vt..-tT-' -,\\-::z:. t -^Ar THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES 1^ (f •1 /-"■ THE EOKEST OF DAETMOOE. lONDON PBINTED Br SPOTTISWOODE AXD CO. NEW-SIEBET SQUARE HL-ilAiiUlltAiiI^I'llliil -■>*fl DARTMOOR DAYS OB SCENES IN THE FOREST. A POEM. BY THE REV. E. V7. L. DA VIES, M.A. Fluniina amem sylvasque inglorius.' LONDON: LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, ROBERTS, & GREEN. 1863. TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PEINCE OF WALES AND . DUKE OF CORNWALL ETC. THIS POEM IS BY GRACIOUS PERMISSION MOST HUMBLY DEDICATED BY HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS'S FAITHFUL AXD MOST OBEDIENT SERVANT. THE AUTHOR. 629893 i ARGUMENT. HE scene of the following poem is laid chiefly \vithin the Forest of Dartmoor. In the first part, the time of action includes a week in the month of November ; in the second, a week in May. The dramatis personce are a party of gentlemen more or less connected with the County of Devon. DABTMOOE DAYS. PAET FIEST. OME, Goddess of the silver bow, Forth to the woodlands let us go ; Oh come with him who loves to OAvn The glories of thy sylvan throne ; Who, from his youth, has bowed the knee In wild ecstatic love for thee ; And ever from that day has been Devoted to his forest Queen. Oft has he viewed thy maiden grace In every form that marks the chase ; B 7 THE FOREST. And ol'teu ou tlie flood and fell, Pursued the charms he loved so well Then aid him as he takes to wing And woodland joys attempts to sing. II Far in Devonia's favoured land Extends a forest wild and grand ; Where oozing forth with gentle song Trickles the tiny Dart along ; But ere it quits the peaty soil The Infant waters chafe and boil, And, rushing on with mighty I'oar, Awake the woods from shore to shore. Here fountains that perennial seem The source of many a noble stream, THE STREAMS. Rise sparkling from the Giver's hands And wend their way to grateful lands : They charm the eye where'er they flow, They bless the verdant meads below, And bear upon their bosom-tide A world of commerce far and wide. Ill Yet higher far than fountains rise, The giant tors approach the skies ; And often on their rugged breast The slumbering clouds are seen to rest ; Jove was a better judge, I trow, In days of old than he is now ; When Juno on her bosom fair Sustaixied Ixion's form in air. b2 THE TOES. Witli boulder upon boulder piled The frowning structures crown the wild ; Thus Ossa upon Pelion nods, The Avork of men at war with gods. At eve to strangers they would seem Like castles of a troubled dream, Or play -work of some giant race Wlio pitched and tossed them into place— Those pillars that support the sky Were landmarks of a Avorld gone by : Long ere the ark was under weigh Yon granite tors were old and grey : Untouched by time or other foes, They mocked the deluge as it rose ; And there defiant still they stand The pyramids of Nature's hand. A HARD NUESE. IV And oft on highest crag is seen An oak in miniature, I Aveen ; A come-by-chance, di-opped from the store Of some lone bird in passing o*er ; Eough cradle for the infant tree Thus nui'tured in adversity — Of stunted and fantastic form, It laughs at hurricane and storm, And braves securely every shoclf, A British oak from stem to stock — Again, long tufts of moss depend Fast clinging to their stm-dy friend. And waving sadly in the Avind Eecall funereal plumes to mind ; Or, moistened by the misty shower Like banner on some shattered tower, SERMONS IN STONES. That droops and sighs and seems to weep The downfall of the feudal keep. Majestic still the tors remain The monarchs of the lonely plain ; And as the shades of night draw near, They scare the peasant's soul with fear ; While thoughtfiil minds in them behold The relics of the days of old, And peering through the hazy past Catch glimpses of the light at last. Here Murchison may fitly trace The records of primaeval race ; And wisely from the mystic page Draw moral for the j^resent age : Or Owen with ingenious brain The secrets of the past explain. ANTE-NOACHIC. VI From these strongholds mayhap of yore The Mastodon has ranged the moor, And gamboled in the granite halls, Or stood a siege within the walls ; Wliile posted on the topmost stone A Dodo held the watch alone. Or had the region classic been, A troop of Centaurs might be seen Careering o'er the boundless plain, Pursued by Lapithaj again. Nations have come and gone since then. And earth has changed her race of men ; Druids and Celts have passed away, The Priests and Pagans of the day ; And misty curtains intervene Betwixt the past and present scene ; GREAT MISTOR. Nor liviug hand is left to trace That dim and parenthetic space. VII Great Mistor near the centre stands, Looming above the dreary lands ; Here heathery wastes, and there the mires, Surround for miles the rocky spires ; O'er hill and dale and wavy plain The eye will seek for bounds in vain : On every side it seems to be Illimitable, wild, and free. Full many a league of moss and moor The fleetest foot may wander o'er ; But ere the farthest point it gain The tired foot will halt with pain : THE WASTE. The eye may sweep the plain aright, Still distant plains evade the sight, And ere the wide expanse it see The keenest eye wall weary be. VIII Old Nature's impress marks the moor From Heytor to the western shore ; Shaggy and stern and unreclaimed, She could not, if she would, be tamed. No signs of graceiul art abound At variance with the scene aroimd : But barren heath and granite grey Acknowledge Nature's potent sway ; Her rugged features still as grand As fashioned by the Maker s hand. 10 DART-MEET. Here Solitude and Silence reign Sole tenants? of the dreary plain ; And, save the merry mountain rill, The waste arovmd is sad and stiU : Impressive scenes that well impart A thoughtful sense to every heart ; And to the pensive soul recall A type of endless rest to all. IX ^ Than fair Dart-meet full well I ween, A sweeter spot was never seen : From Cranmere's fount the waters flow In parted streams to vales below. And wandering here the happy twain Like loving sisters meet again. * BRIMPTS. 11 Beyond the hanging woods a glimpse TeRs you at once the place is Brimpts ; A hall of no pretence or fame Save to a few who love its name ; The few who never can forget The meetings of that joyous set, Who years ago resorted there, When sorrow was as light as air. In autumn and in spring the same, Like birds of passage there they came ; Attracted by the forest chase, The himting runs and killing pace ; And youthful, strong, and full of hope They swept the plain or mountain slope. A simple joy to cheer the mind ; A charm without a pang behind ! Ay, time itself can scarce efface The golden hght that gilds the place. 12 A FAIR EXCHANGE. Forth to the battle-field they come, Like soldiers at the beat of drum ; Two brothers loving all that's good, Whether in city, field or flood, Leave, to enjoy the moorland wind. The sunny bank of Exe behind. The Exe may flow with silvery sands And fertilise its fairy lands ; Pactolus with its golden stream May realise the poet's dream ; With rugged Dart they can't compare, So turbulent and yet so fair : — Thus felt the twain when first they tried The fi-eedom of the mountain side ; And evermore they '11 tell with praise Of forest meets and Dartmoor days. A VIGNETTE. 13 XI Another pair impart, I ween, Fast colours to the flying scene : Two sons of Mars, preferring far Diana's charms to toils of war, Have changed awhile their heavy guns For Manton and the moorland runs. Gallant and prompt to none they yield Precedence on the battle field ; And well they hold at board or chase A social and a foremost place. Sprung from a sire of wondrous might, An athlete in a moral fight ; One who for truth would calmly brave The trials of a martyr's grave ; 14 SAD MEMORIES. Who stands on guard for Church and State, A lion at the entrance gate. On points of faith or wavering doubt SHght menace brings the Champion out ; And woe betide the sceptic foe That dares to meet his crushing blow. The impress of a manly sire, Thus early stamped, will ne'er expire ; Whether in peace or war it be, The fruit will bless the parent tree. XII Ah ! Postume, it makes me sigh To ponder on the years gone by ; The son obscured by many a cloud. The wintry winds so long and loud ; THE EAELY HOEN. 15 Life's crosses and their future ends, But mosl; of all the loss of friends : — In mercy were they sent we know, To wean us from a world of woe. Full twenty years have passed away And left us shaken, sere and grey. Since joyous we foregathered there The pastime of the field to share — All ! weU I mind the gladsome mom, When Strongshield with his hounds and horn At six o'clock announced it day, And forth to Cator bent his way. XIII Stout were his hounds and fleet his steed, He valued them for bone and breed ; 16 STRONGSHIELD. And rarely failed the day to crown By hunting till the sun went down — Brave Figaro and foxhound blood Were suited to his ardent mood, And in the chase full well he knew His horse was staunch, his hounds were true. The sport ambitious riders spoil Would cause his Norman blood to boil ; And oft upon the grassy plain He rated them with just disdain ; But elements so soon disturbed Were lulled to rest by one soft word ; As vapours fly before the wind And leave a cloudless sky behind. But deep you need to probe the man The virtues of his heart to scan. THROUGH THE DEEP. 17 And scarce you'd find a truer friend From Berwick to the far Land's End. XIV This day o'er Cator-down they go As straight as ever flew a crow ; Bashful and Buxom strive in vain A lead upon the pack to gain ; The hounds ahead, the men apart, Ai'e plunging through the angry Dart ; Up Lartor hill away they sweep, Like swallows o'er the placid deep : No work for Harry's whip to-day. The Hermit wants it more than they. The bursting pace and heavy land Have brouiiht the Hermit to a stand ; C 18 IN GRIEF. And spite of beans and Harry's luck* The gallant steed is fairly stuck, A fixture in a lonely spot, Well suited to a Hermit's lot. XV With heartfelt sorrow Vesey sees The Dwarf is going ill at ease : Oft had he proved him tough and strong, No work too fast, no day too long ; And now his sob and panting state Proclaim aloud his coming fate ; But Vesey for his beast can feel. And spares alike the whip and steel ; * Our friend Harry had brought a bag of beans with him for the use of his two horses ; but liis groom, on the a fortiori prin- ciple, administered them so liberally, that he succeeded not in giving -dgour and endurance to his hunters, but in damaging th o eyes of at least one of them. THE PACE. 19 With steady hand he strives to guide His rolling gait and heavy stride ; But all in vaui : broad meanings tell The little horse has gone too well. The Gunner on his chestnut steed The flying squadron tries to lead ; He keeps one eye on leading hound, The other on the boggy ground : On harder soil he makes his play And collars Fitz upon the grey ; But still his tactics will not do, The chestnut horse has cast a shoe ; And, though defeat is hard to bear, He yields to fate and drops to rear ; Then limbers up and qxiits the van, 'A sadder and a wiser man.' 20 GONE TO GKOUND. XVI Meanwliile the pack is dashing on : Yonder they go ; and now they 're gone ; The moorman for his winter fire Is stacking turf in Lartor mire, And past him as they seem to fly He longs for wings to join the cry ; For well he knows the pace they go, No human foot could travel so ; So cheering them with might and main He settles to his work again. O'er Bellivor they race along, No music from the tuneful throng; Till checking at the tor they found The sinking game had gone to ground. COCK-LIGHT. 21 Thus brutes and mortals fare the same, The baffled hounds will miss their game, And man will fail the prize to clasp Just as it seems within his grasp. XVII But wearied steeds and hounds and men Are safely mustered once again : A few pale stars aifect to shine And light us on our homeward line. The woodcock now upon the wing Is flitting past to upland spring ; The fern-owl wheels above the brake, The heron screams from yonder lake ; The Dart is moaning down the deU Like music from a muffled beU : 22 PLAIN FAEE. Brimpts is at hand ! we quit the field, And then the doom of day is sealed. The products of the farm afford A homely and a welcome board ; The stirring chase and mountain air Give relish to a simj)le fare. * No dishes wrought with Gallic skill The gastronomic rites fulfill ; No French device imparts a cheer, Nor King of Oude is wanted here : The native art is all we need For mutton of the Dartmoor breed : Dame Coaker's eye has watched the spit, And Eab has helped to baste a bit ; * ' Jejunus raro stomachus vulgaria temnit.' — Hor. ' Go work, hunt, exercise ! (he thus began) Then scorn a homely dinner if you can.' — Pope. OYER THE MAHOGA^'T. 23 And French would make the dinner out With Hornymnks instead of trout.