, a young man,
thrust a stalk of canna ("Indian shot") wet with water from
a pot of " medicine," in front of the animal's nose, as it lay on
its back. Then, he rubbed red chalk in a line from the tail
down the raphe to the lips. Then, sitting on the jaws, with a
series of slaps (as if in a patting way) he talked to the spirits of
the animal's life, asking them not to be angry with him, nor to
upset his canoe, or in any other way make it difficult to obtain
another animal when next he should go hunting, etc., etc. His
mother, standing by, also addressed the animal, begging it not
to avenge itself by permitting other beasts to hurt her son; and,
like the Hebrew damsels for Jephtha's daughter, bemoaning that
this animal could never become a mother, etc., etc. Then, the
young man, with paddle in one hand and harpoon in the other,
mounted the body at the tail, and walked over the belly to the
nose, singing as he walked. Then, he cut off small slices of
the skin from the nose, each knee and the navel, and put them
in his fetish-bag. Then he stabbed the swollen body, and ap-
plying his mouth to the wound, inhaled the fetid gas. Then,
others assisted him in disemboweling. After the viscera had
all been removed, he threw the contents of the pot of " medi-
cine " into the cavity, and stooping there himself, he threw the
dirty bloody water over his shoulders, singing all the while.
Then he bailed out the mixture with his hands, all the time pray-
ing the spirits of the animal to help him if his canoe should up-
set, etc., etc. When the body had been almost all cut up, he
took the canna-stalk from the mouth, and, with some leaves and
59
60 MY OGOWE
the pieces of the skin, went aside by himself, and cut the stalk
in small pieces, blowing a blessing on them, and talking to them,
in an undertone, words I did not understand.
In traveling the world over, the necessities of the traveler are
pitted against the greed of his employee, whether that employee
be a United States cab-man, a European porter, or an African
boatman. I began the diplomatic task of hiring carriers, for my
overland journey. Three Fanwe were willing to go, for a lump
sum of $9 (trade goods), simply as guides, and refusing to
carry any burdens. I dropped the negotiation with them.
Later, at a village, I found four, who, for $10 (trade), said
they would go both as guides and porters. Anege was helpful
in lessening their demands. Then, I had trouble with Mr. Sin-
clair's employees. He had stipulated that I should send them
back to him immediately on my arrival at the lake. I had
reached the lake on the night of Monday, November 30; but,
they refused to start back until the morning of Wednesday,
December 2. On going with friend Anege to the village of my
newly engaged four Fanwe, to see whether they were getting
ready, they demurred saying that, for the promised $10, only
three of them would go. I did not yield to them; for, Anege
hinted to me that this was only a threat to test me. I bought
of the hippo hunter, for $2 (trade) all the bones of the animal's
head. I wanted them for a gift to American friends.
On Thursday, December 3, I was ready to start, having seven
packages, each of thirty-five pounds weight. (East African por-
ters carry burdens of double that weight.) Friend Anege
started with me and my five crew, in a borrowed canoe, to the
village where I was to pick up the four Fanwe. They stood at
the beach, smiling in their sense of power, and declined to go
at all unless I would add $2 more. Helpless, I consented.
And, they promptly entered the canoe. Anege remained with
me, while we crossed the lake, and landed on its northern side.
There, he made the Fanwe a formal address, committing me to
their care, and demanding a faithful fulfillment of their contract.
They replied in as formal and earnest manner. This scene, of
conflict with cupidity, was one that was repeated many a time in
my African pioneer life. Diplomacy! diplomacy! I felt a
duty to go to trouble rather than yield to expense, expense that
would, at the time, have made things easier and more comfort-
able for myself; but, I knew I was making precedents for my
successors. Traders did not have to be so diplomatic. Their
rum bottle was a power, before which all difficulties vanished!
OVERLAND TO THE COAST 61
Contests sometimes arose with my regular monthly employees,
in the way of a "strike." To them, I never yielded; as an
alternative, I dismissed them. The necessity that sometimes
compelled me to yield arose only on journeys, and among
strangers, for unexpected needs.
The journey overland was not difficult. It was interesting in
new sights. There were swamps, crossed by single-log bridges,
on which I had to practice very careful balancing: and a river,
where the log was actually afloat, and there was only a vine, as
a guy-rope, by which to steady one's self : and many streams,
which I waded, first removing my shoes and socks, and even dis-
robing. (In that matter, I wisely saved health, at the expense
of time. Other white men, including a few missionaries, pre-
ferred to rush in, and then walk with their wet garments. I
know of some who lost their lives from a resulting fever.)
There were dark ravines through the foothills and steep
ascents, until the top of the watershed between the Ogowe and
the Gaboon was reached, and then there was a level plateau.
The path was narrow, but well-trodden, under the forest of
ebony, mahogany, and many other trees, among which were some
edible-nut bearing. On the path, we met companies of Fanwe
and Bakele. It is a rule for white travelers, in malaria districts,
to drink no water until it is boiled. That was the only rule of
health I ever deliberately disregarded. Hunger I could readily
bear, for a whole day; but, thirst I could not. I drank any-
where, of any water. On that journey, the water was from
clear mountain brooks. If, in my life in Africa, I exposed my-
self by drinking from waters less clear, the evil of my indiscre-
tion was overcome by my faithful caution in all other hygienic
and sanitary respects. I never felt any ill-effects from my indis-
criminate satisfaction of thirst. The resulting profuse perspira-
tion was itself a healthful thing. And, I always, at such states,
guarded from foolishly plunging into cold water for a bath, or
sitting in chilly shades. Two nights were spent on the way.
The natives, for their own convenience, along such routes, had
built exceedingly light and rude rest sheds, having one side of a
roof (the side toward prevailing rain-storms) otherwise entirely
open ; but having roughly made bed frames. My guide passed
one of these, at sunset, and declined to stop, saying that there
was a better one beyond. When we reached its site, it was in
ruins. It was night ; and we slept in the open forest. The next
night was in an Akele hamlet, where the bed was, like Jeremiah's,
too short for legs to stretch themselves.
62 MY OGOWE
On the morning of the third day, one of my Kombes told me
that he had overheard people in the hamlet telling news, and say-
ing that, at the village, Agonjo, on the Rembwe banks, to which
we were going, there was a little cutter, Lizzctte, belonging to
the English firm of J. Holt & Co., which was about leaving for
Libreville.
The plan of my journey had included the hiring at Agonjo
of some canoe, in which to paddle down the Rembwe and into
the Gaboon. I hurried my caravan of nine men, hoping to get
passage on the Lizzettc. In my haste. I myself led the way.
though I was lame from having bruised my shin, on the previous
day, against a stump on the path, and the wound was painful.
I saw the morning mist over the river ahead, and it incited me.
We raced, under the plaudits of the inhabitants of Agonjo, to
the boat-landing. The crew of the Lizzctte were laboring in
an effort to lift their anchor! Without asking the owner's per-
mission, I pushed Ingumu into a canoe with some of our pack-
ages, to request passage on the little cutter. He returned for
our second load, myself and the other four men. Just as I
reached the little deck, up came the anchor! The Mpongwe cap-
tain knew me ; he was Mr. Holt's employee ; I did not need to
haggle for a price of passage. He only said, " Dr. Nassau, God
has helped me and you! I had been pulling at that anchor for
an hour. It would not loosen its hold below, until you hove in
sight!"
Farther down the river, the Lizzctte transferred us to another
of Mr. Holt's boats, a larger one. the Brunette, commanded by
a white man. Two days and nights were spent on the Brunette.
Its captain, a Dane, treated me well enough, especially as he
made use of my men, to work for their passage. But, he was
so surly and profane with his own men. that it was unpleasant
to hear him. Finally, we reached Libreville trading-houses, by
9 a. ]tf. of Monday. December 7. I went onwards to our mis-
sion station on Baraka Hill, for a welcome bv Rev. Dr. Bushnell.
CHAPTER V
AT THE SEASIDE STATIONS DECEMBER, 1874 MARCH, 1875
AT Baraka, the warmth of the welcome was mingled with
disappointment about my mail. Dr. Bushnell, not
knowing I was coming so soon, had properly forwarded
it to the Ogowe, by first chance, on the little French trading-
boat, on November 17. It had not reached Galwa when I left
there on November 30. It would probably not be returned
within two weeks. Such were the irregularities of chance mail
communication in those days ! That I might reach my sister at
Benita, I made anxious inquiries for possible sailing boats or
little trading steamers going northward. There were accounts
to be settled with the mission treasurer. And, an official call
on the French Government house at Plateau, where the Com-
mandant was very much pleased at my report on the overland
Azingo route, as a feasible road to the Ogowe, and promised me
encouragement in the development of that river. Only two white
men had preceded me on that route ; and both of them made
their start from Libreville. The traders were agreeably sur-
prised that I had so successfully accomplished it. On Sunday.
December 13, I relieved Dr. Bushnell in the pulpit, both morning
and evening.
On the morning of Thursday, December 17, I got passage, ac-
companied by my two Kombes and three Galwas, on a small
trading cutter going the thirty-five miles to Elobi Island in Co-
risco Bay. whence I hoped a boat might be found for Benita.
Reached a trading house of two Germans, by nine o'clock that
night. In uncivilized lands, a man's civilization reveals itself,
as against the greed, treachery, or cruelty of other races toward
a stranger. However little common ground of religion or
morality there might be between missionaries and many traders,
the common humanity of our civilization always gave a welcome
and shared their best. Those two men were short of civilized
food; but they gave me a comfortable bed, which I valued, after
my day's seasickness.
Next day, I found a sailing boat of a Kombe man, Jali, that
was intending to go the fifty miles to Benita. Thev knew me of
63
64 MY OGOWE
old ; and, for a reasonable consideration, they hastened their
departure on Saturday. There were twelve of us crowded in
that boat. Jali himself landed at Sipolu, and sent two of his
men to take me across the river to Bolondo, where I was finally
landed, under a heavy rain, at my sister's door, about four
o'clock of Sunday morning, December 20. My sister needed
me ; and had been hoping - for my coming.
I walked the two miles to church that morning, to the services
conducted by the missionary in charge, Rev. Win. Schorsch.
There were glad welcomes from my former Benita parishioners.
In the afternoon, on request, I conducted the Sacrament of the
Lord's Supper. The next day, I set to work, and got native
carpenters to hasten the work of building my sister's house,
which Mr. Menkel had neglected. He was away, just at that
time, at Libreville, in his capacity as captain of the mission
schooner, Hudson. That vessel returned to Benita on Thurs-
day, December 24, bringing in the mail, my share which had
been returned from the Ogowe.
Friday, December 25, was " Christmas." But, I did not care
for Christmas in uncivilized Africa. I could not keep it with
natives, most of whom knew of it as a day on which to beg for
gifts. I would not even have thought of the day, if Miss Jones,
my sister's associate, had not reminded me of it. We read our
letters all together, and compared notes. At my landing on the
Sunday morning, Tali's two men had failed properly to beach
the boat; it floated away; was found by two Benita men. and
held for ransom. I was unjustly involved. After much ill-
feeling, Mwanytye " Tom " came to say that the demand for
$50 for the boat had been receded from, and that the boat was
to be released. He wanted me to go to Upwanjo village, and
it be given up in my presence. T went, in my sister's boat Evan-
geline; stopped at Mbade, and saluted Mr. and Mrs. Menkel ;
went to the village; and the boat was yielded. Returned to
Mbade; and, with Mr. Menkel. went off to the Hudson, and got
my boxes and other things, brought from the Ogowe, which I
had left at Baraka.
My stay at Benita was a series of confusions in efforts to
hasten the Bolondo house building: defense of my sister against
Mr. Schorsch's oppressions; quarrels of Mr. Schorsch and Mr.
Menkel ; outbreak of the people against me because of my move-
ments against Mr. Schorsch ; and goings back and forth on the
sea. The next week, with a native carpenter " Wilson," from
Corisco. and Ebuma, one of the Benita elders, the work on the
m
C
<
AT THE SEASIDE STATIONS 65
building was pushed. It stood on the edge of the dense forest,
from which one night came a leopard and killed sister's milk-
goat Brownie. The operations I interrupted one day, to go with
sister, in the Evangeline, to Mbade, to put in order the graves
of Mrs. Nassau and my little Paulk I stayed to lunch with
the Menkels ; and had a long talk with Mr. Schorsch about his
allowing desecrations of the cemetery. And, another talk, with
Mr. Menkel, in an effort to establish some peace between him and
Mr. Schorsch. I thought both worthy of blame; Mr. Menkel
for his irascibility, and Mr. Schorsch for his autocracy.
On the morning of Wednesday. January 6, 1875, I left Benita,
on the Hudson, with Mr. Schorsch, my sister and Miss Jones,
for the annual mission meetings at Libreville, arriving there in
the morning of Saturday, the 9th. I was elected clerk, and, as
a sop to Cerberus, we chose Mr. Schorsch as moderator; but,
some of his doings were almost maniacal. The meetings hav-
ing ended, I should have returned to my Ogowe work. But,
affairs at Benita were in such confusion, I did not think it safe
to leave my sister until some settlement was made. On Satur-
day, January 16, our company started back northward, stopping
over the Sunday at Elongo Station, Corisco Island, of Rev. C.
De Heer. And, on Tuesday, the 19th, I was again at work on
the Bolondo house. Mr. Schorsch came from Mbade in his
canoe, to call on me : and made a strange confession of his sus-
picions against me, and his hope of improvement in good feel-
ing. I accepted his words ; but, really, I believed his professions
a part of his insane duplicity.
The work at Bolondo continued. Before he came to Africa,
Mr. Schorsch had been known as " eccentric." Africa inten-
sifies any prominent part of a foreigner's character. His eccen-
tricity became a monomania. On all other points he was sane.
His mania was that he was in supreme authority. He became
so outrageous that I asked him to go with me for a called meet-
ing of mission to decide on his claims. He refused to go.
Warning him that I would go without him, and that action might
possibly be taken against him. I went, on the Hudson, February
25, stopping on the way, at Corisco, for Mr. De Heer; and
reached Libreville. Wednesday. March 3. The mission decided
to remove Mr. Schorsch from all his offices. On Friday, March
5, I started back to Benita. arriving there, Saturday, March 6.
On the 8th, I sent Mr. Schorsch the mission's official notification.
He declined to recognize the mission, or to yield the offices.
He played into the cupidity of the people ; who, though they did
66 MY OGOWE
not respect him, valued him as a means of obtaining money and
employment. He seized, and refused to deliver some goods for
my sister, that had been landed from the Hudson, by Mr. Men-
kel, at the Mbade house. He incited a mob, led by three heathen
chiefs, Metyeba, Ivina. and Monyamo (which most of the church
members also joined), then threatened me with violence, if I
attempted to enforce the mission's order. Even Mwanyatye
Tom and Isanga (former intimate friends) while they protected
me from assault, ordered me to leave and " go back to Ogowe
with your badness." Only my sister's Bolondo young men were
faithful to me. (That outrage of the Benita mob remained in
my memory during all the subsequent years.) After some days
of exciting conferences, the mob feeling subsided. Mr. Schorsch
yielded. And, on Wednesday, March 17, bidding good-by to
my sister, I started, on the Hudson, with Mr. Schorsch, again
for Libreville, stopping at Corisco Island, for Mr. De Heer, for
the quarterly mission and presbytery meetings : and arrived in
the Gaboon River on Saturday, the 20th. Mr. Schorsch made a
great deal of excitement and trouble in the meetings ; and it was
decided to report him to the Board in New York. He would
obey no orders, nor comply with any requests. There was no
place for him in the mission. Mr. De Heer would not receive
him at Elongo Station, nor Dr. Bushnell at Baraka. My sister
would not be safe, if he were sent again to Benita. As a solu-
tion, I offered to accept him as an associate in the Ogowe. (I
did not then know that he had no intention of being an " asso-
ciate.") Finally, after our patient endurance of his threats to
have us all punished by his Emperor of Germany, he boarded
the Pioneer with me and my three Galwas and one Kombe to
start for the Ogowe, on Tuesday, March 30.
CHAPTER VI
RETURN TO THE OGOWE APRIL, 1875
LIVINGSTONE, in his diaries of his journeys with that
same Pioneer, on the Zambesi and Shire Rivers, speaks
of the wearying stoppages of its engines. History re-
peated itself on that journey of mine into the Ogowe.
Progress was so slow, and I was so anxious to get back to
my Ogowe work, that, when the vessel stopped at Chief Isagi's
town Ngumbi, I sent ahead, by a passing canoe, one of my men,
Alendeginye, for him to report at Aguma the state of affairs on
the Pioneer. Hopeless of the vessel's getting any farther (for,
with its unskilled engineer, it had been stopping almost every
hour of the journey), I hired a very large canoe and nine Nkami
young men and two boys, making, with my remaining four, a
crew of fifteen paddlers. With Mr. Schorsch, our baggage, food
supplies, and lumber and other building materials, the canoe was
heavily laden and closely crowded. I left the Pioneer on Fri-
day, April 9, for the fifty miles pull to Mr. Sinclair's trading-
house. The young men were desirous of employment, and were
willing to take me up river, though, in so doing, they were un-
intentionally helping to destroy the universal African trade
monopoly. And there were murmurs by Isagi's people, threat-
ening to prevent their going. I hastened our departure. In
journeys by boat. I usually took the rudder, thus keeping all the
crew at the oars or paddles. But. in a canoe, guided by a pad-
dle, more skill was required, and I always left that post to a
native as captain. Mr. Schorsch soon revealed his animus by
displacing the steersman, and himself tried to steer, as a sign
of his supremacy. He was so unskilled, and the canoe swayed
so wildly under his hand, that the crew protested. I had to push
him aside, and replaced the native. We stopped to lunch: to
buy provisions ; and to attend to a man's toe ulcerated by chig-
oes.
Later in the day, about 5 p. m., stopped at a village, for the
crew to eat. Air. Schorsch went ashore, to eat by himself, and
to preach, though he knew nothing of the language of the
67
68 MY OGOWE
Ogowe, and my employee whom he used as interpreter knew
only a smattering of English!
After dark, we continued the journey, hoping to reach the
Igenja village of a certain man, Ombya-ngwana. In passing a
village of the Ivili tribe, near Ashuka, most of the crew wished
to stop there for the night; but, the captain, Ananga-'mweni
(Other-tribes) was afraid of a family quarrel there; and we
proceeded. Later, when the slow movements of the paddles
showed that the crew were tired, we stopped for the night at
another Ivili village. The crew went to the huts ashore; but,
I slept on the uneven boxes in the canoe, under a slight rain,
weak from a diarrhea, and protected by only a mosquito-net.
The crew returned next morning (Saturday) by six o'clock
sunrise, after I had been buying plantains, farinya. and extra
paddles (to replace broken ones). We passed the body of a
woman floating in an eddy near the river-side. Monkeys were
in the oil-palm trees, plucking the nuts.
Stopped at a village. Xandipo. of a young man. Azaze, for
the crew to eat. Taking me as his guest, he presented me with
a bunch of plantains; and. professing friendship, wished to seal
the bond, by the usual act of native hospitality to a white man,
of loaning me one of his wives. The young woman, standing
smiling by, was, like Barkis, " willin'." My respectful explana-
tion that missionaries did not approve of that feature in their hos-
pitality, was accepted. Du Chaillu. in one of his books, relates
that he was offered three hundred " princesses " as his wives.
It is probable that that number of women were offered him.
But, to be an African " princess." her father may l)e the " king "
of a village of only fifty people. Xo such offer is made to a mis-
sionary, by the same man. a second time. Xor is it repeated in
any region in which a missionary has once traveled. The report
in regard to mission-character is carried in advance.
We rested on the Sunday. In all my missionary lite. I never
traveled, in my own conveyance or afoot, on Sunday. Even if
I did not know the native dialect, or had no interpreter, and
none of my crew or of the villagers were Christians. T kept the
day free from labor. My journey. I was sure, even if 1 was in
haste, would be the more prospered during the ensuing week.
In almost any village, there would be at least one person, who.
in his wanderings among white men. had picked up a tew words
of English, through which I could make myself understood as to
my Commission.
The next day's pull was a successful one. Though it was the
RETURN TO THE OGOWE 69
season of the heavy " latter " rains, I kept dry; at villages where
we stopped, I obtained abundance of food ; and, at one place,
where I sat resting ashore in the shade, a snake passed between
my legs without attempting to strike with its fangs.
I reached Mr. Sinclair's by 1 a. m. of Tuesday, April 15.
He was away. I awoke his new assistant, Mr. Travis, landed
my goods, and was in a comfortable bed by 2 a. m. It had
been a hard trip. It proved to me that, though an open boat
might do for my personal travel, I should not transport goods
and supplies in that way. (And, yet, in the later years, I often
had to do so!) Naturally, after such a journey, with all its
responsibilities, one would need to rest, have clothing changed
and washed, and examine boxes, to see if their contents were
wet, and re-pack. But, by 8 a. m., Mr. Schorsch was urging
that our journey should be resumed ! I declined. Then he
asked me for four of my men that he might go on ahead. With
his maniacal traits, I was afraid to entrust him with authority
over them, and I refused. Then he broke into hysterical tears,
making an unpleasant demonstration before the trading-house
people. After a while, he recognized the propriety of our await-
ing the return of the head of the house, Mr. Sinclair, from his
journey.
In November. '74, I had left boxes in the Aguma house.
They sadly needed examination. My supply of rice was in-
fested with weevils. An enormous quantity of great black ants
in my box of clothing had ruined my best black suit. By Satur-
day evening, Mr. Sinclair returned. At the supper table with
him, besides Mr. Schorsch and myself, were Mr. Travis, Captain
Stone, and a Goree trader. The only representatives of civiliza-
tion in all that river! I felt the sentiment of wishing for a
larger representation and, by permission, I placed on the table a
tin of fall pippins given me by my sister from her box of Law-
renceville. N. J., presents.
On Sunday. April 18, the Pioneer arrived. The noise of de-
barcation and unloading destroyed any likeness to Sabbath rest.
But, in the evening, while I was quietly singing by myself,
" Safe in the arms of Jesus," Captain Stone recognized the tune.
And, afterwards, Mr. Travis joined us; and we sang other
hymns, among them, " Glory to Thee, my God, this night," and
" All hail the power of Jesus' Name." The lives of those men
were in defiance of religion and morality ; but, in their own
England, they had probably been churchgoers. I was glad to
be of some use in keeping alive their thought of religion.
CHAPTER VII
AT KASA's TOWN APRIL JUNE, I 875
THE engines of the Pioneer had been repaired, and, on
Monday, April 19, Mr. Sinclair suddenly decided that
the vessel should go some twenty-five miles up the
Ogowe to^inspect his Osam'-'kita trading-house. I really think
he did this out of kindness, to give me passage to Kasa's town.
It certainly was more comfortable than two days' paddling in
a canoe, open to rain, etc. I had bought an old canoe and gave
it to the nine Nkami young men, who had so successfully brought
me to Aguma, for them to return to their down-river homes.
And, Alendaginye had arrived from his village just in time,
bringing with him three new young men for my crew, Ogandaga.
'Pi vino and Kengenge. It was pleasant to sit on the deck of
Livingstone's Pioneer, and note, as she slowly passed, the land-
marks I had charted for myself, on my canoe journeys six
months previously. There was the mouth of the Ngunye on the
left bank, and the familiar islands, and sandbanks, and the
villages whose inhabitants were to be my friends, whose language
I was to learn, and whose lives I hoped to influence. We were
at Kasa's town by 10 p. m., being able to travel even the Ogowe's
tortuous channels at night, with the season's deep water, and
under the bright moonlight. By the aid of the Pioneer's surf-
boat and its crew of stout Kroo-men, and Captain Johns' energy,
my goods were soon landed, and temporarily stored in a store-
house which Agaia had built since the preceding November. I
spread my rug on my pile of boards, and, being very tired,
hoped to sleep. But, my mosquito-net was inaccessible in one
of my boxes, the insects were very bad; and there was little
sleep. The next days I was welcomed by all the people, espe-
cially by Kasa's head-wife, his little nephew Mutyi, and the little
girl Awethe. Kasa had been anxiously expecting me, and had
begun almost to believe I had deceived him ; because, on leaving
him in the preceding November, '74, I had told him I would be
back again before three months. And, now. it was six months!
(I had had no idea of what lay before me, in the Schorsch and
Menkel troubles.)
AT KASA'S TOWN 71
I took Mr. Schorsch a walk, to show him the place, near
Ibanyi's village, where I had decided to build, and where I as-
sumed he would associate with me. But, the next day he was
violently excited with the idea that the room in Kasa's house in
which we were sleeping was not good. He went off by himself,
and established himself in the adjacent village of Ntambi. He
wished also that I should divide the Kombe and Galwa employees
with him. I needed them all for the building of the house,
which I assumed would be for us both. I thought that, if he
wished to live separate from me, he should have engaged his
own servants from the coast. However, for the sake of peace,
I would have consented. However, I could not compel the
young men against their own will. Only one was willing to
go with Mr. Schorsch, as cook.
Mr. Schorsch got into his tantrums two or three times. But,
as it takes two to make a quarrel, and as I sat still and listened
without reply to his complaints and charges, he stopped. He
quieted a good deal from his Benita violence, and I hoped I
would not have trouble from him. I did not believe that he had
really changed, or that, had he the power, he would not make
confusion. / now had the power (in the estimate of the peo-
ple), but I in no way avenged myself, now that the tables were
turned. The separation between Mr. Schorsch and myself he
made more positive and final. I had made with him a fair divi-
sion of my goods and supplies, hoping for at least an outward
appearance of unity in our work. I had no idea what were his
plans. Certainly, he had been given no authority or funds to
build a house. Those had been placed in my hands by the mis-
sion ; and the supposition had been that, when it should be fin-
ished, the two missionaries would live together, as was elsewhere
the custom.
On Sunday, April 25, I held a morning service in Kasa's
village. Mr. Schorsch held a separate one in Ntambi's. I sent
to him for my share of the Sabbath-school alphabet-cards which
were in a box I had loaned him. He refused to let me have
any. I managed along with one old copy. (Later, he yielded
to my reasonable complaint about his refusal, and gave me
some.)
The most valuable article, for purchasing food-supplies, was
salt. Originally, the natives in the Ogowe had almost no salt.
Feeling the need of some condiment besides the indigenous
cayenne-pepper, the skins of ripe plantains and bananas were
sun-dried, and then carefullv reduced to ashes. This grav ash,
/-
MY OGOWE
having a potash taste, they sprinkled on their food. Subse-
quently, the coast tribes, in their interior journeys for slaves,
carried salt which they had evaporated from sea- water (in im-
ported large brass pans called " neptunes "). It was worth al-
most its weight in gold. The interior men reserved it for their
own use, allowing none to women and children. At the time of
my entrance into the Ogowe, white traders had begun to intro-
duce foreign salt. But, it was still so valued an article, that, I.
in purchasing provisions, measured it out, only by the table-
spoonful, into the hand of the native. Little children, standing
by, eagerly picked up any few grains that happened to fall to
the ground, enjoying it, as our civilized children enjoy a piece of
candy.
The rats in my room were very bad. Somehow, they had
gotten into my food-chest, and, carrying off crackers, were
nibbling them in the hollows of the bamboo-walls.
It was pleasant to observe the taste of the women, in adorn-
ing their hair with flowers. This was not common. Usually,
they depended for ornament, on foreign brass jewelry and
bright-colored cloths. There came to evening prayers quite a
company of these women, with wreaths of ferns and flowers.
The evenings were the occasions for social enjoyment. The
people needed it ; my coast tribe employees needed it, to keep
them satisfied; and I needed it, as a means of obtaining that
acquaintance with the heart of the native, without which I felt
sure I would have no influence over them. The antitribal feel-
ing of my Kombe and Galwa. if left alone by themselves, might
have eventuated in a quarrel ; in my presence it amounted to
only amusing banter, in which our Akele townspeople found
much amusement.
Natural cupidity soon showed itself among the people. I
had come to them under privation and difficulty and even dan-
ger, in overcoming the opposition of the coast tribes, and there-
fore I was treated with more than ordinary kindness and civility.
Personally, I was safe. But the sacred character of my work-
was as yet not at all felt or valued. I was only a white man
with goods, which they would obtain in exchange for their na-
tive provisions, at the highest possible price that my necessity
would compel. It was simply the commercial attitude of civi-
lized communities; with, however, this fact in my favor, that
there was no organized boycott, or the threats of a trade union.
When Kasa's people failed to appreciate my presence, by becom-
AT KASA'S TOWN 73
ing too exacting, I could, by the little trouble of a canoe journey
of a mile to an adjoining village, get better prices. But, had I
gone to remain permanently at that other village, the result
would have been the same as at Kasa's.
The days of delay were becoming trying, as I could no nothing
about building during Kasa's absence. Authority for the pur-
chase of the site depended on him. His head-wife, Nwanaja,
came to me in excitement, on April 29, knowing that the news
would interest me, saying that, in a dream, she had seen Kasa.
I jokingly asked her whether, in her dream, she had seen him
coming with a promised goat. For, she had previously told me
that he had gone on his journey to get a goat with which to
welcome me. Kasa returned suddenly on May 4, bringing the
goat! The day was an excited one. King Ondeiie had come
to see me, with his retinue. The townspeople came back from
the forest, where they had buried a woman, who died the day
before. And, in the evening, in the presence of the assembled
crowd, Kasa gave a detailed account (pa) of all the events that
had occurred since my departure in the previous November.
And then, I gave mine. Then, the company wanted to be
amused by being shown some of my new tools; among the rest,
an india-rubber syringe.
I became more anxious to get into my own house ; for, though
I believed (and still believe) it desirable for one to mingle much
with the people for whom one is working, I found it was un-
necessarily trying to live constantly in the midst of their noise
and confusion. On the night of May 5, there was a great deal
of tumult in the street, which prevented my sleep. I felt grate-
ful, when I overheard my Kombe young man pleading with the
people to keep quiet, for my sake. Indeed the question of noise
so influenced me that I decided not to build at the location I had
selected, and told Kasa I would choose a place far from all
villages. This he did not like. But, I told him, I did not mean
to avoid him or people; for, I had made my long journey to
come to people. And, that I would constantly do so, on visits;
and people should visit me. But, that I wanted a place where
I could sleep quietly at night. There were other reasons, which
I did not mention to him, e. g., I wanted a site, whose water-
side landing, and whose spring of water should not be held in
common with any other village or person. (Difficulty had
arisen for me at Mbade, Benita, on both those points.) And,
when, on May 7. some people, for whom Kasa had been wait-
74 MY OGOWE
ing, to consult with them about a certain proposed site, I short-
ened the discussion by informing them that I no longer desired
that place, even as a gift.
My evening chats with Kasa and his people were entertain-
ing and instructive. I learned a great deal about the interior
tribes; their locations, size, dialects, customs; the rivers, moun-
tains, etc., the animals, productions, etc.
In the afternoon, Kasa took me, with quite a number of his
people, a mile down river, to an uninhabited portion of the for-
est, near Mbilye Creek, in order that I might choose a spot
where he and I should build together! I went. But, I reserved
for another day, the destruction of any hope that I would allow
him or any other native to build near me.
Kasa's was a strange character. That he had strength, I saw
by the obedience that was rendered him. He could be severe ;
though I had not often seen it. He was good-humored, not pre-
tending any " kingly " dignity. He was quick to learn and see ;
but was most persistent in his own wishes. He was kind to me,
and often helpful, almost to generosity. But, I always knew,
back of it all, there was greed and expectation of gain ; for, he
was selfish. I liked his camaraderie; but, in making my occa-
sional gifts, felt I was paying a hotel bill. We each were using
the other " position." And, I never trusted him too far.
On Saturday, May 8, events were culminating for my plans.
Aveya and four others of my Galwa employees returned from
Mr. Sinclair's with a small canoe, which they had bought, at my
direction, for $5 (trade). I killed for them the fatted calf, in
the shape of the big goat Kasa had given me, sending also por-
tions to Mr. Schorsch, and to the Xkami trader ReMombi, on
whom I was dependent for favors in the way of sending and re-
ceiving mail, by his occasional canoe-messenger to Mr. Sinclair's
" Aguma " (so named for some large silk-cotton trees near it).
It was worth while to watch and enjoy the intensely hungry ex-
citement of my seven employees, when I handed over to them
an entire half of the goat, for them, not in any usual ration,
but at their own riotous pleasure.
I went again to the forest near Mbilye Creek, with Kasa and
his people, to decide about the site for my house. There, there
was a long "palaver" (talk). The two points of difficulty
were: On my side, that I marked out an area of very many
acres. Not that I really could make use of them all. but because
1 felt sure that 1 would be followed by Kasa or some other chief,
who would desire to live near me. In which case, [ wished my
AT KASA'S TOWN 75
boundary to keep their expected village noises far enough distant
for my peace and quiet. On the part of Kasa, that he wished
to build actually alongside of me !
The matter of an interpreter was a serious one in my preach-
ing. At best, interpreters are a very lame means. Sometimes,
they actually intentionally misinterpreted. Familiar with Benga.
I had hoped to find it useful in the cognate Okota, whose tribe
had been my objective point in entering the Ogowe. But, they
had disappeared. The Dikele was also cognate with Benga, so
that I was able to use it in a smattering way for daily wants. But,
not for preaching. So, until I should acquire Dikele, I had to
speak through one of my Kombes, who passed the words to
Masomami, one of Kasa's young men, who happened to know
Mpongwe. When my words finally reached my Akele audience,
they had passed through five linguistic ranges ! A very slow
way ! Well might such preaching, in its weakness, be called
" foolishness." But God could make use of it.
On Monday, May 11, I went again with Kasa to the ground
near Mbilye, to mark the outlines of the mission premises. He
yielded to my wish as to the northern side ; and the boundary line
was at once actually cut from that point westward to the Ogowe
River, marked by a large bzuibc tree near a kuda tree. That had
evidently been one of Kasa's hunting-grounds; for, there were
remains of a fence used to turn small animals into snares. Then
we went to the top of the small bluff or hill above the landing-
place, and began to clear away the bushes, for the actual site of
the house. After a while, he and I left the men at work, and we
went to the rear, eastward of the clearing, to see where the line
should be cut across a plateau that was enclosed in a large bend
of the Mbilye. I agreed to the limit which he indicated. Then,
he led me back, West and North West to some of the Mbilye low-
lands. As it was marshy, I went no farther. Then, he led me
North East, to the place he had several times before mentioned as
the line for his town near mine. I refused even to speak of it;
and took him back to a certain inlet of the creek, and claimed it
as my ultimatum. Then, we two had a scene that was really dra-
matic. He l>egged and pleaded. I kept the temper of a friend,
but, with eye looking coldly and steadily into his, quietly and
firmly refused. (Africans are afraid of the blue or gray of a
white man's eye. It tells so much more than does their own
black eye. ) He seemed to yield ; and we returned to the clearing.
Evidently, at some time, a traveling coast-tribe man had
camped there; for, there were growing a lime tree and a West
76 MY OGOWE
India bamboo. Those trees are not indigenous to Africa; had
been brought from Jamaica to the Coast ; and thence were car-
ried by coast-tribe traders to the interior. ( Trees sprang from
the seeds of fruits dropped at such camps.) While Kasa and I
were sitting amicably talking, I introduced my denunciation of
foreign intoxicating liquor brought by all the traders, white and
black. Suddenly, he startled me by asking. ''Well! if God is
angry with drunkards, what will become of me?" It gave me
excellent basis for a personal appeal, and for the offer of God's
universal forgiveness of any repented sin. We returned to
Kasa's town, with abundant promises on his part. But. I de-
clined to do any more work at clearing, until he had actually out-
lined and marked (on trees) the entire boundaries. I wanted no
future claims or disputes. In the meanwhile I made visit to King
Ondene. He tried to be courteous, but failed. An initiation
into the great Ukuku or " Vasi " society was in progress. No
woman was permitted to see even the procession, much less any
of the lodge ceremonies. As a man, my seeing the procession
was not resented (at least openly). Yet, I soon became con-
scious that my presence was not desired; and I left. Ondene giv-
ing me only three pitifully small chickens. But. I treasured the
incident, and reserved my indignation at Yasi for a future day.
(It came, four years later.)
On the way back, the crew, though thirsty under the hot sun,
would not drink of the water of the river (as they and I were
constantly accustomed to do) because of the too recent sight of
the corpse of a woman thrown into the river, at Xtambi's town.
At that period, burial was accorded to only persons of distinction.
Slaves, the poor, and especially poor women, were cast either into
the river, a prey to fishes (the natives said that the gavial-croco-
diles ate only bodies which themselves had killed) or, into the
forest, a prey to wild beasts and the scavenger " Driver *' ants.
One of the crew fell into the river, and. in unskill fully scram-
bling again into the canoe, filled it with water, and almost upset
it. (Ogowe canoes are flat-bottomed, and are readily upset.)
So, my legs were thoroughly wet. and chilled before we reached
my room, where I could change for dry clothing.
The next day. I bought of Kasa. at a fair price, a gnat. And
he gave me two good-sized chickens, for Ondene's three little
ones. lie seemed ashamed of the "King's" meanness. My
chickens and goat were to run loose with the town flocks, until I
should wish to claim them. But. the subtile Kasa said nothing
about setting the boundaries of my ground. I feigned indif-
AT -RASA'S TOWN 77
f erence, and said nothing : but, I kept my men at work in cutting-
timber, and shaping window-frames. I was not well enough to
work myself; the wetting of the previous day had given me a
chill, and I was dosing with quinin.
On May 13, there was a horrible odor of some imperfectly
dried elephant skin that was being roasted for Kasa's breakfast.
The natives, in butchering the wild animals they killed for food,
did not skin them (unless they had a special need for the skin for
some other purpose). The hair was only singed off.
A canoe of the man Schmieder, trader for the firm of Woer-
mann, had come to Ivinene's adjacent village, with a barrel of
rum. All day, the village was filled with a noisy drunken crowd.
The liquor was of a particularly bad type, and some of the na-
tives were drinking in wild excess. At night, one of them, one
of Kasa's men, died from the effects. I could not sleep much
that night, with the noises of yelling, shouting, singing, wailing,
and gun-firing. (Firing of guns, as part of an entertainment, in
Africa, takes the place of fireworks in other countries.)
The next day, after Kasa had returned from the funeral of
his man at Ivinene's, he said he was ready for the marking of my
premises. We all went, my people and some of his, in two
canoes. Arrived at the site, he began his usual trouble, of wish-
ing to build by Mbilye Creek, near me. Nwanaja and another of
his women were with us while we talked. Our discussion became
angry ; and she left, to go to her relatives at Mbilye village.
Kasa took me to the line to show me exactly what he wanted. T
was so indignant that I left him, saying nothing, and going away
alone; and. he went alone, for Nwanaja. But meeting her on
her return, they both overtook me. She told me. in his pres-
ence, that her people had assented to my taking the whole ground.
This seemed to settle the matter. I was grateful to her for her
efficient help. As we walked toward the landing where our
canoes were awaiting us, I was impressed with the wildness of
the land I was acquiring. On our path, we started up an ante-
lope in the bushes. Down in the river, hippopotami were snort-
ing and bellowing. And. on our way back, we passed the float-
ing dead body of a man.
On Sunday, May 16, very few persons came to my services.
Kasa and most of his people were off at Ivinene's, where was be-
ing held a witch-craft " palaver," over the cause of the death of
the woman who had died there recently. A woman had been
seized and charged as the witch. I felt greatly depressed at the
joy over the seizure shown by even little boys of the village.
78 MY OGOWE
Like the satisfaction which, in civilization, we feel at the arrest
of a murderer. (In later years I learned to understand the na-
tive point of view ; they really believed that the accused were mur-
derers.) One of my Kombe men, Mwanyatye, had been at the
scene, as a spectator. He told me that the woman was begging
for her life. On Corisco Island, in such cases, I had always
gone and interfered, with some hope of success. For, I spoke
the language freely, and the Bengas had some degree of civiliza-
tion. But, with those Bakele, whose language I could only smat-
ter, and whose civilization was in its rudiments, my interference
would have been in vain. But, I made indignant protests. When
Kasa returned, he avoided me. My people said he was afraid
of me. At sunset, a canoe with Mr. Sinclair and his valet, Osha-
lowe, brought me a mail. My letters! My son William's photo-
graph ! What an interest and excitement Kasa and his people
displayed over my child's picture! Communication by letter was
a comparatively new tiling to them. Their surprise that the boy
could talk to me on paper! They handled the letter as if it was
a living thing; and, to each newcomer, they told over and over
my simple story.
On Monday, May 17, I had a decided talk with Kasa about the
" witches," whom he had threatened to kill. And he had an ex-
cited talk with Mr. Sinclair about his trade; Mr. Sinclair not hav-
ing honored him by locating even a native trader in his village,
a village which he now claimed was greater than King Ondene's,
because a white man (myself) was living in it!
On Thursday the 20th, I went to the clearing with 5hvanaja,
who, since her efficient intervention, was deputed by Kasa to
mark out the remaining outlines of my grounds. T sent my
people along the forest path, for the canoe was too small for us
all. Though the month was May near the beginning of the dry
season (marked by cooler nights), a time when the river would
be expected to run low, it actually rose two feet in twenty- four
hours; thus showing that its sources must be in a different lat-
itude. (The latest maps prove this to be true.)
On Friday, the 21st, I went, with four of my people, in my
small canoe, up river to Mhomi, to buy plantains. Kasa had
been in an ugly spirit, and was venting some spite by demanding
for plantains, an exorbitant price. His women therefore had
hesitated to sell to me sufficient for my people, though 5hvanaja
saw to it that I obtained enough for myself. At Mbomi, I
bought a dozen bunches. While at dinner, an incident hap-
pened. There was there a little child of a Mpongwe trader.
AT KASA'S TOWN 79
Coming from the sea-coast, it was accustomed to some civiliza-
tion, to white faces, to good dress, to table and plate and spoon,
and attractive cooking. Evidently it was petted, and a little
spoiled; for its parents employed a native nurse for it. It had
seen me eating; and it cried persistently until its nurse had
yielded and permitted it to join me in my plate! After I had
eaten, I walked through the villages. While there, a red ante-
lope, and a large python ten feet long, were brought in from the
forest. I would have waited to buy some of the antelope ; but I
saw a storm coming and I left. (I had better waited.) Giving
presents to my kind entertainers, I pushed off. There was a
strong wind blowing up-stream, against the river's rapid cur-
rent, creating a succession of choppy waves. Ogowe canoes
have no buoyancy. They do not rise to a wave ; they simply
cut through it. My canoe was very small. Myself and crew of
four were too many ; and the dozen bunches of plantains sunk the
gunwales to the level of smooth water. In the rough water of
that day, the canoe began to fill, and I thought of turning back ;
but, as there was another canoe accompanying, I decided to take
the risk. Passing rougher water at the mouth of a small creek.
Big Isango, we swamped ; a paddle and the plantains went floating
away; my cooking utensils, box of medicines, and umbrella
sank. We, in the water, clung to the canoe. The other canoe,
that had passed us, returned to our help, bailed our canoe, and
started us again. We overtook and recovered eight of our
plantains. But the storm of wind and rain piled higher waves
as we were passing another point of land, and the canoe again
upset. One of the young men. Xganga, struck out for the shore.
The other three stayed by me, clinging to the canoe, though they
all could swim. I too can swim ; but, I felt it would be impossible
to reach shore in my heavily soaked clothing. Mwanyatye saw
that I was becoming numbed with the cold, and that I with diffi-
culty retained my grasp on the revolving canoe. He wished me
to let go, promising that he would swim with me ashore. I be-
lieved in his willingness and faithfulness, but felt sure I would
be too heavy a weight. I bade good-by to the young men, and
told them to save themselves by swimming ashore. For myself,
I felt that my hands could no longer cling, and that in a little
while I would be at the bottom of the Ogowe. I was not in
pain nor was I afraid. A strange coolness came over me. The
young men saw that that other canoe had seen our
plight and was hasting back to us. It rescued us, and landed us
at the mouth of another creek, Little Isango. One of my crew,
8o MY OGOWE
Oraniga. while clinging to the canoe, had held on also to onr
food-chest, saving it. The plantains were all lost. I sent him
and Mwanyatye in the canoe (the force of the tornado wind hav-
ing somewhat abated), while I walked the forest path with
Nganga and Kengenge to Kasa's. There, the people's anxiety
was very great at the story of my danger. Rwanaja brought me
a pile of plantains, bidding me never again to go elsewhere for
them.
I had been in danger before, during my previous fourteen
years of life in Africa, but never in as great danger as that day.
T learned thereafter, when traveling by canoe, in sight of a com-
ing storm, to run ashore, and wait until the wind was past. Tn
a boat, there was less danger in heading that wind.
Every few days wild animals were brought in from the forest
by the village hunters. The smaller animals were caught in nets.
Among them were porcupines.. T found their meat as tender
as "pork," without anv pork taste; indeed, resembling chicken-
flesh.
Sunday. May 23. Another day of confusion. There was
mourning in Xtambi's village for another death. And in the
afternoon, came a little boy from Xtambi's. in excitement, to tell
me that Mr. Sinclair's Mpongwe trader. Dose, was fighting with
my Galwas. T did not go ; but. I sent my two Kombes. I to be
summoned only if they were unable to separate the combatants.
For a time there was quite an uproar. In the evening
Xwanaja went with the other women to Ivinene's. to dance
" paga " for the sorcerer-doctor who was to find another witch-
victim in place of the young woman T had induced Kasa to re-
lease. He did not seem to understand that I had pleaded for a
principle, and not simply for a personality. Of course, T was
pleased that that young woman had been saved.
May 24. My Galwas were excitable and unreliable: especially
about their monthly accounts. Xot so much in regard to the
amount promised for their wages: but. in pleas to be permitted
to overdraw, or, in objections to the articles with which they
were to be paid. (For all our purchases and payments, at that
time and for many years afterwards, were made, not in cash,
but in barter.) I sent two of them away, on a vacation, to visit
their homes for a while. A third. Kengenge. I had to compel to
leave. Dissatisfied as he had seemed to be. lie did not wish to
leave my service. The pleasantest of the Galwa company was
Aveya.
May 2^. Though living in adjacent villages. Mr. Schorsch
AT KASA'S TOWN 81
and I had almost nothing to do with each other. As he had
announced his entire independence of me, I made no offers or
advances, lest, in his excessively suspicions nature, I should be
charged with interfering. But, on the other hand, in a few in-
stances where he had asked for assistance, I was pleased to give
it. He suddenly decided to go away, and went through the vil-
lages seeking in vain for the loan of a canoe ; for, mine was
too small to contain all his luggage.
My life in the huts, in the canoe, and in the forest, was hard on
my clothes. And the unskilful laundering was still harder. Re-
pairs were frequent. Many hours with my needle ( I never suc-
ceeded in using a thimble) were spent on rents, patches, darns,
and buttons.
May 26. The long delay in beginning the building of my hut
was becoming trying. In a land where time was of no value, na-
tives allowed decisions in matters of utility to drag along for
months. With foreigners, they deliberately played on this as
a diplomacy. For, with white men. time was money; in some
cases, almost life. Restive under delays, the traders obtained
their objects by payments of money. Natives learned to ex-
pect this. I believed that Kasa was playing this same game with
me. I did not yield to it, partly because I had everywhere to
study economy of the mission's money; and. also, because, if T
submitted to domination, I would feel myself in a kind of slavery.
The traders had, in their rum bottle, a lever which served them
in almost all emergencies.
I went again to complete the actual marking of the boundaries
of my premises, going by forest-path, rather than by canoe. In
crossing a frail bridge of poles over a creek, it broke. There
happened to l)e a line of " driver " ants on it. I was covered
with them. That I fell into the creek was no salvation from
them. I know of nothing but fire that will turn them. Of
course, I had to go back to Kasa's. The young man. Upanga.
whom I had left as guard over my goods. I found asleep. I
sharply rebuked him : and. the remainder of the day. he seemed to
try to compensate by being extra-industrious.
In my dealings with all natives, I never adopted the attitude
of most of the traders, i. e., of domination, with actual violence,
in the way of blows, kicks, and lashes. My attitude was that of
affiliation. In it I generally won their respect and love. Mr.
Schorsch, both at Benita and in Ogowe, took the attitude of fa-
miliarity. Natives hailed it as good-fellowship, gathered around
him, for what they could make out of him, and disrespected
82 MY OGOWE
him. As he was unable to get any natives to remain in his
service, at his request, I detailed one of my young men, Alende-
ginye, to serve him. I sometimes, on occasions, ate with my peo-
ple, as my children. Mr. Schorsch took him regularly at his ta-
ble as an equal. But, there came a day when Mr. Schorsch's sus-
picious nature irritably broke into a quarrel. Then the young
man gave way to insulting language, such as he would never have
attempted with me: and, for which a trader would have maimed
him. Mr. Schorsch left on May 28.
On May 29, having collected, during all the delays, a quantity
of poles, thatch, and other building materials, I went in Kasa's
big canoe to the cleared spot on my premises, (called " Belam-
bla") and actually cut the mbingo (saplings) of the frame of
the clay-floored hut, which was to be my step to a more permanent
dwelling. The young trader, who was at Kasa's when I landed
there in 1874, returned. He and his canoe-men were desirous of
learning to read. I found in them a satisfaction for direct mis-
sionary work, in the evenings and on Sundays.
On May 31, my patience broke, under some disappointments.
T had been paying my Galwas regular wages, in order to keep
them on hand ready for work on the hut, whenever Kasa and
Providence would allow me to begin. Now, that I had begun,
those Galwas. who had been paid for simply " being on hand,"
left, dissatisfied with their pay. I felt that I had been feeding
them all these weeks, they doing little or nothing, while waiting
for building materials; and then, when I was ready to begin, they
went away. I also felt depressed by the apparent loss of interest
in me by the villagers, since the native traders had increased in
number. In the evening. T shook off the depression with some-
what of the sentiment of Grenfel's. " 'Tis Dogged as Does it."'
and walking down the street. I chatted with the men, women,
and children, and felt inspirited. At night, there was a large
gathering at the usual prayer-service. And, late into the night, I
was teaching to read.
On Tune 3, the Galwas were back again for work ; and the
day was spent as a successful day at my hut building. With a
memory of my almost fatal ride in the small canoe. I preferred to
walk the distance to the work, though there were several inlets,
through which I had to be carried, where the river water was
backing in. The river continued to rise, though the season was
the dry, and there were no signs of rain. The flood was coming
from interior affluents.
Sunday, June 6, was a day of excitement. A native trader
tt\l
pampoo palm p.uildixg material
Facing j.age S2
AT KASA'S TOWN , 83
came to see me. He came to look after his rubber-trade inter-
ests, not having confidence in a young subordinate, who was
a drunkard, and who was drunk on Sakwele's liquor, which
he furnished that young man, with which to make drunkards of
the Bakele!
In the afternoon, there was a fight. Kasa's sister, the mother
of the lad Mutyi, had left her husband because he became a
polygamist. Polygamy was the universal custom of the country.
Every heathen man planned to become a polygamist as soon
as he could acquire the funds to buy another wife. Some few
women welcomed the added wife; because, being servants and
practically slaves, the new servant helped to divide their work.
Most women, while in their hearts they resented the division of
the husband's love, silently submitted to a custom they were help-
less to resist. A few, like Mutyi's mother, dared to make a pro-
test. She had left her husband's village, and fled to her brother
Kasa for protection. The husband came to Kasa's to claim her,
accompanied by the new woman. The two women quarreled;
the husband became very angry; a third woman interfered; he
cut her across the nose with a knife. Then there was greater
excitement ; Kasa threatened to kill the man ; Sakwele interfered
for peace, declaring that he would remove his trade-house if
Kasa did not quiet down.
Notwithstanding these confusions, many young men came all
day to learn the alphabet. And, in the evening, they were in-
terested in looking at my pictures of civilization and Christianity.
The trust-system of trade had the bad effect of making the na-
tives unwilling to work without pay in advance. For rubber
and ivory that were not yet gathered, they were " trusted " by
the traders. The trusted goods were immediately wasted. Then
came the long indebtedness ; the impossibility of obtaining any
further advances; and, the hard task of working for a joy that
was past, and nothing in expectation. One Akele, Masomami,
had been willing to work for me. When, at the month's end, his
companions saw how many (but really not much) goods he was
getting, that were all his own, and no work yet to be done for
them, they envied him. Fights were frequent. The different
coast-tribe traders were jealous of competition. The Orungu
clashed with Mpongwe. In the evening of that same day,
Sakwele's own Galwas had a fight among themselves. And,
then, the villagers went to a dance under the moonlight!
The building of the hut was proceeding well. The boundaries
of the property, though not formally marked had actually been
84 MY OGOWE
agreed upon. ' Kasa had nothing morose in him. He had
dropped his displeasure about our boundary differences, and was
treating me in a most cordial manner. He gave me the entire
premises as a gift, not even hinting at any return! But. the
affair would not be oriental if there should be no return. I re-
membered Abraham and the Cave of Machpelah. So, Kasa
being in fine humor, I called him. and asked him to name any-
thing he would like to have : for, that I desired to give him what-
ever he should wish. He replied that he would take only what I
might offer. So, with much formality, I spread before him, i
gun, i keg of powder, 2 machetes, 4 brass-rods, some pieces of
crockery, and a number of yards of calico prints. (Actual cash
value to the Mission, only $10 for the 20 acres of ground.) He
was highly pleased, and told me that the land was all mine. That
evening, he arranged a great dance, as a reception for another
wife whom he had recently bought. He asked me for some spe-
cial adornment for the occasion. I loaned him my bath-robe.
And, next day, in the presence of King Ondeiie and other wit-
nesses, he made his " mark." signing the deed for the Belambla
Station Mission-premises. Then. I walked, as usual (because
the dry season wind made the river too rough for my little
canoe) to my building. He and the king followed to inspect it.
While at work, one of my men pointed out Mr. Schmieder's little
steamer coming up the river. I went to the water-side to watch
the unusual sight. Seeing the white man. I lifted my hat to him,
not as a signal, but in ordinary courtesy. He recognized me.
and shouted to me to send a canoe for some freight he had for
me! Hastily sending off my canoe, I soon received treasures of
1 box of oranges. 1 box of young plants (bread-fruit. Avocado
pears, mango plums, etc.. etc.) from Baraka. and a dozen letters
from loved ones in Benita and the United States ! It was a
precious consignment! From those plants, trees are living to-
day at Belambla and other places in the Ogowe.
On June 12. Kasa decided to remove his village, so that he
might be near me. Of course. I could not prevent him or any
one else from building near me. as long as they kept outside of
my lines, fie made a vain effort that I should allow him to in-
clude the coveted spot which he had formally signed over to me.
This convinced me that, whatever pleasant relations 1 should
maintain with him, I would never implicitly trust him. He
would l>e true to me only while it was his interest, as my " pa-
tron," to be so.
I une 14. The days were busy. I, at my building: Kasa. away
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AT KASA'S TOWN 85
on a journey for rubber ; the native traders, Sakwele and Re-
Mombi, unable to loan me the use of their crews to push my
work; my only Akele, Masomami. sick. The water of the river
was rapidly sinking to its normal dry-season shallows. When
I left the town in the morning, a very sick man, Mambolamina,
was sitting alone at the water-side. When I returned in the
evening, he was nowhere to be seen. I suspected that he had
been thrown into the river, as sometimes was done, in tiresomely
long cases of sickness, if the invalid was of poor family and
without friends. The next day I was told that he was dead; but,
they would not tell me what had become of him.
I succeeded in getting some Bakele to work for me at the
hut. By June 17, most of the thatch for the roof was in posi-
tion. I had grown to feel that the place was to be my home. I
felt sadly at leaving it, even temporarily, to go on the long, but
supposedly necessary journey to the Coast, for the semi-annual
meetings of mission and presbytery. The river was low, the
sand-bars appearing, and hippopotami numerous.
I started down river on Friday, June 18, making many visits on
the way, and stopping for the night at a native trader's. On
Saturday, reached Mr. Sinclair's. He was away. And there
were no prospects of any steamers in the dry season. I made ar-
rangements, after I had dismissed to their homes all but one of my
Galwas, Tivino, with Mr. Sinclair's clerk. Mr. Woodward, to
send me and my three men, down the Ajumba Creek, on the
route I had gone in December, 1874.
I started, on Tuesday, June 22, sleeping for the night at Fa-
ngananga's. And, on the 23d, reached Anege's, on Lake Azingo.
He could not obtain for me Fanwe; for, they were just then at
war with clans on the route. I therefore hired three Bakele, at
$3 (trade) apiece for the two days overland. Very early, the
next day, friend Anege took us in his canoe across the lake to the
village where I was to pick up the Bakele, and from which the
actual start of the journey would be made. There was the usual
delay, experienced by all white men on African journeys. Ex-
cuses, by which to weary the hasty white man, and thus induce
him to offer more pay, if the porters will hurry and start at
once. I hired a fourth Akele, paying him $1, in advance,
the other $2, to be paid at Agonjo on the Rembwe, at the end
of our two days' walk. Finally we started, an escort of female
friends, with much shouting and laughing, accompanying my
four Bakele a part of the way. The men took me a different
path from the one of the previous December. When the women
86 MY OGOWE
departed, we breakfasted. The path was good. I did not feel
tired. I carried my Winchester myself; the six men had suffi-
cient of burdens in my luggage. At night, we camped in the
open forest. Xo danger of rain in the long, cool, dry season.
The scene was romantic and adventurous. It appealed to my
childhood desire (that had never died in me) to be a soldier.
The forest was weird, with my flickering camp-fires. I taught
my Bakele the Name of Jesus. Late at night, after I had lain
down on my rubber-lined traveling-rug. f heard them repeating it
among themselves. The next day. the 25th, we were all up be-
fore sunrise, and again on our way. Recognized that we were on
the last year's path. Met many Bakele, who were migrating, in
fear of the Fanwe war. These so alarmed my Bakele, that, when
we stopped for the noon lunch, two of them deserted. The
bundles they honestly left had to be readjusted on my other five.
And, later, on nearing a Fanwe village, a third deserted. The
remaining four men were now very heavily laden ; but, we
reached Agonjo town before sunset, and were welcomed by three
civilized Mpongwe traders, Njombi, Owondo, and " Morris,"
who treated me with great hospitality. A white man of Libre-
ville, a Mr. McFarland, with his cutter, had just come down the
river, on his way to Libreville. I went to his little vessel, to ask
for passage; and slept at Owondo's. The next day, Saturday.
Mr. McFarland kindly offered me passage, saying that he would
start on Sunday, the 27th. Remembering my very unpleasant
Sunday travel of the year before, I thanked him. and said I
would try to hire a canoe on Monday. Very considerately, he
waited a day for me. Having no Sabbath scruples of his own.
he made another trade-journey up-river, returning in the even-
ing of Sunday. I went aboard, and slept there that night. We
successfully reached his Libreville trading-house by 2 a. m. of
Tuesday, the 29th. And, I was at our Baraka mission-house
before morning prayers were over, and welcomed by my friends,
the new missionaries, Mr. and Mrs. J. H. Reading, who, with
their infant baby boy, had recently arrived from the United
States. They had brought for me. from my dear ones of the
United States, abundance of letters, photographs, and gifts, beau-
tiful and useful, of pictures, books, clothing; and a microscope.
stereoscope, case of dental-forceps, a small patent portable stove,
and others.
The next day, I went to the French Government office at the
Plateau, to have the deed of the Belambla mission-property duly
recorded. Several days were spent at Baraka. Mr. Schorsch
AT KASA'S TOWN 87
was there, having left the Ogowe by river steamer, in advance
of me. The meetings were to be held at Benita.
On July 2, the Hudson came, bringing word from my sister
that she was anxiously expecting me ; for, that affairs at Benita
were in a distressing state. After a communion service on Sun-
day, July 4, the members of mission at Baraka started, on the
Hudson, early of Monday, for Benita, stopping on the way at
Elongo Station, Corisco Island, for Rev. C. De Heer. We
reached the Bolondo house before 5 a. m. of the next day. There
were busy days, of welcome, and opening boxes recently arrived
from the United States ; reading of mail ; meetings of presbytery
and of mission; and examination of three candidates for the
ministry. Mr. Schorsch resigned (?) the offices, of which he
had been deprived at the previous quarterly meeting.
On Wednesday, July 7, the meetings adjourned, and the other
members left on the Hudson, I remaining to visit with my sis-
ter and her associate, Miss Lydia Jones.
The Hudson returned on the 14th. The next day I went early,
with a large Kombe canoe I had bought (more buoyant than the
Ogowe kind) and three new recruits. Manga, Ekomba, and
Ikunduku, to the Mbade house of Mr. Menkel. There I bap-
tized his little Katy. And then, boarding the vessel, with my
sister and Miss Jones, we started for Corisco. Stopped there
on the 17th, to land my sister for a visit there. And, on the
22d, the journey on the Hudson, with Miss Jones, was resumed
to Libreville, arriving there just before sunset of the 23d. There
I found seriously ill Mrs. Bushnell, and little Arthur, the infant
son of my friends Mr. and Mrs. Reading. I remembered my
own little George Paull, of almost ten years previously, at Benita,
and devoted my most intense medical attention to the little child.
But, he died on Tuesday, July 2.J. That night, I was assisted, in
the arrangement of the coffin by the three ladies, the Misses Jones,
Lush and Dewsnap, Mrs. Bushnell being still confined to her
bed.
A letter recalling Mr. Schorsch had arrived from the Board in
New York. There was confusion also in regard to his case, as
he had disappeared : supposed to have returned to the Ogowe.
On August 2, the Hudson was sent to Corisco, to bring Mr. De
Heer for a specially called mission meeting. The vessel returned
on Wednesday, the 4th, with Mr. De Heer, and bringing me the
distressing news of my sister's sickness at Elongo Station. A
meeting was held in regard to Mr. Schorsch. At the same time
a troublesome letter was received from native Licentiate, Ntaka
88 MY OGOWE
Truman, located at Nengenenge out-station, sixty miles up the
Gaboon River.
T was anxious to get back to my Ogowe work, and, believing
that the coast monopoly had been broken and that I would have
no difficulty from it, I decided to ascend the river in my canoe.
On August 6, on the Hudson, with the canoe in tow, I started for
Nazareth Bay. The vessel was detained two hours at the
French guardship by some government red-tape. So that, we
lost the favorable morning wind, and met the opposing afternoon
sea-breeze. That little vessel was poorly built, and could not
sail into an opposing wind ; progress could only be made by con-
stant long slow tacks. How much I suffered, for years, from per-
sistent seasickness, in my necessary voyages on the vessel ! In
sight of the Nazareth mouth of the Ogowe, we ran aground.
While waiting for the tide to clear us, an Orungu boat with a
man whom I had met up the Ogowe, came alongside and stated
that Mr. Schorsch had already gone up the river. As I had the
Board's official letter for him, it was desirable to be positive as
to his whereabouts. So, I went ashore a long way in my
Benita canoe (which had been a great hindrance to the Hudson's
progress) to make inquiries at villages. On the way, I met an-
other native boat, whose crew confirmed the statement as to Mr.
Schorsch's movements. Not only had the ebb tide stranded the
Hudson, but. while returning to the vessel, I discovered a shark
stranded also. My crew attempted to capture it, but. it suc-
ceeded in wriggling into the deeper water.
When finally the tide rose, and the cutter floated at night,
there was an exciting run under the moonlight and before a fair
strong wind towards the river's mouth. We edged along the
sand-bar, constantly throwing the lead. For a long way, there
was the anxious, " i fathom!" " i fathom!" fearing every sec-
ond that we might again ground on less than that. Then, the
nervous tension was relieved by, "2 fathom!" ''2 fathom!"
And, presently, we were safe in " 3 fathom ! " " 4 fathom ! " : and
as the wind changed, and was opposing, we anchored for the
nijdit some ten miles from the river's mouth.
CHAPTER VIII
UP THE OGOWE BY CANOE AUGUST, I 875
1HAD twice ascended the Ogowe by steamer; for the first
time I was to attempt it, from the mouth by canoe.
The Hudson had finally reached the mouth, on the night
of the 9th. Leaving the vessel, about 7 a. m. of Tuesday, Au-
gust 10, in my canoe, with a crew of three Kombes, one Galwa,
Tivino, and a passenger, Okalanga (passengers paid their way
by paddling equally with the crew). "Good-by! v was waved
from the Hudson's United States flag. Breakfasted, about 10 a.
m., in the mouth of a small inlet, in the Mangrove Swamp. My
breakfast consisted of roasted native mcvdndd (cassava roll),
oily udika (kernels of the wild mango), bread and butter, and
potted ham. As I met canoes during the day, I inquired about
Mr. Schorsch ; they had not met him. When twilight fell, I
looked for a resting-place among the bamboo palms. Afraid of
possible hippopotami ashore, I slept in the canoe.
The next day, Wednesday, August n, I reached Angala, the
village of King Esongi. He was exceedingly pleased that I knew
his name. That gratification is universal, in civilization and in
savage countries. In Africa. I cultivated the ability to remem-
ber native names ; and, I attribute to that fact, a large measure
of my acceptance by the natives, and my success with them. In-
stead of a blunt "Mbolo!" they recognized friendship and fel-
lowship in my "Mbolo, Such-an-one ! " At Angala. I was in-
formed that Mr. Schorsch had passed there. In the afternoon,
another village told me that Mr. Schorsch in his little canoe had
stopped there a few days before, had been sick unto fever, and, in
his delirium had attempted to throw himself into the river.
Farther on, I passed a village, at which the people said that Mr.
Schorsch had stopped, on his w-ay down the river in June. Look<fc
ing for a sleeping-place. I entered an exceedingly muddy rivulet,
whose banks however were sufficiently high, but, the ground was
not dry. I had a few boards in the canoe, with which I made a
hasty flooring on which to spread my traveling rugs. It was not
an ideal place : for. I had seen one snake wriggling into its hollow
tree and another (a pc), the deadlv cerastes, at the edge of the
89
9 o MY OGOWE
water. And, there were many sounds at night, of birds, and ani-
mals, and of fish flopping in the water, and an adjacent hippo-
potamus.
The next day, Thursday the 12th, I passed old King Njagu's
place, in the Nkami tribe; and also the site of " Johns' Rest," of
the previous September on the Pioneer.
The dry-season wind was very strong, and raised waves that
tried my nerves. My umbrella, acting as a sail, became a hin-
drance, and I closed it; though, in so doing, my eyes suffered.
The night camp in the forest was a poor one; noises of mos-
quitoes, monkeys, parrots and bats. And, the water I drank
had brought on a severe diarrhea. (At that time I had not
learned the importance of using boiled water on a journey.)
As I was somewhat exhausted, I stopped at Chief Isagi's town
though it was only the middle of the afternoon of the 13th.
Isagi gave me but little courtesy. I think he was afraid of me,
I being " a God-man." But, his women were attentive; and his
little son, Okavi, attached himself to me. The child, in his sim-
plicity, told me some of the village scandal, as current news!
When I responded with my news of God, he said he thought
the God was " a white man." Isagi was beating one of his
slaves for having spoiled one of the fetish-charms. I saw there
the bones of three gorillas, a male, a female, and a child. I had
not then the scientific interest in the gorilla, which I developed
ten years later, or I would have tried to buy the specimens. On
Saturday, August 14, I proceeded up a back creek, on the right
bank, to avoid the rough water of the main stream. This was
the middle of the Ogowe delta. I passed the mouth of a stream
leading to Lake Azingo. In the creek, were many large birds
of the heron kind; never before had I seen so many pelicans
and monkeys.
I was reaching the limits of the Galwa tribe, and met with
canoes, in one of which was one of my former employees,
Kengenge. I had often to cross that creek, out of direct route,
to avoid herds of hippopotami.
I emerged again into the main stream ; and shortly after sun-
set, was glad to stop at Igenja, the town of Ombya-ngwana. the
last year's pilot of the Pioneer. It also was the home of my
passenger, Okalanga, who was vociferously welcomed. I was
too sick to hold any evening-prayers : and the people in their curi-
osity were noisy and obtrusive. I slept the sleep of exhaustion :
and was glad to disrobe. In the helplessness of seasickness on
the Hudson, and the houselessness of my camps in the low for-
UP THE OGOWE BY CANOE 91
ests, I had not undressed for nine days. Rest, on Sunday, Au-
gust 15, with a comfortable bath, a reasonable bed, and the pro-
tection of a roof, were real medicines. I tried to hold a religious
service with the people ; but, it was very lamely done, aside from
my weak physical condition. Not knowing the Galwa dialect, I
spoke in Benga through an interpreter who understood little of
either Benga or of the Story of the Cross I was telling. But,
I spent much time in teaching those who wished to learn to read.
The day was marred by a continuous quarrel between a man
and a woman who did not wish to be his wife. As usual, in
such cases, might carried the day. I went to bed indignant at
the man's treatment of the woman.
With returning health, on Monday, the 16th, I resumed the
journey, by early 5 a. m., daylight. One sign of health I
noticed at that time (and I have marked it until the present day),
i. e., enjoyment in drinking water. If I was thirsty, and water
" tasted good," I was sure that my system was in good condi-
tion. But, if I had no longing to drink, and water gave me no
satisfaction, then, I knew that something was wrong, and that
I needed either medicine or change in diet. As the canoe passed
close to the heavily wooded banks of the river, in the early
morning, I heard the loud outcries of chimpanzees. As I passed
villages, frequent call (from those who had not yet learned who
I was ) was, " Stop ! we wish to buy rum ! " The missionary was,
as yet, new in that part of the river ; all the few other white men
were dealers in liquors. Whatever else of the " good things " of
foreign trade he did not happen to have, the trader was sure to
have with him, at least, rum. With it, he could always, at any
time, everywhere, buy anything, in all the range, from food for
himself and crew, to a female companion at night.
In passing Ngomu, at the mouth of the exit of Lake Onanga,
I met two Orungu canoes of John Apoma and another
Mpongwe trader, whose little child I had seen at Mbomi. They
were on their way to Gaboon. They told me that Mr. Schorsch
was sick at Mr. Sinclair's. I sent word by them of my progress,
to the friends at Baraka. Progress was slow against the
Ogowe's strong current, in a heavily laden canoe, with only four
paddles. We failed to reach the village of one of my men,
Tivino, before night, and, in an unusual dry-season rain, stopped
at Aramba's village, Aromba, where I had spent a Sunday in the
previous April journey. Though the people gave me no gifts,
and asked large prices for their peanuts and fish, I was pleased
that I was welcomed by the young men, and especially by the chil-
92 MY OGOWE
dren, one of whom, a little boy, came and seated himself on my
knee.
On the next day, August 17, with an early start, we soon
came to Ti vino's village, where he was accorded a loud wel-
come. A messenger was sent to call his wife and child, who
were temporarily absent. She and his father made me presents
of food, for my safe care of him at the sea-coast. Hired a new
man 55andi-ki-yemba. At a village where I stopped for the night,
I met a slave who had run away from Corisco. His language
was a curious mixture of Benga, Galwa and English. As I had
lived on Corisco, he was pleased to talk about persons and places
there. Of all the missionaries, he remembered meeting only
Rev. Mr. De Heer. I bought there skins and an idol. Of such
things I have given away very many as curios, to friends in the
United States.
On the 1 8th, with an early start, I reached Mr. Sinclair's by
11.30 a.m., in time still for "breakfast." In the traders'
cuisine, they ate a small informal hasty meal in the morning.
Then, "breakfast" at 11.00 a.m.; informal cups of tea and
crackers in the mid-afternoon; and, a hearty course-" dinner "
at night. Mr. Schorsch was there, looking very poorly. Mr.
Sinclair told me of Mr. Schorsch's vagaries, to the point of loss
of reason. After breakfast, in our room alone, I handed him
the official letter of his recall by the Board. This man, who had
insulted and oppressed my sister to the point of injury to her
health, and who had annoyed me in a multitude of ways, to the
point of arousing the Benita mob to drive me away, broke down,
and made a voluntary and pitiably humble acknowledgment of
all his wrong-doings toward my sister, myself, and the Mission.
He begged me to "allow" him to remain in the Mission! He
knew I had influence, though 1 assured him that the action,
on which the Board based its recall, was of the entire Mission,
and not of myself or any one alone. Whatever resentment I
had against him disappeared, when, all his arrogance gone, on
bis knees he begged me to retain him as my personal servant,
to be, as he said, my "hewer of wood and carrier of water"!
That he could make such a proposition was itself evidence of
unbalanced mind. It would not have been safe or wise even if
in any way possible, for me to have kept him.
CHAPTER IX
WITH AN INSANE COMPANION AUGUST, 1875
AS Mr. Schorsch had no funds, his status as a missionary
gone, he could get no farther supplies from the traders,
and he would have to leave the river. But, it would not
be safe for him to journey alone, even if natives had not been
afraid to travel under his insane authority. In his helplessness,
the only solution of the difficulty was for me, tired as I was
with my nine days' canoe journey up the 130 miles of the river,
and anxious as I was to get back to my work at Kasa's, to turn
and go down again, escorting Mr. Schorsch to the river's mouth.
He submitted, apparently gratefully. But. I never was sure,
in dealing with him, of how much of cross-planeing his dis-
eased mind was capable.
So. the next day, August 19, I started again in the canoe,
with Mr. Schorsch, down river. At night, in the village where
we slept, he was in a very excited state, and uttered thoughts of
suicide.
He was full of suspicions. When, on the 21st, I shot an
iguana, as food for my crew, he seemed shocked at my cruelty
( ?) in killing the animal. (I have never killed animals simply
for the sake of killing.) Such sensitiveness was part of his
disordered mind, considering how regardless he had been of the
rights and feelings of his fellow missionaries.
At Onanga's Nkami's village, where the people politely pre-
sented- me with fish and a fowl, again Mr. Schorsch was dis-
tressed, actually suspecting that those articles were a safe and
purchase of himself! Late in the evening, we reached Angala.
The next day. Sunday, was passed quietly at that village. I
needed the rest and a bath. Chief Esongi was intelligent in his
chat. I held a service with his people. Mr. Schorsch was more
rational in his conversation. Indeed, talking seemed to relieve
him ; he needed to give vent to his fears and suspicions. A cer-
tain man. Koruma, of Cape Lopez, with a canoe-load of slaves,
stopped at Angala. on his way to the Cape. And, when I and
the slaver resumed our respective journeys shortly after mid-
night (the moon being bright, and I anxious to finish my task),
93
94 MY OGOWE
Mr. Schorsch expressed the absurd fear that I intended to sell
him to that slaver!
Between 8 a. m. and 9 a. m. of the Monday, I reached a little
island near the river's mouth, where Mr. Schmieder was locat-
ing a new trading-house, as a sop to the Orungu, and where was
lying at anchor his little tug-like river-steamer. At once. T dis-
persed my men to the adjacent villages, some to buy food, and
others to find some large comfortable boat or canoe, for Mr.
Schorsch's seventy-mile sea-journey to Libreville.
A Mpongwe sub-trader, Ogombedenge, and his wife,
Anyingila ("Agnes ") came to visit me. She had been a most
troublesome and disorderly schoolgirl at Baraka, during my
short occupancy of it, in the spring of 1871. But, she had set-
tled down into a very submissive wife.
My men returned, bringing abundance of mcvandd, plantains,
fowls, and fish, for the voyage to Libreville, and reported that a
large and comfortable canoe, belonging to Ogombedenge. avail-
able for my purpose, was daily expected from up-river. Mr.
Schorsch and I slept that night on the deck of the little steamer.
He seemed more quiet, and less unreasonable.
On Tuesday afternoon, the big canoe arrived. T allowed my
men to show their joy (joy that we should soon return up-
river) by giving it a salute from my Winchester. Mr. Schorsch
began to be alarmed, as, for the first, he fully realized the fact
that I was not going to Libreville, and that, for the rest of the
way, he would be under the care of the natives. And, my
troubles increased, with the almost inevitable haggling about
pay. Four Orungu men had asked $2 (trade) apiece for the
voyage. I had agreed on $1.50. each for five men. But, T
felt sure that they would make a " strike." at the last. There was
delay in some repairs to the canoe, and alterations for Mr.
Schorsch's comfort. I stood by, giving measurements to the
carpenter. At night Mr. Schorsch's suspicions came out again ;
and, for the first, my patience broke, and I answered indignantly
his charge that he had seen me making marks on the canoe
where the crew should cut him! YVe again lay down on the
deck that night ; but. I slept little. I did not know what thoughts
of murder there might be in his heart. He and I alone, he
could have thrown me into the sea.
The expected haggling did come next day. The Orungu
wanted a crew of eight at S3 apiece. I settled tor five at S3
apiece: and Ogombedenge kindly gave me three of his own men
for nothing. With a strong crew of eight, with paddles, the
WITH AN INSANE COMPANION 95
men would not have to depend on their sail. Well provided
with food, Mr. Schorsch started on Wednesday, August 25,
Ogombedenge, with my canoe and my crew, escorting him out
of the river, to assure me that there would be no delay at the
village at the mouth, and that the canoe was actually out at sea.
(Mr. Schorsch was kindly treated by the men, as their wages,
on my written order, were to be paid at Baraka, only on con-
dition of their safe delivery of him at Libreville.)
RETURN UP RIVER.
Then, on Thursday,. August 26. I began again another week's
journey in ascent of the river. On the way, I observed, for the
first time, the handsome blossom of the pandanus (screw-pine).
Reached Angala before sundown, having been able to make the
thirty-mile run in one day, because of the good tide, and the
canoe being practically without any load. Traveling next day,
with various incidents, to a forest-camp at night. The next
day. to a village opposite to Ngumbi, where I remained over
Sunday (pleasanter than at Isagi's, across the river). The next
day, to Igenja. And, the next, to the village of my man, Tivino,
beyond Oranga. And, on the next, Wednesday, September 1,
reached Mr. Sinclair's, at sundown. The exposure on the way
had given me ague-chills : and my feet were sore with the drv-
season chigoes that had infested me at Angala. and, to which
I had been unable to give proper attention. I had to make an
inventory of Mr. Schorsch's effects, and arrange for sending
them to him.
My feet broke out with ulcers, from the neglected chigoe pus-
tules.
On Sunday. September 5. there was no opportunity for
preaching at Aguma. I remember the beauty of the evening,
as I sat on the veranda admiring the views across the river to
the distant hills on the Ngunye affluent.
CHAPTER X
RETURN TO KASA's, AUGUST, 1 875
OX Monday, the 6th of September, I was trembled about
reports that Bakele had been building on my Belambla
premises. So. as my feet were slightly better, and
leaving some of my belongings to be brought by a canoe of Mr.
Sinclair's a few days later, I hasted up river, on the 7th. A
frequent annoyance, for years, in travel, was that I was limited
in my plans for stopping at certain places, by the fact of some
one of the crew having a "palaver" (feud) of either his own
or of his family at a particular place; and, he would fear to
be seen there. In later years, when I had become acquainted
through the whole river. I was able to assure my crew that my
simple presence would protect them. And. it was so. The man
in the case might feel uneasy, and the villagers might look ask-
ance at him, and might go so far as to mutter to him, " Wait!
until we catch you. when the white man is not with you! " But,
the personal respect that was accorded me. together with the
common tribal law of hospitality that protected not only the
visitor but his retinue also, prevented any assaults on my crew.
During the day. on the way. at a village. T had been warmly
recognized by a woman. Bya-utata, one of Chief Avyake's wives,
who had enjoyed listening to the singing of the hymns by
Ingumu and myself, in the previous year.
That evening, a convenient stopping-place would have been at
the young Chief Anyambe-jena's. But he never had treated me
courteously. So I passed, intending to sleep in the forest.
Rut. I yielded to my crew, who, though tired as they were,
paddling after dark, wished to go farther, to a little island,
where trader Sakwele had his house. They wished for society.
And. his wife could understand a little of my Kombes' language.
The next day. Wednesday. September 8, we passed a hippo-
potamus at the same spot where one had pursued us in the pre-
ceding June. The men picked up from a sand-bar a small saw-
fish. It had been recently killed, probably by an alligator: and
only its head had been eaten. 1 was surprised, all the way. at
sight of the number of new villages that had sprung up during
96
RETURN TO KASA'S 97
my three months' absence at the Coast. I stopped at Avyake's,
to eat our noon meal. Tobacco smoke had always been a dis-
tress to me. I could not allow it in the boat or in my house,
or during work hours, though I did not forbid it on the prem-
ises. The long seasicknesses of my ocean-steamer voyages had
been intensified by the inconsiderateness of fellow-passengers in
their disregard of the vessel's prohibition of smoking in the
saloon. And, as a guest in native huts, my request for a cessa-
tion of their smoking in my presence was almost always politely
regarded. But, that day, a certain man persisted, and I made
complaint to my host, on my guest-right ; and he rebuked the
offender. I stopped at King Ondene's, to make him a present
(commonly miscalled, a " dash "). He told me that it was not
true that my Belambla premises were being trespassed. My
fear was not entirely relieved. As I passed Mbilye village, the
people called for me to wait for one of Kasa's men, Disingwe,
who wished to go with me. I did not choose to wait, being still
displeased with the thought of that report about trespass. Di-
singwe followed me to Belambla ; and we walked over the
premises. It was not true that there had been no trespass. I
saw where people had begun to clear ; but, they had not actually
built. He seemed very anxious to show that Kasa had inter-
fered to prevent. I was pleased with his apparent interest; but,
I had learned to doubt the sincerity of Kasa's movements.
Proceeding, I was recognized in the passing canoe, and was
received with vociferous welcomes. As I approached Kasa's at
dusk, I fired a salute of five shots from my Winchester. It was
a common practice among the trading-canoes ; was an announce-
ment of one's own dignity; and a recognition of the importance
of the village chief. People came running to the landing,
among them Masomami, and Kasa's sister, and young lads Mutyi
and Kimagwe and Mokun. The Nkami trader, ReNjega, was
there.
The next day, Thursday, September 9, I remembered my mis-
taken kindness of a year previous, in which I had allowed the
men several days' rest at the end of the long journey : and, then,
had met with murmurs when I set them to work. So, without
delay, I set them all at cleaning my guns, shoes, fishing-net,
rusted tins, etc.. etc. In looking over my goods left in Kasa's
care, I found them all in good order, except that he had broken
my cane-seated folding easy-chair, evidently by an excessive use
of it. But, that was part of the price I had to pay for having
a native "chief" as my friend! (Indeed, it was not only a
98 MY OGOWE
" native friend " who thus used and abused my furniture, a
white missionary friend did the same thing once while I was in
the United States on furlough.)
I was pleased that more of the Bakele were now willing to
work for me. Masomami's good example was followed by
Mitimambi and Dumawebe (a brother of ftwanaja) : and three
boys came regularly to my little school, Mutyi, Bideli, and
Kimagwe. I rewarded ftwanaja and Masomami each $2.50,
for their care of my goods while I was away, not an iota of
which had been stolen. Also, I gave to her a dress which Mrs.
De Heer of Corisco had kindly sent for her. She did not know
how to put it on ; so, I showed her ; and then she started out to
exhibit it on the street. At night, there was a good service.
And afterward Disingwe came to present me with chickens, and
to tell me of a witchcraft murder.
I kept anniversary days. Friday, September 10, was the fifth
anniversary of the death of Mrs. Mary C. Nassau. I had writ-
ten of its memory, for his mother, to my son Charles, a few
days previous. It was a fitting work, by which to mark the day,
that I resumed my building, gradually each day taking a portion
of my goods away from Kasa's. T started early, with materials
T had accumulated, thatch, doors, tools, etc.. with five men and
four boys, to my hut-building. Several other boys came along,
of their own will, to help. Nwanaja also came, to manifest her
interest in the progress of the hut.
Sunday, September 12. was the fourteenth anniversary of my
landing on Corisco Island. T had a large collection of people
at the morning service: and Ikunduku helped teach the children
in a little afternoon Sunday-school. The next day. Monday,
the 13th, the start for work was delayed by our going to an
adjacent point to watch four elephants which were swimming
across the river. Then, I had to make payments to Mawale and
his women for their plantains, yams and sugar-cane. Then,
native trader Dose's canoe came, on its way down river to Mr.
Sinclair's; and I took the opportunity to write short letters to
him, and to Mr. Reading, at Libreville. Gaboon. So, having
begun the work on the hut late. I ran it on until dusk; and
returned to Kasa's. Rut. the work had so progressed, that, in
order to save the carrying back and forth of the tools, chest of
goods, etc.. I left them with Tivino and Ekomba, to take care of
them, in the almost finished first room of the hut, enough of it
being completed, for their sleeping there. They dreaded to re-
main in the lonely forest; for. a heavy storm was coming of
RETURN TO KASA'S 99
thunder and lightning, which broke just after I reached Kasa's.
It was the opening of the rainy season.
The next day, the 14th, was a successful one. That first
room's enclosing was completed, and the clay floor leveled.
People from adjacent villages came to see and to sell. And, at
night, at Kasa's, was a good evening prayers, with interesting
questions by the people about the future life.
The next day, the 15th, in going by canoe, we followed a live
floating alligator. It disappeared. But, presently we found one
which had been shot at the day before; it had grounded on a
sand-bar. My men were exultant over their prize. As we
towed it to my landing, the villages we passed joined with shouts
in our joy. Some time was required in carefully removing the
skin, which I wished to preserve, and in dividing to the hungry
friends who gathered about the scene. I gave one-third to my
men for the day; one-third for them to dry for future use; and
one-third to my Bakele friends, among them, of course, were
Nwanaja and others of Kasa's women. All this made confu-
sion ; and there was not much building done. People came to
sell sweet potatoes, rough-hewn planks, rattan-twine, thatch,
plantains, yams, and fish. Sakwele arrived with some of the
boxes I had left at Mr. Sinclair's to be forwarded to me. The
next day, Thursday, the 16th, enough more of the hut was
done to justify my leaving two more men also to sleep there.
1 returned late in the evening to Kasa's, to lodge there for the
last time. A few more days' work, or, at most, a week, I hoped
would complete the hut.
CHAPTER XI
THE BELAMBLA HUT OCTOBER. l8/5
ON Friday, September 17, I removed my goods from
Kasa's and established myself at my Belambla
grounds, although only one of the five rooms was per-
fectly complete as to doors, windows, bedstead, shelves, etc. It
was only of native materials, but larger and more carefully built
than an ordinary hut. That very afternoon, I was made indig-
nant at the persistent efforts of some of the people to build on
the premises. I smelled the smoke of burning brush on the
eastern side, and went with Menga to see about it. Discovered
two women on the ground where, a few days before, I had seen
a clearing begun. When they saw me. they fled, abandoning
their jug of water. This I seized, and took to my hut ; and
then went to the adjacent village to complain. On my return.
Disingwe followed me, and professed to be angry at the people
who had made the clearing. Some of the people, by my delay
at the sea-coast, believing I would not come back, had begun to
clear on my premises, for a village. At Kasa's protest, they had
stopped and built elsewhere, but very near the boundary line.
Now, one man, unwilling to lose his labor of the clearing, began
to make a garden on the spot. He made me much trouble. I
had to wait for Kasa's return from his journey, for the settle-
ment of that matter. T was much disturbed about it. T liked
the Bakele ; had no desire to hold them at a distance. But, my
experiences in Kasa's village, with its daily excitements and con-
fusions, had made me refuse, not only to build there, but any-
where else near a village. I had selected Belambla. because it
was near enough to a population for my meeting with and talk-
ing to them, when I should visit them, or they me, and, yet.
far enough for me to have restful quiet hours when I needed
them for school or other intellectual work. I believed I had
conquered in my contest with Kasa, in that matter. And. now,
in the very beginning of my residence on my own ground, to
have Disingwe's people actually do what Kasa had not dared to
do. was outrageous. I did not know in whom to believe. I
was not sure that Kasa himself was not back of it all.
THE BELAMBLA HUT 101
The next day, Saturday, the 18th, Disingwe and Shakwame
(the younger of the two offending women) came, and I had a
talk with them. An old man, Joba, joined in the discussion.
All promised to behave. While I distrusted their sincerity, I
still hoped that the affair would end well. That people had
much to be taught yet, of the simplest things. They had not
ceased to ask me for liquor.
Sunday, September 19, was a clear, bright day; and many
people came from the adjacent villages to my services; among
others, Sakwele and his crew stopped, on their trade-journey
down river. After he had gone, at the close of the meeting, I
invited Nwanaja and five other women, with the trader ReNjega
(Lord-of-leopards) to remain to dinner with me. Other men
stayed around, looking longingly; but, I neither invited them,
nor gave them food. ( It was oriental that uninvited ones should
gather around a feast, e. g., Lazarus.) Doubtless, they thought
it very strange that ivomen had been invited instead of them-
selves. Among them was a man, Semegwe, at whom I felt in-
dignant when he remarked that I ought to have prepared rum
to distribute to my friends! (That is what the Roman Catholic
priests did when subsequently they entered the Ogowe.) He
had known me for a year ; and, yet, my constant protests against
the liquor traffic, seemed to have failed to make him understand
that my doing without liquor was a matter of principle, and not
of economy or neglect. In the afternoon, my composure was
spoiled again, observing smoke rising from the clearing, about
which I had had trouble only the day before. I began to ques-
tion whether my refraining from violence was being misunder-
stood for weakness. I even began to debate with myself whether,
if the heads of the villages persisted in allowing (perhaps en-
couraging) the women thus to make gardens on my grounds, I
should not leave the Akele tribe, and go down river to the Galwa
or Nkami, who were better acquainted with white men and their
rights.
On Monday, the 20th, there was loud shouting on the opposite
side of the river, and news of Fanwe having killed one Akele
and wounded another. This was the beginning of what eventu-
ally proved to be a revolution in the tribal conditions of that
part of the Ogowe. A year previously, there had been reports
that the great Fariwe tribe of the Interior, that subtended at
least 100 miles of the equatorial coast, and who had at that time
appeared at Libreville and a few other points, were advancing
down the Ogowe. Now, those reports were proved true. The
102 MY OGOWE
tribe had emerged on the right or northwest bank of the river,
and had come into conflict with the Bakele of that bank, who
were now beginning to flee to my left bank. A year later, the
difficulties became more pronounced. And, ten years later, the
entire river was practically in possession of the Fanwe. I went
to the adjacent village, to make complaint of the abuse of my
grounds, of the preceding day. The " palaver " was unsatis-
factory. The Akele man was actually insulting; and I indig-
nantly left. On returning to my hut, through the forest, my
indignation was increased at finding some men hunting. They
took my remonstrance smilingly, saying that hunting over
grounds was not an offense, as they were taking only animals
and not land, and that wild animals belonged to anybody ! Per-
haps I should not have felt offended at their logic, considering
how, even in civilized lands and against civilized laws, hunters
constantly trespass on farmers' fields and woods.
The next day, September 21, Disingwe visited me. I spoke
severely to him about the matter of my premises. Kasa's father
came, and tried to assure me that the affair would be properly
settled. The native African's viewpoint of time is oriental ; next
month will do as well as to-morrow. This is trying to an
occidental, who looks at time, to-day and now. I sent to Kasa's,
to remove the very last of my belongings, as my hut was being
so rapidly completed, that I now had space for almost every-
thing. In the matter of domestic arrangements. I was much
better off than I had expected to be in the wilderness. The
Kombe young man, Ikunduku, having obtained some skill from
the Benita ladies, was actually able to cook me some pan-
cakes.
On Wednesday, the 22d. I did not superintend work. I left
it to Manga's eye, though I knew very well that the work would
go slowly and perhaps imperfectly. I spent the day in writing
letters to my children and to mission friends. But, one of the
men I detected smoking, and fined him ten cents. The reason
for the prohibition of my people's smoking during work-hours
was, because they lost so much time adjusting and relighting
their pipes. I found that the location of my little mission-sta-
tion was a more favorable one. for buying necessaries, than had
been Kasa's. I readily obtained more, and at better prices, food,
and building materials, and curios. Among the latter were some
small elephant tusks, and a monkey. All my African life, I col-
lected such curios. Every time I came on furlough to the
United States, I gave them all away to my relatives, or to the
THE BELAMBLA HUT 103
kind friends at whose homes I was entertained, or as marriage-
gifts, or as contributions to museums.
In the evening, Disingwe came, to appease with a present, my
displeasure of the preceding day. His wife accompanying him,
also made a small gift, of sugar-cane; and, according to custom,
I responded, with a piece of soap. Soap was one of my most
frequent responses. I emphasized the gospel of soap!
On Thursday, the 23d, I sent my canoe with letters and for
goods, down-river, to Air. Sinclair's Aguma. The crew were
the three Kombe, one Galwa, and one Akele. The other Bakele
failed to appear. I think that they were afraid they would be
sent on the journey. So, I was alone. I spent the day in hoe-
ing a little garden, and leveling the ground near the hut. People
came to sell; I bought a chicken and " bush "-lights (torches of
gum of okume, the African mahogany). I sat late and alone
at night, reading my United States newspapers and books, by
light of a candle, a bush-light and a great fire of logs. It was
quite romantic, all alone there in the forest. It appealed to my
suppressed spirit of adventure and my boyhood's desire to be a
soldier. There were no living beings near me (unless unseen
wild ones) besides my goat and chicken and monkey. I am sure
that the goat felt lonely; his occasional cry was diagnostic.
The rain fell heavily.
On the 24th, I went off to a corner of the boundary, where
I heard chopping, and found two women cutting firewood.
They said they did not know that that was trespass ; that they
were not taking my Ian d, only wood ! They seemed so innocent,
that I could not be angry with them. I remembered how, in
boyhood in the United States, with no consciousness of wrong-
doing, I had gone nutting into farmers' woods, without thinking
of asking permission.
The Akele lads came to their work, accompanied by Mutyi's
mother. She cooked me some tasteful ngdndd (a pudding of a
rich oily gourd-seed).
On September 25, my canoe returned with unexpected prompt-
ness. Rather, I should have expected them ; for, the Kombe and
the Akele had no tribal friend to tempt them. The Galwa, Ti-
vino, was tempted, and failed to return. The news of the ar-
rival of goods spread ; and people, to whom I had given due-bills,
came to have them paid. Xew boys also were desiring to come
to school.
Sunday, September 26, was a clear bright day. The river
was rising so rapidly, in its semi-annual flood, that I could al-
104 MY OGOWE
most see it advance, as I watched it at the landing. People took
advantage of the fact they had learned that I would do no work
on Sunday, in the way of travel, purchase or payment, or dis-
cipline. So, there was shouting over their hunting-nets, off to-
ward one of my boundaries. Therefore, very few people were
at my services.
RaGomu, one of Mr. Sinclair's men, came with some of my
boxes from Aguma. The natives knew nothing of days and
Sundays, on their travel ; so, it was not an offense that he should
land my goods; and, I furnished him and his crew with food.
It was a slight return for Mr. Sinclair's kindness in forwarding
my boxes. His firm, H. & C, and also the other two English
firms subsequently in the river, for years never charged me
anything for such transportation. Charges began to be made
by them later, when they ran small steamers. Even then, the
German house was the first to put their dealings with the Mis-
sion on a purely commercial basis. Boys from ftando's village
came, not simply to my day school, but to remain with me as
part of my family. I allowed two of them, one of them named
Ekanga (a son, and a brother, of Nando) to come at once. My
cook made a special effort for my dinner, an Ashanti-chicken.
(I have already described this mode.) There being no bones,
the fowl when placed on the table is readily divided, by two
cross-sections, into four portions, just the right size for a help-
ing, as African fowls are not large.
Monday, September 27, was a notable day. My hut was
completed, and I was established in it. Its dimensions were,
36 ft. x 12 ft., with a center annex in the rear, of 12 ft. x 6 ft.
It had only the usual native clay floor. But, I began at once
to gather material for a larger and better house, elevated from
the ground on posts.
It was also a crowded day. Besides the work at building,
there was an unusual Monday crowd of people coming and
going, with much confusion. My neighbors, gradually learn-
ing that I would not even talk a trade-bargain on Sunday, had
an accumulation of wants from over Saturday. After the con-
fusion, I discovered that my butcher-knife was missing. It
spoke well for the people's honest treatment of me, that this
was the first thing that had been stolen from me since my com-
ing among them. Could I have said the same in every part of
civilized and Christian America? My sore feet were well.
There were, as vet, verv few chigoes at the place ; and, I did not
THE BELAMBLA HUT 105
think there would be many; for, there was no sand there. Nor
was there an unusual quantity of mosquitoes; and I believed
there would be fewer as the place became more cleared. At
night, there was a heavy rain. The thunder and lightning- were
splendid ; but, not as magnificent as on Corisco Island, of ten
years before. I sat up late, reading; during the day hours, I
was too occupied by the natives. Ikunduku and my four little
boys sat with me, looking at pictures which he was able to ex-
plain to them, the while that they all munched the ground-nuts
(grown by the Bakele) which I had given them to roast.
Tuesday, the 28th, was a varied day. The Bakele workmen
were absent. Nando came to rebuke his three boys (Ekanga,
Dupakwe and Makata) for not having first asked his permission,
before coming to live with me. (I did not know that they had
come without permission.) Of course, I justified him; and he
allowed them to remain. Kasa sent me a goat, and I bought
another for $4 (trade). Disingwe brought thatch. People
coming and going all day. Ekomba was so utterly stupid that
I told him to stop work for the day, and charged him on his
month's account, as absent. I fined Manga for swearing. My
monkey was becoming mischievously troublesome.
On Wednesday, September 29, I wrote to my friend Mr.
Reading at Libreville, " The completion of this hut has quite
spoiled my simple diet. As I have plenty of eggs (but no milk)
I am indulging occasionally in pan-cakes."
Kasa, after a long absence, had returned to his town on the
preceding Saturday, but had not yet visited me. I would have
gone to see him ; but, almost every other day, I was told, " Kasa
is coming to-morrow." So, I waited for him. " To-morrow,"
in Africa, meant some indefinite time in the future. Masomami
and Mitimambi were quarrelsome at their work. I dismissed
them for the day, and detained all the others late. Monkey was
missing. At night I read to Manga and Ekomba, from Rev.
Air. Ibia's " Benga Customs," which the father of my beloved
Benita friend, Rev. George Paull, had published for me, in 1872,
while on my furlough in the United States.
Kasa finally made his visit to me on Thursday, September 30.
It was quite formal and impressive. First, came some of his
children, announcing, "Our father is coming!" Presently,
came some of his women. They did not venture to utter his
name, simply, " He is coming! " And then finally, himself, his
chief wife, and a few men. Our talk together was of our re-
106 MY OGOWE
spective journeys. In native etiquette, the visitor (unless an in-
ferior) does not always bring- a gift. But, on departing, the
visitor must be given by the host. So, I went into my little
store-room, and distributed to himself and women a variety of
not very costly goods. And he and they went away pleased.
My own dwelling-hut being completed. T began to build a shed.
under which to protect the materiel 1 would collect for a more
permanent house. In clearing the ground, I found charred
human bones. Cremation of the dead was not an Ogowe cus-
tom. But. the burning of witches and wizards was one of their
modes of punishment. What a tragic tale those remains could
have told !
On October I. my delinquent Bakele workmen returned. But.
I would not permit Mitimambi to resume. He hung around
until after work hours: and then I gave him a talk about obedi-
ence, paid him his " book." and dismissed him. A fine big mail
was brought me by Mr. Sinclair's canoe. I hastily glanced over
my letters during the busy day hours. And. then, at night, after
evening prayers. I sat down quietly and fully to enjoy them.
(That became more decidedly my habit, during my life in Africa.
Letters that I had longed for, for a month, if they happened to
come at hours that would be broken by native duties, I have laid
aside unopened, until I could read them undisturbed. They
were too sacred to mix with crude cares.) Ikunduku had made
me a specially good supper of fried chicken and pancakes. So,
I shared with him and Manga my coast letters, particularly my
sister's August letter, from their own Benita home.
Saturday. October 2 : Kasa respected the decision that ex-
cluded him from building on my grounds, but he had insisted on
removing his village to a point near me. He and his people
were busy clearing his new premises. He came with some of
them from where they had been working, and asked me for
food ! I gave him ; but. not willingly ; for. he was not far from
a village of his relations. Then, he wanted a padlock; I gave it.
Then, be wanted a gun. and $2 worth of powder. I gave the gun.
Then, he pretended to be dissatisfied with the pay I had given
him for his thatch in the preceding June! And. for some bam-
boo I had gotten from his people in September! And said
that a canoe I had borrowed in June had not been returned !
I had listened patiently to him. But, to revive a claim on pay-
ments that had been accepted, and falsely to lay on me the loss
of his canoe were too much. T showed him that I was dis-
pleased ; and he ceased to ask. With fine diplomacy, he resumed
THE BELAMBLA HUT 107
the role of " friend," and wished me to go with him to see the
site of his new village. I went. When I got there, I was sur-
prised to find that my monkey had secretly followed me.
The view of sunset across the river, in the rainy season, on
certain days, was very splendid. Nowhere else in Africa do I
think I have seen such magnificence. I would be looking
through the slightly humid air of the late afternoon, with the
width of the river as a foreground. Beyond, on the river bank,
was the densely green forest; beyond this, a range of hills that
were purpling; beyond and above, the masses of cloud, cumuli
and strata; of every rainbow color, and of all imaginable shapes.
T attempted to describe it one day. But, how successfully de-
scribe what every moment, as the sun sank, was changing like
a kaleidoscope! Nevertheless, I did. five, years later, incor-
porate my attempt, in the first chapter of my " Mawedo "
(1881). The heavy rains were always preceded by a strong
tornado wind. The forest was all around me, literally within a
stone's throw r . I felt a magnificence, in watching the swaying
of the trees, and in listening to the roaring of the wind through
the forest aisles.
Monday, October 4: Kasa's women came to sell plantains,
engaging to keep me supplied if I would keep on hand, " co-
logne " and " sweet soap," instead of the calico, knives, brass-
rods, and crockery, with which formerly they had been satisfied.
I obtained the perfumes, and scented soap and cheap jewelry.
And, they were pleased. What a step they had made to " civili-
zation," in the single year since I had first met them !
In my buying, especially from the men, I had to be rigidly
firm. Some young men brought rough-hewn planks for sale.
After they had accepted their agreed-upon price, they begged
so amazingly for something more, to be " topped " as a " dasli "
(gift), that I refused the planks, took back the price, and re-
turned to them the sugar-cane they had presented me. For the
cane, I had thanked them; and I would not have forgotten to
make some return the next time I should meet them. Their
asking for an immediate return was entirely too commercial.
As to the custom of the " dash," it was an evil one, not of native
origin, but introduced by white traders. The per cent, of gain
on the cheap goods paid for the ivory-tusk or basket of rubber
was (in those days) so large, that the trader could well afford
to add something at the close of the bargain. He gained a tem-
porary reputation for friendly generosity, by giving the addition
as a present, rather than by including it in the original price.
108 MY OGOWE
He could keep prices down. But I would not yield to the de-
mand for the extra present; I was not trading; and, from the
first, I had given better prices for food and building materials.
Jonganwe, a relative of Kasa, came to claim pay for the
Belambla premises, saying that Kasa had no right to sell it to
me! My patience had become exhausted on that subject.
Really, in that wilderness, no one owned any ground but what
he was actually living on or cultivating. When a village site or
old plantation was abandoned, any one else could come and
occupy it. Those Africans did not know of individual land-
tenure. Only, when foreigners came and desired permanent and
exclusive possession of a spot, did native cupidity find a reason
for making a claim. I refused even to talk to Jonganwe, and
referred him to Kasa. Semegwe happened to be present, and
he defended my right. After the claimant had left, Kasa came;
and, I gave him a small fee to settle the " palaver." While
we were talking, an antelope was aroused near the hut by some
people who had been hunting. Verily, my lodge was in a wil-
derness !
It may illustrate the difficulties unseen in pioneering a new
place, that I was then told confidentially, that, when I first came
among the Bakele, most of them did not wish to deal with me.
I was a white " spirit " (because I talked so much about God
and spiritual things!). And, they feared that I would bewitch
their Chief Kasa and King Ondene ! This explained to me the
cause of the many strange delays to which I had been subjected.
I had frequently to repeat my lesson to the people about my
refusal to follow the trader's custom of " topping " a gift or
purchase. On October 5, Nwanaja and Disingwe each pre-
sented me with a bunch of plantains. They then hung around,
as if they expected some gift in return. They should have
known me better. I plainly told them that, if they wished to
sell me the plantains, I would buy them, as I would from a
stranger; but, that if they expected an immediate return, I would
refuse to accept their gift, because returns were to be made not
on the same day as the receipt, frwanaja waited two days;
then, when she came, T did not know whether her coming was
with expectation, but T gave her a small gift.
At evening-prayers of October 7, little Kimagwe asked me
to explain the Scripture I had read. This pleased me; for,
though people listened to my daily religious services, very few
had asked me questions or shown personal interest in the Word.
October 8. My premises were becoming enlarged, like a little
THE BELAMBLA HUT 109
hamlet. Besides my own hut (all of whose rooms I soon needed
for myself), I had built an out-house kitchen, and a hut for my
employees ; and I was building a shed for the storing of material
for the real house to be erected on posts above the dampness of
the ground. Every day, people were bringing yams, ground-
nuts, thatch, sheep, etc., more than I had need for. A very
pleasant young man, a relative of Dumawebe, from Ivinene's
village, assisted at work all day, and did not ask for pay.
On Saturday, October 9, I went with Ikunduku and Kimagwe,
to see the site of Kasa's new village near me. I went on, to
another village. There I sat talking with an old man. He was
intelligent, and wished to reply to. even to argue with me. He
was respectful; but, he candidly said that the Bakele would not
change their customs, even if I should preach to them for a long
time. (I regret to say that this proved true. Rev. Mr. Pres-
ton, of Libreville, had prepared, long before, the Dikele New
Testament which I was using. But. in his experience, my own.
and that of my successors, the Bakele were found the least im-
pressionable of all the tribes in our mission field.) "While sit-
ting with him, a little girl passed by. She was attractive ; I no-
ticed her, and spoke of her, as " a pretty child." He asked me
whether I wished to marry her!
On Sunday, October 10, the service of the day was a pleasant
one. Kasa had brought with him a number of people from the
Interior. He took them, for their noon meal, to ftandi's village.
I invited three of his women to remain and eat with me. They
had learned some of my ways ; instead of promptly beginning
to eat. they waited for me to ask the blessing. "When Kasa re-
turned with his guests, I allowed him to take them into my inner
room, that they might see the white man's strange things. He
pointed out the door-lock, and turned the key, fastening the door.
Without thinking that my joke would be misunderstood (for.
I sometimes joked with him, and he appreciated) I remarked to
them. " Now, you are captives ! " As soon as the door was
unlocked, two of them rushed out. to escape! Probably, they
had heard of treachery in days of the foreign slave trade !
On Monday. October 11, I was forty years of age. As the
house-work was going on well, I left, although Masomami and
Mutyi's mother had come to see me, and went with Kasa to listen
to his " palaver " about two elephant tusks. It was to be held at
Semegwe's village. I waited there a long time for the com-
plainants to gather. But, time is so little a factor in native
African arrangements, that I became tired, and left before the
no MY OGOYVE
discussion even began. I spent the afternoon more profitably,
receiving many visitors in my own hut. Among them were two
of Kasa's women, waiting for him, with the two tusks ; one of
them was the mother of Kimagwe. When Kasa returned, he
was very friendly ; and I loaned him my small canoe and an axe
for five days. I preferred such a loan (for, he honorably would
return them) because they meant honest labor, rather than the
giving of trade-goods which would soon be broken or wasted.
On October 12, King Ondeiie's great fat wife came to see me.
So also, one of Nandi's women. And Disingwe's wife brought
the three plantain bunches for the bottle of cologne, which she
had been so desirous of obtaining. Verily, the cologne was a
great factor in Bakele civilization ! I discovered that a sheet was
missing from the week's wash; and was amazed that Ikunduku
had not himself informed me. On the Sunday preceding. T had
heard that a mail for me was delayed at some village down river.
And, on that Tuesday, a young man from that very place, in-
stead of bringing the package to me. came simply to tell me that
it was there! And. I was so longing for letters! It was a
beautiful moonlight night: but, the day had not been a happy
one. The following verses expressed my feelings. T sent a
copy of them to Mr. Reading at Libreville, with a note. il 1 found
the accompanying piece of paper in my wash-tub! I should like
to be acquainted with the author, as I have a fellow-feeling for
and with him. Ask him whether he hangs his wash on the
equator? I do."
SOMETHING TO MEM)
" Something to mend! " It's the regular cry
Of my garments abused with the week's toil and crush.
And the Mondays come 'round so much faster since I
Have had the new task of "looking over" the wash.
1 never so counted the days' run before.
Ry the loss of a button, or shirt-sleeve all torn:
And. now late. 1 begin to see slightly more
( )f the burdens so petty that others have borne.
Something to mend ! From my frail bamboo shed,
T look down the hill-side, where the wave on the stream
( )f Ogowe's swift tide, so grandly outspread,
Flashes clear in the light of this tropic sunbeam.
THE BELAMBLA HUT in
From the window's low edge, I lay down for awhile
The stitches my fingers unskilfully learn,
To watch " Driver ants," in their soldierly style,
Climb o'er yonder log green with orchid and fern.
in
There are heathen songs ringing from deep forest glade,
Or that float from canoe with the paddle's quick stroke ;
There's the laugh of my school-boys at play in the shade,
Or, some spite about food o'er their kitchen's blue smoke.
Is it all right with these? Is it all right with me?
And I think of my work for each life and each heart ;
Of the daily reproofs for the faults that I see,
And the strength to o'ercome that I try to impart.
IV
Something to mend ! Is there something to mend
In my own w r ayward heart, as I teach these lost sheep?
Are the words that I tell of their Heavenly Friend
Vainly told, while my soul fails its own truth to keep?
Ah ! the rents in our lives ! The sad rents in our lives !
The failures to fill the grand breadth of God's Law !
The weak faith that wearies ; the error that strives
Allegiance from Duty's strict limit to draw !
Something to mend? There is something to mend,
As long as the immortal is mingled with clay.
But. I strive on, in hope for the Hand that shall rend
The imperfect from what shall be perfect away.
O ! that Sabbath of Rest ! Joy's fulness above,
When the world's Week of Toil forever shall end !
O ! the Voice that shall say, with such wonderful love,
" Beloved, my child, there is nothing to mend ! "
On October 13, Kasa returned my borrowed axe, by hand of
Isamidete. Later, he and Masomami came. I told them of the
theft of the sheet. I was not solicitous of the pecuniary value,
but I was as to the matter of theft. I had been just and kind
and friendly, and (though not leaving temptation in the people's
way) I had trusted them. I would be helpless, as there was no
foreign law, if theft was not stopped in its very beginnings, by
my professed friends the native chiefs. I announced that there
would be no more gifts until my sheet was returned. Nor, as I
was soon going down river to get a native boat I had ordered, on
ii2 MY OGOWE
a former journey, from a Nkami carpenter, and I had a supply
of food on hand, would I buy any more food.
On Saturday, October 16, King Ondefie and two of his women
came with gifts. While he was still present, came a young man,
Odoni, son of Simisaka, with the stolen cloth! He said he had
recovered it by pursuing the thief down river. I was pleased
with this settlement, but not entirely satisfied. I never felt sure
that his story was true; nor would he tell me who was the thief;
nor was the theft punished. I was not sure that the offender
may have been one of Kasa's own people, and Odoni's story
made up in order to put the blame on some one else. These
suspicions grew, the longer I lived with Kasa and the Bakele.
They were the most untruthful of any tribe with whom I lived
in Africa.
But. my embargo on purchases was lifted. I. at once in-
vested in another esetye monkey and native knives, from people
of the Osamukita village. (That was a large trading-town, not
far from Kasa's old place. The proper form of the word is
Osamu-'kita (Affair-of-Trade!). Traders, in their ignorance
of the language, wrote the name as, " Sam-Kita " ; and others
who knew better have followed that spelling, and have given the
name to two other places lower down the river.)
On Sunday. October 17. Semegwe came for meeting; but, got
tired waiting for others, and left. Only seven came, two men,
one woman, and four children. But. more came in the after-
noon to Sabbath school, in which my three little boys. Kimagwe.
Makota. and Ekange were progressing. The former was
spelling in the Benga primer. T felt encouraged. Perhaps my
depression of the previous week may have been partly due to
my occasional ill health, under bilious attacks.
On Monday, the 18th. T was to start my journey to Nkami.
T had engaged Kasa and Masomami to take care of the premises
during my absence. But, they failed me. (This was only one
of many failures that finally broke my confidence in and friend-
ship for Kasa.) Semegwe happened along. T put the house
in his charge, leaving in his care one of my workmen. Ekomba.
sick with boils. Started down river, stopping at Ondeiies.
Avyake's, and Anyambe-iena's: reaching Mr. Sinclair's Aguma,
at sundown, in a rain. On the bluff, by the front edge of which
that trading-house was built, was the Galwa king's town. Adali-
na-nanga. There had just arrived the small steamer of Mr.
Schmieden bringing a mail from the seaside. T had a precious
supply from the United States, and from the Mission.
THE BELAMBLA HUT 113
Mr. Schmieder was going down-river on Wednesday, the
20th, and offered to tow me. Besides his work in rubber and
ivory, he was gathering natural curiosities for his friends or
museums in Germany. I was much interested in a gorilla skin,
and in two little leopards, of the size of an ordinary cat. They
were playful as kittens. The ride was delightful in speed,
though, towed in the vessel's wake, the water was rough.
Stopped for the night at Oranga. The next day, stopped on the
way for wood, at Isagi's town of Ngumbi. Almost my only
memory of that man is of brutality and cunning. He told us
of his having put to death a woman, on a charge of witchcraft.
I was landed at my journey's end, Onanga's village, early in the
evening. His father had been the head of the village, and vari-
ous memorial ceremonies were being performed. Onanga's
older brother was the successor, though, at first, Onanga tried
to deceive me by saying that himself was the successor, in order
that I should make him the usual gift in recognition of the posi-
tion.
The next day. I was greatly disappointed as to his work. I
had bargained for a boat; he had made a kongongo (a boat with-
out a keel). And, though I had allowed thirty days for the
job, the craft was not yet finished. Nevertheless, the following
day, Saturday, the 23d. after the usual effort to claim more than
the agreed-upon price, I took the kongongo, and would complete
it myself. I had brought an extra crew. and. T took from
Onanga his little son, Owanga, for school, and a lad. Akaga,
and a young man. ReSingane. Shortly after starting, I met
some of Onanga's people who had just killed a crocodile.
Though I did not long for its flesh myself. T bought, for 40
cents, an arm and part of the tail, as a delicacy for my crews.
Stopped over the Sunday, as T never traveled on that day.
The next daw King Njagu's would have been a convenient
stopping-place for the night. Though we were wet by an after-
noon rain. T declined the wishes of the crews, and went on. even
after dark, to Oiiwa-ombe's.
The next dav. October 26. on the journey, we were slowly toil-
ing close in shore, as usual, to escape the current. Hie unfin-
ished kongongo had no guard on its gunwale above the stern-
sheets on whose platform T was sitting, with my rug. Winchester
rifle, and other articles. A projecting branch brushed our side,
and extending across the platform, suddenly swept the rifle into
the river! T instantly stopped progress, had the crew hold the
craft in position against the current, by seizing that same branch.
ii4 MY OGOWE
and contemplated diving for my precious rifle. It was precious,
not because of its pecuniary value, but as a gift from Mrs. Nas-
sau in 1868, for its frequent use in getting fresh meat, for my-
self and crew, for protection against wild beasts, and for the
moral influence of the sight of it as natives saw it and heard of
its repeating power (though / never used it in the way of
threat). But, I was not skilled in diving. I would not order
my men to do what I hesitated to do myself, especially as the
spot was obstructed by sunken logs. I was intensely grieved,
too much so even to speak or to blame the steersman for hav-
ing run the craft into the bushes. I went ashore and cut a long
slender 15-foot pole. Then, from the miscellaneous articles
which I always carried with me, I tied several large hooks to
the end. With this, I carefully, firmly, slowly, and systematically
dragged the bottom of the river at the spot where the rifle had
sunk. The same hidden logs, that would have made diving
dangerous, made my fishing difficult. But. in a short time, I felt
that the pole was dragging something. Pulling carefully, the
end came up with the rifle hanging to the hooks! They had
caught on the leather strap, by which a gun is hung from one's
back, in walking. No part of the mechanism was injured.
And the powder in the cartridges in the magazine, on their sub-
sequently being fired, showed it had not been wetted. (That
rifle now belongs to my son, in the year of whose birth his
mother had presented it to me.) On the way. young men and
lads sought to engage employment with me. A man wished to
hire his slave. But. I declined slave-labor; not that T objected
to a slave's person in my household, but because I knew that
his wages would be taken from him by his owner. After T had
refused the slave, a stout lad. who probably did not understand
my ground of refusal, offered himself; and. to prove his strength.
bared his arms, and exhibited the play of his muscles.
The next day. Friday, was a long hot pull, past Ashuka.
Shot a large snake, and saw three other smaller ones. From
the villages, people followed, in canoes, begging me to buy their
provisions. After nightfall, stopped at Tgenia. the town of
Ombva-ogwana. the pilot of the Pioneer on my first entrance into
the Ogowe. He begged for a "small " gift. T gave him one.
He slighted its smallness. So. 1 took it away, and gave him
a lecture on thankfulness.
The next dav. the 28th, in starting. T picked up a new lad.
ReXguwa. On Friday, the 29th. were still slowly working
along the Galwa villages of Wombalya. At night, in the village
THE BELAMBLA HUT 115
where I had met the Galwa-Benga slave from Corisco, I had a
good meeting. After its close, I overheard some of the people
trying to imitate my singing. One man asked, " Why did this
Jesus, of whom you have spoken, die?" Why did Jesus die?
What a text for a sermon !
On Saturday, October 30. I reached the Adali-n'-ananga be-
fore noon. Every day of the journey, there had been rain. I
needed to have my clothing, my boxes and their goods, thor-
oughly dried. And letters needed to be written. When at
Benita, I had seen that the wooden enclosure around the grave
of Mrs. M. C. Nassau, was falling, under the attacks of white
ants. I wrote to my father in the United States, ordering an
iron fence.
At the trading-houses, I never had opportunity to preach on
Sundays, even if the traders themselves had been willing. Mr.
Sinclair would not have objected. But, the class of natives that
gathered around the traders' houses, thought and spoke only of
buying and selling, and asked only for liquor. Just at that time,
at Aguma, they were building new huts. And, all, natives and
white men, were interestedly expecting the coming of the
Pioneer. It arrived late in the afternoon. Special interest lay
in the importance of some of its passengers. One was Mr.
Jobet, a Frenchman, but agent at Libreville, of the English firm
of H. & C, of which Mr. Sinclair was a subordinate. With
him also, a young Mr. Boccaria. And Mons. Marche, who, some
three years before, had made a survey of the river, in company
with Mons. Compeigne. The interest which those two gentle-
men had aroused in France, on the importance of the Ogowe as
a route to the Interior, had resulted in the organization of a new
French expedition, under the charge of Lieutenant Savorgnan
P. De Brazza, an Italian count, who had become a French sub-
ject. To prepare the way for him, M. Marche had come again
to the Ogowe.
The new master of the Pioneer, Captain Bryant, began early
on Monday. November 1, to discharge the vessel. It had
brought me another precious budget of letters; also, a lot of
windows, doors, and 100 boards, for my new house, and an
abundant supply of provisions. I hasted to load them for a re-
turn to Belambla.
Mr. R. B. N. Walker, the chief agent of H. & C, who. aside
from his trade duties, was deeply interested in the exploration
of the Interior from the west coast, had always retained a friend-
ship for me, because of my fellow sympathy and interest in
1 16 MY OGOWE
African geography and philology. He was planning, with the
Royal Geographical Society of England, a journey into the In-
terior by either the Bonita or Ogowe rivers. He invited me to
accompany him. On moral and religious questions we had little
in common. But, my zeal was fired at the thought of adven-
ture, exploration, and possible missionary extension. Awaiting
the consent of my Board, I assented to accompany Mr. Walker,
saying that I would go with him and recognize him as chief
(for, in all Africa, no two white men can travel as equals in au-
thority) on his agreeing to certain conditions: (i) we should
travel on Sunday, under only the necessity of saving life or
health; (2) I should handle no liquor; (3) I should be free, on
the route, to hold religious meetings with the natives. My let-
ter amused him; and he agreed. But, Secretary Lowrie of the
Board in New York, in his reply to my request received in
April, 1876, for a temporary leave of absence (at no expense to
the Board) refused. I was exceedingly disappointed. Living-
stone was none the less a missionary when he took up the role of
an explorer. Had I gone on that journey, the Kongo would have
been opened in advance of Stanley; and our Mission might
have been the first to enter the region of the (present) Kongo
Free State. Mr. Walker then gave up his plan, and remained
as a trader on the Coast.
There was a distressing affair at Aguma during the afternoon ;
based partly on that singular African relation of white men's
position to each other, to which I referred above. It existed all
over Africa. Even Livingstone preferred to travel alone, rather
than risk almost inevitable quarrel with a white associate. Most
of Stanley's troubles came from the jealousies of his white com-
panions, although, in joining his expeditions, they had signed
contracts as his subordinates. Natives always drew a line be-
tween two white masters, the " big " and the " little."' And.
in the trade on the Coast, that line of distinction was painfully
enforced by the white men themselves. Some tact and considera-
tion and grace were required to prevent it appearing in our mis-
sion ranks. At Adali-n'-ananga Mr. Sinclair, who was very
kind and friendly with me. was the subordinate of Mr. Jobet,
who was himself sub to Mr. Walker. Air. Sinclair had two
white clerks under him. They all three held sexual relations
with native women. But, Mr. Sinclair more formally confined
himself to one. whom he retained in the house, as his common-
law wife. I was not supposed to take any notice of her. nor did
she ever appear at table. But, she was a modest, well-behaved,
THE BELAMBLA HUT 117
young woman. All three white men and the native employees
had been drinking, over the Pioneer's good arrival. The latter
were drunk; the former were only " intoxicated." Mr. Sinclair's
chief clerk made some insulting remark to the woman ; she com-
plained to her protector. A quarrel followed. Mr. Sinclair
ordered the clerk to leave : the latter refused, knowing that he
was needed. Mr. Sinclair then said that he himself would leave.
He packed his trunks, and came to my room, in maudlin tears,
to bid me good-by. He was not in a state fit to decide such an
important question. I urged him about his own commercial
interests, and his duty to the firm ; and, however wrong his rela-
tion to the woman, I sympathized in his defense of her; for, she
did not deserve the vile term the clerk had flung at her.
At dinner that night, which was an especially fine one for the
presence of Agent Jobet, after the soothing influence of a good
meal, he made a tactful speech, sustaining Mr. Sinclair in his
authority as head of the " factory," but declining to accept any
resignations, and hoping that all would lay aside personal ani-
mosities for the good of the great English firm of H. & C.
And then, in closing, he startled me by appealing to me whether
he was not right. Every member of the house, from agent
down to the humblest clerk, had always treated me with such
courtesy and kindness, that I promptly responded, heartily wish-
ing the best for H. & C, regretting that there should be differ-
ences among my friends, and hoping that they would accept my
toast of " Good will to all! " even if it was offered only in my
invariable water! They at once drank to it in something
stronger ! Peace was restored. And, the evening passed, in an
orderly way, with singing, and checkers, and pleasant chat. Not
long after, my friend justified himself by quietly parting with
the woman, and by dropping his own use of liquor.
The next day, Tuesday, November 2, I started up-river with
my two crafts heavily laden. It was a rather anxious day.
Food was needed; but, the crews were afraid to stop for it on
the right bank, the Fanwe side ; and, on the left bank, with the
Bakele, at Anyambe-jena's, their demands of a price for a re-
cently killed gazelle, were exorbitant. A strong wind preceding
a rain made waves that were dangerous to the canoes, the gun-
wales of which were only slightly above the water. I had
learned, by my experience of the previous year with canoes, that,
under a strong wind, it was wise to stop ashore until its force
abated. The river was in its highest semi-annual flood ;
Sakwele's island, at which I stopped for the night, was almost
u8 MY OGOWE
submerged; but, the house of Captain Stone's native trader, in
which I slept, was safely elevated on posts.
It was pleasant, next day, to get back among people whom I
knew. Stopped at various villages; at one where a piece of
fresh antelope was bargained for. At Avyake's, my friend,
Bya-utata, and other of his women welcomed me warmly. At
another village, I was shown a pig that had wandered into the
street from the forest. It was not of the wild African kind,
which is red, and with tassels to its ears. This was the ordinary
foreign black pig, which had been introduced to the country,
probably by Portuguese. This kind had gone to the forest
and propagated there; evidently it had not lost entirely its mem-
ory of domestication.
1 reached my Belambla late in the afternoon. Affairs were
quiet, and all right. The news of my arrival soon spread; and
Semegwe, Nandi, and others came to salute.
With the materials on hand for a real dwelling-house, I began
work promptly, and with some new rules, making for efficiency :
hours from 7 a. m. to 11 a. m. ; and from 1 p. m. to 5 p. m. A
great many people came, with quantities of plantains and other
food, of which I could buy only a small portion. The inevitable
white ants had been at work during my absence, in my boxes
and trunks, and had spoiled some of my clothing. The more
urgent was the necessity for my getting the house on posts,
which I was planning for the next January. This, indeed, would
not keep ants out; but, their approach could be seen and daily
thwarted.
On Sunday, November 7, people came, after waiting awhile
for them. I never expected them to remain perfectly quiet, like
a civilized audience. Crying babies did not disturb me, but talk-
ing women did. I had to stop and tell them to behave them-
selves. But, the younger people were desirous to learn. 1
taught a great deal in the afternoon until I became very tired.
I had, by that time, thirteen young men and lads living on
my premises, and at work, either in school, or in the forest gath-
ering logs to be squared for the new house. There were fre-
quent quarrels among them, due to tribal differences, as they
came from four different tribes. Makata was one of the worst
and noisiest.
For ten days, about that time, from November 11 to 21, I
was sick with a heavy cold, that developed into bronchitis and
almost pneumonia. I lay in a hammock outdoors, so that T could
have some slight over-sight of the work; and, that the simple
THE BELAMBLA HUT 119
fact of my presence should preserve order. My people rarely
fought in my presence. The quarrels would develop while I
was not with them on their errands in the forest. But, one
evening - , two women from Semegwe's village passing along with
their husbands, fell to fighting on the path near my hut. They
were rolling on the ground, scratching faces, pulling hair, and
tearing at garments. An effort to denude her opponent was the
objective point in most female fights. Each knew that the
modesty of the other would yield in the contest, rather than be
stripped stark naked in public. (For that reason, when fights
were challenged, the contestants prepared themselves by tying
on their clothes very tightly.) I did not know the cause of the
quarrel, or which was in the wrong. And was rather surprised
that the two husbands were not more decided in their efforts to
separate the combatants. I could not endure the shameful scene
on a mission premises. Weak as I was, I arose, and advanced
with a switch. Doubtless those women had often been beaten
with the heavy hippopotamus-hide lash. But, they fled, before
my little switch could reach them. Something about the white
man as a " foreign spirit " probably gave them a terror greater
than their husbands' blows. The exertion, naturally, made my
sickness worse. Every night I perspired profusely ; but the
draughty hut added to my cold. My thirst was extreme. I
drank largely of lime-ade.
A new hut went up rapidly, as I had gathered all materials
ready. It was in size 24 ft. by 14 ft., as a temporary kitchen
for myself, and a room for my employees. My Kombe,
Ikunduku, faulty as he was, I had to use, during my sickness,
to assist in Sunday services. He had been educated at Benita,
and knew the way, even if he did not always follow it. In my
presence he could conduct a service properly. Shortly after the
meeting had been dismissed on November 21, a large company
of people came, and. from my hammock, I led a second service.
As I was recovering on the 22d, I started a mixed crew on
an errand to the Adali-n'-ananga " factory." One was an
Akele, Jongane. He soon returned, saying that, on the way, in
passing Kasa's village, the latter had stopped the canoe, and had
forbidden any of Randi's people, to go on the journey, because
of a family quarrel with a village farther down river. Those
quarrels were constant and very annoying; for, though I felt
sure that my presence in the canoe would protect the crew, they
themselves were not always so sure, and feared or sometimes
refused to go near certain villages. As, in this case, Jongane
120 MY OGOWE
said he was not afraid and was willing to go, I ordered him to
return to the canoe and proceed with the journey. He went;
but shortly afterward came back, saying that Kasa had hindered
him. I was very indignant at this most daring of Kasa's as-
sumptions over my affairs. The next day, he came to justify
himself, arguing that he acted as he did to save me from trouble
if my canoe should be seized by the enemies of Jongaiie's family.
Perhaps there was some ground for his action. The mere fact
of the canoe being mine might not save it, when my presence
in it would have done so. For, that canoe that should have re-
turned in three or four days, did not finally return until ten days
later. They came with a long story of how they had been seized
at a village near the Ngunye river, and had been released only
through some interest with Mr. Sinclair.
On Sunday, November 28, a gleam of comfort, in the midst
of Bakele apparent indifference to personal interest in my Mes-
sage came when little Kimagwe offered to repeat the Lord's
Prayer in his own Dikele language. Many had a desire to be
taught to read, and I was glad for that, even though 1 knew that
their desire to learn was only in the line of civilization.
Everything unusual in the native African life is made the
occasion for seeking gifts, visits, journeys, deaths, etc. This
custom extended itself to us foreigners, especially if one, as I
did, affiliated myself as friend with the people, in order to win
them. The demands, though not severe, became onerous, in
their number and frequency. The traders accepted those re-
quests from fewer people; for, their dealings with the natives
were only commercial. King Ondene came; his begging was
not only for himself as visitor, but also as a mourner for the
recent death of a brother. (In some tribes, the presentations,
" for wiping away sorrow," were quite formal.) I took occa-
sion to warn him about witchcraft murders, as I heard that he
had put to death two persons. Desiring some variety from the
constant tin-can of hard crackers, and the occasional batter-
cakes, I attempted myself to make some biscuits. How hard
and dyspeptic they were! I probably had put in too much soda,
and had kneaded them unnecessarily.
When, on Deceml>er 2, my long-delayed canoe returned, it
brought me a mail ; among the rest, a letter from Count De
Brazza.
Work had gone so well, notwithstanding the constant tribal
frictions of my employees, that, when, on December 8, their out-
houses and my new kitchen were completed, I gave them a holi-
THE BELAMBLA HUT 121
day, by taking them a fishing and hunting excursion far up
Mbilye Creek. I shot a number of birds, and gathered some
beautiful orchids. It was a pleasant day, and we returned late,
with sharpened appetites. ReSingane fried me two of the birds
very nicely.
My building operations had confined me to Belambla. I had
not itinerated since my locating there in September. So, one
day early, I took my entire company, to visit the villages up
river. Stopped for late breakfast at Mbomi. Then, passed
Sene, on the way to the " Osamu-'kita " district. The current
was swift, with swirling eddies that made me feel slightly nau-
seated. Came to the spot where Mr. Boccaria was building his
trade-house. I had been the most advanced among the white
men of the river. Now, trade was passing me. He was living
quite crowded in a small shed. After a year's effort, I thought
my circumstances still were narrow. His were worse; but, in a
few months, his narrowness would disappear. Back of him was
commerce. Back of me was only a church ! But, he had good
food. He kindly gave me some nice pilot-bread and a leg of
mutton. We went on toward Aleke's town of the Osamu-'kita
collection of villages. Was met by a canoe of men who sus-
piciously inquired our " tribe." My crew of ten had representa-
tives from four tribes. Probably, those men recognized in my
company a member of some hostile family. After they had
passed us, they turned and followed, as if pursuing. I did not
like their action, and suspected that they meant to quarrel with
some one of my crew. I said nothing to them or to the crew,
and quietly but ostentatiously filled the magazine of my Win-
chester full of cartridges. The men noticed my act, and ceased
their pursuit.
I had heard so much of the " greatness " of Aleke and
" Sam-kita," that, on my arrival, I was disappointed at his lack
in hospitality. It certainly was a large town. After supper,
which was indeed a hearty one all around, a very large company
of people gathered to hear me, in the spacious ikenga (public
reception-room). In their curiosity they persisted in making
remarks among themselves. It was a long time before they
quieted sufficiently for me to begin to talk. Just then, a woman
set up a loud quarrel with a man; and the meeting was broken
up. I complained sharply to Aleke of his indifference ; for, as
head of the town, he could have compelled quiet. I remained
all night. The next morning, there were heavy rain clouds.
When the rain ceased, I departed, giving Aleke only a small
122 MY OGOWE
gift, and being given no attention by the people. Their interest
in trade was so entire that they did not even dissemble any in-
terest in myself or my Message. I felt that Aleke's was the
most unpleasant place at which I had been, in the river, except,
perhaps, Isagi's at Ngumbe.
As I came on down-river, I stopped at Mr. Boccaria's to drink
a cup of coffee with him. From all sources, wherever I could
gather, I was anxious to obtain information of the geography
of the Ogowe and its relation to the Gaboon. Mr. Boccaria told
me positively (of which I had been given an intimation at
Agonjo on the Rembwe) that, starting from the right bank of
the river, opposite to Osamu-'kita, there was a route, through
the forest, of only two days' journey (partly by water) north-
ward to the Rembwe, emerging on that river at a village called
Ezanga or Isanga. Also, that he knew of a path (not known
to other white men) from the spot where he then was building,
one day's journey southward to the Ngunye. I was more in-
terested in the Rembwe route, for its possible development of
communication with Gaboon, in the future of my Ogowe work.
(That route has since then been described both by traders and
by missionaries.) But, I was surprised about the proximity
of the Ngunye ; I had not supposed that its sources turned so
far northward. Maps, at that time, were quite inaccurate.
Even native names were badly spelled. I interested my em-
ployees often, out of work hours, by their assisting me to cor-
rect these. It is true also, that natives made history difficult
by taking with them to a new location the name of their aban-
doned town. Therefore, a future visitor at the new site, who
had been told by a traveler of events at the old site, would not
be able to identify the surroundings, e. g., of streams and hills.
(That is true of the present " Sam-kita.")
Kasa. visiting at Ibanyi's village, hailed me as I was pass-
ing, and I stopped to see him. With the aid of a fetish-" doc-
tor," he was making a " medicine " for an elephant hunt.
On Saturday, December u, an Akele man, Mpunga, who had
just escaped from stocks in Avyake's village, brought me news
that two white men were traveling up-river, and were only a
short distance away. This, of course, aroused my curiosity and
interest for possible visitors. They came the next day. Sunday,
just as I was preparing for public services. They were M. Marche
and Doctor Ballay, advance guard of the French expedition, on
their way to Osamu-'kita. They brought me news that the
Pioneer might soon be expected at Adali-n'ananga ; and they
THE BELAMBLA HUT 123
passed on their way. Their news decided me to hasten prepara-
tions for my journey to the Coast, for annual meetings. Pos-
sibly I could find passage on the expected Pioneer!
On December 16, the workmen brought from the forest the
last of the logs needed for my real dwelling, to be built on my
expected return from the Coast in January. The next day I
gave them a holiday, as I wished to be rid of their noise, while
T was making my last arrangements for packing, etc. The last
job was to rake up and burn (as a prevention of possible fire)
the rubbish around my huts and from the site of the proposed
new house.
On Saturday, the 18th, ftwanaja and another woman came
early to take charge of the huts during my absence. In their
presence, that there might be no chance for dispute, if articles
should be lost, I made out an inventory of goods left in their
care. And then, started down river, with a crew of ten, some
of whom were to be left at their homes on the way. In all my
journeyings. whether for supplies or other reasons, I made the
preaching of the Word prominent. This is true of all the years
in this record, even if I do not always mention it. Stopped at
Avyake's for a late breakfast. And, at Ranch's and Manda's,
to inquire about their recent pursuit of my canoe. They made
a plausible explanation. I fired at and wounded a hippopotamus
across the river, which there is very wide : the people were
amazed at the range of the Winchester. I did not shoot for
butchery; only for food or defense. That animal, if seriously
wounded, though I failed to obtain it for myself and my crew,
would be found and eaten by others. I never made threats ;
but, such demonstrations of the effectiveness of my rifle, I am
sure, had a moral effect on the wild natives, that redounded to
my safety among them. In later years, and in more civilized
places, the gun was not needed for that purpose.
Stayed for the night, and next day, Sunday, at Anyambe-
jena's. It was a very heathenish and noisy town; but, during
my Sunday services the people behaved better than I expected
they would.
On the way, on Monday, instead of keeping the main stream,
I went into the channel on the left bank by the Tazie villages.
I did not like the appearance of the people; they looked as if
they would make trouble, on slight provocation. In one village
was a monstrosity, a child with ears like an elephant's.
Reached Mr. Sinclair's by 10 a.m.; and, after a bath and
clean dress, enjoved his 11 a.m. breakfast. In the afternoon,
i_'4 MY OGOWE
joined Mr. Sinclair and his Senegalese clerk. Mane, for a call
across, to the river's left bank, on Count De Brazza, at the
Inenga village of King Ra-Noki, Lembarene. (That name has
since been given to the French Post, three miles lower down-
river on the right bank.) The Count invited us to remain for
evening dinner. He showed me the instruments of his journey,
for taking latitudes and longitudes, for making repairs, etc., etc.
He and Dr. Ballay, as Frenchmen (but not as officials) signed
Kasa's deal of sale to me of the Belambla ground. For a camp,
the evening dinner was quite elaborate in its courses. There
was such a variety of dried and compressed and desiccated vege-
tables and meats ! Very pleasant to eat, but, desiccated though
they were, the quantity needed for a journey of months would
be burdensome. In his subsequent journeys, ten years later,
my friend De Brazza learned to depend on the food of the coun-
tries he passed through. Though sometimes on famine rations,
the plan saved porterage, and left him to quicker and more
rapid movements with a smaller body of men. There was a
dog in camp that attracted my attention. While I was petting
it, Dr. Ballay, perhaps only in imitation of the extravagance of
Arab hospitality, said I might have it. I took him at his word;
and mentioned the fact to the Count. He. perhaps in joke,
claimed the dog as his. Then we suggested that Solomon's de-
cision should settle the dispute. Neither of us yielding, we
agreed that the dog should be divided in two. But, the joke
stopped there ; for, he claimed the head, and I was not willing
to accept the tail. (When, later, they made their start for the
far Interior, they felt that the dog would be an encumbrance;
and it was given to me.)
In the evening, at his house, Mr. Sinclair told me the story
of King Ra-Xoki's blindness: As a young man, coming into
power, he had perfect sight and all his senses. He was ambi-
tious. Went to a sorcerer-doctor to have made for himself a
powerful fetish-charm that would ensure him wealth and influ-
ence. The sorcerer told him that only by becoming blind could
all people be caused to look up to him. He accepted the condi-
tion, and voluntarily destroyed his own sight with a hot iron
rod. But, he obtained his wish! He had wealth, wives, slaves,
and authority. The Expedition had come to him to have him
use his influence with the interior tribes so that they should
make no obstructions. He was well paid; he sent his people
to guide the French canoes through the upper Ogowe Rapids:
and himself accompanied, on part of the way. Blind as he was,
THE BELAMBLA HUT 125
all his other senses had become so very acute, and his memory
so clear, that he knew all the channels, through which he had
traveled on his slave journeys in his younger days; his face felt
the presence of the solidity of rocks or trees in front of him
as compared with the vacuity of open spaces, and his ear recog-
nized the difference in the sounds of the swirl of an eddy, the
swish of a wave around an obstacle, or the rush of shallow water
over a reef. He was a more successful pilot than those of his
sight-possessing people. He thoroughly believed in his fetish.
JOURNEY TO THE SEASIDE.
There being no certainty of the Pioneer's coming, I started
on Wednesday, December 22, with my company of ten down-
river, expecting to be met at the river's mouth, by the Hudson.
Stopped at Schmieder's house on business, remaining for the
late breakfast. On to Aveya's near Wombalya, and added him
and his little brother Onganga. to my company. Met Isagi com-
ing up-river. Opposite Aromba, met the little steamer of Mr.
Schultze, agent of Woermann House. On to Oranga, and
bought a large quantity of a small dried fish ; and spent the night
at a small village. The next day, on to Ombyangwana's at
Igenja. On to Ashuka, and ate there. On to Avanga, where
I was well received ; meeting there a certain man Teno. On
to Ngumbi, meeting there at anchor, the little steamer Njega
towing the small sailing-vessel Brunette, laden with goods,
to establish a trading-house near Belambla. After eating sup-
per ashore, went off to the Njega, and spent the evening with
the three white men, Mr. Schiff, (Mr. Schultze's sub-agent) his
clerk, Mr. Neilson, and the engineer.
The next day, the man, Teno. came to escort me up a long
creek, to Dumba, where I vainly tried to get some return for the
expense and trouble I had gone to in helping their Nkami young
men to a canoe, in the previous April. Came on to Ndogo, King
Njagu's town ; and, though the hour was early, stopped there
for the night, because, beyond was an uninhabited stretch, and
I could not reach another village before dark. (Had it been
dry season, I could have stopped anywhere in the forest.)
Xjagu was affable: and my goods were left in the kongongo
safe, though unprotected by other than the fact that its owner
was guest of the king.
Saturday, the 25th, was Christmas. But, in Africa, during
my pioneering years, the day meant little to me. It happened
that, on that day, I was often on journey to the seaside meetings
126 MY OGOWE
of mission and presbytery. My crew, some of them, had never
heard of the day; and those who had, knew of it only as a time
for carousing among the traders. The fact of the Birth of a
Savior was daily before me; and in Civilization, I recognized a
special time for its commemoration. But, as to the 25th
of December having any special sanctity as the actual anniver-
sary, I have never believed. An unusual number of monkeys
were in sight; and I shot two fish-eagles for the crew's meal.
It was a long pull to INfango; the old man there was very foolish
in claims for tribute, as " king." Was pleased to meet there
a young man who had become civilized by former service with
Rev. Wm. Walker, at Baraka School, Libreville.
On to Onanga's, and was warmly welcomed. Part of the
warmth was probably due to the fact that I came to pay the bal-
ance due for the kongongo. Having dropped at their homes on
the way three of my crew, I hurried on to Angala with the re-
maining seven. And stayed there over Sunday, December 26.
Chief Esongi was a very well-informed man. He had learned
much from his contact with white men, even though some of
them were Portuguese, to whom he had sold slaves. He asked
me many curious questions about theology.
The next day, Monday, 27th, went on seaward, through a new
one of the many channels of that part of the Ogowe Delta.
How my Kombe men rejoiced as they came in sight of their
familiar sea! But I began to dread the possibility of my hav-
ing to sail it in that small craft, if our cutter Hudson should
happen not to keep its appointment there for me. Saw a small
vessel resembling it, far out ; and, in a borrowed canoe, sent mes-
sengers to inquire. Before they returned, late at night, Ejombo
the native assistant of Captain Menkel, himself came, in a canoe,
with letters for me, to Schmieder's little trading-house, where I
was waiting! After supper, it was a long and dangerous pull
out to where the Hudson was anchored off the river's mouth, no!
reaching it until near 1 1 o'clock that night. The Hudson started
at once, with my kongongo in tow. But. shortly after mid
night, was met by a tornado that compelled it to again anchor
until the storm was past. r J ne progress of the vessel was so slow-
that T was wearied and exhausted with seasickness. ( How much
1 suffered from it during twenty-five years!) The motion of a
boat was to me less sickening than that of a larger vessel. When,
by afternoon of Wednesday 29, we were off Pongara Point, the
extreme left bank cape at the mouth of the Gaboon, 1 believed I
could make quicker progress and with less pain by paddling. So,
THE BELAMBLA HUT 127
with my seven men, I entered my little craft, and we paddled
across the ten miles of the estuary, and were ashore by 5 p. m.,
and were welcomed by my friends, Mr. and Mrs. J. H. Reading.
It was prayer-meeting evening. After it, a visit on Rev. Dr. and
Mrs. Bushnell, and the reading of a mail awaiting me filled a
happy evening.
Next morning, the Hudson came to anchor, and some of my
goods were sent ashore. I had a goat, as a present for two of the
elder young women in Mrs. Bushnell's school, Njivo (Hattie)
and Akera. They, with Njivo's elder sister, Anyentyuwe were
my earliest and most attractive friends in that school. They
were Christians, and grew up to useful matronage in the com-
munity. The two sisters had important places during my Ogowe
life. Instead of waiting at Baraka for my sister to come from
Benita, as I heard of the aftermath of Mr. Schorsch's doings
there, I decided to go and escort her. So, in the afternoon of
that Thursday the 30th, on the Hudson, I resumed the sea
journey.
And, in the very last night-hours of the old year, came to the
journey's end at anchor in the Mbade cove at Benita. Went
ashore to Mr. Menkel's, and lay down exhausted, to sleep on a
lounge.
The next morning, January 1, 1876, I early sent a note to my
sister at Bolondo house, for her boat, Evangeline, to come for me.
While waiting for it, I went to the Cemetery, and sat by the
graves of Mrs. Nassau and my little Paull.
The Evangeline brought me over the two miles to Bolondo and
warm welcomes from, my sister and her associate Miss Lydia
Jones. But. it was distressing to listen to their accounts of un-
kindnesses to which they had been subjected by the Benita peo-
ple. That very day I met a demonstration of it. A yellow-
faced young man, Bokamba, from Sipolo on the south side of the
river, had an altercation with my sister about the price of a fowl.
Indignant at his violent words to her. I rebuked him ; and then he
turned on me with a knife ! In the evening, a long consultation
with the two ladies about Benita affairs. The Benita that I and
my successor Rev. S. H. Murphy had built up so happily and ef-
fectively during its first eight years was apparently ruined by the
monomaniac Schorsch. The two ladies were reaping some of the
aftermath of the ill-will of the people at his removal, aimed at
them in the absence of myself the prime mover against him.
(That evil has long ago been wiped out, and Benita church has
now a fine record. But, I have never, even to-dav, been able to
128 MY OGOWE
meet the Benita people without a pained memory of that past.)
On Sunday, January 2, we went to the church at Mbade, and I
preached from Genesis ii, 7 ; and, in the evening - at Bolondo
from Revelation, i, 10.
The next day, old Chief Aka and young- Beduka came to call
on me. I protested to them against the violent acts of some of
the Kombes toward my sister. They asserted that those acts
were exceptional and not approved of by the people at large.
But, I did not accept their explanations. They were not Chris-
tians. There was no foreign government at Benita ; we looked
to the Kombe chiefs for protection; Aka himself was a chief; I
could not accept his statement that " Benita people " did not
" approve " of the acts of which I had complained, the while that
" Benita people " did not punish the offenders. Mwanyatye-Tom
also came to talk with me about those same affairs. He was a
church-member, and a young man of influence.
Tuesday, January 4, was occupied with loading the Hudson,
for a return to Libreville. My Kombe men remained at their
homes. That night, with my sister and Miss Jones. I embarked.
Stopped, on the 6th, at Elongo Station, Corisco Island, to visit
the De Heer family. Preached for Rev. C. De Heer on Sunday.
" Godly sorrow that needeth not to be repented of.''
On Monday. January 10, with the addition of Melumu. a
Benga. who entered my employ for the Ogowe, resumed the
voyage to Libreville on the evening of the nth.
Our annual meetings were begun on Thursday, the 13th. At
their close on Wednesday, the 19th. a reception was arranged at
Mrs. Bushnell's, for the French Commandant. Besides Mrs.
Bushnell, there were our mission ladies present. Misses Nassau.
Tones, Lush, and Dewsnap, also a visitor. Miss Johnson, of the
Scotch U. P. Mission at Calabar, whose knowledge of French
made her efficient as interpreter. The Commandant seemed not
to be on very good terms with the Jesuit Mission of Gaboon. On
the 20th, I heard that Mr. Boccaria was dead at the Plateau, hav-
ing come there sick from the Ogowe. 1 knew of the excesses of
his dissolute life. I did not wonder at his death. But. I re-
gretted that it added another to the statistics that were sent out to
the world as (unjustly) proving that .Africa was a necessarily
fatal country for white people to reside in. But. he had been
kind to me: and T went to his funeral. Xot being quite well my-
self. T rode on the Baraka horse. That was the first Roman
Catholic funeral T rememl>er ever to have attended.
A romance was revealed, in which I took some interest.
THE BELAMBLA HUT 129
Petiye, a Kombe, handsome, polite, well-educated, Christian, a
pupil of my sister as a candidate for the ministry, attending as her
escort from Benita, was discovered in a lover's correspondence
with Akera, one of the prettiest, most vivacious, lady-like, and
educated young women of the Baraka Mpongwe School. There
was no impropriety in the correspondence or their association ;
and I encouraged them, going so far as to suggest an elopement.
But, the Bushnells understood better than I at that time, the inten-
sity of the Mpongwe tribal feeling against allowing their daugh-
ters to marry any member of any " lower " tribe, however good
or noble he might be. They could marry only in their own
Mpongwe or Orungu (or possibly Xkami) tribe, or become com-
mon-law wives of white men. (By whom they were sought for
100 miles up and down the coast.)
After preaching in the morning of Sunday, January 23. on
Noah's dove of peace, I was called by Mrs. Bushnell to interfere
in a savage fight going on in the yard between two of my Gal-
was, Aveya and Akaga. Often in the Ogowe, I had seen my
employees quarrels; they had always yielded to my command.
But, that day I was scandalized, I and my people being Dr. Bush-
nell's guests. Aveya yielded: but Akaga was so wild as utterly
to disregard me. I had to violently seize him, and roughly flung
him into his house, and threaten with the French police if he
emerged without my permission.
We were all waiting for the coming of delegates from adjacent
missions, whom our mission had invited to a convention, for the
discussion of missionary topics. While waiting, I was prepar-
ing a musical program. My guitar, which I had brought with
me to Corisco in 1861, and which had been of service there and at
Benita. but for which there had been no place in my Ogowe hut,
I had left stored at Baraka. In tuning the strings up to their
proper pitch, their tense draft tore the neck from the body. The
dampness of the climate, while it was in storage, had softened the
gluing of the joints, and the instrument fell to pieces. (As my
violoncello had done in 187T.) I mourned over my guitar al-
most as I would have for a human friend. It had been my com-
panion for twenty years. It had given pleasure to many social
gatherings; the sentiments of its songs had given relief to my
often saddened heart : really, when alone, I had touched its strings
as I would have spoken to an intimate loving friend; for, in the
choice of keys and chords I could give utterance to sensitive feel-
ings as I was unwilling to do. at that time, to any human as-
sociate.
130 MY OGOWE
On the afternoon of the 29th, our convention visitors came on
the steamer Kongo. They were the Rev. Dandeson Coates
Crowther and wife, of the English Episcopal Mission at Bonny ;
the Rev. Hugh Goldie and wife, of the Scotch U. P. Mission at
old Calabar ; Rev. Messrs. Samuel Griffiths and Theophilus Parr,
of the English Primitive Methodist, of Fernando Po; and Rev.
Messrs. Robert Smith and Joseph J. Fuller and Mrs. Fuller of the
English Baptist Mission on the Cameroons (Kamerun) River.
Letters of regret at being unable to attend were received from
Rev. Messrs. J. Milum and J. B. Wood of Lagos, and the Right
Rev. S. Ajai Crowther, D. D., Anglican Bishop of the Nile re-
gion. There were very instructive essays read on assigned
topics, followed by interesting discussions covering several days ;
and helpful discourses in the evenings.
RETURN TO THE OGOWE.
On Monday, February 7, with goods, supplies, and material for
my new house, dog " Brownie " given me by Mr. Menkel at
Benita, and the company of my crew of the kongongo which was
in tow, I was given passage for the Ogowe on the Pioneer, by
courtesy of its new master, Captain De Grauchy and Messrs.
Woodward and Dixon.
The Njegd was in pursuit, and passed us on the next day. Its
schooner, under sail, was also in sight. Anchored at the Nazareth
mouth of the river, in the evening. Entering the river the next
morning, Wednesday. February 9, we reached Adalinananga on
the 14th.
How rapid the changes in the river, since I had first entered it
eighteen months before ! At that time, there were in the river,
all told, only five white men. Now there were two dozen, the
number of firms rushing into the harvest of rubber, was increased,
and many new trading-houses were being built, some of them out-
distancing me beyond Belambla. Ten of us were gathered at
Mr. Sinclair's dinner-table on evening of the 15th. I wish to put
on record, that, whatever may have been objectionable in the
private life of these and other traders, their successors in subse-
quent years, their conversation, deportment, and actions in my
presence were always considerate of my ministerial character.
I finally succeeded in engaging several new Galwas. And. on
Thursday, February 17, started late in my kongongo with a crew
of five, myself at the rudder. There were rumors of quarrels
and wars up-river, due to local jealousies over trade and the lo-
cation (i. e. " possession ") of white men. My crew was afraid
THE BELAMBLA HUT 131
and I yielded to their fear, by stopping for our lunch, in the for-
est, opposite the mouth of the Ngunye. And, again, I yielded
to them, to avoid the village on the right bank (whose people had
seized the kongongo some months before), and skirted along the
left bank; passed Tazie; and passed Anyambe-jena's, though
darkness was approaching. There were signs of rain, and the
wind was strong. It was now my turn to fear. There was real
ground for fear, in the rough water the wind was rising. But
the crew pulled well ; for, they wished to reach the safe shelter,
on Sakwele's Island, of Schmieder's house. His native trader
there I found keeping an ingenious calendar. In a small shingle
he had bored seven holes, with the names of the days opposite to
them. To the shingle was tied by a string a peg. Each morn-
ing he shifted the peg to the next hole. Though not a Christian,
he knew therefore when Sunday came.
The next day, there was the excitement of nearing home, even
the dreaded hippopotami seemed to welcome me ; certainly, they
bellowed ! A passing canoe, with hundreds of turtle eggs, ex-
claimed, "O! here is our white man!" On to Avyake's in a
heavy rain. (At the Coast, it would still really be "dry" sea-
son.) He was not at home; but his women welcomed me. So,
also, at other villages ; even by the young man who had stolen the
sheet some months before. And, finally at Belambla, Mokumi
fired a salute of guns. And Nwanaja reported all my goods
safe.
CHAPTER XII
THE BELAMBLA HOUSE MARCH, l8/6
THE very next clay, February 19, I was anxious to get to
work at my house-building. For this was the third trip
to the sea-coast, on which I had been delayed twice as
long as I had expected. But, I had to sit and receive visitors all
day ; ftandi and his people ; Ondeiie and his. He vexed me, by
asking me for rum ! How rum was ingrained into their ideas
of white men! And, how little I seemed to have impressed them
by my frequent assertions that I did not deal in rum ! Surely,
they seemed to think, that, though the missionary does not sell
it, he will hand it out a drink to us, as a matter of common hos-
pitality of the river! For, had not some of them seen me sit-
ting in company of white men who were drinking it? And, was
it not true, that Roman Catholic missionaries not only drank it.
but also bought and sold with it? That Saturday was the first
night in my Ogowe life that I slept on a mattress, one of my
new treasures just brought from the Coast.
On Monday, 21st, Kasa presented with me a young gorilla,
alive, in good health, small, not weighing over twenty pounds.
It was tame, but got angry, like a spoiled child, when its wishes
were crossed. If I had been only a naturalist, in the collecting
business, it would have been worth to me. in those early days of
gorilla investigation, if safely landed in Liverpool, $t,ooo. I
wished that I could send the animal to America ! Ekange re-
ported to me the number of days of his service during my ab-
sence. He had cut a notch on a bamboo stick for each day.
He reckoned 58 notches, saying that he had lost only 4
days. ftwanaja was satisfied with a gift of $3 (trade) for
the two months' care of my house. (She said that she had not
done it for "pay.'') And. I presented her with a dress, which
Miss Lush of Baraka had given me for her.
T was given an explanation of the meaning of a boat-song,
whose Fnglish 1 had often heard, but had not recognized. " Pass
'way! " " 'Way! pass! " It was a salutation to the spirits of the
locality that was being passed.
On Friday. 25th, Captain Stone's little steamer Oriingu, that
1.^
THE BELAMBLA HOUSE 133
had gone up-river with quite a tow of boats to his new trading-
house, stopped for me, on his way back, and took the gorilla for
me to Libreville, to be forwarded to the United States, as a gift
to the Philadelphia Zoological Garden. (It never reached its des-
tination. It had to pass through too many hands. Such pre-
cious articles are safe only in the care of the owner or a paid
employee.) Ekange, to whom I had given special care and in-
struction, deserted. We had had no difficulty. But, what he
had learned made him available as a trader's valet, with whom
he would obtain wages far beyond what I could give. This was
a constant experience in our mission schools. Very much as
young men in civilization employ their acquired knowledge for
advancements as clerks in a store, rather than as preachers in a
pulpit. But, I was distressed at the apparently little hold I was
obtaining on the Bakele. In singing hymns in the evenings with
my English-speaking young men, the Benga Mbiko, Melumu,
and the Mpongwe, ReTeno, I discovered that my own hitherto
unused book (unused, because I had had no companions who could
sing English) contained two songs, "Jesus of Nazareth passeth
by," and " Home of the soul," which I had first heard at the
convention at Baraka.
I soon observed a change in the Bakele. Few came to my hut,
and but little was brought for sale of food, or bamboo for build-
ing. My first feeling was one of depression, lest there was some
personal influence or ill-feeling against me. But, after a while,
I recognized the real cause, in the sudden increase of the number
of traders, both foreign and native. So many had come simul-
taneously, and paying larger prices, and higher wages than I had
been giving. Even my own Galwa employees, who had sought
engagement with me, and who had seemed satisfied with the
wages I stipulated, now asked for a raise. They were restless
because they saw that the traders' boat-crews were obtaining the
same wages ($4 per month), and were doing no house-build-
ing or anything else, while lying in the villages. They forgot
that those crews were journeying in their canoes every few days,
and my journeys were rare. King Ondene presented me with
two large pieces of dried elephant meat. At best, elephant meat
is coarse in fiber, and has a rank odor. Those pieces had been
so poorly dried, that they were impossible for me. But, my
workmen were pleased to have them.
On March 2, Dr. Ballay stopped to make a polite call, on his
way down-river, in company with a large number of interior
Okanda people. He mentioned that the explorer, Dr. Lenz, was
i 3 4 MY OGOWE
at Lope, ioo miles farther in the Interior. And, in the after-
noon, a canoe of Akandas from Dr. Lenz, passed down, for a
load of supplies from Adalinananga. How all this impressed me
with thought of the number of men, the efficiency of influence,
and the power of wealth that were back of these commercial
and scientific movements, while I was hampered at every step.
Almost every day, there was some confusion or dissatisfaction.
Ajufie came to get his pay; and left. He had not worked on
even seven days; yet he produced a tally-stick with ten notches,
and asserted that he had worked ten days ! It was not often that
my employees made such palpable lies. Of course. I did not yield.
He accepted his proper pay ; and, I was glad to have him go. The
Galwas were complaining of hard work, dragging logs to be
squared as sills for the house. There was trouble also about
food; not as to quantity (in that I was just) but that the mess-
mate did not have it ready promptly! Some tribes, or individuals
in tribes, used as their staple staff of life only cassava; others,
only plantains. I could not always supply both. The traders
had no such difficulties; their better-paid servants took what was
given them, or a lash: for, if one disliked his ration he could
always get rum with which the ration was easily supplemented.
The young Mpongwe man, ReTeno, from Baraka, who had un-
willingly yielded to Dr. Bushnell's urgency that he should join
me, could have been of great assistance by his knowledge of a
civilized household's affairs. But he had no interest in the
missionary side of my work ; and grumbled about having to do
without his coast-tribe comforts, forgetful of the greater sacri-
fices I was making.
I went, on Saturday, March 4, to hold a prayer-meeting in
Njamakiluma's village. The people were not attentive. On my
return, passing through Ranch's village, I saw a woman and a
little boy, in stocks, on a witchcraft charge.
As the Bakele had no clocks, and knew nothing of the value of
time, I changed my tactics for the Sundays. Instead of having
one public hour-service in the morning, and a similar hour for
afternoon Sabbath school, waiting often for a convenient num-
ber to gather. I accepted them as they came, by twos and tens,
at any hour all day. In that way Sunday, the 5th, was passed,
hirst came a Benga man with some Bakeles. As he had been in
our Coast Mission School. I invited him to remain to my noon
meal. Then, Chief Walinja, on his way to the witchcraft palaver
at ftandi's, where there was much shouting all day. After-
wards, some people from Myangane's. Then, the trader Dose
THE BELAMBLA HOUSE 135
and his crew. My Mbiko man, Melumu, from Corisco Island,
had been well-taught by Rev. C. De Heer, and was useful in my
little Sunday-school. (He could have risen to permanent
prominence and usefulness ; but, some years later, pride and
polygamy led him away. For a long time, though outside of
church communion, he tried to make Christianity and polygamy
consistent. )
On Monday, March 6, leaving Melumu in charge, I had to go
to Adalinananga for supplies. Stopped at various villages on
the way (as was my custom on journeys). At Manda's, I
found a man accused of witchcraft, closely held in foot-stocks and
neck-sticks. I plead for his life. At the trading-house that
night with Mr. Travis (in Mr. Sinclair's place) I sat down to
write letters to the United States ; but was called away by a mes-
senger who came in a canoe from Mr. Schmieder's. I went, and
found him alone, and sick with dysentery, complicated with
strange cramp pains in his chest. He looked badly. I suspected
native poison. Such things were done sometimes in revenge.
I pitied him, whatever his life had been. He had shown kind-
ness to me. He was alone, with no one to attend to him ; I re-
mained all night with him.
The next day, at Aguma, a little boy, Mwarogase, who said he
was a s*on of the late Galwa King Nkombe (Sun), asked for serv-
ice. He was too small ; so, I took him as a schoolboy. I liked
his smile. (He remained with me, off and on, many years.)
The following day, Mr. Schiff called on me, and asked me to
delay my return up-river one day, kindly offering to tow me, as
himself was going. But, I started ; for, I was anxious to get
back to my house-building, although it was a stormy season.
I reached Sakwele's house on " Goree " Island, native name,
Nenge-sika (island of wealth), and was welcomed by him and
his woman Akanda. I did not have a good rest; for, late at
night there was a cry of robbery. A thief was caught, who had
stolen Kombora's iron pot. The next morning, I quite approved
of his being tied and beaten. On to Manda's, where we cooked
our late breakfast at a little hamlet, near his beach. On to
Avyake's who gave me a sheep. On to Myangane's, who gave
me cassava. To another village, where I bought plantains,
There was news of a fight between the Senegal Goree traders
and the Bakele of Mbilye creek.
As I approached Belambla, there was an oppressive quiet.
The villages were in fear of war. At my hut, Melumu gave me
an account of two attempts at theft while I was away. Nwanaja
136 MY OGOWE
came; and while she was still continuing her call, Mr. Schiff
arrived at noon, on his way up-river. As he had offered me a
tow. I had him remain to lunch, making a special spread for him.
ftwanaja also was fed. Ondefie's wife also came, for a dress I
had promised her : for, it was too much for her dignity that " the
King's wife" had no dress, while " Chief " Kasa's had two!
With difficulty could I obtain food for my employees for over
Sunday. Xot that there was any scarcity, but the war-scare
had made the women afraid to go to their plantations. With the
mercuriality of the Xegro race (perhaps also with my own vari-
ations of health), some days were delightfully free from com-
plaints, insubordination, or fights. On Friday. March 17, all
started to work in good humor and good time And men came
unexpectedly to sell needed building materiels in unusual quan-
tities. So. after work was done, in the evening, I amused my
people by romping with them, renewing my university athletics in
jumping over logs, etc. The voluntary lessons at night were
good. Good humor seemed also to have spread to the adja-
cent villages. Their shouts and gun-firing were not of an angry
tone. Firing of guns was ever a part of Akele demonstration of
all or any feeling, whether of joy or grief!
Saturday. March 18, was a marked day in my house-building.
After weeks of prq>aration in collecting materiel, the first foun-
dation post was set. As the hole was dug. I was interested to note
that, in a depth of less than four feet, the spade passed through a
thin black surface loam, then stiff yellow clay, then streaks of
reddish clay mixed with quartz pebbles. I was beginning
to keep records of the Fahrenheit thermometer. At 3 p. m.
of the 19th. it marked 89 : a heavy tornado came up about 4:45
p. m.. and the mercury went down to 78 . (Such storms are al-
ways preceded by a fall in temperature. Nothing in the African
climate ever affected me so unpleasantly as those falls. Unless
T promptly wrapped myself, I would have a chill.) That change
of io would be the equivalent of a fall of 20" or 30 in the
United States.
On March 24. King Ondene came with a retinue of his peo-
ple. All native houses (and most of those of foreigners, in the
river, up to that date) were built level with the ground. Even
where the foreigners' houses had a plank floor, it was probably
only a few inches above the clay, lie came to see the new idea
of a house elevated on posts four or five feet above the ground.
His curiosity and delight was almost boyish, at sight of the use
of a spirit-level, and of the efficiency of a one-man cross-cut saw
THE BELAMBLA HOUSt 137
that had been given me by my friend Mr. Wright of Tacony, Pa.
Other people came under the same curiosity, with Mawale from
Mbilye.
Regularly I gave Saturday afternoon to my workmen ; not so
much for their sake, or for any deserts on their part. But be-
cause I always took that time to go to the villages, if I went on
no other days, to notify them of the approaching Sunday and its
services. They kept no record of time ; Sunday had no claims on
them, especially as they did not know when it came around. By
my notification, I saved myself the annoyance of their bringing
articles for sale on that day. Having two professing Christians
with me, I sent them, Melumu and ReTeno, on the 25th, to hold a
meeting at Semegwe's, while I went to Walinja's.
With their aid also, I gave the Sunday-school a more organized
form than it had had. The evening singing became more attrac-
tive. And, there was aroused actually a spirit of emulation when
I gave my household a report of their success or failure in their
week's lessons.
It was difficult to make the natives understand that my pur-
chase of Belambla included the ownership of the trees that grew
on it, and the animals living on it. As to the ground, my right
was fully recognized; there was (up to that time) no attempt to
build on it. But, occasionally, I heard an axe ; and, on investiga-
tion, found some one felling a tree. On Monday, 27th, while
Ibanyi and a crowd of his people were visiting, there came also
Ivinene and his people. Then I heard a dog's bark and human
voices with the shout of hunting. I went to investigate, and
found two of Nandi's men. As they persisted, I hastened back
to the hut, and got my rifle with intent to shoot the dog. Ivinene
sustained me ; but, to save the animal, he followed me, and
shouted to the men a warning. I pursued the dog's voice to the
outline of my premises. There I stopped, making a dramatic
recognition of the same right against trespass on others which I
was claiming for myself.
I did not see the women use flowers as ornaments. I rather
wondered that they did not. On March 28, Shvanaja and seven
other women, led by one man. with palm-leaves in their hair,
and ferns around their shoulders, came marching to my door,
and, with much form, seated themselves. They said they had
come for gifts ; that they were on a dancing- tour of the villages,
and were on their way to King Ondene's, for the same purpose.
I could not understand whether their dance was merely for
amusement, or whether it had some superstitious significance.
138 MY OGOWE
But, since the days of Herod and Salome, women have danced
for a gift!
I had to make a hasty journey, on March 29, down to Aguma
trading-house, to bring a load of window- frames and other ma-
teriel I had left there. As usual, I stopped at villages, to hold at
least short meetings. At Myangane's, they were unusually su-
perstitious. They listened to my talk ; but, when I closed my eyes
in prayer, most of them ran away. Some undefined fear of my
talking to a " spirit "! On my return journey, March 31, I was
seized with a severe toothache. At Avyake's, on April 1, I gave
a cloth to the woman Bya-utata. She was the only one there
who manifested any interest. She asked me why I did not al-
ways have a service there, instead of (as sometimes I had done)
only stopping to eat. At Belambla again, Melumu, whom T
had left in charge, reported that a chicken had been stolen. On
his own motion, he paid me for it, saying that his having been
left in charge made him responsible even for losses ! I had
never met with such an exalted point of ethics in a native. But.
he was an unusually bright, even erratic, young man.
My toothache continued, so that, on Sunday, April 2, I could
not preach. Melumu conducted the service, while I led in
prayer. In selecting hymns from the Benga collection, he chose
one, a " Prayer for the sick," meaning me !
A mail, delayed for two months, came on Thursday, April 13.
It had come by the Pioneer, as far as Adalinananga, and thence,
was kindly forwarded from a new firm, Taylor's, by one of his
native traders. It came as a great blessing; for, I was sick in
bed with fever. What a variety of news ! What wealth of
love and friendship ! From parents and children ; from my
friend Thos. G. Morton, M. 1)., of Philadelphia; from my friend
Mrs. Patten, of Philadelphia, about a stove I had ordered
through her ; from my father, about the iron-fence I had ordered
through him, for Mrs. Nassau's grave at Benita ; renewed sub-
scriptions to the Philadelphia Press and Presbyterian. And, the
British naturalist. Mr. Andrew Murray, of London, sent me a
copy of an English agricultural paper, the Gardiner's Chron-
icle, containing the account I had written in the previous fall, ac-
companying a rare specimen of a mygale spider.
My house-building was going on rapidly. The frame was up ;
and on the 15th of April. I marked the day by raising the ridge-
pole to its place. How slow the people were to learn that I
would not purchase on Sunday! Tt was not strange that per-
sons from a distance, who knew of no division of days, should
W
P
i i
Pl,
CO
W
i i
o
THE BELAMBLA HOUSE 139
happen to come on Sunday. I showed them no displeasure ;
but, in my strong desire to guard the sanctity of the day, I did
not allow them even to land their goods on my premises. If
they chose to go to an adjacent village, and wait until the mor-
row, I promised to buy. But, my friend Nwanaja, who knew
better, in coming to services on April 16, brought along food to
sell, and a present of a fine pumpkin grown from seed I had
given her some months previously. I do not know by what sys-
tem of ethics she may have thought that my rule against buying
building materiel would not apply to food. Food was a neces-
sary. If it was right to cook food on Sunday, why not also buy
it on that day? Or, did the fact that she " came to church " jus-
tify the sale of her food? Poor woman! she was not very far
from some of my countrymen, who have concluded a horse-sale
at a rural church door.
I would have been pleased to accept the pumpkin alone ; but,
as she had so mixed it in her ethics of the clay, I declined it.
She remained after meeting, and cooked the pumpkin for her
dinner.
How different the river from its condition of a year previous!
My situation had been one of isolation. But, now, with the
growth of trade, and new firms, and more white men, and in-
crease of French Senegal Goree traders and other coast tribes-
men, there was every few days the passing of large canoes
manned, not like my small one of five or six paddles, but by
strong vociferous crews of fifteen or twenty. Those big na-
tive traders did not limit themselves to my narrow economies
and discomforts. Their large canoes at the stern had a raised
platform, on which they reclined on rugs with their women.
Some assumed such dignity that they had among their attend-
ants a trumpeter who blared notes of warning as they passed
the various villages. This very much impressed the Bakele, who
would gather on the bluffs, or at the boat-landings, with shouts
of admiration. White men also often passed, on trips of inspec-
tion of their subordinates, whose trading-houses were already
up-river beyond me. Mr. Travis came and spent a day with
me, on one such trip. And Dr. Ballay. with his invariable polite-
ness, stopped for a few minutes on his way to Gaboon, where he
was going to obtain interpreters, other civilized servants, etc.,
etc., for his expedition with Count De Brazza.
How particular I had to be about precedents and appearances,
in matters, of which I would have taken no notice, in the United
States, or even in the degree of civilization of the Coast ! Kasa
i 4 o MY OGOWE
and his people came to meeting - on Sunday. April 30, having
with them a very large ivory tusk, which he wished to leave in
my care for the day. I declined. I wished all visits to my
premises on the Sundays to be entirely divested of any com-
mercial aspect. Even on a week day, I think I would have hesi-
tated about the tusk; just because ivory was the great factor in
trade. An unexplained report that I had ivory in my hut would
have been basis for belief that I was trading. And. I had had
such a long and trying experience in the effort to stand before
the natives as having for my highest and purest object, their
spiritual welfare. (Xot, indeed, that I was without human in-
terest in their works and wants; that I had proved in many
other ways.)
On May 3, I made a rapid journey down to Aguma, in two
canoes, to bring boards for the new house. On such oc-
casions, I would spend there a day or so purposely for the sake
of writing letters. At Belambla, constantly superintending
building, or school, or visitors, I found little time for letters. At
Aguma, I was a guest ; without responsibility or care, and could
write uninterruptedly. I met there a new white man, a Mr.
Findley. And I found Dr. Ballay sick. I too was seized with
a diarrhea that made me helpless for two days.
Then, on the 5th, though weak. I started back with my two
loaded canoes, to my usual night's camp at Sakwele's on Xenge-
sika Island. The next day. the river channel was so obstructed
with hippopotami, that, before venturing to enter a certain nar-
row way, I had to fire on the animals, in order to drive them
away. In passing any large sand-bank, my crew always wished
to go ashore to Seek turtle eggs. The animals deposited their
eggs at night, digging for that purpose, a hole on the top of the
beach above the water-line. They would leave the eggs cov-
ered in the sand ; and the heat of the sun by day was expected
to hatch them. The existence of the nest would be revealed by
the freshly broken sand. My crew found a nest with 100 eggs.
They had no shells; only a stiff membrane. I did not enjoy
them; they had a fishy taste. On to Manda's. where a man
hailed me. and presented me with a monkey-skin, for which ( for
a wonder!) he refused to receive a gift in return. At another
village, a Mpongwe trader gave me a leg of goat-mutton. On
to Myangane's, where I bought food. Passed Ondene's with-
out stopping, and he came running after me along the bank,
wishing to know the reason why. Found all in good order at
the house, under Melumu's care.
THE BELAMBLA HOUSE 141
On Sunday, May 7, little Kimagwe was present, and asked
some strange questions, showing that he was doing some think-
ing. In his lesson, he had been reading about Resurrection.
He asked, "Are there towns up there?" "Will the bodies of
those who have been burned arise?" "Will infants go to the
bad place?"' "Will they always be infants?*' "Will people
who shoot others with guns go to the bad place?" "Where
is the sunshine, now that the darkness of night has come?"
He told me that Kasa prayed now to God as well as to his
fetish ; that, one day. on a hunting expedition, he had prayed,
" Jesu! give me elephants! " and had obtained five. And, that,
on another day, desirous that his journey should not be hindered
by rain, he had prayed, "Jesu! delay the rain! " And rain did
not fall for five days, though it was raining on the other side
of the river. (That was not rare.) Kasa believed that his
prayers were answered.
By May 8. I reduced the number of employees, as, the new
house, though not fully enclosed, was roofed; and, we could
work, even on rainy days, under that roof. I still had ten people
on my premises, one Mpongwe. one Mbiko, one Akele. and
seven Galwas. I had eliminated some of the unworthy and
quarrelsome ones ; and work proceeded harmoniously and more
rapidly. The Bakele were daily astonished at the size and style
of the house.
By May 10. Kasa's people finally removed from their old loca-
tion to the new site, where they had been building near me.
There were signs that the rainy season was drawing to its close.
My food supply was " a feast or a famine." Just at that time.
T had more goat's meat than I needed. Walinja brought one
for sale. I did not need it for food that day. nor did I wish to
buy it and have it tied on the premises ; its bleating would annoy
me : unless tied, it would probably be lost. So. I said that I
would buv it if he brought it again in five days. Under those
circumstances most people would have lied, saying, " Yes," the
while they really intended to go and sell elsewhere. He agree-
ably surprised me by his truth. " No," he said. " T want the
money at once. I will not wait five days. I will sell it else-
where." I complimented him on his truth.
On Saturday, May 13. I sent ReTeno and Melumu to Kasa's
new town, to plant some little orange trees I had promised him.
At whatever places I lived, I always planted. Even at camps
and ordinarv stopping-places in the forest, T carefully stuck into
the ground the seeds of any fruit T was eating. (Doubtless
142 MY OGOWE
many of those trees are living, and perhaps their fruits have
been reproduced in other places on the Ogovve! The thought
was an inspiring one as to other seed which I was " sowing by
all waters.")
