flMBkES 117 dv pPkES ^ f(uSSELl fof{BES LIBRARY THE UNIVERSITY OE CALIEORNIA SANTA BARBARA GIFT OF MRS. BRUCE C. HOPPER X lRambles in Naples, J^u j^rchitological anb ^iistovical ©uibc MUSEUMS, GALLERIES, VILLAS, CHURCHES, AND ANTIQUITIES OF NAPLES AND ITS ENVIRONS. Py S. RUSSELL FORBES, PH.D., Archreological and Historical Lecturer on Roman Antiquities ; Author of " Ra/nbies in Rorne," " The Footsteps 0/ Si. Paul in Rome, " The Holy City— Jerusalem" Etc. jFouRTH Edition, Enlarged, With Maps, Plans, and Illustrations. T. NELSON AND SONS, PATERNOSTER ROW. EDINBURGH; AND NEW YORK. ROME: S. R. FORBES, 93 VIA BABUINO. NAPLES: F. FURCHHEIM, Bookseller, 59 PI.AZZA DEI MARTIRI. 1893. Entered at Stationers Hall, London, and Registered in accordance with the req-uiretnents of the Italian Law. All Rights Resenied. 3^vcfacc. This little work is offered to the public as the result of excursions actually carried out by the author, that others may benefit by his experience. The want of a practical, handy, reliable guide has been long felt by visitors to Naples ; and this is offered as a companion to our popular "Eambles in Rome." In this, the same system luis been adopted : thus those visitors who make a long stay in this delightful neighbourhood can divide the Eambles to suit their convenience, and those who make a shorter visit can select the things most likely to interest them. S. R. F. Naples, October 1892. ist of Tllucitralious. VIEW OF NAPLES FROM VIRGIL's TOMB MONTE CASSINO, PLAN OF GROUND FLOOR OF NATIONAL MUSEUM CAVi; CANEM, BREAD FOUND AT POMPEII, FOUNTAIN IN THE VILLA NAZIONALE, MAP OF POMPEII, SKETCH MAP OF THE REGIONI OF POMPEII, PLASTER CAST OF HUMAN BODY, TEMPLE OF VENUS, . . THE FORUM, TEMPLE OF JUPITER, TRIANGULAR FORUM AND TEMPLE OF HERCULES THE AMPHITHEATRE, POMPEII, CAMPANI VICTORIA, .. PUBLIC BATHS AT POMPEII, THE TEPIDARIUM, THE CALIDAKIUM, THE FRIGIDARIUM, . . HOUSE OF THE TRAGIC POET, PLAN OF THE HOUSE OF PANSA, STREET OF 8ALLUST, GATE OF HERCULANEUM, POMPEII, Frontispiece 3 11 12 26 41 45 53 54 65 57 59 Gl 65 66 70 71 72 73 75 76 77 78 Vlll LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. STEEET OF TOMBS, VILLA OF DIOMEDES, STREET OF THE BALCONY, VESUVIUS BEFORE THE FIRST ERUPTION, VESUVIUS IN ERUPTION, THE GROTTO OF POSILIPO, MOLE OF PUTEOLI, TEMPLE OF SERAPIS, BAY OF BAI^, ISLAND OF CAPRI, THE BLUE GROTTO, .. SORRENTO, .. CASTELLAMARE DI STABIA, AMALFI, TEMPLE OF CERES, P^STUM TEMPLE OF NEPTUNE, P^STUM, PLAN OF P^STUM, 80 82 85 91 93 99 102 105 112 119 121 123 125 127 129 131 132 MAPS. NAPLES, POMPEII, ENVIRONS, betiveen pages 6, 7 . . 53, 54 134, 135 @ ontcnte. ROME TO NAPLES. THE KOUTE— RAILWAYS FROM NAPLES RAMBLE I. NAPLES — CASTELLO DELL' OVO — QUAY OF S. LUCIA — PIAZZA DEL PLEBISCITO— CHURCH OK S. FRANCESCO DI PAOLA — ROYAL PALACE — VIA ROMA— PIAZZA PANTE— NA- TIONAL MUSEUM — VILLA CAPODIMONTE— CHURCH OF S. OENNARO— CATACOMBS — GESU NUOVO— S. CHIARA— S. DOMENICO MAGQIORE— LA OAPPELLA DI S. SEVERO — S. ANNA DE' LOMBARDI — l'INCORONATA — PALAZZO FONDI — NEAPOLITAN LIFE 7-31 RAMBLE IL PIAZZA DEI MARTIRI— THEATRE OF S. CARLO— PIAZZA DEL MUNICIPIO— CHURCH OF S. GIACOMO DEOLt SPAGNUOLI — FONTANA MEDINA — CASTEL NUOVO — TRIUMPHAL ARCH— CHURCH OF S. BARBARA — PORTA DEL CARMINE — S. MARIA DEL CARMINE — PIAZZA DEL MERCATO — CORSO GARIBALDI — PORTA CAPUANA — THE CEMETERIES — CASTEL CAPUANO — SS. APOSTOLI — S. PAOLO MAGGIORE, TEMPLE OF CASTOR AND POLLUX— THEATRE — S. LORENZO, BASILICA AUGUSTALIS — THE CATHEDRAL OF S. JANUARIUS, TEMPLE OF NEPTUNE — S. RESTITUTA, TEMPLE OF APOLLO — ASCIEXT THEATRE (?)—S. MARTINO — CASTEL S. ELMO — CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE — THE INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL— VIRGIL'S TOMB— RIVIERA DI CUIAJA — VILLA NAZIO- NALE— THE AQUARIUM— IMPROVEMENTS 32-42 RAMBLE III. TORRE DEL ORECO — TORRE DELL* ANNUNZI ATA— POMPEII — HISTORICAL NOTICES — THE DESTRUCTION OF POMPEII — SYNOPSIS OP RAMBLE — IMPRESSIONS — CAMALDOLI 43-87 CONTENTS. RAMBLE IV. PORTICI — RESINA — VESUVIUS : HOW TO GET THERE ; AND USEFUL HINTS — HISTORICAL KOTICES— HERCULANEUM— LA FAVORITA 88-97 RAMBLE V. GROTTO OF POSILIPO — GROTTA DI CANE— LAGO d'AGNANO— ASTEONI — SOLFATARA — pozzuoLi— Paul's landing-place — bridge of caligula — temples of serapis, NEPTUNE, AND THE NYMPHS — CICERo'S VILLA — THEATRE — AMPHITHEATKE — MONTE NUOVO — ARCO FELICE — CUM^ — GROTTO OF THE SIBYL — GROTTA DELLA PACE — LAKES AVERNUS AND LUCRINUS — TEMPLE OF APOLLO — GROTTA d'aVERNO —VIA HERCULEA — STUFF DI TRITONI — BATHS OF NERO — BAI^E— TEMPLES OF DIANA, VENUS, AND MERCURY — LAKE FUSARO — AGRIPPINA'S TOMB — BACOLI — VILLA BAULI — CENTO CAMERELLE — PISCINA MIRABILIS — CAPO MISENO — ELYSIAN FIELDS— ISLAND OF NISIDA — GROTTO OF SEJANUS — VILLAS OF POLLIO AND LUC0LLUS — SCHOOL OF VIRGIL 98-117 RAMBLE VI. ISLAND OF CAPRI — HISTORICAL NOTICES — BLUE GROTTO — VILLAS OF TIBERIUS — SOR- RENTO— CASTELLAMARE — VIETRI—AMALFI— SALERNO— PiBSTUM 118-134 VISITOR'S NEAPOLITAN DIRECTORY. ARTISTS — BATHS— BANKERS — CARRIAGE FARES- CHEMISTS— CHURCHES (pROTESTANT) — CLUBS — CONSULATES — DINING-ROOMS, RESTAURANTS — DOCTORS — HOTELS— LI- BRARIES AND BOOKSELLERS — MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES — MUSIC — NAVIGATION — OMNIBUSES AND TRAMWAYS — ORDERS REQUIRED, AND WHERE OBTAIN- ABLE 135-141 NAPLES: HOW TO SEE IT, So many visitors ask us to fiiniisli them witli an itinerary for seeing tlie principal objects in Naples and its neighbourhood in a few days, that we present the following, which we have often executed, and so know that it is practical. Leave Rome hy mid-day express, arriving in Naples in time for dinner. Tale the omnibus to the liotel. FIRST DAY. Visit the Museum at 9 a.m. Lunch at the restaurant in the Galleria Principe di Napoli, opposite, at 12.30. After hmch, take a cab to the station, in time for the 2 o'clock express for Pompeii, with a return ticket. After seeing the ruined city, return to Naples by the even- ing train. Book places for the ascent of Vesuvius for the morrow at Cook's Office, Piazza dei Martiri. SECOND DAY. Carriage and fmiicular-rail excursion to the sunnnit of Vesuvius , or, make the excursion by carriage to Pozzuoli and Baioe. THIRD DAY. Steamboat excursion on the Bay of Naples to Capri. Visit the Blue Grotto, and, after lunch, take the steamer to Sorrento ; land there, and take a carriage to Casteliamare, by the celebi'ated road; thence by rail to Naples. FOURTH DAY. A carriage drive through the Via Roma up to the Cluu'ch and Museum of S. Martino; hence along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, noted for its splendid views, to the Grotto of Posilipo and Virgil's Tomb, returning to the hotel at 1 o'clock to dine. Leave in time for the afternoon fast express to Rome. Xll USEFUL HINTS, ETC. USEFUL HINTS. On arrival, look sharply after your personal luggage, and get as quickly as possible into the omnibus of the hotel you have selected ; then give the ticket of your registered baggage to the hotel porter, who will get it without your troubling. If you take a cab to the hotel, I'efuse to proceed if a stranger mounts the box. '■'• Have him down!" or you will have to pay a commission. Pay no attention to touters at the railway. Take lunch in the middle of the day. If you get into a heat, do not go into the shade or into a building till you have cooled down. On inhaling a bad odour, if the stomach is empty, fcike a nip of Ijrandy, medicinally. Do not over-fatigue yourself. THE NEW WATER SUPPLY TO NAPLES. On May 10, 1885, King Humbert inaugurated the new water sup- ply to the city of Naples, which has done more to improve the sani- tary condition of Naples than anything else. The sources are fifty miles from Naples, about a quarter of a mile from the Serino station on the railway between Naples and Avellino, at the fountains of Acquaro, Pelosi, Acquarolo, and Urcinolo, on the right of the Sabatto stream, covering a watei'shed of 40,000 square metres. From here receiving channels take the water to a central reservoir .323 metres above the sea, hence it is conducted to Cancello, and then to the reservoirs at Capodimonte. From thei'e two channels take the water to the bottom of the Riviera di Chiaja, and three others supply the high parts of the city. The supjDly is two cubic metres every two seconds, the flow being 1 m. 20 c. per second : 20,000 cubic metres being sent to the high parts of the city, and 80,000 to the lower parts daily. His Majesty, on inspecting the works for the new water supply, said, "This work is worthy of the ancient Eomans, and has exceeded my expectations." The water is very 2)ure and abundant, so that a long-standing reproach is now removed. MAPS OF NAPLES AND POMPEIL The numbers after our titles refer to the numbers on the maps, which show the exact location of the principal places of interest. (16) ROME TO NAPLES. THE ROUTE. A FEW notes on the route to Naples may not be unaccei^table to our readers. We will presume that, being comfortably seated in the car, facing the engine, the train steams out of the Roman station, clear of which, on the I'ight, are the remains of the Baths of Gallienus; we tlien shoot through the walls of Aurelian, and get a glimpse of the Porta Maggiore and the Baker's Tomb on the right. We then pass the junction of the Florence line on our left and the Pisa line on our right. On the left we get a peep of a picturesque piece of the Aqua Hadriana Aqueduct, covered with ivy and weeds, spanning the val- ley at right angles to the railway ; and we pass the Albano rail. Then we run for some distance parallel with the Acqua Felice Aqueduct, and notice portions of the old Claudian Aqueduct, built of stone, with the bi'ick specus of the Anio Novns on the top of it. At a short distance, parallel with it, is a jjiece of the Aqua Marcia, with the Tepula and Julia on the top. We cross the Frascati Road at Porta Furba, and on the left is Monte Grano, where the sculp- tured sarcophagus of the Capitoline Museum was found, and in it the Portland vase. Beyond, on the right, is the medieval Tor Fiscali, in the line of the Aqueduct. We here run parallel with the Felice Aqueduct, and, passing under it, trace the line of the Appian Way agaiust the sky, on our right ; on our left is a tine long stretch of the Aqua Claudia, with some of its arches strengthened with the brick- work of Hadrian. On the left are the extensive ruins of the Villa of Septimius Bassua (once a villa belonging to the Emperor Hadrian), the Sabine Hill.'^, (le) ^ 1 a BOME TO NAPLES. and Tivoli ; whilst more to the front are Frascati and the Alban Hills. We run through Ciampino junction, where the line branches to the left, north of the Frascati line, the old Naples line running off to the right: that is now the Velletri-Terracina line. To the right is a fine view of Castel Gandolpho ; then passing a twelfth cen- tury tower, we obtain an extensive view of Marino, Monte Cavo, and Eocca di Papa ; and on the left, of the Campagna, Rome and its dome. We now run through a bed of lava, and see, to the right, the ruins of Borghetto, an extensive tenth century castle of the Savelli, on the Latin Way. Frascati then comes into the view, and we run through another lava bed. Below, on the left, is the drained basin of Lake Regillus, where Castor and Pollux fought for Rome. Tusculum occupies the ridge of the hill behind Frascati ; beyond is Monte Porzio, so named from Cato the censor. Above is Monte Comprati. We then pass under Colonna, from which the princely house of Colonna derives its name. It represents the ancient city of Labicum, whose ruins are at / Quadroni. Strabo says it was fifteen miles from Rome, "now a small village possessed by a private individual. An ancient city now in ruins, situated on an eminence " (v. iii. 9). Cicero {pro Plane, ix.) alludes to its decayed state. Pass- ing through a tunnel, the last town on the Alban Hills is Rocca Priora, which is situated on a lofty summit. To our left is an ex- tensive view of the mountains of the Hernici. The next station is Zagarola, the ancient Scaptia. Here Gregory XIV. held the con- ference to revise the Vulgate edition of the Bible. Away to the left is Palestrina, the ancient Praeneste, one of the earliest of the Italo-Greek cities. It was celebrated for its Temple of Fortune — Carneades the philosopher declaring that the most fortunate Fortune that lie had seen was that of Prseneste. Its site is now occupied by the Barberini Palace. The arx was on the top of the mountain above the town, 2,512 feet above the sea, and is now a hamlet called the Castel San Pietro, because it is said that S. Peter once dwelt there. Passing through a tunnel, we have some woods on the right, and then pass under the village of Labico. It is at the junction of the Labican and Latin Ways, which Strabo says was at Pictae Tabernse, twenty-eight miles from Rome. The railway now passes by Val- montone, with its vast palace of the Doria family, and issuing from a tunnel, we get a fine view of the town of Paliano, in front to the left, once an important Papal frontier fortress. It dates from the tenth century. On our right are the Volscian Alps. We pass through a short tunnel, and on our left have the ruined twelfth 4 ROME TO NAPLES. century tower and walls of Piombinara ; and we join the old Naples line at Segni station, which town is on a spur of the Volscian hills to the right, three and a half miles from the station. The town is 2,200 feet above the sea, and preserves a considerable extent of its massive polygonal walls, with its gates formed by converging blocks of stone, which support an architrave above. Following the course of the Sacco, we pass medieval towers and Garvignano, on the right ; Anagni station ; then that of Sgurgola, with its medieval castle and walls, on the right. Here we skirt the base of the Volscian Alps, and passing Morolo, on the right, we enter the plain of the Tolero, past Fercntino (the Ferentinum of the Vol- scians, afterwards of the Hernici), which still retains its old walls The next stoppage is at Frosinone (the ancient Frusino) ; the Ceccano, with its fine stone bridge and palace, on the right ; and beyond, on the left, the villages of Poti and Arnara ; with Castro, on the right, to Ceprano station (where we stop for lunch), on the Liris. A fine view can be had from the station of the valley of the Liris and Garig- liano and the hills beyond, on which are the towns of Rocca d'Arce, S. Giovanni, Banco, Veroli, and Alatri. Opposite the station is the village of Falvaterra. All this beautiful country was devastated by Hannibal. Proceeding, we cross the Liris, having Monte Dpi on the left, and pass Isoletta station ; then, on the right, S. Giovanni in Carico and Pico Farnese, to Roccasecca, to the left ; Palazzuolo, Piedimonte, and Monte Cassino in the distance. We arrive at Aquino, on the right (the ancient Aquinum), birth-place of Juvenal, Pescennius Niger, and S. Thomas Aquinas. " Farewell, then, and forget me not ; and whenever Rome shall restore you to your native Aquinum, eager to refresh your strength, then you may tear me away too from Cumte to Helvine Ceres, and your patron deity, Diana" (Juvenal, Sat. iii. 318). Passing Pontecorvo, on the Liris, and winding round the base of Monte Cassino, past the ruins of the amphitheatre (erected by Nu- midia Quadratilla), we come to S. Germane, above which, on the top of a lofty hill, is the Monastery of Monte Cassino (Cassino station), belonging to the Benedictines, founded by S. Benedict in .529, on the site of the Temple of Apollo. It is an extensive establishment, and has a very imposing appearance. The church is one of the most highly decorated in Italy ; and its library enjoys a world-wide cebbrity. It well repays a visit. Varro had a villa here, which was the scene of some of the revellings of Mark Antony. (See Cicero, 2 Philippic, 40.) ROME TO NAPLES. 5 Proceeding, we notice tlio fine view, and pass, on tlie left, Cervaro, S. Vittore, and S. Piotro in Fine ; then Rocca d'Evandro and Gola di Mignano, on the right ; entering tlie plain of the Volturno ; Pre- senzano, on the left, to Caianiello Vairano, by Eiardo ; on the left, Teano ; then Torre di Francolesi, on the right, to Sparanisi, where we get our first view of Vesuvius. A new line has been opened from here to Gaeta. Continuing our journey, Ave pass the ruined castle of Calvi and Pignataro station, where we enter the plain of Campagna Felice. "The region of Campania is the finest of all countries, not only in Italy, but in the whole world. Nothing can be softer than its air : indeed, it produces flowers twice a year. Nothing can be more fer- tile than its soil, and it is therefore said to have been an object of contention between Ceres and Bacchus. Nothing can be more hos- pitable than its shores, for on them are those noble harbours Gaeta, Misenum, and Baite (with its warm springs), as well as the Lakes Lucriniis and Avernus (places of retirement, as it were, for the sea). Here, too, are those vine-clad mountains Gaurus, Falernus, Massicus, and Vesiivius (the finest of all, the imitator of the fires of >.^tna). On the sea are the cities Formioe, Cumoe, Puteoli, Naples, Herculaneum, Pompeii ; and, the chief of all, Capua, which was formerly one of the three greatest cities of the world, IJome and Carthage being the others" (Florus, i. 16). Crossing the Volturno, we stop under the walls of Capua. Two miles beyond is S. Maria, on the site of ancient Capua, now noted for the ruins of its amphitheatre, onwards to Caserta (Casa-erta, "the dreary house"), the junction for Benevento and Foggia. From Caserta a new line has been made by Cancello, Ottajano, and Torre Annunziata to Castellamare, thus avoiding Naples. On the left is the celebrated palace of Vanvitelli, belonging to the King of Italy, and well Avorth visiting. The front is 780 feet long, and 125 feet high, having thirty-seven windows on each story. On the right is a fine avenue. We next pass Maddaloni station, with its medieval towers and castle, and the palace of the Carafas ; Cancello, beyond, with a ruined castle, the junction for Nola, Codola, A^^ellino, and Bene- vento, and our last stoppage. Proceeding through a fertile valley, we pass Acerra and Casal- nuovo, by the Acqua di Carmignano, and canals of Regi Lagni. We obtain a fine view of Mount Vesuvius and the white walls of the Observatory half-way up, on our left ; and the Castle of S. F.lmo on 6 HOME TO NAPLES. the hills to the right. We run into the Naples station — we liopo, after a pleasant journey. OTHER RAILWAY ROUTES FROM NAPLES. Central Station.— Pompeii, Cava, Salerno, Battipagli, Potenza. Taranto, to Brindisi. Portici, Torre del Greco, Annunziata, Castellamare, to Gragnano. Poggioreale, Nola, to Bajano. Caserta, Benevento, to Foggia and Brindisi. Cancello, Nola, Avellino, to Benevento. Piazza Municipio. — Ottajano and S. Giuseppe round the north side of Vesuvius. Porta Capua to A versa. Porta Capua to Calvano. Monte Santo. — Pozzuoli, Baise, and Torregaveta ; hence steamers run to Procida and Ischia. Funicular rail to the Vomero, close by S. Elmo. Chiaia. — Funicular rail by the Corso Vittorio Emanuele to the Vomeio. Jolia BanLcXom«w t Ca EAMBLES IN NAPLES. RAMBLE I, NAPLES — CASTELLO DELL' OVO — QUAY OF S. LUCIA— PIAZZA DEL PLEBISCITO — CHURCH OF 8. FKANCESCO DI PAOLA — ROYAL PALACE — VIA ROMA — PIAZZA DANTE— NA- TIONAL MUSEUM — VILLA CAPODIMONTE — CHURCH OF S. GENKARO — CATACOMBS — GESU NUOVO — S. CHIARA — S. DOMENICO MAGGIORE — LA CAPPELLA DI S. SE- VER© — S. ANNA DE' LOMBARDI — L'INCOROXATA — PALAZZO FONDI — NEAPOLITAN LIFE NAPLES. " Vedi Napoli e poi mori ! " (See Naples, aud then die !) is the popu- lar saying ; but we would render it, " Before dying, see Naples ! " About one thousand years before Christ some Greek colonists from CumPB founded a settlement which they named Parthenope, from the Siren's tomb (Pliny, iii. 9) ; these being augmented by fresh arrivals, enlarged their city, calling the old part Palfeopolis, and the new part Neapolis. Both are now occupied by modern Naples. In a.v.c* 535 they were taken by the Eomana, and ever remained faithful, offering their treasm-e and arms against the Carthaginians (Livy, xxii. 32). Scenery is the enchantment of Naples, which lies stretched out on a beautiful bay sloping down to the shore on the amphitheatre of the hills. Nothing in the world surpasses it, and it always exceeds the imagination. At the back of the city the ]ieak of Capodiinoute * Ab urbe condita (From the building of the city— Rome— B.C. 753). 8 NAPLES. rises and tlirows its spur towards tlie sea, S. Elmo occupying the centre and Pizzofalcone the shore, dividing the town into two un- equal parts. PIZZOFALCONE was probably the site of the original settlement, and it was afterwards the site also of the Villa of Lucullus, where Romulus Augustulus, the last of the Roman emperors of the "West, died in a.d. 476. It is now the barracks of the Bersaglieri. THE ISLAND OP CASTELLO DELL' OVO lies off the spur of S. Elmo called Pizzofalcone. It was the Megaris of Pliny (iii. 12). The castle, now a prison, was founded in 1154. Following the road to the right {hack to the sea) or east of the Pizzofal- cone, xoe come to the QUAY OF S. LUCIA, ornamented with a fountain like a triumphal arch, with figures by Domenico d'Auria and Giovanni da Nola. It is the great resort of the Neapolitans upon /estos, where their picturesque costumes may be studied. A drink can be had for 5 centesimi at the sulphur spring ; and from the stalls /r^{«^' di mare can be eaten. Steamers leave here for Capri between 8 and 9 a.m. ; office, A. INfanzi & Co., Strada Pilioro. Tickets can be had at the landing-place. The Strada del Gigante tales us into the PIAZZA DEL PLEBISCITO, with its handsome colonnade. The municipality has erected a handsome fountain in the centre of the square in commemoration of the new water supply. The basin is 26 metres in diameter, and holds 270 cubic metres of water. A central jet throws water to the height of 45 metres ; this is surrounded by 380 minor jets, the whole throwing up 16,000 cubic metres of water per day, equal to 32,000 bottles. On the right is the Prefettura, 31 ; on the left the house of the commandant, 27, where permissions are obtained to visit the Castle of S. Elmo. In front is the CHURCH OF S. FRANCESCO DI PAOLA (11), after the Pantheon at Rome. Before it, on the right, is a statue of Charles III. ; and on the left, Ferdinand I. The church was erected in 1817-31, by the architect Bianchi di Lugano. The portico is formed with six Ionic columns, and the interior has thirty Corin- thian columns from Mondragone. The high altar is beautifully in- laid with jasper and lapis lazidi, its side columns being of Egyptian breccia, very rare. The opposite side of the square is occupied by the UAMBLK I. 9 ROYAL PALACE, / (Palazzo licalc,) designed by Fontana, the Roman architect. The fufade is 185 yards in length, and is three stories high. In the small enclosed garden in front is the statue of Italia. Appl>/ to the porter for permissions to visit the royal villas and palaces. Porter's fee, 50 centesimi; attendanf s fee, 1 lira. A grand staircase leads into the upper or royal apartments. It is formed of white marble, and is decorated with reliefs and statues, the rivers Ebro and Tagus occupying the foot. The rooms contain modern works of art and porcelain. In one room is a fine tapestry of the death of Admiral Coligny : his mute appeal is striking. From the garden terrace a fine view can be had of the Bay of Naples, looking seaward. Crossing the Piazza S. Ferdinando, the starting-place of the omni- hv^es and tramioai/s, tee reach the YIA. ROMA, (formerly Toledo,) the principal business street of Naples, and intersecting the city from south to north. At the Piazza della Carita, opposite the statue of Carlo Poerio, Strada Nuova jNIonteoliveto, a street on the right leads into the Piazza Mouteoliveto, where are the General Post and Telegraph Office, 62. To the left is the Monte Santo station for Poz- zuoli, BaicB, Cumae. Continuing up the Via Roma, we reach the PIAZZA DANTE, with Dante's monument, by Angelini and Solari, erected in 1872. Beyond is the circular entrance of the Liceo Ginnasiale Vittorio Emanuele or Circus. Its front is decorated with twenty-six statues, erected in 1857, by Naples, in honour of Charles III. : they represent his virtues. To the left is the Porta Alba, one of the medieval city gates, with its bronze statue of S. Gaetano, erected in 1632. Just beyond, on the right, is the GALLERIA PRINCIPE DI NAPOLI, a very handsome modern building, in which there are some very good shops, as in our arcades. The Caffe Restaurant Santangelo is a good place to lunch after seeing the Museum. The next block, also on the right, is the 10 NAPLES. NAPLES NATIONAL MUSEUM, (Musco Nazionalc,) Open {from November 1st to April 30th) from 10 a.m. till Jf. p.m.; from May 1st to October 31st, from 9 a.m. till 3 p.m. Entrance fee, 1 lira; children, half-price. Sundays, free. "Visitors will find it advantageous to visit the Museum at Naples before seeing Pompeii. They will appreciate the ruins more by see- ing first the objects they contained. It will require several visits to exhaust this valuable collection. We would advise at least two visits for the antiquities and another for the pictures. We here mention the principal objects. We do not hold ourselves responsible for changes that may be made in the numbers. This is so often done that we think it must be for the amusement of the guardians. They are now adopting the capital plan of placing the names on the subjects, which might be followed in other museums. THE GRAND VESTIBULE. In entering {right), Alexander Severus ; {left) Melpomene. From Pompey's Theatre. At the foot of the stairs two river gods. Right, Flora ; left, Genius of the Roman army. HALLS OF FRESCOES. Door immediately to right on entering Vestibule. We have here the most valuable of the wall paintings of ancient art from Pompeii and Herculaneum, representing mural decorations and mythological scenes ; occupying seven rooms and corridors. The second panel on the left is from the Temj^le of Isis, representing Roman galleys in full chase. Entering the main halls, we take the subjects on our right, and worh round the compartments till we gain the door again, the subjects being always on our right. 