* XVIII The hearty meal is scarcely made, And benediction duly said, Ere casting back we glibly trace The features of the morning chase ; And eveiy acre of the plain Is hunted on the board again. A lofty pile of well-dried peat Imparts a strong and genial heat ; And tales of sport that never tire Are told aroimd the glowing fire ; Wliile goblets filled with mountain dew Invigorate the fi'ame anew. * Hornywink is the Dartmoor name for the peewit. 24 THE BAXLAD. Come Fitz, my boy, that ballad sing, A charming stave ; pray do begin ; We all implore : and soft and clear ' The Four-leaved shamrock' greets the ear : He tells a tale of magic weal, The sorrows of the heart to heal, That he who finds the fairy leaf May charm away the mourner's grief. XIX Then Strongshield, who dehghts in song. Applauds the minstrel loud and long ; And well he wraps his hearty praise In lively thought and pleasant phrase : Nor fails to add how well the grey Had carried Fitz throughout the day ; IL PENSEEOSO. 25 That Figaro lie hoped to find Had dropped the grey a mile behind ; But close to hoimds he rode astern, And Fitz was there at every turn. Then Strongshield with an air of fan Straight at the Gunner points a gun ; He tells him 't is by all agreed That want of powder stopped his steed : A case of hors-de-combat true, He lost his wind and then his shoe. But why is Vesey so engrossed, Unmindfid of the passing toast ; And why so pensively he twirls The lock that on his forehead curls ? Mayhap he now recalls with pain The struggles of the Dwarf again ; Or deeply he deplores the need Of fire and physic for the steed ! 26 A BEOODIXa DARKNESS. Ah no ! he keeps the secret close, Far other thoughts his soul engross : That shamrock song has brought to mind A syren voice he left behind. But now to rest : the time is ten ; To-morrow to the field again. XX November's gloom is felt aright "When every star is veiled by night, And darkness, undisturbed by sound, Hovers on solemn wings around. Such night it was : the desert gloom "Was dark and silent as the tomb ; The hanging clouds had ceased to weep, And Dart herself Avas hushed to sleep. Scarce do the hunters rise to quit The board of social mirth and wit ; AN ALAEM. 27 The kind * good night' is on the tongue, The friendly hand is scarcely wrung, When distant shouts their steps arrest, And baulk them of the promised rest. But what the soimds or whence they rise Creates at once intense surprise ; No ghostly cause the htmters sought — They never gave it once a thought ; But calling for their cudgels stout. They grasped them and they sallied out. What eye can pierce the Stygian shade Which night upon the earth has laid ? Sharp ears alone must serve to guide Their footsteps to the river side ; For well, I trow, in forest land Those shouts proceed from lawless band, Exulting o'er their gasping prey. Like demons keeping holiday. 28 A SALLY. XXI Soon they approach the frowning wood That overhangs the eastern flood ; Watchful and mute, in Indian file, They move ahead or pause awhile. Avoiding now the shaft of tin Where gallant Gliscar toppled in ; They wind aroimd the rocky ledge, And safely gain the river's edge. With sudden glare a blazing light Bursts on the hunters' dazzled sight ; In rough mid-stream, on boulder stone, A stalwart peasant stands alone ; Aloft, on granite rock so grey. The savage bears despotic sway ; Fierce are the words of his command, And bright the torch he holds in hand. THE SALMON POACHERS. 29 Casting a wild, unearthly gleam, That dances o'er the rapid stream. Transparent now the waters flow. Revealing things of life below ; The troiitlets in the crystal tide Their beauty-spots are fain to hide. And salmon, as they see the ray, Mistake it for the beam of day. XXII Another, on a boulder near. Is poising high a deadly spear ; On pedestal erect he trod. The model of a river God. Fixed and intent, with heron eye, A fish at work he seems to spy ; 30 THE SPATVNING-BED. Too near, alas ! to tliat fell hand A salmon ploughs the gravel sand ; In furrow deep beneath the wave Her tender yoving she hopes to save ; Imbedded with a mother's care, The seed is sown and fostered there. Little the savage recks, I trow. Of thousands slain by single blow ; As little does he deem it sin To kill a fish so lank and thin ; The sanctity of Nature's law He values as a worthless straw. XXIII The torchlight, as a solar ray, Attracts the unsuspecting prey ; A PLUXGE IN TEE DARK. 31 And now the shaft is raised with skill, Obedient to the ruffian's wiU ; That brawny arm a minute more Had hurled the gasping fish ashore ; But, as the hunters hurried on, With sudden splash the light is gone ; And though they seized the lifted spear, They failed to clutch the movmtaineer. Eeckless, he plunged adown the wave, As though he sought an instant grave ; But love of life was strong in him. And, practised well to dive or swim, He battled with the fl.ood amain. And quickly reached the shore again. Poor Palinuxus, when he fell. Went headlong to the gates of hell ; But here the poacher's lighter fate Was ended by a prison gate : 32 THE FLIGHT. And often has he told the tale, Carousing o'er his stoup of ale, How fearlessly in hasty flight He swam the Dart at dead of night ; And how he hoped to see the day. In winter month as well as May, When every man might take his spear And kill a salmon round the year. XXIV The remnant of the poacher crew Like phantoms to the forest flew ; Ah ! little then his comrades cared How ill the luckless spearman fared ; Safety in flight alone they find, The gloom ahead, the foe behind. A pair of salmon, long and black, Are captured on the felon's track : FEKTILE STREAMS. 33 Alas ! imfit for human food, They slay the fish and rob the flood : Nor so unwise were they of old Who killed the goose to gain the gold. That noble Dart, Devonia's pride, INIight feed and cheer the country-side ; The swift prolific stream should yield Its treasures Hke a fertile field. As Egj'-pt's mighty waters rise, "What boundless wealth the Nile suppUes Her gentle bosom heaves to give The food on which her children live ; Needless the aid of rain or dew To stimulate the soil anew ; But spreading fatness o'er the land She blesses man with copious hand, D 34 A GOOD STOCK. And arms liim with the staff of life — The sickle — for the sword of strife. Again, where Great Columbia flows, Nor want nor care the Indian knows ; The roUing flood is made to pay Its tribute ere it rolls away : The prowling race with rare device The sahnon to their traps entice ; And summer stock or -winter hoard With ample measure crowns their board. XXV In England too in olden times Productive were her crystal mines ; When every streamlet had its store Of boundless wealth in Uving ore ; THE EIVER's pride. 35 And salmon in the mountain bui-n Came cropping out at every turn. At little cost tlie homely poor Found plenty at their very door, And raised their grateful voice to Heaven In token of the blessing given. In early spring fresh-run from sea, King of the finny world was he ; And still he reigned in summer tide The angler's joy, the river's pride. 5XVI But when brown autumn shed her store And summer sun was felt no more ; When whirled about by every wind No rest the withered leaf could find ; d2 36 A WISE PEOTECTION. When angry floods outstepped their beds, And salmon leaped the river-heads ; Then wisely by the law 't was found That spawning beds were sacred gi'ound ; Swift, brawling streams and shallows fair Were guarded with a jealous care ; And Vulture he was deemed for aye Who made a spawning fish his prey. If civic knights for once could share The food of gods, ambrosial fare ; With envy would Olympus quake To hear the praise of salmon-flake : That creamy, firm, nutritious food That renovates the human blood. And makes fastidious mortals own It stands unrivalled and alone. A RED SKY. XXVII When rosy-fingered morn appears, Her smile of joy will melt to tears, And early liimters ne'er forget That ruddy skies betoken wet. As chanticleer had hailed the morn Up-roused by Strongshield's cheery horn ; Both Harry and the Celt obey The summons at the break of day. But Fitz and Vesey, still in lair, Hear the reveille with despair, And claim a trifle more of rest, To get themselves and horses dressed. No laggards they ; but ever true. They see a distant lurid hue O'er Yartor spread : and well they say, ' No hunting on the moor to-day.' 38 rOXTOR IN A TOG. XXVIII Not tempest of an eastern plain That strikes to earth the pilgrim train, When clouds of sand are whirling by That parch the tongue and fire the eye : Not fogs that hide the rock-bomid shore From ship at sea, are dreaded more Than those dark mists of fatal gloom That make the moor a living tomb. The hunter homeward speeds in haste, Ere fogs o'ertake him on the waste ; And if to Foxtor mires he roam, He'll bid a long adieu to home ; A dreary shroud is o'er his head, A yawning swamp around him spread ; Spell-bound and lost he ventures on One fatal step — and all is done ; WEATHER-WISE. 39 Hopeless his stniggles, vain his throes, Deeper and deeper doAvii he goes ! The raven claps her ebon Aving, His dirge the howling winds may sing, And mists will spread the last sad pall O'er that dark grave imknown to all. XXIX To solve the many doubts that rise, Tom French is called to judge the skies. The stork discerning clime from clime. Observes his own appointed time ; The swallow and the turtle-dove Derive their instinct from above ; And Tom's perception clear and strong, "When tested thus, was rarely wrong. 40 OBSERVATION. He saw and thought the lurid morn Was adverse to the hound and horn : ' I knew,' he said, ' it would be so, ' And fed the hounds an hour ago ; ' The Dart ne'er cries from Holne in vain, ' But gets her fill of fog or rain : * / reckon H would he had to try ' Your honour hiow''th so loell as /.' No shepherd of the Grampian range Ere marked an atmospheric change "With keener eye ; fi-om youth to age He loved and studied Nature's page ; And she to cherish love so true Had taught her pupil all he knew. THE MOORMAN. 41 XXX Tom's glint of eye was such, I ween, As in a fox alone is seen ; Astute and clear, it seemed to claim The vigour of a double brain ; The instinct of the brute combined With reason of the human mind. Withal 't was marvellous to see His ready turn for repartee ; He ne'er was challenged, but he 'd hit With apt reply and native wit. With foxes Tom, in early Hfe, Had waged for years a deadly strife ; He murdered them no matter how. And shot them as he 'd shoot a crow. 42 A KEEN HUNTER. Backed by a leash of half-bred bounds And terriers ever scarred with woiuids ; This ragged crew gave little grace Or quarter to the vulpine race. XXXI The line of every prowling fox From Goodamoor to Heytor rocks, The otter holts on Dart or Plym, Though hid from sight, were known to him. He drove the pregnant fox to earth. And killed the vixen giving birth : * The varmint should be killed,' he 'd say, ' On Sunday as on other day ; ' But such dark deeds, 't is very clear, Tom has renounced for many a year, A FOG. 48 Or Tom himself would not be nigh Our trusty guide and true ally. XXXII A rolling grey and dismal fog, Joint offspring of the cloud and bog, Enshrouds the moor ; and all the earth Seems boggy from its very birth. A team of merry spaniels then Loving the brake as well as fen ; Of feathered limb and sturdy frame Ready to find and spring their game, Bui-st forth with glee, and lend their aid To hunt the woodcock in the glade. Scattered among the oaks below, Where hollies and the hazel grow, 44 COCK-SHOOTING. The spaniels range with steady care, And flush the woodcock here and there : Raised is the tube with fatal aim, And quick precision wins the game. But ever and anon 't is found Tom French has marked a cock to ground ; And if he point the very spot, Tom claims a shilling for the shot. XXXIII And now to cross the Western Dart Needs steady eye and practised art ; Poised on a pinnacle of rock The hunter springs from block to block ; And if he hesitates or fears, Down do^vn he goes o'er head and ears. OTEE THE STONES. 