The growth of the house became quite absorbing. The 17th
of May was marked by my beginning to lay the flooring. I
had sent four of the young men on the preceding day on an
errand to Aguma ; a fifth left, and I was pleased to have him
go ; I was saved the necessity of dismissing him. Kimagwe
was away without permission. So, I had but four left : but, they
were helpful, though I did the actual work of fitting and nailing
the foot-wide planks, at the rate of five per hour. The work
tired my back, in stooping to drive the nails, and hasting from
point to point, to adjust. Not one of those four young men
could be trusted alone to cut a board. They had no experience,
and my boards were too few and precious for them to practice
on. I finished the flooring in three days. People came to ad-
mire it. A floor that was not mud or clay, and that was dry
enough to be slept on as a bed !
On Saturday, the 20th, Melumu and his crew of three re-
turned safely from Aguma. I was glad to have them back:
the place had been almost too quiet, though T was equally glad
to have gotten rid of unsatisfactory Esangeromba. I had now
nine. One of Melumu's characteristics, his vanity, came out in
rendering me an account of his journey. In his self-praise, his
exaggerations amounted to untruth.
I was constantly coming on native superstitions. On May
23, ftandi and his wife brought me a present of a jomba of
alligator-meat. T know no more appetizing form of meat-cook-
ery, even in civilization, than the native African jomba (igewu).
The meat did look so attractive, that I ventured to eat of it for
my supper. Just as T began to eat. came Ondene. T invited
him to sit. and gave him a piece of the jomba on my handsom-
est plate. He seemed afraid to eat it in my presence, and went
away, taking plate and all. to eat it in his town! I could not
learn the exact ground of his fear: whether my white man's
evil eye; or, that the food was a gift; or. whether alligator was
one of the articles taboo in his fetish menu. Two days later,
he sent me word, asking me to send a boy to carry some food
to me. T thought it strange, that, if there was food to 1x> car-
ried, why had he not sent it by his own messenger? So, T de-
clined. ( Perhaps I erred.) Then, he came himself, with two
of his women, returning my plate, and presenting me with a
THE BELAMBLA HOUSE 143
jomba of kondo-fish, a jomba of nganda, a bundle of ngwese,
a roll of boiled plantains, boiled yams, and green corn! He
first tasted of each; as if to show me that there was no poison
in them. Was that the reason he had hesitated over my alli-
gator meat? I enjoyed his fish and nganda pudding exceed-
ingly.
Native African poisons are many, and acquaintance with them
is general. Cases have occurred where deaths of even white
men (as a matter of revenge) have been suspected due to
poison. But, in all my thousands of times of eating at hands
of natives on my journeys, I never hesitated and rarely thought
of the possibility of poison.
My house was still growing. I had begun the tying of
bamboo on the outside walls, on April 5, and that part of the
work was completed on May 27. Then I began on the inside
partition walls. Having been so successful in building, I
dropped that work, for a clay's itineration, on Monday, the
29th. With seven of my people, I went up-river, stopping for
late breakfast at Mbomi. Thence, on to Aleke's. He had still
the rough manners I had protested against six months before,
but not quite so offensive. He wanted goods badly, and of-
fered me a sheep for sale. Its little lamb was so young that,
I think, he must have known it would not live away from its
mother. Recklessly, he still urged the sale. But, pitying the
lamb, I refused. There was a large meeting at night, and
better attention than I had had there before. Then, the next
day, I rowed for an hour on up-river farther than I had ever
gone. Was impressed with its width, depth, and magnificent
curves. I came to a village where a man named Tyityi told
me more about the Interior than I had ever heard from any
one, foreigner or native, in the Ogowe. For the first time, I
heard a native name the Nyam-Nyam tribe, of which I had
read as being in the center of the continent. His accounts were
all in accordance with what I had read of the best travels in
the Interior. He quite stimulated my enthusiasm for a journey
thither. O ! I thought, science and commerce and politics can
send De Brazza and Ballay and Lenz ; why could not my
Church have consented to let me go? He told me much about
the customs of those interior tribes. I might have been a
pioneer to them ! Years afterward, other men traveled there,
and wrote books, and told of things new to them and to the
world, things of which I had known, but had been allowed no
opportunity to verify! That night, after return to my house,
144 MY OGOWE
I had to get out of bed to stop a noisy quarrel between two of
my Galwas, Jenagani and Ayenwe.
Work on the house progressed well ; all its bamboo portions,
walls and partitions, were complete; and Melumu was putting in
the windows and doors. It would have been finished and ready
for occupancy by that date (June 7), if I had not interrupted the
work by itinerations and other boat-journeys. I had planned
that the house should be a one and a half story. But, I had no
boards for an attic floor. Shortly after this, came a canoe with
a stove, brought to Aguma by the Pioneer. Up to that time, my
cooking had been done in native fashion, on the clay floor.
Some of my people whom I had allowed to visit their homes,
had returned from Aguma; and, on the 12th. I started them all
for a finish, at separate jobs, one at washing: one at weeding
around the huts; one with a machete in the overgrown
grass and bushes; one at painting; one at coal-tarring
the foundation-posts, against white-ants: one strengthening the
pillars of the veranda; and two at the doors and windows. 1
appointed two Galwas to remain and keep the premises while I
should l>e away on my expected semiannual journey to the meet-
ings at Gaboon. (T did not appreciate the note of coming evil
when one of them, Ananga-re-we, came in the evening to demand
an increase in wages.)
The last of the doors, the front door, had been put in place,
in the afternoon of the 13th. There was a sadness about it that
dampened the otherwise joy of the near completion of my
house. That door was the front door of my first African home,
of the old Maluku Girls' School-house on Corisco Island, in [861.
It had been torn down, after the Evangasimba Station work had
been transferred to Benita. about 1869. Dr. Ballay had returned
on the Pioneer; and, on the 16th of June, he stopped on a |x)lite
call, as he passed Belambla with five large canoes of employees
and goods, on his way to rejoin Count De Brazza who was wait-
ing for him above the Rapids at Lope in the Okanda country. 200
miles farther in the Interior. The two Galwa men. Lendaginya
and Ananga-re-we, refused to stand by their agreement to stay
and take charge of the premises while I should be away at Ga-
boon. It was a " strike " for higher wages, besides being a break-
ing of their previous engagement. / never yielded to a strike.
I preferred to suffer loss, if need were. It is true that their serv-
ice as guardians required at least one of them to remain on the
premises all the time; but, there was no labor. They would have
an easy time of sitting down and doing nothing, except guarding
THE BELAMBLA HOUSE 145
against white ants and thieves. So, I put the care of the house
and grounds in the hands of ftwanaja, Kasa's head wife and
the two lads Dumawebe and Kimagwe. Kasa himself was not
at home when I made this bargain with his wife.
On Saturday, June 17, I was busy packing, and transferring
all my belongings from the hut to the new house; entirely com-
pleted, but which I had not yet occupied. I tightly closed and
barred all its doors and windows, giving the key to 5hvanaja, to
whom I promised to be back in a certain number of weeks
(days). That was unwise, considering that, on three of my
previous absences, I had been detained twice as long as I had ex-
pected. Though there was no probable detention of which I
could think, I should have left room for possible ones. With
my kongongo heavily laden, I started down-river, stopping at
all villages, and remaining over Sunday, at Manda's. And, on
Monday, the 19th, to Aguma. There I met two new men,
Messrs. Louis and Hutchinson of Taylor & Scott's trading-
house: and a new German with Mr. Lubcke, in place of Mr.
Schmieden
Leaving dog Brownie in the care of the Aguma H. & C. House.
I started down-river, on June 21. On the way, stopped at
Aveya's, to debark Anangarewe. His delighted mother broke
into a dance as she saw him coming. He seemed to think that
his broken promise for Belambla was a " closed incident." and
offered me a parting present, which I refused, though his mother
begged me to accept it. I wished him and Lendaginya to under-
stand that I wanted nothing more to do with either of them. I
engaged Aveya to go to supplement ftwanaja, in one month.
Dropped others of the employees at their homes, on the way.
At Atangino. the village of one of them, Zintango, I stopped for
the night. On the 22d, on, past Oranga, and to Igenja. for the
night. On the 23d. in the Nkami district, and at Chief Omva-
ombe's, for the night. On Saturday 24, lunched in the forest
where I was interested in the variety of animals, monkeys,
kicia. crocodiles, nests in a tree of the ntyigo (a species between
the gorilla and the chimpanzee). Reached Onanga's for the
night; where I remained over the 25th, Sunday. But the peo-
ple would not come to meeting, because the mourning for their
" king " (who had died a year before) was not yet ended. And.
they were vexed at my crew for wearing hats : no kind of orna-
ment or dignified apparel being worn during mournings ! One
woman carried her indignation so far as to seize and attempt to
confiscate one of the hats!
146 MY OGOWE
On Monday the 26th, on to Augala; and on down to the
mouth after dark. I attempted to look whether the Hudson
was awaiting me, by appointment. But, the night was dark ;
and, I would not venture out on the windy sea. Spent the night
at a little trading-house on Nengie Island.
The next morning, the 27th, the Hudson was seen at anchor out
at sea. I boarded her, being saluted by her American flag, and
finding there a large mail. With fine winds, landed at Libre-
ville about 9 a. m. of the 28th. Mr. Reading was at the beach
to welcome me; and I was entertained by Mrs. Reading. Was
welcomed also by the Bushnells. Miss Dewsnap was away, hav-
ing gone on a visit at Victoria, Kamerun. with our former Miss
Lush, who had married the Rev. Mr. Smith of the English Bap-
tist Mission at that place. I sent to my friend Thomas G. Morton,
M.D., of Philadelphia, two mandril monkeys, and an eye-
worm. He wrote me subsequently, telling of the monkeys' de-
structive antics in his office. Like all animals coming from the
torrid zone, no ordinary dwelling on a temperate region is suf-
ficiently warm for them in winter. He sent them to a friend's
conservatory; but t.ftey soon died. The eye-worm, though in an
imperfect state, was a great rarity : the first known to be ex-
amined in the L T nited States. Prof. Leidy, of the University of
Pennsylvania, wrote of it in a medical journal, calling it Dranun-
culus Log.
On the 30th. read with intense interest, in a copy of the Lon-
don Illustrated News, an account of Lieutenant Cameron's jour-
ney across Africa. He had entered from the east coast in search
of lost Livingstone: met Livingstone's faithful servants bringing
his corpse on their wonderful journey to the ocean: had con-
tinued his own journey to Lake Tanganyika : had failed to de-
scend (what Stanley later proved to be) its Kongo outlet; and,
deflecting southward, had gone by land to the southwest coast,
emerging in Loanda.
The frigate Venus, of the French admiral, entered the harbor
on July 1. And. on Monday 3. with Dr. Bushnell. T went to
pav my respects. The admiral was very much interested in my
statements about the Ogowe. particularly as France was just at
that time pushing her claims in t lie Interior. When we left, he
gave us a salute of six guns. As the meetings of presbytery and
mission were to be held at Flongo Station, on Corisco Island.
Dr. Bushnell and I, on leaving the Venus, immediately boarded
the Hudson. And, with a good run. we were at Elongo, the sta-
tion of Rev. C. De Heer, the next morning.
THE BELAMBLA HOUSE 147
The native minister, Rev. Mr. Ibiya, occupying- the former
white station, Evangasimba. was there. Also three of my sister's
candidates for the ministry, Myongo, Petiye. and Kongolo, for
examination. On July 6, the Hudson, promising to come soon
for me, returned to Libreville.
I was entertained, part of the time, at Mr. Ibiya's, where I
was doing, with him, revision work on the Benga New Testa-
ment. And, on another day, I set my Galwa men at cutting away
the grass which was shamefully overgrown about the graves of
my friends, Rev. T. S. Ogden, and Rev. George Paull. I felt
sadly, to see the old Evangasimba house in ruins. It had be-
come so old, that it was being taken down, to utilize elsewhere
what of its lumber was still intact from white ants.
While at Mr. De Heer's, I was present at the marriage to one
of his employees, Vane, of a young woman, Beyana, who had
been my special pet at the Maluku School, twelve years before.
I was delayed on Corisco, more than ten days, by the failure of
the Hudson to return for me. (This was one of the unexpected
delays on which I had not counted when I promised 5hvanaja to
return to Belambla in a certain number of days.) It finally
came on Saturday, July 22.
Though my promised number of days were passing, I had then
no thought of danger there. And, in any event, before re-
turning to the Ogowe, it was necessary for me to go to Benita, in
order to erect around my graves there, the ordered iron fence,
which most unexpectedly, had just then arrived by the Hudson.
(This was another delay, on which I had not counted when I gave
my dates to Nwanaja.) After his failure about the Bolondo
house. I could not trust Mr. MenkeFs offer to do that cemetery
work for me.
On Monday the 24th. sail was set for Benita, which was
reached next day. The erection of the fence, with few tools
and unskilled native aid, took time and hard labor. I spent my
days at the Mbade cemetery, and my evenings at Bolondo. in
company of my sister and Miss Jones. I obtained candidate
Kongolo as my companion, in place of Melumu. And on Mon-
day. July 31, on the Hudson, started back to Libreville, which,
because of opposing winds, stopping at Elongo, and the loss of
our anchor, we did not reach until late at night of Saturday, Au-
gust 5. Fortunately, for my anxiety, which by that time had
become real, I met on the beach a Xkami man of the Ogowe, who
said the news of the river were good. (He did not lie: for,
148 MY OGOWE
afterwards, on comparison of dates, I found, that up to the time
when he had left the river, all was safe.)
A mission meeting was held; and Mr. Reading made plans to
accompany me, on a visit to the Ogowe. as he was interested by
my tales of that river.
The attempt of young candidate Petiye to seek as his wife the
young Mpongwe lady, Akera, though entirely honorable, and
encouraged by herself and Mr. Reading, my sister and myself,
raised such a storm of indignation, that a mob of men, led by her
brother Ndama, came on the premises, threatening to assault
Petiye, and to break up the Baraka Girls' School. Mrs. Bushnell
acted very bravely. When the crowd of angry men reached the
front iron gate, she thrust her bare arms through it. as a bolt.
They could easily have pushed her aside. But, the Mpongwes
were a polite people ; and Mrs. Bushnell had ever been held in
great respect. Police were summoned ; Ndama was arrested :
the mob dispersed ; Petiye was secretly taken to safety on the
Hudson; and a pretty romance was ruined, with a necessarily un-
happy ending. Akera still lives, a good Christian woman, after
passing through several unwilling marriages. Petiye is dead :
marring his Christian years of usefulness, and barring entrance
into the ministry, through being forced by his family into po-
lygamy.
CHAPTER XIII
A HIGHWAY ROBBER, AUGUST, 1876
FINALLY, on Monday, August 14, the date on which I
should have been back at .Belambla, Mr. Reading and I
started, on the Hudson, for the Ogowe, having in tow my
canoe and kongongo. As usual, the vessel was slow, even un-
necessarily so; I was amazed at the delays and I began to be
anxious about my house.
We did not reach the Nazareth mouth of the river until Fri-
day, August 18. I gathered our two crafts and their loads of
goods at the little trading-house wood-station of Mr. Schulze on
Nengie Island. In the evening, 1 sent three of my Galwa people
in a canoe across the bay to the village of Lisboa. For two
years, a great variety of little steamers had been passing the
Orungu gate of the river, unharmed, the Orungu themselves had
followed trade up the river, and were associating with the tribes
there, and a sop had been given them by the German home hav-
ing erected the wood-station on Nengie. I had no idea that the
old coast monopoly had not died. My crew returned, without
food, saying that they had been robbed, and one of them, Ayenwe,
was maltreated by the Orungu, on account of a war (of which we
had not heard) between their two tribes. Had we known of
it, I would not have sent them, nor would they have gone.
The next morning, Saturday, August 19, was enacted a scene
that might have been a tragedy. My kongongo and large canoe
could not carry all the goods I had brought on the Hudson.
Purposely, I intended to leave some of mine for a future journey,
in care of the little trading-house. Mr. Reading and I were se-
lecting and separating, choosing what should be taken in our
two crafts. While thus occupied, we saw coming to us a fleet
of canoes with forty armed, war-painted, angry, shouting Orungu
men from Lisboa. My Galwas were terrified. I knew that
the Orungu had resented the breaking of their trade monopoly,
by the entrance of white men into the Ogowe interior. But
they had been unable to do anything to stop the Pioneer and
other little steamers that rapidly carried white men and their
goods (goods that the monopoly claimed belonged to Orungu)
149
ISO MY OGOWE
safely past their borders, to the despised Gahva and Bakele. Be-
cause of that resentment. I had availed myself of the safety of
the Pioneer's deck, just two years before. But, now, I had as-
sumed that the Orungu had hopelessly given up thoughts of force,
seeing that so many new traders, and even a French expedition,
had entered the river after me. I therefore had not thought it
a venture, that I should make this journey past their tribe with
slow-going paddles. Probably I could have done so. if I had
not revealed my presence by sending to Lisboa for food. The
shouting, yelling Orungu. led by two men whose names I after-
ward learned as Ndambenje and Aziza-njele, leaped ashore, to
where we stood by our two half-loaded crafts, and other boxes of
goods lying on the beach. The assault I at once felt was not
against our crews, nor against my companion, Mr. Reading, but
against myself. As he had, at that time, only a slight knowledge
of the Mpongwe (of which Orungu is a dialect) I requested him
to let me bear the brunt, but that he should stand near me in the
rear. He did so, placing his gun and my rifle prominently
against the side of the hut.
I did not really think that personal violence would be given
us. Among the wilder tribes, that could be possible. But, the
Orungu were familiar with civilized Gaboon. Yet, it was
probable that we would be robbed. To what extent, might de-
pend on our diplomacy. In a few quiet words I gave my idea
to Mr. Reading, that, in the end, I might yield to the giving of
some of our goods, as an alternative to having them all seized.
Our assailant was a sufficiently astute man to know that in being
given even a compelled gift he was safe; while an out and out
robbery could be reported to the French government at Libreville.
My cue therefore was to hold him off in the coming discussion.
with a bluff of audacity, until be should lessen his demands. Mr.
Reading, from time to time, interjecting (in English) a word of
advice or suggestion, in a tone which the other could not over-
hear. The forty men rushed among our people, pushing them
violently aside, and laying hands on the boxes. T do not know
whether this was only a feint or a real attempt. Tn either ease.
Aziza-njele fiercely ordered them aside, saying that the " pala-
ver " was his. that his business was with the white men. and that
they should await his commands. I stood quiet, erect, with
folded arms, lie saw we were unarmed, but not without arms
(as Mr. Reading showed). lie was a tall, splendidly built fel-
low, in the prime of life. lie began in a loud, fierce voice, and
with violent gesticulation, ordering that I should not go up-river
A HIGHWAY ROBBER 151
at all, but should turn and go back to Libreville. I distinctly, but
quietly told him that I would not go back, and that I would pro-
ceed up-river, where I had my house and my belongings. To
this, he made another angry talk. But, as I only silently stared
him in his face, he changed his position, and said that I might
proceed, but only on the condition that I remove my goods and
leave the river. As decidedly, I said that I would remain in the
river with other white men where my work was. Again he
raged, declaring that not only I, but all the other white men
should be driven out of the hated Interior. As I still only looked
him straight in his eye, he again changed his position. He said
that I might remain in the Ogowe, if I would promise to give
the Orungu a white mission station. I softened, and said that
his wish was a good one, but that I had no authority, and the
mission had no white man whom to send to him. He still urged
his claim for a mission station as greater than that of the despised
Bakele. As I still stood either severely silent, or uttering only a
taunting refusal, he again changed his position, demanding a na-
tive school-teacher, and an annual tribute of $180. Again, I
softened, saying that I would be pleased to locate a teacher with
him, if some Mpongwe Christian would volunteer. But, I
laughed at his word " tribute," saying that I paid tribute only to
France which governed both him and me.
That made him again angry, and he raged, saying that I
should at once give him $150, or he would seize my boxes. I
told him that he might seize them, if he chose to have me brand
him all over the country as a thief ; and suggested that, as to his
demand for a gift, I was willing to talk about it, if he made it
more reasonably ; and offered him $20. O ! what a scene he
made! ''Me! Aziza-njele! Me! Me! Twenty dollars!
Twenty dollars for me! Ha! Ha! Who ever heard! " And
he crouched down with clinched fingers to the ground, in dra-
matic disgust at the humiliation of being offered so despicable a
sum. He continued his dramatics for several minutes. And,
then, he reduced the demand to $100. " No." Then, to $80.
" No." And then to $50. I standing silent, and only shaking
my head in refusal, thought that, to make a precedent of giv-
ing under compulsion would expose me and others to demands in
the future. I reallv preferred, at the moment, that they should
rob me; and then I surely could get some satisfaction, not in re-
turned goods, but in their village being burned by the French.
But, Mr. Reading whispered to me, at the mention of $50, to
yield. I assented, and said. "Forty!" Aziza-njele agreed; and
152 MY OGOWE
smiling, he advanced, extending his hand. We shook hands;
and he exclaimed enthusiastically, " Now we are friends! " But.
his mob of forty men were disappointed at only $i apiece. And
so, for a different reason, were some of our own company; for,
Mr. Reading's two Mpongwes protested against his direction that
they should unlock a certain box of calico prints. Then, the mob
assaulted them. But, their leader ordered them off, saying again
that now we were " friends." In the United States, Mr. Reading
had been a successful merchant in a New Jersey village, with
all the polite arts of pleasing a customer and making the best
show. of goods. I left him alone in the task of paying out the
$40; he could do it more politically than I. Aziza-njele took his
goods, pleased, and a professed friend ; and knew that he was
safe from any charge of theft. (But, not long after, emboldened
probably by his success with me, his people robbed a canoe of
the German firm. The firm appealed to the Government, which
sent soldiers hidden in the hold of a small sailing vessel, which
intentionally anchored itself in a tempting manner near Lis-
boa. Men went off to assault the vessel ; and the captain and
crew, apparently alarmed, made no defense. But, when the
pirates took possession of the deck, suddenly, the hatches were
opened, the soldiers emerged, and several of the Orungu were
killed. That was the last attempt of the coast monopoly to ob-
struct the passage up-river of any white man's steamer boat, or
canoe. )
My settlement with Aziza-njele that morning was peaceable,
and without any actual violence, except that Mr. Reading's two
Mpongwes, Ngomi and Mintya, indignant, as they saw piece
after piece of bright-colored calico handed out by him (cloth
which they felt, with tribal covetousness, belonged to them),
again made a protest, and asked him to give only inferior goods.
One of the Orungu struck them. Little more was needed to
have raised a riot. But, swallowing the wrong. Mr. Reading
wisely told the two to be quiet ; and Aziza-njele justly flung aside
his offending man. * And, the Orungu departed. I was exhausted
with the nervous strain of the exactly two hours' contest. Aziza-
njele was a raging wave; I was the silent rock. But, waves
wear away rocks. We had had no time to breakfast before
those Orungu had assailed us. Though the hour was late, we
hasted to load our crafts, and depart without eating. It was
possible that a change of mind might lie made by some of our
assailants, and they might return and make a second demand.
Leaving some of our boxes in care of the little trading-house
FFTISM DOCTOR AND ATTF.NDAXT DRUMMERS
Facing page 153
A HIGHWAY ROBBER 153
native (a Mpongwe), we finally started, still heavily-laden, by
11.30 a. m. After putting a few miles between us and our ene-
mies, we stopped in the mangrove swamp for breakfast. The
dry season wind roughened the water, making waves that were
dangerous for our crafts so laden to the gunwale. I had kept
my nerve during the contest with Aziza-njele but, in the reac-
tion, I confess that I was afraid of the waves. Also, I was
suffering from a very sore toe, ulcerated by the season's chigoes.
Our crews were small; and we two white men had to take the
rudders, at night, in order to add one more paddle to our weary
employees, whom we were urging. They wished to camp in the
forest. But, we persisted, until, at 9 p. m., we reached the com-
fortable huts of King Esongi at Angala, thirty miles from the
sea. That distance could not have been made in a day's journey,
were it not for the assistance of the up-going tide, during six of
our nine hours paddling. Farther up the river, beyond the
reach of the tide, and against the river's constant current, eight-
een miles a day was the best I could usually expect to make.
The next day, Sunday, August 20, was a restful day. Esongi's
comments on my sermon of the services were really thoughtful.
I would have been glad to think they were aroused by a spiritual
interest, did I not know that he was bound by polygamy, slav-
ery, and superstition. But, as a literary exercise, his conversa-
tion was that of an educated man.
On the Monday, I lightened our crafts by leaving some of the
boxes in Esongi's care. I would pick them up when I should
on my return journey down-river, bring Mr. Reading. Passed
Onanga's village. And Nango, where the people shouted, urging
us to stop. Our laden crafts looked like wealth. They wished
to buy some of it with their offered provisions. But, I was suf-
fering with a headache, and we pushed ahead. Camped at night
in the forest. The next day passed without incident, except
that, late in the afternoon, we crossed to King Njagu's more
friendly side of the river. There, the stream is wide, and the
water was somewhat rough ; and a hippopotamus came toward us
with threatening bellows. But, we escaped and passed Njagu's,
seeking for a camp in the forest. For, Mr. Reading had been
so impressed by the Orungu robbery, that he did not wish to stop
in any village until we should reach Galwa. Finding no favor-
able spot, we landed at Chief Onwa-ombe's, for the night. The
scene was a romantic one. He was having a sorcerer make a
" medicine " for himself. The flaring torches, the painted men
and women, the dances, the drumming, the songs were thrilling.
154 MY OGOWE
The next morning, there was an attempt at trouble by a few
of the Nkami, in the same spirit, but not nearly the same de-
gree as by the Orungu. Probably, they knew of a disturbed
state of affairs (of which I was not then aware) and perhaps
our crews had told them of our having paid a price to the
Orungu. The Nkami were also a "coast" tribe (their lines
emerging on the sea at Cape Lopez) ; but, I had never heard of
any "monopoly" claims by them (except from Chief Isagi).
When I went to Oiiwa-ombe's house, to make the usual gift in re-
turn for our night's entertainment, some men rudely interfered,
despised my " gift," and demanded " tribute." There was, how-
ever, no violence, nor even threats, except by one young man.
But the old man was wise; he defended me; accepted my gifts;
the others were mollified, and we parted in peace. But the af-
fair made our starting late. In the afternoon, we passed
Ngumbe. Several times during the day we were alarmed at the
number, proximity and advances of the hippopotami. And, the
strong night wind made the waves dangerous. Had hoped to
reach a certain town, Avanga. But, failing, we made a good
camp, with a roaring fire.
The next day, August 24, we passed Avanga. A man, with
apparent great friendliness, volunteered to guide us in the tor-
tuous channels of the sand-banks until we reached his village, and
then was angry at us because we would not stop there, and made
some threats.
CHAPTER XIV
BELAMBLA PLUNDERED, AUGUST, 1876
1WAS glad when we finally passed the limits of the Nkami ;
for, all the way from the river's mouth, there had been evil
intimations (unappreciated at the time) of trouble ahead.
My Galwas were afraid of the Ivili at Ashuka ; to satisfy them,
we avoided it by keeping to the other side, the right bank; but,
in so doing, met much rough water. For the night, were wel-
comed by Ombya-ogwana at Igenja.
Mr. Reading had used his guns every day on the river ; so, the
crews were well-supplied with meat. On the 25th, I stopped at
Nandipo, to buy a gorilla skeleton; but, as the number of bones
was not complete, I left it. I failed to appreciate that even an
imperfect skeleton would, at that time, have been valued in
America. (Years afterward, I sent an entire carcass of a
gorilla to the United States, after several failures with natives
whom I had hired. They hunted for me, and had obtained car-
casses ; but, they did not know the necessity of keeping every little
bone of the hand or foot.) Passing Oranga, there were shouts
for us to stop and buy from them. Went on to Aromba, and
found it deserted; the huts were surrounded with weeds. Men
from Nandipo overtook us, anxious to sell the imperfect skeleton.
They were pleased with a price of a few dollars. Probably, in
the United States, at that time, I could have obtained for those
bones $100. Camping in the forest that night, I felt sure that
I smelled the peculiar, strong odor of leopards, and even imagined
that I heard their stealthy tread on dry forest leaves.
On Saturday, the 26th, we were passing villages of the
Wombalya district, and were in sight of the homes of several of
my Galwa. Stopped at Zintango's, for him to disembark, as
news was shouted that his sister had died while we were at the
coast. Passed Aveya's village, where his uncle violently pro-
tested, saying that Aveya had just recently come from Akele with
the news that my house had been robbed of all its goods. I
could not believe it; and passed on to Ayenwe's. On landing
there, the news was repeated. I could not believe it was all true.
Native reports are usually exaggerated. But, my crew at once
156 MY OGOWE
were alarmed, and feared to go on to Akele. I stopped for the
day ; I wanted time to think ; feeling anxious about the future of
my station, but unable, and unwilling, to decide, until I could
certify the reports.
Aveya, Anangarewe, Lendaginya and others came to services
on Sunday morning, the 27th. All the young men of the village
dressed up finely for the occasion. It was a quiet day, and warm,
for August. I tried not to think of the troubles ahead, about the
pillage of my Belambla, which news Aveya confirmed. But,
I could not refrain from at once planning whether it might not
be my duty to leave Akele, if Kasa should give me no satisfac-
tion. And, if so, where next should I go? To Galwa? The
hills across the river looked attractive, as a possible site for a
mission station. The keen-eyed villagers seemed to read my
thoughts, and began to ask me to come and settle there.
The next morning, the 28th, I was slow in leaving. Anxiety
to get back to Belambla was gone. 1 dreaded the unknown,
coming evils. There was repacking in the canoes ; our goods,
which necessarily for protection against theft or possible rain,
had been removed to the huts ; and bickering with the villagers
over the price of chickens, plantains, and other food supplies.
On our way, we met three large canoes passing down-river. On
hailing them, they said they were Goree (Senegal). There were
two white men with them, who, we were told later, were the trav-
eler Dr. Lenz and Air. Lubcke, representative of Woermann's
firm. On passing through the Ozugavizya creek, it was more
than usually obstructed with sand-banks ; so, we turned into the
Kenje cut-off. Looking ahead, I was speculating on every desir-
able point of land, as possible ground for a new station. My eyes
fixed themselves on a hill in the distance, which I did not just then
recognize. Mr. Reading also was looking at it. As if he was
reading my thought, he exclaimed, " There's the place for your
new station!" It was Kangwe Hill! His thought was soon
to be materialized. We reached Adalinananga by 5.30 p. m.
Messrs. Travis, Woodward and Findley, on a pier they were
building at the Aguma landing, met us with a confirmation of
the news of the robbery of my house. But, I felt slightly re-
lieved when they told me that no malicious damage was done to
the house itself; and that Kasa had a prisoner in chains awaiting
me.
News also that the Fan we had finally emerged from the for-
est, and had built in many places on the right bank of the river.
Not knowing how friendly they might l>e, and to avoid giving
BELAMBLA PLUNDERED 157
them any temptation, Mr. Reading and I rearranged our goods,
taking for the remainder of the journey, only food and necessary
supplies.
In journeying the next day, the absence of current, due to low
water, allowed our progress to be rapid, even in the tortuous
channels. We kept along the left or Akele bank. At a mbdgd
(fishing-camp) near Tazie, bought fresh fish. Details of the
robbery had been given us, as we journeyed that day. And, be-
fore sundown, were installed in Sakwele's new trading-house.
A Mpongwe trader, Angila-kukulani, was there sick. At night,
the beautiful moonlight was soothing to the anxieties of the day-
light ; and, our thoughts rested themselves elsewhere. Mr.
Reading said that the view reminded him of the Delaware River
at his Frenchtown, N. J., home.
The following day, August 30, we proceeded slowly, gather-
ing at the villages details of the robbery. Stopped at Avyake's
to eat. Landed at Ondene's in order to hear his somewhat
official report. As I listened to him. I felt in my heart as if he
was a partaker in the outrage. In passing Kasa's, was informed
that he was absent, at a fishing-camp farther up the river. I
reached my house at 5 p. m. There was an ominous silence :
for, there were no persons living on the premises. The grass
and white ants had been well kept down by Nwanaja whom I had
left in charge : but, the reports of breaking open of doors and
windows by the robbers were evidently true. I felt sad at the
probable necessity of leaving the place, as I saw no apparent pro-
tection for the future. Nwanaja came with the key of the house ;
and told me the story of the robbery: Everything had gone on
well and safely, until the time had expired at which I had
promised to return. Then, the Fanwe had suddenly appeared in
large numbers on the other side of the river, and the Bakele
became frightened, fearing an invasion by them. Kasa was so
alarmed that he ordered her to leave my house, and return for
safety to his village. She had objected, saying she wished
to remain and fulfill the trust I had placed in her. He insisted
that she should leave, as the house stood alone in the forest, and
that if she alone there with only a lad should be killed by the
Fanwe, her people would hold him responsible for her death.
She therefore had left. But. even so, the house, unprotected,
stood safe in the forest for two whole weeks; safe under the
prestige of my name and Kasa's.
Then, two Orungu traders, following a risen wave of coast-
tribe animosity (of which I had met one form at the Ogowe
158 MY OGOWH
mouth in the Lisboa assault on my Galwas) spread a report that
I did not intend to return, and that the coast-tribes were to pre-
vent the entrance into the river of any more white men. (A
part of Aziza-njele's raging talk to me!) Those same Orungu
had said that, as I would not return and no longer cared for my
house, having abandoned it, they would take possession of what
I had left. Thereupon, some of the Bakele. whether or not
they believed the statement that I had abandoned the house,
claimed that they were my heirs. So, they joined the Orungu
in breaking into the house, and shared in the plunder. I had
entire faith in Shvanaja. To this day, I do not believe that she
shared in the thefts. I believed her truthful: and though what
she told me might not be all true or the entire truth. I believe
that she believed what had been told to her. The next day,
Disingwe came to say that he was going up-river to call Kasa.
T did no work on the premises, except to keep the weeds from
the houses ; and awaited events.
The following day. Friday, September i. Kasa came, and ar-
ranged for the " palaver " for next day. Then, Saturday, the
2d. he, Ondene, and others came ; but, the talk was very unsatis-
factory; a shifting of responsibility; professed ignorance of who
were guilty; and pleas for delay, professedly for following up
some clues of guilt. The prisoner whom Kasa had been holding,
had been enabled to escape. Kasa returned to me some of my
goods, which he said he had rescued. In heart, I was not sure
that they were not found in the hands of his own people. They
were pieces of furniture, tubs, buckets, etc., which T would have
seen in their huts, had they not been returned ; and none of them
were valuable. Everything of value was gone. A personal
loss of $200; and of the Mission's, at least $100. Delay was
exasperating. Why should there be delay? Two weeks had
already elapsed since the robbery. Why had he done nothing in
the interval? But. I was helpless. I passed the time in enter-
taining Mr. Reading, who. from the very first, was pronounced
in his opinion that nothing would be gained by delay. On Mon-
day, the 4th. I took him on an excursion up-river: and found
that the Fanwe. who had appeared on the other side, were not
savages from the Interior : but. thev had come from the banks
of the Rembwe. an affluent of the Gaboon, where they had had
some contact with civilization.
As the question of abandoning Belambla was still sub judicc,
and T must needs come back thither, at least temporarily, after
BELAMBLA PLUNDERED 159
I should escort Mr. Reading down-river, I did some little work
at repairing the doors and windows, leaving in the house some
few goods, as sign of possession and occupancy. I did not fear
there would be any more stealing, when it was known that I
would return, as Kasa and others said that the real reason for
the robbery had been simply the taking possession of (supposed)
abandoned property ! I did not believe him. But, his words,
which were a placing of the blame on myself, made me consider,
what would have happened, if I had done differently. If I had
yielded to the two " strikers " in June, had increased their wage,
and they had stayed in charge, would they have remained?
Would they not have fled when the Orungu threats were made?
I feel sure they would have. Then, if I had not promised to
return by a certain date, would the case have been any better?
True, making the promise was not wise; but, a faithful servant,
like Nwanaja, would still hold to the trust. All would have
been well, if Kasa had not compelled her to abandon the house.
There was no real ground for his fear of Fanwe ; they did not
attack. Even, unprotected, the house would have been safe, but
for the conspiracy of the Orungu. Aziza-njele's outrage was not
a purely local affair. The monopolistic attempt was concerted
in the entire river. I believe that Kasa was a consenting factor
in the robbery, and was, in self-defense, trying to put the blame
on me.
On September 6, I escorted Mr. Reading to Aguma House.
There, Mr. Travis informed me of the attempted robbery of the
German agent Schulze and his Senegal clerk Mr. Mane, by the
Orungu at the mouth of the river ! So ! it was not only a mis-
sionary who could be attacked. Was it true that Aziza-njele
would attempt to drive all the white men out of the river? In-
deed, Mr. Travis represented that it would not be safe, now that
there had been an actual fight, for us to go there. Nevertheless,
as it was necessary for Mr. Reading to return, by a promised
date, to his work at Libreville, we continued to make prepara-
tions for the journey. But, we took a day off. remembering our
view of Kangwe Hill ten days previously, and went and exam-
ined that hill in the Ajumba branch of the Ogowe. and opposite
to a village Atangina (not Atangino). We admired the ro-
mantic ravine in the hillside, its unfailing spring of clear cool
water (a point that deeply impressed me, in view of my mistake
at Mbade (Benita) and disappointment with the Mbilye at
Belambla), and the extensive views from the hilltop. Sore as
160 MY OGOWK
my feet still were with chigoes, I pushed my way through the
dense bushes of that steep hillside, and climbed a tree to obtain
the view that was obstructed by the forest.
In my escort of Mr. Reading, on Saturday, September 9, I
started on the journey down ; stopping over Sunday at the village
of Ayenwe's wife. Resuming the journey on Monday, one of
my men, Jenagani, in fear of what might happen at Orungu, re-
fused to go any farther; I dismissed him from my service.
Stopped at Oranga, for food; but their prices were too high.
On to Igenja. where the people were dancing, dressed in ridicu-
lous attire. There, Zintango and Ayenwe did not refuse to go
on, but, they were so evidently paralyzed with fear, that I pre-
ferred they should await my return there. Then, a young man
Awora, who, as a Mpanja (a sub-division of Galwa) said he
was not afraid, volunteered. His mother, in fear, tried to pre-
vent his going with me. He ran away from her, and actually
jumped into the boat, as I pushed it off from the landing.
(Years afterward, he became a Christian, and a church elder.)
The rainy season was approaching; there actually were a few
showers. Because of low water in the channels, making our
progress often slow and tortuous, wc failed to reach Avanga ;
and, late at night, had to sleep in the forest. This was no new
experience for me ; but, I feared rain for Mr. Reading. Re-
suming the journey next morning, and stopping at Xgumbe, I
found Chief Isagi unusually attentive, giving us fowls, plantains,
and sugar-cane. T was pleased to see, that, instead of, as a
Nkami, siding with the Orungu coast tribe, he had taken the
part of the river tribes. It was he who had rescued Mr. Mane
and his crew, who had been attacked by Aziza-njele near Xgumbe
(not. as first report had said, at the mouth of the river). That
assault on Mr. Mane was even more serious than the outrage
on myself. In my case, the attempt was made only to prevent
my entering the river. In Mane's case, he had been followed.
and an attempt at robbery made, after he had ascended the river
some 70 miles, and was in the limits of another tribe. To aid
the crew. T hired two lads from Isagi. At King Njagu's. wc
met a number of Mpongwe traders who had been in the company
of Mr. Schulze's schooner when it had been attacked by the
Orungu, and who had come on up-river from Angala, " King "
Esongi's. Thev warned us not to attempt to emerge at Orungu.
during the then present excitement. Nevertheless, on the
Wednesday, we made an early start before dawn. We stuck in
a shallow channel, troublesomely near to a hippopotamus.
o
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o
Pi
Pi
w
>
5
BELAMBLA PLUNDERED 161
Finally, we reached Angala about 5 p. m. My friendly " King "
Esongi gave us the news of the river. I always respected his
intelligence and his judgment. He thought it safe for us to pro-
ceed. But, we hesitated, not knowing whether the Hudson had
kept its appointment to be there to meet us ; it would not be wise
to go into an Orungu village to wait for that vessel, nor safe
to camp in the mangrove swamp. So, on Thursday, the 14th,
I hired Esongi's nephew, Banga (Afraid) to go the thirty miles
to the mouth, and see whether the Hudson was there. In his
light canoe, he should have returned on Friday. As he had not
returned by Saturday morning, I went up-river to Onanga's, and
hired his large native boat and crew of six men, for $28, to take
Mr. Reading the thirty miles to sea, and the seventy miles by
sea, to Libreville (I, subsequently, to buy the boat). He was
anxious to get to his home, lest Mrs. Reading (who, of course,
would have heard native reports of Aziza-njele's doings) would
be unduly distressed. Banga returned that evening, reporting
" no Hudson."
On Monday, September 18, though there was a slight rain,
Mr. Reading was off at 7 a.m. with his stout Nkami crew.
(He reached Gaboon in entire safety.)
CHAPTER XV
BELAMBLA STATION ABANDONED. SEPTEMBER. 1 8/6
WHEN the rain had ceased. I loaded my kongongo. and
started on the ioo mile return to Adalinananga. Slept
in the forest. The next night. Tuesday, the 19th, we
rested at Yambe, having made forty miles in the two days. I
holding the rudder, so that every one of the crew could be
steadily at the paddles. The next day, the 20th, at Xgumbe. I
landed Isagi's two lads, and paid their wages. But, one of them.
Mbumba, had so attracted me by his good looks, and himself was
pleased, that I retained him in my service. With the risk of
rain, passed the night in the forest, at a deserted Avanga camp.
The next day, resisting the calls of people at various villages
for me to stop and purchase their wares, I went on to a new
village of the Igenja district, and found Ombya-ogwana (the
former Pioneer pilot) living there. He had quarreled with his
people about my Mpongwe ReTeno's brass-kettle (lost at the
time I had stopped at his former place on my way up-river with
Mr. Reading), and had removed to this new place. He had
very poor accommodations ; not even the native gum torches.
The next day. Friday, 22d. I had to hire two new young men,
being disappointed in not rinding awaiting me the two whom I
had allowed to leave, on our way down-river. But, during the
day, I met them coming to me. They had been detained by the
death of their friend Tivino's father. The increased crew pulled
well; and we reached Zintango's just at dusk. The next day. I
took the dismissed Xandi-kijemba again into my service, thus
making my company nine in number. Stopped at Ginigo.
Aveya's village, for him to go with me and show me localities
which he said were desirable building-sites. The Galwa were
now anxious for me to leave Belambla, and build with them. I
examined two fine localities; one. near Ginigo; and the other
farther up-river, in view of the mouth of Ozugavizya Creek.
Ascended that creek, and stopped at Ayenwe's father's village.
Orema-w-indego (Heart-of- Friends) to buy fish. Passed on.
and slept at Xtyuwaguma. Was well received, though the peo-
ple were noisy in excitement over their pursuit of a passing
162
BELAMBLA STATION ABANDONED 163
canoe, and the capture of a woman in some family quarrel.
They could not restrain their noise, even during my evening
prayers.
Even on the next day, Sunday, the 24th, though I rested, the
day was marked by much confusion. The people were still
noisy over their captive ; my crew were troublesome about their
food ; the little boys of the village were having riotous enjoy-
ment in their play of catching goats with a noose, as a lasso.
Their game became ludicrous even to me, when one male goat
resented proceedings, and put one of the lads to flight. One
young man made an effort to quiet the audience, while I was
holding service. But, he made things even worse, by his loud
and pugnacious conduct. I had read an American western book,
one of whose chapters told of certain lively scenes in a church
called " The Best Licks." That young man reminded me of it.
A pleasant contrast were the smiles and gratitude of a woman
who brought me a present of six eggs in return for a small gift
I had given her.
The following day. Monday. I stopped at Kangwe Hill to
lunch, and to inspect its lower side. Found another fine ravine,
and delightful fresh water. Then, we raced with two of Mr.
Travis's canoes, reaching his Aguma House at 1 p.m.; where
I was comfortably safe. For, that night, there was rain with
thunder and lightning, the first thunder of the new season; the
official announcement of the rainy. The water in the river also
was rising.
On Wednesdav. September 2j, I started again for Belambla.
Reached Anyambe-jena's early, and stopped for the night. A
stranger to the customs of those people might have thought I
was in some danger, from a loud quarrel that was going on.
There were some very war-like threats and acts, about some
brother-in-law of his. As long as native proceedings were not
about or on account of me, I had learned that it was wisest for
the visitor not to interfere. After the confusion had quieted. I
had my usual evening prayer.
The following day. the 28th, passed the villages of Manda and
Myangarie. stopping only at Onderie's. where I heard that Bakele
had been killing Faiiwe. That was very disastrous for my mis-
sion prospects, and utterly preposterous as a tribal political move.
T knew, as sure as fate, that no tribe could bar Faiiwe advance.
Diplomacy, if nothing better, should have told the Bakele to meet
them with friendship. Reached my Belambla house about 2
p. m. There again another blow! The house had ag'ain been
1 64 MY OGOWE
plundered ! This time, everything was gone, doors, windows,
furniture, and every movable thing! But, I did not feel hurt
as much as at the first robbery. The events of the intervening
four weeks, Kasa's futile efforts at reparation during my absence
down-river, information from interviews with white men and
other tribes, and my actual consideration of the probability of
removal to Galwa, had largely lessened my interest in Belambla.
Instead of pain for the loss to my work, I felt indignation at
the insult to myself. I had given faith and love and trust and
devotion to the Bakele. And, they had failed me. If it was
true that only Orungu had been the robbers in August, I felt
sure that Bakele, Goree, Orungu and all were sharers in this last
demonstration. How could I have any faith that anything,
even life, would be safe, if I remained at Belambla? Would
it not be a case of " casting pearls before swine "? There would
need to be some demonstration more vigorous and effective than
any yet made by Kasa or any one of the Bakele, to induce me
to remain. And, yet, the neighbors flocked to see me, and were
desirous to sell me food ! But, I said nothing publicly. It is
oriental to go slowly. Africans are oriental. They deride the
fluttering bluster of some white men.
In the meantime, whether my temporary continuance there
should be weeks or only a few days, I must put in order the
house in which I was still to sleep. On Friday, the 29th, I set
to work to mend the broken doors, and brush the dusty walls.
5hvanaja and Akanda came; and I gave them pretty dresses sent
for them by mission ladies at the Coast, before I had even
dreamed of such a thing as robbery. And, as to ftwanaja, I
still had entire faith in her. Misfortunes do not come singly.
About midnight, I was aroused by an alarm of fire. The bamboo
kitchen, only a few yards from the house, was in blaze. For-
tunately, the wind was very light, and was blowing from the
house. I worked desperately at beating out the flames, and in
forming my employees into a " bucket-line " with tins, kettles,
etc., from the river. They seemed indifferent or dazed. The
Kombe. Kongolo, was the only really active one. I had carried
out of the house some of my more valuable boxes and goods,
among them, a bolt of cloth, and had left them in Awora's care
in the workman's hut, which was at a safe distance. After the
fire was extinguished, the cloth was missing! He had stolen it !
At first, he denied: but, presently he admitted, and restored the
cloth. And, this, from one of my own employees! What was
BELAMBLA STATION ABANDONED 165
to be the end? (I have not at any time supposed that the fire
was other than accidental.)
On Saturday, the 30th, Kasa and many people came to in-
quire about the burning. They expressed sympathy. But, they
had a variety of suspicions. I think, now, that some of them
believed that it was a deliberate act of mine, to destroy what I
could not take away, as my first step in leaving them. I was
told that an investigation of the robbery of the house was being
made against N"andi's people..
I tried to put away the conflicting thoughts, in order properly
to conduct the Sunday services of October 1. Very few people
came. But, it was some satisfaction that the lad Kimagwe, of
whom I had had hopes in spiritual interest, came both to morn-
ing service and afternoon Sabbath school.
But, on Monday, it was difficult to suppress indignation at the
crowd of visitors who came asking for gifts. Did they really
despise me, that, having lost so much, and apparently accepting
the loss so meekly, my meekness was mistaken for weak-
ness ? The rich white man had so much, that what was gone by
the Orungu robbers was only a bagatelle, and he still had abun-
dance to give to his Bakele " friends " ? But I was to live and
eat, even the little while I might stay there; so, I began to re-
build the kitchen, with Kongolo as a blundering carpenter.
On October 2, I wrote from Belambla to my sister at Benita :
" I am kind of dazed. A great deal will have to be done.
When, or what, I don't know. Accumulated misfortunes have
left me without energy to do anything. That was the reason I
did not write you any more than the little note from Angala, on
the 1 8th of September, when Mr. Reading and I parted. I re-
turned safely up the river (the rains holding off) with my five
crew ; and gathered four others in the way. Reached Mr.
Travis' trading-post (Aguma) on Monday, September 25.
That night the rains began ' officially,' with thunder and light-
ning. On the Wednesday, I came on here, arriving early in the
afternoon of Thursday. All the month and while I had been
down the river with Mr. Reading, Kasa and his people had been
away fishing. They returned just the day before I did. He
had done nothing about the robbery ' palaver.' The stealing
had been repeated, and even damage done, with appearance of
destruction for ruin sake ; of which there had been none at first.
I can do nothing by myself. It is not as at Benita and Corisco.
r66 MY OGOWE
I am entirely in the hands of this one man. I think I ought not
to stay here, if no redress is obtained. Mr. Reading is certain
that I have not chosen the best locality, and should remove, inde-
pendent of this robbery matter. I wish some one could have
said so, exactly a year ago, when I begged the Mission to come
and assist my judgment in location, before expense of houses
and goods were put on these premises, Mr. Reading said that
he wanted to come on the Pioneer at that time for that purpose,
and would have done so, had not Dr. Bushnell hindered him by
saying that himself was coming, when he probably had no inten-
tion of doing so. [Dr. Bushnell had a habit of always ' expect-
ing.'] I chose this spot, (passing knowingly and intentionally
the very place, Kangwe Hill, which Mr. Reading now chooses)
solely for the two reasons, that, the Bakele people seemed so
friendly; and, that it was twenty-five miles nearer to the longed-
for Interior, than the spot of Mr. Reading's among the Galwas.
The latter is about one and a half miles from the trading-houses.
is the highest ground thus far on the river, steep and difficult of
ascent, in a great geographical center of three streams, etc.
When I chose Belambla, I could not know that the Bakele would
show such persistent carelessness for preaching and teaching, as
they have done. The Galwas seem to care for both. Also,
this spot is (I must admit) a somewhat lonely one. Kangwe
Hill (Mr. Reading's) is a place where I would be willing to
leave you alone, if I needed to be gone awhile. I am becoming
conscious that no new unmarried missionary can live here as T
have done; that probably no married one would be willing to
come this far with his wife: and that no recruit of any kind
will soon be found by the Board. So. the thought presses it-
self: Ought I to put more of life and expense on this place,
which, if I am taken away, will then go down: or, shall I start
again, at Kangwe, where, even if T die. or visit America, house
and goods will probably be safer in natives' hands than they
have proved here. And. yet. T do not blame the Bakele much.
They stole under the great temptation of the house being with-
out any guard; and. that, after weeks of no guardianship. It
was my fault, in leaving only a woman and two children. I
trusted too much. Then. too. the Fanwe have appeared on the
opposite side of the river, in several places (one village exactly
opposite my house) ; and. they will be a source of confusion,
probablv making this station like Nengenenge [an abandoned
station on the Gaboon River]. T could keep up this place with
natives, as an out-station. But, going away will be difficult.
. BELAMBLA STATION ABANDONED 167
Kasa may resist ; of course, he will object. And, going away
from a place I like (it is a beautiful spot, even Mr. Reading says
that, though Kangwe is grander) is painful work. And, be-
ginning over again, at clearing, and huts on ground, etc., (all of
which must be preliminary to a house on posts), just after I
have gotten into a comfortable neat house, is discouraging. It's
hard to know what is right to be done. I am willing to go over
the work again ; but, it might have been saved me, by a mission-
ary visit of inspection a year ago. And, is it best to stay here
just for the sake of holding the advance of twenty-five miles
farther into the Interior, even while these people do not seem
prepared for the reception of the Gospel? Ought I, by remain-
ing, accept, as if it was a small matter, the repeated robberies
of this house? That is, ought I not go away, to show the people
what they lose? These, and all sorts of questions come to me;
and I put them down, not for you to answer, for, they will prob-
ably be answered before your reply could come. You know
that I am not at all superstitious ; but, a little omen came to me
on last Thursday, on landing here : All the way, that day, the
sky was clouded, scarcely any sunshine. Just as I came to my
landing, the sun shone out. So, I think that there will be light,
some day, for Belambla, though, just how, I do not know.
Kasa is professing to try to get back my things ; but, I am losing
all confidence in him. His women were delighted with the
dresses. So, I say nothing, as yet, to any one about leaving.
He would at once cease any effort to recover my losses. On
the Friday night (the next day), after arrival here, one of the
three outhouses burned down, the kitchen. ReTeno was sleeping
in it, and had carelessly left the fire of logs burning near the side
of the hut. (I had sent the stove away for safety, when I took
Mr. Reading down-river.) There was but little wind, and what
there was blew past the frame of my dwelling, not toward
it.
" In the meanwhile, until I can see it proper to decide the
question of leaving or staying, I am building a small kitchen
behind the dwelling; it will be needed by a native, if I go away.
What patience ! So often in these African troubles, things de-
cide themselves just by waiting (and this is entirely consistent
with watchful observation of events and use of means). But,
the process of waiting is wearing. In getting Mr. Reading
down and out of the river [which a letter written by Mrs. Read-
ing at Gaboon, at the same time, to my sister at Benita, expressed
the hope that I would not risk him by attempting to do] I had
1 68 MY OGOWE
to try the ' waiting.' And, he got quite angry at me once,
because I would not move faster."
The diagram that appears elsewhere represents my little collec-
tion of buildings, at that time. The Ogowe. at that part of its
course, ran from a north-easterly to a south-westerly direction.
My house faced the setting sun.
The cold which I had caught, on the night of the fire, in-
creased ; and. by Wednesday, October 4. I was feverish. The
fever grew, as the days went by. I would not go to bed ; but.
sat wrapped in my overcoat, meeting visitors, and superintending
work. But, on Friday, October 6, I succumbed. To all my
other troubles was added a threatened attack of pneumonia. For
a week. T could do nothing. My diary records which T entered,
at that time, are chronologically incorrect from October 6 to
October 18. T made them, after a partial recovery, on inquiry
with Kongolo and my other people, as to the sequence of events;
the events I myself remembered. But. somewhere, T am short
of a day. Part of the time, I am sure I must have been uncon-
scious, for, I do not know how time elapsed. My cough was
hard. My employees brought me doses from my medicine-
chest, as I was able, from time to time, to direct, when awake
or conscious. I remember that, desiring warmth and air, I had
my bedding brought out of doors and placed in a hammock,
where I could lie wrapped in blankets in the shade of a tree, but
still in the hot African air. I remember that, one day, when
Kongolo offered me food, and I refused it (for. I was eating
nothing under that fever and cough) he. anxious in his loyalty,
protested. "You! Dr. Nassau! you! our only missionary! and
are vou going to die for not eating?" To a native African,
inability to eat is the worst sign in any sickness. I remember
also, that a lame female cat. which had been brought to me by
Masomami, because he thought it was my lost one. and which
I had fed and petted, showed its gratitude by climbing into the
hammock with me. Only the affection of a cat!
About the 9th, T was so faint for food, and yet without appe-
tite, that I determined to arouse it, and ordered a heroic menu;
a tin of canned oysters was opened, stewed with a large quan-
tity of hot chili peppers, and eaten with a roast ripe plantain.
It did me good !
About the 9th or 10th, T availed myself of a passing canoe
to send a letter to Aguma. Ondene came early in the morning:
I do not know what for. I declined to receive any Bakele vis-
BELAMBLA STATION ABANDONED 169
itors. The nth of October, my birthday anniversary, made me
feel that a continuance of such a kind of life would soon make
an old man of me. So weak and listless, and no appetite, while
my cough symptoms were improving. So, about the 12th, I
determined to rise, and attempt to do some work. A Mpongwe
trader brought me a note from Mr. Travis, confirming the report
of the killing and drowning of five Orungu, in their assault on
Agent Schulze. They were reaping as they had sown. Their
assault on me had found me helpless. But, back of the German
were his rich employer Woermann and the German Empire !
My attempt at energy had been unwise; and, about the 14th,
I was down again with my cough. Nevertheless, on the Sun-
day, I attempted to conduct the usual services. I was too weak
to make myself heard, and the small audience slipped away.
Indeed, at Sunday-school, some lads told Kongolo that the people
feared to come. Sickness and the prospect of death have a
terrifying influence on the native Africans. Several of my own
Galwa employees slipped away, to enjoy themselves otherwise.
5hvanaja brought one of my stolen utensils. Even she,
friendly woman, after recovering it, had retained it awhile, for
use in her kitchen ! For a moment, I did the good woman the
injustice of suspecting, that, having the keys, she was perhaps the
original thief. I was doubting everybody. But, I have heard
of similar acts being done in Christian America.
October 18 was a notable day. An Akele from near the.
Ngunye River came with some fine plantains to sell, and with
him two Fanwe acquaintances to see me ! They were from the
village just opposite across the river; and they had been afraid
to come before, because of my Bakele! There! I said to myself,
that may be the beginning of many Fanwe coming to a station
neglected by Bakele ! I had, when I began the Belambla work,
expected that Fanwe would appear on the river, perhaps in the
course of five years. They had actually arrived in less than
one! I was without letters, and needed supplies. In the dis-
turbed state of the river, I did not think it safe to send my crew.
At no time was I afraid for myself. And, I believed that my
presence would be a sufficient protection for the crew. I was
sure that people who would rob or steal, would not do so in my
presence. There was still some outward respect for the white
man. So, leaving Kongolo in charge, I got things together to
go down to Mr. Travis at Aguma, in order to meet the expected
Pioneer. She always made her initial journey, in the rainy
season, as soon as the river rose in September.
i;o MY OGOWE
On the way, stopped at Ondene's. He was alarmed when he
was told that Fafiwe had actually been visiting at my house.
While eating on an island opposite the Ngunye mouth, was
caught in a heavy rain; and reached Mr. Travis's very wet. in
the middle of the afternoon. I found there awaiting me a box,
brought by Mr. Schulze ten days before, containing a large and
precious list of letters.
In the evening, while chatting with Clerk Woodward. I pro-
posed to him that, on a certain day, he and I should go bird-
hunting. He looked at me with somewhat of surprise, saying.
"Do you hunt on Sunday?" To hunt on Sunday was not
strange for himself; but he seemed to think it inconsistent in the
clergyman. I replied. "Why! that day will not be Sunday: it
will l)e Saturday. " He disputed, and referred to the shop ac-
count-book and his own diary. I appealed to my diary; but,
had to admit that, during the sickness at Belambla. when for a
week I made no entries day by day, I may have dropped a day.
But. we held the matter sub judicc, until the Pioneer should ar-
rive, agreeing that the question should be decided by the cap-
tain's log.
The Aguma traders were hospitable, their table free ; but.
their sleeping accommodations limited. So. I went to the Galwa
town, Atangina (the Predestined) of Chief Re-Xkombe, oppo-
site to Kangwe Hill, for lodging at nights. The people there
were polite, compared with the Bakele, not noisy or troublesome;
not standing in my light watching me when I wrote ; and care-
ful about noises in my presence. T had pleasant chats with them
in the evening. But. on Sunday evening, was scandalized by
four of my Gahvas going to a dance. I fined them; and two
of them left my service.
On October 20, I wrote to my sister at Benita :
" I came down here yesterday, hoping to meet the Pioneer.
which. I understood, was to be here on the 19th. T had several
reasons; needed to get some supplies from what I had left in
storage, at this trading-post ; wanted to send letters by the
Pioneer; had a hope that something in the letters I might expect
from the Board or the Mission, would help me to decide the
question about removing my station to this point; it was time
to hear from the Board about my proposal, temporarily to leave
their sen ice in order to join Mr. Bruce Walker on his proposed
journey of exploration; if T decided to come to Kangwe. T would
at once reveal my intentions to the Gal was. Also. I was weak
BELAMBLA STATION ABANDONED 171
from my long attack of cough, which found tender ground in
my throat never perfectly clear of a cold in the previous Novem-
ber. And, I wanted a change. I will go back to my station ;
and, if I remove from there to this place, I may have some
trouble in so doing. But, I hope that the Lord will protect
and direct."
In the mail. I found an excellent letter from Secretary Lowrie,
under date of June 20:
" It does trouble me not a little, to think of your being still
all alone there. ... It troubles me not a little to think of your
sister and Miss Jones being at Benita without the company of
any gentleman. In neither case does it seem right, wise, expe-
dient, or anything else! except it be necessary. But we must
pray and hope for reinforcement to both Benita and Ogowe."
On Monday, October 23, I announced to the Atangina people
that I would come and build at Kangwe. And, the next day, I
started back up-river, to inform the Bakele of my decision. One
of my eyes was very much swollen and painful with an eye-
worm. But, I held the rudder all the way, arriving at Belambla,
on Wednesday, the 25th. where I found things in good order
under Kongolo's care. He was over joyed on receiving letters
from his Benita home, which had come in my mail.
The next day, I announced to Kasa that I would leave. I
felt a little anxious as to how he would take it. I knew that,
according to native idea (which white traders, up to that time,
had been compelled to submit to) I and my house and goods, in
a sense, " belonged " to him. / might possibly be allowed to
leave, if I put some one in my place. But house and goods
must remain. Traders, under such circumstances, had succeeded
in removing their goods only by a secret flight at night. Kasa
seemed quite depressed ; did not say much ; and told me he would
come again to tell me what he thought. Two days later, he
came. We had a long talk, he trying to change my determina-
tion. \\ "hen he asked whether my only reason for going was
the robbery. I admitted that a great reason was my discovery of
the fair site and indispensable spring at Kangwe. He finally
assented not to obstruct me. on my promise that Belambla should
be retained as an out-station, with a native teacher always there.
Irrespective of the fact that this " saved his face," it fell in with
my own intentions. I. at no time, had thought of entirely clos-
172 MY OGOWE
ing Belambla. I intended to retain a native teacher there. The
interview was amicably closed by my presenting Kasa with a
trade-gun (worth about $3) as a parting gift. But, on Monday,
the 30th, he came to say I must delay my going, as he wished
me to listen to his public talk about my stolen goods. I was
somewhat amazed at this ; for, I did not believe that his " talk "
would amount to anything. Had he been sincere, he should
have spoken and acted more vigorously two months before. My
doubts were justified, when he came next day with fsfando. He
was still professing to be endeavoring to recover the goods.
(That was impossible, after the lapse of two months.) I read
to him a list of them, to the cash value of $300.
I never recovered any. During subsequent years, in my
journeys on the river. I saw small articles, pictures, pamphlets,
tools, etc., etc. But, I never " let on " that I recognized them.
There was no certainty that the native, on the wall of whose hut
the article was hanging, had been the thief. Quite possibly it
had been given to him, or he had bought it. Of one article, my
handsome $25 flute, I heard, as being in the possession of a
Goree trader. I never had any dealings with them ; they were
Mohammedans and French subjects from Senegal. Had I pur-
sued the matter, I could not have proved that he was the thief :
and, I could have recovered the flute, only on an expensive and
troublesome entry into the intricacies of French law. [Some
years later, my friend Thos. G. Morton, M.D., gave me the valu-
able one I now have, formerly his brother's.] I felt sad at
leaving the station ; I had put so much of prayer, and hope, and
care on it. [Long years afterward, under the Mission's French
Protestant successors in the Ogowe, I had, in 1906, a most
touching farewell service there, with one of the French mission-
aries and some Bakele Christians; among them was Kimagwe.]
On Tuesday. October 3T, I left Kongolo in charge of the
house and the little school, where he would hold a Sunday
service. As his assistants on the premises. I gave him two of
my young men. And, I bade good-by to Belambla!
I did not stop at any villages on the way down. There would
have been only the endless inquiry of, Why did I leave Bakele?
And the empty denial of any share in the robbery. Came up in
my mind the constant undercurrent of reasoning: If all these
professed " friends " were so sorry about the outrage, why had
not some of them revealed, pursued, and punished the offenders?
Had thev done so, I probably would not have left Belambla.
But, I still think that it was well that I did. Kangwe was a
BELAMBLA STATION ABANDONED 173
better locality ; and the Galwa a more hopeful people. I kept
on down the left bank, to Lembarene in the small Inenga tribe,
before crossing to Aguma. (That name, " Lembarene," has
since then been transferred to the site of the French headquar-
ters, three miles lower down on the right bank of the main
stream.) The report that I was seeking a new location for my
station had preceded me. An old woman, sister of the former
Galwa King Nkombe, married at Inenga, with a crowd of people
begged me to build there. But, I did not even entertain their
suggestion. There was no desirable site. Their plea, that they
were desirous to have their children taught, was, I believe, true.
Arrived at Aguma, I found another mail, which had come by
the Pioneer, five days previously. Mr. Woodward produced the
captain's statement that my chronology of days was wrong.
There was the loss of a day between the 6th and the 18th of
October. For three weeks I had been keeping Sabbath on Sat-
urday! Came on to Atangina, and w r as welcomed by its
"Chief'* or head-man, Re-Nkombe (Lord of the Sun). But,
immediately, his selfish interests began to object to my leaving
his side of the river.
CHAPTER XVI
WITH RE-NKOMBE, NOVEMBER, l8/6
THE next day, Wednesday, November i, I went to Agurna,
to put my boxes in order. While there, the body of a
Galwa, who, only the day before, had gone with a native
trader, was brought to his home. He had died of excessive
liquor drinking. The rum ruin was all around me!
I called a visit of ceremony on Galwa King Amale, an old
man of no force of character, at Adalinananga town. With
much assumed dignity, he informed me that he would come to
Atangina, and settle about the locality on which I might build !
When I returned to Atangina that evening, Re-Nkombe showed
me a place, on which he desired me to build, near him. There
were no villages on the Kangwe side, and he said that he feared
the Fan we would come and molest me. I assured him that
doubtless they would come, some day (as they did, two years
later); that I was not afraid of them; and that my choice of
Kangwe was unchangeable. And, he and I settled the matter,
without waiting for the old King. Indeed, Re-Nkombe, only an
inferior chief, was pleased that I recognized him without refer-
ence to the " King." At once. I hired one of his people.
Mamweme. The next day, I hired another, Kanizo. In the
afternoon, Re-Xkombe called me to go to Kangwe Hill, to
select the site for my temporary bamboo building. We went ;
and, he seemed satisfied to yield to my wishes, though he re-
gretted that I had put the river between him and myself.
I still think that I had acted wisely in my dealings with Kasa.
considering that he was Kasa and an Akclc. But, Re-Nkombe
was more civilized, and. I think, a man of less duplicity. And.
1 at once determined on a course more independent than I had
been able to adopt with Kasa. On our return to Atangina. 1
gave Re-Nkombe's little daughter, Aworo, two yards of calico
print (an ample garment for a child), and he gave me a chicken.
Thus the interchange of " friendship " gifts began. After
evening prayers, most of the villagers remained to hear me sing
hymns.
On Friday, November 3. Re-Nkombe told me that he was
'74
WITH RE-NKOMBE 175
going to Agtima on an errand ; and, as I was also going there,
we agreed to go together. He proposed, on the way, that I
should stop at a village, Loango-ayili, of his brother Dango,
and have a settlement of the sale of the Kangwe Hill property.
I liked all this promptness, as compared with the long delays and
excuses of Kasa at Belambla. We waited at Dango's, and sent
for the two Galwa Chiefs Amale and Magisi. They came ; and
after a short discussion, they all agreed to sell me the entire Hill,
from Audende Creek on the Hill's upper side, down to a place
called Ivenda-ntyango on its lower side, including an indefinite
amount of forest in a curved line between those two points.
The property would be in the shape of half an ellipse, the long
diameter being represented by the river. I never estimated how
many acres would be included in the tract ; probably, at least one
hundred. The land was not occupied by any villages ; for, the
Galwas were timid about living on that " Fafiwe side " of the
river; the steep hillsides were not available for plantations; and,
I was desirous to secure the large and otherwise useless tract
that would prevent the future attempts of natives to build near
me : thus to escape the annoyances I had been subjected to at
Belambla. T promptly paid to Re-Xkombe his named sum of
$20 (in trade-goods) and he divided it with the other men.
The next day, I went with my five young men to clear a site
for a temporary hut at the foot of Kangwe Hill. The day, Sat-
urday. November 4. marked the beginning of another era in my
Ogowe life, the Kangwe era. The site was on a little level at
the steep foot of the Hill, and on the edge of a ravine, down
which flowed a little stream from the spring farther up the range.
On the side of the stream was a space just wide enough for a
boat-house to be erected. In the evening, in Atangina village,
there came news of tribal war; and a war-dance so occupied the
people's attention, that the presence of even the white guest was
forgotten.
But. on Sunday morning, my services were well attended,
especially as there came a Mpongwe trader of some prominence,
Xgeza, who was with his Mpongwe attendants awaiting at
Aguma their trade-supplies from Mr. Travis. I often met this
man in later years. He had been educated in the Baraka School
at Libreville ; he held a good position, and had influence that
might have been for great good. But, his attitude to me always
seemed to be that of one who thought he was doing a favor in
attending the missionary's religious services. He was civilized,
and prided himself on his Mpongwe tribal position. Later, he
i 7 6 MY OGOWE
united with the Gaboon church, but not until after a service to
Mammon in the rum traffic, he had amassed enough money to
be called wealthy.
It was the middle of the rainy season. The average height of
the thermometer, during a year, is 85 . That afternoon, the
mercury fell from 84 to 73 . As jo is the annual minimum,
the fall of ten degrees in one hour was a very unusual reduction.
It was felt as much as a fall of 20 or 30 in one day, in the
United States. There was news that the war-reports of Satur-
day evening were true. A woman had been shot at Loango-
ayili village by some Bakele enemies.
Every day I went across the river to Kangwe Hill, to work
at the clearing for my new home. The evenings were spent in
Atangina. where I affiliated with the people. They sang for me
their native songs, and I responded with Benga and English
hymns, and English songs. While I had been acquiring the
Dikele dialect at Belambla, I made no effort to learn Galwa
(a variety of Mpongwe). But, as my workmen there had been
most of them Galwa; and my visits to Libreville had thrown me
among Mpongwe, I was becoming familiar with it. So, aban-
doning the Dikele, I set myself to acquire Mpongwe.
While superintending the work of clearing and building, I
often sat under the shade of the oil-palms, and wrote letters to
relatives in the United States, to churches and Sabbath schools,
or to officers of the Board.
On November 10. I wrote to my sister at Benita, in explana-
tion of my leaving Belambla :
" The animus of this entire Orungu trouble is that Portugal
(under British cruisers) has stopped the slave-trade with St.
Thomas Island, and the Orungu have no more means of gain.
While they had the slave-trade, they did not care for the com-
merce that went by them to the Galwa. Xow, their jealousy is
aroused. I confess that it is hard to leave Belambla. and begin
over again here, even though this place be more beautiful, and
the Galwa more hopeful. Perhaps. I have only myself to blame,
as. I saw this place two years ago. and passed it for Belambla,
for the sake of getting farther toward the Interior. I do not
remove from Akele because of the robbery; other considerations
presented by Mr. Reading move me. . . . But. I have felt less
about the having to begin to build over again, than about the
thought that my Akele work was lost. That fear is lessening,
under the hope that Kongolo may be an efficient aid. He was a
miserable blunderer at anything with tools; and I ceased to give
WITH RE-NKOMBE 177
him that kind of work. But I have had no one, who, like him,
has taken care of me, and my clothes, etc., and who can be manly
without seeming to think that the first evidence of manliness
was to be disobedient or disrespectful. He seems pleased with
the idea of " keeping station." ... I am writing this on a book
on my lap, sitting on my food-chest, by a mountain rill that
comes down this ravine, that reminds me of American hills.
These hills and ravines are just like those at Senje Falls of the
Bonito River."
In the evenings, on my * return from work, in the late after-
noon, the Atangina children wanted to be taught to read. (So
different from the Bakele children, few of whom had come with-
out urging!) Even two young women came, named Ovembwe
and Pando; the former seemed to have an awakening to the
truth that knowledge might be power, and that it might give her
more skill in the washing and ironing which she claimed she was
able to do. I had hitherto been having the lads living with me
do my washing. It was " clone " after a sort, even though they
had a charcoal iron with which to iron. When this young
" wife " of my patron Re-Nkombe told me she knew how to
iron. I hired her to do it. She was an improvement on my lads.
She had learned from the Mpongwe women, who. as " tempo-
rary wives." I found folloAving most of the traders' houses, doing
the washing and sewing of the house. They had learned at
Libreville from our Baraka school-girls. So, in this, and in
other indirect ways, I was helped by our coast-schools. There
was much labor at those schools, to which there appeared no
good results ; but. it did find, long after, or in a score of indi-
rect ways, influence for good.
Going one day to the English house. I met a very large canoe
paddled by twenty men, belonging to a prominent Nkami chief.
Himself was in the canoe. He had gone to the house to get
trade-goods on credit, or " trust," as the system was called then.
But. he had been ordered away from the landing-place, because
there was lying in the bow of the canoe, one of his slaves,
broken out with small-pox. There he had been sick for several
days, handling and being handled, and. yet his master had not
isolated him ! He was properly ordered from the trading-place,
where there is always a concourse of people. I do not know
what his master did with him. I heard that he left him in the
care of one of the Galwa villages. I wonder that the disease
did not spread. It had been very destructive in Africa at times.
Very little was done, in the Interior, at that time, for small-pox
178 MY OGOWE
patients, besides warm and cold baths. The coast tribes had
learned to isolate them.
On Saturday, November n, came a little souvenir of the
Belambla robbery. Mr. Lubcke, in charge of the German trad-
ing-house, sent me a chromo, " The Strawberry Girl," which
had been intended as one of the modest adornments of my
African house, and which he had found in the possession of one
of his native traders. Its history was : Just before leaving
America, from my furlough in 1874, I had subscril)ed for For-
ney's weekly Philadelphia Press. At the office, I was given
choice of two chromos. as premiums, a " Madonna." or a
" Strawberry Girl." I admire in history, the Jewess Mary, the
wife of Joseph, who was "blessed above all women," as a
woman ; but, I did not wish anything to do with Roman Cath-
olic Madonnas. So, as I had seen neither picture, I chose the
" Strawberry Girl." It was handed to me sealed. I did not
open it at that time, but put it in my trunk for Africa. In the
Ogowe, I did not open it, for I had no place in my hut on which
to hang it. Still unopened, it was among the goods stolen at
Belambla. The Akele thief had sold it to this Mpongwe trader
of the German house, whose agent, accidentally seeing it. had
inquired about it, seized it. and restored it to me at Atangina.
That trader was not necessarily charged as being a thief. He
may have come into possession honestly. But. Mr. Lubcke. in
kind consideration for a fellow white man. had not allowed his
employee to retain stolen property, having first kindly framed
it, as a recompense for the offense of his trader. T hung it up
in my room in the Atangina hut. There, the little woman's
brown cheeks, red lips, and golden hair, were much admired by
my many native visitors. To my great regret, it was assumed to
be a picture of my wife! I suppose that T was partly to be
blamed: for. when they had asked me what the picture was. I
had only replied. " oniwanto." which, in Mpongwe. means both
woman and wife. Tn none of the other dialects of which \ knew
(except in Benga) was there a distinct word for "wife." For
7cifr. they, like the rustics of America or England, say woman.
After that. I took pains to correct their error.
Previous to entering the Ogowe. T had spoken only Benga.
and my correspondents knew that any native word 1 used was
of that tribe. But. after having been two years in the river.
and learning also both Mpongwe and Dikele. I had to state of
which tribe I was speaking.
Fights in that country came from small things. While T was
WITH RE-XKOMBE 179
staying in Atangina, Chief Isagi, of Xkami, came to visit Re-
Xkombe, partly for friendship and partly to collect a debt. The
debt was paid by the latter giving a little slave boy, who had
been the quickest to learn the alphabet of any of the many chil-
dren who had gathered around me in the evenings. A goat
also was given, for friendship. But, unfortunately, that goat
belonged to a man of another village ; and, Re-Nkombe, to make
a display of hospitality, had taken it without asking his permis-
sion. In the evening, there was a violent quarrel when the
owner of the goat came to Atangina, in search of it. He was
very angry, and struck two of Re-Xkombe's people on their head
with a stick.
The quarrel over the goat was continued next morning, Sun-
day, the 1 2th. The animal was sent for and brought back.
But, Re-Xkombe made a long altercation about it, and would
not cease, at his end of the village, even while I was holding
service at the other end, nor even though Xgeza and his fash-
ionably-dressed attendants had honored (?) me by coming to
church. It was a very rainy day ; and I felt scandalized by Re-
X'kombe. In the afternoon, I was reading in the August num-
ber of the Foreign Missionary, which had come in my last mail.
In it was an article by Rev. C. De Heer. of Corisco Island, tell-
ing of the death of a good Benga Christian woman. Belika ; she,
and another B^nga woman, Bataka, had been real friends to me
and Mrs. Xassau, while I was living at Benita. In the evening.
Re-X'kombe surprised me by taking a place with the class of boys
who were learning the alphabet. He was conscious that, as
my host, he had been discourteous during the day, in neglecting
my wishes as to Sunday disorder, and in allowing his people to
be disrespectful. (So different from Kasa!) He apologized,
asking me to name anything, and he would give it, if I would for-
give him. I asked only that he and his people should listen to
the words of my Message.
On the 13th, one of my young men, Isagi's boy (the one whom
I had been so pleased with just two months previously) whom
T had relinked for some offense, sent word through another,
demanding his pay, as an intimation that he would leave my
service. I took no notice of the demand, waiting for him to
come himself in person. And. he left, without taking his pay.
This was a typical illustration of the " touchiness " of Ogowe
tribal character, as -I observed it in my dealings with them as
employees, during the following dozen years of my life in that
river.
180 MY OGOWE
In the evening, his father passed down-river, but did not stop
to ask for his son's wages. He was a proud, haughty
man. As all payments of wages were made in goods, not
in cash. I tried to gratify my people by getting for them
whatever articles they desired, even when, in my judgment,
their wishes were unwise or wasteful. But, I did not sym-
pathize with their buying shoes. I thought them unneces-
sary in that warm country. They had never known of any
foot-coverings until they saw white people using them. My
refusal, at first, to obtain shoes for them, I found afterwards,
was regarded as an attempt to " keep them down," i. e.. to
prevent their becoming " civilized." So. I learned to yield to
them, and ceased to make an effort to have them spend their
wages in useful things. I bought the shoes for them. And,
they were pleased to be the cynosures of eyes and ears, as they
clattered, in ungainly fashion, into the room where I held church
services. They naturally had a graceful step and carriage ; but,
the coarsely made, shapeless, trade-shoes made their walk a hob-
ble. Pembe-mpolo (Large-Bread), in asking me to get him a
pair of shoes, recognized also the desirability of socks, but
claimed that the price of the socks was to be included in the cost
of the shoes, arguing that socks were an indispensable part of
footwear, and therefore part and parcel with the shoe!
JOURNEY TO NKAMI, TO BUY A BOAT,
I had. for travel and transportation on the river, only canoes
and a kongongo, both propelled only by paddles. I desired a
boat, in which I could teach the natives the use of oars. The
motion by oar was also smoother and less jerky than by paddle.
So. I started, on November 15, down-river to my Nkami friend's
village. The Nkami and Orungu were skillful in making ko-
ngongo and boats (both of them dugouts from a single tree).
Galwas made only canoes. I spent the night at the village
Nandipo (" Fernando Po ") of my Galwa friend Azaze. below
Oranga. He was a very superstitious man, having a fetish-
house with snake and other skins suspended from painted carved
posts (suggestive of Alaskan totems). At the farther end of
the room was a railed-off dark recess, a sacred place, which I
was not permitted to enter.
I had frequently to rebuke even the most hospitable of my
native " friends," for their asking me a return gift, after hav-
ing made me one. I tried to teach them that their kindness
would not be forgotten on my next trip, and that, irrespective
WITH RE-NKOMBE 181
of their gift, I would not have gone away without giving some
recognition of my obligation in having made use of their houses.
But, that their own asking for a parting gift, almost immediately
after having given me something, compelled me either to flatly
hand back their gift, or to regard it as a. sale and not a gift; and
therefore not a sign of " friendship." Azaze was an obliging-
man; but, he was very covetous.
Next day, I passed on to Igenja, at Ombya-'gwana's ; and to
Ngumbe; and on to Yambe, where I expected to buy a boat.
The people's demonstrativeness of joy at my arrival did not
please me. It was so patently obvious that they wanted me to
buy their various foods and goods. They would scarcely listen,
at my usual evening prayers, to my offer of the Gospel. As I
opened my Bible, at random, before going to sleep that night, it
was a striking coincidence that my eye fell on John 16, I.
" These things have I spoken unto you, that you should not be
offended."
The next day, Friday, the 17th, a boat was offered me for
purchase. I knew that, according to oriental procedure, the
price first asked is double of what the seller intends finally to
accept. I offered $30. The demand was made successively for
$60, $50 and $40. I would have done well to have taken it at
$40; for, it was a neatly made boat. Both the owner and I
were obstinate ; and, I left, regretting that I had refused. But,
one of my new rules of conduct with the natives, since I had es-
caped from Kasa's hands, was, not to yield after having made a
refusal. Stopped in a ulako (camp) and cooked some manatee
meat I had bought. It was delicious. On to Nombi, Onanga's
village, to complete the purchase of the boat, for which I had
engaged on a previous journey. I had to cut short the usual
public evening prayers; for, the mosquitoes were so numerous
and so insistent. A boil, on one of my shoulder-blades, which
was beginning when I started from Atangina, was becoming very
painful. I observed, in case of myself and in other white men,
missionaries and others, that, the numerous boils, so common
on foreigners, were apparently outlets of evil, which otherwise
made dangerous fever. Those of us who suffered most from
boils were less likely to have either of the fatal African fevers.
The next morning, I was awakened by the loud humming of
wild bees in a large tree, laden with deliciously-scented blossoms,
near where I had slept. I hired Onanga's son Onanga; and,
with both the kongongo and the new boat, started on return
journey up-river, much outraged at my " friend's " attempting
182 MY OGOWE
to steal, just as we were pushing off. At the village ftango,
I was offered for purchase, a manis (pangolin). I was sur-
prised at the animal's strength in wrapping its tail over its head
and body, making a ball through whose scales no dog could bite,
and that well-resisted a spear. There I met an instance of orunda
or taboo. It was, that, the paddles of a visiting crew should
not be carried up into the village street, but, should be left at
the boat-landing. While it was my principle not to compel the
natives to lay aside any of the superstitions ( for, they were part
of the rites of their religion) desiring rather that they should lay
them aside under christian convictions, I always declined to sub-
mit to them myself. If that village would not allow me to carry
my belongings to the safe house where I should sleep over night,
and where I would deliver my Gospel message, and where they
would have the honor of entertaining the white man, and where,
inevitably, he would spend some of his goods, then, I would re-
turn to my boat, and go elsewhere. '1 he orunda was tempo-
rarily removed in my favor.
I remained over the Sunday, November 19. Handing to one
of my young men my sharpened pocket-knife, and telling him
in what direction and how deeply to cut, his unskilled hand suc-
cessfully opened the abscess on my shoulder-blade. It was a
great relief. Young Onanga imitated his father's evil trait, by
deserting, and stealing a Nango canoe, in which to go back to his
village.
Thus, when starting again on Monday, my crews were small.
I placed ReTeno in charge of the kongongo, and I, with my
shoulder sore from the opened abscess, at the rudder of the boat,
with a crew of only four. So, progress was slow. At the
olako where we stopped to eat on the edge of the forest, one of
the crew found a dead fish. They enjoyed it. But, its odor
spoiled my breakfast. Another employee. Mbue-pe-nyeni, had
an orunda, which required that, on a journey, he should eat alone
and out of sight of others. The crew had but one pot, and no
drinking can or cup or other empty vessel, into which his one-
fourth share could be put, in order that he should go off into
the forest alone. He therefore had to wait until the other three
had eaten their united shares, and then he could take the pot
away by himself. As the shares had not been actually formally
divided, I think that the other three were not careful to leave him
a full quarter. Though my opened abscess was painful, I held
the rudder all day, in order that the crew of four should be
paired at the oars, until a breeze came. Then we made a sail of
WITH RE-NKOMBE 183
native matting, and progressed finely; but, not as rapidly as did
the kongongo under Re-Teno's hands. For the night, we stopped
at a deserted trading-house on the bank, by a path that led back
into the forest to King Njagu's town, Ndogo. Walked at once
to the town, and found a fight in progress ; one young man dead,
and another dangerously wounded. There came up a heavy
rainstorm, and my return to the river-side was through a very
dark forest path, made darker by the storm. I was thoroughly
wet.
The next day, November 21, was a long hard pull up-stream.
I went far up a creek, on the other side of the river from
Ngumbe, to look for the canoe I had bought at Aguma, in which
to send home the Nkami employees in April, 1875. I found it
at a certain village, rotting to pieces. I remained there all night
with multitudes of mosquitoes. The people would not come to
my services; they were attending an ombivire (spirit) dance.
The following morning, Ayenwe aroused us all early, in a desire
to escape those frightful mosquitoes. I succeeded in hiring
another young man, Re-Yayo. All day. we were on the lookout
for the expected Pioneer, hoping to be overtaken by it and being
given a tow. After another long, hard pull, I arrived, with a
bad headache, at Igenja, in Ombya-ogwana's village. The next
day, Thursday, I hired two new young Galwas, Mamba and
Abumba. With variations in length of time and employment
with me, those two young men will appear frequently in the
future history of the Ogowe Mission and its churches. They
both became active Christians. Abumba, consistent to the end
of his life, as a teacher, evangelist, and elder. And, Mamba
most efficient as general assistant, and leader in my boating and
building, and for many years faithful as an elder. No other
Galwa, in his service with me and my successors, equaled him
in truth, honesty, and devotion to me.
My attention was attracted to a large flower along the river
banks, which looked like a hibiscus. It opened in the morning,
a pure white ; as the sun's warm rays kissed it during the day,
it began to blush ; and, by sunset, it was a bright red. Stopped
at several villages, to buy melanga (the rattan building-material
made from a vine, the Calamus palm).
Met a canoe of fighting men from Nandipo ; and, on reaching
that village, my friend Azaze gave me some fresh kondo fish.
As I had bought manatee at another village, my crew was well
supplied ; for, I gave them the kondo. Passed the Orungu
villages, though there were signs of rain. The current there is
1 84 MY OGOWE
swift; but, a strong wind was favorable; we put up sail, and
reached for the night the deserted Aromba village. While I did
not supply my people with tobacco, I did not forbid its use, ex-
cept during work hours, and in my presence in the boat. But.
I did not allow the use of haschisch ( Indian hemp). I suspected
the new young man, Re-Yayo, of using it. The following day,
Friday, journeyed, with rains threatening from a heavily overcast
sky. At the village of another of the crew, Saviyeti, succeeded
in hiring another hand. Kliva-ntyani (Lake of Shame). From
there, the main stream's current was always too strong. I always
availed myself of the Ozugavizya cut-off that led into the smaller
or Ajumba branch. And, passed the night at Ntyuwa-guma
village.
Was glad to reach my journey's end at Atangina, on Saturday
afternoon, the 25th; for, the incision in the abscess, made just
seven days before, had become ulcerated by friction of my cloth-
ing, heat, and no means of properly cleansing it in the huts and
on the river. Five large canoes, loaded with war-painted men,
came for a " palaver " with Re-Xkombe, about the death of one
of the men who had been engaged in the fight over the possession
of the goat, on November 11.
The Sunday was a physical rest ; but, canoes were coming and
going; and some time elapsed before T could obtain a quiet at-
tention to my Sunday services.
Ground had been cleared for the building of my temporary
hut at the foot of Kangwe Hill. Rut, there was a lull, while
I had to await the collection of building material, the mbingo
(saplings) for the outline of the frame, and the iti (bamboo)
slats for the walls, and the onipavo (thatch) for the roofing.
Atangina was yet noisy on Monday, with the effort at settlement
of Saturday's " palaver." Late in the afternoon it was finally
ended by a payment of goods. And, then there was a noisy
fusillade of guns in testimony of the close of the quarrel, and
the restoration of amicable relations.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
While waiting for those materiels, T thought it well to visit
Belambla. I was to go on Tuesday . November 2&. Suddenly,
was developed a "palaver" against myself. Not to myself as
the guilty party; but, according to native custom, I was to be
held responsible for the acts of my employees, as my " children."
Re-Yayo was charged, by one of the Atangina men, as guilty of
adulterv with his wife. There would be a fine; and, I was ex-
WITH RE-NKOMBE 185
pected to pay it. The charge might or might not be true; it
might be a case of blackmail. The woman may deliberately
have been used by her husband as a decoy. Such cases were
very common. Employees of white men were easy prey; for,
their wages were sure. I declined to be held responsible for
Re-Yayo ; and gave him no sympathy or protection. Re-Nkombe
acted very promptly and justly. He declared that I should not
be named as a party by the prosecutor; and he rapidly took
charge of the case as judge, in an hour settling what in slow
native quarrel would have occupied a whole day. ReYayo was
proved guilty; was fined $1 ; and, in consideration of my at once
paying (out of his wages) he was released, and proceeded with
me on my journey. I felt sure, from the smallness of the fine,
that Re-Nkombe must have believed that the woman and her
husband were as guilty as Re-Yayo. Of my vessels, I called the
canoe Fides; the kongongo, Spes; and the boat, Caritas. At
Aguma, on the way, I met the white quartermaster of Count
De Brazza's exploring expedition, who had come from the In-
terior, for supplies for the Count. How I longed for the finan-
cial backing that could have sent me into that Interior!
During the afternoon, I passed through swarms of literally
millions of yellow butterflies, prominent at that season of the
year. They were flying across the river, from its left or (at
that part) eastern bank to the western. Passed the night on
Xenge-sika Island.
The next day, I stopped at villages of former Bakele friends;
but, they all happened to be away. Caritas was easily pro-
pelled with eight paddles, as I had not yet had time to teach all
the crew the use of oars. At Belambla, Kongolo and his two
aides gave me a welcome. They reported that they had had no
trouble. Kongolo seemed to be doing well. My evening ex-
amination of his accounts showed them to be tolerably correct.
And, there was a glad hope that one of his young men, Awora,
was serious on the subject of personal religion.
The next day, the Bakele thronged to morning prayers ; but,
so noisy, that I knew it was only for a contest as to who should
get the first chance to sell to me their provisions. My leaving
them was a great loss to their daily market. King- Onderie
came to object to my abandoning Belambla; and, "King," as
he was, joined with the other beggars, in asking for gifts. I
had no longer any diplomacy or patience in his case. I re-
minded him that I had warned him and Kasa, and had made the
return of my stolen goods, and punishment of the thieves, the
1 86 MY OGOWE
condition of my remaining; and, that, as king, he had done
nothing; that he should now reap as he had sowed, having played
on my patience as a weakness, ftwanaja was, as always, re-
spectful and lady-like. For the first hand, Kongolo gave my
sore shoulder-blade, which was in bad case, careful attention.
He was a civilized young man, and had seen such treatment at
Benita. Re-Teno, the only civilized member of my crew, and
who had seen such work at Baraka, had not been at all kind or
considerate of my sore.
Some tools I had left at Belambla were no longer needed
there; those, and building materiels I had collected. I removed
for Kangwe.
I left quietly, the next day, Friday, December I. The shal-
lowness of Akele " friendship " appeared in, that, when I did not
need to buy, they had no occasion to say " good-by," as I left.
Only Nwanaja was on hand. I gave Ondefie the form of re-
spect, to stop at his village as I passed. He was quite humbled ;
was sorry I was leaving; and gave me a piece of goat-meat.
Overtaken by rain, I stopped at an Akele village near the mouth
of the Ngunye, and ate my lunch there. In one of their" huts,
I saw on the wall, one of my stolen alphabet cards. I did not
demand it, but asked for it. They would not give it up. They
said they had bought it, paying a gun for it! That was lying.
The chart was worth perhaps 5 cents ; a gun cost $3. And, at
that time in our Mission, we had not begun the present good
practice of requiring pupils of our schools to pay for books, etc.
The preposterous falsehood was only a high bid, they thinking I
would pay for my white-man's " book," which was knowledge,
which was therefore power.
At Atangina again, I believed that Kangwe would be a good
location for obtaining food. Canoes from down-river did not
come up by the large main stream, but by the lesser Ajumba
branch ; for, the current of the latter was slight ; and, it was
slightest on my Kangwe side. From Atangina, I could see
Fanwe canoes passing by the Hill, on their way to Aguma, with
plantains to sell. I sent a messenger to pursue them, and to
ask them to stop and sell to me. Of course, they began, in the
oriental manner, by asking a large price, $1 for four bunches.
While Galwas would have been pleased to ask me that price,
they would not be pleased that Fanwe should obtain the same.
The Galwas would have liked to be middlemen, buying from
Fanwe, and then selling at an advance. So, in their own inter-
est, they called a counsel with the Fanwe and myself. And, it
WITH RE-NKOMBE 187
was agreed that I should be given six plantain bunches
for $1.
The work at my hut proceeded well. But, I found that Galwa
workmen, though better and more skillful than Bakele, were
more " touchy " and quarrelsome, and more disposed to make
complaints and demands. I gave them abundance of food, of
the usual vegetable staffs of life, plantains and cassava. But,
though willing, I was not able always to obtain meat. In their
own villages, it was a frequent occurrence for them to be with-
out meat or fish. But, living with a white man, they seemed
to think that they should have flesh daily. They had an ap-
parent precedent, in the fact that the Liberian coast tribe, Kru-
men, employed at the coast trading-houses, were given a daily
ration of imported salt meat. But, the labor of those Kru-men,
in boats through surf, and in handling heavy boxes and barrels
of cargo, was vastly heavier than my slight house-building or
river-paddling.
My employees, on Saturday evening, December 9, put forward
little Mbue-pe-nyeni as spokesman, to say that they wanted credit
on their " books " for the days on which they had had no meat !
It was not a pleasant evening, especially as I was not feeling
well with a boil on my upper lip.
And. next day. Sunday, even Re-Xkombe was direspectfui
in his refusal to attend the services, saying that he had not
eaten. \Yhen I proceeded without his presence, suddenly, sev-
eral quarrels sprang up near the house, and continued during
my preaching. The coincidence made me suspect that there was
some connection between him and my employees and the quar-
rels. Almost always such annoyances either followed feverish
symptoms on my part (and perhaps were caused partly by some
impatience or lack of tact in me) or, if I was apparently well,
such annoyances as a cause generally worked out symptoms of
fever in me. I think now, that one point in my method of dis-
cipline was unwise, and was a cause of trouble, i. e.. fines. It
was right and wise to dock wages for loss of time ; but, fines,
for disobedience, accidental breakages, etc.. though not unjust,
were, I now think, in the then stage of civilization of the work-
men, unwise.
On December 18. the palaver about Re-Yayo was reopened
by the old man. with one of whose women he had committed
adultery. She was now the complainant, charging that Re-
Yayo had threatened to make a fetish-charm to kill her, in re-
venue for her having accused him to her husband. There was
1 88 MY OGOWE
a fight over Re-Yayo. I had no pity for either him or the
woman or her man. There was no injured love in the case;
only sordid lust. Re-Nkombe settled the case for me, with the
private understanding that Re-Yayo was to be allowed to run
away. I went with him to Aguma to get a sail I had made for
the boat, and returned with him to Atangina, as I had found
nowhere else to leave him. Re-Nkombe acted in the best recog-
nition of oriental " guest-right," saying that as his house and
town was " mine," my employee, though a criminal, was safe
while I was there with him. But, the next morning, at earliest
dawn, I was awakened by an outcry that Re-Yayo was " caught."
I lay awake, but did not rise until full daylight; and made no
sign ; though, in my anxiety to pursue only the wisest course
in a case that would be established as a precedent, I had no appe-
tite for my breakfast. I did not care a thing for Re-Yayo per-
sonally; for, he had been a troublesome and unsatisfactory
workman, and he deserved punishment for his other sins. But,
he was my employee, a part of my household. / was " guest "
of Re-Nkombe, chief of the village. Universal African tribal
custom covered a guest with a sanctity of right and safety from
injury that was extended to all of that guest's retinue and be-
longings the while he remained in the limits as a sanctuary.
The seizure of Re-Yayo was therefore a conventional insult to
myself. Was I to allow it? Should I make a protest, even
though Re-Yayo was an offender? I went to Re-Nkombe's
house to confer with him, and to claim his protection. He was
away at his plantation. I believed that an immediate demon-
stration was necessary. I determined to leave the village, and
confer the favor ( ?) of my presence, and the daily outflow of
pecuniary benefits in the purchase of food, on some other village
that would better regard my guest-right. So, I commenced to
carry my boxes, etc., to the waterside, and loaded the boat for
removal. When the villagers saw that, they sent swift messen-
gers to Re-Nkombe, who soon appeared. Without my having
made any appeal to him, he at once took Re-Yayo from the
stocks in which he had been fastened. I was pleased with Re-
Nkom1>e's prompt demonstration of friendliness, returned my
goods to the hut in which I had been living; and, taking Re-
Yayo, I went to my day's work on the hillside, the villagers as-
suring me that the seizure would not be repeated, on my return.
I explained to him that I had been defending, not him. but my-
self ; and warned him. that, on future misconduct. I would dis-
miss him, and leave him open to deserved punishment. My
WITH RE-NKOMBE 189
decided stand, and Re-Nkombe's prompt action did much to
cement our friendship, and to establish my position in the eyes
of the Galwa tribe.
By December 20, the hut was almost completed, and ready
for occupancy. But, I would not remove to it until after my
return from Gaboon, whither it was time to make ready a
journey, for the semi-annual meetings (unless the Pioneer
should happen to arrive). I engaged two of Re-Nkombe's
young men. Oguma and Ambangila, to stay on my Kangwe
premises, and protect the hut, while I should be away. He ob-
jected to his men being left in charge; not that he was not will-
ing to be of assistance to me, but, he doubted whether they
would be faithful; and that, then, on my return I would blame
him, as I had blamed Kasa. I assured him that I had faith in
not only him, but them also ; and, in any case, would blame only
them. I supplied them with guns and ammunition, for defense
against assault. But, until I should actually start down-river
(for I was first to make my monthly visit to Belambla), I left
at the hut, four of my own men, among them Re-Yayo, who
was afraid to venture back to Atangina.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
The next day, however, December 22, he was charged with the
theft of a hatchet. Wearied, I paid him off, and dismissed him.
And. started late in the day, on my journey to Belambla, with
an Atangina crew. I could not reach my usual resting-place
for the night, at Saviyeli's house on the " Goree " Island. So
we stopped at a deserted village where were only two old women.
The next day, I stopped for breakfast at Manda's. I saw
there the process of making odika, from the kernels of the wild
mango. It makes a rich gravy, which I had often eaten, but
never had actually seen the process of making it; nor had before
eaten the roasted kernels.
One of the Atangina crew, Njodia, was afraid to go on with
me, because of a palaver at Ondene's. Notwithstanding my
recent demonstration of protection of Re-Yayo. Njodia was
afraid, because he was out of the limits of his tribe, and I was
not residing at Ondene's, as I had been at Re-Nkombe's. I
really believed that he would be safe in my boat ; but, I did not
insist, and allowed him to debark at Manda's. Reached Be-
lambla shortly after dark; and was pleasantly received.
Sunday, December 24, was a quiet pleasant day, with a good
attendance of Kasa's people at services. But, my Mpongwe at-
190 MY OGOWK
tendant. Re-Teno, who never had been satisfactory, now on the
eve of a return to Libreville, made but slight pretense of respect
or even honesty.
Monday, the 25th, was Christmas Day; but, not a "merry"
one. Indeed, most of my Christmases in Africa had so happened
to fall on days when I was alone from any white companionship,
that I almost ceased to notice the anniversary. Thus, I lost
much of the traditional interest in the day. I was busy paying
employees their month's wages, and settling accounts with Ko-
ngolo. In this, I was delayed by many visitors from Kasa's.
So that, my start down-river was a late one. And, it was in-
terrupted by diplomatic stoppages at Ondene's and two other
villages ; and at Manda's, to pick up Njodia ; and at Sakwele's,
for the first hearty meal of the day, which, following the usage
of the traders, in this record, I speak of, as "breakfast."
(Their program was: In the early morning, just after beginning
work, an informal cup of tea and biscuit ; 1 1 o'clock, " break-
fast "; informal 4 p. m. tea and toast; and 8 p. m. hearty " din-
ner." This suited a cessation of work in the hot mid-day.
And, for the same reason, it suited me, on my river journeys.)
Sending my boat and crew on to Atangina, I had my Christmas
supper ("dinner") at night, at Aguma, with the other white
men of the river, from the two trading-houses, Messrs. Travis,
Woodward, Lubcke, Detmaringer, Schiff, and the Senegal-
Frenchman Mane. After which, Mr. Travis kindly sent me to
Atangina in his boat.
The next day, the 26th. was a busy day with me at Atangina.
at Aguma. and at Kangwe, arranging foods for those I would
leave in charge of the Hill, and for my own expenses down-
river.
JOURNEY TO GABOON.
Finally, on Wednesday. 27th, I started, going, as usual, down
the Ajumba branch of the Ogowe, which emerges by one of
many cross-streams, in the main branch, through the Ozugavizya
(reek. Then, at Mbangwe, 1 was told that the Pioneer had just
gone up the main stream. I had just missed it! Probably, it
had for me goods and supplies, and, most precious of all. a
mail! Nevertheless. I went on my way, stopping for the night
with my friend Azaze at Xandipo, below Oranga.
The next day. on to Tsagi's town, Xgumbe ; and, notwith-
standing the multitude of mosquitoes, remained there for the
WITH RE-NKOMBE 191
night. Isagi surprised me, by restoring to me a chicken I had
lost there on my previous journey.
The following clay, on to Nango. And, the next day, Satur-
urday, December 30, on to Angala, to remain over Sunday. It
was quite possible that the Pioneer could overtake us on her
return down river. If so, the captain would give us all passage
on board. All of Sunday my crew were hoping that the vessel
would not come until Monday. For, they knew from my strong
Sabbath principles, that I never traveled on that day in my own
boat (whose movements I could control) and feared I would
refuse to start on the steamer on the Sunday.
Monday, January 1, 1877. New Year's Day! But, I made
no recognition of it. Nor, had the Pioneer come. Rowing
was slow ; for, from Angala, the ocean tide is met. Emerged at
the sea by 4.30 p. m., and saw Mr. Schultze's crowded schooner,
lying at the village of Abun-awiri (Abundance of witches).
No more dread of Orungu there ! At once, I passed out into
Nazareth Bay with my sail, and ran all night under the moon-
light with a light favorable land-wind, on the 70 miles' stretch
of sea to Libreville.
The next day, January 2, we kept on our way, with varying
winds, and some showers of rain. The dugout boat Caritas ran
beautifully under sail.
At sunset, we had failed to round the points at the mouth of
the Gaboon River, and anchored about 8 p. m., for the night in a
quiet cove. I slept that night in my wet clothes.
And, on the morning of the 3d, under moonlight, and with
a favorable tide, with paddles, we rounded the last point, close
in shore. Then, with sail, under a fine wind, crossed the ten
miles of the estuary. The sun rose while we were crossing. Bv
7.30 A. M., I was at Baraka. The mail steamer, Ethiopia with
my friend. Captain Davis, was at anchor. A large mail was
awaiting me. This was the first time I had made the run be-
tween the Ogowe mouth and the Gaboon in an open boat.
For two weeks, we held our mission and presbytery meetings.
My sister came from Benita and Mrs. De Heer from Corisco,
by the Hudson. We made visits of courtesy on the French
admiral's frigate in the harbor, and he returned them; and he
kindly allowed his surgeon to come ashore, to extract my aching
tooth. I wrote my annual report, and many letters to the United
States, and asked the Board for re-inforcements. My friends,
Mr. and Mrs. Reading were soon to take a furlough to America.
192 MY OGOWE
The Pioneer had come from the Ogowe, and was to return
again.
JOURNEY BACK TO OGOWE BY " PIONEER."
Thursday, January 18: My sister and Mrs. De Heer had
left, during the morning, on the Hudson, for their respective
stations at Benita and Corisco. And, I was busy loading on the
Pioneer my boxes of goods and supplies, and eighty-five boards
for a prospective house on Kangwe hillside. With an evening
good-by to Rev. Dr. and Mrs. Bushnell, and Mr. and Mrs.
Reading, under a little rain I went aboard the vessel, in my
Caritas, with my five crew, and Mbora, a new assistant instead of
the recreant Re-Teno.
My Ogowe huts had been almost entirely devoid of animal pets,
the while I had been leading so wandering a life during the pre-
ceding two years. Now, that the thought of a home at Kangwe
brought into my life a more settled feeling, I took with me a cat
safely imprisoned in a bag. The Captain, De Grouchy, came
on board at night ; and some bedding was spread for me on the
eating-room table. There were no " state-rooms " or even berths
outside of the captain's and engineer's. All partitions in the
hold had been removed to give clear space for cargo. There
were no more signs of Mrs. Livingstone's cabin. The crew, and
all native passengers slept on the open deck, taking their chances
of sun and rain. As the Pioneer rarely traveled by night, we lay
at anchor, waiting for the day. My ever-sensitive stomach was
nauseated by even the mild heavings of Gaboon estuary. By
sunrise of next day, we were under way. My boat was in tow ;
to keep it in line with the vessel. I had to put two of my crew
into it, at its rudder. On rounding Pongara Point to push out
to sea. my poor cat, frightened at its surroundings, and seeing its
proximity to shore, leaped into the water, in an attempt to
reach land, and was lost. At night we anchored off the Naz-
areth mouth of the Ogowe.
And, by daylight, were again in motion, in the river. Several
canoes were in sight. One of them, near Abun-awiri, was a
large one. and its crew seemed afraid of us. How different from
the state of affairs six months previously, and before the French
Government had been punishing the Orungu pirates! Angala
was reached easily in the afternoon. The French gunboat
Marabout was lying there: and Captain De Grouchy had to show
his papers. Good ! France had awakened to her rights and
duties toward both natives and foreigners! T also went to the
MPOXGWF. WOMAN AXD CTTTT.D
t-aeing page 193
WITH RE-NKOMBE 193
Marabout, as its captain wished to see me about the affair of the
Orungu Ndambenje (Aziza-njele) with me, in the preceding
August. I had entered no complaint, because, in the final pil-
lage of my goods, I had been a consenting party. But, the gov-
ernment regarded (truthfully) that consent had been a forced
one in the face of threatened violence, and wished to capture
him, on a charge of highway robbery. They doubtless felt that
that assault would not have been made, had the power of France
been more in evidence.
Whenever I traveled on the Ogowe, I carried with me seeds,
or roots, or cuttings of edible tropical plants not indigenous to
Africa, which I obtained from the Libreville Botanical Garden,
into which they had been introduced from the West Indies. I
gave a bread-fruit tree to King Esongi. So I did, during the
years, at other villages. Most of the bread-fruit, avocado pears,
guavas, and other fruits now abundant in the Ogowe, thus came
from my hand. Steamer went on ; stopping for the night at
lS T ombi, opposite to JSJango.
The next day, the 21st, was Sunday. There was no oppor-
tunity for religious services. I had a quiet day in reading. It
was pleasant to watch one of the Mpongwe passengers, a mother,
Nyilo's wife: she was so patient, watchful, and affectionate to
their little child. Passed Mr. Schultze's little steam-launch tow-
ing his laden schooner. Passed Isagi's, without even saluting
him. And, just as we were about to anchor near Avanga, the
steamer was, for a short time, aground. From the low papyrus
banks came clouds of mosquitoes.
The next day, as we were passing Igenja, the former pilot of
the Pioneer, Ombya-ogwana, shouted for the captain to stop and
take him into service. But, the captain had a pilot from Angala.
My Mamba was disappointed that the vessel passed his village
without an opportunity for him to see his people. Near Azaze's,
a canoe overtook us, containing the young man whom I had en-
gaged as carpenter, on my journey down-river. Keeping on up
the main stream, we passed the mouth of Ozugavizya Creek; and
anchored almost in sight of the German trading-house, at Le-
mbarene.
And, the next morning the 23d, I was ashore by my own boat :
and found everything safe and in order at the Hill. Called at
Atangina. to see Re-Nkombe, and returned to my hut; and. at
once went to the hilltop, to decide on the exact site of my
permanent dwelling. Then, went, for the night, to Aguma, to
be ready to bring my goods from the Pioneer. The following
i 9 4 MY OGOWE
day, the 24th, there was a tornado, the most violent I had seen.
My boat was caught in it on one of its trips to and from the Hill
and the steamer. But, it rode the waves well ; Ogowe canoes were
swamped. The night was the first one in which I had slept at
Kangwe. I had the evening prayers, seeking a blessing on this
new home I was making.
CHAPTER XVII
AT THE KANGWE HUT, JANUARY, 1877
AGAIN to Aguma, on Thursday, January 25, for my lum-
ber; and sent the kongongo Spes, with Ayenwe and a
crew of five, down-river to buy food. Another tornado,
which I barely escaped in returning to the Hill. Found that
Aveya and his little brother Onganga, whom I had left at the
hut, had arranged my room and bedding very neatly.
In the evening, there returned Awangini, and a new little boy.
That made eight people in my employ on the place, besides the
crew who were away buying food.
I kept my household at the work of clearing the premises, in
almost a military precision of routine. This was necessary for
its success ; for, I realized that the following five months held for
me a heavy task, and I was conscious that I had not the vigor of
either mind or body, with which I had attempted the Belambla
effort of two years before.
I wrote letters very full to my children, to churches and Sun-
day-schools and other friends; many of these appearing in The
Presbyterian.
Monday, January 29 : My work and the workers were adjust-
ing themselves comfortably. Ayenwe and Aveya were good
foremen for the boat's crew and building squad; and Mbora was
a good cook ; he even wished me to allow him to attempt to make
bread. Chief Re-Nkombe generally kept his promises, and did
not attempt to be as exacting as Kasa at Belambla. He had a
sister, Azizya. who during my entire stay at Kangwe, was true
and helpful to me. Finally having a resting-place, I sent to
Aguma for my dog " Brownie," whom I had left there for several
months during the Belambla difficulties. During the day, out of
work hours, and at night, some of the employees voluntarily came
to learn to read or to be taught other lessons.
And, yet, as often happened, the day following an unusually
pleasant one, was marked by some unpleasantness. In the even-
ing of January 30, I called my household together for an in-
formal chat, and asked them to explain why it was that just after
I had showed them some special favor, they often made me
195
196 MY OGOWE
trouble. I think that they were like children, with the thought-
less waywardness of children, though some of them in age were
young men. Perhaps, also, the cause may often have been in my-
self, an incipient fever making me unconsciously exacting.
For, on the third day, I would be lying down with a chill. Then,
it was all plain; the natural succession of a day of unusually
bright spirits (the real physiological beginning of fever) ; next,
a day of depression (the advance) ; and then a day of actual
fever (the attack). But, I rarely went to bed for it. I lounged
while the chill was on, fasted, swallowed quinine, drank hot
lime-ade ; and, when the chill was off, wandered about the prem-
ises, wrapped in a blanket, to see whether the workmen were
making mistakes. I had two young men who could handle
tools ; but, I had to watch their work and see that they made the
doors and windows straight for that first little Kangwe hut.
Out in the forest, there were often strange sounds, of the
origin of which I could not always get an acceptable explana-
tion from the natives. Perhaps, some were voices of birds, or
insects ; or, the wind in tree branches ; or, echoes of cry of beasts,
or call of human being. Perhaps, in my highly-wrought mental
and depressed physical state at that time, I did really hear sounds
that were not audible to others, or to myself in a normal state.
But, it is true that, in my lonely walks in the forest, I did hear a
low musical note that sounded like a distant bell. There were
no bells (at that time), in the Ogowe. On January 31,1 wrote
" The Bells that Ring for me."
There ring, to me, sometimes, sweet bells,
So soft and low :
But never a word their echo tells.
If weal or woe,
I can not know.
I hear them in these forest aisles,
So soft and low.
Alike in Grief or when TTope smiles,
Their light waves go
In music's flow.
Are they some solemn funeral tolls,
Tn lands away,
Wafted across where ocean rolls?
Or, calls to pray
On Sabbath day?
AT THE KANGWE HUT 197
Or, are they echoed marriage bells,
All glad and gay,
Whose whispered benison thus swells
O'er lives to-day
Made one for aye?
Or, are they notes of bells of Care
In toiling towns,
Where hardy hands, in Life's war, dare
Snatch golden crowns
From Fortune's frowns?
I can not tell, I only know
That sweet low tone,
Whose pulses sudden come and go,
When I'm alone,
Is ever one.
Those tones change not. By night or day,
They, soft and low,
Unbidden come, nor, longed-for, stay ;
But, ringing slow,
Vibrating go.
Ring on, O bells, and ring for me !
I do not know
Wliether my path of life shall be
Of weal or woe.
Ring soft and low !
Time is not valued by the native African; and there was little
sense of obligation to remain at a job. All sorts of small things
were allowed to interfere. Saviyele's wife had recently be-
come a mother ; he had to go to attend some superstitious rites
to be performed subsequent to childbirth. A distant relative of
Aveya died at Adalinananga, and he must needs spend a day at
the mourning. Nevertheless, work was progressing.
As a mark to my claim on the extensive premises, I decided to
build one of the huts needed for the men, on the northern side
of the Hill, at its foot, and exactly opposite to Atangina. An
incidental advantage was, that my people there could see food-
. canoes coming up the river, and hailing them could advise them
to stop at my place on the southern side. In clearing the forest,
I was frequently coming on to new animals, insects, or reptiles.
On Thursday, February r. I saw for the first time, what I sup-
198 MY OGOWE
posed was an electrical fish. On my way over the Hill, in the
morning of February 2, to the work on the north side hut (which
people called " Igolino") I inspected and decided on the precise
spot where should be built the proposed permanent house, not on
the very hilltop, but nearer it than the site I had selected when
first accompanied by Mr. Reading in the previous August. As
the clearing progressed on that hillside, splendidly extensive
views were constantly being opened up. That day, at " Igolino,"
there came by there canoe loads of plantains, of Fan we led by
Ajumba people from Lake Azingo. Hailing them, directed
them to go on to my hut, whither I walked rapidly over the Hill.
One of the Ajumba was one of Anege's young men, Ogula, who,
in November of 1874, at Azingo, had killed a hippopotamus;
and I had eaten of its meat.
In a country where Sunday was unknown, I was more strict
in my observance of Sabbath than I would have been in the
United States. During Saturday night, the 3d, there had ar-
rived from down-river two relatives of one of my workmen,
Tivino, with chickens and plantains for sale, I wanted them.
But my people knew that I would neither buy nor bargain about
them on Sunday. As they lay in the canoe at my landing vis-
ible to all passers-by, and especially to persons coming to serv-
ices, the wiser ones of my people advised the owners that I
would be offended if strangers should report that they had seen
food for sale at the missionary's door on Sunday! So the plan-
tains and chickens were hidden in the forest until Monday.
Among the few 7 who came to the services were my good friend
Azizya, Re-Xkombe's sister, and three other women. I gave
them dinner afterwards; not, at all, as a reward for coming; but,
to emphasize, in a country that looked down on women, my tradi-
tional respect for the sex. This, and other attentions to other
native women in later years were my constant demonstrations
of gratitude, pity, and respect ; but, they were misunderstood by
some men. My earliest services at all the stations that I suc-
cessively located, were marked by Sunday-school efforts, teach-
ing to read, and illustrating Scripture with pictures. At Libre-
ville Mrs. Reading and Miss Dewsnap had given me a large
picture of the Destruction of Pharaoh's Army at the Red Sea.
As I could use Mpongwe only smatteringly, I had cook Mbora
explain it ; which he did very well.
On the Monday, I was awakened at daylight by the outcries
of Tivino's relatives, who discovered that their hidden plantains
had been stolen. During the night, I had heard his voice, as he
AT THE KANGWE HUT 199
had been aroused by a noise at the water-side. And I had
arisen, and fired my gun at the spot, with what effect, I did not
know. Perhaps the noise was that of the departing thieves. I
had caused it to be known, on my first location at the Hill, that
I would allow no night-prowling, and that I would fire without
warning at any sound. Belated visitors, or others coming in
real need were to make themselves promptly known by a loud
call, such as no secret thief would make.
The wonderful " driver ants " were in great numbers that
day. And, I found what I suppose was the rare mygale spider.
On February 6, Mbora succeeded in making a loaf of bread ;
the first that any one of my successive cooks had made, during
the two and a half years that I had been in the Ogowe.
Eliva-ntyani, in cutting down a tree (whose base made chop-
ping impossible because of the buttresses thrown out by many
kinds of trees), used the native method of climbing, of which
I knew but had not seen. With a rattan vine as a rope, tied
in a circle about the tree, and himself inside the circle, and
leaning with his back against the vine, his feet braced against
the tree-trunk, and his hands tugging at the vine, he literally
walked up the tree to a point where the diameter was less.
When his choppings had continued so far that the tree was
beginning to crack, in its readiness to fall to one side, he
deftly, rapidly slid down to the ground with his rope, on the
other side. During those days, I amused myself with the
pendant vines, renewing my youth by some fine exercise in
swinging. Some down-river Bakele. from Kumulekwe's town,
stopped to see me. They were quite * caustic in their con-
demnation of the up-river Bakele, saying that they " had no
head " in behaving in such a way as to cause me to leave them.
The young Ajumba man, Ogula, came to work with me.
Wednesday, the 7th, marked the beginning of a new step in
my building. Having completed my own temporary hut, and
necessary out-houses by the ravine, and the Igolino hut at the
foot of the northern side of the Hill, I started a number of the
employees at the cutting of logs, for the foundation-posts of the
board-floored house to be built near the hilltop. The forest was
crowded with trees, but not all of them available for that pur-
pose. Only the hardest woods could resist the attacks of the
white ants.
200 MY OGOWE
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
On Thursday, February 8, leaving four of my people to care
for the Kangwe premises, I took the other nine, to make my
monthly inspection of Belambla. Stopped on the way at
Aguma, to breakfast with Mr. Travis. Leaving near noon, the
crew pulled remarkably well; and, with no stops, we reached
Sakwele's Island by 7 p. m. He was away; but his wife
Akanda received us.
The next day, in passing Ozege-katya, we bought turtle-eggs
of an Akele who hailed us. Ate at Avyake's. He was holding
a palaver about one of his women who had been killed in a
quarrel resulting from the trader Rogomu's retaining an Akele
canoe which he found floating as lost property, and had refused
to surrender to the owner. Kasa was at his village, and smiled
as I passed. Reaching Belambla by 4 p. m., Kongolo and his
assistants were very glad to see me. I had brought for him.
from my sister Isabella of Benita, some little articles presented
by her, a belt, thread, etc. His joy was touching, at being thus
remembered, as he repeatedly ejaculated, "Thank you! Miss
Bella!" In the evening, five of the young men told me that
they wished to be Christians. That was my reward for my
work at Belambla ! My heart was full ! Lendaginya ( the
striker whom I had restored to my service) said that he had
thought of this for two years ; but, had put it off, because I was
living away from his Galwa tribe. And, that when I had dis-
missed him for his offense six months previously, he did not
wish to go away into the temptations of trade, and so decided
to delay no longer in informing me. Manja said that he had
engaged with me, at first, only " for the sake of dollars " ; but,
that, hearing the Truth often, " it had pierced his ears, and
opened his heart." The Akele Lakitharambyli, said that he
wished to turn from the darkness of his tribe. I went to bed
with a glad heart.
The next day, with my entire crew, I crossed the river, to
make friendships with the Fahwe on that side. They received
us well ; politely gave presents to me and to my entire company;
and, according to custom, we made return gifts. Heard of a
trade-palaver near Anyambe-jena's village, involving some
(loree traders; and. Ondene and Kasa had gone with them, to
settle the affair. Those traders were Senegalese, from the
(ioree district of Cape Verde. They were Mohammedans, and,
as French subjects, had a smattering of civilization, on which
AT THE KANGWE HUT 201
they prided themselves, looking with contempt on the Ogowe na-
tives. As a result of that attitude of haughty autocracy, they
often became involved in quarrels. I avoided association with
them. Our only common grounds of sympathy lay in the two
facts, that, though they traded with rum, they themselves (as
followers of Mahomet) were temperate; and, like myself, they
had no love for Romanism with its Mariolatry, which, in Africa,
the priests made so very prominent, that the Virgin was wor-
shiped more than was her Divine Son. With the Moham-
medans I could heartily repeat " Allah il Allah " (there is no god
but God), the first half of their creed. My crew had done so
exceptionally well, that I bought a goat for them to enjoy at
their evening meal. Late in the evening, I finished my inspec-
tion, paid wages, squared Kongolo's accounts, and found them
correct.
On the Sunday, February 11, meeting was held; and I taught
at intervals all day, though I felt feverish and wearied. En-
joyed singing with Kongolo and Mbora. The former told me
that he desired to write to Mrs. Bushnell, of the Gaboon Baraka
school, for permission to marry one of her schoolgirls, an
Akele of the Gaboon River, Jane Preston by name. I do
not know whether he did so. At all events, nothing resulted.
This revealed a problem that was often facing us. Our native
young men were educated beyond their tribal young women.
They sought marriage with the young women of the " upper "
tribe, trained in our excellent Baraka school. But, it was im-
possible. Strict Mpongwe law forbade their women marrying
any man, however personally noble, of any lower tribe. In
this case, Jane Preston might have been available, as the Akele
tribe was not superior to Kongolo's Kombe. But, she was liv-
ing among the Mpongwe, a tribe claiming to be at the very top
of native society. So, that, often its young women, finding no
satisfactory suitor among their Mpongwe men, and forbidden
to marry " below " them, contracted common-law marriages
with men " above " them, the white foreigners.
On the Monday, visited again the Fanwe village. Stopped
again at Avyake's, and found that he had just returned from
a " war," in which he had shot a woman in revenge for the
" palaver " of Rogumu's stray canoe. In these family and
tribal fights there was no honorable war ; there was no open
attack on the villages where the men were. There were onlv
sudden ambushes in the forest, where the victims were the
women at work on their plantations. I held a service at
202 MY OGOWE
Avyake's, and spoke on the Resurrection. He was alarmed at
the idea of meeting the resurrected forms of those he had killed.
I came back, with a long circuit, to the Inenga village of La-
mbarene ; and, reaching my little hut at Kangwe, after five days'
absence, was enthusiastically welcomed by dog Brownie. The
dog was a real comfort to me. Some of my people were com-
panionable ; but, they were not dependant on me for their happi-
ness. The dog was; and his eyes and tail spoke, with almost
human speech, his love and gratitude. When I went, next day,
on an errand across the river to Atangina, he would not be left
behind, swam after us, and finally had to be taken aboard.
Rights of property in land and its trees, fruits and animals (in
other than planted gardens) were exceedingly difficult to be
understood by those natives. The old experiences of trespass
from which 1 had suffered at Corisco, Benita, and Belambla,
notwithstanding my very special explanations at the signing
of the deeds, begun to repeat themselves at Kangwe. To my
surprise, found Air. Travis' workmen cutting building materiel
on my premises. Of course he had not sent them there. They
had been sent out together, " in the forest." There was forest
on my premises. And, they thought nothing farther. Proba-
bly, also, proximity to companionship with my people, and a
share in their pipes and fires may have been a consideration why
they selected my forest. An Ajumba canoe came, with plan-
tains for sale. With it, in another canoe, was my friend Anege,
from Lake Azingo; and with him was a young Mpongwe man,
who said that he had seen me when I was living at the Maluku
Girls' School on Corisco Island, a dozen years before. What a
mixture of tribes, Benga, Mpongwe, Ajumba, Galwa, Fanwe,
etc. ! And, how little we knew of possible influence for good or
evil in our passing meetings with members of tribes other than
the one with which we temporarily were living!
My interest always went out to children. I did not like that
they should be afraid of me. Unfortunately, many unwise
mothers used on troublesome children a threat to give them to
the white man to be eaten! On February 14, one of Re-
Nkombe's women, Ozenge, with her child Aworo, made me a
friendly visit, and presented a chicken. Little Aworo was not
afraid of me. I had been feeling feverish, tired, and with a head-
ache. While quinine was the final cure for fever, I often broke
a slight malarial attack by a large use of cayenne pepper, either
mixed with food, or drunk with warm water. In the evening,
when I was hearing lessons (all of them voluntary on the part of
AT THE KANGWE HUT 203
my people), I noticed that Aveya was very diligent in reading
his Bible. And, I asked him what he thought of the God whose
Word he was reading. He replied that he thought of giving
his heart to Him ; but, that he had hesitated to speak to me of it.
In clearing on the premises space sufficient for building, I had
to be ruthless in the , destruction of valuable trees. Some ma-
hogany, ebony, and gum copal were thus cut down. I pitied
them ; but, I valued more the preservation of the oil-palms.
Other women came when they had an errand, of things to
sell, or favors to ask, or to gratify curiosity. Re-Nkombe's
sister Azizya came, at times, with apparently no reason other
than friendly interest. She was nobler than her brother, never
asking returns for benefits I derived from the fact of that
brother being my " patron."
The dog Brownie often seemed half-human. He attempted
to steal a taste of my butter-dish ; and I struck him. I am sure
that the blow did not hurt ; but the manner with which he slunk
away, seemed so distinctly less the pain of being punished than
the shame of detection. On Saturday afternoon, the 17th, I
went preaching in the streets of Eyenano and adjacent villages,
and inviting the people to my Sunday services.
On Sunday, early in the morning. I was aroused by a " bush-
cat " (genet) killing a chicken; and by an invasion of my hut by
driver ants ; and. of my little pantry by honey-bees. The former
were seeking rats. mice, and other vermin : the latter had found
some of their wild honey of which my people had plundered
them.
The Atangina friends brought me a gift of eggs and corn.
It was polite in them ; and there was no wrong in my accepting.
But, I had learned that I needed to be exceedingly careful in the
beginnings at my settlements about establishing precedents. The
fact of the goods being carried to my house on Sunday could
easily be misrepresented that I was buying on that day.
My little hut had but few treasures ; but, what I had were
prettily arranged, with a few bright souvenirs from distant
friends. One of the women, Mwenanga, exclaimed that the
sight of such pretty things " hurt her eyes." They remained to
afternoon Sabbath school. Strange questions were sometimes
asked. Teaching them of the Resurrection, a man asked
whether wounds would reappear in the future body?
By February 20, work was going on well at the Igolino hut.
It was a good place for marketing. All canoes coming up-river
passed close to this spot, avoiding the swift current of the
2o 4 MY OGOWE
Atangina side. Standing there, I could inspect the contents of
the canoes, and make necessary purchases. Prices were low,
as the number of white men in the river were too few to make
competition. I bought the carcass of a gazelle for three francs;
and a monkey for two francs.
There was much change in the number and persons of my em-
ployees. They worked well for a while ; and then, some little
thing would upset them. On February 24, I had rebuked
Lendaginya for dilatoriness in bringing my monthly mail. He
resented it ; I was about to dismiss him ; and he left. Eliva-
ntyani also secretly deserted. A matter of surprise to me was
that they should be offended at my rebuke, while they would
have endured a blow from a trader. It is quite possible that, at
times, I was under nervous tension, and may have rebuked in a
tone or manner sharper than I would have done in health. In
good health, I would have been less sensitive ; and possibly even
would not have seen occasion for rebuke.
Monday, February 26, was a noted day. There entered my
service a sturdy young Galwa, Xguva, a cousin of Aveya, not
attractive in personal appearance, but notable for his subsequent
character as a Christian, becoming finally a ruling elder in the
first Ogowe church.
Brownie's persistence in following me. in my boat journeys,
became a nuisance. I therefore ceased to yield to him, as I
hitherto had done, by finally taking him into the boat when he
was exhausted with swimming. Going, on the 27th, to
Atangina, to get the remainder of the ngouja (thatch) due me
from Re-Xkombe, I was followed, as usual, by the dog. But,
I refused to notice him; and the swift current carried him down
t( the small island sand-bar, near Tyango-ivenda (the extreme
northern end of my premises). There he was safe, but help-
less ; for, he was too tired to again enter the water, and, Atangina,
where I was, was out of his sight behind a point of land. When
I returned to the building at the Igolino hut, I sent two men in
a canoe to rescue him. They met a canoe of Re-Nkombe's
people, who having seen the dog in its plight, and knowing it
was mine, were returning it to me.
1 began to clear a spot at the mouth of the ravine, near my
own hut, for a boat-house. I had a canoe and a native boat,
which did not suffer greatly if left exposed to (he weather.
But, I was expecting a boat from the United States, and wished
to have a home ready for it. Tivino and Saviyeli were among
mv best workmen at that time. Along with those constant
AT THE KANGWE HUT 205
building operations I recreated occasionally with nets, which an
English naturalist, Rutherford, had sent me, for catching butter-
flies. At some seasons, they were in very great abundance.
And, just at that time, there was, among naturalists, a great call
for a specimen of an enormous-sized and very rare species, the
Antimachus. whose habitat was supposed to be quite local in
equatorial West Africa. In my years there, I found but two
specimens.
On March 3, in my usual Saturday afternoon village preach-
ing. I came to a village where was visiting the Nkami Chief,
Isagi. I had never liked, and did not trust him. At his own
town, where I had occasionally stopped, I accepted what he gave
me, according to custom, I being his " guest." But, that day.
when he offered me a present. I declined it. Not, because of my
dislike for him ; but, because I did not wish to seem to recognize
him as the village' authority, in place of the much inferior man
who was the actual authority, and therefore my " host." Aveva
was so long in responding, when I summoned the crew for the
return home, that J taught him a lesson of promptness, by leav-
ing him behind : and he had to swim, to overtake my canoe.
To the Sunday services, next day. came people from Adalina-
nanga and Atangina. Of course, they needed to leave for the
noon meal in their own villages. I offered them a lunch, if they
would remain to afternoon Sabbath school.
In the evening, my people asked me to sing for them. I did
so, both in English and Mpongwe. They liked the tunes of
" I have a Father in the promised land," " A little longer here
below," "Whither, pilgrims, are you going?" and. "O! think
of a home over there."
The days were busily and successfully occupied with receiving
visitors from different . parts of the river; buying supplies of
plantains, wild meat, nuts, ground-nuts, and building materiel
of thatch and bamboo ; superintending the completion of the
boat-house, firmly supported by its copal-tree posts ; making a
shed, in which to store materiel ; and dragging logs to be squared
for the frame of the house near the hilltop.
At noon of Saturday. March 10, quite a number of Re-
Nkombe's young men and boys came to visit me. I took the
public opportunity to announce that I would no longer employ
Oguma, one of their townsmen, because of his having misspent
the money which T had entrusted to his care when T went to
Gaboon in the preceding December. (He had taken good care
of the premises, but not of those funds.)
206 MY OGOWE
I went to preach at King Amale's town. Found him and his
family occupying the deserted German trading-house of Mr.
Schiff, who had moved out on to the main stream at new Lemba-
rene. I enjoyed the services. At the close, Amale offered me
the usual visitor's present. On other occasions, I would have
accepted it. But. I refused it that day, lest people should think
I had come for a gift. I wished my Gospel message to be
known as free. Dog Brownie, since his unpleasant experience
two weeks previously, no longer attempted to follow me on the
river.
I went to bed, about 10 p.m. of Wednesday, the 14th; but,
lay awake until 11 p. m., under an unusual impression of coming
evil. Suddenly, a messenger came from Mr. Travis at Aguma.
asking for an opiate, to relieve the pain of Mr. Lubcke, who had
been shot by the Bakele of a village on the Ngunye, who ob-
jected to his passing them, and carrying trade to their rivals
farther up-river. Quickly dressing, and summoning ten of my
people for rapid paddling. I hasted. On the way, I met Mr.
Travis coming from the new German house. He informed that
Mr. Lubcke was bleeding profusely. On arrival at the house, I
found Mr. Lubcke conscious, groaning, with a gun-shot wound
in his left shoulder, two over the stomach, one over the left kid-
ney, and one in the right groin. Streams of blood had been
flowing over the bedding and floor: but, bleeding had ceased.
To keep up his strength, liquor had been given him; but. too
abundantly. The wound in the groin was the worst. There
was suspicion that it had injured the urinary bladder; because,
Mr. Lubcke was in intense pain with desire to micturate, but un-
able to do so. In his intoxicated state he refused to allow me
to use a catheter. With small hope, his own white assistant, and
Mr. Travis, and I united to send him over the 200 miles to the
French hospital at Gaboon. In Mr. Travis' best canoe, and with
a flying force of two dozen picked paddlers, Mr. Lubcke was to
go under the escort of the civilized Senegalese. Mr. Mane. T
watched the case all night; during which time T wrote a letter
to Dr. Bushnell at Baraka. At daylight, T returned to my house.
And. later, with only six paddles in the Spcs, returned, to give
my boat-sail for possible use in the canoe at sea. and some of my
best food supplies that contained home luxuries which the
traders, with all their means, did not have.
Mr. Lubcke started finally at 11.30 a. m. of the 15th. He
was taken the r^o miles to the river mouth, and then the sev-
enty miles of sea to Libreville. [With continuous paddling of
AT THE KANGWE HUT 207
the twenty-four men. and the aid of the sail at sea, a most un-
precedented run of less than 36 hours was made to the hospital
at Libreville, where the patient recovered. A most astonishing
assertion was made subsequently, by both Mr. Lubcke and Mr.
Mane, that, in the canoe, on the way down-river, the intense
desire to micturate overcame all obstacles, and a piece of
brass rod, one of the slugs fired by the Bakele, and which was
supposed to have entered the groin and into the urinary bladder,
was voided through the natural outlet. I could not believe it,
and suggested that the slug must have been embedded in Mr.
Lubcke's clothing. But, he asserted that he felt the gradual
passage of the slug, and that after its expulsion, almost all pain
ceased.]
That day, the 15th, of course, I was very sleepy; and, the
morning being rainy, little work was done at the Igolino hut.
Later, I went to call on Re-Nkombe, and made him a present.
He was sitting down literally in the dust, mourning for the
death of one of his women, Ozenge, the mother of little Aworo.
Mamwemi returned. And, there came a new employee, Igamba
(word).
In the wild forest that I was clearing, animals new to me
were occasionally found by my employees. On Saturday, the
17th, they caught four young creatures that were quite new to
me. They were the size of squirrels, but, their face of a differ-
ent color, and with large ears and eyes. I suppose that they
were lemurs.
The 1 8th was a clear pleasant Sunday. My Lake Azingo
friend, Anege, on his journey, happened along, just at Sunday-
school time. Also several lads from Adalinananga. L T nder the
beautiful sunset, I sat outdoors singing with Mbora and Aveya.
And, after evening prayers, I sang for all my household. They
enjoyed this, especially when I accompanied myself on my
guitar. I was longing for a mail to come. I had read and re-
read every line of my newspapers.
As so often occurred, after a pleasant Sunday, the following
Monday was an evil one. With my entire force of workmen, I
had gone to the Igolino hut. The quickest mode of reaching
that spot, instead of up and over and down the Hill, was by
canoe around it. All the employees worked poorly. I had to
rebuke almost every one. for some offense or other. (Perhaps
I irritated them, and they became reckless.) In returning, in
the late afternoon, four of the company, instead of waiting on
their usual habit of allowing me to land first, jumped violently
208 MY OGOWE
ashore, and almost upset the canoe. And. in the evening, they
all were noisy. I determined that I would finish that Igolino
next day, and then send half of the company to live there: and
thus leave me more room and quiet at the ravine hut. Savi-
yeli and Mburu returned, with plantains; and accompanied by
Romwango's wife. A crowded house, and a noisy night.
T had often to impress on people, my rights to the Hill prop-
erty (whose boundaries were well outlined) and objected to
their hunting animals, gathering fruits, cutting trees, or tres-
passing in other ways. Most of this was new to them. Nobody
owned anything in the wild forest ! Anyone could take any-
thing from there ! The only ground that natives claimed was
that of their actual village, and of their plantations distant a
half-mile in the forest. For that claim, there was clear right;
for. village and plantation were cleared, planted, and occupied.
(But. if they ceased to occupy, and abandoned them, the claim
ceased.) But. they made no claim on any forest, for. it was not
enclosed or outlined. Imitating m\ claims for my forest and
trees, a man. Xduta. from Atangina. demanded pay for sap-
lings which in)' people had cut in the forest near his village. T
refused; because that forest was not marked and bounded, as
mine was.
We all went, on Tuesday, the 20th. to the Nkami side of the
Hill, to finish the Igolino hut. putting in its doors and windows.
T think that the presence of Romwango's pleasant-looking wife
had something to do with the good behavior of the workmen.
The next day. T gave the morning, to the ten of my household
whom I had assigned to the Igolino. for them, without me, to
put the finishing touches on that dwelling, while I. with the re-
maining five, transferred the many articles of food, tools, etc..
etc.. that had crowded my bedroom to the now vacated room of
those ten. I felt relieved of their noise, and comfortable that I
had space in my little hut. in which to move.
The Igolino being finished. T went that very afternoon, to the
hilltop, to begin clearing the site T had chosen for my framed-
house. Under the heavy " latter '* rains, the river was so full
that it was backing up into the rivulet that ran down the ravine,
so that my boat and canoes, in landing, had no need to be
dragged ashore; they floated into the ravine, to the ed^e of the
boat-shed.
A constant difficulty in my household, was the food question.
In their own villages, meal times were irregular, and often, food
scarce; and they were familiar with hunger. But, there, their
AT THE KANGWE HUT 209
work was very irregular. With me, their work was regular,
and harder than what was in their own villages; and, I recog-
nized that they should have more to eat. It was rare that I
failed to give them a good ration, though it cost me constant
forethought to keep a supply on hand, there being nothing like
a market-place. I obtained foods from only chance passing
canoes, or by sending to villages sometimes a dozen miles away.
The point of difficulty was that I could not always furnish meat
at every meal every day. I was quite willing to do so; but, it
was impossible to obtain fresh meat every day, and very difficult
to keep on hand dried meats. Kindly, I sometimes gave them a
feast, when I could get a goat, or leg of some wild animal. So,
I felt that they were exacting and unappreciative, in their com-
plaints, when sometimes they had their plantains without meat.
It w^as unjust in them ; for, both they and I knew that often, in
their own homes, they had no meat at all. These troubles de-
pressed me. Sometimes I began to think that I spoiled my em-
ployees by pampering them. Then, again, they would be so
kind and helpful and affectionate, that in my heart I forgave
them, with a paternal feeling. They were only overgrown chil-
dren.
I almost always had a goat on hand, for a possible necessity
for flesh. At that time. I had a female with a little kid. I had
allowed the latter to take all of its mother's milk. But. one day.
I decided to make it share with me. It was the first fresh milk
I had had during my more than two years in the Ogowe !
On Thursday. March 29, a canoe passed up-river, which T
recognized as the one. in which Mr. Mane had taken the wounded
Mr. Lubcke to Gaboon. Anxious to hear news, I sent a mes-
senger to follow it to Aguma. Word was returned that Mr.
Lubcke would probably recover! And. that the German agent.
Mr. Schultze with his little steamer was on his way with a mail.
Two days later, thinking that Mr. Schultze must be near, in my
longing for a mail. I stopped work, and went to Aguma. and re-
mained for supper. About sunset, we heard that Mr. Schultze
had arrived at his house in the main branch. After supper, I in
my canoe. Mr. Woodward with Mr. Travis in his gig. went to
the German house. There was there also a French officer, who
had come on a punitive expedition, to punish the Akele village
that had fired on Mr. Lubcke. My mail had come from a num-
ber of persons; but. nothing from either of my sons. Returned,
late at night, and sat up until past midnight reading letters and
newspapers.
210 MY OGOWE
About midnight of Sunday. April i. T had to leave my bed.
from an invasion of a driver-ant army. I got very little sleep
the remainder of that night.
So. I rose fagged in the morning of Monday. But, on invi-
tation from the German house, I went to their 11 a. m, "break-
fast." Mr. Schultze and the French officer were absent up the
Ngunye, on their raid against the Bakele. They returned late ;
their expedition a failure. Breakfast, having been delayed for
them, was unsatisfactory; and I was very sleepy. And, the
next day, I was feverish. Loss of sleep, two consecutive nights,
was an evil.
On Saturday, the 7th, went on my regular weekly preaching
in the villages. At Eyenano, had a large attendance of men,
women, and children. Then, went on to Aguma. to hear details
of the French fiasco up the Ngunye. While there. I saw a very
demonstrative sign of mourning. One of Mr. Travis' Orungu
traders, Ndambenje, a very proud young man, who always wore
fine clothing, was making up his accounts with Mr. Travis, when
some one brought the former word of the death of a relative.
He dropped his accounts, rushed out of the room, screaming,
and tore his handsome shirt to pieces.
In the afternoon of Wednesday, the nth, I heard two reports
of guns, which I thought must be cannon of the Pioneer. My
people thought not. But, next morning, just as they were dis-
persing at 8 a. m. to their work, the vessel was seen entering the
river at Aguma. She had reached the main-stream mouth of
the cross creek on the day before. At once. I went to Aguma.
and remained to the 11 a. m. breakfast. Such good news! My
gig, the X cl I x- Howard, had arrived by the Pioneer. Also, sup-
plies of provisions from Rev. Dr. Bushnell at Libreville: a bundle
of papers from Miss Dewsnap at Baraka : bed-clothing from my
sister at Benita, and her February letters, telling of her severe
illness: a paper l>ox of presents from Mrs. William Patten,
guardian of my son Charles; a box of a variety of good things
from Trenton, from my parents and sisters. The donors of such
gifts can never know, even though the grateful recipients tell in
best words their gratitude, what blessings they confer. The
value of the things given are far and beyond any pecuniary rate.
One must live in the isolation I was occupying, in order fully to
know the gladness of the joy such favors brought, as evidences
of love.
The boat, Nelly-Howard, was a wonderful donation. For
twelve years it played a most active part in my Ogowe work.
AT THE KANGWE HUT 211
A Princeton University classmate, Samuel R. Forman, M.D.,
elder and Sabbath school superintendent in the First Presby-
terian Church of Jersey City, N. J., interested himself and his
church to obtain for me a boat of the very best materiels and
construction. As it would cost some $300, Dr. Forman inter-
ested other churches, viz., of Freehold, N. J., under the pastorate
of another Princeton classmate, Rev. Dr. Frank Chandler; also,
the First Presbyterian Church of Peekskill, N. Y., under elder
and Sabbath school superintendent S. R. Knapp, Esqr., another
classmate ; and, Mr. J. E. Harran, of the Philadelphia North
Presbyterian Church, the church of some of my Philadelphia
relatives; and Mrs. William Patten, and other friends in Phila-
delphia of the Spring Garden Presbyterian Church; and Calvin
YVadhams, another classmate, superintendent of the Sabbath
school of the Memorial Church, of Wilkesbarre, Pa. Corre-
spondence as to the size, etc., of the boat was instituted in June,
1876. by Mr. F. S. Emmons, secretary of the First Presbyterian
Church of Jersey City Sabbath School Missionary Association,
and his assistant, Mr. Buswell, of which association I was made
a life member. The construction was given to a certain firm of
boat-builders in Jersey City, Fennels & Sopher. The boat was
a steamer captain's gig, thirty feet long and about five feet in its
widest middle, tapering to a sharp bow. The materiels were
cedar (not pine) thus intended that it should not soon decay.
Knowing how iron rusts, the nails were all of copper ; the row-
locks and trimmings, brass. The timbers were very light, to
diminish weight. The oars were six, fifteen feet in length, not
paired, but alternate, so that each rower should put his strength
of both hands on the one oar. The rudder was guided by tiller-
ropes; and, in the stern-sheets, there was comfortable space for
three to sit on each side. The area at the stern could be covered
by extra boards, making a platform on which bedding could be
comfortably spread. There was a frame and canvas cover over
this at night so that the enclosed space was private and safe from
rain, as in a tent. And a long awning the entire length of the
boat, to protect from sun by day. The boat was very lightly
built, and was not intended to carry freight. It was planned
only for my rapidity and comfort in journeys. (But. necessity,
later, made it carry often very heavy freightage.) I named it
for Dr. Forman's two little children, Nelly and Howard, Nelly-
Howard. The boat and those two names played a prominent
part in the subsequent years of my Ogowe life.
212 MY OGOWE
JOURNEY UP THE NGUNYE.
My attention had been drawn to the river Ngunye by the
attack on the German trader's boats, and by the failure of the
French authorities to make any adequate punishment. But
Africa is a land of rapid change. Commerce could not delay.
Other traders had pressed on up the river, beyond the villages
that had tried to prevent the German ; and, no opposition was
made. The English house had their M pong we trader Ngeza
there, and the Pioneer was going to bring away his rubber. I
was invited to take passage, and see the river.
I did so. on the morning of Friday, April 13. As I was late
in starting from Kangwe, I was met by Mr. Travis' gig. which
he kindly sent for me. I was glad to rest on the deck of the
evenly moving Pioneer; for, I was tired and sleepy with reaction
from my excitement of examining the gifts from America, and
reading of the papers and letters. We passed, in entire safety,
and with no demonstration of any kind, the Akele villages that
had so excited the river by its attack on Mr. Lubcke. As the
steamer advanced, we left the low shores behind, and had a view
of the hills to the south, whence the Ngunye came. To my
agreeable surprise, there were no mosquitoes. Though the na-
tives on the route had made no hostile demonstration, the cap-
tain was very careful in his orders at night against any canoes
being- allowed to have communication with us.
The next morning, all, captain, crew, and passengers were
early out of hammock or cot. The air was misty, preventing
any view of the adjacent scenery. Continuing the journey,
villages were passed of the Ivili tribe: a tribe that is more numer-
ous on the coast and farther south of Loango. We readied
Xgeza's trading-house in the afternoon about 3 o'clock. Mr.
Woodward kindly tried to get me a canoe and crew to take me
some eight miles farther, that 1 might see the Samba Falls (the
" Eugenie " Falls of I)n Chaillu). But, there were none: every-
body was busy weighing rubber.
The next day. Sunday, the work of weighing and buying rub-
ber continued. Xgeza, though the house was his. and the rubber
his (subordinate to the firm of IT. & C.) was the only native,
who. as a Christian, declined to take part in that work. I went
ashore to the Ivili village of Agamba. and held a meeting.
Images are not common in fetish-worship; but. 1 saw some in
the fetish-house. Spent the afternoon, quietly reading. At
AT THE KANGWE HUT 213
night, there was a heavy rain ; for, April and May are the latter
rainy-season months.
On the Monday, I rose early; and, by 6.30 a. m., due to Mr.
Woodward's successful arrangements, was off in a light canoe
and five hired paddlers besides my own three men. After two-
and-a-half hours' pull, we reached the falls. Above them, the
river is only about 350 feet wide, with a little island in the edge
of the fall in its position reminding one of Goat Island at
Niagara. At the fall itself, the river contracts to 150 feet in
width. The plunge of the water is only about ten or twelve
feet, with rapids below, having a descent of about five feet in
200 feet. The rocks were hard quartz. I doubted whether
those were Du Chaillu's " Eugenie."' The river had a series of
cataracts ; I think that the Eugenie Falls are farther up the
stream.
Returned by 11 a. m., bringing with me souvenir flowers and
stones. I enjoyed the view of the falls very much, and would
have lingered there. But, I hastened my return ; for, the Pioneer
had expected to start her return journey at noon. But, being
delayed by her trading, the start was deferred. I spent the
afternoon in writing to a friend in the United States, an account
of the " Eugenie " Falls. And, in the evening, the captain and
Mr. Woodward being in a witty humor, we had a good deal of
" chaffing " back and forth, in which I joined. This unusual
recreation was a medicine to me, arousing me from the depress-
ing routine my isolation at Kangwe had induced.
On Tuesday early, the start down-river was made, with a
safe run in narrow channels for five hours. Then, the vessel
went hard aground. Six hours' hard work finally floated the
vessel. We all felt very much relieved. We were in an exposed
position had there been any disposition of the Bakele to attack us.
Discharging the cargo had allowed the vessel to float ; but to
leave those goods ashore all night would expose them to theft
and to rain. Travel at night was impossible in the narrow chan-
nels. The risk of theft was safely made; and, fortunately, there
was only a slight rain.
On Wednesday early, the discharged cargo was taken on
board. And. by 10 a. m. we were back at Aguma, after six
days' absence. My people heard the Pioneers whistle, and they
came for me with a gratifying welcome. I was equally glad to
find that nothing had gone amiss during my absence. Kongolo
arrived from Belambla, with the news that Kasa was dead, killed
by an elephant.
2i 4 MY OGOWR
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
It was proper that I should promptly go to the out-station to
see what might be the conditions after Kasa's death.
Gahva employees were less tractable than Benga or Kombe
with whom I had dealt. Almost every journey was preceded by
some complaints or demands or refusals. Two of my men.
Igamba and Ambangila, refused to go with me. Perhaps they
were afraid of some quarrel or debts they may have contracted
among the Bakele. I gave them the choice of obedience or dis-
missal. And. Saviyeli complained, because, instead of giving
him a seat in the fine Xelly-Howard, I had appointed him among
the crew of a small canoe I was taking with me. Stopped at
Aguma, for a supply of goods. The Pioneer was preparing to
return to Gaboon. I sent a mail by her. The X ell y- Howard
moved very rapidly, as it had practically no load. The crew
pulled well, though the handling of the long single oars was
something new to them. At sundown, we reached Sakweli's,
for the night. The next day, Saviyeli repeated his complaints.
An Akele chief, seeing the handsome new boat, mistook it for a
man-of-war's man's captain's gig. and came, to inquire whether
it was on an errand to fight with Bakele. Stopped to eat at
Avyake's. Did not enjoy the hour. He attempted to make a
defense of his violent treatment of the trader Rogomu ; his peo-
ple were running a hard bargain over the food I wished to pur-
chase; and, my own people were slow in cooking. But. I made
up for the lost time, by the very rapid movements of the boat.
People, at villages we passed, shouted in admiration, and little
canoes attempted to race with us.
I passed Kasa's. On arrival at my house, the usual crowd of
Bakele did not come to salute me. They feared I had come to
avenge my plundered house! There came only the man
Semegwe and two boys, Bideli and Mutyi, and two Mpongwe
traders.
The next day, the only Akele, who came to see me was
Semegwe. The two Mpongwes came again, and I took counsel
with them whom we should recognize as Kasa's successor.
Then. I went to Kasa's town, to see his people. However in-
sincere the demonstrations of grief for his death may have been,
it was all very pathetic and touching. T had been his " friend."
As such, they were pleased that I had shown him the respect
of coming to the mourning. But, mingling with their gratifica-
tion at this, was a very evident fear of me, as to what I might do
AT THE KANGWE HUT 215
about the robbery. I certainly had no evil intention. That fear
was the outcome of their own sense of guilt. But, it was touch-
ingly mollified, by the action of two little girls, Mula and Konga,
whom I had petted. They came to me, without hesitation, to be
petted as usual. I could see a pleased light spread over the faces
of the company, as I put my arms around the two children.
At mournings, not much is expected to be said. Grief ex-
pressed itself either in dull silence, or yells of wailing. After
sitting silent, I said, adopting native custom, that I had come to
see my friend Kasa, that I did not see him, and wished to know
where he was. Then, the wails ceased, while a man told me how
Kasa had gone hunting elephants ; had wounded one ; it turned
and charged at him ; he fired again, but the gun only flashed in
the pan ; and the elephant had gored him with its tusks, one
through his thigh, and one through an arm-pit; and then had
flung him aside. His slaves had brought his body to town, and
he had died on the next day. But, before he died, he had ac-
cused twelve of his wives and other slaves of having bewitched
his gun !
Those accusations were evidently based on memory of some
disobedience or other offenses. The twelve had been immedi-
ately seized ; and, at his death, three of them had already been
put to death. Observing that his wives, with whom I had been
friendly, were not present, I asked for them. There was some
delay which I did not understand. When they came, I regretted
that I had insisted. For, as part of the proof of grief in mourn-
ing, not only are all ornaments removed, but, in the case of these
widows, they had been divested of every vestige of clothing.
They had been sitting naked in a hut by themselves. When they
were told that they must come to see Kasa's friend, who had
asked for them, they yielded. They slipped into the room, and
huddled down in a corner, one of them with a plate in her hands
as the only protection to her body. Among themselves, this
nakedness was endured as the custom of their country. But I
had always treated them with such courtesy and respect, that
they recognized my code of shame. I told them that I had not
known their condition when I sent for them. Then I turned to
the company, and made a vigorous demand that I did not believe
that my dead friend wanted any more people killed, and that, if
they valued my friendship, I insisted that the other nine prison-
ers should be released, and no farther murder made. I do not
know how mixed may have been their motives ; but, they seemed
pleased. And, the lives of those nine were saved. I was so
2 1 6 MY OGOWE
glad for this. that, in a reaction from the sad and dreadful feel-
ings of the day. on return to my own house, and among my own
crew, whom I felt under an obligation to amuse. I gave them
firecrackers to play with in the evening. Those were a great
rarity. They could not be obtained in that part of Africa. T
always brought a supply from my furloughs in America, and
kept them hidden for only important occasions. But, the ex-
citements of the day had been too much for me ; and. during the
night, I had some fever.
On Sunday, I awoke with perspiration, which I always re-
garded as a good sign. And, for the first time in Africa, I put
on a red woolen shirt. I had feared it would be uncomfortable:
but, it was not. I conducted the morning services to a good
attendance of Bakele and Mpongwe. Semegwe again came to
see me. Perhaps he was seeking recognition in Kasa's position.
I held also a good Sabbath school. And. at its close was taken
down with a hard chill. I treated myself with hot drinks, and
hot-water bottles to my back. The young men were very
thoughtful and attentive. Cook Mbora's interest took almost
the form of a rebuke. " You should not get sick! " And Kongo-
lo begged me not to get sick while I was his visitor! As if he
would be blamed for not taking better care of me!
The next day. fever was gone ; but, T felt very light-headed.
However, I was able to examine Kongolo's accounts; and found
them $6 short. A trader. Ambura, came to see me. We con-
ferred about Kasa's successor ; and chose Jongane. Also. T
added the name of Semegwe. as patron of my out-station. In
the afternoon. Kasa's mother and sister and head-wife and
Jongane came: and I announced to them my decision. And.
then, I went across the river to the Fariwe village, to buy plan-
tains; for, at Kasa's, there was nothing to be bought. Towns
of mourning are overrun with guests, and their food supply runs
low.
The following day, Tuesday, the 24th. Disingwe and others
came to see me. And then I packed, and left. On the way,
stopped to salute, at Ondene's. Mvangane's. Avvake's. and
Manda's where T delayed to eat. The boat was everywhere ad-
mired. Stopped at Anyambe-jena's. Tie presented me with a
fowl: and immediately asked for a gift. Of course. T knew,
that any present from a native was expected to be recognized by
a gift later on. But, the making of a request for an immediate
return was impolite on part of the donor, and so offensive to me,
that I alwavs did. as T did that dav to him. i. e., T handed back
AT THE KANGWE HUT . 217
the fowl, declining to take it in any other way than purchase.
The purchase price was always less than what I would have
given as gift, if he had suppressed his cupidity.
My crew, though unaccustomed to handling long oars, were
so delighted with the boat's progress that they kept steadily at
the oars all the twenty miles to Kangwe. There again the
fever-chill seized me. And, I could do nothing for two days,
except that I sent by the trader Dose, to Kongolo, a box of
bread-fruit tree-sets, for him to plant at Belambla. [They are
growing there to-day.]
On Monday, April 30, I was again busy with the workmen
trying to drag uphill a very heavy log, for a sill of the new
house that was to be built. But. they could not move it. Two
days later. I sent to Adalinananga for people to come and help.
There came, the next day. some half-dozen weak ones ; and the
log barely moved. I paid them off ; and they were to return
next day with more people. I did not believe they would come.
So, I wrote to Mr. Travis asking for the loan of his powerful
Kru-men. On Friday, May 4. to my surprise, more than twenty
Galwas were on hand ; and a note from Air. Travis that he would
come. With his men, I would not need the Galwas. But, I
took them, lest they would fail to come, if I should need them in
the future. My logging became a picnic. Messrs. Travis and
\Yoodward, with a German, came in their two gigs with four-
teen Kru-men. all on hand by 9.30 a. m. Fifty pairs of hands
at the log was play. The men danced and sang. The log was
soon at the top ; and the men asked for more worlds to conquer !
A second big log was soon set. Then we had our 11 a.m.
breakfast, cook Mbora having made a fine showing. After the
meal, a third log was dragged, to crown the day's work. My
kind trader friends had helped me, by doing in three hours what
my slow-work people would have taken a week to do. Every-
body felt so happy, that, when my visitors were gone, I gave
my household the remainder of the day as holiday, and some
firecrackers in the evening.
And. vet, as often happened after a kindness, three days later,
four of my people left dissatisfied!
On May 8, my materiel had so increased, that I marked the
outlines of the new house.
Friends in the United States, had remembered me with some
books and magazines. On the 10th. I was reading George
Eliot's " Felix Holt." I felt and recognized her literary power,
but was disappointed as to the moral effect of her religions
218 MY OGOWE
views. I was pleased to find my feelings exactly expressed in a
critique, on which my eye happened to fall that same day, in a
copy of Scribner's Magazine, for October, 1874.
On Saturday, the 12th, I went to Atangina, on the usual
weekly preaching. Re-Nkombe wished to give me a goat. But,
I refused to receive it, on the ground that my visit that day was
not that of a social friend, but as preacher of the Gospel.
Brownie, though he had ceased to follow me in the water,
on my excursions, would watch the boat's direction, and, when-
ever possible, would follow ashore. That day, knowing that
Atangina was opposite to the lower side of the Hill, he ran over
the Hill, to watch us ; and then, when he saw us returning, he
ran back over the Hill, to meet us at the boat-shed.
The goat which I had refused to accept from Re-Nkombe, at
my preaching services at his town, I accepted as a gift on Tues-
day, the 15th, when he paid the last instalment on his debt of
building materiel which he owed me.
Early in the morning of Wednesday, the 18th, while dressing.
I heard the puffing of Mr. Schultze's little steamer, Onuu/u,
towing his little schooner up my Ajumba stream. I went out,
and had my flag waved as a salute. The crew hailed me, and I
sent off a canoe, which brought word that there was mail and
freight for me. I sent the kongongo Spes to follow to the Ger-
man house, while I went with the remainder of my employees
to the daily job at logs on the hilltop. When Spes returned, I
sat down in the afternoon to read my accumulated mail ; letters
from fellow missionaries, from European and American friends,
from relatives and my children. In the evening, I shared my
joy, by reading some of the letters to my household.
The traders, though most of them had little sympathy with
our mission work, had the fellow feelings of humanity for me.
They knew that, in an emergency, I would stand by them. And,
they obligingly brought for me my mails and supplies from
Gaboon.
The next day, Saturday, the 19th, in going on my weekly
preaching service to the villages, I passed on to the German
house, to make a call of thanks on Mr. Schultze. In his position,
he had frequent opportunities of collecting specimens in natural
history, and other curios. He had that day a very singular
little antelope; I could not recognize what was its species.
I think that the Galwas were the most excitable and quarrel-
some of any of the tribes with which I had dealt. On Monday.
the 2 1 st, cook Mbora and Tivino had a fight. Their contest was
AT THE KANGWE HUT 219
fierce; it was daring, in my presence; and, it was disrespectful,
in that they would not cease at my command. I knew nothing
about the merits of their contention, or which was in the wrong.
I could not allow the disorder ; and I proceeded to chastise them,
young men though they were. (This, a very rare act with me,
was a common one among the traders. ) My unusual act caused
an excitement ; the resultant trouble took away my appetite, and
I refused to eat, when the noon meal was set before me. Not to
eat is, by the natives, considered a sign of either sickness or great
grief. Three of my best employees, Aveya, Ogula, and Ayenwe,
made an unusual demonstration of oriental respect. They
came kneeling, and begged me to eat. And, Mbora gave me
very great attention during the remainder of the day. Two
days later, Tivino took a vacation.
On Thursday, the 24th, heard that the Pioneer had arrived.
I went to Aguma, and found another mail. Also, Mr. Jobet,
agent of H. & C, had come on a visit of inspection. There was
also a French doctor, on a visit. How the number of white
men in the river fyad increased from the five of three years
before !
From time to time, I found new fruits and vegetables. On
May 25, I had at dinner a good chicken-salad, the vegetable
being " palm-cabbage," the heart of the top of a palm-tree.
This, with a dried-currant pie, and the best loaf of bread that
Mbora had yet made for me, furnished an unusually good feast.
But, my household had not had meat for two weeks. It was
impossible to obtain any. This they knew ; and, they tried J:o be
patient, and did not rebel. A day later, I was able to purchase
them a goat. The work on the Hillside went well. I was setting
the posts for the foundation. One very heavy post fell, and in-
jured Brownie's left hind leg.
By June 1, the foundation posts were all in position, and the
first sill was raised to its place. The site not being on the level
of the actual hilltop, but on its slope, the " front "of the house
was some eight feet high and without steps; so that the real
entrance was from the " rear," where the floor was only two
feet from the ground. Natives were very timid about handling
wild animals. I took up a chameleon in my hand. My people
were alarmed.
On Saturday, June 2, for the usual village service, I went to
Eyenano, to Sonye's village; there was the largest assemblage
I had yet had in my Kangwe visitings, mostly women and chil-
dren. At Benita, I had fluent use of Benga, and needed no in-
220 MY OGOWE
terpreter. During my two years at Belambla, I had depended
on an interpreter for Dikele; for, my attention was distracted
from study of that dialect, by hearing much Mpongwe among
the Galwa employees. During the one year at Kangwe, I had
confined myself to a Mpongwe interpreter. But, that day,
aroused by the sight of the crowd before me, I spoke freely,
without interpreter; my first unaided public address in Mpongwe.
On Sunday, the 3d, while I was sitting in the hut, preparing
for the morning services, a large snake suddenly appeared from
one corner of the room, gliding across the clay floor. The door
was closed which led to the other, the public room of the hut;
and the reptile seemed uncertain, how to get out, as it circled
around me. I jumped out of the open window. The snake fol-
lowed ; and my employees emerged from their hut, at my shout.
We struck it ; but. it escaped. It probably had entered the hut,
in search of rats which were apt to infest the thatch roof. Next
day. the snake was found dead.
I am sure that those who send books and magazines, etc., to
foreign missionaries in countries where there are no books to be
obtained, do not appreciate how much they are enjoyed. Some
one had sent to me an almanac and two calendars. How I did
enjoy their daily use!
I had constantly heard owls at night, but had not, during all
my African days, until June 5, seen a living one, by daytime.
One was brought to me for purchase. Also, a snake, a horned
viper the Cerastes horrida (Echidna Gabonica).
On Sunday, June 10, there came to services, a young man,
Nyani-nyango (Little bird) who called himself "John." He
said that he had lived with Rev. C. De Heer at Elongo on
Corisco Island. Something about his manner made me doubt
him. A woman gratefully gave me seven eggs, because, when
she and her husband had come, in a heavy rain two months be-
fore, to sell me some thatch, T had sheltered them, and had made
her a gift of soap. The cool weather was decided dry season
temperature ( J une-September) .
On Monday, the nth. I finished placing the sixth and last sill
of the house, and began the sleepers for one of the gables. T
gathered specimens of wood, to send to a friend in the United
States, as my felling of trees for the new house revealed to me
a variety of woods.
AT THE KANGWE HUT 221
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
Kongolo wished to return to his country of Benita. So, it
was necessary for me to go to Belambla, and put some one in
his place. The only one of my people who had any education
(given in my Benita home, eight years previously) beyond read-
ing, and the only professing Christian was cook Mbora, of the
Nkami tribe. Him I directed to take Kongolo's place (though
I would be losing a good cook) for I felt it important that
Belambla should not be closed. Saviyeli and others failed to
keep a promise to return from a vacation at their homes in time
for the journey. So, on June 14, I took an unskilled crew from
Atangina. Nevertheless, they rowed well. And, I had a
pleasant day. What a comfort the Nelly-Hozvard was to me!
I had stopped at Aguma for breakfast. There was there a
Mpongwe trader, Ndeg-oma (Friend of a person) with his
large canoe and crew ; and Nkami Chief Isagi and his people.
Reached the Nenge-sika Island by 7 p. m. Of course, it was
dark ; but I knew that the welcome of the place was sure.
(When intending to stop at a strange place for night, I always
arrived by daylight.) After I had gone to bed, Ndeg-oma also
arrived, with a great deal of noise.
The next morning, Friday, the 15th. the covetous Anyambe-
jena came from his adjacent village, to beg for gifts; and Bakele
came with fowls to sell at prices too high for me to buy. I
really think that the handsome boat, superior to anything in the
river, gave them the idea that I had wealth. I passed Avyake ? s
without stopping: and went to Myangane's for breakfast, and
held services. But, the people were very disrespectful and noisy.
Ondene had removed his town to another locality. Was wel-
comed at Belambla. The first news announced to me was the
good news that the new chief, of my selection, Jongane. had not
allowed any witchcraft murders. Ondene and his women came
to see me. Also, three of Kasa's widows.
The first trees I had carefully planted were doing well; even
the two coconuts which I had hastily thrust into the ground,
in the preceding September. The premises were in good condi-
tion kept by Kongolo : the people spoke well of him. I took
Mbora. as his expected successor, around the outlines of the
grounds, to show him what was mission property.
Next day, Saturday, the 16th, I examined Kongolo's accounts,
and found them exactly correct. In the afternoon. I visited the
Fanwe village across the river; and was well received; two
222 MY OGOWK
women gave me a present of plantains. Returning in the even-
ing, I gave out to Mbora, a two months' supply of goods for his
expenses. It was a beautiful half-full moonlight night; only,
the mosquitoes were numerous!
After a pleasant Sunday. I left Belambla on Monday. June
1 8. Kongolo making his good-bys to the people; and Chief
Jongane and his wives coming for gifts. I did not stop any-
where on the way down-river. In passing the mouth of the
Xgunye, being in a happy mood, and seeing some hippopotami,
and remembering how they often had alarmed me by pursuing
my kongongo, I, for variety, amused myself by pursuing them.
And, I was back at Kangwe before evening.
JOURNEY TO GABOON.
The semi-annual journey was arranged for Thursday. June
21. People came from Atangina, to say good-by and to beg for
gifts. Their good-will visit was so obviously selfish, that I gave
them nothing. I constantly recognized the propriety of giving
for favors received ; but, I saw no reason in this case why I
should give.
I started about noon with the two boats, having as passengers
Ombya-ogwana and his wife, visitors from Igenja. At Aveya's
village Ginigo, by 5 p. M. There I met his "little sister Aziza,
who, in later years, became an important assistant in my family.
Xext day. we were late in starting. As I had been given hos-
pitality, I gave gifts in return to the women. At the Oranga
exit of Lake Onanga, stopped to buy fish. The people were
noisy and clamorous. An old man wanted to delay, and con-
tract a " friendship." That meant I would have to pay for the
friendship: so. I hasted on to Mbanga's village to eat the noon
meal ; and. on to friend Azaze's : and to Igenja for the night.
Mamba's mother received us with great demonstrations of joy.
Angeka's little sister, at the usual evening service, wished that
there was a girls' school to which she could go.
The next day. I found that two of my best crew, planning for
a speculation of their own on Gaboon prices, had. without asking
my permission, crowded the boat with a lot of fowls they were
taking for sale. I ordered the fowls out. This was a frequent
occurrence on my journeys. The boat was for my con-
venience and c<mfnrt. Some of the space I had to" use in
boxes of goods for buying food for the crew. They also, each
of the six. were allowed to take a small box. the size of a suit-
case, of changes of clothing, etc. But, bevond that, they often
AT THE KANGWE HUT 223
attempted to fill in other luggage of their own, even to the point
of discomfort to myself, and increase of weight of the boat. Re-
Teno, head of the Ivili town at Ashuka, came to inquire why I
did not visit him. Ashuka did not coincide in time with my hour
for eating. When on a preaching tour, I stopped at all villages.
On other journeys, I had to pass by those that did not fit into
my day's schedule of hours. The dry season wind was strong in
our faces, and made waves, that, though small, did really ob-
struct our progress. Stopped, late in the evening, in the forest,
to eat ; and, went on at night, to Ngumbe, the town of Chief
Isagi, having made about fifty-eight miles that day. And re-
mained over Sunday.
Slow progress was made on Monday and Tuesday, to Angala.
There, the German and French traders had comfortable houses,
in which I was entertained, and in one of whose boat-houses, I
stored the Nelly-Howard, as I did not regard it fit for a sea
journey; the smaller and native-made boat, Charity, was of a
shape better fitted for the sea use.
King Esongi, who formerly had been extremely friendly, re-
fused to loan me a certain article, for which I asked, as an
anchor. (More and more. I found that, in such unpleasant acts
from people who were ordinarily pleasant, there was some hid-
den superstitious reason.)
Started for the sea late in the morning of Wednesday, the
27th. Stopped at a swampy place in the mangroves, in the aft-
ernoon, and bade the crew eat a hearty meal ; for I could have
no cooking in the boat the next day for them ; and, as for my-
self, I would be eating nothing on the sea, because of nausea.
Emerged into Xazareth Bay, at 5 p. m., and, with a favorable
wind, sped across it, and out to sea. Then, I took the rudder,
while the crew gorged themselves with their last meal. Oc-
casionally, the lookout being neglectful, we got into breakers.
Kongolo and Aveya, who were accustomed to the sea, took turns
all night in holding the rudder, while I dozed at intervals. There
was a fine, strong, favorable wind, and moonlight, by which to
see the way.
By the Thursday morning, we were still going rapidly, with
all the wind our sail could bear. By noon, the water became
rough, and I feared the points at the mouth of the Gaboon;
but, we rounded them comfortably. The wind then became light,
as we crossed the estuary: and landed by 4 p. m. near the Eng-
lish house of H. & C. Mr. Travis, belonging to that house in the
Ogowe, was there, and met us on the beach, and welcomed us.
224 MY OGOWE
The Baraka schoolgirls, and Mr. Reading's four schoolboys
greeted us warmly. I was lodged at Mrs. Bushnell's; and found
a loving mail awaiting me from America.
On Sunday, July i, there was Communion in the Baraka
church. I preached for Dr. Bushnell. Three infants were bap-
tized. Dogs in the church interfered with the solemnity of the
occasion. The man. Xgeza. trader in the Ogowe, who had been
excommunicated for his trading in rum, was restored. In the
evening there was a pleasant monthly concert on missions.
The semi-annual meetings of presbytery and mission were to
be held at Benita. Dr. Bushnell and I took passage on the cutter
Hudson, in the morning of Monday, the 2(1. anchoring by 7 p.
m., at Elongro Station, Corisco Island, to take on board Rev. C.
De Heer. The journey was continued all night. And, by 8
a. M. of the 3d, we were at Bolondo. (Greeted by my sister and
Miss Dewsnap. My sister was not looking well. At presbytery
meeting in the evening, two candidates for the ministry were ex-
amined. Frank Myongo and D. L. Petiye. [The former is to-
day the Rev. F. S. Myongo ; Petiye reached licensure, and then
turned aside.] People from the Upwanjo villages, near my
old station, Mbade. came to complain about the cattle there tres-
passing on their gardens. The cattle were not mine. T had in-
deed introduced them for their milk for my child in r868. agree-
ing with Upwanjo that T should pay damages. And. Mr.
Menkel living at Mbade. had continued to keep the animals with-
out paying for damages. A dav-school was continued to be held
there under a native teacher Uhemba ; and the church was still
there, under my protege licentiate Itongolo, with Rev. Mr. Ibiya,
of Mbangwe on Corisco Bay. as moderator of session. He
found it inconvenient to make the quarterly journey, and pro-
posed removing to Benita.
The Hudson left on the night of the 4th, with Messrs. De I leer
and Bushnell; and it was to return promptly for me. It being
the Fourth of July. T attempted a patriotic demonstration with a
few of my well-kept firecrackers. One of them landed on the
thatch roof of the dwelling-house: and, for a short time, there
was a fire alarm. There were many things to occupy me, while
waiting for the return of the Hudson. 1 was stated clerk of
presbytery, and had to write up the minutes. There were
visits from my former Kombe friends. There were sacred
graves at the cemetery that 1 visited and put in order. There
was help I could give the two ladies against rapacious claims
on some of their pupils, by selfish men. There was the boxing
AT THE KANGWE HUT 225
of some baggage of my sister, who was going with me to Libre-
ville. The Hudson was a very slow sailer. And, Mr. Menkel
was notably unreliable in fulfillment of engagements; he had also
a distressing temper, that flew into violent anger, on the slightest
provocation, or even on a suspicion. His outbursts were directed
mostly against myself, as I was the one who oftenest traveled
with him. (This unfortunate trait grew with him, to the end of
his life.)
I occupied the Benita pulpit for three Sundays. Finally, the
Hudson came. And. with my sister, we started southward on
the vessel, at midnight of July 22. It was very heavily laden, and
had an unusual list of passengers and crew (twenty- four).
Traveling day and night, we reached Corisco Island by 4 p. m.
of Tuesday, the 24th, Mr. De Heer's boat came off to us. and
landed my sister, who was very weak and sick.
The next day we rested at Elongo Station. And. on Thurs-
day, the 26th, resumed the journey ; and landed at Libreville by
4 P. M. of Saturday the 28th. My sister seemed refreshed, and
was able to walk from the beach to Baraka. Six days for a voy-
age of ninety miles! The Hudson, in its painful slowness, had
constantly to tack, being unable to face the prevailing winds,
s. w. and s. e., which were stronger during dry season (June-
September) than in any other months of the year.
JOURNEY BACK TO THE OGOWE.
On Wednesday, August 1, with a big load of supplies, and
my two crews. I started on the Hudson, to reach the Ogowe
mouth, having in tow my native boat, Caritas. The run was only
seventy miles. But. it became distressing: what we gained on
one tack, we lost on the next. Day and night, Wednesday,
Thursday. Friday, Saturday and Sunday ! I was so weary with
the seasickness ; and food was becoming short for my large num-
ber of people. Sunday night, we anchored, being near Sanga-
tanga. and waited for the opposing wind to die down. As
there was little prospect of that. I determined to abandon the
vessel, and take to my boat. I believed that my double crew,
with paddles, could certainly reach the mouth and ascend the
thirty miles up-river to Angala, where 1 had left the Xclly-
Hozcard, with which I would return for the remainder of my
goods, by the time that the slow Hudson should finally reach
Xazareth Bay.
So, at 2 a. m. of Monday August 6. I loaded the Caritas; and.
with ten of my people, left the vessel's side: rowed all day, and
226 MY OGOWE
all the next night, stopping occasionally for food and rest; and
reached Angala at 5 a. m. of the 7th. There I found lying the
German schooner Wm. Johnson, with its captain Miller and Mr.
Lubcke, and his little steamer. They gave me a comfortable
lunch. And, after my crews had rested, I took a portion of
them that same day. in the Nelly-Hozcard down-river. Emerged
at the mouth about 4 p. m.. and found that my calculations were
correct. The Hudson had arrived only a few hours before!
The next morning, Wednesday August 8, by daylight, I loaded
the boat. The Hudson immediately left, to return to Libreville ;
and. I for Angala again; which I reached about 4 p. m.
