; 

 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 y. 
 
 NOTES AND RECOLLECTIONS 
 OF AN ANGLER.
 
 CLAY, SONS, AND TAYLOIl, PRINTERS, 
 BKEAD STREET HILL.
 
 NOTES AND BECOLLECTIONS 
 OF AN ANGLEK: 
 
 RAMBLES AMONG THE MOUNTAINS, VALLEYS, 
 AND SOLITUDES OF WALES. 
 
 WITH SKETCHES OF SOME OF THE LAKES, STREAMS, MOUNTAINS 
 
 IX BOTH DIVISIONS OF THE PRINCIPALITY. 
 
 IJY JOHN HENEY CLIFFE. 
 
 " LI.YOAD A ALL WELED NATUR J 
 CALON A ALL DEIMLO NATUR ; 
 A PHINDERFYNIAD A FEIDPIA 
 DDYLYN NATUR." 
 
 " AX EVE THAT CAN SEE NATCRE ; A HEART THAT CAN FEEL NATURE ; 
 AND A RESOLUTION THAT DARES FOLLOW NATURE." 
 
 Old Welsli Triad. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 HAMILTON, ADAMS, & CO. 
 32, PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 
 1870.
 
 730 
 
 THE following pages are the result of excursions into WALES, 
 extending over a period of more than twenty years. Some of the 
 wild solitudes described are entirely out of the beaten track ; and, 
 as far as I am aware, are either not mentioned, or only slightly 
 alluded to in the various " Tours " and Guide Books. 
 
 In consequence of the increased facilities for travelling afforded 
 by the railways, which have been constructed within the last few 
 years, the influx of tourists and anglers into Wales has very greatly 
 increased; and my object has been to point out, not only the 
 hidden scenery of the country if I may so term it seldom 
 explored, the wild mountain tops, the lonely Llyns, and the 
 secluded cwms, but to afford the lovers of angling more minute 
 particulars of some of the principal Fishing Stations than have 
 hitherto ever been published. In short, I have endeavoured to set 
 before the reader a truthful description of the several localities I 
 have visited, and have described, with one or two exceptions, only 
 what has actually come under my own observation. How far 
 I have succeeded in my humble attempt, it will remain for the 
 public to judge. I have also glanced at some of the antiquities of 
 the country "those silent memorials of a by-gone age" more 
 especially, the CELTIC and DRUIDICAL remains which have fallen in 
 my way during my rambles amongst the wilds. 
 
 I may here be permitted to express my warmest thanks to the 
 subscribers whose names are appended to this book, and more par- 
 ticularly, the obligations I am under to several kind friends for 
 their zealous exertions to promote its success. 
 
 J. H. C. 
 
 3087
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 TAL-Y-LLYN LLYN MWYNGIL LLYN-Y-CAE CADER IDRIS ASCENTS 
 
 TO SUMMIT BEST ROUTES TO TAL-Y-LLYN 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 MACHYNLLETH LLANBRYNMAIR LLYN BUGEILYN PISTYLL-Y-LLYN 
 LLYN PENRHAIADR TOWYN CRAIG ADERYN DYSYNNI 
 PENLLYN POOL MALLWYD ARAN MOWDDWY SOURCE OF THE 
 DYFJ 20 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 
 HARLECH LLYNS SCENERY LLANBEDR CWM BYCHAN CRAIG- Y- 
 
 DDINAS CVM NANTCOL DRWS ARDUDWY CELTIC ANTIQUITIES 34 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS LAKES AND RIVERS IN CAERNARVONSHIRE 
 FISHING STATIONS BEDDGELERT SCENERY LLYN GWYNANT 
 LLYN-Y-DDINAS LLYN-Y-GADER . 60 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 SNOWDONIA CWM CLOGWYN LLYNS SCENERY EXCURSION TO LLYN 
 
 EDNO, &C. YSTRADLLYN .............. 7* 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 RIVER FISHING AT BEDDGELERT AVON LAS PONT ABERGLASLTN 
 
 COLWYN MOEL HEBOG CNIGHT MOELWYN TREMADOC 
 
 PORTHMADOC PENMORFA DOLBENMAEN. 85
 
 yiii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VH. 
 
 LLYN CWELLYN NANT MILL CASTELL CIDWM MYNTOD MAWR 
 GWRFAI SNOWDON HANGER LLYN DYWARCHEN DRWS-Y-COED 
 
 NANT-Y-LLEF SCENERY OF NANT-Y-LLEF LAKES EXCURSIONS 
 THROUGH PASS LAKE FISHING ............ 101 
 
 CHAPTER VHL 
 
 AN EXCURSION TO CLYNNOG VAWR, YR EIFL, AND NANT GWRTHEYRN 119 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 SNOWDONIA PEN-Y-GWRYD LAKES ASCENT OF GLYDERS SUMMIT 
 OF GLYDER BACH SINGULAR APPEARANCE TRIFAEN LLYDER 
 VAWR Y-WAEN-OER LLYN CWM FFYNNON ........ 129 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 LLYN LLYDAW ANGLING INCIDENT SCENERY A MOUNTAIN 
 
 CLIMBER LLYN CWM FFYNNON RIVER GWRYD ANGLING . . 138 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 SNOWDON USUAL ASCENTS GUIDES SUPPOSED DANGERS OF ASCENT 
 
 GRANDEUR OF SCENERY EXCURSION TO SUMMIT VIEW FROM 
 Y-WYDDFA ................... 147 
 
 CHAPTER XIL 
 
 LLANBERIS HOTELS LLYN PERIS LLYN PADARN TROUT CHAR- 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF LLANBERIS PASS SCENERY VILLAGE 
 CHURCH WELL OF ST. PERIS CAENANT MAWR LLYN DWYTHWCH 
 LLYN-DC-ARDUDDWY BOTANY OF LLANBERIS HETTY'S ISLAND 
 
 SLATE QUARRIES ................ 161 
 
 CHAPTER Xin. 
 
 CASTELL DOLBADARN SILPIN ON LANDSCAPE SCENERY DOLBADARN 
 A DESERT SCENERY OF DOLBADARN WARNER'S DESCRIPTION OF 
 DOLBADARN ................... 168 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 CAPEL CURIG INN CAPEL CURIG, PAST AND PRESENT LLYNNIAU 
 MYMBYR LLYNS IN THE VICINITY ASCENT TO THE SUMMITS OF 
 CARNEDD LLEWELYN AND CARNEDD DAVYDD LLYN FFYNNON 
 LLOER STORM IN THE WILDS ............ 175
 
 CONTENTS. IX 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 LLYN IDWAL ITS SCENERY LEGENDS TWLL DO EXCURSION TO 
 LLYN IDWAL LLYN OGWEN ITS TROUT NANT FFRANCON TEA- 
 TELLING IN WALES 186 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE TEIFI ITS SOURCE FISHING STATIONS SALMON AND TROUT 
 FISHING TREGARON LLYN BERWYN ANGLING TEIFI FISHING 
 LLANDDEWI BBEVI 199 
 
 CHAPTER XVn. 
 
 HAFOD PONT BREN PONTRHYDVENDIGAID ABBEY OF STRATA 
 FLORIDA ITS HISTORY AND PRESENT STATE EXCURSION FROM 
 THE DEVIL'S BRIDGE TO LLANDOVERY BLAEN TWRCH UCHAF 
 ENCOUNTER REBECCA 2]0 
 
 CHAPTER XVHI. 
 
 THE LAKES OF CARDIGANSHIRE THE TEIFI POOLS ANGLING LLYN 
 GYNON LLYN GORAST LLYNNIAU FYRDDIN VAWR AND VACH 
 LLYN CRUGNANT LLYN T)t LEGENDS 225 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 BALA ROMAN REMAINS ANGLING STATION SALMON AND TROUT 
 FISHING LAKES LLYN TEGID LLYN ARENIG VAWR LLYN 
 ARENIG VACH THE DEE THE TWRCH THE TRY WERYN LLYN 
 TRYWERYN CONCLUDING REMARKS 232 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 THE ANGLER'S ENTOMOLOGY ARTIFICIAL FLIES FISHING TACKLE . 244 
 
 NOTES . . 24S
 
 0f 
 
 Ackers, James, Esq. Prinknash Park, 
 Gloucestershire. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Abbot, Henry, Esq. Bristol. 
 
 Addison, Thomas, P. Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Allcroft, J. M. Esq. Lower Wick, near 
 Worcester. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Allcroft, John, D. Esq. 55, Porchester 
 Terrace, London. 
 
 Allen, John, Esq. Swansea, Glamorgan. 
 
 Andrews, J. Esq. Alderman, Gloucester. 
 
 Ashbee, J. Esq. Hillfield, Gloucester. 
 
 Browne, Rev. Canon Murray, Standish 
 Vicarage, Gloucestershire. 
 
 Bayly, Eev. P. T. J. Brookthorpe, 
 Gloucestershire. 
 
 Barber, Rev. P. H. Sedgborough, near 
 Evesham. 
 
 Brown, Rev. J. J. Harlech, Merioneth- 
 shire, North Wales. 4 COPIES. 
 
 Burrup, J. Esq. Gloucester. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Boughton, Edmund, Sen. Esq. Glou- 
 cester. 4 COPIES. 
 
 Boughton, Mrs. Ann, Kingsholm, Glo. 
 
 Boughton, John, Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Boughton, Mr. E. Westgate Street, Glo. 
 
 Bravender, J. Esq. Cirences. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Bravender, Miss, Cirencester. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Bravender, Thomas B. Esq. Pembroke, 
 South Wales. 
 
 Brown, J. H. Esq. College Green, Glou. 
 
 Brown, H. Esq. Weston-super-Mare. 
 
 Brunsdon, Mr. Henry, Swindon, Wilts. 
 
 Brookes, S. P. Esq. Tewkesbury. 
 
 Billett, Mr. J. H. Gloucester. 
 
 Bundy, Mr.W. Upton-on-Severn, Worcs. 
 
 Codrington, Sir C. W. Bart. M.P. Dod- 
 ingtonPark, Gloucestershire 2 COPIES 
 
 Colt, Rev. Sir E. V. Bart. Hill Vicar- 
 age, near Berkeley, Gloucestershire. 
 
 Covey, Rev. Charles, Alderton Rectory, 
 near Cheltenham. 
 
 Crawley, Rev. Charles Y. Minor 
 Canon, Gloucester Cathedral. 
 
 Clarke, J. A. Graham, Jun. Esq. Fro- 
 cester, Gloucestershire. 
 
 Castree, Josiah, Esq. Alderman, Glou- 
 cester. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Castree, Mr. Josiah, Jun. Sandhurst, 
 near Gloucester. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Castree, Mr. Edward 'James, Ucking- 
 ton, near Cheltenham. 
 
 Clarke, J. Esq. Gloucester. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Coles, Robert, Esq. Clifton, Bristol. 
 
 Cooke, W. H. Esq. 4, Elm Court, 
 Temple, London. 
 
 Commeline, Samuel, Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Calton, Mr. John, Gloucester. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Churchill, Mr. William, Gloucester. 
 
 Curtis, Mr. William, Gloucester. 
 
 Carrington, Mr. G. P. Gloucester. 
 
 Clift, Mr. Thomas, Chacely Lodge, near 
 Tewkesbury. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Davies, Rev. James, Moor Court, King- 
 ton, Herefordshire. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Dupre, Rev. Edward, Temple Gutting, 
 Gloucestershire. 
 
 Dent, John Coucher, Esq. Sudeley 
 Castle, Gloucestershire. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Bowling, James Henry, Esq. Barn- 
 wood, near Gloucester. 
 
 Davies, Mr. Rees, Chepstow, Mon- 
 mouthshire. 
 
 Davies and Son, Messrs. Gloucester. 
 
 Evans, Thomas, Esq. M.D. Gloucester. 
 
 Elliott, John, Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Prancillon, James, Esq. Ryeworth 
 House, Cheltenham. 
 
 Fulljames, Thomas, Esq. Hasfield 
 Court, near Gloucester. 
 
 Fryer, K. H. Esq. Gloucester. 4 COPIES. 
 
 Fletcher, George, Esq. Shipton, An- 
 doversford, near Cheltenham. 
 
 Fowler, W. Jun. Esq. Birmingham. 
 
 Gist, H. W. Esq. Temple Guiting, Glos. 
 
 Goodyar, George A. Dinely, Esq. 
 Weston-super-Mare. 
 
 Gwinnett, W. H. Esq. Cheltenham. 
 
 Green, Miss, Gloucester. 
 
 Green, W. H. Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Houlditch, Rev. E. Matson, near Glou. 
 
 Hale, Colonel, Wotton-under-Edge, 
 Gloucestershire. 
 
 Hopkinson, Edmund, Esq. Edgeworth 
 Manor, near Cirencester. 
 
 Hunt, C. Brooke, Esq. Bowden Hall, 
 near Gloucester. 
 
 Helps, Richard, Esq. Alderman, Glou- 
 cester. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Holt, Thomas, Esq. Registrar, Glo. 
 
 Heane, Captain Robert, Saintsbridge, 
 near Gloucester. 
 
 Home, John, Esq. Tewkesbury, Glo. 
 
 Hughes, W. H. Esq. Alderman, Glo. 
 
 Hepworth, George, Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Hanvey, J. Esq; Gloucester. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Hefflll, Henry, Esq. Diss, Norfolk. 
 
 Hawkins, Mr. J. Staunton Court, 
 Worcestershire. 
 
 Innell, C. F. Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Jenkins, Arthur H. Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Jew, Thomas, Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Jenner, Mr. Daniel, Gloucester. 
 
 Knollys, Rev. Erskine, Rectory, Quedg- 
 ley, Gloucestershire.
 
 Xll 
 
 LIST OP SUBSCRIBERS. 
 
 Knowles, Mr. William, Gloucester. 
 2 COPIES. 
 
 Lechmere, Sir Edmund A. H. Bart. 
 The Rhydd Court, Worcestershire. 
 
 Lechmere, Rev. A. B. Hartley Vicar- 
 age, Worcestershire. 
 
 Luscombe, Rev. E. K. Minor Canon, 
 Gloucester. 
 
 Lovegrove, J. Esq, Glouc. 10 COPIES. 
 
 Lovegrove, G. H. Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Lovegrove, H. J. Esq. Glouc. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Lovesy, R. W. Esq. Cheltenham. 
 
 Lord, John P. Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Lucy, W. C. Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Lloyd, William, Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Lloyd, Mr. Charles J. Machynlleth, 
 Montgomeryshire. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Lewis, L. W. Esq. Tewkesbury. 
 
 Lambley, Mr. C. Bushley, near Tew- 
 
 Monk, Charles James, Esq. Eversltigh 
 House, Cricklade, Wilts. 
 
 Mutlow, Rev. W. W. Rudford, near 
 Gloucester. 
 
 Marsh, R. Esq. Cloisters, Westminster. 
 
 Moore, C. W. Esq. Tewkesbury. 
 
 2 COPIES. 
 
 Morris, J. C. Esq. Swansea, Glamorgan. 
 
 Manley, John, Esq. M.D. County Asy- 
 lum, Fareham, Hants. 
 
 Maberly, A. W. Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Meyler, W. Morgan, Esq. Gloucester. 
 
 Meyler, Thomas, Esq. Taunton, Somer- 
 
 Mills, W. M. Esq. Woolstone, near 
 
 Cheltenham. 
 MacDougall, P. Sheridan, Esq. The Old 
 
 Bank, .Ross, Herefordshire. 
 Matthews, William R. A, Gloucester. 
 Mann, Thomas, Esq. Gloucester. 
 Mann, Mr. William, Gloucester. 
 Nicks, William, Esq. Mayor of Glo. 
 Price, William Philip, Esq. Tibberton 
 
 Court, near Gloucester. 
 Price, William, Esq. Benhatt, near 
 
 Boss, Herefordshire. 
 Price, Rev. H. T. Gloucester. 2 COPIES. 
 Pope, Rev. J. N. Longdon, Worces. 
 Powell, John P. Esq. Pump Court, 
 
 Temple, London. 
 Phillpotts, A. H. Esq. Severn Sank, 
 
 Minsterworth, Gloucestershire. 
 Prior, P. J. Esq. Tewkesbury. 
 Pigott, R. Esq. Stoke Ferry, Norfolk. 
 Page, E. Esq. Smethwick, Birmingham. 
 Pike, Mr. T. H. Gloucester. 
 Power and Son, Messrs. Gloucester. 
 Roberts, Rev. George, Cheltenham, 
 2 COPIES. 
 
 Rowlatt, Rev. J. C. Gloucester. 
 Reece, W. H. Esq. Birmingham. 
 Rees, William, Esq. Llandovery, South 
 
 Wales. 
 Seymour, Rev. Canon Sir John Hobart 
 
 C. Bart North Church, Herts. 
 
 2 COPIES, 
 
 Baiter Rev. J. Iron Acton, Gloucesters. 
 Sevier, Rev. J.Hasfield, near Gloucester . 
 
 Sevier, J. Ford, Esq. Maisemore, near 
 
 Gloucester. 
 Stone, Edward Gresley, Esq. Chambers' 
 
 Court, Longdon, Worcestershire. 
 Stone, Guy, Esq. Comber, County Down, 
 
 Ireland. 
 Smart, Mrs. 12, Warwick Road, Maida 
 
 Hill West, London. 
 Smith, J. K. Esq. Newnham, Glos. 
 Smith, John P. Esq. Gloucester. 
 Smith, R. T. Esq. Gloucester. 
 Spier, Mrs. Islington, Lond. 2 COPIES. 
 Stafford, Mr. W. Gloucester. 2 COPIES. 
 Taylor, Rev. H. J. Upton-on-Severn, 
 
 Worcestershire. 2 COPIES. 
 
 Taylor, Samuel, Esq. Gloucester. 
 Taylor, Thomas L. Esq. Harleston, 
 
 Norfolk. 
 
 Tnnstall, W. C. Esq. Glouc. 2 COPIES. 
 Trinder, E. N. Esq. Cirencester. 
 Thomas, W. Esq. Swansea, Glamorgan. 
 Thomas, J. Esq. Bredon, Worcestershire. 
 Trenfleld, John, Esq. Chipping Sod- 
 bury, Gloucestershire. 
 Trenfleld, William, Esq. Gloucester. 
 Timbrill, Miss, Tewkesbury. 
 Tooby, Mrs. Gloucester. 
 Vernon, T. G. Esq. Tewkes. 2 COPIES. 
 Worsley, Rev. P. W. Canon of Ripon 
 
 Cathedral. 
 White, Rev. Robert Meadows, D.D. 
 
 Slimbridge Rectory, Gloucestershire. 
 Watkin, Rev. Edward, Cogenhoe Rec- 
 tory, near Northampton. 4 COPIES. 
 Witts, Rev. R. Upper Slaughter, Glos. 
 Whalley, G. H. Esq. M.P. PlasMadoc, 
 
 Rhuabon, Denbighshire, N. Wales. 
 Weaver, T. Esq. Mayor of Tewkesbury. 
 Whithorn, Henry Blear, Esq. Alder- 
 man, Gloucester. 4 COPIES. 
 Washbourn, Buchanan, Esq. M.D. 
 
 Alderman, Gloucester. 
 Whitcombe, John, A. Esq. Gloucester. 
 2 COPIES. 
 
 Williams, G. E. Esq. Cheltenham. 
 Whitehead, R. W. Esq. Amberley Park, 
 
 near Stroud, Gloucestershire. 
 Wood, A. J. Esq. M.D. Barnwood, near 
 
 Gloucester. 
 Wilton, Henry Hooper, Esq. Whitmin- 
 
 ster House, Gloucestershire. 
 Wilton, John W. Esq. Gloucester. 
 White, Joseph, Esq. Nottingham. 
 Waller, F. S. Esq. Sandywell Park, 
 
 near Cheltenham. 
 Wilkins, W. Esq. County of Gloucester 
 
 Bank, Gloucester. 
 
 Washbourn, Edward, Esq. Gloucester. 
 Walker, Charles, Esq. Matson House, 
 
 near Gloucester. 
 Weatherhead, Mr. Robert, 15, Old 
 
 Jewry, London. 
 Wheeler, Mr. A. C. Gloucester. 
 Williams, Mr. W. R. Gloucester. 
 Williams, Mr. James, Hasfield, near 
 
 Gloucester. 
 Young, George, Esq. Glamorgan Bank, 
 
 Swansea.
 
 NOTES AND RECOLLECTIONS 
 OF AN ANGLER : 
 
 RAMBLES AMONG THE MOUNTAINS, VALLEYS, 
 AND SOLITUDES OF WALES. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 TAL-Y-LLYN SCENERY ANGLING LLTN MWYNGIL LLYN-Y-CAE 
 SUBLIME SCENERY CADER IDRIS ASCENTS TO SUMMIT. 
 
 " There is a sweet accordant harmony 
 In tliis fair scene 
 These pure waters, where the sky 
 In its deep blueness shines so peacefully, 
 A spot it is for far off music made, 
 Stillness and rest." 
 
 NOTHING in landscape can -exceed the soft beauty of the Vale of 
 Tal-y-Llyn, nor is there a " nook " in Cambria more fascinating in 
 its aspects, than this valley and its beautiful lake. It will not 
 bear comparison in sublimity with some of the more profound and 
 secluded recesses in Snowdonia, although it is not deficient in 
 grandeur when viewed under the dark lowering clouds which 
 frequently hover over the summits of the surrounding heights. 
 Under peculiar lights especially after rain, or in lowering weather 
 the exquisite colouring of the mountains on either side is per- 
 fectly magical; and the intimate intermixture of mountain and 
 lake scenery the contrast from the sublime to the beautiful 
 leave an impression upon the mind which time cannot erase. 
 The finest view of the vale is unquestionably from Minffordd, 
 
 B
 
 2 TAL-Y-LLYN SCENERY. 
 
 about one mile from the head of the lake. At this point the eye 
 embraces the waters of the Llyn, glistening perchance in the rays 
 of the sun, with the picturesque village and church at the lower 
 extremity embosomed amidst trees; whilst on the right the 
 "grey, tempest-worn, blasted steeps," of the lofty Cader Idris, 
 disrobing himself in the early morning of the heavy clouds which 
 have gathered over his brow, entrance the beholder and lift him 
 from " this world's turmoil into some planetary paradise." 
 
 " I looked on the mountains a vapour lay 
 Folding their heights in its dark array ; 
 Thou hreakest forth and the mist hecame 
 A crown and a mantle of living flame." 
 
 HEIIAHS. 
 
 Sweet romantic LlynMwyngil ! " lake of the charming retreat " 
 how often in other days have we passed hours on thy placid 
 bosom in a summer's morn, when scarcely the lightest zephyr 
 ruffled the surface of thy limpid waters, surveying the tranquil 
 scene around us! Or with eyes uplifted to "that sun-glorified 
 beautiful blue arch of heaven above all." Who is there that 
 cannot find a place in his heart if not preoccupied by worldly 
 feelings for such a scene as this ? or, after a lapse of years 
 hallowed, perhaps, by the recollection of better and happier days 
 refer to the tablets of his memory, and refresh the mind's eye, 
 by tracing anew the weather-stained and lichened rocks on the 
 sides of Cader Idris, or some picturesque group of wild homes, 
 nestling in one of the frowning cwms under his majestic heights. 
 
 Since the days of Captain Medwin, who gave to the world an 
 account of Tal-y-Llyn, some twenty-five years ago, in his very 
 clever and amusing work, " The Angler in Wales," this " angler's 
 paradise" has undergone a great change. From being a place 
 comparatively little known, it is now annually resorted to by 
 swarms of anglers, artists, and tourists ; so that the " air of tran- 
 quillity" it formerly enjoyed is now frequently interrupted by 
 joyous troops of visitors, whose boisterous merriment clashes on 
 the ear of such as used formerly to delight in the quiet seclusion 
 of this " charming retreat." 
 
 Tal-y-Llyn has been described by various topographers, but by 
 none so truthfully or graphically as by the late lamented author
 
 PEN-Y-BONT INN TY N-Y-CORNEL. 6 
 
 of " The Book of North Wales." As we have not, however, met 
 with any very recent or accurate accounts of sport obtained in 
 this romantic locality, we shall present the results of many years' 
 angling experience on the lake and neighbouring localities, and 
 such useful information to the sportsman as we may deem re- 
 quisite. 
 
 In Captain Medwin's time, A.D. 1832, as we have already 
 observed, Tal-y-Llyn, as an angling-station, was little known. 
 A few gentlemen several of them clergymen, and occasionally 
 an artist or two were the chief visitors. 1 The rude old-fashioned 
 inn at Pen-y-bont where the waters of the lake find an outlet, 
 and form one of the sources of the river Dysynni was the only 
 accommodation the place afforded. This consisted of a parlour, 
 somewhat dark and homely, but quiet and comfortable, and two 
 or three small sleeping apartments. Anglers in those days were 
 content to "rough it;" they were, in short, satisfied with humble 
 fare and lodging. Some years afterwards, in the year 1844, the 
 late Colonel Vaughan, of Hengwrt, the proprietor of the lake, 
 built a neat and more commodious inn on the shore, at the south- 
 west corner, near the village, and under the picturesque mountains 
 Mynydd Rhinog and Craig-Goch. This was called Ty'n-y-Cornel 
 inn. He also most liberally provided two boats for the use of 
 visitors, and the inn was exceedingly well conducted by the 
 landlord, the late Edward Corbet Owen. In former years we 
 used to take up our quarters at the "Blue Lion," Minffordd, 
 about one mile from the pool, where there was a comfortable 
 parlour and bedroom, but of course we could not command the 
 use of a boat. This " aunciente hostelrie " is mentioned by Warner 
 in his first " Walk through Wales," in ] 797. He also alludes to 
 an eccentric character named David Pughe, who acted as guide 
 to the "sublime mountain Cader Idris," and seems to have been 
 highly diverted with " his pompous manner and affected dignity." 
 The excellent accommodation and attention to " creature comforts " 
 at Ty'u-y-Cornel, added to the nourishing accounts of the sport 
 afforded there in the various guide-books and local prints, began 
 
 1 " It is but a few years since this lake was first known, and was, I believe, 
 
 first discovered by a descendant of the celebrated C ." Medioin's "Angler 
 
 in Wales."
 
 4 LLYN MWYNG1L FECUNDITY OF TROUT. 
 
 to draw the attention of professors of the "gentle art" from 
 Liverpool, Birmingham, Shrewsbury, and other more distant 
 places; so that since that time (1844) Ty'n-y-Cornel has become 
 a place of general resort by anglers of all shades ; and since the 
 introduction of the " iron road " to Shrewsbury and other places, 
 they have been annually on the increase. Edward Corbet Owen, 
 a most obliging, intelligent man, unfortunately for his widow and 
 family, died in 1847; in 1852, Mrs. Owen, from poverty and 
 inability to manage the house, was obliged to retire ; and the 
 present tenants, Mr. and Mrs. Evans, who had been in the 
 service of the late Sir Robert W. Vaughan, Bart. succeeded 
 her. The same year the inn was considerably enlarged and im- 
 proved: several more bed and sitting rooms were added, and 
 every comfort and convenience belonging to a good inn are now 
 to be found there. Of course, a large increase of visitors brought 
 with it a corresponding demand for boats, and there are now at 
 least five or six boats on the pool. Such is a brief history of the 
 rise and progress of the fishing-station of Tal-y-Llyn. 
 
 Llyn Mwyngil which signifies in English the "Lake of the 
 Charming Retreat " is nearly one mile and a quarter long, and in 
 no part much exceeds a quarter of a mile in breadth ; the average 
 being about two furlongs and a half. It is, in fact, an expansion 
 of the narrow vale ; the waters from the surrounding mountains 
 being confined and dammed up at the lower extremity, where 
 they run off in a rapid stream at Pen-y-bont, under an excellent 
 new bridge erected a few years ago. The tributaries to the lake 
 are several small rivulets, the chief of which flows from a wild 
 alpine Llyn high up under Cader Idris, called Llyn-y-Cae, the 
 " Pool of the Chasm," supposed by some, from its profound depth, 
 to be the crater of an extinct volcano. We shall have occasion 
 hereafter to more fully describe this lake. These brooks absolutely 
 swarm with small trout ; and in summer, when these waters are 
 clear and low, you may see legions of tiny fish, not larger than 
 minnows, disporting themselves on the surface of the water. 
 Indeed, the fecundity of the trout which spawn in these brooks is 
 really wonderful. Were it not so, the lake would speedily be 
 despoiled of its finny inhabitants by the numerous anglers who 
 daily frequent it. Many trout and eels also fall a prey to black
 
 CORMORANTS LARGE TROUT. 5 
 
 cormorants which haunt the lake. It is very amusing sometimes 
 to watch these great birds sitting on the top of a rail or post by 
 the edge of the pool, to dry their wings after their immersion. 
 They put one in mind of a "spread eagle," their wings being 
 extended to the full stretch. These birds cannot fly well until 
 their wings are dry, and being disabled from this cause and a full 
 meal, they not unfrequently fall victims to the gun. 1 The trout 
 in Tal-y-Llyn, though of rapid growth, are rarely caught of great 
 size ; few, if any, during the season being taken much larger than 
 one pound. The lake is said to contain two distinct species 
 the common brook trout, the average weight of which does not 
 exceed three to the pound, although on some occasions fish are 
 taken from half a pound to one pound and upwards; and the 
 great lake trout (salmo forox), which at rare intervals have been 
 caught in the net, of seven or ten pounds weight. We cannot, 
 however, aver to the truth of this ; indeed, we doubt whether the 
 true salmo ferox is to be found in any Welsh lake. They are 
 plentiful in some of the lakes in Ireland and Scotland. We also 
 find it mentioned in one of the guide-books, that a "trout weigh- 
 ing more than twelve pounds was found a few winters ago frozen 
 under the iee." A few instances are recorded of large trout 
 being taken with the fly, one of which occurred a few years since 
 to the present worthy incumbent of the parish, the Rev. J. Pring, 
 who informed us that he had caught at the head of the lake a fish 
 weighing about four pounds ; but it apparently was dying of old 
 age, as it made very little resistance when he captured it. After 
 a few hours it was found to be totally unfit for the table. We 
 have lately read of another instance of a trout weighing three 
 pounds and three-quarters being taken with the artificial fly. 
 These captures are, however, extremely rare. There is little 
 doubt that if Tal-y-Llyn was strictly preserved, instead of being 
 
 1 It is a singular fact, but you never observe more than two of these birds 
 on the lake at a time. Should one happen to be killed or disabled, another 
 will immediately supply its place. They come from Craig Aderyn, the " Bird 
 Rock," a striking scene on the banks of the Dysynni, a few miles from Tal-y- 
 Llyn, where they breed, and at certain seasons it is thronged with them. Their 
 appetites are insatiable. " Their craws are full of worms, that are continn<Jly 
 gnawing for food."
 
 6 TAL-Y-LLYN TROUT SHOEE FISHING. 
 
 -free to the public, trout of much larger size than those DOW 
 caught would more frequently be on the hook. The reason why 
 trout grow with such amazing rapidity in this lake arises probably 
 from the abundant feed they obtain on its mossy bottom. The 
 Llyn is in no part exceedingly deep ; its greatest depth is probably 
 eight or ten yards, but its general average is only from six to 
 twelve feet. No angler who knows the lake would dream of 
 fishing in the deeps, which by the knowing ones are aptly named 
 " the Sahara," or barren waters. Even on the most favourable 
 days, you can hardly ever obtain a rise on this part of the pool. 
 We have often been highly amused watching the "griffins" 
 anchor their boat on this sterile ground, with little probability of 
 even stirring a single fish. The quality of the trout in Tal-y-Llyn 
 is very indifferent; they are best when cooked immediately after 
 they are caught, and then, especially if you happen to catch 
 some that are pinky in the flesh, they are palatable enough to 
 hungry fishermen ; but they are vastly inferior to the trout found 
 in some of the lakes of Caernarvonshire and in the northern 
 portion of Merioneth. 1 
 
 Shore-fishing at Tal-y-Llyn is seldom pursued except in stormy 
 weather, when it is almost impossible to manage a boat. You 
 should provide yourself with a pair of Cording's wading-boots, 
 and be able to throw your flies well in the eye of the wind, other- 
 wise your labour will not be rewarded with much success. We 
 never knew but one or two fishermen who frequented Tal-y-Llyn, 
 who could boast of having obtained a good day's sport from shore. 
 The fact is, that many anglers fancy the further they can throw 
 their fly into a lake the better chance there is of a "rise." This 
 is frequently a great mistake ; some of the heaviest fish we have 
 ever caught in the Welsh lakes have been actually taken almost 
 on the "surf." You will almost always obtain the best "rise" 
 on a lee-shore ; this, of course, unless in a boat, involves the 
 necessity of throwing against the wind. The reason is obvious : 
 the wind drifts the fly to the shore, and instinct guides the finny 
 
 1 The trout caught in Tal-y-Llyn are so exceedingly delicate that they will 
 not bear transport to any distance, so that if you want to make presents to 
 your friends, you must have them potted down and seasoned well with spice, 
 In this state they are far more palatable than when cooked fresh.
 
 BOAT FISHING SPORT. 7 
 
 tribe to the most favourable position to seize upon their prey. 
 Fishing from a boat is comparatively nmch easier to learn than 
 shore-fishing, and in a pool like Tal-y-Llyn, where the trout are 
 generally "free," even a perfect "greenhorn" may sometimes 
 obtain very fair sport. There is less art in the manipulation of 
 your flies, and if the lake is rough, the wind will carry them from 
 the boat with very little labour to yourself. We have said that 
 the trout in Tal-y-Llyn are generally "free," but, like most of 
 their congeners, they are sometimes fickle and capricious, and 
 occasionally even the most accomplished anglers make what is 
 called a "blank day." 
 
 Fourteen or fifteen years ago, very capital sport was frequently 
 obtained here. One or two first-rate anglers, who knew the " ways 
 of the lake " well, would take from six to nine dozen trout each in 
 a day, including some of large size. Although not "gluttons in 
 the matter of trout," we have also enjoyed some very good sport. 
 We find, upon referring to our journal, that in June, 1850, our daily 
 average amounted to from forty to fifty fish, some of which weighed 
 from three-quarters to one pound each. At the present time, we 
 have been informed, that from the increased number of boats, and 
 the still greater increase of anglers, the sport has fallen off. The 
 fact is, that the lake is so incessantly " flogged " that a great 
 many fish are scared, "pricked," and lost off the hooks, so that 
 they have not only become more wary, but are also not so plen- 
 tiful. 1 
 
 It may be useful to anglers fresh to the lake if we here impart 
 some information as to the best portions of it for sport. The 
 largest quantity of fish are undoubtedly taken at the lower end, 
 but the size, with of course exceptions, is much smaller than 
 those caught at the upper extremity. There is good fishing to be 
 
 1 In 1855, during a stay of eight days at Tal-y-Llyn, we killed twenty-three 
 dozen, which makes an average take of thirty-four trout per diem ; but it is 
 proper to add, that on the two last days the weather became bright, calm, and hot, 
 so that few fish were taken, and which reduced considerably the average of the 
 preceding six days, on two of which, we severally killed forty-seven and fifty- 
 three. During this visit the heaviest fish taken did not exceed fourteen ounces. 
 The chief elements of success on this lake, are clouds, plenty of rain, and a 
 brisk breeze. Without these concomitants, little is to be done.
 
 8 DESCRIPTION OP LAKE LLYN-Y-CAE. 
 
 obtained on both sides of the lake from Ty'n-y-Cornel until you 
 arrive off a point on the south shore, which stretches into the 
 pool at the narrowest part, and where the water for some distance 
 is very deep. Nearer the head of the lake the water shoals off, 
 and from the mouth of a rivulet which here flows into it, the 
 source of which is in Llyn-y-Cae, larger trout abound than in any 
 other part. The shore on the side of Cader Idris is the best. 
 Indeed, there is good fishing near the edge on the north side to 
 the mouth of the stream above-mentioned, especially off some tall 
 rushes which fringe the margin. Near what is called "the 
 island" good sport is frequently obtained. This "island" is 
 seldom visible above water unless the lake is very low. It 
 appears to be a large earn, or tumulus of stones, and is believed 
 to cover the remains of some ancient warrior or chieftain. This 
 is mere conjecture, but it certainly bears a resemblance to such a 
 monument. 
 
 The principal flies in use depend on the season of the year. In 
 the months of May and June the best months the March 
 brown, red spinner, partridge and green, alder, pea-hen, cinna- 
 mon, Shaw's governor, fernshaw, and the cow-dung, are all 
 excellent flies. There are many others occasionally used, accord- 
 ing to the whim or fancy of the fishermen, all of whom profess to 
 have a " wrinkle " or two ; but, from long experience, we have 
 had better sport with these flies at this season than with any 
 others. 
 
 This solitudinous sheet of water, which lies in a deep hollow 
 under the frowning precipices of Cader Idris, is of considerable 
 elevation, and there are few lakes in Wales more difficult of 
 access. It is called Llyn-y-Cae, which signifies the "Pool of 
 the Chasm," or, more literally, the "Pool of the Enclosure." 
 It is, beyond comparison, superior in sublimity and grandeur 
 to any other mountain scene in Wales, with perhaps the excep- 
 tion of Llyn Idwal. The lake is bounded on the west side by 
 the lofty rock inaccessible from the pool called Craig-y-Cae, 
 one of the highest peaks of Cader Idris, the abode of the kite 
 and the raven; the hoarse, ominous croaking of the latter bird,
 
 LLYN-Y-CAE ITS DEPTH SPORT. 
 
 hovering around or perched upon the rocks far overhead, being 
 sometimes the only break to the solemn silence which pervades 
 this desolate spot. The north and south sides are also encircled 
 by lofty precipices which, in some parts, run down sheer into the 
 water, but you can generally approach the shores, although your 
 footing is precarious, from the loose rough debris with which they 
 are lined; with the exception, however, of the east shore, the 
 descent to the lake is rough and difficult from all points. The 
 easiest access is from the east, where the shore is low and open. 
 A limpid, sparkling brook, abounding in small trout, issues from 
 the Llyn, at the north-east corner, and, after a succession of pic- 
 turesque falls, beautifully fringed and adorned with trees and 
 coppice-wood, empties itself into Tal-y-Llyn, about three-quarters 
 of a mile below Minffordd. Llyn-y-Cae, from its immense depth, 
 which is said to be at least sixty fathoms (360 feet), has been 
 supposed by some authors to have once'formed the crater of an 
 extinct volcano: there is, however, little, if any, evidence in 
 support of this theory^ as no remains or appearance of remote 
 volcanic action at present exist. The lake is of small extent, 
 not exceeding sixty or seventy acres; it is about three furlongs 
 in length, and is about half that distance broad in the widest part 
 from north to south. Two persons fishing on opposite shores can 
 easily hold a conversation when the lake is calm. The pool 
 swarms with trout; occasionally they "rise" freely, but are 
 oftentimes exceedingly sullen, so much so, that some anglers 
 amongst others, Captain Medwin have gone away from the lake 
 with the impression that it contained no fish. Medwin says, " As 
 I expected, I never got a rise, nor saw a fish move, though they 
 tell me it abounds with trout." Fine bright hot weather we have 
 generally found the most favourable time to visit Llyn-y-Cae, but 
 even then you are often disappointed, and scarcely obtain a rise, 
 or even see a fish stir. We have enjoyed upon several occasions 
 some excellent diversion here. On referring to our journal of 
 sport in 1847, we find that during a sojourn of a few days at 
 Minffordd, we made two or three excursions to the lake with 
 the following results : " June 3d. A lovely summer's morning, 
 cloudless and oppressively hot. After an early breakfast, breasted 
 the steeps of Cader Idris, en route to Llyn-y-Cae. A very slack
 
 10 LLYN-Y-CAE EXTRACTS PROM JOURNAL. 
 
 inconstant breeze at the pool all day : this is always the case at 
 this place in hot bright weather. Fished round the precipitous 
 rocks on the south side some of which shelve down into deep 
 water as far as the ' island,' a small rock nearly surrounded by 
 water, lying under Craig-y-Cae. From this rock the largest trout 
 are generally caught. Notwithstanding the slack breeze, the 
 trout for some time rose remarkably well, and at three P.M. 1 had 
 nearly filled my basket, having killed fifty-three ; average weight, 
 nearly a quarter of a pound each : a few were six. ounces. June 
 4th. Weather as before ; hot and cloudless, with a gentle breeze. 
 Arrived at Lyn-y-Cae at nine A.M. A fair rise from about one to 
 four o'clock, with the following results : Thirty-four trout of the 
 same size as on the previous day. If .we had had sufficient breeze 
 in the forenoon, we should at least have equalled the previous 
 day's take." One of the best day's sport we ever obtained at this 
 pool was in July, 1849, on a very hot day, when there was 
 scarcely the slightest ripple on the water. We chiefly took our 
 fish from one spot, near the small rock or island under Craig-y- 
 Cae, The "rise," while it lasted, was really astonishing, and, 
 what was still more surprising, it occurred at noon, when the heat 
 of the sun, from the confined nature of the place, was almost 
 insupportable, as there was not at the time the slightest breath of 
 wind. We extract the following account from our journal : 
 " July llth, 1849. T/n-y-Cornel, Wednesday. Started for Llyn- 
 y-Cae about nine o'clock A.M., vid the rocks above Minffordd. 
 Dry, hot, and cloudless. A very slack breeze at the Llyn ; not- 
 withstanding, there was a most extraordinary 'rise' at the 
 artificial fly. I caught forty-four in little more than an hour, 
 which nearly filled my basket, and weighed about nine pounds. 
 Returned to Tal-y-Llyn at half-past five." On this occasion we 
 several times caught two fish at a cast, besides losing many others, 
 the shores of the lake being steep and rocky. The trout here 
 seldom exceed a quarter of a pound, but occasionally much 
 larger fish are taken. During the same year (1849), about a 
 week previously, a friend of ours staying at Ty'n-y-Cornel, caught 
 thirty-eight in the course of a few hours, one of which weighed 
 ten ounces. The weather at the time was rather unsettled and 
 squally. As a general rule, little, if any, sport can be obtained
 
 LLYN-Y-CAE FISHING FLIES. 1 1 
 
 on a lake when calm, but there are exceptions, as on the occasion 
 we have referred to. The trout in Llyn-y-Cae are much superior 
 in quality to their congeners in Tal-y-Llyn ; they are firmer in 
 flesh, and better tasted, but they are not so handsome in appear- 
 ance. It is a singular fact, that trout in lakes high up in the 
 mountains will seldom " rise " after the sun is off the water ; if 
 the day has been ever so good, the " rise " is over almost as soon 
 as the sun is hid by the mountain. This we have repeatedly 
 found to be the case at Llyn-y-Cae and elsewhere. It is seldom 
 that a good breeze gets to the lake in hot summer weather, unless 
 after a thunderstorm, when the wind frequently blows in violent 
 squalls from all parts of the compass. Medwin says, "it is so 
 abrite on all sides from the wind," that even when it blows hard, 
 scarcely a ripple affects its surface. This, however, is a great 
 mistake, an easterly breeze always ruffles the lake amply sufficient 
 for the purpose of the angler. On some parts of the lake the 
 fishing is both difficult and dangerous, in consequence of high 
 precipitous rocks, which afford a precarious footing, overhanging 
 the water : a slight stumble would precipitate the unfortunate 
 angler headlong into the pool. The best sport is frequently 
 obtained from these rocks, both in size and number, and it is 
 curious to observe the trout strike at your flies with lightning 
 rapidity from a great depth, which is the case on a sunny day, the 
 water, though green in colour, being in reality as clear as crystal. 
 The flies in use on this pool are similar to those at the sister lake. 
 We have found the alder and the fernshaw, in June and July, 
 sometimes very successful. 
 
 There are two ways of reaching this mountain solitude. The 
 nearest from Ty'n-y-Cornel is up one of the arms of Cader Idris, 
 that rises above Cwm Ammarch j the distance is about two miles. 
 Though a tolerably smooth road, the ascent is steep and toilsome, 
 and it will take at least one hour and a half to reach the lake, 
 unless you are more nimble of foot than the generality of pedes- 
 trians. There is another and a better way, we think, by following 
 the course of the brook at Minffordd. From the back of the 
 parsonage-house there is a very zigzag, precipitous path, which, 
 although it gives you " a breather," the " collar work " is not 
 nearly so great as the road up Cwm Ammarch. If you are staying
 
 12 SCENERY OP LLYN-Y-CAE STORM CADER IDRIS. 
 
 at Minffordd inn, this is by far the best and nearest way, as the 
 distance is less than one mile and a half, which can generally be 
 accomplished in an hour. From experience, we infinitely prefer 
 the latter route, even if staying at T/n-y -Cornel, although the 
 distance is about one mile and three-quarters farther. 
 
 The scenery at Llyn-y-Cae is very imposing ; in stormy weather, 
 when huge masses of dark clouds overhang the mountain and lake, 
 the solemn gloom which invests this fine scene leaves an impres- 
 sion not easily effaced. Richard Wilson, R.A., the celebrated 
 painter, made one of his finest and most effective pictures from 
 Llyn-y-Cae. There is a fine engraving in line now scarce from 
 the painting, by Earlom or Sharpe. 
 
 During the fearful storm which ranged around Cader Idris and 
 its neighbourhood on the night of July 3d, 1849, and which fell 
 with extreme severity on Llyn-y-Cae, immense quantities of large 
 stones and debris were washed down from the sides of the moun- 
 tains surrounding the pool, and the water, shortly before clear 
 and pellucid, became much discoloured, and remained so for several 
 days. This was an event of very rare occurrence, and shows 
 what a deluge of water was poured into the lake. The walking 
 along shore, previously difficult, became still more so, from the 
 loose stones which strewed the narrow strand. This lake is seldom 
 frequented, owing to the difficulty of the ascent to it. A few 
 parties from Dolgelley, during the summer, and an occasional 
 angler from Ty'n-y-Cornel, are its chief visitants. 
 
 Cafor fbris. 
 
 " How bold its outline ! It looks like a seat fit for a giant, the monarch of 
 mountains, or a Cyhele with her rocky diadem ! " MEDWIN. 
 
 "Dreaminess, grandeur, and sterility intermingled," is an ap- 
 propriate description of this celebrated mountain, long erroneously 
 supposed to be inferior in altitude to Snowdon only of all the 
 Cambrian Alps. " How grand those mountains that shut in this 
 gem of a lake 1 on all sides ! Look how it glows in the sunbeams 
 like a sapphire ! How steep those rocks that seem to form ram- 
 parts an inaccessible barrier to this little world ! Those specks 
 
 * Tal-y-Llyn.
 
 CADER IDRI8 ITS HEIGHT APPEARANCE. 13 
 
 are the wild flocks without a fold; see how they hang on the 
 precipice, or cross in files the broken crags to pick up a scanty 
 vegetation that here and there relieves their barrenness ! " Such 
 is a truthful and eloquent description of Cader Idris by Captain 
 Medwin, although he falls into the vulgar error of describing the 
 mountain as " the second highest in Wales." The comparatively 
 recent trigonometrical survey by officers of the Board of Ordnance, 
 and the accurate admeasurement of the altitudes from the sea- 
 level of the loftiest mountains in the Principality, have established 
 the fact that seven other mountains take precedence of Cader 
 Idris, amongst which the least lofty is Aran Mowddwy, 2,955 feet, 
 which rears its head into the clouds above the retired hamlet of 
 Llan-y-Mowddwy, on the road from Bala to Mallwyd. The 
 height of Cader Idris is 2,914 feet. But though inferior in 
 altitude to its rivals in Caernarvonshire, few of the Cambrian hills 
 display such picturesque effects, such colour, such "play of light 
 and shade," as the " giant Idris." In lowering, stormy weather, 
 the dark purple colouring of the stupendous precipices on the 
 south and south-western sides present to the eye a sublime aspect, 
 and few scenes in Britain afford a grander combination of lights 
 and shadows "elegance with grandeur" than that seen from 
 the road near Minffordd, where the beautiful lake of Tal-y-Llyn 
 first appears to view on the left, with the little primitive hamlet 
 of Dol Pfanog reposing near its borders in the vale below. 
 
 The ascent of this mountain, and a description of the scenic 
 beauties from its summit, have been described by numerous 
 authors, all of whom have more or less extolled the magnificent 
 prospects unfolded to view, when seen in favourable weather. 
 Warner appears to have ascended from Minffordd, taking the 
 usual route to Llyn-y-Cae through Cwm-y-Cae ; after skirting the 
 south shore of the lake, he ascended the western arm or peak, 
 Craig-y-Cae, and from thence to the summit, Pen-y-Gader, " the 
 head of the chair." He descended to Dolgelley from the northern 
 side, crossing what he calls a " flood of stones," but which has 
 elsewhere been more acr irately termed " an immense wreck of 
 stones :" this is the roui'; generally taken by the guides in the 
 ascent from Dolgelley. Varner's account is so graphic that we 
 are tempted to give a fe\ extracts. After ascending the tertiary
 
 14 WARNER'S ASCENT OF CADEB IDRIS. 
 
 range by the zigzag path from Minffordd we have already de- 
 scribed, he says, "Another half hour brought us into a second 
 valley, called Cwm-y-Cay, a deep hollow in the heart of the 
 mountain, shut in to the north, west, and south, by huge rocks of 
 porphyry, and black perpendicular precipices of five and six hundred 
 feet in height. The centre of this coomb is filled by a clear and 
 extensive lake, of unfathomable depth, which, together with other 
 surrounding circumstances, give the whole hollow the appearance 
 of an ancient volcanic crater. This piece of water is called Llyn- 
 Cay, and, according to the account of our guide, covers fifty acres, 
 and is filled with trout of large size and exquisite flavour." If 
 such was the case, the trout must have materially fallen off in 
 size and quality within the past sixty years ; but a tourist who 
 places implicit faith in the marvellous tales invented by guides, 
 even now-a-days, must be a disciple of " Mr. Verdant Green." The 
 appearances of volcanic agency, alluded to in the foregoing extract, 
 have long since been exploded by the researches of modern science. 
 " We at length approached a dark, beetling rock, of shaggy aspect 
 and tremendous height, which stands entirely detached from the 
 neighbouring cliff. Its real name is Craig-Cay ; but our guide, 
 with a pardonable vanity, had christened it after himself, and 
 assured us it was called Pughe's Pinnacle. . . . Arriving at the 
 extremity of the pool, we began to ascend the western summit of 
 Cader Idris, a task not only of labour, but of some peril also, it 
 being a different route from that which travellers usually pursue : 
 six hundred feet of steep rock, covered, indeed, with short grass, 
 but so slippery as to render the footing very insecure. As we 
 approached the top, the ascent became more abrupt, whilst the 
 scene below us, of craggy rocks, perpendicular precipices, and an 
 unfathomable lake, did not operate to lessen the alarm that a 
 person unaccustomed to so dangerous a situation naturally feels. 
 Our companion, the mountaineer, skipped on the meanwhile with 
 the agility of a goat, and whilst we were dumb with terror, des- 
 canted on the beauties of Cader Idris and the excellence of its 
 mutton. ... At length, after excessive labour and repeated 
 efforts, we gained the top of this nob & mountain, and were at 
 once amply recompensed for all the iatigue and alarm of the 
 ascent. The afternoon was gloriously ;Vue, and the atmosphere
 
 VIEW FROM SUMMIT DANGERS OF ASCENT. 15 
 
 perfectly clear, so that the vast unbounded prospect lay beneath 
 us, unobscured by cloud, vapour, or any other interruption to the 
 astonished and delighted eye, which threw its glance over a varied 
 scene, including a circumference of at least 500 miles. To the 
 north-west is seen Ireland, like a distant mist upon the ocean; and a 
 little to the right, Snowdon, and the other mountains of Caernar- 
 vonshire. Further on, in the same direction, the Isle of Man, 
 the neighbourhood of Chester, Wrexham, and Salop; the sharp 
 head of the Wrekin, and the undulating summit of the Clee hills. 
 To the south we have the country round Clifton, Pembrokeshire, 
 St. David's, and Swansea ; and to the westward a vast prospect 
 of the British Channel unfolds itself, which is bounded only by 
 the horizon. . . . We now proceeded in an eastern direction, to 
 the Pen-y-Gader, the highest peak of the mountain, passing on 
 our left the saddle of the giant Idris (from whom the mountain 
 receives its name), an immense cwm, its bottom filled with a 
 beautiful lake called Llyn-Cair (Llyn-y-Gader, the ' Lake of the 
 Chair'), and its sides formed by perpendicular cliffs, at least 1,000 
 feet in height. Here we found a stone much resembling that 
 volcanic substance called pumice-stone. . . . The air, notwith- 
 standing the rays of an unclouded sun beamed upon us, was 
 piercingly cold. . . . From the rude heap of adventitious stones 
 which form what is called the bed of the giant, for several hundred 
 yards the mountain wears a singular appearance. Its surface is 
 covered with a stream of rocky fragments of different magnitude, 
 and lying in all directions, their shape for the most part columnar 
 and quadrangular, and many being from three to seven feet in 
 length. All of them bear marks of attrition, and probably were 
 thrown into their present rude disjointed situation by that great 
 convulsion of nature, when 'the fountains of the great deep were 
 broken up, and the windows of heaven were opened.' " 
 
 Warner's account upon the whole is accurate : the great 
 features of Nature, how different from the mutability of the 
 works of man, remaining the same after the lapse of centuries ! 
 But we must altogether protest against Warner's description of 
 the "terrors" and "dangers" of the ascent. The route he pur- 
 sued is certainly more arduous and difficult than the path followed 
 by the Dolgelley guides ; but it is in no part dangerous, and it
 
 16 ASCENT FROM DOLGELLEY PEN-Y-CADER. 
 
 has this advantage over the Dolgelley route, it is infinitely more 
 grand and imposing. We have in the course of our wanderings 
 in Wales, now extending to nearly a quarter of a century, ascended 
 Cader Idris four times, on each occasion, except the first, being 
 highly favoured by the weather. Our first visit was on the 20th 
 of June, 1840. We ascended by the usual route, accompanied 
 by two friends, under the guidance of Richard Pugh, possibly a 
 descendant of the quaint guide that accompanied Warner. The 
 day was fine, but the higher portion of the mountain was enve- 
 loped in clouds, which, however, occasionally sailed off from the 
 loftiest peaks, leaving them clear ; the vapours which shrouded 
 the mountain came from the Irish Sea, the wind being due west. 
 We shall not attempt to give a minute description of our excur- 
 sion. We proceeded in the first part of the route along the old 
 road to Towin, as far as Llyn Gwernan, a small lake about two 
 miles on the road ; here we turned to the left, and at once got 
 upon the tertiary ranges of the mountain, threading your way over 
 which is by far the most disagreeable part of the route. As we 
 approached the region of the clouds, which were drifting along at 
 a brisk rate, impelled by a strong breeze, we passed by a Welsh 
 cottage, very primitive and ancient, supposed to be at least four 
 hundred years old, with scarcely any shelter to protect it from the 
 storms of winter. Here, formerly, resided a dwarf of great strength, 
 named Cow Idris. Upon entering the cottage, we were introduced 
 to an aged crone, reputed to be rich, and were struck with the 
 rude character of the furniture, seemingly very old, and the 
 sombre appearance of the apartment, not wanting, however, a 
 certain degree of comfort. We then proceeded up a gradual ascent 
 until we at last reached the plateau on the west shoulder of this 
 hill monarch. Warner calls this the "bed of Idris :" all we can 
 say is, that if the giant made this his couch, we fancy his bones 
 must have ached after a night's rest. 
 
 With the exception of the summit of Glyder Bach, a description 
 of which we shall give in a future chapter, we never passed over 
 such a rough, chaotic, confused "wreck of stones" as that pre- 
 sented at this point of the ascent, and we were really glad at last 
 to find ourselves in the narrow well-worn path which leads to 
 Pen-y-Gader. Here we became enveloped in vapour, which
 
 THE FOX'S PATH ANECDOTE FEARFUL ACCIDENT. 17 
 
 continued to boil and curl around us during the whole of the time 
 we remained on the summit, with the exception of a few brief 
 intervals. We visited Pugh's hut, what he called his " hotel," 
 a rudely built pile of large stones, but it was so damp and dark 
 in the interior, that we were glad to exchange our quarters for 
 the lee of the huge Carnedd, or mound of stones erected by the 
 Ordnance surveyors. Here, although damp and rather cold from 
 the high wind, we were comparatively comfortable, and we pro- 
 ceeded to discuss, with infinite zest, the contents of a basket of 
 viands provided for us by our worthy hostess, Dame Walker, of 
 the "Golden Lion." Whilst discussing our repast, we were 
 entertained with sundry anecdotes by our loquacious guide. 
 Amongst others he related an accident he had witnessed a few 
 years previously, to one of a party of Oxonians, on the abrupt 
 descent usually called Llwybyr Cadnaw, the " fox's path." These 
 gentlemen, after arriving at the summit, had indulged rather too 
 freely in stimulants, and commenced "larking," and performing 
 sundry hairbrained tricks. In descending the " fox's path," one of 
 them, more excited and daring than the others, started off at full 
 speed down the precipitous path, to the horror of his now sobered 
 companions. He of course, from the impetus acquired by his 
 frantic career, lost all control of his movements, and fell headlong 
 on the slippery way, which consists of loose rolling shingle : he 
 was picked up insensible, severely cut and bruised about the 
 head, and with one of his arms broken : for some time his life was 
 in great danger. At the foot of this path, a short distance to the 
 left, lies a small deep pool, called Llyn-y-Gader, the " lake of the 
 chair," and in its immediate vicinity, Llyn-y-Gafr, a shallow tarn 
 full of trout, and where sometimes there is good sport. We 
 returned to Dolgelley by this route, following for some distance 
 the rapid brook which flows from Llyn Aren, a very small pool 
 under the precipices of Mynydd Moel. We have before observed 
 that our view from Pen-y-Gader was obscured by clouds, but occa- 
 sionally we had some marvellous peeps magical glimpses of 
 the surrounding country, which, although almost momentary, were 
 grand beyond description. We were especially delighted with a 
 view of Bala lake, Llyn Tegid, which appeared the colour of a sap- 
 phire, the sun shining on its waters giving it this gorgeous effect. 
 
 c
 
 18 CADER IDRIS SECOND ASCENT LLYN-Y-CAE. 
 
 Our second ascent occurred on the 10th of July, 1843. We 
 left Dolgelley about 9 o'clock A.M. accompanied by a friend. The 
 day was magnificent ; large masses of clouds hung over the peaks 
 of Cader Idris, but at a considerable elevation ; the effects of light 
 and shade and the occasional bursts of sunshine lightened up the 
 landscape with marvellous tints. On this occasion we dispensed 
 with the services of a guide, but we were for some time entangled 
 amongst the copsewood which clothes the tertiary ranges, and it 
 was not until after several hours of rather severe toil, that we 
 finally accomplished the ascent. We were, however, amply re- 
 paid, and enjoyed the magnificent prospect spread around us on 
 all sides with feelings of delight. After spending more than an 
 hour on the highest summit, and taking a peep at the dark blue 
 waters of Llyn-y-Cae, we commenced our descent over the " awful 
 steeps" immediately hanging over the lake. We found our down- 
 ward progress infinitely more difiicult and fatiguing than the 
 previous portion of our labours ; but at last, after crawling and 
 scrambling down one of the numerous deep rifts or gullies which 
 serve as water-courses in wet weather, we at length stood on the 
 northern shore of Llyn-y-Cae. We were en route for Aberystwith, 
 distant at least thirty miles from this spot. Being on an angling 
 excursion, we for the first time essayed our skill to move 
 some of the "large trout," spoken of by Pugh, Warner's 
 guide. Although disappointed in this respect, we succeeded 
 in killing about a dozen trout of the size previously men- 
 tioned. After remaining at the lake for about an hour, we 
 proceeded to the "Blue Lion," Minffordd, there refreshed, and 
 proceeded to Machynlleth, where we arrived about 8 o'clock P.M. 
 We afterwards travelled to Aberystwith, and arrived there, after 
 a most exciting day, about half-past 12 at night, having walked a 
 distance of not less than thirty-seven miles. Fatigued and thirsty 
 from the length of the walk and the heat of the day, we were 
 glad to betake ourselves to repose in one of the most comfortable 
 inns in Wales, the " Gogerddan Arms." 
 
 On two subsequent occasions we have ascended Cader Idris 
 from Tal-y-Llyn, proceeding up a wild dingle called Cwm Am- 
 march, on the north shore of the lake, and then turning to a path 
 on the right up the steep sides of the mountain. This leads you
 
 ROUTES TO TAL-Y-LLYN EXPENSES OP TRAVEL. 19 
 
 to the precipices of Craig-y-Cae, and from thence the ascent to 
 the summit is comparatively easy. There is from this point a fine 
 bird's-eye view of Llyn-y-Cae, which lies in the deep hollow at 
 your feet. This route is very arduous and fatiguing, but scarcely 
 so difficult as the route from Minffordd.. 
 
 Railway extension will in a few years render the fishing station 
 of Tal-y-Llyn of easy access. The lake which lies under the 
 southern side of Cader Idris, is in Merionethshire, and is seen to 
 great advantage on the coach road from Machynlleth to Dolgelley. 
 It is distant from these towns, either way, about nine miles ; but, 
 as the inn at Ty'n-y-Cornel is situate at the lower end of the lake, 
 the posting distance is ten miles. There are two or three ways 
 of reaching Tal-y-Llyn open to the sportsman ; decidedly the most 
 interesting is by rail from Shrewsbury to the Llangollen-Road 
 Station, and from thence by coach to Llangollen, passing through 
 its romantic and beautiful vale to Corwen, Bala, and its famous 
 lake, Llyn Tegid, to Dolgelley ; at the latter town you must take 
 a car, the expense of which, including driver and turnpikes, is 
 about 13s. &d. The distance from Llangollen-Road Station to 
 Dolgelley is forty-four miles. Another route which on a fine 
 summer morning is a very pleasant one is from Shrewsbury by 
 mail to Machynlleth. This road runs through Welshpool, New- 
 town, and Llanbrynmair, and is distant from Shrewsbury about 
 sixty-two miles. The Aberystwith mail leaves the "Lion" hotel, 
 Shrewsbury, at a quarter to four o'clock in the morning ; and, 
 though it is rather early to turn out, you are amply rewarded, if 
 the weather is fine, by the magnificent views you obtain of the 
 Breidden hills, at the base of which the road runs on approaching 
 Welshpool, and by the verdant and richly timbered country, watered 
 by the Severn and Vyrnwy, through which you pass. The mail 
 reaches Machynlleth about twelve o'clock. Here you leave the 
 coach, and, if you are inclined, you can proceed to Tal-y-Llyn at 
 once ; the distance and expense about the same as from Dolgelley. 
 The disadvantage of proceeding from Shrewsbury by this route 
 is, that you have not only more coaching by nearly twenty miles, 
 but the inconvenience of a broken night's rest at Shrewsbury. 
 The fare outside the mail is fourteen shillings. 
 
 o 2:
 
 20 MACHYNLLETH BEAUTY OP SCENERY THE DYFI. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 MACHYNLLETH LLANBRYNMAIK CEMMAES LLYN BTJGEILYN 
 PISTYLL-Y-LLYN LLYN PENRHAIADE, TOWYN RIVER DYSYNNI 
 MALLWYD. 
 
 " The wild brook babbling down the mountain-side, 
 The lowing herd, the sheepfold's simple bell, 
 The pipe of early shepherd dim descried 
 In the lone valley ; echoing far and wide 
 The hollow murmur of the ocean-tide." BEATTII. 
 
 MACHYNLLETH, " supposed to have been the Maglona of the 
 Romans," derives its Welsh appellation from being " a town or 
 place at the upper end of the flat or swamp." It is pleasingly 
 situate near the banks of the Dyfi, at its confluence with the rapid 
 mountain torrent, the Dulas. Surrounded by lofty mountains, 
 and sheltered beneath some broken rocks of picturesque outline 
 and varied tints, Machynlleth and its environs form a charming 
 summer retreat for the sportsman and the lover of Nature. 
 
 THE DYFI, in its course from Mallwyd to its confluence with the 
 sea, passes through one of the most pastoral valleys in Wales. 
 In some parts of its course the banks are adorned with wood, but 
 it is frequently open for some distance, the verdant meadows on 
 either side the stream, which is generally of crystalline purity, 
 being pastured with groups of cattle, some of the lords of which 
 are at times not a little troublesome to the angler. The Dyfi 
 has long been celebrated for the excellence of its salmon and 
 sewin fishing : as regards trout, we quite agree with the remarks 
 of a correspondent in a sporting newspaper, who advises his 
 readers to avoid "all inducement to loiter on the banks of the 
 Dyfi, which, as a trout stream, is a perfect ' sham.' " The river 
 for some years past has been strictly preserved from Mallwyd to 
 below Machynlleth, but tickets, to fish either by the day or year,
 
 LAKES VALE OP THE DYPI LLANBRYNMAIR. 21 
 
 can be procured at a moderate rate during the season, which 
 ranges from April to October. Capital salmon and sewin fishing 
 can occasionally be obtained, especially after "a fresh;" but in 
 dry weather the river is so clear and low that the angler will find 
 little or no sport. Nevertheless, Machynlleth has always with us 
 been a favourite locality. If the river fails, you are in the neigh- 
 bourhood of several excellent lakes, amongst which are Tal-y-Llyn, 
 already described, Llyn Penrhaiadr and Llyn Bugeilyn. The 
 scenery in the neighbourhood of Machynlleth is exceedingly beau- 
 tiful, and, on a fine summer's day, the peak of Cader Idris, and the 
 Aran group of mountains stretching away to the north-east, loom 
 out grandly beyond the estuary of the Dyfi, and form a most 
 impressive background to the magnificent landscape which greets 
 the eye of the traveller as he approaches Machynlleth by the road 
 from Aberystwith. The vale of Dyfi, from Mallwyd to Machyn- 
 lleth, distant by road twelve miles, has also been much and 
 deservedly admired ; and though its clear and silvery stream does 
 not afford much attraction to the angler, yet a ramble on its banks 
 is very enjoyable. Machynlleth possesses one great advantage, 
 and that is a most excellent hotel, the " Wynnstay Arms." Here 
 the sportsman will find first-rate accommodation on most reason- 
 able terms, and it is only doing an act of justice to the worthy 
 landlord, Mr. Charles J. Lloyd, to add that, for comfort, civility, 
 and attention, we know of no house in the Principality to surpass 
 it. Mr. Lloyd grants tickets of permission, gratis, to fish in 
 Llyns Bugeilyn and Penrhaiadr, and also provides tickets for fishing 
 the Dyfi. Mr. Lloyd requires no eulogy from us; suffice it to say 
 that his hotel during the season is crowded with visitors from all 
 parts of the country, and in August and September there is great 
 difficulty in securing accommodation. 
 
 LLANBRYNMAIB,, a village about eleven miles from Machynlleth, 
 is sometimes frequented by anglers. There is a very comfortable 
 inn there the beau ideal of a fisherman's retreat kept by Mr. 
 Robert Lloyd, a brother of C. J. Lloyd, of Machynlleth. This 
 place is worth a visit, if only for the beautiful wooded valley 
 watered by the Twymin, through which the road winds down a 
 sharp declivity from Newtown to Machynlleth. The Twymin is 
 a rapid mountain stream containing both trout and sewin ; when
 
 22 CEMMAES CRAIG LLYN DYFI GROWTH OF FISH. 
 
 the water is in good order, fair sport may be obtained, but much 
 of course depends on the weather : angling in this river, we believe, 
 is free. The Twymin flows near the inn in its course to the Dyfi, 
 which it joins about five miles from Machynlleth. 
 
 CEMMAES, a small roadside village, nearly midway between 
 Machynlleth and Mallwyd, is also a favourite resort of anglers. It 
 contains a very comfortable inn, and is prettily situated near the 
 banks of the Dyfi, which here certainly looks a tempting stream, 
 as it gently meanders along the valley from its wild mountain- 
 home. It is a somewhat singular fact, that Craig-Llyn-Dyfi, a 
 small pool under the steeps of Aran Mowddwy, from whence the 
 Dyfi rises in a solitary cwm, is destitute of fish, and is said to 
 contain only lizards, and probably horse-leeches ! There are few 
 mountain lakes that are without trout ; even in lakes on the sum- 
 mits of very high mountains trout are generally found. Where 
 there are no fish, it possibly arises from the waters containing 
 some mineral poison. We have heard it argued by anglers that 
 the reason why the Dyfi is deficient of good trout arises from the 
 poverty of its waters. It flows over a gravelly bed, and trout 
 rarely grow to any size when such is the case. The largest trout 
 are almost invariably found in rivers which flow through an 
 alluvial soil ; the water becomes impregnated with rich deposits, 
 which cause the fish to grow and fatten. It is certain that great 
 difference as to size and quality occurs in many streams. Trout 
 are plentiful in Devonshire, but they are generally small ; whilst 
 in the Hampshire rivers many very large fish are found. 
 
 f Ip 
 
 the " Shepherd's Pool," is a dreary, sequestered piece of water, 
 surrounded by turbaries, and might with propriety be called 
 "the Lake of the Dismal Swamp." It is situated on elevated 
 ground, amongst the bleak, barren hills to the north of Plin- 
 limmon, about ten miles from Machynlleth, on the old moun- 
 tain road to Llanidloes, " which is one of the wildest in the king- 
 dom." This road, for a considerable portion of the way, is one 
 continued ascent ; and as you approach the lake by a rough road 
 which turns off to the right, you find yourself in the midst of the 
 wilds a portion, in fact, of the " Great Desert of Wales" scarce
 
 LLYN BUGEILYN WILD SCENERY HORSE LEECHES. 23 
 
 a habitation or a human being to be met with for miles. On a 
 fine summer's day, with the "blue above" partially obscured by 
 clouds for mountain scenery is comparatively tame under a 
 cloudless sky a magnificent landscape presents itself from this 
 elevated spot to the north and east. The lofty summits of Cader 
 Idris, the Aran range, the Arenigs, and a convulsed region of 
 mountains, of various colouring, in every direction arrest the 
 attention ; and in the more immediate foreground, the beautiful 
 estuary of the Dyfi, with "the dark blue sea" in the distance, 
 sparkling in the beams of the morning sun, present a superb 
 prospect which cannot fail to charm the senses of the admirers of 
 nature. We know of few mountain scenes in Wales superior to 
 that presented to the eye from the mountain road to Bugeilyn ; 
 nor are there many wilder or more desolate spots in the Princi- 
 pality than this locality. When the lightnings flash, and the 
 thunder rolls in long continuous deafening peals, amongst the 
 savage heights around, the dark waters of the lake rendered still 
 more black and gloomy from the masses of heavy clouds and 
 vapour which at such times hang over them, you might almost 
 picture yourself standing by the shores of Avernus ; or, like Sadac, 
 by the " waters of oblivion." Warner, in his walk across the 
 mountains from the Devil's Bridge to Machynlleth, thus describes 
 the scenery. ( "After passing at the foot of 'huge Plinlimmon,' 
 and climbing a steep hill, we were suddenly surprised with a 
 magnificent mountain scene. The jagged head of Cader Idris and 
 the solitary summit of Snowdon make conspicuous figures in the 
 picture, which is rendered complete in its kind by the ' thousand 
 subject hills' of all shapes and forms that rise around them." 
 