45 From Mousington tlie vicar came In search of fish or some such game ; He neared Dart-steps and wished to cross, But dared not spring on slippery moss ; The parasite had capped the stones And threatened him with broken bones ; So in he stalked, waist-deep in tide, And waded to the other side. For sixty winters, ay and more, Tom French had crossed from shore to shore ; By night or day, in frost or wet, His foot had never failed him yet. As dreary day grows darker still We cross the stream and breast the hill ; And glowing hearths shine forth again, A welcome home to dogs and men. 46 AT TABLE. XXXIV With joy we greet the evening meal, As hungry men alone can feel ; While other friends have come from far To join us in the mimic war. The banquet spread in bounteous ways Is worthy of Homeric praise ; A loin of beef of knightly size, A goose that fills the feasting eyes ; A flight of woodcock fresh in store, And what could hunters wish for more ? But still ungated all would try The merits of a monster pie : Six noble cocks had ceased to crow In Harry's poultry-yard, I know ; A BAD MIXTUKE. 47 Then eggs and ham and all were thrust Beneath a broad expanse of crust In platter gi'and, as Ccesar's dish Designed for one immortal fish. Alas ! the stimpter 'neath his load Had stumbled rudely on the road, And sundiy flasks of old Bordeaux Had burst and soaked the pasty through. Oh ! sad were Hany's feehngs moved To find the compound disapproved ; With double grief his heart was filled, His wine was lost, his cocks were killed ; The bonnie birds he wished tmslain And crowing in his yard again. 48 A DREAM OF THE CHASE. XXXV In liorse-slioe form the party meet And gather round the glowing peat ; Again, the evening ne'er too long Is shortened by the tale and song ; And here and there upon the groimd Whimpers a happy di-eaming hound : The pioneers of many a run, Thus honoured when the chase is done ; While we beguile the night again With visions of the next campaign. XXXVI Exalted to a sylvan throne ' King of the West ' * has come from Holne ; * John King, Esq., of Fowelscombe, was long kno\;v'n in the county of Devon by the title of ' King of the West,' given to JOHN KI^■G. 49 Brimfiil of heartiness and glee No pride he knows though King he be : He tells US tales of many a run, And decks them with a dash of fun. Full well the wily fox he knows, His habits and the point he goes ; Nor is there on the Western ground A better judge of horse and hound. Then out spoke King, on sport intent, ' Trelawny meets at Over-Brent, ' And while I 've Hfe to cross a hack ' I '11 ride to see his brilliant pack. ' Oh for a fox of forest race ' That flies to moor with Httle grace ; him in a poem written by his friend Mr. George Templer of Stover. Mr. King died at the good old age of 73, in his .saddle, on the ■ffild Dartmoor. £ 50 A PLEASANT PROSPECT. ' That does not dwell until he 's found ' By twang of horn or drawmg hound ; ' Like arrow starting from the bow ' With winged flight he seems to go, ' And faith he '11 sorely test the speed ' Of many a noble hound and steed.' The hope of sport so well expressed Finds sympathy in every breast ; And ready is the glad assent To meet next morn at Over-Brent. XXXVII A soft west wind dispels the cloud That wrapped the moor in dismal shroud ; And misty curtains melt away As morning in her mantle gi-ey GOING TO COYERT. 51 Breaks o'er the hills : and clear and high Fair Ben-shie tor delights the eye : A wilder scene or loveHer road Was ne'er by merry hunters trode. The headlong Dart for ever grand Encircles it with silver band, And frets and roars in angry course Till echoes of the vale are hoarse ; The granite bars so firm and grey Are helpless to impede her way : The torrent now enlarged and bold The mountain prison fails to hold, And on she struggles wild to gain Her freedom in the distant plain. Gaily across the moorland tracks. With easy rein and wdlling hacks, £2 52 THE COYEK-SIDE. We spin along : and soon we find A broad expanse of moor beliind. Descending now we quickly gain The limit of the barren plain ; And Over-Brent attracts the eye, A sidelong cover, high and dry ; So quiet and so dense, it seems The very home for Eeynard's dreams. XXXVIII A bow-shot off or more, I ween, From cover-side the pack is seen : As friends from every side appear, What happy greetings meet the ear. The Knight of Bradley, ever gay, Foretells a brilliant scenting day ; THE COYER-SIDE. 53 Light-hearted Tom ! whose kindly tongue With happy joke is ever hung ; Than he no hunter tops a fence "With stronger nerve, or less pretence ; And none who join him e'er complain Of dullness in a Devon lane. Deacon at home on Edorar's back, With loving eyes surveys the pack ; ' Wliat heads and loins, and limbs below, ' What stamina to stay and go : '■ Our Beckford of the West,* I wot, ' Would give this world for such a lot, ' And bribing Charon for his pains ' Would hunt them on Elysian plains.' * This North -Devon gentleman, perhaps, xinderstands as much, if not more than any man living about ' Hounds, and their various breed, And no less various use.' — Smnerville. 54 THE COVER-SIDE. Oh ! would that Landseer here had been To sketch the quiet sylvan scene ; Or Grant to paint, with finished art, A Study from the banks of Dart. XXXIX The bold Carew rejoiced that morn. To recognise the blood of Quorn ; For oft he 'd known the desperate pace Of Green of EoUeston in the chase, And dreamed that fox of hiU or plain Must yield to hounds of Meynell's strain. The Beaufort and the Wyndham stud Had modified the Whimsey blood ; The Grafton, too, had lent its aid. In bone and substance well displayed. THE COVEK-SIDE. 55 With admiration in his eye, The gallant Eadcliffe seemed to sigh, As though the Warleigh oaks he 'd give One hour at their sterns to live. Wliile Limpety* on Jack was proud To hear ' the beauties ' praised aloud. XL But now a sound attracts the pack, The well-kno-\Tn step of some one's hack ; The movements of the stern and ear Are tokens that a friend is near ; And at the very moment given Trelawny comes : 'tis just eleven. * The huntsman Limpety -was moiuited that day on his master's celebrated horse Jack Shepherd — than which, over the moor, a more brilliant hunter -was never crossed. 56 THE COYEK-SIDE. Of manly form and courteous mien, Scarce fifty summers has lie seen ; And though ' close-buttoned to the chm,' His heart is warm enough within. He scans the field Avith rapid view, And notes an absent friend or two ; Though strict to time, he loves to yield A margin to his tardy field : ' Our distant brothers of the chase ' May claim,' he said, ' a Httle grace ; ' Where 's Rockingham and brave Bulteel, ' Where Harry Taylor, true as steel ? ' Britons remote, but Britons rare, ' Such men as these we cannot spare.' XLI * Ninth Harry ! does he hunt to-day V Said Treby in his hearty way : THE COVEE-SIDE. ' Quite right, Trelawny, give him grace, ' For when he cornea he '11 keep his place : ' My Eton chum, we held him then ' As Agamemnon, King of Men ; ' And from that simny day to tliis ' Taylor has never gone amiss : ' Yes, give him law whose ready hand * Is always at a friend's command ; ' A kinder heart I never knew, ' So manly, chivalrous, and true.' Scarce ended were his words, I ween, Ere Taylor and Bulteel were seen ; The latter tells what all must know, That time at Holbeton is slow ; But Harris thinks the hack is lame, Though Courtenay's clocks may bear the blame. 58 THE FIND. XLII A quiet sign that passes round Quickens the puJse of every hound ; And scarce they need the mute command Just given by a wave of hand, For springing to the cover near In tangled copse they disappear. From Wandere?' one word alone Announced the fox was up and gone ; A wily beast that held in scorn The hubbub of the hound and horn, And ere another tongue had spoke In stealthy haste away he broke ; A gay Lothario, mad to roam, Escaping to his distant home. He flashes from the copse as free As sunbeam through a waving tree, GONE AWAY. 59 An instant, and his golden hne Is viewed, and then is lost to view. XLIII Carew's rich scream, so loud and shrill, Startles the black-cock on the hill ; It vibrates on the fox's ear, And every hoirnd has caught the cheer ; It gathers up the scattered pack. And claps them on his very back ; Then dashing from the cover grey To moorland hills they bound away. In piteous tones Trelawny then Intreats the hard, aspiring men : — * Pray, gentlemen, restrain your pace, * Do give my hounds a little space, 60 GIVE THEM ROOM. ' Just room to turn ; pray check your rein, ' Then catch them if you can again.' Vain is the prayer : 't were easier far To stem the roUing tide of war : As soon the winds would stay to hear Or tarry in their wild career. But, happily, the pack in speed At Shipley tor has gained the lead, And settling to the burning scent O'er Dock-hill ridge like flames they went. XLIV The gallant fox his point to gain Must fight them on the open plain ; He never turns a longing look At Skerraton or Bloody -brook ; A FINE HEAD. 61 Nor Woollioles does he linger o'er, The deepest earths in all the moor ; But straight for Holne he flashes by, A shooting star across the sky ; And if he gain the rocks, I say, He '11 fight those hounds another day ! XLV Leading the pack and all abreast At least five couple head the rest ; With killing pace and gallant lead Dasliing and flinging on they speed": As Whirligig is wizzing by, On very wings he seems to fly ; Now Nemesis directs the pack To vengeance, on the villain's track ; While Columbine and Pantaloon Have never tripped to sweeter tune. 62 EMULATION. XL VI No fences here ; nor slieep to stain The pasture of the moorland plain ; Just now and then a guiding word From hounds in front is faintly heard ; A short deep chop is all that 's said By Crier^ as he flings ahead ; Ruby and Restless, side by side, The last on line, the other wide, With Beatrice and Despot strain The laurels of the pack to gain. Such foxhounds of a uoIdIb kind Would perish ere they lagged behind ; A glorious feature of the chase, That struggle for the foremost place. A EETEOSPECT. 63 XLVII But, gracious Dian, see ho"w far We 've left the early scene of war ; There 's Lemson, Skerraton and Skay, And even Hayford fades away. Ah ! sore it grieves me to discern Some noble horsemen far astern ; Men of undaunted nerve and mind - Dotting the moor for miles behind : Ah ! sadly they bemoan the fate Of heavy gi-ound and cumbrous weight ; So good the pace that blood and bone Are helpless ixnder fifteen stone : True beasts of burden, faith, are they Groaning beneath a mass of clay. 64 IN DISTRESS. XLVIII A cloud of vapour rolls around A prostrate form that hugs the ground ; Poole's recent pink that decks his back Is metamorphosed into black ; His loving wife had died of fright To see her lord in such a plight. Sobbing and staggering, here and there, Are men and beasts in blank despair ; 'T was found that horses kept for show Were horses never meant to go ; Like Pindar's razors made to sell, They sold, but did not shave so well, XLIX But forward still ; the straining pack Are never for an instant slack ; A CHECX. 65 On, like a cataract they pour, Or hurricane that sweeps the moor ; And now a happy few alone Are btu'sting on the wilds of Holue. But stay ; a truce to deadly strife Just gives the fox a chance of life ; A check ensues ; Trelawny then Implores again the forward men : ' One moment, hold ! yon lad so near ' Has headed back the fox, I fear.' Then, as a rocket bursts around. They spread, they fling, they try the ground. And every horseman holds his breath At such a point of life or death. L But ere the steeds of foremost rank Had ceased to quiver in the flank ; F 66 THE RECOVER. And ere the stooping hounds are led, In crescent form, to cast ahead, A hunter views the beaten fox Stealing away for Whitewood rocks : ' Yonder he goes ; press on the pack ; ' Ruhy alone is at his back ; ' That jewel, in her brilliant way, ' By forward dash has saved the day.' And now the hounds, with headlong rush. Are racing for his very brush ; And Destiny foretells the fate Impending o'er his sinking state. No longer like a flash of fire He shoots o'er mountain, heath, and mire ; No longer level with his back, But dark, bedraggled, soiled, and slack, He bears his brush ; alas ! his bloom Is quickly changed from light to gloom. THE DEATH. 67 The hounds are on him ! aye, 't is o'er, This wondrous rxm on old Dartmoor, LI No monarch of the world, I trow, Rejoicing o'er his fallen foe. Or laden with the battle spoil, The glory of his blood and toil, Could estimate TrelaAvny's bliss In such a gladsome scene as this. His panting hounds he stood among, The centre of a gallant throng ; And as he waved the brush on high, Contentment beaming from his eye, He lauds the mettle and the pace Of every hound that led the chase ; And often from that red-cross day. In cheery mood he used to say : F 2 68 THE FKONT RANK. The forward eye and Rubijs cast Had killed tlie flying fox at last. LII Of those in front 't were hard to say Who led or did not lead the way ; Suffice it now that, flying o'er, ' The Dactyls' scarcely touched the moor ; And proud were men in lightning chase To scan and prove their classic race ; That Figaro and Cromhall shone Like glorious stars throughout the run ; And forward sped the Gainsboro' blood As fr-eely as a mountain flood. ' Buller of Dean, give me the head ; ' You take the brush,' Trelawny said ; THE BEUSH. 