ftfi &!&!&! &5-&i-&!^ *- .*. J( v? "V* f"i*f ^^ * M J THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA THE GASTRONOMY COLLECTION OF GEORGE HOLL *?^5' illJ . a, a, i .1, $ M j 1, . ^9fC% t -SB* . -ITrls. i2RX> . a. A. a . a . a. a. a . a. a . .JU& JLJL jfcjfe J f TST (\r W3 ** S*S J.^ ' if- ,. M ^M '^ .^ .^. i^ -\- A . ; \. A . A. A. 2) T\J) . ' *$ -^^ >ffw x $, Jfc j j^ j -SR. -"STR. & ..1S3S. JSnE. '."ffl-. ^s. -3^i. ,^E .*ffi. .*. . ; '^ : ' ^= 1 - -^& ,-^C, . .*iE. ,afe. jfe . THE EPICUREAN THE EPICUREAN A COMPLETE TREATISE OF ANALYTICAL AND PRACTICAL STUDIES ON THE CULINARY ART INCLUDING Table and Wine Service, How to Prepare and Cook Dishes, an Index for Marketing, a Great Variety of Bills of Fare for Breakfasts, Luncheons, Dinners- Suppers, Ambigus, Buffets, etc,, and a Selection of Interesting Bills of Fare of Delmonico's, from 1862 to 1894, MAKING A FRANCO-AMERICAN CULINARY ENCYCLOPEDIA BY CHARLES RANHOFER, FORMER CHEF OF DELMONICO'S, tfonorary President of the "Societe Culinaire Philanthropique," of New Yorh. ILLUSTRATED WITH 800 PLATES. Published by THE HOTEL MONTHLY PRESS 950 Merchandise Mart < Chicago, 111. Copyright 1920 By Rose Ranhofer PREFACE. PUBLISHING this work I have endeavored to fill a much needed want viz: the best and most effectual manner of preparing healthy and nutritious food. This edition contains innumerable recipes which I have simplified and explained in a comprehensive manner so as to meet the wants of all. It suggests, also, many useful and important hints to those about entering the profession. The book is illustrated and contains instructions how to prepare, garnish and serve according to the traditional rules of our most able predecessors, and now followed by the principal chefs of France and the United States. In some instances, where it was deemed necessary to differ from the standard rules and methods in order to cater to the various tastes, changes have been made. The book is divided into twenty-four chapters : Table Service, Bills of Fare, Supplies, Elementary Methods, Soups, Stocks, Hot and Cold Sauces, Garnishings, Hot and Cold Side Dishes, Shell Fish, Crustaceans, Fish, Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, Pork, Poultry, Game, Miscellaneous Entrees, Cold Dishes, Vegetables, Cereals, Hot and Cold Desserts, Pastry, Bakery, Confectionery, Ices, Fruit, Wines and Preserves, ]S r ot relying solely on my experience and knowledge, I have quoted from the most illustrious modern author, my much beloved friend and colleague, Urbain Dubois, ex-chef at the Court of Germany, and it gives me sincere pleasure to thank him for his generous assistance. The profession will acknowledge its indebtedness to the Messrs. Delmonico for the interest shown by them in developing the gastronomic art in this country. Many will recall the business receptions given to distinguished guests under the supervision and direction of Delmonico. Mention may be made of the following dinners : to President U. S. Grant, to President A. Johnson, to the Grand Duke Alexis of Eussia, to Gen. Prim, to Charles Dickens, to Sir Morton Peto, to Aug. Belmont, to Giraud Foster, to Gen. Cutting, to Luckmeyer, the so-called "Black Swan Dinner," to Admiral Eenaud, to Prof. Morse, to Bartholdi, to De Lesseps, to the Comte de Paris, also the ball given to the Eussian Admiral and Fleet, and the Greek dinner. viii PREFACE. I have entitled this work THE EPICUREAN, and have justly dedicated it to the memory of Messrs. Delmonico, as a token of my gratitude and sincere esteem. Their world-wide reputation continues to be maintained by Mr. C. C. Delmonico. In conclusion I feel that my experience will be useful to those seeking infor- mation in the gastronomic art. Hoping the public will appreciate my efforts, I remain respectfully, CHAELES RANHOFER. CIJ 18*27. BEA.VKR & SOUTH WJSrS 22BROAU STitBKT MADISON SQUARE- Office Beaver & South WWSts COlsTTElSTTS. NUMBERS. TABLE SERVICE AND BILLS OF FARE, ELEMENTARY METHODS AND UTENSILS, 1- 182 SOUPS, ... 183- 384 SAUCES, 385- 635 GARNISHINGS, ..... 636 ~ 77 COLD SIDE DISHES, 77 1~ 835 HOT SIDE DISHES, 836- 993 MOLLUSKS AND CRUSTACEANS, 994-1093 F ISH , 1094-1312 BEEF, ............. 1313-1478 VEAL, .......... 1479-1584 MUTTON, 1585-1660 LAMB, ........... 1661-1770 PORK, : 1771-1820 POULTRY, 1821-2045 GAME, 2046-2209 MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES, 2210-2408 COLD SERVICE, 2409-2676 VEGETABLES, 2677-2849 EGGS, 2850-2951 FARINACEOUS, 2952-2989 HOT SWEET ENTREMETS, 2990-3124 COLD SWEET ENTREMETS, 3125-3224 PASTRY 3225-3404 BAKERY, - 3405-3424 ICES, .... 3424-3613 CONFECTIONERY, .......... 3614-3704 WINES, 3705-3715 LAST CENTURY TABLES, ......... DELMONICO'S MENUS FROM 1861 TO 1894, INDEX, ..... > PAGE. 1 169 239 288 331 355 368 401 427 471 507 531 547 569 583 637 675 723 815 847 865 873 907 931 969 977 1029 1061 1068 1073 1139 SERVICE. PAGE. BREAKFASTS, 13 Bills of Fare, 13 DINNERS, American Service (Plate), 1 American Service, Bills of Fare, 1 American Service, Reception, 6 American Service, Table Service, 5 American Service, Wines and Cordials (Plate), French Service (Plate), French Service, Necessary Material, 9 French Service, To Set the Table, 9 Russian Service (Plate), . . 10 LUNCHEONS, I 3 MODEL MARKET LIST, 21 SUPPERS, Ambigu, Buffet, 11 SUPPLIES, BILLS OF FARE, 25 Ambigu, 147 Ambigu Picnic, 145 Breakfasts (Plate), 25 Buffet Large I 55 Buffet Suppers, 14 fi Dancing Party, I 39 Delmonico's, from 1862 to 1804, 1 78 Dinners, ... 58 Garden party, Invalids, Lunches, ..... Restaurant Breakfast, I 64 Restaurant Dinner, Restaurant Lunch, 165 Restaurant Supper, 167 Suppers, Suppers, Sideboard, 142 Suppers, Sideboard, English, Suppers, Sideboard, Large, 161 Suppers, Small, DESIGNS FOR TABLES IN THE LAST CEINTUHY, . 1 7C THE EPICUREAN. SERVICE, AMEEICAN, FEENCH, ETJSSIAN-FOE BEEAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNEE, SUPPEE, COLLATION OE AMBIGU, DINNER SERVICE-AMERICAN STYLE- AND BILL OF TARE (Dinner Service & I'Amfricaine et le Menu). The success of a dinner depends upon good cooking, the manner in which it is served, and especially on entertaining congenial guests. The American service is copied more or less from the French and Russian, and remodeled to the tastes and customs of this country ; as it varies some- what from all others, a few instructions may be found useful to those desirous of learning the difference existing between them. THE BILL OF FARE (MENU). Menus are made for breakfasts, luncheons and suppers, but the most important one is for the dinner ; these menus are generally composed a few days in advance to enable the necessary pro- visions to be purchased, so that on the day of the dinner, there has been ample time to prepare everything necessary, consequently much confusion is avoided and the work better done. In carrying out the order the menu should be strictly followed, in fact, it must be an obliga- tory rule to do so. Making out the bills of fare Is the duty of the head cook, who composes and writes them according to the latitude he enjoys and the resources he has at hand. BILLS OF FARE FOR DINNER. Should the menu be intended for a dinner including ladies, it must be composed of light, fancy dishes with a pretty dessert; if, on the contrary, it is intended for gentlemen alone, then it must be shorter and more substantial. If the dinner be given in honor of any distinguished foreign guest, then a place must be allowed on the menu to include a dish or several dishes of his own nationality; avoid repeating the same names in the same menu. Let the sauces be of different colors, one following the other. Also vary the color of the meats as far as possible, from one course to the other. Offer on the menus all foods in their respective seasons, and let the early products be of the finest quality (consult a general market list to find the seasonable produce), and only use preserved articles when no others can be obtained. If the menus are hand written they must be very legible. Menus are indispensable for service a rAmericaine; there should be one for each guest, for as 2 THE EPICUREAN. no dish served from the kitchen appears on the table, every one must be informed beforehand of what the dinner is composed, and those dishes that are to follow each other. Menus must be both simple and elegant, and of a size to allow them to be easily placed in the pocket without folding, as it is the general desire to keep the bill of fare of a dinner at which one has assisted. A few important observations necessary to bills of fare and their classification are here given: OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL. Oysters appear on the menu the same as in the Russian service; on French bills of fare they do not mention them. Suppress oysters in every month not containing the letter R, such as ; May, June, July and August, and serve Little Neck clams instead. SOUPS. Soups are served after the oysters. One clear and one thick soup should be selected but if only one is needed, give the preference to the clear soup. HORS-D\EUVRE, SIDE OR LIGHT DISHES. Hot hors-d'oauvre are, generally, timbales, croustades, cromesquis, palmettes, mousselines, bouchees, cannelons, cassolettes, rissoles, etc. With the same course serve cold side dishes, such as olives, radishes, canapes, caviare, pickled tunny, anchovies, etc. In the French service, the fish and the solid joints come under the head of releve"s or removes. In the American and English service, first comes the fish, then the removes. FISH. If the fish be boiled or braized, add potatoes to the menu; if broiled or sauted, some cucumber salad; and, if fried, serve plain or with a light sauce. REMOVES OR RELEVES. The releves or solid joints are composed of saddles, eiiher of veal, mutton, lamb, venison and antelope, or else beef tenderloins or middle short loins. Turkey, goose, capon, pullets, ducks, etc., may be served, accompanied by one or two vegetables. ENTREES. Place on the bill of fare first the heaviest entree, and conclude with the lightest; they must be previously cut up so as to avoid carving. No fish figures in the American service as an entree, but terrapin or crabs may be allowed; also lobsters, shrimps, frogs, croquettes, etc. Each entree should be accompanied by a vegetable, served separately, except when it is one of those described above, such as terrapin, etc. PUNCH OR SHERBETS. A punch or sherbet is always served after the entrees and before the roast; do not make an extra heading on the menu for these, only placing them on a line by themselves, for instance: Roman punch or American sherbet. ROASTS. Roasts are served after the sherbet; a game roast is usually preferred, but poultry, either truffled or not, may be substituted: such as turkey, capon, pullet, duck, guinea-fowl, squabs, etc.; also roasted butcher's meat; but game is usually considered to be more choice. COLD DISHES. Cold dishes come after the roast, and before the hot dessert; they are served with green salads; terrines of foies-gras and boned turkey are also served as a second roast. (In the French service these cold dishes are classified as the last entree.) HOT SWEET DISHES OR ENTREMETS. These appear after the roast; they are composed of puddings, crusts, fried creams, fritters, pancakes, borders, omelets, and souffles, and form a separate course by themselves. COLD SWEET DISHES OR ENTREMETS. The cold sweet entremets come after the hot and are composed of jellies, bavarois, creams, blanc-manges, rnace'doines, charlottes and large cakes, and form another course. DESSERT. After the cold entremets come the dessert, composed of cheese, fresh fruits, preserved fruits, cakes, jams, dried fruits, candied fruits, bonbons, mottoes, papillotes, victorias, pyramids, frozen puddings, plombieres, ices, ice cream and small fancy cakes, then the coffee and cordials. TABLE SERVICE. SERVICE OP WINES AND CORDIALS (Service des Vins et Liqueurs). The steward must inform and specify to the butler the wine to be served at each separate course. However important the dinner may be, still decanters of ordinary red and white wine must be placed on the table. The selection of the finer wines is the host's duty, he making bis choice when ordering the bill of fare. The steward's duty is to see that the wines are served at a proper temperature. All white wines must be served cold. Sherry and Xeres cool. Bordeaux between 55 and 60 degrees, Fahrenheit, according to its growth. Burgundy between 50 and 55 degrees. Champagnes, cold or iced, or in sherbets. Dessert wines cool. For choosing wines consult the table on wines of Delmonico's cellar. (No. 3709.) Russian Sideboards. Absinthe, Vermuth Bitters, Kumrnel, Mineral Waters, including Apol- linaris, Clysmic, St. Galmier and Vichy. FIRST SERVICE. With Oysters. Sauterne, Barsac, Graves, Mont Kachet, Chablis. After the Soup. Madeira, Sherry or Xeres. With Fish. (Rhine wines) Johannisberger, Marcobrunner, Hochheimer, Laubenheimer, Lieb- fraumilch, Steinberger. (Moselle) Brauneberger, Zeltinger, Berncasteler. With Removes. Cote St. Jacques, Moulin-a-vent, Macon, Clos de Vougeot, Beaune. With Entrees. St. Emilion, Medoc du Bordelais, St. Julien. Dry champagnes for certain countries. Iced Punches and Sherbets, Rum, Madeira. SECOND SERVICE. With Roasts. (Burgundies) Pommard, Nuits, Gorton, Chambertin, Romance Conti. Cold Roasts. Vin de Faille, Steinberger. With Hot Desserts. (Bordeaux) Chateau Margaux, Leoville, Laffitte, Chateau Larose, Pontet- Canet, St. Pierre, Cotes de Rhone, Hermitage and C6te-R6tie. (Red Champagne) Bouzy, Verzenay, Porto Premiere. THIRD SERVICE. With Dessert. (Burgundy) Volnay, Mousseux. (Champagnes) Delmonico, Roederer, Ros6 Mousseux, Pommery, Cliquot, Perrier-Jouet, Moe't, Mumm. Wine Liquors. Muscatel, Malaga, Alicante, Malvoisie of Madeira, Lacryma Chris ti, red and white Cape, Tokay, Constance, Schiraz. Cordials. Curacoa, Kirsch, Cognac, Chartreuse, Maraschino, Prunelle, Anisette, Benedic- tine. Beers. Bass' Ales, Porter, Tivoli, Milwaukee. THE EPICUREAN. WINES AND LIQUOES USUALLY GALLED TOR (Vins et Liqueurs Gfoeralement Servis). A DINNER OF AMERICANS. EECEPTION-ROOM. Sherry, Bitters, DINNER WINES. Haut Sauterne, Amontillado, Sherry, Perrier-Jouet Brut, A DINNER OF FRENCHMEN. RECEPTION-ROOM. Sherry and Bitters, Vermuth, DINNER WINES. Graves, Xeres, Lafaurie, St. Pierre, Beaujolais, Liquors. A DINNER OF GERMANS. No wines or mineral- waters in the reception-room. DINNER WINES. Niersteiner, Sherry, Hochheimer, St. Estephe, Pommery Sec. Beaune, Liquors. American service, like the Russian, must be served quickly and hot. As easily understood by the following card, a dinner of ten minute intervals can be served with fourteen courses in two hours and twenty minutes and if at eight minute intervals, in one hour and fifty-two minutes, the same as an eight course dinner of ten minute intervals will take one hour and twenty minutes, so at eight minute intervals it will take one hour and four minutes. Cocktails. Barsac, Pontet Canet, Liquors. Absinthe. Yellow Cliquot, 1 2 8 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 Figure 1 36 covers. 10 minutes. 2 hours 20 8 minutes. 1 hour 51. Figure 224 covers. 10 minutes. 2 hours 10. 8 minutes. 1 hour 44. Figure 316 covers. 10 minutes. 2 hours. 8 minutes. 1 hour 36. Figure 4 12 covers. 10 minutes. 1 hour 50. 8 minutes. 1 hour 28. Oysters. 2 Soups. S. D. hot and cold. 2 Fish, potatoes. 1 Remove, vegetables. 1 Entree, vegetables. 1 Entree, vegetables. 1 Entree, vegetables. 1 Punch. 1 or 2 Roasts. 1 or 2 Colds, salad. 1 Hot sweet dessert. 1 or 2 Cold sweet des'rts ( 1 or 2 Ices. { Dessert. Oysters. 2 Soups. S D. hot and cold. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Remove, vegetables. 1 Entree, vegetables. 1 Entree, vegetables. Oysters. 2 Soups. S. D. hot and cold. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Remove, vegetables. 1 Entree, vegetables. 1 Entree, vegetables. Oysters. 2 Soups. S. D. hot and cold. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Remove, vegetables. 1 Entree, vegetables. 1 Entree, vegetables. 1 Punch. 1 Roast. 1 Cold salad. 1 Hot sweet dessert. 2 Cold sweet desserts. ( 2 Ices. | Dessert. 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. 1 Hot sweet dessert. 2 Cold sweet desserts. ( 2 Ices. j Dessert. 1 Hot dessert. ( 1 Ice. ( Dessert. 1 2 8 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 18 14 Figure 510 covers. 10 minutes. 1 hour 42. 8 minutes. 1 hour 20. Figure 6 8 covers. 16 minutes. 1 hour SO. 8 minutes. 1 hour 12. Figure ~ 6 covers. 16 minutes. 1 hour 20. 8 minutes. 1 hour 10. Figure 8 4 covers. 10 minutes. 1 hour 10. 8 minutes. 56. Figure 9 4 covers. 10 minutes. 1 hour. 8 minutes. 48. Oysters. 2 Soups. S. D. hot and cold. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Remove, veg'bles. 1 Entree, veg'bles. Oysters. 2 Soups. Oysters. 1 Soup. Oysters. 1 Soup. Oysters. 1 Soup. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Fish, potatoes. 1 Entree, veg'bles. 1 Entree, veg'bles. 1 Entree, veg'bles. 1 Entree, veg'bles. 2 Entree, veg'bles. 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. 1 Punch. 1 Roast, salad. 1 Roast, salad. 1 Hot sweet dess'rt. 1 Hot sweet dess'rt. 1 Hot sweet dess'rt. ( 1 Ice. | Dessert. ( 1 Ice. ( Dessert. ( 1 Ice. \ Dessert. j 1 Ice. i Dessert. Dessert. TABLE SERVICE. 5 THE DINNER TABLE, RECEPTION TABLE SERVICE AND WINES. (Le Convert, Reception, Service de Table et les Vins.) TABLE SERVICE FOR TWENTY-FOUR PERSONS. An oblong shaped table is preferable for a large dinner party, the feet being less incommo- dious; it must at least be six or seven feet wide and twenty-two feet long, with rounded ends. This shaped table is most generally used, although some prefer round, or horse-shoe ones, or an oblong with square ends, and many other fanciful shapes, depending entirely on the size of the room and the taste of the host. Tables can be lengthened according to the number of seats desired ; the space allowed for each guest is, for a square table with square ends, two feet apart between each plate; when the ends are curved, the space for the corners must be twenty-two inches apart, and if entirely round, twenty inches. Cover a table twenty-two by seven with a felt cover made for the purpose, then over this lay a tablecloth twenty-four feet long and eight or nine feet wide, being careful that it is exceedingly white and smooth, having no creases whatever. Fold a well starched, large napkin, pinch it triangularly, and place it in the center of the table; have twenty-four smaller napkins also well starched, folded and pinched, and place these at the edge of the table and on each one set a plate with another napkin on top, folded either shaped as a boat, a tulip, or any other pretty design, or else the napkin may be simply folded square. The bread is placed either under the folds or in the center of the napkin, according to the manner in which it is displayed, or on a small plate to the left of the cover. Another way is to place the bread in front of the napkin. On the left of each plate, lay a table fork and also a fish fork. On the right set a table knife, a silver fish knife, a soup spoon, also a small fork for oysters or Little Neck clams In front, but slightly toward the right of each plate, set a small individual salt-cellar. The double silver pepper castors containing black and red pepper are distributed two on each side, and two at each end of the table, with eight single ones between the double ones. Glasses are placed in a semi-circle either in front of the plate or else on the right; arrange these according to the courses to be served. First, water glass; second, white wine; third, sherry; fourth, Rhine wine; fifth, champagne; and sixth, Bordeaux. Before serving the entrees remove the white wine, Sherry and Rhine wine glasses and replace them by fine Bordeaux and Burgundy glasses. Glasses intended for dessert wines and liquors, are only put on the table with the dessert. THE CENTER LINE OF THE TABLE. In the center of the table have a large piece of silverware decorated with plants, ferns and natural flowers, or else a high vase or simply a basket of flowers. These baskets or other decora- tions may be filled with one, or several kinds of variegated flowers, mingling red and white, scarlet and lilac, or Parma violets, or tulips and orchids, these produce a brilliant effect. (The entire house, staircases, halls, etc., may also be decorated with plants, palms, lemon and orange trees, or rubber plants. Mantels and mirrors to be also wreathed with flowers, or else scattered about in clusters, and have hanging baskets tastefully arranged in prominent corners, so as to add to the general beautiful effect.) On each side of the center piece and on the center line have two prettily arranged baskets con- taining seasonable or hot-house fruits; on each side of these, set an ornamental piece, either made of nougat, gum-paste or sugar candy, or should these high pieces not be desirable, others may be substituted either of bronze, or else stands covered with flowers, etc. On each end of these pieces set either candelabras or lamps, and beyond these high stands of graduated tiers filled with bonbons, cornucopias, Victorias, bonbon boxes, etc., all of them form- ing the center line of the table. Around this line, and at about twenty to twenty-four inches from the edge, draw a line the same shape as the table, and on this place decanter stands for decan- tered wine; two for sherry, four for white wine, and four for red Bordeaux, making ten in all, and the same quantity of decanter stands for decanters containing water, or instead of ten, twenty- four smaller ones may be substituted, one for each person. Place at intervening spaces, two compote dishes with stewed fruits, four stands for small fancy cakes, two compote dishes for candied or dried fruits, nuts, etc., or else fresh strawberries, raspberries or mulberries, if in season, a saucerful for each person, and finish by interlacing through these dishes as well as the decanters, strings of smilax or any other pretty creeping vine, 6 THE EPICUREAN. following around about twenty-four inches from the edge of the table; set into this verdure at various parts, clusters of natural flowers. A table arranged according to this description will be found to have a most charming and pleasing effect. The diagram of the table should be obtained, and have the names of each guest tastefully written on fancy cards ; lay one of these on the right hand glass of each person, in a promi- nent manner so that it can be read from a distance which will greatly facilitate the seating of the guests. Procure bouquets of flowers for the ladies, set in fancy vases, tying them with ribbons, and having a pin attached to enable them to fasten them on to their dresses; gentlemen's button- hole bouquets should also be placed in vases. All these flowers must be in front, but slightly toward the left of each person. The bills of fare or menus should be placed on the left side, either in silver stands (Fig. 197), or set beside the plate. Tne host should always be seated so as to face the door leading into the dining-room. The hostess on the other end of the table directly opposite, their respective seats being at the top and bottom of the table. The seat of honor for a lady is on the right hand of the host, and naturally on the right hand of the hostess for a gentleman. The left hand may also be utilized as seats of honor but of minor importance. A dining room should be kept at a comfortable temperature. The sideboard should be placed at one side of the table, and on this or in the drawers and com- partments everything must be arranged in thorough order so as to have them handy, thus avoiding all confusion during dinner. The entire dessert service including wines to be arranged tastefully on the sideboard, giv- ing a very pretty effect to the room. A service table must either be in the dining-room behind a screen or in a pantry close by; it must contain one or several carving boards, sundry knives and forks, ladles, chafing dishes, etc. The service must be rapid and the dishes served hot; avoid having anything cooked in advance except the large pieces. Entries and all smaller dishes should be prepared according to their successive order, as the dinner progresses, at an interval of two or three courses, which means about ten or twenty minutes apart. A good steward can always manage to protract the dinner in case the cook is behind time, but it is his duty to inform those in the kitchen at least ten minutes beforehand so as to prevent any possible delay; he must also have a duplicate bill of fare from the kitchen identical with the one on the table, and classified accord- ing to the service, so as to be able to consult it in order to know exactly which dish follows the other. When the dinner is ready, the steward must place his help in their respective posi- tions, and give them final instructions regarding their duties; they should be attired in dress suits, white ties and gloves, and wear no jewelry whatever. In order to serve a ceremonial dinner for twenty-four persons, it will require: a steward, a butler, a carver and six waiters; carefully intrusting the care of the wines to the most intelligent, and the carving to the most expert; the remaining six being for the special table service, they must remain in their respective places to be at the call of the guests should their services be required. RECEPTION. The gentlemen are to be received by a waiter, who before introducing them into the reception room, takes their overeoats, canes, hats, umbrellas, etc., leaving these articles in a place set aside for this purpose, near the reception room, then hands each gentleman an envelope addressed to himself in which there will be found a card bearing the name of the lady he is to escort to the dining-room, and who is to be seated on his right hand during dinner. Two other waiters attired in full dress, introduce the gentlemen into the reception room ad- joining the dining-room, the doors to the latter being closed; in the reception room there should be a small Russian buffet, or simply serve some sherry, Xeres, bitters, vermuth and absinthe, to be handed round on trays to each guest as he arrives. It is absolutely necessary to have a lady's maid to receive the ladies, lay aside their outer gar- ments, or any article they may desire to confide to her care; these must be arranged in such a manner as to be easily returned to their respective owners. The maid must remain and wait, in order to be continually at the disposal of the lady guests. "When all the invited guests have arrived and been duly introduced, the dinner hour having struck, the steward opens the dining-room doors bows to the host, this being the signal to an- nounce that dinner is served. The hostess enters the dining-room first, on the arm of the gentleman in whose honor the din- ner is given, followed by the other guests, the host being last. Each one sits down at the seats indicated on the cards, and when all are comfortably seated the dinner begins. TABLE SERVICE. 7 The service must be performed silently, a look alone from the steward sufficing for each man to do his duty. Every article handed round must be on a silver salver. THE SERVICE. Oysters. Little Neck clams are passed around, beginning on one side by the lady on the right and the other side by the gentleman on the right, these being the most distinguished guests ; change this method at each course, those being served last before, being the first now. The butler will pour out the Chablis, stating the name of each wine he serves. Soup. There are usually two soups to select from. While serving green turtle offer at the same time lemon cut in quarters. Sherry should be served with this course. Side Dishes. Pass hot hors-d'oeuvre ; these are served on warm plates. Serve the cold hors d'oeuvre at the same time, and should the guest prefer the latter, remove the hot plate at once and substitute a cold one for it. Sherry or Xeres should accompany this course. Fish. If there be two kinds of fish, offer the selection, and pass round the one preferred; should it be boiled or braized fish, have potatoes served at the same time; if broiled or sauted thinly sliced seasoned fresh cucumbers must accompany it, and if fried fish such as whitebait, serve with thin slices of buttered brown bread and quarters of lemon. Serve Rhine wine or white Bordeaux. Removes or Solid Joints. The removes may be placed on the table before being taken off for carving; if it be a saddle of venison, it should be cooked rare, passing currant jelly at the same time. A saddle of mutton must also be rare and very hot; it can be cut lengthwise at an angle in thin slices or across, although the first way is preferable; serve both these on very hot plates, and have one or two vegetables accompanying them. Serve champagne. Entrees. The entrees must be served one after the other without placing them on the table beforehand; they must be served on hot plates with one vegetable for each entree, to be either passed round separately or else carefully laid on the same plate, unless it is desired that they be dressed; in this case dress and present to each guest. Serve Bordeaux at the first entree, and an extra quality of wine at the last ; continue serving champagne to those who prefer to drink it until the roast. INTERVAL. SECOND SERVICE. Iced Punch or Sherbet. Should there be no ladies present, cigarettes can be handed round at the same time. Remove the two white wine and sherry glasses, and replace them by those used for Burgundy, also remove the cold side dishes. Ten to fifteen minutes must now be allowed between the courses. Roasts. The roast may be displayed on the table before carving, this being frequently requested by epicures; should there be several roasts, carve them all at the same time and pass them round according to desire, adding a little watercress for poultry, and should there be can- vas-back duck, let currant jelly and fried hominy be served with also a mayonnaise of celery. Serve the Burgundy from bottles laid flat in baskets (Fig. 767) holding the basket in the right hand and a white napkin in the left. Cold. Serve the cold dishes after the roast, these to be either goose livers (foies-gras) with truffles or boned turkey. The foies-gras must have a spoon to remove it with, and the boned turkey be cut into thin slices, and offer both to the guest at the same time, accompanied by green salads. Serve Johannisberg or Vin de Faille. Now remove everything from the table with the exception of the dessert, and to avoid using a brush lift up the extra napkins in front of each person, folding them in two so that the table is neat and clean without being obliged to use a brush or scraper. Lay the dessert plates on the table, and continue the service for the hot dessert. Hot Sweet Entremets. Make a distinct service for the hot entremets, then serve the cheese. Serve a fine Laffitte Bordeaux. Cold Sweet Entremets. Make another service for the cold entremets and ices. Dessert. Instead of serving the cheese after the hot entremets it may be done now, which is in fact its proper place; pass around the fresh fruits, stewed, candied and dried fruits, bonbon cases, bonbons, mottoes, ices, strawberries and raspberries with cream when in season, passing cakes around at the same time. THE EPICUREAN. Serve Madeira wine, Muscatel and Frontignan, also plates of salted almonds. CONCLUSION OF THE DINNER. It is now time for the hostess to bow, push back her chair and prepare to rise, this being a signal for the ladies to retire: after they have returned to the drawing-room, coffee is passed round on a salver containing spoons, hot water, sugar and cream. A few moments later another waiter comes forward with an empty tray to remove the cups the ladies hand him. The gentlemen partake of their coffee in the dining-room; at the same time servp them Kirsch, brandy, chartreuse, cigars and cigarettes. The doors are closed and the ladies and waiters have re- tired so as to allow the gentlemen more freedom to talk among themselves, still it will be necessary to enter the drawing room and dining-room occasionally in order to see whether anything be needed so as to avoid being called as much as possible. After half an hour or so, the gentlemen will rejoin the ladies in the drawing-room and then tea is served. The tea service is accomplished by passing around on trays, tea, sugar, hot water, cream, cups, spoons and slices of lemon. A few moments later another waiter removes the empty cups on a tray. After the tea the service is considered to be ended. FRENCH SERVICE (Service a la Tranpaise). There are two different services in use: The French and the Russian. Although recognizing the priority of both of these services, it will be well to mention the dif- ference existing between them and the English and the American service; first, they differ in the classification of the bills of fare and certain changes in the table service, these alone are sufficient to be interesting. The old style of French service threatens to disappear entirely and is rarely used, except on very rare occasions. The three services placed on the table, one after the other, had certainly the advantage of displaying the culinary labor as well as the most variegated and rare products by exhibiting them in all their profuseness. But the great inconvenience is the preparation of dishes beforehand in the kitchen in order to have each service ready at once and to keep them hot in heaters before beginning to serve the dinner. The dishes for the first course are placed on tne table in chafing dishes provided with covers, to be lifted off when the guests are seated, and left on the table till ready to be carved. Of course this inconvenience is somewhat remedied by keeping the heaters and chafing dishes at a given heat, and there must be placed near the table, either behind a screen in the dining- room or else in an adjoining pantry, a bain-marie with all the necessary sauces required for the TABLE SERVICE. 9 dinner, and as soon as the meats are carved, each one is to be covered with its respective sauce before being handed around. But notwithstanding all possible care and attention the entrees are apt to lose much of their finer qualities by the very act of being cooked and dressed beforehand, then kept hot in these heaters or chafing dishes. Still this could scarcely have been the sole cause for abandoning the old system, for it con- tinued in usage for several centuries. "We are, however, obliged to recognize that first-class families have ceased to make a display of the great luxuriousness indulged in, in the past; to-day they are more restrained, the help less numerous and the chief cook frequently alone with one kitchen assistant, having no longer an extra man for pastry, confectionery and ices. The chef himself must see to the preparation of the pastry, ices and desserts. There is now scarcely to be found any house where for twelve persons they employ a chef, an assistant and a pastry cook and the remainder of the help corresponding to this great amount of luxury. The bills of fare are simpler; instead of dressing and arranging the service on the table itself, many houses have a mixed service; this is made by presenting the dishes on the table, then removing them to be carved. The general desire of the day is to dine quicker; taste changes with the fashion. The old French service is fast disappearing, and as it becomes more simple it gradually evolves into a mixed Russian and French service. FRENCH SERVICE FOR 24 PERSONS (Service a la Frangaise pour 24 Converts). The first service is composed of hors-d'oeuvre (side dishes), two soups, two removes, four hot entries, or two cold and two hot entrees. Remove the cold hors-d'oeuvre; serve the punch or sherbet. The second service is composed of two roasts to take the place of the removes; four entremets, two being of vegetables, one hot sweet entremets and one cold; these to replace the entrees; two entremets cakes to take the place of the cold entrees. Prepare the table for the dessert. The third service, or dessert, is composed of two shelved stands filled with bonbons, victorias, bonbon boxes, cossacks, two low stands or drums containing small fancy cakes, two basketfuls of fresh fruits, two assorted compotes, one orange jelly, one Bar-le-Duc jelly and two cheeses; two fancy pieces of nougat or candied sugar to replace the entremets cakes. The wines should be selected and served as indicated in another chapter, according to the taste and desire of the host. FRENCH SERVICE, DINNER FOR 24 PERSONS-TO SET THE TABLE (Service a la Fra^aise, Diner de 24 Converts Le Convert), The table must be sixteen to eighteen feet long and six to seven feet wide, with rounded cor- ners, covered with a table-cloth and having exactly in the center a high stand or epergne, or piece of silverware or bronze, filled with flowers. Continue the middle line with candelabras or lamps; leave a place for the chafing dishes and between these arrange the cold hors-d'oeuvre. Set the plates, the glasses to form a semicircle in front; the spoons and knives on the right and the forks on the left. Commence serving the most honored guest on each right side, and begin each separate service at the person served the last. All the dishes intended for the table should be dressed tastefully and the edges decorated with open- worked noodle borders; the meats laid symmetrically, the borders to be neither too high nor too much spread so that the dish covers can fit on easily; light bread borders can also be used. Decorate the meats with trimmed hatelets just before olacing them on the table. NECESSARY MATERIAL FOR 24 PERSONS (Materiel Nfcessaire ponr 24 Converts). Let the china, glassware, silver, cutlery and linen be as much alike as possible, have the glasses all plain or cut of the same pattern and shape; the china either all white, colored or gilt; the linen plain or damasked with large or small designs. The plates must be changed at each service as well as the knives and forks, they must be 10 THE EPICUREAN. washed immediately and used again for the following services, otherwise there will be as many knives and forks needed as plates, consequently far more material. 24 soup plates. 24 dessert knives and forks. 24 side-dish plates. 72 large forks. 72 dinner plates. 72 steel knives. 48 dessert plates. 24 silver or gilt knives. 24 soupspoons. 24 side-dish knives and forks. 24 coffee after-dinner cups. 24 coffeespoons Small salt cellars and pepper casters, one for each person. 12 radish dishes for 24 persons. A glass or silver knife rester for each person. 8 silver toothpick holders. 24 wine decanters and water bottles. 2 soup tureens. 2 chafing dishes and covers for removes. 4 chafing dishes and covers for entrees. 2 chafing dishes and covers for roasts. 24 water glasses. 24 Chablis glasses. 24 Bordeaux glasses. 24 Frontignan glasses. 24 fine Bordeaux glasses. 2 shelved stands. 2 silver baskets for fruits. 2 drums for fancy cakes. 2 dishes for jellies. 2 dishes for cheese. 4 compote stands. 4 dishes and covers for vegetables. 2 dishes for cold entrees. 24 sherry glasses. 24 Burgundy glasses. 24 liquor glasses. 24 Champagne flutes or goblets. 24 punch or sherbet glasses. Fine Baccarat glass is the handsomest; keep in reserve glasses of all kinds in case of an accident. The oil and vinegar caster, as well as the mustard pot, are to be passed around according to necessity. KUSSIAN SERVICE (Service & la Eusse). The habit we have of eating everything very hot and very fast comes to us from the " Russian service:" it differs from the French service in the very fact that nothing hot appears on the table, everything is cut up as needed, either in the kitchen or pantry. The carving should be performed TABLE SERVICE. 11 very neatly, having all the pieces of even size and placed at once symmetrically either in a circle or straight row on dishes for ten or less persons, then passed round to the guests, who help them- selves or are helped, according to their wish. As for the solid joints, removes or roasts, they can be served precisely the same, or else laid on very hot plates and handed directly to each guest. There must be a sufficiency of every kind of entree to serve for every person present. Should there be several and a variety of roasts and only one service required, then carve a third part of each one, or more of one than the other if certain dishes seem to be preferred. If there be several removes the same course can be pursued. As soon as one course is being passed around, the following one should be brought from the kitchen so that the dinner can be served uninterruptedly and eaten while hot and palatable. The cold meat pieces may be dressed and arranged on the table the same as the candelabras, silverware, bronze vases and flower baskets, all of these to be in the center line of the table, leav- ing eighteen inches of space uncovered between the end of the line and the edge of the table; between this center line and the edge draw a round or oval or any other desirable shape at eigh- teen inches above the edge. If there be two cold meat pieces lay them on the sides of the table and in the center of the line, and if four, then two at the sides and two at the ends in the center, if eight then have four at the corners between the sides and ends on the eighteen-inch line above the edge; finish to decorate this line with cold sweet dishes, baskets of fresh fruits, shelved stands filled with bonbons, cossacks, Victorias, drums containing small fancy cakes, competed dried fruits, etc., all these ornaments give the table a charming effect and should be arranged before the guests enter the dining-room. The straight line alone and the cold meat pieces can be also arranged, finishing at eighteen inches from the edge with garlands of leaves and flowers instead of the dessert, and when ready to serve the cold pieces, take them off and replace them by the taller desserts, shelved stands and drums, ranging the others here and there, half on either side of the table between the middle line and the flowers. Hot sweet entremets are always served as extras or " flying dishes," after the vegetables. The service is far less sumptuous and elegant than the French one, yet it pleases many and is very fashionable at the present time. The remainder of the service is exactly like the French. The old-fashioned bills of fare for the Russian service were classed differently to those of to-day; further on they will be found in great variety, appertaining to different epochs and a selection can be made of those most suitable; the service remains invariably the same, the only change being in the bill of fare. It is the custom in Russia to serve the iced punches or sherbets after the fish, but it is cer- tainly preferable to wait until the entrees are removed. SUPPER. (Le Souper.) " To sleep easily one must sup lightly." SUPPER BUFFET. Supper buffets are dressed on tables twelve to twenty feet long by four to five feet wide ; larger or smaller according to the number of guests and the richness of the bill of fare. Be careful that every article on the table shows to the best advantage, arranging each dish in a tasteful manner, yet observing certain indispensable rules so to facilitate the service that the buffet can be replen- ished and the dishes removed without the slightest confusion. The warm dishes should be served continuously without any delay and only a few at the time. Place a large piece of silverware in the center of the table to contain fruits, following the middle line on the length, then two large bas- kets of flowers and two pieces either of nougat or sugar, both ornamented with candied fruits, then two large cold-meat pieces and two stands filled with bonbon boxes, mottoes, victorias and bonbons, afterward two candelabras, and two entremets cakes to finish. In the front place a decorated salmon, behind on the other side of the center line stand the tenderloin of beef, and on each side of the fish and tenderloin, two medium-sized meat pieces, then the drums or high stands filled with small cakes. After this the small cold entrees, such as sandwiches and small rolls filled with rillettes; at each end of the table arrange the chicken and lobster salads. On one end of the table have plenty of material handy (according to the importance of the bill of fare), for hot service; have plates, soup tureens and chafing-dishes; behind, near the tenderloin of beef, put the ices, jellies and charlottes. These suppers are usually served after the first part of the dancing order is finished between 12 THE EPICUREAN. < eleven o'clock and one in the morning. Frequently small tables are used when there is sufficient room; these are generally reserved for the ladies. HOT DISHES. First part. The soup is either consomme in cups, or barley cream, or rice and almond milk. These must be perfectly clear in order to serve them in cups the same as the consomme. Oysters prepared in different styles: Fricasseed, Hollandaise, Bechamel, poulette, Viennese, crawfish sauce, etc.; oysters fried or stuffed, small bouchees filled with salpicon, chicken or game croquettes, sweetbreads, lobster, etc., Timbales and mousselines; terrapin, Maryland or Newburg for white, Baltimore and Maryland Club for brown; red-head ducks and canvas-back, also quails and squabs and sometimes deviled crabs, stuffed lobsters, scallops a la Brestoise or frog croquettes. COLD DISHES. Second part. Decorate the table with hors-d'oeuvre composed of radishes, olives, celery, anchovy toasts etc. Large pieces such as a richly decorated salmon, a tenderloin of beef garnished with vege- tables, boned turkey and capon, ham stuffed with pistachio nuts and truffles, a suckling pig, a boar's head, large dishes of turkey and capon, truffled or otherwise. Volieres of peacock, young swans, pheasants and guinea fowls ornamented with their natural feathers, large terrines of Stras- burg foies-gras, woodcock, snipe, reedbirds, quails, leverets, veal kernels and game " pains," en damier; bastions of roast game on croutons and garnished with fresh water-cress, pyramids of lobsters and crawfish and truffles. There are a great variety of elegant entrees, and among others the following ones may bo selected: Aspics of all kinds, red beef tongue, foies-gras, fillets of chickens, oysters, etc. ; white and brown chaufroids of partridge and chicken, also ravigote ducks, galantines of chicken, cream of pigeons, squabs and quails covered with chaufroid and decorated with black truffles and very green pistachio nuts; smoked and unsmoked tongue well glazed and dressed pyramid form; lamb chops au vert pre, ballotines of quails and squabs, ducklings pear shaped and thrushes a la Perigord; terrines of Nerac and ducks' livers a la Toulouse and young rabbit a la mode de Rouen; pains of chicken or game. Entrees of larks and reedbirds, chicken mayonnaise; lobster, shrimp, crab and salmon salads, also salad a la Russe, and at equal distances have plates of small breads garnished with rillettes and fine sandwiches. Select from all this gastronomical wealth those dishes liable to satisfy the appetite and at the same time make a beautiful display on the table. SWEET ENTREMETS AND DESSERTS. Third part. Intersperse among the cold dishes, liquor and fruit jellies, bavarois, " pains" of rice puddings, blanc-manges and charlotte russes, assorted creams and crowns, waffles filled with whipped cream, macedoines, assorted large dessert cakes, and timbales of waffles, brisselets and wheelbarrows of small meringues with flowers or fruits, horn of plenty and Sultan vases, cherry baskets, high mounted pieces of gum paste, royal icing, nougat, sugar candy, marchpane and almond paste. Fancy variegated ices, such as virgin cream and biscuit glace, tutti-frutti, Monte- limar, Neapolitan, harlequin, bombs and delicious creams with nuts; parfait with coffee and burnt almond cream, chestnut mousse and souffles sabayon; sponge and plombiere with fruits, Nesselrode puddings and fiori di latte; pineapple water ices and Favart souffles; fresh, seasonable and hot-house fruits; compotes of fruits, small fancy cakes, Genoese cakes and others iced; bon- bons, Victorias, cornucopias, Cossacks, mottoes and bonbon boxes. This third part of the menu is certainly the prettiest and most coquettish, and with these lux- uries ends the selection of dishes from which an elegant table may be set. Drinks. Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, wine punches, lemonades, grenadine and syrups of raspberry, currant or orgeat, coffee or tea. AMBIGU. A meal usually offered cold without any soup, and set on a table where removes are served at the same time, also entrees, side dishes and sweet desserts, and in which the service is blended into one, for no dishes are to be removed. Certain breakfasts, hunting luncheons, and supper? served in the midst of a ball, are also all called ambigu. TABLE SERVICE. 13 SERVICE FOR LUNCHEONS. Lunch is a small repast indulged in between breakfast and dinner. This meal is called lunch in English, in French gouter or taste, because it is less heavy than the others, and, as generally very little is eaten, it is only tasted. In France this old custom only exists in country towns where breakfast is very matinal; the English and Americans also lunch, for they breakfast early and only dine toward six or seven o'clock, therefore lunch is an indispensable meal with them. Larger and more ceremonious luncheons are frequently served; these are called " dinner luncheons," and many bills of fare for their preparation will be found later on. For family luncheons there are generally served cold meats, light entries, sandwiches, pastries, ices, preserves, etc., LUNCHEON FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, OR FOR LADIES ONLY, OR GENTLEMEN ONLY. FOR LADIES ONLY. Although set with more simplicity than the dinner table, nothing elegant must be lacking; in the center of the table place a flower decoration, either a double cornicopia, or a boat, or two dossers set back to back, or a vase, or a temple, etc. , according to the reason the lunch was offered to the guests. On each side place a piece made of nougat, one of spun sugar, and at each end a high stand on tiers filled with bonbons, Victorias, mottoes, etc. At eighteen or twenty-four inches from the edge, according to the width of the table, draw a line the same shape as the table and lay on this decanters of white and sherry wines, also water decanters, one for every two persons; two fruit dishes, four containing small fancy cakes, and TWO of dried fruits. Set semicircular around each plate as many glasses as there are wines; on the right hand lay a card bearing the name of the guest, and on the left a dress or buttonhole bou- quet and the menu standing against the flower vase. Decorate the sideboard with the dessert service; carve the meats near the dining-room, and see that everything is served very hot. Let the wines be of a proper temperature, and specify each one while serving it; as soon as every- thing is in complete order, open the doors and bow, which means that the lunch is ready, and the guests may assemble in the dining-room to take their places at the seats designated on their cards, f he service begins the same as the dinner and continues likewise until the coffee is served, when the ladies retire to the drawing-room to partake of theirs, to listen to music, or to withdraw unceremoniously. If the lunch should be intended for gentlemen only, suppress all ornamentation except the flowers and fruits; the menu should be more substantial, and if for ladies and gentlemen together, serve the same as for a dinner, observing the same etiquette. MEAT BREAKFAST (Dejeuner k la Fourchette). A meat breakfast is composed of broiled meats, cold meat, fish, eggs, croustades, fried dishes, sweets and dessert. BILL OF FARE. COLD SIDE DISHES. MELON. Radishes, celery, olives, anchovies, caviare, sardines, fresh butter, artichokes poivrade, smoked breasts of goose, canape's of ham, gherkins, shrimps, mortadella, cucumbers, Lyons sausage, mackerel in oil, tomatoes and pickles. Oysters or Little Neck clams. FISH. Broiled mackerel, shad, smelts, perch, trout, herrings. Fried codfish, fillets of flounders, whitebait, frost fish. Baked sheepshead, baas, English soles, redsnapper, kingfish. Boiled salmon, grouper, halibut, skate, cod's tongues. Sauted weakfish, lobsters, mussels, bluefish, whitefish. EGGS. Omelets, scrambled, fried, poached, boiled soft and hard, soft, moulded or on a dish. ENTREES. Broiled pig's feet, sausages, blood sausages, sliced venison. Fried chicken, tendons of lamb, crawfish cutlets. Sauted tripe, chicken, kidneys, tournedos, calf's liver. 14 THE EPICUREAN. 'v Baked sweetbreads, lamb chops in papers, quails, pigeons in cases. Braized calf's head, sheep's trotters, grenadins of veal. Broiled porterhouse steak, sirloin steak, tenderloin of beef, veal, mutton and lamb chops. COLD. Game pie, terrine of goose-livers (foies-gras.) Boned duck, chicken mayonnaise. ROAST. Game or broiled or roast poultry, with green salad. SWEET ENTREMETS AND DESSERT. If so far no eggs have been mentioned in the bill of fare, then fruit or spirituous omelets of all kinds may be served, or else Celestine omelet, snow souffle, etc., but in case eggs have already been used, then diversify the bill of fare by giving fritters, crusts, pancakes, pears, apples, peaches, etc. Have also pies, tarts and cakes as well as cheese and fresh fruit. Coffee and Liquors. THE BREAKFAST TABLE. The breakfast table must be laid simpler, although with as much care and taste as for all other meals; naturally there is less ceremony to be observed for a breakfast, the simplicity of the bill of fare and wines rendering it far easier to serve. The hors-d'ceuvre and fruit may be placed on the table, and when a dressy appearance is desired, flowers or high cold pieces, such as meat pies, chaufroids, aspics, trout or salmon, may also be added. The service for the wines and cooking is exactly the same as for a dinner. SUPPLIES (Approvisionnements). Good cooking is only obtained by having all the ingredients healthy, appetizing and nutri- tious; the stomach must not be fatigued, and yet the eye and the palate have to be somewhat flat- tered. A dish may be more or less simple, more or less difficult, but it must satisfy the taste and to obtain this result a cook should only use the best materials and those of the very freshest. All the supplies should be of the very first choice; the best cook in the world can fail to work properly unless the provisions are of the best. A cook anxious to perform his duty must pay the strictest attention to the selection of the food; this alone constitutes a science based on a deep knowledge and long practice. Beef must have light red, marbled meat, the fat being firm to the touch. Veal meat to be white and firm, also its fat. Mutton has red meat firm and marbled, the fat to be white. Pork must be carefully selected from pigs raised on acorns or corn, having firm, white meat, and firm, white, brittle fat. Chickens to be plump, the breast bone flexible, the ribs easily cracked. Pinch the pinion bones to see whether they are tender; the same of turkeys, other poultry and game. Old fowls can never replace young chickens, therefore use them as little as possible. A fish is to have a clear, fresh eye and must be firm to the touch; mistrust it as soon as the belly flesh becomes soft; the smell will indicate whether it be fresh or stale; the same of crustaceans. Vegetables to be selected of the very freshest. bruits by their appearance and taste. TABLE OF SUPPLIES. FISH AND SHELL FISH. Index for American Fish and when they are in Season. S indicates when in season. > fc. a> -2 h a> ^2 S FISH. POISSONS. * S | _ 0> in 3 S a> ^5 Q 9 a V .Q ^*> c ^* bfi 2 6 V ?2 3 u O B -5 fc & < ^ -5 < 02 O k; Q Angel or moon g g Bass, lake or black. . . . Bass de Lac s g s s s g s " sea " de Mer 15 g g g g g " striped " Bar g ij g o g g g g g g g Black fish or tautoe;. . . Tautog g g g g g g g Bluefish S S S s g s TABLE OF SUPPLIES. 15 FISH AND SHELL FISH. CONTINUED. Index for American fish, and when they are in season. S indicates when in season. FISH. POISSONS IN at a 5 February .a o ft oj Pi fr CD a 3 '-s ~3 to 3 September October I November December Bonito . . Bonite s S s S S S S S S S s 15 Butterfish. S S S s S "s" s s s s 15 S s s 020202020202020202. 02 Carp, common & Buffalo " German Carpe ordinaire 15 s S " miroir S s s s s s s s s S s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s Codfish Morue s s s s s s S S s s s s s s s Eels An^uiHes Flounders or tiukes. . . Frost fish Plie, Limande Tacaud Grouper . . . Haddock . Aiglefin s s s s s s s s s s s s s S s s s s Halibut Fletan Herring Hareng. Kinfish. . Umbrine s s s s 15 s s Lafayette 15 Lamprev Lamproie ... ... s s 15 s s s Mackerel . . . . Maquereau s s s s . s s s s S s s s s s s s s s s ' s " Spanish. . . . Mullet " Espagnol. Mulet 15 S s s s s 15 S s s Muscalonge Masque allonge . . . S s s s 15 ' s" s s S S s s s "s s s Perch Perche s s s s s s s s s Pike perch. " or Pickerel Sand re 1 - - - Brochet ou brocheton. s s 15 s s s s Pompano s Poi'rry. Sar^us Red Snapper s s s s s s s s s s s s s s Salmon, Kennebec ^ and Oregon J " trout ( SaumonduKennebec (et de 1'Oregon s Ken Ken Ken Ken Truite saumonee Shad and roe Alose et oaufs s s 15 15 S Sheepshead. S S S s s s s s 15 S s s s "s" s s s Skate Kaie s s s s s s s s s s s 15 s Smelts Sole, English Eperlans Sole Anglaise 15 Spot fish ... s s s S S s s s s 15 Sturgeon . .... Esturo'eon . s s s s s 15 Trout, brook Truite de ruisseau . s s s s Turbot, American " English . . Turbot Americain .... " Anglais s s s s s s Weak fish 15 s s s S s s s s s 15 S Whitebait Blanchaille s s s s s s s s s Whitefish Lavaret. . .... MISCELLANEOUS SHELL FISH : CRUSTACES ET COQUILLAGES-. Clams, hard Lucines orangees papillons. . Crabes durs . . 02 02 02 02 O2 O2 s s s 020202 s s s s 02020202 s s s s s s 15 s s S s s 02 02 02 soft Crabs, hard s s s s s s s s s s 15 15 " soft " inoux. Crawfish Ecrevisses S S S s s s s s s s s s Lobsters Honiards s s s s s s s s Mussels Moules Oysters Huttres S s s s s s 15 s s s 15 s s s s Scallops. . Petoncles . Shrimps small Crevettes petites s s Codfish tongues. . . Langues de inorue... . s s s s s s s s Crabs, oyster Crabes d'huitres S s s S s s s s Frosrs . Grenouilles s s y s s Best Best Best Best Best s s Milts Laitances s y s s s S s s s s s s Terrapin Terrapene s s s s s s s Tortue verte S s S s s s s s s s s s Chevrettes s s s s s 16 THE EPICUREAN. FISH AND SHELL FISH. CONTINUED. Index for American Fish, and when they are in season. S indicates when in season. fc. 1* t- a> h au 1 SALT FISH. POISSONS SALES a 3 ,3 03 0) ^ s 3 CM >^ 5 >, bfi " o > a <1> a 3 3 Oi u o a> '-5 f* "5 "* ^ ^ *-i *! CO O ^ Q Anchovies Anchois R s s s s s R s S R R R Codfish dried ... Morue seche s s s s s s s s s R R R Herring Harengs s s s s s s s s s R R R " pickled " marines .... s s s s s s s s s R R R Mackerel . . Maquereau s s s s s s s s s R R R Prawns Crevettes s s s s R s R Salmon Saumon s s s s s s R s s R R R SMOKED FISH POISSONS FUMES: Haddock, smoked or Finnan haddie Aiglefin S s s s s s Halibut Fletan s s s s s s Herring Haren" s s s s s s s s s s s s " bloaters s s s s s s s " kippered. . . . s s s s s s s Mackerel Maquereau s s s s s s s Salmon Saumon s s s s s s s s s s s s Shad A I ose s s s s s s s Sturgeon Esturgeon s s s s s s s Whitefish Lavaret s s s s s s s POULTRY. Index for Poultry and when it is in season. S indicates when in season. B indicates when the poultry is at its best. POULTRY. VOLAILLE. January February u fm as " "S p* < s s OS a a ."-s _>> "3 -S SB bC 3 < September October November December Capon Chapon s S s s s s s s Chicken, to broil 1J Ib? Sauter2lbs Roast 3 Ibs Braize 4 Ibs Duck, Mongrel PouletaGriller,li liv's Sauter, 2 " Rotir, 3 " " Braiser, 4 " Canards Metis . ... S S s s s S s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s S S S s s S s s s s S S s s s S S s s s " tame " Domestiques i; B B B s s s s s s s B Duckling Caneton s s s s s s s Fowl Poule. . . s S s s s s s s s s s s Geese Oie s s s s s s s s s s s s " Mongrel " Metisse s s s s s s s s Gosling Oison 15 s s s s s Guinea fowl Pmtade s s s s s s s s s s s s Peacock Paon s s s s s s s s s s s s Pigeon stall-fed Pullet Pigeon " engraisse . . . . Poularde s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s Squab Pigeonneau s s s s s s s s s s s is Turkey Dindon s s s s s s s s s s s s E. R I " ex Ru'dels'nd It B s s s s s s It B B B Young Dindonneau s s $ s s s s s B B B s Suckling pig. . Cochon de lait s s s s s s s s s s s s In case no fresh ones are procurable, frozen poultry can be found every day of the year. TABLE OF SUPPLIES. FRUITS. Index for Fruits and when they are in Season. S indicates when in season. FRUITS. FRUITS. at 3 a at >-s February A o u 03 ^ ' 03 & 05 3 >> "3 "^ en 3 bC 3 <5 September October November December Alligator pears Avocats s S R Apples Pommes S S s s R s s S R R R s Apricots Abricots 15 15 Bananas Bananes S S s s s s s s R R R s Barberries Epines Vinettes R 15 Blackberries .... Mures s 15 Cherries Cerises s s 15 Chestnuts Marrons S s R s Cocoanuts Xoix de Coco S s s s s s s S R R R s Currants, black & red. . Groseilles, cassis s 15 Fies Fiffues . . 15 Ginger Gingembre 15 R R R R s Gooseberries Groseilles vertes ) s Grapes, Brighton dites a maquereau j" Raisins, Brighton.... s R R R R Concord Concord .... 15 R R R 15 Delaware Delaware . . . s R R 15 Hautfonds .... Hautfonds... s s R s R Hot house de serre s s s s s s s R R R 15 Ives Ives s R s s R Jona Jona s R R R R Malaga Malaga S s s R R R s Muscatel Muscatelle. . s R R s R Niagara . . . Niagara. . . . s R R R R Pokington Pokington . . s R R R R Rebecca Rebecca .... 15 R R R 15 Tokay Tokav s R R s R Grape fruit or shaddock S s s s s s R R s Green gages Reine Claude R 15 Huckleberries Airelles 15 s s Lemons Citrons S s s s s s s s R R R R Limes Poncires Mangoes Mangoes s R R Melon, Cantaloup Melon, Cantaloup .... 