 Fifty years ago there were no trout in Bugeilyn, but "mil- 
 lions of horse-leeches." The pool was originally stocked with 
 trout from the Rheidol by two gentlemen who happened to be 
 grouse-shooting in proximity to the pool. For some years a war 
 of extermination was carried on between the leeches and the 
 trout ; the latter, however, proved victorious, and no leeches are 
 now to be found. The lake is preserved by Mr. Jones, of Garth- 
 mill Hall, Montgomeryshire, but leave to fish can be obtained 
 from Mr. C. J. Lloyd. "Bugeilyn pool," says 'Captain Medwin, 
 " is of an irregular form, shut in on all sides by drear hills and
 
 24 EXTRAORDINARY SPORT BUGEILTN TROUT. 
 
 crags, and may be a mile and a half or two miles in circumference. 
 The bottom is covered in many parts with weeds, and it is very 
 shallow : the water of a pitchy blackness, from the peaty bed in 
 which it lies, and islanded here and there by masses of rock." In 
 June, 1832, Captain Medwin states, in his "Angler in Wales," that 
 he one night obtained extraordinary sport from a small islet near 
 the shore, taking a great many fish of two and three pounds weight 
 with a white moth. The account is so marvellous that we are 
 tempted to extract it. Having waded to " a small craggy island " 
 he sat "on a fragment of the rock," and commenced to fish. 
 " The night was calm, and only now and then a breeze following 
 the curve of the lake gently ruffled its surface; the moon, like 
 the wheel of a vast flaming chariot, rolled over the precipitous 
 dark clouds, and between them some spare stars peeped dimly 
 out : it could scarcely be called night. At the second cast I took 
 a trout of three pounds ; at the third, one on my stretcher and 
 second dropper, and landed both. All the fish in the pool seemed 
 collected round the place the fools ! The moths were irresistible 
 
 in their attractions The day broke, and found us with 
 
 eighty-one fish, none small." An old fisherman, named Humphrey, 
 accompanied him in this expedition. This account, however, we 
 believe to be merely a fisherman's fable. A great many years ago 
 we were told by an aged angler from Llanidloes, whom we some- 
 times met at the Llyn large trout of three or four pounds were 
 occasionally taken ; but of late years, few, if any, are caught exceed- 
 ing half or three-quarters of a pound. The lake round the sides is 
 generally shallow, and the ground exceedingly boggy, so that unless 
 you wade in for some distance you cannot obtain any sport. We 
 found the best to be where the little rocky islet lies, celebrated 
 by Captain Medwin's myth. The water here is tolerably deep 
 near the shore, and the fish run larger. How Medwin waded to 
 the island we are at a loss to conjecture, for it lies at some 
 distance from the shore, and the water is apparently deep. The 
 trout in Bugeilyn are of excellent quality, and are much esteemed. 
 They cut quite red, but are not handsome, and have a dark 
 inky colour, from the nature of the water they inhabit. The 
 colour of their flesh probably arises from the nature of their food ; 
 but it cannot now be owing to the leeches, for they have entirely
 
 LLYN PENRHAIADR ROMANTIC SCENERY. 25 
 
 disappeared. The trout are so exceedingly delicate that they will 
 not keep good even for a day ; they ought, in fact, to be eaten 
 almost as soon as they are caught. The sport in this lake is very 
 uncertain. If you happen to hit on the right day, and have 
 the right fly, a good basket may be obtained. We have gene- 
 rally found the Alder and Fernshaw excellent flies in June, but 
 much depends on the weather. We have had good sport in a 
 thunder-storm, taking some fine fish; but, as a general rule, a 
 nice warm grey day is the best, with the fog down on the tops of 
 the hills. Of course a good breeze is indispensable, and, we may 
 add, a pair of wading-boots. A portion of the southern shore is 
 unapproachable, owing to a turbary : indeed, the shores generally 
 are exceedingly wet and boggy. In consequence of the distance, 
 Bugeilyn. is seldom visited by anglers from Machynlleth, as it 
 involves the expense of a car; you can, however, obtain rude 
 accommodation for man and horse at a small farm-house about a 
 furlong from the pool; but the car must be left on the moor, 
 about half a mile- off. You must provide yourself with a store of 
 " creature comforts " at the " Wynnstay Arms," and with these 
 necessaries you can make yourself tolerably comfortable, even in 
 stormy weather. Some of the trout in Bugeilyn are said to be 
 hog-backed ; we, however, have never caught or seen any. It is 
 most likely one of those legends common to several other lakes, 
 and which have not any substantial foundation. Bugeilyn is a 
 lake of limited extent ; it is less than half a mile long, lying in a 
 direction from N.W. to S.E. : in its broadest part it is little 
 more than a furlong. About three-quarters of a mile to the 
 north is Glasllyn, a small oval-shaped pool with a bright gravelly 
 shore ; it wears a smiling aspect in comparison with its gloomy 
 neighbour. It contains no fish: it has been stocked several 
 times, but the fish all die; so that its waters are supposed to 
 contain mineral poison, probably lead. The road leading to 
 Bugeilyn runs close to its southern extremity. 
 
 |.e rtrjraisbr 
 
 is a wild secluded mountain lake about five miles to the 
 south of Machynlleth. The road to it and it richly deserves 
 the praise has been called " one of the gems of Wales." After
 
 26 PISTYLL-Y-LLYN IMPOSING SCENERY TOWYN. 
 
 proceeding for about a mile on tHe Aberystwith road, you turn 
 off to the left up a romantic mountain glen, beautifully adorned 
 with wood. The scenery reminds us of some portion of the 
 " land of the waterfalls " in the Vale of Neath, and that is no 
 mean praise. The road is better adapted for horseback than a 
 car, as it is somewhat rough in places, but you can approach to 
 within less than two miles from the lake : at this point you must 
 leave your car at a farm-house, and proceed on foot. On your 
 road, about three-quarters of a mile, you arrive at a waterfall over 
 high precipitous rocks, called Pistyll-y-Llyn, the " Cataract of the 
 lake," which is formed by the river Llyfnant, which issues 
 from the pool above. There is a narrow winding path, which 
 is rather formidable to look at but it is neither difficult 
 nor dangerous to climb over the precipice which forms the 
 waterfall. Most parties proceeding to the lake go this way, 
 as it is much nearer than the path over the mountain to the 
 left. The view of the waterfall in ascending the precipice is 
 impressive and magnificent, especially after a fall of rain; the 
 water comes tumbling over the tremendous shelving rock, and 
 dashes in headlong fury into the cwm below. It is certainly 
 one of the finest Falls in Wales, but is little known, which is sur- 
 prising, considering its near proximity to Machynlleth. The Fall 
 is destitute of timber, and, in consequence, has a naked un- 
 furnished appearance. Nevertheless, the scene is exceedingly 
 grand and imposing. In some respects Pistyll-y-Llyn resembles 
 the waterfall at Aber, but it scarcely equals that romantic dingle 
 from the bridge, that " wild and untouched scene," the view from 
 which, backed by the majestic waterfall, presents to the eye one 
 of the most charming vistas full of the poetry and sublimity of 
 Nature which we ever remember to have seen. 
 
 Llyn Penrhaiadr is strictly preserved by Mr. Pryse, of Gogerd- 
 dan, who keeps a boat on it ; but Mr. Lloyd can give permission 
 to gentlemen staying at the " Wynnstay Arms : " you cannot, 
 however, obtain the use of the boat. The fishing on this pool is 
 best in May and June, when capital sport can be obtained, the 
 trout being large and tolerably free. We infinitely prefer Llyn 
 Penrhaiadr to Bugeilyn ; not only as regards distance, but also for 
 sport. There are few more enjoyable trips from Machynlleth
 
 CRAIG ADERYK RESORT OF BIRDS OP PREY DYSYNNI. 27 
 
 than a visit to this lake ; it is wholly destitute of wood, and its 
 aspect is wild, bleak, and desolate. 
 
 TOWYN is a " small, quiet, thoroughly Welsh town," situate on 
 the sea-coast, about four miles from Aberdyfi, near the mouth of 
 the river Dysynni, " one of the best salmon and sewin streams in 
 Wales," if properly preserved. We know of few more delightful 
 rambles than the road from Tal-y-Llyn to Towyn ; as far as the 
 celebrated "Bird Rock," Craig Aderyn, it is a succession of 
 exquisitely beautiful and varied scenery, watered by the Dysynni, 
 one of the sweetest streams in Wales. This is one of the 
 most striking scenes in Merionethshire, and is best seen in 
 the evening. The river scenery from thence to the sea, 
 through a flat country, is tame and uninteresting, possessing 
 no romantic features. The " Bird Rock " is so named from 
 being the constant resort, in the breeding season, of black 
 cormorants, hawks, and other birds of prey, whose discordant 
 clamour adds much to the effect of this sequestered spot. There 
 is a very excellent inn at Towyn, the Corbet Arms, where the 
 angler or artist can obtain cheap and comfortable accommodation ; 
 we, however, in accordance with a general rule, have preferred 
 private lodgings ; although we have reason to believe that a 
 sojourn at the Corbet Arms is much cheaper. Lodgings at Towyn, 
 in summer, are much sought after by families, chiefly from the 
 neighbouring Welsh counties, who come hither for the purpose of 
 bathing, and, in consequence, are rather high. The sea-shore is 
 uninteresting ; but the sands, for miles, are firm and level, the air 
 is pure and bracing, and the inland scenery, including Cader Idris 
 and the Aran range of mountains, is really exquisite. 
 
 THE DYSYNNI, a river whose course may be roughly estimated 
 not to exceed twelve or fourteen miles, is chiefly fed by several 
 rivulets which take their rise from Cader Idris, and the mountains 
 lying between Tal-y-Llyn and the estuary of the Dyfi. By some 
 writers the small stream which flows out of Tal-y-Llyn is called 
 the Maes-y-Pandy, "which joins the Dysynni a few miles below ;" 
 but we have always been informed that the true source of the 
 Dysynni was in Tal-y-Llyn. It flows down the valley, until its 
 course is impeded by a picturesque hill, called Gamallt, which 
 here divides the vale, and is joined by a small brook at the retired
 
 28 SPOET ON THE DYSYNNI LLYN CREGENAN. 
 
 village of Abergwynolwyn a sweet scene and it then turns 
 abruptly to the north-west, until it receives a considerable tri- 
 butary, which rises in a lonely nook not far from the west side of 
 Craig-y-Cae, and flows near Castell-y-Bere, an ancient Welsh 
 castle, situate on "a long isolated rock, much covered with 
 foliage," in the parish of Llanvihangel-y-Pennant. It then pro- 
 ceeds in a south-west course past Craig Aderyn, where it is 
 crossed by a rude bridge of one arch, called Pont-y-Garth, one of 
 the most beautiful and romantic scenes on its course. From 
 thence it flows to Peniarth, the seat of Mr. Wynn ; receiving 
 several small tributaries, until it enters the flat, uninteresting 
 district called Avon Dysynni: here its waters are considerably 
 increased by its junction with the river Vathew, a few miles from 
 the sea, where the united rivers form a small sandy estuary, the 
 mouth of which is choked by shoals. The best part of the river 
 for angling is from Pont-y-Garth to below Pont Dysynni; but 
 there is tolerable fishing above to Abergwynolwyn, and to Tal-y- 
 Llyn, except where the banks of the stream are impeded by wood. 
 We, however, cannot speak favourably, of trout-fishing in the 
 Dysynni, although we are aware that it bears a high reputation. 
 We have fished it repeatedly from Tal-y-Llyn to below Craig 
 Aderyn, always with indifferent success. The trout generally run 
 very small, and it requires you, when the river is clear and low, to 
 keep as much out of sight as possible, otherwise you will scare 
 the fish. A gentleman who frequented Tal-y-Llyn some years ago, 
 sometimes obtained a good day's sport with the worm, when there 
 was a " fresh " in the river ; occasionally he caught some large 
 trout, supposed to have run out of Tal-y-Llyn, of a pound and 
 upwards. We cannot give any results of this mode of angling, 
 which is, after all, a poaching sort of practice. Sewin, and some- 
 times salmon, find their way into Tal-y-Llyn; some have been 
 caught in the lake, with a trout fly, as large as twelve pounds. 
 Salmon-pink are frequently taken in the pool in April and May ; 
 we have taken some even as late as the middle of June. Several 
 of the small streams which join the Dysynni afford sport after 
 rain ; the best of which is the Vathew. Good fishing was formerly 
 obtained in Llyn Cregenan, a small pool, situate near Capel Arthog, 
 on the coast road from Towyn to Dolgelley ; but it has been much
 
 PENLLYN POOL SUCCESSFUL LURE MALLWYD. 29 
 
 injured, of late years, by poaching with the " board" or " otter." 
 As an angling station, except perhaps in April and May, we can- 
 not recommend Towyn. Poaching is carried on in the rivers to a 
 great extent, and immense quantities of salmon and sewin are 
 taken by the net. " Two tons of salmon are said to have been 
 caught in this river in a fortnight ! " What a noble stream for 
 salmon this would be, if properly preserved ! 
 
 PENLLYN POOL. We can only speak from hearsay of this lake, 
 which is a shallow expansion near the sea-shore of a small brook 
 which runs along the old road to Machynlleth. The trout are 
 said to run krge two or three pounds but are exceedingly 
 wary. There are boats on the pool. Medwin, in the " Angler in 
 Wales," describes the lake as full of red trout, but says " they 
 were the most cunning of all the finny tribes," rising freely, but 
 ' short ; " so that you might fish all day, and probably longer, 
 ' without catching more than one or two brace. A successful lure 
 
 was, however, practised, some years ago, by Lord , a most 
 
 accomplished angler, who obtained splendid sport by adopting the 
 expedient of "tipping" his "dropper" with a gentle ; by this 
 means he killed a number of good fish, some of them exceeding 
 two pounds. This story, however, appears to be somewhat on a 
 par with the account of the moonlight sport at Bugeilyn with the 
 white moth. 
 
 There used to be an excellent fisherman and guide living in 
 Towyn, named Jonas ; and such of our readers as purpose a visit 
 there, will do well to avail themselves of his services : we believe 
 his terms are five shillings per day. The distance from Machynlleth 
 to Towyn is fourteen miles; an omnibus, we think, runs three 
 times a week in the summer, between Newtown and Towyn, 
 passing through Machynlleth and Aberdyfi. The old mountain 
 road, which turns off at Penal, four miles from Machynlleth, saves 
 about two miles, and the pedestrian will find this a very pleasant 
 route in fine weather. 
 
 MALLWYD. It is scarcely possible to overrate the romantic 
 position of this retired village, surrounded by wild mountains, 
 thus forming a vestibule to the deep repose of the pastoral vale 
 below. In quiet, picturesque beauty, few places in Wales excel 
 this " green and sylvan temple ;" the " bowered river" serpentines
 
 30 SCENERY AT MALLWYD ENORMOUS YEWS. 
 
 through the valley, enriched with the " sublimest near prospects 
 of mighty mountain slopes," some way up whose bases, nestling 
 in sheltered nooks, farm houses of antique and primitive appear- 
 ance, the patriarchal abodes of the " mountayne men," peep out 
 here and there amidst their umbrageous retreats. To the studious 
 and contemplative, to the disciple of the " gentle arte," Mallwyd 
 as the poet Gray eloquently observes in his description of 
 Monmouth " is the very delight of the eyes, and seat of 
 pleasure." The scenery here is exquisitely beautiful near the 
 close of a fine summer's day; we scarcely remember a more 
 delightful prospect than that from the inn looking across the 
 valley, when the misty top of Rhiw Penhairn, a lofty spur of the 
 gigantic Aran, became suffused with the roseate tints of the 
 departing orb of day. Warner, in his " Second Walk through 
 Wales," thus describes the scenery of the Vale of Dyfi, in this 
 locality : " The course of the Dyfi presented us with many 
 striking beauties of landscape. The valley consists chiefly of rich 
 pasture, inclosed by lofty mountains, some of which, particularly 
 the Aran, vie in point of height with the most lofty in Wales ; 
 through this the river rolls, a silent majestic stream, in sweeping 
 meanders, ornamented here and there with neat cottages, the 
 
 humble but happy abodes of content and peace You cannot 
 
 picture to yourself a more quiet, peaceful, picturesque situation 
 than that of Mallwyd an inclosed vale, round which enormous 
 mountains shoot into the clouds in the form of an amphitheatre ; 
 shading it from the heats of summer, and affording shelter from 
 the blasts of winter. At a small distance from the village, an 
 alpine torrent rushes through the valley, tumbling amid large 
 masses of disjointed rock, beautifully circumstanced with trees 
 and shrubs pendent over the rapid stream: .... The distant view 
 of the village, with the spire of its humble church, enlivened the 
 scene, and brought to our remembrance those pastoral pictures 
 which live in the elegant descriptions of classical bards." 
 
 The site of the venerable church described as "one of the 
 prettiest scenes in the Principality " is remarkable for a grove 
 of yew-trees, several of enormous girth, said to measure from 
 fifteen feet to twenty-seven feet in circumference. Yew-trees are 
 frequently seen.in old churchyards ; probably, in olden times, they
 
 ANGLING AT MALLWYD THE CLEFFION. 31 
 
 were considered as types of the imperishable spirit, after the 
 body had been consigned to the tomb ; but various conjectures 
 have been made as to the origin of the custom. Thus, the bard 
 in Ossian, speaking of two lovers, says, "Here rests their dust, 
 Cathullin ! These lonely yews sprang from the tomb, and shade 
 them from the storm." Yew-trees may be considered as appro- 
 priate companions to the grave : their dark sombre melancholy 
 aspect clothed with perpetual verdure, render them " a happy 
 emblem of that eternal youth and undecaying vigour the soul will 
 enjoy," when "this corruptible shall put on incorruption, and this 
 mortal be clothed with immortality." 
 
 Mallwyd contains an excellent inn, much resorted to during 
 the spring and summer by anglers and artists ; it is, in fact, one 
 of the neatest and most comfortable hostelries to be found in the 
 Principality. The landlord, Mr. Lloyd, is, we believe, a brother 
 of Mr. Charles J. Lloyd, of Machynlleth. 
 
 As an angling station, Mallwyd enjoys an excellent reputation; 
 but the Dyfi is certainly not a good trout stream as far as our 
 experience goes in any part of its course. Trout are more 
 plentiful in the river above Mallwyd, and about Ddinas Mowddwy ; 
 but they are generally small, and after the months of April and 
 May, little sport is to be obtained. The stream is frequently low 
 and clear during the summer, and the banks are besides much 
 impeded by trees and bushes. The Dyfi is joined by a large 
 brook the Cleffion, or Clyvion above Mallwyd, which has its 
 source in Cwm Tafalog ; a deep valley lying between two ridges of 
 mountains called Mynydd Cemmaes and Craig Coch, part of the 
 long range of hills which stretch to the north, from Plinlimmon 
 to the Berwyn mountains. It runs near the road leading from 
 Mallwyd to Garthbibio and Cann Office, for several miles. It 
 flows into the Dyfi below Pont-y-Cleffion, which crosses it on the 
 road to Ddinas Mowddwy. It is said to contain good trout. 
 Warner, in his description of this district, gives the following 
 account of an excursion up the banks of this stream, the scenery 
 of which is singularly romantic : " The character of this brook 
 is so truly alpine, that we could not omit tracing its course 
 for nearly two miles, during a great part of which it rushes 
 through a profound channel, hollowed out of a black rock by its
 
 32 ARAN MOWDDWY SOURCE OP THE DYPI. 
 
 own incessant agitation, and rendered additionally dark by deep 
 overshadowing woods. . . . The best mode of seeing the beauties 
 of a mountainous country, is, without dispute, to follow the 
 meanders of its rivers." Tew will be inclined to deny this 
 opinion, but few tourists follow Warner's example. 
 
 There are several waterfalls and cascades in this neighbourhood 
 worth a visit. At Pont Fallwyd, near Mallwyd, there is a cascade 
 of singular beauty, which has been much and deservedly admired; 
 in its way heightened as it is by striking accessories it is one 
 of the most lovely scenes on the Dyfi. 
 
 THE COWARCH, a small brook which rises high up in the Aran 
 group, near Craig Cowarch, joins the Dyfi between Llan-y- 
 Mowddwy and Ddinas Mowddwy. The Cerist, a more consider- 
 able stream from the same range, runs near the Dolgelley road for 
 several miles, and falls into the Dyfi at Ddinas Mowddwy. These 
 streams contain trout, and good bottom fishing may be had occa- 
 sionally especially after rain. We believe they are quite free to 
 the angler. 
 
 ^rstt Hlofcrbbfog, JOT& fyt JSmtra cf fyt ggfi. 
 
 Aran Mowddwy is the highest mountain in the county of Merio- 
 neth, being forty-one feet higher than Cader Idris. It is a stiff 
 pull to the summit, but the view from it is very extensive, and, 
 under proper lights, magnificent in the extreme. The best ascent is 
 from Blaen Pennant, which is about two miles from Llan-y- 
 Mowddwy, on the road to Bwylch-y-Groes, the "Pass of the 
 Cross," on the road to Bala. "Here," observes an eloquent 
 writer, "an extraordinary rock scene presents itself on the left 
 hand, which commands a mountain prospect so sublime as to set 
 verbal description at defiance. The mountains, retiring as it 
 were from each other, sink their craggy heads, and form a sweeping 
 hollow, consisting of beds of rock so curiously arranged as to give 
 no inaccurate idea of a stupendous flight of stairs. This de- 
 pression suffers the eye to range into Cwm Aran, the awful 
 recesses of one of the mightiest mountains in Wales. Tluther 
 we went, and were filled with astonishment at the objects before 
 us enormous rocks heaped on each other, vast hollows scooped
 
 ARAN MOWDDWY ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT. 33 
 
 by the gigantic hand of Nature, their dark precipitous sides many 
 hundred feet in depth, frowning upon the little valleys that were 
 crouching at their feet." 
 
 On leaving Blaen Pennant, you turn to the left up a profound 
 cwm, savagely grand in its aspect in many respects rivalling 
 Cwm Llan in Snowdon ; a road here leads you to the infant Dyfi, 
 hurrying into the vale below from the wild solitudes whence it 
 has its birth in the lonely mere under the frowning steeps of the 
 mountain. By following the course of the stream you cannot 
 mistake your course, which leads you up Llaith Nant, at the head 
 of which to the right lie the dark waters of the Llyn. Here rest 
 awhile, for you have had a sharp incline to surmount, and survey 
 the dreary savage aspect of the scene around, scarcely exceeded 
 in wildness by any in Britain. The sides of the mountain above 
 the lake are inaccessible, being rifted and hollowed into "vast 
 semicircular cwms." You must proceed to the north up a cwm 
 to the left, called Erw Ddafad Ddu, which leads to the plateau 
 upon which the highest peak is situate. Here stands the " huge 
 carnedd " erected by the Ordnance surveyors, the materials of 
 which are said to have been furnished by the "men of Ddinas 
 Mowddwy, who, on hearing that Cader Idris was about six feet 
 higher, were determined not to be outdone by their Dolgelley 
 neighbours, and by this means raised their parochial hill to a 
 surpassing height." Cader Idris, however, as we have before 
 observed, is about forty feet lower than Aran Mowddwy. There 
 is a grand view of Bala Lake Llyn Tegid and the magnificent 
 group of mountains in the background, the Arenigs, the highest 
 of which is 2,809 feet. The scenery on the ascent of Bwlch-y- 
 Groes has been pronounced among the grandest and most remark- 
 able in Wales, passing through "an immense ravine of great 
 depth and length running through mountains whose declivities 
 are nearly perpendicular." The view of Bala pool on the descent 
 of the other side of the mountain is exquisite : indeed the road 
 for nearly the entire distance between Mallwyd and Bala twenty 
 miles is a succession of scenes of wild beauty, which rivet the 
 gaze of the pilgrim as he slowly passes through one of the most 
 magnificent Bwlchs in Cambria.
 
 34 HARLECH ITS ANTIQUITY PRESENT ASPECT. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 HARLECH LLYNS SCENERY MOEL GOEDOG LLYN VEDW 
 BRITISH CAMP LLYNNIAT7 TECWYN SCENERY LLANBEDR 
 LLYN CWM BYCHAN GLYN ARTRO CRAIG- Y-DDINAS CWM 
 NANTCOL DRWS ARDUDWY. 
 
 " In this track, 
 
 How long soe'er the wanderer roves, each step 
 Shall wake fresh beauties, each short point presents 
 A diff 'rent picture ; new, and yet the same." 
 
 ANTIQUE romantic HARLECH ! situate in a land which affords so 
 much to interest the imagination, and possessing no ordinary 
 claims to the attention of the artist and the antiquary ; " with its 
 grand skeleton of a famous fortress, its round towers lifted to the 
 sky by a noble promontory not jutting over the wild sea waves, 
 but distant a good mile of sand hills, its precipice of a street, 
 green and uncouth with slabs of the mountain's own rock starting 
 through the soil ; its houses of oldest thatch bristling down lower 
 than a man's head; the doors half a man's height high, dark 
 within, weather-stained without, and lichened all over as damp 
 rocks in the thick of woods," such is a truthful picture of 
 Harlech in its decay, not as it was in the wars of the Roses, 
 when the unfortunate Margaret of Anjou found a temporary 
 asylum within the walls of the majestic castle after the blood- 
 stained field of Northampton. Harlech possesses also claims to 
 the notice of the angler. Amongst the lofty mountains in the 
 background, stretching from Maentwrog to Barmouth, are 
 numerous solitary Llyns; and though on some of them there 
 is little to attract in the shape of sport, yet the wanderer will 
 find ample gratification in exploring these " eyes of the mountains," 
 the shores of some strewed with the relics of a remote age, the 
 scene of many a bloody skirmish and ruffianly atrocity. This 
 portion of Merionethshire is one of the most barren solitudinous
 
 SCENERY OF THE HARLECH DISTRICT LLANBEDR. 35 
 
 regions in North Wales. To the English tourist it is almost a 
 terra incognita ; but such adventurous travellers as have dared to 
 dive into its hidden cwms and recesses, unaided and alone, with 
 the Ordnance Map and pocket-compass as guides, have enjoyed, as 
 we have done, the wonders of Nature, and exclaimed in the 
 fulness of their hearts, " These are thy glorious works, Parent of 
 good ! " The mountain scenery in the neighbourhood of Harlech 
 is said to resemble, in many of its external aspects, the savage 
 sterility of the Sierra Morena ; it has, however, in the midst of 
 this wildness, some gleams of beauty, a few lovely and romantic 
 valleys, set like oases in the desert, to one or two of which we 
 shall in due time conduct our readers. Before we proceed with a 
 description of the scenic features of the Harlech district, we 
 cannot omit to notice the quiet village of Llanbedr, distant from 
 Harlech about three miles on the road to Barmouth. At this 
 retired spot there is a comfortable inn, " The Victoria," kept by 
 a brother and sister named .Richards ; and although in the long 
 course of our rambles in various parts of the Principality we have 
 often met with comfort and civility, yet for liberality and real 
 kindness we never found anything to equal the host and hostess 
 of this humble village inn. To the angler especially, the place is 
 perfection; and many pleasant and profitable days have we passed 
 there in bygone years. "We must, however, for the present, 
 return to Harlech, and take up our quarters at the " Blue Lion," 
 a well-conducted hostelrie where excellent board and lodging 
 can be obtained early in the season overlooking the time-worn 
 remains of the castle, and possessing from its terrace one of the 
 noblest prospects in the British Isles. On a lovely summer's 
 morn, here you can behold " the disrobing to the sun of all 
 
 Snowdon's mountains Here are to be seen high up 
 
 Snowdon, peculiar tints of umber red, mixed with grey and blue, 
 the former ferruginous probably, but whispering to fancy of 
 ancient volcanic ruins. The chaotic lofty view of their confused 
 groups the rolling blackness of the mist, itself now become 
 their most exquisite beauty is food for lofty phantasy." l Sea- 
 ward, perchance, the eye rests on a white sail, midway between 
 Harlech and Criccieth, with its ruined castle, perched like its 
 
 1 Mountain Decameron. 
 D2
 
 36 LAKES IN THE HARLECH DISTRICT. 
 
 nobler sister on a weather-stained rock, and frowning over tne 
 blue and sparkling waters. To dilate worthily on all the varied 
 natural beauties of Harlech, and the adjacent locality, would 
 require a far more gifted pen than ours. 
 
 Harlech Castle and its history have been so often described, 
 that it would be foreign to the purposes of this work to recapitu- 
 late what is now so well known to every reader of Welsh history and 
 topography. We shall therefore proceed to examine the interior 
 of the hill country in the neighbourhood comparatively little 
 known to the tourist and to conduct the sportsman to some of 
 the numerous llyns in the more immediate vicinity, offering 
 occasional passing remarks on the scenery and antiquities most 
 worthy of notice. The number of lakes, great and small, in the 
 Harlech and Llanbedr district, amount to about twenty-four. 
 Eor the sake of convenience, we will confine ourselves for the 
 present to those most easily reached from Harlech, reserving an 
 account of the southern portion until we arrive at Llanbedr. 
 Merionethshire contains more lakes than any other county in 
 Wales ; it is difficult to furnish a correct list, and still more 
 difficult to afford accurate data as to sport. Changes occur year 
 after year, we fear for the worse, and so long as the mining popu- 
 lation are allowed to poach ad libitum several of the finest pools, 
 so long will the chances of sport annually diminish. As far as 
 we can ascertain, we are warranted in asserting that there are at 
 least sixty-six llyns in the county; some of them mere ponds, 
 others destitute of fish. Out of these we have visited upwards 
 of half ; a few of them, it is perhaps not too much to say, we are 
 more intimately acquainted with than any other Englishman 
 living. It may be convenient en passant to enumerate, seriatim, 
 the northern position of the group, reserving further particulars, 
 route, etc., for the present. 
 
 Llynniau Tecwyn Uchaf and Isaf are situate in the mountains 
 in the parish of Llan Tecwyn, on the mountain road to Maentwrog 
 from Talsarnau. Llyn Vedw, near Moel Goedog, about four 
 miles north-east of Harlech ; Llynniau Eiddew Mawr and Vach, 
 one mile and a half north-east of Llyn Fedw ; Llyn Caerwych 
 three-quarters of a mile north-west of Llyn Eiddew Vach ; Llyn 
 Lennerch, or Llenyrch, a small pool one mile to the east of Tecwyn
 
 LLYN EIDDEW MAWR ROUTE TO THE LAKE. 37 
 
 Uchaf ; Llyn Dywarchen, three-quarters of a mile north-east of 
 Llyn Eiddew Vach. These comprise nearly all the lakes worth 
 notice in the vicinity of Harlech. We have not included Llyn 
 Cwm Bychan, because although that fine pool is sometimes visited 
 from thence, it more properly belongs to the Llanbedr series, and 
 is from that village of easy access. All the pools above mentioned 
 lie in the mountainous district at the back of Harlech, bounded 
 to the east by the wild, sterile, desolate rocks called Craig Ddrwg 
 and Craig Wion. To the south of these mountains, and divided 
 by the Bwlch Tyddiad, the Rhinog range commences, which 
 stretches across the country in a southerly direction to the 
 estuary of the Mawddach. Within the recesses of this secluded 
 district, there are at least thirteen llyns, at nearly all of which 
 we have had sport. More of these hereafter. 
 
 ftp iibfofo Pafcor, 
 
 a beautiful sheet of water about four miles and a half from 
 Harlech, lies a short distance to the west of Craig Ddrwg : its 
 length from north to south is about half a mile ; its breadth in 
 the widest part not much exceeding a furlong. The road to 
 it, especially after rainy weather, is rough and fatiguing; in 
 no case should we advise a stranger to proceed thither with- 
 out a guide, unless provided with the Ordnance Map. It is 
 our intention, however, to furnish such information as may 
 enable the angler, should he feel inclined, to wander into these 
 wilds by himself, and to dispense with the services of a guide. 
 We may premise that the routes to the lakes in this locality are 
 none of them nearer Harlech than four or five miles some are 
 six or seven and the ascent to them is arduous. The road to 
 Llyn Eiddew, the " Ivy lake," commences with the hills behind 
 Harlech, at the summit of which you get into the old road to 
 Maentwrog, which you follow nearly to Moel Goedog; and just 
 beyond y Fonllef hir, "the long loud cry" supposed to have 
 been a battle-field in early pagan times the road branches off in 
 the direction of Trawsfynydd : here the road bends to the north- 
 west, and by means of the map and keeping to the west, you cross 
 over a wild morass, with scarcely any path, until you reach the
 
 38 WILD SCENERY ANTIQUITIES LARGE TROUT. 
 
 shores of Llyn Eiddew. A brook discharges itself from the 
 lake, and runs in a southerly direction towards Llyn-Cwm-Bychan, 
 the river from which joins it above Dol Rheiddiog. If the brook 
 is full of water, you may soon fill your basket with small trout. 
 The scenery around Llyii Eiddew Mawr is " untameably wild," 
 presenting an aspect similar to scenes Salvator Rosa loved to 
 depict ; and the view of Y Craig Ddrwg is as savage and desolate 
 as imagination can conceive. The antiquary will here revel in 
 some very interesting remains of an ancient British town, until 
 lately unknown, which lie on the north-west shore; and there 
 are also several Druidical circles. The trout in Llyn Eiddew are 
 small, but of excellent quality, and from the middle of May until 
 the middle of July, the sport is sometimes good ; as many as from 
 six to eight dozen may be taken in a day. The best side to fish 
 is the west shore, but sport may be obtained on either side. The 
 walking round the lake is tolerably easy. The flies most success- 
 ful in summer are the Alder, March Brown, Coch-a-bonddti, Black 
 Gnat, and the Eernshaw. Altogether, although fatiguing, this is 
 a very delightful excursion. LLYN EIDDEW VACH lies about half 
 a mile to the north, and the trout here are much larger some of 
 half a pound and upwards are taken ; but as the pool is of very 
 limited extent, there is not much fishing ground, except near a 
 steep rock on the east side. Erorn thence, about one mile to the 
 north-west, lies 
 
 on higher ground, in a very bleak and dreary country. Here there 
 is little or no protection from the weather. Some years ago, we 
 obtained excellent sport on this pool for about two hours : there 
 was a very cold wind from the north, with occasional showers of 
 sleet ; but the trout rose freely, and we caught about forty of a 
 quarter of a pound and upwards. Very large trout are said to 
 exist in this lake, but few, if any, are ever taken with the fly. 
 This is a vulgar legend, which attaches to almost all lakes where 
 small fish only abound. An ancient British camp, called Bryn 
 Cader Fawr, about three-quarters of a mile to the north-east, is 
 worth a visit. It is laid down on the map.
 
 LLYN VEDW NOVEL CONTRIVANCE MOEL GOEDOG. 39 
 
 flgn foebfo. 
 
 The route to this Llyn from Harlech is the same as to Eid- 
 dew Mawr, as far as Y Fonllef hir. Instead of proceeding to 
 the west, you advance in the direction of Moel Goedog, 
 " the woody hill," the western shoulder of which you cross, 
 and from thence to the pool it is three-quarters of a mile in 
 a north-east direction. The distance from Harlech is about 
 three miles and a half. Some years ago Llyn Vedw was full of 
 very large, handsome trout, and fine sport was frequently 
 obtained. The only drawback was a margin of weeds nearly a 
 rod's cast from the shore, which rendered it difficult to manage a 
 large fish, if hooked outside this barrier, and in consequence you 
 frequently broke off. We once caught several fine trout in this 
 pool, upwards of one pound each, with a small blue gnat. On 
 the same day, June 3d, 1848, we saw several fish that could not 
 be less than three or four pounds each, disporting themselves on 
 the surface, but they rose far out of reach. A fisherman from 
 Llanbedr, named Roberts, informed us that he once caught a 
 large basket of fish in Vedw, by means of a raft formed of a five- 
 barred gate; this he launched, and drifting across the middle 
 of the lake, was enabled by this contrivance to throw over and 
 capture some very good trout. Llyn Vedw can scarcely be 
 called a lake ; it is about one furlong and a half in length, and 
 about one furlong broad. It supplies a corn mill, and there is a 
 sluice on it to regulate the supply of water. It appears deep 
 towards the centre, but the water round the sides is shallow and 
 weedy. A fine sunny day, with occasional clouds, is best for this 
 pool. "Were it for nothing else, Llyn Vedw is well worth a 
 visit, for the very exquisite view of Snowdon, the Traeths, the 
 highlands on the south-east, and the peninsula of Lleyn, " land of 
 the bleak, the treeless moor," which you obtain from the summit 
 of Moel Goedog. From hence, on a fine, clear summer's evening, 
 especially before or after rain, the lights and colouring of distant 
 objects are perfectly gorgeous and entrancing. It must be seen 
 it cannot adequately be described. Moel Goedog was anciently 
 a fortified British post ; traces of the circular double-walled camp
 
 40 LLYNNIAU TECWYN SCENERY. 
 
 are very perfect. The Tloman military roads to Maentwrog and 
 Trawsfynydd pass near this eminence. From its name, it was 
 doubtless formerly covered with wood, and it must have been a 
 strong fortification. This Roman road branches off to Traws- 
 fynydd, near Y Fonllef hir ; several of the ancient mile or direction 
 stones still exist, and there may also be seen some Druidical 
 circles. 
 
 ITpniatt ftetfojm Hxjjaf nrit* |af. 
 
 These lakes may be reached by car or ponies. You proceed 
 along the road to Tan-y-Bwlch, as far as the village of Tal- 
 sarnau; here you turn off to the right, up a steep, rough 
 mountain-road, past a farmhouse called Cefyn Trevor Fawr, 
 passing on your right Llyn Tecwyn Isaf, which lies in the 
 bottom, to a farm at Llantecwyn, where you can put up your 
 horse and car. From thence there is a good road to Llyn 
 Tecwyn Uchaf, which runs along the entire length of the pool. 
 This is a very beautiful lake, nearly half a mile long, and 
 abounds with small trout, Llyn Llenyrch, a small lake about 
 one mile to the east, is also full of trout, many of them large ; 
 but these lakes are much poached by the quarry men from 
 Ffestiniog and Maentwrog, and the trout are therefore shy. We 
 believe there are no trout in Llyn Tecwyn Isaf, but there are 
 perch and eels. We cannot recommend the fishing in these pools 
 as far as our own experience goes, but the excursion to them is 
 highly interesting and romantic. The scenery at Llyn Tecwyn is 
 really exquisite ; a wild dingle leading to the Harlech road also 
 deserves exploring. A small horseshoe-shaped pool, called Llyn 
 Dywarchen which must not be confounded with its more 
 celebrated namesake in Caernarvonshire lies in the wilds about 
 two miles and a half south of Llyn Llenyrch. This tarn is also 
 poached by quarry men ; we have heard it contained good trout, 
 but we never tried it. In completing our description of these 
 lakes, we should strongly recommend the angler to confine his 
 attention, if bent upon sport only, to the Eiddews and Caerwych. 
 Vedw is at best very uncertain, and of late years much fallen off, 
 probably from poaching.
 
 LLANBEDR COMFORTABLE INN GEOLOGY BOTANY. 41 
 
 Some of the most enjoyable days of our life have been 
 passed at this retired spot. We prefer it infinitely to any 
 other fishing station in North Wales, not on account of sport, 
 for that is now somewhat indifferent, but for the variety of walks 
 and excursions it affords, all of them most delightful. The 
 vicinity of Llanbedr is also rich in Celtic antiquities. Probably 
 few districts exist in Wales where there are so many evidences of 
 an ancient people, and the superstitious relics of a dim age. 
 Some of the Druidical Cromlechs and Cistvaens are amongst the 
 finest which at present exist in the Principality; and there are 
 also several fortified British camps, with cyttiau, which are well 
 worth inspection. Most of those interesting antiquities we have 
 visited in our solitary wanderings in quest of sport. The botanist 
 and geologist will also find an ample field for exploration at 
 Llanbedr ; many rare plants are to be found in the hill district, 
 and the geological formation of the country is also well worth 
 inspection. A sketch of the geology of the county of Merioneth 
 appeared in the Mining Journal in 1849. With the Ordnance 
 Map, the " Book of North Wales," which is an excellent guide 
 and a few odd numbers of the Archeeologia Cambrensis, no man 
 need be at a loss to find out the antiquarian curiosities of the 
 district. 
 
 Brothers of the " gentle craft," allow us now to introduce you 
 to " mine host and hostess " of the Victoria. Picture to your- 
 selves a hearty welcome, a cordial shake of the hand, a glass of 
 cwrw, brewed of the*4est, and tapped in anticipation of your 
 visit ; many kind inquiries after your health, absent friends, &c. 
 such is the reception you are likely to meet with at this paragon 
 of village inns. The only fault to find is, that you are nearly 
 " killed with kindness " you absolutely revel in " creature com- 
 forts." Fancy yourself sitting down to dinner at 8 o'clock P.M. 
 after an exciting day in the wilds, and a walk of twenty or 
 twenty-five miles, with the appetite of a cormorant, and finding a 
 repast fit for a prince. Broiled sewin and trout, roast lamb, 
 chickens, ducklings, young peas and potatoes, besides a variety of
 
 42 LAKES LLYN CWM BYCHAN GLYN ARTRO. 
 
 excellent sweets prepared by the kind hostess, who does not 
 appear happy unless you make a vigorous onslaught on these 
 delicacies seriatim. Fancy yourself reclining in an easy chair, in 
 a dreamy state, after your gastronomic feats, with a balmy weed 
 between your lips, or meerschaum filled with choicest Latikia, 
 between whiles sipping from a glass of carefully compounded 
 whiskey punch, or "cold without." Such is life at Llanbedr. 
 Are we not justified, then, in asserting that there is not such 
 another comfortable hostelrie in Wales ? But a truce to these 
 reflections ; it is time that we should shoulder our basket, grasp 
 our rod, and forthwith conduct our brethren of the angle to the 
 various Llyns in the adjacent hills ; and, with one exception, a 
 pretty tug it is to reach them. What can be more spirit-stirring 
 what can produce more buoyant feelings more real enjoyment 
 than a walk amongst the wild mountains, or by the side of one 
 of those merry, joyous, flashing streams which fill the moorland 
 solitude with the melody of their rippling waters ? 
 
 The lake and river fishing at Llanbedr may be divided into at 
 least four or five separate excursions, which for tiie sake of con- 
 venience we will classify as follows : First, Llyns Cwm Bychan 
 and Pry ved ; second, Llyns Prefeddau, Cwm Howel, and Ybi ; 
 third, Glowlyn and Llyn Du ; fourth, Llyns Irddyn, Bodlyn, and 
 Dulyn; fifth, Cwm Nantcol. Besides these there are several 
 brooks and rivers which sometimes afford sport, or are worthy of 
 a visit for their picturesque beauties. In point of interest none 
 of these can bear comparison to the wild secluded 
 
 Cfom gt^an, 
 
 "the little hollow," and its fine lake. The road to this 
 romantic Cwm, through Glyn Artro, is excelled by few in Wales. 
 Watered by the river Artro, sometimes a mighty torrent, which 
 flashing from its mountain source the surplus waters of Llyns 
 Eiddew and Bychan runs joyously through this enchanting 
 valley, and pursues its way to Llanbedr, after which, running 
 through a marsh, it flows into the sea at Mochras. The road to 
 Llyn Cwm Bychan is tolerably good ; a car can be driven, if re- 
 quired, to an old farm-house near the head of the lake, in imme-
 
 INDIFFERENT SPOET LYNN CWM BYCHAN. 43 
 
 diate vicinity to Bwlch Tyddiad, through which it is supposed 
 was an ancient Roman road, probably from Heriri Mons, or 
 Castell Prysor ; the stone steps, or rather stairs, said to be laid 
 by Roman soldiers, are still tolerably perfect. The best plan, 
 however, is to leave the horse and car at Dol Rheiddiog, and 
 crossing the Artro over a rude bridge proceed over some meadows 
 leading to the lake on foot. Imagination can scarcely depict a 
 more savage, desolate scene than that surrounding the waters of 
 Llyn Cwm Bychan. In some of its sterner aspects "when the 
 waters rage and swell, and the mountains shake" amidst "clouds 
 and darkness" we question if there is a more impressive picture 
 of naked sterility and barrenness in the Principality. Some 
 attempts have been made to relieve the desolate appearance of 
 the place at the southern side of the lake, by planting larch and 
 spruce fir amongst the rocky debris which cover the shores ; but 
 these attempts to beautify are sadly obstructed by the goats and 
 sheep, and an occasional conflagration of the heather. 
 
 Llyn Cwm Bychan is nearly half a mile long from east to west; 
 it is however narrow, scarcely exceeding two furlongs. It is 
 supposed to be of immense depth in the centre, and from the 
 colouring of surrounding objects, the waters assume a dark, 
 melancholy aspect. Generally speaking we have met with very 
 indifferent success at this pool the trout are shy and sullen as 
 the waters they inhabit. Eew of large size are ever caught : we 
 have taken some of half a pound ; these are a beautiful yellow- 
 bellied trout, small head, with bright red and black spots. Some 
 of them, when cooked, cut red, and are delicious eating. In May 
 and June, the salmon fry, which at that season abound in the 
 lake, sometimes afford excellent sport ; they are about six ounces 
 in weight, and of a bright gray colour. The best day's fishing 
 we ever had on this pool, was on a very wet day, June 1, 1848 
 when we caught forty-four, including several very fine salmon 
 pink. Eish on the south side, near and under Craig-y-Saeth, " the 
 crag of the arrow," which is one of the finest scenic features of 
 the lake. When the Artro is full, after heavy rains, some fair 
 trout fishing may be obtained ; but after leaving Dol Rheiddiog, 
 the banks of the river are so clothed with trees and coppice wood 
 as to prevent throwing the fly. We should imagine, however,
 
 44 LLYN PRYVED TROUT. 
 
 that an expert "bottom" fisher, either with salmon paste or 
 worm, would obtain good sport in some of the deep pools which 
 occasionally occur in the river's progress through the umbrageous 
 dingle. 
 
 the " lake of the worm " why so named we could never 
 learn is a small, narrow, sequestered pool, of very difficult 
 access, in a hollow on the east side of Craig Wion. You can 
 ascend to it from the farm-house already mentioned, at the 
 head of Cwm Bychan. We know of few harder pulls. From 
 the experience of several visits, we found the trout in this pool 
 exceedingly shy, and from the paucity of " rises," both to the 
 natural and artificial fly, we should imagine not very numerous. 
 The trout are, however, generally large, and when they do rise, 
 you are almost sure of hooking them. We find in our journal, 
 that on June 20, 1848, we caught six trout weighing four pounds; 
 we did not begin to fish until half past four P.M.; this was the 
 best sport we ever had on the lake. Llyn Pryved is the most 
 dangerous lake to fish that we are acquainted with ; the sides are 
 bluff and precipitous, and the rocks being covered with a tall 
 growth of heather serves to conceal many deep and dangerous 
 crevices, and unless you are very careful, you might easily break 
 your litnbs. On the road to the pool, you pass near a small piece 
 of water called Llyn Twr Glas, " the lake of the Blue Tower" 
 a singular cognomen it lies about one third of a mile to the 
 north-west. It contains no fish. Though we cannot report very 
 favourably of Llyn Pryved, yet we strongly recommend an excur- 
 sion to it; the healthy pleasurable excitement of the walk 
 amongst these desolate wilds, fully compensates for lack of sport. 
 An old fisherman at Trawsfynydd once informed us that he had 
 caught, at different times, several large fish in the llyn of from 
 three to four pounds each, which he said " fought horrid savage." 
 All we can say is, that this lake has every appearance of contain- 
 ing monster trout.
 
 GLYN ARTRO ROMANTIC SCENERY. 45 
 
 We must now return to DOL RHETDDIOG, " the meadow of the 
 salmon," and proceed down the lovely vale of Glyn Artro, rendered 
 still more lovely by the contrasts it affords to the scene of desola- 
 tion we have just emerged from. The valley for several miles is 
 clothed with wood, and the river as it dashes along, peeps here 
 and there out of its mantle of green, rolling merrily away over 
 rocks and stones. The lofty spurs of Ehinog Vawr enclose the 
 scene on the east, and sometimes you " have grand breaks : 
 islands covered with red and purple heaths," standing out from 
 "abysses of foliage." The air is "breathing incense" from the 
 perfume of the whitethorn, honeysuckle, and other sweet-smelling 
 wild flowers ; " this many-scented perfume " is combined with the 
 aromatic odour wafted from the mountains, proceeding from wild 
 thyme and bog myrtle : the evening sun sheds a flood of golden 
 radiance on the distant mountain-tops, whilst the air resounds 
 with the sweet melody of birds. A more thoroughly placid scene 
 full of pastoral delights it is scarcely possible to imagine. Long 
 will the recollection of Glyn Artro dwell in our remembrance. 
 At Aber Artro is a pretty cottage, delightfully situate at the 
 " meeting of the waters," the junction of the rivers Artro and 
 Nantcol, over which there is a stone bridge. This residence is 
 built on a pleasant dol or meadow, adorned with trees and ever- 
 greens, and was erected some years ago, by the late Bell Lloyd, Esq., 
 of Cors-y-Gedol. Some confusion exists as to the names of these 
 rivers. The Ordnance surveyors call the brook that runs out of 
 Llyn Howel and other sources, down Cwm Nautcol, the Artro, 
 and the valley Afon Artro ; no name appears on the map, to the 
 river which flows from Cwm Bychan. The latter is properly the 
 Artro, and as such we have distinguished it. The views on the 
 road from Aber Artro to Llanbedr are very pleasing; the rocks, 
 adorned with wood ivy and other parasitical plants, form in 
 some instances a strong resemblance to the walls of a ruined 
 castle.
 
 46 GLOWLYN ITS ELEVATION SANDPIPERS. 
 
 or Gloywlyn, which signifies the "Bright Lake," is a small 
 and very narrow llyn about five miles and a half north-east 
 of Llanbedr, under the north-west steeps of Rhinog Yawr, and 
 lying between that mountain and Craig-y-Saeth. The altitude of 
 Rhinog Vawr is 2,463 feet above the sea-level, and looms out 
 majestically from Llanbedr; Glowlyn therefore lies at a consider- 
 able elevation, and is not unfrequently buried in the clouds. It 
 is one of the smallest pools in the district, being scarcely two 
 furlongs in length, whilst its breadth in no part much exceeds 
 100 yards. Except at the north end, where the water is rather 
 deep, it is generally so shallow that a man may actually wade 
 across it in one part when it is low in summer. At the southern 
 extremity the bed of the lake is covered with weeds and rushes, 
 which form an admirable preserve for the finny tribe, and a place 
 of shelter for wild duck and other aquatic birds. Sandpipers 
 frequent this lake in the breeding season. These beautiful little 
 birds are here so tame and fearless, as to pass within a few inches 
 of your feet at the very edge of the water whilst you are fishing 
 on the shore. 
 
 Notwithstanding Glowlyn is small and shallow, it is decidedly 
 the best lake in the neighbourhood of Llanbedr. The trout are 
 generally large and free, and afford excellent diversion. The fol- 
 owing extract from our journal will give the reader some idea of 
 the sport we have obtained there : " Wednesday, June 20, 1849. 
 Went to Glowlyn : good fishing-day, with a moderate breeze. 
 Caught eleven trout, weighing altogether nine pounds two ounces. 
 The largest, a magnificent fish of three pounds, gave a splendid 
 run for some time; he was taken with the pea-hen or Llyn 
 Gwynant fly. The second-largest weighed one pound two ounces; 
 the third one pound, the fourth three-quarters of a pound; the 
 remainder eight ounces each." Many of the trout are very 
 beautiful to look at when fresh caught, being of a bright golden 
 colour, but are of an inferior quality for the table. The best side 
 to fish is from the eastern shore, especially from some rocks 
 which shelve off into deep water. There is, however, sometimes
 
 EXCELLENT SPORT ROUTE TO GLOWLTN. 47 
 
 good fishing to be had nearly all round the lake. Throw as near 
 as you can to the weeds on the south side ; very large trout lie 
 there. The best flies in June and beginning of July are the 
 alder, pea-hen (the latter a most killing fly), the wren's tail, 
 fernshaw; a small red spider made from a cock's huckle, with 
 black legs and some gold twist on the body, is also an excellent 
 fly. A March-brown, dressed pale, wings and body, is also useful 
 in wet weather. Glowlyn, of late years, has been much injured 
 by poaching, which has rendered the trout less " free " than for- 
 merly. That pernicious implement "the board" is often used 
 here by the quarrymen from Ffestiniog, Trawsfynydd, and else- 
 where. It is a great pity that a lake of such superior character 
 should gradually have become spoiled from this cause. Of all the 
 pools in the neighbourhood of Llanbedr, Glowlyn, with the excep- 
 tion, perhaps, of Llyn Pryved, is the most difficult of access. 
 The route as far as Crafnant is the same as that to Llyn Cwm 
 Bychan. Here you turn off to the right over a bridge which 
 crosses the Artro, and after passing over some swampy meadows, 
 and through a wood, the real toil of the ascent commences. You 
 emerge at once into the " open," upon a narrow road paved with 
 loose stones of all sizes, which give way under your feet, and add 
 greatly to the fatigue of the journey. Once, however, at the 
 summit of this pass (Crafnant), the rest of the walk is com- 
 paratively easy. You cross a high dry stone wall on your left, 
 and proceed over a peat morass for some distance, intersected by 
 a brook running from Glowlyn, until you arrive at the range of 
 mountain, behind which, in a hollow, the lake reposes. Although 
 the Ordnance Map will enable the stranger to find the road 
 tolerably well, yet it would perhaps be better on the first visit to 
 make use of a guide ; as the path, if it can be called one, across 
 the turbary, is, after rain especially, somewhat heavy. The 
 aspect of the scenery here is dreary and desolate, but the effect is 
 in some measure relieved by the lofty peak of Rhinog Vawr, 
 which rises in grandeur before you, whilst the barren, tempest- 
 iven summit of Craig-y-Saeth appears on the left. Glowlyn lies 
 oetween these two mountains. The view of Snowdon, and the 
 Snowdonian group of mountains generally, from the north end of 
 Glowlyn, in clear weather, is very grand and imposing. We should
 
 48 LLYNNIAU PKEFEDDAU, CWM HOWEL, AND YBI. 
 
 also recommend a visit to the summit of Rhinog Vawr from this 
 lake, taking " a cast " on Llyn Du, " the Black pool," en passant, 
 which lies immediately under the highest peak of Rhinog Vawr, 
 the distance being about half-an-hour's walk from Glowlyn. We 
 once witnessed the most extraordinary rise of fish in this lake 
 that we ever saw. It seemed as if the whole surface of the water 
 was absolutely alive, as though hundreds of pebbles were being 
 thrown into the water from all quarters. The trout, however, 
 would not look at the artificial fly; whether they were merely 
 disporting themselves, or actually feeding on the surface on 
 something we could not see, we cannot say. In the course of 
 one hour's stay we only caught two trout, which were as black, 
 big-headed, and ugly as any we ever saw. They were very 
 strong for their size, about half a pound. A local fisherman 
 informed us ^that the trout in Llyn Du were sometimes very 
 " free," but their coarse quality and lean appearance hardly 
 repaid the trouble of fishing for them. On the summit of 
 Rhinog Vawr, the Ordnance surveyors have raised a large carnedd, 
 or heap of stones, which can be seen for some distance off. 
 A splendid panoramic view can be obtained here on a fine clear 
 day. Snowdon, the Traeths, Lleyn, Bardsey Isle, Cader Idris, &c., 
 are all visible, and bird's-eye peeps of several llyns. "We cannot 
 bid farewell to Glowlyn without looking back to the many 
 very pleasant excursions we have made to it in former years; 
 and a regretful feeling steals over us when we reflect that, in all 
 human probability, we shall revisit it no more. 
 
 ITIgnraHtt Iprefebban, <fom fjofafl, attfr ||Iri, 
 
 is the next group of lakes we purpose introducing to the notice of 
 the reader. These pools lie at a greater distance from Llanbedr than 
 those previously noticed. The route is through Cwm Nantcol, the 
 " hollow of the sunken brook," which leads to the Drws Ardudwy, 
 " one of the sublimest scenes in Wales," of which more anon. 
 After following the path up the vale for several miles, you come 
 to an ancient farm-house, the tenant of which, an extensive sheep 
 farmer, lately dead, was said to be worth 30,000 ! He had 
 several thousand sheep on these barren wilds, and notwithstanding
 
 LLYN CWM HOWEL IMPRESSIVE SCENERY. 49 
 
 his reputed wealth, lived almost as coarsely as the poorest peasant. 
 It is by such means, combined with low rents, that Welsh 
 mountain farmers acquire such wealth. After passing the farm- 
 house, the road gradually becomes more difficult. About two 
 miles further, you must turn off to the right, up the side of the 
 mountain, until you reach 
 
 this requires some " heavy collar work," as the ground you pass 
 over is rocky and precipitous. This is a very small Llyn lying 
 under the steeps of Llether, containing some very handsome trout, 
 but it is difficult to fish in the best part on account of weeds ; when 
 there is a good breeze, some nice fish of six ounces or half a pound 
 may be taken, which are of excellent quality. The trout here were 
 formerly very "free," but of late years have become more wary, 
 probably from poaching. The south shore of the lake is of fine 
 gravel, and the water is beautifully clear. The route from hence to 
 
 is steep, but not of very great length. Were it not well 
 worth a visit as one of the finest and most impressive mountain 
 scenes in the district, Llyn Howel is utterly valueless as 
 regards sport. The deep hollow, which contains the waters of 
 the lake, is under the southern precipices of Rhinog Vach, a 
 mountain of little inferior altitude to its giant sister. It is hardly 
 possible to picture a more gloomy, savage spot than this. The 
 shores of the lake are in parts covered with large masses of rock, 
 piled on each other in chaotic confusion, evidently detached by 
 the effects of time and weather from the precipices above, and it 
 requires no little care and exertion on the part of the angler to 
 scramble along them with due regard to the safety of his limbs. 
 In several respects this lake resembles Llyn-y-Cae, previously 
 described. The water is exceedingly deep, particularly under the 
 precipices on the east side, which run perpendicularly down into 
 the pool, and the deep basin or cwm in which it lies is of volcanic 
 appearance. The trout in Llyn Howel are exceedingly numerous, 
 but very small, many of them with ugly flat heads, and eyes that 
 
 E
 
 50 LLYN YBI BOUTE LARGE TROUT. 
 
 leer upon you with a strange expression ; they are also of the 
 worst quality, and so delicate, that they keep fresh only for a 
 very short time. You can frequently take two or three at a cast, 
 and generally fill your basket in a few hours. The average size 
 is about three ounces. Llyn Howel is about two furlongs in 
 length. 
 
 A very steep, narrow ridge, connecting Rhinog Vach with 
 Llether, separates Llyn Howel from Llyn Ybi ; over this ridge or 
 " divide," you must wend your way to get to 
 
 The easiest way, however, to this lake is through the sublime 
 Pass of Drws Ardudwy, at the head of which, you turn to the 
 right over the morass. By keeping under Rhinog Vach you 
 arrive at the lake. At the summit of the ridge before mentioned, 
 there is a high dry stone boundary wall, and when it blows or 
 rains, we have found under the lee of it comfortable shelter. The 
 scenery around Llyn Ybi is dreary and comparatively uninterest- 
 ing ; it lies under Llether, the rugged precipices of Rhinog Vach, 
 bearing north-west. Ybi is the parent of the Camlan, which 
 stream runs through Cwm Camlan, until it joins the Mawddach, 
 near Tyn-y-Groes. Its course from the lake is about seven miles. 
 On this river the celebrated Rhaiadr Du, the " Black Cataract," 
 better known as the Dol-y-Melynllyn Fall, occurs. On the " lanes" 
 of water in the Camlan above the " falls," some excellent trout- 
 fishing may be had when there is a good breeze. The trout in 
 Llyn Ybi are superb fish, both in appearance and quality, but they 
 are exceedingly shy, and you may, as we have done, visit this 
 pool time after time, without being rewarded with even a "rise." 
 The best sport we ever had there was in a very stormy day, when 
 we succeeded in landing four fine trout, averaging one pound 
 each. This lake is much poached at night with the " otter," by 
 men from Dolgelley; this practice contributes to render the trout 
 still more sullen than they naturally are, and at present it is 
 almost useless to fish Ybi with the angle. Before the " otter " 
 or "board" was in vogue, very large trout have been taken in 
 this lake with the rod : a Llanbedr fisherman informed us that
 
 LLYNNIAU IRDDYN, BODLYN, AND DULYN. 51 
 
 one afternoon in summer, he caught two trout which weighed 
 four pounds each, besides several of one pound and upwards. 
 Trout have been taken here with the fly exceeding five pounds. 
 The shores of Llyn Ybi are flat and open, of easy walking, although 
 rather wet and boggy in some parts. The best dish of fish we 
 ever saw from Ybi was at Dolgelley, in the month of June, 1855: 
 they had been caught at night with the " board." There were 
 about two dozen trout of from half a pound to one pound each, 
 in high condition. It is a pity that such a valuable lake as Ybi 
 is for fine trout, should be so utterly spoiled. The distance to 
 this pool from Llanbedr is about eight miles, and the road is, at 
 least for half the distance, exceedingly rough, and the climbing 
 arduous. There is a path from Llyn Ybi over the steep shoulder 
 of Llether, and from thence along the high ridge called Crib y 
 BMw, at the foot of which lies the small pool Llyn Dulyn ; we 
 prefer, however, returning to Llanbedr by Cwm Nantcol, as 
 Dulyn belongs to another group of lakes which lie about one 
 mile nearer to Llanbedr than those near Cwm Nantcol. 
 
 Itlgnniatt Irbbjm, |l,abljm, ^nlgn. 
 
 The road to these lakes is along the old mountain horse-road to 
 Dolgelley, over the wild hills called Llaw Llech. These hills are 
 a continuation of the Rhinog group, and terminate at Barmouth. 
 The excursion from Llanbedr to these llyns is one of the most en- 
 joyable and interesting that this romantic country affords ; and in 
 fine breezy clear weather, the combined features of mountain, sea, 
 and lake are very fascinating. How elastic a man's spirits feel as 
 he bounds over these wild rocky moorland solitudes ! how the mind 
 expands in the contemplation of Nature's works ever the same, 
 " to-day, yesterday, for ever." The ground around you covered 
 with evidences of a byegone age the battle-field, the graves of the 
 dead, or the ruined cromlech, sacred to the rites of a crafty and 
 barbarous superstition. Below, the deep blue sea, "near enough 
 to look beautiful, but not to be heard," studded with white sails 
 as they plough their way towards the sparkling waters without ; 
 " the breezy blue aerial freedom of a whole sea sky, newly un- 
 curtained its mists not yet quite scattered," partially unveiling 
 
 E2
 
 52 DESCRIPTION OF LLTN IRDDYN CRAIG-Y-DDINAS. 
 
 a boundless horizon of restless ocean ; the ruined causeway * 
 submerged centuries ago, which the " wild waves " in their never- 
 dying rage and fury have for more than twelve hundred years 
 ceaselessly battered : its site visible by a long track of foam such 
 is a faint description of the scenic beauties which surround you on 
 your ramble to these solitary mountain tarns. 
 
 Fine pure mountain air is a certain cure for low spirits ; you 
 have only to hie to the " mountain's brow," and your spirits rise 
 like a barometer. It is really astonishing with what ease a man 
 in good health can traverse these mountain wastes, and accomplish 
 without fatigue, considerable distances in a day. We have walked 
 to the lakes we now propose to describe, fished in them, ascended 
 Crib y Rhiw, skirted the sides of Llether, descended to Ybi, 
 crossed over the precipitous ridge to Llyn Howel, and from 
 thence through Cwm Nantcol to Aber Artro and Llanbedr, with- 
 out feeling more than a pleasant fatigue. Upon reference to the 
 map this will be found a great distance to accomplish in a day, 
 particularly as a portion of the region you traverse is very rugged 
 elevated ground. 
 
 the " Priests' Lake," lies to the south of the road leading 
 to Dolgelley, which crosses a brook called Ysgethin, flowing 
 from Bodlyn. On leaving Llanbedr, the road winds round 
 Moelfre, the " Bald-hill," a visit to the summit of which 
 is worth making you then turn off to the right across some 
 large walled in " parks," the site of an ancient battle-field, at the 
 back of Cors-y-Gedol, and proceed towards the very interesting 
 British Post called Craig-y-Ddinas. The grounds in this locality 
 abound in circles, ancient barrows, remains of British houses, etc., 
 and afford a rich field to the archaeologist. The following brief 
 description of Irddyn, we extract from our diary : " Llyn Irddyn, 
 a long narrow llyn near the old road to Dolgelley, about one mile 
 and a half from Cors-y-Gedol, and about half an hour's walk 
 from Bodlyn. The fish are large and of good quality, but 
 generally shy. This lake is for the most part very shallow near 
 
 * Sara Badrig, or " Patrick's Causeway."
 
 ANCIENT BRITISH TOWN CRAIG- Y-DDINAS. 63 
 
 the shores, the stones along which are slippery and dangerous, 
 so that a boat is indispensable to insure good sport. The distance 
 from Llanbedr, is from four and a half to five miles." We were 
 informed by William Roberts, the guide and fisherman at Llanbedr 
 and a very useful, intelligent fellow he is, who can make a fly, 
 mend a rod, besides possessing many other qualifications that 
 the best plan to insure a good basket of fish at Irddyn, is to 
 proceed there over night, and "camp" out in a rude hut of stones 
 and heather which he had constructed. In the early morning, 
 before sunrise, proceed to fish. At this early hour the trout come 
 out of the deep water to feed on the shallows, and the " rise " is, 
 for a short time, very good. He once showed us a very fine 
 basket of fish he had procured by following this plan. We can 
 imagine, that in a fine warm summer's night, with good store of 
 " creature comforts," a bivouac of this sort would create a very 
 pleasurable excitement. The best sport we ever obtained at 
 Irddyn was about ten years ago, early in June. We killed 
 twenty-three trout, weighing in the gross eleven pounds six 
 ounces. Amongst these were two or three fine fish, of beautiful 
 colour, about three-quarters of a pound each, the average weight 
 being from six to eight ounces. The trout in Irddyu are 
 generally considered equal in quality to those from Ybi, and far 
 superior to any other lake in the district. 
 
 The scenery around Irddyn is very wild and dreary, although 
 not without a touch of the romantic. It lies immediately under 
 the long range of hills called Llaw Llech, in a direction north-east 
 to south-west. The remains of an ancient British town are clearly 
 discernible on the west shore, and the rocky eminence called 
 Craig-y-Ddinas, formed the citadel or fort. Some antiquaries 
 have pretended to point out "an inclosure, where the Druids 
 used to keep a store of fish," at the outlet of the lake ; but this, 
 in our opinion, is a mere fanciful conjecture. The llyn, however, 
 probably derived its name, " Priests' Lake," from some tradition 
 of this sort. Craig-y-Ddinas has not met from antiquaries the 
 attention it deserves. A few years ago, in company with au 
 ardent archaeologist, a man whose imagination had imbibed largely 
 from the visionary creations of Rowlands, Stukely, Borlase, 
 and others, we made a minute survey of this ancient fortified
 
 54 DESCRIPTION OP LLYN BODLYN LLYN DULYN. 
 
 stronghold, and in those remote times it was probably considered 
 almost impregnable. The remains of a " covered way " to the 
 summit of the rock may still be traced, with numerous Cyttiau. 
 Altogether, this is a very interesting specimen of an ancient 
 British fortress, and well deserves inspection. 
 From hence to 
 
 f Inn 0blp, 
 
 which lies in a north-east direction, about one mile and a half 
 higher up, under the romantic precipices of Diphwys. The 
 walk thither lies over a wet boggy turbary, where peat is cut 
 in summer. Bodlyn is a beautiful piece of water, about half 
 a mile from north to south, the stones of which under Diphwys 
 are of fine gravel, and afford pleasant walking. Further on, 
 large rocks and boulders fringe the shore, and the water is 
 deep close to the edge. This lake, on its south side, is forty-two 
 yards deep; it contains char, which are sometimes caught in 
 the winter with worm. The following description is from some 
 notes taken on the spot : " Llyn Bodlyn, a rather large pool, 
 well stocked with trout, perch, char, and eels, situate oil the 
 route to Dulyn. The trout in general rise freely, and are a very 
 pretty fish, but small. Small-sized perch are numerous in certain 
 parts of the lake. The water is beautifully clear." We have 
 paid many visits to this pool, and have generally been successful, 
 taking on some occasions from four to five dozen ; but these 
 trout are very capricious, and sometimes tantalize the angler by 
 making numerous " false rises," the little rascals evidently rising 
 in play. Bodlyn has always with us been a favourite lake, 
 although we cannot recommend it for any real sport. 
 
 flgtt |ulp 
 
 is a small pool, about one mile and a half further up in the 
 mountains, lying under Crib y Rhiw; which literally means 
 the summit, or head of the ascent. The situation is as wild 
 and sequestered as it is possible to conceive. The trout in 
 this pool are very handsome, and of good size, but rather shy ; 
 sometimes, however, you can manage to kill some if you happen
 
 SARN BADRIG HAZARDOUS EXPLOIT. 55 
 
 to bit upon the right day. The fish are very firm and of gocd 
 quality, quite equal to those taken in Irddyn. We once caught 
 a large trout here late in the evening, weighing one pound and a 
 half, with a fly called the " Coachman," which much resembles a 
 night-moth in appearance. Dulyn has been much injured of late 
 years by poaching with the net, and possibly with the " board." 
 The best weather for success on this lake, is a nice sunny warm 
 day; nothing can be done here when the weather is cold and 
 gloomy. Dulyn and Bodlyn are, we believe, the property of the 
 Crown. In the centre of the lake, a pretty rocky islet adds much 
 to its beauty ; indeed, we know of few more beautiful mountain 
 llyns than Dulyn. The distance to it from Llanbedr is about 
 eight miles, via Bodlyn ; there is another route on the east side 
 of Moelfre into Cwm Nantcol, which shortens the distance, but 
 the road is very rough and boggy. If you return by the Dolgelley 
 road, looking seaward, a fine view is to be obtained of Sarn Badrig, 
 " St. Patrick's, or the sea-breaking causeway," distinguished by 
 a long line of foam, caused by the sea breaking over the ancient 
 embankment, which is supposed to have been the sea wall con- 
 structed to prevent the sea from inundating the lowland country : 
 a catastrophe which actually took place about the year of our 
 Lord 500. The flat country called Cantref-y-Gwaelod was entirely 
 overwhelmed, and sixteen towns destroyed. The "Welsh Triads 
 contain an historical account of it ; it is therefore certain that a 
 great portion of Cardigan bay was once dry land, a sort of Welsh 
 Flanders. Sarn Badrig extends for nearly twenty miles,into the 
 bay, and is about twenty-four feet broad. Large ships have at 
 different times been totally wrecked upon it, accompanied with 
 loss of life. An enthusiastic young friend of ours a few years 
 ago went from Port Mochras in a small boat and landed on the 
 Sarn, although the sea was rather rough at the time. He managed 
 to effect a landing by swimming from the boat, and brought off 
 several shells and stones from the slippery summit of the wall ; 
 it was, however, a somewhat hazardous exploit. Sarn Badrig is 
 only partially dry for a short time at low ebb.
 