I had brought with me several young men, church members,
from Benita. They were educated, and would be helpful ; they
spoke English freely, and would be companionable ; they were
Christians, and could assist me in religious services. They and
I spoke Benga ; and, also, they had some smattering of Mpongwe.
of which I had not yet acquired enough to easily conduct a preach-
ing service. I was exceedingly hurt that evening, when T asked
one of them, Charles Makanga. to assist me in the meeting. He
positively refused to take any part. I never got over the pain-
ful impression. It interfered in my subsequent relations with
him; he soon returned to Benita. And. though he was subse-
quently honored and valued in the church there, and T met him
occasionally in presbytery. I could not forget how he utterly
failed me in a time of need.
T was hospitably entertained on board the Wm. Johnson,
looked over pictures in German newspajxrs, and slept on the
vessel. With a company of twelve in my two boats. I left
Angala on Thursday. August 9; on the way. buying plenty of
farinya, plantains, fish, and turtles, from Chief Onanga at
Xombi. And. slept in the boat that night at Xango.
On the Eriday. for the first time, used the Nclly-Hozvard's sail,
during the afternoon. Stopped early at the deserted trading-
house, near King Xjagu's town of Xdogo; and again slept in
the boat.
The next day. T allowed the Caritas to go on ahead to
Xgumbe. while 1 stopped at Yambc. to see my friend Mwanji-
nkombe. And. we spent the night at Xgumbe. the half-way
post from the river's mouth to Kangwe. On the Sunday, f I
held services, both morning and evening; only a few came.
Tsagi himself was a great heathen. Tn a small hut in the town,
he had a large idol. Much of the clay I spent in the boat, reading.
The next day. we proceeded, stopping on the way at Avanga
AT THE KANGWE HUT 227
Island, where I met one of Mr. Travis' Nkami workmen ; to
Ashuka, and bought udika and fish ; to the Ivili town of the head-
man Re-Teno, where they had plenty of elephant meat. And, by
sundown, to Igenja. The mother of Ntyindiorema was fran-
tically glad to see him again. The next day I claimed the goat
which Ombya-ogwana had given, on my way down-river two
months before. Then, exchanges of gifts, with the mothers
of my best employees, Mamba, Abumba, and Angeka. And,
then resumed the journey, on the way stopping at the village of
Awora's father ; and at friend Azaze's, to salute him, but, found
that there was smallpox there. On to Oranga, and bought a
quantity of plantains. Thence, to a camp in the forest near
Aromba. The scene was romantic, with the shadows of night
and the light of blazing fires of my crews cooking their food.
Such scenes appealed to my spirit of adventure, and gratified the
soldier idea which I had always carried with me.
The next day. Wednesday, a canoe of Nkami people joined
us. The three crafts made company, and stimulated each other
in their speed. Stopped at Ginigo for our noon meal. The joy
of the mothers of Onganga and Mpenge was almost pathetic.
People came from Wombalya to sell fruits and plantains.
There were increasing reports of smallpox. On, into the Ozu-
gavizya Creek, with the difficult working around its sand-
banks. Lest there might be smallpox at Ntyuwa-guma, T did
not go to it. but, stopped in the forest near by. for the night.
The next day. August 16. emerged into the Kangwe branch
of the river, and enjoyed a fine distant view of the Hill. There
were vociferous salutations as we passed Atangina. And. at
Kangwe by 10 a. m. The young men, whom I had left in charge,
welcomed us witli shouts and a discharge of guns. I found
everything safe and well, and Ayenwe gave me a correct ac-
count of the goods I had left with him. I gave rewards to him
and the six others I had left as his assistants, for their faithful
service. But, one of them, Ogula, was jealous of Ayenwe, be-
cause I had given the latter more !
Re-Nkombe came next day, to welcome me. with a quantity
of ground-nuts and a sheep. To commemorate the occasion, I
planted a number of coco-nuts. [They are growing there to-
day!]
On Sunday, the 19th, being without an interpreter. I held only
a short morning service ; for. as yet, I felt that I had not ac-
quired Mpongwe sufficiently. I knew it, for ordinary daily con-
versation with my people, but not for preaching. At afternoon
228 MY OGOWE
Sabbath school, I had the Kombe young men as teachers ;
" Samuel " (Mbara) and carpenter Metyeba, for those who were
beginning the alphabet; Ingumu (who had been with me at
Kasa's), for two who under my care had learned to read; and,
Charles Makanga with a class in the catechism. My frequent
enjoyment in the evenings, especially on Sundays, was singing.
I was busy the following days, pushing the work on the new
house. But, on the 26th, Ompwenge had symptoms which I
thought might be of smallpox. So. that he might be cared for
by his own family, I sent him in a canoe with two of his own
towns-people, Angeka and Bayio, to his home at Igenja.
While T always gave gifts for kindness done or services ren-
dered, T was much annoyed, and sometimes angered, at people,
whom T did not even know, coming as beggars.
About that time came into my acquaintance a young Mpongwe
man. with whom T had much to do, in my subsequent Ogowe
years, viz. " Samuel Marshall," or Laseni, a very intelligent man,
a former pupil in our Baraka school, and, at one time a member
of the church. He was trading for TT. & C. in the Ogowe. Of
course, his trading with rum. even if he did not drink it. broke
his church membership.
T was studying Mpongwe very diligently: for. in my imperfect
knowledge of it. I found myself making mistakes. On the 28th,
my good friend. Azizya, Re-Xkombe's sister, came to sell me
yams. In paying her. I understood her to say that I " cheated "
her. Tn my indignation. T gave back some ngwese she had pre-
sented me. refused to buy from her at all, and dismissed her.
Tn the evening, in the usual around-the-fire conversation with my
household, T found that 1 had mistaken the meaning of A/.izva's
word. I was very sorry at my mistake, and for the very in-
justice to a woman who had been (and continued tn be) a help-
ful friend. 1 rectified it to her on another day.
On Friday the 31st. Angeka and Bayio returned, accompanied
by Awora. They had left Ompwenge sick, but not with small-
pox.
For the usual Saturday afternoon village itineration, on Sep-
tember r. I went to the town of Chief Magisi, near Aguma. al-
though I was told there was smallpox there. T had met with
it so often, that I began to feel myself immune, especially in the
errand on which 1 was going. On such errands, one might take
up a serpent, unharmed.
On Sunday, 1 spoke in Mpongwe. without an interpreter, hut
with much hesitation. After the service, Sambunaga came to
AT THE KANGWE HUT 229
say that my words had " brought light to his heart," and he de-
sired to be enrolled as an inquirer. After that there was no
more need of an interpreter. I was hasting to get the new
house under its thatch roof; for, I was alarmed by occasional
distant thunder; and the rains would be expected by the last of
the month.
The Saturday itineration of the 8th was to Sonye's village in
Eyenano. And, thence to the German house, to call on Mr.
Lubcke. He was absent, but, he had a guest, a German scien-
tist, who had come to hunt gorillas. That interested me.
On Sunday the 9th, I had the satisfaction of feeling that I had
" acquired " Mpongwe ; for, I spoke in it with much more
freedom than hitherto.
The next, the 10th, was a busy day on the roof of the new
house. But, all the while I was thinking of the little boat at sea
in Corisco Bay on the night of September 10, 1870.
After the village service on the 15th, I went to Aguma.
There, I met Mr. Woodward, who had returned from the
Ngunye. He had ascended, beyond the Samba Falls, to the
Ashira country, where Du Chaillu had traveled (entering from
the coast). Mr. Woodward told me that the " Eugenie Falls"
were not a distinct cataract, but were spread over a distance of
thirty or forty miles, including a number of cascades.
In the village service of the 22d. I went to Pinja's. But. two
men were there so drunk and disorderly, that I stopped speak-
ing and abruptly left the village.
Aveya had been with me since my first entry into the Ogowe.
and was a valuable workman. But. he had become so irregular,
making visits to his home on slight pretects. that, when he re-
turned on Thursday the 27th. my patience was exhausted, and I
told him I would no longer employ him. He replied that, rather
than that he should leave me, I should throw him into the
river. I allowed him to remain, to work out a debt of a dollar
he owed me. Besides my Sunday religious services, I regularly
began and closed each day with public prayers with my house-
hold, but gave no instruction in connection therewith. On that
day I instituted a weekly Thursday night prayer meeting, giving
a Bible lesson. The first lesson was on 2 Kings 6, 8 ; Elisha at
Dothan. At night, the rainy season began ! Such splendid
rain, and magnificent thunder, and brilliant lightning!
On Friday morning, the 28th. I heard that my canoe was lost
from the Igolino (Nkami) hut. Shortly afterwards, I heard
that a woman at Atangina had it. When we began the day's
230 MY OGOWE
work on my house, Anyigei of Atangina, brought word that
Ambangila, the woman's husband, hesitated to give up the canoe.
This man I knew as an unpleasant, bold fellow. I thought :
If the canoe was stolen, Re-Nkombc could not fail to recognize
it as mine, and should at once have sent it to me. If it had been
picked up. as a derelict, 1 knew the native custom that allowed it
to be held for a reward. But. it seemed to me, that, under my
professed relations with Re-Nkombe, he should have at once sent
to me, knowing that a reward would be given. At noon, T sent
word to him, asking why my property was being detained. In-
stead of promptly forwarding the canoe, he replied that he
would come next day to talk about it. This seemed to show a
disposition to assent to my canoe's capture. In the afternoon,
Ambangila stopped at the Igolino hut, and threatened tight.
- While we were at work at the house, next morning, the 29th, he,
accompanied by Oguma. came professedly very friendly to me,
and said that the canoe was detained only in anger at my people,
who, he stated, had said that he had " stolen " it. I declined to
talk with him at that busy time; but, told him that I would listen
to what he had to say, at our noon rest hour. At which time, he
did not return. The affair began to look badly. But, I took
the high position, that they were not ignorant Bakele; they knew
what was right; they knew my right; and. if they chose to take
the position of thieves, they might keep the canoe; I would not
beg for it. I could boycott their town. I went, on my usual Sat-
urday afternoon preaching, to the Eyenano villages, and had a
good meeting. For a wonder, those two young men were there,
very attentive, and helpful in keeping others quiet ! Then, I
went on errands; to see Mr. Lubcke; and to Aguma. And, on
my return to Kangwe, Ambangila came and made his talk; and
finally said that he would give up the canoe. On Sunday, the
30th. I felt depressed at what was beginning to be a very unjust
and insulting trouble. But, I succeeded in putting away the
thought of it; and, for the first time in my use of Mpongwe, I
felt free enough to write a skeleton of what T intended to say.
There were twenty-seven people present; and a large Sabbath
school in the afternoon. There was a small tornado wind in the
evening; the first of the season. T felt somewhat anxious as to
my new house on the hillside, whether, in its incomplete state, it
would bear the strain.
The work and anxieties were making me feverish. And, an
ulcer on my leg was growing worse. No canoe came on the Mon-
day, October 1. I felt that the Atangina people were using me
AT THE KANGWE HUT 231
badly. So, I refused to give employment or make purchases
from any of that town. For several days, I confined myself to
the completion of the house, when not interfered with by the
frequent rains. I was getting it ready for the expected coming
of my sister. That she might have fresh milk, I had bought a
goat. One of those rainy nights, it bore two kids ; in the morn-
ing, one was dead, and the other died soon, from exposure. I
could not hope that the goat would remain in milk without her
kids.
I had been pushing work on the hill house, to have it ready
for the expected arrival of my sister. When I had left her at
Libreville in August, it was probable that she would transfer her
teaching work from Benita to the Ogowe. The conditions at
Benita had become very trying to her. Rev. and Mrs. De Heer
were expected to remove from Corsico Island to take charge of
Benita; and the island thenceforward was passed into the care of
Rev. Mr. Ibiya, who, for that purpose removed from Mbangwe
on the Bay. With me, my sister knew that she would have less
restriction. And, I was glad at the prospect of a lady to pre-
side over my house.
On the next Saturday, October 6, I went in my boat to
Atangina, to hold the usual village meeting. At its close, Re-
Nkombe wished to talk " palaver " about the canoe. But I
refused to speak of it, as I had come for the sole purpose of
preaching. He wanted to be very friendly; as if the matter of
the canoe was nothing between us.
The following day, Sunday, there was a good service, notwith-
standing a rainy time. I was made glad by Piere and Ake-
ndenge saying that when they had come to work with me, it was
not simply for pay, but that " they wanted to turn their hearts to
Our Father." At Sabbath school, the little room was crowded.
A number of people came as far as from Ada.linana.nga.
On the following Friday, the 12th, Re-Nkombe came to sell me
thatch (which I needed badly) and one of his people, Igamba,
wanted to be allowed to return to work. I rebuked Re-Nkombe,
as if he was a thief. It had been his duty to see law and order
kept, about my canoe, which, at that late day, I did not hesitate
to say was being stolen. Next morning, Saturday 13, he and
Ambangila brought it. In my indignation at its long detention,
I refused to receive it, and told them that they could keep it, and
it be theirs. They begged me to take it. saying that they were
returning stolen property. So, I took it, and offered to Amba-
ngila a dollar, the usual reward. He then refused it, saying that
23-' MY OGOWE
lie was returning' the canoe, as a friend. So, I tore up the dollar,
saying that I saw no friendship in the whole matter. On that
afternoon, I went to Aguma on an errand. And, lo! while
there, the Pioneer arrived, with my sister under escort of Rev.
Dr. Bushnell! T was busy landing her goods at Kangwe until
late at night. On the Sunday, Dr. Bushnell preached in the new
house. Many people were present, to see the first white woman
who had entered the Ogowe. On the Monday. I went with Dr.
Bushnell, to call at the German house; and we took the 1 1 a. m.
breakfast at the English house. And, was busy all the after-
noon, carrying boxes and baggage up the Kangwe Hill. Im-
pressed, doubtless, by all this increased importance of his
Kangwe white " friend," Re-Xkombe came in the afternoon, pre-
senting me with a goat, and asking pardon for the canoe trouble.
I would not accept the goat, lest he should think that I had can-
celed his wrong. But, I told him that I considered the matter
settled. We remained friends; but. I gave him a different status
from what I had formerly accorded him.
On Tuesday, October 16, I took Dr. Bushnell up the river, to
the Inenga tribe, to visit King Ra-Xoki. As Dr. Bushnell was
most fluent in the use of Mpongwe, he and the king had an in-
teresting chat. Returning, we ate supper at Aguma. And, I left
Dr. Bushnell there for the night, that he be ready for an early
start back to Gaboon on the Pioneer earlv next morning.
CHAPTER XVIII
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE, OCTOBER, 1877-JANUARY, l88o
MY removal from the hut to my house on the hillside on
October 25, was marked by a visit from King Ra-Noki
and his retinue, who came to call on sister and myself,
bringing quite a present of fowls and plantains.
And, at the following Saturday afternoon meetings in Ata-
ngina and a Fan we village, sister went with me, and was quite an
object of attention.
On the following Tuesday, I took her on a return visit to King
Ra-Xoki at Inenga. We had a very interesting time. The next
day. I was called to the German house (called "Otanga"), to
prescribe for Mr. Detmering, who was sick. On that day, I
again missed my canoe, and supposed it to be stolen. On suc-
cessive days, I missed both my dogs. Brownie and Bravo, but
did not know whether they were stolen, or killed by a leopard ;
probably the latter. For, early in November, leopards became
numerous and destructive. They killed both of my goats.
Lest my sheep should go in that way, I killed it myself, for a
feast, to which I invited Messrs. Travis and Woodward. Under
my sister's supervision, I was able to make an ample spread,
which, I think, my visitors enjoyed.
In my sister's coming to the Ogowe. some of her Benita pupils
followed her, to continue their studies under her instruction.
The five who had come with me, for work, rejoined her class.
And, on November 9, came the Pioneer, bringing candidate Ko-
ngolo back to the Ogowe, for that purpose. This added to
our civilized company on the Hill. Also, there came into the
river a newly married Mpongwe couple, who, I hoped would be a
help to the civilization and Christianity of the Ogowe, the man
Laseni (" Samuel Marshall ") and his wife, Ngwa-njanga
( " Alida Booth "). They were both well-educated ; and she was
still a church member. [But. their lives became marred. He
divorced her; and she sank disgracefully. For years, he never
returned to the church, though he always held himself as an hon-
orable, polite man. They are both living: and. at this present
writing, are again attending church.]
233
234 MY OGOWE
I observed, in visiting the villages, a singular custom, viz., that
of cutting the toes of chickens, as private marks of owner-
ship.
I was much encouraged by the progress of educational work.
My building operations and frequent journeys had prevented my
attempting anything in that line, except informal efforts in even-
ings. But, as my sister gave her whole time to that one work,
her pupils had the satisfaction of knowing that they were daily
growing in knowledge.
On a visit to my friend Wombeni at Ajumba, on November
21, I brought back a little girl Awora. sister of Ogula, as a
nucleus of a girls' school.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
As sister wished to see Belambla, the site of so many of my
hopes and of much of my disappointments. 1 took her, on Novem-
ber 28, on an excursion thither, which, while, like all my jour-
neys, would have a religious object. I intended to make attractive
to her as an outing. It was a favorable part of the season,
whose rains were become less frequent. Our meal in the
forest was made picnic-like. And, on the stop for the night at
Anyambe-jena's, she was given his largest hut. She was a great
object for the curiosity of the people. So great that they could
not keep quiet at services that evening nor next morning. On
the way to Belambla was met a Moating corpse. 'The sight, not
rare to me, was a shock to her. I knew that in some parts of
the river, the dead, if with but few relatives, and especially
slaves, were not buried, but cast into the river. Arrived at Be-
lambla. my friend Disingwe welcomed me; and women, of
course, came to see the white woman. Her taste suggested im-
provements ; and we spent the next day in digging up stumps,
and in planing some boards for the porch of the house that had
not been entirely completed at the time of the robbery. Now
that 1 was away from the place, and had no need for retaining
its extensive premises, it was unavoidable that people would
come to occupy parts of it. I heard that the man Walinja, of
whom I did not approve, was about to settle on a certain part. If
1 could not prevent the land being occupied. T wished at least to
choose who the settler should be. T called Disingwe, and gave
him permission, and forbade Walinja. (The latter, however
chose another spot, also on the premises; and there was no au-
thority to whom to appeal to prevent him.) The excursion
proved too much for my sister's strength. When we reached
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 235
Kangwe on December 1, she had a headache too bad for her
to walk up its steep side; and was carried in a hammock.
The desire for education had so grown, that all the employees
were on half -day work, the other half being spent in school,, ex-
cepting by two who were assistants to my carpenters Ingumu
and Metyeba (who, of course, I kept busy all day). All this
was very gratifying to me. The only lazy and troublesome one
was Mbara.
So helpful was the companionship of my sister, that I began
to neglect to make daily entries in my diary. When formerly I
had been alone, it was a companion to me.
It was strange that, neglectful as the people were of cases of
smallpox, the disease was not more prevalent. Going with sis-
ter on December 8, on my Saturday visitation, to Atangina, I
found a man, a guest from the interior Okanda tribe, lying in the
public street sick, covered with the eruption.
I had often maintained that any painting' should be so realistic
that one could know what it represented, even if the title was not
written on it. I had an interesting test on this subject. A pic-
ture was sent me from the United States, entitled, " The Forced
Prayer." A child was kneeling by his parent, in the attitude of
prayer, but his face was unhappy. I showed the picture to sev-
eral of the school. As they could not read English, the printed
title did not inform them, and I asked them what they thought
the picture represented. They promptly said that the child was
praying. " But," I said, " look closely at the boy ; are you sure
he is praying? " " Yes," they said, " but, he does not wish to."
I was exceedingly pleased. Those lads had no education as
" artists " ; but, they understood nature. I considered their
judgment quite a compliment to the author of the picture.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
I was making preparations for the semi-annual journey, by
boat, to Gaboon, for the meetings of mission and presbytery.
Previous to that, however, I was to go to Belambla on December
21, to see that it would be all safe during my long absence at the
coast. The boat- journey up-river was pleasant. But, the visit
was made very uncomfortable by finding that the man Walinja
had taken part of the premises, and built his village there.
Three men. my professed friends, Jongane, Disingwe, and
Ondene, to whom I appealed as authorities to compel him to
leave, only weakly upheld me. I believed that, like Kasa, they
236 MY OGOWE
were deceiving me. I felt more than ever justified in having
left the Bakele. as an unworthy people; and intimated to them,
that, as I had gone away because of their stealing my goods, if
they continued to steal my land, 1 might remove even my house.
1 did not feel at all like " Christmas." on December 25, and,
with very little satisfaction, left the few people who came to say
good-by. I hasted down-river to meet the Pioneer, which, on the
way. I heard was at Aguma. Arrived there, T found that Mr.
Sinclair, who had been in charge of the Aguma house when I
first entered the river in 1874, and who had been on his fur-
lough in Scotland, had returned, again in charge. I was kindly
invited to remain for evening dinner, with the other white men
who had gathered to welcome Mr. Sinclair, but, I hasted to
Kangwe to reach my mail, which had already been sent thither.
Everything was in good order; and Metyeba had done well
bis carpenter work on the porch. My expectation had been to
go by boat to the mouth of the river; and, as usual, the Hudson
had been notified to meet me there on a certain date. But, the
unexpected coming of the Pioneer gave a safe and quicker route
for my sister. So. the next day. T hurried with the monthly pay-
ments to my people, and arrangements for care of the premises
during my absence, and packing of boxes, etc.. of our luggage.
And. on Thursday. December 27. we all were up early, going
rapidly with the loaded boat to Aguma so as not to detain the
Pioneer, at whatever hour she would be ready.
JOURNEY TO GABOON BY " PIONEER."
The journey down-river by steamer was certainly more com-
fortable, as well as more rapid, than by boat. We were pleas-
antly hailed as we passed various villages. Ginigo, and Xgnmbe;
and anchored for the night near Oriwa-ombe's. The village street
was under water; for. the river was higher than it had been
known for four years. That day, as we were passing Igenja,
the captain had kindly slowed to take on board three of my people
who bad been awaiting me there, as a crew: for. I had my boat
in tow. to be left at the river mouth, for my return.
As the steamer stopped at Angala for wood, my sister went
ashore, to see the place. That night, we anchored at sea, some
ten miles from the river mouth.
Xext morning, we saw the Hudson, at anchor, far ahead.
The captain steamed toward her; and I called to Mr. Menkel, to
turn back to Libreville. We arrived there that Saturday after-
noon: and, on going to Baraka. were met by Rev. Messrs. Bush-
OX THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 237
nell, De Heer, and Murphy, and a Mr. Jackson. Mr. Murphy
had been my successor in 1871 at Benita; had returned to the
United States, and resigned from the Mission in 1874. And,
now, for a special emergency that Dr. Bushnell might take a fur-
lough, had offered to come back to the Mission on a two years'
contract, at Gaboon station. Mr. Jackson was from Detroit,
sent as American consul, to the Kongo.
The opening session of mission meeting was held on Mon-
day, December 31. In the afternoon, I went to the Plateau, to
ask the French doctor for treatment of an ulcer on my leg that
had remained unhealed for many weeks.
The New Year's Day of 1878 was not a happy one; for, I
was sitting, nursing my leg. Late in the afternoon, the French
commandant, accompanied by the doctor, came to pay a call of
official courtesy on our Mission.
January 2, was an exciting day. The man Schorsch, who, in
1875 na d been recalled by the Board from membership in our
Mission, had gone to the United States. There, he had aroused
sympathy among some friends of missions. He was only a
mono-maniac: sane on all topics except that of his ownership of
the African mission. His assumed extreme humility, and his
tale of " wrongs " ( ?) to which he had been subjected by his
mission associates, had induced those unwise sympathisers to send
him back to Africa, as an independent missionary! He was
now in Libreville. In our meeting, we discussed what we
should do to keep him from us. as we heard that he was already
making his crazy claims. We drew up a petition to the French
commandant, asking for his interference against Schorsch's mak-
ing attempts to come on our premises. While we were thus
consulting. Schorsch came to the front door. I objected to
his entering : but, he forced his way in. I had the most reasons
in objecting: for, my sister at Benita. and myself in the Ogowe
were the two members of the Mission who had suffered most
from him. He went away. And then sent up to the house, a
portion of his baggage, which I ordered the bearer not to bring
into the house. Presently, two more carriers came with
another box : which also I ordered them not to place in the
house, but to take back to Schorsch. who was staying at Mr.
Wolber's. the agent of the German house. Presently, Schorsch
himself again came, and demanded why I so ordered. I told
him that he had no right in our Mission, to house, or bed. or
board. He shook his fist in my face, and said that he had
more right than I ; that he was moderator of presbytery, and
238 MY OGOW'E
would show me his power. (This was his crazy idea; he had no
office nor any connection with the Mission, though still, formally,
a member of presbytery.) He then ordered his carriers to bring
his box into the house. I called to Mr. Murphy for assistance,
who threatened the men with the police if they attempted to
enter. So. Schorsch and his men left. The men returned to
Mr. Wolber's ; but Schorsch went to Dr. BushnelFs. where Mr.
Murphy followed, and ordered him to leave the' premises. He
left. In the afternoon, Messrs. Bushnell, De Heer, Murphy and
I all went to the Plateau, and presented our petition to the com-
mandant, who assured us that Mr. Schorsch should not be al-
lowed to come on our premises. The next day, Schorsch sent us
a letter containing a copy of the prohibition which the comman-
dant had sent to him, and asked us to reconsider it. He de-
nounced our petition, and threatened us with personal injury if
we did not yield. We returned his letter without a reply. Tn
the evening, the commandant came, and showed to us an insult-
ing letter he had received from Schorsch. He said that if Mr.
Schorsch persisted in his strange conduct, lie would have him ar-
rested and deported.
On January 5, I had my photograph taken by a Sierra Leone
native, Joaque. Mr. Schorsch had attempted to go to Corisco,
in Mr. De Heer's boat.
On Sunday, the nth, T was sick in bed. unable to rise. I had
promised to assist Dr. Bushnell in the church services. There
was Communion in the afternoon ; but, T could not attend. T
felt better in the evening, and was able to sit up. Mr. Jackson
sat with me. My special interest went out to him, as he was not
a Christian. The household were very attentive to my needs:
one of the larger schoolgirls. Xjivo by name, was particularly
so. 1 mention her especially: for she appeared very often in
my Ogowe life. She was a Christian, educated, a lady, most
attractive as a companion, and devoted as a friend.
Monday. January 7, was a day of confusion. There was
haste in getting my sister ready to go next day on the Hudson
to Benita for the remainder of her goods. A meeting of the
presbytery was held in the evening. Rev. Mr. Murphy was re-
ceived: and the name of Mr. Schorsch was dropped. Sister's
pupil, Frank S. Myongo. was examined and licensed. The
ceremony was very interesting. Sister was very much gratified.
But. the excitement wearied her: for. she had not been well since
her sickness at Kangwe. Sick as she was next dav. she was
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 239
carried to the beach, and was placed on the Hudson, in company
with twelve of the Kombe young men.
Meetings of presbytery and mission continued. Elder Ito-
ngolo, though he was my especial protege, had been so influenced
by Mr. Schorsch's excessive protestations of affection and his
pleadings that he " was the only missionary who loved his Afri-
can brothers," that he changed his vote on the question of
dropping the name of Mr. Schorsch. Even Rev. Mr. Ibiya had
had his sympathies appealed to, and was on the point of changing
his vote, but did not. [Later on. Mr. Ibiya, at his own table, on
Corisco, had to defend himself from assault by Mr. Schorsch,
who attacked him with a knife.] The doctor had to come to
examine my leg again, and changed his treatment, tying a thin
sheet of lead over the ulcer.
On the 9th. presbytery adjourned. As stated clerk. I had
much writing of minutes.
On evening of the 10th, I was able to conduct the service
of the day of the week of prayer. Subject, " Prayer for Govern-
ments." I spent the evening with my friend Mr. Murphy. We
prayed for our children in the United States.
Xext day, the doctor was again sent for about my leg. The
examination was unsatisfactory, as we could not understand
each other. Afterward, when I wrote a note by him to Mr.
Jobet, agent of H. & C. (who was a Frenchman, but who knew
English well) asking him to explain to the doctor, the latter
did not understand what I wanted to have explained.
On the evening of the next day. Miss Dewsnap was taken
very ill with fever; we feared it might be fatal. I watched with
her in the evening: and Mrs. Bushnell arranged with the native
schoolmatron to stay with her all night.
On Sunday, January 13, the doctor came early to see Miss
Dewsnap, whose symptoms were bad. His treatment had not
much helped my ulcerated leg, which was painful when I walked.
Dr. Bushnell always shared the Baraka pulpit with any minis-
terial visitor. I preached (in English) in the morning, from
Judges 5, 23, " Curse ye Meroz." There were at least ten
white men present, from the trading-houses. Afterward, I en-
joyed singing with Mr. Murphy. In the afternoon, I attended
Sunday school, to teach Miss Dewsnap's class. Later, had more
music, singing with Mr. Murphy and Consul Jackson. Mr.
Murphy preached in the evening. Received word on January
1;. that the commandant will not allow Mr. Schorsch (who had
2 4 o MY OGOWE
gone to either Corisco or Elobi) to land in Libreville, if he
should attempt to return. Consul Jackson was away all day,
hunting.
Early on the 17th, a mail-steamer was seen entering the
estuary. From Baraka hill, vessels could be seen at an hour's
distance ; and thus we always had time to prepare for them.
After breakfast. Messrs. Bushnell, Murphy, Jackson and I all
went off in two boats to the steamer ; for, we were expecting
a number of arrivals and their baggage. On the vessel were
two returning missionaries, Mrs. Jane Lush Smith and Miss
Lydia Jones, and Miss L. B. Walker, a new recruit. There were
also two visitors. Rev. Messrs. Comber and Grenfell, of the
English Baptist Mission at Kamerun. The day was felt to be
a happy one for the Mission.
Next day. the 18th, I was helping those ladies in opening their
boxes ; and in writing letters. In the evening, the Hudson re-
turned from Benita, with good news from my sister.
The next day, I assisted Mrs. Smith in her arrangements ;
and, in company with Mr. Murphy, visited Miss Dewsnap's sick-
room ; she was recovering. Had a long talk with Miss Jones,
about Benita affairs. Consul Jackson was still waiting for a
steamer going as far south as the Kongo.
On Sunday the 20th. T preached in the morning. Mrs. Smith
made a pleasant innovation, viz.. of placing flowers on the pulpit
in two vases which she had brought from the United States.
Sang with the ladies in the afternoon. Miss Walker sang well.
Mr. Murphy preached in the evening. Xext day. the Hudson
was gotten read}- to return with Miss Dewsnap for her work at
Benita : and. she sailed in the late afternoon.
The Pioneer, for whose arrival T had been anxiously waiting,
in order to return to my Ogowc work, entered the estuary, in
the afternoon of the jjd. The commandant, doctor, and a
lieutenant came to call on the ladies: who gave them a treat,
rare in our part of Africa, of candy, walnuts, and chestnuts,
which Miss Jones had brought from the United States.
On the 23d. T was busy getting together my last things from
the storehouse: packing; and closing letters. In Libreville was
living an American negro woman, who had married, in the
United States, a certain educated Mpongwe man. " Boardman."
whom Dr. Bushnell had taken with him. as assistant in trans-
lations, on one of his furloughs. Boardman belonged to a
prominent native family. An American reporter got hold of
him, and wrote an account of the marriage, under the heading.
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 241
" Prince and Peasant." When Mr. and Mrs. Boardman re-
turned to Africa, they carried themselves in " princely " style.
Their two children, Augustus and Mary, as they grew up, came
to school ; but were not allowed, by their mother, to do any work.
Augustus had grown to be a tall, handsome, polite, and very in-
telligent young man. I wished to employ him in the Ogowe,
as assistant in translating; and he consented to go. But, on. the
last day, he wrote me a note saying that his mother refused to
allow him to go, unless I permitted him to take with him a per-
sonal slave-servant to do his laundry and to wait on him in
other ways as his valet ! For years, I had had no such serv-
ant to wait on me. Of course, I did not avail myself of " Mr."
Boardman's services. Mr. Murphy suddenly decided to visit
the Ogowe, and examine my work. I was very glad of his com-
pany; and, we boarded the Pioneer early in the morning of the
24th. On the 25th, the vessel was in Nazareth Bay. And,
by 8 p. m., we had reached Angala. There the next day we were
to take on firewood. As the Pioneer was short of hands, I was
pleased to send my crew to assist, especially as, at that time, the
river boats of both firms, English and German, gave me free
transportation. Old King Esongi came on board with much
dignity to get his pay for the firewood. With him came one of
his women to see me, and presented me with two beautifully
ornamented pandanus-leaf mats. Constantly, in my station
and out-station building, I took with me seeds of plants or
young fruit-trees for propagation. I could induce few of the na-
tives to plant for themselves. They thought of the years be-
fore the tree would fruit, and they knew how prone their people
were to abandon a village site and make a new one, on the plea
that the former one was infested with evil spirits. They would
say to me, "Will I be here to eat the fruit?" But, they did
not object to my planting for them. [Much of the fruit now
growing in the Ogowe, is of my planting.] Esongi saw some
young Avocado pear-trees which I was taking to plant at
Kangwe, and he begged for even one ; which I was glad to give.
Took in tow, my Nelly-Howard which T had left in Esongi's
care, in the previous December. Passed ftombi and Nango; and
at night anchored a long distance below Olende Island.
The next night, Sunday, anchored at Ashuka. From there,
I sent three of my people ahead in a canoe, to Igenja, to bring
three others of my employees ; for, the steamer would not be
stopping at Igenja.
However, in passing that place next day. Ombya-ogwana
242 MY OGOWE
came alongside in his canoe, to sell provisions. But the cap-
tain would not allow him to come on hoard, because, on a former
voyage of the Pioneer, when he was pilot, he had deserted.
A new Igenja young man. Re-Xguwa, ran alongside with his
canoe, boarded, and joined my service. Ry night, we had al-
most reached our journey's end. And. early in the morning of
the 29th. we were at anchor at Aguma. and were welcomed
by Messrs. Sinclair, Travis, and Woodward. At Kangwe, the
Kombe man, Ingumu, whom T had left in charge, had done well.
[ found most things in good order, on my making a long in-
spection of the entire premises.
TO BELAMBLA.
Tired as I was, I went the next day, January 30, to Belambla,
to show it to Mr. Murphy. There was need of haste, in order
that he might return to Libreville by the Pioneer. I increased
my weariness by attempting too much. On all my journeys dur-
ing my whole African life. I had no native employee, however
good, on whom I could depend (as on a hotel porter, in civiliza-
tion), if the start had to be made at a very early hour. When
the travel depended on only myself. I did not make early starts.
But, in this case, the movements of the Pioneer governed me.
Wishing to start at 5.30 a. m. meant being awake and pre-
paring the boat by 4.30 a. m. And, fearing that T would over-
sleep myself. T slept so little that T was constantly awaking. Tt
was a poor preparation for the labors of that day. We were at
Aguma by 5.30 a.m.: and there waited until 9 a.m. to 1>e
towed by the Pioneer as far as the mouth of the Xgunye.
up which she was going, while we passed on toward Be-
lambla. stopping for the night at Mvangane's village. We
took Belambla by surprise the next morning, the 31st. The
grounds were not in as good order, under the two Galwa
young men, as they had been when in the care of Ml>ora or
Kongolo. Nevertheless, Mr. Murphy was pleased with the
place, and had no criticism on my original selection of it. But,
Walinja was still holding possession of the portion of the
premises he had stolen. And. the next day. Friday. February
1. just before leaving. \ had another unsatisfactory talk on that
subject with Ondene and others. Instead of returning directly
to Kangwe. T kept on down the left bank of the river to Inenga,
in order that Mr. Murphy might see King Ra-Xoki : by whom
we were well received.
The next dav, Saturday the 2d. besides its being pay-day. T
OX THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 243
was busy writing letters. And, late in the afternoon, I took
them and Mr. Murphy to Aguma, where the Pioneer had re-
turned from the Xgunye. We were entertained at the evening
dinner. And, leaving my friend there for the night, as a passen-
ger on the steamer that was to start early next morning, I re-
turned to Kangwe. At my boat-landing there were such enor-
mous numbers of driver-ants, that it was impossible to stand
among them, and drag the boat, as usual, into its shed. We
could only tie the chain to a post, leaving the boat to injury by
possible waves of a storm, and rush away in agony, our legs
covered with the biting insects. I fully enjoyed the Sunday
rest of the next day. February 3, after my work of rush and
excitement. It would not have been a wonder had I had an at-
tack of fever.
On Monday the 4th. I had a regular house-cleaning, beating
and sweeping the bamboo walls, to have them ready whenever
my sister should return. I planted orange trees. [They are
growing there to-day.] Re-Xkombe made me an official visit.
Desirous that the school should be continued in some form,
even during my absence. I set Ingumu as teacher in the half-day
afternoon. For, his work, as carpenter, was sufficient in the
mornings, the house being now practically completed. It was
a neat, comfortable, and very strong dwelling, 32 feet by 22
feet, elevated on posts from dampness and white ants ; of bam-
boo walls, but with a board floor and ceiling, making a heighth
of a story-and-a-half.
My new little cook attempted bread-making, and failed. But.
the next flay, he succeeded. My friend. Mr. \\ ni. Patten, of
Philadelphia, had sent me a stereoscope, into which the house-
hold enjoyed looking, of evenings.
On February 7, came a note from Mr. Woodward about a
young gorilla, on which I was supposed to have a claim. T went
to him. and helped him set the animal's broken arm. [Later,
that gorilla died ; Mr. Woodward gave it to me ; and, placing it in
a cask of rum, for preservation. I sent it to my friend Thos. G.
Morton. M.D.. of Philadelphia, who placed it in the Academy
of Xatural Sciences; the first entire carcass of a gorilla that
had been sent to the Lnited States.] I went to Otanga (the
German house) where had arrived their large steamer Mpongzvc.
There was there a chimpanzee, " Antoine," so domesticated, and
so devoted to its white master, that when one playfully attempted
to strike that master, the animal would cry out in protest, and
would rush to his defense. A small mail had been brought by the
244 MY OGOWE
Mpongzve. But, it had good news from my friend Mrs. Patten,
of the progress in his studies of my son Charles who was under
her care.
When I went on Saturday the 9th, to my weekly, town preach-
ing, I chose an Akele village of a man Ijuke-jame. Almost all
the men were away; and, the women objected to my landing;
they " feared war." It was a very unusual reception. The ig-
norance of the Bakele people was exceptionally great. I do not
know what " war " they feared ; for, my own mission was al-
ways of peace.
On Sunday, February 10, I was annoyed, hearing the cutting
of trees on the Nkami side of the Hill. I dreaded lest the old
contests for protection of premises that had marred my Belambla
life, were to be repeated at Kangwe. I was told that the of-
fenders were Fafiwe. I sent word for them to depart. Prob-
ably my messengers made my words very strong. The leader
of those Fanwe came to say that they feared I would " make
war" on them. I sent for them: they came; we had a "talk";
they remained to services : and, afterward I showed them pic-
tures. At noon, Mamba, one of my nine inquirers, came to ask
how soon he might be baptized. I was so glad ! While the
nine had said that they wished to become Christians, Mamba
was the first one. during those three-and-a-half years in the
Ogowe. to ask for baptism. Unlike the Roman Catholic priests,
who urged baptism on to utterly ignorant heathen, I never
asked my inquirers to accept the rite. When they were ready
for it. themselves would ask. Also. Agonjo-amwenge came to
enroll himself as an inquirer. As a matter of history. I might
have organized a church at that very time, instead of waiting a
year longer. In the Kamerun portion of the Mission, in later
years, missionaries in the Interior, as soon as they gathered a
few inquirers, have baptized them on their own authority, and
erected them into a church, whose existence they then reported to
the presbytery, taking no notice of the fact of there being a
church already organized within too miles of them. Rut. 1
thought it a more correct ecclesiastical practice to regard Dr.
Rushnell as the " bishop " of the entire Gaboon region, and that
my inquirers were a part of his parish. I took them to the
seaside: and they were there baptized into the membership of
the Benita or Gaboon church (as the case might be). And,
subsequently, when there was some half-dozen of them, the
organization of the first Ogowe church was authorized, on
formal application to presbytery, and these brought their letters
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 245
of dismissal to the new church. As had been done in the case
of the Benita, Bata, and Batanga churches from the original
mother Corisco church.
Though the bounds of the Kangwe premises had been hastily
gone over with Re-Nkombe, at the time of the original purchase
in the fall of 1876, they had never been definitely marked and
mapped. So, though feeling very weak from some chills and
an uncomfortable night, I started out on the nth with four
attendants and a compass. I began at a deserted Akele village
by the mouth of Andende Creek, and hence made an experimental
line with a long curve of an ellipse, back of the Hill, emerging
again on the Ogowe, at a large cotton wood tree just opposite
Atangina. On the way, passed abundance of oil-palm trees,
whose ripe nuts had evidently been recently eaten by some wild
animal; saw the lair of a gorilla; and met some Fanwe, whose
village bordered on the line. In their village, there was mourn-
ing for a woman who had recently died. The head-man of the
village, to save me the long walk back, kindly sent me to my
landing in canoe.
The next day I went over the line again, to definitely mark
trees. And the following day. I sent the workmen to cut a
path all along the line, so that all persons, seeing the path, might
know where the Mission property began.
The ulcer on my leg, from which I had suffered for months,
and which had derived very little benefit from the prescription
of the French doctor at Libreville, was improving under the use
of a patent medicine given me by Mr. Sinclair. I had em-
ployed friend Azaze, down-river at Nandipo, to hunt me a
gorilla. I wished to send the skeleton to my friend Thos. G.
Morton, M.D., of Philadelphia. On the 22d, came three men
from Azaze, with the skin and almost complete skeleton of an
adult male gorilla. I paid them $5.30 for the lot, and subse-
quently sent the skin and bones to Dr. Morton, who presented
them to the Philadelphia Academy of Natural Science.
The next day, Mr. Woodward's little male gorilla died ; and
he gave it to me to add to my collection for Dr. Morton. My
kindness was often imposed on by employees asking leave of
absence, even at times when work was very pressing. The al-
most invariable excuse was that they had to go to visit a sick
relative. The news of the sickness often was shouted by a
passing canoe; sometimes was false: generally, the "sickness"
was an unimportant one. But, in native superstition, the one
who fails promptly to go to the sick bedside of a relative, lays
246 MY OGOWE
himself open to a charge of being the one who lias, by witch-
craft, caused the sickness. All go therefore to the village of
the sick one, to demonstrate by their presence their innocence.
Sometimes, I felt that the " case of sickness " was only a manu-
factured excuse to get away from work, (like the American
clerk w r ho covers his desire to go to a ball game by a plea for
his grandmother's funeral).
Children, in their desire for school, sometimes came to live
on my premises. Later, some parent or other authority would
come and forcibly remove them. Such scenes were trying to me.
I pitied the children ; but, I had to recognize parental authority,
even though I knew that the parent took the child for some work
at his home. So I caused it to be known that no child would
be received into the school who was not formally and personally
placed there by some authority.
On March i, house-building was still going on. The new
house on the hillside was complete for sister and myself. But,
there were needed a schoolhouse, and a better dormitory.
My first acquaintance with the Fanwe did not impress me
favorably. They seemed to think that I was overflowing with
wealth, and that my chief duty in life was to give gifts to those
who begged. I never gave to mere beggars. There came one
day six big lazy fellows carrying only a hatful of kuda-nuts to
sell, and expecting an enormous price. The gathering of that
quantity of nuts had been only a child's work. I was very in-
dignant at them. In the evening. I had an instructive chat with
the household, about the native custom of marriage " dowry."'
Nevertheless I went to the Fanwe village to become better ac-
quainted with them. I went there for the usual Saturday aft-
ernoon meeting on March 2. The village was very dirty: naked
men. women and children were bathing at the landing-place;
fifteen people had died in that village of smallpox, in less than
a month. As I preached, a man, covered with eruption, was
sitting only a rod from me. A young man. whom my sister
had taught a little of the Gospel, added explanatory remarks to
my Mpongwe address: for, I had not yet attempted to learn
any Fan we.
Frequent temporary desertions by my people (apparently not
based on either of the three common grounds of complaint, viz..
work, wages, or food) left me weaker, especially in the matter
of kitchen-help, than T had been for two years. Finally, on
March 6. little cook, Onganga, became so lazy and disobedient
that 1 fined him on his wages. Then, lie attempted imperti-
TTTE TC.WTXK P.RTDCE
l'aciug page 24;
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 247
nence. Any other offense but that, in my household discipline,
was pardonable. So. I dismissed him. Two days later, little
Ntyindiorema gave a glad outcry as he saw coming a canoe
with Sambunaga and others from Mpanja (the Igenja region).
They came with quantities of fowls to sell, more than I needed.
So, I bought only from those who had brought to pay for their
clothing and schoolbooks. I made an exception in favor of a
man, a stranger. He counted out the proper number of fowls
(five) for a "dollar*' (trade) of calico print "cloth" (five
yards). Then, while I was cutting the cloth, he attempted to
deceive me, by slipping one of the fowls back into his box, hop-
ing I would not miss it, as the remaining four lay in a con-
fused pile. I quietly retained the cloth, handed the four fowls
back to him, and declined to have anything more to do with
him. Sambunaga had his wife with him. She made an unusual
addition on my premises ; for, but few of my young men were
married, and scarcely any had brought their wives. It is
usual with the natives, on marriage, to give the wife a new
name. He called her Xyama-a-rangi-'n-ombeni (Prev-that-was
destined-for-the-hunter). My sister substituted a shorter name,
" Charity." I continued my teaching in the afternoons.
The young Mpongwe gentleman. Sam. M. Laseni, husband of
" Alida " (Xgwa-njanga), whom I have previously mentioned,
wrote to me asking for medicine, and saying that they were
"keeping their Christian course." Alas! they both sadly failed,
later on.
On March 8, I sent word for Re-Xkombe. He came ; and,
I told him that I had cut the long path around the landside of the
premises, and that I wished him to go with me and verify my
marks. He comforted me by saying that the Fariwe living near
the line probably would remove and build nearer to the Aguma
trading-house. YVe went ; and, commencing at Andende Creek,
spent two solid hours walking slowly over the entire line. At
the end, he asked for the loan of an axe. Thinking his services
were worth it, I presented him with one. That night, the
strongest wind I had felt for six months blew down a tall tree
near the boat-shed. The shed was at the bottom of the ra-
vine, through which the little stream from the spring above
flowed into the river. The tree, as it fell, exactly bridged the
ravine. Its upper side adzed to a level, that log became the
bridge that for many years was traversed by the residents of the
Hill and the (subsequent) dwellers at Andende.
The head-man of Xtyuwa-euma visited me, admired the
248 MY OGOWE
house, and wished to see it all. So, I showed him ; and, at the
close, he asked for a gift. Just because he had asked for it,
I gave him only a small present. I so disliked begging. If he
had not asked for it, I would have voluntarily given him some-
thing larger. He did not thank me. I suppose that he thought
that the owner of so much that, to the native eye, was wealth,
ought to have given more. I noted such thankless people; and
remembered next time to give them nothing.
Almost every evening, I had some entertainment for my
household, that salved over whatever annoyances there may have
been during the day. After evening-prayers, on March 18, in
connection with the reading in Genesis. I showed a series of
twelve pictures in the life of Joseph. Then, my conversation
drifted on to longevity. I mentioned the great age of my
paternal grandmother, and showed them Gutekunst's large photo-
graph of four generations (grandmother, my father, myself, and
my two sons). The separate pictures of my sons were ad-
mired; and Charles was recognized as "the one who sent the
steamboat," a little automatic vessel, that, being wound up,
traveled over the floor, much to the delight of their wondering
eyes.
On March 19, troubles and overwork gave me a bad attack
of fever. I was so weak, that Ingumu and little Ntyindi-orema
had to help me to bed. The next day, some of my people who
had been the most troublesome, came to express their anxiety
for my health. The following day. I was better, but had not
slept well; for, Sambunaga's wife was moving about in the
yard; and, late at night, a troop of chimpanzees went yelling
by.
In the afternoon, word came that the Pioneer had arrived.
The glad news made me well, and I hasted off to Aguma with
two boats. My sister was there; but. suffering from a headache.
Until late in the night, my people were busy bringing her boxes
from the steamer, and carrying them up the Hill. 1 sat up
late talking with her. and reading my mail from my children.
And. then, the house was invaded by an army of driver-ants, and
we could not sleep, being driven from room to room as the ants
sought for food.
On Sunday, the 24th, S. M. Laseni came with his wife, and
left her with us, while he went on to his employer's at Aguma.
I was glad to see them. Fafiwe people were shouting in the
forest on my premises not far from the house, hunting witli
dogs. 1 sent word for them to go away, using this quiet
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 249
method, as I wished no disturbance on Sunday. But, they con-
tinued their noise and trespass until 3 p. m. Then, conscien-
tiously, I decided that the case called for decisive measures,
even if it should be a fight. I felt that even the latter was justi-
fied under the circumstances. Going with three " cutlasses "
(machetes) and five young men, I came on two men and their
dogs and weapons. As I rushed at them, one of the men fled,
the other one I knocked down, and satisfactorily beat him
with the flat of the machete; and then he and his dogs ran
away. I captured a gun, a spear, and a hunting-bag. Then,
I returned, and held Sunday-school. My people were glad to
have my sister again with them for their teaching. The house
was again invaded at night by driver-ants.
It was an unusual thing that any trader, native or foreigner,
retained a Christian character, even if he had a Christian name.
The trade was inseparably founded on rum as its most common
article of exchange ; and, few native traders could refrain from
its use. It was therefore the more noticeable that, at the Tues-
day evening the 26th, prayer meeting, the Mpongwe, Sam'l M.
Laseni was present, and made a prayer.
To honor those who were willing to stand by their Christian
name, I invited the Mpongwe, Ngeza and his wife Makeki, who
had arrived from Gaboon, at his employer's at Aguma, to be my
guests for the day, on the 27th. They and their company of
followers came in the afternoon. I made them a supper. And,
at evening prayers, I called on him for prayer. Afterward, they
were entertained by looking at the stereopticon pictures, the
automatic steamboat, and jointed wooden snake. I manipulated
its motions so realistically, that, though I assured my guests that
it was only wood, none of them would touch it. I had thence a
good lesson in warning them against the deceptions of their
sorcerer-doctors.
On Thursday the 28th, the head-man of the Fanwe village
came, in the afternoon, to beg me for the captured gun, etc.,
of the preceding Sunday. He had been afraid to come to me
during those four days. He had waited for the white man's
wrath to subside. As he was so very suppliant, I yielded the
articles to him.
I did not read a great deal. But, when friends in the United
States sent me some book which they had especially enjoyed, I
took a particular interest in it for their sake. A novel, " One
Summer," I enjoyed much.
On Sunday, March 31, there was an unusual number of people
250 MY OGOWE
at services. Among them, were Laseni and his wife and com-
pany, and Ngeza and wife and company. I invited these Chris-
tians to remain to dinner. And then, there was a demonstration
of a custom that is African and oriental form from Bihle days,
when outsiders frequently were spectators and sometimes even
forced themselves to the table. I knew that whenever a man
and wife were invited, they would bring- with them their children,
their brothers and sisters, and other members of their families.
So, that day, when my invited four went to the table, their
boats' crews of ten each followed them. That I had rather ex-
pected. But, I felt indignant when another man. Ongamu. whom
I had not invited, who was not a Christian, nor a relative to my
guests, pushed himself in. simply because he was a member of
the aristocratic Mpongwe tril)e, and because food was in sight.
Out of respect for my four invited ones, T said nothing. At
that table that day there were thirty people!
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
On Tuesday, April 2, I was to make the monthly inspection
of Belambla. I frequently made a convenience of my trade-
friends at Aguma. to take a meal with them, when I stopped
there, on my up-river trips, to get goods for the expenses of the
journey. ( There was, at that time, all through the Mission,
no use of cash. All payments of wages and purchases from the
natives were in barter, with trade-goods.) At such times, re-
ports of danger met me. Sometimes, they proved to be un-
true; or, when true, were greatly exaggerated. However, they
gave the journey a zest. At Aguma that day. I was warned
that there was trouble up-river with the Bakele, for both me and
my boat's crew. Ordinarily, I disregarded the vague warning
of " danger." though my crew always dreaded. That day we
went on. with some anxiety. The warning was specifically
against us, but it was indefinite. What had been my offense,
that my boat should be attacked? On our passing Sakwele's
house, we were asked the down-river news; and. on our inquiring
about the up-river, we were told that all was well. And. at
Anyambe-jena's village, one of Kasa's people there said that
there was no trouble at Belambla. I wondered much at the
evil report of the morning.
The next day, there was abundance of plantains to be bought:
soap was particularly desired in payment. That always pleased
me! On the day's journey, passing Akilibonga's. he. with his
mouth full of the ngtscsc he was eating, imperiously called on
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE
2;i
me to stop and " visit " him. (That meant, to end with a gift.)
But, I disregarded him, and went on. Arrived at Belambla,
found that the evil report was untrue. The place looked very
well; fruit trees were growing admirably. The trespasser,
Walinja and his people were away in the forest, after rubber.
I made no reference to his transgressions.
The next day, in examination with Awora of his expenses for
the previous quarter, he was able to account for everything,
except $6. My faith in his honesty was so complete, that I felt
sure the money was not improperly gone. I was willing to be-
lieve that he had forgotten some items.
At noon, came a report that a Goree trader. Manga, had been
killed by the Bakele. (Expectation of some such conspiracy
was probably the basis of the report about me.) Immediately,
there was great excitement. There was a gathering of all the
Goree, Mpongwe, and other native traders, and a decision to
abandon the river. There was a general panic, and a noisy de-
parture of their canoes. This, of course, alarmed my people
also.
The next day, Friday the 5th, King Ondehe and Chief Mayisi
and other head-men called early to see me, on their way to the
village of the previous day's reports. They told my people not
to fear; that the "palaver" was only with the traders and not
with the Mission.
I delayed my departure, awaiting until noon, hoping to hear
Ondene's account of their discussion, on his expected return.
Awora bore himself very well. He apparently was not afraid,
and did not hesitate to remain at his post ; though some one.
even of my own crew, tried to alarm him. The journey down-
river was rapid, stopping nowhere, and reaching Kangwe in a
heavy rain-storm ; but, warmly welcomed by my people, who
had heard of the Aguma report. I sometimes doubted whether
I was not too kind in my dealings with the natives, for, I
found that my generosity or kindness was misunderstood, and
that occasionally I received unkindness in return. There came",
on Monday the 8th. many people to morning prayers. I knew
that they were not there for the religious service ; they were there
to sell their products. But, I deliberately had arranged that my
daily market should be held immediately after that service. I
hoped that, possibly, some, coming for earthly gain, might hear
some truth which they would remember. There were present
that day, three separate parties, with plantains for sale. As I
did not need all, I chose those belonging to a company of women
252 MY OGOWE
(favoring them rather than the others, who were men). But,
even of that party, some of their bunches were so small,
that I declined to buy them. Then, they went away angry with
my people (who had objected to the small fruit) and threatening
to send their husbands to fight with the objectors. I had been
teaching the Galwa workmen to read only in Mpongwe (with
which their dialect was cognate). But, that day, three, Bayio,
Piere, and Akendenge beg'an to study also English.
Next day, Tuesday the 9th, was a pleasant incident on the
other side. My friend Azizya, Re-Xkombe's sister, came to see
me, bringing with her a number of people. I gave them small
presents of fish-hooks. Then, one little girl promptly gave me
in return some pepper-pods, which she had previously offered
for sale, and which I had refused to purchase. I was made
glad by another Galwa employee, Xguva, commencing the study
of English. [In later years, he became a church elder.]
Following my habit wherever I lived (and sometimes on my
journeys) I planted, on the 10th, a Jack-fruit tree (resembling
a bread-fruit), a number of shaddocks (enormous grape-fruit)
and mangoes.
The prospect of a church organization was growing. In the
evening of Friday the 12th, I held my first regular meeting of
the catechumen inquiry class. The members present were
Mamba, Sambunaga, Bayio, Akendenge, and Agonjo-amwenge.
There were four others at Belambla ; and Aveya, in town, was
on the list. In that meeting, I made my first attempt at pray-
ing in Mpongwe.
I valued very much a female goat, which, though it had two
frisky kids, was able to spare every evening a comfortable sup-
ply of milk for my sister. I knew that her coming to me was
because of the too great strain of her living alone at Benita.
Though I made her surroundings restful, it was true that she
had not recovered the strength that was hoped for. But, she en-
joyed her teaching; and I was building for her use a schoolhouse,
the strongest and neatest I had ever erected. By the 25th of
April we were in the height of the " latter " rainy season,
(March-May). The weather was beautiful, except that there
was a thunder-storm for a short time every afternoon about live
o'clock. On the premises there was the cawing of a multitude
of the gray African red-tailed parrot. I thought that there
had been hatched a lot of young ones. I was pleased in over-
hearing Ntyege (monkey) and Xguva begging Ingumu to help
them with their lessons even after school hours; they were so
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 253
anxious to learn. Just as I sat down to evening tea, word came
that the Pioneer was entering our river. After dark I went to
Aguma for the expected mail, but, unknowingly passed a canoe,
in which Mr. Sinclair had kindly sent it to me. I remained at
Aguma awhile, chatting about the war between Russia and
Turkey. When I returned, my sister had already retired, not
feeling well. And, we both were greatly disappointed in that
the mail brought no news from Corisco or Benita. But, I had
good letters, from son Charles in Philadelphia, and his guardian
Mrs. Patten ; from Mrs. Jane Thompson, of Liberia, who had
been nurse of son William while at Corisco; and from Rev.
S. H. Murphy, and my good native Christian friend Njivo, of
Baraka.
The next day was a trying one. My sister was really sick,
and in great pain. Yet, I had to superintend the sending of
two boats to bring freight brought by the Pioneer. My sister's
pain increased, until she was delirious most of the day. And,
when the usual afternoon thunder-storm came, its noise racked
her nerves. That night I did not retire at all ; but, sat up in an
arm-chair. By midnight, my sister's pain had somewhat dimin-
ished.
But, the next day, her headache returned; and, when the
thunder-storm came, her paroxysms of pain were dreadful. Mr.
Travis had called during the afternoon, to say good-by, he going
on his furlough to England. I had not gone to bed for three
nights, watching my sister. She was much better in the morn-
ing of the 29th, but, still very weak.
Re-Nkombe's sister, Azizya, came twice during those days
to make inquiries. And, the sympathy and anxiety of all the
young men and boys of the station were very gratifying. -
On May 1, a new lad, Oyembo, from Adalinananga, was
brought by his father and a retinue of people to engage to come to
school. I was exceedingly encouraged by the desire of the
Galwa people for education. I rearranged the school. I ap-
pointed Ingumu to teach all the pupils of Mpongwe (Galwas) ;
then, those who were studying English, were passed on to Ijabi
(a. Kombe). these two teachers holding their classes at the same
time. And, then, at 3 p. m., those two teachers, with others
(Mbamba, Aveya, and Ntyindiorema) were passed on to my
sister. The station had been located only eighteen months be-
fore, and already I had a " graded " school ! On May 3, the
lad Oyembo came, bringing with him his older brother and two
others. By Wednesday the 8th, the schoolhouse was almost
254 MY OGOWK
completed ; and I commenced making- a small addition to the
boat-shed. A fourth girl was brought to sister's little girls'
school, Iguve, betrothed of Oyembo. There were then twenty-
seven men, women, and children on the premises, whom I daily
fed.
Thursday, May 9th, was spoiled by dissensions. Aveya's little
wife spitefully sent back to him the clothing he had given her.
and said that she would break marriage with him. At first.
I thought that he was in the wrong, and began to rebuke him ;
but. I was mistaken. In the evening, after prayers, the
girls were noisy, rude, and insulting to the young men and
boys. (Pupils in our girls' schools, oppressed in their own vil-
lages, abused the freedom of their mission life.) Also, Bayio
got angry when Ingumu rebuked him for some offense: and
there was a great deal of loud talking among the boys in their
hut. about this quarrel. The next day. I had a long talk aboirt
the preceding day's difficulties. Its effect was good.
For the afternoon visitation of Saturday the i rth. T went to
Ijukejame's Akele village. All the women ran away; they were
afraid of me. T did not know the reason why. So, T went on to
Aguma: and returned early.
On Monday. May 13, many parties of women came to my
morning market, with plantains for sale. One woman tried to
deceive me: so, I took back the goods T had already paid her.
and returned her plantains. Aveya's little wife was again mak-
ing him trouble, and attempting to run away. In the evening, at
the after-prayer chat, the young men made the strange request
that, if any of them should die while with me. I should not
allow their remains to be taken away by their relatives, but
that I should bury them on the mission premises. They gave,
as their reason for this wish, certain native funeral supersti-
tions, in which they no longer believed. T was pleased with
their wish, though I knew that, in their present stage of civiliza-
tion in the river, it would have been impossible for me to com-
ply with it.
TO BELAMBLA.
I made the journey of inspection on the Jjlh-^oth. M'"-
Sinclair had errands to his native traders, and accompanied me
in his own boat. Affairs had developed in that part of the
river, during the year past. Many new traders had located,
and they were building large new houses: the Bakele were less
quarrelsome, and more considerate of white men's wishes; the
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 255
Goree quarrel had been settled ; and, instead of their abandon-
ing the river, as they had threatened, they were building a large
house on Gazie Island. King Ondene had died about ten days
before. His people were holding a great mourning. They had
issued an order, that, out of respect to their dead king, all boats
passing their town, should lower their flags and cease all drum-
ming and singing. At Belambla, I found Awora's accounts
correct. He wished to be relieved ; and I located Aveya in
his place.
In the morning of the 30th, came word that the Pioneer had
arrived at Aguma. Mr. Sinclair and I hasted down-river in our
boats; and arrived in the middle of the afternoon. The Pion-
eer was indeed there, purposely aground on a sand-bar, where,
taking advantage of the dry season low water, she was to be
recoppered. On Saturday, June 1, my day's preaching was at
Pinja's village. I had not been there for many months, be-
cause of its people having been so noisy when last I was there.
Then, went on to Aguma : and was introduced to Mr. Sinclair's
new white assistant. Mr. Holland. He did not impress me
favorably. But I was very much pleased to meet my Mpongwe
lady-friend Njivo and her newly married husband, Dowe. The
next day. they came to church services. She was a Christian ;
he was not.
Among the many insect and other small forms of life that
annoyed me were Eye-worms. They were not constant, like the
ants, etc. But, though they came only at intervals of months,
and lasted only a few days, they were painful while they lasted ;
and, depending on the portion of the eye that they attacked,
they might be dangerous to sight. The first feeling of their
presence was in the inner angle of the eye, an itching sensation.
I would rub the spot, not thinking of a worm, and supposing
that the sensation would pass. But, it persisted. Then, I
would be conscious of a movement of some object in the lower
lid. And, later, as that object moved, at frequent intervals I
had to twist the eye, under a pain like the prick of a pin, which
I believed was the bite of the worm. Still later, I could see
distinctly, just beneath the skin of the lid, the movements of the
worm's convolutions. After two days, I could feel it creeping
across my cheek. And, two days later, it would appear in one
of my fingers. Then, it would disappear, perhaps for months.
It never attacked my eyeball (though it did so appear, with one
of the traders). It was a worm, from one inch to one and a
half inches long, of the thickness of an ordinary sewing-thread,
256 MY OGOWK
with a distinct head. As I have mentioned elsewhere, I sent
one to my friend Thos. G. Morton, M.D., of Philadelphia, who
had it examined by Dr. Leidy, professor ( of anatomy in the
University of Pennsylvania, who wrote an article on it in a
scientific journal, giving it the name of Loa dranunculus. I
never knew the source of the worm. I have supposed that its
germ was imbibed in impure water I drank. After being quies-
cent in my system for even two years, the worm has reappeared,
twice while I was on furlough in the United States. I know
of its having so appeared in the eyes of two of our mission
ladies also on furlough.
TO BELAMBLA.
As I was to go to Gaboon for the semiannual meetings of
mission and presbytery at Libreville, there was need to first visit
Belambla, in order to see that it would be safe during my ab-
sence. I found Aveya satisfactory in his accounts. And, the
Rakele children were availing themselves of the opportunity to
learn to read in his little school. Two boys of Nandi, who had
lived with me two years before, and whom I had not seen dur-
ing all that interval, came to me to say a lesson; they had not
forgotten what I had taught them. Kasa's son, Kimagwe, was
one of Aveya's employees. He wished to leave temporarily. I
offered him a $2 mosquito-net if he would remain. He honestly
refused it. He might easily have assented and taken the net ;
and. then after my departure, could have run away. Almost
all the villages were deserted; their entire population off in the
forest, felling trees and making gardens. It was a picnic time
for all the young people. T did not wonder that Kimagwe
wished to leave. All was well ; and the journey successful.
The evening of my return to Kangwe, the 24th, at the re-
quest of the household, I gave an exhibition of the toy automatic
steamboat and the jointed wooden snake. They were all afraid
of the latter, so adroitly did I manipulate its movements. But,
I was not deceiving them. As, on a former occasion. I assured
them that the snake was only wood, and the movements mine. I
contrasted with their sorcerer-doctors.
Though the house on the hillside was a center of civilization
with my sister, we occasionally were reminded that we were
quite on the edge. For, on the 25th. I heard an elephant
trumpeting in the forest, not very far from the house. With
Ingumu, I pursued it; but, it fled; and, of course, it was im-
possible to overtake a fleeing elephant.
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 257
JOURNEY TO GABOON.
My sister was not well enough to risk the exposure of the
200 mile boat-journey to Gaboon. But, her ill health was not
of such a nature as that I should fear to leave her alone at
Kangwe. She was used to living alone at Benita. I gave her
selected workmen to be under her control during my absence.
One of the teachers. Ingumu. was returning to his home at
Benita. When I went to Aguma for some last errands, Mr.
Sinclair recognized the young man's goodness by making him
some parting presents. And, faithful friend Azizya came to
give good-by gifts. The journey was pleasant, in that I saw
how the river had grown in civilization since last I had slowly
passed its villages. Now, they all showed more order, cleaner
surroundings, and better dress. I enjoyed watching point after
point, as I recognized them in the rapid descent with the current.
Passed the mouth of Kenje Creek ; saw Agaia's village, and was
given a gift of fish. Saw my dismissed Ogandaga at his vil-
lage. Eweze met us at Mbangwe. The path of that hill was
freshly cleared, street swept, houses swept, and seats ready for
us. Old men and some former employees came to salute me.
But. the latter did not come to meeting in the evening. I had
a cold that made my voice hoarse. I could not sing, and spoke
with difficulty. Ingumu spoke in my place. On the 28th. T
wished to turn aside from the direct journey to Gaboon, and
make a visit to Laseni and his wife Alida. in Lake Ezanga. I
did not know the way. except that I knew we had to pass through
Lake Onanga. And. I could get no one to go with me as guide.
Two whom I had engaged the night before, failed me. because
thev did not know how they were to return to their village. So.
with my small crew. I took the rudder myself. At a village
near the mouth of the small (lower) entrance to the lake, young
men there contemptuously refused my offer of wages; and. tak-
ing advantage of my need, asked an impossible price for their
services. (I never yielded to such demands, preferring to suf-
fer difficulties otherwise.) In the lake, the water was rough with
the cold dry season wind, and the crew pulled with but little
heart. As the boat-awning was obstructed with the wind. I
took it down; and. then the sun's glare hurt my eyes. There
was a long paddling among the many islands and past villages.
The varietv in the shape and height of the islands was
picturesque. Saw an alligator asleep on a rock : and, two hip-
popotami walking on a sand-bank. Late in the afternoon. I
258 MY OGOWE
felt that it was hopeless to reach Laseni's for the night. So,
I turned back to seek a certain village which we had passed.
Agaia (unintentionally) misled me; and, failing of that village,
and night having come, and being weary of the confusion, I de-
cided to sleep in the boat, though another village was near, to
which I allowed the crew to go.
The next day, Saturday, we emerged from the lake by its
outlet into the Ogowe, at Ngomu, the town opposite to Oranga.
I stopped at Ngomu, because its people had complained that I
passed them by, favoring only Oranga. I went up into the
town, intending to hold a meeting. But, the people stared at
me so rudely, and treated me with so little attention, that I left.
Stopped at Mbanga's place, intending to remain and eat; but,
he had moved to another place. Went on to Azaze's; was
well received ; was given food and polite attention. Rested, ate
and had a pleasant meeting. Went on to Igenja district, stop-
ping at Awora's village to let out Re-Nguwa. And, went on to
Ombya-ogwana's, and was there met by Mamba, who, by pre-
vious arrangement, was to join the crew for Gaboon. Pleasant
prayers in the evening. Manja's wife told me she was trying
to seek Jesus.
At the Sunday morning service next day, the 30th, the
people were very attentive. Afterward, I heard lessons. T was
very much impressed with the influence of the Gospel as already
received in the hearts of Mamba and the other young men of
Igenja. The people were all so respectful; no drumming or
quarreling; all decently dressed, clean, and the females so ap-
parently modest. All seemed to know of me, and to look on
me as a friend ; even the little girls, who, in other villages, would
have been afraid of me. All the boys came to say lessons in
the afternoon. There was a pleasant prayer meeting in the
evening; and, an interesting chat with the men afterward. The
only person who behaved unpleasantly during the whole day,
was an old man who tried to force himself on me, as if he was
the head of the town.
The next day, July 1, I gave good-by gifts to the mothers of
Mamba, Abumba, Angeka, and Bayio; and, to several of the
boys (fish-hooks) and girls (scissors and toy-bells). I was
pleased with Abumba's three sisters ; the second one was quite
beautiful, but I liked most the youngest, a little girl, Ntyere, who,
though there was plenty of space elsewhere for her to sit,
asked that she might sit by me. She stood and said, " I want
to sit." " Well, sit here by me " ; and she nestled up to me, and
GALWA WOMEN
Facing page 258
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 259
I put my arms around her; for, she was shivering with the cold
morning air. I was just then drinking my morning cup of
tea. (Perhaps the child wished a share in it!) While I was
in the hut where my goods-box was (having gone there pri-
vately with Mamba and Ombya-ogwana) the offensive old man
of the previous day forced himself in, uninvited. He had
judged rightly that I was making some private gifts to the other
two, and dared to assume that he should be given something
also. His assumption was rude and undignified. Heads of vil-
lages usually waited politely for me to give what I thought due,
without coming to inspect my goods-box. I indignantly or-
dered him out. He left ashamed; and was not present when I
publicly gave to others, all of whom were pleased with what they
received. We started again the journey, all in good spirits,
with six paddles, and Ingumu at the rudder. Went rapidly past
the Ashuka villages. Stopped to eat at Ngumbe. Isagi's head-
wife was attentive, would have caught a fowl, and would have
gone to her plantation for vegetables for me. But, I told her
not to leave her work of mat-weaving; that, I had a chicken
ready prepared. I sat and watched her industry and skill in the
weaving.
Going in the afternoon, I met a hippopotamus, which ap-
parently had no fear; it allowed us to come very near to him.
On, past Yambe, a part of King Njagu's town. And, at sun-
set, stopped in a very desirable little cove at the island Olende.
In the dusk, went hunting for birds. All the crew were in
good humor, cooking, and laughing, and charring each other, and
eating sugar-cane. But, I did not sleep well that night; for, the
tide in receding, left the boat on its side, and I lay in an angle.
Also, the net being disadj listed, mosquitoes got in.
Starting shortly after daybreak of July 2, it was pleasant to
recognize places at which I had formerly rested or eaten. On,
past Nango. Stopped at Nombi to eat. Chief Onanga was not
there; but, his wife with her little child received me. On to
Angala by 3 p. m. The French had placed a customs officer
there. Mr. Joseph Xavier, who received me politely. As I in-
tended leaving my boat at some village in Nazareth Bay. and, re-
membering the assault on me by the Orungu there only two years
before, I inquired as to the character of the men and their vil-
lages. King Esongi was an honorable man, and treated all visit-
ors properly. He told me that his brother-in-law, Ngwa-nyani
(Eagle) at Abun'-awiri (Abundance of spirits) would treat me
well. Also, that I might trust Anege and an old man Ibaku, of
260 MY OGOWE
even the unfriendly " Lisboa/' I sat by the water-side writing a
note to be left at Angala and to be given to Mr. John Ermy, who
was supposed to be on his way to the Ogowe from Libreville.
He would deliver the note to my sister at Kangwe, to assure her
of my welfare.
I sat up late in the evening talking with Esongi, who asked
many curious questions about religion. His intelligence alwavs
surprised me. In the night, after I had retired. I heard him out
in the street, praying to the myondi (spirits of the new moon).
I knew of such prayers in spirit-ceremonies, but it was the first
time that I had actually heard them.
For the thirty miles from Angala to the sea. next day. there
were no villages ; mostly only mangrove forest. I emerged into
Xazareth Bay in the middle of the afternoon.
In my journeys to Gaboon, I always had to write, weeks in ad-
vance, to notify the Hudson to meet me. This required my
planning ahead and arranging definitely on what day I would
emerge into Xazareth Bay. T could always control that ; for. I
allowed myself a margin of time for possible detentions. And
the mission captain. Mr. Menkel, at the sea-coast end, had to al-
low himself a margin. For, the 70-mile voyage from Libreville,
that took the Hudson only three days in the favorable winds of
the rainy season, might require fixe, mider the opposing winds of
the cold-dry. As T emerged into the Bay, about 3 p. m. of
that Wednesday, the 3rd. I saw the Hudson anchored far out.
( Tt had been awaiting five days. I was on time: but, it had ar-
rived unusually early.) I sailed out toward her. When she saw
me coming, she put up her sails. Arrived at her side. 1 unloaded
my boxes on to her deck, and went back ashore to leave the boat,
the vessel slowly and carefully following me in the shallows. Go-
ing to the village of Abun'-awiri, T was well-received by Ngwa-
nyani. He promised to take care of the boat. I held a meeting;
but. the superstitious women did not wish to come to it. He sent
me in his canoe, to where the Hudson was anchored. I "p anchor
at 8 p. m., and anxiouslv crossing the shallows, put out to sea, and
sailed well all night. The next morning, July 4, T recognized
Mr. Ermy's canoe in-shore. Ran in toward him; anchored,
hailed him. and sent off our canoe to him. He came. T gave
him mail for my sister, which the Hudson had brought to me.
Early in the afternoon entered Gaboon estuary. The officers
of the French guard-ship recognizing me, remitted the usual rule,
requiring all vessels to stop and report, and allowed the Hudson
to sail at once to its anchorage. And. \ was at the Baraka house
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 261
by 4 p. m. My mail was large and good: but, it was saddened
by Mr. Murphy's intelligence of the death of his little daughter
Kate.
In the Mission, the ideal relation of itinerants and mission-
aries in a new held, was, that they were working as assistants
in the parish of whatever church next adjacent existed already
organized. And, their converts were to be brought for baptism
to that church. The missionary in charge of that church was
considered bishop of the entire adjacent region. That had been
the courteous attitude of Rev. George Paull and myself toward
the church on Corisco Island under charge of Rev. J. L. Mackey.
Benita church was a growth and division from Corisco ; and,
later, all the coast churches north of Benita grew by division
from it. In the same courteous spirit, though my work in the
Ogowe was 200 miles away from the Gaboon church, I recog-
nized that I was in its " parish," and that its church session
might properly claim for its membership any who were converted
through me. In that spirit, I had so regarded Rev. Dr. Bushnell,
pastor of the Gaboon church. And, in his absence in the United
States, I offered the same courtesy to Rev. Mr. Murphy, in Dr.
Bushnell's place. I brought two of my Ogowe people, Mamba
and Awora, for examination by the Gaboon session ; and they
were accepted for baptism. There was a touching incident in
Mamba's examination. He was asked, " Why do you leave your
native ' fashions ' ? Are they not good? " " Xo, I thought they
were, long ago ; but. was in darkness. Dr. Nassau and I are in
the light. And I believe his words." " But, in what do you
believe?"' "In Jesus." ''But, have you even seen Him?"
" Xo ; not with my eyes, but, in my heart, I know that He for-
gives sins."
On Sunday, July 2, I preached for Mr. Murphy, from Acts 17,
2~. In- the afternoon. Communion and baptism were held.
Mamba and Awora were baptized. I felt very tenderly in the
administration of the rite to these two, the first fruits from my
Ogowe work. In the evening, was held monthly concert.
With Mr. Murphy I had planned to make an excursion in the
Hudson north to Kamerun. in order to ascend its peak, 14,000
feet high. But, on Monday the 8th, news came from Benita of
the serious illness of Miss Dewsnap. and, the Hudson was sent
for her. That excursion to the peak being given up, there was
no reason for delay of returning to my Ogowe, except that there
was no vessel to take me. In the meanwhile, I enjoyed the so-
ciety of the white traders, who all were very friendly with Mr.
262 MY OGOWE
Murphy. Each had a horse (an animal rare in that region; the
few that were possessed being imported from other parts of the
coast). I went horseback riding with Mr. Murphy, Captain Jon-
athan Holt, Mr. Schulze, and Mr. McFarland.
On Tuesday the 9th, a letter came to the Mission from the
French commandant about complaints made to him of our
Baraka cattle trespassing on native gardens. Another trouble-
some item was that Mr. Schorsch had arrived from Corisco
Island, evidently intending to force himself into our meetings.
As a German, he had found sympathy at the German trading-
house. Mr. Murphy went there to try to restrain Mr. Schorsch.
Nevertheless, the next day. he came up the Baraka hill to us,
but, we closed the doors ; and he went away. Presbytery meet-
ing was held. My protege. Licentiate Itongolo, was appointed to
Batanga, among the Banaka people. Mr. Schorsch came again ;
but, was unable to enter.
A young man, Mr. Alfred Boy. clerk at the German house, was
a friendly visitor with the three ladies of the Baraka household,
Mrs. Smith, Miss Jones, and Miss Walker. The nth was
his birthday; and, a little entertainment was made for him.
[This gentleman is still living, a resident of Xew York City.]
On the 1 2th. a native blacksmith shot one of the Baraka cattle
for trespassing in his garden. Mr. Murphy recovered the car-
cass. But. to an appeal for redress, the French magistrate said
that the native was not bound to protect his garden by a fence; if
we wished to keep cows for their milk, we should build an en-
closure. As that would be a private expense and not chargeable
to general mission account, it would be too expensive for Mr.
Murphy, and, the cattle were sold. On the 16th, walked with
the ladies to the German house, to see a collection of animals by
a Mr. Frackman, a German traveler: there were five chimpanzees,
four young gorillas, three mandril monkeys, two others, and a
strange animal somewhat like a genet.
To enliven my delay, Mr. Murphy made a little " banquet " in
my honor, on the 18th, to which the three ladies and Mr. Boy
were invited. The menu of the feast itself, the dresses, and the
agreeable chats of the evening, were all quite like a " sociable " in
the United States. We sang, without instruments. And. after
we had escorted the ladies to their house, Mr. Murphy and T re-
turned to our house and talked until midnight. Even then. T was
not sleepy; and. T sat up and read for a while, to quiet the unusual
excitement.
I had preached on two Sundays for Mr. Murphy. The third.
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 263
the 21st of July, himself occupied the pulpit; an eloquent sermon.
At Sabbath school he requested me to make a short address. I
had been using Mpongwe in the Ogowe among Galwas ; but, at
Gaboon, the very home of the proud Mpongwe tribe, I hesitated
to speak alone; and used an interpreter Ngoni. He made such
wretched work of my sentences, that I cut short my remarks, and
sat down.
At daylight of the 23d, the Hudson was seen at anchor. Miss
Walker went down to the beach to welcome Miss Dewsnap, and
I followed. During the day, busy at packing for my return to
the Ogowe. In the evening had a slight fever-chill, and went to
bed covered with blankets.
JOURNEY BACK TO THE OGOWE.
It was dry season, with the strong winds from southward, that
always made difficult any attempt to sail in this direction. And,
our cutter Hudson was at best a poor sailor. I knew that the
seventy miles down to the Ogowe mouth would be a long trip, al-
ways trying, because of my constant nausea on the sea.
Beginning on early morning of Tuesday, July 30, I had at
once a disappointment. As we passed out of the river, there
entered near us the mail-steamer Roquelle. It doubtless had
mail for me from the United States. And, I might have to wait
a month for it, before it could be forwarded to me by the very
irregular little river-steamers !
Six days were uncomfortably spent in going those seventy
miles! Tacking; losing progress; anchoring; waiting for the
wind to diminish. (It and the tide were always stronger at the
new moon.) Finally, on Monday, August 5, I sent the cutter's
canoe ashore, to Abun'-awiri village to bring the boat I had left
in care of head-man Ngwa-nyani. Loading into it my various
goods from the Hudson, I started up-river; and, pulling all day,
was at Angala at dark. Was received by the French customs of-
ficer, Mons. J. Xavier. A German employee, Schwartz, was oc-
cupying Mr. Schulze's house where I usually slept. So, I was
shown to a small new bamboo hut. News had come from up-
river ; among other items, that my sister was well. I was so
very hungry that, in sitting down with King Esongi, who
wanted to hear " news," I swept aside the usual etiquette, i.e., to
" tell news " before being given food, I asked at once for it : I
had been fasting so long on the Hudson. I did not sleep well ;
for, in the street, Banja, Esongi's nephew, was having a dance all
night, with fetish ceremonies, for his wife, praying that she
264 MY OGOWE
should not remain childless, as their only child had recently died.
Also, the crew of a Goree canoe, which had come with produce to
await the arrival of the Mpongzve, was drinking and carousing all
night.
The next day, August 6, stopped on the way at ftombi, and
gave to head-man Onanga's wife, two little dresses, which the
ladies at Haraka had made for her child. I wished that the
donors could have seen her pleasure ! The wind that, on the sea.
was an opposing one, was. on the river, a favorable one. With
wind and sail, the crew could rest from their paddling. We
moved so rapidly, even against the current, that 1 reached my
usual stopping-place in the forest long before sundown. The
crew were happy. For supper, I gave them a turtle, and myself
a chicken. The next night, I reached Yambe. The town looked
deserted. I did not know the reason why. until 1 was told that
Chief Onwa-ombe, or " Mwanji-nkombe," had been dead for
more than a month. I was shown to the house I had usually occu-
pied, but was given very little attention by the new head of the vil-
lage. My own people were slow, being oppressed by the mourning
ceremonies ; there was shameless begging by the villagers : they
would not give my people even firewood without pay! I felt
like leaving, and camping in the forest. Late into the night,
there was a woman running up and down the street, under intense
excitement (whether real or assumed T did not know) and
breathing like a wild animal. (Probably, an uldgd priestess.)
The next clay, August 8, I left the village, indignant at having
been required to pay for the use of the house in which 1 had
slept! The first time I had ever met with such inhospitalitv.
We pulled on among the tortuous channels around the sand-
bars of Xenge-Saka (Slave-islands), where we had actually to
search, in the rampant vegetation, for any dry dead wood, with
which to cook our i t a. m. " breakfast." in the forest. Then, on
to Xgumbe. where I waited a while for Chief Isagi. lie was
improving on acquaintance. When he came, he relinked his
slave for trying to overreach me in my purchase of fond. lie
presented me with plantains, fowls, and mats. T passed on. un-
der sail, to an island opposite to Avanga. reaching there long
after dark.
The next day, I saw an alligator on a sand-bank, and fired at
it three times, thinking it was asleep. It proved to have been
dead; killed, probably by a shark. My people were disappointed
that it was too decayed for them to eat. On the way. 1 stopped
for a short service at the Ivili village of Re-Teno, who received
OX THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 265
me well. The wife of Orondo, from the adjacent Galwa town
of Ashuka, came to see me, remained to meeting, and sat close
by me. Her one-eyed sister crowded up near to her, so that her
thigh pressed against mine. I objected to the crowding. Then,
they explained that they wished to sit very near to me, so that
the odor of my body passing to her might impress my likeness
on her unborn child! I had never before heard such extreme be-
lief in " maternal impressions." In the evening, reached Igenja;
stopped at Ombya-ogwana's, to let Mamba ashore. My crew
was received with great joy by their mothers, at Awora's village.
J gave gifts to the mother of Bayio, and of Xtyindi-orema, and
to his sister Irina.
Next day, poor Irina quarreled with her mother, in her desire
to go with me to school : but, the mother would not consent.
Girls were too much needed for work. That night, we reached
the new clearing of the head-man, Mbanga, near Oranga.
The Sunday, August 11, was spent at Oranga, in holding serv-
ices, and teaching in the villages. There came two new appli-
cants for school.
The following day. the clay's journey was past villages where
were the homes of some of the crew, or where were living for-
mer employees ; all of whom gave us shouts of welcome, espe-
cially through the Wambalya district. In the afternoon, pulled
through the Ozugavizya (the cross-creek connecting the two
branches of the Ogowe), and stopped for the night at Ntyuwa-
guma. The head of the village was not there ; but. his young
men entertained me. I was much interested in a man, who, that
very day, had had an eye-worm extracted by native hands. The
worm had been thrown away. I was desirous to get one to
send to the United States. They were not rare, even in my own
eye; but, their extraction was rare.
By noon of the next day, I was at Kangwe Hill, glad to find
my sister in comfortable health, and welcomed by the school.
On Saturday, August 17, in going to my village services, I
was at Sonye's in Eyenano. Passing on to Mr. Lubcke's Ger-
man house. Otanga. to inquire about the probable arrival of his
Mpongice, I saw a large dead boa constrictor. The crew were
alarmed, because of a superstition that the odor of its body, if
inhaled, would rot their stomachs. On return home, though I
was glad at Sambunaga's wife's request to enter the inquiry
class. I did not consent ; for, she did not express sufficient of
motive. On Sunday, the 18th, Xtyege and Re-Ganjwe came as
inquirers.
266 MY OGOWE
On August 20, friend Azizya, from Atangina, came on a visit,
bringing with her eight or ten children, to whom I showed my
automatic toys of steamboat, mouse, and dancing-jack.
Having done so much building, I was glad that I could turn
myself to some new work, i. e., of translating, for the needs of
the school.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
I made my quarterly journey to Belambla, Thursday, August
22-26, taking with me a young man Zintango, to replace Abumba.
and Aveya's young wife, Arangi-nomie, ( Destined- for-her-hus-
band), and his sister Aziza. On the way. I took the usual
" breakfast " with Mr. Sinclair at Aguma. He handed to me a
little book, " Rest for the Weary," with my name in it. He had
found it up the Ngunye, in the hands of one of his Mpongwe
traders. I had missed it at Benita. Some one must have stolen
it there, taken it to Gaboon, passed it to Mpongwe hands, and it
had come thence to the Ngunye, 400 miles from Benita ! At
Belambla. I was not encouraged. Bakele were removing, before
the oncoming Fariwe. There was no danger; but. the large in-
coming of traders had intensified the commercial interest, and I
was begged on every side, not for education, but for gifts.
Aveya, too, had not been steadily at his post; though his ac-
counts were tolerably correct. In the morning of the 26th, as
I was arising, I heard terrific howls, somewhat like an angry ele-
phant. I ran to the landing at the water-side, and saw two hip-
popotami fighting on a sand-bank. Returned to Kangwe that
day.
At the German house, on the 17th, and more definitely on
the 22d, I had been informed that their Mpongwe had brought
supplies for them to their depot at Angala, unable to come fur-
ther because of the low water. Also, among her freight were a
quantity of goods for me, forwarded by Mr. Murphy from Libre-
ville. So, I was to go with boats, to bring up my treasures.
JOURNEY TO ANGALA.
On Wednesday the 28th, T started in the Nelly-Howard with
four oars, followed by the native boat under Agaia with six pad-
dles. I went up around the island to the main stream ; for. in
the middle of the cool-dry season, the shallows were too many
in my Kangwe branch. Stopped to inquire at the German house ;
at 1 r. m., stopped to eat at the village of Ntyege's father; passed
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 267
on to Oranga, but did not stop, as the dry season menyenge rain,
that had begun falling in the morning, continued. Sunset as we
passed Nandipo; but, we pulled on, tired. I was anxious about
the native boat which was far behind. Went on in the dark ;
and, as we passed Awora's village called to him to follow and
join our journey on the morrow. Went on to the Igenja vil-
lage. There. Mamba and Angeka were gladly welcomed by their
relatives. There, too, were lying two of Mr. Lubcke's Goree
canoes, on their way up-river, under command of a Goree, Bubu.
Agaia's boat arrived while I was eating. Neither he nor I were
well. The next day, I bought a quantity of provisions; and
added four others to my crews.
I was provoked at the assumption of the old man of the vil-
lage, in his sending me word that I should come to him, as he
wished to speak to me. As if he was not perfectly able to come
to me ! The day was rainy. Stopped at Orondo's in Ashuka, to
bargain for a hippopotamus head which I wanted as a curiosity
for some museum in the United States. Went on, past Avanga
Island ; past a new village which the Avanga people were build-
ing; and ate in the forest. Five of Air. Lubcke's canoes were
met on their way up-river, carrying his goods from Angala.
More rain fell as we passed Ngumbe. The canoe of the Goree,
Ayune, was behind us, and it stopped there. Though the rain in-
creased, we went on, passing other canoes in the Nenge-saka
channels. The rain fell sharply, and we were all wet as we
emerged again into the main stream. Passing old Njagu's (Re-
Nguwa's) town. I entered a creek on the right bank to a village
Esira, where I had never been before. The Nkami-tribe head-
man, Otando, received us well. One of his wives was a rela-
tive of one of my crew. A woman presented me with a tasteful
jomba of fish. There was there a woman in civilized dress, who
called herself " Marie," and said that she had lived at the Libre-
ville Plateau as wife of one of the Frenchmen there. A little
year-old mulatto child was creeping in the street. There was a
man who said that he had been a workman at our Baraka in
Libreville. But, I doubted him ; for, he could not tell me the
name of the missionary for whom he had worked. There was
also a man who said that he had visited on Corisco Island at the
house of Rev. J. L. Mackey while I was occupying the " Maluku "
house (1861-1865). It was true that members of the Nkami
tribe, regarding themselves as coast tribes-men, did travel (as
the Galwa and other interior tribes did not) to the sea, for em-
ployment on the coast. An old man said that he remembered
268 MY OGOWE
two missionaries from Baraka having ascended the Ogowe as
far as Esira. (It was true that Rev. Messrs. Walker and Pres-
ton, many years before, had entered the river to the distance of
about seventy miles, on a visit of inspection. But, they re-
mained only one day, made no location, went back to Libreville,
and never revisited the river.)
The next day I proceeded ; passed Nango ; stopped to eat in the
forest. Had I stopped at a village, native etiquette would have
delayed me; and, I was anxious to get back to Kangwe before the
real rainy season began. Showers were falling. Passed 5frombi ;
reaching Angala early in the afternoon; ioo miles in two and a
half days. The German. Mr. Detmering, at once began to tell
me of a fracas between the French customs officer, Xavier, and
Xdambenje and other Angala people. On examining the tally
of my boxes, I could find but fifteen. Mr. Murphy had written
to me that there were twenty. Mr. Detmering explained that
himself had already forwarded three, and perhaps more, in his
own canoes to Otanga. King Esongi came to greet me with
great ceremony, and took me to his house for a long talk, de-
fending his people against Xavier, and begging me to intercede
in his behalf with the French. I respected the old man; but, I
was always careful to avoid mixing into complications between
the natives and the Government. And, as to Xdambenje, I could
readily believe in any charge of violence against him. Ate
supper with Mr. Detmering; and went to bed in the boat.
Thoughts of the prospective troubles of the town kept me awake.
And, just as I was falling asleep, Ayune's canoe arrived. They
had a leg of hippopotamus meat, which Engineer Davies.and
John Frmy had shot. Ayune's crew kept me awake a long while,
with their talking, cooking, singing, and shouting.
On the next day, Saturday 31, I loaded the two boats, both
heavily laden, and commenced my return up the 100 miles. Ate
at 5Jombi. The little child of Onanga, to whom I had given the
two P>araka dresses, was naked. The mother said that that was
in order to save the dresses from being worn out ! Game on to
Xango, using a sail on the native boat. Though the sun was not
yet 3 p. M., I remained there for the Sunday, because the next
day's run would not bring us to any village, and I did not wish
to waste the day in the forest. Re-Buka, brother of Re-
Xtvambi. received me well. His wife, Mburu, treated me in a
manner more lady-like than I remember to have recived from
any native woman in the river. She gave me potatoes (sweet).
pa (gravy of an oily nut), pepper (fresh cayenne pods), and
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 269
lime-sauce. She would take nothing in return, saying 1 , " I would
not sell to you" (She had been a white man's wife.) There
was a woman, a young mother, young wife of old Ngwa-nyani,
who had lost both her babies. I do not remember to have seen
in Africa, such apparent regret for a dead baby. Her eyes spoke
with such a varying luster. On Sunday, September 1, I sat,
rested, preached, and taught all the crews of the two boats. The
day passed rapidly and pleasantly. Several canoes of the Ger-
man house continued on their way up-river. In the evening, Re-
Buka's brother stood in the street, and addressed my people
(Galwas) about their intertribal difficulties with the Nkami. I
did not like this ; it seemed a discourtesy, as my people had done
nothing against Nkami. But, I said nothing. Re-Buka, how-
ever, seemed to appreciate the case, and interrupted him; and,
then the brothers quarreled.
On the Monday, I gave parting presents to Re-Buka, his wife,
his father, and the young mother. The tide was in our favor;
but a heavy mist was on the river. Saw an Ajumba canoe that
had come from Orungu laden with salt, with which they were
going to the interior to buy slaves. Salt was, at that time, the
most valuable currency in the entire river, as there were no known
salt springs on the upper Ogowe (or " Okanda," as the interior
was then called). We passed and were passed by it several
times. My crews pulled well, and we passed the three canoes of
Sunday, and stopped at Olende Island in its forest to eat. From
there. I set up the Nelly-Hoivard's two sails. It sailed well : past
my native boat ; past the three companion canoes of Mr. Lubcke.
With wind alone, I kept ahead of all the others. Passed Esira.
At Yambe. the wind was very strong, and sailing was splendid.
On, among the Nenge-saka Islands. Shortly after sunset,
stopped for the night, in the forest ; and had food already cooked
for all before Agaia overtook us. There was a young moonlight,
and all were well and merry.
On the next day, started early. Heard hippopotami fighting
across the river. Tide still was in our favor. On to Ngumbe ;
saw Isagi, and bought some eggs. On. and ate in the forest
near the new Avanga village, the head-man of which, Ogula, by
name, came to remonstrate with me for not coming to his place,
and for eating in the forest, fit is true that I almost always
combined preaching with journeys, and, for that purpose, slept
at and took my meals, as far as possible, in some village. But.
on that journey. I was hasting to get my valuable goods to their
safe end before the rains should begin.) Again rowing, passed
270 MY OGOWE
the three German canoes, and put up sail near Asange Island.
Stopped at Ashuka, and got the hippo skull, for which 1 had bar-
gained on my way down-river. I had a bad headache, and had
eaten only a pineapple; but, I continued to hold the tiller-ropes,
as we were sailing very rapidly, and, my Galwas were not
familiar with sails. By sunset, I had reached Mamba's village;
stopped to let off him and two others; and I proceeded, with
only two to Awora's. Landed, and attempted to go into the
huts ; but, was too sick. I ate nothing, and went back to sleep in
the boat. The people were very sympathetic.
On Wednesday the 4th, I was well: went ashore, and was wel-
comed. Irina's mother consented that she should come to school.
Bayio's mother would not allow his little brother, Nyanda, to
come. The child cried piteously to be permitted to go with me.
The kongongo, in which, on August 16. I had allowed eight of
the Igenja boys to go on vacation to their homes, was put into
the water; and all three crafts started off with great eclat!
Stopped at Oranga, before dark; and, at night, had a good meet-
ing in the street. The next day, proceeded with at times the
wind ; at others, with only oars ; stopping to eat at the village of
one of the crew, Ntyege. It was quite a test of his devotion to
his work that he did not run away or ask to be allowed to stay,
though his people wished him to do so. The water at the large
entrance to Lake Onanga was very swift, and swirled around
the rocks opposite to a new Fanwe village. At sunset, stopped
in a pleasant cove, Abango, on the main stream. Felt well, in the
prospect of ending the journey next day. The night was moon-
light : and T enjoyed the evening prayers ashore with the crews.
The lights of the camp-fires of the three companion canoes were
bright on the other side of the river.
The next day, pulled on rapidly; and, after passing Kumule-
kwe's village, put up sail, and proceeded very rapidly with sail
alone. When in sight of the German house, stopped to cook, and
had all food ready when the two other crafts came up. Went on
to Mr. Lubcke's house, and found my two missing packages (one
barrel of flour, and a box of sugar). The three crafts made a
'display of boatsongs as we pulled around Eyenano at the head of
the island ; and. soon were at Kangwe landing. I found my
sister tolerably well. The crews, in good spirits, worked sys-
tematically and steadily, in unloading, in hauling the crafts into
the shed, and in carrying the boxes and barrels up the steep hill :
until all was happily completed by 4 p. m. In the evening, I held
an enthusiastic inquiry class; more than fifteen present.
TWT.M WTXF GOURD P.OTTT.FS
Facing page 27 1
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 271
On Sunday, September 8, my own household of thirty filled the
little ikenga (reception-room) of the house, and I added seats for
expected strangers. The Mpongwe Ngeza and his wife Makeki,
came. Also, Laseni. But, I was beginning to doubt the latter :
and I did not invite him to my table when I brought the other
two. And, remembering the greediness of their followers on a
former occasion, I did not give out food to any of them.
The next morning, Monday, Laseni came to see me, with a
long written complaint against his wife Alida, (Ngwanjanga).
I did not believe them, at that time; but, subsequently, I had
reason to consider his charges well founded; yet, himself was not
blameless. Headache, from a fever chill of the previous night
(a common sequela after a journey's exposure) prevented any
translation work in the afternoon.
On September 10, I made a record in my diary, "This is the
eighth anniversary of my wife's death ; eight long and weary
years! " On September 11, went in the kongongo, on a report
that Re-Nkombe's people had been trespassing on my premises,
and that they had built a dry season fishing-camp while I was
absent down-river. I found their deserted ulako, and tore down
the remainder of their huts. Evidently, the camp was still being
occupied ; for, there were enormous quantities of chigoes ; thou-
sands got into my shoes, on my feet, and in my clothing. Much
of the remainder of the day, I could do scarcely anything else but
pick off the insects. In the evening, in the ikenga, the boys were
enjoying themselves in various ways, with stereoscope, sewing,
lessons, pictures, jack-straws, etc., etc. That night, I did not
sleep well; for (not entirely imagination) I felt the chigoes still
crawling over me.
While at work with my people in the forest next day, at a log,
I saw that three palm-trees had been cut, for palm-wine. I dis-
covered a man, Anyigei, who fled. I pursued and captured him;
broke his palm-wine pots ; and seized his hatchet and knife.
Those trespasses on premises were one of the great annoyances
in my African life. (But they exist not only in heathen coun-
tries. Farmers, in the United States, annually are outraged by
trespassing hunters.)
The next day, one of Re-Xkombe's women brought me a pres-
ent of boiled eddoes, and dried fish stewed in palm-oil. I think
that it was a peace-offering for Anyigei's offense. In the even-
ing, after inquiry class meeting, I instituted an inquirer's prayer
meeting, to be led by the five professing Christians. (That was
before I had heard anything about " Christian Endeavor.")
-/-
MY OGOWE
On September 14, Manoel, a Portuguese slave-refugee, who
had worked with Mr. Menkel at Mbade house, Benita, and on
the Hudson, but who had deserted at Libreville, came to me for
employment. It was quite probable that he had just reasons for
leaving Mr. Menkel; but. I would not openly approve of deser-
tion; and refused him. At Aguma. in the afternoon. I saw my
dear Mpongwe friend Njivo and her husband Dowe, arrived
there already four days from his trading-place. Her duties
to him had kept her from coming to see my sister, who
might have found comfort in her lady-like society. A letter ar-
rived from Libreville, from Mr. Murphy, saying that the French
had seized as prisoner at Angala, old King Esongi. for the " pa-
laver " between his son Xdambenje and the French customs of-
ficial. In Africa, scarcely any native was safe, before a for-
eign tribunal, on even a trumped-up complaint made by any white
man. and especially by a white official. The victim's wife or
daughter was often the price of his release.
My pet monkey seemed to be dying on the T/th; and. as I
saw nothing of it next day, I suppose it had gone off and died.
Several Orungus came to sell a large full-grown male antelope,
an adult nibalanya (Benga). (in Kombe, mondimo; in Mpongwe
nkambi). T had never seen one so large. Gave $6 for it.
Spent the morning in skinning and dressing it. Sent a hind
quarter to Mr. Sinclair; retaining the other hind quarter for sis-
ter and myself. I gave the remainder of the animal to the boys
as a four days' supply of meat.
Hearing that some of Re-Nkombe's people were actually build-
ing on my premises at Andende creek. T went there on Friday the
joth. to inspect. Then, T went to Atangina. to complain. If
he was there, he did not appear: his head-wife said that her slaves
had done it. and that it should be stopped. It was a hungry time :
plantains were almost finished; and T had to give out farinya for
food, which the boys did not prefer. Under the temptation,
Ntyindiorema stole some of the few remaining plantains; and.
f suspended him from the inquiry class.
In writing, on September 21. to son Charles, an account of the
sea- journey from Gaboon, and my seasickness on the Hudson.
the memory of the intense distress \ had endured nauseated me!
It was a most remarkable physiological and psychological fact.
None of my mission-associates appreciated how I suffered. And.
T have not often been able to make any one else understand what
1 endured during twenty-five years, in boats and steamers, on the
sea.
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 273
For the Saturday village meeting. I went to Eyenano, where
I had a good audience, notwithstanding the fact that the village
had just been having a " palaver " about a man and his wife.
The young Kombe man, Petiye, one of my sister's ministerial
candidates, was very intelligent. He inquired about European
history and Protestantism. I showed him, in Motley's " Rise
of the Dutch Republic," the life of one of the Nassau family an-
cestors, William, Prince of Orange and Nassau.
At the morning service of the 22d, there was a large company
of women and children ; but, they did not remain to Sabbath
school. There was some thunder, but no lightning. I would
have thought that the rainy season had come, were it not that the
river had not begun to rise, which it always did in advance of
any rain (from heavy rains in the far Interior).
I had been almost entirely out of fresh food other than farinya
for my people ; the usual scarcity at the close of the long cool-
dry season. But, now, fresh food began to come not only from
Atangina and Ntyuwa-guma, but even from Ajumba. I was
writing long letters all day, morning, afternoon, and evening, to
my children in the United States. Re-Nkombe's slaves con-
tinued their annoying attempt to occupy my Andende ground.
I had sent Awora in the kongongo down-river to buy food.
He returned on the 25th with eighty bunches of plantains!
What should I do with them all ! Orondo of Ashuka came to
sell fish. After I had sent my letters to Aguma. to go by a
messenger whom Mr. Sinclair was sending overland to Libreville.
I entertained Orondo with stereoscope, automatic steamer, jack-
straws, melodeon, alphabet blocks, etc.
On the 26th my diary makes an uncomfortable record, which
I mention, only to illustrate a superstition : " The schoolgirls
made difficulty to-day; their lousy hair had been cut off yester-
day ; and. thev, instead of throwing it away, had hidden it in their
food-box ! They stated that they intended to send it to their
parents, there being some belief that they might be injured if it
fell into the hands of strangers! "
My sister had not been well for a long time : but. feeling: that
a little excursion might benefit her. I sent her. on the 28th. in
the X ell x-H award, a two hours' ride with six of the most care-
ful and gentlemanly of my young men. The river was rapidly
rising, and heavy rains might be expected any day. That night
there was lightning.
And. next day, Sunday, the rainy season set in. preventing
people from coming to service. But. I had my own household :
274 MY OGOWE
and in the evening, they evidently enjoyed the song - service; for,
they wished me to continue, when I was ready to stop.
Monday the 30th was a beautifully bright clear day. Rainy
season had fully come. The dull skies of the dry season were
gone. There was blue sky. white clouds, fresh green leaves,
bright open spots, and cool shadows, and balmy breezes.
Sambunaga's wife was quarreling with him in the evening of
October 1 . She threatened to go away to Atangina : I almost
hoped that she would go, and thus save me the task of dismissing
her; for, she was not a pleasant member of the household.
On Thursday the 30th, Bayio thought that he could not climb
palm trees, when I directed him to trim a certain one, I was sure
that his objection did not rest on inability; so. I gave him the job
of trimming them all. With the rapidly rising water, the sand-
banks were being covered.
A disagreeable young man, Mbama. who claimed Irina as his
betrothed, came to complain of his not having been consulted be-
fore she was allowed to come to school. The river was rising so
very fast, that I could almost, in an interval of a few hours, see
how the sand-bars were being covered. On the 4th, I restored
Ntyindiorema to the inquiry class.
Bayio objecting still to the job of trimming palm-trees, I dis-
missed him for the day. On going that day to the Saturday
meeting at Atangina, I saw there Anyigei who was continuing
his trespassing. I said nothing to him. as I had left his case with
Re-Nkombe. There were beautiful moonlights, fantastic shad-
ows on the hill-side, sweet odors from flowering plants on the
night air.
On Sunday. October 6. some Fan we came to sell " bush-
lights " (okume- gum torches). They had been to Mr. Sinclair
at Aguma. and had been told that the day was " Sabbath." and
purchases could not be made. They were disappointed in finding
that it was Sabbath at Kangwe also. At Sabbath school, there
were a dozen children from Atangina. In the evening, my sis-
ter was sick and confined to bed. On the Monday. T dismissed
Sambunaga's wife, and allowed him to go to take her to his peo-
ple. Xext day. Bayio finally accepted his job. and found that he
could both climb and trim palm-trees. The Pioneer, which had
been laid on a sand-bar all the dry season, for repairs, was now
afloat, and would soon go to Claboon. T send a mail by her, with
the Kombe young man Ijabi, who would return to his home at
Benita. And. in his place, I established Mamba ;is teacher in
the vernacular school, leaving only the few English pupils for my
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 275
sister. And, to relieve her in the domestic affairs, Mamba was
also to be her assistant, as " steward," in directing the serv-
ants.
On October 11, I took notice of my forty-third anniversary
birthday. Observing how weak my sister seemed to be, and
going over my four strenuous years in the Ogowe, for the time,
I began to doubt as to my duty to remain much longer (though
I was in comparatively good health). And, as I was planning
the building of a new outhouse for shop and carpenter work, I
began to feel anxious as to what would become of the station, if
no relief was sent me from the United States. For the Saturday
meeting of the 12th, I went to Ijuke-jame's Akele village. His
people listened better than I had thought Bakele would. At
Aguma I met Ngeza and his wife Makeki. They told me that
Laseni's charges against his wife Alida were not true. [Yet,
they became true, later. And, they both wandered far. A sis-
ter of his was one of the many wives of an educated polygamist,
" John Harrington " or Sonye, of Libreville. Alida was daugh-
ter of another of Sonye's wives. Laseni was, therefore, in a
certain sense, her " uncle," though no blood relative. They
both were highly educated. Even in his subsequent fall, he
never became a drunkard, and kept his status as a gentleman.
She sank very low.]
On Sunday, October 13. there was great firing of guns as
salute and welcome and rejoicing at the arrival of some of the
Atangina people from their semi-annual journey to the Okanda
interior, with a canoe-load of slaves. To illustrate the mixed
population of the Kangwe region, at morning service, were Ngeza
and wife (Mpongwe), they remained to Sabbath school; and
children from Atangina (Galwa) ; and young men (Bakele)
from Ijuke-jame's. My Saturday afternoon visits generally
brought some people to Sunday meeting; otherwise, most of the
natives knew nothing of the calendar.
On the night of the 18th. I was annoyed by the late talking in
the boys' house ; and, I could say nothing, for the leaders in it
were two of the teachers, ministerial candidates, Petiye and
Kongolo. During the day, busy at the carpenter-shop building.
Late at night, came a messenger from Aguma with word that
Lieutenant Count P. S. DeBrazza. of the French exploring ex-
pedition, had arrived from the Interior, in destitution. On Sun-
day, the 20th, no persons from the villages at services. But,
shortly after the close of meeting, a man and some women, from
Zintango's village in Wombalya, came with plantains to sell. Of
276 MY OGOWE
course, they did not know it was Sunday. I told them to await
at the lower hut by the ravine, until next day.
Little Lucy again noisy in Sabbath school. My sister sick,
and confined to her bed.
On Monday, October 21, I was collecting supplies of clothing,
shoes, soap, etc., etc., and was about to start to Aguma to offer
them to Count DeBrazza, and to express my welcome to him and
his expedition, when, just as I was ready, the count and Dr.
Ballay arrived to make a visit of courtesy on sister and myself.
(Their needs had already been supplied by Mr. Sinclair.) After
their short call, I escorted them back to Aguma, to the 1 1 a. m.
breakfast. I was interested in seeing their Akanda men weav-
ing native cloth (mis-called " grass cloth " ; from undeveloped
leaflets of the palm) ; saw the variety of types of tribes from the
Interior; was deeply interested in their account of the dangers
and travels of the expedition. On my return, bought a little
fawn as a pet for my sister. (But, two days later the delicate
little thing died.)
On Thursday, October 24, about 10:30 a. m.. Count DeBrazza,
Dr. Ballay. their quartermaster, and Mr. Sinclair, came, on our
return invitation, to " breakfast.'' They remained until after 3
p. m. It was a rare occasion of civilized courtesies in our life on
the Ogowe. The count presented me with his dog " Black,"
which had been with him in all his Interior journey.
The village for the afternoon services of Saturday the 26th,
was a new little place on the river opposite to Kangwe. Then, as
usual. I went on to Aguma, for business at the trading-house.
There. Count DeBrazza called together his eleven Interior peo-
ple (his other employees were coast-men) and showed them to
me. one by one, four men. six women, and one little child. On re-
turning. I found my sister again sick in bed. with a very bad
headache. At night, my lady-like Mpongwe friend Njivo, her
husband Dowe. and her aunt Anyure, arrived. Njivo had a
badly ulcerated breast, for which she had come for treatment.
At night of Sunday the 27th. about 7 o'clock, Mr. Sinclair
sent an enormous delayed mail, which had come overland, sent
by Mr. Murphy. T opened his note, and found the announce-
ment of the death of my mother, on June 2T. And, on opening a
letter from my son "William, there was the added sorrow of the
death of my father, on August 6. Three months before! T
told no one. nor made any sign, not even to my sister. Tn her
weak state I was afraid she could not endure it.
Next morning. Monday, October 28. at the close of morning
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 277
prayers, in a few words, I told my household of my parents' de-
parture ; and, then, immediately went to my sister's room, and, as
gently as I could, broke the tidings to her. I dismissed all work,
for the day. The household was awed. My entire absence of
demonstration of grief was so unlike the screams and wails at
their mournings. Then, I read the mail to my sister. Among
the letters were two from our father.
On Tuesday the 29th, I allowed the employees to work ; but, I
did not superintend them. Stayed most of the morning with
my sister, who was a little better. Njivo's husband Dowe re-
turned to his trading-post, leaving her at Kangwe in my care
for medication. At evening prayer meeting I read Psalm 90, 12 ;
and occupied the occasion with thoughts on the death of my
parents.
On the 30th, three of DeBrazza's Okanda people came to see
me and the house. They said that they had heard that " God
lived there." In talking with them, one of them expressed his
firm disbelief that their tribe could ever change, so far as to be
civilized like white people. I did not think that it was because
he was not willing or would not wish for such civilization, but
that he was hopeless, seeing the wide present difference between
us.
On November 1, I did not superintend out of doors; but, in
the morning, rereading the recently received letters, in the af-
ternoon began to respond to them. There came a consolatory
note from Count DeBrazza. At night, there was great dancing
and shouting down at the lower hut. Going there to stop it, I
found all my best young men engaged in it. I felt very much
depressed over it. It seemed so heartless, while my sister and I
were in sorrow. Perhaps my having left the young men without
work suggested their play. Possibly also, my having shown no
signs of grief may have caused them to think that I was not
grieving. Also, it was their own native custom, at the close of
the days of mourning, to " wash away " the tears with a feast
and dance. Next morning, I dismissed, for the day, the nine
participants in the night's affair ; and gave a long rebuke person-
ally to two of them, Petiye and Kongolo, who received it in good
spirit. Count DeBrazza and the quartermaster came to " break-
fast," and said good-by. My sister gave the count a shell-orna-
ment that pleased him. He kindly took my Winchester rifle
with him to Libreville to be repaired. The nine offenders came
in the evening, to ask forgiveness. Had been so busy writing
letters for the United States that I did not make my usual Sat-
278 MY OGOWE
urday visit to the villages. On Monday, the 4th, the Pioneer
was seen steaming out of the river, at 7 a. m. DeBrazza and his
company were on it. on their way to Gaboon. At noon, came a
messenger from Mr. Sinclair, with farewell notes, which the
count and Dr. Ballay had written to me.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
The dog, Black, who had l>een accustomed to go everywhere
with his former master, wanted to follow me, on Tuesday, No-
vember 5. I made my usual stop at Aguma, and was there told
by a new clerk, a Mr. Surry, who recently had been transferred
from Batanga, some facts about our mission-work there that
gratified me. We had no white missionaries there (and, at that
time, had no intention of ever sending any) but, we had a
church and native workers. Mr. Surry spoke well of the Chris-
tians of the Banaka tribe, and believed that the Evangelist
Bevinye was true to his work. [ In later years, he sadly de-
teriorated.]
In stopping for the night at Anyambe-jena's, I was pleased
to see that the people, especially the women, were cleaner and
better dressed than formerly. On arriving at Belambla in the
following afternoon, I found few people. They were generally
away at their plantation camps. Aveya and his little wife
seemed well and happy. The grass at my unfortunate little out-
station was beautifully green and well-kept: and, the fruit-trees
were doing well. But, there was no spiritual fruit being borne
by the hard-hearted Bakele.
The next day, as the people had not come to me, I went to
them, a mile distant, at Ntambi's village. Many persons were
there; and one man pleased me by his intelligence and frankness.
Ntambi himself was reported not to be there. But, really, he
was, and had hidden himself, being afraid (as I was told) " of
God and Nassau." I think I never got to the end of Akele
superstition. And. I could not understand the inconsistency
(since the robbery of my house) why, if the people were afraid
of me. they continued their wrong-doing as to property trespass.
I walked through Kasa's old village, where 1 had lived four
years before, and where I had not been for two years. New
villages had sprung up. There were accounts to settle with
the Belambla employees. Apekwe, a son of former King
Onderie. called to see me.
Before I left, in the morning of Friday, November 8, I had
an unpleasant talk with Jongaiie. I had recognized him as
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 279
Kasa's successor; and, yet, he instead of protecting the prem-
ises, was one of those who were stealing the grounds! Also, a
talk about Delanja having threatened to shoot Aveya, because
the latter had advised me not to give him (Delanja) presents!
It was very distressing that the sole interest of the Bakele in me
and Belambla seemed to be the obtaining of gifts, showing
no interest at all in the Heavenly Gift. On the way down, I
met the French gun-boat La Vallctte. The commander (and
Mr. Lubcke, who was a passenger) invited me on board, and
politely offered me "breakfast." (I had had my food cooked
before starting, and, on the way, I had stopped at Avyake's to
warm it. But, the villagers were so evidently afraid of me that
I went away. ) I had made no threats ; and had been patient
as to the Akele robbery. But, perhaps the fact that their two
great chiefs, Kasa and Ondehe, my professed friends, who had
failed to defend me in that wrong, had both died within two
years after it, may have made people think that I had an " evil-
eye " for wrong-doers. I decided that it was useless for me
to look any longer to the false chiefs for defense of Belambla
property. I entered complaint with the Commander against
Walinja and Delanja. (Ogombe-denge was on board, in
chains.) Stopping at Aguma, I found that Chief Magisi was
having a " palaver " with Mr. Sinclair about purchase of food
and the price of tobacco-leaf (the commonest article of barter-
money). On to Kangwe early; and exceedingly alarmed my
sister's nerves, by discharging a gun in the yard. (I carried
loaded guns in the boat, but required them to be emptied before
taking them into the house.)
My bamboo building-material was all used; and, on the 9th, I
sent to Re-Tandi at Atangina, who owed me some. He returned
word that " it was not dried yet." I did not believe that; and,
I saw him go to attend the " palaver " at Aguma. I suspected
his object. At noon, his canoe returned, and his crew was
shouting, as they passed the Hill, to my people, that no more
food would be allowed to be brought to Kangwe from Nkami,
etc. It was a boycott, like the Ukuku law of the coast tribes.
My Saturday afternoon meeting was at Atangina that day. I
referred to the proposed boycott. Re-Nkombe (of course) de-
nied any complicity, and said that it was " King " Magisi who
had issued the decree. But, his hard cruel tone assured me that
he was a " sympathy " striker along with Magisi. Nevertheless,
his sister Azizya, in her devoted friendship for me, and because
2 8o MY OGOWE
she was sending provisions " on account," dared, when I left, to
give me plantain bunches on that account. I was very much
depressed ; and remembering the power of Ukuku and its savage
assault at Benita ten years before, I yielded to my fears, and
planned to dismiss all but ten of the school, as I had food on
hand for less than two days. My sister was more hopeful, and
read a helpful verse from her book of " Daily Readings." Mr.
Lubcke and the commander made a call. They told me that
he had settled the Belambla affair of Walinja and Delanja.
Then, I told him about Magisi's " strike " action ; and about the
trespassing of Re-Nkombe's people on the Kangwe premises,
and asked him to sign the deed of the property, in order that it
might have a firmer impression in the eyes of the natives. He
was quite willing to do so ; but. I preferred to have it done on
some other day than Sunday. When he went, he said that he
would arrest Magisi. I was just on the point of sending away
the fourteen boys, when Agaia returned from Adalinananga, and
said that Magisi sent me word that his law did not apply to me,
but only to Mr. Sinclair; and, that, as a proof of his good-will,
himself would send me food on Monday. So. I dismissed no
one. But, I sent nine of them, in the kongongo, even under a
heavy rain, to buy food away down at Ntyege's village, whither
I thought the boycott had not reached. Just at prayer time, in
the evening, came a man from Wombalya, of Nguva's village
(a dozen miles away) with six bunches of plantains. I felt
ashamed that I had had so little faith that God would provide.
On Sunday, November 10, no people came to services. Heard
firing at Adalinananga town, near Aguma. And, in the even-
ing, was told that Magisi had been arrested.
On Monday, the i ith, Agaia went to Aguma, to hear the news.
He came back with a long story of the capture of Magisi; and,
of the threats of the latter's people against another Galwa,
Re-Vege, (an opponent of Magisi) that they would burn his town.
etc. I received a comfortable impression of the power of the
French Government over those natives.
On the 14th, Azizya came to ask whether I would buy plan-
tains from her. She seemed to be afraid that I would refuse,
because of the trouble with which her brother had threatened
me about food, on the preceding Saturday. She said that that
trouble was ended. In the evening, the kongongo. which I had
sent on that very Saturday, in expectation of a food-boycott, re-
turned with a great quantity of plantains.
After mv services in Kolo village on Saturday the if>th, T went
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 281
to Aguma, and heard from Mr. Sinclair, his account of the ar-
rest of Magisi by the French. A very busy hour, on my return
to the Hill : hurriedly to pay for a load of building-bamboo that
had just arrived, and which I was much needing: to hand out
the boys' rations: to dress Njivo's sore breast: to listen to and
refuse an application for school from a young man of Adali-
nananga; and then sit down to supper.
On Monday the 18th, went to Aguma, where I found the
Pioneer just arrived. Returned, and took with me, for an ex-
cursion, Njivo and her aunt. Went to Otanga, and got boxes
of goods which had arrived at the German house, by the
Mpongwe. I noticed in my changes of health, a variation in the
desire for particular articles of food. In the United States, I had
eaten onions, but never with any longing, though I was always
told that they were a very healthful article. In Africa, and
especially toward the end of my terms, when strength was fail-
ing, I had an extreme longing for the onion. They were not
grown by the river tribes, and I could get them, only as luxuries,
from the ocean steamers. On that 18th I had obtained some
from the Mpongwe. I enjoyed them extremely. On Wednesday
the 26th, I heard that the Pioneer would be at Lake Azingo on
December 1, on its way to Gaboon. Mr. Sinclair, in his kind in-
terest for my sister, who continued in her weak state of health,
urged that she should go to the lake to meet the vessel, in order
for her to reach Libreville, rather than attempt to go with me in
my boat, on my expected journey for our Annual Mission and
Presbytery meetings. But, she did not wish to go quite so soon ;
the meetings not being due until January. Mr. Sinclair there-
fore went without her, on the 28th, kindly stopping on his way,
at Kangwe, to repeat his offer. And. on Saturday the 30th. my
lady-friend Njivo and her husband also left, for Lake Azingo,
expecting to meet the Pioneer.
One of my regular daily afternoon occupations was a retrans-
lation of the four Gospels in Benga. Each had been translated
many years before, by the four Corisco pioneers. Their works
needed harmonizing. This I was doing with the aid of Can-
didate Kongolo.
On Wednesday, December 4, we felt justified in sister's not
having gone to Lake Azingo: for. Njivo's husband returned
from the lake, leaving her there with Mr. Sinclair, the Pioneer
not having yet arrived. And. next day. the 5th, messengers
came to Aguma from the Lake to get food for Mr. Sinclair,
who was still waiting there.
282 MY OGOWE
I had been unwell for several days, and could not conduct
services on Sunday the 8th. Kongolo took my place in the
morning 1 . At noon, came Laseni and his wife Alida, with other
Mpongwe people, Mrs. Owondo-Lewis, and one of her children,
and their boat's crew. I was able to teach Sabbath school.
After school, Alida came to me in my study, to tell me of her
husband's ill-treatment of her. On Monday the 9th, I rearranged
the hours of Petiye and Kongolo, so that they were at manual
labor only one and a half hours each morning; thus they were
given two additional hours for study. They also were directed
to take a study-hour in the evening, instead of that time being
wasted in the usual idle conversations in the boys' houses.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
The quarterly inspection of Belambla was to be made, espe-
cially before leaving for Gaboon. On Friday, December 20,
with Petiye and a good crew in the Nelly-Hozvard, and two lads
in a canoe, which I was taking for service at Belambla. a com-
fortable start was made. Opposite the Ngunye, stopped to buy
food. I had abundance at Kangwe ; but. not wishing its encum-
brance in the boat, I expected to buy on the way. But, the vil-
lage was without food : their crops had failed.
I gave a woman a gift. As she did not thank me, I instructed
her in the duty of thanks. To my surprise, she did not know
the word! This was the more astonishing; for, the word akc:'a
(" thanks ") was a well-known and commonly used one. While
stopping to rest in the forest opposite Tazie, the crew found in
a pit, the bones of a hippopotamus. Pits were dug by the natives.
in which to trap elephants and hippopotami. Evidently, this pit
was an old abandoned one, which the owner no longer visited ;
and, the animal falling into it, had not been discovered, and had
died there. Reached Anyambi-jena's before sundown, intending
to go ashore for the night. But, T found that his people were
actually suffering from famine. T therefore did not remain,
fearing lest my crew's limited supply of food would be stolen by
the hungry people. So, T slept in the boat, with two of the crew,
after I had preached ashore. But. I did not sleep well, being
anxious about possible robbery. Three persons had died there
during the previous five days. I would probably be supposed to
l>e the cause of their death.
For, the next day, when I met Mr. Sinclair coming down-
river (he had returned from Fake Azingo, and had come up-
river to inspect his trading-houses) lie told trie that the super-
OX THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 283
stitious Bakele held me responsible for the river's inundation!
As I passed along, I saw many villages abandoned, where the
water had overflowed. Arrived at Belambla, I made some re-
pairs to the house; and went over Aveya's accounts, which were
not satisfactory: he had overrun the limit. I saw then that poor
Belambla was going down. Its trees were growing, and the
grounds in good order. And the villages quiet, only because
their inhabitants were away. But, Aveya was doing very little
good, not even guarding the houses from white ants. I re-
turned to Kangwe on Monday the 23d, and began to make ar-
rangements for the journey to Gaboon.
On Tuesday, December 24, I went to Aguma, to leave at their
homes the girl Iguve and three boys, and my dog Black, and my
male goat. On Wednesday the 25th, I did not think of the day
being " Christmas," until I had been awhile risen. And, I for-
got it during most of the day, and took no notice of it among my
people. For, I was busy taking account of goods on hand, for
my annual settlement with the Mission-treasurer. I had much
to examine, going to and fro on the premises. The employees
were behaving quietly; I had excused them from work; for, I
had not time to superintend them. Moreover, Christmas meant
so little to me, away from civilization and the cherished love of
friends, in a land of heathenism and among a people, with most
of whom their only idea of " Kis-mus " was that it was a day
on which all white people were to be begged for gifts.
JOURNEY TO GABOON.
With my sister in my boat, I started from Kangwe in the
afternoon of December 26. Emerging, from Ozugavizya cross-
creek, into the main stream, I stopped at Aveya's village, Gi-
nigo, to let off his brother Onganga. and- his sister Aziza. Cross-
ing the river to Xtyege's village, went ashore, for a service, and
then returned to sleep in the boat. Next day, I wished to show
to my sister the beauty of the Lake Region. So, instead of
keeping on down-river. I turned through the second entrance,
into Lake Onanga, and pulled on to Dowe's trading-village. I
wished to see him, and take word of him to his wife Njivo in
Libreville. It was late in the morning when we reached his
place, and we were hungry. He prepared a fowl for us. The
Galwas of that place were very rude-looking, and seemed afraid
of us. We held a short service, and left. Stopped at another
village, and had an interesting service. But, the inhabitants
were not well acquainted with white people. One man told me
284 MY OGOWE
that he had heard of me as " the man who did not allow noise."
Emerged from the lake by its exit at Ngomu ; and, crossing the
river, stopped for the night at Oranga. The next day, on, down-
river; stopping at Nandipo, to see friend Azaze. But, he was
not there; and, his people were so rude, and were so persistently
begging, that I left, and went to eat at another place. At Igenja
early in the afternoon, and were welcomed. I refused to con-
verse with the disagreeable old man who claimed to be Abumba's
" father," and who, on a former occasion, had assumed offensive
authority as the head of the village.
Sunday, December 29, was a pleasant day, with preaching,
teaching, and reading. Mamba's mother professed to have
serious thoughts about her soul; and Manja's wife, Isinga, said
that she still prayed. On Monday, the 30th, I tried to start
early; but the crew were dilatory, Igenja being the home of sev-
eral of them. And, that old man so annoyed me, that I got off
unpleasantly. Stopped at Ashuka, to see my " friends " Orondo
and Re-Teno. I rejected a gift of the former, because he, hav-
ing given it, immediately begged for something in return. This
was a frequent experience. I fully recognized the native custom
of exchange of gifts between friends. But, when a native's
cupidity so overcame him, that, having given me his gift, he
could not wait even a half-hour for me to take my own conven-
ience in making a return, but would immediately ask for a re-
turn, I always promptly returned the gift, and gave nothing.
Found the new Avanga village deserted ; but, we built a fire. I
ate but little; for, I had a headache (a very frequent thing on
my journeys). Stopped a little while at Ngumbe, to see Isagi ;
and, then, on to Esira, for the night, with a very bad headache.
The village was redolent of rotten fish.
The next day on to Rango, where we ate. The man Re-Buka
and his wife Mburu were most attentive to us. On to Rombi
to buy mats which I had engaged; but, the people so haggled
about price, that I refused to buy at all. In. all my life, I have
never known how to haggle. And, in my Ogowe life, I never
was able to adopt the oriental commercial point of view. In
that viewpoint the native African begins by asking a price double
of what he knows he is willing finally to accept. He delights
in having a long and excited discussion, gradually coming down
from his stipulated price. Perhaps it would have saved me
some provoking experiences, if I could patiently have gone
through such discussions. It might have made me more pop-
ular; and I might oftener have obtained the article I wished to
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 285
buy. But, I could not. I would throw aside the article, and
passed on, sometimes visibly provoked ; for, I knew that I had
honestly offered a fair and just price.
On to Angala. The French customs officer, Xavier, had, as
his " wife," a very interesting Mpongwe woman. I slept in the
boat ; but, during the night, had to go ashore, on account of a
heavy rain.
On New Year's day, January 1, 1879, ^ ie start was late, as Ave
had to wait for the rain to cease. Stopped in the forest to eat
at " The Palm-tree." As the mangroves that entirely occupied
the miles nearest the sea, decreased (to a traveler coming up-
river) and other trees began to appear, there was one notably big
palm-tree that was quite a land-mark. My sister, for whose sake
I had traveled slowly, quite enjoyed the forest scene. Emerged
at the mouth of the river at the hour, 5 p. m.. usual in my engage-
ments with the lay missionary, Mr. Menkel, captain of the Hud-
son. But, no vessel was in sight. To secure a comfortable rest-
place for my sister before darkness should fall, I went for the
night to Ngwa-nyani's village; we were hospitably entertained.
The village, from which, less than three years previously had
come a portion of the mob of men under Aziza-njele, that as-
sailed me and Mr. Reading! The next morning, Thursday, Jan-
uary 2. with a comfortable supply of nicely roasted fish, we
pulled out into the bay and met the Hudson coming in slowly
under oars, as the wind was against her. Going alongside. I
put mv sister on board, and decided to go on to Libreville under
sail of the boat. For a boat's motion was less sea-sickening
than that of the Hudson. Sailed well and easily all morning,
keeping ahead of the Hudson. I was not nauseated, although I
ate food. (On the Hudson I would fast.) Taught Abumba,
Akendenge and Angeka, how to hold a rudder. On the river,
they were skilful paddlers, accustomed to guide a canoe with a
paddle. But, they knew nothing about sails.
Later on. when far out at sea. the Hudson passed us. "When
off Round Hill, I turned in toward the shore, so as to be able
to recognize points of land at night. Then, I alone held the rud-
der for six hours, from sun-down to moon-down. The boat
sailed well, unexpectedly so: for, from its long narrow shape, it
was intended only for smooth waters. The water, that night.
was dangerously rough. At the mouth of the Gaboon River are
a succession of points, which, at night, I four times mistook.
Finally, at 2 a. m. of January 3, I anchored by Sandy Point, at
the entrance to the estuary. At daylight. I saw the Hudson at
286 MY OGOWE
the other side of the estuary. My sail had broken. So. after
making - a cup of tea ashore, we rowed the ten miles across, and
landed our luggage by noon. The Hudson was still laboring,
against wind and tide, in effort to reach its Baraka anchorage.
With my boat lightened of all luggage, I put off to the vessel's
side, and brought my sister safely and comfortably ashore. I
was at Libreville three weeks. Not because there was so much
business to do; nor because, as in the case of my sister, I needed,
on score of health. But, always, at the semi-annual meetings, I
was detained, in waiting for some one of the little river steamers
(which had no scheduled times) to carry me back. When those
steamers had no early date (as always at the July meeting) I
had to depend on the painfully slow Hudson to take me to the
Ogowe mouth ; when, a week's pull took me in my boat, up-river.
On this three weeks' stay, I w r as not unoccupied. There were
visits to my native friends, especially Mrs. Boardman, Mrs.
Kirkwood, and the lady Njivo. On one Sunday, the 5th, I was
not well, and took no part in the morning service ; but, enjoyed
the afternoon Communion Table, where I baptized Abumba.
Part of the time, I was sick in bed (this was always a result of
the exposures and excitements of the journey).
The man Schorsch had kept cognizance of our date for meet-
ings, and had returned to Libreville. It was true that he was
still legally a member of presbytery, though not of mission. His
attempt to enter the sessions of the latter were hindered. His
entrance to presbytery could not be debarred. But, we required
him to keep order. And. as he had no written " reports " to
make, nor had been put on any committee, lie presently disap-
peared. As clerk, both of mission and presbytery. I had much
writing to do. There were errands to the trading-houses to buy
supplies. I rode on the mission horse " Bob." With him, one
day, being loaned one of the only two phaetons in the foreign
community. I drove my sister on a shopping expedition.
On the third Sunday, the 19th, I was well enough to preach
for Mr. Murphy; and had some delightful singing in the even-
ing. On the 2 1 st, some busy packing in the store-house, with
the aid of Miss Jones and Mrs. Smith. Native superstition be-
lieved in the ability of human metamorphosis into some animal
form, especially that of the leopard. " Man-tiger " was a com-
mon phrase, used mistakenly by very many white men. (For,
there are no tigers in the African continent.) They meant man-
leopard. Libreville town was excited with reports of persons
killed by man-leopards. It was true that people had been thus
THE MAN LEOPARD
Facing page 286
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 287
attacked. (Of course, the assailant was some man disguised as
a leopard.) The French commandant did not, of course, believe
in " man-leopards." But, as the natives were in dread, he or-
dered all foreign merchants who had large properties along the
line of the public boulevard (in which the assailants ambushed)
to clear away the thickets on that line. It made quite an im-
provement in the looks of the town. I had been anxiously await-
ing the expected coming of the Pioneer. It came about noon
of Wednesday, the 22d. I went to the agent of the house of
H. & C, to inquire for passage and transportation. Met Mr.
Travis, who had just arrived from his furlough in England.
The vessel had a new captain, Stephens. The next day, the 23d,
was a busy day, nailing up boxes, etc., and taking them off in
a boat to the Pioneer, and making good-by calls on Njivo and
other friends.
JOURNEY BACK TO THE OGOWE.
The stay at Baraka had benefitted my sister; but, it was
deemed advisable for her to remain longer. And, I bade her
good-by, as I left early on January 24, to board the Pioneer.
How different the journey, from the conditions on the Hudson!
According to the season, the latter would slowly and with nau-
seating motion, require from three to five days for the seventy
miles to Nazareth Bay. The Pioneer rapidly, smoothly, and
with little nausea, carried me there in twelve hours!
The next day, Saturday, the 25th, the vessel reached Angala.
Old Esongi showed his honesty. On my journey down-river,
Petiye had discovered that a cloth of his was stolen. I had had
no time to investigate. I simply reported the loss to Esongi.
With true following of oriental guest-law, he had felt himself
responsible for the lives and property of myself and my people.
He had found the thief, and returned me the cloth. I planted
for him two of the little bread-fruit trees I was carrying to
Kangvve. (An importation into Africa from the West Indies.)
In the evening, in a small narrow canoe, I w r ent to Nombi and
engaged Onanga to make me another native boat. (The Nelly-
Howard was not safe for the sea.) I returned to the Pioneer
by midnight, very tired and sleepy. But, I was glad that, in my
absence, I had escaped the sight of a rum fight ashore. The ar-
rival of any river steamer at any trading-place, with its liquors
as the principal article of barter in purchase of provisions, pay-
ment of wages, and the most convenient form of gift, always
was followed by fight. The next day, Sunday, the 26th, the
288 MY OGOWE
Pioneer reached Xgumbe. By 7 a. m. of Tuesday, the 28th,
we were at Aguma, welcomed by Mr. Sinclair and his clerk Mr.
Surry, and two of my schoolboys. Of that arrival, I wrote to
my sister, that same day: "This is 6.30 p.m., tea is done;
lamp is lighted ; the young men have dispersed, and I will sit
down with you awhile. Reached Aguma this morning at 7
o'clock. Mr. Sinclair. Mr. Surry, and a crowd of other persons
were on the pier awaiting, and were soon aboard. Mr. Sinclair's
face fell when he saw you were not there; and, as if hesitating
to hear evil, asked where you were. Mr. Travis soon went
ashore with Mr. Surry; captain was busy with his fastenings;
Mr. Sinclair with his invoices, and I left soon, taking only my
baggage, loose things on deck, the crew's baggage, and the ward-
robe, all of which made sufficient of a load. Mwarogase and
Mbigino came alongside to salute. Mr. Lubcke had also fol-
lowed the Pioneer in his boat. The morning was warm. At
Kangwe, our coming was observed : and all the young men were
at the waterside to receive us (except Ompwenge keeping the
house. Xguva at the Nkami hut. and Xgare. who had absented
himself two days before). There was the usual vociferous ap-
plause and welcomings. The latter were unusually long. Each
of my six crew was severally welcomed by each of the seven
young men ashore. I believe my multiplication table used to
say. 6 X / " 4 2 during which interval. I sat dignifiedly in the
stern of the boat. The less important arrivals were being dis-
posed of; and, T was advanced to the bow, and Ntyege lifted
me into the muddy boat-shed. So many ' thanks ! ! ' Things all
landed: and boat put up. Then. I came up the Hill. Every-
thing in perfect order. Your (not my) arrival had been ex-
pected daily, for several days, on Mr. Sinclair's count of the
Pioneer's time.
" The elola tree, half-way up the Hill, had still some ripe
fruit on it. The kuda nuts are just beginning to ripen. Foliage
more dense than a month ago; the vistas somewhat closed.
Fowls all gone. ' Kitty' has not made her appearance: ' Julius '
has. The two kids are roly-polys. While the others carried
up the things. Oyembo and Xtyindiorema got dinner. I had
saved Mrs. Smith's Baraka bread on the Pioneer, for this
emergency. Tt was slightly moulded ; but, Oyembo restored it
perfectly with the hot bath and re-baking. Opened a tin of
beef, of ]>eas. and of cherries, and ate a hearty late breakfast.
Mamba came, for me to read your letter to him; and he set
bread in the evening with Ovembo. In the afternoon. 1 sent a
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 289
nine crew in the native boat, to Aguma, to get the boxes I had
left in the Pioneer's hold; and, as they were heavy, the crew
took all the time from 3 p. m. (the time of their return) until 6
p. m. to carry them up the Hill. I spent from 1 p. m. to 3 p. m.,
with Mamba, Oyembo, and Ompwenge in planting my little tree-
sets. Cool, pleasant air all the afternoon. Rain in the evening.
Prayer meeting: I told them about Baraka, from the Psalm
' The Lord of Hosts is with us, the God of Jacob is our refuge.'
After prayer meeting, the usual pa (news-telling) was held ani-
matedly for two hours. And, as I resume my pen, it is now 10
o'clock. All have dispersed ; some to sleep ; some to savune
(chat). I put your wardrobe in its place, as soon as it was
brought up the Hill.
" Eight p. m., Wednesday, the 29th. I resume my pen, at the
close of the second day. Abumba, Re-Nguwa, Oyembo, Ompwe-
nge, and Akendenge are sitting looking at my Centennial Al-
bum,' and Stanley's ' How I Found Livingstone.' Julius and
Kitty are at my feet ; she was in the house this morning, be-
fore I was out of my room, making anxious calls ; and met me
excitedly. I verily believe Julius had somehow told her about the
big dried fish I had given him for supper yesterday. I started
one at cleaning the boat ; another helped me open boxes. Agaia
and Nguva at the shop doors; others making shelf-frames in
the shop and store-room, for storing away boards and provision-
boxes : Ompwenge taking the place of Ntyindiorema, who said
he had a headache ; Mamba at the bread ; Oyembo drying your
rice and the dried apples, both of which were spoiling; the for-
mer was badly spoiled, the latter not yet injured; spread them
on mats in the sun. Azizya came with plantains to sell. Fanwe
came with " bush-lights," Mbimo and some of his people came
to know when (literally) ' the book that died would be resur-
rected.' I did not at first understand that he wanted to know
when school would be resumed. The river is very quiet ; very
few canoes going up and down ; and, I hear very little singing.
Most of the people of the three large adjacent villages are up-
river at Okota.
" Spent the afternoon in making out the dues of and paying
the ten whom I had left at Kangwe when we went down-river.
Showed them all the new goods ' from Holt's.' After they
were all paid, I presented Mamba with $2 ; Agaia and Ntyege
each $1.50; Nguva, Re-Nguwa, Re-Ganjwe, each $1 ; Ompwenge,
Aduli, Rilevi, and Ngare, each .20. And, to Azizya (whom I had
told to come for a gift) who had dropped in during the interesting
->90 MY OGOWE
exercises, with women and plantains, $1.50. In all $10.30 (not
cash; Ogowe trade). It is only twice a year that my hand gets
so open.
" As soon as they were all paid, I told the young men that
they might go as promptly as they chose, on their promised visits
to their homes; and to trv to be back in two weeks. Nsruva
and Xgare left immediately, wife-hunting. As Re-Nguwa and
Ompwenge said that they did not care to go, I allowed Angeka
and Piere (who had been bitterly disappointed that the Pioneer
had stopped nowhere near their places, on our way up-river)
to go to their homes. Was pleased also to dispense with Ntvi-
ndiorema. who wished to go with them. So, they three with
Mamba and Aduli left at 5 p. m. in my kongongo. They will
be on the lookout for the Mpongwe when it passes their places.
and will follow it. to return here. There are left with me on
this hillside, only Oyembo and Ompwenge. I shut up the kids
at noon ; and, by being extravagant, manage to use up all the
milk the mother gives. I wish I could send you some.
" Mamba's expenses were on a scale more economical than
that of any one whom I have ever left in charge at either Be-
lambla or Kangwe ; Ingumu ranks next to him ; Aveya is the
least economical (not to mention in the same list, Re-Nkombe's
nephew Oguma. who positively stole, and Ayenwe who wasted).
Thursday, the 30th, 8 p. M. I will not write long this evening;
for, my head aches. T set Akendenge at teaching Mpongwe
this afternoon; and T taught English. I am amazed at the
ignorance of those studying English; they seem to know less
about it than they did a month ago, though I had refrained from
calling on their teacher. Petiye, for even one hour's manual
work all the time I was at Gaboon, so that he might faithfully
work for you. for his own lessons, and one hour a day for my
Galwas. But, this was not what heated me : any teaching is
not good for me. Did a variety of jobs in the morning, and
put to rights the storehouse. But, work will not go rapidly:
for. I have only six hands (of' these, two are engaged in the two
nut-houses, and two are house-keeping) of whom none is. what
is most needed, a carpenter. Sent for Black from Aguma, this
afternoon. It was evening when the crew returned, and T
heard him howling at the landing. I went down hill to meet
him, thinking that he would be overjoyed to see me. He did
make a little demonstration, but immediately rushed up the Hill,
caring more for the house than for myself. And, even now,
he is not satisfied ; he goes about crving. restlesslv. I do not
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 291
blame his affections; they have been handed back and forth so
many times. I regret that I did not leave him here ; for, he did
not stay at Aguma ; he wandered in the villages a good deal.
"Friday, the 31st. The Pioneer goes some time to-morrow
morning; but, to make sure, I will have to send the boat and
things this evening. As Mr. Murphy expressed his liking for
palm-salad, I will have a tree cut this afternoon ; and perhaps
the ' cabbage ' heart will still be fresh when it reaches Baraka.
I enclose you two letters, one each from Mamba and Agaia,
which they had proposed to send by the Pioneer, not expecting
me on her.
" It is quite entertaining to meet with a Pioneer captain who
writes his notes on scented paper, and who thinks that Mrs.
Hemans ' has written some of the sweetest poems ever penned.'
But, his personal appearance would disappoint an expectation
based on such data. P. S. Ask Frank Myongo to try in his
Benita journeys, at every place, to get me a leopard skin. For
a perfect one, i. e., the entire skin of the head and legs, I will
give $5, he may have all of the five that he can save by getting
it for less."
On Tuesday. February 4, Re-Xkombe came with a meanly
small goat as a present, to try to make peace with me, for his
food-palaver of the previous November. T declined to accept
the gift; not because of its smallness, but because I wished to
see more demonstration of courtesy. For, that was the first
visit lie bad made me since that time. And, I chose to humiliate
him by declining his gift. Then, he offered the animal for sale.
For that, I was willing, as he then stood, not in the position of
a friend, but of an ordinary trades-man. I generously named
him a good price. Doubtless, it was more than he really ex-
pected : and, he tried to play on my good nature by haggling
for more! So. I refused to buy at any price.
Quite a variety of meats would from time to time be brought.
Besides domestic fowls, sheep and goat, and wild birds, there
would come a leg of wild hog or antelope. Crocodile meat really
looked attractive, but. the thought of it was offensive; elephant
was coarse; monkey was impossible. I read a good deal in the
second volume of Stanley's " Through the Dark Continent."
Sunday, the 9th. was a very quiet day. Only one person present
from the villages. About 5 p. m.. I was taken with a fever-
chill ; and, Azizya in Atangina hearing that I was sick, came to
see me.
In all my more than two years at Kangwe, I had been so busy
292 MY OGOWE
with works, that I had no time for excursions of amusement, and
never had investigated the source of Andende Creek. In the
afternoon of the nth, I took a pleasant trip up the creek in a
canoe. On my return, I found awaiting me, two young men,
from Wombalya, applicants for school, Mburu I refused, as I
thought him too old, but accepted Gasita.
I was anxiously awaiting the return of my sister on the daily-
expected Mpongwe, I was not in good health; yet I was
forcing myself to attend to the daily repairs and building, the
school, and the catechism inquiry class. Sometimes, I found
myself falling asleep over a lesson. Just at the close of morn-
ing service on Sunday, the 16th. and for several hours after-
ward, there was a noisy quarrel on the river between Atangina
and Orungu people, about some slaves, in which some shooting
was done. There was another reason for my anxiety for my
sister's return, besides my desire to be relieved of teaching, viz.,
that I might resume the revision of the Benga Gospels ; for, her
young men, the ministerial candidates, the teachers of the ver-
nacular school, I used as assistants in my translation.
In the afternoon of Friday, the 21st, while I was teaching, I
heard the sound of what I supposed was one gun. Though I
was hourly waiting for the Mpongwe's signal-gun, I did not sup-
pose that this was she ; for, she usually fired three guns. But,
two hours later, my sister came, in Mr. Lubcke's boat. I was
glad of her arrival, but ashamed that I had not understood, and
had failed to go for her myself. Her three young men, Petiye,
Mbora, and Kongolo, were with her. There was a busy time
of carrying boxes up the Hill, and a glad time hearing news,
and reading mail, some of the letters being from my sons in the
United States. On Saturday, the 22d, there were errands to
Otanga for a forgotten box ; and the village services. Some-
times, the act of prayer, so solemn to me, aroused amusement
among the natives, because of my closed eyes. Went on to the
German house, with some pumpkin pies, my sister's gift of
t lianks to Captain Breman. Said good-by to Mr. Lubcke's
clerk, Mr. Detmering, and greeted in his place, Mr. Alfred Boy,
whom 1 had known at Libreville. And came to Aguma. to
meet Mr. Sinclair in his grief over the news of the death of his
father.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
I was not well : rheumatism in a shoulder, with nausea and
sick headache. But, I followed my routine of the quarterly
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 293
visit of inspection, on February 28. Stopped for the night at
the usual end of the day's run, the village of Anyambe-jena.
There I met Mr. John Ermy who came to tell me about an ele-
phant corral, and to invite me to stop at his place on my return
down-river. The next afternoon, I was at Belambla. The
grounds were in good condition. But, few came to the services
of the following day. And, yet, on the next day, Monday,
A larch 3, I had many visitors. I was pleased that some children
were beginning again to come to school. Kimagwe, son of
Kasa, seemed quite desirous of an education. But, Aveya was
not as reliable as his predecessors. I had to charge against his
personal account money he had overspent. On the way down-
river, by arrangement, I stopped for the night, near a half-way
island, at Mr. John Ermy's. He invited me to go to see a small
herd of elephants enclosed in a corral ; a mode of capture of
which I had heard, but in the possibility of which I did not be-
lieve. Next day, March 4, we were up early, and walked three
miles through the forest, to a Fanwe camp, and saw their won-
derful stockade, a fence enclosing eight elephants. It was a re-
markable view. The Fanwe head-man, Sala, was pleased at my
visit, and asked me to come with my Winchester, and help shoot
down the animals when he should send me word of whatever
" auspicious " day his fetish-doctor should select, when the shots
from all guns would be fatal. Little children were interested in
pointing out the animals to me. And, I was pleased that the
men did not beg. The native " doctor " was surprised when I
told him that I also was a doctor. But, when some of the
elephants, attracted perhaps by the strangeness of a white face,
approached the side of the fence where I stood, some of the peo-
ple feared that my ombwiri (spirit) had caused the beasts to at-
tempt to escape. I was very much excited by the scene. And,
on the return to the beach, I out-walked all my companions.
Returned to Kangwe that day.
During my absence, all the Igenja schoolboys had come back
with Mamba in the kongongo I had loaned him some weeks be-
fore. My house was full. I accepted two new boys ; and my
sister two new girls. One of the older ones, Irina, was not well,
and was dissatisfied with her expected marriage. And, no won-
der! That engagement had been made for her by her family,
and tacitly consented to by herself, without any love on her part.
Civilization, and a little knowledge had opened her eyes; and
she shrank from bondage under the hands of the voting man
294 MY OGOWE
whom she did not like. By March 6, I had forty people on my
premises, whom I had daily to feed. Half of them were of an
age that I could utilize for work. I was gathering posts and
logs in the forest, for the erection of a church-building.
On Saturday, March 8, I received word from Mr. Ermy that
the Fanwe were ready for me at their corral. I immediately
started up-river, reaching the Island about dusk. Mr. Ermy
stated that the Fanwe had been there that afternoon with word
that their firing would commence the next morning.* T re-
turned to Kangwe on Monday evening, the ioth.
On Wednesday, March 12, the Pioneer arrived, bringing a
mail. Besides the letters of affection from my sons and other
relatives, there came an important letter from the Board, ad-
vising me to arrange my affairs for a furlough to the United
States! My first stay in Africa had been for more than ten
years. But, to recuperate in America had required more than
two years. I had now been in Africa almost five years. Very
strenuous years they had been! And, I myself, with all my love
for my work, had begun to think of the necessity and duty of
a change. But, who would take my place? To leave Kangwe.
without a successor on the spot, could not be thought of ! This
possibility of leaving the station in the near future made me all
the more zealous to have the place in perfect order for whatever
new hands I should have to turn it over to. There were many
jobs to be completed : carpentering, boat-caulking, painting,
clearing bushes, and cutting logs for the proposed church build-
ing. New pupils were added from time to time; so, that, by
March 13, there were forty-one mouths on the station roll. I
was not feeling strong; the rheumatism in my arms and shoul-
ders was a daily burden, and a constant bar to efficient work.
Human nature showed its variations among the natives very
much as in civilized lands. There were, among my native
friends, times of suspicion and jealousy and lack of courtesy,
cause for which I did not know, and for grounds of which I was
entirely innocent. On Saturday, the 17th, at Aguma. T visited
the Mpongwe christian trader and his wife Makeki. They had
attended services at Kangwe, and I had had them at my table.
Rut. that day, they showed me very little politeness (I never
knew why). And, Akendenge, whom I had temporarily made
teacher, until Petiye should arrive, was not willing to step down
to the position of pupil to Petiye, when the latter finally re-
* A detailed account of the adventure at the Corral appears in my " In an
Elephant Corral." Neale, 1912.
OX THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 295
turned. Perhaps the ground of his objection was tribal. Petiye
was a coast-Kombe ; Akendenge, though a river-Galwa, felt some
pride in the fact that the Gahva dialect was almost the same as
that of the proud coast- Mpongwe. But. among all these varia-
tions, my excellent friend Njivo was always glad to see me,
always affectionate and true. Whenever her husband's trade-
journeys brought her to Aguma. she always came to Kangwe,
at least on Sundays. My own ill health and that of my sister,
who frequently was confined to bed, probably made me more sen-
sitive to irregularities and misdeeds, which would not have an-
noyed or depressed or irritated me had I been in a normal state.
For example: On May 25, the company of the household was
very quiet. I did not know whether it was sullenness or submis-
sion to a rule I had issued, requiring them not only to pa\ for
their books, (which rule they had accepted) but also that each
should possess one. But only one came to buy the book I had
required of them! [When I look back at those years, I am
amazed that I, who thus was taking in 1879, as pioneer, the first
advanced step in native self-help, should have been charged by a
secretary, twenty-five years later, in 1905, with being " opposed
to native self-help"!] I had fully expected that the school
leaders. Angeka and Abumba would promptly obey. But. even
the teacher, Mbora. did not comply with my school directions. I
therefore dismissed Angeka, and warned Abumba. At noon,
the latter came and submitted himself. And. at once a spirit
of obedience seemed to pervade the school.
The days were very warm ; the thermometer 90 in the shade
during the afternoons. Almost every night there was vivid
lightning and signs of storm, for the heavy rain of the latter
rains (March-May). I was longing for a mail, with its letters
and newspapers from the United States and England. We had
had nothing, for two months. I sometimes got amusement
from the pranks of my tame monkey with dog Black. And, on
March 28, I recorded: " The whole household, boys and girls,
are again in a pleasant orderly state."
April 4, was a clear beautiful day; but, it was made unpleasant
by Irina. The child had been sulky to my sister, and her ill
conduct had grown to open disobedience. I punished her for the
offense to my sister more severely than I would have done for an
offense to myself. At noon, she ran away to the water-side;
but. her relative Mamba brought her back. I immediately di-
rected him to take the kongongo and a crew, and carry her home
to her mother at Igenja. That was a. sad ending of my expecta-
296 MY OGOWE
tions for a child, who, a year before, had been so earnest to come
to school. The worry of the day, in my poor health, wearied me.
Perhaps, if I had been in better health, I would not have dis-
missed her.
On Sunday the 6th. there were no persons from the villages,
at either the morning or evening service. In the afternoon, just
before Sabbath school, came a heavy storm. The tornado-
storms were always preceded by a sudden fall of temperature,
and. as I was sitting in the draught of the wind. I caught a
fever. Nothing in Africa, not even heat, or rain, or work, or
malaria, or trouble, brought on me a fever chill sooner than that
sudden, cold, north wind. The sickness incapacitated me for
several days. The next day, I could work at Benga revision
for only an hour. And, the following day, I attempted to con-
duct prayer meeting but could not make the address.
On Saturday, the 12th, at Aguma. I was agreeably surprised
to meet Njivo and her husband. At a village, where I stopped
on the way back. I heard that the Fail we from the Interior were
coming to take possession of some of the Galwa villages! Of
course, that tribe, like all interior tribes, was pushing seaward.
to come into direct contact with white trade. Naturally they
would emerge on the river as near as they could to the English
house at Aguma. The Galwas were alarmed.
Next day. Sunday. Njivo and her husband, and Mrs. Sarah
Lewis, and their companies were at the services, and I had the
three to lunch with me. My sister was sick in l)ed.
April 14. was a notable day! Just after school, in the after-
noon, came word that the Fanwe had emerged from the forest.
and were on my Andende grounds ! T promptly went there, and
found fifty men and women equipped with tools, ready to begin
a clearing for a village site. When I told them that the ground
was mine, they respectfully asked permission to use it. But. I
replied that I intended building there myself. Fortunately, in
proof of this, I was able to point a spot which I had only re-
cently cleared. For. fearing that the place might be seized, I
had wisely determined to preempt it by erecting a small hut there,
and I had some of the material already on the spot. Then, they
asked me for adjacent ground belonging to Galwa. I told them
that it was not mine to give; but, that as I was willing to be
friendly to them. [ would intercede with my friend Re-Nkombe
for them. Very conveniently, a heavy rain came up, and we all
scattered. That was the beginning of the coming of the Fanwe
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 297
to that part of the river. And that was the beginning - of
Andende !
The next day, April 15, leaving my sister who was still weak,
I went with the entire force of men and boys, with materials
and tools, and actually began the building of the Andende hut.
Only about an hour afterwards, there came 150 Fafiwe. For-
tunately, they saw that I was really building on those premises.
Otherwise, I believe that they would have seized the ground.
They then asked me to go with them to talk with the Galwas,
about giving them some other ground. I excused myself that
I was too busy with my own people. They remained watching
for another hour as we built; and then they went away peace-
fully.
While I was continuing the rapid building operations at
Andende next day, a canoe of Re-Nkombe's slaves, armed, passed,
on their way to visit with the Fafiwe strangers. A couple of
hours later, the canoe returned with word that the strangers had
been atacked and two of them wounded by other Fafiwe already
living on the river (a clan hostile to the new-comers).
On my Saturday visitation of the 19th, as I was about to land
at Kolo village, a woman on the beach said that the head-man
there had died, and that there were no persons in the village
with whom I could hold a meeting. I doubted her, and believed
that she was making only an excuse. But, I did not force my-
self on unwilling ears, and left, and went to Eyenano. There,
many persons came : but, the women crowded to the door out of
curiosity, and would neither come in, nor sit down, nor keep
quiet. So I left. With all my sympathy for the women, and
my frequent defense of them against the violence of their men,
T generally found them more untractable than the men. A noisy
company of men would have paid some attention to my re-
quest for quiet. However, a bright gleam came in the fact of
Agaia's asking for baptism.
On the 2 1 st, the new Fafiwe were already clearing ground
for a village between Andende Creek and the Akele village of
Ijuke-jame, not far from Adalinananga. That place was well-
named, " Observed-of-the-Tribes." For. in sight, were Galwas,
Bakele. Inenga, and Fafiwe. all attracted by white foreigners!
My sister, though still sick, was not confined to bed. I was
daily looking for the coming of the expected Pioneer, hoping
that its mail would give her some stimulus. The days had their
incidents. Little Evilo returned, and his townspeople with him
298 MY OGOWE
brought a great quantity of food. The man Re-Buka was so
disobedient, that I dismissed him. Akai and Ogula were doing
so well that they were promoted from spelling in the primer to
reading in the Epistle of James. (Our books were so few, that
in the reading classes, distinction was made between the easy
narratives in the Gospels and the more difficult constructions in
the Epistles.)
And, on Saturday, the 26th, at Eyenano, the women atoned
for their error of the previous week, by giving me very good at-
tention. On Sunday, the 27th, my Mpongwe christian friends,
Xjivo and Mrs. Sarah Lewis came to services, remained until
Sabbath school, and assisted me much in teaching. Abumba,
on whom I relied much, was sick.
In the evenings. I often had amusement with the younger girls
and boys, showing them my toys. Though I constantly told
them that the snake was only wood and not real, they were never
willing to touch it.
On Thursday, May 1, I had to arise long before daylight, to
let the goats out of their pen. I was awakened by their cries.
Their notes were distinctive; not of hunger, nor of quarrel, but
an agony of fear. Driver ants had invaded the pen, and, at-
tacking the goats, the latter would have died in a few hours.
Those ants leave no animal which they attack until they have
killed it and eaten its flesh to the bones. In rescuing the goats,
I had to step among thousands of ants at the door of the pen, ad-
just the key to the padlock, and throw the door. In that little
while, hundreds of the ants were on me. Leaving the goats to
rush out, and rid themselves of the ants by rolling on the ground
or rubbing against trees. I abandoned them to the probability of
death at the jaws of a possible prowling leopard. 1 fled to the
lamps of the house, to brush and pick off the tormentors from my
own body. In the afternoon, to my joy, the guns of the Pioneer
were heard in salute as she passed the German house at Otanga
in the main stream. Went at once to Aguma ; and returned with
the longed-for mail. Mrs. Kirkwood, one of the Gaboon church
members, had come to visit her daughter, Mrs. Owondo-Lewis.
And. my sister's boat Ei'angeline came; it was much smaller than
my Nelly-Howard, and more convenient for her. And, on Sat-
urday. May 3, the Mpongive came, bringing as passenger. Rev.
Mr. Murphy from Baraka, on a visit to Mr. Sinclair, dividing his
time between Aenima and Kanerwe.
OX THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 299
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
On Thursday, May 8, my usual run was made to Anyambe-
jena's for the night. His manner of civilization was much im-
proved in the past few years. I was well received and had a
good meeting in the evening. The next day, when I stopped to
eat at Myangaiie's, his women treated me well. But, I was
amazed at the ignorance of a certain young man, in his asking
of me, a missionary, whether 1 had rum in the boat for sale!
Perhaps he was thinking of the Roman Catholic priests, who
always carried liquor. At Belambla, I was pleased with the
good order of the grounds, and delighted to find that the Bakele
seemed to care for the school, and were beginning to send even
their little children to it. Aveya, too, asked for baptism and to
be married in Christian ceremony. This was good news. 1
settled his accounts ; and, as he wished to be relieved of the post,
I put Bayio in his place. On Sunday, the nth, no people came
from the villages to services ; for, they were almost all away, at
work on their plantations. But, I had a good Sabbath school
class of my own crew. And, Xguva made me glad by asking
for baptism. On the Monday, I returned to Kangwe. .
My sister had such a romantic attachment for her boat, Evan-
geline, that, as there was not good room for it in the boat-shed
alongside of my boats, at her request, I had it carried bodily by
the entire male portion of the household, up the steep hill, and
stored under the dwelling house. I began to clear the ground
for the site of the church at the eastern foot of the Hill, just
in the rear of my original hut there, above the ravine.
The next day, I almost completed the first draft of my har-
monized translation of the Four Gospels in Benga. I had
brought from Belambla, the lad Kimagwe, son of Kasa, who,
from the first days at Kasa's, had attached himself to me, and
who, among all the changes there, had remained more or less
faithful. Traveling constantly with Gahvas (Mpongwe) I had
not acquired Dikele fluently at Belambla; for, even the Bakele
were adopting Mpongwe (the language of trade) as a lingua
franca. Therefore, among Bakele. I had to depend on an inter-
preter in my preaching services. So, Kimagwe was at Kangwe
school with me. I took him as interpreter in my afternoon visi-
tation at Ijuke-jame's. For the first time there, the women then
received me well, and listened attentively.
On Sunday, the 18th, only one person came from the villages.
I had onlv my own forty of the household. But, to Sabbath
3 oo MY OGOWE
school came Mrs. Owondo-Lewis; Ofnvanga ("Bella") a for-
mer Baraka pupil, wife of a Mpongwe trader; Oswake ; and other
women. The Atangina slaves were making a great tumult on
my Andende grounds. The next morning, I refused to buy any-
thing from them. I completed the revision of the Four Gos-
pels. I had been endeavoring to obtain a gorilla carcass, in inter-
est of science, for my friend, Thos. G. Morton, M.D., of
Philadelphia. A certain man, Aziza-ngonja, from Lake Onanga,
said he would try to obtain me one.
On the 20th, I began carefully to copy for the press the cor-
rected first draft of my Benga revisions.
On Thursday, the 22d, in the afternoon, Messrs. Lubcke,
Schiff (his relief), and Sinclair, with Mrs. Kirk wood, came to
call on my sister, and invited us to " breakfast " at the German
house, at n a.m. of the following Saturday. The cool, dry
season fogs were commencing. The Kangwe property was
still a wild one ; for, on the 23d, on my way in the morning to
superintend the Andende work, I saw a large black monkey in
a tree near the boat-shed. And, in the afternoon, Ntyindiorema
with Black in the forest saw a nkambi antelope on the Hill, near
a rock known as the " Fetish Stone."
On the 24th, Sister and I went to Mr. Lubcke's at 11 a. m.,
returning at 3 p. m. And, then, I went on to Atangina for the
usual visitations. Forgot Black there, and had to go back for
him. He had been so accustomed to journeying with his for-
mer master. Count DeBrazza. in canoes, that he persisted in try-
ing to follow me on all my excursions. By the 27th, the
Andende hut was so far completed that I appointed five of the
young men to live there. They were its guards at night, and
could come daily for their work elsewhere. As it stood rather
isolated. I feared that they would not like the duty. But, they
did ; and a sixth asked to be allowed to join them. That little
hut stood near the site of the present Andende boat-shed, and
was the beginning of the transfer, ten years later, of the entire
Kangwe buildings and work from the Hill to Andende. On
Thursday. May 29, my sister and I made a return of invitation
to " breakfast," to Messrs. Lubcke, Schiff, Sinclair and Surry,
and Mrs. Kirkwood, and had a pleasant afternoon with them.
My sister was a graceful hostess; I knew no lady in the Mis-
sion during all my years in it. who could arrange the viands of
a table more tastefully and attractively than she. And her con-
versation was a happy combination of interest and refinement.
What an advance in my Ogowe life! hive years before, I had
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 301
entered the Ogowe, one of only five men in the river, and none
of us with any comforts of home. Then, that day, we sat, in
polite dress, in a decorated parlor (true, the house was only bam-
boo, and the room was small) with music, and civilized courtesy.
The path up the steep Kangwe Hill was zigzag (a straight
ascent was impossible). It was very trying on one's knees.
Now that Andende was to be considered, I explored, on the 30th,
a route on a southeast course, away from the river, and around
the heads of the two ravines that lay between the Hill and
Andende Creek. That, too, was an epoch-making day. That
path became the easiest, and finally, the only route between the
two dwellings. The next day, Saturday, the 31st, while I was
off in the forest, examining the logs which were to be the sills
of the floor of the proposed church building, Black started up two
civet-cats ; and my people killed one. which they afterward ate.
I never attempted to eat of that little animal : its musk odor was
too pronounced. At Adalinananga meeting that afternoon,
there came a large number of women. On the following Mon-
day, June 2. when out again in the forest, the dog started up a
genet, and caught it alive.
On Thursday, June 5, my sister and I went, on invitation, to
Aguma, where Mr. Sinclair was making a farewell entertain-
ment for Mr. Lubcke. I returned with a headache, from the
fumes of the tobacco which the gentlemen had been smoking.
I never had smoked ; and have suffered extremely when com-
pelled to remain in a crowd of smokers. This was especially
true of ships, where I was always sick with the sea: and, fellow
passengers, with cruel inconsiderateness, carried their smoke
everywhere, even, against the ship's rules, into the saloon. After
thirty years of suffering, I finally became used to the odor, though
I never have liked it or used it.
My logs for the church were unnecessarily large and long. I
would have been wise to have cut them into sections, and then
have joined them. But, I was pleased with the idea of solidity.
Time had come for the dragging of them from the forest to the
building site. I hired two men from Adalinananga, three from
Eyenano, five from Atangina ; Mr. Lubcke kindly sent twenty-
six with his Goree trader Ayune; Mr. Sinclair sent a large num-
ber. These, with fifteen of the largest of my own people, made
a company of some eighty, for the job. But, the strangers
seemed to consider the day a picnic, and pulled with little energy.
And, as a result of the day's work, only one log was in position!
There was a pleasant incident, that, after I had selected my
302 MY OGOWE
fifteen, two others, Mbigino and Pendaningani, asked to be al-
lowed to work " for the sake of the church.'' I assigned them
to carry water to the men. The next day, we were at the logs
again; but, no employees of the two trading-houses came; they
were busy at the German house, having an entertainment at the
good-by for Mr. Lubcke.
The evening of Monday, June 9, was a notable day : on it was
held the first christian marriage ceremony celebrated in the
Ogowe. when Aveya and his wife Arangi-ir-'nomi-ye, who had
been living together (like all the natives) under native ceremony
fat that time accepted by our presbytery as sufficient) chose to
have the added church rite. (The Government had not yet re-
quired the civil rite.)
On afternoon of the TOth. while at work on the logs, heard
that the Pioneer had arrived. Hasted in my boat to Aguma for
the mail. There. I found that Mr. Carlill. general agent of the
Tl. & C. firm, from his office at Elobi Tsland. in Corisco Bay.
had arrived on a visit of inspection. With him had returned
Mr. Sinclair's former clerk. Mr. Woodward.
Xext day. Messrs. Carlill and Sinclair made a courteous call
on my sister. On Monday, the 16th. 1 held an examination of
the school. All, except three or four, failed, according to my
test, in English.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
Messrs. Sinclair and SchifT had burned an Akele village op-
posite to the mouth of the Xgunvc. in punishment for some peo-
ple of that place having attacked a trade-boat of the latter. In
my going to Belambla on June 17. my crew were in great fear
of some revenge by those people, on the boat of any white man.
1 did not know how serious the situation might be; but, it was
necessary for me to make that journey before going on the usual
semi-annual trip to Gaboon. Of course, in passing Aguma.
there was a good deal of excitement on the subject. Mr. Sin-
clair loaned me his revolver. We ascended the river with cau-
tion. And. when in sight of the burned village, crossed to the
other side (the left bank) of the river. And. rounding all the
islands, passed in safety. Never had my crew pulled so rapidly
and steadily. They wasted no time in merriment. For the first
time in three years, we passed up the Tazie side. My crews
had always before been afraid of the clans on that part of the
river. But, that day. as a choice of evils, they preferred Tazie.
Had a good meeting at Anyambe-jena's that night. There was
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 303
there a Mpongwe trader, Ndeg'-oma (Friend-of-a-Person) ; but,
I slept in the boat ; it was clean ; the huts always had vermin ;
and, there was no danger of rain.
The next day, I found all right at Belambla, except that Bayio
was not as competent to control his little school as was Aveya.
And, the following day, I was again safely at the Hill.
On the 2 1 st, Mr. Sinclair came with his own and Mr. Schiff's
people, and assisted in dragging a large log for the church.
Then, he enthusiastically went for another, and finished it by
11:30 a.m. Then, I and my people stopped to rest; but, he
went for a third. After dinner, I went to the Nkami or western
side of the Hill, to select a new site for the little Igolino hut I
had originally built there. Black, with me, started up a young
antelope. By 3 130 p. m. Mr. Sinclair left, after a very helpful
day. Shortly afterwards. I followed him to Aguma, to get goods
for my down-river journey.
On Sunday, the 22cl, there was only a small company present
at services; for. of my household, all the girls and several of
the boys had already gone to their homes, for the " vacation "
of my absence. Next day, Mr. Sinclair came and took away a
stove he had bought of my sister. The carcass of an ilieli
(gazelle) was brought for sale. After I had skinned it, Black
stood faithfully guarding it from chickens and cats; himself did
not attempt to steal any of it.
JOURNEY TO GABOON.
On the afternoon of June 24. in the Nelly-Howard, with my
sister, I started on the 130 miles to the river's mouth. Unwilling
to leave Black to the uncertain care of my people during a long
absence, I took him also as passenger. At sundown, we reached
the village Ompomo-nyanda (Onion-point). Its head-man came
to greet us; ceremoniously gave us gifts. And, after the four
village dogs had become reconciled to Black, we had a good
meeting in the evening.
Next day, two of the schoolgirls. Onivi and Mwanyeno, and
Aveya's wife came to greet my sister; and Aveya and Nguva
joined the boat's crew. I wished to see Njivo. So, we entered
Lake Onanga by its small entrance, and disembarking my sister
with some of the crew at a village, I hastened on farther into the
lake, to Dowe's trading-house. He was not at home; but Njivo
was there, and she entertained me hospitably. I taught the little
boys of the village, and held a meeting with the people. And,
then, hasting back, took up my sister again, and emerged from
3 04 MY OGOWE
the lake by its only large exit at Ngomu. Stopping at Oranga
to let off three of the boys to their homes; and, at Nandipo, for a
few minutes with friend Azaze ; and, finally, by early moonlight,
to the Igenja village of Awora. There were good huts in which
to sleep, and good attentions, and a good public meeting. The
next day, held another meeting, at which a candidate for the in-
quiry class was examined. Then, on to another Igenja village,
that of Mamba's people. Angeka, whom I had dismissed on
March 26, wished to return to school ; but, I did not permit him.
On to the Ashuka village of Re-Teno. A " nkanja " dance was
in progress by the women, in honor of the " king " of their fe-
male society.
On to Isagi's at Ngumbe for the night. Black made himself
troublesome with the sheep and goats. Mosquitoes were bad ;
and, sleeping in the boat, I caught a cold that troubled me the
remainder of the journey. Pulling rapidly, the next day, the
27th, and stopping on Olende Island to eat, we were early for
the night at Rango. Re-Buka and his wife, Mhuru, were hos-
pitable.
The next day, our meal was eaten at Nombi. Friend Onanga
was not at home ; but. I advanced some goods on the boat which
he was supposed to be making for me. On to Angela, to re-
main over Sunday. A French gun-boat was lying* there. I
had to stay in bed, and could hold no services. The town was
noisy. The trader, Ibanja, was playing cards all day. (It was
remarkable how generally the ignorant idle natives had adopted
card-playing from the example of white men.) The French of-
ficers were ashore, target-shooting. On Monday. June 30, the
gun-boat had preceded us. Tn my weakness, and confusion of
starting. I actually forgot Black, and had to return for him.
Ate our morning meal at the " One Palm-tree." Passed the gun-
boat, which was taking soundings. Emerging at the mouth, we
saw the Hudson far out at sea. Went, for the night, for my
sister's sake, to Ngwanyani's Abun'-awiri ; but, sent the boat,
under charge of Petiye, to go out and meet the cutter, and put
our goods on board. He, being of a coast-tribe, and accustomed
to boats and the sea, T trusted him. But, when he returned late
at night, the boat was damaged by his having crossed the cutter's
bows, when he went alongside, instead of approaching around
her stern. The next day, I left the 1x>at in Ngwanyani's care;
and he sent us in a large canoe to board the Hudson, which had
come close in shore. For a rarity, I was not sea-sick, and could
not only eat, but could use my eyes to read the large mail which
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 305
the vessel had brought us. With a fine run all day, we entered
Gaboon estuary at night, and anchored by the French guard-
ships at midnight. French law permitted no vessel of any size
to enter or leave the river after sundown.
AT LIBREVILLE.
July 2. Our meeting had been officially appointed for Benita.
For some reason, Mr. Murphy refused to go there. I could not
go without him ; for, his absence would prevent a quorum. So,
I had to yield and remain at Baraka, for meetings to be held
there. But, my sister, having desired to see her loved Benita,
went thither on the Hudson, and Miss Lydia Walker accom-
panied her.
On Friday, the 4th, there arrived messengers bearing letters
from the ocean steamer Angola, with the astonishingly gratifying
news that new missionaries, H. M. Bacheler, M.D., and wife
were at Elobi Island awaiting transportation to Libreville.
The Pioneer, lying at anchor at Libreville, was to go at once to
Elobi, to bring its own goods, and would give the Bachelers pas-
sage. As they were coming as my relief at Kangwe, I went at
9 p. m. to the beach, and Mr. Schultze sent me off in his boat
to the Pioneer, where I slept for the night. Next day, a white
man, Mr. Fred. Theron, came also as a passenger. But, he was
a very unpleasant one. He was very pronounced in his infidelity,
and in his antimissionary and proslavery talk ; and approved of
polygamy! A little cutter, the Vyabama, of Holt's Company,
passed us, having on board a living young elephant.
Early in the afternoon, we reached the anchored hulk, Princess
Royal. This was the home of H. & C.'s general agent, Mr.
H. T. Carlill, his assistant, Mr. Woodward, and clerks Grey-
stock and Neile. There was a glad welcome of the new mis-
sionaries, Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler.
On Sunday, I was still too weak, with my ague chills, for
any service ; but, I tried to study a Sabbath school lesson with the
Bachelers. On Monday, the 7th, the Pioneer, with much salut-
ing of flags, and circling around the Princess Royal, in honor
of the general agent, brought us back to Libreville. The en-
gineer was very attentive, in an offensive state of intoxication.
But, the view of the little islands in Corisco Bay was beautiful.
In the Gaboon estuary, we fortunately passed the guard-ship
only fifteen minutes in advance of the closing signal-gun. Mr.
Murphy came off in a boat kindly loaned by Mr. Schultze. Miss
Jones was awaiting on the beach with horse Jimmy and the little
306 MY OGOWE
carriage. And, Mrs. Smith was at the Baraka door with a
welcome for the new arrivals. On the 9th, Mr. Murphy and I
escorted Dr. Bacheler, for the official call on the French com-
mandant, required of all new comers. The French surgeon rec-
ognized Dr. Bacheler's profession, by politely showing him
through the surgical ward of the hospital. In the evening, at
Baraka, we had pleasant music, vocal and instrumental ; Mrs.
Bacheler on the melodeon, Dr. Bacheler accompanying on his
flute. I remember particularly Mrs. Bacheler's Civil-war bal-
lad, " Baby Mine."
On the nth, mission meeting was held, and Dr. Bacheler was
formally enrolled as a member. I preached for Mr. Murphy
twice, on Sunday the 13th, and the 20th. On Sunday after-
noon, the 13th, the French commandant, with the captain and
lieutenant of a French corvette made his courtesy call on Dr.