69 ' Go bear it to yom- infant boy, ' And deck his cradle with the toy; ' Train him aright, and hope to see * True scion of your ancient tree ; ' Then well I trust he '11 ever court ' The pastime of a manly sport ; ' And spite of danger, shoals, and rocks, ' Will steer as straight as this good fox.' LHI Not himters only love to glean Memorials of a passing scene ; A trifle, as it now appears, Will touch the heart in after years. And re-create the scene anew In colours of a mellow hue. 70 CONGRATULATIONS. Slight token, be it leaf or flower, Will mark for life one blissful hour ; And feelings that were else forgot Will linger round some cherished spot. So trophies of the chase recall The men, the hounds, the steeds and all ; Old friends long gone again appear, Their welcome voice we seem to hear ; And shadows from the wall depart, As early sunshine warms the heart. LIV Then pleasant thanks the master gains, A Avelcome boon for all his pains ; Not smiles and words of doubtflil tone, Meant for the ear and that alone ; COVER-OWNERS. 71 Not compliments of guileful art, Touching the surface, not the heart ; As wintry sun with pallid beam May gild but cannot warm the stream ; But patent as the light of day An honest force their words convey, [ ' Give King his meed,' Trelawny said, * This noble fox at Holne was bred ; ' Sir Walter, too, for covers rare ' Must take of praise the hon's share ; ' Buller and him the field will thank * For covers that are never blank.' LV Then Harley spake, a yeoman stout As ever turned a furrow out : 7-2 DEVON YEOMAN. ' Faith, how my wife Avill carry on ' To hear this fox is dead and gone ; ' Oft has he had," in spite of guard, ' The pick of all her poultry-yard ; ' Those Dorkings were a heavy blow, ' That won the prize at Totnes show. ' Ah ! long 'twill be ere she forgets ' The slaughter of her spangled pets. ' But spite of these nocturnal shocks, ' I grudge the death of such a fox ; ' And hope on future day to find ' The hero's stock is left behind.' LVI If Croxton Park can well attest How Scobell shines in silken vest ; GRUEL. 73 Well may his practised eye decide The measure of a horse's stride : ' For six-and-thirty minutes' space ' Methought,' said he, ' I rode a race ; ' I 've known the steeds that could not stay ' At Goodwood, as they 've gone to-day ; ' In truth, the chase was wondrous fast, ' A perfect blaze from first to last,' LVII Then slowly o'er the heath and fern In deep content the hunters turn : But King, at Holne, would bid them stay To cheer them on their homeward way. With eager haste the horses quaffed The sweet, refreshing, oatmeal draught- 74 HOMEWARDS. O'er tankards, too, of foaming ale As rapidly the men prevail ; And many a wreathed cloud proceeds In fragrance from Havannah weeds; The gentle and assuasive leaf That charms away the stings of gi'ief, And brings to contemplation's door A strength she never felt before. LVIII O'er moorland path or trackless ways, Divergent as the solar rays, In Kttle groups of three or four The home-boimd hunters cross the moor. The patriot's fire where'er we roam Burns brightest in an Alpine home ; THE CONTRAST. 75 Stout limbs to do, stout hearts to dare, Are nurtured by the mountain air. No marvel 't is that native blood Is fresh and wild as mountain flood ; No wonder that the moimtain race Have strongest love for native place. The bleak and barren moor at best Begets for home a double zest ; The gloom behind, the joy before, The contrast at the very door ; Its rugged heights but tend to slaow The comforts of the vale below ; And all its horrors but endear The charming homes we find so near. Bright hearths, and faces brighter far, Radiant with light as evening star, Illimie and cheer the hunter's breast With genial warmth and happy zest. AT HOME. With joys lilie these so close at hand, What -wonder that he loves the land ? With night so near, aiad charms in store, No wonder that he leaves the moor. DARTMOOR DATS. PART SECOND. I INTER'S away, and long ago Has laid aside his robe of snow ; And joyous minstrels charm the earth, At prospect of the Summer's birth. The sunny copse and Dryad's grove Are bursting with the songs of love ; On ev'ry side, o'er hill and dale, The blithe and welcome notes prevail. The black-cap at the break of day Trolls sweetly forth his roimdelay ; Soft greetings to his native glen Are pouring from his throat again. The cuckoo fi'om a distant shore Returns with joy to old Dartmoor ; MAY ON THE MOOR. And wafted home by gentle winds A never-failing summer finds. Like many a worthless spark is he, Singing his song from tree to tree, And skimming o'er the flowery meads, A gay, -unsettled life he leads : Unfettered by domestic care. He roams for pleasure here and there ; Nor heeds the penalties he '11 pay. When time has tinged his plumes with grey. What though no Philomel is near With plaintive strain to soothe the ear ; The woodlark wild is there to tell The dulcet tale we love so well ; The passing Zephyr folds his wing To list the merle and mavis sing ; And Dart, to blend the whole in one, With gentle murmur ripples on. BANKS OF THE DAET. II As echo sleeps, she rolls along, iMiugling her voice with birds of song ; Her margin decked with glorious hue, A lustre on the waters threw ; And heath, and furze, and yellow broom Lend to the air a light perfiinae ; "Wliile dew-drops smile on every spray The jewels of the waking day. No Eastern monarch ever wore Such brilliants as her margin bore ; Nor Tempe's vale did e'er unfold Such beauties to the world of old. The landscape like a passing dream Is painted on the fickle stream ; And mirrors in the crystal tide Reflect again the mountain side. 80 FLT-FISHINa. Not brigliter was the silver well, Where that fond youth Narcissus fell ; Self-love alone was all the sin — The shadow that enticed him in. Ill With winged flight the moments flew, As Harry and the Celt pursue Their gentle craft : no time have they Due homage to the scene to pay. O'er giant roots and granite blocks, The refuge of the mountain fox ; They scramble on, absorbed, intent, Their eyes upon the river bent. Where'er the gurgling waters tossed. And ripples curled, but soon were lost ; FLY-FISHIXa. 81 Or, -when Favoniiis came to aid And gaily o'er tlie surface played ; They wave their pliant rods on high, And softly cast the painted fly ; And gently, too, the silk-worm thread As light as gossamer is spread ; That scarce the eye can mark withal Its natui-al and easy fall. IV With eager spring the trovitlets rise To seize the fair delusive prize ; And quick the little victims pay The penalty of being gay. But, now and then, the feathered bait Attracts a peel of heavy weight, G 82 A HEAVY FISH. That showing but his dorsal fin Comes slowly up and gulps it in. Now good St. Anthony be nigh And prosper Harry's hand and eye ! See how the line with rapid hiss Is rushing down a dark abyss : See how the rod is bent in twain As Harry turns his fish again. How wildly now he proves the gear, Tugging and darting far and near ; And sorely strains the line and rings As upward in the air he springs : He strikes for freedom, strong and bold, But may not, cannot break his hold. V Harry at length begins to feel Less pressure on the creaking reel, LANDED S3 And guides the captive close to land With steady force and upriglit hand. Again he kicks : one struggle more, And still the fish is not ashore : With mounted gaff the Celt attends And o'er the flagging victim bends : Ah cruel fate ! the pointed steel Is buried in the dying peel : Then ghttering on the sward he lies, Quivers awhile — and gasps — and dies. VI Oft on the side of that lone stream — The picture of a poet's dream — Where fancy in her -u-ildest mood Might sketch the hill, the moor, the flood ; g2 84 TOO BRIGHT. And vaiying hues of light and shade The glories of the vale displayed, The hunters meet ! and oft they stray Far on its banks the live-long day : They little heed the prickly gorse Or granite cleaves that barred their course ; With all its thorns it seemed to be A paradise to them and me. VII One sunny morn, a peerless day, When speckled trout refused to play ; Though Strongshield used his utmost skill To tempt them u]) against their will. He fished the stream so far and fine, It scarcely felt the falling line ;• LABOUE IN YAIX. 85 And wary troutlets failed to spy The painted from tlie real fly ; For whether red, or bine, or brown, It dropped as light as thistle-down : No matter where or what he threw, In vain was aU the art he knew. At length — for patience has its bound, And, faith, his stock was not profound — Strono-shield exclaimed : 'I'd like to know ' What power holds the fish below : ' Either a wind they love the least ' Is threatened from the bhghting East ; ' Or perhaps the scourge of all the race, ' The prowling Otter Tiaunts the place ; ' I Ve tried my luck from either shore ' And scarcely ever failed before.' 86 AN EAST WIND. VIII The Celt replied : * Full well I feel ' What joy it is to fill a creel ; * And well I know if mortal hand ' Success at sport could e'er command, ' That Strongshield's art could never fail ' A bumper in his creel to hail. ' Whate'er the cause, we may not knoA? ' The secrets of the deep below ; ' With wind at East and sun so bright ' The fishing day is never right : ' So yield to fate ; nor riak your fame ' In playing at a losing game. ' To-morrow at the dawn of day « " MidnighC and " Prince'' shall guide the way ' And if an Otter scourge the stream ' They '11 rouse him from his soundest dream ; DENUNCIATIONS. 87 ' And sore he '11 pay the felon's smart ' For ravaging the banks of Dart.' IX ' Bravo ! ' cried Fitz, Avhose Devon race Were famous for the love of chace, * To-morrow from his rocky lair ' We 'U bolt the beast in wild despair; ' And when he seeks the tide in vain ' We '11 drive him to his holt again. ' But come ; the shaggy, distant moor * Has many marvels still in store ; ' Let 's stride away a southern coui'se, ' Wliere Yealm and Erme have kindred source ; ' Wliere wellina; from the womb of earth ' The new-born waters struggle forth : 88 WILD BIRDS. ' Or compass-led we '11 seek alone ' The Abbott's way and Peter's stone.' Then governed as by one consent O'er many a brook and moss they went ; Now scouring o'er the flowery ling, The blackcock shows his mottled wing : And as they cross the peaty waste, The curlew quits the scene in haste ; The peewit flaps along the ground, Or wheels in endless circles round ; The breeding snipe is soaring high, Drumming his grief beneath the sky. And harpy-like, not far away, The buzzard watches o'er his pi-ey ; THE MOOll BUZZAED. S9 With piercing eye and rapid fliglit He skims the moor from morn till night ; The feathered tribe are mute Avith dread At visage of his hoary head ; And fiercely here he seems to reign The pirate of the marshy plain. XI Then, as they watch the wild birds' ways, A distant form attracts their gaze ; They pause awhile, and faintly scan The outline of a horse and man, As looming 'tmxt the earth and sky He picked his way with wary eye ; Fool-hardy to the last degree, Or mazed at least the man must be. 90 A STRANGER. Here, where the demon lights his fire, And flickers wildly o'er the mire, Leading the stranger, lost and late, Bewildered to his lonesome fate ; The man, confiding in his horse. With safety keeps a forward course. And guides him with a gentle hand Where iustmct pouats the firmest land. In sight the Pits of Erme appear, For which the horseman seems to steer ; And thither, as by happy chance. The hunters one and all advance. XII Emerging from the miry ground. With step elastic on they bound. EEME PITS. 91 As though their limbs were glad to gain The freedom of the heather plain. Soon they approach the broken soil, The work of many a year of toil ; Where, ages back, the miner's hand With hollow gi-ips had scored the land : Sheltered and sunk below the moor, Wliat cover here for rifle-coi-ps ! A whole brigade might safely lie Secluded from the keenest eye. Though still afar, the friends sui'vey A long and low flea-bitten grey ; Bearing a man of twelve- stone weight With easy step and steady gait ; The clean-cut head and swelling vein Imply a dash of Arab strain : Tough and enduring seemed the steed For longest rmi or utmost need. 92 THE FOKESTER. XIII The rider as lie nears tlie scene Appears of rough and ready mien ; As though he did not care a groat What people said or people thought. His flowing locks might just betray Faint touches of incipient grey, While freely in the summer wind They float in tresses far behind — In homely, imadorned attire, Befitting well the bog or brier, Those careless robes at least confess A pure contempt for modern dress. In outward form he might have been The Mohican of that wild scene ; Eough-he^vn he seemed, and free to roam The guardian of his forest home. A FRIEND. 