 56 SEWIN AND TROUT FISHING AT LLANBEDR. 
 
 We must not omit to notice a very delightful excursion to 
 Cwm Nantcol and the Drws Ardudwy. You can proceed 
 thither either by Gwynvrin and Aber Artro, where you cross 
 a bridge, or through woods near a slate-quarry on the banks 
 of the river. A fine waterfall is to be seen on the latter route, 
 embosomed in woods. After getting into the open country 
 which is intersected by stone walls, and numerous deep drains to 
 draw off the water from the turbary, where a great deal of peat 
 is cut in summer the vale is flat, and the river forms many 
 very deep "lanes" of water, which contain some large trout; 
 these, we need scarcely remark, are extremely shy. We have 
 caught seven or eight dozen of small fish in Cwm Nantcol after a 
 " fresh." The walking along the banks is then, however, very 
 wet and swampy ; and several of the cuts or drains running into 
 the river are wide and deep. The hill scenery, though naked, is 
 wild and romantic; and as you proceed towards the sources of 
 the river, several rapids and waterfalls add much to the general 
 effect of the landscape. The Pass of Drws Ardudwy divides the 
 mountains Rhinog Vawr and Yach, and leads into the wilds 
 between Dolgelley and Trawsfynydd. Steps, either artificial or 
 cut out of the native rocks, are seen here similar to those in Bwlch 
 Tyddiad, already described, and are assigned by tradition as the 
 work of the Romans. This was supposed to be, in ancient times, 
 a military road leading from Dolgelley to Harlech. This secluded 
 Pass is little known, and still less frequented by the stranger ; it 
 is not too much to affirm, however, that in wild beauty and sub- 
 limity it is one of the gems of Wales. Sewin cannot ascend into 
 Cwm Nantcol on account of the waterfall above Glyn Artro ; but 
 great numbers both of sewin and salmon find their way up the 
 Artro, and we have seen several spawning beds in that river, near 
 Llyn Cwm Bychan. The best time to fish for sewin at Llanbedr 
 is in August, but the banks of the river are so much inclosed 
 with trees, except near the sea, that few parts afford the fisher- 
 man room for a " cast." Some years ago, fine trout-fishing could 
 sometimes be obtained in the marshes towards Mochras. About 
 half a mile from Llanbedr is the old course of the river, leading
 
 CELTIC ANTIQUITIES CARNEDDAU HENGWM. 57 
 
 to the left across the marsh. In this water, which is still and 
 deep, were some large red trout; and, although shy, we 
 managed occasionally to catch some. We have taken trout out 
 of this water one pound and a half, many of three-quarters of 
 a pound and one pound weight. The difficulty is to land 
 them ; and, as many tall bulrushes line the banks, nothing can 
 be done without a landing-net. We have found a fly made 
 with a red hackle for wing, and a dark blue body ribbed with 
 gold twist, a very killing fly in the marsh. The Fernshaw and 
 Governor are also excellent. Be sure and use only one fly, on 
 account of the weeds and rushes. The trout in this water are 
 red as salmon, and of excellent quality, better than any lake 
 trout in the locality. 
 
 A very interesting excursion to Llyn Irddyn may be made by 
 way of Egrin Abbey. You proceed from Llanbedr for about four 
 miles on the road to Barmouth, and turn off to the left at Pen-y- 
 Bryn. A lane leads you to Hendre Cirian farm-house, and then 
 proceed up a wild dingle, destitute of wood, watered by Egrin 
 brook, to a well-defined British post, called Pen-y-Ddinas : this 
 camp can be seen from the Barmouth road. About half a mile 
 beyond, on some high ground to the right, are some extremely 
 interesting Druidical monuments, called Carneddau Hengwm, or 
 "the stone heaps of the old defile," supposed by some to be 
 sepulchral monuments to warriors or chieftains who fell in battle. 
 In 1847, during a stay of some weeks at Llanbedr, we visited 
 Carneddau Hengwm, and made several sketches of it. In our 
 note-book we find the following particulars : " Carneddau Hengwm 
 or Waun Cwm, near Cors-y-Gedol, is a remarkable Druidical 
 remain, consisting of cromlechs, cistvaen, and an immense col- 
 lection of stones piled together. One carnedd is sixty yards 
 long, and in it there is a singular chamber, quite perfect, with 
 stone benches and a chimney ! Altogether, it is one of the most 
 interesting relics of Druidism in the Principality. The horizontal 
 stone that rested on the cromlech at the south-east end of the 
 carnedd has been displaced, probably by the shepherds; other- 
 wise it is tolerably perfect." Llyn Irddyn is about one mile and 
 a half to the north-east of this spot, and is easily approached 
 from hence ; at the back of Cors-y-Gedol is another very interest- 
 ing Cromlech, in the cattle inclosures, which may be visited on
 
 58 CORS-Y-GEDOL BARONIAL HOSPITALITY. 
 
 your return to Llanbedr. We have thus indicated a few of the 
 principal antiquities in the vicinity of Harlech and Llanbedr; 
 but, as we have before stated, the whole country around is 
 strewed with circles, ancient British dwellings, cromlechs, and 
 carneddau, which will afford ample gratification and amusement 
 to the explorer. 
 
 From the account we have given of fishing at Llanbedr, our 
 readers will perceive that to get sport you must work hard. 
 None of the lakes are nearer than five miles ; some of them are 
 seven or eight, and the roads rough, rocky, and steep. It 
 is necessary, therefore, to start very early in the morning, not 
 later than seven o'clock, and as much earlier as possible. It 
 generally takes from two hours and a half to three hours and a 
 half to reach your fishing-ground; and every angler knows the 
 importance of being at the water-side early. To insure early 
 rising, you must get to bed in good time, avoiding late sittings at 
 night enjoyable as sportsmen's " nodes " usually are, in narrating 
 the incidents of " flood and field," which each day's ramble produces. 
 Many a good day's sport is spoiled from a non-observance of this 
 salutary practice. 
 
 There is one great advantage possessed by the angler in Wales, 
 and that is free permission to sport in the lakes and rivers. 
 There are, of course, exceptions ; but even where waters are pre- 
 served, there is, in general, very little difficulty in obtaining per- 
 mission. The lakes and streams around Harlech and Llanbedr 
 are all free ; some of them are Crown property, such as Dulyn, 
 Bodlyn, and all the Llyns near the summits of the mountains. 
 Llyn Irddyn belongs, or at least part of it, to the Cors-y-Gedol 
 estate, the property of the Hon. Edward Lloyd Mostyn. The 
 ancient manor-house of Cors-y-Gedol was built by Inigo Jones, 
 in 1594, and is well worth a visit. It lies about one mile from 
 the Barmouth road, nearly three miles and a half from Llanbedr. 
 The avenue to the house from the turnpike road is composed of 
 stately limes, and forms a beautiful approach. The gateway, also 
 ascribed to Inigo Jones, bears date 1630, on the shield over the 
 crown of the arch. A gallery of family portraits, a painting by 
 Wilson, and some curious antique furniture, are shown to the 
 visitor. In Pennant's time, baronial hospitality was dispensed 
 here with a liberal hand to all comers. He was treated and
 
 . CLIMATE HINTS TO SPORTSMEN. 59 
 
 lodged in the style of an " ancient baron " by the then possessor, 
 William Vaughan, Esq. 
 
 In concluding our notice of this very interesting locality, it 
 may be useful to the reader to point out the best routes to get to 
 it. From London and Birmingham, you must proceed to Shrews- 
 bury, thence to Llangolleii-road station : here you leave the 
 rail, and get upon a "well-appointed" four-horse coach to Dol- 
 gelley : distance forty-four miles. There is a coach to Caernarvon 
 daily from Dolgelley, during the summer, and this passes through 
 Llanbedr and Harlech. From Liverpool and Chester, you can 
 proceed to Llangollen-road station, through the vale of Gresford, 
 Rhuabon, &c.; or, if you prefer the round, you can go to Bangor 
 and Caernarvon, and from thence through Beddgelert and Tan-y- 
 Bwlch. The distance from Caernarvon to Harlech is thirty-eight 
 miles. Before we conclude, there are one or two other points 
 which deserve attention. The climate on the sea-coast of 
 Merioneth is mild and exceedingly healthy, but a great deal of 
 rain falls during the year, from its proximity to the sea. The 
 prevailing wind is the south-west, which generally brings rain 
 with it. We have known the weather at Llanbedr as fine in the 
 morning as could be desired, without the least appearance of 
 falling weather ; a shift of the wind at noon has rapidly altered 
 the state of affairs, and a downfall of the watery element has fol- 
 lowed, which, for severity, an Englishman has scarcely an idea of, 
 unless, as we have been, well used to it. It is, therefore, abso- 
 lutely necessary to provide for these sudden changes, for there is 
 little or no shelter to be found on the shores of the mountain 
 lakes. We should recommend a good Macintosh-cape, a pair of 
 waterproof leggings to reach to the hips, and a " sou'-wester " 
 cap to tie under the chin ; with these accoutrements you can 
 manage to keep tolerably dry, unless, as is sometimes the case, a 
 strong wind accompanies the pluvial deluge. Unless you wish to 
 become a good customer to the village cordwainer, you must also 
 supply yourself with two or three pairs of strong double upper- 
 leather shooting-boots, with " hob " nails on the soles, and a pair 
 of Cordiug's wading-boots : with these indispensable auxiliaries 
 you will be able to get on exceedingly well, in defiance of rain, 
 wind, and weather.
 
 60 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SCENERY. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS DESTRUCTION OP FISH POACHING 
 LAKES AND RIVERS IN CAERNARVONSHIRE FISHING STATIONS 
 BEDDGELERT SCENERY LLYN GWYNANT LLYN-Y-DDINAS 
 LLYN-Y-GADEE. 
 
 "Amidst the vast horizon's stretch, 
 In restless gaze, the eye of wonder darts 
 O'er the expanse ; mountains on mountains piled, 
 And winding bays, and promontories huge ; 
 Lakes, and meandering rivers, from their source 
 Traced to the distant ocean ; scattered isles, 
 Dark rising from the watery waste, and seas 
 Dividing kingdoms !" 
 
 IT is our intention in the present chapter to afford the most 
 accurate information derived from our own practice and obser- 
 vation of the angling to be met with in some parts of Caernar- 
 vonshire ; combining an occasional passing description of the 
 scenes of wild grandeur and beauty, some of them rarely visited, 
 into which we have been beguiled in pursuit of sport ; and also to 
 give such advice as to accommodation at inns or lodging-houses, 
 and expenses at such on a moderate scale, as we may deem useful 
 for the several localities we shall point out. It is to the lover of 
 natural beauty, to one who can " sit down to creation's table as 
 to a perpetual feast ;" where he can gaze upon " the abrupt cliff, 
 the sharp ridge, glens without verdure, and all the severer forms 
 of mountain scenery," that we would now address ourselves. 
 Here you can reverently stroll amongst the numerous relics of a 
 rude and dim age, or of early Christian piety, which lie scattered 
 over the land ; wander with your rod or staff into the wild 
 hollows or recesses of the " everlasting hills," and look up from 
 Nature in awe and admiration to "Nature's God." This is the 
 land for imagination to revel in, nor is it to be wondered at, that
 
 TRAVELLING IN WALES PAST AND PRESENT. 61 
 
 several of the most illustrious of the Welsh Bards drew their 
 lofty aspirations from the habitual contemplation of scenery so 
 sublime, so vast in its details ; and where in some quiet retreat 
 they " found more lessons in the woods and stones, than in 
 towns." Sir Walter Scott somewhere finely observes, that " the 
 seat of the Celtic muse is in the mist of the secret and solitary 
 hill, and her voice in the murmur of the mountain stream. He 
 who woos her, must love the barren rock more than the fertile 
 valley, and the solitude of the desert better than the festivity of 
 the hall." 
 
 " The partial opening of the iron road," observes the accurate 
 and intelligent author of the "Book of North Wales," "has 
 excited afresh an interest in that romantic country, which had 
 been gradually flagging since the peace." The opening of the 
 Chester and Holyhead railway has induced many hundreds of 
 tourists to wend their way into North Wales. In consequence 
 of this influx of visitors, vast strides in social improvement are 
 visible within the last ten or twelve years. Hotel and inn accom- 
 modation is now quite equal to the wants of the most fastidious 
 travellers, and the posting throughout the country generally is 
 excellent. In Warner's time, when he wrote his "Walks in 
 Wales," at the latter end of the last century, there was a dash 
 of romance in his excursions, and a zest and originality in his 
 graphic descriptions of the " troubles of travel," which cannot be 
 realized in this utilitarian age. There are, however, still to be 
 met with, swarms of pedestrian tourists in the autumnal months ; 
 who, knapsack on back, sturdily take the road, avoid the great 
 hotels, preferring the quiet old-fashioned inns, and who scorn to 
 take advantage of coach or rail. Fifty years ago, the inns gene- 
 rally were of the rudest sort ; there were few coaches ; in some 
 counties hardly a post-chaise could be procured ; the only means 
 of travelling was on horseback or on foot. The roads also were 
 in general execrable what Pennant describes as " most dreadful 
 horse-paths " in short, the romance of a tour in Wales now-a- 
 days, except to such as can " rough " it among the nooks and 
 byeways of the country, is nearly gone. 
 
 Within the last twenty or thirty years, commercial enterprise 
 has greatly interfered with the sport of the rod. In some of the
 
 62 DESTRUCTIVE EFFECTS OF MINES ON FISH. 
 
 best fishing localities of byegone days, trout, sewin, and salmon 
 have entirely disappeared from the rivers, and in some of the 
 finest lakes of Snowdonia, trout and char have almost ceased to 
 exist. Several causes have combined to produce this wholesale 
 destruction of fish. The most fertile source of evil, however, 
 has arisen from the quantity of poisonous metallic water from 
 the levels of the numerous lead and copper mines, and the drainage 
 from the extensive slate quarries. In proof of the destructive 
 effects of mineral water, we may instance the beautiful lakes of 
 Llanberis and Nant-y-Llef, fishing in which is now not worth 
 pursuing. Forty or fifty years ago these lakes were celebrated 
 for the quantity and excellence of their trout and char. At 
 Aberystwith, such is the havoc made in the various rivers of the 
 neighbourhood we may more especially mention the Hheidol 
 and Ystwith that the Aberystwith Fishing Club has for some 
 time ceased to exist, and the poor fishermen of the town complain 
 that no fish can be caught for several miles out at sea, in conse- 
 quence of the salt water being impregnated with the deleterious 
 matter from the numerous lead mines. There is, however, another 
 cause which has proved almost as great a scourge to the angler 
 as the evil effects produced from the mines : this is poaching. 
 The " otter " or " board " is extensively employed on the lakes, 
 and the rivers suffer from the spear or net. There is scarcely a 
 llyn, where the fish are of any value, that is not infested by men 
 chiefly miners pursuing their illegal calling. This nefarious 
 destruction of fish is also greatly encouraged by the ready sale 
 the poacher obtains at the numerous hotels and lodging-houses. 
 Indeed, we may mention one instance, where the landlord of one 
 of the principal Snowdonian hotels nets the lakes in his neigh- 
 bourhood once or twice a week ; such is the demand for trout 
 and sewin by the shoals of tourists which overrun the country. 
 If this state of affairs is allowed to continue through the careless- 
 ness or apathy of the great landed proprietors, in a few years 
 hence the sport of angling in Wales will belong to the past. We 
 put it to the hotel-keepers themselves, whether they are not 
 " killing the goose that lays the golden egg," by holding out such 
 inducement to poaching, as the purchase of salmon and trout 
 obtained from the rivers and lakes, where they profess to provide
 
 FISHING STATIONS IN CAERNARVONSHIRE. 63 
 
 sport for the gentlemen who frequent their houses during the 
 summer months for no other purpose than the amusement of 
 trout and salmon fishing ? 
 
 There are numerous lakes and rivers in Caernarvonshire. Some 
 of the llyns are of considerable size, and nearly all of them, half 
 a century ago, abounded in trout and eels. In some of the 
 largest^ very little, if any, sport as we have previously observed 
 
 can now be obtained. The number of lakes in the county 
 amounts to about fifty; the rivers several of which are excellent 
 
 are also numerous ; but there is only one of much importance, 
 the Conwy, which takes its rise in Llyn Convvy. The Ogwen, 
 Glaslyn, Llugwy, Gwyrfai, Machno, Lleder, Seiont, and Llyfni, 
 are amongst the other principal streams in the county. In some 
 of these, fair trout-fishing may be had early in the year. There 
 are several fishing stations ; the best of which are Beddgelert, 
 " Snowdon Ranger" hotel, on the banks of Llyn Cwellyn, 
 Llanrwst, Bettws-y-Coed, on the river Llugwy a good station 
 Trefriw, a small village on the Conwy, Capel Curig, and Pen-y- 
 Gwryd. Penmachno, on the river Machno, contains, we believe, 
 a small inn, where tolerable acommodation may be obtained. It 
 has the advantage of being within four miles of Llyn Conwy, and 
 also possesses one or two experienced fishermen. Llyn Conwy is 
 a fine pool, where sometimes there is excellent sport. Bettws- 
 y-Coed possesses a very comfortable inn, and is a favourite resort 
 of artists. The late David Cox, one of the most eminent water- 
 colour painters which England has produced, passed much of his 
 time here during the summer. 
 
 The romantic village of Beddgelert is a favourite haunt of 
 anglers and artists during the summer months. It is on the 
 high road from Caernarvon to Tan-y-Bwlch and Dolgelley; 
 distant from the former thirteen miles. There is a railroad now 
 from Bangor to Caernarvon, so that you may travel from London 
 to Beddgelert in a day. During the height of " the season," the 
 lodging-houses in the village are generally quite full; and the 
 " Goat " Hotel, decidedly one of the best in the Principality,
 
 64 BEDDGELERT MOEL HEBOG LAKE PISHING. 
 
 both for comfort and beauty of situation, has frequently all the 
 beds engaged. 
 
 The situation of Beddgelert is charming in the extreme. 
 Placed at the confluence of the rapid rivers Colwyn and Glaslyn 
 the waters of which chiefly derive their source from Snowdon 
 it is sheltered from the north by some precipitous crags, which 
 form a continuation of the southern arm of the mighty "hill 
 king," the lofty peak Yr Aran. To the south some verdant 
 meadows, watered by the sister streams rushing in their impetuous 
 course through the celebrated Pass of Beddgelert which for 
 colour, especially in autumn, is without a rival in Wales form a 
 scene of quiet delicious repose, and breathe an air of tranquillity, 
 which soothes and elevates the mind. The Bwlch at Pont 
 Aberglaslyn is certainly the finest scene of its kind, the most 
 perfect realization of a mountain Pass to be found in Wales. In 
 grandeur, in beauty of detail, nothing can surpass or equal it; 
 not merely on a similar, but even on a larger scale. Then the 
 scenery beyond ! Language is inadequate to do it justice ; well 
 might it be said to " exceed the power of description." 
 
 Beddgelert, as a delightful summer retreat, is deservedly ap- 
 preciated by tourists ; to our taste, it is decidedly the gem of the 
 Principality. Moel Hebog, " the hill of the Hawk," towering to 
 the height of 2,580 feet over the west side of the village, is best 
 seen from the lower end of Llyn-y-Ddinas. The view from the 
 summit in favourable weather is superb, and very extensive, but 
 the ascent is difficult. 
 
 The best months for lake-fishing are May, June, and part of 
 July. Some sport may occasionally be obtained later in the year, 
 by anglers who are " up to the mark," and know the lakes well ; 
 but after many years' experience we have found lake-fishing in 
 Wales of little account after the period we have specified. 
 After all, even at the most favourable time, success is only to be 
 obtained by a knowledge of the water you fish in, and by the use 
 of the proper flies. We well remember, whilst fishing in Llyn 
 Ogwen some years ago, in company with a most accomplished 
 angler, we observed an old gentleman in wading boots, diligently 
 fishing from shore, without apparently raising a single fish, whilst 
 in a boat we were obtaining excellent sport. It was not from
 
 INNS AND LODGING-HOUSES AT BEDDGELERT. 65 
 
 want of ability in the manipulation of his rod that his want of 
 success lay, but as we afterwards learned from the use of 
 Scotch flies ! Many professed anglers come into Wales pro- 
 foundly ignorant in that most important branch of the art, viz. 
 the right flies. They fancy they have only to buy a rod and 
 basket, and a lot of flies of all sizes and colours, from a London 
 tackle-maker, and success must follow supposing that trout will 
 rise to anything they throw upon the water. They, however, find 
 themselves egregiously mistaken. We have met with numbers of 
 such " muffs." Many, again, cannot even throw a fly, and instead 
 of alluring the wily trout, scare them away. Again, lake and river- 
 fishing are quite distinct branches of the art, and require a very 
 different manipulation of the rod. Fortunately for the sportsman, 
 Beddgelert possesses two most excellent fishermen and guides, of 
 the name of Jones, father and son, who not only make very neat 
 flies, but are able to conduct you to the best fishing in the neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 Before we proceed to give some account of angling at Bedd- 
 gelert, let us pause for a moment to say a few words as to the 
 accommodation afforded at the " Goat Hotel," and the various 
 lodging-houses in the village, with a hint or two as to the daily 
 and weekly expenses. Nor must we omit to say a good word 
 for the " Prince Llewellyn " inn, near the bridge; which, although 
 old-fashioned, is comfortable, and where you meet with attention 
 and civility. It is just the inn for an angler or artist, and less 
 expensive. The charges at the " Goat Hotel " are, however, 
 moderate, considering its excellent accommodation and attention 
 to the cuisine. A magnificent coffee-room has recently been 
 erected, very handsomely furnished, in fact, the finest apartment 
 of the sort in the Principality. You can live well, including all 
 expenses, for fourteen or fifteen shillings per day. We, however, 
 strongly recommend private lodgings as far preferable to an inn. 
 There is more comfort and privacy, and it is infinitely cheaper. 
 Comfortable apartments may be obtained, consisting of parlour 
 and bed-room, at from twenty to twenty-five shillings per week ; 
 with board, at about twelve shillings extra. 
 
 There are three lakes within a moderate distance of Beddgelert, 
 of easy approach; two of them, Llyn-y-Ddinas and Llyn Gwynant, 
 
 P
 
 66 EXPENSES OP ANGLING AT BEDDGELERT. 
 
 are on the road to Capel Curig and Llanberis ; Llyn-y-Gader lies 
 about a furlong from the road leading from Beddgelert to Caer- 
 narvon. During the summer of 1857, there was a boat belonging 
 to the " Goat Hotel," on Llyn Gwynant, and another small boat 
 on Llyn Gader ; and now, we believe, a boat has been placed on 
 Llyn-y-Ddinas. Without a boat, it is quite useless to attempt 
 fishing these pools. The charge for a guide and boatman is five 
 shillings per day ; you cannot obtain the use of the boat without 
 one, unless you are staying at the hotel ; and, as the majority of 
 anglers who resort to Llyn Gwynant, a distance of about four 
 miles, are too lazy to walk, it involves the cost of a car and 
 driver, about six or seven shillings extra. This is paying rather 
 high for the chance of a day's sport. Indeed, angling at Beddge- 
 lert is expensive; neither is the sport commensurate with the 
 expense. There is another way of getting a day's fishing on 
 Gwynant at a much cheaper rate. Walk there early in the 
 morning the scenery on the road is exceedingly beautiful and 
 romantic and engage a boat belonging to a farmer, who lives 
 near the end of the lake, which you can obtain at two shillings 
 and sixpence per day. If two or three gentlemen club together, 
 and can manage a boat, this will reduce the expense to a very 
 reasonable amount. 
 
 is a lake of surpassing beauty scarcely equalled by any other 
 scene in Snowdonia. It fills up the bottom of a lovely valley, called 
 in Welsh, Gwynant, which signifies " the Vale of Waters." At the 
 lower extremity, its shores are fringed with thriving woods, and 
 adorned with two pretty villa residences belonging to Messrs. 
 Vaudrey and Wyatt. The lake is nearly a mile long, and towards 
 the middle is about one-third of a mile broad. Its principal feeder 
 is the Avon Las, which takes its rise in Llyn Ffynnon Las, a small 
 pool in a hollow high up Snowdon ; and after passing through the 
 lonely Llyn Llydaw, a fine lake about one mile and a half long, it 
 dashes through Cwm Dyli, and falling over a series of lofty cata- 
 racts, called Rhaiadr Cwm Dyli, descends into Nant Gwynant. You 
 cannot see, but imagination will picture, the large sullen Llyn,
 
 LLYN GWYNANT TROUT NETTING. 67 
 
 sheltered by the lofty storm-riven precipices of Y-Wyddfa on 
 your left a lake dear to the lover of nature in her dreariest 
 aspect whence, as it were, " by the slightest fracture in the rim 
 of its rocky basin, it sends forth this little stream (Avon Las) to 
 gladden the 'Vale of Waters' beneath with the freshest of 
 verdure," before its waters turbulent and brawling through the 
 Pass of Beddgelert smoothly expand in the Traeth Mawr, on 
 their onward march to the sea. Except in one part, where the 
 lake washes the precipitous base of Y-Lliwed the third peak in 
 height after the main summit of Snowdon the water is shallow, 
 with a grassy weedy bottom, resembling in this respect the lake 
 of Tal-y-Llyn. In the early portion of the season, the trout in 
 this pool " rise " freely, and are exceedingly strong and gamesome ; 
 the larger fish of half or three-quarters of a pound affording ex- 
 cellent sport. There are two varieties of trout in the lake ; the 
 bright yellow variety, which are chiefly taken in the shallows at 
 the lower end, are very beautiful when first taken out of the 
 water, and, when cooked, cut quite red. The other species is of 
 darker colour, with white belly, and is of very inferior quality to 
 the yellow sort. The habitat of these is chiefly at the upper 
 portion of the pool. Some twelve or fourteen years ago, the 
 sport on Llyn Gwynant was exceedingly good. We remember in 
 the month of June, 1846, catching a large basket of trout, many 
 of them from half to three-quarters of a pound, on a bright hot 
 day, with a very slack inconstant breeze. Since then the sport 
 has much declined, in consequence of the immense number of 
 trout of all sizes being taken out with the net. The fact is, the 
 right of fishing belongs to several proprietors; and, until some 
 general understanding is come to as to the preservation of the 
 fish, this fine lake will soon cease to afford any great attraction 
 to the angler. The landlord of the hotel at Capel Curig, who 
 rents under the Hon. Colonel Douglas Pennant, M.P., has the 
 right of fishing at the north-east upper end of the lake, and he 
 makes good use of the privilege by netting the pool at least once 
 a week during the summer months. In the year 1857, during a 
 series of visits to Llyn Gwynant, we frequently saw the net at 
 work ; and we were informed by our boatman that from twelve 
 to twenty dozen of trout were frequently taken in a day, of all 
 
 F2
 
 68 SPOHT ON LLYN GWYNANT INDIFFERENT SUCCESS. 
 
 sizes. In consequence of this wholesale slaughter, it is not to be 
 expected that angling can be so good as formerly. Some years 
 ago, Llyn Gwynant suffered from netting in a still greater degree 
 to what it does at present : at that time there were no less than 
 three nets at work ; one from the " Goat Hotel," Beddgelert ; the 
 one already mentioned from Capel Curig ; and a large seine-net, 
 constructed on purpose by a gentleman who then resided at Plas 
 Gwynant, a pretty villa in the immediate vicinity. We have been 
 credibly informed however monstrous the statement may appear 
 that from this net alone, during a single season, 15,000 dozen 
 of trout were taken out of the lake ! 
 
 The general size of the trout we caught in Llyn Gwynant in 
 1857, was about three to the pound; a few of the largest weighed 
 eight, nine, and ten ounces. In former years the average was 
 much larger. There are still a few very fine trout occasionally 
 captured. John Jones, senior, fisherman at Beddgelert, caught 
 a trout with the fly which weighed four pounds, about four years 
 ago. The best season of the year to fish the lake is from the 
 middle of May to the end of June ; when, on a favourable day, in 
 May, you may sometimes take from three to four dozen. The 
 best part of the lake is the south or lower end, where the water 
 is shallow ; in the middle, where it is very deep, few fish " rise," 
 but when they do they are generally large. Some good fishing is 
 also occasionally obtained in the shallows at the north-west end, 
 or head of the Llyn, where the Avon Las flows into it ; we, how- 
 ever, met with very indifferent success in the summer of 1857, 
 partly owing to the best season being over before we commenced, 
 and partly to the intense heat and atmospheric influence, which 
 rendered it one of the worst fishing seasons, at least in Wales, 
 ever known. The largest number of trout we caught occurred on 
 our first visit, the 20th of June; we killed twenty-five, one or 
 two of which weighed half a pound. After that the weather 
 became exceedingly hot and bright, so that our best day's sport 
 never exceeded eighteen or twenty, and frequently not half that 
 number. The best time for fishing is almost always in the 
 forenoon, from eight or nine to eleven o'clock, and again from 
 two until four. The evening "rise" is very uncertain, as it 
 generally is in most Welsh lakes. The favourite fly is undoubtedly
 
 NANT GWYNANT EXQUISITE SCENERY. 69 
 
 the " pea-hen," sometimes called the Llyn Gwynant fly, in May, 
 June, and July; the alder, red-spinner, Shaw's governor, and 
 fernshaw, are also excellent flies. There are several boats on the 
 pool, three of which belong to proprietors in the vicinity; and 
 Henry Owen, the enterprising landlord of the comfortable inn at 
 Pen-y-Gwryd, has recently put a very good boat on the lake, for 
 the convenience of gentlemen frequenting his inn. Salmon, of 
 from six to eight pounds, are occasionally taken with the angle, 
 chiefly at the upper end of the lake, and afford excellent diversion 
 from the boat ; indeed, the pool would swarm with salmon, were 
 it not for the poaching in the river at Beddgelert. 
 
 The view of Nant Gwynant, with the limpid waters of the 
 Avon Las expanded into a lovely lake, about three miles from 
 Pen-y-Gwryd, on the road to Beddgelert, is one of the most 
 enchanting scenes in Snowdonia. There the grandest view of 
 Snowdon is to be obtained : under a proper light, it is one of the 
 sublimest scenes in Britain, and far surpasses the view from the 
 Nantllef lakes, Llyn Cwellyn, or from any other point. On a 
 fine summer's evening, the sun shedding a flood of radiance over 
 the flashing waters of the lake below, or, later still, lighting 
 up the lofty peaks of Snowdon, the general colouring of the sur- 
 rounding mountains glowing with a rich ruddy hue, it will bear 
 honourable comparison with any alpine scene in the British 
 islands. Startling, however, is the contrast in stormy weather. 
 The lightning's lurid flash the thunder booming like successive 
 discharges of heavy artillery amongst the mountains around the 
 dark mysterious hollows of Snowdon, ever and anon lit up with 
 magical, awe-inspiring glimpses, rendered still more terrible by 
 the Spirit of the Storm the elemental strife and uproar, assisted 
 by rain and hail descending with a force and fury rarely seen in 
 lowland countries; these manifestations of the power of Him 
 who " created all things," kindle in the heart feelings of profound 
 reverence for that Almighty Being, in whose hands we are, who 
 alone can curb the stormy winds, and say, " Peace, be still ! "
 
 70 LLYN-Y-DDINAS - CWM LLAN. 
 
 the "Lake of the Fortress." Angling in this lake is very 
 
 inferior to Llyn Gwynant. There was no boat on it iu 1857, 
 
 and, therefore, we had no opportunity of examining it much; 
 
 but we were informed that the best sport was to be obtained 
 
 in the spring, when, from a boat, twelve to twenty pounds 
 
 of trout might occasionally be taken ; but, as a general rule, the 
 
 fish are neither so large nor so " free " as in the sister lake. We 
 
 several times attempted to fish this pool from shore without any 
 
 success : it is strange that the trout should be so shy, as the 
 
 water is from the same source; the breed is similar: the only 
 
 way to account for it is that possibly the bottom affords more 
 
 food to the fish. At the latter end of July, and during August 
 
 and September, some fine salmon fishing may, at times, be ob- 
 
 tained upon this pool after a flood. The best place for the angler 
 
 is at the upper end, where the Avon Las enters the lake. Several 
 
 fine salmon, from eight to ten pounds, were caught in the pool 
 
 during the summer of 1857. This llyn is generally rather 
 
 shallow, and is nearly one mile in length, with an average 
 
 breadth of from a quarter to one-third of a mile. The turnpike- 
 
 road to Capel Curig and Llanberis runs along the west shore, 
 
 and in winter, when the lake is high, must occasionally overflow 
 
 the road. Llyn-y-Ddinas affords some fine picturesque effects 
 
 for the artist, and, for general scenic beauty, is superior to any 
 
 lake in the district, with the exception of Llyn Gwynant. Between 
 
 the lakes on the left of the road leading to Capel Curig, is one of 
 
 the finest Gorges in Snowdonia, CWM LLAN, the " hollow of the 
 
 Church." In fine clear weather, the eye rests upon the highest 
 
 peak of Snowdon, Moel-y-Wyddfa, "the bold head of the con- 
 
 spicuous summit." In the foreground, the murmuring crystal 
 
 waters of the Avon Las, the varied tints of the frondage, the 
 
 lower rock precipices, beautifully adorned with ivy and other 
 
 parasitical plants, render the colouring, " the harmony of Nature," 
 
 truly exquisite. We have "sat on rock, and mused o'er flood 
 
 and fell," for hours on a calm summer's day, without being 
 
 weary of gazing on the varied beauties of this magnificent cwm.
 
 LLYN-Y-GADER ABUNDANCE OF TROUT SPORT. 71 
 
 There are, indeed, few spots in the Principality where the 
 beauties and sublimities of Nature are more admirably blended 
 than on the road from Pen-y-Gwryd to Beddgelert, a distance of 
 eight miles. 
 
 the "Pool of the Chair," is a small mere, surrounded by a 
 dreary bare morass, about three miles and a quarter from Bedd- 
 gelert on the Caernarvon road. You follow the road, which 
 is a continuous ascent for more than two miles, passing on 
 your way Llam-y-Trwscol, " Trwscol's leap," to which a legend 
 appends until you arrive at a remarkable rock, on the left of 
 the road, called " Pitt's Head," so named from its fancied resem- 
 blance to the profile of that celebrated statesman. About three- 
 quarters of a mile beyond lie the waters of Llyn-y-Gader. On 
 arriving opposite to the pool, you cross some swampy meadow 
 land until you reach a rocky hummock which runs into the water ; 
 under the east side of which, in a small shallow creek, yon will 
 find the boat that belongs to the " Goat Hotel." 
 
 The trout in this lake are generally very free, and on a favour- 
 able day in May, from seven to eight dozen may be taken by a 
 practised hand. The trout are small, the average size being a 
 quarter of a pound ; the quality is very indifferent. There 
 are, however, large trout in the lake ; one of three pounds was 
 caught in the summer of 1856, by a young man from Beddgelert. 
 During a series of visits we paid to this water, we occasionally 
 took some trout of half a pound and upwards ; and what was very 
 remarkable, we, on one occasion, caught a few samlets,, which 
 were beautifully bright. How they got into the lake is a mystery, 
 as salmon are never caught above the waterfall at Nant Mill, and 
 therefore cannot find their way into the brook that runs from 
 Llyn-y-Gader to Llyn Cwellyn. On referring to our notes, we 
 find that the best sport we had on Llyn-y-Gader in 1857, occurred 
 on the llth and 13th July. On the first occasion we killed forty- 
 five, on the subsequent day fifty; the weight of fish for both days 
 somewhat exceeded eighteen pounds. The weather afterwards 
 became very bright and hot, and so far as we know, the sport for 
 the remainder of the season was at an end. The flies we used
 
 72 DESCRIPTION OP LLYN-T-GADER SCENERY. 
 
 were similar to those at Llyn Gwynant. The pea-hen was gene- 
 rally the favourite fly, but we also found the cinnamon and Shaw's 
 governor, dressed on rather smaller hooks, on some days in great 
 request. The best time to fish is from nine o'clock A. M. until 
 four P. M., but the trout will sometimes rise freely until after 
 sunset. There is only one small boat on the pool, which belongs 
 to the " Goat Hotel." Some years ago, this lake was " all the 
 rage" with visitors at the "Goat;" in 3857, its popularity ap- 
 peared to have declined, as very few fished this water besides 
 ourselves. Llyn-y-Gader, although it looks deep in places, owing 
 to the dark peaty bed on which it lies, is not so in reality. In 
 several parts it is so exceedingly shallow, that in dry weather, 
 when the water is low, it will hardly float a boat at some distance 
 from the shore. The greatest depth is about eight yards, and 
 this occurs near some large stones, called " The Islands," which 
 peer above the water for a few feet when the lake is low, near 
 the shore on the west side, and form a convenient resting-place 
 for the black cormorants, which are frequently to be seen here. 
 Llyn-y-Gader is abundantly stocked with fish ; and notwithstand- 
 ing the large quantity that is annually taken with the rod, and 
 the injury it receives from the " board " and net, there appears 
 to be no perceptible diminution of the finny tribe. From our 
 own observation, we believe that no lake of similar size in the 
 district is so full of trout. You cannot fish from shore, partly 
 from the swampy nature of the ground, and also from the weeds, 
 bulrushes, and shoal water. A boat is therefore indispensable, 
 and this involves an expense of five shillings per day at least ; if 
 you ride, the charge is more than doubled. The expense incurred 
 in fishing this pool, has probably been one cause why it is now 
 comparatively deserted. The most favourable fishing-ground, for 
 large trout especially, is near the "islands," and along the west 
 and north shores, near some bulrushes which fringe the margin. 
 For general sport, across the middle of the pool; and occasionally 
 some fish may be taken in the shallow weedy water on the south 
 side. The shores of the llyn, with the exception of a picturesque 
 rock at the south-east corner, are perfectly destitute of the 
 slightest protection from the weather ; it is therefore advisable 
 to provide yourself with waterproof garments, in the event of
 
 IMPOSING LANDSCAPE. 73 
 
 being obliged to brave the elements, as very Leavy showers fre- 
 quently occur in this bleak mountainous district, accompanied at 
 times with violent gusts of wind. 
 
 The surrounding landscape is very imposing : Snowdon and his 
 attendant Alps, loom up grandly to the east, whilst to the west 
 and north-west, the eye wanders towards the summit of Mynydd 
 Mawr (2,300 feet) with its finely curved outline, beneath which 
 Drws-y-Coed, " the door of the wood," forms the entrance of the 
 romantic Pass to the Llynniau Nantllef. On the south, Moel 
 Hebog, and the hills around Beddgelert, form a magnificent back- 
 ground to the picture ; and more immediately in the foreground, 
 the vast mountain buttresses of Snowdon, " the outworks of the 
 interior region of lakes and hills," soaring high above the naked 
 valley at their feet, are seen to great advantage. At sunset, on 
 a bright calm summer's eve, the surrounding panorama is truly 
 exquisite.
 
 74 SNOWDONIA CWM CLOGWYN ITS SOLITUDE. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 A PEEP INTO SNOWDONIA CWM CLOGWYN A VISIT TO LLYNNIAU 
 FFYNNON GWAS, COCH, FFYNNON LAS, Y-NADROED SCENERY 
 EXCURSION TO LLYN LLAGI, LLYN-YR-ADAR, LLYN EDNO BLACK- 
 BACKED GULLS LLYNNIAU CWN MONSTER TROUT EXCURSION 
 TO LLYN EDNO IN 1849 EDNO TROUT ACCIDENTS IN LLYN 
 LLAGI DANGER OF CORACLES YSTRADLLYN. 
 
 " Such beauty, varying in the light 
 Of living nature, cannot be portrayed 
 By words, nor by the pencil's silent skill ; 
 But is the property of Him alone 
 Who hath beheld it, noted it with care, 
 And in his mind recorded it with love." 
 
 Jfgraum (Sfams, <f 0r|r, Jffmmott 
 
 ON the west side of Snowdon there is a profound cwm or hollow, 
 called Cwm Clogwyn, or the " hollow of the precipice ;" this 
 lonely spot lies immediately under the awful steeps of Moel-y- 
 Wyddfa. In this " great hill solitude " there are four small llyns, 
 which lie contiguous to each other, called Ffynnon Gwas, Llyn 
 Coch, Efynnon Las, and Y-Nadroed, severally signifying the 
 "Servants'," the "Red," the "Blue," and the "Adder's" pools. 
 These are very rarely visited by the angler, or even by the most 
 adventurous tourist. The best way to approach these lakes, is 
 to leave the turnpike road, near the " Pitt's Head," which the 
 guides usually do in conducting visitors to the summit of Snow- 
 don, and following the path for about one mile, make round the 
 shoulder of Clawdd Coch, the " Red Ridge," and proceed over 
 some rough broken ground, intersected by dry stone walls, and 
 occasionally turbaries, some of them difficult to cross, until you 
 reach Llyn Pfynnon Gwas, the most northerly of the group, and 
 the only pool worth trying for the sake of sport. We visited
 
 EXCURSION TO CWM CLOGWYN FFYNNON GWA8. 75 
 
 these lakes once, and as we were amply repaid for the fatigue we 
 endured in reaching them, we will give an account of our excur- 
 sion, which occupied more than twelve hours. 
 
 It was on a fine morning in July, 1857, that we started from 
 Beddgelert early, accompanied by our guide and fisherman, to 
 visit these wild sequestered lakes. We went more for the sake 
 of exploration and adventure than with the expectation of sport. 
 The guide was nearly as ignorant as ourselves as to the exact 
 locality of the lakes ; but, being provided with the Ordnance Map 
 without which no man need travel among the byeways of 
 Wales we had not much difficulty in piloting ourselves to Llyn 
 Efynnon Gwas ; the pool furthest from Beddgelert, and lying lower 
 down the mountain, and rather apart from the others. We had 
 both of us frequently seen these llyns from the summit of Clawdd 
 Coch, on the ascent to Snowdon, but until we arrived at the 
 locality, we were not aware of the extreme ruggedness of the 
 wild country we had to traverse, or the distance these lakes were 
 from the road. 
 
 On reaching our fishing-ground, after about four hours' toil, 
 we found the waters of Llyn Ffynnon Gwas violently agitated 
 with a furious north-west wind, which prevented any attempt to 
 angle until we got under the lee; it was besides exceedingly 
 cold, and we were glad to envelope ourselves in a waterproof cape 
 to keep warm. After refreshing " the inward man," we com- 
 menced fishing, but for some time we were in doubt whether 
 there were any fish in the llyn, as we could neither see a fish stir 
 nor obtain a " rise." The water appeared profoundly deep close 
 to the shore, and was of a dark, leaden hue ; partly arising from 
 the boggy nature of the land from whence the lake derives its 
 supply, and also from the heavy masses of clouds which were 
 rapidly drifting over us. This llyn is said to derive its name, 
 " Ffynnon Gwas," which literally signifies the " Servants' well, or 
 spring," from a melancholy circumstance which occurred here 
 many years ago. A poor man, a shepherd or servant to a neigh- 
 bouring farmer, was washing sheep in the lake, and by some 
 means or other got out of his depth and was drowned. The 
 lake ever after was called the " Servants' pool." After fishing 
 for half an hour, the sun came out, and as we had by that time
 
 76 WILD SCENERY FEARFUL ACCIDENT. 
 
 gained some shelter from the wind, we were at last favoured 
 with a "rise," and, after a short struggle, landed a trout of half a 
 pound. Thus encouraged, we continued fishing as well as the 
 wind would permit, until we returned to our starting point, and 
 by that time we had caught about thirteen of the most ugly trout 
 chiefly very small we had ever taken in any part of Wales. 
 They were also exceedingly lean, showing that the feed in the 
 lake was scarce. This circumstance is not uncommon in some of 
 the llyns which lie high up in the mountains. The fish generally 
 rose "short," and although we occasionally stirred some appa- 
 rently large fish, yet it was evident they were not "in the humour:" 
 the more surprising, considering their lank hungry appearance. 
 
 The scenery here is exceedingly wild and impressive. On a 
 calm day when profound stillness reigns, unbroken even by the 
 slightest sound this "dark, melancholy" llyn, gleaming in the 
 midst of a trackless waste, backed by the " stony ruins " of the 
 vast mountain above it ; the stillness broken perchance, after an 
 interval, by the ominous croak of the solitary raven, or the low 
 and hollow whisperings of the mysterious wind ; the dark-brown 
 of the surrounding peat morass the leading feature in these 
 shelterless and lofty wilds these accessories, if anything addi- 
 tional was wanting, must add to the sublimity of this fine scene. 
 
 Llyn Ffynnon Gwas lies in a hollow, above which the route to 
 Snowdon from Llyn Cwellyn winds its way, with a deviation to 
 the left under the nearly perpendicular precipices of Clogwyn 
 Du-Yr-Arddu, and then turning into the path through Bwlch 
 Cwm Brwynog, which conducts you down to the magnificent 
 Pass of Llanberis. It was in this immediate vicinity that the 
 Rev. Mr. Starr was killed, in 1846. The unfortunate gentleman, 
 in spite of the warnings of the guide, imprudently ventured upon 
 the mountains alone, got enveloped in the mist, lost his path, 
 became bewildered, and fell headlong over some precipices near 
 Clogwyn Du-Yr-Arddu. His mangled remains, torn to pieces by 
 wild cats, were not discovered until the spring of 1847. 
 
 Having thus presented to the reader the results of our visit to 
 Llyn Ffynnon Gwas, let us now conduct him to Llyn Coch. At 
 three o'clock P. M., we accordingly proceeded on our way thither. 
 This very small tarn is scarcely more than half a mile off, but the
 
 FPTNNON LAS LLYN COCH LLYN-Y-NADROBD. 77 
 
 ground is so steep and broken that it cost us at least half an 
 hour's toil to reach it. On our way we occasionally followed the 
 course of the turbulent stream which issues from it, and on 
 which are several pleasing waterfalls. After a heavy downfall of 
 rain, the view of these falls must be very grand. 
 
 " Here balmy air, and springs as ether clear 
 Delight the eye, reanimate the heart." 
 
 The surplus water from the four pools falls into the stream 
 which runs from Llyn-y-Gader to Llyn Cwellyn. Llyn Coch, the 
 " Red pool," is the most shallow llyn we ever met with, and in 
 dimension does not exceed a moderate sized pond. It appeared 
 to us nearly, if not quite, destitute of fish ; although we had been 
 informed in several quarters that good sport and fine fish were 
 occasionally obtained. We, however, afterwards learned, that 
 shortly before our visit a net had been dragged through it, and 
 doubtless nearly all the fish taken out. The pool does not exceed 
 two or three feet in depth even in the centre, and, as the bottom 
 is composed of mud, and tolerably free of stones or weeds, it is 
 just the place for a net. After a few fruitless casts, we wended 
 our way to Ffynnon Las, the " Blue pool," which lies immediately 
 under the awful steeps of Snowdon. This tarn is even smaller 
 than the former, but the water shelves down to apparently a 
 great depth, and is of a pure azure green colour ; hence, we pre- 
 sume, its name. Good trout are said to be occasionally taken 
 here, and it probably supplies Llyn Coch. We could not, how- 
 ever, stir a fish ; we suppose, as Captain Medwin says, " from the 
 difficulty of extracting or luring them from their crystal retreats." 
 Having with some difficulty crossed the rivulet which flows from 
 Llyn Coch, we ascended a sharp acclivity until we arrived at 
 Llyn-y-Nadroed, the "Adder's pool;" why so called, we could 
 not learn. This is a small, dark, sullen piece of water, bounded 
 on the south by steep rocks, with deep water close to their base, 
 and the shore generally is very rough. There was such a nice 
 ripple on the water that we were tempted to try a few casts ; but 
 we might have spared ourselves the trouble, for not a living 
 creature exists in the llyn. This is caused probably from the 
 existence of some mineral poison, probably copper, which abounds
 
 78 LLYN LLAGI LLYN-YR-ADAR LLYN EDNO. 
 
 in Snowdon. Here we sat on a rock to refresh ourselves, after a 
 somewhat severe toil of several Lours, and contemplated withi 
 delight the sublime scene of rugged grandeur around, and it was 
 fully an hour ere we could tear ourselves away from this " pro- 
 found, vast, and lonely mountain hollow." The sun, however, 
 began to wax low on the horizon, and warned us to depart, as 
 the country we had to traverse on our homeward route was 
 exceedingly broken. We therefore reluctantly bade farewell to 
 this region of " solemn desolation," so little known, but so well 
 worth the investigation of the admirer of nature. Thus we suc- 
 cessfully accomplished our exploration of Cwm Clogwyn. 
 
 ia JTIgn itlHgi, ITIgit-gr-^bar, ITIgn <Sbno, *le. 
 
 The several routes to these lakes neither of which are of con- 
 siderable size are some of the most interesting, as well as the 
 most arduous to be met with in the vicinity of Beddgelert. These 
 llyns are very rarely visited by anglers ; but to such as can brave 
 the fatigue, they amply repay the labour of the ascent to them, 
 although the sport is most uncertain; but the grand scenic effects 
 from the summits of the mountains around, it is hardly possible 
 to overrate. We include our account of these llyns in the 
 Beddgelert district, because, although they are situate in the 
 adjoining county of Merioneth, yet they lie at a more convenient 
 distance from Beddgelert than any fishing station in that county, 
 the village being on the very verge of Caernarvonshire. 
 
 There are at least three ways of reaching Llyn Edno, decidedly 
 the best pool of the series. The .easiest is from Pen-y-Gwryd ; 
 the most difficult, from Beddgelert. There is another route, 
 almost equally formidable, from the shores of Llyn Gwynant. 
 We have, on different occasions, explored all of these routes. 
 
 We will first describe an excursion we made to these lakes 
 from Beddgelert, during the summer of 1857. On Wednesday, 
 June 24, we started from our quarters at twenty minutes to five 
 o'clock, A.M. The morning was cloudless j and the day proved 
 excessively hot and sultry, with little or no breeze. After leaving 
 Beddgelert, we followed the turnpike-road to Llyn-y-Ddinas ;
 
 WELSH HOSPITALITY ROUTE TO THE LAKES. 79 
 
 there we crossed the Avon Las on stepping-stones, and followed 
 a path which skirted the south-west shore, until we approached 
 the north-east extremity of the lake. Here we struck off to the 
 right, into a wild rugged country, crossing several ravines, and 
 through a belt of fir timber : at the bottom of the valley below 
 us we descried a farmhouse; and, being already excessively 
 thirsty, we made towards it, in the hope of obtaining some 
 refreshment ; nor were we disappointed : the good woman of the 
 house readily produced some " glas dwr," literally, " blue water," 
 Anglice, skim-milk, which we found very refreshing. We then 
 proceeded due east, towards a rather elevated mountain range of 
 picturesque outline, called Craig Llyn Llagi, which divides Llyn 
 Llagi from Llyn-yr-Adar. At the foot of this range we discovered 
 the lake. Llyn Llagi lies in a semi-circular cwm, and somewhat 
 resembles Llyn Bodlyn, near Llanbedr. It is a wild sequestered 
 scene, but not nearly so savage and desolate in appearance as 
 Edno. From the extreme beauty of the early morning, with a 
 thin almost transparent haze hanging over the pool, it indeed 
 wore a smiling dreamy aspect. As the lake was as calm and 
 unruffled as the surface of a mirror, not a shadow on its waters, 
 save from the lofty rocks on its eastern shore, we saw that it was 
 useless to attempt to angle ; so we slowly proceeded onwards to 
 visit Llyn-yr-Adar. This portion of the route was the most 
 arduous and difficult of the whole excursion : it is not only very 
 steep and rugged, but the overpowering heat we had to endure, 
 added to the fatigue of crossing over Craig Llyn Llagi. The trout 
 in Llagi are large and " free ;" but it is dangerous to fish on the 
 east side, in consequence of there being deep water up to some 
 nearly perpendicular rocks. "We observed a few trout rising as 
 we passed the lake. After gaining the summit of the barren 
 verdureless precipices which divide the llyns, we found the path 
 to Llyn-yr-Adar comparatively easy. This pool is at a much 
 greater altitude than Llagi; it contains a picturesque rocky 
 islet, the haunt of a number of sea-gulls of the " black-backed " 
 species. Here they lay their eggs, and bring up their young in 
 perfect security, being quite safe from the spoiler, unless he is 
 inclined to swim, as there is deep water between the islet and 
 the shore. The appearance of this islet reminded us of the
 
 80 BLACK-BACKED GULLS LLYN OWN MONSTER TROUT. 
 
 account given by Mr. Charles St. John, in his very interesting 
 "Tour in Sutherland;" similar rocks in the Highland lakes 
 being the abode of the osprey. On our approach to the lake, the 
 gulls, which were all sitting on the islet, about 100 yards off, 
 rose into the air, and testified their anger at our intrusion, by 
 setting up an unceasing, wild, discordant screaming, making alto- 
 gether a hideous clamour. Here the lover of Nature may rest 
 awhile, and contemplate the magnificent mountain scene which 
 lies around him. To the south, the barren, scathed, rocky peak 
 of Cnight, by some supposed, from its steep conical form, to have 
 been in remote ages subject to volcanic action ; the huge, daring 
 outlines of Moelwyn, and the dark ctcms around them, arrest the 
 attention, and on the east and north the eye rests on a series of 
 bare rugged mountains, where, amidst their deep recesses, several 
 lakes lie " in grim repose." 
 
 We found Llyn-yr-Adar quite as calm as its sister lake. It 
 was now half-past ten o'clock, and there appeared to be little 
 probability of the slightest breeze : fishing was out of the question. 
 The sky at this time became suddenly overcast dark thunder- 
 clouds loomed up in the eastern heavens, which seemed to 
 forebode a tempest : still no breeze nought disturbed the death- 
 like stillness except the melancholy wail of the gulls, which 
 sounded ominously on the ear. The air, even at this high eleva- 
 tion, was sultry and oppressive to a degree, and produced a 
 feeling of lassitude and drowsiness which it was difficult to shake 
 off. After reposing for about an hour, we reluctantly gave the 
 word to march, and bade adieu to Llyn-yr-Adar. We now pro- 
 ceeded towards Llyn Edno, which lies about one mile and a 
 quarter to the north-east, in the bosom of the same range of wild, 
 savage, sterile mountains. You pass, on your route, by two 
 small tarns, called Llynniau Own, in the smallest of which it is 
 said that there are some very large trout. We were told that 
 two gentlemen, fishing there in 1856, caught two trout, one of 
 which weighed seven pounds, and the other two pounds. There 
 is also a marvellous tale of a monster trout, which is still 
 believed to be in the pool, said to be at least eighteen pounds 
 weight, and which has several times broken off the hooks. The 
 largest of these pools is destitute of fish. On our arrival at Llyn
 
 EXCURSION TO LLYN BDNO IN 1849. 81 
 
 Edno, we were delighted to find that a slight breeze had spruug 
 up, which we hoped would continue to freshen. We also observed 
 that several large fish were on the move, several of which lazily 
 rolled over the flies which were floating on the water. We 
 therefore speedily unlimbered our rod, and put on a tempting 
 cast of flies, viz. a woodcock wing, with yellow body, a fernshaw, 
 and a March brown. Some heavy drops of rain now began to 
 fall, so that we began to anticipate some sport. We were, how- 
 ever, dpomed to disappointment. We remained nearly three 
 hours waiting for a good breeze, without which it was quite 
 evident nothing could be done. There were now and then a few 
 "cats' paws," but the wary trout, although occasionally they 
 " nibbled " at your flies by way of tantalizing you, were evidently 
 not in earnest, and we were ultimately obliged to leave the lake 
 as others had done before without " a fin " to recompense us for 
 all our toil and labour. We returned home to Beddgelert by 
 another route, following the course of Edno brook, which falls 
 into the Avon Las near Plas Gwynant. This route, if possible, 
 proved more toilsome and difficult than the ascent we had made 
 in the morning, and we arrived at Beddgelert about six o'clock 
 P.M., fatigued and somewhat exhausted, after spending the hottest 
 day in the mountains we had ever encountered. 
 
 We now proceed to transcribe from our journal a brief account 
 of an excursion we made to Llyn Edno in 1849, from Pen-y- 
 Gwryd, attended with more fortunate results. In June, 1849, 
 during a sojourn of a few days at Pen-y-Gwryd inn, we made 
 our first acquaintance with this desolate spot. The distance from 
 this place to Llyn Edno is about five miles, and the path, if it 
 can be called one, though occasionally rough, boggy, and of steep 
 ascent, is comparatively much easier than any other route. It 
 was early on a joyous summer's day that we left our humble inn, 
 in company with our guide and landlord, Henry Owen, bent on 
 capturing, if possible, some of the wily trout, about whose shy 
 habits we had had frequent talk with some of the native fisher- 
 men. The day appeared most favourable for our purpose ; light 
 fleecy clouds, with occasional bursts of sunshine, and a gentle 
 breeze from south-east, which curled the waters of the llyn, left 
 nothing that could be desired. En route we were much charmed 
 
 G
 
 82 DESCRIPTION OP LLYN EDNO LARGE TROUT. 
 
 with the view of Nant Gwynant, which lay bathed in sunshine 
 far down the mountain-side on our right. The tiny waves of the 
 beautiful Llyn Gwynant sparkled in the sun's rays ; and Snowdon, 
 lifting his tall peaks into the clouds, which occasionally drifted 
 across them, presented those sublime effects of light and shade, 
 that inexpressible freshness, dignity, and grace, which we have 
 never seen so fully realized as amongst the wild highland solitudes 
 of Wales. As we proceeded we gradually got into a more alpine 
 district, and after crossing a high ridge, on the summit of which 
 we remained for a few minutes to rest, we descended into Cwm 
 Edno, which leads to the lake. On our arrival at the pool, we 
 speedily rigged our rod, and commenced fishing, not without 
 some misgivings as to success. The wind and weather, however, 
 as we had surmised, proved very favourable, and, in the course of 
 a few hours, we were so fortunate as to capture six handsome 
 trout, exceeding one pound each. These fish, for their size, were 
 the strongest we had ever encountered ; and as the shores of the 
 llyn were very rough and stony, it was no easy task to land them 
 safely. The trout were in the finest condition, firm, and of a 
 beautiful colour. Our guide assured us that we ought to consider 
 ourselves exceedingly fortunate, as it was only on rare occasions 
 that trout could be taken here. Llyn Edno is scarcely more than 
 three furlongs long from north to south, and is about two furlongs 
 in width ; it is of unknown depth, and there is hardly any shoal 
 water even close to the shore. It is in some places difficult of 
 access, owing to smooth rocks slanting off into deep water. This 
 is the most celebrated lake in the district for its large and finely 
 flavoured trout; as a matter of course these trout are exceedingly 
 shy, and you may go several times in succession without being 
 even favoured with the sight of one. The best side to fish is the 
 east shore ; the water on the western side is very deep, and trout 
 as we have before observed seldom rise well in deep water. 
 We killed our fish with the March brown and fernshaw. The 
 flesh of most of the trout caught in Llyn Edno cuts red, and for 
 quality and flavour can even successfully vie with those taken 
 at Llyn Ogwen. Trout have been caught in Edno as large as six 
 or eight pounds, but the general size is from three quarters to 
 one pound and a half and two pounds. The best sport we heard
 
 ACCIDENTS AT LLYN LLAGI CORACLES. 83 
 
 of in 1857, was that obtained by two first-rate anglers frovn the 
 neighbourhood of Maentwrog, who caught twenty-three trout, the 
 weight of which averaged about one pound each. The trout in 
 Llyn-yr-Adar are said to run large, but, like those in Edno, 
 extremely shy. These lakes are occasionally poached with the 
 " board " by quarrymen from Ffestiniog and Tan-y-Bwlch, but 
 we presume with indifferent success, at least by day. The 
 " board " is generally most destructive at night, as the tackle 
 employed is coarse, and therefore apt to scare large fish in the 
 daytime. It is within the memory of man when no trout existed 
 in Llyn-yr-Adar ; it is said to have been stocked from Llyn Llagi. 
 A few years ago a fatal accident occurred at Llagi. A man was 
 fishing under some rocks, off which he slipped, and getting out 
 of his depth was drowned. An accident, which might have been 
 attended with a similar catastrophe, occurred to a Mr. S. and his 
 servant, whilst fishing Llagi, in 1856. They were in a coracle, 
 which is a ticklish boat to manage, and were fishing over the 
 deepest water in the lake, near to the rocks. He had hooked a 
 fish of about one pound, and was in the act of getting him into 
 the landing-net, when his foot slipped, and losing his balance, 
 he fell over the coracle, which immediately capsized, carrying the 
 servant with it. Mr. S. called out to the servant to take care of 
 himself, as he Mr. S. had quite enough to do to keep himself 
 afloat. This hint " Jack " instantly acted upon, and being more 
 nimble than his master, struck out and reached the shore first. 
 The coracle, fishing-rod, and we believe even the fish, were 
 ultimately recovered. There are no boats on any of these 
 mountain-pools, but coracles, or India-rubber boats, are occa- 
 sionally employed. Unless you can swim well, they are exceed- 
 ingly dangerous, as they require skilful management. 
 
 Before we conclude our notice of the lakes in the Beddgelert 
 district, we must not omit to mention 
 
 ffstrablljnt, 
 
 pronounced Strathllyn, a small pool on the west side of the range 
 of hills leading to the sea coast near Tremadoc, which form a con- 
 tinuation of the ridge leading south from Moel Hebog. There is 
 G 2
 
 84 CWM YSTRADLLYN SCENERY. 
 
 a slate quarry near the east end of Ystradllyn, and probably it is 
 poached by quarrymen ; nevertheless, good sport is occasionally 
 obtained, and the trout, although not large, are good and " free." 
 We derived this information from one of the local fishermen, who 
 sometimes went to the lake. The pool, however, we were also 
 informed, is netted weekly. There is & boat which may be had 
 for a trifling remuneration. The distance to Cwm Ystradllyn 
 from Beddgelert is about four miles and a half, and the views of 
 the surrounding scenery on the route, including the Pass of 
 Beddgelert, are exquisitely beautiful. There are one or two 
 other small tarns amongst these hills ; but we cannot give any 
 information about them.
 
 THE AVON LA'S ITS PICTURESQUE BEAUTY. 85 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 RIVER FISHING AT BEDDGELERT AVON LAS PONT ABERGLASLTN 
 CRAIG-T-LLAN RIVER-POACHING - COLWYN ANECDOTES 
 MOEL HEBOG EXCURSION TO SUMMIT CNIGHT MOELWYN 
 TREMADOC SCENERY PORTHMADOC PENMORFA DOLBEN- 
 MAEN. 
 
 " I love the walks where Nature's track is seen, 
 And riot mid rent rocks and forests wild, 
 Huge precipices, cataracts, and groves 
 Of venerable oak, impervious half 
 To Sol's bright beams, o'erhanging waterfalls, 
 And half admitting chequer' d rays to dance 
 Adown the silver Naiad's murmuring stream." 
 
 commonly called the Glasllyn, is the most beautiful stream in 
 Snowdonia in our opinion it is the most picturesque river in 
 all Wales. Cradled in the clouds, nursed by the frost and 
 snows of winter, the dews and rains of summer, it issues 
 from its parent, Ffynnon Las, " The Blue Spring," a small deep 
 pool of crystalline purity lying in a profound cwm, under 
 the northern precipices of Snowdon, and passing through the 
 " wild and lone Llyn Llydaw," it flows over a series of cataracts 
 called Rhaiadr Cwm Dyli, into the lovely " Vale of waters ; " 
 thence to Beddgelert: a situation, as Mr. Pennant justly observes, 
 " one of the fittest in the world to inspire religious meditation, 
 amid lofty mountains, woods, and murmuring streams." A 
 ramble along the banks of the Avon Las below Beddgelert is 
 very delightful, and offers, in fine weather, " a most delicious 
 evening scene ; " indeed the whole course of the river from its 
 mountain home until its waters arrive at Pont Aberglaslyn, is a 
 succession of contrasts. In one part you behold, bountifully
 
 86 PASS OF BEDDGELERT PONT ABERGLASLYN. 
 
 spread out, the luxuriant beauties of nature ; in another, her wild 
 and barren sublimities ; and should the " pale moonlight " at a 
 later hour lend additional grace to the picture, portraying in 
 softer outlines the darkening shadows of the rocks on one side of 
 the Pass, while on the other they are brightly illumined by the 
 moon's rays, the wanderer may silently contemplate the decreas- 
 ing shadows of the lofty mountains, as the moon becomes more 
 elevated, or listen to the ceaseless roar of waters plunging and 
 foaming in their mad career over the huge rocks and stones 
 " fletynge and raging," in the language of quaint old Leland 
 which vainly attempt to stay their course through the magnificent 
 Pass of Beddgelert. Before arriving at Llyn-y-Ddinas, the river 
 receives an additional supply from the superabundant waters of 
 Llyn Edno ; at Beddgelert, it is joined by its wild romping sister 
 the Colwyn, a mountain torrent, which chiefly derives its source 
 from Snowdon and Moel Hebog, and flows, as already observed, 
 through the Pass of Beddgelert to PONT ABEB.GLASLYN, " the gate 
 into Merionethshire." This spot is deservedly considered one of 
 the most wonderful scenes in Wales ; but to see the view to per- 
 fection, you must proceed about one hundred yards on theTremadoc 
 road. Here the venerable bridge clothed with ivy, and the lofty 
 rocks on either side the entrance to the Pass, 
 
 " Raised tier on tier, 
 High pil'd from earth to heaven," 
 
 form a fine scene ; the view is incomparably grand, and makes 
 a lasting impression on the mind and memory. "We were 
 inexpressibly struck," remarks an observant writer, "with the 
 JBwlch at Pont Aberglaslyn, certainly the finest scene of its kind, 
 the most perfect realization of a mountain pass to be found 
 in Wales." The river, after passing under the bridge, forms a 
 deep pool, a favourite haunt of salmon, and from thence pro- 
 ceeds tranquilly on its course to the sea, through a flat marshy 
 traeth meaning a sand until it reaches Porthmadoc, where it 
 passes into the sea through sluice gates, which shut when the 
 tide flows. This traeth was formerly covered at high tide, but 
 reclaimed at vast expense by the late Mr. Maddocks. The 
 embankment, a mile long, which accomplished this great im-
 
 SALMON, SEWIN AND TROUT FISHING. 87 
 
 provement, was finished in 1807, at a cost of 100,000. 
 There are several deep, dark green pools in the Avon Las above 
 the bridge. Here the salmon and sewin lurk on their passage 
 from the sea to the lakes, and higher portions of the river. 
 The "salmon leap," described by Hansard in his work on 
 angling, published about twenty-five years ago, has been destroyed 
 for some time, probably through elemental agency. It used to 
 form a stock subject in the guide books and tours. This "leap" 
 was just above Pont Aberglaslyn. The precipitous sides of the 
 chasm through which the river flows, are composed of schistose 
 rocks of a black, grey, and ochry tinge, betraying evidence of 
 copper ore. These are in some parts clothed with heather, which 
 when in blossom in the autumn, presents a rich purple tint, and 
 adds much to that colour for which the Pass is so celebrated. 
 These rocks Craig-y-Llan rise to an altitude of 700 feet, and 
 in some places scarcely leave a secure footing to the angler, as 
 the wild waters rush tumultuously at their feet. Several levels 
 have been driven into the rocks on both sides the river in search 
 of copper, but we understand that ore has not been found in suf- 
 ficient quantity to repay the expense of working the mines. 
 With one or two exceptions, these levels are now abandoned. So 
 far as angling is concerned it is fortunate ; for, had copper been 
 found in any quantity, the mineral water from the levels would 
 speedily have destroyed all the fish in the river. 
 
 Some years ago, the Avon Las was a most excellent stream for 
 salmon, sewin, and trout fishing, in fact, one of the very best 
 rivers in North Wales ; but of late years poaching has been 
 carried on to such a great extent as materially to interfere with 
 the legitimate sportsman. Notwithstanding the efforts of the 
 poachers, who at Beddgelert, day and night, pursue their illegal 
 calling with net and spear, a great number of sewin and salmon 
 ascend the river from Porthmadoc ; but numbers are netted before 
 they reach Pont Aberglaslyn, and comparatively very few indeed 
 fall to the share of the angler. Below the bridge, the river is 
 strictly preserved by a wealthy solicitor of the name of Williams, 
 residing in the vicinity; and gentlemen angling, even for trout 
 only, are liable to be warned off by the keepers, unless they 
 possess a card of permission. Strictly speaking, this portion of
 
 88 FISHING AT BEDDGELERT CAUTION TO ANGLERS. 
 
 the river can hardly be said to be preserved, as Mr. Williams's 
 keepers are daily employed sweeping the river with a net during 
 the summer and autumn. A few years ago, a fishing club was 
 established at Tremadoc, mainly, we believe, through the efforts 
 of a Mr. Spooner, a gentleman then residing in the neighbourhood, 
 and day or season tickets could be obtained at a moderate rate. 
 We were informed in 1857, that the traeth at that time was 
 preserved entirely for angling, so that first-rate trout and salmon 
 fishing could be obtained. Trout, of large size, still abound in 
 the river below the bridge, of from one to three or four pounds. 
 These fish are occasionally taken with the fly above the bridge in 
 the autumn, on their passage up the river to spawn. From the 
 circumstances we have detailed, angling in the Avon Las in 1857 
 was a profitless pursuit, and very few salmon or sewin were taken 
 by visitors. Those fish that were caught by the rod were chiefly 
 taken by one or two professional fishermen residing in Beddgelert, 
 who knew the river well, and were at work early or late, as it 
 suited their convenience. We knew of several gentlemen who 
 had come a considerable distance, expressly for the purpose of 
 salmon-fishing, who went away disgusted with the disgraceful 
 practices openly followed by the natives of the village. The 
 Avon Las above Pont Aberglaslyn belongs, we believe, to the 
 Crown, and is therefore a free river; but surely some steps might 
 be taken by proprietors of land in the neighbourhood to put a 
 stop to these unlawful pursuits, and thus prevent one of the very 
 best rivers in Wales from becoming comparatively worthless. 
 
 We have considered it a duty to place before the salmon-fisher 
 the vexatious annoyances he will be exposed to, should he fix 
 upon Beddgelert as the scene of his piscatorial pursuits ; unless, 
 therefore, affairs are much altered for the better since our sojourn 
 at Beddgelert in 1857, we emphatically warn anglers against a 
 visit to that village for its salmon or river fishing. The season 
 for sewin commences in June, and salmon begin to ascend the 
 river in July and August. The average size of sewin is from 
 half a pound to two or three pounds ; salmon weigh from six to 
 twelve or fourteen pounds ; but few very large fish are caught 
 until kte in the autumn.
 
 SINGULAR METHOD OP CATCHING SALMON. 89 
 
 |w Colfogn. 
 
 We cannot report favourably of the fishing in the Colwyn. This 
 river in the spring and summer is frequently very low and clear, 
 so much so, that in many places you can easily cross it almost 
 dryshod. Comparatively few sewin or salmon ascend this stream, 
 as two or three miles above Beddgelert their further progress is 
 stopped by a waterfall. The trout in the Colwyn are generally 
 very small ; but they are pretty little fish, and in the spring, or 
 during a flood, will bite freely at a worm. Near the waterfall, an 
 old woman, who lives hard by in a cottage, occasionally earns a 
 few shillings by catching sewin in their attempts to leap over it. 
 She places a basket at the foot of the fall, and the fish actually 
 fall back into it. This puts us in mind of a somewhat similar 
 practice, which we have somewhere read of being pursued in 
 Scotland, the precise locale we do not now remember. A laird, 
 who lived near a salmon stream on which there was a fall, used 
 to catch sea-trout by placing a caldron of boiling water beneath 
 it, into which the fish fell in their attempts to ascend, and they 
 were actually cooked ready on the spot for the entertainment of 
 his friends whom he had invited to witness this singular sport. 
 The Colwyn is a joyous mountain torrent flowing through Nant 
 Colwyn, and, to the stranger who is fond of a stroll into the 
 wilds, we strongly recommend a ramble to its sources. Near 
 Beddgelert, the banks of the river are clothed with native oaks 
 and other trees, and it rushes for about two or three miles over 
 a rocky bed, which during a high flood assumes a similar aspect 
 to its turbulent sister, the Avon Las. An immense body of water 
 after heavy rains comes down this river from the mountains, and 
 at Beddgelert it sometimes presents in a few hours a most for- 
 midable appearance. 
 
 <85*ettrsi0n to % Summit 0f ipotl Ijkhajj. 
 
