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 DIRECTORY 
 
 THE PACIFIC COAST 
 
 THE UNITED STATES. 
 
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 DIRECTORY 
 
 PACIFIC COAST OF THE UNITED STATES, 
 
 BETOBTSD TO XU£ SUPSBBnBmBMT OP THE UNITED ETTATES OOASX SUEVET. 
 
 BY GEORGE DAVIDSON, ASSISTANT. 
 
 Kensington, Penn., August 29, 1858. 
 
 Dear Sib: In offering for yonr acceptance the following Directory for the Pacific Coast of the 
 United States, it may not be amiss to state the circumstances under which it was undertaken. 
 
 For nearly eight years the duties which you assigned to me in California, and in Oregon and 
 Washington Territories, kept mo moving continually along the seaboard in every manner of 
 conveyance, and familiarized mo with almost every mile of the coast, along which my various 
 trips and explorations have amounted to an aggregate of between fifty and sixty thousand 
 miles. I early felt the want of reliable information in tangible form, instead of trusting to 
 memorj", and, upon assuming the charge of the coast surveying brig R. H. Fauntleroy, I 
 determined to embody for publication the information acquired, but several years of failing 
 health prevented the execution of more than regular duties, until the growing desire to leave 
 the Pacific coast forced me to occupy the remaining leisure moments in arranging the matter 
 while yet freshly photographed upon the mind. A small portion was published in San Fran- 
 cisco, and, although abounding in typographical errors, the avidity with which it was sought 
 was a strong incentive to continue the self-imposed task. The result is now placed at jour 
 disposal, and, having examined all the courses, distances and positions, I trust that no essential 
 errors have been overlooked, but whatever have, fall upon my own shoulders . 
 
 My duties having been especially geodetic and astronomical, we naturally preceded the 
 hydrography, and, working in comparatively unknown waters, have had constant occasion to 
 use the lead. When seeking for an anchorage, drifting with currents, or on boat duty, I have 
 almost invariably kept it going from my own band. Several discoveries have rewarded our 
 efforts. 
 
 The historical notices of previous discoveries will be found few and short, as hardly coining 
 within the scope of the present undertaking. The descriptions may reconcile some of the 
 discordancies of the early navigators. 
 
 Very respectfully, yours, GEORGE DAVIDSON, 
 
 Aasiatani Coast Survey. 
 
 Prof. A. D. Bache, Sujierinlaident U. 8. Coast Survey, Waakinglon, D. C. 
 1 
 
REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 Before the recent conquest of California and the discovery and development of its vast 
 mineral wealth, comparatively little was known of the hydrography and geography of its coast, 
 except by the few navigators trading along its seaboard, or the daring otter hunter, familiar 
 with every cove, rock, and headland. All that had been accomplished forcibly showed that a 
 great work had yet to be planned and executed. 
 
 It would take us far from our prescribed path to trace the extent, bearing, and importance 
 of the successive discoveries made during a period of more than three hundred years, between 
 1539, when Francisco de Ulloa first determined Lower California to be a peninsula, and 1849, 
 when the Superintendent of the United States Coast Survey first despatched a party to give 
 definite shape to our shores. If the early adventurers and discoverers made their explorations 
 in small crazy vessels, with wretched and untrustworthy instruments and methods, it is no less 
 true that the first Coast Survey parties made theirs with inadequate funds, and under diflicul- 
 ties and privations that the well-housed Californian of to-day can never fully appreciate. 
 
 The task we have proposed to ourselves before leaving the glorious El Dorado, whose 
 Golden Gate has admitted in ten years the commerce of every nation, and given egress to products 
 worth five hundred millions of dollars, will be, to state all that is known at the present time 
 of the hydrography and geography of the Pacific coast of the United States from the southern 
 boundary in 32° 32' to the northern boundary in 49°, embracing an ocean shore-line of over 
 3,120 miles, the whole divided as follows: California, including the islands of the Santa Barbara 
 channel, 1,097 miles; Oregon Territory, 285 miles; Washington Territory, including the south 
 side of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Admiralty inlet, Puget's Sound, the Archipelago de Haro, 
 &c., 1,738 miles. 
 
 The descriptions of ports, bays, anchorages, reefs, capes, islands, &c., will be given gene- 
 rally from personal observation made during an examination of the coast, extending through 
 nearly eight years. Whatever has not come directly under our own criticism will be taken 
 from the published reports and maps of the Coast Survej\ The names adopted will be those 
 most reliable. Where any changes have taken place, they will be stated if known. 
 
 With these few words of introduction, we may be pardoned in expressing a conviction that 
 the knowledge herein conveyed will be of advantage to our extended commerce, and in 
 assuring the navigator approaching the bold outline of our coast of the accuracy of the 
 geographical positions. No work of the kind has heretofore been undertaken; and should it 
 possess no other merit than serving as a nucleus for aggregating future discoveries and 
 developments, we shall feel that our labor has not been wholly in vain. 
 
 EXPLANATORY REMARKS. 
 
 The longihides of nine stations on the coast have been determined by the Coast Survey, by 
 means of moon culminations, occultations, and solar eclipses. The observations of moon 
 culminations at each station generally extended through three lunations. The latitude was 
 determined according to the most approved methods and with the most delicate instruments. 
 These stations and twenty-four intermediate ones have been connected by means of a large 
 number of chronometers, (from fourteen to twenty-one,) transported by steamer, for the deter- 
 mination of the longitude of the intermediate ones, of which the latitude was also accurately 
 
TnE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 3 
 
 determined in the same manner us the principal onc8. Otiier points, including light-houses, 
 have been determined by triangulatiou. 
 
 Where any position is given to the nearest minute only, it has boon taken from the latest 
 chart of the Coast Survey. The longitude is reckoned west from Greenwich. 
 
 The prediction </ the tidat supersedes the crude approximations of previous explorers. A 
 table and example will be introduced to show the manner of predicting the times of high and 
 low waters at San Francisco. 
 
 Soundings are given for low water. 
 
 Bearings are magnetic. 
 
 Distances are expressed in geographical (nautical) miles. 
 
 Miignelic d^inaiiona (variations) were determined with delicate and reliable instruments, and 
 precautions were always taken to avoid the influence of local attraction. 
 
 Descriptions of lighl-houaes, fog-bells, buoys, Ac, are from the published notices of the 
 Light-house Board. 
 
 COAST DIRECTORY.— MEXICO. 
 
 LOS COBONADOS. 
 
 These islands belong to Mexico; are situated between latitude 32° 24' and 32° 2T, and longi- 
 tude 117° 13' and 117° 18', and lie about 7 miles from the shore. They form a group of high, 
 bold, and abrupt rocks and islets, of which the largest is 15 miles, S. 11° E. from Point Loraa, 
 between l.J and l\ mile in length by one-third of a mile in width, and lying in a NW. and 
 SE. direction. Off this lie two or three rocks to the northwestward. The smaller of the two 
 prominent islets lies N. 58° W. from the larger, and is distant 2J miles. 
 
 In coming from the south, this group affords a good mark for making San Diego, although 
 before being up with them Point Loma shows distinctly. 
 
 IjOS Coronados were discovered and named by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo in 1542. 
 
 PACIFIC COAST OF THE UNITED STATES. 
 
 CALIFORNIA. 
 
 This name is first found in the Journal of Bernal Diaz del Castillo, an officer who served 
 under Cortez in the conquest of Mexico; he limits the name to a single bay. 
 
 The country was called New Albion by Sir Francis Drake in 1577. It was called Islas 
 Carolinas, in honor of Charles II, of Spain, because the peninsula of California was supposed 
 to be an island. The name California was afterwards applied to the peninsula, and gradually 
 wns used to designate the region from the Gulf of California to the mythical "Straita of 
 Anian." 
 
 The monument marking the western initial point of the boundary between Mexico and the 
 United States is on the table bluff rising from the low land south of San Diego bay. It« 
 gec^raphical position, as determined by the Coast Survey, is: 
 
 o / // 
 Latitude 32 31 58.46 north. 
 
 Longitude 117 06 11.12 west. 
 
 A. m. (. 
 Or, in time 7 48 24.74, 
 
4 REPORT OP THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 From the boundary the coast is low and flat, running N. by W. for about 7 miles; thence 
 curving gradually westward until it is nearly east and west at the entrance of San Diego bay. 
 
 SAN DIEGO BAY. 
 
 Next to San Francisco, no harbor on the Pacific coast of the United States approximates in 
 excellence that of the bay of San Diego. It is easily approached, and a depth of 20 feet can 
 be carried over the bar lying between the southern extremity of Point Loma and the tail of 
 the Zuniga shoal. The bar is 500 yards wide between the inner and outer five fathom lines. 
 The existence of a bar at the entrance of this port was discovered by Vancouver in 1793, and 
 in criticizing a plan of the harbor, published byDalrymple in 1782, he remarks: "This plan, in 
 point of correctness, is justly entitled to much praise, but was yet capable, as far as came 
 under my observation, of the following little improvements: the scale representing five 
 nautical miles should only subtend three miles and a half; the shoals of Barros de Zooniga, 
 though well placed, instead of being two distinct shoals ought to have been one entire shoal, 
 stretching something further to the NW. and SE. than is therein represented; and the sound- 
 ings between Barros de Zooniga and the land of Ponta de la Loma, (which is omitted,) are, in 
 no part, from the south extremity of the former, directly across to the latter, more than four 
 fathoms at high water, and form a narrow bar from the shore to the shoal, gradually deepening 
 as well on the inside as on the outside of the bar, with a regular increase in mid channel, from 
 five, close to the shore, to ten fathoms between the two low points that form the entrance to 
 the port."— (Vol. II, page 473.) 
 
 As the mean rise and fall of spring tides is five feet, and of neap tides about two and a half, 
 Vancouver's and the recent examinations of the Coast Survey confirm each other, and tend to 
 show that the depth has remained the same for the last sixty-three years. 
 
 Point Loma is the southern part of the western boundary of the bay, and the termination of 
 a remarkable narrow spur of coarse, crumbling sandstone rising south of Puerto False, or False 
 bay, and west of the town of San Diego, to the height of 300 feet, and after stretching south 
 for about 5^ miles, gradually increasing in height, terminates very abruptly. It is covered with 
 coarse grass, cacti, wild sage, and low bushes. 
 
 Point Loma light-house is less than half a mile from the southern end, and situated upon the 
 highest part of the point, which here attains an elevation of 422 feet above high water. The 
 building consists of a stone dwelling of one and a half stories, with a low tower of brick rising 
 from the centre sufficiently high to give full effect to the light, which is 450 feet above the sea, 
 and was first exhibited November 15, 1855. The light is a fixed white light of the third 
 order of Fresnel, exhibited from sunset to sunrise, illuminating the entire horizon, and in clear 
 weather should be visible — 
 
 From a height of 10 feet above the sea, at a distance of 28 miles. 
 
 From a height of 20 feet above the sea, at a distance of 29 miles. 
 
 From a height of 30 feet above the sea, at a distance of 31 miles. 
 
 The geographical position of the light, as given by the Coast Survey, is : 
 
 O / II 
 
 Latitude 32 40 13.0 north. 
 
 Longitude 117 12 22 west. 
 
 A. m. t. 
 
 Or, in time 7 48 49.5. 
 
 Magnetic variation, 12° 29' east, in April, 1851, with a yearly increase of 1'.4. 
 
THE UOTTED STATES COAST 8URVBT. 6 
 
 Vessels coining from the northwest mnko the ridge of Point Loma as a long, flat-topped 
 island, when about 25 miles distant. This appearance is occasioned by the bay to the south- 
 west, by the low land to the northeast, and by the Puerto Falso at the north. Approaching 
 the south end of the point, give it a berth of about half to three-quarters of a mile in 6 and 7 
 fathoms, passing through the kelp. As soon as the point is passed, a long, low beach of 
 shingle is opened, making out from the oast side of the point and forming a natural breakwater, 
 formerly called Punta de Guiranas by the Spaniards, but now designated as Ballast Point. 
 
 Round up gradually until Ballast Point is brought in range with the easternmost house of La 
 Playa, (distant one mile from Ballast Point and on the same side of the bay,) and be careful 
 not to open more of the village, as the shoal called Barros de Zuniga stretches south from the 
 east side of the entrance, parallel to the ridge of Point Loma, and distant only three-quarters of 
 a mile from it. Between Point Loma and this shoal runs the channel, which is less than half a 
 mile wide within the three-fathom curve. With the least swell the breakers show the position 
 and extent of the shoal, and at low tides part of it is bare. 
 
 During the summer keep as close to Point Loma as the draught of the vessel will permit, 
 and lay on the wind up to Ballast Point, off which four fathoms can be carried within a ship's 
 length, with 10 fathoms in mid channel. After passing Ballast Point steer for La Playa, and 
 anchor anywhere in from 4 to 10 fathoms, with good holding ground. Inside the point, and 
 about 250 yards N. by W. from it, is a shoal spot having only 12 feet water upon it. The 
 shoals on the starboard hand, after entering, are plainly in sight, except at very high water. 
 The channel, however, is buoyed, and cannot be missed. From La Playa to New San Diego, 
 four miles distant, the channel curves to the right and contracts, but about six fathoms water 
 may be carried that far. A mile or two beyond the town the bay becomes shoal and filled 
 with flats. 
 
 Coming from the south, run for the extreme end of Point Loma until Ballast Point and La 
 Playa are in range, as before, and follow the foregoing directions. 
 
 Tides. — The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit 
 and the time of high water at La Playa is IXA. XXXVIIIm. The mean rise and fall of tides is 
 3.7 feet, of spring tides 5.0 feet, and of neap tides 2.3 feet. The mean duration of the flood is 
 Gh. 25m.; of the ebb, Qh. Om.; and of the stand 0/«. 30m. The average difference between the 
 corrected establishments of the a. m. and p. m. tides of the same day is Ih, 20m. for high water, 
 and \h. 6m. for low water. The differences, when the moon's declination is greatest, aro 2h. 4m. 
 and Ih. 36m., respectively. The average difference in height of these two tides is 1.5 foot for 
 the high waters and 2.1 feet for the low waters. When the moon's declination is greatest, those 
 differences are 2.2 feet and 3.0 feet, respectively. The average difference of the highest high 
 and lowest low waters of the same day is 5.5 feet, and when the moon's declination is greatest 
 6.3 feet. The highest high tide in the twenty-four hours occurs about OA. 10m. after the 
 moon's upper transit, (southing,) when the moon's declination is north, and about 3A. 16nj. 
 before when south. The lowest of the low waters occurs about 7 J hours after the highest 
 high tide. 
 
 When inside the harbor vessels are perfectly safe, but during very heavy southerly weather 
 the kelp is said to be driven in in such great masses aa to make vessels drag their anchors. We 
 have never known such a case, and doubt if a vessel with good ground tackle and proper 
 attention would suffer from this cause. Certainly there is not reach enough for the wind to 
 raise a swell, and the holding ground is excellent. 
 
6 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 The primary astronomical station of the Coast Survey is on the round topped hill, 100 feet 
 
 high, and a quarter of a mile W.SW. of La Playa. 
 
 Its geographical position is: 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 32 41 58 north. 
 
 Longitude Ill 13 22 west. 
 
 h. m. I. 
 Or, in time 7 48 53.5. 
 
 The eastern side of the entrance to San Diego bay is low and flat, covered with thick bushes 
 and grass. It is called "The Island," although but a peninsula, being very low and narrow 
 towards the head of the bay. On Ballast Point, at the base of the Point Loma ridge, are 
 visible the ruins of the old Spanish fortifications, &c. 
 
 From Ballast Point the bay runs about north for a mile and a half; thence curves gradually 
 to the eastward for 3 miles to New San Diego; thence to the head of the bay, southeast, 7 miles. 
 The average width of the bay after passing La Playa is a mile and a half, but at New San 
 Diego, after contracting to a trifle over half a mile, it again expands to about a mile and a half, 
 with low shores and extensive marshes and flats. Many years since the San Diego river changed 
 its course during a freshet, and emptied into San Diego bay instead of Puerto Falso, to the 
 northwest. The result was a rapid filling in of the bay opposite the old town of San Diego. 
 An appropriation was made by Congress to turn the channel of the river to its original bed. 
 This was done a few years ago, but the works have not proved of sufficient strength. 
 
 The great drawback in San Diego bay is the want of fresh water, which has to be brought 
 from the river. An effort was made in 1851 to obtain a supply at La Playa by sinking an 
 artesian well, but after boring 635 feet the attempt was abandoned. A similar attempt, with 
 like results, was made at New Town, both confirming the previously expressed opinion of 
 geologists. The same amount of money would have brought it in earthen pipes from the river. 
 During the long dry season the river loses itself in the sand, and the inhabitants are compelled 
 to dig in its bed to obtain their supplies. Fresh provisions are readily procured here. "Wood 
 is scarce and not good. 
 
 The land in the region of San Diego bay is, Avith the exception of a small portion, well adapted 
 to grazing. There are numerous tracts, of limited extent, which produce well, but they are 
 favorably situated for irrigation, the want of rain being very much felt in every section. Back 
 in the mountainous districts is found abundance of timber of many varieties, such as oak, pine, 
 cedar, fir, ash, sycamore, elm, &c. Gold, silver, lead, copper, &c., are found, but the product 
 is not remunerative. A vein of coal (lignite) has been discovered near San Diego, which is 
 reported of excellent quality, and interested parties are erecting machinery to work the lead, 
 but the experiment must prove a failure, because no genuine coal is to be found upon the coast, 
 and in 1851 a report was made against this very deposit. 
 
 "When fishery assumes a practical shape on this coast the harbor of San Diego will become 
 a position of importance. 
 
 Communication with San Francisco and the northern or windward ports is maintained every 
 week by steamer, and by regular lines of sailing vessels. 
 
 San Diego bay was discovered by Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese in the service of 
 Spain, in September, 1542; called Port San Miguel, and placed by him in latitude 34° 20' N., 
 showing the imperfection of the instruments and modes of observing in those days. He found 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SUKVEY. 7 
 
 preat numbers of Indians hero, who received him hospitably, but with cautiousness. It received 
 its present name from Sebastian Vizcaino, who surveyed it in November, 1602. 
 
 In his time there existed a forest of tall, straight oak and other trees bordering upon tlie 
 NW. side of the bay. This forest was said to be three leagues in length and half a league in 
 breadth, whilst to the northwest of it was a good harbor, now known as Puerto Falso. 
 
 From the southern extremity of Point Loma the coast runs N. by W. for 22 miles; thence to 
 Point Lausen, (of Vancouver, 1793,) forming the east point of San Pedro bay, NW. by W. J 
 W. nearly 60 miles. 
 
 At the north end of the ridge of Point Loma is an extensive shoal bay called Puerto Falso 
 or False bay. To the north and west of this the shore becomes compact and unbroken, except 
 by the valleys of San Luis Rey and San Juan Capistrano. The waters off this stretch of the 
 coast Vizcaino calls the bay of Santa Catalina. 
 
 The latest chart of San Diego bay is that accompanying the Report of the Superintendent 
 of the Coast Survey for 1857. 
 
 BAN LUIS RET. 
 
 The Mission of San Luis Rey is the largest in Alta California, and the number of domesticated 
 Indians formerly in its neighborhood gave it the appearance of a large and thriving settlement. 
 It is nearly in the centre of a section of country imequalled for salubrity and productiveness, 
 but the scarcity of rain is an insuperable drawback. 
 
 The Mission is now a military post, but very few men are stationed there. 
 
 The anchorage is very much restricted and unprotected, and now never visited. Its relative 
 position on the coast will be seen by reference to the reconnaissance sheet of the Coast Survey 
 published in 1852. 
 
 SAN JUAN CAPISTBANO. 
 
 Now a place of no importance, with an unprotected anchorage, rocky bottom, and bad 
 landing. 
 
 This Mission, like all the others, is rapidly going to decay. 
 
 In latitude 33° 30J' N., about 4 miles northwestward along the coast from the western point 
 of Capistrano anchorage, the line of equal magnetic dedinaiion of 13° east cuts the shore, passing 
 over the great transverse break of the island of Santa Catalina. This line annually moves 
 southward a mile and a half. 
 
 The geographical position of San Juan Capistrano is marked on the sheet of general recon- 
 naissance published by the Coast Survey Office in 1852. 
 
 SAN PEDBO BAT. 
 
 This bay is well protected in every direction, except against the winter gales from the south- 
 east round to the southwest. During the spring, summer, and autumn, it is an excellent road- 
 stead. From Point Fermin, which is the southeast point of high land west of the bay, the line 
 of bluff runs exactly north and south for about two miles, being bold, and averaging 60 feet in 
 height. 
 
 Vessels coming from the westward through the Santa Barbara channel make San Pedro hill 
 (1,600 feet in height) forming the west side of the bay, as an island projected against the mount- 
 
8 BEPOKT OP THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 ains to the southward and eastward. Approaching Point Vincente,* which is the southwest 
 point of the hill, vessels can keep it close aboard, there being from 50 to 80 fathoms within a 
 mile of the shoret ; round Point Fermin within half a mile, in froni 6 to 10 fathoms, and 
 open the small island called El Moro, or, on the Coast Survey reconnaissance sketches of 1852 
 and chart of 1855, Dead Man's island, run for that island and when abreast of the landing, 
 (readily recognized by the houses on the bluff,) about one mile north of Point Fermin, anchor 
 in three fathoms, hard bottom, and half a mile off shore. Vessels must anchor a mile off to get 
 five fathoms. 
 
 Coming from the south with northwest winds, beat in boldly until abreast of the landing ; 
 keep the lead going and anchor anywhere in its vicinity. Do not approach the low shore, to 
 the north and east of El Moro, closer than one mile, at which limit four fathoms water will be 
 found. 
 
 In winter, anchor further out, and more to the southward, in order to be able to slip the 
 cable and go to sea should a heavy southeaster spring up. We have, however, seen a vessel 
 ride out a very heavy southeast gale of three days' duration. 
 
 Wood and water are not readily obtained, and charges are high. The beef raised here is 
 remarkably tough. 
 
 The geographical position of the Coast Survey secondary astronomical station on the bluff at 
 the landing is: 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 33 43 19.6 north. 
 
 Longitude 118 16 3.0 west. 
 
 h. m. t. 
 Or, in time, 7 53 04.2 
 
 Magnetic variation, 13° 30' east, in November 1853, with a yearly increase of 1'.4. 
 
 An appropriation has been made for a light-house on Point Fermin, and the necessary topo- 
 graphical survey is complete. The site recommended to the Light-house Board, by the Super- 
 intendent of the Coast Survey, is S. 15° W., and fifteen-sixteenths of a mile distant from the 
 astronomical station. 
 
 Tides. — The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit 
 and the time of high water is IX/i. XXXIXm. The mean rise and fall of tides is 8.7 feet, of 
 spring tides 4.7 feet, and of neap tides 2.2 feet. The mean duration of the flood is %h. 18m, 
 of the ebb 6/t. 5m, and of the stand OA. 30m. The average difference between the corrected estab- 
 lishments of the a. m. and p. m. tides of the same day is 1^. 10m. for high water, and lA. 4m. for 
 low water. The differences, when the moon's declination is greatest, are \h. 55m. and \h. 38m., 
 respectively. The average difference in height of these two tides is 1.5 feet for the high waters 
 and 2. for the low waters. When the moon' s declination is greatest, those differences are 2. 3 
 feet and 3. 1 feet, respectively. The average difference of the highest high and lowest low 
 waters of the same day is 5. 6 feet, and when the moon' s declination is greatest 6. 6 feet. The 
 highest high tide in the twenty-four hours occurs about 9/i. 10?tt. after the moon's upper transit 
 
 "Named by Vancouver in 1793. 
 
 •f- When Vancouver was seeking for San Pedro bay he found such deep water off Point Vincente that he thought this 
 could not be near the place; but aft«r getting to the south and east he had a full view of the anchorage. He did not, 
 however, enter it. 
 
TU£ UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 9 
 
 (southjnp) when tho moon's declination is north, luid ubout 3A. IGm. before when south. The 
 hnvest of tlio low waters occurs uhout 7 hours after tho highest high tide. 
 
 The town of Los Angeles is 22 miles north by the road, from San Pedro, and is tho centre of 
 an extensive grazing, agricultural, and grape growing country. 
 
 The quantity of grapes and fruit generally shipped to San Francisco during the proper 
 season is already enormous, supporting two large coast steamers. At all scasons.one steamer 
 finds a profitable trade. The coasting trade of this place is now greater than the aggregate 
 trade of all tho other ports south of San Francisco. Regular communication is maintained ■9nih 
 San Francisco and other ports by steamers and lines of sailing vessels. 
 
 Over 100,000 gallons of wine, and 5,000 gallons of brandy were produced in 1854, and the 
 culture of tho grape bids fair to outstrip all others. Cotton, sugar cano, tobacco, flax and the 
 cereals, yield productive crops; and the olive grows in abundance. 
 
 Salt works have been established within a few miles of Los Angeles, but the pond from which 
 the salt water is obtained is comparatively small. The daily product is about five tons. 
 
 The country at the foot of the back hills is as productive as any in California, but its distance 
 from a large market is a great hindrance to investment and improvement. The vast plains are 
 literally covered with aattle, and many of the rancheros count their yearly increase by thou- 
 sands. These cattle are driven to the mining districts and San Francisco, but during the not 
 unusual droughts of summer great suffering is experienced, and groat numbers of them perish. 
 
 The Bay of San Pedro was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and was called the Bay of Smoke, 
 (Fumos.) .Front Point Vincente the coast trends N. by W. % W. for about 17 miles; thence W. 
 by S. to Point Dume,* in latitude 34° N., and longitude 118° 45' W. ; thence to Point Conver- 
 sion, (of the old Spanish navigators,) 18 miles W. J N. 
 
 Point Duma is a peculiarly shaped point, whose extremity rises into a dome-like form, whilst 
 the land behind it falls away, so that in making it from the west it rises into view as an island. 
 
 From Point Conversion to Buenaventura, distant 13 miles, the coast has a general trend NW. 
 by W., and is low, flat, and sandy, being tho opening of the valley of Santa Clara, through which 
 flows the Santa Clara river. This streiun is nearly dry during the summer, and terminates in 
 lagoons and marshes, but in the rainy season a volume of water is brought down having sufii- 
 cient force to break through the narrow sand beach and flow into the ocean. Tho configuration 
 of tho coast is shown on the Coast Survey reconnaissance sheet published in 1852. 
 
 The erection of a sea-coast light at or near Point Conversion has been recommended to the 
 Light-house Board by the Superintendent of the Coast Survey. 
 
 There is excellent holding ground off Buenaventura in 10 fathoms, but the landing is not 
 good. 
 
 TItc Mission of San Buaiaventura is situated at the foot of the dividing ridge of the valleys 
 of San Buenaventura and Santa Clara, about a half a mile from the shore. Its approximate' 
 geographical position is: 
 
 o / 
 Latitude 34 15 north. 
 
 Longitude 119 15 west. 
 
 Fifteen miles westward of Buenaventura, on tho coast, there is a rich deposit of sulphur, 
 surface specimens of which have yielded 60 per cent. Around the locality are found ashes 
 
 o So called by Vaocourer, in 1793. 
 
10 EEPOET OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 and scoriae. The ground is so hot as to be painful to the feet, and the gas emitted is almost 
 suffocating. 
 
 SANTA BARBARA. 
 
 From San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara the distance is 23 miles, and the bearing nearly 
 W. by N. 
 
 Santa Barbara is an open roadstead for all except northerly winds, which are unfrequent. 
 On'the west side of the long, low, sandy beach is a bold bluff, called Point Felipe.* The hill 
 rising behind it is called La Vigia. 
 
 The landing is on the beach about half a mile east of Point Felipe; the shore is very low and 
 flat as far as the town, three-quarters of a mile distant, but gradually rises to the Mission, 
 which is a pi'ominent object, about two miles inland. 
 
 Vessels coming from the westward first sight La Vigia, and, upon approaching the anchor- 
 age, keep outside of the line of kelp, (here nearly half a mile wide, ) gradually rounding the point 
 upon which is sitiiated the light-hoitse, two miles southwesterly of the landing, keep along the 
 kelp until abreast of the town and anchor in 7 fathoms; or pass through the kelp and anchor 
 on the inside in 3J fathoms, both hard bottom. In anchoring far enough off to get 9 or 10 
 fathoms the bottom will be found sticky. A hydrographic sketch of the vicinity was published 
 by the Coast Survey in 1855. 
 
 No dangers have been discovered in the kelp off this beach. 
 
 With the least swell the surf on the beach is a bad one, not falling square on, but cutting it 
 at a sharp angle. 
 
 In winter, vessels must anchor outside of the kelp, as the gales detach and drive it shoreward 
 in such vast quantities that, coming across a vessel's hawse, it helps to bring home her 
 anchors. 
 
 LIGHT-HOUSE AT SANTA BARBARA. 
 
 The structure consists of a plastered dwelling of one and a half stories, with a low tower, 
 also plastered, rising through the roof. The illuminating apparatus is of the fourth order of 
 the system of Fresnel, and shows a fixed red light, illuminating the seaward half of the horizon. 
 It is situated at an elevation of 180 feet above the sea, two miles southwestwardly from the 
 landing on the beach, and 183 yards from the edge of the bluff. The light, as seen from the 
 sea, will be projected against the hill rising behind it. 
 
 On account of the red color of the light, and the low order of lens, it will not be visible for 
 the range due to the elevation, but should, in a clear atmosphere, be seen at a distance of 10 
 or 12 miles. It was first exhibited December 1, 1856, and shows every night from sunset to 
 'sunrise. The geographical position, as given by the Coast Survey, is: 
 
 O / II 
 
 Latitude 34 23 35 north. 
 
 Longitude 119 42 05 west. 
 
 h. m. t. 
 
 Or, in time 7 58 48.3 
 
 Magnetic variation, 13° 30' east in November, 1853; yearly increase, 1'.4. 
 
 The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Survej' was on the slight grassy rise just in 
 
 ♦'■So called by Vancouver, in 1793; named Point CastiUo on the Coast Survey charts. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 11 
 
 from the beach, and 60 yard^ from tho west side of the rood letiding to the town. Its 
 position is: 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 34 24 24.7 north. 
 
 Longitude 119 40 18.0 west. 
 
 A. m. >. 
 
 Or, in time 7 58 41.2. 
 
 Santa Barbara is a town of considcniblo size, lying in the middle of an agricultural tract, 
 running east and west, at tho base of tho Sierra Concepcion, but of limited breadth. Tho 
 trade with San Francisco is not extensive; but this being one of tho greatest stock raising 
 districts on the coast, vast droves of cattle pass through and are sent to San Francisco and the 
 mining districts. 
 
 Tho Mission is one of the largest and best establishpocnts of the kind in California, and in 
 tho gardens attached to it tho grape and olive were cultivated with success. 
 
 A largo bitumen pit, about 8 miles west of Santa Barbara, empties directly into the ocean, 
 and the bitumen, floating on the water, works against the summer or northwest winds oven 
 beyond Point Conception. Sulphur, in large beds and of superior quality, exists along the sea- 
 board, and manifests itself in all the warm springs. 
 
 Wood and provisions in abundance can be easily obtained here. Water is plenty, but not 
 BO readify procured. 
 
 A very short distance back from the coast lino is a range of rugged hills, over 2,000 feet 
 high, forming part of the Sierra Concepcion, whose sides are sparsely covered with timber, 
 and through some of whose gullies and gorges pass small streams abounding in the finest trout. 
 From others issue warm springs having a temperature of about 117° Fahrenheit, and highly 
 impregnated with sulphuretted hj'drogen. Tho height of tho springs by barometric measure- 
 ment is about 1,200 feet. 
 
 The coast trail to San Francisco passes along the shore for a distance of 15 or 20 miles to tho 
 Gaviota pass; thence inland to the Santa Inez valley, which runs nearly parallel with tho coast. 
 
 Regular communication by steamerB and sailing vessels is maintained with San Francisco and 
 other ports. 
 
 In 1542 CabriUo visited this place and found great numbers of Indians, who came off to his 
 ships in largo canoes, and were quite hospitable. Close to the shore he found an Indian town 
 with "cosos grandes." To it ho gave the name Pueblo do los Canoas. 
 
 Hie coast line from Santa Barbara Light to Point Conception Light runs W. by S., disbincc 37 
 miles. The rugged hills westward of the Gaviota pass come close to the shore, forcing tho 
 traveller to leave the beach for their sea slope, tho trail passing over steep ridges and down 
 deep vsttisB. 
 
 Point Coxception is a peculiar and remarkable headland at the western entrance to the Santa 
 Barbara channel. Once seen, it will never be forgotten. When made from the northward, or 
 from the eastward, it rises as an island, but, upon approach, is fotind to bo a high promontory, 
 stretching boldly out into the ocean, and terminating abruptly. The land behind it sinks com- 
 paratively low, and at first gradually, but soon rapidly rises to the mountains, which attain an 
 elevation of about 2,500 feet. Between three and four hundred yards south of the face of the 
 cape is a large rock awash, upon which some of tho California steamers have struck in very 
 foggy weather. A topographical sketch of the point accompanies the Superintendent's report 
 on the Coast Survey for 1851. 
 
12 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OP 
 
 LIGHT-HOUSE AT POINT CONCEPTION. 
 
 The buildings are erected on the extremity of the cape and upon the highest part, which is 
 220 feet above the sea, and covered with grass and bushes like the land behind. As seen from 
 the southward by day it will be projected against the Sierra de la Concepcion, and appear 
 about one-third of their height from the water. The part of the range behind the light-house 
 seems very level along its summit, and the house is seen about one-third of the length of the 
 level range from the western part of it. The structure consists of a brick dwelling plastered, 
 of one and a half stories, with a low tower, also of brick, and plastered, rising from the centre. 
 The light was first exhibited February 1, 1856, and shows from sunset to sunrise. It consists 
 of an illuminating apparatus of the first order of the system of Fresnel, and exhibits a revolving 
 white light, shoiving a flash every half minute, throughout the entire sea horizon. It is elevated 
 about 250 feet above the sea, and should be visible, in a favorable state of the atmosphere, 
 from a height of — 
 
 10 feet above the sea, at a distance of 21.8 miles. 
 
 20 feet above the sea, at a distance of 23. 3 miles. 
 
 30 feet above the sea, at a distance of 24.4 miles. 
 
 60 feet above the sea, at a distance of 27.1 miles. 
 
 Its geographical position, as given by the Coast Survey, is: 
 
 Latitude, 34° 26' 47" North. 
 Longitude, 120° 27' 00" West. 
 Or, in time, 8A. Olrw. 48.0s. 
 
 Magnetic variation, 13° 50' East, in September, 1850; yearly increase, 1'.4. 
 
 The following bearings and distances are taken from the Coast Survey chart of this locality, 
 published in 1853: 
 
 The rock oif the west end of the San Miguel island, S. \ E. distant 22 miles. 
 
 The east end of San Miguel island, SE. by S. ^ S., distant 26 miles. 
 
 The southwest end of Santa Cruz island, SE. by E. ^ E., distant 40 miles. 
 
 Next to the islands of the Santa Barbara channel. Point Conception is the most prominent 
 and interesting feature between San Francisco and the peninsula of Lower California. It has 
 very justly and appropriately been termed the "Cape Horn" and the "Hatteras" of the 
 Pacific, on account of the heavy northAvesters that are here met with on coming through the 
 channel, with a great change of climate and meteorological conditions; the transition being 
 remarkably sudden and well defined. An investigation of the temperature of the ocean north- 
 west and east of the cape would be highly instructive, as some characteristics would naturally 
 be expected from the abrupt change in the direction of the mountains and coast line. We have 
 frequently seen vessels coming from the eastward with all sail sot, and light airs from the north, 
 in a very little time reduced to short canvass upon approaching the cape, and vessels from the 
 northwest coming before a spanking breeze lose it within a few miles after passing the cape 
 into the channel. These last would be fortimate in reaching Santa Barbara in a day. We have 
 known a vessel to be three days working from San Buenaventura to Santa Barbara, whilst a ten 
 knot breeze was blowing west of Point Conception. 
 
 During some summer seasons the fog is almost interminable, but more particularly among 
 the islands. For the space of six weeks, with clear days and nights at the Cape, the islands 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 13 
 
 hftv© been invisible; rising, however, to an elevation of 1,000 or 1,500 feet, the observer 
 plainly eees the summits of tho islands over the sea of fog which envelops them. 
 
 When tho fogs prevail, they generally roll in from seaward at sunset, and clear away about 
 ten o'clock next morning. 
 
 Point Conception was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called Cape Galera. He placed 
 it in latitude 36^ N. 
 
 The extent of shore-line from the southern boundary to Point Conception is about 250 miles. 
 
 EL COXO. 
 
 Two miles east of Point Conception is tho anchorage of El Coxo, off the entrance to the 
 valley of that name. This anchorage is a better one than that of Santu Barbara, and the kelp 
 is not so compact. After passing Point Conception from tho westward, at a distance of about 
 three-quarters of a mile, run E. by N., and gradually round the bluff one mile distant from the 
 cape, giving it a berth of half a mile; run on a N.NE. course for three-quarters of a mile, 
 when the valley will open with a sjind beach off it. Anchor outside or inside tho kelp accord- 
 ing to the choice of depth; five fathoms being obtained within a quarter of a mile of the shore, 
 with hard sandy bottom. Ten fathoms water will be found half a mile from shore. 
 
 A hydrographic sketch of the anchorage was issued from the Coast Survey Office in 1852. 
 
 There is a large rancho at El Coxo, and it is one of the very best tracts for grazing. The 
 beef has a finer flavor and more delicacy than any we have met with on tho coast. At the head 
 of the valleys and in the mountains is a species of large live oak, very brash when newly cut, 
 but growing hard by seasoning. Willow, for fuel, and water can be obtained here, but neither 
 in abundance. The water is disagreeable to the taste. 
 
 The primary astronomical station of the Coast Survey was on the top of the bluff, and 
 
 between 250 and 300 yards W. J S. from the mouth of the creek. Its geographical position 
 
 is ae follows: 
 
 o ( // 
 Latitude 34 26 56.3 north. 
 
 Longitude 120 25 39 west. 
 
 Jl.ni. f. 
 
 Or, in time 8 01 42.6. 
 
 Magnetic variation, 13° 50' east, in September, 1850; yearly increase l'-4. 
 In passing this valley in 1793 Vancouver saw an Indian village, the inhabitants of which 
 made signs for him to land. 
 
 ISLANDS OF THE SANTA BABBARA CHANNEL. 
 
 The name El Canal de Santa Barbara was given by Vizcaino, in December, 1602, to tho 
 narrowest part of the channel lying east and west, and about 24 leagues in length. 
 
 Until the Coast Survey first examined in detail the islands lying off the main, between San 
 Diego and Point Conception, nothing accurate was known of their number, peculiarities, extent, 
 or position. Upon all maps, of as recent date as 1850, an island called San Juan was laid down; 
 and upon a map of the republic of Mexico, compiled in the United States, and dated 1847, we 
 find no less than twelve large islands, the positions and extent of which are most grotesquely 
 erroneous. The island of San Miguel, the most western of tho Santa Barbara group, is placed 
 70 miles SE. of Point Conception, instead of 23 miles SE. by S. } S. The same general remarks 
 will apply to the roast line as thereon represented. 
 
14 EEPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 Three large rivers are made to flow into the sea between Santa Barbara and San Diego bay, 
 which is increased in size to 20 miles by 15, and running north, whilst two others rival it in 
 extent. A Russian chart published in 1848 has a bay and river on the east side of Point 
 Duma. The geographical positions given previous to the Coast Survey operations are remark- 
 ably erroneous. We recollect well when coming upon this coast of finding in good nautical 
 authority Point Conception over six miles distant from the latest determination in latitude ; 
 and we have heard of more than one vessel reaching California with only a school atlas for a 
 chart! 
 
 In Findlay's Directory for the Pacific Ocean, published late in 1851, we find a description of 
 the already mentioned San Juan island, but it does not give it a very definite location. It may 
 not be uninteresting to state how the error has been perpetuated. The first notice we can find 
 of this island is its discovery by Martinez, in 1789, on his passage from Monterey to San Bias. 
 The next time it turns up is in Vancouver, vol. II, page 474, where the following account is 
 given: 
 
 "At the distance of about eight leagues somewhere about N. 55° W., or N. 60° W. from 
 Point de la Loma, by a very uncertain estimation, is situated an island called St. John's, 
 between which and the coast we passed without seeing it, [although he previously states having 
 seen San Clemente and Santa Catalina,] nor did we observe it while we remained at anchor, 
 excepting on one very clear evening, when it was seen from the Presidio [of San Diego] at a 
 time when I was unprovided with a compass or any other means of ascertaining its direction, 
 and was therefore only able to guess at its situation. 
 
 "It appeared to be low and flat; is but seldom seen from the Presidio of San Diego, and was 
 undiscovered until seen by Martinez, a few years before, in one of his excursions along the 
 coast." 
 
 As Vancouver has plotted this island on the line from Point Loma to San Clemente, and as 
 it is generally so placed, we have no hesitation in assuming that, during peculiar states of the 
 atmosphere, the top of San Clemente or of Santa Catalina has been mistaken for another 
 intermediate island. 
 
 Having visited and examined San Clemente, Santa Catalina, San Nicolas, Santa Cruz, and 
 San Miguel, we found them offering no inducements for agriculture, and very few, indeed, for 
 raising stock, while there are so many advantages on the main. In a few words, we may 
 characterize their disadvantages as want of water, and want of fuel, with high, bold, and rugged 
 sides, which in many places become precipitous. The surface of San Miguel and Santa Rosa 
 is rolling, and covered with grass and bushes; the mountains of Santa Catalina almost inacces- 
 sible, and San Nicolas, and San Clemente, composed of coarse sandstone, presenting a dry, 
 sandy, and sterile aspect. 
 
 On the chart of the coast from San Diego to San Francisco, published by the United States 
 Coast Survey in 1853, a remarkable and beautiful exhibition of the parallelism between the 
 islands and the adjacent coast is presented. The four islands, Anacapa, Santa Cruz, Santa 
 Rosa, and San Miguel, with the rocks 7 miles W. by N. from the latter, lying broad off" the 
 coast between San Buenaventura and Point Conception, have their longer axes parallel to the 
 trend of the shore-line, which is the general direction of the Sierra Concepcion immediately 
 behind it. In Vizcaino' s voyage, this parallelism was noted west of Santa Catalina, " where a 
 regular row of islands exist, five or six leagues distant from each other, all populous, and the 
 
TUE UNITED STATBS COAST SURVEY. 15 
 
 inhabitants trading with each other and the main; and the islands following each other in 
 the same direction as the main land." 
 
 Cortez shoal, the islands of Santa Catalina, San Clemente, San Nicolas, with John Begg's 
 rock, 7 miles from its northern extremity, have their longer axes NW. by W., and parallel to 
 each other; whilst the island of Santa Barbara is on the prolongation of the longer axis of San 
 Clemente. In the third parallel the direction becomes perpendicular to the first described, 
 for from latitude 33^ 05' N. the trend of the coast and hills southward, through the longer axis 
 of Point Loma, will pass through Los Coronados, although the islands lie NW. with respect 
 to each other. 
 
 Navigators, in making the Santa Barbara channel from the northwest, readily estimate their 
 approach in thick foggy weather by the peculiar odor of the bitimien which, issuing from a 
 largo pit on the shore about 8 miles west of Santa Barbara and floating upon the water, works 
 against the summer winds far beyond Point Conception. This set to the westward is found to 
 exist for about four miles off shore, and runs at a maximum velocity of a mile and a half per 
 ho>ir. Further out the current is variable, but even there its greatest velocity is attained when 
 running to the westward. Prom Point Conception it strikes to the southward and westward, 
 being doubtless influenced by a current from the coast. 
 
 Vancouver is the first who calls attention to the oitumen, in the following language, vol. II, 
 page 449: "The surface of the sea, which was perfectly smooth and tranquil, was covered 
 with a thick slimy substance, which, when separated or disturbed by any little agitation, 
 became very luminous, whilst the light breeze that came principally from the shore brought 
 with it a strong smell of tar, or of some su^h resinous substance. The next morning the sea 
 had the appearence of dissolved tar floating upon its surface, which covered the ocean in all 
 directions within the limits of our view, and indicated that in the neighborhood it was not 
 subject to much agitation." 
 
 The following remarks of Sir Edward Belcher, in October, 1839, are taken from the Voyage 
 of the Sulphur, vol. I, page 320 : ' ' OflF this part of the coast to the westward [of Santa Barbara] 
 we experienced a very extraordinary sensation, as if the ship was on fire, and after a very close 
 investigation attributed it to a scent from the shore, it being more sensible on deck than below, 
 and the land breeze confirming this, it occurred to me that it might arise from naphtha on the 
 surface." 
 
 Among the islands, as far as San Nicolas, the current runs to the southward, and there 
 remains little doubt that the steamship Winfield Scott was set out of her course and upon 
 Anacapa by this current. On the Cortez shoal it frequently runs against the NW. wind at 
 the rate of nearly 2 miles per hour. At other times it has been found to run in an opposite 
 direction nearly as strong. 
 
 A preliminary chart of the eastern entrance to the Santa Barbara channel accompanied the 
 annual report of the Superintendent of the Coast Survey for 1857. 
 
 It may not be here amiss to call attention to the abundance of mackerel found in the channel. 
 We have seen the water fairly alive with them, and have caught them by hundreds. Cray- 
 fish of very large size are found in great numbers along the shores. 
 
 The rainy season commences in the early part of November and continues until the middle 
 of March. The quantity of rain that falls does not average over 15 inches. During that 
 season SE. gales prevail, and sometimes during the summer months southerly weather will 
 bring up heavy rain. 
 
16 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 Commencing at the southward, the first object that claims our attention is the dangerous 
 bank and rocks called the Cortez shoal, bearing about SW. \ W. from the southeast end of the 
 island of San Clemente, and distant 50 miles. The extent of this bank has been sounded out 
 carefully and found much greater than the early examinations led us to suppose. Within the 
 limits of the 50-fathora curve the general trend is parallel with the islands of Santa Catalina, 
 San Clemente, and San Nicolas, and it stretches about 17 miles, from latitude 32° 24' N., 
 longitude 118° 59^' W., to latitude 32° 32' N., longitude 119° 17^' W., but curves slightly to 
 the southwest. It has an average and nearly uniform width of 3^ miles. The nature of the 
 bottom is hard, composed of white sand, broken shells, and fine coral at the southeast portion; 
 and sand with broken shells at the northwest. The shoalest and most dangerous part is that 
 known as the Bishop rocks, lying 5 miles from the southeast tail of the bank, and having but 
 2J fathoms of water upon them. Around this danger the depth increases gradually, and in an 
 extent of 2\ miles in the general direction of the bank reaches but 15 fathoms. The geo- 
 graphical position of these rocks is, approximately : 
 
 o / 
 Latitude 32 25| north. 
 
 Longitude 119 05 west. 
 
 From the northwest end of the island of San Nicolas the rocks bear SE. \ S., distant 57 
 miles; and from the southeast end of the island of San Clemente they bear SW. | S., distant 
 46 miles. 
 
 The next shoal spot is one of 10 fathoms, about the middle of the bank, and of limited extent, 
 being only half a mile square Avithin the 15-fathom "curve. Its geographical position is, approxi- 
 mately : 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 32 26| north. 
 
 Longitude 119 10^ west. 
 
 From the northwest end of San Nicolas the spot last mentioned bears SE. by S. , distant 54 
 miles; and from the southeast end of San Clemente it bears SW. \ W., distant 50 miles. 
 From the Bishop Rocks it bears W. 5- N. , distant 5 miles. 
 
 To the northwestward of this latter shoal spot the depth is nearly uniform at 49 fathoms for 
 7^ miles, and between it and the Bishop Rocks the depth is uniform at about 43 fathoms. 
 
 Upon this bank the current is variable, frequently setting against the strong NW. winds 
 with a velocity of nearly 2 miles per hour, and producing at all times a heavy swell, and even 
 in moderate weather breaking heavily upon the rocks. In passing over the bank at night we 
 have been sensible of our proximity to it by the increased swell. In the detailed examination 
 of 1856 it was found that the general set of the current was to the southward and eastward, 
 and the greatest velocity a mile and a half per hour; but no statement is made concerning the 
 prevailing wind. 
 
 A chart of Cortez shoal was published in the Coast Survey report for 1856. 
 The existence of this bank had been reported several times, and the following positions were 
 assigned : 
 
 Swift's island, latitude 33°; longitude 119° 06', as seen by Captain Aulick, U. S. N. 
 Rock, latitude 32" 30'; longitude 119° 06'; no authority. 
 Bank, latitude 32° 28'; longitude 118° 42'; no authority. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 17 
 
 It lies in the direct route now followed by the Panama and San Francisco steainsbips, and 
 was diiicovered by Captain Cropper, of the stoanisliip Cortez, in March, 1853. Ho says that 
 tlio water around it was in violent comaiotiou, and thrown up suddenly in columns at regular 
 intervals of four or five minutes. At first he thought he saw breakers; and occasionally the 
 water broke as on a reef, but he became confident the disturbance was owing to submarine 
 volcanic agency. The ppecimens of the bottom negative this idea. Ho found his depth of 
 water reduced from 42 fathoms to 9, which convinces us that he was on the shoal spot, about tlie 
 middle of the bank, and saw the water breaking upon the Bishop Rocks, the same appearance 
 that be witnessed having been seen many times since by others, and the nature of the rocky 
 bottom and depth of water supporting the assumption. The position of the bank was after- 
 wards closely determined by the commander of the steamship Pacific. The locality was gone 
 over by a steamer, and no depth less than 42 fathoms found; but, upon a more minute examina- 
 tion being ordered, the 10 fathom spot was found, and the surveying schooner assigned to that 
 duty was anchored on it five days. 
 
 Attention was subsequently called to a more extended examination of the vicinity by the 
 clipper ship S. S. Bishop, (now Grey Eagle,) of Philadelphia, striking upon one of the rocks, 
 since called by her name, (1855,) and, under unfavorable circumstances, two points of rock 
 were supposed to exist, to which approximate positions were assigned. In 1856 the bank was 
 sounded out to the extent of 1.30 square miles; and from a consideration of the highly favorable 
 circumstances under which this last survey was made, confidence is expressed that the point of 
 rocks above mentioned is the only one existing; but as it is very difiicult to find detached single 
 points of rock below the surface in a sea way, we shall not be surprised if others be eventually 
 found. At all events the prudent navigator will give this bank a good berth. Ite existence 
 forcibly suggests the probability that other submarine ridges may lie parallel to the coast. 
 
 ISLAND OF SAN CLEMENTE. 
 
 This, like all the islands of the Santa Barbara channel, is high and bold, the southern end 
 being the higher, and gradually falling to the northward. 
 
 The general trend of the island is NW. by W. ; its length 17 miles, with an average and 
 nearly uniform breadth of 4 miles, and 42 miles in circuit. 
 
 The southwest point of the island bears W. ^ S. from Point Loma, distant 60 miles. At the 
 northwest end is a small indentation of the shore-line forming an anchorage, having a width of 
 three-quarters of a mile, by half a mile in depth, with soundings decreasing from 12 fathoms, 
 on the line of a large rocky islet at the NW. side to a point E. by S., to 4 and 5 fathoms close 
 in shore. Kelp will be found in 10 fathoms, but the bottom is tolerably regular and hard. It 
 is anything but a pleasant or safe anchorage in bad NW. weather, and even in heavy southerly 
 weather the swell must roll in disagreeably. A hydrographic sketch of it was issued from the 
 Coast Survey Oflice in 1852. 
 
 Under the SE. end of the island anchorage may be had in the deepest part of the indentation, 
 but the bottom is rocky and irregular. The SE. point is a vast sandstone pyramid, and when 
 it is brought to bear north, and the shore three-quarters of a mile distant, thp anchorage will 
 lie W. by X. ^ N. one and three-quarter mile inside the kelp, in 10 to 15 fathom.s, and one- 
 third of a mile from the narrow sand beach at the foot of the clifls. Outside of the kelp the 
 depth ranges from 10 to 30 fathoms. 
 3 
 
18 * EEPOET OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 This anchorage will afford protection in heavy northwest weather. A chart of it accompa- 
 nies the annual report made for 1856 by the Superintendent of the Coast Survey. 
 
 The soundings around the island show a depth of from 36 to 130 fathoms close in shore, 
 except olf the northwest point, from which a reef makes out about a mile. 
 
 The Coast Survey secondary astronomical station was at the northwest anchorage, on the 
 grassy rise, just inside of the high water line, and bore S. 17° E. from the north point of the 
 rocky islet before mentioned. Its geographical position is — 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 33 02 00 north, (approximate.) 
 
 Longitude 118 34 00 west. 
 
 h. n. s. 
 
 Or, in time 7 54 16.0. 
 
 Neither wood nor water can be had here. The whole island appears unfit for raising stock, 
 on account of the want of water. Very few trees are found, and the aspect is sterile. 
 
 This island was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called by him San Salvador, after one of 
 his two vessels. The present name was given by Vizcaino in 1602. 
 
 ISLAND OF SANTA CATALINA. 
 
 This island rises to a height of about 3,000 feet, and is remarkable for the great transverse 
 break or depression, five miles from the northern end, running partly through it, and forming 
 an anchorage or cove at each side. The land connecting these is very low, say not over 30 feet; 
 but the hills rise up on each side two or three thousand feet, and, when sighted from the north 
 or south, the whole appears like two very high islands. The view on the Coast Survey chart 
 of 1852 shows this very beautifully, and is highly characteristic. The general trend of the 
 island is W. by N. | N. ; its length 17^ miles, with an average breadth of 4 miles to the 
 southern part, and 2 miles to the northern, while the shore-line amounts to about 42 miles. 
 
 The depression in the island bears S.SW. from Point Fermin, and is distant 18^ miles. 
 
 The harbor or cove on the southern side, 5 miles from the northern end, is only about one- 
 third of a mile in width, but its approaches are bold, and, so far as known, free from hidden 
 dangers. To find it, run along the SW. side of the island and make the depression; then stand 
 in for the opening, keeping a little left of mid channel until a third of a mile inside of the 
 heads. From thence keep in mid channel until abreast of the long, low point on the right, and 
 anchor in 5 fathoms, soft bottom. There is a depth of 3 fathoms inside of the low point, with 
 hard bottom, but not room enough for a vessel to swing. If the wind is blowing from the NW. 
 vessels will lose it at the heads, and perhaps require to be towed in. 
 
 The anchorage on the north side of the depression is also small, with a reef in the centre 
 and two large outlying rocks. A steamer could run in on the west side of the rocks, and 
 anchor off the low beach in 10 fathoms, when the reef would lie N. by E. from her, distant 
 an eighth of a mile. Small craft will here find protection from the prevailing winds, but 
 experience difficulty in getting out, as there is always a swell setting in, and the wind blows 
 in flaws and ed4ies on account of the high hills. Between the two points forming the anchor- 
 age the distance is half a mile, and the depth one-third. 
 
 The soundings around the island show bold water, from 19 to 75 fathoms, close in shore, 
 with no outlying rocks except off the north cove. The shores are rocky, and on the southern 
 side fearfully abrupt, but on the northern shore there are several indentations, where boats 
 
TBE UNITED STATES COAST 8UBVEY. 19 
 
 may land at almost any season. Deop and precipitous gulches are formed by the ridges of 
 rofk running diagonally across the island from NB. to SW., and occasionally a small valley 
 varies the scene. Four or five settlors cultivate these spots, but their inconsiderable extent 
 precludes the realizing of anything beyond a bare sustenance. About midway between the 
 NW. extremity of the island and the great break there is a spring of good water, and at the 
 SE. point good water has been obtained by sinking wells to a depth of fifty feet or more, but 
 in the intermediato places water found at the same dei)th is brackish. There is a largo pond 
 on the low land between the two anchorages, but the water is very brackish. Scrub-oak is 
 obtained for fire-wood, and a growth of thorny bushes covers the whole island, rendering 
 travelling very difticult. The island was partially stocked with cattle and sheep, and at one 
 time vast numbers of wild goats abounded, but they have helped to supply the California 
 market with fresh meat. 
 
 Prom the north end of the near largo rock at the north cove, the Coast Survey secondary 
 astronomical station, which was on the edge of the bank, bore S. 25° W. Its geographical 
 position is — 
 
 Latitude * 33 26 34.7 north. 
 
 Longitude 118 28 45.0 west. 
 
 h. m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 7 53 55.0. 
 
 This island was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called by him La Victoria, after one of his 
 two vessels. It received its present name from Vizcaino in December, 1G02, when it was 
 thickly inhabited by a people reported to be very ingenious, particularly in pilfering and con- 
 cealing ; some examples of which accomplishments they gave the Spaniards. Padre de la 
 Ascencion, who accompanied this expedition, gives very particular descriptions of a kind of 
 temple to the sun, with images and idols, found near the two coves. 
 
 ISUND OF SANTA BAKBARA. 
 
 This is one of the only two small islands of the Santa Barbara group. It lies on the line 
 between the north end of San Clemente and the east end of Santa Cruz, and almost exactly 
 halfway between them. From the north end of Santa Catalina it bears W. by S., distant 
 23 miles. 
 
 The extent of the island would not exceed two miles of shore-line; its elevation at the highest 
 part is about 500 feet, and the top has an area of about thirty acres covered with soil, but no 
 water is found, and not a vestige of wood. The shores are rocky and abrupt, presenting on 
 the northeast and south sides perpendicular cliffs exposed to the full force of the ocean swell. 
 
 Landing is at all times difBcult and dangerous. The water around it is deep, and there are 
 no outlying rocks. Its approximate geographical position is — 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 33 30 north. 
 
 Longitude 119 02 west. 
 
 ISLAND OF SAN NICOLAS. 
 
 Of the channel islands this is the most distant from the coast, as well as the driest and most 
 sterile. It is high,, abrupt, and, like San Clemente, comparatively flat topped, but falling to 
 the soatheru end. / The sides are bold and precipitous, and composed of coarse sandstone. 
 
^ REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 Its general direction is W.NW.; its length is 8 miles, with an average and nearly uniform 
 width of 3^ miles, whilst the extent of shore-line is about 22 miles. 
 
 The north point of the island bears SE. by E. from Point Fermin, distant 67 miles; the line 
 passing one mile south of the island of Santa Barbara. 
 
 At the north end of San Nicolas heavy breakers make out two miles and a half, and the 
 soundings towards Begg's Rock show irregular and rocky bottom. Breakers also extend from 
 the southern point to the distance of a mile and three-quarters, according to Kellet. This is 
 doubtless the case in heavy weather. 
 
 The soundings around the island show depths varying from 10 to 48 fathoms. 
 
 Oif the southeast point, which is low and sandy, vessels may anchor in 10 fathoms, hard 
 bottom, with a current running steadily to the southward, which makes the landing bad, as 
 the surf cuts the beach at an acute angle. 
 
 The Coast Survey secondary astronomical station was on the sandy point just referred to, 
 and its geographical position determined as follows: 
 
 Latitude 33 14 12.9 north. 
 
 Longitude 'lig 25 00.0 west. 
 
 h. m. J. 
 
 Or, in time 7 57 40.0. 
 
 This island was not seen by Vancouver in 1793. 
 
 The Begg Rock is situated on the prolongation of the longer axis of the island of San 
 Nicolas, bearing NW. by W. ^ W. from its nearest (NW.) point, and distant 7 miles. The 
 rock is about 40 feet high, bold and well defined, and can be easily seen at a distance of 
 ten miles. The soundings between it and the island indicate the existence of a submarine 
 ridge connecting them. Its approximate geographical position is — 
 
 o I 
 
 Latitude 33 22^ north. 
 
 Longitude 119 39^ west. 
 
 It was named after the ship John Begg, which struck upon a reef near it, September 20, 
 1824, and was nearly lost. The foul bottom is covered with kelp. The position of the rock 
 relative to the island of San Nicolas is shown on the general chart of reconnaissance published 
 by the Coast Survey in 1852. 
 
 ISLAND OP ANACAPA. 
 
 This is, in fact, a curiously formed group of three islands, extending in a nearly B.NE. 
 direction, their entire length being 5 miles. The west end of Anacapa is a peak 930 feet in 
 height, with a base of over two miles by three-quarters of a mile. This is separated from 
 the middle island by a gap ten feet wide, through which boats can pass. The middle island is 
 nearly 2 miles long by 500 yards wide, whilst the eastern island is little over a mile long by 
 500 yards wide. The gap separating the middle and eastern islands is over 200 yards wide, 
 but so completely filled with rocks as to be impassable for boats, which can, however, land on 
 the north side of the island. 
 
 The west end of Anacapa is 4^ miles from the eastern point of the island of Santa Cruz, and 
 bears E. ^ N. from it. The eastern end of the island bears SE. | E. from the Santa Barbara 
 light, distant 28 miles, and from Point Conversion SW. by W. 14 miles. 
 
 Anacapa is in latitude 34° 01' N., and between longitudes 119° 19' and 119° 24' "W. Upon 
 
THB UNITED STAtES COAST 8UBVET. 21 
 
 it the site for a light-hotue has been recommended by the Superintendent of the United States 
 Coast Survey. 
 
 The island is composed of coarse, dark gray sandstone, very rotten and crumbling. The 
 aides are perpendicular, and from 250 to 300 feet high. The main peak is marked on the 
 north side by several deep gulches, with almost vertical sides running from tlio summit to the 
 bluff. The whole formation is filled with innumerable cavities, giving it the appearance of an 
 enormous blackened honey-comb. At the eastern extremity is found a very beautiful arch in 
 one of the outlying rocks. This is well shown in the view accompanying the Coast Survey 
 chart of the vicinity of the island of Anacapa published in 1856. The soil is loose and thin, 
 producing only a few dwarfed species of cactus and a thick-leaved succulent plant common to 
 the seucoast in dry sandy localities. Not a drop of water is to bo found on the island. 
 
 Anacapa is a place of great resort for the seal, sea lion, and formerly of the otter, but the 
 latter have been nearly all killed off. 
 
 It was on this island that the steamship Winfield Scott ran ashore during a dense fog at mid- 
 night, December 2, 1853, in calm weather. The vessel was steaming at full speed, and ran 
 between and upon the rocks with such force that she remained fast by the bow until heavy 
 weather broke her up. The course of the steamer had been taken from Point Conception, but 
 •without a knowledge of the currents. 
 
 Vancouver, in his narrative, calls this island Enneeapah, and repeatedly mentions it by that 
 name; but upon the chart of his survey and explorations it is engraved Enecapah, which has 
 given rise to every variety of spelling. Old Indians at the present time pronounce it En-nee- 
 ah-pagh', with a very strong guttural intonation. 
 
 ISLAND OP SANTA CRUZ. 
 
 This island is the largest of the channel group, and lies broad off the coast opposite the town 
 of Santa Barbara, at a distance of 20 miles. Its general direction is east and west, with a length 
 of 21 miles and an average width of 4 miles, while the extent of its shore-line is not less than 
 53 miles. 
 
 On the northern side of the island, and near the middle, the shore makes a moderately deep 
 curve, forming a roadstead called Prisoner's Harbor, at the opening of a valley, where plenty 
 of wood and water can be obtained. Anchorage may be had a quarter of a mile off the middle 
 of the beach in 15 fathoms, sandy bottom; but there is no protection from the heavy swell 
 setting in with a northwester. It must, ho%vever, afford excellent refuge in southeast weather. 
 A hydrographic sketch of the harbor was published by the Coast Survey in 1852. 
 
 The soundings around the island show deep water close to the shore; but there are rocks 
 showing quite plainly one mile from the southwest point. A chart showing the hydrography 
 of the eastern end of the island was published by the Coast Survey in 185G. 
 
 The island is bold, and about 2;^0 feet in height. Its eastern part is extremely irregular, 
 barren, and destitute of water; and the surface of the northeastern portion is thickly strewn 
 with large angular pieces of stone, broken as if with a hammer. Several species of cactus and 
 some of the coarse grasses flourish. The only wild animal found here is a small gray fox, of 
 which there are great numbers. 
 
 Santa Cruz island is composed of coarse, dark gray sandstone, crumbling and rotten, like 
 that of Anacapa. 
 
22 REPORT OF THE SUPERFNTENDENT OF 
 
 The Coast Survey secondary astronomical station was on the eastern side of the fresh water. 
 Its geographical position is — 
 
 o ' " 
 
 Latitude 34 01 10.2 north. 
 
 Longitude 119 40 00 west. 
 
 h. m. t. 
 
 Or, in time 7 58 40 
 
 From the Santa Barbara light we have the following bearings and distances: 
 
 East point of Santa Cruz island SE. § S., distance 24 miles. 
 
 Prisoner's harbor S. by E. ^ E., distance 22 miles. 
 
 West point of Santa Cruz island S. by W. ^ W., distance 21 miles. 
 
 A site/or a ligld-house at the eastern end of the island has been reported upon and recom- 
 mended by the Superintendent of the Coast Survey to the Light-house Board. 
 
 This island was called Juan Rodriguez by Perrelo, who commanded the ships of Cabrillo 
 after his death, which took place either in Prisoner's harbor or in Cuyler's harbor, (island of 
 San Miguel.) The greater probability rests with the former, as there they could obtain water, 
 and oak wood for repairs, &c. , while neither is to be had in the last mentioned harbor, except 
 water during the rainy season. 
 
 The group comprising Santa Cruz, Santa Rosa, and San Miguel was discovered and called 
 San Lucas by Cabrillo in 1542. 
 
 ISLAND OF SANTA ROSA. 
 
 This is the middle island of the group off the coast between Santa Barbara' and Point 
 Conception. Its general shape is that of a parallelogram, with the direction of the longer 
 axis almost exactly east and west, and fifteen miles in length; and the shorter north and south, 
 giving it a width of ten miles. The extent of shore-line is about 42 miles. 
 
 On the northwest side of the island, and midway between the north and west points, a reef 
 extends out for a distance of a mile and a quarter. 
 
 There is a good passage between Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa, Avith a width of five miles, and 
 one between it and San Miguel of four miles. Both passages are frequently used by the 
 California and Panama steamships. 
 
 The soundings around the island do not show as deep water as around the others. On the 
 northwest and northeast sides from fifteen to twenty fathoms are found two miles from shore, 
 but on the southeast and southwest sides the water is much deeper. 
 
 The outline of the island is bold, but not so high as Santa Cruz. The hills are rolling, and 
 covered with coarse grass and bushes. No harbors exist around its shores, which are steep 
 and broken. The relative position of Santa Rosa in the group of the Santa Barbara islands is 
 shown on the reconnaissance chart of the Coast Survey published in 1853. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of the south point of the island is^ 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude • 33 53 north. 
 
 Longitude 120 04 west. 
 
 For the western point we have — 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 33 58^ north. 
 
 Longitude 120 12J west. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 23 
 
 On some early Spanish charts the western two of the Santa Barbara islands are called San 
 Mijiuel and Santa Rosa, (naming the western first,) and upon others Santa Barbara and San 
 Miguel. The present names and order are those adopted by Vancouver in 1793. 
 
 ISLAND OF BAN MIGUEL. 
 
 This is the western of the Santa Barbara Channel islands, its longer axis lying E. ^ N., 
 and 7.J miles in length, with an average breadth of 2.J miles. The extent of shore-line is 21 
 miles. Its western extremity is bold and narrow, gradually increasing in breadth until it 
 attains 3} miles. The eastern face is nearly straight for 2 miles ; the southern face is nearly 
 straight along its whole length, with higli, abrupt shores; and from 30 to 37 fathoms wat«r are 
 found close in shore. On the NE. side of the island is the small bay called Cuyler's harbor, off 
 which lies a rock or islet more than a fourth of a mile long, and several hundred feet high. 
 From this islet to the deepest part of the harbor the distance is a mile and a quarter, and the 
 couraB SW. Close under the western side of the harbor is anchorage in 6 fathoms, secure 
 from every wind except the north, which rarely blows here. The eastern part of the bay is 
 full of rocks and reefs, and ought to be avoided. The reef in the middle of the bay bears SW. 
 from the west end of the islet, and is distant half a mile. It is the same distance from the 
 west point of the bay, near the anchorage, and bears E. by S. 
 
 A hydrographic sketch of Cuyler's harbor was published by the Coast Survey Office in 1852. 
 
 SW. by S. J S. from the west end of the islet is a rock, with rocky bottom distant a third 
 of a mile; and, on the same line, another half a mile distant. The southern part of the islet 
 is about half a mile from the east shore of the bay. The bay shores are high, steep, and 
 rolling, and covered with coarse grass and bushes. There is no water here in summer, but 
 during the winter water drains down the gully at the beach in the middle and southern part of 
 the harbor. --' 
 
 The western point of the island bears S. by E. ^ E. , distant 25 miles from Point Conception, 
 and SE. by S. J S., distant 35 miles from Point Arguello. 
 
 A seacoast light has been reported upon for this point of the island, and the Subject referred 
 to the Light-house Board. 
 