93 XIV At first the puzzled liiinters scan The rude exterior of the man ; But, as the bark may never be The proof of Avorth within the tree ; Nor may the rugged surface show The treasures of the mine below ; Instead of some Boeotian boor, A son of earth, and nothing more ; How great their joy, as nigh he drew, To grasp the hand of one they knew — A hand that in the sight of heaven Without his heart was never given. XV ' Though oft,' he said, * I 've wandered o'er ' This Avild and unfrequented moor. 94 DANGEROUS MOSS. ' I 've rarely seen a native cross ' Yon hollow, dark, and faithless moss ; ' But, fleetly o'er the mire you came, ' As light as Jack-o'-lantern's flame ; ' For pace and dash, in very sooth, ' Give me again the blood of youth.' XVI ♦ We hoped,' said Vesey, ' here to trace ' Some rehcs of that Celtic race, ' Which, delving for a precious ore, ' With rugged marks has scarred the moor. ' So, glancing from the western Dart, ' The sky above our only chart, ' O'er heath and sedge, and brooklets gay, ' Just as a heron wings his way, NO FOOTSTEPS. 95 ' We steered a random course, 't is true, ' And happily have met with yoii.' XVII ' I doubt, indeed, if here you find ' The footsteps of the British kind ; ' For miners shrewd of later day ' Have delved and borne the wealth away ; ' And left these barren pits to form ' A covert fi-om the pelting storm. ' Besides,' said he, with meaning eye, ' Some living treasures here may lie ; ' O'er which in spite of desert plain, ' The fair Lucina loves to reign.' XVIII ' Beyond the haunts of busy men, ' Beyond the keeper's deadly ken, 96 THE LITTER. ' A little vixen near this ground ' A happy quiet home has found ; ' And ne'er has failed for many a year ' Some stout and healthy cubs to rear ' But nightly still she need to stray ' Long weary miles to seek her prey ; ' And oft, methinks, the raid is scant ' And ill suppUes the litter's want. ' So, to the hen-wife's serious grief, ' Our poultry-yard affords relief; ' For many a crested cock Avill droop ' A sacrifice to fatal croup ; ' Or barren hens the cause befriend ' By coming to untimely end. ' My saddle-bag e'en now contains ' A very ancient cock's remains ; * And faith, I do not care to know ' Whether he fell by pest or blow ; FOXES AND LAMBS. 97 ' Enough for me : 't will serve to brace ' The Htter for the future chase.' XIX The hunters then confess to feel True horror of the Dorset steel ; * And fervently their views impart Anent the Vulpecidal art : Sweet words are they, that seem to rest Like balm ixpon the rider's breast — But when the hunters sought to know If foxes were the shepherd's foe, And if, like wolves, they snatch away The lamlikins as they skip and play, They touched upon a tender string That seemed his very soul to Avring. * A destructive gin, said to be invented by a Dorsetshire keeper. H 98 A SMALL WOLF. XX ' Foul slander that, as ever came ' In maUce from the throat of Fame ; ' Think you,' said he, ' in this wild spot, ' Where human aid avails them not ; ' Where, heather-born, no ear is nigh ' To note their feeble infant cry : ' Where shelter in the fern and rocks ' Is shared alike by lambs and fox ; ' If once a fox by hunger led, '■ The blood of lambs had fiercely shed, ' That e'er again that fox would stay ' His havoc on the helpless prey ? ' Ah no ! the beast would soon be found ' The terror of the country roxmd ; ' The slayer would destroy by scores ' His victims on the lonely moors ; PAYING VISITS. 99 ' And every farmer then might fear ' The devastation far and near.' XXI The subject, as he ceased to speak, With sparks of fire dashed his cheek, And showed by that expressive touch He'd fight for those he loved so mu.ch. Then pointing to a distant mound That seemed to crown the desert round : ' Thither I go,' he said, ' to share ' A portion of my baggage fare ; ' Another litter yonder lies ' That sorely needs these scant supplies : ' This rook that robbed our early wheat ' Will serve them for a glorious treat ; h2 ] 00 FAREWELL. ' They '11 pluck his wings, and pick his bones, ' And romp, like kittens, round the stones ; ' As fair a sight as e'er was seen ' That pastime on their native green.* xxii Then from his lips there briefly feU For each and all a kind farewell ; He and the long flea-bitten grey With gentle motion glide away, And soon again are dimly traced, Strancce featui'es in that forest waste. Alas ! since then long years have passed, Checking the hunters' pace at last, And leaving tracks upon their brow Of thought and care, and locks of snow, A VACANT ARM-CHAIR. 101 That o'er tlieir temples thinly wave As blossoms of a future erave. XXIII The hunters oft recall with pain The form they ne'er may see again ; They miss the fine patrician face That charmed the board, or cheered the chase ; They miss the hearty words he flung With vigour from his classic tongue ; And old Dartmoor, in accents wild, Will long lament her much-loved child. Braced by a pure and mountain air, She reared him with a mother's care ; And gently, on her rugged breast, She soothed him when he sank to rest. 102 AT BKIMPTS. For ever -widowed and bereft Her lonely side the man lias left ; And now the dark and pensive moor Is darker than it was before ; Wliile he, on soaring wings of flight, Has changed it for a land of light. XXIV Once more at Brimpts ; in happy strain The himters tell their tales again ; In swifter cixrrent flows the blood, At incidents of field and flood. The rider and his speckled grey Are social food for many a day ; The vision of the lonely plain In fancy floats across the brain ; TEALM-HEAD. 103 Though lost to sight, it still is nigh, Like sculpture that has charmed the eye. Perversely some affect to doubt The distance of the morning route, And earnestly assure the rest That Yeahn's true head was farther west ; That scatheless none might dare to cross The precincts of that spongy moss, Whence Yealm, escaping, wins its way From darkness to the light of day ; Uncertain still, they doubt and smile, Like sceptics at the source of Nile.* XXV The granite pile of Crockern tor. The council hall of peace or war, * Captains Speke and Grant have at length solved tliis problem. 104 CROCKEEN TOE. Attracts tlie fcAv, wlio love to pore On records of tlie ancient moor ; And fancy now delights to stray O'er legends of an early day; When British chiefs, in painted guise, Dispensed the law beneath the skies ; And wild, unlettered natives got Kude justice from the hallowed spot. Or, haply, when at later date The coiirtly Eawleigh sat in state ; And held the balance, firm and fair. Enthroned upon that granite chair ; Lord-Warden here ; on metal bright He judged the royal maiden's right ; And Stannators a himdred strong Proclaimed the cause of right or wrong. But now, of all that busy train, The silent rocks alone remain ; THE BOTANIST. 105 And Crockern tor now seems to stand The Sinai of tlaat desert land. XXVI Another guest had gleaned a store Of lichens on the rocky moor ; Strange parasites that well supply The colours of the Tyrian dye. Like Israel's king he seemed to be Curious in every plant and tree, And told us, in inviting mood, Of wonders seen at Wistnian's wood ; Where stimted oaks of hideous form Lie shrinking fi-om the western storm ; The gaunt and shrivelled limbs are spread Like spectres' arms above the dead ; 106 WISTMAJSt's WOOD. As if with blighted hope they prayed Removal from that sterile glade. XXVII Scarce six feet high, for ages past Their heads have borne the wintry blast ; But dominant o'er stem and bole The pendant moss usurps the whole ; And haply thus the pigmy race Has dwindled 'neath its close embrace : The long funereal tresses wave Like willows o'er a parent's grave ; Such dismal, hoary beards have they, Those patriarchs of the forest grey — And when, with sad and fitful sigh. The misty wind is coursing by, LITE DKUIDS. 107 In tattered robes and dismal guise Stranofe goblin fio-ures seem to rise. Here stands a chief with nodding phime, Desponding o'er his silent doom ; And there, at eve, to fancy's ken, The Druid's form is seen again. XXVIII Freely the speaker loved to pore On superstition's darkest lore : But fi-eer far his thoughts piu-sue Old Nature in her wildest hue ; Seeking a fern he 'd wander round From Dimnabridge to old Grimspound ; Or stride away o'er bog and fell To sound the depths of Clacey-well. 108 snowdon's grief. His fairest bouquet, culled in spring, "Was cotton-grass and purple ling ; And oft the honey-bee would note The sweets that decked his morning coat ; And blithely humming, seek to share A portion of its stolen fare. But hark ! in deep and mellow strain The tuneful chord is touched again ; And Harry's thrilling notes relate The tale of faithftil Gelert's fate ; How Prince Llewellyn rued the blow That laid the noble creatm-e low ; And wakeful echoes sadly tell How Snowdon wept when Gelert fell. Then scarcely dies the loud applause That Harry's touching ballad di-aws, When, in his turn, the Celt sustains The spirit of the vocal strains. DARTMOOR DAYS. 109 SONG. THE RUGGED DARTMOOR. Let Fashion exiilt in her giddy career, And headlong her course through the universe steer ; There 's a land in the West never bowed to her throne, "Where Nature for ages has triumphed alone, And Dian oft revels in wild extacy O'er gray granite tors or soft mossy lea, Where the fox loves to kennel, the buzzard to soar, All boundless and free o'er the nigged Dartmoor. Tradition still lingers her legend to tell Of Hunter benighted by Pixie and spell, When, an-hunger'd and cold, in his uttermost need, His hand was imbrued in the blood of his steed. no THE EUGGED DARTMOOR. And the hollow recess, for shelter and heat, Disembowell'd presents a welcome retreat ; But, alas ! on the morrow, encrusted in gore, He was found a stiff corse on the rugged Dartmoor.* Of ages long past here are relics, I ween, Where Cursus and Cromlech f preside o'er the scene ; Humanity shudders the altars to trace. Where rites of the Druid a fiend would disgrace : E'en History blushes their deeds to mifold. And I'ancy has fiirnished the sequel untold, For the genius of Bray and Carrington's lore Have gilded thy stories, thou rugged Dartmoor. * The well-known story of Childe, the Plymstock hunter, who was found frozen to death inside his steed. t Cursus, the Via Sacra of the Druids. — Cromlech, their Altar, on which they immolated human victims. THE RUGGED DARTMOOR. Ill But farther to search in Antiquity's page I leave to the Avorm-eaten brains of the Sage. Enamour'd of Nature, her charms I revere In creatures of life on the mountain and mere ; The jetty blackcock and the watchful curlew, The loud booming bittern and harrier so blue. Oh ! the plover's wild scream and the cataract's roar Are the sounds that I love on the rugged Dartmoor. Unrivall'd in beaut}' and kennell'd in rocks, As King of the Forest I honour the fox ; He recks not of law, and he plmiders amain Whatever is dainty on hdl-side or plain : As wild as the Avinds and as swift his career, 'T is a sharp pack will carry this bold buccaneer ; But vengeance, though tardy, will come to his door, And his doom be denounced on the rugged Dartmoor. 112 THE RUGGED DARTMOOR. Near Hen-tor's gray covert a crash might be heard, (But, mark you, those horsemen say never a word,) Yet it thrills tlirough the heart and it fires the eye Both of rider and horse as the sound hurries by : That crash tells ' the Find,' and they view with delight The fox flashing by like a meteor at night ; With blood, bone, and mettle, they '11 prove him foil sore Ere he cain Ben-shie tor * on the rusjced Dartmoor. As a pilot o'ertaken by storms on the sea Now scuds with the gale for a port on his lee ; So the bold buccaneer with a pack at his stern Steals on for his point through heather and fern : He passes the mires of Fox-tor and Plyni, Where the steeds struggle through, and all sob but liim : * The fatal Ben-shie' s boding scream. Lady of the Lake, 3 Canto Stan. 7. THE RUGGED DARTMOOR. 