15 R R 15 " Musk " Maraicher 15 R R 15 " Spanish " Espagnol ..... R " Water " d'eau pasteque. s R R 15 Nectarines Brugnons s R Oranges, Florida Orange? de Floride. . . S s s R R " Mandarins " Mandarines . . S s R " Spanish " d'Espagne. . . S s s s s s s R R R R R Peaches Peches s R R 15 " hot house " de serre s R Pears Poires S s R 15 R R R R R Pineapples Ananas S s s s s s s R R R R R Plums Prunes s R R Persimmons R 15 Pomegranates Grenades s S Quiiifes Coin^s R R R Raspberries Framboises s s R Strawberries Fraises .... s s s s ' ' hot house " de serre s s Tamarinds Tainarins s R R Tangerines s R R Wintergreen s R R R R R i 18 THE EPICUREAN. GAME. Index for Game and when it is in Season. S indicates when in season. GAME. GIBIEB. fr a a & February a 'C p. 1 05 a >-> 13 1-3 18 a fee September October November December Antelope and Venison. 15 S S 15 S "s" q Courlis . S S S S ' Lark S S S ' Rail-chopper, or S ' Reed Mesange Moustache . 727272 727272 727272727272727272 72 72 72 72 GO GO GO GO GO 72 72 72 72727272 727272; 727272G072 72 72 72 GO GO 72 72 72 72 72 72 72 72727272 Rice Oiseaux de Riziere. .. . Petits Oiseaux S s a S S S s Small Buffalo. Buffle Ducks, all kinds Canards de toutes- sortes . -f2 02 O2 72O2 02 : "; O: 72 O2 O2 72 72 72 72 72 72 72 727272 72 72 72727272727272GOG07272 72727272GOGOGC72727272 72 72 72727272727272 C.2&2 7272 72 72 72 72 72 72 72 72 72 72 72 GO 72 Blackhead " a Tete noire. . . . Canvas-back ... Mallard . . . . " Malart Red head " Tete rouge Sarcelle ailes bleues. . " ailes vertes. . . Canards siffleurs . Teal, bluewing. . Teal, green \Vidgeon Wood . . . " des bois Geese Brant Oies Barnacles. . " Wild " sauvages . Grouse or prairie hen.. " Spruce Tetras ou poule ) de prairie f 15 Hare, American " English " Anglais S s 8 S 72 72 GO GO 72 72 72 15 Pheasants s Pigeons Pigeons 8 8 S S s s s s Plovers, Grass " Corn, golden.. " Yellow legs. . Ptarmigans " a pattes jaunes Poules de Neige S S 8 Quails Cailles ,... s S s S s Rabbits Lapins Robins Rouge gorge Law agai nst sell 5 ng Snipe, Curlew Becassines, Courlis. . . 020202020202 72 72 72 72 72 72 s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s s " English Anglaises. du Jersey. " de Sable " Sand Squabs, wild Pigeonneaux sauvages Ecureuil Squirrel s S Dindon sauvage S s S S S Woodcock 15 s S Almost everything, not fresh killed, may be found in good condition frozen, nearly every day in'the year. TABLE OF SUPPLIES. 19 MEATS. Index for Meats and when they are in season. S indicates when in season. B indicates when the meat is at its best. MEATS. VIANDES. a 3 a a February 5 P. | a 3 's i- In 3 be S Septembel October November December Beef Bceuf B B S S S s s B B S s s s s s B 72 72 72 GO GO GO CQ 72 72 72 72 72 GO 03 S S S S S S B B Kid Agneau de lait S S B B B S S B B B Lamb Yearling Agneau Tardif Mouton s s s s B S S S B S S s B S B S S B B B S B B B Pie- Cochon Veal Veau VEGETABLES. Index of Vegetables and when they are in season. M Indicates the month when in season. E Indicates when the vegetable comes from Europe; H when cultivated in hot-house or hot-beds. VEGETABLES. LEGUMES. fc cS 9 a >- February rd O (- CS S T, P. OS v a 3 -5 >> '3 >-5 to 3 be 3 < September October November December Artichokes Articliauts F, F F F F F F F F F F F " Jerusalem ropinambours M M M M M M IVf Asparagus liot-liouse Asperges de serre M 15 " Out-door " en Pleine terre 15 M M M M " Green " ' ' Vertes 15 M M M M Tips " " Pointes 15 M M M M " "White " " Blanches 15 M M M M M M 15 " Lima Haricots, Lima M M M " Striner " Verts M M M M M M M M M M M M " Wax and butter. Vlange tout. . , M M M M M M M M M 15 Beets Betteraves M M M new M M M M M M M M Brussels sprouts Chouxde Bruxelles M M 15 M M Cabbage Green Kale " Verts Kale . M M M M Red ' ' Rouges . M M M M 15 M M M M " Savoy. " de Savoie. M M M M 15 M M M M White " Blancs M new M M M M M M M M M M Cardoons Cardons M M Carrots . . Garottes. . M M M new M M M M M M M M Cauliflower Choux rleurs F, F F H H H M M M M M M Celery knobs Celeriac 'eleri rave M M M M 15 M M M M M " Soup " Vert M M M M M M M M M M M M Corn, green. . . . M M M 15 Cranberries Caneberges M M M M M M M Cucumbers Concombres H H H H H H M M M H H H " Small pickles 15 M 15 Eefff-plant. . Aubergines M M M M M M M M M M M M Garlic, dry Ail, sec M M M M M M new M M M M M Herbs, Basil Herbes Basilic. . . . . M M M Bay leaves, dry. Burnet ... . " Laurier, sec. . . " Pimprenelle. . . . M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M Cbervil " Cerfeuil H H H H H H M M M H H H Chives " Ciboulettes H H H H H H M M M H H H Fennel ' Fenouil M M M Marjoram ' Marjolaine M M M Mint ' Mentbe H H H H H M M M M H H H Parsley ' Persil M M M M M M M M M M M M Rosemary M M M Savorv ' Sarriette M M M Tarragon H H H H H M M M M H H H Thyme ' TbTm M M M Hops Houblons 15 15 Kohl rabi M M M M M 20 THE EPICUREAN. VEGETABLES. CONTINUED. Index of Vegetables and when they are in season. M Indicates the Month they are in season. E Indicates when the vegetable comes from Europe; H Indicates when the vegetable is culti- vated in hot-houses or hot-beds; S Indicates when the vegetable comes from the South; L Indicates when the vegetable comes from Long Island. VEGETABLES. LEGUMES. b 3 a OJ >- February 1 el & S. < >> % o c 3 1-5 j>> "5 1-5 In 3 be <5 September October November >-, 9 ^ S tl o 6 Q M M "s" M Leeks Poireaux M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M 15 15 M M Mushrooms, cultivated Field .... " Girolles .. " Morils. . . Okra or Gumbo Champignons cultives " de Prairie " Girolles. . " Morilles.. Gombaut S M 15 M M M S M M M M M S s M M 15 M 15 S M M M M M S S M M M M S M M M M M 8 S S M M M S M M M M M S S M M 8 M M M M M M Onions Oignons. " Bermuda " de Bermude. . " Petits " Small M M M M L M 15 M M M L M M M M M L M M M M M M M M Oyster- plant Salsifis Parsnips Peas (South) Panais Pois S M M M L M L Peppers Poivrons S M 15 M M 8 M Potatoes Pommes de terre " Bermuda. . . . " Havana " Bermude " Havane " Sweet Patates M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M 15 M M M M M Pumpkins Potirons Radishes, black M M M 15 M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M " Horse Raifort M M M M M M Red Radis rou^'e " White or gray Rhubarb " Blanc ou giis. . . Rhubarbe M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M Salad, Monk's beard. . Celery Salade barbedeCapucin " de Oeleri M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M' M H M M M M M M M M M M M Chicory " de Chicoree. . . . " de Maches M Corn Dandelion " de Pissenlit.. ) " Dent-de-liou.. ) " Escarolle M M Escarolle M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M M 15 M M M M M M M M M M M H M Lettuce " de Laitue. . . M M M M M H M M M M M M M M M M new M M M Romaine " de Romaine. . . . Watercress " Cresson M M H M M M H M M M H M M M H M Shallots Echalotes Oseille Spinach Squash, summer, white " " yellow " Winter,Hubbard " Marrow. Tomatoes Epinard Courge blanche \ *,, , " Jaune \ * jte> " HubbardHiver " Moelle " Tomates M M H M M M H M M M S M 15 15 S M M M H M M M M M H M M M 8 8 M S M M M Turnips, Rutabaga . . . Teltow Navets Rutabaga Teltow White... " Blancs. . M M M M IVf new new new new TABLE OF SUPPLIES. MODEL MARKET LIST. Reed On hand Neec Reed On hand Need BEEF. Chuck pcs. PORK AND PROVISIONS. Bacon pcs Corned Navel Ibs. Bologna Ibs Plate " Feet, Pigs pcs Ham, Corned " Fillets pcs. " Fresh " '' Smoked " " Westphalia " Lamb Tongues " Lard Ibs Loin, Flat Bone " Larding Pork " " Hip " ' ' Short " Pork Tongues " Salt Pork, Breast Ibs Sausages " Ribs " " Frankfort " Round Ibs. ' ' Meat " Rump " Tails pcs. Smoked Beef Ibs Tongues, Fresh " Smoked Beef Tongue? pcs Butt Tenderloin Ibs LAMB (SPUING). Tripe " VEGETABLES. Artichokes pcs Racks Short Cut " " Twelve Ribs " Saddles Fore " " Jerusalem peck. Asparagus. . bunch .... Hind " Tips " LAMB (YEARLING). " String " Beets " Brussels Sprouts " Feet " i Carrots bbl Fries " Carrots, New " Cabbage doz Cauliflowers " Twelve Ribs ' Celery Knobs or Celeriac. . . . bunch. " Soup " Hind ' Corn, Green pcs Cranberries bushel. Cucumbers doz. Egg Plant " Garlic " MUTTON. Brains ... . pcs Herbs, Dry bunch Chervil Chives Broast ... " Mint Feet " Parsley Kidneys . ... ' Tarragon Leers . ' Kohl-rabi Racks Short Cut ' Leeks Twelve Ribs ' Melon, Musk pcs. Saddles Fore ' Mushrooms, Cultivated Ibs. Hind " Field " Okra pcs. Onions bbl. VEAL. Brains . . . . pcs " Small '. peck. Oyster Plants doz Parsnips peck. Breast Ibs Peas bushel Feet . . . pcs Peppers pcs. Potatoes bbl. " New " Hind Quarter ' 46 THE JANUARY LUNCH. 129 Oysters a la Bearnaise tomatoed (1052) Escalops of fat livers with risot, Perigueux sauce (2281) Eggs cocottes (2873) Broiled quails (2128) Eudive salad (2671) Meringue flawn (3174) Dessert * 131 Baked scallops on toast (1078) Loin pork pie, English style (2378) Broiled ruddy duck (2067) Celery salad (2660) Glazed apple marmalade (3125) Roasted chestnuts Dessert ISO Scallops Brestoise (1074) Surtout of chicken livers with mushrooms (2367) Green peas, French style (2743) Broiled woodcock (2204) Water-cress and apple salad (2676) Mocha cake (3249) Apples Dessert 132 Baked oysters a la Crane (1057) Small patties with gravy (2318) Minced partridge (2090) Potato croquettes in surprise (2782) Broiled grouse (2071) Babas with rum (3288) Malaga grapes 133 Oysters a la Boucicault (1053) Veal palates, Epicurean style (1540) Roasted stuffed squabs (2018) Lettuce salad (2672) Banana crusts a la Panama (3023) Grape fruit Dessert 135 Scallops Havraise (1075) Skewers of chicken livers, Colbert sauce (2222) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Broiled partridges, English style (2085) Lettuce salad (2672) Chateau framboise" (3141) Pears 134r Scallops Mariniere (1076) Crepinettes of chicken, Turenne Broiled canvasback (2054) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Fruit flawn (3172) Florida oranges Dessert 136 Curried oysters, Indian style Shells of chicken (2345) Julienne potatoes (2792) Broiled teal duck (2067) Endive salad (2671) Pineapple Dessert BILLS OF FARE. 47 FEBRUARY 137 Oyster rissolettes, Pompadour (956) Beefsteak. Bordelaise with marrow and truffles (1372) Roast reedbirds with cresses (2152) Cauliflower salad mayonnaise (2649) Venetian lemon custard pie (3202) Chestnut Plombiere (3486) Grape fruit Dessert -LUNCH. 138 Border of risot of lobsters (2213) Minion fillets of spring lamb a la Benoist (1720) Brussels sprouts sauted (2704) Broiled ptarmigans (2071) Cucumber salad (2661) Rice souffle with maraschino (3121) Roasted chestnuts Dessert 139 Lobster a la Bonnefoy (1026) Minced beef a la Beekman (1396) Baked cauliflower with cheese (2717) Roast squabs (2018) Lettuce salad (2672) Printanier boats (cakes) (3291) Apples Dessert 14O Fried soft clams (998) Lamb cutlets with string beans (1693) Marrow squash with Parmesan (2824) Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) Endive salad (2671) Small savarin cakes (3324) Roman bomb (3442) Bananas 141 Anchovy canapes (777) Lobster, Paul Bert (1038) Pork chops with apple croquettes (1779) Potato and beetroot salad (2652) Broiled teal ducks (2067) Jealousy cakes (3311) Malaga grapes Dessert 14:2 Crusts of fat livers (905) Cromesquis of beef tongue (872) Baked noodles (2971) Broiled ptarmigan (2071) Chicory salad (2668) Meringued omelet with fruits (3069) Florida oranges Dessert * 143 Oysters (803) Cromesquis of striped bass (870) Broiled breaded lamb cutlets with gravy (1690) Green peas, French style (2743) Broiled redhead ducks (2063) Tomato salad (2666) Custard in a dish (3159) Pineapple Dessert 144 Oysters (803) Scallops breaded with milk and fried (1077 Veal cutlets with fine herbs (1504) Roast tame duck (1921) Water -cress salad (2676) Floating Islands (eggs) (3163) Syruped baba (3227) Pomegranates Dessert 48 THE EPICUREAN. MAECH LUNCH. 145 Scallops breaded with eggs and fried (1077) Veal pie a la Dickens (2380) Artichoke bottoms, Villars (2682) Broiled duckling (1938) Chicory salad (2668) Rice souffle" with maraschino (3121) Pineapple * 146 Small lobster, Bordelaise (1025) Fricassee of turkey wings baked (2038) Tomatoes a la Boquillon (2833) Broiled reedbirds (2151) Endive salad (2668) Meringued apples, Nubian (2996) Malaga grapes 147 Stuffed oysters, Mornay (1069) Terrapin, ancient style (1087) Artichokes, Rachel (2690) Broiled chicken with tarragon sauce (1831) Small orange souffles in cases (3120) Milk punch iced (3511) Bananas 148 Lobster with cream (1044) Squabs roasted in the saucepan (2018) Eggplant a la Robertson (2737) Small aspics of foies gras (2412) Apple flawn, latticed (3169) Strawberries Dessert 149 Consomme in cups (189) Stuffed small lobster tails (1043) Terrapin, Newberg (1086) Small " pains" of chicken a 1'Ecarlate (2543) Meringued omelet with fruits (3069) Grape fruit Dessert 15O Oysters with Parmesan (1073) Pork cutlets with apples (1777) Mushrooms sauted with butter (2760) Roast English pheasants adorned with their own plumage (2107) Eggs with coffee cream meringued (3033) Florida oranges Dessert 151 Oysters a la Rubino (1055) Chicken croquettes, Exquisite (877) Asparagus, vinaigrette (2692) Roast thrushes (2166) Lettuce salad (2672) Custard in a dish (3159) 152 Lobster a la Hervey (1034) Terrapin a la Crisfleld (1084) Italian salad (2635) Crepinettes of pigeons, poivrade sauce with truffle essence (No. 2246) Madeira crusts (3026) Bavarois with meringues (3133) Pears BILLS OF 49 153 Caviare (778) boallops a la Brestoise (1074) Grenadins of beef with sweet peppers (1394) Noodles with fried bread-crumbs (2973) Broiled squabs, Colbert sauce (2013) Stuffed eggs (sweet) (3031) Grape fruit Dessert APRIL LUNCH. 154r Oysters on the deep shell (803) Lobster a la Rougemont (1041) Vienna Schnitzel, German style (1512) Green peas with braised lettuces (2746) Timbales of chicken, Parisian style (2382) Souffle's in cases with vanilla (3120) Oranges Dessert 155 Crusts a la Genoise (904) Deviled lobster (1043) Lamb steak, maitre-d'hotel (1713) Baked tomatoes (2837) Chaudfroid of larks (2454) Floating island (3163) Hot-house grapes 156 Radishes (808) Fresh butter (775) Croustades of lamb's sweetbreads (2251) Broiled teal duck (2067) Potatoes in surprise (2809) Cake stuffed with apricots (3325) Cream cakes iced with vanilla (3294) Bananas 157 Oysters on crusts (1062) Escalops of beef palates, chestnut pure"e (2277) Croustades of chicken livers with Madeira (2250) Tomatoes a la Tr6vise (2836) Squabs Crapaudine (2007) Cream pie (3201) Apples * 159 Pickled oysters (802) Lobster tails a la Stanley (1042) King's pilau of lamb (1709) Fried frog's legs, cream sauce (1022) Hot pie, Bontoux style (2314) Genoese cake (3307) Strawberries 158 Julienne soup, Faubonne (318) Quenelles of turkey, Providence (2336) Minion fillets of lamb, Landgrave (1721) Artichoke bottoms, Florence (2677) Larks a la Mardchale (2081) Meringued pancakes, Rossini (3073) Pineapple _ * 160 Oysters and lemons (803) Cream of peas a la St. Germain (260) Breast of lamb, chopped sauce (1663) Cromesquis of beef tongue (872) Boudinsof chicken. Soubise (2215) Baked apples (2992) Graoe fruit 50 THE EPICUREAN. 161 Clam pancakes or fritters (996) Small patties, Mazarin (944) Epigrammes of lamb a la Toulouse (1694) Broiled squabs (2013) Lettuce salad (2672) Surprise of fruits, frothy sauce (3219) Apples MAY LUNCH. 162 Colombines of chicken liver with ham (865) Deviled frog's legs (1020) Patties a 1'Andalouse (934) Slices of lamb, Previllot (1711) Broiled ptarmigans (2071) Chicory salad (2668) Almondine tartlets (3326) Hot-house grapes 163 Quenelles of fish, Montglas (2330) Sweetbread croquettes (893) Roast tame duck (1921) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Cream macaroons in cases (3383) Spanish oranges Boudins of pickerel a la "Walton (844) Benoiton shells (2339) Sweetbreads in papers (1573) Broiled chicken with tarragon sauce (1831) Water-cress and apple salad (2676) Apricots with cream of almonds (3287) Bananas 165 Lobster, Monte Carlo (1036) Palmettes of ham a 1'Aquitaine (927) Chaudfroid of chicken, Clara Morris (2451) Ptarmigans (2071) Lettuce salad (2672) Crescents with preserves (3298) Hot-house peaches 166 Brissotins of chicken, supreme sauce (849) Sweetbreads on skewers (2226) Parisian green peas (2745) Roast duck (1921) Endive salad (2671) Apple croquettes, Trimalcion (3016) Pineapple 167 Crusts a la d'Henin (904) Celestines with foies-gras and pure*e of chest- nuts (862) Squab cutlets, Perigueux (2267) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Minions of tenderloin of beef, Stanley (1406) Mellow potatoes (2799") Lady bouchees with strawberries (3376) 168 Lobster a la Fresne (1032) Junot palmettes (921) Minion fillets of lamb in surprise (1725) String beans a la Pettit (2827) Strawberry short cake (3262) Biscuits in cases with cream (3289) Pears BILLS OF FARE:. 51 169 Lobster a la Delmonico (1037) Timbales Mentana (974) Mutton cutlets with chicory (1602) Artichoke bottoms, Montglas (2679) Croquettes of capon a la Royal (876) Coffee cream eclairs (3303) Cherries JUNE LUNCH. 17O Lobster, Paul Bert (1038) Varsovian palmettes (924) Breast of beef a la Florence (1314) Stuffed tomatoes baked (2837) Asparagus, Hollandaise sauce (2692) Bordelalse tartlets (3328) Hot-house grapes 171 Clam chowder (300) Shells of calf's brains (2355) Noisettes of tenderloin of beef, Berthier (1411) Broiled duckling (1938) Macedoine salad (2650) Strawberries and cream Peaches 172 Soft shell crabs, sauted in butter (1006) Lamb cutlets a la Durand (1674) Tomatoes a la Boquillon (2833) Italian salad (2635) Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) Rice border with bananas (3005) Grape fruit 173 Frog's legs fried with cream sauce (1022) Small puff paste salmon patties (945) Minion fillets of lamb, Lefort (1722) Roast squabs (2018) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Goronflot cakes (3310) Bananas 174, Cromesquis of mussels (873) Soft crabs, sauted (1006) Tournedos of beef a la Hutching (1433) Chicken roasted in the saucepan (1881) Lettuce salad (2672) Strawberry ice cream (3451) Pineapple 175 Bressoles of fat livers (848) Shells of squabs, baked (2356) Broiled partridges, English style (2085) Tomatoes stuffed with fresh mushrooms (2842) Aspics of foies gras (2411) Strawberry short cake (3262) Raspberries 176 Clams, Philadelphia style (994) Cassolettes, Lusigny (860) Small" pains" of chicken arEcarlate(2543) Ducklings, Rouennaise (1937) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Meringued croustacles of Venice (3020) Strawberries THE EPICUREAN. Squab cutlets, Perigueux (2267) Potato cakes (2778) Lamb minion fillet pie a la Manning (2373) Small vanilla souffles in cases (3130) Cream cheese (3698) JULY LUNCH. 178 j. Pickled alligator pears (771) Soft clams on skewers (999) Noisettes of plain tenderloin of beef (1410] String beans, a la Pettit (2827) Roasted reedbirds (2152) Cream cakes iced with chocolate (3294) Apricots 179 Little Neck clams a la poulette (995) Sweetbread patties, French style (940) Grenadins of beef as venison (1388) Frog's lefts fried a la Horly (1021) Savarin with apricots (3117) Marly cake (3246) Blackberries 180 Frog's legs a la Osborn (1018) Soft shell crabs sauted in butter (1006) Chicken cutlets a la Clarence (2258) Corn cut up (2731) Potted tenderloin of beef a la Nelson (2320) Turkish coffee (3702) Cherries 181 Lobster tart a la Herault (2374) Cases of squabs, Umberto (2234) Boiled corn on the cob (2730) Small roasted spring chickens as an entree (1908) Lettuce salad (2672) Surprise of fruits (3219) Gooseberries 182 Croustades of gnocquis, Rivoli (899) Border of risot of lobster (2213) Pigeon tart a la Britannia (2377) Broiled duckling (1938) Celery salad (2660) Iced banana pudding (3487) Currants 183 Stuffed clams (997) Frog's legs a la d'Antin (1017) Sweetbreads larded and glazed with gravy (1575) Surtout of wild pigeons (2368) Timbale a la Nantaise (2381) Molded snow eggs (3164) Bananas 184r Olives stuffed with anchovies (801) Lobster brochettes (2224) Cases of sweetbreads, Grammont (2235) Broiled chickens with tarragon sauce (1831) Small Quillet cakes (3397) Musk melon Cheese BILLS OF FARE:. 53 185 Lobster, American style (1024) Pigeons braised with green peas (1969) Timbales of sweetbreads, modern (2388) Cream cakes iced with coffee (3294) Raspberry water-ice (3607) Peaches. AUGUST LUNCH. 186 Kulibiac, Russian style (908) Lobster a la Lawrence (1035) Beef pie a la Perez (2369) Shells of mussels (2349) Raspberry souffle (3122) Cheese * 188 Lobster a la Canaille (1028) Escalops of veal a la Arnold (2285) Smothered string beans (2828) Timbale for epicures (2383) Peach marmalade pancakes macedoine (3075) Pears 187 Frog's legs a la poulette with mushrooms (1019) Pilau of chicken (1878) Lobster a la Gambetta (1033) Tournedos of fillet of beef, Bretigny (1431) Savarin a la Valence (3259) Cheese 189 " Pain " of pike (2307) Lobster, mayonnaise (2534) Squabs, Stanislas (2011; Green peas, English style (2742) Noisettes of shoulder of lamb, Epicurean (1730) Parfait with nougat and with almonds (3478) Plums 19O Cromesquis of beef palate (867) Fried sweatbreads, Neapolitan style (1562) Shells of frog's legs (2347) Japanese salad (2636) Cannelons a la Celestine (3292) Cheese 191 Oysters with fine herbs (1072) Lobster a la Britannia (1027) Fried chicken, Medicis (1870) Small vol-au-vent, Delmontes (2403) Cream cakes with St. Honore cream (3296) Apricots 192 Shells filled with crawfish tails (2341) Beef palate tourte, Parisian style (2390) Squabs sauted a I'lmpromptu (2010) Sarah potatoes (2802) Sweetbread fritters, cream sauce (1572) Water melon on ice Raspberries. 54 THE EPICUREAN. 193 Alligator pears (771) SEPTEMBER LUNCH. 194r Boudins of game, Berchoux (2218) Oysters a la Rubino (1055) Epigrammes of mutton a la Jardiniere (1607) Timbale of pullet (2386) Iced souffles, Favart (3534) Oysters in cases a la Hilton (2231) Patties with Regence salpicon (943) Sirloin steak for gourmets (1378) Squabs roasted in earthenware saucepan (2018) Fiori di latte a la Bellini (3467) Apples 195 Shrimp patties (935) Tournedos of tenderloin of beef a la Roque- plan (1436) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Broiled partridges, Colbert sauce (2099) Francillon cakes (3305) Oheese 196 Oysters with fine herbs (1072) Cromesquis of sweetbreads, Babanine (872) Broiled eggplant, Duperret (2735) Breasts of grouse a la Czarina (207?) Marillan cakes (3317) Bananas 197 Cromesquis of game, Stanislas (871) Shells of shrimps with oyster crabs (2342) Chateaubriand, with souffled potatoes (1883) Iced pudding, Constance (3490) Cocoanut 198 Fried soft clams with parsley (998) Blanquette of pullet with mushrooms (1997) Slices of kernel of venison a la Hussard (2181) Small aspics of foies-gras (2412) De"monet tartlets (3331) Cheese 199 Consomme" (189) Lobster a la Dugle"re" (1031) Timbale of squabs a la Berchoux (2387) Lamb cutlets, Murillo (1681) Cream with apples (3014) Cheese. 20O Strained okra soup (299) Baked oysters a la Crane (1057) Cromesquis of beef tongue (872) Chickens Ecarlateala Derenne (2463} Apples, Baron de Brisse style (2993) Concord grapes BILLS OF FARE. 55 201 Crawfish tails in shells (2341) OCTOBER LUNCH. 2O2 Stuffed oysters, Mornay (1069) Chicken fricassee (1861) Venison cutlets, tomato Parisian sauce (2174) Tomatoes stuffed with fresh mushrooms (2842) Conde peaches (3081) Watermelon * 203 Shells of oysters in their natural shells (2351) Mutton cutlets with marinade (1604) String bean salad (2657) Chicken pie, Australian style (2372) Alliance fritters (3036) Barberries Crusts of woodcock (906) Artichoke bottoms a la Florence (2677) Cream of lobster (2470) Jelly cake meringued (3243) Cheese 204, Oysters in cases a la Lorenzo (2232) Venison cutlets with chestnut puree (2175) Souffle of chicken a la Delsart (2360) Broiled teal duck (2067) Frascati biscuits (3004) Muskmelon * 205 Brissotins of game, Lyonnese (850) Lobster a la Ravigote (2531) Green peas, English style (2742) Noisettes of tenderloin of beef with pure'e of mushrooms (1420) Peach ice cream a la Herbster (3453) Huckleberries 206 Shells of oysters with fried bread (2353) Salmis of partridge cold (2574) Croustade a la Perigueux (897) Italian salad (2635) Roasted woodcocks (2206) Scuffled omelet with vanilla (3066) Cheese 207 Fried soft clams (998) Patties with puree of game (936) Shells of terrapin with hazel-nuts (2358) Broiled snipe (2157) Frothy puree of apples (3127) Spanish oranges 208 Shells of oysters baked in their shells (2350) Epigrammes of lamb, ancient style (1695) Timbales of pullet (2386) Plain Delmonico sii'loin steak (1375) Lamb's lettuce salad (2669) Preserved quinces (3685) 56 THE EPICUREAN. 209 Steamed oysters (1064) Lobster & la Creole (1029) Rib steak a la Bercy (1364) Galantine of pheasant, sliced (2495) Roast chicken garnished with water-cresses (1881). Rice border with bananas (3005) Dessert NOVEMBER LUNCH. 21O Venison cutlets a la Cauchoise (2171) Croustades of reedbirds (2252) Terrapin, Maryland Club (1088) Redhead duck roasted (2063) Lettuce salad (2672) Nesselrode pudding with candied chest- nuts (3495) Dessert 211 Oysters in shells roasted (2352) Croustades a la Perigueux (897) Rabbit pie with fine herbs (2379) Roasted teal ducks (2068) Peaches a la Stevens (3084) Dessert 213 Scallops, Horly (1077) Croustades a la Morgan (902) Veal cutlets, half glaze (1499) Celery knob salad (2660) Roasted ruddy ducks (2066) Genoese Madeleines (3314) Roast chestnuts 212 Oyster brochettes (2225) Cromesquis of capon (868) Breast of veal a la Mondoux (1488) Young rabbit fillets, currant sauce (2145) Terrapin a la Philadelphia (1085) Cream of almond rissoles (3116) Bananas Shells of scallops, Parisian style (2354) Crepine of young rabbit (2249) Sweetbreads larded and glazed with gravy (1575) Quenelles of turkey a la Providenee (2336) Roasted wookcock (2206) Cream cakes with burnt almonds (3295) Pomegranates 215 White cabbage, English style (776) Cromesquis a la Rumford (869) Shells of terrapin with hazel-nuts (2358) Small vol-au-vent of reedbirds, Diplomate (2407) Broiled young wild rabbit backs (2149) Tutti-frutti ice cream (3586) Stewed quinces 216 Marinated Gurnet (831) Patties a la Reine (938) Small sirloin a la Bearnaise (1369) Frog's legs a la Royer (1023) Broiled teal duck (2067) Guanabana water-ice (3603) Cheese BILLS OF FARE. 217 Curried oysters, Indian style (1071) Lobster cutlets a la Shelley (2261) Baked macaroni (2959) Cold quail pie (2565) Asparagus salad (2621) Croquettes a la Trimalcion (3016) Cocoanut DECEMBER LUNCH. 218 " Pain " of crawfish, Chartreuse (2305) Terrapin a la Crisfield (1084) Timbale of young hare (2389) Tenderloin of beef with olives (1428) Chestnut and vanilla souffle (3118) Cheese * 22O Stuffed hard shell crabs (1004) Terrapin cutlets with cream sauce (1089) Turkey legs with Milanese noodles (2036) Broiled quails (2128) Cakes filled with apricot marmalade (3325) Bananas 219 Oyster crab patties (935) Minion fillets of lamb as venison (1723) Lobster with mayonnaise (2534) Loin of pork pie, English style (2378) Jelly rolled biscuit (3312) Cheese 221 Small vol-au-vent a la Lucini (2404) Veal cutlets a la Georgina (1496) Terrapin stew with Madeira wine (1090) Apple Charlotte (3008) Crumbled paste cakes (3345) Apples Turban of lobsters garnished with shells of lobster (2394) Marinated pork tenderloin (1815) Vol-au-vent, Parisian style (2406) Terrapin, Maryland Club (1088) Lady's bouchees with strawberries (3376) Cheese Fresh mushroom patties (937) Cases of lobster, Ravigote (2447) Baked stuffed egg-plant (2738) Gibelotte of rabbits (2147) Cannelons a la Celestine (3292) Grape fruit Kulibiac Smolenska (909) Lobster cutlets a la Lowery (2476) Chicken pie a la Manhattan (2370) Sweetbreads a la Montebello (1560) Africans fancy cakes (3364) Pomegranates THE EPICUREAN. 225 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Meissonier (324) Remove Sheepshead a la Bechamel (1257) Dauphiue potatoes (2783) Entrees Rack of pork, crown shape, with small onions (1798) Stuffed mushrooms in cases with Madeira (2762) Pullet a la Dame Blanche (1972) Green peas with braised lettuces (2746) Roast. Woodcock (2206) Chicory salad (2668) Hot Entremets Brioche and cream fritters with sabayon (3040) Bananas in surprise (3541) Small fancy cakes (3364) Nuts and raisins (3699) Dessert 226 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS: MENU. Soup Mutton a la Cowley (329ji Remove Fresh codfish a la Duxelle baked (1136) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrees Corned breast of beef, English style (1315) Sweet potato croquettes (2831) Chicken fricassee a la Waleski (1866) Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) Roast Mallard duck (2059) Cos-lettuce salad (2675) Hot Entremets Flawn au lion d'or (3035) Plombiere a la Rochambeau ice cream (3482) Small fancy cakes (3364) 227 JANUARY. DINNER 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consomme Channel (224) Side Dish Rissoles of partridges a la Waddington (955) Fish Chicken halibut baked with parmesan (1172) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Braised middle short loin a la Messinoise (1347) Cardoons with half-glaze (2710) Entrees Fillets of chicken a la Bodisco (1835) Green peas Parisian (2745) Salmis of canvasback ducks (2056) Fried eggplant (2739) Beatrice Punch (3502) Roast Quail (2131) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Countess pudding (3097) Palmyra souffle ice cream (3535) Bonbons (3642) Mottoes (3653) Black coffee (3701) Raw oysters or clams (803) may JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consomme Celestine (223) Side Dish Palmettes of pheasant a la Torrens (929) Fish Red snapper a la Mobile (1235) Broiled potatoes with fried bread (2776) Remove Aitch bone boiled, cream horseradish sauce (1317) Villeroi celeriac (2722) Entrees Chicken a F Hoteliere (1880) Fried stuffed lettuce (2752) Breasts of woodcock a la Diane (2200) Tomatoes a la Boquillon (2833) American sherbet (3521) Roast Pheasant (2107) Endive salad (2671) Hot Entremets Stuffed pears a la Lombarde (3086) Plombiere a la Richmond ice cream (3481) Small fancy cakes (3364) * Dessert be added to these bills of tare. BIJL.LS OF FARE. 59 229 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bennett (287) Remove Smelts, Diplomatic (1268) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Entrees Braised chicken with rice (1914) Noisettes of beef a la Berthier (1411) Brussels sprouts a la Baroness (2703) Roast Woodcock (2206) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Pineapple crusts, apricot sauce (3022) Iced biscuits a la d'Orleans (3437) Small cakes (3364) Stewed fruits (3686) Dessert * 231 JANUARY DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consomme a la Remusat (240) Side Dish Chicken croquettes, Hungarian (878) Fish Soles a la Lutece (1272) Mellow potatoes (2799) Remove Ham braised with stuffed tomatoes (1790) Entrees Slices of mutton fillet a la Alexandra (1608) Cauliflower a la Villeroi (2716) Quails with mushrooms (2134) Green peas, Parisian style (2745) Californian sherbet (3523) 230 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Chicken okra (299) Remove Fresh codfish slices with Hollandaise sauce (1140) Boiled potatoes. English style (2774) Entrees Sheep's tongue ecarlate with spinach (1657) Sauted chicken a la Tunisienne (1901) Fried oyster plant (2817) Roast Ruddy duck (2066) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Apples, Baron de Brisse style (2993) Orange water-ice (3605) Small fancy cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) Cognac Dessert Roast Capon (1826) Salad Hot Entremets Alliance fritters (3036) Favart souffle ice cream (3534) Small fancy cakes (3364) Nuts and raisins (3699) Stewed bananas (3687) Dessert Raw oysters or clams (803) may 232 JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of crabs a la Stevens (199) Side Dish Timbales Chevaliere (963) Fish English turbot with caper sauce (1307) Potato croquettes in surprise (2782) Remove Saddle of mutton roasted on the spit (1648) Entrees Chicken, Vienna style sauted (1905) String beans with butter (2829) Partridges a la Chartreuse (2094) Gnocquis (2955) Kirsch punch (3510) Roast Mallard duck (2059) Salad Hot Entremets Creamy souffle with cheese (2982) Spongade a la Medicis (3536) Small cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) Liquors be added to these bills of fare. 60 TT1E EPICUREAN. 233 JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Fermiere style (307) Remove Hot eel pie (2315) Green peas, English style (2742) Entries Breasts of chicken a la Lucullus (1846) Artichoke (bottoms) with marrow (2687) Pilau of mutton, French style (1641) Chicory with cream (2729) Roast Grouse with apple sauce (2072) , Escarole salad (2671) Hot Entremets Singapoi-e pineapple fritters (3046) Ice ci'eam with walnuts (3464) Fancy cakes (3364) Salted almonds (3696) Dessert * 235 JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Sotip Consomme a la Dubarry (229) Side Dish Pheasant croquettes (891) Fish Sheepshead a la Buena Vista (1259) Potato cakes (2778) Remove Goose stuffed with sausages and chestnuts (1950) Entrees Veal cutlets, Milanese (1502) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Woodcocks a la Cavour (2198) Artichoke (bottoms) Jusienne (2678) Pargny punch (3514) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Salad Hot Entremets Creole fruits (3051) Coffee mousse ice ci-eam (3473) Stewed fruits (3686) Dessert Raw oysters or clams may JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Jerome with sweet potato quenelles (317) Remove Baked stuffed perch (1210) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrees Sweetbreads a 1'Eugenie (1556) String beans a TAlbani (2825) Woodcock pudding (2325) Ballotines of stuffed cabbage (2705) Roast Chicken (1881) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Apples in surprise (2995) Maraschino ice cream (3462) Small cakes (3364) Fruits (3699) Dessert 236 JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Puree of carrots a la Crecy (268) Side Dish Neapolitan timbales (977) Fish Fresh codfish a la Norwegian (1137) Persillade potatoes (2774) Remove Tenderloin of beef a la d'Aurelles (1449) Entrees Breasts of chicken a la Mirabeau (1849) Stuffed cauliflower a la Bechamel (2715) Sweetbreads a la Conti (1554) Green peas, English style (2742) Californian sherbet (3523) Roast Canvasback ducks with samp (2055) Salad Hot Entremets Franklyn pudding (3098) Ice cream mousse with maraschino (3476) Nuts and raisins (3699) 4* Dessert be added to these bills of fare. BIJLLS OF FARE,. 61 237 JANUARY. DINNER 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Garbure with lettuce (310) Remove Spotted fish, Queen sauce (1285) Potato fritters (2788) Entrees Tenderloin steak with Madeira (1425) Stuffed tomatoes, Provengal (2835) California quails a la Monterey (2136) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast Wild turkey, American style (2028) Hot Entremets Apples with butter (2999) Chocolate ice cream (3449) Small fancy cakes (3364) Stewed fruits (3686) Dessert JANUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consomme a la Grammont (234) Remove Whitefish, Gherardi (1811) Potato tartlets (2810) Entrees Minions of beef tenderloin a la Salvini (1405) Spinach a la Rougemont (2822) Sweetbread cutlets, modern style (2271) Macedoine a la Montigny (2755) Roast Pullet with water-cress (1996) Hot Entremets Pineapple Carolina (3090) Lemon water-ice (3604) Small cakes (3364) Fruits (3699) Coffee (3701) 239 JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS MENU. /Soup Chamberlain (295) Side Dish Godiveau and chives, puff paste patties (944) FisJi Sole, Venetian style (1278) Mellow potatoes (2799) Remove Sirloin of beef a la Dauphiness (1350) Entrees Breasts of partridges a la Jules Verne (2087) Artichoke (bottoms) with cream bechamel (2686) Sweetbreads larded and glazed with gravv (1575) French green peas (2743) Brandy punch (3510) Roast Capon (1826) Hot Entremets Pudding a la de Freese (3099) Excelsior biscuit ice cream (3436) Fruits (3699) Dessert flaw oysters or clams may 24rO JANUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consomme a la Daumont (228) Side Dish Cannelons of puree of game (859) Fish Haddock, Holland style (1165) Boiled potatoes (2774) Remove Mongrel goose a la Royer (1946) Entrees Mutton cutlets with cucumbers (1603) Stuffed tomatoes with mushrooms (2842) "Woodcock salmis a la Sandford (2208) String beans a 1'Albani (2825) Punch Dolgorouski (3506) Roast Teal ducks (2068) Hot Entremets Peach fritters with maraschino (3039) Spongade ice cream a la Parepa (3537) Stewed fruits (3686) Dessert be added to these bills of fare. 62 THE EPICUREAN. JANVIER. 24:1 DINER, 14 COUVERTS A L'AMERICAINE. MENU. ffaut Sauterne Huitres (803) Sherry POTAGES. Consomme" a la Laguipierre (236) Creme do Celeri a la Livingstone (252) HORS-D'(EUVRE CHAUDS. Bouchees de salpicon de foies-gras (943) Marcobrunner POISSONS. Sheepshead a la sauce Cardinal (1261) Blanchaille frite a la diable (1310) Pommery Sec RELEVE. Filet de bceuf a la Bernardi (1444) Pontet-Canet ENTREES. Ailes de poulet a la Marceau (1847) Petits pates de cailles (2311) Petits pois a 1'Anglaise (2742) Fonds d'artichauts a la Mornay (2680) Souffle de becasses aux truffes (2366) Sorbet Andalouse (3322) Corton ROTS. Canard a tete rouge (2063) Salade d'escarole (2671) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Munich aux peches (chaud) (3055) Gelee aux ananas Californienne (3178) Creme bain-marie au cafe (3162) Glace Parfait nougat (3478) Old Port Dessert JANVIER. 24=2 DINER, 60 COUVERTS SERVICE A L'ANGLAISE. MENU. Huitres (803) POTAGES. Consomme a Tlmperatrice (231) Tortue verte au clair (353) HORS-D'CEUVRE FROIDS. Salade d'anchois (772) Olives Espagnoles farcies (801) Sardines a l'huile(831) Thon marine (831) POISSONS. Darne de saumon a la Duperre (1240) Pompano a la Soya (1226) RELEVES. Chapon a la Re"gence (1825) Selle d'agneau braisee a la puree de navets (1745^ ENTREES. Cotelettes de veau Pogarski (2273) Paupiettes de dindonneau au souvenir (2045) Canards Mallart au Madere (2061) Vol-au-vent de poulet aux champignons (2399) ROTS. Faisans rotis aux truffes (21 10) Buisson d'ecrevisses (2572) RELEVES. Rissolettes a la Solferino (958) ENTREMETS. Asperges sauce mousseline (2692) Petits pois a la Francaise (2743) Gelee aux fruits (3187) Creme tutti frutti (3153) Petites caisses de homards a la ravigote (2447) Grosses truffes en serviettes (2843) RELEVES. Hure de sanglier en surprise garnie d'Africains (3255) Fondue aux truffes du Piemont (2954) Dessert BILLS OF FARE. 63 JANVIER. 24r3 DINER, 60 COUVEETS SERVICE A LA RUSSE. MENU. Servi par six, dix sur chaque plat. BUFFET SEPARE. Vermuth, Absinthe, Canapes de crevettes (777) Salade d'auchois (772) Kilmmel, Sherry Gelee de canneberges (598) Rhubarbe a la creme (3204) Thon marine (831) Radis (808) Olives (800) Caviar (778) Chablis 60 plats d'huitres sur coquilles (803) POT AGES (3 SOUPIERES). Amontillado Consomme Colbert aux oeufs poches(225) Bisque de homard (205) HORS-D'CEUVRE (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Timbales a la Talleyrand (988) Palmettes a la Perrier (922) POISSONS (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Fletan a la Coligny (1168) Filets de soles, Rochelaise (1276) RELEVES (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Dinde a la Franchise (2029) Selle d'agneau a la Chanceliere (1739) ENTREES (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Filets de volaille a la Certosa (1836) Cotelettes de tetras a la Segard (2259) Homard a la Rougemont (1041) Chaudfroid de cailles a la Baudy (2459) ROTS (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Perdreaux truffes (2100) Poularde au cresson (1996) LEGUMES (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Celeri a la moelle (2721) Petits pois fins a la Parisienne (2745) ENTREMETS SUCRES (CHAUDS) (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Brioches St. Marc (3006) Pouding a la Benvenuto (3092) ENTREMETS SUCRES (FROIDS) (3 PLATS DE CHAQUE). Vinde Paitte Gelee aux fruits (3 plats) (3187) Gaufres brisselets a la creme framboisee (3223) 60 Glaces variees (3538) FLANCS. 2 Chariots garnis de pommes d'api (3632) Une brouette garnie de fleurs sur socle (3638) CONTRE FLANCS. Deux etageres garnies de bonbons, marrons glaces et Victorias (3379) 8 Tambours garnis de petits fours (3364) Macarons (3379) Africains (3364) Bouchees de dames (3376) SEIZE BOUTS DE TABLE. 4 Corbeilles de fruits frais (3699) 4 Compotiers de fruits sees (3699) 4 Fromages (3697) 4 Compotes de pommes (3686) Cafe (3701) Haut Sauterne Batailty Champagne Pommery Sec Chateau La Rose 84 THE EPICUHEAlSr. JANVIER. DINER, 20 COUVERTS SERVICE A LA FRANQAISE. MENU. Premier Service. On place les hors-cPceuvre sur la table. Olives (800) Salade d'anchois (772) Celeri rave (779) Beurre (775) Radis (808) Melon cantaloup (799) Mortadelle (818) Caviar (778) Huitres sur coquilles avec citron (803) Les hors-d'oeuvre d'offlce se servent apres le potage POTAGES. Consomme 1 souveraine (243) Puree de volaille a la Dufferin (269) Marsala Timbales a la Lagardere (970) RELEVE. Bass raye a la Massena (1106) Marcobrunner Selle de mouton a la Duchesse (1644) Medoc Pomard ENTREES. Ailes de poulet a la Toulouse (1854) Cotelettes de filet de boeuf a la Babanine (2255) Ris de veau a la St. Cloud (1566) Salmis de becasses a la Beaumont (2207) Pichon Longueville PIECES FROIDES SUR SOCLE. Galantine de dinde. a la Berger (2499) Pate de foies-gras de Strasbourg (2564) Chateau Yquem Deuxieme Service. Retirer les hors-d'oeuvre et les pieces froides et placer le second service, nombre egal de plats du premier service. Salade en meme temps que le roti. INTERMEDE. Punch a Vlmptrial (3509) ROTS. Poulardes au cresson (1996) Canvasbacks rotis (canards sauvages) (2055) Chambertin Chateau Laffitte ENTREMETS. Quartiers d'artichauts (2688) Petits pois a la Frangaise (2743) Poires a la Ferriere (3085 1 ; Gelee macedoine au champagne (3179; Xeres GROS GATEAUX (sur socle) Napolitaine (3250) Mille-feuilles Pompadour (3247) Constance Troisieme Service. Enlever le tout excepte le milieu de table (dormant) qui est garni de fleurs ou de groupes, &c. DESSERT. Fromages varies (3697) Fruits frais en corbeilles (3699) 2'okai Gueridons garnis de biscuits aux amandes glacees (3369) de fondants au chocolat (3650) et de fondants a la vanille (3651) Alicante Muscat Glaces Alaska Florida (3538) Sabayon a la .Denari (3532) Gelee d'oranges en tasses (3180) Compote de poires (3692) La hotte a la Denivelle (3636) Casque en nougat garni de sucre file" (3598) Pale ale Le cafe 1 et les liqueurs sont servis au salon. BULLS OF FAHE. 65 FEBRUARY. DINNER 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Manestrone Milanese (322) Remove Fried soles a la Colbert (1271) Cucumbers, English style (2661) Entries Boiled leg of mutton with mashed turnips (1629) Chicken sauted a la Stanley (1900) Chicory with cream (2729) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Roast Pullet (1996) Salad Hot Entremets Fruit crusts a la Mirabeau (3025) Ice cream with white coffee (3460) Small fancy cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Oyster soup with ravioles (337) Remove Smelts a 1' Alexandria (1265) Persillade potatoes (2774) Entrees Roast stuffed chicken with tomato Conde" sauce (1883) Mutton cutlets, Russian style (1600) Celery stalks half-glaze (2721) Red cabbage, Montargis (2707) Roast Redhead duck (2064) Salad Hot Entremets Cream fritters, Pamela (3013) Almond ice cream (3461) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of Brussels sprouts (250) Side Dish Rissoles of brains, Princeton (947) Fish Shad, Irish style (1254) Boiled potatoes (2774) Remove Goose a la Chipolata (1945) Entrees Carbonnade of mutton a la Juvigny (1589) Salmis of teal duck a la Harrison (2070) Spinach with cream (2820) Lima beans (2699) Tosca punch (3519) Roast Truffled turkey garnished with black olives (2031) Salad Hot Entremets Rice border with bananas (3005) Caramel ice cream (3447) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert 24r8 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consomme 1 Adelina (215) Side Dish Mousseline Waleski (916) Fish Redsnapper a la Mobile (1235) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Quarter of boar, garnished with cutlets and breasts marinade sauce (2049) Entries Stuffed sweetbreads, Spanish style (1577) Chicken fricassee. Bouchard' (1862) Cauliflower, white sauce (2719) Smothered string beans (2828) Rum punch (3510) Roast Blackhead ducks (2052) Salad Hot Entremets Compiegne with sabayon (3009) Jardiniere cutlets ice cream (3555) Small fancy cakes (3364) Fruits (3699) Coffee (3701) 66 THE EPICUREAN. Q-49 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Puree of potatoes, Benton (278) Remove Redsnapper, Demidoff (1234) Entrees Leg of mutton, Bourdaloue (1623) Baked potatoes (2771) Braised pullet, modern style (1989) Boiled cauliflower with white sauce (2719) Roast Larded English partridges (2102) Salad Hot Entremets Flawn Golden Lion (3035) Cold Entremets Strawberry charlotte (3146) Fruits (3699) Dessert 25O FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSON'S. MENU. Soup Marshall (323) Remove Soles a la Normande (1274) Duchess potatoes (2785) Entrees Pullet, English style (1985) Glazed endive (2740) Mutton cutlets, macedoine (1594) Noodles milanese timbales (2988) Cold Entremets Rice a la Mirabeau (3213) Small cakes (3364) Fruits (3699) Dessert 251 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Julienne fau bonne (318) Side Dishes Atte"reaux of sweetbreads a la moderne (841) Fried oyster crabs (1005) Fish Soles, Venetian style (1278) Marchioness potatoes (2797) Remove Rack of lamb larded and roasted with puree of split peas (1735) Entrees Escalops of pheasant with olives (2283) Stuffed tomatoes, Provencal (2835) Sweetbreads, Piedmontese style (1563) Green peas, English style (2742) Roman punch (3515) Roast Canvasback duck (2055) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Spanish pudding (3110) Pineapple water-ice (3606) Small cakes (3364) Dessert 252 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 to 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup. Champetre (296) Side Dish Beef palate croquettes (875) Fish "Whltefish, pimentade sauce (1312) Potato cakes (2778) Remove Loin of veal a 1'Ambassade (1534) Entrees Chicken fillets Sadi Carnot (1853) Green peas with shredded lettuce (2747) Terrapin a la Newberg (1086) American sherbet (8521) Roast Ptarmigans (2072) Escarole salad (2671) Hot Entremets Chestnut croquettes (3017) Andalusian ice cream (3446) Small cakes (3364) Dessert BILLS OF 253 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Pure*e of beans a la Conde (280) Remove Fried soles (1280) Entries Leg of mutton, Parisian style (1634) Celery with bechamel and croutons (2720) Reedbirds vol-au-vent, Diplomate (2407) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Golden crusts (3021) Cold Entremets Ministerial pudding (3209) Fresh fruits (3699) Cheese (3697) Coffee (3701) 254: FRBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Remove Porgies with Chablis wine (1231) Mellow potatoes (2799) Entrees Oxtails with glazed vegetables (1325) Chickens sauted a la Nantaise (1896) String beans a 1'Albani (2825) Roast Leg of mutton (1633) "Water-cress salad (2676) Hot Entremets Glazed apple fritters (3037) Rye bread ice cream (3450) Fancy cakes (3364) Coffee (3701) 355 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consomme 1 Bariatenski (219) Side Dish Attereaux of turkey (842) Fish Pompano a 1'Anthelme (1220) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Remove Chine of pork a la Parmentier (1774) Entries Chicken epigrammes a la Volnay (1833) Tomatoes Trevise (2836) Tournedos of beef a la Marietta (1435) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Venetian sherbet Roast Brant ducks with cauliflower Villeroi (2053) Salad Hot Entremets Crescents of noodles with cherries (3015) Coffee mousse ice cream (3473) Small cakes (3364) Dessert 256 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Hunter's style (315) Side Dish Cassolettes Lusigny (860) Fish Sheepshead a la Meissonier (1260) Remove Rump of beef, Flemish style (1341) Entrees Breast of pullet, Macedoine (2002) Ravioles a la Bellini (2976) Mutton cutlets, breaded with pur^e of truffles (1599) Artichoke (bottoms) a la Soubise (2681) P)'unelle punch (3510) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Celery salad (2660) Hot Entremets Madeira crusts (3026) Cold Entremets Harrison pudding (3207) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert 68 THE EPICUREAN. 257 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PEESONS. MENU. Soup Noodles with Parmesan (830) Remove Perch with parsley water (1211) Boiled potatoes (2774) Entrees Suckling pig with sauerkraut (1811) Spinach a la Rougemont (2822) Lamb cutlets with mushrooms (1680) Small bunches of asparagus (2694) Roast Squabs (2018) Water-cress salad (2676) Hot Entremets Mundane fritters (3044) Stewed fruits (3686) Cheese (3697) Coffee (3701) * FEBRUARY. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS MENU. Soup Small individual soup pots (346) Remove Baked frostfish (1161) Potato croquettes, surprise (2782) Entrees Leg of mutton a la Bordelaise (1622) Spaghetti, Queen style (2968) Breasts of pullets a la Montmorency (1998) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast Ptarmigans (2072) Celery knob salad (2660) Hot Entremets Conde peaches (3081) Bavarois with Meringues (3133) Fruits (3699) Dessert 259 FEBRUARY. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Shrimps, mignon (345) Side Dish Colombines of chicken livers with ham (865) Fish Fried oyster crabs (1005) Remove Tenderloin of beef, Neapolitan style (1455) Entrees Grenades of turkey a la Jules Verne (2035) String beans a la Pettit (2827) Salmis of pheasants a la Lorenzo (2106) Tomatoes a la Boquillon (2833) Pdquerette sherbet (3527) Roast Capon (1826; Salad Hot Entremets Pear crusts (3027) Ice cream, Ribambelle (3576) Small cakes (3364) Dessert 260 FEBRUARY DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of Jerusalem artichokes (257; Side Dish Attereaux of game (842) Fish Fillets of soles a la Marguery (1273) Sarah Potatoes (2802) Remove Quarter of veal, Scotch style (1541) Entrees Grenadins of beef with round potatoes, Valoii sauce (1393) Chicken quenelles, Bretonne (2328) Brussels sprouts, Baroness style (2703) Artichokes a la Rachel (2690) Mephisto sherbet (3524) Roast Redhead ducks (2063) Chicory salad (2668) Hot Entremets Mellow pudding, apricot sauce (3094) Frozen Entremets Plombiere Montesquieu (3480) Small cakes (3364) Dessert BIJL.LS OF FARE. 69 FEVRIER G\ DINER 14 COUVERTS 1 L'ANGLAISK MENU. POTAGES. Consomme* Comus (226) Chartreuse (297) POISSONS. Black bass a la Narragansett (1095) Petoncles a la Brestoise (1074) GBOSSE PIECE. Jambon roti a la broche sauce madere (1789) ENTREES. Ailes de poulet a 1'Epicurienne (1842) Cotelettes de mouton & la Nelson (1596) Filets de faisan aux truffes (2105) Souffle de volatile (2359) ROTS. Canvasback duck (canard sauvage) (2055) Pate" de foies gras de"coup6 (8563) RELEVES. Charlotte de pommes a la Destrey (3007) Pouding Lafayette (3208) ENTREMETS. Croutes aux champignons (2759) Artichauts a la Rachel (2690) Tartelettes d'abricots (3402) Gelee au marasquin (3186) Glace Comtesse Leda (3548) BUFFET. Cotes debceuf roties a 1'Americaine (1331) Selle de mouton rotie (1605) Potage somoule (316) Os a la moelle sur croutes de pain grillees (1319) Tarte de noix de coco (3200) FEVRIER DINER 20 COUVERTS A LA RUSSE. MENU. 20 plats d'huttres et citrons (803) 2 POTAGES. 1 Brunoise aux quenelles (291) 1 Bisque de homard a la Cambridge (207) 2 HORS-D' Punch it la Romaine (3515) Selle de Chevreuil (2194) Salade de celeri mayonnaise (2660) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. trending souffle aux amandes pralinees (3113) Gateau Chamounix (3235) Gelee aux fruits (3187) Glaces Variees Dessert 104 THE EPICUREAN. 356 . , % DINER DE 10 COUVERTS SERVICE A LA RUSSK MENU. Lucines (803) POTAGE. Consomme 1 Bariatenski (219) HOBS-D'(EUVBE. Coulibiac u la Russe (908) POISSON. Grouper a la Franklyn (1162) RELEVE. SeUe d'agneau a la Chanceliere (1739) ENTREES. Ailes de ponlet a la Beranger (1834) Ris de veau a la La Valliere (1557) Punch & la Romaine (3515) ROT. Pigeonneaux (2018) ENTREMETS. Petits pois a la Franchise (2743) Beignets de Cerises (3042) Cornets a la creme a 1'orange (3148) DESSERT. Pieces montees ou corbeilles de fleurs (3G28) Compotes (8686) Fruits frais (3699) Petits fours (3364) PETIT BUFFET. Jtfr&s, Absinthe, Vermuth, Kiimmel Caviar (778) Olives farcies (801) Tartelettes nonpareil (825) Canape's de homard (777) Crevettes en raviers ou en bateaux (819) BILLS OF FARE. 105 357 AUGUST DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Chamberlain (295) Remove Pike perch a la Financiere (1214) Boiled potatoes (2774) Entrees Lamb cutlets a la Catalane (1671) Green peas, French style (2743) Chicken sauted with fine herbs (1907) Lima beans maitre-d'hotel (2699) Roast Woodcock (2206) Salad Hot Entremets Semolina croquettes, pistachio sauce (3019) (Iced) Semiramis mousse (3471) * AUGUST DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Sorrel, Flemish style (347) Remove Black bass with sweet peppers (1097) Potato croquettes (2782) Entries Stuffed shoulder of lamb with glazed vegeta- bles (1752) Squab fritters, Oporto sauce (2020) TrSvise tomatoes (2836) Roast Pheasant (2107) Salad Hot Entremets Venetian meringued croustade (3020) Cialdini ice cream (3445) 359 AUGUST. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Puree of Guinea fowl a la Washburn (279) Side Dish Att&eaux of chicken a la d'Antin (837) Fish Pompano Mazarin (1224) Potato croquettes (2782) Remove Pullet minion fillets a la Montpensier (1999) Stuffed tomatoes, Trevise (2836) Entries Lamb cutlets, Giralda (1676) Artichoke bottoms, soubise (2681) Woodcock hash in a croustade with soft eggs (2302) Rebecca sherbet (3528) Roast Saddle of venison (2194) Salad Hot Entremets Spanish pudding (3110) Mushrooms, ice cream (3568) Dessert 360 AUGUST. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bragance (290) Side Dish Bondons of pickerel, Walton (844) Fish Striped bass a la Rouennaise (1108) Broiled potatoes with fried bread raspings (2776) Remove Sirloin of beef with calf's brain patties (1355) Stuffed green peppers (2768) Entries Fillet of Guinea fowl a la Gaillardet (1957) Carrots with cream (2714) Frog legs a la Royer (1023) , Nenuphar punch (3513) Hot Entremets Pudding, Scotch style (3108) (Iced) Parfait with nougat (3478) Dessert 106 THE EPICUREAN. 361 AUGUST. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cabbage (292) Remove Salmon, Daumont (1239) Gastronome potatoes (2789) Entrees Noisettes of mutton a la Provengal (1611) Carrots, Colbert (2711) Chicken vol-au-vent with mushrooms (2399) Roast Partridges (2102) Salad Hot Entremets Golden crusts (3021) Cherries with cream (3154) Dessert 4, 363 AUGUST. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Bisque of crawfish a la Humboldt (203) Side Dish Scotch Timbales (985) Fish Sheepshead, Buena Vista, (1259) Potato fritters (2788) Remove Tenderloin of beef with truffles (1429) Eggplant, Duperret (2735) Entries Duckling, peasant style (1939) Glazed and larded sweetbreads with cepes, Bordelaise (1574) Green peas, English style (2742) SQ2 AUGUST. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Spaghetti (339) Remove Pike perch a la Royale (1216) Potato cakes with ham (2779) Entrees Grenadins of beef, Marc Aurele (1389) Green peas, housekeeper's style (2744) Broiled pullet, tartar sauce (1991) Breaded and fried cucumbers (2732) Russian salad (2645) Roast Reedbirds (2152) Hot Entremets Mirlitons of pears a la Bienvenue (3054) Ice cream with black coffee (3463) Dessert Roast Squabs (2018) Salad Hot Entremets Crusts with pineapple and apricot sauce (3022) Sicilian ice cream (3579) Dessert 364: AUGUST. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Consomme a la Florentine (232) Side Dish Patties, Queen style (938) Fish Salmon a la Victoria (1243) Viennese potatoes (2812) Remove Young turkey with turnips (2043) Baked artichoke bottoms bechamel (2686) Entrees Sweetbreads studded, Spanish style (1577) Stuffed peppers (2768) Fillet of sole tourte a la Financiere (2392) Pdquerette sherbet (3527) Roast Woodcock (2206) Salad Hot Entremets Fried cream, Maintenon (3010) (Iced) Souffle Alcazar (3533) Dessert BILLS OF FA:RE. 107 SEPTEMBER 365 DlNER DE 18 COUVERTS SERVICE A L'AMERIOAINE. MENU. Lucines orangees (803) POTAGES. Consomme" a la creme de faisan (227) Tortue verte liee (858) HORS-D'(EUVRE. Bressoles de foies gras (848) RELEVES. Bass raye" gratin6 an vin blanc (1113) Pommes marquise (2797) Cuissot de chevretul a la Francatelli (2183) Laitues braisues an jus (2754) ENTREES. Ailes de ponlet an supreme (1858) Petits pois a la Parisienne (2745) Timbale de homard a la d'Aumale (2385) Haricots verts Bourguignonne (2826) Punch a la Favorite (3508) ROT. Perdreaux sauce au pain (2102) FROID. Aspics de foies gras (2411) Salade de laitues (2672) ENTREMETS SUCRES. Pommes a la Nelson (2991) Gaufres brisselets a la creme framboisee (3223) Gelee aux fruits et au kirscb (3187) Pieces months (3628) Glace Bacchus (3590) Le puits (3591) Dessert (3701) 108 THE EPICUREAN. SEPTEMBRK 366 D!NER DE 200 OOUVERTS A LA RUSSE. MENU. HORS-D'(EUVRE FBOIDS. JSstomacs d'oie fume's (833) Hareng diable (777) Jambon de Westphalie (786) Melon cantaloup (799) Huitres (803) POTAGES. Consomme Franklyn (233) Bisque d'ecrevisses Persigny (204) HORS-D'(EUVRE CHAUDS. Timbales a la Benton (961) Croquettes de brochet a la Romaine (890) POISSONS. Halibut a 1'Amiral (1167) Eperlans Gondoliere (1266) RELEVES. Baron d'agneau tardif a la de Rivas (1661) Dinde a la Francaise (2029) ENTREES. Quenelles de t&ras a la Londonderry (2332) Casseroles de ris d'agneau a la de Luynes (2238) Chaudfroid de becassines en buisson (2461) Salade de homard a 1'Ame'ricaine (2638) ROTS. Pintades piquees garnies de leur plumages (1956) Selle de Chevreuil (2194) LEGUMES. Chicoree a la creme (2729) Choux de Bruxelles sautes (2704) ENTREMETS SUCRES. Ananas Caroline (3090) Gelee d'oranges en tasses (3180) Bavarois en surprise (3133) FLANCS. Gateau Chamounix (3235) Baba au Marsala (3002) DESSERT. Pieces montees (8628) Compotes (3686) Petits fours (3364) Fromages (3697) Devises (3653) Glaces variees (3538) Fruits frais (3699) Bonbons (3642) Amandes salees (3696) Cafe et liqueurs (3701) BILLS OF FARE. 10S SEPTEMBRE. 367 DtNER DE 20 COUVERTS SERVICE 1 L'ANGLAISE. MENU. 2 POTAGES. Consomme" Britannia (221) Bisque de homard (205) 2 POISSONS. Maquereau Espagnol a la Perigord (1196) Sheepshead au court bouillon (1262) 2 RELEVES. Filet de boauf Kothschild (1457) Selle de mouton a 1'Allemande (1645) 4 ENTREES. Ailes de poulet a la Genin (1843) Cepes farcis (2726) Palais de veau & la Sevigne" (1539) Haricots verts sautes (2829) Noisettes de chevreuil a la Thierry (2196) Croutes aux champignons (2759) Souffle's de homard (2363) 2 ROTS. Oie a la Royer (1946) Vanneaux a la Dumanoir (2122) 2 RELEVES. Omelette fourre'e aux fraises (3068) St. Honore" Sultane (8261) 4 ENTREMETS. Petits pofe & la Frangaise (2743) Timbale Nantaise (2381) Oroutes dories (8021) Rhubarbe a la creme (3204) BUFFET. Paillettes au fromage (823) Marcassin sauce marinade garni de cotelettes et poitrine (2049) Jambon roti sauce Madere (1789) Langnes de boeuf a la Romaine (1467) Epinards bouillis (2823) THE EPICUREAN. SEPTEMBRE. 368 DtNEE DE 18 COUVERTS SERVICE A LA FRANQA1SE. S MENU. Huitres (803) HORS-D'OEUVRE FROIDS. Articbauts poivrade (773) Olives farcies aux anchois (801) Boeuf fume (822) Canape's d'e"crevisses (777) Corniclions (785) Tlion marine (831; POTAGES. Consomme" Colbert aux oeufs poches (225) Creme de riz Cremieux (249) HORS-D'CEUVRE CHAUD. Timbales Lagardere (970) RELEVES. Bass raye"e Maintenon (1105) Filet de boeuf a la Richelieu Moderne (1456) ENTREES. Ailes de poulet a la Lorenzo (1845) Cotelettes d'agneau a la Talma (1687) Ris de veau a la Marsilly (1559) Filet de tetras a la Tzarine (2073) ENTREES FR01DES SUh SOCLES. Aspic de poularde a la Cussy (2418) Pate de foies gras de Strasbourg (2564) INTERMEDE. Sorbet Californienne (3523) ROTS. Dinde truffle garnie d'olives noires (2031) Becassines anglaises au cresson (2159) ENTREMETS. Petits pois Parisienne (2745) Choux de Bruxelles sautes (2704) Gel^e a la rose (3181) Charlotte de pommes a la Destrey (3007) GROS GATEAUX. Vacherin (3264) Nougatine (3251) DESSERT. Fruits (3699) Compotes (3686) Petits fours (3364) Cafe" (3701) BILLS OF FARE. Ill 369 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Monteille (325) Remove Blackfish a la Orly (1114) Boiled potatoes (2774) Entrees Squabs, English style (2014) Tomatoes, Provengal (2835) Veal tongue, Flemish style (1583) Fried oyster plant (2817) Roast Snipe (2159) Water-cress and apple salad (2676) Hot Entremets Golden Lion flawn (3035) Iced biscuit, Diplomate (3435) Stewed fruits (3686) Coffee (3701) 37O SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of chicory, Evers (258) Remove Kingfish, Bateliere a 179) Mashed potatoes ^2798) Entries Pullet a la Arco Valley (1971) Red cabbage, Montargis (2707) Paupiettes of beef with fine herbs (1421) Lima beans, maitre-d'hotel (2699) Larded partridges with gravy and water-cress (2102) Hot Entremets Light pancakes with jams (3079) (Iced) Bomb Fifth avenue (3440) Bonbons (3642) Mottoes (3653) Dessert * 371 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Cream of squash (263) Side Dish Small patties, Victoria (942) Fish Halibut a la Coligny (1168) Mellow potatoes (2799) Remove Beef tenderloin a la printaniere (1464) Tomatoes, Queen style (2840) Entrees Partridge fillets a la Veron (2089) Artichoke bottoms with cauliflower (2685) Reedbird patty (2312) Elizabeth punch (3507) Roast Saddle of venison (2194) Salad Hot Entremets Apricots with rice a la Jefferson (3001) Pineapple water ice (3606) Dessert 372 SEPTEMBER DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Paterson (340) Side Dish Eissoles of crawfish, Beatrice (949) Fish Striped bass, Bercy (1101) Persillade potatoes (2774) Remove Haunch of roebuck a la Bouchard (2178) Fried artichokes (2683) Entrees Guinea fowl w r ith sauerkraut (1958) Broiled potatoes (2776) Braised and stuffed woodcock (2209) Green peas, Parisian style (2745) Paradise sherltet (3525) Roast Blackhead ducks (2052) Salad Hot Entremets Apples a la Nelson (2991) Bavarian cream with chocolate (3131) (Iced) Cavour pudding (3489) Dessert 112 THE EPICUREAN. 