Bacheler and myself. The Hudson came in from Benita with
my sister, late on the night of the 14th. But, by special favor,
because of her sickness, my sister was allowed to come ashore
that night, as I had gone off in a boat for her. My two young
men, Aveya and Nguva, who had accompanied my sister to
Benita, had been baptized there. Licentiate Ttongolo also had
arrived for the delayed deferred presbytery.
On Wednesday. July t6, was a notable prayer meeting.
Nguva made his first public prayer, as one of the first Ogowe
converts. On Friday, the TcSth. Mr. Schultze. as German consul,
made his official visit to a French frigate which had arrived on
the 1 6th. He was accompanied by his Protestant friend. Rev.
Mr. Murphy ; the latter received no attention from the admiral.
But. in the afternoon, when the French Roman Catholic Bishop
visited the vessel, he was received with great honor. Those were
the days while France was still under the domination of the
Roman hierarchy.
The days passed pleasantly in the refined society of my Baraka
associates. But, I was anxious to return to my Ogowe work.
Finally, Rev. -Mr. Ibiya and Licentiate Myongo arrived for pres-
bytery. At Kangwe. T had little time for reading. During the
delays at Baraka, I read George Eliot's " Daniel Deronda." I
did not like it.
On the 19th, I had a long conversation with Licentiates Ito-
ngolo and Myongo, Bible-reader Aka, and two young Bapuku
men, about the work at Batanga. Mission had declined to locate
any white agent there, desiring that its work should be carried
on entirely by natives. (We had no idea at that time, that
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 307
twenty years later, it would be the very center of our Mission.)
The afternoon service of the 20th, was presided over by Rev.
Mr. Ibiya, assisted by Licentiates Truman and Myongo. But.
we were insulted by the disorderly conduct of some Mpongwe
Roman Catholic young men.
My ague chills continued. At 4 p. m. of the 21st, I was
shivering under blankets. But, at 7 p. M. I had to rise, to go
to presbytery, for my duty as stated clerk. On request of four
members of Gaboon church, and two of Benita, I was officially
directed to organize them into the First Ogowe churchy at
Kangwe. Elder Komanandi of Gaboon, and Bible-reader Aka
were accepted as candidates for the ministry. [The former
subsequently died a miserable felon in jail at Duala, Kamerun.]
Kongolo, after a long examination, was licensed, and appointed
as stated supply of the first Ogowe church. I spent some of my
days teaching Airs. Bacheler Mpongwe, in which Mrs. Smith and
Miss Jones sometimes joined. The excellent Mpongwe lady, a
monitress in the school, " Jane Harrington," or Anyentyuwa,
sister of Njivo, assisted me. (Anyentyuwa afterward played an
important part in my Ogowe life.) On the 27th, my sister's
sickness increased ; she was delirious, and I sat up with her all
night.
As she seemed better in the morning of the 28th, I left her in
the afternoon, and, in company of Mr. Murphy and Mr. Carlill,
paid my courtesy call on the newly arrived commandant. In the
evening, my sister's delirium returned. The only voice that
seemed able to quiet her was that of her Benita pupil, Petiye.
.Mrs. Smith kindly relieved me in my night-watch. As the Hud-
son had returned that day, from her taking (on the 24th) our
native visitors to their homes at the north, I was anxious to get
away. I had had a talk with Dr. Bacheler about his taking my
place in the Ogowe. As my sister was better on the 30th, I be-
gan to arrange for our departure.
JOURNEY BACK TO OGOWE.
The mission arrangements that required a semiannual meet-
ing was a trying one for me of the Ogowe. But, it was very
easy for whoever was occupant of Baraka (where generally the
gathering was voted to be held). The arrangement involved for
me, a week's exposed boat-journey on the river, and a painful
sea-voyage of from three to five days on the slow Hudson. Only
occasionally did one of the small river trading-steamers' sailing-
schedule coincide with my due time for the journey. Also, the
3 o8 MY OGOWE
delay at the Coast, though it gave change of scene, was never
restful, as I was busy with accounts, purchases, reports and
letters.
The month's stay at Baraka came to an end on August i. My
sister, though still weak (and myself not strong) was as anxious
as I to get back to our house, though we knew that the dry sea-
son voyage would be a trying one. The dog Black had been a
nuisance to my Baraka host and hostess. He ran away; was
stolen by some natives ; on his escape and return, I chained him ;
but, he was missing at almost the last moment before our em-
barcation. Dr. Bacheler joined us for the sea trip. He enjoyed
the sea. I was pleased to have his company, but I had to re-
quest him to refrain from smoking, if he came on board. He
was a constant and excessive tobacco, smoker. Because of that,
he had been refused an appointment of the Free-Will Baptist
Society (of which he had been a member) to be associate with
his father, in their Orissa. East India Mission. In our Mission,
we had no rule against the use of tobacco. All natives smoked
it ; and most of us used tobacco-leaf as the smallest and most
convenient " coin " in barter. But, none of us smoked. To-
bacco smoke was especially offensive to me on journeys. It ag-
gravated my invariable seasickness. So it was always under-
stood that, when I was a passenger on the Hudson, Captain
Menkel would forbid the crew to smoke on the journey. Dr.
Bacheler assented to my request, and with apparent willingness
promised to refrain. On August 2, against wind, we ran rapidly
all day on a long tack out to sea, in an attempt to reach our south-
ern goal. But, when we tacked back at night, wind and current
had carried us north, and we had gained no farther south than
Kangwe Point !
On Sunday, the 3d, we ran in vain, part of the day : broke our
bow-sprit; and anchored. On the 4th, there was just the same
long tacking. We ran rapidly. But I observed that the native
steersman, who enjoyed the motion, and who had no interest in a
short trip, in his vociferous songs and conversation with other
members of the crew (a thing utterly forbidden on all vessels)
lost progress by failing to keep the vessel up to the wind. Mr.
Menkel too never suffered on the sea, and allowed the native
assistant to take his own happy way, while himself was reading
or dozing. It became agonizing; for, T could see all the disorder
as T lav on the deck. I complained. Mr. Menkel took the rud-
der himself, and we reached Round Hill. On Tuesday, the 5th,
we ran well, and reached Sangatanga. My sister, down in the
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 309
little cabin, was becoming hysterical with the trials of the jour-
ney. Dr. Bacheler's ability to keep his promise failed, after the
fifth day's abstinence, and he smoked. I had to protest. Mr.
Menkel rebuked him. The doctor felt humiliated. The incident
strained our future relations.
On Wednesday, the 6th, a fine run was made parallel with the
coast, both wind and tide being favorable, and we anchored near
Abun-'awiri in the middle of the afternoon. I sent the small
canoe that was always in tow of the Hudson, ashore to Ngwa-
nyani, asking him to send his big canoe for us. He did so.
And, just then, the Pioneer appeared from the river. I went
to it in the canoe, and received a letter from my Kangwe em-
ployees saying that all was well and no trouble. The careless
crew of the Hudson allowed their little canoe to go adrift. As
soon as I had taken my sister ashore for the night, in the big
canoe, I sent it back to pick up and take to the Hudson their
little one. On the 7th, sent that large canoe for Messrs. Bacheler
and Menkel to come ashore, in order that the latter might help
me about the repairs of the Nelly-Hoivard, damaged by Petiye
in the previous June. Six of its timbers were broken. Made
temporary repairs. Had a hearty meal ashore with the two
gentlemen. And, in the afternoon, in the canoe, took them to
the Hudson. Returning, I put the boat in the water. It leaked
very much.
By the next morning, Friday, the 8th, the leaks had swelled
shut somewhat ; but, I had to bail constantly, all the way up-river.
We went alongside the Hudson, and loaded into the boat our
goods. It was very crowded with them. Unfortunately, the tide
was against us ; but, we started ; and ate our midday meal at the
" One Palm-Tree." And, did not reach Angala until 8 p. m.
The French customs officer was at the landing. Mr. Schultze's
colored man vacated his comfortable house for us. After buy-
ing food, it was too late for any public services ; we were all too
tired ; and my sister was trying to dry the contents of her boxes
which had gotten wet in the leaky boat. The next day, Saturday,
the 9th, after buying a quantity of food, and engaging a man,
Banja, to come to Kangwe to do carpenter work, we started late,
and stopped faint with hunger, for the noon meal at 5Jbmbi,
where I arranged about the boat Onanga was to make for me.
And, then, by sail with dry season wind, reached !N T ango ; were
received kindly by Re-Buka and his wife Mburu. Discharged
all the boxes, to dry their contents over Sunday. On which
dav, mv sister was so exhausted, that she remained in bed all
310 MY OGOWE
day, and could not admit any of the people who wished to see
her.
On Monday, the nth, stopping for the midday meal near
Olende Island, we hasted on, partly by sail, but obstructed by
the tortuous channels of the dry season, and stopping for the
night, after dark, in the German sub-" factory " at old King
Xjagu's former town. The native trader gave up his good
new house for our use.
The next day, Tuesday, the 12th, made a good day's run with
only oars, to a camp in the forest for the night near Avanga.
The following day, stopping at Ashuka, with Ogula's people ;
and, for a few minutes at Mamba's Igenja's village, to Awora's
for the night. I was suffering with a diarrhea, and could con-
duct no services. But, I took account of Awora's good report of
his Scripture-reading work.
The next day, stopping at friend Azaze's Nandipo; and, on to
Oranga (where I left letters to be taken into Lake Onanga to
Njivo) and on rapidly past old Aromba, and stopped for the
night in .the forest at a point opposite the small " second en-
trance " to the lake. Both my sister and I were sick, and neither
of us ate anything. The next day, Friday, the 15th, we were
enlivened with the feeling that we were nearing our house; and,
the crew pulled enthusiastically. We met a kongongo coming
from Messrs. Sinclair and Schiff; and its crew gave us news of
Kangwe. At Ompomo-nyanda, took in a new pupil, Mbogo.
And. at Zintango's Atangino village, an Ajumba friend Fangi-
nanga told some evil news of Aveya's wife, and of a stolen canoe.
At Ntyege's Wombalya village, heard of the plundering of an
Orungu canoe. At Ginigo, was not pleased with the conduct of
Aveya's people. At the large "first entrance" to the lake, saw
Re-Vege and his people. On, past Abando and some Akele vil-
lages, on the main stream : and. at dark, stopped in the forest,
and made a fine camp for ourselves. My sister and I were both
tolerably well again, and enjoyed eating ashore, and chatting
with the crew; but, we slept in the boat. On Saturday, the 16th,
all started in good spirit, for the journey's end was so near.
About 10 a. m., stopped at the German Otanga house, to de-
liver some mail to Mr. Schiff. and also to Mr. Sinclair, who hap-
pened to be there. They were discussing a " palaver " of their
(k)ree employees with some Ivili tribe. The crew, desiring to
reach our Hill, decided that their eating should be done in the
boat, halt of them rowing while the other half ate. And, we
were at Kangwe before noon. The joy of the young men and
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 311
boys I had left in charge was enthusiastic. The premises were
well cleared and in good order. There was a busy afternoon of
putting away our boxes, etc., before Sunday; and in receiving
callers from Atangina.
At night of Sunday, August 17th, came Bayio from Be-
lambla, with the startling news of an attack on the premises, the
burning of the boys' hut, and the murder of one of them, Nde-
mbelembe. The assault had been by an Akele, on a tribal quarrel,
and was not directed against me or Bayio. Nevertheless, it was
an outrage on our mission premises. The next day, after settling
payments with the twelve, who had guarded Kangwe during my
absence, and allowing Abumba and four other Igenjas to go
home on a " vacation," and squaring my own accounts, I sent
Bayio and his two Bakele back to Belambla, with promise to fol-
low them. Then, I was tired.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
On the 19th, I felt depressed, and dreaded going. The jour-
neys to Belambla had almost always been connected with trouble.
Stopping at Aguma, I could get no goods for purchase on the
way, as Air. Sinclair was absent at Mr. SchifFs still discussing
that Goree " palaver." I went on, with the small supply I hap-
pened to have. Passing Tazie, the people there wished to sell
plantains ; I promised to stop on my return. Stopped for the
night at Anyambe-jena's. His village had improved in quiet
and order. The next day, with some caution, passed the village
of Akilibonga, where lived the murderer of Ndembelembe.
Stopping to eat at Alyangane's, he talked a great deal about the
wrong that had been done me at Belambla. Arriving there in
the afternoon, I looked with distress at the ashes of the boys'
burned hut, as I stood on the spot where Ndembelembe fell. I
began to think that further effort for the Bakele was useless ; and
determined to make no display of indignation, and to quietly
abandon the place. I was weary of protesting for my rights.
Some of the head-men, Disingwe, Walinja, and Mokumi soon
came to see me. I listened to their talk, but reserved my
reply for the next day. On the morrow, the 21st, I settled ac-
counts with Bayio and the boys. The three men returned, and
also Njamikiloma and Apekwe. They said that the " palaver "
was theirs, Akele with Akele, and not mine; and they de-
nounced the assault on my premises. It was a satisfactory talk.
Kasa's old mother put in a suggestion that I should allow a vil-
lage to be built on two sides of my house as a protection against
312 MY OGOWE
future danger. I had little hope but what some one of those
very men would some day find it convenient to appropriate the
ground without my permission, and that therefore it might be
wise to remove all difficulty by an apparently graceful gift.
Moreover, I felt sure that, when my successor should take my
place at Kangwe, it would be a kindness to him to eliminate the
Belambla problem from the problems which would inevitably
come to him from the growing Kangwe work. So, I assented
to the old woman's irenic plea; and chose the two most appar-
ently friendly of those men. Disingwe and Njamikiloma, and
told them to build on the upper and lower sides of the lot on
which the house stood. The Bakele had already killed a person
at Kabamba's village to atone for Ndembelembe's death. (With
this, of course, I had nothing to do. Under native idea of jus-
tice, in their inability to catch the actual murderer, oriental cus-
tom justified them in killing any one of his " family.") And,
Jongane had gone down to Akilibonga's with the intention of
burning that village, for my burned hut. The " palaver " was
gratifying. I was pleased with (i) the men's interest in my
property; (2) their desire that my house and employees should
not be removed; (3) their allowing two lads, Kange and Kima-
gwe. to go to Kangwe with me; (4) by a Nkami trader, Agaia,
putting two lads, relatives of his, into the Belambla school; (5)
not a single intimation had been made by the dead toy's relatives
that I should pay anything for the loss of his life (a claim,
for which I felt there was native basis, the lad having been tech-
nically under my care on those premises).
As I was leaving next day, Jongane came to see the site I had
designated for Disingwe. And. T met Agaia coming with his
two little boys to school.
At Myangane's, there were no plantains for sale, the women
fearing to go to their plantations, because of the tribal war,
which Ndembelembe's deatli had precipitated. (The '* wars "
of almost all the tribes were not open attacks, where villagers
could defend themselves, but ambushes against unarmed women
on their plantations.) So. also, the women of Angambe-jena's
were in fear. Passed Akilibonga's with my Winchester ready.
Was welcomed at Tazia. Ate heartily, and bought a large
quantity of plantains. Saw a very large alligator. At Aguma,
was told that the Gorees. unable to settle their quarrel with the
Tvili people, had gone to Gaboon, to carry their complaint to the
French commandant (they being French citizens of Senegal).
After the usual job of landing and discharging at the Hill, and
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 313
the belated evening prayers and inquiry class, I went to bed very
tired.
On Sunday, the 24th, many people were present at morning
services, from villages. A lad, from Adalinananga asked to
enter the inquiry class.
On Monday, the 25th, I finally marked the outlines of the site
of the church, for which I had been collecting the beams for the
frame. In the evening, I was surprised by the appearance of
Bayio and his aid Sambunaga, with all their and my Belambla
goods, and reporting that they were afraid to stay there, as the
Bakele had deserted them. Even with my slight confidence in
the Bakele, that was difficult to believe; and, I was displeased
with the two young men for deserting their post. The next day,
I directed them to return to Belambla.
It was trying, in my Ogowe life, that there was no succession
of days of quiet and rest. There was constant change; if for
the better, I knew that, in a few days there would be evil. In-
deed, a good name for my Africa would be " The Land of
Change." Heard that a woman at Adalinananga had been ac-
cidentally shot by the Atangina man Ambangila. Word came
by canoe from down-river at Angala that the Pioneer was lying
there waiting for the river to begin to rise. I had fed myself
with a hope that Mr. Menkel would fulfill a promise he made me,
and would arrive to do my church-building; and I was disap-
pointed. His duties, as captain of the Hudson were not onerous
or constant. I was his most frequent passenger ; and, some com-
petent native could have been obtained to run the vessel during his
absence. He had been by trade a carpenter; in house building,
T was only an amateur. I could better spend my time in teach-
ing and translating or itinerating.
Three Fariwe called to see me, to let me know that they were
coming again, to resume the place they had deserted six months
previously. They knew that, though I had prevented them from
locating at Andende, I favored their building on some other un-
occupied spot on the river. The sills for the church were all
ready; and, with Petiye, I began to square the sleepers for the
floor.
On the 29th, my Saturday visit was to the old Fanwe village.
A long sand-bar extended out into the river, and many of the
Fanwe came across it to see me in the boat.
Even at Aguma, all was not quiet; for, Mr. Sinclair gave me
an account of a quarrel between two of his Mpongwe traders
3 i4 MY OGOW'H
Owondo and Angila-Kukulani. Then, almost a fight sprang up
between Adalinananga and some passing Fanwe. On return, I
stopped at Re-Nkombe's, to speak in the interest of the recently
arrived Fanwe, that they should be allowed to remain and build.
There was the pleasant news that Celia Dorsey, a former Baraka
pupil, and sister to Mrs. Owondo-Lewis, daughter of Mrs. Kirk-
wood, was to be married to Mr. John Ermy, with whom she
had been living.
On Sunday, August 31, I was too sick with fever and head-
ache to conduct any of the services of the day. Celia and two
other women and Owondo-Lewis came for meeting and re-
mained all day.
On Tuesday, September 2, went with my sister, on invitation
of Mr. Schiff, to " breakfast " at 1 1 a. m. His cook suddenly
ran away; so, his table was unexpectedly scanty. On Septem-
ber 5, there were more letters from Libreville, per Mr. Surrv, who
had come by canoe from the Pioneer at Angala. The Gal was
finally allowed the Fanwe to settle, by the latter paying a lot of
goods.
My Saturday visit of September 6, was to the Akele village;
they listened well ; and, to the new Fanwe, two of whom had
been shot by their Bakele enemies of the Ngunye.
On Sunday, news came that the Adalinananga woman who had
been shot some ten days previously, had died. And, there was
great excitement in Atangina about Ambangila who was threat-
ened with capture. Of course, he was not a murderer, for his
shot had been accidental. But, I had not much pity for him ;
he was a bold, bad, violent, troublesome man.
I reorganized the school classes ; they were under my care. My
sister's class was under her sole control, as to time, place, and
Fnglish lesson; her pupils being the few candidates for the
ministry; and two of them were teachers in my vernacular school.
On September 10, I made this entry in my diary: "To-day
completes nine years since Mary's death. The next anniversary
of this will find me in America, if I am living."
On Thursday, the nth, I sent cook Oyembo and several oth-
ers to Aguma, to assist Mr. Sinclair in his kind making of a
marriage feast for his trader John Ermy. I appreciated his
christian interest. Most white traders had their negro common-
law wife. I was pleased that he had encouraged his employee
to give Celia an honorable marriage. Late in the afternoon,
accompanied by my sister, I went to Aguma. And, at sundown,
I made an interesting ceremony in the marriage of Mr. Ermy
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 315
and Miss Dorsey. (He was an American negro, from New
England, who had been an officer's body-servant in the Civil
War. She was called a " Mpongwe." But, she was not. Her
father, Mr. Dorsey, was an American negro, who had been a
teacher in the Baraka school under the A. B. C. F. M., and her
mother was of the Kru tribe, a pupil in the Cape Palmas Mis-
sion School. After Mr. Dorsey 's death, the widow was hon-
orably married to a white man, a Scotch trader, Mr. Kirk-
wood.) The feast followed the ceremony. I had not, for a
long time, so enjoyed a social event as I did Mr. Sinclair's feast.
Mr. Neumann, Mr. Schiff's assistant, was present. I felt that
the marriage might be a good example in morality to some
white men. It was 10 p. m. when we left, to return to our
Hill. Even at that late hour, there were groups of people on
the river bank, watching for any demonstration in the matter of
Ambangila.
The work for the church building went on slowly but surely.
I had been preparing the material. Finally, on the 12th, I
staked out the places for the foundation posts. But, the work
lagged when I was not by to superintend. I had to be away in
the afternoon, teaching; for. Mbora said that he was not well.
I was pleased to hear that the " palaver " about Ambangila and
the dead woman was to be settled, not by blood, but by a fine.
On Monday, the 14th, from the position of the logs, the
young men evidently had not worked on Saturday afternoon
after I had left them and gone to school. So, I " excused "
them all from work, docking their wages for the day. (I was
not often severe with my employees; but I was strict; for
which cause, I am aware, I earned the dislike of many of them,
especially as some of my mission associates were more lax.)
But, next day, all were working admirably. I suppose, to com-
pensate for the preceding day's rebuke. The Fan we, just new
from the wild forest, had such exaggerated ideas of my w r ealth,
and of the value of what they brought for sale. Three able-
bodied men of them came (on what was a child's errand) to sell
one "bush-light" (a torch of the okume mahogany tree gum).
My sister's strength varied. Even when sick, she taught her
three candidates. On days that she felt better, she visited the
women in the villages.
I had to be very strict not simply with boys, but even with
men, in the matter of obedience. The traders used violence,
sometimes to an extreme degree. As, of course, I never struck
my young men, I think that they imposed on what they may
316 MY OGOWE
have thought was weakness. I had but few tools, and could
replace a broken one not within two months nor nearer than
Libreville. I therefore required that a tool should be used for
no other than its specific purpose. In the morning of the 17th,
Obezyo misused a tool which I had forbidden him even to
handle; and, in the afternoon, after consideration, I told him
that I would dismiss him. In the evening, he came to seek par-
don for his disobedience, and asked to remain. But, I refused.
As my sister's health improved, she took off of my hands the
Saturday afternoon village visitation, while I was busy at the
church building, having begun to set the foundation posts.
I admitted to school only those who, I thought, were really
interested, and on whom our labor and expense (for, at that
time, the Mission still spent some money in the support of
boarding scholars) would bring us a probable return of service
in, at least, civilization. On the 28th, a lad, Nambo, was mark-
edly profuse in his thanks and demonstration of joy, when I
consented to enroll him. He came next day, bringing with him
another boy, Akaga.
Black was a pleasant companion; but, he was frequently a
nuisance by following my sister or myself in our visits. He
then made confusion with other clogs, or with the goats. He
would persist in swimming after the boat, until we had to yield
to his exhaustion, and take him in. I suppose that he remem-
bered how he had gone everywhere with his former master,
Count DeBrazza.
On October 2, Mr. Schiff sent us a present of caviare. I ap-
preciated his kind thought ; but that delicacy has never appealed
to my taste. A large company of chimpanzees passed shouting
in the forest, in the afternoon. The females were carrying
babies astride of their left hip, and their left arm around the
baby's back, exactly as our native women did. On the 4th,
another step in the erection of the church. All the posts being
in position, the men and boys succeeded in lifting the first of the
seven sills; it adjusted itself with considerable fitness to the
tops of its six supporting posts. This pleased me for the ac-
curacy of my squaring and the correctness of my measurements
as to height. Heard that Magisi, whom the French had exiled
to Coree (Cape Verde) for his attempt at food-boycott (in
November, 1878) had died there. (The action of the French
in that case had had a most salutary effect on the good order of
the river.)
On October 5, there were a number of people at service, from
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 317
Adalinananga (the town of Magisi). A little lad, Ngawe, was
so desirous to come to school, that, though he was receiving
wages, as table-boy with a Mpongwe trader, he was willing to
leave his employ, and come to Kangwe, without any wage; and
was thankful to me for accepting him! Nambo also, I enrolled
as an inquirer. Mwarogase also asked; but, I did not think him
ready. (In this matter, I differed from most of my successors.
I hesitated even to enroll this lad in the class, where he would
remain one year before baptism. Most of my associates would
have enrolled him ; and, some would have baptized him at once.
I think that, in my caution, there was gain ; for, there was less
subsequent falling away.)
The site of the church, like that of my hill dwelling, was on
a decided slope. Entering at the upper side of the building, its
floor would be only two feet from the ground. With a width
of twenty-five or thirty feet, its lower side was probably ten
feet in the air. Looking to permanency, I had chosen very thick
foundation posts ; and had left the sills unnecessarily large,
leveling them on only two sides. I had nothing like block and
tackle or crane, with which to lift them into position, only the
rude and utterly unskilled arms of the natives. In their lack of
skill, inevitable blunders resulted in accidents that might have
been fatal. One day, when the carpenter Banja attempted to
lift one of those posts to insert it into the hole prepared for it,
it fell and sprained his wrist so that he could not work. An-
other day, while one of the sills was being dragged down the
Hill, it slid unexpectedly, and almost crushed Londo. Another
day, Agaia almost crushed his leg; and, Angeka. severely bruised
a finger. He was so angered by it, that he, in spiteful tribal
feeling, accused the Nkami man Overi of purposely slipping the
log! And, another day Ndembi unskillfully got his arm wedged
between two logs so severely that it might have been broken. I
had opportunity, from time to time, for collecting objects of
natural history. Had I been simply a naturalist, that period and
the place, Kangwe, would have been very favorable for collec-
tion. But my many duties gave me no time for that, except as
natural objects came to me unsought. One day, was brought a
fine skin of an ipi (manis) ; at that time a somewhat rare ani-
mal.
There were signs of the coming rainy season; some rain, but
no thunder or lightning. As usual, in the case, the river was
rising, from rains in the Interior.
On October 10, some Fan we, of a second migration from
318 MY OGOWE
inland, came to me, and were persistent in their desire to be
allowed to settle on the Andende premises, notwithstanding the
fact that I had an occupied hut there. (I had no thought, at
that time, in how few years, it would he occupied by a white
missionary's house!) I felt annoyed at their boldness. They
returned the next day, and spoiled the thought of my forty-
fourth anniversary birthday, by trying to buy my consent with
a tusk of ivory. (That was better and more honest than Ba-
kele stealing.) But, I was most careful never to buy ivory
from a native lest I be misunderstood as a trader. Ivory, the
tribes of the forest knew, was white men's money. I drove
them away. Then, I went in a boat to the already built Faiiwe
village of Otendi, and complained to him of his tribe's rudeness.
And. then to Ndutuma's Fanwe village. There Re-Nkombe
followed me, to see what I and the Faiiwe were talking about.
What tribal jealousy!
On Tuesday, the 13th, the rainy season began, with rain,
thunder and lightning. I sat on the porch at night, and en-
joyed watching the vivid flashes. A gratifying note had come
from Bayio at Belambla, saying that all was well there. On
the 16th. I held an examination of the school. A few appeared
well : but. the majority unsatisfactory to me. Perhaps, T had
been expecting too much ; or. equally probable. T was not a good
examiner: for. T had become conscious that T did not cnjox
teaching, as my sister did, and thus could not have been a good
teacher.
JOURNEY TO BKT.AMBT.A.
On Friday, October 17, in the Nelly-Howard, with a crew of
nine. On the route. T avoided the Fanwe Cor right) bank of
the river, and touched at Tazia. whose people protested against
niv not coming oftener. Of course, T understood that their
wish for my coming was that they might sell their provisions.
Reached Anyambe-jena's just in time to escape a storm.
An employee of the Mpongwe trader. Xdeg-oma. was there,
with his cask of rum. T did not enjoy the night, under the hut's
leaky roof. With the sound of drunken voices. T slept very
little. T left early the next day. in a slight rain, against the
protest of the chief's nephew, who realized that T was indignant
at the neglect T had received. Stopped at Akilibonga's. to in-
quire about compensation for my hut burned at the late Be-
lambla murder. Tleld a short meeting at Avyake's. Tlis for-
mer attitude of respectful friendship was changed by fear fas
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 319
a result of the misfortunes of Belambla) into crude attempts at
overpoliteness. In the interest of science, I bartered for a go-
rilla skull. Reached Belambla just in time to escape another
storm. When Evangasimba Station on Corisco, was aban-
doned, many years before, the " Maluku " house, which had
been my first home in 1861, was torn down, and its lumber was
stored at Benita, and partly used there. Some of it, I, later,
brought to the Ogowe. The Maluku front door of 1861 be-
came the Belambla front door of 1875. I valued it. Belambla
would never again be occupied by a white missionary. I took
away the old treasure, and replaced it with an inferior door.
Among the employees of the outstation there had been a young
man, Lakitharambyali, whom I had dismissed for very good
cause. Bayio was re-employing him, as one of the four work-
men. I promptly dismissed the young man again.
The next day, Sunday, the 19th, he and the other three came,
on a strike, and said that if one of them was dismissed, all would
leave. I would never yield to their conspiracy, and said that
I was willing to forgive the three their threat, but that their
leader should never again serve me under any consideration.
He at once began to plead for pardon. The following day, the
20th, I paid off all four, and dismissed them. But, their rel-
atives plead so for them, that I took again the three, but on
reduced wages. Belambla was becoming very unsatisfactory.
The conduct of the place, from its first teacher Kongolo down
to Bayio, was a constant fall. As I made out his accounts, I
even began to doubt his honesty. On my down-river way. I
stopped at the island, to see Mr. and Mrs. Ermy. He gave
me two gorilla heads, two Fanwe daggers, and a small ivory-
tusk, as my marriage fee ! On the shelves of a museum in
the United States, that fee would represent a pretty sum in
money.
The placing of the fifth and last long sill for the church, on
Tuesday, October 21. was a difficult and dangerous job. In
school. I started an English class in geography, consisting of
Agaia. Ntyindiorema and Akendenge.
On Saturday, the 25th. the French boat Marabout, arrived.
And, in the afternoon, the French deputy commandant with
French doctor, and Messrs. Schiff and Sinclair came to make a
call on my sister. The commandant signed the deed of the
Kangwe mission premises. Mr. and Mrs. Ermy also called.
Sunday, the 26th, was a clear quiet day. The Galwas stayed
3 20 MY OGOWE
in their villages, being - afraid of the French. Owondo and his
wife, Sarah, and Mrs. Ermy, and their retinues came to serv-
ices, and remained to dinner and Sabbath school.
On the 29th, by invitation of Mr. Schiff, I went to 11 a. m.
breakfast with him, to meet the commandant. I did not enjoy
the occasion. There was much confusion, connected with the
quarrels which were brought to the commandant for judgment.
Some Fanwe came to see me on the 30th, four men bringing
a present of a "bush-light! " Of course, according to custom,
they, as visitors, seeking the establishment of " friendship "
(i. e., that I should make a return gift some time in the early
future) they were in order in bringing some gift. I did not
despise small things. And. my returns were always (as ex-
pected) larger. Had a child brought me that torch, I would
have accepted it with pleasure. Not to accept a gift is ("the
world over) a discourtesy. But, the idea of four stalwart men,
and an almost worthless torch ! It was almost insulting. On
Saturday. November 1, while out on my visitations. I heard
the signal-guns of the Mpongwc. I hasted to the main stream,
to meet the vessel at the German House. A sudden wind-storm
came up. and broke the boat's awning. I reached the steamer's
side just as she was dropping her anchor. And was delighted
to find on hoard Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler. Mrs. Smith, and a
christian Batanga woman. Bekalidi. Rain overtook us as we
climbed Kangwe Hill. The ladies were surprised at its height.
There was a glad welcome for my guests. On Sunday, the 2d,
women came from the villages to see the visitors. Even Fa-
nwe came to Sabbath school. And. in the evening, we en-
joyed the singing of Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler. In the evening of
Tuesday, the 4th, boys from the Nkami Tgolino came in haste
to tell me that they heard the beat of the Pioneer's paddles
down our branch of the river. And. soon, boys from the water-
side hut said that they saw it in sight. I gave the prayer meet-
ing into Dr. Bacheler's hands: and, in the Nelly-Howard, fol-
lowed the steamer to Aguma, and found Mr. Menkel on board.
T hoped that he had come, though late, in fulfillment of his
promise to build the church for me.
T had just settled myself for writing letters in the afternoon
of the 6th, when Captain Stephens of the Pioneer, with Messrs.
Sinclair and Surry came with Dr. Bacheler. who had met them
at the water-side, where he was getting out the boat to go and
call on them. They remained to tea. Tt was an unprecedented
collection of white people at Kangwe. "With sister and myself
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 321
as host and hostess, and the three visitors, and my four guests,
there were nine in all ! In the evening, I played a flute duet
with Dr. Bacheler.
On Saturday, November 8, my ankle, which I had lamed, in
helping to house the boat on the night of the 4th, became so
painful that I could not walk. I had to cease work, and lie
down. Dr. Bacheler went in my place for the village visitation.
And Licentiate Kongolo took the Sunday services.
It was very trying that some of the employees took advantage
of my inability. Dr. Bacheler was only my guest, and, of
course, had no authority to direct ; but, he reported to me the
slow work of the men. I had myself carried in a hammock
down the Hill ; lying in it, I was able to give some directions.
My sister also was frequently sick in her room.
On the 14th. Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler and Mrs. Smith, on in-
vitation, went to a " breakfast " at Aguma. My sister and I
were too sick to accept. Sunday, the 16th, was a beautiful
clear day, and a large number, about 70, were present at serv-
ices.
The next day. my foot was better, and I was able to limp
down the Hill, and inspect work on the church. Candidate Pe-
tiye was very annoying. He was my sister's pupil, during half
of the day. With her teaching, I did not interfere in the slight-
est manner, leaving to her the enjoyment of full control. But,
t he other half of the day, her pupils were my workmen, under my
pay. I accorded them the respect of not finding fault with
them in the presence of the other workmen. Petiye played on
this, by doing before me what he knew I would have rebuked in
the others. He soon learned also, that in a complaint from
me to his teacher, sympathy would be accorded him by her.
For, as a result of my sister's long nervous strain, her views
had become abnormal, and. wrapped up in her special pupils, she
seemed to think that they could do no wrong. This had a bad
effect on the discipline of the station. Dr. Bacheler was my
guest, and. as such I endeavored to make him comfortable.
But. his smoking became so great a discomfort to me, that I had
to request him not to smoke in the house, but to take a stroll
in the forest with his pipe. He was sent for by the German
house, to prescribe for Mr. Neumann, who was sick.
The ten days from November 23 to December 3 were days full
of excitement. I do not remember any other seven consecutive
days in my African life, up to that time, so crowded with such
a series of anxieties and excitements. The schoolbovs, led bv
322 MY OGOWE
Nguva and Mamba, had held, against my advice, a play in
mockery of the great Ogowe superstition of Yasi, a society
similar to the " Ukuku " of the Benga tribes. As a result, the
angry heathen had proclaimed a boycott against me, and had
threatened to kill Nguva. The young men guarded the Kangwe
premises at night ; but, Nguva went away, believing that he
would be safer at his own village in Wombalya. My unusual
company of guests, with the three attendants they had brought
with them, increased my responsibilities. And. just before the
Yasi play, many new pupils had come to school. Mamba's
mother came with Ayenwe, the betrothed wife of Bayio; they
and their people, as my guests, for some days, added to my cares.
Ayenwe remained for marriage, and the others returned to
Igenja, to call Awora to come to the organization of the church.
He arrived on Monday, November 24, with Sambunaga's wife
and a company of four, making my household still larger. And,
he brought word that the Wombalya people were making threats
against Nguva's life, charging him with having revealed to me
and to women the secrets of their Yasi Society. I sent a crew
of five, in the kongongo, to Belambla, to bring Bayio and Sambu-
naga, for the church organization. That night, Nguva's cou-
sin. Aveya and others asked leave of absence that they might go
to inquire about him.
Aveya's company returned at noon of Tuesday, the 25th ; re-
porting that the quarrel about Nguva was very bad. and that his
life was really in danger. In the afternoon, I took Dr. and Mrs.
Bacheler and Mrs. Smith, on excursion in my boat to Inenga
to see King Ra-Noki. He was dressed in a great deal of gaudy
trappings. Returning, we stopped at Aguma. Dr. Bacheler
and Mr. Sinclair were very much excited about the affair of
Nguva. and they decided to go to his rescue, in an offensive at-
tack. I had not the health to go; and, moreover, doubted the
wisdom, in that stage of the Mission's life, of resorting to arms,
for other than defense. In the evening, at prayer meeting, I
yielded so far as to call for volunteers to go with Dr. Bacheler.
More than fifteen of the young men offered! I chose ten of
them, and gave them arms. It was quite an exciting evening.
I was up late at night, putting the boat in readiness, and pack-
ing food, medicines, and weapons, for Dr. Bacheler and Mr.
Menkel, for their early start next day. Early in the morning of
Wednesday, the 26th, Mr. Sinclair arrived in his canoe, and
ioined Dr. Bacheler in my boat; and thev started down-river.
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 323
They returned about 1 p. m. of the next day, the 27th, with
Nguva (the chains with which his own people had bound him
still hanging on him) and another young man, Ntyuwa, having
rescued them both. The gentlemen gave a thrilling account of
their search for, discovery of, and rescue of Nguva. [In my
"In an Elephant Corral," Neale, 1912; I give in detail the
story of Nguva's chain.]
The arrival of Bayio and Sambunaga from Belambla had
made the premises still more crowded. And, all those days, I
was bearing an hourly anxiety in regard to my sister. She was
sick; unable to leave her room; was in an hysterical state, op-
pressed with hallucinations ; would not take any medicine volun-
tarily, nor could be forced by any of us to take any. Petiye was
the only one who could influence her. Also, we were all under
great excitement, expecting that the Galwas would assault Ka-
ngwe, in revenge for Dr. Bacheler's attack on their village.
Friday, November 28. was a notable day. Like Nehemiah. I
was laying church foundations " in troublous times." As com-
mittee, by direction of presbytery, in the afternoon, I held a
meeting, and formally organized the First Ogowe Church. The
seven charter members were. Mbora, Mamba, Abumba, and
Awora, with letters from the Gaboon church ; Nguva and
Aveya. with letters from the Benita church; and Dr. Bacheler
with letter from Summit, N. J., in the United States. The or-
der of exercises was: 1, A hymn; 2, Prayer; 3, Reading of
Scripture, Nehemiah, parts of chapters 6 and 7; 4, Statement
of presbvterial action, and calling of the roll of the seven ap-
plicants for organization; 5. Prayer of organization; 6, Address
to the church, giving to it Licentiate Kongolo, as its stated sup-
ply; 7, Benediction. After a short recess, I held a congrega-
tional meeting; and Dr. Bacheler was elected, ordained, and in-
stalled as ruling elder. The order of exercises was: 1, Hymn;
2, Scripture: 3. Explanation of the office of ruling elder; 4, Elec-
tion of Dr. Bacheler; 5, Ordination and installation: (1), Read-
ing of 1. Tim. 3; (2), The Form, from the Book of Order; (3),
Address to Dr. Bacheler: (4), Prayer; (5), Doxology.
After another recess, Bayio and Ayenwe, and Sambunaga and
his wife were married in christian ceremony. Messrs. Sinclair
and Surry were present. It was a great day in the history of
the Ogowe Mission ; and a long step in the civilization of the
Ogowe River.
On Saturday evening, a session meeting was held, Licentiate
3-4 MY OGOWE
Kongolo present by invitation. Six applicants for baptism
were examined ; and three of them, Agaia, Bayio, and Sambu-
naga were accepted.
In the afternoon, I had visited and preached at Adalinananga ;
and had warned the old men al>out their threats against the
Kangwe schoolboys and young men.
Sunday the 30th, was a glad day. The three young men were
baptized. But, we had to refrain from singing, on account of
the state of my sister's head. During the following days, the
various companies scattered to their usual homes.
On Saturday, December 6, I escorted Mrs. Smith and Mr.
Menkel, to Aguma, as passengers on the .Pioneer (which had
arrived from Gaboon on November 29), to be ready for its early
start next morning back to Libreville.
In the very early hours of Sunday, December 7, I was awak-
ened by the firing of guns, apparently near the Nkami Igolino.
Thinking that it was an attack by the Yasi people. I hasted there
with my rifle, accompanied by Aveya, Mbora, and Petiye. But,
we found that the firing was from the opposite side of the river
at a Shekani village near Atangina. My sister's health began to
improve, and my anxiety for her was relieved. But, the school
still had some fears about the result of the Yasi " palaver."
As the days passed, stfeady work was resumed on the church,
the frames of the walls being up, and the bamboo being rapidly
tied on them. And Fan we became more frequent and friendly
in their visits. .And. Re-Nkombe resumed his professed friend-
ship, that had been interrupted by the Nguva affair.
By December 10, other distractions lessened the public feel-
ing on that matter. The Yasi people themselves seemed to be-
gin to be afraid. The center of the ill-feeling toward me was
not in the Kangwe region, but down-river in the Wombalva
villages. T saw the canoe of the Yasi delegates from there de-
part down-river, as if they were retiring from the contest. And,
those people had even a quarrel among themselves. Also, the
Bakele on the Xgunve had attacked and wounded one of Mr.
Sinclair's Mpongwe traders, and killed one of his crew.
By the 16th, the church walls were strong enough for me to
begin to put on the bamboo ntci'c (rafters) of the roof; and, a
few days later, the ngonja (thatch) were placed on half of it.
I wished to have it under cover before my journey for the an-
nual meetings at Libreville. And the inevitable preparatory
journey was to be made to Belambla.
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 325
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
On Thursday, December 22, as I started from my landing, I
saw the Pioneer coming slowly up our branch, on its return from
Gaboon. It towed me the mile to Eyenano; and, as it there
turned into the main stream, I cast off, and went on my way,
reading a mail which the steamer had brought. Stopped for
the night on Katya Island. And, the next day, at my usual after-
noon hour, was at Belambla. I hastily began to take accounts
with Bayio. Nothing special happened, except that, the next
day, an Akele, in pursuing two boys for some offense, followed
them on to my premises, where they had taken refuge. I re-
turned to Kangwe that day.
I did not think of " Christmas " on the 25th. All day, I was
busy settling accounts with the employees, and arranging for
those who were to guard the premises during my absence at
Libreville. At night, as Dr. Bacheler was probably to be my
successor, he was interested in helping me take the annual stock
of goods, etc. This occupied me until 2 a. m. of Friday, the
26th. In the afternoon of which day, Dr. Bacheler held the
school final examination for me. Both the Pioneer and the
Mpongzue were in the river ; and, though I had expected to make
the Gaboon journey in the Nelly-Howard, and had made the
usual engagement with Mr. Menkel to meet me at the river's
mouth on a certain date, it was decided, because of my sister's
weak state of health, to go by the Pioneer, which was to start
Sunday morning, the 28th. Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler, and my sis-
ter and I went on board Saturday evening, the 27th, with my
crew of seven, and Petiye and another young man, and my boat
in tow.
But Sunday travel was so repugnant to my feelings, espe-
cially as there was no opportunity for services on board the
Pioneer, that during the afternoon of the 28th, I cast off the
boat with my crew, and went ashore to Nango, for a meeting.
But there were only four people there; the remainder were all
away. My friend Re-Buka and his amiable wife Mburu were
gone. She was in chains, on a witchcraft charge ! I was in-
dignant that that superstition should have touched that kind
woman ! And went on to Onanga's Rango, and held a meet-
ing there.
On Monday the 29th, went on to Angala, and was welcomed
by old King Esongi, and carpenter Banja. Was told that the
326 MY OGOWE
Pioneer had passed down during the morning. I remained there,
writing my annual report.
During the morning of Tuesday, the 30th, to my agreeable
surprise, the Mpongwe came down. Leaving one of my men in
charge of the boat at Angala. the others and I took passage on
the Mpongwe. At the river's mouth, met and saluted the Hud-
son, directing it to follow us ; and, on the Mpongwe, ran all night
in a cold rain. By early daylight of Wednesday, the 31st, en-
tered Libreville harbor. The first news was the sight of the
Pioneer at anchor, and its flag at half-mast. Mr. Surry had
died on the journey. And, at Baraka, where I found my sister
safe, were also Mrs. Bushnell and a new missionary, Miss Cam-
eron, who had arrived from the United States, on Saturday,
December 27. But, Dr. Bushnell had died of pneumonia on the
African steamer, on December 2, and had been buried at Sierra
Leone. In the afternoon, we buried Mr. Surry.
On Thursday, January 1, 1880, I did not bid any one, " Happy
Xew Year," I was sad for Mrs. Bushnell. She had brought me
a letter, almost a year old, from a dear friend, Mrs. Williams,
of Detroit, and her lovely daughter. Miss Louise. I said to my-
self, I shall see her when I go to America!
On Sunday, January 4, I preached for Mr. Murphy, making
a memorial of Rev. A. Bushnell, D.D., on the words, " If I will
that he tarry till I come . . . follow thou Me." An excellent
monthly concert in the afternoon. And a helpful native serv-
ice in the evening. The subsequent days were busy ones. Pres-
bytery organized on evening of the 5th.
On Tuesday evening, Candidate Petiye was licensed, and
sent to Batanga Church. On Wednesday evening. Licentiate
Xtaka Truman was ordained. So few were our numbers, and
changes and removals so frequent, that his ordination seemed
necessary simply for the preservation of the presbytery's organic
life. And, in mission meeting, my sister and I were given fur-
lough to the United States, and Mrs. Smith was appointed with
Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler to Kangwe. Mr. Murphy's term of serv-
ice was ended ; and he decided, as soon as Rev. Wm. Walker
should arrive, to return to the United States. It was necessary
to have a minister in charge of Gaboon Church.
Though the surprising news had come that Rev. Wm. Walker
was returning to Africa (after an absence of nine years) ap-
]K)inted by our Presbyterian Board, for the sole purpose of com-
pleting the translation of the Mpongwe Scriptures, it was not
expected that he would have any other functions in the mission,
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 327
and certainly not in the presbytery. As to the church, of course,
he would preach ; but he could not be given charge of the session.
For, he was a hearty Congregationalist, and had refused to even
formally join our presbytery (as I had advised him to do, in
some correspondence he and I had had on the subject of his
return). So, it was deemed proper to place the Rev. Mr. Tru-
man in charge of Gaboon Church.
On Sunday, January n, Rev. Mr. Ibiya, of Corisco, preached
in the morning; and Rev. Mr. Truman held Sabbath school.
JOURNEY TO NAZARETH BAY.
On Thursday evening, January 15, leaving my sister at Ba-
raka, I boarded the Hudson with Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler and
Airs. Smith. It was necessary for me to go to Kangwe, to bring
away some of our possessions. And, I thought it kind and de-
sirable for me formally to hand over the station affairs to Dr.
Bacheler. But, subsequent events at Kangwe made me feel that
my going there at that time was unwise.
The voyage, as usual, was a trying one. Though I was not
as severely seasick as formerly, Air. Menkel's rudeness and vio-
lence were a great test on my patience. To him, the voyages
were pleasure excursions. That they were long did not trouble
him. He lost many opportunities of progress by desirable
changes in wind and tide, which I keenly saw, as I lay wearily
on deck, taking only snatches of sleep at intervals of day and
night, but which he did not see in his solid sleep in the berth
below.
As the tide was against us, we made only the ten miles across
the width of the Gaboon estuary, that night, anchoring on King
William's side at 1 a. m. of Friday, the 16th. I lay awake watch-
ing signs. When, at 4.30 a. m., I saw that, though the tide was
still against us, the wind was favorable, I ventured to waken Mr.
Menkel, and asked him to take up anchor. With the wind, aided
by oars, we rounded Pongara Point ; and then the wind took us
out to sea. Then there was the usual succession of days. Fri-
day, the 1 6th, Saturday, the 17th, Sunday, the 18th, tacking with
variations of wind and calm, rough sea and smooth, heat and
rain, passing Gangwe Point, Round Hill, and Sangatanga ; un-
til, at midnight of Monday, the 19th, we anchored in Nazareth
Bay. to await the turn of the tide. Lying restlessly awake on
the deck, I saw, by 5 a. m. of the 20th, that although the wind
was against us, the tide had turned. Again, I ventured to waken
Air. Menkel, and begged him to take up anchor, and allow the
328 MY OGOW'R
tide to drift us to the river's mouth. He kept too far from shore,
and tacked back and forth over a mud bank where the water was
so shallow that occasionally the keel touched. I protested to
him that I knew that the deeper channel was near shore. He
gave me an insulting reply, because of his " captaincy." How-
ever, he consented to throw the lead, and was surprised at the
shallowness. Then, he turned the rudder, and, in a short time
we were in the safe deep channel of which I had informed him.
I sent the large canoe, for Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler and Mrs.
Xgwa-nyani, at Abun-awiri, to ask for his large canoe, in which
to take us ashore. After a long while, a canoe came; but, it
was not the large one I had wished for the ladies. T went ashore
without them; and was detained there by a rain-storm. Then.
I sent the large canoe, for Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler and Mrs.
Smith. While waiting in the village, I bargained with Xgwa-
nyani for a canoe and crew of seven men and boys, to carry me
to Angala. He saw my necessity, and took advantage of it, to
ask big pay. As soon as the other canoe returned with the
ladies and Dr. Bacheler from the Hudson, leaving them in
Xgwa-nyani's care. I took it, with my own six crew and the
other seven hired Orungu. back to the vessel, and loaded part
of our goods. Mr. Menkel was in a better frame of mind, and
apologized for his rudeness, as I left the vessel's side at dusk, to
make the all-night pull up the river. The united crews were
fresh, had well eaten, and pulled well until midnight, when the
younger ones tired. But, we kept on. and reached Angala at
daylight of Wednesday, the 21st. After the two crews had
eaten their breakfast. I paid and dismissed the seven Orungu,
and they returned with their canoe down-river. And, then, my
own crew got out the Xclly-Howard that had been left in King
Ksongi's care: and I sent them back to Abun-awiri, to bring Dr.
and Mrs. Bacheler and Mrs. Smith. "W nile they were away, I
rested ; and went in a canoe to 55ombi, to see whether the boat
Onanga was making for me was finished. As it was not. I re-
turned to Angala.
On Thursday, the 22d, bargained with Esongi for a native
boat of his son Ndambenje and crew to Kangwe. He was mark-
edly different from Xgwa-nyani. in the aid he gave me. At sun-
down, the Nelly-Howard and company arrived safely.
JOURNEY UP THE RIVER.
On Friday, the 23d, was busy putting seats into X T dambenje's
boat. And began the up-river journey, Dr. Bacheler in charge
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 329
of the Nelly-Hozvard; I of the other boat. At ffango, was glad
to hear that friend Re-Buka's wife, though still a captive on the
witchcraft charge, was not in danger for her life.
On Saturday, the 24th, reached Esira, where we were well re-
ceived for the night and over Sunday. On Monday, the 26th,
after having given gifts, and made good-bys, we went on.
Stopped in the forest for noon meal, near a new village, the
head-man of which came to us with his little boy Re-Nkagu, as a
pupil for the school. Passing Ngumbi, we stopped for the night
at a village near Avanga.
On Tuesday, January 27, on to Ashuka, in Re-Teno's Ivili
village. My friend Njivo's aunt Anyure was there with a
brother of Laseni, who was sick with leprosy. I left a note
with her for Njivo, to be sent into the lake. Heard word also
from Kangwe, that there was scarcity of food there. So, I
bought food on the way. Spent the night at Awora's Igenja
village. On Wednesday, the 28th, pulled on rapidly, lunching in
the forest; and, passing Nandipo, and Oranga, and Aromba,
stopped for the night opposite to the lake's second entrance. I
slept on the beach, giving up the boat to Mrs. Smith, who was
protected from threatened rain, by two old sails I had brought
from the Hudson. Only a little rain fell. The spot where we
camped was on the opposite side of the river from the village of
Dr. Bacheler's rescue of Nguva, but, hidden from its view by a
projecting point of land. On Thursday, the 29th, we pulled
past that village with some caution, remembering threats which
had been made by its people against me. (According to native
point of view, I was held responsible for the acts of my guest,
Dr. Bacheler. ) But. nothing unpleasant was said or done; the
people saluted us with apparent cordiality, and wished us to stop
and buy provisions. But, the ladies desired to haste. After 9
a. m. breakfast in Zintango's Wombalya village, where a new
girl was given Mrs. Bacheler for school, we hasted on, the ladies
urging us to finish the journey that day. For that reason, we
stopped only at Ginigo, to take on board Aveya's wife. To my
surprise, my native boat kept ahead of the other. At dusk, we
were in sight of Kangwe Hill, and ate in the forest. I do not
know, to this day, why Dr. Bacheler seemed displeased at me.
I was willing to defer to him as my successor; and, he seemed
to insist that I should still take precedence. But, our lunch was
not a happy one. Mrs. Bacheler was admirable in tactful
smoothing of difficulties. We pulled on in the dark; and, as we
passed Atangina, in full view of Kangwe, rain fell. And, at
33Q MY OGOWE
9 p. m., we landed, with a trying job of climbing the slippery hill,
and tired crews carrying our goods to secure them from farther
wetting. Went to bed late. As a final duty, before handing
over the station to Dr. Bacheler, I was to go to Belambla, to
remove Bayio, and place there some one more reliable. When,
at morning prayer of Saturday, the 31st, I asked for volunteers,
I was disappointed that there was no prompt response. Mamba
finally consented.
JOURNEY TO BELAMBLA.
Starting with only Mamba as volunteer, on February 2, I re-
quired Nkange and Overi to go as his associates, for one month,
until Awora should arrive from Igenja. Reached Belambla at
the usual afternoon hour of the next day. The house and
grounds were deserted, the grass over-grown, and white ants in
the house ; Bayio having gone to live in one of the villages, and
teaching the boys there. In the evening, I paid him and the as-
sistants, and dismissed him from Belambla, but allowed him to
return to Kangwe. He was disposed to be impertinent.
The next day, leaving Mamba with goods for his support, I
returned to Kangwe. It was a sad ending of my hopes for Be-
lambla.
The next day, Thursday, February 5, I paid off all obliga-
tions and accounts, preparatory to handing the affairs of the sta-
tion over to Dr. Bacheler. Which I formally did next day, at
morning prayers, in the presence of the entire household. And,
at once, I went to my own jobs of packing. In the afternoon,
Dr. Bacheler was sent for by Mr. Sinclair, who was sick ; and,
he asked me to attend to the giving out of .the daily rations.
And, then began a great sorrow. As long as Dr. Bacheler had
been my guest, I held control of all the affairs of the station.
Knowing that Africans recognize, between two or more white
employers, only one as master, I had retained my authority, only
occasionally asking his assistance as a favor, in substitution.
But, when I laid down that authority to him as my successor, I
did it definitely and unqualifiedly. I was still willing to do any-
thing; but, carefully would not assume to do without request. I
willingly gave out the rations ; but, as the Doctor had said noth-
ing about evening prayer and inquiry class, I did not attend to
them. I thought then, and think still, that I was right. The
tables of authority and responsibility had utterly been turned.
If he, in failure of courtesy, or in forgetfulness, or for any other
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 331
reason, did not request me, I had no right to assume to act. I
was a stranger, and only his guest. But, on their return at night,
Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler were annoyed that I had not assumed to
take charge.
The next Saturday afternoon, Dr. Bacheler was away again;
and I gave out the day's rations of plantains, and of salt as usual
the amount for one week. Food was scarce; and I had to
shorten the ration. And, of salt there was none. So, in kind-
ness ( as I thought ) , I gave out some coarse rock-salt from the
bottom of a meat-barrel. It was perfectly good for food. I
would have eaten it myself. Only, it was dark; but, its meat
odor was not of putrefaction. Even if it had been, that should
have been no ground of objection from boys who in their
villages, frequently ate decayed meat. And, only ten years be-
fore, to those same natives, salt had been such a rarity, that, gen-
erally, they had had none.
On the Sunday morning, I preached my good-by sermon. Dr.
Bacheler conducted Sabbath school in the afternoon. In the
evening, when he gave out the day's rations, I ventured to advise
him to shorten them, and substitute farinya (which, though not
preferred, was frequently used in all the river, on emergencies)
until more plantains could be gotten next day. He did so. The
boys took the food derisively; and, an hour or so later, Agaia,
followed by Mwarogaso, Pendiningani, and Zintango, came
hastily back, and deposited their plantains, farinya and salt on
the ground near the kitchen. And, Agaia came to me, and in-
solently informed me that they refused the food. There was
evidently bad blood ; of which I had had no suspicion. At even-
ing prayers, none of the Galwas came, only the coast-tribe as-
sistants, Licentiate Kongolo, and Teachers, Mbora, Melumu, and
Yaka, and the new little Nkami lad Re-Nkagu. After prayers,
Dr. Bacheler and I went out to the kitchen, to lock it for the
night. Cook Oyembo offered to do it, but the Doctor promptly
told him that his work for him was at an end. I felt gratified
at his defense of me.
At Monday morning prayers, February 9, Dr. Bacheler took
a list of all who had refused the rations. Everyone of the Ga-
lwas, young and old, even the church members, admitted that
they were in the conspiracy. To prove that it was a conspiracy,
Agaia arose, and, in the name of the whole company, insultingly
denounced me. I made only a mild reply ; for, I thought that it
was the part of the new head of the station to defend his guest
by punishing some of them. He did not do so. He told me that
332 MY OGOW'K
he did not wish his administration to begin with the scattering of
the school ; that it ought to be saved at any cost. He went
around among the boys during the day. I never knew what he
said or did. But, in the evening, when the boys came for food,
he gave it to them, without having required them to first make
an apology to me. Before we retired for the night, I made a
polite protest to him. against his leaving me thus exposed to in-
sult. To guard a guest, had, with me, been a greater duty than
to protect one's self.
The next morning, Tuesday, the ioth, Dr. Bacheler, deciding
that the mass of the school were innocent (which probably was
true) reinstated them all, excepting Agaia, Bayio, Akendenge.
and Oyembo. Presently, he pardoned the latter (which also I
requested, Mrs. Bacheler needing him in the kitchen). Then,
the other three came and asked my forgiveness. That was not
according to divine order; they had already been forgiven, with-
out expression of repentance. They said that they were sincere.
I believed that their acknowledgment was perfunctory; and it
came too late. But. they being professed Christians. I had to
accept them, on the " seventy-times-seven " rule. However,
Agaia's wound in my heart never healed. Mr. Sinclair kindly
sent a canoe for my many pieces of baggage. And, in the after-
noon, he sent his boat and special crew for myself. For, after
their bitter words to me. in utter disregard of all I had done for
them, I did not wish the Kangwe boys to take me. I reflected :
Perhaps their rebellion was inevitable. I had held them long
with a consistently firm (but, never severe) hand. (For the
reason that the negro, in any company, recognizes but one as
master, Livingstone had never allowed another white man to
travel with him. Most of Stanley's sorrows arose from his
white associates.) In Dr. Bacheler, the boys at once saw a
hand that though sometimes more severe than mine, was usually
lax. Perhaps also with a few. some old revenge had been
lighted as a spark by the incident of the salt. Schoolboy sym-
pathy had allowed it to spread. And, the Doctor's offer of con-
ciliation to them, in advance of any regrets from them to me,
had left me defenseless. But, negroes are very mercurial.
With equal facility they forget both kindness and unkindness.
And, the parting at the Kangwe boat-shed was a tearful one.
The tears which T most valued were Mrs. Smith's. In the en-
tire lamentable affair, she. from the first, gave me her pronounced
sympathy. Some of the boys wished to accompany me: but, I
accepted only little Re-Xkagu.
ON THE KANGWE HILL-SIDE 333
At supper at Aguma, were Mr. Ermy, and the German cap-
tain, Oestenvold. At night, Dr. Bacheler, in the Nelly-How-
ard, followed me, and took me to the Pioneer, which was lying
out in the main stream, near the German house. There, I bade
good-by to him, to Mr. Sinclair and Mr. Ermy, and to the
Kangwe crew which consisted of Ogula, Joktan, Bwelo, Re-
Ganjwe, Pendaningani, and little Re-Xkagu.
After they were gone, I went ashore with the captain, to say
good-by to Mr. Schiff at the German house. And, on returning
to the Pioneer, I found there awaiting me, to assure me of their
repentance, Aveya and Sambunaga. I believed that they were
sincere. Also, the Benita, Yaka, had come with his sympathy.
I was wearied with my emotions. I had entered the river in
1874. with a prejudice against the Galwa tribe, and therefore
had gone to the Bakele. Subsequently, while I found that there
were real bases for that prejudice, I saw that the Bakele were
even worse ; and had learned to love the Galwas, especially of
the Igenja district. The cruel assault of Agaia and his asso-
ciates was a bitter cup for me. But, I continued to love and
serve the tribe, in later years.
LEAVING MY OGOWE.
On Wednesday, February it. at sunrise, the Pioneer started
down-stream. With a heavy heart I was leaving the loved river,
on the same vessel that, more than five years before, had brought
me, in such buoyant hopes, to its shores and its tribes. As we
steamed rapidly with the current, I took last sharp looks at each
village that we passed. Passing Oranga, I was recognized by
Akai and the other boys who were on vacation at their homes
there. And. at Igenja. was recognized by Awora. Eliva-ntyani,
and other former employees. By 7 p. m., anchored at Angala.
I hesitated, in my mixed emotions, to go ashore, and remained
on the vessel. On the 12th, we emerged at the river's mouth
safely, with the tide at half-ebb. And. out to a sea that now was
smooth and pleasant. (How much T had suffered from it, in
the Hudson!) And. anchored, in sight of Gumbe Point before
dark.
On Friday, the 13th, entered the Gaboon estuary; and was at
anchor in Libreville harbor, by 1 1 a. m. Went to Mrs. Bush-
nell at the " upper " Baraka house, and rested. My sister was
not there. During my absence at Kangwe, she had gone on the
Hudson, to see her loved Benita. In the afternoon, I called on
Mr. Murphy at his " lower " Baraka house. And, making a
334 MY OGOWE
courtesy-call on Mr. Jobet, the agent of H. & C, he kindly
furnished me a canoe and crew with which to land my goods
from the Pioneer; his people faithfully carried them for me to
Baraka.
CHAPTER XIX
ON A FURLOUGH FEBRUARY, 1880-DECEMBER, 1 88 1
PRACTICALLY, my furlough began with my arrival at
Libreville. For, though I was detained there a month,
waiting for a Liverpool steamer, I was free all that time,
without duty or responsibility. But, it was not an idle time.
There then began a long suffering from piles, induced by the
mental excitement and irregular eating of the previous two
weeks that made my voyage to the United States, and for many
months after my arrival there, a daily physical agony; that
made sitting a distress, and that interfered with the comfort of
anything I did in visits, church going, addresses, entertainments,
and everything.
While waiting for an expected ocean-steamer, the Benin, for
the voyage to Liverpool, I occupied myself in Fafiwe transla-
tions, with Rev. Mr. Truman ; and collecting African photo-
graphs from the photographer Joaque ; and buying leopard skins
and many other curios for gifts to friends in the United States.
About 10 p. m. of the 17th, after I had retired, Mr. Menkel
knocked at my door, saying that he had just arrived with the
Hudson from Benita, with my sister; and that, she was "com-
fortable." That being so, I thought it would be kind not to
disturb her at the late hour, and advised that she remain there
until the morning. But, after some delay, Mr. Murphy sent to
the vessel, and brought her and Mrs. Sneed, Mr. Menkel's
mother-in-law, ashore.
By 9 a. m. of the 18th, the Benin came in from the north,
having on board Rev. Wm. Walker, and Count DeBrazza. That
steamer was to go on south, and would not return for several
weeks. So, there was ample time for my sister to get every-
thing ready for our voyage to Liverpool. On Sunday, the 29th,
after supper, I enjoyed singing with Miss L. B. Walker (no rela-
tive of Rev. Wm. Walker). Some one remarked on the fact
of that month having had five Sundays ; and, then the assertion
was made that that would not occur again for 40 years, in 1920.
On Wednesday, March 3, two American sailing vessels came in,
the Cardenas, Captain Yates, and the Liberia, Captain Fawcett.
335
336 MY OGOWE
Mr. Walker's goods had been brought by those vessels, and
were being landed on the 4th. And, I sent on board the Liberia,
some of my boxes and a number of parrots. Count DeBrazza
called on the ladies at the upper Baraka ; and I took him to
see rny sister at the lower house.
On the evening of Friday, the 12th, I had a particularly pleas-
ant time, singing with my sister, and the Misses Jones and
Walker, in Miss Walker's room. Saturday, the 13th, was an anx-
ious day. The two sailing vessels were to leave within a week.
Mr. Walker advised us to go by one of them, instead of by
steamer. But, both the Pioneer and Mpongzve were expected in
a few days, and they might have mail for us from Benita or
Ogowe. And. the Benin was expected daily. If we decided to
take passage on it should we go on board on a Sunday? After
serious consultation, my sister and I decided that, after all our
careful regard for the Sabbath, and entire avoidance of Sunday
travel, we would not begin our long journey to Liverpool, on the
Benin, if it should arrive the next day and leave on the same day.
So, on Sunday, the T4th. we had a quiet restful day: we felt
that we had done well in our decision. And. the Benin did not
come. But, in the evening, came the Mpongzce from Elobi.
with part of a mail from the north. It brought me a letter
from my friend Rev. Dr. Kellogg of Pittsburg, urging the ad-
vance of our Mission info the Kongo River. T sympathized
deeply in his interest for Africa (particularly as his own work
had been in India). But. T could do nothing, as I was on the
very eve of temporarily leaving the African continent. And.
that advance was, for us. too late; it should have been made in
\R~2 (but. the Mission had refused at that time). It might still
have been made by me in T874 (instead of the Ogowe) if the
Mission had consented. Tn the interim, other christian bodies
had entered the Kongo, and were dong work there.
Mrs. Bushnell had sad news: the ocean steamers refused (be-
cause of seamen's superstitions) to disinter Dr. Bushnell's body,
and bring it from Sierra Leone to Libreville.
Karlv in the morning of March 17. the Benin came in from
the south. Hastily, Mr. Murphy took my boxes off to the ves-
sel : and returned with word that it would not leave until the
next day.
VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL.
As I am writing only the story of my Ogowe, I shall make
only hasty reference to the places and persons and incidents met
ON A FURLOUGH 337
during my absence from it, on the route to, and in the United
States. Early in the morning of Thursday, March 18, sister
and I went to the beach to embark on the Benin, accompanied
by Mrs. Bushnell, Mr. Murphy, Misses Jones and Walker, and
some of the larger schoolgirls, among them Mrs. Bushnell's
trusted native assistants, Mrs. Julia Green and Jane Harrington,
elder sister of my friend Njivo. The little schoolboys wished
to crowd into the boat to accompany us to the steamer, but Mr.
Murphy gave the seats to the Misses Jones and Walker. The
master of the Benin was Captain Thomas, the purser was Mr.
Denny. There were only a few other passengers, Messrs. Find-
ley and Schwartz, and a Swiss of Gaboon, and a Mr. Foster from
Ambriz. Captain Jonathan Holt, a Gaboon merchant, was on
board, endeavoring to embark some of his produce. I watched
with interest our steaming into Corisco Bay, past Corisco Island,
around it, and near Mbangwe Point on the north mainland
shore, the former home of the native pastor of the Corisco
church. Rev. Mr. Ibiya. And, then to anchor at Elobi Island, op-
posite the mouth of river Muni, where great quantities of
ivory were being taken aboard. On Friday, 19, the steamer
moved slowly with the low tide out of the bay, around Cape St.
John, and out to sea; out of sight of land, so that we got no
view of either the Benita or Batanga coasts, and passed Fer-
nando Po Island at night, keeping straight on to Bonny, on the
Niger coast, where we anchored in afternoon of the 20th. In
the captain's boat, I went ashore, and made a call at the British
Established Church Mission, under the charge of Rev. and
Mrs. Crowther, son of the distinguished negro Bishop
Crowther. The next day. Sunday 2T, I again went ashore,
accompanied by Mr. Findlev, to attend church, at the Mission
where I met a Mr. Campbell, of Lagos, and a Rev. Mr. Boyle.
At Bonny, was anchored, as a trading-hulk, the home of
white men, rather than on the low marshy grounds ashore, the
Adriatic, formerly an American trans-Atlantic passenger vessel.
On the 22(1. T supplied myself with a quantity of the hand-
somely wrought Bonny grass basket-ware, for gifts to friends
in the United States. The steamer left in the afternoon. That
dav. the wind was so strong, and sea so rough, that the port-
holes had to be closed. Doctor Bennett gave me a medicine
(whose name he would not tell me, but it sounded like prussie
acid) that relieved my seasickness more than any medicine I had
ever taken for that purpose. At night, the steamer stopped,
uncertain of its bearings.
338 MY OGOWE
And, at daylight of the 24th. proceeded to Lagos, arriving
there early in the morning. All day, it was loading palm-
kernels, lying several miles from shore in the road-stead ; for,
Lagos had no harbor. On the 25th, the steamer lay idle half
the time; for, the small freighter Gaiser, that was assisting us,
took away half of its boats, in order to serve a rival steamer.
This annoyed the captain very much. And it was trying to me,
with nothing to distract me from the constant sickening roll of
the vessel under the heavy swell of the sea. And, on the 26th, it
being Good Friday, very little work was done. Yet, all those
same vessels would have worked all day of a Sunday!
On the 27th, Captain Thomas kindly interested himself to ob-
tain for me passage ashore on the Gaiser, himself taking me on
board that vessel, that I might have the adventure of crossing
the dangerous Lagos bar. and see something of Lagos town ;
giving me also letters of introduction to merchants ashore, sev-
eral of whom thereby showed me much hospitality. Made a call
on Rev. and Mrs. David, of the American Southern Baptist Mis-
sion ; and met a negro clergyman. Rev. Mr. Cansby. Called also
at the English Wesleyan Mission ; and. at Mr. Campbell's. I
was entertained at the home of an English merchant, Mr. and
Mrs. Hood.
From whose home, on Sunday, the 28th, I went to the Epis-
copal church. And, from there, was entertained at dinner, at the
home of a courtly American gentleman, Mr. Arthur H. Porter.
And, in the afternoon, I preached in Rev. Mr. David's church.
On the Monday, when I was given passage on the English Gov-
ernment harbor-steamer, Nellie, Captain Waite, to return to the
Benin, the bar was so quiet, that I was sure I could have crossed
it myself in safety in our mission-boat. I wrote special letters
of thanks to Messrs. Porter and Hood.
On Tuesday, March 30, the two discharge steamers. Gaiser
and Furtades, anchored near us, loading the Benin with palm-
kernels. The sea was smooth, and the boats worked rapidly; so
that by 1 1 p. m. the vessel started again on her journey. This
was a great relief to Captain Thomas and his passengers, after
the seven davs' delav at Lagos. On Wednesday. March 31.
passed Little Popo, Whydah, and some other places. I marked
the low line of coast, fringed with palm-trees. Stopped at
Ouita. near Jella Coffee, for mails and passengers. But, our
rival. Coriseo, which had delayed us at Lagos, was lying at Quita,
and had again supplanted our captain, by taking the passengers
A BUNCH OF PALM-NUTS
Facing page 338
ON A FURLOUGH 339
who had been awaiting him. In the evening, on deck, with my
guitar, I sang some ballads for the passengers.
On April 1, the Corisco was seen at anchor behind us at Ad-
dah. She pursued, overtook, and passed us, and anchored at
Accra, in advance of us. While we were lying there, came in a
steamer from the north, carrying the flag of Captain Davis, the
commodore of the fleet of the British and African Steam Navi-
gation Co. Captain Davis, a typical seaman, though of rough
exterior, was the soul of honor and integrity. Invalid ladies
going from England to the Canaries, were often put under his
care, in preference to any other captain.
My sister had been brought from Liverpool to Corisco in 1868,
under his special care: and, he ever afterward regarded her with
a paternal interest. With the engineer and Purser Denny, sister
and I went, in one of the steamer's boats, to call on Captain
Davis. He received her with a warm welcome ; and, I handed to
him a letter which Mrs. Bushnell had entrusted with me in ref-
erence to the removal of Dr. Bushnell's remains from Sierra
Leone. [Which he subsequently accomplished."]
On April 2. we were out of sight of land all day, in the Gulf
of Guinea. The water was blue; the first blue sea met with
that far on the voyage. About 7 a. m. of Sunday the 4th, an-
chored at Cape Palmas, to land a crowd of Kru-men passengers.
I looked ashore with deep interest, remembering my Sunday
ashore in August, 1861, at Hoffman Station of the American
Episcopal Mission, when I had gone ashore for the day from
the Ocean Eagle. Stayed on deck at night, to watch a storm
that was following us. The flashes of lightning grew more and
more vivid, the line of black cloud extending wider its wings ; and
finally came the crashes of thunder and gusts of wind. But, the
rain did not over-take us. But, on Monday, the 5th, the storm
had turned and was in our faces. I had the vessel's carpenter
prepare for me a board, onto which with tacks, I fastened the
name of Dr. Bushnell, with which to mark his grave, if I should
find it without mark. On Tuesday, the 6th, anchored at Sulima,
the disputed boundary between Liberia and Sierra Leone. Ill
fortune still pursued our captain ; the Volta had been before us.
and had taken what produce the Trading-house ashore had ;
there was little left for us.
By Wednesday. April 7, Freetown, the capital of Sierra Leone,
was in sight. The colony-law made pilotage compulsory. The
neero pilot was received, but with ill grace ; for the harbor is not
difficult of entrance, and the captain thought him and his services
340 MY OGOWE
an unnecessary expense. I went ashore with sister to the store
of Captain M. YV. Tobey, acting in place of American consul, J.
A. Lewis. Captain Tobey gave me a messenger to guide me to
the sexton of the cemetery. This old sexton was polite; he sum-
moned the gravedigger to assist in identifying the spot of Dr.
Bushnell's grave. He showed me a recent mound of earth,
which he asserted was the grave of a missionary buried some five
months previously. (I had narrated to him the circumstances.)
I did not doubt that it was Dr. Bushnell's grave. (If there was
error, it lay with those two men.) And, I marked it with the
l)oard I had prepared, for the aid of Captain Davis, in his later
coming. Neither Consul Lewis, nor the clergyman. Rev. Mr.
Lamb, who had buried Dr. Bushnell. had taken enough interest
to mark the spot. On the way back to Captain Tobey, I called
at the late residence of Mr. Lamb. At Captain Tobey's there
was a Mr. Buxton, who had formerly been a missionary among
the Mendi people, but who with his wife was in charge of the
Anna Welsh Memorial Female Seminary in Freetown. He in-
vited us to visit the seminary.
Xext day, April 8. went ashore with sister, and leaving our
bundles at Captain Tobey's, found, on one of the streets, a per-
ambulator-chair for hire, near Mr. Lamb's house. Sister had
become very tired, and was glad of the chair. I sent her on to
Mr. Buxton's, while I went on errands to the post-office and else-
where. And. was at the wharf, by the appointed hour, 11.30
a. M. to await sister's coming. On our return to the Benin, the
Lualaba came in, from the north: and several gentlemen, of her
passengers, came to call on Captain Thomas. Among them was
a Captain Monroe whom T remembered as second mate, of the
sailing vessel Moultan, that in 1863, had carried Mrs. Mary
C. Nassau, in company with Rev. \V. H. Clark, from Gaboon to
Liverpool. There was added another passenger, an English-
man, as companion in my cabin, a Mr. Deane, a trader at Sher-
bro. Friday, April 9th. the steamer out at sea: wind cold; sea
rough'.
On Saturday the tenth, saw several steamers: one, the
Ambriz from the north, passed so near that we could read
her name. Sister and T calculated on the possibilities as to
whether our fellow missionaries. Rev. and Mrs. De Heer were on
board, returning from their furlough, or whether we might meet
them at Madeira, or at Liverpool. At night. T saw the North
Star! The first sight of it in six years! Tt seemed like Hear-
ing home.
ON A FURLOUGH 341
Sunday the nth. In cold winds. I had to put on my thick-
est clothing. Monday the 12th; entered the land-locked harbor
of the town of Dakar, near Goree Island, at Cape Verde, in or-
der to get coals. The opposing winds of the previous two days
had so prevented progress, that the captain was sure our supply
obtained at Freetown, would not last us to Teneriffe. Went
ashore with Dr. Bennett and five other passengers ; walked about
the town ; and lunched at one of the restaurants. I realized that
I was approaching a northern latitude ; for, with the palm-trees,
I saw also pine trees growing. On our return to the steamer, the
purser was not in a good humor, because we had gone off in
the morning without him. Frenchmen from Cape Verde took
passage on our steamer. Tuesday the 13th, on our way to
Teneriffe, the sea was so rough, and the head-winds so strong,
and progress so slow, that fear was entertained that our coals
would not last us even to Teneriffe. Almost all the passengers,
and even the captain were sick. I was suffering daily with the
piles, and almost every day, more or less, with the ever-pres-
ent seasickness. Most tobacco smokers, in other ways gentle-
men, seem to me to have their perceptions stunted by the weed,
and become inconsiderate of the feelings of others. The smoke
always aggravated my nausea. On the African steamers, pas-
sengers, following the lawlessness of Africa, dared to be more
regardless of rules than on trans-atlantic steamers. There were
clearly printed notices, forbidding smoking in the saloon.
Smokers had liberty of not only the smoking-room, but also the
entire deck, and even of their own cabins.
On Sunday, the 18th, I was suffering very much, and came to
the saloon for refuge. There, I found Mr. Foster and other
passengers smoking. I spoke to him of it. He seemed to take
my protest properly, and promised to cease the offense.
There was a splendid very distant view of the snow-clad peak
crowned with a rosy hue from the setting sun, as the island was
sighted in the evening. It is one of the great memories in my
life. Monday, the 19th, as we entered the harbor, we were put
in quarantine, because we had come from Dakar (which had a
bad reputation for yellow fever). But, though we were not al-
lowed to go ashore, no hindrance was placed on the vessel's coal-
ing or purchasing. I bought, from a boat alongside, a little white
Teneriffe dog [which, in the United States, I gave to my niece,
Lida Gosman].
By daylight of Wednesday, the 21st, we were at anchor in
the Bav of Funchal, Madeira Island. There was some hesi-
342 MY OGOWF
tation on the part of the authorities; but, they yielded, and
we were permitted communication. Immediately, the deck was
crowded by men and hoys and women from boats alongside,
with articles for sale ; ornamental baskets, inlaid boxes, lace, ar-
tificial Mowers, etc., etc., also, barbers and hair-dressers. The
French passengers from Dakar, left, being dissatisfied with the
poor attendance on board.
Months before, I had decided with myself, that, even if there
was no reason of impaired health for my furlough to the United
States, I would have gone, for the sole reason, that, after ten
years of widowerhood, 1 felt the duty of re-marriage. 1 even
had gone over in my mind, the names of several ladies whom I
had known, and. I had tried to guess where my best hope for suc-
cess and happiness might lie. I reduced their number to three.
And I bought a basketful of handsome artificial flowers; saying
to myself that they should go to the hand which T should find
most gracious to my plea.
I w r ent ashore with sister. Hearing from Mr. Reid, the hotel
proprietor, that Mrs. Burton of Freetown, was in the house, we
called on her. And, with her, we went to the Miles Hotel, to
see Mr. and Mrs. White, of the Scotch Calabar Mission.
On our way back to the beach, to return to the steamer in time
for its leaving, we met a Miss Thompson, who, as stewardess on
the Sudan, had been very helpful to sister on one of her voyages.
After leaving Madeira, the discomfort and roughness of the sea
increased. The steamer, its officers fearing to force its ma-
chinery, could go only half-speed. Daily, we met vessels going
southward under full sail ; and some steamers, going northward,
passed us. to our chagrin. The offense of smoking in the saloon
increased in frequency. One day, about the 24th or 26th, I saw
Messrs. Deane and Foster with the ship's doctor, openly break-
ing the rule. Unable to endure it, I went to the captain, and
complained. He promptly came down, and rebuked the three.
After this, Messrs. Deane and Foster ceased to speak to me.
But, in various mean ways, for which I could not call them to
account, they and Dr. Bennett tried to insult me and even my
sister.
About the 29th and 30th, my nausea and headache were
extreme. I took various medicines, bromide of potassium,
strychnine, pyretic-saline, brandy. But, no relief. Finally, qui-
nine relieved the headache. The weather was very cold; the
thermometer down to $7 ; very trying, after my living for six
years at 85 ! One day, there was hail on deck. A leak sprung
ON A FURLOUGH 343
in the stern, by the vessel's pitching violently day after day; so
that water crept into the saloon, and a fire was kindled in the
stove there, to dry the floor. The sea was particularly rough off
of Cape Finisterre. So short was the coal supply that there
was doubt whether we could reach Havre; and, a question
whether we might need to put in, at Plymouth. All these doubts
made me anxiously think of change in my own plans of route to
the United States.
But, on Saturday, May 1, the Ushant light-house was plainly
in sight, and the sea became comfortably smooth. And, on Sun-
day, a pilot came on board. I felt an exhilaration in watching
the French coast toward Havre, and in feeling that I was again
approaching civilization. There was a large crowd of people on
their Sunday promenade of the pier, as the Benin drew into the
dock. Purser Denny sighted his wife and two other ladies
watching for him (having come for that purpose from Liver-
pool). Mrs. Denny came on board for supper.
Captain Thomas was at once handed a telegram from London,
ordering him to go to Liverpool to take charge of a new vessel
in the South African trade. He departed in the evening, with
our good wishes for his promotion. But, we were left uncer-
tain how we were to reach Liverpool. In the evening, every-
body went ashore except Third Officer Comby, Mr. Schwartz,
and my sister. I went, to try to find a Protestant church; but,
fearing to lose my way, I did not go far, and returned.
There was great confusion next day; the warehouse people,
ready for discharging were on hand, but, the first officer did not
appear for their direction; and, many of the crew were drunk.
Mr. and Airs. Denny had invited us to " breakfast." At 9.30
a. m. the cargo-master summoned for me a cab, and we went to
the Hotel de l'Europe on the Rue Paris. At the hotel with Airs.
Denny were two other ladies, Airs. Kent and Mrs. Batty, wives
of officers of the steamship company. Airs. Denny played for
me on the piano. I had not heard a piano, for years. Her third
selection was from the (then) new opera, "Pinafore"; Little
Buttercup's bum-boat song, and Captain Corcoran's song to the
moon! Airs. Denny took us, with other ladies, on a long beau-
tiful drive through the streets and parks and flower-gardens, and
back to the Benin.
Very late that night, Dr. Bennett and Air. Foster returned
drunk, from the shore. On the 4th, I took sister in a cab again
to the hotel, and with the other ladies, she did some shopping.
After our return to the hotel, we bade good-by to Airs. Denny
344 MY OGOWE
for her kindness ; and sister and I went to a lunch-room, and then
walked to the Benin, having been notified that the steamer would
leave at 5.30 p. m. Dr. Bennett and Mr. Foster again came on
board drunk, especially the doctor, who hastily began to pack up
his belongings ; and, swearing and with drunken shoutings, he
deserted the vessel.
The ladies, Mrs. Batty and Mrs. Kent, joined the vessel, as
passengers. The first officer, Mr. Houghton, skilfully avoided
some dangers in emerging from the dock; and, we started down
the Channel for Liverpool. At evening dinner, Foster was still
so intoxicated as to reveal it at the table. Wednesday, May 5,
almost the last day of the voyage, was the best ; sea smooth, wind
fair, sun genial. Several of the passengers remarked that " our
Jonah," Dr. Bennett, had done well in leaving us. My own per-
sistent nausea seemed to have exhausted itself. Feeling very
comfortable, I was able to be of some service to Mesdames Batty
and Kent, who, notwithstanding the smooth sea, were afflicted
with the usual " channel " sickness. Sighted the two bright elec-
tric lights of the lighthouse at Lizard Point. But, before that,
had seen the houses themselves (exactly when the sun was
setting) precisely in the line of the sun's disk, so that they looked
as if they were really in the sun, like " the man in the moon."
It was said by the seamen to be a very rare sight.
In the evening, I was reading Jules Verne's, " The Blockade
Runners." On May 6, the engines were put at their full speed,
in hopes of gaining the in-going tide to the Mersey of next day.
Busy gathering together my loose packages. On Friday, the 7th,
there were the final packings, and tire necessary tippings. When
the tender came alongside to land us, and the health officials dis-
covered that there was no doctor aboard, they were very angry,
and threatened the vessel with quarantine ; but, they passed us,
on explanation.
On the dock, awaiting us, was Mr. Fred. Davis fa son of the
captain, and who, since then, has succeeded him in captaincy],
lie took sister, as his mother's guest, to their home. T went to
the Board's agent, Mr. Christie, who kindly and efficiently looked
after my baggage, and sent me to a comfortable lodging-house.
At his office, I found many letters awaiting.
The next three days, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday, were
busy days witli baggage, purchasing, visiting, church-going, and
deciding on the steamer for the United States. The man in
whose care I had placed dog " 'Fenny " on the Benin, had left the
vessel, taking the dog with him. 1 followed him to a sailors'
ON A FURLOUGH 345
home, and thence to his own home, and recovered the dog.
But, the transatlantic steamer refused to allow dogs on board.
Finally, $5 was paid, and the puppy was to be kept hidden fore-
ward in the butcher's hands.
FROM LIVERPOOL TO NEW YORK.
On the afternoon of May 12, with our baggage in order, and
with friends to say good-by, Mr. Christie and his clerk Mr. Rob-
ertson, and sister with Mrs. Davis and her daughter, Mrs.
Thompson, we went on board the White Star Celtic. Other
friends kindly came to see us, as the steamer cast off, and started
down the Mersey. On the 12th, we stopped at Queenstown.
Made a few acquaintances on the steamer, a Mr. Dickinson of
Philadelphia, in my room; a Mrs. Kendall with two children in
sister's room ; an old lady, Mrs. Hobson ; and a Mr. Stetson from
Brazil.
On Friday, the 14th, a babe of one of the Swedish emigrants
died, and was buried. The ship's doctor, Isdell, invited me to be
present, but, I was not asked to take any part. The purser read
the burial service. The poor mother could not understand any
English.
On Sunday, the 16th, my sister had another of her nervous
attacks, and was not able to be present at the short religious serv-
ice of the Church of England read by the purser and doctor. I
was not asked to take any part. In the afternoon, sister feeling
better, with two gentlemen, she and I sang hymns at the piano.
But, this so exhausted her, that she was not able to go to her
stateroom. I asked the purser permission for her to remain for
the night in the ladies' saloon. He refused. But. on application
to the doctor, the latter allowed it, as a medical necessity. On
the Monday, she was still weak and nervous. I succeeded in
getting her on deck, where much sympathy was offered her by
the fellow-passengers. I sat in the cold wind, protecting her
with her wraps. On Tuesday, the 18th, there were icebergs. In
the evening there was music in the saloon. I was asked to sing
" Juanita," to piano accompaniment of a Miss Janion. Before
the large company, I was seized with stage-fright, and sang out
of tune. Nevertheless, I sang it through.
Dr. Isdell told me that there were on board, over 100 children,
more than he had ever seen before on ship; and, of them, more
than half were infants under eighteen months. On Friday. May
21, at Q a. m., the Celtic docked; and we were welcomed by my
sister Letitia and her husband Rev. A. Gosman, D.D., and my
346 MY OGOWE
son William. After the usual business with the customs house,
and Mission house, we all went on to Lawrenceville, N. J., to the
church parsonage (which was to be my home while on furlough)
where also was my sister Elizabeth, guardian of my eldest son.
To my Aunt HamiU's, at my uncles' high school. And, in the
evening, a quiet moonlight visit to the graves of my parents.
SEEKING FOR A WIFE.
Then, on Saturday, the 22d, to Philadelphia, to see my son
Charles, at his guardians, my excellent friends, Mr. and Mrs.
Wm. Patten. On Sunday, the 23d, to church, where the Latta
family attended. And, in afternoon, back to Mrs. Patten's, and
to her old Spring Garden church Sabbath school.
I had my credentials of commissioner from Corisco Presby-
tery to the General Assembly that already had been in session
several days at Madison, Ind. I hasted on Monday, the 24th,
and reached Madison at 4 a. m. of the 26th. And, had an un-
comfortable time ; for, until Assembly should open for the day, I
could not present my certificate, or claim hospitality. And, when
I had been received by the committee, and was handed over to
the entertainment committee, the lady, at whose home I had
been billeted, said that, as I had come so late, it would not pay
her to receive me! At the " Park House," there was no room
for me. I sat disconsolate; and lunched there. Rev. John N.
Freeman, of Peekskill, N. Y., happening to see me, and learning
of my straits, asked a friend of his, a fellow commissioner, Rev.
M. Henry Calkins [now, the Rev. Dr. Calkins, of Mifflenberg,
Pa.] to share his room with me. He was quite willing; and
requested permission of his host, General Herndon (of the Fed-
eral troops who had captured Jefferson Davis, in our Civil War),
who kindly consented. And, I rested then during the afternoon,
preparing an address, as I was told that had been announced in
the Assembly, for the Foreign Mission program. In the
evening, T spoke from the platform, with Format! of India,
Mateer of China, Bassett of Persia, and Blyden of Liberia.
During the day, the man Schorsch, who had returned from
.Africa to the United States, was seen acting in an insane way,
in the audience and speaking threateningly of me. A plain-
clothes policeman had been directed to watch him. But, in the
evening, he insinuated himself on to the platform, but did not
attempt to speak.
I will not delay this story of my Ogowe, with accounts of visits
and incidents in the United States, however agreeable most of
ON A FURLOUGH 347
them were to me. There were many pleasant greetings at Madi-
son, but, they did not wipe out the painful impression of the first
day. I learned never again to go as a member of a great con-
vention in its later hours; one is unable to keep up with the
flood.
I will simply mention the names of places, persons, my host or
hostess, and times of visits to churches, relatives, friends, Sab-
bath schools, societies, receptions, anniversaries, etc. All these
journeys and visits were on invitation ; and all my addresses, ser-
mons and talks were on mission topics. To them all I carried
my daily pain and physical distress, no one knowing that I was
suffering. And, at all these entertainments, I held constantly the
hope of meeting some lady who would become my wife. I had
thought of two; and. I said I would go first to them.
At the gateway of the mansion, I met the mother, out for a
Woman's Foreign Missionary Society meeting. On inquiring
of her where was her daughter, she replied that she had gone
with her husband to California. I had not known that she was
married !
With the other lady, I took a delightful stroll. She was
beautiful and gracious; I do not suppose that she was aware of
my sentiments. We returned to lunch at her mother's. My
constant talk was of Africa. Perhaps I dwelt too much on its
dark side. I have never thought that the mother intended her
words as a bar to me when she exclaimed : " I don't see how
any man who loves a woman would take her to such a country! "
If I had been braver, the words should not have deterred me.
I was at sea. Everywhere thinking of a wife. But, how
could one know, on acquaintance of only a few days, the tastes
and fitnesses necessary for a life companionship? In that most
important event of life, clergymen are in a very trying situation.
Any other young man may pay attentions to a lady for months.
And, if, finally, he withdraws them, there is no censure. But,
if a clergyman, known to be seeking a wife, shall make three
special visits, and then not declare himself, Mrs. Grundy has
much to say. Everywhere, the knowledge of the special object
of my coming to the United States was known. Busy relatives
and ministers and other friends were anxious to assist me. They
mentioned names of active church workers, and invited me to
meetings where those ladies would be present, and to whom I
was to be introduced.
It was all too bold, for my sentiments. I resented their plans.
I quietly decided on an unreasonable plan : I would make no
348 MY OGOWE
advances ; I would wait for Providence, without any human plan-
ning, to lead me to some one whose face, voice, manner, and life
should at once impress me. Then, I would seek to know her
more intimately. I may have been unreasonable. I was ex-
pecting to reap without using plans or means, other than constant
expectancy for the Voice to speak.
From Madison, went to Milton, to visit relatives of Rev. Wm.
Walker of Africa. Thence, to Burlington, Iowa, to my brother,
W. W. Nassau, M.D., and his wife and daughter; and pastor of
the Presbyterian church, Rev. Mr. McClintock. Thence, on
June 7, to Chicago; to Fort Wayne; and to Detroit. Thence, on
June II, to Pittsburg, to Rev. Dr. Kellogg, formerly of India.
Met Miss Davis, going to Japan. Also, Rev. Dr. Vedder. On
the 1 6th, back to Philadelphia, to Mrs. Patten's. To French-
town, N. J., to my friend, Mr. J. H. Reading, who wished to
return to Africa. To Trenton, to my cousin, Mr. H. H. Hamill.
And, to Lawrenceville.
On Sunday evening, the 20th, preached for Dr. Gosman. At
my father's former Female Seminary, then under charge of my
cousin, Rev. R. II. Davis, Ph.D. And, at the high school of
my uncles. Rev. Drs. H. and S. M. Hamill. On June 23, at
Princeton University commencement. At the Lawrenceville
Seminary and High School commencements. June 25, placed
my son, William, in Princeton University. In Trenton, Sunday,
the 27th, Second Presbyterian Church, Rev. Air. Kennedy; and
Sabbath school of First church, Rev. Dr. Hall ; and, in evening,
at church of Rev. Walter A. Brooks, D.D.
To New York, for consultation at the Mission House; and on
to Peekskill, to my sister Hannah, and her husband, Edward
Wells. Esq.
Desirous as I was for marriage, there were very few with
whom I was willing to consult. Mrs. Wells was one. She sug-
gested the names of several ladies; but, I was unable to bring
myself to fall in with her " plans.'' On July 1, returned to New
York. In interest of science, had a long consultation at the
Central Park American Museum, with Dr. A. S. Bickmore.
Bought a communion set for the First Ogowe Church. At the
Bible House, consulting with Secretary Oilman about printing
my revision of the Benga New Testament. To Summit, N. J.,
to visit Mr. and Mrs. Dean, parents of Mrs. Bacheler of Africa.
At the Presbyterian Church, Rev. Mr. Mcllvaine. To Camden,
N. J., Rev. L. C. Baker, a university classmate ; remaining with
him over Sunday, and with Judge and Mrs. Woodhull.
ON A FURLOUGH 349
To Tacony, Pa., where were Mrs. Patten and Charles; and
Mr. R. J. Wright; and Rev. Mr. Hotchkin, of Bustleton.
To Trenton; and found my African boxes arrived from the
customs house. To Lawrenceville. To Tacony; to Philadel-
phia. On the 1 6th, at Old Pine Street Church, Rev. Dr. Allen.
To Frenchtown, N. J. : Mr. Reading. To Woodbury, N. J.,
on Sunday, the 18th, church of Rev. E. Dillon. To Bingham-
ton, N. Y., and on to Warsaw, the home of my brother, Rev. J.
E. Nassau, D.D., where also my sister Elizabeth and son Wil-
liam were visiting. On Sunday, the 25th, addressed my broth-
er's and the Congregational churches. To Niagara, and return.
To Perry, on Silver Lake, for Sunday, Aug. 1, Rev. C. Dibble.
To Warsaw, on Sunday, August 8, in my brother's pulpit, told
a story of an African girl, which, a year later I enlarged into a
mission novelette, " Mawedo." Met the Rev. Dr. Z. Sheffield,
of China. On Saturday, the 21st, to Batavia, to visit my sister
Emma, and her husband, Rev. Wm, Swan, of the Presbyterian
church.
On Saturday, September 4th, to Leroy, Rev. Mr. Parsons.
And, on the 6th, returned to Batavia. There, I was promised
a little boat which would suit for short journeys better than the
Nelly-Howard. It was to be named Swan. And returned to
Warsaw.
To Rochester: Rev. Mr. Riggs. Made a call on the parents
of Mrs. Smith of Kangvve, Mr. and Mrs. Lush. On Sunday,
the 12th, in churches of Rev. Drs. Riggs and Campbell. In
church of the latter, gifts were made for a boat for Mrs. Smith,
to be called Christine. Tuesday, the 14th, to Wolcott, guest of
B. Wilson, M.D. At the Presbytery of Lyons, with its Woman's
Foreign Missionary Society. Returned to Batavia. Monday,
the 20th, returned to New York ; and to Trenton, at a Wickliffe
celebration ; and to Lawrenceville.
On 22nd, with Dr. Gosman to Princeton; and back in Law-
renceville for a festival on the 23d. At the high school on the
24th. On Sunday, the 26th, to Pennington: Rev. D. R. Foster.
Back to Lawrenceville; and to Philadelphia. On 28th, to at-
tend the council of the Presbyterian Alliance.
On Thursday, the 30th, to Honeybrook, Chester County, Pa. ;
Rev. \Y. Totheroh. Back to Philadelphia, and to Tacony, and
Philadelphia again. On Sunday, Oct. 3, in the South Church,
Rev. Dr. R. M. Patterson, a theological seminary classmate; and
Rev. J. S. Malone. Monday. October 4, to New York, at Mis-
sion House and Bible Society. On the 5th, to Elmira; and to
350 MY OGOWE
Penn Yan on the 6th, to meeting - of Synod of New York ; guest
of Mrs. E. W. Mills. Returned to Philadelphia; and in after-
noon of the 7th, went to Salem, N. J. I went there on invitation
of Mrs. Ware, president of the Woman's Foreign Missionary
Society ; guest of Mr. Thomas Craven ; Rev. Dr. Bannard. There
T met Miss Mary Brunette Foster, a teacher at Barnegat, N. J.
T believed T had found the lady for whom I had been searching.
Returned to Philadelphia. On Saturday, the Qth, went to
Troy, N. Y. : Rev. Teunis Hamlin. On Tuesday, the 12th, to
Glenn's Falls, meeting of synod. On the 14th, to Albany, guest
of Mrs. James H. Pratt : church of Rev. Dr. Dowling. On Sat-
urday, the 1 6th. with Mr. Pratt, rode to Nassau, to visit the
Broughton family, relatives of Mrs. Bushnell of Africa. At
Mrs. Pratt's again ; she was one of the few in whom I confided.
She urged me to visit two sisters in a certain town. But, I was
thinking of Miss Foster. (One of those ladies subsequently
went alone to a foreign field.) To Peekskill on the iqth. And,
then to New York, to arrange about the boat Cliristinc. And,
thence to Camden. N. J., and to Bridgeton, for meeting of my
synod of New Jersey. There I met Rev. E. J. Pierce, formerly
of Africa; and Elder Julius Foster, brother of Miss Foster.
And my friend and university classmate, Rev. Dr. F. Chandler
(of whom I made a confidant). Arranged with Rev. Allen H.
Brown, for an appointment to preach at Barnegat. Returned to
Philadelphia on 22d. On 23d. to Peekskill ; and was busy cor-
recting proofs of the Benga Gospel of John. On the 29th, back
to Trenton and Lawrenceville. On November 2, voted for
President ; and returned to Philadelphia.
Tn all those six months of wandering. I had carried with me
the daily physical pain. And, to its source, had been added an
anal fissure, whose distress was at times excruciating. On Wed-
nesday. November 4th, T went to the office of my friend. Thomas
G. Morton, M.D., who examined the ulcer, and arranged for an
operation, which, he said would not require a knife, and which
he believed would not prevent my traveling. The next day. at
a dentist's. T was given nitrous oxide gas. which only partly made
me unconscious ; and Dr. Morton performed his operation. T
rode in a cab. in great pain, to Mrs. Patten's. The doctor's diag-
nosis and choice of operation was doubtless correct. Bur, in my
low state of health, my blood did not respond to his expectation
of " healing by the first intention." For some ten days. T was
confined to the house, and walked with difficulty. As Mr. and
Mrs. Patten were to be absent on a long journey, I removed, on
ON A FURLOUGH 351
November 18, to the home on Girard Avenue of Rev. J. S. Ma-
lone, (whose wife was a cousin of Mrs. Mary C. Nassau).
Though not entirely recovered from the wound of the operation,
T went on November 26, to visit my uncle Rev. Dr. H. Hamill,
at Newark, Del. : Rev. Mr. Porter, pastor of the church. On
Sunday, the 28th, at White Clay Creek Church: Rev. W. D.
Mackey, a theological seminary classmate; and back to
Newark.
But, these activities aggravated the local irritation ; and, when
I left Newark on Thursday, December 2, for Philadelphia, I went
at once to Dr. Morton. He said that a more radical operation
would be necessary. We both were disappointed. And, his
professional pride was aroused. He very decidedly asserted that
" this time " there would be no doubt about success. At once,
I had to give up engagements in Pennsylvania, at Huntingdon,
Warriorsmark, and Pittsburg. On Friday, December 3, Dr.
Morton, accompanied by Drs. Hunt and Wetherill, came to Mr.
Malone's. I was chloroformed. The doctor dissected away the
ulcerated surfaces of the wound he had made four weeks before,
and ligated several hemorrhoidal tumors. For a week, I was con-
fined to bed, suffering much pain ; but, was attended most kindly
by Mr. Malone. By the nth, I was able to sit up ; and gradually
grew stronger. On the 18th, a newspaper reporter called; and
I gave him an interview about gorillas, etc.
Went to church on the 19th, and visited Dr. Morton on the
20th. His operation was a perfect success. On the 23d, he
invited me to dinner, to meet, Drs. Leidy, Fricke, Hunt, Allen,
and others, and Editor Wells of the Bulletin. On the 24th,
went, with son Charles for Christmas, to Lawrenceville. And,
on the 27th, with both my sons, went to Peekskill, N. Y.
On Wednesday, the 29th, a letter from Rev. Allen H. Brown,
gave me the dates for my services at Barnegat. December 30,
was a bitterly cold clay, to take my boys to Philadelphia and Mr.
Malone. And, on Friday, the 31st, I returned to New York, to
take a train on the N. J. Central R. R. On Saturday, January 1,
1 88 1, to Forked River. It was a bitterly cold ride in a baggage-
car. On the morning of the 2d. I preached at Forked River.
And, in the afternoon, was driven in a sleigh to Barnegat, to the
home of Mrs. Mary C. Brown. I held my afternoon service in
the Presbyterian Church for only ten people. It was without
an ruling elder, and consisted of eleven women, whose prayer
meeting was led by Miss Foster; and Rev. A. H. Brown came
once a month to encourage the weak organization. Miss Foster
352 MY OGOWK
was absent, having' gone for the holidays to her brother's home
in the Lakewood Pines at Holmanville. (I was not aware,
at that time, that she was purposely lengthening her absence from
Rarnegat.) I attended faithfully to the prayer meeting and
monthly concert evenings, being encouraged by Mrs. Gulick.
And, made myself agreeable to the little boys and girls with sleds
on the ice and snow. Having time on my hands, began to write
the story, which later was published as " Mawedo." I was care-
ful not to mention Miss Foster's name. But, everybody else was
constantly praising her. her teaching, her music, and her good-
ness in the church. Saturday, January 8, went by railway to
Forked River, to Captain Holmes, for the morning service of
next day: at which was an audience of forty. While at dinner
on Sunday, a wagon came for me from Barnegat. At first, lo-
calise of the cold, the Barnegat people had hesitated to send for
me. So. the wagon was late. And, it was an open wagon ! But
fortunately, the temperature rose, and rain began to fall.
Reached Barnegat in time for Sabbath school, and a sermon after
school ; and followed it with a congregational meeting, with ref-
erence to calling a pastor.
Baffled in my effort to see Miss Foster. I returned on the TOth
to Philadelphia to Mr. Malone's. On the T2th, bought my first
spectacles. T had injured my eyes in proofreading the Benga
Cios]>els. and Fan we vocabulary, by flickering gaslight, the while
T was in a poor state of health. On the 13th. began to learn to
play on a cornet. On the 17th. by arrangement with Dr. Mor-
ton, addressed the " Pennsylvania Society for Prevention of
Cruelty to Children": the other speakers were Judge M. R.
Thayer, of Philadelphia. Rev. Samuel Ames of Boston (Uni-
tarian). Rev. Dr. Currie of Philadelphia (Episcopalian), and
Fditor Wells (of the Bulletin'). On January 19. went to St.
Georges. Del., to the funeral of a cousin. Mr. J. B. TTow. And
returned to Philadelphia. On Saturday, the 22d. to Woodbury.
X. J., guest of Mrs. Rogers, sister of Mrs. Reading. On Sun-
day, at church of Rev. E. Dillon. Returning to Philadelphia on
the 24th. I joined a class in French, under Madame Cuthbert : for
use in Africa. On February 1, again visited Woodbury, for the
day.
On Sunday, the 6th, in the evening, at church of Rev. F. L.
Robbins. D.D. On Tuesday, the 8th, to Trenton; my cousin,
H. H. llamill; and to Eawrenceville ; and returned on the 10th.
And. on the 1 rth. again to Woodbury, for the day. Evening
of Sunday, the 13th, at Columbia Avenue Church, Rev. W. IT.
ON A FURLOUGH ' 353
Hodge. On the 16th, to Newark, Del., to my uncle, Rev. H.
Hamill, D.D., for the day.
On Saturday, the 19th, to Woodbury, returning to Philadel-
phia on the 2 1 st. On Friday, the 25th, in another effort to see
Miss Foster, went to Barnegat, to the little hotel. I sent a note
to her school, asking permission to call on her. In the mean-
while, I sat in the cold hotel parlor, where was a child sick with
measles, and spent the afternoon writing on my " Mawedo."
And, was received by Miss Foster in the evening at her boarding-
house. Returned to Philadelphia on Saturday.
On Sunday, the 27th, at the Kensington Immanuel Reformed
Episcopal Church Sabbath School anniversary. Thursday,
March 3, went to Peekskill, to consult with my sister, Mrs. Wills.
I knew that she would give me sympathy and not jokes. She
had never seen either Miss Foster or another lady whom I named
to her. She advised me to seek the other lady. But, I could
not do it : and returned to Philadelphia.
On Thursday, the 10th, to Greencastle, Pa., to the anniversary
meeting of the Presbyterial Woman's Foreign Missionary So-
ciety. And, back to Philadelphia, on the 12th. Sunday even-
ing, February 13th, at anniversary meeting of Woman's Foreign
Missionary Society of Princeton Church, West Philadelphia,
Rev. Dr. Addison Henry. On the 14th, again to Woodbury.
On Wednesday, the 23d, went to Lawrenceville ; and, after even-
ing prayer meeting, walked with my cousin, Miss Maude Hamill,
and asked her advice ; for I did not know what to do, so hope-
less were my matrimonial prospects, after nine months' search.
On the 24th, to New York, on business at the Bible Plouse, and
returned to Philadelphia. And, next day, to Woodbury, for
the day.
At the request of Mrs. Allen, wife of Rev. Dr. Allen, on the
30th of March, went to her at the Colonnade Hotel, and at her
urgent request promised to write a sketch of our African mission,
and to outline a map, for the Philadelphia Woman's Foreign
Missionary Society. [That " sketch " is the basis of all subse-
quent histories that have appeared of the Mission].
And, went to Newark, Del. Returning to Philadelphia on
the 31st, I went to Barnegat. by way of Camden and Whitings.
Called at Miss Foster's ; but she was not well, and could not re-
ceive me. I called again the next day, April 1, and made
my plea ; and requested her to give me no answer until it could
be an assent. And, returned to Philadelphia. On April 2, to
Pittsburg, guest of Rev. Dr. Kellogg. On Sunday, at churches
354 MY OGOWE
of Rev. Drs. Scovel and Thompson. And. on Monday, the 4th,
attended to the special object for which I had gone to Pittsburg,
viz: Secretary Lowrie, of our Foreign Mission Board, had
asked me to give advice to four young men in the Allegheny
Theological Seminary, who were thinking of coming to Africa.
In the afternoon, they came to me, Messrs. Gault, Robinson, Pee-
ples, and Good. [ They subsequently, came to Africa, except Mr.
Peeples, who went to Siam."| In the evening, in Rev. Dr.
Thompson's church parlor, took part with a few prominent gen-
tlemen in a meeting to start a subscription of $10,000 of $39,000
needed for Riddle University, N. C. On Tuesday morning, at
a meeting of the theological students. And. then to Mr. Pee-
ples' room, for further consultation desired bv Messrs. Gault and
Robinson. On the 6th, left Pittsburg for Tyrone, and to my
sister, Matilda's, Mrs. J. R. Lowrie, Warriorsmark. Pa.
On the 7th, returned to Philadelphia, and to Xew York, to
the Bible House. On Friday, the 8th. after errands at the Mis-
sion House: down to Ramegat; and spent the evening with Miss
Foster. And, on the 9th, back to Philadelphia. On Sunday, the
10th. at church of Rev. Dr. Robbins, with four other clergymen,
assisted at the Communion, where my son Charles made his pro-
fession of faith. It was a glad day for me! On the 11th. re-
moved from Mr. Patten's to Mr. Malone's as the Pattens were
expecting to go on a European tour.
On the 23d. to Freehold, X. J.. Rev. F. Chandler. D.D., a uni-
versity classmate. Miss Foster had been visiting there, and was
leaving on the train just as I arrived. On Sunday, the 24th.
made two addresses. On Monday, at Mr. Richardson's Female
Seminary (of which Miss Foster was a graduate), addressed the
pupils. On the 26th. to Princeton Theological Seminary com-
mencement, and returned to Philadelphia. On the 27th. to Law-
renceville. And. on the 28th. to Stockton. X. J., to visit Mrs.
Hendricks, formerly of Africa. And. back to Philadelphia. On
Saturday, the 30th. to New York and Mission House: and
printer. And. to Jersey City, to my university classmate. S. R.
Forman, M.D.. a ruling elder in church of Rev. Dr. French:
whose church I addressed the next day. They had been the
movers in the donation of my Nelly -Howard boat. Returned to
Philadelphia and on the 3d of May. addressed a Y. M. C. A. on
"Liquor Traffic Hindrances to Foreign Missions."
On Wednesday. May 4. to Barnegat. As I was expected. Mr.
Gulick met me at the station, and invited me to his parlor where
Miss Foster was awaiting me. as more convenient than her board-
OX A FURLOUGH 355
ing-house. Saturday, the 7th, in Philadelphia, at the First Pres-
byterian Church; Woman's Foreign Missionary Society, chil-
dren's missionary meeting. On the 10th, with Rev. Mr. Malone's,
gave an address, " Voices of a West African Tropic Night." May
10. to Barnegat, for the evening. And, back to Lawrenceville.
On the 18th, to Buffalo, N. Y., for the 19th, at General Assem-
bly: guest of Mr. M. L. Crittenden.
On Wednesday, the 25th, Foreign Missionary evening, ad-
dressed the Assembly. With me on the program were Dr.
Nevins and Mr. Fitch, of China. Mr. Polhemus of Mexico, Hol-
combe of India, Green of Japan, and Bassett of Persia. And,
on the 26th, at the Sabbath school class of Miss Lucy Crittenden.
After the adjournment of Assembly, went to Batavia ; and, on
June 1. at Mr. Swan's monthly concert. On Saturday, June 4th.
to Bergen, Rev. D. D. McCall, and a lovely company of twenty
little girls, the missionary " Busy Bees." And in his church on
Sunday. And, returned to Batavia. On Tuesday, the 7th. to
Wyoming, to installation of Rev. Mr. Congdon. On the 8th,
returned to Batavia, and visited the public school. To Warsaw
on June 1 1, feeling much depressed at no answer from Miss Fos-
ter. On Sunday, the 12th. at Perry, Rev. C. H. Dibble.
On Monday, the 13th, came back to Warsaw. On arrival at
my brother's house, he handed me a letter from Barnegat, from
Miss Foster. A letter of consent! On Wednesday, the 15th, to
Rochester, Rev. Dr. Riggs. And back to Warsaw. On the
T/th, returned to Philadelphia and to Lawrenceville. On Sun-
day, the 19th. with the pupils of the high school; and at the
church. On the 20th, to Princeton, guest of my cousin, Mrs.
Mary Wood. On the 21st, the various exercises of the univer-
sity commencement. At night, with ten other members of the
university class of 1854. held a supper, and remained until 5.30
a. m. of the next dav in class reminiscences. Back to Lawrence-
ville.
On Friday, the 24th. to Xew York, at Mission House. On
Saturday, the 25th. to Jamesburg. X. J., guest of my theological
seminary classmate. Rev. B. S. Everett, D.D., and at his church
on the 26th. And he drove me to Hightstown for the evening,
in church of Rev. J. B. Davis. D.D. On Monday, the 27th. to
Lakewood, where (by appointment) Miss Foster, coming from
Barnegat. met me : and we rode the four miles out through the
Lakewood Pines, to her brother's house, " Cosy X'ook," at Hol-
manville. On the 29th, to Lawrenceville. the commencement ex-
356 MY OGOWE
ercises of the Female Seminary, and 30th, at the high school.
Friday, July 1, to Philadelphia, to Mr. Malone's.
Saturday, July 2, with my two sons, to Warriorsmark, Pa.
On the 3d, with the Birmingham and Warriorsmark congrega-
tions. Rev. Mr. Francis. And, on Sunday, the 10th, again at
Birmingham ; and at Warriorsmark, in the Methodist church of
Rev. Mr. Geyer. Saturday, the 16th, to Penna. Furnace, guest
of Rev. J. C. Kelly; in his church on the 17th, a. m., and in
evening, at Penna. Furnace. On the 18th, returning to War-
riorsmark, found a letter awaiting me from Miss Foster, wish-
ing me to come and consult about our plans for the summer.
Leaving that evening, and traveling all night, was at Philadel-
phia, next day. And, by various changes of train and wagon,
was at Mr. Foster's by noon of that day.
On the 20th, at Holmanville prayer meeting. On the 21st,
back to Philadelphia and Warriorsmark by the 22d. On the
27th, with my two sons, to visit my uncle Rev. Robert Hamill,
D.D., of Oak Hall, Pa. And. on Sunday, the 31st, at his La-
mont church and country schoolhouse. On Monday, August 1,
to Lamont; and, at Mr. Wm. Thompson's, to a large W Oman's
Foreign Missionary Society of forty ladies. News came of the
death of my uncle. Rev. Dr. H. Hamill, at Xewark, Del. Re-
turned to Warriorsmark on the 2d. On the 3d. to Tyrone, at
prayer meeting of Rev. Dr. Moore. And, at night, on to Phila-
delphia and Xewark, for the funeral of Dr. Hamill on the 4th.
And, back to Philadelphia to Mr. Malone's.
On the 5th, to Lakewood, Holmanville, and Miss Foster, at
the church outdoor festival. On Sunday, the 8th, to Lake-
wood church. Rev. Dr. Dashiell ; and back to Holmanville Sab-
bath school.
On leaving Warriorsmark, I had placed some apples in the
pocket of my overcoat. And, at my arrival, for the night, at
" Willow Grange," the home of Rev. Isaac Todd, I hung the
coat in the hall. Next morning, the pocket was empty. The
usually reserved Miss Foster revealed a humorous side of her
nature, in a great deal of laughter with her cousin, Miss Har-
riet Todd, about the missing apples, for which I wrote her an
acrostic on her name:
Many a time I've mourned all sadly
Adam's fate for Eva's sin,
Regretted for him such a failure,
Yearning for what might have been.
ON A FURLOUGH 357
But, the hand that plucked that old fruit,
Rosy on forbidden bough,
Unto following ages stretching,
Nerves new hands to venture now.
Even gossip, late, authentic,
Tells of maid, who, 'neath a stair,
Through coat-pockets wildly searching,
Emptied them of fruit hid there.
Fair dear culprit ! whose name's twisted
Occult in this rhyme of mine.
Sinful Eden's fate seems lightened,
Transformed, by a love like thine.
Eden's gate should outward bar me,
Rather than divide me from thee.
On the 8th, rode with Miss Foster to Lakewood, to Dr. Dash-
iell ; and thence with him, we went to Asbury Park, to a meet-
ing at Educational Hall. On the 9th, with Miss Foster, at the
ladies' meeting. And, at the children's meeting. On the 12th,
left Asbury Park, and with Miss Foster, returned to her broth-
er's home. On the 13th, back to Philadelphia to Mr. Malone's.
And, in his pulpit on the 14th. On the 15th, at the office of
the American line of steamers, with arrangements to sail for
Liverpool in October. On the 16th, to Lawrenceville. On the
2 1st in pulpit of Rev. Dr. Gosman, on Psalm, 42, 3. In after-
noon, my uncle, Rev. S. M. Hamill, D.D., drove me to the
New Jersey Lunatic Asylum, where I addressed the inmates.
The matron, Mrs. Hill, told me that my text, " At the Name of
Jesus Every Knee, etc.," was the same as the last one my father
had spoken from at the home, several years before. And back
to Lawrenceville.
Saturday, the 27th, Rev. Dr. Gosman went to Albany, N. Y.,
and left me in charge of his pulpit. On the 28th, in the morn-
ing at the church ; and in the afternoon, at the little Clarksville
station, with an audience of sixteen persons. On Tuesday, the
30th, my two sons returned to Philadelphia, and, I went to New
York, to consult with Secretary Lowrie : and with him to Or-
ange, N. J., his guest for the night. On Wednesday, the 31st,
in New York, buying furniture for Africa; and back to Phila-
delphia.
On Thursday, September 1, to St. Georges, Del., visiting my
cousins, Mrs. Garman and Mrs. Stewart. Saturday, Septem-
ber 3, busy making out lists of invitations for my marriage!
358 MY OGOW'E
Rode to Port Perm, and called on the families of former Phila-
delphia friends, Gallaher, Boyd, and Cleaver. On Sunday, Sep-
tember 4, at the St. Georges church, all day. During the fol-
lowing week, completed my " Mawedo." When I returned to
Philadelphia on Saturday, the 10th, I happened to meet my be-
loved brother, William, from Burlington, Towa, at Dr. Morton's
office. I never saw him again.
On Tuesday, September 13, by appointment, met Miss Foster
and her cousin. Miss Scott, of India, and escorted them on a
shopping tour. And, on Friday, the 16th. escorted Miss Foster
to Lakewood, arriving late at her brother's home at flolman-
ville. On the 17th, to New York, purchasing for my return to
Africa. And. back to Holmanville. with a heavy cold. On
Sunday, the 18th. at the Holmanville church and Sabbath school.
Rev. Isaac Todd, Miss Foster's uncle. On the 19th, to Tren-
ton, guest of my cousin, Mr. Hamill. And. the next day to
Lawrenceville. Where, on Sunday, the 25th, in company with
Rev. Drs. Worden and Hinsdale. I addressed the Sabbath school
anniversary. In the evening, at the parsonage, there was tender
hymn-singing, as it was my last Sunday there before my sail-
ing.
On Monday, the 26th. in Trenton, the stores were closed for
the funeral ceremonies of murdered President Garfield : and, T
had difficulty in getting from the jeweler my ring for Miss
Foster, which had been returned for change in size. And on
to Philadelphia. On the 28th. to Woodbury ; and. -by appoint-
ment with Miss Foster, met her on a passing train, and returned
to her the ring. By a later train. I followed her to her Woman's
Foreign Missionary Society meeting at Clayton. X. J. At night
in the church : and guest of Dr. Buckingham.
On the 29th, escorted Miss Foster to Philadelphia. As she
and her cousin. Miss Scott, preferred to do their shopping alone.
I left, and went to Newark. Del., for the day: and returned to
Mr. Malone's. The next morning. I was agreeably surprised to
find Miss Foster in the house. After she had bidden Miss Scott
good-by on the previous day. she had missed her train to Lake-
wood; and availing herself of the generous courtesies that Mrs.
Malone had shown her. she bad come there for refuge. And
Mrs. Malone joined her in her shopping.
On Saturday. Octol>er 1, to Bustleton, Trenton, and Princeton,
truest of mv cousin. Mrs. Mary Wood. On Sunday, in the
First Church at Princeton. On the 3d, to Lawrenceville, for
mv final packings. On the 5th, closed all by boxes, and went
ON A FURLOUGH 359
to New York. There heard of the death of Miss Susan Dews-
nap. When I left Kangwe, she was at Benita, but, had been
transferred to Kangwe. The first missionary death in the
Ogowe. In evening at church of Rev. Dr. Marling. On Octo-
ber 7, with good-bys at the Mission House, went to Freehold,
Rev. Dr. Chandler, and with Miss Foster dined with Mrs. Ex-
Governor Parker, president of the Woman's Foreign Mission-
ary Society, of which Miss Foster was secretary. And in the
afternoon, with her at a reception at Mr. Richardson's female
seminary, where was the presentation of a parlor organ, as a
marriage-gift, by Miss Foster's friends of the Monmouth Pres-
bytery Woman's Foreign Missionary Society. And, I returned
to Philadelphia.
On Sunday, the 9th, in the morning, to the Woman's For-
eign Missionary Society of church of Rev. Dr. Johnstone, Ken-
sington. And, in the evening, with Rev. Drs. Johnstone, and
R. M. Patterson, my farewell, at Mr. Malone's church. In the
audience were my sister, and Misses Jones and Walker, recently
arrived from Africa, the latter on furlough. That farewell ad-
dress rounded out a list of almost 200 addresses that I made in
the United States during my less than eighteen months fur-
lough in the United States.
On October 10, I left, for Lakewood. In its admiration for
Miss Foster, Lakewood had taken the marriage arrangements
out of the hands of the Foster family, and she was to be mar-
ried from the home of Rev. Dr. Dashiell. The ceremony was
held in the Presbyterian Church in the evening, at the hands
of Rev. Isaac Todd, assisted by Rev. Dr. Dashiell and Rev.
A. H. Brown.
I made a public acknowledgment of thanks, through the
Lakewood paper.
CHAPTER XX
A HONEYMOON, OCTOBER-DECEMBER, l88l
OX Tuesday, October n, I was forty-six years of age.
After signing of some documents before a notary pub-
lic, Mrs. Nassau and I, in company with Mrs. Ex-
Governor Parker went to Jersey City, where was a meeting of
her Xew Jersey Synodical Woman's Foreign Missionary So-
ciety. And, thence on to Philadelphia, guests of Rev. and Mrs.
J. S. Malone.
TRANS-ATLANTIC VOYAGE TO LIVERPOOL.
On Wednesday, October 12, with some final errands, and
much difficulty about baggage, Mrs. X^assau and I were at the
pier, of the American liner Ohio, where more than seventy
of our friends were awaiting us. Among our fellow passengers
for Africa were Rev. and Mrs. W. C. Gault, and Rev. W. H.
Robinson. Of the days on the steamer. I kept little distinct
memory. It was a stormy, seasick passage. One day was
clear: and. covered with coats and shawls. Mrs. Xassau and I
sat on deck studying French. The captain, Morrison, was a
Roman Catholic, and showed us little attention.
On the first Sunday, the 16th. the purser, Williams, pro-
posed having a religious service ; which, at his request ( as
Messrs. Gault and Robinson were not feeling well) I conducted.
But, during the rest of the way. I also was too nauseated to
either read or write. We passed days, shut in, sitting at the
top of the companion-way, to escape from the close saloon.
There was a succession of storms and gales. One day, three
sails were torn away, and two boats were slightly damaged.
For several hours, one day, we " lay to,*' and. part of the time,
we went southeast, out of our route, to escape the direction of
the waxes. On the second Sunday, the 23d, there was no op-
portunity given for a religious service. This was so unsatis-
factory to Mrs. Xassau, that, in the evening, she and I, with
the other three missionaries, and four other ladies, gathered
around the saloon piano, and sang to Mrs. Xassau's playing of
hymns.
360
A HONEYMOON 361
The next day, we reached Queenstown, and were told that we
had escaped the worst storm that the British coasts had known
for years. On Tuesday, the 25th, we landed at Liverpool.
IN LIVERPOOL.
The very efficient agent of our board, Mr. Christie, had
thoughtfully sent his clerk, Mr. Robertson, to await the steam-
er's arrival at the dock, to assist us with our baggage, and to
direct us to the boarding-house chosen for us. I had promised
Mrs. Nassau that she should see London. But, we were dis-
appointed when told that there would be no time, with our many
shoppings in Liverpool, as our African steamer, Corisco, was
to sail on the following Saturday. In the evening, I took our
entire party to a philharmonic concert. The music was very
fine, and the audience fashionable. In leaving Philadelphia, a
photograph was desired of Airs. Nassau in her wedding-dress ;
but, the dress had been left at Lakewood. I promised her
brother that, if he would send it by a fast New York line, it
would reach Liverpool before us, and I would have the photo-
graph taken there. The dress was awaiting us. But, we had
to go to Photographer Vandyke twice before he could find
weather clear enough in Liverpool's fog. Then, it was a suc-
cess. On Thursday, the 27th, my associates took Mrs. Nas-
sau and myself on a day's outing to Old Chester.
VOYAGE FROM LIVERPOOL TO LIBREVILLE.
On Saturday, the 29th, there were still incompleted errands ;
and, we hurried to the dock, for the tender, to the steamer Co-
risco. Among the passengers, there was the pleasure of having
seven other clergymen besides myself and my two associates.
From the British Wesleyan Methodist Missionary Society, Rev.
\Y. T. Pullen, for Gambia; Rev. G. Lowe, for Bathurst; Rev. H.
Williams, for Sierra Leone ; Rev. M. J. Elliott, for the Niger ;
and Rev. G. W. Baxter, for Lagos. From the L T . P. Church of
Scotland, Rev. Messrs. David Williams and David Marshall of
Edinburgh. These two gentlemen were going on a visit of in-
spection of their Calabar Mission.
On Sunday, October 30, at the morning service, I preached,
assisted by Messrs. Elliott and Marshall. Captain Hamilton
was a kind fatherly man. He gave Mrs. Nassau the seat of
honor. The voyage across the Bay of Biscay was stormy. On
Saturday, November 5, anchored in the Bay of Funchal, Madeira
362 MY OGOWE
Island. We all went ashore, and breakfasted at a hotel ; and
saw the sights of the streets of the town.
On Sunday, the 6th, at the morning service, Rev. Mr. Lowe
preached. Splendid watching of the Peak of Teneriffe. An-
chored in the afternoon: but, Mrs. Nassau and I did not go
ashore. On Monday, the 7th, reached Las Palmas, Grand Ca-
nary, and wished to go ashore; but, the captain said that his stay
would be too short. On Friday, the nth, entered the Gambia
River, anchoring after dark. The pleasant sounds of church-
bells ringing.
November 12, Saturday, we all went ashore, on invitation of
Mr. 1 Milieu. Mrs. Nassau was exceedingly interested in the
strange and varied sights of people, customs, animals, trees,
flowers, etc. ; especially the new experience of being carried ashore
from the boat, like a baby, in the arms of one of the native boat-
men. While we were at the " breakfast " of the Wesleyan Mis-
sion House, Mandingo ponies (for which I had inquired of Mr.
Pullen) came for sale. I bought one for $70, for Mrs. Nassau.
(That was part of a marriage-present of $100 from Mr. Wm.
Patten, which I had tried to divide with her. But, she had re-
fused to accept it before marriage.) While Mrs. Nassau and
the others returned to the steamer, I remained to buy fodder for
the horse, and to make arrangements for the animal's being sent
on lxiard. An English trader consented to do it, as a favor;
and, I expected it to be done that day.
November 13, was not like Sunday. The decks in confusion,
and goods being received from shore. In a lighter alongside
was lying my horse, dead. The sling, which the English trader
used around the animal's body, when the crane at the pier lifted
it. to deposit it in the lighter, was old and rotten. It tore; and,
the horse fell, breaking its neck. Nolxxly's fault! Not the
captain's: he was not responsible; for, it had not readied his
deck. Nor the trader's; for, he had been doing the job, only as
a favor. Mr. Pullen \s native church-member was on board, hold-
ing me to my promise, to pay him on the steamer. It was un-
pleasant Sunday work "paying for a dead horse"; but, I re-
lieved Mrs. Nassau's anxiety by promptly paying it. Captain
Hamilton gave permission for services in the afternoon. Rev.
Mr. Williams preached, assisted by Messrs. Gault and Baxter.
November 15, Tuesday, in the harbor of Freetown, Sierra
Leone. American consul, Mr. J. A. Lewis, came off to us, and
took ashore Mrs. Nassau. Mrs. Gault, Mr. Robinson and my-
self; and we visited Mr. May's Wesleyan high school; ex-
A HONEYMOON 363
amined classes ; listened to boys' speeches and singing ; and made
speeches ourselves. Consul Lewis took Mrs. Nassau and my-
self to Mr. and Mrs. Burton's Annie Walsh Memorial Female
Seminary, where we were most courteously received as guests
for the night. Returned to the steamer next day.
On Thursday, the 17th, reached Cape Mesurado, of the city
of Monrovia, Liberia. I went ashore with Mr. Elliott: made
a number of visits on prominent individuals ; and we brought
back with us as a visitor, a Methodist missionary lady, Miss
Sharpe, to meet our missionary company.
Friday, the 18th, the steamer stopped for a little while at
Bassa on the Liberian coast. There was lying there the Senegal
from the south. It brought news of the death of Miss Suther-
land of Scotch U. P. Calabar Mission. And, I sent letters, with
some orders from Mrs. Nassau, to America. That evening, as
we sat on deck, we saw the North Star low down near the hori-
zon. Perhaps we would never see it again! (She did not.)
We thought of the distant friends, in another hemisphere, for
whom it never sank. By Saturday, the 19th, we were near
Grand Cess ; and, while there, the steamer slowed, fired, and
whistled ; and, a crowd of Kru-men came off, to be hired. But,
not enough of them. So, we anchored off Cape Palmas; and
another crowd came. Mrs. Nassau was exceedingly interested
in watching the excited paddling of canoes, the shouts of the half-
naked men, and the purser's enrolling of 40 of them, who were
to do all the ship's work of loading, discharging, and stoking
while on the hot west coast, the white crew being given but
little labor there. Off again, at 6 p. m., into the Gulf of Guinea.
Sunday, November 20, at morning service, Rev. Mr. Elliott
preached, assisted by Messrs. Robinson and Baxter. The
steamer stopped for a little while in afternoon, at Cape Lahu;
and, in the evening, at Half-Jack. I sang hymns during the
day with Mrs. Nassau. And, at night, until late in the night,
our entire ministerial company continued the singing. Monday,
the 2 1 st, for a little while, at both Grand Bassam and Assinee.
An awning was fixed over the quarter-deck where we could sit
in shawls and coats, even in cold rains. The homeward bound
Bengucla took letters for us.
On Tuesday, the 22(1. at Axim. and at Elmina. On Wed-
nesday. November 2^, in the morning at Cape Coast Castle, with
its old Fort Nassau, so named when possessed by the Dutch;
now a British possession. There, Mr. Elliott left, to go to his
station. In the evening 1 at Winnebah.
364 MY OGOWE
Thursday, the 24th. The partings from America were fre-
quently in Mrs. Nassau's memory. There is no Thanksgiving
Day on the ocean ; but, I wrote a little special letter for her that
pleased her. In the afternoon, with Mr. Robinson. Mrs. Nas-
sau and I went ashore at Accra (the location of Bishop Heber's
" Where Afric's Sunny Fountains Roll Down Their Golden
Sands " ) ; to the trading-house of the German Basel Mission, of
a Mr. Rottmann, who entertained us, until at night we went back
in a boat that was most skilfully handled through the surf.
On Friday, November 25, at Addah, near the mouth of the
Volta. And, in the afternoon, to Quitta, just beyond Jellah
Coffee, where the steamer bought large quantities of fowls, eggs,
and vegetables. And, at night, on toward Lagos. Saturday,
the 26th, at Lagos. Mr. Baxter went ashore to his mission.
Remembering my pleasant experiences at Lagos in 1880, I
wished to take Mrs. Nassau -ashore. But, our captain was sick,
and no arrangements could be made.
Sunday, the 27th : The farther that we went on our way
from civilization, the good manners of the steamer lessened.
Our christian company had diminished. But, though work of
loading and discharging was going on, we nevertheless held
morning service. Rev. Mr. Marshall preached, and I assisted.
A passenger. Dr. O'Reilly and the ship's doctor were drinking
to excess. In the afternoon, rapidly toward Bonny.
Monday, the 28th. passed the Nun mouth of the Niger; and
rapidly entered another mouth of the Delta, the Bonny, and an-
chored just at dark. On deck in the evening, with my guitar,
singing for Mrs. Nassau. It was the seventh weekly return of
our marriage day. Next day, a small steamer, the Mpongzuc,
was seen at anchor. It belonged to Gaboon. I went to it. and
' heard news of our mission: and. of Mrs. Bacheler's safe confine-
ment at Libreville. Returning to the Corisco, Captain Hamilton
gave his own gig, with a special crew of six, and two extra bear-
ers, and sent me and Mrs. Nassau with Messrs. Robinson and
Marshall ashore to the English Episcopal Mission of Rev. and
Mrs. Crowther, taking our ways through streets and paths that
gave Mrs. Nassau a wonderful revelation of native scenes. On
the 30th. started in afternoon, slowly toward the old Calabar
River.
Thursday, the 31st, up the Calabar River. On anchoring at
Duketown, Rev. Mr. Ross came promptly on board, and invited
us all to go ashore to his house. ( He was the missionary, whose
doings the Scotch delegation had come to investigate.) Pres-
A HONEYMOON 365
ently, a great sight was seen, King Eyo's boat (a christian king),
a six-oared gig, with his large 68-foot war canoe with drums,
flags, cannon, rattles, songs, etc., containing himself and Rev.
Mr. Edgerly, from Creektown. They were coming to welcome
the delegation. Mr. Edgerly. finding Mrs. Nassau, accorded
her the courtesy which she had been receiving on the entire jour-
ney, as a bride. He placed the delegation in the canoe with
the King, and took Mrs. Nassau and myself in the gig with him-
self. And, the two crafts sped their triumphant way over the
two miles to Creektown, and to the homes of Mr. and Mrs. Ed-
gerly, and Miss Edgerly, and Mr. and Mrs. Goldie, and Miss
Johnston. We were overwhelmed with christian and mission-
ary hospitality. A walk through the premises, with its trees and
flowers, and gardens was intensely gratifying to Mrs. Nassau.
The next day, leaving Mr. and Mrs. Edgerly's generous home,
we visited the old King, who, with marked politeness, provided
the boat for our return to the Corisco, first making a short call
at Air. Ross', before embarking again on the steamer.
Calabar is a most unhealthy river. Even foreign animals
suffered from its heat. An English trader there, a Mr. Gillis,
brought on board a handsome English dog, to be taken away
from the trying climate. We missed the companionship of
Messrs. Williams and Marshall. As we left the hot river, and
reached the sea, its cool breeze was fine.
Saturday, December 3, reached the Santa Isabel harbor of
the Spanish island of Fernando Po. The homeward bound
steanler, Mayumba, was lying there; and we wrote hasty notes
for America. Continuing the southward journey, out of sight
of land, in the Bight of Biafra, I noted the points of time when
we would be passing the stations in our mission regions of
Batanga and Benita. On Sunday, December 4th, we were en-
tering Corisco Bay towards Elobi Island, places whose waters
and shores were full of memories for me, as I pointed them out
to Mrs. Nassau. As our original christian company of eleven
was reduced to less than half, the remaining five held a private
Bible-reading study, instead of any attempt at preaching service.
Leaving Elobi in the afternoon, we rounded to seaward of Co-
risco Island, and down to the Gaboon mouth for the night.
On Monday, December 5, our two months' voyage ended in
the Libreville harbor. A new missionary, Rev. G. C. Camp-
bell, in the mission boat, accompanied by Dr. Bacheler, came off
to take us all ashore. Stopping at the lower Baraka house to
salute Mrs. Bacheler and baby Otis, we were finally rested, with
366 MY OGOWE
Mrs. Bushnell and Mrs. Ogden, in the upper house. (The lat-
ter was a fellow New Jersey-woman, from Mrs. Nassau's own
Monmouth Presbytery.) In the evening, was held a pleasant
prayer-meeting, of welcome.
AT ANNUAL MEETINGS.
On evening of the 6th, another prayer meeting was held at
Mr. Campbell's ; led by Rev. Win. Walker. In evening of Wed-
nesday, the 7th, the usual church prayer meeting was led by Rev.
W. H. Robinson. After which Dr. Bacheler and I had flute
duets. On Thursday, the 8th, nine of our mission company
went to the Plateau, to make the official call of the new arrivals
on the French commandant. (As a very rare thing on the
African coast, he had with him his wife and children from
France.) On the 10th. we had an amusing time at Mr. Camp-
bell's. He wished to weigh and measure the entire mission.
The entire twelve men and women weighed T500 pounds, of
which, mine were 144, and Mrs. Nassau's 130.
Sunday, the nth, Rev. W. C. Gault preached in the morning,
and I in the evening. At night, I recognized again the low wail-
ing cry of the night animal that had so distressed me when I
first went to Benita in October. 1865. I was never able to dis-
cover what it was. There was a native legend about it, for
which I called it " the transformed matricide."
All those days, we were waiting for Rev. Messrs. De ITecr
and Ibiya to arrive, for annual meetings of Mission and Presby-
tery. The latter arrived on the T2th. While waiting for them,
I had painted the Swan, the little four-oared boat, a wedding-
present to Mrs. Nassau from friends in Batavia and other parts
of Western New York. Mr. De Heer arrived next day ; and
meetings began. During the following several days' sessions,
there were some discussions that were not entirely harmonious.
These grated on Mrs. Nassau's feelings, and pained her. From
her high point of christian consecration, she had assumed that,
of all people, missionaries would be at peace. The disillusion
was a painful one. and it contributed, together with the reaction
of excitement of arrival, in the African climate, to a feverish
attack that sent her to bed. We were waiting for transporta-
tion to the Ogowe by some river-steamer.
THE RETURN TO THE OGOWE.
On Thursday, December 22, at noon, we were surprised by a
sudden word from Mr. Schultze. agent of the German house,
A HONEYMOON 367
that the Mpongwe would take us at 4 p. m. Although Mrs.
Nassau was still in bed, her case was not at all dangerous ; and,
I felt that she would be happier, away from the confusions of
Baraka, and in the Ogowe home where she was looking toward
her own work. Mrs. Campbell, Mrs. Gault, and Mrs. Ogden
efficiently assisted in packing her trunks. And, we were on
board at the appointed hour. Mrs. Bacheler with her babe
joined us, going to remove her household effects from Kangwe.
On Friday, the 23d, we entered the Ogowe ; traveled all day,
and reached Angala at night. Continuing next day, I pointed
out to Mrs. Nassau familiar places on the river. The weather
was very hot; and the insects at night exceedingly distressing.
The only sleeping-place for the two ladies and the babe was
a mattress placed after supper on the table in the little dining-
room. Reached the German house at Lembarene, in the after-
noon of the 25th. So unlike a home-land Christmas! Mr.
Schiff gave his boat and crew for Mrs. Bacheler and babe, and
Mrs. Nassau and myself, I towing the Szvcui for the mile row
around the island to Kangwe.
On the way, I transferred Mrs. Nassau to the Swan, and
rowed it myself. The church bell was rung as a christian wel-
come. And, we landed at Andende, guests of Mr. and Mrs. J.
H. Reading. The next day, Mr. Reading summoned a crowd
of natives with loud firing of guns for a social welcome ; and, at
night a native torch-light procession as a reception.
CHAPTER XXI
PROSPECTING AGAIN, JANUARY, 1882
THE changes at Kangwe, during my absence of nineteen
months, had been many. Mrs. Smith had returned to
the United States, in the first stages of consumption
(from which she never recovered). Miss Dewsnap died, and
was buried at Baraka. Dr. and Mrs. Bacheler had left, and
were living at Gaboon. Mr. and Mrs. Reading with their in-
fant daughter, had returned from America, and had taken the
doctor's place, but had chosen to locate at Andende, where they
had built a large comfortable bamboo house. The abandoned
buildings on the Hill looked dilapidated. But, Mrs. Nassau took
up her temporary home there. She assisted Mrs. Bacheler in
getting together her goods to be transported to Libreville. Mrs.
Bacheler's little babe, though not bom in the Ogowe, was the
first white boy in it: just as Mr. Reading's infant, though not
born in the Ogowe. was the first white girl in it. Mr. Robinson
was to come to Kangwe, to take charge of the church. As to
myself, I was only a guest; had been bidden by the mission, to
make a new station up-river, " not within fifty miles of Kangwe."
And, the English house, Mr. Sinclair's, had been removed from
Aguma to a site in the main stream near the French post Le-
mbarene.
On Sunday, January I, 1882, I conducted public service in
the church ( which had been completed during my absence in
the United States ), to an audience of some seventy people. Also
Sabbath school in the afternoon; and monthly concert in the
evening. Mrs. Nassau was longing to acquire the language, so
that she could teach. There seemed a gratifying interest in the
church: the monthly concert, collection was $3. From the
very first. I had told our converts that they must take the work
from our hands, and help themselves. On Monday, the 2d, I
went to King Ra-Noki, to ask him for men and a canoe, to
make a journey of inspection of the river, in order to select a
site for my new station, lie was exorbitant. Really. I think
that he did not wish trade-monopoly to be injured by allowing a
white man to build in the Interior. Returned : and at Atangina,
368
-
PROSPECTING AGAIN 369
Re-Nkombe was pleased to be honored with the commission
which the " king " had declined, especially as the former was
going anyhow on a trade-errand of his own. And, I was pleased
that Akendenge came voluntarily, and asked to accompany me
as cook and general assistant, as I was to go with my own canoe
and crew, under Re-Nkombe's escort and protection. During
all those days, Mrs. Bacheler and Mrs. Nassau were busy pack-
ing for the former, both of them at times sick from anxiety, and
waiting for the return of the Mpongwe from the Ngunye.
When it was known on the 5th, that that vessel was fast
aground in that river, Mrs. Bacheler accepted Mr. Sinclair's
offer of passage by the Pioneer, for Saturday, the 7th. And
that almost worn out vessel safely carried away her, her babe,
and household possessions on Sunday, the 8th. It was a relief
to her to have an end to her trying delays. And, then, on Mon-
day, January 9, Mrs. Nassau was to be left alone on the Hill ;
for, Re-Nkombe came with the crew he had engaged for me;
and, I was packing my boxes at Andende.
A custom of all tribes in Africa, of giving to a river a differ-
ent name in different portions of its course, has proved confus-
ing to many travelers. At Benita, the native name of whose
river was Eyo, its upper course was knowm as the Lolo. The
upper portion of the Gaboon (Makwenge) was called Nkami
(mis-pronounced by foreigners, " Komo "). The Ogowe. above
its junction with the Ngunye. was called by the Galwas, " Oka-
nda." because of the tribe of that name, dwelling on its upper
portion. I was told much about the Cataracts of the Ogowe on
its way to the Akanda people. The object of my journey was
not only to find a proper site for my new station (" not less than
fifty miles distant from Kangwe") but, to see "the lay of the
land " with reference to future extension into the Interior.
Also. I had not forgotten about the Okota tribe, their dialect
closely simulating the Benga, whom I had hoped to meet
on my original entrance into the Ogowe in 1874. I was told
that they had retired interior-ward. There was a possibility of
my being able to utilize my fluency in Benga with them.
JOURNFA' TO OKOTA AND OKANDA.
On Tuesday, January 10, with good-bys to Mrs. Nassau, went
to Andende, and with my crew of nine paddles, in a canoe bor-
rowed of Mr. Reading (laden with salt and other goods for
purchase of provisions on the way) I started up-river. Lunched
in the forest near the Ngunye mouth. While there, Re-Nkombe
37o MY OGOWE
and his two canoes over-took me. Spent the night at Mr.
Ermy's island house. And Re-Nkombe delayed me there, all
of next day.
On Thursday, the 12th, continued our way; and passed Be-
lambla without stopping. Heard that two of the adjacent vil-
lages, those of Apekwe and Walinja. were having " a war."
Stopped for the night at Ntambi's old town. There, found a
Mpongwe man going down-river; by whom I sent a note to Mrs.
Nassau. Friday, the 13th: As the journey of that day would
bring me to places I had never visited. I carefully made record
of their names. There was the large town, Xgwilaka. of a
Fanwe chief. Xjagudemba. on the right bank. At meal time,
stopped to eat at Isosa Point, among Bakele, who recognized my
name as " the friend of Kasa." Passed, on the right bank, the
mouth of a river. Abange ; and was told that its source was near
to that of the Rembwe. (At once, I thought of the possibility of
overland connection with Gaboon ; and, even of a line of stations
toward Angom and Baraka.) And. the mouth of a lagoon,
Xkogo, on the left bank, which. I was told, came from a
lake.
A half-hour later, passed, on the right bank, a high point,
somewhat like Kangwe Hill, called Erere-volo (big tree) with
Fanwe villages on it. Opposite to it. on the left bank, was a
little creek. Ije. Stopped for the night in the forest at a camp.
Emani-jembo (the ended song) within sound of Fanwe villages.
Saturday the 14th: passed a small creek on the right bank Ba-
nganye. A mile beyond was a second mouth, indicating a la-
goon. After dark, came to a point. Yeiia. on the left bank, with
an Akele town, friends of Kasa. They welcomed me as his
friend. The land on the opposite bank was high. Just beyond
Yeiia was the point Evenganomi. where, in the rainy season,
the water rushes with violence. Just beyond the point was a
small creek, on the left bank, coming from a lake or lagoon.
The river soon narrowed to about 600 yards, with high
ground on both sides. On the left bank, passed a creek; the
stretch of land near it was called Opokonjonga. The people of
Yeiia formerly lived there. A mile farther, was the beginning
of the Hills, which T had seen in the distance, looking up in
Belambla days. Those hills were constantly coming out in fine
outline, with steep red and yellow clay sides: and the river deep-
ening, and narrowing to 500 yards. Stopped to eat at the end
of the Opokonjonga district, in an Akele village Sanjala, of a
man Xjwivinjanda, where was living a Galwa trader. Olimbo.
PROSPECTING AGAIN 371
I admired the three fine hills of Ikoke on the right bank. I was
more than " fifty miles from Kangwe," and was giving special
scrutiny of all desirable-looking places.
Re-Nkombe delayed there the remainder of that day. And,
in accordance with my bargain with him, there was no traveling
the next day, Sunday, the 15th. On the Saturday night, I
awoke* with extreme pain in my right ear, and recognized that
an insect was struggling there. I hastily lit my candle, melted
a little butter, (having no oil) and poured it into my ear. The
struggles of the insect, for a few moments, were aggravated,
and then ceased. (Ever after that, I put cotton into my ears
at night, on journeys. A month later, a ball of wax, in which
was embalmed a large ant, fell out of my ear.) During the day,
I talked with the Bakele about God; planned for my work; and
sang hymns. Saw a dead slave thrown into the river. (Slaves
were not worthy of burial!)
On Monday, the 16th, left letters with Olimbo, to be sent to
Kangwe. Fine rows of hills. There was a little sand-bar, on
the left bank, at the mouth of a small creek, Okume. And, a
little cove and rivulet, Olende, on the left bank, which gave its
name to that district. A fine site, on. the opposite (right) bank,
where was trading a Nkami man, Animba, a sub to a Goree man,
Isamba. This man, Animba, with some Fahwe, seeing a white
man in the canoe, crossed to us; and objected to my proceeding.
Re-Nkombe assured them that I was not a trader. But, I felt,
from this, that I might have some difficulty in attempting to
settle much farther beyond them. Really, their action made me
look more closely for a possible site near them. Passed a very
large rock, in the river, near the right bank, which was called
Talaguga (sight of woe). (This was a contraction of Italaja-
iguga.) My people said that the name was given because of
the difficulty that the swift current beyond caused all travelers.
Then, on the right bank, was a small creek Lebo. In the mid-
dle of the morning, we came to an island, Njoli, on whose lower
end was a hut, remains of a camp occupied by DeBrazza. on
his expeditions. We ate at the island's upper end; and had
some very hard pulling beyond. No villages above Njoli, on
either side. The current became swifter, and river narrower.
Three miles beyond Njoli was Asange Island, where a white
man. Smith, had attempted to locate; but, the lower tribes com-
pelled him to leave. There was a little creek of the same name,
and the district also was called Asange. [It is now the site of
the "Njoli Post" of the French Government.] Fafiwe were
372 MY OGOWE
living on the right hank. There was a small island. Adeke, the
farthest point reached by Mr. Bruce Walker in his little steam
tug. Delta, in his attempt to open the Ogowe, on his second en-
trance into it. We passed the night on a sand-bar. a short dis-
tance above Adeke.
Tuesday, the 17th. we passed a series of islands, with rough
water, where progress was made, not by paddling but by poling.
Near them, were Bakele fishing-huts. After lunching at Eliva-
nyenge, opposite to a lagoon on the right bank, we passed more
islands. The Okota hills, seen the day before, were nearer.
Passed only one Fanwe village. Passed some Bakota villages
near small sandy islands, Ikakasana. There was an island, Oka-
mba. having on it young oil palm-trees, the first I had seen, in
all that region. Stopped, for the night, on the beach of the
Okota town, Tsangaladi. Its old head-man, Mbanga (Taker)
and a man, Afanga (Fear not) each presented me with a fowl.
There was a Hill, Idomba-njaku (elephant-height), probably 800
feet high, just in the rear of the villages. (T thought of Isanga-
ladi. as the station of the future. The Okota names were so
verv mucryrtike Benga!)
On Wednesday, the 18th. had not gone far. when we entered
the rapids, where progress was made, only by the crews towing
the canoes along the shore. On the left bank was a ridge like a
back-bone, running from a hill-top to the water-side, in which
was said to be a large cavern.
A hill, thrice as high as Kangwe. and of the same name, on
the right bank, opposite to Alembe Island, where were trading
two Mpongwes, one of them. Dnwe, husband of my friend
Xjivo. The river was cut up into many channels. Stopped to
eat on the left bank, opposite to the mouth of the Okono River.
A most beautiful picture of mountains, hills, river, lake-like en-
closures, islands, blue sky. fleecy clouds, fine northeast breeze,
varied colors of green. The rapids had become so pronounced,
that Re-Xkombe said that it was not safe for any to sit in the
canoes, while the crews waded and dragged them up. He or-
dered, " All the women, children, and useless persons! Get out.
and walk around the falls! " The two women, one child, and all
the crews, except one steersman in each canoe, got out. I sat
still. Tie looked at me inquiringly, and said, " Did you not hear
what I said?'* "Yes: but, am not T useful?" (I knew what
he had meant by " useless."' i. c.. those who were not to work at
dragging on the rope.) TTc. with great courtesy replied. "Yes!
So useful, that your life is too precious to be risked over these
PROSPECTING AGAIN 373
falls." (Miss Kingsley has described those falls, in a most
graphic manner.) The Inenga tribe are said to have come from
the Okono River.
There were a series of mountings of the cataracts, by the pas-
sengers landing, and walking around them. Some of the hill-
sides were bare of forest, showing the beginnings of elevated
prairie-lands. At one of the falls, my canoe filled, and some
goods were spoiled. Stopped for the night at the head of the
Alembe Cataracts, on a strip of sand in the Olangi channel. I
was wet, and with no bed on which to sleep.
Thursday, the 19th, none of us started in good spirits. And,
shortly after starting, came to falls so steep, that I was not will-
ing to risk the canoe and its goods ; and, I had it dragged flatly
overland around the falls. The Osenge Rapids were strong.
Then, we came to the open Ipatye prairie-hillside, on the right
, bank. All afternoon, we stopped at a village on Mbumba Island,
to dry the goods of the day before. While there, came a
Frenchman from the Interior, sick, on his way to the Coast. I
gave him medicine and tins of milk, and sent a letter by him to
Mrs. Nassau. Passed a miserable night in the rain.
On Friday, the 20th, started late. And, soon came to a very
bad place, Agasi-nganga, near the Mbumba Island. Passed an
island, Ngozyo (Parrot) opposite to the dangerous Ikobe rocks
in the channel. The Okota prairie hillsides increased in num-
ber and size. The crew became enthusiastic in saluting new
points as they opened to view. A series of rapids and small
islands called Elanga.
I was attracted by what I thought would be a fine building-
site, on the open prairie-side, in front of Elanga. The right
bank had formerly been occupied by Bakota, but they were
driven away by the Osheba clan of Faiiwe. Came to an Okota
village of a young man Elande, where a Galwa, Awuronjagu,
was trading. My canoe was too heavily laden, and I left some
of my provisions with him. There were two other villages near
by, all three called by the same name. The men and women of
the town were friendly; and, in the evening, I had prayer with
them.
Saturday, the 21st: I was delighted with the place; and, with
thought of a possible location there, ascended a hill. I thought
it the finest view I had had in Africa. I noted (a most impor-
tant matter for any station) where the spring of water was.
Passed a spot on the left bank, Isonge, where was a good-sized
creek, with fine fresh water. After going- on some distance, I
374 MY OGOWE
waited for Re-Nkombe, who had delayed to collect a trade-debt.
Finally, he sent me word, that he would wait at Isonge, over
Sunday, for his debt. So, late in the afternoon, I returned to
him, as Isonge was the last Okota village on the river: all be-
yond were Osheba and Apinji. At Isonge were huts finer than
I had expected to see. But, the people were not as polite as
those of Elanga.
On Sunday, the 22d, there was a great deal of trading going
on; but, I held a little meeting; and walked among the huts and
conversed. From the top of the hill, I had a fine view of Mt.
Otombo, a few miles eastward. Was told that, on its top was a
lake. Usually, there was a bank of clouds resting on it. By
Monday, the 23d, I determined to return to Kangwe; because,
(1) I was wearied with Re-Nkombe's delays; (2) The water
was falling so rapidly, that, if I went on to Okanda, immediate
return would become more difficult, and perhaps impossible ; and
I might be detained at Okanda for a month; (3) My stage of
water was unfortunate. I should have started earlier (Decem-
ber) before it fell so low; or, later (February) when it would
be beginning to rise; (4) My stock of goods ($150) was too
great for a canoe the size of mine. The canoe itself was right ;
but. one-third of the quantity of goods I had would have been
sufficient; (5) Hie real object of the journey (the seeking of a
site) was already accomplished by what I had seen at Njoli, and
in Okota: (6) To go on to Okanda would be only for the grati-
fication of curiosity and adventure: and, I would not do that
while Mrs. Nassau was so alone at Kangwe; from which place. I
calculated that I was distant at least 150 miles. Got rid of my
unnecessary weight of goods, for safer descent of the Rapids,
by loaning them to Re-Xkombe. Tie was glad to get them, for
his trade, and he was to repay me in building materials or food.
1 took a parting view of Mt. Otombo; and started down-river.
Stopped at Flande's village: and. went, with some of his people,
to examine a hill near by, for a possible station. Tt was a fine
site, between an excellent rivulet of water. Abeka, on the west,
and Xyare on the east. Stopped at Awuronjagu's to get my
farinya. Remaining in the canoe. I descended in safety the
rapids of Agasi-nganga. where the crew said. that, in the dry
season, there was a hollow in the river-bed, from which, if stones
were thrown into it. there would come a sound like beating of a
copper kettle, and the water would boil up. Stopped to eat at
the lower end of Mbumba Island. And. there, the crew crossed
verv care full v to the Fan we side (the right bank) to find a safe
PROSPECTING AGAIN 375
descent. Going down those rapids was like bumping down a
flight of stairs; but, it was successfully accomplished.
At the spot, at Alembe, where, on coming up, the canoe had
swamped, I took two of the men, and leaving the remainder of
the crew to find their dangerous descent by one of the many chan-
nels, I walked around the falls, as far as the trading-house of
Dowe and Iveke. They were absent; but, one of their people
opened a hut for me. I had a cold, and the walk had thrown
me into a profuse perspiration; and, I needed a safe bed. Fine
view of Kangwe Mountain.
On Wednesday, the 25th, on rising, was surprised to find
Dowe returned. I gave him part of my farinya supply. Came
on to Isangaladi. And stopped to eat at the sandy beach of Ika-
kasaiia. Met Laseni, in a half-dozen heavily-laden canoes, at
the head of Asange Island. He handed me a letter, of date,
January 14, from Mrs. Nassau. I came on my way rejoicing!
Laseni warned us not to stop at the Fanwe villages near Italaguga
Rock. Slept on Njoli Island. January 26; the crew, alarmed
by Laseni, were afraid ; and, I therefore could not stop at points
I wished to inspect. Stopped at a village of an old man, Ma-
myaga, where was trading the man Animba. The latter was not
afraid; he said that Laseni's reported assault by Fanwe on a
Frenchman was true; but, not of those Fanwe. Mamyaga's
people wished me to settle among them ; but, I did not like their
site. With Animba, I returned up-river, stopping at a number
of places. I liked particularly, one on the left bank, above Njoli.
[ Later it was occupied by the Roman Catholic mission.] And
another, two miles below Njoli, with a large rock in the river op-
posite the mouth of a little creek, a short distance below big
Italaguga Rock. [This, I finally selected, as my Talaguga.] I
felt sick from my cold ; and slept again on Njoli. During the in-
terval of my absence up the river, De Brazza's camp hut had been
plundered of its flag and part of its thatch, by Njagu-demba's
people. Friday, the 27th, continued my examination of sites.
Stopped at Nyare's village.
At Mamyaga's (where I made medicine for his sore toe) had
a long talk about sites. Held evening prayers. But, as the crew
professed to have some fear of remaining in the town (their
real reason was a desire to reach Olimbo's) I left, and spent the
night in the forest. Rain came, but, with my overcoat, I man-
aged to keep my breast dry.
Saturday, the 28th. Rose stiff and wet. Went on to Olimbo's
and engaged him to have thatch made ready for me, when I
376 MY OGOWE
should come to build a hut. From my supply of goods, paid him
(river custom) in advance. My goods, so unnecessarily great
for the journey, came, at once, of use. for buying building ma-
terial. Came on down, and ate on the sand-bank opposite to
Krere-volo. And. thence the crew, fearing both the Akele and
Fanwe sides of the river, kept to midstream (though, in passing
the (ioree Island, we were told that there was no reason for fear-
ing the Bakele) and stopped for the night at Mr. Ermy's, who
assured me that there was no real reason for my crew having
feared the Fanwe side. I would have done well to have stopped
and made friends with Xjagu-demba.
1 Tad a good rest, and held a meeting at Mr. Ermy's on Sun-
day, the 29th. On Monday, the 30th, down-river to Andende,
where Mrs. Xassau was awaiting at the landing, and Mrs. Read-
ing on the veranda, and bells were ringing, and boys were shout-
ing. Mr. Robinson had arrived from (ialxxjn, with my Ncllx-
Howard. And, I went to my former house on the Hill; where,
also, Mr. Robinson was located. That night, the canoe was
stolen. Then, for several days I rested, and arranged for Mrs.
Nassau.
JOURNEY TO NJOLI.
After I had explained to my associates at Kangwe, about the
several sites I had inspected in the vicinity of Njoli Island, and
how I had reduced my choice to three. Mr. Reading kindly of-
fered to go with me and help to select. With a crew of six. in a
boat, we started up-river on Friday, February 10th. and spent the
night at Mr. Ermy's. On the nth, stopped at Belambla, and
was very much pleased to see that the grounds were cared for
by two Bakele, Azune and Kange. Stopped for the night at
Mbomi. A meeting was held on Sunday, the 12th, and, after-
ward, plans were discussed whether we should attempt to run by
the large Fanwe town Xgwilaka, of Xjagu-demba (in sight, up-
river, on the other side) or, whether we should stop there, and
try to make friends.
On Monday, the 13th. stopped at Xgwilaka : and, with the as-
sistance of a friendly Mpongwe trader there, Njalele, Xjagu-
demba's demand that we should not pass his place, was so
changed, that he consented to go as passenger and guide with us,
and help us against any demands of other chiefs, until we should
reach our desired point. Xjoli. Slept on the sand-bar at Erere-
volo. Went on up-river, on the 14th, inspecting many places ;
and slept at Olimbo's.
PROSPECTING AGAIN 377
On Wednesday, the 15th, continued our inspection; and slept
on Njoli. Mr. Reading- was exceedingly displeased with me,
because I did not consent to the site he selected. Of the three,
which, by a process of exclusion, I had fixed on, he promptly
rejected one (the site on which, later, was built the Roman Cath-
olic station, near Asange) ; and I agreed with him. He wished
me to take Njoli Island. I would have done so, but for the rea-
son that I considered that De Brazza, a French Government of-
ficial, had pre-empted it. The remains of his hut still stood
there; and, only a short time before it was covered by a French
flag. The taking of it was, to me, impossible.
The only remaining desirable site was at " little-rock " Tala-
guga. But, my decision offended Mr. Reading profoundly. It
is true also, that he and I differed radically as to the object of
a station at that point. While we agreed that some station in
that vicinity was desirable, it being sixty-five miles from Kangwe
("not less than fifty miles") he thought that it should be a
large thoroughly equipped station, with schools, etc., and there-
fore it would need a wide open area, such as Njoli afforded. I
thought of the station as only a w T ay-house, on the road to some
larger one in the Interior at Isangaladi or Okota. (That was
the idea of the government, from their Post at Lembarene to
their interior Post at Lasteurville.) My definite reasons were:
( 1) Talaguga was at the head of comfortable boat navigation.
Beyond it, travel would be by canoes. (2) In my desire for
penetration into the Interior, I did not expect that the occupant
of Talaguga would have a school of any size, and therefore
needed no large space for buildings. His chief duty would be
to receive, at Talaguga's excellent landing, the boats from down-
river, and carefully transfer their cargoes to proper canoes, and
forward them to the real station beyond. I thought (and still
think) that my idea was a good one, if haste into the Interior
was the main object.
Apparently, my successors, the French Protestant mission, has
not thought that desirable. For, in addition to transferring Ta-
laguga to Njoli Island (adopting Mr. Reading's idea) they have
deemed the sixty-five miles between Kangwe and Talaguga too
great, and have made a new station half-way; not therefore ap-
proving of the old mission's order of " a minimum of fifty miles."
We rapidly descended the river, next day, the 16th. And, in
passing a Fanwe village below Ngwilaka, suddenly recognized
Mr. Reading's stolen canoe. Fie stopped, claimed it, and en-
378 MY OGOWE
tered it, taking two of my six men. I went on with the other
four to Belambla, for the night.
On Friday, the 17th, reached Kangwe, in good time to rest,
and attend church preparatory service, and session meeting; at
which, one of the school young men, Agonjo-amwenge was re-
ceived, Nguva being elder.
Session meetings were continued on Saturday, the 18th, and
Ndambe and Akambie were received.
Sunday, the 19th, was a beautiful day, and a pleasant com-
munion service.
Wednesday, the 22A. There were disputed station accounts,
in Mr. Reading's paying, as treasurer, bills created by Dr. Bach-
eler. With Mr. Reading and Mr. Robinson, I went to Mr. Scruff
of the German house, and to Mr. Sinclair of the English, to
prove that my accounts of 1879, and up to the time of my leav-
ing in 1880, were correct.
While ascending the rapids in February, I saw a beautiful blue
flower among the rocks. I thought of my wife. And, in March,
I penned her the following lines :
The stream flows swift; the currents swirl;
The river surges madly clown.
O'er rocks, where breaks, in turbid whirl.
Each angry wave its foamy crown.
Above those waves, so dark below,
In niche and ledge of rifted walls,
Alone, where nothing else can grow.
And scarce the hopeful sun-ray falls.
There blooms a flow'r, whose petals wide
Seem, with their cheerful hopeful blue,
To say to traveler at its side.
" You've sought me, and, I bloom for you ! "
And then, I think how, in this life.
When roughest darkest seems the day,
There grows for each, beyond the strife.
Some gentle hope to cheer the way.
E'en thus, for me, there lives a flow'r,
Hlue-eyed and helpful, fair to see.
And every day I bless the hour
I sought her. Dearest, bloom for me!
PROSPECTING AGAIN 379
I had been busy collecting goods, and hiring crew and work-
men, to begin my work on the Talaguga ground. After some
annoying bargainings, I secured a company. But, the unpleas-
ant Galwa habit was repeated of my former experiences with
them. They struck. Of course, I dropped them; and went
down-river to find new men.
JOURNEY TO ORANGA.
On Friday, March 3, with two loyal men of my own, and two
loaned me by Mr. Reading, I went down-river, stopping at sev-
eral places, and finally reaching Oranga, for the night.
Next day, with three obtained at. Oranga, I started back, ob-
taining two more on the way (one of them a deaf-mute). And
stopped for the night, and Sunday, at Ntyuwa-guma. On Mon-
day, the 6th, reached Kangwe, surprising my friends by my rapid
and successful trip.
JOURNEY TO TALAGUGA.
In the kongongo, with a crew of eight, and accompanied by a
goods canoe of eight Fanwe under command of a Galwa, Re-
Mondo, I started at noon of Tuesday, March 7, and moving
slowly, stopped at night on Walker's Island, opposite the Ngunye
mouth.
The whole day of the 8th, was one of anxiety ; my Fanwe were
afraid of almost every Akele village that we passed. Spent the
night at Belambla.
On the 9th, the Fanwe crew was a constant source of trouble ;
their fears, their slowness, their talkativeness, their frequent de-
sire to stop and eat, and their complaints of the food. Stopped
before dark at Nkog'o Creek. Sighted some elephants near the
bank, and made a hasty but unsuccessful hunt of them. A night
of alarms ; as I slept in the kongongo, and heard the bellowing
of hippopotami and barking of alligators in the water near us,
and trumpeting of the elephants in the forest.
On the TOth, Re-Mondo found a floating dead alligator; and,
when we stopped to eat at an Akele village, the crews had a great
feast over it. Met Re-Nkombe returning from his Interior trip,
and sent a note by him to Mrs. Nassau. Stopped for the night
at Olimbo's, where I found that he had ready for me the thatch
which I had engaged of him. Was grateful that, though that
was a rainy season, no rain had fallen any night on the way; and
I slept safely in the kongongo.
On Saturday, the nth, on the way. stopped to pay respects to
3 8o MY OGOWE
old Mamyaga. His toe was almost well, due to the medicine I
had given him. Passed Nyare's. And, was at Talaguga land-
ing by 10 a. m. My very first act, on stepping ashore, and be-
fore any goods were discharged, was to call the crews around
me, and, kneeling on the ground, I prayed for a blessing on the
new station. I had brought with me. from the United States,
gift of a Chestnut Hill, Pa., Sabbath school, a regular army can-
vas tent. It was put up at once, on the narrow level at the right
bank of the little mountain stream that there emptied itself into
the Ogowe. My goods were stored in it ; and my crew set to clear-
ing a near-by spot, on which should be erected a shelter hut for
themselves, with Olimbo's thatch. Fafiwe visitors came, watch-
ing us curiously; some brought for sale sweet-potatoes, pepper,
fruits, kuda nuts, and a wild rat. Rain fell heavily that night.
On Sunday, the 12th, Fan we were passing and repassing on
foot, along the path (that evidently was a public one) on the
top of the river-bank. Old Mamyaga stopped, on his way up-
river, going on a rubber-trade. I felt depressed and anxious as
to what would be the success of my effort at the new station.
Held a short service with my own people, no others being pres-
ent, using the Mpongwe language. Afterwards, some Fafiwe
came, and I communicated with them, through a little Fafiwe lad,
Xdongo, of Mr. Reading's household. The Fafiwe crew were
afraid of the Talaguga clan, and became anxious to depart.
But, with my high standard of Sabbath observance, I required
them to remain until Sunday was past.
On Monday, the 13th, before daylight, Re-Mondo and his
Fafiwe crew were far down-river. I held morning-prayers with
my eight people. (That custom, and also evening-prayers, I
maintained, during my whole life in Africa.) And, then I had
them complete their own shelter-shed. (Fortunately, I had
brought Olimbo's thatch with me on the Saturday.)
Nyare brought a woman, who, though she was a prisoner (her
feet in stocks) he allowed to come, so desirous was she to see
a white man. Began to clear the hillside, for the site of my
future house. Fafiwe stood looking on ; and they seemed
amused when I invited them to come and join in the work. Next
day, two Fafiwe came for work. They had enormous ideas of
the value of their labor. I sat down with Fafiwe visitors, and
at once began to gather a Fafiwe vocabulary. Numbers of
young women and girls came visiting.
On Wednesday, the 15th, the two Fafiwe workmen, who had
engaged for one "dollar" (four yards of calico print) came to
FAX WE WOMAN
Facing page 380
PROSPECTING AGAIN 381
demand that " dollar " for their one day's work ! After much
talking, one accepted " 20 cents " (a red woolen cap) : the other
stood for all or nothing; he got nothing; and both left. Ma-
myaga came, and we talked about the site. After much talking,
he assented that I should build there, and not at his place. Some
boundary points were mentioned, and two pointed out. I gave
him a hatchet, and promised him a gun and other things when
the deed should be signed. The two men of the morning re-
turned, and agreed to work six days for a " dollar." Began to
set up saplings for the walls of a temporary hut for myself near
the tent. On Thursday, the 16th, Nyare's head-wife, Nyamba,
came to see me, with a gift of sugar-cane and plantain. But, she
made the error of immediately asking for a return. In the cupid-
ity of the natives, it was difficult for them to trust that they
would be given something " next time." But, I always taught
them the severe lesson of " handing back " a gift for which a
return was requested at the time it was given. Nyamba learned
the lesson ; she and I became great friends ; I had great respect
for her. Leaving some of the men at work, I went to Olimbo's
for more thatch.
My location was a very convenient one for the hailing of pass-
ing canoes. They liked to stop at my splendid mountain brook
to take their lunch. On Saturday, the 18th. Joseph Xavier, the
former customs officer at Angala, going down-river, stopped at
my hail, and took letters for me.
While at morning sen-ice with my people on Sunday, the 19th.
several lads came from Nyare's village to sell potatoes. (Of
course, they knew nothing about Sunday.) They remained, and
I taught them the Lord's Prayer. In the afternoon, they came
again, and I read to them from an Infant Catechism. They re-
turned again with a woman, and I sang hymns to them.
The two Fafhve came on Monday, the 20th, to their work,
bringing a third, Nyene, at the rate of a " dollar " for six days.
Already, the old trouble of trespassing had to be met. I had twice
to go into the woods to stop men from cutting trees. Two men
came with most disgusting ulcers for treatment. My " water-
side " hut was being built.
In the afternoon of Wednesday, the 27th, went with two of
my men, to look over and mark the boundary of the premises I
proposed to claim. On the way, was seized with most distress-
ing symptoms of what I suppose was poisoning from a tin of
canned cranberries. I was so weakened that I was barely able to
get back to my tent and my cot.
38J MY OGOWE
On Thursday, the 23d, began to clear ground on a little
plateau on a ledge of the hill, about 200 feet above the river, for
the permanent bamboo dwelling I intended to build, the " upper "
house. During the morning of Friday, the 24th, came Ma-
myaga, with Animba and Ndongo, two coast-men. as interpreter
and witness. Xyare also came, and interjected himself. I was
surprised ; for, I had recognized Old Mamyaga as the authorita-
tive chief. We had our talk about the purchase of the premises.
I paid Mamyaga $9 (trade) ; and privately promised Nyare
(who was dissatisfied with what I gave him) something more
for another day. (It was unfortunate, for my future, that I
recognized him at all.) And, both men made "marks " to the
deed, giving me sole right to the ground, its trees, fruits and
animals. I especially explained to them against trespassing of
all kinds. The next day, I sent for Nyare, who came with a
retinue of people ; and I formally gave him a gun ; and he was
satisfied.
Tuesday, the 28th, a letter came from Mrs. Nassau! With
half of my men, I went with Nyare. over the outline of the bound-
ary of the premises, marking prominent trees, and carefully run-
ning the line wherever there were gardens of his women. By
Thursday, the 30th. the "water-side" hut was finished; and I
moved into it from the tent. In clearing the grounds, I fre-
quently came on scorpions of the large black variety, whose sting
is supposed to be fatal. For the first, slept in the finished hut.
About that time. I had dealings in buying thatch from a young
man. Agonjo. a Galwa trader, whose name in after years, as
" Paul Agonjo." became prominent in my service and in the
church.
On April t. a frightful report of native surgery : Two
Fail we went hunting together: they became separated, and. in
the density of the thicket, the one, catching sight of what he
thought was a wild animal, fired and the slugs entered the breast
of his friend. Native " doctors " considered it essential that all
bullets and slugs be removed at any cost. So, the doctor made a
vertical incision over the sternum, and a long lateral incision be-
low the ribs. Then, forcibly throwing aside the two points of
the chest, like an opened book, he exposed the cavity over the
heart and lungs, and searched for the slugs. Then word was
sent for me to come and sew up the incisions. I did not go;
it would have been useless.
A little boy came to me for his sore leg to be bandaged. And.
soon followed a father, his child having a sore foot. The clear-
^B
W*M
mi 1 1 %# 9 *)'
FAXWE MAX AND WIFE
l-a-_i-ig , 3,je 38;
PROSPECTING AGAIN 383
ing on the hillside I called " for the halfway house/' i.e., the
dwelling would be on the little plateau at the lower half of that
portion of the Talaguga Hill.
The days were very busy ones. But, the evenings were lonely.
The workmen would be at their own evening meal, and with
their own discussions around their fire. I sat often alone; plan-
ning; and longing: and finding in the beauty of the forest, on
moonlight nights, much that carried me away in thought to
other times and other places and loved ones, from whom I was
separated. Under such circumstances I wrote for Mrs. Nassau :
I am singing in the shadows.
They have lengthened into night.
Through the high, locked, forest leaf-arms,
From the moon, so round, so bright,
Fall the wind-chased rays that flicker,
Like my own life's vista-view.
So. I'm singing in the shadows,
While I'm thinking, Wife, of you.
I am singing in the shadows.
There's no life, however bright
With the love that God has given,
But it has its day and night.
Even lips that love can only
Bid to Higher Rock to flee,
So, I sing while in the shadows ;
For, I'm praying, Christ, to Thee.
We'll go singing in the shadows.
Thanks for dark, and thanks for light,
Till our path shall reach the city
Where no day e'er turns to night.
There the Light that blessed Lamb is
W 7 hose pure glory none can dim,
In the valley of the shadows
We can sing, dear Wife, of Him.
[My words were almost prophetic of the tragic shadow that
came to me a little over two years later in the very house I
was then preparing to build.] One of the trying conditions,
during the month at Talaguga was, that I heard or received so
little from Kangwe. Canoes were passing down-river every few
days. They stopped at my landing, even if I did not hail them.
I could send constantly by them letters to Mrs. Nassau, and or-
ders to Mr. Reading. But, I got few returns ; for, Kangwe was
384 MY OGOWK
no longer on the trade-line. The houses had been removed out
on the main stream. And, the gentlemen in charge of those
houses, did not appreciate my need, and failed to promptly in-
quire of passing canoes, by which to forward letters, etc., which
had been committed to their care. But, one day, everything
came to me in mass: On Wednesday, April 5, came Re-
Nkombe with boxes of food, tools, newspapers and letters, of
dates March 15 to 23. And, next day, came another canoe with
letters of March 25. And, soon another with letters of March
28. And shortly after, with letters of March 28, and a
load of boards, and provisions. I was so glad and thank-
ful ! But, the letters brought word that made it necessary
for me to return to Kangwe for a few days.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
On Friday, April 7, with six of my people, having notified
Nyare, so as to have him take some interest in guarding my hut,
I started. And, stopping for friendly salutations at many places,
staved for the night at Belambla.
Continuing on the 8th, I was in company of one of Re-
Xkombe's people, the man Ambangila, on his return from an In-
terior trade-journey, having with him two new slave-women. He
was received with gun-firing and great shouting at Atangina," the
while that I was being welcomed at Kangwe by Mrs. Nassau.
On the next day. Sunday, I preached to an attentive audience.
Two of the river steamers, Batanga and Mpongwe had arrived,
bringing our furniture.
On Monday, the 10th. I went to the German house, and
brought Mrs. Nassau's precious organ. It was a great task
carrying it up the Hill; and a glad reception it had from her;
its opening she specially celebrated in her letters to the United
States. Some of my employees were tired of service : and, I
had to spend two days down-river, engaging new men. It was a
very busy week at Kangwe.
JOURNEY UP TO TAEAGUGA.