8940. Victory. 8946. A good half-figure of Psyche. 9110. Achil- les recognized by Ulysses amongst the maids of the Court of Lyco- medes, with whom he had hid to escape going to the siege of Troy. The same subject is represented on the sarcophagus in the Capitoline Museum. 9109. Charon and Achilles. 9105. The heralds of Aga- memnon demanding Briseis of Achilles : Patroclus is leading Briseis to the audience. From house of the tragic poet. 9088. A gii'l ar- ranging her hair. 9097. A girl in meditation. 9058. Paquius Pro- culus and his wife. Proculus was a baker, and chief magistrate of g ■-] D n GALLERY OF INSCRIPTIONS. 1' W CORRIDOR OF INSCRIPTIONS. O hi o < < ?5 2 O u Bi ^ c 9 w < 33 O o o o o a CO tc -»; •• H H »3 u 03 ( 03 &4 o CO ^ 1 i O o o a < cs o Q o o c S a o ■J. M 1 hJ O o o o P F^ 9 w 4 1 i P4 ^ 3 El ENTRANCE. » 1 1 1 1 M 03 1 ^ 4 03 z aj b) o u < ct; O i-i o oc iJI 8 H § o 73 ca s » g^ » M a o « o Q o O < o n O o CORRIDOR OF STATUES. 33 ^ .-/3 2 ^ m CO 03 6 M m ti! -!l S W U> ^ 50 03 o ^-"J > a s li, a < > Ch 12 NAPLES. Pompeii. 9059-71 represent .scenes in the Forum at Pompeii. In 9066 a boy is being " hoisted." 9043 and 9049. Scenes from the story of Theseus. We next enter the compartment of the CAVE CANEM. In the centre is a mosaic representing Love's conquest over Strength. On the right, 10018, 10014, 10012. Wall decorations. 12284. Black and white mosaic, representing the sea-gate at Pom- peii, with a vessel in port. 10004. The three Graces. 10007. The marriage of NejDtune and Amphitrite. 9037. "Cave canem." 10002. " Cave canem " (Beware of the dog). From the house of tlie tragic poet. " But while I was staring open- mouthed at all I saw before, I had liked to have fallen back- wards and broken my legs. For to the left, as we entered, not far from the porter's lodge, an enor- mous chained dog was painted on the wall, with an inscription over it in capital letters : beware of the dog " (Petronius Arbiter, v.). 10003. Dwarf feeding two game-cocks. Two columns in mosaic. 9997. Fish. The various kinds still taken in the Bay of Naples are here represented. In the centre is a fight between a crawfish and an octopus. The border of foliage, flowers, cupids, birds, and snails is very beautiful. 9998, 9999. Sea-bird. Columns of mosaic and shells. 9993. Cat attacking a chicken. 9991. The genius of Bacchus mounted on a panther. 9992. Parrots pluming themselves in a basin of water, watched by a cat, — a companion mosaic to the celebrated Pliny's doves in the Capitol. 9994. Wreath of leaves, flowers, and fruit. Windoio. 9990 (below). An allegorical representation of the Nile, 9978. A skeleton in mosaic, with a vase in each hand. Used to remind banqueters of the future. " In came a servant with a silver skeleton, so artfully put together that its joints and backbone turned every way. Having cast it a few times on the table, and made it assume various postures, Trimalchio cried out, — ' Vain as vanity are we, Life's swift transient flames decay ! What this is we soon shall be ; Then be merry whilst you may.' " Petkonius AEBlrEK, V. RAMBLE T. 13 It was an Egyptian custom (Herodotus, ii. 78 ; Pl^itaixli, in '" Cou- viv. Sapientes," vi.). 109982. Ancient Masonic mosaic. During the explorations of Pompeii in the year 1874 there was fount! a most beau- tiful piece of mosaic work, which, from its wonderful and uniijue forma- tion and workmanshiji, has caused much excitement. It is a mosaic table of square shape, and little more than a foot squai'e, fixed in a strong wooden frame, and has been placed in the National INIuseum at Naples. It served as the top of the pedestal in the Masonic lodge at Pompeii. The ground is of a gray-gieen stone, in the middle of which is a human skull, made of white, gray, and black coloui-s. In appearance the skull is quite natural, and the beauty of its execu- tion is such as to render it a model of anatomical precision and truth- fulness. The eyes, nostrils, teeth, ears, and coronal are all well exe- cuted. Above the skull is seen a level of coloured wood, the points being of brass ; and from the top point, by a white thread, is sus- pended a plumb-line. Below the skull is a wheel with six spokes, and on the upper rim of the wheel there is a butterfly, with wings of a red colour, edged with yellow ; the eyes ai-e of blue. The outline of the entire piece is symmetrical, so that the skull, wings, and wheel, through the proti-action of the iilumb-lines, become halved. Looking sideways, the objects correspond with each other. On the left is an upright spear, the bottom of which is of iron, resting on the ground ; from this there hangs, attached to a golden cord, a gar- ment of scarlet, also a purple robe, to which some signification may be surmised ; whilst the ujjper part of the spear is sun-ounded by a white braid of diamond pattern. To the right is a gnarled thorn stick, from which hangs a coarse, shaggy piece of cloth in yellow, gi-ay, and brown colours, which is tied with a ribbon; and above it is a leathern knapsack. Evidently this work of ai't, by its composi- tion, is mystical and symbolical ; at all events, it appears to have some reference to the royal craft, and as a proof of this hist supjio- sition it certainly has reference to some secret craft in the old Roman era. The antiquity of the origin of the K.K. (king's kraft, royal craft), and of the brotherhood, and its fellowship with ancient secrecy and mysteries, becomes at last certified by this wondrous piece of mosaic art, as acknowledged by affirmed known facts. 9986. A green- room. 9985. Actors: made by Dioskorides of Samos. 9987 is a companion. Re-entering the HALLS OF FRESCOES. 9010. The entry of the wooden horse into Troy. 9008. Story of 14 NAPLES. the liiud feeding Telep}ms. 8997, 8998. Perseus showing the head of Medusa, reflected in a brook, to Andromeda. 8991. Daedalus mur- dering his nephew Perdix, the inventor of the saw, chisel, compass, and letter's wheel. 8980. Atalanta and Meleager. 8976. Medea. 9111. Orestes and Pylades. 9112. Diana saves Iphigeuia from death by substituting a stag at the moment of sacrifice. This was probably a copy of the celebrated painting by the Greek artist Timanthes mentioned by Pliny (xxxv. 36) : " As to Timanthes, he was an artist highly gifted with genius, and loud have some of the orators been in their commendations of his Iphigenia, represented as she stands at the altar awaiting her doom. Ui^on the countenances of all present, that of her uncle in particular, grief was depicted; but having already exhausted all the characteristic features of sorrow, the artist adopted the device of veiling the features of the victim's father, Agamemnon, finding himself unable adequately to give expression to his feelings." Our thoughts naturally turn to the story of Abraham and Isaac in beholding this picture. Under the window are two cases containing ancient colours found at Pompeii. 8905. The worshijD of Ceres. 8898. Eurojie, Asia, and Africa. 8895. A fine head, crowned with a wreath. 8959. A sea-monster carrying off a Nereid : reminding us of the sculpture after Scopas, in the Vatican. 9118, 9119, 9121. Fauns dancing on the tight-rope. 8852-8855. Tritons. 9292, 9295, 9297, 9299. Bacchantes. 9278. Ariadne and Bacchus. 9256, 9257. Cupid, Venus, and Urania. 9248, 9249. Venus and Mars. 9301. Diana. 9560-9564, 109370. Six outline-paintings, in one colour, on marble, called monoci'omes ; unique. Painted by Alexander of Athens. 9558, 9559. Story of lo, Juno, and Jupiter. 9539, 9538. Apollo and Marsyas. 9519-9521. The days of the week. Compart- ments LXVII., LXVL, LXV. Landscapes. 9453-9457. Worship of Ceres. Compartments LXI., LXIL, LXIII. Landscapes. 9364- 9351. Etruscan frescoes. Compartment LVII. Cupids. 9236, 9231. The three Graces. 9202. Flora, Cupids, and Zephyrus. 9194. Two Cupids raising a May-pole ; another holds up a cross towards them. 9169, 9164. Seated Psyches and Cupids. 9180. "Woman selling Cupids. 9181. Head of Venus. 8819. A])ollo. We here re-enter the Corridor of Frescoes, and turn to the left, into the CORRIDOR OF INSCRIPTIONS. On the right, half-way down, are the statues of Tiberius and Neop- tolemus. Between them im enter the RAMULt: I. 15 GALLERY OF INSCRIPTIONS. To the right, the Faniese Hercules leaiiiiitf on his club, tlie work of Gycon of Athens : from the Baths of Caracalla. To the left, the Farnese Bull, by Apollonius and Thauriscus of Rhodes ; one of the finest groups of ancient art : from the Baths of Caracalla. Pliny (xxxvi. 4) says: "Zethus and Amphion, with Dirce, the bull, and the halter, all sculptured from a single block of marble, the work of Apollonius and Thauriscus, and brought to Rome from Rhodes." Zethus and Amphion bound Dirce, qiieen of Thebes, to a wild bull, in revenge for the death of their mother, who had been so treated by Dirce. Returning into the corridor, off it, on the left, is a room containing jnedieval works ; amongst others, The Modesty, by Sammartino. A broad marble staircase leads to the basement, containing EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES, where is the statue of Jujjiter Serapis found at Pozzuoli, Christian inscriptions, mummies, and Egyptian gods. 976. Statue of Isis, from temple at Pompeii. Ascending, passing out of the gallery, turn right, then left, through CORRIDORS OF STUCCO AND FRESCOES from Pompeii, mostly mural decorations. A niche on the right con taijis a frescoed pier representing the fuller's art. Crossing the grand vestibide, we enter the CORRIDOR OF SCULPTURES. 6006. Electra urging Orestes to avenge the murder of their father Agamemnon. 6007. An archaic statue of Pallas with the segis. 6009-10. Harmodius and Aristogiton, who delivered Athens from the Pisistratidse by killing Hipparchus, 514 b.c. 6011. A copy of the Doryphorus, by Polycletus. 6017. A very beautiful statue called the Venus of Capua. The arms are restored. This is not a Venus, but Victory, and is similar to the Nike of the Louvre, the so-called Venus de Melos. She should hold a shield in her hands, like the Victory at Brescia. "We believe this is the statue of Victory spoken of by Cicero (" Divi." i. 43) as on a certain occasion being "covered with a miraculous sweat." 6020. Venus Callipygos (so called from that part of her body at which she is looking), from the Baths of Caracalla. 6012-15. Reclining — an Amazon, a Persian, a 16 NAPLES. Gaul (like the dying Gaul of the Capitol). 6023. Bust of Homer. 6028. Bust of Pompey the Great. In the recess a porphyry vase from Caracal la's Baths. 6224. A fragment representing the head and shoulders of the father in the Laocoon group of the Vatican, showing how erroneous are the restorations there made by Bernini and Cornacchini. The right hand is behind the head. 6025, Brutus's bust. 6022. Silenus carrying the infant Bacchus — the Faun's head does not belong to it. 6026. A Nereid on a sea-monster. 6027. Juno. 6029. The younger Agrippina, mother of Nero, similar to the one of the elder Agrippina in tlie Capitol. 6034. Torso of Bacchus, a very fine fragment. 6019. Psyche, from Capua, a beautiful Greek ideal personification of the soul, the lone of Buliver. 6030. Antinous, Hadrian's ideal of self-sacrifice. Turn to the left in going up the CORRIDOR OF STATUES. 6211. Equestrian statue of Marcus Nonius Balbus, the elder, from Herculaneurn. Head modern. 6167. A statue of the same. 6168.Viciria Archas, the mother of Balbus. 6235. Suedius Clemens. 6233. Marcus Holconius Eufus. On the plinth is inscribed — "To Marcus Holco- iiius Rufus, son of Marcus, a duumvir and mayor for the fifth time, quinquennalis for the second time, elected by the people military tribune, a priest of Augustus, patron of the colony (of Pompeii)." 6119. A hunter. 6107. A priestess. Turn wp the corridor. 6136. Bust of Lycurgus, who lost his left eye in a riot at Sparta. He was the famous Spartan legislator, 800 B.C. 6137. Hannibal. This was found at Capua. Its authenticity is doubtful. 6146. Herodotus, the father of history, 450 B.C. 6104. Equestrian statue of the younger Marcus Nonius Balbus, very fine. 6188. A vestal. 6189. Cleopatra (?). 6232. To Eumachia, daughter of Lucius, public priestess, this statue was dedicated by the fullers. From their hall at Pompeii. 6177. Cicero. 6179. Lucius Junius Brutus. 6210. Valerius Publicola. 6212. A hired mourner. 6118. A pig in a caldron, with two men scraping it. Turn to the left into the HALL OF VASES AND CANDELABRA. 6788-6791. Beautiful door ornaments from Pompeii. 6857. Taste- ful candelabrum, 6862. Rosso antico vase. HALL OF RELIEFS. Xe/if;— 6753, 6757, 6763. Reliefs, figures representing proviiices, found in the Piazza di Pietra, Rome, and companions to those in the KAMKLIC I. 17 Court of the Palazzo del Conservatori of the Cajjitol. C738, ()739 {above). Trophies belonging to the provinces. (J77(3. Sarcophagus : the Ti'iumph of Bacchus. 6678. A sacrifice vowed for the safety and victory of Marcus Ain-elius. 6679. Initiation into the Bacchanal rites. 6682. Temptation of Helen. 6684. A drunken Bacchus supported by a faun. 6685. Silenus drunk, riding ui)on an ass. 6687. Comic scene. 6688. Apollo and the three Graces. 6690. Woman and bird. 6691. Tiberius and his wife on a horse. 6693. Sarcophagus : Bac- chus and Silenus. 6704. Relief : Life of a Gladiator. 6705. Sar- cophagus : Creation of Man, by Prometheus. 6715. Two beautiful Caryatides, with a female seated under a tree, with inscription : "Greece erected this trophy after their victory over the Caryans, who had gone over to the Persians." 6725. Relief : Euphrosyne, Aglaia, and Tlialia, the three Graces, liand in hand with Ismene, ITikasis, Eranno, and Teloiniesos. 6727. Orpheus, Eiu-ydice, and Mercury. 6728. Bacchus presenting the canthanis to another figure, effaced. 6780 {in the centre of the hall). A pedestal bears the personification of fourteen cities of Asia Minor, rebuilt by Tiberius after an earthquake. They were eased of tribute for three years (Tacitus, "Ann." iv. 13). HALL OF MASKS. On the left is a case w^ith statuettes and double Hermes busts. 6671. Well-head sculptured wuth vines. 6556. Archaic, man and dog. 6672. A table-foot representing a Centaur, Cupid, and Scylla. 6600, 6601. Galleys. 6003. A marriage. 6673 {in the centre of the hall). The Gaeta Vase, by Salpion the Athenian : Mercury present- ing the infant Bacchus to the nymph Nisa. HALL OF FLORA. On the pavement, a beautiful mosaic from the house of the Faun at Pompeii, representing the battle of Lssus, between Darius and Alexander the Great. Ze/?;— 6411. Protesilaus. 6416. The Wounded Gladiator. He has received his death-wound in the region of the heart, and is staggering towai'ds the spectators. 6408. A gladiator. 6409. Flora, by Praxiteles. The form is beautifully shown through her flowing robes From the Baths of Caracalia. 6410. A gladiator, HALL OF THE MUSES. 6405, Wounded amazon on horseback. (5406. Hercules and Om- qhale. Love conquers strength. 6407. Warrior on horseback, (le) 2 18 NAPLES. G401. Clio, muse of liistory. 6404. Polyhymnia, sacred song, muse of memory and eloquence. 6402. Erato, of love poetry. 6400. Melpomene, of tragedy. 6399. Thalia, of comedy. 6395. Euterpe, of music. 6377. Calliope, of heroic poetry. 6376. Urania, of astronomy. 6378. Mnemosyne, their mother. HALL or ATLAS. 6358. Paris, with a dog. 6365. Naiad seated on a rock. 6329. Mar- syas and Olympus. 6331. Satyr with grapes. 6334. Kneeling satyr. 6339. Sleeping Cupid. 6351 - 6355. Ganymede and the eagle. 6353. Cupid, like that of the Vatican ; a copy of the original by Praxiteles. Centre of hall: — 6374. Atlas supporting the celestial globe, showing forty-two constellations. 6375. Cupid and dolphin. HALL OF VENUS. 6323 {in centre of room). Mars seated. 6307. Bacchus and AcTa- tus. 6311. Bacchus and a panther. 6314. Antinous as Bacchus, 6321. Minerva. 6283. Venus crouching with a Cupid. 6297. Seated Venus. 6301, 109608. Venus painted. (It is not a new fashion for ladies to paint.) HALL or APOLLO. In the centre, a colossal porphyry statue of Apollo, with Luna marble extremities. 6278. Diana of Ephesus, composed of alabaster and bronze. This gives us a good idea of the " great Diana of the Ephesians," and of the small statuettes made by Demetrius (Acts xix.). 6262. Apollo, the leader of the Muses, in basalt. 6273. Ceres. 6274. Jupiter Amnion. We here cross the Corridor of Statues {left :—Ql\%. A kneel- ing Phrygian in coloured marble. Right: — 6117. Fifteen Phrygians in pavonazzeto marble), and enter FIRST bronze hall. 4877. Colossal horse's head, the old coat of arms of Naples. 4888. Six gazelles. 4892. Mercury seated. 4895. Diana, with enamel eyes, used as an oracle. See hole in back of the head. Glass case with small objects. Notice two bronze wings. 4904. A horse from Herculaneum, one of four that surmounted Nero's Arch. SECOND HALL. Pound the room are cases with small objects. Centre:- 111697. Abundance, seated. 111170. Cupid carrying a dolphin, which served KAMliLE L 19 as a fountain. 5000. Boy and goose. "Boethus,[of Carthage], al- though more celebrated for his works in silver, has executed a beau- tiful figure of a child strangling a goose" (Pliny, xxxiv. 19). There is a marble copy in the Capitoline Museum. 4995. Bacchus and Ampelus. 4999. An araazon. 4996. Alexander the Great. 4997. Vic- tory. 500.3. Narcissus, exquisite. 111495. A cliarming bronze faun, a statuette, and the ornament of a fountain ; in execution, dimensions, and type, forms one of the group of the celebrated Narcissus, danc- ing faun, and Silenus. The eye is at once attracted by the bold, free, and graceful attitude of this figure, the muscular yet elegant proportions of which an unusually thick earthy incrustation, chemi- cally united with the oxide, in vain tries to hide. The faun leans far back ; the weight of the body rests on the right leg, the left being extended forward to preserve the balance. The wine-skin is squeezed under and held by the left arm, the hand of which grasps the spigot. The right arm and hand are lowered and slightly drawn back, in the attitude of one holding a cup to receive the stream of wine. A tube at the back of the figure led the water into the wine- skin, from whence it issued from the spigot. The shape of the head is very beautiful ; the locks of hair falling over the brow are admir- ably indicated ; a wreath (probably a vine branch with grapes) crowns the head, but is made indistinct by the incrustations. The ears are pointed, and there is the usual tail. The face and figure express that joyous abandonment of a youthful votary of Bacchus. The house in which it was found is called Casa del Centenario. 5002. Dancing faun, which gave its name to the house at Pompeii. 5001. Silenus. THIRD HALL. Ze/if; — 5619-5621. Dancers. 5589. Ciria, mother of Balbus. 5591. Lucius Mammius Matimus Augustalis, the inhabitants con- tributing the money. 5593. Tiberius Claudius Drusus. 5595. Au- gustus, deified. 5597. Marcus Calatorus. 5603-5605. Actresses. 5611. A Camillus. 5612. Faustina. 5615. Nero. 5616. Seneca. In the centre: — 5624. Faun asleep. 5626. Discobolus. 5629. Apollo dis- charging an arrow. 5630. Apollo. 5627. Discobolus. 5628. Drunken faun. 5625. Mercury in repose. FOURTH ROOM. Equestrian bronze statue of Nero, similar to that of M. Aurelius on the Capitol. Greek, Roman, and gladiatorial armour in cases. 5634. Scipio Afrir^nus. 20 NAPLES. Returning through the Bronze Rooms, turn to the right, then to the right again; we enter the HALL OF EMPERORS AND THEIR WIVES. As all these statues have their names on metal plates, it is un- necessary for us to enumerate them. There are none of them that call for any special mention, after seeing those in the museums at Rome. We notv ascend the stairs at the end of the vestibide to the ENTRESOL, OR MEZZANINO. Left. CuM^AN Collection. — First Hall, Arranged in cases : vases, cups, glass bottles and plates, beads, amphorse, Italo-Greek vases, etc. Second Hall. A wax mask found in a tomb ; jewellery ; a vase representing combats between the Amazons and Greeks, with their names ; glass and terra-cotta vases sculptured. For the models of the temples see page 132. Right. Room of Frescoes. — 111475. Capture of Europa. 113197. Found at Pompeii in June 1882, and highly interesting from the subject represented, — The Judgment of Solomon (1 Kings iii. 16-28). The scene illustrates verse 26 : "0 my lord, give her the living child, and in no wise slay it." " Until very recently there has never been, in Pompeii or Herculaneum, the slightest trace of any idea referable to a Jewish or Christian source. But in the i^rogress of excavations, which have been of late diligently and carefully renewed by the government, a striking discovery has been made of a character thought by many to be clearly exceiational in this particular. A few years ago there was removed from Pompeii to the Naples museum, where it was placed among the Pomj)eian frescoes, a pic- ture, 5| feet in length by 1 foot 7 inches in height, which in the opinion of many good critics stands for the judgment of Solomon. The scene is laid on a terrace in front of a house, which is shaded with a white awm'ng and festooned with creeping plants. On a plat- form, which would be about four feet in height, sits the king, hold- ing a sceptre and robed in wdiite ; on each side a counsellor, with six armed men in the rear. The king leans over the front of the plat- form towards a woman in a green robe, who is kneeling before him with outstretched hand and dishevelled hair. In the centre of the foreground is a three-legged table, on which lies an infant, held down, in spite of its struggles, by a woman wearing a turban. An armour- clad soldier, having on his head a helmet with a long red plume, RAMIU.E I. 21 holds the child's legs, and is about to cleave it in twain with his fal- chion. The coloui-ing of this early specimen of mural art is particu- larly bright and fresh. The drawing is inartistic, yet full of spirit and expression. The artist, apparently in his anxiety to develop strongly the expression of the faces of the figures, has exaggerated the heads in size and rather dwarfed the botlies. At first glance this might suggest caricature, but the marked agony of the kneeling mother, the absorbed attention of the listening king, the compla- cency of the second woman, who appears to be gloating over the fate threatened by the lifted weapon, appear to repel all idea of travesty. No other discoveries w^ere made in the exhumation of the house from which this was taken which would tend to shed light upon its occu- pant's faith, or confirm the suspicion that some Jew had made his home even there. But if this be indeed the first hint looking in that direction, it surely deserves remembrance. Anyhow, the stones of the desert, the mounds of the plains, and the exhumed frescoes of early art, all combine to bear testimony to the truth of the Di\une "Word" {Homiletic Magazine). 111441. Cupid urging the suit of Orion to Diana. 111436. An ox about to be sacrificed, calling to our minds the scene at Lystra, when the people took Barnabas for Jupi- ter and Paul for Mercury : " Then the priest of Jupiter, which was before their city, brought oxen and garlands unto the gates, and would have done sacrifice with the people" (Acts xiv. 13). 112285. The guardians of the Lares attacking a man, above whom is written, " Cacator cave malum." Fortune stands on the right. 111479. The destruction of the children of Niobe. 112222 The Amphitheatre of Pompeii is here depicted, illustrating the scene as described by Tacitus, "Ann.'' xiv. 17, a.d. 59. (See page 64.) The awning is depicted as rolled up, not spread, and the spoliarium is shown to our right of the Amphitheatre. In the foreground, under the trees, refreshments are sold. 111473. Pan and nymphs, with farm in the backgroimd. Tlie case in the centre is for Pompeian terra-cottas. Second Eooji. — Frescoes lately found at Pomjoeii. Two heads crowned with bay, and with rolls in their hands. On one is WTitten Horner^ and on the other Sappho. Tliey ai'e imaginary portraits. Third Room. — Ancient glass in cases. Centre: — 13688. A patera in blue glass, with white handles. 