 Sheep and some stock have been placed upon San Miguel, but the success of the experiment 
 has been doubtful — certainly unremunerativo. A peculiar bobtail fox is found here. 
 
 The Coast Survey secondary astronomical station is on the SW. part of Caylcr's harbor, 
 about forty feet up, on the side-hill. Its geographical position is — 
 
 O I tl 
 
 Latitude 34 03 00 north, (approximate.) 
 
 Longitude 120 20 27 west. 
 
 A. m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 8 0121.8. 
 
 Tides. — The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit 
 and the time of high water is IXA. XXV wj. The mean rise and fall of tides is 3.7 feet; of 
 spring tides 5.1 feet; and of neap tides 2.8 feet. The mean duration of the flood is 6/i. 13//j., 
 and of the ebb 6A. 5m. The average difference between the corrected establishment of the 
 a. m. and p. m. tides of the same day is lA. 40m. for high water, and lA. 9m. for low water. 
 The differences, when the moon's declination is greatest, are 2A. 54m. and 2A. Vim., respectively. 
 The average difference in height of these two tides is 1.6 feet for the high waters, and 2.5 feet 
 for the low waters. When the moon's declination is greatest these differences are 2.6 feet and 
 
24 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 3.6 feet, respectively. The average difference of the highest high and lowest low waters of the 
 same day is 5.8 feet, and when the moon's declination is greatest 6.8 feet. The highest high 
 tide in the twenty-four hours occurs about 8^. 35m. after the moon's upper transit, (southing,) 
 when the moon's declination is north, and about 3A. 51m. before when south. The lowest of 
 the low waters occurs about 7^ hours after the highest high tide. 
 
 San Miguel was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and Cuyler's harbor is supposed by some to 
 be the bay in which he wintered. He died January 5, 1543, having directed Bartolome Ferrelo, 
 his pilot, to assume the command of the expedition and continue the exploration as far north 
 as possible. Ferrelo afterwards named the island in whose harbor his commander had wintered 
 Juan Rodriguez. 
 
 Two rocks, showing themselves well above water, lie NW. by W. from the western extremity 
 of San Miguel, the larger being distant 5 miles. It bears S. ^ E., distant 22 miles, from Point 
 Conception, and S.SE., distant 30 miles, from Point Arguello. Off the inner and smaller rock 
 a reef extends a short distance to the southward and westward. Deep water is found Ground 
 the rocks, and vessels may pass between them. The total extent of shore-line of the Santa 
 Barbara islands is about 232 miles. 
 
 PROM POINT CONCEPTION, NORTHWARD. 
 
 The first headland to the northward of Point Conception is Point ArgueUo* distant 12 
 miles, and bearing NW. by W. ^ W. The shore is bold and compact, curving slightly to the 
 eastward between the two points, and the mountains immediately behind are not less than 
 3,000 feet in height. Two or three hundred yards off Point Arguello are some detached rocks, 
 upon which the steamship Yankee Blade struck and was lost. Near the «ame locality the 
 steamship Edith was previously wrecked.^j^TW, . 
 
 From this point the trend of the coast is NW. to Point Reyes, 240 miles distant, passing 
 tangent to Point Sur in latitude 36° 19^' N., and inside the South Farallone Island light. 
 
 Eight miles north of Point Arguello a small stream empties into the ocean. It was considered 
 by Vancouver the largest he had seen south of the Columbia, but it is insignificant and unim- 
 portant. He states that on the old Spanish charts it is called the Rio de San Balardo. On a 
 recent Russian chart we find it called the river Benardo. On the Coast Survey charts it is 
 designated La Purissima. 
 
 The first point northward of Point Arguello is Point Purissima, off which makes a reef about 
 a fourth of a mile to the S.SW. This is known on the coast as Point Pedernales, signifj'ing 
 Point of Flints, but generally and erroneously printed Pedro Nales. <^- 
 
 From Point Arguello N. by W. § W., and distant 19 miles, is Point Sal,* which is marked 
 by streaks of yellow sand, except at the extreme point. The extremity is formed by high, 
 round, black rocks, off which are several sunken rocks, extending half a mile to the southward 
 and westward. This stretch of the coast is very similar to that behind Conception and 
 Arguello, but, after passing Point Sal, the mountains fall back, and the shore is formed of sand- 
 hills. The general bend hence is north, until the shore commences sweeping westward to form 
 the bay of San Luis Obispo, and the shores become high and abrupt. 
 
 The line of equal magnetic variation of 14'^ east cuts the coast line in latitude 35° 01' N., and 
 crosses the meridian of 121° 30' W. in latitude 33° 55^' N. It moves annually southward 
 about a mile and a half. 
 
 " So named by Vancouver in 1793. 
 
THK UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 25 
 
 SAN LUIS OBISPO. 
 
 Tins bay is an open roadstead, exposed to the southward, and oven during heavy northwest 
 weather a bad swell rolls in, ronderinj; it an uncomfortable anchorage. The landing is frequently 
 very bad, and often impracticable, but the best place is in the mouth of the creek, keeping the 
 rocks at its mouth on the starboard hand. Fresh water may be obtained at a small stream 
 coming ap-«fn the beach half a mile west of the creek. In the coarse sandstone bluff between 
 those two places are found gigantic fossil remains. 
 
 Off Point San Luis, which forms the SW. part of the bay, are some rocks, and in making the 
 anchorage vessels should give this point a berth of half a mile, passing in 6 to 8 fathoms ; run 
 on a N. by E. course, and anchor three-fourths of a mile from shore in 6 fathoms, sticky bottom ; 
 4 fathoms can be got about a fourth of a mile from the beach. In winter anchor far enough 
 out to clear Point San Luis, if a southeaster should come up. During southerly weather landing 
 is frequently effected at the watering place, when impracticable at the creek. 
 
 A preliminary chart of the harbor of San Luis Obispo was issued from the Coast Survey ) 
 Office in 1852. '— ' ^' 
 
 The distance from the rock off Point San Luis to the mouth of the creek is a mile and a half; 
 from the same rock to a white rock bearing N. 70° E. the distance is two and a quarter miles; 
 and a black rock lies halfway between the white rock and the mouth of the creek. 
 
 The Coast Survey secondary astronomical station is on the bluff at the east side of the small 
 fresh water stream, west of the creek, and its geographical position is — 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 35 10 37^ north. 
 
 Longitude 120 43 31 west. 
 
 A. m. a. 
 
 Or, in time 8 02 54.1. 
 
 Magnetic variation 14° 17' east in February 1854; yearly increase 1'.4 
 
 Tides. — The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit 
 and the time of high water is XA. Vlllm. The mean rise and fall of tides is 3. 6 feet; of spring 
 tides 4.8 feet; and of neap tides 2.4 feet. The mean duration of the flood is 6A. 25m. and of the 
 ebb bh. 58ni. The average difference between the corrected establishments of the a m. and p m. 
 tides of the same day is lA. 24m. for high water, and \h. Om. for low water. The differences when 
 the moon' 8 declination is greatest are 2/i. Om. and l/j. 28m., respectively. The average difference 
 in height of these two tides is 1.5 feet for the high waters, and 2.0 feet for the low waters. When 
 the moon's declination is greatest, those differences are 2.0 feet and 3.1 feet, respectively. The 
 average difference of the highest high and lowest low waters of the same day is 5.4 feet, and 
 when the moon's declination is greatest 6.1 feet. The highest high tide in the twenty-four 
 hours occurs about 9/(. 32m. after the moon's upper transit (southing) when the moon's declination 
 is north, and about 2/i. 54m. before when south. The lowest of the low waters occurs about 7 
 hours after the highest high tide. 
 
 The town of San Luis Obispo is not on tlie bay but is situated about ten miles in the interior, 
 in the middle of an extensive and excellent grazing country. Communication is maintained 
 with San Francisco and other ports by regular steamers and lines of sailing packets. 
 
 The bay was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called by him Todos Santos. 
 
 To the northwest of the Bay of .San Luis Obispo rises to a great height the Monte de Btichon, 
 which is readily distinguished in coming from the northward or southward. 
 4 
 
2d REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 We have been informed by old otter hunters on this coast that there exists a sunken rock 
 about 8 miles S.SW. from Point San Luis, and furthermore that they had found kelp upon it 
 in 4 fathoms. On the old Spanish charts an island appears laid do^vn in that direction, but 
 distant about eight leagues. One of the Pacific mail steamships laid to in a southeast gale 
 and thick fog, off Point Conception, and drifting to the northward came unexpectedly upon a 
 sunken rock, upon which the sea was breaking heavily. The commander supposed the vessel 
 to be then oiF Point Sal, and had so plotted the rock upon his chart, but upon being informed 
 of the alleged existence of a rock off San Luis Obispo, he was satisfied that he had been near 
 it, but unfortunately had no opportunity of determining his position. 
 
 This locality demands a thorough examination, as it is in the direct track of the whole Cali- 
 fornia trade from San Francisco. 
 
 From Point San Luis the coast trends in a straight line W.NW., for a distance of 8 miles, 
 and close along the shore of this stretch are several large rocks. Thence the coast trends 
 abruptly to the north, running to the high conical rock called El Moro, distant 8 miles — these 
 two shores forming the seaward base of Mount Buchon. 
 
 From El Moro the shore line gradually trends to the westward, thus forming a deep indenta- 
 tion or bay, called Los Esteros on the old Spanish charts, but designated as the Estero Bay on 
 the Coast Survey chart. It was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and here he obtained wood 
 and water. Behind El Moro are several lagoons or streams, and the high land retreats for some 
 distance, leaving the shore low and sandy, while the north shore is rugged, and guarded by 
 rocks. The NW. point of the bay is called Punta de los Esteros on the old Spanish charts, 
 and bears NW. ^ N. from the west point of Mount Buchon, distant 13 miles. A line joining 
 these two points shows that the bay is about 5 miles deep. 
 
 From Point Arguello, Punta de los Esteros bears NW. by N., distant 53 miles. 
 
 From Point Los Esteros to the western point of the anchorage of San Simeon the coast runs ' 
 nearly straight NW. by W. for a distance of 15 miles. The shores are not so bold as to the 
 southward or northward, and the mountains fall well back, leaving a fine rolling country of no 
 great elevation, and well suited to agriculture. We have seen wild oats growing here over 
 six feet in height^ — not one or two stalks, but in acres. 
 
 BAY OF SAN SIMEON. 
 
 This is a small exposed roadstead, but aifords tolerably good anchorage during northwest 
 winds. The southwest point of the bay bears NW. by W. from Point Esteros, and is distant 
 15 miles. The indentation of the shore line forming the bay trends between N.NW. to N. for 
 half a mile, and then sweeps away to the westward about a mile and a half, gradually taking a 
 southeast direction. The land behind the bay is comparatively low and gently rolling, the 
 high hills retiring well inland. 
 
 Vessels coming from the northAvard may run boldly round the SW. point, Avithin a few 
 hundred yards of the shore in 8 or 9 fathoms, round up to north and anchor anywhere off the 
 sand beach, in 5 fathoms hard bottom, and a little more than a quarter of a mile from shore. 
 The beach is half a mile long, stretching well out, and rendering the landing disagreeable with 
 any swell; but in such cases it is usual to land at the western part of the beach. Eastward of 
 the sand beach the shore-hne is bluff and guarded with rocks. Vessels from the southward 
 must make short tacks close in shore or they will assuredly miss it. The only sure marks for it 
 are the Piedras Blancas, as will be hereafter shown. It was in this bay that the steamship 
 
THE ONITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 27 
 
 Pioneer put in in a leaky state ; was driven or dragged upon the beach, and after being abandoned 
 by the underwriters was got off and carried to San Francisco. The bay affords not the sliglitest 
 refuge in southerly weather. A hydrographic sketch of it was published by the Coast Survey 
 in 1852. 
 
 In making this harbor from the northward vessels must sight the Pkdras Blancas, (White 
 Rocks,) four miles W. J N. of the SW. point of San Simeon. The^ are two large white sharp- 
 topped rocks, and nothing else like them is found on this part of the coast. The geographical 
 position of the outer and larger rock is, approximately: 
 
 Latitude 35" 39' north. 
 
 Longitude 121° 15' west. 
 
 From Point San Luis they besa- NW. | W., distant 38 miles. 
 
 From Point Esteros they bear NW. by W. i W., distant 18 miles. 
 
 Prom Point Arguello the rocks bear NW. J N.. distant 72 miles. 
 
 The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Survey at San Simeon is on the rise just off 
 the beach, and bearing N. 5° W. from the SW. point of the bay. Its geographical position is: 
 
 Latitude 35 38 24.4 north. 
 
 Longitude 121 10 22 west: 
 
 k. m. §. 
 
 Or, in time 8 4 41.5 
 
 This bay is supposed by some to be the "Bay of Sardines " of Cabrillo, where ho anchored 
 and landed in 1542. 
 
 Prom Piedras Blancaa the coast trends NW. ^ W. for a distance of 57 miles, in an almost per- 
 fectly straight line. At a distance of 18 miles from these rocks the above mentioned bearing 
 cuts a bold bluff and rounded point called Punta Gcrrda, off which, and for two or three miles 
 along the shore northward, there are many rocks. This point is the Cape San Martin of Ca- 
 brillo. He placed it in latitude 37° 30' N. ; but, applying the correction obtained from his 
 erroneous determination of San Diego, we obtain 35° 50' N. as the position of San Martin, which 
 is very nearly its proper latitude. 
 
 Continuing on the same bearing, and at a distance of 49 miles from Piedras Blancas, is Poirii 
 Sur, sometimes called Lobos, making out nearly half a mile. As seen from the north or south, 
 at a distance of 10 miles, Point Sur appears as a high, large, round-topped island; but upon 
 approaching it a low neck of land is seen, connecting it with the main. Its approximate geo- 
 graphical position is: 
 
 Latitude 36° 19' north. 
 
 Longitude 121° 52' west. 
 
 Vancouver, in passing down the coast in 1793, thought this "small, high, rocky lump of land, 
 lying nearly half a mile from the shore, ' ' was detached, and that it formed an island. 
 
 Still continuing on the same bearing, 57 miics from Piedras Blancas and 7J miles from Point 
 Sur, another slightly projecting point is passed, about a mile to the eastward of the course. 
 Thence the coast trends more to the eastward, running N.NW. for eight miles, to Point Cypress, 
 and passing Point Carmd, the south point of Carmd bay. 
 
 From Poiiit Argudb to Point Sur the bearing is N. 44° W., and the distance 120 miles. From 
 Point Sur to Punta de los Reyes the bearing is N. 43° W., and distance 118 miles. 
 
 The mountains, which have fallen back behind Los Esteros, gradually approach the shore-line 
 
2S REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 north of San Simeon, and about 10 miles north of Piedras Blancas they come down abruptly to 
 the coast, and run parallel with it to Point Carmel, forming the boldest and most ceHaplete shore 
 that we have yet passed, and attaining a uniform elevation of nearly 3,000 feet. These moun- 
 tains were called by Cabrillo the "Sierras Altas," but at present the range is known as the 
 Sierra de Santa Lucia. From their abrupt faces we have seen cascades falling down a 
 height of forty or fifty feet directly into the sea. 
 
 CABMEL BAY. 
 
 Between Point Carmel and Point Cypress, which are about 3 miles apart, lies the small rocky 
 and unsafe bay of Carmel. At the southern extremity is a small cove sufficiently land-locked 
 and protected for small vessels. In the vicinity there is an extensive quarry of granite, and 
 several small coasting vessels are employed for its transportation to San Francisco; but there 
 is so little space that they are compelled to warp in and out by buoys placed at the entrance. 
 Point Cypress, the north point of the bay, is low and covered with cypress to the water, and 
 is the first wooded point met with in coming from the southward. The upper branches of the 
 trees are spread out by the influence of the strong prevailing winds, and present a flat or 
 umbrella-like appearance. 
 
 The Mission del Carmelo is situated but a short distance from the shores of the bay, and can 
 be seen from the water in certain directions. After the abolishment of the Society of Jesus, in 
 Lower California, by the emperor Charles III of Spain, with the transfer of the administration 
 of the Missions to the Dominican monks, and of the property to the Franciscan order, the 
 Visatador, Don Josef de Galves, of the latter order, in July, 1768, visited San Diego and 
 Monterey, for the purpose of establishing Missions. In 1769 he founded that of San Carlos de 
 Monterey, now usually called the Carmel Mission. 
 
 The name Rio Carmel was applied to the small stream emptying into Carmel bay, by 
 Vizcaino, in December, 1602. 
 
 From Point Cypress to Point Pinos the general direction of the shore is N. | E., and the 
 distance four miles. 
 
 Point Pinos makes out as a low rounding point, bringing the pines, with which it is covered, 
 within a quarter of a mile of the shore, off which the rocks make out a quarter of a mile, and 
 the line of 3 fathoms nearly half a mile, when the depth suddenly increases to 10 or 15 fathoms, 
 and at a mile reaches 40 or 45 fathoms. The 3 -fathom line follows the shore within a third or 
 half a mile into Monterey, whilst outside of that line the depth increases as suddenly as ofl^ the 
 point. Vessels should always give Point Pinos a good birth, as a very heavy swell almost 
 invariably sets upon it. This point is the northern termination of the long and elevated range 
 called Sierra de Santa Lucia, extending southward and forming the bold rocky coast-line to San 
 Luis Obispo. Upon the northwestern part of the point, at the face of the growth of pines, is 
 situated the Point Pinos ligld-liouse. The building is a grey granite dwelling one story in 
 height, surmounted by a tower and lanterny\ The illuminating apparatus is of the third order 
 of Fresnel, and shows a fixed light of tJie natural color from sunset to sunrise. It will illuminate 
 about four-fifths of the horizon, and is elevated Mty feet above the level of the sea. During 
 ordinary clearness of the atmosphere it can be seen from an elevation of — 
 10 feet, at the distance of IS^miles. /'■■' Z 
 20 feet, at the distance of IS miles. 
 30 feet, at the distance of 14 miles. / ?,/ 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 8URVET. 29 
 
 Its geographical position, as determined by the triangiihition of the Coast Survey, is: 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 36 37 68.1 north. 
 
 Longitude 121 55 00 west. 
 
 A. m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 8 07 40.0. 
 
 The primary astronomical station of the Coast Survey is about half a mile eastward of the 
 light, and has the following geographical position : 
 
 o / H 
 
 Latitude 36 37 59.4 north. 
 
 Longitude 121 54 25 west. 
 
 A. m. (. 
 
 Or, in time 8 07 37.7. 
 
 Magnetic variation, 14° 58'.3 east, in February 1851, with a yearly increase of 1'.4. 
 A topographical sketch of Point Pinos is given in the annual report of the Coast Survey 
 for 1851. 
 
 BAY OF MONTEBBY. 
 
 Point Pinos forms the southwest point of this bay, and Punla de la Santa Cruz, west of the 
 town and anchorage of Santa Cruz, the northwest point. A line joining these two points runs 
 NW. by N. ^ N. 19 miles, and the greatest width of the bay, near the mouth of the Salinas 
 river, nine miles. 
 
 From Point Pinos to the anchorage off the town of Monterey, the course is E. by S. J S., and 
 the distance three miles. The shore towards the town is rugged, composed of granite, and 
 covered with a heavy growth of fir; but to the eastward of the to\vn is a long, sandy beach, 
 backed by sand dunes of slight elevation. Off this beach the line of three fathoms lies at a 
 distance of about half a mile, the water deepening rapidly beyond that, and the bottom every- 
 where hard. 
 
 Yessels coming from the northward, bound to Monterey, follow the coast from Point Ano 
 Nvevo to Point Santa Cruz, then run well into the bay, but not too far, for fear of losing the 
 wind, and to avoid the set of the heavy swell rolling towards the beach. Leaving Point Santa 
 Cruz, run on a SE. by E. course about 14 miles, thence a S. course for 8 miles will bring 
 vessels to the anchorage. These precautions are necessary, because Point Pinos, with the whole 
 bay, is almost continually inveloped in a dense fog. Very frequently the coasting steamers have 
 to run for the beach, and then follow the route to the anchorage. 
 
 When the California mail steamships stopped at Monterey they frequently ran outside of 
 Point Pinos, or in very dangerous proximity to it. This led to their firing a gun when ap- 
 proaching the harbor during foggy or dark weather, and upon the report being heard at the 
 fort a gun was fired in answer, and the exchange kept up until the steamer was safe at her 
 anchorage. We were encamped at Point Pinos when the steamship Carolina was brought in 
 by this means, after she had got nearly as far down us Cannel bay. A direct course from 
 Point Ano Nuevo to the anchorage is SE. J E., and the distance 36| miles. From Point Pinos 
 to Point Afio Nuevo the bearing is N. 47° W., and the distance 34 miles. 
 
 By anchoring well in at the western side of the anchorage vessels will avoid much of the 
 swell that comes in with the heavy northwest winds, but never sufficient to make any berth 
 there dangerous. In heavy southerly weather Point Pinos breaks the swell, but the wind 
 draws very strong over the anchorage. The water shoals from 15 to 3 fathoms in a distance of 
 
30 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 300 yards, and the lead should be used to avoid running in too far. A chart of the bay was 
 published by the Coast Survey office in 1857. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of the end of the wharf, abreast of the custom-house 
 at Monterey, is: 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 36 36 17 north. 
 
 Longitude 121 52 27 west. 
 
 h. m. a. 
 
 Or, in time * 8 07 29.8 
 
 Tides. — The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit 
 and the time of high water is Xh. Xllm. The mean rise and fall of tides is 3.4 feet, of spring 
 tides 4.3 feet, and of neap tides 2.5 feet. The mean duration of the flood is 6h. 31m., of the 
 ebb 6^. 2m., and of the stand Oh. 35m. The average difference between the corrected estab- 
 lishment of the a. m. and p. m. tides of the same day is Ih. 44m. for high water, and lA. 
 2m. for low water. The differences, when the moon's declination is greatest, are 2h. 40m. 
 and Ih. 28m., respectively. The average difference in height of these two tides is 1.4 feet for 
 the high waters, and 2.4 feet for the low waters. When the moon's declination is greatest 
 these differences are 2. 2 feet and 3. 7 feet, respectively. The average difference of the highest 
 high and lowest low waters of the same day is 5.3 feet, and when the moon's declination is 
 greatest 6. 3 feet. The highest high tide in the twenty -four hours occurs about 9h. 36m. after 
 the moon's upper transit, (southing,) when the moon's declination is north and about 2h. 50m. 
 before when south. The lowest of the low waters occurs about 7 hours after the highest high 
 tide. 
 
 The town of Monterey presents a very pretty appearance as seen from the water. Imme- 
 diately behind it the country rises in plateaux, diversified by hill and valley, and beautifully 
 dotted by oak groves. 
 
 A Portuguese company has been formed here to engage in the whale fishery, and even with 
 inadequate means it succeeded in obtaining over 16,000 gallons of oil (which sold for $12,000) 
 in less than a year. 
 
 Regular communication is kept up with all parts of the coast by steamers and numerous 
 sailing vessels. Stages communicate with Santa Cruz and all the towns to San Francisco. 
 
 The Bay of Monterey was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and called the Bay of Pines. It 
 was surveyed by Sebastian Vizcaino in 1602, and the name was changed to Puerto de 
 Monte-rey, in honor of the Spanish viceroy of Mexico, Don Gaspar de Zuniga, Count de 
 Monte-rey, who despatched the expedition. 
 
 Following the shore from the town of Monterey northward it presents a uniform sand beach 
 running nearly north, backed by low dreary sand dunes, producing sparsely the coarsest 
 grasses and bushes, and entirely destitute of fresh water. This waste extends to the Salinas 
 river, of which we reach the great bend at about 9 J miles from Monterey. From Point Pinos it 
 bears N. 30° E., distant 8^ miles. From this bend the river follows the line of the beach, just 
 inside of the low sand dunes, for a distance of 4 miles, and then disembogues. From Point 
 Pinos it bears N. 18° E., and is distant 12^ miles. This river has been designated by a variety 
 of names — as Buenaventura, Monterey, and Salinas; but it is now generally known by the latter. 
 From its mouth to the entrance of the Bio del Fajaro, or San Antonio, is 2^ miles, the shore 
 trending to the N.NW., and the entrance to that river bearing N. 11° E. from Point Pinos, 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 31 
 
 distant 14 m\\e». From here the coast runs NW. nearly straight to Ortoa creek, a distance of 
 7 or 8 miles, and about 6 miles E. by N. of Santa Cruz, with the shore rocky and abrupt. 
 
 North of the Salinas river commence rich meadow and table lands, affording to the settler 
 spots unsurpassed for productiveness, even in the prolific State of California. 
 
 An extensive valley, called the Salinas plains, extends inland from the eastern part of 
 Monterey bay, nearly to the Mission of San Miguel, situated on a plateau of the San Bruno 
 mountains. This valley is said to bo nearly 90 miles in length, and in breadth varying from 
 two to ten. It contijins some 200,000 acres of good agricultural lands, and the remainder 
 affords excellent pasturage for horned stock, horses, and sheep. 
 
 The line of equal magnetic variation of 15° east cuts the coast line of Monterey bay in latitude 
 36° 45' N., about halfway between the great bend and mouth of the Salinas river, and crosses 
 the meridian of 123° 0' W., in latitude 36° 36' N. This line moves annually southward about 
 a mile and a half. 
 
 8ANTA CRUZ HABBOK. 
 
 This harbor or anchorage is at the northwest part of the bay of Monterey, and is of very 
 limited extent. It is protected from all the winds from the northward, but exposed to the 
 full sweep of southerly gales, and many coasters have been driven ashore during the winter 
 season. It is about three quarters of a mile in depth northward, by 1 J mile east and west. 
 
 Vessels coming from the northward, after leaving Point Ano Nuevo, follow the coast line on 
 a general course E.SE. for about 18 miles. The shore for this distance is abrupt, jagged, and 
 moderately elevated, with a range of high hills, or mountains, whose summits ^aro almost con- 
 tinually enveloped in fog. Skirting the shore at a distance of half a mile a depth of 6 to 10 
 fathoms can be carried, and upon making Point Santa Cruz, the top of which is moderately 
 level for some distance back, 4 fathoms are obtained within a quarter of a mile of it; round up 
 and run along in 5 fathoms until abreast of the beach, where good anchorage will bo found half 
 a mile from shore. 
 
 Vessels from the south in summer keep well into Monterey bay, to escape the full force of 
 the northwesters and the heavy head sea. 
 
 During the winter months anchor well out, so as to be able to clear the shore westward of 
 Point Santa Cruz in case a southeaster springs up. 
 
 Landing on the beach is generally disagreeable, as it extends out some distance, but boats 
 usually land at the Embarcadero, at the foot of the bluff in the NW. part of the harbor. 
 
 The beach is over half a mile in length, and between its eastern extremity and the bluff 
 point empties the San Lorenzo river, a small stream running past the town and mission, which 
 is situated a mile inland. 
 
 A hydrographic sketch of the harbor was published in the Coast Survey report for 1854. 
 
 The country about Santa Cruz is exceedingly productive, and now thickly settled. A 
 steamer runs regularly in the trade between this place and San Francisco, and nomeroos 
 coasters find abundant freight from here and the Pajaro country to San Francisco. 
 
 Begnlar stage communication is maintained with San Francisco and Monterey. 
 
 The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Survey was at the top of the bluff at tha 
 Embarcadero. Its geographical position is — 
 
32 EEPORT OF THE SUPEHINTENDENT OF 
 
 o ' " 
 
 Latitude 36 57 26.9 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 00 10 west. 
 
 A. m. t. 
 
 Or, in time 8 08 00.7 
 
 An examination for the location of a harbor light has been made, and the site recommended 
 to the Light-house Board by the Superintendent of the Coast Survey. 
 
 Tides. The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit 
 
 and the time of high water is XJi. XVIIIm. The mean rise and fall of tides is 4. 1 feet; of spring 
 tides, 5.5 feet; and of neap tides, 2.9 feet. The mean duration of the flood is 6A. 47m.; of the 
 ebb, 5/i. 45m. ; and of the stand, Oh. 20m. The average difi"erence between the corrected estab- 
 lishment of the a. m. and p. m, tides of the same day is 1/t. 44m. for high water, and Ih. 2m. for 
 low water. The differences, when the moon's declination is greatest, are 2h. 40m. and 1/i. 28m., 
 respectively. The average difference in height of these two tides is 1.4 feet for the high 
 waters, and 2.4 feet for the low waters. When the moon's declination is greatest these differ, 
 ences are 2.2 feet and 3.7 feet, respectively. The average difference of the highest high and 
 lowest low waters of the same day is 6.0 feet, and when the moon's declination is greatest, 7.0 
 feet. The highest high tide in the twenty-four hours occurs about 9A. 32m. after the moon's 
 upper transit, (southing, ) when the moon's declination is north, and about 2h. 54m. before, when 
 south. The lowest of the low waters occurs about Ih. after the highest high tide. 
 
 It was off Point Santa Cruz that Cabrillo is supposed to have anchored on the I7th of November, 
 1542, upon his return from the northward. 
 
 From Point Santa Cruz to Point Ano Nuevo the distance is 18 miles, and the general direc- 
 tion W. by N. I N. , at first curving to the south westward of that course, and then to the north- 
 ward until within 3 miles of the rock of Point Afio Nuevo, when the shore curves well to westward, 
 (for the last mile to the southwest,) forming an anchorage protected somewhat against the 
 heavy swell from the northwest, and having a depth of five fathoms within less than half a mile 
 of the shore, and from 10 to 15 fathoms at the distance of a mile. 
 
 At a quarter of a mile from the point lies a black jagged islet, consisting of a sloping ledge 
 of rocks covered with a stratum of yellow clay about four feet thick, and this again covered with 
 a mound of sand about 30 feet high. Upon this the erection of a light-house has been recom- 
 mended. The point itself is composed of rolling hills of shifting sand, varying from 20 to 100 
 feet in height, while behind them rises the Santa Cruz range of mountains. The coast trail, 
 which followed the beach from the southward, here strikes up the hills behind the sand dunes. 
 
 A sketch of the point is given in the Coast Survey report for 1854. 
 
 Between Ano Nuevo and the valley of the Pescador, (a small stream running through a valley 
 of inconsiderable extent,) the general formation of the seaboard is that of a table-land of three 
 terraces, the lowest gradually sloping from the base of the second to the coast, which is exceed- 
 ingly rocky and forbidding. The underlying stratum is sandstone. The country between the 
 valley of the Pescador and that of the San Gregoria (another small stream) undergoes a striking 
 change, both in the character of its topography and its geology. Instead of the table-land we 
 meet with a spur of the coast hills, running into the sea, and having an elevation of 300 feet. 
 The shore-line and the country generally present a very broken and rugged appearance, 
 occasioned by the deep gulches that cut through to the ocean. 
 
 From Point Aiio Nuevo to the Boll Boat, outside of the bar off the entrance to San Francisco 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 83 
 
 bay, the distance is 40 miles, and the course NW. by N. Ten miles from the point this line 
 passes tangent to I'oint Miramonte«, the shore being compact and tolerably straight until it 
 reaches Miratonntes, wh o t c a contracted anchorage exists, called Half Moon bay, whence small 
 ooasters carry the agricultural produce of the country to San Francisco. 
 
 Continuing on this course (NW. by N.) 30 miles from Point Ai!o Nuevo, the prominent 
 headland called Point San Pedro is passed at a distance of two miles. This point is a black, 
 abrupt, rocky promontory, over 600 feet high, having largo, high, jagged rocks at the northern 
 part, and is an excellent mark for making the entrance to San Francisco bay. (^At the last 
 position off San Pedro the bell boat on the bar is distant about 12 miles. Prom the bell boat, 
 Fort Point (two miles inside the south head formed by Point Lobos) is on with Alcatraz island, \ 
 
 inside of the harbor. Fort Point and Alcatraz island have Harbor Lights upon them, and are . ^i 
 
 the fair way lino for crossing the bar. The rock off San Pedro is nearly a hundred feet / 
 high. Its south face is white and shows the line of stratification plainly. From the west the 
 dip of the strata shows about 60 degrees to the northward. It is connected with the main by / 
 some low rocks. Half a mile to the northeast of the point is the valley of San Pedro. 
 
 The range of mountains forming the northeastern shore of Monterey bay and extending to 
 SantA Cruz and Point ABo Nuevo is called Santa Cmz. Thence northward to the Golden Gate, 
 and forming the peninsula of San Francisco by bounding the bay on the west, the mountains 
 are known as the San Francisco or San Bruno range. 
 
 The extent of shore-line from Point Conception to Point Boneta is about 286 miles. 
 
 BAT OP SAN FRANCISCO AND APPROACHES. 
 
 This bay affords the finest and most commodious harbor on the Pacific coast of the United 
 States. From its discoverj' it has commanded the admiration of navigators, and since the 
 wonderful rise of California has well sustained its reputation. Its geographical position, its 
 size and depth of water, its noble entrance and bold shores, the Sacramento and tributaries, 
 draining the rich agricultural valleys and auriferous slopes of the Sierra Nevada, the magic 
 city upon its shores, and the salubrity of its climate, have conspired to make it emphatically 
 the port of the Pacific. 
 
 The Golden Gale is the entrance to the bay, and presents the character of a great cleft or 
 fissure in the sea coast range of mountains, thereby connecting the Bay of San Francisco with 
 the Pacific Ocean. On approaching, it is difficult to imagine that a deep channel lies ahead, 
 so clear is the atmosphere and so well defined the Contra Costa mountains behind the bay. 
 Both shores are bold, broken into points, and rocky; but the northern is much the bolder, 
 rising almost perpendicularly from the water, attaining an elevation of about 1,000 feet, but a 
 short distance back, and in 7 miles rising to 2,600 feet. On the south side, between the points, 
 are stretches of low beach; the hills are undulating and of moderate elevation, increasing very 
 gradually in altitude to the southward, and reaching a height of 1,200 feet in about six or eight 
 miles. The chart of San Francisco entrance, which accompanies the Annual Coast Survey 
 Report for 1856, shows the bold and characteristic topography of the vicinity of the Golden 
 Gate. 
 
 Point Boneta. — The north head of the entrance is formed by this point; a narrow, precipitous, 
 
 rocky cape, nearly 300 feet high, and stretching from the ZAght Howte about half a mile to' the 
 
 SE. Behind it the mquntains rise rapidly to an elevation of 1,500 feet. There are no dangers 
 
 off the point, the line of 3 fathoms rarely extending 300 yards from any portion of it. When 
 
 5 e 
 
34 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 the clipper ship San Francisco was lost on this head, we are told that she first struck the Uuff 
 on the inside of the point, was carried by the currents around the point, and then cast ashore 
 on the outside. The reef, or line of sunken rocks, stretching out three-quarters of a mile upon 
 some maps, has no existence, and only serves to mislead those unacquainted with the locality. 
 From 5 to 6 fathoms can be found on every side of it within a fifth of a mile. 
 
 One mile and seven-eights NW. of the point the steamship Tennessee went ashore whilst 
 endeavoring to find the entrance in a thick fog, (calm weather,) and was lost. The Cortez had 
 got in just before her, and as the fog was shutting down over the entrance. 
 
 Light-house at Point Boneta. — The building is situated nearly half a mile from the extremity 
 of the point, and consists of a brick tower painted white, and surmounted by a lantern painted 
 black. From seaward it is seen projected against the dark, high hills behind it, and in clear 
 weather is a very plain object. The illuminating apparatus is of the second order of the system 
 of Fresnel, was first exhibited April 30, 1855, and shows & fixed light of the natural color from 
 sunset to sunrise. It illuminates five sixths of the horizon, and is elevated about 306 feet above 
 the level of the sea. During ordinary conditions of the atmosphere it can be seen from an 
 elevation of — 
 
 10 feet at a distance of 23.6 miles. 
 
 20 feet at a distance of 25. 1 miles. 
 
 SO feet at a distance of 26.3 miles. 
 
 50 feet at a distance of 28.1 miles. 
 
 Its geographical position, as determined by the triangulation of the Coast Survey is — • 
 
 o / '/ 
 
 Latitude 37 49 10.0 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 30 50.3 west. 
 
 h. m. 3. 
 
 Or, in time 8 10 03.4. 
 
 Magnetic variation 15° 27' east in 1852. 
 
 From the light at Point Boneta to that on Fort Point the distance is 2§ miles, and bearing 
 E. |N. 
 
 Fog-hell at Point Boneta. — The bell, with the machinery, is in a frame building, open in 
 front, and placed on the bluif just in advance of the light-house tower, at an elevation of 270 
 feet above the level of the sea. The bell weighs 1,500 pounds, and during foggy and 
 thick weather is struck six blows, at intervals of sixteen seconds each, followed by a pause of 
 forty-four seconds. 
 
 The fog-gun at Point Boneta has been discontinued since the placing of the bdl-boat outside 
 the bar, March 18, 1858. It may not, however, be amiss to state here the design of the fog- 
 gun. A twenty-four pounder was placed near the light-house, and during fogs or thick weather, 
 either day or night, was fired at the hours and half hours of San Francisco mean time. It 
 enabled vessels, before reaching the bar, to get the bearing of Point Boneta, and, by the 
 loudness of the report, or better, by the soundings, to form an estimate of their distance 
 from it. 
 
 We advocated this plan strongly soon after our arrival upon the coast, and it met with the 
 hearty support and commendation of ofiBcers of the navy and commanders of the steamships, 
 clippers, and coasters. Continuing to urge its adoption until the spring of 1855, we had the 
 satisfaction of seeing it tried in August of that year. We have since learned, by British news- 
 papers, that the Board of Trade and Liverpool Corporation have placed a gun of large calibre 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SUBVET. 35 
 
 on Holyhead, to be fired during foggy weather, for the benefit of mail steaman )pMnng up the 
 Irish channel. 
 
 Foini Lobos. — The south head of the entrance to San Francisco bay is formed by this point, 
 upon which Congress authorized the erection of a light-home, where a light has been regularly 
 shown and a fog-bell kept in operation by private enterprize. Upon the round-topped hill 
 behind the point is erected a large frame building for a telegraph station, whence the electric 
 wires run to the city of San Francisco. Southward of the head the sand dunes are conspicuous 
 and easily recognized features in approaching the entrance. The strong northwest summer 
 winds, drawing in over the land, raise the white sand from the three miles of broad beach, and 
 carrying it inland over the hill tops, bury grass, bushes, and scrub oak. The quantity of sand 
 driven in from this beach is enormous, and its accumulation has greatly modified the topography 
 of the peninsula. 
 
 The geographical position of the site selected for the light-house, as determined by the 
 triangulation of the Coast Survey, is — 
 
 O / If 
 
 Latitude 37 46 56.9 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 29 39.5 west. 
 
 h, m. $, 
 
 Or, in time 8 9 58.6 
 
 This position is 32 feet north and 1,317 feet west of the outer telegraph station. 
 
 Off the western face of Point Lobos lie a number of black jagged rocks about 50 feet high, 
 but all within the 5-fathom line, and close in shore. They are called the Seal rocks, and one 
 of them shows a large arch from particular directions. The outer one bears from Point Boneta 
 SE. by S. J S., and is distant 2^ miles. From it the general trend of the shore runs in a line 
 to Fort Point for nearly a mile, to a short jutting high point, off which lie the MUe rocks. 
 From this point the shore runs well to the eastward for a mile, gradually trending to the north 
 for a mile and a half to Fort Point. In the deepest part of this bend the shore is low, with 
 small hillocks rising from the general surface and slope of the hills, and fronted by a long sand 
 beach. 
 
 Mile Bocks. — These two rocks lie off Point Lobos, a short distance within the limit of the 
 entrance of the Golden Gate. They are small, near each other, and have a height of 15 feet 
 above water, with a good depth of water all around and close to them; but the current swirls 
 and eddies about them in such a manner as to render a near approach anything but agreeable 
 or safe with a light wind. The inner and smaller rock is one-third of a mile from the small 
 jutting point inside of Point Lobos, and very nearly 2 miles from Fort Point. Vessels running 
 in on the line Fort Point and Alcatraz island pass less than half a mile from the outer and 
 larger rock. The rocks bear almost SE. from Boneta light. They were called "One Mile 
 rocks" by Beechy in November, 1826. 
 
 Fort Foint. — This was formerly a bold, narrow, jutting promontory of hard serpentine rock, 
 107 feet above high water, and surmounted by a small Mexican fortification, called Fort Blanco. 
 The view from the point was one of the finest in the harbor; but the whole headland has been 
 cut down to within a few feet of high water, and increased in area to form a large fortification, 
 which will be mounted with guns of the largest range and calibre. Upon the hill side rising 
 behind it are houses for the accommodation of the commandant, oflicers, soldiers, and workmen. 
 Eastward of the point is a long substantial wharf, constructed for receiving stores, ordnance, Ac. 
 
m REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OP 
 
 Several large vessels have been lost on Fort Point by venturing too close during light airs 
 and strong irregular currents. 
 
 The ligU-Jiouse at Fort Point is a wooden building, painted white, and situated outside of 
 the fortifications. The illuminating apparatus is of the fifth order of Fresnel, and shows a 
 Jixed light of the natural color from sunset to sunrise. It is 52 feet above the level of the sea, 
 and, during ordinary states of the atmosphere, can be seen from an elevation of 15 feet at a 
 distance of 12J miles. The angle of visibility seaward is bounded by the extremity of Point 
 Boneta, bearing W. | S., and Point Lobos, bearing SW. by S. j S. 
 
 The geographical position, as determined by the triangulation of the Coast Survey, is — 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 37 48 37.4 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 27 37.8 west. 
 
 h. m. s. 
 
 Or, in time 8 9 50.5 
 
 The light-house first built upon the high point was taken down when the fortification opera- 
 tions commenced. The light in the present one was first exhibited March 21, 1855. 
 The South Farallone light is visible from a vessel's decks when abreast of Fort Point. 
 Fog-bell at Fort Point. — The color of the structure is white, and may be ^een at a distance 
 of 12 nautical miles. Its height is 36 feet, and the elevation of the light (5th order) 52 feet 
 above the sea level. The bell is struck by machinery, and the fog-horn sounds every five 
 minutes. 
 
 BELL-BOAT OUTSIDE OF SAN FRANCISCO BAB. 
 
 A bell-boat is placed just outside of the bar, in 15 fathoms at mean low water, on the range 
 of the Fort Point and Alcatraz island light-houses. It is 30 feet long, painted red, and furnished 
 with a day -mark of 3J feet by 4, elevated 8 feet above the water. The bell weighs 500 pounds, 
 is elevated 15 feet above the water, is rung by the action of the sea, and under ordinary circum- 
 stances of wind and sea should be heard from one to three miles. Mariners are cautioned not 
 to run into or damage this aid to navigation. The fog-gun signal at Point Boneta was discon- 
 tinued with the placing of this bell-boat, March 18, 1858, as already stated; and the bar buoy 
 on the same range was also removed. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of the bell-boat is — 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 37 45^ north. 
 
 Longitude 122 38^ west. 
 
 The bearings and distances of prominent objects from it are as follows : 
 South Farallone Island light-house, SW. by W. ^ "W., 16^ miles. 
 Punta de Los Reyes, (light-house site,) NW. by W. | W., 22;^ miles. 
 Duxbury Point, NW. by N. ^ N., 8^ miles. 
 Point Boneta light-house, NE. j N., 7^ miles. 
 Port Point light-house, NE. | E., 9| miles. 
 Point Lobos telegraph station, NE. by E. 3 E., 7^ miles. 
 Point San Pedro, SE. ^ E., 11^ miles. 
 
 The course to enter the bay from it is NE. f E., and it will be seen that it lies almost in the 
 line from the S. Farallone light to the proposed Point Lobos light. 
 
FOG BELL AT FORT POINT. 
 
 Correction. The framework supporting the bell, is ou the eastern side of the light-house, and 
 almost touching it. The crown of the bell is 40J feet above the surface of the ground, 
 and supported by iron rods, 10 feet above the wooden structure in which it was for- 
 merly [)laced. The bell weighs 1092 pounds, and during foggy or thick weather, is 
 struck by machinery, five blows at intervals of ten seconds, followed by a pause of 
 thirty-four seconds. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 8UBVEY. 37 
 
 Sem Francisco bar. — The bar off the entrance to the buy of San Francisco has a_depth of 6 
 fathoms at the lowest tides. Its general form is that of a horse-shoe, commencing 4 miles 
 southward, stretching out gradually to C miles abreast of Point Lobos; and when nearly up to 
 the parallel of Point Boneta running inshore towards that point and forming the "four-fathom 
 bank," from a distance of 4 miles down to 1. The average breadth of the bar within the 
 limit« of the 6-fathom curve is about one mile. It falls ofif outside to 10 fathoms in half a mile. 
 and deepens gradually inside. Not lest than 5 fathoms exist over the bar when Point Boneta 
 light bears between NE. by E. | E. and N. by W. ^ W. 
 
 No vessel should anchor upon the bar if she can possibly avoid it; frequently a heavy swell 
 sets in without wind, and if the current is running strong ebb, it allows little chance of escaping 
 from an uncomfortable berth. 
 
 It has been given as a rule for steamers approaching in thick weather to run for the bar as 
 nearly as they can estimate, keeping the lead going until they strike 5 fathoms, and mn on 
 until the depth is increased, when the armed lead should bring up gray sand with red specks, 
 and they may conclude themselves within the bar. ' ' ■ 
 
 A line of large buoys, properly marked, outside the bar in 10 fathoms is the next best expe- 
 dient after a large fog-gun. From them the position of the bell-boat could be known ; and 
 numbered buoys from it across the bar would enable steamers in thick weather to feel their 
 way in and be independent of guessing about the velocity and direction of the current. 
 
 The fog sometimes stands like a wall outside of a lino from Fort Point across the entrance, 
 while the bay inside is beautifully clear. After the greatest heat of the day is passed this 
 fog creeps in and envelopes land and water. 
 
 T^ shores of the Golden Gate. — On the north side of the Golden Gate the shores are very 
 precipitous, with an occasional short stretch of sand beach at the base of the bluffs, affording a 
 boat landing. Point DiaUo is the first point inside Boneta, and bears NE. by E. f E. distant 
 1^ mile from it; between these the shore is indented about three-quarters of a mile, affording 
 a boat landing for the light-house people. In the vicinity of Diablo the faces of the cliffs show 
 of a reddish purple color. The rock is very hard and flinty, "traversed by seams of quartz, 
 and has a banded or belted structure, so that it resembles varieties of jasper. * * » * » 
 It exhibita its stratified character most distinctly. It is also found at the cinnabar mine of 
 New Almaden." 
 
 The red specks found on the bar are doubtless derived from the disintegration of these 
 reddish cliffs. 
 
 From Diablo the shore is jagged and irregular to Lime Point Bluff, distant one mile, and 
 bearing NE. | E. Off this point are several high rocks, but they are so close to the bluff as to 
 be distinguishable only from certain directions. From Lime Point Bluff to Fort Point the distance 
 is barely a mile, and the bearing S. by E. \ E. This is the narrowest part of the Golden Gate. 
 From thence the bay begins to open well to the northeast. 
 
 On the south side, eastward from Fort Point, the shore is low, flat and marshy to Point San 
 Jose, distant 2^ miles, and bearing £. by N. This point is moderately high, with a few houses 
 clustering upon it. Off this reach was the "outer anchorage" of former navigators, and the 
 Presidio of San Francisco is seen a short distance behind it. 
 
 " It is a curious and interesting fact that the sand beach between Fort Point and Point San 
 Joeef has been thrown up by the surf upon an extensive alluvial deposit, which has the character 
 of a peat bog or swamp. When the tide is very low the edge of this peat formation may 
 
dS REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 t 
 
 be seen. Large masses of the peat are also broken out during storms, and thrown Up on the sand 
 of the beach. This sand and all the loose round boulders, from three to eight inches or more in 
 diameter, rest upon a foundation of the peat; and the continuation of the peat is found in the 
 swamp or flat meadow land which lies inside the belt of sand, and between it and the base of 
 the sandstone hills. It is very difficult to account for the formation of this swamp under con- 
 ditions like those at present existing." 
 
 "A strong current is constantly setting back and forth through the channel, and the action 
 of the surf constantly undermines and encroaches upon the beach, so that the present action is 
 destructive, and the swamp could not possibly have been formed while the Golden Gate was 
 open as we now find it." These remarks are taken from a geological report of the coast of 
 California, by W. P. Blake, Esq. — (See Coast Survey Report for 1855, page 389.) 
 
 From Point San Jose to North Point, at the base of Telegraph Hill, the distance is one mile, 
 and the bearing E. f N. All this space forms part of the city of San Francisco, and is covered 
 with houses. The shore-line is denominated the North Beach, and from about the middle of 
 the lowest part projects a long wharf over the flats to 3 fathoms water. 
 , Telegraph Hill rises to a height of 289 feet, and is covered with houses to its summit 
 wherever building room can be obtained. The present plan of the city grades contemplates 
 the entire removal of this hill. 
 The geographical position of the triangulation station of the Coast Survey, upon its summit, is: 
 
 O / II 
 
 Latitude 37 48 06.4 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 23 19.4 west. 
 
 h m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 8 9 33.3 
 
 ALCATEAZ ISLAND. 
 
 This is the first island that is opened in entering the Golden Gate, and upon it is erected a 
 light-house. The island is nearly 600 yards long, in a W.NW. direction, by about 260 in 
 width, and rises to an elevation of 135 feet above high water. The summit is flat, falling 
 away gently on all sides for some distance, and then at the sides dropping perpendicularly. 
 Upon the top exists a thin layer of earth, but the island is composed of a fine grained and 
 "very compact sandstone of a dark bluish green color. It is regularly stratified in beds of 
 varying thickness, and often separated by thin layers of argillaceous shale. It appears to 
 contain a large amount of protoxide of iron, which changes to the hydrous sesquioxide on 
 exposure." Deep water marks exist all round the island, and, with the exception of one or 
 two places, the sides are so steep that a landing is effected with difficulty. Extensive fortifica- 
 tions are now in course of construction upon it. At the SE. side a small pier has been built to 
 receive stores, ordnance, and materials. Off the NW. part foul bottom makes out about 300 
 or 400 yards. 
 
 Alcatraz Island Light-house is built on the summit of the island, and bears NW. from Tele- 
 graph Hill, distant If mile ; from Fort Point NE. | E. distance 2| miles. 
 
 The light is a fixed harbor light of the natural color and of the third order of Fresnel, illumi- 
 nating the entire horizon, and exhibited from sunset to sunrise. It is 160 feet above the level 
 of the sea, and should be seen from the sea, under ordinary states of the atmosphere, at a 
 distance of 14 miles, or outside the bell-boat off the bar. 
 
FOG BELL AT ALOATBAZ ISLAND. 
 Paft 39, 
 
 AdduioD. The framework supporting the bell, is built on the south-eastern extremity of the 
 island, close to the water's edge, and is elevated about 30 feet above the water. The 
 bell weighs 1092 pounds, and during foggy or thick weather, is struck by machinery 
 four blows at intervals of eight seconds, followed by a pause of fifteen seconds. 
 
 BIRD, OR ARCH ROCK, 
 
 Huge 3», I* ^ small pyramidal rock, about 45 feet in diameter, 30 feet high, and bearing 
 Correction. -^T , g^ distant seven-eights of a mile from the light-house on Alcatraz Island. When 
 seen in the dii-ection from or towards the Presidio Shoal, it presents a perforation at 
 low tides. 
 
I 
 
 THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 89 
 
 Ita geographical position is: 
 
 o / " 
 
 Latitude 37 49 33.0 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 24 18.8 west. 
 
 k. m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 8 9 37.3 - 
 
 No hidden dangers have been discovered in the entrance outside of the line from Fort Point 
 to Lime Point Bluff, but there are several inside. 
 
 Presidio Shoal, having 3^ fathoms upon it, lies 1| mile inside of Fort Point, and bears NE. 
 by E. J E. from it, or three-quarters of a point eastward of the line between the lights on Fort 
 Point and Alcatraz inland. The shoal is about 700 yards long within the 4-fathom curve, and 
 over half a mile long within the 5-fathom curve. It is very narrow, shows sandy bottom, and 
 has deep water all round it. Its general direction is on the above mentioned bearing. 
 
 From the shoalest part the Presidio flag-staflf bears S. J E., and we have ventured to distin- 
 guish the shoal by that name. 
 
 Anita Bock shows above water at low tides and is situated IJ^ mile inside of Fort Point and 
 bears E. by N. from it. It is only 300 yards from the low beach and has deep water close 
 around it. 
 
 " A spar buoy, painted red, with even numbers, has been placed in 3 fathoms water, about 
 half a cable's length due west from the shoalest part of Anita rock. Vessels should not 
 approach this buoy within a cable's length, as a strong current sets across the rock." It was 
 named after the United States Quartermaster's barque Anita, that struck upon it. 
 
 Bird Bock shows aboVe water at low tides, wilh deep water close to it On everj- side. It 
 bears' W.-| S. from the light-house on Alcatraz island, and is distant seven-eighths of a mile. 
 
 Shag Bock is a low white topped rock, about half a mile nearly N.NE. from Bird rock. From 
 Alcatraz light it bears W. by N., distant 1 mile. For about 300 yards towards Alcatraz 
 island the bottom is foul and irregular, but outside that limit 10 fathoms are found. The rock 
 shows about 4 feet above the highest tides, being then not more than 8 or 10 feet in extent. 
 
 Blossom Bock is a ledge having 5 feet water upon it at the lowest tides, and within the 
 3-fathom curve, is about 300 by 200 yards in extent, with deep water outside these limits. 
 A spar buoy, painted with red and black horizontal stripes, has been placed in 4 fathoms water, 
 about half a cable's length due south from the shoalest part of the ledge. Vessels should not 
 approach this buoy from any direction nearer than a cable's length. 
 
 This ledge bears E. by S. from Alcatraz light, and IJ mile distant, being almost on the line 
 joining the south points of Alcatraz and Yerba Buena islands. From the summit of Telegraph 
 Hill it bears N. 6° W., distant 1 mile. 
 
 It was discovered and named by Beechy, after his ship, in November 1826. 
 
 Terba Buena Idand is the large high island opened to the east and south of Alcatraz after 
 enteriig the Golden Gate. The western point of this island is 1| mile from Telegraph Hill, 
 and the bearing NE. by E. Its peak is 343 feet high; the sides steep and irregular, and rising 
 to a ridge running nearly east and west. On the western or San Francisco side the water is 
 very deep close in shore, but from the NW. point a 3-fathom bank extends IJ mile NW. by N., 
 spreading to the eastward for half a mile, and thence running to the NE. point. The wreck 
 of the ship Crown Princess lies in 5 fathoms on the western edge of this band, and a day-mark, 
 painted red, has been attached to her, consisting of a plank 7 inches by 3, 30 feet long, showing 
 
 r 
 
4B REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 15 feet above high water, with a board 5 feet long nailed across just below the top. The 
 following bearingK and distances give its position: 
 
 Alcatraz island light-house, W. by S., 2^ miles. 
 Telegraph Hill, SW. by S., 1| mile. 
 
 West end of Yerba Buena island, SE. by S. ^ S., | mile. 
 East end of Yerba Buena island, E. by S. i S., 1 mile. 
 
 Angel Island. — When passing through the narrowest part of the Golden Gate this large island 
 bears about N.NE., and is seen as an island for a very short time when in the narrowest part 
 of the Golden Gate. It has an irregular and bold shore-line of about 5 miles, and an area of 
 one square mile. It rises to a height of 771 feet, is covered with grass and bushes, and cut 
 in every direction by deep gulleys. As seen from the southeastward it appears part of the 
 northern peninsula, but is divided from that in its NW. face by Raccoon straits, three quarters 
 of a mile in width, having a depth of water ranging from 10 to 30 fathoms, and a very strong 
 current. A narrow high jutting point makes out from the SE. portion of the island, bearing 
 N. I W. from Alcatraz island light, and distant If mile. From this head the general trend of 
 the southern face for over a mile is W. by S. toward Saucelito Point. 
 
 Punta de los CavaUos is half a mile N.NW. from Lime Point bluff. The shore-line between 
 them falls slightly back, and a very small valley makes down from the high hills behind. 
 
 Point Saucdito. — From Point CavaUos the general trend of the shore is NW. by N. for \\ 
 mile to Point Saucelito with nearly a straight shore-line. One mile from Point CavaUos is the 
 anchorage of Saucelito, where men-of-war and whalers formerly anchored. It lies abreast of a 
 few houses forming the town of Saucelito, whence much of the water used in San Francisco is 
 taken in steam water-boats. North of this anchorage is a large bay, with but a few feet water. 
 From Saucelito Point to the western point of Angel island the distance is 1| mile, and the 
 bearing NE. by E. \ E. 
 
 To Peninsula Point, forming the southwestern part of Raccoon strait, the distance is one 
 mile, and bearing NE. | E. 
 
 The following .list of geographical positions in San Francisco bay is taken from the published 
 reports of the United States Coast Survey: 
 
 " Outer telegraph station," on the summit of the hill behind Point Lobos. 
 
 O / It 
 
 Latitude 37 46 56.6 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 29 23.3 west. 
 
 A. m. t. 
 
 Or, in time 8 09 57.5. 
 
 ^ ^Presidio" near the Presidio of San Francisco. Primary astronomical station. 
 
 O / II 
 
 Latitude 37 47 36.1 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 26 15 west. 
 
 A. m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 8 09 45.0. 
 
 Magnetic variation, 15° 27' east in February, 1852; yearly increase, 1'.4. 
 Telegraph Hill, near the San Francisco observatory. Primary astronomical station. 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 37 47 59. 2 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 23 10 west. 
 
 h. m. >. 
 
 Or, in time 8 09 32.5. 
 
TUB UNITED STATES COAST SUBVET. 
 
 41 
 
 The highest part of the hill is 301 foet above hi gh w ator. 
 
 Silicon, summit of tho slight hill NE. of South Park. Secondary astronomical station. 
 
 O ' II 
 
 Latitude 37 47 07.0 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 22 32 west. 
 
 k. m. •■ 
 
 Or, in time 8 09 30.1. 
 
 Tides. — As a general rule there is one large and one small tide during each day, the heights 
 of two successive high waters occurring one, a. m., and tho other, p. m. of the same twenty- 
 four hours, and the intervals from tho next preceding transit of the moon are very different. 
 These inequalities depend upon the moon's declination. Thoy disappear near tho time of the 
 moon's declination being nothing, and are greatest about tho time of its being greatest. The 
 inequalities for low water are not the same as for high, though they disappear and have the 
 greatest value at nearly the same times. 
 
 When the moon's declination is north, the highest of the two high tides of the twenty-four 
 hours occurs at San Francisco about eleven and a half hours after the moon's transit; and when 
 the declination is south, the lowest of the two high tides occurs at about that interval. The 
 lowest of the two low waters of tho day is the one which follows next tho highest high water. 
 
 Tables I and II give the number to be added to the time of moon's transit to find the time 
 of high water. It is one of double entry, the time of transit being, placed in the first column, 
 and the ntmiber of days from tho day at which the moon had 'the greatest declination being 
 arranged at the top of the table. Entering the first column with the time of transit, and 
 following tho lino horizontally until wo come under the column containing the days from the 
 greatest declination, we find the number to be added to the time of transit to give the time of 
 high water. If the moon's declination is south, Table I is to be used; if north, Table II. 
 
 TABLE I, 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 •oirr> 
 
 DKCUHITIOX 
 
 DAT! 
 
 rum 
 
 MOON*a OKBATSflT D8CL1KAT10N. 
 
 
 « 
 
 
 
 
 
 Ttoeof 
 Booal 
 
 tmisli. 
 
 Befor*— 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 After 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Time of 
 moon*i 
 tiaiMit. 
 
 
 • 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 X 
 
 3 
 
 3- 
 
 4 
 
 S 
 
 6 
 
 
 Km. 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 A. 
 19 
 
 IK. 
 
 9S 
 
 K. 
 13 
 
 43 
 
 13 
 
 57 
 
 k. 
 13 
 
 m. 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 m. 
 90 
 
 A. m. 
 13 18 
 
 k. 
 13 
 
 m. 
 10 
 
 k. 
 13 
 
 m. 
 3 
 
 19 
 
 m. 
 31 
 
 k. 
 
 u 
 
 m. 
 
 38 
 
 19 
 
 a. 
 91 
 
 k.m. 
 9 
 
 » 
 
 11 
 
 43 19 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 37 
 
 13 
 
 SI 
 
 13 
 
 « 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 13 10 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 19 
 
 36 
 
 13 
 
 4S 
 
 19 
 
 39 
 
 IB 
 
 15 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 37 
 
 
 U 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 IS 
 
 31 
 
 13 
 
 4S 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 13 4 
 
 19 
 
 se 
 
 13 
 
 SO 
 
 19 
 
 39 
 
 19 
 
 96 
 
 19 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 1 30 
 
 a 
 
 31 
 
 
 49 
 
 IS 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 9S 
 
 13 
 
 39 
 
 13 
 
 S4 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 13 S8 
 
 19 
 
 S3 
 
 13 
 
 44 
 
 IS 
 
 33 
 
 19 
 
 91 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 1 30 
 
 * 
 
 u 
 
 95 
 
 
 43 
 
 IB 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 33 
 
 13 
 
 48 
 
 13 
 
 S« 
 
 13 S9 
 
 19 
 
 48 
 
 13 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 37 
 
 19 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 
 57 
 
 9 
 
 1 10 
 
 11 
 
 90 
 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 98 
 
 19 
 
 14 
 
 19 
 
 98 
 
 13 
 
 43 
 
 13 
 
 SI 
 
 13 47 
 
 13 
 
 41 
 
 19 
 
 33 
 
 19 
 
 93 
 
 19 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 89 
 
 9 38 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 
 33 
 
 11 
 
 S3 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 98 
 
 19 
 
 40 
 
 13 
 
 48 
 
 13 44 
 
 13 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 30 
 
 19 
 
 19 
 
 IB 
 
 « 
 
 11 
 
 49 
 
 3 
 
 3 30 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 
 3S 
 
 11 
 
 » 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 35 
 
 19 
 
 40 
 
 13 
 
 48 
 
 13 44 
 
 19 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 30 
 
 19 
 
 19 
 
 IS 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 49 
 
 3 » 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 B 
 
 
 40 
 
 11 
 
 88 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 13 
 
 W 
 
 19 
 
 4S 
 
 13 
 
 S3 
 
 13 49 
 
 IB 
 
 43 
 
 13 
 
 3S 
 
 13 
 
 94 
 
 IB 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 54 
 
 4 
 
 4 30 
 
 11 
 
 30 
 
 
 48 
 
 19 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 34 
 
 13 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 S3 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 13 87 
 
 13 
 
 SI 
 
 13 
 
 43 
 
 13 
 
 » 
 
 IB 
 
 19 
 
 19 
 
 9 
 
 4 90 
 
 » 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 
 37 
 
 IS 
 
 IS 
 
 13 
 
 33 
 
 19 
 
 47 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 IS 6 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 41 
 
 19 
 
 99 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 3 M 
 
 11 
 
 47 
 
 19 
 
 i 
 
 13 
 
 93 
 
 13 
 
 41 
 
 13 
 
 &3 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 13 
 
 18 
 
 13 14 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 IS 
 
 49 
 
 19 
 
 30 
 
 U 
 
 19 
 
 S 38 
 
 a 
 
 11 
 
 U 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 31 
 
 13 
 
 49 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 13 
 
 IB 
 
 13 
 
 36 
 
 13 99 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 57 
 
 U 
 
 44 
 
 19 
 
 97 
 
 e • 
 
 6 30 
 
 19 
 
 
 
 19 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 38 
 
 19 
 
 M 
 
 13 
 
 8» 
 
 13 
 
 33 
 
 13 
 
 31 
 
 13 97 
 
 13 
 
 91 
 
 13 
 
 »? 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 U 
 
 49 
 
 IB 
 
 39 
 
 6 11 
 
 7 
 
 19 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 9S 
 
 19 
 
 43 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 IS 
 
 13 
 
 30 
 
 13 
 
 38 
 
 13 34 
 
 13 
 
 98 
 
 13 
 
 90 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 IB 
 
 S6 
 
 IB 
 
 38 
 
 7 
 
 7 30 
 
 19 
 
 U 
 
 19 
 
 31 
 
 13 
 
 49 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 13 
 
 31 
 
 13 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 H 
 
 13 40 
 
 13 
 
 84 
 
 13 
 
 98 
 
 13 
 
 IS 
 
 11 
 
 9 
 
 IB 
 
 45 
 
 7 W 
 
 8 • 
 
 19 
 
 18 
 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 M 
 
 13 
 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 98 
 
 13 
 
 41 
 
 13 
 
 49 
 
 13 4t 
 
 13 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 31 
 
 13 
 
 90 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 IB 
 
 SO 
 
 8 
 
 8 30 
 
 19 
 
 91 
 
 
 39 
 
 19 
 
 S7 
 
 13 
 
 IS 
 
 13 
 
 39 
 
 13 
 
 44 
 
 13 
 
 33 
 
 13 48 
 
 13 
 
 49 
 
 13 
 
 34 
 
 13 
 
 93 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 IB 
 
 S3 
 
 8 30 
 
 S 
 
 19 
 
 90 
 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 38 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 13 
 
 98 
 
 13 
 
 43 
 
 13 
 
 SI 
 
 13 47 
 
 13 
 
 41 
 
 13 
 
 33 
 
 13 
 
 99 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 19 
 
 59 
 
 9 
 
 9 30 
 
 19 
 
 18 
 
 
 38 
 
 19 
 
 S4 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 98 
 
 13 
 
 41 
 
 13 
 
 49 
 
 13 45 
 
 13 
 
 39 
 
 13 
 
 31 
 
 13 
 
 90 
 
 13 
 
 7 
 
 19 
 
 50 
 
 9 30 
 
 10 • 
 
 19 
 
 14 
 
 
 33 
 
 13 
 
 SO 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 93 
 
 13 
 
 37 
 
 13 
 
 41 
 
 11 41 
 
 13 
 
 3S 
 
 13 
 
 97 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 19 
 
 46 
 
 10 
 
 10 30 
 
 U 
 
 8 
 
 U 
 
 98 
 
 19 
 
 44 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 18 
 
 13 
 
 31 
 
 13 
 
 39 
 
 13 35 
 
 11 
 
 99 
 
 13 
 
 91 
 
 13 
 
 10 
 
 IB 
 
 67 
 
 19 
 
 40 
 
 10 30 
 
 11 • 
 
 19 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 19 
 
 19 
 
 37 
 
 U 
 
 St 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 13 
 
 94 
 
 13 
 
 30 
 
 13 98 
 
 13 
 
 B 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 IS 
 
 SO 
 
 19 
 
 33 
 
 11 
 
 11 30 
 
 11 
 
 S3 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 98 
 
 IB 
 
 47 
 
 13 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 16 
 
 13 
 
 94 
 
 13 90 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 IB 
 
 55 
 
 19 
 
 49 
 
 19 
 
 9S 
 
 11 30 
 
42 
 
 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 TABLE II. 
 
 
 
 
 
 NORTH 
 
 DKCLINATlOIf.— DATS FROM UOON's 
 
 OREATEST 
 
 DECLINATION. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Time of 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Time of 
 
 moon's 
 
 
 
 Before 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 After 
 
 — 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 moon's 
 
 transit. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 trangit. 
 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 
 h. m. 
 
 h, m. 
 
 h. 
 
 m. 
 
 h, m. 
 
 A 
 
 m. 
 
 A 
 
 m. 
 
 h, m. 
 
 A. 
 
 m. 
 
 h. 
 
 m. 
 
 A. 
 
 m. 
 
 A. 
 
 m. 
 
 A. m. 
 
 
 m. 
 
 A. 
 
 m. 
 
 h. m. 
 
 
 
 12 21 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 11 45 
 
 11 
 
 27 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 10 58 
 
 10 
 
 50 
 
 10 
 
 54 
 
 11 
 
 
 
 U 
 
 8 
 
 11 19 
 
 
 32 
 
 
 49 
 
 U 
 
 30 
 
 12 15 
 
 11 
 
 57 
 
 11 39 
 
 11 
 
 21 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 10 52. 
 