373 SEPTEMBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSON& MENU. Soup Croute au pot (305) Remove Fresh mackerel maitre-d'hotel (1193) Tomato salad (2666) Entries Grenadins of beef with potatoes, Valois sauce (1393) Saute"d string beans (2829) Timbale of noodles, Milanese (2988) Roast Teal ducks (2068) Macedoine (2650) Hot Entremets Souffle fritters, M Hot Entremets Orange fritters a la Talleyrand (3045) (Cold) Printaniere crown (3158) Dessert 396 OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Pur6e of partridge a la d'Henin (276) Side Dish Imperial timbales (968) Fish Fresh codfish, Norwegian style (1137) Snow potatoes (2798) Remove Sirloin of beef a la Perrin (1353) Oyster plant with fine herbs (2817) Pullet a la Villars (1982) Mushrooms with cream (2761) Lamb cutlets, Giralda (1676) Baked tomatoes (2837) Tosca punch (3519) Roast English snipe (2159) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Hot Entremets Apples a la Giudici (2990) Charlotte Corday ice cream (3546) Dessert BILLS OF FARE. 121 397 OCTOBEE. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Puree of wild squabs, Waleski (277) Carp a la Chambord (1129) Viennese potatoes (2812) Entrees Snipe a 1'Africaine (2153) Cauliflower with fine herbs (2716) Chicken sauted a la Bourguignonne (1884) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast Teal ducks (2068) Cos lettuce salad (2675) Hot Entremets Knob celeriac fritters (3041) (Iced) Diplomate biscuits (3435) Dessert 398 OCTOBER. DINNER, 8 TO 10 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Chicken and leeks (298) Remove Buffalo fish a la Bavaroise (1125) Potato fritters (2788) Entrees Roast goose a la Thieblin (1947) Macaroni with cream and truffles (2962) Mutton cutlets with cucumbers (1603) Fried eggplant (2739) Roast Plovers (2119) Cucumber salad (2661) Hot Entremets Crusts of pears, Douglas (3028) Mousse of fruits with pineapple (3474) Dessert 399 OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Soup Pure"e of wild turkey, Sartiges (284) Side Dish Mousseline of woodcock (918) Fish Blackfish a la San ford (1115) Boiled potatoes (2774) Remove Suckling pig a la Piedmontese (1809) Noodles a la Lauer (2970) Entries Pullet a la Seymour (1981) Glazed endives (2740) English snipe in papers (2158) Andalouse sherbet (3522) Roast Canvasback ducks (2055) Lettuce salad (2672) Hot Entremets Apples with praslin (3000) Leona ice cream (3558) Dessert 4rOO OCTOBER. DINNER, 16 TO 20 PERSONS. MENU. Side Dish Palmettes of pullet a la Clinton (930) Fish Spotted fish, green ravigote sauce (1286) Potato croquettes (2782) Remove Roast goose, German style (1 948) Braised onions (2765) Entries Grenadins of beef with celery bechamel (1392) Smothered string beans (2828) Cases of thrushes a la Diana (2237) Tomatoes Trwith chicken and bacon i Si. A N LJ Merinsrue bavaroise cream\ ^ / Macedoine jelly Pain of calf liver, Salpicon Ribs of beef en bellevue Turkey in daube, Verneuil Coifee Tea BILLS OF FAilE. 147 SEPTEMBER. 4r52 AMBIGU 200 PERSONS. Radishes (808) Celery (779) Butter (775) Gherkins (785) Olives (800) Red cabbage, marinated, English style (776) Caviar (778) Chow-chow (791) Salted almonds (3696) Hard-boiled eggs on canape's (777) Marinated cauliflower (776) Anchovy salad (772) Potato salad with herring (2653) Slices of salmon with jelly (2578) Roasted peacock adorned with its plumage (2552) Galantine of suckling pig (2498) Kernel of veal with mayonnaise tomatoed sauce (2527) Beef a la mode (2433) Capon legs with truffles (1826) Cold snipe pie (2567) Lobster with mayonnaise (2534) Small " pain" of chicken a la Freycinet (2544) Galantine of gosling, melon shaped (2489) Pork liver terrine (2551) Japanese salad (2636) Barlow sandwiches (812) Rillettes (809) Slices of bread and butter (820) Sandwiches with anchovies (816) French roll sandwiches, American style (816) Assorted ice cream (3538) Fancy cakes (3364) Fruits (3699) Claret punch (3714) Lemonade (3713) Iced coffee (3609) Iced chocolate (3608) 148 THE EPICUREAN. OCTOBER 4:53 SUPPER FOR 300 PERSONS-ENGLISH SERVICE. BILL OF FARE. LARGE PIECES. Chicken pie (2554) Ribs of beef a la bourgeoise (2431) Ham glazed with sugar (2522) Turkey in daube (2616) ENTREES. Ballotines of quails a la Tivolier (2426) Decorated darne of salmon (2576) Cutlets of pheasant in chaudfroid (2477) Smoked red beef tongues (2608) Lamb cutlets, Imperial (2471) Galantine of pullet a la Mozart (2497) Lobster salad, American style (2638) Chicken mayonnaise (2625) RESERVE. Chickens (2469) and tongues (2608) Terrine of pork liver (2602) PASTRY PIECES. Fleury cake (3237) Nougatine cake (3251) Savoy biscuit (3231) Iced baba (3227) SWEET DISHES OF SMALL PASTRIES AND ICES. Pear tartlets (3337) Lozenges (3349) Espagnolettes (3346) Apricot nougat (3319) Nantes cakes (3352) Small fancy ices (3538) Japanese cakes (3347) Biscuits glaces (3438) " Pain" of bananas, Havanese (3195) Malakoff cream (3150) Surprise Bavarois (3132) Jelly with fruit and kirsch (3187) HOT SERVICE ON SIDEBOARD. Bisque of clams a la Hendrick (197) Cream of barley, Vienna style (249) Nizam pearls (316) Roast pullets (1996) BILLS OF FARE. 149 NOVEMBER 454: SOUPER BUFFET ET ASSIS DE 400 PEKSONNES. MENU BUFFET. CHAUD. Consomme" de gibier (192) Mousseline Isabelle (912) Huitres a la Hollandaise (1066) Huitres frites a la Orly (1060) Bouchees a la Victoria (942) Quenelles de terras a la Londonderry (2332) P6toncles a la Brestoise (1074) Queues de homard a la Stanley (1042) Terrapene a la Baltimore (1083) Cafe (3701) The (3704) FROID. Saumon de TOrSgon a la Venitienne (2587) Filet de boeuf aux croustades macedoine (2440) Galantine de dinde a la Berger (2499) Langue de boauf ecarlate en arcade (2607) Becasses a la Valere (2619) Aspic de foies gras (2411) Mousseline de kingfish a la Briere (2536) Poulet roti garni de gele"e (2469) Mayonnaise de poulet (2625) Salade de homard a PAme'ricaine (2638) Sandwichs de gibier (814) Rillettes (809) Canape's (777) ENTREMETS SUCRES ET DESSERT. Pouding Valois (3211) Gelee aux framboises (3183) Gateau Vacherin a la creme (3264) Savarin a la Valence (3259) GLACES V ARISES. Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Champagne glace (3710) Le souper est dresse 1 en buffet, ensuite servi sur des petites tables de cinq a dix converts, on decoupe le froid que 1'on dresse sur des petits plats que Ton place sur chacune des tables ainsi que le hors d'ceuvre froid. Avant de servir Fentremet Sucre et le dessert on remplace le froid et le hors d'oauvre par les gele'es poudings, gateaux, fruits, etc. Le chaud est au choix des convives- 150 THE EPICUREAN. DECEMBRE. 55 SOUPER BUFFET ET ASSIS POUR 100 COUVERT8. MENU BUFFET. CHAUD. Consomme" de volaille (190) Creme d'orge a la Viennoise (249) Huitres fricassees a la poulette (1067) Timbales a la Soubise (986) Coquilles de saumon (2346) Bouchers Turbigo (941) Terrapene a la Maryland (1085) Canvasbacks (canards sauvages) (2055) Cafe" (3701) The (3704) FROID. Chaudfroid de Courlis (2452) Terrine de lievre (2598) Langue de boauf e"carlate a la gele"e (2609) Aspics de filets mignons de perdreaux (2416) Cdtelettes de noix d'agneau mayonnaise (2474) Filets de poulet a la Gallier (2466) Salade de c61eri mayonnaise (2660) Salade de homard a 1'Ame'ricaine (2638) Sandwichs variees (815) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR FROIDS ET DESSERT. GeI6e au rhum (3186) Gaufres brisselets a la creme framboisee (3223) Gateau noisettes (3241) Charlotte Bengalienne (3142) Bombe panache'e au cafe" blanc et noir (3444) Souffle glace a la Favart (3534) Tutti frutti (3586) Biscuit glace" (3438) Toronchino Procope (3583) Fruits (3699) Petits fours (3364) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Lefroid est decoupe" et servi sur table (want de servir le Souper. Le Souper assis est servi sur des tables de 5 a 10 Converts dans 1'ordre suivant. Consomme" de volaille Creme d'orge a la Viennoise Timbales a la Soubise Bouchees Turbigo Huitres fricassees a la poulette Coquilles de saumon Cotelettes de uoix d'agneau mayonnaise Filets de poulet a la Gallier Terrapene a la Maryland Chaudfroid de Courlis Terrine de lievre Langue de boeuf ecarlate a la gel^e Aspics de filets mignons de perdreaux Salade de homard a 1'Americaine Sandwichs variees Oanvasbacks (canards sauvages) Salade de celeri mayonnaise Gel6e au rhum Gaufres brisselets a la creme framboisee Gateau noisettes Charlotte Bengalienne Bombe panachee au caf6 blanc et noir Souffle" glace a la Favart Tutti frutti Biscuit glace Toronchino Procope Fruits Petits fours Bonbons Devises BILLS OF FARE. 151 SUPPER. JANUARY. 4:56 * JANUARY. Oysters on the half shell (803) Crawfish mariniere (1009) Breasts of woodcock a la Houston (2201) Deviled ribs of beef (1331) Aspic of breast of quail (2419) (Ice) Croquettes macedoine (3559) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert 4=57 Oysters on the half shell (803) Lobster on skewers, Colbert (2222) Game croquettes a la Dauphine (885) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast redhead ducks (2063) Celery mayonnaise salad (2660) Ice cream (3458) Dessert JANUARY. 458 Oysters on the half shell (803) Woodcock croquettes with truffles (892) Mutton kidneys on skewers, deviled (1620) Lobster tails in their shells (2533) (Ice) Souffles Palmyra (3535) Dessert JANUARY. 459 Oysters (803) Crusts with Chester cheese (946) Crawfish with butter (1011) Lamb sweetbreads, Sevigne (1762) Roast squabs (2018) (Ice) Nesselrode pudding with candied chest- nuts (3495) Dessert FEBRUARY. 46O Oysters (803) Consomme" (189) Marechalo mousseline (913) Escalops of fat livers a la Villeneuve (2279) Green peas, English style (2742) Doe birds (2051) (Ice) Stuffed tomatoes (3582) Dessert FEBRUARY. 461 Oysters in cases a la Lorenzo (2232) Fresh mushroom patties (937) Striped bass a la Manhattan (2428) Chicken souffle a la Delsart (2360) Roast plover (2119) Salad Charlotte Russe (3145) FEBRUARY. Oysters in their natural shells with fried bread (2353) Lobster, American style (1024) Chicken salad (2626) Roasted English snipe (2159) (Ice) Plombiere a la Havanaise (3484) Dessert FEBRUARY. 463 Oysters on crusts (1062) Turkey croquettes (894) Noisettes of tenderloin of beef, plain (1410) Sarah potatoes (2802) Aspic of foies-gras (2411) Asparagus salad (2621) Montelimar with hazel-nut ice cream (3566) 152 THE EPICUREAN. MAKCH. Cream of barley, Vienna style (249) Fried stuffed oysters (1070) Cr6pine of reedbirds (2247) Lobster mayonnaise, Printaniere (796) Roast ptarmigan with gravy (2072) (Ice) Bomb with kirsch (3443) Dessert SUPPER. MARCH. 4,65 Welsh rarebit (946) Lamb kidneys on skewers (1703) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Roast squabs (2018) Strawberry water ice (3607) Sponge cake (3260) Dessert MARCH. 4:66 Clear bouillon (187) Squab cutlets a la de Luynes (2266) Green peas, English style (2742) Broiled chicken (1831) Norwegian salad (2641) (Ice) Andalusian cream (3446) Dessert MARCH. 4,67 Consomme 1 (189) Chicken croquettes, Exquisite (877) Small green peas, Parisian style (2745) Lobster a la Newberg (1037) Pheasant adorned with its own plumage (2107) (Ice) Fiori di latte a la Bellini (3467) Dessert APRIL. 4,68 Oysters and lemons (803) Trout marinated in wine (829) Minions of tenderloin of beef a la Baillard (1400) English partridges (2102) Celery salad (2660) (Ice) Diploma te biscuit (3435) Dessert APRIL. 4,69 Toast with oil and cheese (992) Croquettes of frogs (884) Pullet crepine (2243) Oyster salad (2642) Roast squabs (2018) (Ice) Plombiere a la Rochambeau (3482) Dessert APRIL. 4=70 APRIL. 4:71 Oysters (803) Crawfish, Maison d'Or (1010) Sweetbread in cases la Grammont (2235) Quartered artichokes (2688) Roast chicken with jelly and beef tongue (2469) Strawberry mousse ice cream (3474) Dessert Bouillon (187) Toast a la Waddington (862) Shells of oysters a la Villa (2340) Breasts of chicken a la Beranger (1834) Potato shavings (2807) English snipe (2159) Mignon salad (2620) (Ice) Turban with strawberries (3100) BILLS OF FAHE. 153 SUPPER. MAY. 4:72 ' Clams (803) Yorkshire rarebit (946) Lobster a la Bounefoy (1026) Dauphine potatoes (2783) Broiled chicken (1831) (Ice) Komanoff pudding (3497) Dessert MAY. 4.73 Consomme" (189) Crusts of clams a la Schenk (903) Ham mousseline a la Belmont (911) Ptarmigans, currant jelly (2072) Romaine salad (2675) (Ice) Tutti frutti (3586) Dessert MAY. 4:74= Clams (803) Toast with sardines (992) Venetian timbales (989) Lamb cutlets with mayonnaise (2474) Broiled squabs, Colbert sauce (2013) (Ice) Bomb with maraschino (3443) Dessert MAY. 4,75 Consomme (189) Soft clams a la poulette (995) Lamb cutlets, Signora (1686) Chicken salad with vegetables (2627) Broiled duckling (1938) Salad (Ice) Parfait with coffee (3479) Dessert JUNE. 4,76 Clams (803) Brissotins of chicken supreme (849) Lobsters a la Newberg(1037) Border of forcemeat a la Duchess (2211) Roast squabs (2018) Ice cream parfait nougat (3478) Salad Dessert JUNE. Clams (803) Rissoles of lamb (952) Small green peas, Parisian style (2745) Duckling a la Rouennaise (1937) Broiled chicken (1831) Lettuce salad (2672) (Ice) Stuffed tomatoes (3582) Dessert JULY. 478 Clams (803) Lobster mayonnaise Printaniere (795) Brissotins of chicken au supreme (849) Green peas, French style (2743) Roast squabs (2018) Salad (Ice) Bomb streaked with white and black coffee (3444) Dessert JULY. 479 Clams (803) Timbales Calaisienne (962) Sweetbread cutlets a la Talleyrand (2272) Green peas, English style (2742) Roast sand-snipe with water-cress (2161) (Ice) Vanilla mousse (3458) Dessert 154 THE EPICUREAN. SUPPER. AUGUST. 480 Clams (803) Croustades Parrnentier (896) Chicken quenelles with consomme (2329) Sauted mushrooms (2760) Chaudfroid of lamb cutlets (2475) Broiled reedbirds (2151) Salad Virgin ice cream with orange-flower water (3459) Dessert AUGUST. 481 Clams (803) Quenelles of spring turkey (2336) Green peas, English style (2742) Cases of thrush with jelly (2449) Broiled wild squabs (2112) Tomato salad (2666) (Ice) Roman bomb (3442) Dessert SEPTEMBER. Oysters (803) Fish quenelles, Montglas (2330) Tenderloin of beef with olives (1428) Artichoke bottoms a la Soubise (2681) Roast woodcock (2206) Celery salad (2660) (Ice) Mousse with peaches (3474) Dessert SEPTEMBER. 483 Oysters (803) Anchovy fritters (835) Partridge fillets, Giralda (2086) Roast duckling with green mayonnaise and fine herbs (1938) Aspics of foies gras (2412) Salad (Ice) Fiori di latte a la Bellini (3467) Dessert OCTOBER. 484 Consomme (189) Scallops on toast, baked (1078) Chicken fillets a la Genin (1843) Green peas, English style (2742) Broiled plover (2118) Salad (Ice) Biscuit glacis (3438) OCTOBER. 485 Oysters (803) Bressoles of fat liver (848) Minions of tenderloin of beef a la Dumas (1402) Salad of crawfish with jelly (2630) Roasted woodcock (2206) (Ice) Duchess pudding (3492) Small fancy cakes (3364) Dessert OCTOBER. 486 OCTOBER. 487 Oysters (803) Deviled stuffed lobster a la Carlu (1043) Toasted bread with bacon (827) Chicken breasts, Empress style (1841) Broiled snipe (2157) Cucumber salad (2661) (Ice) Marvelous (3563) Dessert Consomme (189) Ham mousseline Virginienne (911) Small aspics of foies gras (2412) Roasted ruddy duck (2066) Lettuce salad (2672) (Ice) Mokabelle (3565) Dessert BILLS OF FARE. 155 SUPPER. NOVEMBER. 488 Oysters (803) Partridge quenelles a la Stuart (2333) Artichoke bottoms a la Mornay (2680) Terrapin a la Trenton (1090a) Roast grouse (2072) Cos lettuce salad (2675) (Ice) Mousse with macaroons (3477) Dessert NOVEMBER. 489 Oysters (803) Small cases with fat livers (2229) Lamb cutlets a la Turenne (1688) Shells of capon with jelly (2590) Broiled woodcock (2204) Salad Parfait with coffee (3479) Dessert NOVEMBER. 49O Oysters (803) Toast, Florentine (991) Cromesquis of crabs, Rumpford (869) Terrapin, Epicurean style (1090b) Small aspics of foies gras (2412) Roast plover (2119) Celery salad (2660) (Ice) Toronchino Procope (3583) NOVEMBER. 491 Oysters (803) Consomme" (189; Palmettes of snipe a la Osborn (932) St. Jacques shells, Parisian style (1079) Toasted bread with chicken (827) Roast quails (2131) Escarole salad (2671) (Ice) Basket of oranges (3570) DECEMBER. Oysters (803) Consomme (189) Capon croquettes a la Royale (876) Peas English style (2742) Terrapin a la Maryland (1085) Roast reedbirds with water-cress (2252) Ice cream with chestnuts (3465) Dessert DECEMBER. 493 Consomme (189) Brochettes of oysters with truffles (1058) Sweetbreads a la Mirabeau (2595) Fat livers, Toulousaine (2287) Fried egg-plant (2739) Roasted grouse (2072) Salad (Ice) Biscuit with vanilla, melon shape (3438) Dessert DECEMBER. 494 DECEMBER. Welsh rarebit a la Cutting (946) Lobster a la Bordelaise (1026) Noisettes of tenderloin of beef Berthier (1411) Terrapin a la Newberg (1086) Roast squabs (2018) Water-cress salad (2676) (Ice) Harlequin (3554) Dessert Consomme (189) Oysters on toast (1062) Ham mousseline a la Costa (911) Terrapin a la Crisfield (1084) Roast woodcock (2206) Okra and sweet pepper salad (2651) (Ice) Potatoes (3575) Dessert 156 TME EPICUREAN. JANVIER. 496 BUFFET POUR 300 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Consomme de gibier (192) Huitres a la Villeroi (1056) Rissolettes a la Renan (957) Bouchees ' de ris de veau a la Frangaise (940) Terrapene, Maryland Club (1088) Perdreaux piques rotisau jus et cresson (2102) Crabes durs farcis a la diable (1004) FROID. Saumon a la Moderne (2582) Filet de bceuf a la Lucullus (2436) Voliere de faisan a la Waddington (2424) Jambon decore a la Gatti (2521) Ballotines de pigeonneaux a la Madison (2427) Galantine de faisan a la Lorenzo (2494) Langues de bceuf, Rochefort (2606) Salmis froid de perdreaux (2574) Salade de hoinard a TAmericaine (2638) Mayonnaise de volatile (2625) Tetras rods au jus (2072) Sandwichs (811) Tartines de pain blanc beurrees (820) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Paniers d'oranges a la gelee (3130) Bavarois aux marrons (3136) Gateau aux amandes (3225) Gaufres brisselets a la creme f ramboisee (3223) GLACES. Bacchus (3590) Le Puits (3599) Toronchino Procope (3583) Tutti frutti (3586) Napolitaine (3569) Mokabelle (3565) PIECES MONTEES. Corne d'Abondance (3635) Chariot garni de pommes d'api (3632) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert FEVRIER. 4,97 BUFFET POUR 200 PERSONNES. MENU. CHAUD. Consomme (189) Huitres frites au beurre (1061) Rissoles de palais de veau (952) Bouchees a la Victoria (942) Terrapene a la Baltimore (1083) Crabes durs farcis a la Caroline (1003) Ruddy duck roti (2066) Cafe (3701) FROID. Galantine d'anguilles (2488) Canetons aux olives Espagnole (2482) Faisan farci a la Prince Orloff (2553) Chaudfroid de filets de canards a tote rouge (2460) Filets de poulet Mirebel (2464) Mousseline de homard (2537) Aspic de foies gras (2411) Coquilles de chapon a la gelee (2590) Tartines de pain de seigle beurrees (820) Petits pains garnis de rillettes de Tours (809) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gateau Mille feuilles Pompadour (3247) Gateau Favart (3263) Gelee au Madere (3186) Charlotte Russe (3145) GLACES. Ananas en surprise (3595) Turban a la vanille et aux fraises (3600) Madnlian (3562) Pommes de terre (3575) Pasteque (3589) Biscuit glace a la Diplomate (3435) PIECES MONTEES. Vase en sucre file (3637) Moulin a vent (3639) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) Dessert BILLS OF 157 MARS. 4r98 BUFFET POUR 250 PERSONNEL MENU. CHAUD. Bouillon clair (187) Brochettes d'huitres aux truffes (1058) Rissoles de volatile (948) Terrapene a la Maryland (1085) Homard a 1'Americaine (1024) Timbales a la La Valliere (2357) Cafe (3701) FROID. Sautnon a la Farragut (2581) Filet de boeuf aux legumes mayonnaise (2441) Buisson de crustaces a la Rochelaise (2572) Timbale de faisan aux truffes (2605) Galantine a la Berger (2499) Langue de boeuf Ecarlate en Arcade (2607) Chaudfroid de mauviettes (2454) Pate de longe d'agneau a la gelee (2561) Cuisses de poulet en forme de caneton ravi- gote (2529) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gateau Favart (3263) Biscuit aux amandes (3229) Gelee prunelle (3186) Bavarois aux meringues (3133) GLACES. Comtesse Leda (3548) Timbale Chateaubriand (3581) Panier de Perrette (3629) (Eufs a la Tremontaine (3550) Mignonne (3564) Biscuit tutti frutti (3585) PIECES MONTEES. Corbeille garnie de fruits (3628) Panier garni d'oranges (3570) Fruits (3699) Bonbons (3642) Devises (3653) 1 )ossert AVRIL. 4:99 BUFFET POUR 150 PERSON NES. MENU. CHAUD. Consomme (189) Huitres a la poulette (1067) Palmettes a la Varsovienne (924) Rissoles de palais de boeuf (952) Bouchees Turbigo (941) Terrapene a la Crisfleld (1084) Cafe (3701) FROID. Saumon a la Russe (2586) Filet de boeuf a la Noailles (2437) Galantine de pigeon (2496) Jambon truffe a la Florian (2523) Dinde en daube a la Verneuil (2615) Cotelettes d'agneau a 1'aspic (2473) Petites caisses de grives a la gelee (2449) Aspic de faisan (2417) Salade de homard a 1'Americaine (2638) Mayonnaise de poulet (2625) Sandwichs de viandes variees (615) ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR ET DESSERT. Gateau Genoise (3239) Gel (329). MUTTON A LA OOWLEY AND MUTTON HOOHEPOT (Mouton a la Cowley et Mouton a la Hochepot). Bone and remove carefully the skin, nerves, and fat from three necks of mutton, cutting the meat into three-eighth inch squares. Put into a saucepan the fragments, bones and parings taken from the necks, also a split knuckle of veal; moisten with eight quarts of broth, and put it on the fire in order to boil the liquid; skim, and add some carrots, turnips, bunch of celery, leeks, and onions, all minced up fine, seasoning with pepper, salt, and cloves. Boil slowly and uninterrupt- edly for two hours; then skim off the fat, and strain the broth through a sieve. Put six ounces of butter into a saucepan, with four ounces of one-eighth inch squares of onions; add four ounces of leeks cut Julienne shape, half a pound of carrots, half a pound of turnips, two ounces of celery, all being cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, and the meat from the necks previously prepared; SOUPS. 275 moistening the whole with the broth, and cook for two hours. Then free it from fat, season and add a garnishing of small chicken quenelles (No. 154), shaped as large peas and a pluche of chervil A supplementary garnishing may be added of rice, or of pearl barley. For Mutton Hochepot, use the mutton the same as explained for the above, adding for each quart of broth, one pint of the puree of dried peas, and half a pint of puree of spinach. For all mixed clear soups, the consistency should be approximately after the soup is drained, two-thirds of liquid to one-third of solid matter, while for thick soups, three-quarters liquid to one-quarter solid. (330). NOODLE SOTIP WITH PARMESAN CHEESE (Potage aux Nouilles au Parmesan). For the Paste. Sift through a fine sieve, half a pound of flour, moisten it with four egg- yolks and one whole egg, adding a little salt and water; work well together and knead it till tho paste is thoroughly well mixed, roll it down to one-sixteenth inch in thickness; let it dry in the open air; then fold it up, one inch and a half wide, and cut this into fine strips, dredging them over with flour, to prevent them sticking together; blanch them in boiling, salted water for one minute, then drain and put them into a saucepan with some consomme to simmer for five minutes; remove all the fat from the top, and serve in a soup tureen with some good consomme". Serve separately some grated parmesan cheese. (331). ONION SOUP WITH PARMESAN CHEESE BROWNED, AND THICKENED ONION SOUP (Soupe k 1'Oignon et au Parmesan Gratin6 et Soupe a 1'Oignon lie"e). Cut into small eighth of an inch squares, two medium or four ounces of onions, fry them in butter and moisten with two quarts of broth, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with chervil, bay leaf and a clove of garlic; season with a little salt, pepper and some meat extract; boil for twenty minutes, then remove the bouquet, and pour the soup over very thin slices of bread placed in a metal soup tureen, in intervening layers of bread and cheese, parmesan, finishing with the parmesan, and sprinkle a little over the top of the soup. Bake in a hot oven. Onion Soup Thickened. To prepare onion soup cut up two medium onions, mince them finely, and fry them colorless in butter, adding two dessertspoonfuls of flour, and cooking it a few moments with the onions, then dilute with two quarts of broth. Season with pepper and a little salt, boil for ten minutes, and just when ready to serve thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks diluted in cream, and a little fine butter. Pour the soup over round, thin slices of bread, about one inch and a quarter in diameter, dried in the oven. (332). OXTAIL SOUP A LA SOYER (Potage de Queue de Boeuf a la Soyer). Cut three oxtails into small pieces from the thin end, stopping at the third joint from the thick end, and keep this large piece aside for braising (No. 1324). Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan; cut four ounces of the red part of a carrot, and the same quantity of turnip into quarter inch squares, add these to the butter after it is hot, also a bunch of parsley, garnished with one bay leaf, and fry without letting attain a color, then add three tablespoon fuls of flour and the tails; cook all together to a light brown, afterward moistening with four quarts of broth, and adding a quarter of a pound of blanched onions, cut in squares. Season with salt and Worces- tershire sauce, boil slowly and continuously until the meat is done. Have cooked separately for three hours in some white broth, two ounces of pearl barley, add this to the soup, also one gill of sherry when serving. If clear oxtail be needed, suppress the flour and barley, and thicken with three spoonfuls of arrowroot diluted in a little cold water. (333). OYSTER SOUP, AMERICAN STYLE (Soupe aux Huitres U'Ame"ricaine). For Ten Persons. Put sixty medium oysters including their juice, and as much water, into a tin saucepan with a perforated cover (Fig. 186), specially made for this soup; season with salt and pepper, and set them on a quick fire; as soon as the steam escapes through the holes on the cover, remove the saucepan from the fire, and pour into it two and a half gills ot milk, and two and a half ounces of butter, then serve. In those establishments whose specialty is oysters, before serving oyster soup, they place before each person a plateful of finely minced raw cabbage (cold slaw); this cabbage is to be seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar, and tomato catsup. 276 THE EPICUREAN. (334), OYSTEE SOUP A LA OEUTST (Soupe aux Huitres a la Cruyst), For Ten Persons. Mince up the white part of a small leek, and cut one small onion into one- eighth inch squares; fry these colorless in two ounces of butter, add two ounces of bread-crumbs, frying it in with the onion, and also sixty oysters with their own juice and a quart and a half of fish broth. Set the saucepan over a quick fire, and stir vigorously to prevent the oysters from sticking to the bottom, then skim, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; when ready to serve thicken the soup with raw egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, the proportions for each quart being, two egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of butter. Stir in also, when serving, a little chopped parsley. (335). OYSTER SOUP, TRENCH STYLE (Soupe aux Huitres a la Trangaise), Cut two ounces of onions into eighth of an inch squares; fry them without coloring in some butter, and add sixty medium oysters with as much water as there is oyster juice; then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Place the saucepan on the fire, and remove again at the first boil, lay the oysters into a soup tureen and strain the broth through a fine sieve, returning it to the fire to add to it half a pint of bechamel (No. 409), and thicken it with egg-yolks, cream and butter, the pro- portions for each quart being, three raw egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of good butter. Make a garnishing of pike quenelles (No. 90), adding to it some cooked fine herbs; another garnishing may also be used, composed of round bread croutons, each one inch in diameter, sprinkled over with butter and browned in the oven; serve these separately, but at the same time as the soup. (336), OYSTEE SOUP WITH POWDEEED OKEA OE GUMBO (Soupe aux Huitres an Gombo en poudre). Mince a two ounce onion finely, fry it in two ounces of butter without letting it attain a color, then add sixty medium oysters with their juice, and the same quantity of water, season with salt and red pepper, then place the saucepan on a quick fire and remove at the first boil; skim and thicken with two spoonfuls of powdered gumbo for each quart of soup. Have some rice boiled in salted water; when done, mix in with it a little butter and set it in a buttered mold, place it in a hot oven for ten minutes and serve this separately, but at the same time as the soup, after unmolding it. (337), SOUP WITH OYSTEE RAVIOLES (Soupe aux Eavioles d'Huitres). Poach in white wine three or four dozen large oysters, drain them, and keep the broth; cut the oysters into small dice, and thicken this salpicon with three spoonfuls of pike forcemeat (No. 90), and as much reduced bechamel (No. 409). With this salpicon and some raviole paste (No. 147), rolled out very thin, prepare some small round ravioles, cutting them out with a pastry cutter one inch and a quarter in diameter. Put to boil on the side of the fire, three quarts of thickened fish stock (No. 195); add to this the oyster broth, and despumate the whole for twenty-five minutes; at the last moment remove all the fat, and thicken the soup with a thickening of four or five egg-yolks, cream, butter, season to taste with salt, and a pinch of cayenne. Pour the soup into a tureen, add to it the ravioles, previously cooked for twelve minutes in salted water. (338), PAETEIDGE SOUP A LA EOYALE (Potage de Perdreau a la Eoyale). Put to boil on the side of the fire, two quarts of thickened game stock (No. 195). Pound the meat taken from the breasts of two cooked and cold partridges; press them forcibly through a sieve, and put this pure"e into a bowl to dilute with seven or eight egg-yolks, and a few spoonful? of raw cream; season it to taste. Fill small buttered timbale molds (No. 2. Fig. 137) with this prep- aration, poach them (No. 152). Break up the partridge bones, add them to the soup, also a bunch of aromatic herbs, and some mushroom parings. Twenty minutes later skim off the fat, season and strain the soup through a tammy, and return it again to the saucepan; boil it up twice, and then stir in four spoonfuls of Madeira wine, meanwhile keeping it very hot. At the last moment unmotd the small poached timbales; put in the soup tureen, and gently pour the soup over them. SOUPS. 277 (339). ITALIAN OR GENOA PASTES; LASAGNE, LASAGNETTE, TAGLIABELLI, MAOOARONI, VERMICELLI, SPAGHETTI, PAILLETTES, MAOOARONOELLI, FLORENCE SNOW (Pate d'ltalie ou de Genes ; Lasagne, Lasagnette, Tagliarelli, Maccaroni, Vermicelli, Spaghetti, Paillettes, Maccaroncelli et Neige de Florence), All these various pastes are to be previously blanched by throwing them into boiling water for five or ten minutes according to their respective thickness. When blanched, drain them, and finish cooking in broth or consomme, the proportion being half a pound of paste to three or four quarts of liquid. Put the paste into a soup tureen and pour the soup over, serving at the same time on a separate plate, some grated parmesan cheese. Lasagne, Lasagnette and Tagliarelli. Blanch of these one half pound for five minutes, cook them in a quart of broth, and serve in a tureen with consomme. Maccaroni, Spaghetti, Vermicelli, Paillettes, Maccaroncelli. For the large macaroni, blanch half a pound for twelve minutes or less in proportion to their thickness, when done, drain, and cook them in a quart of broth. Serve in a soup tureen with consomme. Italian or Genoa Pastes and Vermicelli. Blanch half a pound of these for five minutes, drain and cook them in a quart of broth, serve in a soup tureen with consomme. Florence Snow. Florence snow is made of fine gluten paste, extremely white and distributed into very fine shavings. This paste does not require any cooking; range it on plates and pass it round to the guests, after serving the soup, when each one takes some if so desired. This paste dissolves as soon as it conies in contact with a hot liquid. (340). PATERSON SOUP (Potage a la Paterson). Put into a saucepan on the fire three quarts of broth, and when boiling, dredge into it five spoonfuls of tapioca; let it cook for twenty-five minutes, being careful to remove all the scum arising on the surface, then strain and keep it warm. Have a garnishing of timbales of puree of green peas made as follows: One pint of puree of green peas, into which mix one whole egg and four yolks, salt, sugar and nutmeg; pour this into buttered timbale molds (No. 3, Fig. 137), place the molds in a pan with water to half their height, and poach them in a slack oven, unmold and cut them in two crosswise; have also small three-eighths of an inch pearl quenelles (No. 154), also some mushrooms cut in three-sixteenth inch squares. (341). PILATJ, TURKISH STYLE (Pilau a la Turque), Put two knuckles of veal into a saucepan with eight quarts of broth, a few slices of raw ham, one chicken, and a roasted shoulder of lamb; boil up the liquid, skim, and add to it three carrots, two turnips, one celery stalk, six leeks, two onions, and two cloves; continue to boil slowly, till each one of the meats is done, then take them out as fast as cooked; strain the broth, remove all the fat, and clarify it, then reduce it one-quarter. Cut the chicken into small pieces, and put them into the soup; mince the shoulder of lamb, cut the ham into small dice, and after placing the knuckle of veal under a weight to get cool, cut it up into squares, and add all these to the soup, with some salt, red pepper, a slight infusion of saffron, and half a pound of blanched Sultana raisins. Parboil a quarter of a pound of rice for ten minutes in boiling, salted water, drain, and put it into three pints of boiling white broth; at the first boil, remove it from the fire, cover, and finish cooking in a cool oven for twenty-five minutes; when done, put it into the soup and serve. (342). POT-AU-FEU (Pot-au-feu). For Sixteen Persons. Have a soup-pot of enameled or lined cast-iron containing sixteen quarts of liquid; put into it a piece of boned, rolled and tied up, rump of beef weighing eight pounds and eight quarts of water or beef stock. Put the pot on the fire; heat it so as to bring the liquid to a boil, then skim it off carefully at the first boil, and set the pot back from the hot fire. Roast the bones taken from the meat, also one pound of knuckle of veal and some chicken giblets, add them to the soup, and leave it on one side or on a gas stove, watching it well to see that it boils slowly and continuously, on one side only, so as to obtain a very clear broth; let the meats cook for four or five hours, more or less according to their thickness and tenderness, and when the beef is Kalf done, strain slowly the liquid through a sieve without disturbing it. Remove the piece of run^ix, empty the pot, clean it well, and return to it the meat and the broth, after having partially removed 278 THE EPICUREAN. the fat, then put the saucepan back on the fire, and at the first boil mix to it a pound and a half of the white part of leeks tied together, a pound and a half of large carrots, three-quarters of a pound of turnips, half a pound of celery-knob or root, one medium onion with two cloves and one ounce of parsnips, then add one or two young chickens weighing three pounds each, trussed and browned in the oven. Continue to boil all very slowly, being careful to remove the chicken and meat as fast as they are done; also the vegetables, keeping them warm. Saw sixteen pieces from a marrow-bone each one inch long, wrap them up in separate pieces of linen, tie them, and poach them for eight minutes in the boiling broth. At the last moment salt and color the broth properly, and strain it through a silk sieve or a damp napkin, keeping it warm. Have two vegetable dishes of braised cabbage, the leeks, carrots, turnips, and celery arranged in clusters, and neatly trimmed so that every person may be able to help himself to one or the other as desired. Toast, or butter, and then color in the oven, thirty-two croutons of bread three-sixteenths of an inch thick, by one and a half inches in diameter, also have the sixteen pieces of prepared marrow. Pour the soup into the soup tureen, and send the vegetables to the table, separately, also the croutons and marrow. When serving the soup, put into each plate a piece of marrow bone, two croutons and some soup, and pass the dishes containing the vegetables around separate. The boiled beef can be served at the same time, dressing it on to a dish, and surrounding it with the chicken cut in pieces, and branches of parsley; serve at the same time a sauceboat of tomato sauce (No. 549). (343). EIOE SOUP A LA RUDINI (Potage an riz a la Kudini). Put a quarter of a pound of picked and washed rice into a saucepan, with two quarts of cold water, set it on the fire, and stir occasionally to prevent the rice from sticking to the bottom; let it boil up once, then refresh it, finish cooking it in consomme with a piece of fine butter, and a pinch of black pepper; mingle in with it when done, three ounces of grated parmesan cheese, four raw egg- yolks, and set it away to get cold. Divide this preparation into small five-eighth inch diameter balls ; a few moments before serving roll them on to a dish containing two beaten eggs, drain them and put them one by one into new frying fat not too hot, and let them assume a nice golden color; then drain them again, and dry them in a napkin. Have two quarts of thickened chicken broth (No. 195), bring it to a boil, and remove it from the fire. Place four egg-yolks in a bowl, dilute them with one gill of cold broth, add four ounces of fine butter divided in small pieces, pour slowly into this thickening a quarter of the stock while stirring continually; return it to the rest of the stock, working it in briskly with a whisk, season to taste; pass it through a fine sieve or tammy. Pour this into a soup tureen, and serve separate a garnishing of the rice balls, and a plateful of grated Parmesan cheese. (344). SHERMAN SOUP (Potage a la Sherman). Have a garnishing of stuffed cabbage leaves, prepared as follows: Blanch some cabbage leaves, drain and trim them nicely, then fill the insides with a quenelle and cooked fine herb force- meat (No. 89), roll them up and lay them one beside the other, cover them with bouillon and a sheet of buttered paper, cook in a slack oven for two hours, being careful to add some moistening when they become too reduced. Cut some carrots into three-eighth inch balls, blanch and cook them in broth ; prepare a pluche of chervil; chervil leaves free of stalks, thrown into boiling water for one minute, then drained. Cut the cooked cabbage in slices of a quarter of an inch leaves, lay them on a deep dish, and dust over some grated parmesan cheese, over this place some thin slices of buttered bread browned in the oven, then another layer of cabbage, cheese and bread; pour over some very fat broth, besprinkle grated parmesan on top, and bake in the oven. Pour some con- somme into a soup tureen, add the carrots and chervil, and serve the baked cabbage apart. (345), SHRIMP SOUP, MIGNON (Potage aux Orevettes Mignon). Keep boiling on the side of the fire one quart and a half of thickened fish stock (No. 195). Break off the tails from a hundred cooked red shrimps, pick the meat from the shells, trim them and pound the parings with one-third of the picked tails, selecting the smallest ones for this; also a piece of butter and four egg-yolks, then press all through a sieve; keep the puree in a cool place, also the remainder of the picked tails cut in small dice. Put into the boiling soup half of the pounded shells; with a smallest size root spoon, five-sixteenth of an inch, cut out some very small cooked truffle balls, and set these into another small saucepan; divide into two equal parts the value of four or five spoonfuls of raw fish quenelle forcemeat CM o. 90); into one mix some Breton SOUPS. 279 carmine, leaving the other half white ; place these two forcemeats separately into a paper cornet, and push them through on to a buttered baking sheet to form beads; poach them separately in salted water, drain and lay them in the soup tureen. From one quart of shelled green peas select one to two gills of the smallest and tenderest, and boil them in water; when drained, add them to the quenelles in the soup tureen. After the soup is well despumated, remove all its grease and strain it through a tammy; return it to a clean saucepan, let it boil, adding to it three spoonfuls of Madeira wine; two minutes later, thicken it with the shrimp puree and cook this thickening without letting it boil. Remove, and finish with a dash of cayenne pepper and a piece of red butter. Pour the soup into the tureen, add to it the shrimp tails, butter and truffles, and serve at once. (346). SMALL INDIVIDUAL SOUP-POTS (Petites Marmites Individuelles). There are two different ways of serving these. The first by making the soup in small soup-pots each one containing one-half a quart or more, diminishing the proportions of meat, vegetables and liquid, either of water or broth, after the proportions indicated in the pot-au-feu (No. 342). The second is to serve the pot-au-feu when it is ready, with the contents, dividing it into small individual pots, making an equal division of the meats, vegetables and liquid, into as many parts as there are half quarts of soup; and divide as well the meats, vegetables, and liquid into small two quart pots, having the meats and vegetables the same size as for the pint ones; for the one or the other use only half the beef meat well pared; the carrots, turnips, and celery cut into cylindricals, and divided into small parts, and each chicken into sixteen pieces; (Before using the small stone pots, they should be lined with the frag- ments of the chickens and vegetables, aromatics and spices, and cooked in the oven for twelve hours, pouring at intervals boiling water into them, so that they remain always full, then washed well out before using.) After the pots are filled, pour over the very hot broth, adding a table- spoonful of braised cabbage and the leeks divided, then boil the contents for a few minutes, and just when ready to serve, add for each pint four marrow bones sawed into inch thick pieces. Dress them over napkins on a plate. Each guest should have his individual soup-pot containing a little over a pint, and serve at the same time slices of toasted bread or bread buttered and browned in the oven, the size being three-sixteenths by one and one-half inches in diameter. (347). SOKEEL, SORREL WITH HERBS, AND SORREL FLEMISH STYLE (Oseille, Oseille aux Herbes et Oseille a la Flamande). Remove the stalks from a good handful of sorrel, mince it up fine, then fry it in two ounces of good butter, and moisten with two quarts of broth or water; season with salt and a dash of sugar, and let boil for fifteen minutes. Cut thin slices from some French rolls, butter them, and put them in the hot oven to brown; set them in the soup tureen and pour the soup over. Sorrel with Herbs. Sorrel soup may also be made by mincing fine a small handful of sorrel, half as much lettuce, and quarter as much chervil as lettuce. Melt and heat two ounces of butter in a saucepan, put in the herbs, fry them, and then moisten with two quarts and a half of broth or water, boil slowly for half an hour, and just before serving pour in gradually a thickening of four egg-yolks, a gill of cream, and one ounce of fine butter. A garnishing may be served of croutons dried in the oven, o'r some vermicelli. Flemish Style. For sorrel, Flemish style, prepare the soup as in the first article above; the only difference to observe is, that before putting in the sorrel, fry some leeks, onions, potatoes and artichoke bottoms, all minced up very fine; add the sorrel, and finish as for the above. Serve with a garnishing of rice cooked in white broth, and some green peas. (348). SPAGHETTI WITH CREAM (Spaghetti a la Creme). Melt four ounces of butter in a saucepan, adding two dessert spoonfuls of flour; cook the flour slowly, so as to make a blond roux, then dilute with two quarts of consomme, stir the liquid until it boils, move it aside at once, and continue to boil slowly and uninterruptedly for twenty-five minutes, strain through a fine strainer, and put it back into a clean saucepan. Cook in salted water, some spaghetti macaroni, drain it and cut it up in one inch length pieces, having about one 280 THE EPICUREAN. pound, and put this in with the consomme. Place in a bowl four raw egg-yolks, with two ounces of grated parmesan, dilute it with two gills of raw cream, and one ounce of butter; pour this thickening into the soup, and let heat without boiling; season, and serve it in a soup tureen. The spaghetti can be replaced by any of the Italian pastes. (349). SPANISH OILLA (Oilla a 1'Espagnole). Put to soak in tepid water for twelve hours, half a pound of chick peas (Garbanzos). Set in an earthen pot, or any other kind, six pounds of lean breast of beef, three pounds of leg of mut- ton cut near the knee bone, half a pound of unsmoked salt pork, cut in one piece and then blanched, and half a pound of smoked ham, well pared and blanched. Cover with water, add the garbonzos boil and skim, maintaining a slow ebullition. Two hours after, put in the broth, one fowl, two pai'tridges, a piece of squash weighing one pound, half a pound of carrots, half a pound of onions, a bunch of parsley with a bay leaf, and clove of garlic, and one pound of chorissos sausages (garlic sausage). Blanch twelve lettuce heads, also two cabbages cut in four. After removing the cores (the hard part), take out the meats as soon as they are severally done, cool them partially, and then cut them into half inch squares. Strain the broth through a napkin, pour it in a soup tureen with rice cooked in fat broth, and if the meats should not be added to the soup, serve them separately as a garnishing, by cutting them up in slices, and arranging them in a circle on a dish. The chicken in the center, a partridge on each side, the lettuces on one side, the chick peas on the other, the cabbages on the ends, and the sausages cut into slices and laid on top of the cabbage. A tomato sauce served separately, also a green sauce a Tespagnole (No. 473). (350). TERRAPIN, CLEAR, THICK OR WHITE (Terrapene au Olair, Lie~e ou a Blanc). Prepare and cook the terrapin as told in No. 1082, observing all the instructions given for the preparation of these turtles. For Clear Terrapin. When the terrapins are cooked, select the largest ones, bone them entirely, and cut up the pieces found to be too large, and being more than one inch; it will require one pound and a half. Prepare a stock the same as for clear turtle (No. 353), thicken with arrowroot or else fecula, when the stock is ready and nicely seasoned, add the terrapin to it, boil it up for a few minutes and finish the soup with some brandy and Madeira wine. Serve separately the pulp of two lemons, two hard boiled, chopped up eggs, and some chopped parsley, the whole on one or several plates, together or each article separate. For Thick Terrapin Sonp. Make it exactly the same as the clear terrapin, with the excep- tion of using the same stock as for thick green turtle soup (No. 353). For Terrapin Soup, White. Prepare it as for the above, only thickening it with veloute" (No. 415); diluting it with chicken broth (for lean use lean veloute and fish broth). Boil, skim, season properly, then add when ready to serve, some raw egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, the propor tions being two raw egg-yolks, one gill of cream and two ounces of fine butter for each quart. (351). DRIED TURTLE, THICK A.ND CLEAR (Tortue Seche Lie"e et Claire). Dry. This green turtle comes from South America; it is raw and dried in pieces; the only parts being used for drying are the cutaneous ones. When the dried turtle is needed put it first to soak in cold water for two or three days, changing the water frequently. Half a pound of dry turtle suffices to make soup for eight persons; when the pieces have softened, put them into a small stock-pot with six quarts of water, adding to it a piece of shin of beef, weighing two pounds; a two pound piece of neck of veal, a three pound chicken, two or three chicken giblets, a bone of cooked ham, carrots, celery, a bunch of marjoram, savory, parsley, thyme, and bay leaf. Cook the meats the same as for a pot-a-feu (No. 342), either on the gas, or on the back of the range, and as soon as the pieces of turtle are done, remove them and plunge them into cold water; then cut them into one inch and a quarter squares, and lay them in a saucepan with a little consomme; skim off the fat from the soup, strain, and set about two quarts of it into a saucepan; thicken it with blond roux (No. 163), despumate the soup while allowing it to boil slowly, remove all the fat, and season with salt and cayenne pepper, also two gills of good Madeira wine. Put the pieces of turtle into a soup tureen, and pour the soup over. Should the turtle be needed clear, then sup- press the roux, clarify the broth, and thicken it with arrowroot or potato fecula. Serve slices of lemon at the same time. SOUPS. 281 (352.) PREPARATION OF A GREEN TURTLE WEIGHING ONE HUNDRED POUNDS (Prepara- tion d'une Tortue pesant cent livres). Lay the turtle on its back, and when it stretches out his head, seize it with one hand, and holding a knife in the other, cut its neck, leave it to bleed, then lay it again on its back, pass the knife along the flat shell, about one inch from the edge. Detach the flat shell and remove all the meat from the inside, doing exactly the same for the back, then saw them into six or eight pieces, plunge them into boiling water to remove the scales, doing the same for the four fins. Put the turtle meat into a soup pot with two knuckles of veal, moisten it with broth, let boil, then skim and add sprigs of parsley, celery, sage, marjoram, basil, thyme, bay leaf, mace, cloves, whole peppers and salt, cook for one hour, add the pieces of shell and fins and let boil again until all are cooked, then take them out and put them into cold water. Remove the gelatinous parts of the turtle, cut them into one and a half inch squares, strain the broth through a fine sieve and reduce it to a half glaze, add the green parts and let boil very slowly until the turtle be thoroughly cooked and the stock well reduced. If wanted for further use pour it into tin boxes, surround them with ice, and when perfectly cold cover the tops with hot fat and lay them aside in the ice box. (353). GREEN TURTLE SOUP, CLEAR 1 LA ROYAL OR THICK WITH MARROW QUENELLES (Soupe Tortue Verte, Claire a la Royale on liee aux Quenelles a la Moelle). Clear. Put eight quarts of beef stock into a soup-pot with four pounds of leg of veal, and four pounds of fowl or chicken wings, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, basil, marjoram, mushroom trim- mings, and celery; boil all for three hours, then strain through a sieve, and afterward through a napkin. Clarify this stock the same as consomme with chopped beef. Cook separately the pre- pared turtle, and keep it warm in a steamer (bain-marie); add to the soup a dessertspoonful of arrowroot for each quart, diluted with a little water, and add it to the boiling broth, stirring it in with a whip; boil and despumate the soup for twenty minutes, then season. "When ready to serve, drain the turtle, lay it in a soup tureen, and pour over the stock, seasoning with cayenne pepper and half a gill of Xeres for each quart. For Clear Turtle a la Royal. Add some royale timbales (No. 241). Thick Turtle with Marrow Quenelles. Proceed exactly the same as for clear turtle, but in- stead of thickening it with arrowroot, thicken the soup with a little brown roux, moistened with the turtle stock, boil and despumate, and strain through a fine sieve Garnish with marrow quenelles (No. 252), or if preferred, use turtle fat instead of marrow. Quenelles may also be made with a quarter of a pound of hard boiled egg-yolks pounded with one ounce of butter and four raw egg- yolks, seasoning with salt, nutmeg, and chopped parsley; divide this into pieces, roll them into balls half an inch in diameter, and poach them in boiling water; drain, and serve with the soup. (354). MOCK TURTLE OR CALF'S HEAD, CLEAR SOUP (Soupe Fausse Tortue on Tete de Veau an Clair). Bone a calf's head the same as described for plain calfs head (No. 1519); put it into cold water in a saucepan on the fire, boil up the liquid and let it continue boiling for half an hour, then drain, refresh and singe it. Butter the bottom of a saucepan, cover it with slices of ham, a carrot and some onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with sage, chives, thyme and bay leaf. Split the bones taken from the head, lay them on this bed of vegetables and add two pounds of knuckle of veal, and a pound and a half of chicken, or else some chicken thighs, either of these being partially roasted ; moisten with a quart of water, and let boil on a moderate fire until the liquid is reduced and fallen to a glaze, and the vegetables slightly colored. Moisten again with six quarts or either broth or water, add the blanched calf's head, boil up the liquid again, then skim and throw in one onion with a clove in it, a little mace and a quarter of a pound of mushroom trimmings; continue to boil slowly and when the head is cooked, remove it from the stock, cover it over with broth, and leave it till cold. Now cut away the white skin near the snout, divide the meat into equal sized half inch square pieces, taking only the cutaneous parts. Remove the chicken when done, season the stock, skim off the iat and strain it through a sieve, clarify it with two pounds of chopped beef and one whole egg, proceeding the same as for a consomme. Strain the liquid through a napkin or a silk sieve, and thicken it with a spoonful of fecula for each quart, diluting the fecula with half a gill of sherry and a little water, and then pouring it into the soup, stirring it vigorously until all is well mixed, then return it to the fire and stir again until it boils. Pound the meat from the chickens free of all fat, bones and skin, add to them when well pounded, four hard boiled egg-yolks, salt, nutmeg and four raw egg- m THE EPICUREAN. yolks, rubbing all through a sieve, mix in some chopped parsley and with this preparation make some small half inch diameter quenelles; poach them in boiling and salted water, drain and put them into a saucepan with the pieces of calf's head, moisten with the stock, boil and skim, then add half a gill of Madeira or extra sherrry wine for each quart of soup, and the juice of half a lemon for each quart; pour it into a soup tureen and serve very hot. (355). MOCK TUETLE SOUP, THICKENED (Soupe Fausse tortue Liee). It needs one gallon of soup for twelve persons. Proceed exactly the same as for the clear mock turtle only leaving out the fecula thickening. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan on a slow fire, and when melted, mix in with it a quarter of a pound of flour, cook it slowly to obtain a blond roux, which then moisten with clear turtle stock, until it becomes the consistency of a light sauce, cook it slowly and keep despumating it for half an hour, then strain it through a sieve or tammy, and return it to the fire in a very clean saucepan, and after bringing the liquid up to a boil, despumate it again. Add the quenelles, the calf's head cut in pieces, and the pulp of a lemon without any peel or pips, also half a gill of sherry wine for each quart of soup. (356). VELVET SOUP (Potage Velours). Mince up fine the red part of a few good carrots; stew them with butter, salt, sugar and a little broth, and when done strain through a sieve and afterward through a tammy (Fig. 88). Put two quarts of good clear broth on to boil, mix in with it four tablespoonfuls of tapioca, let it despumate for twenty-five minutes on the side of the fire, skimming it off well. At the last moment add the carrot puree, season boil up once or twice more, and serve in a soup tureen. (357). WESTMOEELAND SOUP (Potage a la Westmoreland). For sixteen persons. Prepare two quarts of reduced and well-seasoned chicken consomme (No. 190); boil it, then thicken it with arrowroot, colored with a little roucou (Annotto); dilute the arrowroot and roucou in cold water, and add it slowly with the soup, stirring it in continually with a whip or spoon; then boil and skim. Prepare three-quarters of a pound of cooked calf's head the gelatinous, cutaneous parts, free of all fat and meat, press to three-eighths of an inch, cut this into three-eighth inch squares, and keep them warm in a quart of consomme. Have half a pound of round chicken quenelles (No. 154), half an inch in diameter laid through a bag on to a buttered tin pan, and poached in boiling salted water, and add them to the calf s head. Braised sweetbreads set under a weight, having half a pound in all, and pressed down to three-eighths of an inch in thickness, then cut in squares when cold, and put them to keep hot with the quenelles and calf's head; have also some celery cut in quarter inch squares, blanched and cooked in consomme, a quarter of a pound in all, and when done, add them to the other garnishings. Just when about serving, taste the soup, season it accordingly, and pour it over the garnishings in a soup tureen. (358). NOQUES OE QUENEFES SOUP (Potage aux Noques et aux Quenefes). Melt in a saucepan three ounces of butter, dredge in the same weight of flour and stir this over a moderate fire so as to obtain a light roux (No. 163); moisten with two quarts of broth, and stir again until it boils slowly and on one side only; despumate the soup by removing all the scum and fat arising to the surface. Noques. Beat up with a spoon five ounces of partially melted butter placed in a bowl, and when it is creamed, then incorporate into it three egg-yolks and one whole egg; as the compound becomes frothy, add to it four ounces of flour and two beaten egg-whites, season with salt and nutmeg, and try the preparation by taking up a teaspoonful and letting it fall, detaching it with another teaspoon, into boiling, salted water, and if it be too light and requires more consistency, then add a little more flour mixed with a little hot water, but if it be too consistent, then more butter is needed. Keep the noques in boiling water without letting them boil until they are well poached and firm, then drain, and range them in a soup tureen; remove the fat once more from the soup and thicken it with four egg-yolks and two gills of cream and a little butter; pour it over the noques after straining it through a fine sieve. Quenefes. Put into a bowl four yolks and two whole eggs, salt, and nutmeg; mix well, then add six ounces of flour, and to test whether the paste is sufficiently thick, take up some of it in a teaspoon, detach it with another spoon moistened with hot water, and let it drop into boiling water to cook for half an hour without boiling. Drain and use these quenefes instead of noques for the above soup. SOTTPS. J>83 (359). EAVIOLE AND PEAEL SOUP (Potage aux Eavioles et aux Perles). Place four quarts of good consomme" into a saucepan, and after it boils skim it well. Blanch in boiling water for five minutes, two ounces of Nizam pearls, drain, and add them to the boiling consomme; cook until they become transparent, which will take about twenty minutes, pour the soup into the soup tureen, adding some poached ravioles (No. 158), arid serve at the same time a plateful of grated parmesan cheese. (360). WOODCOCK SOUP (Potage de Becasses). Remove the four fillets from two cold roasted woodcocks; pound two of these fillets with the livers and a few slices of cooked foies-gras; press through a sieve, and put this puree into a mor- tar, mixing in with it a third of its quantity of raw game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91); two whole eggs, a pinch of nutmeg, and half a gill of cold espagnole sauce. Poach this preparation in small buttered timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137). Despumate on the side of the fire, two quarts of game stock (No. 195), add to it the carcasses, necks, and heads of the woodcocks, all chopped up and a few aromatic herbs and twenty minutes later, skim off the- fat, strain it through a tammy, and put it back into a clean saucepan, to heat, stirring it with a spatula continually to prevent the soup adhering to the bottom of the pan, finish by incorporating into it a small piece of butter, having previously removed the soup from the fire. Pour the soup into a tureen, adding the two breasts kept aside, mincing them up in Julienne, also the poached timbales. SOUPS AND DIFFERENT PEEPAEATIONS FOR INVALIDS, (36D. INDIAN AEEOWEOOT (Arrowroot de 1'Inde). Prepare a plain chicken broth as indicated in No. 188; for each quart of this dilute a table- spoonful of arrowroot with a little of the cold broth, so as to form a smooth and liquid paste, add to it gradually the boiling broth, then boil all, stirring unceasingly with a spatula. After the first boil, simmer it gently for half an hour, carefully stirring it at times to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pan; then serve. (362). BAVAEOISE (Bavaroise), An infusion of tea sweetened with gum syrup and orange flower-water with milk. Have half as much boiling milk as tea; sweeten it with gum syrup, and flavor with orange flower- water; the latter can be replaced by a small glassful of good brandy. Bavaroise is taken at night before retiring. (363). CHICKEN BEOTH PLAIN (Bouillon de Poulet Simple). Chop up three pounds of chicken carcasses; put them in a saucepan with two quarts and a half of water, and a little salt; boil, then skim, add a well washed lettuce head, and half an ounce of chervil. Let boil for an hour and a half, remove all the fat and pass through a fine sieve; serve in cups. This preparation should produce about a quart of liquid. (364). CHICKEN AND MUTTON BEOTH WITH BAELEY (Bouillon de Poulet et Mouton a 1'Orge). Break up three pounds of chicken carcasses and place them in a saucepan with a pound of lean mutton cut in squares and an ounce of pearl hulled barley washed in several waters, half a pound of minced and blanched turnips; moisten with three quarts of water, boil, skim, and reboil all gently for three hours; skim again, season and strain through a fine sieve; serve in cups. (365). CHICKEN AND VEAL BEOTH (Bouillon de Poulet et de Yean). Place in a saucepan a pound and a half of broken up chicken carcasses and as much lean veal cut up in half inch squares; add three quarts of water, two ounces of carrots and an ounce of cut up turnips, both blanched in plenty of water and besides these two ounces of celery. Boil the whole for an hour and a half, skim off the fat, season with a little salt and strain through a fine sieve; serve in cups. 284 THE EPICUREAN. (366). OLAM BEOTH AND PUEEE (Bouillon de Lucines Oranges et Pure"e Put one pint of clams into a saucepan with their own juice and a little water; cover the sauce- pan and set it on the fire, removing it after the first boil, then drain, and strain the liquor through either a fine sieve or else a napkin; serve it in cups. The clam puree to be prepared as follows: Pound the clams; after they are reduced to a paste, then moisten them with their own liquor, and as much water, and strain through a sieve. For either plain broth or puree, a little milk and butter may be added. (367). OUSTAED OEEAM OF OHIOZEN OE GAME (Oreme Bain-Marie de Volaille ou de Gibier), Cut either a three pound chicken, or two grouse, or two partridges into four parts, remove the lights and kidneys, wash well and cook them in two quarts of water seasoned with salt, a few parsley stalks, half an ounce of chervil, six ounces of turnips, and four ounces of minced celery; boil, skim, and let simmer until the chicken or game be cooked, then strain the broth through a napkin. With twelve raw egg-yolks mix one quart of this broth, adding a very little at the time, and strain through a sieve; fill up some small cups to an eighth of an inch from the top; place these cups in a low saucepan with boiling water sufficient to reach to half their heighth, then set them on the fire and as soon as the water is ready to boil, push the saucepan into the oven; when firm to the touch, remove them, and serve them either hot or cold as required. (368). PLAIN EXTEAOT OF BEEF (Extrait de Bo3uf Simple). Chop up very fine one pound of lean beef, put it into a saucepan and dilute it gradually with three pints of cold bouillon (No. 187); set it on a slow fire, and stir until it comes to a boil, then place it on the back of the stove where it will not boil, leave it there for half an hour, and strain it through a fine sieve or napkin. (369). EXTEAOT OF BEEF, CLAEIFLED (Extrait de Boeuf Clarine"), Remove the fat and nerves from five pounds of lean beef, either from the leg or rump, chop it up very fine and divide it equally into three empty and well washed champagne bottles, adding to each bottle, one gill of broth or water, or not any should a more concentrated extract be desired; cork and tie them well. Place these bottles in a high bain-marie, wrapping each bottle up in a cloth, and fill to five-sixths of their heighth with water; boil continually for two hours, and leave the bottles in the water one half hour after removing the saucepan from the fire, then uncork carefully. Fold two sheets of filtering paper together, lay them in a glass funnel and set these over high gallon glass jars, pour the liquid slowly through the paper and when all is strained, fill a well washed and clean champagne bottle with it; cork it up, letting the liquid reach nearly as far up as the cork, and put it on ice to keep. (370). FISH BEOTH "WITH OLAMS (Bouillon de Poisson aux Lucines Oranges). Heat two ounces of butter in a saucepan, add to it two ounces of minced onions, an ounce of carrots, two ounces of turnips and two leeks. Fry colorless, then put in two pounds of the heads and bones of fish and moisten it to its height with water, adding an ounce of celery, one tomato, a little thyme, bay leaf, parsley and salt. Cover and cook for twenty-five minutes, then strain through a sieve, return it once more to the saucepan adding a quart of clams and their juice; boil, strain again through a fine sieve, taste and serve in cups. (371). FEOG BEOTH AND PUEEE (Bouillon de GrenouiUes et Pure~e de Grenouilles). Mince half a pound of celery, carrots, turnips, and leeks; fry them without letting them acquire a color in two ounces of butter, then moisten with two quarts of chicken broth or water, and add a pound of frog's legs and hind parts, half an ounce of chervil, and two ounces of lettuce, both cut very fine. Boil all slowly for three quarters of an hour, season with a little salt and sugar, then strain through a napkin and serve in cups. For the Puree, pound the frog meat and add to it four ounces of bread-crumbs soaked in milk and then squeezed out. When all is well pounded, dilute with the same quantity of broth as above, and strain through a tammy; a little butter and milk may be added to advantage; this pure'e should be served in a clear state in cups. SOUP'S. 285 (372). HERB BROTH (Bouillon aux Herbes). Four ounces of lettuce, one ounce of chervil, one and a half ounces of sorrel, all well washed, and cut up fine. Put these into a saucepan on the fire, with a little butter, stirring occasionally; when lightly cooked moisten with two quarts of white chicken broth (No. 188), or its equal volume of water. Let cook for fifteen minutes, adding one and a half ounces of butter and a little salt. Serve this in cups, either plain or with sippets of toasted bread or else with rice, semolina, etc. (373), CHICKEN AND CALF'S FOOT JELLY (Gel&de Volaille et de Piedsde Vean). Bone six calves' feet, blanch, and refresh them in cold water; put them in a saucepan with six pounds of round bottom of veal, four large fowls, afu coyer the bottom of the dish with a little consomme (No. 189), unmold and dress them in a circle. Serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with game fumet (No. 397), having prepared it with the woodcock parings. (919). MOUSSELINE OF YOUNG BABBIT (Mousseline de Lapereau). Pound three-quarters of a pound of the fillet meat taken from a raw young rabbit, rub it through a sieve, and return it to the mortar to mix in six egg-yolks, one by one, and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter divided in pieces. Put this preparation into a thin iron vessel and heat it up for ten minutes incorporating into it slowly a quart and a half in volume of unsweetened whip- ped cream. Butter and decorate the mousseline molds (No. 2, Fig. 138) with truffles; fill them with the preparation and poach in a bain-marie in a very slack oven. After removing the mousseline from the oven, let it rest two minutes before unmolding on a hot dish containing a little consomme (No. 189). Serve separately some good veloute sauce (No. 415), reduced with the fumet of young rabbit (No. 397). (920). PALMETTES (Palmettes). Palmettes are molded in bottomless molds, made of tin bands three-eighths of an inch in height, and heart-shape, from three to three and a half inches on the longest side by two and a half on its widest, and being three inches long in the center of the heart. These molds are to be buttered and laid on sheets of very strong paper, cut three inches by four, and buttered on one side; place the molds on this buttered side and fill them with a mousseline force-meat (No. 86), made either of fish, chicken or game, to which has been added various salpicons. Instead of the mousseline force- meat, a quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and a cream forcemeat (No. 74) (an equal quantity of each), may be substituted. The palmettes should only be slightly poached, hav- ing them of a sufficient consistency to allow them to be bread-crumbed without breaking; they must first be dipped in eggs and then in bread-crumbs, and fried in YIQ. 231. white and very hot fat; when a fine color they are to be dressed crown-shaped, and garnished with small frill favors (No. 10). The pointed ends of these trimmed handles are inserted into the point ends of the palmettes. Serve at the same time as the palmettes, but separately, a light sauce. (921). JUNOT PALMETTES (Palmettes a la Junot). Prepare a plover or woodcock mousseline (No. 87), adding to it some finely minced mush- rooms and veloute sauce (No. 415); fill the molds, poach, and finish them exactly the same as for (No. 920); fry them in clarified butter, dress them crown shaped on a napkin and garnish with favor frills (No. 10). Serve separately a salmis sauce (No. 536), with some truffles cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares. (922). PEEIEE PALMETTES (Palmettes a la Perier). Mix half pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) with half chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), and garnish the centers of the palmettes with a salpicon of shrimps mingled with a well buttered bechamel (No. 409) cover with more forcemeat, then poach, bread-crumb and fry them in clarified butter. Fill with chicken forcemeat some dome-shaped molds an inch and a quarter in diameter, previously buttered and decorated with truffles; poach, unmold and lay them on the widest part of the palmettes; garnish with a favor frill (No. 10), and serve with a separate sauce-boat of a buttered half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with chopped mushrooms and truffles added. (923). PEIMATIOE PALMETTES (Palmettes k la Primatice). Fill some palmette molds with a doe-bird or plover quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) finished with an espagnole sauce (No. 414) and game fumet (No. 397): add to it some chopped truffles, and poach the forcemeat in a moderate oven; unmold, and dip the palmettes into eggs, and roll them in bread- crumbs mixed with finely chopped ham, fry them in clarified butter till a fine color. Then drain and dress them, garnishing with favor frills (No. 10). Serve separately a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with tongue, mushrooms, and truffles, cut into very small squares, added to it. 386 THE EPICUREAN. (924). VAESOVIAN PALMETTES (Palmettes a la Varsovienne). To be made with a chicken mousseline forcemeat (No. 86), mixed with a salpicon of truffles, tongue, and mushrooms, cut in eighth of an inch squares, having two ounces of each for every pound of forcemeat; fill the molds, poach, unmold, and bread-crumb them, then fry in clarified butter. Garnish with favor frills (No. 10), range them on a napkin, and send to the table with a sauce boat of veloute sauce (No. 415), with raw fine herbs added. (925), PALMETTES OF FAT LIVEES DELMONTES (Palmettes de Foies-Gras a la Delmontes). Pound well together half a pound of game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), a quarter of a pound of foies-gras, and half a pound of cream forcemeat (No. 75). Butter some palmette molds, fill them with this preparation, poach, unmold, then bread-crumb, and fry them nicely; dress them on folded napkins, garnish each one with a favor frill (No. 10) and serve with a separate sauce-boat of sherry or Madeira sauce (No. 492), with truffles and lean ham, both cut in eighth of an inch squares, added. (926), PALMETTES OF GUINEA FOWL AND WILD DUCK, PALADIO (Palmettes de Pintade ou de Canard Sauvage k la Paladio). Make a game mousseline forcemeat with Guinea fowl, and as much redhead duck (No. 87), mixing in some cooked fine herbs; fill the molds, poach, unmold, bread-crumb and fry them exactly the same as for No. 920. Dress them crown-shaped and serve separately a Parisian tomato sauce (No. 550), strained through a very fine sieve, trimming the palmettes with favor frills (No. 10). (927). PALMETTES OF HAM A L'AQUITAINE (Palmettes de Jambon a 1'Aquitaine). Make with ham mousseline (No. 911), and finish the same as for No. 920, only frying the palmettes in oil. Infuse a small stick of cinnamon in Madeira wine, reduce it with half-glaze sauce (No. 413), strain, and add mushrooms, truffles, and beef palate all cut in small two-six- teenth inch squares; serve this separately. (928). PALMETTES OF HAEE AND YOUNG KABBIT, POLISH (Palmettes de Lievre ou deLapereau a la Polonaise) Have a mousseline forcemeat made with hare or young rabbit (No. 87), adding to it truffles and mushrooms cut in eighth of an inch squares; fill the molds, poach, unmold, egg and bread- crumb, then fry them a fine color in clarified butter. Garnish with favor frills (No. 10), and serve on napkins. A veloute sauce (No. 415) with essence of mushrooms (No. 392) to be served separately. (929). PALMETTES OF PHEASANTS A LA TOKEENS (Palmettes de Faisans a la Torrens). Have ready a game mousseline forcemeat (No. 87) prepared with pheasant's meat; add to it some finely shred, cooked lean ham, and fill the molds with this, poach, unmold and fry the palmettes the same as for No. 920. Serve with a hunter's sauce (No. 480) separate, after decorating with favor frills (No. 10). (930). PALMETTES OF PULLET OE CAPON, CLINTON (Palmettes de Poularde ou de Chapon a la Clinton). Prepare the palmette molds as indicated in No. 920; fill them only half full, and in the center place a foies-gras puree made from some Strasburg pate of foies-gras pressed through a sieve; finish filling the molds, poach, unmold, bread-crumb and fry them in clarified butter; trim with favor frills (No. 10), and serve with a separate sauce-boatful of white Colbert sauce (No. 451) with chopped truffles. (931). PALMETTES OF QUAILS OE PAETEIDGES, AFEIOAN (Palmettes de Oailles ou de Perdreaux a rAfricaine). Have ready some heart-shaped molds as already described in No. 920; fill them with a quail or partridge mousseline forcemeat (No. 87), with a quarter of its quantity of foies-gras cut in one- eighth inch squares; poach them very slightly, just sufficient to allow them to be bread-crumbed SIDE DISHES. 387 after dipping in eggs, and fry them to a fine color; trim with favor frills (No. 10); serve them crown-shaped on a folded napkin, and send to the table with a separate sauce-boat of African sauce (No. 424_). (932). PALMETTES OP SNIPE WITH TEUFFLES A LA OSBORN (Palmettes de B&assines aux Trufies a la Osborn). Have half a pound of snipe or game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), diluted with two gills of cspagnole (No. 414); let it get cold on the ice, and beat into it the value of a pint of whipped cream, adding two ounces of truffles cut into one-eighth inch squares. Fill the molds described in article No. 920, poach, unmold, egg and bread-crumb the palmettes, then fry them a fine color, drain, dress and trim with favor frills (No. 10). Serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with a snipe fumet sauce (No. 397) with chopped truffles added. (933). PALMETTES OF TURKEY A LA BEARNAISE (Palmettes de Dindeala Be"arnaise). Mix with a cream and turkey forcemeat (No. 75), a quarter of its quantity of soubise (No. 723), fill the palmette molds with this, laying slices of foies-gras in the center, poaoh, and finish them exactly the same as described in No. 920, serve separately a bearnaise sauce (No. 433). (934). PATTIES A L'ANDALOUSE (Bouchers a 1'Andalouse). Prepare puff paste bouchees as already explained in the Elementary Methods (No. 11). Cook them only shortly before they are needed, so as not to be obliged to heat them over again, and when done, remove the covers and empty out the insides, fill these with a salpicon of cooked, smoked ham, artichoke bottoms, chicken quenelles, and mush- rooms, ail cut into three-sixteenths of an inch squares, and mingled with Marsala wine sauce (No. 492). Dress them pyramidically on a napkin and serve. (935), CRAWFISH, CRAB, OYSTER CRAB, SHRIMP OR LOBSTER PATTIES (Bouche'es d'Ecrevisses, de Orabes, de Crabes d'Huitres, de Orevettes ou de Homard). FIG. 232. Make a dozen small puff paste patties the same as for No. 934. Cut a salpicon of cooked crawfish tails; put itintoabowl and mix in half as many cooked mushrooms, both being cut into three-sixteenths of an inch squares. Set on the fire to reduce a few spoonfuls of veloute" (No. 415), incorporating slowly into it the mushroom liquor, and a few spoonfuls of the broth the craw- fish tails were cooked in, finishing with a piece of lobster butter (No. 580), thicken the salpicon with this sauce, and use it to fill the patties; cover them with their own lids, and dress on folded napkins. By following this method cooked and firm fish meat can be used for filling bouchees, besides crabs, oyster crabs, lobsters, or shrimps, etc. (936). PUREE OF GAME PATTIES (Bouche'es de Purge de Gibier). Prepare them exactly as for a 1'Andalouse (No. 934), put into a saucepan some game puree (No. 716), either of snipe, partridge, quail, pheasant or young rabbit; heat it without boiling over a slow fire, incorporating into it a few spoonsfuls of half-glaze (No. 400); season, finish with a small piece of fine butter, garnish the patties, dress and serve very hot. ^937). FRESH MUSHROOM PATTIES (Bouche'es de Champignons Frais). Cut some raw fresh mushrooms in squares, fry them in butter, and add to them some cream and bechamel sauce (No. 409), thickened with egg-yolks, and fresh butter, add some chopped parsley. Finish exactly the same as for No. 934. (938). PATTIES A LA REINE (Bouche'es a la Reine). Pound well half a pound of white meat taken from the breast of a cooked chicken, using the same quantity of rice; press through a sieve, and set the puree into a saucepan to heat without boiling, incorporating into it one ounce of fine butter, and season with a little salt; if it should be too thick, add some cream. The chicken puree may be replaced by a small salpicon of white chicken meat cut in eighth of an inch squares, and added to a veloute" sauce (No. 415) reduced with cream. Instead of using the puff paste lid, lay on top a round piece of truffle, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and an eighth of an inch in thickness, glazed with a little meat glaze (No. 402). 388 THE EPICUREAN. (939). SCOLLOP, OYSTEK, CLAM, OE MUSSEL PATTIES (Bouche"es de Potencies, d'Hmtres, Luci- nes ou Monies). Blanch oysters or clams in their own juice. Cook mussels in white wine with pepper and a tew drops of vinegar; scollops in a little white wine. Drain and cut either of these into quarter inch squares, fry them in some butter on a hot fire, and cover with a veloute sauce (No. 415) thickening the sauce with egg-yolks, and fresh butter. Fill the patties and serve them very hot. (940). SWEETBREAD PATTIES, FEENOH STYLE Vouchees de Eis de Veau a la Fran- yaise). Soak and blanch some sweetbreads in hot water, then refresh and let get cold before cutting ihem up into thin slices; season, cook or fry on both sides in oil, without browning, then press to a quarter inch thick when cool, and cut them into small quarter inch dice. Lay this salpicon in a small saucepan, and add to it half its quantity of cooked mushrooms, and a quarter as much salted but unsmoked red beef tongue cut the same size, dilute this salpicon with a sauce made of broth (No. 194a), and fecula which has previously been diluted with cold broth; let simmer for a few moments, season and use it to fill some puff paste bouchees made with beef suet instead of butter (No. 146); range and dress them pyramidically on folded napkins, heating them for a few seconds at the oven door before sending to the table. (941). TUEBIGO PATTIES (Bouchees Turbigo). These are made with three-sixteenths of an inch dice of duck's livers, truffles and artichoke bottoms, mixed with a tomato puree (No. 730), pressed through a very fine sieve, adding the same quantity of well reduced veloute sauce (No. 415). Heat well and thicken with egg-yolks and cream; fill the patties with this garnishing, and replace the covers by a small half inch ball of foies-gras taken from the terrine and passed through a fine sieve, dipped in eggs, bread-crumbed and fried. (942). VIOTOEIA PATTIES (Bouchees a la Victoria). Cut in three-sixteenths inch dice, some lobster meat and truffles; cover them with a lobster sauce (No. 488), adding a dash of cayenne pepper, heat well without boiling, and fill the prepared patties (No. 934). Range them on folded napkins and serve hot. (943). SALPIOON OF FOIES-GEAS, MONTGLAS, EEGENOE, EOYAL PATTIES (Bouchers de Salpicon de Foies-gras, Montglas, Ee"gence, Eoyale). Either of foies-gras salpicon (No. 743), montglas (No. 747), regence (No. 750), or royal (No. 751). After the patties (No. 934) are cooked, remove the covers, empty the insides, and fill with either of the above salpicons. Dress them very hot on napkins, and serve at once. (944). PUFF PASTE PATTIES OF VEAL GODIVEAU WITH CHIVES, CEACOVIAN, MAZAEIN OE ST. HUBEET (Petits Pate's Feuillete"s de Godireau, aux Ciboulettes Oracovienne, Mazarin ou St. Hubert). Small patties are frequently served as a hot hors-d'oeuvre; they should be cooked only while the oysters are being eaten, so to have them ready to send to the table after the soup. Small Patties of Veal Godiveau. Roll out thin some fragments of puff paste; remove from it round pieces two and a half inches in diameter, turn them over on to a baking sheet slightly wetted with water, using a brush for the purpose, and lay in the center of each a veal godiveau (No. 85) ball, one inch and a quarter in diameter. Moisten the paste around the godiveau with a brush slightly wetted with water, and place on top another puff paste round, three-sixteenths of FIG. 233. an inch in thickness-, turn them over, and fasten the two edges together. Mark some lines on the top of the paste with the back of the pastry cutter an inch and a half in diameter, egg the surfaces twice, and cook them in a brisk oven for fifteen minutes. Small Patties of Godiveau with Chives. Fill the patties with some veal godiveau (No. 85), to which has been mixed some chopped chives and parsley. Small Patties of Godiveau Cracovian are made with pike godiveau (No. 83), and cooked fine herbs, and garnished and finished like patties of godiveau of veal. SIDE DISHES. 380 Small Patties Mazarin. Take chicken godiveau (No. 82) and mix with it truffles, tongue and mushrooms cut in eighth of an inch squares, also some raw fine herbs; finish the same as for the veal godiveau (No. 85). Small Patties a la St. Hubert, are to be made with game godiveau (No. 84), mixing in with it truffles, mushrooms, tongue cut in squares and some glaze (No. 402), and finishing exactly the same as the veal godiveau (No. 85). (945). PUFP PASTE SALMON PATTIES-SMALL (Petits Pate's leuffletfe de Saumon). Prepare a fish forcemeat (No. 83) with salmon meat, and a third part of pike; after being pressed through a sieve, put it in a bowl, and render it smooth, mixing in with it two or three spoonfuls of chopped up cooked truffles and a small piece of anchovy butter (No. 569). With this prenaration and some puff paste make about fifteen small patties the same as described in No. 934, egg the surfaces and cook them in a good oven; when done remove them from the baking sheet and serve on folded napkins. (946). GOLDEN BUCK, WELSH EAEEBIT A LA CUTTING OK YOEKSHIEE (Golden Buck, Welsh Earebit & la Cutting ou Yorkshire). Golden Buck. Cut some best quality American cheese; not too fresh, into five-eighths of an inch squares, put these into a sauteing pan with half a gill of beer, and a pinch of red pepper, place the pan on a hot fire, and stir well the mixture with a small wire whisk until the cheese is melted and flowing. Lay on a serving dish two slices of toasted bread, each three and a half inches wide, and three-eighths of an inch thick; cut them slanting into four parts so as to obtain four triangles, then lay them together again to form the original square, and pour over the melted cheese; on each of the triangles place a well drained poached egg, and serve immediately. Welsh Rarebit. Is made exactly the same as the golden buck, suppressing the poached eggs. Welsh Rarebit a la Cutting. Use exactly the same preparation as the ordinary Welsh rarebit, only the cheese to be a little thinner, and add to it just when ready to serve a well beaten egg, stirring it thoroughly with the cheese, but at the same time watch well that it does not boil; pour this preparation on to the prepared toasts. Yorkshire Rarebit. Is finished by having two poached eggs, and two slices of bacon for each slice of toast. (946a\ CHESTEE OEUSTS (Oroutes au Chester). Cut some slices from a kitchen loaf, not too thin, fry them in butter on one side only in a flat saucepan or frying-pan; drain and cover the fried side with a thick layer of Chester cheese, sprinkle over with a pinch of cayenne pepper. Lay the crust again in the pan with more butter and push into a hot oven. When the cheese becomes creamy, the under part of the crusts should be dry, then remove from the oven and serve. (947), EISSOLES OF BEAIN, PKINOETOWN (Eissoles de Cervelles & la Princetown), Koll out a thin layer of brioche paste (No. 130), cut round pieces from it with a three inch in diameter pastry cutter. Stir into two ounces of butter, one tablespoonful of very finely chopped onions, and add to it a pint and a half of reduced ri.llemande sauce (No. 407). Cut half a pound of brains into quarter inch dice pieces; wipe them dry, and fry them in butter on a hot fire with half their quantity of mushrooms, season and add this to the prepared sauce, then lay it aside to get cold. With this preparation garnish the pieces, FIO. 234. forming it into balls each an inch and a half in diameter; moisten around, and fold the paste over in two, then set it aside to rise in a moderately warm place; when double the original size, fry the rissoles slowly until they are cooked and of a nice color, then dress them on folded napkins, and serve. (948). EISSOLES OF CHICKEN (Eissoles de Volaille). Slice half a pound of chicken and cut it into Julienne (No. 318), as well as four ounces of mush- rooms and two ounces of peeled truffles; mix them in with five gills of veloute" sauce (No. 415) previously thickened with raw egg-yolks, cream and butter; set it on the fire, and stir steadily 390 THE EPICUREAN. until it boils, then remove and set the preparation aside to cool. With this preparation make some rissoles; bread-crumb them the same as explained in No. 161 and fry in very hot white frying fat; dress on a folded napkin and decorate the top with fried parsley. All rissoles are dressed and decorated the same. (949). EISSOLES OF OEAWFISH A LA BEATEICE (Kissoles d'Ecrevisses a la Beatrice). Poach some pike forcemeat (No. 76) three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, then cut it up irto squares; add to these half as much crawfish cut into the same sized pieces, half the quantity of forcemeat as mushrooms and half the quantity of mushrooms as truffles. Reduce this salpicon down with cream bechamel (No. 411) thickened with egg-yolks, cream and fine butter, and with this preparation proceed to make rissoles the same as explained in No. 947. Serve on folded napkins. (950). EISSOLES A LA DEMIDOFF (Eissoles a la Demidoff). Roll out some brioche paste (No. 130) to one-eighth of an inch in thickness; divide it into rounds with a channelled three and a half inch in diameter pastry cutter, and lay in the center of each a ball of preparation an inch and a half in diameter. Wet around these, fold over, and fasten the two edges together, then lay them on a floured cloth, and leave them to rise in a mild tempera- ture until double their height; fry them slowly in very hot fat so that the paste be thoroughly cooked and serve when done on folded napkins. For the preparation cut about two ounces of mushrooms, two ounces of truffles and two ounces of breast of pheasant; heat well with veloute sauce (No. 415) until boiling point; allow to cool; use this preparation to garnish the rissoles. (951). EISSOLES OF FAT LIVEES A LA UDE (Eissoles de Foies-Gras a la Ude). Take out the contents of a pound terrine of foies-gras; remove all the grease from the force- meat, and cut the liver into three-sixteenths inch squares, and put them aside in a very cool place. Pound the forcemeat found around the liver without any of the grease, add to it nine raw egg- yolks, season to taste, and put in with it two tablespoonfuls of chicken glaze (No. 398), and the fat liver cut in pieces. Roll out very thin some fragments of puff paste, having it only an eighth of an inch in thickness; cut with a channeled pastry cutter round pieces, three inches in diameter, and lay in the center of each, an inch and a quarter sized ball. Moisten around with a brush slightly wetted with cold water, fold them over, fasten well the edges so that the interior is hermetically enclosed, then dip them in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry them in hot fat xor a sufficient length of time, to allow the paste to cook properly; dress them on a dish over a iolded napkin. (952). EISSOLES OF GAME, CHICKEN OE FISH FOEOEMEAT, BEEF OE VEAL FALATE OE LAMB (Eissoles de Farce de Gibier, de Volaille, on de Poisson de Palais de Bceuf ou de Veau, ou d'Agneau). For the rissoles of game, chicken, or fish forcemeat see No. 63. Mix in with either of these some raw fine herbs; prepare and finish the same as for the rissoles in Elementary Methods (No. 161). Beef or Veal Palate. Cut a pound of beef or veal palate into three-sixteenth inch squares; have also six ounces of cooked lean ham cut the same and put them with some bechamel (No. 409) and melted meat-glaze (No. 402) ; set aside to get quite cold. Roll out fragments of puff paste and finish the rissoles as for No. 161. Serve on folded napkins. Lamb. Chop up finely one medium sized shallot; fry it in butter, and add to it both veloute (No. 415) and tomato sauce (No. 549); stir in a pound of cold lean roast lamb cut in three-six- teenth inch squares, season to taste, transfer it to a vessel to set aside until perfectly cold, then form it into rissoles the same as for No. 161, and serve on folded napkins. (953). EISSOLES OF MUSHEOOM AND MAEEOV (Eissoles de Champignons a la Moelle). Cut half a pound of mushrooms into dice shaped pieces, and fry them on the fire with two ounces of butter, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and a bay leaf, two ounces of sliced raw ham, and a teaspoonful of flour, also two spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 414), a little oroth, and some salt; let these all cook slowly, skim off the fat, and when done add the juice of a lemon, and set the preparation aside to get cold; finish them the same as explained a la Ude (No. 951). SIDE DISHES. 391 For Marrow. Cut in half inch slices and soak for three hours, changing the water several times; throw them into boiling broth, and when done, drain and coat over with some well reduced half-glaze (No. 400) with red pepper, and finish the same as the mushroom rissoles. Serve very hot on napkins. (954). KISSOLES OF RED TONGUE OR OF SWEETBKEADS (Rissoles de Langue Ecarlate ou de Ris de Veau). Red Tongue. Reduce one pint and a half of espagnole sauce (No. 414), with a little meat glaze (No. 402), and two spoonfuls of Madeira wine, add to it one pound of red veal tongue cooked and cooled under a weight, then cut into three-sixteenth inch squares, eight ounces of mushrooms and two ounces of truffles, the two latter articles being cut into eighth of inch pieces; heat the mixture well until boiling point is reached, then set it aside to get cold. Use this preparation for making the rissoles the same as No. 161, and serve them on folded napkins. Sweetbreads. Fry one ounce of chopped up onions in butter with one pound of braised sweet- breads previously pressed under a weight to reduce it to three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, then cut into Julienne; add some cooked and well drained mushrooms, diluting the whole with veloute sauce (No. 415), thicken properly with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter, add chopped parsley, salt, pepper and nutmeg, set this preparation aside to cool and finish the rissoles as for No. 161, Serve on folded napkins. (955). RISSOLES OF PARTRIDGE A LA WADDINGTON (Rissoles de Perdreaux a la Waddington). Chop up very fine one pound of raw partridge meat free of nerves, with five ounces of blanched fat pork, and five ounces of beef marrow; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, then add two ounces of chopped up truffles, one whole egg, and a tablespoonful of half-glaze (No. 400); make rissole balls with this preparation the same way as explained for No. 947; dress them when finished in pyramids on a napkin, garnishing with a bunch of fried parsley. (956.i. RISSOLETTES A LA POMPADOUR (Rissolettes a la Pompadour). Rissolettes are made with very thin pancakes, cutting them into round pieces two and a half inches in diameter; the salpicon ball to be an inch; they are fastened together by a string of chicken forcemeat (No. 89), a quarter of an inch thick, and laid on one-half of the circles. The paste for the pancakes is composed of half a pound of flour, stirring gradually into it, five eggs, a little milk, salt and two ounces of melted butter; the paste must be liquid. Put some clarified butter into small frying pans, add a little of the paste and spread it around so as to form very thin pancakes; when done lay them on a cloth, and cut from them with a round two and a half inch in diameter pastry cutter, pieces for the rissolettes. Rissolettes a la Pompadour. Have a small Julienne salpicon of beef palate and mushrooms mixed with a little well-reduced and well-seasoned bechamel (No. 409), set into a vessel to get cold. Make a ball of this preparation one inch in diameter, and lay it on the center of one of the pancake rounds, two and a half inches wide; fold the pancake and fasten the two edges together with a string of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89); dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry them to a fine color. Serve on folded napkins. (957). RISSOLETTES A LA RENAN (Rissolettes a la Renan). Prepare a chicken puree by pounding together half a pound of chicken and half a pound of rice cooked in white broth, adding half a pint of bechamel (No. 409), two ounces of fresh butter and some meat glaze (No. 402); season, press through a tammy, let get thoroughly cold, then finish making the rissolettes the same as for a la pompadour (No. 956). (958). RISSOLETTES A LA SOLFERINO (Rissolettes a la Solfe"rino). Cut some foies-gras, truffles, mushrooms, quenelles and sweetbreads into small three-sixteenth inch squares; put this salpicon into a well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407), and when cold make the rissolettes with this salpicon, the same as for a la pompadour (No. 956). 392 THE EPICUREAN. (959), TIMBALES, REMARKS Off (Observations sur les Timbales). There are several kinds of tinabales; those made with a very thin timbale paste; those of que- nelle forcemeat and those of cream forcemeat, either of chicken, game or fish. The name timbale should only be applied to those made of paste cylindrical-shaped like a footless goblet, or a silver mug, or else half spherical-shaped in imitation of the kettle-drum used in an orchestra and filled with a garnishing of some kind. A "bung" would better represent the idea of what is commonly called timbale, and I would suggest the adoption of the French of bung " bondon, " for I scarcely believe that the elegance of the bill of fare would be marred by reading: " Bondons of Pickerel a la Walton," or " Bondons of Chicken a la Reine," or "Bondons of Woodcock a, la Diane," or " Bondons of Pheasants a la Benois." I have not the slightest intention of changing the conventional name. I only suggest an idea that might he advantageously followed if so de- sired. For making timbales cylindrical molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) two and five-eighths inches wide by two and one-eighth inches high are generally used; butter the insides with fresh unmelted butter and decorate with fanciful cuts of truffles, tongue, pistachios, etc. They may also be strewn with truffles, tongue, lobster coral and pistachios, all these being chopped up finely and separate- ly, then dried in the air. Fill with forcemeat either with or without a salpicon, then poach; for this consult Elementary Methods (No. 152). Invert on to a dish containing a little consomme and serve the sauce that accompanies the timbales separately. (960). TIMBALES A LA BEAUMAROHAIS (Timbales a la Beaumarchais). Make a salpicon with mushrooms and foies-gras cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares; mix them in an espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with game essence (No. 389) and let get cold. Butter and decorate the molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) with a large truffle ring at the bottom, and a small piece of truffle in the center of this; ornament the sides with eight perpendicular thin slices of truffles each three-sixteenths of an inch wide, laid at equal distances apart around the mold; cover the bottom and sides with a game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91); in the middle place a half inch in FIG. 235. diameter ball of the salpicon, lay over more forcemeat, and poach the timbales as in No. 152. Serve separately a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), with essence of game (No. 389) and Rhine wine added. FIG 236 (961), TIMBALES A LA BENTON (Timbales a la Benton). Line some buttered timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) with some timbale paste (No. 150), having it rolled out as thinly as possible; fill up the interior with buttered paper stuffed with flour, cover the top with a layer of the paste and pinch the edges with a pastry tong; egg over the surface twice, and. cook it in a moderate oven; when done uncover, empty out, unmold, and brush the timbales with eggs and set them in the oven to color nicely. Fill them with a salpicon of truffles, tongue, mushrooms and chicken mingled with a buttered allemande sauce (No. 407). (962), TIMBALES A LA OALAISIENNE (Timbales a la Oalaisienne). Prepare the timbales the same as for a la Benton (No. 961). Have a garnishing of either poached oysters or mussels, or else of both, and crawfish, or shrimps cooked and shelled. Cut the mussels into five-eighths of an inch squares, and the crawfish or shrimps into quarter of an inch pieces; reduce a normande sauce (No. 509), with the oyster juice or some mushroom broth, and add to it a little fish glaze (No. 399); put the garnishing and sauce together, heat well, and fill the timbales with it. Place on top a cover composed of three rolled out layers of puff paste, each one-eighth of an inch in thickness, the bottom one measuring an half across, the next one an inch and a quarter, and the top one three-quarters of an (963). TIMBALES A LA OHEVALIERE (Timbales k la Ohevaliere). Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) using kneaded butter, but neither melted nor Uret. Decoi-ate the sides with pieces of sweet noodle paste (No. 142), executed by cutting out FIG. 237. inch and a inch. SIDE DISHES. 393 fanciful pieces and laying them on the sides in a design formed of two back to back divided by three rounds of different sizes, the largest one on the top and decreasing in size to the bottom, moisten the noodle paste. Line the molds with a thin timbale paste (No. 150) without disturbing the decoration. Fill inside with some buttered paper and flour, cover over with a layer of thin paste, cut it evenly around the top, and pinch the edges with a pastry tong. Cook the timbales in a moderate oven; remove the lid and the insides, and brush over the paste with some glaze, then garnish with foies-gras, mushrooms, and balls of truffles, the whole combined with a Madeira sauce (No. 492). Lay on top some cocks'-combs and kidneys rolled in a little meat glaze (No. 402), arranging them tastefully. FIG. 238. FIG. 239. (964), DUCHESS TIMBALES (Timbales a la Duchesse). Prepare a salpicon of truffles, foies-gras, artichoke bottoms, and rings of olives, made by removing the stones with a tin tube, and cutting them in slices across; mix with a well reduced flnanciere sauce (No. 464), and let get cold. Decorate the bottom of the mold (No. 2, Fig. 137) with a ring of truffle, and fill in the empty space of this with some chopped up pistachios; lay at equal distances at lower edge of the side of the mold, ten small round pieces of beef tongue, each one three-sixteenths of an inch in circumference; and from these set bands of truffle perpendicularly reaching to the top of the mold, each one being three-sixteenths of an inch in width; garnish the bottom and sides with a layer of quenelle chicken forcemeat (No. 89), and place in the center a half inch diameter ball of the salpicon; cover with more forcemeat, then poach and finish the same as for No. 959. Serve a Madeira sauce (No. 492) separately. (965). TIMBALES A LA DUMAS (Timbales a la Dumas). For the salpicon have some well reduced Duxelle, and mix in truffles with raw egg-yolks. Decorate the molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) by placing in the center of the bottom a round piece of tongue, and at equal distances, around this four round bits of truffles; make four triangles the length of the mold from slices of tongue, each one being an eighth of an inch wide, lay them on symmetrically, and place eight round bits of truffle inside of each triangle near the bottom, and eight moi-e near the top, intersecting them alternately. Garnish the bottom and sides with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), lay a half inch ball of the salpicon in the center, and Fia - 240> cover with more forcemeat, poach, unmold, and serve with a light ravigote sauce (No. 531). (966). TIMBALES POE GOUEMETS (Timbales des Gourmets). The salpicon for these is composed of a reduced Madeira sauce (No. 492), to which is added some ducks' livers and truffles cut in one-eighth inch dice; leave till cold. Lay on the bottom of the molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) a three-quarters of an inch in diameter slice of truffle, and arrange the sides in panels, made by placing eight perpendicular bands of of truffles an eighth of an inch wide all around at intervals, and between each two arrange narrow strips to connect them, three in one, and two in the other, so that they alternate and form distinct oblongs, and in each one of these oblongs there being two on one row, and one and two halves on the other lay oval pieces of red beef tongue. Cover the bottom and sides with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), and place a half inch ball of the salpicon in the center; fill with more forcemeat, and finish the same as timbales (No. 959). Serve separately a gourmet sauce (No. 472). (967). HAELEQUIN TIMBALES (Timbales k 1'Arlequin), Prepare a salpicon of artichoke bottoms cut into three-sixteenth inch squares; mix them in with a well buttered cold supreme sauce (No. 547). Decorate the timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) by placing a ring cut from a truffle in the center of the bottom, one-eighth of an inch narrower than the bottom itself, and in the center of this ring lay a round piece of tongue; ornament the sides with alternate lozenges of truffles, red beef tongue, and some royal (No. 241) cut thin; also lozenges of forcemeat prepared as follows: Have two ounces of quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) with chopped truffles added, and the same quantity of forcemeat with chopped pistachios; spread a layer one-sixteenth of an inch of each preparation of force- meat on sheets of paper; poach till firm to the touch, let cool and cut in lozenges to use for decor- ating the timbales. Cover the decoration with a coating of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), FIG. 241. 394 THE EPICUREAN. FIG. 244. place in the center a half inch diameter ball of the prepared salpicon, cover over \vith more forcemeat, then poach and unmold the timbales as described in No. 959. Serve separately a veloute pauee (No. 415), reduced with a puree of onions (No. 723) and cream, and thicken it at the last moment with a piece of fresh butter. (968). IMPERIAL TIMBALES (Timbales Imperial). The salpicon to be made of a well reduced supreme sauce (No. 547), adding to it tongue, truffles and mushrooms cut in small Julienne. Cut some narrow bands of truffles, a six- teenth of an inch wide, and six-eighths of an inch long; butter the molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), set a five-eighths of an inch round of truffle at the bottom and on the side close to the bottom a row of quarter inch in diameter rounds of truffles at the top opening of the mold, lay these bands in long triangles around the edge; on the top of each triangle set a three-sixteenth inch round piece truffle; cover the insides Fig. 243. of the molds with cream forcemeat (No. 74), and in the center lay a half inch ball of the salpicon, finish filling the mold, poach and dress it the same as for No. 959. A lucullus sauce (No. 490) to be served separately. (969). IRVING TIMBALES (Timbales a la Irving). Pound some cooked game or young rabbit, free of all sinews and skin with an equal quantity of rice, half as much bechamel (No. 409) and a little fresh butter, rub through a fine sieve, and set it away to get cold. Butter some cold molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) and decorate the bottom with a three-quarters of an inch in diameter slice of truffle, and the sides with triangles cut from truffles, one and five-eighths of an inch long, by three-eighths of an inch wide at the widest part. Set them round the narrow ends reaching to the bottom, the widest ends meeting together at the opening of the timbale. Fill the bottom and inner sides with game cream force- meat (No. 75) and place a ball of the prepared game puree in the center, and fill it up with game forcemeat; finish cooking and serve same as No. 959. Serve separately a champagne sauce (No. 445), with some essence of game (No. 389). (970). LAGARDERE TIMBALES (Timbales a la Lagardere). Make a salpicon of mushrooms and beef palates combined with an allemande sauce (No. 407) reduced \vithmushroom essence (No. 392), the pieces for the salpicon to be cut into three-sixteenths of inch squares. Have round molds an inch and a half in diameter, having at the bottom an indent a quarter of an inch deep by one inch in diameter, the molds to be one and five-eighths of an inch high, and two inches and one- eighth wide at the opening. Decorate the molds after buttering them when cold with triangles of truffles, three-quarters of an inch long by three-eighths of an inch wide; lay them close together around the opening of the mold, and on the top of each point set a round bit of tongue, three-sixteenths of an inch; garnish the bottom and sides with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75) and fill the center of the inside with a salpicon ball half an inch in diameter; fill up the mold with more of the forcemeat, finishing it the same as for No. 950. Set on top in the indent a three-quarters of an inch ball of very fine chestnut puree (No. 712) quite thick, bread-crumb and fry in very hot fat, and serve a supreme sauce (No. 547), with essence of mushrooms (No. 392 ) separately. (971). LA VALLIERE TIMBALES (Timbales a la La Valliere). The molds are to be dome-shaped, with an indent a quarter of an inch deep, and diameter; the molds themselves being an inch and three-quarters high and one and five-eighths wide. Decorate the sides with bands of truffle each one inch long, and lay them on like the letter V, meeting together both top and bottom and thus forming zigzags; at each place where they join, put a small round bit of truffle; fill the round part of the mold with a red cream forcemeat (No. 74) and the rest with a quail and cream forcemeat (No. 75). Remove with a tube the stone from a large Spanish olive, cut off a sixteenth part of its top and bottom and fill it with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and place on top a fine caper; poach and set one on the indents of the timbales, they having been previously poached and dished, and serve with a separate sauce-boat of well buttered veloute sauce (No. 415) juice added. FIG. 245. one inch in FIG 246. with lemon JJISHKS. 395 (972). LOMBAEDY TIMBALES (Timbales a la Lombarde). Line buttered timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) with thin timbale paste (No. 150), garnish the sides with buttered paper, and fill the center with rice; cover over with a small piece of buttered paper, moisten lightly the inside border of the timbales, and cover with a layer of paste; fasten the two together, pinch the border with a channeled pastry tong, egg over the top and place on it three small layers of thin puff paste, the lowest one being an inch and a half in diameter, the second, one and a quarter, and the last or top one, one inch, all three being cut out with a channeled pastry cutter. Cook the timbales in a moderate oven, remove the lids, empty out the rice and paper, unmold and egg over the outside, then set them in a quick oven; garnish the insides with pieces of chestnuts, sweetbreads and truffles cut into quarter inch squares, and mixed with an allemande sauce (No. 407); replace the covers and serve on a Lombard sauce (No. 489). (973). MAELY TIMBALES (Timbales a la Marly). Garnish the bottom of a buttered timbale mold (No. 2, Fig. 137) with a round piece of truffle, and the entire sides with thin truffle crescents intercalated to resemble fish scales; in the center of each scale, lay a small one-eighth of an inch round bit of tongue. Fill them with a partridge and cream forcemeat (No. 75), and set in the center a ball of salpicon made as follows: Mingle some partridge fumet (No. 397) with a reduced espagnole (No. 414), and add to it some foies-gras and mushrooms, both cut into one-eighth inch squares, and left till cold before using. Poach the timbales in a moderate oven, when done, dress and serve separately a sauce com- posed of one-third of espagnole sauce (No. 414), one-third of tomato sauce (No. 549), and one-third of veal blond (No. 423) reduced together. FIG. 5i48. (974). MENTANA TIMBALES (Timbales a la Mentana). The salpicon to be made of chicken livers a la Duxelle, (see below), thickened with egg-yolks, to be used when cold. Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), and place on the bottom a one inch in diameter slice of truffle, cut away the center with a three- quarters of an inch vegetable cutter, and replace the truffle by a piece of red beef tongue. Decorate the sides of the mold with thin, eighth of an inch wide strips of tongue, laid on slanting, having ten strips in all, and in the center between every one, a round bit of truffle measuring three-sixteenths of an inch across, with a smaller one one-eighth of an inch on the top and bottom, also laid on slanting, making three round bits of truffle between the two strips of tongue. Fill the insides and bottom with a chicken and cream forcemeat (No. 75), and in the center lay a ball of the prepared salpicon; then more forcemeat, and finish them as for No. 959. Serve separately a perigueux (No. 517) and tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed. For salpicon of chicken livers a la Duxelle, cut some chicken livers in quarter inch squares; fry them in butter with a little shallot, mushroom, and truffles, all chopped finely, and mingle with a little well reduced half-glaze (No. 400). FIG. 249. (975). MONTGOMEEY TIMBALES (Timbales a la Montgomery). Prepare a pheasant salpicon with truffles and mushrooms added, mixing them in with a veloute sauce (No. 415), add a little meat glaze (No. 402), and leave till cold. Butter a round timbale mold, having a round identation at the bottom; decorate the whole length of the flat side with strips of tongue, and place a dot of truffle an eighth of an inch in diameter on the top of each strip, having eight in all; dredge over the sides with finely chopped pistachios, and cover the bottom and sides with a delicate pheasant game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), and set in the center a ball of the salpicon; fill the mold with some more of the same forcemeat, poach and dress (No. 959), place on top a small round croquette three-quarters of an inch in diameter made of the salpicon. Serve separately a veloute 1 sauce (No. 415), finished with essence of game (No. 389). FIG. 250. 396 THE EPICUREAN FIG. 251. Fro. 252. (976). MOSAIC TIMBALES (Timbales Mosaique). The timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) are to be entirely decorated with small lozenges of tongue, truffle and hard boiled egg-whites, to represent a mosaic ground work. Begin by- placing a ring of truffle at the bottom of the mold, inside of this a smaller ring of egg-whites, and in the center to fit in a half inch round of beef tongue; this fills the entire bottom. Decorate the sides with alternate lozenges to form squares or boxes, having all the red on one side, the black on the other, and the white on top of each square; the upper and lower row should be divided in two lengthwise; by following these directions they will form perfect mosaic squares, taking care that the points are directed outward; support this decoration with a snipe quenelle forcemeat (No. 91); set in the center a ball made of royal cream (No. 241), and finish filling the molds; poach and serve them as for No. 959. Serve a white Colbert sauce (No. 451) separately. (977). NEAPOLITAN TIMBALES (Timbales Napolitaine). The salpiconis composed of tongue, truffles and mushrooms, cut in three -sixteenth of an inch squares and combined with espagnole sauce (No. 414), meat glaze (No. 402) and tomato sauce (No. 549) ; let cool, cut some macaroni into pieces a sixteenth of an inch long, fill the empty places in each macaroni half of them with a round piece of truffle to fit it exactly, and the other half with beef tongue instead of truffles. Butter the timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), lay a round piece of truffle on the bottom, and around it set the bits of macaroni, one row filled with tongue, and over this, one filled with truffles; one laid symmetrically above the other until the mold is filled. Garnish the bottom and sides with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and a half inch ball of the salpicon in the center, fill up with more forcemeat and finish them exactly the same as for No. 959. Serve a separate sauce-boat of Neapolitan sauce (No. 507). (978). PALERMITAINE TIMBALES (Timbales a la Palermitaine). The salpicon to be composed of red beef tongue, mushrooms and foies-gras, mingled with a tomatoed half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Butter the interior of the timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) with some well kneaded, softened butter that has not been melted, and set on the flat bottoms a thin round piece of truffle measuring three-quarters of an inch across. Cook till slightly firm some small spaghetti macaroni; drain it well, dry, and turn it in a spiral around the entire inside of the mold beginning at the bottom and continuing until the mold is completely full; it is better to use a single piece of macaroni for this. Support the macaroni with a layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and set a half inch ball of the salpicon in the center; cover with more forcemeat and finish the same as for the timbales (No. 959). Serve separately a Palermitaine sauce (No. 514). (979). PERIGORDINE TIMBALES (Timbales Pengordme). Prepare a very consistent chestnut pure"e (No. 712), adding to it a little meat glaze (No. 402), some fresh butter and raw egg-yolks; let this get thoroughly cold. Garnish the bottom of the timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) with a thin slice of truffle, cut out the center with a half inch vegetable cutter, and replace the piece with a round cut of tongue exactly the same size; fill up the bottom and sides with a chicken and cream forcemeat (No. 75), and set in the center a half inch ball of the chestnut purde; cover over with more forcemeat and finish the same as for timbales (No. 959). Haveaseparate sauce-boat of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), finished with essence of truffles (No. 395). (980). PRINCESS TIMBALES (Timbales a la Princesse). Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), and roll close together around the inside strings of short paste (No. 135), an eighth of an inch in diameter, keeping them as long as possible; begin at the bottom in the center and continue in spirals till the top is reached, then coat the bottom and sides with a chicken quenelle force- meat (No. 89), laying a ball of white montglas salpicon (No. 747) in the center. Cover the top with a thin lid of the paste and cook in a slow oven for about half an hour; remove the lid, and fill the timbales with a Madeira wine sauce (No. 492); substitute for the cover a half spherical quenelle decorated with truffles cut fancifully; dredged with chopped pistachios, made of chicken cream forcemeat and poached in a slack oven. Serve on a napkin. FIG. 253. FIG. 254. Fio. 255. SIDK DISHES. 397 FIG. 257. (981). TIMBALES A LA RENAISSANCE (Timbales a la Renaissance). Have ready a salpicon of truffles, chicken and artichoke bottoms, ail cut into three-sixteenth inch squares; mix them with an espagnole sauce (No. 414), well reduced with meat glaze (No. 402) and tomato sauce (No. 549). Butter the insides of timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), lay on the bottom a round piece of red beet-root cut very thin, an inch and a quarter in diameter; cut from the center a round piece a quarter of an inch across, and replace it by a very green cooked pea. Garnish the mold with a layer of chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75). both on the bottom and sides, and set in the center a ball of the prepared salpicon, then finish exactly the same as for FIG. 256. No. 959. Serve a Chateaubriand sauce (No. 446) separately. (982). RISTORI TIMBALES (Timbales a la Burton), Prepare a salpicon of truffles, mushrooms and artichoke bottoms cut into three-sixteenth inch squares, and mingled with an allemande sauce (No. 407), then put away to get cold. Butter the inside of timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), decorate the bottoms with a thin round of truffle, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and on the top and bottom of the sides lay inverted triangles of tongue, or the red part of lobster, having twenty-four in all, twelve on the top, and twelve on the bottom; and in the center of the side range symmeti.'cally twelve small rounds of truffle to form a circle. Fill the bottom and sides with a chicken and cream forcemeat (No. 75), well mixed, and in the middle set a half inch ball of the salpicon; finish with more forcemeat, then poach and unmold as explained in No. 959. A veloute sauce (No. 415) with finely chopped truffle sauce (No. 551), to be served separately. (983). ROTHSCHILD TIMBALES (Timbales a la Rothschild). Decorate the bottom of each buttered timbale mold (No. 2, Fig. 137) with a thin round slice of truffle measuring three-quarters of an inch in diameter; around the sides range six lozenge shaped pieces of the ti'j2e T each one divided by a round bit of truffle an eighth of an inch across, and more of the same sized and shaped pieces at both tips of the lozenges, making eighteen small rounds in all. Fill the bottom and sides with a chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), and lay in the center a ball, half an inch in diameter, composed of foies-gra* taken from a terrine and rubbed through a sieve; fi'l the mold with more forcemeat then' poach and finish the same as for No. 959. Serve separately a puree of chestnuts (No. 712), diluted with veloute sauce (No. 415) and cream to the consistency of a sauce, incorporating into it at the last moment, a piece of melted fresh butter. (984). SARTIGES TIMBALES (Timbales k la Sartiges). Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), decorate the center of the bottom with a rosette design made of truffles, and around the top and bottom of the sides of the mold, lay a detached row of round pieces of truffle, having those at the bottom somewhat smaller than those at the top. In the center on each side make a truffle cross-shaped like an X, one inch high, and in the middle of it, lay a small eighth of an inch round of tongue, and on each side rings of tongue, three-eighths of an inch in diameter. Fill the bottoms and sides with a grouse cream forcemeat (No. 75), and set in the center of this a salpicon composed of squares of truffle cut in three-sixteenths of an inch, and mingled with a well reduced half-glaze sauce (No. 413); fill up with more of the forcemeat, and finish the same as the timbales (No. 959). Serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414) with game essence (No. 389). (985). SCOTCH TIMBALES (Timbales & I'^cossaise), Prepare some very thin pancakes the same as for rissolettes (No. 956). Butter timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) and line the inner sides with these pancakes; prepare a salpicon with four ounces of white chicken meat, the same quantity of mushrooms, and two ounces of rice; combine these ingredients with a buttered bechamel (No. 409) and let get cold. Fill the molds half full with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and cream forcemeat (No. 75), the same quantity of each well mixed together; in the center lay a half inch ball of the salpicon, and finish filling the mold with more forcemeat, poach and finish the same as for No. 959. After they are unmolded, lay them in the oven for one minute, then serve separately a Spanish sauce (No. 414) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392). FIG. 258. FIG. 259. FIG. 260. 398 THE EPICUREAN (986). SOUBISE TIMBALES (Timbales a la Soubise). Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), and lay on the bottom a round piece of truffle, three-quarters of an inch in diameter; on the sides place truffle bands an eighth of an inch wide, by half an inch long, having twenty-five of these pieces for each mold; lay them on in five lines, one above the other, the bottom corner of one joining the opposite top corner of the next one; between these lines place rounds of truffles. Fill with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), mixing in with it a third of its quantity of soubise puree (No. 723), cook and finish the same as for the timbales (No. 959). Serve separately a veloute sauce (No. 415), reduced and finished by adding to it a piece of fresh butter. FIG. 261 (987). SOYER TIMBALES (Timbales a la Soyer). Prepare a timbale of foundation paste the same as for Lombardy (No. 972). Fill it with a garnishing of game and cream quenelles (No. 733), small mushroom heads, truffles cut into five-sixteenths of an inch pieces, and sweetbreads cut the same; mix with it a lucullus sauce (No. 490); after the timbales are filled, replace the covers, dress them on a folded napkin and serve hot. FIG. 262. Make FIG. 263. adding to (988). TALLEYRA.ND TIMBALES (Timbales a la Talleyrand). a salpicon of foies-gras and mushrooms, mixed with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and finished with raw egg-yolks. Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), and throw indiscriminately into the insides small sticks of tongue, truffles and chicken five-sixteenths of an inch wide by one-sixteenth of an inch square; letting them assume any fancy shape into which they may fall. Cover the bottom and sides with a cream forcemeat (No. 75), and lay in the center a salpicon ball half an inch in diameter; cover with more of the forcemeat and finish cooking and serving the same as for No. 959. Have a buttered allemande sauce (No. 407), it a dash of cayenne pepper, and the juice of a lemon. (989). VENETIAN TIMBALES (Timbales a la Ve'nitienne). Make a salpicon of ducks' livers cut up into one-eighth of an inch pieces, cut the same of some truffles, mushrooms, and red beef tongue, and mix all with a well reduced allemande sauce (No. 407). Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), lay at the bottom a round slice of truffle, and from the center of it cut out with a vegetable cutter, a piece half an inch in diameter, and place in its stead a round piece of tongue; dust over the sides with very finely chopped pistachios shaken through a sieve, and fill up the molds with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), laying a ball of the salpicon in the middle; finish as in No. 959. Serve separately a bechamel sauce (No. 409), reduced with mushroom liquor and some chopped parsley added. FIG. 264. (990). TIMBALES WITH RED BEEF TONGUE (Timbales a 1'Ecarlate). Butter some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137) and throw in some very finely chopped unsmoked beef tongue to make it adhere well to the bottom and sides, then fill with a chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75); poach and unmold the same as for No. 959. Send to the table with a separate sauce-boat of sauce prepared as follows: Cut some chicken livers into three-sixteenth inch squares; saute them in butter, moisten with white wine and espagnole sauce (No. 414), and strain through a tammy; add to the sauce a garnishing of truffles cut in three-sixteenth inch squares. These timbales contain no salpicon. FIG. 265. (991). FLORENTINE TOASTS (Roties Florentine). Roll out a layer of fancy roll paste (No. 3418) form raised edges around it, having it three inches wide, by twelve inches long; besprinkle with oil, and garnish with anchovy or sardine fillets; season with chives, garlic, and chopped onions, and lay on top slices of peeled and pressed tomatoes, also thin slices of American cheese. Cook them in a hot oven, and when done strew over chopped parsley and savory, cut them into pieces an inch and a half wide, having eight of them in all, or if preferred they may be made of slices of toasted bread three inches long, by one and a half wide, instead of paste. SIDE UIBHES. 399 (992). .TOAST WITH OIL AND CHEESE, SARDINES A LA SEVILLE (Eotie a 1'Huile et au Fromage, aux Sardines et a la Seville), Toast some slices of bread three inches by one and a half; dip them in fine olive oil, and lay them on a dish; strew over some grated parmesan, pepper and lemon juice, set them for a few seconds into the oven, giving them just sufficient time to melt the cheese, and serve the instant they leave the oven. For Sardine Toast. Instead of the cheese, pound a few anchovies with an equal quantity of fresh butter and a pinch of parsley; with this butter cover some slices of toasted bread. Wipe off gently with a cloth the skins from a few sardines, lay them on top of the toast, then set them in the oven for a few minutes, and serve very hot. Toast a la Seville. Chop up separately some anchovies, parsley, chives, shallots and garlic, then mix them together in a bowi with oil, spread this mixture on toasted slices of bread three-eighths of an inch thick by three inches square; divide these slices through the center; lay some anchovy fillets on top. Dress the toast on a dish, pour over a little oil, and sprinkle with mignonette; push them into the oven for two minutes, then squeeze over the juice of an orange, and serve. (993). VARENIKIS-POLISH SIDE DISH (Varenikis-Hors-d'ffiuvre Polonais). The day before the varenikis are needed for use put some pot cheese in a cloth, wrap it up and tie with a string; lay it on a colander, place a weight on top and leave it without farther press- ure until the next day so that all the buttermilk drains off. Take it out of the cloth, put it in a mortar, seasoning with salt, pepper and a dash of nutmeg, then pound well to have it a very smooth paste. Now add gradually two ounces of fresh butter then a heaping tablespoonful of marrow frangipane and as much cream cake paste (No. 132) and lastly four egg-yolks; continue to pound and mix until the paste is exceedingly smooth, then rub it through a sieve; lay it in a vessel and let rest in the ice-box. Prepare a raviole paste (No. 147) and after half an hour roll it very thin and from this cut out some strips; cover each band with a small part of the prep- aration the size and shape of a nut and form them into small rissoles the same as for ordinary rissoles (No. 161); lay each one as soon as prepared on a slightly floured tin and stand them in a cool place. Ten minutes before serving throw them into a saucepanful of lightly salted boiling water. As soon as poached drain them on a cloth and then arrange them in a silver dish; pour a few spoonsfuls of sweet cream over, serving more separately. In Russia they substitute melted butter for cream and serve sour cream apart. ADDITIONAL RECIPES. MOLLTJSKS and CRUSTACEANS. THE QTJAHAUa OE LITTLE NECK CLAMS (Lucines Oranges ou Clovis). There are many kinds of these bivalves, but these of which we speak are greatly appreciated as an article of food. Small ones an inch to an inch and three-quarters in diameter are served raw, in the months of May, June, July and August, entirely replacing the oyster. Little neck clams are the most remarkable of their kind, their principal characteristic being the uniting to the hinge of cardinal and lateral teeth; beside these they possess three other teeth, two being diverging. They are far preferable to the large clams for all culinary preparations, being more tender, of FIG. 266. a finer flavor and their taste less strong than the others. (994). CLAMS, PHILADELPHIA STYLE (Lucines Oranges a la Philadelphie). Procure two dozen medium sized clams; poach them in their own juice with as much water, and as soon as they are firm to the touch, drain them off. Fry two finely cut-up shallots in butter without letting them attain color, add the clams, and heat them with a little sherry and brandy, seasoning with mignonette and a very little salt; just when prepared to serve thicken the gravy with cream, egg-yolks and a small quantity of butter. Serve the clams in a vegetable or deep dish, and lay on top and around some small round three-quarters of an inch rice croquettes. (995). OLAMS A LA POULETTE (Lucines Grangers a la Poulette). Poach twenty-four clams, suppressing the hard parts, put them into a sautoir with a pint of poulette sauce (No. 527) and heat them thoroughly; season with pepper, mignonette, nutmeg and lemon juice, and thicken the whole with egg-yolks and fresh butter, adding chopped parsley. (996). CLAM PANCAKES AND FKITTERS (Crepes et Beignets de Lucines Oranges). Break two whole eggs into a bowl, and add a pinch of white pepper; beat them thoroughly with a tablespoonf ul of flour and a tablespoonful of cream; stir briskly, and put into the mixture ten medium sized raw clams chopped up very fine, and with this preparation make some rather thick pancakes. Fritters. Place in a saucepan one gill of milk, half an ounce of butter, some cayenne pepper and nutmeg; boil the whole and add three ounces of flour; dry the paste, then remove it from the fire, incorporating slowly into it two whole eggs, and finish with four spoonfuls of double cream; now add to the paste six ounces of small sized clams, drained and chopped; mix well and then take up some of the preparation with a spoon held in the right hand and using the first finger of the left hand, detach it from the spoon, and let it fall into hot frying fat; when done, drain and range the fritters on napkins. (997). STUFFED OLAMS (Lucines Orange~es Farcies). Fry colorless two ounces of finely chopped onions in two ounces of butter, dredge over two spoonfuls of flour, stir well, then add the liquor from ten raw clams, two ounces of chopped mush- rooms, and one gill of white wine; boil up the whole, skim off the foam arising to the top, and reduce to half, seasoning with red pepper and nutmeg. Chop up the raw clams, and set them into the prepared sauce; place it on a brisk fire and stir steadily, and when the clams are poached, add some chopped parsley, and thicken with egg-yolks and cream. Lay this preparation aside for further use, but if it is to be used at once, fill up some well rounded buttered clam shells, dust over with bread-crumbs and lay a small pat of butter on top of each; place them on a baking pan in the oven to heat and color nicely, then arrange them crown-shaped on a folded napkin, garnishing the center with very green parsley branches. 402 TII.K KIMCURKATV. LONG OR SOFT CLAMS (Lucines), Ix)ng or soft clams resemble somewhat the Venus clam, however, they have no exterior tube. These inolluuks live in both sand and mud. (998). SOFT OLAMS FRIED, GARNISHED WITH FRIED PARSLEY (Luoines Papillons Frites Garnies au Persil Frit). Drain some medium si/od soft clams; immerse thorn in milk, drain them once more, then roll thorn in Hour and fry. After being rolled in the Hour, they may bo dipped in beaten eggs, then in broad -crumbs and fried until a Hue color is assumed; dress them on a napkin, garnishing with fried parsley. (999). SOFT OLAMS ON SKEWERS OR HATELETS (Luoines Papillons en Broohette ou Hatelets). Klin some silver skewers through the soft clams, alternating each piece with a three-quarters of an inch square of loan, nnsmokod hacon; dip the whole into melted butter, and roll them in broad - cniinii::, broil them over a slow fire, and when done dress on a hot dish and cover with maftro-d'hotol butler (No. 5N1). They may be |irr|>;irc I \ 14- / \ / \3 \ 10 8 ; I ' \\ 1 b / 3 """ y ' I \ ^L3 2.\ 20 1. Culotte. 2. Tranches petit os. 3. Milieu du gite a la noix. 4. Derriere du gite a la noix. 5. Tendre de tranches inte"- rieure. 6. Tranche grasse inte'rieure. 7. Piece ronde partie interieure. 8. Aloyau avec filet. 9. Bavette d' Aloyau. i 2.4- (FiG. 303.) 10. Cotes Couvertes, a la noix. 19. 11. Plat de Cotes. 20. 12. Surlonge partie inte"rieure. 21. 13. Derriere de paleron. 22. 14. Talon de Collier. 23. Bande de M^lcreuse. 24. Milieu de Macreuse dans le 25. paleron. 26. 17. Boite a molele. 27. 18. Collier. Plat de joue. Flanchet. Milieu de poitriue. Cros bout. Queue degite. Gite de devant. Cros du gite de devant. Gite de derriere. Cros du gite de derriere. BEEF. 473 BEEF AMERICAN CUTS. Leg of Beef /Round Bottom Tail Round Top Flank Navel-- Plate.. Brisket-- (1316). COENED BOUND BOTTOM, TOP, ENGLISH STYLE (Noix de Boeuf Sal& Ecarlate a 1'Anglaise). Bone and prick the meat with a larding needle, rub it over with pulverized saltpetre, salt, and brown sugar, then put it in an earthern vessel or a wooden tub, pouring over a brine prepared as follows: Throw a potato into salted water; when it rises to the surface it is an indication that the brine is sufficiently strong; pour enough of this over the meat to cover entirely and set it in a cool place where the thermometer does not register above forty degrees, leaving it for fifteen days, and carefully turning the meat over at various intervals. When ready to be used, drain the corned beef, wash, then boil in plenty of water. For a six-pound piece it will take about two hours and a half. After cooking for one hour, add to it a pudding made of flour and beef suet, also cabbage, onions, and pared carrots and turnips. Three-quarters of an hour before serving, throw in some medium sized peeled potatoes; range the corned meat on a dish, garnish around with the cabbage, carrots, turnips, and onions arranged in clusters, and at the 474 THE EPICUREAN. ends place the pudding cut into slices. Pour into the bottom of the dish a clear gravy (No. 404). The quantity of water requisite to cook the corned beef depends entirely upon the quantity of salt used, and the length of time the beef was in the brine; if the beef is very salty, it will require more water than otherwise, and it is even advisable to change it after the first boil. (1317). EDGffiBONE OR AITCHBONE, BOILED OEEAM HORSERADISH SAUCE (Quasi de Bceuf bouilli Sauce Raifort a la Creme), Edgebone or aitchbone, is a bone of the rump which in dressed beef presents itself in view edgewise; it is also called aitchbone. Have a piece of the edgebone weighing twelve pounds; put it in a soup pot capable of holding twice the quantity the size of the meat. Cover with some good broth (No. 194a), place it on the hot fire to bring to a boil, salt to taste, skim well, and add two pounds of carrots, or four medium sized ones, two fine turnips, a four ounce onion stuck with two cloves, six leeks, half a medium sized parsnip, a small handful of celery and one cabbage. Simmer slowly for three or four hours, and when the meat is cooked, drain and dish it up, laying the carrots and turnips cut into pieces, also the cabbage nicely trimmed, around the sides, and green sprigs of parsley at the ends. Serve separately a cream horseradish sauce (No. 478). (1318). KTJLASH A LA PINNOISE (Guylas a la linnoise). Cut a pound of trimmed tenderloin of beef in inch squares, also two ounces of one-eighth of an inch squares of onions. Put four ounces of butter into a saute-pan, and when hot, add first the onions and then the beef; season with salt and paprika (a Hungarian pepper), moisten with a little good gravy (No. 404), and cook for one hour and a half, adding a little espagnole sauce (No. 414). Another way is to use a pound of lean tenderloin, cut in inch squares, half a pound of the breast of bacon cut in half inch squares, a pound of potatoes cut in half inch squares, a quarter of a pound of onions in one-eighth of an inch squares, frying them in half a pound of butter. Put in first the beef, then the potatoes, salt, pepper, and spice, add a pint of good gravy (No. 404), cover hermeti- cally, and cook slowly for one hour and a half. (1319). MARROW BONES ON TOAST (Moelle sur Croutes Grilles). Scrape and clean well some marrow bones (the best marrow bones are found in the round, the second best in the hind legs). Saw them off in three and a half inch length pieces; wrap them in a cloth, and plunge them in boiling broth; let it continue to boil for twenty minutes, then drain and serve the bones containing the marrow on a folded napkin, and slices of toasted bread separately, or take out the marrow, and serve it on slices of toast without the bones. (1320). OXTAILS A LA OASTELLANE (Queues de Bceuf a la Castellane). Cut some large oxtails in three inch lengths, soak for an hour, drain, and blanch the pieces for half an hour, then throw them into cold water. Mask the bottom of a saucepan with fragments of bacon, roots, and sliced onions. Put the pieces of tails on top, and moisten with sufficient broth to cover them entirely; boil the liquid, skim, and let simmer slowly for three hours. Drain them, trim, and return to the saucepan; strain and remove the fat from the broth, pour it over the tails, and finish cooking slowly for one hour. Braise some whole chestnuts (No. 654), and when, done, arrange the oxtails pyramid form on a dish, surround by the braised chestnuts, reduce the stock with a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), and some blanched celery cut into quarter of an inch squares; when it is cooked pour the sauce over and serve. (1321)) OXTAILS X LA OHIPOLATA (Queues de Bceuf a la Chipolata). Prepare and cook the oxtails the same as indicated in oxtails a la castellane (No. 1320), glaze them with meat glaze, dish them, garnishing around with broiled sausages a la Chipolata (No. 754), some braised salt pork cut in squares, some small glazed onions (No. 2765), balls of carrots, whole chestnuts, celery roots cut in cloves of garlic form, and some mushroom heads; the vege- tables blanched and cooked separately in the oxtail broth. Pour over this same broth free of all its fat, and reduced with espagnole sauce (No. 414), and Madeira. BEEF. 475 (1322). OXTAILS ALSATIAN STYLE (Queues de Boeuf a 1'Alsacienne). Cut the oxtail at a joint of the bone in three inch lengths. Soak them in lukewarm water for one hour, changing the water twice during the time, then throw them in cold water, and drain. Mask the bottom of a saucepan with fragments of ham and bacon, roots and sliced onions; set the pieces of oxtail on top, and cover them up entirely with broth leaving the fat on, and a little brandy. Four hours before dinner boil the liquid, skim, then set the pot in the oven to finish. When ready, strain the broth through a very fine sieve, remove all the fat, and let it rest quietly without stirring. Decant it carefully, pouring it over the oxtails, and leave it until nearly cold, then lift them out; trim the pieces and dip them in melted butter. Roll them in fresh bread-crumbs and broil them on a very slow fire. Arrange them over some cooked sauerkraut (No. 2819), garnishing the dish, and serving a good gravy separate. (1323). PEIED OXTAILS (Queues de Boeuf Prites). Select in preference the thickest end of six oxtails, cut them in pieces three inches long, so as to strike the joints. Soak them for one hour, drain, then throw them into boiling, salted water, and let cook for half an hour. Drain again, and set them in a saucepan with a pound of onions, and two pounds of carrots, all cut into slices, three quarts of broth, two garnished bou- quets, salt and pepper; let boil slowly for three hours and a half; by that time they should be well done, if not, let them continue boiling longer. When cooked, put them in an earthen dish, strain the broth over the meat; and when three quarters cold, drain, dip them in eggs, then in bread- crumbs and fry them in very hot fat until they attain a good color. Serve a tomato sauce (No. 549), at the same time but separately. (1324). OXTAILS HOOHEPOT (Queues de Bceuf Hochepot). Divide the oxtails at the joints of the bone on the thick end, while at the thin end leave two joints together. Soak them in warm water for one hour, changing it several times, then drain and wipe them, and lay them in a brazier lined with slices of bacon and ham. Moisten with suffi- cient mirepoix stock (No. 419) to cover them entirely, adding a gill of brandy, an onion, a carrot, a garnished bouquet, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Four hours before serving let it come to a boil on a very hot fire, then cover and let simmer on one side for three hours. Strain the broth through a fine sieve, skim off the fat, and reduce it to the consistency of a light half-glaze, then pour it in a stewpan with the pieces of well trimmed oxtails. Simmer, then turn it on a dish, arranging it high, and garnish it round with clusters of pear-shaped pieces of glazed carrots, the same of turnips, some small onions, chestnuts, celery root, all cooked separately in a little broth, and left to glaze. Add to the garnish some green pickles cut and shaped like olives. (1325). OXTAILS WITH VEGETABLES (Queues de Boeuf aux Legumes). Prepare and cook the oxtails as explained in a la Hochepot (No. 1324), only adding half a pound more of salt pork. When the meat is cooked, dish it up with the salt pork as garnishing, also carrots, turnips, celery knobs, all blanched and cooked in the broth, and two clusters of braised cabbage. Strain, skim, and reduce the broth so as to have it succulent, then pour some of it over the dish, and send the rest to the table in a sauce-boat. (1326). BEEF PALATES A LA BECHAMEL (Palais de Boeuf a la Be~chamel). Remove the black parts from twelve beef palates; soak them in warm water, adding a little salt. Place them on a slow fire and when the white skin can be detached, then drain and scrape them with a knife in order to remove properly the skin adhering to the palate. Throw them as soon as done into cold water, then drain them, and put them to cook in some broth (No. 194a), adding a bunch of parsley, finely minced carrots, onions stuck with cloves. Leave them to cook for five or six hours, then drain and lay them under a weight. Cut them in one and a quarter inch squares, then prepare a bechamel sauce (No. 409), neither too thick nor too thin, warm the palates in the sauce, season with salt and ground pepper, and stir in a piece of butter just wnen ready to serve. 476 THE EPICUREAN. (1327). BEEF PALATES BAKED, OHEVREUSE (Palais de Bceuf an Gratia a la Chevreuse). Prepare and cook the palates the same as for a la bechamel (No. 1326); put under a weight, xhen cold cut them into squares four by two and one-half inches. Cover each piece with a layer of quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and fine herbs (No. 385), roll them up, and arrange them in but- tered tin rings two and one-half inches high by one and three-quarters inches in diameter. Put them in a sautoir moistened with veal blond (No. 423). Set them in a slow oven for twenty minutes, unmold and dress crown-shaped on a dish; cover with a quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), leaving an opening in the center, smooth the surface with a knife, pour over some melted butter, and sprinkle grated parmesan cheese on top. Put this into a slow oven to brown well, and just when sending it to the table pour into the center a garnishing a la Chevreuse (No. 655). (1328). BEEF PALATES IN TORTUE (Palais de Bceuf en Tortue). Prepare the beef palates as explained in a la bechamel (No. 1326), lay them under a weight, then cut in oval-shaped pieces three and one-half by two inches, either with a knife or a pastry cutter. Cover one side with a dome-shaped layer of quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), mixing in with it a fourth of its quantity of cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Lay them in a stewpan one beside the other, the forcemeat side on top, and pour into the bottom of the pan a good half-glaze (No. 400) with Madeira, and heat slowly in a mild oven. When the forcemeat is hard to the touch, cover the surface with some Madeira sauce, return the palates to the oven for one moment to glaze, then arrange them crown-shaped round the bottom of a dish hollow in the center and raised edges. Fill the center with a garnishing made as follows: To some Madeira sauce (No. 492), add a pinch of cayenne pepper, some forcemeat quenelles, a few pickled gherkins cut olive-shaped, turned mushrooms heads (No. 118), slices of cooked veal tongue one inch in diameter by an eighth of an inch in thickness. Garnish the edge of the dish with fried egg-yolks and small larded and glazed sweet-breads (No. 1575). (1329). BIBS OF BEEF A LA BRISTED (Cotes de Boeuf a la Bristed). Choose a piece of rib, the meat of it being a pink color and well mortified. Kemove the flesh from the spine, saw off the bone at the end of each rib, bone these at the side of the breast, being careful not to injure the layer of fat covering it, then saw off the bones six inches from the spine; now fold the boned piece over the other one, and in order to keep it in shape, tie firmly with twelve rounds of string, knotting it each time it goes round the meat. Garnish the bottom of a brazier with bardes of fat pork, and slices of ham, and lay the ribs on top. Moisten with four quarts of broth (No. 194a), and half a pint of Madeira wine; set around it two carrots cut lengthwise in four, two stalks of celery, two medium sized onions with two cloves in each, one bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, mace, salt and whole peppers. Let boil slowly for three and a half to four hours, basting frequently with its own juice, and glaze a fine color. Strain the gravy, skim off the fat and reduce it with the same quantity of brown Spanish sauce (No. 414), and half a pint of Madeira wine. Lay the piece of meat on a dish, garnish around with stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842), and stuffed mushrooms (No. 650), and slip into the bottom of the dish one- third of its own sauce. Serve at the same time the rest of it in a sauce-bowl, after having mingled in a piece of good butter. (1330). RIBS OF BEEF A L'HINDOSTAN (Ootes de Bceuf a 1'Indostan), Prepare the piece of beef exactly the same as for the beef American style (No. 1331); set it in a dish with round slices of onions, sprigs of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt, mignonette, a glassful of sweet oil and a little vinegar. Leave it to marinate for two hours, turning the meat over several times in its pickle, then wrap the marinade up in several sheets of strong buttered paper, also the meat, and cook as explained in the American beef (No. 1331). Wash two pounds of rice in tepid water, blanch for one minute in boiling water, and put it into a saucepan; moisten with three pints of broth (No. 194a), add three-quarters of a pound of butter, an infusion of saffron, salt, and cayenne pepper; boil and finish cooking for three-quarters of an hour in the oven; when the rice is done, take away the sixth part, which must be put in a saucepan, adding to it some allemande sauce (No. 407), and then let it get cool. Use this rice to make small croquettes for garnishing. Lay the balance of the rice on the dish with the ribs, surrounding it with the small croquettes. Serve at the same time a sauce-boat full of thickened gravy (No. 405). BEEF. 477 (1331). EIBS OP BEEP OP TBIETY-TWO POUNDS, AMERICAN STYLE (Cotes deBoeuf de trente deux livres, a I'Americaine). These ribs lay next to the short loin, on the side near the neck; in veal and mutton this part is called the rack; the ribs are the most desirable part of the beef, and are either roasted or braised. Choose the ribs from a tender, well mortified piece of meat, saw off the projecting part of the spine. To roast on the spit, it must be wrapped up or packed in several sheets of strong, greased paper; tie with several turns of string, lay it in a cradle spit (Fig. 116) to cook, which will take about three hours and a half before a good, regular fire. Half an hour before removing from the spit, remove the paper, let brown nicely, then put it on a heater to keep warm for forty- five minutes before serving. To roast in the oven, place the ribs in a baking pan, pour on some fat, and roast it for four hours, carefully basting several times during the cooking; salt and set it on a heater to keep warm three-quarters of an hour before serving. "When sending the roast to table serve with it a sauce-bowl of good thickened gravy (No. 405) and a dish of mellow potatoes, prepared as follows: Cook some potatoes in salted water for thirty minutes, drain and press them through a colander, adding half an ounce of butter for each pound of potatoes. Form this puree into balls an inch and a half in diameter, lay them on a buttered pan, pour over some more butter, and brown them in the oven. Serve them at the same time as the roast beef. The time for cooking different sizes is: For a cut of five pounds, forty minutes, then keep in hot closet for fifteen minutes longer; for a cut of ten pounds one hour, keep in hot closet twenty minutes; for a cut of fifteen pound one hour and three-quarters, keep in hot closet twenty-five minutes; for a cut of twenty pounds, two hours and one-quarter, then keep in a hot closet thirty minutes; for twenty-five pounds, two hours and a half, then keep in a hot closet thirty-five minutes; for a cut of thirty pounds, three hours, then keep in a hot closet forty minutes. (1332). KIBS OF BEEF, OLD STYLE (Cotes de Bomf a la Vieille Mode). Cut a rib of beef with the bone, one rib to the piece, the same as a veal or mutton cutlet, lard the lean part of the meat with small strips of fat pork; season with salt, pepper, spices and chopped parsley. Put a quarter of a pound of butter into a saucepan on the fire; when the butter is hot set in the rib of beef and let it color on one side then on the other. When half done place the lid on the saucepan, and push into the oven; as soon as cooked dish up the rib, strain and skim off the fat from the gravy in the saucepan, then pour it over the meat garnished around with potatoes a la Francaise. (1333). DEVILED SPAEE EIBS OF BEEF (Cotes de Bceuf a la Diable). Use the spare bones of a piece of a cold roast rib of beef. Take out the bones without remov- ing too much of the meat around them, then season with salt and pepper, rubbing the surface over with mustard. Roll them in fresh bread raspings, drop some butter over, and broil on a slow fire; lay them on a dish, pouring over a little thickened gravy (No. 405). (1334). EOUND BUTTOCK TOP SMOTHEEED (Tendre de Tranches a I'Estouffade), Lard a buttock-top of ten to twelve pounds, with large slices of larding pork, season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Line a brazier with slices of fat pork, some raw, lean ham, sliced carrots and onions, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. Place the meat on top of this garnishing, and set around it three calves' feet, split lengthwise through the center, moisten with a pint of white wine and broth (No. 194a), boil, cover the stewpan, and reduce the stock to a glaze, which degree can easily be told when the fat becomes clarified, and the vegetables begin to attach themselves to the pan. Moisten again slowly with some more broth, cover the brazier hermetically and let simmer in a slow oven for five or six hours, according to the size of the buttock- when cooked, strain the gravy, remove the fat from it and reduce. Glaze well the meat, bone the calves' feet, set them under a weight, after filling them with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) ' When cold cut them up into square pieces, season with salt and pepper, oil and vinegar, dip them into a frying batter (No. 137), and fry to a fine color, lay the meat on a dish, garnish around with the fried pieces of calves' feet, and serve the gravy separately in a sauce-bowl. (1335). EOUND BUTTOCK TOP BAKED (Noix de Boeuf Gratinee). Have a piece of the round top braized and cold, weighing two pounds; cut it into equal sized slices not having them too thin; put in a stewpan or on a dish, piece by piece, the slices one on top of the other, and baste with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413); cover with a second dish, 478 THE EPICUREAN. and set to warm in a slow oven. Mince half a pound of cooked mushrooms, fry them in butter, drain off the latter, and add a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), four heaping tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, and two tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, also a large pinch of chopped parsley. After the meat is warm, lift out the slices one by one, lay them on a long dish one beside the other, covering each separate slice with a part of the above preparation. When the meat has been replaced into its natural shape, cover it entirely with the remainder, besprinkle over with rasped bread-crumbs, and put to bake in a moderate oven, basting it frequently with the gravy the meat was warmed in. Garnish the border with potato croquettes (No. 2782), ball-shaped, and each one an inch in diameter. (1336). BOUND BUTTOCK TOP, PAEISIAN STYLE (Noix de Boeuf a la Mode de Paris). Lard a round top of beef of from ten to twelve pounds with large lardings of pork, season with pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley; line a brazier (stewpan) with slices of pork, set the meat on top, and put the pot without its cover into a hot oven. When the meat is well colored, moisten with some broth (No. 194a), adding a garnished bunch of parsley with thyme, bay leaf, and a clove of garlic. It will take from five to six hours to cook, according to the size of the piece of meat, and after it is well done, drain off the gravy, strain it through a fine sieve, remove all the fat, and reduce it in order to obtain a rich gravy; take away one third of this. Add to the re- maining two-thirds, a puree of tomatoes (No. 730), also some espagnole sauce (No. 414). Dress the beef on a dish, surround it with small carrots cut pear shaped, and previously blanched and cooked in a very little white broth (No. 194a), so that they are reduced to a glaze, also some small glazed onions. Pour some of the gravy over the meat, and serve the rest in a separate sauce- bowl. A sirloin of beef can be used instead of the round top. (1337). BUMP OF BEEF A LA BOUOICAULT (Pointe de Culotte k la Boucicault). The rump or hip of beef is placed on the exterior side of the spine, at the lower extremity; it commences where the loin ends and finishes at the beginning of the tail. The rump of beef is the most delicate part of the hind quarter; it is excellent for boiling or braising purposes, also for corning. Bone a sixteen pound piece of the rump of beef, trim off the fat, season with salt and mi- gnonette, roll it lengthwise and tie, then set it in a brazier, and moisten to twice its height with some broth (No. 194a); heat the liquid, skim it carefully; at the first boil, remove the brazier, so that the broth only simmers gently, adding six medium carrots, three turnips, two onions, six leeks, and two stalks of celery. Let continue to cook for five hours; after three hours add two pieces of salt bacon, of one pound each, parboiled for twenty minutes; let the whole simmer for two hours or more until the meat is perfectly cooked, then strain the liquor, skim off the fat, add a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), and reduce to the consistency of thick gravy. Glaze the piece of meat; dress on a large dish, and garnish the side with knob celery braised and glazed, sauted Brussels sprouts, the bacon cut in slices dressed on each side of the sprouts, and celery; at the end slices of beef tongue (un- smoked) coated on both sides with thick soubise sauce (No. 543), breaded and fried; pour over part of the gravy, send the rest of the gravy in one or two separate sauce-boats. (1338). BUMP A LA OABEME (Pointe de Oulotte a la Careme). Bone and pare a piece of rump of beef weighing twenty pounds; remove the fat, and trim it so that it is much longer than its width; cover it with suet, roll lengthwise and tie it with fourteen rounds of the string, making a knot at each round. Put the rump of beef into a saucepan with half a pound of melted fat pork; brown slowly, turning it over frequently. Remove the meat after it is a nice color, drain off the grease, and cover the bottom of the sauce-pan with a thin layer of chopped onions and carrots, set the meat on top, moisten with a pint of broth (No. 194a) and half a bottle of sauterne wine, reduce the moisture to a glaze, and moisten again to the height of the meat with some good broth. Boil up the liquid, skim, and add a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and a clove of garlic; season with salt, pepper and cloves. Cook slowly for five hours, carefully moistening it at times with hot broth so as to keep the liquor half of the heighth of the meat; drain off the gravy, skim off the fat, and add a pint of Madeira sauce (No. 492) reduced and strained. Untie, pare, glaze and dish up the piece of meat, pour around it one-third of the sauce, garnish around with stuffed mushroom heads (No. 650), sauted lamb's sweetbreads, and rice croquettes with parmesan. Serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauce boat. BEEF. 479 (1339). EUMP OF BEEF A LA OHATELLIEE (Pointe de Oulotte de Boeuf a la Chatellier). Pieces of boiled beef are only to be served at family dinners. Select a rump of beef weighing twenty pounds, having it exceedingly fresh; bone, roll up, and tie. Lay it in a stock pot, and moisten plentifully with broth (No. 194a); boil, skim carefully, then continue to boil slowly and regularly for five hours. After it has cooked three hours, put into a net four pounds of carrots, and two pounds of turnips (both pared and cooked cork-shaped), also one onion with five cloves in it, eight leeks, a stalk of celery, and half a parsnip; set the net containing these vegetables into the stock pot, and let cook with the beef. Blanch separately a quartered cabbage, drain, put it into a separate saucepan and moisten with some very fat broth taken from the pot: let cook for an hour, and just when ready to serve, drain the meat, untie, brush over with meat glaze (No. 402) and glaze in the oven to a fine color; garnish the ends with the drained cabbage, arrange the carrots and turnips in clusters on both sides, and at one side set some mellow potatoes (No. 2799), and at the other side some stuffed peppers (No. 2768); have a horseradish sauce (No. 478) served separately; glaze the meat once more, and serve very hot. (1340). EUMP OF BEEF, BOUEGEOISE STYLE (Pointe de Oulotte de Boeuf a la Mode Bourgeoise) Have six pounds of rump of beef, or use instead a piece of sirloin; remove all the fat and sinews, lard it, following the grain of the meat, w r ith fat pork, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley. Place the meat in an earthen bowl, with sliced carrots and onions, pour over half a pint of brandy, and let macerate eight hours in a cool place, turning it over frequently. Drain and wipe off any moisture adhering thereon, then tie, and set it in a sauce- pan with some melted pork. Eoast it until the meat is well seized and browned, then moisten with half a bottle of white wine; reduce to half and add sufficient broth (No. 194a) to cover the meat, set round it two boned and blanched calf's feet, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, mace, whole peppers, three carrots and two medium onions, with four cloves in them and the brandy. Boil up, then skim, continue to boil slowly or else put in the oven to simmer for two hours and a half. Drain the meat, untie and trim it, straining the gravy through a tammy, replace the meat in the saucepan with an abundant quantity of carrots cut into three- quarter of an inch balls, then blanched, and some glazed onions; pour over the stock, also some broth, so that they be entirely covered at the bottom. Boil and finish cooking slowly in the oven, drain, glaze the meat, and set it on a dish; garnish around with the small glazed onions and the carrots; strain the juice, free it from fat, and reduce until it becomes thoroughly succu'ent, then pour a part of it over the meat, and serve the rest separately in a sauce-boat. (1341). EUMP OF BEEF, FLEMISH STYLE (Pointe de Oulotte de Bceuf a la Flamande). Have the meat prepared and cooked the same as for a la Boucicault (No. 1337;, using the pork, but no vegetables. Cut up some carrots pear-shaped, about four pounds in all, as many turnips cut into one inch in diameter balls; also a four-pound cabbage cut in four, blanch each sepaately and divide it into twenty small parts, tying each one together with a coarse thread. Lay the cabbages in a row in the center of a low saucepan, through its entire length, set in the turnips on one side and the carrots on the other, dilute with just sufficient stock from the meat to cover the vegetables, and one hour and a half before serving, place over them a heavy piece of buttered paper. Boil on a very slow fire, or in the oven, and when the vegetables are cooked, serve up the piece of meat, and set on one side of it half of the carrots and turnips, laying the other half on the other side, alternating them so as to vary the colors. Place the cabbages at the two ends, and Xv on them the salt pork cut into slices. Reduce the gravy to the consistency of a light half- glaze, moisten the meat with a part of it, and serve the rest in two sauce-boats. (1342). EUMP OF BEEF, GEEEK STYLE (Pointe de Oulotte de boeuf a la Grecque). Prepare and cook a piece of beef as explained for a la Careme (No. 1338); glaze and place around it a garnishing of tomatoes, Greek style, prepared as explained below; serve at the same time the braise stock, strained, skimmed and reduced. Stuffed Tomatoes, Greek Style. Chop very fine one pound of lean beef, veal or lamb with two ounces of beef suet; bake two large onions till quite brown, chop them up with the meat, adding pep- per, salt and a little water; cook the whole in a deep pan for two hours, then add a little butter and a lump of sugar, and continue cooking until quite dry, stirring it occasionally. Cut a piece off the top of some tomatoes, scoop out the centers, fill with the preparation, put back the covers, and 480 THE EPICUREAN. rub them over with a little flour and powdered sugar. Place the tomatoes in a pan with small bits of butter spread over each. Pass the insides removed from the tomatoes through a sieve, add to this a little butter and a tablespoonful of oil, pour this into the pan, and bake the tomatoes slowly; they must be slightly browned when done. This same meat dressing can be utilized for stuffing cabbages or egg-plant. (1343). EUMP OF BEEF, JARDINIERE (Pointe de Oulotte de Boeuf Jardiniere), Braise a rump aitchbone of beef, after it is done drain it to pare, decreasing the thickness of the layer of fat covering the meat and cut it away underneath so that the slices will not be too wide; now divide it into uniform slices not too thin; reshape the piece to its original form and lay it on a baking dish with a part of its stock strained, skimmed and mingled with a few spoonfuls of Madeira, then reduced to a half -glaze; stand it in a mild oven and glaze while basting frequently. Apart from this prepare a garnishing of braised lettuce, small braised carrots, small flowerets of cauliflower all of one size and cut up string beans, besides some thick slices of cucumbers lightly scooped out on one side: then blanched, stuffed and glazed. At the last moment remove the rump, stand it on a long dish arranging it in a half circle, then dress the garnishings symmetrically in the hollow of the half circle. Place the stuffed cucumbers the whole length on the outside of the meat, forming them into a chain; glaze the slices of beef with a brush, slip a few spoonfuls of the reduced stock in the bottom of the dish and serve the surplus well reduced separately. (1344). RUMP OF BEEF, MIROTONS A LA MENAGERE (Pointe de Bceuf Mirotons k la For mirotons take six ounces of either cold braised or cold boiled beef. Mince two ounces of onions, or one medium-sized onion, also a small shallot; fry them in butter with a whole clove of garlic and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. Dilute with a little white wine and some brown sauce (No. 414), boil for twenty minutes, then remove the bunch of herbs and garlic. Season and place the sliced beef in a stewpan; pour the prepared sauce over, and let simmer for fifteen minutes, then lay it on a dish and cover the meat with the sauce and sprinkle chopped parsley over. (1345), RUMP OF BEEF, MODERN STYLE-BRAISED (Pointe de Bomf Braise- & la Moderne), Pare an aitchbone of beef, suppressing all the bones; roll lengthwise, tie and lay it in a long saucepan with melted fat pork; let it fry slowly for half an hour, turning it over frequently; season, then take the meat from the pan, spread on the bottom of this same saucepan a thick layer of minced vegetables and onions and replace the meat over, moisten with three or four gills of broth; let reduce very slowly and wet it again with as much white wine, then reduce to a glaze. Now FIG. 305. moisten the meat to its height with broth, boil up the liquid, skimming well the fat from the sur- face and cover the saucepan; stand it in a slack oven and have the meat cook until well done which will take at least five hours. Put the meat on a baking dish to truss and pare; strain the stock, suppress its fat and add broth to it should there not be sufficient and reduce it it there be too much. Return the meat to a narrower saucepan, pour the stock over and add a glass- ful of Madeira or Marsala wine; finish to cook in a slack oven basting it at times so that it assumes a glaze; It should be tender and finely colored. When prepared to serve, drain the meat and cut it into well formed transversal slices of even thickness, dress these on a foundation of rice fastened on a long dish and surround with a garnishing prepared beforehand and having it symmetrically arranged. At the end of the dish where the narrow slices of the beef begin fasten a BEEF. 481 small fried bread support and in it stick a skewer garnished with cut vegetables and a round truffle. The garnishing around the meat consists of eight small chartreuses of vegetables, a dozen ball- shaped croquettes and a dozen thick slices of cucumbers hollowed out and stuffed, each one to be decorated with a slice of truffle cut out with a vegetable cutter. Serve at the same time as the remove a sauce-boatful of the strained, skimmed and reduced stock in which the beef was cooked. This dish is prepared to have served to the guests at a dinner party. (1346). EOAST BEEF-MIDDLE SHORT LOIN-ENGLISH STYLE (Eosbif d'Aloyau a 1'Anglaise). Cut along the vertebra and toward the top of the back a piece containing the greater part of the tenderloin, from the end rib to the hip; this part called the middle short Join, and is the choice piece for roasting; it is used in the best houses in England and France! The meat must be selected from a young and tender beef of deep crimson color and veined with slices of fat. Cut from the center a piece weighing, ten, twenty, or thirty pounds, more or less, according to the number of guests to be supplied, cut away the fat, and a piece of the flank seasoning with salt and pepper, and fold the flank over; the meat should be the same thickness throughout. Tie it well, making a knot at each turn of the string. It can be wrapped up in several sheets of buttered paper. A piece of beef roasted on the spit is far preferable to one cooked in the oven. It suffices to place it in the middle of an English cradle spit (Fig. 116), but sometimes FIG. 306. it is impossible to cook it in this way. Therefore the most practical manner is to cook it as follows: Set it in a deep pan with raised edges, and furnished with a grate slightly raised on four feet an inch and a half high (Fig. 306). Pour into the pan a few spoonfuls of fat, put the meat on the grate, and roast it in a moderate oven allowing for a short loin weighing fifteen pounds one and a half hours, one of twenty, two hours, and one of thirty, two and a half hours, forty pounds, three and a half hours, the time always to be calculated according to the regularity of the fire and the thickness of the meat; roast the meat, basting and turning it over frequently, add a little water in case the grease threatens to burn. When nearly done salt. When the short loin is nearly cooked untie, and keep in a hot closet from fifteen to forty minutes according to the size, then serve it in a large dish; it must be cut in slices lengthwise of the meat, beginning at the sirloin and then the tenderloin. Serve on very hot plates with a sauce-boat of clear gravy (No. 404) passed around at the same time. (1347). MIDDLE SHORT LOIN BRAISED A LA MESSINOISE (Aloyau BraisS a la Messinoise). Select a short loin weighing about thirty pounds; taken from a young and tender beef, and prepare it as follows: remove all the fat surrounding the tenderloin, detach the tenderloin from the chine-bone sufficiently so as to be able to saw off the chine-bone. Cut away the aitch bone from the sirloin. Prick the thick flank with the tip of a small knife; flatten it; remove the skin from the tenderloin, also the large nerve on the sirloin, trim the loin well, leaving the flank wider on the thin side ot the tenderloin. Season with salt and pepper, lard the meat with larding pork and seasoned raw ham, roll the flank over the tenderloin, covering the latter with slices of fat an inch or more in thickness; tie it up, making a knot at each turn of the string, which must be about three-quarters of an inch apart. Cover the bottom of a buttered braising pan with cut slices of carrots and onions, lay the loin on top, moisten to a quarter of its height with broth, (No. 194a) and a quarter of a bottleful of Marsala wine, adding a quarter of a pound of sliced 482 THE EPICUREAN. mushrooms. Reduce to a glaze, then moisten again to three-quarters of its heighth with the same quantity of broth and Marsala wine as before. Cook slowly for four hours, basting it fre^ quently with its own gravy, and when the meat is cooked, trim and lay it on a long dish, garnishing the sides with small macaroni Milanese timbales (No. 2988), and the ends with small round ravioles (No. 158). Strain the gravy, skim it carefully, reduce to the consistency of a quarter-glaze, then pour over the meat one-third of it, serving the rest at the same time in a sauce-boat. (1348). MIDDLE SHORT LOIN A LA NORWOOD (Aloyau a la Norwood), For thirty pounds, prepare the middle short loin the same as for No. 1347, but remove most of the fat adhering to the flank, season with salt and pepper. Put the meat in an earthen dish with some carrots, onions, thyme, bay leaf and sprigs of parsley, olive oil and lemon juice. Macerate the whole for two hours, then remove the meat without the vegetables, tie the flank over the tenderloin, making a knot at each turn of the string, leaving an interval of three-quarters of an inch between each; wrap up the marinade with the short loin in several sheets of buttered paper, place it on a roast pan. with some grease at the bottom of the pan, and some minced carrots and onions, adding a little water; roast in the oven; when the meat is nearly done, remove the paper, salt it and glaze, return to the oven to attain a nice color, then set it in a warm closet for about twenty minutes; it will take about two and a half hours to cook it. Dish the meat up, glaze it again, and garnish with quartered and peeled apples, previously placed in a buttered plate, lightly dredged with sugar and cooked in a hot oven. Add a garnishing of small potatoes cut olive- shaped, blanched and cooked in butter; a<. Prepare and cook the sirloin the same as for a la de Lesseps (No. 1352); untie, glaze and lay it on a dish, garnishing both sides with carrots and green peas, and the ends with fried celery, strain BEEF. 483 and skim off the fat from the gravy, slip a part of it under the sirloin, serving the rest in a separate sauce-bowl. Carrots and Peas, Garnishing. Cut some carrots with a vegetable cutter into balls of three- eighths of an inch in diameter; blanch and cook them in white broth (No. 194a) with a little butter and sugar; when the carrots are done, and the juice well reduced, mix in an equal quantity of peas, thickening the whole with a little half -glaze (No. 400) and fresh butter. Fried Celery. Pick out the most tender leaves in the heart of a raw celery head; cut them into thin strips the whole length of the stalk; they may be either blanched or used raw. Dip each piece in a good frying batter (No. 137), and fry to a fine color in hot fat. (1352). SIRLOIN OF BEEF 1 LA DE LESSEES (Oontrefilet de Bceuf a la de Lesseps), Prepare a piece of sirloin as follows: Remove the sirloin from a middle short rib, remove also the fat and nerves, pare it to an oblong shape, roll it over on itself as shown iu Fig. 307, after larding it with large lardons of fat pork (No. 1, Fig. 52). Cover the bottom of a braziere with slices of fat pork, lay the meat on top and moisten to three-quarters of its hight with mirepoix stock (No. 419). Boil, then push the braziere into the oven to let cook for about three hours, basting it several times in the meanwhile, also turning it around while cooking. After the sirloin is cooked, glaze it over and strain the stock through a very fine sieve; skim off the fat carefully and reduce the stock with a little espag- nole sauce (No. 414) and Madeira wine. Dish up the sirloin Fia - 307> and garnish around with one pound of rice, saute it in a quarter of a pound of butter; moisten to two-thirds higher than the rice itself with unskimmed broth strained through a silk sieve; season well with salt, a dash of cayenne, powdered saffron, nutmeg and sweet Spanish pepper. Leave the rice in the oven to cook for twenty minutes, and just when ready to serve toss it up thoroughly with a fork; now dress it on each side of the sirloin and garnish the ends with stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842). Serve the reduced stock in a separate sauce-boat. (1353), SIRLOIN OF BEEF A LA PERRIN (Oontrefilet de Bceuf k la Perrin). Prepare and cook the sirloin as explained in sirloin with Jerusalem artichokes (No. 1357); glaze and dress it on a very hot dish, garnish each side with marrow canape's, prepared as follows: Have slices of toasted bread three and a half by one and three-quarter inches; lay on them several slices of blanched marrow, sprinkle over with very finely chopped chives, and set them in the oven for one minute. Garnish the sides of the dish with these, and pour over a Madeira sauce (No. 492); arrange at the two ends tomatoes prepared as follows: Plunge very ripe and firm tomatoes into boiling water, remove the skins, cut them into four parts, squeeze them slightly and lay them in a saucepan with some good butter, salt and ground pepper; cook them on a quick fire, garnish the sirloin and serve. (1354). SIRLOIN OF BEEF A LA THIEBLIN (Oontrefilet de Boeuf a la Thieblin). Have the sirloin prepared and cooked as explained in the de Lesseps (No. 1352). Dress and glaze it, garnishing each side with red cabbage, prepared as explained below, and the ends with Sarah potatoes (No. 2802). Strain and skim the fat from the gravy, reduce it and serve it in a separate sauce-boat. Cut a red cabbage into quarters, remove the hard center, and shave the balance fine; blanch, then drain and put it into a saucepan with butter, salt, pepper, bay leaf and a medium sized onion cut in one-eighth of an inch squares; let cook slowly for three hours, stirring it several times in the meanwhile with a spoon. Takeout the bay leaf and add a piece of butter and some slices of apples previously cooked in butter. Q355). SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH BRAIN PATTIES (Contrefilet de Boeuf aux Bouche~es de Oervelles). Prepare and cook a sirloin as mentioned in (No. 1357), glaze and lay it on a very hot dish, and pour a little good gravy over. Serve separately some patties filled with brains cut in small squares combined with as much mushrooms cut the same, sautemg both in butter, season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and finish with well buttered veloute sauce (No. 415). Serve also at the same time a sauce-boat of half-glaze with Madeira (No. 400), having it well buttered. 