113 Ten couple of hounds view liim home to his door, As he GAINS Ben-shie tor on the rugged Dartmoor, The homeAvard-bound hunter, with stars for his guide, Now beams at the thoughts of his own foeside, And socially presses the stranger to share With hearty kind Avelcome the best of his fare ; And if hospitality ever can cheer, The gloom of the forest enhances it here : Though bleak be the wind there are comforts in store, For warm are the hearths near the rugged Dartmoor. Far removed be the day ere Fashion deface The features and chaiTQS of this primitive place I May her schemes prove abortive, by ruin dispersed, And force the pet-bubble of Science * to burst ! * Pet-bubble — quasi, the boiler of the steam engine. 1 114 MOENING. The Freehold of Nature, though rugged it be, Long, long may it flourish unsullied and free ! May the jox love to kennel, the buzzard to soar, As tenants of Natui-e on rugged Dartmoor. XXIX The God of light, in silver car, Has climbed the hills of distant Yar ; And on the mountain-top is born The fragrant, de^vy, smiling morn : A few soft clouds above her play As sponsors for the fixture day ; And iinderneath are fi-eshly spread The dew-drops that bedeck her bed. The ruddy cock has clapped his wings. And loud his grateful matin rings ; INYITATIONS. 115 Wliile deep-mouthed lioimds rejoice to pay Their welcome to the God of day. That coimtry-sotmd, so sweet and cleai', With masic touch sahites the ear, UpHfts the heart, unlocks the eyes, And bids the waking hunters rise ; Inviting sounds that seem to say Come to the woodlands, come away. XXX Uproused the hunters, one and all. Responsive to the gladsome call Their couches quit ; and then, I ween, A lively skirmish marks the scene ; Loud shouts arise ! the rafters ring For water from the bubbling spring : i2 IIG COLD TUBS. In feeling notes the men bewail The scant supply of tub and pail ; And now a missing tub is made The object of a morning raid ; And fortunate is he who gains His early plunge at any pains. Forthwith enveloped for the chase Soft, fleecy hose their hmbs encase, Such garments from the banks of Tweed As forest hunters well may need. XXXI Then on the sparkling river-side The mottled hounds are spreading wide ; With curious sense, above, below, They stem the torrent to and fro. ON THE DART. ]i; Now by the rapids wildly tossed, And now in gurgling eddies lost, They wind alike with steady care The running stream and tainted air. Each dark recess and caverned hole, Each hanging bank and willoAV bole. In every nook they seek to trace The tyrant of the finny race. XXXII Then from the rugged granite shore The very welkin seems to roar ; They hit a trail ; and every hound Is welcomed by the rocks around ; As echo from her Avild retreat The joyous challenge seems to greet, 118 THE TRAIL. A thousand tongues at once agree To swell the sylvan harmony ; While old impending cliiFs maintain The honours of the chase again. Like music on a marriage morn Is that sweet note of hoimd and horn ; With it the blending waters roll To charm the sense and cheer the soul. Oh ! had the Syrens ever simg With half so sweet and fair a tongue, Penelope had sighed in vain To see her hero home again. XXXIII The swelling music now appears To fail upon enchanted ears : LOOK BELOW. 119 But, liunters, hold ! a moment, hark ! Yon liounds proclaim a solid mark. The terriers too are close before Hard knocking at the felon's door ; Hot quarters for the knave, I trow, But give him room, and ' look below ! ' See there he bolts ! a loud ' heugh-gaze ' His quick and stealthy. course betrays! Then to the surface rise amain The bubbles in a silver chain ; The hounds in chase, without delay, In wild excitement plimge avfay ; Catching the scent that seems to glide In floating fragrance down the tide. XXXIV Bu.t stay ! the current bears the pack Headlong beyond the otter's track ; 120 A FEESII MAKE. Now sound the liom and gently guide The steady hounds on either side ; And casting upward here and there, With patient toil the fault repair. Now list ! the wild ecstatic strain Is bursting from the hounds again ; Unerring notes that clearly show Fresh tidings of the lurking foe. Again he bolts ; again he flies ; And vainly every hover tries. As pirates of the Eastern main A peaceful harbour seldom gain, While British crmsers swift pursue The dark, relentless, bloody crew. 'T is thus with him ; where'er he steer, No peace he finds, no refuge near. TKE OTTER LANDS. 121 XXXV The frequent bubbles now ascend, Prophetic of his coming end ; See ! there he lands ; and now the pack Are crashing on his very track ; Vain is the tangled copse to hide The tyrant of the glassy tide ; And vain the old frequented haunt To save him in his utmost want. The dark avengers close astern Ai'e pressing on at every turn ; When suddenly the joyous cry In muffled music seems to die. — And now the wild and sylvan roar Is hushed upon the silent shore ; And frantic echoes now are still That waked the peaceful, sliunbering hill ; 122 THE FINISH. They have him fast ! good hounds, well done ; The gallant prize is fairly won. Then loud resounding, far and free. Beneath a trembling aspen tree ; Men, hounds and terriers, one and all. With joy proclaim the felon's fell. XXXVI If ever mortals could ptu-sue A pastime of a venial hue, Or earthly charms could e'er bestow A pure enjoyment here below, The chase alone may fairly claim Precedence in the stirring game. The fairest rose, the honey bee. Are not from thorns and venom free ; Diana's chaems. 123 And briglit-eyed faces often dart An arrow that enslaves the heart. But, Avhere' s the man can ever say, That, looking hack, he rued the day, When pastime of a guiltless kind Engaged his thought and cheered his mind ? No thorns Diana's roses bring, The honey comes without the sting ; And many a faithless fair wUl yield Her triumphs on this battle-field. XXXVII Beyond the roar of busy Hfe, Beyond the crowded city's strife : Far from the gilded salons gay, Where vices thrive, and men decay, 124 THE HUXTERS HOME. The happy hunter seeks to earn His i-)astime on the lonely burn ; Or in some deep sequestered dell Pursues the chase he loves so well ; Where Nature's bounteous loving-cup With grateful joy is brimming up. No venom in that flowing bowl Is lurking there to kill the soul ; But fountains ever fresh and clear Supply the hunter round the year. And when the chase is fairly o'er, How joyously he quits the moor ; Aye ! home to him may well bestow Its gleam of sunshine here below ; And give him, with its rest and love, An earnest of the home above. NOTES. NOTES. PART FIRST. Note 1. Page 2. ' Far in Bewnia^s favoured land Extends a forest wild and grands We learn from IVIr. Eowe tliat, aecorcling to a report laid on the table of the House of Commons, Dartmoor contains 130,000 acres ; but this calculation must include adjoining wastes and certain manors which do not properly beloug to the Forest of Dartmoor. Its average level rises from 1,400 to 2,000 feet above the sea ; its length is estimated at twenty, and its breadth at from twelve to fourteen miles. IMr. K. J. King, in liis interesting work on Dartmoor, says : — ' From the very earliest period, the tract of wild land which forms the actual forest appears to have been in the power of the Crown. It is the opinion of IVIr. Kemble, the learned editor of the Anglo-Saxon Charters, that the King succeeded the heathen priests as the rightful possessor of all the waste lands in the kingdom. During the struggles of the Saxon Kings with the retreating Britons, Dartmoor seems to have been but little regarded, except as far as its rocks and glens might have afforded shelter to the enemy, and, possibly, as a district from which tin might be obtained; but after the 128 NOTES. Conquest, it "became an important hunting ground ; and when, in 1203, King John disajQTorested all the rest of Devon and Corn- wall, his right to retain the royal "forests" of Dartmoor and Exmoor was unquestioned and undisputed. Ever since the Conquest, Dartmoor appears to have formed a portion of the grants from the Crown to the Earldom of Cornwall ; in which CD ' the City and Castle of Exeter are also included. There was, according to Manwood, an ancient belief, not, however, he tells us " of any good ground or authoritie," that the King alone could rightfully possess, as he alone could create, a forest. For this reason, perhaps, it is occasionally referred to as the Chase of Dartmoor, and more than once as Lydford Chase, from the Castle of Lydford, at which the forest courts were held. But at such times as the Earldom of Cornwall has been in abeyance, its revenues, including those derivable from the stannaries and fines of Dartmoor, have reverted to the Crown ; and this has been the case sufficiently often for it to retain, for the most part, its royal title of "forest." It must be remembered, also, that the Norman and Anglo-Saxon Earls of Cornwall succeeded to the rights of the old British Princes — a fact which will account for some of their most important privileges.' Note 2. Page 3. 'And bear ufon their bosom-tide A world of commerce far and wide.' The five principal rivers which rise on Dartmoor are the Plym, the Dart, the Tavy, the Teigu, and the Taw: all of which are NOTES. 12 J fine salmon streams, and expand into safe and capacious har- bours. In addition to these, there are at 'least twenty-four secondary rivers, fifteen brooks, besides manj' without names, two lakes, and seven heads ; or altogether fifty-three streams.' Thus Devon, from Dartmoor alone, would be eminently entitled to her old Celtic name of Deuff-neynt, or the land of deep brooks. Note 3. Page 3. ' The giant tors approach the skies' Col. Mudge, in his Trigonometrical Survei/ of Devon, enume- rates above one hundi'ed tors, all of which still bear their ancient and distinctive names. Note 4. Page 7 ' Druids and Celts have passed away. The Priests and Pagans of the day.' Mr. Godfrey Higgins, in his work ou The Celtic Druids, says, ' By a comparison of the alphabets of different nations, I have succeeded in showing that the Celtse and Druids must have come to this country more than 1,500 j'ears before Christ.' — Sh. v. sect. 1. Note 5. Page 9. ' Old Nature's imj^ress marks the moor From Heytor to the Western shore.' The following graphic sketch of its sceneiy is thus given by 130 NOTES. Mr. King : — ' It is the wide extent of these solitary wastes which makes them so impressive, and gives them their influence over the imagination. Whether seen at mid-day, when the gleams oi sunlight are chasing one another along the hill-side ; or at sun- set, when the long line of dusky moorland lifts itself against the fiiding light of the western sky, the same character of extent and freedom is impressed on the landscape, which carries the fancy from hill to hill, and from valley to valley, and leads it to imagine other scenes of equal wildness, which the distant hills conceal "Eeyond their utmost purple rim." Perhaps the scenery of Dartmoor is never more impressive than imder those evening effects which have last been suggested. The singmar shapes, assumed by the granite cappings of the tors, are strongly projected against the red light of the sunset, which gleams between the many openings in the huge pile of rock, making them look like passages into some imknown country beyond them, and suggesting that idea of infinity, which " is afforded by no other object in an equal degree." Meanwhile the heather of the foreground is growing darker and darker ; and the only sound which falls upon the ear is that of the river far below, or, perhaps, the flapping of some heron's wings, as he rises from his rock in the stream, and disappears westward ; " Where darkly painted on the blood-red sky, His figure floats along " ' NOTES. 