 10 
 
 44 
 
 10 
 
 48 
 
 10 
 
 54 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 11 13 
 
 
 26 
 
 
 43 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 12 9 
 
 11 
 
 51 
 
 11 33 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 10 46 
 
 10 
 
 38 
 
 10 
 
 43 
 
 10 
 
 48 
 
 10 
 
 56 
 
 11 7 
 
 
 20 
 
 
 ;i7 
 
 1 
 
 1 30 
 
 12 3 
 
 11 
 
 45 
 
 11 27 
 
 11 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 55 
 
 10 40 
 
 10 
 
 32 
 
 10 
 
 36 
 
 10 
 
 43 
 
 10 
 
 50 
 
 11 1 
 
 
 14 
 
 
 31 
 
 1 30 
 
 2 
 
 11 57 
 
 11 
 
 39 
 
 11 21 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 49 
 
 10 34 
 
 10 
 
 36 
 
 10 
 
 30 
 
 10 
 
 3« 
 
 10 
 
 44 
 
 10 55 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 35 
 
 2 
 
 2 30 
 
 11 52 
 
 11 
 
 34 
 
 11 16 
 
 10 
 
 58 
 
 10 
 
 44 
 
 10 29 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 10 
 
 35 
 
 10 
 
 31 
 
 10 
 
 39 
 
 10 50 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 20 
 
 2 30 
 
 3 
 
 11 49 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 11 13 
 
 10 
 
 55 
 
 10 
 
 41 
 
 10 26 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 10 
 
 22 
 
 10 
 
 28 
 
 10 
 
 36 
 
 10 47 
 
 
 
 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 3 30 
 
 11 49 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 11 13 
 
 10 
 
 55 
 
 10 
 
 41 
 
 10 36 
 
 10 
 
 18 
 
 ID 
 
 22 
 
 10 
 
 28 
 
 10 
 
 36 
 
 10 47 
 
 
 
 
 
 17 
 
 3 30 
 
 4 • 
 
 11 54 
 
 11 
 
 36 
 
 11 18 
 
 • 11 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 46 
 
 10 31 
 
 10 
 
 23 
 
 10 
 
 27 
 
 10 
 
 33 
 
 10 
 
 41 
 
 10 » 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 22 
 
 4 
 
 4 30 
 
 13 3 
 
 11 
 
 44 
 
 11 26 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 54 
 
 10 39 
 
 10 
 
 31 
 
 10 
 
 35 
 
 10 
 
 41 
 
 10 
 
 49 
 
 11 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 30 
 
 4 30 
 
 5 
 
 12 11 
 
 It 
 
 53 
 
 11 35 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 10 48 
 
 10 
 
 40 
 
 10 
 
 44 
 
 10 
 
 50 
 
 10 
 
 58 
 
 11 9 
 
 
 22 
 
 
 39 
 
 5 
 
 5 30 
 
 12 19 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 11 43 
 
 u 
 
 25 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 10 56 
 
 10 
 
 48 
 
 10 
 
 53 
 
 10 
 
 58 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 11 17 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 47 
 
 5 30 
 
 8 
 
 12 27 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 11 51 
 
 11 
 
 33 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 11 4 
 
 10 
 
 56 
 
 u 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 11 «S 
 
 
 38 
 
 
 55 
 
 6 
 
 6 30 
 
 12 32 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 11 56 
 
 11 
 
 38 
 
 11 
 
 24 
 
 11 9 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 u 
 
 5 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 11 30 
 
 
 43 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 6 30 
 
 7 
 
 12 39 
 
 12 
 
 21 
 
 12. 3 
 
 11 
 
 45 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 11 -16 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 18 
 
 11 
 
 3« 
 
 11 37 
 
 
 50 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 7 30 
 
 12 45 
 
 12 
 
 27 
 
 12 9 
 
 11 
 
 51 
 
 11 
 
 37 
 
 .11 22 
 
 11 
 
 14 
 
 11 
 
 18 
 
 11 
 
 34 
 
 11 
 
 23 
 
 11 43 
 
 
 56 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 7 30 
 
 8 
 
 12 50 
 
 12 
 
 32 
 
 12 14 
 
 11 
 
 56 
 
 11 
 
 42 
 
 11 27 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 u 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 29 
 
 11 
 
 37 
 
 11 48 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 8 
 
 8 30 
 
 12 53 
 
 12 
 
 35 
 
 12 17 
 
 11 
 
 59 
 
 u 
 
 45 
 
 11 30 
 
 11 
 
 22 
 
 _11 
 
 26 
 
 11 
 
 32 
 
 11 
 
 40 
 
 11 51 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 12 
 
 S* 
 
 8 30 
 
 » 
 
 12 52 
 
 12 
 
 34 
 
 12 IS 
 
 11 
 
 58 
 
 11 
 
 44 
 
 11 39 
 
 11 
 
 21 
 
 11 
 
 25 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 11 
 
 39 
 
 11 50 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 12 
 
 30 
 
 9 30 
 
 9 30 
 
 12 60 
 
 12 
 
 32 
 
 12 14 
 
 11 
 
 56 
 
 11 
 
 42 
 
 11 27 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 23 
 
 11 
 
 29 
 
 11 
 
 37 
 
 11 48 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 18 
 
 » 
 
 10 
 
 12 46 
 
 12 
 
 28 
 
 12 10 
 
 11 
 
 52 
 
 11 
 
 38 
 
 11 23 
 
 u 
 
 15 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 25 
 
 11 
 
 33 
 
 11 44 
 
 11 
 
 57 
 
 12 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 10 30 
 
 12 40 
 
 12 
 
 Zl 
 
 12 4 
 
 11 
 
 46 
 
 11 
 
 32 
 
 11 17 
 
 11 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 37 
 
 U 38 
 
 11 
 
 51 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 10 30 
 
 11 
 
 12 33 
 
 12 
 
 15 
 
 U 57 
 
 11 
 
 39 
 
 u 
 
 25 
 
 11 10 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 11 31 
 
 11 
 
 44 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 11 30 
 
 12 25 
 
 12 
 
 7 
 
 11 49 
 
 11 
 
 31 
 
 11 
 
 17 
 
 11 2 
 
 10 
 
 54 
 
 10 
 
 58 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 11 33 
 
 11 
 
 36 
 
 11 
 
 58 
 
 11 30 
 
 Example. — Kequired the time of high water at North Beach, San Francisco, on the 7th of 
 February, 1853. 
 
 1st. The time of the moon's transit at Greenwich, from the British Nautical Almanac, is 
 llA. 4l7W. ; the longitude of San Francisco, 8L 10m.; requiring a correction of 16m. to the 
 time of transit at San Francisco, which is thus found to be llA. 57m. 
 
 2d. The moon's decKnation is south, and at the time of transit about two days after the 
 greatest. Entering Table I, we find 12h. (or 0/i.) of transit, the nearest number to \\h. 57m. 
 which the table gives; and following the line horizontally until we come to two days after the 
 greatest declination we find 13/i. 10m. 
 
 To l\li. bim. time of transit of moon, February 7, San Francisco, 
 
 Add 13 10 from column OA. transit, and two days after greatest declination. 
 
 The sum 25 7 or \h. Im., February 8, is the time of high water corresponding to 
 the transit which we took of February 7. If we desire the tide of February 7, we must go 
 back to the moon' s transit of the 6th. The example was f)urposely assumed to show this case. 
 
 To llA. Im., time of transit, February 6, 1853, 
 
 Add 13 28 number for 11 A. transit, and one day from greatest declination. 
 
 Sum 24 29, time of high water, 0/i. 29m., a. m., February 7. 
 
 The height of high water is obtained in a similar manner by the use of Table III and IV, 
 entering these in the same- way with the time of transit and days from the greatest declination. 
 Table III is for south declination, and Table IV for north. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 
 
 43 
 
 TABLE IIL 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 •oimi 
 
 BIOUIIlTtel — DAT! 
 
 rtoa aooa'i oUAnrr DioimiTioit. 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Aftor^ 
 
 .1 
 
 t 
 
 S ' 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 S 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 Anr. 
 
 FHL 
 
 /M. 
 
 ft.*. 
 
 Art. 
 
 fM. 
 
 n*. 
 
 fM. 
 
 FtH. 
 
 JW. 
 
 fW. 
 
 Fttt. 
 
 FtH. 
 
 Fiti. 
 
 Hma. 
 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.8 
 
 
 3.7 
 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.9 
 
 4.0 
 
 4.1 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.6 
 
 4.B 
 
 
 
 S.8 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.9 
 
 
 3.1 
 
 
 3.1 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.S 
 
 3.7 
 
 4.0 
 
 4.3 
 
 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.0 
 
 
 9.9 
 
 
 9.9 
 
 3.1 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.S 
 
 3.8 
 
 4.0 
 
 
 
 3.B 
 
 3.0 
 
 
 
 9.7 
 
 
 9.7 
 
 9.9 
 
 3.0 
 
 3.1 
 
 3.3 
 
 9.S 
 
 3.8 
 
 
 
 a. 8 
 
 a.s 
 
 
 
 9.3 
 
 
 9.3 
 
 9.3 
 
 9.8 
 
 9.7 
 
 9.9 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.4 
 
 
 
 a.s 
 
 a.3 
 
 
 
 9.0 
 
 
 9.0 
 
 9.9 
 
 9.3 
 
 9.4 
 
 9.8 
 
 9.9 
 
 3.1 
 
 
 
 a.4 
 
 8.a 
 
 
 
 I.B 
 
 
 1.9 
 
 9.1 
 
 9.9 
 
 9.3 
 
 9.5 
 
 9.8 
 
 3.0 
 
 
 
 a.7 
 
 9.S 
 
 
 
 9.9 
 
 
 a.a 
 
 9.4 
 
 9.S 
 
 9.8 
 
 9.8 
 
 3.1 
 
 3.3 
 
 
 
 3.1 
 
 a.8 
 
 
 
 9.8 
 
 
 a.s 
 
 9.8 
 
 9.9 
 
 3.0 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.7 
 
 
 
 a.s 
 
 3.3 
 
 
 
 3.0 
 
 
 3.0 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.4 
 
 V 
 
 3.9 
 
 4.1 
 
 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.5 
 
 3r3 
 
 
 3.9 
 
 
 s.a 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.S 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.8 
 
 4.1 
 
 4.3 
 
 10 
 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.S 
 
 
 3.4 
 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.8 
 
 4.0 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.5 
 
 11 
 
 TABLE IV. 
 
 
 
 
 KOIITB 
 
 DICLntnON DAT! 
 
 rmox Hooii'i okiatht diclikatioii. 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 B«rore— 
 
 
 
 Aftei 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 
 •":s 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 o 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 V * 
 
 t 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 a 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 ^ 
 
 Horn. 
 
 /M. 
 
 /M. 
 
 FM. 
 
 Fat. 
 
 Fktt. 
 
 FM. 
 
 Fttt. 
 
 F,tl. 
 
 Feit. 
 
 Fetl. 
 
 FiH. 
 
 Fut. 
 
 Feet. 
 
 Hour. 
 
 
 4.8 
 
 
 5.a 
 
 5.3 
 
 5.3 
 
 5.4 
 
 5.3 
 
 S.I 
 
 5.0 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.9 
 
 
 
 4.9 
 
 
 4.8 
 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.5 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.1 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.8 
 
 
 
 4.0 
 
 
 4.4 
 
 
 4.5 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.5 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.1 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.4 
 
 
 
 3.8 
 
 
 4.a 
 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.1 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.9 
 
 
 
 3.4 
 
 
 3.8 
 
 
 3.9 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.0 
 
 9.8 
 
 
 
 3.1 
 
 
 3.5 
 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.a 
 
 3.0 
 
 9.7 
 
 9.5 
 
 
 
 S.S 
 
 
 3.4 
 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.1 
 
 9.9 
 
 9.8 
 
 9.4 
 
 
 
 3.3 
 
 
 3.7 
 
 . 3.8 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.9 
 
 9.7 
 
 
 
 3.7 
 
 
 4.1 
 
 
 4.a 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.1 
 
 
 
 4.1 
 
 
 4.5 
 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.5 
 
 
 IS 
 
 4.3 
 
 
 4.7 
 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.5 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.9 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.7 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 4.5 
 
 
 4.9 
 
 
 5.0 
 
 5.1 
 
 5.0 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.1 
 
 3.9 
 
 11 
 
 Example. — To obtain the height of the tide on February 7, 1853, the declination being south, 
 we enter Table III, with Ok. of transit, and two days after greatest declination, and find that 
 the tide will bo 4.0 feet above the mean of the lowest low waters, or that 4.0 feet are to be 
 added to the soundings of a chart reduced to the mean of the lowest low waters of each day. 
 If the soundings of the chart were given for mean low water, then 1.2 feet ought to be sub- 
 tracted from the Tables III and IV; thus, in this example, it would bo 2.8 feet. 
 
 The approximate times of the successive low and high waters of the day will be found by 
 adding the numbers in Table V to the time of the first high water already determined. The 
 table gives the numbers for the difleront days from the greatest declination. 
 
u 
 
 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 TABLE V. — Cbntaining numbers to be added to the time of high water found from tables I and II, to obtain the successive low and high wateri. 
 
 B 
 
 rt o 
 
 SOUTH DECLINATION. 
 
 NORTH DECLINATION. 
 
 u 
 
 1 
 
 S 
 
 
 
 ".3 
 
 Low water. 
 
 High water. 
 
 Low water. 
 
 Low water. 
 
 High water. 
 
 Low water. 
 
 
 (Small.) 
 
 (Large. 
 
 (Large.) 
 
 (Large.) 
 
 . (Small.) 
 
 (Bmall.) 
 
 aiS 
 
 S o 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 A. m. 
 
 h. m. 
 
 h. m. 
 
 A. m. 
 
 h. m. 
 
 h, m. 
 
 
 r 6 
 
 5 48 
 
 13 U 
 
 18 54 
 
 5 54 
 
 11 57. 
 
 17 45 
 
 6 1 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 5 25 
 
 12 28 
 
 18 45 
 
 6 17 
 
 12 32 
 
 17 57 
 
 5 
 
 
 ffl 
 
 4 
 
 5 3 
 
 11 50 
 
 18 29 
 
 6 39 
 
 13 10 
 
 18 13 
 
 4 
 
 C* 
 
 3 
 
 4 45 
 
 11 16 
 
 18 13 
 
 6 57 
 
 13 44 
 
 18 29 
 
 3 '% 
 
 
 2 
 
 4 30 
 
 10 46 
 
 17 58 
 
 7 12 
 
 14 14 
 
 18 44 
 
 9 ■ 
 
 
 I 1 
 
 4 18 
 
 10 18 
 
 17 42 
 
 7 24 
 
 14 42 
 
 19 
 
 1 -I 
 
 
 
 4 12 
 
 10 
 
 17 30 
 
 7 30 
 
 15 
 
 19 12 
 
 
 
 r 1 
 
 4 24 
 
 10 10 
 
 17 28 
 
 7 18 
 
 14 50 
 
 19 14 
 
 1 1 
 
 
 2 
 
 4 34 
 
 10 20 
 
 17 28 
 
 7 8 
 
 14 40 
 
 19 14 
 
 2 
 
 
 ■^ 
 
 3 
 
 4 49 
 
 10 36 
 
 17 29 
 
 6 53 
 
 14 24 
 
 19 13 
 
 3 
 
 > 
 
 4 
 
 S 6 
 
 10 58 
 
 17 34 
 
 6 36 
 
 14 2 
 
 19 8 
 
 4 
 
 
 5 
 
 5 24 
 
 11 24 
 
 17 42 
 
 6 18 
 
 13 36 
 
 19 
 
 S 
 
 r 
 
 
 6 
 
 5 51 
 
 11 S3 
 
 17 45 
 
 fi SB 
 
 . ■ 
 
 13 8 
 
 18 59 
 
 6 J 
 
 
 The days from gfeatest declination are written in the first and last columns of the table. 
 The second, third, and fourth columns refer to south declination, and the fifth, sixth, and 
 seventh to north. The second column gives the number which is to be added according to 
 the declination to the time of high water obtained by means of Tables I and II to give the 
 next low water, which is a small low water. The third contains the numbers to be added to 
 the same to give the second or large high water. The fourth, the numbers to be added to the 
 same to give the second or large low water. The succeeding columns give the numbers to be 
 used in the same way for north declinations, to obtain the large low water, the small high 
 water, and the small low water. 
 
 The rise and fall of the same successive tides may be obtained by inspection from Table VI, 
 in which the first column, at the side, contains the time of transit, and the successive columns 
 the numbers corresponding to that time, and to the number of days from greatest declination. 
 The arrangement of this table is like that already given. 
 
 The numbers for the small ebb tide are first given ; then those for the rise from the small 
 low water to the largo high Avater ; next the large ebb tide ; and, lastly, the rise from the large 
 low water to the small high water. 
 
 TABLE VI. — Showing the rise and fall qf the several tidee corresponding to different hours of transit, and days from the greatest declination 
 
 of the moon, at San Francisco, California. 
 
 s 
 
 lVkoe 
 
 KBD TIDE, OR FROM L-«R»E 
 
 UIOH WATER TO LAReC 
 
 LOW WATER. 
 
 
 rROM LAReE LOW WATER TO ffMALL HIGH WATER. 
 
 
 .2 
 
 ■s 
 
 E 
 
 J? 
 
 s 
 
 
 
 Days from 
 
 moon's greatest 
 
 deelination. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Days from 
 
 moon' 
 
 s greatest declination. 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 "S 
 
 Before — 
 
 
 
 After— 
 
 Before— 
 
 
 
 After— 
 
 1 
 "S 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 
 6 
 
 S 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 Ft. 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 m. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Jl. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 
 
 
 4.6 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.3 
 
 2.8 
 
 2.4 
 
 2.0 
 
 1.9 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.3 
 
 2.6 
 
 3.0 
 
 3.7 
 
 4.3 
 
 5.2 
 
 5.0 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.4 
 
 . 4.0 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.6 
 
 3.2 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.7 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.4 
 
 2.7 
 
 2.2 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.7 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.4 
 
 3.1 
 
 3.7 
 
 4.6 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.1 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.2 
 
 2.9 
 
 2.6 
 
 2.7 
 
 2.8 
 
 2.« 
 
 2.9 
 
 3.1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.2 
 
 2.S 
 
 2.0 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.8 
 
 2.2 
 
 2.9 
 
 3.5 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.2 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.6 
 
 3.2 
 
 3.0 
 
 2.7 
 
 2.4 
 
 2.5 
 
 2.6 
 
 2.6 2.7 
 
 2.9 
 
 s 
 
 3 
 
 3.6 
 
 3.0 
 
 2.3 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.0 
 
 0.9 
 
 1.0 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.6 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.7 
 
 3.3 
 
 4.2 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.0 
 
 2.8 
 
 2.5 
 
 2.2 
 
 2.3 
 
 2.4 
 
 2.41 2.5 
 
 2.7 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 3.2 
 
 2.6 
 
 1.9 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.0 
 
 0.6 0.5 
 
 0.6 
 
 0.9 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.6 
 
 2.3 
 
 2.9 
 
 3.8 
 
 3,6 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.0 
 
 2.6 
 
 2.4 
 
 2.1 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.9 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.0 2.1 
 
 2.3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 2.9 
 
 2.3 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.1 
 
 0.7 
 
 0.3; 0.2 
 
 0.3 
 
 0.6 
 
 0.9 
 
 1.3 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.6 
 
 3.S 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.0 
 
 2.7 
 
 2.3 
 
 2.1 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.7 
 
 1.7 
 
 1.8 
 
 2.0 S 
 
 6 
 
 2.8 
 
 2.2 
 
 l.S 
 
 1.0 
 
 0.6 
 
 0.2 
 
 0-i 
 
 0.2 
 
 0.5 
 
 0.8 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.9 
 
 2.5 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.2 
 
 2.9 
 
 2.6 
 
 2.2 
 
 2.0 
 
 1.7 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.7 
 
 1.9 6 
 
 7 
 
 3.1 
 
 2.5 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.3 
 
 0.9 
 
 0.5 
 
 0.4 
 
 0.5 
 
 0.8 
 
 1.1 
 
 1.5 
 
 2.2 
 
 2.8 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.2 
 
 a.9- 
 
 2.5 
 
 2.3 
 
 2.0 
 
 1.7 
 
 1.8 
 
 1.9 
 
 1.9 2.0 
 
 2.2 7 
 
 8 
 
 3.5 
 
 2 9 
 
 23 
 
 1.7 
 
 1.3 
 
 0.9 
 
 0.8 
 
 0.9 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.9 
 
 2.6 
 
 3.2 
 
 4.1 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.6. 
 
 3.3 
 
 2.9 
 
 2.7 
 
 2.4 
 
 2.1 
 
 2.2 
 
 2.3 
 
 2.3| 2 4 
 
 2.6 
 
 8 
 
 a 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.3 
 
 2.6 
 
 2.1 
 
 1.7 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.2 
 
 1.3 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.9 
 
 2.3 
 
 3.0 
 
 3.6 
 
 4.5 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.1 
 
 2.t! 
 
 2.5 
 
 2.6 
 
 2.7 
 
 2 7 2.8 
 
 3.0 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 4.1 
 
 3.5 
 
 2.8 
 
 2.3 
 
 1.9 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.4 
 
 1.5 
 
 1.8 
 
 2.1 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.2 
 
 3.8 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.5 
 
 4.2 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.0 
 
 2.7 
 
 2.8 
 
 2.9 
 
 2.9 3.0 
 
 3.2 10 
 
 11 
 
 4.3 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.U 
 
 2.5 
 
 2.1 
 
 1.7 
 
 1.6 
 
 1.7 
 
 2.0 
 
 2.3 
 
 2.7 
 
 3.4 
 
 4,0 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.1 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.2 
 
 2.9 
 
 3.0 
 
 3.1 
 
 3.1 3.2 
 
 3.4 11 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 8UBVEY. 
 
 TABLE VL— Continued. 
 
 i 
 
 ■.laoi III TiDC, 01 rcoM LAiui mnH watii to laioi low wtni. 
 
 rrnoH Licoi tow wim to ihall nioii wiTta. 
 
 a 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 noan'f ftiaimi decUouloo. 
 
 
 
 Daytfrom 
 
 moon 'a (reiint dccUnuloa. 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 Bottv*- 
 
 * « 
 
 
 
 Aftsfw- 
 
 Boron— 
 
 
 
 AAn— 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 > 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 • 
 
 1 
 
 a 
 
 
 n. 
 
 n. 
 
 M 
 
 ft. 
 
 n. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 n. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 n. 
 
 Jl 
 
 ft. 
 
 Fl. «. 
 
 ft. 
 
 ft. 
 
 ft. 
 
 ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Fl. 
 
 Ft 
 
 ft. 
 
 Ft 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 Ft. 
 
 ft. 
 
 
 
 4.4 
 
 5.0 
 
 3.7 
 
 
 c.t 
 
 
 7.1 
 
 7.» 
 
 8.7 8.4 
 
 6.0 
 
 i.3 4.7 
 
 3.8 
 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.6 
 
 5.0 
 
 5.9 
 
 5.5 
 
 5.8 
 
 5.7 
 
 5.6 
 
 5.6 
 
 5.5 
 
 5.3 
 
 
 
 
 3.» 
 
 4.4 
 
 S.I 
 
 6.0 
 
 f.O 
 
 
 8.4 
 
 6.4 
 
 6.1 
 
 5.8, 
 
 5.4 
 
 4.7{ 4.1 
 
 3.9 
 
 
 3.7 
 
 4.0 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.6 
 
 4.9 
 
 5.9 
 
 5.1 
 
 3.0 
 
 5.0| 4.9 
 
 4.7 
 
 1 
 
 
 3.8 
 
 4.a 
 
 4.9 
 
 
 5.8 
 
 
 8.3 
 
 6.9 
 
 5.» 5.8 
 
 i.r 5.4 
 
 5.9 
 
 4.s: 3.» 
 
 3.0 
 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.8 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.7 
 
 5.0 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.5 
 
 9 
 
 
 3.4 
 
 4.0 
 
 4.7 
 
 
 5.8 
 
 
 6.1 
 
 6.0 
 
 5.0 
 
 4.3J 3.7 
 
 9.8 
 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.6 
 
 4.0 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.5 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.6 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.» 
 
 4.3 
 
 3 
 
 
 3.« 
 
 \« 
 
 4.3 
 
 
 5.9 
 
 
 5.7 
 
 5.6l 
 
 5.3' 5.a 
 
 4.(^ 
 
 3.9 J.9 
 
 9.4 
 
 
 9.9 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.6 
 
 3.8 4.1 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.a 
 
 4.1 
 
 3.9 
 
 4 
 
 
 a.7 
 
 3.3 
 
 4.0 
 
 
 4.9 
 
 
 5.41 
 
 5.9 
 
 5.« 4.7 
 
 4.3 
 
 3.8 3.0 
 
 9.1 
 
 
 9.8 
 
 9.9 
 
 3.:i 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.0 
 
 4.1 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.^ 
 
 3.K 
 
 3.6 
 
 5 
 
 
 9.6 
 
 3.a 
 
 9.9 
 
 
 4.8 
 
 
 8.3 
 
 S.9 
 
 4.»| 4.6 
 S.a^ 4.9 
 
 4.9 
 
 3.5 3.9 
 
 9.0 
 
 
 8.5 
 
 9.8 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.4 
 
 3.7 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.S 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.7 
 
 3.9 
 
 « 
 
 
 a. 9 
 
 Xi 
 
 4.9 
 
 
 3.1 
 
 
 5.8 
 
 5.S 
 
 4.5 
 
 3.8 3.8 
 
 9.3 
 
 
 9.8 
 
 8.1 
 
 S.S 
 
 3.7 
 
 4.0 
 
 4.3! 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.1 
 
 4.1 
 
 4.0 
 
 3.8 
 
 7 
 
 
 3.3 
 
 3.9 
 
 4.S 
 
 
 5.5 
 
 
 8.0| 
 
 5.9 
 
 5.8 5.:^ 4.9 
 
 4.9 3.6 
 
 9.7 
 
 
 3.9 
 
 3.5 
 
 3.9 
 
 4.1 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.5 
 
 4.5 
 
 4.4 
 
 4.9 
 
 e 
 
 
 3.7 
 
 4.3 
 
 S.O 
 
 
 5.9 
 
 
 6.4 
 
 8.3 
 
 8.9| &.? 5.3 
 
 4.6 4.0 
 
 3.1 
 
 
 3.8 
 
 3.9 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.5 4.8 
 
 5.1 
 
 S.O 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.9 
 
 4.8 
 
 4.8 
 
 9 
 
 It 
 
 3.9 
 
 4.S 
 
 S.9 
 
 
 6.1 
 
 
 8.6 
 
 8.5 
 
 6.a. 8.9 5.5 
 6.4 8.l| 5.7 
 
 4.8 4.3 
 
 3.3 
 
 
 3.8 
 
 4.1 
 
 •4.5 
 
 4.7 5.0 
 
 5.3 
 
 5.9 
 
 5.1 
 
 5.1 
 
 5.0 
 
 4.8 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 4.1 
 
 4.7 
 
 5.4 
 
 5.9 
 
 6.3 
 
 
 6.6. 8.7 
 
 5.0 4.4 
 
 3.5 
 
 37 
 
 4.0 
 
 4.3 
 
 4.7 
 
 4.9 s.a 
 
 5.5 
 
 5.4 
 
 5.3 
 
 5.3 
 
 5.9 
 
 5.8 
 
 11 
 
 Examjie, — ^Thus, in the preceding example the high water of February 7 was found to be 
 2.8 feet above mean low water. The declination being south, thil high water is the small one. 
 To obtain the fall of the next low water or small low water, wo enter table VI, with Oh. of 
 moon' B transit and two days after greatest declination, in the first part of the table and find 
 2.3 feet, which will be the difference in height of this high and low water. Entering with the 
 same transit and day in the second part, we find 3.3 feet, which is the rise of the largo high 
 water above the small low water; the difference between 2.3 feet and 3.3 feet or 1.0 foot is 
 the difference of height of the two successive high waters. It is easy to see how, in this way, 
 the soundings of a chart can be reduced to what they would be approximately at. all the 
 successive high and low waters. 
 
 Sailing directions. — In approaching Uie coast every opportunity should be seized for deter- 
 mining the vessel's position, as fogs and thick weather prevail near the land. Vessels coming 
 from tlie soiUhward make the coast about Pohit Ailo Nuevo, (lat. 37° 07' N.,) and follow it at 
 a distance of 4 or 5 miles up to the bar. Coming from the northivard they make Punta de los 
 Bttyes, in latitude 38° 00' N., and run E. SE. to the bell-boat, 22 miles. Coming from the 
 tcesttcard they first sight the South Farallone island, (latitude 37° 42' N.,) having the Hght- 
 honse upon it, and keep upon either side of it ; but it is preferable to go to the southward, as 
 the vicinity of the island has not yet been surveyed in detaiL From the South Farallone light- 
 house the Point Boncta light bears NE. by E., 23§ miles ; and the beli-boat outside the bar 
 bears NE. by E. J E., 16J miles. Coming from the run-tJitcesttmrd they i)as8 witliiu 2 or 3 
 miles of Punta de los Reyes ; 15 fathoms being found within a quarter of a mile from it, but 
 vessels are apt to lose the wind by getting too close under it. From the western extremity of 
 this point the Point Boneta light bears E. | S., distant 25^ miles, the line passing over the 
 tail of Duxbury reef, at a distance of l7i miles from Los Reyes. To the bell-boat off the bar 
 the bearing is SE. by E. | E., and distance 22^ miles. 
 
 The bell-boat, IJ mile outside of the bar, is placed on the prolongation of the range from 
 Alcatraz island to Fort Point, giving a course NE. } E. for vessels entering the Golden Gate, 
 and designed by Belcher the "fair way line," and he calls the island and fort the "fair way 
 
46 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT Or 
 
 marks." But with a heavy swell on the bar this range should be used merely as aline of 
 reference, because on the bar it passes over a small 5-fathom spot, while half a fathom more 
 can be obtained for a distance of two miles both north and south of it. In clear weather and 
 with a favorable wind a vessel can cross the bar in not less than 5 fathoms from the line, having 
 the north end of Alcatraz island just open by Point Boneta (NE. by E. | E.) round to the. shore 
 south of Point Lobos, (N. by "W. ? W.) Northward of the former line Ihe four-fathom bank 
 (having 3| fathoms on it) commences one mile west of Boneta, and stretches out over 3 miles, 
 with a breadth of one mile. Upon this bank the clipper Golden Fleece struck in 1857, and 
 came into port with 7 or 8 feet of water in her hold. She was the second of her name that 
 was unfortunate in entering the harbor, the first having been totally lost on Fort Point. Inside 
 of this four-fathom bank the deepest water can be got for entering, but it would be dangerous 
 for a sailing vessel to attempt it with a flood tide and light winds. While it is breaking on the 
 bank only a heavy swell is found through this 8^-fathom channel, and small sailboats have 
 passed in safety when they dared not try the bar. During clear, moderate weather any vessel 
 can cross the bar within the limits we have mentioned, without running until she has got on 
 the "fair way line," whereby she might lose her slant of wind. Should the wind fail, or be 
 light, and the current adverse, anchor outside the bar in 15 fathoms, mud and fine sand; or, 
 after crossing the bar, in 6 to 10 fathoms, fine gray sand, with red specks in some places. Run 
 in mid-channel between the *heads, and between Fort Point and the opposite shore, taking 
 special care not to approach Port Point too close, because the currents set around it irregularly 
 and with great rapidity, and the bottom is uneven and rocky. A depth of 69 fathoms is given 
 in the centre of the channel. In the Golden Gate we have measured an ebb current running 
 above 6 miles per hour. As a general rule, the winds increase within the heads, drawing in 
 very strongly abreast of Fort Point. "When off this point steer for Alcatraz light-house until 
 the north point of Telegraph Hill bears E. by S. , then steer to give it a berth of a quarter of 
 a mile,, running through among the shipping. 
 
 In making the port at night it is customary to run for the bell-boat, and cross the bar with 
 Fort Point light on with Alcatraz island light, or, better, the latter a little open to the north- 
 ward. But this practice frequently involves much delay and annoyance when the wind will 
 not permit a vessel to attain this position without a tack. With Boneta light bearing from N. 
 by W. to NE. by E., a vessel may boldly run on within those limits, and unless there is a heavy 
 swell safely cross the four-fathom bank. Give Boneta a berth of a mile, and when within the 
 heads, and Boneta abeam, gradually open Alcatraz light north of Fort Point, until abeam of 
 the latter; then run for Alcatraz until the lights of the shipping show the vessel's position. 
 Hauling up for them, anchor ofi" the north beach in 10 fathoms, or off the northeast front of,the 
 city in 10 fathoms, soft mud. 
 
 In coming upon the coast in thick foggy weather, sailing vessels should not run into less than 
 50 fathoms, because the water around the South Farallone and off Point San Pedro and Punta de 
 los Reyes is very bold. It is believed, however, that a 30-fathom bank exists at a considerable 
 distance to the westward of the last. If the Farallones are made, a course can be easily laid 
 for the bar, but it would be unadvisable to run into less than 20 fathoms, soft mud, if the bell- 
 boat be not heard, as the set and strength of the currents off the entrance to the bay are yet 
 imdetermined. Belcher says that, being caught in a fog, he anchored in 15 fathoms, to the south- 
 ward of the bar, and deteirmined "that southerly of the fair way line the ebb tide set N.NE., 
 flood S.SW." We suppose he means from the N.NE., and from the S,SW. During the 
 
THE DOTTED STATES COAST SUEVEY. 47 
 
 seaaoD of frcshota in tho Sacramonto and tributaries tho discolored water oatside the bar will 
 frequently point out tho position of tho entrance. 
 
 Steamers in thick weather were accustomed to run close along the coast, and endeavored to 
 make the land north of Point San Pedro, running in until they got about 15 fathoms, and then 
 laying a course for the bar, shoaling upon it to about 5 fathoms, and then gradually deepening, 
 while the fog-gun gave the direction of Bonotu light. Before the establishment of tho fog -gun 
 the steamship "Tennessee" was wrecked t^vo miles north of Bonota, when seeking for the 
 entrance in a dense fog; tho steamnhip S. S. Lewis just north of Duxbury reef; and the U. S. 
 revenue brig Lawrence between points Lobos and San Pedro. Now Jhe mail and coasting 
 st«amors have the bell-boat to run for, but we cannot state its efficiency. 
 
 As it 'has been frequently stated that Beechy did not intend to adopt tho range Fort Point 
 and Alcatraz island as a fair way over tho bar to the entrance, wo here quote his directions, as 
 published under authority of the Lords of the Admiralty. "In crossiqg the bar It is well" to 
 give the northern shore a good berth, and bring, the small white island, Alcatrasses, in one 
 with the fort or south bluff, if it can be conveniently done, as they may then insure 6 fathoms ; 
 but if ships get to the northward so as to bring tho south bluff in one with the island of Yorba 
 Buena, they will find but 4i; » » * * to the northward of this bearing the water is more 
 shallow." ; 
 
 "Approaching the entrance, the island of Alcatrasses may be opened with the fort, and the 
 best directions are to keep mid-channol, or the weather side." 
 
 In his narrative he says : ' ' The best part for crossing is with tho island of Alcatrasses in one 
 with the fort." — (Vol 1, page 345.) When approaching tho harbor he steered directly into it, 
 and in crossing the bar the depth of water gradually diminished to 5 fathoms; "this would 
 liave been of no consequence had it not been for a swell which rolled so heavily over tho bank 
 that it continually broke; and, though our depth of water was never loss than 4^ fathoms, the 
 ship, on two or three occasions, disturbed tho sand with her keel. The tide was, unfortunately, 
 against us, and the swell propelled the ship just sufficiently fast for her to steer without gaining 
 any ground, so that we remained in this position several hours." — (Vol. 1, page 345.) 
 
 Tho U. S. sloop-of-war Vincennes, during the cruise of the Exploring Expedition, anchored 
 on the bar in a calm, and when the flood tide made it brought up a swell that broke over her. 
 
 In beating out vessels start on the last quarter of the flood, make the first tack to the north- 
 ward of the Blossom Rock, and weather it on the second; thence they keep between Alcatraz 
 and the south shore, avoiding Bird Rock, one mile west of tho south end of tho island, and 
 giving a good berth to Fort Point, past which the ebb current will carry tliem rapidly, (with a 
 strong tendency towards tho south shore,) and a couple more tacks carry them clear of tho 
 heads. If tho vessel is bound to the northward, and the weather shuts in thick, with the wind 
 to the northwest, she maftes a tack off shore to the southward of the Farallones; if the weather 
 is clear short tacks are made off shore until she works up to Los Reyes, because the sea to the 
 leeward of that headland is much smoother and tho current less; then stands off until a course 
 can be made for her port. 
 
 The toinda. — It has been advised to wotk close along shore to northern ports during tho 
 summer northwest winds, and take tho chances of land breezes to make latitude, but the attempt 
 will double the length of any voyage. Baffling light airs and calms frequently exist along the 
 coast, while vessels several hundred miles off have strong NW. winds. Moreover, along the 
 coast we know that the current frequently sets two miles per hour from the northward. In our 
 
41 
 
 EEPORT OF THE SUPEKINT12n)ENT OF 
 
 experience we never yet have met with a wind off the land north of San Francisco, and very 
 rarely, indeed, south of it, except in the region of the Santa Barbara channel. As a general 
 rule, it may be safely stated that the summer winds follow the line of the coast, nearly, and 
 gradually draw towards and over the land. In winter, with winds from the southward, this is 
 not 60 marked. 
 
 Prom April to October, inclusive, the prevailing wind is from the northwest, changing to 
 west in valleys' opening upon the coast, but in no case so strongly as through the Golden Gate. 
 During the summer the wind sets in strong about 10 a. m., increasing until nearly sunset, when 
 it begins to die away. During its height it almost regularly brings in a dense fog, which, 
 working its way over the peninsula, meets that already advanced through the Golden Gate, and 
 envelopes San Francisco and the bay by sunset. As a rule, the breeze does not dispel the fog. 
 If a fog exists outside the wind is sure to bring it in, but the heated earth dissipates it for a time. 
 From November to March the wind is frequently from the southeast, blowing heavily, working 
 round to the southwest, with a large and broken swell from the SW., weather thick, rainy, and 
 squally; the wind not unfrequently ending at NW., with an ugly cross sea. During heavy 
 southeasters the sea breaks upon the San Francisco bar, clean across the entrance, presenting 
 a fearful sight. 
 
 During some winters a hard "norther" will spring up and blow steadily and strongly from 
 one to five days, with a clear blue sky and cold, bracing weather. Winds rarely blow from 
 points between north, round by the east, to southeast. 
 
 The further north we advance the heavier blow the gales in the winter. The northwest winds 
 are not predicted by the barometer, but, from the southeast, almost invariably; the mercury 
 falling one inch from its usual height of about thirty inches. When it begins to rise the wind 
 may be looked upon as soon to shift round by the west, and to decrease. Only in one instance 
 during our experience has this failed, and that was off the Strait of Juan de Fuca. 
 
 The seasons. — There are but two seasons on the Pacific coast, usually denominated the dry 
 and rainy seasons; the former corresponding to the Atlantic summer, the latter to the winter; 
 but much error exists in regard to them,' especially as to the amount of rain falling during the 
 rainy season. The following totals of rain that fell at San Francisco during each wet season, 
 from 1850 to 1857, wiU show that the yearly amount is not great. 
 
 During the wet season of 1850-51 there fell 7.1 inches. 
 
 1851-'52 
 
 1852-'53 
 
 1853-'54 
 
 1 854-' 55 
 
 1855-'56 
 
 1856-'57 to end of March 18.7 inches. 
 The following table will show how these amounts were distributed each month from Novem- 
 ber, 1850, to March, 1857: 
 
 18.0 
 33.2 
 23.0 
 24.6 
 21.3 
 
 jan monthly rain for January, 
 
 3.52 inches. 
 
 " " " February, 
 
 3.37 " 
 
 " " " March, 
 
 3.32 " 
 
 '^ '* " April, 
 
 3.07 " 
 
 " " May, 
 
 .73 " 
 
 " " " June, 
 
 .00 " 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST aURVEY. 4f 
 
 Bfean monthly rain for 
 
 July, 
 
 .00 
 
 inches 
 
 August, 
 
 .00 
 
 (( 
 
 September, 
 
 .18 
 
 (1 
 
 October, 
 
 .45 
 
 i ( 
 
 November, 
 
 2.08 
 
 i ( 
 
 December, 
 
 4.45 
 
 (1 
 
 ;e of 21.17 inches. 
 
 Giving a yearly average of 
 
 These figures show clearly what months constitute each of these two characteristic seasons. 
 
 To follow the case a little further, we find that for seven years, from 1850 to 1856, an average 
 of 0.5 inch of rain fell during October; 2.1 inches in November; 1.2 inch during the first half 
 of December, and 3.2 inches during the latter half of the month; 2.3 inches during the first 
 half of January, and 1.2 during the last half; 0.8 inch during the first half of February, 
 and 2.i inches during the last half; 1.8 inch during the first half of March, and 1.6 inch 
 during the last half; 1.5 inch during the first half of April, and 1.2 inch during the second; 
 and about 0. 7 inch in May. 
 
 The monthly means show that December is the rainiest month, and the last statement, that 
 during the last half of December and the first half of January more than one-fourtn of the 
 average falls. There is a very notable abatement from the middle of January to the middle of 
 February. In 1851 we noticed this particularly when stationed at Point Pinos, because the 
 above period was much prolonged. Again, in 1852, while observing near the Presidio of San 
 Francisco, we found this period to extend from the early part of January to near the end of 
 February. During the latter part of March heavy rains occur, and about the middle of April. 
 The southerly winds generally bring the rain. During the seasons we passed about San Fran- 
 cisco, we never heard thunder or saw lightning; and never but once saw snow fall, and then 
 only at an elevation of 400 feet; the line being distinctly marked, and the elevation being well 
 determined by a knowledge of the height of the hills. 
 
 The followng statement will give a general idea of the temperature of the sea-board. The 
 interior is muCh warmer, but on account of the dryness of the atmosphere the effect is not so 
 enervating to the system as a lower temperature on the Atlantic. 
 
BEPORT OP THE SUPEEINTENDENT OF 
 
 Mean temperature at sunrise and noon for 6 years from 1851 to 1856, computed from the 
 California State register for 1857: 
 
 January 
 
 February 
 
 March 
 
 April 
 
 May 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 August 
 
 September 
 
 October 
 
 November 
 
 December 
 
 Average 
 
 Sunrise. 
 
 Deg. Fahr. 
 44.0 
 46.9 
 47.6 
 49 3 
 49.9 
 51.4 
 62.6 
 53.7 
 54.0 
 52.7 
 49.8 
 45.2 
 
 49.7 
 
 Noon. 
 
 Deg. Fahr. 
 67.7 
 60.5 
 63. 1 
 65.6 
 64.5 
 68.1 
 67.8 
 68.2 
 69.9 
 68.4 
 61.9 
 55.7 
 
 The lowest temperature experienced at San Francisco in the above 6 years was 25° Fah., in 
 January, 1854. In 1852, '53, '56, the temperature was always above freezing; falling no lower 
 than 40° in 1853. 
 
 The highest temperature was 98°, in September, 1852, and that may be considered remarkably 
 high; 90° having been reached but once. 
 
 Statistics. — Previous to the discovery of gold in California, San Francisco bay furnished few 
 inducements for traders or whalers to visit. Cattle were cheap, but about the only provisions 
 to be obtained, and these were valuable solely for their hide and tallow; "fine fat bullocks, 
 weighing from 400 to 500 pounds, hide included, were purchased at $5 each, and sheep at $2." — 
 (Belcher, Vol. 1, page 135.) "All the forts were in ruins and not even a single gun mounted" 
 at the time of his visit in 1837, and Wilkes' description of the few miserable adobe buildings 
 at Yerba Buena, the site of San Francisco, fully proves how fast the country was driving to 
 wreck. In 1848 the resources, the population, and geography of the State were almost unknown ; 
 but since then she has commanded the attention of the world. She stands alone as an example 
 of all past time of a country emerging so suddenly from obscurity, and at one gigantic stride 
 assuming the importance and complicated relations of a large empire. In less than ten years 
 she has acquired a population of over half a million, and has developed the wonderful resources 
 COD prised within her limited boundaries. On the site of half a dozen adobe buildings has 
 risen a city of 75,000 inhabitants, in whose streets s(f« seen the dress and heard the tongue of 
 every nation. Over 600 ships, under every known flag, have been anchored at one time in the 
 harbor of San Francisco. The commercial enterprise developed has given birth to a new era 
 of naval architecture; the old fashioned full, clumsy bowed ships, that carried the early adven- 
 turers round Cape Horn, and made their passages in something less than a year, have played 
 out their part, and have been succeeded by the famed clippers. At the close of 1857 less 
 than ten of the old hulks disfigured the harbor. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 51 
 
 In the first three qnarters of 1849 no less than 509 large vessela entered the bay; at the end 
 of August of that year there wore G2,000 tons of shipping at anchor, exclusive of vessels running 
 on the Sacramento, San Joachim, the adjacent bays and in the coasting trade. On the 24th of 
 September over 11,000 tons of shipping entered the Golden Gate, and at the end of September, 
 there were 94,500 tons in the harbor. For a city one year o\^, and 17,500 miles from the 
 nearest eastern ports, this may well be viewed as marvellous. 
 
 Clipper passages. — The number of clippers arriving at San Francisco from Now York during 
 the 8 years 1850 to 1857, was 503, and the average length of the passage was 133 days. In 
 the same years 296 arrived from Boston, and the average passage was 134 days. 
 
 In 1850 six clippers arrived from New York averaging only 115 days; the Sea Witch being 
 reported at 97 days, but her actual passage was 101. The average passage of all American 
 vessels that arrived from Atlantic ports was 187 days. 
 
 In 1851 only two clippers made the passage in less than 100 days — the Surprise itt^, and 
 the Flying Cloud in 90, both from New York. 
 
 In 1852 the Flying Fish made it in 98 days from Boston, and the Sword Fish in 93 from New 
 York. 
 
 In 1853 it was made by the Contest in 97 days, Flying Fish in 92, John Gilpin in 93, and the 
 Oriental reported 100; all from Now York. 
 
 In 1854 the passage was made by the David Brown in 98 days, the Flying Cloud in 89, the 
 Hurricane in 99 , the Witchcraft in 97 from New York; and by the Romance of the Seas in 96 
 from Boston. 
 
 In 1855 no vessel made it in 100 days, although the Herald of the Morning reported in 100, 
 and Neptune's Car in 100 from New York, and the Westward Ho in 100 from Boston. 
 In 1856 the Antelope made it in 97 days, and the Sweepstakes in 94 from Now York. 
 In 1857 the Flying Dragon arrived in 98 days, and the Great Republic in 92 from New York. 
 The Danish clipper Cimber made the trip from Liverpool in 106 days, the quickest on record. 
 The shortest passage made from New York to San Francisco by steamship, via the Isthmus, 
 was by the Moses Taylor on the eastern side, and the Golden Age on the western; their actual 
 running time 19 days 23 hours; totiil time from dock to wharf 21 days, 2 hours, 13 minutes, 
 arriving at San Francisco February 26, 1858. 
 
 The Northern Light, of Boston, is reported to have made the run from S«n Francisco to 
 New York, in ballast, in 75j days, and the Trade Wind, with cargo, in 84 days. 
 
 The year 1857 will very well represent the average length of passages from other ports, and 
 is herewith introduced. 
 
 From China 32 vessels arrived, averaging 59 days; the quickest trip from Shanghai being 
 34 days, by the Tern Spray, and from Hong Kong in 35 days, by the schooner Qiulietta. 
 
 From Honolulu 19 vessels arrived, averaging 19 J days; the shortest trip being made by the 
 barque Yankee, in 13 days. 
 
 From Valparaiso 17 vessels arrived, averaging 53 days; the shortest passage being made by 
 the Danish ship Velox, in 37 days. 
 
 From Australia 13 vessels arrived, averaging 81J days; the shortest passage by the topsail 
 schooner Vaquero, in 57 days. 
 
 Tonnage of San Francisco. — At the end of the fiscal year, June 30, 1855, there were registered, 
 enrolled, and licensed, at the custom-house of San Francisco, owned wholly or in part by citizens 
 
52 ^ EEPOET OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 of California, 702 steam and sailing vessels engaged in trade upon the Pacific, distributed under 
 the following heads: 
 
 Registered tonnage. 
 
 3 steamships 1, 058 tons. 
 
 36 ships '■ 14,428 tons. 
 
 59 barques 15, 999 tons. 
 
 50 brigs 8, 592 tons. 
 
 49 schooners • 5,887 tons. 
 
 Total 45,964 
 
 Enrolled tannage. 
 
 45 stenBships 11,223 tons. 
 
 1 ship 386 tons. 
 
 17 barques 3, 759 tons. 
 
 28 brigs ■ 4,667 tons. 
 
 127 schooners 8, 774 tons. 
 
 59 sloops 2, 137 tons. 
 
 Total 30,946 
 
 In addition to the above, there were licensed at that time, as coasters, 228 schoone'rs 
 
 and sloops below 20 tons each, with an aggregate tonnage of 2,399 
 
 Making a total of permanent registered, enrolled, and licensed tonnage of 702 
 vessels of 79, 309 
 
 We have no means now at hand for ascertaining the increase up to 1857, but the following 
 tables, exhibiting the tonnage entering and clearing the port of San Francisco, may not be 
 without interest: 
 
 Tormage of the port of San Francisco. 
 
 
 ABRIYAI8. 
 
 DEPAETUKKS. 
 
 Years. 
 
 American vessels 
 from American 
 & foreign ports. 
 
 Foreign vessels 
 from foreign 
 ports. 
 
 American vessels 
 to American & 
 foreign ports. 
 
 Foreign vessels to 
 foreign ports. 
 
 1849 
 
 Ihna. 
 108,644 
 255,428 
 292,940 
 268,737 
 404,220 
 336,058 
 325, 102 
 305,519 
 382, 958 
 
 Tbm. 
 
 65,729 
 
 131,628 
 
 125,965 
 
 132,094 
 
 124,874 
 
 76,127 
 
 55, 148 
 
 40,378 
 
 44, 608 
 
 Ihm. 
 
 Books of custom- 
 fire. 
 
 344, 760 
 501,229 
 426,775 
 369,213 
 347,451 
 291,879 
 
 Tons. 
 
 1850 
 
 house destroyed by 
 
 1851 
 
 
 1852 
 
 131,111 
 
 1853 
 
 137,110 
 
 1854 
 
 83,871 
 
 1855 
 
 48 322 
 
 1866 
 
 41,809 
 45 143 
 
 1857 
 
 
 
TUE UNITED STATES 6OA8T SURVEY. 
 
 53 
 
 A great number of vessels that urrivod iu 1849, '50, '51, began to clear in 1852, when 
 seamen could bo obtained. 
 
 Tho following shows in more detail the shipping operations of the year 1857: 
 
 Table showing the shipping entered and deared at the port of San Francisco for the year 1857. 
 
 
 Entered. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 No. of Amerioftn Trurnli firom American ports. ........ 
 
 1,328 
 130 
 125 
 
 291,561 
 
 tio. of American ▼e«eU from foreign ports........... 
 
 91, 397 
 
 No. of foreiiim vesBels from foreltrn oorts - .. 
 
 44 608 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 1,583 
 
 427,666 
 
 No. of American veMels for American porta .......... 
 
 Clewed. 
 
 616 
 203 
 1S9 
 
 Tons. 
 
 108,638 
 183, 341 
 
 No. of American vcMels for foreign port« 
 
 No. of foreign vaaeelB for foreign ports....... ........ 
 
 41,143 
 
 
 
 
 848 
 
 337,022 
 
 The difference noticeable between the vessels entered from and cleared for American ports 
 is owing to tho fact that these vessels are not required to clear at the custom-house, and 
 therefore many departures are not noticed. 
 
 TaUe showing the total tonnage entered from eastern States and from foreign ports, with the amount 
 
 <f freights paid upon, the cargoes. 
 
 Years. 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Freight. 
 
 1863 
 
 
 407,235 
 254,714 
 247,682 
 236,389 
 197,814 
 
 til, 752, 084 
 5,311,612 
 
 1864 
 
 1866 
 
 3,999,755 
 4,592,104 
 2,842,671 
 
 1866 
 
 1857 
 
 
 
 The steamship tonnage entered from Panama and San Juan del Sud, and the coasting tonnage 
 entered, were as follows: 
 
 
 YewB. 
 
 9 
 
 steamship. 
 
 CoastliiK. 
 
 1853 
 
 7b«u. 
 
 83,432 
 
 85, 735 
 
 77,280 
 
 66,477 
 
 47,716 
 
 TonM. 
 87,213 
 
 1854 
 
 59, 230 
 
 1866 
 
 146,495 
 138, 149 
 
 1B56 
 
 1857 
 
 182,036 
 
 
54 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 During the years 1856, 185T, the movements of the fillibuaters retarded, and finally put a stop 
 to all travel across the isthmus of Nicaragua, and the steamships were hauled o£F, 
 
 TaNe of the vcdtte of imports, free and otherwise, into the district of San Francisco. 
 
 1854 $5,899,620 
 
 1855 7,144,075 
 
 1856 9,155,507 
 
 1857 6,397,354 
 
 TaMe showing the value of imports of certadn articles, siich as fiour, grain, salt meats, &c,, now 
 
 produced in Oalifamm. 
 
 1853 * $14,021,940 
 
 1854 5,161,586 
 
 1855 2,444,626 
 
 1856 1,248,343 
 
 1857 1,631,467 
 
 Toi)ie showing the receipts of customs at the port of San Fram/nsco, and the expenditures. 
 
 Tear. 
 
 Reoeipte. 
 
 Expenditure*. 
 
 1848,1849 
 
 $1,581,640 
 1,908,220 
 2,316,675 
 2,008,410 
 2,589,406 
 1,563,103 
 1,804,904 
 1,713,408 
 Nearly 1,550,000. 
 
 
 1860 
 
 $303 03S 
 
 1851 
 
 1 009 436 
 
 1852 
 
 655 6()4 
 
 1853 
 
 684 114 
 
 1854 
 
 646 288 
 
 1856 
 
 438*684 
 
 1856 
 
 441 678 
 
 1857 
 
 
 
 
 Value of the exports of GdLifornia produce from Sam, Francisco. 
 
 1855 $4,877,519 
 
 1856 4,157,265 
 
 1857 4,493,845 
 
 Of these amounts the following are the principal items : 
 
 Year. 
 
 Wheat, oats, barley. 
 
 Flour. 
 
 Quicksilver. 
 
 1854 
 
 $50,638 
 
 224, 993 
 
 91,016 
 
 $68,861 
 815,960 
 766,212 
 
 $648,317 
 
 1855 
 
 975,621 
 
 1856 
 
 833,185 
 
 1857 
 
 954, 100 
 
 
 
 
 
THE UNtTED STATES COAST SURVEY. 
 
 ss 
 
 Tdble thoicing the paaaengera arrived by ettamship and sailing veasda at the port of San FrcmcUoo. 
 
 Tmt. 
 
 Arrived. 
 
 - 
 
 91,405 
 36,462 
 27,182 
 66, 988 
 33,233 
 47,631 
 29, 198 
 28,119 
 24.769 
 
 n«pftrted. 
 
 • 
 
 1849 .... 
 
 
 I860 
 
 
 1851 
 
 
 1852 
 
 1853 
 
 1854 
 
 22, 946 
 30,001 
 23, 508 
 
 1866 
 
 1866 
 
 185T 
 
 22,898 
 22,747 
 16, 906 
 
 The following table will exhibit the tonnage movemeBt of the principal cities of the United 
 States for the year 1856 : 
 
 City. 
 
 Entered. 
 
 Clewed 
 
 Total. 
 
 KewYtrk 
 
 1,681,669 
 682, 166 
 663,067 
 346,897 
 173, 179 
 
 1,620,623 
 647,404 
 773,162 
 389, 260 
 129,739 
 
 3, 202, 282 
 
 Boston 
 
 1,329,669 
 
 
 1,436,229 
 
 Rftn FrAociiioo ............ 
 
 736, 157 
 
 Philadelphia 
 
 302, 918 
 
 
 
 It would be doing injustice to the State not to give a few facta relating to her principal 
 mineral wealth. 
 
 The average amount of gold taken from the country during the last seven years has been 
 fully $55,000,000 per annum; the average value of the exported cotton crop of the United 
 SAtes for the same period was $100, 000, 000; and of the breadstuffs and provisions $55,500,000. 
 
 The following table exhibits the amount of gold shipped, per manifest, from San Francisco 
 from 1849 to 1857: 
 
 1^9 $4,921,250 
 
 1850 27,676,346 
 
 1851 42,682,695 
 
 1852 46,586, 134 
 
 1853 57,331,024 
 
 1854 II 51, .328,653 
 
 1855 43,080,211 
 
 1856 48,887,543 
 
 1857 48,976,207 
 
 To the end of 1856 there was coined at the United States mint and branches $360,744,914 
 of California gold, but the amount manifested was only $322, 393, 856 for the same period. 
 
u 
 
 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 This shows that 138,351,058 had been carried to the United States mint by private hands, and, 
 allowing that a large amount had likewise been carried to foreign countries, we may safely 
 assume that five and a half millions are annually carried out of the State by persons leaving 
 it. Of the amount retained in the State for circulation we can form no fair estimate. 
 The gold coinage of the branch mint at San Francisco has been as follows: 
 
 Year. 
 
 Coin. 
 
 Bars. 
 
 Total. 
 
 1854 
 
 $4,084,207 
 16,498,300 
 25,146,700 
 
 $5,631,151 
 3,359,377 
 3,547,001 
 
 $9,715,35S 
 19 857 677 
 
 1855 
 
 1856 
 
 28,693,701 
 
 18570 
 
 20 407.000 
 
 
 
 
 
 * Suspended operations about five months. 
 
 The following figures will exhibit the marked influence which the gold product of California 
 has had upon the coinage of the United States. Previous to 1850 the total^coinage of the 
 Mint, including the coinage of the branch mints, from the commencement of their operations, 
 was $85,349,201; silver coinage, $30,344,808.- From 1850 there has been coined of gold, 
 $370,889,738, andof silver $75,581,465. The total coinage of gold, silver, and copper for the 
 above respective periods was $150,017,714, in 57 years; and $412,746,812 in seven years. 
 The entire deposit of domestic gold at the mint and branches, to the close of 1856 was 
 $3r8,880,7l3, of which $360,744,914 were from California. 
 
 Agriculture. — The amount of land in California adapted to the purposes of agriculture is 
 estimated at 41,622,400 acres, exclusive of the swamp and overflowed lands, estimated at 
 5,000,000; which, when reclaimed, will produce every variety of crop. On the Sacramento 
 the experiment is being successfully made to cultivate rice with Chinese labor. The amount 
 of grazing land is estimated at 30,000,000 acres. The amount of land under cultivation in 
 1856 was 578,963 acres; and of that enclosed for the purposes of agriculture about 120,000. 
 The amount in wheat was 176,869 acres, and the product 3,979,032 bushels; in barley 154,674 
 acres, and the product 4,639,678 bushels; in oats 37,602 acres, and the product 1,263,359 
 bushels. Part of this season was characterized by a severe drought. < 
 
 The president of the State Agricultural Society, in his address of 1856, says: "It is now a 
 well ascertained fact, established by several years' experience, that California stands without a 
 rival in respect to her capacity for producing wheat and other small grains. She produces it 
 in larger quantities to the acre, of better quality, with more certainty, and with less labor 
 than any other country in the known world." 
 
 Dr. Trask, in the " Geology of the State," says: "Toward the foot-hills of the mountains 
 on the west of the San Joachim valley, is a low table of the valley, apparently destitute of 
 water, either for the support of vegetation or animal life; in some parts this land has a slight, 
 gravelly appearance, but this is not general. On one rancho, situated on this plateau, there 
 have been two full crops of barley harvested from the same piece of ground, and when I visited 
 this place, in October, the third crop was being then harrowed in, the whole having occurred 
 within the term of 273 days." — (Page 54.) 
 
 The following extract from the report of the visiting committee for 1856 will best illustrate 
 the extraordinary capacity of the soil for the culture of this important grain : ' ' Near Alviso, 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SUEVET. 
 
 J^ 
 
 Santa Clara county, there is a field of barley, fifty acres in extent, which has averaged the 
 pretont season forty-three bushels to the acre. This is the fifth crop from a single sowing; it 
 has received no special care, and may be regarded as a memorable example of a succession of 
 volnnteer crops. " 
 
 The cultivation of the grape and its manufacture into wines and brandies is rapidly assuming 
 a degree of importance, and increasing to such an extent that these products must soon become 
 one of the mo.-^t rclinblo and lucrative branches of the resources of the State. The experience 
 of the last few years has proved conclusively that this country produces this fruit in the greatest 
 variety and abundance; and in a few years will surpass the most extensive wine producing 
 countries of the world. The number of vines in cultivation, in 1856, was 1,532,224, and the 
 average yield over fifteen pounds of fruit. The number of all kinds of fruit trees that year 
 was 1,296,783, and the fruit far superior to any on the Atlantic or Gulf seaboard. 
 
 The two great staples, cotton and flax, will soon render the country independent of other 
 places for her manufactures; whilst the production of silk bids fair to go hand in hand with 
 both. The true wealth of the country has but commenced its development, and in a short 
 period she will successfully compete with the Atlantic States and Europe for the markets of the 
 Pacific. 
 
 Regular mail communication is maintained by steamships with the Atlantic and the Gulf 
 States twice a month ; crossing the Isthmus of Panama by 47^ miles of railroad. The transit 
 from steamer to steamer occupying four hours. For tho year ending Juno 30, 1856, 
 the number of letters conveyed by this route was 2,365,902, and newspapers 3,463,817; the 
 number of letters and newspapers exchanged between the United States and Great Britain, in 
 British mails by the Collins, Cunard, Bremen, and Havre lines, for the same time, was 3,909,128 
 (letters,) and 3,196,014 (newspapers.) The comparison speaks well for the modern El Dorado. 
 
 Tho entrance to San Francisco bay is supposed to have been first seen by Bartolome Ferrelo, 
 pilot and successor to Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, who, running down the coast with a gale strong 
 from the north, on the 3d of March, 1543, descried what he supposed to be the mouth of a 
 great river, having every appearance of draining a large extent of country; and steering SE. 
 and E.SE. he soon after sighted Point Pinos, and on the 5th the port in tho Island of Juan 
 Rodriguez, where Cabrillo is supposed to have died. If this account bo correct, he was the 
 first European that beheld the Golden Gate. 
 
 Sir Francis Drake visited California, which ho named Now Albion, in 1579, and we are of 
 opinion that in this bay he overhauled and repaired his vessel; "it having pleased God to send 
 him into a fair and good bay, with a good wind to enter the same." Curiously enough wo find 
 the statement that ' ' there is no part of the earth here to be taken up wherein there is not 
 some probable show of gold and silver." The bay in which he "triitmed" his ships was 
 certainly known before the timo of Vizcaino, who having separated from his tender sought 
 her in Port Francisco, and, according to Vencga's account, "to see if anything was to be found 
 of the San Augustine, Avhich, in the year 1595, had, by order of his majesty and the viceroy, 
 been sent from the Philippines by the governor to survey tho coast of California, under the 
 direction of Sebastian Rodriguez Ccrmenon, a pilot of known abilities; but was driven ashore 
 in this harbor by the violence of the wind; and amongst others on board the San Augustine 
 was the pilot Francisco Volauos, who was also chief pilot of the squadron." Others suppose 
 Vizcaino to have ascended San Francisco bay as far as the present site of Benicia. 
 
 8 
 
58 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 Vizcaino came to anchor in the Capitana, behind the high point of land, which he called La 
 Punta de Los Reyes. 
 
 A land discovery of the bay was made in 1769 by Gaspar de Portola, who left San Diego to 
 establish a Jesuit colony at Monterey, but by travelling along the eastern slope of the Coast 
 mountains he passed Monterey, and towards the close of October came unexpectedly upon the 
 shores of a great bay, which they supposed to be the Port St. Francisco of the old navigators. 
 Having no supplies, the party returned to San Diego. 
 
 Vancouver visited the bay in 1792 and 1793, and gives a good genei-al map of the entrance. 
 
 The first accurate hydrographic survey was made by Capt. Fred. W. Beechy, in the Blos- 
 som, in November, 1826, he carrying his work to the Strait of Karquines. 
 
 In October, 1837, Capt. Sir EdAvard Belcher ascended the Sacramento with the boats of the 
 Sulphur, and starting from the ' ' Fork ' ' carried the survey down the river to connect with 
 Beechy's survey. The "Fork" he calls Point Victoria, and places in latitude 38° 46' 47" and 
 0° 47' 31".5 east of the observatory on Yerba Buena. The river but a short distance above 
 his starting point was fordable, and thence to its mouth traversed in its meanderings 150 
 miles. 
 
 The Coast Survey charts of 1857 furnish all that can be desired in regard to the lower part 
 of the bay of San Francisco, the upper bays, and the waters approaching the mouth of the 
 Sacramento. 
 
 DUXBUEY POINT AND EEEF. 
 
 From Point Boneta to Duxbury Point, forming the west side of Ballenas bay, the course is 
 W. by N. I N., and the distance 9y miles, the shore-line at the base of the hills running 
 nearly two points more to the northward to form Ballenas bay. The point is a table-land 
 about 100 feet high, stretching along the coast for 2 or 3 miles, and gradually rising until it 
 reaches the base of the mountains. The bay inside the point is at the foot of the mountains, 
 and, except small crooked channels, is bare at low tides, and filled with small islets. The 
 south side of the bay is bounded by a long, narrow sand spit, stretching so nearly across it 
 as to leave an entrance of but 100 yards wide at the southwest part of it. Only a few small 
 vessels run between this place and San Francisco. 
 
 Duxbury reef makes out over a mile from the southwest part of the point, and stretches 
 directly towards Point Boneta, with 4 to 8 fathoms regular bottom of sand and mud between it 
 and the shore to the eastward, affording safe anchorage in northerly weather. 
 
 Quite close to Duxbury Point the steamship S. S. Lewis went ashore, April 9, 1853, in a 
 thick fog and calm, while running at her ordinary speed. She was backed off and ran ashore 
 again within a few hundred yards to the northward, and was totally lost in the breakers. 
 
 SIE FBANCIS DEAKE'S BAY. 
 
 From the tail of Duxbury reef to the west end of Los Reyes the course is W. | N., and 
 distant 17 J miles. To the east end the course is W. by N., distant 14f miles. From Duxbury 
 the shore is bold and compact, running nearly NW. for about eight miles, then curving 
 regularly to the westward until it reaches its greatest latitude at the Estero de Limantour, 
 which bears N. by E. from the east end of Los Reyes, distant 3 miles ; thence the line curves 
 to the southward and southwest, one mile west of the point, leaving a long, high, narrow 
 point stretching to the east, and ofi" which the breakers extend half a mile. This curving 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SUKVET. 69 
 
 ehoro-line forms Sir Francis Drake's bay, which affords a large and admirable anchorage in 
 heavy northwest weather ; and by anchoring close in under the north side of the point, in 
 4 or 5 fathoms, hard bottom, good but contracted anchorage is obtained in soutbeitot gales, as 
 the swell rolling in from the SW. is broken by the reef. 
 
 Several esteros or lagoons open into the north side of the bay, but their entrances are very 
 narrow and shoal. The largest is the Estero de Limantour, near which the Mexican vessel 
 Ayachucho is reported to have been wrecked in 1841. 
 
 The shore north of Boneta is bold and high, presenting a marked and peculiar undulating 
 surface on the sea front. This characteristic is well delineated on the Coast Survey map of 
 the approaches and entrance to San Francisco bay, published in 1857. 
 
 North of Duxbury the hard rocky shore gradually merges into cliffs, consisting chiefly of 
 yellowish clay and sand resting upon granite, and as the surface is regularly undulating, Avith 
 the direction of tlie alternate ridges and valleys at right angles to the shore, the wearing 
 action of the surf forms a continuous series of round topped, bright, vertical bluffs, averaging 
 nearly 100 feet high, and presenting a very noticeable feature from the sea. Its resemblance 
 to portions of the coast of England was one of the reasons which induced Drake to apply the 
 name New Albion to the country. 
 
 The mountains in the back ground rise over 2,000 feet, and the "Table Mountain" of 
 Bcechy attains an elevation of 2, 570 feet^ but=many ^igliec euBunito are- found beyond. A 
 few large red-wood trees are seen along the top of the ridge. 
 
 From South Farallone light-house Table Mountain bears NE. ^ N., distant 24 miles; its 
 geographical position is — 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 37 55 43.0 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 33 38.8 west. 
 
 A. m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 8 10 14.6. 
 
 It was called Mount Palermo by the United States Exploring Expedition, but is known only 
 by the name hero used. 
 
 Point Reyes. 
 
 This is the most prominent and remarkable headland north of Point Conception. It is 
 distinctly visible from the entrance to San Francisco bay, and the summit of the ridge presents 
 an irregular jagged outline, with the highest part about one-fourth of its length from the 
 western extremity. Its south face is a precipitous wall of hard sienitic granite, rising boldly 
 from the ocean, attaining an elevation of 597 feet in 300 yards, and stretching nearly in a 
 straight line E. by N. and W. by S. for 3 miles. This direction is peculiar on the coast, and 
 would not be expected from a consideration of the trend of the coast mountains and of the 
 Farallones, which are in line NW. and SE. On the north side the cape falls away regularly to 
 a low undulating neck of land, cut up by esteros making in from Drake's bay, and from-Tomalea 
 bay ou the nortli. When made from the southward it is raised as a long, high island; but on 
 approaching it from the westward it is projected upon the mountains running north from Table 
 mountain, and its characteristics are not so readily recognized. Its base is very broken and 
 rocky, aod bordered by crags and hundreds of rocks, but may be boldly approached, and 8 
 fathoms, hard bottom, obtained within less than a quarter of a mile. Off the eastern 
 
6Q REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 extremity a reef makes out half a mile in continuation of the point. Upon this reef it breaks 
 heavily in bad southerly weather, but 9 fathoms can be had close to the breakers. Off the 
 western head a depth of 12 fathoms is found quite near to the rocks. 
 