13522. A blue glass plate inlaid with gold. 13521. Blue glass amphora upon a modern silver stand, found filled with ashes in a tomb at Pompeii, representing the genii 22 NAPLES. of the vintage as on the sarcophagus of Constantina in the Vatican, and the mosaic work on her tomb near Rome. Fourth, Fifth, and Sixth Rooms. — Glass and terra-cotta used for domestic purposes. In the Fifth Room, 1041, are the Volscian reliefs found at Velletri in 1784. Ascending the stair to the ujjper floor, tlie door on the left leads to THE NUMISMATIC COLLECTION, consisting of 50,000 specimens in the history of Italy, arranged in six halls, having ancient mosaic pavements and maps upon the walls ; also a numismatic library. The compartments are arranged in the following order : Greek, Roman, Medieval, Modern, Dies of the old Naples Mint. Professor Fiorelli has prepared an excellent catalogue, which hangs above each case. Opposite is the CABINET OGGETTI OSCENI, consisting of frescoes, bronzes, and silver, not of much account. Gentlemen only admitted. THE PICTURE GALLERY in this wing is arranged in rooms according to schools, in the follow- ing order : Bolognese, Tuscan, Neapolitan, German, Dutch. There are catalogues fixed at the doors of each room, but as they are rather awkward to considt, ice call attention to the principal onaster- pieces. Bolognese School. — 1. Woman of Samaria, by Lavinia Fontana. 3. Virgin and Child ; reverse, Annunciation, by A. Caracci, on a piece of agate. V. Infant Jesus Asleep, by Guido Reni. 11. S. John, after Domenichino. 17. Flight into Egypt, same. 21. Timodea thrusting a Captain into a Well, who hoped to find Treasure by descending, by Elizabeth Sirani, 1600 a.d. 25. Apollo in Space, by A. Caracci. 36. Hercules between Virtue and Vice, same. 38. Sibyl, by Romanelli. 44. Modesty and Vanity, by Guido Reni. 52. Ma- donna, Jesus, and John, by Raibolino. 65. Angels with Censers, by A. Caracci. 69. Judith slaying Holof ernes, by Caravaggio. 70. The Virgin giving Jesus to S. Pasquale, by Guercino. 72. Martyrdom of SS. Philip and James, by D. Muratori ; sketch of the fresco in SS. Apostoli, Rome. Tuscan School. — Centre. Bronze Tabernacle, by Jacopo Siciliani, a pupil of Michael Angelo. 2. Holy Family, by Jacopo Carduzzi ; a copy of original, by Andrea del Sarto. 4. Marriage of Mary and IJAMBLE I. 23 Joseph, by Cosiino Rosselli. 6. Holy Family, by Bronzino (Angelo Allori). 24. Mary and Jesus Enthroned, by Jadopo Pacchiarotti. 30. Virgin and Christ, by Ghirlaudaio. 32. Virgin and Jesiis, by Sandro Botticelli. 33. Mary, Jesus, and John, by A. PoUaiuolo. 36. Ecce Homo, by Bronzino. 37. Annunciation, by Fili))iJ0 Lippi. 44. His Portrait, by Masaccio. Neapolitan School. — 1. Crucifixion, by Pietro del Donzello. 7. Madonna and Christ with Saints, by Antonio Solari (II Zingaro). 27. S. James of Galitz charging the Saracens, by Belisario Corenzio. 34. Adoration of the Magi, b}- Andrea da Salerno. In adjoining room are specimens of the Byzantine and early Tuscan Schools. Room beyond. — Neapolitan Schools of the thirteenth and four- teenth centuries very much restored. Later Neapolitan School. — 13. Mary and Joseph with the Sleeping Jesus, by Gennaro Sarnelli. 18. Charitas (S. Francis of Paola), school of Giordano. 24. Adoration of the Shepherds, by Paolo de Matteis. 59. Parable of the Mote and the Beam, by Sal- vator Eosa. 61. Marriage at Cana, by Giordano. 69. Salome with the Head of John, by Giordano. 71. ISIadonua and Saints, same. 72. Masaniello, by Spadaro. 95. S. Agatha, school of Stanzioni. 96. The Virgin in Priest's Eobes, by B. Rodgerio. 100. Jesus and S. Antony, by Vaccaro. In the centre of this hall is a beautiful cabinet of walnut, from the Vestry S. Agostino degli Scalzi, made by one of the brothers in the sixteenth century, upon which are carved the life of S. Austin and numerous Cupids. It contains fifteenth century works of art in ivory, rock-crystal, ebony, glass, the sword of Alexander Farnese, mosaics, amber box, onyx vase, fans. Another cabinet, formerly the door of the vestry, contains a col- lection of Abruzzi and Urbino ware ; the Farnese Casket, said to be the work of Benvenuto Cellini, representing a temple. German and Dutch Schools. — 3. Adoration of the Magi, by L. Damnez (Luca d'Olanda). 11. Festival at Rotterdam, by J. Bruegel. 31. Triptych of the Nativity, by Van Orlej'. 42. Fran9ois, Husband of Mary, Queen of Scots (1558 a.d), by C. Amberger. 44. S. Jerome and the Lion, by Jan Van Eyck. 50. A Thief (the World) Stealing the Purse of a Monk, by Bruegel, 1565 a.d. Flemish School.— 4. Violin-player, by Teniers, jun. 17. Rem- brandt's Portrait, by himself. 32. Battle, by Wonwermans. 56. Skaters, by Wilhelm Schellings. 81. A Tavern, by Teniers, sen. 24 NAPLES. HALLS OF ITALO-GREEK VASES. Entered from seventh Picture Room, containing over three thousand specimens of terra-cotta, arranged in seven rooms, with mosaic pave- ments from Pompeii. 2107, in the second room, right, represents a man riding on a bicycle. In the end room is a model tomb to show how the vases were placed. From tite first of these rooms ive enter, on the left, the SANTANGELO COLLECTION, composed of vases, glass, mosaics, terra-cottas, and coins, purchased by the Naples Municipality in 1865 for 215,000 lire. There is a valu- able collection of over 12,000 Greek coins. The mosaic pavements are from Pompeii. From the eighth Picture Room ice enter the HALLS OF SSIALL BRONZES, consisting of ancient bronze domestic utensils found at Pompeii and Herculaneum, arranged in two rooms. Here may be seen kitchen utensils, weights, scales, lamps, stoves, iron bedsteads, surgical and musical instruments, chairs, water-cocks and taps, arms and toilet articles, sacrificial vases, dishes, urns, agricultural tools, and many things similar to those in use at the present day — showing that the ancients knew far more than they generally get credit for. First Eoom. — 72983 (at the corner of the objects placed in the centre). A kitchener, in the shape of a fortress, adapted for every cooking purpose, and to warm the room. Right : — 72985. A triclinium, or banqueting-couch. 73018. Cylindrical stove and boiler. 72984. A brazier. 72987. A beautiful pedestal for a table, with an exquisite Victory in front. 72988. Bisellium or chair of state. There are others similar in this room. 72995. Tripod for sacrifices, from Her- culaneum, of the finest workmanship. 72998. Stocks from Pompeii, such as Paul and Silas were put into. The jailer "thrust them into the inner prison, and made their feet fast in the stocks " (Acts xvi. 24). 109697. A graceful vase. The handles are very beautifully formed with acanthus leaves, out of which peeps the head of Medusa. 73000. Candelabrum, formed with a square fluted pilaster supporting a Corinthian capital. 73003. Seven baths. 73005. Brazier from the baths at Pompeii. In the centre are three iron safes. Many curious speci- mens of small objects may be observed in the cases round the room. Second Room. — In the centre is an interesting model of the city RAMBLE I. 25 of Pompeii, wliere its topography Oiin be conveniently studied and its position and buildings taken in a bird's-eye view. The model is made of cork, and added to as the excavations progress. Tlie scale is 1 to 100. There is also a model of the house of the tragic poet. In the case at the end of the room, in entering on the left, 73880, is an urn for heating wine, similar to a tea-urn or samovar. 111048. Urn: notice, Cupid striding a Dolphin forms the tap. 78614 {at end of room). Bedsteads : the red painted wood is a restoration. 78673. Brazier, on the principle of the tubular boiler. In the cases round the room are musical instruments, toys, dice, theatrical tickets, toilet requisites, sculptors' tools, fishing-tackle, weights, writing materials, and surgi- cal instruments. For these latter, see Table Ixv., No. 77982, and following. A discovery has lately been made in Pompeii which is well worth noting, in the shape of a quadrivalve speculum of great beauty, and in a high state of preservation. By competent persons who have examine I it, the mechanism of it is said to be very ingenious. In the museum there are now three Pompeian specula — one a- bivalve, one a tri valve, and the one just found a quadrivalve. This last is of a construction so uniform and well-proportioned, admitting the expansion of the valves, as to be superior to many of modern con- struction. It is noted as a curious fact that in its various dimen- sions it observes constantly the centimetric measurement. It will be foimd, in fact, on inspecting the cases round these rooms, that many of the instruments believed to be of modern invention are clearly only exhumations of the past. Beyond is the CABINET OF GEMS, containing 2,000 specimens of cameos, intaglios, gold and silver ; also the celebrated Tazze Farnese, an onyx dish found in Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli, or, according to others, in his tomb at Rome. It has a cameo on both sides. Outside, the head of Medusa ; inside, figures in relief, representing the festival lield on the foundation of the city of Alexandria. 27647. A magnifying-glass. An hour can be well spent in examining this unique collection. We now retrace our way through the Picture Gallery. On the land- ing of the stairs is the entrance to THE LIBRARY, open from 8 till 2, containing 200,000 volumes and 4,000 manuscripts. The great hall has a curious repeating echo. 26 NAPLES. Crossing the landing, and ascending the stairs on the right, is the COLLECTION OF PAPYRL About three thousand were found in the ruins ; almost six hun- dred have been unrolled and prhited. Opposite is a room containing FOOD FROM POMPEII, with copies of frescoes on the walls. 84595. Bread found in an oven. 84613. Grain. 84628. Dried fruits. 84839. Meat and fruit. BEEAD FOUND AT POMPEII. 84846. Glass jar with petrified wine. 84849. Glass vases with oil. In centre : — Glass jar containing olive oil. Strip of asbestos cloth. Beyo^id is the SECOND PICTURE GALLERY, arranged in halls of various schools, having each separate catalogues, — Roman, Parmesan, Lombardian, Venetian, Mixed Schools, Hall of Correggio, Room of Raphael. The light in the halls devoted to the pictures in the museum is very bad, and consequently the subjects cannot be well seen. Roman School.— 9. Holy Family, by Sassoferrato. 10. Temple of Vespasian and Arch of Augustus at Rome, by Pannini. 20. Ma- donna del Passeggio ; 26. Virgin, Jesus, and S. John ; 28. Madonna and Child ; 30. Urban IV.— all by the school of Raphael. 21. The Saviour's Cradle and Angels, by Pinturicchio 27. Same, by Sasso- ferrato. 41. "Touch me not," by F. Vanni. 54. Same, by D'Arpiuo. Parmesan School. — 1, Angel with Lance, by Simon Vovet. 3. Angel releasing Peter, by Storer. 12. Madonna and Jesus, by RAMBLE I. 27 Parniigiano. 18. Christ Crowned, by Correggio. 20. The Laugliiiig Boys, by Parniigiano. 21. Cupid Resting, by Sclndone. 28. S. Lawrence, by same. 40. The Sleeping Baptist, by Castiglione. Lombard School. — 1. Pope Paul the Third's Slioemaker, by Sohidone. 10. Christ telling the Pharisees to pay Tribute, by Schidoue. 12. Amerigo Vespucci, by Parmigiano. 15. Devotees, by Leonardo da Vinci. 17. Adoration of the Magi, by Caesare da Sesto. 18. Jesus and John, by Boltraffio. 26. Minerva, style of Parmigiano. Venetian School. — Virgin with Cliild and Nuns, by Luigi Vivarini. 2. Jui)iter on a Globe with Divinities. 4. Jupiter at a Banquet of Deities, school of Tintoretto. Madonna and Jesus with Saints, by Bartolommeo Vivarini, 14G5 a.d. 10. Church at Venice, by Canaletti (Bernardo Bellotti). 20. Paul III., by Titian, a sketch. 23. The Circumcision, by P. Veronese. 30. An Old Man, by Tor- bido (il Moro). 40. The Resurrection, school of Andrea Mantegna. 43. Martyrdom of S. Lawrence, a beautiful woi'k attributed to Santacroce. 53. Christ before Herod (Luke xxiii. 7), by Andrea Schiavone, 60. Holy Family, school of Titian. Sala di Correggio. — 1. Jesus and the Doctors, by Salvator Rosa. 3. Madonna del Coniglio, the Zingarella, by Correggio. 5. Jupiter, in the form of a Shower of Gold, visiting DanaiJ, by Titian. 7. Marriage of S. Catherine, a gem, by Correggio. 8. Paul III., by Titian. 15. The Magdalen, by Guercino. Various Schools. — 2. S. Sebastian, by Schidone. 3. Raising of Lazarus, by Giacomo da Ponte (il Bassano). 5. Madonna del Gatto, by Giulio Romano. 7. Transfiguration, by Bellini. 8. Christopher Columbus, school of Raphael. 10. Copy of Michael Angelo's Last Judgment, by M. Venusti. 11. Virgin and Child, by Perugino. 14. Crucifixion, by Bernardino Gatti. 17. The Cavalier Tibaldeo, portrait, by Raphael. 19. Leo X., with Cardinals, by Raphael. 22. Holy Family, by Raphael. 28. S. Jerome Praying, by Pal ma il Vecchio. 30. Guardian Angel, by Domenichino. 32. Landscape, by Claude Gelee. 34. The Assumption, by Pinturicchio. 36. The Weeping Magdalen, by Titian. 47. The Race between Atalanta and Hippomenes, by Guido Reni. 57. La Disputa, by Palma, jun. 61. The Assumption, by Fra Bartolommeo. Leaving the Museum^ loe take lunch at the Cafe SantangelOj in the Galleria Principe di Napoli, opposite ; then resuming our ramble, follow the continuation of the Via Roma, Strada Nuova di Capodi- monte, to the 28 NAPLES. VILLA AND PALAZZO DI CAPODIMONTE. The grounds ai'e laid out in the English style, and from them many splendid views may be liad. The palace was begun in 1738, and finished in 1834. It contains some modern pictures, a catalogue of which will be found in each room ; some medieval armour ; and an interesting collection of Capodimonte porcelain, the manufac- ture of which has been discontinued for some time. In the valley below Capodimonte are the remains of a Roman aqueduct, Ponti Rossi. On emerging from the gates, the Strada S. Gennaro, on the right, leads to the CHURCH OF S. GENNARO (32), founded in the eighth century, on the site where S. Januarius Avas buried. The inner court is decorated with frescoes, by Sabbatini, representing the life of the saint. Attached is a poorhouse. Apply to the porter. Admission 1 lira each to THE CATACOMBS, which differ from those at Rome in the passages being much wider and loftier.* There are three stories ; but like all the catacombs, they have been stripped of their inscriptions. A few frescoes still remain, figures of Peter and Paul, some early bishops, and ceiling paintings. These cemeteries were used for burial during the plague of 1656^ Retracing our way down the Via Roma, after passing the Piazza Dante, we turn to the left down the Strada S. Anna c/e' Lomhardi, then to the left up the Strada S. Trinita to the GESU NUOVO (12), on the left. The front is in the Rustic style, but it is unfinished. The monument in the square was erected in 1747, and is surmounted by a statue of the Virgin in bronze. The interior of the church has a fine eiTect. Over the door is a good fresco, by Solimena, representing Heliodorus being driven out of the temple. The Chapel of S. Ignatius contains statues of David and Jeremiah, by Fonsaga. In another chapel are paintings by Giordano and Guercino. Nearly opposite, through a gateway to the right, is the * See " The Roman Catacombs : Their True History ; and Records of Early Christian Alt." By S. Russell Forbes, Ph.D. RAMBLK I. 29 CHURCH OF S. CHIARA (8). ' founded in 1380 by Robert the Wise of Anjoii. It has been "re- stored" at various times, so that its original Gothic character is quite destroyed, and its frescoes, by Giotto, are nearly all white- washed ; yet it is an imposing building, rich in marbles. It con- tains several good monuments, particularly the one behind the high altar to King Robert, 42 feet in height. To the right of the door in entering is a fresco of Mary and the dead Christ, by Giotto, very much damaged. To the left, the Trinity, by the same master ; and the Madonna and Cliild is at an altar up the nave to the left. These last two are somewhat difficult to dis- tinguish, owing to the votive ofl'erings which nearly hide them. No. 20 Largo S. Trixita Maogiore, the old refectory, contains a good fresco — the Miracle of the Loaves — after Giotto, supposed to be by one of his pupils. Further down the street, on the left, is the CHURCH OF S. DOMENICO MAGGIORE (9). A very handsome Gothic church of 1285, tastefully decorated: 249 feet long, 180 feet wide, and 84 feet high. It contains many monuments of Neapolitan princes, in the Renaissance style. It is the burial-place of S. Thomas Aquinas, who was a brother of the adjoining monastery ; and they show his cell, chair, etc., also the crucifix which spoke to him : " Bene scripsisti de me, Thoma : quam ergo mercedem recipies ? " to which he replied : " Non aliam nisi te." Ill front of the church is an obelisk to S. Dominic. Leaving the church hy a small door opposite that hy which we eMered, descending the steps, xoe take the Vico S. Severo opposite, then the first turning on the left, Calata di S. Severo. No. 15 is the CAPPELLA DI S. SEVERO {key at caffe opposite, fee half -lira), erected in 1590 as a burial-place of the Sangro family, and noted for its allegories sculptured in marble. The man in the net, to right of altar, disentangling himself by the aid of Reason, represented as a crowned genius, is called II disinganno. It is by Qneiroli, alluding to Antonio di Sangro, who became a monk on the death of his wife Cecilia Gaetani, to left of altar, who is represented as Prudence slightly veiled and draped, by Conradini. At the base of her pedestal, to left of altar, is a dead Christ laid out in a winding-sheet, through which the anatomy ot the body is distinctly shown. 30 NAPLKS. Regaining the Piazza Trinitd, take, to the left, the Calata Trinitd, Maggiore ; passing the fountain on the left, steps lead up to the CHURCH OF S. ANNA DE' LOMBARDI, OR MONTE OLIVETO (25), erected in 1414 by Guerello Origlia. It contains some interesting family monuments, and a chapel of the Holy Sepulchre. The group is in terra-cotta, by Modanino. Round the dead Christ are six kneeling figures, portraits of friends of the sculptor: Alphonso II. as Joseph, Pontanus as Nicodemus, Sannazzaro as Joseph of Arimathsea. In the adjacent monastery — now public offices — Tasso was re- ceived in 1588, when in poverty. Pieturning as far as the Fountain, u'hich is sunnounted with a statue of Charles III., designed hy Cufaro in 1668, we turn to the right, past the Post Office, down the Strada Monteoliveto. We now reach the Strada Medina, opposite tJie Statue of Mercadante. On the rigid, next to No. Jf9, afiight of steps leads doivn to tlie CHURCH OF L'INCORONATA (18), founded by Johanna I. in 1352, and containing some good frescoes of the school of Giotto, representing the Seven Sacraments and the Church. Over tlie rigfit wh^dow, Triumph of the Church, in which King Robert and his son Charles are introduced. Baptism : the two half figures represent Laura and Petrarch. Matrimony, con- taining a portrait of Dante. Another chapel contains frescoes of the coronation and marriage of Johanna. Opposite is tlie PALAZZO FONDI. {Special permission of the Prince.) The principal pictures are four landscapes by Salvator Rosa ; the Poet Marini, by Domenichino ; S. Philip Neri, by Leonardo da Vinci ; Mater Dolorosa, by Raphael; Portrait of Vandyck, by himself ; Madonna del Cardellino, by Rubens ; Diana and Callisto, by Rembrandt. NEAPOLITAN LIFE. In our rambles in Naples and its neighbourhood we can take advantage of the life and movement in the streets to study many of the phases of Neapolitan life. Such characteristics as are not ex- hibited in any other European city present themselves to the eye — a blending of the Oriental and the Greek. The handsome and grace- KAMBLi: 1. 31 ful forma of tlie men and women, as they flit liitber and thither — talking, shoutino;, and gesticulating — attract the attention, and show that all are not lazy, whatever some may be. Their conversation is marked with ardour ; but ignorance and superstition are the chief characteristics of the mind— one moment invoking the aid of the Madonna or a saint, and the next cursing the object of their prayer. In barter keen, of amusement devotees, no opportunity is lost for business or pleasure by these sons of the sunny South. NAPLES A ROMAN COLONY. In July 1890 some inscriptions were found on the Corso Gai'ibaldi showing that Elagabalus had made Naples a Roman colony. COLOMA . AVRELIA . AVU A.NTOXIAXA . FELIX NEAPOLIS. Imp . caEs . m . avRELLio . Antojiino invicto . pio . felici . Avg . pont max . TRIE . POT . cos .p.p. DIVI , SEPTlili sevERi . Pii . nepoTi . divi , antoxixi raAGxi PII filio RAMBLE II, PIAZZA DEI MARTIRI— THEATRE OP S. CARLO — PIAZZA DEL MUNICIPIO — CHURCH OP S. GIACOMO DEGLI SPAGNUOLI— FONTANA MEDINA — CASTEL NUOVO— TRIUMPHAL ARCH — CHURCH OF S. BARBARA — PORTA DEL CARMINE — S. MARIA DEL CARMINE — PIAZZA DEL MERCATO — CORSO GARIBALDI — PORTA CAPUANA — THE CEMETERIES — CASTLE CAPUANO — SS. APOSTOLI — S. PAOLO MAGGIORE, TEMPLE OF CASTOR AND POLLUX — THEATRE — S. LORENZO, BASILICA AUGUSTALIS — THE CATHEDRAL OF S. JANUARIUS, TEMPLE OF NEPTUNE 8. RESTITUTA, TEMPLE OF APOLLO — AN- CIENT THEATRE (?) — S. MARTINO— CASTEL S. ELMO — CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE — THE INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL— VIRGIL's TOMB — RIVIERA DI CHIAJA — VILLA NAZIONALE — THE AQUARIUM — IMPROVEMENTS. To the left, or west of the Pizzofalcone, the Chiatamone takes us into the Strada delta Pace, hence to the PIAZZA DEI MARTIRI. {Square of the Martyrs.) The lofty column was erected to the martyrs of Italian liberty. It is decorated with trophies, and surmounted with a figure of Victory. The four lions at its base represent the four principal revolutions in Naples. The granite pillar was originally given by the Emi)eror of Russia to Ferdinand of Naples. The Strada S. Caterina to the right, and the Strada di Chiaja to the right, lead to the Piazza S. Ferdinando and the THEATRE OP S. CARLO (35). (Teatvo S. Carlo.) Built in 1737 by King Charles III., and rebuilt since the fire of 1816. The fa§ade is decorated with bas-reliefs. At the entrance are two horse-tamers, given by the Emperor Nicholas, the work of Baron Clodt. Under the arcades you can have a love or business letter written with equal despatch. RAMBf.E II. 33 THE GALLERIA UMBERTO. ' This is a fine handsome arcade, in the form of a Clreek cross, with a dome in the centre. Tlie arms have entries from the Via S. Carlo, Via Eoma, Via del Municipio, and Via S. Brigida. It contains some elegant shops and a concert-hall in the basement. PIAZZA DEL MUNICIPIO. Following the Via S. Carlo, we come to the fine new square which has recently been opened out from the town-hall right down to the Molo or quay. It is a grand improvement, and worthy of the largest city in Italy. B*f the Municipio is the CHURCH OF S. GIACOMO DEGLI SPAGNUOLI (13), erected in 1540 by Don Pedro de Toledo, containing his Tomb, Giovanni da Nola's masterpiece. To the right in entering there is a good Holy Family by Andrea del Sarto; and in the third chapel on the left Lama's Descent from the Cross. From the Strada del Molo, the Strada Medina leads out on the left. In the open space is the FONTANA MEDINA, (Medina Fountain,) formed by a large basin supported by four satyrs. In the centre rises Neptune with his trident, from wliich flow refreshing streams amidst jets of water. Four tritons on sea-horses occup}' the base, with lions and other animals spouting forth sjsrays of water. To the right is the CASTEL NUOVO. {New Castle.) After passing tlie guard at the modem entrance, turn to the right, then to the left, then to the left again. Cxistodian at No. S33. Founded in 1283, and once the residence of the kings of the IIou.ses of Anjou and Aragon ; also of the Spanish viceroys. The entrance to the castle square is formed by a lofty TRIUMPHAL. ARCH, between two round towers, one of which has recently fallen. Corinthian columns on either side of the arch support a frieze aud 06) .3 34 NAPLES. coruice ; on the attic is the reHef representing the entry of Alfonso into Naples, 1443 ; above are statues, with the four Virtues below in niches. The reliefs on the inside are good. The bronze doors are sculptured by a Neapolitan monk, representing the victories of Ferdinand I. In them is lodged a cannon-ball. The date of the arch is 1470. In tJie castle square is the CHURCH OP S. BARBARA. Custodian at No. 223, outside the arch, on the right in entering. It has a handsome Corinthian front, with a beautiful relief of the Madonna over the entrance, by Majano. Behind the liigh altar is the famous oil-painting of the Adoration of the Magi, considered by Vasari to be by Van Eyck, and one of the oldest paintings in the world. In an adjoining chapel are some good paintings on the vault and altar. We resume our ramble along the Strada del Molo and Strada del Piliero, which skirt the harbours. Visitors can ascend to the top of the lighthouse on the Molo, where a good view of the town can be had. Fee, 1 lira. The Strada Nuova Quay leads to the Porta del Carmine and Castel del Carmine, now a prison and ban-acks, once occupied by Masaniello. In the adjoining piazza is the CHURCH OF S. MARIA DEL CARMINE (20), containing a beautiful statue by Thorwaldsen, erected in 1847 by Maximilian II. of Bavaria to his ancestor, King Conradin, the last of the Hohenstauffen, who was executed in the adjacent Piazza del Mercato in 1268 by order of Charles I. of Anjou. To the right ice pass up the Corso Garibaldi to the Porta Capuana, outside ichich are the Cemeteries. THE PORTA CAPUANA, re-erected in 1535, is one of the finest Renaissance gateways in exist- ence, and is flanked by two picturesque round towers. Through it is the Castel Capuana, formerly the residence of the kings, but now the Courts of Justice. From the Strada dei Tribunali, on the right, loe turn up the Strada Santi Apostoli to the CHURCH OP SS. APOSTOLI (0), founded by Constantine on the ruins of a temple of Mercury, and rebuilt in 1626. This church has a pleasing effect, with its decora- RAMni.K 11. 