484 THE EPICUREAN. (1356). SIRLOIN OP BEEF WITH CHIOOBY AND SCUFFLED SWEET POTATOES (Oontrefilet de Bceuf aux Endives et aux Patates Souffle"es). Take the sirloin from a short loin, remove a part of the flank so as to give it an oblong shape; also a part of the fat, and all the sinews from the covered part. Lard it nicely with pieces of larding pork (No. 1, Fig. 52); cover the bottom of a baking pan with sliced fat pork, minced onions and carrots, and lay the sirloin on top, pouring over some good fat (clarified drippings), and add a little broth, set it in a hot oven and baste frequently while cooking; a few minutes before dishing up, salt the meat. When done arrange it on a dish, pour over some thick gravy (No. 405) and garnish it around with scuffled sweet potatos (No. 2831), serve separately a dishful of chiccory with cream (No. 2729), also some thick gravy (No. 405) in a sauce-boat. (1357). SIRLOIN OF BEEF WITH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (Oontrefilet de Bceuf aux Topinambours). Lift the tenderloin from the short loin, saw the ribs from the beginning of the spine from the sirloin and remove the flat bone. Trim the sirloin into a long square shape and cook it either on an English spit, a cradle spit or else in the oven. For the latter, set the sirloin on a baking pan having a grater (Fig. 306), pour over some fat and for a sirloin weighing ten pounds allow sixty minutes for its cooking, when nearly done, salt, dress it on a dish, garnishing all around with some stewed Jerusalem artichokes (No. 2749); serve a separate sauce-boat of good thickened gravy (No. 405). (1358). SMOKED ROUND TOP OF BEEF WITH CREAM (Noix de Bceuf Fume" a la Creme). Cut up as finely as possible one-half pound of smoked beef taken from a piece of the round top; set it in a saucepan on the fire with cold water, at the first boil, drain off all the water, but should the meat still be too salty, then set it in boiling water, and drain it well a few moments after. Put the well drained meat into another saucepan, with the addition of some cream, let simmer for a few minutes, then thicken it with a little fecula or corn starch diluted in cold water or milk. Cook again for a few minutes, season with salt, a dash of cayenne pepper, and finish with a little fresh butter. To thicken smoked beef with cream a little bechamel sauce (No. 409) may be used instead of fecula. (1359). SALISBURY STEAK (Bifteck a la Salisbury). Put two pounds of tenderloin of beef in the chopping machine (Fig. 173); this machine is far superior to any other, for in chopping the meats the sinews and other hard parts collect at the bottom of the machine, on the shelf; the meat arising to the surface is the best part; take this out, leaving the hard, fibrous pieces at the bottom. Mold the Salisbury steak in a ring three- quarters of an inch high by three inches in diameter or else in a small empty goose-liver terrine (No. 10). These raw steaks are frequently served without any seasoning or else seasoned and broiled very rare. (1360) BEEF STEAK, HAMBURG STYLE (Bifteck a la Hambourgeoise). One pound of tenderloin of beef free of sinews and fat; chop it up on a chopping block with four ounces of beef kidney suet, free of nerves and skin or else the same quantity of marrow; add one ounce of chopped onions fried in butter without attaining color; season all with salt, pep- per and nutmeg, and divide the preparation into balls, each one weighing four ounces; flatten them down, roll them in bread-crumbs and fry them in a saute 1 pan in butter. When of a fine color on both sides, dish them up pouring a good thickened gravy (No. 405) over. (1361). HAMBURG STEAK A LA TARTARS (Bifteck de Hambourg a la Tartare). Hamburg steaks are made with lean and tender beef, either the tenderloin or sirloin. Chop up with a knife on a chopping block twelve ounces of raw beef free of all fat and nerves; season with salt and pepper, add half a medium onion cut in small one-eighth of an inch squares or else have it finely chopped; form it into a ball and flatten. These steaks are generally eaten raw. For cooked see the Hamburg steak No. 1360. For steaks a la Tartare, add half a finely cut up green pepper or else it can be cut in small squares. After the steak is formed into a flattened ball make a hole in the center and break into it one very fresh egg, or else the yolk only. BEEF. 485 Fm. 308. (1362). POETEEHOUSE STEAK (Bifteck d'Aloyau). Select a good, fleshy middle short loin, the meat being pink and very tender. Cut slices an inch and three-quarters thick, in the tenderloin and sirloin, sawing away the spine bone from the rib. Cut off the fat and sinews, and trim it nicely to the shape of the accompanying plate; after trimming it should weigh two pounds and a quarter. Season with salt and pepper, and baste over with oil or clarified butter, then broil on a slow, well sustained fire for fifteen minutes if desired rare, eighteen minutes if properly done, and well cooked, twenty minutes, only turning it over once in the middle of cooking. When finished, lay the steak on a very hot dish, covering it with maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581). It is easy to find out when the meat is done. Press lightly in the center with the first finger, and if the meat be soft, and offering a slight resistance, then it is cooked rare; to have it done properly it must be firm, without resisting as much to the touch; and to be well done, it must be firm, and offer resistance. Practice alone can teach how to cook by the touch, which differs according to the quality of the meat. (1363). DOUBLE POETEEHOUSE STEAK A LA SANPOED (Bifteck d'Aloyau Double a la Sanford) Mr. Wright Sanford, one of the most fervent disciples of the house of Delmonico, and an acknowledged epicurean, was specially fond of ordering this dish. Much care should be given to its cooking which must operate slowly, while maintaining the same degree of heat throughout, so that it thoroughly reaches the steak. Cut through all the thickness of the short loin a slice two and a quarter inches thick; it should weigh after being trimmed, four pounds and a half. Season with salt, cover with oil, and broil the steak on a slow, but well sustained fire for twenty-four minutes if needed rare, twenty-eight minutes to be properly done, and thirty-two minutes if desired well done. Turn the meat over when, half cooked, dress the steak on a very hot dish, garnish the top with ribbons of horseradish (No. 98), and pour around a Madeira sauce (No. 492), well buttered with some maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581). (1364). EIB STEAK A LA BEEOY (Entrecote a la Bercy). Take the chuck-ribs of prime beef, these lying under the shoulder. Bone and cut in slices an inch and a half in thickness. This meat requires to be beaten in order to be made tender, then lay it either in oil or melted butter; season with salt and mignonette pepper, and broil on a very slow fire for twenty or twenty-five minutes. When the meat is done, set it OR a very hot dish, and pour over the following sauce: Put into a saucepan two medium sized finely chopped shallots, some finely chopped marrow, the same quantity of butter and as much meat glaze (No. 402), salt, pepper, lemon juice and chopped parsley. Let cook rapidly on a very hot fire for one minute, place the steak on a very warm dish, and pour the Bercy sauce over. (1365). EIB STEAK A LA EOYEE (Entrecote a la Eoyer). Cut from the thin covered part of a rib piece slices which whei pared will weigh one pound and a quarter; season them with salt, rub them over with oil, and broil them over a rather quick fire from eighteen to twenty-two minutes. Dress them on a dish, and cover with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), into which incorporate a piece of good butter and some chopped up truffles. Garnish around the steak with stuffed mushroom heads (No. 650). (1366). EOUND STEAK WITH WATEE-CEESS (Bifteck de Noix de Bceuf au Oresson). FlG - m Cut from the round top of a young beef, the meat being pink and tender slices of three-quarters of an inch thick. Season them with salt and peppers, coat them over with sweet oil, and broil on a moderate, well sustained fire for eight or ten minutes; as 486 THE EPICUREAN. soon as they are done set them on a very hot dish, and pour over a layer of maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581). Wash well some fresh water-cress, drain, and season it with salt and vinegar, garnish round the dish with it. (1367). KUMP STEAK A LA VILLAGEOISE (Bifteok de Pointe Culotte a la Villageoise). Only young beef that have never performed any labor can supply tender rump steaks. Cut transverse slices of three-quarters of an inch thickness from a rump of beef; season them with salt and pepper, and baste over with oil or melted butter; lay them on the grid- iron and broil over a brisk fire from twelve to fourteen minutes. Chop up some boiled, peeled, and cold potatoes, put them in a saucepan with butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg and sweet cream; boil them once, then let simmer until the ingredients have sufficient consistency. Butter the inside of a baking dish, line it with a layer of these potatoes, besprinkle over with bread crumbs and grated parmesan cheese, and put to bake in a very hot oven. Glaze the rump steak with meat glaze (No. 402), and serve it on top of the potatoes. (1368). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK OF TWELVE OUNCES, PLAIN (Bifteck de Oontrefilet de douze Onces, Nature). Cut slices an inch and a quarter thick from a sirloin; beat them to flatten them down to one inch, trim nicely, after which they should weigh twelve ounces; salt on both sides, spread them over with oil or melted butter, and broil them on a steady fire; it will take about eight minutes to have them very rare, FIG 310 ten to have them properly done, and twelve if desired well done; set them on a hot dish with a little clear gravy (No. 404) or maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581). (1369). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK A LA BEARNAISE (Bifteck de Oontrefilet a la Be~arnaise). Prepare and cook the beefsteak as for the plain (No. 1368); apart from the cooking described by minutes in that number, the time for broiling depends entirely upon the thickness of the meat, and the intensity of the fire. In order to judge whether the meat be done to the touch when it offers a certain resistance; this can easily be learned after once being accustomed to broiling. Dress the beefsteak over a Bearnaise sauce (No. 433); glaze the top with meat glaze (No. 402) using a brush for the purpose. (1370). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK A LA BORDELAISE (Bifteck de Oontrefilet a la Bordelaise). When the beefsteak has been cooked as described in the plain (No. 1368) lay it on a dish and cover with Bordelaise sauce (No. 436). (1371). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK A LA BORDELAISE WITH MARROW (Bifteck de Contrefilet a la Bordelaise et a la Moelle). Cook a small sirloin steak as for No. 1368, then arrange it on a very hot dish and cover with a sauce prepared as follows: Cut four ounces of beef marrow into quarter-inch thick slices, plunge them into boiling water, then drain. Dress them on the steak and cover with a Bordelaise sauce (No. 436). (1372). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK A LA BORDELAISE WITH MARROW AND TRUFFLES (Bifteck de Oontrefilet a la Bordelaise a la Moelle et aux Truffes). After cooking the steak the same as a plain one (No. 1368) lay it on a very hot dish and cover with the following sauce: Cut three ounces o f marrow into quarter inch thick slices, and one ounce of truffles in thin slices. Parboil the marrow and drain it off; heat the truffles in a little Madeira and half-glaze (No. 400). Over the steak arrange the marro\\ and truffles one inter- calated with the other; cover with Bordelaise sauce (No. 436) and serve. BEEF. 4S7 (1373). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK, ANCIENT STYLE (Bifteok de Oontrefilet al'Ancienne). After the sirloin is cooked as in the plain (No. 1368) lay it on a dish, besprinkling it over with some anchovy butter (No. 569). Form on top a crown of anchovy fillets garnishing the interior with capers, and set round the steak a garnishing of potato balls, each an inch in diameter, fried three quarters in hot fat, and finishing cooking in the oven with some butter; when done drain off the butter, and season with salt, chopped parsley and lemon juice. (1374). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK, WITH BUTTER AND COOKED PINE HERBS (Bifteok de Oontrefilet au Beurre aux et Fine Herbes Ouites). After the beefsteak is cooked as explained in plain (No. 1368) dish it up and cover the top with a layer of butter and cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Garnish around with fresh green water- cresses, seasoning it with salt and vinegar. (1375). DELMONIOO SIRLOIN STEAK OP TWENTY OUNCES, PLAIN (Bifteck de Contrefilet Del- monico de Vingt Onces, Nature). Cut from a sirloin slices two inches in thickness; beat them to flatten them to an inch and a half thick, trim nicely; they should now weigh twenty ounces each; salt them on both sides, baste them over with oil or melted butter, and broil them on a moderate fire for fourteen minutes if desired very rare; eighteen to be done properly, and twenty-two to be well done. Set them on a hot dish with a little clear gravy (No. 404) or maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581). (1376). DELMONICO SIRLOIN STEAK A LA PERIGUEUX (Bifteck de Contrefilet Delmomco a la Perigueux). After cooking the steak the same as for plain (No. 1375), lay it over a Perigueux sauce (No. 517), into which mix the third of its quantity of small chicken quenelles, forced through a cornet to three-eighths of an inch in diameter, glazing it with meat glaze. (1377). DELMONICO SIRLOIN STEAK, SPANISH STYLE (Bifteck de Contrefilet Delmonico a 1'Espagnole). Prepare and cook the sirloin steak as described for plain (No. 1375). Chop up separately a quarter of a pound of lean beef free of sinews, and the same quantity of fresh pork. Mix these together with a tablespoonful of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and one egg-yolk; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, then divide the preparation into four parts; roll it on a floured table into balls, flatten them to half an inch thick, then dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them FIG. 311. in bread-crumbs; smooth this with the blade of a knife; plunge them into very hot fat for two minutes to brown the outsides. Drain and lay them one beside the other in a sautoir moistening them to their height with half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and let simmer for three-quarters of an hour, basting them frequently. Brown in oil four ounces of minced onions, add to it four ounces ot finely minced green peppers, one clove of garlic, half a pound of peeled tomatoes cut in four and pressed; let cook together and reduce with a little brown sauce (No. 414) and gravy (No. 404). Lay the garnishing on the bottom of a dish, the glazed steak on top, and the hash balls over, one overlapping the other. U378). SIRLOIN STEAK POR GOURMETS; EXTRA FORTY OUNCES (Bifteck de Oontrefilet des Gourmets ; Extra Quarante Onces). Cut from a good thick sirloin of beef, slices, each one being four to five inches thick; beat to flatten them down to three inches, then trim them carefully, salt them on both sides, cover with 488 THE EPICUREAN either clarified butter or melted marrow, and place in a double gridiron and broil them over a moderate fire for twenty minutes if desired rare, twenty-six minutes to have them properly done, and thirty minutes when needed to be well done. Lay them on top of a gravy prepared as follows: Have two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped shallot, fry it colorless in three ounces of butter, add some FIG. 312. melted glaze (No. 402), stir in four ounces of fine butter, a teaspoon ful of the best tarragon vinegar, chopped parsley, a dash of cayenne pepper, and two ounces of beef marrow cut into half inch squares. When the marrow is warm, pour it on the dish, lay the extra size steak on top, glaze it with meat glaze (No. 402), and garnish around with gastronome potatoes (No. 2789). (1379). TENDEELOIN OF BEEF. HOW TO PEEPAEE (Pour Preparer le Filet de Bcenf), The tenderloin is found in the inside of the short loin in the hollow formed under the spinal bone. Detach the tenderloin from the spinal bone of a middle short loin by following the bone with the knife; then displace it from the flat bone and from the spinal bone, scraping it off so that no meat remains on the bones. Remove the fat and large nerves and with a thin knife remove the hard skin covering the tenderloin. It is to be served whole or else cut up. Use the middle slices for Chateaubriands; for ten ounce tenderloin steaks use on each side of the Chateaubriand, for mignons, noisettes and tournedos the thin end and the other end for grenadins; the head part is also used for mincing, for Salisbury steaks, Hamburg steaks, etc. (1380). CHATEAUBEIAND, PLAIN TWENTY OUNCES (Chateaubriand Nature Vingt Onces). The name of Chateaubriand is given to the piece of meat taken from the middle of a large tenderloin. After it has been nicely trimmed, the Chateaubriand should weigh twenty ounces, or a pound and a quarter. Flatten it down to the thickness of an inch and a quarters, put it to cook on a broiler over a slow but regular fire for sixteen minutes if needed exceptionally rare, eigthteen minutes when properly done, and twenty for well done. Serve on a hot dish with maitre d'hotel butter or gravy. (1381). CEATEAUBEIAND, COLBEET SAUCE (Chateaubriand Sauce Colbert). Season a Chateaubriand with some salt, brush it over with oil, and broil on a slow, regular fire. Lay it on a dish, and garnish the two ends with potatoes cut olive-shaped and fried in butter, and cover with the following sauce: Reduce half a pint of white wine with a tea- spoonful of meat glaze (No. 402), and half a pint of espagnole (No. 414). When well reduced, strain it through a sieve, boil again, and when ready to serve, incorporate therein a quarter of a pound of butter, some chopped parsley, and the strained juice of a lemon. (1382). OHATEAUBEIAND MAITEE D'HOTEL SAUCE, THICKENED (Chateaubriand Sauce Maitre d'Hotel Liee). Prepare and cook a Chateaubriand as for No. 1380, lay it on a dish; reduce some veloute (No. 415) with white wine; add a little meat glaze (No. 402), and incorporate into it when ready to serve some maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581). Cover the whole Chateaubriand with this, and gar- nish the dish with potatoes prepared as follows: Cut up some potatoes into large six-sided olive shapes; first blanch, then finish to cook in clarified butter or else in lard over a good fire, keeping them covered until they become soft and browned; drain off the fat and put in some small pieces of fresh butter, salt and chopped parsley, serve as a garnishing. FIG. 313. BEEF. 489 (1353). DOUBLE CHATEAUBRIAND, TWO AND A HALF POUNDS WITH SOUFFLED POTATOES (Chateaubriand Double de Deux Livres et Demie aux Pommes Souffle'es). Season well the meat with salt, rub sweet oil over both sides, and broil on a slow, regular fire; for rare, twenty minutes; properly done, twenty-six minutes, and well done, thirty minutes. It is preferable to broil it on a double-hinged broiler without pressing it down, and turning over when half cooked. When done, set it on a large hot dish, spread over some maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581), letting the dish be sufficiently large to contain a quantity of souffled potatoes (No. 2808). It is better to serve a single Chateaubriand, for the excessive thickness of a double one renders the cooking of it doubtful, yet it is a dish epicureans frequently call for. (1384). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN PLAIN FIVE OUNCES (Grenadins de Filet de Bceuf Nature de cinq onces Chaque). From a raw and well trimmed tenderloin of beef, cut lengthwise of the meat, half heart shaped slices, five inches long by two and a half inches wide, and half an inch thick. Beat them lightly, trim evenly, and lard them on one side with rows of fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52). Season with salt and pepper. Put some fat or clarified butter in a saute-pan, and when very hot, lay in the grenadins on their larded side; four minutes later when a fine color, turn them over; it will take about eight or ten minutes to cook them rare. Serve on a hot dish, and pour some clear gravy over (No. 404). Fio. 314. (1385). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN A LA BEAUMAROHAIS (Grenadins de Filet de Boeufak Beaumarchais). Cook the prepared grenadins the same as for plain (No. 1384); drain off half the butter, and to the remainder add a coffeespoonful of finely chopped, blanched, and drained shallot, fry this color- less, then put in a little veloute (No. 415), and thicken with egg-yolks; butter well with good, fresh butter, and add some meat glaze (No. 402), and lemon juice; strain through a tammy; now mix into the sauce a little chopped parsley. Pour the sauce on the dish intended for serving; the grenadins, and arrange them either in a straight row or in a circle; surround with as many croustades as there are grenadins, these croustades to be filled with mushrooms stewed in cream. Serve a slightly thickened half-glaze sauce (No. 413) separately. (1386). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN A LA BONIFACE (Grenadins de Filet de Boeuf a la Boniface). Prepare and cook the grenadins as explained in plain grenadins (No. 1384), drain them on a cloth, lay them on a dish, and cover them with a bordelaise sauce with mushrooms (No. 436), garnishing the dish with marrow fritters (No. 682). (1387). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN A LA HALEVY (Grenadins de Filet de Boeuf a la Hale"vy). Prepare and cook the grenadins as for No. 1384. Plunge some good, sound tomatoes in boiling water, peel them, cut them crosswise in two, squeeze them without injuring their shape, and season them with pepper and salt. Heat some oil in an omelet pan, and when very hot, put in the halved tomatoes; cook them, then arrange them crown-shaped on a dish, lay a grenadin on each tomato and garnish around with stuffed mushrooms (No. 650). Serve a well reduced and well buttered half-glaze sauce separately (No. 413). (1388). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN AS VENISON, POIVRADE SAUCE (Grenadins de Filet de Boauf en Ohevreuil, Sauce Poivrade). Trim some slices of tenderloin, cut lengthwise, and shape them in half-heart forms. Marinate them for three days in a cooked and cold marinade (No. 114). Drain and dry them, then fry in an omelet pan in hot clarified fat on a very quick fire. When .done rare, drain and lay them on slices ot bread fried in butter, cut the same size and shape. Pour over a poivrade sauce (No. 522.) 490 THE EPICUREAN. (1389). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN MARC AURELE (Grenadins de Filet de Bceuf a la Marc Aurele). Prepare a pate-a-chou (No. 132); spread from a pocket on a baking sheet pieces an inch and a quarter in diameter; when they are cooked they should be about two inches in diameter. Egg them twice with a soft brush and dredge over the half of them some grated parmesan cheese, and the other half finely chopped truffles. Bake them in a slow oven until dry. Kemove them from the baking sheet, and cut off all the bottoms. Fill those covered with cheese, with small macaroni cut in quarter inch lengths mixed with tongue cut in quarter inch squares, season and add a litttle veloute (No. 415), some butter, mignonette pepper and nutmeg, then toss in a saucepan without using a spoon. Fill those covered with truffles with a little mace'doine of vegetables cut ball-shaped, each a quarter of an inch in diameter. Push through a cornet at the edge of the opening of the choux a row of chicken forcemeat (No. 89). Restore the bottoms and fasten them on with chicken forcemeat, lay them on a plate in the oven for one minute to poach the forcemeat. Cook the grenadins the same as for plain (No. 1384); when done, drain and arrange them in a row, garnishing one side of the dish with maccaroni and parmesan choux, and the other with the macedoine and truffles. Serve a Colbert sauce (No. 451) at the same time. (1390). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN, PALADIO (Grenadins de Filet de Bceuf a la Paladio). Cut lengthwise from a tenderloin some slices half an inch in thickness, and shape them like half hearts, then lard them with small pieces of larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52). Garnish the bottom of a sautoir with slices of bacon, place on top finely cut onions and carrots, and set the grenadins above. Moisten with Beef stock (No. 194a), cover the saucepan, and reduce until dry. Moisten again, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, then set it in the oven to cook, basting it frequently during the time. Glaze them a fine color, then have pieces of cooked ham the same shape, fry them in butter with sliced apples. Arrange the cooked ham on a dish, put grenadins on top, reduce the gravy, strain, and remove the fat, mixing in some espagnole (No. 414) reduced with Madeira wine, and pour it over the grenadins. Garnish the dish with the slices of fried apples. (1391). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN, PREVILLOT (Grenadins de Filet de Bceuf I la Previllot). Prepare and cook the grenadins as for plain grenadins (No. 1384); arrange them on top of some half heart-shaped croutons of bread fried in butter, the same shape and size as the grenadins, and cover them with a Previllot salpicon (No. 749). (1392). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN WITH CELERY, BECHAMEL (Grenadins de Filet de Bceuf an Oeleri, Bechamel). Prepare and cook the grenadins, as for plain (No. 1384). Cut in quarter of an inch squares some tender and white celery; blanch it in plenty of salted water, drain and dry well; then fry them in butter without browning. Moisten with broth (No. 194a), and when cooked, mix in a little bechamel (No. 409), and fresh cream. Reduce, pour it on a dish, and arrange the glazed grenadins on top. (1393). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN WITH ROUND POTATOES, VALOIS SAUCE (Grenadins de Filet de Bceuf aux Pommes de Terre en Boules a la Sauce Valois). Arrange and cook the grenadins as for plain (No. 1384), glaze and lay them on a piece of poached quenelle forcemeat shaped like a half heart. Cover with a Valois sauce (No. 554), surround the grenadins with round potatoes seven-eighths of an inch in diameter, previously fried in butter and seasoned with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and lemon juice. (1394). GRENADINS OF TENDERLOIN WITH SWEET PEPPERS (Grenadins de Filet de Boeuf aux Piments Doux). Proceed and cook the grenadins as for plain (No. 1384), glaze and lay them on a dish, garnish- ing it with sauted sweet peppers prepared as follows: Plunge the peppers in hot frying fat, remove the peel covering the outside by rubbing with a dry cloth; cut them in two lengthwise, and fry them in oil, turning them over carefully while cooking. When done season with salt, pepper and a clove of garlic crushed, drain them from the oil, and finish with a little meat glaze (No. 402), butter, lemon juice and fine herbs. Preserved sweet peppers can always be obtained ; it is only necessary to drain them, fry them in butter or oil, adding a little garlic, lemon juice and fine herbs. BETCF. 491 (1395). MINCED TENDEELOIN OP BEEF A LA ANDREWS (Emmce" de Filet de Boeuf a la Andrews). Pare and trim well all the fat from off a tenderloin, cut it lengthwise to obtain escalops or small slices an inch and a half in diameter by an eighth of an inch in thickness, the weight to be one ounce. Prepare the same quantity of veal kidney; cut it in pieces of the same thickness and one inch in diameter. Put an ounce of butter in a sautoir and when very hot and slightly browned, add the tenderloin and afterward the veal kidney. Cook them on a quick fire, seasoning with salt, pepper and lemon juice; serve on a very hot dish. (1396). MINCED TENDEKLOIN A LA BEEKMAN (Emincfi de Filet de Boeuf a la Beekman). Cut into thin slices six ounces of cold tenderloin of beef, either roasted or braised. Place in a saucepan a few spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 414), boil and skim; add a pinch of cayenne pepper, a little Worcestershire sauce, half as much mushroom catsup, then the slices of beef. Cover the saucepan, set it in the oven, but do not allow the liquid to boil, as it hardens the meat, then when the tenderloin is quite warm, serve it lengthwise on a dish. Strain the sauce through a fine strainer, covering the meat with it. (1397). MINCED TENDEELOIN, CREOLE STYLE, (Emince" de Filet de Bceuf a la Crlole\ Cut six ounces of tenderloin of beef lengthwise, shape the slices into escalops an inch and a half in diameter, by an eighth of an inch in thickness. Saute them in butter, when ready take the meat out and keep it warm between two dishes, adding beef stock (No. 194a) with part of its fat, some halved tomatoes peeled, pressed and fried in butter, also some green peppers sliced fine and fried in butter. Season highly, arrange the minced meat in a border of rice boiled in salted water to which half an ounce of butter has been added, and serve. (1398). MINCED TENDEELOIN OF BEEF WITH POTATO CEOQUETTES (Emmce" de Filet de Bceuf aux Croquettes de Pommes). Cut into thin slices the best part of a cold roast tenderloin, to weigh about four ounces, then pare them to make them of an even size. Heat some butter in a small saucepan, add to it two teaspoonf uls of finely chopped onions, also four spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms. When the mois- ture from the mushrooms has evaporated wet them with four spoonfuls of Marsala wine, reduce again to half, then thicken with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Heat the slices of beef between two dishes with the addition of a little clear gravy (No. 404), not allowing it to boil. If the tenderloin was previously braised instead of roasted, then the meat should be cut thicker, and heated in the sauce for twenty five minutes without boiling; arrange it on a dish either in one or two rows, and cover with the sauce. Surround the meat with potato croquettes (No. 2782), formed into balls of an inch in diameter and flattened. (1399). MINIONS OF TENDEELOIN OF BEEF PLAIN (Mignons de Filet de Bceuf Nature). Trim carefully a tenderloin of beef, remove all the fat and nerves, then cut it into slices each one weighing five ounces; beat them lightly to have them all of the same thickness, then pare and cut them into round shapes. Salt on both sides, dip them in melted butter or sweet oil, and broil on a moderate, well-sus- tained fire; they should take six minutes if desired rare, eight minutes to have them properly done, and ten minutes if required well done. When half cooked turn them over and finish on the other side. Dress on a hot dish and pour some FIG. 315. clear gravy (No. 404) over. (1400). MINIONS OF TENDEELOIN OF BEEF A LA BAILLAED (Mignons de Filet de Bceuf a la Baillard). First cook the minions the same as for the plain (No. 1399); dress them flat on a very hot dish; on each minion lay a piece of foies-gras removing it from the terrine with a spoon. Cover the whole with good Madeira sauce (No. 492) to which has been added truffles cut in fine Julienne and fresh mushrooms. (1401). MINIONS OF TENDEELOIN OF BEEF A LA CECEEON (Mignons de Filet de Bceuf a la Ohe~ron). Prepare and cook the minions as explained in the plain (No. 1399). Cover the bottom of a dish with a bearnaise sauce (No. 433), sprinkle over with some chopped parsley, and lay the minions on top, and on each one set an artichoke bottom slightly smaller than the minion, and previously cooked and sauted in butter. Garnish with a little macedoine thickened with veloute (No. 415), and fine butter, and season well. 492 THE EPICUREAN. (1402), MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OP BEEF A LA DUMAS (Mignons de Filet de Bceuf a la Dumas), When the minions are prepared and cooked as for plain (No. 1399), lay each one on a round slice of unsmoked but cooked beef tongue; let these be the same diameter as the minion and three- sixteenths of an inch in thickness. Reduce a veloute (No. 415) and soubise sauce (No. 543) to half, and when ready to serve thicken it with egg-yolks, raw cream, and a piece of fresh butter. Cover the minions with this sauce, strew over grated fresh bread-crumbs and grated parmesan cheese, and sprinkle with clarified butter; brown in a very hot oven or under a gas salamander (Fig. 123), and garnish the dish with ham croquettes shaped like small crescents, then serve. Ham Croquettes. Have a quarter of a pound of cooked ham cut in one-eighth squares. A quarter of a pound of mushrooms cut the same dimensions from which you will have pressed out all the moisture, add a little reduced bechamel (No. 409), and season with pepper and nutmeg (no salt). Put on the fire, and when cooked lay them on a dish to get cold, then divide the prepara- tion into balls each an inch in diameter; roll them longways and shape them into crescents, dip them in beaten eggs, roll them in grated bread-crumbs and fry them in hot fat a fine color. (1403 \ MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA FEARING (Mignons de Filet de Bceuf a la Fearing). After the minions are prepared and cooked the same as for plain (No. 1399), lay them on round flat poached quenelles of chicken forcemeat mixed with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), the same size as the minions, and a quarter of an inch thick. Glaze the minions with meat glaze (No. 402), and garnish around with a garnishing prepared as follows: Put some financiere sauce (No. 464) into a saucepan, add balls of game forcemeat half an inch in diameter, some olives, mushrooms, artichoke bottoms divided into six pieces, a few cocks'-combs, or beef palates cut the same shape as the cocks'-combs, cock's-kidneys, and whole truffles. (1404). MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA MEYERBEER (Mignons de Filet de Boeuf a la Meyerbeer). The tenderloin is to be prepared and cooked the same as for plain (No. 1399), and when done properly prepare a Piedmontese risot (No. 2981). Garnish the center of a dish with this, piling it high and dome-shaped; then glaze the minions, and arrange them around the rice. Divide some lamb or mutton kidneys in two, having half a kidney for each minion; season these with salt, and pepper, then saute" them in some butter on a hot fire. When done, drain off the butter, add a little fresh butter and some meat glaze (No. 402), and toss the kidneys in this. Lay half a kidney on top of each minion, serving at the same time, but separately, a sauce-boatful of sauce Perigueux (No. 517). (1405). MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA SALVINI (Mignons de Filet de Boeuf a la Salvini). Prepare and cook the minions as for plain (No. 1399), lay them on a dish, glaze them, and place on top of each minion a slice of plainly cooked duck's liver the same shape, but smaller than the minion, and on top of each piece of liver, a slice of black truffle. Cover the minions with an allemande sauce (No. 407), with parmesan cheese, adding to it some minced mushrooms and chopped parsley. Brown in a very hot oven or under a gas salamander (Fig. 123). (1406). MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA STANLEY (Mignons de Filet de Bceuf a la Stanley). After preparing and cooking the minions as described in plain minions (No. 1399), glaze them with a brush, and lay them on a dish. Remove the peel from several bananas, cut them lengthwise in two, and cut each half across; roll the pieces in flour, and plunge them to fry in very hot oil. Fry in butter without browning, one small onion weighing an ounce and chopped up very fine; moisten this with one gill of cream, reduce and strain through a sieve, then thicken it with egg-yolks stirred up in crevith a quarter of a pound of unsmoked bacon; let this fry lightly, then add the veal and fry together to a fine color; besprinkle with four spoonfuls of flour, and brown it slightly with the meat, then moisten with stock (No. 194a), season with salt, whole peppers, a garnished bunch of parsley with thyme and bay leaf and two cloves; cook for two hours before adding sixty small onions, and continue the cooking until both the onions and meat are done; now transfer the onions and meat into another saucepan with about thirty medium-sized cooked mushrooms. Skim the fat from the sauce; reduce and season it properly, thicken it with three egg-yolks diluted in a little ream, and finish with fresh butter and lemon juice; strain through a tammy, pour it over the meat, kept warm in a bain-marie until needed. Dress the meat, with the onions and mushrooms around and pour the sauce over the whole. (1539). VEAL PALATES A LA SEVIGNE' (Palais de Veau a la S6vigne). Soak well six veal palates for six hours, then parboil them in boiling water, afterward throwing them into cold water. Scrape the palates with the dull edge of a knife, carefully remov- ing all the white skin from the top as well as the black one found underneath, and wash again in several waters. Braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) for two hours; set them under a weight, pare them oval-shaped and cover with a quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) dredging the surface with chopped truffles. Place the palates in a buttered sautoir and heat them on a moderate fire; dress in a circle around an empty croustade and fill the croustade with a preparation of supreme sauce, escalops of foies-gras, truffles and mushrooms. Serve more of the supreme sauce (No. 547) sep- arately. (1540). VEAL PALATES, EPICUREAN STYLE (Palais de Veau a rEpicurienne). Fry one coffeespoonful of finely chopped blanched shallots in very hot butter; add to it a few mushroom heads and braised lamb's noisettes free from fat; fry together for a minute, seasoning with salt and prepared red pepper (No. 168). Moisten with cream and a little bechamel (No. 409) then lay in the veal palates prepared as for a la Sevigne (No. 1539) and cut round-shape an inch and a quarter in diameter and let simmer for five minutes; finish with a little butter and serve very hot. (1541). QUARTER OF VEAL, SCOTCH STYLE (Quartier de Veau a 1'Ecossaise). Choose a haunch of veal from a very white calf; pare and saw off a piece of the shine bone and trim like a leg of mutton, then wrap the meat up in several sheets of paper; lay it in an English cradle spit (Fig. 116), and let cook before a moderate fire from one hour and a half to two hours; unwrap and finish cooking until a fine color; salt it over, remove it from the spit and pare the end bone. Dress the meat on a large oval dish, decorate it with a paper frill cut out and curled, pour over some clear gravy (No. 404), and garnish around with boiled carrots, turnips, and string beans; serve gravy in a sauce-boat separately. (1542). RACK OP VEAL A L'ALBANI (OarrS de Veau a 1'Albani). Take the covered ribs of a rack of veal, cut the spine out entirely, bone the ribs to within two and a half inches of the spine, and saw them off. Pare the top of the rack, lard it with salt fat pork lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52), then roll the flap over, tie and wrap it in buttered paper; put it in the oven to roast; a little before serving time unwrap the rack, glaze, brown, and dress it, garnishing around with Dauphine potatoes (No. 2783). Serve a cream bechamel sauce separately (No. 411). (1543). ROUND BOTTOM FRIOANDEAU OF VEAL GLAZED WITH GRAVY (Sous-noix Fricandeau Glacee au Jus). A fricandeau is to be prepared either with the kernel, or round bottom; under all circum- stances the meat must not be cut too thick, then beat it with a damp cleaver in order to flatten it even more while breaking the fibers. Lard the meat with larding pork (No. 2, Fig. 52) on its smoothest side; cover the bottom of a deep sautoir with fragments of the pork, sliced vegetables and onions, and aromatic herbs; lay the meat on top of this slock, baste it over with melted butter or good dripping, salt, and let cook on a moderate fire while watching carefully, moisten it by degrees with stock (No. 194a), allowing it to fall slowly to a glaze but without letting VEAL. 521 it brown; then moisten to the height of the larded side, and at the first boil cover the sautoir, and push it into a slow oven to finish cooking the meat, while basting it frequently, which will take an hour and a half to two hours, drain off the gravy and lay the meat on a hot dish; strain the gravy, free from all its fat, reduce properly and pour it over the meat. (1544), BOUND BOTTOM OF VEAL, MINCED, SICILIAN (Sous-noix de Veau Emincg a la Sicilienne). Minces are made with cold meats cut in slices a quarter of an inch thick; pare them either round or oval, suppressing the fat and trimming them neatly. Dress either in a circle or in a straight line, pour over some clear gravy (No. 404) and cover over with another smaller dish, then heat the whole in a slack oven. The meat must be thoroughly warmed without allowing the liquid to boil; drain this off and serve with a Sicilian sauce (No. 542). (1545). SADDLE OF VEAL AND CHOPPED LETTUOE-LAKDED (Belle de Veau Piqued aux Laitues Hacliees). To prepare this dish choose a fine saddle not too fat; pare by removing the skin from the large fillet or loin; shorten the flap and suppress the minion fillets. Lard the large fillet or loin with larding pork (No. 2, Fig. 52) and lay it in a deep baking pan, the bottom covered with FIG. 330. pork and veal fat; besprinkle the saddle plentifully with butter, cover it with a buttered paper and place it in a moderate oven to cook for an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, basting it frequently with the fat from the pan; should this fat threaten to burn, add to it a few spoonfuls of good veal blond (No. 423). When the meat is of a fine color and well seized, drain, pare the edges and dress it on a long dish; dissolve the glaze in the pan with a little water or stock, let it boil for two minutes, then strain; free it from fat and reduce once more to a glaze. Surround the saddle with a garnishing composed of croustades garnished with chopped lettuce and cream (No. 2751), pour over it a part of the reduced sauce, serving the remainder separately. (1546). SHOULDER OF VEAL A LA BOUEGUiaNOTTE (Epaule de Veau & la Bourguignotte). Bone the shoulder by splitting it on the side of the plate as far down as the handle without injuring the skin; when the bones are all removed, cut away all the sinews and fat; equalize the thickness of the meat; season it with salt and spices, and spread over it a layer of farce prepared with one pound of chopped veal, and one pound of fat pork, seasoned with salt, pepper, allspice, and bits of garlic. Eoll it to an even thickness, tie it with ten rows of string making a separate knot at each turn, then wrap it up in several sheets of buttered paper, tie this well and roast the meat either in the oven or on a cradle spit. Unwrap it twenty minutes before serving to let attain a fine color; dress and garnish around with stuffed mushrooms (No. 650), serving with a sauce-boat of brown sauce (No. 414), and tarragon into which squeeze the juice of four lemons. (1547). SLICE OF BOUND OF VEAL "WITH GBAVY (Bouelle de Veau au Jus). The round is a piece of veal cut across through the thickness of the thigh, having it about two to three inches thick; lard it with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52). Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a low saucepan, then the slice of veal, and fry it till it attains a fine golden color, then moisten with a gill of stock (No. 194a) and the same quantity of white wine; add a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, half a pound of minced carrots, an onion with two cloves, whole peppers, and salt, set it in the oven to bake slowly for an hour and a quarter, basting it over frequently, then glaze the meat and strain the juice; free it from fat, reduce it to a proper degree and pour it around the dressed slice, serving it very hot. 522 THE EPICUREAN. (1548). SPINAL MARROW OF VEAL A LA BARNAVE (Amourettes de Veau a la Barnave). The spinal marrow is the marrow taken from the vertebral column of the calf and with which very delicious dishes are prepared. Suppress the sinewy skin surrounding them and soak them for three hours in cold water, changing it every hour, cut them up into two inch lengths and lay them in a saucepan with some water, adding vinegar, salt, thyme, pepper corns and bay leaf. Put this on the fire and let boil for three minutes. When cold, drain and marinate the marrow in oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper, dip each separate piece into a fine light frying batter (No. 137), plunge them into very hot fat, drain, salt and dress on folded napkins garnishing the top with a bunch of fried parsley. Serve a Barnave sauce (No. 431) separately. Spinal marrow prepared as above may also be served with black butter (No. 565) or hazelnut butter (No. 567). (1549). SPINAL MAKKOW OF VEAL A LA VELLEKOI (Amourettes de Veau k la Villeroi). Lay some very fresh spinal marrow for one hour in cold water; scrape off or remove the cover- ing and the sanguineous parts over-spreading the marrow, then put them back into cold water for another hour. Drain and lay them in a saucepan, cover them with water, season with salt, whole peppers, vinegar, sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Boil slowly for fifteen minutes, then drain and cut them in two inch length slices; season them with salt and mignonette. Cover each piece with a little Villeroi sauce (No. 560), lay them on a plate, and when very cold detach each one with a knife; roll them in eggs and bread-crumbs, smooth the surfaces with a knife, then plunge them into very hot fat, a few at the time, until they assume a nice golden color. Drain and arrange them on a folded napkin, garnishing the tops with fried parsley. (1550). THE WAY TO PREPARE SWEETBREADS (Maniere de Preparer Les Kis de Veau). Sweetbread is a glandulous substance found below the calf's throat and is considered a most delicate morsel. Separate the throat sweetbreads from the hearts; the throat part is the largest of the two, the heart is whiter, of a round shape and more delicate and tender than the throat, place them in cold water to disgorge for several hours changing it each hour so as to have them very white; lay them in a saucepan with an abundant supply of cold water, set it on the fire and when the sweetbreads are firm to the touch or poached, or more properly speaking parboiled, then refresh and suppress all the wind-pipes, fibers and fatty parts, afterward lay them under a very light weight. This blanching is for the purpose of hardening the sweetbreads so as to be able to lard them more easily. Blanched sweetbreads are used for sauteing by cutting them in two through their thickness. For brochettes they are cut in slices and for garnishing in the shape of salpicon. (1551). SWEETBREADS A LA BINDA (Ris de Veau a la Binda). Prepare and cook the sweetbreads as for those larded and glazed with gravy (No. 1575). Have some round two inch diameter croutons of tongue, and some of forcemeat the same size and shape. Make a low croustade of foundation paste (No. 135), fasten it to the center of a round dish and dress in a circle around it, alternate croutons of the tongue and forcemeat; fill the croustade with Neapolitan paillettes and dress the glazed sweetbreads on top. A half-glaze sauce (No. 413) to be served separately. Paillettes. A kind of small macaroni three-thirty-seconds of an inch in diameter without any hole in the center. (1552). SWEETBREADS A LA BUSSY (Ris de Veau a la Bussy). Prepare and cook the sweetbreads exactly as for a la Montebello (No. 1560), prepare a salpicon with sweetbreads cut in square pieces, also some truffles and mushrooms, all cut in three-sixteenths inch squares, lay these in an allemande sauce (No. 407), and let get cold. Cover one side of each sweetbread with this preparation, giving it a dome-shape, and lay over the salpicon a cream force- meat (No. 75), dredging chopped truffles over all; besprinkle with butter and set them into a slack oven to heat without browning. A brown Madeira sauce (No. 492) is to be served at the same time, but separately. (1553). SWEETBREADS A LA COLUMBUS (Ris de Veau a la Columbus). Stud and braise the sweetbreads the same as for No. 1554, dress them on small croutons of foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78) dipped in eggs and fried in butter; in the center lay some cock's- combs and kidneys and cover the whole with a Colbert sauce (No. 451) made with the braise stock from the sweetbreads and reduced to the consistency of a half-glaze. 523 (1554). SWEETBEEADS A LA OONTI (Bis de Veau a laConti). Soak well and blanch six medium sized sweetbreads; stud them each in seven places with truffles and wrap them up in a thin slice of fat pork, tie it on securely, then lay them in a sautoir lined with more slices of pork, minced carrots and onions, and a garnished bunch of parsley. Moisten with one pint of beef-stock (No. 194a), let it fall to a glaze, and then add a quart more stock; con- tinue the cooking for half an hour longer. Keduce the stock and glaze the sweetbreads, then dress in the center of the dish, and lay around them in clusters or else in the center some cocks' -combs, kidneys, and mushrooms. Pour over the garnishing a well buttered veloute sauce (No. 415), and serve in a sauce-boat some of the same reduced with the stock passed through a tammy, and finish with a piece of butter. Have a trussed and glazed crawfish on top of each sweetbread. Serve separately a sauce-boat of veloute" sauce reduced with the braise stock strained through a sieve and incorporate in a piece of fresh butter just when ready to serve. (1555). SWEETBREADS A L'E'CAELATE (Eis de Veau a 1'Ecarlate). Select eight medium very white heart sweetbreads, after they are soaked and blanched, press them slightly in the press (Fig. 71), and lard afterward with fat salt pork, cook them in a pan with very little moistening, basting them frequently with their own juice, so as to glaze them a fine color. Boil a quarter of a pound of coarse macaroni in salted water, and when tender, drain and refresh it in tepid salted water; spread it out lengthwise on a towel and cut it up into a quarter of an inch lengths; as quickly as they are cut set them upright on to a buttered sheet and with a cornet filled with quenelle forcemeat (No.89,) stuff the empty space to half itsheighth, and lay small round bits of truffle cut the same size on top, then cover the whole with a buttered paper, heat the bottom of the sheet lightly, then set it into a slow oven for one minute to poach the forcemeat; detach the pieces from the pan taking them up one by one and lay them on the truffle side against the bottom and sides of a buttered plain border mold; fill in the empty space of the mold with some of the same forcemeat, covering over all with a buttered paper; poach this border for twenty-five to thirty minutes in a bain-marie, so that the forcemeat hardens to the touch. When prepared to use, un- mold the border on a dish and fill the center with the sweetbreads. Have sixteen round pieces of unsmoked beef tongue, and sixteen rounds of truffles, all an inch and a quarter in diameter, by one- eighth of an inch in thickness; heat them in a little meat glaze (No. 402) and Madeira. Dress them in a ring around the sweetbreads on the crest of the border, alternating the colors; cover the bot- tom of the dish with half -glaze sauce (No. 413), and serve some of the same sauce separately, reduced with a puree of tomatoes (No. 730), butter, grated parmesan, and minced mushrooms. (1556). SWEETBEEADS A L'EUGE'NIE (Eis de Veau a I'Eugenie). Prepare and stud the sweetbreads (No. 1550), braise and glaze them the same as for a la conti (No. 1554); dress them either in a circle or in a straight row, if the latter, garnish the sides, but if the former fill the interior with a risot finished at the last moment with fresh butter the braise stock reduced to the consistency of a light glaze. Serve a bechamel cream sauce (No. 411), separately. (1557). SWEETBEEADS A LA LA VALLIEEE (Eis de Veau a la La Valliere). Prepare, cook, and glaze the sweetbreads the same as for those larded with gravy (No. 1575); dress them in a circle filling in the center with a garnishing of small mushroom heads stirred into a buttered allemande sauce CNo. 407), adding to it lemon juice and chopped parsley; arrange out- side the circle twelve small croustades, six of them filled with green peas, and the six others with soubise puree (No. 723). Lay on each croustade a slice of glazed truffle, and a small trussed and glazed crawfish between every one. (1558). SWEETBEEADS A LA MALTESE (Eis de Veau a la Maltaise). In order to succeed with this dish it will be found necessary to have two tin rings for each sweetbread; one two inches in diameter by three-eighths of an inch high used for pressing the sweetbreads, and another two and a half inches in diameter by five-eighths of an inch high. Pre- pare and cook the sweetbreads as for a la conti (No. 1554); set them under a weight in the smallest ring for fifteen minutes. Butter two pieces of paper slightly larger than the largest ring, butter the inside of this ring and lay it on top of one of the papers, then cover the paper and ring with a layer of cream forcemeat (No. 75), press down in the ring on this an unmolded sweetbread, and 524 THE EPICUREAN. finish filling the ring with another layer of forcemeat; smooth the surface nicely and OP top imitate a Maltese cross with four long lozenges of red beef tongue, one and one-eighth inch long; cut down the center and turned over so that the opposite sides come together; in the middle of these four reversed lozenges place a small round of tongue a quarter of an inch in diameter and decorate between with little bits of truffle; lay the second sheet of buttered paper over this decora- tion, turn the buttered side down, and proceed the same for all the sweetbreads and rings. Turn the rings over and range them on a level buttered baking sheet in such a way that the decoration is underneath; place it in a slow oven for fifteen to twenty minutes, being careful that the force- meat does not brown. Unmold and dress; prepare a tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed with bearnaise sauce (No. 433), into which incorporate a little meat glaze (No. 402), pour a part of it over the bottom of the dish and serve what remains in a separate sauce-boat. (1559). SWEETBREADS A LA MARSILLY (Ris de Veau k la Marsilly). Place in the center of a dish a cut out rice croustade foundation. Choose eight medium-sized throat sweetbreads, blanch and cool them in the press (No. 71), lard them with fine larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), and range in the bottom of a narrow saucepan lined with a braise; season and moisten to half their height with beef-stock (No. 194a); let this fall very slowly to a glaze, then remoisten to half their height with more of the same broth, reduce again, and pour a gill of Madeira or Marsala wine over the sweetbreads; allow the liquid to boil up twice before setting the sauce- pan in a slack oven to finish cooking the sweetbreads while basting and having them attain a nice color. Fry eight small and pared artichoke bottoms; drain and range them dome-shaped with small fresh green peas cooked English style (No. 2742) thickened with a well-buttered bechamel (No. 409). Dress the sweetbreads on the rice foundation with the artichoke bottoms around; send to the table accompanied by a sauce-boat of veloute (No. 415), reduced with the sweetbread stock. (1560). SWEETBREADS A LA MONTEBELLO (Ris de Veau k la Montebello). Blanch until firm to the touch some medium-sized sweetbreads that have been in soak for a few hours, then drain, refresh and pare by suppressing all the sinews and fat. Lay them in a sautoir lined with slices of fat pork, sliced onions and carrots and a bunch of parsley, moisten to half their height with beef-stock (No. 194a), let this liquid fall to a glaze and then remoisten; cover with a buttered paper and finish cooking in a slack oven. After they are done, pare and set them in oval tin rings, two and a half by five-eighths of an inch in diameter and half an inch high; let them cool off in these under the pressure of a weight. Cut up the parings into small three-sixteenths inch dice; also some mushrooms and truffles; fry a chopped shallot in butter, add to it the mushrooms, the truffles and the sweetbreads, also a little veloute (No. 415), then season; when this preparation is cold, use it to cover one side of the sweetbreads, having it well rounded on the top, cover over with a layer of cream forcemeat (No. 75), and dredge the surface with finely chopped red tongue; place the sweetbreads on a buttered baking pan, pour melted butter over and the sweetbreads in a slack oven for twenty minutes; serve a Montebello sauce (No. 502) separately. (1561). SWEETBREADS A LA MONTPENSIER (Ris de Veau k la Montpensier). Have six heart sweetbreads of equal size; soak them in cold water and afterward lay them in a saucepan containing cold water and parboil until they harden, pare and let cool in the press (Fig. 71). Lard three of them with fine salt pork (No. 3, Fig. 52) and the other three with truffles cut the same size; braise them as for a la Conti (No. 1554), and when cooked and glazed, strain off the stock, free it from its fat and reduce it to a half-glaze. Dress the sweetbreads around a rice croustade garnished with small quenelles and mushrooms thickened with veloute (No. 415) and be- tween each sweetbread lay a whole peeled and glazed truffle; dress on top of the garnishing a pyramid of truffles and surround the base with a circle of mushroom heads; glaze the truffles and sweetbreads. Serve with a separate tureen of veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with the sweet- bread stock, passed through a tammy. (1562). SWEETBREADS, NEAPOLITAN STYLE (Ris de Veau a la Napolitaine), Prepare and cook some throat sweetbreads the same as for a la Montebello (No. 1560); lay them under a weight in oval rings, and when cold cover one side of each, having it rounded on top, with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) mingled with a little half glaze (No. 413); covering this over with a layer VEAL. 525 of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Dip them in beaten eggs and fry in clarified butter. Dress the sweetbreads and lay around a garnishing composed of macaroni cut in two-inch lengths, a quarter as much unsmoked red beef tongue, shredded finely, and the same volume of cooked mushrooms cut into small fillets; add tomato sauce (No. 549), veloute sauce (No. 415) and meat glaze (No. 402). (1563). SWEETBREADS, PIEDMONTESE STYLE (Ris de Veau a la Piemontaise). Lay the sweetbreads to cool under a weight or in the press (Fig. 71) after they are blanched; then cut them across through their thickness into slices, season and range these in a sautoir with melted butter, cook them nicely and moisten with white wine; reduce and add a little veloute" sauce (No. 415). A few minutes later put in some white Piedmontese truffles, half an ounce for each sweetbread. Dress this inside a border of Piedmontese risot (No. 739). (1564). SWEETBREADS, PORTUGUESE STYLE (Ris de Veau a la Portugaise), Blanch and dress the sweetbreads as told in No. 1550; trim them into quarter inch thick slices and saute colorless in butter; when almost done finish cooking in a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), work in a little fresh butter and Madeira; just when ready add as much Portuguese sauce (No. 526) and let reduce till this becomes of a sufficient consistency, then add some olives stuffed with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) containing anchovy butter (No. 569). Poach in the sauce then dress the olives on the bottom of a dish, lay the sweet-breads on top and cover with a part of the sauce, serving the remainder apart. (1565). SWEETBREADS A LA PRINOESSE (Ris de Veau a la Princesse). Prepare and cook the sweetbreads the same as for larded and glazed with gravy (No. 1575). Lay each kernel of sweetbread on an artichoke bottom cooked in white stock (No. 182), and pour over some half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Dress them in a circle and garnish the inside with small braised veal noisettes and cover with a well-buttered velout6 sauce (No. 415); reduced with the braise stock. (1566). SWEETBREADS A LA ST. CLOUD (Ris de Veau a la St. Cloud). Prepare and stud each sweetbread with five studs, four of truffles and the center one of tongue; braise and cook them as for a la Conti (No. 1554). Dress in a circle and garnish the center with a puree of mushooms (No. 722). Pour a light allemande sauce (No. 407) around, and send to the table with a sauce-boat of the same sauce. (1567). SWEETBREADS A LA ST. LAURENT (Ris de Veau a la St. Laurent). Blanch sufficient sweetbreads, then put them to cool under a weight; cut them up into quarter inch thick slices then into one inch squares, also some veal kidneys the same size and shape, and slices of mushroom heads. Run small silver skewers (Fig. 176) through a piece of sweetbread, a- piece of kidney and mushroom; dip them in melted butter, then in bread-crumbs and broil over a slow fire. Pour over an Italian sauce (No. 484) with a little chopped truffle added. (1568). SWEETBREADS A LA THEODORA (Ris de Veau a la Theodora), The sweetbreads are to be prepared and cooked exactly the same as for Montebello (No. 1560); put them under a weight in round rings. Fry a shallot in butter, add to it some fresh mushrooms, unsmoked beef tongue, truffles, fine herb,s all finely chopped, and a little meat glaze (No. 402). Butter some silver cases, fill them half full with this preparation, lay the sweet- breads on top and set them in a slow oven to cook for fifteen to twenty min- utes; when ready to serve put on each one a half spherical quenelle decorated with truffles, over this a Spanish olive stuffed with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and on top of all a whole pistachio nut stuck in the forcemeat, Serve separately a champagne sauce (No. 445) reduced with the stock the sweetbreads have been braised in. (1569). SWEETBREADS ATI OHANOELIER (Ris de Veau au Ohancelier). Soak and blanch the needed quantity of sweetbreads, then cut them across in two; fry thes& pieces in butter with a little fine shallot and parsley, adding lemon -juice, salt, pepper and nutmeg; when done lay them under a weight or in the press (Fig. 71); pare oval-shaped when cold. Reduce 526 THE: some chicken pur&j (No. 713) with an allemande sauce (No. 407). When it has cooled off cover one side of the sweetbreads with it, having the tops well rounded, then smooth the surface, dip in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, level the bread-crumbs with the blade of a knife and fry them all to a fine color. Serve a supreme sauce (No. 547) separately into which chopped truffles have been added. (1570). SWEETBREADS AU MONARCH (Kis de Veau an Monarque). Prepare and cook the sweetbreads precisely the same as for larded and glazed (No. 1575): dress in a circle on round crusts of bread two and a half inches in diameter by one quarter of an inch in thickness, and fried in butter; lay on top of every sweetbread a crown-shaped quenelle two inches in diameter and streaked with truffles, on this set a crawfish; in the center pour a garnishing composed of a salpicon of square pieces of mushroom, artichoke bottoms, truffles, and foies-gras all cut the same size and mixed with Madeira sauce (No. 492); serve separately some of the same sauce. (1571). SWEETBREADS, ENGLISH STYLE (Ris de Veau a 1'Anglaise). Blanch six medium size unlarded sweetbreads; lay them in a sautoir garnished with slices of fat pork, minced carrots and onions, thyme, bay leaf and whole peppers; moisten to three-quarters of their height with beef stock (No. 194a), and after it conies to a boil finish cooking in a moderate oven, when done, remove and put them under a press in oval tin rings; when cold unmold them and cut them crosswise through the center. Cover one side of each sweetbread with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), laying it on a quarter of an inch thick; set the other half belonging to it on top and remove all the superfluous preparation oozing from the sides. Beat up well one -quarter of a pound of melted butter with six egg-yolks, dip the sweetbreads into this, then roll them in freshly grated bread-crumbs; bread-crumb them twice before laying them on a baking tin, pour a little butter over and cook them in a moderate oven; serve a brown English sauce separately. Brown English Sauce. Reduce espagnole sauce (No. 414) with meat-glaze (No. 402) adding just before serving some Worcestershire sauce, butter, lemon juice and fine herbs. (1572). SWEETBREAD FRITTERS, CREAM SAUOE (Beignets de Ris de Veau, Sauce Creme). Soak and blanch a sufficient quantity of sweetbreads; suppress the windpipes and fat, and cut them in two across through their thickness, then lay them in a tureen with finely shredded chives and shallots, salt, pepper, allspice, lemon juice and a little oil; keep them in a cool place for one hour turning them over occasionally, then drain them on a cloth carefully removing every vestige of herbs; dip the pieces into a frying paste (No. 137) not having it too thick, and fry them slowly until they are cooked and have acquired a fine color, then drain and dress on folded napkins, garnish the top with fried parsley. Serve with a cream sauce (No. 454) in a sauce-boat. (1573). SWEETBREADS IN PAPERS (Ris de Veau en Papillotes). Split some blanched, cold and pressed sweetbreads in two through their thickness; saute" them in butter seasoning with salt and pepper. Chop up one small onion and one shallot, lay them in a saucepan with melted fat pork to fry colorless, adding six ounces of chopped fresb mushrooms; reduce the moisture of these, season, and add six ounces of cooked ham cut in small one-eighth inch dice; heat the whole well, then add chopped parsley. Cut heart- Bhaped pieces from a sheet of paper, nine inches long by five wide; oil and lay them on the table: cover one side with thin slices of fat pork or cooked ham, lay a little of the preparation on top, then a piece of sweetbread, and finish with another layer of the preparation; fold the paper three- quarters around and pour a little Madeira sauce (No. 492) through the opening and finish folding 60 as to enclose all hermetically; range these "papillotes" in the serving-dish, place it in the oven, basting over carefully with a little sweet oil. They should be browned, but not blackened and swollen to double their original size. (1574). SWEETBREADS LARDED AND GLAZED WITH CEPES BORDELAISE (Ris de Veau Pique's Glacis aux Cepes Bordelaise). Lard with larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52) some equal-sized sweetbreads; blanch and cool them off under a weight; range them very close to one another in a sautoir lined with salt pork, vegetables and minced onions; moisten to half the heighth with beef stock (No. 194a) and let the VEAL. 527 liquid fall to a glaze; moisten once more and finish cooking in a moderate oven, or else with hot fire underneath and on top of the cover; basting the sweetbreads frequently in order to glaze them nicely. When done drain, dress on a garnishing of cepes a la Bordelaise. Cepes a la Bordelaise. Saute in oil some cepes, when partly done add some finely chopped shallots, season with salt and pepper, add chopped parsley and lemon juice. Serve the stock, well reduced and thickened with brown sauce (No. 414), in a sauce tureen. (1575). SWEETBREADS LARDED AND GLAZED WITH GRAVY (Ris de Veau Piqued et Glacis au Jus). Prepare the sweetbreads as explained in No. 1550; when blanched and stiffened lard them in two sections as shown in Fig. 332, with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52). Line a saucepan with slices of fat pork, cut up onions and carrots, a bunch of pars- ley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and some veal parings, lay the sweet- breads over and moisten with stock (No. 194a); season with salt and whole peppers then cover with a buttered paper. Boil up and finish to cook in a slack oven for forty-five minutes, basting frequently during the time; glaze FIG. 332. and let assume a good color. Strain the stock through a fine sieve, skim off its fat and reduce it to the consistency of a light syrup. Dish up the sweetbreads and pour the gravy around. (1576). SWEETBREADS, PARISIAN STYLE (Ris de Veau a la Parisienne). Stud one-half of the sweetbreads with truffles, envelope them in thin bardes of fat pork, and lard the other half; braise them as for larded and glazed chicken with gravy (No. 1575). Dec- orate a flat border mold with fanciful cuts of truffles, fill it up with forcemeat (No. 80) and poach it in a bain-marie. When ready to serve, invert the mold on a dish, unmold and lay the sweetbreads on the border, filling in the empty space with minced truffles and mushrooms mixed with a brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with Madeira and lay around the outside of the border some whole mush- rooms and truffles glazed with meat glaze (No. 402). Serve a separate sauce-boat of brown sauce reduced with the stock and Madeira wine and the truffle and mushroom parings, strained through a tammy. (1577). SWEETBREADS STUDDED, SPANISH STYLE (Ris de Veau Oloutfc a 1'Espagnole). Stud with truffles eight medium sweetbreads previously blanched; then wrap them up in small pieces of clean white linen giving them an oval-shape; cook them in some well seasoned mirepoix stock (No. 419), drain, unwrap and wring the cloths out in cold water, then wrap them up again and let get cold one beside the other under the pressure of a light weight; unwrap once more and lay them in a baking tin with some of their own stock partly reduced to a half-glaze; warm them at the oven door while basting. Dress these sweetbreads on an oblong- shaped cut out rice foundation, decorate around the outside with clusters of small cooked mush- room heads and poached quenelles; cover over with some bechamel sauce (No. 409) reduced with cream and seasoned with prepared red pepper (No. 168). Serve separately anespagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with the remainder of the stock, adding to it some stuffed Spanish olives (No. 695). (1578). SWEETBREADS, WITH QUENELLES, (Ris de Veau aux Quenelles). The sweetbreads are to be prepared and cooked as for a la Conti (No. 1554); when done range them in a circle and garnish the middle with small bead-shaped quarter inch quenelles; cover with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) so as to glaze the sweetbreads, and serve a Madeira sauce (No. 492) in a separate sauce-boat. (1579). SWEETBREADS, ZURICH (Ris de Veau Zurich). Lard the edges of six heart sweetbreads with fillets of tongue, and stud the centers with truffles; braise and glaze them the same as for a la Conti (No. 1554), dress them on small crous- tades filled with a garnishing composed of veal palate, truffles, mushrooms, all cut in quarter inch squares, and a brown sauce (No. 414), reduced with the stock used for braising the sweetbreads (part of this sauce should be reserved to serve in a separate sauce-boat). Range around these some round-shaped quenelles made with chicken quenelle forcemeat mixed with soubise (No. 89) and decorated with truffles. 