 Vessels bound to San Francisco from the northward always make Los Eeyes, and, when up to 
 it, sight two mountains on the southern peninsula of San Francisco as islands. One of these 
 is Blue mountain, 1,100 feet high, and the other nearly 1,300 feet. 
 
 The ligU-honse of Punta de los Reyes is in course of construction on the western head, about 
 a quarter of a mile from the point. It will be elevated about 500 feet, and illuminate a sector 
 of 255 degrees. The geographical position of the site selected is — 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 37 59 3:T.4 north. 
 
 Longitude 123 00 16 west. 
 
 h. m. s. .y 
 
 Or, in time 8 12 01.1 
 
 Magnetic variation 15" 45' E., in 1857, with a yearly increase of 1'.4. 
 
 This headland was discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, and placed by him about the latitude of 
 40°; but by applying the correction 1° 50', obtained from his erroneous latitudes of San Diego, 
 Point Conception, (Cape Galera,) and Punta Gorda, (San Martin,) the latitude of 40° becomes 
 38° 10', which is within ten miles of the Los Reyes. We believe he called it Cabo Mendozino, 
 in honor of the viceroy of Mexico who despatched him; but this name had been applied to 
 every cape jSrst made by the Spanish galleons on the passage from the Philippines to La 
 Natividad, New Spain. In this region Cabrillo found the mountains covered with snow. There 
 can be little doubt that he also saw the Farallones. 
 
 The present name was given by Vizcaino in 1603. 
 
 Los Farallones de los Frayles. — The southern and principal one of these seven small rocky 
 islets lies off the Golden Gate, at a distance of 23^ miles; the whole group being disposed in 
 a nearly continuous line running NW. 
 
 The South Farallonf is the largest and highest, extending nearly a mile east and west, attaining 
 an elevation of about 340 feet above the sea, and presenting to the eye a mass of broken, 
 jagged rocks, upon which no vegetation exists, except a few stunted weeds. The rocks are 
 sharp, angular masses, which, becoming detached by the operations of natural causes, roll 
 down upon the more level parts of the islet and cover it with irregular boulders. Notwith- 
 standing that it is the outcrop of an immense dyke of granite, the condition of the superficial 
 portion is such that it could be separated into small fragments by a pick or crowbar. A more 
 desolate and barren place can hardly be imagined. From the hills about the Golden Gate the 
 South Farallone is plainly visible, rising in regular pyramidal form. 
 
 South Farallone light-house.- — The tower stands on the highest peak of the principal island. 
 It is built of brick, 17 feet in height, and is surmounted by a lantern and illuminating appa- 
 ratus of the first order of the system of Fresnel. It is a revolving tohite light shoiving a prolonged 
 flash of 10 seconds every minute throughout the horizon. It is elevated about 360 feet above 
 the mean level of the sea, and should be visible, ire a favorable state of the atmosphere, from 
 a height of — 
 
 10 feet, at a distance of 25.4 miles. 
 
 20 ....do. do. •■•■ 20.9 " 
 
 30 ••••do. do. .••■ 28.1 " 
 
 60.... do. do. .■••30.7 " 
 
FOU WHISTLE ON THE SOUTH FABALLON 
 P*gr 61, 
 
 AddiUon. j^ January, 18.'i9, a ftg whistle, of six inches in diameter, was placed on the south 
 side of the eastern part of the island, about 275 feet from the water. It is erected 
 over a natural hole, in the roof of a subterranean passage, connected with and open to 
 the ocean, and is blown by the rush of air through the passage, caused by the sea 
 breaking into its mouth. The sound should be heard in the vicinity at all times, (its 
 loudness depending upon the height of the tide and the waves,) except about an hour 
 and a half before and alter low water, when the sea does not enter the mouth of the 
 passage, [t is said to have been heard at a distance of seven or eight miles. 
 
 THE M DOLE FABALLON, 
 
 '!rrectu>o. Is a single rock, between 50 and 60 yards in diameter, and rising 20 or 30 feet 
 above the water. It lies N. 56° W., distant 2i miles from the light-house on the South 
 Farallon. Its geographical {)Osition is, latitude, 37^ 43' 38" north, and longitude, 
 123^ 00' 5.')" west. 
 
 THE NOBTH FABALLONIS> 
 
 Lie nearly in line with each other, and the Middle and South Farallones, and consist 
 of a group of four islets, paving a pyramidal appearance as their name denotes, and 
 comprised within a space of little more than half a mile square. The northern three 
 are quite high and bold, the highest peak of the luiddle one attaining an elevation of 
 166 feet, whilst the southern one of the group, is a mere rock of about 35 yards in 
 diameter, and hardly 20 feet above water. Viewed from the SW. or NK, breakers 
 extend across from the largest islet, to the next one southeast, and during a heavy 
 ground swell, we have watched it breaking on an isolated sunken rock, lying between 
 the northern and largest islet. From certain directions, a small pyramidal detached 
 peak shows close to the north side of the northern islet. 
 
 The geographical positions and extent of the islets, are as follows : 
 
 Latitude. 
 
 Northern Islet 87 46 17 North. 
 
 Middle Islet, 37 45 59 North. 
 
 Southern Islet, 37 45 49 North. 
 
 Rock off last, 37 45 51 North. 
 
 The northern islet, therefore bears N. 64° W. distant 6* miles from the light-house 
 
 on the South Farallon. (This correction should be noted in the nhith line of the 
 
 sixty-6>»rt4i page. ) From the light-hoa^e site of Punta de los Reyes, it bears south* 
 
 Longitude. 
 
 Extent, 
 
 o / // 
 
 Yards. 
 
 123 05 25 West. 
 
 160 
 
 123 05 04 West. 
 
 185 
 
 123 04 54 West. 
 
 125 
 
 123 04 41 West. 
 
 35 
 
 r^^-tiT^ 
 
 distant 14 miles. 
 
 
 
p 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 61 
 
 At near dMUnces, nnder favorable circumstances, the light will not wholly disappear between 
 the intervals of greatest brightness. 
 The geographical position nf ilu> licht-house, as given by the Coast Survey, is — 
 
 o ' " 
 
 Latitude 37 41 55.2 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 59 05 west. 
 
 A. ni. t. 
 
 Or, in time 8 11 56.3. 
 
 Magnetic variation 15" 40' east, in 1857, with a yearly increase of 1'.4. 
 
 The bearings and distances of prominent objects from it are — 
 
 North Farallom^ N W-.-by^VT. T to 1ft miles. y'/" 
 
 Western head of Los Reyes N. by W. | "W, 17J miles. 
 
 Point Boneta light-house NE. by E. 23J miles. 
 
 Bell-boat off San Francisco bar NE. by E. ^ E. 16 J miles. 
 
 Point San Pedro E. 23J miles. ^ 
 
 From abreast of Fort Point the light is just visible above the horizon. 
 
 Vessels from the westward running for the Golden Gate should keep to the southward of the 
 South Farallone, especially in thick weather. To the westward of it a depth of 50 fathoms is 
 obtained at a distance of 3 miles, shoaling to 20 fathoms in 2 miles; whereas, inside of it, 
 the bottom is very regular at 30 fathoms for ten miles, and then decreases regularly to the bell- 
 boat. On the SE. side of the island there is said to be good holding ground in 15 fathoms. 
 
 The San Francisco pilot boats cruise off the island. 
 
 Tides. — The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit 
 and the time of high water is Xh. XXXVIIm., and the difference between the greatest and 
 least intervals Ih. 16m. The mean rise and fall of tides is 3.6 feet; of spring tides 4.4 feet, 
 and of neap tides 2.8 feet. The mean duration of the flood is Gh. 18m., and of the ebb 6^. 0dm. 
 
 An extended and detailed examination around the island has not yet been made. 
 
 The Middle Farallone lies N.NW. from the South Farallone, at an estimated distance of two 
 miles^ It is a single rock of small extent, and rises 20 or 30 feet above water. 
 
 The North Farallones lie NW. by W. from the south, and distant, by estimation, from 7 to 
 10 miles. They form a group of five small rocky islets, rising to a height of about 150 feet, 
 and having a pyramidal appearance, as their name denotes. They boar about S. by W. from 
 Los Reyes, at an estimated distance of 11 J miles. Their position has not yet been accurately 
 determined, nor has any detailed hydrographic survey been made around them. 
 
 To the southward and eastward from the North Farallone, at a distance of two miles, we are 
 informed that a sunken rock exists, having 4 fathoms water upon it, with kelp around it, except 
 when torn away by storms. In good weather the fishermen fish around it, but in bad weather 
 the sea breaks upon it. Wo called attention to this several years ago, and since then have 
 met with a Russian volume of charts, published at New Archangel, in 1848, wherein a rock in 
 this vicinity is marked "overflowed." For two miles W.NW. off these islets rocky bottom is 
 found in 25 fathoms; tiience to Los Reyes the depth increases to 50 fathoms about midway. 
 
 The Farallones de los Frayles were discovered by Ferrelo in February, 1543, and he is stated 
 to have seen six islands in this vicinity, one large and five very small, which Cabrillo had 
 passed on the previous voyage. The five small islands were doubtless the northern group, 
 the large one the South Farallone, and the middle might very readily be missed on account of 
 
62 REPORT OF THE SDPERmTENDENT OP 
 
 its smallness. He states that for five days it was impossible to effect a landing upon them on 
 account of the southwest winds and heavy sea. 
 
 Sir Francis Drake is the first that specially mentions them, in 1579, as lying off the harbor 
 or bay where he refitted his ships. 
 
 In some recent maps they are omitted. 
 
 Point Tomales and Tomales lay. — Northward of Punta de los Reyes we find a long reach of 
 broad white sand beach, backed by sand dunes, and extending in a N. ^ E. direction about 9 
 miles, gradually curving to the northwest, and changing to a high precipitous coast running to 
 Point Tomales, which bears N. by W. 14 miles from Los Eeyes. Close to the point are several 
 high rocky islets. Vessels in thick weather should not approach this stretch of coast in less 
 than 30 fathoms. The steep hills which commence from the sand dunes form a narrow ridge 
 that attains an elevation of nearly 700 feet. This is about 1^ mile in width, and is bounded 
 on the east by the bay of Tomales, which extends towards the southeast about 12 miles, and 
 beyond the head of -the Estero de Limantour, coming in from Sir Francis Drake's bay. The 
 Bay of Tomales is narrow and very shoal, being nearly bare at low water, but having a small 
 tortuous channel for a considerable distance up. The entrance is narrow and obstructed by a 
 bar, having, it is reported, 18 feet water upon it at high tide. With the least swell from 
 seaward it breaks ail over the entrance. 
 
 The ship Oxford, after getting ashore on the outside of the point, floated off, drifted into 
 this bay over the bar, grounded on the flats, and at the next high water was floated off again. 
 Small vessels carry the agricultural products of the immediate vicinity to San Francisco, and a 
 considerable trafiic is carried on in clams, crabs, and fish. 
 
 In February, 1857, the waters of the bay changed to a deep purple color, and the fish died 
 in such great numbers that the beaches and water were covered with them. 
 
 This bay was known as Port Juan Francisco by the Spaniards when Vancouver visited the 
 coast in 1792. The present name v<?As given to it on account of its peculiar shape. j^^ . 
 
 Belcher ei-roneously designates it as a part of Bodega bay. The topography of its entrance 
 was executed by the Coast Survey in 1853. 
 
 Bodega Head lies NW. by N. | N. 18 miles from Los Reyes, and forms the northern point of 
 Bodega bay, considering Tomales point the southern. The Head is two or three hundred feet 
 high with a slightly rounding summit, and continues of nearly the same height for a mile or 
 two northward, where it changes to a broad sand beach with low country near, but high hills 
 in the back ground. The face of the land about here begins to change from its uniform want 
 of trees to hills partially covered. It has been frequently held out as a warning not to mistake 
 Bodega Head for Punta de los Reyes, but there exists no reasonable ground for raising a question 
 on this subject, although navigators, who have lost or jeopardized vessels, ofi"er as an excuse 
 the great similarity of the coast and headlands to those near the Golden Gate. We have never 
 been able to detect it. 
 
 BODEGA BAT. 
 
 From Tomales bay to Bodega Head the course is NW. by W. \ W., and distance 5 miles; 
 while the average depth of the bay to the eastward of this line is 1^ mile. Eastward of 
 Point Tomales the bay or roadstead acquires its full width at once by the shore running well 
 east from the opposite side of the entrance to Tomales bay. At Bodega Head the shore runs 
 northward to the entrance of the shallow lagoon for nearly a mile, then curves to the eastward 
 
TOE tWlTED STATES COAST SURVEY. 63 
 
 ivlong a lo\VLiiarrow saod epit for over a mile; thence Houtbeastward in a lino parallel to the two 
 headlands. The tihoro about the middle of the bay becomes high, abrupt, and guarded by 
 numerous high rocks. Inside of the low sand spit is an extensive lagoon, having small intricate 
 channels, but almost destitute of water at low tides. The produce of the country is placed in 
 lighters at the "port," or embarcadero, about one mile within the lagoon, and floated with 
 the currents to the anchorage, which is about half a mile off the entrance in 5 or 6 fathoms, 
 (hard bottom, of coarse sand and small patches of clay,) somewhat protected by Bodega Head 
 and a rocky islet and reef extending about three-quarters of a mile off its southwest face from 
 the full force of the northwest swell, which generally rolls in disagreeably'. The reef off the 
 Head is densely covered with kelp. During the winter season it is necessary to anchor well 
 out to be ready to slip and run, as the sea room is very contracted and the swell heavy. 
 Vessels in beating out must keep clear of the reef, the outline of which is well marked by the 
 kelp. Some vessels have ridden out very heavy southeastors, but several have been lost. 
 
 The country in the vicinity of the bay is very productive, both in the valleys and upon the 
 hills. A fine tract of agricultural country stretches behind the coast hills, extending from 
 Russian river to l*etaluma creek, by which channel the produce of this region finds its way to 
 San Francisco. 
 
 The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Survey was upon the western end of the 
 sand siilt- it< fOAsrraphical position is: 
 
 Latitude 38 18 W.», north. 
 
 Longitude 123 02 29, west. 
 
 h. m, I, 
 
 Or, in time 8 12 09.9 
 
 Tides. — The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit 
 and the time of high water is XIA. XYlIm. ; and the difference between the greatest and least 
 intervals is lA. 54m. The mean rise and fall of tides is 3.6 feet; of spring tides 4.7 feet; and of 
 neap tides 2.7 feet. The mean dir-ection of the flood is Gk. 19m. and of the ebb 5A. 59m. 
 
 Bodega bay was discovered by Heceta and Bodega in 1775, and placed in latitude 38° 18' 
 north. It was partially examined by Mr. Puget, under Vancouver's direction, in 1792. 
 
 In 1812, by permission of the Spanish governor of California, it was occupied by the Russian 
 American Company, who afterwards refused to give it vtff, and retained possession until 1841. 
 They erected two large wooden houses under the bluff, at the entrance to the lagoon; but these 
 buildings were in ruins at the time of our visit in 1853. A recent Russian work (1848) says: 
 "The bay of Bodega (Tuliatoelivo) was fully described in 1819 by Captain Hagemeister. It is 
 similar to the port of Trinidad, in being convenient only during the summer, when the northwest 
 winds blow along the coast; at any other season it is dangerous. Both its indentations within 
 the NW. and SE. headlands are shallow and contracted, and, therefore, it is necessary to anchor 
 in the open roadstead. ' ' 
 
 In 1839, under Belcher's orders, Kellett commenced the survey of Bodega, in the schooner 
 Starling, and was soon after joined by the Sulphur. 
 
 The line of equal magnetic variation of 16° east crosses the coast line of Bodega bay in latitude 
 38° 15'; and in latitude 38° 06' crosses the 124th degree of longitude. This is for January, 
 1859. The line moves southward about a mile and a half annually. 
 
 Fort Boas. — The rocky, contracted, and unsafe anchorage off this place is NW. | N. from Los 
 Reyes; distance 32 miles, and 15 miles from Bodega Head. The large white buildings of the 
 
64 EEPOET OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 Russians on the rising ground, and about 100 feet above the sea, are the only marks for making 
 it, and the shore is so steep and guarded by rocks and reefs as to render approach dangerous* 
 
 No trade is now carried on here. 
 
 The approximate geographical position is : 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude - 38 30 north. 
 
 Longitude 123 13 west. 
 
 On some charts it is erroneously placed in Bodega bay, with a large river running from the 
 northward into the bay. Belcher states it to be 30 miles north of Bodega. 
 
 The shore between Bodega and Fort Ross curves slightly eastward, and for several miles 
 north of Bodega Head is bounded by a broad sand beach. Halfway towards Ross the ' ' Russian 
 river" empties into the sea, coming through a broad valley, northward of which and some 
 distance inland commence the high hills, covered with timber, which gradually approach th e 
 coast until only a narrow space of open rolling land is found at Fort Ross; and the Russian 
 vessels' formerly used this as the distinctive mark of its position. The coast and coast hills to 
 the northward are mostly covered with dense forests of immense trees and thick undergrowth. 
 
 From Fort Ross to Punta de Arena the coast is almost straight, running NW. by W. | W. 
 for 37 miles. It is compact and abrupt the whole distance; covered with trees to the water's 
 edge, and backed by an unbroken ridge of hills about 2,000 feet high, and wooded to their 
 summits. 
 
 Haven's Anchorage. — About 24 miles northwestward along the coast from Fort Ross is a con- 
 tracted anchorage under high precipitous rocky islets, with a short stretch of beach on the 
 main affording a boat landing. There is a protection, when anchored close in, against heavy 
 northwest weather; but it would be very difficult to recognize the locality unless the position 
 of a vessel approaching _it were accurately determined. 
 
 On the top of the bluff, at the north side of a small gulley, a secondary astronomical station 
 of the Coast Survey was established in 1853. Its geographical position is: 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 38 47 58.0 north. 
 
 Longitude • • 123 34 00.8 west. 
 
 Or, in time * 8 14 16.0 
 
 Northward of this anchorage high, bold rocks line the coast for four or five miles. 
 Punta de Arena. — This is the first prominent headland north of Los Reyes, from which it 
 bears NW. ^ W., distant 67 miles. Approached either from the northward or southward, it 
 presents a long level plateau, stretching out about two miles west of the high lands, and termi- 
 nating in a perpendicular blufi" that averages about 200 feet in height, except the extreme 
 northwest part, which is comparatively low, partially covered with sand, and destitute of trees 
 for some distance inland. When seen from the southward, mth the sun shining upon the face 
 of the bluff, it shows remarkably white for the length of two miles. In fact, no point upon the 
 coast presents such a bright appearance, or such uniform vertical bluffs, composed of hard 
 rocks, twisted and distorted into many plications. Bold water is found close off the point 
 outside the kelp, which, stretching strongly to the southward, shows the set and comparative 
 strength of the current. In October, 1857, we judged it to be running at the rate of not less 
 than two miles an hour. In July, 1853, the computed distances between the astronomical 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 8DBVKY. 65 
 
 stations compared with tho indications of MnsBoy's patent log, showed a current of from one or 
 two mili'8, running along tho coast to tho southward. 
 
 About two miles southward of the point a small contracted valley opens upon tho shoro and 
 oflF it is an anchorage for small vessels, moderately well protected from tho northwest swell, 
 but open to the southwest. Several schooners have gone ashore here. A largo bed of kelp 
 lies off the anchorage. 
 
 About a mile and a half N. by W. from the point are several rocks showing just ab&ve 
 water, and upon which the least swell breaks. These were noticed by Vancouver in October, 
 1793. When one milo broad off Arena, a high, sharp pinnacle rock shows well out from the shoro 
 on the horizon to the southward, with some rocky islets inside, and breakers well out boyond 
 the pinnacle rock, yet northward of it; but their distances from shore are not probably as much 
 as a milow 
 
 The approximate geographical position of Punta de»Arona is — 
 
 O I 
 
 Latitude 38 57 north. 
 
 Longitude 123 45 west. 
 
 A recommendation has been made for a light-house upon this point, which is much needed by 
 the mail and coasting steamers and sailing vessels. 
 
 The appearance of this and adjacent parts of the coast induced Sir Francis Drake to call the 
 land New Albion, whilst the same appearance and sandy line to the northward of it doubtless 
 led the Spaniards to designate it La Punta de Arena; It suggests an inquiry concerning tho 
 numerous Cape Blancos that are found in thoir voyages and maps. 
 
 Albion river. — From Point Arena the first point to the northwestward is 24 miles distant, and 
 bearing N W. by N. § N. After passing Arena the coaat falls to tho eastward of north, and for 
 six miles presents a low shore-line with sand beach, changing suddenly to a straight, high, bluff 
 shoro with a few trees, and backed within half a mile by hills of 2,000 feet, covered to their 
 summits with wood. Sixteen and a half miles from Arena is tho mouth of tho Albion river, a 
 very small stream, with the barest apology for a harbor at its mouth. A saw-mill upon this 
 stream induces coasters to obtain freights here, but a great many of those trading have Jt)oen lost. 
 The Coast Surveying steamer Active passed in, but broke her anchor on the rocky bottom. 
 
 Mendocino bay. — Twenty and a half miles from Arena, and four above Albion river, is a 
 contracted indentation called Mendocino bay, available for a few vessels in summer, but 
 dangerous in winter. The northern and southern points are about three-quarters of a mile 
 apart, and the eastern shore retreats nearly half a mile. At the southern head are several 
 small rocks and ono large islet surrounded^ by rocks, off which are heavy breakers. Midway 
 between tho heads is a small reef upon which tho sea breaks heavily, with very little swell. 
 Deep water is found close around this reef. Off the northern head is very bold water close to 
 it. Into the northeast part of the bay enters the river Noyon or Rio Grande, between two and 
 three hundred yards wide, with a good channel on the southern side, a broad sand flat on the 
 northern, and a bar at the mouth with but a few feet of water, and upon which it always 
 breaks. The eastern shoro is bold and rocky. In the southeastern part is a sand beach, with 
 a reef extending from its centre. 
 
 The bay forms such a slight indentation in the coast-line that it is difficult to find^ without 
 acquaintance with its minutest peculiarities, as there are no prominent marks by which to 
 determine it. The north head is a table bluff about 60 feet high, and destitute of trees to the 
 9 
 
66 KEPOET OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OP 
 
 northward and some distance inshore. The south bluff is likewise destitute of trees, but more 
 irregular in outline than the other. Vessels bound for it in summer work a little to windward, 
 then run boldly in towards the north point upon which the houses become recognized; keep 
 close as possible along the shore, gradually decreasing the distance to 100 yards just off the 
 south end of the point in 6 fathoms; run on about 150 yards past the point; head up hand- 
 somely and anchor in 5 or 6 fathoms hard bottom. It is a bad berth in summer ; and in winter 
 a vessel must anchor far enough out to be able to slip her cable and go to sea upon the first 
 appearance of a southeaster. Several vessels have been driven ashore here. 
 
 An extensive saw-mill is located on the north side of the river some distance up; formerly 
 (1853) it was on the north head, and a stationary engine was placed near the mouth of the 
 river to draw loaded cars up the inclined plane, whence they were drawn to the mill. The 
 lumber was slid down shutes into large scows. 
 
 The place is now sometimes called Meiggsville ; formerly it was Mendocino City. 
 
 The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Survey is on the north head, and its 
 geographical position — 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 39 18 06.1 north. 
 
 Longitude 123 47 25.6 west. 
 
 h. m. s. 
 
 Or, in time 8 15 09.7. 
 
 Magnetic variation, 16° 35' E., July, 1857; increasing about 1'.4 yearly. 
 
 From the point just north of Mendocino bay, (the first one made from Arena,) the shore runs 
 nearly straight for 28 miles N. by W. ^ W., being low and bounded by rocks for 12 miles, 
 when the back hills reach the water and present an almost vertical front 2,000 feet in height. 
 
 From the deepest part of the#bighf, the general trend of the coast to Cape Mendocino is 
 NW. I W., and distance 45 miles, and for the whole of this distance it is particularly bold and 
 forbidding, the range of hills running parallel to the shore and rising directly from it. It has 
 been found impossible to travel along this stretch of seaboard, and the trail turns well into the 
 interior valleys. 
 
 For January, 1859, the line of equal magnetic variation of 17° east crosses the coast-line 
 in latitude 39° 58'; and in latitude 39° 48' crosses the 125° of longitude. This line moves 
 southward about a mile and a half annually. 
 
 SHELTER COVE. 
 
 From the compact shore above described, a plateau, destitute of wood, and being from 60 
 to 300 feet in height, makes square out just above latitude 40° N. for a distance of half a mile, 
 affording an anchorage from northwest winds, and may, perhaps, be regarded as a harbor of 
 refuge for small coasters which have experienced heavy weather off Cape Mendocino, and are 
 short of wood and water, both of which may be obtained here from one or Wo gulches open- 
 ing upon the sea. ' 
 
 From Point Arena it bears NW. by N. ^ N. , distant 65 miles. The whole sea-face of the 
 bluff is bounded by thousands of rocks above and below water, and vessels coming from the 
 north for shelter must give it a wide berth, rounding it within one-third of a mile, and 
 anchoring in 5 fathoms, hard bottom, about one-third of a mile from shore. In this position 
 fresh water comes down a ravine bearing about north, and an Indian village existed in 1853 at 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 8USVKY. G7 
 
 tho bottom of tho wooded ravino a littlo further to the eastward. There is lUwayH a swell here, 
 and boat landing may not bo very easy. 
 
 The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Survey was on the southeast part of the bluff, 
 about 60 feet above the sea; its geographical position is: 
 
 Liititudo 40 01 13.7 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 03 02.9 west. 
 
 A. m. 1. 
 
 Or, in time 8 16 12.2. ^ 
 
 Magnetic variation, 17° 02' oast, in July, 1857; increasing about 1'.4 yearly. 
 Upon old Spanish charts, a point in this vicinity is designated Point Delgado, doubtless 
 referring to it. 
 
 A hydrographic sketch of Shelter Cove accompanied the Coast Survey Report for 1854. 
 
 PUNTA OORDA. ^ 
 
 Is 17 miles NW. by W. J W. from Shelter Cove, and, as its name implies, is a largo, bold 
 rounding point. Half a mile off it lies a largo rocky islet with rocks close in shore north of tho 
 point. From Punta de Arena it bears NW. J N., distant 81 miles, and tlie line passing tangent 
 to Punta Gorda runs one mile outside of Capo Mendocino. 
 
 CAPE MENDOCINO 
 
 Is 93 miles NW. | N. from Punta de Arena. Here the range of coast hills from tho south- 
 ward appears to meet a range coming from tho eastward, forming a mountainous headland of 
 over 3, 000 feet high, which is tho western limit of tho northwest trend of this section of tne 
 coast. The approximate geographical position of tho cape is: 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 40 25 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 22 west. 
 
 About 3 miles broad off. lies a reef, just under water, known as Blunt' s rocks or reef, upon 
 which tho sea generally breaks. This reef was noticed by Vancouver as being about one 
 league offshore. — (Vol. 1, page 198.) Half way between it and the cape, and a little to tho 
 southward, is a sunken rock which has been discovered within the last two or three years, but 
 not yet accurately located. It is called Fauntleroy's rock. Steamers have passed dangerously 
 near it, and in 1857 it was distinctly seen almost under the wheel of the steamship Commodore. 
 Vessels can, perhaps, pass over it in smooth weather, but with a heavy sea the water must 
 break. 
 
 To tho southward, and immediately off tho pitch of the cape, lie numerous rocks and rocky 
 islets, the latter being largo and high, with a peculiar pyramidal or sugar loaf appearance. 
 None of them seem to be more than half a mile from the shore, which is almost perpendicular 
 and destitute of a beach. 
 
 The face of tho capo is very steep, rocky, and worn. Above this tho general appearance is 
 rolling, and the surface covered with timber. The pyramidid islets off it are very readily 
 distinguished in approaching from the north or south. 
 
 From Cape Mendocino the following are the bearings and distances to headlands to the 
 northward : 
 
 Trinidad Head, north, 39 miles. 
 
68 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 Redding' 8 rock, N. | W., 56 miles. 
 
 Crescent City light-house, N. by W., 79^ miles • 
 
 Cape Blanco or Orford, N. by W. | W., 145 miles. 
 
 The extent of shore-line from Point Boneta to this cape is about 224 miles. 
 
 It is generally stated that Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo named Cape Mendocino in honor of Don 
 Antonio de Mendoza, the viceroy of Mexico; but the highest latitude he reached was Punta de 
 los Reyes, to which ho in reality applied that name. It is quite probable that under the lee 
 of the rocks off this capo Ferrolo, the pilot and successor of Cabrillo, anchored on the last of 
 February, 1543, and named it Cabo de Portunas, (Cape of Perils,) although he places his 
 position in latitude 43°. The next day he may have been off Trinidad Head/ and experiencing 
 heavy northerly weather, his observations might have placed him in latitude 44°, but with his 
 vessels, adverse currents, and a dead beat to windward, he could not have made a degree of 
 latitude in a day. Here he turned back, passed the Golden Gate on March 3, and reached 
 the island of Santa Cruz on the 5th. It is utterly impossible that with his small crazy vessels 
 he could make 800 miles (the distance from latitude 44° to Santa Cruz) in four days. 
 
 FALSE MENDOCINO, OB CAPE FORTUNAS 
 
 Lies northward of Capo Mendocino, distant 5 or 6 miles, and is another bold spur of moun- 
 tainous headland, similar and almost as high as that cape. Between the two the shore recedes 
 slightly, is depressed, and forms a beach receiving a small stream called Bear, or McDonald's 
 creek, coming down through a narrow valley or gulch. Off this cape lie severiil rocky islets 
 presenting the same peculiarities as those off Mendocino. There is no beach at the base of the 
 almost perpendicular sea-face. 
 
 The vicinity of these headlands certainly deserves a detailed hydrographic and topographical 
 survey. It is reported that soundings have been obtained well to the westward of the cape; 
 should such prove correct, the fact will be of importance to vessels, especially steamers, bound 
 north or south, when near the coast and enveloped in fog, as it would enable them to judge of 
 their position and change their course. 
 
 We have ventured to call this headland Cape Fortunas, to avoid the repetition of Mendocino, 
 and to commemorate Ferrelo' s discoveries. 
 
 After passing it the shore changes to a straight, low, sandy beach, with valleys running 
 some distance inland. 
 
 Eel River is a small stream with a bar at its mouth, and distant 14 miles from Cape Men- 
 docino. It is very contracted and crooked, receiving the waters of a great many sloughs near 
 its mouth, and draining a most fertile valley, which is rapidly filling up with settlers. 
 
 The first and only vessel that entered it was a schooner in the spring of 1850, when searching 
 for Humboldt Bay. She thumped over the bar, which is said to have 9 feet of water upon it 
 at high tide. The Indian name for the river is Wee-ot. 
 
 HUMBOLDT BAY. 
 
 The entrance to this bay lies 21 miles from the sugar loaf islet off Cape Mendocino, and the 
 bar N. by E. 22^ miles from Blunt' s rocks. The bay is situated immediately behind the low 
 Band beach and dunes, and extends 9 miles north and 4 miles south of the entrance; being 
 contracted to less than half a mile in width abreast of the north end of the «outh spit. It 
 then expands to nearly three miles, and runs a mile and a half to the eastward of Table Bluff. 
 
THE DNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 69 
 
 The 8inp:Io channel runninp into thia portion divides into two crooked ones, which contain from 
 one to three fathoms of water, all the roat show a bare mud flat at low tidea. Abreast of the 
 entrance it is nearly a mile in width; with extensive sands bare at low tides, lying midway 
 between the opposite shores, and running nearly parallel with them. To the northward its 
 average width is half a mile fo»a distance of 3.J miles. It then expands into a large shallow 
 sheet of water, having two or throe crooked channels through it, but the greater part being 
 bare at low tides, showing oxtonsivo mad flats, bordered by a grassy flat nearly a mile in width. 
 In the channel way close to the north spit, not leaa than 3 fiMSoms may bo carried, increasing 
 for throe miles to CJ fathoms. One mile north of the entrance, and on the eastern side, enters 
 a email stream called Elk river. Two miles north of the entrance, and on the east side, is 
 situated the town of Bucksport, off which a depth of 3J fathoms is found within 160 yards of 
 the shore. Vessels are got alongside the saw-mill wharf here at high tide to load, at low tidea 
 they rest upon the muddy bottom. The military station of Fort Humboldt is on a reservation 
 on the bluff about 100 feet high, and immediately behind the town. On the same side, and 4 
 miles north of the entrance, is the town of Eureka, off which is a portion of the channel, having 
 nearly 3 fathoms in it, but no channel reaching it having more than IJ fathom. The town 
 was laid out before this latter fact was discovered. Veaaels lie at the wharves, resting on the 
 mud at low tide. Abreast of Eureka lie several low marshy islands cut up by sloughs and 
 ponds. The largest, called Indian island, is about a mile long (NE.) by half a mile in width. 
 It is marked by two hillocks, surmounted by clumps of trees, near which were (1854) severiU 
 wretched Indian huts. The smaller islands lie between this and the eaatern shore and parallel 
 with it. Uniontcum is situated on the northeast shore of the bay, and can only bo reached by 
 boats at high tide. It is the starting point for the Trinity and Klamath mines. From it an 
 extensive wharf stretches far out over the mud flat, which vessels can reach at high tides. 
 
 The southern spit from the entrance to Table Bluff does not average one quarter of a mile 
 in width; is formed of low sand dunes and grassy hillocks, and bordered on the bay side by 
 marsh. At the lower extremity rises Table Bluff", which the name well describes, to a height 
 of about 200 feet; its western point nearly reaching the sea beach, and forming a good land 
 mark for making the bay. Five miles east of it the hills commence rising. Abreast of the 
 north end of the south spit rises Bed Bluff, presenting to the entrance a perpendicular face, 
 composed of sand and gravel colored by the decomposition of iron ore near its surface, which 
 is 96 feet above high water, and destitute of tree or brush. The bay front of the bluff is about 
 one-third of a mile long, gradually decreasing to the low, flat land to the north, and also falling 
 away to the south and east. On this bluff the pilots have a flag-stafif to range with known 
 points of trees beyond, by which they cross the bar and keep the run of its changes. At the 
 base of the highest part of this bluff we discovered, in 1854, a tooth and part of the tirek of tho 
 dephaa primtgenius. The low land on the eastern shore above Red Bluff averages half a mile 
 in width, and runs aa far as Eureka, gradually changing to marsh, and bounded by plateaux 
 and hills covered with wood. The north spit averages half a mile in width, and its southern 
 extremity is composed of sand dunes and grassy hillocks disposed in a marked manner parallel 
 with the direction of the northwest winds. Two miles from the entrance trees cover the 
 hillocks and run northward one mile, when a space of a mile occurs without them. After that 
 they continue along tho shore. 
 
 71>e entrance. — The bar of Humboldt bay is situated about a mile and a quarter from tho 
 entrance, or two miles from tin- S\V. and highest part of Red Bluff. It undergoes irregular 
 
70 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 changes, depending much upon the prevalence, direction, and strength of the wind. Early in 
 
 1851 it bore NW., distant two miles from Red Bluff and about half a mile from the beach of 
 
 the north spit. Three and a half fathoms were found upon it, with a width of 250 yards 
 
 between the three-fathom curves, retaining nearly the same width and running on a southeast 
 
 course towards the bluff, but approaching closer to the north than to the south spit. When 
 
 between the two, the depth of water was increased to 11 fathoms, suddenly shoaling to four 
 
 fathoms inside. Vessels kept the north spit within 150 to 250 yards on the port hand for 2 or 
 
 3 miles after entering. In the fall of 1852 the bar was reported to have moved to the northward 
 
 about its entire width, and the ranges for going in, as laid down by the survey of the previous 
 
 year, were entirely useless. In the spring of 1854 it was more than its previous width to the 
 
 southward of its position in 1851, and the depth of water had decreased, until in June of that 
 
 year, when we crossed, it was over half a mile in extent, with only 16 feet water at high tide. 
 
 A bare'spot then showed at the lowest tides W,NW. of the end of the south spit. We saw in 
 
 that year a strange brig thump over the north sands, while on the course prescribed by the 
 
 sailing directions of 1851. In 1857 less than 13 feet at high tide could be found upon it, and 
 
 its extent was very much increased. Eventually a deep and narrow channel will be cut through. 
 
 About 1852 a steam-tug was placed upon the bay, and has rendered the most efficient service 
 
 in determining the changes of the bar. When vessels are seen approaching the bar a flag is 
 
 hoisted on Red Bluff, and the tug goes oiit to take them in. If jt is breaking so heavily on the 
 
 bar that she cannot get through it, and it is yet practicable for the vessel to run in, she takes 
 
 up a position and hoists her flag as a signal for the vessel to steer for her. She is invaluable in 
 
 towing out the deeply laden lumber vessels, as the summer winds blow directly in the channel. 
 
 In June, 1851, upon our first entering this bay, we found a brig, deeply laden with spars, 
 
 waiting for an opportunity to get out. She had made several attempts to beat through the then 
 
 narrow channel, but always failed, and had in this manner occupied 31 days. We have laid 
 
 14 days off the entrance, and passed in when the water was breaking on the bar. A preliminary 
 
 chart of the entrance to Humboldt bay was issued from the Coast Survey Office in 1851. 
 
 The Humboldt bay light-Jiome is erected on the north spit, three quarters of a mile north of 
 the entrance, and about midway between the bay and sea shores. It consists of a keeper's 
 dwelling, of one and a half story, with a tower rising 21 feet above the roof from the centre; 
 both being plastered and whitewashed, and surmounted by an iron lantern painted red. The 
 light is a /iced white light of the fourth order of the system of Fresnel, and illuminates the entire 
 horizon. It is elevated 53 feet above high water spring tides, and should be seen in clear 
 weather from a height of — 
 
 10 feet at a distance of 12 miles. 
 
 20 feet at a distance of 13^ miles. 
 
 30 feet at a distance of 14| miles. 
 Its geographical position, as determined by the Coast Survey, is: 
 
 O / II 
 
 Latitude 40 46 03.6 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 12 21 west. 
 
 h. m. s. 
 
 Or, in time 8 16 49.4. 
 
 Magnetic variation, 17° 06' east, in July, 1853, increasing about 1'.4 yearly. 
 
 The light was first exhibited December 20, 1856, and shows from sunset to sunrise. 
 
 A light on Red Bluff, which is nearly 100 feet high, -vtould always serve as a leading range, 
 
h 
 
 THE UNITED STATES COAST SUKVKV. 71 
 
 as tho flap-Btaff and ensign placed there are now thus U8ed by the pilots. The light would bo 
 distinguinhabie readily at sen, when tho present one might bo obscured by tho mist banging 
 OTer the surf on tho beacii. During the day tho white buildings would be a capital mark 
 against tho green hills and trees in tho back ground. This view, now and formerly expressed, 
 has boon repeatedly and earnestly urged upon our attention by many capttiins, merchants, and 
 tho pilots of Humboldt bay. 
 
 Tfdfs. — Tho corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of tho moon's transit 
 and tho time of high water is XII* II" and the difToronco between tho greatest and least intervals 
 is \h. llm. Tho mean rise and fall of tides is 4.4 foot; of spring tides, 5.5 foot: and of neap 
 tides, 3.5 feet. The mean duration of the flood is 6A. 19m. ; and of the ebb, 6A. OOm. 
 
 From experiments made in 1854, we found the ebb current to run 3 miles per hour, with a 
 maximum velocity of between 4 and 6 miles. 
 
 The primary astronomical station of the Coast Survey was on tho southwest part of Red 
 BlniT. Its geographical position is: latitude 40° 44' 40".2 north; longitude 124° 12' west; or, 
 in time, SA* 16nj. 48«. Magnetic variation, 17° 04' east, in April, 1854. 
 
 A secondary astronomical station was occupied in the reconnaissance of 1853 on the beach 
 at Bucksport Its geographical position is: latitude 40° 46' 37".l north; longitude 124° 10' 44" 
 west; or, in time, Sh. 16m. 42.9s. Magnetic variation, 17° 06', in July, 1853. 
 
 We have already mentioned the situations of three of the towns on Humboldt bay. Hum- 
 boldt, the fourth towm, is located on the south side of Bed Bluff. It had eight or ten houses in 
 1854, and was going backward. Bucksport has a goodly number of houses and one saw-mill, 
 formed by hauling the steamer Commodore Preble on the beach, and using her engines for 
 motive power. Eureka has eight saw-mills and a grist-mill, and presents a thriving appear- 
 ance; one of the saw-mills is formed by the steamboat Santa Clara. Uniontown has one saw- 
 mill. In 1854 we obtained a statement of the commerce of the bay for a period of eleven 
 months, ending May 31 of that year; from which it appeared that 143 vessels, ranging from 
 71 to 540 tons, with an aggregate of 22,060 tons, had brought to tho bay 3,089 tons of mer- 
 chandise and 562 passengers, and taken away 18,932,000 feet of lumber. Since that time 
 other mills have been added, with increased power, and at a low estimate we may safely say 
 that all can turn out an avei%ge of 120,000 feet per day! Many of tho vessels trading to this 
 bay were ill adapted to contend against the summer winds. Tho average time of the above 
 vessels from San Francisco was a trifle under 12 days. Some boat up in 6 days; others 
 required over 20; all, however, are in very light ballast trim. With vessels adapted to the 
 trade, the average time up should not exceed 8 days, and the passage to leeward would 
 average about 4. The average tonnage had regularly increased, and there had been a decrease 
 in the average length of the passage to the windward. 
 
 It has been erroneously asserted that this bay was discovered from sea in April, 1850, and 
 by land in 1849; but the following account from a recent Russian work, (1848,) with an accom- 
 panying chart, settles that question : 
 
 "About 8j miles from tho port of Trinidad is situated the entrance to tho Bay of Indians, 
 called entrance of Bezanof. By the colonial documents of the Russian-American Company, it 
 appears that it was discovered by citizens of the United States.' In 1806 there was in it, (on 
 an American vessel,) under command of Vintep, [Viu top] a beaver party of Aleutians, under 
 the direction of Slabotchikoff, which was met by tho Indians inimically. This bay is not fully 
 described, but it is known that it is very large; somewhat resembles the bay of San Francisco, 
 
7^ REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 only the entrance to it for vessels of large class is not convenient, and with strong southwest 
 winds it is even impossible with any vessel. The depth at the entrance is two sajhen, (14 
 feet,) and then it breaks on the bar." 
 
 The present name was given to the bay in 1850. 
 
 Mad river is said to empty into the sea about a mile north of Humboldt bay. It averages 
 about 100 yards in width, with a bar at its entrance that prevents egress; but the vast amount 
 of timber in the valley must eventually find a passage through a canal to the northwest point 
 of Humboldt bay. A deep slough from the latter is said to approach quite close to Mad river, 
 thus favoring the execution of such a project. 
 
 TRINIDAD HEAD AND BAY. 
 
 Trinidad Head lies N. \ W. 17^ miles from the bar of Humboldt bay, and north 39 miles 
 from Cape Mendocino. The low sand beach off Humboldt continues past Mad river to within 
 a couple of miles of Trinidad bay, when it changes to a bluff, guarded by innumerable rocks. 
 For the entire distance of the low beach a depth of from 10 to 15 fathoms may be found one 
 mile from the shore. 
 
 The bay or r6adstead of Trinidad is very contracted; but having deep water, and all 
 dangers visible, forms a moderately good summer anchorage. The " Head " forming the 
 western shore of the roadstead, and a prominent mark when seen from close in, is about 375 
 feet high, covered with a low, thick undergrowth of scrub bushes; has very ste*ep sides, and 
 8 fathoms close to its southern base. Off the western face, for nearly half a mile out, lie several 
 high rocky islets, with one half a mile south of it, but having 9 fathoms close to it. From the 
 south face eastward to the 3-fathom curve the distance is one mile, and the depth of the bight 
 to the northward of this line is about half a mile, with half a dozen rocks lying outside the 
 3-fathom line, but well above water. In the northern part of the bay there is a sand beach 
 extending about half a mile ; thence eastward the shore is very rocky, the bluff being about 
 300 feet high, and covered with a heavy growth of timber. The town, formerly a place of 
 some promise, fronts on the northwest part of the roadstead, and the boat landing is on the 
 north side of a round knoll making out about 100 yards from ^e low neck running to the 
 ' ' Head.' ' A very considerable quantity of sea weed lies off here. 
 
 A hydrographic sketch of the bay and view of Trinidad Head accompanied the Coast Survey 
 Keport for 1851. 
 
 In working into the anchorage beat in boldly past the outermost rock until the rock just off 
 the eastern side of the Head is in range with the knoll (having a few trees upon it) between the 
 town and the Head, with the south face of the Head bearing W. by N., and anchor in seven 
 fathoms, hard bottom, within one-third of a mile of the rock and Head, having the neck visible 
 to the westward of the knoll, and a sugar loaf rock beyond the neck showing over it. A swell 
 will generally be found setting in.. In winter it is a dangerous anchorage, and if a vessel is 
 unluckily caught, her chances of riding out a southeaster are very few. Several Spanish vessels 
 were wrecked here when it was visited by them, and a number of vessels have been lost within 
 the last eight years. , 
 
THE UNITKD STATES COAST SlIBVEV. 73 
 
 The Hecondarv astronoinioal station of the CoaBt Survey was on the neck, near the town. 
 Its geographical position i» — * 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 41 03 20.0 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 08 08 west. 
 
 A. m. (. 
 Or, in time 8 16 32.5. 
 
 The town during the winter is nearly deserted, but a brisk trade is carried on in summer. 
 Tlio connection with San Francisco by steamers is yet uncertain. The land in this vicinity is 
 very rich, and well adapted to agriculture. The red-wood trees grow around it, and attain an 
 enormous size. The stump of one whicb we measured was about 20 feet in diameter, and a 
 dozen trees standing in the vicinity averaged over 10 feet. One is affirmed to be standing on 
 the bank of a small stream al the southeast part of the bay that measures over 90 feet in 
 circumference. The bark of these trees has a thickness of from 8 to 14 inches; they grow 
 perfectly straight, retaining their thickness to a great height, begin to branch at 50 or 100 feet, 
 and frequently attain 250 feet in height. The forests of this timber, when free from under- 
 growth present an imposing sight. 
 
 "Port Trinidad " was discovered June 10, 1775, by Heceta and Bodega, and placed in latitude 
 41* 07' N. Near it they place a stream which they call the Rio de los Tortolas, or Pigeon river. 
 
 It was visited in May, 1793, by Vancouver, who says, (vol. II, page 245:) "In an excursion 
 made by Mr. Menzies to the hill composing the projecting headland that forms the northwest 
 side of the bay, he found, agreeably with Se5or Maurelli's description, the [wooden] cross 
 which the Spaniards had erected on their taking possession of the port; and though it was in 
 a certain state of decay it admitted of his copying the followiiig inscription : ' Carolus III, 
 Dei G. Uyspaniarum Bex.' " 
 
 Vancouver placed it in latitude 41° 04' N. — (Vol. I, page 200.) 
 
 In some American maps antecedent to the Coast Survey determinations on the Pacific the 
 indentation of the coaat between Mendocino and Trinidad was called "Bay of Trinidad." 
 
 The shore running NW. by N. from Trinidad Head for 5 miles is remarkably broken and 
 rocky, which induced Vancouver to call its northern extremity Jiocky Point. He placed it in 
 41° 08'. About one mile oflf it lie several rocks that are sometimes known as the "Turtles." 
 
 In January, 1603, Vizcaino's vessels separated during heavy weather, and the smaller sailed, 
 under Antonio Flores, the pilot, to the northward in search of Vizcaino; and when ih latitude 
 41^, with a gale from the SW., he ran before it until he found shelter behind a great rock, 
 where he anchored. "Was this under Rocky Point ? 
 
 From Rocky Point the shore takes a gentle sweep eastward, making its greatest indentation 
 at the north end of the once famous Gold Bluff, in latitude 41"^ 27' N., and longitude 124° 03' 
 W., and then trendingVestward to Crescent City. Gold Bluff has an extent of 10 miles, and 
 is very bold and high. 
 
 Bedding's Bock lies 5 miles broad off Gold Bluff, in latitude 41° 21', and longitude 124° 10'. 
 It is a single large rocky islet about 200 feet high, and reported to have deep water all around 
 it, with no outlying dangers; but its vicinity has not been surveyed. Vancouver places it in 
 latitude 41° 25' on his chart, and 4 miles off shore; but in the narrative states the distance at 
 half a league, and that it is half a mile in circuit. His track lies inside of it. 
 10 
 
ti REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 • KLAMATH BITER. 
 
 The mouth of this river is in latitude 41° 33' N., longitude 124° 05' W. It is perhaps 200 
 yards wide; having a long sand spit on the south side running northwest, and parallel to the 
 high hills that form the north shore. South of the entrance for a mile and a half are outlying 
 rocks, and at the north side of the entrance lie several others. It is reported to have 2^ fathoms 
 upon the bar. Upon passing it in 1853, within less than a mile, the sea was breaking across it, 
 and no appearance of a safe channel was presented. One or two small schooners are said to 
 have entered it; but we have been assured that the mouth was completely closed in the winter 
 of 1851. 
 
 McArthur reports in 1850: "the river has 17 feet on the bar at mean low water. It is not 
 difficult of entrance with a good breeze, but very difficult to get out of, the current running so 
 strong that sailing vessels must come out stern foremost to be steered." 
 
 Three or four miles northward of the Klamath is a small sharp indentation at the mouth of 
 a gulch, off which lie several small and one large rock; but from a distance of a mile and a half 
 we were unable to determine whether any stream opened here. It has, however, received the 
 name of False Klamath, because it has misled small coasters seeking for the Klamath, although 
 there is no sand point on either side, as exists at the latter. The coast continues bold for several 
 miles, when the hills begin to recede and the shores present many pleasant slopes, unincumbered 
 with forests and now under cultivation. The shore is low and regularly sweeps to the west- 
 ward for a couple of miles, forming the roadstead, which will be next described. 
 
 CRESCENT CITY BAY. 
 
 This, the most dangerous of the roadsteads usually resorted to on the coast, has acqtiired 
 much importance on account of the town (Crescent City) being the depot for the supplies of 
 miners working the gold diggings on the Klamath, Trinity, and Salmon rivers. It is filled with 
 sunken rocks and reefs, and has a goodly number showing above water. No vessel should 
 think of gaining an anchorage here without a pilot, or perfect knowledge of the hidden dangers. 
 No sunken rocks are now known to exist outside of the line of visible ones, except one awash, 
 SW. J W. and a little more than half a mile distant from the light-house. A depth of 10 
 fathoms exists all around it, and 7 or 8 fathoms outside of the visible rocks. The usual an- 
 chorage is on a line half-way between the light-house, and the north side of the large islet 
 three-quarters of a mile east of it, in 3^ fathoms, hard bottom. In this position some outlying 
 rocks will be within 300 yards W. NW ; the three-fathom curve within the same distance, and 
 the beach half a mile off. At low water the beach reaches out fully 100 yards. Landing is 
 difficult, and is usually effected at the SW. part of the beach near the rocks. To reach the 
 above anchorage run for the small rock, bearing SE. by E. | E., one and a half mile from the 
 light-house; pass on the east side of it, and then about 300 yards west of the large islet half a 
 mile W. NW. of it; when abreast of this, run for the southwestern part of the town until the 
 light bears about west, and anchor in 3^ fathoms. To enter or leave it at night, as is done by 
 the mail and coasting steamers, requires a perfect local knowledge of the dangers and pecu- 
 liarities of the landmarks. Coasting steamers, in fine weather, usually anchor close in shore to 
 discharge freight, which is received in lighters. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 8UKVEY. 75 
 
 In summer there is always some swell here, but in winter it rolls in fearfully, and vesscU 
 must choose a position to be ready to run to sea at the approach of a southeaster. 
 
 Communication is maintained with San Francisco and other porta by mail and coasting 
 steamers, which generally carry as many passengers and as much freight for this place as they 
 carry to the Columbia rivfr. 
 
 The town lies NW. from the anchorage, immediately on the low shore; old drift logs, in 
 some instances, forming the foundation for wooden houses. In August, 1853, there were about 
 135 houses of all descriptions. Now the number is doubled; the lands adjacent are being cul- 
 tivated; a grist-mill has been built which turns out 75 barrels of flour per day, and a good trail 
 leads to the "diggings." 
 
 The SW. point of the bay is elevated about 25 feet and continues so to the westward. The 
 light-house is erected on the rocky islet about 300 yards from the point, and connected with it 
 at low tides by a broken mass of rocks, over which a single foot-bridge is constructed. 
 
 .A hydrographic sketch of Crescent City harbor appeared in the Coast Survey Report for 
 1854. 
 
 CBESCENT CITT LIGHT-HOUSE. 
 
 The building consists of a keeper's dwelling of stone, the natural color (grey,) and one and 
 a half stories high, with a low tower of brick, plastered and whitewashed, rising from the centre 
 and surmounted by an iron lantern, painted red. It is situated at the southwest part of the 
 roadstead on the seaward extremity of the Island point, which is here about 45 feet above high 
 water. 
 
 The light is a fixed while light varied by fiashes, of the 4th order of Fresnel; illuminates 315° 
 of the horizon, and was first exhibited December 10, 1856. It shows from sunset to sunrise. 
 It is 80 feet above high sea level, and should be seen in a favorable state of the atmosphere 
 from a height of 10 feet at a distance of 14 miles, 20 feet at a distance of 15J miles, 30 feet at 
 a distance of 16^ miles. 
 
 The geographical position of the light as determined by the Coast Survey is: 
 
 o / ;; 
 
 Latitude 41 44 34.2 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 11 22 west. 
 
 A. m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 8 16 45 
 
 Magnetic variation 17° 52' east, July, 1851, with a yearly increase of 1'.4. 
 From Cape Mendocino it bears N. by W. 79^ miles. 
 
 The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Survey was on the point on the land side of 
 the light-house, near a few Indian huts, existing in 1853. 
 Its geographical position is : 
 
 O I H 
 
 Latitude 41 44 44.0 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 11 14 west^ 
 
 A. in. f. 
 
 Or, in time 8 16 44.9 
 
76 EEPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 POINT SAINT GEOBGE. 
 
 This point lies two miles W. by N. from Crescent City light. The point is from 50 to 100 
 feet high, with table land some distance back. It is bounded by hundreds of rocks, some of 
 which rise perpendicularly 200 feet from the water. Three or four of the largest present a 
 remarkably white appearance, which serves to distinguish this point. The extensive reef in 
 its vicinity may have led to confusion amongst the old discoverers, by their confounding it with 
 Cape Orford. 
 
 The point appears to us to be the Cape San Sebastian of Vizcaino, who, after the separation 
 of his vessels, continued his explorations northward, and on January 20, 1603, when in lati- 
 tude 42° N., reached a high white bluff, which he named in honor of the saint of that day. 
 On the day preceding Antonio Flores, his pilot, in the smaller vessel^ supposed himself in lati- 
 tude 43° N., where the land formed a cape or point, which he called Cape Blanco, and from that 
 point the land ran NW. Near the point he discovered a large and rapid river, which he 
 endeavoured to enter, but could not from the force of the current. We are inclined to believe 
 that both names refer to the same cape, and that the river was the Klamath, 14 miles south- 
 ward, or the Chekto, 15 miles northward. 
 
 Upon Spanish charts, and on an English map of Russian discoveries, published in 1761, we 
 find a cape hereabout laid down, under the appellation Cabo Blanco de San Sebastian. 
 
 The present name was given to the cape by Vancouver in 1792. He placed it in latitude 
 41° 46^' N. 
 
 DRAGON EOCKS. 
 
 This name is applied to the rocks and reef extending W.NW. from Point St. George for a 
 distance of 6 miles. The locality has never been surveyed in detail, but a wide" passage exists 
 inside of the reef, and is invariably used by the mail and coasting steamers, when entering or 
 leaving Crescent City bay. There are 10 or 12 outlying rocks, and many sunken ones, with 
 the passage running between them and those close to shore. This passage is about a mile in 
 width, has 10 fathoms in it, and the general course through is nearly NW. and SE., but not 
 straight. Among the multitude of rocks on the land side of the passage are three very large 
 and prominent ones about 200 feet high. It has been already stated that several of the largest 
 rocky islets have a well marked white appearance, occasioned in part by the deposits of sea 
 birds. 
 
 This name was first given by Vancouver in 1792. The general name now used is Crescent 
 City reef. 
 
 For January, 1859, the line of equal magnetic variation of 18° east crosses the coast line north 
 of Point St. George, in 41° 50'; and in latitude 41° 40' crosses the 125° of longitude. This line 
 moves southward about a mile and a half annually. 
 
 « ST. George's bay. 
 
 From Point St. George the coast runs straight for 12 miles N. ^ W. ; thence W.NW. for 9 
 miles, forming a deep indentation, called by Vancouver St. George' s Bay. On the Coast Survey 
 reconnaissance of it in 1850 it is named Pelican bay. For 8 miles from Point St. George the 
 shore is low for some distance back, and fronted by a sand beach to the mouth of a small stream 
 
THE DOTTED STATES COAST 8UHVEY. 77 
 
 called Smith's rtver. The entrance to this river we looked for in vain from the deck of the 
 
 steamer, ulthough scarcely two miles oft' shore, but wore able to form a good estimate as to where 
 
 it should open by the peculiarities of the northern bank, which was a low perpendicular bluff. 
 
 Its approximate geographical position is : 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 41 54 north. • 
 
 Longitude 124 11 west. 
 
 The "Smith's river" of recent maps and doacriptions is a myth. North of this small stream 
 the coast acquires an elevation of about one Or two hundred feet for a short distance inland, 
 and is bounded by high mountains. 
 
 COAST OF OREGON. 
 
 About three miles by the shore to the northward from the deepest part of St. George's 
 bay, the boundary line of California and Oregon, of 42° N. latitude, strikes the coast near a 
 noticeable high pyramidal mound, rising abruptly from the plateau, which is destitute of timber. 
 
 CHEKTO BIVEB. 
 
 Five miles from the deepest part of St. George's bay, and in latitude 42° 01' N., longitude 
 124° 15' W., (both approximate,) empties a stream which is from 50 to 60 yards wide 
 at its mouth, with banks about 100 feet high, and bounded half a mile inshore by very high 
 hills. It appears deep and sluggish, and in August, 1853, was completely closed at the 
 mouth by a heavy gravel beach. The anchorage off it is open and exposed from west to south, 
 with several reefs in and around it. No survey or reconnaissance has been made. Wo found 
 Indian huts in great numbers upon both banks, but most of the Indians were engaged higher 
 up the stream in taking salmon. 
 
 On the Coast Survey charts of 1853 this stream waa marked Illinois river. 
 
 From Point St. George to an arched rock about 40 feet high, in latitude 42° 11', the course is 
 NW. by N. 27 miles. The coast between the Chekto and the point within a mile of the arch 
 is high, bold, compact, and bordered by vast numbers of rocks, with very deep water close 
 inshore. From this the shore runs nearly NW. by N. ^ N. for 40 miles to Cape Orford, making 
 a long gentle curve of 4 miles to the eastward, and being in general high, abrupt, and rocky. 
 
 bogue's riveb. 
 
 Within the long stretch just referred to is found the entrance.of Rogue's river, in latitude 
 42° 25' N. and longitude 124° 22' W., both approximate, having a long, low, sandy point on 
 the south side, and a high, steep hill, with two large rocks off its base at the north side. It 
 comes from the interior between high mountains, and it is next to impossible to travel along its 
 course. Just within the entrance and on the north side were large Indian villages in 1853. 
 When passing it in moderate nofthwest weather the sea wa« breaking heavily across the bar, 
 and this is reported to be generally the case. It has not been examined or surveyed, and the 
 depth of wat«ron the bar is variously reported from 10 to 18 feet; the former, doubtless, nearer 
 the truth. McArthur reports ten feet on the bar, but that the channel is too narrow for 
 soiling vessels to turn in. In the spring of 1850 the New York pilot boat W. G. Hagstaff 
 entered the river, and we believe was attacked by the Indians, deserted, plundered, and burnt. 
 The next vessel that entered was the schooner Sam. Roberts, in July of the same year, which 
 got out safely. We know of no other vessels ever having made the attempt. 
 
78 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OP 
 
 Near the entrance commences the detached deposits of auriferous sand and gravel, which are 
 found northward along the coast to the Coquille river. 
 
 The name of the river was suggested by the dishonest propensities of the natives in its 
 vicinity. On the maps it is called Toutounis, and the Too-too-tut-na or Klamet. These names, 
 we judge, have arisen from misapprehension, because the Indians hereabouts when asked a 
 qflestion which they do not understand, answered to6-ta, too-ta,' to6-ta, signifying negation, 
 and rendered more emphatic by repetition. Or the name may be derived from the Too-too-tan 
 village, some distance up the river. That existing (1853) on the north head of the mouth of 
 the river is Tar-shoots. Several campaigns have been made against the Rogue River Indians, 
 and they have been found a warlike and troublesome race; but the manner in which they were 
 treated by some of the early settlers was well calculated to rouse them to a war of retaliation. 
 
 rogue's biver beef. 
 
 The rocky islets composing this reef are not so large as the Dragon rocks, and run more 
 nearly parallel with the coast line. The southern group of rocks lies W. ^ N., about four 
 miles from the north head of the entrance to Rogue's river, and stretches northward three 
 miles, where a gap occurs between them, and another cluster lying a mile and a half off shore. 
 Off this inner group lie several dangerous sunken rocks, which must be sharply watched from 
 aloft when the sea is not heavy enough to break upon them. As seen from the southward, the 
 inside rock of the outer group shows a perpendicular face eastward, and sloping back to the 
 west. The channel through this reef is perhaps a mile wide, but more dangerous than any 
 other on the coast. No hydrographic survey has been made of it, and it is never used by the 
 coasting steamers. 
 
 Abreast of the northern part of this reef is a five-mile stretch of low sand beach, backed by 
 high, rugged, wooded hills, when the shore changes to an abrupt and precipitous face to Port 
 Orford. Many rocks closely border the shore, and five miles south of Port Orford & high 
 rocky islet lies nearly a mile off the base of a hill about 1,000 feet high. 
 
 PORT ORFORD. 
 
 This is by far the best summer roadstead on the coast between Los Reyes and the Strait of 
 Juan de Fuca. From the extremity of the SW. point eastward to the main shore the distance 
 is two miles, and from this line to the greatest bend of the shore northward the distance is one 
 mile. The soundings within this space range from 16 fathoms close to Tichenor's Rock, forming 
 the SW. point of the bay, to 3 fathoms within one-quarter of a mile of the beach on the north- 
 east side; with 5 fathoms at the base of the rocky points on the northwest side towards 
 Tichenor's Rock, one mile off the shores of the bay, the average depth is about 14 fathoms, 
 regularly decreasing inshore. 
 
 The point forming the western part of the bay presents a very rugged, precipitous outline, 
 and attains an elevation of 350 feet. Its surface is covered with excellent soil and with a sparse 
 growth of fir. From this point the shore becomes depressed to about 60 feet at the northern 
 or middle part of the shore of the bay where the town is located. The hills behind are 
 covered with a thick growth of fir and cedar. 
 
 The anchorage is usually made with the eastern end of the town bearing north, being just 
 open to the east of a high rock on the beach, in 6 fathoms water, hard bottom; having a sharp, 
 high point bearing NW. by W. one-quarter of a mile distant, the beach in front of the town 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 79 
 
 distant a quarter of a milo; and throe rocks just in tho throe-fathom line E. by N., dintant half 
 a mile. Steamers anchor a little to the eastward of this position, and closer to the town, in 4 
 fathoms. Coasters from the south in summer beat up close inshore, stretching inside of the 
 outlyinj? islets to avoid the heavy swell outside. Coming from the northward they keep just 
 outside of a high rook one-third of a mile oft" tho western head, and round Tichenor's Rock 
 within half a uiilc. In winter anchor far enough out to be ready to put to sea when a south- 
 easter comes up. During a protracted gale in December, 1851, a terrible sea rolled in that no 
 vessel could have ridden out. The old steamer Sea Gull was driven northward, and lost two 
 wi-eks in regaining her position, and tho mail steamer Columbia hardly held her own for many 
 hours off the Orford reef. 
 
 The usual landing is between the rock called Battle Rock, north of the anchorage, and the 
 point of rock close on its west side. A road is cut from here up to the town, which consists of 
 but a few houses. Sometimes a landing is made on the rocky beach a quarter of a mile west- 
 ward of Battle Rock, in the bight where a sloping grassy bluff comes to the water; but this, 
 landing is over a rocky bottom. A road is cut up the slope to the site of the military post of 
 Port Orford, which is now abandoned. 
 
 From "Battle Rock" the shore eastward is skirted by sand beach for IJ mile to a rough, 
 rocky point called Coal Point. About midway in this distance empties a small creek, whose 
 banks are composed of a deposit of auriferous sand and gravel, the same as found in front of 
 the town abreast of Battle Rock, and which has yielded as high as $30 to $40 per diem to each 
 miner. 
 
 Several attempts have been made to open a road from this place to tho mines about 60 or 70 
 miles eastward, but thus far witliout success. Several parties have gone through, but could 
 find no direct available route for pack animals. Upon the opening of *8uch a road it would 
 become a large depot of supply for the interior. In the neighborhood of Port Orford are found 
 immense quantities of the largest and finest white cedar on the coast, and for some years a 
 saw-mill has been in operation, affording a small supply for tho San Francisco market of this 
 lumber, unapproachable in quality by any on the Atlantic coast. 
 
 The primary astronomical station of the Coast Survey, established here in 1851, is on the 
 top of the ridge just west of the town, at a height of 262 feet above the sea, and within a few 
 yards of the western edge of the bluff. Its geographical position is : 
 
 o ' '/ 
 
 Latitude 42 44 21.7 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 28 47 west. 
 
 h. m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 8 17 55.2 
 
 Magnetic variation 18° 29' east, in November, 1851, with a yearly increase of about 1'.4. 
 From this station Tichenor's Rock bears S. by W., three quarters of a mile distant. 
 The secondary astronomical station (1853) is in front of the town, north of Battle Rock, and 
 within 50 yards of the edge of the bluff. Its geographical position is; 
 
 o ' tt 
 
 Latitude 42 44 28.2 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 28 13 west. 
 
 h. m. J. 
 
 Or, in time 8 17 52.8 
 
 Tides. — The correct establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit 
 
80 EEPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 and the time of high water is Xlh. XXVIw. The mean rise and fall of tides is 5.1 feet; of 
 spring tides 6.8 feet, and of neap tides 3.7 feet. The mean duration of the flood is 6/i. 19m., 
 of the ebb, 6/i. 1m., and of the stand 0/;. 39m. The average difference betM'een the corrected 
 establishment of the a. m. and p. m. tides of the same day is lA. 22m. for high water and 
 Oh. iOm. for low water. The differences when the moon's declination is greatest are 2h. 12m. 
 and Ih. 28m., respectively. The average difference in height of those two tides is 1.4 foot for 
 the high waters, and 2.6 feet for the low waters. "When the moon's declination is greatest 
 those differences are 2.3 feet and 3. 9 feet, respectively. The average difference of the highest 
 high and lowest low waters of the same day is 7.1 feet, and when the moon's declination is 
 greatest 8.2 feet. The highest high water in the twenty-four hours occurs about lOh. 45m. 
 after the moon's upper transit, (southing,) when the moon's declination is north, and about 
 IJi. 14m. before when south. The lowest of the low waters occurs about 7 hours after the 
 highest high water. 
 
 This bay was called Ewing Harbor in 1850 by McArthur, but is now known by no other 
 name than Port Orford, from its proximity to Cape Orford. A sketch of it was published by 
 the Coast Survey Oihce in 1854. 
 
 From the western extremity of Port Orford, Cape Orford or Blanco bears NW. ^ N., distant 
 6 uailes, the shore line between them curving eastward about a mile. Immediately north of 
 iPort Orford it is composed of a very broad, loose sand beach, backed by a long uniform sand 
 ridge of 100 feet height, covered with grass, fern, sallal bushes, and a few firs; while behind 
 this the ground falls and forms lagoons and marshes. This ridge extends nearly to the mouth 
 of a stream called Hlk river, 3^ miles from Tichenor's Rock. This narrow stream, fordable at its 
 mouth at low tides, comes for miles through broad marshes covered with fir and white cedar, 
 and an almost impenetrable undergrowth. The south side at the mouth is low, sandy, and flat; 
 the north side, a slope rising from the marsh inshore and terminating on the beach in a perpen- 
 dicular bluff, averaging 100 feet high, covered with timber to its very edge for a couple of 
 miles, when the timber retreats some distance inland. The face of this bluff exhibits vast 
 numbers of fossil shells in the sandstone. At its base a sand beach exists which may be 
 travelled at low water. 
 