 In favourable weather, mountain-climbing forms a most delightful 
 pursuit, and by some enthusiastic spirits it is followed up with a 
 degree of ardour which scorns alike danger or fatigue. Amongst 
 the Snowdonian Alps one of the most striking and attractive is
 
 90 MOEL HEBOG ASCENT TO ITS SUMMIT. 
 
 Moel Hebog, and as there are very few recorded accounts of an 
 ascent to its summit, we purpose giving a brief account of a visit 
 we made to it in 1857. There are several routes, all of which 
 are more or less difficult ; but the path generally followed is 
 through a lane to the right of the Goat Hotel, which gradually 
 leads to the tertiary ranges of the mountain, and is easily followed 
 without the assistance of a guide. There is another way from 
 the summit of the hills overlooking Ystradllyn. The ascent from 
 this point, however, is exceedingly arduous and difficult, as the 
 sides of the mountain on the south-east are very steep, and in 
 some parts scarped and covered with rocks and loose rolling 
 debris, which perpetually give way under your feet; but the 
 summit of Hebog once attained, we can promise a rich treat to 
 such as dare its performance. We are surprised that Moel Hebog 
 is so seldom visited by tourists. To our mind, the view from it, 
 if not so extensive as Snowdon, is equally as pleasing, and in 
 some respects superior, because you are now upon a level with 
 several of the surrounding mountains, and obtain such a mag- 
 nificent prospect of Snowdon himself. 
 
 " The mountains huge appear 
 Emergent, and their broad backs upheave 
 Into the clouds ; their tops ascend the sky." 
 
 It is singular that, with the exception of Lord Lyttelton, who 
 ascended Moel Hebog some time in the last century, there is no 
 recorded instance as far as our reading goes, which is tolerably 
 extensive in the various " tours in Wales," of any topographer 
 of note having attempted it. The fact is, that only one leading 
 idea pervades the heads of the numerous tourists who annually 
 arrive at Beddgelert, and that is, the ascent to the " King of 
 Mountains." There is, however, a great deal to see and admire 
 in this delightful locality, besides the view from Snowdon, and an 
 excursion to the summit of Moel Hebog is by no means the least 
 attractive. It is a much more difficult task to perform than it 
 looks from the old bridge at Beddgelert, and, although not nearly 
 so lofty, requires a great deal more exertion really harder 
 "collar work" than the usual route from Beddgelert to the 
 summit of Snowdon.
 
 VIEW FROM SUMMIT SCENIC EFFECTS. 91 
 
 We accomplished our ascent of Moel Hebog on a fine warm 
 morning in August, 1857, commencing from the north-east side, 
 until we had rounded the vast deep cwm the grandest feature 
 of the mountain looking north-east ; we then advanced towards 
 the ridge before mentioned, and boldly breasted the almost per- 
 pendicular steeps at the south-east side. We had no guide, and 
 therefore cannot say whether this is the usual route ; but, at all 
 events, it proved fatiguing enough, and even dangerous, as in 
 some places a single false step might have produced a broken 
 limb. The day although the sky was sometimes partially 
 obscured by dark masses of clouds, producing those fascinating 
 effects of light and shade, those " stirring mountain effects " 
 was excessively hot and sultry, and even on the highest point of 
 the mountain it was quite f calm. Moel Hebog, according to the 
 latest trigonometrical survey, is 2,580 feet above the sea level : 
 this altitude is 1,091 feet lower than Moel-y-Wyddfa, the highest 
 peak of Snowdon. There are two carnedds or mounds of stones 
 on the summit of Moel Hebog; one of them, apparently very 
 ancient, near the edge of the precipice which overhangs the deep 
 cwm or hollow already described, and the other erected a few 
 years ago by the Ordnance surveyors. This earn lies to the west 
 of the other, and is built over a dry stone wall boundary. It is 
 not laid down on the Ordnance map, and has perhaps been erected 
 since its execution. The summit of the mountain between the 
 two Carnedds is table-land, and affords a very pleasant promenade. 
 There is also from the Ordnance carnedd a very smooth, easy 
 incline, mostly short velvet-like turf, from hence towards Cwm 
 Ystradllyn and Dolbenmaen. The view from the summit looking 
 south to the sea over the peninsula of Lleyn, 
 
 " Land of the bleak, the treeless moor," 
 
 the bay of Cardigan, as far south as St. David's Head, the hill 
 country of Merioneth, including the "ruined towers" of Harlech 
 and Criccieth, is magnificent in the extreme : to the north and 
 north-west, the eye embraces some of the loftiest points in 
 Snowdonia, 
 
 " Sterile mountains seared and riven," ^
 
 92 A MOUNTAIN BAROMETER CNIGHT. 
 
 with peeps here and there of some of the most beautiful lakes 
 and valleys. " It is long before the eye," eloquently observes the 
 author of the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, 
 " unaccustomed to measure such elevations, can accommodate itself 
 to scenes so admirable the whole appearing as if there had been 
 a war of the elements : . . . . rocks and mountains are blended 
 with others as dark, as rugged, and as elevated as themselves : 
 the whole resembling the swellings of an agitated ocean." 
 
 " The increasing prospect tires our wandering eyes, 
 Hills peep o'er hills, and Alps on Alps arise." 
 
 Moel Hebog is generally the quarter to which the guides look 
 before they start for Snowdon ; it is in fact their weather-glass. 
 If the peak of Hebog is covered with clouds, and assumes a dark 
 and threatening aspect, they consider that it is hopeless to attempt 
 the ascent of Snowdon; if on the contrary it is clear, they 
 prognosticate that the ascent will be accompanied by favourable 
 weather. We remember that in June, 1840, when we ascended 
 Snowdon'for the first time, under the pilotage of Richard Edwards, 
 " the father of guides," as he was called, the old and experienced 
 guide would not permit us to leave our quarters at the Goat 
 Hotel, until Hebog had " doffed his night-cap." We may add, 
 that we afterwards found from experience that the guides were 
 generally right. 
 
 Before we finally bid adieu to Beddgelert, we cannot refrain 
 from calling the attention of the reader to one or two other 
 charming excursions within reach, and which, if he is fresh to the 
 country, he will be especially delighted with. 
 
 The tourist, on the road from Tremadoc to Pont Aberglaslyn, 
 will observe on his right two mountains of singularly bold and 
 picturesque outline, these are called Cnight and Moelwyu ; the 
 former is 2,372 feet, and the latter 2,566 feet above the sea-level. 
 It is not too much to assert that there is no mountain in Wales 
 not even Snowdon that presents to the eye such elegance of 
 outline as the conical summit of Cnight. One of the best views
 
 A MOUNTAIN ENTHUSIAST SUMMIT OF CNIGHT. 93 
 
 of this mountain is from the point just named ; but there are 
 several other exquisite peeps to be obtained on the road between 
 Pont Aberglaslyn and Tan-y-Bwlch. One of them, especially 
 that near the bridge on the Merionethshire side, is certainly one 
 of the finest mountain vistas in Wales. In the course of several 
 solitary rambles along the streams and amongst the woods which 
 clothe the bases of these mountains, we were seized with the 
 desire of ascending to the summit of Cnight; this exploit we 
 knew, from the appearance of the mountain, would be attended 
 with some difficult and arduous climbing ; but nothing daunted, 
 and having recently performed the feat of ascending Moel Hebog 
 unaided and alone, we determined to carry out our purpose on 
 the first fitting opportunity. The weather in September, 1857, 
 was singularly fine in North Wales ; magnificent lights, magical 
 transitions from light to shade, brilliant sunsets, were the usual 
 daily concomitants for several weeks. Such weather is rarely 
 seen in Wales at this advanced period of the year; mists and 
 heavy rains being the usual characteristics. 
 
 Few Englishmen have ever stood upon the summit of Cnight : 
 we never met with but one individual who had performed the 
 feat, and this was a clergyman, a perfect enthusiast in mountain 
 scenery a most intellectual companion and whom in a future 
 chapter we will introduce more prominently before our readers. 
 
 Friday, the 4th of September, being a singularly fine day, and 
 exactly suited to our purpose, we left Beddgelert early in the 
 afternoon, on an excursion to the summit of Cnight. We pro- 
 ceeded by way of Pont Aberglaslyn, and, crossing the bridge, 
 followed the road to Tan-y-Bwlch for about half a mile, when we 
 struck off into the old mountain road to the left through some 
 woods, passing Nantmor, " the vale of the sea," and after crossing 
 several ravines and a mountain rivulet (which contains some fine 
 trout), we at length gained the open country. The scenery here 
 is " untameably wild," and the magnificent outline of the lofty 
 mountain the object of our excursion loomed up grandly before 
 us to our left. After crossing some stone walls which, built 
 without mortar, are often dangerous to get over, from being 
 generally in a ruinous, tottering condition, the usual boundaries 
 in the Welsh highlands we began, after leaving the old road, to
 
 94 DANGER AND DIFFICULTY OF THE ASCENT. 
 
 gradually ascend the secondary ranges of Cnight. The view to 
 the south was very extensive, embracing the estuaries of Traeth 
 Mawr and Bach, Cardigan Bay, the noble ruins of Harlech and 
 Criccieth castles, the hill country of Merioneth, stretching from 
 Ffestiniog to Barmouth, backed up by Rhinog Vawr, Cader Idris, 
 and the Arans. To the west, the eye rested on Moel Hebog, and 
 the picturesque range of hills trending down to the sea at Trema- 
 doc ; a portion of the wild peninsula of Lleyn, including the bold 
 headland, off which lie St. Tudwal's Isles, which stretches into 
 the sea beyond Pwllheli, and the " isle of saints," Bardsey, loom- 
 ing in the far west. " A landscape, like a picture," remarks an 
 intelligent writer, " requires a good light ; it looks flat under 
 broad sunshine, although all its elements are essentially pictu- 
 resque, and those who view it under a morning or midday sun, 
 or cold gray sky, and depart near a fine sunset, can hardly believe 
 that the same scene could exhibit contrasts so great, if they did 
 not see it with their own eyes. Then, the natural beauty, the 
 grandeur of the parts of which the landscape is composed, is 
 understood." The truth of these remarks will hardly be disputed ; 
 and we fully appreciated them ; 
 
 " The gay beams of gladsome day," 
 
 however, in no way interfering with the beauty of the landscape, 
 as the striking contrasts of light and shade, produced by a 
 canopy of broken clouds, some of them occasionally resting on 
 the summits of the more lofty mountains, left their due breadth 
 of shadow and produced a combination of "effects" we had 
 rarely seen equalled. After a gradual ascent of about an hour, 
 we approached the plateau, from which rises the cone of Cnight ; 
 and here the real labour of the ascent commenced. On our 
 approach to the foot of the cone, we saw at once that our antici- 
 pations of the difficulty of ascending, or rather clambering to the 
 summit, were not magnified. Path there was none; the steep 
 incline was covered with small loose debris, and on the south 
 side, looking down into Cwm Croesor, the mountain was a sheer 
 precipice, absolutely inaccessible. It was some little time before 
 we could summon up courage to commence our task ; and it was 
 not until after several repulses, from the difficulty of keeping our
 
 CWM CROESOR MAGNIFICKNT SCENE. 95 
 
 footing, that we succeeded in accomplishing the ascent. Our 
 approach to the mountain was from the south-west; we then 
 turned to the north-west side, and after excessive toil, and some 
 danger, we at last stood upon the summit of the cone. Here the 
 Ordnance surveyors have erected a carnedd ; and, being exposed 
 to the wind, which began to blow freshly, we were glad to repose 
 under its lee. We had no conception that the view would have 
 been so extensive or so magnificent, and it was some time before 
 we could take in all the details of the splendid panorama around 
 us. To the north and east, Snowdouia lay unveiled ; the mighty 
 monarch Snowdon, carnedds Llewelyn, Dafydd, Moel Siabod, and 
 the Glyders, rose up in all their majestic grandeur ; whilst to the 
 east, the waters of Lljn Conwy glistened in the sunshine amidst 
 the sea of mountain tops which arose in that quarter. The view 
 to the south, seaward, we have already noticed : but what struck 
 us more than anything else was the deep cwm that lay immediately 
 below CWM CKOESOR. Picture to yourself a bird's-eye view of 
 an enormous ship a " Great Eastern " on the stocks before her 
 decks are laid, or the depths of some mountain lake left dry through 
 some fearful convulsion of the elements ; this gives you only a faint 
 idea of this sublime scene. Cwm Croesor is the profound hollow 
 which separates Cnight from Moelwyn ; from the height on which 
 we stood, that huge mountain of course lost some of its grandeur, 
 because we were within some 200 feet of being on a level with 
 it ; still we were inexpressibly charmed as we dived into some of 
 the dark, shadowy, mysterious cwm which surround his base, 
 amongst which we observed the waters of the romantic Llyn 
 Cwm Orthin, sparkling in the rays of the evening sun. These 
 bird's-eye peeps of lakes in the wildly-picturesque landscape, 
 which characterise the mountain scenery of Wales, add greatly 
 to the general effects observable from a lofty position. No less 
 than eighteen or twenty llyns are visible from the summit of 
 Cnight, amongst which our old acquaintances, Edno, Llagi, and 
 Llyn-yr-Adar, were conspicuous. Cwrn Croesor is watered by a 
 little streamlet which threads its way at the bottom, gladdening 
 the vale beneath in its onward course before its waters join the 
 Avon Las at Cerig-y-Rhwydwr, on the Traeth Mawr. 
 
 After spending more than an hour in the silent contemplation
 
 96 MOELWYN EXTENSIVE VIEW. 
 
 of these stupendous works of nature these glories and sub- 
 limities of the 
 
 " Mountain and the flood," 
 
 we reluctantly began to retrace our steps, which we found almost 
 more arduous and fatiguing than the ascent. 
 
 " These are thy glorious works, Parent of good, 
 Almighty ! Thine this universal frame, 
 Thus wondrous fair ; Thyself how wondrous then ! 
 Unspeakable, who sitt'st above these heavens 
 To us invisible, or dimly seen 
 In these thy lowest works ; yet these declare 
 Thy goodness beyond thought, and power divine." 
 
 PARADISE LOST. 
 
 Traces of volcanic action are said to have been discovered on 
 Cnight. Vitrified stones, showing the effects of fire, are also said 
 to have been picked up; but we are free to confess that we 
 could discover nothing leading to the conjecture, and must there- 
 fore leave it to wiser heads to determine. We descended into 
 the road by nearly the same route as the ascent, and were glad 
 to reach our quarters after six hours' pleasurable excitement, 
 feeling only a slight fatigue. 
 
 The ascent to Moelwyn is easily performed over the western 
 arm, up which a pony may be ridden. The route part of the way 
 is the same as to Cnight. At the entrance into Cwm Croesor, you 
 pass by Ffynnon Helen, on the old road to Tan-y-Bwlch; and 
 after proceeding on the road for about three-quarters of a mile, 
 you turn off to the left, and get upon the south-west arm of the 
 mountain, which gradually leads to the summit. The view is 
 very extensive, and almost equally as impressive as from Cnight. 
 Cwm Croesor, however, is scarcely seen to such advantage, the 
 sides of Moelwyn being less precipitous. There is a fine view of 
 the vale of Efestiniog from the summit of Moelwyn, which also 
 includes the Arenigs and the mountainous region around Bala. 
 The distance from the highest point of Moelwyn to Beddgelert
 
 TREMADOC GRANDEUR OP THE SCENERY. 97 
 
 cannot be less by road than seven miles. This mountain is sur- 
 rounded by numerous llyns, but they are all more or less poached 
 by the workmen employed at the slate quarries, and now afford, 
 we believe, indifferent sport. 
 
 Cremator. 
 
 This pretty quiet village is delightfully situate beneath the 
 precipitous rocks which terminate the Moel Hebog range to the 
 south. The distance from Beddgelert is seven miles, and forms 
 a very pleasant pedestrian excursion. We can hardly extol too 
 highly the exquisite scenery which greets the eye at almost every 
 step from Tremadoc to Beddgelert; "lofty rocks, well-wooded 
 slopes, cascades, green recesses, retired valleys," which make you 
 long to explore them, diversify the scene. The perpendicular 
 cliffs, some of them adorned with ivy, are steep and inaccessible 
 from their foot, bearing some resemblance to the walls of an 
 ancient fortress, while here and there, lying on the roadside, you 
 behold huge boulders torn off from the crags above, the com- 
 bined effects of time and weather ; and narrow escapes from 
 fearful accidents are recorded, when these large masses of rock 
 have fallen with a tremendous crash from the adjacent precipices. 
 These disruptions occur chiefly in the winter, after heavy rains 
 or long-continued frosts. The road runs occasionally by the side 
 of the Avon Las for several miles, and about two miles from 
 Pont Aberglaslyn, a fine mountain view an evening scene espe- 
 cially of great beauty and grandeur in fine clear weather unfolds 
 itself to the eye. The highest peak of Snowdon gradually appears 
 in the extreme background the entrance to the Pass of Beddge- 
 lert, with its richly-wooded rocks covered with purple blooming 
 heather, and with mosses and lichens of delicate green the 
 summits of Cnight and Moelwyn, and the convulsed scenery at 
 their feet, glow under the effulgence of the setting sun, the 
 whole presenting a picture of mingled sublimity and softness 
 which absolutely fascinates the beholder; and we much question 
 whether there is any other landscape in Wales which is comparable 
 to this, when seen under favourable lights. 
 
 H
 
 98 PORTHMADOC SALMON FISHING SPORT. 
 
 This improving seaport is distant from Tremadoc about one 
 mile on the road to Tan-y-Bwlch. It is situate at the outlet of 
 the Avon Las into the sea, and has rapidly become a place of 
 considerable trade. When we were there, in the year 1857, a 
 great many new houses were in progress of erection, several of 
 which were intended for shops ; and the town and port wore the 
 appearance of busy industry. This is the principal outlet of the 
 district, and a large export trade in slates is carried on from the 
 quarries of Efestiniog, Moelwyn, and neighbourhood. There is a 
 good and safe tidal harbour for shipping, most of which lies afloat 
 even when the tide is out. A great many vessels were in the 
 harbour loading with slates ; and one day we counted at least 
 twenty vessels outside the " bar " on their outward voyage. The 
 sluices which shut the tide out from the traeth are above the 
 town, and extend across the river. A road is bridged over them, 
 and at half-ebb the water rushes with great velocity through 
 these sluices from 4he fine lake of water formed by the river 
 being thus dammed up at high water, or more properly during 
 the flow of the tide, when .the sluice-gates close. Salmon and 
 sewin find egress to the river, above the sluices, at the slack of 
 the tide after high water, or during the ebb. The lake appeared 
 to us generally shallow, and extends along the inner side of the 
 great embankment. Whilst standing on the summit of this, we 
 have, when the sun shone on the water, counted numerous fine 
 salmon and sewin, sailing about like so many chubb, fresh from 
 the sea. Fine sport is here to be obtained from a boat, as the 
 fish will rise greedily to the fly; but you must first obtain leave 
 from the proprietor of the fishery, Mr. Williams. The walk 
 .across the embankment extends for about one mile, and forms a 
 delightful promenade in fine weather. Charming land and sea 
 prospects may here be obtained. The tramway from the slate 
 quarries runs along its summit, which is 100 feet high from the 
 foundation. The coach-road is formed on a lower portion of the 
 embankment on the landward side. 
 
 I- .It may be useful to anglers and others to know that there is a 
 ferry from the harbour across the estuary to Harlech ; but there
 
 PENMORPA THE DWYFOB DOLBENMAEN. 99 
 
 is a wide expanse of sands on the other side of the river when 
 the water retires, and care should be taken to ascertain the time 
 of flood-tide. In fine weather, the passage across the ferry is 
 agreeable enough; but when the wind blows fresh from the 
 south-west it raises a heavy sea ; at such times we should much 
 prefer to take the road by Tan-y-Bwlch, although it is a consider- 
 able distance round. There is another passage across the river, 
 higher up, but we have not tried it. 
 
 the "head of the marsh," is a small village, situate on an 
 eminence about one mile from Tremadoc, on the old road to 
 Caernarvon : a visit to this place, where there is a comfortable 
 village inn, forms a pleasant evening's stroll from Tremadoc. 
 Farther on, distant four miles, is the wretched village of Dolben- 
 maen, "where was a round tower like that at Dolbadarn, now 
 demolished." The country here is extremely wild and dreary, 
 on the confines of the Peninsula of Lleyn, and the natives appear 
 equally as wild and primitive as the country they inhabit. Before 
 reaching Dolbemnaen you cross a considerable brook, the Dwyfor, 
 which rises in the mountains called Mynydd Tal-y-Mignedd, a 
 few miles to the south-east of Llynniau Nantllef. Its waters are 
 here joined by a small rivulet, combining the waters flowing from 
 Ystradllyn and Llyn Du. In the spring, we were informed that 
 there was excellent trout fishing here ; we, however, did not try 
 it, as at the time of our visit it was very late in the season ; we 
 only made an exploratory excursion. The chief drawback to the 
 angler is the want of accommodation at Dolbenmaen. We had 
 expected to have found a respectable village and a comfortable 
 inn, being deceived by the conspicuous letters in which the name 
 of the place appears on the map ; it, however, consists of only a few 
 mean cottages, a small church, and one of the most filthy, miserable 
 pothouses we had ever the misfortune to enter. Imagine our 
 disappointment, hot and thirsty as we were for we had walked 
 from Beddgelert, via Tremadoc, a distance of twelve miles, in a 
 very warm day to find some difficulty in procuring any refresh- 
 ment whatever. On entering the ruinous-looking tenement, we 
 
 H2
 
 100 A WELSH POTHOUSE BAD CHEER 
 
 were going to turn to the right, when we found the damp, dirty 
 hole, called, we suppose, the " parlour," filled to the brim with 
 the family at dinner, with scarce room to move round the table, 
 which occupied no inconsiderable share of the apartment ; what 
 the dinner consisted of we did not stay to examine, but there was 
 nothing of a very savoury character, judging from the effluvia 
 which proceeded from it. We then directed our steps into the 
 kitchen, where our nostrils were assailed with a vile compound of 
 nauseous tobacco-smoke and stale porter. Several men, half 
 savages in appearance, were here carousing, and to judge from 
 the jargon to us incomprehensible which was going on, were 
 already (temp, one o'clock) given to Bacchus. As "Welshmen gene- 
 rally on such occasions are very much inclined to be quarrelsome ; 
 and knowing from experience that a man "in his cups " is a very 
 disagreeable acquaintance, we hastily summoned to our aid the 
 best "Welsh we could command, and asked a dirty handmaid 
 for " Gwydraid-o-cwrw da," a glass of good ale instead, 
 we were indulged with some sour, stale porter, having drunk 
 which, we hastily made our exit, and bade adieu to Dolbenmaen. 
 Erom this description of Dolbenmaen accommodation, we should 
 strongly recommend the angler to take up his quarters at Pen- 
 morfa or Tremadoc ; at the latter place there is a most excellent 
 inn, the Madoc Arms, where he will meet with every comfort and 
 attention. 
 
 "We have thus indicated a few more places that present attrac- 
 tions to the angler and the lover of nature in the district sur- 
 rounding Beddgelert, but there are others almost equally worthy 
 of a visit wild hill solitudes, dark dreamy hollows, smiling vales, 
 flashing waterfalls, or shadowy mountain tops whither the angler, 
 perchance tired of sport, may repair, and jot down in his memory 
 vivid recollections of 
 
 " Scenes so charming," 
 
 where the mind of the wanderer becomes so deeply impressed with 
 a sense of his own littleness, and where he is ready to exclaim, 
 in the beautiful and impressive language of the Psalmist 
 
 " Lord, how manifold are thy works : in wisdom hast thou made them 
 all, the earth is full of thy riches."
 
 LLYN CWELLYN ITS BOMANTIC BEAUTY. 101 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 LLYN CWELLYN SCENERY NANT MILL CASTELL CIDWM 
 MYNYDD MAWR CHAR TROUT ANGLING GWRFAI SNOW- 
 DON RANGER ASCENT TO SNOWDON BROOK FISHING LLYN 
 DYWARCHEN DRWS-Y-COED NANTLLEF SCENERY OF NANT- 
 LLEF LAKES EXCURSIONS THROUGH PASS LAKE FISHING. 
 
 " High on the south, huge Ben-venue 
 Down to the lake in masses threw 
 Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurled, 
 The fragments of an earlier world ; 
 A wildering forest feathered o'er 
 His ruined sides and summit hoar, 
 "While on the north through middle air, 
 Ben-an heaved high his forehead bare." 
 
 LADY or THE LAKE. 
 
 f Ign CrMIp. 
 
 THERE are few scenes in Snowdonia where finer contrasts, more 
 picturesque effects, are to be observed, than in the vale of Llyn 
 Cwellyn. The scenery in this romantic valley has been compared 
 to that which occurs between Grenoble and Susan ; and, though 
 on a smaller scale, " magnitude is not essential to beauty, nor can 
 sublimity be measured by yards and feet." Llyn Cwellyn, in its 
 various aspects, is a beautiful sheet of water : under some phases, 
 it is scarcely to be surpassed by any other lake in Wales. The only 
 drawback is what Gilpin calls the " lack of furniture," that is, the 
 treeless, naked appearance of the banks j indeed, few trees of any 
 kind are to be seen in the vale, and these wear a stunted, weather- 
 beaten, melancholy appearance. This nakedness, however, is in a 
 great measure relieved by the sublime near aspects of the mighty 
 mountains around, whose bases, covered with verdure, relieve the 
 eye as it rests upon the savage desolation of the higher ranges ;
 
 102 SCENERY OP LLYN CWBLLYN - NANT MILL. 
 
 which bounded on the west by the frowning precipices of Mynydd 
 Mawr, rise in majestic grandeur at the lower extremity of the lake; 
 on the east and north appear the smooth, verdant slopes, and 
 graceful outline of Moel Aeliau, which here divides the valley 
 from its more celebrated neighbour, Llanberis. After leaving 
 Nant Mill, which you pass on your road from Caernarvon and 
 which we shall presently notice by a few passing observations a 
 grand view of Llyn Cwellyn is obtained ; very lovely, then, is 
 this fine lake on a calm summer's evening the tall shadows of 
 the lofty mountains reflected across its mirror-like surface, its 
 placidity perchance broken by the tiny eddies caused by its finny 
 inhabitants, disporting themselves, or feeding on the myriads of 
 insects which hover over its pellucid waters. Llyn Cwellyn, 
 although it lies at the foot of Snowdon, and is nursed and cradled 
 in his lap, is what may be called a lowland lake, or rather a lake 
 of the vale, notwithstanding its comparatively high elevation ; 
 and in many of its external aspects it certainly bears a resemblance 
 to its gentler sister, Tal-y-Llyn. The distant views of the lake, 
 from either extremity, are very beautiful ; but we prefer, upon 
 the whole, the view we have already mentioned, that which sud- 
 denly bursts upon you after leaving Nant Mill. Llyn Cwellyn is 
 of easy approach ; it lies along the high road from Caernarvon to 
 Beddgelert for nearly the whole of its length. It is distant from 
 the former town about seven miles and a half, and it is nearly five 
 miles from Beddgelert to the head of the pool. The tourist will 
 see little to interest him for the first five or six miles from Caer- 
 narvon ; the country is tame and dreary, and although the eye is 
 occasionally relieved by grand distant mountain vistas, yet " the 
 strength of the hills," "the severer forms of mountain scenery," 
 are not fully revealed untill you approach 
 
 celebrated of yore as a " favourite scene for artists," but which, 
 in our opinion, has been vastly overrated. The fact is, there is 
 no mill at all there now ; the ruinous old building indeed is still 
 standing, but the dam which supplied the wheel with water is 
 dry, the weir is broken down, and the mill has been dismantled
 
 SCENERY AT NANT MILL PLAS-YN-Y-NANT. 103 
 
 for some years. Except under certain lights, of rare occurrence, 
 and during a heavy flood over the falls, the scenery of Nant Mill 
 is comparatively tame, and vastly inferior to the really fine views 
 on the lake. Our first impressions of Nant Mill, however, many 
 years ago, were decidedly favourable. We had, in company with 
 a valued friend and relative, now no more, made an excursion from 
 Caernarvon, vid Pen-y-Groes and Llanllyfni, on foot to visit the 
 Llynniau Nant lief. The season of the year was autumn, October, 
 the weather was showery and broken, and the " lights," in alpine 
 districts, usually fine in such weather, were on this occasion more 
 magnificent than we ever remember. After passing the Nantllef 
 Lakes of which more anon and before we reached the Caernar- 
 von road at Rhydd Du turnpike, the rain descended in a deluge, 
 the higher portions of the mountains became wreathed in mist, 
 and, as we descended the road at Nant Mill, we were much im- 
 pressed with the sublimity and grandeur that pervaded the scene ; 
 and the waterfalls appeared to us, as we passed them near the 
 close of an autumnal day, to be really magnificent. If we had 
 viewed this scene by broad daylight, our impressions might have 
 been very different. Subsequent visits have not sustained our 
 " first impressions," and Nant Mill has long ceased to present to 
 our eye any peculiar scenic attractions. 
 
 After leaving Nant Mill, you pass on your left Plas-yu-y-Nant, 
 where formerly stood a shooting or fishing lodge belonging to Sir 
 R. W. Bulkeley, Bart. ; it is now in ruins. The ancient chapel 
 adjacent, also we believe ruinous, is still partly standing. The 
 sites of the house and chapel are embosomed among trees, and 
 therefore not easily discernible from the road. The approach is 
 through a dilapidated gateway, and the whole scene wears the 
 aspect of decay and desolation. Cwm Bychan, a morass, watered 
 by the Gwrfai, lies on the right, and leads to the lake. Hence 
 the road approaches to the shores of Llyn Cwellyn, where 
 
 " No murmur waked the solemn still, 
 Save tinkling of a fountain rill ; 
 But when the wind chafed with the lake, 
 A sullen sound would upward break, 
 With dashing hollow voice, that spoke 
 The incessant war of wave and rock."
 
 104 THE SNOWDON BANGER CASTELL CIDWM. 
 
 Half a mile farther, near the banks of the lake, formerly stood 
 an ancient roadside public-house, known as the " Snowdon 
 Guide," and marked on the Ordnance map. The " chances and 
 changes " of time, however, make havoc with the works of man, 
 and the late occupier of this rude tenement being gathered to his 
 fathers, gave way to his son, Evan Roberts, who has recently 
 erected, nearly on the site of the ancient hostelry, a neat well- 
 built hotel, which he has called the " Snowdon Ranger," and for 
 economy, combined with comfort and cleanliness, may fairly vie 
 with any establishment of its size in the Principality. Situate at 
 the foot of Snowdon, the highest peak of which looks less lofty 
 from hence than from the east side arising, probably, from the 
 greater altitude of the situation the hotel commands a fine view 
 of Llyn Cwellyn, and the magnificent mountains, Mynydd Mawr 
 and Moel Aeliau. 
 
 Cast-ell Cibfom, 
 
 the " Wolf's Castle," on the north-west extremity of the lake, is 
 a prominent object from the " Snowdon Ranger ; " that is the 
 picturesque, rugged, and almost inaccessible precipice on which it 
 stood, for no vestige now remains of the " early British fortress," 
 said to have existed on its summit. We are more inclined to 
 believe, however, from personal inspection, that it was literally 
 what its name imports, a haunt of wolves, which ferocious animals 
 abounded in Snowdonia in olden times, and probably ascended 
 this rock either for safety or in pursuit of goats or deer; for 
 Snowdon in those days was a forest, and the declivities of the 
 mountains were covered with wood, and full of wild game. 
 
 " These scenes are desert now and bare, 
 Where flourished once a forest fair, 
 When these waste glens with copse were lined, 
 And peopled with the hart and hind." 
 
 The vast rounded summit of MYNYDD MAWR, which name 
 signifies the " Great Mountain," sometimes assumes, after rain, 
 the appearance of being slightly powdered with snow or hoar frost. 
 This probably arises from the summit being covered with minute 
 particles of granite or silica, which may produce this singular
 
 DESCRIPTION OF LLYN CWELLYN ITS IMMENSE DEPTH. 105 
 
 appearance. The rays of the evening sun, gilding the highest 
 precipices, frequently present a roseate hue of surpassing beauty ; 
 and when the Queen of Night lends her charms and casts her soft 
 glances in unclouded majesty and grace over the rippling waters 
 of the lake, the dark precipices of Mynydd Mawr glistening under 
 the influence of the silvery light, 
 
 " The wanderer's eye could barely view 
 The summer heaven's delicious blue ; 
 So wondrous wild, the whole might seem 
 The scenery of a fairy dream." 
 
 Llyn Cwellyn derives its appellation from an ancient family of 
 that name, now extinct. An old farmhouse near the head of the 
 pool, called " Cwellyn," was, we believe, formerly the manor-house, 
 but there is now little about it which indicates its original state. 
 Indeed, from appearance, we are rather inclined to believe that 
 the present mean-looking habitation has either been erected over its 
 site, or that it formed a portion only of the ancient manor-house. 
 
 The lake is nearly a mile and a half long, lying in a direction 
 from north-west to south-east. Its circumference may be roughly 
 estimated at about three miles and a half ; but it is in no part 
 more than half a mile wide. Around the shores, the walking is 
 generally good, either turf or a gravelly beach : in some parts the 
 shore is swampy, or strewed with large stones or fragments of 
 rock. From its situation in a vale of moderate elevation, although 
 lying at the foot of lofty mountains, it is difficult to believe in its 
 immense depth. We have been assured, however, that at the 
 lower end, immediately under the precipices of Mynydd Mawr, 
 upon a part of which is the rock called Castell Cidwm, the depth 
 exceeds 130 yards ! At the head of the pool, where it receives a 
 brook containing the superabundant waters of Llyns Dywarchen 
 and y-Gader, the water is rather shallow for some distance from 
 the shore, with a grassy bottom and some weeds. Here the best 
 sport is usually obtained, and the trout which frequent this part 
 are generally larger and in better condition. With the exception 
 of a few stunted bushes, and some solitary hawthorns few and far 
 between, the banks of Cwellyn are destitute of wood. If the 
 shores were planted in certain parts it would add much to the
 
 106 ANGLING IN LLTN CWELLYN CHAR ITS HABITS. 
 
 beauty of the scenery ; but we are afraid, unless the land was 
 well drained and improved, there would be some difficulty in 
 forming plantations. In the middle the lake is very deep, and 
 generally round the sides the water shelves off rapidly to a great 
 depth. In such parts very few fish will rise, although we have 
 occasionally taken trout whilst rowing a boat down the centre of 
 the pool by leaving the rod in the stern : the " way " on the 
 boat keeps the line at full stretch, but care must be taken to let 
 the winch run free, or else you will break off even a small fish. 
 As a general rule, fish as much as possible in shoal water. The 
 best portions of the llyn for angling are at the upper and lower 
 ends, and along the north-east shore for about two-thirds of its 
 length. After passing a walled enclosure for washing sheep, very 
 few fish are taken until you enter the bay at the termination of 
 the pool. 
 
 CHAR are still caught in Llyn Cwellyn, chiefly in the winter 
 season, but not in such quantities as formerly. They will rise occa- 
 sionally to the artificial fly in summer, when they are best in season; 
 but they are rarely taken except by the net. Evan Roberts, of the 
 " Snowdon Hanger," informed us that he caught one during the 
 summer of 1857, near the hotel, in rather deep water. The habitat 
 of the char or torgoch, " Red Belly" as they are termed by the 
 Welsh, is in the deepest part of the lake, near Castell Cidwm, but 
 an old fisherman informed us that in winter he had caught them in 
 a net in different parts of the pool, quite in shoal water. The fact 
 is, they come out of the deeps in winter into the shallow water to 
 spawn, and they are then virtually out of season. This beautiful 
 and delicate fish is only found in lakes that contain very deep 
 water, and as they lie during summer in their deepest retreats, 
 that may possibly be a reason why they do not rise to the fly. 
 The char is a very handsome fish, with a small head, more sym- 
 metrical than a trout, and the red and black spots more brilliant. 
 The belly is red, wherein it differs from its congener the trout, 
 and may be immediately detected by this criterion. They do not 
 run to a large size, at least in Llyn Cwellyn, the general run being 
 from three ounces to a quarter of a pound. The flesh is firm, 
 quite red, and of a delicious flavour. 
 
 TROUT. In April and May, when the lake is full of water
 
 TROUT PRESERVATION OP THE LAKE POACHING. 1 07 
 
 after heavy rains, very good sport may sometimes be obtained 
 from the shore, more especially in the bay immediately opposite 
 the hotel ; but for a good day's sport the use of a boat is abso- 
 lutely indispensable. Trout of large size have occasionally been 
 taken both by the hook and net. Some years ago, an old poacher 
 informed us that he caught a trout weighing seven pounds with 
 the " board;" one also of ten pounds was caught in a net in the 
 bay at the lower extremity of the lake a few years since ; and in 
 the summer of 1857, a farm labourer, in the employ of Mr. Evan 
 Roberts, the landlord of the hotel, caught a very well fed trout 
 of two pounds with the artificial fly, on the shore under Mynydd 
 Mawr. These are, however, exceptional captures ; but we have 
 no doubt that, in a few years, many fine trout will be taken by 
 the rod, if the present judicious management and preservation of 
 the lake is continued. The angling on Llyn Cwellyn has much 
 improved the last three years, that is, since it came under the 
 care of Mr. Evan Roberts. In a few years more, we have no 
 hesitation in asserting, that angling on this lake will be found 
 superior to any other llyn in Caernarvonshire, and excellent sport 
 may be obtained now in May or June, or even earlier, should the 
 season be favourable. Some years ago, Llyn Cwellyn was much 
 injured by the " board " and net. There was scarcely a day that 
 the lake was not poached by quarrymen from Llanberis and other 
 neighbouring quarries and mines. Now, however, the llyn is 
 strictly preserved, and no sort of fishing is allowed except angling, 
 which is, free to all. In consequence of the injury the lake sus- 
 tained from these malpractices, the trout at present do not gene- 
 rally run to a large size. The average weight does not exceed 
 four or five ounces, but some of the trout will vie in beauty and 
 qiiality with those even of the best reputed lakes in the county, 
 Llyn Ogwen excepted. The trout are exceedingly strong and 
 lively, sometimes jumping a yard or more out of the water when 
 struck, and afford good sport from a boat. When we visited the 
 lake in 1857, there was only one good boat on the pool, but the 
 landlord informed us that he intended to put several new boats on 
 the lake during the following season, as much disappointment was 
 occasioned from the want of a sufficient supply. There is no direct 
 charge for a boat if you are staying for a few days at the hotel ;
 
 108 BOAT PISHING VIOLENT SQUALLS SPORT. 
 
 if you come only for the day's fishing, the charge is then two 
 shillings and sixpence, exclusive of the boatman, who is generally 
 satisfied with one shilling. The hire of a boatman is not impera- 
 tive, but optional ; when two or more gentlemen engage a boat, 
 they can generally manage themselves. The wind best adapted 
 for fishing Llyn C welly n from a boat is south or south-east ; a 
 steady westerly breeze is also good, as it enables you to sweep 
 the shallow water at the head of the lake. Llyn Cwellyn is sub- 
 ject to very heavy squalls, more so, as far as our observation 
 extends, than any other lake in the district. When the wind 
 blows fresh from the south-west, it brings on a very heavy swell, 
 which renders rowing against it from a lee shore laborious work, 
 and it is almost impossible to prevent a rapid drift, as the water 
 generally is so deep, twenty to thirty yards from the shore, that 
 you cannot get a "pull" from the anchor. The anchor, so called, 
 is merely a heavy stone -tied to a boat-rope or "painter," which, 
 when thrown overboard in shoal water, drags along the bottom, 
 and thus steadies the " way" on the boat. We have seen " squalls " 
 come down on the lake from the sides of Mynydd Mawr with 
 terrific fury, carrying with them sheets of spray in columns from 
 one shore to the other. At such times boating is dangerous to 
 " greenhorns," and care should be taken to keep well under the 
 windward shore, and avoid letting the boat drift into the white 
 water. We have seldom found fish rise well in very stormy 
 weather on this lake. When you see the waves with " their 
 jackets off," or what is sometimes called the "white horses," it 
 is more labour than profit to angle from a boat. 
 
 We must now say a few words as to the sport we obtained on 
 Llyn Cwellyn in 1857, and the flies we generally used. We 
 must premise that we did not angle on the lake until some time 
 after the best fishing was over; it cannot be expected, therefore, 
 that our success was very great : nevertheless, in the course of 
 several visits, and notwithstanding frequent interruption from 
 wet and stormy weather, we find, on reference to our journal of 
 sport, that we killed fifteen dozen and ten fair-sized fish some 
 of half a pound and upwards besides many small trout that we 
 consigned again to their native element. In the early part of 
 the season, in 1857, we were assured that first-rate sport was
 
 PLIES GROUND FISHING HABITS OF TROUT. 109 
 
 obtained. On one occasion, two gentlemen from Caernarvon 
 severally caught, from two boats, eighty-eight and ninety-one 
 trout on the same day, some of good size. Our greatest take 
 never exceeded two dozen per diem. A moderate breeze, with a 
 cloudy day and light rain, is the best time for sport. Prom the 
 experience we had limited we admit we found the morning 
 " rise " much the best, but sometimes the fish would rise tolerably 
 free in the evening until dusk. A good macintosh, leggings, and 
 a " sou'-wester " cap will keep you perfectly dry in the boat. 
 The flies we found most successful of course we speak of the 
 latter end of the season, August and September were the red 
 spinner and dark mackerel, a most killing fly, dressed either with 
 orange or purple body ribbed with gold twist. The pea-hen, or 
 Llyn Gwynant fly, was also occasionally serviceable; but the 
 mackerel was the favourite fly. 
 
 Some good bottom-fishing with the worm may sometimes be 
 obtained in the Gwrfai the stream that issues from the lake 
 towards the end of September, especially after a " fresh ; " the 
 trout are then leaving the lake to spawn in the river. It is, 
 however, a pity to catch them at this time, although those we 
 saw caught still appeared in pretty good season. It is a singular 
 fact, and one for which we can vouch, that trout in the lake will 
 not look at a worm, at least in the daytime, but as soon as 
 they leave their still retreats and enter into running water, they 
 will bite greedily at ground-bait. We have seen large trout 
 taken with a worm within a few yards of the lake, just where the 
 Gwrfai leaves it. It is difficult to account for this peculiarity in 
 the habits of trout; possibly they prefer in the lake the food 
 they obtain amongst the weeds and moss at the bottom, the lack 
 of which in the stream compels them to seek for worms or other 
 live bait. We may here also mention, that but for the waterfall 
 at Nant Mill, plenty of salmon would ascend the Gwrfai into the 
 lake, and would probably also find their way into Llyn-y-Gader. 
 Mr. Evan Roberts informed us that he had some intention of 
 cutting down a portion of the waterfall above mentioned, in 
 order to afford a passage for the salmon, which could be accom- 
 plished at a small expense. If this project was carried into 
 effect, capital salmon-fishing in the lake would add to its attrac-
 
 110 SNOWDON RANGER HOTEL WELSH MINSTRELSY. 
 
 tions, and the pool in the spring would swarm with salmon peel. 
 In concluding our account of Llyn Cwellyn, which is much fuller, 
 probably, than was ever given before, we have confined ourselves 
 to facts and matters of detail ; and, however slight and imperfect 
 our sketch, we have carefully avoided the regions of romance, 
 and at least truthfully set before the reader the lake as it was 
 at the time of our visit, and the means at present pursued to 
 improve its attractions to the sportsman. If these are fully 
 carried out, we have no hesitation in saying that Llyn Cwellyn 
 will in a few years become the most favourite angling station in 
 North "Wales. 
 
 THE "SNOWDON RANGER" HOTEL. We can affirm, with 
 perfect truth, that we know of very few places in the Principality 
 better adapted to supply the wants of the angler or artist than 
 the " Snowdon Hanger " Hotel. To comfort, you find added the 
 greatest attention and civility from the worthy host and hostess ; 
 indeed, the charges are hardly commensurate with the good fare 
 provided for you. You may live well for six or seven shillings 
 per day, but you can, if you like, " sail still closer to the wind " 
 than that. Of course this does not include wine, beer, or 
 spirits. If you make any stay, we believe you may, if you prefer 
 it, board and lodge on very reasonable terms ; and if you happen 
 to be lucky enough, you can engage a small sitting-room for your 
 own use. Mr. Evan Roberts, the obliging landlord, is well known 
 on the road between Caernarvon and Dolgelley; until lately he 
 drove one of the coaches on this road many years, and was highly 
 respected. During the summer, in 1857, he provided, for the 
 entertainment of his guests, Pugh, the celebrated harper of 
 Corwen, whose dulcet strains upon the three-stringed or Welsh 
 harp now so seldom heard in the Principality especially Welsh 
 airs, were much and deservedly admired. 
 
 ASCENT TO SNOWDON. The path or pony-track from the 
 "Snowdon Ranger" to the summit of Snowdon is tolerably 
 easy, and many tourists now ascend by this route. In 1857, they 
 generally came from Caernarvon under the guidance of a Mr. 
 Hamer, who advertised to ascend Snowdon once a week, 
 "weather permitting," by a new route found out by himself, 
 called " Earner's route," but which we have reason to believe is
 
 BROOK FISHING LLYN DYWARCHEN. Ill 
 
 much the same as the one followed by the guide from the 
 " Snowdon Ranger." At all events, it professes to be " Snowdon 
 made easy." The charges attendant upon an ascent to the 
 summit of Snowdon from the hotel are, we believe, five shillings 
 for a pony, and seven shillings for a guide : many tourists, how- 
 ever, both ladies and gentlemen, prefer to walk. We reserve our 
 account of Snowdon until a future chapter. 
 
 BUOOK FISHING. We have previously described the group of 
 lakes which lie in Cwm Clogwyn, on the south-west side of 
 Snowdon, Llyn Ffynnon Gwas, Llyn Coch, &c. These pools are 
 within a moderate distance from the "Snowdon Ranger," and 
 the route to them is probably easier than the one we traversed 
 from Beddgelert. To such as are fond of " bottom-fishing," the 
 brooks that run from these lakes will afford diversion. Though 
 the trout are small, they are very numerous, and after rain a 
 good basketful may be obtained. After a strong " fresh," some 
 tolerable fly or worm-fishing can also be had in the brook that 
 flows from Llyn-y-Gader to Llyn Cwellyu. 
 
 At the small straggling hamlet called Rhydd Du, which lies 
 on the Beddgelert road, about one mile distant from Llyn Cwellyn, 
 you turn up a narrow turnpike road to the right, which leads to 
 Drws-y-Coed, the "door of the wood," the entrance to the 
 sublime Pass of the Llynniau Nantllef. Before reaching 
 Drws-y-Coed, a little to your right, lies Llyn. Dywarchen, the 
 celebrated " Pool of the Sod," mentioned by Giraldus Cambrensis, 
 in his Itinerary, anno 1188, as containing a "floating island" 
 insula erratica. Most, if not all the guide-books, allude to this 
 wonder, and assert that it is still in existence. Some go so far 
 as to say that sheep get upon it to graze, and are frequently 
 drifted from one side of the lake to the other ! This statement 
 is, however, erroneous. There is now no floating island, nor has 
 there been one for many years. Llyn Dywarchen is small, of 
 irregular shape, and apparently very deep. We only fished it 
 once, on a very hot bright day in June, with a gentle breeze, but
 
 112 DRWS-Y-COED ENTRANCING SCENERY. 
 
 did not obtain even a single " rise." The day of course was un- 
 favourable for sport ; but besides, the trout, which are said to 
 run to a large size, and of good quality, are exceedingly shy and 
 wary, and therefore seldom on the hook. A stormy rough day is 
 the best time to fish this pool. It lies in the midst of a turbary, 
 and its murky waters partake of the colour of the peaty soil 
 which surrounds it. Llyn Dywarchen is indeed scarcely worth a 
 visit for the chance of sport ; bnt the angler is more than amply 
 rewarded with a survey of one of the most romantic scenes in 
 Cambria. 
 
 The entrancing prospect, which suddenly bursts upon you at a 
 sharp turn in the road, from the head of the Pass of Drws-y-Coed, 
 is really superb, and exceeded in grandeur and sublimity by few 
 scenes in Britain. To the right you behold the dark bristling 
 precipices of Mynydd Mawr, called Craig-y-Bera ; the Llyfni, a 
 small streamlet which rises on the south side of the mountain, 
 meanders gently down the Pass at your feet on its course to the 
 Llynniau Nantllef, after running through which, it falls into the 
 sea at Clynnog Vawr, a distance of eight miles. 
 
 " Like streamlet of the mountain north, 
 Now in a torrent racing forth, 
 Now winding slow its silver train, 
 And almost slumbering on the plain 
 Like breezes oi the autumn day, 
 Whose voice inconstant dies away : 
 Yet pleased, our eye pursues the trace 
 
 Of Light and Shade's inconstant race ; 
 
 Pleased, views the rivulet afar, 
 Weaving its maze irregular ; 
 And pleased, we listen as the breeze 
 Heaves its wild sigh through autumn trees." 
 
 Looking towards the farther extremity of this striking scene, the 
 Vale of the Llyfni, you behold the beautiful lakes of
 
 WARNER'S DESCRIPTION OP NANTLLEF PASS. 113 
 
 gtatfbt 
 
 so eloquently described by the gifted author of the " Mountain 
 Decameron," their waters radiant in the sunshine, and the tall 
 shadows of the dark precipices around reflected on their placid 
 surface. 
 
 Warner, in his " Second Walk through Wales," in 1798, thus 
 briefly records his impressions of the scenery at these lakes. 
 After describing the adjacent slate quarries, which even in his 
 time appear to have been extensively worked and "extremely 
 valuable," he says, " From this elevation we descended to the two 
 lakes, stretching one behind the other in an eastern direction. 
 The scenery of these, particularly of the large one, is exquisitely 
 beautiful. Here the eye ranges over a fine sheet of water a mile 
 and a half in length, and above half as much in breadth, sur- 
 rounded on all sides with mountains, whose dark slaty heads 
 tower above it to a sublime height, in shape most singular and 
 fantastic, and in appearance most wild and rude. As they fall, 
 however, towards the lake they drop this savage aspect, and before 
 they unite with it, become verdant slopes, covered with vegetation, 
 ornamented with little cottages, and fringed with various trees." 
 
 The view of these lakes, it will therefore be perceived, up the 
 vale from Llanllyfni is scarcely less striking than from the head 
 of the Pass. We are here tempted to add the following hasty, 
 but graphic and original, sketch from the pen of a lamented friend, 
 an enthusiastic admirer of landscape scenery ; and although this 
 description of Nantllef was written nearly eighteen years ago, 
 and the works of man 
 
 " Like April morning clouds, that pass 
 With varying shadow o'er the grass," 
 
 yet the scene in its essential features " the mountain and the 
 flood " is still the same ; the " glorious works of the Lord " are 
 unchangeable until the end of time. "Each step," observes 
 the writer, " brings you nearer to enchanting scenery. Mynydd 
 Mawr forms the boundary of the valley to the right, and Graig 
 Coch. to the left. The dark cwms and details of the hills present 
 
 I
 
 114 ROMANTIC SECLUSION OP NANTLLEP PASS. 
 
 a constant variety of charming views. The scenery along the 
 lower Nantllef lake is marred by the operations of the slate 
 quarries. In some parts, huge banks of slate rubbish have been 
 driven out on the edge of the lake, and the whole district for at 
 least a mile is a scene of busy industry. There are, we believe, 
 two quarries, Pen-y-Bryn and Tal-y-Sarn, upon the former of 
 which an immense sum has been expended. The upper lake is 
 not deformed by any mean accessories, and its eastern side is 
 finely fringed with wood, which runs up the hill side beautifully, 
 and is a great additional ornament to the landscape. You now 
 enter a Biclch of great magnificence, Snowdon looming in the 
 background with indescribable majesty. The steep of Mynydd 
 Mawr Craig-y-Bera, to the left, is by far the finest example of 
 its class that we have seen in Snowdonia, especially under advan- 
 tageous lights. The Pass increases in wildness and grandeur as 
 you proceed. Alpine scenes of intense seclusion, mountain homes, 
 constantly arrest attention, or awaken thought. A copper-mine, 
 which consists of a level driven into the mountain, is passed on 
 the right : it is only imperfectly worked. Some of the few farm- 
 houses are of high antiquity ; and we were especially struck with 
 one which rests on the hill side near Llyn Dywarchen. Shortly 
 before emerging into the Caernarvon road, we opened Llyn-y- 
 Gader to the right. Rhydd Du pike is seven miles from Pen-y- 
 Groes, and nine miles from Caernarvon. Here it came on to rain 
 furiously, and we had a wet and dreary late walk home through 
 the rain, and were glad when we once more hailed the ' Sports- 
 man,' and got into comfortable shelter about half-past seven in 
 the evening." 
 
 A railway has been constructed within the last few years, be- 
 tween the Nantllef lakes and Caernarvon, and in addition to 
 "business traffic," numerous tourists and pleasure-seekers are 
 attracted to those once secluded and romantic lakes. 
 
 Richard Wilson, R.A. the British Claude, painted his celebrated 
 view of Snowdon from the Pass of Drws-y-Coed. This eminent 
 artist was a native of Mold, in Flintshire, and his remains lie 
 interred in the churchyard there. He died in 1782, setat. 69.
 
 EXCURSION TO LLYNNIAU NANTLLEF. 115 
 
 (faxcaxsian ihtowgjj % |tantllef |)ass. 
 
 In the year 1843, during an angling tour in North Wales, 
 accompanied by a friend, we revisited the lakes of Nantllef. 
 We left Beddgelert early in the morning for the purpose of 
 enjoying a day's fishing at Llyn Cwellyn; but as the day ad- 
 vanced, huge masses of clouds overspread the face of the sky, 
 and the wind blew with so much violence, that we were 
 obliged to forego our intention of angling. We therefore deter- 
 mined to proceed to Caernarvon by the Nantllef pools. Having 
 accomplished the circuit of Llyn Cwellyn, we retraced our steps 
 to Khydd Du. From hence, through the Pass to Caernarvon, the 
 distance is twelve miles, and as the afternoon wore on, we felt 
 the necessity of pushing forwards, as there was every appearance 
 of a wet, stormy evening. As we approached Drws-y-Coed, we 
 were much impressed by the profound gloomy aspect of Mynydd 
 Mawr, the dark purple colouring of which, rendered still more 
 stern and impressive under the dark canopy of storm-threatening 
 clouds which overhung it, caused the mountain to assume a por- 
 tentous appearance. As we proceeded onwards, large drops of 
 rain occasionally fell, and the wind came moaning up the valley 
 in fitful gusts. The lakes in the distance gleamed under the 
 solemn light, and their waters quivered under the influence of the 
 blast. Then it was that we saw this valley under its finest phase, 
 and felt doubly impressed with its sublime aspect. We never 
 before felt so much under the influence of mountain scenery; 
 indeed, we may say, awed. Fortunately the weather favoured us 
 in our journey through the vale; hardly, however, had we got to 
 Pen-y-Groes, when the rain began to descend in torrents, and 
 long before we got to Caernarvon, we were literally drenched to 
 the skin. Never, from that day to the present, have we forgotten 
 our impressions of the scenery of Nantllef and Drws-y-Coed; 
 which, when seen under a lowering light, is scarcely equalled it 
 cannot be excelled by any other valley in Wales. We prefer, 
 upon the whole, the descent into the vale ; the distant view of 
 the lakes is much more interesting and beautiful than the nearer 
 approach you make to them from Llanllyfni. 
 i2
 
 116 ANGLING ITS MEANS AND APPLIANCES. 
 
 " The western waves of ebbing day 
 Rolled o'er the glen their level way ; 
 
 * * * * 
 
 Eat not a setting beam could glow 
 Within the dark ravines below, 
 Where twined the path in shadow hid, 
 Hound many a rocky pyramid. 
 Shooting abruptly from the dell 
 Its thunder-splintered pinnacle ; 
 Round many an insulated mass, 
 The native bulwarks of the PASS, 
 Huge as the towers which builders vain 
 Presumptuous piled on Shinar's plain. 
 For from their shivered brows displayed, 
 Far o'er the unfathomable glade, 
 All twinkling with the dewdrop sheen, 
 The briar-rose fell in streamers green, 
 And creeping shrubs of thousand dyes, 
 Waved in the west wind's summer sighs." 
 
 LAKE FISHING. A few hints on lake fishing, and the 
 "means and appliances" to be employed, may here, perhaps 
 prove acceptable. We offer them as the results of many years' 
 experience. The best rod for a boat is a short one, not too pliant, 
 about twelve or twelve and a half feet long ; the cost of which, 
 including a couple of spare top joints, which should always be 
 handy in case of accident, would be about thirty shillings. George 
 Bowness, of 33, Bell Yard, Temple Bar, has supplied us for many 
 years, and we have found his rods endure hard work well, being 
 made of the best materials, and throw a line beautifully. Mr. 
 Bowness, we believe, has lately retired from business, but his 
 successor may probably supply equally as good articles. Messrs. 
 Jones and Co., Ill, Jermyn Street, we have also heard highly 
 spoken of. It is better to pay a little more for a good even- 
 balanced rod, made according to your own directions, than pur- 
 chase a jim-crack implement cheap, which frequently turns out 
 perfectly worthless. In fishing from a boat especially when there 
 is a lazy inconstant breeze a long line and fine tackle are 
 required, and then it is when the science of the angler is brought 
 most into play, as the difficulty is so to throw that your fly 
 "lights like gossamer" on the water. The way to accomplish
 
 BOAT FISHING SHORE-FISHING. 117 
 
 this desirable result, is to let your line fly to its full stretch 
 behind you before making a fresh cast, and this is accomplished 
 by staying your arm for an instant, so as to allow time for the 
 line to straighten itself. 
 
 If you follow this method, you will not only throw a neat, 
 clean, straight line, but you will seldom or never "crack" off 
 your flies, which bungling anglers frequently do, especially in 
 windy weather. Unless also the line is straight previous to the 
 "cast," it frequently " fouls " or makes a serpentine on the water ; 
 so that should a fish " rise," you would most probably miss him 
 from not being able to strike quick enough. Young fishermen are 
 very apt to be deficient in manipulation, and are frequently dis- 
 appointed or disgusted with their want of success, which arises 
 from non-attention, or want of knowledge of the most useful part 
 of an angler's education, patience and perfect manipulation. 
 Shore-fishing on a lake is often " slow " and monotonous enough, 
 especially where the trout are shy or sulky, and requires both 
 practice, skill, and perseverance to ensure sport. You require a 
 longer rod than in boat-fishing, because you are not only often 
 obliged to throw against the wind, but also, where the water is 
 very shallow for some distance into the lake as at Bugeilyn, 
 for example you require a long rod to enable you to reach the 
 fish. We generally use a rod from thirteen feet and a half to 
 fourteen feet for shore-fishing ; but it does not always follow that 
 the trout lie from the shore. We have often caught large trout 
 close to the edge. A good rod of this description will cost from 
 two pounds two shillings to two pounds five shillings ; a line of 
 spun silk and hair, about thirty-five to forty yards long, is quite 
 sufficient for trout-fishing in Wales, in addition to which we 
 always use a three-ply plaited gut line, about two yards long, to 
 which we aifix our " cast " of flies. A great difference of opinion 
 exists among anglers as to the requisite number of flies to aifix to 
 the "foot link." For shore-fishing, we consider two or three flies 
 ample ; for a boat, not to exceed four ; as we have found from 
 experience that the fewer the number of flies the heavier are 
 the fish taken. Some anglers, boat-fishing, who are very skilful 
 manipulators, sometimes use as many as eight or nine flies ; but 
 it requires very dexterous management to prevent "fouling," and
 
 118 FISHING TACKLE HINTS TO THE SPORTSMAN. 
 
 the use of a landing net adds to the difficulty. We should advise 
 the beginner not to put on more than two flies to his line until 
 after some practice. Where the water is weedy, especially under 
 water, large fish are apt to bore to the bottom after being hooked. 
 In such ground, you should not use more than two flies, as, if you 
 " foul " at the bottom, you are not only almost certain to break 
 off, but in a boat you run the risk of snapping the top joint of 
 your rod, from the line getting under the boat. We have always 
 been in the habit of using a multiplying winch, but some anglers 
 prefer a check one. A multiplier is, however, exceedingly handy 
 in boat-fishing ; but from the shore it matters not which sort you 
 use. The cost of a good multiplier for a moderate-sized trout- 
 rod is from fifteen to eighteen shillings. Never purchase London 
 flies for Welsh lake-fishing, unless they are faithful copies from a 
 Welsh pattern, or from a Welsh natural fly. We have sometimes 
 sent the natural fly to London to copy, and have generally had a 
 good imitation by return of post. . You can be at no loss for flies, 
 however, in Wales. At Shrewsbury, Dolgelley, Bala, Beddgelert, 
 Caernarvon, and other places, excellent flies may be obtained; 
 better in most respects, except gut, than any London flies. We 
 do not mean to say that the flies are so neatly tied, but in colour 
 they are generally far superior. Wading-boots are essential to 
 the comfort of the shore-fisherman : those made by Cording, in 
 the Strand, are durable and watertight, and the best we have 
 met with. To be perfectly comfortable, you require two fishing- 
 jackets ; one made of thick waterproof cloth for cold, wet weather, 
 and another of some cool, light material. Of course there should 
 be waistcoats to match. The weather in Wales is extremely 
 variable; one day it is exceedingly hot, the next one after very 
 cold and wet. Waterproof double-upper-leather shooting-boots, 
 to button or lace in front, are the best for walking over the rough 
 roads and up steep mountain sides. The soles should be well 
 nailed for obvious reasons. These few " wrinkles " we offer for 
 the benefit of the neophyte. There are other essentials which he 
 will soon learn by experience.
 
 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 119 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 AN EXCURSION TO CLYNNOG VAWR, YR EIFL, AND NANT 
 GWB.THEYRN ST. BEUNO'S CHURCH CROMLECH. 
 
 "Methinks some musing wanderer I see, 
 
 Weaving his wayward fancies. Round him rock 
 And cliff, whose grey trees mutter to the wind, 
 And streams down rushing with a torrent ire : 
 The sky seems craggy, with her cloud-piles hung, 
 Deep mass'd as though embodied thunder lay 
 And darken'd in a dream of havoc there." 
 
 THERE are few countries to an Englishman at least that 
 offer greater scenic or historical attractions than Wales. The 
 land of the Cwmry is indeed a region of romance ; her history 
 abounds in stirring episodes, from the remote times of Vortigern 
 down to the untimely end of her greatest monarch, the heroic 
 Llewelyn, and to the successful rebellion of a prince almost 
 equally great, Owen Glyndwr. To such as possess a taste for 
 magnificent and soul-inspiring scenery the interest of which is 
 enhanced by the wild legends and memories of the past or a 
 love of antiquities, " those silent, yet expressive and instructive, 
 records of our forefathers," we cannot too strongly recommend 
 the peculiar charms of this romantic country ; whilst some of the 
 ruined fanes or lordly castles still existing, both in North and 
 South Wales, may vie in grandeur and interest with those in 
 " merrie England." In Celtic remains the antiquary will find an 
 abundant field for exploration, and many interesting pilgrimages 
 may be made to the Beddau, or graves of celebrated warriors, 
 bards, or other distinguished characters. Some of these ancient 
 memorials exist in the wildest and most untrodden districts ; it is 
 our intention, therefore, in the present chapter to introduce the 
 reader to one or two of those " nooks of the world " which are 
 seldom intruded on by the footsteps of the stranger.
 
 120 PILGRIMAGE TO THE GRAVE OF VORTIGERN. 
 
 Some years ago, during a brief sojourn at Caernarvon, we were 
 tempted by the exceeding fineness of the weather to mate an 
 excursion to the summit of Yr Eifl, or " the Rivals," as they are 
 commonly called, and from thence to that "profound, vast, and 
 lonely mountain hollow " lying at their western bases, celebrated 
 as the supposed site of the grave of Vortigern. The season was 
 autumn September and when the weather is fine and settled, 
 we prefer that period of the year to any other for a tour in Wales. 
 
 Accompanied by two friends of congenial tastes, we left Caer- 
 narvon at an early hour, as the objects of our excursion were some 
 miles distant, and from Llanael-haiarn a little village situate near 
 the west coast of the Peninsula of Lleyn, on the road between 
 Clynnog and Nevin we knew we should have some rough walking 
 ere we reached the terminus of our ramble in that wild, romaatic 
 region. The day was cheering, the air cool and invigorating, and 
 in every respect favourable. Snowdonia was seen under striking 
 effects of light and shade ; and the Rivals loomed out darkly in 
 majestic grandeur through the long vista formed in the road, for 
 nearly two miles, by the trees of Lord Newborough's park at 
 Glynllifon. The objects and antiquities on this route are so well 
 described in the Rev. P. B. William's "Caernarvonshire," that 
 we will confine ourselves to a mere hasty glance, en passant, at 
 some of the principal antiquarian curiosities of this secluded 
 district. Nearly opposite Glynllifon, about half-way between 
 Caernarvon and Clynnog, you will observe on the right, at the 
 distance of a mile and a half, near the coast, a strong earthwork 
 or fortified post, called Ddinas Dinlle. This fort is thirty acres 
 in extent, and was a Roman station, supposed to have been con- 
 structed by Agricola ; but the Rivals riveted nearly all our atten- 
 tion as we gradually drew nearer to them. There rose the range 
 ahead of us, of singular majesty and grace of outline, far out- 
 stripping in this respect their English rivals, the Malvern and 
 Breidden hills. From this distant point of view they appear to 
 run into the sea, and bar all progress to the north. Nearer at 
 hand, to the left, rose Gyrn Goch (1,823 feet), a fine mountain 
 with two summits, often confounded with the Rivals, but perfectly 
 distinct, and which run in a different direction, although the two 
 groups harmonize finely, running nearly parallel to the coast.
 
 CLYNNOG - ST. BEUNO's CHURCH BEUNO's CHEST. 121 
 
 Before we reached Clynnog we crossed the Llyfni, the mountain 
 torrent which flows through the Llynniau Nantllef. It seems 
 an inviting stream to the angler, but we are afraid its waters 
 are too much impregnated with the mine-water, which flows 
 from its native source, to abound with the finny tribe ; never- 
 theless, we longed for a ramble along its banks. 
 
 Soon after we pulled up at the " Newborough Arms," the very 
 comfortable and inviting little inn at 
 
 distant ten miles from Caernarvon, and ten miles from Pwllheli. 
 Here we devoted an hour for the purpose of visiting the ancient 
 church and cromlech. With the former we were, on the whole, 
 disappointed, notwithstanding Mr. Pennant's assertion that it was 
 the finest church in Wales. We will not attempt to go into the 
 history of St. Beuno's church. The edifice is cruciform of the 
 latest English style, but presents several incongruities in its 
 architecture, for which we can only account by supposing that it 
 has been altered at several periods. Adjoining the church is St. 
 Beuno's -chapel, at the time of our visit used as a parish school. 
 It was in a state of neglect and decay. The tomb, or reputed 
 tomb, of the saint was standing here at the latter end of last 
 century; it was "plain and altar-shaped:" but Bardsey and 
 Nevin also lay claim to his remains. St. Beuno's chest is the 
 most remarkable relic of antiquity in the church. It is oak, and 
 decaying under the influence of dry-rot, but is strongly secured 
 by iron clamps and three locks. We were also shown a curious 
 old instrument called the gefail own, or dog-tongs. It was 
 formerly the custom to employ these tongs to expel canine 
 intruders during divine service. The points of the tongs are 
 serrated, and we should fancy them capable of inflicting severe 
 punishment. There are fourteen stalls in the church, and amongst 
 the monuments is one to Geo. Rd. Twistleton, 1667, in which 
 the inscription is cut in reb'ef. The screen is of good design, but 
 deformed by a modern railing. The church is surrounded by a 
 large grove of aged trees, which are literally weather-beaten, and 
 almost denuded of foliage to seaward: they produced, on the
 
 122 ST. BEUNO'S WELL BACHWEN CROMLECH. 
 
 whole, a quaint and striking effect. About 200 yards from the 
 church, on the left side of the turnpike road, is St. Beuno's well, 
 which is in a most filthy degraded state, and not worth the 
 trouble of a visit. In olden time, this well was famous for healing 
 the sick, and "particularly for curing the rickets in children." 
 Its peculiar virtues have, however, long since ceased. Leland, in 
 Ms "Itinerary," thus notices Clynnog: "The church that is 
 now there, with cross aisles, is about as big as St. David's ; but 
 it is of a new work. The old church, where St. Beunow lieth, is 
 hard by the new. This is a great parish, and the church is the 
 fairest in all Caernarvonshire, or better than Bangor." St. 
 Beuno was a Welsh saint of peculiar sanctity, who flourished in 
 the early part of the seventh century, founded a college or ban-cor 
 at Clynnog, and afterwards retired to Holy well, in Flintshire. 
 He was uncle to the celebrated St. Winefred, whose miraculous 
 well was one of the "seven wonders of Wales." 
 
 Having concluded a hasty inspection of the church, we pro- 
 ceeded to the cromlech, called the Bachwen Cromlech, which 
 means " holy creek." It stands in a meadow towards the sea- 
 shore, not far from the eylwys, or church, and is in a very perfect 
 state. It consists of four uprights, which support a large hori- 
 zontal stone of triangular shape, gradually tapering off nearly to a 
 point, and resembles, as far as we can recollect, " Kitt's Cotty 
 House," near Maidstone. We could see nothing of a stone 
 pillar, said to be standing near the cromlech by Williams and 
 other topographers. What a curious contrast is presented to the 
 eye and mind of the inquirer whilst surveying these monuments 
 of the past ! Here you behold, almost side by side, the Temple of 
 the living God, erected through the zeal of early Christian piety, 
 and the rude altar-stone set up by the votaries of a blind, 
 degraded, and barbarous superstition. The question is still un- 
 decided whether the cromlechs, as they are termed several of 
 which still lie scattered, in a more or less perfect state, in different 
 parts of the Principality are the grave-stones of eminent chiefs 
 or heroes, or connected with the mysterious religious rites of the 
 Druids. For more than 2,000 years have these relics of ancient 
 days endured the vicissitudes of climate, the fury of the elements, 
 and, to some extent, the hands of the spoiler ; to all appearance,
 
 PASS OP LLANAEL-HAIARN ASCENT OF YR EIFL. 123 
 
 they may still survive for many more centuries. The neighbourhood 
 of Clynnog abounds in antiquities ; amongst others, the Penarth 
 Cromlech, about one mile from the village, near the Llanllyfni 
 road, and a hill-fort at Craig-Cynan. 
 
 On leaving Clynnog, the' road to Kevin runs for some miles 
 between the Gyrn Goch mountains and the sea. The Rivals rise 
 straight ahead, and become more impressive than ever as you 
 approach nearer to them. As you advance, the road, about three 
 miles from Clynnog, winds suddenly from the coast through a 
 fine bwlch, between Gyrn Goch and the Rivals. It is called the 
 Pass of Llanael-haiarn. In the Pass is a primitive roadside inn, 
 the "Waterloo," where we found excellent bread and cheese 
 bara-a-caws oat-cakes, schiedam, and rum and milk. Here we 
 left our car, and having done ample justice to these delicacies, we 
 prepared for our mountain adventures. The pedestrian, espe- 
 cially if he is limited to time, had better leave the main road near 
 the foot of the bwlch, proceed along a lane to the right, and 
 ascend the western Rival over Vortigern's Grave ; which can, we 
 believe, be most easily approached in this direction. We, how- 
 ever, proceeded itp the Pass, through the village of Llanael- 
 haiarn : the church lies close to the road on the left. The 
 distance to this place from Caernarvon is seventeen miles, and is 
 about four miles to Nevin. We now proceeded to ascend the 
 mountain, and crossed the intervening waste. The prospect to 
 the east and south-east was magnificent in the extreme. Imme- 
 diately below us, however, the surface of the Peninsula of Lleyn 
 was mean and flat : this district has evidently been overflowed by 
 the sea at a distant period. A llyn, which stands near a gentle- 
 man's house, and some timber, are the only objects which arrest 
 the eye in its glance towards the Pwllheli coast, except Criccieth 
 Castle, which frowns on its bold sea-rock, opposite Harlech, on 
 which sun-gleams occasionally fell. The view of the Harlech 
 district of mountains was, however, indistinct; beyond, Cader 
 Idris could be made out, and a long and misty line of coast termi- 
 nated the view to seaward. The days are too short in September 
 to attempt a minute survey of Yr Eifl, together with an explora- 
 tion of Nant Gwrtheyrn, so that we were only al!e to find time 
 for the ascent of the central peak of the Rivals, which is sur-
 
 124 - VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT OF YR EIFL. 
 
 rounded by a stupendous mass of debris, and forms as wild a 
 scene as can well be imagined. The Ordnance surveyors have 
 erected a lofty wooden post in a heap of stones on the summit. 
 The post is covered with inscriptions and the initials of numerous 
 visitors. This custom is a habit belonging exclusively to the 
 English. How frequently we see even the most handsome monu- 
 ments disfigured by this vulgar and barbarous practice. 
 