35 tions of various coloured marbles aiul frescoes l)y some of tlie best Neapolitan masters : the cupola by Lanfranco and Ben;isca, the nave by Solimena, and the transept by Giordano. The Pool of Bethesda, over the door, is by Lanfranco. Jtegainviff the Strada dei Tribunal), a little he>/07id, on the right, is the CHURCH OF S. PAOLO MAGGIORE (20), on the site of the ancient Temple of Cjistor and Pollux ; erected by Julius Tai-sus, Prefect of Naples under Augustus. Two beautiful Corinthian columns, supporting a piece of the architrave, still re main ; also the bases of two others. The church is approached by a lofty flight of stejjs, and was de- stroyed by an earthquake in 1688, but has been rebuilt. To the left of the front is a statue to S. G'aetano Tiene. THE ROMAN THEATRE. The Cloisters, entered from the Strada S. Paolo on the left of the church, throxigh an archway on the right, are formed by twenty-four ancient granite columns, which ai-e supposed to have formed jjart of a theatre in which Nero acted. At the back of the church is another cloister, the vaults of which ai-e said to be part of the theatre, which is thus spoken of by Suetonius (" Nero," xx.) : — " Accoi'dingly, he made his first public a])pearance at Naples ; and although the theatre quivered with the sudden shock of an earth- quake, he did not desist until he had finished the piece of music he had begun. He played and sang in the same place several times, and for several days together, taking only now and then a little respite to refresh his voice. Impatient of retirement, it wa.5 his custom to go from the bath to the theatre ; and after dining in the orches- tra amidst a crowded assembly of the people, he promised them in Greek ' that after lie had drunk a little he would give them a tune which would make their ears tingle.' Being highly pleased with the songs that were sung in his praise by some Alexandrians belonging to the fleet just arrived at Naples, he sent for more of the like singers from Alexandria. At the same time he chose young men of the equestrian order, and above five thousand robust young fellows from the common people, on purpose to learn various kinds of ap- plause, called bomhi, imbrices, and testa; which they were to prac- tise in his favour whenever he performed. They were divided into several parties, and were remarkable for their fine heads of hair, and were extremely well dressed, with rings upon their left hands. 36 NAPLES. The leaders of these bands had salaries of forty thousaud sesterces allowed them." "The theatre, when the audience had retired, being empty, fell into a heap of ruins without hurting any one" (Tacitus, "Ann." xv. 34). Upon a i^ier of the arch of one of the vomitoria this inscription has been recently discovered— MNHCeHn€KOyAIAPIC. Nearly op-posite S. Paolo, to the left, is the CHURCH OF S. LORENZO MAGGIORE (19), (.S'. Laivrcncc,) with a massive square belfry adjoining, on the site of the ancient Basilica Augustalis, which, up to 1266, was the meeting-place of the Neapolitan senate. It was suppressed by Charles of Anjou and turned into a church ; but the portal, choir, and two beautiful windows in the cloisters are the only Gothic parts left. It contains monuments of the Neapolitan kings. In the adjoining monastery Petrarch resided in 1343 ; and it was in this church that Boccacio beheld his beautiful Fiammetta, a princess of the period. The arch of the transept and the vault of the tribunal, behind the altar, are tlie only parts visible of the ancient Roman basilica. Retracing our steps a short tvay, ive enter the new Strada del Duomo. Turning down it to the left, on the opposite side, is the CATHEDRAL OF S. JANUARIUS (1), supjDOsed to be erected on the site of a temple to Neptune. The font, an ancient vase of Egyptian Casalta marble with a porphyry pedestal, was anciently dedicated to Bacchus. The cathedral is approached by a flight of steps. It is of the Gothic oi'der, and was founded in 1272. Nearly destroyed by the earthquake of 1456, it has been since restored. It is built in the basilica form, and presents a mag- niiicent appearance. There are many tombs and monuments of interest. Below the high altar is the confessional of S. Januarius {entrance to right, doivn steps; fee, half-lira), formed with ancient columns and marbles, to the left side of which is the kneeling figure of Cardinal Carafa. There are several pieces of ancient sculpture worked into the panels. On entering the cathedral, the third chapel in the right aisle is that known as the Cajipella del Tesoro, having a marble facade and grand bronze doors, with columns of verde antico (green marble). The interior is in the form of a Greek cross, and is embellished with pictures on copper by Domenichino, Guido Reni, and Lanfranca RAMBLK II. 37 Tliere ai'e a silver bust of tlio «uiul, forty-live silver busta of other saints, aud several valuable I'elics. Forty-two columns of brocatello support the different altars. Here is deposited the biootl of the saint, martyred under Diocletian, and which li(]ueHes on the first Sunday in May, 19th Septendjer, and IGth December, which are great festivals with the Nea})olitans. Opposite, entered from the cathedral, door in left aisle — fee, half -lira, — is the CHURCH OF S. RESTITUTA, on the site of, and erected out of the remains of, a ten)ple to Apollo, the Corinthian columns of which form the nave of the church, which is of the basilica form. It contains an ancient mosaic of the Virgin, two reliefs from a chancel screen, each in fifteen compartments. Ad- joining is the Chapel of S. Giovanni i)i fonte. It was formerly the baptistery. Said to be founded by Constantine in 333. The vault is formed of ancient mosaics, the centre being the monogram of Christ, formed by the two first letters X (ki) P (row) of the Creek word. In the Strada Anticaglia, to the right of the cathedral, then to the left, are some remains called a theatre. THE ANCIENT BATHS. The remains consist of two massive walls of brick-work at right angles to one another, and they are pierced by two arches, under which passes the modern street. The construction proves them to belong to the latter \)a\:t of the second century. What they formed part of seems to us uncertain ; but they certainly do not form the component parts of a theatre. Perhaps they were baths. Lunch shoidd he taken in this locality. We here enter oxir carriage, and passing hij the gardens of the Piazza Cavour, the Strada Salvator Rosa takes us up to the CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF S. MARTINO. Open from 9 till 5 ; entrance, 1 lira each. To save time, the carriage can be told to return and wait at the foot of the descent, which can be best made on foot. Formerly belonging to the Carthusians, but now to the government. Cora. Fiorelli has recently collected within its walls a museum of majolicas, tapestry, glasses, mirrors, etc. For its decorations and richness the church is unsurpassed. Twelve different roses of Egyptian granite, a mosaic pavement, a high altar, and jiaintings render it superb. 38 NAPLES. Tlie vault has a painting of tlie Ascension, with the twelve apostles between the entrance (the Descent from the Cross is by Stauzioni) ; an unfinished Nativity by Guido Reni, who died whilst at work on the subject. In the teso7-o of the sacristy is Spagno- letto's masterpiece, the Descent from the Cross. The Judith on its vault, by Giordano, is said to have been painted in forty-eight hours when he was seventy-two years old. Grand views from the belvedere. THE CASTEL S. ELMO. (Permission, see page 8.) Formerly a simple tower, then a fortress, and now a barrack and prison. Contains numerous underground passages and vaults, where men were confined under the Bourbons. From the ramparts a most glorious panoramic view may be en- joyed. Descending hy the steps, or returning hy the same road hy which we came, to tlie Piazza Salvator Rosa, we turn to the right, down the new CORSO VITTORIO EMANUELB, the finest and most commanding drive of any town in Europe, skirting round the hills of S. Elmo and Posilipo — the far-famed bay, Vesuvius, and the city being interviewed and enjoyed with ease. It is two miles and a half long. THE INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL. " Visitors to Naples will be delighted to know that there is now a comfortable hosi^ital for them to fall back upon in the unfortunate event of their becoming ill. The new building for the old Inter- national Hospital, Villa Bentinck — at first only for a limited number of patients until the new additional wings are perfectly dry — is in a most salubrious and chai-ming situation, at the junction of the Corso Viitorio Emanuele and the new Via Tasso, on the slope of the Vomero. All the windows command splendid views of the Bay of Najiles or the surrounding hills. It has a large garden, full of flowers, orange and lemon trees, and on all sides are blossoming orchards and vineyards. The building to which the hospital is now removed was not obtained, nor the additional wrings and imjarove- ments carried out, without great financial saci'ifices. The capital bequeathed by the late Lady Bentinck for the purpose of building a new house was not entirely absorbed, but the committee had to take upon themselves the payment of the interest on a considerable KAMHLK II. 39 sum needed fur tlit> adaptation of the furnicr Villa Ivossi, now renamed Villa Beutiuck, to the uaes of a hospital. Tiie enlargements and improvements have been admirably executed by a resident Englisli engineer, Mr. Lamout Young. The report of the committee for the yeai* 1883 shows tliat the usefulness of the hospital is constantly increasing. In consequence of the change of house, etc., a deficit of 31,700 franca has now to be provided for, and the committee trust — considering the increase of patients and gratuitous consultations (given to three hundred and sixteen persons, of whom forty-two were English mariners), which have more than trebled since 1878, when the hospital was founded— that many societies and private persons who have profited by the institution may become liberal subscribers in future, and help the hospital through the serious financial diffi- culties it has now to overcome. The comfort, good mu'sing, and first- rate medical advice afforded by the institution to all travellei-s who may be ill while staying in Naples are beyond price. In an hotel a patient not only suff"ers from careless and insufficient nursing and ill- prepai'ed food, but he is put to extragavant expense and subject to many auuoj'ances, all of which are avoided if he takes refuge in case of sickness in the International Hospital. Many well-to-do travellei-s have passed safely and peacefully thi'ough severe illness under the afi"ectionate care of the resident physician, Dr. Malbranc, and have been so well satisfied with the care and comfort that surrounded them that they were almost sorry to leave the house ; and the latter fact is universally true of English sailors, who find a real home in the hospital under the kind superintendence of the directress, Miss Fellmann. The institution is worthy of all support from rich travellers, who, when ill in an hotel, are subject to the exorbitance of the proprietors and to a thousand other discomforts." "It may be well to mention the terms of the different classes, which include pension, medical advice, and nursing, etc. : — First class, 15 francs ; second class, 6 fiancs ; and third class, 2 francs 50 centesimi per day. Sailors pay a reduced price of 1 franc 80 cen- tesimi a day for the third class, and it is contemplated to receive them gratis in future. Admission is obtained through the British or American consul. Subscriptions from visitors for this good work are earnestly requested." At the end of the Corso Vlttorio Emannele we turn to the rigid, passing the Church of S. Maria di Piedigrotta. Between the smithy, Nos. 8 and 9, is a door leading to a flight of steps. In the vineyard above is 40 NAPLES. VIRGIL'S TOMB. Admission, 1 lira. The poet died at Brundisiiim 19 B.C., and expressed his desire to be buried on his estate at Posilipo, whei'e he had written the "Georgics" and part of the "^neid." Tradition says this is his tomb, and once contained this epitaph, by Virgil him- self, which was (1840) replaced by a modern copy : — IX MANTUA BORN, BUT IN CALABRIA BRED, FAIR NAPLES OWNS ME NOW : THE PASTORAL CHARGE, AND AGRICULTURAL TOILS, AND ARMS I SUNG. It is also stated that a stone was found here .some time since^ on wliich was the inscription — STOP, TRAVELLER, AND READ A FEW WORDS — HERE LIES MARO. The tomb is a chamber sixteen feet square, with a vaulted roof, and lighted by three windows. In the reticulated walls ai'e ten columbaria for cinerary urns. Virgil's is said to have stood in the centre, supi^orted by nine marble pillars. This was in 1326; but it has now entirely disappeared. In 1553 the following inscrip- tion was put up : — QUI CINERES 1 TUMULI H^C VESTIGIA : CONDITUR OLIM ILLE HIC QUI CECINIT PASCUA, RURA, DUCES. The view from the top of the tomb is uninteresting ; bvit from above the tomb, in the garden, a fine view may be had (see frontis- piece), which is thus described by the poet Statins ("Syl." iv. 4) : — " Lo ! idly wandering on the sea-beat strand, Where the famed Siren on Ausonia's land First moored her bark, I strike the sounding string ; At Virgil's honoured tomb I sit and sing. Warmed by the hallowed spot, my muse takes fire, And sweeps with bolder hand my humble lyre. These strains, Marcellus, on the Chalcian shores I penned, when great Vesuvius smokes and roars, And from his crater ruddy flames expires. With fury scarce surpassed by Etna's fires." Silius Italicus became possessed of this property and of the ad- joining Villa of Cicero. Pliny, jun. (iii. 6), tells us Silius starved himself to death here, and that " he celebrated the anniversary of Virgil's birth-day with more solemnity than his own, especially at 42 naplEkS. Naples, where he used to approach his tomb with as much veneration as if it had been a temple." Martial (xi. 51) says — " To honour Maro's dust and sacred shade One swain remained, deserted, poor, alone, Till Silius came his pious toils to aid In homage to a name scarce greater than his own." Descend from the tomb to the RIVIERA DI CHIAJA AND VILLA NAZIONALE. La C'hiaja, as it is called, is the finest street and the Eotten Eow of Naples. One side is occupied by houses, and the other by the National Park (Villa Nazionale), the favourite resort of visitors and natives. In the central path there is an antique basin from Pajstuni. All the sculptures are modern, as also the memorials to Virgil and Tasso. The municipal baud plays in the winter from 3 p.m. tiU 5, and in the summer till 9 p.m. In the grounds is The Aquarium, open from 9 till 5. Admission — summer, 1 lira ; tointer, 2 lire. RAMBLE III, TORUE DEL GKECO— TORRE DELL ANNUNZIATA— POMPEII— HISTORICAL NOTICES— THE DESTRUCTION OF POMPEII— SYNOPSIS OF RAMBLE- IMPRESSIONS— CAMALDOLI. TORRE DEL GRECO, on the coast, about 8 miles from Naples, has been repeatedly de- stroyed by Vesuvius. Under the lava of the eruptions of 79 and 1631, at Torre del Greco, have been discovered the remains of an aqueduct, a water reservoir, and a caldarium. The buildings seem to have formed part of thennce. Torre del Greco is noted for its coral manufactory, good air, and " Lachrymse Christi" wine, grown on the slopes of the volcano, and called from its quality the Tears of Christ. Beyond is TORRE DELL' ANNUNZIATA, 12 miles from Naples, and the junction of the Pompeii and Castella- mai'e line. There is nothing of interest in the town itself. POMPEIL By rail is the best way of getting to Pompeii; it is liheivise the least expensive. As the trains are liable to alterations, it is best to consult local time-tables. Fares, 5, Jf, and 2 lire return. Take lunch. Arriv- ing at the station, a path leads straight up to the entrance. On the left is the Hotel Diomede, a fair place for lunch, after seeing the ruins, if 44 poMPEir. you have not brought it with yon. Admission, including g^iide, S lire. Sundays free. It is well known to students that the exact date of the destruc- tion of Pompeii and Her culaneum has been disputed : some manu- scripts of Pliny's celebrated letters read " Nonum Kalend Septemb.," whicli would be August 23rd, 79 ; but one manuscript reads " Non November," which would be November 5th, 79. The earlier date was the more generally accepted one of the two, but the later date is now proved to be the correct one. Dion Cassias .says the eruption took place in the autumn, \vitho\it giving the exact date ; this is confirmed from the fact that fruits and nuts were found in the ruins which could not have been there if the city was destroyed in August. On the 11th of October 1889, outside the Porta Stabiana, the bodies of two men and a woman were found, and by them a tree. These objects were tieated in the usual way to obtain the casts, the tree showing remains of leaves and fruit. The botanist, Professor Fortunato Pasquale, examined tlie remains, and pronounces the tree to be a variety of the Laurus nohilis ; that is the arhuttis or nnedo or strawberry-tree, the fruit of which does not ripen till well into November. The fruit found was immature, and proves that the tree must have fallen early in November. The fruit consists of a small round red ball, the coat of which is somewhat rough. It grows in profusion at the Lakes of Killarney, and lijoens about Christmas. The fruit is sold in the streets of Rome in December, under the title of ccresa marine; in Florence the fruit is called corhezzola ; and at Siena, albatre. Pliny says (xxiii. 79) : "The arbutiis or unedo bears a fruit that is difficult of digestion and injurious to the stomach." " The fruit is held in no esteem, in proof of which it has gained its name of unedo {xmum edo, I eat but one), people being generally content with eating but one" (xv. 28). From this interesting discovery we are now certain that Pompeii was destroyed on November 5th, 79. BIBLIOGRAFIA DI POMPEI. The literature about Pompeii has been collated by Mr. F, Furchheim of Naples, and described in his " Bibliografia di Pompei Ei'colano e Stabia," 2ud edition, 1891. It contains over five hundred works in Latin, Italian, English, French, and German, 46 POMPEII. HISTORICAL NOTICES. Strabo (v. iv. 8) says, " Pumpeii, on tlie river Sarnus, was origi- nally held by the Osci, then by the Tyrrhenians and Pelasgians, then by the Samnites, who in their turn were expelled by the Romans. It is the port of Nola, Nuceria, and Acerrse, being situated on the river Sarnus, which is suited for the exportation and importation of cargoes." Tacitus ("Ann." xv. 22) records an earthquake in 63 a.d., from which it seems the town had not recovered at its final destruction. "Pompeii, a celebrated town of Campania, was overthrown by an earthquake." " Claudius lost his son Drusus at Pompeii when he was very young, he being choked with a pear, which in his play he tossed into the air and caught in his mouth" (Suetonius, "Claudius," xxvii.). " Pompeii, from which Mount Vesuvius may be .seen at no gi-eat distance, and which is watered by the river Sarnus " (Pliny, iii. 9). During the Catiline conspiracy, Publius Sylla established a military colony just outside the gate of Herculaneum, and this was augmented by Augustus, and called Pagus Augustus Felix. The settlement of this colony by Publius Sylla was one of the charges brought against him when he was defended by Cicero, who says (xxi.), " Though that colony was originally settled by Publius Sylla, and though the fortune of the Roman people has separated the interests of the settlers from the fortunes of the native citizens of Pompeii, he is still so popular among and so much beloved by both parties, that he seems not so much to have dispossessed the one party of their lands as to have settled both of them in that country." The grand catastrophe, which took place on November 5th, 79 A.D., is fortunately described to us by Pliny, jun., in his letters (vi. 17, 20) to Tacitus the historian. THE DESTRUCTION OF POMPEII. PLINY TO TACITUS. " Your request that I would send you an account of my uncle's death, in order to transmit a more exact relation of it to posterity, merits my acknowledgments ; for if the glorious circumstances which occasioned this accident shall be celebrated by your pen, the maimer of his exit will be rendered for ever illustrious. Notwitnstanding he perished by a misfortune, which, as it involved at the same time HAMBLi: III. 47 a most beautiful country in ruins, and destroyed so many populous cities, seems to promise him an everlasting remembrance ; notwith- standing he has himself composed many works which will descend to the latest times, yet I am persuaded the mentioning of hira in your immortal writings will greatly contribute to eternalize his name. Hapjiy I deem those to be whom the gods have distinguished with the abilities either of performing such actions as are worthy of being related, or of relating them in a manner worthy of being read. But doubly happy are they who ai'e blessed with both these un- common endowments ; and in that number my uncle, as his own writings and your history will prove, may justly be ranked. It is with extreme willingness, therefore, I execute your commands; and I should, indeed, have claimed the task if you had not en- joined it. " He wa.s at that time, with the fleet under his command, at Misenum. On the 5th of November, about one in the afternoon, my mother desired him to observe a cloud which appeared of a very unusual size and shape. He had just returned from enjoying the benefit of the sun, and after bathing in cold water and taking a slight repast, had retired to his study. He immediately arose and went out upon an eminence, from whence he might more distinctly view this very singular phenomenon. It was not at that distance tliscernible from what mountain this cloud issued, but it was found afterwards to proceed from Vesuvius. I cannot give you a more exact description of its figure than by resembling it to that of a pine tree ; for it shot up a great height in the form of a tall trunk, which spread at the top into soi't of branches, occasioned by, I suppose, either that the force of the internal vapour which impelled the cloud upwards decreased in strength as it advanced, or that the cloud, being 2>ressed back by its own weight, expanded itself in the manner I have mentioned. It appeared sometimes bright and sometimes dark and spotted, as it was either more or less impregnated with earth and cinders. This uncommon appearance excited mj"^ uncle's philosophical curiosity to take a nearer view of it. He accordingly ordered a light vessel to be prepared, and offered me the liberty, if I thought proper, to attend him. I rather chose to continue the employment in which I was engaged ; for it hap]3ened that he had given me a certain wn-itiug to copy. As he was going out of the house with his tablets in his hand, he was met by the mariners belonging to the galleys stationed at Retina, from which they had fled in the utmost terror ; for that port being situated at the foot of Vesuvius, they had no other way 48 POMPEII. to escape tliau by sea. They conjured him, therefoi-e, not to proceed and expose his life to imminent and inevitable danger. In com- pliance with their advice he changed his original intention, and instead of gratifying his philosophical spirit, he resigned it to the more magnanimous principle of aiding the distressed. With this view he ordered the fleet immediately to put to sea, and went him- self on board with an intention of assisting not only Retina, but the several other towns which stood thick upon that beautiful coast. Hastening to the place, therefore, from whence others fled with the utmost terror, he steered his direct course to the point of danger, and with so much calmness and presence of mind as to be able to make and dictate his observations uj^on the appearance and progress of that dreadful scene. He was now so near the mountain that the cinders, which grew thicker and hotter the more he advanced, fell into the ships, together with pumice-stones and black pieces of burning rock. They were likewise in dangei', not only of being aground by the sudden retreat of the sea, but also from the vast fragments which rolled down from the mountains and obstructed all the shore. Here he stopped to consider whether he should return back, to which the pilot advising him,—' Fortune,' said he, 'befriends the brave; steer to Pomponianus.' Pomponianus was then at Stabiae, separated by a gulf, which the sea, after several insensible windings, forms upon that shore. Pomponianus had already sent his bao-gage on board ; for though he was not at that time in actual danger, yet being within the view of it, and indeed extremely near, he was determined, if it should in the least increase, to put to sea as soon as the wind should change. It was favourable, however, for carrying my uncle to Pomponianus, whom he found in the greatest consternation ; and embracing him with tenderness, he encouraged and exhorted him to keep up his sjiirits. The more to dissipate his fears, he ordered his servants, with an air of unconcern, to carry him to the baths ; and after having bathed, he sat down to supper with great (or at least, what is equally hei'oic, with all the appeai'ance of) cheerfulness. " In the meanwhile, the fire from Vesuvius flamed forth from several parts of the mountain with great violence, which the dark- ness of the night contributed to render still more visible and dread- ful. But my uncle, in order to calm the apprehensions of his friend, assured him it was only the conflagration of the villages, which the country people had abandoned. After this he retired to rest, and it is most certain he was so little discomposed as to fall into a deep sleep ; for being corpulent and breathing hard, the attendants i;.