 CAPE GEFOKD, OR BLANCO. 
 
 In making this cape from the northward or southward it presents a great similarity to Point 
 Conception; appearing first as an island, because the neck connecting it with the main is 
 comparatively low, flat, and destitute of trees, with which the cape is heavily covered to the 
 edge of the cliff. It is, perhaps, over 200 feet high, but the trees upon it make it appear at 
 least 100 feet more. The sides are very steep, and worn away by the action of the sea, showing 
 a dull whitish appearance usually, but bright when the sun is shining upon them. At the base 
 are many black rocks and ledges stretching out to form the inner part of Orford reef. In the 
 bend, southeast of the cape, rises a large, high, single rock, about 100 yards from the beach. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of the cape is: 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 42 50 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 30 west. 
 
 Being thus the most western part of the main land until we reach latitude 47° 50'. 
 
 From it Cape Mendocino bears S. by E. | E., distant 145 miles; Cape Disappointment light, 
 at the north head of the entrance to the Columbia, N. by W. J W., distant 207 miles; and 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 81 
 
 Tatoosh islHnd light, off Cape Flattery, N.NW., 332 milcB. From the lino joining Bitinco and 
 Gape Disappointment the const does not, in any place, leave it more than 12 miles. 
 
 A 4igbt of the first order is required upon this cape, or upon one of thQ rocky islets of the' 
 outlying reef. 
 
 Upon old Spanish maps a capo near this latitude has been called Blanco, from the assertion 
 that 4°tonio Flores discovered and so named it in 1603. He says that from this cape the ceast 
 trends northwest, and near it he found a large river which he tried to enter, but could not on 
 account of the strong current running out. 
 
 At that time the magnetic declination must have been about zero, and perhaps several 
 degrees west. Assuming it as zero, the coast thence northward for nearly 100 miles trended 
 N. by E. J E. In a translation of Russian voyages to the northwest coast, published in 1761, 
 we find a cape laid down in latitude 424° called C. Blanco de San Sebastian, thus combining 
 Vizcaino's discovery and his pilot's. — (See remarks upon Point St. George.) 
 
 The name Orford was given by Vancouver, in 1792, and placed by him in latitude 42° 52'. 
 On the western coast this name is now almost invariably used. • 
 
 ORFORD REEF. 
 
 About 4 miles off the coast, between Port and Cape Orford, lies a group of rocky islets and 
 sunken rocks. There are seven large, high ones within an area of one square mile, .with small 
 ones that are just awash, and others upon which the sea only breaks in very heavy weather. . 
 
 The southeastern rock is called the "Fin rock," and has a perpendicular face to the south- 
 west, with a sloping surface to the northeast. Near if are several low, black rocks. The Fin 
 rock lies W. | N., distant 4 J miles from the western point of Port Orford, but the general direction 
 of the other six is N.NW. from Fin rock. West from Port Orford, and distant 4 J miles, is a 
 small, black rock, and near it a smaller one, upon which the sea breaks only occasionally. W. 
 by N. J N., distant 4| miles from Port Orford, lies the largest of the seven islets, rising up with 
 high and nearly perpendicular sides. On the same course, and a mile and a quarter further 
 out, is a small rock, and half way between them a rock awash. This is the northern limit of 
 the group. 
 
 Stretching S.SW. for a mile and a third from Cape Orford are numerous rocky islets and 
 sunken rocks, with large fields of kelp; but ceasing at that distance, a passage is left one and a 
 half mile wide between them and the northern islets of the outer group. The course through 
 the middle of the passage, clearing the rock called Klooqueh, off the western point of Port 
 Orford, is N W. by W. , with ten fathoms rocky bottom on the shoalest part of that line. 
 
 This passage is in constant use by mail and coasting steamers, but the hydrography of the ' 
 reef has not yet been executed, and only a preliminary examination of the position of the outer 
 rocks. Although the general trend of the southern group is N.NW., it is very probable that 
 they are a continuation of the reef making out from the cape. 
 
 One mile north of Cape Orford empties a small stream having a great number of rocks off its 
 mouth. In 1851 it was usually called Sikhs river, the "jargon " name for friend. On some 
 maps wo find a stream near this locality called the Sequalchin river. The village upon the 
 Sikhs is called Te-ch6h-quut. 
 
 From Point Boneta to Cape Orford the e'xtent of shore lino is 388 miles; Boneta to Mendocino 
 being 223 miles. 
 
 Oeneral/ealures. — From Cape Mendocino the hills upon the seaboard range about 3,000 feet 
 11 
 
82 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 high, running parallel with the coast at a distance of from 3 to 5 miles; receding somewhat at 
 the Eel river valley and Point St. George ; and at other points coming abruptly to the ocean. 
 The whole face of the country is covered with dense forests, and offers almost insurmountable 
 obstacles to the opening of roads intended to strike the trail leading along the valleys of the 
 Sacramento and Wallamut. 
 
 Northward of Cape Orford the appearance and nature of the coast assumes a marked 
 change. Long reaches of low white sand beach occur, and sand dunes, broken by bold rocky 
 headlands, and backed by high irregular ridges of mountains. On the sea-face and southern 
 sides of many of these prominent points no timber grows, and they present a bright lively 
 green of fern, grass, and bushes. The general altitude of the mountains appears the same as 
 to the southward. 
 
 COQUILLE RIVER. 
 
 From Cape Orford to the mouth of the Coquille, in latitude 43° 7', the coast rune exactly 
 nortli, with a slight curve of a mile and a half eastward, and a short distance north of Orford 
 consists of a low sand beach, immediately behind which are long shallow lagoons receiving the 
 water from the mountains, but having no visible outlet to the sea. Along this shore the 
 soundings range from 7 to 15 fathoms at a distance of a mile. 
 
 The south point of the entrance to this river is a high bluff headland, whilst the north point 
 is a long, low, narrow spit of sand, overlapping, as it were, the southern head, so that the 
 channel runs parallel with and close under it, (1851.) A short distance off it lie several rocks, 
 but not of sufficient size to lessen the western swell which breaks continually across the bar. 
 The widest part of the mouth is less than 100 yards, after which the river spreads out into a 
 largfe sheet of shallow water, about two miles long by three-quarters of a mile broad, and 
 bounded by low ground. Into the northeast part of this lagoon enters the river, which has 
 been followed a distance of about 30 miles in a northeasterly direction, and having a depth 
 throughout of not less than 15 feet, and an average width of 40 yards. It drains a very fertile 
 region, densely covered with many varieties of wood. Numerous Indian encampments were 
 found along its banks from the mouth, and quite extensive fish weirs were discovered and 
 destroyed. 
 
 When off the entrance, in 1854, Ave saw about a dozen houses which had been built by the 
 
 miners engaged in washing the auriferous sand and gravel at the back of the beach. In 
 
 approaching this coast we encountered a very heavy swell, with the water changing to a dark 
 
 brown color, and after passing through it tacked off shore, hove to, and sounded near its outer 
 
 • limit, but found no bottom with 84 fathoms of line. 
 
 The alleged depredations of the Indians in this section led to a campaign against them in 
 1851. • 
 
 Some recent maps have a river here, called the Soquils, and one within a short distance 
 called the Cotamyts, but no such stream exists in this vicinity. 
 
 CAPE GREGORY. , 
 
 Between the Coquille river and this headland we find another low sand beach for ten miles 
 to the south part of Gregory, which rises up very -precipitously; the hill attaining perhaps 
 2,000 feet elevation two miles back, runs in a straight line northward for three or four miles, 
 and bounded by many rocks, slopes to the northward to a perpendicular point, about 60 feet 
 
TUB UNITED STATES COAST SUBV9 88 
 
 high, and peculiarly cut and worn by the action of the sea. Thence it takes a sharp turn to 
 the E.NE. for two miles, to the bar off the entrance to Koos bay. The cape, as seen from the 
 southward, shows a couple of rocks a short distancs from its western point. AJong the low 
 shore soundings in 10 fathoms are found one mile off. We have been informed that vessels 
 anchoring close under the north face of the cape may ride out heavy southeast gales. If so, it 
 is very important, no other place between Sir Francis Drake's and Ne6-ah bay, except, 
 perhaps, under Destruction island, affording that protection. If a southeaster should haul to 
 the SW., and then NW., as they usually do, the chances of getting out would be very few. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of the NW. point of the cape is: 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 43 20 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 20 west. 
 
 And it bears north 30 miles from Cape Orford. 
 
 It was named by Captain Cook, who placed it by bearings in latitude 43° 30', and is 
 described by him as follows: "This point is rendered remarkable by the land of it rising 
 immediately from the sea to a tolerable height, and that on each side of it is very low." 
 Vancouver placed it in 43° 23'. 
 
 It is sometimes called by the recent appellation of Arago, which has been adopted on the 
 Coast Survey chaj- ts. It is known by both on the western coast. 
 
 • KOOS BAT. 
 
 • Nearly 3 miles E.NE. of the northern extremity of Cape Gregory is the wide and well 
 marked entrance t^ Koos bay. The south head is high and bold, being the base of the hills 
 forming the cape, whilst the north point is low and sandy, with small sand dunes. We cannot 
 state their distance apart. On the bar, extending some distance out, a depth of only 9 to 9J 
 feet of water is found, but several small coasting steamers pass over, and not unfrequently 
 thump upon it. The bay presents the appearance of a long lagoon having two branches, one 
 stretching southeast from the entrance, and the other following the trend of the coast north- 
 ward. Traffic is drawn hither by t.he mining of the coal (lignite) which is carried to the San 
 Francisco market, but is found unfit for steamship consumption. The geology of the country 
 does not give promise of coal. 
 
 We have seen the sea breaking completely across the entrance in moderate northwest 
 weather, and know that the mail steamer has tried to enter, but upon seeing the danger would 
 not take the risk. 
 
 The naii^e Koos is that approaching nearest the Indian pronunciation of the word. On some 
 maps we find a small stream called Cahoos, disemboguing just south of Gape Gregory. The 
 name on the Coast Survey charts is Kowes, being that used on the first reconnaissance. 
 
 The 'word Koos signifies, in the Too-too-tan language, a lake, lagoon, or land-locked bay. 
 Duflot de Mofras translates it R. des Vaches. 
 
 In January, 1859, the line of eqval magnetic vartatwinoi 19° east crosses the coast-line in 
 latitude 43° 39', and in latitude 43° 29', crosses the 125° of longitude. This line moves 
 annually southward about 1 ^ mile. 
 
 UMPQUAH RIVEB. 
 
 North of Koos bay to the Umpquah river is another straight, low sand beach, with sand 
 dunes, backed by a high ridge of hills densely timbered. The shore runs nearly north, pre- 
 
84 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 seating a very white appearance when the sun shines upon it, and having from 10 to 15 
 fathoms of water one mile off the beach. 'The southern point of the entrance to the river is 
 a marked spur of the mountains from the southeast, and is bordered by sand dunes. The north 
 side of the entrance is a long range of white shifting sand hills, running with the coast for two 
 miles, and suddenly changing to high, rocky hills covered with wood. The river is the largest 
 stream entering the Pacific between the Sacramento and the Columbia rivers. It is 51 miles 
 N. I W. from Cape Orford, and 21 miles north of Cape Gregory. The entrance is long and 
 narrow, running nearly north for 5 miles ; bordered on the south side by a rocky, wooded 
 shore ; on the north, .for two miles, by loose sand hills, changing, after the first mile, to sand 
 sparsely covered with coarse grass, bushes, and fir, and in 4 miles to steep, high, rocky banks, 
 covered with large trees. An immense flat, mostly bare at low water,' stretches south from 
 the north point to within 300 yards of the south side of the entrance, through which narrow 
 space runs the channel, having (1853) a bar with only 13 feet upon it, and less than 100 yards 
 wide. From the bar the point of bluff, just inside the entrance, bears NE. by E., and is 
 distant 1| mile. About 1851 or 1852, two range marks were placed on the south shore for 
 running in by, and they are frequently referred to as data by which to trace the changes of 
 the bar ; but the captain who erected them has assured us that the bar was not on their range, 
 but to the southward of it. 
 
 Buoys for crossing tJic bar. — In January, 1858, it was announced that the bar had been 
 marked by buoys. Two third class nun-buoys, painted white Avith white and black perpen- 
 dicular, stripes, are placed in line with the light-house, which bears from them B. by N. ^ N. 
 The inner buoy is just within the bar, and in 3J fathoms at mean low water, and can be passed 
 on either hand, but only close to it. The outer buoy is just outside the bar in 10 fathoms at 
 the same stage of the tide, and can also be passed on either hand. Keeping the two buoys in 
 range with the light-house, 14 feet may be carried over the bar at mean low water. 
 
 The above directions show that the bar of the river has moved about 400 yards to the 
 northward of its position, as determined by the hydrographic survey of 1853, and has, more- 
 over, deepened. In light weather it can be readily determined by the breakers on each side, 
 but with a heavy swell the sea is terrific. In October, 1852, the Coast Surveyirg steamer 
 Active lay off the bar two days trying to get in, but found it impracticable. Several steamers 
 Lave thumped heavily on the bar, one nearly carrying away her sternpost, and in 1858 the 
 mail steamship Columbia in coming out had her decks swept fore and Uf by the huge combers 
 rolling in like high walls. Several vessels have been lost at its entrance, and within a very 
 recent period no pilots belonged to the river, because the trade was too small to pay. 
 
 During the early part of November, 1858, the bar at the entrance to the'Umpquah changed 
 greatly, and the depth of water upon it was so muph decreased that the steamship Columbia, 
 which thumped over it, could not leave the river for several weeks. Upon sounding at the 
 entrance it was found that the channel across the bar had moved about half a mile northward 
 of its former position. 
 
 UMPQUAH EIVEB LIGHT-HOUSE. 
 
 The light-house is erected on the south side of the entrance, close to the beach, which is of 
 shifting sand. The structure consists of a keeper's dwelling of stone, with a whitewashed 
 .tower of brick rising above it, and surmounted by an iron lantern painted red ; the entire 
 height being 92 feet, and the height of the light 100 feet above the mean sea level. The light 
 
. THE UNITED STATES COAST SURYEY. 85 
 
 is a fixtd white light of the third ordor of the syBtem of Fresnel. It was first exhy^ited October 
 10, 1857, and shows every night from sunset to sunrise. In an ordinary state of the atmo- 
 sphere it should be seen from a height of 10 feet at a distance of 15 miles ; 20 feet at a distance 
 of 16J miles; 30 feet at a distance of 17| miles. 
 
 In the day time the towoi will s'how projected against the dark green fir on the hills behind 
 it, and with the sand dunes to the north, be a capital mark for making the river. 
 
 The geographical position of the light, as determiped by the Coast Survey, is: 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 43 40 18.5 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 11 0.3 west. 
 
 h, m. «. 
 
 Or, in time * 8 16 44.2. 
 
 Magnetic variation 18° 55' east, in July, 1851, with a yearly increase of 1'.4. 
 
 From the bar the light bears E. by N. J N., distant about a mile, (1858.) After crossing the 
 bar the channel, when approaching the light-house, runs close to the south shore, and increases 
 in depth from 3J fathoms to 13 off the point of bluff. Abreast of the meeting of the sand 
 beach and bluff, and on the south side, lies a rock, visible at extreme low tide, upon the three- 
 fathom curve. It is not laid down on any chart. From the point of bluff vessels steer across 
 the river to strike the east side of the north point, about one-third of a mile from its extremity; 
 then haul across E.NE. to the other shore, close along which the channel runs; this course 
 takes theil clear of a flat and rocks in mid-river, and bearing E.NE. from the south end of the 
 north point. The small indentation of the shore line on the right, after making the first 
 stretch from the point of bluff, is called Winchester bay, having no water, and being but an 
 extensive mud flat; three miles inside the light-house the river continues half a mile wide, 
 then expands to a mile, and is filled with numerous extensive sand and mud flats. Five miles 
 from the light-house it bends sharply to the eastward. 
 
 A preliminary chart of the entrance to Umpquah river was issued from the Coast Survey 
 Office in 1854. 
 
 The secondary astronomical station of the Coast Survey was on the west side of the river 
 on the edge of the first grove of fir, and one mile fft)m the end of the north point. Its 
 geographical position is : 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 43 41 453. north. 
 
 Longitude 124 09 57.0 west. 
 
 h. m. (. 
 
 Or, in time 8 16 39.8. 
 
 This river is said to drain an extremely fertile region abounding in prairie land well adapted 
 to agriculture and grazing. Ross Cox mentions a pine tree discovered in the Umpquah valley 
 measuring 216 feet to its lowest branches, and being 57 feet in circumference. 
 
 The Indian name for the river below the rapids is Kah-la-wat-set, and to the upper part 
 they apply the name Umpt'quah. 
 
 The first vessel we know of entering it was the schooner Sam Boberts, August 4, 1850, after 
 coming out of Rogue's river. 
 
 This river is sometimes supposed to be the river discovered by Flores in 1603, and after- 
 wards referred to as the "River of the West." 
 
 From the Umpquah the coast runs in a remarkably straight line N. by W. ^ W. to the south 
 
86 • REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OK 
 
 point of the ^trance to the Columbia river, in no case varying more than 3 miles inside the 
 line joining these two places. 
 
 Bank. — NW. by N., distant 66 miles from Cape Orford, is the southern end of a bank extending 
 parallel with the coast for 30 miles, and about the same distance from it. The least depth yet 
 discovered upon it is 43 fathoms, and the nature of the bottom very variable, there being blue 
 mud, coarse blue sand, coral, pebbles, gravel, mud, and shells. Coasting vessels have often 
 reported passing over localities having a heavy swell upon them, and one frequently so 
 reported near the Umpquah led to the examination which discovered this. When Heceta was 
 upon this coast, and in this vicinity, he said: "On Sunday I found great diflferences [of depth;] 
 at 7 leagues I got bottom at 80 fathoms; and nearer the coast I sometimes found no bottom." 
 Should a thorough examination of his discoveries here satisfactorily show that he did really 
 cross this or any yet undiscovered adjacent bank, it would be a tribute to his explorations on 
 this coast to apply his name to it. 
 
 CAPE PERPETUA. 
 
 After leaving the Umpquah 2 or 3 miles a bold rocky coast, with high steep hills covered 
 with timber, runs straight for about 8 miles, changing to low sandy beach with sand dunes, 
 backed by a high ridge of hills. This continues for 15 miles, when the hills stretch out to the 
 Bhore, and crowd upon to end abruptly in steep bluffs forming Cape Perpetua, which is 39 
 miles N. by "W. ^ W. from Umpquah light, with an approximate geographical position of 
 latitude 44° 19', longitude 124° 06'. The face of the cape is nearly 5 miles long, with very 
 slight projection from the straight trend of the shore. It is very high, and has a regular 
 although steep descent to the shore, bringing the trees to its very edge. 
 
 From the Umpquah to Perpetua, at a distance of a mile from the shore, soundings are laid 
 down from 8 to 14 fathoms. 
 
 This cape was named by Cook in 1778, and by bearings placed in latitude 44° 06'. Vancouver, 
 in 1792, gave its position in latitude 44° 12'. 
 
 In recent maps we find a small stream opening south ©f Cape Perpetua, called the Sciisteum 
 river. "We could not detect it in 1853 from the distance of a mile, but believe there is a creek, 
 with the name of Scius-clan, in this locality. 
 
 To the northward of Perpetua the coast range of hills is cut by numerous valleys, through 
 which flow many small streams to the ocean. 
 
 TAQUINNAH EIVER. 
 
 Nine miles north of Perpetua is the mouth of a stream believed to be the Yaquinnah. It is 
 said to expand into a bay, 3 miles long by 1^ wide, running nearly east, and very much con- 
 tracted at the middle, where a small islet exists. The south head to the entrance is formed by 
 a spur of the hills from Perpetua. The north point has likewise a bold head with a low sand 
 spit stretching south half a mile. The entrance is in latitude 44° 27' north, (approximate.) 
 
 Recent maps place the Alciyco river about this latitude. No name is given in the last Coast 
 Survey reconnaissance, and it was not seen at all by McArthur in 1850. 
 
 The names of the streams hence to the northward are very conflicting, and will continue so 
 until a land exploration is made along the seaboard for determining their peculiarities and the 
 latitudes of their mouths. 
 
THE UXTTED STATES COAST 8DRVEY. • 87 
 
 CELETSE BIVEB. 
 
 North of Perpetua the shore continues straight, high and bold for 5 miles, when a cluster of 
 rocks occur, and the bluff chaijos to low sand beach, running nearly to the mouth of a. small 
 stream, about 5 miles south of Cape Foulweather, called the Alseya on the Coast Survey recon- 
 naissance of 1850, and the Celetse in 1853. This name is the proper one. The north head, 
 which is bold, has a rock close under it. Thence the shore is low and sandy to Foulweather. 
 
 cape" foulweather. 
 
 From Perpetua to this cape the soundings range from 7 to 12 fathoms about a mile from 
 shore. The cape is in latitude 44° 45' north, and longitude 124° 04' west, and forms a high, 
 bold headland, half a mile in width, jutting out about half a mile from the low beach and backed 
 by high mountains. It is covered with wood, and has several small rocks on ita-eouthwest face, 
 with one rocky islet a mile from it. To the northward of the cape are three rocky islets standing 
 a short distance from the low beach, and readily distinguished by being projected against it. 
 In August, 1853, the astronomical party of the survey was very desirous of effecting a landing 
 on or near this cape, but the sea was rolling in too heavily to warrant the attempt. There was 
 no appearance of a landing being at all feasible except in remarkably quiet weather. 
 
 This cape was named by Cook on the day he made the coast, March 6, 1778, but the poiut 
 of the headland, so called on the Coast Survey reconnaissance of 1853, is not that referred to 
 by him. At noon he was in latitude 44° 33', and the land extended from NE. J N.To SE. by 
 S. about 8 leagues distant. In this situation he had 73 fathoms over a muddy bottom, and 90 
 fathoms a league further off shore. The land he describes of moderate height, divei-sified by 
 hills and valleys, and principally covered with wood. No striking object presenting itself 
 except a high hill with a flat summit, which bore east from him at noon. This nwwt have been 
 what he subsequently called 6ape Perpetua. At the northern extreme the land formed a point, 
 which he named Cape Foulweather, from the exceeding bad weather he met with soon after. 
 The expression "northern extreme" has led some geographers to place the cape as high as 
 latitude 45J°, but he judged the Foulweather he named to be in 44" 55'. Being here driven 
 off the coast by continued bad weather ho had no opportunity to verify his position, and did 
 not sight the land again until in latitude 47° 05'; thus passing by the entrance to the Columbia. 
 Vancouver places it in latitude 44° 49'. Both of these determinations evidently refer to the 
 northern part of the high land. 
 
 Nekas river. — Soon after passing Foulweather the shore becomes abrupt and moderately high, 
 with an increased depth of water immediately off it. Four miles south of the Nekas, which is 
 in latitude 44° 56', it changes to low sand dunes stretching into a narrow point, forming the 
 south point of the stream, while the north point is a low bluff. The entrance is very narrow 
 and shoal, and inside the river is reported to spread out into a bay of about a mile*in extent, 
 and receiving the wat«r8 of a stream draining a valley coming from the eastward. 
 
 The name is that used on the Coast Survey charts of 1860 and 1853. Previous maps have a . 
 small stream emptying near this, called the Cowes river. 
 
 Fro^the Nekas to Cape Lookout the distance is 24 miles, and course N. by W. J W., with 
 a shore-line broken by several small streams, amongst which are the Ntdume (reconnaissance, 
 1853,) in latitude 45° 02*, with rocks in the entrance; the Nesluggah (reconnaissance, 1863,) in 
 latitude 45° 06', called Vaquinna in reconnaitisauce of 1850, and having a large rock off its 
 
88 EEPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OP 
 
 mouth; the Nawuggah (reconnaissance, 1853,) in latitude 45° 14', and on the south side of 
 whose entrance- is a single rocky islet, hereafter referred to. 
 
 CAPE LOOKOUT. 
 
 The soundings from Foulweather to this cape show from 13 to 31 fathoms of water at a 
 distance of a mile from the shore, increasing from l8 fathoms north of latitude 45° N. 
 
 This capo is situated in latitude 45° 20', longitude 124° 00'. It projects somewhat sharply 
 into the sea for half a mile, and as seen from the south the top is tolerably flat and regular, and 
 at the highest part we judge it to attain an elevation of 3, 000 feet. The face directly toward 
 the ocean is perpendicular, high, and toward the south destitute of trees. About 8 miles 
 southward of it is a large single rock off the Nawuggah, estimated to be 250 feet high, and 
 standing well out from the low sand beach behind it. No rocks lie off this cape, but one 
 appears very close in shore about a mile to the northward of it. 
 
 This name is that used on the Coast Survey charts of 1850 and 1853, and is intended to 
 apply to the cape mentioned and fully described in July, 1778, by Meares, whose description 
 has been corroborated by Vancouver and incidentally by ourselves. 
 
 For January, 1859, the line of equal magnetic variation of 20° east crosses the coast-line in 
 latitude 45° 23', and in latitude 45° 13' crosses the 125° of longitude. This line annually 
 moves about 1 mile southward. g^^gi^ /f^-^ 
 
 , CAPE MEARES. 
 
 Two or three miles after leaving Cape Lookout the land falls to a low sand beach, behind 
 which is a long lagoon, called the Nat-a-hats, stretching northward, and having an opening 
 under the south head of the well marked Point North, which is the termination of a spur or 
 ridge running from the southeastward, presenting an abrupt front to the ocean for about two 
 miles, and being part of the western boundary of Tillamook bay. In coming down this coast 
 in the fall of 1857 we made a few notes upon some objects, and find the following memorandum 
 made whilst near this point: "three high rocks (one arch) off point south of False Tillamook; 
 one more on the north side." Not being then aware of any doubt as to the name of the cape, 
 no other particulars were noted. Four rocks are laid down off the southwest face on the Coast 
 Survey reconnaissance of 1850, and one on the north. Three large rocks and one small one 
 are laid down off the southwest face in the original sheets of the reconnaissance of 1853, the 
 most distant being one mile from shore, with several small ones between them and the shore; 
 and two or three others off the northwest face. 
 
 In 1775 Heceta placed La Mesa, the Table, in latitude 45° 28' — a flat-topped mountain, seen 
 at a great distance. 
 
 In July, 1788, Meares, in the Felice, after passing False Tillamook, says: "The distant 
 southerly headland we called Cape Lookout. This cape is very high and bluff, and termi- 
 nates abruptly in the sea. At about the distance of two miles from it there rose three large 
 rocks, which are very remarkable for the great resemblance thej' bear each other. The 
 middle one has an archway, perforated, as it were, in its centre, through which we plainly 
 discovered the distant sea. They more particularly attracted our notice as we laid no^ 
 observed between King George's sound and this place any rocks so conspicuously situated 
 near the land; their distance from each other might be one-quarter of a mile, and we gave 
 them the name of the 'Three Brothers.' By eight in the evening we were within 3 or 4 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 89 
 
 loiigaes of Capo Lookout, which we judged to lio in latitude 45'^ 30^ north, longitude 235° 60' 
 east." 
 
 In 1792 Vancouver described it as a small projecting point, yet remarkable for the four 
 rocks which lie off it, one of which is perforated as described by Moares. lie places it in 
 latitude 45= 32'. 
 
 This cape is very frequently, but erroneously, stated to be the " Clarke's Point of View," 
 as described by Clarke in the winter of 1805-'6. 
 
 In the Coast Survey reconnaissance of 1853 the northern part of tliis capo is placed in 
 latitude 45° Sty, longitude 123'^ 58', and stretching southward two miles to the cluster of rocks 
 above described. 
 
 TILLAMOOK BAY. 
 
 On tlje Coast Survey reconnaissance of 1853 the entrance to this bay is placed in latitude 
 45"'"%4', four miles north of Cape Meares. The southern point is low and the termination of 
 a spur from the crest of the cape, whilst the north head is high and bluQ". The entrance is 
 very narrow, and reported to have very little water upon the bar; inside it expands into a 
 long wide bay, stretching to the S.SE. behind Cape Meares. No survej' has yet been made of 
 it, and some doubts are expressed about the enlarging of the river to form a bay. Two miles 
 northward of the northern head stands a couple of large rocks; thence the coast runs nearly 
 straight to False Tillamook, receiving a considerable stream, called the NeJudem, in latitude 
 45^41'. Clarke, when about five miles south of Tillamook Head, says that "the principal 
 town of the Killannicks is situated 20 miles lower (south) at the entrance to a creek culled 
 Nielee, expanding into a bay, which he named Killamucks bay. Upon this bay were several 
 Killamuck towns. Killamuck river is at the head of the bay, 100 yards wide, and very rapid; 
 but having no perpendicular fall, is a great avenue for trade. There are two small villages of 
 Killamucks settled above its mouth, and the whole trading portion of tlie tribe ascend it till by 
 a short portage they carry their canoes to the Columbia valley, and descend the Multnomah to 
 Wappatoo island." This information he obtiiined from Indians and traders. On this short 
 expedition he made all his distances from Cape Disappointment and Point Adams too great, 
 and reducing the forementioned 20 miles by the proper proportion, it would give us 13 miles 
 as about the position of the Nehalem. His name seems to agree with this, but the description 
 applies to what is generally kno^vn as Tillamook bay. 
 
 The shore about the Nehalem is low and sandy, with sand dunes backed by high wooded hills, 
 and cut up by many valleys. It was here that Meares stood in for an anchorage (July 1788) 
 until he found bottom in 10 fathoms, but hauled out again and named the place Quicksand bay, 
 and the adjoining headland north. Cape Grenville. 
 
 CAPE FALCON OH FALSE TILLAMOOK. 
 
 The northern part of this headland lies in latitude 45° 47'. Longitude 123° 58'. Upon passing 
 close by it in 1857, we judged it to be not less than 3,000 feet high, with the sea-face coming 
 precipitously to the ocean; and off it are lying two prominent rocky islets. -As seen from the 
 southward the top is irregular, whilst the hills in shore fall away. Like some other points in 
 this latitude, tlic southern face of the cape is destitute of trees, but covered with a thick growth 
 of grass. ImshoH and fern. Two miles south of it is a stretch of sand beach and sand dunes. 
 12 
 
90 KEPORT OF THE SUPEKINTENDENT OF 
 
 From Capo Lookout to this headland a depth of 20 fathoms may generally be found a mile 
 from shore, but, as upon the whole coast, a heavy regular swell always rolls in from the w^est. 
 
 In 1775 Hoccta placed a headland in latitude 45° 43', to which he gave the appellation Cape 
 Falcon. According to his description it had a rocky islet lying off it. This name would be far 
 better than applj'ing the term "false" to capes, bays, &c., of the names of which we were not 
 at first certain. 
 
 In 1788 Meares called this Cape Grenville. 
 
 The Indian name for the head is Ne-a-kah-nie. 
 
 TILLAMOOK HEAD. 
 
 This prominent cape, in latitude 45° 58', is 12 miles N.NW. from Cape Falcon, and 19 miles 
 SB. by S. J S. from Cape Disappointment. The coast from Cape Falcon curves two miles east- 
 ward; is bold and rugged, guarded by many high rocky islets and reefs; and in several places 
 bordered by a low sand beach at the base of the cliifs. Two miles south of the head, Clarke 
 (1805-'6) locates a creek 80 yards wide at its mouth, which he calls Ecola, or whale creek. 
 From the south bar of the Columbia river the summit of Tillamook appears flat for some distance 
 back, and has an estimated height of 2, 500 feet. Off the face of the cape, which is very steep, 
 lie several rocky islets; one of them is high and rugged, and stands out about a mile from the 
 southwest face. Around it the water is believed to be deep, as we have seen a steamer come 
 almost upon it in a thick fog; but inside of it lie several high rocks. From the bar two rocks 
 can be distinctly seen, the inner being the larger, and its apparent distance from the head about 
 half the apparent height of the cape. Whether the smaller is the one off Cape Falcon we did 
 not determine. As seen from the southward the large rock has a perpendicular face to the 
 westward, and slopes to the east. It is the resort of thousands of seals. 
 
 This cape is a good landmark for making the mouth of the Columbia river, no such high 
 headland occurring on the coast northward of it for over 70 miles; and before being up with it 
 the moderately high land of Cape Disappointment is seen and made as two islands. 
 
 The face of the cape is much broken and formed principally of yellow clay, presenting a 
 bright appearance in the sunlight. Clai'ke says that 1,200 feet above the ocean occurs a stratum 
 of white earth, then (1805-6) used by the Indians as paint; and that the hill sides slip away in 
 masses of 50 to 100 acres at a time. 
 
 Upon the top of the cape Clarke says he found good, sound solid trees growing to a height 
 of 210 feet, and acquiring a diameter from 8 to 12 feet. 
 
 From Tillamook head southward many miles was the country of the Killamuck Indians, then 
 estimated to number 1,000 people, and having 50 houses. 
 
 This is the head which is properly called "Clarke's point of View." 
 
 The coast from Point Orford to Tillamook Head is well diversified by high hills and valleys, 
 presenting a country well watered by numerous small streams emptying into the ocean. It is 
 densely covered with various woods, and for a few miles inland looks favorably from the deck 
 of a vessel. Some distance in the interior ranges of mountains occur, the general direction of 
 which appears to be parallel with the coast line, which attained its greatest elevation and com- 
 pactness between Cape Falcon and Tillamook Head; after which a sudden and marked change 
 takes place, and a stretch of low sandy coast commences and runs for nearly 100 miles north- 
 ward, only broken by Cape Disappointment. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 8URVOT. 91 
 
 COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 POINT ADAMS. 
 
 Two miles northward of Tillamook Iload comiuouces a peculiar lino of low sandy ridges, run- 
 ning parallel to the boaoh towardn Point Adams, and appearing like huge sand waves covered 
 with grass and fern. Between some of them run small crocks, whilst behind the country is 
 low, swampy and covered with wood and an almost impenetrable undergrowth. About three 
 miles north of the head, Clarke says, a beautiful stream empties with a strong rapid current; it 
 is 85 yards wide, and has 3 feet at its shallowest crossing. 
 
 Point Adams is low and sandy, covered with bushes and trees to tlie line of sand beach and 
 low dunes; and although it is reported to have washed away over half a mile since 1841, we 
 find comparatively small changes since the survey of Brougmon in 1792. 
 
 The geographical position of the triangulation station of the Coast Survey on the point is: 
 
 Latitude 46 12 30.4 north. 
 
 Longitude 123 56 55.8 west. 
 
 A. m. t. 
 
 Or, in time 8 15 47.7 
 
 This station is on the inside of the point, and almost half a mile from it. 
 
 No light-house exists here, but the necessity for one has been so repeatedly urged that wo 
 cannot refrain from calling attention to a few facts bearing upon the question. Off this point, 
 SW. by S. Z\ miles, lies (1852) the bar of the south channel, through which the far greater 
 portion of the trade has passed ; and all vessels use this point as a standard point for their 
 ranges. During the early part of the evening dense fogs, formed over the waters of Gray's 
 and Shoalwater bays, are brought southward by the summer winds, and roll over Disappoint- 
 ment, which they completely shut in before reaching across the river, so that a vessel might 
 make a light on Point Adams when the other cape was invisible; but by seeing both lights a 
 vessel could hold any required position at night near either bar, and run in or take a pilot upon 
 the first opportunity; for it would bo assuming too great a risk to enter the river at night, or 
 without a pilot. 
 
 This point was called Cape Frondoso by Heceta, who discovered, but did not enter, this river 
 in August, 1775, and named Adams' Point by Captain Gray, in 1792. The Indian name of the 
 point is Klaat-sop. 
 
 The beach around Point Adams and to the southward some distance is usually called Clatsop 
 beach. Upon it, many years ago, before the whites occupied the country, a Chinese or Japanese 
 junk, with many hands and a cargo of beeswax, was cast ashore and went to pieces; but the 
 crew were saved. In support of this Indian tradition, there are occasionally, after great 
 storms, pieces of this wa.\ thrown ashore, coated with sand and bleached nearly white. 
 Formerly a great deal was found, but now it is rarely met with. Belcher mentions having a 
 specimen. Many people on the Columbia possess them, and we have seen several pieces. In 
 a late work this wreck has been confounded with another that took place near Cape Flattery. 
 
92 RKPORT OP THE SUPERINTENDENT OP 
 
 COAST AND SHORES OF WASHINGTON TERRITORY AND OPPOSITE SHORE OP 
 
 VANCOUVER ISLAND. 
 
 CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT. 
 
 The north side of the Columbia river forms part of "Washington Territory. 
 
 This cape is the only headland from Tillamook to latitude 47° 20' that breaks the low line of 
 shore. It presents a geological formation not before met with on the seaboard, being composed 
 of horizontal columnar basalt, rising to an elevation of 287 feet, disposed in a succession of huge 
 round hills, broken on the sea front by short strips of sand beach, and covering an irregular 
 area of about three miles by one. The sea-faces of all the hills and irregularly projecting 
 knobs rise perpendicularly for many feet, then slope slightly inshore to narrow ridges; are 
 destitute of trees, but covered with grass, fern, and bushes, and have an excellent though thin 
 soil. Inland of their crests the trees commence, and their tops reaching above the summits of 
 the hills increase their apparent height. The inshore slope of the hills is more gentle, so that 
 paths can be easily carried to their tops. In 1851 we opened an ox-team road to the summit 
 of the cape. When the evening fogs from the northern bays do not cover the cape, we have 
 sometimes experienced a dense fog rolling down the river about sunrise, enveloping everything 
 below the top of the cape upon which we have stood, when it looked like an island less than a 
 hundred yards in extent, and surrounded by the river fog, that must be felt to be appreciated. 
 We were 35 days on this cape before obtaining a single night's observations. 
 
 As seen from the southward, when oif Tillamook Head, Cape Disappointment is made as two 
 round-topped islands; approached from the northwest it rises in a similar manner; from the 
 west and southwest it appears projected upon the mountains inland, but the slightest haziness 
 in the atmosphere brings it out in sharp relief. 
 
 This cape being basaltic, and showing an almost iron front to the river and sea, it is impro- 
 bable that, "in the memory of many. Cape Disappointment has been worn away some hundred 
 feet by the sea and strong currents that run by it." 
 
 On the first landing beach on the inside of the cape we found a deposit of auriferous and 
 ferruginous "black sand," the flakes of gold being very small and scarce. This ferruginous 
 deposit — the "black sand" of the California gold digger — caused a local disturbance in the 
 magnetic variation, amounting to 26'. 2, being that quantity less than the declination found 
 upon the summit of the cape. 
 
 CAPE DISAPPOINTMENT LIGHT-HOUSE. 
 
 The light-house is not upon the top of the cape, but upon a spur a little to the west of the 
 southeast point, and about 95 feet below the highest part. The tower is whitewashed, placed 
 192 feet above the level of the sea, and being 40 feet in height and projected against a dark 
 green background shows well in daylight. 
 
 The light is a fixed white light, of the first order of Fresnel; was first exhibited October 15, 
 
 1856, and shows from sunset to sunrise. Under a favorable state of the atmosphere it should 
 
 be seen from a height of — 
 
 10 feet at a distance of 21 miles. 
 
 20 " " 22^ " 
 
 30 " " 23| " 
 
 60 " " 26J " 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 93 
 
 Its jjoogruphical position, na dutcrmined by the Coast Survey, is: 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude ■ 4G 16 32.7 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 02 13 west. 
 
 A. m. «. 
 
 Or, ill time 8 16 08.9 
 
 Magnetic variation 20° 45' oast, in July, 1851, with a yearly increase of 1'.4. 
 Counting round seaward from the soutli, it commands a horizon of about 135 degrees, that 
 is, from S.SE. to W.NW.; so that vessels coming from tlio northward cannot see the light until 
 nearly in the latitude of the river. Placed on the top of the cape, it could have been easily 
 made to show over the northwest part of it, and would also have commanded the entire river 
 and Baker's bay. 
 
 From Cape Disappointment we have the following bearings and distances of objects to the 
 northward : 
 
 Point Grenville NW. by N. J N., 62 miles. 
 
 Destruction island NW. by N., 84 " 
 
 Flattery rocks NW. | N., 118 " 
 
 The last lino passes tangent to the coast in latitude 47=" 58', where there are two well marked 
 rocks, which will be hereafter described. 
 
 Fog-bell at Cape Disappointment. 
 
 A fog-bell of 1,600 pounds has been placed on the bluff in advance of the light-tower, and will 
 be sounded during foggy or other thick weather night and day. The distinctive mode of striking 
 we have not yot found published. The machinery is on a level with the ground, in a frame 
 building, whitewashed, and with the front open to receive the bell. 
 
 The primary astronomical station of the Coast Survey is on the highest part of the southern 
 extremity of the cape. Its geographical position is: 
 
 Latitude 46 16 35.2 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 02 01 west. 
 
 A. m. (. 
 
 Or, in time 8 16 08. 1 
 
 From Cape Blanco to Cape Disappointment the extent of ocean shore line is not less than 
 285 miles. 
 
 In August^ 1775, this cape was placed by Heceta in latitude 46° 17', and called Cape San 
 Roque. 
 
 In July, 1788, it was called Capo Disappointment by Meares, and placed in latitude 46° 10' 
 "by an indifferent observation." It was called Cape Hancock by Gray, in 1792, and the 
 entrance placed in latitude 46° 17'; he, however, changed this name to Disappointment upon 
 hearing that Meares had so named it. 
 
 In 1792 it was placed in latitude 46° 19' by Vancouver. 
 . On the Pacific coast it is and has been kno^^ni by no other name than Cape Disappointment. 
 
 The Indian name for the cape is Kah-eese. 
 
 THE ENTRANCE TO THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 The entrance to this, the great river of the Pacific coast, is 5 miles wide between the nearest 
 parts of Cape Disappointment and Point Adams, bearing S. 584° R. and N. 58,J° W. from each 
 
94 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 other; but the passage is badly obstructed by shifting shoals that lie 2 or 3 miles outside of the 
 line joining the points. The numerous surveys that have been made of this river prove so 
 conclusively the great changes which the channels through the shoals undergo that wo shall 
 not attempt to give any directions concerning the present nortli and south channels. The best 
 advice we can offer is, when up with the bar, wait for a pilot. The mail and coasting steamers 
 enter the south channel (October, 1857,) parallel and close to the beach south of Point Adams, 
 but with a heavy swell from the westward they roll very much after rounding the point. In 
 heavy weather some of them prefer entering the north channel, although it gives a detour of 
 some miles, but the bar has, and always has had, more water upon it than that at the south 
 channel, and does not change its position as much, from the unwearing nature of the cape. 
 Sailing vessels cannot beat into the south channel against the summer winds blowing from the 
 northwest, but almost invariably come out through it. The heavily laden vessels of the Hudson 
 Bay Company have always used the north channel. 
 
 During heavy weather, and especially in winter, the sea breaks with terrific fury from north- 
 west of Cape Disappointment well to the southward of Point Adams; and we remember the 
 mail steamer trying for 60 hours to find the smallest show of an opening to get in. Sailing 
 vessels have laid off the entrance 6 weeks, waiting for a fair opportunity to enter, and many lie 
 inside for weeks trying to get out. The mail steamer, meanwhile exerting all her power, would 
 drive through the combers, having her deck swept fore and aft by every sea. Few places 
 present a scen^ of more wildness than this bar during a southeast gale, contrasting strongly 
 with many times during the summer, when not a breaker is seen to mai'k the outline of the 
 shoalest spot. From the summit of Cape Disappointment we have often watched the bar in 
 varied states of wind and weather, and crossed it when calm and breaking. What is most 
 needed here is a powerful propeller tug, which the amount of trade would assuredly warrant, 
 when we know that the much smaller trade of Humboldt bay supports handsomely a tug for 
 that bar. In bad weather the pilot boats cannot venture out, but a steamer might; and the 
 mail steamers, to avoid delay, now regularly carry a bar pilot with them. 
 
 During the season of freshets, about June, the pilots say that the river brings down such a 
 vast body of water that they can frequently take up for use fresh water upon the bar. 
 
 When off the entrance in fine, clear weather, the beautiful snow peak of Mount St. Helens* 
 shows over the lowest part of the land inside, and apparently in the mictdle of the river valley. 
 It is very regular in outline, and presents a pyramidal appearance, having a base equal to either 
 side. It is over 75 miles eastward from the entrance to the river, and attains an estimated 
 elevation of 12,000 feet. It is volcanic, and occasionally discharges volumes of smoke. 
 
 On October 22, 1792, Vancouver reported having seen several water spouts off the entrance, 
 and that some of them passed quite near his ships. 
 
 The current. — In October, 1851, whilst lying at anchor in the south channel off Sandy island, 
 we measured the strength of the ebb current, and found it to be nearly b^ miles per hour. 
 
 Tides. — At Astoria the corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the 
 moon's transit and the time of high water is XII/*. XLIIr?i. The mean rise and fall of tides is 6. 1 
 feet; of spring tides, 7.4 feet; and of neap tides, 4.6 feet. The mean duration of the flood is 
 6/t. 3m. ; of the ebb, 6/i. 28m. ; and of the stand, OA. 33m. The average difference between 
 the corrected establishments of the a. m. and p. m. tides of the same day is Ih. 02m. for high 
 water and 07*. 52??i. for low water. The differences when the moon's declination is greatest 
 
 '-'Named hv Vancouver in 1792. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SUBVEY. 98^ 
 
 aro lA. 38m. anJ l/i. 15m. respectively. The avornpc difference in lioi^ht of tliosc two tides ia 
 1.4 foot for the higli waters and 2.3 foot for the low waters. When the moon's declination i« 
 greatest those differences aro 1.9 foot and 3.7 feet respectively. The average difference of 
 the highest high and lowest low waters of the same day is 7.9 feet, and when the moon's decli- 
 nation is greatest, 8.9 feet. The highest high tide in the twenty-four hours occurs about 
 12A. Mm. after the moon's upper transit, (southing,) when the moon's declination is north, and 
 about Oh. I5m. before, when south. The lowest of the low waters occurs about 7J hours after 
 the highest high water. At Capo Disappointment it is high or low water about 40m. earlier 
 than at Astoria. 
 
 The discovery of the river mul chawjes tn the channel. — The discoverer of this river was Bruno 
 Heceta, commanding the Spanish ship Santiago. On the 15th of August, 1775, he was off the 
 entrance of a great river or inlet^ which he called Enscfiada de Asuncion, (Assumption inlet;) 
 but in the charts afterwards published in Mexico it was denominated Enseflada de Heceta and 
 the Rio de San Roque. 
 
 In July, 1788, Meares sought an anchorage under Cape San Roque, and finding the breakers 
 barring his progress, applied the name Deception bay to the mouth of the river; and, doubtless 
 to vent his pique upon the Spaniards for the ill treatment he had received at their hands, 
 WTote: "We can now safely assert that there is no such stream as that of Sjiint Roc existing, 
 as laid down in the Spanish charts; to those of Maurello we made continual references, but 
 without receiving any information or assistance from them." 
 
 In April, 1792, Vancouver sought for this river, but finding a great line of breakers before 
 him, very wisely did not attempt to pass through them. On the 29th of that month ho spoke 
 the Columbia of Boston, commanded by Captain Gray, who informed him that he had laid off 
 the mouth of a river in latitude 46° 10', where the outset or reflux was so strong that for nine 
 days he was prevented from entering; whereas Vancouver, having passed this position on the 
 27th, wrote on that day "that if any inlet or river should bo found, it must bo a very intricate 
 one, and inaccessible to vessels of our burden, owing to the reefs and broken water." 
 
 On the 11th of May, 1792, about noon. Captain Gray's log states, that "being a little to the 
 windward of the entrance into the harbor, bore away and run in E.NE. between the breakers, 
 having from 5 to 7 fathoms water. When we came over the bar we found this to be a largo 
 river of fresh water, up* which we steered." Without knowing of any reliable chart by him, 
 we are of opinion that then there was but one channel, and that to the north of what is now 
 Sandy island. Ho evidently came upon the entrance after very favorable weather, becjiuso ho 
 not only passed over the bar between the breakers with all sail set, but had only made 6 leagues 
 between daylight ^d noon. He remained 8 or 9 dajs in the river, made a rough sketch as far 
 as Tongue Point or Gray's bay, and named the river after his ship, calling it the " Columbia's 
 river. " 
 
 In October, 1792, Vancouver tried to enter the river with the Discovery, but failing, on 
 account of the bad state of the bar, ho ordered Lieut. Broughton, in the armed tender Ghat- 
 liam, to enter, which he did three days afterwards, and tlien commenced a survey of the river, 
 carrying it forward iq boats to Point Vancouver, in latitude 45° 27', and returning to his vessel 
 in ten days. He considered the widest part of the river for 25 miles as an inlet. This is the 
 first reliable survey wo have of the river. Gray's eye sketch, which extended to about Gray's 
 bay, showed 3G miles from Capo Disappointment, whereas it is only IG, following the course 
 of the northern channel by the most recent surveys. After crossing the bar the Chatham 
 
96 REPORT OP THE SUPERINTENDENT OP 
 
 anchored in 4 fathoms, 1^ mile E. by S. | S. from the eastern part of Cape Disappointment. 
 Within a cable's length of the ship the sea broke very heavily on the western end of a shoal 
 called the Spit Bank, the southern edge of which stretched about E. by N. in a direct line to 
 Cliinook Point* behind which rises Scarborough MUi destitute of trees and covered with fern- 
 Well up in Baker's hay,X north of the cape, he gives soundings in 3, 5, and 7 fathoms within 
 less than a mile from the shore. From Cape Disappointment the southern edge of an outside 
 shoal extended about 1^ mile SW. by S., stretched W.SW. nearly 2 miles, then trended 
 N.NW. parallel to the outer beach. A great shoal occupied the whole middle part of the 
 river east of Point Adams. Its northern edge ran parallel with and half a mile from the shore 
 between Gray's Point and Ellis' Point, § there being from 7 to 14 fathoms in the channel 
 between it and the shore. From Ellis' Point it then stretched in nearly a straight line to 
 within a mile of Point Adams, where the tail of it had but 2 fathoms; thence curved to the 
 SE. about a mile, and stretched in a long curve to Tongue Poi'wi, || keeping about three-quarters 
 of a mile from the shore abreast of Point George, 5 miles from Point Adams; and in the channel 
 between it and the shore he gives from 3 to 7 fathoms. Starting half a mile inside of Point 
 Adams and stretching over to the tail of the above shoal was a bar, having but 3 fathoms 
 upon it. 
 
 From Point Adams the northern edge of the breakers stretched seaward, first, W. ^ N. 
 about 3| miles; next, SW. by W. \ W. about 5 miles; then took a rounding course to the 
 southward, extending along the coast at a distance of nearly 8 miles. From this point of 
 view (Adams) the north and south breakers were so shut in with each other as to present an 
 entire line of heavy broken water across the channel, which was about \\ mile wide at the 
 narrowest part, and having not less in any place than 4 fathoms. The outer line of 5 fathoms 
 off the bar bore SW. by W. 5 j miles from Cape Disappointment. 
 
 This channel permitted the heavy western swell to roll in over the bar, and break upon the 
 shoal stretching between Point Adams and Point Ellis. The directions given by Broughton 
 for entering are: to bring Tongue Point, which looks like an island near the southern shore 
 of the river, to bear about E. by N. and then steer for it; crossing the bar in 4 and 5 fathoms. 
 
 In stating the distances above, we should mention that Broughton gives the course from 
 Disappointment to Adams as SE. by E. and the distance about 4 miles, whereas it is really 5 
 miles. Making this change in his base, and all other positions in proportion, we find that Tongue 
 Point comes within half a mile of the determination by the ti-iangulation of the survey; proving 
 Broughton' s work right but the base wrong. 
 
 From the foregoing description we deduce the following facts: That but one channel existed 
 at the entrance to the Columbia river in 1792; its general direction across the bar was E. by 
 N. I N. passing 1^ mile south of Cape Disappointment; it was 6 miles long from the outer 5 
 fathoms curve to a line joining Point Adams and the cape; it was \\ mile wide, and having 
 not less than 4 fathoms in it : That the Spit bank stretched nearly straight from about a mile 
 
 ~ Its present name, but called Village Point by Broughton, because he here found a large deserted village. He says the 
 natives called it Chenoke. 
 
 f Named after an employ^ of the Hudson Bay Company, who lived here and acted as pilot on the river at and since the 
 time of the United States Exploring Expedition. 
 
 % Named by Broughton after Mr. James Baker, commanding the schooner Jenny, of Bristol, which he found at anchor here 
 upon entering. 
 
 § So named on Belcher's survey of 1839 ; subsequent surveys call it Point Ellice. 
 
 II So named by Broughton. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 97 
 
 cast of the Cnpo to Chinook Point. In the space bounded by the 3 lines joininp capo Dinap- 
 pointmont, Chinook Point, and Point Adams, 5 fathoms water was the least found. The <k'epe8t 
 channel after getting in was close under the north side of the river eastwiird of Chinook Point, 
 and that, between the river side of Point Adams and the shoal stretching from Gray's Point 
 towards it, a narrow channel existed with 3 fathoms in it. 
 
 Broughton says: "The discovery of this river, wo were given to understand, is claimed by the 
 Spaniards, who call it Entrado do Ceta, after the commander of the vessel, who is said to bo 
 it« first discoverer, but who never entered it; ho places it in 46°." 
 
 After completing the survey he could not get out for several days, and the Jenny had been 
 unable to cross the bar, during the entire time he was up the river. 
 
 In 1813, when the English sloop-of-war Raccoon arrived in the Columbia she found the shoals 
 oflf the entrance had considerably changed in extent and position from the time of Broughton. 
 
 British Admiralty Svrvey in 1839. — In 1839 the entrance was surveyed by Sir Edward Belcher, 
 in the Sulphur, and remarkable changes had taken place. Between Cape Disappointment and 
 Point Adams a largo middle bank had formed, and near its eastern extremity a sandy island, 
 with a bank 1.J mile in extent, visible at low water and full of snags and trees. It« northwestern 
 point bore E.SE. 2| miles from Cape Disappointment, stretching on this course IJ mile further, 
 so that its eastern extremity, off which was deep water, bore N. J W. IJ mile from Point 
 Adams. This island and the bank naturally divided the waters of the river, the greater volume 
 running to the northward of the bank, through Belcher's channel, with 7 fathonre in it, and being 
 a mile wide \vithin the limits of the 3-fathom curves until it approached the cape, where it was 
 contracted to less than half a mile on a line E.SE. from the cape, but having increased its 
 depth to 16 fathoms. This channel had cut away the western end of Spit bank as laid down 
 by Broughton. From the cape, which it washed, this channel ran south for 2| miles with an 
 average depth of 7 fathoms, and being a mile wide within the 3-fathom curves; then it ran 
 SW. J W. for 2J miles to the bar, expanding in width and decreasing in depth, but in no place 
 giving less than 4 J fathoms upon the bar, which bore S.SW. from the cape, distant 4 miles, 
 and from Point Adams W. | S., distant 6 miles. In the northern angle, where the channel mado 
 the east turn, he has laid down a spot bare at low water with 7 fathoms close un^er it. From 
 the cape it bears S. by W. 2^ miles. 
 
 The main channel eastward of Sandy island was under Chinook and Ellis Points, having 
 deep water off them, but becoming shoaler and inlrricate beyond them. 
 
 Between this channel and the south shores lay the great shoal existing in 1792, not very 
 much changed in features, with a narrow channel running from Point Adams to Tongue Point, 
 having from 4J to 9 fathoms. 
 
 The west end of this shoal stretched out to the line joining Chinook Point with Point Adarlis, 
 about a mile from the latter, whilst between the tail of Sandy island and this shoal was a 
 channel half a mile wide, and having from 3.J to 4^ fathoms. Between Sandy island and 
 Point Adams ran Queen's channel*, contracting to half a mile wide within the 3-fathom curves, 
 one mile from Point Adams, gradually expanding and running in a general direction W. by S. 
 for 3J miles, when it divided into two — one running into the north channel through a narrow 4- 
 fathom cut. and the other continuing south, forming a south channel one-third of a mile wide, and 
 having 3J and 3J fathoms upon it. From Cape Disappointment it bore S, J E., distant 4 miles, 
 and from Point Adams W. by S. J S., 4 miles. Between the two bars, about 2 miles apart, lay 
 
 • Named by Belcher in ISSd. 
 13 
 
98 KEPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 an irregular shoal of small extent, having 2§ fathoms upon it. The joining of the north and 
 Queen's channels enabled a vessel to have a 4-fathom channel south of Sandy island, with a 
 leading wind in summer time, while the north was a beating channel. 
 
 A spot, bare at low water, existed Ij mile from Point Adams; its northern extremity close 
 to Queen's channel, and bearing west from Point Adams. It stretched south half a mile, and 
 was nearly a quarter of a mile in Avidth. 
 
 It may not be out of place here to note that the channel on the south side of the river, east 
 of Tongue Point, now known as the Woody Island channel, and claimed as a recent discovery, is 
 clearly indicated by the soundings of Belcher. 
 
 By a comparison with the partial survey of 1792 very remarkable changes will be seen to 
 have taken place. The first is the formation of the great Middle Bank*, covering an extent of 4 
 square miles within the three-fathom curves, and part formed into an island occupying the track 
 which Broughton, and doubtless Gray and Baker, sailed over with five fathoms; the formation 
 of two channels: the bank on the SW. face of Cape Disappointment, stretching 1^ mile south- 
 ward of its old limit, and almost crossing the only channel of 1792; the existence of the Middle 
 Bank, within half a mile of the cape, and having but one fathom upon its northwest point, where 
 the Sulphur grounded, when Broughton states that he anchored 1^ mile B. by S. | S. from the 
 inner part of the cape, there being deep water between him and the cape, whilst the Spit bank, 
 which was within a cable' s length of his anchorage, and stretching to Chinook Point, had been 
 cut away by the broad Belcher channel; the cutting away of three miles of the western part of 
 the shoal off Point Adams, and the opening of the channel along the Clatsop beach and south 
 shore, past Point St. George and Tongue Point. 
 
 Belcher calls the bank S.SW. of the cape the Spit bank; and where Broughton' s Spit bank 
 joins Chinook Point, he designates it Chehalis spit. 
 
 In his narrative he remarks that ' ' the shoals in the entrance to this river have most materially 
 changed their features within the last two years." — (Vol. 1, p. 288.) 
 
 Survey of the United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. — In this survey we find but one opening 
 to the ocean with the north and south channels passing through it. The bar had 5 fathoms 
 upon it, and was nearly two square miles in extent, the water deepening and the channel 
 contracting after passing it. 
 
 From Cape Disappointment the bar bore SW. by S. | S., distant 4| miles; from Point Adams 
 W. by S., distant 65- miles; with the north shoal stretching south 2^ miles from the cape, and 
 the great south shoal nearly W.SW., 5 miles from Point Adams, having at the narrowest part 
 of the single entrance a breadth of a mile. 
 
 From the bar the course in for the north channel was E.NE. 2^ miles: then N. ^ W. i^ 
 miles to the inside of Cape Disappointment, after passing which the channel was wide, regular, 
 and deep for 4 miles, about E.SE., passing close by the north side of Sandy island. 
 
 From the bar the course for the south channel was E. by N. ^ N. for .6 j miles, running 
 within three-quarters of a mile of Point Adams; thence along the Clatsop beach in a good, 
 wide channel. 
 
 The Middle Bank was nearly triangular, with one point abreast of Cape Disappointment; the 
 second 1\ mile north of Point Adams; and the third at the meeting of the channels inside the 
 bar. Each side was three miles long; Sandy island was then composed of two, the eastern end 
 of the larger and southern one bearing N.NW. \\ mile from Point Adams. 
 
 » Named by Belcher in 1839. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 
 
 99 
 
 Tho western tail of tbo great middle shoal, east of Point Adams, bore from that point about 
 N.NE., a little over a mile distant, and in range to Chinook Point. 
 
 The reduced map of the survey of tho United States Exploring Expedition, on an English 
 chart, shows the distance from Cape Disappointment to Point Adams as only 4) miles, with the 
 bearing SE. by E. J E. Our measurements above are made upon a scale representing that distance 
 as almost 5 miles, according to a recent triangulation. 
 
 The changes that had taken place since Belcher's survey, 2 years previous, were: that the 
 south sands had stretched westward over the entrance of Queen's or south channel; and that 
 channel had joined with the north and emptied over one bar, which was almost identical in 
 position and extent with the survey of 1839. It had, however, moved about a third of a mile 
 to the southward. 
 
 The north channel was, therefore, little changed; its general direction was the same; it had at 
 least a fathom more than the south channel, and retained the same shape and direction after 
 passing inside the cape. 
 
 The contour and position of the Middle Bank was nearly the same, but its eastern point had 
 moved nearly half a mile to the NWl, giving deep water where Belcher placed the eastern part 
 of Sandy island, whilst the western islet occupied nearly the same position as formerly. 
 
 The western extremity of the great middle shoal, east of Point Adams, was hardly changed. 
 
 The course in over the bar, and through Queen's or the south channel, was straight for over 
 6 miles to abreast of Point Adams, and then ran in the same direction a.s in 1839. 
 
 The United States sloop-of-war Peacock was lost on the north shoals, under Cape Disappoint- 
 ment. 
 
 SUBVET OP 1850. 
 
 This, the first examination by the Coast Survey, was undertaken under peculiar difficulties, 
 which were successfully overcome. 
 
 In this survey we find the formation of a new south entrance, but evidently of so rec^pnt date 
 that the bar at the entrance cannot be said to have over 16 feet upon it, although two very 
 narrow passages on either side of the middle ground of the bar give 3 fathoms. From Point 
 Adams this bar bore SW., distant 3J miles, being S.SE. 5^ miles from Cape Disappointment 
 light-house. Inside the entrance, within the 3-fathom curve, the width of the channel was 
 half a mile, increasing to over a mile, and the depth of water regularly increasing to 14 fathoms 
 off" Clatsop spit, IJ mile from Point Adams, on aline to Cape Disappointment. The direction 
 of the channel was straight, N. by E. i E. to Sandy island, rounding Clatsop spit, and running 
 close to and parallel with the beach east of Point Adams, with a depth of from 4 to 8 fathpms. 
 From the outside of the bar the south edge of the south shoal stretched toward the shore, tho 
 bottom changing from hard sand to soft mud in approaching the beach. 
 
 The extent of the north bar had so much increased that it is difficult to describe, for it had 
 an area of over two square miles, with from 4 to 5J fathoms upon it, and the bottom varying 
 from hard sand to soft mud. Tho middle of it lay south 3J miles from the highest part of the 
 cape. Within the 3-f^thom curve the entrance was IJ mile wide, and in ordinary weather 
 was marked by a line of breakers on either side. Tho course was nearly straight to the inner 
 point of the cape, with the depth of water increasing to 11 fathoms abreast of it, where tlie 
 channel wa.s a little over a third of a mile wide, with tho Sulphur spit on the east side. Passing 
 the cape, and turning eastward and then E.SE., the 3-fathom channel was crooked, and in one 
 place only 400 yards wide. 
 
100 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 The two bars bore from each other SE. by B. and NW. by W., and their distance apart was 
 2y miles, with the seaward extremity of the Middle Bank in line between them. 
 
 The Middle Bank between the north and south channel was about a mile wide, and regular 
 up to the cape, except the off-shoot to connect with Sandy island, which bore E. by S. J S. 3J 
 miles from Disappointment, and NW. | N., two miles from Adams. N.NE. from it the Chinook 
 shoal stretched southward within less than a mile. 
 
 The western tail of the great Middle Bank, east of Point Adams, lay NE. | N. 1| mile from 
 that point. • 
 
 The channels north and south of this bank had changed very much, but to them we shall not 
 again refer. 
 
 We note the following changes since the survey of 1841: 
 
 That the south sands, then stretching 6 miles westward from Point Adams, had been cut 
 through at a point half their distance out by a wide channel, with deep water, running S. by W. 
 from Sandy island, but the bar of this channel was not yet fairly cut through, having less than 
 3 fathoms upon it. This channel was therefore running at right angles to the one of 1841, and 
 over the very spot marked bare in 1839. 
 
 That the north channel retained the same general features, but had moved to the southward; 
 its southern part cutting away over a mile of the west end of the south sands of 1841. It still 
 had over a fathom more water than the south channel. Inside of Cape Disappointment it 
 retained the same general direction as in 1839 and 1841, but was more contracted. 
 
 That the Middle Bank was much changed, but its northern portion similar to that of the two 
 previous surveys. The eastern point had moved N.NW. three-quarters of a mile since 1841. 
 Sandy island had much increased in size, and apparently moved with it. 
 
 That a long sand bank had made out over a mile NW. from Point Adams, and was called the 
 Clatsop spit. 
 
 That the western tail of the great Middle Bank, east of Point Adams, had been cut away 
 three-quarters of a mile. 
 
 SURVEY OF 1852. 
 
 This was the second examination by the United States Coast Survey, founded upon a complete 
 triangulation and the topography of Point Adams, Sandy island, and Cape Disappointment. 
 
 Two channels remained as in 1850. The south had become more defined, having 3^ fathoms 
 across the bar, which was three-quarters of a mile wide, and the general direction of the 
 channel N. ^ W. From Point Adams it bore SW. | S., distant 3j miles, and from Cape 
 Disappointment S. SE., 5| miles. It was 2^ miles distant from the beach south of Point 
 Adams. 
 
 The north channel was S. ^ W., 3 miles from the cape, and W. | S., 4^ miles from Point 
 Adams ; it had 4^ fathoms upon it toward the southern side, and its width was three-quarters 
 of a mile. The midchannel course for 1^ mile was NE. by N., then N. by W. towards the 
 cape, turning to the east half a mile before reaching it, and after a mile on this coarse 
 running E. SB. past the north side of Sandy island ; or, continuing past the cape within a 
 quarter of a mile, then steering E.NB. one mile, in from 8 to 5 fathoms, changing to SE. by 
 E. through a 3-fathom channel, past the NE. side of Sandy island. The old Spit bank of 1192 
 had made out half a mile nearer the cape than then existing, but having a 3-fathom channel 
 across it. 
 
TH£ UNITEU STATES UOAST SURVEY. 101 
 
 The north and south bars bore from each other SE. and NW., distant 3 J miles apart, with 
 the seaward face of the Middle Bank making a direct lino on that course. This bank had 
 changed its contour and wa» very irregular. 
 
 W.SW. of Sulphur spit a 3-fathom channel had nearly cut through the north sands. Should 
 a channel open here it would doubtless remain a reliable one. From Cape Disappointment it 
 bore SW. J W., IJ mile distant. 
 
 Sandy island bore £. by S. | S., 3 miles from the cape, and NW. ^ N. 2 miles from Point 
 Adams. 
 
 The western tail of the great Middle Bank bore NE. by N. ^ N., a mile from Point Adams. 
 
 At the time of this survey the channels were buoyed out, but subsequent gales have dis- 
 placed the buoys. 
 
 We note the following changes since the survey of 1850, a little over two years: 
 
 That the new south channel had been developed, and the bar moved three-quarters of a 
 mile eastward, with half a fathom more water and the entrance wider. 
 
 That the north channel had contracted to half its width at the bar, with its northern line 
 upon the line of 1850; the depth of water not quite as great, but having still a fathom more 
 than the south bar ; the channel not as straight, and the formation of a swash channel SW. of 
 the cape across the north sands. 
 
 That the Spit bank of 1792 was being redeveloped. 
 
 That the Middle Bank had increased in size, and Sandy island moved over a quarter of a 
 mile W.NW., giving 8 fathoms of water where the beacon of 1850 stood, and the bifurcation 
 of the bank, bare at low water, west of it. Compared with the surveys of 1839 and 1841, we 
 find that ono part of Sandy island has retained the same position, but that a mile, stretching 
 E. by S. J S., has been completely cut away, and is now crossed by the south channel. 
 
 That the Clatsop spit has changed its shape, trending more to the westward. 
 
 And that the western tail of the great Middle Bank, east of Point Adams, occupies the 
 position of 1839 and 1841. 
 
 No survey has been made subsequent to that of 1852, but we can state, from personal 
 observation, that in October, 1857, the south bar was within less than a mile of the beach 
 south of Point Adams, and that the channel ran nearly parallel with, and not distant more 
 than three-quarters of a mile from the shore. It was unavailable with a very heavy sea on, 
 as a vessel had to run it in the trough of the sea, and for sailing with a NW. wind it was a 
 dead beat. We entered^ the north channel in May, 1857, and found it wide and straight. It 
 was reported to have one fathom more water oq. the bar than the south. Those of the 
 old buoys that remained were of no use, on account of having been carried from their proper 
 stations. 
 