131 Note 6. Page 10. ' Than fair Bart-meet full well I ween, A sweeter spot was never seen.' ' A tribe of gipsies has for a long period established itself diiring the summer on Dartmoor, passing the winter months in the Tillages ou its borders. Their favoiu'ite resting place is at Dart-meet, ou the immediate boundary of the forest ; and whether the "tribes of the wandering foot" be or be not alive to the wild beauties of the country over which they roam, whoever may look down on Dart-meet of a clear autumn evening, when twilight is slowly dosing, will readily admit that a more pic- turesque spot for their encampment could hardly have been selected.' — King's Dartmoor. Note 7. Page 15, ' Ah / well I mind the gladsome morn, When Strongshield with his hounds and horn.' ' Forte scutum salus Dueum,' the well-known motto of the Fortescue family, is traceable to the battle of Hastings. On that glorious occasion, which gave to England the most en- lightened and the most chivalrous race in Europe to be her kings and riders, ' Sir Richard de Forte, a man of extraordinary strength and courage, and an eminent soldier, bore a strong shield before William Duke of Normandy, at the great battle of Hastings, against King Harold, where the Duke had three horses killed under him. In which great danger and conflict Sir K 2 l;52 NOTES. Kichard de Forte was of great safety to the Norman Duke ; from whence the motto " Forte scutum salus Diicum," the scu- tum, or scu, being added to the name of Forte composeth the name Fortescue. In this fight was also Sir Adam Forteseue, liis son, who was a great commander, and behaved himself so well that, for the good services which he and his father Sir Eichard had done, the Conqueror gave him Wimstone. in the parish of Modbui-y, in the county of Devon, and with it many other lands in Devon and other counties. After this kingdom was settled, Sir Richard returned to Normandy. Sir Adam was the first of Wimstone Hoiise.' The present Mr. W. B. Fortescue, of Fallapit, the lineal descendant of the shield-bearing hero, still holds property conferred upon his ancestor by the great Conqueror himself. Note 8. Page 16. ' The sport ambitious riders spoil Would cause Ids Norman blood to boil.'' It is a very common practice among jealous riders, to over- ride the scent, and so to spoil their own sport as well as that of others. Strongshield as a master of hounds was by no means singular in his objections to such a jiroceeding. Note 9. Page 29. • Fixed and intent, with heron e^e, A fish at work he seems to spy.' ' It has been generally supposed that the male sabnon, during NOTES. ' 133 the spawning season, assists the female in forming the spawning- bed. This idea is, I think, founded in error, as, during the whole course of my experience, I have never been able to detect the male taking any share whatever in the more laborious por- tion of these parental duties. The female, regardless of the occasional absence of the males, proceeds with her operations by throwing herself, at intervals of a few minutes, upon her side, and while in that position, by the rapid action of her tail, she digs a receptacle in the gravel for her ova, a portion of wliich she deposits, and, again turning upon her side, she covers it up by a renewed action of the tail — thus, alternately digging, depositing, and covering ova, until the process is completed by the lajang of the whole mass, an operation which generally oc- cupies three or four days.' — From Mr. Shaw's Paper, as quoted by Mr. Yarrell in his able work on British Fishes. Note 10. Page 33. ' The swift 'prolific stream should yield Its treasures like a fertile field.' Mr. Frank Buckland, in a very interesting lecture on Piscicul- ture, which he lately delivered at the Koyal Institution, says : ' The French consider that water may be so cultivated as to be more valuable than land, but we have greatly neglected it. Ladies and gentlemen, when we consider the wonderful fecundity of fish, it is perfectly astonishing that our waters are not filled with them. Now, a bird makes a nest, and she lays her eggs in it. 134 NOTES. I am told that it is a good fowl that will lay 120 eggs iu a year, but fishes lay eggs by the thousand. The eggs of fish are contained in what is called the roe, and all of us who indulge in the matu- tinal herring know what a hard roe is : it is neither more nor less than a dense mass of thousands of eggs. Now when the fish lays its eggs it scoops a long trough out in the gravel, deposits its eggs in the gravel and covers them over with the gravel ; and here I present you with specimens of the roes of various fish, each roe contained in a separate bottle, and the number of eggs in each. These results have all been weighed, and a proportion counted out by a young lady, and afterwards calculated out by a young gentleman, Mr. Heap, who I need not say is very clever at figures. As I never trust books when I can get specimens, they were kindly, at my request, supplied me by Mr. Grove, of Charing-cross, and by Mr. Townsend of King William Street. I prepared them myself, and this is the result : Salmon . Trout . Perch . Roach . Smelt . Lump fish Erill . Herring Wcig-lit. lib lib lib Eggs. .... 1,000* .... 1,00S .... 20,592 fib 480,480 2oz 36.652 21b 116,640 4Ib 239,775 |lb 19,840 * Tables sho-rni as ascertained by Mr. Buist, at Stormontfleld, showing 1 ,000 eggs to the pound. KOTES. 135 ' Weight. Eggs. Jack 4ilb 42,840 Maekarel .... lib 2,670 Tm-bot 81b 385,200 Cod 201b 4,872,000 Now with all this immense number of eggs, how is it tliat tlu- rivers and seas are not swarmed with fish ? I will tell jou. It is because of the immense number of enemies the ova has, and which prey upon them, so that I am informed on the best autho- rity, that but one single salmon ormn. in every thousand ever produces a fish fit for human food.' Note 11. Page 38. ' And if to Foxtor luires he roam He 'II bid a long adieu to home.'' During the winter months the moor is very frequently enve- loped by a dark wet fog ; then woe be to the most experienced hunter if he wander from the beaten path. There is a remark- able line of single stones which stretches for a considerable dis- tance across the moor, and passes the very brink of some of the most dangerous mires : it is called the Abbott's way, and is sup- posed to have been marked out by the monks in their perilous passages across the moor from Buckfast Abbey to that of Tavistock. 136 NOTES. Note 12. Page 41. ' TonCs glint of eye was such, I ween, As in a fox alone is seen.' The foUowiug notice of the death of poor Tom French, of Dartmoor, was communicated by the author of Dartmoor Lays to the Exeter Gazette of January 1858 : — ' To many of our readers, not only in this and the adjoining counties, but even to sojourners in the far-distant towns of Cirencester, York, and Waterford, the termination of Tom French's earthly career will be a subject of considerable interest and much regret. At lengtli the mighty hunter has himself gone to ground, and paid the last debt of nature at the toll-bar of eternity — the grave — to him, of whom he loved to tell : My name is Death, oh do n't you see Lords, dukes, and ladies bow down to me. To him, who bestrides the pale charger and who cuts down all who breathe the breath of life, the veteran has at last suc- cumbed. The sickle has been put in, and the sheaf has been gathered, hoary and ripe for harvest. 'Let us hope that the eighty-four winters which he passed among the wilds of the rugged Dartmoor wiU be followed by summers of eternal rest and sunshine. ' Born and bred on Dartmoor, and devoted to the charms of the chase, he knew every bog and tor from BeUivor to Durestone ; nay, it is scarcely too much to say that he knew every holt and NOTES. 137 hover ■which could harbour a fox or an otter between Heytor Eock and Tolchmoor Gate. 'After being for some years in domestic service, he settled in Widdecombe, and here it was that his remarkable capa- bilities for the chase were first actively displayed. A popular 'squire of the county,* who, like Csesar, coidd do three things at once, paint two distinct subjects with his right and left hands and dictate a business letter all at the same time, is said to have driven his carriage in hot haste to a convenient spot, thrown open its doors and emancipated a host of French and English foxes on the wilds of Dartmoor. As caged animals are always the most mischievous when they regain their liberty, so these were not improved by their temporary captivity. The poor man's goose on the common was no longer safe, and even the farmers' hen-roosts in Widdecombe were assailed with no ordinary daring and ferocity. A council was soon called; and the hero of this memorial, poor Tom French, was the Sir Colin Campbell fixed upon in the country's emergency. Accordingly, a war of re- taliation commenced, and Tom with a handful of hounds and a few irregular terriers pursued the villains with remorseless rigour ; his motto being to " spare neither sex nor age," for, said he, " 'tis a nasty varmint, and aufght to be killed on the Sab- bath as well as on the week-day." ' But when, after a long and successful campaign, the ranks of the enemy had been thoroughly thinned and subdued, Tom's occupation became a precarious one ; and the farmers, no longer * Mr. John C. Bulteel. 138 NOTES. fearing an invasion, ungratefully withdre^v the supplies upon which Tom's very existence depended. A few well-timed pre- sents now dropped in from the members of a neighbouring hunt ; Tom, ill used by his quondam friends, renounced the destructive system, and was ever after, as he professed to be, a follower of the gen'lemen's sport by inclination as well as ^^ictice. Not- withstanding the loss of his right thumb, occasioned by the buz'sting of a gun, in " shooting to a horny-wink," Tom tlirew a fly with a fine and delicate hand ; a dish of fresh trout for break- fast was always procurable when he was at hand; when the water was too clear and the fish would not come to him, Tom sharpened his cutlass, or rather shouldered his spurt-net, and went in at them. ' The glint of Tom's eye was that of the fox itself, never- theless, with the expression of cunning on the surface, still there was a clear and strong current of candour beneath. No man was ever better company ; he told a story with a ready wit and marvellous humour: "Tom, you've told us what you can do, now just tell us what you can't do," said a gentleman one day, bantering him. " That 's easily done, sir," said he, "I can spend a five-pound note as weU as any man, but I can't make one, which, I believe, your lionour can." The gentleman was a well-known banker, and the counter-hit provoked a thunder of applause. It need scarcely be added that the glint of Tom's eye was more than usually significant on that occasion. ' Tlie tops of the granite rocks which lie imbedded in the angry Dart bore the impress of Tom's foot for many a year ; NOTES. 130 for he, and the otter, and the water-ouzel, were the only ani- mals which displaced the mossy-cap with which they were coTered. At the age of seventy-two his activity in crossing the Dart, by bounding from stone to stone, and pitching exactly on the summit of each, was quite wonderful, and puzzled and soused many an athletic follower. On one occasion, in par- ticular, Tom and a fishing-party had crossed the steps of the swoUen-river, below Dart-meet, but the Eector of Mousington, a young and agile man, fearing a back-fell, walked deliberately into the water, and waded waist-deep through the angiy flood. ' About the period of Christmas, for the last few years, Tom was in the habit oF^estending from his native hiUs, and spend- ing a week or two with the gen'lemen at their own homes, and he never came empty-handed. Two or three fat geese, slung over his back a la reynard, were the usual acceptable presents by which he was accompanied. During his stay at 'Squire Strongshield's, of Valley-pool, or at his still no less hospitable brother's, the rector of the parish, Tom found a warm and hearty welcome from all; "the room" rung with merriment, and the children and servants were always charmed with his company. He used to say that somehow or other his waistcoat seemed to fit him much better after than before these visits. But he never tarried long away from his native tors ; like the carrier- pigeon, his thoughts were always turned towards home. "I would rather live," said he, " in the hollow rocks of Blacky- tor, than in the finest house in Plymouth." 'Every member of "the happy Brimpts' meetings" is in- debted to poor Tom for many a good day's sport, and for the 140 NOTES. enjoyment of many a cheerful evening. The remembrance of him ■will long be cherished by his many friends, not one of ■whom ■will ever look upon those piles of primseval rocks ■without thinking, " What an appropriate and glorious monument ■would a tor be, dedicated to the memory of poor Tom French," a monument, Quod non imber edax, non Aquilo impotens Possit diruere ' DIEGE AFTER OSSIAN. ' Roll on, streamy Dart, to thy ocean home, emblem of eternity ; tell thy tale of sorrow to the sighing ■winds. Sad is the sound of grief, as the moaning of pines in the vale of Lartor. The gray mist hangs hea-sily on BeUivor. The long, weeping moss droops from the ■withered oak, like nodding plumes o'er a chieftain's bier. " Is not our brother low? Is he not gone to his narrow house ? Did we not rise to the chase together ? Pursued we not the prowling otter among the winding streams of the forest ; from Cranmere-fount to the steps of Dartington-towcrs ? The stunted oaks of Wliisht-man are bowed with grief ; his horn is idle and their echoes are silent for ever. The moon is pale on the moor ; her beam is still on that lofty rock ; long are the shadows of the tors ; now it is dark all over ; night is dreary, silent, and dark ; our brother is seen no longer ; he is gone for ever." KOTES. 