\Mi;i,K in. 49 in tlie aute-chamber actually hoard liini siioro. Tlie court wliich led to his apaitmeuts being now almost tilled with stones and a.slies, it would have been impossible for liim, if he had continued there any longer, to have made his way out ; it was tliought proper, therefore, to awaken him. He got up and joined Pomponianus and the rest of the company, who had not been sutKcieutly unconcerned to think of going to bed. They consulted together wliether it would be most prudent to trust to the houses, which now shook from side to side with frequent and violent concussions, or flee to tlie open fields, where the calcined stones and cinders, thougli levigateil indeed, yet fell in large showers, and threatened them with instant destruction. In this distress they resolved for the fields aa the less dangerous situation of the two — a resolution which, while the rest of the company were hurried into by their fears, my uncle embraced upon cool and deliberate consideration. They went out, then, having pillows tied upon their heads with napkins, and this was thcii- whole defence against the storm of stones that fell around them. "It was now day everywhere else, but there a deeper darkness pre- vailed than in the blackest night, which, however, was in some degree dissipated by torches and other lights of varioirs kinds. They thought it expedient to go down further iii)on the shore, in order to observe if they might safely put out to sea ; but they found the waves still run- ning extremely high and boisterous. There my uncle, having drunk a draught or two of cold water, laid himself down upon a sailcloth which was spread for him, when immediately the flames, preceded by a strong smell of sulphur, dispersed the rest of the company and obliged him to rise. He raised himself up with the assistance of two of his servants, and instantly fell down dead — suftbcated, I conjecture, by some gi-oss and noxious vapour, having always had weak lung.s, and being frequently subject to a difliculty of breathing. As soon as it was light again, which was not till the third day after this melancholy accident, his body was found entire and without any marks of violence, exactly in the same posture as that in which he fell, and looking more like a man a.sleep than dead. During all this time my mother and I too were at ISIisenum. " But this has no connection with your history, as your inquiry went no further than concerning my uncle's death ; with that, there- fore, I will [mt an end to my letter. Suffer me only to add that I have faithfully related to you what I was either an eye-witness of myself or received immediately after the accident happened, and before there was time to vary the truth. You will choose out of this (10) 4 50 POMPEII. narrative such circumstances as shall be most suitable to your pur- pose ; for there is a great difference between writing a letter and composing a history, between addressing a friend and addressing the public. Farewell." " The letter, which in compliance with your request I wrote to you concerning the death of my uncle, has raised, it seems, your curiosity to know what terrors and dangers attended me while J continued at Misenum; for there, I think, the account in my former broke off. ' Thougli my shocked soul recoils my tongue shall tell.' " My uncle having left us, I continued the employment which prevented my going with him, till it was time to bathe, after which I went to su]>per, and then fell into a short and unquiet sleep. There had been during many days before some shocks of an earthquake, which the less alarmed us as they are frequent in Campania ; but they were so particularly violent that night that they not only shook everything about lis, but seemed indeed to threaten total destruction. My mother flew to my chamber, where she found me rising in order to awaken her. We went out into a small court belonging to the house, which separated the sea from the buildings. As I was at that time but eighteen years of age, I know not whether I should call my behaviour in this jaerilous conjuncture courage or rashness, but I took uj) Livy and amused myself with turning over that author, and. even making extracts from him, as if I had been perfectly at my ease. While we were in this situation, a friend of my uncle's, who was just come from Spain to pay him a visit, joined us, and observing me sitting by my mother with a book in my hand, reproved her patience and my security ; nevertheless, I still went on with my author. " It was now morning, but the light was exceedingly faint and languid. The buildings all around us tottered, and though M^e stood upon open ground, yet as the place was narrow and confined, there was no remaining without imminent danger ; we therefore resolved to leave the town. The people followed us in the utmost conster- nation, and (as to a mind distracted with terror every suggestion seems more prudent than its own) pressed in crowds about us in our way out. Being advanced at a convenient distance from the houses, we stood still in the midst of a most hazardous and tremendous scene. The chai-iots which we had ordered to be drawn out were so agitated backwards and forwards, though upon the most level ground, that we could not keep them steady, even by RAMULK III. 51 supporting them with large stones. The sea seemed to roll hack upon itself, and to be driven from its banks by the convulsive motion of the earth ; it is certaiii, at least, the shore was considerably enlarged, and several sea animals were left upon it. On the other side a black and dreadful cloud bui-sting with an igneous serpentine vapour darted out a long train of tire, resembling flashes of lightning, but much larger. Upon this our Spanish friend, whom I mentioned above, addressed himself to my mother and me with groat warmth and earnestness. ' If your brother and your uncle,' said he, ' is safe, he certainly wishes you may be so too ; but if he perislicd, it was his desire, no doubt, that you might both survive him. Why, therefore, do you delay your escape a moment ? ' ' We could never think of our own safety,' we replied, 'while we were uncertain of his;' upon which our friend left us and withdrew from the danger with the utmost precipitation. " Soon afterwards the cloud seemed to descend and cover the whole ocean, as indeed it entirely hid the island of Caprea and the pro- montory of Misenum. My mother conjured me to make my escape at any rate, which as I was young I might easily effect ; as for herself, she said, her age and cor})ulency rendered all attempts of that sort im- possible : however, she would willingly meet death if she could have the satisfaction of seeing that she was not the occasion of mine. But I absolutely refused to leave her, and taking her by the hand I led her on. She complied with great reluctance, and not without many reproaches to herself for being the occasion of retarding my flight. " The ashes now began to fall upon us, though in no great quantity. I turned my head, and observed behind us a thick smoke, which came rolling after us like a torrent. I pro})osed, while we had yet any light, to turn out of the highroad, lest she should be pressed to death in the dark by the crowd that followed us. We had scarcely stepped out of the path when darkness oversjjrcad us, not like that of a cloudy night, or when there is no moon, but like that of a room when it is shut uj) and all the lights extinct. Nothing then was to be heard but the shrieks of women, the screams of children, and the cries of men — some calling for their children, others for their parents, others for their husbands, and only dis- tinguishing each other by their voices ; one lamenting his own fate, another that of his family ; some wishing to die from the very fear of dying ; some lifting their hands to the gods ; but the greater part imagining that the last and eternal night was come which was to destroy both the gods and the world togethex". Among these 52 POMPEII. there were some wlio augmenteil the real terrors by imaginary ones, and made the frighted multitude falsely believe that Misenum was actually in flames. At length a glinunering light appeared, which we imagined to be rather the forerunner of an approaching burst of flames (as in fact it was) than the return of day ; however, the fire fell at a distance from us. Then again we were immersed in thick darkness, and a heavy shower of ashes rained upon us, which we were obliged every now and then to shake oft', otherwise we should have been overwhelmed and buried in the heap. " I might boast that during all this scene of hori'or not a sigh or expression of fear escaped from me, had not my support been founded on that miserable though strong consolation that all mankind were involved in the same calamity, and that I imagined I was ])erishing with the world itself. "At last this tei'rible darkness was dissipated by degrees like a cloud or smoke. The real day retnrned, and even the sun appeared, though very faintly, and as when an ecli^jse is coming on. Every object that presented itself to our eyes (which were extremely weakened) seemed changed, being covered with white ashes as with a deep snow. We returned to Misenum, where we refreshed our- selves as well as we could, and passed an anxious night between hope and fear, — though, indeed^, with a much larger share of the latter; for the earth still continued to shake, while several enthu- siastic persons ran wildly among the people, throwing out terrifying predictions, or making a kind of frantic sport of their own and their friends' wretched situation. However, my mother and 1, notwithstanding the danger we had passed, and that which still threatened us, had no intention of leaving Misenum till we should receive some account of my uncle. "And now you will read tiiis narrative without any view of in- serting it in your history, of which it is by no means worthy ; and, indeed, you must impute it to your own request if it should appear not to deserve even the trouble of a lettei\ Farewell." A RAMBLE THROUGH THE CITY OF THE DEAD. Traces of the buried city were first discovered in 1689, but excava- tions were not commenced till 1721. They were carried on at irregular intervals till Naples was added to the rest of United Italy, when Signor Fiorelli was appointed director of the excavations. Since then the works have been and are being actively carried on. Every day fresh and interesting discoveries are made. c»PuA Gure f foauu 8 rcMPic 0' juPi'o 9 D/INTHCON 10 TOWN MAlt It Ttr^PLf OF HiOCjny I! CuaiCIDiCUM li t/fw COUKri J/ MOoscorxcicc'.ius la TRIJINGUlAt fC^U^ /« reupu or isis aic TMt^rai 21 come ThC»11C 2i VJtSON.C HIIL 29 HOUSE Of C fiuru^ 2a /iMPHiTHi/iriit 2J "ouse or e auru'^ i> "Ousc or ocnB • Houic c'n.Luoiriui • "VLSI 0' OPPneui "OuitO'JUCUNOUi 1 "Ouse or rau I I riMPii or ror-ruNC ' snTHS I TRACiC POt' t LARGE MOSAIC rOUHTAIM I SMAUMOSAIC lOUN "OUil or PAHSA MOOSE or iALLUST i HOUSE or i/ESTALS } roMB or MA MIA • roMB or scAAus <■ rOMB or TrCUE I rO"B or CALVENTIU I- or oiOfiDis "B or OiOit OES r rouB or LABEON KA.MULK 111. 53 The ruiued cit}- is divided into insula; islands ; and nyioni, regions. There are nine regioni, and e.ich block of Iniildings is called au insula ; these are all numbered. Vesuvius Gate. SKETCH MAP OF TIIF. REOIOXI OF POJIl'EIt. SYNOPSIS OF PRINCIPAL SIGHTS. The following itinerary includes all the most interesting object.", and is the one generally followed by the guides, Avho give full information on the various points visited. The numbers refer to the position of the places on our plan, and on the official map. 1. The Porta Marina, or ancient sea-gate of Pompeii, is the one by which at present the city is entered. The gate had one entrance for carriages and another for foot-passengers. 2. The Local Museuji is on the right. Hei-e are several models and small objects found in the excavations ; also several figures in plaster of the bodies found amidst the ruins. The bodies were found encased in ashes. A small hole was made, then the plaster was poured in, and the coating of ashes broken off : the result was a model of the person killed. Turning down a line on the right brings us to the latest excava- tions of the eighth region. Some oV)jects of interest were discovered, but perhaps the one which has called fortli the largest amoiuit of erudition w;is a fresco, the subject of which seems identical with the judgment of Solomon. In tliis mural jiainting the figures are all 54 POMPEII. pigmies. lu the centre is a bench with three judges ; kneeling at their feet, in an attitude of prayer, is a woman ; further towards the foreground is a butcher's table, and upon it a naked babe, which a man is preparing to kill with a lai'ge knife, while beside him stands a second woman with an indifferent air. Soldiers and peojile close the scene. (See page 20.) This fresco has been removed to the museum at Naples. The house is small, and may have belonged to a Jew ; hence the subject of the painting, which as a work of art has no value. In the vicinity a garden has been laid bare. There are indications PLASTER CAST OF HUMAN BODY. of the flower-beds and walks, but the most interesting find was the form of a man encased with what was at the time of his death liquid mud. Plaster of Paris was poured into the space once occupied by the body, and on taking aw^ay the volcanic mould it was seen that the man was in the act of fleeing when overtaken in tlie current. Two keys which he was carrying fell from his hand as it relaxed in the death-throes. He had the usual girdle round his waist, and his loins were girded up to facilitate his flight. " The skeleton of a woman with a child was discovered at Pompeii in the narrow street which bounds on the north Insula 7 of Regione 8, about twelve feet above the level of the ancient pavement — that is 56 POMPEII. to say, where the layers of hiva end and those of ashes begin. It is well knowii that the catastrojohe of 79 a.d. commenced with a thick shower of small pumice-stones, by which tlie streets and open squares of Pompeii were covered up to the roofs of the houses. Stones were succeeded by ashes, which became solid owing to the action of successive showers of boiling water, and these ashes now form the top layer of the materials which cover the ruins of Pompeii. Most of the unhappy beings who remained in the houses after the eruption first reached the town, and who found, when the shower of stones was over, that no deliverance was possible except in flight, made their escape through the windows, the doors having been blocked by the stones and lava. But, so far as we can judge from the excavations, the greater part of these fugitives could have taken but few steps, and must have been quickly suffocated by the poisonous fumes. The hot ashes and water covered their bodies in such a way as to make an exact cast ; and after the flesh had shrunk away, the im- pression made by the corpses still remains as they fell struck down by death. The Senatore Fiorelli conceived the happy idea of takhig plaster casts of the impressions, and thus reproduced the figures to be seen in the Pompeii Museum, which have been copied into most of the books that describe the antiquities of the buried city. It was not always found possible to obtain a perfect cast, because in many instances a portion of the body was resting on the stones, where of course it left no impression. Unfortunately this is the case with the two skeletons lately discovered, the larger of which, that of the woman, is almost entirely embedded in the layer of stones. One arm only has left an imj^ression on the ashes, and with this arm she was clasping the legs of tlie child, the greater poi'tion of whose body hixs been modelled, showing considerable contraction in the arms anfl legs, and a general emaciation; which lead us to suppose that the child must have been very ill. It is believed that it was a little boy about ten years of age. Doubtless the woman was the mother of the child, and we can hardly suppose that she would have carried him had he not been unable to walk. Some jewels found on the female skeleton indicate a person of condition. Two bracelets of gold en- circled the arm which held the boy, and on the hand were two gold rings, the one set with an emerald, on which is engraved a horn of plenty, and the other with an amethyst bearing a head of Mercury cut in i/itaglio." 5. The Basilica, built of opus incertum in bands of brick. This building is not a basilica, but a portico, probably for the same use ^\ ' 58 POMPEII. as the Poecile Stoa, or painted portico, at Athens ; it is a peristylium with no rooms off it. The platform at the end cannot be ascended, and was not a tribunal, but probably dedicated to a divinity : the legs of a bronze statue were found. Basilicee had flat roofs ; this had none. In the open space in front of the columns is the altar. The building is 220 feet long by 80 feet wide, and has nothing in com- mon with a basilica. A graphite or wall-scratch says, "C. Puniidius Dipilus was here on the third of October, in the consulship of Lepi- dus and Catulus," This gives us the date 79 B.C., and shows the building is older than that. The columns were formed of brick coated over with plaster. Undei' the platform is a small chamber, miscalled a prison. 6. Temple of Venus. — It was siu-roimded with a Doric portico, which has been changed into an Ionic portico. In the cella stands the pedestal of the statue now in Naples. The altar bears the names of the magistrates who erected it — Marcus Porcius, Lucius Sestilius, with the aediles Gneius and Aulus Cornelius. The sun- dial — column to the left in ascending the steps of tlie temple — was erected by the duumvirs Lucius Sepunius and Marcus Herennius. The following inscription found here records some repairs and alterations : — MARCUS HOLCONIUS RUFUS AND CAIUS IGNATUS POSTHUMUS, DE- CEMVIRS OF JUSTICE THIRD TIME, BY A PECREE OF THE DECURIONS BOUGHT THE RIGHT OF CLOSING THE OPENINGS FOR 3000 SESTERCES, AND ERECTED A WALL AS HIGH AS THE ROOF TO THE COLLEGE OF THE INCORPORATED VENEREL On the threshold of the cella — a copy of the original, now in the Naples JNIuseum — are some dots sujiposed to correspond with Oscan letters, which would read : The Qu8estor Oppius CamporuiMS, by sanction of the council, permitted this pavement to be done by the treasury of Apollo. Hence it is supposed that this temple was dedicated to Apollo. Why not to Apollo and Venus 1 The statue of Venus, the bronze Apollo, and the oracular Diana, were all found here ; and the conical stone, the symbol of the Apollo, as represent- ing the sun, is still to be seen in the cella. 7. The Forum, or market-place, is of considerable extent, and was surrounded by a Doric colonnade which supported a balcony. Around were the public offices and temples. There are several frescoes in the Museum at Naples, A^ery badl\' done, representing various scenes in the Forum. 8. The Temple of Jupiter occupies one end of the Forum, from 60 POMPEII. which it was approached by a flight at steps. This temple was greatly damaged by the earthquake of 63, and was undergoing restoration at the time of the final destruction. From the top there is a fine view over the city. At either side were arches giving entrance to the Forum. This end of the Forum is shown, after the earthquake, upon an altar in the house of Lucius Caecilius Jucundus. (See page 67.) 9. The Pantheox, or Temple of Augustus. His statue stood in the centre of the court, surrounded with the statues of the twelve great gods. The cells on the right were for the priests. The walls were covered with frescoes. This inscription was found, — • ...AMINI . AVGVSTALI . SODALI AVGVSTALI . Q. An altar relating to the worship of Augustus, bearing the name of the consuls for a.d. 3, came to light in 1890. A . A . p . R . D . D GRATVS . C^SAR I . MINIST . IVSSV Q COTRI . D . V . I . D C . ANNI . marvl: D . ALFIDI . HYPSAL D.V.V.A.S.P.P M . SERVILIO . L . .15L10 COS 10. The Hall of the Town Council, for the meetings of the city magistrates. 11. Temple of Mercury.— In the centre is the marble altar, with a relief representing a sacrifice. It is now used as a depository for small objects found in excavating : many are interesting. 12. Chalcidicum of Eumachia, or Guild Hall of the Fullers. Erected by Eumachia the priestess and her son, and dedicated to Concord and Pieta Augusta. Inscription over entrance to the Chalcidicum from the Street of Abundance, — eumachia, daughter of LUCIUS, public priestess, in her name AND THAT OF HER SON, M. NUMISTRUS FRONTO, MADE THIS CHALCIDICUM AND CRYPTO -PORTICO AT HER EXPENSE, AND DEDICATED THE SAME TO CONCORD AND PIETA AUGUSTA. The niches in the front towards the Forum contained s*"atues of -.■Eneas, Eomulus, C'a?sar, and Augustus, with the following inscrip- tions : — 62 POMPKII. .ENEAS, SON OF VENUS AND ANCKISES, BROUGHT TO ITALY THE SURVIVORS OF THE TROJAN WAR. BUILT THE CITY OF LAVINIA, AND REIGNED THERE THREE YEARS. AFTERWARDS, WHEN A BATTLE HAD BEEN FOUGHT, HE VANISHED, AND M'AS TAKEN INTO THE NUMBER OF THE GODS. ROMULUS, THE SON OF MARS, BUILT ROME, AND REIGNED THIRTY- EIGHT YEARS. HE SLEW ACRON, KING OF THE CANENSI, AND DEDICATED THE SPOIL TO JUPITER FERETRIUS. WHEN HE WAS RECEIVED INTO THE NUMBER OF THE GODS HE WAS NAMED QUIRINUS. 13. The Law Courts consist of three halls. The brickwork con- struction of these halls is the best in Pompeii, and of the time of Nero. New Excavations. — Proceeding by the side of the Law Courts, by the Vicolo della Regina, we come to the new excavations at the city limits on this side. The houses are built against the cliff ; one is three stories high. In one of the rooms is a large fountain — the walls of the room being frescoed — and above the fountain is a pic- ture of the river-god Sarnus, with a copious stream of water flowing from a vase. House of the Gladiators. — We so name this house because on the threshold are two gladiators in black and white mosaic. The wall at the end of the atrium represents the back-scene of a theatre, with gladiators in various pose. One figure carries a palm-branch, whilst the figure of Wingless Victory is on the left ; Fame, blowing her trumpet, being in a balcony on the right. Return to 14. Street of Abundance. — So called from the fountain with head and cornucopia. It was one of the principal streets in the city. 31. House of Holconius. — Beautifully decorated, and with a grand peristyle. 18. The Triangular Forum.— So called from its shape ; sur- rounded by a Doric portico of a hundred columns. The Temple of Hercules occupies the centre, and was approached by a flight of steps. It is considered from its construction to be the oldest temple in the city. In front is the Puteal Numerii, erected over the spot where a thunderbolt had fallen, by the magistrate Numerius Trebius. 24. Temple of Isis.— Restored after the earthquake of 63 by Popidius Celsinus, a boy of six. (For details of the worship see Bulwer.) Here was found the skeleton of the priest with the axe ; also the following inscription : — RAMBLK III. 63 NUMERINUS POPIDIUS CELSINUS, SOX OF NUMERINUS, — THE TEMPLE OF ISIS HAVING FALLEN FROM AN EARTHQUAKE, RE.ST9RED IT FROM THE FOUNDATIONS AT HIS OWN EXPENSE. THE DECURION.S, ON ACCOUNT OF HIS LIBERALITY, ELECTED HIM, WITHOUT FEES, TO BE ONE OF THEIR ORDER AT THE AGE OF SIX. The Curia Isiaca is a Doric iwi-tico, behind the temple, 79 feet by 57 feet. At the end is a tribunal ascended to by well-worn stairs. Adjoining it are three cells. The name of the builder is recorded in the inscription : — M. MARCUS HOLCONIUS, SON OF RUFUS THE .SWIFT, BUILT THE CRYPT, TRIBUNAL, AND THEATRE AT HIS OWN EXPENSE, FOR THE HONOUR OF THE COLONY. 19. Tragic Theatre, containing twentyeiuht tiers of seats. It held 5,000 spectatoi's. Upon the first step of the second row of seats the inscription informs us there was a bisellium, or chair of honour. to MARCUS HOLCONIUS RUFUS, SON OF VIBIUS. FIVE TIMES DUUMVIR, TWO OF THEM QUINQUENNIAL. MILITARY TRIBUNE, ELECTED BY THE PEOPLE. PRIEST OF AUGUSTUS, FATHER OF THE COLONY. ERECTED BY A DECREE OF THE DECURIONS. Being built against the side of a hill, the people entered at the top, and descended to their seats. It was covered occasionally with an awning for the protection of the audience. The holes which supported the masts can be seen on the outside. 20. Gladiators' Barracks, round a large square with a colon- nade all round. 21. Comic Theatre. — The inscription says it was roofed in. It held 1,500 people. Over door 19 Stabian Street is the inscription, — CAIUS QUINCTIUS VALGUS, SON OF CAIUS, AND MARCUS PORCIUS, SON OF MARCUS, DUUMVIRS, BY A DECREE OF THE DECURIONS CONTRACTED AND ERECTED THE COVERED THEATRE, AND THE SAME APPROVED IT. The pavement of the orchestra is of beautiful coloured marble, the name of the donor being inserted in bronze, — MARCUS OCULATIUS VERUS, SON OF MARCUS, DUUMVIR OF THE GAMES. The original bronze letters were stolen, and in replacing them they put the name Holconius. 