528 THi; EPICUREAN. (1580). CALVES' TAILS WITH CABBAGE (Queues de Veau aux Ohoux). Take twelve calves' tails, cut the thick ends into four pieces two inches long and parboil them with a pound of sliced bacon; cut a large cabbage in four, blanch it for fifteen minutes, drain, refresh, suppress the core and press out all the water; tie the pieces together. Put the par- boiled tails into a stock pot, the bacon, the cabbage and a garnished bunch of parsley; moisten with one pint of stock (No. 194a) season with nutmeg, pepper, and a little salt, and let boil slowly until the tails are done and the stock reduced, then take all from the pot, drain, and dress the tails intercalated with the cabbage and the bacon laid on top; cover with an espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with some clear gravy (No. 404). (1581). TENDON OR GRISTLE OF VEAL A LA BAYEUX (Tendon de Veau a la Bayeux), Cut some tendons three inches long by two and a quarter wide; place them in a sautoir with butter and square pieces of unsmoked bacon, small onions, dice-shaped pieces of ham, small pear-shaped carrots, and a bunch of parsley; fry slowly, moisten with stock (No. 194a), season and let cook for two hours and a half, being careful to remove the grease; remoisten frequently till the stock is reduced to the third of a glaze. Dress the tendons, place the garnishings around, pour the sauce over the meat and serve. (1582). TENDON OE GEISTLE OP VEAL A LA BIARRITZ (Tendon de Veau a la Biarritz). Pare and cut the tendon into pieces measuring three inches long fry them in clarified butter, drain off the butter and add to the meat some white wine, a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), and meat glaze (No. 402). Heat some clarified butter and add to it well cleansed Piedmontese rice; when very hot moisten with broth (No. 194a), boil and let cook in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, then add to it the meats and leave it in the oven for fifteen minutes longer. Dress the tendons and rice and surround with veal kidneys, fried in butter, and fine herbs. (1583). CALVES' TONGUES A LA FLAMANDE (Langues de Veau a la Flamande). To Salt the Calves' Tongues. Take out the pipes from twelve tongues; prick them all over with a coarse trussing needle and put them into a stone vessel containing sixteen quarts. Dissolve a sufficiency of salt in ten quarts of water so that when an egg is dropped in, it will float on the top; add four ounces of saltpetre, and when all is thoroughly dissolved, pour it over the tongues. Set them in a cool place, and leave them there for twelve days, turning them over every third one. Drain and cook them plainly in water with some chopped beef suet, and when done, peel off the skins and keep the tongue warm in a light half -glaze sauce (No. 413); dress and surround them with a Flemish garnishing (No. 668), pouring over a clear gravy (No. 404). (1584). CALVES' TONGUES A LA PERIGUEUX (Langues de Veau a la Pengueux). On the center of a round dish fasten a wooden bottom covered with cooked paste (No. 131) and having a six inch high pyramidal support in the center, also covered with paste; brush the whole FIG. a33. with meat glaze (No. 402). Cook six or seven large calves' tongues in water, selecting those which have been in brine for twelve days. Roll out on a floured table a thin band of half puff paste (No. 146), three and a half to four inches wide; roll it on a roller to unroll on a baking sheet slightly VEAL. 529 wetted with water, then with a cardboard pattern cut from this band large pieces, straight on one side and rounded on the other, one end being pointed while the other is straight, and on the rounded side cut it into small sharp points; prick the surfaces, egg over with a brush without touching with the hands, and cook them in a slow oven until they become a light golden color; af- ter removing let get partially cold under a very light weight. Drain the tongues, peel and keep them for ten minutes under a weight to flatten lightly; pare and cut each one in two or three pieces from top to bottom, then reconstruct them as they were before, and cover the cut sides with a layer of soubise (No. 723), reduced and thickened with a little meat glaze (No. 402), and slightly cool; keep them their correct shape, afterward glaze them over with a brush; cover the wooden bottom and surround the central support on the dish with a thick bed of good risot (No. 739), and stick on top of this support a small skewer garnished with truffles. Dress the tongues upright leaning them against the rice, lay between each one of the bands of paste to separate the tongues, letting them project slightly beyond. Cover over with a Madeira sauce (No. 492), reduced with truffle parings, and send a separate Perigueux sauce (No. 517), to the table at the same time as the tongues. ADDITIONAL RECIPES. MUTTO^T (Mouton). AMERICAN OUTS, i. Head and Neck 2. Rack 3. Shoulder 4. Loin and Saddle 5. Legs 6. Trotter* 7. Breast 8. Tail FIG. 334. (1585). BEEAST OP MUTTON PLAIN (Poitrine de Mouton an Naturel), Take three fine well covered breasts of mutton; remove with a blow of the knife the bone part covering the tendons, tie up the breasts and put them into a baking tin, having the bottom cov- ered with slices of fat pork, carrots, onions and a bunch of garnished parsley; moisten with suffi- cient stock (No. 194a) to allow them to swim, bring to a boil on the top of the fire, skim, then place in the oven to cook for two hours and a half, turning the meats over during the time. When the bones can be easily detached drain off the breasts and suppress all the rib bones leaving the tendons on; lay the meats under a weight or in the press (No. 71) to reduce them to half an inch in thickness, and when cold pare off the skin without touching the fat; trim them into half hearts, dip in melted butter and stick a piece of the bone in the pointed end; broil over a slow fire to a fine color, then dress, glaze and pour a clear gravy (No. 404) over; garnish each bone end with a frill (No. 10). (1586). BEEAST OP MUTTON STUFPED-TOMATO ANDALOUSE SAUCE (Poitrine de Mouton Farcie Sauce Tomate & 1'Andalouse). Remove the bony part of a breast of mutton over the tendons open on the straight edge in such a way as to form a pocket and fill this with some of the following stuffing; sew it up and braise the meat in a rnirepoix stock (No, 419); when cooked dress glaze and cover with part of the stock reduced to the consistency of half-glaze; serve a tomato Andalouse sauce (No. 550) separately. For the Stuffing. Chop up finely half a pound of lean, sinewless pork with half a pound of bacon, add to it half a pound of soaked and well pressed bread-crumbs. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped onion and a bit of garlic, both of these lightly fried in butter and finish with chopped parsley and two whole eggs. (1587). BEEAST, TENDON AND SHOULDEE OF MUTTON, NAVAEIN (Poitrine, Tendon et E'paiile de Mouton Navarin). Cut into half inch pieces one pound of breast, one pound of tendon and one pound of shoulder of mutton. Lay these meats in a vessel, season them with salt, pepper, two cloves, nutmeg, thyme, bay leaf and a bunch of parsley containing a clove of garlic; pour on a quarter of a bottleful of Madeira wine and let marinate for six hours, then drain off the meats, wipe dry and fry them w'th chopped up fat pork and half a pound of three-quarter inch dice pieces of blanched lean bacon; add to this the Madeira and aromatics with some brown sauce (No. 414) and let cook on a moderate fire While skimming off the fat thoroughly. In the meantime prepare some turnips cut out with a (531) 532 THE EPICUREAN. one-inch vegetable spoon, fry them in lard and when they begin to brown, sprinkle over some pow- dered sugar and after they are of a fine color, remove with a skimmer, place in a saucepan and finish cooking in a little of the brown sauce taken from the stew, and wetting with some stock (No. 194a). Dress the stew, range the turnips around and pour over the gravy from both the meat and turnips reduced together with half a pint of white wine and strained through a tammy (No. 159). (1588). HAEIOOT OF BREAST OF MUTTON WITH TURNIPS (Haricot de Mouton aux Navets). Have three pounds of breast of mutton cut up into two inches pieces; fry them in six ounces of butter letting them get a fine color, then drain them through a colander; trim and cut the bones, pare square, add one ounce of flour to the butter and when slightly browned, moisten with the three pint? of broth, (No. 194a) boil, skim off the fat and strain through a tammy. Set all this into a clean saucepan and add to it the well-pared pieces of meat, add two carrots, two onions, one with three cloves in it, a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, thyme and a clove of garlic, salt and pepper; let boil until the meat is well cooked and the sauce properly reduced. Pare two pounds of turnips the same shape as pigeon's eggs, fry them in butter and as they first begin to brown, sprinkle over with powdered sugar, and when they have attained a very fine color, put them into the stew removing the fat pieces an hour before serving allowing them all to cook together After the meat is done, which can easily be perceived if the bones detach easily, remove the carrots, onions and parsley, then dress the meat and garnish with the turnips; strain the sauce and pour it over; in case the sauce be too thin reduce it until it acquires proper con- sistency. (1589). OARBONADE A LA JUVIGNY (Carbonade k la Juvigny). The piece from the end of the last chop to the beginning of the leg is called carbonade. The bones are first extracted from the loin and it is then pared on all its length and width and larded with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), season, roll and tie it up into an oblong square (Fig. 335). Line the bottom of a saucepan or braziere with slices of fat pork, slices of veal, carrots, onions, bay leaf and thyme; lay the carbonade over, set a heavy buttered paper on top and pour in a quart of stock (No. 194a); let simmer for two hours and a half. Fifteen minutes before serving time, glaze the carbonade letting it become a fine color, dress it and garnish around with small pear- shaped carrots cooked in broth (No. 194a), small blanched onions cooked the same, small turnip balls blanched and browned in the pan with a little sugar and finished cooking in broth, and celery knobs the size of a clove of garlic, blanched and cooked likewise in broth. All these vegetables should be only sufficiently moistened so that when they are done the liquid is reduced to a glaze; strain the meat stock, remove its fat and finish by reducing it to the consistency of a half-glaze and add Juvigny sauce (No. 485). (1590). PLAIN MUTTON OUTLETS AND MUTTON CHOPS (Ootelettes de Mouton Nature et Ootelettes de Filet Nature). For plain cutlets use racks of mutton, having the meat tender and well- matured, suppress the skin covering the fat, shorten the rib bones and divide into equal-sized cutlets make a handle to the cutlets by removing the fat from about one inch of the end and scraping the bone clean, when nicely pared they should each weigh about four ounces. Salt the cutlets, baste with oil and range them all on the same side on the broiler; they take from eight to ten minutes to cook. When done, dress them on a dish, pour over a clear gravy (No. 404) and trim each chop with a paper frill (No. 10). Mutton Chops are cut either from a loin or half saddle of a sheep split lengthwise in two. These chops should be cut rather thick, each one about an inch and a half and then flattened to an inch. Pare and season with salt, baste with oil and broil for about twelve minutes, dress and serve very hot. FIG. 336. (1591). MUTTON CHOPS SOYER (Ootelettes de Mouton Soyer). Soyer chops are cut from the saddle dividing it into one and a half inch thick slices cut the full width of the saddle; they should each weigh twelve ounces after being pared and are to be cooked for Fio. 335. MUTTON. 533 twelve minutes; when they are doie they can be split through the center so that one chop wiH answer for two persons; serve them very hot with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) into which Worces- FIG. 337. tershire sauce has been added, and buttered at the last moment, with the addition of fine raw herbs and nonpareil capers. (1592). MUTTON CHOPS, TAVEKN STYLE (Ootelettes de Mouton a la Taverne), Cut the chops from the saddle, lengthwise having them an inch and a half thick; flatten, pare and garnish each one with a kidney fastened on with a skewer thrust into the fat part of the chop above the minion fillet; sprinkle with salt, baste with oil, and broil until of a fine color on one side, then turn over to finish cooking on the other, ten to twelve minutes in all; serve very hot surrounding them with water-cress. FlQ (1593). MUTTON OUTLETS A LA BOUOHERE (Ootelettes de Mouton a la Bouchere), Have a good fleshy rack of mutton with fine, tender pink meat; suppress the superficial skin Covering the fat, and cut five cutlets from each rack; remove the spinal bone and round the tops; they should be thick and pared very little without handles, as they are not garnished with frills; salt over and dip them in melted butter, then roll in fine bread-crumbs. Eight or ten minutes before serving, range them on the broiler all on the same side, and when partially done and a fine color, turn them over to finish the cooking; when they are finished, dress in a circle garnishing the middle with the following: Cut four ounces of gherkins in small fillets like a small Julienne, (No. 318); four ounces of mushrooms, and four ounces of tongue, cut exactly the same as the gherkins; thicken this garnishing with a brown English sauce (No. 1571), finishing with a dash of cayenne pepper. (1594). MUTTON OUTLETS A LA MACEDOINE (Ootelettes de Mouton a la Mace"doine). Cut off fine cutlets from a fine rack; pare them the same as if cooked plain (No. 1590), and ten minutes before serving, put them on the fire in a sautoir with clarified butter; when they are done, drain off the butter and replace it by a little clear gravy (No. 404), and white wine; reduce, then roll the cutlets in this glaze to give them a nice gloss; dress in a circle and garnish the center with a macedoine (No. 680). Detach the sauce with a little broth and white wine, and strain it through a tammy over the cutlets. (1595). MUTTON OUTLETS A LA MAEEOHALE (Cotelettes de Mouton a la Mare"chale), Prepare and trim some mutton cutlets, as for plain cutlets (No. 1590), season and saute them quite rare in clarified butter; let cool off under a weight pressed lightly on them, then pare and cover both sides of the cutlets with a thin layer of cooked fine herbs (No. 385); place on top of this another thin layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), bread-crumb them English style and range them on a baking tin; pour clarified butter over and brown in the oven; remove, drain, garnish with paper frills (No. 10). Dress them on a crown-shaped trimmed rice croustade, fill the center with some turned truffles rolled in a little meat glaze (No. 402) and butter and serve separ ately a half -glaze sauce (No. 413) with essence of truffles (No. 395). 534 THE EPICUREAN. (1596). MUTTON OUTLETS A LA NELSON (Cotelettes de Mouton a la Nelson). Chop up separately and thoroughly some cooked ham and truffles. Pare a few cutlets, season and dip them in beaten eggs, cover one of their sides with the ham and the other with the truffles, dredging bread-crumbs on both sides, dip them again in the eggs, roll them in the bread-crumbs, and range them in a sautoir with clarified butter; fry over a very brisk fue; when cooked, drain, wipe, garnish the handles with paper frills (No. 10), and dress them in a circle. Pour a little Victoria sauce (No. 557) into the center of the crown and serve more of it in a sauce-boat. (1597). MUTTON OUTLETS A LA SAVARY (Cotelettes de Mouton a la Savary). Obtain a rack of mutton of tender meat, take off all the skin, shorten the rib bones and cut the rack into even thick cutlets. (The cutlets are to be cut more or less thick according to the thickness of the meat.) Suppress the hard skin covering the fillets, round the meat neatly cutting the tops into a point, and remove all superfluous fat. Make a handle to the cutlets by removing the fat from about one inch of the end and scraping the bone clean. Macerate these cutlets in a cooked marinade (No. 114), drain, wipe dry and fry them in clarified butter; pour off the fat and moisten with meat glaze (No. 402) and Madeira, roll the cutlets in this to glaze them, then dress them in a circle; garnish the handles with frills and fill in the center with a puree of Jerusalem artichokes (No. 704). Serve separately a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with lemon-juice added and surround with one inch potato balls cooked in the oven with clarified butter, drained, salted, and dressed. (1598). MUTTON OUTLETS BREADED, ENGLISH SAUCE (Cotelettes de Mouton Panges, Sauce Anglaise). Season some well pared cutlets, dip them in melted butter, roll in fine white bread-crumbs, and lay them on the broiler to cook while turning them over about eight minutes will suffice when done, of a fine color on both sides, dress and decorate with paper frills (No. 10); serve at the same time a brown English sauce (No. 1571) either separately or underneath the cutlets. (1599). MUTTON CUTLETS BREADED WITH PUREE OF TRUFFLES OR WITH PUREE OF CHESTNUTS (Cotelettes de Mouton Panees a la Purge de Truffes ou a la Purge de Marrons). Pare several outlets all of the same thickness, salt and dip them in clarified butter, then roll them in fine bread-crumbs and broil over a slow fire until they are cooked and attain a good color then trim the handle with a paper frill (No. 10), and dress in a circle around a croustade filling this with a puree of truffles (No. 731). Serve a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) apart. With Chestnuts. Prepare the cutlets as for the above with the only difference that they should not be breaded and the puree of truffles replaced by a puree of chestnuts (No. 712). (1600). MUTTON OUTLETS, RUSSIAN STYLE WITH HORSERADISH (Cotelettes de Mouton a la Russe au Raifort). Have some well pared cutlets; lard them with cooked ham, then lay them in a sautoir with ilarified butter, fry over a brisk fire, moistening with a little Madeira and meat glaze (No. 402). Pour some well reduced veloute (No.415) into a saucepan, and add to it some freshly grated horseradish, thickening with a few egg-yolks, then put in the whites of the eggs beaten stiff; use this preparation to cover over the larded side of the cutlets; smooth them nicely with a knife, and bestrew with bread-crumbs fried in butter; pour melted butter over and brown in a hot oven, then serve after having trimmed the handles with paper frills and dressed the cutlets flat on a well acidulated Colbert sauce (No. 451), with minced cepes added. (1601). MUTTON OUTLETS WITH BRAISED LETTUCE (Cotelettes de Mouton aux Laitues Braisges). Pare the cutlets as indicated for plain (No. 1590), larding them with medium lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52). Butter the bottom of a sautoir, and cover it with slices of fat pork, slices of veal, carrots, onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and a few cloves; lay in the cutlets and moisten to half their height with a mirepoix stock (No. 419), then cover over with buttered MUTTON. 535 paper, let cook to reduce in the oven, being careful to baste frequently, and to add more liquid as quickly as it evaporates, they will take about two hours. Have some lettuce blanched and braised (No. 2754); when done and well drained, dress them in the center of a dish placing the cutlets around after glazing them and trimming the handles with paper frills (No. 10). Strain, remove the fat from the stock and reduce with a little brown sauce (No. 414) and white wine; pass through a tammy and pour a part of it over the meat serving the remainder in a sauce-boat with the cutlets. (1602). MUTTON OUTLETS WITH CHICCORY, TRUFFLES OR FRIED POTATOES (Cotelettes de Mouton a la Chicoree, aux TrufFes ou aux Pommes Frites). With Chiccory. Dress them in a circle when prepared the same as for the marinade (No. 1604), fill the empty space with a chiccory garnishing (No. 2729), serving a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) separately. With Truffles. Prepare, cook, and dress the cutlets the same as for the above; fill the inside of the circle with finely shredded truffles added to a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and Madeira wine. With Fried Potatoes. After they are prepared, cooked, dressed, and glazed, fill in the inside of the circle with half inch balls of potatoes sauted in butter, and seasoned with salt, parsley, and lemon juice. (1603). MUTTON OUTLETS WITH CUCUMBERS (Cotelettes de Mouton aux Ooncombres). Prepare and cook the cutlets the same as with braised lettuce (No. 1601); when done dress them crown-shaped, and fill the inside of the circle with cucumbers cut the shape of a clove of garlic, cooked in stock (No. 194a), drained, and mingled with cream bechamel sauce (No. 411). (1604). MUTTON CUTLETS WITH MARINADE (Cotelettes de Mouton a la Marinade). Select two racks of mutton having the meats tender and well matured, remove the remainder of the breast leaving the cutlet bones only four inches long, also remove the neck as far down as the third cutlet; saw off the spinal bone without injuring the fillet as far as the joints of the cutlets, then cut from each rack either five, six, or even seven cutlets according to the thickness of the meat, each one when pared ought to weigh four ounces. Pare the meat from the end of the bone, about one inch deep to make a handle, then flatten each cutlet lightly and suppress the fibrous skin on the fat, also the skin adhering to the inside of the bone; salt over and dip the cutlets in melted butter, and broil them on a bright fire, only turning them over once to have them retain their blood and be juicy. Glaze, garnish the handles with frills (No. 10), and dress; pour a little clear gravy (No. 404) into the bottom of the dish, and serve with a separate marinade sauce (No. 496). (1605). DOUBLE BARON OR SADDLE, ROASTED (Double Baron ou Belle R6tis\ The double of mutton is the back hip part with the leg on which the saddle with about seven of the ribs is left adhering (Fig. 340). Select a good sheep not too large, but young and fat, remove the skin and suppress the fat; cut several incisions on the fat to facilitate and equalize the cooking, 'C . f ' Jciu^- Doubts. FIG. 340. then lay it in a copper pan and cook in a moderate oven; the meat must be left rare, then salt it over. Dress and decorate the leg bone with paper frills (No. 10), pouring a clear gravy (No. 404), on the bottom of the dish. The baron and saddle are to be cooked the same way and served the same; they differ only in cut. The baron is taken from the loin end as far as the first rib (Fig. 340). The saddle is the whole hind part of the mutton without the legs. 536 THE EPICUREAN. (1606), SHEEP'S EARS A LA WESTPHALIAN (Oreilles de Mouton a la Westpnalienne), Blanch and braise some sheep's ears after having thoroughly cleansed them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419); when cooked put them in a vessel with the stock strained over, and let get cold. Cut out the inside of the ears with a column tube, then reheat them in the braise stock. Dress on a baking dish and fill the interiors with veal quenelle forcemeat (No. 92), to which add chopped truffles and some veloute sauce (No. 415), thickened with egg-yolks; dredge over some bread-crumbs and grated parmesan cheese; sprinkle over a little melted butter and place in the oven to color slightly. Dress them in a circle and fill the center with thin slices of ham fried in butter over a brisk fire; dilute the glaze in the pan with white wine and brown sauce (No. 414), reduce and pour it over the ham; sprinkle chopped parsley over the whole. (1607). EPIGRAMMES OF MUTTON A LA JARDINI&RE (Epigrammes de Mouton a la Jardiniere), Have eight mutton cutlets prepared as for plain (No. 1590), season, dip in eggs and bread- crumbs, equalize the bread-crumbs and fry in clarified butter or if preferred omit the breading and simply saute the cutlets plain. Braise some breast of mutton the same as for plain (No. 1585), then put them under a weight and when cold pare them into half hearts; dip these in Villeroi sauce (No. 560), and after this is cold dip them in eggs, then in bread-crumbs, immerse them in plenty of hot frying fat; when of a nice color, drain. Decorate the top of a hollow border mold with all kinds of cut up vegetables, fill the inside with quenelle forcemeat (No. 92), poach, unmold on hot dishes. Range the breasts and cutlets alternately in a circle on top of this and fill the empty center with a jardiniere (No. 677); serve an espagnole sauce (No. 414) separately after it has been reduced with the braise stock which has been strained and freed from fat, and some mushroom essence (No. 392). (1608). MUTTON FILLETS A L'ALEXANDRE (Filets de Mouton a 1'Alexandre). Pare the mutton fillets, cut them up into thin slices a quarter of an inch thick and cover each one with a cooked fine herb preparation (No. 385), seasoning first with salt and pepper, dip in beaten eggs, roll in fine bread-crumbs, giving each a horseshoe -shape and fry in clarified butter. Slice six mutton kidneys, as many raw mushrooms and half as many truffles, fry the kidneys in butter, add to them the mushrooms and truffles, drain off the butter and replace it by a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), lemon juice and fresh butter, pour this stew into a dish and dress the cooked fillets over in straight rows, one overlapping the other. (1609). FILLETS OF MUTTON GRENADINS, P6IVEADE SAUCE (Filets de Mouton Grenadins, Sauce Poivrade). Pare the small minion fillets; beat them into half hearts, season, range them in a tureen and cover with a cooked but cold marinade (No. 114), leaving them in for twenty-four hours, drain off the fillets, wipe well and lard with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52). Set them into a buttered sautoir, besprinkling over with more butter and push them into a brisk oven so that the larding cooks at the same time as the meat; after removing drain off the fat and moisten with a little gravy (No. 404), let this fall to a glaze over a hot fire, then lift out the fillets and dress them in two straight rows on a large dish, garnish around with triangular croutons of bread fried in butter; pour into the same sautoir a few spoonfuls of poivrade sauce (No. 523), and at the first boil pour the sauce through a fine strainer, pour part of it over the fillets and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. (1610). NOISETTES OF MUTTON, GLAZED (Noisettes de Mouton Glacis), Noisettes of fillet of mutton are cut from the large fillet or tenderloin of a saddle, or else from the minion fillet. Cut them up into slanting four ounce pieces or thereabouts, beat lightly, then pare them round-shaped about two inches in diameter; after they are trimmed they should each weigh three ounces; season and place them in a deep vessel with a little Madeira wine, thyme, and bay leaf, leaving them to marinate for one hour; drain and wipe them thoroughly dry, then range them in a sautoir with hot clarified butter, and let fry on both sides, turning them over. Drain off the butter and replace it by two spoonfuls of clear gravy (No. 404), and the Madeira from the marinade; let the liquid fall to a glaze while turning the noisettes over, then take them out and pare them of equal size. Cover one side of each with a layer of consistent soubise puree (No. 723), smooth them dome-form, and range on a buttered baking sheet; coat them over with a layer of reduced and nearly cold espagnole sauce (No. 414), and then push them into a slow oven to glaze. Lay each separate noisette on a thin slice of fried bread also covered with soubise and dress on a very hot dish. MUTTOIST. 537 <1611), NOISETTES OF MUTTON, PEOVENgAL STYLE (Noisettes de Mouton a la Provengale). Select large mutton fillets; remove the fat and skin, then cut them up on the bias into four- ounce slices; flatten and pare them round-shaped (after they are pared they should weigh three ounces each), then salt over. Chop up the parings very finely, have an equal quantity of salt pork and cut-up ham, each chopped separately and mixed after, and a handful of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. With this preparation make some small cakes the same size as the noisettes; dip them in beaten eggs and roll in fine bread-crumbs; fry them in butter the same time as the noisettes, drain, dry and lay the noisettes on top of the forcemeat cakes; glaze them over and pour some Provencal sauce (No. 529) around and serve. (1612). NOISETTES OF MUTTON WITH COOKED FINE HERBS (Noisettes de Mouton aux Fines Herbes Cuites). Pare some mutton fillets, remove all sinews arid fat, then cut them up into slices; pare them round: fry in butter, season, drain off the butter and add some cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Dress the meat on round slices of bread cut a quarter of an inch thick by two inches across, fried in butter and laid on a dish; pour the sauce over and serve. (1613). PAUFIETTES OF FILLET OF MUTTON A LA DELUSSAN (Paupiettes de Filets de Mouton a la Dehissan). Cut the mutton fillets when well pared in eighth of an inch thick slices lengthways of the meat; flatten down these small bands and season each with salt and pepper; cover one side with chicken forcemeat (No. 62) into which has been added an equal quantity of cooked fine herbs (No. 385); roll them up cylinder-shape and run them on a skewer; pour over some melted butter and broil them over the fire; dress and cover over with a reduced espagnole sauce (No. 414), to which sliced mushrooms have been added; incorporating into it at the last moment some chopped parsley. (1614). SLICES OF FILLET OF MUTTON, MAITEE-D'HOTEL (Tranches de Filets de Mouton k la Maitre-d'Hotel). Pare well the minion fillets from the mutton; cut them lengthwise through their thickness, pare and season with salt, then bread-crumb them English style (No. 13), and broil to a fine color. Dress these on a hot dish and sprinkle over with either maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581) or else a thickened maitre-d'hotel sauce (No. 493). (1615). FILLETS OF MUTTON LAEDED, WITH GEEEK EAVIOLES-WHOLE (Filets de Mouton Entiers Pique's aux Eavioles a la Grecque). Raise, pare, and remove the sinews from some mutton fillets; lard them with fine larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52) and roast them in a hot oven; when done, dress on a garnishing of Greek ravioles. Greek Raviolis. Chop fine and pound one pound of fillet or loin of mutton, add to this a sheep's brain, cooked, well drained, and pounded, and two ounces of rice previously boiled in water; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and add one ounce of chopped onions fried in butter, some chopped parsley, a little bechamel (No. 409) half an ounce of fresh butter, and four raw egg-yolks; taste this forcemeat, to see whether the seasoning be correct, then use it to make square ravioles as described in No. 158, when poached and drained, place them in some clear gravy (No. 404) to simmer for a few moments until it is absorbed, bestrewing the ravioles with grated cheese; pour over a thin tomato puree (No. 730) serving a clear gravy (No. 404) separately.. (1616). MUTTON KIDNEYS A LA BUETEL (Eognons de Mouton a la Burtel). Suppress both the skin and fatty parts from eight kidneys; separate each one into two and lay them in a pan with melted butter, and a pinch of shallot; toss quickly and when well seized, season with salt, pepper, and a dash of cayenne pepper; as fast as their humidity is reduced lift them up with a skimmer and lay in a small vessel. Pour a quarter of a pint of Madeira wine into the pan, let reduce to half, then add as much melted glaze (No. 402); boil the liquid, and thicken it at once With small bits of kneaded butter (No. 579); at the first boil stir in the kidneys, and at the same time two tablespoonfuls of cooked ham cut in small dice, and a pinch of chopped up tarragon. Remove the stew from the fire, pour it into a dish and surround with fried bread croutons glazed with a brush. 538 THE EPICUREAN. (1617). MUTTON KIDNEYS A LA SOUBISE (Rognons de Mouton a la SouMse). There is a certain way of splitting the kidneys and running them on skewers so that when cooked they form a very distinct hollow in the center; for this it requires that they be split deeply on the hollow side, opened, and two skewers thrust through the entire thickness, each side of the fat so that the meats come together again while cooking, the center forming a pocket; season and roll them in melted butter, broil over a good fire, then withdraw the skewers, and glaze the kidneys with a brush. Dress them on a dish and fill in the hollow with a slightly consistent soubise puree (No. 723), laid on through a small pocket or paper cornet. Serve them at once; the soubise may be replaced by a bearnaise sauce (No. 433). (1618). MUTTON KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS (Rognons de Mouton en Brochettes). Select fine chocolate colored mutton kidneys, for those either black or pale yellow are of a poorer quality. Split them three-quarters through the round part, so as to open without separating the pieces; suppress the light skin that covers the surfaces, spread them out, and stick a metal skewer FIG. 341. through their thickness, to keep them entirely opened; season with salt, coat with oil or melted butter, and roll them in bread-crumbs, then broil with the open side toward the fire; five or six minutes after turn them over and lay a piece of maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581), the size of a small hickory nut, on top of each, and after they are done, dress. The skewers may be removed before serving, and a little of the maitre d'hotel butter laid on top of each kidney. (1619). MUTTON KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS, BORDELAISE SAUCE (Brochettes de Rognons de Mou- ton a la Sauce Bordelaise). Cut the kidneys across in six pieces; have small inch squares of bacon an eighth of an inch thick, place an alternate piece of kidney and bacon on the skewers, season, dip in oil, and roll in bread-crumbs: broil over a brisk fire, serving with a separate bordelaise sauce (No. 436). (1620). MUTTON KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS, DEVILED (Rognons de Mouton en Brochettes a la Diable). Split the kidneys through on the round side, opening without separating the parts; spread open and thrust a metal skewer through; season with salt, and coat over with mustard and pre- pared red pepper (No. 168), roll in bread-crumbs, besprinkle with oil and broil, then dress them on a deviled sauce (No. 459). (1621). MUTTON KIDNEYS SAUTED WITH FLEURONS (Rognons de Mouton Sautes aux Fleurons). To obtain good sauted kidneys it should be well understood that they must be tossed over a brisk fire and fried, not cooked in their sauce; split eight mutton kidneys in two, obtaining sixteen, halves. Put three ounces of butter in a sauteing pan, and when hot add the kidneys laying them on their flat side; season with salt and pepper, then toss them over a bright fire until they are sized, but very rare, meaning that the meats are browned without drying. In another pan, fry two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, and when of a good color moisten with a little gravy (No. 404), brown sauce (No. 414) and white wine; boil this sauce quickly, stirring it for a few moments and when nicely thickened, add to it some cooked fine herbs (No. 385), lemon juice and the kidneys, heat well without boiling, dress and pour the sauce over. Garnish with some fanciful fleurons cut from puff paste parings (No. 146) made as follows: Cut the paste in the shape of minion filets of chicken; cut these through from the edge half way across the width, bring the two ends toward each other to form a half circle, this will open the cuttings, place on a baking sheet and cook in a mild oven. (1622). LEG OF MUTTON A LA BORDELAISE (Gigot de Mouton a la Bordelaise). Bone a leg of mutton without opening it, lard the inside of the meat with medium shreds of raw ham seasoned with salt, pepper and fine spices; fill in the hollow space with a few spoonfuls of veal and fat pork chopped up with fine herbs; sew up the opening. Saw the handle bone off short MUTTON. 539 and lay the leg in a braziere with melted salt pork and let fry on a slow flre for fifteen minutes, turning it so that it acquires a good color all over. Moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a), then cover the saucepan and let the liquid fall slowly to a glaze; remoisten to about the heigh th of the meat and continue cooking on a slow fire for an hour and a half, add to the meat a half pound of bUnched bacon cut in half inch squares, and boil moderately for an hour longer, then surround the meat with a garnishing of large carrots and turnips cut in three-quarter inch balls; twelve medium white onions browned in a pan with lard, salt and a pinch of sugar, two cloves of garlic and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf the meat and vegetables must both be done at the same time. Drain the leg, dress and range around the vegetables; strain and free the gravy from fat, thicken it with a little tomato sauce (No. 549) and serve in a sauce-boat. (1623). LEa OP MUTTON A LA BOURDALOUE (Gigot de Mouton a la Bourdaloue). Bone the leg without opening it, and lard the meat with raw ham, seasoned with salt, pepper, fine spices and chopped parsley. Tie up the leg and fry it in butter, then moisten with red wine and beef stock (No. 194a), and add small half inch blanched carrot balls, small onions and a gar- nished bunch of parsley, having the moistening to three-quarters the height of the leg, season and set it in a slow oven for three or four hours. After the leg is cooked, dress it on a dish, strain the stock, free it of its fat and reduce it with some brown sauce (No. 414). Garnish one side with the carrots and the other with the onions and at both ends place some mushrooms sauted in butter (No. 2760). Pour a part of the sauce over the onions and carrots and serve the rest in a sauce-boat. (1624). LEG OF MUTTON A LA BOUEGEOISE (Gigot de Mouton a la Bourgeoise). Bone a leg of mutton without opening it, lard it with large pieces of salt pork seasoned with salt, pepper, allspice and chopped parsley; cover the bottom of a braziere (Fig. 134) with slices of the same pork, lay the leg on top with a gill of Madeira wine and a little beef stock (194a), let fall to a glaze, then pour over more broth and a gill of brandy, and add a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, carrots and onions cut in four, one clove of garlic and a few peppers, moisten with some more stock and cook slowly allowing half an hour for each pound of meat. In the meanwhile prepare a garnishing of turned carrots and small onions, blanch and cook them separately till half done, then finish cooking in the leg of mutton braise strained for the purpose; in order to accomplish this, place the leg in another braziere and strain the stock over, when the meat is cooked and glazed surround it with clusters of the vegetables, reduce the liquid, pour half of it over the meat, and serve the other half in a sauce-boat. (1625). LEG OF MUTTON A LA OHIPOLATA (Gigot de Mouton a la Ohipolata). Select an eight pound leg of mutton, saw the handle off two inches below the joint, bone the loin end and pare well the fat; trim and round the end around the loin. Line a braziere (Fig. 134) with a layer of carrots and minced onions, adding the bones and parings from the meat, also a garnished bouquet; lay in the meat and moisten with beef stock (No. 194a) then cover the braziere and reduce till the liquid falls to a glaze; remoisten to three-quarters its height with more broth, let come to a boil, skim and set it in the oven to cook for three to three hours and a half, being careful to baste it constantly during this time. Kemove the leg, strain the stock and return both it and the leg to the braziere with some square pieces of breast of pork fried in butter, mushroom heads, small onions fried in butter, roasted chestnuts and fried sausages (No. 754) having their skin suppressed; let the whole simmer slowly for one hour, skim off the fat, dress the leg ranging the garnishings tastefully around; pour the sauce over and serve. (1626). LEG OF MUTTON A LA EEGLAIN (Gigot de Mouton a la Eeglain). Bone a leg of mutton without opening, place it in an earthen vessel and pour over a cold cooked marinade (No. 114); marinate it for twelve hours, then lard the meat with medium-lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52) and lay it on a dish to coat over with lard; roast it and when it has attained a fine color, pour over its strained marinade and finish the cooking, keeping it basted at short in- tervals. Prepare some slices of tongue and cover each one with a croquette preparation made with sheep's brains, minced mushrooms, veloute sauce (No. 415), chopped parsley, egg-yolks and fresh butter; dust with bread-crumbs, dip in eggs and fry. Dress and garnish the leg around with the slices of tongue, and serve with a separate marinade sauce (No. 496). 540 THE EPICUREAN. (1627). LEG OF MUTTON A LA ROEDERER (Gigot de Mouton a la Koederer). Prepare and cook a leg of mutton on the spit, reserve carefully the dripping pan stock; half an hour before serving blanch half a pound of small macaroni for ten minutes, drain, and lay it in the dripping pan under the meat. Prick the leg with a trussing needle to let its blood fall on the macaroni. When the leg is cooked, drain and dress on a vegetable dish layers of the maca- roni alternated with grated parmesan, and so on until finished; pour some clear gravy (No. 404) over into which a little tomato puree (No. 730) has been added. Dress the meat, garnish the handles with a frill (No. 10) and serve a little clear gravy separately. (1628). BOILED LEG OF MUTTON, GKANVILLE (Gigot de Mouton Bouilli k la Granville). Saw off short the end bone of a leg of mutton, suppress all superfluous fat, and weigh it. plunge it into a large soup-pot containing boiling, salted water, cover, and continue to boil until the leg is cooked, which will require fifteen minutes for every pound of meat. Boiled legs of mut- ton should always be cooked rare. Have already prepared a garnishing of carrot balls, three-quarters of an inch in diameter, blanched and cooked in beef stock (No. 194a); small boiled onions; olive shaped potatoes, boiled, drained and then rolled in a little fresh butter with chopped parsley and lemon juice, and cork-shaped turnips, blanched and cooked in beef stock; form a handle about two inches long by scraping the end bone clean. Dress the leg, glaze the surf ace and garnish around with clusters of the vegetables. Serve at the same time a buttered tomatoed veloute sauce (No. 415). Just when ready to send to table, arrange a paper frill (No. 10) on the end bone and serve. (1629). BOILED LEG OF MUTTON WITH MASHED TUKNIPS AND CAPER SAUCE (Gigot de Mouton Bouilli k la Puree de Navets et k la Sauce aux Capres). With Mashed Turnips. Have a leg of mutton prepared and cooked as explained a la Gran- ville (No. 1628). Put to boil with the leg after it has been in the water for half an hour, two pounds of turnips cut in four; when done mash them to a pulp and pass through a sieve, season with salt, nutmeg and a little sugar and add four ounces of butter, lay this around the meat, serving some clear gravy separately. With Caper Sauce. Garnish around the leg with boiled potatoes, and serve with a butter sauce (No. 440) into which nonpareil capers have been added. (1630). LEG OF MUTTON A LA MILAN AISE-ZERNEL (Noix de Gigot de Mouton a la Milanaise). Remove the kernels from four legs of mutton, the same as the kernel of veal; free the top from fat and sinews and lard it with lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52); line a braziere with slices of fat pork, set the ker- nels on top and wet with one pint of mirepoix (No. 419); reduce the liquid to a mere nothing, then remoisten to three-quarters of their heighth adding two gills of brandy. Cook it in the oven until done, being careful to baste frequently; prepare a rice socle, lay the kernel on top, glaze and garnish around with small macaroni timbales Milanaise (No. 2988). Serve the stock reduced with espag- nole sauce (No. 414) separately. (1631). LEG OF MUTTON IN PAPERS-KERNELS (Noix de Gigot de Mouton en Papillotes). Remove the kernel from a leg of mutton the same as for a kernel of veal; pare it nicely, take off all the fat and lard it with small lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), then roast it quite rare, cut it in quarter inch thick slices. Have a sufficiently large sheet of paper, cut it into heart-shape, butter over and lay a little finely sliced ham on top of one side; over this place some Duxelle (No. 385) well reduced with a clove of garlic and chopped parsley, and set the slices of mutton on top, cover the whole with more Duxelle, then fold the paper, crimp the edges around; before finishing the crimping pour a little Madeira sauce (No. 492), and finish plaiting the paper to enclose hermetically, lay the paper on the dish intended for the table, pour over a little oil and push it into a moderate oven, when nicely browned, serve separately with a very hot Duxelle sauce (No. 461) to which some Madeira wine has been added. (1632). LEG OF MUTTON A LA LYONNAISE-MINCED (EmincS de Gigot de Mouton a la Lyonnaise). Pare and suppress all the fat from a cold cooked leg of mutton, cut it in slices and fry these in a little butter, season with salt and pepper, parsley and lemon juice, and just when ready to serve pour off the butter and add a piece of meat glaze (No. 402). Dress the meat crown-shaped on a dish. MUTTON. 541 Fry some minced and blanched onions in butter; when a fine golden color, drain off the butter and add some veloute sauce (No. 415) and cream; reduce well and then pour it over the slices, bestrew chopped parsley over and serve very hot. (1633). LEG OF MUTTON ON THE SPIT (Gigot de Mouton a la Broche), Pick out a leg with a short handle bone, and very rounded at its thickest part, having a thin transparent skin and covered with white fat near the tail. Let it hang as long as possible to be tender. When it is required for use, pare nicely, remove the aitchbone, saw off the knuckle and make a handle two inches long; scrape the bone very white. Lay the leg on the spit thrusting the split in near the end bone, letting it come out at the loin bone, then cover over with sheets of well buttered paper. One hour and twenty minutes before serving, lay it in front of the fire, baste often, when nearly cooked salt over. Just when ready to serve withdraw the spit, dress and pour over some clear gravy (No. 404); trim the end bone with a paper frill (No. 10). Serve separately a sauce-boatful of clear gravy (No. 404). U634). LEG OP MUTTON, PAKISTAN STYLE, IN THE OVEN (Gigot de Mouton k la Parisienne au Four). Saw off the handle of the leg below the knuckle bone; insert a piece of garlic near the handle, then lay the meat in a baking pan: pour some good drippings and water over and roast it in the oven, adding a little more water every time the fat clarifies in order to prevent it burning; when cooked, dress the leg, surrounding it with large olive-shaped potatoes cooked with butter in a slow oven and baste the leg with the gravy, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. Trim the handle (Fig. 164) with a paper frill (No. 10) or one of silver used for this purpose. (1635). LEG OF MUTTON WITH PUEEE OF BEANS (Gigot de Mouton k la Pure~e de Haricots). Pound half a pound of chopped fat salt pork with an equal quantity of cooked ham, bread-crumbs, two eggs, a finely shredded shallot, previously fried in butter, parsley, and a tiny bit of crushed garlic; cut some thin slices of a leg of mutton, flatten to three-sixteenths of an inch, pare to two inch squares, season them with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cover one side with the prepared forcemeat, roll them up and run a skewer through each; dip them into melted butter, roll in bread- crumbs, and broil over a slow fire to attain a good color, then dress them on a puree of white beans (No. 706), with a little clear gravy (No. 404) poured over the whole. (1636). LEG OF MUTTON WITH BICE (Gigot de Mouton au Eiz). Bone a leg of mutton; remove the aitchbone and the large bone as far as the joint; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and fill the inside with a pork stuffing as in No. 68, mixing with it half its quantity of boiled and finely chopped ham, as much bread-crumbs as ham, an ounce of chopped onion, a clove of crushed and chopped garlic, and two egg-yolks. Sew up the leg so as to secure the forcemeat enclosed therein. Melt half a pound of fat pork, fry the leg in it, drain off the fat, season, and moisten to three quarters its height with stock (No. 194a), adding to the liquid two medium onions, stuck with two cloves, and four peeled and quartered tomatoes; allow the leg to cook slowly for three hours, then strain off the stock, free it of its fat and take away a third part, returning this to the leg after having untied it. Add to the other two parts, half a pound of Carolina rice and let cook for twenty minutes, then put in some butter and grated cheese, stirring it in with a fork. Dress the leg, glaze it over and decorate the handle bone with a paper frill (No. 10); garnish around with the rice, strain the stock from the leg once more, skim off its fat, reduce to half and serve it in a separate sauce-boat. (1637). LOIN OF MUTTON EOASTED, ON THE SPIT OK IN THE OVEN (Longe de Mouton Kotie k la Broche ou au Four). Have a three pound loin of mutton; bone it entirely without detaching the minion fillet; remove the skin covering the fat and roll the flank over on itself as far as the minion fillet, then tie it firmly with five rounds of string, making a knot in each round, giving the loin the shape of a long square. Set it to roast either on the spit or in the oven; if for the former it will take from thirty to forty minutes, and a few more if for the latter. When the loin is cooked and of a fine color, untie, dress, and glaze it, strain the gravy, free it of its fat, and serve a part of it under the meat and the re- mainder separately. 542 THE EPICUREAN. (1638). LOIN WITH PUREE OF OAKKOTS (Longe a la Puree de Garottes), Suppress part of the fat without uncovering the meat from a loin of mutton; beat and flatten the flap, bone the loin without separating the tenderloin from the fillet, then season with salt, mignonette and nutmeg; roll it up in the shape of a muff and tie it well, lay the meat in a saucepan with some grated fat pork and let fry to a fine golden color; drain off the fat and moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a) and a gill of brandy, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; cover over with a strong sheet of buttered paper, set it on the fire and when it comes to a boil push it into a moderate oven until thoroughly cooked, then untie, glaze and dress on a puree of carrots (No. 709). (1639), NECK OP MUTTON JUGGED AND MAKINATED, THICKENED WITH BLOOD (Collet de Mouton Civet Marinade Lie au Sang). Bone a neck of mutton, remove all the sinews and fat and then cut it up into one and a quarter inch square pieces; lay them in a vessel to season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, sprigs of parsley, minced onions, oil, a little vinegar, bay leaf and thyme; let marinate for two hours, then drain and wipe off the pieces. Heat four ounces of butter in a saucepan, add to it the meat and fry them well, dredge in two spoonfuls of flour and moisten with one pint of red or white wine and stock (No.l94a) in a way that the meat is covered; add a garnished bunch of parsley and leave to cook for an hour and a half, putting in half an hour before serving, some small glazed white onions and cooked mush- rooms. The meat being now well done and properly seasoned, take out the parsley and thicken the sauce either with some pig's or chicken's blood, then serve. (1640). SCOTCH HAGGIS (Panse Oaillette), In a quart of water boil one pound of calf's liver until throughly done; chop it up finely with one pound of beef suet, free of skin and fibres, one pound of lean beef from the rump, one pound of onions and add an ounce of salt, an ounce of ground pepper, one pound of oatmeal and the water the liver was boiled in. With this preparation fill a well-cleaned sheep's paunch, sew it up with strong thread and wrap it in a buttered cloth; plunge it into boiling water and let cook gently for four hours; prick it several times while cooking with a trussing needle; drain, unwrap a few moments later and turn it over on a hot dish. Serve at the same time cakes made with three pounds of oatmeal, one pound of wheat flour, an ounce of lard and salt. These cakes are eight inches in diameter and one-eighth of an inch thick; bake them in a slow oven. (1641). MUTTON PILAU, FRENCH STYLE (Pilau de Mouton a la Franpaise). Remove the fat and bones from the thick end of a loin of mutton; divide the meats into regu- lar one and a half inch pieces and fry them in butter for ten minutes; add sliced carrots and onions, mushroom peelings and salt; moisten to three-quarters of the height with mutton broth made with the bones and trimmings; reduce the moisture slowly to a glaze, then moisten and reduce once more; re- moisten for the third time to the full height and continue to boil slowly until the meats are very nearly done, now lift them out one by one, pare nicely, and place them in a charlotte mold or a special tinned copper saucepan, provided with a hermetically fitted lid (Fig. 34a), strain the FIG. 342. liquid over the meats, letting it reach slightly above their height and add three spoonfuls of tomato puree (No. 730), atablespoonful of powdered sweet Spanish peppers and a little cayenne pepper. Boil, then add half a pound of well-picked and washed Carolina rice, dried for an hour on a sieve; close the saucepan hermetically and set it in the oven to cook the contents for twenty minutes without touching it the rice should be kept quite whole. Serve this stew in a tureen or vegetable dish or else in the saucepan itself. (1642). QUARTER OP MUTTON WITH GASTRONOME POTATOES (Quartier de Mouton aux Pommes Gastronome), Suppress and trim the end bone of the leg by sawing it off two inches from the shank bone; cut the meat away evenly two inches deep, and scrape the bone free from meat. Bone the spine as far as the beginning of the ribs and saw it through its whole length; roll the flap over and tie it down; put the quarter on the spit, passing the bar alongside the handle, letting it come out at the loin bone, and follow along the minion fillet; maintain the meat in position with skewers, equalize the weight well, so that the spit turns evenly and fasten the handles firmly. Cover the quarter over MUTTON. 