 The view from this elevated spot 1,886 feet above the sea 
 embraced objects of great interest, extent, and variety. 
 
 " To sit on rocks, to muse o'er flood and fell, 
 To slowly trace the forest's shady scene, 
 Where things that own not man's dominion dwell, 
 And mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been ; 
 To climb the trackless mountain all unseen, 
 With the wild flock that never needs a fold ; 
 Alone o'er steeps and foaming falls to lean ; 
 This is not solitude ; 'tis but to hold 
 Converse with Nature's charms, and view her stores unroll'd." 
 
 BYRON. 
 
 We have already described the view to the southward and 
 eastward. To the north and north-east, Snowdon rose without a 
 cloud : an observation which may be extended to all Snowdonia- 
 The Menai Strait was made out through its whole extent, from 
 its entrance in Caernarvon Bay upwards. Anglesea, with Holy- 
 head and Parys Mountain stretched to the north-west. The west 
 and south-west views embraced the wide sweep of Caernarvon 
 Bay, the elevated and mountainous western coast of the Peninsula 
 of Lleyn hill succeeding hill till Bardsey Isle loomed to seaward, 
 beyond the far headland of Aberdaron the Canganum Promonio- 
 rium of Ptolemy. The picturesque shores of St. Tudwal's Bay, 
 with its islands off Pwllheli, were well made out. All these 
 objects were seen under an exquisite light. We, however, 
 observed an extensive range of cumulo-strati which hung to sea- 
 ward, and as the wind (south-west) set in from that quarter, we 
 were not without apprehension that the fine weather which had 
 so far favoured us might not be changed into rain and tempest. 
 How far our apprehensions were realized will be seen in the 
 sequel. At this moment, however, the declining sun threw a flood 
 of radiance on the ocean that greatly heightened the effect of the
 
 TOWN OP FORTRESSES NANT GWRTHEYRN. 125 
 
 land views. The narrow promontory and harbour of Porth 
 Dinllaen with its bay, including the coast line, was a graceful 
 illustration of this. Below us, to the south of the Western peak 
 of the Rivals, yawned 
 
 the vast and profound hollow so eloquently and floridly described 
 by the author of the "Mountain Decameron." To this in- 
 teresting "nook" we now wended our way, as every moment 
 became precious. To be caught in this valley in the dark, 
 was an event we were extremely anxious to guard against ; we 
 were therefore unable to ascend the eastern peak of the 
 mountain, the Tre'r-Ceiri the "Town of Fortresses" which 
 we greatly regretted, but the fast-waning day warned us to 
 depart. Before doing so, however, we will briefly devote our 
 attention to this "most perfect and magnificent, as well as 
 most artfully constructed British post" to be found in Britain. 
 The ascent to the summit appears very steep, and covered 
 with loose debris. At the highest point, the strongest part of 
 the fortification, there is " a double range of walls and entrances, 
 one of the latter being still covered over. Within the circuit 
 are the habitations (small oval houses), and several circles 
 of stones, amounting to fifty or sixty in number. On the very 
 summit is a cairn, whence the body has been abstracted, and below 
 it the remains of a small cromlech." The only accessible side is 
 defended by three walls, which appeared to be very lofty : the 
 area is irregularly shaped. Mr. Pennant, in his Tour of North 
 Wales, made a most minute survey of this ancient British forti- 
 fied town, and also of Nant Gwrtheyrn. Of the latter he says, 
 " embosomed in a lofty mountain, on two sides bounded by stony 
 steeps, on which no vegetables appear, but the blasted heath and 
 the stunted gorse ; the third exhibits a most tremendous front of 
 black precipice, with the loftiest peak of Yr Eifl soaring above. 
 The only opening is the sea, a northern aspect ! where that chilling 
 wind exerts all its fury, and half freezes during the winter the 
 few inhabitants." We can add nothing to the force and truth of 
 this description.
 
 126 VORTIGERN'S GRAVE GIGANTIC SKELETON. 
 
 Nant Gwy Bedd Gwrtheyrn, or " the Brook of the Valley of 
 Vortigern's Grave," is one of the most solemn sequestered spots 
 in Britain. It lies under the south-west base of the central peak 
 of Yr Eifl, and is almost as difficult of approach as it is of egress. 
 It was therefore with a peculiar thrill of excitement that we pre- 
 pared to descend from the lofty eminence on which we stood, into 
 the lonely solitude at our feet. We soon found a sheep path, 
 which led us along the south side of the mountain, and we gra- 
 dually reached the bottom, lost in admiration of the wildness of 
 this awe-inspiring retreat, in which, says tradition, the perfidious 
 British king (A.D. 465) had chosen to hide himself from the 
 merited vengeance of his subjects. As we looked seaward for 
 the ocean laved the extreme boundary of the valley we could 
 hear "the solemn, low, thundering music of the sea's breaking 
 unseen on the far down beach," and soon we saw the agitated 
 waters heave in white-crested surges against the everlasting 
 barriers Nature has provided, and which seemed to say, " Thus far 
 shalt thou come, and no farther !" 
 
 At length we stood on the earthen mound supposed to have been 
 raised over the remains of Vortigern nearly fourteen centuries 
 ago ! As if to corroborate this supposition, Dr. Downes informs 
 us, in his " Mountain Decameron," that " a stone coffin, enclosing 
 a gigantic skeleton, was discovered within that assigned site about 
 a century back, and recommitted to its burial-place ; giving 'a 
 plausibility at least to tradition, supported as that is by the name 
 of the spot, ' Vortigern's Hollow.' " There are, however, now no 
 vestiges of the grave, as far as we could observe, at present 
 existing on the barrow. We longed to be alone ; we felt that 
 
 " There is a rapture on the lonely shore, 
 There is society, where none intrudes, 
 By the deep Sea, and music in its roar." 
 
 As we lingered over the sepulchre of fallen greatness, and listened 
 to the uproar of the wild billows dashing against the front of 
 Craig-y-Llam, a terrific precipice impending over the sea, signs
 
 A THUNDER-STORM IN NANT QWRTHEYRN. 127 
 
 of elemental strife of a still more terrible description almost 
 suddenly presented themselves. Thunder-storms in this region 
 are as sudden as frequent, attracted perhaps by the forked sum- 
 mits of these magnetic mountains.* 
 
 The day was drawing to a close, but a deep gloom came on so 
 suddenly that it made us aware a fearful tempest was on the 
 point of bursting over our heads. The wind, which had pre- 
 viously been blowing freshly from the sea, became calm that 
 treacherous calmness which usually precedes the storm. The music 
 of the wild waves, the melancholy wail of the sea fowl as they 
 skimmed along the surface of the agitated waters, sounded por- 
 tentously upon our ears. The storm-clouds were rapidly coming 
 up over the summit of the lofty steeps above us, against the wind ; 
 the deep valley in which we stood having prevented us from 
 noticing them in time to avoid their fury. Anxious to escape the 
 effects of the tempest we made what haste we could over some 
 stone walls and broken ground from Vortigern's Grave ; but ere 
 we could reach the friendly shelter of a neighbouring cottage, the 
 storm began to rage with a violence rarely equalled, except in 
 mountainous countries. 
 
 " The mists that round yon peak concentring spread, 
 
 Changes portend that mountain-dwellers dread. 
 
 Clouds, dense and lowering, throng the western sky, 
 
 A pause proclaims aerial conflicts nigh ; 
 
 Save when the equal prelude that dismays 
 
 On summits bleak, the winds their voices raise, 
 
 Heard 'mid the stillness, like the sullen roar 
 
 From ocean's distant wave assaulted shore 
 
 Now storms conflicting burst upon the ear ; 
 
 The wild goat hurries to his covert near 
 
 Whilst quivering flags before the tempest bend, 
 
 Bains, with brief warning, torrent-like descend, 
 
 And the loud gust, ascending peal on peal, 
 
 Comes with a might that probes the heart of steel" 
 
 * The Rivals are said to abound in magnetic iron-stone, and it is generally 
 believed by sailors that when ships approach them, the compass becomes much 
 affected. We have ourselves observed a curious phenomenon whilst in the 
 neighbourhood of these mountains. In the finest weather, when not a cloud 
 or vapour was discernible in any direction, small ragged spots or lumps of 
 vapour would suddenly form, and rapidly drift along the sides of the mountain, 
 and then almost as quickly disappear.
 
 128 DESCENT FROM YR EIPL FOX-HUNTERS. 
 
 Vivid forked lightning, succeeded momentarily by prolonged 
 deafening peals of thunder, quickly following each other, and 
 solemnly reverberating amongst the hollows around, were accom- 
 panied by a deluge of rain that drenched us to the skin ; so that 
 no alternative remained but to wend our way out of the valley as 
 soon as possible. The storm fortunately lasted but for a short 
 time, leaving us just enough light, after toiling to the summit 
 from whence we started, to discern in the distance the locale of 
 the "Waterloo" tavern. We now endeavoured to descend 
 between the central Peak and the Tre'r Ceiri ; but, after clam- 
 bering down a steep for about 500 feet, we found, to our dismay, 
 all further progress arrested by a lofty loose stone wall, below 
 which was a precipice, which forbad all further efforts in this 
 direction. We therefore were compelled, tired and almost ex- 
 hausted, to climb up again ; and, after rounding Tre'r Ceiri, we 
 providentially struck a " broad trail," which led us first over some 
 stone walls ; but we discovered a nearer route than the path, over 
 turf fences, which at length brought us into the Bwlch, and to 
 the comfortable shelter of the " Waterloo" inn. 
 
 In going home in the evening, we overtook a fine pack of otter 
 hounds, which had killed two foxes on Gyrn Goch, after capital 
 sport. Several of the huntsmen had long poles, constructed for 
 mountain hunting. We arrived at Caernarvon, after a most 
 exciting day, about half-past nine. 
 
 The Yr Eifl range, although not lofty, assume a bold appear- 
 ance, from their proximity to the sea ; dividing, as it were, 
 the generally flat dreary Peninsula of Lleyn from the flat 
 marshy coast between Clynnog and Caernarvon. Their graceful 
 outline and picturesque appearance render them amongst the 
 most attractive features of Caernarvonshire : but they are rarely 
 visited by tourists, being out of the beaten path, and the Penin- 
 sula of Lleyn is almost a terra incognita. A ramble into that 
 wild primitive country, however, is very enjoyable; its antiquarian 
 treasures are of the highest interest ; and a pilgrimage to Bardsey 
 Isle, an event never to be forgotten.
 
 NANTY GWRYD ITS DESOLATE SITUATION. 129 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 SNOWDONIA PEN-Y-GWRYD DTN AT PEN-Y-GWBYD LAKES 
 ASCENT OF GLYDERS SUMMIT OF GLTDER BACH SINGULAR 
 APPEARANCE TRIFAEN DIFFICULTY OF ASCENT LLYDER 
 VAWR Y-WAUN OER LLYN CWM FFYNNON. 
 
 " Some ruder and more savage scene, 
 Like that which frowns round dark Lochskene : 
 There eagles scream from isle to shore, ' 
 Down all the rocks the torrents roar ; 
 O'er the hlack waves incessant driven, 
 Dark mists infect the summer heaven ; 
 Through the rude barriers of the lake, 
 Away its hurrying waters break, 
 Faster and whiter dash and curl, 
 Till down yon dark abyss they hurl ; 
 Rises the fog-smoke white as snow, 
 Thunders the viewless stream below." MARMIOIC. 
 
 "BARKEN, solitary, dignified Nature," in her ruder aspects, is 
 aptly portrayed in the desolate Nanty Gwryd. The gigantic 
 mountains around, 
 
 " Stern and full of dread," 
 
 lift above it their bare and rugged heads, and fold it, as it were, 
 in their embrace ; and the wanderer, as he slowly travels on his 
 way towards the Pass of Llanberis a scene of still wilder gran- 
 deur and sublimity may call to mind the cold and selfish world 
 he had left for a brief space, to enjoy that quiet and tranquillity, 
 that freedom from the carking cares and anxieties of human 
 existence, amidst the solitudes of the mountainous wilderness we 
 now propose to explore. In the midst of this solitudiuous region 
 
 E
 
 130 PEN-Y-GWRYD INN PAST AND PRESENT STATE. 
 
 formerly stood a wretched roadside ale-house, known as " Pen-y- 
 Gwryd Inn." Occasionally a weary, benighted tourist, after the 
 toilsome ascent of the Pass of Llanberis, would direct his steps 
 to it, glad to receive such shelter and entertainment as the slender 
 resources of the place afforded. In process of time, however, 
 and in accordance with the march of improvement, which is gra- 
 dually spreading over the nooks and byeways of Wales, the 
 humble roadside pothouse becomes transformed into a very com- 
 fortable inn ; where not only the wayfarer meets with civility and 
 attention, but even in the culinary department he will have no 
 reason to complain. The enterprise of the landlord, Henry 
 Owen, has in a great measure accomplished this desirable result ; 
 and, in a few years more, we confidently predict that "Pen-y- 
 Gwryd Inn" will occupy a still more important position amongst 
 the hotels of Snowdonia. The inn is happily situate at the junc- 
 tion of three roads, severally leading to Beddgelert, Llanberis, 
 and Capel Curig. It is literally an oasis in the wilderness, a 
 palm-tree in the desert, a solitary spot of verdure, snatched by 
 the industry of man from the wreck of Nature; and notwith- 
 standing its elevation for it is oftentimes in the clouds and its 
 exposure to the frosts and snows of winter, you will observe 
 several kinds of garden flowers and vegetables flourishing luxu- 
 riantly ; and hereafter, we have little doubt that human industry 
 will still further improve the out-door character of the place. 
 Behold us, then, reader, comfortably installed in a neat parlour at 
 "Pen-y-Gwryd Inn," which, though small, is sufficient for our 
 wants, discussing, with a zest and appetite unknown to any save 
 a mountain wanderer, the savoury viands prepared by the hands 
 of Mrs. Prichard, our host's mother-in-law an old dame who, 
 in days of yore, was a domestic in the service of Thomas 
 Pennant, Esq. of Downing ; whose fame, at the close of the last 
 century, as an antiquary and topographer, is so well known and 
 appreciated. 
 
 Whilst we are occupied in discussing our repast (a leg of 
 mountain mutton), which an eight miles' walk from Beddgelert 
 has caused us to do ample justice to, let us draw the attention of 
 the reader to a few of the more prominent attractions which a 
 sojourn of a few days at this healthful and really delightful
 
 PEN-Y-GWRYD ITS ATTRACTIONS LAKES. 131 
 
 locality ought to make him acquainted with. In a previous 
 chapter we pointed out Pen-y-Gwryd as an angling station, and 
 though it does not possess resources equal to one or two other 
 localities we have previously described, yet the fisherman, if he 
 can "rough" it among the mountains, will sometimes be able to 
 obtain fair sport. But even this sequestered and thinly-peopled 
 district is not free from that pest to the angler, the "Board," 
 and more or less, all, or nearly all the neighbouring llyns are 
 poached. Peny-Gwryd has, however, several other claims to 
 favourable mention besides the pursuit of angling. To " the fond 
 lover of Nature's charms," to the botanist and the artist, we 
 scarcely know a more attractive spot, being in the midst of the 
 greater portion of the most celebrated scenery of Snowdonia, and 
 within easy distance of all of it. The inn is situate at the foot 
 of those lofty sterile mountains, Glyder Vawr and Bach, the ascent 
 to the summits of which forms a delightful excursion. Then 
 there is the ascent to Snowdon, by Llyn Llydaw and Glas Llyn, 
 the " Azure Lake," under the awful precipices of Moel-y-Wyddfa, 
 "one of the finest scenes in Britain" a scene of stupendous 
 grandeur and fearful sublimity, in some respects unequalled in 
 Wales. The gloomy and savage scenery around the solemn and 
 sullen Llyn Idwal may also be explored, and the Pass and Lakes 
 of Llanberis. The botanist will revel in the acquisition of rare 
 ferns and other plants in the vicinity of PJiaiadr Cwm Dyli and 
 the "Vale of Waters," at the head of Llyn Gwynant; and the 
 artist will obtain some charming points for the exercise of his 
 pencil in the same neighbourhood. These are a few of the most 
 attractive features, which we now only slightly glance at ; but it 
 will be our pleasure hereafter to accompany the reader, and 
 examine more minutely the varied beauties and wonders of the 
 several localities we have enumerated. 
 
 The lakes in the neighbourhood of Pen-y-Gwryd worthy the 
 notice of the angler, are few in number ; these are Llyn Gwynant 
 and Llyn Edno, previously described, Llyn Llydaw, Llyn Cwm 
 Ffynnon, and Llynniau Duwaunedd, on the east side of Moel 
 Siabod. The little river Gwryd, which takes its rise in Llyn 
 Cwm Ffynnon, is also worthy of mention. Of these lakes, the 
 only one now possessing boats is Llyn Gwynant, one of which 
 
 K'2
 
 132 LLYN CWM DWYTHWCH PASS OF LLANBERIS. 
 
 belongs to Henry Owen, who, in 1857, placed a boat on the lake 
 for the accommodation of anglers frequenting his inn. The dis- 
 tance to the lake through Nant Gwynant is about two miles and 
 a half. The old road, which runs lower down the valley than the 
 new one, is perhaps shorter, but we prefer the turnpike road. 
 As either road is a continuous descent to the lake, you will find 
 the walk home, unless you prefer a car, rather sharp "collar 
 work." 
 
 Our first sojourn at Pen-y-Gwryd was in 1849, before the inn 
 was partly rebuilt and enlarged. At that time the accommoda- 
 tion consisted of a small, rudely-furnished room, and two or three 
 bedrooms of the same primitive character. In those days com- 
 paratively few anglers or tourists frequented it, beyond merely a 
 passing call for a glass of cwrw, or some bara-a-caws. We made 
 an excursion hither from Bangor, taking the wild mountain road 
 from thence to Dolbadarn, situate near the narrow neck of land 
 which separates the upper and lower Lakes of Llanberis. After 
 passing a few hours at the "Dolbadarn Castle" inn, we deter- 
 mined to visit 
 
 flgn Cfom <jpfegtfrfoefj, 
 
 a small pool lying in a peat morass under the precipices of Moel 
 Aeliau, where, from local report, we expected to meet with some 
 good fishing. We were, however, doomed to be disappointed, 
 for, after lingering two hours at the llyn, we came away with only 
 one small trout in our basket. In the evening, we proceeded up 
 the Pass of Llanberis to Pen-y-Gwryd, distant six miles. As the 
 day was hot and sultry, we did not leave Llanberis until seven 
 o'clock, and as we slowly travelled up the Pass, lost in admiration 
 of the sublime mountain scenery on either side, it was dusk when 
 we arrived at our humble quarters. A hearty welcome from our 
 host, Henry Owen, a good supper, consisting of -homely eggs and 
 bacon, and some excellent cwrw, soon made us forget our 
 fatigue ; and an early acquaintance with bed found us perfectly 
 refreshed in the morning, and ready for an ascent to the summit 
 of Glyder Bach, a description of which, in Pennant's tour, had 
 awakened a strong curiosity to visit it.
 
 GLYDER BACH PENNANT'S DESCRIPTION. 133 
 
 to % summit of dSIgbu $at|r. 
 
 GLYDER VAWR and GLYDER BACH are two of the loftiest and 
 most rugged mountains in Snowdonia ; the former, according to 
 the latest survey, being 3,300 feet, and the latter 3,000 feet, 
 above the level of the sea. The frosts and rains of ages, com- 
 bined with other elemental agency, have operated upon the 
 external face of these elevated mountains, flocks have been 
 shivered to pieces, huge masses or protuberances, called " horns," 
 stand out occasionally from the sides of the mountains, and frag- 
 ments of rock of all sizes strew the sides and bottom, which 
 renders progress at times painful and difficult. This is one of 
 the sternest regions of desolation in Britain a wilder or more 
 impressive scene imagination cannot conceive. Pennant thus 
 describes the summit of Glyder Bach, and though this eloquent 
 description was penned as far back as nearly eighty years ago, we 
 found it as accurate as it is forcible : " The plain which forms 
 the top is strangely covered with loose stones, like the beach of 
 the sea, in many places crossing one another in all directions, and 
 entirely naked. Numbers of groups of stones are almost erect, 
 sharp-pointed, and in sheaves ; all are weather-beaten, time-eaten, 
 and honeycombed, and of a venerable grey colour. The elements 
 seem to have warred against this mountain rains have washed, 
 lightnings torn, the very earth deserted, it, and the winds make it 
 the constant object of their fury. The shepherds make it the 
 residence of storms, and style a part of it Carnedd-y-Gwynt, or the 
 ' Eminence of Tempests.' " 
 
 The morning proved exceedingly favourable for our projected 
 ascent. Huge masses of clouds, some of which slightly rested on 
 the summit of the mountain, with occasional bursts of sunshine, 
 and a gentle breeze, the bracing and invigorating effects of which 
 greatly assisted us in our progress, left nothing that could be 
 desired. At nine o'clock A.M. the order was given to march, 
 and, accompanied by our compagnons de voyage, two friends, and 
 our guide, Henry Owen, we started on this most interesting 
 mountain excursion. Previously to leaving home, we had made a
 
 134 ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF GLTDEB BACH. 
 
 rough pen and ink sketch of the engraving in Pennant's tour of 
 the tall " columnar stones " on the summit of Glyder Bach, to test 
 the accuracy of the description given in the text : this, we need 
 hardly say, was fully realized ; not a stone seemed moved out of 
 its place since Pennant's visit, nearly eighty years before. After 
 leaving Pen-y-Gwryd, our route lay over a peat morass, through 
 which flows the Gwryd on its course to the Llynniau Mymbyr, 
 commonly called the Capel Curig Lakes. After crossing the 
 river, we soon commenced the ascent of the mountain, which, 
 though rough, was less toilsome upon the whole than we expected. 
 After proceeding slowly for at least two hours, we neared the 
 summit, and resting for a brief interval under one of the "horns," 
 refreshed ourselves with some deliciously cold pure spring water ; 
 which, slightly flavoured with cognac, proved very refreshing. 
 The water we partook of flowed, or rather welled, out from the 
 mountain side, creating one of those green oases so pleasing to 
 the eye amidst the verdureless waste with eternal barrenness and 
 desolation around it. Here we paused to survey the grand array 
 of huge mountains, which rise up and encompass this elevated 
 region in almost every direction. Amongst the chief attractions 
 of this magnificent scene were Snowdon and his attendant Alps ; 
 the lovely Nant Gwynant, and its lake ; Moel Siabod, " its sides 
 and base covered with verdure, its upper part a great pile of 
 broken rocks ;" and the lakes and mountains in the neighbourhood 
 of Capel Curig. We now gradually neared the area on the 
 summit, which we found covered with groups of columnar stones, 
 some of vast size, from ten to thirty feet long, lying in all direc- 
 tions. The scene before us, in fact, resembled the ruins of some 
 vast Druidical temple a mountain Stonehenge which had been 
 overthrown ages ago by some awful convulsion of nature. Indeed, 
 so strong was our impression that we were in the midst of 
 venerable Druidical remains, that it was some time ere we could 
 convince ourselves that what we saw was in reality a chaotic mass 
 of stones thrown into inconceivable confusion the work of time 
 and the violence of the elements. Pennant's description is so 
 truthful, that we cannot do better than give it. " I climbed up," 
 says he, " one of these stones, twenty-five feet long and sk broad, 
 and stamping it with my foot, felt a strong tremulous motion from
 
 SINGULAR APPEARANCE OP SUMMIT - TRIFAEN. 135 
 
 end to end. Another, eleven feet and six in circumference, was 
 poised so nicely in the thinnest part on the point of a rock, that, 
 to the appearance, the touch of a child would overset it. One 
 side of the mountain is formed into a gap, with sharp rocks 
 pointing upwards to a great height." The stone Pennant alluded 
 to lies in a horizontal position, supported by nine or ten upright 
 stones, forming a sort of natural altar. On this stone we also 
 climbed, and stood with reverential feelings on the very point of 
 the stone that this eminent topographer and antiquary trod full 
 eighty winters before. This natural carnedd of columnar stones 
 would appear to be of basaltic formation, as other portions of the 
 steep sides of Glyder Vawr, overhanging the Pass of Llanberis, 
 "exhibit ranges of basaltic rocks, much convulsed, and one 
 columnar cluster stands apart from the rest, quite upright." 
 Several rocky fragments which have fallen down into the Pass are 
 described as being sixty feet in length, exhibiting " marvellous 
 variations in colouring and outline." 
 
 " It is a barren scene, and wild, 
 Where naked cliffs are rudely piled." 
 
 Having spent nearly an hour in the examination of this won- 
 derful work of nature, we proceeded to the northern side of 
 Glyder Bach, from whence we had a sort of bird's-eye view of 
 the summit of 
 
 the singular conical mountain which rises from the vale far below. 
 This mountain in fact is a spur, or gigantic "horn" of the Glyder. 
 The ascent to the summit of Trifaen is both arduous and difficult, 
 and requires considerable nerve, as the mountain on all sides is 
 exceedingly precipitous. Two columnal stones on its peaked 
 summit, similar in formation to those on the Glyder, are frequently 
 mistaken by travellers on the Holyhead road which runs at the 
 foot of the mountain for human figures. Some years ago, a 
 gentleman who had ascended Trifaen, performed the hazardous, 
 foolhardy exploit of jumping from one of these stones to the 
 other. If his foot had slipped, or he had lost his balance, he
 
 136 VIEW FROM SUMMIT OF GLYDER BACH. 
 
 would have been dashed to pieces on the rocks below. Trifaen 
 derives its name from these remarkable stones ; formerly there 
 were three of them, hence the name. We now obtained a mag- 
 nificent view of the romantic Nant Ffrancon, the "Beaver's 
 hollow," the celebrated Llyn Ogwen, famed for its trout, and the 
 lofty summits of Carnedds Llewelyn and Dafydd. At our feet, 
 in a tremendous hollow, lay Llyn Bochlwyd, and on our left we 
 beheld the vast precipice called Castell-y-Geifr, the " Castle of 
 the Goats," which connects the Glyders with Llyder Vawr. This 
 lofty eminence, upwards of 3,000 feet in height, hangs over the 
 dark waters of Llyn Idwal, situate in the most savage solitary 
 cwm in Wales. 
 
 Mr. Roscoe, in his " Wanderings in North Wales," describes, 
 in glowing terms, the marvellous contrasts, the sublime effects, of 
 this wild, solitary region. " Situated in the very gorge of the 
 craggy and beetling heights, the aspect of this lake had a 
 thoroughly wild and sombre appearance, and produced a corres- 
 ponding feeling in the mind. It was a combination of the pic- 
 turesque and terrible, not unsuited, in its sternest mood, to the 
 genius of Salvator. Had the foot of Wilson penetrated these 
 grand recesses of Caernarvon hills, the noble taste of that enthu- 
 siast of nature must have seized some of its striking features. . . . 
 The antique bridge, the wooded abyss, the picturesque coloured 
 rocks, and the Trifaen, with its giant semblance of the human 
 features ; and through the terrific chasm below, the Ogwen pour- 
 ing in three foaming cataracts, down heights of above 100 feet, 
 into the green spreading meadows below." 
 
 We now proceeded to the verge of Castell Geifr, and reposing 
 here for a short time, we surveyed with pleased emotions the sublime 
 scenery around, and at length reluctantly turned on our homeward 
 route, passing over Y-Waun Oer, the " cold, chilly waste," as it 
 is fitly termed by the native shepherds. Y-Waun Oer is the con- 
 necting between that of the Glyder, called Glyder Bach, and the 
 loftier portion of this vast double-headed mountain, Glyder Vawr. 
 We at length reached the summit, passing near Clogwyn-Du- 
 Ymhen-y-Glyder, " as dreadful a precipice as any in Snowdonia." 
 The surface of the highest part of Glyder Vawr, we found compara- 
 tively smooth, but it wore a tempest-beaten, sterile aspect. From
 
 DESCENT OF THE GLYDEB LLYN CWM FFYNNON. 137 
 
 hence we had a fine view of the Pass of Llanberis, and the country 
 to the west, including Caernarvon and its majestic castle. We 
 descended in high spirits down a precipitous cwm or hollow in the 
 mountain again partaking in the descent from a well of crystal- 
 line purity towards Llyn Cwm Ffynnon, a small pool near the 
 foot of the mountain, about half a mile from Pen-y-Gwryd inn. 
 From this dark, savage, stormy-looking sheet of water, the river 
 Gwryd takes its rise. We finally regained our quarters about 
 half-past five o'clock P.'M., amply repaid for our exertions, and 
 fortunate in our choice of a day on which, from its beauty, and the 
 extreme purity and clearness of the atmosphere, mountain scenery 
 appeared to such advantage. 
 
 " Fill'd with the face of heaven, which, from afar, 
 Comes down upon the waters ; all its hues, 
 From the rich sunset to the rising star, 
 Their magical variety diffuse : 
 And now they change ; a paler shadow strews 
 Its mantle o'er the mountains." BtRON.
 
 138 DESCRIPTION OP LLYN LLYDAW. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 LLYN LLYDAW ANGLING EXCURSION INCIDENT SCENER7 A 
 MOUNTAIN CLIMBER LLYN CWM FFYNNON RIVER GWRYD. 
 
 " This sober shade 
 
 Lets fall a serious gloom upon the mind. 
 Such are the haunts the mountain wanderer loves." 
 
 THIS fine lake, 
 
 " Embosomed in the silent hills," 
 
 reposes in a dark and gloomy recess under the north-east preci- 
 pices of Snowdon. The pool is about one mile long not one 
 mile and a half, as some guide-books have it and is of pro- 
 found depth. It is narrow, and contained a few years since a 
 small islet near the south-east shore, which from time immemorial 
 was the summer haunt of black-backed gulls. We have previously 
 described these birds in our excursion to Llyn-yr-Adar. Since 
 our visit to this lake, in 1849, we found on revisiting it, in 1857, 
 a considerable alteration. There is a copper-mine on the north- 
 west side of the pool, on the path to Llyn Pfynnon Glas and the 
 summit of Snowdon, and the miners, to facilitate their approach 
 to the mine, have lowered the depth of Llyn Llydaw from four to 
 five yards, to enable them to make an embankment across the lake 
 near the north-east extremity, at its narrowest part. Across this 
 embankment is the road to the mine, and it is now also the path 
 of the guides to the summit of Snowdon. The lake is thus 
 divided into two parts, and might, with some propriety, be called 
 Llynniau Llydaw Vawr and Yach. In consequence of the lake 
 being drained to the extent of at least from twelve to fifteen feet 
 of water, the islet has become a portion of the mainland, and its
 
 ROUTE TO LLYN LLYDAW GORPHWYSFA. 139 
 
 former inhabitants, the gulls, finding their retreat insecure, have 
 deserted the place altogether. It is not unlikely that these were 
 the birds we found at Llyn-Yr-Adar. In 1849, there was also a 
 large flat-bottomed miner's boat, used to transport the ore and 
 the workmen across the lake ; this has disappeared, there being 
 now no further use for it, since the lake has been divided by the 
 embankment. 
 
 imt ta ITIgtt JTIgbafo. 
 
 Our first acquaintance with Llyn Llydaw occurred in 1849, an 
 account of which, and the sport we obtained, we now proceed to 
 furnish. We started from Pen-y-Gwryd on a fine cloudy morning, 
 with a mild southerly breeze ; after getting upon the mountain 
 road, a few light showers occasionally fell, and 
 
 "All the air was breathing halm." 
 
 The distance from Pen-y-Gwryd inn to Llyn Llydaw'is about three 
 miles, and the road, for the latter part of the route, is rough in 
 some places from being covered with loose stones. You first 
 proceed for about one mile and a half up a continuous ascent, 
 along the Pass of Llanberis as far as Gorphwysfa, which signifies 
 " the resting-place." Here you can " rest," if you feel inclined, 
 at a roadside public-house, where coaches and cars generally pull 
 up after toiling over the highest and steepest part of the Pass, 
 known as the Bwlch-y-Gwyddyl. The road to Llyn Llydaw here 
 turns off to the left, and the distance to the nearest part of the 
 lake is about one mile and a half. The steepest portion of the 
 ascent is, in fact, accomplished on your arrival at Gorphwysfa; so 
 that upon the whole, the road to the llyn is much easier than you 
 would imagine, considering its elevation. Near the lake, you see 
 below on your left, a row of mean-looking deserted miners' cot- 
 tages, overlooking a small pool called Llyn Teyrn. This pool con- 
 tains trout, and sometimes sport may be had ; but we did not try 
 it, there not being at the time any breeze. Soon after you come 
 in sight of Llyn Llydaw, its dark -green sullen waters finely con-
 
 140 ANGLING IN LLYN LLYDAW BAD SPORT. 
 
 trasting with the terrific precipices surrounding it, blackened and 
 scathed by the storms of ages. 
 
 " The mountain shadows on her breast 
 Were neither broken nor at rest ; 
 In bright uncertainty they lie, 
 Like future joys to fancy's eye." 
 
 On our arrival we were soon made aware of the presence of 
 numerous gulls, by the discordant screams they set up, their 
 clamour increasing when they saw us land upon the islet, which 
 we did by means of the large flat-bottomed punt before mentioned. 
 Mr. Pennant, in his account of Snowdon, alludes to the presence 
 of gulls of the black-backed species on this islet. Here we put 
 our rods together, and prepared for a cruise upon the lake. A 
 gentle breeze curled its waters, and we commenced fishing on the 
 south-east side near the islet. The trout, however, were sullen, 
 notwithstanding the favourable weather, and after several hours' 
 hard flogging, and trials of several sorts of flies in the vain attempt 
 to lure the finny tribe from their crystal retreats, we only suc- 
 ceeded in capturing two brace of small trout. We afterwards 
 learned that we had fished the wrong end of the lake ; the trout 
 are much larger and of better quality at the north-east extremity, 
 what now in fact constitutes that portion of the lake separated by 
 the embankment, and which, for distinction, we have named Llyn 
 Llydaw Vach. 
 
 For Alpine grandeur and sublimity for picturesque effects of 
 the higheikcharacter Llyn Idwal, Llyn Llydaw, and Llyn-y-Cae, 
 are unqueWonably the three finest scenes in Wales. Of these, 
 the most sublime and terrible in aspect is Llyn Idwal; but 
 scarcely\less inviting to the student of nature in her severer 
 moods are the sister lakes, Llyn Llydaw and Llyn-y-Cae. Re- 
 posing under the steeps of the two most celebrated mountains in 
 Wales, these lakes, to a certain degree, possess an advantage over 
 the gloomy Llyn Idwal : this advantage, however, is fully coun- 
 terbalanced by the savage cleft, Twll-Du, and the still wilder 
 character of the rocks and precipices which surround it. From 
 our boat in the middle of Llyn Llydaw, for awhile we forgot our 
 more immediate object, being lost in admiration of the magnifi- 
 cent mountain the "Monarch of the Hills" towering mime-
 
 SINGULAR INCIDENT AT LLYN LLYDAW. 141 
 
 diately above. The sun, which had shortly before broken out 
 from amidst a canopy of clouds, dispersed the white vapours 
 which had previously obscured his summit, and there he stood, 
 with all his majestic beauty of outline, before our enraptured 
 gaze. We must, however, leave it to the imagination to picture 
 the magical effects produced by the combination of lights and 
 shadows, the chiaro scuro of this sublime mountain wilderness. 
 To be deeply impressed with the scenery of Llyn Llydaw, it must 
 be seen from the water. 
 
 Revenons a nos moutons. A short time after we gave over 
 angling, we approached the west shore for the purpose of landing ; 
 our object being to obtain a view of Llyn Ffynnon Las, which is 
 higher up, and lies in another deep basin more immediately under 
 the precipices of Y-Wyddfa. As we neared the shore, steering for 
 the mouth of the brook which flows from Llyn Efynnon Las, an 
 incident occurred, which, though sufficiently ludicrous at the 
 time, might have been attended with unpleasant consequences. 
 When about twenty or thirty yards from the shore, we observed 
 a young colt about three months' old without its dam, which 
 we supposed it had for the time lost, come galloping down 
 to the edge of the lake, neighing at us with all its might, 
 and before we could prevent it, the poor creature jumped into 
 the water and made for the boat. Our first intention was to 
 sheer off, hoping that the colt would discover its mistake for 
 it evidently had mistaken us, that is, the boat, for its mother 
 and return to the shore. But to our astonishment and annoy- 
 ance, the colt persevered ; and as we had by this time rowed out 
 at least forty yards from land, the creature still pursuing us, we 
 were obliged to return and meet it, as its strength was fast giving 
 way, and in a minute or two more it would have sunk. As it was, 
 we were just in time, and having run alongside the animal, Owen, 
 our guide, got hold of it by the head, and we, with the help of 
 our companion, by the tail, and after some exertion, we at length 
 safely hoisted him aboard. The next step to take was to land 
 him ; but as soon as he was fairly on terra firma, he was again 
 seized with the same strange desire to board us ; and if we had 
 left the shore, there is little doubt he would have again followed 
 us as far as he could swim. At last it was suggested that Henry
 
 142 TROUT IN LLYN LLYDAW POACHING. 
 
 Owen should be despatched to look for the dam, and fortunately he 
 found her in a few minutes afterwards. The mare had got out of 
 sight over some high rocky ground, and the colt had strayed from 
 her towards the lake. After a hearty laugh at this strange adven- 
 ture, and sundry jokes had passed, we recrossed to the other side of 
 the pool, picked up our younger companion, whom we had left 
 upon the islet amusing himself with the gulls, and finally returned 
 home to our quarters about four o'clock ; one of our companions 
 jocosely remarking, that if we could not catch trout in Llyn 
 Llydaw, we had caught something " very like a whale." 
 
 The general aspect of Llyn Llydaw resembles that of several 
 other alpine lakes we have visited Llyn-y-Cae, for instance 
 being in almost every part exceedingly deep close to the shore. 
 The Llyn, in common with almost all the lakes in this district, is 
 poached by the " board." During our last visit to Pen-y-Gwryd, 
 in September, 1857, a very fine dish of trout apparently of good 
 quality, the weight of some of them being from half a pound to 
 three-quarters of a pound, and similar in colour and appearance 
 to those caught in Llyn Gwynant were brought for sale to the 
 inn by two quarrymen, who stated that they had taken them with 
 the "board" in Llydaw, at the north-east end. They told us that 
 the fish were generally small and inferior in the larger portion of 
 the lake. We did not try this llyn in 1857 ; there was no boat : 
 the walking round the shores is rough, and besides, being late in 
 the season, the prospect of sport was very dubious. We have 
 very little doubt, however, that earlier in the year, from all we 
 could learn, as good sport may be obtained in Llyn Llydaw as in 
 Llyn Gwynant. The best season for the angler is, from the 
 middle of May to the middle of July. 
 
 Llyn Llydaw lies at a considerable elevation, probably not less 
 than 2,500 feet above the sea, and is perhaps the largest alpine 
 lake in Wales. The dark and stormy character of the scenery 
 around it, the singularity of its bleak, gloomy situation, its 
 waters often lashed into fury by the impetuous howling blasts 
 which rush down from the lofty beetling crags which overhang it, 
 ridge above ridge running upwards, dark and terrible in aspect, 
 until they meet where the towering Y-Wyddfa rises in majestic 
 grandeur, proclaim the workmanship of Him
 
 DESCRIPTION OF A MOUNTAIN ENTHUSIAST. 143 
 
 " Who layeth the beams of his chambers in the waters, and maketh the 
 clouds his chariot, and rideth upon the wings of the wind." 
 
 During our stay at Pen-y-Gwryd a few years ago, we made the 
 acquaintance of a gentleman, a clergyman of the Church of 
 England, who was possessed with a most extraordinary mania for 
 climbing mountains. He would make, for instance, Pen-y-Gwryd, 
 Capel Curig, Llanberis, and several other stations in Snowdonia, 
 his head-quarters for a week or ten days, until, in fact, he had 
 " exhausted the scenery." Picture to yourself a tall man, about 
 fifty-two years of age, of a wiry, spare habit, rather slightly built, 
 dressed in a pair of dingy slop trousers, a linen spencer of the 
 same complexion, without hat or covering of any sort for the head, 
 no neck-tie, his shirt-collar unbuttoned, with an enormous Alpen- 
 stock or climbing pole, seven or eight feet in length, in his hand, and 
 you may perhaps be able to form some idea of the strange grotesque 
 figure we have endeavoured to describe. His object was, to use 
 his own expression, "to follow the sky line" of every mountain 
 he visited. For example, he would ascend Snowdon from Llan- 
 beris, but instead of following the beaten track, he would take 
 the edge of the mountain along the verge of the highest preci- 
 pices, following what he called the "sky line" until he reached 
 the summit ; he would then descend the other side of the moun- 
 tain towards Beddgelert, in a similar manner. He most frequently 
 performed his excursions alone, although occasionally, when not 
 so familiar with the locality, he availed himself of the services of 
 a guide. He would follow up these rambles de die in diem, 
 regardless of the weather, and was generally on his legs from 
 about nine A.M. until eight P.M. The most extraordinary thing 
 was, how he could keep up such violent daily exercise without 
 any refreshment whatever during the period he was among the 
 mountains. To prevent thirst, he carried a small pebble in his 
 mouth ; and Henry Owen, the guide, assured us that he never saw 
 him partake of anything to eat or drink, not even a cup of cold 
 water, whilst on an excursion. We have several times met him 
 on his return to the inn, drenched with perspiration, and whilst 
 his dinner was being prepared, he would continue at gentle exer- 
 cise (staff in hand), to "cool down" like a race-horse after a 
 "breather" preparatory to partaking of his repast in fine
 
 144 LLYN-CWM-PFYNNON ITS SITUATION. 
 
 weather generally al fresco exhibiting not the least apparent 
 fatigue. He was a man of very temperate habits : two or three 
 glasses of sherry were the extent of his libations ; he avoided 
 smoking, and he would be up early in the morning performing his 
 ablutions for several hours. He appeared to have no other object 
 in climbing to the wild mountain tops than merely (as he said) to 
 behold the wonderful works of the Almighty. Such was the 
 remarkable individual with whom we became acquainted at Pen-y- 
 Gwryd. We found him a most refined, intellectual companion, 
 well read and informed on all subjects of general interest, 
 thoroughly versed in Welsh topography, and in his demeanour 
 most affable and courteous. He informed us that he spent several 
 weeks annually in North Wales, following up the same pursuit 
 mountain climbing, either revisiting old scenes, or finding out, if 
 possible, some fresh mountain path still more difficult and arduous 
 to surmount than what he had previously attempted. In following 
 the "sky line," no rocks, however rough, no precipices unless 
 perfectly inaccessible ever daunted him. .This singular mania 
 or hobby horse, he appears to have followed up for years, and 
 continued with unabated ardour. The last time we saw him was 
 on a wet, stormy morning, preparing to " hie away to the moun- 
 tain's brow," on his route from Pen-y-Gwryd to Capel Curig ; the 
 said route being the " sky line" over the summit and entire length 
 of the lofty Moel Siabod. 
 
 We have stated in a former chapter, that Pen-y-Gwryd would 
 afford fair sport to the angler at the proper season. We have pre- 
 viously described Llyn Llydaw and Llyn Gwynant ; and it now 
 only remains for us briefly to notice Llyn-Cwm-Ffynnon, and the 
 little river Gwryd. We have already described the character of 
 the scenery around the lake, which is bleak and dreary enough. 
 It is situate at the foot of the Glyder, in the midst of a peat 
 morass, and when the lake is low in summer it is quite impossible 
 to fish its northern boundary, on account of the turbary. Indeed, 
 except at the south-east corner, where there are some precipitous 
 rocks, which in one part almost abut upon the water, the walking
 
 DESCRIPTION OF LLYN CWM PFYNNON THE GWRYD. 145 
 
 along shore is mostly over the peat bog, which in wet weather 
 becomes impassable. On the north-west shore for a short distance 
 there is a low ledge of rocks washed by the llyn, off which, on 
 one or two occasions, we have killed a few fair-sized trout. The 
 lake in this part is rather weedy and shallow. Llyn Cwm Ffynnon 
 is small scarcely two furlongs in length from north to south, and 
 not much above half that distance in breadth. The trout, though 
 generally small, have been described as "good and often free." 
 We, however, are obliged to confess that we have found them 
 neither the one nor the other. The usual size of the fish is about 
 a quarter of a pound ; some, we believe, have been taken larger. 
 We have fished this water several times during the best season 
 (June), but we never succeeded in capturing more than two or 
 three brace on any occasion. The trout are exceedingly sullen, 
 and the angler's skill and patience are alike exhausted in the 
 attempt to lure them to the surface. It is very possible that 
 poaching may have caused the trout to become shy ; at all events, 
 we never visited the lake without finding one or two men in 
 possession of some of the best water, zealously pursuing their 
 unlawful occupation with the "board." We. never had many 
 " rises" on this pool, nor have ever observed the fish rising freely 
 to the natural fly. From this circumstance we deduce that either 
 the trout are comparatively scarce or extremely shy. Llyn Cwm 
 Ffynnon is situate at a very convenient distance from Pen-y-Gwryd 
 Inn, not more than three-quarters of a mile, and the ascent to it, 
 over some rather wet boggy ground, is not particularly steep. 
 We cannot, however, as far as our experience goes, hold out any 
 hope of much sport. There is a very fine view of Snowdon to 
 be seen on a clear day from the south-east side of the pool ; this 
 alone renders Llyn Cwm Ffynnon at least worth a visit. 
 
 The bleak and dreary waste, Nant-y-Gwryd, watered by the 
 infant Gwryd a stream flowing, as most rivers do in Cambria, 
 from a solitary mountain lake until its waters expand into the 
 Llynniau Mymbyr presents little to attract the eye of the tra- 
 veller as he passes on his way to Capel Curig. Sheep or mountain 
 
 L
 
 146 NANT-T-GWETD ITS DREARY ASPECT. 
 
 cattle are amongst the few living objects to be seen on this 
 moorland solitude, roaming wherever inclination leads them on 
 these wild uplands ; occasionally a lone farmhouse, or deserted 
 Hafodtai, few and far between, present themselves, but 
 
 " The world, and all that love that world, 
 Are far away." 
 
 The country is sparely inhabited ; and, were it not for the shoals 
 of tourists who roll along the road in their cars and carriages 
 during the summer months, enlivening in some degree the mono- 
 tonous stillness that prevails at other periods, you might not 
 meet with a single human being for miles. The Gwryd swarms 
 with trout close to the inn; and as it becomes larger in its 
 course through Nant-y-Gwryd to the Llynniau Mymbyr, being 
 fed by several smaller brooks, on the "lanes" of deep water 
 which occasionally occur in its course, large trout are sometimes 
 taken with the fly or worm, particularly during a flood. These 
 fish are supposed to have run into the river out of the lakes. 
 We have frequently had tolerable sport with the fly about two 
 miles below the inn ; the trout, though rather small, are pretty, 
 well fed fish. The angler fond of " bottom" fishing may soon fill 
 his basket,by merely keeping out of sight of the quick-eyed trout, 
 and begin his pursuit at less than five minutes' walk from the 
 inn. Lower down the vale, especially near Pont-y-Gwryd, he 
 may also regale himself with a magnificent prospect of Snowdon 
 and the adjacent lofty mountains. We take it for granted that 
 every true lover of the angle is also an admirer of fine scenery.
 
 SNOWDON DERIVATION OF ITS NAME. 147 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 SNOWDON USUAL ASCENTS SERMON ON THE MOUNTAIN GUIDES 
 SUPPOSED DANGERS OF ASCENT GRANDEUR OF SCENERY 
 EXCURSION TO SUMMIT VIEW FROM Y-WYDDFA. 
 
 " I climb'd the dark brow of the mighty Helvellyn, 
 
 Lakes and mountains beneath me gleam'd misty and wide; 
 All was still, save, by fits, when the eagle was yelling, 
 And starting around me the echoes replied." SCOTT. 
 
 THE " hill king " of Cambria, Snowdon, is termed by the native 
 Welsh Craig-Eira, which means the "snowy mountain;" hence 
 the Saxon appellation, Snowdon. Some writers, however, have 
 asserted that Snowdon and the adjacent range of mountains are 
 called Creigiau-yr-Eryri, the " eagle's cliffs ; " but Pennant, whose 
 authority ought to be indisputable, says the former is the correct 
 appellation. Whatever might be the case in olden time, eagles 
 are never seen soaring over the peaks of Snowdon nowadays ; 
 therefore " snowy mountain " is at all events the more significant 
 title. The highest peak of Snowdon is 3,571 feet in elevation 
 above the sea-level, according to Ordnance admeasurement, and 
 is therefore 779 feet below the level of perpetual snow ; so that 
 it is not true as has been erroneously asserted that snow may 
 be found in some of its clefts throughout the year.* Never 
 theless, even in the middle of summer, the temperature is some- 
 times low. The thermometer has been observed at 34 just after 
 sunrise, and even in August as low as 48 early in the afternoon 
 
 "Snowdon, as its name implies, is covered with perpetual snow." 
 MED WIN'S Anyler in Wales.
 
 148 SNOWDON SUPPOSED PERILS OP THE ASCENT. 
 
 " In 1850, snow fell here in June ; " a phenomenon, we should 
 suppose, of rather rare occurrence. 
 
 MOEL-Y-WYDDFFA, "the bald head of the conspicuous summit," 
 is the highest mountain elevation in South Britain ; and several 
 eminent topographers, amongst others Pennant and Bingley, have 
 favoured the world with glowing and eloquent descriptions of 
 their ascents to it. It may therefore appear presumptuous on 
 the part of a humble disciple of Isaac Walton to attempt the 
 description of an excursion to the summit of this celebrated 
 mountain; but we are encouraged to do so, partly because we 
 have had some experience, having ascended Snowdon on several 
 occasions from different points, and also because we are anxious 
 to record our impressions of the scenic effects we have observed 
 from the summit and on the route less frequently described than 
 the others, the ascent from Pen-y-Gwryd. 
 
 In perusing the accounts given by the older topographers, of 
 the difficulties to be encountered in the ascent of Snowdon, one 
 cannot help being amused with the air of exaggeration, the inflated 
 terms employed in their descriptions, leading you almost to believe 
 the ascent to be as difficult and dangerous as if you were ascend- 
 ing one of the Alps in Switzerland. Even the usually accurate 
 Pennant is scarcely free from the charge of exaggeration in 
 recording the "perils" of the ascent. Far be it from us, how- 
 ever, to question the merits of Pennant's narrative ; for, taking it 
 altogether, it far exceeds in descriptive power any account we 
 have ever perused. It must be remembered, also, that during 
 the last century and even down to the earlier portion of the 
 present one, the ascent of Snowdon was seldom undertaken by 
 the English tourist. The " Saxon in Wales " was rarely to be 
 seen in those days ; Welsh tours were not much in vogue ; and 
 few indeed of those individuals who did find their way into North 
 Wales, ventured upon the ascent of Snowdon. We must not, 
 therefore, be much surprised at the timidity exhibited, or the 
 "nervous horror" which pervaded the minds of such of those 
 early pioneers who have recorded their experiences of the ascent 
 of Snowdon, or his almost as celebrated neighbour, the "giant 
 Cader Idris." 
 
 There are four usual ascents of Snowdon that is, the routes
 
 EXTEMPOBARY SERMON ON THE SUMMIT OP SNOWDON. 149 
 
 followed by guides viz. from Llanberis, Beddgelert, Pen-y-Gwryd, 
 and the " Snowdon Ranger," on the shores of Llyn Cwellyn. The 
 Capel Curig route is vid Pen-y-Gwryd ; it is, however, four miles 
 longer. Of these, Llanberis enjoys by far the greatest share of 
 popularity, for two reasons ; the first is, that from thence it is 
 indisputably the easiest ascent; and secondly, the expense is 
 comparatively trifling. These two powerful persuasives will 
 always preserve to Llanberis the largest amount of patronage. 
 The Llanberis route, however, has this drawback; it is, in our 
 opinion, inferior in sublimity either to Beddgelert 'or Pen-y-Gwryd. 
 The majority of topographical writers, among whom we may 
 mention Bingley, have, however, ascended Snowdon from Llan- 
 beris, and some of them have selected this route in preference. 
 Bingley also ascended from Llyn Cwellyn, Dolbadarn, and Bedd- 
 gelert. In consequence of " low fares " and " easy gradients," a 
 very large majority of tourists and pleasure-seekers ascend from 
 Llanberis, 200 or 300 a day during the height of the season 
 being no unusual amount; and as many have, on one or two 
 occasions, been on the summit of the mountain at the same time. 
 We were told by one of the Beddgelert guides that, a few years 
 ago, a church dignitary preached extempore a very eloquent 
 sermon from Moel-y-Wyddfa, to a numerous congregation, select- 
 ing for his text, " Behold the Lamb of God ! " What an interest- 
 ing occasion! What an opportunity for the preacher to dwell 
 upon the " mighty works " of Him in whose hands 
 
 " Are all the corners of the earth : 
 And the strength of the hills is his also." 
 
 From this it will appear that the romance of the ascent to 
 Snowdon belongs to the past. The summit of the mountain is 
 absolutely mobbed in the summer and autumn ; and such as prefer 
 a quiet journey must seek it in the evening, hold communion 
 with the Queen of Night, view the stars, "the poetry of heaven," 
 flickering above the misty mountain peaks, and watch for the 
 effects of early sunrise " the solemn splendour of colouring, the 
 chaotic prospect around " in stillness and solitude. 
 
 Within the last few years, two or three of the Llanberis guides 
 have erected some rude huts, called the " Snowdon Hotel," on
 
 150 THE SNOWDON HOTEL VIEW FROM SUMMIT. 
 
 the highest peak, adjoining the Ordnance carnedd, or heap of 
 stones, in the centre of which is a tall signal-post, where tea and 
 coffee, ale, porter, spirits, and other refreshments, can be obtained. 
 Of course you cannot expect these commodities at the usual 
 prices, the labour of conveying them to so great an altitude being 
 taken into consideration. Where such a number of hungry and 
 thirsty visitors are congregated, the demand is great, the prices 
 commensurate; and we have no doubt that the guides have 
 found it a good speculation, and reap a rich harvest during the 
 season. You can also "procure a bed," if you are desirous of 
 remaining on the mountain all night ; but, as there is only one 
 bed, in a very small, rude apartment, as far as we know, the great 
 majority of the visitors who arrive over or during the night are 
 obliged to " rough " it in the best way they can. The charge, if 
 we recollect rightly, is six shillings and sixpence, for bed and 
 breakfast. The appearance of the huts is unsightly; and the 
 solitudinous stillness of the "lonely mountain top" the great 
 charm to us in mountain excursions is now, in a great measure, 
 destroyed. The innovations of man, however, cannot alter in 
 this alpine region the external charms of nature. The prospect 
 from Moel-y-Wyddfa presents the same magnificent combinations 
 the same majestic views of mountains, valleys, lakes, and 
 streams, bounded by the sea, or the faint outlines of the wild 
 Wicklow mountains in the far distant western horizon until the 
 eye of the observer almost strains itself in the vain attempt to 
 look beyond them. 
 
 In some of the guide-books we find emphatic warnings of the 
 " dangers " of the ascent " even in the finest weather it is dan- 
 gerous to do so without a guide." We may here remark that 
 these assertions are entirely erroneous. Snowdon is sometimes 
 for days together entirely free from clouds or vapour ; it was so 
 in 1857 ; and we have on several occasions ascended to the 
 summit alone from different routes, without the least danger or 
 inconvenience. The fact is, the various paths to the summit are 
 now so well worn, the "trail" so distinctly marked, that on a 
 fine day it is almost impossible, especially if you have any 
 previous knowledge of the locality and the various landmarks, to 
 mistake your path. In a day of " darkness and of gloominess,"
 
 EXPENSES ATTENDING AN ASCENT OF SNOWDON. 151 
 
 when fogs, rolling from the sea, infold the mountain in their 
 chilly embrace, or at night, a guide is then, of course, indis- 
 pensable; but comparatively few persons in stormy weather, 
 think of encountering the ascent. 
 
 Before we proceed to give a description of one of our excur- 
 sions to the summit of Snowdon, without a guide, it may be useful 
 to oifer a few hints as to the expenses attendant on a guide and 
 ponies from the different stations we have named. The charge 
 for ponies is, we believe, the same at all the inns ; viz. five shillings 
 to the summit, if practicable; but, if you proceed over the 
 mountain say, for instance, from Beddgelert to Llanberis the 
 charge is then doubled. The guides' fees vary. From Beddgelert, 
 the guides charge seven shillings to the summit; if afterwards 
 they proceed with a party to Llanberis or Pen-y-Gwryd, the fee is 
 ten shillings ; sometimes, when there is a large party, a higher 
 sum is voluntarily paid. A night ascent to Snowdon from Bedd- 
 gelert is ten shillings, which is moderate enough. The expense 
 of a guide from Pen-y-Gwryd a much more fatiguing ascent, and 
 nearly the same distance is only five shillings. Llanberis is far 
 in advance on the score of cheapness. When a large party join 
 together, as is almost always the case, the guides' fee for a single 
 individual is a mere trifle. The charge from the " Snowdon 
 Ranger." is about the same as Beddgelert. From Capel Curig, 
 which is a great deal the longest journey, the guides' charge, we 
 believe, is ten shillings. The guides are also usually provided 
 with some refreshment, either on the route, or at the summit. 
 Ponies may be ridden from Llanberis or Llyn Cwellyn, to the 
 highest summit of the mountain these routes being by far the 
 easiest. From Pen-y-Gwryd, it is desirable to dismount on 
 reaching Llyn Ffynnon Las, as the path from thence becomes 
 rough, steep, and very narrow. From Beddgelert, the visitor 
 may ride nearly, if not quite, to the top; but many nervous 
 persons proceed on foot after arriving at the narrow ridge called 
 Ckwdd-Coch, a part of the route formerly so much dreaded by 
 tourists. On this subject, Mr. Bingley remarks, " There is no 
 danger whatever in passing Clawdd-Coch in the daytime, but I 
 confess that I should by no means like to venture along this tract 
 in the night, as many do who have never seen it. If the moon
 
 152 GUIDES NIGHT ASCENTS OP SNOWDON. 
 
 shone very bright, we might, it is true, escape unhurt; but a dark 
 cloud coming suddenly over would certainly expose us to much 
 danger. Many instances have occurred of persons who, having 
 passed over it in the night, were so terrified at seeing it by the 
 daylight the next morning, that they have not dared to return the 
 same way, but have gone a very circuitous route by Bettws 
 [Bettws-Garmon, we presume he means]. I was informed that 
 one gentleman had been so much alarmed, that he crawled over it 
 back again on his hands and knees." In reply to this statement, 
 notwithstanding it is backed by the opinion of such a distinguished 
 authority as Bingley, we confidently affirm that, in ordinary 
 summer weather, there is not the slightest danger by night, 
 whether by moonlight or not, with an experienced guide ; and, as 
 Beddgelert possesses three most excellent ones, all rejoicing in 
 the name of Jones, the most timid person need not feel in the 
 least alarmed whilst crossing over the narrow ridge of Clawdd- 
 Coch. We ourselves have repeatedly seen both ladies and gentle- 
 men leave Beddgelert even so late as nine o'clock, P.M., and 
 when the night afterwards was both dark and cloudy, under the 
 safe conduct of one of these guides. It usually occupies from 
 three and a half to four hours, to reach the summit of Snowdon 
 from Beddgelert at night. In the daytime, the distance, about 
 six miles, is frequently performed in from two and a half to three 
 hours. It would thus appear, from the accounts given by Bingley, 
 Warner, and others, that the " terrors " of the ascent have been 
 much magnified ; that, in reality, there is nothing formidable in the 
 ascent of Snowdon in fine weather ; nothing to terrify the most 
 nervous person. Surely the nerves of tourists in former days 
 were made of much more fragile materials than the modern ones. 
 The view of Snowdon from the Beddgelert road is unquestion- 
 ably the finest near view that can be obtained of the " Monarch 
 of the Hills." This view occurs about one mile from Pen-y- 
 Gwryd inn. Not only is the magnificent outline of the mountain 
 more clearly and exquisitely defined, but you obtain a more perfect 
 prospect of the neighbouring eminences, the group of mountains 
 forming Snowdon, Crib-y-Dystul, the " Dripping Peak," Crib 
 Coch, the " Red Summit," and y-Lliwed, the peak third in height 
 after y-Wyddfa, and forming the highest point of the range of
 
 WARNER'S ACCOUNT OF HIS ASCENT OF SNOWDON. 153 
 
 precipices along the whole northern face. Crib-y-Dystul is the 
 highest point in elevation next to Moel-y-Wyddfa. The eye in 
 passing to these lofty peaks, is refreshed with a charming view of 
 Nant Gwynant and its beautiful lake in the distance, and in the 
 immediate foreground, the fine falls of the Avon Las Rhaiadr- 
 Cwm-Dyli which come tumbling and foaming over the lofty 
 precipices above, in their descent to the "Vale of Waters." 
 
 The distance from Pen-y-Gwryd inn to the summit of Snowdon 
 is about six miles, and there can be no question notwithstanding 
 the assertion of one or two of the guide books, that the ascent 
 from Beddgelert is "the most difficult" that in this respect, 
 during the latter part of the route, the path is much more steep 
 and rugged from Pen-y-Gwryd than from any other point. 
 
 Mr. Warner, in his " Walk through Wales," in the autumn of 
 1797, made an ascent from a different point to any we have read 
 in the various published tours, and judging from the description 
 he gives, it appears to have been exceedingly toilsome and diffi- 
 cult. As far as we can understand his narrative, he, in the first 
 place, followed the turnpike road from Beddgelert, passing on his 
 way Ddinas Emrys, " a huge perpendicular rocky mountain, 
 finely shaded with wood," and the "beautiful pool of Llyn-y- 
 Ddinas," nearly to the road leading to Llan farm, which is situate 
 at the entrance to Cwm Llan. Here he struck into a path to the 
 left, near a meeting-house and cottages ; by this track he toiled 
 to the summit of Snowdon. It lies between the peak of Yr Aran 
 and the "deep hollow" of Cwm Llan to the right. He thus 
 describes the ascent : " The summit of Snowdon, towering above 
 us to the north, had hitherto been involved in a fleecy cloud, which 
 hung around it in the manner of a curtain, undulating with the 
 wind. This now appeared to be drawn up higher than it had yet 
 been, and to rest like a crown on the very point of the mountain ; 
 the misty mantle being likely to melt away altogether before the 
 sun, which was now approaching towards his meridian. Our 
 guide observed, that should we determine to visit the top of 
 Snowdon, we should find the ascent much more steep and dis- 
 agreeable than the regular road [from Beddgelert] ; that notwith- 
 standing, it was a practicable way, and had been trodden by some 
 travellers before us The first stage of our journey was up
 
 154 WARNER'S ASCENT SUBLIME SCENERY. 
 
 a rugged steep by the side of a mountain torrent, which, falling 
 from ledge to ledge, stunned us with its unceasing noise. The 
 principal branch of Yr Aran [y-Lliwed], little- inferior to his 
 mighty neighbour, heaved his unwieldy bulk into the clouds on 
 the right hand ; under which a frightful hollow, called Cwm-Llan, 
 spread its hideous profundity, stretching a mile and a half in 
 length, and nearly as much in breadth, a precipice of Suowdon 
 forming one of its black perpendicular sides. We contemplated 
 
 this scene with marks of astonishment and dread After two 
 
 hours of very severe labour we gained the summit of Suowdon, 
 a sharp narrow crag of rock, not more than two yards over. Our 
 toil, however, seemed at first to be ill repaid; a crown of clouds 
 still covered the top, and we remained involved in a mist that 
 
 produced the most intense cold In this truly hyperborean 
 
 climate we waited half an hour, at the instigation of our guide, 
 who assured us the cloud would shortly leave the head of the 
 mountain ; the mist gradually sailed away, and left us to contem- 
 plate for a few minutes, a wide unbounded prospect, diversified 
 with mountains and valleys, cities, lakes and oceans. . . . We were 
 not long indulged with this free, uninterrupted gaze ; the cloud 
 again came rolling on, and the covering soon became thicker and 
 darker than hitherto, and our guide warned us to descend with all 
 expedition, lest we should be involved in a storm amid these 
 exposed unsheltered regions. We accordingly proceeded through 
 the gloom, following the steps of our conductor, who walked im- 
 mediately before us, as we literally could not see the distance of 
 a dozen feet. The situation was new to us ; it produced, however, 
 an effect that was very sublime. Occasional gusts of wind, which 
 now roared around us, swept away for a moment the pitchy cloud 
 that involved particular spots of the mountain, and discovered 
 immediately below us, huge rocks, abrupt precipices, and profound 
 hollows, exciting emotions of astonishment and awe in the mind, 
 which the eye, darting down an immense descent of vacuity and 
 horror, conveyed to it under the dreadful image of inevitable 
 destruction." 
 
 Very erroneous impressions of the altitude of Snowdon, as 
 compared with some of the mountains in the Scottish highlands, 
 are to be met with in some of the earlier works on Welsh topo-
 
 EXCURSION TO THE SUMMIT OP SNOWDON. 155 
 
 graphy. Thus Warner, amongst others, calls Snowdon the 
 " highest mountain in the three kingdoms ; " and Cader Idris was 
 almost universally believed to be second only in height to Snowdon 
 amongst the Cambrian Alps. There are, however, nine or ten 
 mountains in Scotland that are all loftier than Snowdon ; four of 
 them are considerably higher. Ben Mhuicdhu, in Aberdeenshire, 
 is 4,418 feet; Ben Nevis, Invernesshire, is 4,358 feet; and Cairn 
 Gorm, in the same county, is 4,050 feet. Ben Lawers, in Perth- 
 shire, is nearly as lofty, being 3,944 feet. Ben Mhuicdhu, on its 
 highest point, is sixty-eight feet above the limit of perpetual 
 snow, and Ben Nevis is also a few feet above that altitude. 
 
 ln dfonrrsiott ta fyt Summit of .gwofobim:. 
 
 Our ascent of Snowdon from Pen-y-Gwryd was unpremeditated. 
 It was on a very fine morning, about the middle of August, 1857, 
 that we started from Beddgelert with some intention of angling 
 in Llyn Cwm Ffynnon, near Pen-y-Gwryd. We were, however, 
 on a " roving commission," and circumstances might occur which 
 would possibly alter our intention. We were much struck during 
 our walk certainly one of the most delightful in Wales with 
 the magnificent " lights " which prevailed over the landscape, the 
 gorgeous colouring, the crispness, if we may use the expression, 
 of the outlines of rocks and mountains, woods, lakes, and glens, 
 which we passed in succession. Never before had we felt so 
 much impressed with the majesty of Snowdon. "A scene like 
 this," eloquently remarks the author of the " Beauties, Harmonies, 
 and Sublimities of Nature," " commands our feelings to echo, as 
 it were, in unison to its grandeur and sublimity ; and the trans- 
 ports of imagination seem to contend for the mastery, and nerves 
 are touched that never thrilled before." As we silently proceeded 
 on our journey, we saw that this was one of those marvellously 
 brilliant days which occur only at rare intervals in mountain dis- 
 tricts, and which, from the humidity of the atmosphere, generally 
 portend a change in the weather. By the time we had arrived at 
 Pen-y-Gwryd our mind was made up, our piscatorial intention 
 was abandoned, we resolved to dare an ascent of Snowdon. As 
 we had never before ascended from this side of the mountain, a
 
 156 SUDDEN CHANGES OF WEATHER PENNANT. 
 
 few queries to our host, Henry Owen, were requisite. We were 
 acquainted with the route as far as LlynLlydaw, but not farther; 
 however, a few directions from Owen, and a careful survey of the 
 Ordnance Map, convinced us that no apparent difficulty presented 
 itself; and after a frugal meal, and a glass or two of excellent 
 cwrw to fortify us against the fatigue of the ascent, we prepared 
 for our excursion. Whilst, however, we were thus refreshing 
 ourselves, one of those sudden changes in the weather occurred, 
 so frequent in mountainous countries, which almost caused us to 
 alter our intention. A change in the wind had taken place ; it 
 had veered to north-west, and brought on a thick fog, which boiled 
 down the sides of the mountain and rapidly enveloped Snowdon 
 in a mantle of mist. In reference to these sudden changes of 
 weather, Pennant says, "It is very seldom that the traveller gets 
 a propitious day to ascend Snowdon ; for often, when it appears 
 clear, it becomes suddenly and unexpectedly enveloped in mist by 
 its attraction of clouds, which just before seemed remote and at 
 great heights. At times I have observed them lower to half their 
 heights, and notwithstanding they have been dispersed to the 
 right and to the left, yet they have met from both sides, and 
 united to involve the summit in one great obscurity." What was 
 to be done ? To ascend Snowdon in such weather was simply 
 impossible in fact it was useless. Whilst we were hesitating as 
 to whether to proceed or not, Robin Hughes, the celebrated Cape! 
 Curig guide, hove in sight, convoying three ponies, upon which 
 sat a lady, a gentleman, and a very pleasing intelligent-looking 
 boy. We immediately accosted Hughes, and asked him if it was 
 his intention to attempt the ascent in such weather. He replied 
 that the lady and gentleman were determined to proceed if pos- 
 sible, and added that he thought the fog was below the summit 
 of the mountain ; that he had no doubt the y-Wyddfa was per- 
 fectly clear and cloudless, and probably the fog would disperse 
 almost as suddenly as it had appeared. Encouraged by this 
 opinion, and relying upon the great experience this veteran guide 
 whom we had known for many years possessed of the weather 
 in this elevated region ; notwithstanding the remonstrances of our 
 host, who emphatically warned us of the danger we might en- 
 counter, we determined to proceed unaided and alone, in the first
 
 ASCENT OF SNOWDON STARTLING CONTRASTS. 157 
 
 instance to Gorphwysfa; there to await and avail ourselves of 
 any favourable change in the weather that might occur, and then 
 immediately proceed on our mountain adventure. There was a 
 spice of romance in the idea of accomplishing the ascent which 
 chimed in with our feelings, and irresistibly urged us to carry out, 
 if practicable, our previous intention. With this determination 
 we arrived at Gorpkwysfa; but the weather, so far from improving, 
 became, if possible, more unfavourable than ever. The fog in- 
 creased in volume, and descended lower and lower, until we 
 became enveloped in it on the road ascending through the Pass of 
 Llanberis. We found on our arrival, Robin Hughes and his party, 
 who decided, after some hesitation, and evidently labouring under 
 feelings of great disappointment, to proceed to Llanberis ; a 
 favourable ascent to the summit on this occasion being now 
 deemed hopeless. We were thus left " alone in our glory," and 
 were for some time in doubt and hesitation as to what steps to 
 pursue under these discouraging circumstances. 
 