On Saturday. April 15th, the usual Galwa unfaithfulness ap-
peared. My crew did not strike for higher wages: they simply
deserted, leaving me only three faithful ones. I put on the best
face, though I was feeling deeply distressed, and began to load
the canoe, just as if I was determined to go with only those
three. (Among other things, I took young mango trees, for
planting at Talaguga. ) Mr. Reading kindly deprived himself of
PROSPECTING AGAIN 385
two of his Kru-men, contract workmen of the splendid Liberia
tribe (who never thought of striking or rebelling), and ordered
four of his schoolboys to join the crew, simply to take me to
Talaguga. Spent the night at Mr. Ermy's comfortable home.
Where, the next day, Sunday, I conducted services.
On the way, Monday, the 17th, I stopped at Belambla. The
avocado trees I had planted were in full bloom. My trees
bloomed ; but, my teachings had not ! Slept at Mbomi, where
also was Owondo's canoe. The people were so noisy, that I
got little attention to my evening preaching. The Akele soil
was very hard !
On Tuesday, the 18th. there was a long, wet pull; and I would
have stopped at an ulako at 6 p. m. But, both crews very loyally
preferred, tired as they were, to pull on to the safe from rain
town of Yena, as late as 9 p. m.
And, on the 19th, by 1 p. m., both crews safely landed, and were
welcomed by the two young men whom I had left in charge. I
was grateful for the success of the journey. Nyare and his peo-
ple came to welcome us.
AT TALAGUGA.
Following a habit, which J maintained during all my African
life. I planted fruit-trees, orange, mango, avocado pear, bread-
fruit, etc. Vigorously I continued the building I had l>egun dur-
ing March. The two Kru-men, in their vigor, skill, steadiness
and obedience, were worth half-a-dozen Gal was. In the after-
noon of Saturday, the 22(\, came the French explorer. Mons.
Alliot. He stayed over-night, and gave me much information
about the interior Ogowe, and new expeditions. All this fired
my desire to push our stations forward into that Interior.
He left early the next morning. I held a morning service
with my people on Psalms 29, 9. Fanwe were busy passing all
flay on their businesses. They were so indifferent to anything
but the commercial value of my presence. Tt was difficult to
make them believe that I had not come to buy ivory. I was very
much depressed : and, in the evening went alone for prayer on
the hill-top. I wrote my feelings in the lines of " Teneo et
teneor."
1 sit beside Ogovve's stream.
The night is dark. The crescent moon
Gives but a phantom ray to gleam
On shadows here so densely strewn.
386 MY OGOWE
Beyond these shades, the farther bank
Uprises, a majestic hill,
That, forest-crowned, with verdure rank,
Stands somber, solemn, weirdly still-
Above, in azure fields of space,
The lonely southern sky outspreads.
There rests my eye. With strength and grace,
The starry Cross its radiance sheds.
That Cross meant toil, meant shame, meant death.
Tn following it, I follow those
Ah! heart, sink not with bated breath.
At thought of care, of pain, of foes !
Hail, Cross of Jesus! Thence I draw,
By faith, the strength that must be mine ;
And see. as once a Warrior saw.
The promise, " Conquer, in this sign ! "
O! joyful Cross! O! Mystery dear!
Up in my soul fresh hope has welled !
The toil grows light, clouds disappear.
Savior ! I hold Thee and am held !
Some lonely evenings, I sat by the water-side, and played on
my cornet. Its echoes among the hills sounded well. The
Akele head-man, Njwivinjanda, came to ask me to " trust " him
goods in trade ! He and others either did not understand or
would not believe my repeated explanations of the Gospel mes-
sage as my sole work. There was a leprous Faiiwe who often
came to my camp. I was not afraid of him ; for. I do not be-
lieve that leprosy is communicable otherwise than by inoculation.
So. I constantly shook hands with lepers whose disease had not
reached the stage of ulceration. But. this man had some ugly
ulcers, and annoyed me by watching me eating my dinner. So
desirous was T to have people come to me, that I never ordered
him away.
Tn the evening of the 25th, began my usual custom of a weekly
prayer-meeting, with only my own few people, or any visitors
who happened along, in the evenings after their day's work was
done.
On the 29th, myself and employees being housed. I began to
build a boat-shed on the little island that was made by my moun-
tain-stream dividing, a few hundred feet before it entered the
PROSPECTING AGAIN 387
Ogovve by its two mouths. That shed became a great conven-
ience to the traveling 1 public. They already liked the quiet
mouth of my little stream, and the safe companionship of my
people. But, that boat-shed became a refuge for them from
many a stormy night.
On Sunday, the 30th, I was awakened before 6 a. m., by
shouts of men and boys hunting with dogs, in the forest between
my place and Nyare's. I went to his village, with one of my
men. He was absent, professedly trying to stop the trespass. I
waited until he came; and then waited until the offenders came.
We had an angry discussion, in which Nyare spoke apparently
well. But, I remembered my experiences with Kasa under sim-
ilar circumstances. And, I looked with dread to a possible
repetition of Belambla difficulties. The trespassers had killed
four antelopes and other animals. I was offered a small piece
of one, as compensation ! I indignantly left. The remainder of
the day was quiet. My most reliable assistant, Akendenge, was
sick. In the evening, a Fafiwe canoe passed, its crew wailing
the news of some death.
On May 1, only women and children came from Nyare's; no
men, except one, who spoke well against the trespass by the
hunters. The other men were away, at a raid on a village across
the river ; from which they returned with a woman as captive. I
kept on at study of Fafiwe, whenever I could get some passer-by
to tell me anything. Another of my reliable Galwas was sick.
My topic for the weekly prayer meeting was, the seeking of sug-
gestions how to reach the apparently unimpressionable Fafiwe.
Wednesday, the 3d, was a clear bright day; but, I rose with
more of a depressed feeling than at any previous time. I felt
almost like deserting the place. Akendenge and Joktan were
still very sick ; my medicines did not help them ; they wished for
" native " medicine. Remembering that I had helped Mamyaga
with his sore toe, I sent a messenger to him with a gift, asking
for " medicines." In the afternoon, a woman came promptly,
and treated the two young men. I marked out the exact site of
the house on posts which I was to build for Mrs. Nassau. Being
short of help, I cooked my own meals that day ; and, did not feel
so low-spirited in the evening, as I had felt in the morning.
On Thursday, the 4th, in the morning, while I was trying to
study Fafiwe, came Nyare and Mamyaga ; and, I had a talk about
the trespass, on Sunday. The talk was not satisfactory. There
were many people hanging around ; and, about the time that Ma-
myaga was leaving, I missed a file, and believed that it was
388 MY OGOWE
stolen. It was the first stealing that I had suspected at Talaguga.
I had difficulty in preventing such things from hardening me
toward the tribe to whom I had come so cordially. My two sick
men were no better on Friday, the 5th.
My efforts to pick up Fan we were slow ; for, I had no regular
interpreter. As some Faiiwe men were passing, I could get
them to tell me the name of things, by pointing to the object,
and saying the Faiiwe words, " What, this? " But, when I tried
to get the plural forms, they could not understand what I wanted.
The only aid 1 had was a small Faiiwe vocabulary and phrases
collected by a former Gaboon missionary. Rev. H. M. Adams,
which I had printed while in the United States, and a child's
catechism. The Rev. Mr. Marling, at Libreville, was a Faiiwe
scholar; but, he had put nothing into writing which I could use.
On Saturday, the 6th, in the afternoon, Nyare came to speak
of a report he had heard that Mamyaga had advised me to
leave Talaguga. I told him that transgressions, such as his peo-
ple had made, could influence me in that way. Later. T went
on the weekly visitation to his village. Tie wanted to talk of
the " palaver," but. I refused to mix it up with my religious serv-
ice. He and his people came on Sunday, the 7th. to give me a
fowl, as a compensation for the previous Sunday's four antelopes.
They did not understand that T objected to the trespass, not to
the loss of the animals. And, T declined even to talk on the
subject in the presence of a so insultingly small reparation. They
wished to loose the fowl on my premises; but. I would not al-
low it.
On Monday, the 8th. hailing a passing canoe. I sent one of
my sick men. Akendenge, away. I was afraid that his case might
become serious. Nyare seemed to think that the " palaver " was
settled, and came to ask the favor of the use of my grindstone.
on which to sharpen his dagger! T allowed it. [A year later,
that dagger almost took my life.] A little girl, whose arms were
sore with the abrasion of her brass rings, was not afraid, and
played with me, mimicking my actions. The Fan we noticed how
many strangers' canoes stopped at my place: and I overheard
them remark. " Kal Xasa e no kuma " (Nassau's town has a
reputation). I was pleased that Nyare's children came to play
with me almost every day. Xgara, Mveli, Bakara, and others.
Wrote an article on " Faiiwe Cannibalism," to send to the Phila-
delphia Press. Always, T had a note to Mrs. Nassau, ready to
be taken by any passing canoe. My building plans went dis-
tressinsrlv slowlv; for, T had onlv two workmen.
PROSPECTING AGAIN 389
On Thursday, the nth, Ntula and Bilan, two of Nyare's peo-
ple, the chief two trespassers, came with a fowl as a fine for
their offense. As it was the first acknowledgment of wrong-do-
ing, I accepted it from Ntula ; and, he at once began to work on
wages. Bilan was still under my displeasure. A man from a
distance brought his wife who wished to see that strange being,
a white man. They wondered at the power of my " one-man "
cross-cut saw. They said that, " it ate logs too fast."
On Saturday, the 13th, some children from across the river
came to sell sweet potatoes. One little boy had only a few ; but,
I could not resist his eyes as he plead for one yard of calico as
pay. They were not worth it (at the river market rates). But,
I gave him the cloth. It would cover his nakedness; he did not
need it for warmth ; but, for civilization. My fowl, paid as a
fine, was missing. It was found at Nyare's, whither it had wan-
dered for company. The people begged me to kill and eat it, lest
they be suspected of stealing it. When I asked little Mveli, on
Sunday, the 14th, a catechism question, "What is a spirit? " he
gave the reply, " A spirit is something which lives always,"
and he added, " and never dies." Then, he voluntarily in-
quired, when I was speaking about kon (spirit), "Has God a
wife?"
"No." "Then, he lives alone?"
Some signs of the change from rainy to dry season. Two
more Fanwe came to work. They were unskilled ; but, I was
relieved of the duty of feeding them. The food question was a
most difficult one during all the years of my Talaguga life. My
other sick man, Joktan, was better.
I thought that I was a pretty good shot with a rifle ; but, when,
on the i/th, I fired at close range at the head of one of my chick-
ens, for dinner, I was amazed that the bird did not fall, but stood
erect, looking at me. I was more surprised when I found it
bleeding. The bullet had made a clean round hole through its
wattles, under its jaw, and all so suddenly that the bird had not
been startled. Of some Fanwe visitors from the Abange Creek,
I made inquiries about a route to Gaboon via that stream and
the Rembwe. They gave me names of places and distances,
which I hoped to use in the future, on a path which (though I
never had the opportunity to use it), I fully believe, would be a
useful communication between Libreville and the Ogowe. One
of them asked me for rum ! When I told him I did not have
it, he did not believe me, thinking that I was only unwilling to
give. So, he asked one of my Galwas, Akambie. But, just
390 MY OGOWE
then, another one told the first one, that, " When a missionary
said that a thing was not, that was the end of it."
On the 1 8th, Akanda people, employees as crew of a Goree
trader, pleased me by their fine appearance. When I told them
of my intention of permanent residence, and my hope of some
day reaching- their tribe, they said they would work for me if I
would come. So different from the Bakele and Fanwe ! At
night, when I was ready to prepare for bed, I observed my hut
invaded by an army of driver ants. From that hour, on to 2
a. M. of the 19th, I was kept moving from place to place, an hour
at a time, finding spots where it was safe for me to sit ; part of
the time on my carpenter's bench. When I finally went to sleep,
I did not dare to disrobe.
Sunday, the 22<\, was not a happy day. The fishing canoes
were busy. Mamyaga came, not for my service, but for medi-
cine (which he wasted by spilling it in his hunting-bag). Then,
he asked me for a gun, with which to re-capture a run-away
wife! And, I was disappointed that the canoes of the preceding
days had brought me no word from Kangwe.
Next day, Nyare's chief wife, Nyamba, who had been sick for
weeks with an abscess, came to present me with some plantains.
At dusk, I heard boat-songs down-river, such as were usually
sung as a warning of arrival. And, soon came Mr. Reading's
Blue-bird, in charge of good Mr. Robinson, with a crew of eight,
six of them Kru-men. and a supply of goods, and precious let-
ters. I was grateful for their help and comfort; and sat up
late, chatting with Mr. Robinson.
On Thursday, the 25th, leaving the six Kru-men with me.
Mr. Robinson went away with only his two Galwa crew. Going
down, with the river's four-knot current, would not be difficult.
T sent also as passenger, my other sick Galwa. Joktan. Kru-men
had their own tribal names. But, when they engage on the
ocean-steamers, the pursers can not understand them, and they
give them any sort of ridiculous names. Theirs were. James,
Jacob, Kavala. Brass-pan, and Baby.
My boat-shed I was quite willing should be used by visitors
over-night. I always took the chance to talk to them. It was
almost the same as if 1 had visited their village. But, there were
sometimes those who repaid hospitality by attempts at theft. To
them the crime seemed small, when the white man had so much
of (what they called) wealth! On Sunday, the 28th, my newly-
arrived Kru-men found some Fanwe visitors, who had come
on Saturday night, attempting to rob their boxes. One of the
PROSPECTING AGAIN 391
Kru-men made a very musical instrument, a marimba, a kind of
xylophone.
On Wednesday, the 31st, had quite a talk with some visitors,
about the locality and numbers of dwarfs, of the clan called
Akao. Some years later, I came in contact with them. It was
a surprise to me, a dozen years later, to see a good deal written
about them, in the Batanga Interior; as if it was something new
or untried in the mission.
My place became more and more a stopping-resort, for pass-
ing canoes. I approved ; for, I always held up my Gospel work
before them. On Saturday, June 3, there came continuously
from 9 a. m. to 2 p. M., Mpongwe traders with their crews, on
their way up-river, twenty canoes or other crafts. At one time,
there were as many as twelve canoes at my landing, averaging
twelve each for a crew. I did not lack for company that day!
The Fanwe looked, with wide-eyed curiosity, on what they called
my " importance," wondering what drew all those people to me.
But of all, one of the canoes brought letters, and milk, sugar,
and medicines from Mrs. Nassau.
I had not felt well ; but, was aroused to interest, just before
sundown of May 4th, by the arrival from the Interior, of eighteen
canoes under command of Lieutenant Louis Mizon, comman-
dant of the Upper Ogowe and Kongo. He remained to tea (tea
was about the only thing I had, with which to entertain him). I
offered him my hut for the night ; but, he preferred the open out-
side. We sat talking till midnight. His accounts of the in-
terior Aduma tribe greatly spurred my desire to push the making
of new stations on the way to them. [And, yet, thirty years
later, nothing had been clone by Protestants, to reach them.]
Among the many canoes that stopped on Monday, the 5th, was
one from Okanda, with slaves. They were about to stop ; but,
seeing my French flag, and fearing it. they passed on.
On June 6, Nyare himself was a transgressor. One of his
people having seen a few fish in the brook near my waterside, he
sent his women to fish there. As the brook was mine, I ordered
the women away.
Sunday, the nth, was a quiet pleasant day. Nyare, with his
little boy, Bakara, actually came to see me about noon. And, in
the later afternoon, his wife Nyamba came, bringing a little gift.
I had to decline it until another day. Not at all. that a gift
may not be received on Sunday: but, because, to almost all the
natives, " a gift " was (at that time) a commercial transaction.
I drew a strict line against all pecuniary dealings on the Sunday.
392 MY OGOWE
Very early, in the dark of the morning of the 12th, I heard
footsteps and voices passing the hnt. To my demand who they
were, I got no answer. Rushing out with gun and torch, I found
my two Galwas on the path where they had gone, they also hav-
ing heard the footsteps of Fanwe, and were following them.
But, the latter had fled, when they saw me coming.
I was accumulating material of bamboo and thatch, for the
future building. I " trusted " to young men, Galwa traders,
whom I knew, and whom I thought friendly to me, sums of
goods in advance ; for which, they were either to make, or buy,
at better terms than I could get, those materials. (Of course,
they were to retain their " commission " from the goods I ad-
vanced them.) But, I found that, then, they expected me to
pay them also a wage, the wages of the crew and the hire of the
canoe in which they brought the materials. I ceased to deal
further with them. One of them was the man known later as
" Paul " Agon jo. Saturday, the 17th. At the afternoon meet-
ing in Nyare's town. I found that one of his women, who
twice had run away, was in stocks.
Sunday, the 18th. While I respected the old man Mamyaga,
I .found his people thievish, on their visits. A few of Nyare's
people, including the mothers of little Mveli and Bakara, were at
meeting; but, Mamyaga's were disorderly.
On the 20th, Joktan, recovered in health, returned, with two
Shekvani. But, not until three hours later, did he tell me that
in a box he had brought, were letters from Kangwe ! On a hasty
opening of the box. I found Mrs. Nassau's letters ; but, had time,
just as a canoe was passing, to make only a short reply. I was
so grateful to get the letters! Each evening at prayers, 1 had
sung from " Gospel Hymns," a hymn in regular course through
the book. That evening, the one for the day, " The Lord's My
Shepherd, I'll not Want," to the tune of " Evans," was very ap-
propriate. On the next evening. Joktan came to say that he
wished to live a christian life! This was the first profession of
its kind, from any one, of any tribe, since I began my work at
Talaguga, almost four months before. T trusted that it was
only the beginning of good things!
June 24. The tools, with which my men were working, were
a daily curiosity to men, women, and children. The women
were actually afraid of some of them. There were three who
would not even touch the big "one-man" cross-cut saw, as if
they thought its teeth were human. Three of my men went
across the river to shoot a gavial-crocodile which was asleep on
PROSPECTING AGAIN 393
a log - . But, it woke too soon for them. At the afternoon meet-
ing in Nyare's, I was pleased that the little children no longer
feared me. (All native children had feared white men; who,
they had been told, ate their negro slaves.)
On Sunday, June 25, the trader, Joseph Xavier for Chavis),
who had formerly been at Angala, came down-river with his
three canoes. I preached to his crews. But, afterward, they in-
duced the Faiiwe to come and trade and buy and sell. I wel-
comed all visitors at my landing - ; but, I could not allow the Sun-
day trading; and, I ordered the Fanwe away. It seemed impossi-
ble to make the natives understand the right of property in land
and its products of trees, animals, etc. When they stole goods and
other personal property, they knew they were doing wrong. But,
they did not seem to think it wrong to hunt on my premises. I
found some fishing, on the 26th, and ordered them off; and then
complained to Nyare. I was going through the former Belambla
troubles! (I have thought less, since then, of the offenses of
those heathen, when I see how hunters annually trespass on pri-
vate property, in the United States.)
By the 28th, the time had fully come of dry season ; the river
had fallen; my work was progressing; I had, besides my own
hut, and the men's hut, the boat-shed with a room in it. I had
marked the places for foundation-posts of the proposed dwelling
on the hill-side, and had prepared some of the joists and sleep-
ers, and door and window frames. It would be safe for Mrs.
Nassau to join me in the tent. I decided to go to Kangwe for
her. I gave to my two Galwas, Akambie and Joktan, goods for
their support, while I should be away ; and, formally gave to
Nyare and his wife Nyamba, gifts, putting them in charge of my
grounds and young men.
JOURNEY TO KAXGWE.
On Thursday, June 29, while I was loading my canoe, Nyare
came, with a report that Alamyaga's people would steal, while I
was away. I could quite believe that they would if they could.
The story of Belambla had been heard ; and, it might be re-
peated. I could only put him on his pride, as " Chief,"' that he
should prevent the report coming true.
On the way down, I stopped at various places. At Isosa, the
Bakele women were afraid of the Kru-men, thinking them some
strange Fanwe. At Ngwilaka, Njagu-demba's town, the Mpo-
ngwe trader, Xjalele was excited about two Fanwe of the
Abange River, having been killed by the Ngwilaka people. Spent
394 MY OGOWE
the night at Belambla. My Avocado-pear trees were in abun-
dant fruitage. (Natives had not yet learned how to eat them.)
It seemed singular that, the while I was living at Belambla,
I had such a constant warfare to keep the Bakele from settling
there. Now, that it was abandoned, and not even any one in
charge of the house and grounds, there was no longer attempt
to build there ; and, the house, though empty, was not abused or
used. In leaving, on Friday morning, after cutting away a few
trees, I hired two men to clean up the premises. On the way
down, shot an alligator; but, it sank before I could catch it.
Reached Kangwe just as the last bell was ringing for church
preparatory service; and was gladly welcomed by my wife at the
landing. In the evening session-meeting, moderated by Mr.
Robinson, three women, Mamba's mother, Boyo, Aveya's wife,
and Mwenanga, were received on examination.
The next day, Saturday, July i, went with Mr. Reading to
Re-Nkombe's for him to accompany us on an official call on Dr.
Ballay, De Brazza's associate, who was camping at Mr. Sinclair's
old Aguma house. Re-Nkombe was not at his village; and we
went without him. Dr. Ballay attested the Kangwe deed of
property, that failed to be attested on a Sunday several years be-
fore. In afternoon, I preached ; and, in evening was present at
session meeting.
On Sunday, the 2d, I preached at the communion service, and
Mr. Robinson baptized the five additions. It was a delightful
realization of my hopes for the First Ogowe church. And,
great joy to listen to its bell, given by my friend. Mrs. J. PI.
Pratt of Albany, N. Y., and the communion set, given by my
friend, Rev. Dr. Riggs of Rochester, N. Y. There was monthly
concert in the afternoon. It was a deep satisfaction to be with
fellow-christians, after living alone in a heathen forest.
Next day. Mr. Schiff came to say good-by on his furlough,
and to introduce his relief. On Tuesday, the 4th, Dr. Ballay re-
turned our call. And, on Wednesday, Mr. and Mrs. Reading
made a fine dinner for Dr. Ballay, which we (Mr. Robinson, Mrs.
Nassau and I) attended. It was a rare bit of civilization and re-
fined hospitality in the Ogowe wilds.
On Thursday, the 6th, packed for return to Talaguga. In the
evening, I gave exhibition of fire-works 1 had been saving for a
great occasion.
PROSPECTING AGAIN 395
RETURN TO TALAGUGA.
It was a glad day, on Friday, the 7th, that I was taking my
wife from Kangwe (though the uncertainties of the life there
had been relieved by the unfailing kindness of Mrs. Reading)
to what was to be her home at Talaguga; though, as yet, I had
only a camp in the forest, at which to entertain her.
In the Nelly-Howard, with the six Kru-men as crew, and the
kongongo also with a crew of six, and both boats laden with
goods and supplies, we left Andende late in the morning. With
a stoppage in the forest for lunch, reached Mr. Ermy's after dark.
Though we were not expected, Mr. and Mrs. Ermy entertained
us hospitably.
While gathering some flowers in the forest, where we ate our
noon meal on Saturday, the 8th, I found among the rocks of the
water-side, the blue flower which I had dedicated to Mrs. Nassau
in the preceding March. On the way, in passing my former
Bakele villages, the man Mokume and others of Kasa's people
made quite a thrilling scene, in pleading with us to stop and re-
main with them. At Belambla by middle of afternoon; cleaned
up the rooms of the house, and arranged curtains, as partitions
for Mrs. Nassau.
On Sunday, the 9th, a severe headache prevented comfortable
services, even if the Bakele had been less noisy in their boisterous
curiosity to see the white woman. Continuing the journey on
Monday, the 10th, Mrs. Nassau was the cynosure of all eyes, as
we passed the villages. No white woman had ever been in that
part of the river. Nkogo was a good place at which to stop ;
but, there were yet two hours of daylight; and, we went on. At
Erere-volo beach, our boat grounded, and was swung by the
swift current into some bushes ; and the Kru-men lost some of
their goods. And, I was suffering with a violent headache.
As the people of Erere-volo were suspected of being un-
friendly, we pushed on to a camp in the forest after dark. Mrs.
Nassau had borne the journey better than I. It was something
new for me to have a woman's thoughtful attentions.
On the way, next day, stopping to salute the Yeha people, the
head-man gave us elephant meat. Then, the usual forest meal.
And the crews were excited as we entered on the last stretch of
the journey. The Fariwe villages looked with astonishment on
the rapidly-moving handsome boat with its white awning. As
we approached Talaguga, the Kru-men sang their usual boat-
songs, warning my two Galwas at the hut, of our coming. I
396 MY OGOWE
fired my rifle (usual with the river white men) in salute. We
had taken the two young men by surprise, at our arrival two
days in advance of my promised time, and so early in the after-
noon. The two boats were promptly discharged ; the tent was
put up for Mrs. Nassau, and cots arranged for the night. That
evening, we held a glad prayer-meeting of thanks.
CHAPTER XXII
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA, JULY, 1882-DECEMBER, 1882
THE very next day, July 12, I set the Kru-men at digging
the holes for the foundation-posts of the hillside house;
while I put in position the kitchen appliances, for Mrs.
Nassau's superintendence.
During the following days, Nyare and his wife, and Mamyaga
came, with gifts to Mrs. Nassau; and many Fanwe coming to
see the white woman. In the afternoon of Saturday, the 15th,
I took Airs. Nassau on a little excursion by boat to Nyare's.
There. I was told an astonishing report that the down-river Fa-
nwe had said that my coming to Talaguga would kill Nyare and
his people; and that the latter were making witchcraft to ward
off any injury from me! It is quite probable that Kasa's death,
so soon after my breaking with him and leaving Belambla. may
have been looked upon by the people as my vengeance on him for
the robbery. Returning, I continued up-river, to show Mrs. Nas-
sau the Italaguga Rock. The small one. at the mouth of my
little mountain-stream, was only " Little Talaguga."
The most tasty mode, to me. of conking meat, is on a bed of
coals, the meat tied in a bundle of plantain leaves, called igevu.
I had killed a goat, and had some of its meat prepared in that
way for Mrs. Nassau. It was the first she had tasted.
At night of the 20th. appeared an army of driver ants. Mrs.
Nassau tried to get some amusement out of our plight, at having
to flee " from pillow to post.'' Lest the ants should get at our leg
of mutton, I hung it out in the forest. Our good attendant.
Akendenge, with a flaming torch, tried to bar the approaches of
the line of ants to us. Fire is the only thing that can stop that
wonderful army! The ants returned at evening during several
following days.
On the 25th, I took Mrs. Nassau on an excursion to Yena.
Amused several of the Bakele with a few torpedoes and fire-
crackers. Stopped at a number of villages on our return in the
afternoon.
I sent three of the young men. on the 26th. to fish with my
net. Mrs. Nassau followed me up the hill, with Nyare's wife,
397
398 MY OGOVVE
interested in the growth of the building that was expected to be
her home. The foundation-posts had been planted, and sills and
sleepers were being placed on them. The young men returned
from their fishing with only three fishes. I was about to give
them all to the workmen ; but, polite Akendenge said that a fair
share should go to Mrs. Nassau.
On the 28th, a canoe of the French from the Interior, going
down-river, hailed us, and told us that Mons. Alliot was
drowned, probably by a canoe over-turned in the Cataracts. In
the evening, took Mrs. Nassau on excursion in the boat to Njoli,
and enjoyed the moon, a bright planet, the dark forest shades,
the singing of Fanwe villagers, and a stroll on the Njoli sands ;
and returned under a clear moon-light.
Sunday, the 30th. was a quiet pleasant day. The Fanwe were
unusually quiet. Not as much cutting of forests as on other
days. A little boy, Angam, stayed around for some time: and,
I had Mveli recite part of the Fanwe Catechism: and. I told him
the story of Eden. Sang with Mrs. Nassau under the beautiful
moonlight.
Was busy during August days, gathering thatch and other
material for the new house, from the town of Yena. On Au-
gust 3, heard from a passing canoe that the corpse of Mons. Alliot
was found at Okota. For the Saturday visitation, went with
Mrs. Nassau in the boat, to the village of Ndona-ma-vuna. The
people were very attentive. After the prayers, we went into a
hut to see his sick wife. For a native, he seemed unusually care-
ful of her. Mrs. Nassau happened to observe and admire a cer-
tain spear. With oriental etiquette, he offered it to her, saying
that he was ashamed to have nothing better to give her. It was
an unusual demonstration of courtesy.
Mr. Reading had loaned me the Kru-men only for the need
of their strength in handling logs. That was finished by Au-
gust 7; all of the heavy foundation frame of the house being in
position. 1 was sorry to have them go; for. their work was so
much more efficient and obedient than that of the Galwas, whom,
at the best, it was difficult to induce to come to my pioneer priva-
tions. I used the Kru-men that evening for a last service of
their strong arms at the oars, to give Mrs. Nassau another boat-
ride, to the head of Njoli Island, where there was some rapid
water. [Now the site of the French Protestant " Talaguga "
station.] And. the next day. started them on their journey back
to Kangwe.
Tn the afternoon of Thursday, the TOth. came Dr. Rallav and
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IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 399
Lieutenant Mizon, and a fleet of thirty-six canoes, on their way
to the Interior. They brought a mail, twenty-five of whose let-
ters were for Mrs. Nassau and myself. They brought also a
deed of the land. In their canoe, they held Agon jo, a prisoner.
I did not know for what offense. He looked appealingly to me ;
but, I did not speak for him, to the officers. Even if I had ap-
pealed, I could not deny whatever charge they had against him.
My feet were lame with sores from bites of chigoes, which
were becoming numerous. At the afternoon meeting at Nyare's,
on the 1 2th; the people were unusually quiet. They had ceased
to laugh at the closed eyes of prayer as something amusing.
By the 14th, the neighboring villages were beginning to learn
that, though I did not "trade" in ivory; I had needs, for which
I would buy various things, in an informal daily market. One
man brought some little fish; a woman, some charcoal (for our
laundry-irons) ; another, the carcass of a gazelle. Nyare came
for medicine, and to ask permission for his people to cross my
premises, in dragging from the forest, a new-made canoe. Of
course, I assented willingly. But, I was distressed that he had
not understood that my protests against " trespass " on my prop-
erty were based on his people taking something from me. I was
glad of his industry for a canoe. A woman came for a gift of
soap; and, for medicine to help her pregnancy!
Mrs. Nassau had soon learned to like the fish cooked in igevn.
Akendenge succeeded in baking some very good bread.
On the 17th, just before retiring time at night, I observed a
light on the river-bank. ^ T ith one of my men, Elder Nguva, I
went stealthily toward the spot; and, to my surprise, found our
polite friend Ndofia-ma-vuna, another man, and two women
fishing. I was indignant, after all the explanations I had made
about my rights : and ordered them off. They fled : and Nguva
captured their fishing baskets. Early the next day, the two men
came to claim their baskets. I ordered the one off; and, in pres-
ence of the other, cut the baskets to pieces. And, to other men
and women who were passing, I told them the reason for what
I had done. Some Fanwe men came to work, I took them ; but,
they were a poor substitute for the Kru-men.
Xjagu-demba came in the afternoon of Wednesday, the 23d.
He sold me part of a plantain-bunch, and gave me the remainder.
I aroused his wonder with some torpedoes and fire-crackers.
The house on the hillside, elevated on posts, and with its frame
already set up. he was astonished at, and asked whether " God
made it?" He said that Fanwe could not build such a house.
400 MY OGOW E
I showed him my watch. He thought that the ticking was witch-
craft ; and. when I opened its case, and he saw the spring, he and
his women shuddered, and asked me to close it, lest they should
" die by it." In the evening, I had music with Mrs. Nassau.
My cornet sounded well, with its echoes among the hills. Next
day. several of Njagu-demba's women came up the hillside, to
watch the building of the house. One of them quite aroused
Mrs. Nassau's pity. The woman was nursing an infant whose
mother had been left up-river as a pawn for an ivory tusk!
Nyare's wife was attentive to Mrs. Nassau with little gifts of
food. Our flour was almost exhausted ; and we began to eke it
out by baking rolls of native farinya.
On the 25th, Laseni's men stopped, and asked for food. Dur-
ing the previous week, they had brought down Agonjo, whom
the French had released. And. now they were returning up-
river. I felt obligated to Laseni ; and. little food as I had, I
shared with them.
Hv Thursday, the 31st, my feet were so sore that I could not
walk to the villages; and could do little of supervision of the
building: and was nauseated and feverish. Two of Ndona-ma-
vuna's women were admiring Mrs. Nassau's long hair. T saw
that one of them had a broken finger, which had united with a
false joint. She said that he had done it. in anger. How we
had been deceived by his politeness the day we had visited his
village! Quite a number of Fail we men came and said that they
would like to work for me in order to get goods ; but, that they
feared the witchcraft which they were told I had! Mrs. Nassau
enjoyed sketching. 1 helped her with one picture, in which she
showed the enormous trunk, buttresses, and roots of a big tree.
At its foot I sketched some wild animals, and at the bottom added
a rhyme. Mrs. Nassau sent the whole to her two little Foster
nephews :
The parrots and monkey and elephant, all.
With the wild pig that grunts at the foot of the tree.
Saw " Come, little boys, list to our call.
Come over to Africa, these big roots to see."
The only constant female companion, whom Mrs. Nassau had.
was a young Galwa schoolgirl. Onivi, betrothed to Elder Nguva.
I sometimes had to leave her alone with that young girl, when I
went away with the workmen as my crew. Tt was slow await-
ing for natives to go into the lagoon and cut bamboo-palm fronds,
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 401
and then have to haggle about a price. So, one day, September
2, I went myself and my young men, down as far as Yen a. I
remained in the canoe, and all the crew went oft" into the forest.
They returned for their mid-day meal; and then went back to
work. At sun-down, they returned with seventy fronds. With
this load we . started slowly, the crew already tired with their
day's work. The night journey was picturesque, with torch-
lights of fishers on the banks. Near Talaguga, I fired my Win-
chester; Mrs. Nassau would recognize its report (so different
from that of the trade-guns) and would know that I was com-
ing. She came to the beach with a torch. She was very brave.
We landed in rain. The floor of the tent was wet. This, and
distant reports of thunder on the next night, made me anxious
about her longer stay at Talaguga with only tent protection. The
rainy season was coming, and she would need to return to
Kangwe.
On Monday, the 4th, though my feet were so sore, I went up
the hill, to sit there and see that the workmen did not idle.
While there, in the afternoon, I heard reports of guns and Fa-
riwe canoe-songs. The reports were of a white man's gun (per-
cussion guns were not sold to the natives) ; and, Mrs. Nassau
responded with my rifle. Mr. Reading's canoe, with Njagu-
demba's, were at my landing. Mr. Reading was kindly bringing
us needed supplies. He had sent them a week before; and his
crew had fled back to Kangwe, saying that they had been as-
saulted by the Fanwe below the Sanjala village. Then, know-
ing our necessity, he had determined to bring the canoe-load him-
self. (For, only in a great crises, would the natives attack a
white man.) The company of Njagu-demba had been a great
protection to him. And, I was g*lad to buy a quantity of plan-
tains and potatoes from the chief.
On Tuesday, September 5, Mr. Reading returned to Kangwe.
And. we had again a good food supply. Mrs. Nassau was in-
terested in collecting the flora of the place. And, I, from time
to time, collected bugs, small animals, and butterflies. There
was a rare butterfly, known in that part of Africa, the Antima-
chus. That day, I saw one resting on the edge of the brook, and
I flung a net over it; thought I had it. But, only the edge of
the net touched it ; and it escaped. It is the largest butterfly of
the world. At that time, scientists were offering $25 for a
single specimen.
Among the books and papers that I read to Mrs. Nassau dur-
402 MY OGOWE
ing our rest-hours, was the story of De Long's death (of the
"Jeannette") in Siberia. We were in the opposite extreme,
only 12 miles south of the equator!
Xyare returned, on the 8th, from a journey, with a new wife
whom he had bought ; and, the woman came to see Mrs. Nassau.
But, we reserved our interest for the good Nyamba, who had
first been introduced to me as Nyare's " wife." She always re-
mained a true friend. Under civilization. I would have called
her queenly. The next time that he asked me for a gift of cloth,
I more than half-seriously advised him to send back the new
woman to her family from whom he had bought her; and, then,
with his returned goods, he would not need to ask me for gifts.
On Sunday, the ioth, my diary records: "How much hap-
piness God has given me this year, after my loneliness in the
eleven preceding years."
On Tuesday, the 12th, had to stop work that could not go on
without my superintendence, in order to civilly receive my vis-
itors Nyare and Mamyaga and a number of his own Interior
visitors, whom he had brought to see " his white man." There
was a long talk, very unsatisfactory to me, the gist of which was
that the two men wished me to give them gifts oftener, in order
that they might accumulate goods, with which to buy more wives !
T do not know what caused my men often to sicken. That T,
as a foreigner, should often be feverish was to be expected. I
am sure that was not the cause with them. Nor. could it be
work ; for. though T was exacting as to diligence. T was never
severe as to a difficult task. Perhaps, they missed the society
and amusements of their own homes. As to food ; while they
were rarely short, it is true that there was not obtainable among
the Fail we the same kind and variety to which they were used
at their own tribes. Sometimes, it was true that that " sickness "
was a pretense. Rut, it was not so in the case of Elder Nguva.
T had been willing for him to leave, as he could not work: my
medicines seemed to do him 110 good; and the sight of his weak-
ness distressed me. So, T was pleased to see him go, in a pass-
ing canoe.
Albinism is not rare among the negro tribes. But, I had
not before seen an albino among the Faiiwe, until on the 14th, I
saw one in a canoe going up-river.
At the Saturday afternoon service, on the 16th, in Nyare's
where Njagu-demba was still visiting. T had a remarkable talk
with the latter on religion. He was a very intelligent man.
But, next day, at my Sunday services, his people were rude and
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 403
noisy. Our act of prayer, always, at first, aroused native laugh-
ter. They were not ignorant of prayer in their own fetish cere-
monies ; but, they were not accustomed to closed eyes. A Fa-
fiwe passed by, with a large specimen of the very poisonous snake,
the pe (Echidna Gabonica) a horned viper. *
The ethics of many things with the natives differed from mine.
I hired a Fafiwe to cut down one of my trees. For that purpose
he borrowed an axe of another Fafiwe ; he broke the axe. I ex-
pected that he would demand that I should pay for the axe, on
the basis that it was broken in my service. But, he did not.
So, when I paid him his wage, I gave him a gift besides.
As I was to leave temporarily, to take Mrs. Nassau to Kangwe,
safe from the expected rainy season, I decided to close my con-
tention with Ndona-ma-vuna, about his fishing trespass.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
By Tuesday, September 26, the house was safely under its
thatch roof ; and a portion of the walls was enclosed.
Leaving Akendenge and Nyanda in charge, we started in the
Nelly-Howard, with only two men, Galwas. I did not think it
safe to take any of the Fafiwe clan : and, anyhow, they knew
nothing about oars. But, going with the current, and resting
often by stopping to salute the villages, we made good progress ;
and. after dark, stopped for the night at Isosa.
Xext day. onward, stopping at other villages. At Njagu-'
demba's Xgwilaka. a crowd of women were wondering at the
white woman.
Taking the mid-day meal at Belambla, by sunset we were at
the Island " Factory." ^Ir. Ermy's. Hospitably received by him
and his Sierra Leone assistant, Mr. Francis. The next day,
Thursday, on our way: and, after the mid-day lunch on Fetish
Point, at the mouth of the Ngunye, we sighted the journey's
end. Mrs. Nassau entered into the enthusiasm of the occasion,
by firing my Winchester as a salute to Mrs. Reading at Andende,
and then we went to the house on the Hill.
On Friday, the 29th. in afternoon. Rev. W. H. Robinson, in
charge of the church quarterly communion, preached at the pre-
paratory service.
On the 30th, a mail was awaiting us: and Mrs. Nassau and I
read our glad remembrances. In the afternoon, at another serv-
ice, I preached. At the session meeting, two Galwas. Njambi
and Bigman were received : Mrs. Ermy brought her letter from
the Gaboon church: and Mr. and Mrs. Reading brought theirs,
4 o4 MY OGOWK
from their Frenchtown church, New Jersey. And, he was
elected as ruling- elder.
On Sunday, October t. at communion. Mr. Reading was or-
dained and installed ; and Mrs. Ermy's two children, and the two
Galwas were baptized. Monthly concert in the afternoon. Mrs.
Nassau's enjoyment was great of this " church in the wilder-
ness."
The next day. we were busy opening some of Mrs. Nassau's
boxes. In the afternoon, there was a Fanwe war-cloud that
sent me to Andende with my rifle. And, in the evening", music
with my flute and Mrs. Nassau's organ.
On Wednesday, the 4th. there was more opening of some of
our treasures. From one of the boxes, we brought out a hand-
some parlor-lamp, a wedding-gift, of just a year before, from
my cousin, Miss Maude Hamill. In the morning of Sunday, the
8th, I preached for Mr. Robinson. And. on Monday, went to
the trading-houses, to get a supply of goods for return to Tala-
guga. On Tuesday, the 10th, I killed a goat, and made a feast
for the schoolboys, on the first anniversary of my marriage. At
our anniversary dinner, were present. Rev. W. H. Robinson, and
Mr. and Mrs. Reading and their little daughter Elizabeth. Our
American wedding cake, which had been reserved for that oc-
casion, was cut. and shared. Sent some to Mr. Gibson ( succes-
sor to Mr. Sinclair), and to Mr. Romahn (successor to Mr.
Scruff) .
Former Galwa employees (of the rebellions school-company
of 1880") returned to me. willing to re-enter my service. They
were a sufficient crew for my native boat. Rut, T needed also,
others for the two canoes of Mr. Readings which were to be
loaded with our goods and supplies. Tie favored Fanwe, and
suggested employing them, rather than Galwas. Mrs. Nassau
was to remain at the Kangwe school for three months, until
her house at Talaguga should be completed. On Wednesday.
the i ith. went to Andende landing, to load the three crafts. But.
the promised Fanwe failed to appear; and. T had to defer the
journey for two days.
JOURXEY TO TALAGUGA WITH FANWE.
On Fridav. the 13th. everything was unfavorable. ( If \ had
had a particle of absurd superstition. T would not have gone.) T
was feverish: my neck stiff with a cold; the season was the rainy,
and storms were certain to be met; and. the Fanwe crews which
Mr. Reading had finally with difficulty obtained, were rebellious,
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 405
from the very start; and, I knew that I should have difficulty
with them. We were late in starting. A storm met us at the
Ngunye mouth. The Fan we proved themselves incapable, even
as paddlers. And, I stopped, wet and weary, at an Akele village
for the night. I would rather have gone into the forest, for
sake of the order of the crews ; but, it was not safe for me in
the rain. As I had feared, next morning, there was a quarrel
between my Fan we and the Bakele, over a charge of the former
that the latter had stolen from them. Doubtless, the charge was
true. But, the Bakele were defiant, and dared me to remain and
submit to a witchcraft test of their truth. That was absurd;
with delay the quarrel would have grown to a fight. And, I
forced my people to start away. They were very disobedient on
the way, laying down their paddles to argue with each other;
and, some actually bringing out food and knife to begin to eat
long before meal-time. As I ordered one to lay down his knife,
and he did not obey me, I reached to take it away. He snatched
it from me ; and, in doing so, cut my hand. I knew that it was
an accident, and said nothing. But, the sight of the white man's
blood frightened them for a while. So slow was our progress
that we did not reach Belambla until 11 o'clock at night. (I
dreaded for the Fanwe stopping at another Akele village.) For-
tunately, the threatening rain held off. Rested at Belambla over
Sunday the 15th.
Made better progress on Monday, the 16th, eating our mid-
day meal in the forest opposite Ngwilaka. Then went to Njagu-
demba, to ask him for his people to help me. But, his demand
for pay was so exorbitant, that I left, determining to struggle
on as I was. Passed on, in rain, stopping after dark, in the
forest near Xkogo. I risked the rain, rather than another Akele
quarrel.
On Tuesday, the 17th, I was very wet and cold. Time was
lost, all along the journey, by the three crafts not keeping to-
gether. My presence was a necessary protection for all; and, I
dared not go ahead with my crew (as they desired to do) and
leave the others behind. So, from time to time, I made re-ar-
rangement of the crews, putting stronger hands in place of
weaker ones. Thus I got along pretty well, until after dark ;
when, after passing a desirable camping-place, I refused to stop
anywhere than at Talaguga. The Fafiwe then were on the point
of mutiny, and would do nothing without violent urging. In
passing Yena, their insubordination became so great, that, in
my determination to reach home that night, I took all of Elder
406 MY OGOWE
Nguva's crew, leaving him and his canoe-load at Yena (for, it
was boards, and could not be hurt by rain). His crew I dis-
tributed into the other two crafts. Finally, at 10 p. m., Tala-
guga was reached. And, the two crafts were discharged. I had
two kittens, whose lives, at once (before attending to myself), I
tried to save, with warmth and milk. They were dying of the
cold and exposure of the journey. In putting away my other
wet treasures, and writing to Mrs. Nassau, for the Fanwe's de-
parture next day (for, I wished to get rid of them as soon as pos-
sible, and not have them on my hands to feed from my limited
stock), it was long after midnight, and on to 4 a. m. of next
morning, before I went to bed. I wondered at my endurance.
AT TALAGUGA.
On Wednesday, 18th, I awoke cold and stiff; for, I had no
dry coverings. I sent five of the Galwas down to Yena, to
bring Elder Nguva and his canoe-load of boards. And, spent
the day sleepily, in efforts to dry my clothing. Nguva and his
company arrived in the evening. Next day, despatched Mr.
Reading's Fanwe in his two crafts. And, put the Galwas at
washing and ironing the calico trade-prints, all of which, with all
my other belongings of provisions and goods, had been soaked
by the rains of the journey. It was the worst journey I had
ever made in the river. The impression that those slow insubor-
dinate Fanwe made on me was indelible. Though I had. some-
times subsequently, to use Fanwe as a crew, I never zvishcd to
use them. [My last memory of that part of the Ogowe is a ride
in January, 1906, with a Fanwe crew, which a French missionary
friend had sent to carry me from Belambla to Andende.]
On Friday, the 20th, the accumulation of exposures had their
inevitable effect. I was taken down with fever-chills. But, I
sat in the hut, and directed Akendenge where he should put
away the various articles on shelves and in boxes.
Bv Saturday, the fever was broken; but. I was too weak to
go to the service in the villages. I sent Elder Nguva in my
place. The days had been very rainy. The mountain-brook was
a torrent, and " Little Talaguga Rock " was almost covered.
I had brought grenadilla vines, and citron and other plants
from Kangwe. Having saved my goods and provisions, and
having started Nguva and Ompwenge at planing boards. I found
time for planting. On the 27th, I felt so depressed about the
prospect of accomplishing anything with the Fanwe, that I was
willing to abandon Talaguga, and go to some other tribe, any
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 407
one of whom (excepting the Akele) seemed more hopeful in
their receptivity. The only consideration that made me willing
to remain was the original one, which had governed my selection
of Talaguga, i. e., that it would be only a way-station to the
more important Interior. In that light, it was worth retaining,
simply as a depot for exchange of crews, independent of any
christian work among the adjoining people. White ants I found
doing their secret work of destruction among my boxes, in the
dampness and darkness of the hut.
I think that my nerves were awry, and probably my liver out
of order, on the 28th. Part of the fault must have been in my-
self, and not all of it in the workmen, who seemed to me (most
of them) doing their work in the wrong way. After sending one
of them from his work, to sit in his hut and do nothing, I sat
down myself. The evening was oppressively quiet.
Besides my own people, there was only one outsider, a Fafiwe,
at morning service of the 29th; the same at the afternoon Sab-
bath school. Only one, of the many in the villages! Had a
conversation with Joktan about strange actions which had led to
my rebuke of him. He seemed to have some hidden distress in
his heart. Quite a number of visitors on Monday, the 30th.
Nyare's wife came, wishing to exchange for another a cloth
which one of her people had bought of me with plantains. Ma-
myaga came also. And Nyare himself. I g'ave him a talk
about his assumptions of authority. The w T hite ants were still at
their destructive work. But, I enlivened the evening with some
notes on the cornet.
By the 31st, the work on the house was going on well. Nyare
and his young man Ntula came to watch its growth. It made
my hut look slightly home-like that one of my hens had hatched
four little chicks. They stayed near the tent where they were
born. Actually, they were company to me, as I watched their
antics.
The rats and mice were bad in the hut. On November 1.
Ndofia-ma-vuna came and presented me with a wild-rat, as a
final peace-offering for his fishing transgression of the previous
dry season. I accepted it ; and, my people ate it. They worked
with zeal and obedience at the building; and, all seemed very
happy. The next day, an unusual number of visitors to my
much-resorted-to landing-place. About 11.30 a.m., Ogwi-
mpana (Galwa) and his crew, on his way up-river; about noon,
Ndambenje (Orungu) and five canoes, on their way down ; about
1.30 p. m. came Sambunaga. And, at 2 p. m,, Orondo and Asi-
4 o8 MY OGOWE
mbo, with letters from Mrs. Nassau. At the evening prayers,
sixty of those crews were present. On Saturday, the 4th, I was
too weak and wearied with the week's tasks ; I did not go to the
town-visiting, but sent Elder Nguva.
On the Monday, Nyare came with a hen and her seven chicks,
to leave them in my care, as he thought my camp safer from
hawks than was his village. The new family was company for
mine.
I felt very ill and restless, and weary of the house-building.
On November 8, Okota people stopped for the night, on their
way down-river. They were housed under my safe boat-shed on
the little island, the access to which was by a tree-trunk which
I had felled across the little mountain-stream. The log had been
leveled on its upper side; but, one needed to step carefully on
that narrow bridge.
By November nth, the work on the house had progressed,
so that it was enclosed. Much of that the young men had done
without my supervision. But, the laying of the floor I did my-
self. The few imported pine boards were too valuable for even
a foot of them to be wasted with careless sawings. I had seen
the reckless waste of boards by carpenters in the United States.
I had to be painfully economical. Mamyaga with two of his
people came ; and impolitely remained when I sat down to my
noon meal, staring at my eating, in an annoying way. Per-
haps he expected to be invited to join. But, that was imprac-
ticable. To do it for one, I should do it for all native visitors.
They were too many; and my larder was too limited. (I did it
sometimes at the older stations.) I found, later, that he had
come to beg for some coal-tar. ( I used it to protect my founda-
tions from white-ants.) Of course, the natives wished for
every new thing of the white man, even if it did not fit into their
civilization. I gave up the entire afternoon to the villiage meet-
ings, sending Elder Nguva with two others down-river a mile or
so; Akendenge and Awora to Ndona-ma-vuna's ; and, I went to
Nyare' s.
On Sunday, the 12th, I over-slept, and was awakened by
Nyare's voice. He and his wife were in a hurry to fulfill a
promise to come to service!
On Monday. November 13, in the morning, came a Mr. Rene of
the German house, on his way up-river with three canoes. I was
disappointed that he brought me no mail from Kangwe. True,
Kangwe was a mile, by river, from the trading-houses, and Mrs.
Nassau was dependant on Mr. Reading for all canoe-service.
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 409
And, of course, I did not expect those houses to notify Mr. Read-
ing. I finished laying the floor of the house. In the evening,
a tornado came down-river. I enjoyed listening to the roaring
wind, and the crashing thunder, and in watching the swaying
trees and the flashing lightning.
On Tuesday, the 14th, again I was disappointed. A Mr. Bohn,
of the German house stopped; he was sick; and I gave up my
room to him. But, his crew outrageously began to make use
of my precious bamboo, which I had to use force to save. To
them, bamboo was worth nothing; any one could get all one
wished by going to the forest swamp. And, at their houses,
abundance was kept on hand. But, mine had been obtained only
after delay, and at a heavy price, from unwilling Bakele. I
spent an uncomfortable night, trying to sleep in a chair.
Next morning, Mr. Bohn was better, and I entertained him
as my guest. But, I had no food to spare to either give or sell to
his crews. So he and they removed to Nyare's; and he estab-
lished himself there. Nyare had no difficulty in finding food to
sell to Mr. Bohn, for rum. He had not been able often to sell to
me for other goods ! I pondered much on what would be the
effect of trade establishing itself so near me. How affairs had
developed ! Only eight months before, I had come to Talaguga,
the advance (resident) white man, the first on the verge. And,
now. two were settled beyond me, and one near me !
On Friday, the 17th, leaving Elder Nguva alone, I went with
all the others down-river, for building materials, stopping at sev-
eral villages to ask them to have plantains ready to sell when I
should return the next day. At Yeha, the whole village was
intensely interested in making witchcraft enchantments, for suc-
cess in elephant-hunting. These, they intermitted in the evening
long enough for me to hold a meeting in the street. I read and
sang in their Dikele ; but, they did not understand my address in
Mpongwe. In the evening, I had a talk with a few of the little
boys, teaching them the name of Jesus.
Next day, I had to wait, in order to buy the thatch I wanted,
until the completion of the witchcraft ceremonies with a gro-
tesque procession around the village. While waiting there,
Oguma (Galwa) with five large canoes, came up-river; and, see-
ing me at the landing, handed me letters from Mrs. Nassau !
Her letters were of date November 10 and 12, in which she said
that a mail had been sent on the 8th to the German house, for
forwarding. And had evidently been forgotten ; for Messrs.
Rene and Bohn had come from there! Reached home that
4 io MY OGOWE
night ; and found two of Mr. Bonn's crew with Nguva. Just
after their departure, I missed a drinking mug.
The only Fail we present at meeting on Sunday, the 19th, was
little Angam. At the close of service, I heard the strokes of an
axe on the hill. Suspecting that some Fan we had taken advan-
tage of my occupation at service, thus hoping that I would not be
able to discover them, I went rapidly but quietly alone toward
the sounds ; and found four of Nyare's people cutting down a
bee-tree. At sight of me, they all but one promptly fled; and,
the fourth one fled when I struck him with a stick of wood. I
captured their axe and iron-pot.
I was very angry; and read and thought much during the after-
noon, as to what course I should pursue. Those outrages were
changing, not my nature, but my attitude. I had been too irenic.
War was justifiable in self-defense. There was no French arm
to whom to appeal. I went to Nyare's to see Mr. Bohn who was
sick. I controlled myself about the trespass, and said nothing;
but, expected that there would be a talk next day, from the man
whom I had struck.
On Monday, the 20th. the expected Fariwe crowd did not
come. Work went on well at the interior partition-walls of the
house. One of the offenders of Sunday, Otyaga, came to see
how I felt toward him. Bakele came from Yefia to sell thatch
which I was needing. Awore came asking to join the church
inquiry class! And, after evening-prayers. Elder Nguva came
to consult me about his prospective marriage, and to explain about
the missing mug of Saturday night. All these good things made
me feel humbly grateful to God who seemed to be favoring the
station.
On the 22d, while I was repairing a log bridge over the gulley
near Nyare's boundary line, Jime, another of the bee-tree offend-
ers, came by. I took no notice of him. Two Bakota canoes
came down-river to Mr. Bohn, to try to induce him to go and
live with them fas he had originally intended to do). But, he
concluded not to go. I amused them with fire-crackers; and had
a pleasant chat with them. I longed to go with them : for. my
Benga-tongue was at once of use with them. And. I was making
slow work at acquiring the Fanwe dialect.
Went to Nyare's on Saturday, the 25th, and he made a talk
about the offenders of the bee-tree. (I believed him as guilty as
they; at least, he could have prevented trespass, if he had chosen
to do so.) T planned to go on the following Monday, down to
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 411
Ngwilaka; and I asked him for the loan of his canoe, and Mr.
Bohn for the loan of two of his men.
On Sunday, the 26th, very early, came word that Mr. Romahn
(in charge of the German house at Lembarene) had sent a canoe
with orders for Mr. Bohn to remove. But, Nyare refused to
allow either Mr. Bohn or his goods to depart. (That was, at
that time, the native chiefs' attitude to white traders; the latter
" belonged " to them.) Nyare did not care for my Gospel, and
would not come to meetings. But, at the close of service, he
came with two women and a sick child to get medicine for the
child. Two canoes arrived from Ngwilaka, having plantains to
sell. They waited for the morrow, for the sale. I had an im-
pressive talk with Akendenge and Ompwenge, hoping to interest
them in personal work as Scripture-readers (evangelists) or, as
teachers in the Kangwe school.
JOURNEY TO NGWILAKA.
As I had heard that there were lying at Ngwilaka for me a lot
of boards, forwarded that far by Mr. Reading, it was necessary
to go to Njagu-demba's, although I was weak from bowel trou-
ble. Nyare was willing to loan me his canoe, but he could give
me no crew. So, I preferred to take Mr. Bonn's canoe and
two of his people ; and I induced Ndona-ma-vufia and another
man also to go, starting on Monday, the 27th. (The friend-
ship with the former had been entirely restored.) On the way
down, met a Mpongwe, Angila-kukulani, and several canoes.
He had with him the three little boxes of mail which Mrs. Nas-
sau had tried to send on the 8th, but which the German house
had neglected to forward ! I had abundance of letters to read, as
we floated down river! At Njagu-demba's, that evening, I
found him sick. And, Mr. Reading's letter (three weeks old)
and boards and boxes were at the trader's house. There was no
opportunity for any public service. Next day, Njagu-demba
gave me two men; and, loading my boards and boxes (and, also
five bags of salt for Mr. Bohn) I started homeward, reaching
Yena for the night.
The following day, I continued, though weak; and stopping
to deliver to Mr. Bohn his salt, I was at my house by the middle
of the afternoon.
AT TALAGUGA.
Already, by December 1, Nyare's people were stealing from
Mr. Bohn. i told the former that I would confiscate part of
412 MY OGOWE
the wages of Otyaga, for his bee-tree offense. Saturday, the 2d,
was an ominously quiet morning; no Faiiwe moving about. At
noon, heard that one of Ndona-ma-vuna's men had shot his own
wife and child. I went to his village to inquire about the mur-
der. The child, a little girl, was not dead, but was wounded in
the legs. The people told me they would pay me many things,
if I would save the child. (Of course, I did not wish for pay.)
Nodona-ma-vuna regretted that he had nothing fit to offer
me.
Sunday, the 3d, was a beautifully bright morning. Two of
Mr. Bohn's people came to service. Just after meeting, a canoe
of Galwas, on their way to Okanda, came, and stayed quietly dur-
ing the day. At noon, I went to Ndoha-ma-vuna's, and dressed
the little girl's wounds. The town's-people were grateful, and
presented me with a bush-rat. (My employees got some com-
fort out of it for their supper.) My Galwa visitors came to Sab-
bath school, and were very respectful.
Mr. Bohn had been wishing to leave Nyare's thieving village,
but was practically a prisoner. One of Mr. Bohn's men came to
me on Monday, the 4th, with word that Nyare was preventing his
master from an attempt to' go away with his goods. It was an
appeal for aid. I knew the custom of the river (at that time)
and felt indignant that a civilized man should be subjected to
it by a heathen cannibal. Myself had escaped from Belambla
only by diplomacy. I went to Xyare. and expostulated with him.
(I think that something was said to him about appeal to French
power.) He asserted that he was not hindering either Mr. Bohn
or his goods ; that he was only demanding pay for the use of his
house. T much doubted the truth of either of his statements:
though it was possible that Mr. Bohn had not understood him.
Xo chief would ask " pay " for the use of his house, as long as
the visitor was pleased to stay. I believed that the demand was
made only to exact something more from Mr. Bohn before his
departure. Under the circumstances, I advised him to give it.
lie did so; and got away immediately with his goods. I stand-
ing by, until he had hastily completed the loading of his canoe.
T did not like being mixed up in a trade matter ; but. I wished
to help a white man. I might need help myself some day. And,
T was, incidentally pleased to see that I had gained a little in-
fluence. At sunset, Ntula, one of the bee-tree offenders, came to
ask about his axe which I still held possession of.
On Tuesday, the 5th, Bilari paid me eight eggs, as a fine for
his trespass of six months before! Xyare came, alarmed at the
IX CAMP AT TALAGUGA 413
fear that the French might punish him for his violence to Mr.
Bohn. I said nothing to quiet his fears.
On Thursday, the 7th, all busy at the house on the hillside.
The walls and floor had already been completed; and, now, the
doors and window-frames were being put in place. Akendenge
made a special effort for my dinner, which I enjoyed more than
any meal I had had for a month : croquettes of canned beef and
dried potatoes, pan-cakes, and pumpkin pie. I had sent my peo-
ple down-river, to the village of a Faiiwe, Nguwe, below Yeha,
for bamboo ; they had returned without any, and with a story of
difficulty and danger. So, on Friday, the 8th, I went myself,
borrowing also Xyare's canoe and three of his people. We made
a most rapid descent in two hours ; got the bamboos without dif-
ficulty; and, only stopping to eat in the forest, were back again
by 10 at night. I felt grateful for the successful day.
On Saturday, I gave back to Otyaga his captured pot of three
weeks before ; but. I confiscated a knife that was due him on his
wages. Of Xyare's seven chicks, three had died; and I sent
back to him the hen and the remaining four. My own little
broods, out of which I got some pleasure in watching them, were
thriving. "Beauty's"' one chick was able to roost out-doors;
and " Pantalet's." seven were growing.
On Sunday, the 10th, there was wailing at Xyare's, for the
death of one of his little children, who had been sick for some
time. On such occasions there is always a crowd of visitors to
be fed. I saw X'tula in a canoe, with dogs, going on a hunt.
African wailing for a death was ever, to me, a most sadly de-
pressing sound. A woman, passing with her water-jug, stopped
to tell me of the child. Her mute pointing down to the ground,
as descriptive of the end of life, was so sad, as the heathen point
of view. I tried to give her christian view, upward. Sambu-
naga and his crew stopped on their way down-river: and, Jok-
tan who had been sick, went with him. After he was gone, his
companions told me of symptoms, of which I had not been told,
which made me believe he had smallpox. He had had a chill
on Friday: on the Sunday (the third day) his face was broken
out with pimples ; voice rough ; swelling of glands in the groin ;
pains in back and head. The disease was probably contracted
twelve days before, on our journey to X'gwilaka. On Monday,
the entire household was busy at washing all worn or soiled
garments, cleaning furniture, and fumigating all places where
Joktan had been sitting or lying.
While I was busy, on the afternoon of Tuesday, with my work-
4H MY OGOWE
men, at the house on the hillside, Nyare came with seven Fan we
visitors from the Interior. One of them was a very suspicious-
looking fellow. I could not leave my work, to entertain them,
just at that time; but, allowed them to look around my houses.
When the afternoon work was done, and I came down to the
water-side hut. for supper, that fellow and another were still
hanging around so offensively, that I drove them away. After
they were gone, I missed my " Pantalets " and her chicks. I
went to Nyare's, to charge his guests with theft ; but. he was not
at home. I returned, feeling depressed, lest I had been unjust
in my suspicion, or unwise in my driving away of the men. I
needed more patience. Worry over work had made me lose
control of my nerves or judgment. Perhaps this was the cause
of the coldness I had felt in my religious meetings during the
month previous. If my chickens were stolen, they had been re-
turned ; for, they were on hand, in the morning of the 13th.
When one of the men of the day before came again to see me. I
gave him a small gift, to make up for my treatment of him.
Jime came to ransom his axe of the bee-tree trespass. But, his
offer was so small that I declined it.
On Thursday, the 14th, I was pleased to see some signs of
the people recognizing my right to the premises and everything
on it. I woke early, hearing the noise of women going to gather
wild mango fruits, for making odika. Some of the trees were
on my grounds, and I had given them permission. And, Nyare
came to ask that his men might fish for the day in the brook. I
was quite willing. Was pleased to assure him that that was all
that I had been demanding, a recognition of my rights. Ma-
myaga came to ask for some carbolic acid ; he had found it use-
ful, in my medication of him. And, then, lie was very much
pleased, and apparently amused, in telling me about his murder
of a woman of an adjoining clan, at Bitaga! I finished the
doors and windows of the house; and it was ready for occupancy
by my wife. I breathed a sigh of satisfaction. Put, first, was
needed the kitchen (a detached hut) ; and work was begun on
it at once.
The plan of the completed hillside cottage was twenty-four
feet by twenty-two feet.
All these rooms were open to the roof, except the dining and
spare rooms: they were ceiled. Thus, making an attic above
(reached by a ladder) where goods could be stored.
T had not acquired enough of Fanwe to preach in it, but, T
could talk a few sentences for ordinary conversation. But, more
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 415
than that I had impressed the people with a sense of affiliation
with them. I had, in all my missionary life, felt strongly that
adaptation to environment is the first law of existence. I was
pleased when I over-heard Ndona-ma-vuna remark, " Nasa a ta
mana Fan " (Nassau has become a real (literally " a child " of)
Fan we).
Mr. Ermy came in his large canoe, on Sunday, the 17th, and
brought me from Kangwe, some boxes of provisions, and a mail.
It was not rare that civilized men, in that wild life, sometimes
forgot the day of the week. Mr. Ermy thought that the day
was Saturday. Nyare and some of his people came to see me.
Their extreme covetousness, that would be always begging for
something, I had checked by rebuking when they asked too often,
and never giving anything on Sunday, lest it should look like
paying them to come to service. (The Roman Catholic priest at
his Lembarene Mission gave them, at the church-door, a glass of
rum.) It was half-provoking and half-amusing to see their at-
tempt to avoid my rule, in their saying, " We are not asking you
to-day, but we will come to-morrow to ask you for something."
Monday, the 18th, found me excited by the mail of Sunday.
Nyamba came with a present of fresh corn for me, and ingwese
for my people. She said that Nyare, in his anger about some-
thing, wanted to shoot her. With a memory of the affectionate
relations she had seen between myself and Mrs. Nassau during
our camp-life of the preceding dry season, she remarked that
" the custom of one man and one wife " was better than the
Fan we polygamy.
T like pets; and, having no dog or cat, I petted my chickens,
giving names to them. One of them, " Specks," came off her
nest with a brood of six chicks : making seventeen little chickens
in the yard. At night of the 19th, had a pleasant prayer-meet-
ing.
The only incomplete part of the house, the flight of steps to
the front porch, was finally finished on Saturday, the 23d. And,
the kitchen also was clone.
Then, I began to prepare for the journey to Kangwe, to bring
"Mrs. Nassau to our home. I gave parting presents to Nyare and
hs wife Nyamba ; placing in their care the three young men whom
I was leaving in charge of the premises. To them, I gave food
supplies, and goods for need of purchase, and directions about
the care of the grounds, etc., for I would be away a long while
at Gaboon. I took account of my little stock of goods, for a
part of my annual report to the mission.
4i 6 MY OGOWK
On Sunday, the 24th, a down-going- canoe stopped for fire:
and I sent by it a letter to Mrs. Nassau advising her of my com-
ing. Only one Fan we was at morning service. But, I was grate-
ful to God for the degree of health He had given me in the pre-
ceding three months ; for success in building ; and, for acceptance
among the Fan we, even if they were still careless about listening
to my message. In the afternoon, a tornado storm came down
the river, with its usual sudden fall of temperature. I always
shivered before it. No one thing in Africa's conditions was
more likely to make me sick than that sudden fall in the ther-
mometer. I went to bed with a fever-chill.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
Monday, the 25th. Not at all like Christmas ! I had made all
arrangements for the journey, and, notwithstanding my sickness,
preferred the kongongo to a canoe. I was so weak that I could
but slowly gather together the usual last things. I lay on the seat
with a head-ache. At Yeiia, where the crew stopped to eat, I lay
still, and did not go ashore. The head-man and his wife came
kindly to me. and she gave me honey; but, I could cat nothing.
At Isosa. we met Laseni, and other traders and some eighteen
canoes. He handed me letters from Mrs. Nassau. Stopping
only at Ngwilaka, to debark a Faiiwe passenger, we kept on our
way to Belambla, for the night. The next day. I had the crew
do some work, to preserve the house, tarring its foundation-posts
to keep away white ants. Some Bakcle volunteered to help (and.
of course, I paid them) ; and, I hired four women to cut down
the grass and weeds. While at our noon meal in the forest near
Nenge-sika, a run-away slave came asking passage with us.
With a short stop to salute our helpful friend Mr. Ermy, we
went on our way; and were at Kangwe before sundown. Mr.
Reading had already left, for the annual meetings at Libreville.
Two French government gunboats, the Marabout and the
Basiliquc, were lying in the river. Church prayer meeting was
held at night. On Wednesday, the 27th. went with Mr. Robin-
son to make an official call on the officers of the Marabout. The
Basiliquc was gone. Called, at the new Aguma, on the 1 I. 8c
C. lmnse for my bills for the year; and at the German Otanga,
for the same. On Thursday, the 28th, the commander of the
Marabout returned our call.
On Friday, the 29th. engaged a crew for my proposed journey
to Gaboon. Went to Otanga. to have my bills rectified: on the
wav. leaving at the Marabout, a gift of vegetables from Mrs.
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 417
Reading". In the afternoon, church preparatory service. Tea at
Mrs. Reading's with Mrs. Nassau; and looking over the contents
of a box from her Jamesburg, New Jersey, friends. Joktan came,
having recovered from his small-pox. On Sunday, the 31st, I
preached in the morning; conducted monthly concert in after-
noon; and lectured in the evening.
JOURNEY TO GABOON.
As the boat-journey would be an exposed and trying one, it
was decided that Mrs. Nassau should remain at Kangwe with
Mrs. Reading.
On Monday, January 1, in the Nelly-Howard, passed down the
main stream, stopping for the noon meal at the first entrance to
Lake Onanga. Stopped at various villages. At Nandipo, en-
gaged friend Azaze to obtain me a gorilla head (for examina-
tion of its brains by my friend Thomas G. Morton, M.D., of
Philadelphia). On to Igenja, for the night.
On Tuesday, the 2d, saw the Falaba (the successor of the
Pioneer), passing up-river. Boarded it; and, opening the mail-
bag, found letters for myself; and wrote a short note to Mrs.
Nassau. The noon meal was eaten at Isagi's Ngumbe. And,
reached Nango, late at night, in darkness and rain.
On Wednesday, weather threatening, ate at Angala; and,
thence, on to the mouth of the river. I had made no arrange-
ment for the Hudson to meet me ; and would attempt the sea-
journey in the Nelly-Hozcard, though I knew that that boat was
built only for river use. At the mouth, bought food for the
crew for a possible two days at sea. Did not venture to make the
start at night. Slept on Nengie Island. But, slept poorly, be-
cause of mosquitoes. Had with me empty boxes, which I filled
with sand for ballast.
The mosquitoes were so bad that, to escape them we put out
to sea before daybreak of Thursday, the 4th, with a slight wind ;
and got on comfortably as to progress, but, with the usual nausea.
Rain all day; and, in the late afternoon, went in toward shore, to
find a safe anchorage for the night.
On Friday, the 5th, before daylight, started again, and made
slow but safe progress, until while rounding a point into the Ga-
boon River, the surf drove the boat ashore. To save it, the men
rapidly unloaded it, and then towed it around into quiet water.
We were panting with thirst and went off on to the prairie to
seek some pool of water. Then by 5 p. m. we started to row the
twelve miles across the estuary. It was 10 at night, when after
418 MY OGOWE
discharging and housing the boat, I arrived at the Baraka houses
of Rev. Mr. Campbell and of Mrs. Bushnell. My sister Isa-
bella had returned in good health from the United States with
new missionaries.
And I had pleasant talks next day with her, and with the newly
arrived Rev. A. C. Good, and Miss Harding. T had a long talk
with Mr. Good, about his probable location. I had hoped that
he would come to the Ogowe, and start a new advanced station.
But, his interests lay at Baraka, where he was, later, to marrv
Miss L. B. Walker.
After the evening service, had an unpleasant discussion with
Rev. William Walker, about his assuming control of the Gaboon
church, the while that he, as a member of the Congregationalist
body, had no connection with or authority from our Presbytery.
On the evening of Monday, the 8th. had a long talk with my
sister about her wish to locate a station at Batanga Beach. Some
years before, in an enthusiastic endorsement of my advance to-
ward the Ogowe Interior, she wrote some verses entitled. " Back
from the Coast ! " But, now, she had changed her views. While
waiting at Baraka, after her arrival from the United States, she
had gone to Batanga, had aroused the hopes of the people there
for a white missionary ("which the mission had repeatedly re-
fused, as our line of extension had officially been decided to be
through the Ogowe). And, the Batanga people had offered her
a very fine site, if she would go there. [That site is better, than
either of the two locations which our missionaries subsequently
chose; and is now occupied by a Roman Catholic mission.]
On Tuesday, the 9th. began meetings of mission, which were
continued for a week, almost every day; and at which my sister
and Miss Harding were appointed to Kangwe. And. on Wed-
nesday, the 10th. in the evening, began Presbytery meetings;
which were continued almost every evening, for a week. Except,
that on Saturday afternoon, the 13th. we adjourned, that some
of us might make an official call on the French commandant.
Sunday, the 14th. Rev. Mr. Marling preached. A steamer.
M ami in go, arrived, having a quantity of goods for Mr. Reading
and myself. He thought it a case of necessity, and landed his. I
was not willing to do such work on Sunday, and ordered mine
to remain until Monday; and landed it safely on that day. On
Tuesday, January ifi. we closed our meetings; and \ prepared
for mv return to the Ogowe.
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 419
JOURNEY BACK TO THE OGOWE.
On Thursday, the 18th, Mr. Reading- and I, with our goods,
and the two boats, Nelly-Hoivard and Evangeline (my sister's
boat), boarded the Falaba which had returned from the Ogowe.
On Friday, the 19th, we were overtaken by the French gun-
boat, Basilique. And the two vessels anchored at Angala on the
afternoon of Saturday. The commander of the gun-boat kindly
offered to take ourselves, our goods, and the boats. It was a
very great favor ; it would save us the slower travel on the Falaba.
I was not hearty in accepting, for, I believed it would involve
some Sunday work. But, Mr. Reading, at once got out our
goods from the hold of the Falaba, stowed them in the boats, and
with the two boats and our fourteen people in tow, we boarded
the Basilique, before sunrise of Sunday, the 21st. fit was not a
good arrangement, towing such heavily laden boats.) The
Falaba at once went on ; but, the gun-boat soon passed, and left it
far behind. In the afternoon, by bad steering of one of the men
in my boat, its rudder was broken : and it was impossible to be
towed until repairs were made. Y\ nich, the officer most kindly
offered to have done by his engineer, stopping his vessel for the
purpose. Again. I had to differ from Mr. Reading. After all
the courtesy of the Frenchman, I could not think of delaying him
for an hour, for the heedlessness of my employee, that might
occur again before reaching Lembarene.
Mr. Reading therefore proceeded with the gun-boat, towing
the Evangeline; and I cast off with the Nelly-Howard and my
crew, and ran ashore, to camp in the forest until the next day.
My crew were very angry at me. because they would have to
row the usual hard journey up-river, instead of being easily
towed. In the evening, they were in a better frame of mind, and
begged for permission to row me to a village a few miles dis-
tant. We went there; and I held a service. And, the next day,
repaired the rudder. And reached Kangwe. on January 25.
Mrs. Xassau had been anxious for my return. But, she agreed
with me. that if both Mr. Reading and I could not have remained
on the gun-boat, it was well that he had come in advance of me;
for, he was needed on matters of station control, with which I
had no authority.
When Miss Xassau and Miss Harding arrived at Kangwe,
Mrs. Nassau's various works of house-keeping and teaching on
the hill were divided between them. And she and I packed our
goods, etc.. for removal to Talaguga.
4^o MY OGOWE
Miss Harding', a highly-educated lady, was of negro extrac-
tion ; hut. of so slight an admixture that she was regarded as an
" European." At her own expense, she had brought her mother
with her from the United States; who was not therefore on the
mission list.
JOURNEY TO TALAGUGA.
Mrs. Nassau, writing to her Monmouth, New Jersey, Presby-
terial Woman's Foreign Missionary Society, described that jour-
ney of Wednesday, February 7: " Miss Nassau, from the home
on the hill, and Mr. and Mrs. Reading and Mr. Robinson, from
the Andende water-side, waved their farewells to Dr. Nassau's
company, as he, with his fleet of two boats and three canoes and
forty men and boys, pushed ofT on their up-river journey to Tala-
guga. The Nelly-Howard carried the doctor and wife and crew
of six men (with oars), and a heavy load of goods and baggage.
The other crafts had a full complement of paddles ; and, we
started with the feeling of strength which many hands give to
the performance of good works. The canoes carried boards
and native food, provisions for ourselves, and household furni-
ture. Mr. Reading had already taken up a large canoe filled with
foreign provisions, our food for the coming year.
" Just a few hours before our departure, news was received
that a native trader, in a fight with a Fanwe village, on the river-
side, more than half of the way up to Talaguga, had killed three
men there; that the Fanwe were greatly incensed thereby;
and that any canoe passing, would incur the danger of an
attack from them. But, our crews seemed to smother their
fear (which we knew they felt), and we had no hesitation in
starting. Happily, at the very last moment, three young men.
former pupils of the Kangwe school, asked to be taken. They
were kindly accepted.
" But, many of the crew, from near villages, wished to stop
at their homes and get guns, etc. The crew of the Nelly-Hozv-
ard were all held to their promise ; though the doctor was obliged
to land and go to their village, to hurry them from their multi-
tudinous leave-takings. Before leaving the first village, we
heard that two of the crew of one of the canoes had deserted,
fearing the Fanwe along the route. This was distressing to the
crew, who wished as many paddles as possible.
" We passed the middle of the river, and saw the principal
canoe touch the other side; and, nearly every one left the canoe.
We passed within speaking distance, and asked the cause. Three
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 421
from the crew had deserted, their mothers fearing to have their
sons go on such a perilous journey. (Those same young men,
when their inclinations lead, are not so easily restrained by their
mothers.) The leader of that canoe threw down his paddle,
saying that he would not go at all with so few men. The doc-
tor promised him two from another canoe; and we all slowly
passed on. But, the entire company were in ill-humor ; and, the
peace of the journey seemed broken. The missionaries could
only endure, and trust that He, who prepares the hearts of all
men, would so over-rule their discontent and rebellion that a
safe arrival should be secured. Also, another earnest prayer was
offered for the withholding of rain, which would not only cause
loss of goods, but great discomfort and probable danger of
health.
" We lunched in the woods about 2 p. m. In the wife's little
boat, the Swan, its three young men, instead of following the
Nelly-Howard, went their own way ; and, as the shades of night
fell around us, they were hid from view. We were troubled, as
they were in danger of running aground on the many islands in
mid-stream, and we knew they would be in great fear of the
Fafiwe along the shore. Wearily (more truthfully) our crew
pulled ; and, we were very much relieved when the lights of an
American negro trader's house shot across our bow at 9.30 p. M.
We landed (the last of the crafts) ; went ashore; and enjoyed
for the night the hospitality of our fellow-countryman, Mr.
Ermy. But, oh! the mosquitoes; and the hideous cries of the
two watchmen. Little rest, and less sleep, that night!
" Thursday, the 8th. we were again started, with a second
canoe in a semi-rebellious state. By 3 p. m., we reached Be-
lambla, and carried bedding, etc., to the little mission -house.
This house has been closed for nearly two years, and was put
under the care of a native, living near. Earnest prayer has been
made that one of the christian young men should offer to live
there, as a Bible-reader, though it be among the most superstitious
and degraded of all our tribes, the Bakele. The dusty walls and
floors were not very inviting, though we were giad of their pro-
tection from possible rain. A few Bakele came to the house to
greet us ; and, in the evening, we gathered the crews for even-
ing-prayers.
"At 6.30, the next morning (Friday) we were in our boat,
readv for a start. But, before pushing off, the missionary and
company sang a native hymn, and he offered prayer. The crews
were in good spirits, and pulled well ; and, we reached the eating-
422 MY OGOWE
place at the mouth of a little creek, by 1 1 a. m. We had our tea
and warmed tin of corn, in the boat : and started again, after a rest
of two hours. We entered upon the most dangerous part of the
journey; for, that afternoon, we were to pass the place of conflict,
so much feared.
" From the first day to this time, every village that brought us
nearer to the dreaded point, gave us new versions of the trouble,
changing the location, and reducing the number of killed, to one ;
while, one man averred that the affair was entirely settled. We
had no trouble that day, in keeping the crafts near us. Fear was
a stronger master than the white man. To increase the distress
<>f our men, we met a little steam-launch coming down-river. On
board, was an Englishman (a trader) and a Roman Catholic
priest. The latter had taken passage for the purpose of viewing
the land, having as a plan, the establishing of a mission near us.
Thus closely these adherents of the Romish See follow the foot-
steps of our mission ! The trader had promised to take him to
within a few miles of Talaguga; but, hearing of the affray, turned
back, the second day of the journey. Our men could argue.
' What can this one poor missionary do in the face of savage
Fanwe, whom this trader with his steam-launch flees from?'
" It was about 5 o'clock of a beautiful afternoon when we
reached a point where the river widened, on the opposite side
rising a high hill. Frere-volo. Majestically ft overlooked the
river below, and beautifully dressed was it with the bright greens
of the forest trees, lit up by the brilliantly setting regular f> p. \i.
sun.
" The offending village, on the top of the hill, commanded the
entire river. On the right bank, a sand-bar reached far out
into the water; and dusky forms, from the village on the hill,
were seen running to the waterside. Our own five crafts, with
two others ( strangers, who entered our company for protection
under Dr. Nassau's name), huddling more closely together, ad-
vanced into the exposed portion of the river. Our crew kept
telling the doctor that there was a sand-bar in our way at the
right. But, he knew differently. What their fears said : " (inns
arc! guns there! " would have been more truthful. All kept in
mid-stream, until directly opposite the village, and then turned
toward it. and hugged closely the base of the hill." [There was
the shortest and easiest channel. But. to the crews, it did seem
as if I was deliberately leading them into danger. Perhaps the
apparent audacity of my maneuver may have checked the Fariwe,
if thev reallv had anv intention to attack.] " The Xclly-Hoz^ard
IN CAMP AT TALAGUGA 423
passed near the sand-bar, and we were greeted kindly by the
staring- Fan we, though we did not think it best to stop. After
we had turned into a bend of the river which hid those people
from us, we found that one canoe was missing". Turning back,
we met it opposite to the village, and escorted it safely past the
danger its crew feared.
" This point past, the crews were greatly relieved, and cheerily
brought the crafts, before dark, to the place on the edge of the
forest, where we were to stay all night. As we landed, one
young man said, ' Ah ! yes, we passed safely because Dr. Nassau
was with us.' We thankfully said we passed safely; saw rain
falling on all sides, but not touching us. We passed un-wet ;
only felt the accompanying wind ; and realized that our crews
were becoming more and more quiet and obedient, because God
was ivith us. Our camp mats and bedding were laid in the boat.
Just as we were ready for sleep, the sound of coming wind and
rain was heard. We still prayed, though we knew the rain must
come. So it did ; but, not enough to in the least incommode us.
" Before day-break of Saturday, the 10th, most of our crafts
were off, though we heard some of the crews protesting because
of the threatening tornado. By 6 a, m. we were starting. The
sun was clouded all day, but we felt no storm. One more meal
in the forest; and, before 3 p. m., our entire company touched
the shore of Talaguga, within a few minutes of each other, and
great shouts of rejoicing on the part of the crews, and welcomes.
Never have we passed four consecutive days wherein God's pro-
tecting hand was more visibly seen."
CHAPTER XXIII
IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE,
FEBRUARY, 1883-DECEMBER, 1 883
MRS. NASSAU and I were in our hill-side home. On the
following Wednesday, February 14, Mr. Robinson
came, with a load of furniture. And, on Friday, the
23d, my best native, Mamba. (then, foreman in Mr. Reading's
employ) came with two crafts laden with goods. And, he re-
mained a week cutting logs (of which Talaguga had a fine
variety) for a large new frame house that Mr. Reading planned
to build at Andende.
When Mamba left on March 2, Londo and Mburu, who had
come with me on a promise to remain several months, deserted.
That left me short-handed, having only 3 Galwas, 1 Fanwe, and
an Accra coast-man, William, as cook. Nevertheless, I went,
for the Saturday afternoon visitation, with Mrs. Nassau, and
held a meeting at Ndona-ma-vuna's.
On Sunday, March 4, Nyare's son, Mveli, came at Sabbath
school. He was very thin, and his ulcers were worse. Heard
that the " palaver " of the wife-murderer, Nyene, was being
talked in Nyare's village. And, the man was one of my work-
men! I could obtain so few, that I had to accept even a crim-
inal.
On Sunday, the nth, Laseni and his wife Alida and some of
his people came to services. Also, Nyare and some of his peo-
ple. Just as we were at tea, there stopped at the landing to
bring us a mail, a French expedition, consisting of Lieut. Mizon ;
Mons. Rigail de Lestour, a civil engineer; Mons. Jacques de
Brazza, brother of the Count, a scientific man; and Mons.
Michaud, an engineer. They took tea with us; Mrs. Nassau
being troubled, not for any lack of food, but only for the small-
ness of the table. They were accompanied by their two big dogs,
which our little "Rover" (whom I had added to our house-
hold) small as he was, wished to fight. The gentlemen left
early in the evening, and slept at the waterside with their 14
4-'4
IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE 425
canoes and 190 men. The view of their lights and camp-fires
from our hill-side, reminded us of the lights of a little town.
On Monday, the 12th, I rose early, and went to the waterside
to bid the four gentlemen good-by at their starting. It was
an exhilarating sight, that large flotilla of canoes! Mrs. Nas-
sau and I had a delightful re-reading of our large mail. I ob-
tained the four quarters of a gazelle on Wednesday, the 14th,
and gave the employees a feast. Mveli's ulcers were so bad that
he came to remain at my house, for daily treatment. After
their day's work, I allowed my people to go for the evening to
Laseni's, who had established himself near us about a mile down-
river. I was pleased to have his gentlemanly society; and his
company would make my employees feel less lonely. My lonely
isolation had been one of the objections to service with me.
In the evening, I read to Mrs. Nassau, from Stanley's " Dark
Continent." Mrs. Nassau was affected, as I always was, by the
sudden reduction of temperature preceding a tornado storm.
On Thursday, the 15th, she had to go to bed, with fever chills.
I laid aside all outdoor work, and remained with her, arranging
papers, and attending to her medicines.
The next day, she was convalescing. Alida, Laseni's wife
came to see her, and spent the day. Mveli's mother, with her
trust in superstitious " medicines," was interfering with my
medication of him ; and, I allowed him to spend his nights with
her. I conducted a Friday evening inquiry class ; the members
knew their lesson well.
On Sunday, the 18th, Mrs. Nassau was still feverish, and
could not assist in the day's services. I was annoyed by a num-
ber of worldly visits. Early in the morning, before prayers, one
of the new Fanwe workmen came to explain why he had not
been at work on Saturday, and wished to make up for it on
Sunday. Then, some of Njagu-demba's people came to sell
plantains ; much as I needed them, and as much as I wished to
encourage a market, I could not buy. Then, came a little Fanwe,
to sell a fowl, supposing that in my great desire for fowls for
Mrs. Nassau, I would make an exception to the Sunday rule.
Then, Agon jo came to pay me part of his bamboo debt. Much
as I needed it, I would not permit him even to land the load from
his canoe. So, he stayed over until Monday. Then, Laseni's
people, on their way up to Okota, stopped to beg for soap.
After Mrs. Nassau's recovery on the 20th, I was sick for sev-
eral days.
In the afternoon of Thursday, the 29th, just after work time,
426 MY OGOWE
there was an alarm at the waterside, that, Fanwe from up-river,
had come to attack the workmen's house. One of my men,
Ompwenge, seized a gun, and stood his ground ; two others fled
up the hill to me; with a fourth, Njambi, I came down with our
guns. Though his gun was empty, Njambi bravely pointed it at
the strangers. But, it was all a mistake. On inquiry, I found
that the party were friendly; and explanations were made.
During April, some additions to the house, such as shelves,
etc., were completed. Our little house was safe, and, in a de-
gree, comfortable, especially* to me, after my long pioneering.
And, Mrs. Nassau bravely adjusted herself fo its simplicity.
Writing to a friend in the United States, she said, " We, the
husband and self, are comfortably settled in our little bamboo
cottage. . . . How I long sometimes for the home- friends, that
they might see my African home. We have three rooms, small
and crowded ; but, our combined bedroom and parlor is really
pretty. Our new bedroom set, of light ash, stands out in charm-
ing relief, against the dark bamboo walls. A sewing-machine,
writing-desk, and two trunks fill up all available space. A cup-
board in one corner, for our wearing apparel ; three-cornered
shelves in another, for books. A narrow tier of shelves on one
side of the room, for books also, does not add to the beauty of the
room (all being made of packing boxes, with sides rudely planed,
and with original nail holes very apparent) but, they add to our
comfort. My one disappointment about the house is, there is
no ' prophet's chamber.' I had hoped to have Mrs. Reading's
company, for a little while at least. Now. after her recovery
from a severe sickness, and her visit to Gaboon, I am not so
sure of the fulfillment of hopes."
A young christian woman, wife of one of my Galwa work-
men, had come to Talaguga with her husband. She was some
company, but not much assistance to Mrs. Nassau. To relieve
Mrs. Nassau of manual labor in our household, I had obtained,
from one of the ocean-steamers, a civilized coast-man of Accra.
His experience as a ship-steward had made him a good cook.
I le could prepare a dinner rapidly, attractively, and without
assistance or direction. We had retained him, notwithstanding
his intemperance.
1 had some errands down-river, and, on Friday, the 13th, I
took Mrs. Nassau with me, using, not her pretty little Swan,
but, the kongongo. Of that trip, she wrote: 'The day was
an eventful one in our lives. Nothing less than a river-journey
IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE 427
to a town eight miles below. . . . This is the first time I have
ever ridden any distance in a native dug-out: but, I found it
very pleasant, had it not been for the cramped unnatural posi-
tion I was obliged to take. The craft was 35 feet long by 3
feet in width. The husband took the rudder, and, in front of
him was a little deck 2.y 2 feet x 4 feet. On this platform, i
sat. Turk fashion. But, the length was cut off to 3 feet, by the
presence of two paddlers on the forward end of said deck. I
relieved myself by, at times, reclining; and, the husband's knees
supplied the need of a back. Eight paddlers composed the
crew. . . . Three of the terrible Fanwe complete the crew.
One is principal in a ' palaver ' of his village, the disturbing
cause being the murder of his wife; and lie is the murderer.
Without doubt, the man will escape, by paying a very small
fine; for, the woman he killed was only his wife! He owned
her ; had he not a right to do with his property as he pleased !
. . . Another of the Fanwe has been a great comfort to us, and
is the most, and nearly the only one who has been willing to
work steadily at the station. . . . When the husband first tried
to employ the Fahwe, they would come an hour or so late. . . .
Now, they are regular in their hours, trust the missionary as to
their pay, and work as faithfully as the African negroes gen-
erally do."
I left Airs. Nassau in one of the villages (where she was a
great curiosity ; as, equally, the trees, huts, men, women, and
children, and their occupations, were to her) while I went on
down to Yena. And, returned with her later.
Nyamba came on Tuesday, the 17th, and I gave her a gift.
She told me a strange story of Nyare, who was sick. He had
a dream, and heard a spirit saying, " Give me Nyare." There-
fore, he changed his name to " Ndamina," so that when death
came to seek Nyare, he shall not be found! (Nevertheless, I
continued to call him, Nyare.)
Two traders, Messrs. Rene and Gibson, with eight canoes,
came up-river on the 19th, bringing letters from Kangwe; and
they spent the morning with us. Their crews were very noisy
and rebellious ; and Air. Rene fell into the water. The contagion
of disorder extended to my people, and they seemed to work
with divided thought in the afternoon. A woman came from
Ndona-ma-vuna's on the 20th, to see Airs. Nassau, and made a
strange conversation; that her menses were irregular, and she
wanted medicine to regulate them, in order that she might have
children ; that she had had two children, but that both had died
428 MY OGOWE
while they were only creeping; that " Njambi-Creator " had
taken them. I pitied the unsatisfied mother-love.
The month of May was a very trying one; Dr. Bacheler, in
leaving the mission, wrote some very unjust statements against
me (not to me, but) to members of the Mission and the Board.
And, Secretary Lowrie gave me a very unsatisfactory reply to
my appeal for redress. There were some anxieties about one of
my son's funds in the United States, on an outrageous claim by
one of his mother's relatives. There were obstructions on the
part of the French, about giving a permit to build at Talaguga.
There was great difficulty in getting food supplies and workmen.
All these things so distressed me, that, for two months, I lost
interest in affairs, and made no entries in my diary. I regret
that I so failed. For, there were important facts as to the com-
ing of an expedition under De Brazza, and the encroachments
of the Commandant at Libreville on the work of our Ogowe
mission-stations.
It is only from Mrs. Nassau's diary that I obtain dates of
certain events during those months. Under date of May 8,
Mrs. Nassau notes : " Commands from the French govern-
ment that we are to close all ' stations,' outside of Kangwe and
Talaguga. Also, not to teach or preach in English, or even in
Mpongwe ; only in French." Those French government edicts
were only a part of a program of Roman Catholic persecution
of our Protestant missions, of which we had already felt signs,
and were yet to feel greater effects, which, eight years later,
drove the mission from our (then) best field, the Ogowe. There
would have been no reason for our departure, if France had
been as wise at that time to emancipate herself from Papal dom-
ination, as she finally became, twenty years later. The " sta-
tions " indicated, were only little village school-houses, where
native evangelists had been sent; even against these, Romanism
raised its hand. And, yet, some of our Protestant friends in
the United States, in strange blindness and mistaken liberality,
wrote of these Roman Catholic priests, as our " christian broth-
ers " ; and suggested " comity " ! I did not comply with the
order not to preach in the native languages. And Mrs. Nassau
(and my sister) continued to teach both in English and native
to a limited extent; an official reply to an inquiry, as to what
constituted a "school," being, "any aggregation of pupils over
the number five."
" Thursday, May 10. We heard that the French had occu-
pied Njoli Island (two miles up-river from Talaguga) and, when
IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE 429
I saw a white man at our beach, I thought that the French had
come. It proved to be a German trader, Mr. Rene. He came
and took tea with us. . . . We were all excited, because of the
French. Mr. Sinclair's trader was not allowed to locate in the
Fanwe villages near Njoli. Mr. Rene's canoes were stopped,
and searched for guns."
" Saturday, May 12. Husband went to Njoli Island, to call
on the Frenchmen. Found them beyond Njoli. Met pleasantly
by them." They had actually landed on and inspected Njoli;
but, had gone on farther, and definitely located at Asange Island ;
which, however, is, to this day, mis-called, " Njoli Post."
" Monday, May 14. About 9 a. m. came the French gentle-
men, Messieurs Lieuts. Michelez and Montaignac. Lieut. Mizon
also called ; but, only at the water-side, as he was not well, and
was on his way down-river to Gaboon and to France. The gen-
tlemen were very pleasant. Spoke English well, particularly
Montaignac. . . . We must learn French. I have made special
prayer that I may be able to learn these. Mpongwe, Fanwe,
French. This afternoon, a Mpongwe trader has come to
Nyare's town ; brought rum. We hear their drunken songs this
first night."
From her first coming to Talaguga, Mrs. Nassau had a zeal
to carry the Gospel beyond. We saw Roman Catholic priests
carried into the Interior by the government canoes. I asked no
such favor; but, both Mrs. Nassau and I planned to travel far
up-river, over my route of 18 months previous, during the
cool dry season (June-August), safe from rains. She made
herself a short-skirted dress for convenience in canoe-travel.
I knew that trading, by other than the French, was forbidden
beyond Njoli Post. But, I had no idea that preaching would
be. when I applied for permit to travel, to the local commandant
("Governor") Victor de Kerraoul, at the post. He refused
it: said that none but French might pass, for any purpose what-
ever. I appealed, by letter, to his superior. Count de Brazza.
Kind permission, and explanation that Kerraoul was mistaken,
and that the prohibition was only against traders, came from
De Brazza just a year later. It was then too late. I am pleased
to record that M. Kerraoul was the only French official with
whom I had intercourse other than pleasant. Moreover, I be-
lieve, that whatever was unpleasant in the government's deal-
ings with me and our mission, was directly due to Roman Cath-
olic mis-statement and intrigue.
" Sunday. June 3. One of the most perfect days of rest and
430 MY OGOWE
quiet we have known here. Nyare and Nyamba call. Doctor
talked to them. A company of strangers passed up from their
town, and stuck on a log, and broke their canoe. Nyare said
he told them not to go, because it was the Sabbath ! Just as the
peaceful day closed, and we were kneeling in prayer, a noisy
crowd of drunken fellows passed. Contrast! Such noise from
the towns was unknown before the rum came."
Mrs. Nassau was rejoiced by a week's visit of Mr. and Mrs.
Reading and their little daughter Elizabeth. And, on Wednes-
day. June 13, we all made an official call on the French station
of " Njoli." " We met ' Gov.' Kerraoul, an army officer, De
Brazza, and others. . . . Mr. Reading and I look up a site for
a house nearer the waterside." It had become apparent that
the location on Talaguga hillside was open to the same objec-
tion to the Kangwe hilltop. Climbing the hill was too much
exertion for most persons. It was decided that the permanent
Talaguga house should be built by the water-side, a few hun-
dred feet across the brook, on the east side, opposite to the orig-
inal hut (which was now the workmen's dormitory).
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
Leaving the premises in charge of four young men. Mrs. Nas-
sau and I in the boat, and accompanied by my canoe, on Tues-
day. June 26. we went down-river to attend the quarterly com-
munion at Kangwe. Slept at Njagu-demba's. And. next day.
stopped at Belambla, to put its grounds in order. Reached
Kangwe that evening. I assisted the minister in charge. Rev.
W. H. Robinson, at the Saturday preparatory; and. at the Sun-
day, July 1, communion service. A woman and two young men
were baptized. (One of the latter. Yongwe. grew, later, into
the eldership and the native ministry.) On the Monday, Elder
Nguva was married to little Onivi. I thought her entirely too
young for marriage.
My visits to Kangwe were generally followed by desertions
by my crew. Their constant complaint was the uncertainty of
food at Talaguga. (The same was true of the traders' em-
ployees: but. in their case, the employees accepted the situation,
for their work was not a daily grind, as mine was.) My stay
at Kangwe. therefore, was not restful. I had to go down-river
to Wombalva, to search for new workmen. On the way, I
stopped and watched in the forest the process of enclosing, by
some Fan we, of some five elephants, in a corral. (A work-
such as I had assisted at. at the risk of my life, in 1879.)
IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE 431
On my return to Kangwe, having obtained a carpenter. A-
nkombie, and a very weak lad, Re-Mbili, I took, on Thursday,
the 5th, Mrs. Nassau, my sister, and Miss Harding, to see the ele-
phants and the corral. On the way, we had a dangerously ex-
citing experience with the boat in the Degeliye Rapids of a
side-stream (not far from Kangwe) of whose existence I had
known, but had not really been aware that it was an effluent and
not an affluent, nor how near the rapids were until the boat was
drawn into them. On our return from the excursion, a mail
was handed us, telling of the death of Mrs. Nassau's sister-in-
law, Mrs. Julius Foster. With her heart sore for her brother,
she began the packing of our goods for the furnishing of our
Talaguga cottage, while I was busy purchasing supplies at the
trading-houses. Awaiting at Andende. to accompany us up-
river, was Mr. Menkel, the mission-mechanic, whom I had in-
vited to relieve me of the labor of gathering from the forest
material for the proposed new framed house, so that I might
be free for my evangelistic work. With him, was his mother-
less little mulatto boy, Alek. who was to become a new care to
Mrs. Nassau.
RETURN TO THE COTTAGE.
When, on Tuesday, July 10. the heavily-laden Kelly-Howard
was finally ready for our return journey to Talaguga, I was.
as usual, hampered by desertions. My Galwa crews, who
brought me down, with promise to return with me, found the
abundant food of their homes and the attractions of their vil-
lages too strong. Some would always fail at literally the last
moment : and. I had to get a loan of men from Mr. Reading,
just for the trip, or pick up some incompetent idler at villages
on the way. This, for years, was a distressing feature of my
work at Talaguga. The difficulty with these employees was not
any personal feeling against myself, or their tasks, or their
wages ; but, solely the impossibility of obtaining regularly from
the Fariwe of Talaguga sufficient variety or even quantity of
food. My friends Messrs. Reading and Robinson kindly aided
me by forwarding native supplies from the abundance obtain-
able in Kangwe region : and. they loyally supported me by re-
fusing employment to any who deserted me. Among the de-
serters was cook William. He had no cause of complaint on
the food question. My bargain with him covered more rice
than he could eat daily, and. he had the same meats that I ate.
On the way during the morning, the boat was struck by a
432 MY OGOWE
hippopotamus biting 1 through the keel. As the animal rose under
us, it lifted out of the water the entire stern of the boat, where
were sitting Mrs. Nassau and myself, Mr. Menkel and his child,
and two native girls. Near us also was the large heavy box
containing Mrs. Nassau's parlor-organ. And. besides the other
eight souls in the boat, there was a heavy load of food-supplies,
hardware, and building-materials. Note. [T have described
this adventure in full, in " In an Elephant Corral," Neale: 1912.]
After a tryingly slow journey, we readied Talaguga on Friday,
the 13th.
Mrs. Nassau makes a record on Saturday, the 14th. " Busy
putting things to rights. Mr. Menkel and son with iron bed-
stead in the dining-room. Husband bargains with Njambi as
cook ; but, first he leaves for a two-months' vacation. T go to
the kitchen, with Ogeningo and Re-Mbili's help." This was
the beginning of a long year's trial with unwilling and incom-
petent kitchen aid, than which, my constant efforts were unable
to obtain better. Occasionally Mrs. Reading sent a temporary
loan of one of her servants. But. as they came only under com-
pulsion. T did not like to retain them.
On Saturday, the 21st, Elder Nguva came from Kangwe.
with a mixed crew of Kru-men and Galwas. sent by Mr. Read-
ing, to help me for a week, in dragging logs. Mr. Menkel had.
unnecessarily, brought with him a personal servant, whose pres-
ence was a cause of friction. Himself, who came as my assist-
ant, demanded to be placed in unqualified control of the new
building operations and of the workmen. To hasten the work,
in order to obtain a better house for Mrs. Nassau. I yielded.
And, yet. so violently irascible was he that the workmen, whom
I had obtained with so much difficulty, declined to obey him.
One after another he dismissed them: and. I could obtain no
others. His boarding and laundry were also additional burdens.
On Saturdav. the 28th. T went across the brook, with Mrs.
Nassau, to locate the site of what we hoped would be her house.
T took Nyare there also, to ask him about the price of a garden
of his, near-by. which T wished to purchase. Mrs. Nassau re-
turned to the cottage to play her organ for a large company of
Fan we. That organ-playing was a constant delight. Tt was a
religious exercise for the frequent companies of visitors. The
music drew their attention: and. then, she followed, through an
interpreter, with the Gospel story. It was a " sowing by all
waters." that gratified her desire for direct missionary work.
On Monday, the 30th. Laseni kindly sent six of his men to
IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE 433
work for me for the day, at clearing of the new site. But, I
was not quite ready for them, not having positively fixed on it.
I butchered a goat; and sent one quarter to Laseni, and two
quarters to Mons. Kerraoul at " Njoli Post." When my mes-
senger returned, he brought a letter from the " Governor " prom-
ising to give me a permit of residence and for house-building.
Wednesday, August 1, was a very busy and varied day.
Nyare and his wife Nyamba came to see about the price of her
garden that adjoined the proposed site for our new house. A
long and diplomatic bargaining. Which resulted in my paying
Nyare, one cap-gun $15.00, one wooden chest $2.00, one shirt
$2.00, one axe $5.00. And to his wife, one iron-pot $3.00, brass
leg-rings $1.00, cloth $1.00, chain $1.00. All making $30.00
(Fan we trade). A canoe of Gal was passed up, with thatch for
the French buildings at the Post.
On Monday, the 6th, I went down-river in the Swan to Yena,
with six Fanwe paddlers, to make arrangements with the
Mpongwe trader opposite there, Ongamu, that he should hire
Bakele to make thatch for the new house. This was much in
advance of its erection; but, I needed thousands of pieces; and
the accumulation would be slow. As a trader, he could bar-
gain better than I ; and, I was quite willing to pay him a com-
mission, and thus escape a work that was distasteful to me.
It was wonderful, the changes that had come into the river,
in less than two years ! Then, I was the only white man in
that portion of it, and there were but few native traders. Now,
there was a government military post, a chain of white traders'
houses, and connecting links of scores of native subordinates.
On Tuesday, the 7th, Laseni again sent four of his people to
assist me. A Fahwe woman came to complain of my goats
eating on her garden. Her complaint was just. But, I knew
perfectly well that, in the villages, goats browsed on all gardens,
and no complaints were made. This woman's action was based
on the knowledge that, from the rich (?) white man she could
collect damages. While I was considering, I saw Nyamba plant-
ing on the ground I had recently purchased from her, and, she
was claiming that the ground was still hers, not mine. I was
surprised; for, she was an unusually noble native. I told her that
I would pluck up anything she planted there. Afterward, Nyare
followed me ; and, we had a plain talk, in which he distinctly
said that the ground was mine. Also, that, even if my goats
trespassed on the gardens, he did not wish me to send them
away, but that he would accept compensation out of a part of
434 MY OGOWE
the increase of the kids. And, the two difficulties were appar-
ently settled. A week later, Nyamba brought me plantains, as
a peace-offering.
On Friday, the 24th. Mrs. Nassau records : " Nyare and
Ndona-ma-vuna and some twenty men came before breakfast
(two Mpongwe traders also) to ask doctor's help in a 'pala-
ver ' with the French. The latter had shot into a canoe be-
longing to Nyare. killed one man. and seized the goods belong-
ing to the traders. They did not know, for what reason.
Husband consented to go. He went in the Szvan. Nyare's
fiery speech. Just after they had gone, the Gov. Kerraoul
came ; and. also a canoe from Andende, telling of Mrs. Read-
ing's illness. She had been blind for twenty-four hours (a
symptom considered almost always fatal) : but, she was a little
better. . . . Felt very much the shock, and the sorrow, and the
pain, and the suspense. Wanted to go down to her right away.
" Gov. Kerraoul was distressed because of the ' palaver ' ; the
cause was the firing of a gun in order to stop the Fanwe. All
the traders' things restored to them. Nyare much pleased.
But. we hear that the Benayel clan, to which the dead man be-
longed, say that nothing but blood will satisfy them; and
threaten to fire on any white man's canoe."
On Saturday, the 25th, T went to the villages, to engage men
for a journey to Mrs. Reading.
JOURNEY TO ANDENDE.
On Monday, August 27. in a large canoe. T went to Kangwe,
with a crew of ten men: the object being simply haste to be of
any possible medical aid to Mrs. Reading, and not with the ex-
pectation of stopping on the way or delay in returning with
any load of goods.
A week later, on Tuesday. September 4. at 1 1 r. m.. T dis-
charged my Winchester, as I approached Talaguga. that Mrs.
Xassau might know 1 was arriving. ( It was my usual night
signal: its report was entirely different from 'ha! of the " trade "
guns of the natives.) 1 brought her the good news of Mr*;.
Reading's life. Although Mr. Reading had with him Mr. Rob-
inson. Miss Xassau. Miss Harding, and an educated Mpongwe
woman. Julia, nurse of little Flizabeth, in her anxiety to be of
any aid to the only woman who had given her unqualified friend-
ship and sympathy, Mrs. Nassau insisted on going to Andende.
With her. I started three days later. Friday, the 7th. in the Swan.
We would have gone sooner, had I been able to obtain a crew.
IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE 435
and had Mr. Menkel been willing - to remain alone. On his
finally consenting, we started with only two Fan we; just at the
last moment, two others stepped in. We slept that night at
Belambla. Resuming the journey next day, we met two trad-
ing-canoes, each led by a white man (an English and a German),
when we were only fifteen miles from Kangwe. They handed
us letters which told us that Mr. and Mrs. Reading had gone to
Libreville, to seek a steamer to England and the United States.
[She did not return; and never entirely recovered her sight.]
So, we turned the boat back ; rested over Sunday at Belambla ;
and reached Talaguga on the evening of Tuesday, the nth.
On the way back, Mrs. Nassau had a trying experience. Dur-
ing the whole route, going and returning, we w r ere in constant
anxiety, not for ourselves, nor even for our crew. But, Fanwe
were not used to long steady work at the paddles ; they needed
constant urging. Also, the recent killing by the French had
made all the tribes excited; and, the Fanwe clans were not at
peace even with themselves. For our white selves, we would
have stopped in any clan and at any village, as our convenience
dictated. But, again and again, some one or other of the four
would object, saying that it was not safe for him to be seen at
such-or-such a village. So, for our noon lunch on that Tues-
day, we had stopped at the shaded mouth of a creek on the left
bank, a large village on the opposite side of the broad Ogowe.
but none near us on our side. During our rest, a canoe had
come from that other side ; but, we did not encourage its
presence: and it went away. (One of our company afterwards
said that its occupants had not spoken well of our crew.) After
our meal, Mrs. Nassau went alone to a quiet spot across the
creek, with her Bible and other books for reading and prayer.
When I called her to resume the journey, she hastily took up
her shawl and other articles, but forgot the books. We had
gone some two miles, when she discovered her loss. Her Bible
was a precious souvenir. Against the anger of the crew at the
additional time, extra work, and apparent return to a dangerous
neighborhood, I turned the boat back. Annoyed at the slow
progress, I put the boat ashore, and ran down the bank alone,
Mrs. Nassau following slowly in the boat. While I was away,
voices called to her across the stream from a canoe. She, not
understanding what they said, had to use almost force to compel
the crew to be silent and keep at their paddles. When I arrived
at the nooning spot, the book was gone ! I returned with the
distressing news to my wife, who was then in tears. As I re-
436 MY OGOWE
sumed the tiller-ropes, that canoe was observed, apparently in
pursuit of us. I had no fear; but, the crew were in terror.
When we were overtaken, the canoe-men handed me the precious
Bible ! They said that they had returned to our nooning place
out of curiosity ; had found the books ; and had called to the
boat to wait for them. But, their kindness had been misunder-
stood. I rewarded them liberally. But, the whole affair had
been very distressing.
By this time, I had succeeded in getting better household aids ;
and, Mrs. Nassau's actual manual labors were lessened by two
new young men. civilized Galwas, to whom she gave daily les-
sons ; thus gratifying her special tastes, of what had been her
intended lifework as a teacher.
Mr. Menkel with his little son, left on Friday. September 21,
saying that he would return and build the house six months later.
Tt was well. Mrs. Nassau had spent much care on the mother-
less boy. But, the situation was anomalous. She was given
no authority; yet she was expected to control the child. And,
her views of child-training could never have coincided with the
father's. As to the preparations for the building of the new
station-dwelling, the crisis had become extreme. I could do
nothing, the while that my visitor demanded unqualified control
of my workmen, who resented his methods, and who, rather than
submit to them, were constantly deserting me. Precious months
had been lost, the dry season weather of June September (which
is not obstructed by rainy days) ; I had lost otherwise willing
workmen: Mrs. Nassau's irenic spirit had l>een grieved: and I
knew that, for the simple work of felling trees and squaring logs
for sills and sleepers, etc., T was quite competent. Mr. Menkel
offered to return and do the actual carpenter work of the house-
erection. The parting was amicable. [And, yet. twenty years
later, when T was under fire during the visit of inspection of a
board secretary. I was asked about my " quarrels with Mr. Men-
kel "! / never quarreled with him; but for twenty-five years I
had patiently borne his insane outbursts of anger."]
On Wednesday, October 3. Mrs. Nassau wrote: "Lieut.
Montaignac called, on his way to Gaboon, with despatches, etc..
to act as deputy, in surveying points along the coast. He was
very kind and gentlemanly. He gave me two native knives, a
fetish, and other things. We gave him coffee, and sent witli
him a few tins of food."'
I celebrated the second anniversary of our marriage, by hand-
ing Mrs. Nassau the following verses:
IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE 437
One little space of golden time,
A few short words low-spoken,
A vow engraved on Hand sublime
Too strongly to be broken :
A rose, and fair white-petaled flowers,
And veil o'er maiden's blush,
And beat of hearts through hurried hours,
That joined our hope's high flush :
This day brings back that space of gold,
What need those words to say ?
Or rose to bind ? Or veil unfold ?
Those hearts are far away !
These all for memory. Their youth
Is ours to claim no longer.
But, what they meant, the love, the truth,
Grows, Darling, brighter, stronger.
She responded, by making a special feast, to commemorate
both my birthday the nth and our sailing-day the 12th. To
this feast were invited Laseni and Alida.
The Fanwe were beginning to recognize my Sunday services,
and came with more or less regularity. On the 14th, some
thirty gathered on the open porch, where I held the meeting.
I was able to talk a little without an interpreter; in which fact
Mrs. Nassau took much satisfaction.
On Wednesday, the 17th, in the afternoon were heard signal-
shots and the heavy beatings of steamer paddles against the
swift current. I went to Nyare's ; and found there at anchor a
new steamer, the Okota, better equipped than any that had as
yet appeared on the Ogowe, with its agent, Mr. Scruff, and a
French Roman Catholic priest, and three other white men. The
captain brought us a very large mail, including, among other
things, thirty-eight letters and forty papers. In the evening,
the five men called. The priest appeared to be very polite and
very conversational, even sympathetic against the Gaboon com-
mandant and " Gov." Kerraoul. But, with our knowledge of
Papal duplicity, we discounted his professions of friendship.
Among the other blessings that the Okota brought, was a new
and more reliable cook, Njambi.
On Saturday, the 20th, I was shocked by being asked by a
native whether a certain Fanwe woman " was the one that
Ndamina (Xyare) had given me for wife." It was true that.
438 MY OGOWE
as a part of native hospitality, village chiefs offered to a guest
a woman for the night. And. if the visitor remained perma-
nently, as traders, the woman became his, until he should leave.
Almost all the native traders, and some white ones, availed
themselves of this custom. It was true, also, that both Mamyaga
and Nyare had made the offer to me on my first arrival at
Talaguga. But, it was never repeated. I was pained at the
thought that, with all my preaching against polygamy, any native
at that late day could think that secretly I was practicing it!
I met Nyamba coming from her garden, and she told me that
Xyare wished to remove her as " head-wife," and place one of
his younger women in that position. On October 23, she came
bringing a present of plantains, and told how people up the
river where she had traveled had begged her for her ornaments,
saying to her, that " Nasa would give her more instead of them."
(A polite suggestion that I should do so.)
On Saturday. November 3, Mrs. Nassau and I had an earnest
conversation and made many plans about work to be done in the
Interior. For, my persistent desire was to go there. I still
looked on the location at Talaguga. as I had done from the first,
as only a stepping-stone, a camping-place on the way.
Though no Fan we expressed any personal interest in religion,
it was a joy that our Galwas occasionally did. One of them,
Alundo, on Sunday, the 4th, asked to join the inquiry class. 1
might have had a church-organization at Talaguga, but, I did
not attempt one, for three reasons: (1) As in the case of the
first Ogowe converts and the " bishopric " of Rev. Dr. Bushnell
at Gaboon, I held the same ecclesiastical courtesy to Rev. \Y.
1 1. Robinson at Kangwe. (2) 1 would therefore wait until there
should be Fanwe converts, from the Talagug'a vicinity. (3) I
thought of no church-organization at Talaguga, as long as 1
looked on it as only a way-station. (I think now that 1 erred.
A church organization would have made Christianity more obvi-
ous, and might have impressed the Fail we earlier.)
The man Xyare, of whom I had bought the Talaguga prem-
ises, and whose village lay nearest, less than quarter of a mile
down-river on the same side, had become an uncomfortable
neighbor. Naturally of a quarrelsome and domineering nature,
he seemed to have misunderstood my quiet demeanor. lie be-
came exacting in demands, and acted offensively in a police-like
inspection of all canoes that came to visit me. Canoes going
up-river had hard work forcing their way past a swift current
in front of his village. He thus had a clear opportunity to ob-
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IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE 439
serve who the crews were, and what their canoes contained.
They, after reaching the quieter water at the mouth of my
mountain-brook, liked to rest, eat their lunch, and sell or buy
with me. Also, I valued the opportunity to preach to them.
If I could not go everywhere, it was my interest to attract
people to me. But. Nyare acted in a piratical way, demanding
fine or tribute of these canoes, if he could make any sort of
claim for debt or due from the clan or tribe of even any per-
sonally innocent member of the visiting crew. I had often pro-
tested against his making these demands on my premises. Na-
tive custom made those travelers my " guests " ; and universal
oriental law required every host to protect any guest (even a
guilty one) at any cost. Neighboring tribes began to cease to
stop at my place, fearing Nyare's demands. My influence was
being circumscribed. There came a day when I threw aside the
quiet pacific role, and asserted myself and the mission's right.
Tuesday, November 6. That was the day. An eventful day !
In the afternoon, two canoes with about a dozen men from
Njagu-demba's Ngwilaka town, came to sell me plantains; and
some of them remained to talk at the cottage. About 5 p. m.,
Nyare, followed by thirteen of his people, all of them armed
with guns and other weapons, came on my grounds and began
to quarrel with the strangers at the water-side. I snatched up
my Winchester, and hasting down the hill, pushed him aside and
ordered him away. He tusseled with me ; and with my gun-
barrel I struck him on the breast and head. He became rag-
ingly angry, and tried to fire his gun at me. Several of his own
men took away his gun and dragged him off; and two of them
(in a friendly way, I felt) seized me and my rifle. Then. Nyare
tried to stab me with his dagger. That also his people took
from him. Then, he sought for sticks to throw at me.
During all this contest, the strangers stood silent, making' no
effort to assist the white man who was fighting for them. They
actually yielded to Xyare's demand for tribute, and gave him
a gun. But, one of his men snatched it away and returned it
to them, saying that a mistake had been made in coming on my
grounds, and that they would make their demand at another time
when they should meet the canoe on the river. Suddenly, a
little boy of our household handed me a note from Mrs. Nassau
advising me to appeal to the French. I looked around ; she was
standing near. I had not known that either she or the lad were
there. She had followed me down the hill ; but bravely had
kept quiet, and had not weakened me by interference. I went
440 MY OGOWE
with her up the hill to get the boat-key. When I returned they
turned one by one and left. The whole affair had occupied a
full hour. That evening, the usual prayer-meeting was held ;
and, I felt special thanks for protection from the greatest dan-
ger I had experienced since my coming to Talaguga. Some of
the visitors were present during the evening. Instead of thank-
ing me for exposing my life in their behalf, they were begging
me for small gifts!
The next day, I went to the Post and represented matters to
M. de Kerraoul, who offered to give me soldiers at once, if
I wished to burn Xyare's village; or, would send me aid at any
future time. (Of course, I did not wish to burn the village.)
On returning, I found that but few people had come to the cot-
tage during my absence, and that among them, Xdona-ma-vuna
had said that if French soldiers came, he would not help Xyare
against them. [Note. I wrote a detailed account of this affair
in "In an Elephant Corral": Xeale: 1912.)
On Friday, the 9th, two river-steamers, the Ezcaffa and Pap-
ilio stopped at my landing to get billets of fire-wood (of which
I kept on hand a free supply in return for the favors all the
steamers did for me). These movements alarmed the people in
Nyare's village; and, they fled with their goods to the forest.
They did not return until they sent a messenger to ask my per-
mission. (I simply replied that I had not ordered them to
leave.)
On Saturday, the 10th, Messieurs Lesteur and Michelez, with
thirty canoes of the French expedition, on their way down from
the Interior, stopped to salute us. Nyare's people were again
alarmed, thinking that the French had come to avenge me.
(They and all the white men, French officials, and German and
English traders, and small river-steamer captains, generally
made it a point to call on as one of the Germans called
Mrs. Nassau, "The Lady of the River.") The arrival of
these gentlemen, just at that time, was only a coincidence; but. it
impressed Xyare greatly.
In the afternoon, I went with Mrs. Nassau in the Swan to
Ndoiia-rna-vuna's. The people there met me with great re-
spect and protestations of friendship. As a result of this whole
affair. I never had another contest with Xyare or any other
chief. My position was assured. The report of my action
spread far and wide. I still believe that it was one of the best
day's work done by me at Talaguga. Clans and tribes fifty or
one hundred miles away heard of it. and felt assured*that thev
IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE 441
would be safe under my protection, if they visited me. They
did thus visit; and I thus preached to thousands whom I would
never otherwise have met. Thenceforward, my canoes were
safe on any part of the river, even in war-time. Nyare made
many efforts to re-establish our " friendship " by offer of gifts.
But, I refused to accept them. I heard that people said that, if
I went away, they would kill Nyare as the cause.
On Sunday, the nth, with all this excitement, there was a
reaction; and Mrs. Nassau was sick. At the morning service,
many Fahwe were present. Our friend Laseni also came in the
afternoon. And later, came the Okota with Mr. Schiff and a
French trader'. The vessel was laden with all the imported pine
boards and lumber for our new house. Mr. Schiff did not ask
me to allow him to discharge on the Sunday. He and the
trader took tea with us. And, in return for his courteous recog-
nition of my principles, early on Monday morning, with a crowd
of friendly Fan we, and with people whom Laseni sent, the un-
loading was all completed by 8.30 o'clock.
On the Okota also had come from Benita, a civilized native
man, Metyeba, a skillful carpenter, who successfully took up the
work which Mr. Menkel had laid down. With him was his
wife, whose presence would give Mrs. Nassau a little bit of
society. Heard that Mr. Schiff had broken up his trading-house
at Nyare's, and removed his trader elsewhere.
On Wednesday, the 21st, people came with Nyare, to settle
peace between him and myself. I declined to speak to him,
though I was cordial to all the others.
Mr. Schiff took his trader, on Friday, the 23d, to locate him
at a point beyond Njoli Post. On Saturday, the 24th, heard
that some of Nyare's women had deserted him, and ran away.
On Monday, the 26th, heard that M. de Kerraoul had enacted
a law that no one, white or native, except French, should pass
up-river beyond Njoli Island; and that all produce from the
Interior must be brought down that far by the interior tribes
themselves. But, as this was only a native report, and we never
received any official notice of the interdict, Mrs. Nassau resumed
the sewing of her short-skirted dresses, for our planned-for
journey to the Okota boundary (twenty miles up-river) for the
dry season of 1884. For, she joyfully looked to the prospect
of a station farther toward the Interior, and insisted that she
should share with me the initial experience of the selection of
the location.
Not thinking that we were included in de Kerraoul's interdict
44-' MY OGOWE
about passing- Njoli Island, Mrs. Nassau and I, on Wednesday,
the 28th, made an interesting visit and preaching services at a
large Bindul>e town beyond the island. Mrs. Nassau enjoyed
the excursion very much, noticing the trees and plants and
flowers, and was amused with some of the natives' acts. We
made a similar excursion down-river, on Saturday. December
1, the short distance to Laseni's trading-place.
We often had difficulties with our employees. But, the ex-
planation for some of them was that we did not treat our
workers as servants. We gave them parental interest, and ex-
pected filial respect. Some of them failed to appreciate this.
Other men, who established their household arrangements on a
somewhat military basis, often obtained better service than we.
But, they never obtained the affection we reaped.
As the carpenter Metyeba had come to the river originally <>n
my sister's invitation, she claimed him; and, to our regret, he
had to leave us, on Wednesday, the 12th. But, two days later,
came three Galwas ; one of them, Elder Nguva, who had grown
in competence as a carpenter, having obtained his first knowl-
edge of tools from me in 1876.
On Friday, the 21st, Nyare with a company of twenty people
came laden with gifts, which he begged me to accept as a peace-
offering. 1 finally did so. lie made great promises for the
future. Sunday, the 23d, was a very quiet day. Nyare and
his retinue of 20 were present at the services.
During these days, Mrs. Nassau wrote: "December has
come; but, we have been again unable to find a crew to take us
to Okota. We now look forward to June, 1884. The desire
is not only to z'isit, but to remain and teach." [Hoping that
someone else would be sent to occupy Talaguga. | "During
husband's visit there, he was charmed with the people, their ex-
pressed desire to learn, their superior houses, apparent docility
and intelligence, the freedom from the roving disposition which
makes our Fail we so difficult to reach. Said Fan we have been
very unimpressible. Their fierceness and fearlessness give a
hardness to their character, which united with their readiness
to break up home and move villages every year or two, and their
absorbing covetousness, renders our work among them slow
and not satisfactory."
In the unsettled state of affairs between the tribes, it was not
safe to leave our cottage unguarded, with its accumulated goods
(really few, in our economical view, but wealth to avaricious
natives). So, I placed my four workmen and two household
IN THE TALAGUGA HILL-SIDE COTTAGE 443
lads in strict charge and watch (having determined to have no
repetition of a Belambla robbery), and attempted the down-
river quarterly to Kangwe, with three weak hands, simply float-
ing down-stream, taking two-and-a-half days for a journey that
could readily be made in one, with a proper crew.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
On Thursday, December 27, with Mrs. Nassau in the Nelly-
Hozvard, we started down-river, with, as crew, a lad Mbigino,
a little boy Ogeningo, and a young man Origo sick with boils
on his back and legs. This a crew for a boat 30 ft. long. 6 ft.
beam, and whose usual propulsion was by six long oars ! I took
this boat, rather than the Szvan; for, the former would be needed
to bring back supplies; and I trusted to obtain new recruits at
Kangwe. At Laseni's, I took in, as passenger, a helpless little
boy. That night was passed at Ngwilaka. The small stuffy
hut, and heat from two adjacent fires gave Mrs. Nassau a most
distressing night. Friday night was better, in a native trader's
house near to the Ngunye mouth. Of it, Mrs. Nassau wrote :
" His two rooms, with nice bed, and table, high and swept fairly
clean, were like palaces, after our experience of last night."
The next day, Saturday, the 29th, in passing the Ngunye
mouth, a hippopotamus rose a few yards in front of us, then
sunk, and immediately afterward rose exactly at the boat's stern.
Sitting at the rudder, I could almost have touched it. Evi-
dently, it had risen with intention to strike the boat ; but our
progress with the current had carried us just beyond him.
Reaching Andende that morning, Mrs. Nassau was just in
time to receive, at Mr. Robinson's table, the returned agents of,
respectively, the English and German houses, Messrs. Sinclair
and Schiff, where were invited also, my sister, and Miss Hard-
ing and her mother, from the Hill. But, in the evening, Air.
Robinson was taken sick.
On the Sunday, I preached for Mr. Robinson in the morning;
and he attempted Sabbath school ; but, in the evening he had to
go to bed. That was the beginning of a sickness that compelled
Mr. Robinson to save his life by going to the United States.
This visit to Kangwe was no vacation rest for either of us.
During Mr. Robinson's sickness, and for the few days until
Mr. Reading's return from England, I had to take entire charge
of church and station, and Mrs. Nassau in charge of the
Andende household. We made out our semi-annual orders to
England and the United States, for provisions and supplies for
444 MY OGOWE
a year ahead, i. e., allowing six months for the going and delays
in coming of the orders, and that they should arrive before our
stock-on-hand should oe exhausted.
Mrs. Nassau was interested in keeping record of all my various
journeys during the year, long or short. Her account book
showed over 1500 miles for 1883, even though I was so ham-
pered by house-building.
CHAPTER XXIV
IN THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW,
JANUARY, 1884-AUGUST, 1884
BARAKA, at Libreville, in the Gaboon, was the central sta-
tion of the mission. On which fact, it rather prided it-
self. Usually, our semi-annual (afterward annual)
meetings had been held there, compelling me to very painful
journeys. I had made a respectful protest; and, it was kindly
regarded. Thenceforth, the meetings (no longer semi-annual)
were to be held, as far as possible, at the three stations, Gaboon,
Benita, and Ogowe, in rotation. For 1884, members of mission
and presbytery were to come to Kangwe. Few came. And, for
those who did come, the meetings were distressing in the con-
fused condition of the station.
On Wednesday, January 2, Mr. Reading arrived, having left
Mrs. Reading in the United States, and immediately resumed
his charge of the station. Unfortunately, a violent hostility
against him had developed among the employees, who met his
return with mutiny. In the quelling of which. Elder Nguva
was subjected to suspension, by action of presbytery.
On Monday, the 7th, at presbytery, there was exactly the
legal quorum, three ministers and several ruling elders ; that
quorum being obtained by our organizing at Mr. Robinson's bed-
side. Though our subsequent sessions were held in another
room, no parliamentary notice was taken of his absence. Rev.
A. C. Good arrived from Baraka, after presbytery had ad-
journed. As he would not wait for the little river-steamer, he
borrowed my Ncllx-Hozvard, in which to return to Libreville,
on January 16. In the mission meetings, the full legal quorum
was maintained. At their close, the Rev. Win. C. Gault took
away the sick Mr. Robinson, on the little steamer. Of those
days, Mrs. Nassau wrote: "Mr. Reading arrived from Eng-
land; also Rev. W. C. Gault of Benita. They found at Andende
house, Mr. Robinson very low with fever, in its most dangerous
form; and Dr. and Mrs. Nassau in temporary charge of the
445
44 r > MY OGOWE
station, and acting also as physician and nurse. With Messrs.
Reading- and Gault, came an elder from Galxxin. and five from
the northern field: gentlemanly christian men they all appeared
to be. . . . That week passed slowly, filled with watchings and
anxieties.
" Sabbath, the 6th, brought an interrupted communion, the
comfort of which was greatly lessened by the very apparent
coldness and pride of many native christians : which, on the
following Monday, the 7th, culminated in a cruel desertion of
all workmen, save three, from the station, leaving us strangers,
with perhaps a dying man on our hands, to care for ourselves.
" Providence kindly so ordered that one of the native visitors
who was with us took the place of cook : until the deserters,
seeing their folly and wrong, returned, begging to be received
back.
" A strange vacation it has been, between the joy of meeting
native friends and fellow-christians, then, cut to the heart by
their cruel desertion: greetings of welcome from dear fellow-
missionaries, followed by farewells spoken by pallid lips, and so
feebly spoken that we fear lest those tones will never again be
heard by us." [Mr. Robinson did return: married: but Mrs.
Xassau was gone!]
The maternity, for which in 1883. Mrs. Xassau had hoped,
was now to be granted. Mow bitterly she missed the sympathy
of the absent Mrs. Reading! The latter had joined with her
in her prayer for motherhood; and had promised to be with her.
to help and advise in all its stages.
The next, to whom she should turn, as a repository of her
happy secret, would naturally be her sister-in-law. Rut. my
sister, having deliberately chosen for herself the single life,
caused it to be understood that, as she " knew nothing about
babies." she could render no aid: adding an expression of opin-
ion that children in a missionary's household were a hindrance
to mission work. She was conscientious in her opinion. lint,
with the majority. 1 believe that, whatever limitation of direct
work the presence of the mission-child lays on its mother, i^
more than compensated by the demonstration to heathen minds
of the noblest feature of christian civilization, the family. It
was quite true that my sister had no capacity for the care of in-
fants, ller one great success was in the education of young
men. Hut. the opinion which she so inappropriately added that
day. and which sent my wife in tears to me. vividly governed
all my own subsequent care of the child, after its birth: and for-
IN THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW 447
ever barred me from allowing its aunt any authority, control,
or charge over it.
We then turned to Mrs. Ogden, of the Baraka household.
That she came from the same part of New Jersey as did Mrs.
Nassau, suggested a slight claim beyond that of missionary sis-
tership. Especially, also, a year previously, while she was at
Benita, she had generously insisted on taking a risky sea-
journey of ninety miles in a small open sail-boat, in order to be
present in Libreville with Mrs. Good at her confinement.
Airs. Ogden kindly promised to come. As her service was
to be only that of a friend, I would save her from anything
manual, and wrote to Rev. Ibia-j-Ikenge, native pastor on Cori-
sco Island, to engage for me the very best educated native chris-
tian lady he could find in his congregation, as nurse for the ex-
pected babe. I also wrote to a certain Dr. Adam, a physician
of Liverpool, England, who formerly had lived on the West
Africa Coast, and knew its necessities. I gave him carte blanche
to send to me everything of infant food, clothing, medicines,
and appliances that he would deem necessary for a lady in con-
finement in Liverpool.
RETURN" TO TALAGUGA.
We left Kangwe again for Talaguga on Tuesday. January
22, assisted most of the way, being towed by a trader's launch
that was towing his own sailing vessel.
A deed for some property of Mrs. Nassau's in the United
States had come to her for signature. We went to Mons. Ker-
raoul, at Njoli Post, to ask him to give his official seal to the
statement of fact that the woman " M. B. F." named in the
dee(\. was the same as my wife. " M. B. F. N." whose signature
was required. He declined; saying that he was not a notary
public. But, he had known us for two years, and could have
testified to the fact of her identity. Because of his refusal,
Mrs. Nassau had to make a journey down to Kangwe. We did
not think it safe for our house that both of us should just at
that time be absent. So, she bravely went alone, in our native
kongongo. with a strong crew of seven. In order to make the
down-trip in one day. and thus avoid sleeping on the way. she
started in the dark of the morning of Wednesday, February 13.
Neither she nor I were afraid of the natives on the way. After
my fight with Nyare, we were safe anywhere. But. there were
other dangers. It was very brave, a lone woman, going out in
the darkness of that hour, on the sixty-five mile trip to Kangwe.
448 MY OGOWE
Next day, some trade-canoes, coming up-river, reported to me
that they had met her.
And, on the following day. Mr. Menkel arrived from Libre-
ville, bringing my Nelly-Howard. He too reported having met
Mrs. Nassau. She had a successful journey; returning to Tala-
guga on Friday, the 22d, with her own kongengo and another
boat, both of them laden with supplies. She informed me that,
at Lembarene Post, the ordinary police-sergeant (though not
a notary public), with Mr. Reading as witness, had kindly done
what de Kerraoul had declined to do.
During her absence, great anxiety was raised, both at Tala-
guga and Kangwe, on account of an affray at Erere-volo :
French canoes going down-river, with Aduma crews, and a
French priest in company, had stopped at that place. Fail we
and Aduma quarreled: the former fired, and wounded the priest :
reports also that some men were killed. The canoes had re-
turned to Xjoli Post; and Mon. Kerraoul had gone to Erere-
volo, and had seized some Fail we and a Mpongwe trader Iveke
Wilson, who was charged with complicity. These reports did
not alarm me, nor did they Mrs. Nassau. But they did alarm
most of her two crews, though Mr. Reading had kindly pro-
vided her with two reliable leaders. Mamba and Yongwe, in his
boat, the Montclair. Mrs. Nassau said to the terrified ones.
" When we shall be passing a place where shots are coming, I
will stand up in the boat and take them, and you may jump into
the water."
The work at gathering of the logs for the foundation of the
new house went on with some vigor. As. besides Mr. Menkel.
I had also the excellent Metyeba. whom my sister had allowed
to return to me.
The exact record of those days is: On Friday, the J-'d. the
Montclair, under Mamba's charge, arrived from Kangwe. with
Mrs. Nassau; also, accompanied by Piere and the kongongo (in
which she had gone down-river). Mamba and Mr. Reading's
other employees returned to Kangwe that night.
On Wednesday. March 5. the Okota came, bringing the re-
mainder of the lumber for Mrs. Nassau's new house. As pas-
senger, my sister came, to have a tooth extracted. And, she
returned to Kangwe by that vessel, next day. During a fur-
lough in the United States, 1 had spent one day in a dentist's
office, and had been shown how to handle a forceps. There was,
at that time, no dentist in the mission, nor in the entire Gaboon
and Ocrowe region. Manv an aching tooth was unskillfullv
IN THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW 449
drawn by some fellow-missionary, that might have been saved
by skilled dentistry.
In Mr. Menkel's return to me, I hoped that he had come in
better spirit than when he left the house-building six months
before. But, he made most astonishing new demands. He re-
quired of me. not only that I should place all of my employees
under his sole control, but that I should offer no advice, sugges-
tion or criticism of his work after I had given the plan of the
house into his hands. Being helpless, I had to comply. And,
thence on. I was only a silent spectator of the erection of my
own house! (Xo contractor in the United States would have
assumed so autocratic a position.) On occasions, Mr. Menkel
would cease the work, and amuse himself in some other way.
On Thursday, March 12. Mrs. Nassau wrote: "Mr. Menkel
stayed on his bed, reading, all the morning. T have not the
sympathy which I had before for him. in troubles between him-
self and Hamill. He finished his novel: and, after dinner, went
down the hill. After a long talk, he went to work. His de-
mands, some of them are unjust: to others, Hamill consented."
Again, on Saturday. March 22. Mrs. Nassau writes: " Metyeba
told Hamill that all things were going to destruction at the new
house, unless Hamill himself would go and remain on the
grounds. Hamill talked with Mr. Menkel: reminded him of
his promise not to strike the men (which he had broken, these
days), and reproved him for his impatient and angry way of
directing the workmen. He took the reproof kindly. I wish
Hamill could give the control of the men to Mr. Menkel: but.
we are morally certain that this would result in the departure
of nearly every man." As had been the case, six months before.
In her diary of Tuesday. April 8, Mrs. Nassau mentions hav-
ing found a piece of plumbago near the brook. I do not re-
member her having said anything to me about it. [But. a few
years later, when the Rev. A. C. Good was visiting me. T took
him over the Hill, following the course of the mountain-brook,
and. T found, and directed his attention to what I believed was
plumbago.]
On Saturday. April 12. with Mrs. Nassau. T went, for preach-
ing services, to the Bindube villages, three miles up-river. The
Goree sentinel soldier on Xjoli Island stopped us. Nevertheless,
we proceeded.
On Saturday, the 19th. that sentinel stopped me again. The
day was a critical one in our Talaguga life. That day. T had
taken Mr. Menkel with me to make a courtesv call on the French
45o MY OGOWE
official at Njoli Post. Mrs. Nassau baked and sent with me a
tasteful gift of pastries for Mons. Kerraoul. As we were pass-
ing the lower end of Njoli Island, we observed that French laptot
(Senegal soldier) making frantic motions toward us. I had no
idea what he was saying. Thinking that he was in distress, I
went to his aid ( ?). Then, we understood that he was ordering
us not to proceed. We knew no reason why, and refused. He
berated me for having been visiting the Bindube towns ; and
threatened to shoot me. I told him that my errand was to the
administrator himself. He was obdurate. I showed him my
gifts for "his excellency." Then, he yielded; but, said that if,
on our return. I did not bring a written permit from Mon. Ker-
raoul, he would shoot me. At the post, we were received (ap-
parently) cordially. Mons. Kerraoul spoke in English, and we
conversed. Ironically, I complimented him on having such a
good guard on Njoli. He justified him! "But, Governor, is
it not permitted that I shall visit you, as now?" "No."
Amazed, I added. "Not even to make a call of courtesy?"
" No." Utterly amazed, I asked, hypothetically. " But, your
excellency, if my life was in great danger from the Fanwe at
Talaguga might I not come to you for assistance?" " No; it
is not permitted that any but French shall pass Njoli. If. how-
ever, you should be in danger, you may come as far as Njoli ;
and, the sentinel there will bring word for you to me." " And.
during that waiting there of almost two hours. T would probably
be killed. I see natives, Okota fishermen, coming almost daily
down to Talaguga. How is it that they pass Njoli? " "They
are French citizens, and, I give them daily written permits."
" Then, your excellency, please give a citizen of a country which
is in friendship with France a number of permits, to use as he
may have occasion." He refused. " But. certainly, you will
write me one permit, to pass me in safety, as I return to Tala-
guga to-day? " "With apparent reluctance he wrote it. And. \
gave it to the laptot on Njoli. During all that astonishing in-
terview. Mons. Kerraoul displayed the fullest of typical French
courtesy of voice and manner, including the shoulder shrug and
outturned palms, the Gallic final closure of any argument. I did
not believe that he had authority to issue that prohibition to me.
( His superiors, long afterward, disclaimed it : saying, that it
applied only to tradesmen.) But. I submitted.
From that 19th of April. I never again thought of Njoli Post
or M. Kerraoul as a source of aid in any way, as to letters.
mail, food, purchases, help, comfort, or companionship. He
IN THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW 451
and his post passed utterly out of the lives of Mrs. Nassau and
myself, except when we grieved at the belief that our plan for
advance into the Interior was dead. (I bitterly reminded him
of his prohibition, four months later.)
During all those years, I had interested myself, as a recreation,
in the collection of insects, most of which I sent to my friend
Mr. A. Murray, the entomologist, in London, England. While
I was at work on the 21st, on a new hut for the employees, I
had seen a strange object flying overhead, whose proboscis I
recognized as that of Drury's Goliath beetle. It was very rare.
I described it to the men, and told them that, any time they ever
should see it, they might drop their work, and I would give a dol-
lar to whoever could catch the beetle. The very next day, just as
we were dropping work about noon, Menge, going to the brook,
saw one alight on a small bush near him. He caught it unin-
jured, in his hand, and brought it to me. He felt rich with his
dollar. And, when I sent that beetle to Prof. Lockwood in New
Jersey, he replied that he " felt dangerously rich " in its pos-
session.
In the afternoon, I saw a canoe of the Bemijige clan being
pursued, on their way up-river, by a canoe of Nyare's (having
in it two men, Bilaii and Ntula, members of the thirteen who had
accompanied Nyare on November 6, 1883). The pursued
halted, and bravely dared their pursuers to follow them, and
fired. Nyare's people also fired, but retreated ; and, coming
ashore and hiding in the bushes on my premises, fired at the other
canoe out on the river. That, I could not allow. I went alone
and unarmed to the two men, and ordered them off. Mr.
Menkel rapidly followed with my Winchester to my aid. The
men obeyed me, and started away; but, we two followed them to
the boundary line near their village, and stood there awhile to
see that they did not return. Then, one of my men came to tell
me that the Bemijige were safely proceeding, and were coming
to my landingf-place. I went to meet and to welcome them, and
commended them for their courage. In their contest, they had
lost a paddle. I sold them one, and gave them another : and.
they went on their way safely.
At that time there were twenty natives, including the wife
each of the two native carpenters, Metyeba and Ankombie. I
could get no plantains at all. I had to feed them on rice and
farinya, often without meat ; a diet they were not used to.
Only their loyalty to me made them endure it.
I had faithfully complied with Mr. Menkel's demand that (in
452 MY OGOWE
order that he might have the entire credit for the erection of the
building) I should offer no advice nor make any criticisms.
But. he had allowed me to be present, in order to keep the
workmen obedient. The house was at last rapidly growing;
the first floor was boarded; and the entire frame was being
erected. Metyeba was a very quiet, diligent, conscientious
worker. On May 7, he quietly pointed out to me that the frame
of the house was out of pluml}, one end being six inches out of
level. I at once saw it, without attempting to measure ; and re-
spectfully asked Mr. Menkel's attention to it. He broke into a
rage. I as quietly asked him to take his square and level. He
did so. Then, he sat down weeping in shame at his mistake ;
turned his anger on Metyeba for not having told him rather
than me ; and said that he would throw up the job. I insisted
that it would be very wrong to leave me at that critical stage of
the building. He remained, and enclosed the outer walls. ( It
was true that Metyeba had pointed out that six inches, some
days before: but, Mr. Menkel had scouted the idea, had not even
attempted to verify it, and had forgotten it.)
On Saturday. May 10. I took Mrs. Nassau on an excursion
in her Swan, down-river to the Mpongwe trader Ongamu, at
Xjomu, opposite Yeria, whom I had commissioned to collect
thatch. And with us a canoe in which to load the thatch, so
that the Stcan should be occupied by only herself. With her
expected motherhood, she. at first, hesitated to go. Rut. she
returned, having enjoyed the ride, and the view of many beau-
tiful flowers.
On Thursday. May 22, very generously. Mr. Reading visited
us. bringing a supply of plantains, tins of fresh fruits and egg-
plant and other vegetables, grown in his own Andende garden,
but which I, in the newness of the place had not attempted to
cultivate at Talaguga. They were especially acceptable to Mrs.
Nassau.
On Sunday. June 8, \ preached in the morning, on isingi
("little foxes"). Three of my people came afterwards to in-
quire whether I had been preaching at them, as if \ thought they
had done something wrong while T had been away in the village
with Mrs. Nassau on the preceding Saturday. 1 had had 110
such thought; but. their inquiry, led me to suspect that they had
guilty consciences.
On Monday, June 23, Mr. Menkel left, having completed the
outer walls, doors, and windows of the house, so that it could
be securely closed, when I should go to Kangwe for the usual
IN THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW 453
quarterly communion. [I subsequently completed the interiors
of the house.]
JOURNEY TO ANDENDE.
On Tuesday, July 1, with a crew of nine, and Metyeba's wife.
Edibwani, in the X cl I y- Howard, Mrs. Nassau and I started
down-river. I left in charge of Talaguga the very competent
Renita carpenter. Metyeba, with six hands under his direction,
to continue the interior walls of the house. He was a steady
man. and my Galwas had no difficulty in obeying him. I was to
try to obtain at the Lembarene trading-houses, a large quantity
of thatch for the roofing of Mrs. Nassau's new house. For, the
" former " rains would be coming, by the end of September.
We were safe in our boat-travel, during the cool dry months
(July- August).
On the way, saw natives cutting up a manatee (dugong seal).
To my taste, it is the richest meat I have ever eaten. In one
hour, saw thirteen crocodiles (gavial). On the way, stopped at a
Bemijige town, on which the French had fired a few days previ-
ously. There was a warlike demonstration, but entirely friendly
to me. At the town, Mbomi, where we passed the night, was
the largest elephant tusk I had ever seen. The next day, before
starting, I discovered theft by Simbuve, and suspected Piere of
liquor. Was very much tried by them. Saw a crocodile that
had been shot so suddenly, that, instead of falling into the water,
it still lay on the log where it had been sleeping.
We could have rushed down stream in one day instead of two.
But, we chose to take it easily, for Mrs. Nassau to enjoy it as
an excursion, and to see objects on the way. We had the noon
meal at our good friend Ermy's. And, in passing the Ngunye,
some alarms from hippopotami. And, were at home, for the
night, at Mr. Reading's.
The next day, I was at the trading-houses on business. Met
two German travelers, who proposed entering the continent, at
Kamerun. going eastward. My longings for the Interior were
again aroused.
On Friday, the 4th, in the absence of Rev. W. H. Robinson,
I had to moderate the meeting of session. And, to conduct the
preparatory service on Saturday.
Sunday. July 6. Just after midnight of Saturday, in the first
dark hour of the morning, Mrs. Nassau awoke me. She was
suffering with a blood-flow and threatened miscarriage. Mr.
Reading was most attentive, while I hasted to the Hill, for medi-
454 MY OCOWE
cines I had left there. After being relieved of the worst symp-
toms, Mrs. Nassau was able to sleep somewhat. I left her, dur-
ing the morning, to administer the communion in the church.
In a study of her condition, I believed it to be a case of placenta
previa. (I had attended confinements successfully, but had not
met a similar case.) Most providentially, that very morning,
came the Falaba, bringing the box of medical supplies which I
had ordered from Liverpool, in the preceding January. Also,
there arrived an excellent Benga christian woman, the childless
widow, Handi, of about Mrs. Nassau's age, an educated member
of the Corisco church, the one whom Rev. Mr. Ibiya chose for
me, in response to my letter to him of January. Coincidentallv,
my sister had written a similar request for herself to Rev. F.
Myongo, of Benita, who selected this same woman. The date
of my sister's letter gave her priority of claim. There had
come also a mail, among which were letters from six of Mrs.
Nassau's best friends in the United States. T read them to her,
as she lay more quietly in the afternoon. They were the last
she ever received from the United States. But. to our disap-
pointment, Mrs. Ogden did not arrive. Nor did she come sub-
sequently.
On Monday, the 7th, Mrs. Nassau, still confined to bed, felt
so much better that I ventured to go to the trading-house, to in-
quire for thatch. I obtained a large quantity, on promise, from
my ever-helpful friend. Mr. Sinclair. But. there was still to be
the work of transferring it to the Okota, whose captain. Ludo-
vici. offered to take l>oth it and Mrs. Nassau and self a week later.
Mr. Reading was again having trouble with his employees, as
in January; and the best of them were leaving his service. Cap-
tain Ludovici's offer was most providential. In Mrs. Nassau's
delicate condition. I would not have dared to attempt to take her
to Talaguga on the usual four days' boat-journey. The Okota
had tried to ascend the Ngunye. Had it succeeded, there would
have 1>een no Talaguga trip. She failed, because the Ngunye
water was too low. She was willing to attempt the deeper water
of the Ogowe.
On Tuesday, the 8th. I had to attend to two marriages of
natives; Piere and his betrothed Apoyo, and Ntyindiorema and
his betrothed Ivenga. According to French law. no church cere-
mony was permitted in advance of the civil rite. As Mrs. Nas-
sau, though in bed, was improving. I left her, to take the four
young people to the commissaire at Lembarene. for the civil
IN THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW 455
ceremony; and, then, in the afternoon, I performed the church
ceremony.
I opened the box from Dr. Adam. And, there was also a
box of articles sent, in kind remembrance, by my sister Letitia,
wife of Rev. A. Gosman, D.D., and their four daughters,
specially named and labeled. Mrs. Nassau appreciated them very
much. They were the last earthly gifts she was to receive from
the United States.
On Wednesday, the 9th, it was safe to venture away again, on
errands to the trading-houses. A new house had been added to
those already in the river, that of J. Holt & Co., located at
Inenga, three miles up-river from Lembarene, on the left bank.
Their little steam-launch was named Oviro. (A native word,
meaning, " Come on! ")
On Thursday, the 10th, as both Mr. Reading and Handi were
with Mrs. Nassau, I again stayed away all day, returning only
after dark, in a successful transfer to the Okota of the thatch
which Mr. Sinclair allowed me to take from what he had en-
gaged for himself at a Fanwe town. When I returned Mrs.
Nassau was sitting on the lounge.
Next day, Sunday, the 13th, she was able to walk to the din-
ing-room to take her meals.
Packing was done on the 14th, for the Okota's journey of the
following day. In the evening, looking hopefully into the future,
we made out an order of provisions for the next year. My
sister was not willing to pay Handi the wages she desired ; and
the latter was dissatisfied with the variety of services expected
of her. Amicably for all parties, she entered my service.
In the morning of Thursday, the 15th, there was an hour's
pull in our boat, from Andende, around the head of the island,
to Lembarene, where we were to board the Okota. There, we
were received most courteously. We had had a hearty break-
fast before leaving Mr. Reading's ; but another was given us on
board. Fellow passengers were a Mr. B , an employee of
the French house, and Commissionaire Le D . Mrs. Nas-
sau sat in a comfortable chair on the little poop-deck at the ves-
sel's stern, under an awning, where her dinner was brought to
her. But, for supper, she joined the company in the little saloon.
How unlike all her other Ogowe journeys! This last one was
to be the only comfortably civilized one ! The progress was
slow ; for Captain Ludovici constantly had to feel his way with
lead-line ; so that, at night, we anchored near Mbomi.
456 MY OGOWE
The next clay, the 16th, on nearing Nkogo Creek, the captain
found his way blocked by sand-bars ; after going out in a canoe
to feel the way, he returned, saying that there was no passage,
and that the vessel must go back. As we were already half-
way to Talaguga, and Mrs. Nassau was feeling so well, I went
ashore to secure additional men for my crew of the Nelly-How-
ard (which was in tow), in order to make a Hying run to our
cottage. But, in the meanwhile, Mr. SchifT had gone out in a
canoe, and found a passage. So, the Okota remained at anchor
that night.
The next day, the journey was resumed. At Vena, the com-
missionaire with Mr. SchifT, went to the Fafiwe village which
had been burned by the French, for the assault on the priest in
the middle of February. The affair was settled by the Fafiwe
giving two hostages, a little boy and an old woman. The boy
was placed in the French Roman Catholic school, and the old
woman was allowed to stay with her own clan, at the house of
a Liberian trader, John Pierce.
The only unpleasant incident of the journey was the attempt,
one night, of the white engineer to solicit Handi. He assumed
that, like most native women, she was purchasable. He found
his mistake when Handi reported him to me the next day. I
was indignant; Mrs. Nassau was distressed. But, Mr. B
begged me not to carry the case to the man's employers. Agent
Schiff and Captain Ludovici. Considering the marked hospi-
tality they had accorded us, the matter was dropped. Arrived
at Talaguga, on landing, Mrs. Nassau said that she " felt stronger
than when she started on the voyage." Nevertheless, I had her
carried up the hill to our cottage; where the good Handi at once
made herself useful.
On Friday, the 18th, Mr. SchifT, Mr. B , Captain Ludo-
vici, and Mons. Le D , made an enjoyable call in the morn-
ing, before the steamer left. And, Metyeba, having tilled his
contract, took passage. I set to work on Monday, the Jist, with
all my people, if possible to hasten the roofing of the new house,
with the newly-acquired thatch.
In the evening of Thursday, the 24th. while I was reading
aloud to Mrs. Nassau, " Young Mrs. Jardine," we were startled
by one of the goats making a peculiar gurgling sound under the
house. Both of us, promptly said, " Njega! " (leopard). I went
out with rifle, lantern, and some of the men: but, the goat was
gone; evidently seized and carried away by the leopard. Next
IN THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW 457
day, two of my men found the half-eaten carcass of our goat,
out in the forest.
On Sunday, the 27th, I detected a Fail we lad cutting trees on
my grounds. I confiscated his axe.
The very last record in Mrs. Nassau's diary is on Monday,
the 28th, noting that the washing was " well done." But, in
her scrap-book are later dates, Tuesday, the 29th, and Wednes-
day, the 30th, a record of letters written to a W. F. M. S. secre-
tary, Miss M. C. Taylor, of Bordentown, N. J., and to Mrs.
Nassau's cousin, Miss Harriet Todd, Holmanville, N. J.
On Tuesday, the 29th, I returned to Mr. Reading a canoe he
had loaned me, sending in it four Galwa young men and one
Benita, who had faithfully filled the time of service for which
they had contracted. Later, the father of the lad came to ask
for the axe ; I declined to release it until he should pay a fine.
Still later, came the French explorer, Dr. Ballay, companion of
De Brazza, with five large canoes and one hundred men, on his
way overland from the Kongo. He stopped to salute us ; and,
kindly offered to take letters for us to Libreville.
On the 30th, the employees were afraid to go about the
grounds, because of leopards. One of the men said that he saw
one, that day. There had been several alarms since the killing
of the goat in the previous week. That night, while compelled
to sit up late, retreating from room to room before the vicious
advances of an army of driver ants, we heard an outcry among
the employees, about a leopard. But, I did not go out to see
about it ; I was having enough trouble.
On Thursday, July 31, Mrs. Nassau was not feeling com-
fortably. The loss of sleep, on account of the " drivers," and
the much loud talking among the employees at the water-side,
had tried her nerves. And, she wearied herself in sewing for
the expected little one, and in writing an important missionary
letter to a clergyman in the United States.
Very early, in the dark of the morning of Friday, August 1,
I was awakened by Mrs. Nassau's being seized with another at-
tack of threatened miscarriage, accompanied by profuse hemor-
rhage. I have a minute record of almost every hour, day and
night, of the eight days, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday,
Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, the 8th.
The life-blood was dripping away, from the first rush at 1
a. m. of the 1st to the last drop at 4 a. m. of the 8th. During
all those days, no work was done; but, my men quietly awaited
458 MY OGOWE
my possible call. And, I saw them, only when I went to the
morning and evening prayers. During all that week, either
Handi or I, day and night, were alternately watching by the bed-
side. There was no lack of medicines, water-bags, expedients,
and rearrangements of bedstead, pillows, and lidding; due to that
carte blanche order of mine to Dr. Adam in January. No lack
of a variety of kinds and modes of preparation of food and drink.
But, an inability to retain any of them, more than half an hour,
until the patient became faint and weak with hunger. At no
time, were there any symptoms of African fever.
The babe was born at 11.30, midnight of Thursday, the 7th
of August. And, five hours later, she was motherless. The
only persons in the cottage with me, besides Handi, were Apoyo,
Piere's young wife, and a lad Ngawe.
It would have been maddening, if, in the reflections of those
hours, there had been needed anything, for which there would
be the regret, " O! if I had only had so-and-so! " That Liver-
pool box from Dr. Adam had supplied every possible need for
both mother and child. But, there have always remained two
bitter regrets : that no woman of the mission had come to their
fellow-woman's hour of trial ; and, that I was not a surgeon.
Yet, looking at the situation, in the light of other examples, T
read of other women, even in the United States, in precisely the
same case, having died, though surrounded by parents, sisters,
nurses, doctors, and a wealth of medicines, comforts and appli-
ances.
There was the babe to be clothed and fed. I began, with un-
skilled hand and mode, the solemn mother-task, which I re-
tained, aided only by native hands, for more than six years.
During the first two years aided by the excellent Handi ; during
more than two other years, by, successively, eight incompetent,
half-civilized (and not all of them christian), Ogowe young
women ; and, during the final more than two years, by a superi-
orly educated christian woman, A-nye-ntyu-wa, of the Mpongwe
tribe, as nurse and governess. And, in pursuance of a pledge
to my dying wife, and because T thought (and still think) it was
best, but against the protests of relatives and other friends in
the United States, and of members of the mission, I kept the
little Mary with me in Africa, until she was more than six years
old, in good health.
There was the coffin to be made. The skillful Metyeba was
gone: but, one of the ordinary workmen, Ompwenge, helped me
with saw and plane. French law, in the tropics, required inter-
IN THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW 459
ment to be made within twelve hours after the decease. For
months, I had ceased to think of the French government as a
factor in my life, for any matter of courtesy or even obedience.
I kept my dead for thirty-six hours. There was no corruption ;
for, the corpse was bloodless, and, in its organs there had been
no fever. French law required that deaths should be reported,
and permit for burial requested. I did not request. Why
should I think of post officials, with whom communication, even
of courtesy, had been prohibited? (Subsequently, I did report,
when applying for a birth-certificate.) I sent word to no white
man in the neighborhood. The Fan we were my friends. They
sat in their villages in distress, refraining even from going to
their daily garden-work.
On Saturday, the grave was to be dug. My men made it,
among the quartz boulders of the steep hillside near the new
house that was to have been hers. At 4.30, in the afternoon,
my eight young men and lads, Ompwenge, Piere, Simbuve,
Nambo, Alundo, Mbigino, Isambo, and Ngawe, carried the cof-
fin down hill, across the log bridge, and up to the grave.
Ambaga accompanied, carrying a little bundle to be placed in
the grave. On jingo stayed in the cottage with Handi and the
baby. Ampamba's hand prevented him from helping. Fan we
stood silently. They could not understand a burial that was
devoid of yells of grief. "They listened to my short address and
prayer.
I have mentioned the above names of my household assistants.
I looked on them, at the time, as almost my only friends. They
certainly were very attentive and sympathetic during those days.
But, perhaps I expected too much of them afterward. African
negroes are mercurial. Neither grief nor joy long influences
them.
On Sunday, the 10th, as if, like Ezekiel, it had been said to
me, " Neither mourn nor weep," " so, I spoke unto the people
in the morning." And, there was Mrs. Nassau's Bible class in
the afternoon. She would not have liked me to neglect it. And,
in the evening, I spoke of God's great Love for us ; greater even
(as I illustrated) than Mrs. Nassau's love for me, or for the
people of Africa.
Then, on Monday, the nth, a canoe and crew was to be sent
to Kangwe, with the heavy shadow to the mission, to the Board,
and to American relatives and friends.
About 10 a. m. Mons. Kerraoul and a French associate of his
called, on a visit of condolence. He mentioned that, for the
4 6o MY OGOWE
week past, lie had had the company of nine friends who had
arrived overland from the Kongo. It was a bitter thought to
me, that, among those men, was a physician, Dr. Manas. And,
I had not known it ! Mons. Kerraoul said that I should have
sent for the doctor's assistance. I reminded him that he himself
had forbidden me to approach Njoli Post under any circum-
stances. He said that the restriction had recently been removed ;
and offered any aid from the physician for my babe.
I had not known that even M. Kerraoul or anyone was at the
post. I had been told by natives that he had gone down-river.
CHAPTER XXV
A MOTHER-TASK, AUGUST, 1884-1886
MY mother-task began with the aid of the excellent Benga
woman Handi. On Tuesday, August 12, Dr. Manas
came, and gave medical advice about the babe. I had
from the very first day, arranged exact hours, and directions, as
to the child's food and baths, between Handi and myself. When
9 p. m. came, she was to lay the child down, even if it was not
asleep. And. from that hour, Handi was free, for her own
reading, sewing, recreation, etc., until 7 a. m., of the next day.
During that interval. I never called on her for any service what-
ever. I took, unaided, all the nights, during the subsequent six
years ; whatever were the babe's needs of food, medicine, or any
other attention. I have prepared her bottle of milk over the
little kerosene-stove, when T was so sick that I had to creep across
the floor on my hands and knees. The morning and evening
baths were Handi's office; but, I sat by, to observe any symp-
toms. Handi's duty beginning at 7 A. m., I felt free to write,
or to superintend work. At the babe's regular specified food-
hour, I came from my work, whatever it was, and prepared the
milk, with my own hands. Handi might hold the bottle to the
babe's mouth : but, only my hands prepared it, in only certain
cups and vessels, which I kept locked in a certain cupboard, to
be washed and handled only by myself. With careful observa-
tion of symptoms, and with a variation, as indicated, in the
amount of water, or of sugar, or a little lime, or a pinch of salt.
in a series of experiments during the first two weeks, I found
just what suited my babe's digestion; and had not much difficulty
subsequently.
The excavation of the grave had been among rocks. T told
the men not to put the stones in again, but, to carry earth from
the water-side. As I wished it done quietly, and not with the
shouting usual where several worked together, I assigned only
one young man. Piere, for the duty. That, of course, was slow
work; and therefore several days elapsed before the grave was
461
462 MY OGOWE
entirely filled. I found Piere grumbling at his lonely task. This
so hurt me, as I wished nothing but kind thoughts around the
grave, that I dismissed him to other work, and took up the duty
myself, until a kinder-hearted one, Nambo, came and said, that,
although he was not well, he would complete the filling of the
grave.
The Fanwe women so missed the visits of Mrs. Nassau, that,
in the afternoon of the 15th. I took Handi's place in charge of
the babe, and sent her to hold a meeting with the women in the
villages.
I had lost almost all interest in the new house. I had none at
all in it for myself, now that the one for whom it was being
built was gone. Only obligation to the mission property and to
a possible successor made me feel that its completion was a duty.
After two weeks stoppage of the work, I resumed the finishing
of the interior partitions, etc. Dr. Manas, passing on a trip,
stopped at the beach, to say that he would soon call again, to
prescribe for my babe.
On Friday, the 22d. a woman, with a few fish, came to redeem
the axe I had captured a month before. I refused to take so
small a ransom, and told her to bring a cloth fa "dollar").
She went ; and returned with one, which T accepted, and gave
up the axe. Immediately, I burned the cloth, to show that T
did not wish to make gain. Again, in the afternoon, T took
charge of my babe, while Handi went for her recreation and for
service with the village women. That, thenceforward, became
our almost regular Friday custom. After evening'-prayers, four
of the household remained, for the usual Friday night christian-
conversation meeting, which, for some weeks, had been omitted.
But, I declined to resume it just then, because the church mem-
bers among them. Mbigino, Piere, and Mambo, and two of the
inquiry class, Ompwenge and Simbuve, persisted in using liquor.
They never used it to the point of intoxication. But, I had re-
quired total abstinence, and was pained at their lowering the
standard. I resumed my own regular Saturday afternoon
visitations, on Saturday, the 23d, and, with only occasional in-
terruptions, thenceforward continued them.
After supper Simbuve gave me a talk which showed a very
bad heart. He told, quite at length, how that in his village he
had not yielded to polygamy or slave-holding; how he had
worked for me. even to the point of a year's-contract book ; and
how he had "served God." Then, he threatened that, because I
had suspended him from the inquiry class, on account of his
A MOTHER-TASK 463
liquor-drinking, he would leave my employ, even if he should
lose the contract-money due him. It was very rare that a native
thus berated me. I was amazed at his thinking that I would
restore him just because of that threat. I took no notice of it;
told him that the class was not a matter of dollars ; that his pro-
fessed sorrow at being suspended from it was insincere, as shown
by the anger he was then displaying to me; and, turned from
him, unwilling to listen to any more of his spiteful words.
On Sunday, the 24th, a trader, Asagomwenge, came to say
that he was going down-river next day, and would take letters
for me. Also, he stated that several of my people had been
engaging passage with him ; he wished to know how many I
authorized to go, as he did not wish to be even an innocent
medium for deserters. This was very honorable in him. I
named three of my employees, to whom I had given permission ;
that any others would be deserters. He came next day, with
the three. I paid their wages to date. Then, a fourth said that
Simbuve and Piere owed him, and he was waiting to see them
paid, so that they might pay their debt to him. So; those two
intended to desert! I told them that if they wished to forfeit
their contract, they could go ; but, that nothing would be due
them on pay until the close of the month. They were very angry.
But, they knew that I was right. Piere deserted. Simbuve
stayed. Just as this episode closed, came Gov. Kerraoul and
Dr. Manas. I was glad of the coming of the latter ; for, my
babe had a diarrhoea, which change of food did not control.
The doctor prescribed diluted white of egg in her milk. It
proved very efficient ; and, I depended on it, in subsequent years.
At evening-prayers, the few who remained with me were in good
spirit ; and the house-employees were apparently trying to do
extra well for me.
My sister came from Kangwe, in her boat Evangeline, and
assisted me in the distribution of some of Mrs. Nassau's clothing.
The next day, Simbuve came, and made a partial apology for his
misconduct of Monday. I bought a quantity of crocodile-meat,
and gave my household a feast. My sister went, on Saturday,
the 30th, to visit the Bindube villages near the post. She saw
no sentinel on Xjoli, to threaten her with shooting!
On Sunday, August 31. heard that the Bemijige clan had cap-
tured one of Nyare's women ; he went down-river for a fight.
Next day, I arranged bundles of some of Mrs. Nassau's gar-
ments to give to her native friends. Increased the wages of the
4<4 MY OGOWE
two boys, Onjingo and Ambaga, whom I had designated as
sj>ecial attendants on Handi in her care of the babe.
On Wednesday, September 3, my sister returned to Kangwe.
Handi was much surprised. She could not understand it. She
had assumed that the aunt had come to take charge of her little
niece. I made no explanations. I resumed work on the new
house. If it could not be " Mrs. Nassau's," it should be " Mary's
house."
In the United States, empty cans are thrown away in garbage
boxes. At that time, in the Ogowe, natives bought them of me ;
as they valued them for drinking-cups, and for packing, against
the attacks of white-ants.
Ever since my contest with him, Nyare's position had sunk.
Finding that proximity to me was no longer a source of gain or
power; but, rather of shame, he decided, on Friday, the 5th.
to remove his village across the river, directly opposite to me.
Thenceforth, there was little occasion for his people to trespass.
I had been very regular and methodic, as to my bale's food-
hours. If she cried between hours. T assumed that the cause
was other than hunger; perhaps thirst, or irritable skin, or a tight
garment, or. internal pain, etc. So, although my nights were
all of them necessarily broken, the breaks gradually became fewer
or shorter. The night of the 5th was the best. From 7 p. M.
until 2 a. m.. she did not call for food. And, even then, she
slept so well, that 1 myself awoke her at 6 a. m. to offer her food,
which I thought necessary. Just after morning-prayers, came,
from down-river, the young Frenchman who had accompanied
M. Kerraoul in his call on me of August it. lie brought me
some mail, and two boxes. One of them contained infant cloth-
ing which Mrs. Nassau and 1 had ordered months before; and
books for which I had sent for her. Some of the little garments
had become wet in the boat: Handi immediately washed and
ironed them. The work on " Mary's house " was nearing com-
pletion. In the evening, the household were interested in my
showing them my babe's newly-arrived treasure of clothing.
Sunday, the 7th. My child one month old! Mr. (lallibert. a
French trader, living a short distance down-river, where Laseni
formerly located, came from Kangwe. bringing a letter from Mr.
Reading, and needed medicines (rhubarb and quick-lime). I
heard distant thunder, the first of the season. The river had been
slowly rising, and showers every night.
Among mv several Sundav and week religions services,
Mrs. Xassau had suirefested "monthly concert." I had not seen
A MOTHER-TASK 465
my way to commence it; for, though her life and mine were all
" missionary," there was no interest on that subject among my
Galwas, and entire indifference on part of the Fanwe. But, that
evening, as a memorial to Mrs. Nassau, I commenced a regular
monthly concert of prayer for missions. A Frenchman, a Mr.
Froment, stopped on the 8th, offering to take letters down-river.
I sent a package to my sister.
Until a more permanent structure, which I had ordered, should
arrive, to protect the grave, Simbuve built a plain wooden frame.
He came, in the evening of the next day to acknowledge his
faults, and asked to be permitted to rejoin the inquiry class.
After the usual weekly prayer-meeting, the employees held one
of their own. Was that a result of the Sunday-night concert?
The dates 10th, nth and 12th, were always anniversaries.
Simbuve came again to confess his wrong doings and ill-will to
me, in various matters since our journey in July down-river with
Mrs. Nassau, especially on the night spent at Mbomi. I restored
him to the inquiry class.
Work was going on well. In the evening of the nth, a pleas-
ant chat with the household about wild native fruits. On the
1 2th, Air. Froment, returning from Lembarene, delivered to me a
mail, and a box from my sister to Handi. It gratified her; for,
her life at Talaguga was a lonely one. Not unoccupied; for, out
of her regular daily duties to my babe, she had her own free hours.
But, how to occupy them outside of her own reading or sewing,
was a problem. She had no recreation, or companionship. Her
tribe was a civilized coast-tribe, and she could not affiliate with
the river tribes. It was a strong proof of her devotion to my
child, that she was willing to stay in such lonely surroundings.
It was a sad shadow over my mails, that, for months, they con-
tained letters addressed to Mrs. Nassau, from those who did not
yet know of her decease. One of the most sisterly ones to her
was from my sister Letitia. wife of Rev. A. Gosman, D.D., of
Lawrenceville, N. J. Dr. Manas came, not to prescribe, but to
obtain medicines from my good supply. That night, I resumed
the lessons with the inquiry class.
At night of Saturday, the 13th, my employees, in their water-
side hut, were singing hymns. How different from the days
when their shouts made me suspect liquor-drinking! How
pleased Airs. Nassau would have been! She had so longed for
the spiritual growth of those young men.
I was sick on Sunday, the 14th. and unable to preach; only a
short meeting, and only two Faiiwe present. Nyare was busy
466 MY OGOWE
building his town across the river. Baby, providentially quiet at
night, so that I had to rise for her only twice. Next day, a
young Fan we woman, who came to sell sweet potatoes, asked to
be permitted to see the process of bathing a white baby. She was
much interested and amused at Handi's careful and gentle
handling of every part of the body.
On Wednesday, the 17th, Mr. Gallibert sent, offering to take
letters down-river for me on the morrow. So, I sat up until
midnight, writing. Next day, after Mr. Gallibert had gone, Mons.
Kerraoul sent to me inquiring whether I was about to send a
boat down-river ; for, he wished to place a sick man as passenger
in it. One of Njagu-demba's women made a visit, dressed in
most theatric finery. Mavyafi came to see me. He expressed
sorrow for Mrs. Nassau's death. He said, " God is not good! "
I had to tell him not to say so: that God was always good. It
was true that, not always, had I myself been able to say of Him.
" Good, when He gives, supremely good ;
Nor less, when He denies."
All foreigners in the river, even the government post, some-
times were short on food-supplies. I needed rice; and. on Fri-
day, the 19th. had applied to the post, for a sale. M. Kerraoul
sent a bag of rice on loan; and asked to borrow some English
books; which T promptly sent him. Just as his messenger left,
there arrived from Lembarene, an English trader, bringing me a
mail. He attempted to give me condolence, on Mrs. Nassau's
death; but, was so intoxicated, that he could say nothing con-
nectedly.
A large number of Fanwe, from a distance, came on Saturday.
the 20th. to condole with me: among them a man whom Mrs.
Nassau had once very much gratified by playing the organ for
him, but who (she had remarked to me at that time) seemed in
great fear of her. Handi took my place in the village visitation.
When she told the people to come for Sunday to meeting, they
replied that there was no use for them to do so, because Mrs.
Nassau being dead, there was no one to play the organ. The
rainy season officially began, with thunder, lightning, heavy
clouds, and threatening rain.
On Thursday, the 25th, \ set out the little trees and plants.
which six months before. Mrs. Nassau had started in a box. as
a nursery. She had taken care of them all the while that they
were small. Everything 1 touched was hers; everything T was
doing was for her; every board I laid, every nail I drove, was for
A MOTHER-TASK 467
her. The hous,e was to have been hers ! I felt bitterly that she
had not been permitted even to enter it.
In reading over her diary, I saw where she had often been tried
by the kitchen employees, especially the very one, Mbigino, who
now for me was doing so well. Yet, with all those annoyances,
there was an almost daily entry of some ground for tlianks, even
when she had been in trouble.
On Sunday, the 28th, after breakfast, Mons. Lesteur, of the
French expedition, from' the Interior, stopped to express sym-
pathy; to apologize for my having been prevented in my journeys,
by Gov. Kerraoul ; and to offer to take letters.
Next day, Mons. Kerraoul called, to obtain paint, with which
to mark a head-board over the grave of one of his men who had
died. Two of Mr. Reading's men, Mamba and Abumba, who
were leaving his service, came, professedly to express sympathy
in my loss. Mr. Reading, in a letter which they brought, thought
that they had some other object in view. Perhaps they had.
They subsequently entered my employ. They had been my best
aids during my Kangwe days ; and they became my best aids
during my Talaguga years.
Mrs. Gault, from Benita, sent me an infant-feeding-bottle, not
knowing that I had one. But. I appreciated the gift. It had
been used by her own Willy who had died; and, it was the first
gift, from any missionary, to my child.
At night, of Thursday, October 1, while I was writing, I heard
Ompwenge talking angrily at the water-side hut ; and soon, there
was an outcry of little Onjingo's voice, as if he had been struck.
I went down the hill, and called the boy to me. He said that
Ompwenge had struck him because little Ambaga had complained
that Onjingo " bossed " him, in their work for Handi and the
babe. I felt troubled, and was indignant at the young man.
But, I said nothing to him, waiting until I should control my
temper, and study what was best to be done. The next morning,
after prayers, I told Ompwenge that I would not investigate
whether the little boy was right or wrong ; but, that I would fine
himself a half-dollar (trade) for breaking my rule that there
should be no striking. Even more obediently than I had hoped
for, he promptly paid the fine (in goods, one mug .30, and one
spool of thread .20). At night, after prayers, in the presence of
the company, I destroyed the two articles, as a proof that I had
put a fine on him simply as a punishment.
On Friday, baby was sick; and, T stayed with her, while Handi
went on her excursion to the villages.
468 MY OGOWE
On Tuesday, the 7th, the Okota came; on it was Mr. Reading,
with a mail, and a supply of farinya and dried fish for my work-
men. He frequently was generous to me in that helpful way,
knowing that very little was obtainable from my Fanwe. We
sat up late, talking over our respective station affairs. And,
then, I sat up still later, reading my mail.
The Mpongwe trader, Njalele, had located near me; and with
him was the young Galwa Ngawe, who recently had deserted
me. The trader could afford to pay higher prices for food, and
the boy's work was easier, and not so continuous as mine.
Another Mpongwe trader, " Dixon," who had formerly been
in Nyare's village, and who had returned, actually asked per-
mission of me to land his goods on the premises, and trade in
my water-side hut until he could build his own ! Aside from
the unwisdom of allowing trading on the mission grounds, the
idea of landing his rum barrel in my hut was insulting.
I could get along with housekeeping, etc., etc. ; but, the care
of the babe tied me from direct missionary work, e. g., itinera-
tion. I wrote to Mrs. Ogden, asking her aid, as her Baraka
duties were not numerous. Under somewhat similar circum-
stances, she had laid them entirely aside, for many weeks, to
take care of Mrs. Good's infant, though there were other ladies
and an available supply of native nurses in civilized Gaboon.