22. Porta Stabiana.— The oldest gate in the walls of Pompeii ; constructed with irregular stones from the inver Saruus. The 64 POMPEII. vaulted arch has been restored. On the outside of the gate is tliis inscription in Latin, — AVIANUS AND SPEDIUS, THE DUUMVIRS, PAVED THE ROAD FROM THE MILESTONE TO GISIARII, WHICH WAS ON THE CONFINES OF THE POM- PEIAN TERRITORY, AT THEIR OWN EXPENSE. From here ive make a digression out of the usual route to the neigh- bourhood of the Stahian Gate, to the Leather Manufactory {Officina Coriarioru'in), adjoining ichich, and interesting only to some, is 23. The Masonic Hall. — From the arrangement of this hall there is no doubt in our minds that here we have preserved an ancient lodge-room. The number of the columns down two sides, the two columns in advance, the position of the pedestal upon which was found the mosaic now in the Naples Museum (see page 13), the small room within the lodge, and sci'atchings upon the walls, all go to con- firm our belief. jYote certain marks and scratches on the wall of the house in the street. A flight of steps leads from the hall into a garden. 25. Shrine of the Benign Jupiter (amiable or propitious). — At the corner of the Via Sfcabia, No. 25. and the Via Tempio d'Iside, is a small shrine, in which was found the terra-cotta statue of Jupiter now in the Naples Museum. In the small enclosure is a well-preserved altar, and then a flight of steps leading up to the cella. Behind it is the Temple of Isis. Over the inside of the Porta Stabia is an Oscan inscription, being a copy of the original now preserved in the Naples Museum. From it we learn the title of the shrine. It reads : — the ^DILES PUBLIUS SITTUS, son of MARCUS, AND NUMERIUS PON- TIUS, SON OF PUBLIUS, LAID DOWN THE LIMITS OF THIS STREET, AND FIXED THE TERMINUS OF IT TEN FEET OUTSIDE THE STABIAN GATE. THEY ALSO FIXED THE LIMITS OF THE VIA POMPEIANA [uOW Called Via Stabia] three feet before the enclosure of jupiter melichius. THESE streets, AS WELL AS THE JOVIA [Via Amfiteatro] AND DECU- MANA [Via Tempio d'Iside], were constructed by the public SLAVES of POMPEII UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE SURVEYORS OF THE STREETS, WHICH WAS APPROVED OF BY THE SAME /EDILES. 29. House of Cornelius Rufus, containing his bust and the pedestals of two marble tables. 28. The Amphitheatre is at some little distance from the present excavations at one corner of the city. It is of the Piepublican period, contained 12,800 spectators, and is 400 feet long and 114 wide. It had 35 rows of seats. The historian Tacitus ("Annals," xiv. 17) gives us an interesting account of a scene that took place here 59 a.d. : — (10) 66 POMPEII. CAirPANI VICTORIA. "About this time a dreadful fray broke out between the inhabitants of Nuceria and Pompeii. Livineius Reguhis gave a spectacle of gladiators. An altercation arose, stones were thrown, and finally they had recourse to arms. The people of Pompeii, where the spectacle was given, were too strong for their adversaries. The people of Nuceria suffered in the conflict, and many were conveyed to Rome wounded and mutilated. Many also bewailed the deaths of sons and fathers. The inquiry into this affair was left by Nero to the senate, and by them to the consuls ; and on their report upon the merits of the case to the fathers, they punished the Pompeians by forbidding their games for ten years." The truth of this piece of history has been proved in two different ways. Scratched on the wall of a house in the Street of Mercury is an armed figure descenduig the steps of the amphitheatre, bearing in his right hand a 25alm branch, emblem of victory. Underneath is written, — CAMPANIANS, YOU PERISH IN VICTORY, TOGETHER WITH THE NUCERIANS. And on the walls of a house in the street of Stabia was found a fresco — now removed to the Museum at Naples — representing the amphitheatre with people fighting in and around it, exactly illus- trating the above passage in Tacitus. (See page 21.) There has recently been found outside the Nuceria gate an in- scription stating that twenty-two pairs of gladiators, of the priest of Augustus, will fight at Nuceiia on the 8th of May, in honour of the power of Augustus, NVMINI AVGVSTI GLAD . PAR . XXII . VENATIO . DAIOMPEI . FLAMINIS . AVGVSTALIS . PVGNAB . CONSTANT . NVCER . Ill . PR . NGN . NONIS . VIII . EIDVS . EIDVS . MAIAS . NVCERINI . OFFICIA . MEA . CERTO . INAI . 27. House of Epidius Eufus, with a handsome atrium and chapel of the household gods. 30. The Stabian Baths. — The oldest baths in the city, used for both men and women. Here we have the complete system of the Roman thermce. These baths are usually entered from the Street of Abundance, and are sometimes called the New Baths. HAMBLK HI. 67 The inscription preserved in the Museum at Naples records cer- tain restorations : — CAIUS ULIUS, SON OF CAIUS, AND PUBLIUS ANIMUS, SON OF CAIUS, DUUMVIRS OF JUSTICE, BY A DECREE OF THE DECURIONS CAUSED TO BE ERECTED, WITH THE MONEY WHICH BY LAW THEY WERE TO EXPEND ON THE GAMES OR PUBLIC MONUMENTS, THE LACONICUM [sWEATING-ROOm] AND DESTRICTARIUM [sCRAPING-ROOM], and RESTORED THE PORTICO AND PALESTRA : WHO APPROVED THE SAME. We enter the peristylium, formed with fluted Doric cokimns, which was used as a pala?stra for athletic sports. On one side is the Frigidarium, or cold bath, communicating with the Tepidarium, or warm room, and the Apodyterium, or dressing-room. On the op- posite side is the Spoliarium, or unrobing-room, with niches and seats, l>aving a fountain at the end. From here we enter the Suda- torium, or sweating-room. Beyond is the Calidarium, or hot bath. These baths are double, being both for men and women. They were highly decorated with frescoes and stucco. 37. House of the Bear. — So called from the wounded bear re- presented on the mosaic pavement. He has been transfixed with a spear, which remains in the wound. His blood flows on to the pavement. Over his back is tlie word have, used as a sign of salu- tation, from tlie verb avere, to be joyful (Cicero, " Ep. Fam." viii. xvi. 4 ; Martial, " Ep." i. Ivi. 6). 40. House of Marcus Lucretius, a flamen of Mars and decurion of Pompeii. In the garden is a fountain down which the water flowed into a circular basin. Around are various animals in marble. RECENT EXCAVATIONS. Extensive baths and some houses have been excavated within the last few years on the right of the Street of Nola, turning out of the Stabian Street. The most interesting are the following : — Casa del Centenario. — The House of the Centenary is so called because it was found on the eighteen hundredth anniversary of the destruction of the city. It is one of the most important yet exca- vated, forming a complete isola, or block by itself. It has several entrances. Entering the grand peristylium, we notice the remains of the fountain with its bi'onze tap. Here was found the beautiful bronze statuette of the Faun now in the Naples Museum. On one of the columns of the peristylium are scratched the letters iivbvilo. This house, like many others at tlie time of the destruction of the city, was undergoing repairs — one of the sides of the peristylium being left unfrescoed, the other beiiicr finished. In the fountain the 68 POMPEII. remains of fish were found. Off the sides of the inner peristylium are rooms frescoed. One on the right has frescoes on a white ground of beasts fighting, and below comical scenes of boys on stilts. Another has a yellow ground with doves and flowers. O/i the left are beautiful frescoes on a black ground ; and another small room has Egyptian figures on a white ground, the bottom panels being ferns, acanthus plants, and dog lilies. In the end room are theatri- cal scenes and a large fresco of Neptune. The following inscription on one of the street walls advertises an entertainment in the amphitheatre : — " Twenty pairs of gladiators, at the expense of Decimus Lucretius Satrius Valens, priest, in the consulship of Nero, son of Csesar Augustus, and ten pairs of gladiators, at the expense of Decimus Lucretius, son of Decimus Valens, will fight at Pompeii on the 10th, 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th of April. There will be a complete hunting scene, and the awnings will be spread. — Written by Celer. Eniilius Celer, the inscription writer, made this by moonlight." Casa dello Specchio. — In another house close by the above are represented the siege of Troy, with men hauling the famous white horse ; the story of Perseus and Andromeda ; peacocks, etc. In the wall near the entrance is inserted a piece of looking-glass, held to the plaster by four nails. It is discoloured by the action of heat and earth, but its use is obvious. Casa dell' Abbondanza. — In the same vicinity a house has been uncovered which we will call the House of Abundance, from the statuette in bronze found in a niche entering into the peristylium, and which is now in the Naples Museum. Another bronze statuette was also found here of a Cupid witli a dolphin on his shoulder. This served for the fountain in the peristylium. The frescoes here are Ariadne abandoned, and other mythological stories. We called attention,* soon after its excavation, to a curious piece of architectural detail in the peristylium of this house — in the fact that from the columns of the peristylium arches spring direct from the capitals to support the covered portico which surrounds the court. This style of construction was generally supposed to date from the time of Diocletian (284-305), till we called attention to the fact that it exists here in a house built before a.d. 63. Casa della Fontana in Musaico. — Another house close by con- tains a beautiful fountain in yellow, white, green, and blue mosaic, nautilus pattern, with bands of cockle-shells ; whilst around the * See The Builder, July 4, 1S81. RAMBLE III. 69 walls are all kinds of tish swimming in clear water, and above them are animals fighting, the panels being divided by caryatides. An excavation made in the })reseuce of the Russian (4i'and Dukes (1881) brought to light a beautiful fountain in blue mosaic. At the top is the figure of Venus rising out of a shell, deer and leopards drawing cars ; whilst at the sides are birds and figures, all exquisitely finished. On the left of the street a house was excavated in September 1883, and the government have roofed it in, in order to preserve the frescoes in situ. On the right of the peristylium, in a small frescoed chamber, is a good fresco of Apollo and Venus, with two females attending her. The head of the goddess is curiously reflected in the water. On the opposite side of the court, in another room, is Leda and the Swan. 46. House of Orpheus. — So called from the fresco. Nearly opposite is the * House of Lucius Cecilius Jucuxdus. — On the threshold is a dog in mosaic — Cave canem. The proprietor was a banker. Scratched on one of the walls is this inscription in Latin : '.' May he who loves do well. May he who does not know how to love perish. Twice perish he who forbids to love." In the atrium of the house of Lucius Coscilius Jucundus the base of a family altar has been found, which is interesting from the build- ings sculptured on one of its marble panels, showing the topography of the northern part of the Forum at Pompeii. A triumphal arch, the Temple of Jupiter, with pedestals on each side surmounted by equestrian statues, a flight of steps upon which an altar is burning, a vase upon a, patera, an altar upon which there is a victim, a female bust beneath a canoiDy, and a man leading a bull to sacrifice, are represented. These buildings are presented to the view as crooked, and are supposed to refer to the earthquake of 63 a.d., the sacrifices being offered to the gods to appease their wrath. (See pages 58, 8.) The tabellce or records found in this house have been vnirolled and deciphered. A great number have been successfully treated. Great praise is due to the various gentlemen who have by their [)atience and learning thus preserved these interesting records. (See page 26.) House of the Poets. — Passing through the house of Jucundus we come to that part of the city which is now being excavated. There is a small niche at the entrance dedicated to Hercules, and containing a representation of that hero in fresco ; a small bronze statuette was also found. Upon the walls of one of the rooms two portraits were found vis-d-vis of youthful heads crowned with bav 70 POMPEII. wreaths, with rolls in their hands. On one is a tablet with the name Homer, upon the other Sappho : they are of course ideal. They have been removed to the Museum at Naples. (See page 21.) There are some glass windows in this house, and quite a modern w.-c. 53. House of the Faun. — The finest house in Pompeii, in which everything found was classical. It was the house of Arbaces the Egyptian. 55. Temple of Fortune. — Erected by Marcus Tullius in the reign of Augustus. Inside the niche is the inscription — AVGVSTVS C^SAR . FATHER OF HIS COUNTRY. And on the architrave — MARCUS TULLTUS, SON OF MARCUS, DUUMVIR, QUINQUENNIAL FOR THE THIRD TIME, AUGUR, MILITARY TRIBUNE, ELECTED BY THE PEOPLE, BUILT FROM THE GROUND, AT HIS OWN EXPENSE, THE TEMPLE OF FORTUNE AUGUSTUS. To the right we pass under the Triumphal Arch of Nero, formerly cased in marble and sur- mounted by the bronze equestrian statue now in the Museum at Naples. PERISTYLIUM. APODYTEEIUM. TEPIDARIUM. SUDATORIUM. CALIDARIUM. t*J Street of Fortune. PUBLIC BATHS AT POMPEII. 67. Public Baths. — Though rather small, sometimes called the For- tunse Thermse, because generally entered from the Street of Fortune. 72 POMPEII. A corridor (fauces) gives access {left) to an open court, surroumled with Doric columns (perist^lium), used for athletic sports {palceslrce). On the left is the unrobing chamber {apodyterium) ; the holes in the walls were for the wooden pegs. The walls were frescoed in yellow ; the cornice Egyptian in character, with a carved frieze of lyres, dolphins, chimserse, and vases upon a red ground. The niche at one THE calidariu:m. end was covered with glass, and held a lamp ; above was a glass window, 2 feet 8 inches by 3 feet 8 inches, having one plate of cast glass two-fifths of an inch thick, ground on one side. Beneath is a mask with tritons and dolphins. The floor is white mosaic. From here we enter the Tepidariuji or warm chamber. In the walls are a number of niclies divided by atlases or tela- mones (from the Greek Ti^Avat, to endure) of teri'a-cotta, painted flesh colour, with black hair and beards. These niches were for the EAMRLE III. 73 clothes, and frescoed in imitation of purpliyry. The vault is in stucco, with low relief of flying genii and foliage, arid a red and blue ground. A window, 2 feet G inches by 3 feet, held a bronze frame holding four panes of glass. Beneath is a bronze brazier 7 feet by 2 feet 6 inches, having the front legs of winged sphinxes, with lion's paws. In the centre of the front is a cow in relief. Three bronze THE KKIUIDAIHU-M. seats were also found with cows' heads at the top of the legs, and cloven hoofs for the feet. Upon them is the inscription— M. NIOIDIUS . VACCULAS . P.S. The cow was evidently his coat-of-arms — a ]uni upon his name, derived from his ancestors being cowkcepers. A door leads into the Sudatorium or sweating-room, containing at one end the calidarium or hot-water bath, and at the opposite end, in 74 POMPEII. an apse, the circular labrum or wiishing-tub. Withiu it is tlie bronze inscription — GN^US MELISS.EUS, SON OF GN^US APER ; MARCUS STAICTS, SON OF RUFUS, DUUMVIRS FOR THE SECOND TIME, BY DECREE OF THE DECURIONS, MADE THIS LABRUM AT THE PUBLIC EXPENSE. IT COST 750 SESTERCES. [About £6] A circular opening 1 foot 6 inches in diameter admitted fresh air through the vault above ; square windows gave light. From the apodyterium we reach the Frigidarium or cold plunge bath. This is a circular chamber with yellow stucco, the vault being a truncated cone frescoed blue, with a window for emitting light. The cornice of red stucco represents chariot races by cupids. The dado is of marble, and the walls are pierced with four niches having seats. In the centre is a depressed basin, 12 feet 10 inches in diameter, and 2 feet 9 inches deep. This was entered by two marble steps. A bronze spout supplied the water, and a waste-pipe carried it off. This was the department for the men ; that for the women adjoins, and is similar in its arrangements. The same set of furnaces supplied both, but there was no communication between the two departments. These baths were originally erected in the time of P. Sylla, and the construction shows that they were repaired at later dates. There is a scratching on the wall (^riglit in entering) of the peristylium referring to the dedication — ON THE dedication OF THE BATHS, AT THE EXPENSE OF CN^US ALLEIUS NIGIDIUS MAIUS, THERE WILL BE A HUNT, ATHLETIC SPORTS, SHOWERING OF PERFUMES, AND AN AWNING (aT TPIE AMPHITHEATRE). PROSPERITY TO MAIUS, CHIEF OF THE COLONY. 68. House of the Tragic Poet, or of Glaucus in Bulwer's " Last Days of Pompeii." It once contained some good frescoes, now in the museum at Naples. One of the most elegant houses yet found. 58. House of the large Mosaic Fountain. — In the form of an apse. The water poured from the mask down the steps into the basin ; the masks on the sides served for lamps at night. 59. House of the small Mosaic Fountain. — The water issued from the swan held by the genius. 69. The House of Pansa is a good specimen of a Eoman house. He was sedile of the city, and is one of Bulwer's characters. In the Street of the Baths PLAN OF THE HOUSE OF PANSA. HAMHLK III. I / kitchen is a fresco of tlie worship offered to tlie Tjures. Adjoining are a bakery and mill. Veuus's hair now grows inf tlie oven. This was named the House of tansa from the graphite Paxsam JEd, scratched on one of the walls ; but further I'esearch brought to light an inscription showing that the property belonged to a certain Maius, TO LET, FOR THE CALENDS OF JULY, SllOrS, WITH THEIR TERRACE, CABINETS, ETC. ADDRESS — PRIMUS, SLAVE OF CN.EUS ALLEIUS NIGIDIUS MAIUS. In order that our readers may fully understand the aiTangement of a Pompeian house of the better sort, we present them with a plan of the House of Pansa, which occupies a block by itself, 300 feet by 100 feet. STREET OF SALLUST. Street of Sallust. — From beyond the House of Pansa we enter the Street of Sallust. At its head another street branches off to the RAMRLE III. 79 right. The Stratla ili Salliistio leads to the Gate of Herculaneuni and Street of Tombs. Here the polygonal blocks of 'silex or lava with which the roads were paved can be conveniently examined. They were originally smooth and close-jointed, but have got into their present state by the wear and tear of traffic and the rain washing away the edges of the stones. 72. House of Sallust. — This was evidently the house of a well- to-do man, and is of considerable extent. Most of the frescoes are good in style. Sallust and his house are well known to readei-s of Bulwer's work. 75. House of the Vestal Virgins, so called^, but this is evidently a misnomer. It is composed, in fact, of two houses, the inner one being The House of Ione. — Visitors will recognize the portico garden and fountains. They are still in good preservation. 78. The Gate of Herculaneum consists of three arches. The walls, showing construction of various periods, can best be examined at this point. There are some masons' marks here similar to those upon the walls of the Temple of Victory upon the Palatine Hill. (See " Rambles in Rome.") STREET OF TOMBS. Walk doicn on the left side and return by the other. The most interesting tombs ai'e — 79. Tomb of Mamia the priestess. mamia, daughter of publius, public priestess, this place of sepulture w^vs given by a decree of the decurions. 82. Tomb of Scaurus, upon which are represented gladiatorial combats and wild-beast hunts of the gladiatorial school of Nuraerius Festus Ampliatus. The names recorded on this tomb are those used by Bulwer in the "Last Days of Pompeii." The inscriptions read — TO aulus umbricus scaurus, son of aulus of the menenia gens, DUUMVIR. the decurions DECREED THE SITE OF THE MONUMENT AND 2,000 SESTERCES FOR THE FUNERAL, AND AN EQUESTRIAN STATUE IN THE FORUM OF POMPEII. ^SCAURUS THE FATHER TO HIS SON. 83. Tomb of N^voleia Tyche, with a relief of a ship in the act of lowering sail in port, and a bust of Tyche ; also a relief of the magis- RAMBLK III. 81 trates aud family pouring oblations over an altar at the dedication of the tomb. NiEVOLEIA, FREEDWOMAX OF JULIA TYCIIE, FOR HERSELF AND CAIUS IIUXATIUS FAUSTUS, AUGUSTAL OF THE SUBURB, TO WHOM THE DECURIONS, WITH THE CONSENT OF THE PEOPLE, DECREED THE BISELLIUM FOR HIS MERITS. THIS MONUMENT N-EVOLEIA TYCIIE IN HER LIFE MADE FOR HER FREEDMEN AND FREEDWOMEN, AND THOSE OF CAIUS MDNATIUS FAUSTUS. 84. Tomb of the Augustalis Calventius, on which is a relief of the Bisellium, or chaii* of state. to CAIUS calventius QUINTUS, AUGUSTAL, TO WHOM FOR HIS munificence AVAS, by decree of THE DECURIONS AND WITH THE CON- SENT OF THE PEOPLE, GRANTED THE HONOUR OF THE BISELLIUM. Cicero's Villa. — In the neighbourhood of Pompeii Cicero had a villa. He says : " We intended to set sail, Lucullus for his villa near Naples, and I myself towards mine, in the district of Pompeii" ("Academics," ii. 3). The site has not been discovered, for the villa named after him, ou the left outside the Poi'ta Herculanea, was not his. This was exca- vated many years ago, and the excavation filled in. It belonged to Marcus Crassus Frugius. The mosaics of Dioskorides of Samos and the frescoes of the Bacchantes found here are now in the Naples Museum. 90. Villa of Diomedes. — Here eighteen bodies of men, w^omen, and children were found in the vaults of the portico, with the remains of food, money, and jewellery. This villa is alluded to by Bulwer. This extensive villa was built on the plan of a Roman villa as described by Vitruvius. It is of the time of Augustus, and may therefore have been designed by that celebrated architect. On its discovery in 1763 many beautiful mosaics and frescoes were found, but these have been destroyed or i-emoved. Our view presents the large gai'den surrounded by a portico with a fountain in the centre. At the far end are the apartments of the villa which faced into the garden ; and at the higher level behind them was the dwelling con- sisting of numerous chambers built round a peristyliuni. Returning hy the opposite side of the road. 85. The Tomb of Arrius Diomedes. MARCUS arrius, FREEDMAN OF DIOMEDES, TO THE MEMORY OF HIM- SELF AND HIS MAGISTRATE OF THE SUBURB, AUGUSTUS FELIX. (16) r, ramble iii. 83 88. Tomb of Lucius Labeon. to lucius caius labeon, son of lucius of the menenia gens, for the second time duumvir quinquennial. menomacus the freed- man erected it. 86. Tomb of the Gens Libella. to marcus alleius lucius libella, the father, ^dile, duumvir, prefect QUINQUENNIAL ; AND TO MARCUS ALLEIUS LIBELLA, THE SON, DECURION, WHO LIVED SEVENTEEN TEARS. THE SITE OF THE MONUMENT IS GIVEN BY THE PUBLIC. ALLELE. DECIMILLA, DAUGHTER OF MARCUS, PUBLIC PRIESTESS OF CERES, MADE THE SEPULCHRE OF HER HUSBAND AND SON. Then follow a columbaria and an ustriua, or place for burning bodies. 