 Condustons. — From all these examinations, aided by plotting the outlines upon the same sheet 
 and to the same scale, from corroborative evidence, and from personal observation, we find 
 that the south point of the north sands stretching out from Cape Disappointment has remained 
 nearly the same since 1839, bearing S. | W. from the light-house, distant 2J miles ; has not 
 varied its position half a mile ; has never reached the southern shoal of 1792 ; and that the bar 
 has never had less than 4 fathoms upon it, thereby indicating that this entrance and channel 
 is the less changeable, and has a fathom more water than the other, and that, with well 
 appointed buoys oflF its entrance and range beacons on Sandy island and Chinook Point or 
 Scarborough Hill, it will always prove the safer and4>ctter for the interests of the country. 
 
102 EEPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 The position of the south enti'ance is continually changing, and the same causes that closed 
 it between 1839 and 1841 will again close it. 
 
 The formation of Sandy island precludes the probability of the channel returning to the 
 capacity which existed at the period of Brough ton's survey in 1792. 
 
 The great Middle Bank, stretching from Point Ellis nearly to Point Adams, remains almost the 
 same since its first determination. 
 
 Hydrographic sketches of the entrance to the Columbia river were issued from the Coast 
 Survey Office in 1850 and 1851. 
 
 POINTS INSIDE OF COLUMBIA RIVER ENTRANCE. 
 
 Sandy Island, (1851.) It is about one-third of a mile long, E.NE. and "W.SW., by 250 yards 
 in width, and consists of loose sand raised a few feet above the river, and covered with drift 
 logs, trees, &c. To the westward of it extend two sand bars nearly a mile in length, and bare 
 at low water. The surveys of 1839, '41, '50, and '52 show that this part of the Middle Bank 
 has occupied one position, and will doubtless retain it. In 1792 the main channel of the river 
 passed over this position, and a line of soundings in 5 fathoms ran across it. Considering the 
 immense amount of huge trees coming yearly down the river, we can readily imagine a theory 
 for its formation. A large beacon erected upon it, distinguishable outside the bar, and ranging 
 with another on Scarborough Hill, would serve to denote the position of the north channel. 
 
 From Cape Disappointment light-house it bears E. by S. ^ S., distant 3^ miles. 
 
 It received its present name from Belcher in 1839. On the Coast Survey charts it is called 
 Sand island. 
 
 Chinook Point lies N. by E. 2| miles from Point Adams, and E. \ N. 4| miles from Cape 
 Disappointment. It is a long, low sand strip at the base of the high wooded hills behind it. 
 One of the hills, called Scarborough, is readily recognized by a great part of its southern slope 
 being destitute of trees and covered with fern ; no other hill near this vicinity possesses this 
 peculiar feature. 
 
 A number of fishing and Indian huts are situated upon the Chinook beach, the people being 
 engaged in catching and curing salmon, with which the waters abound. The mode of catching 
 them is by means of nets; those of Indian construction being made of twine spun from the 
 fibres of the spruce roots, and sometimes from a peculiar grass obtained from northern coast 
 Indians. The mode of curing is very rude and inefficient, and thousands of barrels that have 
 been shipped have proved worthless. There is no reason why this should not become a large 
 and profitable branch of business. The fish are the largest on the coast, often exceeding 80 
 pounds weight. We have purchased them weighing between 50 and 60, caught upon the beach at 
 the sea base of Cape Disappointment. They commence to run about the end of May, and 
 become remarkably plentiful by the third week in June. The Indians suppose that the salmon, 
 coming directly from the ocean, linger about the entrance several weeks before starting up the 
 river, because they require time to become accustomed to the fresh waterj attributing to a 
 wrong cause this normal habit of the salmon. 
 
 Chinook Point was the special location of the once powerful tribe of Chinook Indians, and 
 here the celebrated one-eyed chief, Concomly, held sway. The tribe has dwindled to less than 
 a hundred persons — men, women, and children — and they are poor, miserable, drunken, diseased 
 wretches. 
 
 The point was called Village Point by Bfoughton in 1792. 
 
THE DOTTED STATES COAST SURVEY. 103 
 
 In 1839 it was called Chenoke Point by Belcher. The Indian name is Ndse-to-ilse. 
 
 Foinl Ellis is 2J miles, nearly, oast of Chinook Point; the sand beach between the two being 
 in some places nearly a mile wide, running at the bastfof the hills and surrounding a largo 
 lagoon near Chinook. From Point Adams it bears NE., distant 4^ miles. 
 
 Behind Point Ellis rise two hills, the southern of which is used as a range with Point Adams 
 for denoting the entrance to the south channel, but of course the relative positions vary with 
 every change of the bar. 
 
 It was called Ellis Point by Belcher in 1839, and Point Ellico by the United States Exploring 
 Expedition in 1841, and this spelling is found upon all recent maps. 
 
 The Indian name is No-wchtl-kai-ilse. 
 
 Astor Point lies E. | N., distant 5| miles from Point Adams. It is low at the river bank, 
 but has moderately high wooded land behind it. The southern channel passes close to it. The 
 name is derived from a Coast Survey triangulatiou and secondary astronomical station upon it, 
 but it is in reality a part of Point George. 
 
 The geographical position of the station, which is about a quarter of a mile westward of the 
 bay, in front of the town, is — 
 
 O I H ' 
 
 Latitude 46 11 27.6 north. 
 
 Longitude 123 49 32 west. 
 
 A. m. t. 
 
 Or, in time 8 15 18.1. 
 
 Foint George is the first point made after passing eastward of Clatsop beach. Immediately be- 
 hind it the land is high and densely wooded; and around its southern face opens Young's river. 
 
 It was called "Point George" by Broughton in 1792; "George Point" by Belcher in 1839; 
 "Young's Point" by the United States Exploring Expedition in 1841; "Smith's Point" by the 
 Coast Survey, in the triangulation of 1852; but it is, we believe, generally known as Young' s Point. 
 
 Tongue Point bears E. NE. 8 J miles from Point Adams, and NE. J E., 3 J miles from 
 Astor Point. * It is a high, bold bluflf covered with trees, and connected with the main by a 
 moderately low, narrow, strip of land. As first made, ofi" the entrance, it appears like a low 
 wooded island. Close to it runs the Woody Island channel, which is plainly foreshadowed in 
 Belcher's survey of the river. Between the last two points lie the rival villages of Upper and 
 Lower Astoria. The lower is the most western, and on the location established by the Pacific 
 Fur Company in 1811, and to which was given the name of Astoria. A large saw-mill is in 
 operation here, and a military post was established but abandoned a few years since. The 
 place contains less than fifty houses, and at one time, as a landing place, had an unenviable 
 reputation on account of the character of the "beach combers." 
 
 The name of the place was changed to Fort George in 1813, on being taken by the sloop-of- 
 war Raccoon. The original name was restored in 1818. 
 
 At Upper Astoria is located the custom-house, ofi" which is the rendezvous of the United 
 States revenue cutter. A large saw-mill is built here; and a •government military road is being 
 opened to Salem, on the Willamette river. Between the village and Tongue Point lies the 
 wreck of the Silvie de Grace. 
 
 Cape Broughton is on the north side of the river, N. NW.'3| miles from Tongue Point, and 
 NE. i E. 5J miles from Ellis Point. 
 
 It was named by Belcher in 1839, but was called Gray's Point by the United States Exploring 
 Expedition. This last designation was also applied by the Coast Survey in 1852. 
 
104 BEPOET OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 The head between Ellis Point and Cape Broughton was named Chatham Head in 1839. 
 
 Gray's Bay lies to the NE. of Cape Broughton, and was named, in 1792, in honor of Captain 
 Gray. • 
 
 Young's Bay lies between the eastern part of the Clatsop beach (called Tansey Point) and 
 Point George. Into it empty Young's river, discovered, examined, and named by Broughton; 
 Lewis and Clarke's river, examined by them in 1805; and one or two small streams or sloughs. 
 
 Baker's Bay lies between Cape Disappointment and Chinook Point. It runs 2^ miles to the 
 northward of the cape, and receives the waters of the small streams which head toward Shoal- 
 water bay, and connect with it by a small portage. The western and largest stream is the 
 Wal-la-khut ; the eastern, half-way between the cape and Chinook Point, is the Wap-pa-loo- 
 che. 
 
 Two or three houses on the shore of the bay, and a saw-mill, are all that remain of the set- 
 tlement once designated as "Pacific City." The bay was named in honor of Captain Baker, 
 whom Broughton found anchored here in the schooner Jenny, of Bristol, when he entered. 
 
 The Columbia river was called the " Oregon" on the strength of the accounts of Carver in 
 1766. Much doubt exists as to the origin of the name last mentioned. 
 
 In 1775 it was called "Assumption Inlet" by Heceta, but afterwards the Rio de San Roque, 
 from his naming the northern cape San Roque; and also the EnseSada de Heceta. 
 
 In 1789 Meares called it "Deception Bay." 
 
 In 1792 it was named the " Columbia's river" by Gray. 
 
 Clarke says that, in 1805, the Indians knew it as the Shocatilcum, and another name obtained 
 from another body of the natives was Chockalilum; the two being evidently the same word 
 differently pronounced; the accent should be on the penult. 
 
 When the name given by Gray was first changed we cannot state. It was, perhaps, done by 
 Vancouver or Broughton. 
 
 Lewis and Clarke, in noticing the growth of trees on the Columbia, mention a fir near Asto- 
 ria that was 230 feet high, and 120 feet of that height without a branch. Its circumference 
 was 27 feet. This same tree is doubtless referred to in the narrative of the United States Ex- 
 ploring Expedition, where the dimensions are given as follows : 39^ feet in circumference at 8 
 feet above the ground; bark 11 inches thick; height of the tree 250 feet and perfectly straight. 
 Visiters used to be shown ' ' the big tree ' ' as one of the notable sights of the locality. 
 
 Belcher says that "the timber of the Columbia, either for spars or plank, cannot be compared 
 to that of higher latitudes; for topmasts and topgallant masts it is probably as tough, but 
 heavier. * * * * Probably no part of Western America can produce timber 
 
 of the dimensions grown in the regions of the Columbia and the northern confines of Califor- 
 nia. Amongst the drift trees, on the banks of the Columbia, we measured one 174 feet long 
 by 20 feet in circumference, and many 150 feet by 13 to 18. These, of course, were washed 
 from the banks, and therefore not the largest, which grow invariably in the thickest part of the 
 wood."— (Vol. 1, p. 300.) 
 
 In Baker's bay, in 1851, we measured a drift tree which had been thrown upon the beach. 
 It was 267 feet long, 27 feet in circumference with the bark peeled ofi". and where broken at 
 the small end 20 inches in diameter. Very frequently, when trees are felled for cutting into 
 lumber, the first 30 or 40 feet of the trunks are found too large for the saw-mill, and have to 
 be cut off and left on the ground. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 8UKVEY. 106 
 
 GENERAL COURSE OF THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 
 
 Prom the entrance to the mouth of the Cowlitz river the general course of the Columbia is 
 E. by N., and the distance in a straight lino 46 miles from the bar, and by the windings of the 
 river about 62 miles. The Cowlitz runs N.NW., and is navigated by canoes about 15 miles to 
 the Cowlitz Landing. At this place travellers take mules or horses to go through to Puget's 
 Sound, a trip of 50 miles. On the west bank of the Cowlitz are a few small houses, locally 
 known as the town of Monticello. On the south bank of the Columbia, opposite the Cowlitz, 
 is another small settlement, called Rainier. 
 
 From the Cowlitz the next course of the Columbia is SE. | S. for 27 miles to the mouth of 
 the Willamette riveri'/^bout IG'miles above the Cowlitzy' tba Warrior branch or slough of the 
 river makes in from the west side and runs around Multnomah island, coming into the Willa- 
 mette two miles above its mouth. The Willamette continues the same general course of the 
 Columbia for 16 miles to the falls, where is situated the town of "Oregon City," destined to 
 become a place of importance, on account of the extensive water power; the river there falling 
 perpendicularly 38 or 40 feet. Six miles lower down on the Willamette is the rapidly improving 
 town of Portland, situated at the head of ship navigation, with a population of nearly 5, 000. 
 The valley of the Willamette is well settled, contains several thriving towns, and is remarkably 
 productive. The^ coqrae-o£-ti»o river is southward, gradually approaching the coast within 25 
 miles, ia tb» Ja ti t n d o of Cnpo Pcrpetua. In latitude 44° it runs eastward to the base of the 
 r»nrfldfi rnil£;n, which rrnrn between the snow peaks of Mount Jefferson and Mount McLauglilin. 
 
 From the mouth of the Willamette the general course of the Columbia to Fort Walla-Walla 
 is NE. by E. J E., 170 miles. 
 
 Five miles above the Willamette, on the north side, is the military post of Fort Vancouver, 
 
 which, with the town of Vancouver, covers part of the grounds formerly occupied by the 
 
 ^Budson Bay Company as a mercantile station, but then designated as Fort Vancouver. The 
 
 ^Hudson Bay Company still have a trading station here, but their farms and grazing lands have 
 
 been occupied by settlers. The site for a town is one of the most beautiful on the river, and 
 
 capitally located for increasing trade. 
 
 About 30 miles further up the river we reach the foot of the Cascades, which are a series of 
 rapids 4 miles long, where the river bursts through the eastern part of the Cascade range of 
 mountains, whose basaltic walls rise precipitously over 3,000 feet on either side, presenting a 
 magnificent sight. Below the rapids the current rushes by with great velocity and depth, but 
 small steamboats ply regularly from Portland and Vancouver to the foot of the rapids; thence 
 passengers are carried by stages to the head, where one or two fine steamboats convey them 
 50 miles to the Dalles. The Hudson Bay Company carried their large trading boats up the 
 rapids by a system called cordelling. Steamboats have gone up one or two miles, and, in one 
 instance, a brig, with every sail set and a moderate gale astern, was carried safely to the foot of 
 the railroad, which runs from the head to within a mile and a half of the lower end. At each 
 extremity of the rapids are small military posts. 
 
 The snow peaks of the volcanic Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Hood lie exactly in line with the 
 Cascades, the former NW. i N., 35 miles distant; the latter SE. J S., 28 miles distant. 
 
 At the Dalles the river is contracted between narrow perpendicular walls, and during freshets 
 rises 100 feet above its ordinary level. 
 
 * A oomiption of tho Indian Damo. ThU stream i« the Multooraah uf hewit and Clark. 
 14 
 
106 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 West of the Cascades the forests cease, and above the Dalles stands the only tree in a stretch 
 of 60 miles beyond Walla-Walla, where the river makes a great bend to the northward, in the 
 direction of its source at the base of the Rocky mountains. 
 
 On the lower part of the Columbia and Willamette many saw-mills have been erected since 
 the gold discovery in California, and a large trade was carried on in lumber. Between San 
 Francisco and Portland a very large and increasing general trade exists. 
 
 The weather off the Columbia entrance is cold and wet with occasional thunder storms, but 
 these are rare. Vancouver says he saw several water spouts off it in October, 1192, some of 
 them were quite near his vessel. 
 
 SHOALWATBB BAY. 
 
 The bold cliffs of Cape Disappointment, after extending about three miles northward, change 
 suddenly to a low, broad, sandy beach, running N. by W. ^ W. 18 miles, in nearly a straight 
 line to the southern point of the entrance to Shoalwater bay. A mile and a quarter behind 
 this beach lies the southern arm of the bay. Its waters reach within a mile or two of the north 
 side of the cape, and the portage from them to the Wappalooche, emptying into Baker's bay, 
 is said to be about a mile long, and always used by the Indians and settlers. The peninsula 
 thus formed is covered with trees and a dense undei'growth of bushes. Within half a mile of 
 its extremity it becomes very low and sandy, and has a covering of coarse grass but no trees. 
 This point was called Low Point by Meares in July, 1788. On the recent Coast Survey charts 
 it is named Leadbetter Point. The Indian designation is Chik-lis-ilh. Its appro^inate geo- 
 graphical position, as given by the Coast Survey, is: 
 
 O / II 
 
 Latitude 46 36 45 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 00 45 west. 
 
 h. m. s. 
 
 Or, in time 8 16 0.3. , 
 
 Magnetic variation 20° 35' east, July, 1851, with a yearly increase of 1'.4. 
 
 CAPE SHOALWATER. 
 
 From Leadbetter Point the north point bears NW. by N. § N., 5^ miles distant. Half a mile 
 of the point is low, sandy and destitute of trees, but some tolerably high land covered with 
 wood rises immediately behind it, being the only elevated ground between Cape Disappoint- 
 ment and Point Grenville that approaches the shore-line. On account of this formation of the 
 point it has been said that the entrance resembles that of Columbia river. We have been 
 unable to detect any resemblance after passing near to it several times. The isolated position 
 of Cape Disappointment and the seaward face of its bold cliffs without trees form a peculiar 
 feature. This, with Scarborough Hill, partly bare, lying 5 or 6 miles east of it, the high moun- 
 tains inland, and in clear weather the beautiful snow peak of Mount St. Helens, have no coun- 
 terparts at Cape Shoalwater, and, without mentioning the light-house, should remove all doubt 
 in regard to general resemblance. 
 
 The point was named Cape Shoalwater and placed approximately in latitude 46° 47' by Meares 
 in July, 1788. In 1792 Vancouver assigned the latitude of 46° 40'. It was viewed from the 
 north side of Cape Disappointment by Lewis and Clarke in 1805, and called Point Lewis, but 
 is now frequently known as Toke Point, from the name of an old Indian chief living here in 
 1854. The Indian name of the point is Quahpt-sum. 
 
THE UNITBll 8TATK8 COAST SUBVEY. Ifff 
 
 THE ENTRANCE. 
 
 There having been no Rurvey of Shoalwator bay previous to the preliminary one of the Coast 
 Survey in 1862, and the completion of it in 1855, it is impossible to state what changes have 
 taken place. Judging by the changes of the Humboldt, Umpquah and Columbia bars, we 
 should conclude that similar effects take place here. In less heavy weather than would cause 
 the sea to break on the Columbia river bars, it breaks here \vith fury quite across the entrance. 
 This description applies to 1852. Cliarts have been published by the Coast Survey of the 
 respective dates already mentioned. 
 
 Four miles off the entrance a depth of 10 fathoms is found, and when well off shore a high 
 double peaked mountain shows to the eastward, well inland; Meares noticed it and placed it in 
 latitude 46° 30', quite close to the coast, designating it as Saddle Mountain, a name it still retains 
 although one of the same name is found SE. of Point Adams. 
 
 At the present time there are two channels, denominated from their position, the north and 
 south ckcuuieU, with a' large shoal called the middle sands lying between them, and partly outside 
 of the line joining the two points. 
 
 The bar at the soulk channel has 4 fathoms of water upon it, is a mile wide, and lies two miles 
 off the beach south of Leadbetter Point, with the northernmost trees bearing NE. by E. Run- 
 ning in on this line a vessel shoals her water from 10 fathoms three miles off shore to 4 fathoms 
 two miles off ; then gradually deepens it to 5 fathoms, when she should haul close up under the 
 point of breakers northward of her and about half a mile distant; run along in from 6 to 7 
 fathoms until abreast of the low grassy point, when the course of the channel will be N. by W. 
 J W. for 1| mile, with from 8 to 10 fathoms, hard bottom, its outline being well marked by the 
 breakers outride. From thence a course NE. by N. for two miles will lead to 18 fathoms, and 
 over a mile inside of the lino joining Leadbetter Point and Cape Shoalwater, the western trees 
 on Leadbetter point bearing S. J E., 3| miles distant. If the tide is low, sand bars and flats 
 will show on both hands, one directly ahead; the broad deep channel to the SE. distinctly 
 marked by bare patches on either side; and a narrow, deep channel to the northwest running 
 into the north channel. From the last position the western trees on Leadbetter Point bear 
 south, distant 4 miles. The greater body of water passes through this channel, and the current 
 runs very strong. In summer, with a northwester blowing, it is a dead beat after passing the bar, 
 and in some places the channel is less than half a mile ^vide between the 3-fathom curves. Coasters 
 do not enter it except with a southerly wind, and always pick out the channel from aloft. In 
 summer they have a leading wind out, and start on the first of the ebb. 
 
 The bar at the north cliannd has about 3^ fathoms upon it, and bears SW. by S. J S. three 
 miles from the southern extremity of Cape Shoalwater. It is about a mile in extent within the 
 3-fathom curve. 
 
 In making the bay from the southward in summer work to the northward of Cape Shoal, 
 water, then run in and follow the shore outside of the breakers in 6 or 7 fathoms, gradually 
 approaching them and decreasing the depth to 4J and 4 fathoms, when the southern side of the 
 elevated ground of the capo bears NE. by N. J N. Then head up as near that course as possible, 
 crossing the bar in 3^ fathoms, and continuing in that depth for at least a mile and a quarter, 
 taking care not to decreaue it on either hand. Keep under the breakers on the north side in 
 from 5 to 7 fathoms, hard bottom, and increase the depth to twelve well inside of the point, 
 
108 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OP 
 
 when its southern extremity should bear NW. ^ W., distant 1^ mile. If it is low water, sand 
 banks will show in diiferent directions, and the channels will be tolerably well marked. 
 
 The present invariable practice of vessels entering is to seek out the channel from the mast 
 head. In calm weather the channels must be known or a pilot employed, if one is to be found. 
 
 The north bar bears NW. by N. | N., distant 5 miles. 
 
 The middle sands lie between the two channels. The southern tail is SW. 1| mile from 
 Leadbetter Point: runs NW. by N. § N. for 2^ miles; then N.NE. 2^ miles; and E.NE. 1^ mile, 
 with an average width of Ij mile. One mile outside of it soundings are found in 7 fathoms. 
 
 This bay, as its name implies, is so full of shoals that at low tides about one-half of its area 
 is laid bare. Good but narrow channels are found thoughout its extent, but no direction can 
 be given for running them. Without a knowledge of them, or without a pilot, follow them 
 only at low water. The currents then run with great velocity, and it is very difficult and 
 frequently impossible to keep a course against them. The arm stretching southward toward 
 Baker's bay is 15 miles long from Leadbetter Point, with an average width of not less than S^; 
 whilst the upper portion stretches to the NE. for 9 miles to the north of the Whilapah river, 
 reckoning from the middle of the line joining Cape Shoalwater and Leadbetter Point. 
 
 The principal stream emptying into the bay is the Whil-a-pah, at its northeast part. At 
 about 9 miles from Cape Shoalwater it is less than a quarter of a mile wide, with low swampy 
 banks and steep bluffs on each side about a mile and a half apart. 
 
 The mouth of the Fcdux, or Copalux, lies 5 miles NE. ^ E. from Leadbetter Point. It is 
 half a mile wide at its mouth ; contracts very much in two miles, and is bordered, by marshes 
 with numerous sloughs running through them. 
 
 The Nasal enters about 11 miles south from the Palux, and abreast of the middle of Long 
 island. It has over 20 feet water at its mouth, with bluff banks for some distance until it 
 begins to expand, when it is bordered by flats. 
 
 Several streams open from the north side of the bay. One of these, the Necomanche, near 
 the Whilapah, has 6 feet in the main channel, and shows l^ mile wide at high tide. 
 
 There are three islands in the bay. Fine island, about 1^ mile NW. by N. off the mouth of 
 the Palux, is a small sand islet of only four or five acres in extent, and occupied by oystermen. 
 It is near the channel and oyster beds, which stretch for a couple of miles to the N.NE. of it. 
 The north end of Long island is 8 miles from Leadbetter Point. This island runs irregularly 
 about SE. for 6 miles, and has an average width of l^ mile. It is covered with a dense forest 
 of fir and undergrowth. One mile S. SE. of Long island is a very small islet called Boiuid 
 island, of only a few acres in extent, covered witlj wood and bushes. The shores of the bay, 
 except on the peninsula, are mostly composed of perpendicular cliifs of a sandy clay, in which 
 are strata of recent fossil shells and the remains of trees. Where the faces of the cliffs are 
 not washed by the waters of the bay they slope gently and have a small grassy shore at their 
 base. 
 
 NE. I N., distant 6 miles from Leadbetter Point, is a sharp narrow cliff, 60 feet high, making 
 out into the bay, which is wearing it away, and has exposed many large basaltic boulders. 
 No other place on the bay presents this geological feature. 
 
 The peninsula is a long, flat, marshy, and sandy plain, elevated but a few feet above the level 
 of the sea, and covered, like the entire surface of this country, with a dense growth of gigantic 
 forest trees, principally spruce, fir, and cedar, with a few specimens of maple, ash, and black 
 alder. The spruce frequently attains a diameter of 8 feet. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 109 
 
 Tho shoals are covered with shell fish, among which the oyster is the most abundant, and 
 the principal article of export. They are small and have a coppery taste. Codiitih and halibut 
 abound; sturgeon, said to be of good quality, are plenty; and salmon of several varieties and 
 excellent flavor exist in infinite numbers. In spring vast shoals of a small herring enter the 
 bay. In winter wild fowl are innumerable, but these have been made shy by the bad sliooting 
 of the Indians. Black and white swan, geese, mallards, canvass backs, &c., always reward the 
 experienced sportsman. 
 
 The yearly shipment of oysters is a(>out 30, 000 bushels, and of piles and spars about 30, 000 
 feet. The average valuation of exports is $120,000. The number of vessels entering yearly 
 is about 25, nearly all of which are schooners, counting an aggregate of 2,500 tons. In 1855 
 the population on tho bay was 190 males and 60 females. 
 
 This bay was discovered by Lieut. John Meares, July 5, 1788, in the Felice, when proceeding 
 in search of the Rio de San Roque of Heceta. Ho approached it until the water shoaled to 8 
 fathoms, when the breakers ahead warned him to haul oflF. "From the mast-head it was 
 observed that this bay extended a considerable way inland, spreading into several arms or 
 branches to the northward and eastward, and the mountainous land behind it was at a great 
 distance from us." He saw "what appeared a narrow entrance at the northwest part of the 
 bay," but it was too remote for him to discover whether it really was so or only low land. 
 "From under the [low] point a canoe came out, containing a man and boy," &c. Unsettled 
 weather prevented his sending in the long boat to sound near the shoals, in order to discover 
 whether there was any channel. He called it Shoalwater bay. 
 
 Vancouver endeavored to enter in 1792, but, as it was breaking across the whole entrance, 
 he considered it inaccessible to his vessels. He says "the sandy beach was bordered by 
 breakers extending three or four miles into the sea, and seemed to be completely inaccessible 
 until 4 p. m., when the appearance of a tolerably good bay presented itself," and the point to 
 the north "somewhat more elevated than the rest of the coast," and in latitude 46° 40'. 
 
 It is asserted by settlers here that boats, canoes, Ac, which have broken adrift and gone 
 out of the bay, have, in every instance, been found on the beach north of the entrance, and 
 generally between it and Gray's harbor. 
 
 The light-liouse at Cape Shoalwater, at the north point of the entrance to Shoalwater bay, is a 
 structure consisting of a keeper* s dwelling, with a tower rising through it and surmounted by 
 an iron lantern, painted red. Its height is 41J feet above the ground and about 87 feet above 
 the mean level of the sea. The dwelling and tower arc plastered and whitewashed, and situated 
 about a mile from the extremity of the cape. The illuminating apparatus is of the fourth order 
 of Fresnel, shows a Jixed white light varied by flashes, and should be seen from a height of — 
 10 feet at a distance of 14^ miles. 
 20 feet at a distance of 16 miles. 
 30 feet at a distance of 17 miles. 
 
 It was first exhibited on the 1st of October, 1858, and shows from sunset to sunrise. The 
 approximate geographical position of the light, as determined by the Coast Survey, is : 
 
 o / /' 
 
 Latitude 46 44 ll^orth. 
 
 Longitude 124 02 24 west. 
 
 k. m. ». 
 Or, in time 8 16 09.6. 
 
110 REPORT OP THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 gbay's habbob. 
 
 From Cape Shoalwater a fine, hard, low sand beach runs N.NW., nearly straight, 13 miles to 
 Point Hanson, the southern point of the entrance to Gray's harbor. The country behind this 
 beach is low, flat, and densely covered with trees. Near the extremity of the point is a slight 
 rise in the ground. 
 
 In giving a description of the bay we can state nothing from personal experience. The only 
 preliminary surveys made are those of Vancouver's expedition in 1792, and of the United States 
 Exploring Expedition in 1841. No survey has yet been made by the Coast Survey, except the 
 approximate determination of the entrance in the reconnaissance of 1852. 
 
 From the southern point of the entrance Point Broivn, on the north side, bears NW. | W., 
 nearly 2j miles distant. Inside of these points the bay spreads out suddenly, and contracts at 
 the mouth of the Chehalis river. This gives it a heart-shaped or triangular form, with the base 
 of the triangle towards the Pacific, and the apex at the Chehalis. The shores are low, except 
 in two places, and the whole northern portion of the bay is an extensive flat, bare at low water. 
 
 Point Brown is the commencement of a large sand waste, stretching towards the Copalis 
 river. It is covered with coarse beach grass and stunted lupin bushes, and is cut up with the 
 tracks of bears, cougars, elk, wolves, &c. The peninsula of Point Brown extends NW. by N. 
 for 8 miles, with an average width of 2^ miles. 
 
 At the time of Whidbey's survey, under the orders of Vancouver, a bar existed off the 
 entrance, having the following position : From Point Hanson, SW. byW. ^ W., 3^ miles distant, 
 and from Point Brown, SW. by S. j S. , 4 miles distant. He does not give the depth of water 
 on the bar in his chart, but in the narrative states it to be 3 fathoms. From this bar the 
 channel was a mile wide, and straight to the entrance between the points; was well marked by 
 the breakers; had from 4 to 10 fathoms in it until nearly abreast of the points, where it was 
 contracted to half a mile and the depth increased to 14 fathoms. Then it opened suddenly to 
 both points with from 3 to 6 fathoms between them. The course in, over the bar and through 
 mid-channel, was NE. ^ N., for 3|- miles to between the points, with two low sand islands in 
 range on the course, and 6^ miles from the bar. A narrow channel existed on either side of 
 these islands towards the Chehalis; the southern channel having from 3 to 4 fathoms, and that 
 on the north side 5 or 6. 
 
 In the indentation SE. of Point Hanson lay an island with a channel on either side, but that 
 on the west was the better. Both led to the mouth of a small stream coming in from the east. 
 He also gives a 4-fathom channel on the east side of Point Brown peninsula, and surveyed two 
 miles up. 
 
 From Point Brown he states Point New to be N. 65° E., (true,) 4^ miles distant, and marks 
 the point on the chart with two rocks off it; but it is not on the proper bearing mentioned in 
 the narrative, unless he took his bearing from the astronomical station. That part of the bay 
 shore near Point New is composed of clifife for 2 or 3 miles. 
 
 The mouth of the Chehalis, which he does not show, is placed NE. by E. ^ B., 8^ miles from 
 Point Brown, the line passing over the centre of the island which lies in the middle of the bay, 
 and is 2^ miles from the fl)int. 
 
 That the bar and general features of the sands have changed much since that time we pro- 
 pose to show from an examination of a reduced copy of the survey by the United States 
 Exploring Expedition in 1841. Here we find no island in the middle of the bay, nor any east 
 
TOE OIIITED STATES COAST SURVEY, 111 
 
 of Point Efjinson, bat n large one 1} mile long by half a mile wide in the middle of the entrance, 
 and connected by a shoal with Point Brown, whilst the channel tiien ran between this island 
 and the southern point. The bar bore SW. 2J miles from Point Brown, and west 2^ miles from 
 Point Hanson, with a depth of about 3 fathoms. This position shows that the bar had moved 
 to the N. by E. no less than two miles. 
 
 From Point Brown a small bluff on the cast side of the bay hears E. J N., 6 J miles distant, 
 with a high hill behind it in range. From Point Hanson this bluff bears E.NE., 5| miles distant. 
 From Point Brown the month of the Ghehalis bears NE. by E. | E., distant 12 miles, differing 
 considerably from Whidbey's determination; and Point New, from the same point, bears NB. 
 J N., distant 5.J miles. 
 
 ■ The next survey will prove what recent changes have taken place, and whether the directions 
 of one season can be relied upon for the next. We have been off the bar but never saw a 
 fair chance for entering. According to the charts of the United States Exploring Expedition 
 the course for crossing it was to bring Point Hanson to bear east and run for it, the channel 
 being straight. 
 
 In the winter of 1852-53 the brig Willimantic was driven ashore upon the island at the 
 entrance, having mistaken this for Shoalwater bay. After vainly attempting to launch her 
 toward the sea she was dragged across the island and launched on the bay side. Then the 
 island was a mere bank of sand, bare at all tides, and covered with logs and drift wood. 
 
 It is stated that close under Point Brown a swash channel exists, which the Indians always 
 use to save crossing the bar. 
 
 The bay was discovered by Gray in May, 1792, and named Bulfinch harbor, after one of the 
 owners of his vessel. He placed it in latitude 46° 58' north. 
 
 It was surveyed by Lieutenant Whidbey, in the storeship Dasdalus, October, 1792, under the 
 directions of Vancouver. He first sent in his boats, and then crossed the bar in three fathoms, 
 with the ebb current running so strong that, although the ship was making nearly five knot* an 
 hour, little actual progress was made. He applied the present name, Gray's harbor, in com- 
 pliment to its discoverer. On some old maps we have found it called Whidbey's harbor. Ho 
 named Point Hanson after the commander of the Dajdalus, and the northern point ho called 
 Point Brown, placing it in latitude 46° 59J' north. 
 
 The southern point was called Point Chickeeles, and the same name was applied to the river. 
 
 In the recent maps of the Coast Survey, Point Brown is plotted in latitude 46° 57', longitude 
 124° 04', and the southern is termed Point Harrison. Among the few settlers in this region it 
 is called Point Armstrong. 
 
 The name of the river is derived from the Indian tribe inhabiting the bay and river. They 
 pronounce it Tche-ha-lis. • 
 
 The country behind the bay is low and flat, receiving the waters of the Chehalis from the 
 eastward. This river is said to be navigable for boats for a distance of 60 miles, and to drain 
 a timbered, well watered countrj', abounding in many small prairies. 
 
 For January, 1859, the line of eqiud magnetic variation of 21° east crosses the coast line in 
 latitude 47° 08', and in latitude 46° 58' it crosses the 125° of longitude. This line moves 
 annually a mile and a half to the southward. 
 
 OOPALIS BIVEB. 
 
 We know nothing of this stream except from settlers who have passed it in travelling along 
 the shore. 
 
112 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 From Point Brown the shore-line trends about NW. by "W. for 5 miles; then N. by W. ^ W. 
 for the same distance to the mouth of the Gopalis. The barren waste of Point Brown con- 
 tinues along this shore, commencing with a width of nearly two miles, stretching from the 
 ocean to a dense forest of fir, and growing narrower as it approaches the Copalis, where the 
 timber comes to^the water's edge. 
 
 This stream is about 100 yards wide, but the mouth is almost closed by a bar. Upon its 
 banks reside the Copalis tribe of Indians, from whom the river derives its name. Like all the 
 streams on this coast it abounds in salmon, but those caught here are celebrated for their succu- 
 lent richness of flavor. Their general appearance is similar to those of the Columbia river, 
 but this variety rarely exceeds two feet in length. They weigh from five to ten pounds. 
 
 In or about October, 1854, there was discovered, one mile north of the Copalis, the whole 
 stern frame of the propeller General Warren, which had been wrecked on Clatsop spit, at the 
 mouth of the Columbia river, more than two years previously, having thus been carried by 
 currents at least 60 miles from its original position. When the hydrographic survey of the 
 entrance to the Columbia was made by the Coast Survey parties in 1852 this wreck was found 
 and its position determined. From Cape Disappointment it bore SE. by E., almost 4 miles 
 distant, and was consequently little more than a mile from Point Adams. It then rested on 
 the north edge of the Clatsop spit. This shows a direction of the current corroborating 
 Vancouver's account when anchored off Destruction island. 
 
 POINT GRENVILLE. 
 
 From the Copalis to this point the shore runs NW. ^ N. about 16 miles, and continues low, 
 nearly straight, and bordered by sand beach, which changes to shingle, disposed in long rows 
 parallel to the coast. These ridges of shingle dam the mouths of many small streams and 
 form ponds, abounding in trout, and well stocked with beaver and otter, according to the 
 accounts of the Indians. The high land also approaches much nearer the beach and forms 
 sandstone cliffs, with rocky ledges projecting into the ocean. 
 
 Point Grenville is a bluff, rocky promontory, stretching westward about a mile, and then 
 southward about a quarter, forming a very contracted and exposed roadstead; with the 
 3-fathom curve extending half a mile from the beach, compelling vessels, except of very light 
 draught, to anchor so far out that the point and the rocks off it afford but little protection from 
 the northwest winds. It is useless during the winter months. The point has high hills lying 
 behind it, and many rocks immediately off it; two of these, about 75 feet high, lie E. by S. 
 400 yards distant; another lies SW. | S. half a mile distant. This, we believe, is the one which 
 shows a large perforation through it when viewed from the southeast or northwest. It has 5 
 and 6 fathoms all around it. Others stretch along the coast to the northwest, one of them 
 showing from the south as a leg-of-mutton sail. The bluff itself is composed of fine sandstone, 
 i s very steep, and may be ascended by a difScult trail, which is used by the Indians. It is said 
 to be a great resort for sea otters, which are hunted by the natives. 
 
 Its approximate geographical position is: 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 47 20 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 14 west. 
 
 h. m. g. 
 
 Or, in time 8 16 56 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVET. 113 
 
 Prom Cape Disappointment light it bears NW. by N. | N. distant 62 miles, and from the 
 cape soundings may be hud in from 8 to 15 fathoms, 3 or 4 miles from the shore. 
 
 This point is stiid to bo the Panta de Martires of Heceta and Bodega, because in latitude 
 41° 20' seven of the crew of Bodega's vessel, the Sefiora, were massacred by the natives. 
 
 It received its present name in 1792, from Vancouver, who placed it in latitude 47° 22', and 
 describes as lying off it "three rocky islets, one of which, like that at Cape Lookout, is 
 perforated." ^ 
 
 North of Gronville to Cape Flattery the shore is bold and rocky, with occasional short 
 reaches of sand beach. The timber comes down to the water; moderately high hills approach 
 the coast, through which empty numerous small streams, whilst the irregular Olympus range 
 rises far in the interior. In winter these mountains are covered with snow, which lies in the 
 gorges and valleys nearly the whole summer. Mount Olympus is the highest peak of the range. 
 It attains an elevation of 8,138 feet, according to determinations made in 1841, which also 
 place it in latitude 47° 45' N. and longitude 1223 37/ "w^ 
 
 It is said to have been first seen by Perez, in 1774, who placed it in 47° 47' N., and called 
 it La Sierra Santa Rosalia, but the account of his voyage was not published until many years 
 after that date. 
 
 It was next described by Meares, in 1788, and placed in latitude 47° 10', the error arising 
 from it« bearing, and he sapposing it much nearer the coast-line than it actually is. In his 
 sketch it is marked quite close to the shore, in latitude 47° 15' N. He called it Mount 
 Olympus, the only name bjr which it is now known. 
 
 In 1792 Vancouver determined its position approximately, and gave the latitude as 
 47° 50' N. 
 
 Que-m-iUt River. — The mouth of this small stream is between three and four miles NW. by 
 W. from Point Grenville, and is almost closed by the shingle and gravel thrown up by the 
 surf, which leave, however, a contracted opening for the passage of canoes in calm weather. 
 The closing of the entrance has so dammed the river as to form a small lake inside, upon the 
 banks of which is situat«d a village of the Queniults, a race of Indians hostile to all other 
 tribes. Combined with others to the northward they have ever been notorious for their 
 hostility and vindictiveness to the whites. Several Spanish, English, and Russian vessels and 
 their crews were, in former times, taken and destroyed. Hence we meet with the names 
 Destruction Island, Isla de Dolores, Punta de Martires, Ac, in this immediate vicinity. The 
 river is said to head in a lake at the foot of the mountains. 
 
 The name of this river is usually known by the old settlers as Qne-noith, but the Indians are 
 said to pronounce it as if spelled Qufe-ni-ult, accenting the first syllable strongly, and the last 
 so softly that many persons consider they call themselves simply Que-nai. A tribe still further 
 north is called the Que-nait'-sath. 
 
 These Indians, when travelling by canoes along the low sandy beach south of Point Grenville, 
 push out into the rollers, keep between the line of two seas that have broken, and pole the 
 canoe through the snrf. This peculiar mode is rather apt to excite the fears of those ignorant 
 of what a canoe can be made to do when skilfully handled. 
 
 For four miles above the Quoniult the coast trends in the same direction, NW. by W., is 
 
 composed of sandstone cliffs, and bounded by many precipitous rocks, the height and directiou 
 
 of which are generally that of the cliff. In the Coast Survey reconnaissance of 1852, one is 
 
 placed 2J miles off shore in latitude 47° 27', and the vessel's track is laid down inside of it. A 
 
 15 
 
114 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 great many large rocky islets lie close in shore in this vicinity, but northward the coast is 
 nearly clear to Destruction island. It makes a slight curve eastward, and alternates with bold 
 yellow cliifs and low shores. 
 
 DESTRUCTION ISLAND. 
 
 This island is the only one found deserving the appellation after leaving the Farallones. It 
 is about 150 feet hi^, quite flat on the top, covered with grass but destitute of trees, and has 
 high perpendicular sides of the same height as the cliffs on the main. It is said that there are 
 some remarkable perforations through a rock near it, but these are, doubtless, only seen in 
 particular directions, for, in passing close to it, we have never noticed them. On the eastern 
 end were formerly some rude Indian huts. In Vancouver's'time he found two or three dwarf 
 trees at either end. 
 
 In running along the coast, 10 miles off, it is very difficult to make out this island, because 
 being within 1^ mile of the main it is projected against the coast cliffs and cannot be distin- 
 guished from them until close upon it. It is narrow, but about 1^ mile long in a N.NW. direc- 
 tion running parallel with the coast; has rocks for a mile off its southern end. A reef and sand 
 bank is represented as stretching thence W. NW. 3 miles to broken water, and from there 
 running nearly straight to the northern end. A detailed examination of this locality might 
 prove that good refuge could be had under the island during heavy southeast and southwest 
 weather. 
 
 Between it and the main the soundings range from 7 to 12 fathoms, and to the northward 
 from 10 to 14. - ■* 
 
 The approximate geographical position of the north end is : 
 
 • . o / 
 
 Latitude 47 41 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 25 west. 
 
 From Cape Disappointment it bears NW. by N. 84 miles. 
 
 This island is called Isla de Dolores upon old Spanish maps. It received its present name, 
 by which it is only known on the coast, in 1787, from Captain Berkely, who sent a long-boat 
 from King George's Sound to explore as far south as latitude 47°. The crew of a smaller boat 
 entered a shallow river and rowed up some distance, where they were attacked and murdered 
 by the Indians. 
 
 In April, 1792, while Vancouver was at anchor in 21 fathoms, 3^ miles S.SW. of this island, 
 he ' ' had calms, and found a constant current, without intermission, setting in the line of the 
 coast to the northward." After passing Cape Orford he had been regularly thus affected, and 
 carried to the north 10 to 12 miles per day further than was expected. He gives the latitude 
 of the island as 47° 37' north. 
 
 W. by N., distant 16 miles from Point Grenville, we discovered, in June, 1855, a bank 
 having 15 fathoms upon it, with very soft mud bottom; at 21 miles distance, 17 fathoms; and 
 at 29 miles, 36 fathoms; and 3 miles S.SE. of the first position we struck 16^ fathoms, with 
 the same bottom, in all the soundings; but had not time to make an extended examination. In 
 April, 1856, we found 45 fathoms in latitude 46° 54' N., longitude 125° 03' W., being 16 miles 
 broad off shore. The soundings of 17, 18, and 19 fathoms, one mile from shore, would indicate 
 a greater depth than we obtained. Vancouver has 50 fathoms inside of our first soundings. 
 
 From Destruction island northward the shore is composed of cliffs which form a regular 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 115 
 
 curve to a point bearing NW. J W. from the nortli end of the island, and 11 miles distant; 
 thence the shore runs nearly straight on that course for 10 miles to two high bluffs and well 
 marked rocks, sUmding a mile from shore. The outer one is bold and covered with tall 
 trees, but the inner one is bare. They are in latitude 47° 58', longitude 124° 40'. Many 
 others, but smaller, lie. inside of them, and 19 fathoms are found close outside. Along this 
 stretoh the shore is irregular and bluff with many high rocky islets off it. A stream opens 
 about midway in the stretch. 
 
 In the indentation northward of Destruction island, and about 4 miles from it, empties a 
 amall stream, which we believe is called Hooch by the Indians. . . 
 
 PLATTEBT BOCKS. 
 
 From the two rocks just mentioned to Cape Flattery, in 48° 23', the course is almost N.NW., 
 passing through a group of high, well marked, rocky islets, in latitude 48° 12' N., called the 
 Flattery Rocks. Before reaching these the coast line curves about a mile eastward, with a bluff 
 shore nearly free from rocks for about 8 miles, when a large white rock half a mile out looms up 
 prominently, and is distinctly seen against the main land. 
 
 Flattery Rocks extend between two and three miles from shore; the outer ledge is awash 
 with one islet in it, and the track of the coast surveying steamer is laid down inside of it, with 
 soundings in 9 to 20 fathoms. High abrupt timbered islets lie inside, with their ocean faces 
 nearly perpendicular, about 150 feet high, and sloping landward. Where destitute of trees, 
 these are covered with grass, bushes, Ac. The latitude of the rocks is 48° 12' north. 
 
 In March 1778, Cook, having been driven seaward by heavy gales off Cape Perpetua, made the 
 land about the latitude of 47° 35', and 4 leagues from shore, as he says, when he was in hopes 
 of finding a harbor to the northward under a small round hill which appeared to be an island, 
 but on approaching it he became almost convinced that the opening was closed by low lands, 
 and being thus disappointed, he named the point of land to the north o4 it Cape Flattery, and 
 placed it in latitude 48° 15' N. On recent English charts the cape is placed in the position of 
 the Flattery Rocks, although Vancouver adopted the present usage on this coast. From an 
 examination of Cook's account, with a knowledge of the coast and the currents here, we are 
 satisfied that he was further north than he estimated on the morning of March 22, for he says 
 the small round hill like an island bore N. | B., (true,) distant 6 or 7 leagues, while the coast 
 extended from N. to SE., (true.) These facts convince us that his position was in latitude 
 47° 50', longitude 124° 46'; from this situation the Flattery Rocks are distant 7 leagues, bearing 
 N. I E., (true;) the extremity of Cape Flattery bearing nearly N., (true;) the distance to the 
 nearest point of land a little more than 3 leagues; and the coast northward of Point Qrenville 
 bearing SE., (true.) The point of land northward of the Flattery Rocks was, therefore, his 
 Cape Flattery, and his estimated latitude of it 8 miles too small. Before next day he had a 
 very hard gale from the SW., accompanied with rain, and he did not see land again until ho 
 reached latitude 49J°. He arrived at the conclusion that between 47° ao^ 48° there existed 
 no inlet, as had been asserted. 
 
 From Flattery Rocks wo find a high rocky coast, bordered by outlying rocks for 8 miles, when 
 a low sand beach occurs, receiving a small stream which runs E.NE. and finally north, behind 
 the mountain constituting Cape Flattery, to within 200 yards of the beach in Ne6-ah bay. A 
 rise of 20 or 30 feet of the sea would make Cape Flattery an island, extending 6 miles (W.NW.) 
 
116 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 by 3 miles in breadth. This creek is used by the outer coast Indians during the prevalence of 
 heavy winter gales, when the passage outside the cape would be impracticable. 
 
 From Point Grenville to Cape Flattery the hills rising from the coast are about 2, 000 feet 
 high, densely covered with trees, and cut up by innumerable valleys. The shore is inhabited 
 by numerous tribes of Indians, accustomed to war and bitterly hostile to the whites. They are 
 far superior to the Indians found along the southern coast. Their villages are heavily stockaded, 
 and the houses made of cedar boards, which they have cut with great industry from the tree. 
 We have measured and found some of these boards to be over 4 feet wide and 20 feet long; the 
 outside edges being about an inch thick and three inches in the middle. Their houses are very 
 large and partitioned off into stalls for each family. The numerous streams emptying upon the 
 coast afford them a never failing supply of the finest salmon; and to obtain means of barter 
 with white traders they fearlessly attack and capture the different species of whale on the coast. 
 
 • TATOOSH ISLAND. 
 
 This island lies W.NW. half a mile from the point of Cape Flattery. It is composed of small 
 islets connected by reefs, is quite flat-topped, and without trees. The surface is 100 feet above ^ ■ 
 high water, and the sides are perpendicular; the entire mass being composed of coarse sand- 
 stone conglomerate with an outcrop of basalt on one of the reefs. There is a depth of two or 
 three feet of soil upon the top, which was formerly cultivated by the Indians, who resorted 
 here in summer about 150 strong, and had several houses near the only boat landing on the 
 inside of the island, (1852.) A reef extends a quarter of a mile off the west side of the island, 
 and the whole extent of the island and reef is only half a mile W.NW. by a third of a mile. 
 Deep water is found upon all sides, except between it and the cape, where a reef exists upon 
 which it breaks very heavily in bad weather. We are informed that small vessels have gone 
 through when jammed by an unfavorable wind. In so doing great risk must have been 
 incurred, as the currents in the vicinity run very irregularly and strong. 
 
 From the top of the island a leaning rocky column, about 75 feet high and one-third of that 
 in diameter, is seen to the southeastward close under the face of the cape. It is sometimes 
 called Fuca's pillar. 
 
 TATOOSH ISLAND LIGHT-HOUSE. 
 
 This structure is erected on the highest part of the island, and consists of a keeper's dwelling 
 of stone, with a tower of brick, whitewashed, rising above it and surmounted by an iron lantern 
 painted red, its height being 66 feet above the top of the island. The light was first exhibited 
 December 28, 1857, and shows every night, from sunset to sunrise, z, fixed white light of the first 
 order of Freenel, which is elevated 162 feet above the mean sea level, and in clear weather 
 should be seen from a height of — 
 
 10 feet at a distance of 18.2 miles; 
 
 20 feet at a distance of 19.7 miles; 
 
 30 feet at a distance of 20.9 miles; 
 
 60 feet at a distance of 23.5 miles; 
 so that a vessel from the southward will make it before being up with the Flattery Rocks. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 117 
 
 The geograpliical position of the light, aa detorminod by the Coast Survey, is: 
 
 o / '/ 
 
 Latitude 48 23 15.5 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 43 50.0 west. 
 
 A, n. f. 
 
 . Or, in time _• 8 18 55.3. 
 
 Magnetic variation, 21° 46' eaat, in August, 1855, with a yearly increase of 1'.4. 
 
 The angle of visibility from the land southward, round by the west to the extreme western 
 visible point of Vancouver island, is 131°, and from the same starting poiqt round by the 
 west, up the strait of Juan de Fuca 263°. 
 
 This island, with its outlying r^cf, is the most western portion of the United States. 
 
 The present name is that given to us by the Indian tribe (Muk-kaw) inhabiting the cape and . 
 outer part of the strait. Their word to designate an island is opichuk't. 
 
 On June 29, 1788, Mearcs, passing the entrance to the strait, hove to off this island, was 
 visited by the Indians, and sent an officer to examine it, who reported that it was a "solid rock 
 covered with little verdure, and surrounded by breakers in every direction." They also "saw 
 a very remarkable rock that wore the appearance of an obelisk, and stood at some distance 
 from the island." To this rock he gave the name of Pinnacle Rock. It is the columnar leaning 
 rock already described. He says "the island itself appeared to be a barren rock, almost inac- 
 cessible, and of no great extent; but the surface of it, as far as wo could see, was covered with . ^/ 
 inhabitants, who were gazing at the ship." "The chief of this spot, whose name is Tatooche, - 
 did us the favor of a visit, and so surly aftd forbidding a character we had not yet seen." The 
 Indians evidently gave him the name of the island, which he mistook for that of the chief- 
 And here we may be permitted to remark that from this place to Cape Lookout the descrip- 
 tions of Meares confirm our own observations, 
 
 BOCK DUNCAN. 
 
 This is a small low black rock rising above the highest tides, but always washed by the 
 western swell, which breaks over it. Deep water is found close around it. From Tatoosh 
 island light it bears N. 33° W., distant 2,078 yards, or more than a mile, and many vessels 
 pass between them, as the chart shows 25 fathoms; but a rock has been reported in the channel, 
 iind it would be well to avoid it until the doubt is set at rest. Vancouver's vessels passed 
 between them. The rock was first noticed by Mr. Duncan, and placed in latitude 48° 37' N., 
 which Vancouver, who gave it the present name, considered a typographical error. 
 
 DDNTZE BOCK. 
 
 * 
 
 Jfearly a quarter of a mjle off Rock Duncan, on the line from Tatoosh island, *^cllet places a 
 rock having three fathoms water upon it, and to which he gave this name. 
 
 With no wind, a heavy swell to the west, ebb current and proximity to thsse outlying rocks 
 and island, a vessel's position is unsafe., and great caution should be exercised in navigating 
 this part of the entrance to the Strait of Fuca. 
 
118 EEPORT OF THE SUPEEINTENDENT OF 
 
 CAPE FLATTERY. 
 
 This cape forms the southern head of the entrance of the Strait of Juan de Fuca; it has a 
 bold, wild, jagged sea-face, about 100 feet high, much disintegrated by the wearing action of 
 the ocean; rises in a mile to an irregular hill of 1,500 or 2,000 feet in height; is cut up by 
 gorges and covered with a dense growth of fir and almost impenetrable underbrush from the 
 edge of the cliffs to the summit. The shore-line round to Nee-ah bay is of the same forbidding 
 character, bordered by reefs, and having but one short stretch of beach at the foot of the hills, 
 upon which is situated (or was, in 1852,) Clisseet's village. The soundings half a mile from 
 shore are deep and irregular, reaching 68 fathoms. The current runs as much as three miles 
 per hour, and during the ebb sets irregularly round the cape, Tatoosh island, and Rock Duncan. 
 . When seen from the southwestward. Cape Flattery looks like an island, on account of the valley 
 three or four miles eastward. The best position for seeing this is when a single rock off the 
 cape shows itself detached. From this direction the high mountains on Vancouver's island 
 loom up and stretch far away to the northwest and to the east. 
 
 The extent of ocean shore-line from Cape Disappointment to Cape Flattery is 148 miles. 
 
 The name adopted is that which Cook gave to this headland in 1778. It has been called 
 Cape Martinez by the Spaniards, from its asserted discovery, in 1774, by Martinez, pilot to 
 Perez, who announced many years afterward that he remembered to have observed a wide 
 opening in the land between 48° and 49° north latitude. 
 
 On recent English charts it is called Cape Classet, because, in 1792, Vancouver stated that 
 as the name given by the Indians to distinguish it, but in a marginal note it is called " Cape 
 Flattery." In 1852 we found that the then head chief of the Muk-kaws, a powerful man, about 
 40 or 45 years of age, called himself, and was called by the tribe, Clisseet' but we could not 
 ascertain whether this was or was not a hereditary title. 
 
 On the western coast it is universally known as Cape Flattery. 
 
 It was near this cape that a Japanese junk was wrecked in 1833, accounts of which will be 
 found in Belcher's narrative, and in that of the United States Exploring Expedition. 
 
 BANK OFF CAPE FLATTERY. 
 
 At the entrance to the Strait of Juan de Fuca, 15 miles, by estimation, W.NW. from Cape 
 Flattery, we have been informed that a bank exists having 18 fathoms upon it, and. moreover, 
 that during a calm our informant fished upon it and caught a large number of codfish. His 
 attention was called to it by a number of canoes fishing. While encamped in Nee-ah bay, in 
 1852, the Indians frequently went out upon some bank off the strait to fish for cod, but we 
 looked upon their assertions with distrust, and believed they caught the fish inside df the strait. 
 Each season in passing, as we wished incidentally to seek for this bank, we encountered south- 
 east gales, which rendered the examination impracticable. 
 
 • STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA. 
 
 The entrance to this strait from the Pacific lies between Cape Flattery and Cape Bonilla, on 
 Vancouver island, which forms the northern shores. Its width is about 14 miles, and the 
 bearing from Flattery to Bonilla NW. J N. From this line the strait runs east for 40 miles, 
 with a uniform width of 11 miles. It gradually contracts to 8 miles between Beachy Head, on 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 119 
 
 the north, and St^^d Peak, on tho south; changes its direction to E. by N. \ N. for 15 miles; 
 then expands to tho northward, attaining a width of 18 to 20 miles, and divides into two ship 
 channels, the Canal do Ilaro and Rosario Strait, leading through the Archipelago do Ilaro, north- 
 ward, to the Gulf of Georgia. It is terminated on the east by Whidbey island; at the southeast 
 it passes into Admiralty Inlet; and it is bounded on the south by the main land of Washington 
 Territory, which forms the entire southern shore of the strait. From the ocean to Whidbey 
 island the mid-channel distance is 84 miles. The depth of water throughout the strait is 
 remarkably great, no bottom being found in its deepest parts with 150 fathoms of line. It is 
 the main artery for the waters of Admiralty Inlet, Pnget's Sound, Possession Sound, Hood's 
 Canal, Canal de Haro, Rosario Strait, Bellingham Bay, and the vast Gulf of Georgia, extending 
 between Vancouver island and New Caledonia for 120 miles, with an average width of 20. 
 Its currents run with an average velocity of not less than three miles per hour, and off the Race 
 > islands and Beechy Head over 6 miles an hour. Its shores are bold, abrupt, and covered with 
 a heavy growth of varied timber and dense underbrush. On the north the mountains rise 
 rapidly from the water, and many attain an elevation of not less fhan 6,000 or 7,000 feet. 
 These are covered with fir to their summits. On the south, for 30 miles from the entrance, the 
 shore is bounded by hills of 2,000 feet height, backed by the jagged OljTnpus range of 8,200 
 feet. For the next 50 miles the shore is generally a steep cliff, from 60 to 200 feet high, with 
 a flat country extending nearly to the foot hills of Olympus, and stretching further south as we 
 move eastward. On the east the face of Whidbey island is very steep; it is about 250 feet 
 high and appears flat, as does tho whole country eastward to the sharp-cut outline of the Cas- 
 cade range, stretching its serrated ridge northward where the snow-peak of Mount Baker* is 
 distinctly seen; and to the southward where the higher peak of Mount Rainier* attracts the eye. 
 
 At the time of our first visit the southern shore of the strait was inhabited by large numbers 
 of Indians, living in heavily stockaded villages. They were tolerably expert in the use of fire- 
 arms, of which they seemed to have a good supply. They lived mostly by fishing, but raised 
 a fair supply of remarkably good potatoes from the stock seed of the Hudson Bay Company. 
 
 During dry summers the Indians and settlers set fire to the forests in every direction, and the 
 country soon becomes enveloped in a dense smoke that lasts for two or three months. At such 
 times it is frequently impossible to make out the shore at half a mile distance; the strong 
 westerly winds coming up the strait disperse it for a while, but only to fan the fires and give 
 them renewed force and activity. 
 
 In summer the prevailing wind draws into the strait, increasing towards evening, and frequently 
 blowing a ten-knot breeze before midnight; but unless the wind is strong outside little will be 
 felt in the strait, and very frequently vessels will be a week from Cape Flattery to Admiralty 
 Inlet, or vice versa. In winter the southeast winds draw directly out, and create a very heavy 
 cross sea off tho entr.ince, the great southwest swell meeting that rolling out. In such cases 
 trading vessels try to gain Nee-ah bay or San Juan harbor, and remain at anchor until the wind 
 changes. In beating in or out vessels may run as close under either shore as wind and currents 
 warrant, as no hidden dangers have been found half a mile off shore, except at tho west side of 
 the small indentation called Crescent bay, near Striped Peak, 44 miles inside of Rock Duncan. 
 
 At the entrance the currepts acquire, during the 'large tide" of each day, a velocity of 4 
 miles per hour, and, after strong northwest winds, a very large, short, but regular swell is 
 encountered west of Nefi-ah bay during the ebb current. If the wind is light and no steerage 
 
 e Named by Vanoourer, 1791. 
 
>^ 
 
 120 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 way on the vessel the feeling is decidedly disagreeable, especially as -the current seems 
 constantly to set close around Rock Duncan and Tatoosh island. If a vessel falls into the 
 trough of this swell she is bound to fetch away something. 
 
 Settlers are gradually advancing from Puget's Sound and Admiralty Inlet along the strait 
 westward, and scom destined to meet those coming up the coast from Gray's harbor and Shoal- 
 water bay. 
 
 Washington Territory has a climate excelled only by that of California. "We know not where 
 to point to such a ramification of inland navigation, save in the British possessions to the north- 
 ward. For depth of water, boldness of approaches, freedom from hidden dangers, and the 
 immeasurable sea of gigantic timber coming down to th^ very sh^ores, these waters are 
 unsurpassed, unapproachable. ^' tv c^w ^1 "H^ eJS Vtrv, *wf^ / ^ '^ 
 
 The Strait of Juan de Fuca was discovered by the long boat of the Imperial Eagle, under the 
 command of Berkely, in 1787. 
 
 In June, 1788, it was examined by Meares, in the Felice, he having obtained information of 
 its existence from Berkely. At the entrance it "appeared to be 12 or 14 leagues broad. From 
 the mast-head it was observed to stretch to the E. by N. , and a clear unbounded horizon was 
 seen in that direction as far as the eye could reach." He frequently sounded "but could 
 procure no bottom with 100 fathoms of line." He afterwards sent a party to explore the strait, 
 who went up about 50 miles, determining the harbor of San Juan. He first applied the name 
 "John de Fuca" to the strait. 
 
 After the expedition of 1775 several Spanish expeditions were fitted out for exploration in 
 these latitudes, but we are not sufficiently acquainted with their results to state their claims 
 and merits. Quimper was in the strait in 1790, and Galiano and Valdez in 1791 and 1792. 
 
 Gray entered the strait in 1792, penetrated 50 miles in an B.SE. direction, and found the 
 passage 6 leagues wide. He gives the latitude of Tatoosh island, or Cape Flattery, 48° 24'. 
 The extracts from his log-book, stating particulars of this and the Columbia river exploration, 
 were not made public until 1816. All of Gray's latitudes, distances, and courses, are very 
 good and trustworthy. 
 
 Vancouver entered the strait in 1792, and gave to the world the first detailed and authentic 
 account of it._a- 
 
 THE SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE STRAIT OF JUAN DE FUCA. 
 
 NBE-AH BAT. 
 
 Koitlah Point, the western boundary of this bay, is 4 miles E. by N. § N. from the light- 
 house on Tatoosh island. From Cape Flattery the shore is nearly straight, high, and rugged, 
 backed by hills about 1,500 or 2,000 feet high and covered with timber. Deep water is found 
 within a third of a mile of the bluffs, and, at a distance of half a mile, a depth of 20 fathoms 
 is obtained. Within a mile of Koitlah Point was a large village of the Mukkaws. 
 
 The bay is about a mile and a quarter long S.SE., and the same in width at the entrance. 
 The western side is high, precipitous, and bordered by craggy, outcropping rocks 300 or 400 
 yards from the shore. The 3-fathom curve ranges about 600 yards from the foot of the bluff. 
 The general direction of this side is SE. for one mile, when the hills suddenly cease and a low 
 shore, with sand beach backed by woods, curves gradually to the NE. by E for a mile and a 
 quarter to Ba-ad-dah Point, formed by a spur of the hills. 
 
 The east side of the bay is formed by Waaddah island, the northern end of which lies 1^ 
 
THE UNITKD STATES COAST 8UHVEY. 121 
 
 mile from Koitlah E. f>y N. J N. This inland is ii narrow, high ridge, about 250 yards wide 
 :iiid hiilf a mile long, covered with trees, and Iniving a direction SE. { E. pointing* toward 
 Ba-ad-d«l» Point, and presenting the appearanco of a continuation of that spur, but separated 
 from it by a 4 -fathom channel 500 yards wide. Off the southwest part rocks extend for 250 
 yards, and the 3-fathom curve is 600 yards distant. Along the sand beach the 3-fathom curve 
 is within 200 yards of the shore, the depth increasing to 7 fathoms, then decreasing to 5 in the 
 middle of the bay, an<l again increasing to 10 on the outer lino of the bay. Much kelp abounds 
 in this harbor, even in deep water; the lower and thinnest portion being used by the Indians 
 for fishing lines. When coiled away and dry they break like ^lass, but soaking them in salt 
 water renews their elasticity and strength. 
 
 The best anchorage is in the south part of the bay, in about o tuthoms, being tlien olf the 
 small stream which comes in at the eastern foot of the hills. No direction can be given about 
 anchoring off any particular village, as the Indians change their location so frequently; but 
 near tliis stream will generally be found some bouses, with an abundance of fresh water. 
 During southerly weatlier little swell is felt hero, and the wind can do no harm, but when a 
 largo westerly swell is coming up the strait it roaches here, and a vessel rolls uncomfortably 
 unless she rides head to it. • 
 
 The primary astronomical station of the Coast Survey was just back of the beach, about 400 
 yards oast of the small stream before referred to. Its geographical position is: 
 
 or (/ 
 
 Latitude 48 21 48.8 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 37 12.0 west. 
 
 A. m. ». 
 
 Or, in time 8 18 28.8. 
 
 Magnetic variation 21° 30* east, in August, 1852, with a yearly increase of l'.4. 
 
 From the NW. end of Waaddab island it bears S. by W. J W., distant 1| mile. 
 
 TidcD. — The corrected establishment or mean interval between the timo of the moon's 
 transit and the time of high water is Xllh. XXXIIIm. The moan rise and fall of tides is 5.6 
 feet; of spring tides 7.4 feet, and of neap tides 4.8 feet. The mean duration of the flood is 6A. 
 20m., and of the ebb Qh. 6m. The average difference between the corrected estabhshments of 
 the a. m. and p. m. tides of the same day is l/«. 18m. for high water and lit. 2m. for low water. 
 The differences when the moon's declination is greatest are 2A. 20m. and Ih. 5Got., respectively. 
 The average difference in height of those two tides is 1.7 foot for the high waters and 3.5 feet 
 for the low waters. When the moon's declination is greatest those differences are 2.8 feet and 
 5.0 feet, respectively. The average difference of the highest high and lowest low waters of 
 the same day is 8.2 feet, and when the moon's declination is greatest 9.5 feet. The highest 
 high water in the twenty-fonr hours occurs about llh. 54m. after the moon's uppet transit, 
 (southing,) when the moon's declination is north, and about 32m. before, when south. The 
 lowest low water occurs about Ih. after the highest high water. 
 
 This bay was known as Poverty cove by the early fur traders on the coast; next as Port 
 
 Xufiez Guona, by Quimper, in 1790. * In 1792 the Spaniards, then establishing themselves at 
 
 Nootka Sound, attempted to found a colony here, and as late as 1847 bricks were found near 
 
 the small stream abreast of the anchorage. We searched for vestiges of the settlement as late 
 
 as 1852, but found nothing. Vancouver noted tho indentation of the coast here in 1792. It 
 
 waa next called "Scarborough harbor," by the Unitad States Exploring Expedition in 1841. 
 
 The Indian name is that now adopted, and the only one by which it is known on the coast. 
 16 
 
122 EEPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 In 1852 the Mukkaws about Flattery could muster 300 or 400 warriors, mostly armed with 
 muskets and knives. They had several large stockaded villages and hundreds of canoes. We 
 have counted over 70 at one time fishing for salmon in the bay. They were brave and fearless; 
 made voyages to Nitinat, Clayoquot, and Nootka Sounds, and pursued the whale and black fish 
 successfully. In three months they sold over 7, 500 gallons of oil to the traders. They main- 
 tain trade with the Indians on the west of Vancouver, forcing them to dispose of their oil and 
 skins to themselves directly, and not to the traders. By this means they make a large profit 
 as intermediate traders. They estimate their wealth by the number of slaves and blankets, 
 and the quantity of oil they possess. In the fall of 1852 the smallpox Avas introduced among 
 them, and nearly swept oif the -tribe — more than two-thirds falling victims to the disease — 
 among them the principal chief, Clisseet, and the second chief, Flattery Jack. 
 
 Two miles east of Waaddah island, and within the limits of the kelp, is a rock 150 feet high, 
 called Sail Rock by the United States Exploring Expedition, and by Kellet, Klaholoh, (seals.) 
 The Indian name is Saelok. Behind it enters a small stream called the Okho on the Admiralty 
 charts, but this is not the Indian name. 
 
 CALLAM BAY. 
 
 From the eastern point of Nee-ah bay to Sek&j^ Point, the western part of Callam bay, the 
 course is E. ^ S., and distance 13^ miles. The shore-line is nearly straight, bluif, and 
 bordered by rocks, with an occasional stretch of sandy beach. One mile off shore the average 
 depth of water is 20 fathoms. The bay is at the western termination of a high, bold, wooded 
 ridge, running parallel to the shore, with an almost perpendicular water face, and falling away 
 rapidly inshore. This easily recognized ridge is about 1,000 feet high and 7 miles long. The 
 Avestern extremity lies E. | S. from "Waaddah island, is distant 16 miles, and called SUj) Point; 
 the eastern is designated as Pillar Point. The width of the bay from Sekon Point to Slip Point 
 is 2 miles, and the bearing E. by N. 5 N. Outside these limits 15 fathoms water may be 
 struck. The form of the bay is nearly semi-circular, and the depth of the curve nearly a mile, 
 with 6 fathoms about the middle. Into it empties a small stream from the southeast, having 
 low land on its eastern side, and a small rise on the west. Some sunken rocks are said to lie 
 off SUp Point. 
 