Mr. Reading left, on the Okota.
The 10th, nth and 12th of October were anniversary days.
On the nth, I was forty-nine years of age. I made my first
visit to Nyare's new village.
On Sunday, the 12th, I observed a growth on the babe, that
caused me careful, constant, anxious watching. I cured it, at
the cost of attention that was not relaxed for one hour during
an entire month. It was the heaviest task of all the six years
of my motherhood.
I planted fruit trees, oranges, sour-sop, pitanga, and guava on
the new grounds around Mary's house.
Housekeeping had been a comparatively simple affair, while
T had lived, during camping days, in a hut. And. since I had
had to direct something more formal in the cottage, after Mrs.
Nassau's death, I had managed, to a comfortable degree, with
the kitchen service. Rut, 1 had attempted nothing at house-
cleaning. During the two months since her departure, nothing
of that kind had been done in my room. I spent the entire day
of Wednesday, the 15th, with the household servants, in remov-
A MOTHER-TASK 469
ing all the furniture ; brushed, dusted, and washed ; beat the
carpet; sunned all the bedding.
On Thursday, the 16th, the carpentering work was completed;
and, I began the work of painting Mary's house.
I had obtained a wheelbarrow, as a more expeditious mode
of transporting earth, etc., than our old way of " toting " in a
box. When I put the barrow into Alundo's hands, he did not
know how to use it ! On the 20th, Mbigino also broke the rule
about striking (the complainant was the same little Onjingo).
And, I treated the case exactly as I had with Ompwenge, on the
2d. The effect was good; for, instead of harboring ill-will for
his punishment, he cooked an especially nice supper.
It was necessary for me to have bamboo for the outbuildings
of Mary's house. So, there had to be a journey to Yena. I
had no reliable men who could do the buying for me ; they were
competent only for the paddling. So, I ventured to go myself
on Wednesday, the 22d. But, I was very anxious. In the ten
weeks since my babe's birth, I had not been absent from her,
at one time, more than four hours. I went with the four
strongest of my people. When near Yena, I met the man
Ongamu, whom I had hired to obtain me thatch, coming with a
load. I hasted back, by noon. When he arrived, he had his
wife with him. This was company for Handi. And, the two
women went shopping at the trading-house at Nyare's. Ongamu
looked through the new house, and praised it. He was com-
petent to do so; for, he was an educated coast-man.
I had sat up reading, rather late at night, when, just as I was
preparing for bed, Ompwenge knocked excitedly, to say there
was some quarrel of Nambo with Onjingo. I told him it was
too late for me to investigate; that he should go quietly to his
hut until the next clay. He went away; but, I overheard him
call to Nambo, who followed him to the water-side, to discuss
the matter. I felt very much that I must do something decided,
to stop imposition on the little boys. I prayed for guidance, that
the offenders might take submissively whatever punishment
should be given them. Next morning, the 23d, at prayers, the
matter was settled. My petition seemed answered.
On Friday, the 24th, I ventured again to leave my babe for
a day. Went to Ndona-nyare's Njomu, opposite Yena, at Onga-
mu's trading-house. The chief welcomed me effusively.
Ongamu helped me. But, there was no disposition on the part
of the Fan we to sell or make thatch, unless goods were first
advanced in pre-payment. (This vicious "trust" system was
4jo MY OGOWE
practiced by all the white and native traders ; with the result that
all natives were in debt, by their deliberately failing to repay in
ivory, rubber, etc., for the goods that had l)een advanced. I en-
dured many privations rather than recognize that " system "
with the Faiiwe; they were too uncivilized. Coast-tribe men, I
could believe, would fulfill their promises.) I had to go back
and forth several times in the long villages, to look for and count
the thatch and bamboo. Even then, I did not always succeed
in making a bargain. Instead of sitting down and buying what
was brought to me, I had to go through the humiliating process
of seeking; and perhaps meeting with only indifference. All,
because I would not, as an initial step, make some gift. (I was
willing to give, at the close of a bargain.) But, Ongamu was
honest. I left goods in his hands; he would enjoy bargaining;
I never did. I was at the cottage again, by 7 p. m. Handi had
waited supper for me. Rut. as baby was hungry, I told her to
eat her supper at once, so that the child might have her evening
bath, and its always associated bottle of milk.
On Saturday, the 25th, Gov. Kerraoul, with Mons. Michaud
from Bowe Falls in the Interior, returned the borrowed books,
and took some new ones. He told me that he was expecting
2000 men from the Interior, to take up, in pieces, a steamer
which was soon to be brought from Gaboon by Mr. Lesteur. I
was grateful to him in that he promised to send me some milk,
as baby was rapidly using hers, and I could not expect the new
supply I had ordered from Liverpool to arrive before my then
present lot was exhausted.
Just after morning service of the 26th, I was seized with a
fever-chill; could not eat or do anything; unable to conduct Sab-
bath school, or evening service. Nevertheless, I took care of
baby at night. Nothing ever prevented that duty. And, yet.
with the ability that always came back to me after the twenty-
fourth hour. I was up again, on Monday afternoon, and at work
on Mary's house.
That insect pest, which I have already described, the eye-worm,
came at intervals of a few weeks or months; was endured on its
two days' travel; and forgotten until it came again.
T noted carefully any changes in my babe. On Wednesday,
the 29th. her developments were so obvious, that I made an
entry, "Baby seems to be growing." (for. at first, she had
weighed only 5^2 pounds).
In the afternoon of Thursday, the 30th. we heard the rhythmic
noise of the paddle-wheels of the Okota; then, her whistle
A MOTHER-TASK 471
(which meant not simply a salute, but a summons). While I
was preparing a canoe to go off, my sister appeared with her
crew in her Evangeline, which had been in tow of the steamer.
The vessel brought me five trunks and boxes of goods for Mrs.
Nassau and myself, and a mail. There was a valuable box of
presents to Mrs. Nassau from dear friends in Freehold, N. J.
My sister had come to help me arrange Mrs. Nassau's trunks,
which I was sending to the United States. After all had gone
to bed, I read my mail. That night was the first time since her
birth, that my babe slept through the entire night; ordinarily, I
had to attend to her wants two or three times, during a night.
The Okota went down-river again on Saturday, November 1.
Sister, having her own boat and crew, remained. Metyeba was
one of the crew, and, I hired him to make an alteration in Mary's
house, cutting off a space from the dining-room, and making a
small bath-room, for convenience of the baby, adjoining my bed-
room.
This addition of a warm closed bath-room (in which I placed
a little box-stove) was a great improvement on my original plan
of the house. Stairways let from both the sitting-room and
bath-room to the second or attic floor. That floor did not ex-
tend over the sitting-room ; it was open to the roof. In the attic
there were four rooms, for a guest, or for school-children, or
for storage.
On Wednesday, the 5th, my sister had a long talk with me,
about her future location. Besides her rare skill as a teacher,
she had unusual ability as an administrator. At all the stations
of the mission, there was always a problem of authority, due to
the habit of the natives of recognizing only one as " chief " or
" master " wherever two or more whites were located together,
unless the functions of those whites were entirely distinct, e. g\,
one in charge of the church, another in charge of the school,
another in charge of secular work. But, if any two men or
women were associated in any one of these departments, however
tactful or courteous those two might be to treat each other as
equal, the natives always made distinctions that sometimes were
unpleasant. For this, and for other reasons, my sister, from the
very first, at Mbade, Benita, preferred to have her own house.
And, I had built her one at Bolondo (which, subsequently, be-
came the station, and Mbade was abandoned). When her
health had begun to fail, in 1877. and she could not control
Bolondo alone, she came to me at Kangwe, knowing that I would
accord her the largest libertv, and unlimited control of her school
472 MY OGOWE
department. But, since her return to Kangwe in 1883, her as-
sociation with Miss Harding had not been a happy one. And,
in the prospective transfer of Rev. A. C. Good, for 1885, from
Baraka to Andende, she was sure that she would be uncomfort-
able. Mr. Good was a very able man and efficient worker.
But, his natural constitution was such that any one associated
with him had to submit to his direction. Sister intimated that
she would like to have the mission, at its January meeting,
transfer her to Talaguga; but, at the same time, she said,
" Brother. I will help you in any other way. but I can take no
care of the child." That was satisfactory. It was true that she
" knew nothing about babies." My three months' experience
had taught me that I could take better " care of the child " than
she could. But she could relieve me of the housekeeping, which
would not at all interfere with her school hours (which, she had
been doing for herself alone at Kangwe, without the additional
advantage I gave her at Talaguga, of my providing the servants
and provisions).
Friday, the 7th, my babe was three months old. On weighing
her, I found that she had gained only just three pounds in
weight. My sister returned to Kangwe. As very little more
carpentering was to be done on Mary's house (except the
porches) I had it entirely swept and cleaned, ready for occupa-
tion. While I was busy with two of the men, under the cottage,
tarring the posts against white-ants, and removing some of those
ant-eaten posts (though they had been in use only two years)
there came three Fan we with the carcasses of a wild hog. a
monkey, and a wild rat. I bought largely for the workmen,
and they and Handi and the two little boys quite lost their heads
for any more work, in their thinking of and preparing for their
feast.
The French steamer Conqucz passed up to the post, in the
morning of the nth. In the afternoon, some Fan we shouted
across the river that Mr. Gallibert wished me to send my canoe
down to his house for some goods left there by the steamer. 1
sent the canoe; and. it returned with boxes of paint.
It seemed almost impossible to teach my Fan we visitors not
to beg. I recognized the native etiquette that expected a host
or hostess to give a parting gift to the visitor. But, my visitors
could not restrain their cupidity. They would not wait until
their departure. And, often, when, in unwise kindness. I had
given in advance, they trespassed on the opened heart, and asked
for more. That always vexed me, and spoiled the visit. On
A MOTHER-TASK 473
Friday, the 14th, a man Zingema came to make a call with his
sister and his baby. I voluntarily gave him two good gifts.
Then, he asked for a third. I restrained myself. I gave a
third ; and, quietly took away one of the two.
On Sunday, the 16th, three Fanwe came, after services were
over. I made a special little service for themselves. In the
afternoon, Mr. Gallibert and two other Frenchmen called, on
their way to the post. One of the two had recently arrived
from the Kongo, and the other was going there. My interest
for the Interior was aroused more than ever by their tales of
the Bateke tribe, who in language were somewhat like Faiiwe,
but in disposition more docile. They reported that De Brazza
was not in good health, and that he was expected in the Ogowe
in a few months.
On Monday, the 17th, Ankombie with five people came, on
his own errand of canoe-making, and asked permission to live
on my premises. I felt doubtful about allowing him ; for, when
he had been at Talaguga in my service, though under my rules,
he did not keep the Sabbath and he drank liquor. I feared that
he would be an evil example, if I accepted him as a resident, not
under my control. But, as he had been a good workman and
helpful friend, I consented. I was not responsible for his food.
And, he and his people furnished somewhat (what had always
been one of the Talaguga difficulties) i. e. companionship for my
Galwas. Xext day, Nyare and his people came noisily to select
in the forest what trees Ankombie was to cut down for his
canoes. Then, came a canoe from Ongamu, with a welcome
box of dried fish, from Mr. Reading.
Then, came the trader, Asago-mwango with his goods which
he asked permission to land on my premises for a night's pro-
tection until he could choose a place at which to locate. I al-
lowed him: as he had been honorable; and, particularly, as he
was not to open his goods for trade on my grounds. All these
comings and goings set my household off their heads, and they
neglected their work and even their own meals. Y\ nile such
things disturbed the quiet which I enjoyed of my place, I could
not but be conscious that Talaguga had grown in importance.
On a map published about that time, in England, among the few
places marked above Lembarene, was my station, named as,
" Nassau." At the time when I was alone on the verge, in 1882,
travelers starting up-river inquired how far it was, " to Nas-
sau's." And, they all stopped to rest, or to seek help, or to ren-
der a courtesy.
474 MY OGOWE
On Wednesday, the 19th, Gov. Kerraoul came to bid me
good-by, as he was going to the Kongo. He asked for a pur-
chase of matches and quinine, of both of which I had a good
supply. When I asked him to accept them as a parting-gift,
he promised to send me some bottles of milk for baby. Asago-
mwango was still on my premises, on Friday, the 21st, though,
when he came, he had asked only for a night's protection.
Two Fanwe canoes from Yena, wet with the heavy rain of
the preceding night, came and stayed all day, afraid to pass in
daylight the post sentinel. They remained very quietly; Koso,
a Kangwe schoolboy, was with them. (It was disheartening,
that, just as soon as our young men in school learned even a
smattering, they were tempted away into trade.)
At service on Sunday, the 23d, were two Galwa traders from
Nyare's, and a number of his people with himself. Heard that
the Fanwe who had rested with me on Friday before, had been
robbed by the Bindube people near the post. I recorded that,
" Baby is developing rapidly, eats a good deal more than for-
merly, looks more animated, and is beginning to notice persons."'
Next day, Mr. Gallibert sent for me, saying that he was sick.
I went to him, and found that he had an obscure pain in the right
groin. I advised him to seek a surgeon. As he had nothing
but a small canoe, I sent to him my large one, at night, so that
he should be ready to start early the next morning.
Ndona-nyare came from Njomu, on his way up-river, and
stopped for the night. He was present at prayer-meeting.
After which, I entertained him in various ways. Among others,
I showed him the little fireworks called " Pharaoh's serpents."
They surprised him very much.
Just as the Okota was reported coming, in evening of the 26th,
I was seized with a sharp chill that made me so weak as to be
almost indifferent to what was going on. I took off my shoes,
and went to bed, unable to remove any of my clothing, and re-
mained so all night. Fortunately, baby was very good and quiet.
Before I gave up entirely, I had sent a canoe to the Okota, and
wrote a note requesting passage for Ompwenge and On jingo, who
wished to leave.
The next day. the 27th. though weak and faint, I went to the
Okota, to superintend the landing of my furniture and other
property for Mary's house. My people, without my supervision,
had carelessly allowed a mattress to get wet. There was mat-
ting for the floor, a chair for baby, fireworks with which to cele-
brate davs and amuse my household, and a box of gifts from
A MOTHER-TASK 475
Freehold, N. J., friends. So suddenly came and as suddenly
went, those African chills, in my personal experience, that, by
Friday, the 28th, I was able to go to Ongamu, at Ndona-nyare's
Njomu, for bamboo, for the new outbuilding's. Though the
water was higher than I had known it for three years, my crew
pulled admirably. By the departure of the two on the Okota,
I had very few hands remaining. But, the man Ankombie
loaned me four of his people. I had, with hesitation, allowed
him to live on the premises ; but, I found him companionable and
helpful.
On Saturday, the 29th, the Akcle, a little steamer of the new
English firm of J. Holt & Co., passed up, inspecting sites, for
the location of a trading-house. My small number of hands
was still farther reduced by the desertion of Nambo, after being
convicted of stealing.
During the four months, after Mrs. Nassau's death, in my de-
votion to the care of her babe; and, in efforts to complete the new
house, I had given very little supervision to the kitchen, leaving
the two assistants there much to their own devices. With the
result that there was theft and waste, which, on the Saturday,
had culminated in Nambo's crime. So, on Monday, December
1, I had to investigate the domestic affairs, and locked up the
soap, fish, sugar, etc., giving myself the additional care of per-
sonally handing out the needed daily supply.
While at work in the afternoon of the 4th, in the attic of
Mary's house, Njagu-demba, from Ngwilaka, came. Some time
before, leprosy had developed in him. I saw that it was rapidly
becoming worse ; and, was told that his women were deserting
him, and that his power and prestige, as a head-man, were gone.
Next day, Simbuve came to complain of some questions I
had asked him while investigating Nambo's thefts. I had made
no charge or even imputation. That he resented my question
seemed to be the outcome of a guilty conscience, and that he
probably had some guilty complicity (though I did not tell him
so). Two Frenchmen came from the post to buy food of me!
In my orders, from England and the United States, I generally
allowed for delays and losses, and made the orders large. So,
happening to have a good supply of meats on hand, I was able
to spare to the gentlemen, over $7 worth of canned meats.
Sunday, December 7. Baby was four months old. Though
she was well, she had gained only one pound per month. The
local difficulty, which I had carefully watched, almost hourly,
daily, for a month, with a compress and bandage, had happily
476 MY OGOWE
disappeared; and, I finally removed the bandage. A Fanwe,
Otsago, came to live on the premises and work for me. The
very first Fanwe who had done that ! Others had worked only
as day-laborers. Simbuve asked for baptism.
Next day, during the morning, the French steamer Conquez,
passing up, whistled. I went in a canoe alongside of her (for,
she did not stop, the current opposite Talaguga being very
strong) and was handed a letter from my sister, written at
Libreville. I had not known that she had gone thither.
On Friday, the 12th, I sent the men for building material to
Yena. I remained with the house-painting and the baby; with
whom I had a long hard time. For, the sand-flies were dread-
ful, worse than I had known them for three years. (I think
that the wind brought them from a peculiar quarter.)
On Sunday, the 14th, the Mpongwe trader, Njalele, with
eight other coast-people, and several Fanwe, came to services.
But, my household were not in a pleasant frame of mind. Sim-
buve was still sullen. And, even good Handi seemed out of
humor, and did not speak kindly to baby. That hurt me more
than anything else. I begged her to be more tender. Perhaps
she was not well ; for, the next day, I relieved her of much of
her duty with the babe, in order that she might recover herself.
One of Ankombie's men agreeably surprised me by saying that,
when his contract was ended, he wished to remain and work
for me. The Akele came to locate a trading-house near
Nyare's town. The white trader, Mr. Ahrens, called on me, to
ask my opinion of the locality.
Simbuve asked for the loan of my little canoe, that he might
go on a vacation of three or four months, as he was " tired of
eating farinya." His manner was not respectful. But, I made
no reply until, in the evening, after prayer-meeting, I called him,
and told him that it was not true that he had had only farinya;
for, I had offered him part rations of rice, and was giving him
fish twice a day. 1 gave him a long talk, justifying myself;
and he responded properly. Then, we knelt, and I prayed with
him.
During the morning of Wednesday, the 17th, came the Okota,
bringing the 1000 feet last consignment of boards for the com-
pletion of Mary's house. Best of all, it brought from Igenja,
three workmen, my faithful Mamba of my days at Kangwe
(and who, subsequently had been equally faithful to Mr. Read-
ing) Awora, a christian, and a younger lad. I gave thanks for
their arrival !
A MOTHER-TASK 477
In the afternoon, I had sewing to do; a new task since Mrs.
Nassau's departure. I did not ask Handi to do any such work
for me. She sewed for herself and for the babe. I wished her
to feel that her whole service belonged to my child. In that
service, she had the aid of a little girl, Fiti, whom she had
brought with her from the coast, and whom, for a while, she
had left at Kangwe, but who was subsequently brought to her
at Talaguga.
After my sewing, I relieved Handi of the babe, in order that
she could finish her (own clothing) ironing. Awora, with
marked oriental politeness, spoke of bringing to me, at the late
day, sympathy for Mrs. Nassau's death.
Thursday, the 18th, was a red-letter day. Mamba promptly
at work, planing boards ; and Awora drying the farinya that had
been dampened in landing. Everybody in a fresh good humor,
and apparently happy; all due to the arrival of Mamba. and his
two companions.
About noon, the Conquez steamed past, on its way to the post
at Asange. Ankombie's people working for me were very care-
ful to observe all rules, and to ask permission for what they
wished to do for themselves. At night of Friday, tlie inquiry
class was very satisfactory, on my new plan, of their voluntary
study of Bible history. The study that evening was on The
Fall.
After breakfast on Saturday, the 20th, I had just handed
baby to Handi for her bath, and, after putting her little bed to
rights. I had gone outdoors for a short while. When I returned,
1 was surprised and delighted to see Count De Brazza standing
in my front doorway. He had just arrived overland from the
Kongo. He was in great haste. The Conquez was to come in
a few minutes from the post, and would pick him up. As it
would not stop at Talaguga, he had come in advance, in a small
canoe ; as, in his courtesy, he would not pass me by, without a
salutation. He spoke kindly and tenderly of Mrs. Nassau and
the baby. I snatched up a letter I had ready for the United
States, and went with him down hill, talking rapidly as we
went. I knew of his rivalry with Stanley in the Kongo Interior ;
(if Stanley's efforts for the organization of the mis-called
"Kongo Free State"; and of De Brazza's treaties with the
native kings on the right bank of the Kong'o. Speaking of his
annexation to France of that part of the Kongo, he exclaimed,
" It is done, without firing a shot, excepting of a soldier of one
of my subordinates; and him I dismissed. It is peace!" He
478 MY OGOWE
was thin ; and there were eruptions on his hands and face, from
his experiences in the jungle; but, he seemed vigorous. He took
charge of my letter; and said that he would soon return from
Libreville. Then, he presented me with two pigs brought from
the Interior.
For the Saturday afternoon visitations, I appointed Mamba,
in place of Handi, who had been attending to them for me. In
the evening Ndona-nyare with people and goods, on his way up-
river, stopped in my convenient boat-shed over night.
Next day, Sunday, all of his people were at morning prayers ;
but, afterward they were noisy; and, himself attempted to go
hunting on my premises. I had to order away some of Xyare's
people, who, with their baskets, wished to make a short cut
across my grounds to their gardens. Many persons at services.
Gave Mamba a class of two little lx>ys at Sabbath school to
teach them the alphabet. Ndona-nyare left ; but, on his way,
was followed by Nyare, with a quarrel on the river. Nyare
had learned his lesson not to attack on my premises. I loosened
the two pigs; they were tame: and were satisfied to remain near
the cottage. Awora came to confess some evils in his life, and
his desire to return to the christian path. After all my favors
to Ankombie's people. Simbuve reported to me that one of them
had stolen a tin of paint. I was weary of investigations, and
did nothing to the man but order him off the premises, and
closed one of the two huts I had been allowing his master to
use. Then, the offender threatened revenge on Simbuve.
In my duty to my babe, I had given up entirely the important
work of itineration. Glad of Mamba's presence, though, useful
as he was in carpentering the last jobs on the house. T arranged
a four days' tour for him to the villages on both banks of the
river, down as far as Erere-volo. And. that I might be still
farther relieved (as Mrs. Ogden had declined to come to my
aid) I wrote to Rev. Mr. Ibiya, the native pastor on Corisco
Island, to seek for me, another educated christian woman like
Handi, to be her companion, and to assist me in the house.
In the afternoon of Wednesday, the 24th. my friend, Mr.
Gebauer. of the German house, at Lembarene, called, in sym-
pathy. It was he who had given Mrs. Nassau the name, " The
Lady of the River.''
Alundo's batch of bread would not rise, and was spoiled.
The pigs had a feast on it. Handi often got angry with her
little Fiti, and quarreled with her in an unseemly manner. I
A MOTHER-TASK 479
did not pretend to decide whether the child was right or wrong;
but, I insisted with Handi that, in her control of the little girl,
there should be no angry tones in the presence of or hearing of
my babe. I dreaded the moral influence of such tones.
Thursday, December 25. I took no notice of the Christmas.
It meant nothing to me in the isolation of that African forest.
The Fanwe had not heard of the day. In the more civilized
portions of the river, it was known to some of the natives,
from the example of foreigners, as a time for revelry, and the
one occasion on which white men distributed liquor free. My
few employees did not seem to remember the anniversary; and,
we kept on at our daily works. I relieved Handi all morning,
of the care of the baby. I did not forget the Babe of Bethlehem.
In the afternoon, two of Mr. Gallibert's people came with
two letters, addressed to laptot-soldiers at the post. They said
that the French trading-steamer Jeanne-Louise had brought
them, and that the captain had sent them to me to forward. I
did not believe them, and declined. I had not gone to Njoli or
the post since my life had been threatened in the previous May;
I needed my few men at work ; and the two men who had brought
the letters one mile to me, could just as well go on the remain-
ing five miles to Asange.
Mamba's step-father came to call him to go and see his sick
relative Sambunaga, a former Kangwe employee, and a church-
member. I did not think that it was Mamba's duty to go ; for,
Sambunaga had chosen the ways of earth : I thought that " the
dead should bury their dead." But, I permitted him to go.
On Sunday, the 28th, I spoke on the history of Jonah. After
meeting, cook Alundo said that he had never heard of that
story, and wanted to read it himself. I was gratified with even
that expression of interest. And, in the afternoon, after Sab-
bath school, lie asked about an illustration I had given in prayer-
meeting two weeks previous. I had spoken of christians being
known by their ways, and not simply by that name: and, re-
ferring to the common fact of a hen hatching a brood of ducks,
I said that no one could make the mistake of calling that brood
" chickens " ; that they were ducks would be shown by their
ways. e. g. going into water, etc.
In the evening of Wednesday, the 31st. my household enjoyed
themselves very much with American and British illustrated
newspapers. They knew nothing of " Xew Year's Eve." And,
alone by myself, I had nothing to meet me but memories.
480 MY OGOWE
Thursday, January I, 1885. In the morning, mending my
clothing - . In the afternoon, superintending the building of the
new outhouses. But, I left work early, to pay the men their
month's wages. Discovered that Fiti and Ambaga had been
stealing butter. These two little thieves were my baby's play-
mates ! Had intended to give a little fireworks exhibition in
the evening; but, because of the offenses of the day, I did not.
Simbuve thought it was because I suspected him of liquor-
drinking. He worked for himself part of a day, making chests.
But, he said he could not find time to prepare a lesson in Bible-
reading for the Friday evening inquiry class. From this, I
thought there was little depth in his profession of desire for
baptism.
Servants, the world over, are often trying, by their mistakes
and neglects. And, sometimes the tried nerves of the master
or mistress aggravate the difficulties. Monday, the 5th, was an
evil day: Little Fiti had neglected to cook Handi's rice, the
evening before, so, her breakfast not being ready, Handi was
angry at her, and even with me ; so, I fed and nursed baby my-
self all the morning. Leaving the babe, in the afternoon, I went
to see the men's work, and had to tear down the imperfect job
that Simbuve had done, without my supervision, in which he
had broken one of the window-latches. And, Ra-Wire was
dreadfully slow in painting. And, even good Awora was very
stupid. And, cook Alundo was almost disobediently neglectful
of my directions. I was so wearied that I gave up in despair;
and, leaving the men to their own devices, I returned to the
cottage, where I found Handi nursing the baby. I took the
child in my own arms; and then had a kind talk with Handi.
She made explanations and apologies ; and the rough places
were smoothed again.
About noon of Tuesday, the 6th, the Oviro,- belonging to the
new English firm of J. Holt & Co., came. To my delighted sur-
prise, it brought Mamba ; but no mail. There were verbal re-
ports that my sister was still at Libreville. Also, that Rev. A.
C. Good had visited Rev. W. H. Robinson (who had returned
from the United States married) at Kangwe, and had assisted
him in the church communion; and, that both of them had gone
to Libreville, for the meetings of mission and presbytery at
Baraka. Of course, I did not even think of leaving my five
months'-old babe, to go to those meetings, important as they
were, and though 1 was stated clerk of presbytery. For more
than twentv vears I had never failed in the duty of attendance.
A MOTHER-TASK 481
Next day, in the morning, a heavy tornado blew down several
large trees near the cottage ; and flung broken limbs, from a
very large tree, over the roof of Mary's house, tearing it in several
places. I immediately spent the day in repairing the roof ; and
set three men to cut down the large tree, at the east end of the
house. Baby was well and smiling, and trying to make articu- *
late sounds.
In the morning of Thursday, the 8th, I had to wait so long
for my breakfast (cook Alundo having gotten up late), that,
after calling several times for the food, I went out (all our
kitchens are detached, in Africa) and drove him from the
kitchen, and finished the cooking myself. I had been so patient
with him, that he was startled at his punishment, and was most
diligent in getting firewood and other kitchen-works all the re-
mainder of the day. On weighing baby, she did not measure
up to quite ten pounds. She would have gained more, had she
not been worn by a month's irritation of boils and other erup-
tions. But, these were over, and she was very well, slept almost
all the nights, and was awake most of the days. (But, the boils
frequently returned, during the next five years. In my own
experience also, I found that they were the alternative to exemp-
tion from the dangerous African- fever.) My demonstration
toward Alundo evidently impressed him ; he became prompt,
industrious, and respectful. The evening inquiry lesson was
on the building of Noah's Ark ; with thoughts on the church, as
God's Ark of Safety. After the meeting, the young men had
their own prayer-meeting, as usual ("Christian Endeavor"?).
I was becoming hungry for a mail. I had had nothing since
November 26 ; and, there were yet to come many responses to
my letters telling of Mrs. Nassau's death five months previously.
After evening prayers of Saturday, the 10th, Alundo came to
ask for baptism. He really seemed to understand the meaning
of the ordinance. I began to think that his acceptance of my
recent discipline of him was not simply fear, but a good recogni-
tion of his failings, and repentance therefor.
On Monday, the 12th, I found some Fan we women washing
themselves in the brook at the water-side. I did not use that
portion of the brook, as I took my water from the stream higher
up in its course (at Mrs. Nassau's pool) and nearer to the cot-
tage. But, my workmen took their drinking-water from that
lower portion. While I had no objection to the public taking
water from there, I did object to its being used also as a bath.
(Though, that was a common practice among all the natives.)
482 MY OGOWE
Mamba came respectfully to inquire whether there was not an
error in the weekly extra I gave him. At first, I told him there
was not : and he went away quietly. Then. I looked over my
accounts, and found that I did owe him two francs more a week
for the previous three weeks. It was a rare bit of respect he
had given me, in that he had not complained or been sullen.
After evening-prayers. I paid him the balance due.
In my longing for a mail, I had two disappointments; first,
when a canoe arrived from Ongamu at Njomtt; and, later, when
on Tuesday, the 13th, Mr. Gebauer from Lembarene, stopped to
call on me. But. no mail, by either. ( Xo one at Kangwe, to
attend to forwarding.)
Simbuve had been sick for several days; no medicine I gave
him seemed to do any good. I consented to his wish to go to
his people. Notwithstanding his occasional temper, he had
been a good worker. I paid him his monthly wages for Janu-
ary in full; and his year's contract (which was not due until
February) also in full, and presented him with $5. as he ex-
pected to return, and to contract for another year ( when he
would bring his wife with him), and loaned him a canoe and
crew (to be returned in two months) to take him to his home.
He started quietly, in the morning of the 15th. leaving me
very short-handed, only two workmen, besides the house-serv-
ants. Ankombie finally completed and launched the three canoes
on which he had been working. Four canoes, of the Bisa clan
of Faiiwe stopped for the night ; they were quiet. The natives
had learned that, though 1 welcomed them, and gave them
shelter on their journeys. I could not allow disorder.
On Friday, the 1 6th. 1 finished my clothes-mending that had
occupied me at intervals during many days.
Nyare came to pay Ankombie for the canoes; and. of course,
there was some disputing. Then. Ankombie and his people
came to say good-by to me. in the evening. But. he did not
even thank me for his two months' use of my huts. ( Though I
had paid them full wage, for whatever work they had done for
me.) The only remaining member of the inquiry class present
was Alundo; and he was not very attentive.
On Saturday, the 17th, 1 1 audi was not well, and I offered t<>
take care of baby Mary. But, she said that she would try to
keep up. The premises were very quiet, Ankombie and his
people being gone. The two pigs were rooting happily tor
worms in the mud at the water-side.
All the afternoon, I kept my babe, while flandi went, as
A MOTHER-TASK 483
usual with Maniba to the village visitations. While the babe
slept. I tried to read George Eliot's " Adam Bede." I had not
liked her "Felix Holt" and "Daniel Deronda." Nor, was T
pleased with "Adam Bede." The mastery over words, and the
description of feeling and of character were wonderful ; but, I did
not like its religious or even its moral influence.
On Monday, the 19th, Handi was really sick, and could not
work at all, except to wash and dress Mary, whom I attended
all day, except at meals, when Piti took my place. I did not
know what work, if any was going on, at the new outhouses.
I was becoming so hungry for a mail !
Wednesday, the 21st. was another crooked day: Handi still
sick. Cook Alundo began late. Did not wash the dining-
room, until time for cooking, which made dinner late. I found
that he had left eight or ten tins greasy and unwashed for a
month, and was using new utensils, being too lazy to wash the
old. When I told him to clean them, and brush up the kitchen,
he spent the entire afternoon at it: which made supper late.
Fortunately, baby Mary was good, except that she was restless.
and 1 could not understand her wants. I did not believe that she
was hungry, as T kept her regular hours for food. I suspected
the irritation of gums from coming teeth.
Xext day, I placed a bed-frame in the kitchen, for Handi. as
she wanted to lie near a fire (the custom o\ all the natives, when
they were ill). Fanwe were coming and going all day. Xyamba
and her daughter brought yams for sale. Young traders from
Xjalele came to buy hatchets. (The natives soon saw the
superiority of the American over the British tools.) There
came a canoe of people from Ndona-nyare, opposite Yeria.
Akendenge, a former employee, now a trader, came to visit his
brother Maniba. Akendenge's breath was redolent of liquor.
(Liquor was a stumbling block for our church-members, more
than their own native polygamy.) At night, there was a beau-
tiful moonlight. m T sat under it. alone, with many varied
thoughts: of my wife who had passed away; of her " little girl
(as she had called her with her dying breath) whom she had
left in my care: of the almost entirely completed houses I had
begun for her: and, how little of the comforts T had tried to
gather for her. she had lived to see.
A notable day, Friday, January 23. Just as T was investi-
gating a theft by cook Alundo, of some oatmeal (which had
made me late at dinner) was heard the whistle of the Okoia.
Putting a piece of batter-cake in my mouth. T ran down hill, to
484 MY OGOWE
get out the Swan. Akendenge helped me ; and he and Mamba
paddled me to the vessel's side. There were my sister, five of
her young men pupils, her household effects, my returned em-
ployee Ompwenge with three new ones, mv new six months'
supply of provisions, and a two months' mail ! I was over-
whelmed with the arrival of so many blessings. I landed all
the goods and furniture at Mary's house, at once ; and my sister
immediately occupied the room, which, in my plan I had desig-
nated " the spare-room." She was the first to enter the com-
pleted house! But, for the night, I returned to my babe in the
little bamboo cottage on the hill-side : and sat up late reading
my mail. They were, most of them, letters of condolence; from
natives in other parts of our field, fellow-missionaries, and rela-
tives and friends in the United States, twenty-eight in all : and
eight delayed letters for Mrs. Nassau. In my twenty-eight, the
notes of sympathy and kindness were complete, excepting in
two. They were meant to be kind, and really were so in words.
But, they came from persons, of whom I had such painful mem-
ory, that their present words of sympathy ("without any words
of reparation for wrongs) were marred by the memory of those
wrongs. I wished they had not written. I had tried to forget
them.
On Saturday, the 24th. T was very much exhausted by my
dav's work of arranging the interior of the new house. Almost
fell into the brook from one of the log bridges at the little
island, as I returned to my hill-side cottage at night.
On Sunday, the 25th, held the morning services on the front
porch of the new house ("more than twice as much space as on
the little porch of the cottage). Many Fanwe were present,
having come to see the new " white woman."
On Monday, the 26th, began to remove my own goods and
furniture from the cottage to Mary's house. And, my little
Mary entered into possession of the home that should have been
her mother's. T had intended to use my stored fireworks as a
combined celebration of her entering her new home and as a
welcome for my sister's arrival; but, the night was too stormy.
It was an immense relief to me. that coming of my sister.
She told me the long tale of events at the annual meetings at
Baraka; Mr. Reading was removed from Kangwe, to be mission
treasurer at Baraka; Rev. A. C. Good, with wife and infant
Albert, was transferred from Baraka to Kangwe. to be associated
with Rev. and Mrs. Robinson. And, my sister was transferred
from Kangwe to Talaguga (for reasons T have already men-
A MOTHER-TASK 485
tioned, irrespective of me or my child). It was inevitable that
she should leave Kangwe. Coming to me, she knew that I had
always given her the largest liberty. She would be unhampered
in all and any of her school plans. She would be given boat
and crew whenever she chose to go on a day's itineration. And,
in her taking charge of my domestic affairs, a great burden was
removed from my shoulders. I put my kitchen servants and
my provisions, unqualifiedly into her hands and control. Her
supervision of that work did not interfere with her teaching
hours. Nor, was there laid on her any greater burden, in car-
ing for my table, than she had had at Kangwe, in caring for her
own. I would be free to attend properly to the station and the
religious services. Only, there remained with me, the care and
control of my little Mary. Of this, my sister, in kindly offer-
ing to relieve me of the housekeeping, repeated what she had
told Mrs. Nassau a year previously. I thought that she was
entirely satisfied that it should be so. I certainly was. For, it
was true that she knew nothing of infants. And, I, after my
six months' experience of mothering, believed that I did know.
Therefore, she understood that she was to have no care or con-
trol of my child. Handi also understood perfectly that, though
we were in the new house, her and my relation to duty, care,
and control of the babe remained unchanged, viz. ( 1 ) the child
was under my sole control (2) except, in the event of my ab-
sence, when she was to be in Handi's (3) in all matters pertain-
ing to the child, Handi was to take orders only from me. With
this clear understanding, the Talaguga new household started
out on its career. [Well would it have been, if my sister had
abode by the terms she herself had dictated.]
The evening of Wednesday, the 28th, was clear, and the de-
ferred fireworks celebration was held with crackers, torpedoes,
pin-wheels, Roman candles, and rockets. In the afternoon of
Friday, the 30th, my sister, in the Nelly-Howard, went down-
river, to bring the last of her effects from Kangwe.
My little Mary was developing in activity and observation,
but, not much in weight. At the end of her sixth month, she
had added only six pounds to her original weight ; eleven pounds
was a small weight for a six months' old baby.
On Wednesday, February 11th, the Okota came, bringing
thirty boxes of my sister's effects. Herself, in the Nelly-How-
ard was coming more slowly, on an itineration among the vil-
lages. She returned on the afternoon of Saturday, the 14th.
On Tuesday, the 17th, I thought it desirable to make a cour-
486 MY OGOWE
tesy call on the new " Governor " at the post. Since the asser-
tion of the former commandant. Mons. Kerraoul, that the Xjoli
sentinel was set only against trade-men, and the decided apolo-
gies and regrets of Dr. Ballay and other officials. I thought
nothing of the existence of that sentinel, lint, again. I was
stopped, and with difficulty was allowed to pass. It was a long
pull, those five miles to Asange Island. I was anxious; for, I
had left my little Mary not very well. And. on my return, she
was worse. I changed her food, and her clothing.
On Saturday, the 21st. the Okota passed up, carrying De
Brazza, his people, and his goods, for another Interior expedi-
tion.
On Sunday, the 22(1. the Okota came down to its anchorage
across the river at Xyare's ; and. its captain in a hoat brought
me a barrel of rice from the French in payment of the tins of
meat they had bought three months before. Baby was in good
health again. For the first time, she actually laughed: all her
previous efforts had been only smiles.
There had been an unpleasant incident about Handi, on Mon-
day, the 23d. Notwithstanding my explicit statement to her.
when my sister came, that the latter was to have nothing to (}c>
with the babe, Handi suspicioned that 1 wished to get rid of
her! For two days she behaved very improperly. After an
unsatisfactory talk, she resumed her care of my babe.
In the afternoon of the next day. a French Roman Catholic
priest called, bearing a friendly message from I)e Brazza. Of
course, 1 treated the man politely, though I had no confidence
in his own expressions of friendship. At his request, I gave
him a copy of my Fail we primer.
It was so slow, waiting for natives to cut bamboo for build-
ing, and they .asked so much of a price, as if they were doing me
a great favor, that I ventured to leave the babe, now that she
was six months old. With a crew of seven, I went on the 26th
down as far as Njomu, to N\lona-nyare's ; and, leaving one to
guard the canoe, I went with the other six into the forest bam-
boo-palm swamp, and. under my eye. they rapidly cut a canoe-
load of fronds. That night, at the village, though I had given
the men a generous supply of fish, Piere stole. I did not dis-
cover the lo<> until next day. when loading the canoe. Believ-
ing that all were guilty. \ thought to punish them by depriving
them of meat for the day, and threw all the rations into the
river. I was much depressed about the very little conscience
even my educated people had about stealing. In the evening,
A MOTHER-TASK 487
after our return home, on investigating, Piere exonerated all
except Ompwenge; and said that himself had intended volun-
tarily to confess, and to pay a fine. .
On Thursday, March 5, just as I was starting to Njomu
again, I met the Okoia, I turned ; and, boarding the vessel, I
found Mr. Schiff quite sick. And, about noon, came the Gam-
bia, with a half-barrel of clothing from York, Pa., and tin boxes
of provisions for me, from Mrs. Nassau's United States friends,
and a box for my sister from our Lawrenceville, N. J., relatives.
I spent the afternoon in opening and examining the contents of
the half-barrel. It was from a missionary society in York,
Pa., under the leadership of the Small family, a gift to my baby
Mary. Her mother's death had aroused much sympathy in
missionary circles in the United States, and these friends, none
of them personal acquaintances, had generously and lovingly sent
their presents to my child. I wrote them a special acknowledg-
ment, which was published under the title, " That Little Half-
barrel."
Wearied with Alundo's laziness and thefts, I sent him away
on the Okota. And, then, I resumed my interrupted journey
of the day before. A pleasant young Galwa trader, Sika, had
his trading-house not far from Ndoiia-nyare's deserted village,
and, I stayed over-night with him, after the men with me in the
forest had done a good day's work. I had sat under the shade
of a tree, reading, and superintending them. While sitting there,
an antelope suddenly appeared, quite near to me. I returned
successfully the next day, having borrowed Sika's large canoe
(which I had to send back the following Monday, to recover my
own). On my return that Saturday, I found that De Brazza
had been at Talaguga to visit me, and to rest from his plans of
travel, he being not very well.
On Monday, the 9th, in the Swan, I went to the post on
Asange Island, to return De Brazza's call. There was no sen-
tinel on Njoli ! (I think that I saw the effect of the count's
finger.) I spent the day with De Brazza. and dined with him;
there being present also, the " Governor,"' four priests, and five
other white men. It made me very restless to think that, after
ten years in the Ogowe, I was no nearer the Interior than Tala-
guga, and that Roman Catholic missionaries, under the care and
the expense of the French government, that hampered our
schools and our preaching, were being carried past me, hundreds
of miles interiorward. On Wednesday, the 1 ith, Mr. Sinclair,
passing in the Gambia, stopped, and stayed to dinner with us.
488 MY OGOWE
The removal of my possessions from the cottage had been a
slow process. Finally, on the 13th, I brought Mrs. Nassau's
organ, that had stood untouched for so many months ; and, my
sister had it cleaned for use. Sika's wife, Mbaga, came to make
Handi a visit ; the latter at once interested herself in her, as
Handi's position with me was rather lonely and without compan-
ionship. She at once set herself to make dresses for her visitor.
On Monday, the 16th, my sister, in the Szvan with a crew of
five, went on an itineration down to Belambla. (To avoid repe-
tition, I mention, at this point, that similar itinerations were
made by her, in my place, during the following two years.)
Next day, my baby fretted a good deal in the afternoon, I
think Handi neglected her, being much occupied in the dress-
making for Sika's wife. Fiti had attached herself to my sister,
and was very diligent in complying with her orders about dust-
ing her room and the sitting-room. The child found a Goliath
beetle, larger than the one I had sent, about two years before,
by hand of Mr. Reading, to Dr. Lockwood of New Jersey.
On the 1 8th, many Fan we came from a village down-river,
below Erere-volo. Just after sunset, Sika's canoe came for his
wife, and she left immediately.
Next day, in the morning, came the Okota; it whistled,
slowed ; and, I went alongside, and was given a box containing a
very large mail, twenty-two of the letters coming from the
United States. After I had hastily read them all, I left my
workmen, and sat down to answer by the Okota expected on its
return from the post next morning. It was difficult to fix my
thoughts, after such a confusion of messages and loving words
from so many sources. But, if I did not write just then, prob-
ably there would be no other opportunity of sending to Le-
mbarene for two weeks.
The next day, I had my mail all ready before prayers, and
sent it by one of my men, in a canoe which I loaned to a native
trader, who was going down near to Yefia, where the Okota
expected to stop. For, vessels would slow for me, coming up
stream, which they could readily do. while they were battling
with a swift current. But, on their way down stream, they
would not stop. When my man returned, he brought back the
letters. For some stupid reason, he had failed to go to the
steamer. I was so indignant, that, fearing lest my tongue
should go amiss, T said nothing to him for two days. My sis-
ter returned in the evening, with an account of the difficulties she
had experienced at Belambla.
A MOTHER-TASK 489
On Saturday, the 21st, I had to tear down part of the wall of
one of the outhouses that had been badly built when I left the
men to themselves, to write my letters on the 19th. It would
have been better had I told them to sit down and do nothing.
In the afternoon, Handi accidentally let the baby slip from her
lap, and the child's head struck against the hub of the wheel of
her carriage, and two lumps were raised on the forehead. She
cried hard; but, soon was comforted., It was the first accident
she had had.
On Sunday, the 22d, my baby was well and happy. In the
twilight of the evening, I felt very lonely, as I sat humming to
myself the hymns which had been favorites with the child's
mother.
In the afternoon of Tuesday, the 24th, came Sika with his
wife, to make complaint against cook Mbigino, for having tried
to induce her, while she was visiting Handi, to abandon her hus-
band. I did not take part in the discussion. Such affairs were
common. It was possible that Mbigino was guilty.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
My mother-task had prevented any long journey, for eight
months. I felt that my brain needed some change of vision.
I decided to go down to the quarterly communion at Kangwe
(though I had no responsibility in the charge of that church).
My little babe, almost eight months old, I would not take with
me ; for, the latter rainy season was on, a season of storms.
And, Handi promised to give her special care. I had made all
preparations on the previous day ; and, in order to make the run
in one day, I arose at 3 a. m. of Friday, the 27th, quietly called
the crew, dressed, and loaded the boxes, etc., etc., into the boat,
without disturbing either my sister or Handi. Little Mary did
not wake, until just as I was ready to leave. I took her, fondled
her, handed her to Handi to be fed, and with good-by to my
sister, started at 4.30 a. m., leaving her in charge of the house.
I went out into the darkness with lonely thoughts. 'Would
Handi be sure to take care of my little one? I stopped at many
places on the way, with various errands. At the Benga trader's,
Uduma, and heard that a young Benga man, Imunga (who
subsequently became a pupil of my sister), was there. Below
Erere-volo, met the Okota, and Mr. Schiff handed me a few
letters. At Laseni's new T place near Abange by 9.30 a. m., and
rested there three hours, and ate breakfast. On to Belambla,
for a few minutes, and heard of Bayio's canoe being shot at.
4<>o MY OGOWE
and one of his crew killed, and that Mburu, brother of one of
my crew, Awora, was wounded. By 5 p. m., was opposite the
Ngunye mouth. A bright 6 p. m. sunset. But a heavy oppos-
ing - wind met us as we approached Andende at 7 p. m. Were
welcomed by Mrs. Good with her infant Albert, and Mrs. Rob-
inson.
Xext day, Saturday, there was session meeting in the morn-
ing, at which Mr. Go<xl invited me to be present. But, in pur-
suance of my usual custom of carefully refraining from taking
part in the affairs of another's station, I declined. T walked
around to see the changes of the preceding months, including
the handsome new houses that Mr. Reading had built. There
was preparatory service in the afternoon, at which Mr. Good
preached. After which, Mrs. Robinson kindly played for me
some pieces of secular music, which she had just brought from
the United States, but which were entirely new to me.
On Sunday, the 29th, the church services were late in l>egin-
ning; the arrangements for the orderly distribution of the ele-
ments were not well made, which detracted from the solemnity
of the communion. Tn accordance with my view of ecclesi-
astical courtesy, which T had held toward Rev. Dr. Bushnell in
the organization of the first Ogowe church. T regarded myself
as in Mr. Good's parish, and I brought the Talaguga converts
to Andende. to be examined by the session there. As a result.
Ompwenge, Simbuve. and Mbuvago of my Galwa people were
baptized. 1 hoped for a church at Talaguga when Fanwe hearts
should be softened. Awora went down to Igenia with his
wounded brother Mburu. At evening worship. I was seized
with violent pains something like ptomaine poisoning.
On Monday, the 30th. got a supply of goods from Mr. Rob-
inson, out of the Andende store: took from the Mill my few
remaining things, and settings of shaddock trees, which I had
planted near the spring, years before.
The next day. went with Mr. Good to make calls on the gen-
tlemen of the Lembarene trading houses; stayed for dinner at
the German house, where also were several other traders, by
invitation. It was a streak of civilization, with which T was
not familiar at Talaguga! Returning. I packed my boxes
for the home journey; and led the prayer-meeting in the even-
ing.
Mrs. Nassau's death having made necessary a change in my
will, though there was no legal notary, before whom to subscribe
the document. I thought best to make one. signed by Mr. and
A MOTHER-TASK 491
Mrs. Good, and Mr. and Mrs. Robinson, which might possibly
be accepted as legal, in case of my death.
The Okota was going up the Ngunye, and Mr. Good wished
to make an excursion there. Rising at 3.45 a. m. of Thursday,
April 2, I had my boat laden, and was off with him by 6 a. m. ;
and around the island, at Lembarene by 7 a. m. to the Okota.
The steamer towed me; and, at 9 a. m. T cast off, as the vessel
turned into the Ngunye. Proceeding up the Ogowe, I stopped
at Mr. Ermy's, for a sheep belonging to my sister; was over-
taken by a tornado; and reached Belambla by 7 p. m. I felt so
lonely, in the deserted dwelling, with a memory of the desola-
tions of the past, that T left the house, and slept in the boat.
A trader, Azile, was living near by. Xaturally, T was unre-
freshed on Friday morning, and was in a low state of mind and
heart; and, the crew were slow. A French stern-wheel steamer
passed us. Stopped to eat at Xjagu-demba's old town. Saw
Laseni at a villag'e, and went to his house, and sent my people
into the forest-gardens to buy plantains. Stayed at Laseni 's for
the night; in the evening enjoying the singing of English hymns
with him and his wife.
On Saturday, the 4th, started late. Laseni gave me a quarter
of the sheep he had killed for my arrival. Ate in the forest,
near Erere-volo. Stopped at Sambunaga's. to debark a passen-
ger. Passed Vena under sail (the first time a sail had appeared
in that part of the river). And. at dusk, there being signs of
storm, unloaded the boat at Mavyan's village. And. though so
near to my home, remained there over Sunday, holding services.
In the afternoon, there was an alarm of an elephant discovered
in the gardens.
Xext day, Monday, the 6th, re-loading the boat, the crew, in
good humor, took to the oars (they had been using paddles,
with which they were more familiar). And, were at Talaguga
by 11 a. m. T found my little Mary fatter than when T left her.
ten days previously, and well, except that she had had a large
boil on her back, and, just then, a cold in her head and slight
cough. While I was away, two of my sister's own men had left
her service. In the afternoon, a canoe from the Benga, Uduma.
stopped to see Handi : and those two men, with two more whom
sister had loaned to me in my crew, secretly deserted with
Lduma's people. Tt looked as if there was a conspiracy on his
part. Tt was just another illustration of the great difficulty
there was in obtaining and retaining workmen at Talaguga.
Tt was not because of my personality that employees had left
492 MY OGOWE
me. And those four young men were apparently devoted to
my sister while she was at Kangwe. But, Kangwe's market
was full in quantity and variety of food. Talaguga's food-sup-
ply had ever been with me, short, and was still difficult, even
after more than three years' residence there. When I let loose
my sister's sheep on the premises, it was much afraid of my two
pigs.
On Tuesday, the 7th, at the monthly weighing of my babe,
I was glad to see in the fourteen pounds, a slight increase over
the previous regular one pound per month. I set out the little
trees I had brought from Kangwe.
At evening prayer-meeting, I called for prayer on Ompwenge
and Simbuve, the newly-baptized church-members. I had always
seen natives playing with kuda-nut balls, twirling them, as tops
by a curious position of the thumb and first finger of each hand,
but I had never succeeded in the trick, until that evening.
I tried to buy of a passing canoe, some porcupine meat (deli-
cate and tender). But, the owner wanted percussion-caps, or
brass-tacks, or brass-wire, or brass-jewelry, none of which I had
in the stock of goods in my little store-room.
In those days, at all our stations, all purchases and payments
were made only in goods. It was a cheap system, but a very
troublesome one. The article most commonly desired by the
natives, and with which food could always be obtained, was
tobacco-leaf. It was dealt in by most missionaries (though none
of us used it). At Mrs. Nassau's wish I refrained from dealing
in it ; localise of my adhering to that principle, we often were
in want.
In the afternoon of Friday, the 10th, the Akele came; and,
not finding their house ready at Nyare's, it came over to my
side, and asked me for storage room. Its officers brought their
towed cutter alongside my landing, and the white trader (for-
merly on the Bata coast in the Benita region) and the captain
took supper with me, and the former remained over-night in my
new house. I sat up late, writing letters to go by the Akele;
a special one to my friend lawyer James S. Aitkin, of Trenton,
N. J., who kindly attended to my legal business. For several
days, I had had an undefined dread of some coming evil. It
came, after evening-prayers of the 15th, when Simbuve, who.
twenty-four hours before had pleasantly consented to remain,
in a certain increase of wages, as a contract for a year, came
and demanded more. I pointed out his cupidity; his falseness,
in breaking the bargain he had just made; his small return for
A MOTHER-TASK 493
the favors I had shown him at the close of his previous year;
my missionary instruction of him ; and his christian profession.
On Saturday, the 18th, the Okota came, bringing Mr. and Mrs.
Good and their infant son, on a visit.
In the afternoon of Monday, went with Mr. Good, on a tramp
up the mountain, to the source of the brook, whose water we
drank near its junction with the Ogowe. We returned very
wet, with specimens of what we believed to be iron, sulphur,
coal, and plumbago. Of the iron I was positive; for, its red
stain was deposited on the banks of the stream, and it constantly
was seen in the iron cooking-vessels of my kitchen. The plum-
bago Mr. Good sent to a friend in Pittsburg, Pa., who wrote
back that it was real (though inferior).
On Wednesday, the 22(1, I celebrated the arrival of my guests,
by a display of fire-crackers. Next day, Mr. Good took his
wife and my sister, on an excursion to Njoli Island. And, on
Saturday, the 25th, he kindly made himself useful, by cleaning
the inside works of Mrs. Nassau's organ ; and, it again pro-
duced its sounds correctly. On Monday, the 27th, he left, on
an excursion to Belambla.
On Wednesday, the 29th, Ompwenge, who had been acting
strangely, came and made a confession ; and restored himself
to my confidence. But, next day, Simbuve, who, for two weeks
had been conducting himself sullenly, treated me so insultingly,
that I dismissed him, temporarily, from his work. It was fre-
quent that employees were neglectful, sometimes disobedient,
occasionally disrespectful. But. it was rare that they were in-
sulting to me. It was pay day, for the entire household ; I paid
him with the others. As I had given him time to reflect, and
he came with no apology, in the evening I told him that he
should no longer work for me. He was defiant; and left my
premises.
On Friday. May 1, both the babes were sick; and Mr. Good's
servant-girl refused to help with the carrying of little Albert.
Simbuve dared to attempt to use my carpenter-shop ; and, being
refused, took little Ambaga. with him, and went to Nvare's.
Had he made any expression of regret, I would have forgiven
him. Mr. Good returned from Belambla late in the afternoon.
And, in the evening, he told me that Simbuve had been to see
him, and wished to have a conference with us two. I declined.
Simbuve knew well that I was always merciful to the repentant ;
he could have come to me without the interference of any one
else. And, if his object was to justify himself, I refused to be
494 MY OGOWE
judged by either him or Mr. Good. My little Mary had quite
a high fever, which, complicated with a boil on her spine, kept
her sick for several days.
On Monday, the 4th, Mr. Good wished to go hunting; but,
at my suggestion, he was contented to take my rifle, and shoot
one of my pigs. So, we had fresh meat for several days.
One of my standing rules was, that, however much my people
might quarrel among themselves, there should be no striking.
( That, was my prerogative, on only very rare occasions.) On
the 6th, cook Mbigino struck Fiti. T waited for him to come
and express regret. As he did not, in the evening I called him ;
and, his offense being aggravated by his striking a female and
one much smaller than himself, I fined him $1.00 (trade). He
promptly paid it.
On Thursday, the 7th, was up at 3 A. m., to get Mr. Good's
crew and boat in order, so that he and his family, by starting
before 6 a. m. might make the run to Andende in one day.
Sent my people to Yeiia for bamboo. This was " weighing-
day " for my little Mary; 9 months i(> pounds.
Tn the morning of the 8th, came a man in a small canoe,
with a mail, who said that it had been brought by the Gambia,
which was at the mulatto trader. Walker's, about a mile down-
river (where Laseni, and Mr. Gallibert, had formerly lived),
and that there were boxes there for me. Nyare and several of
his women were at the house just at the time, asking medicine
for his little boy. my namesake " Nasfi." 1 took three of the
women to paddle for me in a small canoe, to Walker's; and
returned with two of the boxes. Most of Walker's people were
drunk. Opening the boxes immediately, \ found that one of
them was from the United States, presents of little garments,
from my sisters Mrs. Gosman and Mrs. Swan, for their niece
Mary. Late in the afternoon, came the Akclc. On its way. it
had kindly picked up and towed my bamboo-laden canoe. As
soon as the bamboo was landed, 1 turned the crew around, and
went again to Walker's, returning with a church-bell, and two
large boxes of furniture. Xot until night came bad 1 time to
read my large mail of 13 letters from the I'nited States, besides
others from fellow -missionaries and native friends.
Next day, Saturday, in the morning, the . Ikclc, with the
schooner she had been towing, came to my landing, and loaded
off the goods that had been left with me in storage a month be-
fore. I Mere and his wife left on the .Ikclc. They were not
in friendly relations with even their fellow-workmen. The two
OGOWE FIRST CHURCH, AXDENDE (SIDE VIEW)
Facing page 495
A MOTHER-TASK 495
men whom I directed to take them in a canoe to the vessel, did
so unwillingly. I had always appreciated that Talaguga was a
lonely place for my employees. They wanted company, after
their day's work. And, I had often allowed them to take my
canoes, and visit the adjacent trading-houses. But, those
houses had hecome so numerous, and the liquor-drinking so ex-
cessive, that, on Monday, the 10th. I announced to my house-
hold, at evening-prayers, that, while I could not forbid them to
make their visits. I would not encourage them by allowing any
longer the use of my canoes.
In the morning of Friday, the 15th. came the Okota. It
brought me nothing but an insulting letter from run-away cook,
Mbigino. saying that he would not return, unless I refunded him
the dollar I had fined him for striking Fiti. (Doubtless some
influence from Simbuve, who continued his annoyances, from
Nyare's. )
I never yielded to threats.
Sunday, the 17th, was a day of confusion. My people heard
that little Ambaga (who had been taken away by Simbuve,
when he left me, to live at Nyare's. with the trader Antyuwa)
had been wounded by the latter with a paddle. Tn the excit-
able way in which the natives rush to their sick friends, they
all wanted to go to Nyare's. As the wound was not at all seri-
ous, and they were not going with medicine, but only out of
curiosity, T did not consider it was a case of " necessity or
mercy." (But. T gave them the canoe, next day.)
I watched and noted every development in my little Mary.
Up to Wednesday, the 20th. she always expected to go to her
crib immediately after the evening bath. Bui, now, she stayed
awake, to see and hear things until 9 p. vr. And, at evening-
prayers, she began to make attempts to join in the singing.
Yambala. the chief of the Okota town of Tsangaladi, twenty
miles u|>-river. near the beginning of the Rapids, came to see me.
My heart always fluttered with excitement when people from
the Interior visited me. Tsangaladi was the spot T had thought
of. in T882. as the real first Interior station, for which Talaguga
was to be only a way-station. I gave the old man gifts: and
T hoped that he would be able to supply me with work-people
more reliable than the touchy Galwas.
I was never able to understand how Simbuve and Ompwenge.
to whom I had given go much instruction, had been patient with
their faults, and had shown them favor, and had been the means
of bringing them in the church, should so suddenly after that
496 MY OGOWE
tender occasion, have turned against me with unusual unkind-
ness and disrespect.
Handi was sick and had been able to do nothing at all for
the babe all day, even as to the morning and evening bath.
I too attended to that, the first time in the babe's life; for, how-
ever sick or unwilling Handi may have been at times, she had
at least attended to Mary's bath. Baby did not cry at all in my
hands during the process, nor until near her sleepy hour of 9
p. m. I washed her and played with her in the games she kept
up to that hour, until Handi was well again on the third day.
I was glad to take it as a sign of my baby's growth and vigor.
On the 25th, the little wounded Ambaga (only a slight wound)
was sent to me to care for and medicate. As Simbuve had
taken the child from me, I declined, until Simbuve himself would
bring him back.
In the afternoon of the 27th, the Gambia came, with a supply
of farinya and trade-cloth, and letters from Kangwe. Mr.
Robinson was seriously ill. Next day, Mary's first tooth was
beginning to appear. In the afternoon of Friday, the 29th, Sika
came, bringing his wife Mbaga, on another visit to Handi.
With her was a little dog that very much attracted Mary's at-
tention. Mbaga had also a little Fanwe boy. whom she had res-
cued from being thrown away in the forest, because he had no
relatives to take care of him.
Mary no longer was satisfied with indoors ; she enjoyed being
nut of doors, now that the rains had ended. One of the young
citron trees I had planted near the cottage, was already fruiting.
JOURNEY TO MR. ROBINSON.
On Tuesday, June 2, at ir a.m., came an English trader,
Mr. Seddons, in the Gambia, sent by Mr. Good, to call me to
Mr. Robinson's dangerous condition. The fact that he was
still alive, after a week of African fever, gave me a slight hope.
(One of the two " African fevers " is sometimes fatal in three
days.) Tn half-an-hour, I had given directions to my house-
hold, taken a change of clothing, and was on the Gambia, hast-
ing down-river the sixty-five miles to my sick friend. Reached
Andende at 5.30 p. m. The good little launch had made eleven
miles per hour. Fortunately, the water in the river was yet
high, and we were not troubled to slow in the shallow channels,
as in the two dry seasons. I arranged with Mr. Good a course
of medicine for Mr. Robinson, and took half of the night in
watching.
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OGOWE FIRST CHURCH, ANDENDE (REAR VIEW)
facing page 497
A MOTHER-TASK 497
The next day, Wednesday, the 3d, Mr. Robinson's symptoms
were such that I believed his life was in danger. Everything in
the way of medicine had been tried, apparently without success.
He begged earnestly for a cold bath, his skin being so hot and
dry (though the weather was pleasantly cool). As a last re-
sort, I consented; and prepared the tub of water at his bed-
side, lifted him into it, hastily bathed him, for only a few min-
utes ; and, then, without drying away the water, covered him
with blankets in the bed. In half an hour he was sleeping nat-
urally, and lying in a profuse perspiration. I believe that it
saved him. Mr. Sinclair kindly called to see him.
Next day, the 4th, the Falaba came from Gaboon ; only our
letters were sent around from Lembarene. So, on Friday, the
5th, I went there for the newspapers, the remainder of our mail,
and some boxes for Mr. Good.
On Saturday, the 6th, the French gun-boat. Turquoise, with
its officers, came on a visit of sympathy to Mr. Robinson.
The bamboo-church, which I had begun on the Kangwe hill-
side, had fallen, under the ravages of white ants. Mr. Good
had just completed a new church of American planks, near
Andende. I preached in it on Sunday, the 7th.
On Tuesday, the 9th, Mr. Good went around to Mr. Stein's
(of a second German house) for his goods that had come by the
Falaba, and the Fan. And, in the afternoon, Messrs. Stein and
Crossman and a Capt. F. of Kamerun, called at Andende,
in the Akelc, and offered Mr. and Mrs. Robinson passage on the
Fa/7 to Gaboon, for Mr. Robinson to convalesce at the sea-side.
They went. [He recovered, but not sufficiently to remain in
Africa.] Mr. Sinclair offered me passage back to Talaguga, on
the Gambia.
RETURN TO TALAGUGA OX THE Gambia.
On Wednesday, the 10th, went around to Lembarene, early,
boarded the Gambia, with two boxes for my sister, some lug-
gage of my own. and half a barrel of oranges kindly sent by
Rev. G. C. Campbell from the Baraka trees. The launch was
towing six large canoes of its own trades-peoples' goods. It
slowed for me at Belambla. that I might give a letter to Aveya.
who was again in charge of the premises. By 8 p. m. anchored
at Laseni's.
Xext day, starting early at 5 A. M., and stopping at various
places to set off the canoes, we were at Talaguga by 12 noon.
The Gambia still had other errands of its own; but, it kindlv
498 MY OGOWE
waited for me. Taking only a little while to fondle my baby,
after my nine days' absence, I shot the pig, dressed it, and re-
taining only a quarter, sent the other three to Mr. Sinclair, Mr.
Good, and the engineer ; the head, for the Kru crew ; and the
viscera and remnants for my own people. Discharged some
thatch which I had obtained from Mr. Sinclair: wrote two hasty
letters. And, then the launch was off and away ; and I sat down
to my dinner at 2 p. m.
On Saturday, the 13th, during my sister's absence in the vil-
lage, Fiti, whom I had defended against Mbigino's violence, I
had to punish for the same offense against the little boy Evave.
Baby, though in tolerably good health, still often had boils.
On the 15th, I had to open a " blind " one on her left shoulder-
blade that had been troubling her for a week. The thought was
some sort of a comfort, that I had observed that boils were an
apparent substitute for the more dangerous malarial fever.
But, I also was in a bad condition. The dry season chigoes,
though I extracted them from my feet, left ulcers that made me
lame. Baby slept well at night, generally. I would have con-
sidered her entirely well, but, for a little cough that had hung
on to her for several weeks.
On Sunday, the 21st, the Okota came, bringing, to my great
relief. Mamba, his wife and child, and Awora (returned), and
two other young men. Mamba arrived in time for me to ar-
range that he should take charge of the station, during my pro-
posed absence at Kangwe.
On Tuesday, the 23d, T packed a large box of native curiosi-
ties to be sent to friends in the United States.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
On Thursday, the 25th, in the Nclly-Hotvard. with my sister,
Handi and the babe, a large crew, and crowded with baggage.
bedding, etc., etc.. for baby's comfort and protection. Tt was
her first boat-journey. She fretted at the confinement, and . I
stopped ashore at various places to rest her: staying for the
night at Belambla. Xe.xt day. had a comfortable dinner at Mr.
Smith's island "factory" (formerly Mr. John Ermy's). Had
the usual dread of hippos near the Xgunye mouth (that always
was infested by them, in the two dry seasons), and reached
Andende house safely at 4 p. m., just as the congregation were
emerging from the church preparatory service.
On the 27th, another afternoon service; and. a mail came in
the evening.
A MOTHER-TASK 499
Sunday, the 28th, my little girl was baptized by Rev. A. C.
Good, under her mother's full name, Mary Brunette Foster
Nassau. It was a tender service. Standing by me, in the com-
pany who had brought their infants for baptism, was the man
Mentyua-yongwe ; later, a ruling elder. [Now an efficient
and faithful evangelist.] The joy of the day, in the baptism
of my daughter, was increased by the good news that had
come in the mail, of my son William's profession of his faith
in Christ.
Dreading the four days' pull up-river, for the comfort of my
babe I went, on July 1st, around to Lembarene, to inquire as to
the possibility of some steamer soon going up. Mr. Crossman
offered me passage on the Akclc. Mr. Good and I dined at
Mr. SchifFs. And I won his clerk's, Mr. Gebauer's, gratitude
(that continued years later, when he had risen from a clerkship
to an agency) by lancing for him a very painful boil that was
too dangerously near to the blood-vessels of his axilla, for him
to do it himself.
The next day, I sent around my boat that was to be towed,
to lie ready by the Akclc. And early in the morning of Friday,
the 3d, Mr. Good took me in his Montclair, to the Akclc that
was awaiting us near the Roman Catholic mission at the head
of the island. My sister remained at Andende, to complete her
visit with Mrs. Good. Baby was very good all day. And.
stopping several times for the vessel to discharge goods at its
trading-houses, we anchored for the night at Laseni's, where I
took her ashore to sleep in his house.
But. next morning, we were early off to the Akclc, so as not
to delay the captain when he should l>e ready to start. We
were at our home, early in the afternoon. The captain was
very obliging, and would have drawn in to my beach ; but, I had
him go on to his own " factory " at Xyare's ; whence, it was
very easy for me to drop with my boat down the few hundred
yards to my own Talaguga.
My feet were in a very bad state: and. at night, a fever-chill
seized me. In getting up. as usual, to attend to my Mary, dur-
ing the night. I could not stand, but crept on my hands and
knees. It was the worst night I had with her since her birth.
For two weeks I was not able to wear a shoe.
On Wednesday, the 22d, I allowed Mamba. to take Awora,
and go down-river, to settle some quarrel about his dead brother
Sambunaga and a mulatto trader " Harry," of Mr. Schiff's
house. And, in the evening, came Mr. Schiff with the Okota
500 MY OGOWE
and his Mpongwe trader, Mwalele, asking for storage of his
goods and a house for Mwalele and wife, until their own house
should be prepared in one of the villages. I was up, until 1 1
p. m.. at the landing and stowing of the goods. How the river
had changed in four years! Then, I was alone, and in the ad-
vance! Now, traders were in the Interior and all around me!
In the morning of Thursday, the 23d, came Mr. Good, bring-
ing my sister, in the Montclair; and he returned to Kangwe.
On Wednesday, the 29th, I gave a holiday to my household.
Sent the Swan and two canoes and most of my people, with my
sister, to enjoy themselves fishing, up-river, with net and hooks.
They returned in the afternoon with a large turtle and a few
fish. Again, I sent the company, on Saturday, August 1, (but,
this time, down-river) to try their fishing chances near Sanjala.
That night, came the Okota with Mrs. Good and her infant, and
Mr. Good who was sick with fever. Hastily made some changes
into my study, and put him in my room, as he was too weak to
go up-stairs to " the stranger's room " in the attic. There came
also, to work with me, a stout man, Mburu, from Wombalya,
and his wife Azize, whom I remembered, from Kangwe days, as
the wife of one of Re-Nkombe's men, Oguma.
Monday, the 3d. A busy day. In the afternoon, Mwalele
came with Okota workmen, and removed the goods Mr. Schiff
had stored with me for him. In the evening, Mbamba returned,
having been away longer than I or he had expected. I feared
also that he had been drinking; his breath was suspicious. Mr.
Good was better. There was noisy dancing at the trading-
houses across the river. Next day, I talked with Mamba; and,
he acknowledged that he had been drinking. He seemed
ashamed and repentant.
Wages having been paid on the previous Saturday, Ompwenge
and three others left, orderly, on Wednesday, the 5th, and a
fifth deserted. Rather a doleful day: neither my sister nor I
nor Handi were well. Things were still slow on the 6th. and
almost everybody sick. Mr. Good only slowly improving.
Friday, the 7th. The monthly " weighing days " were ended,
and we kept Mary's birthday first anniversary. Handi was still
lying down, and I took care of Mary all day; and. my sister
made a little dinner and cake for the day. But, the next day,
the anniversary of Mrs. Nassau's death. I kept, by myself
quietly, and did not obtrude my thoughts on others of the house-
hold, who had their own burdens.
On Monday, the 10th. Akendenge came on a visit; I engaged
A MOTHER-TASK 501
him as steward (a new office) to relieve my sister in some of
her superintendence of the younger and incompetent house-
servants. Handi continued sick. A canoe came on the 13th,
from her Benga trade-friend, Uduma (to whom she had se-
cretly sent word), and she went away with him, taking with her
Fiti, and making no explanations. It looked like desertion. I
was hurt; and did not know what to say. For, she had come
to me in a fearful time of need only a year before; and, had
given me aid, that however sometimes imperfect, was invalu-
able, considering that no other living soul had offered to assist
me with my child. During one of these nights, the whole house
was invaded by an army of driver ants.
The next day, Friday, the 14th, my sister finally gave up, and
went to bed, sick with neuralgia in her face.
On Saturday, the 15th, Mr. Good, after his two weeks' rest
and medication, was recovered, and left with his family, early
in the morning. A few hours later, I was rejoiced by the ar-
rival of a young man, Etendi, with two lads, to enter my service.
He remained with me several years, generally faithful, and most
of the time a good cook.
In Handi's absence, I had hired Mburu's wife, Azize, to wait
on Mary; but, baby would not "take to" her. She missed
Handi.
The employees, though few, began their Monday work with a
good will, and in harmonious action. Little Mary was chang-
ing her " fashions," and now took only two naps in the day-
time.
Wednesday, the 19th. Mary still persisted in refusing to
accept Azize as nurse. In the afternoon, in going all around
the premises-line, to put it in distinct order, I found that a citron
had ripened on the tree at the cottage. The tree bearing that
ripened fruit grew from a seed I had taken from a fruit gath-
ered at Old Calabar, in Mrs. Sutherland's garden, about Decem-
ber 1, 1 88 1. Less than four years! The most rapid growing
of any fruit tree I had planted in Africa. Little Mary's teeth
still troubled her. And my sister's neuralgia proved to be a
hollow tooth.
On Friday, the 21st, the Okota came with a few letters from
fellow-missionaries,- and (most valuable!) a box of milk. Mr.
SchifT, who, for years had been kind and helpful to me, was
displeased because of a letter I had written to the French com-
mandant defending Mamba in his difficulty with Mr. Schiff's
man " Harry." (I had said nothing against Mr. SchifT.) I
5 o2 MY OGOWE
believed that Mamba was being- unjustly treated, and Mr. Schiff
was equally sure that his man was in the right. He retained
the grudge long afterwards.
On Wednesday, the 26th, a canoe came from the Gambia
lying at Walker's, with a few things from Kangwe, and a box
from my brother-in-law, Rev. A. Gosman, D.D.. which had
l>een brought to Libreville by an American vessel, Cardenas, and
which Air. Sinclair had kindly forwarded. In the evening there
were some native visitors ; and I gave out firecrackers for the
company to amuse themselves.
By September, baby Mary was becoming less unwilling to go
with Azize. I began to make a change in her bed ; her cradle-
crib had become too small.
On Saturday, September 5, sent Mamba and two others in a
small canoe, down-river, for a ten days' absence, on several
errands ; among others, to go to Wambalva, to try to get me
a cook.
Early in the morning of Sunday, the 6th, the very large
Erench steamer Pionnier passed up. And shortly afterward, a
messenger from Mr. Sinclair on the Gambia at Walker's, came
with a present of fruit, and vegetables from his own garden at
Lembarene, tomatoes, lettuce, etc.
In the evening of the 8th. heard from a passing canoe, which
was saluting and announcing items of news, that Handi was
soon coming back. I could scarcely believe it.
Xext day, my sister was busy cutting out garments for little
Joseph, son of Xtinosam, wife of Mamba. At night. Mary was
put into a new bed, the third since her birth. I had taken a
single iron bedstead, and built wooden sides on to it, to prevent
the child from falling out. She was well and happy; she slept
better in her new bed.
On Sunday, the 13th, quite a company at services; Xjalele
and his people ; Antyuwa and his ; Xyare and his retinue. He
left with my sister, a little girl, Bilaga. This was the first Ea-
nwe (excepting the lad Mveli of three years before) who had
been given to reside at the station, for instruction. It made me
\w(\ glad, after all the hard unimpressionability of the Fanwe. I
hoped that it was the beginning of God's good things for Tala-
guga. Heard from Antyuwa that Handi was certainly coming
in two days. That was another thing for which to give thanks.
On the 15th, there came another present of vegetables from
Mr. Sinclair, cabbage, carrots, beets, eggplant, lettuce, ruta-
baga, etc.
A MOTHER-TASK 503
And, at night, by Uduma's canoe, Handi returned ! Glad as
I was to have her, I purposely did not show any enthusiasm, be-
yond ordinary politeness. When she retired at night, I told her
that I wished to have a talk with her in the morning, before she
resumed her place with my child. (I did not think it right to
ignore the manner in which she had deserted me, almost on the
anniversary of Mrs. Nassau's death.)
Next day, I had my talk with her. It was not as satisfactory
as I could have wished. But, I placed her again in entire charge
of Mary, with some alteration as to hours and places. Mary
was very good again with Handi ; and, I had time to write a
long letter to Mrs. Nassau's friends of the Barnegat New Jer-
sey W. M. F. Society. And, on the 18th, I planted two coco-
nut trees, one each at the head and foot of the grave. I said
for her :
" And when I come, to stretch me, for the last,
In unattended agony, beneath the coco's shade,
It will be sweet that I have toiled
For other worlds than this,"
On Saturday, the 19th, Mr. Schiff came on his Akclc, on his
way to Okota, having been ordered to remove his trader Mwalele,
whom he had placed there in the latter part of July. The for-
bidden line of trade had been removed from Njoli Island to
the post at Asange, three miles farther up-river.
People from the Interior were to bring their products to that
post as a market, and would meet and do their bargaining with
the trader, there. The vessel brought me a mail of ten letters
from the United States, and five from fellow-missionaries ; a
wreath of artificial flowers for Mrs. Nassau's grave from Mrs.
Bushnell, and presents from her and Mrs. Marling for Mary; a
box of milk ; and notice that my semi-annual order of supplies
had arrived at Mr. Sinclair's new Aguma house, Lembarene.
And, in the evening, returned Mamba. What an abundance of
blessings in one day!
I did not go to Kangwe, for the regular quarterly commu-
nion. I would not go without my little Mary, who was not
well (her new milk did not agree with her), and, in the opening
of the rainy season, there would have been daily rains on the
journey.
Monday, the 28th. The woman Azize, for several clays, had
been mourning for the death of a sister. Heard that the man
Amvam. at Nvare's. was riving, and was " out of his mind."
504 MY OGOWE
The people were mourning for him as dead. And, yet, I was
told that they intended to cast the still living body into the for-
est. I understood all that better, later. Of the four entities
which the Africans believed constituted a human personality,
viz., Soul, Dream-soul, Heart-life, and Body, only the Soul was
immortal. When it left the body, the person was dead, even
though certain activities of the other three entities, for a few
hours, or even days, gave the semblance of life. Under similar
circumstances, once on Corisco, a man had come to me for
medicine " to quiet " his mother, as she " was dead," and it was
time to bury her! Evidently, Amvam was unconscious, but
still his b(xly was making some motions. At that time, burial
in a grave was not common. The usual mode, after death, was
for the corpse to be laid on the ground in some dense thicket
of the forest. And the birds, and wild beasts, and driver ants
did their duty as scavengers.
On the 30th, heard that the French steamer Pionnier had gone
to Okota, to burn some of the villages that had resisted the re-
moval of Mwalele's trading-house. The next day, October 1,
heard that Amvam, though thrown into the forest, was still
living.
The man Mamba had been most reliable during my Kangwe
days. After that, he was equally Mr. Reading's right-hand
man at the Andende house. Mr. Reading having removed to
Libreville, Mamba had again entered my employ. A very great
help to me. Barred as I was from travel, and deprived of the
thoughtful assistance Mr. Reading had always been, in doing
errands for me, and forwarding from Lembarene, I depended
on Mamba. (Mr. Good, on coming to the Ogowe, possessed by
his tremendous energy in his own work, had said to me, " Don't
depend on me; look out for yourself.") I sent Mamba in my
place. I relied on his truth, honesty, and efficiency. On Fri-
day, October 2, I had to send him, with a crew of live on an
errand down-river. With them went M burn's wife, mourning
for her dead sister.
The kind of milk I had that did not suit little Mary, was
slightly improved by change with " Mellen's Food." I sat down
to arrange the papers and documents in my writing-desk, which,
in the close mother-task, had scarcely been touched, for a year.
I spent four days in answering letters, a pile of which had accu-
mulated in the preceding six months. T had one very favorable
day, when I stopped other work, and sent the men on a visita-
tion with my sister to Sanjala.
A MOTHER-TASK 505
Friday, the gth. A second Fan we child, a little boy, had
been sent to me. But, his father, Mokumi, came to take him
away, professedly, for "two days." But, the child begged so
to be allowed to remain, that the father yielded. I was de-
lighted with the hope of a Fanwe school.
For the first time in her life, Mary went, on Saturday, the
10th, jaunting in her mother's boat, the Swan, with Handi. The
day also was an anniversary of her mother's marriage. Handi
wished to visit the wives of the traders living across the river.
Nyamba was at services on Sunday, the nth, fully dressed in
a frock made by a wife of one of the coast-traders. What an
advance in civilization, from her almost nakedness of 1882 !
On Wednesday, the 14th, there passed up the river, a strange
French craft, an iron raft-steamboat, whose deck lay scarcely
above the level of the water; and therefore was called by the
Galwas, Anigo-arcvo (water-only). It was built of exceedingly
light draft, in order to slide over the shallows, in the dry season.
The rains drove the chigoes into the house; and, temporarily,
they were worse than they had been in the dry. The trader,
Antyuwa, had loaned to my sister a little dog. " Carlotta," and
Mary was delighted with it. I would have bought it; but, it
was not his to sell, and sister preferred not to keep it on loan.
On Saturday, the 17th, under a heavy rain, the Gambia
passed, to locate a Mr. Quayle at Asange, for the firm of H. &
C. It was a new departure in the trade. I felt disappointed
that the vessel had not brought my supplies (among the rest,
much-needed milk for Mary) which were lying at Mr. Schiff's
German house at Lembarene. (Had Mr. Reading been at
Andende, he would have interested himself to have them for-
warded.) The next day, the 18th, when the Gambia came down,
it stopped voluntarily (a most unusual, and, because of the cur-
rent, a difficult favor) offering to take mail, and giving me
news, that Rev. and Mrs. Robinson had finally left Libreville
for the United States; and that Mr. Good (himself needing
some recuperation) had escorted them as far as Madeira; that
Rev. G. C. Campbell of Gaboon, had been at the Kangwe com-
munion in September; that the French government had punished
the Fanwe who had made an assault on the Andende premises.
(Of this assault I had heard nothing.)
Mamba returned on Thursday, the 22(1, bringing with him
five recruits. One of them was a little boy, Ombagho. [He
remained long in my service ; continued with my successors, the
Paris Evangelical Society, and is to-day, one of their best edu-
506 MY OGOWE
cated and most efficient evangelists]. I was intensely disap-
pointed that Mamba had not brought any of the goods (espe-
cially the milk) that were lying at Mr. Schiff's, down the river.
He told me that he had gone to Mr. Schiff's, to take a load in
the canoe. (His thoughtfulness in voluntarily doing that was
most commendable.) But, Mr. Schiff had refused to send the
goods without an order from me. I am sure that this was only
an excuse. He knew that Mamba was my employee. Goods
constantly had been sent to me without my request, and without
authority to the party carrying them. Mr. Schiff had allowed
his anger at Mamba's quarrel with his man Harry to mar his
justice to me.
The Akelc came on Saturday, the 24th. Again T was disap-
pointed ; it had nothing for me. It brought word that the Okota
was off at Elobi, Corisco Bay; that the Gambia was up the
Xgunye. Xo prospect of any vessel coming soon. So, I de-
cided to go myself down-river for the needed milk. Little
Mary's poor food was causing her a constant diarrhoea. I
needed also rice for my employees.
JOURNEY TO LEMBARENE.
Starting at 6 a. m. of Monday, the 26th, it was some com-
fort to me that my little one was at least temporarily better in
her symptoms. In the empty kongongo (that could hold many
boxes on return) and with a strong crew of eight paddles, for
the return trip, I went down the current, rapidly. I stopped
nowhere, except at Mbomi, to eat. To avoid the intricacies
of the island channels opposite Old Aguma, which had become
obstructed by deposits. I kept on toward Inenga, fleeing before
a storm, as I passed Holt's house, and reached Mr. Sinclair's
new Aguma, at Lembarene at 6 r. m., soaking wet; sixty-five
miles in less than twelve hours of continuous paddling. Air.
Sinclair was everything that was kind and hospitable. I re-
mained there that night. And he told me that he would send
the Gambia on the 28th. to take me and my goods to Talaguga.
Xext day. I went around to Andende to see Mrs. Good ; heard
the story of the Fan we assault; got some supplies from the
Andende store; remained for dinner. And, on my return to
Lembarene, stopped at the German house, to get my provisions,
etc. Mr. Schiff made some lame excuse for not having sent
them by Mamba. There was an interesting sight of over forty
canoes (each having from fifteen to twenty men) of Aduma
people from the Interior, just arrived under employ of the l)e
w
o
-
w
a
w
Q
X
<
O
>
A MOTHER-TASK 507
Brazza French exploring expedition, having come for supplies.
It was an exciting regatta-like scene. The men were hastily
building for themselves, with tree branches, shelter for the night.
By 9 a. m. of Wednesday, the 28th, with all my goods in the
Gambia, and my kongongo towed by it with nine other canoes,
I started on a miserable day of noise and heat. Stopping for
the night at Osamu-'kita : and the next day at Laseni's, for fire-
wood, reached Walker's place by 7 p. m. So near my home, I
left the Gambia, making the rest of the way in my kongongo,
to Talaguga an hour later. My little Mary heard the boat-
songs, and awoke to meet me. The following morning, the ves-
sel came, discharged my freight, and went on to Mr. Ouayle,
at Asange Post, with its load of thatch. The day was a grand
" opening day " of boxes and barrels of trade-goods, and pro-
visions, and other supplies.
The continuous heavy rains had flooded the river. Its rush-
ing current was a grand sight. It had crept up over the top of
the bank, over the terrace in front of the house, and up to the
foundation-posts. In the afternoon of that day, Sunday, Novem-
ber 1, the fleet of Aduma canoes of the French expedition passed
up river.
On Tuesday, the 3d, the Okota came, bringing my sister's
young Benga man, Imunga, who had been absent some time;
and 1 dismissed one of mine, wearied with his disobedience.
Next day, in the Nelly-Howard, I took the entire household
an excursion to Sanjala. Leaving my sister, Handi and my
Mary (who was quiet in the cool morning air) there on the
shaded sands with four of the employees, with the other seven
I went on down to Ndona-nyare's, opposite Yena. He made a
demonstrative welcome, wanting a talk, and went through an
amusing pantomime of his " friendship " for me. I settled my
accounts with Ongamu for his supplying of thatch. On the
way back to Sanjala, I gave some of the crew, who knew only
paddles, instruction how to use an oar. My little Mary was
glad to see me ; she drank her new milk, which was quite a sight
to the villagers (who looked with disgust on the idea of a
human being drinking the milk of a beast) ; and, she accepted
some ngwese (one form of preparing cassava) from a little
Fanwe girl. On the wav home, Mary noticed the flowers hang-
ing on the vines from the trees of the banks ; watched the
rippling water; wanted to dabble in it over the gunwale; was
excited at the sight of monkeys hopping in the forest. But, the
sun was warm; she became thirsty and sleepy; was kept awake
508 MY OGOW.E
only by the boat-songs, as I held her in my arms. We shot
quickly (the boat having no load) around the rocky points, and
arrived home before 5 p.m. But, the songs had ceased to keep
baby awake. She was asleep as I carried her ashore, and slept
long, even after her milk had been made ready, and I had taken
time to give the men their weekly ration of fish.
The Faiiwe child, Bilage, returned to school. I enjoyed my
supper; romped with Mary, after having watched her waken,
and fed her. At evening-prayers, I read Psalm 106. After
the others had gone, Akendenge and Imunga remained to read
and to look at pictures.
Some ten days later, I made another excursion, up-river, to
one of the farther Bikul clan, taking little Mary and the entire
household. As we returned, in the afternoon, we met the Gam-
bia going to Asange. And the next day, on its down-coming,
it stopped; and, the engineer told me that my kind friend, Mr.
Sinclair, had gone to Libreville, sick. Whatever .else I was
occupied with, there was the constant station-work of repairs
and of erecting proper out-houses for the various employees.
By Monday, the 23d, my Mary was very well indeed, by her
change in food. I gave her daily, one ration of Mellen's Food,
one of Neave's Farinaceous food, and two rations of milk.
Her sleep at night was now no longer broken.
On Monday, November 30, I paid the employees their month's
wages. They were very eager for it ; and, the whole fourteen
were paid very quickly. But, the next day, December 1, after
most of them had spent their " money," there was some dissat-
isfaction, and three of them wanted to leave with Mamba, whom
I was allowing to take his wife and child to their home.
By Monday, December 21, Mary's house was perfectly com-
pleted, to the very last addition of shelf or hook that could be
suggested for my sister's comfort and convenience. The work-
men were satisfactorily located in their out-houses. An ample
supply of provisions was on hand, especially for my little Mary.
For two years, though I was stated clerk, I had not gone to the
sea-coast, to attend the meetings of presbytery and mission.
But, now as my child was so well, and was seventeen months
old, T thought that I might risk leaving her. For how long. I
did not know; certainly for a month. But, the number of trade-
steamers had so increased in the river, that I no longer depended
on my boat or the Hudson, for the long and often dangerous
275 miles to Gaboon. There was now a probability that some-
A MOTHER-TASK 509
where on the route, I would be picked up by some one of those
steamers ; for, the traders were very generous in giving such
assistance; and (at that time), made no charge for our passage
or for transportation.
As I heard at noon, that the Okota had been at Yena ; that
the Falaba had arrived at Lembarene, and that the Elobi was
daily expected, I decided to start on the 22A.
JOURNEY FOR THE SEA-SIDE.
Leaving the house and premises in my sister's charge, and
little Mary in Handi's care, to whom I gave minute directions
about food and medicine, I bade good-by at 8 a. m. in my boat,
with a crew of five. Near Yefia, I met Uduma, coming to see
Handi. He confirmed the preceding day's reports. At Yena,
Ongamu added that the Falaba had not yet gone. (This proved
to be incorrect.) Passing Sika's, he confirmed about the Elobi.
(But, it proved to be the Mpongwe.) While stopping near
Abange, to take dinner with Laseni, the Gambia passed up, and
Mr. Sinclair called to me to hasten, lest the steamer should be
gone. My crew pulled well. Was favored with clouds to les-
sen the heat, but no rain, and no wind strong enough to be a
hindrance. Passed the Ngunye mouth at dusk, and Inenga at
moon-rise. Stopped at the head of the island, Eyenano village,
to inquire. And, leaving the boat there with four of the crew,
walked rapidly on the good path past the Roman Catholic mis-
sion, to Mr. Schiff's Otanga by 8.30 p. m. A good twelve-hour
run ! And both the Okota and the Mpongwe were lying there
at anchor! I was very tired, but, I was excited with my suc-
cess. Mr. Schiff gave me passage for the 27th. I left soon,
for. he was making great preparations for a " Christmas " dance
with Galwa women. Going back to my boat, I was told that
Mr. Good had returned from Madeira on the 17th; and, that
Mamba, on his way back to Talaguga, had stopped at Andende,
on the 19th. I was welcomed at Andende under a very damp
moonlight, at 9.30 p. m., and had a rapid chat over news with
Mr. and Mrs. Good, until 11 p.m. When they retired, I sat
up much later, to read a large mail that had been lying at
Andende. All this excited me ; and, I lay awake a long while.
The next day, Wednesday, I awoke unrefreshed. At break-
fast, I had no fever. But, as I was possessed of such brilliant
thoughts (a common premonition of on-coming fever) I pre-
pared pen and paper to write the news to my sister. Suddenly,
510 MY OGOWE
a heavy chill came. I disrobed and went to bed, and lay there
in great pain, for two days. Mr. Schiff had invited me for
dinner, for the 25th, and I had accepted.
On Thursday I sent him word, excusing - myself as too sick
to come. And, in the afternoon, he sent me word that the cap-
tain of the Mpongzvc had changed his sailing date to 8 A, m. of
the 25th. Sick as I was, I determined not to lose the oppor-
tunity of the steamer. Mr. Good was not going to the meet-
ings, as he had already been away three months. I tried to do
a little business, with him sitting at my bedside; and, Mamba
and my other men did the necessary packing of my own bag-
gage, and of other things that had come for me, and which he
was to take, on his return to Talaguga. abundance of new milk
for baby, a chair for her, and a new bed-crib, made by Agaia
(whom I had taught the use of tools, in Kangwe days), who.
living at Libreville, had copied one belonging to Mrs. Campbell
of Baraka.
On Friday, the 25th. I had no Christmas thoughts. Early.
I rose painfully, and dressed slowly. I had eaten nothing for
two days. Mr. Good took me around to the Mpongzvc. Doubt-
less, my two years' mother-task confinement had aged me; and.
the two days' sickness had very much weakened me. As T
started to climb the ladder at the vessel's side, I was amused to
hear the captain call to one of the sailors. " Here! help up this
old gentleman!" Old! Was it true that I was growing old?
And I only fifty years of age. in what should be manhood's
prime! The steamer was off by 9 a. m. As I lay on a lounge
on the deck. T had many thoughts about my coming up that river.
on that same Mpongzvc with Mrs. Nassau, on Christmas. 18X1.
And. in the preceding two years there had been so many changes
in the villages, so many new ones built, that T was unable to
recognize some of them. Anchored, for the night, opposite my
old Nkami village Rango. I slept miserably; I think that prob-
ably T was faint with hunger.
On Saturday, the 26th. the captain stopped a good while at
Angala. to close a sub-trader's house, and to remove him and
his goods. That would have been impossible three years before.
The presence of French power had now made it possible: and.
white traders would no longer give a sop to Orungu and Nkami
for the privilege of passing on to Galwa and Fanwe, since France
allowed them to go as far as Asange Post.
At the river's mouth was lying the Akclc, waiting for the
native pilot whom we were bringing to her. On the M ponyzvc
A MOTHER-TASK 511
I was pleased to find a Benga lad, Behali, a relative of Handi,
employed in the cook's galley.
As I am writing of only my Ogowe days, I will omit descrip-
tion of the events of the next three weeks, at Libreville and
Benita, except to indicate some dates.
The Mpongu'c anchored awhile at the Gaboon mouth, at night.
On Sunday, the 27th, before daylight, we entered the estuary,
and came to anchor at Libreville. Steamers are visible from
Baraka Hill more than an hour before they anchor, and boats
are sent off, for the possibility of a visitor being on board. Mr.
Campbell sent a pleasant Sierra Leone man, Joaque, a photog-
rapher, to bring me ashore. And, I was at Baraka, by 7.30
a. m. There were Rev. and Mrs. Campbell and their two little
boys, and Miss Lydia Jones. I waited there a whole week, as
Mr. Campbell had engaged passage for us all on the Mpongwe
which would take us to Benita, where our meetings were to be
held. Thence, the vessel would go on errands of its own at
Batanga (thus giving time for our sessions of several days) and
would return to Benita to bring us back to Gaboon. That pro-
gram was carried out. I preached an English sermon in the
Gaboon church on Sunday, January 3, 1886.
On Monday, the 4th. at 4 p. m., Rev. and Mrs. G. C. Camp-
bell and their two little boys, Rev. A. W. Marling, and the native
minister Rev. Ntaka Truman, joined me on the Mpongzve for
Benita. We safely got over the Benita river's bar, early in the
morning of the 5th ; and were welcomed at Bolondo by Rev. and
Mrs. C. De Heer and Mrs. Reutlinger, and former Kombe
friends ; among them, my good carpenter, Metyeba. Presbytery
began its sessions in the evening, with a sermon by Rev. \Y. C.
Gault, who was living at my old Mbade home; Rev. Mr. Marl-
ing being elected moderator, and my offered resignation of
stated clerk being kindly refused.
On Wednesday, the 6th, mission began its session. I was
chosen chairman. Our sessions of both bodies were closed, and
meetings adjourned by 9 p. m. of Saturday, the 9th. On Sun-
day, the 10th. I preached an English sermon in the church at
Bolondo. After dinner, I went with Rev. and Mrs. Gault to
their Mbade home ; and, together, we went to the cemetery :
they, to stand by the grave of their little Willie; and, I, by the
graves of my little Paull and his mother.
On Wednesday, the 13th, the Mpongwe returned. And. the
next dav, we all went on board; and, at sunset, the steamer
512 MY OGOWE
started. The course was a plain one, ninety miles south to the
Gaboon River, where we should have been by the next morning.
But, the captain was so drunk, that he could neither walk
straight nor see straight. Under his directions, the Kru-man
at the wheel, steered literally toward all points of the compass,
but principally westward. So, that, by dawn of the 15th, when
the captain yielded to the mate's plea that we should turn east-
ward, it was three hours' rapid steaming before we sighted land,
which proved to be Cape St. John. And, then, the captain as-
serted that it was Cape Esterias, and that the bay was the
Gaboon mouth, and insisted on entering it ; from which we did
not emerge at Cape Esterias until sunset. And then, again, him-
self taking the wheel, he directed the vessel straight ashore to-
ward the rocks of Point Clara. Our native passengers looked in
terror, and Mr. Truman came to me, saying, " Doctor, do you
not know the rocks of Point Clara, and that the steamer is going
to destruction?" I did know them. I had often, in Corisco
days, sailed in the boat safely from them. Mr. Marling and T
went to the mate, and begged him to take the wheel. He said
that that would be mutiny, and that he would lose his place.
We told him that he and we were all in danger of losing our
lives; and that, if he would interfere, we would defend him to
Agent Schultze. So, in the captain's presence, he flung aside
the Kru-man from the wheel, turned the steamer square around,
and, by only a few minutes, saved us and the vessel from de-
struction. The captain swore at him and at us ; but did nothing
more, and lay down in a drunken sleep. That night, we
anchored safely by the guard-ship. And. all went ashore, next
day, the 16th. On Monday, the T8th. T went shopping with
Mrs. Marling. And I told Mr. Schultze of his captain's doings.
He justified the mate; and thanked Mr. Marling and myself for
saving his vessel.
On Thursday, the 21st, Agent Schultze notified me for passage
by the Elobi, for the afternoon of the 22d. T got ready all my
boxes, etc., including my sister's boat Evangeline.
RETURN TO THE OGOWE BY Elob'l.
On Friday, the 22(1, I boarded the Elobi; and found that its
captain was the gentlemanly and efficient Ludovici, who had
taken Mrs. Nassau to Talaguga in July of 1884. Agent Schultze
also came on board. We ran at sea all night; sea smooth, and
sky clear. I stayed on deck all night. Next day, we entered
the Ogowe ; and, on up-river, touching ground occasionally
K A NGW E SC 1 1 OOL-G1 RLS
Facing jiagc 513
A MOTHER-TASK 513
among the Nenge-saka islands; especially opposite Kamaranga
village. But, the captain skilfully got off, and anchored for the
night at Ngumbe.
The next day (Sunday) he successfully crossed the low chan-
nels at Ashuka (where I recognized evangelist Mentyuwa-
Yongwe, ashore). And, reached the German house at Lemba-
rene by 5 p. m. Ashore there, I was told that the Gambia was
about to go up-river in a day or two. I got a crew at night to
take me around to Andende in the Evangeline. I found Mr.
Sinclair there, sick. Heard, through Mr. Good, by a letter,
which had just arrived, from my sister, that all was well at
Talaguga. What a blessed Sunday evening, to obtain that
knowledge! On Monday, I went around to the German house:
transferred my goods to the Gambia, and was directed to be in
readiness the next day, at old Aguma, to be taken in tow by that
vessel. In the afternoon, Mr. Good had an ecclesiastical dis-
cussion at Eyenano with the Roman Catholic priests, who had
become outrageous in destroying the books of our Andende
school-children.
BACK TO TALAGUGA.
Early in the morning of Tuesday, the 26th, I loaded up both
the Nelly-Hoivard and Evangeline, and also Piere's canoe ; and,
with them was taken in tow by the Gambia at the appointed place.
The day was hot ; but. because of draughts of air. I caught a
severe cold. Reached Laseni's, for the night.
Early again, next morning, the Gambia proceeded. I had
the headache and nausea of fever. But, was better on reaching
my home just before noon. Joy! my little girl, in the arms of
Handi, at the top of the veranda steps, had not forg'otten me.
but held out her hands. The Gambia went on to Asange. In
the afternoon, I opened all the boxes : and set out the plants.
After evening-prayers, I recounted the journey: and gave thanks
for the many protections. A most rapid journey, and return
from almost six weeks' absence! The travel did me good in
many respects. I felt enlarged and widened. I became conscious
that the previous two years' mother-task had limited my range of
vision. Perhaps some of the difficulties with my employees
might be explained in that way. Naturally, there was some re-
action after my month of excitement, and, on Thursday, the
28th. I was feverish for several days, and my cough remained.
Otherwise I would have gone to Xyare's people on Saturday,
the 30th ; for, he had died in his heathenism, during my ab-
514 MY OGOWE
sence. Fafiwe, from different parts of the river, were at the
mourning. Though my sister had the use of Mrs. Nassau's
Szvan, the associations of Benita days made her feel more at
home in her own Evangeline. On Thursday, February 4, she
went in it on a little trip.
I increased my cold on the 7th, by preaching out in the wind
on the veranda. By Wednesday, the 10th, I was suffering so
from pain of the cough, had no appetite, and was so dispirited,
thinking that my lungs were affected, that I started in the Swan
in the afternoon, to consult the doctor on the Pionnier, which
I supposed was at the post. I knew that the return would be
at night, and I dreaded the possible chill of the night air. But,
fortunately, I found the vessel lying at Njoli Island. The doc-
tor examined my chest, said that my lungs were not affected ;
and gave me a prescription to relieve the cough.
In the afternoon of Saturday came the Akele, with a visitor,
a new trader, a Mr. Wichula. He gave us news of the move-
ments of several of the steamers ; and the probability of Miss
Jones of Baraka being on the Okota, on her way for a visit at
Talaguga.
On Sunday, the 14th. came the Okota, with Miss Jones: some
freight from Gaboon, which I had been unable to take on board
the Elobi; a new workman ; and a small mail, which bore the
sad news of the death of my brother-in-law, Mr. J. R. Lowrie,
of Warrior's Mark, Pa.
The Gambia slowed, in passing up, on the 16th, and let off
Mr. Good, on an excursion, and two new workmen for me. But.
when the vessel came down on the 17th. and Mr. Good left, the
two also left; they were dissatisfied with the wages I offered
them.
On Friday, the TQth, sent Mamba for a day's itinerating in
the villages, as far down as Yena. With my sister, and the baby,
I escorted Miss Jones, to show her the former cottage home on
the hill-side: and went to Mary's mother's pool (which was
called "the spring") in the brook in the rear of that house.
Fafiwe came on Sunday, the 21st. to sell iguma, not knowing
that the day was Sabbath. The girl Bilaga ran away with some
of Nyamba's company. In the Evangeline with most of the
household, I escorted Miss Jones down to Sanjala. and picnicked
in the forest. My little Mary enjoyed the day. both in the boat,
and on the sands, and in the forest. On our return. I found
that Mons. Kerraoul, former administrator at the Asange Post,
had called, in my absence, to see me.
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CHAPTER XXVI
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED,
FEBRUARY, 1 886- JULY, 1 888
HANDI had left me. I felt the desertion as so cruel,
coming from one who had been so kind, that, in my
revulsion of feeling. I tried to forget her, and made no
record of the exact day of her going. I could not understand,
at first, her reasons for going. But, as I recalled events during
the previous year, I began to feel that she was partially justi-
fiable : She had come to my aid, in a case of need greater than
ever before known in the mission, with devotion to me, and had
loved my infant placed in her care.
When my sister came to me in 1885, Handi naturally assumed
that the aunt would displace her in the charge of the niece.
But. when I told Handi of my sister's repeated statement that
her other works would prevent her doing anything for the child.
Handi remained. It would have been well had my sister carried
out entirely the spirit of that statement. But, with her strong
habit of control, she was unable to omit Handi from the sphere
of her authority. This Handi resented. And she complained
to me. She was right. For, I had indeed told her, in my bar-
gain with her. that my child was solely under my control and
her care. But I did not like to criticize or judge my sister be-
fore a native. I compromised. \\ nile I told Handi that she
was in the right. I wished that she would make some concession
to my sister. Compromises are generally unfortunate. With
Handi, they rankled. Difficulties grew worse ; they grew to dis-
harmony. And, one day. after an angry altercation with my
sister. Handi, provoked that I did not publicly take her part,
turned her displeasure on me, and left in a passing canoe.
My sister said to me. "Let her go: I will take care of the
child for you." (The child was no longer a helpless infant.)
I did not stop to consider that that was as impossible physically
for her. as morally for me. And, had I known what I was to
endure in the next two years, I would have begged Handi to
remain, on whatever terms she should choose to demand. After
all these years, I now blame myself tor not having sustained her.
I still had the entire night care of the child ; no one else ever
515
516 MY OGOWE
lost a night in watching over her. I hired Awora's young wife,
Keva, to follow Mary's toddling steps during the days. And,
my sister attempted the task of the evening bath. But, the
child, missing Handi's skilled fingers and persuasive voice,
utterly refused to be manipulated by her. It was most remark-
able. I never before or afterwards saw such exercise of will in
the child. As if it was possible for her to have had an inherited
memory of her mother's tears, her little hands and feet fought.
Though I was present, she would not yield. And, my sister,
exhausted in an actual conflict, gave up ; and never attempted it
again. Keva successfully took her place at the daily baths.
And the " care " that my sister had promised was limited to the
mending of the little garments. Of the eight successive young
Galwa women who occupied Handi's office during the next two
years, though all of them were kind, none of them were educated
(beyond reading), barely civilized, not all of them Christians,
one or two not even moral, and all serving for a purely com-
mercial reason, without any of Handi's love.
Mamba, on his village itinerations, was away all day of the
26th. up and down the river. It was thus that T relieved my
sense of duty in that branch of my mission-work. It was a
work that I enjoyed, but could not do both it and my duty to
my child. For. unable to trust the unskilled young Galwa
woman, I did not dare to leave the station. Late in the after-
noon, some Fanwe tried to break into the workmen's new hut.
Tt was the first attempt at burglary since I came to Talaguga.
On Saturday, the 27th, I sent Mamba to the Sanjala lagoon to
fish for kondo. He returned in the evening with a comfort-
able supply. That assured a satisfactorv Sunday for my peo-
ple!
Though there were not many strangers present at services on
the 28th, it was noticeable how mixed the population of the
river was becoming; there were Mpongwe, Galwa, Inenga, Ba-
kota. and Fanwe.
Mary's new crib was al the side of my own bedstead, so near,
that, if need were. I could put out my hand and touch her.
However asleep I might be. T had learned to wake at her call.
About 1.30 a. m. of Monday. March t. she spoke, asking for a
drink of water. She was only partially awake. As T left her.
to go into the adjoining bathroom for the water, she was lying
down. T was not absent two minutes. But, during that time,
she must have arisen, and. in her dazed state, fell over the side
of the crib. For, I heard a heavy thud, and a cry. Rushing
o
o
o
<
o
D
O
<
<
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 517
to her, I found her lying on the floor, in the narrow space be-
tween her crib and my bedstead. I was frightened lest there
were broken bones. But, as she eagerly drank the water, and
soon ceased crying, I felt assured that she was not in much pain;
and. she soon fell asleep again. But, after daylight (for, she
slept late that morning), I saw a large raised lump on her fore-
head, bruises, and a dark line, almost like a cut, that had evi-
dently been made by her falling against some sharp edge of my
bedstead. I feared brain-concussion. But, she showed no signs
of pain; and had apparently no memory of how she fell.
At night, I gave out to the employees, fire-crackers and tor-
pedoes, and I handled Roman-candles, and Chinese-lanterns, as
(a late) welcome to Miss Jones. (All previous nights had been
barred either by too bright moonlight, or meetings, or rain, or
sickness.)
On Tuesday, the 2d, I began to feel some returning energy,
and resumed my letter-writing.
Just as we sat down to dinner, on Wednesday, the 3d, the
Akcle signaled. I went off, and brought ashore Mr. Wichula,
who joined us at the table. He had come to buy carpenter tools.
From the first, in my mission-life, I had been impressed with
the importance of mechanical industrial training for the natives.
I kept on hand, and, yearly enlarged the stock of tools (saws,
planes, chisels, etc., etc.). When paying my employees, nothing
pleased me more, in their choice of articles, than when they asked
for some form of iron, the great civilizer. The employees of
the traders saw their mission-acquaintances with their handsome
tools : and they also wanted them. For, the American tools were
finer in finish than the European make. [That interest of mine
grew, until I longed for an industrial school. I wrote, and
begged, and prayed for it, during thirty years, under Secretaries
Lowrie, Gillespie, and Brown ; and, finally, it was obtained, for
other hands, in another part of the mission.]
On Thursday, the 4th, prepared to go on an excursion. Just
as we were ready, Mr. Wichula and Mons. Kerraoul came to
make a call. I talked with the latter about news from the
Kongo. After they had left on the Akele, started up-river in
the Evangeline. The hour being mid-day, we stopped to eat our
lunch at a camp-ground on Njoli Island. Proceeding again, I dis-
embarked on a dry sand-bank, with my Mary and Keva and her
husband, near a large Fanwe village, Alariga ; my sister and Miss
Jones went on farther, to hold a meeting in that village. Mary
enjoyed the sand, and ran about for a long while. When the
518 MY OGOWE
crew returned, she was much amused with their " leap-frog "
plays.
At different times, I had tried to keep goats, for the sake of
their milk. But, there were difficulties : the young men were
rough or careless in their milking; leopards; or complaints of
my neighbors about depredations on their gardens. True, there
were depredations ; but complaints were not made when the
owner of the goats was a Fan we. Now, that there was no
village near on my side of the river, I built a strong goat-house,
where the animals would be safe from leopards. I hoped that
my Mary's health and vigor would become even stronger with
their excellent milk. The household servants were usually de-
sirous to go to a weekly prayer-meeting held by Mamba in the
hill-side cottage. But, on that Saturday, the 6th, they all came
to my evening-prayers. Evidently, there was some hidden
reason; for, when I asked them, they gave me reasons too slight
and too unreasonable to be believed.
Besides my own people, there was an unusual number of
Fail we at service, on Sunday, the 7th, about forty-five in all.
They came with the Mpongwe trader Antyuwa, from Nyare's,
where they had been making Ukuku all night, for the closing of
his funeral ceremonies.
I was comforted by the growth of the inquiry class. On
Wednesday, the 10th, came the Gambia, bringing Akendenge
and his newly-married wife. One of my sister's pupils, the
Benga young man, Imunga, in his going alongside in a canoe,
fell, and his foot being held fast in the canoe by a cleat, and his
head in the water, he was in danger of drowning. I hasted to
his rescue, and found his ankle badly injured; but was not sure
whether it was a dislocation, or a fracture, or only a strain. I
went onto the hill with Miss Jones to gather ferns at Mrs.
Xassau's pool.
On Thursday, the nth, I took Imunga to the French steamer
lying at Njoli, to have the doctor examine his ankle. The doc-
tor was away at the Post. After waiting two hours, T returned
home. But, the next day, T sent the Swan to bring the doctor.
He came, and decided that the case was a partial fracture of the
fibula.
The surroundings of Mary's house had so grown in im-
provement that I had come to have a flower-bed, and a lawn at
the east end. Had the grass on the latter cut. Its odor brought
back memories of hay-fields in the United States. I engaged
Akendenge's wife to do the washing (thus far done by Keva),
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 519
in order that the latter might devote herself more to the watch-
ing of Mary's steps.
Mary had so grown in her own playfulness, that I was not
needed to constantly attend to her, as formerly, and could have
some recreation of my own in the evenings. With my sister
and Miss Jones, I resumed an old alphabet game, Logomachy
(word-taking and word-making).
On Thursday, the 18th, in the Evangeline, we all went on an
excursion. We picnicked on Njoli Island ; and then went on
to Alariga, " Mary's sand-bank," where I debarked with her to
play with Keva and Ombagho, while my sister went with the
boat to hold meetings in the Asange villages. While we were
on the sand-bank, the Pionnier passed up, making an attractive
show, as it plowed against the swift current. We all enjoyed
the day.
On Saturday, the 20th, late in the afternoon, came the Gam-
bia with the Gaboon photographer, Mr. Joaque, a box of gifts
from my Lawrenceville, N. J., relatives, a cask of dried fish, a
large foreign mail, and letters from Mr. Good and Mr. Sinclair
urging that we use the Gambia instead of my boat, in which to
come down to Kangwe for the quarterly communion. As the
launch was to return from Asange on Monday, I had to haste
in making preparations, and only at night found time to read
my large mail.
Many Fan we were present at services on Sunday, the 21st.
There came to me the first two instances, in my four years at
Talaguga, of profession of personal interest in the Gospel, by
any Fafiwe. After the usual sermon in Mpongwe, they asked
me why I did not speak also in their dialect for them. (Most
of the Fafiwe who came to me could understand somewhat of
Mpongwe ; the majority of my audience were always Mpongwe-
speaking; and, although I used Faiiwe for conversation, I had
not yet felt free to preach in it.) In the afternoon, some of the
Bindubi clan came to say that they wanted to hear God's Word.
On Monday, the 22d, the Gambia returned from Asange, by
8 a. m. ; but I detained it until noon, that Mr. Joaque could
take some photographs. He did so, very successfully: of Tala-
guga station ; Mary in my arms ; Mary w r ith Keva, myself and
my sister; the east end of the house; and of the lower end of
the ravine. Then, the Gambia left, taking with it Mary and
Keva, and two playmate boys, and Miss Jones and my sister.
Mr. Joaque remained with me, to take more photographs. That
evening was very lonely to me. I missed my baby. At night,
520 MY OGOWE
for a long time, I could not go to sleep. I was listening for
the sound of her breathing in her cot by my bedside. The next
day, Mr. Joaque and I went to Mrs. Nassau's Pool; but, he did
not succeed in photographing it. He took several other views.
On Wednesday, the 24th, with my boat and crew, Mr. Joaque
and I made an early start down-river; stopping only to eat, in
the forest. Opposite the Ngunye mouth, the Gambia, which
had been on an errand to one of the adjacent trader's houses
overtook us, and towed us to Andende by 6 p. m., where Mary
was on the lookout for me. Mr. Sinclair was there sick. Next
day, I wanted a photo of Mary by herself; and Mr. Joaque had
promised me one. But, his films were almost exhausted ; and,
other promises were demanding his attention. However, in the
afternoon, he offered a sitting. But, the child was willful, and
was so enjoying racing with her new playmate, Bertie Good,
that she would not stand alone before the camera. After a hot
chase, I caught and held her. But, I had not wished to appear
in the picture, least of all, heated as I was, in my working
clothes, and with no time even to arrange my hair.
At the Friday afternoon service in the church, I preached;
and, then, a congregational meeting was held, at which, Yongwe
was elected a ruling elder. The ordination and installation were
held in the evening. And, a preparatory service on Saturday
afternoon.
On Sunday, the 28th, three natives were baptized at the com-
munion; at which I preached, and administered the bread, and
Mr. Good the wine. Air. Smith (Mr. Sinclair's successor) and
a Mr. Bramwell of the island "factory," were present; and (a
very unusual act among traders) they communed. In the even-
ing, there was an open meeting, with addresses, prayers, and
hymns, conducted by the native church-members. It was a
pleasant, bright, happy day. The two children, Mary and
Bertie, had a happy romp in the evening.
I remained at Andende a week, waiting for the Gambia to
tow me back to Talaguga. I still hoped for a photo of Mary
by herself; but, Air. Joaque failed me. He was using all his
films for views which he expected to sell to the public. Mean-
while, I wished to occupy myself in copying a manuscript trans-
lation of an Infant Catechism made by Mr. Good into Fanwe.
he having obtained a very competent translator to assist him.
He had adopted an orthography of his own, which he required
me to follow, as a condition of my being allowed t<> use the copy.
This. I could not promise to do, as I did not approve of his
CAUGHT!
Facing page 530
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 521
spelling; and therefore I never saw or used his translation. I
had been helpless to get any aid of that kind at Talagnga ; for,
there was then not a single Fafiwe who had any education or
training whatever. So, I applied to Rev. Mr. Marling, of Ga-
boon, the best Fanwe scholar in the mission; and he sent me
some material.
I bought of Air. Joaque, and mailed, with short description
lists, ninety of his photographs, which I sent to different relatives
in the United States. I took my people to the Lembarene trad-
ing-houses, to give them, for their monthly pay, their choice
from the very large stock of the houses. In my little store at
Talaguga, 1 had American goods, which were of better quality
than most of the slazy and ill-finished English and German
cloths. My people were disappointed in the quality ; would not
take their pay; and then murmured, as if / was the cause of their
disappointment!
RETURN TO TALAGUGA WITH THE Gambia.
On Tuesday, April 6, the Gambia came for us at Andende.
Leaving Miss Jones there, we were taken in tow, my sister,
Keva and Mary, Ombagho and myself sitting in the stern of
the Nelly-Hozwd, under a thatch roof I had built over it. I
had a supply of two hundred bunches of plantains, bought from
the ample Andende market. Some, doubtless, would not have
done so; but, for once, I wished to justify myself with the com-
plaining Galwas, and have even a superabundance of rations.
Messrs. Smith and Bramwell were on the deck of the Gambia.
And. I had four new employees. We reached Laseni's that
evening.
The next morning, after a hasty breakfast, we started again,
reaching Talaguga early in the afternoon. A comfortable day-
and-a-half, instead of the unsafe and uncomfortable boat-
journey of three and a half days! Of course, in either case,
there was to be a prompt drying of the contents of our boxes.
Everybody was happy at our arrival. Alary was lively and
strong; but, she had not increased in weight over the twenty-
four pounds of the preceding month.
By Tuesday, the 13th, all the various jobs of out-house build-
ing were going on successfully. Nyamba came bringing Bilaga
back to school. She begged for a present of a cloth, for a
mosquito-net. I gave it.
The old first hut, hastily built at the brookside, four years
before, had fallen down. I felt a tender sentiment for that rem-
522 MY OGOWE
nant of my pioneer days. Instead of ruthlessly burning- it, I
selected the portions, especially the thatch, that were still avail-
able, and placed them on the goat-house I was building. The
old door became the goat-shed door. Baby was well ; but, freed
from Handi's good control, she was developing querulous
habits, especially as she did not like her Galwa nurse, Keva.
Another Fan we child Bakala was brought, on the 14th, to
live at the station. Changed Mary from the use of her feeding-
bottle to drinking from a tumbler. But, she did not accept the
change, refused her food; and, therefore, at night was restless.
The hundreds of bunches of plantains I had brought from
Kangwe, were, of course, all gradually ripening. Naturally, I
gave out the rations from the riper ones, to save out the supply
longer. Then, some of my people complained ! I knew indeed
that natives preferred the unripe. But, I thought I was pleas-
ing them in providing any kind of plantains rather than the
objectionable farinya. I was not tired of sickness, or danger,
or work; but, I was becoming tired of workmen's complaints.
On Tuesday, the 20th, the two children, Bilaga and Bakala, ran
away; I did not know for what reason.
On Wednesday, the 21st, I prepared a journey to the forest,
back of Njomu, for bamboo building-materials. Near Yena,
met the Akele, which informed me that the Okota was on its
way up, with goods for me. At Sika's little trading-house, we
left our belongings, and went into the forest to the bamboo
swamp. There, I set the crew to work, in orderly three gangs
of three each : one to cut the fronds, one to strip off the leaves,
and the third to carry to me. A little boy had followed us, out
of curiosity. He sat by me. I was interested to notice, that
though he had never been at school, nor (as far as I knew) at
my house, he had picked up the alphabet, and was pointing
them out on a piece of wrapping-paper. I heard the whistle of
the Okota; and, Sika's little boy came to call me. I left the
men with directions to return with their bamboo load next day.
At Sika's, the Okota was at anchor. Mr. SchifT told me that the
stones for Mrs. Nassau's grave were on board. I took passage
with him, reaching Talaguga that night. The precious stones
made the little steamer's deck seem sacred.
Next day, Captain Lindt, with his large canoe and stout Kru-
men, kindly superintended their landing. Even if my men had
been present, no three of them could equal the strength of one
Kru-man in handling the stones, and my small canoe would prob-
ably have been swamped by their weight. Until my people re-
C
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THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 523
turned, I could do no work at placing the stones. I played with
Mary; and went to the cottage with thoughts of her mother.
Two days were required, slowly and carefully to push the three
large heavy stones up the steep slope, to the grave, and to put
them in position. And, then there was the slow unskilled work
of chiseling into four corner-stones, cavities for inserting the
posts of the iron-fence around the grave ; the posts to be kept
in place by melted lead. Two of the stones, at the base, were
each 4 ft. x 3 ft. x 1 ft. ; and, on them, the third, was 4 ft. x
3 ft. x i l / 2 ft., Mrs. Nassau's name deeply carved on one side;
the date of birth and death, at the ends ; without any other in-
scription.
On the 28th, the Gambia came bringing Mrs. Good and her
Bertie, on a visit from Kangwe. Mary was so occupied with
her little visitor that she did not fret, all the afternoon. On May
1, Mrs. Good, with the two children and their attendants went
to the Hill, to Mary's mother's pool. I followed them; and
found an enormous citron on the tree I had planted four years
previously.
At night of the 5th, in a heavy storm, came Mr. Good in his
Montclair, from Kangwe. With him came Charity, the widow
of Sambunaga, to work for me, in the care of Mary, in place
of Keva. (Sambunaga, on his marriage, had called her by a
very long name ; for which, my sister had substituted, " Char-
ity," in memory of her devoted Liberian assistant, Charity Sneed,
in 1869, who subsequently had become the first wife of Mr.
Menkel.) By Saturday, the 8th, the work of the erection of
the iron-fence around the grave was completed, including the
sodding of the bank, and cutting of paths for approach to the
spot. The fence was of ornamental castings, in size about 10
ft. x 6 ft. x 4 ft.
On Sunday, the 9th, Re-Ndiva reported to me that the big
canoe had floated away under the heavy rise of water during the
night. I held him responsible ; the key for locking the chain
was in his charge. I sent him with three others, to search for
the lost canoe. Mr. Good preached for me; people coming to
service, from across the river. Re-Xdiva returned, not having
found the canoe. I sent him, the next clay, with direction to
spend even two days in the search. The river continued to rise,
unprecedently. It flooded under the house, and into the out-
kitchen ; so that I removed the stove onto the rear porch of the
dwelling-house.
In the evening of Tuesdav, the nth, Re-Ndiva returned, hav-
5-4 MY OGOWE
ing found the canoe at Mavyane's village; but, reported that the
villagers there refused to release it.
Had Mavyane's people, on finding the floating canoe, brought
it to me, or sent me word, I would have paid them, on the prin-
ciple of civilized " salvage." Or, had they 1>een ignorant as to
who was the owner, I would not have blamed them for holding
possession of it. But, the canoe was so distinctly marked, that
I was sure that all adjacent villages knew to whom it belonged.
I knew that it was the old native idea to appropriate all strays.
But, at the point of civilization and professed personal friend-
ship that Talaguga region had even then reached, I determined
not to submit to (what I considered) stealing. In company
with Mr. Good, on the 12th, I visited Asange Post, and in-
quired whether the French would endorse me in my proposed
attempt to retake the canoe by force. They replied that they
would be pleased to do so.
Next day, with ten of my men, I went to Mavyane's ; and,
after a short talk, the villagers yielded the canoe, not even
demanding any " ransom " for it. As they yielded without dif-
ficulty, I voluntarily promised to send them a few gifts; held
prayers with them; and returned safely. On Friday, the 14th,
under a sharp rain, Mr. Good and his family returned to Kangwe.
I sent messengers to Asange Post, with a note of thanks to
Mons. Kerraoul for his offer of aid, and informed him that the
canoe was recovered.
Our orders to England and the United States had to be made
six months in advance. YVe anxiously looked for their coming.
we gladly landed them from the little river steamers; but, with
some anxiety we opened the boxes. For, the contents were
often damaged or broken, because of insufficient packing and
rough handling, or exposure to rain. The Gambia came on
Friday, the 21st, with a mail, and some boxes. In one box,
were six dozen bottles of an English health-drink. " Zoedone " ;
exactly one-half of them were broken. A clinical thermometer
came from England ; but. on opening its case it was found
broken. My watch, sent to England for repair, was so poorly
packed, that it needed at once to be sent back again, for repair.
On Monday, the 24th, for the first time, I found a Fail we,
Ngemi, bright enough in understanding his own language, and
with enough of a smattering of English, to help me in my
Faiiwe translations.
Mary's love for water was becoming almost a passion. She
was always happy when allowed to wade in the brook. 1 would
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 525
sit with her a long time in a canoe, watching her dabble over
the gunwale with her hands in the stream.
On Monday, the 31st, Nyamba came, with a present of a bunch
of plantains and two very small chickens; perhaps, as atone-
ment for some of her people having attempted on Sunday to
cross my premises, on the way to their gardens. My men,
while dragging a log, for a bridge over one of the two brooks
around the little island, found a mygale spider's nest. It was
quite a prize. I had found mygales ; but never a nest. For
certain entomological specimens I had offered my workmen a
standing reward. I was collecting for scientific friends in Eng-
land. This nest had four young ones.
On Saturday. June 5, the Gambia came, with news from Mr.
Good, that his Bertie had been seriously ill, and, that though the
child was better, Mrs. Good expected to take him away from
Africa. Re-Ndiva, whom, for great disrespect, I had ordered
to leave my service, at once by the Gambia, said that he did not
wish to go, and asked to stay. So, I forgave him, and allowed
him to remain.
On Sunday, the 6th. at service, were several Galwa traders,
from Antyuwa's and Walker's, and also several Galwa women.
Among the Fanwe was Nyamba dressed in her frock, and
little " Nassau " in his pantaloons (a child of Nyare, whom his
mother, against my objection, had insisted on calling by my
name).
The veranda was no longer convenient for holding the daily
and Sunday religious services. I altered one of the bark-built
out-houses (by the flower-garden at the west end of the house)
into a prayer-room, until such time as it might seem right to
erect a church-building.
On Thursday, the 10th, some of the Bise clan, in two canoes.
stopped at the landing. One resumed its journey up-river, and
was attacked and captured by Ntula's people ; the other retreated
to Vena. That man Ntula had been one of the dozen who had ac-
companied Nyare. at the time of my fight with the latter in
1883. Since Nvare's death. Ntula had set himself up as his
successor. But, he had learned well the lesson of that fight, and
had not approached the Bise on my premises.
The dry season was, of all the year, the time when employees
became restless and unsatisfactory. It was the season in which
plantations were to be cut. Some of my young men really
were needed by their parents, to assist in that work. Others
wished to go and participate in the picnicking and fishing which
526 MY OGOWE
always were associated with the garden-work. So, my men
always became uneasy, wanting to go away on a " vacation," even
to the point of breaking time-contracts, and sometimes resulting in
conduct so disobedient that I was relieved by dismissing them
in disgrace. And, this too, in the case of some, who, in other
parts of the year, had been good workmen.
My sister shared in my desire to extend our work interiorward.
But, I was barred from all such itinerations by my duty to my
little girl, especially since the loss of the reliable Handi. So,
on the 15th, my sister was pleased to go in my place. I gave,
her all my men, in a large canoe, to stem the rapids on the 20-
mile course to the Bakota of Isangaladi, at the foot of the be-
ginning of the Elembe Cataracts. With no work on the
premises, and with only my child to care for, I wrote while she
slept; and prepared two boxes of curios I was sending to rela-
tives in the United States.
Xext day, the Akclc came, with Messrs. Wichula and Letz,
bringing a small mail. On the following day the two gentle-
men left; and, in the afternoon, my sister returned, delighted with
her excursion.
With the very incompetent nurse, Charity. T did not feel it
duty to go to the quarterly communion, at Kangwe. But, T
equipped my sister, in her Evangeline with a very large crew of
10. And, on Monday, the 21st, she started down-river, there
remaining with me 8 male and female assistants for the cook-
ing, washing, ironing, nursing, and guarding. On the 24th. the
river's flood had all receded, and I put the stove, from the rear
veranda, back into the kitchen.
On Saturday, the 26th, I sent two of the men down as far as
Sanjala to fish. They returned early in the evening, successful.
Mary was exceedingly interested in watching the counting and
division. She was given one to handle, and became so attached
to it that she was distressed when she had to give it up to the
cook.
Mr. Letz came on Tuesday, the 29th, with letters from Kangwe,
Gaboon, and Benita, and with a tin of eggs for Mary. I had
had great difficulty in obtaining this food so needed by her.
For, the Fanwe kept but few chickens, and sold mostly only eggs
that were rotten. For the few good eggs that were brought,
they almost always wanted tobacco. Still following Mrs.
Nassau's principles on that subject, I declined to keep it on
hand.
On Wednesday. June 30, the Gambia came, towing the Ezwu-
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 527
geline with its crew. Usually, I expected desertions on those
quarterly journeys to Kangwe. But, they had all kept their
promise, except one Ra-Vungu. He deserted at Andende. I
was glad to welcome back cook Etendi after his three months'
absence, and two new young men seeking work. There were
general welcomes and rejoicings.
By Thursday, July 1, the prayer-room, which I had been
slowly building, was completed ; and. for the first time I used it
in the evening for that purpose. And, on Sunday, the 4th, I
began to use it as a chapel, instead of the veranda of all the pre-
vious years.
On Wednesday, the 7th, Mr. Letz called, took dinner, and
bought tools. He had musical skill, and kindly put in order
some keys of my sister's little harmonium. He wished to buy
Mrs. Nassau's organ ; but, I would not think of parting with it ;
everything that w r as her mother's that could be preserved must
be kept for little Mary. But, he promised to come again to put
in order some of its keys. Because of his presence, the celebra-
tion of the twenty-third monthly-return of her birth, was de-
ferred until next day. She weighed twenty-six pounds. An
excursion was made up-river to her sand-bank, cooking and eat-
ing our dinner there. Then, we went on to Asange Island, and
called on Messrs. Letz and Quayle, representatives of the Ger-
man and English houses. On our return, I found Laseni's
people from down-river, awaiting me. On Sunday, the nth,
there was a sudden wailing at Nyamba's. Next day, I was told
that it was for the death of two aged visitors, a man and a
woman, who had been drowned in crossing Lebo Creek, a small
affluent of the Ogowe near Xjoli, on the right bank.
Our friend, the Okota, had been wrecked; and, in its place,
came, on the 13th, a new steamer, the Duala.
Next day. in the kongongo, I went down river for thatch,
going to both the Akele Yefia (left) bank, and then to the Fan we
Njomu (right) bank. At the former, the people were few, and
thin and hungry-looking. On the other side, I went to Sika's
trading-house. There, I was told that a manatee had been
killed in the Bitaga lagoon several miles lower down. It is such
a delicious meat that I wanted some; and we pulled down to
Bitaga. Guided by one of Sika's boys, we entered the lagoon
for a long distance. We found the prey; and I bought forty-
five pounds for $15 (trade). We made a camp and ate. On
the way back, we passed the floating corpse of the woman
drowned in Lebo. Stopping at Mavyane's, we heard of the
528. MY OGOWE
drowning of another woman. At nightfall, we were in terror,
being actually pursued by a hippopotamus. It was the first time
T had been so pursued. Most of my travels were by day. Per-
haps the animal felt more duty in guarding his household at
night. We carried to Nyamba the report about her dead friend's
corpse; and were home by 9 p. m.
To satisfy the longings of some of my people for a " vaca-
tion," to furnish an itineration for my sister, and an outing for
Mary near the close of her second year, I planned a four days'
picnic in the Bitaga Lagoon. On Tuesday, the 20th, leaving
only a few to guard the house, with my sister, Charity and Mary,
in the boat, and with two canoes and a force of ten men, we went
down to a trading-house at the mouth of the lagoon, formerly
occupied by Uduma, and at that time by a Portuguese, Manoel.
one of Mr. Stein's men. We, of the boat, were in advance of
the canoes. Manoel put his house at our service, and we were
busy in setting up our bedding and arranging our boxes in two
of his rooms. The Fail we watched us with keen eyes. When
the canoes arrived, they at once entered the lagoon, and fished ;
and, early in evening returned, successful. I arranged with the
men that T would exact of them no work except to take me in
the boat ; that they might fish when and as they pleased, bring-
ing me only enough for my family; all the remainder that
they could catch and dry should be theirs. Tt was a happy ar-
rangement. They were free from work ; and I was free from
superintendence.
Next day, Wednesday, the 21st, after a hasty breakfast we
followed in the boat the two canoes which had preceded us by
two hours, into the lagoon, to an island, where I put up the tent.
Tt being dry season, there was no probability of rain. The men
soon brought in fish. All day. there was only cooking, eating,
fishing, reading, singing, resting, sleeping, playing, and talking
with canoe-loads of Fanwe visitors. At 5 p. m. we of the boat
left for Manoel's house, taking enough fish for our supper, and
leaving the other men to their own devices for night-fishing.
As the Fanwe had no plantains for sale, T sent Imunga to an
adjacent Mpongwe trader, to enlist his aid. Xext day. Thurs-
day, the 22d. plantains came early. And, the occupations and
amusements of the previous day were repeated. Tn the middle
of the afternoon, we of the boat started tn return to Manoel's,
the canoes to follow later after some more fishing. Mary had
enjoyed the playing: and. T was agreeably surprised that she had
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 529
endured so well the irregular hours, and the being out at night
without apparent harm.
On Friday, the 23d, after breakfast we started homeward,
stopping at Sika's to buy thatch. There was lying the French
gunboat Turquoise, where it had arrested some trader. I had
so given myself to play with Mary at the camp, that she missed
me while I was busy ashore with the thatch. I found a com-
panion for her in the person of a little Mpongwe girl, Ngwanji.
Mary, in her own civilization, seemed to recognize the civiliza-
tion of the Mpongwe as superior (as it really was) to that of
the Fan we. Nevertheless, with the latter, she was pleased to
gratify their curiosity with her doll and little picture-book. We
were at Talaguga comfortably before sun-down. A notably
pleasant picnic. That function so successful, I repeated every
year of the remainder of my stay at Talaguga.
On Tuesday, the 27th, I resumed the work of revision of Mr.
Mackey's Benga grammar, for which I had been appointed by
the mission, but on which I had done nothing during the previous
two years.
With Mary, Charity and Ombagho, went the next day, to play
on the little sand-bank in the cove in front of Nyare's former
village. She enjoyed it. But, on the following day, I had to
distress her by ordering her sheep to be killed. Its constant
ba-a-ing became an unendurable rasp on my nerves.
On Monday. August 2d, Mr. Quayle passed up in a canoe, and
his crew shouted word that Agonjo-amwenge. a former employee
was dead. So, when the canoe returned, Akendenge and his
wife went down in it to attend the mourning. And, on the 5th,
as the Turquoise passed up, its crew left word that Akambie, one
of the first two volunteers at Talaguga in 1882, was dead at
Inenga. 1 made these deaths the subject of my remarks on Sun-
day, the 8th, the second anniversary of Mrs. Nassau's death.
On Friday, the 13th, in the Evangeline, with my sister and
baby Mary, started for an excursion, intending to go as far as
Asange ; but on reaching Alariga, Mary's sand-bank, I found
that her food had been forgotten by Charity. And. the excur-
sion had to be abandoned. Unless / attended to everything for
her, things would be forgotten. How I missed good Handi.
even with her occasional fits of sulking! The annoyance and
the warm sun gave me a bad headache. In the evening inquiry
class, Charity recited with us.
The next day, I went to the French Post, to try to buy milk
53Q MY OGOWE
and tea, of which I was almost out. Moiis. Kerraoul happened
to have an abundance ; and he loaned me tea, milk, coffee, and
chocolate. He was making a treaty with the Fafiwe. At the
Post. I was interested in seeing- a little boy, of the far-inland
Bateke tribe. After eating - my lunch on a forest path, I went
to call on Mr. Letz at his house. I took Mary a little ride in
the Swan. I thought that she was already beginning to recog-
nize its name as her " mother's boat."
The passage of steamers was frequent. They generally had
either a mail or a message. I valued their favors. But, on
Sunday, the 22d, while I was conducting morning-prayers, a boat
was sent ashore from a gunboat. The messenger bore a letter
to me from Mr. Wichula. So little did the man seem to know
about religion, that he stalked into the room and thrust the letter
at me while I was reading the Scripture. I waved him aside
for the few minutes until my service closed. As a soldier, he
thought of nothing else but the discharge of his errand ; probably
also, dreading any delay of the vessel.
On Tuesday, the 24th, on our way down to Yena for thatch,
we captured a young antelope swimming across the river. And,
at an Akele village, saw a fresh gorilla skull. On our return
we stopped in the forest, to skin our antelope, which took a long
time; for, I wished the skin to be carefully preserved. Fafiwe,
from passing canoes, stopped, and anxiously watched the proc-
ess. (In butchering, the natives did not flay their prey; they
ate skin and all.) We were back to Talaguga so late, that I
had to defer the weekly prayer-meeting until next evening; for,
I was only just in time to give a late attendance to Mary's food,
and then to put her to sleep.
Next day, with the Gambia, came a great blessing, in the
form of two carpenters, Benita men, the good Metyeba of 1884,
and the faithful Ingumu of 1874. On the 30th, the Gambia
came again, and left a letter from the doctor of the Pionnicr,
with a bill of $11 for surgical attendance on Imunga, in Febru-
ary. I was surprised, at a charge being made ; for, I had at the
time offered payment, and understood him to decline. I prob-
ably had not understood that the bill must first go through some
red-tape department.
On Wednesday, September 8, to my great relief, there came
Galwa canoes with plantains for sale. It was strange that the
Galwas would come more than seventy miles for a market, the
while that Fafiwe at my side were not willing to grow plantations
large enough to create a market. My Galwa employees had for
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 531
several days been sullenly uncomfortable with their farinya ra-
tions, I reserving my few plantains and cassava for the two car-
penters. The Galwas seemed to resent what they called my
favoritism of the superior Kombe tribe. But, that was not true.
In my contract with the carpenters, I was bound to provide them
a certain food. And, their work was, to me, so important and
more needed than that of ordinary boat-rowing and grass-cut-
ting. With this, I will dismiss further reference to the food
question at Talaguga; the difficulty continued more or less dur-
ing the remainder of my life there. Sometimes it was " a feast,"
at others, " a famine." On her return from a village visitation,
my sister told me that the curiosity of one man was so great
that, without her permission, he began to handle her hair. In my
company, Mrs. Nassau had sometimes allowed them to gratify
their curiosity in that way. On the return of the Swan from
those visitations, Mary usually expected a little special ride for
herself. She was in good health ; but, still weighing only twenty-
six pounds.
At noon of Friday, the 10th, one of my men, Agonjo
(" Paul ") seized a Fan we canoe as hostage for his chest and
goods stolen some weeks before. I permitted the seizure, as
( 1) it was made on the public highway, (2) the man and canoe
belonged to the village of the offender. In African law that is
sufficient ground for arrest. During the afternoon, a leopard's
tracks were seen near one of the bridges over the brook. In
the evening, Ntula came with Agonjo's goods that Aboga had
stolen ; and the canoe was released. There were signs of the
coming rainy season ; among others, the enormous flights of but-
terflies.
On Sunday, the 12th, made another change of hours with
Mary. I gave her food, as heretofore, at 11.30 a. m. ; but, in-
stead of her then going to sleep, she sat at the table with us.
And I did not lay her down, until 12.30 p. m. by which time, she
herself was ready to go to sleep.
For my Sunday evening lecture, I gave some thoughts on the
completion of twenty-five years of my mission-life: the day
being the anniversary of my landing at Corisco.
My canoe, sent only as far as Laseni's. on a plantain search,
returned successful, on the 16th. And. a Galwa canoe came with
over 2,000 dried kondo fish (prepared only in the dry season),
all of which I bought. And. my employees were happy. The
Mpongwe parents of the little girl Ngwanji from Vena, came
to get worm-medicine for her. (The natives were all afflicted
532 MY OGOWE
with intestinal worms. Santonin was constantly asked for.)
T had Metyeba make an important chancre in Mary's bath-
room. While it opened conveniently for me, into my bed-room,
the nurse, in coming from her room up-stairs, had to descend
into the sitting-room, and thence through the dining-room, to
reach that bath-room. I had him cut through the up-stairs floor,
and make a stairway directly down into the bath-room; a very
much shorter route for the nurse, and a greater convenience for
me. if I should need to call for her assistance.
My hen-coop had several times been invaded, and fowls
killed. As the door was safely locked, I knew that the invader
was not a human being. Xor. were there openings large enough
to admit a civet ("bush "-cat). I suspected a snake. Just as
T had begun the evening inquiry class meeting, on the 20th,
there was an outcry in the yard, in the rear of the house, where
were the nests of the setting hens. Hastening out, we saw the
snake gliding away; and lost it in the darkness.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
On Tuesday. September 2r, we were going to the Kangwe
communion. I made special preparations for my little Mary's
protection from rain, in the Nelly-Howard. T took a selected
crew, with my sister. Charity and Mary, and the boy Ombagho.
Hoping to make the sixty-five mile run in one day. T was up by
4 a. m. to load the boat; and off by 6 a. m. It was interesting
to watch our progress, hour by hour, as we passed well-known
points; and, at the fifth hour, stopped in the forest near Xgwilaka
for lunch, and rest of two hours. Then, in the afternoon, other
familiar points. At the Island " factory." we met the Gambia
with Messrs. Quayle and Bramwell. But. the sun set at the
twelfth hour near the Xgunye ; and. we stopped for the night in
a village near its mouth. Mary was a great curiosity to the
villagers. And. I was interested in a little boy. whom Mrs.
Nassau had noticed, as a babe, more than two years before.
Mary had been restless all day, with confinement in the boat.
Xow. she was keen to watch the goats, and dogs, and babies.
We reached Andcnde house, the next day. the 22d, by ro a. m.
Mr. (rood was absent at Lembarene trading-houses. There was
an afternoon church-service. After which, came a messenger
from Lembarene with a mail, just brought by the F alalia, and
word that that vessel had on board fifty boxes and packages of
my English and American orders. Also, that my dear friend
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 533
Njivo, wife of Candidate Mbora, was there, awaiting transporta-
tion to Kangwe. I went at once, to see about my goods; and
brought Njivo.
On Friday, the 24th, it was thrilling to witness, all day, the
arrivals of the native Christians, and to listen to their welcomes.
I preached, in the afternoon.
Next day, I went to Lembarene with my crew, to assist them
in their "shopping."' Those quarterly journeys were great
occasions for my people to spend their month's wages. The
supply of goods at Lembarene was so much greater in quantity
and variety, in the thousands of dollars laden shelves of the
English, German, and French houses, than I had at Talaguga in
my few hundreds.
At the communion service on Sunday, the 26th, there were
four baptisms ; and, large accessions reported, to the catechumen
class.
On the Monday, went with Mr. Good to call on the French
commandant, in a conference about our mission affairs. En-
gaged new employees, and crew for the kongongo of Mr. Good,
in which I was to take some of my new supplies.
RETURN TO TALAGUGA.
On Tuesday, the 28th, heavily laden, in the boat, so crowded
that the six oars could not be used ; instead, paddles for a crew
of nine, and the kongongo, also laden, with seven paddles, we
started homeward. Pulling- was slow among the channels to
the point on the right bank of the Ngunye mouth by n a. m.
Resting there for two hours, we reached the Island " factory "
after dark, for the night. The next morning, with the loan of
a rain-coat from Mr. Bramwell, we started early, hoping to
reach Laseni's by night; for, I was taking his niece Njivo to
visit him. But, we failed to reach Laseni's ; and stopped for the
night in the miserable huts of a Bivum clan. The people were
very rude and thievish. Ombagho and Njivo's little servant,
Davis, had their sleeping mats and nets stolen. I complained to
the chief; and, he restored a portion of them. It was a very
trying night to Mary and to us all.
The next day, Thursday, we stopped at Laseni's, for Njivo
to debark. Her uncle was absent, having gone down-river to
meet her, not knowing that she was coming with me. For the
night, we stopped at Bitaga, at our picnic hut, Manoel's com-
fortable house. But, the kongongo, under Akendenge, went on
to Sika's, below Njomu. and was caught in a heavy rain. The
534 MY OGOWE
next day, Friday, October I, a rudder-pin broke. I stopped at
Xdona-nyare's Njomu, for rq>airs. He was very helpful; he
found in his hut, a meat-hook, which T was able to fasten into
temporary service. On our farther way, near Walker's, I saw
three of my people, whom I had left in charge, burying one of
their relatives, who had been in the employ of the trader
Antyuvva. As Ombagho included the dead man among his rela-
tives, he at once lifted his voice in wailing. We were home
again before sun-down.
The next day, was a bright hot day, and the wet boxes and
goods were dried. A church-bell had arrived. Carpenter
Metyeba was gone ; but Tngumu erected the bell in good ringing
order.
On Monday, the 4th, Mr. Good's kongongo was sent back to
him, with Mr. Bramwell's coat to be returned fin the way.
In the afternoon of Saturday, the 9th, with Mary in her
mother's Swan, I went up-river to the Bindube clan villages.
The first Saturday village-itineration I had made for a year!
During that time I had been depending on my sister for that
service. But, now, with my two-year-old little girl's increasing
strength, I felt safe to go myself and take her with me.
Monday, the nth, was my fifty-first anniversary birthday.
In the afternoon, came the Gambia with my forty-nine cases,
etc., of tools, provisions, and other supplies. Then, for several
days, I was very busy unpacking, listing, labeling- prices, and
storing on shelves these treasures. To prevent the flooding of
the kitchen, as in a year before, I had earth carried to fill in and
raise the clay floor.
On Tuesday, the 19th, I was arranging to go down as far as
Laseni's, for plantains, and to invite Njivo to come and visit us.
Just then, some canoes came with plantains; and I doubted
whether I needed to go. But, the next day, while I was deciding
to go, there came to me such strong premonitions not to do so,
that, had I been superstitious, I would have l>een afraid. Not be-
lieving in premonitions, I went. We had only rounded the point
at Sika's. when 1 saw a steamer at anchor at Bitaga. As I pro-
ceeded, the vessel lifted anchor, and came to meet me. It was
the Akele; and Njivo, with her two children. Abidi and Onyenge
(by her first husband) were on board, coming to visit me. The
Akele took me in tow; and we were home early in the afternoon.
(My premonition was a good one ; I need not have gone.) Mary
was glad to see two new civilized playmates. And, Njivo's
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 535
presence, during her week's visit, was a great aid and comfort,
in her devotion to myself, and in the motherly tact and love that
she showed to my child.
One day, I took my visitor and her children to the hill, with
my Mary, to show them her mother's cottage, and the Pool of
the brook.
On Monday, the 25th, my friend announced that she would
finish her visit, if 1 could send her down to Kangwe; which I
did with her children on the 27th, in the kongongo, and a crew
of six. Mary missed very much her motherly love, and the
happy games with her well-trained little girl and boy. For my-
self, though I had known Njivo since she was a little child, and
had had much intimate acquaintance with her during her girl-
hood and young womanhood, that week's association revealed
to me her good traits more than ever before. She had a
womanly character quite above all native women I had met.
In her confidences with me, and the revelation of trials she had
endured, I saw a secret heroism which I had not before known.
She was the loveliest native Christian woman I met in Africa.
While we were at evening-prayers of November 3, my ko-
ngongo which I had sent on October 21, down-river for plantains,
was heard with its boat-songs. On the crew landing, I found
that they were accompanied by some of my former employees,
Re-Mondo, Abumba and wife, Mamba and wife and baby, and
two new little boys. There was great rejoicing among my peo-
ple. The presence of the two women would make Talaguga
more home-like; and, I hoped that my employees would be less
restless. The kongongo had brought also, besides its supply of
plantains, a mail, and a long-expected box from my Lawrence-
ville, N. J., relatives, containing among other good things, a
photograph of Mary's mother, and a copy of Stanley's " Kongo
Free-State." I spent most of the 4th in paying the crew, re-
reading the mail, and arranging the papers and articles that had
come in the box.
On Wednesday, the 10th, I sent the Swan, with my sister, to
take the little Faiiwe boy Biye to visit his village. I sent
Mamba or Akendenge, on alternate Saturdays, to do the work
of itineration in my stead. I had now twenty-five natives, men,
women, and children, being fed on the premises. As some of
the workmen were skilled, and did not need my constant super-
vision, and, as Charity affiliated with the three other women,
taking Mary with her, I had time to resume my revision of the
Benga grammar.
536 MY OGOWE
Nyamba had not come for a long time. I felt that it was a
neglect; for, I had been kind to her. One day, she came, bring-
ing a woman who wanted medicine. I gave it ; but, I upbraided
Nyamba, for coming to me only when she was in need. During
those days, some Fanwe, from down-river, stayed over night
and all of the next day, fearing to go on, because of enemies at
a certain village beyond. They were safe while they remained
with me. With the large number of employees, I had the
grounds, all around the house, put in cleaner and neater order
than they had been, for months.
On Thursday, the 18th, the Akclc came, with Mr. Good as
passenger, a supply of plantains, and a mail. He came to con-
sult about our future expected troubles from the French au-
thorities, in regard to schools and other topics. He left early
the next morning. The Akcle had brought also a precious box
from my dear brother William and his wife, of Burlington, Iowa,
with gifts of food, and other luxuries, and shoes and stockings
for my little Alary.
To the services of Sunday, the 21st, came the trader Antyuwa
and many Fanwe. They had had a quarrel about stealing,
which he had reported to me on the Saturday night. But, they
had settled it ; and, to prove that, came together to the " peace-
house."
Early in the evening of Monday, the 22d, a steamer's whistle
was heard. And, after prayers, I went down to Walker's and
found both the Falaba and Gambia. I chatted on the deck of
the latter for an hour. And, then came away with gifts, a
basket of potatoes and onions, and a package from kind Airs,
(iood. I sat up late, writing a long letter to the president of our
foreign mission board. Rev. Dr. Wells; which I carefully revised
next day ; and sent it by the Gambia on the 24th.
On Thursday, the 25th, Mamba returned from a three days'
itineration to Erere-volo, bringing word that friend Ndoiia-ma-
vufia was dead. I began to collect material, a year in advance.
with which to build a chapel on the little island. The work-
though slowly, was decidedly growing for both school and
church. Little trees and plants I had brought from Lembarene,
were growing. Among others, a cherry-guava from Air. Sin-
clair.
It was difficult sometimes to know the secret reasons for some
of the actions of my people. They were expected to attend both
morning and evening prayers. But, I had no hard and fast rule;
individual absences were allowed, especially if any reasonable
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 537
excuse were given. But, when no one came from the " Nkami "
hut, in the morning of December 2d, it looked like conspiracy.
So, I gave them neither food nor work that morning. Then,
spitefully, they stayed away from work in the afternoon. And,
yet, with apparent piety, they came to inquiry class meeting in
the evening! But, I was not deceived; for, I smelt the odor of
liquor, and knew that some one had been drinking rum.
On one of those days came the Gambia, bringing as passenger,
Laseni and a lot of plantains, with which he bought tools. I
had much satisfaction in my order of American tools. Several
white traders, Messrs. Letz, Wichula, and others had admired
them ; and, I parted with them for only plantains. So, the food-
question was comfortably settled for a time.
On Wednesday, the 8th, with my sister, and Alary and her
attendants, I went up-river in my large boat, on an excursion.
I had adorned the boat with an American flag. We met a
French gunboat. As it passed us, a native soldier shouted to
us, " Igavi ! " (war). What he meant by that, I did not know;
nor, was there time to inquire ; for. the vessel's own motion, and
the river's current rapidly carried her from us. My sister sug-
gested, that, perhaps, offense was taken at my not having saluted
with the flag. And, then, it occurred to me, that, perhaps, the
flag itself was an offense. So, I took it down. [Subsequently,
I learned, at Libreville, that, except at a consulate, foreign flags
were allowable no where on the outdoor premises, and only in-
doors, as a decoration.] We ate our lunch in the forest, and
leaving my sister with the little boy Biye at his village, I went
with Mary, on to Asange Post, to settle some bills for the year.
Saturday, December 11. was a busy day; all morning my
annual inventory of " goods on hand " ; and, in the afternoon,
giving out rations of meat. etc.. etc.. to Mamba and Ingumu,
whom I had appointed in charge during my expected absence
at the annual meetings at Gaboon.
JOURNEY TO KAXGWE AXD LIBREVILLE.
By 8 a. m. of Thursday, the 16th, in the Nelly-Hoivard, and
a canoe, with a company of fourteen souls, men, women and
children, we began our excited journey. Our noon meal and
rest was in Xjalele's trading-house at Erere-volo. We remem-
bered days in the past when those Fanwe villages were passed
in fear! Another little stop was made at Laseni's. near the
mouth of Abange Creek. There, his wife Alida gave my Mary
a plump little dog. " Don " became a great treasure. For the
538 MY OGOWE
night, we stopped in the comfortable shelter of Mr. Bram well's
" Island factory."
The next day, in company with a canoe of Mr. Bramwell's,
we resumed journey, expecting to meet, at Lembarene, the Fa-
laba, which, we heard, had arrived from Gaboon. But, in pass-
ing down one channel on a side of Walker's Island, opposite the
Ngunye mouth, it happened, that that vessel, at that very time,
was passing up on the other side, unseen by us. When we
reached the lower end of the island, the Falaba was seen steam-
ing up the Ngunye. And, perhaps, it had mail for me, on board !
We reached the Andende house during the morning. In the
afternoon, went to the German house, on business; but, both
Messrs. Lubcke and Schiff were absent.
Next clay, in company with Mr. Good, I went to the French
Post, to pay our official respects ; and, to the English house, to
inquire about passage on the Falaba to Libreville. At the Ger-
man house again ; and, paid my year's bills. The Elobi and
Duala were both lying there. That house did much in collecting
zoological specimens for Hamburg. Mr. Schiff had in hand, at
that time, a young elephant.
On Sunday, the 19th, I preached for Mr. Good in the morning.
My dear friend Njivo's husband, Evangelist Mbora, I had sent
on Saturday in a canoe with five of my people, to speak in the
Ajumba villages down the smaller branch of the river.
On Monday, the commandant came in his gunboat, to return
our call of Saturday. He brought a sick man for medication ;
and, he inspected the station.
All the remainder of that week, we were awaiting the return
of the Falaba. Changes of hours and food were having a bad
effect on my child. It was unusually early for the quarterly
communion ; but, the distant members of the church had been
notified ; and, it was exceedingly interesting to watch the con-
stant arrivals as they " came up to Jerusalem." Continuous
daily religious services and session-meetings began on Thurs-
day, the 23d.
My sister had offered to have Mary sleep with her, as I had
brought no crib. But, the child was dissatisfied, and returned
to my bed. That night, she had a fright. A cat, in its search
for rats, leaped from an over-head beam (like most of our houses,
at that time, Andende had no ceilings) on to our mosquito-net.
The force broke the net's suspending strings; and the whole net,
frame, cat, and all fell on her in the l>ed. The terrified cat was
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 539
howling, and, in its efforts to escape from the net's meshes, was
scratching Mary's face. The shock was very alarming.
Of Christmas, I took little note.
The Falaba returned from the Ngunye. On my going to the
English house, Mr. Smith (Mr. Sinclair's successor) assured me
that the vessel should not start on Sunday, but would wait for
me until Monday. Although I had urged Njivo into her mar-
riage with Mbora, I had afterwards many a regret. He was her
inferior in every respect. They had a quarrel ; and, she came to
me, as her " father," to judge between them. Not a pleasant
position for her or him or me.
Though it was showery on Sunday, the 26th, the church was
full. There were eight additions on profession ; and eighty more
enrolled in the inquiry class, which already had a list of seventy.
I was glad to see this reaping, under Mr. Good's watering, where
I had first sown from 1876 to 1880.
In recognition of the trader's concession to my objection to
Sabbath travel, by the delay of the Falaba, I made all haste to
be on hand early on Monday morning the 27th. I was up by 2
a. m., to load the boat. At 4.15 a. m., with Mr. Good, my sister,
my Mary and Pawa, Abumba's young wife (temporarily in
place of Charity), and several of my employees, we started on
the hour's pull around the head of the island to the English
house of H. & C, where we found that there had been a small-
pox patient on the vessel. But, he had been put ashore before
we arrived. There was also an insane man on board. Captain
Bachman started at 6 a. m. Gliding uneventfully, we anchored
for the night at Nango.
And the next day, early and smoothly, on down past Angala,
emerging into Nazareth Bay, and out on to a quiet sea; and at
night, anchored at sea, half-way to the Gaboon. On the 29th,
the sea was still smooth, and nobody sick. (How often I had
been sick on the painful Hudson, over that course!) Mary was
enjoying the voyage. We entered the Gaboon estuary in com-
pany with the English ocean-steamer Bcnguela, just arrived from
Liverpool, anchoring in the afternoon. Rev. W. C. Gault came
for us. On the beach were welcomes from Mrs. Boardman and
my excellent Mrs. Sneed. And, we were soon comfortably set-
tled at Baraka.
Then, next day, Thursday, the 30th, began, and continued, for
more than a month, a series of excitements on the side of Libre-
ville civilization, that were like electric shocks, after my year's
540 MY OGOWE
seclusion in the Ogowe wilderness. The mail was to be read.
There were formal calls of welcome, with much show of foreign
etiquette mixed with native form, from the Mpongwe minister,
Rev. Ntaka Truman, the American negro lady, Mrs. Boardman,
photographer Joaque ; Licentiate Kongolo and Elder Uhemba
from Benita and others. Mrs. Gault presented Mary with a dress ;
and, the other Baraka ladies gave her New Year playthings.
" New Year " was a new phrase to her. An American Methodist
missionary, Edwin Small, M.D., from Maryland, a passenger
from the Bcngucla, on his way south to the Kongo ; and an Eng-
lish trader on his way to Camma ; Rev. A. W. Marling, from
his Angom station up the Gaboon ; my tramping to the trading-
houses of Holt, Sajoux, and Bettencourt. at the Plateau, seeking
for supplies of milk, dried fish, and kerosene; Mrs. Boardman's
intoxication at the church preparatory service on Friday after-
noon. And, her outrageous conduct, when summoned before the
session, the next morning. (She had been indulging too freely
in New Year's celebration.) The French Governor Ballay's
annual soiree, on Saturday night, January i ; which I attended,
with Messrs. Gault and Marling. At church, on Sunday, the 2d.
it was strange to see other than negro faces ; among them was a
Mr. Moyer, the chief in charge of the telegraph company. In
the afternoon. I stayed by Mary, for her usual nap; but, reached
the communion service witli her, just in time. She was dressed
very prettily. On Monday, the 3d, came into the harbor, the
United States gunboat, Quinnebaug. The natives were familiar
with French. English. German, and other national war-vessels.
They had asked slightingly whether America " had no power."
On one of my furloughs to the United States, I had called on
the Secretary of the Navy, at Washington, and had requested
that he occasionally order a vessel to show the United States
Hag in the Gaboon. He consented; and, thereafter, once in two
or three years, a vessel was detached from the squadron in the
Mediterranean, and visited the West Coast of Africa as far
south as the equator. On Tuesday, the 4th. mission meeting
began. Three officers from the Quinnebaug, called. Lieuten-
ants Franklin J. Drake, Frederic Singer, and Randolph Dickens.
Thev invited us to visit the vessel. We did so, on Wednesday,
the 5th. my sister. Miss Lydia Jones, and Mary and I. We
met Commander George W. Coffin. Lieutenant Commander
Charles S. S]>errv. Lieutenant Nelson T. Houston, and
Surgeon James R. Tyson. (All these officers have since
then been promoted, and must of them have retired.) My little
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 541
girl was a rare sight, on that coast, to the young ensigns. They
petted her, carried her, and set her up as a little queen on one
of the big cannon. As a memorial to Mrs. Nassau, at the sug-
gestion of Secretary Ellinwood, the W.' F. M. Societies had
given to the mission, in 1886, a sailing vessel, the Mary-Nassau,
in place of the old slow Hudson. While we were on the Quinne-
baug, the Mary-Nassau came in from the north. We left the
gunboat, and I took Mary to see her mother's " little ship."
It had brought, for presbytery. Rev. F. S. Myongo, and other
natives. And Rev. Mr. Ibiya had come in his own boat from
Corisco. Presbytery adjourned on afternoon of Monday, the
10th ; and mission on Wednesday, the 12th. My duties as stated
clerk left Mary to many irresponsible hands, with whom, irregu-
lar eating and sleeping caused her a week's illness, a bilious
attack, that made me anxious. Arranging with Joaque for a
photo of Mary, who had a strange unwillingness to have a
camera pointed at her. The sailing north of the Mary-Nassau,
with the Benita visitors. I preached in the church on Sunday,
the 1 6th. Several steamers going and coming during those days.
A new line, from Havre to the Kongo. The steamer Ella-
Wdermann, from Hamburg, came, bringing me a box from my
Nassau relatives in Warsaw, N. Y., with gifts for Mary. One
day. I walked far beyond the Plateau, inquiring in vain, at every
little shop, for children's toys. On Wednesday, the 19th, came
the Nubia, Captain Davis, having passengers for Bp. Win. Tay-
lor's Methodist mission in the Kongo. I visited the Nubia, and
brought two of them ashore for the day, Mr. and Mrs. Hicks
and their two little children. Another day, I took tea with
Mary, at Mrs. Sneed's. The harbor was alive with the coming
and going of vessels. At the Plateau dispensary, I supplied my-
self with vaccine matter, for possible need in the Ogowe. On
Sunday, the 30th, I preached at both the English and the
Mpongwe services, and assisted in the Sabbath school singing,
and at Mr. Gault's Benga song-service. Mary had a slight
cough that made me suspect whooping-cough.
RETURN JOURNEY TO TTIE OGOWE, OX Fcilaba.
Finally, on Saturday, February 5th, I found a steamer, the
Falaba, returning to the Ogowe, on which we could take passage.
In my earlier Ogowe years, I never thought of depending on
steamers; for, they were, at that time, few. If one happened
to coincide with my date. I was glad to take it. But, I never
waited for it. I depended on the mission cutter and my own
54^ MY OGOWE
boat. But, with a little child, I would not risk the seventy-five
miles to Nazareth Bay in an open boat. We hurried away,
early in the morning, from Baraka, so as not to detain the ves-
sel, and were on board by sun-rise. Even, then, however, there
was a delay in taking up the anchor, it being fouled with an old
cast-away. The ocean was smooth ; and we anchored at night
at sea.
The next day, Sunday, in attempting to enter Nazareth Bay,
the vessel grounded : but, moved off with the rising tide : and,
at night, anchored at Angala. The Akcle was lying there. I
would have transferred to it, as a more comfortable vessel: but,
it intended to go slowly, stopping at all villages, to buy thatch.
The next day, after going a short distance, the worn-out en-
gine (of the wearied old Pioneer) was out of order ; and a stop
was made all day for repairs. The following day. we reached
Kamaranga, a little below the seventy-mile point of Ngumbe.
On the Qth. Wednesday, we passed Igenja. There, two of my
people, Re-Ndiva and Etendi, recognized and hailed us. I told
them to follow in their canoe, and join us at night. Which they
did, near Nandipo. Mary was glad to see Etendi ; his services
as cook she rememl^ered. There was a Roman Catholic priest
on board, who made advances which I would have accepted as
sincere, if I could have forgotten the machinations of his associ-
ates against me at Talaguga, and their tearing to pieces the Bible
and school-books of Mr. Good's pupils.
The next day, Thursday, the ioth. at Oranga, stopping for
wood, we found Mr. Good and his boat, on an itineration. The
steamer took him in tow. And. by night, we reached Lemba-
rene. Leaving my company on board, T hasted along the shore
path to the new German house, to ask Mr. Stein for passage to
Talaguga. on the Akcle expected next day. He refused. ( The
only unkindnesses I received from traders in the Ogowe. were
from Germans.) It was late, and I was not well. T returned
to the Falaba for Mary : and. leaving my baggage, went with
Mr. Good in his boat, to the Andende house, by 9 p. m.
The next day. with Mr. Good, T went to get my baggage.
Though not feeling very well, T walked with him in the after-
noon to the hill-house, by a route that he had opened. Though
circuitous, it was really easier than my old steep zig-zag path :
for, by a long gradual ascent it went around the heads of the
two ravines. We called it " Mr. Good's Path." The following
day. I had fever, and was unable to go to the French house.
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 543
in order to ask Mr. Sajou for passage up-river. Mr. Good went
for me. And, I preached for him on Sunday.
As Mr. Sajou's vessel was not going up the Ogowe, I would
not wait longer. I already had been almost two months from
my Talaguga work. With my own boat and eight crew, and
my own canoe with four of Mr. Good's men, and only a portion
of my goods, I decided, on Monday, the 14th, to go, hoping that
we might escape the occasional hot-dry season storms. My
company was my sister, and Mary with Pawa. And, I engaged
Aveya's sister Aziza (another incompetent) in place of Charity,
who, during my absence, had accepted a position as " temporary
wife " of the trader at the " Island factory." While I felt in-
dignant at him, my feeling toward her was only of pity. Her
relation with the white man, and that of hundreds of other civ-
ilized young women on the coast, many of them educated in the
various mission schools, was one which. I thought (and still
think) called in many w r ays for a charitable explanation, and not
an indiscriminate denunciation of them as " fallen women."
True ; there was a class of native women, who, in their readiness
for solicitation by any white man at any time, were only harlots.
Also, there was another and higher class, who, knowing, from
universal native custom, no other mode of marriage than sale
by their parents, did accept a white man's contract, at a stipu-
lated monthly price. But. they were faithful to the one man.
Then, there were a few, in a still higher class, who accepted offers
from a white man, not for money, but because their affections
dictated, precisely as among any other civilized young women.
They accepted love and respect and protection and comfort, far
beyond what a native husband could or would offer (most of
whom claimed the right to beat a wife). Those young women
were modest, and, I believe virtuous. They were faithful to the
white man, as his wife. When he went on his European fur-
lough, they virtuously held themselves in reserve for his return.
True, there was no marriage ceremony. But, at that time, a
church-ceremony was not required of even our church-members,
except of church-officers. Those young women I regarded as
modest and true. They knew that, in Europe, there were recog-
nized " morganatic " marriages ; and, in some of the United
States, valid " common-law " marriages. Their misfortune was
that the white " husband " was not as true as they. He ex-
pected, some day. to abandon the woman, when he should finally
return to Europe, where, possibly, he had a white wife.
544 MY OGOWE
The white trader at the " Island factory " had seen Charity
when I had stopped there on former journeys, and had been
given hospitality by him. But. it would have been trying for
me to go there again, and find her in his hands. So, for the
night, I stopped at a village of Ovenga. But, it was a wretched
night. Hot, and the huts close. And, a man, in a hut next to
ours, was savagely beating his wife. The sound of her screams
rang in my ears long after her sobbings had ceased.
Xext morning, Tuesday, the 15th, before leaving, I denounced
the chief and his people. Stopped, for the night, at Belambla.
On the 16th, rain prevented an early start; but, we reached the
civilization and courtesy of Laseni and his niece Njivo, for the
mid-day meal and rest. When we resumed journey in the after-
noon, I added Njivo and her little boy Onyenge, on my invita-
tion for a visit to Talaguga. A very heavy rain caught us ; and
we huddled under the little stern shelter, where T held the rud-
der, my sister, Mary and Pawa and Aziza, Njivo and Onyenge,
barely keeping dry, while the crew and my boxes were thor-
oughly wet. The night was passed at the Nkogo village, where
we were well-received. The next day. rain again hindered an
early start. But, a good run was made to Yeiia, for the noon
rest. And, then, a fine long pull brought us late at night to
our Talaguga home.
On Friday, the 1 8th. after settling accounts with the crews.
T started my large canoe, with eleven of my own people, under
Mamba, to take back Mr. Good's three men. and to return with
the boxes I had left at Kangwe.
Mary's symptoms, which I had suspected at Libreville, as
whooping-cough, became more pronounced.
On Monday, the 21st. to my surprise. Mamba returned, with
the canoe-load of goods! On his way down, on Friday, he had
met the Gambia bringing those goods; had. on Saturday, been
towed up as far as Walker's; and had remained there over
Sunday.
My little Mary was oppressed with her whooping-cough, and
needed much nursing. So incompetent were the young Galwa
assistants, and the strain on my nursing-care so great, since
Handi had left, that T wrote to Mrs. Gault at Libreville, to en-
deavor to obtain forme. A-nve-ntyu-wa (Jenny Harrington) the
elder sister of my friend Njivo.
On Friday, the 25th, Mr. Letz came, just before dinner, for
me to examine his swollen ear. After dinner, he kindlv tried
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 545
to fix some of the silent keys on Mrs. Nassau's organ. But,
that organ was too complicated to be repaired on a short exam-
ination. A storm was coming, and he had to leave. Mamba,
wife and child, all of them sick, left on Saturday, the 26th, to
return to their home at Igenja. I felt a doubt whether he would
return, even if he should recover. He was a good worker, and
a faithful friend; but, his Christian life was not growing. I
sent Paul Agon jo on Monday with canoe and crew, to return
my pleasant visitor Nljivo to her uncle Laseni at Abange, and to
buy provisions. I remained those days watching my little Mary,
whose cough was making her weak.
On Thursday, March 3, Agonjo returned. But, I was dis-
pleased with his being absent so long; and, for having given an
extravagant price for odika. As he said that he thought it was
worth the price he had paid, I took him at his word, and made
him keep the odika, and pay me from his wages. Also, I fined
him, not for delay, but for delaying on errands of his own ; and
for loading the canoe with goods that were not mine. (His
old trading habit still clung to him.) I was depressed at his
lack of faithfulness. Pawa, Mary's nurse, had been sick for
some time, and was not well enough to help me in the care of
the child. So, on Sunday I told my sister that I had written
for either Anyentyuwa or Handi to come to my aid.
On Wednesday, the 9th, with my sister, Mary and her nurse,
I went on an excursion to Asange. But. on the way, as rain
came, I left them at a Fanwe village, and went on to the Post,
where I was received courteously.
I went to Ndona-nyare's to buy thatch. The people had none,
except what was owned on trust, by the Asange officials. As
my need was great, I yielded, for the first time among the Fanwe
in the Ogowe, to the necessity of custom, and gave out $25
(goods) " in trust." It was a " system " that I had always
opposed.
Mary's cough was improving; the paroxysms were less fre-
quent ; and she seemed more lively. During those days, there
were heavy tornadoes. Some large trees were blown down near
the dwelling-house.
With the season so rainy, and Mary still coughing, I did not
think it my duty to go to the Kangwe quarterly communion.
But, giving my sister a crew of seven, she went, in her Evan-
geline, on Wednesday, the 23d. Mary, now in her third year,
had become a pleasant little play-mate, with whom to recreate
herself out of her teaching hours. The child said " Ta! " (her
546 MY OGOWE
word for "good-by") as her aunt entered the boat; but, she
did not cry, and was satisfied with Pawa.
Shortly after my sister had gone, came Mr. Letz from Asange.
with Mons. Du Val and another Frenchman. They remained
to dinner. I made a special draft on my canned provisions :
mutton, pork cutlets, sausage, lima beans, rice : and, for the des-
sert, plum-pudding, pie, cherries ; and tea, limeade, and sherbet.
Mary sat on my lap almost through the meal. Before dinner, 1
had showed the gentlemen through the house. After dinner, I
took them over the premises, past the grave, to the brook, up the
hill to my old cottage (used by Mamba), down again to the boat-
shed : and returned, showing them my fruit trees ; and gave them
young trees of orange, pitanga, and Avocado pear. Then, Mary
asked for her milk, and went to sleep. Etendi had done well
in cooking the dinner ; Ombagho and Aziza served. And. Mary
had not fretted.
I had carpenter Tngumu cut up the old kongongo. as it was too
rotten to be mended. Thus, some of the land-marks of 1882
were disappearing: the original hut had fallen in 1886. next, the
kongongo just gone, and the boat-shed was threatening to go.
Friday, April t. At night. T had a strange sleeplessness. I
felt eerie. T imagined that I heard strange sounds. While
lying thus intensely awake, at 11.30 p.m. I heard the front-
porch door slowly open and shut. My sister was still absent
at Kangwe : and. besides myself and little Mary there was no
one in the house, but Aziza. Suspecting her. T rose and dressed;
and. at midnight, found that she was not in her up-stairs room.
T studied what might be her object in leaving the house, and.
remembering that she was often unnecessarily in the kitchen with
cook Etendi, I went out-doors. And. at 12.30 a. m. I found her
at his hut in his 1>ed. He was speechless: and she fled to one of
the other out-houses where was one of her relatives. I said
nothing: and left investigation until the next day.
Tn the afternoon of Saturday, the 2<1. my sister returned from
Kangwe with a mail. At night. I read my mail, especially a
letter from Mrs. Gault, about my request for Handi to return to
my service. But, there was not much hope. She was unwilling
to expose herself to my sister's authority. And. 1 was debating
with myself about the probable necessity of dismissing both
Etendi and Aziza.
On Sunday, the 3d, Mary, for the first time, sat throughout
the entire morning service. At night. T arranged for the journey
of the canoe to take to their homes the two delinquents, and
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 547
Akendenge and his wife on a vacation. Next day, the canoe
and company left. It was a doleful beginning of the week.
On Wednesday, the 6th, in the afternoon, in the Swan, I went
to visit my friend Count De Brazza, at the post. On the way,
I found him at Xjoli. on his gunboat Saphire. He took me on
board, towed the Swan, and very affably told me his plans of
removing the Post from Asange down to Xjoli (his originally
chosen site). On my return, I gave Mary a litte ride in " her "
boat. This decision of De Brazza (though never carried out)
more than ever confirmed me in my belief in the correctness of
my refusal to locate my Talaguga station on Njoli. (True, at
the present day, my successors, the French Protestant mission,
have removed old Talaguga to Njoli ; but, they as French, might
do what I could not. Also, when they did make their change,
there were no signs of government claim on Njoli ; which was
not the case in 1882.)
Early in the morning of Wednesday, the 13th, a Frenchman,
who gave his name as Louis Dunod, stopped to salute us, and
took breakfast with us. He said that he held the office of chief
inspector of the Upper Ogowe. His speech and manner were
unlike that of other Frenchmen ; and I imagined him to be a
spy. After he was gone, I went to Njomu, for thatch. Chief
Xjega was absent in the forest: and I had to wait for him two
hours. In the house where I sat, were marks of the slugs where,
the night before, Benayel clan had come, and shooting through
the bark wall, had killed a man. While I was loading my thatch
in the canoe, the Akclc came on its way. Mr. Busch, on board,
kindly offered to tow the canoe, which was too overloaded for
my crew properly to paddle. On board also was the Portuguese
Manoel, coming to relieve the trader Antyuwa. Mary unusually
fretful in her evening bath. I had only a short inquiry class
meeting. I was informed of an action of the Asange officials
(including even my friend De Brazza) in their shooting the
chief of a Fariwe village near Njoli, that seemed to me not only
arbitrary, but treacherous. The Gambia came on Wednesday,
the 27th, with mail, and two boxes, one of medicines from Bur-
roughs & Welcome; the other from Lawrenceville. X'. J., rela-
tives, containing, among other good things, books that I had
ordered, and shoes for Mary.
Just after dinner of the 29th, three traders, Messrs. Letz,
Mooney, and Rene, made a short call. Mr. Rene came from a
far interior place, as De Brazza had ordered the river to be
closed to all white men, other than French, beyond Xjoli.
548 MY OGOWE
On Monday, May 2, a Fan we brought a fowl for sale ; a very
unusual event! By that time the tribe near me had become so
engrossed with the largely increased number of trading-houses,
that they ceased almost entirely to come to me.
On Thursday, the 5th, went to Njomu for thatch. Njega
was not at home. I went to Sika's to call him. Returned;
bought the thatch ; and held a meeting. On my previous
journey there, I had seen a little child with a bad case of in-
guinal hernia. The villagers were doing nothing for it ; they
rather laughed at it, as if it was something funny. Now, the
child was dead. While I was at Njomu, the Duala passed down,
having aboard Mr. Scruff, who, I was told, was finally leaving
the river.