81. Ruins of a Villa and public-house adjoining. Here wei'e found the four beautiful mosaic columns in the Museum at Naples. The visitor re-enters the gate, and proceeds through the Forum. When about fifty yards through the arch look hack through the arch. We pass out by the sea-gate. For trains consult local time-table. THE CITY OF THE DEAD: IMPRESSIONS. On the fifth day of November, eighteen hundred years ago, Vesuvius poured forth streams of fire, liquid mud, ashes, and red-hot stones, thus destroying the cities at its base, and so preserving for after ages a Roman city, that we might know something more of the domestic mannei's and customs of the Romans than can be learned from books. On this anniversary we spent the day wandei'ing through and examining the deserted city (with which we are already familiar), partly disentombed from its bed of lava ashes. On the street of Nola the excavations are now being carried out, the latest discovery being a house evidently belonging to a gentleman of the period, who was a bachelor; so at least we should judge from internal evidence. The peristylium with its coloured columns, the marble fountain, and the frescoes on the walls, might well be envied by any bachelor of the Albany. One small fresco struck us with its beauty and subject. Upon a rock in a beautiful landscape sat a youth holding u]i a lighted lantern ; below him was a narrow sheet of water ; upon the opposite shore a tower of opus quadratum, from a window of which looked out a fair lady, with her arm extended, bearing in her hand a lightetl 84 POMPEII. lamp — such as have been found in great numbers amid the surround- ing ruins. In the water is seen the form of a manly swimmer, his brow encircled with a laurel wreath. Here we have the story of Leander. From this house it is but a step into the new baths just excavated, — the largest and finest baths in the city, evidently in pro- gress of construction, when tlie workmen dropped their tools and fled in consternation — never to return. As we ramble amidst the ruins we have constant evidence that the city was undergoing extensive restorations, and we remember that in 63 it was partly destroyed by an earthquake ; and so we know why so much rebuilding was going on when the city was over- whelmed. In one house we see represented upon an altar the end of the Forum with its Temple of Juinter and arches, as it appeared tottering from the quake. We walk along the silent streets, and note every here and there huge stepping-stones, which must have prevented any horse traffic ; then we mark the ruts caused by wheels along the streets and between the stones, and fancy the drivers must have even excelled a " hansom " driver to have steered cleai', even if the horse could have stepped over the stones. "We know there could not have been much horse traffic in such a city as this, and it is there- fore reasonable to suppose that the ruts were caused by hand-barrows and not by chariots. In the wet season the rain rushes along these streets in torrents, and without the stepping-stones the inhabitants could not have crossed dry-shod. We stop and pick up a piece of glass, and the thought strikes us, what misconception exists among many that the Romans knew not of its use for windows. Not only is it mentioned by ancient authors, but here we see it so used. In the baths there is a window 2 feet 8 inches by 3 feet 8 inches, in which was found glass half an inch thick, ground on one side to pre- vent any one looking into the bath-chamber. In another room was found a bronze frame 2 feet 6 inches by 3 feet, with four panes of clear glass fastened by means of nuts and screws. In the villa of Diomedes four jjanes were found, 6 inches by four inches ; and in a liouse one is still in situ. Glass was then as now used for mosaics, and the art of glass-blowing must have been lai'gely practised, from the numerous specimens existing in different museums. Toughened glass, so lately invented, was discovered, but suppressed by Tiberius putting the inventor to death. As we pass along we notice the leaden water-pipes with their bronze cocks cropping up through the pavement of the side-walks ; the water being brought into the city by the aqueducts and stored in the reservoirs^ whence it was dis- RAMBLE III. 85 persed by means of leaden pipes to the public fountains, baths, ami liouses. Another misapprehension exists amongst many, that the Romans, because they built the aipieducts, diil not know that water finds its own level, when the aqueducts are built upon that very principle. We mean by this the whole system, not merely a ruined arch, which is all that most visitors see of the Eoman water supi)ly.* — ,^ STREET OF TUE BALCONY. We stroll into the vacant theatre and note how the people were being amiised when the alamu first spread, and see how easily all could get outside the building without crowding or confusion. AVhy are not theatres built upon this plan now i. Even the telephone was foreshadowed by these Romans ; for, that the voice might reach every part of the house and convey its sound * See " The Roman Aqueducts and Fountains." By S. Russell Forbes. 86 POMPEIL to the hardest hearer, little bronze cups were suspended at intei'vals under the seats of tlie spectators. What lessons might we not still learn from them, and the arrangement of their houses with their pleasant courts, where the dweller could warm himself in the winter's sun, or shade himself from the summer heats, the sparkling fountain refreshing the air around. Their old custom of letting out part of the ground-floor, facing on to the street, as shops, is still practised by the Italians ; and many a prince adds to his income by this means, as well as reserving one for the sale of his own produce. The checkers are still used now as then. Even the houses of the poorer class are nicely if inexpensively frescoed, looking cheerful and comfortable; and, after being buried so long, are far cleaner than many not a thou- sand miles away. Iron bedsteads and many domestic utensils show that we have not made much progress. In fact, they put more art into ordinary life and things in that easy-going time than we do in this express age. This city of two miles in circuit imjDresses one greatly — though visitors are warned not to expect too much, or things on too grand a scale. Fancy you are going to see the ruins of a provincial town of the present day after it has been destroyed by fire ; this may give you some idea, but not the correct one. You will say everything seems small ; so it may with our present ideas. But think back ; remember this was a place of no great importance, that the people passed most of their time out of doors, and were not domesticated like our Anglo- Saxon race. The temples will excel our churches in architecture, and their public buildings ours of the provincial town. Three different baths have been discovered here : where is the provincial town that can show these ? — we had almost said one. Stroll into the Forum (market-place). Many of the scenes enacted here are presei'ved in fresco, giving us a good idea of the original. What town at home has such a market-place ] You see you cannot compare the two places; everything is so different, — manners, life, country, and time, all are changed. There is evidence in the strata of lava ashes that the city was only buried at the great eruption, and that it took many after eruptions to cover it to the depth found. And there is no doubt that many of the houses were entered after the destruction, and that many valu- ables were carried off. We noticed a rather curious circumstance in this visit. Passing along a short blind street, the pavement was broken away, probably from the giving way of the soil below, leaving a large hole, showing ashes beneath the pavement abovfe, and some HAMBLr^ 111. bl feet below the ashes another ]iavenient. AVas this a trace of the earlier earthquake or of an earlier unrecorded eruption / CAMALDOLI. Visitors to Pompeii icho go h>j the early train can return by the 12.36 p.m. train, so that the afternoon can be spent in an excursion to the Convent of Camaldoli, 5h miles north-tvest of Naples. It was founded by Prince Colonua, and stands on a ridge 1,450 feet above the sea, commanding the most extensive view near Naples. Nothing is more enchanting than this view, taken about an hour before sunset. Below it are the Phlegrtean fields ; beyond these, to the right, Elysium and the Trumpeters' promontory ; to the left the Sirens' town and cape ; Naples and its environs occupying the exten- sive bays between ; Circello, Terracina, Gaeta's Bay, and the Apen- nines filling in the background. The carriage passes by the Via Roma, and turns just beyond the Museum, by the Via Salvator Rosa and the Via S. Gennaro, to the village of Antignano, where donkeys can be hired for the ascent to the suppressed monastery. P^STUM. Travellers who wish to see Pciestum, and not Amalfi or Salerno, can stay overnight at Pompeii and take the early train to Pesto, changing at Battipaglia. (See page 130.) RAMBLE IV. PORTICI — RESIXA — VESUVIUS: HOW TO GET THERE; AND USEFUL HINTS — HISTORICAI, NOTICES— HERCULANEUM— LA FAVORITA. PORTICI. The road from Naples is lined with houses and villas till we reach the suburb of Portici, which takes its name from tlie Porticum Her- culis, mentioned by Petronius as standing at the west side of Hercu- laneum. The highroad passes through the courtyard of the palace of Charles III. We are then in the town of RESINA, the ancient Retina, and port of Herculaneuni. It is interesting as standing on the top of Herculaneum, MOUNT VESUVIUS. Places should be booked overnight at Messrs. Thomas Cook and Son's office, Piazza dei Martiri. Their carriages take passengers to the station at the foot of the cone, from whence the ascent is made by the funicular railway, the property of Mr. John M. Cook. The inclusive cost is 25 lire. Visitors who do not desire to make the ascent will find it enjoy- able to go as far as the Hermitage to view the lava beds. THE ASCENT OF VESUVIUS BY RAILWAY. The ascent of Vesuvius has been rendered much easier by the funi- cular railway which has been made up the steepest part of the cone. Before reaching the Observatory a new road leads off to the right, at the base of the cone, to the station; here the rail is taken, which puts one down within one hundred yards of the sum.mit. The start from Naples is made at 8.30 a.m. in the winter and 7 a.m. in the summer. The trains start running at 10 a.m., and cease at 4 p.m. Special arrangements can be made for night service. The new station of the railway which ascends to the summit of Vesuvius is situated on a level cpot on the west side of the mountain, about half an hour's walk from the Observatory. The constructers of the railway have adopted the American double iron-rope system. RAMBLE IV. 89 There are two lines of rails, eacli provided with a carriaije divided into two compartments, and capable of holding ten persons. While one carriage goes up the other comes down, thus establishing a counterpoise which considerably economizes the steam of the sta- tionary traction engine. The incline is extremely steep, commencing at 40 degrees, increasing to 63 degrees, and continuing at 50 degrees to the summit. Every possible precaution lias been taken against accident, and the railway itself is protected against possible flows of lava by an enormous wall. The ascent is made in eight to ten minutes. To obtain the necessary supply of water, large covered cisterns have been constructed, which in winter are filled with the snow that often falls iieavily on Vesuvius. This snow is quickly melted by tlie internal heat ; and besides the water thus obtained, the frequent rainfall is also conducted into the cisterns. An ele- gant cafe restaurant, capable of accommodating one hundred per- sons, is attached to the station. Above the entrance to tlie latter ia an ample terrace siipported on cohimns, wlience an enchanting view is obtained, not only of the Gulf of Naples, but also of those of BaireandGaeta, each dotted with its islands, while to the north spreads the luxuriant plain of Casei^ta, bordei-ed by the distant Apennines. The funicular railway up to the crater of Vesuvius is in full work- ing order, and is a great success. It is 896 yards long, and the carriages are so constructed that, rising or descending, tlie passenger sits on a level plane, and whatever emotion or liesitation may be felt on starting, changes, before one has risen 20 yards, into a feeling of perfect security. The motion also is very gentle, and the effect is magnificent, if not, indeed, grandly awful, as, when hanging mid- way against the side of tlie cone, one looks from the window directly upwards or downwards along the line, Avhieh, its slight incline alone excepted, is perfectly perpendicular. Dismounting at a little station at the summit, one can scarcely be said to clamber to the edge of the crater, for the company have cut a convenient winding path, up which all, except the aged, heavy, or feeble, can walk with ease. For the exceptions the usual helps and chairs can be obtained. The upper station is 3,885 feet above the sea-level, and 1,302 feet above the lower station. The crater is 4,197 feet above tlie sou. There is a good restaurant at the lower station. HISTORICAL NOTICES. The state of Vesuvius is described before the first eruption, a.d. 79, by Florus (iii. 20) :— 90 VESUVIUS. " Spartacus, Crixus, and CEuoniaus, breaking out of the fencing school of Lentuhis, escaped from Capua with not raore than thirty of the same occupation ; and having called the slaves to their standard, and collected a force of more than ten thousand men, were not content with merely having escaped, but were eager to take vengeance on their masters. The first theatre for action that attracted them was Mount Vesuvius. Here, being besieged by Clodius Glaber, they slid down a passage in the hollow part of the mountain, by means of ropes made of vine branches, and jDenetrated to the very bottom of it ; when, issuing forth by an outlet apparently impracticable, they captured, by a sadden attack, the camp of the Roman general, who expected no molestation." Also by Plutarch in his Life of Crassus : — " The Romans besieged them in their fort, situated upon a hill that had a very steep and narrow ascent to it, and kept the passage up to them ; all the rest of the ground round about it was nothing but high rocks hanging over, and ujaon them a great store of wild vines. Of these the bondmen cut the strongest strips, and made thereof ladders, like to ship-ladders of ropes, of such a length and so strong that they reached from the top of the hill even to the very bottom. Upon these they all came safely down, saving one that tarried above to throw down their armour after them, who after- wards by the same ladder saved himself last of all. The Romans mistrusting no such matter, these bondmen compassed the hill round, assailed them behind, and put them in such a fear with the sudden onset that they fled every man, and so was their camp taken." And by Martial (iv. 44) :— " Here verdant vines o'erspread Vesuvius' sides, The generous grape here poured her purple tides ; This Bacchus loved beyond his native scene ; Here dancing satyrs joyed to triji the green ; Far more than Sparta this in Venus' grace ; And great Alcides once renowned the place: Now flaming embers spread dire waste around, And gods regret that gods can thus confound." Also by Strabo (bk. v. iv. 8) : — " Above these places rises Vesuvius, well cultivated and inhabited all round, except its top, which is for the most part level, and entirely barren, ashy to the view, displaying cavernous hollows in cineritious rocks, which look as if they had been eaten in the fire ; so that we may suppose this spot to have been a volcano formerly, with burning craters, now extinguished for want of fuel." 92 VESUVIUS. The great eruption is graphically described by Dion Cassius in his *' Life of Titus," bk. Ixvi. :— " During the autumn a great fire broke out in Campania. Ve- suvius is a mountain on the coast near Najiles, which contains in- exhaustible fountains of fire; and formerly it was all of the same height, and fire rose in the middle of it (for the only traces of fire were in the middle), but the outer parts remain unscathed to this day. Hence, these continuing uninjured, but the centre being dried up and reduced to ashes, the encircling crags still retain their ancient height; but the burnt part being consumed, in lapse of time has settled down and become hollow, so that, to compare small things to great, the whole mountain now resembles an amphitheatre. And the tops are clothed with trees and vines ; but the circular cavity is abandoned to fire, and by day it sends up smoke, and by night flarae, so that one would think all sort of incense vessels were burn- ing there. This continues always with more or less violence, and often, after any considerable subsidence, it casts up ashes and stones, impelled by violent blasts of wind, with a loud noise and roaring, because its breathing-holes are not set close together, but few and concealed. " Such is Vesuvius, and these things take place in it almost every year. But all eruptions which have happened since, though they may have appeared unusually great to those even who have been accustomed to sucli sights, would be trifling, even if collected into one, when comj^ared to what occurred at the time of which we speak. Many huge men surpassing human stature, such as the giants are described to have been, appeared wandering in the air and upon the earth, at one time fi-equenting the mountain, at another the fields and cities in its neighbourhood. Afterwards came great droughts and violent earthquakes, so that the whole plain boiled and bubbled, and the hills leapt, and there were noises under ground like thunder, and above gTOund like roaring ; and the sea made a noise, and the heavens sounded, and then suddenly a mighty crash was heard, as if the mountains were coming together; and first great stones were thrown up to the veiy summits, then mighty fires and immense smoke, so that the whole air was overshadowed, and the sun entirely hidden, as in an eclipse. " Thus day was turned into night, and light into darkness ; and some thought the giants were rising again (for many phantoms of them were seen in the smoke, and a blast, as if of trumpets, was heard), while others believed that the earth was to return to chaos, 94 TIERCULANEUM. or to be consumed by fire. Therefore meu fled, some from the houses out into the ways, others that were without into their houses; some quitted the land for the sea, some the sea for the land, being confounded in mind, and thinking every place at a dis- tance safer than where they were. Meanwhile, an inexpressible quantity of dust was blown out, and filled land, sea, and aii', which did miTch other mischief to men, fields, and cattle, and destroyed all the birds and fishes, and besides buried two entire cities, Her- culaneum and Pompeii, while the population was sitting in the theatre." The next eruption was in 203 a.d., in the tenth year of Septimius Severus, as recorded by Dion Cassius : " There appeared at the same time a great fire from Mount Vesuvius, and it made so prodigious a noise that it was heard at Capua, which is the place of my retirement when I am in Italy." These eruptions seem to have gone on for a series of years. Pro- copius ("De Bel. Got." iv. 35) thus speaks of Vesuvius at the end of the classic period : — " Vesuvius is very precijjitous below, encircled with wood above, terribly wild and craggy. In the centre of its summit is a very deep chasm, which we may suppose to reach quite to the bottom of the mountain ; and it is possible to see fire in it, if a man dare peep over. Usually the fire feeds upon itself (ecfi kavT^^v a-T6<^eTat), without molesting those who live in its neighbourhood ; but when the moun- tain utters a roaring noise, in general it emits soon after a vast body of cinders." Numerous accounts have been written of the later displays, the last of which was in 1872. In all these eruptions the villages and towns at the base have been more or less destroyed, and rebuilt only to be again destroyed. After the descent, a visit can he made to HERCULANEUM. ("Herculea Urbs,"— Ovid, "Met."xv. 711.) The entrance to the excavations is in the Vico di I/are, on the right- hand side of the road, over which are the words " scavi di ercolano." Admission, 2 lire, including guide. Sundays gratis. By rail, Portici is the station for Herculaneum. Turn to right on exit from station. The direct way is by tram from Xctples to liesina. This town derived its name from Hercules, and was destroyed at RAMBLE IV. 95 the SJime time as Pompeii, in the great erui)tiou of A.u. 71). It was discovered iu 1719, ninety feet below the present level. It seems to have been destroyed by streams of liquid mud, which, on cooling, hardened into peperino stone, so that the buildings have had to be quan-ied out; hence little has been done in comparison with Pompeii. HISTORICAL NOTICES. " Hercules built a small town of the same name as himself in the place where his fleet lay at anchor, which, being now inhabited by the Romans, and lying in the midway between Pomjjeii and Naples, has at all times a secure harbour" (Dionysius, i. 44). " Herculaueum, built upon a promontory which projects out into the sea, and which, on account of the prevalence of the south-west wind, is a very healthy spot " (Strabo, v. iv. 8). " Which fortified hill, on the sea, defended with low walls, between two rivers, is w'ithin a short distance of Vesuvius " (Sisenna, quoted by Nonius Marcellus, viii.). "One part of it was ruined by an earthquake during the consul- ship of Memmius Regulus and Virginius Pufus," a.d. G3 (Seneca, "Q. N:'vi.). Thei'e is evidence, as at Pompeii, that considerable restorations were going on at the time of the final catastrophe. Livy (x. 45) records the taking of Herculaneum, and its being added to Rome, by Carvilius, consul a.u.c. 459. " Carvilius had in the meantime taken from the Samnites Volana, Palumbinum, and Herculaueum. At Herculaneum, it is true, the consul had two regular engagements without any decisive result on either side, and with greater loss than was suffered by the enemy; but afterwards, encamping on the spot, he shut them up within their works, besieged and took the town." Velleius Paterculus (ii. 16) tells us that Herculaneum was taken by his ancestor for the Romans in the Italian War (80 B.C.) : — " Minatius Magius of yEculanum, my ancestor in the fourth degi'ee, grandson of Decius Magius, displayed in this war such a faithful attachment to the Romans, that he, in conjunction with Titus Didius, took Herculaneum, and with Lucius Sylla besieged Pompeii.'' " Lycurgus had taken us to a feast in honour of Hercules, which was held in a little town in the neighbourhood ; but having heard we were there, they followed in all ha.ste, and met us in the portico of the temple" (Petronius Arbiter, ii.). 96 HERCULANEUM. This temple was found in the original excavations, its marbles and works of art carried off, and the excavation filled in. " This was the place renowned by the divinity of Hercules. All now lies buried in flames and sad ashes" (Martial, iv. 44). THE THEATRE. The following inscriptions were found here on fragments of the cornice which decorated the entries : — and — A MAMMI RVFVS . IIVIR . QVN. THEATR. ORCH DE . SVO L. ANNIVS . L. F. MAMMIANVS . RVFVS . IIVIR QVINQ . THEATR . O P. NVMISIVS. P. F. AR TEC. A brick stamp was also found with the words, — ABDAE . LIVIAE. These show that the Theatre was built by Annius Mammianus Eufus, in the time of Augustus, and that Publius Numisius was the architect. A flight of dai'k steps descends to the Theatre, containing 19 tiers of seats, which, with the stage and orchestra, is all that can be made out. It held 10,000 people, and is one of the largest ancient theatres remaining. After returning from the Theatre, the guide conducts yon to the other excavations, Scavi Nuovi, in the Vicolo di Mare. Here some houses and streets have been excavated. One called the House of Argus and lo, from the fresco, is enclosed in an arcade, and in another trees are growing in the ancient peristylium. Cavaliere Novi, a retired officer, who has devoted himself to the study of archaeology, has lately been so fortunate as to discover, in the vicinity of Herculaneum, the ruins of immense thermae and various other edifices adjoining. They are still covered by more than 30 feet of volcanic matter from Vesuvius, and about 18 feet of the lava of 1631. Competent persons who have visited the spot agree in declaring that the construction of these baths is admirable, and that nothing similar exists in the neighbourhood. As soon as permission is obtained, excavations on a large scale will be commenced ; and it is expected that many valuable objects will be found, for the part of RAMBLE IV. 97 the building already uucovorotl jiroves that it belongs to the best period of Eoman art. Tlirec quarters of a mile beyond Resina is LA FAVORITA, a royal villa with beautiful gardens and views. Permission — see Directory at end of Rambles. (ic) RAMBLE V. GROTTO OF POSILIPO — GROTTA DI CANE — LAGO D'AGNANO — ASTRONI — SOLFATARA — pozzuoLi — Paul's landing-place — bridge of caligula — temples of serapis, NEPTUNE, AND THE NYMPHS — CICERO'S VILLA — THEATRE — AMPHITHEATRE — MONTE NUOVO — ARCO FELICE — CUM/E— GROTTO OP THE SIBYL— GROTTA DELLA PACE — LAKES AVERNUS AND LUCEINUS — TEMPLE OP APOLLO — GROTTA D'AVERNO — VIA HERCULEA — STUFE DI TRITONI — BATHS OF NERO— BAI. t> 4.1 j- ,. ^ J • 1 *. „ „ „ of the town. Kather distant for sight-seers. Pension Belle Vue, ° Traraontana-Parker, j LIBRARIES AND BOOKSELLERS. Furchheim, 59 Piazza dei Martiri. Large stock of Enghsh, French, Ger- man, and Italian books, photographs, albums, and stationery. Aiitlior of the "Bibliografia di Pompci." Agent for Dr. Russell Forbes's pub- lications. Information most willingly given to travellers. Detken and RochoU, Piazza Plebiscito. Marghieri, Via Roma, Galleria Umberto I. Pellerano, Via Gennaro Serra. The University. Contains 2.5,000 volumes. Open from 9 to 3 p.m. Blblioteca Nazionale. At the National Museum. Contains 200,000 volumes and 4,000 manuscripts. Biblioteca Brancacciana. At S. Angelo a Nilo. It contains 70,000 volumes and 7,000 manuscripts. Biblioteca S. Giacomo, Strada Concezione a Toledo. Library of Gerolimini, opposite the Cathedral. The Grandi Archivi, in the Convent of SS. Severino and Sossia, near the University. Royal Academy of Archaeology, Literature, and Fine Arts, at the Univer- sity. Accademia Pontaniana, Largo Donna Regina, Strada del Duomo. Istituto d'Incoraggiamento of Technical Schools, Salita Tarsia. MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES. National Museum {Musco NirJonalc). Open, May to October, from 9 till 3 ; November to April, from 10 till 4 : charge, 1 lii'a ; Sundays free. Palazzo Fondi. Permission of the proprietors. (See p. 30.) Filangieri (Industrial), Paggeria, behind Piazza Plebiscito. Filangleri (Artistic and Antiquities), Strada del Duomo. NAVIGATION. Messageries Maiitimes, 11-13 Strada Molo. Service from Marseilles to Turkey, Egypt, the Levant, India, China, and .Japan. Fraissinet, 3 Strada Piliero. Companies between Marseilles, Naples, and the Levant. Peirano, 33 Strada Piliero. Florio-Rubattino, 30 Via Piliero. Anchor Line, 1 Cunard Line.p^^^^ ^ ^°-' ^ Via Flavio Gioja. 