 The day wore on, it was now three o'clock, and it was time to 
 make up our minds either to advance or retreat. At all events, 
 we argued, we could find our way as far as Llyn Llydaw, and by 
 that time perhaps, some favourable change might take place, so as 
 to enable us to proceed. We therefore, after some hesitation, 
 decided to start. We carried our rod with us for a staff, our 
 fishing-basket served us for a canteen, and thus accoutred, we 
 arrived at the shore of Llyn Llydaw. We had observed on our 
 route several "lifts" in the fog, and that it by degrees folded 
 itself up, and gradually rose from the lower portion of the moun- 
 tain. Every now and then, swift as thought, a magnificent burst 
 of light suddenly illumed a distant peak, which absolutely glowed 
 like burnished copper of a deep ruddy hue, and threw over the 
 waters of the lake a fearful supernatural glare, and then, 
 
 " Like the rainbow's lovely form," 
 
 " vanished "mid clouds and thick darkness," which again "spread 
 upon the mountains." The contrasts between these brilliant 
 magical glimpses of light, and the black murky threatening gloom 
 which hovered over the deep ewms or hollows of Snowdon, were 
 so startling, that we felt almost spell-bound, and a deep thrilling
 
 158 ASCENT OP SNOWDON MARVELLOUS SCENE. 
 
 awe crept over us, such as we had never felt before. " The very 
 air of the place seemed solemn and lonely ;" and although we con- 
 fessthat we felt some what daunted, we were wrought up to such 
 a pitch of excitement, that if the scene presented to us had been 
 even still more threatening and terrible, we should have endea- 
 voured to pursue our way. 
 
 " Such are the haunts the mountain wanderer loves." 
 
 Matters, however, now began to improve, and by the time we had 
 reached Llyn Cwm-Mynnon-Glas, the fog continued to rise higher 
 and higher, until we could, to our extreme delight and relief, at 
 last see dimly the peerless summit of Moel-y-Wyddfa like a beacon 
 light of Hope to the tempest-tossed mariner, the sun evidently 
 gilding its peak in unclouded majesty and splendour. We were 
 thus at. last rewarded for what, at one time, we had deemed a 
 hopeless attempt, and obtained thus far the prospect of a grand 
 and marvellous scene amidst the "damp of clouds" and the 
 wailings of the chilly mysterious wind, which at brief intervals, 
 came soughing down the gullies and ravines, in the struggle to 
 obtain the mastery over the vapours which shrouded them. 
 
 In our anxiety to advance, and in the state of nervous excite- 
 ment we laboured under, we forgot the roughness of the road, 
 which for the most part consisted of a bed of rolling stones, 
 fatiguing to pass over, and which produced an unpleasant sensa- 
 tion of pain to the feet, and a constant strain upon the ancles. 
 We had now performed the greatest portion of the journey; 
 what remained, however, was by far the most difficult part of the 
 ascent, namely, from the foot of the rocky steeps of Crib-y- 
 Dystul and Crib Coch. Here we reposed a short time at the 
 copper mine, and refreshed ourselves with some of the coldest 
 and purest water we ever tasted. By the time we had rested 
 ourselves, the sun broke out in full splendour, illuminating with 
 his rays the summits of the mountains, and rapidly dispersing the 
 vapours which still lingered upon the highest acclivities. Y-Wyddfa 
 now loomed up before us clear and unclouded, and we commenced 
 the ascent up the side of Crib-y-Dystul with renewed strength 
 and ardour, in the confident hope of successfully accomplishing 
 our feat. We had never before ascended so high on this side of
 
 SINGULAR PROSPECT FROM THE SUMMIT. 159 
 
 Snowdon, and stood for the first time on the shore of Llyn- 
 Ffynnon-Glas. This solitary pool looked even still more savage 
 and gloomy than Llyn Llydaw, which lies immediately below it. 
 The path, after leaving the copper mine, leads nearly due north ; 
 it is very narrow, and covered with loose debris from the pre- 
 cipices above. It afterwards winds in a serpentine direction 
 towards the west, on a very sharp incline, until you near the 
 summit. About half way up, we discovered the figures of 
 several persons near the Ordnance carnedd, and we concluded 
 that we should meet a host of people at the " hotel." . As we con- 
 tinued slowly to ascend, pausing occasionally to look around, the 
 sublimity of the scene above and below increased every moment. 
 It was fearful to look back on the precipitous path up which we 
 had toiled, and which to the eye looked almost inaccessible ; the 
 cold green glassy waters of the lake below reflecting on its crystal 
 depths the crags which overhang the yawning gulf in which its 
 
 waters repose. 
 
 " How fearful 
 
 And dizzy 'tis to cast one's eyes so low ! 
 The crows and choughs that wing the midway air, 
 Scarce show so gross as beetles." 
 
 It was half-past six o'clock ere we stood on the summit of 
 Moel-y-Wyddfa ; it was evening, not a soul was there : we 
 were alone. The mountain, during the day, had been visited by a 
 number of people, but all had now departed. We had accom- 
 plished the ascent in about two hours and thirty minutes from 
 Gorphwysfa : 
 
 " Soft fell the night, the sky was calm. 1 ' 
 
 The view we obtained from this elevated spot was a singular one. 
 Above us the sky was beautifully clear; all below, to about half- 
 way down the mountain, looking towards the vale of Cwellyn, 
 Anglesea, and the whole of the country to the west and south- 
 west, was enveloped in a dense mass of white vapour, resembling 
 the ocean billows after a storm. The effect was 
 
 " Beautiful exceedingly," 
 
 surpassingly grand, and marvellous beyond conception. You 
 could almost imagine that what you beheld were the raging
 
 160 EVENING SCENE FROM THE SUMMIT OP SNOWDON. 
 
 waters of the foam-covered ocean rolling beneath your feet. The 
 ridge of Snowdon appeared to have formed a barrier to the mist 
 on the east side ; for, looking towards Capel Curig, Moel Siabod, 
 the mountainous country beyond, and in every direction, not a 
 cloud or vapour was to be seen. Llyn Conwy and several other 
 llyns could plainly be discerned ; some of these we recognised as 
 old acquaintances. We had also a fine view of the Merionethshire 
 mountains ; it was, however, too late in the day to distinguish 
 very distant objects. The curtain of vapour which shrouded the 
 western side of Snowdon did not extend far, not even to the 
 roots of the mountain, as we afterwards ascertained; still there 
 seemed no present prospect of its clearing off, although an occa- 
 sional gust of wind, which caused the clouds to boil and heave as 
 if suddenly about to be torn asunder, gave us faint hopes that it 
 would do so. But we were doomed to be disappointed. After 
 feasting our eyes for some time on the magnificent prospect before 
 us, for " language is indigent and impotent when it would presume 
 to sketch scenes on which the Great Eternal has placed his match- 
 less finger," and warned at length by the rapidly waning light, we 
 slowly descended from our position; and after partaking of a 
 slight refreshment at the huts, we resumed our journey, it being 
 our intention to return to Beddgelert. We soon after passed 
 
 the Clawdd Coch, 
 
 " Nee temere, nee timide ; " 
 
 the abyss on either side being concealed by the thick vapour 
 furiously boiling and circulating below us, and without any danger, 
 as the path was perfectly visible. We did not finally quit the clouds 
 until we had advanced to the lower acclivities of the mountain. 
 Here the evening was calm and peaceful; the sky was almost 
 cloudless, and 
 
 " The moon half hid in silvery flakes, 
 Afar her dubious radiance shed, 
 And summer mists in dewy balm, 
 Steep'd heathy bank and mossy stone."
 
 PASS OF LLANBERIS ITS CELEBRITY. 161 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 L LANBERtS HOTELS LLTN PERIS LLYN PADARN PASS 
 SCENERY VILLAGE CHURCH WELL OF ST. PERIS CAEN ANT 
 MAWR LLYN DWYTHWCH LLYN-DU-YR-ARDDUDWY BOTAN Y 
 OP LLANBERIS HETTY'S ISLAND SLATE QUARRIES. 
 
 " Lives there the man so lost to Nature's charms 
 That would not shun when scenes like these invite 
 The crowded city P 
 
 The lonely Llyn the sparkling rivnlet 
 The hoarse cascade the frowning steep 
 Of yonder mountain lost in clouds 
 Hath charms for me far, far heyond 
 The busy haunts of men, where, as 
 A solitary pilgrim, through fair Cambria, 
 I trace my devious way." 
 
 FORTY or fifty years ago, the romantic Pass of Llanberis was 
 little frequented by tourists ; it was, in fact, one of the most 
 secluded spots in the Principality. In Pennant's time, the roads 
 in North Wales were in a wretched state, and Llanberis formed 
 no exception, so that a pilgrimage through it could not be made, 
 except on horseback or on foot. At a later period, Bingley calls 
 it "a bad horse path;" and most writers, at the beginning of the 
 present century, complain of the execrable roads they had to 
 traverse. Since then, a great alteration has taken place; the 
 wild seclusion of Llanberis is broken, and the " romantic melan- 
 choly" which formerly pervaded the scene has for ever departed. 
 
 In 1818, an excellent posting-road was made through the Pass 
 to Caernarvon; and it has since become a place of fashionable 
 resort to some thousands of visitors every summer. Llanberis 
 derives some of its notoriety from the visit of Queen Victoria and 
 her royal mother, the Duchess of Kent, in 1832. The Queen, 
 then the Princess Victoria, was exceedingly struck with the 
 
 M
 
 162 THE HOTELS AT LLANBERIS THE LAKES. 
 
 scenery of the Pass, and is reported to have said, that it com- 
 manded her admiration more than anything else she had seen in 
 Wales. Praise from such a high quarter naturally excited the 
 curiosity of the public, and since then the popularity of Llanberis 
 has been annually on the increase. There are now two excellent 
 hotels, both in the vicinity of the " time-worn " tower of Dolba- 
 darn, viz. the "Royal Victoria," a handsome edifice erected by 
 the late Mr. Assheton Smith, some time after the visit of the royal 
 party, and the "Dolbadarn Castle," built, in 1818, at the time 
 the road was constructed. The "Dolbadarn Castle," although 
 not so showy as its rival, is spacious and exceedingly comfortable ; 
 and pedestrian tourists, " knapsack " men, and especially anglers 
 and artists, will do well to try it. There is now also a respectable 
 inn at the village, called the " Vaenol Arms." In 1840, and until 
 1845, the village inn was a wretched pothouse. 
 
 JTIgtt |pms anft ITIjm ^abara. 
 
 The lakes of Llanberis have long been celebrated as two of the 
 finest and most beautiful sheets of water in Wales. The upper 
 lake, called Llyn Peris, is nearly one mile in length and about 
 half a mile broad. Its known depth is greater than any other 
 lake in the Principality, being in some places 140 yards deep. 
 The lower lake, Llyn Padarn, is the largest pool in the county, being 
 about a mile and a half long, but it is rather narrow, and very inferior 
 in grandeur and picturesque effect to the sister lake. The upper 
 lake is surrounded by hills of very grand form, which on two of 
 its sides project precipitously into the lake itself, but at its ex- 
 tremities leave an opening for the entrance and escape of the 
 waters. With the exception of Llyn Tegid, better known as 
 Bala Lake, Llyn Padarn is said to be " second in size of all in 
 Wales." This assertion is very erroneous, as Llyn Savaddon, or 
 Llangorse Pool the Clamosum of Giraldus Cambrensis is three 
 miles long, and in some parts more than one mile broad. This 
 lake is in Brecknockshire, and is inferior only to Bala Pool, 
 which is nearly four miles long. The upper and lower lakes of 
 Llanberis are separated by a narrow neck of land, through which 
 the Seiont flows into Llyn Padarn. These Llyns, as we have pre-
 
 FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF LLANBERIS ITS SCENERY. 163 
 
 viously mentioned, in former times abounded with trout and char 
 but since the formation of copper mines and slate quarries in their 
 immediate vicinity, both these species of fish have become exceed- 
 ingly scarce. It is said, that after the opening of the copper 
 mines; the mineral water from the level had the effect of driving 
 the char out of the lakes into the river Seiont which flows through 
 the pools ; and numbers of char were afterwards caught in nets 
 in the Menai Strait, at the mouth of the river. 
 
 Our first impressions of Llanberis were extremely favourable. 
 It was towards the close of a lovely summej's day, in 1840, when 
 we entered the Pass. We were on horseback ; and as we slowly 
 descended towards the village, which has been justly styled " the 
 beau ideal of a mountainous retirement and its attendant simpli- 
 city," the rays of the departing luminary lit up the summits of 
 the towering rocks and precipices on either side of the tremendous 
 hollow through which we passed; "the olive-coloured gloom," 
 russet heights, lone cataracts, and " cloud capt " mountains 
 which greeted our gaze on every side, and the sparkling waters 
 of the beautiful Llyn Peris, with the ancient tower of Dolbadarn 
 in the distance, glimpses of which occasionally came in view, 
 gave a softened character to a scene so full of majestic grandeur 
 and sublimity. 
 
 " Nature, how in every charm supreme ! 
 Whose votaries feast on raptures ever new." 
 
 The scenery of Llanberis, however, like all other mountain 
 hollows, is susceptible of startling contrasts. In stormy, tem- 
 pestuous weather, when the thunder rolls and the lightning's 
 blue glare flashes over the basaltic rocks and almost perpendicular 
 crags which hem in the Pass for several miles, momentarily reveal- 
 ing the fantastic outlines of the rugged rocks and sombre cwms 
 which ever and anon present themselves, and are again lost in the 
 deep gloom which succeeds the flash these are phases which 
 sometimes almost suddenly occur, and leave a lasting impression 
 on the memory of the beholder. 
 
 M 2
 
 164 CAMDEN'S DESCRIPTION OF SNOWDONIA. 
 
 The village of Llanberis is situate in a narrow grassy dell at 
 the upper end of Llyn Peris. In romantic beauty, we know of 
 few places which excel it one of those "nooks of the world" 
 which convey to the imagination a charming picture of patriarchal 
 simplicity and retirement. Camden, in speaking of the scenery 
 of Snowdonia, says : " Nature has here reared huge groups of 
 mountains, as if she intended to bind fast the bowels of the earth. 
 . . . Here are so many crags and rocks, so many wooded valleys, 
 so many lakes, that these mountains may be truly called the 
 British Alps, for they are, like the Alps, bespread with broken 
 crags on every side, all surrounding one (Snowdon), which, tower- 
 ing in the centre, far above the rest, lifts its head so loftily, as if 
 it meant not only to threaten, but to thrust it into the sky." It 
 is supposed that in ancient times the lower parts of the mountains 
 in the Vale of Llanberis were covered with wood, and abounded 
 with deer, which were not finally extirpated until the early part 
 of the seventeenth century. This opinion receives confirmation 
 from one of the laws of the great Welsh Lycurgus, Howel Dda, 
 " Howel the Good," which directs, that " whoever cleared away 
 timber from any land, even without the consent of the owner, he 
 should for five years have a right to the land so cleared ; and 
 after that time it should again revert to the owner." At the 
 present time, Llanberis, like nearly all the other portions of the 
 Welsh highlands, can boast of but very few trees. 
 
 The primitive church of Llanberis, which some years ago was 
 restored by Mr. Kennedy, of Bangor, is " a highly curious building, 
 partly of the fifteenth century," and the timber-work is described 
 as being unique. The church (eglwys) is situate in a deeply 
 sequestered glen, called, in Leland's time, Nant-y-Monach, the 
 " Monk's Valley," about half a mile above Llyn Peris, and, to the 
 lover of ecclesiology, is well worth a visit. It is dedicated to 
 St. Peris, a British saint contemporary with Padarn, an anchorite, 
 who, about the sixth century, is said to have dwelt at a cell or 
 chapel in a meadow near Dolbadarn Castle, from which the castle 
 derived its name. Dol, in Welsh, signifies a meadow ; hence the
 
 WELL OF ST. PRRIS CAEN ANT MAWR. 165 
 
 name Dolbadarn, the "Meadow of Padarn." There is a holy 
 well near the church, called Ffynnon Peris, the "Well of St. 
 Peris," formerly famed as most holy wells were in olden time 
 for the miraculous cure of diseases. A few tame fish, we were 
 told, still exist in the well. The way to it is over a stile from the 
 turnpike-road. 
 
 Caraant ^labr. 
 
 A short distance to the south of Castell Dolbadarn, is a fine 
 waterfall, called Caenant or Caunant-Mawr,1,he "cataract of the 
 great chasm," or, more properly, the "valley of the great 
 chasm." The accumulated waters that flow from Moel Aeliau, 
 Cwm Brwynog, and the streams that descend from the north- 
 west side of Snowdon, unite at the head of a deep glen, and 
 rushing through a cleft in the rocks above, form a fine Fall of at 
 least sixty feet in height. After heavy rains, this cataract is, 
 doubtless, well worth a visit, and the water then descends with 
 thundering fury into a deep pool, or basin, at the bottom. We 
 were not fortunate enough to view this rather celebrated fall to 
 advantage, the water at the time of our visit being rather scant ; 
 even Rhaiadr-y-Wenol, and other falls we have seen in dry 
 weather, are comparatively tame. Caenant Mawr, however, under 
 any circumstances deserves mention, and is one of the " lions " of 
 the locality. 
 
 " Smooth to the shelving brink a copious flood 
 Rolls fair and placid, where, collected all, 
 In one impetuous torrent down the steep 
 It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round. 
 At first an azure sheet, it rushes broad ; 
 Then whitening by degrees as prone it falls, 
 And from the loud resounding rocks below 
 Dash'd in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft 
 A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower." 
 
 Llanberis can now be scarcely called a fishing-station. We 
 never angled in the lakes, and therefore cannot afford any infor- 
 mation from personal experience; but from all we could learn, 
 little or no sport either from boat or shore could now be obtained. 
 There is a small pool under the tremendous precipices of Moel 
 Aeliau, in a dreary morass one of the sublime solitudes of
 
 166 LLYN DWYTHWCH BOTANY BARE PLANTS. 
 
 Snowdon called Llyn Dwythwch, which bears a good reputation, 
 and is reported to contain red trout; but our experience of it 
 proved anything but satisfactory; we were, however, strongly 
 recommended to try it by an old fisherman. It is true, we hardly 
 gave the pool a fair chance, as we. only angled there for a few 
 hours one afternoon in June, 1849, during a short stay at the 
 " Dolbadarn Castle " hotel, whilst on an excursion from Bangor 
 to Pen-y-Gwryd. It is highly probable that this lake is poached 
 by the miners and quarrymen of the neighbourhood. Another 
 small, but deep pool, called Llyn-du-yr-Arddudwy, lying at the 
 foot of the nearly perpendicular rocks called Clogwyn-du-yr- 
 Arddudwy, near Bwlch-Cwm-Brwynog, can also be visited from 
 Llanberis. This lake lies about a quarter of a mile to the left of 
 the guides' route to the summit of Suowdon. The water from 
 the Llyn flows through Cwm Brwynog, and is one of the principal 
 feeders of the united streams which form Caenant Mawr, the 
 water from which flows into Llyn Peris, beneath the walls of 
 Castell Dolbadarn. Of the fishing in this pool we literally know 
 nothing ; it is very possible that it contains no fish of any kind. 
 
 Llanberis has long been a favourite resort of the lovers of 
 botany. Bingley, who was an excellent botanist, gives a list of a 
 number of rare alpine plants which he discovered amongst the 
 wilds and precipices of Snowdon and Llanberis. Since his time, 
 however,, many of the plants he mentions are entirely extinct, or 
 become exceedingly scarce. One of the guides at the Victoria 
 Hotel, who is a very civil, intelligent man, is in great request 
 during the summer by the numerous botanists who frequent the 
 locality, as he knows " the habitat of every plant in the surround- 
 ing mountains." The last time we saw him was at Pen-y-Gwryd, 
 and he then gave us some valuable information on several parti- 
 culars of which we were previously ignorant. He told us that 
 some of the rarer species of plants were, in consequence of the 
 incessant researches of botanists, yearly becoming more scarce, 
 and that in winter, when the snow was on the ground, and deep 
 in some parts of the mountains, he had several times risked his 
 life amongst the precipices and hollows of Snowdon, in pursuit of 
 some rare plant wliich he had been commissioned to procure for 
 some botanical enthusiast.
 
 THE CROMLECH SLATE QUARRIES. 167 
 
 About two miles from Llanberis church, on the side of the road 
 through the Pass, is a huge mass of stone called "The Cromlech" 
 possibly from a fancied resemblance to a Druidical altar of sacrifice. 
 At some remote period it formed a portion of the precipices above 
 it, and must have been rent asunder by some convulsion of nature. 
 It is several thousand tons in weight, and is said to be much larger 
 than the celebrated Bowdar stone in Borrowdale, Cumberland. 
 Under the angle of this stone an old woman formerly made a 
 habitation, and in summer resided there to* feed her cows on the 
 scanty herbage around it. The name of the place is Tnys Hettws, 
 " Hetty's Island." 
 
 The slate quarries on the sides of the Llyder, along the shores 
 of Llyn Peris, opposite to Dolbadarn, are very extensive, and 
 large quantities of slates are shipped annually from Port Dinorwic, 
 on the Menai Strait. They belonged to the late T. Assheton 
 Smith, Esq., the celebrated fox-hunter, who died at Vaenol, near 
 Bangor, on the banks of the Menai, on the 9th of September, 
 1858. The Llyn Peris copper-mine, which in great measure 
 destroyed the trout and char many years ago, has been discon- 
 tinued for some years, having ceased to be productive. Tor nearly 
 a century after the mine was opened large quantities of copper 
 ore were extracted, but the vein of ore has now become nearly 
 exhausted. 
 
 Llanberis, like a great many other mountain parishes in Wales, 
 is of considerable extent, and is divided into two districts, Nant- 
 Uchaf and Nant-Isaf ; which comprise some of the loftiest moun- 
 tains in Snowdonia, and portions of the most romantic scenery in 
 Wales ; and in that part of the parish called Nant-Isaf, or Nant- 
 Padarn, stands the ancient watch-tower of CASTELL DOLBADARN, 
 a description of which we reserve for the next chapter.
 
 168 DOLBADARN CASTLE ITS HISTORY. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 CASTELI DOLBADARN GILPIN ON SCENERY SCENERY OF DOL- 
 BADAUN WARNER'S DESCRIPTION OF DOLBADARN EFFECTS 
 OE SETTING SUN. 
 
 " As I stood by yon roofless tower, 
 
 Where the wa' flower scents the dewy air; 
 Where the howlet mourns in her ivy bower, 
 And tells the midnight moon her care, 
 
 " The winds were laid, the air was still, 
 The stars they shot along the sky ; 
 The fox was howling on the hill, 
 
 And the distant echoing glens reply." BURNS. 
 
 Castell ^olbabant. 
 
 THIS " aunciente ruine," supposed to have been originally erected 
 in the sixth century, by Maelgwyn Gwynedd, to guard one of the 
 principal Passes into the Cambrian stronghold, Snowdon, from the 
 incursions of the Saxons, has long been ruinous; for even in 
 Leland's time, temp. Henry VIII., the tower only remained. It 
 was, however, perfect during the rebellion of Owen Glyndwr, at 
 the beginning of the fifteenth century, and underwent several 
 sieges, being taken and retaken on various occasions by the con- 
 tending forces. At that time also it was probably a place of 
 some strength, being defended from a near approach " by a narrow 
 causeway over a marische," and from its situation, being placed 
 on a rock which commands the narrow isthmus which divides the 
 Upper and Lower lakes, was considered in those times a strong 
 and important fortress. After the death of Llewelyn Ap Gryffydd, 
 the last and greatest of the Welsh princes, in 1282, it was 
 garrisoned for a short time by the unfortunate Llewelyn's brother,
 
 GILPIN ON THE SCENERY OF SNOWDON. 1 69 
 
 Davydd ; but it was taken from the Welsh after a short resistance, 
 by the Earl of Pembroke, in the following year, 1283. Since the 
 time of Owen Glyndwr, history has been silent, so far as we know, 
 and being no longer of use as a defence to the Pass of Llanberis, 
 the castle has, probably, " silently decaied." 
 
 The Rev. William Gilpin whose " Observations on Picturesque 
 Beauty " in several parts of England and Wales are so deservedly 
 appreciated and admired by all lovers of landscape scenery made 
 a tour through a portion of North Wales in 1773, and amongst 
 other places visited Dolbadarn and Llanberis. Gilpin was the 
 first topographer who reduced to certain fixed rules the various 
 "combination of parts," the harmonies, the "picturesque pas- 
 sages" of a landscape; rendering the whole subservient to a 
 science ; in fact, endeavouring to prove that landscape gardening, 
 in some instances, is superior to nature. By thes*e rules Gilpin 
 thus criticises Snowdon : " With regard to Snowdon, I fear, not 
 much can be said, as it nowhere appears connected enough as one 
 whole to form a grand object; so neither has it any of those 
 accompaniments which form a beautiful one. It is a bleak dreary 
 waste, without any pleasing combination of parts, or any rich 
 furniture, either of wood or well constructed rock." 
 
 We are certain that Gilpin's condemnation of the scenery of 
 parts of Snowdon will meet with but few sympathisers in these 
 days. Gilpin admits that he never ascended Snowdon, and to 
 condemn the " Monarch of the hills " from a hasty and imperfect 
 view of him in the Pass of Llanberis is hardly fair. Indeed, the 
 higher rocks and eminences of Snowdon, including the magnificent 
 outline of his peaked summit, cannot be observed from where 
 Gilpin made his observations. If he had viewed Snowdon from 
 the entrance to Cwm Llan, or from the Beddgelert road, near 
 Pen-y-Gwryd, we think his criticism would have undergone at 
 least some modification. Succeeding writers have, however, 
 rendered to Snowdon that homage which Gilpin has alone denied; 
 and it is really diificult to conceive how a man like Gilpin, with a 
 mind so eminently gifted, and so well qualified both with pen and 
 pencil to criticise and illustrate picturesque beauty, should unless 
 blinded by prejudice or a determination to judge scenery only by 
 certain fixed rules which he had arbitrarily laid down have con-
 
 170 GILPIN ON THE SCENERY OF DOLBADARN. 
 
 demned a mountain allowed by all who have seen it to be the 
 most magnificent and romantic in the British isles. 
 
 Gilpin, in his account of the scenery of Dolbadarn, is more 
 favourably disposed. He says, "Our trouble in traversing this 
 rugged country was not totally unrewarded. Though Snowdon 
 itself afforded us little amusement, we met with two or three 
 beautiful scenes about Dolbadarn Castle, which lies at its foot. 
 The castle appeared before us at the distance of two miles, 
 standing on the confines of a lake. The mountains around it 
 which are called appendages of Snowdon fall into pleasing lines, 
 forming a deep valley, and folding over each other in easy inter- 
 sections. Indeed, a body of water among mountains, if it have 
 no other use, has at least that of showing, by the little bays it 
 forms, how one mountain falls over another, which strengthens 
 the picturesque idea of a graduating distance. As we descended 
 towards the castle, we were drawn aside by a pleasant retreat, called 
 Combrunog," Cwm Brwynog, Gilpin's Welsh orthography was 
 very defective, " where a little river flows through two circular 
 valleys, each about a mile in circumference, and each surrounded 
 with mountains. Both areas being nearly plains, and on different 
 levels, the river, having passed through one, falls in a cascade 
 (Caenant Mawr) into the other. As we left Combrunog, and 
 descended still nearer Dolbaddern, the scenery about it became 
 more interesting. In one place we descended nearly a hundred 
 stone steps, or rather stones laid irregularly in the form of steps, 
 and if our horses had not been those of the country, we should 
 not easily have persuaded them to attempt a passage so ill adapted 
 to quadrupeds. Through these and other little difficulties, at 
 length, however, we arrived at the bottom, where we found two 
 lakes, separated by a neck of land, near which arose a knoll much 
 higher than the banks of the lakes, but inconsiderable when com- 
 pared with the surrounding mountains. On this knoll stands the 
 castle, which has never been a capital fortress, and now exhibits 
 little more than one solitary tower ; but it is a very picturesque 
 fragment, and is more in union with the scene than if it had been 
 a larger building. A lonely tower is itself an emblem of solitude. 
 Having ascended the castle-hill, we had a good view of both the 
 lakes. The lower one is about two miles long, and half a quarter
 
 DOLBADAEN A DESERT IN THE LAST CENTURY. 171 
 
 of a mile broad. Its lines are beautiful, and it goes off in good 
 perspective ; but it has a contracted appearance, being sunk too 
 much, like a gully, under lofty mountains, to which it is in no 
 degree equivalent. In every lake view the water and skreens 
 should be proportioned, or there can be no very pleasing effect. 
 In the lakes oi Constance and Geneva, and still more in the great 
 lakes of America, the skreens are as little proportioned to the 
 water, as in such a lake as this the water is to its skreens. In 
 neither case the scenery is complete. The upper lake at Dolbad- 
 dern is still more a gully than the lower, having scarce any banks 
 but mountains. Both lakes have a desolate naked appearance, 
 being wholly destitute of furniture. In Cumberland and West- 
 moreland such lakes would attract no attention ; here a dearth of 
 objects gives them consequence. The upper lake, however, afforded 
 an opportunity of observing the singular use of reflection in uniting 
 land and water." 
 
 From Gilpin's account, Dolbadarn in his time was a desert. 
 " It was now a late evening hour, and though we had seen little 
 we had laboured much, and began to want refreshment both for 
 ourselves and horses. Among the mountains of Cumberland one 
 might generally have found it ; but here all was desolation. We 
 did not meet with a single village, and but few separate houses, 
 and these were locked up. . . . The limpid rills of Snowdon were 
 our only repast." 
 
 What a contrast does Dolbadarn now present, after a lapse of 
 eighty-seven years ! Excellent hotels, a good road, a coach daily 
 through the Pass from Caernarvon to Llangollen-road station, 
 elegant villa residences, lodging-houses, and comfortable convey- 
 ances. 
 
 Warner, after accomplishing the ascent of Snowdon, descended 
 afterwards to the Pass of Llanberis, his description of which is 
 so graphic and amusing that we are tempted to give it, by way of 
 contrast with the foregoing sombre extracts from Gilpin's tour : 
 
 " After two hour's walking, or rather stumbling over masses of 
 rocks for two hours, we reached a cottage situated amidst some 
 coarse meadows, the sparing produce of which the labourers were 
 at this late period (August 21st) getting in. Uncertain what 
 direction to pursue to Dolbadarn Castle, we inquired of a woman
 
 172 WARNER'S ACCOUNT OP DOLBADARN. 
 
 who stood at the cottage-gate, but received no other answer than 
 an intimation that she did not speak English. After all the 
 expressive gesticulations that we could think of, and pronouncing 
 the name of the place with every possible variation of accent, we 
 made her comprehend our meaning, and she ordered her daughter, 
 a girl about twelve years old, to direct us to Castell Dolbathren. 
 Our little guide, tripping on before us like a lapwing, and without 
 the incumbrance of shoe or stocking, led us over rocks and bogs 
 for about two miles, when we found ourselves on the margin of 
 the Lake Llanberis, and near the old fortress of Dolbadarn. This 
 piece of water is divided by a small field, through which, however, 
 there is a communication by means of a narrow stream into two 
 lakes, the northern one being the larger, and stretching nearly three 
 miles in length : the latter called, after the castle, Lake Dolbadarn, 
 and measuring little more than one. Upon the summit of a hill 
 rising at the southern extremity of Lake Llanberis, stand the 
 ruins of Dolbadarn Castle, forming a good accompaniment to the 
 rude and desolate scenery that surrounds it. The only remains 
 of the original fortress consist of the foundations of the exterior 
 buildings, and the greater part of the citadel or keep. This is a 
 circular building, thirty feet in diameter, containing four apart- 
 ments the dungeon at the bottom, and three others in succession 
 over it, the ascent to which is by spiral staircases. By whom it was 
 erected does not appear, though it certainly belonged to the ancient 
 Welsh princes, and is consequently of high antiquity. Owen 
 Goch, the unsuccessful rebel, and opponent of his brother 
 Llewelyn, languished twenty years within its walls. It is con- 
 structed of the schistus of the country, and though of small 
 extent, is well situated, and was originally very strong. On the 
 declivity of the mountain, immediately facing the castle, are 
 considerable quarries of a fine purple slate." Warner thus 
 describes the state of the road : " We now turned into a regular 
 road, which led to Caernarvon, and was the first we had seen in 
 the course of the day. Like all the other mountain roads, how- 
 ever, it consisted entirely of large loose stones and pointed solid 
 rock, not a little incommodious to pedestrians who had already 
 followed the undulations of this hilly country for twenty miles. 
 Another hour brought us to the river Ryddell (Seiont), which
 
 EXQUISITE EFFECTS OF THE SETTING SUN. 173 
 
 flows from the northern extremity of Llanberis lake, and pursues 
 a winding course to Caernarvon. We crossed it by means of a 
 stone bridge, rude in appearance, and unworkmanlike in con- 
 struction." 
 
 We cannot forbear quoting the following eloquent description, 
 by the same author, of the magnificent effects produced by the 
 setting sun on the landscape near the close of a lovely evening in 
 autumn : 
 
 " The day now drew towards a close, and the unclouded sun, 
 sinking gradually to the ocean, produced a magic scene, which 
 nature only exhibits in countries where she prints her boldest 
 characters. A fine fleecy cloud was drawn around the mountains 
 we had left, and curtained in its embrace nearly half their height. 
 On this the declining orb of day threw its rich departing radiance, 
 and displayed an illumination that neither pencil nor pen can 
 imitate or describe : the misty covering of the mountains every 
 moment varied its tint ; it now assumed the appearance of a fleece 
 of azure, the next minute it brightened into a rich golden colour; 
 shortly afterwards it took a deeper yellow. As the sun approached 
 the wane, its tinge changed successively to a brilliant red and 
 solemn purple, and at length, when he sunk from the horizon, it 
 became gradually colourless and dark. The effect was further 
 heightened by the variation which the cloud exhibited in its 
 form. For a short time it would confine itself to the higher 
 regions of the mountains, then, sinking considerably, would 
 nearly encircle their base; and again, rising and condensing 
 itself, it hung upon their summits like a crown of glory. The 
 picture on the opposite side was equally beautiful and grand. 
 The solemn turrets of Caernarvon Castle, contrasted with the gay 
 scenery of ships and villas in its neighbourhood, formed the fore- 
 ground; to the left appeared the dark precipices of the Rivals 
 (three mountains of great bulk and immense height), which were 
 now in the shade ; and beyond them the ocean, glittering with the 
 rays of the departing sun, stretching as far as the vision extended. 
 Nothing could exceed the glory of his setting ; as he approached 
 the waves, his radiance became more tolerable, and his form more 
 distinct, exhibiting the appearance of an immense ball of fire. 
 When he reached the ocean, he seemed to rest upon it as upon
 
 174 WARNER'S BLUNDERS HIS IDEAS OP DISTANCE. 
 
 a throne for a moment, and then buried his splendid rotundity 
 in its waters, reminding us of that beautiful apostrophe to the 
 orb of light, and sublime description in the father of Erse poetry : 
 ' Hast thou left thy blue course in heaven, golden-haired son of 
 the sky ? The west has opened its gates ; the bed of thy repose 
 is there. The cranes come to behold thy beauty. They lift their 
 trembling heads. They see thee lovely in thy sleep ; they shrink 
 away with fear. Rest in thy shadowy cave, sun! Let thy 
 return be with joy/ " 
 
 Warner, in his first " Walk in Wales," falls into some blunders, 
 which must have arisen either from careless inquiries or gross 
 ignorance. In one of the extracts we have just given, he con- 
 founds the names of the lakes of Llanberis ; and the river Seiont, 
 which flows out of the lower lake, he calls the "river Ryddell" ! 
 He surely did not mean the Rheidol, which rises in Plinlimmon, 
 and flows into the sea at Aberystwith. Warner's ideas of distance 
 are also rather amusing. It will be observed that he makes Llyn 
 Peris the lesser lake to stretch for "nearly three miles in 
 length;" whilst Llyn Padarn, which is considerably the larger 
 lake of the two, measures only " little more than one." So much 
 for the accuracy of some of the tourists of former days.
 
 CAPEL CURIG ROMANTIC LOCALITY. 175 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 CAPEL CURie CARNEDD LLEWELYN CAKNEDD DAFYDD 
 FFYNNON LLOER STORM IN THE WILDS. 
 
 "High 
 
 The rock's bleak summit frowns above our head, 
 Looking immediate down, we almost fear 
 Lest some enormous fragment should descend 
 With hideous sweep into the vale, and crush 
 The intruding visitant. No sound is here 
 Save of the stream that shrills, and now and then 
 A cry as of faint wailing, when the kite 
 Comes sailing o'er the crags, or straggling lamb 
 Bleats for its mother." 
 
 " WHAT a Sabbath of rest from all troublous, anxious, or 
 overwrought feelings" does the solitary romantic Capel Curig 
 present to the mind of the wayfarer ! Such were our impressions 
 upon our first introduction to this really delightful locality some 
 twenty summers ago. First impressions sometimes lead to dis- 
 appointment upon further acquaintance, but at Capel Curig it is 
 otherwise ; and it is perhaps not too much to say, that few places 
 in the Principality combine a greater variety of picturesque and 
 sublime scenery. The village if such it can be called consists 
 chiefly of the hotel, which has been increased in length from time 
 to time since the days of its founder, the late Lord Penrhyn, 
 until it seems almost to form one side of a short street ; and a 
 few cottages on the great Holyhead road, where comfortable 
 lodgings, we believe, can now be obtained by such as prefer them 
 to the hotel. The incumbent of the humble village church, at the 
 period of our first visit, was also the landlord of the inn, and it
 
 176 HOTEL AT CAPEL CURIO -.OLD JACKSON. 
 
 is singular enough, that some years ago the landlords of three of 
 the principal inns in North Wales belonged to the three profes- 
 sions of Law, Physic, and Divinity. Such, however, we have 
 been informed, was the fact. 
 
 This "curious" inn has been so frequently described, and is 
 now so well known, that much comment on our part would be 
 superfluous, but it is only doing an act of justice to the present 
 landlord, Mr. Hughes, to state, that for general comfort, atten- 
 tion and civility, the hotel may vie with any of its great rivals in 
 Snowdonia. The inn is generally crowded with visitors during 
 the summer and autumn months ; and at that period great diffi- 
 culty is frequently experienced in obtaining accommodation. 
 Since the introduction of the rail into North Wales, the influx of 
 tourists has been annually on the increase, and should it go on 
 increasing, before many years are passed, numerous fresh hotels 
 will probably have sprung up.. 
 
 That paragon of waiters, " Old Jackson," so well known to the 
 habitues of the hotel for many years, has been gathered to his 
 fathers for some time, and few, if any, of the ancient denizens of 
 the place now remain, except Robin Hughes, the guide and 
 fisherman, whom we encountered three years ago, apparently as 
 hale and vigorous as ever. This guide is mentioned by Roscoe, 
 in his " wanderings " in this locality some twenty-five years ago. 
 Hughes was one of the guides employed in the search after a 
 Mr. Philip Homer, a young gentleman who perished on Moel 
 Siabod, a few years anterior to Roscoe's visit to Capel Curig. 
 Mr. Homer's remains lie interred in the churchyard at Capel 
 Curig. We remember, whilst on an excursion to Llyn Idwal, in 
 the autumn of 1841, Robin Hughes gave us a very graphic and 
 interesting account of this sad event. Mr. Homer appears to 
 have been exceedingly rash and venturesome, and, regardless of 
 advice and warning, wandered on Moel Siabod, got lost in the 
 mist, and at last perished from exhaustion. 
 
 We must, however, for a brief space, return to our worthy 
 friend Jackson, a " fellow of infinite humour," and in his way a 
 perfect original. In some respects he reminded us of old Caleb 
 Balder-stone, the faithful seneschal of the Master of Ravenswood, 
 in the very interesting tale of "The Bride of Lammermoor."
 
 CAPEL CURIG THE GREAT HOLYHEAD ROAD. 177 
 
 Jackson was an Englishman, who had lived the greater part of 
 his life in Wales, married a Welsh woman, and in short had 
 become almost a Welshman himself. He had passed through the 
 bustling times when the great Holyhead road, after its completion 
 by Telford, was the fashionable route to Ireland. No railroads in 
 those days to interfere with the great highway through a portion 
 of the grandest scenery in Cambria. The road was thronged 
 daily during all times of the year with coaches and carriages of 
 all sorts, and the inns at Capel Curig and Cernioge were then the 
 " chief halting-places on the route from London to Dublin." 
 Tempus edax rerum. The inn at Cernioge, which we well remem- 
 ber in its declining state twenty years ago, situate in the midst of 
 a bleak, barren, naked wilderness, has been closed some years, 
 and now,- we believe, converted into a farmhouse. Capel Curig, 
 however, from the entrancing scenery which surrounds it, com- 
 mands at this moment, if possible, still greater popularity than in 
 the good old times when the Holyhead road was in all its glory. 
 The description of visitors has now of course materially changed. 
 Formerly the frequenters of Capel Curig were chiefly on " business 
 intent " ; now they are almost entirely pleasure-seekers, and consist 
 of tourists from Bangor or Caernarvon, making the " round " 
 through the Pass of Llanberis. One coach, we believe, still 
 remains upon the road ; it runs daily between the Llangollen-road 
 Station and Caernarvon, through Pen-y-Gwryd and Llanberis. 
 Travelling through the country is chiefly performed by means of 
 cars, both single and double ; the latter on four wheels are quite a 
 recent invention, and are not only much pleasanter, but safer and 
 more commodious vehicles than the old-fashioned two-wheeled 
 ones. They are drawn by a pair of horses, and will hold a family 
 party. 
 
 We have already observed that Capel Curig presents many 
 attractions, not only to the lover of natural beauty, but also to 
 the botanist and geologist. Our intention, however, is to intro- 
 duce more particularly to the reader such places in the vicinity 
 as are less known and frequented than the " lions " which are 
 pointed out by the guides and guide-books, and to explore 
 amongst the wild hills those hidden "nooks" and recesses seldom 
 if ever visited, and little known save to the rude dwellers in these 
 
 N
 
 178 ANGLING AT CAPEL CURIG - THE LAKES. 
 
 mountain wastes. In previous chapters we have also endeavoured 
 to furnish a truthful picture of the different angling stations as 
 they at present exist ; not misleading the sportsman, as some of 
 the miscalled guide-books do, which assert that "in any direction 
 the angler cannot fail to find sport," but pointing out the changes 
 which have taken place during the last twenty or thirty years. 
 
 Before we proceed upon our exploration of the country, we will 
 endeavour to describe the angling as it now is in the neighbour- 
 hood of Capel Curig, contrasting its present state with what it 
 was thirty years ago. As an angling station, Capel Curig has 
 gradually declined : the causes of this we have previously explained, 
 and may be comprised under three heads excessive netting, 
 poaching, and the vast increase of mining population. Thirty 
 years ago, first-rate sport was obtained on the 
 
 which form such an attractive feature " in the magnificent pano- 
 ramic picture " presented to the eye, from the rude wooden bridge 
 that spans the infant stream flowing from the lower lake on 
 its course to join the Llugwy, and which is in fact a continuation 
 of the river Gwryd, after its expansion in the Capel Curig lakes. 
 In those days these lakes abounded in fine trout. Hofland, the 
 eminent landscape painter, states in his "Angler's Manual" that 
 he killed in August, 1831 late in the season too upwards of 
 four dozen trout, averaging from half a pound to upwards of one 
 pound each. Other anglers of those days have even exceeded 
 this take. Such, however, is not the case now ; in fact, for the 
 last eighteen or twenty years, the Capel Curig lakes have ceased 
 to afford any attraction whatever to the angler. The disciple of 
 Isaac Walton, however skilful, must be content with few rises, 
 and very small fish. Whence does this extraordinary falling off 
 arise ? It cannot proceed from mining operations, since there are 
 no mines in the vicinity, neither can the "otter" or "board" 
 have so completely spoiled the sport. The only reason we can 
 assign is, that the lakes have been greatly injured by the net. In 
 a former chapter we mentioned the destructive effects occasioned 
 during one season from the use _of a seine net in Llyn Gwynant ;
 
 LAKES IN THE VICINITY OF CAPEL CURIG. 179 
 
 and the Llynniau Mymbyr for a long series of years have afforded 
 one of the principal supplies of trout to the tables of the visitors 
 at Capel Curig. In June, 1843, during a week's sojourn in this 
 locality, we gave these lakes a thorough examination, both from 
 boat and shore ; and although the weather was exceedingly 
 favourable for our purpose, after repeated trials we killed only a 
 very few small trout. We have met with the same result on 
 several subsequent occasions, and this, coupled with similar 
 reports from other anglers, confirms our opinion that these lakes 
 are now " utterly spoiled." 
 
 Amongst the other llyns in this neighbourhood, are Llynniau 
 Duwaunedd, two small pools, about four miles distant, lying under 
 the eastern side of Moel Siabod; Llyn Ogwen, on the great 
 Holyhead road, at the head of Nant Ffrancon ; Llyn Idwal, Llyn 
 Bochlwyd, Llyn Cwm Cowlyd, Llyn Ffynnon Lloer, Llyn Ffynnon 
 Llugwy, Llyn Crafnant, Llyn Eigiau, and Llyn Geirionedd, a few 
 miles from the village of Trefriw, a fishing station on the Conwy ; 
 and celebrated for being the residence of Cambria's greatest Bard, 
 Taliesin, whose dwelling was on the east shore of the lake. Some 
 twenty-five years ago, the sequestered 
 
 afforded magnificent sport. The present Lord A - and the Rev. 
 A. S., on one occasion, caught a large quantity of trout, many of 
 them exceeding one pound, in these pools, which are separated by 
 a narrow strip of shingle that is sometimes covered with water. 
 The quality of the trout is only exceeded by those of Llyn Ogwen. 
 These lakes, however, like the neighbouring pools, Llynniau 
 Mymbyr, have gradually fallen off, in consequence, it is believed, 
 of the introduction of the " otter." The lakes we have enumerated 
 are nearly all within a moderate distance of Capel Curig, although 
 the route to most of them is rough and difficult; but to the 
 sportsman, the pleasurable feelings of excitement, engendered by 
 the love of adventure amongst the wild mountain solitudes of 
 this desolate region, and the healthy flow of spirits that arises 
 from inhaling the refreshing breezes which are wafted over the 
 extensive wastes around you, curling the dark waters of some 
 
 N2
 
 180 ASCENT OF CARNEDDS LLEWELYN AND DAVYDD. 
 
 savage-looking lake, or sweeping in hollow murmurs through the 
 cwm which leads to it, compensate for the sensations of fatigue 
 which you experience after an arduous day in the wilds, or by the 
 rugged shores of the several llyns you may have explored. 
 
 to % Summits of (Karwbb |leaieljm tmb Caracbb 
 Jafrgbb. 
 
 " Dame Nature drew these mountains in such sort, 
 As though one should yeeld the other grace ; 
 Or as each hill itself were such a fort, 
 They scorned to stoope to give the cannon place. 
 If all were plaine and smooth like garden ground, 
 Where should hye woods and goodly groves be found ? 
 The eyes delight that lookes on every coast, 
 With pleasures great and fayre prospect were lost." 
 
 THOMAS CHURCHYARD'S Worthless of Wales. 
 
 It was in the days of " old Jackson " his declining days but 
 still the " old horse " seemed up to his work, that with his accus- 
 tomed cheerful inquiry of " What sport, gentlemen ? " he pro- 
 ceeded to place upon the table a magnificent dish of large Ogwen 
 trout, which for colour and flavour are certainly unrivalled in 
 Wales. But hold! we anticipate before we do justice to the 
 delicacies provided for us by our worthy maitre d 'hotel, let us first 
 proceed to give an account of oar excursion to the summits of the 
 lofty mountains, Carnedds Llewelyn and Davydd. 
 
 The season was summer the "leafy month of June" the 
 weather magnificent. We had for some time previously contem- 
 plated an excursion to these celebrated mountains; and tired 
 with lashing to no purpose the Capel Curig pools, we determined 
 to put our intention into effect ; which afterwards proved one of 
 the wildest and most exciting adventures we had ever " dared" 
 to perform in the desolate region around. 
 
 Accompanied by a friend, but without a guide, save the 
 Ordnance map, we started early on a fine bright morning to 
 achieve, if possible, a visit to the summits of both those mighty 
 hill monarchs. The day proved very favourable for our purpose ; 
 as the morning advanced, huge masses of clouds formed over the
 
 THE BLACK LADDERS LLYN PPYNNON LLUGWY. 181 
 
 mountains, though sufficiently elevated as to be clear of their 
 tops, whilst their dark shadows added a grandeur and breadth of 
 effect to the landscape which every one conversant with mountain 
 scenery must have frequently observed. We had resolved to 
 dispense with the services of a guide ; for guides at Capel Curig, 
 as elsewhere, are expensive, and we were determined to try 
 whether it was possible to find out our way without one. These 
 men are frequently indeed of little or no use, and are only a clog 
 upon the conversation and movements of a party. Our advice is 
 whenever safe and practicable dispense with the services of 
 a guide. 
 
 After proceeding for about three miles on the Holyhead road, 
 within a short distance of Llyn Ogwen, we found ourselves 
 abreast of Carnedd Llewelyn. Our companion, who had a splendid 
 eye " across country," immediately detected what seemed a prac- 
 ticable route, which we resolved to follow. We pursued for some 
 distance the course of a rippling brook the infant Llugwy 
 which issues from Llyn Ffynnon Llugwy, a dark, gloomy piece of 
 water which reposes in a vast abyss beneath Ysgdlion Duon, 
 Anglice, "the Black Ladders." As we advanced on our route 
 towards the tertiary ranges of this vast double-headed mountain, 
 the heat of the day, and at times the slackness of the breeze, pro- 
 duced a temporary faintness and lassitude, which, however, was 
 speedily dissipated by some of the deliciously cool water we met 
 with by the way, tempered with a slight " dash " of cognac. The 
 " collar work " commences at Craig Llugwy, where you leave the 
 streamlet of that name; and, as you advance nearly due north, 
 the scene gradually becomes grander and more magnificent, until 
 at last you reach Bwlch Cyfryw Drym, the narrow ridge which 
 connects Carnedd Llewelyn with its gigantic sister, Carnedd 
 Davydd. Here the scene becomes "untameably wild." We 
 question whether the deep abysses on either side this ridge are 
 not more awful to the eye than the prospect from the Clawdd 
 Coch of Snowdon. Of course, much depends upon weather ; 
 with dark, lowering clouds impending over the scene, the effect 
 must be fearfully sublime. Here we reposed, and proceeded to 
 refresh ourselves preparatory to our walk over the ridge towards 
 the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn. This ridge is stated in the
 
 182 MOUNTAIN SOLITUDES LLEWELYN'S CAMP. 
 
 guide-books to be three-quarters of a mile long. We think, how- 
 ever, the distance is somewhat exaggerated. We now surveyed 
 with great delight the grand prospect which unfolded itself from 
 every quarter. The valley of Nant Ffrancon, with the lofty 
 summits of the Glyders and Llyder Vawr, and the gloomy Llyn 
 Idwal reposing at its base, the sparkling waters of Llyn Ogwen, 
 the Trifaen, and the mountains to our left, furnished a scene 
 which for grandeur, beauty of detail, and colour, could scarcely 
 be surpassed even on a larger scale. At our feet, in a " yawning 
 abyss " far below, lay the sullen, secluded Llyn Ffynnon Llugwy, 
 the parent of the joyous stream which gladdens the eye of the 
 wanderer as he proceeds to Bettws y Coed. How refreshing to 
 contemplate these limpid basins of water, teeming with life amidst 
 the unpeopled desert which everywhere surrounds them. 
 
 " Here I could muse 
 
 The livelong day, and wandering down the dell, 
 Along the grassy margin trace the stream 
 Meandering ; now confined from crag to crag, 
 Where hursts the headlong flood, or widely spread 
 Mid the broad channel, where the undimpled wave 
 Bathing the wild flowers hending o'er the brink 
 Glides silent by." 
 
 Here there is society " where none intrude " the shrill whistle 
 of the mountain sheep, the melancholy croak of the solitary raven, 
 or the far-off bark of the shepherd's dog, being the only break to 
 the portentous stillness which reigns; and you are still more 
 deeply impressed " with the magnitude, the desolation, the intense, 
 heart-thrilling solitude," of the lofty mountains you are among. 
 Such were our sensations, as we once more addressed ourselves 
 to the task of accomplishing the crowning object of our excursion 
 the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn. 
 
 The chief labour of the ascent is accomplished on gaining the 
 crest of Bwlch Cyfryw Drym ; the path hence to the highest 
 point of the mountain is comparatively easy, and we were soon 
 beside the Ordnance earn. We were disappointed to find only 
 very slight traces of Llewelyn's fortified camp, from whence he 
 descried Bangor in flames, the work of his revengeful father-in- 
 law, the tyrant John. " A few cytiau and part of a wall," are all
 
 SUMMIT OP CARNEDD LLEWELYN ITS ALTITUDE. 183 
 
 that are left. A huge carnedd of stones, erected by the Ordnance 
 surveyors to mark the highest portion of the mountain, occupies 
 the site of the camp ; and it is probable that during their stay 
 there the entrenchment around the stronghold was in some 
 measure effaced. The view from hence is scarcely exceeded by 
 any other mountain prospect in the Principality, and seen under 
 striking effects of light and shade, adds much to the dreaminess, 
 grandeur, and impressive aspect of the more distant heights. The 
 eye wanders over the vast wilds that encompass you on all sides, 
 including the lonely descent to the Waterfall at Aber endeared 
 to our memory by an incident of bygone days and from the com- 
 manding heights we occupied, was in the highest degree romantic 
 and sublime. 
 
 It was at one time uncertain whether Snowdon was really the 
 highest mountain in South Britain; it was affirmed by some 
 authorities that Carnedd Llewelyn was several yards higher ; but 
 the recent accurate trigonometrical admeasurement of the rival 
 monarchs by the officers of the Board of Ordnance puts this 
 quastio vexata beyond a doubt. The altitude of Carnedd Llewelyn 
 is 3,469 feet; whilst Snowdon is 3,571 feet, or something over 
 100 feet higher. Carnedd Davydd is scarcely inferior to its 
 neighbour, being 3,427 feet. 
 
 We observed several small llyns from the summit of Carnedd 
 Llewelyn; amongst them, nestling under the rugged steeps of 
 Craig Mawr and Craig Dulyn, the solitary pools Melynllyn and 
 Dulyn. There are llyns thus named in other parts of the Princi- 
 pality ; one we have already described Dulyn in the Harlech 
 district, in a former chapter. 
 
 We now prepared to return over the narrow ridge which 
 divides these mountains. As we slowly proceeded, we were both 
 silent from similar feelings, being lost in wonder and admiration 
 at the fitful gleams which flitted over the landscape. To the 
 south-west, a vast canopy of dark thunderclouds, "nursing their 
 wrath," seemed almost to rest on Moel-y-Wyddfa, the highest 
 peak of Snowdon, and the profound gloom which obscured the 
 recesses of the cwms or precipitous hollows on the sides of that 
 mighty mountain, or rather group of mountains, was relieved by 
 the comparatively smiling aspect of the rugged, weather-beaten
 
 184 SUMMIT OF CARNEDD DAVYDD PPYNNON LLOEB. 
 
 Glyders. A storm was evidently brewing, although some hours 
 might ekpse before it gathered to its full strength. We were 
 anxious to visit the summit of Carnedd Davydd before our return; 
 and as the ascent to it was not difficult from the elevated position 
 we were in, we hastened our movements. The distance between 
 the summits of these mountains is about two miles, and in the 
 course of less than an hour we found ourselves on the peak of 
 Carnedd Davydd. The view from hence is perhaps even finer 
 than from the lofty point we had so recently quitted. You have 
 here a magnificent bird's-eye peep of Nant Ffrancon, with Banger 
 and the Menai Straits in the distance ; and the Isle of Anglesea is 
 spread out before you like a map. In a deep cwm at your feet 
 repose the waters of Llyn Ffynnon Lloer, which signifies in English 
 the " Fountain of the Moon " quite a poetical appellation. This 
 pool is of very limited extent, but abounds in small trout, which rise 
 eagerly to the fly. After again resting for a short time at the 
 side of the carnedd, we commenced our descent, which we found 
 extremely rough and difficult, as the sides of the mountain are 
 very precipitous. Indeed, it was almost a continuous scramble 
 until we reached the brink of the llyn. Here we halted for a 
 brief space, for the purpose of angling, as we observed that the 
 fish were on the move. We had taken our rods with us, for the 
 purpose of trying this pool and Llyn Ogwen on our return. It 
 was really quite astonishing to witness the multitude of rises we 
 obtained ; but the trout were not in earnest, and evidently rose 
 in mere frolic. After remaining nearly an hour, we basketed only 
 about a dozen, the largest of which did not exceed a quarter of a 
 pound. They were very pretty yellow trout, and were probably 
 of good quality. Ffynnon Lloer, however, is not worth the 
 angler's notice ; besides, it is difficult and fatiguing to reach it. 
 From hence we proceeded on our course to the shore of Llyn 
 Ogwen, and without any exception we found the descent the 
 most difficult and perplexing of any mountain scramble we had 
 ever encountered. The mountain sides are strewed with large 
 masses of stone, torn and riven from the effects of the violent 
 storms which so frequently occur in these regions. There are 
 also several high and tottering dry stone walls to cross, which 
 are really dangerous unless you are very careful. After a most
 
 LLYN OGWEN SUNSET STORM. 185 
 
 fatiguing descent, which occupied more than an hour, we found 
 ourselves at sunset on the banks of Llyn Ogwen. The evening 
 was tranquil, and the glorious effulgence of the departing sun 
 gilding the loftiest summits of the surrounding mountains had a 
 gorgeous and imposing effect. This was, however, the treacherous 
 calm that preceded the storm. A nice ripple agitated the waters of 
 the lake, and we were once more tempted to try a cast before we 
 turned our steps to Capel Curig. Ogwen, however, like Tal-y- 
 Llyn, is not a shore-fishing lake ; nothing is to be done except 
 from a boat. We essayed in vain to lure the finny tribe from 
 their retreats, and in the course of half an hour we abandoned 
 the pursuit as hopeless. It was now quite time to hurry away 
 from the exquisite scenery around ; night was coming on, and the 
 tempest which had so long threatened was now, it was evident, 
 rapidly approaching the vale. Distant thunder was booming like the 
 report of artillery amongst the hills of Snowdon, and fitful flashes 
 of pale lightning might be observed nickering over the moun- 
 tain tops. How rapid are the changes which occur in mountainous 
 countries ! The wind, hitherto calm, now warned us of the 
 approach of the tempest ; it suddenly rose, and as it swept rapidly 
 up the valley, we could observe for some distance a column of 
 what appeared smoke, but it was in reality clouds of dust driven 
 on by the fury of the gale, and mingled with a deluge of rain, 
 which caught us before we could gain the road. Shelter there 
 was none ; we had no course to pursue but brave the fury of 
 the storm. We had lingered too long at Ogwen, and had now at 
 least four miles to travel through one of the most violent tem- 
 pests we had ever encountered. It soon became almost pitchy 
 dark, although midsummer ; the rain was a perfect deluge, and 
 the lightning incessant ; whilst the thunder rolled over our heads 
 with prolonged and deafening peals. It was indeed an awful 
 night, and our situation was anything but pleasant. The tempest 
 continued with unabated violence for several hours after we had 
 gained the comfortable shelter of the hotel. We were glad indeed 
 wet, hungry, and well nigh exhausted to hear old Jackson's 
 voice, as he welcomed us in. An excellent dinner, and a bottle of 
 his best port, soon reconciled us to the discomforts of the storm, 
 and rendered us unmindful of the elemental uproar without.
 
 186 LLYN IDWAL ITS GLOOMY ASPECT. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 LLYN IDWAL LEGENDS TWLL DU EXCURSION TO 'LLYN 
 IDWAL ANECDOTE LLYN OGWEN ANGLING TRAVELLING 
 IN WALES. 
 
 " By that lake, whose gloomy shore 
 Skylark never warbles o'er, 
 Where the cliff hangs high and steep, 
 Young St. Kevin stole to sleep. 
 * * * * 
 
 Glendalough ! thy gloomy wave 
 Soon was gentle Kathleen's grave." MOORE. 
 
 flgtt pfosl 
 
 has been styled by an eminent writer the Avernus of Wales ; and 
 certainly in savage grandeur and sublimity it far exceeds any 
 other scene that we are acquainted with in the Principality. It 
 lies in a gloomy hollow under the steeps of Llyder Vawr, and its 
 dark and sullen waters, in lowering stormy weather presenting a 
 deep leaden hue, give a still more, terrible aspect to this desolate 
 spot. Although it is in the immediate vicinity of Nant Ffrancon 
 and the Holyhead road, it is comparatively little frequented by 
 strangers ; a stray angler or two, a few ardent botanists in search 
 of the very rare plants which grow amongst the precipices and 
 deep-worn chasms, or the artist who ventures into the wilds to 
 delineate the " severer forms " of Nature's handiworks, are almost 
 the only visitors. The fact is, the majority of tourists in Wales 
 are acquainted only with the landscape which presents itself 
 from the road. Reclining at their ease in their car or car- 
 riage, they hurriedly pass through the finest scenery, contented 
 with the hasty glance which the rapidity of travelling affords, and 
 carry away with them merely a confused recollection of scenery 
 which, to be indelibly impressed on the memory, must be minutely
 
 LEGEND OP PRINCE IDWAL TWLL D&. 187 
 
 examined. Many of the finest mountain scenes, for instance, lie 
 away from the beaten track, and require nerve and vigorous 
 activity to reach. Then, again, time is required to effect a general 
 knowledge of the picturesque beauties of a country ; and how few, 
 even amongst pedestrian tourists, can afford to spare it. In the 
 course of our wanderings in the Principality, we have hardly ever 
 met amongst coffee-room acquaintance a single individual who was 
 not pressed for time ; and when we have mentioned some of the 
 most celebrated scenes as well worthy of a visit, and compara- 
 tively easy of access, we have been met with the reply, " Yes, we 
 should much like to go, but we are limited as to time." 
 
 Llyn Idwal formed the subject of one of the finest works of the 
 late G. F. Robson, a water-colour painter of great genius and 
 ability. The drawing was engraved, if we recollect rightly, for 
 Jones' "Yiews in Wales." We have since seen other drawings 
 and engravings of Llyn Idwal, but none of them could bear a 
 comparison to Robson's picture, who seems to have been imbued 
 with the spirit of a Wilson, so accurately has he depicted the 
 "bleak and stormy character of the scenery" of this remarkable 
 spot. 
 
 The lake derives its name from Idwal, a son of Owen Gwynedd, 
 one of the most famous of the Welsh princes. His father had 
 entrusted him to the care of a ruffian named Dunawt, who is said 
 to have been a descendant of one of the fifteen tribes of North 
 Wales. This treacherous guardian, according to the legend, 
 murdered the unfortunate youth, by hurling him headlong into 
 the Twll DU, or " Devil's Kitchen," a horrible black gully or 
 fissure, through which the surplus water of the little tarn called 
 Llyn-y-Cwn finds an exit into the waters of Llyn Idwal. The 
 motive for this dreadful deed is not stated; but it has at all events 
 given an infamous reputation to the locality, and even now it is 
 looked upon with dread by the superstitious mountaineers of the 
 country. Many are the fables which this legend has given birth 
 to ; amongst others, it is said that the spirit of the young prince 
 is still heard wailing from the Twll Du in stormy weather, which 
 noise may be attributed to the wind, which at such times rushes 
 down the gap with furious impetuosity. It is also said to be the 
 haunt of demons, and that no bird is ever seen to fly over its
 
 188 EXPLORATION OF TWLL DU PERILOUS FEAT. 
 
 waters.* A modern tourist has averred that no fish are now to 
 be found in the lake, and there are a host of other tales equally 
 as absurd and improbable narrated by the lovers of the marvellous. 
 
 Jtt. 
 
 \-/ 
 
 The most singular feature about Llyn Idwal is the Twll Du, 
 which signifies the " Black Cleft ; " it is, however, sometimes 
 called the " Devil's Kitchen." We believe that we are amongst 
 the few that have ever ventured to explore this gloomy fissure to 
 its full extent, that is, until you arrive at a perpendicular precipice, 
 which, black and slimy from the water that trickles over it, for- 
 bids further approach. It is only during dry weather that you 
 can attempt the exploit ; after heavy rain there is sometimes a 
 considerable body of water rushing through the gap, which pre- 
 vents ingress even at the outset. It was in June, 1843, during 
 an angling excursion to the lake, that we accomplished this some- 
 what hazardous feat. We were tempted to do so by a spirit of 
 adventure, and as there was scarcely any water flowing through 
 the cleft at the time, it seemed apparently so easy, that we deter- 
 mined to explore it. It was, however, much more difficult than 
 we had calculated, for the rocks over which we clambered were 
 so slimy, that it was with considerable risk we surmounted the 
 obstacles we had to encounter, and narrowly escaped on one or 
 two occasions of falling down the rocks we clung to, to the 
 hazard of our limbs. We had some hopes when we had got well 
 into the cleft of making our way fairly through it, but we soon 
 found this to be impossible. The rocks in the fissure are covered 
 with a black slimy moss, which, constantly moist with the spray 
 of the falling waters, renders this narrow gully dark and horrible 
 
 * Tn Dr. Campbell's " Strictures on the Ecclesiastical and Literary History 
 of Ireland," we find the following passage descriptive of a lake in Ireland 
 which greatly resembles in general features the remarkable scenery surround- 
 ing Llyn Idwal. " There is a lake in Donegal, one of the most dismal and 
 dreary spots in the north, almost inaccessible, through deep glens and rugged 
 mountains, frightful with impending rocks, and the hollow marmurs of the 
 western winds in dark caverns, peopled only with such fantastic beings as the 
 mind, however gay, is from the strange association wont to appropriate to such 
 gloomy scenes."
 
 LEGENDS MONOCULAR FIbH LLYN-T-CWN. 189 
 
 enough. We were therefore glad to make our exit as soon as 
 possible from this gloomy place, as there was still sufficient water 
 falling from above to cause a considerable spray, which would 
 speedily have wet us to the skin. 
 
 Twll Du is stated to be about 150 yards long, about 100 
 deep and six feet wide, "perpendicularly open to the face of 
 the mountain." This is hardly correct, as it is not perpen- 
 dicular, until you enter some way into the cleft. The ascent to 
 Twll Du is by a very rough slippery path, resembling the dry 
 bed of a mountain torrent full of large boulders, from the south- 
 west side of the lake. This path leads over the precipices called 
 Castell-y-Geifr, the connecting link between the Glyder and Llyder 
 Vawr. Once on the top, you can either turn to the left towards 
 the summit of Glyder Bach, or proceed over the " chilly mountain 
 waste " to the vale of Llanberis. There are few harder pulls in 
 Wales than this, and especially after rain the path is so slippery, 
 that, unless very careful, you stand a chance of "measuring your 
 length" on the ground. 
 
 Miss Costello, in her highly coloured sketch of Llyn Idwal, has 
 adopted some of the absurd legends of the country, and avers 
 that " in memory of the tragedy acted here, the fish, of which 
 there was formerly a profusion, were all deprived, according to 
 received tradition, of one eye, the left being closed ; as there are 
 now no fish in the lake, it is impossible to verify the truth of this 
 legend." There is, however, no foundation for these assertions. 
 The fable of the monocular fish belongs to a neighbouring lake, 
 Llyn-y-Cwn, which, as we have already mentioned, pours its 
 waters into Twll Du. If we rightly recollect, this " singular 
 variety of trout " was first alluded to by that generally accurate 
 topographer and historian, Giraldus Cambrensis, in his "Itinerary," 
 and afterwards adopted by Daines Barrington and others. Un- 
 fortunately, no fish at present exist in Llyn-y-Cwn to attest to the 
 truth of the assertion. There are other pools in Wales which are 
 also said to contain monocular perch and trout, but we never yet 
 met with an angler who was fortunate to catch any. The story 
 is altogether improbable, and has its origin in some of the tra- 
 ditionary records of the murder of Prince Idwal. The assertion 
 that no fish exist in Llyn Idwal is equally erroneous. Here at
 
 190 TROUT IN LLYN IDWAL NARROW ESCAPE. 
 
 least " the truth of the legend " is completely contradicted : Llyn 
 Idwal abounds with small trout, furnished with eyes similar to 
 their congeners, and if you happen to hit upon a favourable day, 
 you may soon fill your basket. The quality of the fish, however, 
 is vastly inferior to those caught in Llyn Ogwen; indeed, as 
 regards quality, the Llyn Ogwen fish are far superior to any 
 variety of trout found in Wales, and resemble those caught in 
 some of the best Scottish lakes. The most delicious trout, by 
 the way, we ever remember to have tasted, were caught in a small 
 llyn, or loch, as it is termed in Scotland, lying about four miles 
 from Gatehouse of Fleet, in the Stewartry of Kirkcudbright. In 
 size they were from one-quarter to three-quarters of a pound 
 weight, and were so fat, that they actually fried themselves. The 
 flesh was quite red, and the flavour exquisite. In our youthful 
 days we spent some time on a sporting excursion through Gallo- 
 way, and several times visited this lake, which was called after a 
 gallic word, Whynnion. On one occasion, on a mild misty day 
 in June, we caught from a boat four dozen magnificent fish, which 
 weighed about twenty-five pounds. The Loch Leven trout have 
 also a high reputation, and are frequently during the season to be 
 met with in the London market. Trout, however, are so delicate 
 a 1 fish, that they will not bear carriage, and are never so good as 
 when cooked immediately after being caught. 
 
 LLYN IDWAL is supposed in some places to be immensely deep ; 
 and if colour is any index, the supposition would appear to be 
 correct. Some years ago, during a short sojourn at Bala, a 
 
 Mr. W , a gentleman well known as a keen sportsman in that 
 
 neighbourhood, informed us that when a boy he had had a very 
 narrow escape from drowning in Llyn Idwal. He was fishing at 
 the lake, in company with his father, who had temporarily scaled 
 one of the adjacent rocks in search of a rare plant. During his 
 
 father's absence, Mr. W had posted himself on the summit of 
 
 a rock impending over deep water; and whilst angling there, a 
 sudden gust of wind carried off his hat, and in endeavouring to 
 save it, he lost his footing and was precipitated headlong into the 
 lake. Although unable to swim, on coming to the surface, he 
 providentially came in contact with a portion of sunken rock: 
 upon this he got, and loudly called for help. Fortunately his
 
 CAPEL CURIG SUBLIME APPEARANCE AT SUNRISE. 191 
 
 father heard his cries, came to his assistance, and speedily rescued 
 him from his dangerous position. 
 
 There was formerly a small boat upon this pool; if we rightly 
 remember, at the period of our last visit, the remains of the 
 sunken wreck were still visible near the shore. We are not suffi- 
 ciently well acquainted with Idwal to be able to point out any 
 particular parts most favourable for the angler. We have gene- 
 rally fished the east shore, and on one or two occasions have had 
 fair sport. 
 
 (faxtnnian ta $Ip $ofoal. 
 
 Our first visit to Llyn Idwal occurred early in the autumn of 
 1841. We were sojourning for a few days at Capel Curig, the 
 weather at the time being wet and stormy. Early one morning, 
 we were aroused from our bed by the guide, Robin Hughes, who 
 imparted the pleasing intelligence that the rain had ceased, and the 
 morning was fine and cloudless. We hastily obeyed his summons ; 
 and never shall we forget the magnificent spectacle that greeted 
 us from the garden terrace. The clouds had certainly cleared 
 away overhead, but the mountain tops were shrouded in mist. 
 The summit of Snowdon appeared covered with a bright luminous 
 vapour, resembling the aurora borealis, which seemed like a 
 crown of glory on his hoary brow, and brought to our remem- 
 brance the sublime words of the Psalmist : 
 
 " Bow thy heavens, Lord, and come down : touch the mountains, and they 
 shall smoke." 
 