Tapoyo, Mr. Letz's new Mpongwe trader at Ntula's, came to
see me, with several of Nyare's people, who had not visited me for
a long while. One of them was the tall man, the one of Nyare's
dozen, who had most efficiently interfered for me in my fight
against him in November, 1883.
Many signs of the coming cool dry season ; murky atmosphere,
cool winds, the birds of the season, though rains had not entirely
ceased.
There being some reported cases of small-pox, I vaccinated
Mary. But, though she really tried to bear it, she was so afraid
of the lancet, that she cried, and, in her resistance, the lancet cut
too deeply. From the amount of blood, I feared that the vac-
cine had not been able to enter her system. Next day, I heard
bad news about Mamba and Akendenge. On Saturday, the
14th, Mr. Letz came to say good-by, as he had been promoted
to Lembarene, to take Mr. Scruff's place. He left Alionet, a
Goree Mohammedan, in charge of the Asange house.
The Conqucz came slowly by in the evening of Monday, the
23d; and Count De Brazza came ashore, just as we were at tea.
He joined us at the table, and petted Mary, who took his atten-
tions very nicely.
On the 25th, I sent to Asange houses to obtain a duplicate of
a vessel I had accidentally broken. My messenger was success-
ful ; but, on his way. had been hindered by the French, who were
working at their new premises on the upper end of Njoli Island.
I had a bad headache, most of the day; and, Mary's tenderness
was very touching in her wishing to kiss away the pain, as I had
often done for her.
Sunday, the 29th, was a clear beautiful day. reminding me of
September days in the United States. In the afternoon, the
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 549
Falaba passed up; the first time she had ventured to go farther
than my house.
On Thursday, June 2, I made a call on the trader Alionet. I
saw De Brazza's photographer, and two enormous mastiffs, and
carrier-pigeons ; which he was taking with him to the Kongo in-
terior. As I returned, I saw the sites which were assigned for
traders' houses, near Njoli, when the post should be removed
thither from Asange.
I saw some Fariwe children trespassing at the mouth of the
brook. Of course, I encouraged all natives to come to my
house; but I did not allow them to wander over the premises,
and cut trees, or dig, or otherwise appropriate the ground.
When I ordered the children away, one of them, a girl, said that
she thought she had a right to be there, because she was " Ntula's
daughter ! "
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
It being the dry season, it was safe to travel with Mary. So,
on Wednesday, the 22d, I went to the quarterly communion at
Kangwe. With my sister, and Mary, Abumba and wife, Agonjo
and child, and four other men, and stopping on errands at vari-
ous places, we were at Erere-volo, for lunch with Njalele; and,
then, before sunset, to Aveya, who still was in charge of Be-
lambla. The night was very bad with mosquitoes ; my Mary
was kept awake by them, and crying.
The next day, stopping at a village below the Ngunye, we
were at Andende early in the afternoon. Church-members were
already beginning to come. The following day there were the
glad welcomes of the constantly arriving native friends; and
consultations with Mr. Good, about the interests of the station.
On Saturday, the 25th, I was buying food for my expected
return journey; bought a new canoe; and tied up, for use in the
United States, a hippopotamus head, which Njivo's husband
Mbora had bought for me.
On Sunday, the 26th, the church was crowded. There were
six baptisms; among them, Agonjo. [He subsequently became
an elder.] My part of the exercises was the distribution of
the elements. Mary needing her food at her regular hours, I
was rather late in my arrival with her at the church. She sat
well during the remainder of the services. Next day, the crowd
of visitors rapidly departed.
On Tuesday, the 28th, I went around the island to the trading-
houses ; and bought a mouth-organ as a toy for Mary, and shoes
550 MY OGOWE
for myself and Njivo. Mr. Letz offered me passage on the
Duala for the following Tuesday. Though this called for a
week's delay, I preferred it to the four days' boat-trip, so trying
to Mary, in its confinement.
\ext day, some of my crew, seeing that there was to be a
delay, applied for leave to visit their homes at various points
from fifteen to forty-five miles down-river. One of them Re-
Morido being thus given permission, stole one of Mr. Good's
canoes, for the trip. To assure the return of those who went, I
declined to pay them their month's wages (though only one day)
in advance. The next day, I paid those who remained.
As 1 was to return home on the Duala, I utilized my
crew, on Friday, July I, by sending them in my newly-pur-
chased canoe, ahead as far as Laseni's, there to gather plantains
by the time the Duala should overtake them.
In compliance with the French government requisition that
no school should exist in our mission without instruction being
given in the French language, the Board made efforts to obtain,
in the United States and Canada, a Christian teacher, who, pos-
sessing a knowledge of French, was willing to devote it to the
foreign missionary cause. Not one could be found. So, as an
alternative to having our schools closed, French laymen, nominal
Christians, were sent to us. They were very unsatisfactory. We
Americans, for the sake of example to the weak native Christians,
on the Pauline principle, drank no liquor. Those Frenchmen
had their daily wine; and, having attended church in the Sun-
day morning, spent the afternoon in amusements, following their
habit of the " continental Sabbath." Also, the particular man
who was just at that time in charge of the Andende school, was
a trial to Mr. and Mrs. Good. He was so severe that the pupils
frequently rebelled. One day, while I was sitting with Mrs.
Good in the "parlor," a school-l>oy rushed in and hid himself
behind her chair. Immediately followed the teacher in pursuit,
with a rod in his hand. The boy had tied from punishment to
the sanctuary of the lady's presence. But, the irate teacher,
regardless of her, struck at the boy: the latter dodged, and the
blow fell on gentle Mrs. Good!
Messrs. Letz and Wichula were at church, on Sunday, the 3d.
and remained to dinner. But, they left immediately afterwards,
as they thought they heard the whistle of their steamer. It was
so; both the Falaba and the Duala had come. In the afternoon,
a mail was sent to us. Among other news was that of the prob-
able return of Mr. Reading to Africa. Xext day. I went around
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 551
to Lembarene, to see about boards that I expected for my pro-
posed church-building; and to the post, to have witnessed a
power of attorney, in regard to some property of Mrs. Nassau.
Three years after her death, and at the thousands of miles
distance from Utica, N. Y., and with law's delay and red-
tape!
RETURN TO TALAGUGA BY DllClla.
Appreciating the favor of transportation on the Duala, and
fearful of delaying it even one minute, I did not sleep all Mon-
day night. At 4 a. m. of Tuesday, the 5th, I was up and
dressed, and started with my boat and company, at 5.30. I was
in ample time at the -vessel ; and, our pleasant steamer journey
began. Though the dry season shallows were numerous, espe-
cially near the Goree Island (Xenge-sika) they were all success-
fully passed. Near Ngwilaka, we overtook my canoe and crew
under Agonjo, and took them in tow. Which was quite a relief
to them ; for, they had heard that the people of Isosa intended
to attack them. (The reason was, not any complaint against
me; but, Agonjo, in his trader-days at that village, had had rela-
tions with one of the women of the chief, and was charged with
not having paid for the privilege. Now, though he had become
a Christian, and was forgiven of God, he was, nevertheless, to
bear the natural consequences of his sins.) Reached Talaguga
before the 6 p. m. sunset, with glad welcomes ; and the vessel pro-
ceeded to Asange.
In the afternoon of the next day, it returned, and stopping,
hastily landed my boards and boxes. Mr. Letz was on board ;
he was anxious about some trade-charge made against him by
the spy Dunod. Busy storing away the boards, opening the
boxes, and arranging their contents.
On Thursday, the 7th, sent to Mavyarie's village, for my
thatch-trust in Zina's hands. The crew returned late, having
had difficulty with his people, who wanted to dispute the agreed-
upon price of the axe and cloth already paid to them. Then,
my crew had gone on down to Njomu, to see if they could get
some of Njega's trust. There was plenty of thatch ; but he was
away, and they could not take it without his permission.
So, on Saturday, the 9th, I went myself very early. Stopped
at Mavyarie's to notify him to be ready; on to Njomu; found
abundance of thatch, cleared off my old loan, and one hundred
pieces on the new. On the way back, had an amicable talk with
Mavyaiie. Near Talaguga, at Nyare's old ozege, found Mary
552 MY OGOWE
and her attendants playing on the sand ; took them in the canoe,
and was at the end of a successful day by 4 p. m.
On Sunday, the 10th, the trader Manoel sent word that he
could not come to services, because an attack was expected on
their village, in consequence of the shooting of a man of another
village by a hunter who in the forest mistook him for a gorilla.
My sister went itinerating as far down as Mavyane's. The
crew returned bringing with them forty of the fifty pieces of
thatch due me. Considering that I had been so irenic with him,
this action of his was plainly insulting. Those natives could
scarcely complete a bargain without an attempt to overreach.
I returned the forty pieces, next day, refusing them until I
should be given the entire fifty.
For several months, I had been gathering logs for the founda-
tion-posts, and sills, and sleepers for the floor of the proposed
chapel. Finally, on the 14th, I began a busy day, with all my
men at the site on the little island at the mouth of the brook,
boring auger holes, and mortising. Also, warned by the danger
the dwelling-house had been in by the felling of trees near it
after (rather than before) its erection, I decided to fell a very
large tree that was on the brook's lower side ; lest, some day it
should fall on the chapel. The tree-trunk was very thick, and
its wood hard. One man worked at it all day; but did not ac-
complish much. The next day, Saturday, the 16th, Agon jo
took the job, to finish it before Sunday. But, by the 5 p. m.
rest-hour, the tree still stood. The situation by this time was
dangerous, and the young men voluntarily stayed to complete
the task. My entire family came to see the sight. My sister
with Mary stood on the hill-side, by Mrs. Nassau's grave, in fine
view of the tall tree. It fell, with a tremendous crash, exactly
at sunset, and in an utterly opposite direction from what I had
expected. Its trunk lay across the site of the chapel (thus mak-
ing additional work) while the end of its top branch almost
touched the grave. However, its log made a useful bridge over
one of the two branches of the brook's mouth.
On Sunday, the 24th, services were disturbed by two Galwa
employees of the French Post coming late to meeting, bringing
with them bottles of liquor, for two of my men, their friends,
Re-Benje and Re-Mondo. The former accepted; but, I ordered
both the liquor and the visitors into their canoe and away.
The next day, Re-Benje, who. for a long time had been lazy
and troublesome, left. As usual with my deserters, he at once
went to get employment with the adjacent traders.
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 553
On the 27th, I went on the hill, to inspect my old cottage.
While there, Mary followed me with her nurse, to tell me that
one of the little boys, Ngelisani, had struck her. It was the
first unkindness I had known of her receiving, from any native.
At evening-prayers, I spoke feelingly about it to the assembled
household. And, at the usual inquiry meeting that followed,
two of the members, Mburu and Monkami, spoke of the matter
in a very sympathizing manner.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
Mr. Good had gone to England, for his health, and had left
the quarterly care of the Kangwe church, and the monthly in-
spection of the station with me. It much increased my work
and responsibility. It was a thankless task, and compelled an
absence from my own station and family, of one-fourth of each
month. In order to accomplish most in the given space of time,
I planned for the journey down of one day, and yet, to include
a number of necessary business stoppages. Arising at 3 a. m.
of Friday, the 29th, to load the boat, etc., I was off by daylight.
A stop at Njomu, to give out "trust" for bamboo; at Bitaga,
to give notice that my sister would soon come for our annual
vacation picnic; at trader Bigman's, and at Erere-volo Beach,
to give " trust " for plantains; at Ompomo-Isosa, to eat. There,
Agon jo's enemy would have assaulted him, my Winchester alone
preventing his capture. We left, in an unpleasant state of mind.
At Belambla, to inspect Aveya's good care of the place. Reached
Andende, at 9 p. m. The night was cold; I was shivering. But,
was welcomed by all. Next day, I made out the monthly ac-
counts, and took reports of station affairs (for my eventual re-
port to Mr. Good). Went with Agonjo to the Lembarene Post,
and had a satisfactory interview with the commandant, in favor
of Agonjo ; who, though he had been a sinner, had now re-
pented ; and the action of the Isosa man and woman against him
was regarded as a case of black-mail. Candidate Mbora was
employed by Mr. Good as an evangelist. As there was no need
of his presence at Andende during my week there, I arranged
that, whenever I came, he should go away to Ajumba, and spend
the Sunday in services there.
On Sunday, July 31, only twenty-three people at church.
The weather was very cold. Thermometer marked 61 ; the
lowest mark I ever saw in my forty-five years under the equator.
Monday, August 1, was a very busy trying day. I was pay-
ing Mr. Good's employees their monthly wages. (Not a pleas-
554 MY OGOWE
ant task.) / was on the lookout for deception; and they ex-
pecting injustice. But, I had no trouble with any of them;
excepting- with his chief employee, Ra-Nyiko, who himself had
employees under him ; and, I strongly suspected " graft." Mbora
returned from Ajumba. Though he had been my protege, and
Mrs. Nassau's theological pupil, and Mr. Reading and 1 had
induced Xjivo to accept him in marriage, he was treating her
unkindly, his coarseness was resented by her refinement ; she was
unhappy, and all my sympathies were with her.
BACK TO TALAGUGA.
Next day, Tuesday, the 2d, T woke with a headache. But,
after morning prayers, began to load my canoe, in which my
crew, without permission, had stowed, to a point of inconven-
ience to me, a quantity of their own dried fish. 1 endured it.
Mad I ordered their goods out, most of them would probably
have taken themselves out also. I could not begin a contest, or
accept a delay ; for, I had promised my sister to meet her at
Bitaga on a certain day. And, with all their fish, the crew would
be happy, and perhaps would pull letter. So, I accepted ; and
we proceeded ; and were at Belambla that night.
The following day, after our lunch in the forest near Isosa,
I called to the people of the village, as we passed, telling them
the commandant's message. Farther on, we stopped opposite
Nkogo, and at Erere-volo, for the plantains, for which 1 had
given " trust." With my field-glass, I could see my boat lying
at Bitaga Beach ; and, I knew that my sister was there according
to appointment. On my arrival, there was a warm welcome
from the awaiting company. Never before had my little Mary
been so demonstrative. On the 4th, we went to our camp on
the island in the lagoon ; and repeated the pleasures of the previ-
ous year, reading, resting, playing, fishing, and doing nothing.
Abundance of fish were caught in my net. Crowds of Faiiwe
came to visit us. Leaving a guard at the camp, sister and I
with Mary, spent the night in the more comfortable trading-
house. Friday was a repetition at the camp. Mary enjoyed
flinging pebbles into the water, and in watching the flocks of
pelicans. Of fish, there was a surfeit. And, again, the night
was passed in the village. And, on Saturday, the 6th, the boat
was loaded, and all started in good spirits.
While we were stopping at Njomu, Agonjo's enemy (who
happened to have removed from Isosa to Yefia), came across the
river to talk about the quarrel. ITe was rather startled at the
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 555
message I gave him from the French commandant. And, late
in the afternoon the (anticipated) celebration of Mary's third
anniversary birthday ended, and, we were comfortably at home.
On Sunday, August 7, the Duala, on its way down from the
Post, anchored, and sent ashore four small bags of rice, and a
request from Mr. Letz to buy Mrs. Nassau's organ. Such Sab-
bath businesses very much annoyed me. But, my trader-
friends traveled, regardless of days. And, as they kindly
brought my mails and supplies, I had to receive. But, that /
should sell anything on Sunday was my own matter and under
my control. I never did it. Nor would I have sold that organ
under any consideration. It was a sacred souvenir for Mary
Foster's daughter, who was that day three years old. [Years
afterward it passed safely into the hands of that daughter.]
On Tuesday, the 16th, I began to set the foundation-posts of
the chapel. I felt quite elated with success. And, still more
so, as, in the evening, there arrived from their vacation, in two
canoes, Abumba, Awora, and their wives, and two new men,
and a lad. There were happy rejoicings at the arrivals.
The French gunboat SapJiir, came from the Post, and sent
a boat ashore, with word for me to go aboard. I hastily went
off in my canoe, with a crew of four ; on reaching Yena, the peo-
ple of the village fled to the forest. We had to wait a long
while for Agonjo's enemies, Akumu-lekwe and Akatyani, to be
summoned from the forest. They came ; and the captain very
shortly settled the affair. The Saphir went on its way, unfor-
tunately, in the low water, going on to a snag. And, I returned
in my canoe, stopping at Mavyane's, and was given all the
thatch due me. (About which, the women had made difficulty,
when I had sent for it, a few days before.) I was pleased to
meet there, the man, Igwera, who had so politely entertained
Mrs. Nassau, on her journey (in December, 1883, and Febru-
ary, 1884) when he was living near the Ngunye.
On Sunday, the 21st, a number of employees of the govern-
ment at the services; my deserter Re-Benje with them. At
Sabbath school there was a canoe-load of Fanwe from Sanjala.
I had a good Bible class. And, my little Mary was well and
hearty and happy.
Though I made occasional short journeys, under necessity of
business, I did not yet feel that I was free to leave my child,
and go on itinerations, on which she could not accompany me.
Mamba. had apparently done well that work for me, before he
556 MY OGOWE
left me (under the temptation of liquor and trade). So, as
Abumba and Awora had returned, I occasionally sent them, on
that work. (They subsequently were employed as evangelists
in larger fields.)
INSPECTION JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
The month had come around again, for my inspection of
Kangwe station. I was off by 5 a. m. of Saturday, the 27th.
One of the necessary stops was at Bitaga, to inform the trader
there, Njambi (one of my former employees), that my sister
would meet me there on my return, a week later, for another
outing for Mary. At Erere-volo, where trader Njalele offered
me some of the delicious meat of a manatee (dugong) that had
just then been caught by the people of that village. At Belambla,
where Ompwenge was in charge, in place of Aveya. Was wel-
comed, on my arrival at Andende at night ; and sat up late, read-
ing a mail which had come the day before, by the Falaba. On
Sunday, the 28th, there were sixty people at church ; a good
Bible class in the afternoon; and, in the evening, I enjoyed sing-
ing with my friend Njivo. Captain Birchman and Mr. Smith
were visiting Miss Harding, on the Hill. I sat up late, past
midnight, reading general assembly reports from Omaha,
United States, sent by Mr. Reading, who had been attending
there, as elder of Corisco presbytery.
I was on my feet, all day of Monday, paying wages, buying
supplies ; and receiving reports from Mr. Good's evangelists.
One of them, Ra-Xyiko was so insubordinate, that I suspended
him. Those employees were Mr. Good's appointees; but, as I
was (even temporarily) in charge, they were, just then, under
my orders. Two others, Bigman (a former employee of Mr.
Reading and of myself) and Jakob, made commendable inquiries
as to how to conduct their inquiry classes.
The next day, 1 was very busy preparing for my return
journey. My crew, whom I had allowed to visit their homes,
were returned in time. One of my ankles had been abscessed
for some time. At night, good Njivo skillfully opened it, and
let out some pus.
RETURN TO TALAGUGA.
Remembering the inconveniences of the journey of the month
before, 1 had announced in advance that I would allow nothing
but my own goods in the canoe. On our way, on Wednesday,
the 31st, we passed the Gambia aground. So low was the river,
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 557
in that dry season, that even our canoe several times grounded.
But, we were at Belambla, by 8 p. m. Just twelve hours in
coming eighteen miles ; so slow had been our course in the tortu-
ous channels.
The next day, September 1, we were at Erere-volo by 5 p. m. ;
took from Njalele thirty bunches of plantains, a fowl, manatee
meat, and some eggs. The plantains made the canoe danger-
ously overladen ; so that pulling through the winding channels
had to be slow, making our arrival at Bitaga as late as 7 p. m.
My sister was just then holding evening-prayers. I was given
a glad welcome by my little Mary. Then, next day was spent
in vacation, at our camp in the lagoon. The following day,
Saturday, all three crafts started homeward, stopping at Njomu
for a hearty lunch. Later, at a sand-bank, for Mary to play
awhile; the restrictions of the boat, comfortable as it was, were
trying to her energies.
The rush and responsibilities of the preceding eight days had
their reaction. Rising with a headache, I had to sit while con-
ducting Sunday morning services of the 4th. And, another
necessary rest made Sabbath school late. For some time, our
difficulties with the French government, about the compulsory
use of the French language in our schools, had led to negotia-
tions with the Paris Evangelical Society, with reference to their
taking the Ogowe portion of the mission off of our hands. Mr.
Good had been very desirous of this ; for. he and Baraka at
Libreville were especially affected. But, I did not wish to give
up my Ogowe. Though annoyed by Roman Catholic obstruc-
tions, Talaguga was not touched on the school question. I had
no school at all ; and, my sister's class consisted of only four
pupils. (Less than the " school.") At the evening monthly
concert. I informed the household, that the probability was that
we would continue to hold the Ogowe; and that, for some time,
at least, there would be no transfer to the Paris society. My
people (who knew of "French" only as government officials)
expressed themselves in a gratifying manner.
On Monday, the 5th, I resumed my chapel-building. Agonjo's
little boy made a pleasant playmate for Mary. I was very par-
ticular about her associates. The village children were none of
them fit, either in dress or civilization. When they came, they
were treated kindly; but, she and they were only curiosities to
each other. I paid also Ingumu's wife for occasional aid to
the unworthy Aziza, whom, at her earnest pleading (and in my
558 MY OGOWE
otherwise helplessness) I had allowed to return. A large canoe,
on its way to Asange, stopped with a letter from a man down-
river, who wished to marry Aziza, asking her to come to him
in that canoe on its return. She declined ; wisely taking the
position that he should come to her. I still was doing my
village itineration vicariously, by sending Abumba and Agonjo
on a tour of exhortation. By Thursday, the 15th, work on the
chapel progressed, so that the frames of the walls were put in
place.
As Mr. Letz had not been able to put in working-order all
the keys of Mrs. Nassau's organ, and the longer retention of the
instrument in the African climate would still further deteriorate
it, I boxed it. on the 1 6th, to have it ready to lie sent to the
United States, there to be repaired. [This was subsequently
done, at the Mason & Hamlin repair-shop in New York.] In
the evening, I was rejoiced by Paul Agonjo requesting enroll-
ment in my sister's class, for instruction in the work of an evan-
gelist.
DOWN TO KANGWK.
1 had barely rested from my previous month's trip to Kangwe,
when it became necessary to prepare for the quarterly commu-
nion journey. My sister was not well, and did not feel able
to remain in charge during my absence. So. she was going
with me. though my Nelly-Howard was out of repair, and her
smaller Evangeline, in which I was taking the organ, would 1>e
crowded. So, on Tuesday, the 20th. we started, with boat and
canoe, crews of fifteen, and my sister, myself, and Mary and
her new nurse Irandi (the fifth of the eight incompetents).
There was a dry season drizzle, premonitory of the coming rains.
With stops, we were at Belambla shortly after sundown.
Neither Ompwenge nor his assistant were at their post; only
two Bakele. 1 had a heavy job of lifting the organ-lx^x out
of the boat, to house it over-night against rain.
The next day. Wednesday, the 21st. we reached Andende in
the middle of the afternoon. Discharging my passengers and
goods, I went on at once with the organ around to Lembarene.
to leave it at the house of \\. & C. ready for shipment to Libre-
ville and thence to Liverpool and the United States. When I
returned at dusk, the premises were already beginning to be
crowded with the evangelists, Yongwe. Okendo, Ogula. and their
companies of inquirers, and other church-mem1>ers, gathering
for "the feast." Mary had already made herself at home with
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 559
my friend Njivo's little son Onyenge and daughter Lena
(Abidi).
During all those days, Thursday, the 22d, to Saturday, the
25th, I had no time to read the newspapers that were awaiting
me, or to write letters for the mail. There were daily church-ses-
sion meetings from 9 a. m. until 1 1 a. m. : and from 2 p. m. until
3 p. m. Then preaching services from 3.30 p. m. until 4.30 p. m.
And, session again, from 7 p. m. until 11 p. m. During the in-
tervals, I was occupied with buying the abundance of food
brought for sale (besides what the crowd had for their own
feeding), and the reception and recording of gifts of vegetables,
eggs, etc.. for monthly concert (before the days of the intro-
duction of foreign coin). One of the new members, Osamu-
wa-mani, had with him his little child whom he had named
Mary. She was very sick. Leaving her. he had gone away,
to bring his wife, and returned on evening of the 23d.
The next day. near noon, the child died. Such heart-rending
wailing! I thought much; had it been my own little Mary!
She was too young to understand : but, nevertheless, was im-
pressed by the prevalent sadness. My sister made herself very
helpful, by her sympathy with the parents, and by presiding over
the funeral arrangements. The burial was that same evening.
In the tropics, interment follows death, within twenty-four
hours.
There was a large crowd at church on Sunday ; and all the
program was carefully made and followed, in a solemn and
orderly manner, without confusion. There were ten baptisms.
During Monday, the 26th, to Wednesday, the 28th, I was under
great physical and mental strain. The crowd were leaving for
their homes. I was wanted by a waiting line, each of whom
wished to be first, with some request for medicine or informa-
tion, or for inquiry or advice. I was busy from early in the
morning of Monday. All day. I was paying wages of the
"Bible-readers"' (evangelists), Bigman, Elder Yongwe, Aveya,
and their companies, and some of my own people. It is easy
to pay wages, when they are counted in coin. But, those were
the days when we paid in goods. So much time was taken by
the native in deciding what kind of goods he should take,
whether calico-cloth, or tools, or a dozen other things.
On Tuesday, the crowd had largely dispersed. It took a long
time to satisfy Elder Yongwe. Xot that he disputed my ac-
count: but. he was slow in his selections. I paid the incom-
petent Irandi, and dismissed her.
560 MY OGOWE
On Wednesday, payments were complete, and the crowd were
all gone. Then, I was to attend to my own needs. Went in
the boat to the trading-houses, taking with me my child, to whom
I had been able to give little attention during the previous week.
She was pleased, in seeing so many civilized houses, the two
German, the English H. & C, the French Post, and the Roman
Catholic mission. (Which had followed me, and had located
on the high blurt" at the upper end of the island, in the rear of
the Eyenano villages.) She was attracted by leopard and mon-
key skins at the English house ; where also she was presented
with a little drinking-cup. And, at Mr. Letz's, she was given
a mouth-organ. The white gentlemen were pleased with the
rare sight of a white child in their homes. The return up-river
could not be made on Thursday, as my sister was not well.
BACK TO TALAGUGA.
As she was better on Friday, the 30th, the start was made.
I had obtained several new employees ; they worked better than
any previous crew. At a very picturesque spot in the forest,
we lunched, my sister reclining in the boat, and Alary glad to
get a chance to romp ashore. At night, rather than ask hospi-
tality at the Island " factory" (under its then conditions) we
slept at Byam's Fanwe village.
The next day, our nooning was in the forest, at an exceed-
ingly pretty spot beyond the " Goree " islands. My sister was
better, and was carried ashore in a hammock, in which she re-
clined under the shade of the trees, and without fear of rain.
We were at Belambla early in the afternoon, arriving not much
later than Ompwenge, who had started from Kangwe on Thurs-
day.
The rest on Sunday, October 2, was a relief to my sister, who
still was feverish. We saw the Duala pass up. My principle
against Sunday-travel would have had a justifiable exception, if
I could have placed her on it. But, it was in vain to make any
sign to the vessel, as we watched it from the boat-landing.
While there. Mary was thrilled to see a hippopotamus swim by.
The next day, starting early, and, for my sister's sake, avoid-
ing stops at villages, we ate, after a long run. in a forest camp
below Sakuma. But. people came from the village into the
forest to satisfy their curiosity in gazing at the white lady and
child. We enjoyed eating a bread-fruit, which I had brought
fnmi Belambla, from a tree of my own planting. The rest, at
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 561
night was at Erere-volo, in Njalele's house. Unfortunately, he
was drunk; for which he seemed ashamed.
On Tuesday, the 4th, my sister was worse, and in much pain.
We hasted; but, had to stop at Njomu Beach to eat; where we
were annoyed by the people staring at our eating. Then, we
pulled rapidly on to our home by 4 p. m. I had mislaid the
front-door key ; and, in my anxiety to get my sister to her bed, I
did not take time to search. So, I climbed into the house
through a broken window-pane, to open the door and windows.
(It was an evil example, that was followed by thieves, on the
occasion of my subsequent absence at Kangwe. ) Everything
was safely landed. I counted twenty-three natives in my house-
hold.
As my sister was better on Thursday, the 6th, I ventured to
leave her; and, with two canoes and twelve men, went to Njomu
for bamboo-rafters for the chapel roof. We went into the
swamp at the rear of the village, first leaving there two to teach
and exhort, while I superintended work in the forest. After a
successful day; and a night's rest, we ten went again, next day,
to the forest, carried the ninety fronds to the canoes, ate our
lunch, and at noon started to return. In the more lightly-laden
canoe I was at home by 4 p. m., and my little girl at the landing
to welcome me ; and, my sister was better, and able to move
about the house.
On Saturday, the 8th, the Ditala brought a letter from
Ompwenge, telling of the accidental burning of the Belambla
kitchen. Poor Belambla! By Thursday, the 13th, I was push-
ing the work on the chapel roof. Three Fanwe came to ask
employment ; and a Fanwe lad came to live at the house to learn
to read. This pleased me much. Mary's cat " Falaba " had
three kittens, which added greatly to her amusement.
I had continued pressing the chapel work under my personal
direction; and the roof was entirely completed in the afternoon
of Saturday, the 15th. It was a great relief to me; for, the
rains were falling heavily, every night. That night, the clouds
and thunder were alarming. There were other things which
gratified me; Fanwe were willing to work for me; and, they
brought me food in exchange for dried fish ; the little girl Bitaga,
who had run away, more than a year before, returned ; and two
boys also came to live and be taught. The entire working force
busy at the chapel, in squads of two or three, at a variety of
562 MY OGOWE
jobs; some, tying bamboo on to the walls, squaring logs for
sleepers, raking up rubbish, etc.
We had intended making an excursion to the Asange villages.
But, Mary was not well. So, I went alone, to inquire at the
trading-houses, for condensed milk. On the way, stopped to see
the steam saw-mill which De Brazza had erected on the upper
end of Njoli Island. How I longed for the industrial school,
for which I had l>een pleading for almost twenty years! At
the Post, were a company of Frenchmen with their crews of
one hundred and fifty men, just arrived from the Interior.
On Friday, the 21st, the Gambia came, with a mail, and my
American order of soap, rice, tools, etc., etc. And, on Monday,
the 24th, the Duala, which had passed up on Sunday, stopped
to buy tools. I felt a great satisfaction in contributing to the
industries of the Ogowe. The presence of the four Fanwe chil-
dren, permanently in my household, was an incentive to their
people to sell me food. But, at once, tribal jealousies were
aroused. For years, my household had consisted almost solely
of Gal was. Ngelisani began to oppress the Fanwe boys, by
taking away their mosquito-net at night. I soon stopped that.
At the chapel, the men worked well, according to their own
standard. But, I had, in my long experience, adopted some
esthetic styles in bamboo. What was fit for a hut. I did not
think fit for a chapel ; and, I was exact and strict in my require-
ments about straight lines. (My protege. Rev. Mr. Itongolo,
years later, in his erection of the church at Ubenji, in the
Batanga region, imitated me.) On Saturday, the 22d, two of
the young men Ndongo and Anome-go-nkala (men-in-town)
fell from the scaffolding, and were unable to work for several
days. One of them died at his home, several months later (I
am not sure, due entirely to his fall).
TO KANGWE.
In filling my trying task of monthly inspection, I had another
journey to Kangwe, on Friday, the 28th. I took advantage of
the Gambia, and joined it with my canoe and crew. In such a
rainy season. T would not take either my sister or Mary; and.
when unaccompanied by them, I preferred a canoe to the Nclly-
Howard. The latter, indeed, gave protection from rain ; but the
former was more rapid. The Gambia stopped for the night at
Mr. Jones', a new trader, near Xgwilaka. He gave a doleful
account of his troubles with the natives. The Akclc was there
also, on her way up-river. In the morning. I sent by it a little
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 563
letter to Mary. The Gambia resumed her journey; but, she
soon broke one of her valves, and was helpless. So, I left her,
in my canoe, giving passage to the trader, Mr. Mooney. Ate
at Belambla : deposited Mr. Mooney at his Aguma house, Lemba-
rene : and was at Andende by 6 p.m. sunset. According to
arrangement, candidate Mbora was away at Ajumba; and my
friend Njivo, his wife, was visiting in Lake Onanga. I was
relieved, at hearing that Mr. and Mrs. Good were soon expected
to return. Andende seemed very quiet and lonely, with no
voices of children.
On Monday, the 31st. I paid Mr. Good's employees their
monthly wages. Had trouble with one of them, " Abraham,"
whom I had refused to accept for baptism at the previous com-
munion. Presbytery had a rule that ability to read should be
required as a condition of baptism except, ( 1 ) when the candi-
date was too old to learn. (What was "too old," twenty or
forty?) (2) Or, having tried, had proved unable to learn.
("Trying," for how long; six months or two years?) (3) Or,
was too far from opportunity of instruction. (What was " too
far"; two miles or ten?) Mr. Good interpreted all these ex-
ceptions much more leniently than I. The result was that double
the number of candidates passed his examination, who could
not have passed mine. Naturally, they praised him. But, the
church-records later showed that persons baptized in their ac-
cepted inability to read God's Word were not likely to grow in
their Christian life.
RETURN.
Next day, Tuesday. November 1, I went on my own errands
to Lembarene. And, then, hurried back to Andende ; and hastily
got my canoe ready. But, there was the usual trouble, of the
crew crowding, not simply their necessary baggage, but orTensive-
odored dried-fish, etc., which they intended (not to eat but) to sell
for gain. When I ordered these out, one of the crew, Ognla (a
Shekyiani) rebelled and deserted. I went on, with the remaining
five paddles. But, it was slow disheartening work. Stopping for
the night at an Akele village, there were only five people there.
Next day, reached Belambla in a heavy rain. Ompwenge
was very helpful in drying our wet goods. And, I had fruit,
of my own planting. Avocado pears and mangoes.
The following day. Wednesday, the 3d, when I reached old
Osamu-'kita. T was overtaken by the Duala, T gladly ran along-
side, knowing that my German trader friends usually would be
564 MY OGOWE
willing to give me a tow. To my surprise, objection was made,
and I was warned off by a French officer. I felt very much
humiliated. (I subsequently learned that the vessel had been
chartered by the French, and, that, while they were willing to
take myself as a passenger, they were unwilling to tow the canoe
and crew.) I continued my journey with the canoe.
At the Akele village where I stopped to eat, the staring of the
people was exceedingly offensive. In my early days in Africa,
being stared at while I ate, amused me. But, after almost thirty
years, it had become trying, especially from the Fanwe and
Bakele ; Benga, Kombe, and Mpongwe were more polite. At
Xkogo, I could get no plantains ; the gardens had been devas-
tated by elephants. At Njalele's, I recovered some utensils,
that had been forgotten on our last visit there. And, after dark,
pulled on to Njambi's at Bitaga Lagoon. A woman, of the
Biman clan welcomed us. But, there was little opportunity for
religious services. A mourning for the dead was going on in
the village.
Xext day was very warm, and the crew wished to stop and
bathe. But, I feared rain, and had to refuse. Reached Tala-
guga in a heavy rain. The Duala had left a mail ; its best letter
was from the Board telling of the expected coming of a new mis-
sionary, a Mr. Findley (or Finlay). My sister and I were be-
ginning to feel the strain of years and the isolation of frontier-
work, and looked with hope that the recruit would be our relief.
(But. he never joined the mission.) Beginning with Sunday,
the 6th, and then almost every day of the following week, there
was some " palaver " with my employees. They seemed to be
infused with a spirit of neglect and disobedience.
By the 12th, much of the carpenter work on the chapel-porch
was done. The open space under the house became available
for storing boats and canoes.
The Gambia came on Wednesday, the 16th, with a letter from
Mr. CJood announcing that he had arrived at Kangwe on the 7th.
When the vessel returned from Asange. it stopped, and Mr.
Moonev came ashore to buy some of my popular American tools.
In the afternoon, l)c Brazza cnme down in a canoe. lie neared
my landing, and left his compliments as he passed. (T have
ever had faith in the sincerity of his friendship.) I investigated
my people's huts ; and, at night, lectured them on the unclean
conditions which they allowed. It was a great satisfaction, that
for a month past, iguma and plantains had been brought in
quantity so sufficient that I had not needed to give rations of
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 565
either rice or farinya. Thus removing a chief ground of com-
plaint among my employees.
On Sunday, the 20th, just as I was commencing services, the
Elobi passed up and whistled. I did not know whether it was
a call or only a salutation. In either case, I took no notice.
For, much as I valued the aid of the frequently passing vessels,
in bringing me mail and goods (which sometimes I was com-
pelled to receive on Sunday, when the vessels, against my wish,
landed them) I consistently stood by my principle of doing no
secular work on the Sabbath.
Next day, very early in the morning, I was awakened by Mary
calling to me. She was coughing, as if in croup. I was
alarmed, and watched her carefully during the day; for, the en-
tire day was cold and rainy.
Aziza was not well for two days. Imperfect as she was, I
missed her aid; for, I had to attend entirely to Mary, particu-
larly as she was troubled with many small boils on her face.
By Saturday, the 26th, work at the chapel was going on well
without me, under care of the Kombe carpenter Ingumu. So,
I stayed in my study, working on my final revision of the Benga
grammar.
On Sunday, the 27th, the Akele passed up. When it came
down next morning, it left for me a mail and a box of clothing
and other presents for Mary; but there was no word or mark
by which I could know from whom they had come. My poor
child's boils so increased, that her face was almost covered with
poultices. She wanted to be sung to, for her pains. And, had
so many questions to ask, that I had to check myself from an
attempt to check her.
On Thursday, December 1, while paying the month's wages,
the little girl Bilaga actually asked pay for her small service in
playing with and amusing Mary ! The next day, she ran away,
because I had required her to take the chigoes herself out of her
own feet. I was pushing work at all points, so as to leave the
house and grounds in order, when, at the month's end, I should
start on the annual journey to the meetings at Libreville.
On Sunday, the 4th, Bilaga was brought back; but, she re-
mained unwillingly. And, on the 7th, she ran away again. I
regretted that. And, I was troubled by a variety of affairs : I
was not well myself; and was pained at Mary's boils (though she
bore them well) ; I suspected that Ingumu had been drinking; how
should I arrange for the sewing, etc., of Mary's little garments,
(the only work my sister had done for her since the loss of
566 MY OGOWE
Handi, and which she was no longer able to attend to). Heard
that Mamba and Akendenge were on their way to Talaguga ; but,
I did not suppose that they were coming with any intention of
remaining. They arrived ; and were, as always, polite and agree-
able; but, left, the next day. I grieved for Mamba. I never
had a better employee; and, but for his weakness as to liquor,
he might have been an elder, and a power in the church.
On Wednesday, the 14th, Mr. Mooney sent, asking for the
loan of my copy of Stanley's " Kongo Free-State." Next day,
I heard that little Bilaga had been sold into marriage!
I was hurrying the completion of the chapel-seats. And, I
put up an arbor, by the gully at the east end of the house, for
a granadilla vine, a job I had been wishing to do. for a whole
year; but, had been delayed by so many more imperative needs.
1 enjoyed much the granadilla fruit. A large number of Fafiwe,
on a journey, had stopped over Saturday night ; and were
present at Sunday services of the 18th.
By the afternoon of the 21st, all the various jobs I had laid
out for Ingumu and the other workmen, were successfully com-
pleted. And, all arrangements were made for the long journey
that was to begin next day.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
Leaving several men in charge, we were all ready for the
start by 9 a, m. of Thursday, December 22. The Nclly-Hoivard
and passengers, and crew of five; Ingumu, leaving, in a canoe
and small crew ; and Abumba suddenly appearing in a small
canoe, and demanding a crew. He had annoyed me by leaving
the question of his going' undecided, to the last. I gave him one
man. It was an unpleasant ending of a service of many years,
that should have been more honorable. With the usual stops,
we were, by sundown, for the night at Belambla. Ompwenge
had already gone to Kangwe ; but, had left written direction, in
a notice posted on the door, how to enter. (Quite safe, in a
country where few could write or read!) There were abun-
dance of mangoes on the trees. At night, Mary had the usual
Belambla sad time with mosquitoes.
Xext day, we were at Andende house early in the afternoon ;
and, welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. Good and little Albert. Can-
didate Mlx)ra's wife Njivo and family were still absent. I
missed her and them for aid with Mary.
On Saturday, the 24th, went to the trading-houses, to call on
the gentlemen there: to pay my year's bills; and to inquire about
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 567
possible steamer passage to Libreville. It being the close of the
fiscal year, two of the general agents, from Libreville, were on
a visit of inspection ; Mr. Allam, of the English house of H. &
C, and Mr. Lubcke of the German Woermann. I preached
for Mr. Good at the preparatory service of Saturday, the 24th.
But, on Sunday, I had a bilious attack, and could not attend
communion ; but, remained with Alary, who also was not well.
The day had little of the traditional Christmas appearance.
On Monday, the 26th, went around to Lembarene, with Mr.
Good, to engage passage on the German Elobi. Then, I hurried
back to Andende, and sent Agonjo and Okendo to the Akelc,
to ask their passage to Talaguga. They had come down, only
to attend communion ; and, they were to go back, to be in charge
of the station during my absence. Sent to Lembarene some of
our baggage for the Gaboon journey. Paid my people their
month's wage; and, most of them at once dispersed to their
homes. Abumba again disappointed me. I thought that he had
come only to attend communion. But, he had deceived me; he
declined to return to Talaguga. And, the day closed unpleas-
antly.
I had reported to Air. Good my superintending of his station
during his absence. It had been done at his request, rather than
that he should close the station entirely. It had been hard, re-
sponsible work ; and, I thought that I had been comparatively
successful. But, inevitably, there would be some regrets ; and,
knowing our antipodal points of view, I said pleasantly to him,
in a deprecatory way, " Mr. Good, I hope that you do not find
the station affairs in a very bad state ? " " No worse than I
expected ! " he curtly replied. It was one of the few occasions
on which he was unkind to me. For, with all our differences of
view, I never had a quarrel or altercation with him. I felt hurt.
My hard journeys to and from Kangwe, involving so much self-
sacrifice in regard to my child, seemed to have become harder.
I said nothing. I quietly resolved never again to fill that
vacancy, even if Kangwe station should lie closed.
On Tuesday, sent a canoe with more baggage for the Elobi.
To my surprise, Agonjo returned, saying that the engineer of
the Akelc refused to give him passage. I thought that I saw
there the hand of Mr. Lubcke. He did not like me, since an
altercation he had had with me at Libreville, when he was drunk.
(The Germans were becoming less generous than the English.)
I at once sent Agonjo to Air. Smith of the house of H. & C,
who, I was sure would give him passage on the Gambia.
568 MY OGOWE
JOURNEY TO GABOON ON THE Elobi.
By noon of the 27th, all our company, Mr. and Mrs. Good
and Albert, and my sister, and Mary and myself, started for
the Elobi, in boat and canoe, at the German house, Mr. Lubcke
was in an ill-humor; for. Mr. Letz, his subordinate, was having
a difficulty with the French Post, about some Kru-men passen-
gers. (And, that ill-humor directed itself toward me, during
the voyage.) We anchored, for the night, near Ashuka. The
accommodations were narrow. Mary had to sleep with her
aunt in a little cabin. 1 was given no quarters, and slept on the
upper deck, in the open. Mary waking during the night, and
missing me (for, her crib had always been in reach of my hand)
cried for me, and would not be comforted, until I came down
and soothed her.
About noon, the next day, we reached Angala, where the
Duala was lying. The expectation had been that we would all
be transferred to that vessel, and proceed to Libreville on it.
But, Mr. Lubcke changed his plans, and ordered the Elobi to
go on with him and us. Then, we lay at Angala until 1 1 p. M.,
in order that when we should reach the river's mouth, we would
find the tide at its best stage for immediately putting out to sea.
Mary was much amused during the afternoon, by the antics of
a chimpanzee that was put on board at Angala.
Emerged at the mouth, before 2 a. m. of the 29th, and put out
to sea. I was not seasick; Mary was, slightly. We anchored
in the Gaboon harbor, at noon. I never have known why my
sister, myself, and Mary, had to wait for a permit to land. (It
never was required before or since.) Mr. and Airs. Good and
their child were taken at once ashore by Mr. Lubcke in the cap-
tain's boat. When it returned, we landed. Arrived at Baraka,
we were welcomed by Mrs. Ogden and other missionaries. I
found awaiting me a mail, which informed me that the box of
gifts for Mary which reached Talaguga on November 28, was
from the Hightstown, X. J., Mission Band.
In the afternoon of 'Friday, the 30th, arrived the Mary-Nas-
sau, from Benita, bringing Airs. Reutlinger. And, on Saturday,
came Rev. Mr. Marling from his Angom station, up the Gaboon
River.
On Sunday. January 1, 1888, though I was not well, I
preached in the morning for Mr. Gault. He was in charge of
Baraka, having l>een transferred from Benita, to take the place
of Rev. G. C. Campbell, who had returned to the United States.
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 569
But, I was detained from the afternoon communion, by Mary's
long nap. I would never interrupt her sleep. She wished me
near her; for, she was still troubled with boils on different parts
of her body; and, she was shy of strangers.
Then, after Monday, the 2d, there was a whole month made
busy with varied occupations : Attending meetings of mission
in the mornings, and of presbytery in the afternoons; a visit to
the Plateau, to make an official call on the lieutenant-governor,
and to consult the doctor about my child; efforts to induce
Joaque to take a photo of her ; Elder Etiyani went to the French
hospital to have a tumor extirpated behind his ear near the base
of the brain, and fainted, from the loss of blood; closed our
meetings on the 9th and 10th ; and, the members began to scat-,
ter. I took an eight-mile walk with Mr. Good, to the place
Sibange, on an affluent of the Munda River, where Woermann
had an extensive coffee plantation of 40,000 trees. Mary did
not wish me to leave her, and consented to my going only on
my promise that I would return before sunset. I told her to
watch the sun. There would have been no difficulty about the
return, had we come back the same route. But, Mr. Good said
that he knew another. As I knew neither, I had to follow him.
He missed the path ; and, finally we emerged at the Plateau, two
miles distant from Baraka. I was fearfully tired. But, the
sun was sinking; the promise to my child must be fulfilled; for,
father's " Yes " was never doubted. I was staggering. I do
not know how I accomplished those two miles. But, Mary was
awaiting me on the Baraka path ; and, I reached her just before
the sun sank under the horizon of the sea. And, I had a chill
in the evening. At the trading-houses, getting supplies, among
the rest, 1200 pounds of dried fish, with which to stop food-
complaints.
On Sunday, the 22d, I preached in the morning; but, all the
afternoon, sat with my sick child on my lap. Next day, Mr.
Good and his family returned to his Kangwe, on the Falaba. I
remained with my sister, who needed the continued rest at the
seaside ; and, for my Alary still under the doctor's treatment.
On Sunday, the 29th, Rev. F. S. Myongo preached in Benga,
Air. Gault in English; and, in the evening, I, in Mpongwe. On
Monday, Aziza was sick, and could not help me. Took Mary
to good old Mrs. Sneed's, to play with the kittens; and, in the
evening, she was well enough to sit up at prayers. The ocean-
steamer Africa, from Liverpool, arrived, having on board, my
friend Air. Reading, who had again joined the mission. The
570 MY OGOWE
Falaba came from the Ogowe, bringing Njivo and her two chil-
dren. I was glad for their arrival ; they were company for
Mary. In the boat to the Plateau on February 6, with sister,
Mrs. Gault, and Mary and Aziza; and Njivo and her daughter
following along the beach. The Mary-Nassau brought Rev. Mr.
Marling from his Gaboon River station, Angom, for a called
presbytery meeting on the nth; at which Mr. Reading, and Can-
didate Iguwi were licensed to preach. Meetings of mission and
presbytery were continued on the 13th. Took Mary in the boat
to the plateau, to have her vaccinated.
RETURN TO THE OGOWE BY Falaba.
On Friday, February 17, gathered together the last things, for
the return in the Falaba, having with me new assistants, a
Fan we young man Nkama. and a Mpongwe young woman
Lucy. The steamer started late in the afternoon. The captain
kindly gave up his room for my sister and Mary to sleep in.
But, the child, unaccustomed to sleeping with her aunt, it was
necessary for me to be near her, by sleeping on the deck at her
door.
The next morning, we entered the Ogowe ; and, by night
anchored near Kamaranga. And, the following night, anchored
near Xdogo. As we passed Igenja in afternoon of Monday,
the 20th, we took on board three of my people; and anchored at
Oranga, where Etendi (restored to my service) and three others
were taken. We were finally at Lembarene by middle of after-
noon of the 2 1 st. The steamer's whistles were always distinctly
heard at Andende ; and, the custom was for the mission-boat to
be promptly sent around. But, Mr. Good failed to do so. And,
after we had waited two hours, the captain kindly gave us his
boat: and we and my people and all their and our luggage were
at Andende by 7 o'clock at night.
The next day. Wednesday, the 22d, I started my seven crew
in the canoe on their way to Talaguga. And, in the afternoon,
1 went with Mr. Good and his mason, to see the site he had
chosen for his proposed new house on the Hill. Though
Andende house had been built by Mr. Reading as a protest
against the so-called " hill-fever " (of which he had read in some
Ixxtk) and. for convenience of a market at the water-side, in
Mr. Good's mind (and I endorsed him) the evil of the proximity
of the mosquito-infested low grounds of Andende Creek out-
weighed the labor of hill-climbing (particularly since he had
made the easier circuitous path). His site was a hundred yards
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 571
to the rear of my old house, and on the very apex of the Hill.
On the 23d, Mr. Good asked me to accompany him in a formal
call on Miss Harding on the Hill, relative to some difficulties
between him and her, as to station control. Was surprised to
find that two of the men I had left in charge of Talaguga had
come down for food. Took my goods to Mr. Letz at Lemba-
rene, to be ready for the first steamer chance up-river. And,
in the evening came word from Mr. Wichula, that the Akelc
would take us on the following day. That night, I was busy
packing and arranging, for the morning.
TO TALAGUGA ON THE Akelc.
On Friday, the 24th, was awake before 4 a. m. ; loaded up,
and was off shortly after 5 a. m. And, at Mr. Letz's before 6
a. m. Transferred my belongings from the boats to the vessel,
and started for our home by 7.30 a. m., my boat being towed.
A French traveler, Mons. Froment, was on board. My man
Monkami steered the boat so unskillfully, that, on reaching
Bitaga, I entered it, and took the rudder-lines myself. Finally,
reached Talaguga after dark. Welcomed by the four in charge ;
and discharged everything that night. I was glad to get to my
own bed ; and grateful to be told that all was right at the station,
after my two months' absence.
On Sunday, the 26th, for the first time, worshiped in the re-
cently-constructed chapel. The trader Manoel and his people,
and a boat-load of natives from the Post, were present.
I had brought the Fanwe young man. Nkama, professedly a
Christian, from Mr. Marling's station, in the hope that he might
influence the Talaguga Fanwe, none of whom, after my six
years with them, had made any Christian profession. The
guavas I had planted (of the ''strawberry" variety) were in
abundant fruitage ; Mary was extravagantly fond of them. I
sent a number of plants to the Post. Mons. Kerraoul, on his
way to Lembarene. stopped to leave a letter for me from Mons.
Froment. I had found my Mpongwe so available, that I had
somewhat neglected the study of Fanwe. especially since Air.
Good had said to me. shortly after his first coming to the Ogowe,
"Dr. Nassau, you have the Benga and the Mpongwe; leave
Fanwe for me! " But. as the tribe was now coming more reg-
ularlv to Sunday services. I began to use Nkama as an aid, he
being able to communicate with me both in English and
Mpongwe. besides his own tongue, his teacher. Air. Marling,
5/2 MY OGOWE
being the best Faiiwe linguist in the mission. Nkama seemed
to be zealous; for, he asked permission to address the visitors
on religion.
On Thursday, March i, Chief Njega (Nze) and his people
came with a present of plantains; and, I made a return gift.
But, he was so greedy in asking for more, that, according to my
rule, I took back mine, and restored his. This was my invari-
able lesson. But, it was a difficult one. The majority could
not learn it.
Nkama voluntarily preached to and prayed with the company.
At monthly concert, of Sunday, the 4th, in the evening, I told
the people of their being so different from heathen of other coun-
tries, in that they were unwilling to do anything for God, with-
out pay. There was I, even before there was a church-organi-
zation, or a single Christian Fariwe, presenting the duty of native
self-help! (A duty which I never failed to press, wherever I
lived, during the remainder of my life in Africa.)
Mr. Wichula, of the German house of Stein & Co. (a rival of
YYoermann) came in the Akcle on the 7th, to settle accounts with
me. He was selling out to Mr. Letz (Wdermann's representa-
tive) and was closing his trading-houses. I had, for my own
recreation, written a history of Corisco presbytery. I wrote to
my brother-in-law, Rev. Dr. Gosman, asking his advice as to its
publication. [It was subsequently published, in pamphlet form,
under the generosity of Mr. J. H. Pratt, of Albany. And, it is
included in the chapters of my " Corisco Days."]
The young woman, Aziza, was kindly intentioned, but, she
was heedlessly neglectful. As she and I were starting to the
prayer-room, on evening of the 8th. she allowed Mary to fall.
She evidently was hurt. I carried her to the room, and held
her during the service.
It was a trial to me that so many of the Galwa young men,
even church-members, in leaving my service, went at once into
trade, with its inevitable association with liquor. Not all left
as deserters. The parting of most was apparently friendly.
Some wearied of the continuity of service, and wished a change;
some wanted higher wages; for almost all, the old food question
(of variety, not sufficiency) was still a problem. In trade, also,
they would have many idle hours and days : the work was com-
paratively- easy; food was always obtainable, for, the other na-
tives, in their superior interest in trade, and for rum, would sell
their produce to the trader rather than to me; and, the wages
were higher than what the mission could give. And, yet, much
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 573
of the competency which those young men brought to the white
trader came from their experience with me. From me, they
had learned a little English to speak or to read ; some ideas
about obedience and civilized manners ; and, an ambition " to
rise." There came one such young man, Re-Ndiva, on the 9th,
with a company of Sika's people from near Njomu, to occupy
the trading-house on the opposite side of the river, just then
vacated by Mr. Wichula's man. I had been reading, with much
interest, " Ramona."
On Sunday, the nth, Sika, his wife Mbaga, and their people
were at chapel. Messrs. Mooney and Lubcke, Jr., called on the
13th, on their way down to Njomu; they accepted my invitation
to stop for supper when they should return. Sika, also on his
way back to Njomu, left his wife with me, for a few days' visit
with Lucy. I had prepared quite an extra supper; but the ex-
pected guests did not return. They passed up-river the next
morning, and forgot the courtesy of stopping to leave their apol-
ogies. I was grateful for the character of the service I was
l>eing given by my young men, better than I formerly had. But,
the unreliability of both Lucy and Aziza, in their service to my
child, was more than a daily care to me ; it was an anxiety.
In the evening of Monday, the 19th, in the moonlight, on the
veranda, I gave the children a fine romp and play, which they
all enjoyed, except, when I exploded a torpedo near Aziza, Mary,
thinking it was a " gun,"' was frightened lest her nurse was being
killed.
Thursday, the 22(1, a memorable day! I started Re-Njogo
and a crew of five in a canoe to Kangwe. With that many
employees away, I took a day off, in my study. While I
was there, Alary strolled in by herself, and wanted to handle my
guitar. It was standing unused in the corner; it had been un-
touched for months. She must have often seen it there. I do
not know why it attracted her that day. To please her, I set
to repairing the broken strings. And, then, at her wish, I ac-
companied myself in a ballad, " There came a gypsy on her
way," the refrain of which. " A-ri-a-ru, a-ru," had been one of
my most frequent lullabies in her infancy. She had always
liked it. That day, she reclined on the lounge near me, listen-
ing intently. Her attitude and the song brought a startling
memory of how I had sung and played that same song for her
mother one evening in her " Cosy Nook " home at Holmanville,
X. I., in 1 88 1, she reclining on a lounge, in that same attitude.
In the trying responsibilities, cares, and annoyances of my
574 MY OGOWE
life in the African forest, I had failed to observe how I was
becoming narrowed to just one line. The music brought back
the civilized past. And, all the blessed things of that past were
still trooping in my thought, when, near noon, the Duala came,
with Mr. Letz and his captain. They could not remain for
dinner: but. they joined me in music. I played for them on the
guitar. Air. Letz on my sister's Baby organ, and the captain on
my cornet. I enjoyed a hearty dinner; and, after it, practiced
on the cornet, sitting on the front veranda. The guitar strings,
so long unused, needed a good deal of tuning during the after-
noon. In the twilight, before evening-prayers. I was again with
the cornet out of doors. The echoes struck against the hills
across the river in a romantic manner, as I played " Annie
Laurie.'' " Tis midnight hour," and other songs of my serenad-
ing days at Princeton. After Mary had been placed in her cot,
the employees asked me to show them my wooden snake. I
did, as I had done, years before. They knew that it was only
joints of wood. But. I juggled so well that its twistings and
turnings were alarmingly natural. They would not touch it.
And, I played for them, on the guitar. After they were gone
to their huts, and I was alone, the excitement of the day was
still in possession of me, the instrument was in perfect tune, and
I sat out in the moonlight, and sang, " Stars of the summer
night," " From the Tyrol I've come," " I'll watch for three,"
and other of the ballads I had learned at my Lawrenceville
home more than 30 years before. I was alone, but I sang to
quivering leaves, to the fairies of the flowers, and to the stars.
I felt as I had not felt for years. A great load from the years
seemed to roll away from me. (That day also, I had discovered
a new flower in my garden.) And, other flowers seemed to
have bloomed in my heart. It was a rare day. My little Mary
had brought it to me.
A few of the young men who left my service, had left under
dismissal and prohibition of my premises. They immediately
obtained employment with the traders near me. Thence, they
became thorns in my side. For, that prohibition did not hold
on Sundays. I invited any sinner to come to chapel. They
came, not for any reverence of the service, but to visit their
former companions, and to foment disturbance among them.
There was a singular character. Frederick Pratt, a Sierra
Leone negro, handsome, polite, educated, who was trading in
the vicinity. As far as civilized conversation counted, he was
equal to almost any of the white traders who visited us. My
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 575
sister actually enjoyed liis company. But, there was always a
suspicion with me, that, natives who came so far to obtain work
were of the class who " leave their country for their country's
good.'' He was at chapel and afternoon Sabbath school, on the
25th ; and then went down to Walker's to buy food. On re-
turning, in a storm, he was upset in his canoe and almost
drowned by the waves which any strong wind soon raised in the
Ogowe. Some years later, he married one of our best Baraka
Mpongwe school-girls, Gertrude, widow of the recreant Elder
Komanandi.
For several months, I had tried to collect a " trust " from
Chief Nze. of Njomu. Traders rarely succeeded in collecting
all their " trust " for ivory, rubber, etc. They were satisfied
with the gain they made on the portion paid. And, they ad-
vanced new loans to the debtor. At first, I had kept out of the
trust system entirely. But, had finally entered it, unable to
obtain what I needed, in any other way. But, not in its entirety.
I declined to advance any new loan until the old one was paid
in full. Faiiwe did not understand that. And. my friend Nze
had taken no notice of the messages I had sent him. So, on
Thursday, the 29th. I went myself to Njomu. I was not cor-
dially received. But. finally Nze changed tactics, and yielded
to my demand. While I was there, the Falaba came, and handed
me a small bundle, and box of limes, and apple-butter. When
I reached home, Mary was as frantically happy over that apple-
butter as most children are with any jam.
At 5.30 a. m. of Friday, the 30th, I sent a canoe and five
young men with letters, giving them 2^2 hours to reach the
Falaba at the Post. At 8 a. m. that vessel passed down. I
believed that my canoe had not reached it in time. But, only
about five minutes later, my crew also came down, in rapid pur-
suit, and followed the steamer down-river. At 7 p. m., the
crew returned, bringing back the letters. They told me that
they had overtaken the vessel, but that the captain (a new one)
would not allow them to come alongside, and had refused the
letters. It was very rare that unkindness was shown me by
any trader, English, German, or French, immoral as some of
them were, and with as little sympathy as most of them had
for our mission-work. I had joined in denouncing this man's
seduction of one of our Baraka school-girls. Naturally, he was
taking revenge. But, in asking him to carry my mail. I did not
consider that I was asking a favor of him, but of his Liverpool
firm of H. & C, who were invariably courteous and helpful.
576 MY OGOWE
That same day, the canoe I had sent to Kangwe, on the 22d,
returned, bringing again Paul Agonjo and his little son. I was
glad for Agonjo's return. His boy made another playmate for
my child. And, himself I at once utilized to do the village visi-
tation, which I could not regularly go away to do, the while I
had only the unreliable Lucy and Aziza in charge of my child.
Agonjo also assisted me in my Sunday services, and, I gave him
Nkama, as his assistant in the village work.
In the evening of Saturday, April 7, Ntula (who considered
himself as Xyare's successor in chieftainship, but whom I had
declined to so recognize), came to ask me to receive and forward
to the Post, a government canoe which he had found floating,
and which hitherto he had refused to give up ; but, which he was
finally anxious to get rid of, as he heard that his village was to
be burned for it. I refused to interfere. I had suffered annoy-
ances on my premises from him, and was quite willing that he
should get some punishment.
On Sunday, the 8th. I preached with unusual ease. But, dur-
ing the remainder of the day, I had an unusually strange fever;
and, by evening had to ask my sister to take charge of the
service. It is quite distinctive of the African fever, that one of
of its preceding symptoms is a bright mentality. When I felt
brilliant in conversation, or especially fluent in letter-writing, I
learned to suspect that fever was coming.
On Monday, the 9th, the Duala, that had been expected for
several days, passed up-river. The next day, it returned, and
anchoring, discharged a valuable mail, and fifty-four boxes and
bags of my semi-annual supply of goods and provisions. On
board were Messrs. Kerraoul, Mooney and Williams. The lat-
ter two came ashore to drink from my brook, of whose clear,
sparkling water they had heard, as it dashed down the Hill.
( There was iron in it; so much, that the edges of the banks were
colored by it. and a distinct deposit was left in my cooking ves-
sels. But, it was not obvious to taste.) Re-Njogo, whom I
had sent to Kangwe on the 6th returned on Friday, the 13th,
bringing with him Abumba. I hoped he would again be useful
as an evangelist. But, after his desertion in the preceding
December, T had not immediate perfect faith in him.
On Monday, the 16th. two of my people were sick, and wished
to go to their homes. Four others offered to take them, one of
whom was Etendi. Their offer was voluntary, and their going
was not for my service, but, for their sick companions. Never-
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 577
theless, I promised that if they returned in fourteen days, I
would pay their wages as usual.
On Thursday, the 19th, a small canoe with two young 1 men
upset in the swift current opposite the house. Little Ombagho
and another of my people hasted out to them in a larger canoe,
and saved them. Late in the afternoon of Saturday, the 21st,
my sister returned from a four days' itineration, bringing with
her a welcome lot of food, and two Fanwe boy-pupils. [One
of them was Adza, now a Christian, in the service of my French
successors.]
Friday, the 27th, I rose well ; but, about 9 a. m. was suddenly
seized with a violent nausea and vertigo, so that I was unable
to stand, and remained lying until afternoon. I do not remem-
ber the cause of the vertigo (doubtless, indigestion). But, I
failed to recognize it as an evil. [I have in these late years
learned what it means. But, that was the first time that I re-
member being so affected.]
In the afternoon of Sunday, the 29th, I discovered Nyamba
(who had been at chapel in the morning), at work in her old
garden, the ground of which had reverted to me, by purchase.
I had no objection to her taking plantain-sets from her old
stocks; but, I ordered her away from work on Sabbath. On
Wednesday. May 2. my canoe with a crew of three returned
from Kangwe ; but two days over the time-limit I had given them,
and without Etendi. They told a tale of his drinking liquor,
and fighting, and deserting them. I felt sorry for him, for, he
had been a pleasant servant.
By Thursday, May 10, Mary, who had been sick and feverish
tor a week, was again herself. I heard that there were people
from the Interior selling ground-nuts at the villages across the
river, and that they had curiosity to visit the white man's house,
but were afraid to do so ; for, they were drunk, and had heard
of my attitude toward drunkards. Lucy agreeably surprised
me by asking to join my inquiry class. She had been so friv-
olous, that I was not looking for so serious a step by her. The
kindly disposed but unreliable Aziza involved herself in another
scandal. On Sunday, the 20th. some fifteen Fanwe from Njomu,
were present at chapel in the morning, and at Sabbath school in
the afternoon.
On Monday, the 21st, came trader Sika, in a large canoe,
bringing as passenger, a former employee, Okendo, a Christian,
returning to my service. I hoped much from him, as an aid in
578 MY OGOWE
Agonjo's evangelistic work. When the canoe was first sighted,
the children mistook it, and shouted, "Mr. Good's people!"
There was at once excitement and preparation to receive Mrs.
Good. But, presently the disappointment was so great that my
sister broke down. She was needing civilized female compan-
ionship. She was sick on Sunday, the 27th, and unable to come
to chapel. But, Mary sat very quietly by herself. About fif-
teen strangers were present. Paul Agon jo's little boy did not
prove to be a proper playmate for my child. I had to send him
out of Sabbath school for filthiness.
By Friday, June 1, the dry season had come. The river had
fallen, so that several feet of the rock (opposite the brook's
mouth) were visible. The water had not been unusually high
in May; at no time had it covered my front path. Lightning
and thunder had ceased. Only slight showers at night; and
menyenge drizzles in the mornings.
On Monday, the 4th, eight Galwa canoes passed up, carrying
thatch for sale at the Post. One of them rested at my landing.
I watched the crew, and moralized on their rum-sodden faces.
For my useful tools and other helpful goods, I could with dif-
ficulty obtain thatch even by going for it myself. Then, those
Galwas were making a 70-mile journey to sell theirs for rum.
My sister had recovered, and, on Wednesday, the 6th, she
went down to Ngwilaka, on another three-days' evangelizing
journey. She took with her her two Fanwe lads, to visit their
village; and also the girl Bilaga. who, though she had run away
to be married, was only betrothed, and had returned to school.
While I was playing with Mary on Friday, the 8th. she asked
me to show her how to jump rope. I had not forgotten some
long-ago skill in that line, and my gymnastics amused her and
the servants, who then were all excited, and went out on the
lawn, to practice for themselves. The next day, the cat Falaba.
who had promised us a litter of kittens, appeared in the house
with one, much to Mary's delight.
In the evening of Sunday, the 10th, the Duala anchored at my
landing. And, next morning, I. appreciating that the vessel had
recognized my Sabbath principle, went off, before daylight, and
received some sixteen boxes of goods and supplies, and a mail.
There were constantly things that I added to the house and
grounds, in the way of conveniences. So that the house was
a very much more comfortable one than even in 1884. Besides
the chapel, and employees' enlarged dormitories, there was a
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 579
new prayer-room, and better bridges over the brook, and over
the gully (east of the house).
All morning of Thursday, the 14th, I felt dull and feverish.
But, in the afternoon, Mary asked me to play on the cornet.
She actually sang, to my accompaniment, the tune " Greenville,"
and the Sabbath school songs, " In the sweet by-and-by," and
" 'Tis the promise of God, full salvation to give."
On Saturday, the 16th, a canoe of Sika's, on its way up-river,
came with a basket of oranges from Mr. Reading at Libreville.
Some river steamer had probably dropped it at Sika's. It was
a very honest native friend w r ho had refrained from eating the
fruit ! Later, in the day, several government canoes, on their
way to the Post, stopped to buy and sell. Best of all, they told
the news that Anyentynwa, the Mpongwe woman whom a year
before Mrs. Gault had failed to obtain as governess for my
child, was on her way to me, having arrived at one of the Lemba-
rene trading-houses. My great burden began to be lifted from
me!
On Wednesday, the 20th, I started my best canoe in charge
of Agon jo, down-river to Kangwe, for the several purposes of
getting rid of two young men, who were leaving my service ; to
take away Lucy and Nkama, whom I was dismissing; and, in
hope that there might be brought back with them my friend
Anyentyuwa.
Lucy's desire to join the inquiry class was only a case of " the
morning dew." She was an accomplished dancer, and found
admiring spectators among my workmen in the evenings, her
exhibitions being very suggestive. And, poor Nkama, whom
Mr. Marling had sent to me, to save him from similar tempta-
tions at his own place, fell under her fascinations. It was a
veritable Providence that was sending Anyentyuwa to my aid at
that very time !
In my gladness, I took a holiday, next day. Leaving only
three men at the house, I took the remainder of the household,
with my sister, in her boat, and went up-river a few miles to
the sand-bank which, long before, Ombagho had called " Mary's
Ozege." The occasion was especially for her pleasure. On the
way, we stopped to inspect the government saw-mill on the upper
end of Njoli. Then, on, to the Ozege. How delighted the child
was to land there! How fast she ran! Fanwe passers-by
stopped to look, and annoyed me by the intensity of their stare,
as if we were wild beasts. We made our dinner on the Ozege.
580 MY OGOWE
Young Mr. Lubcke passing, stopped to take a cup of coffee with
us.
On my return, I planted oil-palms on the lawn at the east end
of the house, and in other places. (I had seen no oil-palms in
the Talaguga region, when I located there in 1882.)
On Sunday, the 24th, Sika and his people were at chapel and
Sabbath school. Mary's dog Don always behaved himself well
during services, lying quietly at her feet. But, that day, Sika had
brought his dog Dick. This was too much for Don's equanim-
ity; and, there was some confusion. In the afternoon, Mary
was still accustomed to take her nap, and therefore would not be
present at Sabbath school. When I returned from school, I
found her awake, but, patiently waiting for me ; she had not
cried, or been unhappy. She gratified me by often speaking of
her mother. I had talked to her of her mother's photograph.
For, she was hearing other children called to or for their
mothers ; and, I wished her to know that she had one. This
had so impressed her, that in Speaking to me of her mother, it
seemed as if she herself remembered one whom she had known,
and not simply one of whom she had been told.
On Thursday, the 28th, went with my sister and the children
to Mary's Ozege. Mary, now that she had passed the trials of
infancy, and the tests of whooping-cough and boils, and I had
learned to adjust my treatment to her fevers, was growing large
and heavy. After lunch. I went on alone with the boat and
crew, to the Post, to buy some of the government boards of its
saw-mill. T was told that none could be spared. At this I won-
dered, considering that I saw the piles, unprotected by a shed,
wasting in the exposure of alternate heat and rain. There were
great changes on Asange Island, where the Post was still lo-
cated. Many houses were built, almost the entire island cleared
of underbrush; lawns sown; paths laid out; and even a cemetery
enclosed.
On Saturday, the 30th, Candidate Mbora came again into my
service. It was a refreshing assistance to have him in the pulpit
with me the next day. And. on the following Wednesday, July
4, he took charge of the work of itinerating. But, almost as if
our enemies knew of this stronger step in evangelism on our
part, that very day. I saw a Roman Catholic priest passing in
a canoe. I changed the weekly prayer-meeting from Tuesday
to Wednesday, and held it in the chapel, having torn down the
old bark prayer-room, in order to build on that same site a larger
and stronger one.
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Facing page 580
THE MOTHER-TASK CONTINUED 581
I had kept goats, during Mary's infancy, for the sake of their
fresh milk. Now, that she no longer depended on milk, I de-
cided not to keep the animals. They had served their day.
1 wished the little fruit trees and other plants to have their turn
for life; the goats were very destructive.
On Sunday, the 8th, both Mbora and Agonjo assisted me in
the morning services, the latter in Fanwe. My little girl sat so
prettily, dressed in a white merino, sent to her by my dear
brother William. Next evening, Mary and the children had an
unusually thrilling play of a native game, " Ilage," enacted very
dramatically by Aziza.
On Wednesday, the nth, though it was dry season, the day
was showery. I think that Mary felt the unseasonable weather ;
for, she did not wish to play; and, at dinner, preferred my lap
to her own seat. Messrs. Mooney and Lubcke, Jr., called just
at dinner time, and sat down with us. In the evening, Mbora
conducted the prayer-meeting in the chapel. I had him make
the exercises longer than in the former days when I had to attend
to all the parts myself alone.
My sister with boat and crew went on Wednesday, the 18th,
for a four-days' itineration. During her absence, the frisky
Bilaga. ran away. But, she came back when my sister returned.
On Sunday, the 2 2d, Mary was present at Sabbath school.
Impressed with the sight of so much teaching being done by her
father and her aunt and others, she voluntarily took three little
Fanwe children, and in regular formal manner began to tell
them about a picture in her little book. (She used both English
and Mpongwe. ) I wondered if her mother saw the touching
sight!
I ventured, on Monday, the 23d, to go away for two days, to
Sika's, to get bamboo, for the roof of the new prayer-room.
It was a successful day in the bamboo-swamp. After supper,
I had preaching service for the villagers ; which was somewhat
spoiled by Sika's violent efforts to make the active Fanwe be-
have. It was a long time before I fell asleep in the midst of the
village drumming and dancing. The next day. with my load of
bamboo, after going homeward about a mile, I found the over-
loaded canoe leaking so badly, that, stopping in the forest, I
sent men back by land to borrow a canoe of Sika. When it
came. I divided my load ; and we safely reached home.
In the afternoon of Wednesday, the 25th, I heard that the
Fanwe across the river had seized and threatened to kill for
" witchcraft " two of the little bovs who had attended Sabbath
582 MY OGOWE
school on the Sunday. I immediately sent Agonjo and crew to
try and save them. But, Mamaga (an old man, Nyare's suc-
cessor) treated them roughly, and declared his intention to kill
the children. Mary was quite distressed for the little boys.
The next day, though I had a bad headache, I went, taking her
with me, to Nyamba's (not Mamaga's) village, to intercede for
their lives. [I have no farther record in reference to this inci-
dent. Nor have I any memory of the result. But, I judge that
my intercession was effective ; for, I do not think that I would
have no memory of the fact, if the children were finally killed;
nor do I think that I would have failed to appeal to the French,
if I had not been successful.] Fully expecting the arrival of
Mrs. Good on a visit from Kangwe, I sat on the front veranda
after 7 p. m., awaiting the coming of a steamer. I had pre-
pared candles in the six Chinese lanterns (which I kept for
great occasions) hanging them on the front of the house. Be-
fore the Dnala blew its warning whistle, I had heard the beat of
its engines, and hasted to light the candles. Then I pushed off
in my boat, and brought ashore, Mrs. Good and her Albert, and
Angentyuwa and her little girl Iga. There was great rejoic-
ing ! Mary made a frantic demonstration ! This woman,
known as Fando (the name given by her mother), as Jane (by
her father), Janie (by Mrs. Bushnell), Anyentyuwa (by her-
self), Jane Harrington (by most white people), and her younger
sister, my dear friend Njivo, were the noblest native Christian
ladies T met with in my entire African life. I had known them
intimately for twenty-five years, since they were little children.
Their father, a wealthy educated (but non-Christian) Mpongwe,
had given Anyentyuwa, when only four years old, to Mrs. Bush-
nell, as her " daughter." Thenceforward, she remained at
Baraka school as her home (but, supported by her father).
She was proud of it, as she grew from childhood to womanhood,
attached to Mrs. Bushnell as daughter, assistant, teacher in the
school, companion, nurse, friend, adviser. Nothing was too
hard for her to do for her Baraka home, and for the succession
of missionaries who came during those twenty years. Of the
two sisters, Njivo was the more beautiful, and witty; but,
Anyentyuwa was a stronger character, as a leader, and more
intellectually brilliant, her education having been carried far by
Mrs. Bushnell. Tn that respect, she was superior to two of the
missionaries. As to her truth and honesty, I have ever held her
equal to any member of the mission. She had been sought by a
score of white men, as a mistress. But, her virtue scorned their
offers of wealth.
CHAPTER XXVII
THE TASK ENDED, AUGUST, 1 888-FEBRUARY, 1 89 1
BUT, this lady, when she came to me, " had a past." Ap-
preciating from what she had come, and to what she
was coming, she sought an interview the day after her
arrival at Talaguga, and honorably making me her father-con-
fessor, she revealed to me the true story of events in her previ-
ous five years, of which all the missionaries had heard many
false and unjust statements. I am perfectly certain that she
told me the truth :
In November, 1882, when she was twenty- four years of age,
and still a virgin (a rarity, at that age, in that part of Africa),
an educated native suspended church-member raped her. At
first, she thought that her resistance had been partly successful,
and she told no one. When she found that she was to become
a mother, she told good " mother " Bushnell, who believed her.
But the Rev. Wm. Walker did not; and, she was driven from
her Baraka home. After her child was born in August, 1883,
he summoned her before the church session, pointing to the child
as proof of her guilt. He would not believe her protest. Ap-
parently, the old man was not aware of the physiological fact
that fertility does not depend solely on the consent of the female.
She was suspended. Her long years of civilization had made
her unable to support herself in the rough manual labor of gar-
den-making; and, she tried to support herself in laundering and
dress-making. Her own people she offended, because she re-
fused to enrich them by selling herself. She still went to
church. But, even there, Mr. Walker pointed her out as an
evil example. So, she ceased to go to church. In this dis-
tressed state of mind, the advances of a certain white gentle-
man, that came in a respectful way, without naming a price, but
offering love, protection, and support as wife was accepted. On
her part, I believe that she meant no wrong. She knew that in
civilization there were " common-law " wives ; and that some of
the States of America accepted the contract as a valid marriage.
583
584 MY OGOWE
In our mission (at that time) a church-ceremony was required
only of male church-members. (Other Christian women were
wives of polygamists.) In the Gaboon church, at that very
time, were a score of men and women, living as husband and
wife, with only the native ceremony accepted as valid. She
lived virtuously with that English gentleman as his wife. But,
unfortunately, she was spoken of, in traders' dissolute circles,
and on the steamers, as in the same class of women who sold
themselves for a price to any man. Which never was true of
her, in any sense.
Mr. Walker's successor in the church summoned her. Her
explanations were not listened to. She asked, at least to be
allowed to retain a suspended church-membership (as was al-
lowed, at that same time, to a man under suspension for drunk-
enness), especially as she still clung to her Bible and prayer.
She was excommunicated. Later, when she found that the gen-
tleman was unfaithful to her, she considered their contract
broken. And, she accepted the offer of a French officer, on a
promise of a marriage-ceremony. When he went to France on
his furlough, asking her to reserve herself for him on his return,
she refused, as he had failed to keep his promise. In order to
return to the church, she refused continued offers from white
men, and accepted a Sierra Leone negro trader, who fully ex-
pected to have a church ceremony. But. because it was (un-
wisely) deferred until he could build a fine house in which to
make a display of the wedding, she was refused by the session.
The man died before his house was finished. The insults that
had been heaped on her by Baraka hardened her heart. And.
she accepted the offer of a Scotchman living one hundred miles
down the coast. In a few months he was recalled to England.
At once, again, she had an offer. But. she refused it. deter-
mining to refuse all marriage, in order to be again accepted in
the church. The man. to compel her, accused her of theft (a
crime impossible for her). The local French magistrate sent
her for trial to Libreville. Even in that court-room, the judge
solicited her. She refused him ; and he condemned her. That
one act of hers, for me, condoned her previous errors. She
went to jail for righteousness' sake. It was a shame: but, I
regarded it as a crown. The affair was so outrageously unjust
that the excellent Governor Ballay paroled her; and, the judge
released her, in response to the protests of the French community
who had known and respected her. Just at that time, her sister
Xjivo, Mr. Reading's housekeeper at Baraka. was intending to
THE TASK ENDED 585
leave him, for my greater need. Mr. Reading, who believed in
Anyentyuwa, advised her to go to me. And, she came. Her
little girl, Iga-nambe, or " Josephine," or simply Iga, was just
two years senior of my Mary, and became her best playmate.
After this wonderful confession, 1 gave Anyentyuwa absolu-
tion. I believed her more sinned against than sinning. I had
the example of my Master, at the well of Samaria.
Then I told Anyentyuwa the whole history of the causes of
Handi's having left me. I gave her control of my child, with
authority equal to my own in the daytime. I still retaining
sole charge during the night. I told her that, while she was
not under my sister's authority, I wished her to give her all
respect. But, that in case of a conflict I would endorse her. I
called Mary, and told her that I would not require her to come
to me for permissions, as hitherto; but, that she might go any-
where or do anything that her governess " Ma " Janie allowed.
("Ma" is a native word, a title of respect.) Aziza, I re-
tained, as Anyentyuwa's assistant, to save her steps, and to do
her bidding. Then, I went to my sister, and reminding her of
all I had suffered for two years through the loss of Handi, and
of her own inability farther to assist me, even as to Mary's
garments, I told her of the authority I had entrusted to
Anyentyuwa, and begged her to give her no orders of any kind
whatever. I warned her that if any difficulty arose, I would
not compromise, as I had done, in order to save her, as in the
case of Handi, but would justify Anyentyuwa in any refusal to
obey. But, I assured her that the latter would always be re-
spectful. And she was. She never failed. The situation was
a delicate one; but, she carried herself with rare skill, tact,
courtesy, and womanly dignity. [Unfortunately, there came a
day, when my sister failed in her promise to me. I did not fail
in my promise to Anyentyuwa. When the choice came between
my duty to my sister, and my duty to my child, there was no
doubt as to my child's priority.] Though my mother-care was
not ended, the mother task was.
In the evening of Tuesday, July 31, came Messrs. Carrothers
and Deemin, who, at my invitation stayed to tea, and remained
overnight. I mention them particularly; for, they represented
the English firm of J. Holt & Co., which had entered the river
several years before, had retired, and now was returned, and
was located, not with the other firms at Lembarene Post, but
three miles farther up-river on the other (left) bank, in the
Iuenga tribe. And, to that firm, and to Mr. Deemin, personally,
586 MY OGOWE
I was subsequently often indebted for many favors and assist-
ances in the use of their little river-steamers, and in other ways.
On Wednesday, August I, with my household, and my guests,
we went on an excursion to the Ozege; and thence to the Post.
There we met Messrs. Kerraoul and Gazengel; and, I showed
Mary the domestic animals that were gathered there for breed-
ing.
TO BITAGA LAGOON.
On Tuesday, the 7th, started on the annual excursion to
Bitaga Lagoon, as an entertainment for my guests ; and espe-
cially as a celebration of Mary's fourth anniversary birthday.
We in the boat, and Abumba in the canoe. Being short-handed,
I gave him Aziza and Bilaga to help him paddle.
Njambi, a former employee, but then trader at Bitaga, was
not there when we arrived ; but, when he came later, he at once
gave us fish. About the same time arrived Agonjo from
Kangwe. After evening-prayers, there was an ugly talk with
some of the Fan we, who wanted to make me pay for the priv-
ilege of fishing in the lagoon. (A strange demand for a tribe
who had so outraged my property rights!) I recognized the
right of private property in their towns and gardens ; but, I told
them that the lagoon was part of the river, which belonged to
the French, to whom only would I pay tribute. The demand
was not insisted on.
The next day, sending the two canoes in advance to prepare
the camp in the same spot as the year before, the rest of us fol-
lowed in the boat. The day was given up to amusement, all
rules off. Abundance of fish ; reading, resting, talking, children
playing, eating with good appetites. And, returned to Njambi's
for the night. The following day was a repetition. In the
morning of Friday, the 10th, starting the two canoes in advance,
we followed slowly in the boat, stopping for a few minutes
each, to salute and recreate at seven different places. At the
last place, Ogombe's village, we recovered Don, who had per-
sisted in following us along the bank on Tuesday, and who had
lost us when we crossed to the other side of the river. Ogombe
had found him, and detained him for me.
The Gcuubia came on Saturday, the nth. bringing Mr. Good,
and a large valuable mail. Between the reaction from the re-
sponsibilities of the excursion, and the excitement of the mail,
I had a bad headache. On Monday, gave Mr. Good a canoe
and crew, to visit the Post.
THE TASK ENDED 587
Next day, Mr. Good was disappointed in no steamer coming;
and, as he was anxious to return to his post, I sent him with his
family, in my best canoe and crew, under the care of Abumba.
Although the day was showery, Mr. Good preferred the canoe,
as it was more rapid than a boat, and would have less difficulty
over the shallows, which were unusually numerous.
On the 15th, I was troubled with an eye-worm. I had a dis-
agreement with Mbora, on Friday, the 17th. In his trips to the
villages, I gave him a man, to paddle; but, I expected that he
also should work, and not sit idle, as if he was superior to
manual labor. I felt disappointed in him, as he showed little
energy or interest in his work.
On Sunday, the 19th, a large number of Fahwe at chapel.
In the evening of Monday, Abumba returned from Kangwe,
bringing news of the rebellion of the school-boys against the
brutality of the French teacher. Mr. Good, in his large school,
had complied with the government requisition for the teaching
of French. At Talaguga, I had not felt that the law applied
to my sister's few irregular pupils.
On Wednesday, the 29th, Agon jo and Mbora came back so
late from their itineration, that the latter was unable to assist
me in the prayer-meeting. And, I was annoyed at Agonjo's
clandestinely taking with him on his trips, bottles of palm-oil
for sale. (The remains of his old trading habits.) Selling
was right; but, I objected to his mixing it with his Bible-work.
I spoke to him about it, next day; and his acknowledgments
were satisfactory.
On Friday, September 7, Mr. Carrothers, of Holt's, stopped, in
a small boat, on his way to Asange. He brought word that he
had overtaken a canoe containing a Mr. Gacon, who was on his
way to me, and who would expect a canoe from me to meet him.
I at once sent it. To my agreeable surprise, the crew went so
rapidly that they returned by 5 p. M. of Saturday, the 8th, with
Air. Gacon, who had come to repair the Nelly-Howard. In the
evening, I enjoyed singing duets with him. He also had his
flute ; but, I could not play with him, as he followed his ear,
and not notes. Air. Gacon was a Swiss, whose trade had been
that of a cabinet-maker. He had come to Africa, as a mechanic-
assistant to Rev. Messieurs Allegret and Teisseres, agents of
the Paris Evangelical Society, who were on a tour of inspection
of the French-Kongo, with expectation of locating a new mis-
sion. Thev were following De Brazza's route to the Kongo
via the Ogowe. While waiting to perfect their plans, they
588 MY OGOWE
were the guests of our mission, at Kangwe station. Not just
then requiring- the services of Mr. Gacon, they had allowed him
temporarily to enter our service. And, he was making himself
very useful as a carj>enter in various repairs. On Monday, the
joth, he l>egan work on shaping new timbers for the boat, out
of curved branches of trees which I had collected for that pur-
pose.
I allowed Anyentyuwa to go for several days' visit to her
brother at Njomu. In a desire to accomplish several objects
on the journey, I also sent Mbora, on his exhortation duty at
the villages that would be stopped at. But, on the crew's re-
turn, they complained that he delayed them by visits to native
traders. So, he objected to going any more on village-visita-
tion, when I had any secular business for the crew. This
sounded very well; but, it was not his real reason. So, I dis-
continued his village-work.
On Saturday, the 15th. I sent a crew to Yeria for thatch: and
to bring Anyentyuwa, whom my Mary was anxious to have re-
turn, she having become already very much attached to her.
Mbora came on Tuesday, the 18th, to apologize for his lan-
guage; and, I allowed him to resume his village-work. Next
day, the place was very quiet. One canoe and crew to Njomu
for bamboo; and. in another, Mr. Gacon had gone to visit the
Post, as he had almost completed the repairs and painting of
the boat. I sent to Asange, to obtain from the Post, water-
cress for propagation at Talaguga. By Monday, the 24th, the
boat repairs were entirely completed. Mr. Gacon had given it
a new lease of life; it leaked only a little.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE,
On Wednesday, the 26th, late in the morning, in the Nelly-
Howard, heavily laden with baggage, and crowded with twenty
souls. My Kangwe journey was always associated with a
variety of errands at villages on the way. At the end of two
hours, for dinner at Njomu, at Anyentyuwa's brother's trading-
house, and left her and her little Tga there until we should re-
turn. At Xjambi's, at Bataga; he offered Mary a little mon-
key. At Sakuma village (a very large one of Njagu and Mana)
a woman gave her some sugar-cane. And. another, who was
pregnant, came to gaze steadily on my little girl, in order that
her expected child might resemble her. ( Those natives were
firm believers in "maternal impressions.") Dropped at their
villages the bovs Adza and Xjega. And. at the village of
THE TASK ENDED 589
another boy, Angwe, stopped, for the night. Those Fanwe
were very rude. I had to rebuke them, before they would give
me a seat to sit on, or huts for me and my people to sleep in.
Very rare inhospitality ! I had a headache, and slept but little
that night.
The next day, early on to Belambla. And, on, with inten-
tion to visit the new trader, Mr. Wheeler, at the Island " fac-
tory " ; but, the channels were too shallow. At the Andende
house, by 4 p. m. and was met by the two French teachers,
Messieurs Carmien and Lesage, and little Albert Good, who
came to welcome my Mary.
The following day, Friday, the 28th, walked to the Hill, to
see Mr. Good's new house on the hill-top. Preached for him
at the afternoon preparatory service. And, sat up late at night
discussing the question of native marriage-ceremony. Of
course, he differed from me.
On Saturday, went to the trading-houses, to settle bills at
each place. Did not attend the afternoon church-service, being
occupied with my little Mary, who, in her play on the veranda,
had run against a chair, and cut her lip. She cried herself to
sleep on my lap. After the meeting, I paid my men their
month's wage: and, to Aziza and Xami, Mary's attendants,
their year's dues. Mary was not well at night. So that, next
day, at the Sunday service, after I had preached the sermon,
I did not remain to the communion, but, left, to sit with my
sick little girl, all the remainder of the day. Several additions
to the church : among them, one of my employees, Mafiandi,
whom I considered very unworthy.
On Monday. October 1, Mary was better; and. I went to
Inenga, to Holt's, to inquire about purchasing their deserted
trading-house up-river, as Agonjo's proposed out-station for
Scripture-reading work. Returning in the afternoon, I walked
to the Hill, with Mary, my sister, and Mrs. Good, to inspect the
new house. From the bread-fruit which I had originally
planted there. T got a young set to be planted at Talaguga. We
had expected to return to Talaguga on Tuesday, the 2d ; but, a
note came from Mr. Letz, delaying the Akcle until Thurs-
day.
Xext day. Mary was playing, and apparently well, excepting
that she had a red rash: which, however, was not irritating. I
supposed it to be the outcome of some intestinal disturbance. In
the afternoon I packed the largest portion of our luggage, and
sent it around the island to Mr. Letz, for the journey of the
590 MY OGOWE
next day. And as the transportation given me was a great
favor, in fear of detaining the vessel even one minute (because
of its early start), I did not go to bed, but dozed in a chair
until 3.30 a. m. of Thursday. Then, I wakened the crew, and
loaded the boat. Kind Mrs. Good prepared some tea. I wak-
ened and dressed my Mary; and was off from the landing by 5
a. m. With Aziza's newly-married husband, Ogandaga, and a
new employee, and a passenger, I had a crew of eight paddles.
We reached Woermann's by exactly 6 a. m. ; and twenty min-
utes later, the Akelc started, we on the little deck, and the boat
in tow. In passing Holt's house at Inenga, Mr. Carrothers sent
off a letter generously giving me possession of their deserted
trading-house at Magenene. Passage was slow; for, a surf
boat, heavily laden with salt, was also in tow, and, the channels
were very tortuous, so that there was no hope of reaching Tala-
guga that day. As the hours slowly passed, my expectations
receded from Njomu, Erere-volo, Ngwilaka, until finally, only
by running after dark, did we reach Adza's village, the place
at which I wished to stop to inspect the Magenene house.
When we left Andende in the morning, Mary seemed well ; and,
on the steamer, she ate well, and slept on rugs on the deck, a
Very long time in the afternoon. But, when she awoke, she
was seized with vomiting and purging. I was startled, and
could not account for the sudden change. Evidently she needed
better watching than I had been able to give. I regretted hav-
ing left Anyenty.uwa. Perhaps the recession of her rash had
something to do with the case. We all went ashore. I held
meeting with the people, and informed them that the house was
mine, and that I would send them a teacher. T passed a miser-
able night with my little daughter. The vomiting and purging
continued. I feared she had dysentery. Under the medical
idea of those days, I withheld the drinking-water, for which she
begged, fearing it was not pure. Few memories in my life are
as bitter as that of my refusal to her pleadings, "O! father!
I'm your thirsty little daughter!"
We were up by 5 a. m. of Friday, the 5th, and off on the
Akelc by 6 a. m. Mary's nausea was diminishing, but her
diarrhoea continued. I gave her, alternating, little sips of lem-
onade, of water, of spirits of nitre, and of rice-water. I was
anxious for the steamer to go; and did not ask it to stop for the
Fan we lads. (Angwe had come, in time.) There was a report
that two villages were in ambush for my boat, in revenge for
the death of three of their people drowned in Mons. Kerraoul's
THE TASK ENDED 591
service. At Erere-volo, the vessel stopped for fire-wood ; and,
at Njomu for Anyentyuwa and Iga. Mary was still distressed
with thirst for water, which I feared to give her until we should
reach our perfect brook; but Ma Janie's coming aroused her.
Finally, at Talaguga, shortly after 3 p. m., she revived imme-
diately. With thirst satisfied, and a hot bath, she slept well.
The next day, Saturday, the 6th, she awoke with sudden energy ;
but, soon fell back with the weakness inevitable after her severe
purgation, which was not entirely stopped ; but, otherwise she
seemed well. Her symptoms were improved; but, she was still
so weak, that she was willing to lie in her carriage, and ride
slowly through the bedroom and my adjoining study.
On Sunday, October 7th, there was a large audience in the
chapel. Anyentyuwa and my sister stayed all day with Mary,
who was dozing most of the time ; would eat nothing ; her
diarrhoea, though still too frequent, was improved in character by
the careful medicines and food I was giving. But, she had a
cough that had become frequent and spasmodic.
On Monday, the 8th, the rainy season was fully come, with
thunder and lightning. Mary was better; but. still with no
appetite. I stayed with her most of the day. In the evening.
1 gave her quinin; it eructated; but. she bravely swallowed it
down again. For so young a child, she was very brave about
medicine.
She rose in the morning of Thursday, the 9th. suddenly bet-
ter, talking and trying to play: and this energy she kept up all
day. On Thursday, the nth, I remained a good deal in the
house with her. as she had not entirely recovered from the ef-
fects of her sickness. The cause of that sickness has always
been a mystery to me. Sometimes I have thought that perhaps
the canned food of the Akclc may have had ptomaine poisoning;
though I knew only of her eating asparagus and bananas. Now
that Aziza was married. I dignified her position by building a
little hut for her and her husband, separate from the other work-
men.
On Sunday, the 14th, though the day was showery, there was
a good audience in the chapel. Among the company was the
former trader, Ongamu. now a government agent, and his little
sister. He was an uncle of Anyentyuwa : and, they stayed dur-
ing the remainder of the day. Angwe's Fafiwe relatives came to
visit him. And. in the evening, came friend Chief Nze. to beg
for a canoe with which to complete a journey with a sick woman
of his company.
592 MY OGOWE
Xext day, I loaned him the canoe, taking - as hostages his gun
and fetish. Ongamu had gone to some villages ; and, on his
way back to Asange, he stopped to get flower sets, seeds, and
young trees, to plant at the Post. He told me that, near a
Bindube village, he had rescued a Fariwe who was about to be
sold to Fanwe near me, to be eaten, as a punishment for his per-
sistent solicitation of women!
On Tuesday, the 16th, for the first time in her life, complaint
was made to me against Mary, that she had " tawa-d " (in-
sulted) any one. The complainant was little Adza. The other
children were indignant at his making the charge. I record
with pleasure, that, during my little daughter's life at Talaguga,
she was treated by all natives with uniform kindness and re-
spect. And, she also (though from her position as my child,
she might have assumed offensive superiority) did not do so,
but conducted herself in a spirit of affiliation. The natives
were her playmates, their language hers. (I required her to
use English to me.) And. her governess. Ma Janie. was
wonderfully wise and tactful with her, in her dealings with the
Fanwe.
JOURNEY TO MAGENENE.
On Wednesday, the 17th. started, with Abumba and three
others in one canoe, and myself with Agonjo and four others in
another. As usual, there were stoppages. At Yeiia. Chief
Alukijame was away, on a war with some interior Bakele. On
to Bitaga, where I was saddened by the news of the death of
Njambi's little daughter. Mine had recovered: his had died!
Shortly below Xgwilaka, to Njagu's. I walked through the
street, and two young men engaged themselves to come and
work for me. How different from my Talaguga Fanwe. The
latter had no interest in school, or church, or work for me.
They were engrossed in " trade." Parted company with
Abumba and his crew: he was to take Angwe to his village, hold
a meeting, and join me next morning.
At the Magenene house, where Agonjo was to be stationed,
found that a door had l>een stolen ; but. it was soon returned.
Made measurements and calculation of building material needed
for repairs. Held a meeting in the evening; but, I was so sleepy,
that I shortened the service. After, I had gone to bed, Agonjo
held another meeting. This kept me awake, as I listened to the
interested inquiries of some men who were talking with him.
And. after quiet had come. I was wide awake and could not
THE TASK ENDED 593
sleep because of the bitter memory of Mary's piteous cries for
water, only two weeks previously, on that very spot.
Next day, arose early; and, after prayers, started homeward.
I was not anxious about Mary; she was guarded by the perfect
governess. And, I was free to go on errands of other duty.
At Njagu's village, was joined by Abumba, the two young men,
and two new boys. As I had no matches, at Nkogo I got a
firebrand, for our stop in the forest, for the noon lunch.
At Bitaga, I had a serious talk with Njambe about his intem-
perance. He had been a pleasant workman while in my service ;
and, I found him tender over the loss of his child. He gave me
a monkey (which, once before he had offered her) for my Mary.
On to Njomu, and stayed overnight with Anyentyuwa's brother
Antyuwa. He was a well-educated Mpongwe. I slept in the
very neatly kept room of his dead wife ; the neatest native room
I had occupied in the Ogowe.
On Friday, the 19th, ate no breakfast, and started immedi-
ately after prayers. My crew were vexed that I had given the
best paddles to Abumba's crew (who had the heaviest load) and
they pulled sullenly for an hour, until they got over their spite.
Then, we overtook Abumba, and passed him at Sanjala. I had
taken no notice of their sullenness ; and, when they came to their
senses, I myself took a paddle for quarter of a mile. All in
good spirits, we moved rapidly, and were at home before 1 1
a. m. Mary was in ecstasies at my return. Then there was
great rejoicing over the monkey. Anyentyuwa's welcome was
most courteous ; and, she prepared a strong band, to which to
fasten the little chain I had provided. Mary was again in her
usual good health.
On Sunday, the 21st, some of the strangers at chapel brought
word that one of the employees of the trader Mpaga, on the
opposite side of the river, had been killed, on a journey in the
forest, to the interior Fanwe, and had been eaten by them.
This created great excitement among my people.
On Monday, the 22(1, an unusual show of steamers, four of
them. One brought a letter from Mr. Good, and several little
things I had been needing; among others, a folding-chair, most
convenient for travel. Agon jo was preparing to leave, to get
his wife, and be ready for his Bible-reading work. Mbora too,
was about to go on a visit down-river. On Monday, the 29th,
the Akele, on its way from Asange, landed two big cases of
cloth, and a missing case of tools, 1000 dried fish, and a mail.
In the afternoon, I opened the boxes, and arranged their con-
594 MY OGOWE
tents in my little " store." There came also two Mpongwe
traders for medicine; one, for a felon on his finger; the other,
with a toothache.
Next day, leaving one of the men painting Anyentyuwa's
room up-stairs, I went in the Szvan, to take her and Iga to visit
their uncle Ongamu at Asange. Mary, of course, went along,
and behaved very nicely. I was over three hours on that five-
mile way, against the strong swift current of the rainy season.
At Asange, the houses were very busy buying ivory and rubber
from the crews of the government canoes which had just ar-
rived from the Interior, and thatch from Galwas. A Mr. Mc-
Taggart gave Mary a kitten (for which she had asked him)
while I was absent at another house. I left Anyentyuwa and
her Iga with Ongamu (to be sent for next day). The return
ride with Mary down-stream was a rapid one. She particularly
enjoyed that ride in her mother's boat.
JOURNEY TO MAGENENE.
On Monday, November 12, prepared the two canoes for a
journey, to put in order Agonjo's Scripture-reading out-station.
As usual, there were necessary stops, at Walker's ; at Yeiia ; at
Bitaga. Near Ngwilaka, I changed crews (with Abumba of the
other canoe) because my Fail we feared the Bemijige clan; and
stopped there to arrange with trader Jones, that Agonjo should
get his monthly wages paid by him. By 5 p. m., were at Mage-
nene. But, the night was a lonely sad one, with the memory of
the dreadful time of Mary's sickness there two months before.
Before daylight of the 13th, started Abumba and the Galwa
crew back to Bitaga for thatch. I allowed the three Fanwe lads
of my sister's little school to visit their villages. Agonjo ar-
rived from down-river in the afternoon ; and Abumba returned
satisfactorily. Glad welcomes all around. I had been busy all
day with Monkami, putting in door-frames and doors, and re-
pairing broken bamboo walls. But, there was an old rubber-
pit, which, in the darkness, I did not see. I fell into it, and
seriously hurt my knee.
The next day, continued busy at the repairs. But, was dis-
pleased at Agonjo's commercial traits. He had brought a canoe
of people who had fish for sale, and was allowing them to use
the house for that purpose. This occupying of a mission-house
for trade, became so annoying, with its noisy adjuncts, that I
publicly rebuked him, and ordered the fish-company to leave the
house.
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THE TASK ENDED 595
Finally, on the 15th, I left one of my canoes with Agonjo,
for his use; sent Abumba to gather the Fan we lads; said good-by
to Agonjo, near Mr. Jones' ; and, with the combined crews of
eleven paddles, entered my canoe, and hastened homeward. I
had never traveled so rapidly, by either oar or paddle. The 6
p. m. sun set on the way; but, the crew pulled well under the
moonlight. And, I was home by 7 p. m., and frantically wel-
comed by my little girl.
In the evening of Sunday, the 18th, after dark, the Ditala
anchored near the house, and a M pong we woman came ashore,
to spend the night with Anyentyuwa. Such visits of her rela-
tives and friends were helpful to her (as she had no fellowship
with the Fail we) and removed some of the loneliness of which
Handi had complained. (But, Anyentyuwa was a stronger
character, and would not have failed me, for that reason.)
As I understood that the vessel had freight for me, I justified
my unwillingness to receive it on Sunday, by rising at 3 a. m.
of Monday ; and, watching for any sign of movement on the
vessel, I went off at 5 a. m., and brought ashore four bags of
rice, eight boxes of goods, twenty boards, and a small mail. On
opening the boxes, I was rejoiced to find long-expected shoes
for Mary, her underclothing, a little wagon and other play-
things. Her duck came off with six little ones. I tried to
work at laying the floorboards of the new prayer-room ; but,
my knee, as the result of the accident at Agonjo's the week be-
fore, had become very painful, an ulcer having formed. I
poulticed it. and had to sit, a prisoner. My sister also was sick.
On Sunday, the 25th, unable to walk to the chapel, I held
service on the front veranda. But. a storm arose ; and we had
to remove into the sitting-room of the house. Two Fan we boys,
Bakara and Biduli, from across the river, came drenched with
rain. But, in the afternoon, while sister, in my place, was con-
ducting Sabbath school in the chapel, they broke into one of the
Galwas' huts, and stole their fish. During all the remainder of
the week, T was confined almost to my chair. But, on the 29th,
the swelling began to discharge; and, as a result, I was free
from pain.
Saturday. December 1, being pay-day. and "pay,"' to the
employees, meaning more than an employer's comfort, I sat in
the store-room, and, with the aid of Mbala to hand me articles
from the shelves, and of Anyentyuwa to skillfully measure off
yards of cloth, I paid the month's wages.
Ovanga ("Efifie"), Ongamu's wife, who was visiting at
596 MY OGOW'K
another Mpongwe trader's, Rapantyamba, a short distance
down-river at Walker's old place, came to sew for herself on
Anyentyuwa's sewing-machine, expecting to stay over Sunday.
But, in the evening, as she found that she would not be allowed
to use the machine on that day, she changed her mind, and asked
for a canoe to take her home.
On Monday, the 3d, the Gambia came, bringing Mbora.
But, during all that week, I was continuing my poulticing. The
discharge was favorable, and the healing process began even
sooner than I had hoped for. So, that, on Sunday, the 9th, I
was able to limp to chapel and to Sabbath school. And, on
Monday, the 10th, I resumed work in the prayer-room, sitting
in a chair, and directing the putting-up of doors, etc. My sister,
on the nth, went in her Evangeline, on an itineration to Agonjo,
to whom I sent, as his canoe-helper, a young man Ndambe, and
some building materials.
Xext day, the former Fanwe school-girl Bilaga, and a young
(ialwa girl, came, fleeing from Ntula's village, in fear of a fight,
in which an Akele man had been killed and two others wounded.
This was just before morning-prayers; afterwards, came two
little boys, also in fear. The two girls remained all day and
the following night. Two young men who the evening before,
had gone up-river with a white man. on their way down-river the
next day. stopped and gave me a letter purporting to be from
Agonjo. telling of troubles which the people of Magenene were
making him. [It afterward proved to be a forgery, concocted
by our Roman Catholic enemies, who were jealous of my having
established a Bible-reader's out-station, and who hoped to
frighten me into closing it.] I was not alarmed; but, just at
the time, it did disconcert me. even though (according to the
habit I had learned, of discounting all native reports) I did not
fully believe the letter at its first coming. Later, when I learned
its source. T quite recognized its Jesuitism. The next day. Fri-
day, the 14th. my sister returned from Agonjo's; there had been
n<> trouble there.
It had been agreed that the next annual meetings of mission
and presbytery, to occur in January. 1889. should be held at
Talaguga. Libreville was central, and Baraka had ample quar-
ters for entertaining the entire gathering of white and native
members, coming from the extremes of our field, Benita, ninety
miles north, and Talaguga. 275 miles south. I had been travel-
ing all that distance annually for many years, and I had asked
the brethren to do me the justice to come and inspect my work.
THE TASK ENDED 597
I did not know how many would come, though I could scarcely
expect as many as usually came to Libreville. My house was
small. But, hospitality is not measured by the size of one's
house. With my sister, I planned for possibilities, and made
a number of impromptu bed-frames, especially for the native
elders.
As Mbora was looking toward the ministry, on Sunday, the
1 6th, I placed the superintendence of the Sabbath school in his
hands. Before my guests should come, I wished all the records
of the year to be closed; therefore, I went to Asange, to settle
my accounts there. Many items of this kind I had attended to
during the week; and, by Saturday, the 22d, I felt quite elated
at my success. And, on Monday, with the aid of Abumba and
Mbora, took account of stock in the little store-room.
In the afternoon of Wednesday, the 26th, took Mary on an
excursion to her Ozege, and allowed her to bathe to her full de-
light in the river. I had never before allowed this, with her
former attendants. But, with my perfect faith in Anyentyuwa,
I felt safe for my child. Her governess stood near her, but on
the deeper water side, and devoted her watchful eyes and hands
to the child's play, not attempting for herself, as any other at-
tendant would have done.
JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
There were still parts of the year's accounts to be settled, at
Kangwe, before the coming of my guests. I determined to
make the journey with no stoppages. Leaving the station in
my sister's hands ; and my child in the care of her governess, I
started down-river, on Thursday, the 27th, reaching Agonjo's
for the night. At the noon lunch in the forest next day I had
an unusual dinner; the remains of a Christmas mince-pie,
onions, and a pineapple. And, was at Andende, early in the
afternoon. Mr. Gacon's room, which I was to occupy, was not
quite ready for me. Miss Harding, on the Hill, seemed sur-
prised that my sister had not come with me. Next day, I went
to the trading-houses, and settled my accounts. Mr. Carrothers,
of Holt's house, was at Andende, ill with fever. In the
afternoon, the Akele came; and. it was decided that he should
go to Cape Lopez, in hope of reaching a physician at Libreville.
The next morning. Sunday, the 30th, he was carried on a
cot to the vessel ; and, Mr. Good went with him, to take care
of him. It was a sad sight. I feared that the sick man would
not recover. [He did not; he died on the voyage.] In Mr.
598 MY OGOWE
Good's absence, I conducted the day's communion services, bap-
tizing eight persons. Miss Harding scandalized the occasion,
by disorderly proceedings, in distributing, at the close of the
services, picture-cards, not in a quiet way. but by holding- an
auction for chances.
On Monday, settled with Agonjo, the accounts which he had
disputed on Saturday. I was almost on the point of a break
with him, because of his demands for extras, and that I should
provide him with lights. But, he receded. My man, Re-Xjogo
arrived from his home, with a new man Londo. [Londo be-
came very useful and reliable]. He was going up-river, with a
canoe-load of dried fish, for sale to the Fan we.
RETURN TO TALAGUGA.
On Tuesday, January i, 1889, my men were early getting the
two canoes ready. Two of them, Mbala and Ogandaga, had
returned during the night, from their homes, the former bring-
ing his wife, Mwanyeno. I was pleased to have the young men
bring their wives. It meant that they expected to remain with
me. Thus was relieved much of the discontent that had marked
the earlier years of Talaguga life. The presence of the young
women made a home-life, not only for their husbands, but also
for the entire working company. They helped also to make a
living for themselves, by service to me, in sewing, or laundry,
or as assistants to Anyentyuwa. For, while I placed in her
hands the entire responsibility for the day-care of my Mary, I
did not expect her to do all the child's errands or to furnish
all her play ; for these minor duties I gave her the Galwa assist-
ant. With my two canoes and eleven people, we were accom-
panied by the fish canoe. One of my Galwas, Mburu, had some
fear (I did not know why) as we passed a village of my former
Akele friend Kasa's people. I did not often yield to such fears ;
I expected my presence to be a sufficient protection anywhere.
All three canoes stopped for the night, at an Orungu trader's,
opposite the head of Xenge-sika (the " Goree " Island).
Xext day, all three canoes started, with fine progress. A
trader's canoe, in fear of the Fan we of Agonjo' s out-station,
joined my company and passed that village safely, though I
stopped there to pick up Xjega and Adza, who were ready and
willing to go back to school. At the 6 p. m. sunset stopped for
the night at Erere-volo! Never had I made so rapid an Ogowe
journey from Kangwe. A usual three days' distance, accom-
plished in two.
THE TASK ENDED 599
On the following clay, Thursday, the 3d, we passed on rapidly,
not stopping- at villages (as, of course, I did when itinerating,
for preaching). To stop to eat in a village always took time.
So, we ate in the forest beyond Njomu. The crews having
done so well, I allowed them to rest there two hours. Then,
reaching Talaguga early in the afternoon, I was welcomed by
my little child's ecstasies. But, I had to make a protest to Re-
Njogo, about his fish. It was all right, for sale to the Fanwe;
but, I would not have the noisy bargaining on my premises;
he should take the fish and sell them in the villages himself.
On Friday, the 4th, I had a serious talk with Mbora, who was
unwilling to go on his itinerating work. And, next day, when
I sent a canoe and crew for Anyentyuwa to visit her brother at
Xjomu, I expected Mbora to join it. But, he still wished to
argue about conditions. I was unwilling to delay the canoe.
So, he did not go at all. He said many unsatisfactory things ;
and decided to leave Talaguga at the close of the expected
presbytery meeting. The canoe returned that same day, as
Anyentyuwa did not find her brother at home. There were fifty
people at chapel services on Sunday, the 6th. I did not ask
Mbora to assist. The Oviro passed up, bringing news of Mr.
Carrothers death. Next day, I sent a messenger to Asange to
inquire particulars of his death at Manji-Orungu (Cape Lopez).
Was busy, putting up a variety of conveniences for the presby-
tery, whose coining I was looking for on the Falaba which was
expected in a few days. I took time to make improvements in
the neatness of the grounds, which I had omitted to do while
occupied with the more strenuous needs of house-building. I
rooted up stumps, graded the walks, and smoothed the lawn and
flower-garden. All these I had wished to attend to before. I
was not unmindful of esthetics. But, I had not found the time,
especially during the previous two years, when I had had such
wretched aid in the care of my child.
Angwe's people came for him on Tuesday, the 8th; he did not
wish to go; so, I refused them. They left; but, returned at
night, and took him away. Though I had fully recovered as
to my knee, evidently there was something wrong in my system ;
for, large abscesses formed on a thigh and on each breast. It
was touching to observe my little Mary's tenderness whenever
she came to me, to avoid pressing against either of the painful
spots. My preparations for the expected guests were all com-
plete. And, now I feared that they might come before my boils
600 MY OGOWE
were healed, I had to lie on my back, in order to retain in
position the poultices on the nipple of each breast. I never had
known how painful an inflamed breast could be. I quite sym-
pathized with the often sore nipple of young mothers.
On Sunday, the 13th, the Duala came and landed a mail. In
it was a book for Mary, and a scrap-book sent her by little Mary
King, daughter of a friend of her mother, at Barnegat, N. J.
By Friday, the 18th, my boils were so much better, that I
did a little work in packing a box of native curiosities to be sent
to the United States. And, I began to be anxious for the com-
ing of the presbytery. I was almost well ; everything was ready ;
the premises in fine order. When would the expected steamer
come? My sister gave a magic-lantern exhibition, on Monday,
the 21st, in the chapel, at which the native traders and their
people from across the river were present.
I became so solicitous about the non-arrival of my expected
guests, that, on the 22(1, I sent a small canoe and crew of three,
to go rapidly down to Kangwe, to inquire the news. That same
day, the Gaboon passed up, and word was shouted ashore that
the Falaba had arrived at Lembarene on the 21st. So, I was
excited with the prospect of the vessel reading Talaguga, in
probably a day or two later. Agonjo with Okendo (whom i
had associated with him) arrived, to report their having finally
occupied the out-station, and to get a supply of goods for their
current expenses.
On Wednesday, the 23d. after a heavy rain, late in the after-
noon, came the Duala (not the Falaba) with my guests, Rev.
and Mrs. Marling with two infants and two servants; Rev. A.
C. Good, and his boat and six crew, and his church elder
Yongwe; Licentiate Etiyani and Elder Itongolo, from the
Benita region; Elder Owondo-Lewis of the Gaboon church;
Mrs. Ogden; Mr. J. H. Reading, and his housekeeper Njivo
wife of Mbora; and Mr. Menkel and his little daughter Grace.
1 promptly went off to the steamer; and, with my boat and two
canoes, brought all the visitors and their luggage ashore. I set
the church-bell to ringing a welcome. After all were ashore
and housed (by which time it was dusk) I hung out my Chinese
lanterns on the veranda. All were comfortably located. And,
there were glad welcomes, and hurried telling of news. It
being the prayer-meeting evening, the usual meeting was held,
though somewhat late. And, I sat up late, talking with Mr.
Reading. Njivo, who had deserted Mbora a year previously,
would have nothing to do with him; would not go to his house,
THE TASK ENDED 601
nor allow him even to speak to her. I gave her lodging with
her sister. Njivo had no legal grounds for her desertion of her
husband. She was wrong; and yet, in my love for her, I pitied
her. The marriage had been an unhappy one. I blamed myself
for having urged her into it.
On Thursday, the 24th, the fatted calf was killed (in the
shape of a goat). And, the guests were allowed to look around
them, before beginning the discussions of mission and presby-
tery. Meeting of the latter began in the afternoon.
On Friday, the 25th, sessions were held all day; of mission in
the morning, and of presbytery in the afternoon. It was very
strenuous work for me; as, besides my being clerk, there were
certain duties I had to attend to as host. It would have been
impossible, had I not had my sister, a skilled hostess, into whose
hands I had placed all the food-supplies, direction of servants,
and entire liberty of arrangements; and, also, as I was relieved
from anxiety as to my Mary's interests, by her most capable
governess.
On Saturday, the sessions of both bodies continued all day.
During the session of presbytery Itongolo was licensed; Licen-
tiate Etiyani was ordained; and Mr. Reading, as Licentiate, ac-
cepted a call from the Gaboon church ; and presbytery adjourned
at night.
On Sunday, the 27th, Mr. Marling went early to the villages,
and, by his fluent use of the Faiiwe language attracted a large
crowd who came with him to chapel. There, both he and Mr.
Good preached. In the afternoon, the Lord's Supper was ad-
ministered (the first time at Talaguga). I presided and made
the address. Air. Good baptized (as Talaguga was a part of
his parish), and Air. Marling distributed the elements. In the
evening, there was a native elders' meeting.
On Monday, the 28th, sessions of mission continued. When
our meetings were held at Libreville, and there was no oppor-
tunity, for two or three weeks, for return to the Ogowe, Mr.
Good submitted to the impossible, and remained during all the
sessions. But, at Talaguga, with the river at his hand, and his
Kangwe only a day's boat-ride distant, he could not control his
restlessness. He declined to remain longer; and, before day-
light of Tuesday, the 29th, he was up, loading his boat, and was
off with his crew, Njivo, and Air. Alenkel and his little daughter.
The rest of us took a vacation from the continued strain under
which we had been driven, and went for an excursion to Aiary's
Ozege. We all lunched there. I remaining there with Alary,
602 MY OGOWE
Aziza and Nkengani, for her to enjoy her river bath, the others,
Mr, Reading, Rev. Messrs. Marling and Etiyani, Mrs. Ogden,
and Licentiate Itongolo, with the crew went on to inspect the
Asange Post. During their absence, I saw, but failed to catch,
a specimen of the rare Antimachus butterfly.
Mission ended its sessions, on Wednesday, the 30th. I
marked my boxes for the United States; wrote letters; and,
at night made out orders for my next six months' supply of
provisions, etc., from England and America. On the 31st, my
boat was' loaded, and it left for Kangwe, with Mr. Reading,
Rev. Etiyani, Licentiate Itongolo, and Elder Owondo. My re-
maining employees felt lonely, at the depletion of the number
of visitors ; of the latter, there being only Rev. and Mrs. Marl-
ing and their children and servants, and Mrs. Ogden. We all
walked to my old hill-side cottage ; thence, I took my visitors to
see Mrs. Nassau's Pool, up the course of the brook.
On Sunday, February 3, there was a goodly company of
strangers present at chapel. I had not supposed that the Fafiwe
would come, assuming that their curiosity had been satisfied on
the previous Sunday. The days of the middle dry were hot;
but, during the week, Mr. and Mrs. Marling, in the Swan, went
itinerating.
On Thursday, the 7th, we all, except Mr. Marling, went on
a walk around the entire outline of the Talaguga property.
My boat and crew returned from Kangwe. As they brought
word that there was no prospect of any river-steamer going to
Libreville until near the end of the month, Mr. and Mrs. Marl-
ing felt that there was no need for them to leave Talaguga.
On Sunday, the 10th, there was a good attendance at chapel,
that was unexpected ; for, I had seen a large canoe-load going
a-fishing; and, Mr. Marling had not gone, as on the previous
Sundays, to invite. My Mary was again suffering with a crop
of boils. Had expected to go, on Wednesday, the 13th, for an
excursion to Mary's Ozege ; but, my sister was not well ; and, I
too lay on my back with a poultice on my chest over a boil.
On Friday, the 15th, in her Evangeline, my sister went to
Kangwe, to escort Mrs. Ogden. The steamer Basilic passed
up in the morning of next day. Mr. and Mrs. Marling, in
my boat, followed it to the Post, in order to inquire news from
Libreville. The company at the station looked very small and
weak, compared with the crowd of the previous week.
On Sunday, the 17th, a good attendance at chapel. In the
afternoon Sabbath school, I baptized Mr. Marling's little boy,
THE TASK ENDED 603
Cameron Adams. The Marlings were preparing for leaving
on the expected Akele. But, late in the afternoon of the 19th,
the Gambia, passing up, stopped to leave a letter from my sister,
which said that she would arrive on the 20th. Also, Mr. Mc-
Taggart on the Gambia thought that the Akele was up the
Ngunye. Fearing that that little steamer would not come in
time for the Marlings to reach Cape Lopez before Sunday, I
engaged the Gambia to stop for them, when it should return
from Asange on the morrow. So, about 10 a. m. that vessel
came, and took Mr. and Mrs. Marling and their children and
two boy attendants. My remaining household looked very
small. But, at sunset, the Akele unexpectedly came, towing my
sister and her boat. She had met and communicated with the
Gambia, and had been overtaken and aided by the Akele. The
story of her rapid return was interesting. There were two new
Germans on the vessel, Messrs. Czech and Haber, who came
ashore for an hour in the evening. When the vessel came down
from Asange next morning, it took as passenger Malango, the
last of my sister's Kombe pupils. There remained only Galwas
and Fanwe. Then, for two days, there was clearing away of
the marks of our visitors, beds, and bedding, and food; and we
returned to our usual family routine. The presence of the
mission had been a great stimulation.
On Sunday, the 24th, an unexpected good attendance. Our
visitors being gone, I had supposed that the Fanwe had nothing
new to attract their attention. Agon jo, Okendo, and their peo-
ple came on Tuesday, the 26th, to get their month's pay.
Okendo was asking for advance in wages; which I promptly
refused. My Mary made another forward step in growth.
Instead of her regular childhood tumbler of milk and porridge
immediately on awaking in the morning, she was first dressed,
and then came to> the breakfast-table with the rest of us.
Next day, Agonjo left; and the two lads, Njega and Adza,
having completed their promised time, left with him, to return
to their villages, where they would be near to his Sunday ex-
hortations. At the presbytery meeting in January, I had been
appointed chairman of a committee with Mr. Good, to set off
from the Kangwe church, two separate organizations, one at
Tgenja, about fifty miles down from Kangwe, and one at
Wambalya, about fifteen. I was to go down to Kangwe at
such time as suited Mr. Good's convenience. When on March
5, the Akele brought word from him, for me to join him a week
later, I was suffering from boils on my thigh. But, I would go,
6o 4 MY OGOWK
anyhow; for the journey and boat would be his. I could He,
even with the boils ; my special duty was to direct the orderly
and parliamentary erection of the new organizations according
to church law. Notwithstanding my sore leg, I went, on Fri-
day, the 8th, with my sister in her boat, to take Mary to her
Ozege. Her dog Don persisted in following us along the river-
bank a long distance.
On Tuesday, the 12th, though I had been, for a week, poul-
ticing my boils, I packed for the journey, which involved many
details. There were Mary's clothing, for a long absence. And,
Anyentyuwa needed to go to Libreville, to look after her house-
affairs, which she had left unsettled in her sudden coming to the
Ogowe. I planned to ask kind Mrs. Good to take care of my
child during the expected ten days of Mr. Good's and my
journey, if Anyentyuwa should have to leave Kangwe, by what-
ever river-steamer might be going to Libreville, before my re-
turn. I sent to Asange, for a supply of goods for my sister.
who was to have charge of the station during my absence. The
messenger, on his return, brought news that the Falaba, on its
way up-river, was aground near Belambla ; and, that Mr.
Mooney was drowned.
JOURNEY FOR CHURCH ORGANIZATIONS.
On Wednesday, the 13th, in my boat, off at 6 a. m. sunrise,
with a variety of baggage, and crew of eight, and my Mary, and
Anyentyuwa and her Iga. Of course, there were to be stop-
pages. At Njomu, for Anyentyuwa to see her brother Nyilino.
As we were passing Nkogo, I was allowing the men to rest on
their oars, as we were drifting with the current. I was at the
tiller-ropes, sitting with Anyentyuwa and the two children, under
the thatch covering T had, as usually, made against rain and sun.
1 was chatting with them, and not noticing tilings ashore. My
crew looked up, saying. " Do you not hear? You are being
spoken to from shore." I looked over my shoulder, out of
the boat's stern, to the village we had just passed. A man was
standing at the landing, holding up something in his hand, and
was shouting, " Come, buy meat ! come, buy meat ! We've been
down to Abange Creek, and have killed two men. Come, buy
meat!" The thing he was holding was a human arm, he
grasping its wrist with his hand. I do not think that he was
calling to me. T do not believe he would have dared. I do
not suppose that he saw me hidden under the thatch. He evi-
dently was calling to the crew. They resumed their oars. It
THE TASK ENDED 605
was the most open display I had ever seen of Fanwe cannibalism.
At Ngvvilaka, to see Mr. Wheeler, Mr. Jones' successor. At
Agonjo's by 10.30 a.m. was rejoiced to meet a Fafiwe in-
quirer, for enrolment into the class. After our noon meal, I
took Agonjo and the inquirer with me. Thus, I had ten pad-
dles, instead of six oars, and traveled very rapidly. At Mbomi,
to inquire for a Goree trader " James," who had with him, as
his wives, two cousins of Anyentyuwa. That was not his place;
but, I found them at Osamu-Kita. She went ashore to see them ;
but, she was not well received by him. She returned with a sad
story of the slavery in which they allowed themselves to live.
We found the Falaba still aground ; it was endeavoring to lighten
itself, by discharging its government cargo into the little Gambia
and canoes alongside. I found two packages of mail for Tala-
guga. I divided them, taking my share, and leaving the re-
mainder to go on to my sister, when the Falaba should succeed
in moving. I tried to make arrangement with the captain, Wat-
kins, for Anyentyuwa, as a prospective passenger to Libreville.
But, he was not very obliging. Farther on, the crew were en-
thusiastically singing a boat-song. I was not listening particu-
larly to it. I was always pleased that they sang; for, then they
rowed better. And, I could not always hear the words that were
used. But, I noticed that Anyentyuwa was very uncomfortable.
On my asking her what was the matter, she hesitated ; and, then
said that the song was a very obscene one. She did not say what
were the words. I ordered the crew to be silent. They seemed
surprised. I told them that T would have a rebuke for them,
when we should reach Kangwe. She told me privately that she
felt that the song was sung on purpose to insult her. (I knew
that most of my employees had ill-will toward her, because of
her superiority as a Mpongwe, and because of the authority I
sometimes gave her, as a woman, over them.) We reached the
Andende beach at 7 p. m., dark, and cold, and rainy. No one
there to meet us, or to welcome, or to tell us where to go to.
Presentlv. a little boy, bearing our voices, came and said that
Mr. Good had left word that we were to come to his house on
the Hill. Then, the French teacher, Mr. Carmien, gave us a wel-
come : and Mr. Gacon followed. The boy having a lantern, I
sent him as guide, with Anyentyuwa, Iga. and Alary carried by
one of the crew. Then, I waited at Andende, until all the lug-
gage was carried and piled in the dining-room ; and, then sent
to the Hill certain pieces which I knew would be needed there
at once. The school-boys, afraid of leopards, were unwilling
6o6 MY OGOWE
to carry anything for me on the long, dark path through the
forest to the Hill. Then, I dismissed my tired crew. At
Andende was awaiting me a mail that had just arrived by the
Duala, with a lot of freight, boxes of cloth, dried codfish, and
other things to be examined and stored. Then, tired with the
long day, I walked lamely up the dense, dark path alone. I was
welcomed at Mr. Good's ; and, I found my Mary happy, playing
with Albert Good's young tamed bush-cat (a civet, or perhaps,
genet). While I ate my supper, Anyentyuwa gave Mary her
bath for the night. And, then I followed a long talk with Mr.
Good about his plans for our journey, suggestions for the pro-
posed two new churches, and nominations for the Elderships,
etc., etc. Also, as to the probabilities of steamers for A-
nyentyuwa. In case of her having to leave while we should be
away, I asked that Mrs. Good would care for my child during
the few days until we should return. She, in her generosity
was quite willing. But, he refused to allow her to assume any
additional care, and insisted that Anyentyuwa should not go on
the expected Falaba (in company with Miss Harding who was
leaving the Mission) ; but, should wait for the Duala expected
to leave later on the 23d ; by which time he assumed that we
would have returned. Of course, I assented. As to the time of
return, the boat, crew, plans, and all were his; I was only a pas-
senger. If we failed to return at the date himself had named,
the entire responsibility lay with him. Then, I sat up, still later,
reading my mail. My right thigh was painful, with a large
phlegmon.
Next day, when a heavy rain diminished, T went with A-
nyentyttwa and the two children, to Andende, to put away lug-
gage, to divide hers and mine, to take what I needed for my jour-
ney, and to put in a separate pile what she needed on the Hill.
Mr. and Mrs. Good followed us; she was packing the food-box
for the journey. I investigated the matter of the obscene boat-
song. I had assumed that a certain Ataka was the leader. I
was amazed to find that it was Paul Agonjo! They all denied
that the words had any reference to Anyentyuwa (perhaps that
was true) ; and some of them denied that there was any obscene
meaning. But, I then, as ever afterwards, with my utter faith
in her, believed her word against any number of persons, na-
tive or foreign. It was a very ugly discussion. (They almost
all became her enemies.) T gave them directions about carry-
ing her baggage up the Hill. (When I returned ten days later,
I was told that two of them had refused.)
THE TASK ENDED 607
THE JOURNEY.
We knew that the journey would be with rain, at least once
every twenty-four hours. Mr. Good started his boat about 10
a. m. of Thursday, the 14th, and he went around the island on
some errands to Lembarene. I took along my box of cloth,
which I put ashore at Mr. Letz's, for it to be taken to Talaguga
by the Akele ; and engaged passage for Anyentyuwa on the
Duala, whenever it should go down-river. And, at H. & C,
Mr. Good engaged passage for Miss Harding to go on the soon-
expected Falaba. On, down-river, to pick up Elder Yongwe.
Ate in the boat. At Oranga, I landed two of the three of my
own people (passengers) to their homes. On to Igenja, eat-
ing only a lunch in the boat; and landed after dark. My thigh
was paining me very much. Was welcomed by Awora and
other former employees. Mr. Good had a hearty supper pre-
pared, the enjoyment of which was marred by the numerous
mosquitoes.
The next day, Friday, the 15th, the Oviro, on its way up-
river, stopped for wood. Mr. Deemin came ashore, and told
us about the Roman Catholic priests at Cape Lopez buying
slaves. As walking was painful for me, I sat, and very many
old friends came to salute. After a good bath, I felt more com-
fortable. I held a private consultation with Elder Yongwe,
Awora, and Mamba, separately, about the meaning of my crew's
boat-song. They all justified me in my interpretation of it. In
the afternoon, meeting did not begin until 5 p.m. I preached
a sermon, called a congregational meeting, and, according to the
Book, organized fifty-two members from the Kangwe first
Ogowe church, into a second Ogowe church. Then, nomina-
tions were made for elders ; and, Awora, Abumba, and " Sim-
eon " (a protege of Mr. Good's) were elected. I felt happy that
two of those men had had their first instructions from me, in
my Kangwe days. Then Mr. Good ordained and installed them.
On Saturday, the 16th, my boils kept me in my room, whither
came many visitors ; while Mr. Good, as moderator, was holding
session examinations. In the afternoon, I preached a prepara-
tory sermon.
On Sunday, the 17th, the Lord's Table was spread in the
. morning ; one man and three women were baptized by Mr. Good.
In the afternoon meeting I baptized a babe, while Mr. Good was
off preaching in a Faiiwe village. I had many applications
from former employees to return to my service. In the evening,
608 MY OGOWE
I sat alone, from choice, with many thoughts of memory, under
the starlight, and listening to the tropic leaves, shaking under a
soft wind. I thought of the changes in that Igenja town, dur-
ing the past ten years. A village, once heathen, now so quiet
and civilized and respectful; with good houses; and our hospi-
table reception.
On Monday, the 18th, Mr. Good had the boat ready early.
I had supposed that we would go at once to Wambalya, for the
church organization there, in order to be back at Kangwe by
his date, the 23d. But, instead of that, he loaded the boat with
plenty of food, for an itineration into the Three Lakes. That
was an added trial to me.
He stopped to eat and preach at a village Lambe (where I
remembered I had stopped for the same purpose, with my sister
and Licentiate Kongolo, ten years before). A lad in that vil-
lage, a member of the inquiry class, had his hand wounded by
a gun. It was soon evident that Roman Catholic influence was
strong in that village. Crossing to the left bank, to a Fanwe
village near friend Azaze's old Nandi-Po (to whom I sent a
present of a gun and powder, in thanks for his aid in collecting
gorilla specimens), Mr. Good went ashore to preach. Those
Fanwe were very savage-looking, and very dirty; their women
were searching each other's heads for vermin, and eating the
insects ! On to Oranga, by 4 p. m. Mr. Good crossed to
Ngomu, on the left bank, to preach. [Our mission's successors,
the Paris Evangelical Society, have now a station at Ngomu ;
and. the Igenja church is removed there.] I remained in
Oranga, in Simbuve's nice house, where he gave me a comfort-
able room, in which I could bathe my thigh with hot water.
He had been a former employee, and like many others, had
sometimes been disobedient, and even disrespectful, and had de-
serted me. But, not a single one of them, in meeting me in
subsequent years, retained any grudge against me, or failed to
give me a welcome and kind attention in their own homes. (I
have felt that they were not largely to blame for that past.
Nor myself, I had not refused them food, or failed to give them
sufficient of a certain kind. But, at that time, varieties of food
iverc not to be had.) There was a meeting held in the even-
ing. And, visitors came to see me. Azaze came with a present,
and thanked me for the gun. Two of my people, from Igenja,
finding that the journey was to be into the lakes, left, and went
directly to Kangwe. (It would have been well had I gone with
them.) I wrote by them to Anyentyuwa and Mary.
THE TASK ENDED 609
On Tuesday, the 19th, Mr. Good entered the lakes Onanga,
Ogemwe and Ezanga, by their exit at Njomu. I pass over the
record of those painful days in the boat, the 19th, 20th, 21st.
Neither the journey nor the work was mine. I was a helpless
burden. In the night of the 21st, by the upper entrance to the
lakes, at the village of Ompomofiwana (whose Roman Catholic
inhabitants fully carried out what their priest taught them, i. e.,
to be discourteous to Protestants) my phlegmon began to dis-
charge.
On Friday, the 22d, in the hot morning sun, and with my
headache, the boat went down-river several miles to Wambalya.
There, while Air. Good was busy with Elder Yongwe, I was
placed in a comfortable house of a young man Ambamani, where
I bathed ; and the boil was easier, though my headache was
worse. The Akele passed down; but, it brought no news of
the Falaba, or whether Miss Harding had gone. Communion
bread from Airs. Good, and letters from my sister (forwarded
from Kangwe) were awaiting us. I had many visitors. The
organization meeting was held in the afternoon, and the third
Ogowe church was constituted ; and three men were elected
elders ; an old man Mamba, and two others in their prime of
life, Re-Montigo and Ntyanga. I was not acquainted with them;
the latter, in his heathen days, had been chief of the village,
from which Xguva was rescued in 1879.
By Saturday, the 23d, I felt almost well again ; for, I was
free from headache, and could walk a little, as the phlegmon
was well discharged. The Jeanne-Louise passed down. At
first sight, I thought it was the Falaba; and, then. I wondered
where was the latter vessel, and what she was doing. And, I
was becoming solicitous about the appointment for Anyentyuwa's
sailing. Mr. Good had insisted that she should not go until he
returned ; and. yet, himself had named the Duala as the vessel
for her. with its probable date of the 23d. Here was the 23d ;
but. by his own delays in the lakes, he was not yet returned to
Kangwe! I do not know why he delayed in Lake Ezanga; nor
did I make any protests. When we left Ogemwe Lake on the
20th, we could have passed through Lake Onanga, and, by the
second entrance from the Ogowe. could have emerged into the
river, and could have been at Wambalya that very day ; could
have attended to our third church organization on the 21st; and
could have been back at Kangwe on the 22d.
On Sunday, the 24th. there were dark clouds and wind ; and,
when we saw that a heavy rain was coming, people gathered into
6io MY OGOWE
the church-building for refuge, though it was not yet church
time. While standing outside the door, I saw the Duala pass-
ing down. I waved a friendly hand to the company of men and
women on the deck ; and, two handkerchiefs responded. They
were Miss Harding and Anyentyuwa! The morning service
was interrupted in its solemnity by people straggling in late.
Ten adults were baptized, six of whom were women. The
collection was an exciting scene ; to see the beads, tumblers,
plates, yards of cloth, etc., etc., pushed into the bushel-basket.
(There was no metal currency in the Ogovve, at that time.)
Aziza came to complain against me, because (on my report to Mr.
Good of her habit of lying) on Saturday session examination,
he had refused her baptism. When I gave her Anyentyuwa as
my witness, she said she would fight her! I had known of
Aziza's untruth myself. And, I remembered that one day little
Iga had come to her mother, in wide-eyed horror, exclaiming,
"O! Mama! Aziza will teach Mary to tell lies!" Not, I be-
lieved, that the young woman would deliberately teach my child
to be false ; but, Iga, child as she was, had been so truthfully
trained by her mother, that she feared that Aziza's habits of
untruth would be a bad example for Mary.
After the services, when I told Mr. Good, of the two ladies
being on the Duala, he was very much disconcerted. So was I.
Not that I feared that my child would not be tenderly cared
for by kind Mrs. Good, during the interval of two days; but,
because it would be done against her husband's wish, even
though the vessel had delayed one day later than Mr. Good's
own date for it.
The next day, his displeasure against Anyentyuwa continued.
And the 15-mile journey to Kangwe was not a pleasant one. At
last, when 1 was faint with hunger, the boat stopped at a planta-
tion in Kenje Greek, at the hut of a Galwa slave; he was kind, re-
membering me from my Kangwe days. Then, we emerged into
the Ajumba branch of the Ogowe. Leaving the boat and crew
at the Nkami side of Kangwe Hill. Mr. Good and I clambered
up the path to the rear of the house. T saw my child sitting in
a doorway, and unaware of my arrival until I spoke. And, then,
her glad welcomes ! Again and again during the afternoon, she
was repeating to me. " My dear father comes to me! " (Prob-
ably the echo of some kind assurance of Mrs. Good that " father
would come.") T was given by Mrs. Good a frightful leopard-
story, more details of which, Anyentyuwa gave me when she
returned some months later: All the native ladies were very
THE TASK ENDED 6n
careful about their daily baths. In most villages, there were
small thatch enclosures, in the rear of the huts, where that bath-
ing is done, morning and evening. At Mr. Good's, Anyentyuwa
had taken the two children with her one evening, for her own
and their bath, into a little out-house of that kind. She always
carried a lantern at night. While in the out-house, she per-
ceived the strong odor of a leopard, and felt sure that one was
near. Most bravely she did not frighten the children ; but, tell-
ing them to cling close by her, she hurried over the distance of
more than one hundred feet to the dwelling, up the veranda steps,
and into the house. She told Mrs. Good her suspicions. And,
in a few minutes, there was a fearful commotion on that very
veranda. Mr. Good had a very large mastiff, " Dick." The
dog's fierce barks were mingled with a leopard's growls. And,
there was a series of heavy tumbles, as the two animals fought.
All doors and windows had fortunately been closed. But, the
front-room windows, opening on to that veranda, extended low,
almost to its level. There was only the thinness of the panes
of glass separating those desperately fighting beasts from the
terrified women and children in the house ; for, the shutters had
not yet 1>een closed. Presently, the fighting ceased ; and, the
only sounds were the whines of the dog. Mrs. Good ventured
to open the door; and. the brave animal stood there, torn and
bloody. The leopard had gone. The next day, its bloody
tracks were followed into the forest. That lantern in Anyentyu-
wa's hand had been my child's protection. Leopards fear a
light. The beast had probably been lying in wait under the
house. (All our houses were built clear from the ground, on
posts, from three feet to six feet high.)
TO TALAGUGA.
Wednesday, the 27th. Much was to be gained by early starts
on journeys. But. the crew was so slow, to come from Andende
to carry my boxes from the Hill, that, at 6.30 a. m. leaving Mary
still asleep, I went all the way to Andende to call the men. On
the way. T met the only faithful one, Londo. He had called the
others; but. they were slow to follow. I had suspended Agonjo
from his Scripture-reading work ; but, he, rather than be dis-
missed entirely, had offered to come back to his former ordinary
work as a laborer at Talaguga, until I could regain my confi-
dence in him. He handed me a letter written to me by Anye-
ntyuwa at Lembarene trading-house, on Saturday, the 23d
(whither she had that day been taken by my crew, to await the
612 MY OGOW.E
going of the Duala). I hasted back to the Hill; ate a hasty
breakfast ; took my child ; and with her hurried back to Andende ;
urged the loading of the boat; and actually was off by 8 a. m.!
T had eleven in the crew. So. relieving myself of my usual task
at the rudder, I called Agonjo to take it ; and devoted myself to
Mary. At dusk, for the night, at a native trader's house, on the
Goree Samba's old site, opposite the head of Nenge-sika Island.
My little girl was so tired and sleepy, by long confinement in the
boat, and no little companion, that I stayed by her bed, and
allowed Agonjo to hold evening-prayers.
In the morning of Thursday, the 28th, Mary had a little strip
of pretty cloth, which the village women claimed as theirs.
There was an unpleasant investigation, as if she had stolen, as
charged by the women. She calmly said she had found it at
Kangwe. And, the crew sustained her statement. Doubtless,
the women had had a piece from the same bolt of cloth. My
little girl was always truthful ; and, I never even suspected her of
theft. The day was hot; but, the thatch over the stern protected
daughter and myself. The full river was stiff in its current, and
progress was slow ; but. I hoped to reach Erere-volo for the
night. But, an accident happened with a rudder-pin. Fortu-
nately, we were near the Falaba, which was still aground where
it was two weeks previously. Captain Watkins compensated for
his discourtesy of that time, by having his engineer forge a new
staple for me. This was a good fortune, worth the loss of time.
Hope of reaching even Nkogo failed ; and, after dusk, we
reached the lower landing of Ompom-Isosa. The Bakele were
not hospitable, and gave me only a tumble-down hut. I blamed
Ndambe my own messenger for having accepted it as good
enough for me. I ordered all my belongings to be carried back
to the boat. We dropped down-river a few hundred yards, built
a camp-fire in the forest for my men; and Mary and I slept in
the boat, not very comfortably.
Next day, Friday, the 29th. as Agonjo and his Fafiwe had
been set ashore at Magenene, for him to gather his belongings,
there remained only nine paddles. To devote myself to my
child, I called one of them to the rudder. Though that left only
eight paddles, we made better progress than on the preceding
dav. At the lower landing of Bitaga, I allowed Mary to play
ashore awhile. In the hope of reaching Talaguga that day. I
again took the rudder; and the nine paddles worked enthusias-
ticallv. The boat flew! We reached our home at candlelight.
Our coming being seen, the Chinese lanterns were lighted for a
THE TASK ENDED 613
welcome; but, my tired little girl had been sleeping for two
hours. After discharging the boat, and putting things away, I
sat up late, hearing my sister's reports, and telling her mine.
On Sunday, the 31st, a large number of Fafiwe were at chapel.
I tried to induce them to take charge of and remove to their
villages a certain Fail we man, who had wandered on to the prem-
ises during my absence, whom Ntula had thrown into the forest
to die. He had been a care and a nuisance to my sister. But,
they would not take him.
On Monday, April 1, Mary's attendant, Mbala's young wife,
Mwanyeno, had a big wash of her garments soiled during our
two weeks' absence. I held a reckoning with my crew. As I
had given them liberty either to wait for me at Andende during
the days while I was away with Mr. Good, or to go to their
homes and return in time, I intended to pay them full wages for
all those days, as a present. I did so to all, except three; and,
of those three, I dismissed two, for the boat-song offense.
Next day, Agonjo and Okendo and their people came for their
month's wages. The following day they left, taking as passen-
gers some five of my people. But, a Fanwe lad, Ngwa, brought
by Agonjo, remained to work and study. Our remaining com-
pany seemed small.
On Friday, the 5th, instead of the one large phlegmon of the
lake journey, I had numerous small boils. But, as they were
diminishing in size, I felt encouraged. People from Njomu
came to sleep for the night, and left their canoe in my care, they
to carry their trade-goods through the forest back into the
Interior.
By Wednesday, the 10th, I was confined to the house, using
frequent hot water applications instead of poultices. And, my
sister also was suffering from neuralgic pains. Several of the
employees also were sick. I began almost to suspect that boils
were contagious. For years, I had not had so few employees,
and so many of them sick. I had accepted Agonjo's offer to re-
sume work as a day laborer at Talaguga, the while I held him
under suspension from his Scripture-reading work. And, I sent
Okendo and his ten men to keep the Magenene out-station tem-
porarily.
On the 18th, Ntula came to sell iguma. I needed it; but, I
refused to buy from him, because of his having cast away the
sick man, for whom I was still caring.
At sunset of Friday, the 19th, in face of a coming storm, the
r>i 4 MY OGOWE
Duala whistled; and, I went off to it, thinking - that possibly
Anyentyuwa was already returning. I found Ombagho and a
mail. Also, a number of white traders, Mr. Allam, general agent
of the H. & C. house, from Libreville, and Messrs. Jones, Letz,
Kutz, and Chef du Poste, Mons. Du Val. On Sunday, the 21st,
a good attendance of Fanwe. Xtula came to ask for the man
whom he had thrown away, and promised to take care of him.
The Fanwe, who had left their canoe in my care on the 5th,
emerged from the forest on the 23d, and resumed them. Elder
Abumba conducted the prayer-meeting, as I stayed with my
Mary.
On Thursday, the 24th, some Fail we, from near Asange.
stopped to see my house. They asked me for liquor! It was
their ignorance. All other white men, traders, government of-
ficials, travelers, and Roman Catholic priests used liquor. Why
did not the American? My sister returned from a three days'
itineration. Pawa, wife of Elder Abumba, was attending to
my clothes-mending, during the absence of Anyentyuwa. But,
even she was sick, on May 1. Some fifteen Fanwe were at
chapel, on Sunday, the 5th. Heard that they had shot a leopard.
On Friday, the 10th, for the first, in a long while, I was free
from the pain of boils. I resumed work on the manuscript of
my neglected revision of the Benga grammar.
With Agonjo, I went on Saturday, the nth, to the villages
toward Asange. I sent to one of the trading-houses, and bought
for Mary a food-dish, on whose cover was the form of a gorilla,
especially made for the African market. She was much amused
with it; and, it became one of her treasures on the table.
On Sunday, the 12th, my Faiiwe neighbors did not come to
chapel, as they were awaiting an expected attack by the Bindubi
clan. Sent Elder Abumba, with two men, down-river, on a few
days' itineration.
On Wednesday, the 15th, I completed the writing of the
" Story of Anyentyuwa."' [The revelation of missionary in-
justice to that lady was so astonishing, that the American Tract
Society, to which I offered the manuscript some years later,
begged me not to publish it. lest it injure the cause of missions.]
On Sunday, the 19th. a large attendance of Fanwe at chapel,
under the escort of the woman Nyamba. I was entirely free
from my boils. After dark of Tuesday, the 21st, I heard the
whistle of the Duala. The night was threatening with rain.
At the steamer. 1 found Rev. Messrs. Allegret and Teisseres, the
delegates from the Paris Evangelical Society. The vessel was
THE TASK ENDED 615
anchored in a bad place ; so, she took up her anchor, and moved
up to a safer place. But, then the anchor broke, and the vessel
drifted in the swift current down near to some dangerous rocks,
before the crew could rig another anchor. The next day, the
22d, the Duala's anchor was fast among rocks, and she
could not raise it ; so, she cut the cable, leaving the end fast to
a buoy, with the expectation of, at some future day, recovering
the anchor. But, the buoy was too light, and the whole line
sank. In the afternoon, I took the two visitors a walk to the
hill-side cottage and to Mrs. Nassau's Pool. On Thursday, they
went, preferably in a canoe, as far as Njoli Island, to visit in
the villages. And on Friday, they went, also by canoe, to visit
Asange Post. And. on Saturday, the 25th, very early in the
morning, at their wish, I aroused a crew under Agonjo, and by
5 a. m., my agreeable guests started to return to Kangwe.
By Monday, the 27th, I was again working on the final copy
of the manuscript of my revision. of the Benga grammar. My
Mary felt the loss of the protecting care of her " Ma Janie " ;
for. she told me that the house-boys did not treat her kindly in
their afternoon plays.
Agonjo returned on Thursday, the 30th, from Kangwe ; but,
with no mail, nor any news from Gaboon. I was much disap-
pointed. Before daylight of Saturday, June 1, Okendo, who
had come on Friday, for his month's wages, left with Agonjo;
the former to visit his sick mother, and the latter to bring his
wife.
On Monday, the 3d, the Duala passed up; but, no signals for
me. I was very much disappointed that there was not a word
of news, even from Kangwe. And, at night, I was annoyed at
Elder Abumba's request for increase in wages ; and, at Mbala's
asking leave of absence for a month, the while that I was espe-
cially needing him to stay in charge, when I should be away at
the Kangwe communion in July.
On the 5th, my household was not in good health. I was bil-
ious ; Mary with a cold in her head ; one man with an abscess in
his ear; another with fever; another with a cold. The effect,
probably, of the cool dry season ; for, the rains were light, no
more thunder; river falling: skies dull; and nights cold.
The Akclc brought me a large mail on Saturday, the 8th; and,
in the afternoon, my sister returned from an itineration.
On Tuesday, the nth, I gave Elder Abumba a crew of two
men, to go to Igenja, on a two weeks' absence, for his session
duties in the second Ogowe church.
616 MY OGOWE
On Saturday, the 22(1, went in the Swan, with Mary to
Asange Post. Happened to arrive at the meal hour, when
many Frenchmen were at their table, as a good-by feast to
Messrs. Kerraoul and Gazengel, who were about to leave, and
Mons. Du Val to take their place. We were invited to the table.
But, Mary was so awed, that I declined. So, Mons. Du Val
kindly sent out a little table with cakes and tea and jelly. Unex-
pectedly early, Elder Abumba returned, bringing a new employee,
Angeka. Also, Elder Simeon and crew, to sell produce at
Asange, stopped over Sunday. There was a letter from Mr.
Reading that tried my friendship, in his detention of Anyentyuwa
at Libreville. This extreme disappointment so oppressed me
that it was with difficulty that I went through the services of
Sunday. On Monday, the 24th, I was busy getting together
our clothing for Mary's and my journey for the 27th. I con-
cluded to sell Don ; for, his howling at all church-bells, and at
the singing at daily prayers, had become too annoying. Sold
him to Mbigino for $1.00.
JOURNEY.
I prepared for a long absence ; for the double object of attend-
ing the quarterly communion at Kangwe, and then, to go into
the lakes, on a gorilla-hunt. Some years before, I had promised
my friend Thomas G. Morton, M.D., to send him a gorilla brain,
for examination in comparative anatomy. I had hired my native
friend Azaze, at Ngomu, to hunt for me. But, if he obtained
any, I was too far away at Talaguga ; and, since Mr. Reading's
departure from Kangwe, there was no one there to receive or pre-
pare the specimens. So, I decided to take a vacation. I had
had none, for years. None of my other journeys had been holi-
days. They were full of responsibility, care and anxiety. This
journey should be a leisurely one, into the lakes, without an
exacting program, and to be followed under convenience and not
necessity. On Thursday, June 27th, leaving at Talaguga young
men, whom I regarded as reliable, in my boat, with my sister,
and Mary and her Mwanyeno, and crowded with luggage and
crew and passengers, a start was made after our noon meal.
Stops, as usual: at Njomu; at Bitaga; and beyond Ngwilaka.
And, stopped at Agonjo's (whom I had restored), to let off
three Faiiwe school-boys, and for the night.
Next day, Friday, I had still five of my own crew, and three
passengers (of course, they paddled too). By 4.30 p. m., we
were at Andende. There were no people at the landing; for,
THE TASK ENDED 617
they were all in the church, at preparatory service. Leaving
most of my luggage at Andende we went to stay on the Hill.
Mbala annoyed me by insisting on following Mwanyeno. Of
course, she was his wife; but, temporarily, she was my employee
with Mary, and was to sleep in Mrs. Good's girl's-house, where,
of course, he could not go. On Saturday, Mwanyeno said she
was sick, and Mbala wanting to leave at once to go to his town,
and she was conniving with him. So, I bade her to go and not
return. Then, Mbala was humble; and, they both stayed.
Had such a headache that I was not able to preach for Mr.
Good in the afternoon. Messrs. Allegret and Teisseres (at
.Andende) were all of courtesy and politeness, both on my arrival
and during my stay.
On Sunday, the 30th, we all were at church. Though weak,
I preached, and assisted Mr. Good in the sacraments. And, in
the afternoon missionary conference, added remarks to his ad-
dress. Azaze arrived from Oranga with a dead enormous male
gorilla. Valuable as it was to me, I waited until Monday to
begin my work on the carcass.
On Monday, we all went to the Andende landing to see the
gorilla. Some time before that, in conversation with Mr. Teis-
seres, he had slighted the idea of a gorilla being dangerous, and
said that lie thought that a man attacked by one, should fight it
with his fists, just as he would a human assailant. That morn-
ing, as we looked at the enormous fearfully ugly beast (the
largest I ever saw) Air. Teisseres was so awed that he would not
touch it. I skinned and decapitated it, took off the top of the
skull, and got out the brain. But, it was softened, by the two
days' time from Oranga to Kangwe, and was worthless for
Doctor Morton's purposes. Nevertheless, I paid Azaze my
promised $20, and added $10 to keep up his interest to obtain
me another. In the afternoon, I intended going with Air. Good,
on some errands to the Lembarene trading-houses. But, Alary
was so disappointed at not being allowed to go, that, as I would
not leave her in tears, I came back to her.
The next day, Tuesday, the 2d, in my own boat and with my
own crew, I went to Holt's Inenga house, for a bargain of cloth
with Air. Deemin ; also, for guns, ammunition, kettles, and rum
(for preserving my expected gorilla in the lakes). Alary went
with me. and was amused at hippopotami in the river ; and, at
Air. Deemin's, with an English fox-terrier and her three pup-
pies (one of them subsequently became hers), a porcupine, and
a chimpanzee. We returned to a fine dinner, to which Airs.
6i8 MY OGOWE
Good had invited the two French clergymen, and the two
French teachers from Andende. Mr. Good was not well, with
an on-coming fever. Mr. Allegret had his camera, and offered
to take our photographs. For this purpose, Mary was specially
dressed in her best ; and, my sister said that she would take care
of her on the side porch, until the sun should suit Mr. Allegret.
Shortly afterward, I heard a thud and a scream. I found that
Mary had been left to play with the other children; romping on
a bench near the edge of the porch (that had no rail) the bench
had tilted, carrying her to the ground three feet below, and bruis-
ing her forehead, head, and thigh, and covering her dress with
the contents of a basin of Mrs. Good's yeast. A long time was
required to quiet her and to re-dress her. In the meantime,
Albert was photographed ; and, then Mary had two sittings.
But, neither were satisfactory to me ; she could not divest her
face of the look of fear. At night, Mr. Good was sick in bed.
I am not superstitious, and did not believe in the " premoni-
tions " (muscular movements) of the natives. But, several
times in my life, I have had presentiments of what was to occur.
So strong and vivid the impression, that I was as positive that
the event would occur as if some one had told me it was actu-
ally occurring. That night, I awoke with a strong impression
that Anyentyuwa had either come that day, or would be met by
us on the morrow, in my expected start down-river to the lakes.
I was positive that she would be with me on the excursion;
otherwise, I would not have planned to take Mary with me.
And, I spent the morning of the next day, Wednesday, in ar-
ranging our baggage at Andende. By noon, Mr. Good was
very much worse. About, 2 p. m. Anyentyuwa suddenly ap-
peared by a small canoe from Holt's Inenga house, having ar-
rived Tuesday night, by the Gaboon. Mary was overjoyed.
At once, with her and her Ma Janie in my boat, I went to
inenga, to get her luggage and Iga. And, returned in the even-
ing. I was intensely relieved, to have her back again in her
care of Mary. She had come from Libreville by the Elobi to
Cape Lopez, and thence by the Gaboon to the Ogowe. Messrs.
Allegret and Teisseres had been with Mr. Good all afternoon,
prescribing for him; and, they remained with him all night. It
was a severe attack of malignant fever, such as he had had once
before.
On Thursday, the 4th, I gave up my lake holiday, until Mr.
Good should be better. Anyentyuwa went by canoe to Inenga
for some of her goods she had forgotten. On Friday, I did
THE TASK ENDED 619
nothing; waiting-. Read "Little Lord Fauntleroy." I sent one
of my men to fish. He caught only a few, which I divided be-
tween him, Mary, Albert, and Iga. At night, there was an ex-
citement at Andende, two Fanwe attempting to kidnap one of
the school-boys. I remained awake, to be of any service. On
Saturday, the 6th, Mr. Good's symptoms were thought to be
slightly better.
On Sunday, the 7th, Mary went with me to church. I
preached. But, Mr. Gacon was the only other white person
present. Mrs. Good, of course, was with her sick husband ;
Mr. Carmien had gone to Lembarene, to summon the French doc-
tor ; but, the latter was away at Cape Lopez, escorting the sick ex-
Commandant Labastie. My sister had a severe cold, and could
not be present also at the afternoon Sabbath school. Just at
close of school, the new Commandant Possilet called at Andende.
Mr. Good seemed much better. The slight improvement in his
condition, making it possible for him to travel, gave hope for his
life, if only he could get away from Africa. So, on Monday,
Mr. Jones, of H. & C. house, was sent for, to consult about
probable steamer dates. And, Mrs. Good began to pack for a
journey to the United States. But, Mr. Good had not yet as-
sented. He could leave the care of the station with our guests,
Messrs. Allegret and Teisseres, who were not yet ready to make
their own Interior journey, as they were waiting for Count De
Brazza. But, who would take charge of the three churches?
It was a very trying situation. Mrs. Good asked me, " Won't
you be willing to take charge of them, as you did once before? "
" Certainly ; but, you remember that Mr. Good was very dissat-
isfied with my superintendence of them.'' " I know ; but, won't
you do it?" "Certainly, if Mr. Good wishes it." I never
have known why he did not request me. But, I could not en-
dure the sight of Mrs. Good's distress. It was not a time for
resentments. Putting aside all other personal feelings, I offered
to Mr. Good to attend to the churches, if he would go, and save
his life. He consented. We anxiously watched his changing
symptoms during the three following days.
On Friday, July 12, after his baggage had been sent to
Andende, (whence my boat took them to Lembarene), he was
carried down the Hill on a cot. And, the Gambia came ; and,
escorted by Mr. Teisseres, he left on that little steamer for Cape
Lopez. We came back to the Hill, feeling lonely and sad. I
made final arrangements, on Monday, the 15th, for my holiday
in the lakes.
620 MY OGOWE
I had invited Mr. Gacon to accompany me as he was a good
marksman. On the Monday noon, while hunting near Inenga,
he had shot a hippopotamus. It is well known that the body
always sinks, and does not float again for several hours. If in
a quiet lake, it will probably rise at the same spot, and the hunter
watches for it. But, if in a river, the body will certainly be car-
ried with the current, and will be found at some lower point.
When, Mr. Gacon went, six hours later, to look for it, he was
told that it had already been found floating by people of Dakar
village. They, claiming it as abandoned property, had towed it
to their village landing. At night, Air. Gacon went there, seized
it, and brought it to Andende.
GORILLA-HUNTING.
On Tuesday, the 16th, I was early at Andende; and found
great excitement about the hippo. The Dakar people had called
the commandant, charging Mr. Gacon with theft, and had en-
listed the aid of their Roman Catholic priest against the Protes-
tant missionary. Mr. Gacon seemed at ease. He left the affair
to be settled by the French authority. And, he started with me at
8 a. m.. in my Nelly-Howard, with Mary and her governess and
Iga. , On the way, we met the Dakar people and the command-
ant going to Andende. The people wanted Mr. Gacon to go
back, for the judgment. He seemed to think that the judgment
would be in his favor; and, I had no interest in the affair.
So, we went on our way. But, the paddling was slow, with a
crew of only six, and passengers, and a variety of baggage.
Stopped at Aveya's village to eat, and to get his brother
Ampamba as guide. At one of the Wambalya villages, Elder
Yongwe gave us a leg of goat-mutton. Into Lake Onanga
through the second, or lower entrance from the river. My
objective point was Okendo's Scripture-reading out-station in
Lake OgC'nme. ( On my restoring Agonjo to his out-station
work, his temporary substitute, Okendo, had been transferred
to Mr. Good's care, who had placed him in the lake.) Seeing
that we could not reach his place before night, we stopped at
dusk in a little sandy cove of an island a few miles distant from
him. It was a romantic place; we sat a long while talking
around the camp-fire. I had my tent for Anyentyuwa and the
two children: a cot-bed with mostquito-nets for myself; and Mr.
Gacon had his net and a rubber-blanket on the ground.
On Wednesday, the 17th, we were early at Okendo's. He
was not just then at home. But, the villagers were expecting
THE TASK ENDED 621
us. (I had sent word in advance; and, the Christian man, Osa-
mu-wa-mani, had built a hut for us.) After Okendo came, our
goods, and the hut, and my tent were arranged. Mr. Gacon
went out alone to hunt ; and returned, having seen tracks of go-
rillas, but not the animals themselves.
The story of the following five days, Thursday, Friday, Sat-
urday, Monday, and Tuesday, of my gorilla-hunting, I have told
in detail in my " In an Elephant Corral " (Neale, 19 12) : How
we went each day, sometimes with too many noisy guides; saw
gorilla tracks ; one day, where the grass where they had been
lying was still marked by the outlines of their forms ; another
day, where we saw one disappearing from a plantation ; another
day, when we made a frantic rush through a jungle, where our
guide's dog had found and was attacking a gorilla mother and
her child. But, though we thus saw the animals, in our close
pursuit of them, we did not succeed in capturing any. On Sun-
day, the 21st, we heard news from the natives that Mr. Good
had obtained passage from Cape Lopez to Libreville. I held
preaching services. During the day, a woman fainted, making
some confusion, it being feared lest her life was in danger. In
the evening, the villagers were dancing and drumming, in some
incantations for driving away the spirit of a recently dead slave,
who was believed to be annoying a certain woman.
My failure to obtain a gorilla during the five days' hunting
would not have prevented continuing my effort. But, on one of
those days, I had fallen over a log, and injured my knee. So,
on Wednesday, the 24th, we left Okendo's ; and, going slowly,
took our noon meal near the Bird Islands, a rookery of hundreds
of pelicans. Mr. Gacon shot six, while we rested there all the
afternoon, and Mary bathed in the lake, from a small sandy
beach. The feathers of the birds Anyentyuwa kept for a pillow,
and the meat the crew dried.
The next day, Thursday, we stopped at various places. But,
the journey had ceased to be a pleasure. My knee was too pain-
ful for me to hold the rudder ; and the crew would not obey Mr.
Gacon. And, on emerging into the Ogowe, I happened to meet
one of my people coming from Kangwe, who said that my sister
was sick. After dark, we reached Elder Yongwe's village Elovi,
for the night, and were kindly entertained by him. But, I went
to bed with a fever chill. On Friday, the 26th, after a long
patience with the crew, I again took the rudder, and quietly told
them that there would be no stops, even if we had to travel all
night, until we reached Andende. That stirred them; and,
622 MY OGOWE
thence on, they pulled well, reaching Kangvve by 6.30 p. m.
Sending Anyentyuwa and the children in advance up the Hill, I
remained to discharge the boat. On the Hill, I found my sister
sick with bilious congestion of the liver, and with a heavy cold
that had settled in the glands of the throat.
Though my knee was still quite painful, I had to go to
Andende to look after our luggage. And, I sent to Lembarene,
to inquire about steamer probabilities. The traders were still
very kind and obliging in giving me passage and towage. On
Sunday, the 28th, I preached to a tolerably good congregation ;
and held Sabbath school. My sister was better ; and I consid-
ered the possibility of her being well enough to leave her on the
following Wednesday; for, it was important that I should be
at Talaguga, in the limit of time I had named to Elder Abumba.
whom I had left there in charge. (Mr. Good's sickness had
altered my calculations.)
Three of my people deserted on Monday, leaving me rather
short of a crew. (Desertions were always more frequent in
the cool dry season, June Septem1>er ; for, at that time, were the
excitements in the villages, of camping, fishing, and plantation-
making. ) I was troubled also about the uncertainty of our
Ogowe mission's future. Though I kept within the legal limit
of a " school," by the irregularity of the times, places, and per-
sons taught by myself or my sister (so that French was not
taught at Talaguga). there was some ill-feeling on the part of
the Lembarene commandant. For, our Roman Catholic enemies
made constant misstatements against me. And, the demands of
the French government were becoming more insistent. At
Kangwe. the law. in regard to the teaching of French was fully
kept by Mr. Good. But, he was hampered by the priests of the
adjacent Roman Catholic mission, who tore up the Scriptures
and other school-books which they found in his school-children's
hands in their villages. While in health and before he went
away sick, he had openly, in presence of sister and myself, advo-
cated handing the Ogowe stations over to the French brethren
(who said that they did not wish them, and preferred that we
should remain; as they were planning for the Kongo). At a
communion season, when my sister congratulated him on the
ingatherings of that day, he had said, in my presence. " Miss
Nassau, I do not consider that a single one of these has come to
Christ through me. You and your brother and others were
teaching them ten years before I came. I wish to get away to
some new place, where I shall not build on another man's foun-
THE TASK ENDED 623
dations." [His acknowledgment that my work ante-dated his
was just. Later, he obtained his own wish, in the Batanga In-
terior.]
TO TALAGUGA.
By Wednesday, July 31, my sister was recovered sufficiently
to make it safe for me to leave her; though she did not feel
ready for a boat- journey. So, I started with Anyentyuwa and
the two children. Though the water was low, and the banks
were out, I had learned the routes so well, that we had no dif-
ficulty in getting around them. The crew pulled admirably;
and, for the night, we stopped on a sand-bank below Nenge-
sika Island. A passing canoe from Xgwilaka brought word from
Agonjo that his child was sick. And, an hour later, himself,
wife, and child stopped on their way down ; and then proceeded
on their way. ( More than even in civilization, the natives,
if sick in a strange place, were anxious to get "home" among
their own people.) Resuming our journey on Thursday,
August 1, there was the stop for lunch at Belambla. And, then,
with splendid rowing, another stop at Agonjo's, to see my sis-
ter's three Fafiwe lads. And, then, for the night, on the sand-
bank near Xgwilaka. With some slow progress on Friday, we
came, for the night stop, at Anyentyuwa's brother's.
On Saturday, the 3d, taking the last stretch, we were at our
Talaguga home just before noon. Elder Abumba reported that
all was well, excepting the loss of one of Mary's kittens and one
duck. He gave accounts of attempted trespassing by the Fafiwe,
and his efficient stoppage of them. Also, of a little Fafiwe boy
whom he had rescued from being murdered, under a charge of
witchcraft.
On Sunday, the 4th. there was a large delegation present at
chapel. I sent Elder Abumba, on Wednesday, the 7th, with
boat and crew to Kangwe, for my sister.
I was conscious that my more than eight years of continuous
pioneering work was exhausting me. I had hoped that the mis-
sion or the board would recognize the conditions of the situation,
and that they would have sent some one to be my associate and
successor, to relieve me when my health should no longer per-
mit me to remain. I heard with satisfaction of the arrival at
Libreville of two new missionaries. Rev. and Mrs. B. B. Brier,
and was expecting their coming to the Ogowe at any early date;
where the question would be decided as to their location, whether
at Kangwe or at Talaguga.
624 MY OGOWE
Passing canoes always shouted their news. It was wonderful
how all sorts of news was thus picked up. A canoe of Gal was,
on Thursday, the 8th, reported that a man from Oranga had
arrived at Kangwe, with word that Mr. Brier would probably
not come. Later, I learned that Mr. Reading (whose friend-
ship for me had gradually been reduced to a minimum) had
given the new missionaries pessimistic impressions of the Ogowe,
and had influenced them to desire to go to Batanga.
Mr. Reading was a remarkable man, in the almost hypnotic
influence he had exercised over me. I had opened the way for
him to come to Africa. He came to be our treasurer. We
never had a more efficient one. His accounts were perfect to a
day. He and I were great friends. He was an excellent ad-
ministrator and business agent. I relied on him. And, he could
induce me for almost anything. Mrs. Reading was a most
spiritually-minded Christian lady. Her quiet influence pre-
vented his commercial traits from becoming too dominant. But,
when he returned to Africa without her; was all alone at Baraka
station, as treasurer, not only of that station, but of the entire
mission, his commercialism overcame him. He began to engage
in trade. It was a strict rule of the board, that, in order to prove
to the natives our singleness of purpose, we should engage in
nothing that would bring us pecuniary gain, outside of our sal-
aries. Mr. Reading's doings aroused the jealousy of an English
trader at Libreville, who sued him before the French magistrate,
for trading without a license. He was proved guilty, and was
fined. Then, he took out a license ; and continued trading. The
scandal became so great that individual missionaries appealed to
me, as clerk of mission, to report the matter to the board.
And, there were complaints of other undesirable matters. The
board, on reception of my letters (while, of course, they would
be just to Mr. Reading, not to dismiss him without giving him
opportunity to defend or explain) immediately ordered him to
come to Xew York, and make answer. And, at once, had sent
Rev. W. C. Gault (who was on furlough in the United States
with Mrs. Gault) to leave Mrs. Gault, and shortening his fur-
lough, to hasten to Libreville, and take charge of the treasurer's
office in Mr. Reading's absence. My action aroused Mr. Read-
ing's bitter enmity. Xo enmity is greater than that of broken
friendship. He used all means to pervert Mr. and Mrs. Brier.
They fell under the same bland hypnotic influence that, for so
many years, had blinded me. As new missionaries, they be-
lieved all his statements, and were sure that right was wrong,
THE TASK ENDED 625
and vice versa. As to Batanga, the mission had hitherto dis-
tinctly refused to send there any white missionary; its officially
recognized line of progress being to the south, and interior-ward,
through the Ogowe.
On Sunday, the nth, had a good assemblage in the chapel, in
the morning. In the evening, I had a solemn conversation with
Anyentyuwa. So exemplary had been her conduct during the
year that she had been in the Ogowe, that I offered to restore
her to church-membership at any one of the three Ogowe
churches. She said that she would rather go to Libreville, and
be restored by the church that originally had disciplined her.
So low was the river, that the usual steamers were unable to
bring their necessary supplies even to the trading-houses. One
white man from Asange came to me to get provisions, his own
being exhausted. In the afternoon of the 15th, while I was tak-
ing Mary to enjoy her bathing at the old landing-place at the
brook's mouth, my sister arrived, very sick, not able to walk
from the boat. She brought a mail, with bills of my expected
provision supply.
I sent Elder Abumba to the villages, to buy eggs and fowls
for my sister, at any price; and also, with a net, to try and catch
some fish. My principle against the use of tobacco caused me
much hardship; and, even ill-will among the natives. On my
journeys, I had to take a cumbersome supply of all sorts of goods
to suit the caprice of natives. Had I taken simply a 20-lb.
bundle of tobacco leaves (as others did) I would have had no
trouble or failure to obtain ; and, the natives would have been
better pleased. Without tobacco, I have given, under stress for
my child or sister, half-a-dollar for an egg. Abumba returned
with five eggs, no fowls, and three fish. My sister enjoyed the
fish.
On Sunday, the 18th. I had a bad headache, and could not
preach. Elder Abumba held a service.
By Monday, the 19th, my sister was much better. How Mary
enjoyed her bath in the river!
On Thursday, the 22d, sent Londo and crew in a canoe to
Kangwe. to get a missing box from the United States, of cloth-
ing for Alary, which I supposed to be lying at Lembarene.
Another white man from Asange sent to borrow some food. I
was able to spare, as I was expecting a supply ; and, I would, in
any event, share with those men ; for, they had been most gen-
erous to me in the matter of free transportation of myself and
family and goods. In the morning of Friday, the 23d, I had
6_>6 MY OGOWE
sent Elder Abumba in the Swan, to Njomu, to bring back Anye-
ntyuwa, whom I had permitted to visit her brother on the 21st.
She returned in the afternoon, the boat leaking badly, having
struck a sunken log. This was the beginning of the end of Mrs.
Nassau's pretty little boat.
EXCURSION TO BITAGA.
Mary's birthday fishing excursion had necessarily been delayed
by my sister's sickness. She being well again, the anniversary
was arranged for Tuesday, the 27th. We reached Bitaga about
4 p. m. My sister landed, and went with a few of her things
to the village, where a German trader told her that the water in
the lagoon was so low that the boat would not be able to enter;
and also that there were very few fish. Nevertheless, I suc-
ceeded in entering a short distance, and found a camp-ground
that w r as sufficiently good, though not equal to our former island
spot. I hastily discharged the boat, put up the tent, and sent
the boat for my sister, who however preferred to remain over-
night in the village. Shortly after our coming, Londo, in his
canoe arrived from Kangwe with the box supposed to contain
Mary's shoes. He immediately went out with his net; and, in
an hour, returned with fish. Early next morning my sister
joined. I, in my cot, with a net, had not slept well, being dis-
tressed by the moans of the children in their tent with Anye-
ntyuwa. (They had no net; I had supposed the tent sufficient.)
I borrowed them a net, for the following night. Fanwe came
to see us ; but, not as many as on former occasions. The day
was devoted to amusement. My crews were fishing, eating, and
sleeping: the two children playing, flinging stones in the water,
and sailing their little boats.
On Thursday, the 29th, amusements were continued. The
boy, Ombagho had become an unruly lad, troublesome, and even
disrespectful. 1 punished him; but, not sufficiently; and he con-
tinued his impertinence. In the evening, one of the men, in
going to the water-side, almost trod on a six-foot snake. The
two children had been playing on that path, and on that very
spot, only a short time before. My sister returned to the village.
Next morning, the boat was loaded up; and, with the usual stops,
we were at home comfortably, late in the afternoon.
On Saturday, the precious box being opened revealed the
needed shoes, a silver spoon, and other gifts from my uncle
Rev. Dr. S. M. Hamill and my brother-in-law, Rev. Dr. A. (Jos-
man. Ombagho continued his offenses, and 1 notified him of
THE TASK ENDED 627
dismissal. There were circumstances which made the case espe-
cially difficult, as he was a pet of my sister.
JOURNEY TO THE CHURCHES.
On Monday, September 9, leaving three men in charge, the
start was made late in the afternoon. Elder Abumba and wife,
and two in the canoe ; and my sister, and my family, with a
crew of six in the boat. Mary had had a cold for some days.
For the night, at Magenene, leaving most of the luggage in the
boat, beds were arranged in the house.
On Tuesday, the 10th, lunch was at a favorable spot in the
forest, where the children found vines from which to swing, and
roots on which to climb and sit. We were at Andende before
sun-down. Immediately sending my household to the vacant
Good house on the Hill, a long time was spent in sending loads
thither, and waiting for the carriers to return. Only two of
Mr. Good's people at Andende, Ndaka and Ogula, volunteered
to aid me. There was some confusion about the boxes of food
and bundles of bedding. Eating a hasty supper, I hasted down
to Andende, and at 9 p. m. went around the island, to the Ger-
man house, where were lying some of my new supplies. T
got from them milk and flour, for the needs of my household
during my expected absence down-river. The German clerk,
Mr. Korlany was very helpful. I was back again on the Hill
by midnight.
' On Wednesday, the nth, Elder Abumba went down-river,
to await my coming. As moderator pro tern., I wrote up, from
Mr. Good's notes, the minutes of his last meeting with the
Igenja session, and the roll of the Igenja inquiry class, so as to
be ready for session-work when I should arrive there.
On Thursday, the 12th, leaving some of my crew for service
on the Hill, I went, with a crew of only four. Mary was almost
petulant, in her desire to go with me, and, as she was not very
well, I started with an unhappy memory. At Aveya's, I made
plans with him for a gorilla-hunt in October. From Elovi,
Elder Yongwe accompanied in his canoe. After passing
Oranga, met a former employee, Re-Njogo, with a canoe-load
of fantastically-dressed women, going on a dance-excursion.
At Igenja, Elder Awora gave me a comfortable room and easy
bed.