141 Note 13. Page 47. ' In platUr, grand, as Ccesarsdish Di'signtd for one immortal Jisk.' This fish, a turbot of gigantic size, was rendered immortal by the 4th Satire of Juvenal. No dish being found large enough to contain the monster, Domitian called the Roman Senate to- gether to deliberate as to whether the fish should be divided or a platter large enough to contain it whole should be ordered from the potter's. The latter prevailed : ' testa alta paretur Quae tenui muro spatiosum coUigat orbem.' Note 14. Page 69. ' Train him aright, and hope to see True scion of your ancient tree.' Wlioever has wandered much in the counties of Devon or Corn- wall must have been struck by the frequency with which his eye has fallen on the framed picture of a fine forest tree, in full verdure, with a mighty bole and endless ramifications arising from it in aU directions. This, on close inspection, he has discovered to be the genealogical Buller tree, which repre- sents the wonderful resuscitation of that honourable family from a single member of it, who, to all appearance had suc- cumbed to the disease of small-pox, then so frequently fatal. John Francis Biiller, at that time unmarried and the 142 NOTES. last of a long line of distinguished ancestry, was literally 'laid out' in his coffin at Morval, wlien his coachman entering the chamber to take a last look at his master opened the win- dow, and at once, as if by a mii-acle, the fresh air brought new life, and the apparent corpse arose and recovered. This gentleman, who very properly lies at the root of the present wide-spreading tree, was afterwards married in 1716 to the beautifid Kebecca Trelawny, a daughter of the famous Sir John Trelawny, Bishop of Bristol, who in 1688 was sent to the Tower by King James II. The clergyman engaged in performing the marriage ceremony between the fair Kebecca and Mr. Buller was so shocked at the distress exhibited by the lady that he refused to proceed with the service ; on which the Bishop, her father, ordered him at once to do his duty, or he would himself perform the ceremony. Accordingly, in spite of a heart-rending scene, the clergyman obeyed orders and the twain became man and wife. It is believed the gen- tleman's comeliness had been sadly disfigm-ed by the smaU-pox, which might account in some measure for the lady's repug- nance to the union. There is a fine old picture at Morval which represents Kebecca as the fairest of Eve's fair daugh- ters ; and a noble member of the BuUer family has often been heard to say jocosely, that, if any good looks were found among the Bullers, they were attributable to their descent from the fair Kebecca Trelawny. At the present time, a single tree woidd be useless, it woidd require a forest to re- present the different branches of the Buller race. NOTES. 143 PART SECOND. Note 15. Page 91. ' Where, ages back, the miner's hand With hollow grips had scored the land.' From various authors of antiquity it has been ascertained beyond a doubt that the Phoenicians were well acquainted with the British Isles at a very early period. Homer mentions tin, ■which could have come from nowhere but Britain ; and Herodotus afiirms that the Greeks obtained their tin from these islands, ' The Abbe de Fontenii,' Mr. Vallencey says, ' has proved that the Phoenicians had an established trade with Britain before the Trojan War, 1,190 years before Christ, and that this commerce continued for many ages.'— 2%e Celtic Druids. Note 16. Page 99. ' And every farmer then might fear. The devastation far and near.' - The writer has passed a great portion of his life in the moun- tains of Wales, where rabbits and game were scarce, but foxes plentifid ; and yet, during the lambing season, it was a very rare thing to lose a lamb of which no account could be given ; and when it occurred, the ravens, and not the foxes, were considered U4 NOTES. to be the culprits. Foxes will doubtless carry a dead lamb to their young ; but that is no reason for saying that such a lamb was killed by foxes. The habit of the animal, when he gets among a flock of geese or turkeys is to kill all he can catch ; and he buries what he cannot eat for future use. Thus a fox, that had once taken to the blood of lambs, would destroy them to such an extent in wUd districts where they are unprotected, that the destruction would soon be measureless ; in fact, the fox would become a wolf in miniature. The following letter, received on March 8, 1848. and here given verbatim, contains an imputation, but no proof against the foxes : — 'Sir John Eussel, ' I am your liumbl servant George Molton. I should think you If you please to come to bentwitching And Hunt these foxes for I have lost two Lambs one on Monday night 21st February and the other on Saturday night 4th March ' Your humbel Servant ' George Molton.' A story is told of the late Mr. Templer, of Stover, who kept foxhounds, though I believe the story has an earlier origin, that a grasping tenant of his, on paying his annual rent, invariably claimed compensation for damage done by foxes. The first year he had lost a duck or two ; then it came to a few geese ; then it increased to lambs, for which last, how- ever, Mr. Templer always paid with a protest. At length, the NOTES. 145 farmer made liis appearance with a more ominous face than Tisual. 'Bad job this year, sir; worse than ever; they foxes have been at it again, sure enough.' 'Well, what's the matter now, Thomas?' 'Well, your honour, this time they have foirly airried away our yoimg calf.' Templer's forbearance could go no further ; so, turning his back upon him, he told him to make haste home, or the foxes would carry away the cow as well ; and never paid him another shilling for fox-damage. It shoidd be added the above is an exception to the usual spirit of the Devonshire yeoman. Note 17. Page 103. *I/ike sceptics at the source of Nile.' * According to Sir Roderick Murchison, Captains Speke and Grant have at length set at rest the unsolved problem of ages as to the true source of the Nile. Note 18. Page 103. ' The granite pile of CrocJcern tor.' Polwhele conjectures Crockern tor to have been the site, in the British period, of the Supreme Court of Justice for the can- tred of Tamara. But Mr. R. J. King says, ' There is not the slightest evidence for the very existence of such a cantred. Still it is not impossible that Crockern tor may have been a British place of councU. Open-air courts were common to them, as well as to the Teutonic and Scandinavian races.' At a later date, 146 NOTES. Mr. King says, ' the stannaries of Devon were divided into the districts of Chagford, Ashburton, Tavistock, and Plympton ; the four towns to wliich tin was brought to be stamped mth the royal seal before it could be conveyed out of the county. Twenty-four stannators were chosen by each of these districts, whose duty it was to attend the coiu'ts at Crockem tor once in every year. The Lord Warden of the Stannaries was generally one of the most important personages of the West, and acted for both Devonshire and Cornwall. Sir Walter Raleigh, whose an- cestral residence. Fardel, is situated on the borders of Dartmoor, was, during his first Coxu't favour, and whilst the Duchy of Cornwall was in the hands of Elizabeth, appointed Seneschal of Cornwall and Lord Warden of the Stannaries : an office which he continued to hold until the accession of James. The first Earl of Bath, son of Sir Beial Grenville, is said to have attended the parliament at Crockem as Lord Warden, with a retinue of three hundred of the first gentlemen of the West. A Sub-Warden is appointed for each county.' We are told by Carrington that ' in the year 1512, Eichard Strode, Esq., one of the Strodes of Newnham Park, and member for the borough of Plympton Earle, for his exertions in procuring an Act to prevent blocking up harbours "with stream-works, was prosecuted, or rather per- secuted, by the tinners in their court, then holden at Crockem tor, and heavily fined. On his refusal to pay the same, he was confined in the most horrible and loathsome dungeon of Lydford Castle, and kept in ii-ons on bread and water for more than three weeks. But the result of this tyrannous act was a considerable improvement effected by parliament in some of the most im- NOTES. 147 portant stannary privileges.' Eut the glory of Crockern tor has long since departed ; the Lord Warden's granite chair, the benches on which the jurors sat, and the granite slab which served the purpose of a table, have either been carried away, or have become so dilapidated as scarcely to be distinguishable from the rocks of which the tor itself is constructed. StiU it is weU worth a visit; it stands to the north of Two Eridges, about a mile and a half from that famed hostelry. Note 19. Page 105. * Of wonders seen at Wistman's wood.' Strangers are often informed by moormen that at "Wistman's wooda hundred old oaks maybe seen standing at least a hundred yards high : the fact being, that a hundred oaks may Ije found there which are at least three feet high apiece. Note 20. Page 107. * From Bunnabridge to old Chrimspound' When the moor is driven for estrays, such cattle as do not be- long to farmers possessing common rights are confined in Bun- nabridge Pound, which is a place of ancient origin near Prince Hall. Grimspound is a remarkable amphitheatre or oval mound on Hamel Down, above tjie village of Widdecombe. It covers a space of four acres, and appears to have been a British settlement of very remote date. From the close proxi- mity of the Vittifer mines, and the many stream-works by which l2 148 NOTES. it is surrounded, Grimspoimd is conjectured to have been a place of considerable importance, when the Britons carried on a brisk trade in tin with the Greeks and the Phoenicians. Note 21. Page 107. ' Or stride away dcr bog and fell To sound the depths of Clacey-welU ' The depth of Clacey-well Pool,' Mr. Carrington says, ' has been tried with the beU ropes of Walkhampton church, which are between 80 and 90 fathoms long, and also by truss ropes, which, before carts came into use, were employed in this part of the country for fastening hay, &c., on pack horses, but without finding bottom. Great numbers of fish hare been placed in it at different times, but never seen afterwards. 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Fcp 8vo with Woodcuts, 3« Gd THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF HORTICULTURE; or, An Atterupt to Explain the Principal Cperatious of GardeninffWtH!7«r's Gentile and Jew 6 Dove's Law of Storms 13 Eastlake on Oil Painting 3 Eclipse of Faith (The) 17 Defence of ditto 17 Essays anrf Reviews 18 Fairbairn's Information for Engineers 23 Fairbaim's Treatise on Millwork 23 FitzRoy's Weather Book 13 Folkard's Sailing Boat 15 Forster's Life of Eliot 1 Fowler's Collieries 24 Freshfield's Alpine Byways 8 Freshfield's Tour in the Grisons 8 GarraM's Marvels of Instinct 14 GoW.fmiWs Poems, illustrated 20 Goodeve's Elements of Mechanism.... 23 Green's English Princesses 3 Greene's Manual of Coelenterata 13 Greene's Manual of Protozoa 13 Grey son's Correspondence 17 Grove on Physical Forces 12 Gwilt.'s Encyclopsedia of Architecture 23 Hartwig's Sea 13 Hartwig's Tropical World 1.1 NEW WOllKS PUBLISHED BY LONGMAN AND CO. 31 * ' Hossall's Freshwater Algae 26 Hassall's Adulterations Detected 26 Havelock's Life, by Jfarfhtnan 4 Haicko- on Guns and Shooting 14 Sersclid's Outlines of Astronomy 13 HerschcVs Essays 13 Mind's American Exploring Expedi- tions 9 Hind's Labrador 9 Hints on Etiquette 15 ^o?e'6- Gardeners' Annual 27 Holland's Essays 10 Holland's Medical Xotes 10 Holland on Mental Physiologj' 10 Hooker's British Flora 26 Hoijkiris's Hawaii 9 Home's Introduction to the Scriptures 20 Home's Compendium of ditto 20 Hoskyns' Talpa 15 Howard's Athletic Exercises 15 Howitt's History of the Supernatural 18 i/ott'JiCi- Remarkable Places 10 ifo!<;i«'s Rural Life of England 10 Howson's Deaconesses 16 Hudson's Directions for Making Wills 26 Hudson's Executor's Guide 26 Htiglics's Geography of History 22 ffuffAei's Manual of Geography 22 Jameson's Saints and Martyrs 19 Jameson's Monastic Orders 19 Jameson's Legends of the Madonna .. 19 Jameson's Legends of the Saviour 19 Johnson's Dictionary by Latham 7 Johnston's Patentee's JIanual 24 Johnson's Book of Industrial Designs 24 Johnston's Geographical Dictionary ... 22 Kennedy's Hymnolojria 20 Kirhy and ^pence's Entomology 14 L. 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