 " Nature," remarks an eloquent writer, " in her own majestic 
 features remains the same; the everlasting hills, the unchange- 
 able changes of the seasons are the same for us as for the 
 departed nations whose homes and tombs are beneath the clods 
 around us." This sublime appearance lasted but a very short 
 time, and 
 
 " Like the snow-flake on the river, 
 A moment seen, then lost for ever." 
 
 We have never subsequently observed the same effects at sun- 
 rise in this region, but we have several times witnessed some
 
 192 HEARING OP FISH SINGULAR FACT. 
 
 remarkably gorgeous colouring' during foggy weather, on the 
 summits of the neighbouring hills, as the sun was retiring on 
 the western horizon. But to return to our narrative. Having 
 despatched breakfast, we summoned our guide to council, and 
 decided to visit Llyn Idwal, and afterwards, if practicable, to 
 ascend the mountains by Twll Du, and from thence proceed to 
 Llanberis, and up the Pass back to Capel Curig. As the morning 
 advanced, the sun in some measure dispersed the mist, and occa- 
 sionally we caught passing glimpses of the majestic heights of 
 Carnedds Llewelyn and Davydd, and some other mountains of 
 lesser magnitude. As Roscoe forcibly observes, "Glorious in 
 their silent, shadowy grandeur, were those half-seen mountains, 
 rearing their storm-riven heads like giant spectres, and looking 
 sternly and scornfully on little things below." Llyn Ogwen lay 
 before us as placid as the surface of a mirror, the air was crisp 
 and bracing all nature appeared at rest, and we thought we had 
 never seen the scenery of that romantic valley to such great 
 advantage. Owing to the deluge of rain that had fallen for 
 several previous days, the path was not only very wet but 
 slippery : and during our walk from the high road to Llyn Idwal 
 we experienced a severe fall, which had very nearly brought our 
 enterprise to a conclusion. We were engaged at the time in con- 
 templating the magnificent Falls of Benglog, which were consider- 
 ably heightened in effect from the recent heavy rains. In turning 
 suddenly round we trod upon the slippery rock, and fell upon our 
 back with considerable force ; for a time we were much stunned 
 and shaken, but a " nip " from our flask soon restored us, and we 
 proceeded on our way with greater caution. 
 
 In passing Llyn Ogwen, our guide related a singular fact with 
 regard to the hearing of fish, a question still in dispute amongst 
 naturalists. It has sometimes been supposed that the alarm of 
 fish proceeds from the vibration of the water, and not from a 
 sense of hearing. Be this as it may, the following account we 
 were assured by the guide was strictly true. Some years ago, 
 whilst some men were engaged in netting Llyn Ogwen, a violent 
 thunder-storm came on ; and after several ineffectual endeavours 
 to catch fish, they suddenly at the upper end of the Llyn had an 
 immense haul ; it seemed as if all the fish in the pool had huddled
 
 SMILES AND TEARS A YORKSHIRE MINER. 193 
 
 together in that particular part. This phenomenon can only be 
 accounted for by the supposition that the vibration of the water, 
 caused by the heavy thunder, had alarmed the fish and driven 
 them from their usual haunts. 
 
 " Has the reader ever found himself alone on some unfrequented 
 path, amidst the 'everlasting hills' and bold gigantic forms of 
 primeval nature, shaped and fashioned, it may be, in some sense, 
 by the slow wear of almost unnumbered ages ? " Has he ever 
 found himself warmed into enthusiasm, and, forgetful of the diffi- 
 culties which beset his path, lost in contemplating the stern 
 grandeur, the desolation of some of the solitudes, amongst the 
 wild blue hills of Cambria? If not, let him forthwith make a 
 pilgrimage to Llyn Idwal. Such were our thoughts as we paused 
 to survey from Castell-y-Geifr the ruins of nature which lay 
 scattered around us. From this point Nant Ffrancon, the 
 "Beavers' Hollow," is seen to great advantage; and such was 
 the intense stillness, that we could hear the roar of the cataract 
 of Benglog with startling distinctness. We were, however, 
 unfortunately prevented from minutely examining the scenery of 
 Llyn Idwal, owing to one of those sudden changes of the weather 
 which so frequently occur in alpine countries. The smiling aspect 
 of the morning passed rapidly away, and was succeeded by glooms 
 on the mountain tops, and dark clouds began to hover over the 
 lake. This gave the scenery that savage aspect which is its finest 
 phase. . . . Long before we reached the vale, the rain began to 
 descend in torrents, and soon the whole of the mountains and 
 valley were enveloped in impenetrable mist. On arriving at 
 Llanberis, we were glad to seek the nearest shelter, and speedily 
 found ourselves before a roaring peat fire discussing the merits of 
 a jug of excellent cwrw, and such rude entertainment as the 
 " public" afforded. Here we were detained several hours ; our 
 guide in the meanwhile amusing us with a detail of sundry adven- 
 tures he had met with in the mountains. Our host was a York- 
 shire miner ; he had migrated hither forty years before, married a 
 Welsh girl, and in short had become so completely forgetful of 
 " fatherland " as to speak his own native language very imper- 
 fectly. He had, in fact, been completely transformed into a 
 Welshman in everything except his appearance, which retained 
 

 
 194 LLYN OGWEN SUPEBIOR QUALITY OF ITS TROUT. 
 
 unmistakeable evidence of his Saxon or Danish origin. Our 
 homeward journey to Capel Curig was performed in the dark, 
 and with plenty of wind and rain to add to our discomfort ; we 
 afterwards regretted that we did not remain at our humble 
 quarters and "rough" it through the night. 
 
 This fine pool lies in a valley called Nant Ogwen, at the head 
 of Nant Ffrancon, and is bounded on the north by Braich Der, 
 the "Black Arm," a portion of the lofty precipices of Carnedd 
 Davydd. The Great Holyhead road runs along its southern shore 
 for the whole of its length. Llyn Ogwen is about three-quarters 
 of a mile long from east to west ; its breadth at the widest part 
 is probably about three furlongs. The scenery around it is 
 exceedingly grand and impressive, but in point of picturesque 
 beauty it is not to be compared to Llyn Gwynant or the lakes of 
 Llanberis ; neither will it bear comparison in sublimity 3 to its 
 sullen neighbour Llyn Idwal. This lake, like several others in 
 Caernarvonshire, is chiefly fished from a boat. There are at least 
 four boats on the pool, two of which belong to the hotel at Capel 
 Curig, and the others to the miners or quarrymen in the vicinity. 
 From the superior quality of the trout, this lake enjoys a high 
 reputation amongst anglers, and is now the principal attraction to 
 sportsmen frequenting Capel Curig. Angling here, as at Bedd- 
 gelert, is expensive, as the lake is about four miles from the hotel, 
 and most of the anglers who visit it prefer to ride. The charge 
 for a car and driver is about six shillings ; this, in addition to a 
 boatman, would involve an expense of eight or nine shillings per 
 day. If, however, you walk, and manage your own boat, you can 
 have it, we believe, gratis, provided no cars are going there, 
 which of course command a preference. 
 
 The Ogwen trout are amongst the most beautiful in Wales, 
 and they are certainly far superior in quality to any others we 
 have met. They are generally of a bright rich yellow colour, and 
 the flesh when cooked is quite red. There are, however, as in 
 most lakes, at least two varieties. In former days, before the
 
 A SUCCESSFUL ANGLER SPORT AT LLTN OGWEN. 195 
 
 increase of a mining population, the sport on this lake must have 
 been first rate, as the trout run from half a pound to a pound, or 
 even larger; now, during the summer months, there are seldom 
 less than four hoats at work from morning until night on favour- 
 able days, and the trout have in consequence become wary. 
 Although they still rise freely, you are tantalized with a great 
 many "false rises," and seldom, unless a very expert hand, get 
 good sport. We have, some years ago, met with very fair sport 
 here, taking some fine fish; but, generally speaking, first-rate 
 sport at Ogwen belongs to the past. 
 
 The most successful angler we ever met with at Llyn Ogwen 
 
 was the late Mr. A d. This gentleman seldom came without 
 
 filling his basket ; but he knew the lake well, and the most killing 
 flies, all of which he made himself. He used a short, supple 
 Irish rod, and had generally eight flies on his " foot link." With 
 one exception, he was the most accomplished fisherman we ever 
 met with. His manipulation was perfect, a most important 
 desideratum in boat fishing. 
 
 Llyn Ogwen belongs to the Hon. Col. Douglas Pennant, M.P. 
 of Penrhyn Castle, near Bangor, who most liberally permits all 
 fair anglers free permission. This lake is, we believe, carefully 
 preserved during the spawning season from the depredations of 
 poachers, as at that period the large fish full of spawn get 
 into the brooks, and would fall an easy prey to the peasantry and 
 others in the locality. 
 
 Llyn Ogwen at the lower extremity is shallow, and the bottom 
 is strewed with large stones, which, when the lake is low, fre- 
 quently peep above water. We have found good fishing ground 
 at the head of the pool, but we prefer a " drift " through the 
 centre of the llyn, especially if the wind is blowing from the west. 
 There is also some good water along the south shore. The flies 
 here are in general similar to those used in other lakes in the 
 country. In June the "Llyn Ogwen fly," "peahen," "alder," 
 and " fernshaw," are generally " sure cards." Much, however, 
 depends on wind and weather. Generally speaking, on a dull 
 misty day, with a good breeze, the best sport is obtained; indeed, 
 it is useless to fish Ogwen without a rattling breeze. 
 
 o2
 
 196 SCENERY OF NANT FFRANCON SUBLIME EFFECTS. 
 
 $lant <f frrniton. 
 
 This celebrated valley, the " Beavers' Hollow " so called from 
 being in former times the resort of beavers is situate amongst 
 the grandest and most stupendous scenery in North Wales. 
 Telford's great work, the London and Holyhead road, passes 
 through its whole extent, crossing the brawling Ogwen above the 
 " Falls of Benglog." The scene presented to the eye is one of 
 stern desolation; steep and craggy piles of naked rock rise 
 abruptly from the base of Carnedd Davydd, and which, from the 
 effect of the elements, are sometimes detached from the impending 
 cliffs above, and fall in immense masses, with thundering im- 
 petuosity, into the valley beneath. Narrow escapes have been 
 recorded on different occasions to travellers passing through the 
 vale. On one occasion, some years ago, the road was completely 
 blocked up for a time by one of these rocky avalanches ; and a 
 gentleman in a carriage, on his way to Bangor, had just passed 
 before the disruption took place ; a few minutes later, and he 
 would have been completely overwhelmed. 'At the bottom of the 
 valley the eye rests upon a narrow strip of verdure, through 
 which the infant Ogwen winds its course. It is, however, the 
 oasis of the desert, the adjacent rocks being " scathed, verdure- 
 less, and shivered." The scene, in consequence, is exceedingly 
 wild and dreary a combination, in short, of the "picturesque 
 and terrible " in some of its most sublime features. The finest 
 view of Nant Ffrancon is, perhaps, on the approach from Bangor ; 
 this more especially in dark, lowering weather, when the colouring 
 of the landscape is wonderfully fine and imposing. Under any 
 phase, however, this wonderful spot affords magnificent, soul- 
 stirring effects. 
 
 TRAVELLING IN WALES. There are three methods of travelling 
 in Wales ; either on horseback, on wheels, or on foot. The first 
 method, if you are well mounted, enables you to get over a great 
 deal of ground without fatigue, and to rapidly traverse such parts 
 of the country as are dreary and uninteresting. When you arrive 
 at a town or village where a great deal is to be seen off the road, 
 take the opportunity to rest your steed, and explore the scenery
 
 TRAVELLING IN WALES DIFFERENT METHODS. 197 
 
 on foot. By following this plan, you not only keep your horse 
 up to his work, but being fresh yourself, you are benefited by 
 the change of exercise, and much better enabled to stand the 
 fatigue of mountain climbing than such as are jaded by the toil of 
 long marches on the turnpike-road. This applies also to the 
 second method, but you are more independent on horseback. As 
 regards expense, a horseback-tour is decidedly more economical : 
 your horse frees your bed, and the cost of his keep ought not to 
 be more than four shillings and sixpence per diem, ostler included. 
 Travelling by one-horse car costs one shilling per mile, which,, 
 with tolls and drivers, amounts to a great deal in the course of 
 an extended tour. This, of course, where two or three join 
 together, reduces the expense ; but even then it is much more 
 expensive than horseback. Pedestrianism is by far the most 
 independent mode of travelling; but as regards economy, taking 
 time into consideration, we much question whether it is not in 
 the long run nearly, if not quite, as expensive as horseback. For 
 instance, you cannot, in hot summer weather, get over more than 
 eighteen or twenty miles a day on foot, and even this distance 
 kept up de die in diem, for any length of time, produces fever and 
 lassitude. On horseback, when necessary, you can ride forty 
 miles without experiencing more than a pleasant fatigue when 
 you arrive at the end of your day's progress. The pedestrian 
 traveller, unless very robust and in good training, is more fit for 
 his bed than his supper at the end of a long, hot, dusty day's 
 march, and is, moreover, frequently footsore and lame, the 
 painful effects of which we have ourselves often experienced. To 
 preserve your feet from galls, wear lamb's-wool socks, previously 
 anointing the feet, particularly the heels, with mutton fat. This 
 plan we have found from experience completely prevents galling. 
 From what we have thus stated, we think we have proved the 
 superior advantages to be derived from horseback travelling; 
 this, when combined with occasional pedestrian rambles, is not 
 only far more enjoyable, but enables you, even after a month or 
 six weeks' excursion, to come home benefited in health from the 
 effects of the pure mountain air you have inhaled, or the delight- 
 ful invigorating sea-breezes you have enjoyed ; and your steed, by 
 careful management, will also look all the better for his work.
 
 198 SUPERIORITY OF TRAVELLING ON HORSEBACK. 
 
 In the course of many excursions into the Principality, we 
 have travelled by all the modes of transit we have just described, 
 and, from experience, we infinitely prefer horseback, not only on 
 the score of economy, but for health and enjoyment.. 
 
 In the summer of 1840 we made a tour through North Wales 
 on horseback, beginning at Monmonth. We rode to Conway, 
 the Ultima Thule of North Wales, and from thence back through 
 Llangollen and the English border to our starting-point. We 
 were out twenty-three days ; and during that period accomplished 
 a distance of 409^ miles on horseback, 37 miles by car, and about 
 107 miles on foot ; making an average rate of twenty-four miles 
 per day. This, however, does not include Sunday, on which day 
 we always rested. At some places, also, we remained a day or 
 two, and to make up "lee-way" we frequently rode upwards of 
 forty-five miles a day, when detained by bad weather or by sundry 
 excursions on foot.
 
 THE TEIPI ITS WILD MOUNTAIN SOURCE. 199 
 
 , CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 THE TEEPI ITS SOUKCE PISHING STATIONS SALMON AND TBOUT 
 FISHING TREGARON BEATERS LLTN BBRWYN EXCURSION 
 TO THE LAKE ANGLING SINGULAR CAPTURE OF A TROUT 
 TEIFI FISHING LLANDDEWI BREVI. 
 
 " Sith I must stem thy stream, clear Teifi, yet before 
 The muse vouchsafe to seize the Cardiganian shore 
 She of thy source will sing in all the Cambrian coast : 
 Which of thy castors* once, but now canst only boast 
 Thy salmons, of all floods most plentiful in thee. 
 Then Teifi cometh down from her capacious llyn 
 'Twist Mirk and Brenny led, two handmaids that do stay 
 Their mistress, as in state she goes upon her way." 
 
 DBAYTON. 
 
 &\t faifi. 
 
 OF all the streams that gladden the vales of Cambria, the 
 " beauteous Teifi," as old Drayton poetically terms it, is one of 
 the most picturesque and romantic. Its parent is Llyn Teifi, a 
 dark, sullen pool, in one of the wildest mountain retreats in 
 Wales, and, with the exception of Llyn Egnant, the largest of the 
 group called the "Teifi lakes." These are five in number, and 
 lie in close contiguity on the summit of a bleak, barren, dreary 
 range of hills, called by Giraldus, Ellenith, which signifies " the 
 heights of marshy places." These hills stretch away to the 
 north-east of the once famous abbey of Ystrad Flur, or Strata 
 Florida. Ystrad Flur, " the Blooming Vale," so called, we suppose, 
 to distinguish its comparative fertility from the desolate wilderness 
 above it. Ystrad in Welsh means a vale or flat formed by a 
 river. Through this "deep, wild solitude," the Teifi winds its 
 devious way, the ground "horrible with the sight of bare stones," 
 
 * The beaver.
 
 200 BANKS OP THE TEIFI PASTORAL SCENERY. 
 
 as Leland expresses it in his own peculiar phraseology until 
 it arrives at Pontrhydvendigaid, the "Bridge of the Blessed or 
 Holy Ford," evidently a monkish appellation. This retired village 
 contains a tolerably comfortable inn, the Red Lion ; and here the 
 Teifi fishing may be said to commence. 
 
 The river from hence to Tregaron flows in a gentle stream 
 through an extensive peat morass, called Gors Goch Lan Teifi, 
 and presents to the eye a dreary appearance, similar to that so 
 frequently observed 'in the wilds of Ireland. 
 
 Although the Teifi is in its youth, in some parts of its course 
 through this morass it is very deep, and contains large trout, 
 some of them from four pounds to five pounds weight, which 
 afford fine sport when on the hook ; they are, however, exceed- 
 ingly wary, and a strong breeze is indispensable to ensure sport. 
 Below Pont Trecefel, one mile from Tregaron, the river becomes 
 fordable, and from thence flows in a rapid stream deep pools 
 occasionally intervening, the haunt of salmon for many miles 
 through a beautifully diversified valley in its course to Lampeter, 
 one of the most important fishing-stations on its banks. The 
 Teifi, generally speaking, is free to the angler through the 
 whole of its extent; above Pont Trecefel, we believe Colonel 
 Powell, of Nanteos, claims the manorial " right of water ; " but, 
 we apprehend, the angler would find little difficulty in obtaining 
 leave. 
 
 On a fine balmy day in spring, when the trees are assuming 
 their mantle of green, and 
 
 " The voice of the turtle is heard in the land," 
 
 we know of few more enjoyable rambles than a quiet stroll along 
 the banks of this lovely stream. The scene is redolent of sim- 
 plicity and pastoral delights; the deep repose and tranquillity 
 of hill and dale, the music of the murmuring waters, are full 
 of softness and harmony. The gentle "songs of spring" are 
 
 heard 
 
 " Amid the hills that shrine 
 A scene so tranquil." 
 
 The Teifi is an early river ; the best time for trout fishing is in 
 March and April, especially when the river is clearing after a
 
 SALMON AND TROUT PISHING SPORT. 201 
 
 flood. As a general rule, all the Welsh rivers are best in early 
 spring ; when the season is mild and genial, and the rivers free 
 from " snow broth," the angler will generally obtain sport. After 
 the month of April, when the leaves are out, river fishing is of 
 little account in Wales, and the angler must betake himself to the 
 lakes. The banks of the river below Tregaron are generally open 
 and clear of wood, but about one mile below Pont Trecefel on the 
 right bank are several creeks of water, which apparently once 
 formed the bed of the river, and are difficult to cross ; you are 
 therefore sometimes obliged to make a detour. To avoid this 
 annoyance, we recommend the sportsman to keep on the Tregaron 
 side, on which he will find easy access to the banks of the stream. 
 There are many excellent " runs," or what are sometimes termed 
 " swims " of water between Tregaron and Pont Llanio, near the 
 ancient Roman station, Loventium ; indeed, all the way to Llan- 
 fair Clydogan, there is some capital water. At Llanfair, near the 
 lead-mines, a Roman road, called Sarn Helen, crosses the river. 
 
 The length of the Teifi from its mountain source to its influx 
 with the sea at Cardigan, where it forms an estuary, may be 
 roughly estimated at about sixty miles. It passes in its course 
 several towns and villages, which are all good angling stations ; 
 amongst the principal of which are Pontrhydvendigaid, Tregaron, 
 Lampeter, Llandyssil, and Newcastle Emlyn. The three last- 
 mentioned places are noted for their excellent salmon fishing. 
 For trout fishing, we infinitely prefer Tregaron, as here you have 
 also the advantage of being in the neighbourhood of several 
 lakes. The Teifi abounds in salmon and trout; the former 
 are considered equal if not superior in quality to any in Wales, 
 and during the season the " take " is considerable. The coracle, 
 the ancient British boat, is used by the native fishermen employed 
 in netting, as it still is in the Dyfi, the Wye, and other rivers. A 
 considerable number of fish are also captured by the rod. Trout 
 of considerable size are occasionally taken by the fly, and in some 
 parts of the river, both above and below Tregaron, first-rate sport 
 is obtained. A friend of ours, a few years ago, whilst angling 
 near Lampeter, caught a number of very fine trout during the 
 flights of the cob-fly, after the river was clearing from " a fresh." 
 The Teifi is subject to heavy floods, and during their continuance
 
 202 TREGARON ITS ANTIQUITY AND SECLUSION. 
 
 is much discoloured, assuming for a few hours a deep red appear- 
 ance ; like most rapid streams, however, it soon clears, and then 
 the angler cannot fail to kill some fine fish. It is singular that 
 the flights of the Cob-fly are but of short duration ; when they 
 disappear from the water, the fish are so completely glutted that 
 very little sport is obtained during the rest of the day. 
 
 This secluded village is situate on the verge of the untamed 
 and trackless mountain district of Cardiganshire ; a region little 
 known, and still less frequented by the stranger, and as primitive 
 and solitudinous as imagination can conceive. 
 
 Tregaron is of ancient origin, a place in fact of considerable 
 antiquity, and derives its name from St. Caron, " a Welsh prince 
 who was canonized in the third century." There are several very 
 old monumental stones in the churchyard, supposed to be coeval 
 with the sixth century. At the time of our first visit, the inn at 
 Tregaron was a wretched alehouse ; of late years, however, a 
 most respectable inn, called the "Victoria," has been erected, 
 where the angler will meet with every comfort. The landlord, 
 Mr. Rees, who is very civil and obliging, is a farmer and exten- 
 sive flock-master, possessing a large mountain farm and several 
 thousand sheep. We have rarely met with more comfortable 
 quarters, or more reasonable charges, than at the " Victoria." 
 
 There is nothing very inviting about the village itself, but it is 
 pleasantly situate on the little river Berwyn, which flows through 
 the village from a very romantic dingle called Cwm Berwyn, at 
 the head of which it has its source. A large tributary to the 
 Berwyn, which flows through Nant-y-Groes, has its origin in Llyn 
 Crugnant, and joins the Berwyn about one mile above Tregaron. 
 The confluence of the Berwyn with the Teifi is at Pont Trecefel, a 
 mile below the village. Altogether, Tregaron is the most pleasant 
 fishing station we are acquainted with in South Wales ; there are, 
 besides, several most interesting remains, Roman and British, in 
 the immediate vicinity, to engage the attention of the antiquary, 
 and the sportsman may pass a few weeks in the enjoyment of
 
 WILD HILL-SCENERY - BEAVERS LLYN BERWYN. 203 
 
 angling amidst scenery composed of wide-spreading mountains, 
 vast and grand in their aspect ; and though not distinguished by 
 natural beauty, yet these wild hills possess a charm in their loneli- 
 ness which constitutes a powerful attraction to the solitary wan- 
 derer. In order to form some conception of this desolate region, 
 Malkin, in his description of Cardiganshire, remarks, that a journey 
 of sixty miles, in the direction of these mountain tops, might be 
 taken almost without gate, road, or human habitation being en- 
 countered ! 
 
 One of our chief enjoyments in a country such as we have 
 endeavoured to describe, is to explore the recesses of some lonely 
 cwm, watered by a " babbling brook," its source, perchance, in a 
 sequestered mountain llyn, by the shores of which we delight to 
 wander in quest of sport, " read sermons in stones, and good in 
 everything." 
 
 Drayton, in his " Poly-Olbion," alludes to the existence of the 
 beaver in Wales, that curious animal being formerly abundant on 
 the banks of the Teifi, a portion of which, flowing through a flat 
 marshy swamp, would appear to be exactly adapted to the habits 
 of those creatures. Other parts of Wales were also frequented 
 by the beaver, amongst which Nant Ffrancon; and other lakes 
 and streams have borne the beaver's name for centuries. In the 
 laws of Howel Dda, unquestionable evidence is afforded of the 
 existence of this animal in the Principality, for the value of a 
 beaver's skin is there distinctly specified. When this interesting 
 animal became finally extirpated does not appear to be known. 
 
 " Embosomed in the silent hills, 
 Where quiet sleeps, and care is calm, 
 And all the air is breathing balm." 
 
 THOMAS MILLER. 
 
 This solitary pool lies in the mountains at the head of Cwm 
 Berwyn, about five miles from Tregaron. You follow a tolerably 
 good parish road by the side of the river Berwyn, until you reach 
 the head of the vale. Here you turn oft" over the uplands to the 
 right, beyond which, in a hollow at the distance of a mile from
 
 204 DESCRIPTION OF LLTN BERWYN ITS DEPTH. 
 
 the road, the lake reposes. A more wild, dreary scene than that 
 which surrounds the llyn, it would be difficult to conceive ; this 
 naked kind of scenery, however, is a characteristic of all the 
 Cardiganshire lakes. There the wild waters gleam in the midst 
 of a shelterless waste, and should rough weather occur during 
 your visit, you must rely upon the virtues of your macintosh, for 
 there is not even a crevice where you can obtain refuge from a 
 storm. 
 
 Llyn Berwyn is not a very large piece of water ; and not nearly 
 so extensive as one or two lakes of the Teifi group. It is some- 
 what oval in shape, and is probably about three furlongs in length 
 from north to south, by two in breadth. The small brook that 
 flows from it at its southern extremity forms one of the sources 
 of the river Dothie, which joins the Towy in the "land of the 
 gorges." The river Berwyn has no connexion whatever with this 
 lake, and flows in quite a contrary direction. We were informed 
 by a local fisherman, that the middle of the lake was exceedingly 
 deep about fifty yards and that it contained some very large 
 trout. On one occasion, he said, whilst fishing there in a boat, 
 he rose a trout at least four pounds weight, and at different times 
 he had taken some exceedingly nice fish. 
 
 Our first excursion to Llyn Berwyn occurred early in May, 
 1855, during a short stay at Tregaron. The weather at the time 
 was rather cold and showery, and in consequence of the easterly 
 winds and frosty nights of the preceding month, the country, 
 even at this advanced period of the year, seemed almost as 
 verdureless and leafless as winter. Notwithstanding the un- 
 favourable weather, we were determined to try our hand at the 
 lake, where, from local report, we were informed that the sport 
 was sometimes first-rate. We therefore, in company with a friend, 
 started from Tregaron about nine o'clock, on a dull, rainy-looking 
 morning. We had no guide except the map, but we found our 
 way thither without the least difficulty. Shortly after our arrival, 
 a drizzling rain set in, which with the fog down on the hills, and 
 a nice ripple on the water, afforded promise of success. We, 
 however, fished for some time without even a rise, but this we 
 partly accounted for from our entire ignorance of the proper flies. 
 
 Fortune at last favoured us in rather a singular manner. We
 
 SINGULAR CAPTURE OF A TROUT GOOD SPORT. 205 
 
 had patiently " flogged " the water for upwards of an hour, when, 
 on coming round to the east shore, our attention was directed to 
 what seemed a large trout, rising or rather moving on the top of 
 the water, about two yards from the edge, close to a large stone 
 which rose about a foot above the surface. After watching the 
 movements of the fish for a few moments, we became convinced 
 that the trout was entangled, and that his movements on the 
 surface were occasioned by his efforts to escape. Notwithstand- 
 ing the pelting of a smart shower, we hastened to doff our nether 
 garments, and waded to the scene of action. Here we found our 
 conjecture correct, and speedily laid hold of a " gut bottom," 
 to which was attached four excellent flies and a large trout of 
 nearly one pound weight, which we soon secured and brought to 
 land. From the condition of the flies, it seemed probable that 
 they had not been under water more than a day or two, and had 
 evidently belonged to a gentleman, from their superior quality. 
 Be this as it may, we immediately attached them to our own line, 
 and shortly after killed our first fish. We caught, in all, on this 
 occasion, nine trout, the smallest of which weighed six ounces ; 
 several were more than half a pound. We have no doubt that if 
 we had commenced earlier in the day, with the right flies, we 
 should have taken a full basket of fish. Our companion did not 
 obtain a rise, showing that his flies were wrong. 
 
 We were so much pleased with the lake and the quality of the 
 trout which when in full season are really very handsome fish 
 that we repeated our visit on the following day. The weather 
 was very favourable warm, with occasional gleams of sunshine, 
 and rather showery. On this occasion we came early, and pro- 
 vided with some excellent flies made by a local angler, named 
 Williams. In the course of a few hours we killed thirty-five 
 trout, which weighed fifteen pounds ; the average size about the 
 same as on the previous day. We found the best "rise" early in 
 the forenoon ; during the latter part of the day not a fish stirred. 
 We are convinced that in every lake it is useless to expect a good 
 day's sport unless you commence early ; lazy fishermen, who reach 
 their water at noon or later, may as well stay at home. 
 
 The proper flies for the Teifi and the lakes of course depends 
 on the season of the year. We found in May the red spinner
 
 206 TEIPI PISHING MEDWIN'S DESCRIPTION OP THE TEIFI. 
 
 with some gold twist on the body, and a fly made with a wood- 
 cock's feather for the wings, with a yellow body, very killing flies 
 on the lake ; and for Teifi fishing, the sand fly was excellent ; but 
 we strongly recommend the angler to apply to one of the local 
 fishermen, who will afford him every information. 
 
 TEIFI-FISHING. We now return to the Teifi. The weather, 
 during the month of April, 1855, was very unfavourable; cold 
 easterly winds prevailed throughout the month, and as little or 
 no rain fell during that period, the rivers in Wales became 
 exceedingly low and clear, and of course there was very little 
 sport. We found this to be the case on our arrival at Tregaron, 
 early in May. In consequence, little was to be done on the river, 
 which was hardly ever known to be so short of water at that 
 season ; and the cold nights caused the fish to rise so badly, that 
 we could only manage to kill a few brace of small trout even 
 after a long day's ramble. A few days before our departure, 
 however, a favourable change in the weather occurred a 
 southerly wind brought some warm refreshing rain, which caused 
 a slight "fresh" on the river, and the trout began to stir more 
 freely. The best season for stream-fishing had, however, passed 
 away. We only tried the "lanes" on one occasion, and although 
 there was plenty of breeze, it was very cold, and we did not 
 succeed in moving a heavy fish. Captain Medwin's description 
 of the Teifi is so graphic, that before we proceed farther, we are 
 here tempted to make a brief extract from his "Angler in Wales," 
 which will afford the reader a more accurate account of the deep- 
 water fishing in the marshes between Pontrhydvendigaid and 
 Tregaron, and the nature of the difficulties to be encountered, 
 than we are able to give from personal inspection. 
 
 " The Teifi here flows in a stream, blue, rapid, and containing 
 trout of a considerable size ; later in the season, salmon. Owing 
 to the long continuation of the spring drought, it had been little 
 affected so near its source by the heavy rains, and was much 
 dwindled from its accustomed volume of water ; but even within 
 a mile of the village (Pontrhydvendigaid) Charters had taken 
 some good fish. The falls are numerous. The runnels dashed 
 over the broken, rocky beds, and the banks are so free from 
 wood, that a fly may be thrown anywhere without interrup-
 
 THE TEIPI MARSHES A PATRIARCHAL TROUT. 207 
 
 tion. Behold us then following the river down. Had we 
 known the locale, we should have avoided giving the Teifi our 
 company after the first league, and have struck off into the 
 road, for we then came to marsh after marsh, through which 
 crept the sleepy stream, in a still, deep, weedy channel. A 
 more intricate course I never threaded than through the valley 
 for six or seven miles. The river had evidently some months 
 before overstepped its barriers, and covered the whole plain, 
 through which had been cut drains of great depth, which it 
 required the full play of the 'tendon Achilles' to leap. Occa- 
 sionally too we got into a labyrinth of turbaries, when the tremu- 
 lousness of the ground betrayed the quagmire yawning below, 
 and threatening to engulf us at every step. We heartily 
 repented not attending to the guide's advice, during a three hours' 
 march, in which we had no opportunity of making a cast with any 
 chance of success. We, however, at length emerged from the 
 desolate track, and on arriving at a bridge that crossed a by-road, 
 our friend assumed a new face. Charters' sport now began. 
 The morning had been overcast, and the rain began to fall in 
 heavy showers ; but we were too good water-spaniels to heed 
 their pelting. He soon called me to his assistance. 'Whish, 
 whish!' I perceived the fish was one of the patriarchs. The 
 rapid where he had been successfully tempted by the bright 
 blood-red berries* was broken by rocks that gave the water the 
 resemblance of jet or obsidian. Down he went. ' Whish, whish !' 
 responded the multiplier again. Who could have dared to curb 
 or check him ? ' There he is, out of his element once, twice 
 now wheel up ! ' In a few moments he was lying amid the weeds 
 and grass, a worthy study for Murillo. Our trout was a glorious 
 fish, and must have weighed, though I did not measure him, three 
 pounds and a half yes, a glorious fish, I repeat, for this or any 
 other water, and the largest we had taken of his species in 
 Wales." 
 
 From the above description, which we have reason to believe 
 is free from exaggeration, few anglers, we think, will be tempted 
 to encounter the "quagmires" and deep ditches which abound 
 
 
 * Salmon roe.
 
 208 SALMON PASTE DESTRUCTIVE LURE THE COB-FLY. 
 
 in the marshes through which the Teifi flows for several miles. 
 Medwin states that all the fish taken on the occasion referred to, 
 were killed by trolling with salmon-paste, a very destructive lure ; 
 and a skilful manipulator will sometimes capture some very heavy 
 fish. It is, however, after all, a poaching method of sport, and 
 far from a cleanly one. The fact is, that at the season of the 
 year when Captain Medwin fished the Teifi (June or July) fly- 
 fishing was over, except for sewin and salmon. Very few trout of 
 any size are ever taken in Welsh rivers after April and May. In 
 some streams the Usk for instance skerling, a species of 
 samlet, will sometimes rise well in July or August, but you 
 seldom capture any large trout with the fly. The grayling 
 season commences about the middle of August, and is best in 
 October ; but few Welsh rivers contain any, except the Lugg 
 and the Wye. 
 
 We met with very indifferent sport in the Teifi in 1855, 
 although, in consequence of rain, accompanied with warm growing 
 weather, the river was in fair order. This, however, occurred 
 towards the conclusion of our stay at Tregaron. Our best day's 
 sport was during some thunder showers, when we killed about 
 two dozen trout in good season; none exceeded half a pound. 
 The larger fish "rose short," possibly from being glutted with 
 ground-bait. To obtain success on the Teifi, you must go early 
 in March, when the cob-fly is out ; at that time, especially if you 
 happen to know your water, great sport is almost certain, if 
 weather and water are suitable. This river is generally considered 
 one of the very best trout streams in Wales, both for size and 
 quality ; a large well-fed fish in this water is very handsome, and 
 for flavour is far superior to any river fish we ever tasted in 
 Wales. 
 
 This "out of the world" spot is little known, and still less 
 frequented by the stranger, although celebrated in the Ecclesias- 
 tical Annals of the Cwmry. Our first visit to it occurred in July, 
 1843, during a pedestrian excursion from the Devil's Bridge 
 (Pont-y-Monach) to Llandovery. It lies in a pleasant sheltered
 
 EXCURSION FROM THE DEVIL'S BRIDGE TO LLANDOVERY. 209 
 
 situation, about three miles and a half south by west from Tregaron. 
 Its population is small, probably not exceeding two or three 
 hundred inhabitants. A wild dingle, which runs from hence into 
 the hills, is worth exploring ; and the country around, if not strik- 
 ingly beautiful, is at all events pleasing. 
 
 In the year of our Lord 519, St. David, the tutelary saint of 
 Wales, is said to have preached here to a convocation of the clergy, 
 summoned at the call of Dubricius, Archbishop of Caerleon, to 
 devise some means of crushing the Pelagian heresy, at that time 
 making converts in Wales. A very ancient stone pillar in the 
 churchyard, time-worn and dilapidated, locally called " St. David's 
 Staff," is pointed out to the tourist as the spot where the saint 
 delivered his discourse. Whether this pillar was afterwards raised 
 in commemoration of the event, or existed at the period the synod 
 was held, does not appear to be known. 
 
 ffixtuman front i\t gkMI's ribg to 
 
 During the remarkably fine summer of 1843, on our return 
 from an angling tour in North Wales, we were tempted to make 
 an exploring expedition across the almost trackless wild hill 
 country which stretches from Llanddewi Brevi to the sources 
 of the Towy. Our route lay, in the first instance, from the 
 Devil's Bridge, and as we saw much to admire in the course 
 of our walk to Llanddewi Brevi, a brief description of the most 
 interesting objects we met by the way must claim our attention 
 in the next chapter.
 
 210 THE PARSON'S BRIDGE ROMANTIC SCENERY.' 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 HAFOD YSTRAD TLUR ITS HISTOKY PRESENT STATE ACROSS 
 THE GREAT DESERT OV WALES BLAEN-TWRCH-UCHAF THE 
 GORGES ENCOUNTER WITH REBECCA. 
 
 " Here balmy air, and springs as ether clear, 
 Fresh downs, and limpid rills, and daisied meads, 
 Delight the eye, reanimate the heart, 
 And on the florid cheek emboss the rose 
 'Mid sweetest dimples and unfeigned smiles." 
 
 WHO has not heard of the far-famed Pont-y-Mouach, its magni- 
 ficent waterfalls, its curious double bridge, spanning a yawning 
 chasm of profound depth, and the absurd legend attached to its 
 origin ? Its scenic attractions, however, have long been a " stock" 
 subject in guide books and "tours," so that we can afford to 
 spare the reader a recapitulation of what is already so well known 
 and so deservedly admired. Hafod, too, in the immediate vicinity, 
 another of the "lions," is also too threadbare a subject for us to 
 meddle with. Animated descriptions of it are to be found in 
 several topographical works, and to these we refer the reader. 
 Nor must we forget Pont Bren, the "Parson's Bridge," one of 
 the most secluded and picturesque scenes on a river, whose course 
 is marked by features of grandeur and romantic loveliness, 
 scarcely to be exceeded by any other stream in Cambria.* Our 
 object is rather to describe scenes more out of the beaten track, and 
 less accessible to the generality of sightseers ; and which, though 
 some of them may be well known to the few, are a terra incognita 
 to the many. We shall therefore commence our excursion from 
 Pont Ystwith, which lies just beyond the Hafod woods, and 
 
 * The Rheidol..
 
 PONTRHYDVENDIGAID STRATA FLORIDA. 211 
 
 crosses the river Ystwith once famed for the excellence and 
 abundance of its trout. 
 
 It was on a fine warm misty morning in July, that we left the 
 Devil's Bridge. The beauties of Hafod were veiled by a heavy 
 curtain of vapour which hung over hill and vale, and the attrac- 
 tive and richly varied scenery surrounding this sylvan paradise, 
 was buried in profound obscurity. Hafod, formerly a barren 
 wilderness, has been converted into one of the most delightful 
 retreats in Wales by judicious landscape gardening on a grand 
 scale, executed with consummate taste ; materially assisted, how- 
 ever, by the natural accessories of the valley in which it is 
 situate. After emerging from these leafy bowers, the contrast 
 afforded by the naked aspect of the country before us was striking 
 enough. The road we now struck into led to Pontrhydvendigaid, 
 and the aspect of the scenery was barren and desolate. A few 
 miles before we reached that village, the sun began to dispel the 
 heavy vapours which had obscured the landscape in the early 
 morning, and a sudden burst of his gladsome beams, as we reached 
 the summit of a hill, revealed to us the ancient hamlet reposing 
 in the "blooming vale" below. Pontrhydvendigaid is a poor 
 primitive-looking place; even its inn since the period of our 
 visit said to be improved had a very uninviting appearance; 
 nevertheless, we were glad to avail ourselves of its shelter, and to 
 partake of such homely fare as the larder afforded, before pro- 
 ceeding on our pilgrimage to the ruins of the once celebrated 
 
 0f Strata JXoriba. 
 
 " The wall flower shed its perfume, as it clung 
 And waved in wild luxuriance o'er the stone 
 Chafed by the storms of years ; . . . . 
 Around me all was calm and still ; the wind, 
 Even that ' charter' d hrawler,' seemed to feel 
 A strange unwonted awe, and strove to steal 
 With gentler voice amid the hills that shrined 
 A scene so tranquil." 
 
 Wales is not remarkable for its existing monastic remains, nor, 
 strictly speaking, were conventual establishments at any period
 
 212 MONASTIC COMMUNITIES IN WALES. 
 
 of its history exceedingly numerous. Among the most important 
 were Ystrad Flur, Conwy, Tinterne, and Valle Crucis. We 
 include Tinterne, because, until the reign of Henry VIII. that 
 once magnificent Abbey belonged to Wales. After its dissolution, 
 Monmouthshire, in which it lies, became an English county. Of 
 these institutions, Ystrad Flur and Conwy were considered the 
 most important. These monasteries divided between them the 
 honour of carrying on the Historical Records of the Cwmry, 
 and here these records were preserved until after the inglorious 
 death of the last and greatest of the native Welsh princes, 
 in 1282. 
 
 With the exception of the abbeys of Valle Crucis and Cwmmer, 
 the ruins of such others as still exist are mere fragments. Time, 
 the fury of the elements, and the ruthless hand of man, have 
 done their work ; and no edifice dedicated to the worship of the 
 Most High has been more utterly spoliated than the once stately 
 abbey of Strata Florida. 
 
 It is not our intention to enter into a minute account of the 
 past history and fortunes of this famous monastery, but briefly 
 detail a few of the leading events during the time it flourished, 
 and more particularly the existing state of its ruins. 
 
 "The rich monastery of Stratflur" called by the Welsh 
 Monachlog Vawr, the "Great Abbey" was, when in the zenith 
 of its splendour and renown, the largest and most powerful con- 
 ventual community in Wales. It experienced sundry vicissitudes, 
 the common fate of all the Welsh ecclesiastical establishments, 
 which, situate as it were in the midst of such a wild turbulent 
 race as the ancient Cwmry, were ever liable to pillage and insult. 
 This abbey was for several centuries the chief depository of the 
 ancient historical records of Wales, the genealogies of its princes 
 and nobles, and the works of its bards ; its library was extensive 
 and valuable, and its revenues immense. It is most generally 
 believed that this community of monks belonged to the Cistercian 
 order ; although there is a difference of opinion amongst some of 
 the best authorities on this subject. Sir Richard Colt Hoare 
 inclines to the opinion that the monks were of the "severe and 
 recluse order of the Cistercians ;" this is also confirmed by Leland, 
 who flourished at the period of the Dissolution. Camden, how-
 
 YSTRAD FLUB DAVYDD AP GWILYM. 213 
 
 ever, says that it was an establishment of Cluniacs, founded by 
 Rhys ap Tewdwr in the reign of the Conqueror. We incline to the 
 former opinion, as the secluded situation of Ystrad Flur is more 
 in accordance with the austere discipline of the Cistercian " reli- 
 gious." It seems strange indeed, that any uncertainty at all 
 should exist on this point : the historical documents belonging to 
 the monastery ought to have set the question at rest long ago. 
 The original site is supposed by some to have been removed after 
 its destruction by fire, in 1295, temp. Edward I.; according to 
 tradition, this arbitrary monarch, upon the occasion of some 
 trifling dispute with the abbot, was the author of the calamity, 
 during the unhappy period which followed the wars and death of 
 Llewelyn, in 1282. At the distance of about two miles off to the 
 south-west, near the left side of the road leading to Tregaron, 
 the foundations of a church may be seen, which is supposed to 
 have belonged to the more ancient abbey. These remains are 
 called Hen Monachlog, which signifies, the " Old Abbey." From 
 the name, there appears at first sight to be some truth in the con- 
 jecture ; but recent modern researches have incontestably proved 
 that the existing ruins are on the original foundation. 
 
 The ancient cemetery is supposed to have formerly been of 
 considerable extent, covering at least 120 acres; but the modern 
 enclosure scarcely exceeds two. In this extensive necropolis, the 
 ashes of the illustrious dead, princes, bards, and other eminent 
 persons, repose ; and leaden coffins are still occasionally discovered 
 in the vicinity. The grave of Davydd ap Gwilym, one of the most 
 eminent of the Welsh Bards, tradition asserts, is under one of the 
 aged yew trees in the existing churchyard ; the only living memo- 
 rials left to lament, as it were, over the vain and transitory nature 
 of all human works.* An epitaph on the Bard, in Welsh, pro- 
 bably by some monkish writer, has been rendered with much 
 spirit into English by the learned author of the " Ecclesiastical 
 Antiquities of the Cwmry," the Rev. John Williams, late of 
 Llan-y-Mowddy, near Mallwyd. 
 
 * Malkin considers the poetry of David ap Gwilym, " the purest standard 
 of the Welsh language, and from his poems the modern literary dialect has 
 chiefly been formed."
 
 214 ABBEY OP STRATA FLORIDA ITS PAST HISTORY. 
 
 " Worthy David, mighty Bard, 
 Art thou laid here under the green wood ? 
 Beneath a flourishing tree, even a beautiful yew, 
 Where he was buried, the song lies concealed. 
 
 " Beneath a bushy green yew, the fair nightingale of Teifi, 
 David, is interred : 
 The vigorous strain is in the dust. 
 We have now no genius by day or by night." 
 
 From the tenor of these Ossianic lines, it may be inferred that 
 the bones of the "fair nightingale of Teifi" actually repose under 
 one of these ancient yews ; which, according to Leland, were in 
 his time thirty-nine in number. 
 
 After the period of its restoration, the "Abbey of the blooming 
 plain" nourished in extraordinary splendour for 200 years. It 
 was famed for its hospitality, its learning, the beauty and magni- 
 ficence of its church, its wealth and extensive possessions. More 
 than three centuries have since then rolled away, and where is 
 this magnificent edifice? Its "storied windows," with their 
 delicate and elaborate traceries, its fretted roof, its paintings, its 
 carvings " in ebon and ivory," its richly-clustered stone pillars, its 
 stately arches, all have crumbled into dust ; even the very tombs 
 of its founders, princes, warriors, and minstrels, whose ashes lie 
 scattered around, have vanished away 
 
 "Like the baseless fabric of a vision," 
 
 and become merely shadows of the Past. 
 
 At the Reformation, the once numerous community of monks 
 had dwindled away to six or seven : these were soon afterwards 
 driven from their sanctuary by the imperious mandate of the 
 "Saxon" king; and the church and conventual buildings were 
 afterwards gradually despoiled, and fell into utter ruin and decay. 
 Even in Leland's time, " the fratry and infirmatori be now mere 
 
 ruines." 
 
 " Oh Time ! the beautifier of the dead, 
 Adorner of the ruin." 
 
 BYRON. 
 
 We must conclude this brief and imperfect sketch of Strata 
 Florida, as it was in its palmy days, with a few remarks descriptive
 
 YSTRAD FLUR EXISTING RUINS REFLECTIONS. 215 
 
 of its existing remains. The abbey, however, has been so "utterly 
 devoured," that little appears above ground to attract the atten- 
 tion of the antiquary. Since the period of our visit, in 1843, 
 some excavations have been made on a portion of the site of the 
 conventual church, which have satisfactorily established nearly its 
 exact dimensions ; and the ruins were afterwards thoroughly ex- 
 plored by the members of the Cambrian Archaeological Society, in 
 1847, at whose expense this interesting discovery was made. 
 
 The scenery surrounding the "blooming plain," with its en- 
 circling " belt of mountains," is in strict keeping with the forlorn 
 and melancholy aspect of the ruins. A few weather-beaten trees, 
 affording shelter to an ancient farm-house the yews, which cast 
 an air of sadness over the churchyard a neglected garden, rank 
 with weeds and desolation are the chief accompaniments which 
 greet the eye of the visitor. The ruins consist of a Norman 
 gateway of considerable beauty, adjoining the east side of the 
 cemetery. A double crozier-head is placed over the centre of the 
 arch, and several recessed flutings add much to its general effect. 
 In a wall adjoining the gateway there is a solitary pointed window, 
 partially covered with a graceful drapery of ivy. The wallflower 
 also adorns the ruined window with its beautiful fragrant flowers. 
 These fragments constitute all, or nearly all, that remains of the 
 " Opimum de Stratflur Monasterium" the "rich monastery of 
 Stratflur." Omnia vincit Tempus. 
 
 A small, and somewhat mean-looking church, which a modern 
 writer has termed "a neat building" doubtless erected with 
 some of the materials of its mighty predecessor stands in the 
 modern burial-ground, and in immediate contiguity to the ruins. 
 The murmuring waters of the Teifi flow at less than a quarter of a 
 mile to the north of the church. About half-way from hence to 
 Pontrhydvendigaid, the river is joined by a considerable tributary, 
 which rises at the head of a wild secluded dingle to the south- 
 east, called Nant Glassffrwd, not far from Llyn Crugnant. 
 
 A feeling of regret steals over us whenever we behold the 
 dilapidated abodes of learning and piety, the perishing memorials 
 of a departed age. The broken arch, the crumbling pillar, the 
 tottering tower, are types of the transitory and fleeting nature of 
 all human works, and forcibly remind us of the words of the
 
 216 SCENERY BETWEEN PONTHRYDVENDIGAID AND TREGARON. 
 
 Preacher, who says, " all the works that are done under the sun " 
 are but vanity and "vexation of spirit." With such or similar 
 thoughts, we bade farewell to the ruined Abbey of Strata Florida. 
 
 " How many hearts have here grown cold, 
 That sleep these mouldering stones among ! 
 How many heads have here heen told ! 
 How many matins here been sung ! 
 
 " But here no more soft music floats, 
 No holy anthems chanted now ; 
 All hush'd except the ring-dove's notes, 
 Low murm'ring from yon heechen hough." 
 
 We now slowly retraced our steps to the " Blessed Ford," the 
 road to which, after about half a mile, runs parallel to the 
 meandering Teifi, which here flows in a rapid stream through the 
 " blooming plain," from a wild ravine in the desolate hills above. 
 The banks of the river were well clothed with wood in olden 
 time, and were not destroyed until the reign of Edward I. 
 Leland, in his " Itinerary," expressly alludes to it in his descrip- 
 tion of Ystrad Flur, in the sixteenth century. He says : " Many 
 hills thereabout hath been well wodded, but now in them is 
 almost no woode. Men for the nonys destroied the great woddis 
 that they should not harborow thieves." The real object of the 
 English monarch, in causing the woods and thickets to be 
 destroyed, was to prevent them from sheltering the armed men 
 of the country, who were at that time in resistance to his autho- 
 rity. Early in the afternoon we left Pontrhydvendigaid, and 
 resumed our excursion towards Tregaron, which lies about six 
 miles off, south by west. The road passes through a wild dreary 
 country, extremely uninteresting for several miles. The Teifi 
 flows, at the distance of one mile from the road, through a flat 
 marshy plain, one of the most barren, desolate looking tracts we 
 had ever seen in Wales. We passed Maes Llyn on our right, a 
 small pool preserved by Lord Lisburne : it is said to contain 
 some very large trout. Before reaching it, a plantation bordering 
 the road to our left, in some measure relieved the monotonous 
 character of the scenery, and afforded protection from the fervid 
 rays of the sun, jwhich glared upon us with almost tropical
 
 THE WILDS OP CARDIGANSHIRE. 217 
 
 brilliancy. After a short halt at Tregaron, which we have de- 
 scribed in the previous chapter, we pursued our route to Llanddewi 
 Brevi, where we arrived about five o'clock in the evening. We 
 had now reached the confines of civilization, and were about to 
 plunge into the wilds Cambria Deserta, as it might properly be 
 styled. 
 
 Here we abandoned the turnpike road, and struck across the 
 hills towards Ystrad Ffyn, and the sources of the Towy. On 
 leaving the village, we ascended a precipitous path to some bare 
 elevated table-land, which is literally, not only almost pathless, 
 but, as we were informed, utterly destitute of the semblance of a 
 human habitation for miles. We therefore deemed it prudent to 
 secure the services of a guide, to accompany us across the wildest 
 part of the route. The guide proved to be the village tailor ; and 
 he engaged to lead us as far as the confines of the "gorges," 
 where the tributary streams running into the Towy derive their 
 source. 
 
 Fancy yourself alone on this trackless waste on a winter's 
 evening, the snow falling thickly upon you, and darkness coming 
 on : how cheering on such a perilous occasion would the distant 
 baying of a shepherd's dog fall on the ear of the wayfarer ! 
 A friend of ours was once actually in a similar predicament to 
 the one we have sketched. He had occasion to walk across these 
 wastes on a cold winter's day, from Llandovery to Ystrad Meiric, 
 and narrowly escaped being lost, owing to a violent snow-storm 
 having suddenly arisen whilst on the wildest part of the route. 
 We, however, had no " moving accidents " of this kind to fear. 
 The evenipg was lovely in the extreme, and at that delightful 
 period of the year when Nature in some degree smiles upon you, 
 even in a desolate wilderness, and which, on the uplands of 
 Wales, adds such an additional charm to the pleasures of a moun- 
 tain excursion. 
 
 Cardiganshire is the "lake country of South Wales;" and 
 nowhere in the Principality is better sport to be met with than 
 in the lakes and rivers which lie amongst the sequestered cwms 
 and hills of this portion of the county. After we had proceeded 
 for several miles, we became aware that the path, or sheep-track, 
 for it was little else, had become gradually more and more indis-
 
 218 THE GEBAT DESERT OP WALES WELSH SHEEP. 
 
 tinct, until at last not a vestige of a path was to be seen. We 
 therefore had to rely wholly on the knowledge of our guide, who 
 appeared to thread his way across the country without the least 
 hesitation or difficulty. The locality we were now traversing is 
 one of the most untamed and desolate in either Division of the 
 Principality; it has indeed with perfect truth been called the 
 "great desert of Wales." Vast sweeping ranges of hills with 
 rounded tops, add to the dreary aspect of this nearly unpeopled 
 region ; and the cottages or " shielings " you very rarely fall in 
 with, are wretched and primitive in the extreme, scarcely 
 affording shelter to the rude but hardy peasantry from the 
 inclemency of the weather. If human habitations are scarce, 
 churches are few and far between, the parishes being of con- 
 siderable extent ; and it is, we believe, a fact that in some parts 
 the inhabitants have to travel from eight to ten miles to church 
 or chapel. 
 
 The portentous stillness that prevailed around was unbroken 
 by the slightest sound ; not a living creature was visible, except 
 a few scared sheep, which, unused to the sight of the stranger, 
 scampered off, uttering that peculiar shrill bleat or whistle which 
 Welsh sheep always emit when suddenly disturbed. It is the 
 signal of danger amongst them; and it is amusing to observe 
 when the note is sounded by some patriarch of the flock, how 
 they start, and dart away at the top of their speed. Our guide, 
 after proceeding apparently almost at random for several miles, 
 brought us at last to the edge of a hill, at the foot of which we 
 observed a thin blue column of peat smoke proceeding from the 
 rude chimney of a solitary farmhouse ; and we at once joyfully 
 hastened to make acquaintance with its interior, for by this time 
 the heat and fatigue we had endured during the day rendered it 
 necessary to obtain, if possible, some refreshment. The exterior 
 of the dwelling was miserable and primitive enough, but quite in 
 keeping with the desolate appearance of the surrounding scenery. 
 Amidst the barking and yelping of curs, that evinced a great 
 desire to be more familiar than agreeable, we entered a dark 
 smoky apartment with a great turf fire blazing on the rude 
 hearth, over which a huge iron cauldron was suspended, the 
 contents of which were to form the evening supper for the
 
 PORTRAIT OP A WELSH FARMER REBECCA. 219 
 
 family. It consisted of what appeared to be a mess of flour and 
 milk, resembling what is called " furmenty." The farmer rose at 
 our appearance, and, in the language of the country, bade us 
 welcome. He was a tall, hard-featured man, with the true Celtic 
 cast of countenance, clad in a threadbare, blue, homespun coat, 
 corduroy continuations, and dark blue woollen hose the usual 
 costume of the Welsh peasantry. Our stock of Welsh being 
 limited, we were obliged to have recourse to the " Saxon " dialect, 
 which we found our host understood sufficiently well to compre- 
 hend our wants. Bara a caws, bread and cheese, ymenyn, butter 
 of excellent quality, and some home-brewed cwrw, were speedily 
 produced ; and the appetizing effect of a long walk through the 
 "incense-breathing" air of the mountains added not a little to 
 the zest of the repast. Our wants being satisfied, we produced a 
 case of cigars, and handing one to the farmer, we were highly 
 amused at his awkward attempts to smoke it; after which we 
 asked him the news of the country. ' ' Deed to goodness," said 
 he, "these be strange times; yes, indeed, we have lately had 
 several 'Rebecca' riots; and it was only this morning that a 
 large party of 'Rebecca's' men had been chased from the 
 vicinity of Llandovery by a troop of dragoons hastily sent for 
 from Brecon. The soldiers did not arrive, however, until one of 
 the toll-gates had been destroyed." We had before heard of the 
 exploits of " Rebecca " and her followers ; but we were not 
 aware at the time that the insurrection had extended so far to 
 the eastward. This news, therefore, rather damped our ardour, 
 as a rencontre with a band of these lawless desperadoes would be 
 far from agreeable ; and there was every reason to believe, from 
 the farmer's account, that several of these bands were outlying in 
 this neighbourhood. When, therefore, we expressed our intention 
 of proceeding to Llandovery that evening, our host earnestly 
 endeavoured to dissuade us, as several travellers, he said, had 
 recently been attacked, robbed, and in some cases ill-treated. 
 However, we determined to proceed at "all hazards ; and trusted 
 to get to our quarters at the " Castle Hotel " without molesta- 
 tion. It was also probable that the reports which had reached 
 the farmer's ears might have been much exaggerated. 
 
 Before we proceed with our narrative, perhaps it may not be
 
 220 . 
 
 considered out of place if we give a brief account of " Rebecca " 
 and her proceedings. 
 
 THE REBECCA INSURRECTION as it was" called originated in 
 Caermarthenshire, in 1843, and was at its height in 1844. The 
 rebellion afterwards extended into the neighbouring counties of 
 Pembroke, Cardigan, and Glamorgan ; and at one time assumed 
 a rather formidable aspect. At the commencement of these law- 
 less proceedings, the rioters confined themselves to the destruc- 
 tion of toll-gates, but encouraged by the success and impunity 
 which attended their nightly forays, they commenced a series of 
 still graver outrages, including even murder, highway robberies, 
 attacks on private dwellings, incendiarism, and organised attempts 
 on union workhouses. In spite of soldiers, and rewards offered 
 by the authorities for the apprehension of the ringleaders, 
 " Rebecca " continued for many months her lawless career un- 
 checked ; the whole rural population of the disturbed districts 
 appeared to be either sworn to secrecy, or connived at the acts of 
 the rioters. Who "Rebecca," the leader, was, has never yet 
 been satisfactorily explained. He has been described as a tall 
 personage, dressed in woman's clothes, generally on horseback, 
 and ever foremost in the fray. It is probable, that latterly there 
 were many leaders, as the conspiracy at length became too ex- 
 tensive to be under the guidance of one chief. St. Clears, near 
 Caermarthen, was at one time what may be termed their head- 
 quarters ; and almost nightly they assembled to the number of 600 
 and upwards, nearly all mounted on horseback, and proceeded on 
 their crusade against the toll houses, most of which were in a 
 very short period completely demolished. It was not until one 
 of the Divisions of the Metropolitan police arrived at the scene of 
 war, to assist the troops, that headway was made against the 
 rioters. Several important prisoners were captured, and some of 
 them transported ; and from their confessions, many farmers and 
 others, moving in a respectable condition of life, were implicated. 
 There is little doubt that the origin of the insurrection may be 
 traced to a movement amongst the small tenant farmers and 
 others, who felt aggrieved by the excessive tollage levied for the 
 repair of the roads, and which pressed with extreme severity 
 upon the occupiers of small holdings.
 
 BLAEN-TWRCH-UCHAF ITS DESOLATE SITUATION. 221 
 
 Such are the leading features of the celebrated " Rebecca Re- 
 bellion," which has been justly termed one of the most "romantic 
 incidents in modern history." In some of its phases, it was 
 closely allied to the secret and lawless proceedings of " Captain 
 Rock," and the Ribbon Conspiracy, in Ireland, although not 
 attended with such numerous instances of atrocity. 
 
 We must now resume the narrative of our subsequent adven- 
 tures. After partaking of a parting glass with our host, and dis- 
 pensing with the further services of the guide, we prepare to 
 resume our journey. The evening was exceedingly fine and serene, 
 although from the heat of the day, 
 
 " The far-folded mist " 
 
 began to envelope the mountain-tops, and as it might possibly 
 descend and spread over the lowlands, we deemed it a matter of 
 precaution to obtain the services of one of the farmer's sons to 
 guide us to the head of the dingle, which we understood led 
 down to the river Towy : once there, there would be no further 
 difficulty in finding our way, as the path runs through the gorge 
 until it reaches the Llandovery road. 
 
 After heartily shaking hands with the farmer, and wishing him 
 " Nos da i chwi" Anglice, "good night to you," with many thanks 
 for his kindness and hospitality, as we were passing out of the 
 house, one of the sons came to us and made a demand of " one 
 shilling and a half," in Welsh, "un swllt a chwe cheinioc/" in 
 payment of the bill. The charge was moderate enough, but we 
 felt hurt and surprised at the demand, so contrary to the time- 
 honoured observance of Cambrian hospitality; however, we 
 pocketed the affront without any observation. The name of this 
 solitary habitation is Blaen-Twrch-Uchaf ; it stands in one of the 
 most naked, desolate situations we had ever seen. With the 
 assistance of the farmer's son, we now made tolerable progress 
 across a wild bog, which in winter must be almost impassable. 
 It was nearly eight p. M., and the twilight was rapidly approach- 
 ing. Our companion, a raw, ignorant lad, was shy and taciturn, 
 partly arising, perhaps, from his entire ignorance of English, and 
 all attempts to draw him into conversation were of course use-
 
 222 A NIGHT IN THE WILDS. 
 
 less. Before our departure, we had foolishly paid his father in 
 advance for his services, and the young rascal, aware of this, after 
 proceeding for about two miles, suddenly left us in the lurch, 
 pointing in " dumb show " with his hand something after the 
 fashion of the countryman and the fox the direction we were to 
 take. Although we shouted and hallooed to urge him to return, 
 he was deaf to entreaty, and bounded away with the speed of a 
 roebuck. We were now left in a pretty " fix ; " the more so, as 
 the fog was rapidly increasing in density, and began to enfold us 
 in its chilly embrace. There was now no time to be lost, every 
 minute was of consequence, as the increasing gloom would soon 
 prevent any trace of the route from being seen. The moon, we 
 knew, would rise in an hour or two, and, at the worst, we must 
 endure for a time exposure to the raw chilly fog, which increased 
 in density every moment. Thanks, however, to the invigorating 
 effects of the ctcrw, we felt tolerably fresh, and pushed on at our 
 best pace. After walking for nearly an hour, we at length per- 
 ceived, to our great delight, the opening of what appeared a 
 woody dingle or gorge, this we were certain must be the one we 
 were in search of. Previously, we had certainly felt rather 
 nervous at the prospect of a night's lodging on the wild hilly 
 waste a not very enviable position to be placed in. We now 
 hastened on, and soon came to the head of the gorge, and got 
 into a precipitous path leading down it, well clothed with coppice- 
 wood. Presently we heard the rippling of water, at the bottom 
 of the dingle, and we knew we were safe : soon afterwards, the 
 distant barking of a dog assured us we were again in the vicinity 
 of a human dwelling. How cheering is such a sound to the 
 solitary wayfarer ! It absolutely revels in his ears like distant 
 music, and dispels in a moment the gloom and depression which 
 had previously come over him. As near as we could guess, we 
 had still six or seven miles to walk before we could reach our 
 destination. The stream we were following, we had reason to 
 believe, was the Dothie, one of the tributaries to the Towy. To 
 the left of us lay Capel Ystrad Ffyn, and we were in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of " Twin Sion Gattis Cave." The wild country we 
 had left behind is called the " Forest of Esgob," and on referring 
 to a map, it will be seen there is not the name of a place laid down
 
 LAND OF THE GORGES EXQUISITE SCENERY. 223 
 
 for eight or nine miles. This region, from its name, was pro- 
 bably covered with wood in ancient times. 
 
 Soon after we resumed our march, we got clear of the mist ; 
 the moon had risen, and by the light of her silvery rays we were 
 now enabled to follow the path with ease and safety. We were 
 much impressed with the magnificent scene before us, and the 
 fragrant odour of the honeysuckle and sweetbriar, covered with 
 bright dewdrops, sweetly perfumed the air, as we leisurely sur- 
 veyed the exquisitely beautiful glen through which we were 
 silently wandering. Well may the "land of the gorges" be 
 called one of the gems of Wales. At length we got into a road, 
 and commenced anew to accelerate our progress. We had pro- 
 ceeded for about two miles, when we suddenly heard what seemed 
 to be the sound of human voices ; but a sharp turn in the road 
 prevented us from seeing very far ahead. " Rebecca " now sud- 
 denly flashed across our mind, and for an instant we were unde- 
 cided whether to advance or retreat. With as much self-possession 
 as we could muster, we paused for a short time to deliberate as 
 to the best course to adopt. We were unarmed, but to retreat at 
 that hour of the night appeared simply impossible. Should the 
 sounds proceed from an outlying band of Rebeccaites, it was 
 highly probable we should be stopped ; as it was reported they 
 had on several occasions lately, levied "blackmail" on such 
 unlucky individuals as had fallen in their way. They had also 
 recently, we had reason to believe, had a skirmish with the 
 soldiery, and it was likely that their "Welsh blood was up." 
 Such and similar ideas flashed across us, and we now fervently 
 wished we had taken the farmer's advice and remained at Blaen- 
 Twrch-Uchaf for the night. We blamed ourselves for under- 
 taking such a rash freak as to walk at night unarmed and alone, 
 whilst the country was in such a disturbed state. However, it 
 was now too late to repent or indulge in vain regrets, and we at 
 length determined to brave the encounter, if to such it came, in 
 the best way we could. Our plan was to walk quietly on until 
 we could, unobserved, reconnoitre the enemy, and then to rush 
 past them at the top of our speed. We had now nearly reached 
 the turn of the road, and halted for a moment to listen again for 
 the sounds that had so lately arrested our attention. We could
 
 224 ENCOUNTER REBECCA ESCAPE. 
 
 hear nothing, however; all appeared as still as death, save the 
 gentle murmuring of the neighbouring river. As soon as we 
 had cautiously reached the turn, a scene presented itself which 
 required all the nerve we could muster, and for a moment had 
 nearly upset our self-possession. We found ourselves in the 
 immediate presence of the dreaded "Rebecca." Within less 
 than twenty paces, at least twenty tall dark-looking figures lay 
 basking in the moonlight on the road-side, prepared, as we sup- 
 posed, to dispute the road with every passer-by. We had come 
 upon these men so silently, that we must have taken them by 
 surprise as we rushed past with headlong speed. We were 
 tolerably agile then, and being in good training, we managed to 
 get over the ground with marvellous celerity. At first we fancied 
 we heard the sounds of pursuit, but we soon discovered that it 
 proceeded from an over-excited imagination ; and by the time we 
 had reached the bridge leading over the river, we discovered no 
 signs of "Rebecca." Here, as well as we can remember, the 
 mountain road joins the regular turnpike road to Llandovery. To 
 our great relief, we soon afterwards heard the sound of horses' 
 feet rapidly approaching, and presently an orderly and two other 
 mounted dragoons came up. They halted as soon as they per- 
 ceived us, and we then gave them information of what we had 
 seen. We found, from their account, that it was quite true there 
 had been a toll-gate riot on the previous day, and several parties 
 of Rebeccaites were supposed to be still lurking in the neigh- 
 bourhood. These men were out on patrol. Having thanked us 
 for the information we had given, they trotted off towards the 
 scene of our encounter. What were their subsequent adventures 
 we never heard. The sequel is soon told. We arrived safely at 
 our quarters about half-past twelve A.M., mentally resolving hence- 
 forth to avoid the perils of a lonely walk at night amongst Welsh 
 wilds, and more particularly, to be careful in avoiding for the 
 future another interview with " Rebecca."
 
 THE LAKES OF CARDIGANSHIRE. 225 
 
 CHAPTER XVHL 
 
 THE LAKES OP CARDIGANSHIRE THE TEIFI POOLS LELAND'S 
 DESCRIPTION SPOUT ON THE LAKES LLYN HIR LLYN 
 EGNANT LLYN GORLAN LLYN GYNON LLYN GORAST 
 LLYNNIATJ FYBDDTN VAWH AND VACH LLYN CRUGNANT 
 LLYN DTJ LEGENDS. 
 
 " Here the bleak mount, 
 
 The bare bleak mountain speckled thin with sheep ; 
 Grey clouds, that shadowing spot the sunny fields ; 
 And river, now with bushy rocks o'er-browed, 
 Now winding bright and full, with naked banks ; 
 * * the abbey and the wood, 
 
 And cots and hamlets : God, methought, 
 Had built Him here a temple !" COLERIDGE. 
 
 THE lakes of South Wales are chiefly to be found amongst the 
 desolate mountain wastes of Cardiganshire, and present as wild 
 an aspect, although destitute of scenic grandeur, as some of 
 the llyns of North Wales. The county of Cardigan does not 
 contain any pools of considerable extent; the largest is Llyn 
 Gynon, which is an extensive sheet of water. The exact number 
 of lakes in the county we cannot particularize with any degree of 
 certainty ; but probably they do not exceed five-and-twenty, or at 
 most, thirty. Of these, the celebrated Teifi group, called "the 
 Teifi Pools," including Llyn Gynon, claim the pre-eminence, some 
 of them being the largest in the county. 
 
 We have never visited these pools, and must therefore be con- 
 tent to borrow such information as we can collect from oral and 
 other sources ; but as it has occurred to us that our rambles in 
 Cardiganshire might appear incomplete without some account of 
 these lakes, we have in this instance departed from a rule we
 
 226 THE TEIFI POOLS NAMES OF THE LAKES. 
 
 have invariably observed never to describe any portion of the 
 Principality that we have not seen and minutely examined. 
 
 On the " lofty mountains of Moruge, which in Welsh are called 
 Ellennith," or more correctly, Maelienydd, says Giraldus, are a 
 group of five lakes, the largest of which are Llyns Egnant and 
 TeifL* According to popular belief these pools are unfathomable ; 
 at any rate, they are of great depth. Roscoe states that Llyn 
 Teifi is supposed by some authors to rest on the bed of an extinct 
 volcano, "but the stones around bear no marks of volcanic 
 action." These five pools are in such immediate contiguity, that 
 from the summit of a hill above Llyn Teifi you can command a view 
 of all the others. Llyn Gynon, another pool, and the largest on 
 these hills, lies rather more than a mile from the southern extre- 
 mity of Llyn Egnant. Llyn Teifi is the nearest to Pontrhydven- 
 digaid, and is distant from thence about four miles and a half; 
 Llyn Egnant is nearly six miles. 
 
 Leland, in his description of the possessions of the abbey of 
 Strata Florida, which at one period were of immense extent, 
 expressly alludes to the Teifi lakes. He saw them from the moun- 
 tains above " Strateflere," at a place he calls the " Cragnaulin 
 Stone." He says, "These iiii Pooles be in the Lordship of Pennarth, 
 the chefe towne of this Lordship being in Cardiganshire is Tre- 
 garon. But the Abbate of Strateflere hath much landes in the 
 same Lordship, and thes iiii Pooles long to the Abbate of Strate- 
 flere." One of the lakes he calls Llinynigin Velin, the " lake of 
 the yellow quaking bog," which we suppose means Llyn Teifi. 
 " There is in it veri good troutes and elys, and no other fishch." 
 