 The water along the face of the ridge is very deep, and the bottom rocky and irregular. 
 About half way along it is the entrance to a vein of lignite, Avhich has been worked, but it is 
 not fit for steamship consumption. Off this mine, at the distance of a cable's length, a depth 
 of 35 fathoms is found, with a swell upon the rocks sufficient to destroy any boat loading there. 
 The so-called coal is very easily broken, and crumbles by exposure to the Aveather. We saAV 
 it fairly tried upon a steamer, and it did not answer. An analysis of some of the best speci- 
 mens yielded 68 per cent, of carbon, and we judge it to be bitumen. The geological formation 
 of the whole region is opposed to the existence of coal. Among the bituminous shales we 
 searched in vain for any specimens of fossil impressions. 
 
 Pillar Point is nearly E. \ S. from the north end of Waaddah island, and distant 23 miles. 
 Its latitude is 48° 13' N. The peak is slightly separated from the main ridge by a depression. 
 From this point the shore trends S.SE. about a mile, and receives a stream coming from the. 
 westward, called Carrd river. An Indian village exists here. The Indian name of the stream 
 is Pisht-st. 
 
 From Pillar Point the next prominent object is a Avooded hill called Striped Peak, bearing 
 E. by N., and distant 17 miles. The shore retreats to the southward of this line about 3 miles, 
 
THE UNITKU 8TATM COAST SURVEY. 123 
 
 having alternate blufT and low shores, with mnny little streams opening upon them, nn<l ut the 
 distance of 11 or 12 miles from Pillar Point, Lotc Point makes out at the mouth of a stream 
 called the Lvre. Rocks abound close along the shore. The kelp generally extends out to 5 
 fathoms, and the average depth of water, a mile off, is 10 fathoms. One mile before reaching 
 the western part of Striped Peak is a sunken rock, upon which the sea breaks at low water. 
 A slight fndcntation of the shore hero has received the name of Crescent bay. 
 
 Striped Peak is several huiidroa feet high, and wooded; and was doubtless named from a 
 well marked line upon its water. side, occasioned by* land slide from its summit. This mark 
 is being rapidly obliterated by the growtli of vegetation. The base of the hill towards the 
 water presents a straight line, running B. by N. for 3 miles, with deep water off it. 
 
 Freahtoaler bay. — The eastern part of Striped Peak, with several rocks off it, is called 
 Observatory Point on the Admiralty chartif, and forms the western boundary of Freshwater 
 bay. The eastern side is the low delta called Angelos Point, at the mouth of the river Elwha, 
 and the line joining the two runs E. by N. | N. 3 miles across. Inside of this line the depth 
 of the curve is about 1^ mile, with water ranging from 16 fathoms to 4 and 5 close in shore. 
 The western shore of the bay is bluff, the eiustern low, with bluff in the roar. The waters of 
 the Elwha bring down such quantities of earth that we find only 10 fatlioms water at a distance 
 of three-quarters of a mile off its mouth. 
 
 POST ANGELES OR FALSE DUNOENESS. 
 
 Four miles east of the Elwha commences a long, low, very narrow sand spit, stretcliing out 
 from the bluff in a general E.NE. direction for 3 miles, to the point called Ediz Hook, which lies 
 1^ mile off the main shore, thus forming an excellent and extensive harbor, with deep water of 
 25 to 30 fathoms, sandy bottom, close under the inside of the sand spit, almost to the head of 
 the bay. Through the centre of the bay wo found a lino of 15 fathoms, sticky bottom, and 
 between that and the main it shoals very regularly with the same kind of bottom. On the 
 outside of the spit very deep water is found close to it, and the hook may be rounded within a 
 cable's length in 25 fathoms. In the indentation between Angelos Point and the head of the 
 bay the water is shoal, 10 fathoms being found 2 miles from shore. 
 
 The Hook is covered with coarse grass, and in many places with driftwood, showing that the 
 sea sometimes washes over it. Although it lies well out of the line of vessels bound either in 
 or out of the strait, it would ba advisable to mark it with large, easily recognized beacons, or 
 to plant trees along part of it, as it cannot now be distinguished, even in good weather, until 
 a vessel is close upon it. From the middle of the strait it cannot be made out unless the 
 appearance of the bluff beyond is known. At the head of the bay is a large salt water lagoon. 
 Fresh water is found on the south shore is several places, but the extensive flats render it hard 
 to obtain. The bluff, 70 feet high, comes directly to the high water line, and is covered with 
 trees. Three Indian villages of the Clallums existed on its shores in 1852, when a secoudarj' 
 astronomical station of the Coast Survey was estjiblished near the Indian graveyard at the 
 head of the harbor. It geographical position is : 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 48 07 52.0 north. 
 
 Longitude 123 27 21 west; 
 
 h. ffl. «. 
 
 Or, in time 8 13 49.4. 
 
 From this station the extremity of Ediz Hook bears NE. by E., distant 2g miles. 
 
124 BEPOBT OP THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 The bay was first discovered by the Spaniards, and by them made known to Vancouver in 
 1791'. We first heard of its present name, False Dungeness, in 1852, when at Cape Flattery, 
 from traders there. A preliminary chart of False Dungeness was published by the Coast 
 Survey in 1853, and a second edition in 1856. 
 
 NEW DUNGENESS BAT. 
 
 The shore from Point Angeles gradually curves to the northeast" and about 8 or 9 miles from 
 Ediz Hook another long, low, narrow sand spit, covered with grass, leaves the bluff shore and 
 stretches in a general N.NE. direction for 3| miles, forming the northwestern side of the road- 
 stead of New Dungeness. On the inside, one mile from the eastern extremity, another 
 narrow sand spit makes 1^ mile southward towards the main shore, forming a large inner shoal 
 bay, with a narrow opening, through which the Avater passes as over a rapid at low tide. 
 Abreast of this point is a small stream, affording an abundance of fresh water, but boats must 
 obtain their supply at low tide, and come out when the tide has sufficiently risen. The 
 western side of this stream is a bluff 60 feet high, and upon it is a large village of the Clallums. 
 The eastern shore of the stream is low, swampy, and covered with trees and brush. It forms 
 the southern or main shore of the roadstead, and off it lie extensive mud flats, which are bare 
 at low water for five-eighths of a mile, and run as far as Washington, or Budd's liarbor. Shoal 
 water exists some distance outside of these flats. About 20 fathoms are found a quarter of a 
 mile south of the Light-house Point, the depth regularly decreasing a'cross the bay, with a soft, 
 tenacious, muddy bottom. The usual and best anchorage is to bring the light-house to bear 
 about N. by E. ^ E., half a mile distant, when 10 fathoms are found one-third of a mile, broad off 
 the beach. With the light-house bearing NW. by N. three-quarters of a mile distant the same 
 depth and bottom are found. The nearest shore will bear south 1^ mile, and the mud flat 
 three-quarters of a mile in the same direction, A southeast wind drawing out of the strait 
 blows directly into this harbor, but the bottom will hold any vessel with good ground tackle. 
 The only difficulty will be to get the anchors out of the mud after riding a couple of days to a 
 gale. In the last position a vessel can readily get under weigh and clear the point. 
 
 This point is so low that vessels bound in or out, before the erection of the light-house, 
 were upon it before they were aware of their danger. Several had run ashore on the outside 
 beach, and in 1855, while we were anchored close in, with the weather thick and hazy, a vessel 
 from Admiralty Inlet had been set oi;t of her course by the currents, and came driving in with 
 studding sails out, and only saw her mistake and danger when the black hull of our vessel 
 attracted her attention. 
 
 A shoal with 2^ fathoms makes out N.NE. from the end of the point for half a mile, and a 
 heavy tide-rip runs over it at the change of the currents. 
 
 A hydrographic sketch of New Dungeness was issued from the Coast Survey office in 1856. 
 
 LIGHT-HOUSE AT NEW DUNGENESS. 
 
 The structure is about one-sixth of a mile from the outer end of the point, and consists of a 
 keeper's dwelling of stone, Avith a tower of brick; the upper half being a dark lead color, the 
 lower half white. The tower is surmounted by an iron lantern painted red; the entire height 
 being 92 feet, and its elevation above the mean sea-level 100 feet. 
 
 The light was first exhibited December 14, 1857, and shows every night, from sunset to sun- 
 . rise, di fixed wliite light of the third order of Fresnel, which should be seen from a height of : 
 
THE nNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 125 
 
 10 feet nt a distance of 15 milos. 
 20 " " 16J " 
 
 30 ' " nj " 
 
 Its goographical position, as doteriuinod by the United States Coast Survey, is : 
 
 o ' " 
 
 Latitude 48 10 59 north. 
 
 Longitude 123 06 6T west. 
 
 h. m. 8. 
 
 Or, in time 8 12 24.5 '' 
 
 Maj^netic variation 21° 43' east, in August, 1856, with a yearly increase of 1'. 4. 
 Prom it we have the following bearings and distances : 
 
 Striped Peak SW. by W. J W., distant 21 miles. 
 Race islands west, " 18 " 
 
 VictoriaHarborNW. byW. J \V., " HJ " 
 Smith's island NE. by N. iN., " 13 
 
 Point Wilson E.b'^N., " UJ 
 
 Fog-beU at New Dungeness. — Upon the outer extremity of the point a fog-bell of 1, 100 pounds 
 weight has been placed, and will bo sounded every ten seconds during foggy or other thick 
 weather day and night. "The striking machinery is in a frame building, with the front open, 
 to receive the bell, painted black, raised 30 feet above the ground on an open structure, white- 
 washed." 
 
 Tides.-^The approximate corrected establishment is IIIA. Illm. and the approximate mean 
 rise and fall of tides 5.0 feet. 
 
 Our experience in these waters suggests that the light-house building should be painted 
 black, or a color most readily made out in foggy or smoky weather. Several years since we 
 urged the advantage of planting trees along the spit to aflford large dark maswes, that a lookout 
 might see the danger before being upon it. A few settlers are now located about the bay. 
 
 This harbor was first examined and made known by Vancouver, who applied the present 
 name, in 1792. It is known by no other. 
 
 Eastward of Dungeness the shore is indented by Washington harbor. Port Discovery, and 
 Admiralty Inlet, the northwest point of the entrance to which is Point Wilson. 
 
 WASHINGTON, OB BUDD'S HAKBOR. 
 
 Prom New Dungeness roadstead to the entrance to this harbor the immediate shore is low, 
 flat, covered with trees, and bordered by an extensive mud flat; but behind it, at a ver}' short 
 distance, rises a level plateau. The bluff at the NE. point of the harbor is seen from Dunge- 
 ness Point. The entrance of the harbor is nearly closed by a low sand spit stretching across 
 it from the east, almost to the western part, where a narrow channel way exists having two 
 fathoms through it. This cannot be seen from Dungeness Point, which is GJ miles NW., on 
 account of the outward curving of the intermediate shore. Inside of the harbor we found 17 
 fathoms. Its width is a little over a mile, and regular, its length about 3 miles, and the general 
 direction SE. by S. One mile outside of the sand spit a depth of 10 and 12 fathoms exists, 
 deepening rapidly to 30 and 35, with a bottom of stiff" mud. 
 
 This harbor was surveyed first by the United States Exploring Expedition, and called Budd's 
 harbor, but there being a sheet of water in Pnget's Sound bearing a similar name, we have 
 
126 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 adopted Kellett's appellation. The Indian name of the bay is S'quim, by which it is generally 
 known to the settlers. 
 
 Quimper, in 1790, explored the harbors abont here, as did Galiano and Valdes in 1791. 
 
 PROTECTION ISLAND. 
 
 The western extremity of this island lies E. § S., distant 7^ miles from Dungeness light- 
 house, and extends a little over a mile B. NE. , being narrow, curved outward to the strait, and 
 having a low point at each end, with shoal water stretching from the western. Its sides are 
 ■ very steep, and about 200 feet high, the seaward part covered with timber, and that towards 
 Port Discovery undulating and covered with fern. It lies two miles directly off (NW.) the 
 entrance to Port Discovery. On the inside is found very deep water, but upon the outside a 
 line of kelp, about half a mile out, marks the 4-fathom curve, and from this a bank runs out 
 N.NW. for three miles, having from 5 to 15 fathoms upon it, with a shoal spot of 3 and 4 
 fathoms two miles from the island. It affords a good anchorage with light airs and strong 
 adverse currents. The bottom is irregular and falls off suddenly. 
 
 This island, with Port Angeles and New Dungeness, 'afford the first examples of the peculiar 
 feature of low sandy and gravelly points covered with coarse grass and bushes, making out from 
 the high cliffs, where the tendency of strong currents would seem to be to cut them ofl". 
 
 It was called Protection island by Vancouver in 1792, and on account of its position in 
 relation to Port Discovery, is very aptly named. 
 
 PORT DISCOVERY. 
 
 From Dungeness light the west side of the entrance to Port Discovery, called Challam Point, 
 bears E. by S. ^ S. distant 9 miles. From Washington harbor the distance is 4 miles. The 
 intermediate shore is composed of high steep cliffs. Cape George, the eastern point of the 
 entrance, bears NE. about 1^ mile from Challam Point, and this is nearly the uniform width of 
 the bay for its entire length of 9 miles. It makes three or four courses from the entrance to 
 the head, as follows: 2 miles S. | E., 3 miles E. by S. ^ S., 2 miles S. by E. ^ E., and 2 miles 
 SW. I W. These data and the names of points are taken from the Admiralty chart, as we have 
 not the map or notes of our survey before us. The shores are abrupt and covered with, wood to 
 their edges, and the projecting parts are all terminated by low points stretching out short 
 distances. On the second point on the eastern side were (1856) the remains of an extensive 
 stockaded village of the Clallums. Mount Chatham lies off the southwestern part of the bay, 
 and reaches a height of 2, 000 feet. 
 
 When well in this bay Protection island so completely shuts up the entrance as to make it 
 appear as a large lake. The great drawback to this port is its depth of water, which in mid- 
 channel is not less in any place than 25 fathoms, and in some is 40. Under the second low 
 point on the east we could not find less than 25 fathoms a few ship' s lengths from the beachi 
 but found good anchorage in 20 fathoms, soft bottom, on the western shore 2 miles S.SE. from 
 Challam Point, and abreast of a low swampy beach. At the head of the bay it contracts in 
 width, the water shoals, a large mud flat exists for the last mile, and the shores become higher, 
 but in places the hills retreat and give a scanty space for a few settlers' cabins. For a few 
 years after the settling of San Francisco many vessels came here for piles and spars. 
 
 It was discovered in 1790 by Quimper, and called port Quadra. In 1791 the Spanish dis- 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 127 
 
 cover}' brig Sutil, SeBor Don D. Oallaiio, and tho schoonor Mexicana, SoHor Don C. Valdez, 
 refitted thoir ships here. 
 
 It was first surveyed aiid made known by Vanconver in 1792, who refitted his ships and estab- 
 lished an observatory at tho second low point on the western shore. He gave it tho present 
 namo, after one of his ships, and it is known by no other. 
 
 In 1856 wo found on tho bluff back of Chalhim Point great numbers of trees that had been 
 twisted off and uprooted by a tornado from the southeastward. The prostrated trees wore 
 plainly visible on the sloping hill side from tho bay. 
 
 Point Wilaon is tho western point of tho entrance to Admiralty Inlet. From Dungenoss light 
 it bear^E. by N., distant nearly 15 miles; this course passing over the outer edge of the 3- 
 fathom shoal off Protection island. The extremity of the point is composed of low sandy hil- 
 locks covered with coarse grass; but west of it the hill rises 200 or 300 feet, and again falls in' 
 shore. This appearance is well seen in approaching it from the strait, and is a good mark. 
 Between the point and Port Discovery tho shore is high with steep yellow cliffs, and about 
 midway a slightly projecting angle is formed, called Middle Point. To the northwest of the 
 point 15 fathoms can be obtained a mile from the shore, but the water shoals suddenly, and in 
 running in a fog the lead must be kept going. Off tho eastern end of the point 20 fathoms 
 can be got a ship's length from shore. During ebb tides a very strong eddy current sets east- 
 ward along shore between Discovery and Point Wilson. In 1855, when coming out of the inlet 
 on the lai^e ebb, with scarcely any wind, we kept outside of the rip showing the lino of the 
 eddy. A vessel two or three miles ahead was in tho eddy at the same time. We were carried 
 past Protaftion island, but she was drifted back to Point Wilson. The Indians when bound to 
 Dungeness keep well out in the ebb. 
 
 A light-house has been recommended for this point, as it presents many advantages over the 
 head on the opposite side of tho inlet. 
 
 When we were last there (1857) a small unfinished log hut, called Fort Mason, stood upon it. 
 It received its present name from Vancouver in 1792. 
 
 VANCOUVER ISLAND. 
 
 NORTH SHOBE OF THE STRAIT OP JUAN DE PUCA. 
 
 From Point Bonilla to Owen Point, forming the western head of the entrance to Port San 
 Juan, the shore runs 13 miles E. J N. It is nearly straight, rocky and bluff, with high moun- 
 tains rising immediately behind it, and all heavily wooded. From 10 to 20 fathoms are found 
 within half a mile from the shore. Vessels are apt to lose much of the wind when close undei 
 either shore, and at present it is impossible to say where the strongest currents run. 
 
 POET SAN JUAN. 
 
 The eastern head of the entrance is formed by several large rocks called Observatory Bocks 
 on the Admiralty chart of 1847. From Tatoosh island light they bear NE. by N. i N., 14 
 miles distant. The width of the bay is 1} mile from point to point, and their bearing E. { S. 
 and W. J N. from each other. The length of tlie bay is 3J miles on a general course NE. | 
 N., and the width almost uniform at Ij mile to the very head, where several streams enter, amongst 
 which are Cooper inlet at the northeast, and the river Gordon at the north, where stands a 
 
128 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 large Indian village, called Onismah. Across the entrance a depth of 10 fathoms is found, 
 except near Observatory Rocks, Avhere 17 exists close to them. Outside we find from 15 to 20; 
 and inside the bottom is very regular in 7 to 10 fathoms, up to the head, where it decreases 
 evenly to 4 within half a mile of the shore. The eastern side has the least number of rocks 
 and a mid-channel course clears every thing well. In heavy southerly Aveather a swell rolls 
 straight in, but by anchoring well up on either side vessels avoid it. The sides are steep, 
 high, and backed by heavily timbered hills and mountains. At a distance in very clear weather 
 it is diiBcult to distinguish the entrance unless one is acquainted with the locality, but in mode- 
 rately hazy weather the indentation is readily made out. 
 
 The approximate position of Observatory Rocks is: 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 48 31 30 north. 
 
 Longitude 124 28 15 west. 
 
 Meares first noted this bay in his map, and called the western point Point Hawksbury. He 
 called Bonilla Point Point Duffire, after his first officer. It was afterwards examined by the 
 Spaniards, and Vancouver stretched over to this shore and plotted it on his chart. It was 
 surveyed by the United States Exploring Expedition in 1841, and by Kellett in 1847. 
 
 From Observatory Rocks the shore preserves the same features, running east in a straight 
 line to SJieringham Point 23^ miles, Avith soundings in from 6 to 20 fathoms a milefrom shore, and 
 in some places 10 fathoms at least 2 miles ofi", then suddenly dropping into 50 and 60 fathoms. 
 From Sheringham on an E. ^ N. course to Otter^ Point the -distance is 4^ miles, with a curve in 
 the shore of one mile, but the shore is generally so uniform in its character that it i» hard to 
 recognize these points in sailing close abreast of them. 
 
 SOOKE INLET. 
 
 From Sheringham Point to Beechy Head the distance is 11^ miles, and course E. \ N. The 
 shore is varied by an indentation one mile deep, called Sooke bay, and at a distance of 4 miles 
 from Otter Point is broken ^by a very narrow, crooked entrance, which is Sooke inlet. This 
 leads to a large sheet of water 3 miles inland, called Sooke basin. One mile east of this inlet 
 is a large islet called Secretary island, and on the western side is a bright yellow bluff, from 
 which makes out a low sand spit, NE. for half a mile across the entrance. To the eastward of 
 this spit is the passage, only 100 or 200 yards wide, with an irregular and rocky bottom and 
 some sunken rocks. The cvxrrents run through with great velocity, and a thorough knowledge 
 of these and the channel is necessary to enter this place. When a depth of 10 fathoms is 
 struck off the entrance a high hill called Mount Maguire will bear about NE. It is partially 
 covered with trees, but the bare rock shows distinctly in many places, and this feature now 
 commences to distinguish this part of Vancouver island round its southeast portion. The 
 shore in many places is bare and rocky, with patches of land covered with fern and destitute of 
 trees, and the houses of settlers begin to appear. 
 
 Off Beechy Head the water is verj^ deep and the currents go by with a rush. In this 
 vicinity we recollect the instance of a cutter striking the bold shore with her flying jib-boom, 
 and only striking her forefoot after the jib-boom had been carried away. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of Beechy Head is: 
 
 O I It 
 
 Latitude 48 18 30 north. 
 
 Longitude 123 39 27 west. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 129 
 
 The pronunciation of Sooke is exactly like that of the English word "soak." The Indian 
 word is T'sok. 
 
 Beecher bay lies to the eastward of Beechy Head. Its general direction is north for about 
 a mile and a half; width about the same, and the bottom is rocky and irregular, with deep 
 water. Many rocky islets are found upon the eastern side of the bay, and two large ones at 
 the northern part. The channel runs between these with about 20 fathoms, and with from 
 7 to 10 fathoms beyond the eastern one. The eastern head is formed by Cape Church, ' This 
 bay is enclosed by high, rocky hills. 
 
 RACE ISLANDS. 
 
 From Beechy Head the outermost of these islets bears E. by N., distant 5 miles, and its 
 
 distance from Bentinck island, close under the main shore, is one mile. This cluster of islets 
 
 numbers about ten principal ones, which cover an area of not less than half a mile square. 
 
 They are low, and the larger ones are covered yvith grass, but are without trees or bushes. 
 
 Stretching SE. for half a mile, the bottom is irregular, with points of rock in 5 fathoms. The 
 
 currents rush by with great velocity and irregularity, attaining a rate of 6 miles per hour. This 
 
 is a hard place for sailing vessels when the airs are light. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of the eastern islet is: 
 
 Latitude 48° 17^' north. 
 
 Longitude 123° 32' west. 
 
 It is of the utmost importance that a light-house should be established here at an early day. 
 
 A glance at the map will demonstrate this without calling in the aid of local knowledge on the 
 
 subject. 
 
 From Race islands the strait opens to the northward, and we have the following bearings 
 
 and distances to several important positions : 
 
 Entrance of Esquimault harbor, north 8 J miles. 
 
 Entrance of Victoria harbor, N. by E. J E 9 " 
 
 Trial islands, NE. by N lOJ " 
 
 Discovery island, NE. by N 15 " 
 
 New Dungeness light, east 18 " 
 
 From Race islands the shore is very much broken to Esquimault harbor, first by a narrow, 
 
 deep indentation called Pedder bay, its northern point called William Head ; then Parry bay 
 
 and Albert Head, and just before reaching Esquimault a long, low spit with a salt lagoon 
 
 behind it. Along this shore the ebb current runs with great strength, the water being from 
 
 40 to 50 fathoms deep, and the general set on the Race islands. 
 
 Esquimault harbor is the bay where all the British men-of-war lie. It is in the deepest 
 
 part of the large indentation called Royal bay. The entrance is a quarter of a mile wide, and 
 
 has two rocky heads on either hand, the western having Fishguard island ofiF it, and the eastern 
 
 outlying sunken rocks south of it, with several islets. From the entrance the general direction 
 
 of the bay is N.NW., and the extreme length two miles. After passing the heads the harbor 
 
 opens to the east, forming a beautiful small bay, where men-of-war anchor in an uniform depth 
 
 of 6 fathoms. In the entrance are 7 and 8 fathoms, and the approaches for a mile give from 
 
 10 to 13 fathoms. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of Fishguard island is: 
 
 Latitude 48° 25' 38" north. 
 
 Longitude 123 27 10 west. 
 
 17 
 
130 KEPOET OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 At the head of the harbor is Mount Seymour. 
 
 Five miles west of the head of Esquimault bay is the head of a large bay coming from the 
 north, and opening into the inside channel to the Nahny'moh coal mines. 
 
 VICTOEIA HAEBOB. 
 
 The entrance to this harbor is 2^ miles east of Esquimault. As the channel is very con- 
 tracted, crooked, and obstructed with a 10-feet bar, vessels usually anchor outside in 10 or 15 
 fathoms, taking care to avoid Brotchy ledge, with only 7 feet water upon it, lying about half a 
 mile S.SE. of the eastern head and SW. | W. from Mount Beacon, upon which was a range 
 with one on the shore. We believe, however, that the ledge has been marked by a spar buoy 
 since our visit there. The channel inside is well marked out by buoys, but a pilot is necessary 
 to carry a vessel in. The whole length of the harbor is about 3 or 4 miles, with an average 
 width of one-fifth of a mile. It is very tortuous, and the head stretches west nearly to the 
 head of Esquimault bay, where a portage exists. 
 
 The approaches to the harbor are deep outside of Brotchy ledge, and from 20 to 10 fathoms 
 are found inside of it. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of Mount Beacon is : 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 48 24^ north. 
 
 Longitude 123 221 west. 
 
 The Hudson Bay Company have a flourishing settlement and trading establishment a mile 
 and a half within the entrance, and much of the surrounding country is well cultivated, but 
 the settlement hereabout must spread toward Esquimault, or upon that harbor, not only on 
 account of its superior excellence, but because fresh water is scarce about Victoria. 
 
 The shores are comparatively low, but rocky, and covered in part by trees, reminding one of 
 the rocky parts of the coast of Massachusetts and New Hampshire, 
 
 TEIAL ISLANDS.""' 
 
 These islands lie 4 miles E.SE. from the entrance of Victoria harbor, with a rocky, 
 irregular, and moderately low shore. The islands are small in extent, and the currrents set by 
 them with great velocity. 
 
 DISCOVEEY AND CHATHAM ISLANDS. 
 
 The former of these two islands lies 2^ miles off the southeast point of Vancouver island. 
 It is about a mile in extent, 230 feet high, partially covered with trees, and consists of granite 
 rock, which shows in places without a particle of vegetation. 
 
 Northwest of it and separated by a narrow and intricate channel full of rocks lies Chatham 
 island, (composed of several small islets,) somewhat smaller in extent, and not so high as 
 Discovery island, but similar in appearance and formation. Between these two islands and 
 Vancouver lies an extensive bay nearly filled with rocks and reefs, the main body being called 
 the Chain islands. Close around the western side of Discovery and Chatham is a channel, 
 having from 7 to 17 fathoms; but it is only fit for small craft. From the western part of 
 Chatham to Codboro' Point the distance is about three-quarters of a mile. Numerous rocks 
 show close to the point. 
 
fy 
 
 THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 131 
 
 Tho approximate geographical position of tbe centre of the island is: 
 
 Latitude 48 2G north. 
 
 Longitude 123 14 J west. 
 
 A light-bouse is much needed upon Discovery island, as marking the southwest point of the 
 southern entrance to the Canal de Hnro. 
 The islands were named by Kellett after Vancouver's two ships. 
 
 ARCHIPELAGO DE HARO. 
 
 CANAL DE HABO. 
 
 The southern entrance to this strait may be said to lie between Discovery island and the 
 point of Bellevue or San Juan Island, nearly northeast and 7 miles distant. Starting from this 
 line and about three miles from Discoverj-, a course NW. by N. for 16 miles will run through 
 the first stretch of the strait; thence an abrupt turn is made towards the eastward, and the 
 way out can be readily seen between the islands. Tho next course is NE. \ E. for 11 miles; 
 finally, N.NW. 2J miles, and a run of 7 miles on that course will carry a vessel into the middle 
 of the Gulf of Georgia. i 
 
 Commencing at the starting point, we have Bellevue island on the eastward and pass it at 
 the distance of \\ mile. Its mountains rise to 1,070 feet, and some of them are only partially 
 covered with wood. The bluffs are very precipitous and inaccessible, and the depth of water 
 close to them is as much as 150 fathoms. The greater extent of the strait is to the westward, 
 stretching off into bays and passages among the islands. Cordova bay is the only available 
 anchorage about this entrance. It commences at Gordon Head, 5^ miles NW. by W. \ W. 
 from Discovery island; then stretches westward for 2 miles, and gradually curves to the N.NW., 
 with a long high bluff, broken and bright, at CowicMn Head.* Back of the southwest part of 
 the bay rises a bold rockj'-topped hill, (called Mount Douglas by the Coast Survey parties, ) 
 which reaches a height of 690 feet. Fresh water is obtainable on the southern shores of the 
 bay. The northern limit of the bay is Darcy island, N. J W. 4 miles from Gordon Head, and 
 on this course and 1| miles from the Head is Zero Rock,' a small white rock, showing a few feet 
 above water, with plenty of water around it, but foul bottom and a patch of kelp a few hundred 
 yards N.NW. of it. A mile and a quarter west of it is a sunken rock. In the bay a depth of 
 not over 20 fathoms is found, decreasing irregularly in advancing, but in the southern portion 
 affording capital holding ground in 10 fathoms. A mile and a half B.SE. from Gordon Head are 
 patches of kelp and foul bottom 
 
 When 8 J miles within the entrance the width of the strait decreases to 3 J miles, having 
 Darcy island (low and wooded) on the west, with a small islet off its NE. face, and very large 
 fields of kelp stretching far off the southeast point into the Canal. In pne of these fields we 
 discovered in 185^a sharp pointed rock, which has been called Unit Bnck', lying N. 72° E. from 
 the SE. point of Darcy island, and distant from it three-quarters of a mile. The small sharp 
 apex of this rock rises about three feet above the very lowest tides. In tho most recent charts 
 deep water is placed around it, and when the coast surveying brig beat through the field the 
 existence of this danger was unknown. Near mid-channel a depth of 155 fathoms is found. 
 
 ° The Indian name for the tribe in this Tictnitjr. 
 
132 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 The island to the eastward, nearly abreast of Darcy, with a small cove at its southern end, is 
 Henry idand* having a high, rocky precipitous front, and a swirling current around it. 
 Further on and to the westward is the southeast end of Sidney islands, 1\ mile northward of 
 Darcy with the Dot Rocks between them but nearer Sidney. This island is not high like those 
 on the other side of the channel, and a landing is easily made at any point. The channel here, 
 10 miles from the entrance, is 2| miles wide. To the eastward it opens beyond the north end 
 of Henry island, with high mountainous islands bounding the view. To the westward lie a 
 couple of long narrow islands a mile from Sidney, and between them and the latter is good 
 anchorage and capital fishing ground for halibut. The moderately low wooded islands 3 or 4 
 miles ahead, and on the western side of the channel, have not been named. Between them 
 runs the inside channel for steamers to the Nahnymoh coal mines. The background of the 
 view is occupied by wooded islands, overlapping each other and appearing like a continuous 
 shore. The large high island on the eastern side, 15 miles from the entrance is Stuart island* 
 and the Canal is here contracted to a breadth of only two miles, this being the narrowest 
 part. In this pass no bottom was found with 165 fathoms of line. Stuart island in many places 
 is very high and precipitous, and covered with timber, but in some parts sparsely. Near its 
 southwest head a perpendicular wall of rock serves also to distinguish it. After passing the 
 western end of this island at the distance of a mile, the channel takes an abrupt turn to the 
 eastward, and the Gulf of Georgia is seen. The course now is NE. ^ E. for 11 miles, having 
 on the northwest side Saturna island, which rises into mountains. Java Head* near its 
 eastern extremity, stands up perpendicularly many hundred feet, but the extreme part, called 
 East Point* is a long sloping point, in many places destitute of trees. The small island 
 lying off its north shore is Tumbo.* 
 
 On the east side the waters open well to the southeast, and the islands rise in high hills and 
 mountains. The large island abreast of Java Head is Waldron, * which has good anchorage 
 off its southwest side, where the shore-line curves well in. The western point is low and sandy; 
 the southern, called Point Disney* is perpendicular, high and rocky. Off its northern face 
 lie two islets, called Skipjack islands* The western one is about a mile from Waldron, 
 moderately high, and wooded; the eastern is smaller, about 40 feet high, destitute of trees, 
 but covered with grass, and lies a mile east of the former. Between these lies a sunken rock, 
 and the current rushes by with great velocity. 
 
 On some recent maps two islands, called Adolphus and George, are laid down close to the 
 Skipjacks, but in 1853 we examined the vicinity and satisfied ourselves that they did not then 
 exist. 
 
 When East Point bears NW. by W. | W. 2 miles distant, the west end oi Patos island, f will 
 bear N.NE. 2 J miles, and the west end of the Si^ia Group,-]: E.NE. 85 miles; the course out 
 lying N.NW. between Patos and East Point, which are 2| miles apart. Seven miles on this 
 course carries to the middle of the Gulf of Georgia.^ Close ofl'East Point is found a depth of 
 120 fathoms, and off Patos island 170 fathoms. All these islands are moderately high and 
 covered with wood. They are rugged and irregular, composed of sandstone and conglomerate, 
 upheaved until the strata are nearly perpendicular in some places, and interspersed with small 
 veins of lignite. 
 
 ° Named by the United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 
 f Old Spanish name. 
 
 t Named by Vancouver in 1792. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 138 
 
 The approximate geographical position of two or three points will serve to check the courses 
 above given : , • 
 
 East point of Discovery island— latitude 48° 25' N., longitude 123° 14, W. 
 
 West point of Stuart island— latitude 48° 41' 11". 5 N., longitude 123° 14' 29". 6 W. 
 
 West point of Patos island— latitude 48° 4T 03" N., longitude 122° 57' 31".2 W. 
 
 The number of islands and the intricate channels lying between the two straits we shall not 
 attempt to describe. A proper appreciation of them can only be obtained from the chart. 
 The position of the islands are shown on sketches issued from the Coast Survey Office in 1854 
 and 1858. 
 
 Returning to the Strait of Fuca to enter the Rosario strait, we notice, first, Smith' a island, 
 lying at the eastern termination of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, within 6 miles of Whidbey island 
 and 7 miles broad oflf the southern entrance to the Rosario strait. It is quite small, not 
 occupying half a square mile, and rises regularly from the eastern to the western extremity, 
 where it attains a height of about 55 feet, with an almost perpendicular clifi" of clay and gravel. 
 It sustains a few droarj- looking trees, but none of great thickness or height, and the surface 
 is covered with a growth of bushes ten or twelve feet high. There is no fresh water to be found 
 on the island, and two or three feet below the surface is a stratum of hard dry clay wth pebbles. 
 
 A very small, low islet called Minor, exists one mile northeast of Smith' s island, and at very 
 low tides is connected with it by a narrow ridge of boulders and rocks. A field of kelp extends 
 to the westward for 1 J mile, and has a width of a mile. In sailing through this field we found 
 the depth of water very uniform at 6^ fathoms, and in no place did we get less. The bottom 
 is hard and sandy. Another smaller field is seen to the westward of the one just mentioned. 
 Good anchorage is found on the north side of the island, east of the kelp, in from 10 to 5 
 fathoms, and on the south side, east of the kelp, in from 10 to 8 fathoms, hard bottom. We 
 parted our cable here in a southeast gale, but the smooth sandy bottom enabled us afterwards 
 to secure the anchor. Ofi" the eastern end of the small islet very deep water is found close 
 to it. 
 
 The light-house on Smith's island is a structure consisting of a keeper's dwelling, with a 
 tower rising through it, and surmounted by an iron lantern painted red. Its height is 41^ feet 
 above the snrface of the ground and about 90 feet above the mean level of the sea. The 
 dwelling and tower are plastered and whitewashed, and situated on the highest part of the 
 island, near the southwest point. All the trees have been cut down, to afi'ord a clear horizon 
 in every direction. The illuminating apparatus is of the fourth order of Fresnel, shows a 
 revolving white light, with a flash every half minute, and should be seen from a height of — 
 
 10 feet at a distance of 14^ miles. 
 20 " " 16 " 
 
 30 *' " 17 " 
 
 It was first exhibited on the 18th of October, 1858, and shows from sunset to sunrise. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of the light, as determined by the Coast Survey, is: 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 48 19 R" nortli. 
 
 Longitude 122 50 01 west. 
 
 A. m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 8 11 20.1 
 
 The light shows into the entrances of Canal de Haro, Rosario strait, and Admiralty Inlet, 
 and out into the Strait of Juan de Fuca. 
 
134 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OP 
 
 The following bearings and distances will show the relative position of Smith' s island : 
 
 From Diicovery island it lies East 16^ miles. 
 
 From New Dungeness light-house NE. by N. 13| " 
 
 From Point Wilson NW. ^ N. 11 " 
 
 Prom southwest point of the entrance to Rosario strait • • • • S. ^ E. 6f " 
 
 On the maps of the United States Exploring Expedition it is called Blunt' s island; but it is 
 now known by the name we have used, which is also that given on the Admiralty charts. 
 
 Fields of kelp. — Three miles S. -J E. of Smith's island is a field of kelp over a mile long 
 by a mile wide. Through it the soundings range from 6 to 12 fathoms, and the bank stretches 
 off to the E.SE. for two miles, with 10 and 12 fathoms upon it. This locality requires sounding 
 out, as it would prove a great advantage for vessels drifting at the mercy of the currents to 
 know of the existence of such anchoring grounds. The detailed hydrography of all this sheet 
 of water eastward of the Race islands will develop many interesting features of bottom. 
 
 Bearing W. ^ S. from Smith's island, and eight miles distant, is another field of kelp nearly a 
 mile in extent. We came unexpectedly upon it at night, in 1854, during a heavy blow, with 
 rain. It was not then marked on any chart. Next morning we sounded through it, and found 
 the depth of water very uniform at 5 fathoms. 
 
 The field laid down on the Admiralty chart — nearly on this course, and four miles from 
 Smith's island, having only 2 fathoms marked upon it — has been sought for, but not found. 
 
 One mile south of the southeastern point of Bellevue island, and 8^ miles NW. by W. ^ W. 
 from Smith' s island, lies a small field of kelp about half a mile square, with 3 fathoms marked 
 upon it; but we have been informed that the Hudson Bay Company's steamer Otter found as 
 little as 6 feet of water with its limits. 
 
 All these fields and patches of kelp should be avoided, as they denote rocky bottom; and 
 isolated points of rocks frequently exist among them and escape even a very scrutinizing 
 survey. 
 
 Shoals. — E. by N. 5| miles from Discovery island, and S. by W. ^ W. 4^ miles from the 
 Hudson Bay Company's settlement on Bellevue island, is an 11-fathom shoal a mile or two in 
 extent; but the very few soundings upon it leave the precise extent and smallest depth of water 
 doubtful. 
 
 NE. ^ N. 7^ miles from Race islands, and SE. by S. 4 miles from the entrance to Victoria 
 harbor, are a couple of spots showing 13 and 14 fathoms. 
 
 Off Point Partridge* (the western head of Whidbey island) is a 10-fathom bank, with muddy 
 bottom. We have run across it and found this depth, but the locality has not been sounded out. 
 
 ROSARIO STRAIT. 
 
 This is the eastern of the two principal channels running through the Archipelago de Haro, 
 between Vancouver island and the main. Its southern entrance lies N. by E., distant 7 miles 
 from Smith's island, and is 4^ miles wide. The western point of the entrance is formed by a 
 point running out from Watmough Head,\ which is 450 feet high and on the southeast part of 
 Lopez island. Off this point lie several rocky islets, with deep water among them and a rushing 
 current. The outer, orv^outheast island, is about 50 feet high, rocky, flat-topped, destitute of 
 bush or tree, narrow, and about one-third of a mile in length, east and west. S. 83° E. from 
 
 ° Named by Vancouver, 1792. 
 t Named by the United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 8UBVBY. 185 
 
 it, at a distance of half a mile, lies Entrance Sock, possibly bare at the lowest tides. A. patcb 
 of kelp exists upou and around it, but the kelp is goncrally run under the surface of the water 
 by the strength of the current. Wo discovered this rock in 1854. 
 
 The whole southern face of Lopez island is guarded by rocks and reefs. The island itself is 
 very rocky and moderately low. 
 
 On the eastern side of the entrance is a small wooded islet called Deception island, at the 
 mouth o[ Deception pass \* an intricate and very narrow 3-fathom channel, 3 miles long, running 
 between the north end of Whidbey island and the south end of Fidalgo island. In 1841 the 
 United States brig Bainbridge passed through it from the eastward. It is the Boca de Flon of 
 Quimper, 1790, but is now known onlj- by the apt designation given above. 
 
 In the middle of the entrance to Rosario strait Vancouver anchored in 37 fathoms, black 
 muddy bottom, in 1792. 
 
 When at the entrance, and 1^ mile from the western side, a line will pass clear of everj'thing 
 from one end of the strait to the other. This course is N. by W. i W., distant 19^ miles to 
 the north entrance. It passes between Bird and Belle Rocks, and almost tangent to Point 
 Lawrence, on Orcas island. Taking the courses through the mid-channel we should have the 
 following: NW. by N. | N. for llj miles; N. by E. | E. for 3| miles; and NW. I W. for 6^ 
 miles — making a total of 20^ miles. 
 
 The first two miles on the western side is moderately high, declining to a point, a quarter of 
 a mile off which lies Kellett's ledge, bare at the lowest tides, and having deep water all aroimd 
 it. The ledge is marked by a mass of kelp. Thence the shore makes a deep bend for a mile 
 to the westward, with a low beach and marsh, over which Lopez bay can be seen. This bend 
 is called Shoal bight, and has from 6 to 10 fathoms for a mile out, with level sandy bottom. In 
 mid-channel rise the Bird Bocks,* about 40 feet high, consisting of three small rocky islets very 
 close together, and running in a north direction. They are somewhat pyramidal in form, and 
 during the summer show yellowish, on account of the parched grass and the color of the rocks. 
 Abreast of them, on the western side, is a narrow opening between two low rockj' heads of 
 Lopez and Decatur islands.* Inside is a line of islets ranging from the north head, and making 
 the channel nm towards the south. This barrier is called the Lopez Chain, and the entrance 
 the Lopez Pass. Several large islands are found inside. Vancouver's boats evidently were in 
 this bay, aa his chart gives a good general idea of it. The anchorage of Shoal bight continues 
 some distance northward of this opening, and abreast of some moderately high white bluffs. 
 N.NE. three-quarters of a mile from Bird Rocks lies Belle Bockyf directly in mid-channel, 
 making a very dangerous position. It shows 4 feet above the very lowest tides, and is covered 
 by a patch of kelp, which is, however, generally run under by the strength of the currents. 
 The rip upou it can sometimes be seen when the water is smooth, but with light winds and 
 high tides its existence would not be stispected. On all sides of it the water is very deep. 
 The extent of rock above water is about 20 feet square. We discovered this danger in 1854, 
 and while placing » signal upon it noticed that the tide rose nearly IJ foot while the current 
 was yet running ebb at the rate of 3 miles an hour. Between it and the Bird Rocks there is a 
 submarine ridge with plenty of water, but marked by strong eddies. The steamship Republic 
 lately ran upon this rock, and more recently the pilot-boat Potter. 
 
 After passing Deception island on the east the face of Fidalgo island is high, precipitous, 
 
 o Named by the United BUtM Ezploriog Expedition, 
 t Named by the United Stetw Ooact Surrey, 1864. 
 
136 KEPOET OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 and bare for two or three miles in a northwest direction. This is called Sares Head.* It then 
 sweeps to the north, changing to the westward until abreast of and two miles from Belle Rock. 
 In this deep bay, and lying well off shore, are, first, Williamson's Bocks,* a cluster of rocky 
 islets about 40 feet high, with deep water close around them. From Deception island they 
 bear NW. | W. 3 miles distant, and from Southeast island off Watmough Head, NE. 5 miles. 
 Half a mile northward of them is AUan island,* which is about three-quarters of a mile in extent, 
 and about 200 feet high, with its southern face partly bare. A quarter of a mile off its SW. 
 face lies the Denis Bock.* This is never bare, but its position is marked by a patch of kelp. 
 
 North of Allan island, and separated from it by a channel a quarter of a mile wide, is 
 Burrow's island,* 1^ mile long SE. and NW. by half a mile in width. The island is several 
 hundred feet high and has a remarkably flat top, is wooded, and may be seen from the Strait of 
 Fuca. At the eastern end of the passage, between the last two islands, is a small one called 
 Young island.* Through all the channels formed by these islands a good depth of water exists, 
 and no dangers have been discovered. 
 
 The breadth of Rosario strait at Belle Rock is i\ miles ; but it is soon contracted by Janve^ 
 island* on the western side, and opens into a channel N.NE. called the Bdlingham channel, f 
 which is about 2 miles wide at its entrance. A small channel runs from it more to the eastward 
 along the north shore of Fidalgo island, and leads into Padilla bay. Upon Fidalgo rises Mount 
 Erie* to a height of 1, 250 feet, covered with woods, and presenting a flat appearance from 
 certain directions. James' island consists of two heads a mile apart and 250 feet high, but 
 connected by a narrow ridge. The southern head is the higher, and not very heavily tim- 
 bered. Close to the west of the ridge lies another head, connected with Decatur island by a 
 low sand beach. 
 
 Just beyond James' island is an opening on the west between Decatur island and Blakely 
 island,* and on the east half, a mile up the strait, appears the SW. point of Cypress island,* 
 off which lie rocks and foul bottom for half a mile on a line to Burrow's island. Around this 
 locality extends a large body of kelp. The southern face of Cypress island consists of alternate 
 perpendicular white cliffs, and sloping ground covered with fern or trees. On its western side, 
 and Ij mile from the southwest point is found a snug little harbor called Strawberry hay,X which 
 is formed by the retreating of the shore-line, and an outlying rocky islet called Strawberry or 
 Hautboy island.* In this bay excellent anchorage is found in from 6 to 10 fathoms, muddy 
 bottom. Good fresh water is plenty here. A high white cliff is seen to the south of the 
 harbor, from the shores of which rise rapidly the Lake mountains, § to an elevation of 1,525 feet, 
 and among whose peaks we found two large sheets of fresh water. These peaks are very 
 noticeable from the Strait of Fuca, and being connected by comparatively low ridges with other 
 hills on the island they present a saddle-like appearance from the southward and westward. 
 
 Abreast of Strawberry island the channel contracts to a width of l^ mile, where the bold 
 rocky face of Blakely island rises to a height of between 900 and 1,000 feet. Nearly half a 
 mile SE. from its east face lies a very small low rock called Blaak Bock, and half way between 
 it and the south end of the island is a wMte rock, a quarter of a mile from the shore. In this 
 narrow part of the strait the depth of water is about 60 fathoms, and the current goes through 
 
 o Named by the United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 
 f The Indian name ig Tut-segh. 
 
 X Named by Vancouver, 1792. The Indian name is Tutl-ke-teh-nug. 
 
 § Named by the United States Coast Survey, 1854. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SUBVEV. 137 
 
 with a roar like tho sonnd of a gale of wind through a forest. When at anchor in 10 fathoms, 
 under the low point IJ mile north of Strawberry island, wo found tho current 4 miles per hour, 
 and swirling so much that tho vessel had to be steered to prevent her breaking her sheer. 
 Thenco on tho strait widens upward, and at tho north end of Blakely, 2 miles above Strawberry 
 island, two channels load to tho westward around Obstruction island,* which lies between 
 Blakely and Orcas islands. Both are narrow, and off the entrance to the south lie some sunken 
 rocks, and others above water. Blakely island and Orcjis island are three-quarters of a milo 
 apart. 
 
 When in the narrowest part of Rosario strait, a very marked perpendicular rocky peak is 
 seen to tho north over the low point of Cypress, and soon shows rising abruptly from tho 
 water's edge to a height of 750 feet. It is called Bald Pcak.t Abreast of it the channel 
 takes the first turn, changing its course to N. by E. J E., for 3| miles. Half a mile off tho 
 north end of Cypress island is a small islet covered with trees ai.d called Rock island. t NW. 
 of it are some sunken rocks, but their exact position is not accurately known. The compara- 
 tively low island half a mile N.NE. of Cypress is Sinclair island,* the highest part of which is 
 towards the eastern end. Off tho northwest face of Sinclair island, and stretching half a mile, 
 is Boulder Reef,t visible at extreme low tides. It is covered with kelp, which is, however, 
 generally kept under the surface of the water by strong currents. A huge erratic granite 
 boulder is seen at ordinary tides inside of the outer point of the reef, and bears from it S. 70*^ 
 E., distant 500 yards. From the western point of the island the reef bears exactly north, 
 distant three-quarters of a milo. The revenue cutter Jefferson Davis and the steamship 
 Panama have been upon it since we discovered it in 1854. On the north side of the island is 
 anchorage in 10 to 15 fathoms half a mile off shore. 
 
 Three miles from Sinclair island lies Orcas, on tho northwest side of the strait. It is a largo 
 island, with a mountain 1,120 feet high near its southern end. The point stretching furthest 
 and coming down to the water is Point Lawrence,* and tlio low, treeless islets and reef passed 
 IJ mile before reaching this point, and lying over half a mile off shore, are the Poapods.* 
 Deep water is found close to them. When upon this same mid-channel course, the island ahead 
 is Lummi UHand.% Its southern half is very much higher than the northern, and attains an 
 elevation of 1,560 feet. The rock nearly 100 feet high off tho highest part of the ridge, and 
 a third of a mile from shore, is the Lummi Rock,X and a capital bout harbor is found on its 
 northwest side. A mile off its south end are the Viti Rocks,* about 25 feet high, with plenty 
 of water around them. 
 
 Abreast of Point Lawrence the channel is over 3 miles wide, and it there changes to NW. \ 
 W. for 6J miles to a line joining the Mntia group with the north end of Lummi island. From 
 Point Lawrence, along the north face of Orcas, the shore is rocky and precipitous, and rises by 
 two or throe plateaux to Mount Constitution,* which is less than a mile in-shore, and 2,397 feet 
 high. The course out passes on tho west some small rocky islets called The Sisters,* marked 
 by one or two stunted fir trees; then Clark's island* and Barnes' island,* close under its western 
 side, leaving a channel a mile wide between it and the north shore of Orcas, with very deep 
 
 'Named by the United SUitt Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 
 t Named by the Coaat Survey in 1854. The Indian name for Bald Peak is Sheh-ong-Uh, dgniiying the home of the 
 Thunder bird. 
 
 {Named by the Ooaat Surrey in 1864. 
 
 { Named by the United Stetea Coait Survey, 1853. 
 
 18 
 
138 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 water and no anchorage. Abreast of Clark's island, or Lummi island, is a contracted anchorage 
 and shelter from northerly winds under a low point called Village Point.* The anchorage is 
 in 10 to 15 fathoms, but there is no fresh water, and the large Indian village is now deserted. 
 After passing this point, anchorage may be obtained half a mile from shore in from 8 to 15 
 fathoms. Close to Clark's and Barnes' islands the depth is 50 and 60 fathoms, and a very 
 strong current runs near them. The channel between Village Point and these islands is two 
 miles wide. 
 
 W. SW. of the north end of Lummi island, and 4 miles distant, are three islands very close 
 together, called the Matia group. A mile and a half to the westward of them lies the Sucia 
 group, consisting of one large and six small islands, with a reef off the north side of the group, 
 and a beautiful harbor a mile long and half a mile wide, opening to the east, and carrying from 
 10 to 15 fathoms sticky mud bottom, t To the westward of this group lies Patos island, and a 
 much smaller one close to its SW. point. The eastern point of Patos island bears W. | S., 9 
 miles from the north end of Lummi. Two or three miles N.NE. of Lummi island opens a shoal 
 bay, backed by low marshy ground which is covered with trees and swamp undergrowth. Into 
 it empties one or two mouths of the Lummi river. The main entrance of that stream is at the 
 north part of the bay, and can be reached with boats only at high tide. The NW, boundary 
 of the bay is a low grassy point with a few bushes upon it, called Sandy Point. X From the 
 north point of Lummi island it bears N. by W. ^ W., distant 2| miles. Between these two points 
 anchorage is had in from 4 to 6 fathoms, but the south end of Sandy Point should not be 
 approached within less than half a mile. Down the east side of Lummi island, which is about 
 a mile in breadth, runs Hale' s Passage, J three quarters of a mile wide. It leads from Bellingham 
 bay. In this passage 1^ mile, and bearing E. by S. ^ S. from the north end of Lummi island, 
 is a low sandy point, upon which was established in 1853 a secondary astronomical station of the 
 United States Coast Survey. Its geographical position is — 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude 48 44 01.7 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 40 36.9 west. 
 
 h. m. a. 
 
 Or, in time 8 10 42.5. 
 
 This would place the north end of Lummi island in — 
 
 O / II 
 
 Latitude 48 44 53.2 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 42 11.9 west. 
 
 The following geographical positions will serve to check the courses and distances we have 
 given: 
 
 Matia island, east, latitude 48° 44' 36". 8 north. 
 " longitude 122° 48' 28". 6 west. 
 South end of Strawberry island, latitude 48° 33' 34''. 3 north. 
 
 longitude 122° 43' 26". 7 west. 
 SE. island, off Lopez island, latitude 48° 24' 53". 3 north. 
 
 longitude 122° 48' 33".9 west. 
 Shoal. — From the north point of Lummi an extensive 5-fathom shoal bears W. by N. 5 N. 
 
 " Named by the tJnitcd States Coast Survey, 1854. 
 
 ■f Partially examined by a Coast Survey party in 1858. 
 
 t Named by the United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 139 
 
 5J miles, and NW. by N. J N. S.J miles from tlio eastern of the Matia group. It lies upon the 
 last direct course out of the strait, but has not been completely sounded out. Within tho 
 15-fathom curve it is at least two miles square, and may bo used when a vessel loses the wind 
 and has a strong adverse current; but the swirls and eddies upon and around it will bo very 
 apt to foul any anchor. 
 
 From about its middle part wo have tho following bearings of prominent objects: 
 
 Eastern of Matia group, SE. by S. J S. 3J miles. 
 
 North point of Lammi island, E. by S. ^ S. 5^ miles. 
 
 NW. point of Sucia group, with tho wooded island of the Skipjacks just open, SW. J S. 4 
 miles. 
 
 This position will bring tho west side of Clark's island just on with Point Lawrence. 
 
 The shoal was discovered by tho United States Coast Survey in 1853. 
 
 In 1857 wo attempted to reach this bank four or five times, from an anchorage off Uale's 
 Passage, with light airs, but tho cnrrent.s invariably swept us away from it. Recently it has 
 been anchored upon by the United States Coast .Surveying brig. 
 
 Once in the Gulf of Georgia, through either channel, the throe-mile face and timber-covered 
 bluffs of Point Roberts* (showing almost as an island) is seen to the northwest. On the west 
 the mountains of Vancouver and its bordering islands rise np precipitously, and on tho eastern 
 or main shore a series of wooded cliffs 200 feet high. Far to the eastward tho Cascade Range 
 is seen rising above intermediate ridges, with the snow-covered summit of Mount Baker, t which 
 bears its head 10,500 feet above the level of the sea. To the W.NW. stretch tho waters of 
 tho Gulf of Georgia, 9 miles wide, abreast of Point Roberts, where it is narrowest, but spreading 
 out to 20 miles and having a length of 120. A short distance above tho 49th parallel it receives 
 Fraser's river, (the third groat stream of tho northwest coast,) tho branches of which spread 
 towards the Cascade Range of mountains. 
 
 GULF OF GEORGiA.t 
 
 If bound up the Gulf, hold well to the eastern shore to avoid the rushing currents, and to take 
 the chances of an anchorage if the wind fails. 
 
 From Sandy Point to Point WhUeliorn* the general trend of the shore is NW. \ W., and tho 
 distance 7 miles. The shore is a steep bluff, about 150 feet high, and covered with wood. At 
 Whitehorn the face of the point is worn away by the action of the sea, and shows bright, with 
 rocks at its base. 
 
 BIBCH BAT. 
 
 The southern point of this fine bay is Point Whitehorn, and the northwest shore is formed 
 by a long rounding high bluff, bearing about NW. from Whitehorn, and distant 3 miles. The 
 bay runs N.NE. 2.J miles, with a width of IJ. The bottom is very uniform, with capital holding 
 ground of soft mud in from 4 to 10 fathoms. Inside tho immediate shores are low, and edged 
 with marshy patches, thick undergrowth, and heavy wood. No directions are ne<;e8sary for 
 entering, as there is a depth of 16 to 20 fathoms a mile outside, and 10 fathoms water on the 
 line of the entrance. During the heaviest southeast weather no swell is felt here in a 
 properly selected anchorage. We searched for fresh water, but found none in the space of more 
 than a mile along its southeastern side. 
 
 o Named by the United SUto* Exploring Expoclltion, 1841. 
 t Nuned \tj Vanconrer, 1792. 
 
140 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 The approximate geographical position of Point Whitehorn is — 
 
 o / 
 
 Latitude 48 53^ north. 
 
 Longitude 122 47^ west. 
 
 It received its present name in 1792 from Vancouver, who placed it in latitude 48° SS^'. — 
 (See Vol. 1, pp. 315, 316.) 
 
 This is the furthest point northward to which our personal examinations have extended. 
 
 Passing the bluff NW. of Birch bay the shore trends about N.NE. for nearly 3 miles, and 
 terminates in a long, low, sandy point, behind which lies a small land-locked harbor, having a 
 depth of 10 fathoms inside. The approaches to it, however, do not show over 5 fathoms at a 
 distance of a mile from the shore, and the same depth is found on gradually nearihg the end of 
 the low point. The southeast shore of the harbor is flat and marshy, and is not separated by 
 much more than a mile from Birch bay. 
 
 In this harbor the United States and British steamers attached to the Northwestern Bound- 
 ary Survey were accustomed to anchor (1857.) The American commissioner encamped on the 
 bluff about a mile north of the boundary, the site having been selected on account of fresh 
 water, but it has an extensive flat in front. 
 
 Stretching to the northwest is a large shallow marshy bay, fringed with trees and bushes. 
 From its northern shore lowland extends as far back as Eraser's river. The western boundary 
 of the bay is formed by the eastern shore of Point Roberts. 
 
 POINT ROBERTS. 
 
 The southwestern extremity of this point is low, and bears west 12 or 13 miles from Point 
 Whitehorn. Its approximate position is consequently— 
 
 Latitude 48 58 north; ^^^^ ^ 
 
 Longitude 123 05 west, t-5-of 
 
 or about two miles below the boundary of the United States. 
 
 On the outer or Gulf of Georgia side of Point Roberts the shore runs about NW. 9 or 10 
 miles to the southern and principal mouth of Eraser's river. Tiie south front runs E.NE. 3 
 miles, and presents for nearly the entire distance a bold bluff about 250 feet high, and covered 
 with wood. Haifa mile off this shore anchorage may be had in from 10 to 15 fathoms, but in 
 southerly weather it must be avoided. The eastern shore of the point runs nearly parallel with 
 the western for 4 or 5 miles. 
 
 A coast survey hydi'ographic reconnaissance was made of this vicinity in 1857. 
 
 BRITISH COLUMBIA. 
 
 After leaving the shores of the Gulf the channel passes through an extensive flat, partially 
 bare at low water, and stretching 5 or 6 miles off shore. The channel is very crooked, and no 
 buoys mark its course. Practicable ranges and marks, moreover, are too distant to be of use, 
 and hence the lead must be relied upon entirely. Two or three American river steamers now 
 ply upon the river. Its current is said to have a velocity of from 5 to 8 miles per hour. 
 
 The river was discovered by the Spaniards in 1790; and Galiano informed Vancouver (1792) 
 
THE XJNITBD STATES COAST SURVEY. 141 
 
 that it was called tho Rio Blancho, in honor of the then prime minister of Spain, but that it 
 had been searched for in vain. It receives its present name from its explorer. 
 Tho shoal off it Vancouver called Sturgeon Bank. 
 
 NANAIHO BAT. 
 
 This bay lies on Vancouver island beyond the 49th parallel, and wo refer to it because sup- 
 plies of coal (lignite) arc there obtained by many steamers. 
 
 The outer entrance to tho harbor is in latitude 49° 12' north, longitude 123" 51' west, and 
 bears W. J N. 33 miles from Point Roberts. From the cntmnco tho mid-chainiol course nnis 
 S. J W. 5 miles, passing a small island on tho northwest at the distance of a mile, and a largo 
 island, with islets ofl' Us north point, throe-qimrters of a milo on the east. This course gradually 
 approaches Douglas island on tho west, abreast of a wide channel to the east, and is rounded 
 quite close. The mines will then lie about W.SW. a mile distant, with a small islet in front of 
 them. The bottom is uneven; some sunken rocks occur, and the anchorage near the rivers is 
 so contracted that vessels must moor. Pilots will be found hero to take vessels in. 
 
 The price of the coal per ton is about six dollars, but it is light; occupies one-fifth more space 
 than Welsh coal; burns rapidly with flame and much smoke; disengages a great deal of gas, and 
 prtxluces clinker in abundance. It is, however, superior to the coal of Bellingham bay. 
 
 The usual spelling of this name is Nanaimo, but that best representing tin- soniid is Nali-ny'- 
 moh. 
 
 Of the western shores of the Gulf of Georgia we cin say but little. The currents rush past 
 its precipitous shores with great velocity, and quite recently the coast surveying brig drifted, 
 with 38 fathoms of chain at her bows, in a calm, for miles along and within 80 yards of the 
 rocks before she brought up. In one or two instances preceding this the lead indicated bottom 
 in 10 fathoms, the next cast showing 40 or 60 fathoms. 
 
 ARCHIPELAGO DE HARO. 
 
 THE TWO STRAITS. 
 
 The experience of three season's surveying in this immediate locality has not increased our 
 relish for navigating these channels in sailing vessels. With plenty of wind no navigation could 
 be better, but in a calm vessels will frequently bo jammed close to rocks, with only a few 
 fathoms inside of their positions, but 40 or 50 outside, and a swirling current that-renders 
 towing with boats utterly impossible. Frequently, too, boats have been nearly swamped by 
 the tide rips that exist through tii»m. OfT East Point, as an instance, a five-oared whale boat 
 entirely failed in trying to hold her own against the current, which we judged to be rushing 
 (the only term applical)Ic) at the rate of 7 miles per hour. Throughout the Canal de Ilaro tho 
 roar of the conflicting currents can be heard for miles, and the main current runs frequently 6 
 miles per hour. No anchorages exist in this channel except at Cordova bay, but it is free of 
 known hidden dangers except Unit Bock, off Darcy island. It is 10 miles longer than tho 
 Rosario Strait, and makes a right angle in its course, but is a mile wider. Rosario Strait is less 
 curved, has several anchorages and known dangerous rocks, and a current of about IJ mile less 
 per hour. For steamers either channel, or even some of tho narrow intermediate channels may 
 be used; but for a sailing vessel the Rosario Passage is preferable, although tho total distance 
 from the middle of the Strait of Juan dc Fuca to tho middle of tho Gulf of Georgia is 5 miles 
 longer. The winds are apt to fail in both channels, and during summer frequent calms proviiil. 
 
142 EEPOfiT OP THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 We never heard thunder in this Territory except in one instance, at Cypress island, in Rosario 
 Strait. 
 
 BELLINGHAM BAY, (WASHINGTON TERRITOEY.). 
 
 Before passing to a description of Admiralty Inlet we will notice this bay, as mines of coal 
 (lignite) have been opened upon its shores. 
 
 After leaving Rosario Strait, the course upon entering the jchanuel, two miles wide, opening 
 south of Cypress island, is NE. for 2 miles. The width then decreases to a mile upon turning 
 sharp around the SE. point of Cypress, and to the eastward are seen the bright bluffs of Ouemes 
 island. Between these two islands the channel runs about 3 miles on a N. by W. ^ W. course. 
 Abreast of the north end of Guemes, which is a steep bluff, and on the west side of the channel, 
 are several small, high, wooded islets, called the Cone islands.* The moderately low, wooded 
 island facing the channel is Sinclair; vessels pass between the southeast point of it and the north 
 end of Guemes. The island a couple of miles to the NE. is Vemlovi;* pass north of it but 
 south of the small islet, (off Eliza's island,) which is 2 miles NE. by N. from the NW. point of 
 Vendovi, and the southern part of Bellingham bay opens to the southeast; its northern part 
 opens to the N.NW, 
 
 If the current is flood and the wind light keep close around Guemes and Vendovi, so as not 
 to be set past Sinclair island. The low, bare, rocky islets, 1^ mile NW. of Vendovi, are the 
 Viti Rocks; and the point between them and Eliza's island is the southern extremity of Lummi 
 island. From the islet last passed, a point on the eastern shore lies nearly north 5 or 6 miles 
 distant. Run past this and follow the trend of the shore for 2 or 3 miles to the deepest part 
 of that portion of the bay, when houses, &c., will denote the position of the mines and the 
 villages of Sehome and Whatcom. Half a mile from the shore is capital anchorage in 4 fathoms, 
 soft bottom, and the bay there is very smooth. 
 
 The general direction of Bellingham bay is SE. and NW. ; its width 3 miles and length 14, 
 extending from latitude 48° 33' to latitude 48° 48'. The depth of water ranges from 3 to 20 
 fathoms, with good sticky bottom. 
 
 A hydrographic sketch of the bay was published in the Coast Survey Report for 1856. 
 
 We believe there are several companies mining here, but the amount of coal obtained is not 
 great. Its quality is not good, the furnaces producing sometimes as much clinker and ashes in 
 bulk, aad half the amount in weight of the coal put in. Deleterious gas is freely disengaged, 
 and the combustion also evolves clouds of black smoke. In the experiment which we witnessed, 
 in 1853, the steamer's furnaces could not, in two attempts, be kept up so as to produce a 
 sufSciency of steam. 
 
 A saw-mill is located upon the bay at one of the villages. 
 
 Bellingham bay was first surveyed by Whidbey, under Vancouver's orders, in 1792, and 
 then received its present name. In some recent maps the northern portion is called Gaston 
 bay, and for the southern part the original name is retained; but Vancouver's designation is 
 that universally adopted on the western coast. 
 
 A military station is located at the upper part of the bay, opposite to the coal mines. 
 
 The amount of shore-line in the Archipelago de Haro, Bellingham bay. Possession sound, &c., 
 is 627 miles. 
 
 <* Named by the United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 
 1/ /v; nU'/Zji^ 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SUHVET. 143 
 
 ADMIRALTY INLCT. 
 
 Ocneral Features. — This inlot may be described as a vast canal, coramencing at the sonthoast 
 oxtremity of the Strait of Juan de Fuca and running in a general SE. by S. direction for CO 
 miles to the south end of Vashon's island. It has for that length an average width of 3 J 
 miles, and then branches iiUoa multitude of arms, which cover an urea of about 14 by 22 miles. 
 Their general direction is SW. | S., and they comprise what is called Piujii's Sound. 
 
 At 16 miles from the entrance to the inlot an arm allied Z/bo<rsc«»j«i opens upon the western 
 side, and runs 60 mile« S. by W., with an average width of 1.J mile. Twenty-five miles from 
 the entrance of the inlet another arm opens on the eastern side, runs north and northwest 
 behind Whidboy island, forming Possession sound, ports Gardner and Susan, &c., and leads on 
 to the Strait of Juan do Fuca through Deception Pass, at the north end of Whidbey island. 
 
 The shores are generally bluffs, ranging from 50 to 500 feet in height, with their sides kept 
 bright by the gradual wearing action of the water, and their tops covered with trees and thick 
 undergrowth to their very edges. There is so much sameness in the shores that it requires 
 some acquaintance with the dilTerent points to recognize them by their trifling peculiarities. 
 The depth of water in the channels is remarkably great, perhaps averaging 100 fathoms; and 
 it is sometimes difficult to find anchorage sufficiently far from the shoro to afford room for 
 getting under way Many superior harbors are found in every direction, and small settle- 
 ments are gradually springing up in favorable localities. 
 
 Admiralt}^ inlet. Hood's canal, and Puget's Sound, have an aggregate shoro line of not less 
 than 803 miles, yet the number of dangers knowm to exist in them is remarkably few. 
 