On Friday, the 13th, morning-prayers in the church; visits
from former employees and their wives and children; receiving
gifts for the monthly concert collection. As eggs were almost
628 MY OGOWE
impossible to be obtained from the Fan we at Talaguga (unless
rotten), I made special effort to buy a supply for Mary and my
sister. Teaching- young people to spell ; and, with Elder Awora,
going. over the inquiry roll, to verify their names, their stand-
ing, character, and acceptability for baptism. Also, I studied
the minutes of the third church, to be ready for it. a few days
later. Late in the afternoon. Rev. Mr. Allegret, who was mak-
ing a journey of his own, came from Kangwe with a letter from
my sister, and " notes " from Mary and Iga. that somewhat re-
lieved my anxiety. At night, held a session meeting.
On Saturday, the 14th, continued the session meetings. I
offended some applicants by my position on a certain rule of
presbytery requiring ability to read the Bible (with certain ex-
ceptions) as a condition for baptism. They went away saying,
" Well, we'll wait for Mr. Good ! " I faithfully enforced the
rule. For. a native in a heathen village, in daily view of heathen
practices, where he or she was the only Christian, with no Sun-
day, no church, no ten commandments, without the Bible, had
only prayer as a means of grace : and, the probability of his
standing was small. But, with ability to read the Bible, the
means of grace were much enlarged.
I also declined to enrol in the class little boys and girls ; they
were too utterly under the control of their heathen parents to
obey any Christian life; they did not even know what "class"
meant, except that enrollment in it was a distinction. I refused
to examine for baptism, young men and young women of that
very place, who, alongside of Elder Awora's day-school, had
made no effort to learn to read. All this vexed them ; and. they
would not come to the afternoon prayer-meeting. (I still think
that their action justified mine.) But, I was rejoiced at the
return to the table, of my best and most devoted former em-
plovee Mamba, who had been under suspension, for intemper-
ance. But for that weakness. I would have made him an elder.
[He is still living; but, his love for liquor has been his un-
doing.] Elder Awora's wife's father was sick; he was a class-
member. On Sunday, the 15th. during the opening services in
the church, a wail was raised in the adjacent village over his
sudden death.
On Monday, the 1 6th. James, an employee of Mr. Good, came
with his wife Dombina; he wished to put her away, though he
admitted that he had no justifiable ground. And. another young
man. who had been summoned for an offense, came; but, ses-
sion had adjourned. I made a point with the people that
THE TASK ENDED 629
" church " was greater than business, and " session-meeting - "
greater than personal convenience. Women came in the after-
noon, stirred by my urging the duty of learning to read.
On Tuesday, the 17th, just as I was about to start, there
passed two steamers ; and I hoped for mail, but they shouted that
there was none. Stopped at several villages to teach members
of the class living there. And, the same at Oranga, where I
stopped for the night.
Spent Wednesday, the 18th, teaching class-members in the
villages. At Ngomu, where my hunter-friend Azaze followed
me from his old village, vexed that I had not spent the night
with him. At Aningo-arevo, the people were too busy with
their plantation-cutting, to listen to me. At Izyuwa, Elder
Ntyanga was not at home; but a young mother received us.
At " England," was not pleased with the dirty look of the place.
At Elovi, taught two lads ; but, the women did not think that
they could learn. There, a letter was handed me from my sis-
ter, brought by Agon jo. I still was anxious about my Mary,
though the letter said that she was well. Finally, established my-
self at Ovimbyano village, in Ambamani's comfortable house.
On Thursday, the 19th, wrote letters to my sister, Anyentyuwa,
Mary, and Iga, to have them ready to be taken by the messenger
whom I expected next day from Kangwe, with the communion-
bread. Also, wrote instructions to Licentiate Mbora, whom Mr.
Good had located down-river in the Nkami (Mbora's own) tribe.
Children and class-members came to learn to read. At night,
I sat up late reading the story in the Philadelphia Press, of the
terrible disaster of the flood at Johnstown, Pa. I could not
sleep for a long while, with thoughts of the drowned children
and the agony of their parents. I placed myself and my Mary
in their circumstances ! And, to this mental distress, was added
the pain of an eye-worm.
On Friday, the 20th, the three ruling elders came; but, there
was no formal meeting of session ; only an examination and
revision of the class-roll. Mr. Allegret joined me. Session in
the afternoon ; but, applicants few, and very ignorant. In the
evening, -the Kangwe messenger arrived, bringing also a mail.
Another session in the evening. Continued session, at intervals,
all day of Saturday, examining the applicants especially on their
reading. Was disappointed that, from the lakes, and other quar-
ters, people deliberately had stayed away, for fishing, or planta-
tion-cuttings, or mournings over sickness or death. Aziza and
her husband Ogandaga applied; but, she was still ugly-mouthed
630 MY OGOWE
about the fact of her sins of lying having been exposed by
Anyentyuwa.
On Sunday, the 22d, there was mourning in Elovi village over
a man near to death. Even the elders came late to church.
Had a long talk in the evening with Elder Yongwe about native
customs.
On Monday, the 23d, Mr. Allegret's boat started in advance
of mine. I rarely ascended the river's main branch. I pre-
ferred the smaller, called the Ajumba. I was at Kangwe Hill
by 4 p. m. ; and, reaching the hill-top, I entered the house un-
seen and unannounced. I came on my Mary suddenly, as she
was sitting alone in the parlor, crying. Her cry was changed
to a scream of joy. And, then I went with her to my old bam-
boo house, where we surprised Anyentyuwa. Next day, I was
busy entering church-records, and making up accounts.
I needed rest, on Wednesday, the 25th, but I had to write,
though interrupted by friendly visits from Messrs. Allegret,
Teisseres and Gacon.
On Friday, the 27th, took my sister's boxes around the island
to H. & C. house at Lembarene, for her return to Talaguga at
her convenience by steamer. And held church-session meetings
in the afternoon and at night. And. also, all day of Saturday.
At noon, a mail came. It contained an important letter to the
mission, from Secretary Gillespie, that required me to go at once
to Libreville for a called meeting of mission, in regard to the
Reading affair. An immense burden of duty was flung on to
me, as I was clerk of mission. And, I was having charge of the
two Ogowe stations ! What should I do? I must go to Gaboon!
But, how about my little daughter? I was not willing to leave
her, for weeks, with my sister, even if she were well enough to
undertake the work. So, I must take the child with me to
Gaboon! But all our clothing was lying at Talaguga, and I
must make a hasty trip thither for it. and also to inform the
young men I had placed in charge there for only one month,
that they would have to " hold the fort " for at least another
month. In the evening, I sent one of my men, Re-Mondo, to
the French house at Lembarene, to inquire whether their launch
Brazza was soon going up-river. He was so frightened by
hippos on the way. that he lost the letter, came back, and in his
shame, did not immediately report to me ! T had found that
I could obtain passage to Cape Lopez, on the Duala, of the morn-
ing of Thursday, October 3. I called my people together, and
asked them whether it would be possible for them to take me to
THE TASK ENDED 631
Talaguga on Monday, September 30, and bring me back on
Wednesday, October 2, making in three days a journey that had
always taken a week. The idea fired Elder Abumba with en-
thusiasm. He said " Yes." If I would go in a canoe rather
than boat, and take no baggage or freight of any kind, and give
all the eight men standing instead of short sitting paddles, he
would promise to bring me back in time. The plans, with Anye-
ntyuwa and the two children were exciting.
Sunday, the 29th, was a pleasant day, with a quiet communion
service. But, after the evening meeting, I was very tired.
Nevertheless, at night, I sat up packing the necessary food for
the next day's run.
RUSH TO TALAGUGA AND BACK AGAIN.
With very little sleep, I was up by 3.30 a. m. of Monday, the
30th, awakened my crew, and sent them with the few necessary
boxes to Andende, for Elder Abumba to load up in the canoe.
I followed two hours later, to see that everything was ready;
Anyentyuwa with the two children came clown soon afterwards.
And, we were off by the 6 a. m. sunrise, in high spirits, that
were somewhat dampened by our having to turn back for Mary's
jug of drinking-water, that had been forgotten by the same
stupid Re-Mondo. Finally, we were off by 6.30 a. m. With
the eight long paddles, over which the men bowed in wide
sweeps, and so little baggage, we made splendid progress. Hav-
ing eaten no breakfast, we stopped early at 10 a. m. for the mid-
day meal, on a sand-bar, near the Island " factory." And. then
made a thrilling run to Magenene, at Agon jo's house by 7 p. m.
In all, eleven hours of paddling, at the rate of. three miles per
hour against a 4-mile current. The canoe had flown. We had
been favored with no rain.
On Tuesday, October 1, taking Agonjo for a ninth paddle,
we were off by 7 a. m. Ate our noon meal with Anyentyuwa's
brother at Njomu; and, making only a short stop at Chief Nze's,
were at Talaguga before 5 p. m. ! A wonderfully rapid journey;
and comfortable, except that we four passengers were wet with
the water that had splashed over the low gunwales, and our
limbs were stiff by sitting cramped in the bottom of the canoe.
All was well at Talaguga. There were no ugly questions for
me to settle. At once, a hasty inspection of the premises ; then,
a busy paying of the month's wages ; then, supper ; then, evening-
prayers; then, my tired little child to be bathed by her devoted
nurse, and put to bed by her loving father. Then, I gathered all
632 MY'OGOWE
the clothing, etc., etc., needed for the expected stay in Libre-
ville, and Anyentyuwa packed them. I had memoranda to make,
and directions to write; and did not go to bed until long after
midnight.
1 was up at 4 a. m. of Wednesday, the 2d. And, we were all
ready, and off by 6 a. m. With only a stop at Chief Nze's, the
admirable paddling brought us to Agonjo's for our 11 o'clock
meal. There he landed ; but, 1 took in his place, the two lads
Njega and Adza. The wind opposed, making some trouble-
some waves. Nevertheless, our progress was good. I feared
some storm-clouds. But, we safely reached Andende before 7
p. m. Leaving Mary with Anyentyuwa for her supper there, I
hurried to the Hill, and ate with my sister, telling her the news.
Then, back to Andende, to change wet garments. And, we re-
sumed our journey again at 9 p. m. ; for, it was necessary to
sleep that night at the German trading-house, because the Duala
was to make an early morning start. We were there by 10 p. m.
(I retained with me, as attendants, Njega and Adza.) The
white man in charge had already gone to bed. It took me some
time to get him aroused ; he was not in a very good humor in
receiving us. In the increase of the number of traders, and the
growing sharpness of their competition in trade, something was
lost of the sense of fellowship which had distinguished the white
men of ten years previous. The German house had ceased to
transport without charge. There was a fare on their boats, and
a rate for lodging and boarding in their houses. (Later, the
other houses followed.) This was right, I was grateful for all
the liberality of the past; and, quite willing to pay for anything,
that would save me from my former exposed boat- journeys.
But, I regretted the loss in courtesy that followed the change,
particularly on the part of the Germans.
VOYAGE TO CAPE LOPEZ AND LIBREVILLE.
I arose by 5 a. m. of Thursday, the 3d, and awakened my com-
pany, hurried to collect our loose baggage ; and were off with
the Duala by 6.30 a. m. There was rain and wind and tornado
clouds, the real beginning of the rainy season. But, in the little
cabin, we were comfortable. So restful, after the previous six
days of rush and hurry and loss of sleep. 1 sat with the chil-
dren or read. Usually, the river-steamers did not travel at
night. But, the Duala had run so well, that when night came,
we were in the cross-creek Yambe connecting the Ogowe with
Prince's Bay at Cape Lopez; and the vessel kept on her way,
THE TASK ENDED 633
until we actually emerged into the bay. Then, she anchored for
a half hour, waiting for the tide to rise. At the earliest moment
that the pilot would allow, she proceeded slowly and carefully
over a long shoal with only four and a half feet of water. It
was exciting to listen to the call of the lead-heaver, as at any
moment I expected the vessel to strike, the while that he re-
peated, "43^2 feet! 4^2 feet!" We anchored safely at Manji
Point by 11 p. m., and, our captain went ashore. Next morn-
ing, a boat was sent for us and our goods, and we were ashore
by 7.30. at the German house, under the kind care of Mr.
Knoch.
During the days that we had to wait for some northbound
steamer to Libreville, there were visits to me by former and new
traders ; the arrival of steamers going south ; the departure of
river-steamers going up the Ogowe; watching the children play-
ing on the sandy beach; and seeing a tame young elephant at
the French house. One day, while Mary and Iga were making
a mud-house on the beach, a native standing by deliberately
pushed down the house with his foot. It was a rare act of native
unkindness. Perhaps, he thought that he was " smart." But,
I could not forget my child's tears. An ocean-steamer, Nubia
came in from the north, and passengers coming ashore mistook
me for a trader, and wished to buy absinthe.
Sunday, the 6th, was a quiet day, except for visitors coming
and going. No opportunity for any service with the white men ;
and, the native village was distant. Finally, on Thursday, the
10th, the ocean-steamer Coanza came in from the south. We
boarded her early in the afternoon ; and were off for Libreville
by 4 p. m. The vessel was small and crowded. And, the
crowd was a disreputable one, drinking and gambling. There
was no place where I could escape them ; for, on deck there was
rain, and the little saloon was redolent with liquor, tobacco-
smoke, and profanity. The only safe place for Anyentyuwa and
Mary and Iga was in their own small cabin. Even from there,
Anyentyuwa cairie to tell me that there was no key to the lock
of the door of that room, and that the steward had said that he
could not find it. With her knowledge of ship's white passen-
gers' dealings with native women, she knew w r hat that meant. I
went to that steward : and, very suddenly, he " found " the key.
He had deliberately lied; with evil intent. And I. in my berth
was cabined with a drunken man. I have never forgotten the
disreputable Coanza. The vessel, going at half speed the eighty
miles from Cape Lopez to Libreville, was at anchor by 8 a. m. of
634 MY OGOWE
Friday, the nth. Rev. W. C. Gault came in a boat for us.
Rev. Mr. Brier met and welcomed us on the beach; and, the
teacher of French, Mr. Presset, a Swiss, met us as we came up
the path to the Baraka house. After the confusion of finding
baggage; going to some trading-houses; resting; and reading a
very depressing mail, the day closed with hymn-singing with
Mr. and Mrs. Brier, Mr. Presset, and Mr. Reading.
Then, on Saturday, the 12th, began a three weeks' history,
which I will not detail ; for, it does not belong to my Ogowe days.
And, the memory is yet a shameful one, of amazing duplicity
and apparent courtesy. I still have only respect for Mr. and
Mrs. Brier. They were not unkind or discourteous to me or
Mr. Gault; though I knew that Mr. Brier was devoted to Mr.
Reading's cause, believing him to be the victim of an unjust
assault. How he could believe that, I can understand, remem-
bering that I had formerly been subject to Mr. Reading's hyp-
notism. Mr. Reading, our host, was bland and courteous, and
at table most entertaining. But, all the while, between times,
there were secret plots and conspiracies to induce the board to
retain him at Baraka. So apparently subsidized were all the
Mpongwe employees and most of the church-members, that none
of them (not even the elders) would salute Mr. Gault and me.
We were boycotted. Only two persons besides Anyentyuwa
sympathized with us, my good old Mrs. Sneed, the former
Liberian nurse of my two children at Benita, and " Julia Green "
a Bible-woman. Njivo, Mr. Reading's housekeeper, was en-
tirely under his control. But, daily, when she emerged from the
secret plots, her love for me asserted itself, and she betrayed
the plans of Messrs. Reading and Brier to her sister, who in-
formed me and Mr. Gault. In the called mission meetings,
Mr. Reading did not dispute Secretary Gillespie's official sum-
mons to return to New York ; he recognized it as imperative.
But, as to all other points of mission appropriations, arrange-
ments, and decisions, our meeting went only one way. I was
chairman, and, of course, had no vote. Mr. Gault would make
a motion, and, without a second, it would fail. But, all motions
made by Mr. Reading would be carried by the votes of Messrs.
Reading and Brier. The meeting was a wearisome parlia-
mentary farce of a constant 2 to 1. That 2 to 1 vote reversed
the mission's policy, and appointed Mr. Brier to commence a
station at Batanga. The only points that could not be voted
against were the two orders from the board, that Mr. Gault
THE TASK ENDED 635
should take Mr. Reading's place as treasurer; and, that the lat-
ter should go to New York to answer the charges made against
him. Until steamers should come, by which he and Mr. Brier
could go northward, and I return south, I had the companion-
ship of only Mr. Gault, my child, and her governess, and Mrs.
Sneed and Mrs. Green. I went to the foreign stores to obtain
better supplies than I could get in the Ogowe. With Mr. Pres-
set's aid, I tried to obtain from the French a deed for Anye-
ntyuwa of the premises on which her house stood. One day.
on the line of secret information, word came that, on the fol-
lowing Sunday, at the regular church services there were to be
farewell exercises, at which only Mr. Reading's " friends " were
to be admitted, and in which Elder Owondo was to praise Mr.
Reading and denounce me and Mr. Gault. Mr. Gault and I
wrote a note of respectful protest to Mr. Brier, deprecating the
carrying of personal differences into the pulpit. In the evening,
he called us aside, and, thanking us for our friendly warning, said
he would modify his plans. He was a good man; but, he was
being powerfully influenced. On Saturday, the 26th, Mr. Gault
took possession of the treasurership ; but, he called my attention
to the fact that, when he entered the office, he discovered that
Mr. Reading had removed all the books, bills, accounts, etc., of
his own official doings. On the Sunday, Mr. Gault and I sat in
the church, ostracized in a pew by ourselves; but, Owondo-
Eewis' proposed address was omitted.
On Thursday, the 31st, 'Mr. and Mrs. Brier, and Mr. Read-
ing with Njivo, left, on the Kisanga, to go to Batanga. The
latter went to be Mrs. Brier's assistant in her expected mother-
hood. Mr. Reading took a quantity of building materials and
workmen ; a site was selected in Batanga at the only safe land-
ing-place, Bongaheli, near the trading-houses, on ground by the
church, at the mouth of Luma Creek. There the mission-house
was erected; and also a neat three-roomed house for Njivo.
[Subsequently, after Mr. Brier's death, the station was removed
\]/z miles farther north to the present Ehikihiki ; but, Njivo's
house remained; and, later, with some additions, it became my
sister's " Evangeline " cottage.]
After those three weeks of unfriendly machinations, it was
such a relief and restful change, when Mr. Gault gathered us
in the Baraka sitting-room for family-prayers. On Sunday,
November 3, T preached both sermons, English and Mpongwe.
The audience was grood. An incubus seemed lifted. The
636 MY OGOWE
Mpongwes acted as if they had awaked from a dream ; and began
to recognize their Christian duties. But, I never forgot that
month of humiliation to which they had subjected me.
In the evening of Monday, Mr. Gault called a meeting of the
church-session, to consider Anyentyuwa's application for re-
moval of her ex-communication. He politely invited me to be
present. But, I declined. I had known too much of white
domination of the native elders at Gaboon. I wished her restora-
tion to be on her own merits, and not as a favor to me. Before
she went to the session, she told me that she was ready to
acknowledge the errors of her common-law marriages, but that
she would insist on her innocence of Mr. Walker's original
charge on which the session had suspended her seven years be-
fore. I urged her to say all that to the session. She did.
And, they restored her; thus, condemning themselves for that
cruel suspension. [She never married again; and maintained
her Christian character virtuously, in the face of much false-
hood, to the end of her life.] Finally, on Wednesday, the 6th,
the ocean-steamer Bonny came in from the north, on its way
to Cape Lopez. I was anxious to get back to my neglected
Ogowe. We gathered together our possessions, packing late
into the night.
RETURN TO CAPE LOPEZ AND THE OGOWE.
On Thursday, November 7th, we were up early, and goods
sent to the beach by 7 a. m. A half-hour later, with Mary.
Anyentyuwa, Iga, and the Fan we lads, I was at the German
house, where Messrs. Lubcke and Letz had very kindly offered
the use of their boats, one for our luggage, and one for our-
selves. We boarded the Bonny in style. Captain Glasscock and
the purser and doctor were very attentive. I felt almost lost
under the new sensation of courtesy and kindness. As the
Bonny entered Prince's Bay, next morning, Friday, the view-
was enlivening, of two other ocean-steamers, and (most fortu-
nately) the Duala. Air. Knoch took us ashore to his house.
On Saturday, the Qth, late in the afternoon, we all boarded the
Duala, After crossing the bay. the vessel anchored for the
night in Yambe Creek. And, on Sunday night, anchored past
Ngumbe.
On Monday, the nth, it was more than homelike, it was
thrilling, as we passed Igenja. Oranga, Elovi, and other places
to recognize, and to be given shouted welcomes by men, women,
and children ashore. We were at the Lembarene German
THE TASK ENDED 637
house by sunset. A native dug-out and a crew of eight Kru-
men were kindly given to take us to Kangwe. But, the dug-
out lay very low in the water, the current very strong, the night
dark and threatening. I did not think it safe. Going ashore
with my company, at the Aguma house landing, we walked
around the head of the island, to Eyenano town, where the dug-
out followed ns. My Mary attracted great attention. While
waiting for the Kru-men, a church-member, Ombega. politely
offered us a house for the night. But, in the quieter water of
the smaller branch, we resumed our journey; and, were at
Andende by 8 p. m., where Mr. Allegret gave us every kindness
of supper and beds. The next morning, we removed to the Hill
house, and adjusted ourselves.
On Wednesday, the 13th, I gave the French brethren an out-
line of the affairs at Baraka ; and went to all the trading-houses
on business, and to seek for towage to Talaguga. Late in the
afternoon of Thursday, the 14th, Mr. Deemin of Holt's, noti-
fied that the little Oviro would take me on Friday morning.
That required that we should be at his house overnight, as the
distance from Kangwe to Inenga, three miles, was too far to
be made in the morning. I hasted with our various baggage ;
and, with only five crew, a long time was occupied in sending it
to the Andende boat-landing. Finally, with my household, I
left the Hill at 8.30 p. m., and made the start from Andende an
hour later. The night was dark, the current strong, and five
oars were weak for the Nelly-Hozvard. Njega, holding a lan-
tern over the boat's side, to light the way, fell asleep, and lost
the lantern. We did not reach Mr. Deemin's until 10.30. But,
he received us very cordially, and gave us the best of his lodg-
ing.
The next day, Friday, the 15th, we were early on board the
Oviro, our boat being towed. Mary felt at home; for, though
the vessel was small, she could move about, and was not con-
fined to one spot, as in the boat. Near Ngwilaka, Mr. Wheeler
of Asange was taken on board. He had been held captive by
the Ngwilaka Fanwe, but had just escaped. Stopping for the
night at Fura, opposite Nkogo, we slept ashore at a Mpongwe
trader's house. And the following day, on the Oviro, were
landed early in the afternoon at our home ; whither my sister
had returned during my absence. There was much that was
new to be seen and told of in the happenings during my ab-
sence of more than two months.
On Sunday, the 17th, there were no Fanwe at chapel. But,
638 MY OGOWE
two canoe-loads of them came, just as we were dispersing; and
Elder Abumba addressed them in the prayer-room. Then, there
were several busy days, entering memoranda of the previous
three months ; opening boxes of newly arrived supplies ; enter-
ing accounts ; repairing houses and paths. Mary was not well ;
she was cutting some lower molar teeth.
On Sunday, the 24th, there were thirty Fanwe present at
chapel. While we were at services, the Duala came with a hogs-
head of freight. She did not whistle for me, as she would have
done on other days. The captain sent it ashore to my boat-
landing. I left it lie there until Monday morning.
My sister had decided that, when, in the end of December we
should go to Libreville for the annual meetings, she would close
her work in the Ogowe. She was packing her goods, and I
was sending them, on passing vessels, to Kangwe or Lemba-
rene, to await there our own coming when I should make my
church-tour in December.
On Wednesday, the 27th, spent some time on the hillside,
with Mary, in her mother's cottage, putting the kitchen in re-
pair, and gathering Avocado pears and mango plums from the
trees I had planted. But, I had to cut down my original palm-
oil tree (the very first at Talaguga) which had grown too near
the kitchen.
On Saturday, the 30th. the Falaba anchored ; and Mr. Allam,
General Agent of H. & C. came ashore with Mr. Gacon. Some
of my sister's trunks were sent off. Mr. Gacon inspected a site
for a saw-mill. After ten years of effort with Secretary of the
Board Lowrie, and refusal by him. on the ground that industrial
work in foreign missions was too secularizing; I had continued
my efforts with his successor. Secretary Gillespie, who admitted
the desirability of industrial work, but required that I should
obtain the co-operation of the entire mission. Mr. Good pre-
vented that. So. Mr. Gacon and I. on our private responsibility
and with our own funds decided to build a little saw-mill, utiliz-
ing the water-power of the mountain brook. [Later, he built a
dam that gave a good power, by which a circular saw was run,
and boards were actually made.]
On Sunday, December 1. a collection of over fifty people in the
chapel. During the week, I was looking ahead toward the end
of the year; gathering clothing and supplies for the tour of the
churches, and thence to Libreville; and arranging for the work
and food of those T should leave in charge during my absence.
On Sunday, the 8th, there were only two or three Fanwe at
THE TASK ENDED 639
morning services. But, there were many at Sabbath school.
In their canoes, they had come from down-river, for sales and
purchase. Of course, they did not know the days of the week.
Finding that it was " God's Day," they remained, for the sake
of Monday morning; and, in the meanwhile, pleased their curi-
osity by coming into Sabbath school.
I had a serious conversation with Anyentyuwa : The going
away of my sister would leave me in an unprecedented situation.
In the civilization of America, a widower or bachelor may live
in his home alone with an unmarried woman, his housekeeper;
there is no suspicion of immoral sexual relations. And, Mrs.
Grundy makes no remarks. But, in the heathenism of Africa,
there are many Mesdames Grundy. It was to be assumed, by
the natives, that any man and woman, living alone in the same
house, were " man and wife." A very easy assumption in
a country where " marriage " existed without ceremony. I
studied the points in my situation. ( 1 ) I believed that I was
called of God to Africa, and that nothing but ill-health would
justify my leaving, even temporarily. I was not in very ill
health. (2) Earlier missionaries had left the work, fearing that
their little children could not live in Africa. I had proved that
they could ; and, I had stayed, with my little child, at my work.
(3) I had solemnly promised my wife, in 1884, that neither she
nor I should part with our expected child (as I had done with
my former children) during its infancy. That promise was as
sacred to me as any I had ever made to God. I would as soon
have denied Him, as break it. " Infancy " continues to the close
of the seventh year. Mary was only five and one-half years.
(4) 1 was a soldier. As faithfully as the boy who
" stood on the burning deck.
Whence all but him had rled."
whose story had enthused me in childhood, I would stay by Tala-
guga until I was relieved by the mission that had sent me there.
It was wrong that Mr. Brier had been taken from me. But, I
knew no other duty than to remain at my post. (5) While my
sister was with me. the presence of Anyentyuwa in my household
as my child's governess, was not suspected of evil. But, now that
my sister was going, what should 1 do? Should I retain A-
nyentyuwa ? ( a ) I knew what the heathen would think. They
would assume that she was my " wife." They suspected all
missionaries; and, would not have felt hurt if their suspicions
were true. So, I did not care for their judgment, (b) I knew
640 MY OGOWE
what the traders would say. Some of them had their native
mistresses, held more or less openly. We had rebuked them.
Now, would they point at me? Yes, probably. But, only in
rude joke. They knew and respected me ; and they would knozv
that their unkind joke was a lie. So, I disregarded them, (c)
All the native Christians knew and believed in me. None of
them would doubt me ; though a few at Gaboon, who were jeal-
ous of her, would gossip; the while in their hearts they knew
they were false, (d) I did not think of the possibility of any
suspicion being entertained by my mission associates.
So. I said all this to Anyentyuwa, and asked her whether she
intended to leave me. Her answer made her, for me, the noblest
living woman of that time: "I know, Dr. Nassau, more and
better than even you do, what people will say of us. To those
who, as a solution of the situation, will expect you to ask me in
marriage, I will say that I would not marry you even if you
should ask it. Not because I would not feel honored by the
relation ; but, out of respect for you. I know perfectly well the
American hatred for my race. You would be ostracized by your
own relatives. But, I will stay with you. I love Mary ; and,
you cannot take care of her, alone. People may say what they
please. Some of the missionaries cannot say of me worse than
they already have done, though I am again in the church. I
think it will be a service to God, if I can be of some aid to you.''
With my memory of those noble words, no one will doubt that
thenceforward, to the end of her life (fourteen years later) no
woman, white or black, more than she, represented to me, the
highest mark of truth and virtue. And, when a fatal disease
made her incapable of supporting herself, T gave her an annuity,
and built a pretty little house in which she could comfortably
die. For this, I was criticized. I only replied that, while I
valued the respect of my fellow men. I placed a prior value on
my own self-respect. I would have despised myself had I done
less for the lady who did so much for my child in my year of
need.
TO KANGWE.
On Monday, December 9, Elder Abumba was to go with me,
for his duty in the Igenja session. But. he was to return imme-
diately to Talaguga, as one of those in charge while I should be
in Libreville. With his canoe, and a kongongo load of my sis-
ter's property, and my own boat and crew, with my sister; Jane,
wife of Gasita; and Mary. Anyentyuwa and fga, starting just
THE TASK ENDED 641
before noon, and escaping a threatening storm, we were at
Magenene for the night. The next day, we reached Andende,
by the middle of the afternoon. The French gentlemen all
happened to be absent at the Lembarene houses. There was the
usual long time in having our many pieces of baggage carried
to Kangwe Hill.
TOUR OF THE CHURCHES.
On Thursday, the 12th, everything seemed to go crooked. I
had risen early, in order to have all baggage ready; but, my
crew were slow in coming to carry the burdens to the boat at
Andende. And, an ugly discussion arose, at the very last, with
Ogula, Air. Good's trusted native assistant. I, too, had trusted
him, placing in his care, some of Anyentyuwa's cooking utensils,
in a house, of which he had the key. Those utensils she found
in use, in one of the men's kitchens. Who had taken them?
And, why? Among some of the tribes, it was allowable for any-
body to use anyone's tools. But, the " upper " tribes (Mpongwe,
etc.) resented that use by an "inferior"' (Galwa, etc.) tribe.
Anyentyuwa resented it. I, too. resented it; for, she was a part
of my family; and, he had broken my trust in him. I could
have forgotten the matter, if Ogula had been truthful in his ex-
planation of it. But, he was not even respectful ; he was in-
solent. I never was able to recover confidence in and respect
for him ; though he became a Licentiate, and is living to-day,
useful in the Ogowe churches. And, Anyentyuwa herself was
trying, that day. She was always trying on journeys and special
occasions. The excellent lady and devoted friend had only one
fault. But, it was a fault that always tries me in plans with
others. She was never ready. I was always ready, in advance.
She always had something to be done just at the last. Yet,
when done, it was wonderful how efficient she was the remainder
of the journey.
Finally, leaving my sister on the Hill, I was away with my
company. My hope was that we would eat our noon meal at
Wambalya, the home of some of the crew; thus they would have
an opportunity to see some of their relatives. But, the diffi-
culties of the morning had left an evil spirit. They were slow.
We ate in the forest. Then, when I did stop at W T ambalya to
land Gasita's wife, four of the crew jumped ashore to see their
people. They were so long in returning, that, for the last one,
I pushed off without him. (He followed, with Elder Yongwe,
later.) The day was threatening with clouds; but, we reached
642 MY OGOWE
Igenja, before rain fell. Elder Awora was sick, and had failed
to prepare places for us. His two companions Mangiarina and
Daniel, were not hospitable to me, and gave us very poor huts.
Besides being poor, they were apart, making it necessary for
Mary and me to separate. The room in which we ate our sup-
per was open on one side. Rain and wind beat into it ; and a
pest of winged ants came in clouds attracted by our light. I
thought over the discourtesy and unkindness that gave me and
my child such poor entertainment, while good lodging in closed
houses, with kerosene lamps, and other comforts, had been re-
served for my crew; for the expectation of Mr. Allegret (who
was not coming) ; and for Elder Yongwe. I went to bed de-
pressed with the annoyances of the day.
On Friday, the 13th, I rose early, and sent word to Elder
Abumba and my friend Mamba, in their village, a few hundred
yards distant, asking that they provide me better lodging than
I had in Nkolo. Then Mangiarina and Daniel, with apparent
astonishment, asked my reason for leaving them ! I sharply
rebuked them, and left. I never knew the reason for their treat-
ment of me. Perhaps, because I did not follow Mr. Good's
precedents ; perhaps, because they disliked Anyentyuwa's supe-
riority. I never could divest that village, of that unpleasant
memory. Elder Abumba and Mamba gave us every considera-
tion. Eggs, plantains, iguma, fowls, etc., were brought for sale.
Mary had a fat little baby to play with. Visitors gathered in
from Oranga. At night, a small audience in the church ; and
afterward a session-meeting.
Saturday, the 14th. was a continuously busy day: Church-
session all morning; writing up records; receiving and recording
church contributions (not cash) ; buying for myself, until 4
p. m. ; when preparatory service was held. In the evening, a
wild pig had been caught in a trap; I bought a leg for two bars
of soap. Public meeting at night, followed by session.
On Sunday, the 15th, in the morning, there were two adult
baptisms. Anyentyuwa partook of the communion ; the first
since her restoration. In the evening came a storm that pre-
vented any service.
Before leaving, on Monday, I went to see sick Elder Awora.
He. in shame at the manner in which I had been treated, prom-
ised that he would have an addition built to his house for my
special accommodation, before my return at the next quarter.
With stoppages we came to " Liverpool " for the night. There
were very good quarters in Oselowe's house. I had promised
THE TASK ENDED 643
the crew, that I would save them the trouble of discharging the
boat, if they would agree to guard the goods by sleeping in the
boat. They agreed. But, they broke their bargain; and, late
at night, I had to have them carry all the luggage to my hut.
The next day, on to Lambe; to a Fafiwe town ; and, to Oranga,
where I would stop, fearing a coming storm. But, just then,
in my desire to buy senjele dried fish, which were for sale at
Azaze's new village, in the mouth of the lake-exit, I ventured
to first go there. Delayed by the bargaining for the fish, we
were caught in the tornado at its worst, as we re-crossed the
river. The boat's canvas canopy, that was our constant protec-
tion from sun, became a great danger, and had to be rapidly
torn down. Like a sail, catching the wind, it would have cap-
sized us. Then, we had to sit in the driving rain, which was
terrifying with the incessant thunder and lightning. Mary was
thoroughly frightened. Arrived at Oranga, Simbuve gave us
good quarters ; but. we were uncomfortable for lack of dry bed-
ding. So, we remained there all the next day, the 18th, washing
and drying clothes. Mwanyeno, one of Mary's former atten-
dants, was there ; and the child found pleasure in renewing ac-
quaintance. My hunter friend Azaze came to see me. And, I
had time to write up session documents.
The following day, Thursday, the 19th, resuming the boat;
while at our meal in the forest, a French gunboat passed up.
When, later, I reached Izuwa village of Elder Ntyanga, of the
third church, to consult him on church matters, he had gone,
summoned by that gunboat, for the settlement of a difficulty of
one of his people with some Bakele. At Ovimbyano we were
well located in Ambamani's house.
On Friday, the 20th, Aziza was there, and came to tell me of
her husband Ogandaga's unfaithfulness to her. Elder Re-
Montigo brought applicants for the inquiry class, and for bap-
tism. On Saturday, the 21st, the elders were so late in assem-
bling, that our session meeting was hurried. At the close of the
afternoon preparatory service, a storm was coming up ; Mary
came to me in tears, alarmed lest her governess, who had gone
visiting at the other end of the village, should be caught in it.
It was a long time before my little girl outgrew the fear in-
spired by the Oranga incident. Many cases of discipline, and
of examination for baptism came in the evening. Too late;
session had adjourned. I had been waiting for them two days.
That they came at the last hour seemed to me to show lack of
interest.
644 MY OGOW'K
On Sunday, the 22d, the entire morning was dark and lower-
ing and cloudy. But, I was not sure whether the darkness was
caused by clouds, or by the eclipse of the sun that was due that
day.
, On Monday, the 23d, our start was delayed by a wordy quar-
rel which Aziza precipitated on Anyentyuwa. The former was
attempting to fulfill her threat of a year previous, to have " a
fight " with the latter. I had no interest in the discussion. Nor
would Anyentyuwa degrade herself by a public quarrel. But,
she defended the statements she had made at that time, as to
Aziza's untruth. With slow pulling, we did not reach Andende
until near sunset. And, it was 7 p. m. before I, the last of all,
finally reached the Hill house.
The next day, there were errands at the Lembarene houses ;
especially to inquire as to probabilities of some steamer that
would take us to Cape Lopez for Libreville, not before Monday,
the 30th. so that I might be free from anxiety and uncertainty
in attending to the church services of Sunday, the 29th.
Wednesday, the 25th. The only notice of the day was that
we had a duck for dinner.
On Thursday, the 26th, with Mr. Gacon, I went to all the
trading-houses, taking to the German a number of my sister's
boxes prepared for the United States, and to settle accounts for
the year. Mary wished to go, and came as far as Andende
landing. But. when she saw some threatening clouds, she pre-
ferred to go back to the Hill. At the German house, it was fi-
lially decided that the Duala would wait for me and my company,
until 5 a. m. of Monday, the 30th. So, I felt at ease to arrange
for my Sunday services. At Holt's, there was a crowd of
Faiiwe who had been making disturbances on the premises.
Mr. Deemin had four little puppies, my story about which, when
1 told Mary on my return, made her regret that she had not
braved the thunder-cloud and gone with me. Session meetings
were held on Friday, the 27th; but. there were few applicants.
On Saturday, the 28th. after the afternoon preparatory service,
there was held a congregational meeting, at which. Paul Agonjo.
who had brought his letter from the third church, was elected
a ruling elder. In the evening, he was ordained and installed.
For Sunday, there were the usual communion services.
Three adults were baptized. At night. I was quite sick with
headache, and retired early, after gathering together a few last
things for the next day's journey. I slept: but not soundly; for,
I was afraid to oversleep the hour for the start to Lembarene.
THE TASK ENDED 645
In all my Ogowe life, I never had an employee, however other-
wise good, on whom I could depend to awaken me at an early
hour for a journey. / always had to shorten my sleep, or lie
awake, in order to arouse the crew and superintend the loading
of the boat.
TO CAPE LOPEZ, FOR LIBREVILLE.
Monday, December 30th. The hour for us to be at the
Duala had been named as a favor. Therefore, I was bound not
to delay the vessel. I was awake at 2 a.m., dressed; awoke
the entire household; and began to load the boat. I had hoped
to start at 3.30 a. m. as an hour was required for the row
around the island ; and, then, time would be needed to ship our
baggage; of which my sister had a good deal. But, there were
delays; at the very last, Mr. Gacon (who was to return the boat,
to Andende) could not find his needed lantern. Off, by 4 a. m.
The morning was not very dark ; but, it was a sad hour for my
sister. It was the closing of her ten years in the Ogowe. Two
of her special friends, Agonjo and Mamba were with her. We
were at the German house by exactly 5 a.m. But, apparently,
no one was awake, either on the Duala or ashore. My arrival
however aroused them. And, the vessel was off by 6 a. m., with
a large number of native passengers, a full load of its own trade-
produce, and my sister's goods and effects. All the way down-
river, in passing villages where she was known, or where there
were her former pupils, she was seen, as she stood on deck ; and
there were repeated good-by salutations. By 8 p. m. we had
passed through the Yambe cross-creek, into Prince's Bay; and
anchored, ready to cross the bay, as soon as tide was sufficiently
risen. Then, the vessel safely went over the shoals, under the
light of a half moon ; and, finally anchored near the German
house. Then, I lay down in the wheel-house ; but, I did not dis-
robe.
The little dining-room had been given up, as a " ladies' cabin " ;
there slept my sister, Anyentyuwa, Mary, and Iga. They were
late in vacating the room, on morning of Tuesday, the 31st, for
the cook to spread breakfast. After breakfast, we all landed in
my sister's Evangeline. And, Mr. Knoch welcomed us. Two
Frenchmen, a doctor and a sergeant with a force of forty lap-
tots, for service in the Interior, had been lodging at his house.
But, Mr. Kuhtz found the manners of the sergeant so offensive,
that he had refused him further lodgment, though he allowed
him still to come to the table. At noon, while we were at the
646 MY OGOWE
table, an incident occurred. The sergeant's negro servant came
to the open door; his master noticed him, and the servant re-
plied, " I've got it." Presently, the sergeant left the table,
and followed him. I thought nothing of the incident, until,
later in the afternoon, I was told a horrible story: That ser-
geant had commissioned his servant to obtain for his sexual use
a native female, specifying that " it " should be a young girl.
The man had gone into the villages, with money in his hands.
And, heathen parents had " rented " to him their little daughter,
a child of about ten ; he had taken her to a room in a house near
the Post; had locked the door; and then had come to notify his
master. That master left our company at the table, went to the
room, and attempted to assault the child. Her screams drew
the attention of men near by, both white and black, who broke
into the house, and rescued her. When I heard that fearful
tale, I went to Mr. Knoch, and told him I would not eat with
that man at the same table, but would wait and eat at the chil-
dren's second table. Mr. Knoch too was indignant at the affair,
and sent word to the sergeant not to come again to his table.
When the man came to remove his luggage, Mr. Knoch re-
ported to me that, he had said that if I were a younger man,
he would challenge me to a duel, for the insult of my refusal to
eat with him !
On Wednesday, January 1, 1890, Captain Uzarski, Mr.
Kuhtz, and Mr. Deemin, celebrated the day by going hunting
out on the prairie. They returned next day, very tired, but suc-
cessful in the capture of a wild ox ; of which they gave a hind-
quarter to Mr. Knoch, and he shared with us. The Duala left,
heavily-laden, to go up-river, taking as passengers, the two
Frenchmen and their forty soldiers. My bill with Mr. Kuhtz,
for the passage from Lembarene of us four adults and my sis-
ter's freight, was $40. He made no charge for the two chil-
dren, nor for our attendants, Gasita and his wife Jane.
On Friday, the 3d, Anyentyuwa and Jane were having a
washing-day; they seemed to be very much amused at their
tubs. I went with the two children along the wide beach toward
the Post, where the water shoaled very gradually. There. I
allowed them to bathe. To be in water was one of Mary's
greatest happinesses, from her infancy. There were sharks in
the bay. Their bodies were not seen, but their dorsal tins were
distinctly visible as they moved from place to place. They could
not have come near shore over the shoal. So, it was safe for
the children, while I stood by, and watched the position of those
THE TASK ENDED 647
fins. In the afternoon, Mr. Knoch sent his seine farther up the
bay. I disrobed, and went into the water, to help drag the net.
I worked hard, bathed long, and swam somewhat; so that I was
rather tired in the evening. We were anxiously waiting for
some steamer. Absence of work or responsibility was some-
thing strange to me, after my years' cares at Talaguga and the
three churches. On Saturday, Mr. Knoch asked me to hold a
religious service in his house the following afternoon. It was
a very unusual request on the part of a trader. My sister was
feeling better; and, she had some singing with Mr. Deemin, she
playing on her baby organ.
On Sunday morning, the 5th, I went with the family, to the
Orungu village, a mile distant. The walk was a pleasant one,
along the beach, the tide being out. I preached. But, the peo-
ple showed a stolid indifference. Those were the heathen who
had " rented " their little daughter. In the afternoon, about 3
o'clock, I had Service in Mr. Knoch's house. But, it was in-
terrupted, both in the beginning and at the end. Just as we were
getting ready, a sea-turtle was brought for sale. The excited
curiosity of the two children was shared by most of their elders.
Turtle is very fine eating! During the meeting, the Jeanne
Louise arrived from Nazareth Bay; and, I shortened the services.
By Tuesday, the 7th, the daily watching for a steamer was
becoming trying to my sister, who was not well enough to amuse
herself, as I (though anxious about my delaying the annual meet-
ings) was doing. But, the children were having a happy play-
time. At the cape, the anchorage for steamers was good.
Though the beach shoaled very gradually, it then suddenly sank ;
so that vessels could anchor very near to the shore; and, there
were no rocks. Ordinarily, the water was very smooth and
quiet. But, storms raised large waves. Two French gunboats
started across the bay to go to Lembarene. A fierce gale of
wind came, just after they had safely crossed. I sat on the
veranda with Mary, and watched the waves pile themselves on
the beach, only a few rods from us.
Late in the afternoon, a Mr. Hervy, agent of the French
firm of Daumas & Co., kindly gave me and Alary a ride on the
bay, in his sail-boat. It was something new for me to have a
sail-ride. Almost all my boating on the Ogowe had been done
by oar or paddle, where I was always the anxious master. That
day, I was an irresponsible guest.
On Thursday, the 9th, early in the morning, the Elobi was
seen coming in. Went off to it with Mr. Knoch. It was going
648 MY OGOWE
up-river. There was such uncertainty about any expected
steamer that could take us north to Libreville, and, considering
that we had already been waiting ten days at the cape, I engaged
with the captain, that I would wait five days for his return from
Lembarene, when he would be going to Libreville. This farther
delay of five days was the only chance that was known, for
getting away from the cape.
Next day, at noon, an English steamer was seen coming in.
The French customs boat, Mr. Deemin in his boat, and Mr.
Knoch and I in the Evangeline, all went oft" to make inquiries.
It was the ocean-steamer Cameroons, Captain Clancy; on his
way to Libreville ! I was in a dilemma. I had promised the
captain of the Elobi to wait for him. But, that very afternoon,
my sister was taken sick again ; for her sake, I decided to go on
the Cameroons. At once, we sent some two dozen pieces of my
sister's freight. She did not expect ever to return to the Ogowe,
and was removing her furniture, etc., for storage at Libreville,
ready for future location.
On Saturday, the nth, early, our baggage was sent on board,
and we followed with our parcels, escorted by our kind friend
Air. Knoch. I took with me a live sea-turtle, as a present for
the Baraka table. Anyentyuwa remained at the cape, waiting
for a steamer to take her south to Sette Camma. ( When the
French officer there, in the spring of 1888, had so cruelly or-
dered her to Libreville, for trial on the false charge of theft, she
had not had time to collect wages due her, nor to gather goats,
fowls, and other property she owned. And, after her vindica-
tion and release by Governor Ballay from an unjust imprison-
ment, she had immediately come to me in the Ogowe. Now,
she wished to go to Camma to claim her property.) But, there
were tears at the parting; and, after the steamer started, Mary
continued crying for her " Ma Janie " ; she said that she " felt
lonely." I gathered a rug and a pillow on the deck; and there
she and Iga forgot their sorrows in sleep. There were some
unpleasant fellow-passengers ; the offensively bold Portuguese
Ignace, who had been the real thief, for whom Anyentyuwa had
suffered ; the Frenchman Louis Dunot, always strangely watch-
ing; and a conceited assistant in an English-Loanda astronom-
ical expedition. Was disappointed that the vessel failed to reach
Libreville that night.
I had no pleasant memory of the Cameroons or its captain.
Tie had not been at all courteous. But, on anchoring on
Sunday, the 12th, he provided a crew for my company in the
THE TASK ENDED 649
Evangeline. And, he sent ashore all of my sister's baggage,
later.
The Mary-Nassau was entering the harbor, at the same time,
having come from Benita with Rev. Messrs. Allegret and Teis-
seres, who had been inspecting Bolondo station there. It
brought also the native elders from the northern churches. It
was the first view Mary had of her mother's memorial " ship,"
since she was old enough to remember.
A month was spent at Baraka, attending to various businesses,
while waiting, after the close of the mission and presbytery ses-
sions, for some steamer to take us back to the Ogowe. In the
former days, I had been independent, and used to return in the
Hudson to Nazareth Bay, and thence up-river in my own boat.
But, with my Mary, I would not take that exposure. Presby-
tery sessions began on evening of Tuesday, the 14th. On Sun-
day, the 19th, I preached in English, and Rev. Ntaka Truman
in Mpongwe. He scandalized the pulpit and the day by a per-
sonal attack on Rev. Mr. Ibiya of the Benga tribe, Corisco, who,
on the preceding Sabbath, had denounced the sins of Mpongwe
people. The next day, presbytery warned the native brethren
against personalities in the pulpit.
On Tuesday, the 21st, the Eboe came in, and I went off with
Mary, to make inquiries as to the vessel's probable movements.
A white child was a rarity on the coast, and she was much no-
ticed. On Thursday, the 23d, presbytery adjourned; and, I
set to work, as stated clerk, to write up records. On Saturday,
the 25th, at sunset, I went to the German house, to inquire after
the health of Mr. Letz, who had been sick; and, found that he
had died only an hour previous ! I was very much distressed
that I had not called earlier on my kind friend.
On Sunday morning, I preached in Mpongwe. Mr. Letz's
funeral was at sun-down. With a memory of his kindness to
us all in the Ogowe, my sister had made a wreath of flowers ;
and, in the church, Mary advanced from a pew with it, and laid
it on the coffin in front of the pulpit. Lieutenant E. F. Dom-
ville and Air. F. W. Ainy, from the Magpie of the British navy,
in port, were at the funeral, and invited us to visit the vessel.
Next day, while I was taking a walk with Mary, we met those
two gentlemen; and they repeated their invitation. But, we
found no opportunity to accept it.
I do not know what had given Mary a feeling about blood.
On February, the 1st, I was telling her the story of " The
650 MY OGOWE
house that Jack built." Her only remark was, " Did the blood
come out " of the dog when the cow tossed him ?
During the following days, I was sick with fever. On
Thursday, the 6th, I took a walk with Mr. Presset and the two
children to the Plateau Botanical Garden, hoping to get some
plants for Talaguga. But, the florist was not in his office.
For the first time, Mary saw guinea fowls.
RETURN TO THE OGOWE.
Finally, on Friday, February 14, the Falaba was ready; and
I and my company went on board ; bidding my sister good-by
on the beach, and leaving her in Mr. Gault's care, for an ex-
pected steamer to England. One of the French teachers, Mr.
Lesage, was also on board the Falaba. As soon as we emerged
from the estuary on to the ocean, the water became rough; and,
Alary was soon suffering with nausea. By tea-time, both chil-
dren were asleep from exhaustion ; and, we all three were so
sleepy and uncomfortable, that, without disrobing, we went to
sleep in the room which the general agent, Mr. Allam, had given
us. Gasita's wife, Jane, was not of much use.
The next day, the sea was still rough, with opposing wind;
and, poor steering by the Kru-man at the wheel. Captain John-
son was sick almost the whole voyage. But, he was very oblig-
ing in giving Alary milk and cakes whenever she wanted. She
did not seem to care for the bread that kind Mrs. Sneed had
sent with us. Iga and I ate that.
The following day, Saturday, the 15th, we entered the Ogowe,
having fortunately met it with a high tide. Where we anchored
at night among the mangroves, the mosquitoes were bad, and
got inside our nets. I had undressed the children, but kept on
my own clothing for emergencies. On Sunday, the 16th,
stopped for a while at Angala ; and, then on to ftango, where
we waited all the afternoon for the coming of a Nkami pilot.
On Monday, all feeling better. The children were excited see-
ing hippopotami near the steamer. By night, we were near
Ngumbe, Isagi's place.
Xext day, in passing Igenja, the captain obligingly whistled,
slowed, and took on board two of my people. Anchoring for
the night at Oranga, I saw my friends there, among others,
Simbuve and Etendi. The next morning, the latter and his
wife, and two other of my people joined me. It was pleasant
to be recognized as we passed the villages, after our two months'
absence. The steamer was at its Aguma (Lembarene) house
THE TASK ENDED 651
by 4 p. m. But, we had to wait. I had hoped that Mr. Alle-
gret would have had the mission-boat waiting for me, as it was
known that the Falaba would arrive that day. I sent one of my
men to run around the head of the island, and shout across the
river to Andende. An hour and a half later, Mr. Allegret came
with a boat ; and, with a portion of our belongings, we reached
Andende by 7 p. m. Rain was falling. Mr. Carmien gave some
of his school-boys to carry our baggage to the Hill. Etendi
made tea. Jane warmed water for Mary's bath. We had our
supper. And, the place was not as lonely as I had feared. As
Mr. Good had not returned from the United States (though I
had no charge of the station) I was still in care of the churches
and their Bible-reading work. I arranged for the employment
of Elder Yongwe, Candidate Ogula, and Re-Nyiko in that work.
On Sunday, the 23d, preached in the morning; and held Sab-
bath school. The good little girl Iga was, for some reason,
troublesome, and told me a falsehood ; for which I rebuked her.
She felt the rebuke very much, and cried bitterly, longing for
her mother. She had been kindly cared for; but, I had not
appreciated how she was missing her mother. In the afternoon,
about 5 p. m., a note from Mr. Deemin saying that the Oka
would tow me the next day if I was on hand by 8 a. m. I told
my young men ; and they all promised to be up early. After the
two children were asleep at night, I gathered my goods and food
for the journey. But, I did not sleep soundly.
TO TALAGUGA.
On Monday, the 24th, I was awake at 1 a. m. And, afraid
to go to sleep, I only dozed until 3 a. m. Then, arose; dressed;
called the men; sent the boxes to the boat; later, awoke Mary.
And, near 6 a. m., left the Hill, sending in advance the two chil-
dren with Jane, and some Fan we with the last bundles. (Only
by such methodic arrangements did I succeed with people who
had no estimate of the value of time.) We were at Inenga in
advance of the appointed hour. But, as the favor was to me, I
was not willing to be late, even five minutes. When we finally
started, the Gaboon was ahead of us, and the Duala behind.
During the day, we passed and were passed by them several
times. Besides my boat, the Oka had in tow a heavy surf-boat,
whose tow-line parted, and delayed us some time. And, just
before anchoring for the night, the Oka ran aground. The ves-
sel was very small. So, I slept with the children in the stern of
my boat, that was thatched with a little covering.
6 5 j MY OGOWE
The next day, Tuesday, the 25th, we reached Talaguga, by
middle of the afternoon. I was suffering' with diarrhoea. A
half-hour, after all goods were safely landed, a tornado came up.
I was glad to be at our home, after more than two months of
confusion. And, so was Mary. I immediately put all her play-
things into her aunt's vacant room. That, thenceforward, was
her own playhouse. The house looked somewhat empty, as,
during our absence, Messrs. Allegret and Teisseres had been
there, and had removed furniture they had bought of my sister.
Then, there were busy days, of putting away baggage, settling
accounts and paying wages, Londo's expenditures during my
two months' absence, were very economical. But, a little canoe
of Mary's had been lost by one of the men. We heard that it
was at Njomu. While Londo went there to get it, Elder
Abumba (for, I was still too weak) opened boxes of new sup-
plies. In one, I found a package of mint-drops for Mary; this,
and the return of her canoe made her very happy. The child
Iga was a pleasant little girl ; but, she was full of life and pranks.
At Libreville, I had placed her in the care of Mrs. Sneed. But,
now, at Talaguga, in my care, I could not control her. She be-
came a distress to me; for, she misled Mary. When I paid the
four, who had kept the premises, their three months' wages on
the 27th, they felt so rich, that they were extravagant in the
articles they selected in pay.
I placed Elder Abumba in charge of evening-prayers (besides
the Saturday village visitations) until Anyentyuwa should re-
turn; as Alary needed me to remain with her, for her bath, her
prayer, and the singing to sleep that had been my role since her
infancy. I was well again; and everything was going on ami-
cably ; but, I felt lonely, when I came at night to sit down by
myself.
On Sunday, March 2, Fan we, in all, some thirty, came to
chapel. Among them, was my sister's former school-girl,
Bilaga. Pawa taught in the Sabbath school. And, at evening
monthly concert, I told my household about the international
movement for the suppression of African slavery.
I missed Anyentyuwa's tactful control of the children. T al-
lowed Mary to have all her extra dolls to play with, on condition
that they were not to be taken out of the house. Then, at Iga's
solicitation, she took them to the kitchen. I pitied the child
Iga ; she was lonely for her mother ; but, she was an anxiety to
THE TASK ENDED 653
me, by her waywardness. I could not understand why it was
that some days she was good, and other days not.
Tuesday, the 4th, was a " good " day. Sent Mary with Jane
on a visit to Pawa at the cottage. And. Iga gave me no trouble.
And, at evening, Mary remarked that herself too had been " a
good girl to-day." On Thursday, the 6th, Bilaga came to see
Mary, and played with her awhile. Both the children happy
and behaving well.
TOUR TO THE CHURCHES.
On Monday, March 10, there were the usual arrangements
with Londo and those I was to leave with him in charge of the
premises during my expected month's absence, and packing food
and clothing for myself and Mary. And, the usual necessary
stoppages at certain villages. One was at Njomu, at Antyuwa's,
to leave with him his niece Iga, until our return. I had little
or no difficulty with my own child. But, I had been unable to
control her playmate', two years older than herself. In a canoe,
was Elder Abumba going for his duty in the Igenja session.
The night was passed at Bible-reader Agonjo's. The next day,
with no stops, except in the forest for our noon lunch, we were
at Andende by middle of the afternoon. Leaving most of our
baggage in the Andende baggage-room, I went to the Hill-house
alone with Mary. Messrs. Lesage and Allegret were away on
an excursion to Lake Azingo, and Mr. Gacon was at Libreville.
Mr. Teisseres kindly loaned me a mosquito-net; for, mine was
broken.
On Thursday, the 13th, started the crew early with Mary's
and my baggage, for the boat at Andende. When I followed,
to start at 8 a. m., Mr. Teisseres advised that I go up around
the island, and down the main stream, for the possibility of
Anyentyuwa being on the expected Falaba. But, I risked miss-
ing her; and chose our usual quicker way down the Ajumba
branch. In my haste, I had forgotten a box of soap needed for
purchases, and had failed to leave the key of the Hill-house with
Mr. Teisseres. Fortunately, I met a young man. an employee
of Mr. Allegret's. on his way to Kangwe; with him, I sent back
the key. And, when I stopped for lunch at Aveya's, I sent one
of my men across river to Elder Yongwe at Elovi, requesting
him to send of his people messengers to Kangwe for the box of
soap, and to delay his coming to Igenja one day, so that he and
they with the soap could follow me on. Friday. I was in no
haste. I allowed Jane and others to go to Ovimbiyano to see
654 MY OGOWE
their relatives. When I followed with the boat, I did not go
ashore. The air was hot ; and I sat in the protection of the
thatch over the stern of the boat. The crew pulled well, when
we resumed our way. , So, we were at Igenja by 5 p. m. The
new house, which I had authorized Elder Awora, three months
previously, to build for me, was completed. It was small, but
clean, convenient, and had a good view of the river. I kept my
eye open for any steamer, if perchance Anyentyuwa should be
on it. Only half an hour after our arrival, I observed a steamer
coming up stream, and it anchored for the night near the town.
I pulled off to it. It was a French gunboat. When I told the
captain my errand, he said that when he was at Cape Lopez, the
German Ella Woermann had come in from the south, and he
had seen a woman land from it, and going ashore to Mr. Knoch's,
to await passage to Lembarene. (Of course, government gun-
boats did not carry passengers.) I felt sure that that " woman "
was Anyentyuwa. I knew also that the Oviro was at the cape ;
and the Frenchman said that it was expected in five days. I
returned to supper, to evening prayers, and to put to bed my
sleepy little girl. Pawa was quite attentive to her. In Elder
Abumba's village (of course without his control) rum had been
brought for the final ceremonies of closing a mourning; and
there were loud singing and quarreling until after midnight.
On Friday, the 14th, busy with the usual receiving of visitors,
teaching candidates, and preparations for session meetings.
Late in the afternoon, in the face of a threatening storm. Elder
Yongwe safely arrived. In evening, held a session-meeting.
Members of the class, desirous of passing examinations, hung
about the door, to overhear what questions were asked of appli-
cants.
On Sunday, the 16th, there was no disturbance from rain, or
noise in the villages, nor any passing steamer. At the morning
communion, there were five baptisms, three young men and two
women. And, at the afternoon service, two infants; a son
of my friend Mamba, and a daughter of a former employee,
Angeka.
On Monday, the 17th. the crowd dispersed; people from other
places going to their homes, even though it was a rainy day;
Elder Yongwe, to itinerate in the lakes ; Elder Abumba to go
back to the care of the services at Talaguga. Later in the day.
as I thought rain had ceased. I started up-river, stopping at a
few places to see former friends. One was Apoyo. Piere's wife.
Rut, rain came again; and, when I stopped for the night at
THE TASK ENDED 655
" Liverpool," everything in the boat was wet. The village also
was wet and uncomfortable.
The next day, Tuesday, the 18th, I kept a sharp eye for the
expected Oviro. We were at Oranga by the middle of the after-
noon. Before 5 o'clock, that vessel came in sight. Going off
to it in my boat, I found Anyentyuwa. She landed immedi-
ately; to the great delight of my little girl. I had not yet dis-
charged the boat ; I hurried to put everything to rights before a
coming rain. Sat up late, listening to Anyentyuwa's story of
incidents during her two months' absence.
On Wednesday, the 12th, was delayed by the loss of a rudder-
pin, and had to use a paddle as a rudder. There were signs of
storm ; thunder and lightning, wind and rain following us. The
crew pulled admirably. In advance of us there also was rain.
But, by a great Providence, we kept between the two; the wind
died down ; and we reached Ambomani's at Ovimbiyano without
being wet at all. On Friday, the 21st, Elder Re-Montigo ar-
rived ; and session meeting was held. Arranged with Ambomani,
that he should build an out-station for Bible-reader Ogula, whom
I had directed to leave Kangwe, and come to the third church as
local teacher and evangelist. The three elders were late in
coming for session. People's curiosity and boisterousness at the
door was so great as to annoy our proceedings. In the after-
noon, preparatory services. Afterward, continued the session.
But, the noise of the applicants at the door was so great, that I
declined to work under such a lack of solemnity; and we ad-
journed. And. there were no additions on Sunday, the 23d.
On Monday, the 24th, I took into my service, as Anyentyuwa's
assistant, a young girl, Xantye, betrothed of one of my em-
ployees, Re-Mbendambya. Though the crew pulled well, the
river was high, and current strong against us; and, we did not
reach Kangwe (old-landing) until after 8 p. m. Messrs. Alle-
gret and Lesage with the school-boys and lanterns thoughtfully
awaited us at that unusual spot. (A very happy experience,
to be azcaited at Kangwe!) A portion of our goods were car-
ried up the Hill. With the remainder, I went on, to store them
at Andende. I finally was at the Hill by 10 p. m.
On Tuesday, the 25th, went with Mary and her governess
in my boat to Inenga, at Holt's, to get the latter's luggage,
which had been brought by the Oviro. Also, there was a large
quantity of skins of wild animals which I had authorized
Anyentyuwa to buy at Sette Camma, from a Mr. Drake, Holt's
agent there, as a present for my dear brother William, of Bur-
656 MY OGOWE
lington, Iowa, who had offered his house as a home for my child
when I should finally leave her in the United States, for her
education. He was a noble man, and a beloved physician. By
his loving offer, he had smoothed for me one of the hardest
places in my life.
On Wednesday, the 26th, Anyentyuwa, Jane, and two young
men had a big " washing-day " over Mary's and my accumulated
soiled clothing of the journey. And, I was busy writing up the
third church minutes. On Friday, the 28th, busy holding ses-
sion meetings ; and making arrangements with the Bible-readers.
Those meetings were continued next day; with the usual after-
noon preparatory service. And. communion was held on Sun-
day.
BACK TO TALAGUGA.
I had sent to Andende, on Monday, most of my luggage, to
have it ready for the next day's journey. On Tuesday, April
r, I started the crew down to the landing, for them to load the
boat. Then, leaving Anyentyuwa. Mary, Jane, and the house-
boys to follow. I went myself to hasten the loading. (At the
coast tribes, I had had good boat-captains who would load with-
out me. But, in the Ogowe. I never had a boatman, however
good otherwise, who would attend to the job without my pres-
ence.) On reaching Andende. I found that the job had not even
been begun ! Such experiences were very trying on patience :
particularly as I liked to avail myself of the cool of the morn-
ings, for an early start. Finally, started with a crew of eight
paddles, and the boat crowded with passengers and luggage.
The river was risen high. Stopped for dinner in the forest,
where, years before T had preferred, but latterly had not done
so, because of the Fanwe near it. But, they had removed.
My objection to eating near them, was not at all for any fear of
danger; but, because (of all the tribes) , they were the most rude
and offensive in crowding about me as I ate. Before sunset,
we stopped at Island " factory." on invitation of its new occu-
pant. Mr. Bates. T felt quite at home there, remembering the
former days with John Ermy.
Next morning. Mr. Bates' hospitable breakfast prevented an
early start. Tn the afternoon, there was a storm. I dreaded
the wind ; the thatch house over the boat's stern, necessary for
Marx's protection from rain, caught the force of the wind, and
made the boat careen. So, T kept in shore until the wind calmed ;
and then crossed the river to the Osamu-'kita (left) bank. Be-
THE TASK ENDED 657
fore reaching- it, another rain came. In passing that place, a
German trader politely hailed us, and invited us to stop for the
night. But, I went on to Mbomi, where was a new house, of
Holt's firm, just finished for a trader, Mr. Harrington, who had
not yet occupied it. But, the native in charge offered to open
it. and I felt on such free terms with the Holt firm, that I saw
no impropriety in accepting, especially as another rain was fall-
ing, and I wished to protect my child. I took possession of two
rooms, had my cook prepare supper, and had just sat down to
the table, when he heard a little steamer come to anchor. It
was the Oka. And, Mr. Harrington himself landed with his
goods, to begin to occupy his house ! I felt disconcerted ; but,
Mr. Harrington was polite in understanding the situation, and
joined us at the table.
On Thursday, the 3d, in passing the homes of the two Fanwe
lads who had gone with me to Libreville, Adza desired to land
and see his people, but Njega preferred to go on with me.
Some of my regulations with my crew were almost military.
Cleanliness I insisted on, accepting no excuse. The common
practice of the natives, as to their dishes after eating, was to
leave them unwashed until they were needed for the next meal.
I required that no unwashed vessel should be put into my boat.
Otherwise, it would soon have become filthy. After our noon
meal, one of the crew put his dirty bowl into the boat. I
promptly broke it.
On stopping at Erere-volo by sunset, Njega. was afraid; for,
those people had had some difficulty with his family. I tried to
assure him; but, he hid himself in the stern of the boat, and
stayed there with the four whom I had left to guard it, while
all the remainder of us occupied the deserted trading-house
ashore. The head-man, Magamaga, was very attentive; and,
I held religious services.
Before reaching Njomu next day. met a canoe with three
white men. who informed me that, in passing Talaguga, they
had been told that one of my men there was very sick. This
made me anxious not to delay long at dinner at Njomu; where,
of course, Iga was rejoiced again to have her mother. We did
not reach Talaguga until after dark, though the crew, on the
last mile, had put on a splendid spurt with their eight paddles.
The boat flew, even against the swift current. On the way, two
miles from Talaguga. I saw the rare sight of the moon rising
over Talaguga mountain. I had never before happened to ar-
rive at that time of night in that stage of the moon. It was an
658 MY OGOWE
exceedingly beautiful sight. We were all glad to reach our
home. Mary forgot the fatigues of the confinement in the boat,
and vented her feelings in a romp on the veranda. I found that
the sick man was Elder Abumba.
Two canoes, one from Igenja, had overtaken me near the end
of our journey on Friday, and had been selling their produce
to me and the Fan we on Saturday, and were to take sick Abumba
to his Igenja home on Monday. I supposed that they would
have been interested to get their relative away for medicine,
more promptly, and was surprised at their delay.
I was building a new workman's house, on the site of the
first old hut I had erected in March, 1882. And, was planting
young trees which I had obtained from the Libreville Botanical
Garden. In making entries into my diary, the review impressed
me strongly as to how hard a tour it had been, with the river in
flood, the rainy weather, the boat crowded with goods and peo-
ple, and the need of special protection of my little daughter. I
was glad to be at our house ; and all the assistants at work in
their places. Except, that I missed the evangelistic aid of Elder
Abumba. But, I advanced to the itineration work, another em-
ployee, Monkami.
Now that Anyentyuwa was settled again, the arrangements
for Mary, which had been somewhat desultory, were made more
regular. Hitherto, I had thought that a child's sleep should not
be broken; but, now, I arranged that, if Mary was not awake
when I left our room to go to the morning prayer out at the
prayer-room, Anyentyuwa should come and waken her, and
have her dressed in time for breakfast. As to lessons, there had
been nothing regular or systematic. I daily told her stories ;
and, there was the regular night Bible-story and song or hymn,
with which she went to sleep. And, she had picked up the al-
phabet herself from her play-blocks (the very first letters of all
were those she followed with her finger of her mother's name
on the tomb). But, now, I arranged a little spelling-lesson
every day at 2 r. m. before her going out to play on the lawn at
the east end of the house, where Iga and she had great fun with
her new dog " Puck," an English fox-terrier.
I regretted that I had Re-Mbendambya's betrothed, Nantye.
Other assistants for Mary, however incompetent, were at least
clean. This young girl was false, lazy and filthy. But, I re-
tained her, not for any real aid that she could be to Mary's
governess; but, for her young man's sake, that she might obtain
some civilization.
THE TASK ENDED 659
Anyentyuwa's role, while my sister was with me, though a
decided one, was a distinct one. Her control over Mary was
complete, but, she was restricted to that one duty. She had no
share in the household arrangements. Now, I placed her also
as housekeeper. As such, the house, my table, and the servants
were under her direction. And, she began a very needed house-
cleaning. It was a great advantage for her comfort, in her
position at Talaguga, as compared with the conditions under
which Handi had worked, that there were frequent visitors of
her own relatives, or of other members of the Mpongwe tribe,
trading in the Ogowe. Her uncle Ongamu was still in the
river. And, on Wednesday, the 16th, came Papa, a very nice
woman, wife of her relative Antyuwa. On Monday, the 21st,
Papa closed her visit; and, with presents and the good-will of
all, I sent her with a comfortable canoe and crew to her husband
at Njomu.
Rev. Messrs. Allegret and Teisseres at Kangwe, had finally
completed their plans of their Interior journey, in an inspection
of the Kongo, as a field for a possible location of their proposed
mission. In the evening of Thursday, the 24th, on the Oka,
they slowly passed the house, on their way to Asange Post,
having their goods for their long journey. In the evening, I
announced two dismissals : Nantye's faults had become intol-
erable; and Orumbo-ngani, for the rare and daring offense of
having opened a letter addressed to me, which had been sent
ashore from the Oka.
The next day. as my little canoe started down-river with the
two delinquents. I went up-river in a large canoe, a large crew,
and Mary. Anyentyuwa and Iga to Asange. to say good-by to
our excellent friends, Messrs. Allegret and Teisseres. On the
way, stopped to eat our lunch in the forest. Just as we were
finishing, some Fanwe women came on the path, and envied our
rice. I was never able to understand the Fan we character, in
their curiosity and envy of white man's food. Their reasons
could not have been hunger ; for. they had the same opportunity
for plantations that other tribes had. When I ate in villages
of other tribes, though there were always some rude ones who
wished to stare at our eating, they were promptly ordered off
by the better class of the town. But. in Fanwe villages, they
simply would not leave, even on my order. (Had their passion
for eating, some connection with their cannibalism?) At the
Post, we were politely received by Rev. Messrs. Allegret and
Teisseres, Teacher Lesage, Chef de Poste Du Val, M. Gazengel,
66o MY OGOWE
and the commander and lieutenant of the government gun-
boat, Basilic. We were quite interested at the sight of a young
boa-constrictor in a cage.
On Saturday, the 26th, a messenger from Chef Du Val came
for a loan of milk and axes. I was glad to be of service to our
French friends; for (barring Kerraoul's amazing conduct in
1884) they had been invariably kind to me.
On Sunday, the 27th, the Basilic passed down, and did not
stop, though the commandant had intimated that he would, to
inspect the premises. I was pleased that our Sunday quiet was
not broken.
I had placed Okendo temporarily in Elder Agonjo's place at
Magenene. He came for his month's pay on Monday, the
28th. bringing with him Adza and Ngwa (returning), and a
new one, a young man, Ngiye, from Akuri village, who wished
employment, and who also professed to be an inquirer. On
Tuesday, the 29th, a large government canoe brought Mr.
Lesage from Asange. He wished a canoe and crew to take him
to his school-work at Kangwe. He professed that he had not
availed himself of the Basilic, because of its Sunday travel. I
approved of that ; but. was agreeably surprised that he felt that
way; for, the French Protestant teachers came to us with the
European continental-Sunday point of view. I made him as
comfortable as the house, its food, etc.. could display; and gave
up my time for his entertainment. Okendo left; and, I sent
with him the lad Njega, who was failing with some lingering
disease. Sometime before, I had observed his strange conduct,
and made the mistake of supposing it was stupidity and laziness,
and had rebuked him for it. T was in error. The poor lad
was really sick. T had hoped that he would come out as a
Christian. He died, later; and. T had. from what I heard, a
Christian hope in his death. Next day. as six of my people were
sent in the canoe with Mr. Lesage, the remaining company was
small.
On Thursday, May r. 1 was busy, as stated clerk, in copying
minutes of presbytery to send to Synod in the United States.
House-cleaning having reached the "parlor" sitting-room,
Mary was happy in being allowed to think she was helpful in
the scrubbing of the floor. Her taste for dabbling in water!
On the following day, the former school-girl Bilaga made a
visit, and remained to help in digging the peanut garden; which
was quite a play for Mary and the household servants. They,
with Anyentvuwa, were at it all the morning.
THE TASK ENDED 66 1
On Sunday, the 4th, Nyare's widow Nyamba and some other
Fafiwe were at chapel. Two of my household, Ngwa and
Ohwa-sango asked to be enrolled in the inquiry class; the latter
seemed to me very unworthy. And, next day, two others,
Ampamba and Odimbo-suka surprised me by asking for bap-
tism. The latter seemed to me lazy and indifferent.
In the rear of the house, there was a steep grass-covered piece
of ground, with a descent down to and under the house. Nail-
ing together two barrel staves with cleats, I made rough sleds,
which Alary and Iga used with frantic enjoyment for sliding
down that hill. Those " toboggan " rides were a frequent
source of exercise and fun. Londo, whom I had sent as cap-
tain of the canoe with Mr. Lesage, returned, with a large mail,
and with two monkeys, a present to Mary from Mr. Lesage.
In the mail was a letter from Provost Pepper, of the University
of Pennsylvania, requesting me to gather for the university an
African Ethnographic collection. [This I did. and presented
it to the university, when I reached the United States on a fur-
lough in May, 1891.]
JOURNEY TO THE BAMBOO-SWAMP.
Thatch could be bought at any time, and stored. But, the
palm-fronds, used for rafters that were to be broken over the
ridge-pole of a house, had to be used fresh and green. Need-
ing some, and requiring all my men, I decided, on Thursday,
the 8th, to close the house, leaving only two men, and go myself
with the family. At Njomu, leaving Anyentyuwa and the two
children with her brother, I went with the men into the forest;
and, at the swamp, divided them into squads. Then, I returned
to Antyuwa's ; and, as the grass and branches on the path were
now sun-dried I called her and the children to come and see.
Arrived there, she sat and sewed; they played; and I read and
rested, as the men sang in their enthusiastic competition of their
squads. It was almost like a picnic. The cutting and carry-
ing to the village was completed; and, we returned to Sika's
late in the afternoon. And, all went to bed; tired, but happy at
the day's success.
On Friday, the 9th. started Londo with his load, up-river.
But, I remained with the family, in Monkami's canoe until the
afternoon, for Anyentyuwa to complete her visit with her
brother. Less than an hour after starting, a rain came on, near
Mpoko-njonga. A Galwa canoe is a very unsafe thing in a
storm. Stopping in the forest until the wind should subside,
662 MY OGOWE
the children and Anyentyuwa could be protected by the one
umbrella and the usual travel-rugs. The rest of us took the
rain. When the storm passed, we proceeded. Though the
crew pulled well, I was chilled by the time, after sunset, when
we reached home. Hurried for a warm supper; and excused
the men from the evening, as rain was again falling. Anye-
ntyuwa was saddened by news of the death of four Mpongwe at
Libreville, in an epidemic of la grippe. One of them was the
man Xjalele. at whose trading-house I had often stopped at
Erere-volo; two others were her relatives, one of them her half-
sister Laura.
One of the almost daily jobs was the protection of the house
from the invasion of white ants. Other annoyances were ac-
cepted in the ordinary course of events ; they happened ; and they
passed. But, the fight against these ants was never ended.
That was the weariness of it. They were harmless to ourselves.
But, they ate wood and all products of vegetable fiber; that
meant our books and clothing. They lived in dampness and
darkness of the ground. But. at night, climbed up the hard-
wood posts, on which our dwellings were erected, to eat our
pine floors, our libraries, and our boxes of clothing, etc. Daily
watch was to be had on those posts. After each journey, f
found them in the house; they had evaded the inspection of
those I had left in charge.
On Tuesday, the 13th, 1 had seated myself to write an im-
portant letter to my son Charles, but was interrupted again and
again; workmen coming for direction about their jobs: Mary
asking for amusement ; and then Anyentyuwa deciding that she
must go to her sister's mourning. Mary's governess was re-
markable for having divested herself of all superstition. But,
to some of the customs, she still clung. All natives expected
to go to a family mourning. And, " families " were so exten-
sive in their consanguinities! Our household servants were
constantly going away on such calls of " duty." It was of no
use to refuse. If they remained, they were sullen and useless.
The only persons who did not yield to that " duty-claim " of
their employees, were the foreign traders. They had their as-
sistants under contract, and the men stayed; for. their trade was
at stake. The funeral was long past ; she could do her mourn-
ing when we went to Libreville six months later at the close of
the year. But. if she must go, I wished her to go at once by
first steamer chance; and hurry back in time to help me in my
THE TASK ENDED 663
quarterly tour of the churches in the end of June. So, she con-
cluded to remain until December; and, I was greatly relieved.
Later in the day, there was excitement in the pursuit of two
Eaiiwe, who not only were trespassing on the premises, but actu-
ally were shouting in a hunt. Outrages of that kind had been
frequent in the earlier Talaguga days; and, I had been patient.
Latterly, my rights had been respected. My Gal was joined me
in a pursuit of the two men; and, had they been caught, they
would have been given a flogging.
On Wednesday, the 14th, when I left my bedroom, and was
passing through the sitting-room, on my way to ring the 6.45
a. m. prayer-bell, I met cook Etendi, who excitedly told me that
young Abumba (no relative of the ruling elder) had left his
box of goods in his (Etendi's) house in the night, under sus-
picious circumstances; that he had examined the contents of the
box, and had found what he believed were goods stolen from
me. As Etendi's room lay on the way to the prayer-room, I
went through it, and saw the box there. I said nothing. After
breakfast, 1 called Etendi to his room, and inquired all the cir-
cumstances. Then, I summoned Abumba, and told him my sus-
picions. He said that there was nothing wrong about the box.
I demanded, if that was the case, that he open it in my presence.
He hesitated, and said that he had not the keys, that Mbigino
had them. On summoning Mbigino, the latter said that Abumba
had the keys. Then, he yielded, and opened the box. I found
certain of my goods, of which I took possession. But, amaz-
ingly, he denied that he had either stolen or lied! However,
when I went away with the goods, he admitted that on Sunday
afternoon, when I had excused him from Sabbath school on his
plea of toothache, he had climbed by a plank into the storeroom
through an open window, and had stolen. It was usually safe
to have that window open ; for, it was high above the ground ;
and. it was only a rod from my study where I could see it.
And, it was desirable to have sunshine come in to keep goods
from dampness. But, it should not have been left open when
I was away at Sabbath school ; though, I never imagined that
any of my own people would rob. There had been small thefts.
Even good Etendi, I had suspected of appropriating food in the
kitchen. (But, cooks, the world over, do not think that that is
" stealing.") An hour later, a passing canoe on its way down-
river, was hailed, and young Abumba was dismissed. I was
much cast down by this revelation. A heavy rain came, and,
m,, MY OGOWE
there being no thunder or lightning, Mary was happy in being
allowed to race out-doors in her bath clothes, under die pouring
drops. She was improving in her spelling.
I regretted that all semblance of a school should disappear
with tny sister's departure. So, though 1 bad always kept up
a desultory instruction for individuals, generally in an evening
hour, I began a regular lesson (following my lesson with Mary)
for Monkami in the afternoon, giving him explanations to his
reading of the Epistles, for use in his Saturday itinerations.
I also began to gather insects, etc., etc., as an entomological col-
lection, for the University of Pennsylvania, inciting my own
employees and other natives to bring me all new specimens which
they found in their works or on their journeys. Mary was very
well those days; she was rapidly improving in her lessons; and
was growing heavy physically. (She bad always been slight.)
On Tuesday, the 20th, had a talk with Monkami about young
Abumba's recent stealing; from which, J gathered, that it was
probable that there bad been other stealing a year or more before,
of which I bad not been aware. The occasional presence of a
wild animal at night made me careful about allowing the cbil
dren to play out of doors in the evening. I had never forgotten
the leopard on the night preceding Mrs. Nassau's death; and
the leopard al Mrs. (iood's Mill bouse. During those days, a
"bltsll-cat" (genet) killed one of my chickens. The genet
would not attack a human being; but, it belonged to the leopard
family; it was something to be avoided.
Paii we came from Njomu, in afternoon of Thursday, the
22i\, to remain overnight, not trusting (for that purpose) the
other clans farther up rivet. I gave them good quarters.
( Ever since my light with Nyare, in 1883, the sanctity of my
premises, as a place of refuge, had been fully recognized and
used.) One of the women bad an unusually clean little baby,
to which she bad given the name " Nasa." (I newer consented
to the use of my name, when parties asked permission; so, some-
times, it was done without permission. I bad two reasons, for
my refusal ( 1 ) if the child grew up disreputable, I did not wish
disgrace to the name, (2) even if it grew worthily, I did not
wish the demands that would be made <n me for frequent gilts. )
( )n Sunday, the 25th, many I'anwe at chapel. In the even
ing, Anyentyuwa gave me interesting recitals of what she bad
known, when she was a I'araka school girl, of vacation school
pranks, | These, and similar narrations, which she gave me
some years later, I published in t<;if, under the title, " Tales out
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THE TASK ENDED 665
of school."] In the daily war with white ants, I found that
they had outwitted me, and had reached the attic in Anye-
ntyuwa's room. At once, a thorough search was made for their
base of approach under the house; and clearance was made of
a pile of rubbish. There were found the remains of a duck
which had been missed four months before, and also part of a
snake skin. The latter explained the loss of the former.
Notwithstanding- care and forethought in making my semi-
annual orders for provisions and supplies, there was frequently
some article on which I " ran short." For missionaries on the
coast, e. g., at Libreville, such wants could almost always be
supplied from the many trading-houses there ; for, they kept a
wide range of articles. The houses at Asange kept an abun-
dance on only a limited range of articles. Starch was not one
of them. I needed starch. Anyentyuwa, in her resourceful-
ness, said that she could make some. I bought a quantity of
the cassava roots; she and the children had a merry time grat-
ing them on big improvised graters, in a tub of water. The
starch grains precipitated; and my needs for washing-day were
supplied.
Some two weeks before Saturday, September 31, Anyentyuwa
had told me that she had a premonition that a certain Mpongwe
man was dead. She was not superstitious ; but, on several occa-
sions she had given me similar instances of clairvoyance. That
a Mpongwe man should be dead was nothing strange. But, the
remarkable part of the story was that she said she saw him sur-
rounded by several white men, in a very clear vision. This day,
came the news that Komanandi was dead at Duala, Kamerun.
after a flogging by white men, in the jail. (He had been an
elder in the Gaboon church, at the time of Anyentyuwa's excom-
munication. She knew, and he knew that she knew, at that very
time, that he was living an immoral life. He finally abandoned
the church, went into trade, committed some crime, was jailed,
flogged, and died.) *i
On Sunday, June 1, just as we were going to chapel, th
Eclaircur appeared on its way down, whistling steadily. This
was so rare that I felt that the occasion was important, and sent
off a canoe. It came back with the surprising news that Air.
Teisseres was on board, and that he " would soon return " from
Kangwe! Where had he come from? And why? Wherefore
this early return from the Kongo? And, where was Mr. Alle-
gret ?
On Thursday, the 5th, Mr. Teisseres, on his way to the Post,
666 MY OGOW'R
in a Kangwe canoe, stopped to take dinner with me. He
brought me Kangwe news, among others, of the marriage of
Mr. Carmien. The canoe, on its return from the Post, next
day, reported that Mr. Allegret had just arrived from the In-
terior with a sick Frenchman ; and, that, in their descent of the
rapids, their canoe had upset, and all their goods were lost.
On Saturday, the 7th, my Fanwe friend, Nje-Ntula, of
Xjomu, whom I had " trusted " for thatch, and of whom I had
been complaining for his slowness in paying up, honestly fin-
ished his debt. I immediately " trusted " him with $30, for
1500 more pieces, and gave him a present of $5.
TOUR OF THE CHURCHES.
On Monday, June 9, starting at noon, with my family in the
boat, and cook Etendi in a canoe, there was the usual stop near
Njomu. Farther down, the children were electrified by the
sight of some large hippopotami on a sand-bank. At Ongamu's
( who had left the government service at Asange, and who was
trading near Abange Creek) we enjoyed an igczcu of fish with
the rich oily pa nut. Before sunset, at Magenene. I was pleased
with Okendo's attentions, about fire and other points of hospi-
tality, greater than had been Agonjo's.
Xext day, the crew pulled well ; and we landed at Andende,
l>efore 5 p. m. Mr. Gacon at once met me with a distressing
story of his troubles with Mr. Lesage. Felt depressed, in hav-
ing at once to meet and try to settle the troubles of these two
white men. the while I had so much to contend with from the
natives. In the evening, Mr. Lesage sent me a note, asking for
a private conference. When he came, he said that he wished to
close his service at Kangwe. I did not know the merits of
either side, and did not wish to interfere; but, the conditions
were so bad, that I gave my prompt consent.
I awoke on Wednesday, the nth, with nausea and headache,
and had bilious vomiting all day. Mr. Gacon also was taken sud-
denly sick. We both were in bed. Mr. Lesage was continu-
ing arrangements for his departure, and tried to induce the
native teacher. Xdaka, to desert and go with him to Libreville.
This, with Mr. Gacon's accounts of Lesage's evil doings, even
if they were exaggerated (which probably they were), made
me anxious to have the latter go. The evil spirit of quarrel be-
tween the two men spread itself to the school-boys: and they had
a fight, out in their yard. I was distressed about how and when
my church-journey should be made; for, I did not like to leave
THE TASK ENDED 667
Mr. Gacon alone, while he was sick, especially while his enemy
Lesage had the range of the house.
The confusion between the two men continued. Mr. Lesage
vacillated about going; he called Mr. Gacon opprobrious names.
I interfered quietly. And, shortly afterward, Mr. Lesage left.
Both Mr. Gacon and I, though better, were still weak. But, I
prepared for the next day's journey. I had planned to go down
the " back creek " to a place, Longwe, that had been on my pro-
gram, as a locality for organizing a fourth Ogowe church, on
the occasion of my presbyterial committee journey, with Mr.
Good. But, his side issue of an itineration into the lakes had
prevented that at the time; and he had not subsequently com-
plied with my wish to have a Longwe church organized. But,
the delay at Andende made it impossible for me to go to
Longwe, and reach Igenja in time for Saturday.
On Friday, the 13th, the river was so low, that I was advised
not to attempt to go down the Kangwe branch, as usual, but to
go up around the island, and out into and down the main stream.
There were stoppages at Aveva's; at Ovimbiyano; at Oranga ;
and we hurried on to Igenja, arriving there just at dusk. It
was very trying to see how careless my crew was of luggage.
/ had to see to everything; and, in the multiplicity, I sometimes
forgot. My bedcot had not been put on board at Andende.
Not well, and depressed at the crew's lack of faithfulness (how
I missed the devotion of my former employee Mamba!). I left
the evening-prayers to Elder Yongwe, who had arrived shortly
after I had. Mary also was not well, and needed me. On Sat-
urday the 14th, went a half-mile down-river to a Fafiwe village,
to see sick Elder Abumba. He was better, but unable to take
part in session-work. And, as Elder Simeon had thought more
of his trading than of his session duty, he had failed to come.
So, there was no quorum, and no meeting. But, I visited in
the villages, seeing former friends. Ankombie, the carpenter
of 1884, came with his wife and child " Nassau," and a present.
And, Ombagho's mother did not resent my dismissal of her
son.
On Sunday, the 15th, the communion service was held; but,
the attendance was small. I did not find myself able to enjoy
the service : for, in the morning, I had heard of the death of
Rev. Mr. Brier at Batanga, the news being brought by a lad
who had come from Libreville on the Falaba. (This was the
fate, always expected, in sending a new man, alone, to a new
station.)
668 MY OGOWE
On Monday, while Anyentyuwa and Jane were at their
week's washing of clothes, for that purpose standing in the
river's edge, I yielded to Mary's entreaty, and allowed her to
wade in the water with them. In the afternoon, 1 made a good-
by visit to Elder Abumba, and engaged two new lads.
Faithful Mamba joined me, on Tuesday, and relieved my
wearied head, by taking the rudder, so that I could sit with
closed eyes. Stopping for dinner at another former employee's,
Re-Mondo's, there was an early stop at Lambe by 4 p. m., for
the night. But, for a very, very rare inhospitality, the people
would not receive us! I know no other reason than that the
Roman Catholic priest had influence in that village. My crew
were indignant, and were ashamed for their Galwa tribe. So, we
went on to my hunter friend Azaze, at Ngomu, by 5 p. m. But,
he was not at home. So, we crossed the river to Oranga; and
were given comfortable quarters by Simbuve, and a kind recep-
tion by Etendi and Mwanyeno, whom Mary was pleased again
to meet. There was a news of the loss, by upsetting of a canoe,
of Mr. Gacon's machinery for the saw-mill at Talaguga, in
which I was pecuniarily interested. On Wednesday, the 18th,
clothes were being ironed ; I was teaching classes to read ; Mary
enjoyed playing in the street; and, there were good supplies
of eggs, and fowls, and fruits.
It being dry season, and no danger of rain, I had no trouble
about unloading and reloading. I had left the load in the boat,
with two of the crew on guard at night. With eyes still sore,
I took the journey on the 19th, easily; stopping to gather flowers
for the two children ; eating in the forest ; and reaching Wa-
mbalya early, with many welcomes. People brought for sale
ample supplies of eggs, fowls, and vegetables. In the evening,
Okendo arrived, bringing a mail sent by Mr. Gacon. On Fri-
day, though my headache was still bad all day, I attended to
session. A canoe from Oranga, brought the dying wife
of a former employee, Rilevi, to Aveya's village. Session
meetings continued on Saturday. Rilevi's wife died. The
Falaba passed down. (I supposed that Mr. Lesage was on
board.)
On Sunday, the 22(1, my influenza was better ; but, the com-
munion services were somewhat heavy on my voice. Two
young men were baptized. Rilevi's wife was buried. Every-
where, I had let people know that I wanted to buy insect speci-
mens, for the University of Pennsylvania. One man so far
forgot the difference between mission-work and scientific col-
THE TASK ENDED 669
lection, that, as he entered the church, he offered me for sale a
large locust.
On Monday, the 23d, very early in the morning, was awak-
ened by Mary being seized with dysenteric pains, which con-
tinued for several hours. I gave her whites of eggs ; and, by
sunrise, she seemed almost well, and wished to be dressed. I
hasted to load the boat, in order to get back to Kangwe, if she
was to be farther sick. But, after we had started, she seemed
so well, that I ventured to delay at Aveya's, to bargain for a
young gorilla. For years, I had been trying to get a gorilla,
alive or dead, for my friend Dr. T. G. Morton, of Philadelphia;
had failed, in one way and another. And, here, unsought, was
a live one, at my hands! The price demanded, $40, I would
have paid, if, after the usual haggling, the owner refused less.
But, the real owner was not there; and, I was sure he would
make trouble, if a sale was made without his presence. Regret-
fully, I went on my way. A long hard pull against the swift
current of the main stream (for, I was warned not to enter the
unusual shallows of our usual route, the small Ajumba branch).
Then, in passing a Faiiwe village, I was electrified by being
offered another young gorilla, for $50. After a proper amount
of haggling, the little beast was mine for $25. But, I had not
the goods with me, and the owner, at my invitation (but, to the
annoyance of the crew), crowded his presence and weight into
the boat, to get his pay at Kangwe. Darkness came. We
passed the Basilic at Lembarene at 7 p. m., and reached Andende
by 8 p. m. After I had put my tired Mary to bed, and paid
for the gorilla, Mr. Gacon (who still was sick) told me of Mr.
Lesage's dramatic leaving on the Falaba.
Early in the morning of the 24th, was awakened by Mary,
with a return of her dysenteric symptoms, though not as severe
as twenty-four hours previously. After breakfast, she seemed
better, and I moved her, and all our goods to the Hill house.
There, in quiet. I paid the quarterly dues, arranged accounts,
and rested. Very strangely, Mary's symptoms returned again,
though less than on the previous day. And, on the 26th, she
was well. So. we all went in the boat, around to Lembarene
to the house of H. & C. where one of the gentlemen promised
her a kitten. Then, up-river to Holt's, and took dinner with
Mr. Deemin. There, Mary's colicky pains returned; and. ex-
hausted, she fell asleep on Mr. Deemin's bed. I was distressed
to discover the cause of the singular returns of pain, and then,
as suddenly, apparent good health.
670 MY OGOWE
On Friday, the 27th, began session meetings ; and continued
them on the 28th. And, on Sunday, at the communion, baptized
three women, and two infants.
On Monday, the 30th, I removed to Andende, to be ready for
a trip the next day to the lakes. I had not forgotten the pro-
posed gorilla-hunt that had been dropped at the time of Mr.
Good's sickness. And, the unexpected obtaining of the young
gorilla fired my desire to get a grown one. So, I arranged for
a journey into the lake region, taking with me my household,
as I had done, the year before. But, I did not invite Mr.
Gacon. I did not intend to do hunting myself. But, going
to a new neighborhood, I would arouse the cupidity of the
native hunters, while I rested in their village. For, I was con-
scious that I had little strength remaining, after more than eight
years' continuous work and travel and care and responsibility.
To my delight, another young gorilla was brought me by a man
from Wambalya. The two little animals I left on the Hill, in
care of one of my men. Gasita and his wife Jane had com-
pleted their year's contract; and, they left for their home.
TO THE LAKES, FOR A GORILLA.
On Tuesday, July 1, though I still had good Mamba with
me, I was rather short-handed : and, on the way down-river,
stopped at Aveya's, to call another hand. Entering Lake
Onanga, stopped at sunset at the Bird-island camping-ground
of the year before. I landed, with fever and ague ; and hastily
put up the tent for Anyentyuwa and the children, and my own
cot and net. The next day, as I was in no haste, and wished
to combine my scientific interests with an excursion for Mary,
I stayed at the camp, where she could romp, and sent out the
men to shoot birds for dinner. They were not successful ; and,
in the middle of the afternoon, we pushed on to a village where
Anyentyuwa's aunt Anyure was married to an Orungu. They
were both away; but, we remained with his brother Isoko. I
at once engaged three Bakele to hunt gorillas tor me. T re-
mained there, Thursday, Friday. Saturday and Sunday : during
most of which time I had chills and fever. The Bakele failed.
But, some Gal was brought a half-grown male gorilla. Its brain
I unfortunately spoiled in an effort to open the skull. One of
those days, I sent the boat with Anyentyuwa and the children
across the bay, to romp and gather flowers on the rolling prairie,
even the distant view of which was to me certainly beautiful.
On the Sunday, I held public religious services, in the morning.
THE TASK ENDED 671
But, the remainder of the day was marred by a street fight be-
tween two of the village slaves.
Then, there was the return journey to Andende on Monday,
the 7th, and Tuesday, the 8th. The changing views of the
many islands in the lake were very fine, at the water's edge of
one of which were great rows of amaryllis flowers. And, at
Lembarene, at the house of H. & C, on inquiring for the prom-
ised kitten, to Mary's great disappointment, it could not be
found. On arriving at Andende, we remained there that night,
to be with Mr. Gacon, who still was not well.
And, next day, there was the shameful story of how my man
Mbala had neglected my two gorilla treasures, and that very
morning had made no effort to save them from an army of
driver ants. When I demanded why he had not responded to
their cries, he said, " they were always crying." That was
only partly true. They were indeed almost constantly whining.
And, I said, " Surely, you could have heard a difference between
whines of discontent and agonized cries of pain under torture
of the ants." My little animals died of their torture; but, I
successfully and with exceeding care preserved their brains.
(These, a year later were handed to Dr. Morton: and were re-
ported on by Dr. Chapman to the Academy of Natural Science
in Philadelphia.) [A detailed account of this gorilla week in
the lake, appears in my " In an Elephant Corral,'' Neale, 1912.]
I was tired of journeying; and Mary was longing for her
Talaguga. I spent the day in gathering the luggage for our
return home.
RETURN TO TALAGUGA.
On Thursday, the 10th, Londo had kept his promise to return
in time from a visit to his village. So, I had, in him and Mamba,
two reliable hands on the journey. Our camp, at night, was
on a large sand-bank, beyond the Island " factory." There it
was that the second gorilla died ; and, with Mambas aid, under
a torchlight, working slowly and carefully until midnight, I suc-
ceeded in opening the skull, and secured the brain complete.
The next day, at Belambla ; and at Magenene ; and, at night
camped on the Ngwilaka sand-bar. An incident that evening
revealed to me how the climate and tasks were weakening me,
and brought before me the duty of taking a furlough before I
became any weaker. Fanwe came to sell us plantains. I
needed them ; but, I refused to buy, because they mispronounced
672 MY OGOWE
my name, calling me " Nasi " instead of " Nasa." When I
awoke to the consciousness of how foolish I had been, I began
to be alarmed at the nervous condition that could cause such
childishness in my manhood.
By 4 p. m. of Saturday, the 12th, we stopped with Antyuwa
at Njomu, for over Sunday. There, I began to hear whispers
that my Talaguga people had been stealing from my house, and
that their boxes of stolen goods were stored in Sika's trading-
house near by. After my morning services, himself honestly
came privately to tell me that my three young men, Mbigino,
Ampamba, and Endondo, had sent goods to his sub-trader near
Talaguga, who had brought the boxes on down to him, and that
he was suspicious of their number, and of the character of their
contents. I tried to put away the distressing thoughts during
the day. But, at night, I went to Sika's to see the boxes. I
recognized most of the goods as having come from my store-
room, not from trading-houses. The amount in those boxes
could not have been the monthly savings of any of my work-
men. In all the years of my dealings with Sika, I had found
him truthful and honest.
On Monday, the 14th, I took the boxes, stowed them in the
boat ; and we started homeward, planning how to catch the
thieves. A very suspicious incident was, that, when we had
gone about half-way, a small canoe was seen coming with three
young men who were recognized at a distance as my people.
When the canoe saw us, it suddenly turned back, and frantically
hasted ahead of us to Talaguga. I said to myself: Those
thieves were on their way to Sika's with another consignment
of my goods! On landing at Talaguga, and before anyone had
come to welcome us, T left everything in the boat, and immedi-
ately went to ail the huts of the five J had left in charge, and,
without assigning any reason, ordered them to bring their boxes
to iny house. Monkami was their leader, and I told him that
there had been stealing. He was able to satisfy me that he
knew nothing of it. On requiring the five to open their boxes.
f found nothing incriminating. Then, the boat was discharged.
And. then the thieves saw their own boxes of stolen goods which
I had recovered! Their faces were a study! I said nothing;
nor did they. After dinner. T sent word for "the thieves" to
come to me. meaning the three whom Sika had named; they
came, and Odimbo-suka also came with them. T showed them
the boxes of stolen goods ; and they confessed: but, they denied
that thev had any more hidden elsewhere. T demanded, as
THE TASK ENDED 673
proof of their truth, that they go with me to all the adjacent
trading-houses, for me to investigate. Fearing that I would
take them to Asange for arrest, they refused. I had three men
on whom I could rely, Mamba, Monkami, and Londo. I took
a fourth, and crossed the river to Mpaga's trading-house. (My
house now was safe, with Anyentyuwa in it.) There, I found
a box belonging to Mbigino. Then, I went on to Asange. I
did not consult with even good Mamba. I went by myself to
Chef Gazengel, for authority to arrest the thieves. He arranged
that his Goree sergeant should come to Talaguga, not openly,
lest the thieves should see him and flee, but hidden in the Oka
that was going down-river next morning. I went to the white
trader in charge of the Oka; he entered heartily into my plans.
I came back ; and, stopping again at Mpaga's, took possession
of Mbigino's box. I sat up late at night, making an inventory
of the recovered goods, amounting to at least $250.00. And,
wrote a letter of advice to Mr. Gacon; and, a letter of accusa-
tion of the four parties, to the administrator at Lembarene.
And I dismissed the four young men from my service, with
loss of all due pay; and kindly (?) told them that I had ar-
ranged for their passage on the Oka, for the next morning. No
one, not even Mamba or Anyentyuwa, knew anything about the
expected arrest.
As the vessel appeared in sight on Tuesday, the 15th, I went
off with the four. They stepped into it without hesitation, not
noticing the sergeant and his assistant. Suddenly, at a signal
from me, he seized them, and tied them with a rope which I had
secreted under my coat. They were amazed.. The sergeant
gave orders to the Oka to allow no landing elsewhere than at
the French Post. And, then, the two officers came ashore with
me, drank coffee, and I sent them back to Asange by canoe.
In the confession that the thieves made, they said that they were
tempted by finding a window shutter that had not been fastened.
(That I doubted.) Also, one of them said that when he had
come to me in my study, at times for errands, he had seen the
drawer in my desk where I kept the store-room key. Having
entered the house by the window (unfastened or forced) after
that, everything was easy.
In the afternoon of Thursday, the 17th, some of Sika's people
came with a large box containing a few tools, which they said
that the thieves had left in their care. I was so wearied by the
whole affair, that at night, I had Mamba relieve me in charge
of evening prayers. In trying to take care of Kangwe, my own
674 MY OGOWE
station had been injured. " They made me keeper of the vine-
yards; but mine own vineyard have I not kept."
On Sunday, the 20th, a very quiet day on the river. Mary
was recovering - her memory of the lessons which had been for-
gotten during the irregularities of the journeys. On Saturday,
the 26th, went with a company of six to Mary's Ozege, for the
sake of an excursion to relieve myself of troublesome thoughts.
But, again, as in almost every journey, unless I looked for
everything, something would be forgotten. The cook's assist-
ant forgot to bring even his cooking utensils ! And, we had
to turn back for them. While we were at the Ozege. some pass-
ing Galwa canoes reported that the Oka had faithfully delivered
my four thieves to the administrator at Lembarene ; but, that
they had escaped from the little hut in which he had placed them.
(Any child can break out of a bamboo hut!)
Because I had fined Ngawe for a series of neglects in the
kitchen, he deserted. A very ungrateful return for the doctor-
ing which Anyentyuwa had done for him when he was sick, and,
for the clothing T had given him when his box had been lost.
At chapel services of Sunday. August 3d, there were six tribal
lines, ten Gafwas. five Ajumba, five Faiiwe, two Mpongwe, two
whites, and one Inenga.
On Tuesday, the 5th, Sika and Antyuwa came to buy tools.
The former had behaved so well in the matter of the robbery,
and had in no way hinted at a reward. So, I made him a pres-
ent; for which he was quite grateful.
EXCURSION TO BITAGA LAGOON.
On Wednesday, the 6th. leaving two in charge of the prem-
ises, and taking a crew of four in the large canoe, and only one
in a small canoe. T went with my household on the annual fish-
ing excursion for Mary's birthday. Stopping at Njomu, we
added Antyuwa' s wife Papa, to our company. Some of the
Faiiwe there were so surprised at a white man's going fishing,
that they said something unusual would happen, either rain, or
something else, and advised me not to go. I smiled at the idea
of rain in August. When T reached the lagoon. I suspected
that a reason why T was advised was lest T should interfere with
the num1>er of Faiiwe who were already there. Tt was the first
of my Bitaga excursions on which T found Fan we already occu-
pying our pleasant camp. But, I went to another good place;
and, at once sent two of the men fishing, while the others put
up the tent. etc.
THE TASK ENDED 675
Next clay, the former routine of doing-as-we-pleased was fol-
lowed. I read Maria Monk's Awful Disclosures of Convent
Life. Many Fail we came simply to stare at us. The staring
of other tribes had been with an amused look, that was soon
satisfied, and then passed. But, the Fafiwe stare was long,
steady, stolidly passive, and persistent even against protest. It
finally caused me to dislike the tribe; and that, of course, inter-
fered with success in work for them. That night, there was a
rain ; and I and the men got wet.
On Saturday, the 9th, started homeward, stopping, of course,
at Njomu. The Fafiwe there were sure that it was my " fetish "
that had caused the rain. And, we were comfortably at our
home, in time to stow away everything before the night.
On Sunday, the 10th, after dark the Brazza came, bringing
Mr. Gacon. He had expected to arrive on Saturday; but, the
engine was out of order. He brought a mail. It contained a
blessed letter from my noble brother William. The criticisms
of some, even of my relatives, for my retaining of Anyentyuwa
in my household after my sister's departure, had cut me severely
and indelibly. They had unjustly failed to appreciate all the
points of the unprecedented situation. My brother was not a
professing Christian ; but, his letter was the most Christian I re-
ceived from anyone, relating to that subject. He justified, and
commended my course. For it, I have most lovingly cherished
his memory. And, I rejoiced that the home to which my little
daughter was to go was one in which the name of her good " Ma
Janie " would not be despised.
On Friday, the 15th, Mr. Gacon completed his visit; and,
with my canoe and Mamba and crew, he returned to Kangwe.
It was a showery day, and chilly; and, none of us felt well.
The absence of the crew left me fewer and weaker than had
been the case for years.
Xative African females cannot dress their own hair, espe-
cially if it is long, as was Anyentyuwa's. So, in a canoe with
the two children for their amusement, she went across the river,
to trader Mpaga's wife, to be braided by her. Mary's dog
Puck was unable to resist the temptation to follow. On our
down-stream journeys, he ceased to follow, when we disap-
peared behind a point. But. with the canoe in sight that Satur-
day, he followed ; and actually swam across the swift stream.
On Sunday, the 17th. no Fan we present at chapel. A war-
drum was being beaten in their villages, about some quarrel
over a stolen woman.
676 MY OGOWE
By Friday, the 22<d, Mamba. had returned from Kangwe,
bringing some recruits for work. I began the re-roofing of the
hill-side house, Mrs. Nassau's cottage, of 1883. Mary was with
me part of the time. With her in that house, her mother's, the
memories were impressive.
TOUR TO THE CHURCHES.
On Monday, September 8th. warned by the thieving of three
months before, I left a very reliable company in charge, Mamba,
Londo, and two others, and started down-river in the boat with
my household and a weak crew of six. Did not reach Okendo's
at Magenene, until after sunset. Next day, expecting difficulty
in the low water, our start was very early. The boat grounded
badly before passing Mbomi ; and, again, before the noon stop
in the forest opposite to the Ozege Nkatya. The only open
channel took us down the left bank and around by Inenga ;
reaching Andende landing just at sundown. A warm welcome
from Mr. Gacon.
On Thursday, the nth, in the boat, the usual stop was made
for lunch at Ovimbiyano ; and then on to Igenja. On the way,
was surprised by a strong wind and some rain. But, the little
thatch over the stern kept my household dry. The welcomes
we're good. And, Elder Abumba was well again.
People were so slow at gathering in from the adjacent dis-
tricts, that I did not call the session together on Friday. Mary
enjoyed herself playing on the little sand-bar at the landing,
and in sitting in the boat, and working with a paddle. On
Saturday, the 13th, session meetings were held. And, on Sun-
day, two adults were baptized at the communion. The church
company scattered, on Monday: but, I remained, writing up
minutes of session. Next day, in the boat, I stopped, as usual.
at places, to teach members of the inquiry class. This was jus-
tice to them, in following my presbyterial position of requiring
ability to read the Bible as a condition precedent to baptism
(excepting in certain evident cases). And, for the night at
" Liverpool."
On Wednesday, the 17th. happening to meet friend Azaze
near the Fanwe village on the site of his old Nandi-po town, he
claimed that I should stay with him that night, at his new place
near Ngomu. I did not weary myself to push the crew, and
took our leisurely way for comfort, reaching Azaze's before
himself arrived. When he came, he gave us good rooms in a
THE TASK ENDED 677
big house; but, some of his women annoyed us by being unwill-
ing to vacate them.
In parting, next day, as a return for the hospitality of the
village, I felt that I ought to buy a quantity (which I really did
not need) of the abundance of potatoes, etc., etc., which the
people crowded to sell. I admired the site. [It is now the
location of one of the stations of my successors, the French
Protestant Society.] Our progress was slow around the
Aningo-arevo and Aromba sands. But we were at Ovimbiyano
by middle of afternoon.
On Friday, the 19th, began session meetings. Late in the
afternoon, Elder Agon jo arrived from Kangwe, confirming
(what Okendo had already told me) of his difficulties with Mr.
Gacon. I was very much distressed. I had been friendly with
Mr. Gacon, and he had been very kind to me. But, I began to
doubt him. When he first came from Switzerland, he was a
Perfectionist. He had maintained that belief, in the helpful
religious surroundings of his home. In Africa, with its law-
lessness, and its small means of grace, he found that he was im-
perfect. Then, in his disappointment, while not losing his
Christian faith, he became reckless, and went to the other ex-
treme. He became passionate in his anger, and violent in his
treatment of the natives. Messrs. Allegret and Teisseres, in
leaving Kangwe for their Kongo journey, had passed over
to him the control of the station that Mr. Good had entrusted
to them. And, Mr. Gacon had voluntarily shared it with me.
But, he did not know how to exercise power. I had to believe
that he abused it.
On Saturday, the 20th, Agon jo returned to Kangwe, for his
duty with the church. A boat came on its way up-river, with
the white engineer of the Duala, and the news of the wreck of
that vessel at Ashuka.
On Sunday, the 21st, arrived Bible-reader Mbora, from his
out-station in the Nkami portion of the river, with the news of
the death at Libreville, of Anyure-gula, a cousin of Anyentyuwa.
(This increased her desire to go to Gaboon, for the mournings.)
In the evening, came the astounding news that Mr. Gacon had
had Elder Agonjo arrested. I felt sure of his innocence, and,
with my former friendship for Mr. Gacon, I felt much cast
down. Being in charge of Kangwe, I knew that I would have
to take some action.
After a restless night of anxiety, I arose early, on Monday
678 MY OGOWE
morning, and hurried the loading of the hoat, so as to haste to
the aid of Elder Agonjo. The crew pulled slowly; I had to
beg them to haste to the relief of their friend. When nearing
Lembarene, I went into the forest alone, to put on clothing-
better fitted for calling at the French Post. 1 feared that my
reception might not be cordial ; for, the administrator was the
J)r. Reol (in company, nine months l>efore, with that sergeant
at Cape Lopez) ; and, he had made no effort to re-arrest my
four escaped thieves. (Mr. Gacon had told me that this admin-
istrator was displeased at what he thought my discourtesy in
not paying my respects to him at my quarterly visits to Kangwe.
1 certainly had not intended disrespect, J had been so very busy
with so many church duties. Perhaps my failure to make an
official call was an error. But, it did not justify his neglect to
give me justice, in the case of the thieves.) I then went on,
and landed at H. & C. house, and asked the agent, Mr. Smith,
for the use of his interpreter. At the Post. 1 had a long dis-
cussion with the administrator. Mr. Gacon's charge against
Elder Agonjo and two other young men was that they had en-
couraged a certain young man, Rere-ntyolo, in an attempt to
shoot him. (Rere-ntyolo had then fled.) Of that attempt I
knew nothing, and made no plea. Nor, for the two young men
did I take any position, as to their guilt or innocence. But, for
Elder Agonjo, I staked my truth and honor for his innocence,
simply on his character as I knew it. He also asserted the in-
nocence of the two young men. Finally, the administrator
did me the compliment to accept my word, and released the
three, unconditionally; except, that as he said that Agonjo had
been held only as a hostage, as a means of compelling Rere-
ntyolo to deliver himself up in his place, 1 should bring pressure
on proper persons to compel his return. I accepted the condi-
tion ; and was greatly relieved. There was rejoicing when
Elder Agonjo entered the boat. It was dark when we reached
Andende. Thanks were given me by the crowd that awaited
us at the landing, led by Ntyango and other prominent Kangwe
employees. There was evident increased respect for me, be-
cause of my apparent influence with the government. I at once
took Elder Agonjo to Mr. Gacon, expecting that the latter would
be displeased that I had released him. To my agreeable sur-
prise, he was not; though he still believed that Agonjo had
aided Rere-ntyolo. In the evening Mr. Gacon and 1 had a
somewhat excited conversation.
On Tuesday, the 23d, I was busy paying the Kangwe em-
THE TASK ENDED 679
ployees. After a decided talk with Agonjo and Ntyango, I
sent them, to appeal to the Galwa chiefs, on the various grounds
of justice to Mr. Gacon, to Agonjo, and to myself, that they
should capture Rere-ntyolo, and deliver him to the government.
In the evening, I had another exciting talk with Mr. Gacon ;
the end of which was a better understanding. Though he still
doubted Agonjo, he was convinced of my sympathy for himself,
as against Rere-ntyolo; and my desire to be just both to himself
and Agonjo.
Next day, Anyentyuwa went to the Hill, with five of the em-
ployees, to superintend their cleaning of the house, in expecta-
tion of the return of Mr. and Mrs. Good from the United States.
On Thursday, the 25th, I wrote for Mr. Good a letter, in the
nature of a report of my administration of his station and
churches, during his absence. I had felt hurt at his estimate
of my work during his former absence. But, I was indifferent
as to how he might regard the present one. For, I myself was
dissatisfied with it. I knew however that I had done the best I
could, in my ill-health, in charge of two stations and three
churches, and limited by my first duty to my little child. No
human hand could have worked perfectly under those combined
circumstances. In the afternoon, Elder Agonjo and Ntyango
returned, having obtained possession of Rere-ntyolo, and accom-
panied by a large delegation of the heads of many villages. The
people of " England " village had yielded to Agonjo's pleas,
and had given up the prisoner. I went out on to the large front
veranda, to receive the delegation, and to listen, according to
native etiquette, to the dignified statement they desired to make.
I was shocked when Mr. Gacon rushed out of the house, into
our midst, and began to beat the prisoner. However guilty the
latter was, and however indignant I might be at his attempted
assault on my white brother, I appreciated that he had been
brought to me, not to Mr. Gacon ; and, as it were, under a flag*
of truce ; that he was my prisoner, not Mr. Gacon's ; and that
neither of us had right to punish, in advance of the civil author-
ity. The delegation looked on in astonishment. I interfered.
Mr. Gacon, by that undignified conduct, lost all the sympathy the
natives otherwise would have had for him. I sent the prisoner
to the Post, with Mr. Gacon to make his plea against him to
the administrator.
I was told of a cruel crime that had recently occurred down
the Ajumba branch of the river. An Ajumba man, angry at
one of his wives, tied her feet, also her hands behind her back,
680 MY OGOWE
threw her on the ground, and, with the assistance of a slave to
hold her head firmly, had cut away the skin and flesh of her face,
below the eyes. Then, releasing her, he ordered her to go away
to her father's village. (That occurred in a morning.) She
went to her father's people. They were horrified. But, in-
stead of receiving and helping her, they regarded her as prac-
tically dead, and thought only of the native judicial point of
view, for her murderer's punishment. They felt that, if they
received her, and the expected death occurred on their hands,
part of the blame would be laid against them. So, they said,
" this is a dead person," and told her to go back to her husband,
in order that he might complete the killing; and, then, they would
kill him. The poor woman started back to her husband's vil-
lage; but, he threatened to shoot anyone who should bring her.
So, she wandered to her mother's family, and they, in pity,
received her, in the evening, after she had stood a long while at
the entrance of the village. Her relatives demanded the hus-
band's life. But, his people protected him, with the claim that
a man was at liberty to do what he pleased with a wife, she
being the property he had bought. After discussion, the claim
against his life was changed to a demand for a substitute, who
was to be treated as the husband had treated their sister. He
yielded to the demand, and sent to them a little slave. They
sent back the slave, saying, that a slave's blood did not equal
their sister's; and, demanded a freeman, naming a sister of the
husband, a woman who was the mother of five children. And,
the " palaver " was still being talked.
I held a session meeting in the afternoon. And, continued it
on Saturday.
On Sunday, the 28th, I had several boils that hurt me very
much; but, I managed to dress for church. Two young men
were baptized.
On Monday, Mary was sick, and I attended to her; though
I had intended to begin to pack a quantity of native implements
and other curios, that Mr. Gacon had been kindly collecting for
me, for the university. But, as I could sit by her bed, I wrote
up the first-church records.
On Tuesday, the 30th, Mary was a little better, and could lie
on rugs on the floor in the baggage-room, and watch me as I
worked at my packing. Mr. Gacon, too, was busy, putting the
Andende premises in order, in expectation of Mr. Good's com-
ing. One of my men had finished his year's contract, was paid,
and left with Elder Yongwe. With them, T also dismissed the
FAX WE WARRIOR
Facing page 681
THE TASK ENDED 68 1
young woman assistant, Oka-oningo, for disobedience. It was
noticeable, in my Talaguga life, how almost all my Galwa em-
ployees, male and female, came from principally only three dis-
tricts, Wambalya, Oranga, and Igenja.
On Wednesday, October i, Mary being better, I was safe to
leave her, when I had finished the packing, and went on errands
to the trading-houses ; and called, to pay my official respects, on
the administrator; and make inquiries about a possible tow up-
river. But, prospects were slight; the Daala was wrecked, the
Yasi sunk, and the Oviro disabled. Next day, I completed the
closing and addressing of my five boxes of African specimens,
for Provost Pepper of the University of Pennsylvania; and sent
them to one of the Lembarene houses, to be forwarded to Libre-
ville, for shipment to England and the United States.
TO TALAGUGA.
On Friday, October 3, we bade good-by to Mr. Gacon, who
was not well, and who expected to return to Switzerland, as
soon as Mr. Good should come. He was very earnest in plan-
ning for me to visit him at Neuchatel, when I should be on my
way to America in the next year. I fully intended to accept his
invitation ; for, of all the European countries, Switzerland was
the one that I had, all my life, desired to see. The river was
rising, and I had not much difficulty in getting around the shal-
lows of old Aguma Island beyond old Adali-na-nanga. Our
lunch at Nenge-Nkanga, where a good dinner had been prepared,
was spoiled by a heavy shower of rain. We were at the old
Island " factory " late in the afternoon, where the trader.
Nkombe-nyondo, received us kindly. But, my boils, and the
Fanwe, armed, and peering at my crew, if haply they might
discover a Faiiwe of a hostile clan, took away my appetite for
supper; and I went to bed early. Next day, fortunately, there
was no rain, though there were signs of heavy storms as we
passed Mbomi. With a good run we were at Okendo's before
sunset; and discharged the boat, arranging for Sunday rest.
On Sunday, there was the false report that the lad Njega was
dead. Some native traders came to service. The degree of
civilization and the slight education that our mission gave the
young men. when not sanctified by a change of heart, showed
itself, with some of them, in the form of offensive vanity. One
of them, Rikange. that day came dressed in a tailor suit, hair
parted in the middle like a woman, striking attitudes, and af-
fected lisping in his language.
682 MY OGOWE
On Monday, the 6th, in passing Ongamu's, he gave us a de-
licious fish igcixnt; which we utilized at our forest-camp near
Krere-volo beach. Long before 6 o'clock, by an excellent run,
we were at Njomu.
On Tuesday, the 7th, though Iga was sick, we ate our dinner
on Ozege-Irandi. And, were at our Talaguga by the middle of
the afternoon. At first, the children felt disappointed that dog
J } uck had not promptly come to welcome them. They feared
that he was lost ; but, he presently appeared.
The next day, Wednesday, I sent messengers on an errand,
to the Post. On their return, they brought from an Knglish
trader, a kitten for Mary, in place of the promised one he had
failed to find, at Lembarene in 1889. Chef Du Val, with
another white man. from the Post, stopped to say good-by, on
the 9th, as he was about to return to France. Alary lost some
of her enjoyment of Puck; he being now full grown, his play
was too violent.
Friday, the 10th. (An anniversary.) The Falaba anchored,
and landed me a dozen boxes and packages of goods, and a very
large mail, that had been detained by the low water of the previ-
ous three months. Among the good things, were shoes for
Mary, which she shared with Iga. I was so excited by the com-
ing of the mail so longed-for, that I had to control myself and
read the letters very slowly ; for, the excitement made my head
ache worse. Among the mail from Gaboon, was a photograph
of little Harry Davidson Gault, Mrs. Gault with the child hav-
ing arrived from America, and joining Mr. Gault in Libreville.
Also, a photo of my excellent friend. Dr. T. G. Morton's coun-
try home, on the Pennsylvania Railroad main line, near Phila-
delphia, United States.
On Sunday, the 12th, some sixteen Fan we were at chapel.
Mary again in good health, and good appetite.
Though I had no positive assurance, 1 believed that some one
would be sent, at the January, 1891, annual meetings, as my
relief; that I might take a furlough to the United States. It
so, I needed to prepare all the thousand-and-one items of travel
and baggage, l)efore leaving the Ogowe for Libreville in the
middle of December. Thus, with only two full months before
me, it was necessary to have luggage ready, from time to time,
to send on chance steamers to Lembarene : there to await what-
ever vessel should finally take me to the meetings. So, I began,
on Thursday, the 16th, on certain trunks; and, as opportunity
FAX WE WARRIOR
Facing page 683
THE TASK ENDED 683
came, sent them and others to Lembarene during October and
November.
On Friday, the 17th, in the midst of a rain, a Frenchman
stopped in a large canoe, to leave messages sent by Rev. Messrs.
Allegret and Teisseres, whom he had met in the Interior at
Franceville. I appreciated very highly the unfailing courtesy
of both those gentlemen. In the methodic spirit with which I
attended to all business, so that nothing should be forgotten, I
already began to make memoranda of things to be done or
bought, on the prospective voyage to America, six months in
advance.
On Wednesday, the 22(1, at Asange, paying accounts and
settling debts at the houses, and announcing to them my furni-
ture and other goods for sale. At the Post, was informed by
Chef Gazengel that, within a month, the Ecclaircur and a new
vessel the Milamine, would be in the river for freight and pas-
senger traffic. That exactly coincided with my plans for send-
ing baggage for Libreville, in the last of December. It was a
very successful day's business, that enlivened my spirits, and
gave me hearty appetite for food, notwithstanding the phleg-
monous boil on my left scapula.
The regular weekly village itineration, though I was unable,
had been attended to by Elder Abumba or others. On Satur-
day, the 25th. I sent Mamba as far as Njomu. On his return,
he brought some fine Faiiwe daggers, as a parting present from
Antyuwa. [Those daggers I presented to five members of my
Synod of New Jersey; and one of them was wielded in the pul-
pit at Belvidere, N. J., in October, 1892, by Rev. Dr. C. D.
Shaw, when I succeeded him in the moderator's chair.]
During those days, the phlegmon on my left scapula was so
very painful, and made me so feverish, that I could do no work,
though I was anxious to attend to some packing, to be t ready
for any chance steamer. By an irony of fate, I was overrun
with offers of food. In the earlier years, I had a large work-
ing force, in the erection of the many buildings necessary at
any new station ; for them, I needed food. The Faiiwe had
none to sell ; and the Galwas, seventy miles away, did not feel
that there was inducement to bring their extra supply for the
needs of only one purchaser. And, inevitably I had had fre-
quent desertions because of dissatisfaction with the food supply.
Now, at the end of my years, with houses all built, and with
but few employees (for whom I had small need) even the
Faiiwe had learned to raise extra food ; and the large trade set-
684 MY OGOWE
tlement at Asange Post made it worth while for Galwas one
hundred miles distant to come with their canoe loads of plan-
tains, cassava, and fish. Lest they should pass me by during the
remaining few months of my stay, I bought a little from each
one. Formerly, I would gladly have taken the whole canoe-
load. So sore was my back, that I could not even hand out
articles in payment from the store. Elder Abumba and Anye-
ntyuwa had to do it for me.
On Saturday, November i, I started Mamba in a canoe with
five crew, to take down-river four boxes of Mrs. Nassau's books
and other relics which I was preserving for her child. It was the
rainy season ; but, I risked the chance of their running through
in one day, without a shower.
On Sunday, November 2, I myself was not well,, and felt de-
pressed about my work. Alary was unhappy because her hair
had not been arranged as she wished. And, Puck was so noisy
in the chapel, that he had to be put out. And, then I shortened
the services.
On Monday, Chef Gazengel. from the Post, sent his ser-
geant to buy my provisions. I sold him $100 worth. On
Thursday, the 6th, hearing that the Falaba was expected soon,
anxiety about my packing was increased; and, I set Elder
Abumba to do some of it, as I sat by to superintend, ^'hen he
brought out my best tea-set, to pack it, I discovered that the
entire dozen of plates, the tea-pot, and other pieces were miss-
ing. As I had used the set on only special occasions, the loss
was thus late in being revealed. Evidently, this was part of the
work of the thief Mbigino and his three companions. It in-
creased my indignation over the fact that they had received no
punishment.
On Saturday, the 8th, Sergeant Malamine came again, to state,
from Chef Gazengel, that two of the twenty-five tins of sugar
I had charged, were missing from the case I had sent him !
This was, for the moment, annoying, though no fault was at-
tached to me. That ease had never been opened by me. The
explanation was not an unusual one. Kru-men on the ocean-
steamers, in their handling of freight in the holds of the ves-
sels, without white supervision, often skillfully opened boxes,
and stole. Of course, I rectified the bill, and salved it with a
can of cranberries.
At noon came the Elobi. There was a mail, and a Wardian
case of geraniums and grape-vines, delayed from an order I had
sent to England. The kindness of the steamers had noticeably
FANWE WARRIOR
Facing page 685
THE TASK ENDED 685
diminished, since the era of charges for transportation and pass-
age had begun. The captain declined to land the big case for
me ; my old freight canoe was dangerously small into which to
load so large a box. But, it was done, safely. In the mail, a
letter of Mr. Good's surprised me. It stated that a Rev. Wm.
S. Bannerman would probably be sent to take my place at Tala-
guga; and, Mr. Good suggested that I should retain my furni-
ture, etc., for sale to Mr. Bannerman. I had hoped that some-
body would be sent for my relief. But, I had decided that I
would go in 1891, even if no one should be sent to me. I had
twice stepped into the Kangwe breach, to save Mr. Good.
Equally, from Kangwe, he could supervise my Talaguga, espe-
cially as he had returned in good health, with associates Rev.
and Mrs. Jacot. Nothing had been said about relief for me.
I would no longer stand " on the burning deck." Having been
left alone all the six years, I had had only myself with whom
to advise. The timely sale of my goods was over. I wondered
why the intimation of Mr. Bannerman's coming had not been
made earlier. Why had the suggestion as to retaining my furni-
ture been delayed? How could I know but that my successor
would have his own goods and supplies? My furniture had al-
ready been sold. The purchasers expected me to send it on the
Elobi. I was excited. So, I quieted myself by planting the
geraniums and grapes, for which I had been longing. In the
mail, Miss Lombard, the tactful editress of Over Sea and Land,
the Presbyterian children's Foreign Missionary magazine, of
Philadelphia, had sent Mary the new play, " Pigs-in-clover," and
some alphabet cards. [I have reverently visited her grave in
the Lower Providence cemetery, near Norristown, Pa.]
In my frequent absences during the year, the white ants had
obtained a hold in the house, which I feared was more than the
passing presence of their usual daily attacks. And, while I
should be away in January at Libreville, the insects would be in-
vading still more. An unpleasant set of welcomes for Mr. and
Mrs. Bannerman when they should arrive ! I was building noth-
ing new; and, most of the houses were in good repair; but, as a
preparation for my successor, I had many jobs of painting and
cleaning. Mary began to appreciate that her home was being
broken up ; for, her cat was sent back to the trader who had
given it. and her play- room was vacated of its toys, etc., that it
might be left properly clean.
On Friday, the 14th, a pleasant addition to our company ar-
rived on the new steamer Sergeant M diamine, in the persons of
686 MY OGOWK
Mamba's wife and two of her children (himself was in the canoe
in which I had sent him on the ist, still on his way up). Also,
Agaia and his wife, and two other young men.
On Saturday, the 15th, the precious little Swan, which I had
carefully guarded since 1882, for sake of its donors, and of its
owner. Mrs. Nassau, and of its present possessor, my child, al-
most ended its life. In it, Anyentyuwa with the two children
had gone across the river to visit her cousin Ozume, wife of the
man "James," at the new German trading-house on Mpaga's
abandoned site. They had just entered the boat to return, when
it was stove in against a snag, and so badly damaged that they
had to come in a canoe.
On Wednesday, the 19th, at the tiresome job of making an
inventory of the utensils in the pantry. It took labor, to look
up the prices in bills of years past. The Oviro had passed up ;
and I got six more boxes and trunks ready for the vessel when
it should come down. In the evenings, after Mary had been
sung to sleep, I usually read aloud to Anyentyuwa, while she
sewed. Friends in the United States frequently sent us the
monthly magazines.
I had sent Mamba, on the 18th, with a letter of inquiry to
Mr. Good, at Kangwe. On Saturday, the 22d, he returned. \
felt relieved by Mr. Good's very definite letter. I was also glad
that all my people were together again.
On Saturday, the 29th, I had a lot of my luggage ready in a
canoe, early in the morning, so as not to detain the expected
Oka when it should come down from the Post. When it came
in sight. T hurried off two loads, while the vessel waited, though
the engineer shouted ashore that there was no more room.
Nevertheless, I sent all the eighteen pieces ; for, the agent, Mr.
Deemin. had promised me the use of the Oka "at any time."
On Sunday, the 30th. a large number of Fail we at chapel.
Mary was not present; she was watching with her kind "Ma
Janie," who was sick.
On Monday. December 1, discovered that one of the employees
had the contagious skin-disease, abukzve. Elder Abumba's con-
tract-year had just closed ; he would have stayed a week or two
longer, until T should finally leave. But, T did not like to have
that contagious eruption on the premises. T dreaded it more
than smallpox. So, Abumba prepared to go; and took him
with him. %
On Wednesday, the t,(\. with Abumba's canoe went also
Mamba's. The coming of his wife Ntinosamu on November
O
-
THE TASK ENDED 687
14, which I had legarded as a blessing, proved to be anything
else. She was unhappy, dissatisfied, complaining, and did not
wish to remain. The sickness of her children (the result of her
own neglect) caused Mamba to ask for the canoe, in which to
take them away. But, he was to hasten back to Talaguga, as I
was depending on him to take charge of the premises, after I
was gone, and until a successor should come.
Shortly after the two canoes were gone, came the Eclaireur,
and I made arrangements with it that it should take some of my
baggage, when again it should come on the 16th.
On Thursday, the 4th, the Elobi came with a mail. While
it was discharging at " James " German house across the river,
I went to it, and engaged to send other pieces of my baggage by
it when it should return from Asange next day at noon. With
these confusions of planning and packing, I could not think or
work methodically. At night, wrote a long letter to Mr. Good.
And, at 10 p. m. resumed packing, aided by Anyentyuwa. But,
I stopped, tired out before midnight.
While I was labeling, marking, and strapping trunks, etc.. on
Friday, the 5th, and writing business directions to some traders,
the Elobi suddenly appeared at 10 a. m., in advance of its prom-
ised noon hour. In great haste, I sent off five pieces. The ex-
citement, with the night's work, made me sick. House-clean-
ing was going on, for our final leaving of the house. On Mon-
day, the 8th, I began my final stock-taking. Anyentyuwa's
brother Antyuwa with his wife Papa, and other native traders
and their wives came to make their good-by visit. To entertain
them in the evening, I used my last pieces of fireworks.
On Thursday, the nth, I was awakened by the whistle of a
gunboat that stopped at my landing". It handed a letter to me,
and asked whether it was for me. It was for a man at Lasteur-
ville. hundreds of miles in the Interior! It was very strange.
Was it possible that none on board could read that address?
Or, if they could read, why did they think that I was he? I11
the afternoon, as a last job, I took all the men to cut clear the
outline path of the entire premises, so that my successor should
have no doubt where the line was. By Friday, the 12th, all my
packing except of clothing, was finished. Gave out supplies for
Mamba' s expenses during my absence at Libreville.
On Sunday, the 14th, no persons were present from the vil-
lages ; they were dazed at the idea of my going away. So, the
audience was very small. It might be my last Sunday at Tala-
guga. I had many thoughts, in going over the history of the
688 MY OGOWE
previous eight years. Apparently, there was so little fruit to my
labor at Talaguga. And. doubtless, some critics would say there
was none; for. I had no church organization, and no Fanwe pro-
fessors of religion. I began to consider that I had erred, as to
the matter of church organization. For, there were converts,
many ; but, all of them Galwas. And, with the same courtesy
which, while I was at Kangwe in 1876 '78, I had shown to Rev.
Dr. Bushnell, of Libreville as " bishop " of the region, until
there should be converts who could be erected into an Ogowe
church (and, I had sent my first converts, for baptism at his
Gaboon church). So, in the same courtesy, for the eight years
at Talaguga, I had sent my Galwa converts, to Mr. Good, as
" bishop " of the Ogowe, hoping for the day when I should have
some Fanwe converts, who could be organized into a Talaguga
church. I think I erred. My courtesy was ideal, ecclesiasti-
cally ; but, I carried it too far. Had I asked presbytery for an
organization, even of only Galwas, the effect would have been
more impressive on the surrounding Fanwe. The view of the
administration of the Sacraments would have been a means of
grace to them. It would have had the effect of a clinching call
to the appeals I had made to them. The presence of a church
would have been an encouragement to myself.
On Monday, the 15th. some inquiries I had made on the 13th
in regard to the Ecloircur caused me to doubt its coming. So.
I hurried off Londo in a canoe to Kangwe, with a dozen pieces
of baggage. Only an hour later, the steamer did come! Tt
stopped across the river, to try to recover an anchor which had
been lost by the gunboat of the nth. I hurried excessively, and
sent three pieces of baggage to the vessel. In the haste, one of
the pieces, Mary's, had not been strapped. When this was re-
membered, a small canoe was sent rapidly, reaching the vessel
just in the last moment of time, to fasten the little chest.
On Wednesday, the 17th, the uncle, Ongamu, came to visit
his niece ; he and she and the children went a long walk around
the entire premises, for a last view; while I made a last de-
struction of some old letters and many bills and documents.
On Sunday, the 21st, very few people were present at chapel.
With Mary. I made a good-by visit to the grave. I was proud
of the child's tears for the mother she had never known.
Antyuwa and Sika came on Monday, the 22d ; and, the former
took his sister across the river to make her last visit to her
cousin Ozume. When they returned in the afternoon, my
formerlv reliable friend Sika was drunk!
THE TASK ENDED 689
LAST JOURNEY TO KANGWE.
On Tuesday, December 23, while loading my boat and canoe,
the Jeanne-Louise passing down, suddenly offered to take any
baggage for me. It was a difficult place for a steamer to stop
without anchoring; in some of its bottoms, anchors were lost on
rocks. I hurried the canoe to the vessel, putting on board four
pieces of luggage; thus making room for some other smaller
things in the boat. We ate our last meal at Talaguga; and, at
1 p. m. exactly, having sent the canoe in advance, my faithful
Nelly-Howard started its last journey for me down-river.
Mary's little chickie was one of the last things to enter the boat.
It had been almost forgotten; and. itself stepped in, and quietly
nestled by its mistress. It was the only one surviving of a
brood, only a day old, whose hen had been killed by a snake
under the house. The two children had nursed and fed it in
Mary's play-room. And, thence, it joined them in their plays,
was allowed to come to the table, and entered the boat on our
journeys, following like a dog.
We all had our tears for the memories of the joys and mingled
sorrow's of the Talaguga home that disappeared from our sight,
as the current swept us around a point of land. With a stoppage
at Njomu to take some letters, and to leave Puck in Antyuwa's
care : and, at Abange Creek, where Ongamu gave Mary a man-
drill monkey, we were at Okendo's for the night before sunset.
Next day, there were a few stops: At one white trader's,
who had just bought an entire manatee, that Mary might have a
close view and memory of it; at two others, for a sale, and a
small debt ; and, then, in the forest for our meal. Another stop
in the forest was made a few miles from Andende, to change our
clothing. In the previous years, any clothing was allowable, in
consideration of our being missionary travelers. Now, that my
work in the Ogowe was done, and I was a visitor at Kangwe, I
resumed again civilization's code.
We reached Andende a half-hour after sunset ; and, were met
at the landing by Mr. and Mrs. Good and young Albert. Soon,
the new missionary, Rev. Mr. Jacot came down the path to greet
us. And, on the Andende veranda, we were presented to Mrs.
Jacot. The Jacots were going, on invitation, to a Christmas Eve
supper at the German house. This was something new in the
relations between missionaries and traders in the Ogowe.
690 MY OGOWE
AT KANGWE.
On Thursday, December 25, we rested; and ate our Christmas
dinner on the Hill, with Mrs. Good. On Friday, the 26th, went
to all the trading-houses, paying bills at some, and being paid at
others ; collecting my freight sent from Talaguga, all at the most
convenient spot, the English house of H. & C. (the first one with
which I had dealt, in the beginning, in 1874), and inquiring as
to possibilities of steamers to Cape Lopez. On Saturday, the
27th, Mr. Good invited me to sit in the session meetings, and to
preach the afternoon preparatory sermon. Also, the sermon on
Sunday; and he attended to the baptisms. On the Monday, I
paid some of my crew who wished to go to their homes at once.
Others waited for my final departure. Said good-by to Monka-
mi and others.
On Wednesday, the 31st. made the last of my monthly pay-
ments to my Bible-readers and other employees ; and chose
three of the younger ones and the young women Iguwe to ac-
company us to Libreville. It was the custom of traveling mis-
sionaries to take at least one native attendant for their errands,
etc., etc., as the house-servants of the hostess complained if asked
to do extra service. And, Iguwe, the last of Anyentyuwa's as-
sistants, would be needed ; for, I knew that the attractions of her
Mpnngwe home, and the mournings for her relatives would les-
sen her attentions to Mary, at a time when I would be specially
occupied with the annual meetings. Londo was especially help-
ful in packing and marking one of my last loads to the H. & C.
house at Lembarene. When all was done, and I said good-by to
him, he asked for a parting prayer! He was the only native
who had thus asked for prayer.
Thursday. January I, 1891. In my arrangement with Mr.
Deemin, for passage to Cape Lopez. I had expected to be at his
house on evening of the 1st. ready for the voyage early in morn-
ing of the 2d. But, he sent word, delaying the journey until
Saturday. We had New Year's dinner at Mrs. Good's.
On Friday, one of the last jobs of my people, assisted by the
Andende employees, was to draw from the water, my precious
Nelly-Howard, and carefully turn it upside-down in the boat-
house (so that it should not be abused by idlers lolling in it).
It was to await the coming of my Talaguga successor. And. I
would go to Inenga, to the Holt house, for the night, with my
company, rather than waylay the Orirn next day. en route.
That would delav the vessel, as I had so many people and so
THE TASK ENDED 691
many packages. But, Messrs. Good and Jacot, having only
themselves, and practically no baggage, would board the Oviro,
in the morning, on its way, as it passed Lembarene. I made my
good-bys to Mrs. Good on the Hill ; and, loading the last pack-
ages into the Kangwe boat, the Montclair, with a prayer in the
boat (at the request of Elder Agon jo and Ompwenge) and
good-by to Mrs. Jacot, and a waved farewell to all the Kangwe
memories, we were off at sunset, and pulled up-stream to Mr.
Deemin's. One of the last of the daylight views, as we passed
the Eyenano villages, at the head of the island, was of some
Gahva dancers. There were threatening clouds ; and, we did
not reach Mr. Deemin's until 7.30 p. M. But, he had courteously
delayed his supper for us.
TO CAPE LOPEZ.
On Saturday, January 3. 189 1. we were on the Ozriro by six
o'clock sunrise ; and slowed for Messrs. Good and Jacot ; but,
had to delay at the Post, for the vessel's manifest. At the
German house, was lying a new handsome vessel, the Move.
The remainder of the day was a sad ovation, a long series of
shouted farewells, as we were recognized (our intended de-
parture being known) as we passed Wambalya; Oranga, where
Etendi was especially demonstrative : Igenja. where Elder
Awora and Mpenga's people lined the shore ; and Enyanga.
where stood Mbora. And, finally, after dark, the vessel entered
the Yambe, the cross-creek to the Manji (Prince's) Bay. It
was slowly and safely reached from the tortuous creek, by 9.30
p. m., and, then, at full speed, on the top of the tide, we crossed
the bay, looking ahead for lights. When they were discovered,
anchor was cast at 11 p. m. As I was more acquainted with
Mr. Knoch of the German house, I went ashore with Messrs.
Good and Jacot, to find lodging for them : for, the little Oviro
had no sleeping room for them. I returned to the vessel, and
slept on the forward deck.
Before sunrise of Sunday, the 4th, we were up and dressed:
and our baggage was landed. After a slight breakfast. Mr.
Deemin sent us ashore in his boat. We were rather crowded
at Mr. Knoch's. He ordered his servants to give Anyentyuwa
a place in one of their out-houses. It was annoying that his
order was not pleasantly obeyed by them. Nor, had he food for
so many unexpected guests. So, we ate at the Holt house.
Under these uncomfortable circumstances. Sunday travel seemed
a necessity. So that, when a steamer, the Adolph Woermann,
692 MY OGOWK
was seen entering the bay early in the afternoon, we all went
aboard, notice having been brought to us that the vessel would
sail that night for Libreville. Our supper was on the steamer;
we went to our comfortable berths by 10 p. m., and the vessel
started at midnight.
On Monday, the 5th, by 6 a. m. we were aproaching the mouth
of the Gaboon River, and entered it slowly toward the French
guard-ship. For a little while, we feared that we were to be
quarantined, because of some sickness in ports, south of Cape
Lopez, at which the vessel had stopped. As the steamer slowly
moved to its anchorage, we anxiously looked for some boat to be
coming for us. From Baraka Hill, incoming steamers were al-
ways visible an hour in advance; and, it was the almost invari-
able custom for a boat to come, for a possible passenger, or, at
least for news. No boat came. Then, Mr. Good went ashore
in the steamer's boat that carried the vessel's official papers, and
hurried to Baraka to arouse Mr. Gault. (It appeared after-
ward, that the steamer had not been recognized as coming from
the south.) Another of the objects of the Baraka missionary's
customary coming to steamers, was, with a well-filled pocket, as
treasurer, to pay any freight or passage bills. On that, I was
depending. But, the vessel's steward became uncomfortably in-
sistent about the payment of the passages of my people. To
satisfy him, I had to go down into the hold, and unstrap one of
my trunks, to get out what little money I had. Finally, the
Baraka boat came; and we were landed about 1 p. m. On the
way ashore, I was told that Mr. Menkel, who had taken his
three children to homes in the L T nited States, had re-married,
and was returned from his furlough, bringing with him, a white
wife. Even after landing, we were delayed an hour, under the
customs inspection of my large baggage list. No difficulty;
everything was passed without dispute. But, the unpleasantness
of that day continued for a month. At Baraka. the entertain-
ment of the annual meeting was a new role to our hostess; the
number of members was unusually large ; and the Ogowe con-
tingent had arrived unexpectedly soon. It was 5 p. M. before
I was assigned a room ; and, in the arrangements for my native
assistants, Anyentyuwa was so separated from Mary, that she
could be of little help to her. Tt was dark 1>efore all my luggage
could be stowed away. There was however, the pleasant priv-
ilege of meeting new missionaries. Rev. and Mrs. Godduhn, suc-
cessors of Mr. and Mrs. Brier, at Batanga; Rev. and Mrs. Mc-
Millan, destined for Benita. So. every station, except my Tala-
THE TASK ENDED 693
guga, had been re-inforced. And, Talaguga was to be saved
from abandonment, only by transferring Mr. Bannerman from
Angom! It did seem an unjust recognition of the labor I had
spent in the Ogowe. Rev. Messrs. Allegret and Teisseres, re-
cently arrived from the Ogowe, were also guests at Baraka.
When, on Wednesday, the 7th, Rev. Mr. Marling, Mrs.
Ogden, and Rev. and Mrs. Bannerman, arrived from Angom,
up the Gaboon, meetings of mission and of presbytery began ;
and were continued daily. When good old Mrs. Sneed heard
my plans for going to the United States, she felt as if the last of
her friends would be gone. Her daughter had died; the chil-
dren had been sent to homes in the United States ; the hus-
band had re-married, and she exclaimed to me, " O Doctor ! I
wish I could lay my old bones in America!" "Do you really
mean it ? " " Sure, I do ! " " Then, you shall go ; and, I will
take you." (The possibility of all this had occurred to me
months before : and I had written to Rev. Dr. Addison Henry of
Philadelphia, and had been informed of a Home for Aged Col-
ored People.) Her going with me did not remove the necessity
of my taking Anyentyuwa as far as Liverpool ; rather, it in-
creased it. Mrs. Sneed would be of no aid whatever in the care
of Mary on the sea ; indeed, herself would be another helpless
care. The north-bound steamers had no stewardess, to whom I
might look for help, until on arrival at the Canary Islands ;
and, my inevitable sea-sickness would make impossible the con-
stant watching on a ship's deck, required for an active child. On
Saturday, the 10th, word was brought early that the Eclair eur
had arrived from the Ogowe, and would return thither in the
evening. Messrs. Good and Jacot hurried, left the meetings,
and returned to Kangwe by that vessel. I made an official call,
to pay my respects to the new governor, my former friend.
Count De Brazza.
On Sunday, the nth, the dismissed French teacher, Lesage.
who had gone into government employ, entered the church. At
close of services, he came forward to salute the new arrivals ;
who shook hands with him, not knowing who he was. When
lie advanced to me, my memory of his outrageous doings at
Andende. so overcame me, that I did not extend my hand in
response, but only coolly bowed. He went out doors, and began
an angry talk with Mr. Allegret. After the afternoon services,
a letter came to me from Lesage. As I could not read French
script. I took it to my friend Mr. Allegret. He looked at it.
and then declined to read it to me. saying that it was too absurd
694 MY OGOWE
and insulting. He retained the letter. I sent no reply; and
never knew its contents ; though I was afterwards told that it
was a challenge to a duel, for my insult of refusing to take his
hand !
Next day, he sent a letter to Mr. Allegret, quarreling with
him, for the apparent endorsement the latter had made of my
action. Also, a letter to Mr. Gault, demanding a certificate of
character.
I appreciated the kindness which one of the ladies, Mrs. God-
duhn showed me, by her assisting Anyentyuwa with advice about
clothing for Mary on the ocean voyage. I felt this very much.
After all my years from civilization, I did not know what dress
was appropriate even for myself, much less for a child.
On one of the days, one of the French merchants, Mr. Gravicr,
was invited to Baraka with his wife. This unusual invitation
to a trader, was made, I suppose, because of his wife. It was
so rare that traders brought their wives to Africa. When Mary
was brought into the parlor, Madame Gravier was delighted to
see a white girl. While we were at coffee, Governor De Brazza,
with his secretary, returned my call. He too was pleased with
the fact (which he said he had reported to his government) that
it was possible for white children to live in Africa; and promised
to send some fruits to Mary Nassau and Harry Gault. And. on
Saturday, the 17th, the apples and candy came, while Mr. Alle-
gret was taking a photo of the entire missionary company.
On Monday, the 19th, Rev. and Mrs. Godduhn returned to
Batanga station. And, at night, we adjourned our meetings.
The next day, Rev. Mr. Marling and Mrs. Ogden returned to
Angom station. And, on Thursday, the 22d, the Mary-Nassau
went north to Benita and Batanga, with the native brethren of
presbytery, and Mr. and Airs. Menkel. Rev. and Mrs. Mc-
Millan were both sick; and when they recovered they were un-
happy that no arrangements were made for their reaching their
Benita station.
I was then free to make plans for my own voyage, after I
should have performed all my duty as clerk, on the minutes of
the meetings. The monthly English steamer for Liverpool had
gone, on the 19th. There would be at least thirty days before
there would be another. That interval became a trying one.
Sometimes I took walks with Mary to the homes of native
friends, particularly to Njivo (Mbora's wife), who had returned
from Batanga. after Mr. Brier's death. Sometimes shopping at
various of the trading-houses, buying a large quantity of native
THE TASK ENDED 695
curios for my American friends. The twelve boxes of ethno-
logical specimens I had collected for the University of Pennsyl-
vania, I re-marked to be sent by a German steamer expected
from the south.
And, on Saturday, the 24th, Rev. and Mrs. Bannerman em-
barked on the Malaminc, for their Talaguga station. These
two had endeared themselves to me, in a friendship that, without
a jar, has deepened to the present day. Mr. Bannerman's un-
selfish nobility, and the lady's grace, refinement, and amiability,
have made a rare oasis in my African memory. We went to
the beach with them. And, at the parting, Mary too, for what
she had found in her, gave to Mrs. Bannerman, what she had
given to no other white lady, tears. And, I felt that my mother-
task was ended.
CHAPTER XXVIII
FURLOUGHED, FEBRUARY, I&CjI-JULY, 1893
1 CONSIDERED that my furlough had begun. My Ogowe
station was in other hands. I had no responsibility at
Baraka. With all my love for Africa, there was no duty
for her, until I should return to her. And, I looked westward.
One day, with a very bad headache, I strolled for exercise
into the villages, and visited Njivo. When I told her of my
headache, she quietly handed me a small white object, like a
bean-kernel, and told me to rub it on my forehead. Almost in-
stantly, it relieved my pain ! It was menthol ; the first that I
had ever seen or even heard of that medicine. I have always
carried it with me, since then. Uncertain of the Liverpool
steamer, I even entertained the thought of going by a German
to Hamburg.
1 took my company of Alary, Anyentyuwa and Iga, and Iguvve
and her husband, a tour of the trading-houses, and bought them
souvenirs. At the restaurant of the White Men's Club, ordered
a special dinner, where, for the first time, Mary drank ice-water,
and had her curiosity gratified in seeing a collection of geese,
canary birds, pigeons, pigs, etc. French beef-steak was such a
rare thing that we brought to Baraka a piece for Mrs. McMil-
lan ; but, she was too sick to eat it.
On Sunday, February 1, Licentiate Owondo preached in
Mpongwe, and I in English. I also attended afternoon Sabbath
school; was annoyed by disorderly Roman Catholic boys who
were noisy on the path in front of the church door.
The work of careful entry of mission and presbytery records
was still (Hi hand; and also the annual copy of presbytery min-
utes for New Jersey Synod in the United States. Recreated
myself by reading Stanley's " Darkest Africa."
My little girl missed her Talaguga home; there were few
amusements at Baraka. As an alternative, one day, she went to
see the church women at their monthly sewing society, who
were sewing for Mrs. Sneed's journey. Another day, in the
FURLOUGHED 697
evening, I took her to the end of the pier of H. & C, and
watched the waves as they rolled in from the west; and, I told
her of her relatives who lived beyond the setting sun, and to
whom, we were soon to go.
On Sunday, the 15th, I was too sick to go to church. But, on
Monday. I was better ; and, was able to superintend Anyentyuwa,
as she did some re-packing of my trunks.
On Thursday, the 19th, I had finished most of my writing,
and had to do something to relieve the depressing conditions
that existed at Baraka. So, I played on my guitar, with Mary
amusing herself by thrumming on the strings. Mrs. McMillan
(who, with her husband, had recovered from their sickness, and
who were distressed at not being able to get away from Baraka
to their Benita station) came into my room to enjoy it.
I obtained a very rare and very appetizing fish, the Mpongwe
ompoi, which I divided between Anyentyuwa, Mr. Presset, and
Mrs. McMillan; they all enjoyed it. I bought many parrots, to
take to friends in the United States.
On Tuesday, the 24th, for recreation, went on a. walk with
Mr. Presset and Mr. Robert (the new r teacher for Kangwe) to
the Sibange Farm. Anyentyuwa and Mary wished to go with
us ; but, the eight or nine miles of the walk even on a good path,
would have been impossible for them. At Sibange, we were en-
tertained hospitably by the two traders there ; and, after the rain
ceased, we walked back, in time for supper, not as tired as I had
been in the unfortunate walk with Mr. Good, a few years before.
Finally, on Thursday, the 26th, Rev. and Mrs. McMillan,
though still sick from their repeated disappointments, obtained
a sail-boat to take them to their station. And, on the same day,
Mr. Robert and his company boarded the Ecclaireur for the
Ogowe. I and my company were left, the last of the mission
gathering that, for two months, had drafted on the hospitality of
Baraka. And, I looked to the coming of some English steamer,
expected in two weeks.
Sunday, March 1. The day was quiet, except for the noise of
the shouting at the Njembe Dance. This was a secret female
society, of which but little was known, except that some of their
ceremonies were immodest. A certain woman, Suna Moore,
who had formerly stood quite high as a Baraka school-girl, had
degraded herself to accept initiation.
Mary's desultory education continued ; but, as far as I was
aware, she never had been in a school-room, until, at her re-
quest, I allowed her to go to Mr. Presset's; she said she liked it.
698 MY OGOWE
On Saturday, the 7th, a Sierra Leone man, George Rose, came
ashore from a steamer, representing himself as an evangelist.
But, neither Mr. Gault nor 1 had any faith in him. (He proved
to be a fraud ; and, subsequently made much division in a church
of the Scotch Presbyterian mission in the Old Calabar River.)
1 walked with Mary, to a quiet beach up the river, and allowed
her a good bath in the sea. My little girl sometimes asked
startling questions. Watching some parrots Hying by, she in-
quired whether their souls " went to Heaven." The thought of
the United States had no attraction for her. She had only
learned that it was utterly unlike Africa. She asked, "Father!
what will 1 eat there? Are there plantains?"' (I quite justify
her in love for the plantain. ) I was rilling my Wardian case
with rare African plants, for the horticultural hall in Fairmount
J 'ark, Philadelphia. To satisfy her, I put in a plantain-set,
whose fruit she was to eat in the United States !
On Wednesday, March 11, news of steamers had become
definite. The Benguela was the one named ; and it was expected
daily. I finally packed the box of skins I had been collecting
for my dear brother William. On Sunday, the 15th, after Sab-
bath school. Governor De Brazza, lame and carried in a ham-
mock, came to respond to my farewell call I had made a few-
days before. Early in the morning of Wednesday, the 18th,
friend Njivo, coming up the hill to see her sister, signaled to
me, as I stood on the veranda of Baraka house, that a steamer
was entering the estuary. Her sharper eyes had discovered it.
It was the Benguela! After breakfast, went off, and saw Cap-
tain Glasscock, and the chief steward. Purser Fothergill was
ashore. When he returned, I engaged first class passages for
self and Mary, Mrs. Sneed, Anyentyuwa and her child. Return-
ing to Baraka, Mr. Gault sent off such luggage as was ready ;
and, the inevitable last things were gotten together. Rain de-
layed the afternoon start until 5 p. m. Native female church-
members were at the beach to say good-by. With two other
boat-loads, ourselves and our baggage were on board by sun-
down. All arrangements on the vessel were satisfactory. My
company were the only ones in the ladies' cabin. And, they
were all at "dinner" at the saloon table. There was some
delay, the next day, about the steamer's taking on board logs of
African mahogany.
Finally, earlv on Friday, March 20, the Benguela started on
its seven weeks' voyage to Liverpool. The vessel made many
stops on the coast; at some of which, we went ashore: At
FURLOUGHED 699
Duala in the Kamerun River, remaining three days, and we all
visited ashore at a trader's, a brother of Anyentyuwa, who pre-
sented me with an ivory-tusk (Mary has it to-day) ; at Old Cala-
bar, for eight days. There, at church, ashore, I met the Metho-
dist Bishop Taylor and a number of his recruits; at Bonny, two
days; bought a quantity of the pretty Bonny-grass table-mats;
at Freetown, Sierra Leone, where we could not go ashore, being
quarantined by the death of a sailor; at Grand Canary; quaran-
tined, but was allowed to buy from boats alongside. Bought
for Mary, her " Bengy," a little white Teneriffe dog; at Havre;
and took a two hours' ride in a carriage through the streets;
and, landed at Liverpool on Wednesday, May 6. Then, for a
week in Liverpool, where we received most courteous attention
from the Messrs. Holt; in whose care Anyentyuwa and her
child were to remain, until the sailing of the excellent Captain
Fred. Davis, who would safely carry them back to Gaboon.
" On Wednesday, May 13, I, utterly prostrated and helpless with
la grippe, and Mary, weeping in the parting from Anyentyuwa,
we boarded the British Princess, on which there was a dis-
tressing voyage for myself and child. I was in bed, and could
do nothing for her. A passenger, a Miss Brown, of Philadel-
phia, kindly showed her some attention. And, on Monday, May
25, we landed at Philadelphia. And, the first news was that my
dear brother William was dead.
CHAPTER XXIX
THE OGOWE PASSES, 1 892
DURING my absence in the United States, my entire
Ogowe work was passed (because of difficulties with the
French government) into the hands of the Paris Evan-
gelical Society. When I returned to Africa, in 1893, I re-vis-
ited the Ogowe, and was welcomed there by the Rev. Messrs.
Allegret and Teisseres and others of the French missionaries, and
my former employees. And, when I resigned from the mission,
in 1906, I made to the river a farewell visit, which those French
brethren converted into a continuous ovation. That mission is
successfully carried on by my French successors, who, with rare
courtesy, unselfishly recognize my almost seventeen years of
foundation work for their Ogowe.
R. H. Nassau.
700
INDEX
INDEX
Animals:
Antelope, 79
Bat, 90
Beetle, 488
Boa, 265
Butterfly, 205
Canary birds, 696
Cerastes, 220
Chameleon, 219
Chigo, 36
Chimpanzee, 91
Civet, 301
Crocodile, 26
Duck, 31
Electric fish, 198
Elephant, 633
Eye-worm, 146, 255
Flamingo, 3s
Gazelle, 1 17
Genet, 301, 664
Geese, 696
Gorilla, 616, 669
Guinea fowl, 650
Heron, 90
Hippopotamus, 620
Hog, 642
King-fisher, 31
Lemur, 207
Leopard, 61 1
Manis, 317
Monkey, 90
Mosquito, 90
Mygale spider, 138
Owl, 220
Ox, 646
Parrot, 697
Pelican, 90
Pigeons, 696
Porcupine, 80
Python, 79
Saw-fish, 97
Scorpion, 382
Snakes, 69, 626
Turtle, 226
Assistants:
Evangelists;
Abumba, 614
Agonjo, 382, 613
Awora, 627
Kongolo, 147
Makanga, 226
Mbora, 629
Monkami, 658
Ndaka, 666
Xguva, 205
Ntyango, 629
Ogula, 641
Okendo, 620
Ompwenge, 691
Owondo, 635
Petiye, 129
Re-Montigo, 643
Re-Xyiko, 650
Yongwe, 620
Workmen ;
Agaia. 686
Agonjo-amwenge, 244
703
Akaga, 129
Akendenge, 231
Ambamani, 629
Ambangila, 214
Ananga-rewe, 144
Angeka, 616
Ankombie, 667
Aveya, 39, 620
A wore, 410
Ayenwe, 144
Bayio, 228
Bilane, 389
Daniel, 642
Dumawebe, 98
Ekomba, 87
Eliva-ntyani, 199
Etendi, 650
Gasita, 640
Igamba, 207
Ikunduku, 87
Ingumu, 16
James, 628
Jenagani, 144
Kengenge, 70
Lendaginya, 39
Londo, 625
Mamwemi, 207
Manga, 87
Masomami, 75
Mamba, 628
Mangiarina, 642
Mbala, 613
Mbigino, 616
Mbumba, 162
Mhara, 228
Mburu, 293
Mediko, 16
Melumu, 128
Metyeba, 228
Mitimambi, 98
Mpenga, 691
Mwanyatyi, 78
Mwarogaso, 331
Xganga, 79
Xgawe, 674
Xgiye, 660
Xtyege, 252
Xtvindiorema, 247
Ntula, 389
Xjambi, 426
Xtyango, 678
Xandi-kijemba. 92
Ogandaga, 629
Ogula, 199
Oguma, 205
Ombagho, 614
Onganga, 247
Oraniga, 39
Orumbo-ngani, 659
Oselowe, 642
Pendaningani, 331
Piere, 231
Ke-Ganjwe, 265
Re-Mondo, 630
Re-Mbendambya, 65;
Re-Xguwa, 1 14
Re-Xjogo, 627
;4
INDEX
Rere-ntyolo, 678
Re-Singani, 1 1 3
Re-Teno. 1 n
Re-Yayo, 183
Rilevi, 668
Samhunaga. 228
Simbuve, 643
Tivino, 70
I'panga, 81
Zintango, 145
Alembe rapids. 372
Ants, driver, 671
White, 662
Ashanti chicken, 48
Renga grammar, 614
Rlowing a blessing, J4
Ravs:
Corisco, 100
Gaboon estuary, 50
Prince's, 632
Nazareth. 647
Boats, mission:
Christine, 340
Kvangeline, 645
Hudson. 16
Mary-Nassau, 611, 649
Montclair, 601
Nelly-Howard, 211, 637
Swan, 686
Canes:
Cape Lopez, 632
Sette Camma, 648
Cape Verde. 341
Christian Endeavor, 271
Clairvoyance, 665
Convolvulus, 23
Children, natives:
Adza. 632
Akaea. 316
Awethe, 44
Awora, 234
Aworo, 202
Aziza. 222
Rakala, =522
Rakara. 188
Rjdeli. 98
Rilaga, 652
Dupakwe, 105
Ekanga, 105
Icruve, 2,4
Kimagwe, 07
Konea, 215
Makata, 105
Mokun. Q7
Mula. 21 s
Mutyi, ;o
Mwarogase, 1 35
Mveli. 388
N'ambo, 116
Xgara. 388
N'eawe, 317
N'ieca, 632
Ntyere. 258
Nyanda. 27"
Onganga, uj
' hvanga, r 1 3
Oyembo, 253
Re-Nkagu, 320
Captains :
of ocean vessels,
Clancy. 648
J. YV. Davis. 330
I red. Davis, 699
Fawcett. 33s
Cdasscock, 636
Hamilton. 361
Morrison, 360
Thomas, 337
Yates, 335
of river boats.
Ra-hman, 530
Rirchman, 556
Breman, 292
Rryant, 115
DeCirauchy, 130
Johns, 16
Johnson, 650
Eindt. 522
Eudovici. 454
Miller, 226
Oesterwold, 333
Stephens. 287
Czarski, 646
Watkins, 60;
Chiefs:
Aleke, 121
A male, 174
Anege, 53
Anvambe-jena, 47
Aramba, 91
Avyake. 41
Azaze, 676
Esongi, 22
Fanga-nanga. 52
Ibanyi, 48
Tsagi, 650
Tseme, 44
Tvinene, 77
Jongafie. 108
Kasa, 39
Kakamba, 48
Mabe. 46
Magamaga, 657
Magisi, 175
Mamyaga, 375
Mboko. 47
Niagu, 25
Niagu-demba. 370
Xjwivi-njanda, 370
Ntambi, 44
Nyare, 375
Nando, 104
Onanga. 93
On dene. 41
Onwa-ombe, 25
Ra-Noki. 124
Re-Nkombe, 170
Walinja, 134
Dogs. 26. 730, 233. 2-6, 341. 425. 616, 658.
699
Dwarfs. 50
Elephant corral. 293. 294
Eugenie Falls, 213
Evil eye. 24
Freetown, 341
1 'ire-crackers, 216
< '.orcc traders. 139
Government officials :
Moos. Alliot, 38;
Gov. Rallav, 648'
Count DeRrazza. 610
M. Jacques DeRrazza, 424
Mons. Dunot, 547
Mons. DuVal. 014
Mons. Eminent, 465
Mons. Gazengel, 616
Mons. Kerraoul, 616
Mons. Eabastie, 619
I.aplots, 645
INDEX
/05
M. tie Lestour, 424
nr. Manas, 460
T.ieut. Michaud. 424
Lieut. Michelez, 429
Lieut. Montaignac, 429
Lieut. Mizon, 391
Dr. Reol, 678
Highwaymen :
Aziza-njeTe, 150
Xdambenje, 150
Ice-water, 696
Kasa's death. 215
Kangwe Hill. 200
Kangwe Mountain, 375
Lakes:
Azingo, 653
Ezanga, 620
Ogemwe, 257
Onanga, 257
Madeira. 341
Maternal impressions, 265
Mt. Otombo, 374
Ministers, natives:
Etiyani. 601
Tbiya. 147, 649
Myongo, 147
Truman, 511, 649
Missionaries. American :
Dr. and Mrs. P>acheler. 305
Rev. and Mrs. Rannennan, 685
Rev. and Mrs. Rrier, 623
Rev. and Mrs. Rusbnell, 29
Miss Cameron, ^26
Rev. and Mrs. Campbell. 365
Rev. and Mrs. He Heer, 65
Miss Dewsnap, 87
Rev. and Mrs. Gai'lt. 624
Rev. and Mrs. Godduhn. 602
Rev. and Mrs. Good, 610. 638
Miss Harding, 418
Rev. and Mrs. Jacot. 685
Miss Tones, 41
Miss Lush. 87
Rev. and Mrs. Marling, 693
Mr. and Mrs. Menkel. 692
Rev. and Mrs. McMillan. 692
Rev. S. H. Murphy, 237
Miss Xassau. 29. 625
Mrs. Xassau. 350
Mrs. Ogden. 693
Rev. and Mrs. Preston, 14
Mr. and Mrs. Reading. 616
Rev. and Mrs. Robinson. 360, 4S4
Rev. W. Schorsch. 64
Mrs. Smith. 240
Mrs. Sneed, 693
Miss L. R. Walker. 240
Rev. and Mrs. Walker. 14
Missionaries, French:
Rev. Mr. Allegret. 614
Mr. Garmien. 619
Mr. Gacon. 587
Mr. Lesaee. 6^0
Mr. Presset. 634
Mr. Robert. 697
Rev. Mr. Teisseres. 614
Xassau relatives:
Rev. R. IT. Davis. Ph.D., 348
Mrs. Garman. 357
Rev. A. Gosman. D.D.. 626
Mrs. Letitia Xassnu Gosman. 34?
Rev. S. M. Hamill. D.D., 626'
34i
Mrs. Hamill, 346
Mr. Hugh H. Hamill, 348
Miss Maud Hamill, 33J
The Latta Family, 346
Mr. J. R. Lowrie, 354
Mrs. Matilda X'assau Lowrie, 354
Rev. J. E. Xassau, D.D., 349
Mrs. Xassau. 349
Miss Elizabeth Xassau, 346
W. \V. Xassau. M.D., 655
Mrs. Xassau, 675
William Latta Xassau. 253
Charles Francis Xassau, 662
Mrs. Anna H. Sweeney, 45
Rev. W. Swan. 349
Mrs. Emma X'assau Swan, 349
Mrs. Stewart, 357
Edward Wells, Esq., 348
Mrs. Hannah Xassau Wells, 348
Mrs. Mary Wood, 355
Xjembe dance, 697
North star, 340
Orunda, 48
Other Men and Women:
Mr. F. W. Ainy, 649
Miss Brown, 690
Rev. and Mrs. Buxton,
Rev. Dr. Calkins, 346
Rev. Dr. Chandler, 211
Commander Coffin, 540
Rev. Mr. Comber, 240
Mr. Christie. 344
Marquis de Comneigne. 15
Rev. and Mrs. Crowther, 1
T.ieut. R. Dickens, 540
Lieut. E. F. Domville. 649
Lieut. F. J. Drake. 540
Sec"y Ellinwood. 12
S. R. Forman, M.D., 211
Rev. Dr. Freeman. 346
Rev. and Mrs. Fuller, 130
Sec'y Gillesnie, 630
Rev. and Mrs. Goldie. 130
Rev. Mr. Grenfell, 240
Rev. Mr. Griffiths, 130
Mr. J. E. Harran. 21 t
Rev. Dr. Henry. 693
Genl. Herndon, 346
Lieut. X. T. Houston. 540
Consul Jackson, 237
Miss Tohnson, 128
Rev. Dr. Kellogg. 336
S. R. Knapp, Esq.. 210
Baron de Koppenfels, 34
Dr. Lenz. 34
Consul Lewis. 340
Miss Lombard. 685
Sec'y Lowrie, 116
Mons. Marche, 15
Capt. Monroe. 340
T. G. Morton, M.D.. 660
Mr. and Mrs. Patten, 210
Rev. T. Parr. 130
Provost Pepper. 66r
Lieut. F. Singer, 540
Rev. R. Smith, 130
Lieut. Com. Soerry. 540
Rev. Bp. W. Taylor, 690
Surtreon J. R. Tyson, 540
Calvin Wadhams, 21 1
Mis. Williams. 326
Palm-cabbage.
Polygamy. S3
Papyrus, 23
7o6
/
INDEX
Ki\ ers:
Abange, 370
Ajumba, 200
Fernan Vaz, 13
lsango, 44
l.ebo, ? 7 1
Mbilye, 48
Mexias, 13
N'gunye, 300
Nkogo, 3/<
Ogowe, jo
Okono, 372
Ozugavizya, 156
Rembwe, 15
Yambe, 632
Salt. 71
Sea-sickness, 272
Seasons, 622 :
Long, cool, dry (June-Sept.)
Short, middle, dry (Jan. -Feb.)
Rainy (former) (Oct.-Dec.)
Rainy (latter) (Mar.-May)
Skin-disease, 686
Suspension bridge, 46
Stations:
Angora, 693
Andende, 35
Baraka, 616
Batanga, 624
Belambla, 82
Kangwe, 35
N'gomu, 677
Talaguga, 371
Teneriffe, 341
Thieves, 672:
Ampamba
Endondo
Mbigino
Adimbo-suka
Traders, foreigners:
Ahrens, 476
Allam, 614
Rates. 656
Boccaria, 1 1 5
Bohn, 409
Boy, 262
Bramwell, 520
Buscb, 547
C'arlill.302
Carrothers, 585
("rcssman. 497
Czech, 603
Deane, 340
Deemin, 637
Detmering, 190
Dixon, 38
Drake. 655
Krmy, 27
Findley, 140
Foster, 337
(iallibcrt, 404
(iebauer, 47S
fiihson, 404
( ira\ ier, 69 1
Habcr, 603
Harrington, 657
Flervy, (147
Holland. 255
II ..It. 262
Hutchinson, 145
Jobet, 1 15
Jones, 5(12
Knoch, 633
Koflany, 627
Kuhtz, 045
Letz, 636
Louis, 145
Lubcke, 636
Mane, 124
McFarland, 86
M^Taggart, 594
Mooney, 548
Nielson, 125
Neumann, 315
Percy, 31
Quayle, 505
Rene, 408
Romahn, 404
Saiou, 543
Schiff, 125
Schwartz, 263
Schultze, 125
Seddons, 496
Schmieder, 29
Sinclair, 28
Smith, 672
Surry, 278
Stone, 37
Travis, 69
Walker, i ?
Wheeler, 637
Williams, 576
Woodward, 31
Wolber, 237
Traders, natives:
Agaia, 39
Ambura, 216
Angila-kukulani,
Aniniba, 371
Antyttwa, 653
Apoma, 91
Disingwe, 07
Dose, 80
Howe, 255
Isamba, 371
Laseni, 228
Mpaga, 673
Morris, 86
Ndeg-oma, 221
N'treza, 175
Xiombi, 86
Nialele, 662
Xkotnhe-nyondo,
()Rombe-denge, 04
' Inganui, 659
Olimbo, 371
Owondo, 86
Re-Njage. 48
Re-Xjega, or
Re-Mombi, 74
Rikange, 681
Roiromu, 200
Sakweli, 83
Semegwe, roi
Sika. dor
Trading-firms:
I aiimas & (
Hatton & C
1. Holt & (
Stein, 497
T.ivlor, 138
Wocrmann,
Tree climbing,
681
ft. 17
199
1 ices:
('cilia (silk-cotton),
F.hony, ^'.-i
(in in copal, 203
Mahogany, 203
Mangrove, 21
I'andamus. 22
I'alm: bamboo, 22
INDEX
707
caramus, 22
oil, 22
Tribes:
Akele, 643
Ajumba, 110
Benga, 649
Faiiwe, 14
Galwa, 13
Inenga, 113
Ivili, 212
Mpongwe, 636
Xkami, 650
Okota, 14
Orungu, 647
Okanda, 35
Vessels, ocean:
Adolph Woermann, 69:
Africa, 569
Angola, 305
Renin, 336
Benguela, 698
Bonny, 636
British Princess, 699
Cameroons, 648
Cardenas, 335
Celtic, 345
Coanza, 633
Corisco, 361
Eboe. 649
Ella Woermann, 654
Ethiopia, 191
Kisanga, 635
Kongo, 130
Liberia, 335
Magpie, 649
Mandingo, 418
Xubia, 633
Ocean Eagle, 339
Ohio, 360
Ouinnebaug, 540
Roquelle, 263
Venus. 146
Vessels, river:
Akele. 475
Basilique, 660
riatanca. 384
Brazza, 630
Conquez, 472
Duala. 630
Eclaireur, 683
Elobi, 618
Ewaffa, 440
Falaba, 417
Fan, 497
(Gambia, 487
Gaboon, 618
Wm. Johnson, 226
Jeanne-Louise, 644
Malamine. 683
Move, 691
Mnongwe. 243
Xjega, 125
Oka, 651
Okota. 437
Orungu, 218
Oviro, 637
Papilio. 440
Pioneer, 15
Pionnier, 502
Saphire, 555
Turquoise. 497
Yasi, 681
Villages:
Aguma, 636
Akuri, 660
Adali-na-nanga, 6'8i
Abun-awiri, 259
Angala, 650
Aningo-arewe, 629
Aromba, 91
Asange, 614
Ashuka, 265
Atangina, 170
Atangino, 160
Bitaga, 626
Elovi, 621
England, 629
Enyanga, 691
Erere-volo, 370
Esira, 267
Eyenano, 636
G'inigo, 162
Igenja, 90
Inenga, 620
Isangaladi, 372
Isosa, 370
Izyuwa, 629
Lembarene, 617
Lambe, 643
Liverpool, 642
Loango-ayili, 176
Longwe, 667
Magenene, 613
Mbomi, 657
Xandipo, 676
Xgumbe, 27
Xgwilaka, 623
Xioli, 371
Njomu, 613
Xtyuwa-guma, 162
Xango, 650
Oranga, 623
Osamu-kita, 656
Ovimbiyano, 629
Sanjala, 370
Sene, 121
Sibange, 697
Wambalya, 620
Yefia, 370
Witchcraft, 623
Women, natives:
Akera, 127
Anyentyuwa, 610, 640
Anyingila, 94
Apoyo, 654
Arangi-nomie, 266
.\ziza, 610
Azize, 500
Azizya, 195
Beyana, 147
Bya-utata, 50
Charity, 247
Celia Dorsey, 314
Dombina, 628
Handi, 659
Iguwe, 690
Irandi, 558
Irina, 265
Jane, 640
Julia Green, 634
Keva, 516
Lucy, 570
Mburu, 268
Mwanyeno, 613
Mwenanga, 203
X'antye, 655
Xgwanji, 529
X T g\va-njanga, 271
Xtin-osamu, 686
X'jivo. 634
Xyamba, 614
;o8
INDEX
Nwanaja, 43 Ozume, 686
Oka-oningo, 681 Pando, 177
Onivi, 400 Papa, 659
Ovtmbwe, 177 Pawa, 614
Ozenge, 202 Sisingaye, 52
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