 The names of the Teifi group, properly speaking, are Llyn 
 Teifi, Llyn Hir, " the long pool," Llyn Egnant, and two smaller 
 lakes, Llyn Gorlan and Llyn Gron : the latter is said to be desti- 
 tute of fish. These llyns are partly crown property; Colonel 
 Powell, of Nanteos, and Lord Lisburne, of Crosswood, are the 
 other proprietors. The right of fishing is exercised by the latter, 
 * Moruge is a corruption from moors.
 
 LLYN TEIPI LLYN HIR UNCERTAIN SPORT. 227 
 
 but we believe the lakes are not strictly preserved ; and gentlemen 
 staying at the inn at Pontrhydvendigaid may angle there without 
 the necessity of applying for permission. There is, we understand, 
 a boat, or boats, on Llyn Teifi, belonging to Lord Lisburne, but 
 they are not available to anglers. 
 
 From their bleak, exposed situation, these pools are subject 
 to violent gusts of wind, which at times lash their waters with 
 considerable fury. The Teifi lakes are situate on some of the 
 most elevated ground in the county ; and the country on every 
 side, for a considerable distance, is desolate in the extreme. The 
 lofty summits of Cader Idris and Plinlumon may be seen to the 
 north, and there is a fine view of the sea-coast stretching away 
 to the west and south, with Cardigan and its bay looming in the 
 distance. Altogether, the panoramic view from these naked, lofty 
 uplands is grand and imposing. 
 
 The sport on these lakes is very uncertain ; sometimes you may 
 visit the whole of them in succession without moving a fish. 
 They are not early lakes; the best month to fish them is, we 
 believe, July. Llyn Teifi is said to contain the largest trout ; but 
 unless the weather is lowering, accompanied with a very strong 
 breeze, little is to be done. The trout are described to be " some- 
 times free ;" but several friends of ours who have visited this lake 
 have found it otherwise. Captain Medwin says, that with the excep- 
 tion of killing two small fish in Llyn Egnant, he could not obtain 
 even "a rise" on any of these pools. Possibly the weather was 
 unpropitious, although he had plenty of breeze. Such anglers as 
 can safely manage a coracle would find it of great advantage in 
 fishing these lakes, as the larger trout generally lie away from the 
 shore. The fish in the Teifi pools, from the dark, peaty water 
 they inhabit, are of a disagreeable colour, and, early in the season, 
 are generally thin, lanky, and in very poor condition ; not to be 
 compared to their congeners in many of the Caernarvonshire and 
 Merionethshire hikes. Possibly a lack of food is the cause of 
 this, as is the case in other mountain lakes where the bottom is 
 stony and free from grass or weeds. Some of these lakes are, 
 however, full of weeds. The insect tribe are also later in making 
 their appearance on water lying on cold, high, exposed situations. 
 
 LLYN HIR, which lies nearly two furlongs to the north-east 9f 
 Q2
 
 228 LLYN EGNANT LLYN GORLAN LLYN GYNON. 
 
 Llyn Teifi from which it is divided by a narrow ridge is a long 
 narrow pool, as its name implies, and is nearly half a mile in 
 length, in a direction north and south. It is hardly a furlong 
 broad in the widest part. The trout are described as " large, but 
 rather shy." To obtain sport, it must blow hard : large, dark 
 flies, with tinsel on the bodies, are most successful here. 
 
 LLYN EGNANT is the largest of this group. It lies one furlong 
 due east from Llyn Hir, and is connected with the latter by a 
 small brook. The north part of the lake is the broadest, about 
 one furlong and a half. The southern portion is very narrow, and 
 connected with the broader part by a very narrow channel, scarcely 
 a quarter of a furlong in width. Its extreme length from north 
 to south is nearly half a mile. At its southern extremity a small 
 brook issues from it, which, after flowing through Nant Egnant 
 for about two miles and a half, joins the Teifi, one mile above 
 Strata Florida Abbey. Llyn Egnant is described as " an excellent 
 lake ; " the fish are generally " free," and although there are large 
 trout, the average size is much smaller than in the lakes previously 
 described. 
 
 LLYN GORLAN, a very small pool, nearly half a furlong to the 
 south of Llyn Hir, and a short distance due west of Llyn Egnant, 
 contains some very large trout, which are, however, extremely shy. 
 A small stream issues from its southern extremity, and after 
 flowing about three-quarters of a mile, empties itself into the 
 Egnant brook. This pool is two furlongs in length, but very 
 narrow; in shape it resembles Llyn Hir. LLYN GRON is the 
 smallest of these five lakes, and lies about half a furlong from 
 the south end of Egnant, which is connected with it by a very 
 small streamlet from the former. This lake is said to be entirely 
 destitute of fish, which is surprising, as you would suppose that 
 Llyn Egnant, which swarms with trout, would supply it. It is 
 probable that its waters are impregnated with some poisonous 
 mineral. 
 
 LLYN GYNON. This fine sheet of water is about three miles 
 in circumference, and its extreme breadth is fully three fur- 
 longs. Four or five brooks empty themselves into this lake, 
 and a rather large stream issues from it at the north-east 
 corner, and flows in an easterly direction. The distance to Llyn
 
 LLTNNIAU FYKDDIN VAWR AND VACH. 229 
 
 Gynon pronounced Gunnon from Pontrhydvendigaid, vid 
 Strata Florida, is about five or five and a half miles to the east. 
 After leaving the abbey, you follow for a short way the road to 
 the Teifi pools, you then turn up Nant Egnant, and follow the road 
 for a mile; on leaving the valley, you turn up a road to the right. 
 You can here cross the moorlands in a south-easterly direction 
 this course will bring you to the lake or you can proceed by the 
 road, which rather lengthens the distance. The road runs within 
 a furlong to the south of the pool. 
 
 Llyn Gynon is said to swarm with trout, some of which are 
 large, but the average size is small, especially near the shore ; a 
 boat here is essential, as it would enable you to throw over the 
 larger fish. The trout are very " free," as small fish usually are, 
 and are reported of excellent quality. 
 
 There is a very small tarn, lying about one mile to the south 
 of Gynon, called LLYN GORAST. We have been informed that the 
 trout here are very large, and of fine quality, but shy. This pool 
 is, we believe, preserved. 
 
 * LLYNNIATJ FYRDDIN VAWR AND VACH. The former of these 
 lakes is of some extent, at least three miles in circumference. 
 Its length from north to south is nearly half a mile, but it is 
 narrow in proportion, being scarcely one furlong and a half wide. 
 Its sister lake lies a short distance to the south-west, and is con- 
 nected with it by a small stream. These lakes lie farther from 
 Pontrhydvendigaid than the others we have enumerated. The 
 road to them is the same as for Llyn Teifi. You must then cross 
 the trackless moors in a north-easterly direction, until you arrive 
 at the smaller lake. The distance is about one mile and a half. 
 The fish are reported "very free" but small. 
 
 We have now enumerated all, or nearly all, of the pools belong- 
 ing to the " Teifi group." 
 
 Llyn Berwyn, which lies about six miles, as the " crow flies." 
 from Gynon, we have minutely described in chapter xvi. There 
 are two other small llyns, about three miles to the south of Strata 
 Florida, Llyn Crugnant and Llyn Du. Of these we can afford no 
 reliable information; .the former, we have heard, sometimes gives 
 good sport, but these pools are scarcely larger than Llyn Gron. 
 
 The hills surrounding these lakes are clothed with heather,
 
 230 DESOLATE CHARACTER OF THE HILLS OP CARDIGAN. 
 
 which affords shelter to grouse, plover, and snipe. The sportsman, 
 however, will find little or no shelter on the hills of Cardigan, and 
 they are perhaps the most scantily populated of any portion of 
 Wales. We are not aware that even a shepherd's hut is within 
 miles of one of these lakes, and to provide against the effects of 
 wet, stormy weather, waterproof garments are absolutely essential ; 
 without which you may often "come to grief," as the rain in 
 Wales, when it drives along from the sea over these desolate 
 uplands, comes down in a deluge, and, aided by the fury of the 
 wind, will find its way through almost any kind of macintosh, 
 unless you can manage to keep yourself well wrapped up. 
 
 Although we have endeavoured to describe as accurately as we 
 can the position and bearings of all these lakes, it must be 
 obvious that the angler, if he is a stranger to the locality, unless 
 he carries with him a pocket-compass and the Ordnance map, will 
 find the services of a guide exceedingly useful. Some years ago, 
 there were one or two excellent guides and fishermen resident at 
 Pontrhydvendigaid, who were well acquainted with the neigh- 
 bouring lakes, and the proper flies to use on them; no doubt 
 they, or others, are still to be met with. During a sojourn at 
 Tregaron, a few years since, we met with a man named Williams, 
 formerly gamekeeper to Colonel Powell of Nanteos, who was not 
 only a good fisherman, but made most excellent flies ; and to this 
 man we were indebted for the sport we enjoyed there. He was 
 also well acquainted, not only with the Cardigan lakes, but also with 
 those in Montgomeryshire. To obtain sport in Wales, you must 
 look out for a good local fisherman, who can give accurate infor- 
 mation as to the flies suitable for the district you purpose to visit ; 
 without taking this step, you will obtain little or no success. In 
 almost every locality different flies, both in size and colour, are 
 required ; and Welsh trout, like their English congeners, require 
 their appetites to be tickled. This applies more particularly to 
 the lake than the stream. 
 
 LEGENDS. There are several curious traditions in Wales, rela- 
 tive to the existence of ruined cities lying beneath the waters of 
 some of the lakes. Thus it is affirmed that the ancient " City of 
 Tregaron" lies buried, or rather ingulfed, in the waters of a small 
 lake Llyn Cringlas in the neighbourhood of Pontrhydvendigaid.
 
 LEGENDS LOVENTIUM BURIED CITIES. 231 
 
 The ancient Roman station of Loventium, it is affirmed by some 
 credulous writers, exists under the waters of Llyn Savaddon, 
 commonly called Llangorse Pool, in Brecknockshire. This asser- 
 tion, however, rests upon a legend possessing no substantial 
 foundation. It is generally supposed by the best authorities, that 
 Llanio Isau, near the banks of the Teifi, in Cardiganshire, is the 
 Roman Loventium. We refer those of our readers who may wish 
 for further information on this subject, to the late Sir S. R. 
 Meyrick's "History of Cardiganshire," a work replete with 
 erudite information upon the antiquities of the county. At Bala, 
 also, there is a similar legend. It is affirmed by some old chronicler, 
 that beneath the waters of Llyn Tegid a ruined city of consider- 
 able extent exists, and that it was swallowed up in a single night 
 by a miraculous visitation, through the wickedness of one of its 
 rulers. There is not, however, any reason to believe that a Welsh 
 Sodom or Gomorrah exists under the waters of any lake in the 
 Principality.
 
 232 BALA ITS PICTURESQUE SITUATION. 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 BALA ITS ANTIQUITY ROMAN REMAINS ANGLING STATION 
 SALMON AND TROUT PISHING LAKES IN NEIGHBOURHOOD 
 LLYN TEGID DESCRIPTION OP THE LAKE ITS DEPTH ITS 
 PISH TROUT AND PERCH PISHING PIKE LLYN ARENIG VAWR 
 ARENIG VAWR LLYN ARENIG VACH THE DEE ITS SOURCE 
 SCENERY THE TWRCH THE TRYWERYN LLYN TEYWERYN 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 " If thou art worn and hard beset 
 With sorrows that thou wouldst forget 
 If thou wouldst read a lesson that will keep 
 Thy heart from fainting and thy soul from sleep 
 Go to the LAKES and HILLS ! No tears 
 Dim the sweet look that Nature wears." 
 
 gala. 
 
 THE situation of Bala is pleasing and picturesque ; one of those 
 charming localities, which are nowhere in Wales altogether so 
 attractive to the admirer of Nature, as in the county of Merioneth. 
 Surrounded by lofty mountains which tower into the clouds on 
 both sides of the vale, and lying near the shore of the largest, 
 and, in some of its features, the most beautiful lake in Wales, it 
 is not surprising that this pleasant little town is such a favourite 
 resort during the summer months. 
 
 Bala has become an excellent angling station within the last 
 few years, and so numerous are the votaries of the rod during 
 the summer and autumn, that it is frequently difficult to procure 
 accommodation. There are two excellent old-fashioned but com- 
 fortable inns here, the " White Lion," and " Bull's Head." We 
 can speak favourably of the former from personal experience, and 
 we have always met with every comfort and attention. There are 
 several lodging-houses in the town. Bala signifies " the Outlet 
 of the Lake " an appropriate designation, as the celebrated 
 river Dee, famed for its picturesque beauty its salmon and trout
 
 BALA - ITS ANTIQUITIES LLTN TEGID. 233 
 
 fishing runs out from the north-east extremity of the lake, about 
 three-quarters of a mile from the town. 
 
 Many charming excursions can be made in this romantic 
 locality; and the angler, especially if he is conversant with the 
 neighbourhood, need be at no loss for sport in the various 
 streams and lakes, especially if he comes early in the season. 
 There is excellent lake and river fishing, as it were, on the spot ; 
 and if he can " rough " it, and bear the fatigue of a long day's 
 ramble amongst the wild mountain solitudes around, we can 
 promise to lead him where he will find some exciting sport. 
 
 Bala is a place of considerable antiquity, and, from the traces 
 that remain, was probably a Roman station. Close to the town, 
 on the south-east, is an artificial mound called Tomen-y-Bala, 
 which is supposed to have been a Roman earthwork. There are 
 also several other fortified camps in the vicinity, believed to be of 
 Roman origin. The chief attractions here to visitors, however, 
 are the Dee and the lake. Several ancient Roman roads passed 
 near the town, amongst others, one from Uriconium Wroxeter, 
 near Shrewsbury, which is now creating such an interest in the 
 antiquarian world, from the recent excavations made, and which 
 are still going on. This buried Roman city has been appropriately 
 styled the " English Pompeii." 
 
 We have previously, in chapter in., given a general enumera- 
 tion of the lakes in Merionethshire : many of them we have 
 visited, some we have minutely described. We have now, there- 
 fore, to particularise such only as belong to the Bala district, all 
 of which, except Llyn Tegid, not only lie at some distance oif, 
 but are difficult to reach, from the altitude of their situations and 
 the rough country to be traversed. Of these llyns, first in size 
 and importance is 
 
 or Pimblemere, better known as Bala Pool. This lake is of con- 
 siderable extent, and by far the largest in the Principality. Its 
 extreme length is three miles five furlongs ; its greatest breadth 
 is opposite Llan-y-cil, on the north-west shore near the lower 
 extremity, where it exceeds half a mile. Its average width 
 throughout its entire length is about half a mile, except at a
 
 234 DESCRIPTION OP LLYN TEGID. 
 
 point of land jutting into the lake opposite Gwern Hefin, where it 
 becomes much narrower for a short distance. Llyn Tegid lies in 
 a direction from north-east to south-west, and is comparatively 
 narrow according to its length. In some parts it is of great 
 depth, particularly opposite Bryn Goleu, where it is said to be 
 twenty-three fathoms, or 138 feet, with several yards of mud. 
 There are, however, at least two lakes in Wales, Llyn Peris and 
 Llyn Cwellyn, the known depth of which far exceeds this ; and 
 there are probably others. During the summer, Llyn Tegid 
 generally wears a smiling, placid aspect ; but in the winter the 
 lake is subject to furious gales of wind, which create a tremendous 
 swell, and frequently, accompanied with rain, raise the lake con- 
 siderably above its ordinary level. On such occasions, its waters 
 being driven along with the impetuosity of the wind, it overflows 
 its boundaries, and sometimes causes considerable damage in the 
 vale below. It is seldom or never entirely frozen over, even in 
 the severest winters, probably owing to the presence of springs. 
 
 Sixty years ago, Llyn Tegid was considered the finest lake in 
 Wales for trout ; but the late Sir Watkin W. Wynn, of Wynnstay, 
 from some whim or other, introduced pike, which, of course, 
 speedily destroyed the trout; and for many years few, if any, 
 were caught, except those of large size. When we were at Bala, 
 a few years ago, we were informed that, from some cause, not 
 known, the pike had considerably decreased, and trout were be- 
 coming more abundant. If this continues, Bala Pool may, in the 
 course of time, again afford good trout-fishing. Trout of six or 
 eight pounds are occasionally caught by trolling tackle, and we 
 saw a stuffed specimen of one of at least six pounds weight in the 
 window of Mr. Jones' shop, in Bala. Large trout are sometimes 
 taken with the artificial fly, but of course rarely. The lake 
 contains several other species of fish, especially perch, which are 
 exceedingly plentiful. There is also an Alpine fish called Gwyn- 
 niad, remarkable for the whiteness of its scales, hence its Welsh 
 name. We are not aware that these fish exist in any other Welsh 
 lake. There are not any char, as far as we are aware, which is 
 surprising, as they are generally found in all very deep waters. 
 Capital perch-fishing is sometimes obtained from a boat, either 
 with worm or by trolling ; by the latter method, large trout are
 
 PERCH, TROUT, AND PIKE PISHING. 235 
 
 occasionally captured. Sir Watkin W. Wynn liberally allows 
 anglers free permission to fish in all parts of the lake, but the use 
 of the net is reserved. 
 
 During the season a great many anglers amuse themselves on 
 the lake, perch-fishing, and frequently obtain excellent sport. 
 The average size of these fish is from a quarter to half a pound. 
 Shore-fishing is not much pursued, the banks of the pool being in 
 many places fringed with wood ; and besides, in a large llyn like 
 this, it is impossible for the stranger to find out the haunts of the 
 fish. In all lakes, trout swim in shoals ; and when your boat 
 drifts over one of these, you are almost certain, for a short time, 
 if the fish are feeding, to have numerous " rises." This circum- 
 stance accounts for that irregularity in the " rise " which occurs 
 even on the most favourable day. 
 
 The pike in Bala Pool attain to a great size ; and, some years 
 ago, many noble fish were captured. Eels and roach also abound. 
 Sir Watkin W. Wynn has a very neat fishing box, called Glan 
 Llyn, on the west shore of the lake, for the accommodation of his 
 friends ; it is about two miles from Bala. 
 
 Previous to the Reformation, the exclusive right of fishing in 
 this lake belonged to the Abbey of Basingwerk, in Flintshire. 
 Afterwards it came into the possession of the Wynn family. 
 
 The scenery around Llyn Tegid is very lovely; the western 
 shore, for nearly the whole of its extent, is adorned with wood ; 
 and on a fine summer's day the lake is frequently without a 
 ripple on its surface. The view of the Arans, especially Aran 
 Benllyn, which towers majestically to the south, and from whence 
 the Dee has its source, and the highest peak of Cader Idris 
 appearing in the extreme distance, forms one of the finest moun- 
 tain vistas in the Principality. Perhaps the best view of the lake 
 and the scenery generally is from the road leading to Mallwyd, on 
 the eastern shore ; but on all sides this beautiful sheet of water 
 is captivating in the extreme. 
 
 " Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face, 
 The mirror where the stars and mountains view 
 The stillness of their aspect in each trace 
 Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue." BYRON.
 
 236 LLYN ARENIG AN EVENING SCENE. 
 
 Under the steeps of the lofty Arenig Vawr, which looms up in 
 majestic grandeur to the left, as you proceed on the road from 
 Bala to Ffestiniog, lies a fine pool, called Llyn Arenig Vawr. It 
 is at least half a mile in length, by nearly the same distance in 
 breadth; of an oval form, and of immense depth. This lake 
 contains some very large trout, many of them from three to six 
 pounds weight ; but they are amongst the most shy, wary fish in 
 the Principality. Nothing can be done on the lake, during the 
 spring and summer, with the artificial fly, but in autumn, previous 
 to the spawning season, some heavy fish are occasionally caught, 
 especially by those anglers who are acquainted with the lake. 
 These trout are said to be exceedingly strong, and fight well 
 when on the hook. It is singular they are so shy during the 
 other seasons of the year ; but we have been informed, by a good 
 local authority, that it is supposed to arise from the abundance of 
 tiny fish, probably minnows, which are to be found in the lake, 
 and which these trout are supposed to feed upon. It is certain 
 that where there is abundance of small bait, large trout seldom 
 rise well at the fly. 
 
 Our first view of Llyn Arenig was near the close of one of 
 those lovely summer evenings, the brightness of which casts such 
 a charm even over the wildest and most desolate mountain soli- 
 tudes. The day had been exceedingly hot, hotter, in fact, than we 
 had ever before experienced amongst the mountains of Wales. 
 After skirting the north-east shoulder of the stupendous moun- 
 tain above, we suddenly came in sight of the lake, which appeared 
 to our vision probably owing to the peculiarly rarified state 
 of the atmosphere of more than twice the magnitude that it 
 really is. Not a breath of air disturbed its surface ; there lay its 
 blue pellucid waters in calmness and repose, reflecting with the 
 accuracy of the photograph the savage crags and deep hollows of 
 the sublime mountain above, the outlines of which were as crisp 
 and defined, from the perfect absence of cloud or vapour, as ima- 
 gination can conceive. It was, indeed, a magnificent picture, and 
 one we have often since remembered with feelings of delight.
 
 ARENIG VAWR LLYN AKENIG VAOH. 237 
 
 Not a whisper disturbed the intense stillness and solitude of this 
 mountain retreat, nor was there a living creature to be seen. 
 The untamed majesty of nature, in all its wildness and beauty, 
 was here depicted with startling effect. 
 
 " Who hath not felt the softness of the hour 
 Sink on the heart, as dew along the flower ? 
 Who hath not shared that calm, so still and deep, 
 The voiceless thought, that would not wake but weep P" 
 
 is one of the loftiest mountains in Wales ; grand and sublime in 
 appearance. Its height, according to the Ordnance survey, is 
 2,809 feet ; about 105 feet lower than Cader Idris. A- visit to 
 the summit would form a most delightful excursion from Bala. 
 
 ROUTE TO THE LAKE. There is a wild, rough mountain road 
 between Bala and* Pont BJiyd-y-Fen, on the Ffestiniog road, 
 which passes within half a mile of the pool. Leave the road at 
 Bryn Evan, cross a turbary, and proceed over a ridge called Garth, 
 on the far side of which lies the lake ; the distance from Bala is 
 about six miles and a half. Before you reach the foot of the 
 ridge you cross a small brook, the Derfil, which flows through 
 Aber Derfil in its course to the river Tryweryn. This brook has 
 its source near one of the eastern arms of the Arenig; a small 
 feeder, which issues from the south-east side of the lake, joins it 
 after flowing a short distance to the south-east. 
 
 There is another stream which runs from the north-east corner 
 of the pool into the Tryweryn, through ]Nant-y-Llyn "the vale 
 of the lake " its length is about a mile due north. This de- 
 scription is sufficiently minute to enable the pedestrian to find his 
 way without a guide. If he has the Ordnance map in his pocket, 
 not the smallest difficulty can occur. 
 
 f Ip Arenig #ac& 
 
 is a wild secluded pool, on elevated ground, lying under the pre- 
 cipices of Arenig Vach, to the right of the road leading to 
 Ffestiniog. On leaving Bala, you proceed along the road which
 
 238 EXCURSION TO LLTN ARENIG VAOH. 
 
 runs near tlie banks of the Tryweryn for the entire distance, 
 about six miles. This river is a rapid, rocky mountain torrent 
 flowing from a small llyn of that name in a solitary mountain 
 district near the vicinity of Castell Prysor and Trawsfynydd. 
 Here you leave the road after crossing Pont-Ar-Gelyn, and strike 
 up the lower ranges of Arenig Vach in a north-west direction. 
 After a stiff walk of about one mile and a half, you are at length 
 rewarded with a view of the lake, which presents a more dreary, 
 solemn aspect than the sister pool. Nevertheless, from the hollow 
 it lies in, being encompassed by hills on both sides, it has a 
 romantic appearance. Its extreme length from north to south 
 does not much exceed two furlongs and a half. At the southern 
 extremity it is about one furlong and a half broad, but it gradually 
 gets narrower towards the north, which gives it a triangular form. 
 At its extreme or lower end its waters are dammed up by an arti- 
 ficial embankment, and a small brook runs from the lake which 
 joins the Gelyn about a mile off. The Gelyn rises in a wild, deso- 
 late mountain range called Bryn Cerbyd, a few miles to the south- 
 east of Yspytty Evan. 
 
 On the east shore, the walking is tolerably easy for the entire 
 length of the lake, but on the west side the shore is for the most 
 part rocky and precipitous, and in some places it is impossible to 
 approach the pool, as the water washes the bases of the perpen- 
 dicular rocks which lie above it. The distance from Bala to this 
 lake is at least eight miles. Llyn Arenig Vach contains some fine 
 trout, which are sometimes tolerably "free" when there is a good 
 breeze, and excellent sport is to be had. Some trout of four 
 pounds weight have been taken here with the fly. Williams, the 
 guide and fisherman at Tregaron, informed us that he had several 
 times caught here some very large trout, which afforded splendid 
 sport ; they were very strong, and difficult to kill. 
 
 We once made an excursion from Bala to this llyn, during some 
 very hot, bright weather in June. We followed the route pre- 
 viously indicated, and were disappointed to find on our arrival at 
 the pool, that it was a dead calm ; not a breath of wind ruffled 
 its surface. Of course, angling was out of the question, at least 
 with any prospect of success. Nevertheless, we made a few 
 "casts" as we proceeded along the east shore, and saw some very
 
 HOOK A LARGE TROUT RHYD-Y-FEN. 239 
 
 large fish lazily rolling about near the surface, apparently on the 
 feed. During "a cat's paw" of wind, we at length succeeded in 
 rising a noble trout of at least three pounds; but he rose so 
 " fine," that, to our extreme mortification, after holding him on 
 for nearly a minute, the hook broke from its hold, and away went 
 our fish. We are satisfied, with a good breeze, we should have 
 had some exciting sport. The lake is situate in a hollow, and so 
 sheltered from the wind in every quarter except the north, that 
 it is very often quite calm in the summer. 
 
 After trying in vain for upwards of two hours, we made a cir- 
 cuit of the lake, and proceeded from the upper end towards the 
 Ffestiniog road, distant about a mile and a half. After descending 
 from these uplands into the road, we wended our way to a solitary 
 public house, and were really glad to get under shelter, as the 
 rays of the sun were quite overpowering in the vale. The name 
 of this place is Rhyd-y-Fen; it is about seven miles from Bala. 
 The distance between Bala and Ffestiniog is nineteen miles, over 
 one of the most wild and lonely roads we ever traversed ; not a 
 house or a human being to be met with for miles. Upon one 
 occasion, during the exceedingly dry summer of 1844, whilst 
 travelling on foot through these wilds, we had some difficulty to 
 procure even a cup of water, as nearly all the mountain rills and 
 springs were dried up, and it was not until we arrived at Rhyd- 
 y-Fen that we could procure any refreshment whatever. As far as 
 we can recollect, this is the only tavern to be met with throughout 
 the entire distance. The cwrw here is excellent, almost equal to 
 any we have ever met with in the by-ways of Wales. 
 
 We afterwards proceeded to visit Llyn Arenig Vawr, crossing 
 a wet spongy morass, intersected by a small brook, with no little 
 difficulty, as several drains in the turbary were wide and deep. 
 We were afterwards entangled for some time among the rocks 
 and boulders, which strew the sides and bottom of the mountain, 
 and from the roughness of the way it was very fatiguing. We 
 have previously described this lake. The distance between these 
 pools is probably about two miles and a half by " crow flight ; " 
 but if you take Rhyd-y-Fen in your way, it is at least a mile and 
 a half more. These lakes are seldom visited by anglers ; they lie 
 at too great a distance from Bala; but, notwithstanding, we
 
 "240 THE DEE DERIVATION OP ITS NAME. 
 
 strongly recommend an excursion to the lesser pool. You must 
 choose a day when there is a brisk wind, and not too bright. Mr. 
 Jones, saddler, of Bala, who is very obliging, and an experienced 
 fisherman, will, if you require it, procure you a guide, and give 
 you every information. His flies are very neatly tied, equal, if 
 not superior, to any we have met with elsewhere in Wales. It 
 is no use to attempt to fish these lakes without being supplied 
 with a stock of flies suitable for the water. 
 
 " We wind the zigzag path, and pause to hear 
 The river's deepening echoes oh ! how clear, 
 How lovely, in the morn's white light appear 
 Those tufted rocks, those crags, whose shadows wear 
 Magic varieties." 
 
 " Deva's wizard stream " is one of the most picturesque and 
 beautiful of Welsh rivers. Its name is said to be derived from a 
 Welsh word Dwfr Dwy which signifies " the water of two 
 rivers." A sister stream the Twrch joins the Dee about half 
 a mile before it enters into Llyn Tegid, in the flat, marshy meadow 
 lands, which might with propriety be called the delta of the river, 
 and which in winter are sometimes under water. The sources of 
 the Dee are about two miles to the west of the summit of Aran 
 Benllyn, near the left of the road leading to Dolgelley, and consist 
 of two small brooks, which, springing from a lower range of the 
 mountain, called y-Gorls-Wyd, unite together, and form the river 
 called Dwfr Dwy, hence the name. These brooks rise about nine 
 miles from Bala. 
 
 The Twrch, a considerable stream, also consists of two branches, 
 one of which rises near the head of Cwm Croes ; the main branch 
 springs in Cwm Cwnllwd, a lonely recess in one of the spurs of 
 the mighty Aran Mowddwy, and flows for some distance near the 
 road leading through Bwlch-y-Groes, "the Pass of the Cross." 
 This pass was formerly so dangerous as to be a terror to travellers. 
 A cross was erected at the head of the pass, in order that the 
 pious might offer up their thanksgivings at its foot for safe de- 
 liverance from the dangers of the way. The waters of all these
 
 SCENERY OP THE DEB TRYWERYN LLYN TRYWERYN. 241 
 
 rivers, unless swollen by rain, are beautifully clear and pellucid, 
 so much so, that one of the old chroniclers, Oiraldus Cambrensis, 
 gravely informs us, in his "Itinerary of Wales," that the course of 
 the Dee might be traced through Bala Lake for the whole of its 
 course. We need hardly add, that this assertion is entirely 
 fabulous. The fact is, the water in Llyn Tegid is mainly derived 
 from the Dee and its tributaries, so that its water is equally as 
 clear as the river. Our jaunty heroine, after its confluence with 
 the lake, passes from it under a stone bridge at the north-east 
 lower extremity, about half a mile from Bala, and flows in a rather 
 rapid silvery stream through the " sweet vale of Edeirnion," on 
 its course to Corwen and Llangollen. Along its entire course to 
 these towns, its banks present on either side, a succession of varied 
 and most enchanting scenery ; the stream is embowered in some 
 parts with trees and coppice, which, although it adds greatly 
 to its adornment and beauty, interferes with the free use of 
 the rod ; and to fish the river properly, an India-rubber boat or 
 coracle is absolutely indispensable to such anglers as can safely 
 use them. 
 
 Trout fishing in the Dee, under judicious conservation, has 
 much improved of late years ; and in spring, during the month of 
 April, when the river is in good order, capital sport is obtained 
 by such anglers as know the river well. Salmon abound also at 
 the proper season. 
 
 The Dee, in its course to Chester, receives several tributaries, 
 amongst the most important of which are the Alwen, flowing 
 from a Llyn of that name in Denbighshire, the Ceiriog, the 
 Clywedog, and the Alyn : the latter rises in the mountains near 
 Llandegla. 
 
 The Tryweryn joins the Dee about three-quarters of a mile 
 from Bala ; this river is full of small trout, which in the spring 
 and summer are a source of profit to the local fishermen. The 
 length of the Tryweryn is about twelve miles ; it flows out of 
 
 a small pool, the north shore of which is bounded by the solitary 
 road leading to Castell Prysor and Trawsfynydd. This road
 
 242 LLYN TRYWERYN BLARES IN THE VICINITY. 
 
 branches to the right, out of the Ffestiniog turnpike-road, near 
 Pont Rhyd-y-Fen. The river, soon after it leaves the lake, ia 
 joined by several small streams, the chief of which rises in the 
 hills to the north-west, and at Pont Rhyd-y-Fen its size is con- 
 siderably augmented. 
 
 Llyn Tryweryn " the transparent lake " is of small dimen- 
 sions ; it scarcely exceeds three furlongs in length, and lies in a 
 direction from north-west to south-east. In breadth, it is hardly 
 one furlong and a half in its broadest part. It is full of small 
 trout, which sometimes rise freely ; but they have not a very in- 
 viting appearance, being dark coloured ; and those we have caught 
 were in poor condition. This lake, therefore, does not hold out 
 any very great attraction to the angler. The pool can hardly be 
 said to belong to the Bala district, as its distance from that town 
 twelve or thirteen miles is rather too far to tempt even the 
 most ardent fisherman. The chief pleasure to be derived from a 
 visit to some of these sequestered tarns, is the love of wild adven- 
 ture, and a desire to explore the hidden works of Nature; in 
 short, to make acquaintance with its scenic attractions, which 
 often present to the eye of the inquirer features the most sublime 
 and romantic ; and there is a charm, an excitement, in the pursuit 
 of novel scenery, to feast the eye, to expand the taste, and to 
 elevate the mind. 
 
 There are several other lakes in this vicinity, chiefly the property 
 of Sir W. W. Wynn ; they are, we believe, preserved, but none 
 of them afford good sport : in one or two perch are to be found. 
 All these pools properly belong to the Trawsfynydd district, in 
 the neighbourhood of which they lie. 
 
 In thus concluding this brief and imperfect sketch of Bala, its 
 lakes and rivers, we bring our Wanderings to a dose. 
 
 Those who travel through Wales in search of health, or for the 
 enjoyment of fine scenery, will find throughout the country, not 
 only very comfortable accommodation at most of the respectable 
 inns and hotels, but into the bargain, the greatest attention and 
 civility. Anglers, in pursuit of sport, can generally make them- 
 selves " at home " in any wild sequestered nook. The sportsman 
 may fearlessly roam at all hours, amongst the wildest mountain 
 retreats, the most secluded lakes and streams, without molesta-
 
 CONCLUDING REMARKS. 243 
 
 tion or interruption; and we have frequently met with genuine 
 hospitality and kindness, when in " out of the world " places, from 
 the humblest peasants. 
 
 To such as delight to inhale pure invigorating mountain air, or 
 " to revel in the varied delights that are to be found in the wild 
 and wonderful of Nature," who feel a pleasurable excitement of 
 mind and body, as they trace the flashing stream to its source in 
 a wild hill solitude, or view the sun rise from the summit of some 
 lofty mountain, we strongly recommend if leisure permits an 
 exploration of the " treasures of Cambria." Some of these scenes 
 we have endeavoured, perhaps faintly, but at least truthfully, to 
 depict ; and may the votaries of the " gentle arte " derive as 
 much pleasure and gratification as we have experienced, amongst 
 the hills and dales of Wales.
 
 244 ARTIFICIAL FLIES FLIES FOR MARCH. 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 fljie Angler's 
 
 ARTIFICIAL FLIES. In some of the previous chapters of this 
 work, we have pointed out a few of the flies that we have found 
 most successful on the Welsh lakes ; but as the best lake fishing 
 occurs in June and part of July, the flies mentioned are chiefly 
 useful during those months only. It may therefore be useful to 
 anglers in Wales, if we furnish a more complete list of both lake 
 and river flies for every month during the season, from March to 
 the end of August. 
 
 FLIES FOB MARCH. As we have already remarked, many of 
 the Welsh rivers are early, and the angler will, on some of them, 
 have the best sport during this month, if the water is suitable. 
 The most successful fly we have ever used during March, is the 
 Cob Fly, as it is termed in Wales; but better known as the March 
 Brown. During the flights of this fly on some of the rivers we 
 may especially instance the Usk and the Teifi the trout seize 
 upon this insect with great avidity, and during its continuance on 
 the water, it is perfectly useless to fish with any other fly. The 
 great Red Spinner, called also the light Mackerel, is also an excel- 
 lent fly; and with these two flies, weather and water suitable, 
 first rate sport may be obtained. The Cow Dung fly is chiefly 
 serviceable during windy weather. We have used it on the lakes 
 in May and June, during a gale, accompanied with rain, and often 
 with success. This fly may occasionally be observed on the water 
 throughout the season, particularly during rough weather. The 
 Red Spinner, which is the Blue Dun, after it has cast its coat, is 
 a good general fly for the river, either in March, or later in the
 
 PLIES FOR APRIL MAY JUNE. 245 
 
 season. The Blue Dun is an excellent fly, especially during March 
 and April. With a good stock of these flies, the requirements of 
 the angler will be amply provided for during this month. 
 
 FLIES FOR APRIL. This month, if mild, and free from frosty 
 nights, is one of the best months for river fishing in the year. In 
 most rivers, trout rise well during the whole of this month, and 
 many of the flies that appear on the water may be successfully 
 used in May. One of these, the Sand fly, is a good general stream 
 fly from April to September. In May it is the best fly you can 
 use on the Teifi, indeed, it is absolutely indispensable to ensure 
 success. The Stone fly, Yellow Dun, Iron Blue Dun, and Haw- 
 thorn fly, complete our list for April. 
 
 FLIES FOR MAT. "River fishing for trout during this month, 
 may virtually be said to be nearly over in Wales. If the weather 
 is fine and dry, which is frequently the case, especially from the 
 middle to the end of the month, the rivers and brooks become low 
 and clear; and as the trees at this season have put on their summer 
 livery, trout fishing with the artificial fly becomes an unprofitable 
 pursuit. We must leave it to naturalists to account for the fact 
 of trout ceasing to rise when the leaves are out ; the only reason 
 we can assign is, that it may probably arise from the fish prefer- 
 ring to prey on the larvae of the insect tribe, which lie at the 
 bottom of the water, and which only spring into life when they 
 reach the surface. Of course these remarks apply only to large 
 trout ; " tittlebats " will at times rise freely throughout the whole 
 of the summer. We shall now indicate a few flies, some of which 
 will be found equally useful on the lake or stream. The Oak fly, 
 Black Gnat, Yellow Sally useless on a lake Alder fly, one of 
 the most killing flies on a lake we ever tried in May or June- 
 the Fern fly, Sky Blue, and Little Dark Spinner, should also be 
 found in the angler's book. 
 
 FLIES FOR JUNE. This is the very best month in the year for 
 the lakes, if not too hot and bright. The angler ma'y discard the 
 whole of the Drake tribe from his collection. They are alike 
 useless for the river or lake in Wales, as far as our experience 
 goes. One of the most successful flies during this month, espe- 
 cially during a moderately calm,*warm, sunny day, is the Coch-a- 
 Bonddu, called in England the Marlow Buzz, or Shorn fly. Indeed,
 
 246 FLIES .FOR JULY AUGUST FISHING TACKLE. 
 
 with this and the Alder fly, we have killed more good trout on the 
 lakes during June, than with almost any other fly. The dark 
 Mackerel is also a capital fly, especially on Llyn Cwellyn. There 
 are several other flies which we have found very successful in 
 June on the Caernarvonshire lakes. These are what are locally 
 called the Peahen, the Pale-yellow Dun, the March Brown, with 
 pale-yellow silk body excellent during rain the Cinnamon, the 
 Governor John Shaw, of Shrewsbury, makes a capital fly of this 
 name and the Wrentail. The angler, however, on his arrival at 
 a Fishing Station, will do well to consult a local fisherman, who 
 will always be able to afford a " wrinkle" or two, as well as supply 
 him with flies adapted for the locality. 
 
 FLIES FOB JULY. Several of the flies previously enumerated, 
 we have found equally good during the present month, particularly 
 the Peahen, dark Mackerel, Wrentail, and Coch-a-Bonddu. The 
 Silver-horns is well spoken of by some anglers ; but we never 
 tried it. The Red Ant and July Dun we have occasionally used. 
 Avoid all the Palmer species, which we never found of much 
 account on the lakes. These flies, so much in vogue with anglers 
 on English rivers, do not seem to suit the palates of Welsh trout. 
 
 FLIES FOB, AUGUST. Lake fishing in Wales we consider to be 
 nearly over by the end of July. You may now and then have 
 tolerably good sport on some of the pools especially Llyn 
 Cwellyn ; but, as a general rule, angling in most of the lakes is 
 an unprofitable pursuit. On some of the best lakes in Merioneth- 
 shire, you will hardly be able to stir a fish during this month. 
 We need hardly specify any fliee. On Llyn Cwellyn, we have 
 found the dark Mackerel and the Peahen the most successful flies, 
 especially the former. The August Dun, Cinnamon, and Grouse 
 Hackle, with bright orange body, are perhaps amongst the best 
 flies. 
 
 FISHING TACKLE. It is perhaps necessary to observe, that 
 although you may procure good flies, you seldom or never meet 
 with good gut in Wales. The angler therefore will act wisely to 
 take with him a hank or two of the best London gut, round, but 
 not too thick, as the finer the tackle employed, the better is the 
 chance of sport. A supply of fish-hooks is also a desideratum, as 
 the hooks in Wales are frequently very indifferent. There are
 
 PISHING TACKLE HINTS. 247 
 
 several sorts of hooks, but, on the whole, we prefer the " Kirby 
 bend " to any other. Numbers 9 to 12 are the best sizes. Gene- 
 rally speaking, small flies on number 11 hooks kill the most fish : 
 of course, the Alder fly, the Peahen, and some others, require 
 larger ones. As the water on some of the lakes is of a dark peaty 
 colour, it is desirable to stain your gut, to assimilate it to the 
 colour of the water. This can be accomplished by infusing it in 
 some strong coffee, which gives it the requisite hue. Some use a 
 weak solution of copperas, but coffee is far preferable. With 
 these precautions, you can have your flies tied if you are not a 
 proficient in the art by some experienced local fly-dresser ; and 
 at several of the angling stations, Beddgelert, Bala, Dolgelley, 
 and other places, there are professed artificial fly-dressers, who 
 tie flies extremely well. A line of silk and hair mixed, not too 
 fine, about thirty-five yards long, some " gut-bottoms," and a skein 
 or two of orange-coloured silk, will nearly complete the angler's 
 wants. Be careful, on your return home from fishing, to unwind 
 your line from the winch round the back of a chair, and thoroughly 
 dry it before you wind it on again. If you leave the line wet on 
 the winch, it is soon apt to get rotten, and frequently leads to 
 disappointment and annoyance. In pp. 116, 117, and 118, ante, 
 the reader will find some instructions as to lake fishing, choice of 
 rods, &c., and other essential particulars.
 
 248 NOTES. 
 
 fobs. 
 
 NOTE 1, page 20. (PRESERVATION OF THE DYFI.) Since the first 
 sheets of this work passed through the hands of the printer, we have 
 received a communication from an esteemed friend in North Wales, 
 relative to the ' ' Dyfi Angling Club," and the prospects of the incoming 
 season. We are informed that the Dyfi fishing is now better preserved 
 than ever ; a "strong aristocratic club having been formed," withnew 
 and revised rules. 
 
 Last year (1859) was a very bad fishing season on the Dyfi, and on all 
 the rivers in Wales, owing to the long drought. The lake fishing was 
 also very indifferent ; at Tal-y-Llyn there was bad sport throughout 
 the summer. This year, from present appearances, there is every 
 prospect of a successful season, both for salmon and trout. 
 
 Anglers will be glad to learn that a railway, now in course of con- 
 struction between Oswestry, Shrewsbury, and Newtown, Montgomery- 
 shire, will be open for traffic next autumn ; which will bring the rail to 
 within thirty miles of Machynlleth. 
 
 NOTE 2, page 201. (CORACLES.) These primitive boats, which are 
 doubtless "as old as the time of the ancient Britons, are only to be met 
 with, as far as we know, on the rivers in Wales. They are common on 
 the Wye, the Usk, the Teifi, and the Dyfi ; and are employed by the 
 native fishermen either for the purposes of netting salmon or angling 
 for trout or grayling. The word coracle, or coriacle, is derived from 
 the Latin word coria, a skin ; and from this, it has been conjectured 
 that the Britons were indebted to their Roman conquerors for the intro- 
 duction of the coracle. Bo this as it may, there can be no doubt of the 
 high antiquity of these boats. The coracle is about four feet wide, and 
 two feet in depth : the framework is constructed of wicker-work, which 
 is generally covered with a skin, well tarred and pitched ; but some we 
 have seen were covered with stout canvas, of course well anointed with 
 the same materials, and rendered perfectly water-tight. These fragile 
 barks are so light, that the fishermen can carry them on their heads, or 
 over their shoulders, with ease. It is surprising with what skill they 
 can manage these ticklish boats, which to the uninitiated are exceedingly 
 dangerous; for they are so "crank," that a slight oscillation is suf- 
 ficient to upset them. The coracle is navigated by means of two short 
 paddles, the blades of which are broad. In experienced hands, there is 
 little or no danger of being " capsized ;" we have known several old 
 fishermen on the Wye, at Monmouth, who had been engaged in fishing 
 all their lives without ever meeting with an accident. Several of these
 
 NOTES. 249 
 
 men could not even swim. The chief art in the navigation of the coracle 
 is to preserve a steady equilibrium, and to sit in the centre perfectly 
 quiet ; if you have sufficient nerve to do this, you may safely descend 
 the rapids of rivers without danger, as these boats ride like a cork on 
 the water. 
 
 NOTE 3, page 213. (DAVYDD-AP-GwiLYM.) In our brief sketch of 
 the history of the Abbey of Strata Florida, we alluded to the traditionary 
 assertion that this celebrated bard lies interred under one of the aged 
 yew-trees in the Abbey cemetery. Davydd-ap-Gwilym flourished in 
 the thirteenth century, and his poetry has always been considered by 
 Welsh scholars as being of a high standard of excellence. The following 
 beautiful ode "To the Sky -lark" is, as Captain Medwin observes, 
 "steeped in inspiration," and we are indebted to that author for a 
 version of it from the original Welsh. The opening line, " Hail, thou ! 
 who singest at Heaven's gate ! " has, however, a marvellous affinity to 
 Shakspere. 
 
 "I'R EHEDYDD." 
 
 "TO THE SKY-LARK." 
 
 ' HAIL, thou ! who singest at Heaven's gate ! 
 
 Blest chorister of May ! 
 Before the throne of God elate, 
 Who lov"st on joyous wings to soar and play 
 With homeless clouds and winds ; forerunner of the day ! 
 
 ' Would I, as thou, up yon steep height 
 
 Could climb, as blithe and free ; 
 View the first blush of morning light, 
 
 Make the pale westering moon my love, and be, 
 ". 'Twixt darkness and the dawn a link of melody. 
 
 ' No lover of the woods thou art, 
 
 Thou dread'st no archer's war ; 
 Thou dwell'st as Seraphs do, apart 1 
 Fill with thy warblings earth and sea, and air, 
 And float, the stars among, a spirit and a star."
 
 ANGLING STATIONS : 
 Tal-y-Llyn, 1. 
 Minffordd, 3. 
 Machynlleth, 20. 
 Llanbrynmair, 21. 
 Cemmaes, 22. 
 Towyn, 27. 
 MaUwyd, 29, 81. 
 Llanbedr, 35, 41. 
 Harlech, 34. 
 Beddgelert, 63. 
 Llyn Cwellyn, 101, 105. 
 Pen-y-Gwryd, 129. 
 Capel Curig, 178. 
 Tregaron, 202. 
 
 Pontrhydvendigaid, 200, 211. 
 Bala, 232. 
 Lampeter, 200. 
 
 Abergwynolwyn, 28. 
 
 Aran Mowddwy, 32. 
 
 Aber Artro, 45. 
 
 Artro River, 43. 
 
 Avon Las River, 85. 
 
 Angling stations in Caernarvonshire, 
 
 63. 
 
 Angling stations in Cardiganshire, 201. 
 Angling at Beddgelert, expenses of, 66. 
 Arenig Vawr, 237. 
 Artificial Flies, 244. 
 
 BWLCH-Y-GROES, 33, 240. 
 Bwlch Tyddiad, 37. 
 Beddgelert, 63. 
 Black- backed gnlls, 79. 
 Bwlch Cwm Brwnog, 76, 166. 
 Boat-fishing, 117. 
 Bwlch-y-Gwyddyl, 139. 
 Bwlch Cyfryw Drym, 181. 
 Berwyn River, 202. 
 Beaver in Wales, 203. 
 Blaen Twrch Uchaf, 22L 
 Blaen Pennant, 32. 
 Beddgelert, Angling at, 88. 
 Braich Der, 194. 
 Bala, 232. 
 
 CADER IDRIS, 12. 
 Cemmaes, 32. 
 Craig Llyn l>yfi, 22. 
 Craig Aderyn, 27. 
 Cowarch River, 32. 
 Cerist River, 32, 
 
 ClefBon River, 31. 
 
 Craig Ddrwg, 37. 
 
 Craig Wion, 37. 
 
 Cwm Nantcol, 42, 48. 
 
 Craig-y-Saeth, 43. 
 
 Cwm Bychan, 42. 
 
 Camlan River, 50. 
 
 Craig-y-Ddinas, 53. 
 
 Carneddi Hengwm, 57. 
 
 Cromlech at Cors-y-Gedol, 57. 
 
 Cors-y-Gedol, 58. 
 
 Capel Curig, 63, 175. 
 
 Cwm Clogwyn, 74. 
 
 Clogwyn-du-yr-Arddu, 76, 166. 
 
 Craig Llyn Llagi, 79. 
 
 Cwm Ystradllyn, 84. 
 
 Colwyn River, 86, 89. 
 
 Craig-y-Llan, 87. 
 
 Cnight, 92. 
 
 Cwm Croesor, 95. 
 
 Castell Cidwm, 104. 
 
 Char, 106. 
 
 Craig-y-Bera, 112, 114. 
 
 Cwellyn, Vale of, 101. 
 
 Clynnog Vawr, 121. 
 
 Church at Clynnog, 121. 
 
 Craig-y-Llam, 126. 
 
 Carnedd-y-Gwynt, 133. 
 
 Cromlech at Clynnog, 122. 
 
 Clogwyn-du-ymhen-y-Glyder, 136. 
 
 Clawdd Coch, 157, 160. 
 
 Caenant Mawr, 165. 
 
 Capel Curig, Lakes in vicinity of, 179. 
 
 Carnedd Llewelyn, 183. 
 
 Carnedd Davydd, 184. 
 
 Cwm Llan, 70. 
 
 Castell-y-Geifr, 193. 
 
 Cwm Berwyn, 202. 
 
 Cardigan, Wilds of, 217, 218. 
 
 Cader Idris, Ascents to summit, 16, 
 
 17, 18. 
 
 Crib-y-Rhiw, 52. 
 Carnedd Llewelyn, View from summit 
 
 of, 183. 
 Coracles, 201. 
 Cob-fly, Sport during nights of, 201,208. 
 
 DYFI RIVER, 20, 21, 33. 
 Dysynni River, 3, 27, 28. 
 Dyfi, Source of, 32, 33. 
 Dol Rheiddiog, 45. 
 Drws Ardudwy, 56. 
 Drws-y-Coed, 73, 112, 115.
 
 252 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Dolbenmaen, 99. 
 
 Dwyfor River, 99. 
 
 Ddinas Dinlle, 120. 
 
 Dolbadarn, 132, 171. 
 
 Dolbadarn Castle, 163, 168. 
 
 Davydd-ap-Gwilym, 213. 
 
 Dolbadarn, Warner's description of, 
 
 171, 172, 173. 
 Dee River, 240. 
 
 EXCURSION to Cwm Clogwyn, 75. 
 Excursion to Llyn Llagi, &c. 78. 
 Excursion to Llyn Edno, 81. 
 Excursion to summit of Moel Hebog, 
 
 89. 
 
 Excursion to summit of Cnight, 93. 
 Excursions through Nantllef Pass, 
 
 113, 114, 115. 
 
 Excursion to Clynnog, Tr-Eifl, &c. 120. 
 Excursion to summit of Glyder Bach, 
 
 133, 136. 
 
 Excursion to Llyn Llydaw, 139. 
 Excursion to summit of Snowdon, 155. 
 Excursion to summits of Carnedds 
 
 Llewelyn and Davydd, 180. 
 Excursion to Llyn Idwal, 191. 
 Excursions to Llyn Berwyn, 204, 205. 
 Excursion from Devil's Bridge to 
 
 Llandovery, 209. 
 Esgob, Forest of, 222. 
 Erw Ddafad Ddu, 33. 
 Excursion to Llyn Arenig Vach, 238. 
 
 FFYNNON PERIS, 165. 
 
 GLYDER BACH, Singular appearance of 
 
 summit, 135. 
 
 Glyder Bach, 16, 133, 136. 
 Glowlyn, 42. 
 Glyn Artro, 42, 45. 
 Guides and Fishermen at Beddgelert, 
 
 65. 
 
 Gwrfki River, 103, 109. 
 Gyrn Goch, 120. 
 Glas Llyn, 131. 
 Gwryd River, 137, 145. 
 Glyder Vawr, 133, 135. 
 Gorphwysfa, 139. 
 
 Gilpin on the scenery of Snowdon, 169. 
 Gilpinonthe scenery of Dolbadarn, 170. 
 Great Holyhead Road, 177. 
 Gorges, the land of, 223. 
 Guide at Towyn, 29. 
 
 HARLECH, 34. 
 
 Hints to sportsmen, 59, 118. 
 
 Hearing of fish, 192. 
 
 Horseback, Superiority of travelling 
 
 on, 198. 
 Hafod, 210. 
 Hen Monachlog, 213. 
 
 IKNS and HOTELS : 
 
 Tyn-y-Cornel Inn, Tal-y-Llyn, 3. 
 Pen-y-Bont Inn, Tal-y-Llyn, 3. 
 Blue Lion Inn, Minflbrdd, 3. 
 
 INNS and HOTELS : 
 
 Inn at Llanbrynmair, 21. 
 Wynnstay Arms Hotel, Mach- 
 
 ynlleth, 21. 
 Inn at Cemmaes, 22. 
 Corbet Arms Inn, Towyn, 27. 
 Inn at Mallwyd, 31. 
 Blue Lion Hotel, Harlech, 35. 
 Victoria Inn, Llanbedr, 41. 
 Goat Hotel, Beddgelert, 65. 
 Prince Llewelyn Inn, Beddgelert, 
 
 65. 
 
 Madoc Arms Inn, Tremadoc, 100. 
 Snowdon Ranger Hotel, Llyn 
 
 Cwellyn, 104, 110. 
 Newborough Arms Inn, Clynnog, 
 
 121. 
 
 Waterloo Inn, Llanael-haiarn, 123. 
 Inn at Pen-y-Gwryd, 130. 
 Dolbadarn Castle Hotel, Llan- 
 
 beris. 162. 
 Royal Victoria Hotel, Llanberis, 
 
 162. 
 
 Vaenol Arms Inn, Llanberis, 162. 
 Hotel at Capel Curig, 176. 
 Victoria Inn at Tregaron, 202. 
 Red Lion Inn, Pontrhydvendigaid, 
 
 200, 211. 
 
 Gogerd dan Arms, Aberystwith, 18. 
 Inn at Penmorfa, 99. 
 White Lion Hotel, Bala, 232. 
 Bull's Head Inn, Bala, 232. 
 
 MWYNGIL, 2, 4. 
 Llyn-y-Cae, 4, 8, 18. 
 Llyn-y-Gader, 17. 
 Llyn-y-Gafr, 17. 
 Llyn Aren, 17. 
 Llwybyr Cadnaw, 17. 
 Llanbrynmair, 21. 
 Llyn Bugeilyn, 21. 
 Llyn Bugeilyn, Extraordinary sport 
 
 at, 24. 
 
 Llyn Penrhaiadr, 21, 25. 
 Llyn Cregenan, 28. 
 Llaith Nant, 33. 
 Llanbedr, 35, 41. 
 Llyn Tecwyn Uchaf, 36, 40. 
 Llyn Tecwyn Isaf, 36, 40. 
 Llyn Vedw, 36, 39. 
 Llyn Eiddew Mawr, 36, 37. 
 Llyn Eiddew Vach, 36, 38. 
 Llyn Caerwych, 36, 38. 
 Llyn Lennerch, 36, 40. 
 Llyn Dywarchen, 37, 40. 
 Llyn Cwm Bychan, 42, 43. 
 Llyn Pryved, 42, 44. 
 Llyn Prefeddau, 42, 48, 49. 
 Llyn Cwm Howel, 42, 48, 49. 
 Llyn Ybi, 42, 48, 50. 
 Llyn Du, 48. 
 Llyn Irddyn, 42, 52, 56. 
 Llyn Bodlyn, 42, 54. 
 Llyn Dulyn, 42, 54. 
 Llyn Twr Glas, 44. . 
 Llyn Cwellyn, 63, 101, 105.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 253 
 
 Llyn Conwy, 63. 
 
 Llyn Tegid, 17, 33, 162, 233, 234. 
 
 Llyn Gwynant, 66. 
 
 Llyn-y-Ddinas, 70. 
 
 Llyn-y-Gader, Caernarvonshire, 71. 
 
 Llyn Ffynnon Gwas, 74. 
 
 Llyn Coch, 74, 76. 
 
 Llyn Ffynnon Las, 74, 77. 
 
 Llyn-y-Nadroed, 74, 77. 
 
 Llyn Llagi, 78, 83. 
 
 Llyn-yr-Adar, 78, 83. 
 
 Llyn Edno, 78, 80, 81. 
 
 Llyn Own, 80. 
 
 Uyn Dywarchen, Caernarvonshire, 
 
 111. ' 
 
 Llynniau Nantllef, 112, 113. 
 Llyfni River, 112. 
 Llyfni, Vale of, 112. 
 Lake Fishing, Hints on, 116. 
 Llanael-haiarn, 123. 
 Llyn Idwal, 131, 186, 190. 
 Llynniau Duwaunedd, 131, 179. 
 Llyn Cwm Dwythwch, 132, 166. 
 Llyn Cwm Ffynnon, 137, 144. 
 Llyn Llydaw, 138, 142. 
 Llyn Teyrn, 139. 
 Llanberis, Pass of, 161. 
 Llyn Peris, 162. 
 Llyn Padarn, 162. 
 Llanberis, 164. 
 Llyn-du-yr-Arddudwy, 166. 
 Llyn Peris Copper Mine, 167. 
 Llynniau Mymbyr, 178. 
 Llyn Ffynnon Llugwy, 181, 182. 
 Llyn Ffynnon Lloer, 184. 
 Llyn Ogwen, 185, 194. 
 Llyn-y-Cwn, 187, 189. 
 Llyn Berwyn, 203. 
 Llanddewi Brevi, 208, 217. 
 Lakes in the Harleeh District, 36. 
 Llyn Vedw, Novel contrivance of 
 
 catching fish at, 39. 
 Lakes near Llanbedr, 43. 
 Haw Llech, 61. 
 Llanbedr, Routes to, 69. 
 Llyn Gwynant, Sport at, 68. 
 Llyn Cwn, Monster tront in, 80. 
 Llyn Llagi, Accidents at, 83. 
 Llyn Llydaw, Singular incident at, 
 
 141. 
 
 Llanberis, Botany of, 166. 
 Legend of Prince Jdwal, 187. 
 Llyn Ogwen, Sport at, 195. 
 Llyn Teifl, 199. 
 Llyn Egnant, 199. 
 Llyn Berwyn, Sport at, 205. 
 Lakes of Cardiganshire, 225. 
 Lyn Teifi, 227. 
 Llyn Hir, 227. 
 Llyn Egnant, 228. 
 Llyn Gorlan, 228. 
 Llyn Gynon, 228. 
 Llyn Gorast, 229. 
 
 Llynniau Fyrddin Vawrand Vach, 229. 
 Llyn Crugnant, 229. 
 Llyn Du, Cardiganshire, 229. 
 
 Legends, 230. 
 
 Loventium, 231. 
 
 Llyn Tegid, Angling on, 235. 
 
 Llyn Arenig Vawr, 236, 239. 
 
 Llyn Arenig Vawr, Routes to, 237. 
 
 Llyn Arenig Vach, 237. 
 
 Llyn Arenig Vach, Sport at, 237. 
 
 Llyn Tryweryn, 241 
 
 MOELFRE, 52. 
 Minffordd, 3. 
 Machynlleth, 20. 
 Mallwyd, 29, 31. 
 Mpel Goedog, 37, 39. 
 Mines, Destructive effects on fish, 62. 
 Moel Hebog, 64, 89. 
 Moelwyn, 96. 
 Mynydd Mawr, 104, 108. 
 Moel-y-Wyddfa, 148, 159. 
 Monocular Fish, 189. 
 Monastic communities in Wales, 212. 
 Maes Llyn, 216. 
 Mynydd Tal-y-Mignedd, 99. 
 Mountain Enthusiast, Description of 
 a, 143. 
 
 NANT GWYNANT, 69, 82. 
 
 Nant Mill, 102. 
 
 Nant Gwrtheyrn, 126. 
 
 Nant-y-Gwryd, 129, 145. 
 
 Nant Ffrancon, 193, 196. 
 
 Nant Glassffrwd, 215. 
 
 Nant Gwrtheyrn, Storm in, 127. 
 
 OOWEN TROUT, 194. 
 
 PIBTYLL-Y-LLYN, 26. 
 
 Penllyn Pool, 29. 
 
 Pen-y-Ddinas, 57. 
 
 Penmachno, 63. 
 
 Pen-y-Gwryd, 68, 130, 143. 
 
 Pitt's Head, 71. 
 
 Pont Aberglaslyn, 86. 
 
 Pass of Beddgelert, 86. 
 
 Porthmadoc, 98. 
 
 Penmorfa, 99. 
 
 Plas-yn-y-Nant, 103. 
 
 Pass of Llanberis, 132, 139, 161. 
 
 Pont Trecefel, 202. 
 
 Pont Bren, 210. 
 
 Pontrhydvendigaid, 200, 211. 
 
 Pontrhydvendigaid, Guides at, 230. 
 
 Pen-y-Gwryd, Attractions at, 131. 
 
 Pont-y-Monach, 210. 
 
 Pont Ystwith, 210. 
 
 Pont-ar-Gelyn, 238. 
 
 RHINOG VAWR, 46. 
 
 Rhinog Vach, 49. 
 
 River'Fishing at Beddgelert, 85, 87. 
 
 Rhaiadr Cwm Dyli, 85, 131. 
 
 Rebecca, 219, 224. 
 
 Rebecca Riots, Account of, 220. 
 
 Rhyd-y-Fen, 239. 
 
 SABN BADRIG, Hazardous exploit, 55.
 
 254 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Sandpipers, 46. 
 
 Salmon, Singular method of catching, 
 
 89. 
 
 Salmon Fishing at Porthmadoc, 98. 
 Salmon and Trout Fishing on the 
 
 Teifl, 201. 
 Salmon Paste, 208. 
 
 Strata Florida, Abbey of, 211, 213, 214. 
 Snowdon, 147. 
 
 Snowdon, Sermon on summit of, 149. 
 Snowdon, Ascents to, 149. 
 Snowdon, Expenses of ascents to, 151. 
 Snowdon, Warner's account of his 
 
 ascent to, J53. 
 Snowdon, Singular prospect from 
 
 summit of, 159. 
 
 TROUT FISHING at Tal-y-Llyn, 6. 
 
 Tal-y-Llyn, Vale of, 1. 
 
 Tal-y-Llyn, Routes to, 19. 
 
 Tyn-y-CorneL, 3. 
 
 Twymin River, 21. 
 
 Towyn, 27. 
 
 Travelling in Wales, 61, 196, 197. 
 
 Trefriw, 63. 
 
 Traeth Mawr, 86. 
 
 Tremadoc, 97. 
 
 Tre'r-Ceiri, 125. 
 
 Trifaen, 135. 
 
 Twll Du, 187, 188. 
 
 Tour through North Wales, 198. 
 
 Teifl River, 199, 206, 216. 
 
 Tregaron, 202. 
 
 Teifl Fishing, 206. 
 
 Trout, Singular capture of a, 205. 
 
 Trout, Extraordinary rise at Llyn Du, 
 
 48. 
 
 Trout in Scotch lakes, 190. 
 Teifl, Scenery on the banks of, 200. 
 Teifl, Medwin's description of marshes, 
 
 206, 207. 
 Teifl Lakes, 226. 
 Tregaron, Guide at, 230. 
 Tomen-y-Bala, 233. 
 Twrch River, 240. 
 Tryweryn River, 241. 
 
 VORTIGERN'S GRAVE, 125. 
 
 WELCH SHEEP, 218. 
 Wales, Great desert of, 218 
 
 Y FONLLEF HIR. 37. 
 
 Y Lliwed, 67. 
 
 Ystradllyn, 83. 
 
 Yr Eifl, 120, 123, 127 
 
 Y-Waen Oer, 136. 
 
 Ynys Hettws, 167. 
 
 Ysgdlion Duon, 181. 
 
 Yews, Enormous, at Mallwyd, 30 
 
 Ysgethin Brook, 52. 
 
 Ystrad Flur, 199, 213, 215. 
 
 Ystrad Ffyn, 217. 
 
 Y Gorls Wyd, Source of the Dee, 240. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 LONDON 
 
 PRINTED BY R. CLAY, 
 BREAD STREET HILL.
 
 THE 
 BOOK OF SOUTH WALES, 
 
 THE BEISTOL CHANNEL, 
 
 MONMOUTHSHIEE, AND THE WYE. 
 BY CHAELES FREDERICK CLIFFE. 
 
 THIRD EDITION. 
 WITH MAPS AND ENGEAV1NGS. 
 
 The following are Selections from various favourable Noticet. 
 
 "This publication is not a guide made out of other guide-books, repeating 
 their errors, and erroneous in many of their truths, which time has changed. 
 ' The Book of South Wales ' is the result of many years' observation, made 
 during excursions through the country, and of that attention to statistics, local 
 improvements, and other symptoms of the march of mechanics, which necessity 
 forces upon a publicist. Mr. Cliffe, besides being an admirer of Nature and an 
 active-minded man, is also a pedestrian and an angler. A love of the pictur- 
 esque and of the 'gentle craft' has carried him into remote places of wild 
 grandeur or beauty, little frequented even by the Welsh themselves. Besides 
 dry land, Mr. Cliffe has explored the waters, and delineates the coast as it is 
 seen either by land or sea, from Bristol to Aberystwith : nor have the manners 
 of the people escaped him ; or the ruins and archaeology of the country. In 
 short, he is master of his subject, not only from books, but experiment. We 
 know not whether Mr. Cliffe is a Welshman, but he deserves well of the Princi- 
 pality for his ' Book of South Wales.' " Spectator. 
 
 " This is one of the very best guide-books we have met with ; but it is more 
 than a guide-book. ... It is written, too, in a spirit of good taste and good 
 feeling rare in works of this nature." Archceologia Cambrensis. 
 
 " We speak within bounds when we say that it is incomparably the best local 
 guide-book with which we are acquainted and our knowledge of such publica- 
 tions is somewhat extensive. ' The Book of South Wales ' has, however, a 
 higher character than this, for it has a statistical, historical, and archaeological 
 value, which will cause it to find its way to numerous libraries, in addition to 
 those of the district to which it refers." Bath Chronicle. 
 
 " One of the best local guides we have seen in England." Chamber f Edin- 
 Irurgh Journal. 
 
 " The great charm of the book is its vivid truthfulness the transfusion of the 
 mind's impression upon paper, as one might almost say, at the very spot. Mr. 
 Cliffe is a poet, and an ardent admirer of Nature. To be a poet it is not always 
 necessary to write verses ; there is as much poetry in prose as in verse, when a 
 real poet sets to work upon his ideas. The enthusiasm of our author bursts out 
 in snatches of writing which would do no discredit to Washington Irving or 
 Dickens ; his descriptive style is, indeed, a combination of both the pictur- 
 esque power and finish of the former, with the grasp of detail and realization of 
 the latter." Monmouthshire Beacon. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. PATERNOSTER HOW. 
 BRISTOL: OLDLAND AND MAY.
 
 g sum 
 THE BOOK OF NOKTH WALES. 
 
 SECOND EDITION. 
 
 WITH A FIRST-RATE MAP, AND ENGRAVINGS, 
 BY GILES AND HANLON. 
 
 The following are Selections from numerous Notices of the Worlc. 
 
 " The chief excellency in ' The Book of North Wales ' is its complete accuracy 
 of information as regards scenery, and all matters interesting to a tourist. The 
 author has trodden every inch of the ground himself, has seen with his own 
 eyes, has gathered facts with his own ears ; hence, he may be relied upon as to 
 distances, advice, inns, &c. Hence, also, every now and then, in the midst of 
 dry statistical detail, you meet with snatches of poetical genius and graphic 
 powers of description, and enthusiastic touches, suggested by time-worn asso- 
 ciations, or the appearance of Nature on the spot : you feel, if you take the 
 book in your hand, you are certain to enter into every sentence and idea 
 expressed by the author. Such is the advantage of having an honest, original 
 writer of a guide-book ; not a pretender, nor one who jots down by hearsay. 
 We recommend Mr. Clifl'e's as the most perfect model we have ever seen of this 
 class of books." John Bull. 
 
 " Mr, Cliffe is already well known to the public by his ' Book of South Wales,' 
 the best guide-book to that portion of the Principality. To this he has now 
 added another, devoted to the other half, and called the "' Book of North Wales.' 
 Clearly arranged, and full of every sort of practical information, gleaned from 
 all available sources, and condensed and corrected by means of intimate 
 personal acquaintance with the country, it is a really working hand-book for 
 the district. Tradition and antiquities have not been neglected, and give the 
 book a certain interest and dignity. There are views of some of the most 
 striking scenes ; and the value of it is enhanced by a clear and useful map." 
 Guardian. 
 
 "Mr. Cliffe's intelligent pen has, in this work, completed 'the Principality,' 
 and produced one of the best, if not the very best, because the most rational, 
 guide-book of Wales extant in the English language. Every point of beauty and 
 antiquarian interest is seen with the eye of the painter and the feeling of the 
 true archaeologist. In every respect this book supplies a want which has beea 
 long felt." Observer. 
 
 "The success that has attended Mr. Cliffe's original 'Guide to South Wales' 
 has led to the publication of the present volume, which is distinguished by the 
 same characteristics as its predecessor. The publication is not a ' book made 
 from other books,' but the accumulation of actual knowledge and experience. 
 Mr. Cliffe describes what he has seen, tells what he knows, and gives that prac- 
 tical advice which saves both time and money. The person who is tempted by 
 the facilities offered by railways to visit the Principality, with its mountains and 
 its romantic coasts, must provide himself with this ' Book of North Wales.' " 
 Spectator. 
 
 " The inhabitants of the Principality are assuredly under a debt of obligation 
 to Mr. Cliffe for the zeal, ability, and freshness of feeling which he has brought 
 to bear upon a description of the many objects of beauty and interest with 
 which it abounds, and for supplying tourists thither with carefully-prepared and 
 informing hand-books for their guidance." Midland Counties Herald. 
 
 " Mr. Cliffe, in his 'Book of North Wales,' is a triton among the minnows ; 
 as in his ' Book of South Wales ' he struck out a new course, and showed the 
 world how guide-books might be written with minute accuracy of detail, and yet 
 with the glow of a poet and painter, and with the enthusiasm of a poet. In his 
 'Book of North Wales,' now before us, he has poured into its pages a perfect 
 flood of information of every description, and has provided for the tourist's 
 every possible want, whether he be in search of the picturesque, or a botanist, 
 or an antiquary, or a sketcher ; he has, at the same time, thrown in dashes of 
 eloquence and true poetry, and has cast over his whole work a charm which 
 none but an exquisitely-refined and tasteful mind could have accomplished." 
 Monmouthshire Beacon. 
 
 LONDON : HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO. PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 BRISTOL : OLDLAND AND MAY.
 
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