 One of the inlets or arms of Puget's Sotind reaches within two miles of the head of Hood's 
 canal, and between them lies a largo lake. The southern waters of this sound are also within 
 55 miles, in a direct line, of the Columbia river, at the mouth of the Cowlitz, 46 miles from 
 Capo Disappointment, and within 20 miles of the upper waters of the Chehalis river, which 
 runs into Gray's bay. At present the route travelled from the Columbia is by canoes, for less 
 than 20 miles, up the Cowlitz to the settlement at "Cowlitz Landing," (or by horse over a 
 somewhat bad path, ) and then by horses or mules to Olympia, over a tolerably level country, 
 and by a road moderately good in summer but bad in winter. The distance can be made in 
 one day with a good horse. From where the road strikes the Chehalis the river is said to be 
 navigable for largo boats to Gray's harbor. We judged the stream to bo about 100 yards wide. 
 It had apparently plenty of water, and a slow current. The Cowlitz has a rapid current, and 
 at a low stage of the water canoes are poled up its channel; during freshets they are dragged 
 up, the crews clinging to the branches of the trees upon its banks. Two days of labor are 
 then required for the trip, but in summer it is made in one. 
 
 The importance of these close relations of the waters of the Columbia river, Puget's Sound, 
 Admiralty inlet, Gray's harbor, and Shoalwater bay, in view of the prosperity of the two 
 Territories, must be manifest witiiout entering into dotAils of the feasibility of their connection 
 by railroads and canals. 
 
 The inlot was discovered by Quimper, in 1790, and called the Canal do Caamano. It was 
 first explored and made known, in 1792, by Vancouver, who applied tho present name to it. 
 
 A reconnaissance sketch of Admiralty Inlet was published by tho Coast Survey in 1854. 
 
144 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 We shall not attempt to give in full and explicit detail all the peculiarities of this vast area 
 of waters, but, following the mid-channel courses, will only note generally the objects as they 
 come under tlie eye of the navigator. 
 
 The entrance to the inlet lies between Point Partridge, on Whidbey island, and Point Wilson, 
 on the main, at the entrance to Port Townshend. The bearing of the latter point from the 
 former is SE, by S. ^ S., 4^ miles; and the bluff head lying 2 or, 3 miles to the cast of this 
 line, and destitute of trees, is Admiralty Head,* around which the ebb current, and an ebb 
 eddy on the flood, sweeps with force. 
 
 The first course inside of the entrance of the inlet is E.SE. 6^ miles, passing Port Townshend 
 on the south. Admiralty Head on the north, and changing the course abreast of Marrowstone 
 Point on the W.SW. 
 
 Point Partridge is the western point of Whidbey island, and directly faces the Strait of Juan 
 de Fuca. It is very steep and yellow, and flat on the summit, which is covered with spruce, 
 fir, and cedar. The point is so rounding that it is not easily recognized on coming from the 
 westward, but from the south and north it is well marked and prominent. Its face is composed 
 of loose sand, which, being blown up the hill by the strong west winds, has formed a very 
 peculiar ridge on the outer face of the top. This is so narrow that it can hardly be travelled, 
 and in many places it is 35 feet above the ground inside, yet, being overgrown with bushes, the 
 ridge is now permanent. 
 
 The highest part of the point is about 260 feet above low water. 
 
 The triangulation of the Coast Survey was on the southern part of the point, and its approxi- 
 mate geographical position is — 
 
 Latitude 48 12 59 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 45 07 west. 
 
 From Point Wilson it bears NW. by N. ^ N., 4|- miles. 
 From Admiralty Head, NW. by W. | W., 5j miles. 
 It received its present name from Vancouver in 1792. 
 
 PORT TOWNSHEND. 
 
 This harbor is favorably situated at the termination of the Strait of Juan de Fuca, at the 
 outlet of the waters of Admiralty Inlet, Puget's Sound, &c., and in proximity to the great inland 
 waters of British Columbia. The entrance lies between Point Wilson* and Marrowstone Pointt, 
 the latter bearing E.SE. 3f miles from the former. Upon this line, and even outside of it, 
 lies a bank extending two-thirds of the distance from Marrowstone, and having from 6 to 15 
 fathoms, with hard, sandy bottom. Inside of Point Wilson, which is composed of low, sandy 
 hillocks, as heretofore described, lies another low point called Point HudsonJ, distant 1| mile, 
 SE. by S. I S. 
 
 Starting from the entrance line, about 1^ mile from Marrowstone, the mid-channel course of 
 the bay is S.SW., 3 miles, with an average width of 2; thence SE. \ S. for 3^ miles, with an 
 average width of 1 j. The depth of water throughout is very regular, and ranges from 8 to 15 
 
 o Red Bluff of the United States Exploring Expedition. It has now no marked color to suggest the appellation. 
 f Named by Vancouver in 1792. On one edition of the maps of the United States Exploring Expedition the latter point U 
 called Point Carroll, and on another Point Kinggold. 
 
 J Named by the United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 
THE UHTTED STATES COAST SURVEY. 145 
 
 fathoms, with soft, muddy bottom inside of Point Hudson. Vessels coming from the strait steer 
 for Point Hudson, as soon as it is opened by Point Wilson, passing the latter close, as 20 fathoms are 
 found 100 or 200 yards off it. Upon approaching Point Hudson, and when within half a mile 
 of it, gradually keep away about a quarter of a mile in from 5 to 10 fathoms, and, as it opens, 
 run quite close, with the summer wind offshore, to save making a tack; keep along half a mile 
 to the town situated under the Prairie Bluff, and anchor anywhere off the end of the wharf, in 
 10 to 12 fathoms, about a quarter of a mile from shore. In winter anchor further out, to clear 
 Point Hudson in getting under way with a southeaster. 
 
 If coming down the inlet, bound into the bay, and the current is ebb, pass Marrowstone 
 nearly three quarters of a mile before heading in for the town, and so avoid a very strong eddy 
 which comes out of the bay along the bluff shore west of this point. If the wind is light and 
 the current strong, pass the Point quite close; run along the outside of the rip, and try to get 
 upon the bank as soon as practicable. 
 
 In summer vessels frequently drift about the entrance for days, without a breath of wind, 
 and in very strong currente. 
 
 A preliminary chart of the locality appeared in the Coast Survey Report for 1854. 
 
 The toicn numbers a few houses, and in the vicinity are some good farms. The place is noted 
 for the rough character of its " beach combers." 
 
 A military post has been established on the bluff, 2J miles S. by W. from the town, and on 
 a site which commands one of the most beautiful views in these waters, having the bluff and 
 varied shores of the bay on either hand; Admiralty Head, 6 miles distant, in the middle ground; 
 several distant, wooded ridges, and in the background the snow-covered, double summit of 
 Mount Baker, with the mouth of the crater distinctly visible between the peaks, and at times 
 emitting vast volumes of smoke. 
 
 On the east side of the bay, abreast of the town, lies a long sand spit, nearly closing the 
 north entrance to Kilisut harbor, which runs parallel to the inlet, and is separated by an island 
 a mile wide and 6 miles long. At high tide this harbor communicates, by a crooked boat 
 channel, with Oak Gove, at the south end. 
 
 At the head of Port Townshend.is a narrow channel opening into a large flat, bounded by a 
 low, sandy beach, separating it from Oak Cove. The Indians frequently use this as a portage. 
 
 The shores are generally bluffs, about 120 feet high, and covered with wood, except behind 
 the town. Between the town and Fort Townshond are two low pieces of grass and sand beach, 
 backed by marsh and ponds. The 5-fathom curve extends but a few hundred yards from any 
 part of the shores. A small patch of kelp lies off the southern point of Prairie Bluff, and another 
 off the north face of Marrowstone Bluff. No fresh water is to be had at the town, but vessels 
 can obtain a small supply near the military post. Vegetables generally are plenty, and the 
 prices moderate. 
 
 Between Port Discover)' and Port Townshend lies a peninsula 3 miles wide, offering great 
 advantages as a location for a town. No name has hitherto been applied to it, and we have 
 ventured to designate it as the Quimpeb Peninsula. 
 
 19 
 
146 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 The geographical position of the triangulation station of the Coast Survey, upon Point 
 Wilson, is: 
 
 O / ;/ 
 
 Latitude 48 08 42.7 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 44 49.4 west. 
 
 h. m, J. 
 
 Or, in time 8 10 59.6. 
 
 The position of the triangulation station on the extremity of Point Hudson, computed from 
 the secondary astronomical station near the town, is : 
 
 O I II 
 
 Latitude • 48 07 06.7 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 44 25.t5 west. . . 
 
 A. m. J. 
 Or, in time 8 10 57.7. 
 
 Magnetic variation 21° 40' east, in August, 1856, with a yearly increase of 1'. 4. 
 
 From the above it will be seen that Point Hudson is about Im. 25s. west of Telegraph 
 hill, San Francisco. 
 
 Tides. — The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon's transit 
 and the time of high water is IIIA. XLIXm. The mean rise and fall of tides is 4. 6 feet, of 
 spring tides 5.5 feet, and of neap tides 4.0 feet. The mean duration of the flood is 6A. 34wi., 
 and of the ebb bh. 52wi. The mean diiference between the corrected establishments of the 
 a. m. and p. m. tides of the same day is 21i. 22m. for high water and 0/i. 35m. for low water. 
 When the moon's declination is greatest these differences are 4A. 38m. and OA. 27m., respect- 
 ively; and when the moon's declination is zero they are OA. 40m. and Oh. 29m. The mean dif- 
 ference in height of these two tides is 1.1 foot for the high waters, and 4.6 feet for the low 
 waters; when the moon's declination is the greatest they are 0.6 foot and 7.3 feet, and when 
 the moon's declination is zero 1.4 foot and 1.4 foot. When the moon's declination is greatest, 
 and north, the two high waters of the day follow the moon's upper transit, respectively, by 
 about 6/i. 8m. and 13^. 56m., and when greatest, and south, by about 111. 30m. and 18/i. 34m., 
 the height of the two being about equal. When the moon's declination is zero, and passing 
 from north to south, they follow the moon's transit by about 4A. 9m., and 15/i. 55m., and the 
 first rises about 1.4 foot higher than the second. When the moon's declination is zero, and 
 passing from south to north, they follow the moon's transit by about 3A. 29m. and 167*. 35m., 
 and the second rises higher than the first by the same quantity. When the moon's declination 
 is greatest, north or south, the two low waters follow the moon's transit by about 9A. 41m. 
 and 22/i. 7m., but when north the second falls lower than the first by about 7.3 feet, and when 
 south the first falls lower by that quantity. When the moon's declination is zero, the two low 
 waters fall nearly equally. The greatest difference observed between the heights of the 
 two low waters of a day was 8.6 feet, and the greatest difference between the highest high 
 and lowest low water of a day was 10.1 feet. 
 
 Port Townshend was surveyed and first made known, in 1792, by Vancouver, who gave it 
 the present name, by which it is always known. 
 
 It was examined and named by Quimper in 1790. 
 
 Inl855-'56, a law was passed appropriating a sum for building a light- house upon "Ked Bluff," 
 
 but the recommendations of sea-faring men have fixed generally upon Point Wilson as the most 
 
 suitable location. Eed Bluff or Admiralty Head has the advantage of being seen further up 
 
 the inlet, but is shut out from Smith' s Island light, Avhile Point Wilson commands both it 
 
THE DOTTED STATES OOkBT SITRVET. 147 
 
 and DangWMW light. Around Point Wilson all the navigation and commerce of the inlet and 
 Bound turn; and from it vessels take their departure wken going out in foggy or smoky weather. 
 A vessel entering Port Townshend at night could easily know hor position with the light on 
 Point Wilson, and could enter it with certainty. Coming out of the inlet and bound into the 
 bay she would have a good course to run by, when the light was opened by Marrowstone 
 Point. 
 
 Marrowatcne Point is a low sandy point stretching 300 yards eastward from the base of the 
 bluff, and forming an indentation on its southern face, whore anchorage may be had in 12 
 fathoms, with a current or eddy invariably running ebb. Small craft coming out of the inlet 
 with a head wind can easily take advantage of this for 2 or 3 miles above the point. 
 
 It received its present name from Vancouver in 1792. 
 
 Admiralty Head, abreast of the entrance to Port Townshend, is a perpendicular cliff 80 feet 
 high, falling on the eastern side to a low, pebbly shore, which runs 2 miles to the E.NE. and 
 strikes the high cliffs on the eastern side of the inlet. Behind this beach ia a large lagoon and 
 off it is Admiralty bay, with hard, sandy bottom, in irregular ridges, and a depth of 15 to 25 
 fathoms of water. A strong current always makes out of the bay, afe it is exposed to the full 
 sweep of southeasters. The current is so strong that a vessel rides to it, and consequently 
 lies in the trough of the sea. 
 
 The geographical position of the triangulation station of the Coast Survey on the extremity 
 of Admiralty Head is: 
 
 Latitude 48 09 21.6 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 40 08.0 west. 
 
 k. m. (. 
 
 Or, in time 8 10 40.5. 
 
 From Point Wilson it bears NE. by E., distant 3^ miles. 
 
 From Marrowstone Point N. by W. J W., distant 3|^ miles. 
 
 Starting from the last course abreast of Marrowstone Point the mid-channel course runs SE. 
 by S. J S. for 7 miles. The shores on either hand are bluffs of apparently uniform height, 
 covered with trees. About 5 miles on this course is passed, on the eastern shore, a low point, 
 with one or two clumps of trees and bushes, to which has been given the name Bush Point.* 
 On the western shore is a rounding bluff point one mile north of the point, which forms the 
 northeast part of Oak Cove. Off this point is good anchorage in 12 to 15 fathoms. The pecu- 
 liar geological formations, found in the vicinity, suggested the designation ^od!/&Potn^,t which 
 it now bears. The high bold headland, several miles directly ahead, is Foulweather Blufft; 
 and that to the E. SE. destitute of trees, except one large clump, which marks it conspicuously 
 from this direction, is Double Bluff i. The deep indentation between it and Bush Point, with 
 law land in the rear, is Mutiny Bay,t in the northern part of which exists a narrow bank of 11 
 fathoms, affording an excellent fishing ground. At the end of the course Oak Cove,^ opens to 
 the westward, and stretches towards the waters of Port Townshend. It has bluff shores nearly 
 all around it, those on the southwest face beiug limestone, but Basalt Point, at the south, derives 
 
 ' By the Coast Barrey partlei in 1866. 
 
 t So named by Vanoonrer in 1792. The Indian name for Foulweather If Pttch-pal. 
 
 X Xamed by the Coast Surrey parties in 18SS. 
 
 9 So sailed by Vaaoourer in 1792. 
 
148 KEPOET OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 its name from its geological structure. The depth of water is 5 to 15 fathoms, except N.NW. 
 of Basalt Point, where it reaches 25 and 30 fathoms. The length of the bay is 3 miles and its 
 average width about 1^ mile. In beating out of the inlet, with a favorable current, vessels 
 must not attempt to work to this bay for the sake of a long tack. 
 
 Vancouver called it Oak Cove, his people having reported that oak trees stood upon its 
 shores. We have traversed the greater part of the shores but found none. 
 
 The opening west of Foulweather Bluff is Hood's Canal. Yessels bound into it keep close to 
 the western shore of the bluff, and pass two low points lying near together. The water off 
 them is deep. Off the north face of Foulweather, for nearly a mile, less than 15 fathoms may 
 be found. Kelp exists under the face of the bluff, and vessels may pass round it in 6 and 1 
 fathoms. The bottom along the edge of the kelp is rocky. On the west side of the entrance 
 to Hood's Canal is Port Ludlow, which will be described hereafter. 
 
 The next and third course is E.SE. for 10 miles, passing on the eastward Double Bluff, which 
 stretches northeast for a mile, and rises 300 or 400 feet in height, having its top covered with 
 wood. The bluff running also to the northward forms Useless hay* This has deep water 
 over the greater portion of it, with a large shallow bay called Deer Lagoon\ at its head. The 
 high bluff forming the southern point of Useless bay is Scatchet Head.X A similar bluff lies 2 
 miles E. by S. of it. These form the southern extremity of Whidbey island, in latitude 47° 
 54' N., and are the turning points into Possession Sound. 
 
 The two heads are about 300 feet high, covered with wood, and separated by a depression, 
 which is in part overflowed at high tide, and then presents the appearance of a small bay. 
 Prom the eastern head round the western, and a mile toward Useless bay, the low water line 
 makes out half a mile, the shore being bare where some recent maps have deep water. For 
 nearly a mile south of both heads a depth of 8 and 10 fathoms and smooth sandy bottom can be 
 found. We found, when anchored for several days off the eastern head, a strong under current 
 running into Possession Sound, and an outer current setting to the Avestward, at all tides. 
 Vancouver makes mention of the shoal, and states that in beating into the inlet he stood on 
 the bank until he got 5 fathoms, but want of time precluded his examining it. 
 
 On the western side of the last mid-channel course we pass Foulweather Bluff, which is 
 perpendicular on its N.NW. face, and about 225 feet high, with heavy firs upon its summit. 
 It slopes towards the east to a bluff 40 feet high, but is steep on the side next to Hood's Canal. 
 The low point 4 miles east of it is Point No Point,% making well out, and destitute of trees or 
 bushes. Between it and Foulweather is a deep bight, and the distance across to Hood's Canal 
 is only a quarter of a mile in one part, marked by the track of a recent tornado that has 
 twisted off and uprooted firs of 3 and 4 feet diameter. On the south side of Point No Point is 
 good anchorage in 10 fathoms, and thence onward the western shore runs nearly straight SE. 
 by S. for 10 miles. 
 
 At the end of the last course, which carried us 3 miles beyond Point No Point, the inlet 
 expands to a width of T miles. A course E.NE. for 3^ miles carries us to the entrance of 
 Possession Sound, the first 6 miles of which run N. ^ W., with a width of 2 miles and bluff 
 shores. It then turns to the northwestward to Port Gardner. The water is deep in the 
 
 *> Named by the United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 f Named by the Coast Survey parties, 1856. 
 
 X Named by United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. The proper spelling is Bkadg'-it, and the Indian name of the 
 point, Skoolhks. 
 § Named by United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. The Indian name for the point is Hahd-skug. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 8UEVBY. 149 
 
 entrance, and affords no anchorage. The low point on the eastern ahore, 4 miles after entering, 
 is Point Elliott* and tlio bay opening to the northeast receives the Sinahomis or Scaget river. 
 The next, or fourth, mid-channel course up the inlet is S.SE. for 21 miles to Allen's Bank, 
 which lies a mile off the north end of Yashon's island. Five miles on this course, or 7 from 
 Point No Point, brings us to an excellent little harbor on the western side of the inlet, called 
 ApjpU Tree Cove,* having a low point on the north side, with a soft mud flat extending several 
 hundred yards up tlie inlet. From 5 to 12 fathoms water and sticky bottom are found off it 
 and in the cove. There is no fresh water in the vicinity, but very good timber may be pro- 
 cured suitable for boat spars and booms. On the eastern shore of the inlet, abreast of this 
 cove, are two low points, a mile apart, making out from the bluff. The indentation between 
 them forms a good though small anchorage, and the chances are good for fresh water at high 
 tide. The southern point is named Point Wdh*, the northern Point Edmund.* The inlet is 
 here only 3 miles wide, and continues so to Point Jefferson, 2 miles southward of Apple Tree 
 cove. This is a moderately low straight bluff, with the ground rising behind it. Stretching 
 broad off its eastern face for three-quarters of a mile we discovered, in 1856, a 9-fathom shoal, 
 which affords capital anchorage for vessels when drifting with light airs and adverse currents. 
 
 POET MADISON. ■ 
 
 Point Jefferson is the northern side of the entrance to this port, which runs 3 miles W.S W. , 
 with an average width of 2 miles and a large depth of water, except under Point Jefferson, 
 where anchorage may be had in 10 and 15 fathoms, hard sandy bottom, with patches of kelp 
 inshore. 
 
 The southeast point of the entrance is low and sandy, making out from high wooded groimd. 
 One mile west of it is the narrow entrance to a natural canal, upon which, in full view, are 
 situated the Port Madison saw-mills. At the SW. part of the bay is the very narrow entrance 
 to Port Orchard. The channel is somewhat crooked, but it has 3 and 4 fathoms water in it. 
 On the western side of this entrance are some white patches of beach, formed by clam shells. 
 In 1857 an Indian village was situated here, and an Indian sub-agency. Both sides of the 
 entrance are bluffs. Vessels not well acquainted with the channel must enter under easy sail, 
 and keep a lead going on each side of the vessel to ascertain where the deepest water lies. 
 After getting through give the point, one mile off on the western side, a berth of nearly half a 
 mile, to avoid a shoal which makes out east from it. Thence it is plain sailing in 15 to 25 
 fathoms of water. After passing the first point an arm opens to the NW., and many vessels 
 load there with spars. Ten miles up the southern channel is, or was, a saw-mill. In coming 
 out of this port vessels should not trust the southern entrance, but leave as they entered. 
 
 Port Orchard was examined and named by Vancouver in 1792. 
 
 Bainbridge island lies between Port Orchard, Port Madison, and Admiralty Inlet. It is 8 or 
 9 miles long by 2^ in breadth, and its general direction is SE. by S. A few loggers huts stand 
 on the western side and the Madison saw-mill at the north end. On the S£. part it is indented 
 By two small harbors. It was named by the United States Exploring Expedition in 1841. 
 
 DUWAMI8H BAT. 
 
 Abreast of Port Madison the eastern shore of the inlet retreats and there receives several 
 small streams of water, but it gradually makes out into a very long, low sand point, called 
 
 o So ciOled by tbc Unltod SUtes Exploring Ezpedltloo, 1841. 
 
160 EEPOET OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 West Point* which forms the extreme northwest part of the entrance to Duwamish bay. The 
 bay runs E. by S. 6^ miles and has a width of 2 miles. To the south point, called Battery 
 Point, f which is low and bare, with a curiously shaped mound rising sharply behind it, the 
 course is about SE. by S. and distance 4^ miles. Under West Point there is anchorage in 10 
 to 15 fathoms after getting towards the bluiF; but on the north side of the point the water is 
 very deep. Through the centre of the bay the depth ranges from 88 to 40 fathoms. On the 
 north side of Battery Point a vessel anchoring in 20 fathoms cannot have a greater scope of 
 chain than 35 fathoms without being too close to the shore. When we anchored there in 13 
 fathoms and veered to 25 fathoms of chain the vessel's stern was in 2^ fathoms. The beach is 
 smooth and very regular, being composed of sand and gravel. On this side of Battery Point 
 is the deserted town of Alki, (the Indian phrase for "by and by.") The town has had 
 several names, but there is nothing about it to command trade. 
 
 The bluff head within the bay, 2 miles NN.E. off Battery Point, is Duwamish Head. It is 
 steep, about 150 feet high, covered with timber, and the beach at low water stretches out 
 over a quarter of a mile N.NW. from it. The head of the bay receives the Duwamish river,, 
 and for one or two miles is an extensive flat, bare at low water. 
 
 The town of Seattle is on a small point at the NE. part of the bay, a little over 5 miles 
 inside of West Point. It consists of a few houses and stores, a church, and a small saw-mill. 
 It has but little trade. 
 
 The usual anchorage is directly off the wharf in 10 to 15 fathoms water, with the large 
 white house on the extreme point bearing about E. or E. by S., and at a distance from the 
 beach of about 500 yards. This position will enable a vessel to work out well by making the 
 first tack to the southward towards the flat. If it is high water this flat cannot be distin- 
 guished, and the lead must be kept going. When a depth of 15 fathoms is struck go about, 
 for it shoals to 3 fathoms very suddenly, and keeping on would soon bring up on the flat. 
 If the current is ebb vessels bound out should stand well into the inlet; and if bound up work 
 close under and around Duwamish Head to Battery Point. If the current is flood vessels 
 bound out should work under the north shore, and close to West Point; if bound up work 
 under the north shore about 3^ miles to Magnolia Bluff, beyond a low marshy indentation in 
 the shore, or until they can fetch well clear of Battery Point. 
 
 There is said to be some good agricultural prairie land on the Duwamish river. Some 
 distance up it is connected with Lalce Washington, which is reported to be 25 miles long and 
 several miles broad, with islands in it. It is but a few miles in a direct line east of Seattle. 
 Another small lake exists about a mile back from the beach, a mile west of Seattle. This is 
 reached by a trail. 
 
 The town of Seattle was attacked by a small body of Indians in 1855, but the assault was 
 repelled by the United States steamer Massachusetts. 
 
 The bay was called Elliott's Bay by the United States Exploring Expedition in 1841, but 
 the present name is that by which it is invariably known and was adopted from the name of 
 the tribe of Indians inhabiting its shores. The name is derived from that of the Chief 
 Se-at-tl. 
 
 The Coast Survey report for 1854 was accompanied by a reconnaissance sketch of Duwamish 
 bay and Seattle harbor. 
 
 " Named by the United States Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 f Named by the Coast Survey parties, 1856. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 151 
 
 BE8T0RATI0N POINT. 
 
 « 
 
 From tho SE. point of Port Madison to this point the Bhore is bluff and somewhat irregular, 
 and is indented first by Eagie harbor,* having a long pebbly spit making out 300 or 400 yards 
 SE. from its north point; and next, at Point Restoration, by Blakdy harbor,* having off its 
 entrance a largo rock, 15 feet high, with deep water all round it. Tho rock bears nearly 
 N.NW. three-quarters of a mile from the point, and tho bottom between is irregular, the 
 depth ranging from 20 to 40 fathoms. Blakely harbor is only a quarter of a mile wide and 
 three-quarters long, with 18 fathoms sticky bottom at its mouth, and shoaling gradually inside, 
 but most on the south side. A hydrographic sketch of the harbor will be found in the Coast 
 Survey Report for 1856. 
 
 Eagle harbor is larger and more commodious than Blakely. The shoal off its north point is 
 not, 80 far as we know, laid down on any chart. 
 
 Restoration Point is in some respects very peculiar, no other in these waters, except Battery 
 Point, presenting the same formation. For 300 yards it is flat, about 10 feet about high water, 
 and has a foot depth of soil covered with grass over a limestone rock, upheaved nearly on 
 edge, the direction of the strata pointing toward Battery or a little south of it. Inshore it 
 rises up sharply about 100 feet, its sides covered with grass and the summit with fir trees. 
 Around the whole SE. face of the point these peculiarities exist. On the upper levels of the 
 high land adjacent our party found small lakes of water. 
 
 From the extremity of the point a ledge, bare at low tides, makes out 300 yards, but the 
 depth is 6 fathoms 100 yards off its extremity, and 16 fathoms at a quarter of a mile. On the 
 tail of this ledge the United States sloop-of-war Decatur struck in 1855. S.SE. of the point 
 anchorage may be had in 15 fathoms, sticky bottom, a quarter of a mile distant; or, as a rule 
 for finding anchorage, bring the rock north of it to range just over and inside of the point. 
 Kelp exists along the southern face. 
 
 The geographical position of the triangulation station of the Coast Survey upon this point is: 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 47 35 05.8 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 28 15.2 west. 
 
 A. m. t. 
 
 Or, in time 8 09 53.0. 
 
 From this point Battery Point bears E. by N. i N., distant 2.J miles. 
 
 Tides. — The approximate corrected establishment is lYh. IVm., and the approximate mean 
 rise and fall of tides 7.4 feet. 
 
 Vancouver anchored under this point in 1792; found large numbers of Indians located near, 
 and first called it Village Point, but changed it to its present name in commemoration of the 
 day on which he anchored. From this place his boats explored all the waters adjacent. 
 
 South of Restoration the inlet opens to the westward for a couple of miles into a bay, in 
 which is situated an island about three-quarters of a mile in extent, called Blake island.* From 
 the northwest part of the bay leads a narrow crooked pa.ss 3 miles long to the southern part of 
 Port Orchard, which spreads out into several arms. The pass is obstructed by rocks and is 
 difficult of navigation. The winds are variable, light and uncertain at its narrowest part, where 
 it makes a sharp turn, and is only a couple of hundred yards wide with a rushing swirling 
 
 • Named by tb« United State* Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 
152 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 current. The channel generally used, although narrower than the one just mentioned, is that 
 leading into Port Madison. 
 
 Our last course brought us to Allen's Bank* oflFthe north end of Vashon's island, with Blake 
 island to the westward, and three-quarters of a mile distant. This bank is nearly a mile in extent, 
 and has as little as 10 fathoms upon it, with a variable bottom, in some places mud, and in others 
 hard sand. At our anchorage upon it in 11 fathoms the south end of Blake island bore N. 81° 
 "W., and the NW. point of Vashon's island S. 5° B. Between the anchorage and Blake island 
 the water regularly deepens to about 18 fathoms in soft mud. This anchorage has already 
 proved of service to vessels losing the wind and having adverse currents. The eastern point of 
 Blake island is low and pebbly, and called by the natives Tatugh. Under it is anchorage in 17 
 and 18 fathoms, soft mud. The NW. point of Vashon's island is Dolphin Point, the northeast ^M^^ 
 point Point Vashon, the point abreast of it is Point Southworth, and the mile wide channel, 
 commencing between the last two points, is Oolvos Passage, t running west of Vashon' s island. 
 
 The extent of shore-line from the entrance to the north end of Vashon's island is 241 miles. 
 
 The main body of the inlet runs about SE. for 8 miles, then S.SW. 8 miles further, with an 
 average width of two miles. In this stretch the currents are moderately strong; the chances 
 for anchoring few; and it is sometimes calm while a nice breeze is blowing through Colvos 
 Passage. 
 
 Brace Point % lies on the east side of the inlet, NE. from Dolphin Point, The round-topped 
 point having two or three lone fir trees upon it, and situated on the same side of the inlet, 4 
 miles above Brace Point, is called Point PuUy. t The water is very deep close to it on either 
 side. 
 
 The geographical position of the triangulation station of the Coast Survey on the summit of 
 the mound is: 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 47 27 07.3 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 22 21.5 west. 
 
 h. m. s. 
 
 Or, in time 8 09 29.4. 
 
 There is a small cove north of Brace Point, and between it and another low point called 
 Fauntleroy Cove,^ having good anchorage in 10 and 12 fathoms, and fresh water is easily 
 obtained in the vicinity. Between Brace Point and Point PuUy two or three small streams 
 of water empty, and another from the valley a mile east of the high bluff at PuUy. Off this 
 valley a flat makes out with deep water at its edge. 
 
 Under Dolphin Point there is very deep water; but off the north end of the island, near this 
 point, we found anchorage in 14 fathoms, hard bottom. 
 
 Colvos Passage is the usual, we may say the invariably used ship channel towards Puget' s 
 Sound. It is about a mile wide, with high bluff shores, varied by numerous small low sand 
 points making out from the face of the bluff, and having deep water off them. The passage is 
 11 miles long to the south end of Vashon's island, which is called Dalco Point, t and it runs 
 with a nearly straight course S. by E. A mile and a half inside of Point Vashon there is a 
 small curve in the shore-line called Fern Cove,% with excellent anchorage in 5 and 10 fathoms. 
 
 Discotewd and named by the Coast Survey in 1857. In some recent maps 25 to 30 fathoms are marked on the site of 
 this Bhoal. 
 
 -[•Named by the TTnited States Exploring Expedition, 1841. 
 
 t Named by the Coast Survey in 1856. 
 
 §Named by the United States Coast Survey, 1857. 
 
TUE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY. 153 
 
 ft 
 
 Abreast of Dolco Point there is a small boat harbor, with u narrow and shoal cntrnnco, culled 
 Oig Harbor. • Looking out of the passage to the north, Mount Baker shows distinctly in clear 
 weather. 
 
 COMUEKCGUEXT BAY. 
 
 When abreast of Dalco Point this bay, at the termination of Admiralty Inlet, opens to the 
 E.SE., and over its low background shows the high snow-covered yieak of Mount Rainier. 
 The general direction of the bay is E. by S. J S., with a length of 3 or 4 miles, a width of 2 miles, 
 and ik great depth of water up to the line of the extensive flat at its head, which is backed by 
 marsh. There are no settlement* upon it, but in 1857 we found some deserted fishing stations. 
 
 It was named, in 1792, by Vancouver, who thought this the entrance to some large arm of 
 the inlet, on account of the low country beyond. 
 
 ^e believe the Indian name for this bay is Puynllup. 
 
 Vashon^s Idand, lying between the southern extremity of the inlet and Colvos Passage, is 
 11 J miles long, with an average width of 2^ miles. Halfway down on its eastern side lies a 
 curiousl}' shaped peninsula, formed by a narrow, low, sandy neck of land which makes out into 
 the inlet, and then runs towards the south point of the island. The space between this 
 peninsula and the island is an excellent harbor 4 or 5 miles long, and three-quarters of a mile 
 wide, with 5 to 10 fathoms water in it. The southeast face of the peninsula is high and steep, 
 and bordered by ^vater from 40 to 50 fathoms deep. 
 
 The island is high, with steep shores covered with wood and undergrowth. Its surface is 
 marshy in many parts that are quite elevated. The present name was given by Vancouver in 
 1792. The harbor formed by it and the peninsula was called Quartermaster's harbor by the 
 United States Exploring Expedition. 
 
 POINT DEFIANCE AND THE NABBoWS. 
 
 The high, sharp yellow bluff facing the south entrance to Colvos passage is called Point 
 Defiance, and between it and the western shore pass all the waters of Puget's Sound. This 
 passage is called the Narrows. Its average width is three-quarters of a mile, and very uniform; 
 the shores high, bold, and in some places rocky. For 2 miles to the SE. its course is a regular 
 curve. The next turn is to the southward, and at a distance of 2 miles in that direction the 
 waters of the sound open ahead, with a narrow pass between the main and Fox island to the 
 west, and a small indentation, backed by low ground, and formed on the south by a small 
 penins\ila, on the east. In this curve is anchorage in 15 fathoms, with swirling eddies. On the 
 south face of this peninsula, and outside of the kelp, anchorage may also be had. 
 
 PUGET'S SOUND. 
 
 This collection of inlets commences after passing "The Narrows," and covers an area of 14 
 miles by 22, with a general direction SW. | S. The aggregate shore-line of this sound and 
 the adjacent part of Admiralty Inlet, with Colvos Passage, to the north end of Vashon's island, 
 is not less than 370 miles. Upon its shores are situated the settlements of Steilacoom, Nis- 
 qually, Olympia, and Newmarket. 
 
 It received its present name in1792 from Vancouver, in compliment to Lieutenant Puget, 
 who explored it. 
 
 » Named by the Unitad SUtes Exploring Expedition, 18il. 
 20 
 
164 REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 STEILACOOM. 
 
 On the eastern shore of Puget's Sound, 9 miles south of Point Defiance, is situated the 
 town or village of Steilacoom, upon a rising bluff. It consists of only a few houses. Port 
 Steilacoom stands about a mile inland, upon a piece of gravelly prairie, and roads lead from it 
 to the town and the creek. 
 
 The neighboring country is only moderately well adapted to agriculture, except along the 
 bottoms of the small streams. 
 
 The usual anchorage is off the small wharf, in 15 fathoms, hard bottom, and about 400 ok 500 
 yards from the shore. An island, lying 2^ miles distant to the west of that position, is called 
 McNeil, and between it and Fox island, to the northward, there is a passage a mile and a half 
 wide. The passage on the south side of McNeil island, between it and Anderson island, is 
 generally known as Balch's Passage. It bears about SW. by W. from the anchorage, and is 
 marked by a small wooded islet in it called Eagle island, off which lies rocky bottom, and 
 vessels keep closer to the north shore. This passage is the direct channel to Olympia, instead 
 of following the broad one to the southward of Steilacoom. 
 
 The north end of the island showing to the southward, and 1^ mile from the anchorage, is 
 Kitson island. 
 
 One mile north of the anchorage is the mouth of a small stream called the Steilacoom river. 
 
 In coming to Steilacoom, or bound direct for Olympia, a patch of kelp, with foul bottom and 
 less than 3 fathoms of water upon it, must be avoided. It bears S.SE. one mile from the south 
 end of Pox island, and NW. by W. 1| mile from Steilacoom whai-f. The tide-rip upon it and 
 abreast of the town is very great, quite sufficient with a little wind to swamp a small boat. 
 The shores of the main and islands are bold, nearly uniform in height, and covered with 
 trees. 
 
 Tides. — The corrected establishment or mean interval between the time of the moon' 8 
 transit and the time of high water is IV/t. XLVIm. The mean rise and fall of tides is 9.2 
 feet; of spring tides 11.1 feet, of neap tides 7.2 feet. The mean duration of the flood is Qh. 
 3m., of the ebb 6h. 25m., and of the stand 28m. The difference between the rise of the 
 highest tide and fall of the lowest tide observed was 18.3 feet. The greatest difference 
 observed between the height of the two low waters of one day was 12.2 feet; and the greatest 
 difference between the higher high And lower low waters of a day was 17.7 feet. 
 
 When the moon' s declination is greatest north, the two high waters of the day follow her 
 transit, respectively, by about 6 and 16 hours, and when greatest and south by 3^ and 18^ 
 hours, the height of the two being about equal. When the moon' s declination is zero, they 
 follow the moon's transit by about 4/i. 46m. and llh. 12m., but 'the first is higher than the 
 second by about 2.7 feet when the moon's declination is changing from north to south, and 
 when changing from south to north the second is higher than the first by that quantity. When 
 the moon' 8 declination is greatest, north or south, the two low waters follow the moon' s transit 
 by about 11 A. 11m. and 33A. 37m., but when north the second falls lower than the first by 
 about 9.7 feet, and when south the first falls lower than the second by that quantity. When 
 the moon's declination is zero, the two low waters are nearly equal in height; when changing 
 from north to south they follow the moon's southing by about llh. 41m. and 23A. 7m., and 
 when changing from south to north by 10/t. 41m. and 24/«. 7m. 
 
THE UNITED 8TATE8 COAST BURVBT. 155 
 
 Tho pronunciation of the name Steilacoom, as given to us by Indians, is Tchi!'-BB-cura. On 
 the Admiralty maps we find it Chelakoom. 
 
 NitqtuJly, 5 miles south of 8teilacoon, and on the same side of the Sound, is, at present, 
 a place of no trade nor importance. It wa« one of the early posts of the Hudson Bay Company, 
 and is still occupied by them. An extensive mud flat exists off the mouth of the wide, marshy 
 valley, but tho depth of water is very groat close to it, and the anchorage room very much 
 contracted. The river Nisqually empties here, and we believe there arc two small saw-mills 
 upon it. 
 
 OLTMPIA. 
 
 It would be almost useless to attempt to describe the route to Olympia from Steilacoom, as 
 a pilot or a map is absolutely necessary in making the passage. The mid-channcI course is 21 
 miles in length, and its width from half a mile to a mile and a half. 
 
 Olympia is situated at the head of Budd's inlet, which is 6 miles long, three-quarters of a 
 mile wide, and runs nearly south. The shores are steep and wooded, and the head of the bay 
 an immense mud flat, behind which is the town. It acquires prospective importance by being 
 the capital of the Territory, but especially on account of its proximity to the Columbia river 
 valley, and to the headwaters of tho Chehalis. There is a saw-mill at New Market, 2 miles 
 south on the Tumwater, and three others in the vicinity, besides one or two grist-mills. 
 
 A depth of 3 fathoms can be carri«d on the west side of Budd's inlet, within IJ mile of the 
 wharf, and 1 fathom within a mile on the eastern side. Vessels are said to be brought up to 
 the wharf at the highest tides, and then rest in the mud until ready to leave. 
 
 The greatest difference between the highest and lowest tides is reported about 24 feet, and 
 
 is doubtless more than this when we compare its position with that of Steilacoom. The 
 
 approximate corrected establishment isYh. Vlllm., and the mean rise and fall of tides 9.2 feet. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of the wharf is — 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 47 03 00 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 65 00 west. 
 
 A. m. «. 
 
 Or, in time 8 11 42. ' 
 
 Magnetic variation 20° 4T east, in July, 1856. 
 
 A small saw-mill has been built on Hammersley's inlet, and another on Henderson's inlet. 
 
 HOOD'S CANAL. 
 
 The entrance to this arm of Admiralty inlet, lies between Basalt Point and Foulweather 
 Bluff, which bear from each other E. | S.. distant 3 J miles. 
 
 The first mid-channel course is SE. for 4 miles, pointing directly into Port Gamble, at the 
 entrance to which the houses and mill are plainly visible; and passing a high round wooded 
 peninsula on the west side of the channel, and connected to the main by a narrow neck of low 
 sand beach. It is frequently mistaken for an island, and is called Hood's Head. Between this 
 head and Port Gamble the canal changes its course, and runs in nearly a straight line S. by 
 W. 40 miles, with an average width of IJ. In latitude 47° 21' N. it makes an abrupt turn, 
 and runs for 12 or 13 miles about NE. 
 
156 *" REPORT OF THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 PORT LUDLOW. 
 
 Close to Basalt Point lie some rocks, with others about half a mile SE., called the Colvos 
 Rocks,* among which is one 25 feet high but of small extent. Close in shore and abreast of 
 this is a rock just awash at high tide, but between the two runs a channel with 15 fathoms 
 water, having soft muddy bottom. The bright bluff head 1 j mile SE. of the Colvos Rocks, and 
 .about 2 miles SW. by W. from Foulweather Bluff, is Tola Point.' Half way between the Colvos 
 and this point is the usual entrance, over a bar having 4^ fathoms. The 3-fathom curve 
 stretches half a mile SE. of Colvos. If the wind and currents do not suit for this channel, 
 run inside of the Colvos, carrying deep water and 8 fathoms, soft, muddy bottom, anywhere 
 inside of Tala point, even past the saw-mill, if necessary. The general direction of the shore 
 from Basalt Point to the saw-mill on the low sand point inside is S.SE. 2\ miles. Abreast of 
 Tala the width of the bay is three-quarters of a mile, but it gradually contracts to less than 
 half a mile at the saw-mill, at which vessels load. Inside of the saw-mill point is an excellent 
 anchorage in 7 and 8 fathoms. About a mile from the mill is an ample water power, with a fall 
 of 80 feet. A hydrographic sketch of Port Ludlow was issued by the Coast Survey in 1856. 
 
 We believe the Pacific Mail Steamship Company have established a coal depot here, for their 
 Puget's Sound steamships. 
 
 Of all the small harbors in these waters we do not hesitate to give this the preference, as it 
 is completely land-locked, and protected from gales from every quarter by the high land and 
 high trees around it. 
 
 It received its present name from the United States Exploring Expedition in 1841. 
 
 The first rocks off Basalt lie at the narrow mouth of a small boat harbor, called Mats-mats. 
 The entrance to it is over half a mile long, about 100 yards wide, and at the sharp turn 
 obstructed by rocks, which allow a channel of only 3 feet water. Inside the depth ranges to 2 
 fathoms, and the extent of the harbor is about three-quarters of a mile by a third in breadth. 
 
 POET GAMBLE. 
 
 After passing Foulweather Bluff keep closer to the eastern shore than the western, to avoid 
 the strong current passing round the low point which makes out from Hood' s Head. Run for 
 the saw -mill plainly in sight on the western side of the entrance to the bay, and when within 
 a mile of it approach the eastei'u bluff within the third of a mile, in about 10 or 15 fathoms, 
 gradually drawing closer in shore, and passing between the outer white and inner black can 
 buoys. At the lowest tides the white one is in 15 feet, the black in 12^, and the small spar 
 buoy between them in mid-channel in 17 feet; but it rarely shows above water at any tide. 
 After passing these buoys the mill bears almost S.SE. half a mile distant. Steer SE. or half 
 way between the mill wharf and the east point; pass to the east of the white spar buoy, which 
 is in 12^ feet, and run through the entrance, passing the wharf at about one-third of the 
 distance between the points. Do not round up to the eastward, as a shoal makes out almost 
 parallel with the point. It may be here noticed that these buoys were made and placed by the 
 Puget Mill Company, for the benefit of vessels trading to the port. 
 
 If the wind is ahead while beating up, it will be impossible for a large sized vessel to get in, 
 as the channel is half a mile long, and not over 100 yards wide at the narrowest part. Anchor 
 off the buoys and drop in with the early flood, or warp in with the last of the ebb. On the 
 shoal forming the western side of it 10 feet may be found until up with the white spar buoy. 
 
 o Named by the United States Exploring Expedition. 
 
THE UNITED STATES COAST 6UBVET. 157 
 
 Insido of the points the bay appears to open well nndor the castom one, bat the 3-fsthom 
 curve makes out on a line with the end of the point. On the western side is a crib — anchor 
 just beyond it in 5 fathoms, soft muddy bottom. The depth of water throughout the bay is from 
 4 to 9 fathoms, in mud bottom. The length of the bay is 2| miles, its width three-quarters of 
 a mile, and its direction southeast. The shores are steep but not high, and are bordered by 
 sand and pebble boach, offering capital chances for laying a vessel out. A better place, however, 
 for that purpose, is at the end of the store whari', especially for vessels with large dead rise. 
 
 In summer the wind generally blows into the harbor lightly; in winter the SB. gales draw 
 directly out. Loaded vessels must warp out in summer, or trust to a light southerly air in tha 
 morning with an ebb tide. None but small, smart working vessels can beat out, and few of 
 those have done so within the channel limits. 
 
 The Coast Survey Report for 1856 contained a hydrographic sketch of Port Gamble. 
 
 The approximate geographical position of the eastern point of the entrance is: 
 
 o / // 
 
 Latitude 47 51 32 north. 
 
 Longitude 122 33 56 west 
 
 h. m. I. 
 
 Or, in time 8 10 15.7. 
 
 The saw-mill here is the largest and most effective in this part of the territory, cutting at 
 the rate of six or seven millions of feet of lumber per year. Attached to it are lath, shingle, 
 and planing machines. A large quantity of the lumber and rough spars for masts are carried 
 to Australia and the Sandwich Islands. Within two or three seasons, ending with that of 1857, 
 the number of outward bound vessels trading to the Sandwich Islands was 15; the average 
 passage 26J days; the shortest passage 19 days, and the longest 32. From the islands to the 
 mill the number of vessels arriving was 16; average passage 25 J days; shortest passage 15 
 days, and the longest 35 days. Of these, one reported a passage of 15 days to the mouth of 
 Fuca strait, and 9 dajs thence to the port, in the early part of September, having encountered 
 prevailing calms in the strait and inlet. 
 
 From this place, called Teekalet, (the Indian name for the bay,) a road is being constructed 
 (1857) by the Mill Company to Port Madison. 
 
 The steam and smoke from the saw-mill are distinctly visible from part of Port Townshend 
 over the low ground between that bay and Oak Cove. 
 
 Three miles from Hood's Head, on the western side of the canal, Suqxiamish harbor opens. 
 A large sand bank occupies its centre, and extends a mile in length N.NW., by half a mile in 
 width. The approaches to the shoal, which is in part bare, are detected in thick weather by 
 the lead, the soundings decreasing regularly from 20 fathoms. Keep, however, close under 
 the northern shore which runs 2 miles W.SW. from the low point called Termination Point. 
 
 Fourteen miles from Hood's Head the canal curves more to the southward, and then to the 
 S.SW. around Hazel Point, * on the west side of which a large arm of the canal makes north 
 for 10 miles, bifurcating near its head. On its western side the eastern spurs of the Olympus 
 Range reach its waters and form the western shore-line of the canal to the great bend. 
 
 Two miles south of Hazel Point, and on the eastern side of the canal, is a fine harbor, 
 formerly called Uahainiah harbor, but the name has been changed by settlers, who have lately 
 built a small saw-mill there. It is formed by Seabock island on the west, and is about a mile 
 
 e Named by Vanooarer in 1792. 
 
158 
 
 REPORT OP THE SUPERINTENDENT OF 
 
 long by half a mile wide, with good bottom in from 10 to 15 fathoms, the depth decreasing to 
 the head. 
 
 South of the harbor Hood's canal is slightly contracted in width, but continues in the same 
 general direction to about latitude 47° 21' N., ("Vancouver's farthest,") where it takes an 
 abrupt turn and stretches E. by N. ^ N. 4 miles. The width in that part contracts to half a 
 mile, and the shores overlap. From this it takes another slight bend, runs NE. by N. 8 or 9 
 miles, and reaches within 2 or 3 miles of the northern extremity of Case Inlet, an arm of Puget's 
 Sound. A large lake lies between the inlet and the canal. When Vancouver reached the first 
 sharp turn he thought he saw the termination of the canal, and has plotted it in accordance 
 with that view on his chart, four miles beyond the point marked "Vancouver's farthest" on 
 the Admiralty charts. This was, in fact, the highest point to which he carried his boats. 
 
 The name, Hood's Canal, was given to it in 1792 by Vancouver. Its extent of shore-line is 
 not less than 192 miles. 
 
 Before quitting our undertaking we are induced to append the following meteorological table, 
 as it will give a good idea of the summer climate. The observations were made upon a vessel 
 in the waters of Fuca Strait, Admiralty Inlet, and Puget's Sound; the instruments being kept 
 in the best shade practicable. The barometer was an aneroid: read at the hours 10 a. m. and 
 4 p. m., except in heavy weather, when it was read every hour. The thermometer readings 
 are on the Fahrenheit scale and reduced to the standard. 
 
 Abstract of meteorological observations made on board the United States Coast Surveying brig JR. H. 
 Fauntleroy, in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Archipelago de Haro, Admiralty Inlet, and Fuget's 
 Sound, during the summers of 1855, '56, and '57. 
 
 Time. 
 
 =9 C3 
 
 o •" 
 
 .g 
 a 
 
 "3 OS 
 
 a 
 
 " a 
 
 w 
 
 <§ 
 
 & 
 
 be to 
 
 2^ 
 
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 0) 
 
 o . 
 
 ^3 flD 
 OS 0) 
 
 ■= ja 
 
 Cm U 
 
 o a 
 <a "^ 
 tc 
 a 
 
 .a 
 
 M 
 
 1855.— July. 
 
 August 
 
 September 
 
 Three weeks in October. 
 
 o 
 
 71.5 
 70.2 
 65.8 
 63.2 
 
 o 
 53.3 
 53.4 
 52.6 
 52.2 
 
 83.3 
 77.7 
 76.7 
 
 o 
 29.0 
 24.7 
 18.3 
 20.2 
 
 o 
 ,48.2 
 
 49.8 
 49.3 
 45.3 
 
 o 
 
 9.4 
 
 6.6 
 
 8.6 
 
 11.9 
 
 o 
 33.7 
 29.7 
 20.0 
 27.6 
 
 Ineha. 
 0.44 
 
 .43 
 
 .91 
 .38 
 
 Inches. 
 Not mea- 
 sured. 
 
 Greatest range of temperature during the above period, 45°. 6. 
 Greatest range of barometer from June 24 to October 18, =: 0. 92 inch. 
 A dry season ; heavy SE. gales in September. 
 
TUE UNITED STATES COAST SURVEY, 
 
 159 
 
 ABSTRACT— Continued. 
 
 Time. 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 8> 
 
 ll 
 
 o a 
 
 o *" 
 Ml 
 
 I 
 
 
 1856.— May 
 
 June..... 
 July 
 
 Auguat ... 
 September, 
 
 o 
 67. 1 
 
 69.0 
 
 Tt.S 
 
 7J.2 
 
 72.8 
 
 o 
 48.7 
 
 61.1 
 
 81.7 
 
 53.6 
 
 61.1 
 
 o 
 85.7 
 84.4 
 84.7 
 83. 7 
 85.1 
 
 o 
 31.1 
 
 27.4 
 29.7 
 25.5 
 27.6 
 
 o 
 45.8 
 45.7 
 43.4 
 48.4 
 42.0 
 
 o 
 
 7.4 
 10.3 
 14.0 
 10.2 
 14.4 
 
 o 
 38.1 
 
 34.0 
 41.3 
 30.2 
 36.6 
 
 Ineitt. 
 0.53 
 
 .63 
 
 .43 
 
 .56 
 
 .69 
 
 Indu*. 
 Sot mea- 
 
 mred. 
 
 Greateet range of temperature during tlie above period, 43°. 7. 
 Oieatest range of barometer from April 25 to September 30, 0. 85 inch. 
 ▲ wet leaeoo. 
 
 Time. 
 
 ll 
 
 a 
 
 ?l 
 
 a 
 
 1 
 
 
 si 
 
 
 .a 
 
 & 
 
 M 
 
 a 
 
 tzi 
 
 a 
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 3 
 
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 1867.— Three weeks in May.. 
 
 June 
 
 July 
 
 August 
 
 September 
 
 Two weeks in October. 
 
 o 
 71.7 
 
 78.2 
 74.9 
 73.8 
 65.5 
 60.1 
 
 o 
 48.4 
 60.7 
 51.6 
 61.1 
 49.8 
 48.9 
 
 o 
 101.5 
 90.1 
 89.2 
 88.0 
 76.4 
 68.7 
 
 o 
 46.9 
 29.2 
 26.5 
 28 
 23.3 
 16.3 
 
 o 
 38.6 
 43.0 
 46.9 
 47.1 
 45.2 
 43.4 
 
 o 
 18.1 
 13.1 
 9.3 
 9.7 
 8.6 
 7.8 
 
 o 
 46.0 
 36.9 
 33.1 
 37.8 
 30.8 
 26.1 
 
 Jndut. 
 0.62 
 
 .62 
 
 .44 
 
 .46 
 
 .73 
 
 .66 
 
 /ndbt. 
 0.79 
 
 1.19 
 
 0.01 
 
 0.08 
 
 0.70 
 
 0.74 
 
 Qreateet range of temperature during the above period, 63°. 0. 
 
 Greatest range of barometer from May 12 to October 13, 0. 79 inch. 
 
 A dry seaaoa ; and nuu-ked by a week of remarkably hot weather at the close of May and beginnlug of June. 
 
 The cerealia generally grow w^ll, but the climate is too cold for maize. During the winter 
 a great amount of rain falls — as much as 60 inches ; and heavy weather prevails principally 
 from the southward. It is never cold enough to form thick, clear, soli^ ice. 
 
160 
 
 REPORT OP THE SUPERINTENDENT OP 
 
 
 
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ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 
 
 A. 
 
 Admiralty He^ 144,147 
 
 AdminUty Inlet 143 
 
 Albioo RlTer 66 
 
 Alcatnui bland 38 
 
 AlUn IiUnd 136 
 
 AUcn'iBank 1,02 
 
 Anacapa Uland 20,21 
 
 Angel Inland ..................... .... 40 
 
 Angeloa Point 119 
 
 Anita Rock 39 
 
 Apple Tree Cove 149 
 
 Arckiiiclago de Uaro 131. 141 
 
 Astor Point 103 
 
 B. 
 
 Baaddah Point.. HO 
 
 Bainbridge Island 149 
 
 Baker's Bay 104 
 
 Balcli's PasMge 154 
 
 Bald Peak 137 
 
 Bank off Cape Flattery 118 
 
 Bank off Umpqnah.. . . 86 
 
 Bar off San Frandaoo ..... .... 37 
 
 Barnes' Island 137 
 
 Battery Point 150 
 
 BatUe Bock 79 
 
 Bay of San Francisco and approaches 33-58 
 
 BeedterBay 129 
 
 BeechyHead 128,129 
 
 Begg Bock 20 
 
 Bell-boat off San Francisco bar 56 
 
 BelleRock 136 
 
 Bellevue Island ....................... 131 
 
 Beilingbam Bay 142 
 
 Bentinck Island 129 
 
 Birch Bay „ 139 
 
 Bird Bock, San Francisco bay 39 
 
 Bird Rocks, Bosario Strait 135 
 
 Bishop Bocks 16,17 
 
 Black Buck 136 
 
 BUke Island 161 
 
 Blakely Harbor 161 
 
 Blossom Bock St 
 
 Blnnt's Bocks 67 
 
 Bodega Bay ! 62,63 
 
 Bodega Head , 62 
 
 Boulder Island 137 
 
 Brace Point 152 
 
 Brotchy Ledge 130 
 
 PS|*. 
 
 Buoksport ................... ... 68 
 
 Bodds' or Wosliington Harbor.................. 116 
 
 Bud<ls' Inlet 166 
 
 Burrows Island 136 
 
 Bosh Point 147 
 
 0. 
 
 California. Origin of name .......... ..... S 
 
 Calliim Bay.... 122 
 
 Canal de Haro 131, 141 
 
 Cape niaaco 80,81 
 
 Broughton 103 
 
 Church 129 
 
 Digappotntment 92 
 
 Falcon 89,90 
 
 Flattery 118 
 
 Flattery, Bank near ................ 118 
 
 Fortunos ...... ..... 68 
 
 Foulweather 87 
 
 Gregory 82 
 
 Lookout 88 
 
 Meares 88,89 
 
 Mendocino 67,68 
 
 Orfoid 80 
 
 Perpetua . . . 86 
 
 Shoalwater 106-109 
 
 Carmel Bay 28 
 
 Carrel River 122 
 
 Celetse River 87 
 
 Challam Point 126 
 
 Chatham Island..... 130 
 
 Chehalig River 110,111 
 
 Chekto River 77 
 
 Chinook Point lOt 
 
 Clark's Island 137 
 
 Columbia River 11-106 
 
 Columbia River. Entrance to .. 93-102 
 
 Colvos Passage 16t 
 
 Colvos Rocks 166 
 
 Commencement Bay 163 
 
 Cone Islands . ... 14t 
 
 Copalis River Ill 
 
 Coquille River 81 
 
 Cordova Bay 131 
 
 Cortes Shoal 16 
 
 Cowichin Head 131 
 
 Crescent Bay . US 
 
 Crescent City Bay 74 
 
 Cuylor's Harbor 23 
 
 Cypress Island 136,142 
 
164 
 
 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 
 
 D. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Darcy Island 131 
 
 Decatxir Island 135 
 
 Deception Island 135 
 
 Deception Pass.. 135 
 
 Deer Lagoon 148 
 
 Denis Rock 136 
 
 Destruction Island . 114 
 
 Discovery Island . 130 
 
 Double Bluflf. 147 
 
 Dragon Hocks . 76 
 
 Duntze Rock 117 
 
 Duwamish Bay. 149 
 
 Duxbury Point and Beef 68 
 
 E. 
 
 Eagle Harbor . 151 
 
 East Point 132 
 
 EdizHook .'. 123 
 
 Eel River 68 
 
 El Coxo 13 
 
 El Moro 26 
 
 Elwha River 123 
 
 Entrance Rock 135 
 
 Entrance to Columbia River 93-102 
 
 Esquimault Harbor . 129 
 
 Eureka 69 
 
 Explanatory remarks 1,2 
 
 F. 
 
 False Dungeness 123 
 
 False Klamath 74 
 
 False Mendocino 68 
 
 False Tillamook 89 
 
 Farallones 60,62 
 
 Fauntleroy Cove 152 
 
 Fern Cove . 152 
 
 Fidalgo Island. 135 
 
 Fin Rock 81 
 
 Fishguard Island 129 
 
 Flattery Rocks 115 
 
 Fort Point 135 
 
 Fort Ross 63 
 
 J'oulweather Bluff 148 
 
 Fox Island 163 
 
 Fraser's River 140 
 
 G. 
 
 Geographical positions. Tableof.. 160-162 
 
 Gig Harbor 153 
 
 Gold Bluff 73 
 
 Golden Gate 33 37 
 
 Gordon River 127 
 
 Gray's Bay _ 104 
 
 Gray' s Harbor . HO 
 
 Gueraes Island 142 
 
 Gulf of Georgia 139 
 
 H. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Hahainish Harbor 157 
 
 Hautboy Island . .. 136 
 
 Haven's Anchorage 64 
 
 Hazel Point 157 
 
 Henry Island 132 
 
 Hood's Canal 148,155 
 
 Hood's Head 155 
 
 Humboldt Bay 68-72 
 
 Humboldt, town of 71 
 
 I. 
 
 Illinois Eiver 77 
 
 Introductory Remarks 2,3 
 
 Islands of Santa Barbara Channel 13-15 
 
 J. 
 
 James' Island 136 
 
 Java Head . 132 
 
 Juan de Fuca. Straits of 118 
 
 K. 
 
 Kelp. Fields of 134 
 
 Kilisut Harbor . 145 
 
 Klamath River 74 
 
 Koitlah Point 120 
 
 Koos Bay 83 
 
 L. 
 
 Lake Washington — 150 
 
 Leadbetter Point 106,107 
 
 Long Island. Shoal water Bay 108 
 
 Lopez Bay 135 
 
 Lopez Island 134 
 
 Los Coronados . 3 
 
 Lob Esteros 26 
 
 Low Point . 123 
 
 Lummi Island 137 
 
 Lummi Rock 137 
 
 M. 
 
 Mad River 72 
 
 Magnolia Bluff 150 
 
 Marrowstone Point 147 
 
 Matia Group 147,148 
 
 Mats-mats Harbor 156 
 
 McNeil Island 154 
 
 Mendocino Bay 65, 66 
 
 Middle Farallone 61 
 
 Mile Rocks 35 
 
 Minor Island 133 
 
 Mission of San Buenaventura 9 
 
 Monte de Buchon 26 
 
 Monterey Bay 29-31 
 
 Mount Baker 145 
 
 Beacon .. 130 
 
 Chatham 126 
 
 Douglas 130 
 
 Erie 136 
 
ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 
 
 165 
 
 Iloont Olympoa. ............................ 113 
 
 Piklenno . ............................ fit 
 
 MuUny B»y 147 
 
 N. 
 
 Kuiiimo Bay 141 
 
 Vhnomt, the 153 
 
 Kaul River 108 
 
 Nawoicgah Rirer 88 
 
 Kecbane Birei 87 
 
 Nee-«h B»y 120-122 
 
 Nehalem Blyer 89 
 
 Meluu RlTer 87 
 
 Nertoggkh Elver 87 
 
 New DuDgeneM Bmj . lU 
 
 NItqittlly ...... IfiS 
 
 Nodule PolQt 147 
 
 North Beach 88 
 
 North Farallonee.... 61 
 
 North Point 88 
 
 Noyon River.......... .. 65 
 
 0. 
 
 OiJiCove 147 
 
 Obaervatory Boclu 127,128 
 
 Olympia 166 
 
 OrvuB bland 137 
 
 Orford Reef 83 
 
 Ortoe Creelt 31 
 
 Otter Point 128 
 
 Outer Telegraph Station . ......... . 40 
 
 Owen Point 127 
 
 P. 
 
 Palnx Biver 108 
 
 Parry Bay 129 
 
 Patoa lalands 132, 138 
 
 Peapods 137 
 
 Pedder Bay 129 
 
 Peecador River 32 
 
 Piedras Blaocaa 27 
 
 Pillar Point 122 
 
 Pine lalaod..... 108 
 
 Point Adami... 91 
 
 Angelee 124 
 
 Alio Nuevo ... . ... 29,32 
 
 Arguello . . ...... . 24 
 
 Boneta . . 33 
 
 Brown 110 
 
 Carmel 28 
 
 Conception n 
 
 Convenion 9 
 
 Cypres 28 
 
 Defiance 153 
 
 Diablo 37 
 
 Diiney ...^ 132 
 
 Duma 9 
 
 Edmund 149 
 
 Elliott 149 
 
 Ellig 103 
 
 Fermin .............. 8 
 
 Point Qeorga 103 
 
 OrettTtlle ............. lij 
 
 Hauon . no 
 
 Hudion 144 
 
 Jeflemn . 149 
 
 Lawrence...................... .... 137 
 
 Loboa 34 
 
 Loma ....... ............. 4 
 
 Lo« Brteroa... 26 
 
 Hicamontes ........................... S3 
 
 New 110 
 
 No Point 148 
 
 Partridge 144 
 
 Pedemalea 24 
 
 Hno6 28 
 
 Pnlly 162 
 
 Puriraima 24 
 
 Reyes ................... 59 
 
 Roberts 140 
 
 San Jo«i 37 
 
 San Loii 25 
 
 San Pedro 33 
 
 Saucelito 40 
 
 St George 76 
 
 Sur 27 
 
 Tomales .. 6S 
 
 Vinccnte ...... 9 
 
 Wells 149 
 
 Whitehom 139 
 
 Wilson ...... 127 
 
 Port Angclea 123 
 
 IMsoovery 126 
 
 Gamble 166 
 
 Ludlow 166 
 
 Madison . .. 149 
 
 Orchard 149 
 
 Orford ........ 78-80 
 
 San Juan .. 127 
 
 Townshcnd 144-146 
 
 Possession Sound .. 148 
 
 Presidio 40 
 
 Presidio Shoal . .... 39 
 
 Protection Island. 126 
 
 Puerto False ...... . 7 
 
 Pugct's Sound 153,157 
 
 Punta de Arena ................ . 64 
 
 Punta de la Santa Crux.. 29 
 
 Punta de lea Cavallos 40 
 
 Punta Qorda, North 67 
 
 Punta Gorda, South 27 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quartermaster's Harbor . .... ... 153 
 
 Qne-ni-ult River 113 
 
 Quimper Peninsula 145 
 
 R. 
 
 Race Islands 129 
 
 Bed BluJf 69 
 
 Bedding's Book 73 
 
 Baatontion Point 161 
 
166 
 
 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 
 
 Page. 
 
 Bincon 41 
 
 Kio de Pajaro 30 
 
 Eock Duncan 117 
 
 Bock Island 137 
 
 Eogue's River 77,78 
 
 Eogue's Kiver Eeef 78 
 
 Eosario Strait. . .. 134,141 
 
 Round Island 108 
 
 S. 
 
 Salinas River 30 
 
 San Buenaventura Mission 9 
 
 San Clemente, Island of - 17, 18 
 
 San Diego Bay . 4-7 
 
 San Francisco Bar — -..- 37 
 
 San Francisco Bay 33-47 
 
 San Gregorio River . 32 
 
 San Juan Capistrano 7 
 
 San Luis Obispo — 25 
 
 San Luis Ray 7 
 
 San Miguel Island - 23,24 
 
 San Miguel, Rocks near 24 
 
 San Nicolas Island 19,20 
 
 San Pedro Bay 7-9 
 
 San Simeon Bay 26 
 
 Sandy Island 102 
 
 Sandy Point 138 
 
 Santa Barbara Channel, general remarks on islands 
 
 in 13-15 
 
 Santa Barbara Channel , remarks on 15 
 
 Santa Barbara, Island of - 19 
 
 Santa Barbara Harbor 10 
 
 Santa Catalina Island 18,19 
 
 Santa Cruz Harbor - 31 
 
 Santa Cruz Island 21,22 
 
 Santa Rosa Island - 22 
 
 Sares Head 136 
 
 Saturna Island 132 
 
 Scaget River 1*^ 
 
 ScatchetHead 1*8 
 
 Seabock Wand 15'? 
 
 Seal Rocks ^5 
 
 Seattle Rock 1^0 
 
 Sekon Point 122 
 
 Shag Rock ^^ 
 
 Shelter Cove ^^ 
 
 Sheringham Point 128 
 
 Shoal Bight ^^^5 
 
 Shoals 1^* 
 
 Shoalwater Bay 1<*^ 
 
 Sidney Island ^^^ 
 
 Sikhs River 81 
 
 Sinclair Island 137,142 
 
 Sir Francis Drake's Bay 68, 69 
 
 Sisters, The ^37 
 
 Skipjack Islands 132 
 
 Slip Point 122 
 
 Smith's Island 133 
 
 Smith's River '^'^ 
 
 Page. 
 
 Sooko Inlet 128 
 
 Sonth Farallone 60,61 
 
 St. George's Bay 76 
 
 Steilacoom . 154 
 
 Strait of Juan de Fuca 118 
 
 Strawberry Bay , 136 
 
 Striped Peak 122,123 
 
 Stuart Island 132 
 
 Sturgeon Bank 141 
 
 Sucia Group 132,138 
 
 Suquamish Harbor 157 
 
 T. 
 
 Table Bluff 69 
 
 Tila Point 156 
 
 Tatoosh Island 126,127 
 
 Telegraph Hill 38,40 
 
 Termination Point 157 
 
 Tichcnor's Rock 79 
 
 Tillamook Bay 89 
 
 Tillamook Head 90 
 
 Tomales Bay 62 
 
 Tongue Point 103 
 
 Trial Islands 130 
 
 Trinidad Bay 72,73 
 
 Trinidad Head 72 
 
 Tumbo Island 132 
 
 u. 
 
 Umpquah River. - 83,85 
 
 Unit Rock 131-141 
 
 Useless Bay 148 
 
 V. 
 
 Vancouver Island 127 
 
 Vashon's Island 163 
 
 Vendovi Island 142 
 
 Victoria Harbor 130 
 
 Village Point 138 
 
 Viti Rocks 137 
 
 w. 
 
 Waaddah Island 120 
 
 Waldron Island 132 
 
 Washington Harbor . 125 
 
 Watmough Head 134 
 
 West Point 160 
 
 Whidbey Island 133 
 
 Whilapab Eiver 108 
 
 Williamson's Rocks 136 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yaquinnah Eiver -. 86 
 
 Yerba Buena Island — -- 39 
 
 Young's Bay - 104 
 
 Young's Island 136 
 
 Young's Point - 103 
 
 z. 
 
 ZeroRock 13^ 
 
EBBATA. 
 
 Fkge 63: line 20, foi 10".S read 30".4. 
 
 Page 63: Line 81, for 29" reiul 28".8. 
 
 Fkgo 85: Line 13 from bottom, for 4^.3 re*d 45".3. 
 
 Pago 133: Line 3, for 123° 14 read 123° 14'. 
 
 Page 146: line 9, for 25". 6 read 25".8. 
 
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