140 visitor's NEAPOLITAN DIRECTORY. Valery (French line), 1 Strada Piliero. Capri and Ischia service, A. Manzi & Co., 34 Strado Molo Piccolo. BOATS. Travellers coining from foreign places north of Italy or 1. c. Sicily (mth luggage or without) 1 From Salei-no or Gaeta 40 From the islands of Capri, Ischia, Procida, or any place in the Bay of Naples 20 LUGGAGE. From the Mole to the carriage, one single trunk, not exceeding 100 kilos 40 Do., from 101 to 200 kilos 60 From the entrance, or station, and vice versa, one single trunk of 100 kilos 20 Do., from 101 to 200 kilos 40 Small luggage (bags, hat-boxes, etc.) 20 One trunk from the post or station to the hotel, 100 kilos 1 Do., from 101 to 200 kilos 1 50 In case of any dispute with the boatman or coachman, it would be prudent to take the number and apply to the Questura, Piazza del Municipio, or to any of the municipal guards or police, whence one may obtain redress. OMNIBUSES AND TRAMWAYS. OMNIBUSES. Piazza S. Ferdinando to — The Museum, Capodimonte, Post Office, Re- clusorio, Vittoria, Mergellina, Funicolare del Vomero. The different lines of omnibuses are easily distinguished by their colours, and names boldly painted on the sides. The Piazza S. Ferdinando, on one side of the Royal Palace, may be taken as an omnibus and tramway centre. TRAMWAYS. {Street Cars.) Post Office to Posilipo (by Piazza S. Ferdinando, S. Lucia, Vittoria, Riviera di Chiaja, and Mergellina). Mergellina (Torretta) to Reclusorio (by Riviera di Chiaja, Vittoria, S. Lucia, Piazza S. Ferdinando, Strado Piliero, and Railway Station). Piazza S. Ferdinando to Torre del Greco (by Portici and Resina). Piazza S. Ferdinando to Porta Capuana and the Museum. The Museum to Reclusorio and all the above points. Fares : — First class, 15 to 50 ccntesimi ; second class, 10 to 40 centesimi (according to distance). ^^^^^ ^^^^^ (A Vapore.) Reclusorio to Caivano, Aversa. visitor's NKAPOLITAN DinECTOKY. Ill Piazza S. Ferdinanrlo to Pozzuoli, by v/ay of Posilipo, by liorse-cars, ami thence through the new tunnel by steaui. , Piedigrotta to the Museo (twenty-four trains daily), by Corse Vittorio Emanuele. CABLE TRAMWAY. (Fcrrovia Fu nicoUux. ) From Parco Margherita, on the Rione Amedeo, to Corso Vittorio Eman- uele and Voraero. Also from Monte Santo, behind Piazza della Cartita, same direction. ORDERS REQUIRED, AND WHERE OBTAINABLE. Catacombs. Hospice of S. Gennaro. Castle of S. Elmo. Commandant, Piazza del Plebiscite. Palazzo Reale,") Capodimonte, Caserta, 'of the Intendant, at the Royal Palace, Piazza del Plebis- Favorita, \ cito. Qulsisana, | Astroni, J Pompeii (for sketching). The Segreteria of the Museum at Naples. Fondl Picture Gallery, Strada Medina. Population— December 31st, 1891, 527,586; and 9,500 men garrison. Post and Telegraph OflSces — General Post Office, Monteoliveto, Palazzo Gravina. Letter-boxes cleared for France, England, Germany, Switzer land. Northern Italy, etc., at 9 and 11 a.m., at 12 noon, and at 1, 2, 3, 4, Ti, and 8.30 p.m. Branch Offices— H. Lucia, Piazza S. Caterina a Chiaja, 147 Strada Foria, Railway station, Immacolatella (close to the port). Telegrams— PivVfs .- For the whole of Italy, 15 words, 1 lira ; for each extra woi'd, 45 c. For foreign countries a word rate, after the iiutial payment of 1 lira. Branch Offices— Lavgo Garofalo a Chiaja, 42 Strada S. Gia- como, 108 Strada Foria. Palace Cars, Pullman's— Agent : E. Grimaldi, Strada Santa Brigida, Gal- leria LTmberto I. Police Office— Piazza Municipio, comer of Via Inibriani. SMpping Agents — Holme & Co., 2 Via Flavio Gioja ; Aselmeyer, Pfister & Co., 34 Strada Piliero ; Vickers & Co., 7 and 8 Via Vittoria. Theatres— S. Carlo, near the Royal Palace. BeUini, Via Bellini. Del Fondo, Strada del Mole. Fiorentini, Strada Fiorentini. Sannazaro, Strada di Chiaja. Nuoro, Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo. Fenice, Piazza del Municipio. liossini, Salita Tarsia. Politcavia, Strada Monte di Dio. Water-Closets (X«rrmc)— Villa Nazionale, near the sea ; Strada Chiaja, in the staircase leading to Monte di Dio ; Piazza Plebiscite, en the western side of the colonnade ; Salita San Potite, near the Museum. ^nbcx. Agrippina's Tomb, 114. Amalfl, 128. Amphitheatres — Capua, 5. Cuma;, 108. Monte Cassino, 4. Pwstum, 134. Pompeii, 64. Puteoli, 107. Sorrento, 124. Aquarium, 42. Arch of Triumph, 33. Arco Felice, 107. Artists, 135. Bacoli, 114. Bagnoli, 101. Baiaj, 111. Bankers, 136. Basilica Augustalis, 30. Baths, Ancient, 37. Baths, Modern, 135. Baths of Nero, 111. Baths of Tiberius, 120. Bay of Naples, US. Boats, 140. Booksellers, 139. Bridge of Caligula, 103. Camaldoli, 87. Capodimonte, 7, 28. Capri, 118. Carriage fares, 136. Castel del Carmine, 34 Castellamare, 120. Castello deir Ovo, 8. Castel Nuovo, 33. Castel S. Elmo, 7, 38. Catacombs, 28. Cento C'amerelle, 114. Chemists, 137. Churches — Domenico Maggiore, 29. Gesii Nuovo, 28. L'Incoronata, 30. Protestant, 137. S. .^nna de' Lombardi, 30. SS. Apostoli, 34. S. Barbara, 34. S. Chiara, 29. S. Francesco di Paola, 8. S. Gennaro, 28. S. Giacomo degli Spag- nuoli, 33. S. Januarius, 36. S. Lorenzo Maggiore, 36. 8. Maria del Carmine, 34 S. Martino, 37. S. Paolo Maggiore, 35. S. Eestituta, 37. S. Severe, 29. City of the dead : Impres- sions, S3. Clubs, 137. Consulates, 137. Corse Vittorio Emanuele, 38. Cumw, 108. Dentists, 138. Destruction of Pompeii, 40 Dining-Rooras, 138. Directory, 135. Doctors, 138. Elysian Fields, 87, 115. Environs, 43 ; Map of, 134-5. Fountains- - Charles III., 30. Fountains- Medina, .33. S. Lucia, 8. Galleria Principe di Na- poli, 9. Galleria Umberto, 33. Galleries, Picture, 139. Grottoes — Blue, 120. D'Averno, 110. Delia Pace, 109. Di Cane, 100. Posilipo, 98. Sejanus, 116. Sibyl, 108, 110. Hadrian to his soul, 106. Herculaneum, 94. Historical notices — Capri, 122. Herculaneum, 95. Pompeii, 46. Vesuvius, 89. Hotels, 138. How to see Naples, xi. International Hospital, 38. Lakes — Agnanc, 100. Avernus, 109. Fusaro, 114. Lucrinus, 109. Libraries, 139. Luggage, 140. Map to Naples, 0, 7. Misenum, 115. Monte Nuovo, 107. INDEX. 143 Monte Solaro, 120. Museum, National, 10. Museum, S. Martino, 37. Museums, 139. Naples, 7. Naples : How to see it, xi. Naples a Roman colony, 31. Navigation, 139. Neapolitan Life, 30. Nisida, 115. Omnibuses, 140. Orders required, HI. Paestum, 87, 130. Palaces — Astroni, 100. Capodiraonte, 28. Fondi, 30. La Favorita, 97. Royal, 9. Palfeopolis, 7. Parthenope, 7. Paul's landing-place, 103. Phlegraian Fields, 87, 115. Piazzas — Dante, 9. Dei Martiri, 32. Del Municipio, 33. Del Plebiscito, a Ferdinando, 9. Piscina Mirabilis, 115. Pizzofalcone, 8. Police office, 141. Pompeii, 43. Population, 141. Porta Alba, 9. Porta Capuana. 34. Portici, 88. Posilipo, 98. Postal notices, 141. Puteoli, 102 Puzzuoli, 102 Railways, C, 101. Rambles in Naples, ix. Ramble through the city of the dead, 52, 83. Resina, 88. Restaurants, 138. Riviera di Cliiaja, 42. Route— Rome to Naples, 1. Salerno, 128. School of Virgil, 117. Serapeum, 104. Shipping aguuts, 141. S. Lucia, 8. Solfatara, 100. Sorrento, 124. Stufe di Nerone, 111. Stufe di San Germano, 100. Telegrams, 141. Temples — Apollo, 109. Augustus, 102. Castor and Pollux, 35, 133. Ceres, 132. Diana, 102, 113. Giants, 108. Mercury, 34, 113. Mithras, 120. Neptune, 104, 133. Nymphs, 104. Serapis, 104. Venus, 112 Theatres- Ancient IIerculaneum,0O. Ancient P.-vstum, 134. Ancient Pompeii, 63. Ancient Puteoli, 106. Ancient Roman, 35. Modern, 141. S. Carlo, 32. Tomb of Agrippina, 114. Tomb of Virgil, 40. Torre del Greco, 43. Torre dell' Annunziata, 43. Tramways, 140. Triumphal Arch, 33. Useful hints, xii. Useful information, 135. Vesuvius, 88. Via Herculea, 110. Via Roma, 9. Villas— Ciesar, 114. Cicero's Pompeian, 81. Cicero's Puteolaneum,104. Donn' Anna, 117. La Favorita, 97. LucuUus, 116. Nazionale, 42. Pollius Felix, 124. Quisisana, 120. Sans Souci, 117. ServiUus Vatia, 102, 114. Tiberius, 120. Vedius PoUio, 116. Virgil, 117. Virgil's Tomb, 40. Water Supply, xii. jE 1^ «i c X t a ^ m p c i i. Amphitheatre, 64. Arch of Nero, 70. Basilica, 56. Baths, Public, 70. Baths, Stabian, CG. Bibliografia, 44. Chalcidlcum, 60. Curia Isiaca, 63. Destruction of Pompeii, Hall of town council Forum, Great, 58, Forum, Triangular, 02. Gate, Herculaneum, 79. Gate, Sea, 53. Gladiators' barracks, 63. Guild hall of fullers, 60. CO. Historical notices, 46. Houses — Abbondanza, 08. Arbaces, 70. Bear, 67. Centenario, 67. Cornelius Rufus, 64. Epidiua Rufus, GO. 144 INDEX. Houses — Faun, 70. Fontana in Musaico, 08. Gladiators, 62. Glaucus, 74. Holconius, 62. lone, 79. Large Mosaic Fountain, 74. Lucius Cfecilius Jucun- dus, 69. Marcus Lucretius, 67. Orpheus, 69. Pansa, 74. Poets, 69. Sallust, 79. Small Mosaic Fountain, 74. Specchio, 68. Tragic Poet, 74. Vestals, 79. Impressions, 83. Latest Excavations, 62, 09. Law Courts, 62. Map, Large, 53, 54. Map, Sketcli, 45. Masonic Lodge, 64. Museum, 53. Pantheon, 60. Pliny's letters to Tacitus, 46. Pompeii : how to get there, etc., 43. Porta Marina, 53. Porta Stabiana, 63. Ramble through the City of the Dead, 52, 83. Recent Excavations, 67, 69. Regioni, 53. Street of Abundance, 62. Street of the Balcony, S.'i. Street of Sallust, 77. Street of Tombs, 79. Temples — Benign Jupiter, 64. Fortune, 70. Hercules, 62. Isis, 62. Jupiter, 58. Mercury, 60. Venus, 58. Theatre, Comic, 63. Theatre, Tragic, 63. Tombs, 79. Villa of Cicero, 81. Villa of Diomedes, 8L DR, RUSSELL FORBES'S PUBLICATIONS. RAMBLES IN ROME. 12mo, cloth. Illustrated, and with numer- ous Majis and Plans. "Not only useful as a guide, but as a book of reference." New (6(h) edition now ready. Price 5 lire. THE FOOTSTEPS OF ST. PAUL IN ROME. 12mo, cloth. Illustrated. "As true an account as probablj- -will be written of St. Paul's stay in Rome."' Price 3 lire. New (3rd) edition noiu ready. PHOTOG-RAPHS, illustrating the above. Set of forty-five. Price 23 lire. Bound with tlie Roman White Vellum, 35 lire. THE ROMAN CATACOMBS. Their True History ; and Records of Early Christian Art. l'2mo, cloth limp. Illustrated. Price Ih lire. THE MUSEUMS OF ROME. 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No mere guide-book chatter, no parrot-like repetition of an oft-told and wearisome story, but an intelligent conveying of historical facts, evincing a genuine love for research, a profound admiration for the work of the ancient days when Rome ruled the world, and a deep regard for those trophies which the hand and vandalism of man have left to teach us the history of the past." "We learned from Dr. Forbes in a few days more than we could have gained for ourselves in as many months." "Never before had I anything approximating to Professor Forbes's presentation of the history and archaeology of the Mistress of the World." Visitors will find it advantageous to call upon Dr. Forbes as soon as convenient after their arrival, so as to arrange for seeinsf Rome to the best advantage. 93 VIA BABUINO, ROME. RAM BLES IN ROME. OPINIONS OK THE I'UKs.S. "All who mean to stay in theEternal City should be provided with Mr. S. Russell Forbes's ' Rambles in Rome.' " — The Critic, New York: " If you are visiting Rome j-ou will find in this book a high-class com- panion and guide. Try it, and see the difference between tlie mere guide- book produced by the trade to sell, and the chatty, masterly production of a writer of abilitj' and taste." — Sword and Trowel. " It combines a great deal of out-of-the-way historical and archaeological knowledge, with a minute acquaintanceship with the ruins and other remains of Rome." — Olasgow JVeivs. "An intelligently-written and well-arranged giiide-book." — Spectator. " Copiously illustrated and well provided with maps and plans." — Chelms- ford Chronicle. "A compact and instructive book, which will be a most useful adjunct to the traveller's knapsack." — Life. "Will undoubtedly prove a valuable hand-book to all who desire to see and study the Rome of to-day in a systematic fashion." — Glasgow Herald. "It is more than a guide-book ; it is a book of reference, and should be in every library." — Newport (R. I.) Neics. "It would be difficult to recommend a more serviceable volume." — The Italian Times. "The guide is pleasant reading even by the fireside." — American Register. " Best, newest, and cheapest guide to Rome." — The News. " One great merit of Mr. Forbes's book is that he deals with his subject in a business-like way. He briefly states what he knows about it, without in- dulging in any rhapsodies or gushes of sentiment, or suggesting to his readers what thoughts ought to surge up in their mind as they gaze upon any given scenes or monuments." — Saturdaii Rcviciv. "The volume is profusely illustrated, and is incomparably the most valu- able guide to Rome and its antiquities." — Christian Union. "With its limp cover and i)icturcs, it will be found a very handy pocket volume to walk about with." — The Guardian. "It deserves commendation for two very conspicuous merits. It is the work of an autlior who thoroughly understands his subject, and it is remark- ably direct and simple in style." — Scotstnan. " The traveller or resident in the city will find the book of solid and con- stant value." — Boston Congregational ist. "This is a very interesting work, by tlie well-known archaeologist and lecturer, Mr. Forbes, who gives the reader the benefit of his thorough know- ledge and familiarity with the subjects on which he writes. A stranger visit- ing Rome, who desires to see, if not all, at least as many wonderful sights as his time will permit, cannot do better than peruse Mr. Forbes's book, which will enable him to see much more in a less time and with greater benefit to himself than if he trusted to the guidance of .some of the numerous cicerones with which the Eternal City is infested." — Travel. " ' Rambles in Rome ' will prove a friend in need and indeed to all who contemplate visiting the Eternal City."— Musical Herald. COOK'S EXCURSIONS IN NAPLES ENVIRONS For not (ess than Twelve Peisons. EXCURSION No. 1. Leave Cook's Office, Piazza dei Martiri, at 9.0 a.m., and proceed by Villa, Piedi-Grotta, Corso Victoi' Emanuele to San Martino Museum and Convent (visit), Luncheon, and afterwards visit National INIuseum, Cathedral, and back by Marina, San Carlo Theatre, Royal Palace, and Santa Lucia. Fare 12 Francs. EXCURSION No. 2. Leave Cook's Office, Piazza dei Martiri, at 9.0 a.m., and proceed vid Portici, Resina (Ercolano), Torre del Greco, Torre Annunziata to Pompeii (visit), Luncheon, and back to Naples. Fare 12 Francs. EXCURSION No. 3. Leave Cook's Office, Piazza dei Martiri, at 9.0 a.m., and proceed by Villa, Piedi-Grotta, Lago d'Agnano, Stufe San Germano, Grotta del Cane, Grotta Amoniaco, Solfatara, Amphitheatre, Pozzuoli, Stufe di Nerone, Tempio di Mercurio, Piscina Mirabile, Capo Misene, and return by Nisida and Posilippo. Luncheon. Fare 13 Francs. EXCURSION No. 4. Leave Santa Lucia by Steamer for Blue Grotto (visit, tide permitting)) Capri Marina, and thence to Sorrento, where the night is spent. Next morning proceed by carriage through one of the most pic- turesque countries, vid Meta, Vico P]quense, Castellamare to Pompeii (visit), and back to Naples. Two Days' Excursion. Fare 40 Francs. EXCURSION No. 5. Pompeii, La Cava, Piestum (Temples), Salerno, Vietri, Atrani, Amalfi, Ravello, and back to Naples. Three Days' Excursion. Fare 75 Francs. The fares include the services of a competent guide, fees for sight- seeing, conveyance in Cari'iages and Steamers, and Luncheon ; and for Excursions No. 4 and 5, Hotel Accommodation, consisting of three meals a day, bed, lights, and attendance. THOS. COOK & SON, CHIEF OFFICE-LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON. NAPLES : Piazza dei Martiri. I ROME : 1b Piazza di Spagna. NAPLES. Hotel Bristol. ''T^HIS magnificent first-class family Hotel, constructed upon X the most approved principles of hygiene and comfort, and according to the best medical advice, is now conducted in the Swiss style. It is surrounded by gardens, and situated on the highest and healthiest part of Naples, commanding a great view over the Gulf, Vesuvius, and Islands; nearest to S. Martinoand Museum. Patronized by the majority of the Courts of Europe, and specially recommended by the First Medical Authorities. Grand and luxurious furnishing. Large Sitting and Drawing Rooms. Terraces. Distinguished Cooking. Polite and ready Attendance. The Proprietor and Manager, A. LANDRY, from the Hotel Uetliberg, near Zurich, late Proprietor of the Grand Hotel Pegli, and Hotel Sonnenberg, Engelberg. NAPLES. Hotel Victoria, QUAI PARTENOPE. EXPOSED full South, situated on the New. Embankment near the public garden and principal promenade. All rooms overlooking the Bay. Special arrangement for families. Moderate charges. French and Italian Cuisine. Omnibus to all trains and steamers. FERDINANDO MERLO, Proprietor & Manager. NAPLES. Grand Hotel. First-class and most Comfortable Hotel. Situated in the finest and most select part of Naples, with magnificent Views of the Town, Vesuvius, and the Bay. Hydraulic Lift. ALFRED HAUSER, Proppietor. NAPLES. West End Hotel. (Late GRAND HOTEL NOBILE.) On the New Rione Principe Amedeo. First-class Hotel, entirely renovated. Healthy, elevated position, with fine View of Vesuvius and the Bay. Lift. Electric Light. HAUSER & MULLER, Proprietors. NAPLES. Hotel Royal des Etrangers. Electric Light. Lift. SPECIALLY built for an hotel ; opened 1877. This House is noted for its Beautiful Situa- tion in front of the Sea, near the Castello dell' Ovo, and within a short distance of the Public Gardens. The most Patronized by the Best Society of all Countries. A. G. CAPRANI, Proprietor. A. DREYFUSS, Administrator. CASTELLAMARE. (Near POMPEII.) HOTEL QUISISANA. IN the most healthy part of the Bay of Naples, and the most convenient centre for Excursions to Pompeii, Vesuvius, Sorrento, Capri, Praiano-Amalfii, Cava, etc. The English Church is at the hotel. Telegraph office at hotel. Omnibus meets all trains. Messrs. DOMBRE & CANNAVALE, Proprietors. l7iternatio7tal Pharinacy, L. D'EMILIO— A. MENARINI, Dir. 4 Via Calabritto, NAPLES. BRITISH DISPENSARY. ALL ENGLISH AND AMERICAN PATENTS. Prescriptions accurately Dispensed by English Assistants, with Drugs from London. Supplied by ROBERTS & Co. (beutsclie Apotkehe — (Pharmacie Francaise. 4 Via Calabritto, NAPLES. W. J. SMITH & Co.'s ENGLISH GROCERY STORES, 56 &. 57 PIAZZA DEI MARTIRI, NAPLES. The Largest, Best, and Cheapest Establishment in Italy for Wines, Spirits, Liqueurs, Pale Ale, and Stout, Teas, Coffees, Biscuits, Jams, and Preserved Provisions, Chocolate, Bonbons, Cakes, Italian Sweets, and Aerated Waters. Messrs. Smith & Co.'s Manufactures were awarded a GOLD MEDAL at the NAPLES EXHIBITION, 1890. (See the Times, 26th October 1891.) WHOLESALE AND RETAIL. SHIPS and YACHTS supplied from Bonded Stores. Messrs. Smith & Co.'s Principal Shops in Naples are : — /. Piazza Martin, for General Groceries and Wines. //. Galleria Umberto 1°, for Confectionery and Refreshments. ///. Strada di Cfliaja 83, ] for Groceries and IV. Piazza l/anuitelli, l/omero, ) Confectionery. RiCHTER & Co., Naples. By Special Appointmc/it, Lithographers to His Majesty the King of Italy ; General Printers and Stationers. Offices, Works, and Warehouse : opposite the Royal Palace, adjoining the Church of S. Francesco di Paola. Branch Shop : Via Roma gi^ Toledo, No. 309. Visiting Cards, very neatly engraved. Maps of Naples and the Environs of Naples. Faithful Ohromos of the splendid Paintings in Fresco at Pompeii. English Note Paper and Envelopes. Note Paper "with Views of Naples. German and French Note Papers. "Whatman's and French Drawing Papers. Best Medicated Closet Paper, very cheap. Perry and Co.'s Steel Pens, Pocket Pencils, and Sundries. A. Sommerville and Co.'s Steel Pens. F. Soennecken's selected Steel Pens and Stationery. A. W. Paber's Writing and Drawing Pencils. The Exhibition Sealing Wax. Lambertye's and Winsor and Newton's Water Colours. Travellers' Copying Books and Copying Machines. &c. &c. &c. Low Hates. Fixed Prices. Foreign Languages Spoken. GOLD MEDALS awarded in GREAT BRITAIN, GERMANY, FRANCE, and ITALY. Luigi Casalta. Established ISol. Purveyor to the Imperial Court of Austria, To the Royal Court of Italy, And. to H.R.H. the Princess Louise of Prussia. Pompeian, Etruscan, and Roman Jewellery— 18-carat gold. Artistic reproductions from the Museum of Naples. Finest Rose-Coral Jewellery and Vesuvian Lava. Carved in the Highest Style of Art. 1 Piazza dei Martiri, 7 (Opposite the Lion Monument.) NAPLES. Branch House: 40 Passage, BERLIN. Glove Manufactory. Giuseppe Amendola. NAPLES : STRADA DI CHIAJA, No. 10. Established 1840. 77?^ Oldest Glove Manufactory in NAPLES. MEDALS A"WARDED AT THE PARIS EXHIBITION, 186 7, AND THE MILAN EXHIBITION, 1881. J. LENNON & MAC MURRAY, English Tailors^ 2 e 3 Via Calabritto, NAPLES. G. SOMMER & FiGLIO. LARGE PHOTOGRAPH ESTABLISHMENT. Extensive Collection of Photo- graphs, Views, Architectures, Sculp- tures, Paintings, etc., of the most important Places and Galleries in Italy, Sicily, Tunis, Malta, and Switzerland. GOLD AND SILVER MEDALS AND DIPLOMAS. By Appointment to the Royal Court of Italy. Established in 1857. i^ BRONZE FOUNDRY THE MOST IMPORTANT IN NAPLES. COPIES OF ALL THE MASTERPIECES IN ALL ITALIAN MUSEUMS. All statues are made by Professors of the Fine Art Institute. Awarded several times with Gold Medals at all principal Exhibitions. TERRA-COTTA MANUFACTORY. Sale Saloons and Exhibition : Largo Vittoria, Palazzo Sommer. G. SOMMER AND FIGLIO, NAPLES. ACHILLE SQUADRILLI, PIAZZA VITTORIA, NAPLES. Corals, Lava, Cameos, Tortoise-shell, Mosaics. GOUACHES made by GUGLIELMO GIUSTI, The best Artist of Italy. ITALIAN ART AND INDUSTRY. Founded in 1836. FIXED PRICES Marked in plain figures on every object. English conversation and correspondence. I^p° No commission paid to Couriers, Guides, Porters, etc. "^^ J. Durst, PHARMACEUTICAL CHEMIST By Examination. Proprietor of The Anglo-AmeFiean Pharmacy. NAPLES: 31-35 LARGO GAROPALO (CHIAJA). B R O G I ' S Photographs of Naples and Neighbourhood. GUIDO QUID I, Agent, 19 Bis Chiatanione, Naples. Branch of the Florence House. E, o 3vn E LEWIS PIALE, ENGLISH AND AMERICAN BOOKSELLER AND STATIONER. Circulating' Library of 20,000 Volumes in English, French, German, and Italian. The most extensive in Borne, yeicly augmented and arranged. READING ROOMS. UNMOUNTED PHOTOGRAPHS OF ROME. ALBUMS WITH niOTOGRAPHS. 1 and 2 PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. 107 and 108 VIA BABUINO. Furchheim, EnoUsb anC> German Bookseller, 59 PIAZZA DEI MAETIRL PALAZZO PAETANNA. Large Stock of English, French, German, and Italian Lit- erature ; Photographs and Albums ; Stationery. Agent for Dr. Russell Forbes's Publications ; for Galignani's Messenger, The New York Herald, and other Newspapers. Information to travellers most -willingly given. Established 1873. Recent Publications. POMPEII, POPULAR AND PRACTICAL. An Easy Booh on a Difficult Subject. By E. N. Rolpe, B.A., Author of '■'■ Fompeii, Past and Present;" Editor of "A Complete Handbook to the Naples Museum." Second and Revised Edition, 1893. Price 5 fr. TRAVEL TALK IN ITALY. A Manual of English and Italian Conversation, preceded by a Shoi^t Grammar, and a Vocabulary of tlie most necessary words, loith their Pronunciation. Compiled for the special use of English- speaking Travellers in Italy by Professor M. Field. Cloth. Price 2 fr. BIBLIOGRAFIA DI POMPEI, ERCOLANO, E STA- SIA. Compilata da Fuiedricii Furchiieim, Librajo. Seconda Edizione, riveduta e notevolmente aumentata, 189L (Description of more than Five Hundred Works.) Limited to Four Hundred numbered Copies. Price 6 fr. CAPRI. By Dr. Alan Walters. An excellent Handbook for Tourists, giving more than Forty " Rambles ' on the Island. 12mo, with a Map. Price 1 fr. The FOOTSTEPS of S. PAUL in ROME. (>riNl(.>NS OF TUK I'KKSS. Tlie Rev. Dr. James Macgre!:cor, writinpf from Edinburgh, say.s, " I read last night for the first time, and liave now lying before me, 'The Footsteps of S. Paul in Rome.' Few books of late have given me more jileasure." " We have also received a copy of ' Footsteps of S. Paul in Rome,' by tlio same author, and can only sjicak of it in terms of tlie higliest commenda- tion." — Trard. "The work is very valuable. It is as true an account as probably will be written of S. Paul's stay in Home." ^Newport {R. I.) Nrvs. Profes-sor Francis W. Upham of New York says, "The essay is evidently a labour of love — a model of patient thought and accurate investigation, and of great interest and value." "Full of interest, as being connected with Paul's everyday life, of which but very little is known to the great mass of Christendom."— CAf?sca Telegraph. THE ROMAN CATACOMBS. OPINIONS 01'' TIIK I'KESS. " IVfr. Russell Forbes has at last supplied a concise, practical, and original illustrated handbook for the small price of two shillings. The object of his historical manual is to tell the facts from iicrsonal study and exploration- biased oidy for the truth." — Itoman News. "Full of useful antiquarian lore, and suitably illustrated."— LfVc/vov/ WurJit. "It is compact, well printed, and copiously illustrated with clear wood- cuts."— .5rt;«>"rfo)/ Review. "A great amount of lucid and well-arranged information aViout these curi- ous and interesting early Christian cemeteries."— .S'C()-(/rt^ Review. nr'jr J T^F ' '" UC SOUTHtRN H[ (ilONAl L IBHAHY I ACIl IT Y AA 000 917 672 8