543 with a buttered paper, and one hour and a quarter before serving, put the spit in front of the fire; fifteen minutes before dinner, unwrap and let it brown nicely; withdraw it from the spit, glaze, dress and garnish around with gastronome potatoes (No. 2789), and trim the end bone with a fluted paper frill (No. 10); pour over a rather thin half -glaze sauce (No. 413), and serve. (1643), EAOK OF MUTTON WITH SMALL EOOTS (Carre" de Mouton aux Petites Eacines), Have two racks of six ribs each and five inches wide; beginning at the fillet, bone the loin on the spine end, and saw through the spinal bone, pare the racks and lard it with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), then place the two racks in a sautoir containing slices of fat pork, carrots, onions, cloves, a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), moisten with a pint of water, reduce entirely and re- moisten to three-quarters of its heighth with beef stock (No. 194a); let cook for one hour, basting frequently in such a FlG way that they become both cooked and glazed at the same time. Dress the racks on a garnishing of small roots cut in balls, or else on a garnishing of cream chiccory puree (No. 729). (1644). SADDLE OP MUTTON, DUCHESS STYLE (Selle de Mouton, a la Duchesse). Pare and shorter the rib bones above the flaps; cut these off straight and with the tip of a knife, separate the rings of the spinal bones at equal distances apart; tie it firmly and lay it on a spit to cook for one hour to one hour and a quarter according to its size; baste frequently while cook- ing, untie, salt, brown and glaze the meat. Dress and garnish around with duchess potatoes (No. 2785) and the ends with spinach rissoles prepared as explained (No. 161), filling them with spinach (No. 2820). A separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413) is to be served at the same time. (1645), SADDLE OF MUTTON, GEEMAN STYLE (Selle de Mouton a 1'Allemande). Braise a saddle exactly as explained for the saddle with glazed roots (No. 1649). Half an hour before serving, drain and cover the surface with a lamb forcemeat (No. 92), and raw fine herbs that have been mingled with some allemande sauce (No. 407). Finish cooking in a moderate oven and when done, glaze and dress the meat on an oval dish, garnishing around with carrots and green peas sauted together. (1646). SADDLE OF MUTTON. PIEDMONTESE STYLE (Selle de Mouton a la Pie"montaise). Have a good saddle of mutton, hang it in a cool place for eight days to have it tender; pare the two fillets, suppress all the fat and skin adhering to the meat so as to be able to lard it with larding pork, then roll the flanks under. Tie up the saddle, lay it in an English cradle spit (Fig. 344), after it has been wrapped in a buttered paper, and let roast in front of a moderate fire for an hour and a quarter, basting it frequently during the time; remove the paper to let attain a good color, then untie it on a baking pan, detach the two fillets, leaving on some of the fat; cut them up slanting and replace them from whence they were taken. In the meantime prepare a Piedmontese risot (No. 739), and just when ready to serve dress the saddle on a releve dish with the risot; be- sprinkle over with a few handfnls of chopped white Piedmontese truffles, glaze it over and send to the table accompanied by a sauce-boat of thickened gravy (No. 405). (1647). SADDLE OF MUTTON, PEINTANIEEE (Selle de Mouton Printaniere). Prepare and braise a saddle the same as for the one with glazed roots (No. 1649), half an hour before serving, glaze the surface of the meat, strain the stock and reduce with Madeira sauce (No. 492). Dress the saddle on a long dish with a macedoine garnishing (No. 680) around it alter- nating the colors. Pour a little of the sauce under the saddle; glaze it properly and serve the remainder of the sauce-boat apart. (1648). SADDLE OF MUTTON EOASTED ON THE SPIT (Selle de Mouton Eotie a la Broche). The saddle is the whole loin and first rib; cut off the two legs below the tail in a round-shape, direct- ing the knife toward the flanks (Fig, 340). Carefully remove the fat both on the top and the under toward the loin end, and part of the kidney fat. Roll the flanks of the meat over on themselves. 544 THE EPICUREAN. make incisions in the fat on the top of the saddle, more or less deep according to its thickness, and keep the saddle in position with four or five rounds of string. Place the saddle on the spit, hold it in place with skewers run through the flanks of the meat and the holes in the spit; thrust a fork into the meat of the sirloin near the bone, and place on the top a long skewer, tying it firmly FIG. 344. at the two ends. Cover the meat with several sheets of buttered paper, tie them on, and one hour and a quarter before serving roast the saddle before a good, clear and well regulated fire. Fifteen minutes before serving, unwrap, glaze over and let it acquire a fine color; dress it on a very hot long dish, pour over some clear gravy (No. 404), and serve at the same time a sauce- boatful of clear gravy (No. 404), and half-glaze sauce (No. 413), half of each. (1649). SADDLE OF MUTTON WITH GLAZED ROOTS-BRAISED (Selle de Mouton Braised aux Eacines Glacees). Cut the loin parts beginning at the first rib; cut off the two legs below the tail, in a round direction going toward the flank, remove the thin skin covering the fat, and roll the flank over, keeping it in position with six rounds of string, tying a knot at each round. Place the meat in a braziere having the grater or leaf covered with sliced pork, moisten with two quarts of stock (No. 194a) adding half a pound of grated fat pork, two carrots, two onions, two bunches of parsley gar- nished with thyme and bay leaf, and one gill of brandy; three hours before serving let it come to a boil on a brisk fire, baste the meat covered with a heavy and strongly buttered paper, then set it in the oven being careful to watch that it simmers slowly until it is cooked; ten minutes before serving drain it on a baking pan, untie carefully, coat it over with glaze, and glaze it in the oven. Dress the saddle, glaze it afresh and group around clusters of glazed new carrots, glazed onions and celery root. Strain the stock, remove the fat and reduce with brown sauce (No. 413) and Madeira, this sauce to be served separately. a 650). SADDLE OK BARON IN THE OVEN WITH MASHED POTATOES (Selle ou Baron au Pour & la Pure~e de Pommes). Prepare a saddle or baron of mutton the same as for No. 1648; after it has been pared and tied, wrap it up and lay it in a deep baking pan coated over with fat; add a little water, then put it in the oven to cook for an hour to an hour and a quarter, unwrap fifteen minutes before serving; FIG. 345. glaze, color nicely, then dress it on a hot long dish; pour some clear gravy (No. 404) over and serve at the same time a sauce-boat of clear gravy reduced to a half-glaze, also a vegetable dish full of mashed potatoes (No. 2798), or else olive-shaped potatoes cooked in butter. (1C51), SHOULDER OF MUTTON, MARINATED WITH CREAM SAUCE (Epaule de Moutou Marine'e Sauce k la Creme). Bone the shoulder as far as half way down the shank bone; lard the inside of the meat with small lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52), seasoned with salt and pepper, then set it into a vessel and pour over a cooked and cold marinade (No. 114), leaving it in for twelve hours. Line a saucepan with bards of fat pork and sliced carrots and onions; roll and tie the shoulder and lay it on top; moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a), and when reduced to a glaze, remoisten and cook the MUTTON. 545 meat to a fine color in the oven for three hours and a half; remove the shoulder, skim the fat from the stock, add one pint of cream to the stock, and let simmer for a few minutes; strain through a sieve and reduce to the consistency of a good sauce, adding to it a very little bread- crumbs; serve this at the same time as the shoulder. (1652). SHOULDER OP MUTTON WITH POTATOES (Epaule de Mouton aux Pommes de Terre). Bone two shoulders of mutton leaving on the handles only; suppress the sinews and skin from the inside meats, season and roll up lengthwise, sewing them well; put them into a small roasting- pan lined with fragments of salt pork, and pour melted butter over, and cook them till three- quarters done in a moderate oven, turning them over and adding a little water, should the fat threaten to burn. A few minutes before serving season with salt. Cut into medium slices some raw peeled potatoes; mince three or four white onions, and fry them with butter in a sautoir over a slow fire; when they begin to brown add the potatoes, season and fry together for seven or eight minutes. Kemove the meat to lay it on a long earthen dish capable of going in the oven, set the potatoes around, aud baste them, also the meat with the strained fat from the pan; let the shoulders cook in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes longer, then dress and garnish the handles with paper frills (No. 10) and lay the potatoes around them. (1653). SHOULDEE OF MUTTON WITH EIOE dpaule de Mouton au Eiz). Cut into small two inch squares a shoulder of young mutton; put them into a saucepan with hot butter, and let fry on a brisk fire until they take a color: season, and add a few spoonfuls of raw ham cut in dice, and a bunch of parsley garnished with one bay leaf, as much thyme and a clove of garlic. Fry all together fcr a few moments, then moisten to their heighth with stock (No. 194a), and half a pint of tomato sauce (No. 549); when the liquid has boiled for five minutes remove the saucepan on a more moderate fire, and when the meats are partially or three-quarters done, put in a sufficient quantity of rice corresponding to the volume of the third of the liquid,- cook, this rice for fifteen minutes, then set the saucepan into a slow oven to finish cooking both rice and meat. Pour the stew into a vegetable dish and serve. (1654). SHOULDEE OF MUTTON WITH TUENIPS (E'paule de Mouton aux Navets). Bone a shoulder of mutton keeping the shank bone on; remove all sinews from the inside meats as well as the fat, and lard with medium lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52); season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, then roll it up and tie. Put some clarified butter in a saucepan with the shoulder, fry it to a fine color, then moisten with stock (No. 194a) or water, adding some medium-sized carrots cut in four, and two medium onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, and a clove of garlic, let sim- mer for two hours. Withdraw the carrots, onions, pud parsley, and replace them by some turnips pared into olive or clove of garlic shape, and fried in butter with a little sugar; let the whole cook slowly for an hour and a half, making three and a half hours in all, skim oif the fat, season to taste, and dress the shoulder with the turnips around, then reduce the stock, strain, pour part of it over the meat and serve what remains in a sauce-boat. (1655). SHEEP'S TAILS WITH OLIVES (Queues de Mouton anx Olives). Suppress the thin ends of eight tails previously parboiled; put them into a saucepan with half it pound of lard, two onions and a half minced carrot; fry the whole together, seasoning well, and when they are a nice color, dredge over with two ounces of flour; moisten with hot stock (No. 194a) and white wine. Boil the liquid for ten minutes, then remove it to the side of the range or else set it in the oven until the tails are cooked; strain the sauce through a sieve, skim the fat off carefully, and add to it a quarter of a pint of white wine; reduce until properly thickened. Pare the tails, lay them in the sauce to heat and add some stoned Spanish olives; a few minutes later, serve on a very hot dish and surround with the garnishing of olives, puree of potatoes (No. 725) or risot (No. 739). (1656). MUTTON TENDONS WITH MUSHROOMS (Tendrons de Mouton aux Champignons). Cut the tendons from the end of the breast; braise, then lay them under a weight, and when cold cut them up into escalops, and dip in Villeroi sauce (No. 560), fry in clarified butter; dress crown-shaped with stewed mushrooms and cream in the middle. 546 THE EPICUREAN. (1657). SHEEP'S TONGUES, EOAELATE WITH SPINACH (Langues de Mouton E'carlate aux Epinards). Have several sheep's tongues; prick them with a trussing needle, and rub over with a little powdered saltpetre; keep them in a cool place until the following day; then prepare a brine of salt water, stir it to dissolve the salt, having enough of it to enable a potato to float on the sur- face. Ly the tongues in an earthen crock, pour the salted water over, and a few days after when sufficiently red, soak them for twelve hours, and then blanch in plenty of water. Braise the tongues in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) moistened with white wine, and let boil; when cooked set them under a weight, pare and keep warm; dress and garnish with cooked spinach (No. 2820). Serve a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) apart. (1658), SHEEP'S TONGUES, NEAPOLITAN STYLE (Langues de Mouton a la Napolitaine), Blanch and then braise the tongues for two hours in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) with white wine; when cooked pull off the white skin that covers them and lay them under a weight. Split the tongues lengthwise in two, cover the flat side with some Duxelle (No. 385), dip them in beaten eggs and fry; dress in a circle filling in the center with some Neapolitan macaroni (No. 2960), and serve with a tomato sauce (No. 549) mixed with half-glaze sauce (No. 413). 0659). SHEEP'S TEOTTEES A LA POULETTE (Pieds de Mouton a la Poulette). Prepare and cook them as for the vinaigrette (No. 1660); then drain. Put some veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom liquor into a saucepan, add the trotters and some turned or channeled mushrooms (No. 118) previously cooked. Boil, season with salt and pepper, and thicken with egg-yolks diluted in cream, and just when ready to serve incorporate fresh butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley. (1660). SHEEP'S TEOTTEES A LA VINAIGEETTE (Pieds de Mouton a la Vinaigrette). Should they have to be prepared at home they would need scalding and scraping with a knife in order to remove all the hairs; cut the soles from the hoofs so as to suppress a part of the woolly tuft found thereon; cut the ends of the ergots, tie the feet, four of them together, and blanch until they boil; then drain and refresh, place them in a soup-pot, covering them over with cold water, adding salt, pepper, spices, a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), onions, carrots and one ounce of flour diluted in cold water. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the vessel and cook the feet for five hours, when done take out the shank bone which easily detaches without the slightest effort. Just when ready to serve untie and drain; remove the leg bone and wipe the feet on a cloth; dress them on a hot dish with a napkin under, and surround with green parsley leaves. Serve a vinaigrette sauce (No. 634) separately. LA.MB OVgneau). (1661). BAEON OF YEARLING LAMB A LA DE EIVAS (Baron d'Agneau Tardif a la de Eivas). Cut a baron from the hind part of the lamb from the first rib to the loin bone (Fig. 340). Roast it on the spit or in the oven, and when done trim and dress on a dish; glaze with meat glaze (No. 402) and garnish around with twelve stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842) and twelve stuffed mush- rooms (No. 692) and outside of these set small bouchees filled with cream spinach (No. 2820), place on top a ball of potato croquette (No. 2782) one inch in diameter. An aromatic tomato sauce (No. 549) to be served apart. (1662). BREASTS OF LAMB, BAKED (Poitrines d'Agneau an Gratin). Prepare and cook the breasts the same as for chopped sauce (No. 1663); put them under a weight or in the press (Fig. 71) and press to five-eighths of an inch thick, and when cold pare by removing the skin and part of the fat; cut into an oblong shape, then cover with a baking force- meat (No. 81); lay on top of each three mushrooms, one large and two small ones; place them on a well-buttered baking dish, pour over an Italian sauce (No. 484), bestrew with bread raspings and besprinkle with butter, then brown in the oven; serve on the same dish and garnish the sides with round cuts of red beef tongue warmed in a little meat glaze (No. 402), with butter and lemon juice. (1663). BEEASTS OF LAMB, CHOPPED SAUCE (Poitrine d'Agneau a la Sauce Hachee). Have two fine breasts of yearling lamb or young mutton; suppress the bone part covering the gristle; lay the meats in a low saucepan lined with bardes of fat pork, cut up carrots and onions, and a garnished bouquet; moisten with stock (No. 194a) cover over with buttered paper and set it into a moderate oven to cook for two to two hours and a half, until the bones can be easily removed. Drain and place the meats under the pressure of a weight to reduce to five-eighths of an inch, and when quite cold, pare and remove the skin carefully without touching the fat, and cut the meat up into half hearts, trim them, nicely rounding the angles, and dip them in melted butter, roll in bread-crumbs, and broil over a slow fire till they attain a fine color and are very hot, then dress them either in a straight row or in a circle. Garnish around with olive-shaped pieces of potato cooked in fresh butter, and when done, and the butter is drained off, add some salt and the juice of a lemon, dredging over with chopped parsley. Serve a chopped sauce (No. 539) separately. (1664). BEEAST OF LAMB WITH TUENIPS (Poitrine d'Agneau aux Navetsl Remove the skin covering the breast, also the gristle bone from two breasts of lamb; cut them up into three-quarters of an inch square pieces and fry them till brown in butter, then drain off the fat and moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a); boil and reduce to a glaze; remoisten a very little at the time, repeating this several times while cooking, and three-quarters of an hour before serving, drain off the meats, pare and return them to the saucepan; strain the sauce over and add some turned turnips fried in butter, and continue the cooking, season properly. When the meats and turnips are well done and fallen to a glaze, dress the turnips around. (1665). BEEAST OF LAMB WITH VELOUTE TOMATO SAUCE STUFFED (Poitrine d'Agneau Farcie k la Sauce Tomate Veloute'e), Split open one or several yearling lamb breasts on the rib sides, by slipping the blade of a knife between the bone and the meat so as to make a pocket, season the inside and fill the empty space with forcemeat (No. 65), seasoned highly and to which add a handful of soaked and pressed out bread-crumbs, also some raw onions chopped and parboiled, cooked minced mushrooms and chopped parsley, each of them chopped up separately, and also stir in two whole eggs. Sew up the opening in the breast, cook it in beef stock (No. 194a) and when done properly, which will take about two hours and a half, drain and untie, then serve with a tomato sauce (No. 549) reduced with veloute sauce (No. 415). (547) 548 THE: EPICUREAN. (1666). OAEBONADE OP LAMB A LA JAEDINLEEE (Carbonado d'Agneau a la Jardiniere). A carbonade or loin is the end of the rack (Fig. 335), from where the cutlets begin as far down as where the tail begins. Chop off entirely the chine bone without detaching the minion fillet, remove the skin covering the large fillet over its entire outside surface, and lard the meat with medium lar- dons (No. 3, Fig. 52). Koll over the flap, tie it with six rounds of string, forming a knot at each round, and then lay the meat in a saucepan lined with slices of fat pork, veal, ham, cut up vegetables, a garnished bunch of parsley and allspice, salt it over lightly and wet it with a beef stock (No. 194a); let fall to a glaze, then remoisten to its height with white wine and stock; allow the boiling to continue for five minutes, then uncover the saucepan and place it in a moderate oven to finish cooking, being careful to baste it frequently with its own stock, having it finally assume a fine color. Glaze, untie, dress and strain and skim the liquid, reduce and serve it in a sauce-boat; garnish around the meat with a jardiniere garnishing (No. 677). (1667). CARBONADE OP LAMB A LA KAMBUTEAU (Oarbonade d'Agneau a la Eambuteau). Bone entirely, or else remove the aitchbone only, from a loin of lamb: suppress all the fat and sinews, also the skin that covers the sirloin and lard with medium-sized larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52) and season with salt, pepper and fine herbs; roll the flap over and tie. Line a saucepan with bardes of fat pork, lay the carbonade on top and moisten to its height with mirepoix stock (No. 419); and white wine boil, then simmer in the oven for two and a half to three hours; glaze, untie, dress on a long dish and garnish around with small glazed onions, mushroom heads and potato balls. Strain the stock, free it of fat and reduce it with as much veloute (No. 415), thicken with raw egg-yolks, fresh butter and lemon juice; strain it once more through a tammy, and use part of it to cover the garnishings, sending the remainder to the table separately. (1668). LAMB'S OEOWS, EAVIGOTE SAUCE (Praises d'Agneau a la Sauce Eavigote). Select two very white and clean lamb's crows. Line an earthen crock with slices of fat pork, range the crows on top and add to them two medium onions one having four cloves in it, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, salt and pepper; moisten with white wine and beef stock (No. 194a), cover the top with more slices of the pork, then place a deep plate over, filling it with water, and let cook slowly in a moderate oven for four hours, drain, and dress on a hot dish, surround the crows with sprigs of parsley and serve with ravigote sauce (No. 531). (1669). LAMB CUTLETS, PLAIN YEAELING (Ootelettes d'Agneau Tardif Nature). Five or six cutlets can be taken from a rack of yearling lamb, four or five from a spring lamb; remove the skin, cut them into any desired thickness, and should the rack be too thin, then cut them off on the bias. Remove and pare the bone from each chop, then beat down to flatten to half an inch in thickness, and trim them all around, removing the skin from each side of the rib bone; scrape about an inch of the end of the bone, clean off the meat and fat to enable it to be decorated with a paper frill; when cooked season with salt, coat over with butter or oil, place on the gridiron all on the same side and broil on a slow but well maintained fire. When cooked on FIG 346 one si(ie ' turn over and flnisb cooking on the other; the entire operation should take about six minutes; trim the handles with paper frills (No. 10), dress and serve with a little clear gravy (No. 404). (1670). LAMB CUTLETS A LA BUSSY (Cotelettes d'Agneau a la Bussy). Pare eight yearling lamb cutlets; season with salt, mask over with oil and broil quite rare on a brisk fire. Prepare beforehand a salpicon of truffles, sweetbreads and mushrooms all cut up into quarter inch pieces and mixed with a well reduced allemande sauce (No. 407); as soon as it be- comes quite cold, add to it dice pieces of duck's liver cut the same size. Spread this salpicon on the chops all on the same side rounding it well on top; cover over with a cream forcemeat (No. 75), besprinkle with finely chopped truffles and pour over a little melted butter. Place the chops in a slack oven to heat the salpicon, trim the bone handles, dress the chops flat on a light bechamel and cream sauce (No. 411). Serve with some of the same sauce in a separate sauce-boat. LAMB. 549 (1671). LAMB OUTLETS A LA OATALANE (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Catalane), Cut off twelve lamb cutlets; pare them with the bones quite short, beat them flat, salt over and roll in oil, range them on a broiler all one way, and broil the chops on a brisk fire on one side only. Reduce one pint of bechamel (No. 409) adding to it a few spoonfuls of mushroom broth, and when nicely thickened stir in some prepared red pepper (No. 168), four spoonfuls of cooked mushrooms, the same quantity of cooked lean ham, both well chopped separately, and let this preparation become cold. Cover the cooked sides with a layer of the preparation, having it dome-shaped on top; bestrew with grated parmesan, then lay them on a buttered sautoir and pour butter over; set this for one instant on top of the range, then finish cooking the cutlets in a hot oven and have the preparation well browned; remove them at once to garnish the handles with frills (No. 10) and dress with a half-glaze (No. 413) and tomato sauce (No. 549) containing shredded sweet peppers. (1672). LAMB OUTLETS A LA OHAKLEROI (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Oharleroi). Saute sufficient trimmed and seasoned lamb cutlets in butter; when done, drain and arrange them on a baking sheet one beside the other; cover over with a buttered paper and let get cold under the pressure of a light weight. Pare the cutlets once more and lay on one of their sides a reduced and thick soubise puree (No. 723) ; smooth and let harden for an hour, then lift up the cutlets one by one, and dip them in a Villeroi sauce (No. 560), allov, Jie surplus of this to drain off, then range them on a baking sheet, apart from one another so that they do not touch and keep this in a cool place to harden the sauce. Detach the cutlets from the sheet, trim off any surplus of sauce, and roll the chops in grated parmesan, dip them at once into beaten eggs, and cover over with white bread-crumbs; smooth the surfaces nicely and range them in a frying-basket (Fig. 121), plunge this into hot frying-fat, drain, trim the handles and serve on a folded napkin. (1673). LAMB OUTLETS A LA CLE'MENCE (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Cl&nence). Have ten well-pared fine cutlets seasoned with salt and pepper; saute them in butter, dress crown-shaped and fill the inside with a ragout made as follows: To a veloute sauce (No. 415) add some meat glaze, (No. 402) good Madeira wine and lemon juice, also escalops of lamb's sweetbreads fried in butter with minced mushrooms. Between each cutlet lay around slice of salted, unsmoked red beef tongue cut three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness and one inch and a half in diameter; garnish around with fine Julienne potatoes (No. 2792); trim the cutlet handles with frills, and serve very hot. (1674). LAMB OUTLETS A LA DURAND (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Durand). Pare eight lamb cutlets chosen from the covered sides of the rack; suppress the spinal bone and fibrous skin from the rib bones, flatten them slightly, season and saute them in butter, turning them over when they are half done, and finish cooking them properly. Prepare some very thin pancakes (No. 3078), cut them into heart-shapes, having them slightly smaller than papers would be, as there is no necessity to plait them; push a string of quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) through a pocket on the edges and on half the hearts only, put a little cooked fine herb sauce (No. 461), in the center, lay a cutlet over this, with some more of the sauce above; close and fasten the pancake hermet- ically together, and range them all on a buttered dish, set it in a slack oven for ten minutes, sprinkle butter over and serve on the same dish with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) poured around. (1675). LAMB OUTLETS ALA GAVAEDI (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Gavardi). Season eight fine lamb cutlets; range them in a sautoir lined with fragments of salt pork; roots and sliced onions; moisten to their height with stock (No. 194a) and cover with another piece of the pork; reduce the liquid slowly, remoisten once more, and finish to cook while glazing. Braise separately some rings of blanched carrot, and the same quantity of medium-sized onions each one weighing about an ounce, have also some braised lettuces (No. 2754), dress the cutlets on a dish in a circle, garnish the center with as many of the lettuces as there are cutlets and on each cutlet lay one of the carrot rings with an onion in the center, glaze the whole with meat glaze (No. 402). Reduce the braise stock after it has been strained and freed of fat, with a little espagnole (No. 414) and Marsala wine; serve this in a sauce-boat. 550 THE EPICUREAN. (1676). LAMB OUTLETS, GIRALDA (Cotelettes d'Agneau a la Giralda). First saute ten fine cutlets, then set them under a weight and pare them when cold. Cut some sweet Spanish onions into three-sixteenth of an inch square pieces, blanch and cook them in butter, not allowing them to attain color, then add the same quantity of cooked sweet Spanish peppers and thicken the whole with a well-seasoned and reduced veloute (No. 415), allow it to cool, mask the cutlets with this preparation, smooth nicely dome-shaped and cover over with a well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407); bestrew grated parmesan over and brown in the oven. Pour a supreme sauce (No. 547), finished with shrimp butter (No. 587) in the bottom of the dish, garnish the cutlet handles with frills (No. 10) and range them on top of the sauce. (1677;. LAMB CUTLETS, LEVERRIER (Cotelettes d'Agneau a la Leverrier). Broil some well pared, first cut cutlets; have as many one and three-quarter inch diameter tin rounds with slightly raised edges; butter and decorate the bottoms with a star each point of which should be formed one half of tongue and the other half of truffle. Cover the cut- lets with a layer of forcemeat and place them in buttered bottomless cutlet shaped molds, so that the cutlet is enveloped in forcemeat and fills them up entirely; smooth well the surface and then turn over on the widest part, the star decorated tin round, so that the decoration is exactly on the kernel. Put them for a few moments into a moderate oven and after the forcemeat is poached, lift off both the tin round and the mold molding the chop. Pare some artichoke bottoms two inches in diameter, season and fry them in butter, then dress them flat in a circle and lay a cutlet on top of each; trim the handles with frills (No. 10), pour a little half-glaze (No. 400) in the bottom of the dish and serve separately a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with orange juice and butter added at the last moment. (1678). LAMB OUTLETS A LA MAINTENOff (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Maintenon). Trim, pare and season twelve lamb cutlets; saute them over a brisk fire, having them rare, then drain, wipe and cover both sides with a well-reduced soubise sauce (No. 543), into which some cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped parsley have been added; when cold dip in beaten eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, smooth the surfaces with the blade of a knife and saute them in clarified butter; dress each cutlet on a peeled, halved and pressed out tomato already fried iri butter, and surround the whole with three-quarters of an inch in diameter balls of potatoes, blanched and fried in butter; a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) to be served in a sauce-boat. (1679). LAMB CUTLETS A LA MAISON FOR (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Maison d'Or). Trim some slices of bread cut three-sixteeriths of an inch in thickness, into half heart shapes; fry them in butter and when cold cover the surfaces with some foies-gras in terrine, rounding it on the tops and set them in the oven for one instant to heat only. Dress in a circle and place a cooked cutlet on each slice of bread and lay some minced truffles in the center, cover the whole with Madeira sauce (No. 492) and garnish the handles with a frill (No. 10), then serve. (1680). LAMB CUTLETS A LA MINUTE, WITH MUSHROOMS, SAUTED (Ootelettes d'Agneau Saute"es a la ,Minute aux Champignons). Pare a dozen lamb cutlets; season, then cook over a brisk fire inasautoir with clarified butter, turning them round when a fine color on one side; brown both sides alike and cook them till done, then drain off the butter and baste them with a little melted light meat glaze (No. 402) and Madeira, reduce on a quick fire to dry the meat on both sides. Lay the cutlets on a dish, trim the handles with a frill (No. 10) and dress them crown-shaped, have Madeira sauce (No. 492), add to it some minced mushrooms, and pour the whole into the center of the crown or else in a croustade. (1681). LAMB OUTLETS, MURILLO (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Murillo). Pare twelve lamb cutlets having them both wide and thin; range them in a sautoir with hot butter, laying them all one way; cook on one side only, then drain and cover this cooked side with slightly cold minced mushrooms reduced and thickened with some good bechamel (No. 409) finish- ing with a dash of cayenne pepper, smooth the surface of these mushrooms nicely, dredge over with grated parmesan, sprinkle with melted butter. Return the chops to the sautoir, and set it in the hot oven to finish cooking and brown. Dress them at once on separate plates with a little half-glaze (No. 400) on the bottom and hand them to the guests. LAMB. 551 (1682). LAMB OUTLETS A LA NUBIAN (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Nubienne), Cook and dress them the same as cutlets a la minute (No. 1680), garnish the center of the circle with minced truffles minced mushrooms, rounds of red beef tongue cut one inch across, and an eighth of an inch thick, the whole mingled with veloute sauce (No. 415) and essence of mushrooms (No. 392). Place around the edge of the dish a few ball-shaped rice croquettes an inch and a quarter in diameter and serve the whole very hot. (1683). LAMB OUTLETS A LA PERIGUEUX (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Pengueux). Prepare one pound of chopped forcemeat (No. 65), season highly and add four ounces of finely chopped truffles. Pare twelve lamb cutlets, keeping the end bones quite short and only leaving the kernel meat on; beat them down thin, then lay in a sautoir with hot butter, simply to stiffen the meat, remove at once on a baking sheet; cover with a buttered paper and let get partially cold under the pressure of a weight, or in the press (Fig. 71), afterward covering both sides of the me-> with a layer of the above forcemeat; enclose them separately in square pieces of pork "crepinette 1 or kail fat, broil nicely over a slow fire and dress on a very hot dish, pouring a little clear gravi (No. 404) into the bottom of it. Serve with a sauce-boat of Pe"rigueux sauce (No. 517), to whick is mixed some pearl chicken forcemeat quenelles (No. 154). (1684). LAMB OUTLETS A LA POMPADOUR (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Pompadour). Prepare this dish with twelve fine well pared lamb cutlets seasoned with salt and pepper, then fried in butter; set them under a weight, wipe dry and cover both sides with a thoroughly reduced cold soubise (No. 723) ; dip them in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs, then fry again slowly in clari- fied butter and dress on a garnishing composed of flageolet beans, quarter inch balls of carrots and turnips. The whole mingled with Pompadour sauce (No. 525). (1685). LAMB OUTLETS A LA ROBINSON Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Robinson). Season eight fine cutlets with salt and pepper, then fry them in butter. Apart from this cut up some chicken livers into three-eighths of an inch squares, cook them briskly in butter for a few minutes, and dress the chops in a circle, garnish the handles with frills (No. 10) and lay the drained livers in the center; pour over a Madeira half -glaze sauce (No. 413) with fine herbs. (1686). LAMB OUTLETS A LA SIGNORA (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Signora). Pare twelve lamb cutlets leaving on only the kernel and the bone; spilt them in two through their thickness, season and stuff each one with a slice of truffle an eighth of an inch thick; substitute quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) for the fat that has been removed so as to give the chop its original shape. Dip them in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, smooth the surfaces with the blade of a knife, then fry the cutlets in clarified butter (No. 16); drain and place paper frills (No. 10) on the handles. Dress in a circle and pour into the center a well buttered supreme sauce (No. 547) into which chopped truffles have been added. (1687). LAMB OUTLETS A LA TALMA (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Talma). Fry twelve lamb cutlets, keeping them quite rare; lay them under a light weight or in the press (No. 71) and when partly cold, pare and dip them in a rather thick, nearly cold bechamel sauce (No. 409); range them on a sheet of buttered paper and on every cutlet place a slice of foies- gras, cover this over with more bechamel and when partly cold, dredge over with bread-crumbs and trim well the cutlets, removing the excess of sauce, strew with a little parmesan cheese, pour on a little butter and brown to a fine golden color in the oven, trim the handles with a frill (No. 10) and dress in a circle filling the center with minced fresh mushrooms mingled with supreme sauce (No. 547) and lay around thin round slices of truffle pouring a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) over these, and serve. (1688). LAMB OUTLETS A LA TURENNE (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Turenne), Pare a dozen nice cutlets taken from the covered ribs of the racks and suppress the spinal bone and fibrous skin from the ribs; make a gash across the middle of the kernel and fill it up with a cooked fine herb preparation (No. 385), mingled with a little half-glaze (No. 400) and thickened with egg-yolks. Bread-crumb and fry them in butter, trim the handles with a frill (No. 10), dress the cutlets crown-shaped and cover with a buttered half-glaze sauce (No. 413) into which has been added some mushrooms and stuffed olives (No. 695). 552 THE EPICUREAN. (1689). LAMB OUTLETS A LA VICTOR HUGO (Ootelettes d'Agneau a la Victor Hugo). Season the cutlets with salt and pepper, coat them over with oil and broil nicely till done; cover each one with well-buttered and consistent bearnaise sauce (No. 433), into which has been added some grated fresh and very white horseradish, lay on every cutlet a round slice of truffle warmed in a little meal glaze (No. 402) and Madeira wine, dress the cutlets in a circle, pour a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) around the cutlets; trim the handles with a frill (No. 10) and serve. (1690). LAMB OUTLETS BEEADED, SAUTED AND BEOILED (Ootelettes d'Agneau Pannes Saute"es ou Grille'es). Saut6d. Pare ten lamb cutlets into good shape, flatten, season and dip them in beaten eggs to roll after in bread-crumbs; smooth the surfaces with the blade of a knife and then put them in a sautoir with hot purified butter (No. 16), cook on both sides turning them over only once, drain and trim with fancy frills (No. 10), dress on a very hot dish and serve. Broiled. Bread-crumb the cutlets the same as when sauteing them; eight minutes before serv- ing, roll them in melted butter, broil over a slow fire turning them on both sides; take them off when done and lay them on a plate, trim with fancy frills, then dress them in a circle on a very hot dish pouring a little clear gravy (No. 404) into the bottom. (1691). LAMB OUTLETS IN CEEPINETTE (Ootelettes d'Agneau eii Cr^pinette). Prepare twelve rather thick but well-trimmed lamb cutlets, leaving the kernel only, and sup- pressing all the fat and sinews; chop the meats without cutting through, then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Make a forcemeat with half a pound of chopped fat pork, half a pound of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and two ounces of fresh bread-crumbs; mix thoroughly and lay it on both sides of the cutlets; wrap each one separately in a square piece of " crepinette" or caul fat well fattened; butter them over with a brush dipped in butter, and broil for twenty-five minutes on a slow fire, turning them round when cone on one side; then lay them on a small baking tin; trim the handles with frills (No. 10); dress in a circle on a dish, adding some reduced clear gravy (No. 404.) (1692). LAMB OUTLETS IN PAPEES (Ootelettes d'Agneau en Papillotes). Lamb cutlets from their peculiar tenderness and delicacy are well adapted to be prepared in papers. Trim eight spring lamb cutlets pared most carefully and keeping them as wide as possible, season and fry in a sautoir with some melted fat pork, turning them over while cooking; let them remain quite rare; remove the cutlets leaving the pork in the pan and to it add finely chopped onions, FIG. 347. shallots, mushrooms, and truffles; after these have rendered their moisture take them out and mix in with some chopped parsley, and lean, cooked, and finely shredded ham combined with two spoonfuls of baking forcemeat (No. 81). Divide this preparation into as many parts as there are cutlets and cover each one with a layer of it, c~it some sheets of strong paper into heart-shapes, oil over on one-half the right side, pour a little sauce, with a cutlet on top, then a little more of the sauce and fold over the paper; plait the two edges together in such a way as to enclose the meat completely, then lay them on a buttered dish that can stand the heat of the oven, and on which they are to be served; set it in the oven, and when they have acquired a fine color serve; or they may be broiled over a very slow fire in their papers and then dressed on a very hot dish. (1693). LAMB OUTLETS WITH STRING BEANS (Ootelettes d'Agneau aux Haricots Verts). Pare the breast bones four inches long, cut off the neck to the third rib, saw off the spinal bone without spoiling the fillets as far as the rib, then cut from each rack five, six, or seven chops according to the thickness of the meat and the purpose they are intended for. Remove the meat from the end bones of each chop an inch deep, and flatten the meat lightly; suppress the fibrous LAMB. 553 skin adhering to the kernel, also the one attached to the bone; season with salt, and dip in melted butter; roll them in fresh bread-crumbs, then broil over a brisk fire, turning them only once dur- ing the operation. Trim the handles with frills (No. 10), dress and garnish with sauted string beans (No. 2829), pour around some clear gravy (No. 404) having had a blanched and chopped shallot boiled in with it and serve. (1694). EPIGRAMMES OF LAMB i LA TOULOUSE (Epigrammes d'Agneau a la Toulouse). Saw off the breasts from two racks of lamb, remove the bone covering the gristle and put thf> breasts in a saucepan lined with fat pork, carrots, onions and a garnished bouquet (No. 123); cook them just long enough to be able to remove the bones easily, and when this is done drain and range on a baking sheet and set a weight on top. From each rack make five covered cutlets, pare them, nicely, season and fry to a fine color, dress and detach the stock from the pan with a little clear gravy (No. 404), with a little half -glaze sauce (No. 413). Pare the breasts into half hearts and when very cold round the angles and insert a bone into each pointed end of the meat; return these to the sautoir, and pour over the stock reduced to a half-glaze. Range the cutlets and breasts alter- nately or else in straight rows, one of cutlets and one of breasts, or if in a round have one half breasts and the other half cutlets; garnish the center with a Toulouse garnishing (No. 766) either laid in the center or else in a croustade, or should the epigrammes be dressed in a straight row, then place it around. Serve separately the stock strained through a sieve. A cutlet may be set on top a piece of breast which will serve as a crouton, and dress them crown-shaped with the garnishing in the center. C1695). EPIGRAMMES OF LAMB, ANCIENT STYLE (Epigrammes d'Agneau a 1'Ancienne), Braise two breasts of lamb (No. 1694); drain and take out the bones reserving them to use later for imitating handles; let the meat get cold under a weight to reduce to half an inch, then pare nicely by suppressing the skin and cutting them up into half heart-shapes, season with salt and pepper and cover over entirely with Duxelle sauce (No. 461). When cold bread-crumb them in eggs. Scrape the reserve bones, sharpen one end and insert one in each half heart. For eight pieces of breast have eight covered cutlets, pare them nicely, season and broil or fry, then glaze them over with a brush. Brown the breasts in a sautoir with very hot clarified butter, when done drain and decorate the handles with frills (No. 10), also those of the cutlets and dress them in a circle, intercalating the breasts with the cutlets. Eeduce some white wine veloute (No. 415) with mushroom broth and add to it a garnishing of quenelles and mushrooms; range this garnishing in the middle of the circle and decorate around with small glazed lamb's sweebreads. (1696). LAMB FRIES, CREAM HORSERADISH OR TOMATO SAUCE (Animelles d'Agneau a la Sauce Raifort a la Oreme ou a la Sauce Tomate), Skin and then cut them up either in two or four, according to their size; lay them in a vessel to season with salt, pepper, oil and lemon-juice, and leave to marinate for one hour; roll them in flour, immerse in beaten eggs and roll again in bread-crumbs, then fry them to a fine golden color and drain. Dress them on a napkin in a pyramid; garnish the top with a bunch of fried parsley, and around with quartered lemon. Serve separately either a cream horseradish sauce (No. 478) or a tomato sauce (No. 549). (1697), LAMB HASLETS MARINATED (Fraissure d'Agneau a la Marinade), Blanch the lights, drain and cut them up into inch and a half squares; melt some chopped fat pork in a saucepan and when very hot lay in the lights and fry them for a few minutes over a very brisk fire; add the heart cut into eight pieces and the liver in inch and a quarter pieces; season with salt, pepper, mignonette and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, sprinkle over with flour, then moisten with stock (No. 194a) and half white wine; let the whole cook till done to three-quarters, then lay in sixty small fried onions and a pound of small mushrooms; as soon as these are cooked, suppress the parsley, season nicely and notice whether the sauce is not too thin; when right, dress, pour the liquid over and garnish around with croutons fried in butter. 554 THE EPIC URBAN. Another Way. This dish may also be made by placing the haslets cut up in an earthen crock with minced carrots, onions, thyme, bay leaves, sprigs of parsley, salt pepper, mace, vinegar and oil and allowing it to marinate for twelve hours, being careful to turn the meat several times so that it all reaches the marinade; drain and fry in butter, besprinkle over with flour, moisten with white or red wine and stock (No. 194a) season and boil slowly till thoroughly cooked, then serve. (1698), LAMB HEAD, GENOISE OR VINAIGRETTE SAUCE (Tete d'Agneau Sauce Genoise on Vinaigrette), Bone the head as far as the eye, remove both the lower and upper jaw and the eyes, leaving on the crown only with the brain; steep and blanch the head for fifteen minutes, then refresh, wipe, singe and tie it up. Dilute some flour in cold water, adding to it some salt, pepper, onions, carrots! a garnished bouquet and vinegar; boil the head in this for two hours, then drain and untie it and dress on a napkin with parsley ranged around. Serve separately a well-buttered and acidulated genoise sauce (No. 470) or else a vinaigrette sauce (No. 634). (1699), LAMB KIDNEYS A LA LULLT (Rognons d'Agneau a la Lully). Cut eight skinned kidneys lengthwise; fry them in butter over a hot fire, season and add some finely chopped blanched shallots fried in butter, some minced mushrooms, chopped pars- ley and lemon juice. Just when prepared to serve, stir in a piece of fresh butter, dress the kidneys and pour the sauce over, garnishing around with small one inch in diameter potato croquettes (No. 3782) and then serve. (1700). BROOHETTES OP LAMB KIDNEYS (Brochettes de Rognons d'Agneau). Peel off the thin skin covering the kidneys, cut them across into three-sixteenth of an inch slices, season with salt and pepper, and baste with sweet oil. Thread these on skewers alter- nating each piece with a bit of bacon one inch square and an eighth of an inch thick; dip the whole into oil and roll in fresh bread-crumbs, broil them over a slow fire, dress and sprinkle with maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581). (1701), LAMB KIDNEYS, FLEMISH STYLE (Rognons d'Agneau a la Eamande). Fry colorless in butter one tablespoonful of chopped onions, one small chopped shallot, one whole clove of garlic, half a pound of fresh cut up mushrooms, salt, pepper, and cayenne; moisten with a gill of Madeira wine adding a little melted meat glaze (No. 402), some cream and a small piece of kneaded butter (No. 579) ; when ready remove the garlic. Skin eight lambs 1 kidneys, split each one lengthwise in two and fry them in butter; season as soon as they evaporate their moisture and are cooked; dress and pour the above sauce over. (1702). LAMB KIDNEYS, GLAZED (Rognons d'Agneau Q lace's). Peel the skin from twelve kidneys, split each one into two parts; pat a piece of butter in a pan with a tablespoonful of chopped shallot, fry without browning then add the kidneys; season with salt and pepper and as soon as they are well sized besprinkle with a few tablespoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402); roll them in this off the fire and bestrew with chopped parsley, finishing with the juice of a lemon; dress on a very hot dish and surround with fried croutons glazed over with a brush. (1703). LAMB KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS (Rognons d'Agneau en Brochettes). Split open the kidneys on the round side three-quarters through without separating the parts; run skewers through, having two kidneys to each metal skewer (Fig. 341) ; season with salt and pepper and cover over with oil, broil them first on the open side and when sufficiently done, turn them over on the other; dress them the open side uppermost, and lay on every kidney a little maitre d'hotel butter (No. 582). Squeeze a little lemon juice over and serve very hot. (1704). STEWED LAMB KIDNEYS WITH MADEIRA AND WITH MUSHROOMS (Rognons d'Agneau Sautes an Madere et aux Champignons). To obtain fine stewed kidneys it must be perfectly well understood that they should be sauted over a quick fire in order to seize them rapidly and ought never to be allowed to boil or cook in their auce. Suppress the skin from eight fresh lambs 1 kidneys; mince them up, removing all the ha*d LAMB. 555 parts. Heat some butter in a pan and when hot, put in the kidneys and fry them over a brisk fire; season with salt and pepper, and when the meats are sized without being dry, take them out with a skimmer, leaving the liquid in the pan. Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onions in butter in a sautoir, pour into it the reduced kidney gravy, and let the whole cook with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and half a gill of Madeira wine, strain and skim the fat from the sauce, and pour it over the kidneys, heat them without boiling, and finish the stew with lemon juice and chopped parsley. With Mushrooms. Instead of using Madeira, reduce the sauce with mushroom essence (No. 392), and add some sliced mushrooms. (1705). LEG OP LAMB A LA BEECY (Gigot d'Agneau a la Bercy). Remove the thick loin and bone from a leg of yearling lamb and saw off the knuckle, remove about five inches of the meat to form a handle. Line a saucepan with fragments of fat pork, raw suet, roots, minced onions, and aromatics; lay in the meat, salt it over, and place on the fire for a few moments, turning it round; moisten to its height with light broth (No. 194a), and let boil; continue the boiling process while skimming well the surface, then close the saucepan and remove it back to a slower fire in order that it continue to cook but much more moderately; it will take from three to four hours, and the liquid should then be reduced to two-thirds; drain the leg, lay it in a small, deep, narrow baking pan, also its strained and skimmed stock reduced to a half -glaze (No. 400) with Madeira and gravy (No. 404); put it in the oven to become a fine color while basting frequently with its own stock, then strain this off, remove all its fat and reduce; pour a third of it over the dressed leg, garnish it with a frill (No. 10), and serve separately a borde- laise sauce (No. 436), stirred into the remainder of the stock. (1706). LEG OF LAMB A LA BEITAOIA, OE GEEEN SAUCE OE OAPEE SAUCE (Gigot d'Agneau a la Britannia ou Sauce Verte ou Sauce aux Oapres). Pare nicely a leg of yearling lamb, cut off the knuckle bone at the handle, remove about two inches of the meat from this to make a handle, scraping the bone clean, weigh the meat and plunge it into boiling water; let it boil for fifteen minutes for each pound and add to it salt, pepper a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, clove of garlic, two cut carrots and four onions. After the leg is done, dress on a long dish, and trim it with a paper frill (No. 10), glaze the meat. Serve separately a well buttered espagnole sauce (No. 414). into which add lemon juice, mig^ nonette and chopped parsley; garnish around with cauliflower boiled in salted water. With Green Sauce. Prepare it exactly the same as for the above, and when the leg is dressed serve without garnishing and with a green sauce (No. 473) served separately. With Caper Sauce. Prepare, cook and dress it as for the above; serve separately a caper sauce (No. 441). (1707X LEG OF LAMB A LA FEAEING, ZEENEL (Noix de Gigot d'Agneau k la Fearing). Lift the kernel from a leg of yearling lamb, pare it exactly the same as a kernel of veal and then fry it in clarified butter, drain this off and moisten with Madeira wine and some veal blond stock (No. 423), putting in very little at the time, only adding it as fast as it becomes reduced. Dress, strain the gravy, and reduce it with brown sauce (No. 414) and Madeira. For the garnishing have medium-sized whole truffles, cooked fresh mushrooms, cocks'-combs and kidneys, all being cooked separately. Dress these in separate and distinct clusters, and cover them all with part of the sauce, serving the rest of it in a sauce-bowl. (1708). LEG OF LAMB, A LA GUYANE (Gigot d'Agneau a la Guyane). Bone a leg of yearling lamb reserving the bone for the handle; fill the hollow space with a dress- ing made of fresh pork, bacon, cooked ham, chopped mushrooms and soaked and pressed out bread- crumbs, adding to it eggs and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Sew up the leg and then brown it in some fat pork; wet it with white wine and put in with it some roots, carrots, turnips, celery and onions; season, boil, skim and continue the boiling for three to four hours, then strain the stock, free it of its fat and keep back half of it, reduce the other half with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and a little tomato puree (No. 730) with a dash of cayenne added. Dress the leg, pare the handle nicely and range an Indian risot (No. 737) around; cover with the stock after it has been well reduced and place a paper frill (No. 10) on the handle bone. Pour the prepared sauce in a sauce- bowl and serve it at the same time. 556 TTIE EPICUREAN (1709). LEG OP LAMB, ZING'S PILAU (Gigot d'Agneau Pilav du Eoi). Have one pound of boned leg of lamb; pare off all the fat and sinews and then divide it into three-quarters of an inch pieces; have also a quarter of a pound of three-eighth inch dice of raw ham, fry all these in butter over a bright fire with a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); moisten with half a pint of stock (No. 194a), season and reduce to a glaze, then remoisten once more with another half pint and so on until the pilau is done and very rich; season with a dash of cayenne pepper and salt. Fry colorless a chopped onion in butter, add to it a quarter of a pound of washed and dried rice; when this is quite hot, wet it with twice its volume of the stock from the pilau and stock (No. 194a), cover, bring to a boil and place it in the oven for twenty minutes and as soon as done, add butter and parmesan. Fill a border mold (Fig. 139) with this, unmold on a dish, remove the bunch of parsley from the pilau and pour it into the center of the border, cover over with a layer of the same rice; reserved for the purpose, smooth it neatly with a knife, strew par- mesan cheese on top, besprinkle with butter and brown in a hot oven. (1710). SLICES OF LEG OF LAMB A LA DOEDOGNE (Tranches de Gigot d'Agneau a la Dordogne). These are slices of meat cut from a leg of raw spring lamb, free of all fat and sinews and should be three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; season and cover them all with a chicken or forcemeat into which as much fine cooked herbs (No. 385) have been mixed; roll them up into cylinder shapes, run on small metal skewers (Fig. 176), then dip in melted butter and bread-crumbs; broil them over a slow fire till done, dress and pour over a half -glaze sauce (No. 413) buttered at the last moment with maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581). (1711). SLICES OF LEG OF LAMB A LA PEEVILLOT (Tranches de Gigot d'Agneau a la Pre"villot). Cut some three-sixteenths of an inch thick slices from the kernel of a raw leg of lamb, pare them into rounds, two inches in diameter, season with salt and fry in clarified butter. Fry colorless in butter, one ounce of onions cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, half a pound of mushrooms in quarter inch pieces, some peeled egg-plant cut in three-eighth inch squares and a little piece of garlic; moisten with clear gravy (No. 404) and half-glaze (No. 400) and reduce, then pour it into a dish, bestrew with chopped parsley and lay the slices of lamb over. FIG. 348. (1712). BLANQUETTE OF LEG OF LAMB (Blanquette de Gigot d'Agneau). Take some cold leg of lamb, suppress from it all the fat and sinews, remove the skin and cut the meat into quarter-inch thick slices; pare them rounded and range the pieces in a sautoir, add to it some veloute sauce (No. 415) finished with a little mushroom liquor enough to cover the meat stir in salt, mignonette and leave the stew on the fire for a few moments before serving, but it must not be allowed to boil. Dress the blanquette either in a circle or a straight row, and thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks diluted in a little milk, fresh butter, vinegar or lemon juice; strain the sauce through a tammy and add to it some minced mushrooms, heat without boiling, pour it over the meat and garnish around with bread croutons fried in butter. (1713). LAMB OE MUTTON STEAK PLAIN, MAITEE D'HOTEL (Steak d'Agneau ou de Mouton Nature, Maitre d'Hotel). The steak is a slice either of lamb or mutton cut through the entire thickness of the leg; for this a two-pronged steel fork is used (Fig. 349) thrust into a hole bored for FlG 849< the purpose in the butcher's table, having it the same diameter as the handle of the fork; the leg is placed on the fork in such a way that the shank bone passes between the two prongs, then cut off slices from five to six-eighths of FIG. 350. an inch thick; saw through the bone the same thickness as the meat. The fork is for the purpose of upholding the bone so that it can be sawed through more easily. Season the steak with salt, coat it over with oil and broil, serve on a very hot dish either plain or with a maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581). LAMB. 557 (1714). LEG OF LAMB WITH OAEEOTS (Gigot d'Agneaii aux Garottes). Prepare the leg exactly the same as for gravy (No. 1715), only serve at the same time, but sep- arately a garnishing of carrots made by parboiling about two pounds of new carrots cut into pear shapes and then cook them in a little stock (No. 194a) with salt and sugar added; finish cooking them very slowly tossing at times to have them all done alike, then thicken with four raw egg- yolks diluted with a gill of cream and a little fine butter; add some chopped parsley and serve with a thickened gravy (No. 405) in a separate sauce-boat the same time as the leg. (1715). LEG OF YEARLING LAMB WITH GRAVY ROASTED (Gigot d'Agneau Tardif Roti an jus), Pare and beat a leg of yearling lamb to soften it, then run the spit skewer through to bring it out at the kernel without injuring the meat, allowing it to follow the course of the bone. Tie the bone tightly to the spit, place a long skewer over it and fasten firmly at each end. It will take from an hour to an hour and a quarter to cook. When done, dress and trim the handle with a frill, (No. 10) and serve the dripping pan gravy at the same time as the meat, stirring into it a little clear gravy (No. 404); skim the fat from the top and pass it through a fine sieve. To Roast in the Oven. Lay the leg in a baking pan, besmear it with good fat and cook it for one hour to an hour and a quarter according to its size. It will take a few moments longer to roast it in the oven than on the spit. (1716). LEG OF LAMB WITH PUREE OF ONIONS WITH CREAM (Gigot d'Agneau a la Purge d'Oignons a la Oreme). Cut off the end of the shank bone of a leg of lamb; pare the leg to shape and remove the superfluous fat; roast it on the spit or else in a baking pan in a moderate oven, pouring over some melted fat, and basting it frequently; salt it over fifteen minutes before serving. Dress and trim the handle bone with a paper frill (No. 10), and serve separately a puree of onions with cream pre- pared as follows: Mince two pounds of white onions, plunge them into boiling, salted water and let cook for five minutes, then drain very dry, and place them in a saucepan with four ounces of butter; cook the onions colorless, season and stir in two tablespoon fuls of flour; wet with cream in such a manner as to keep the mixture consistent, then set it into a slack oven, and when, the onions have finished cooking, rub them through a sieve. Pour the puree back into the saucepan, mix well, heat and serve. (1717). LOIN OF YEARLING LAMB, GERMAN STYLB (Longe d'Agneau Tardif a 1'Allemande) Take a loin of yearling lamb, or the part beginning from the top of the leg and extending as far as the first rib on the rack; remove the aitchbone without injuring the minion fillet, pare carefully the fat from the interior, and remove the tough skin from the sirloin, season with pepper, salt and nutmeg. Roll this loin up, tie it firmly and then braise it in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) with a little brandy added. It will take two hours and a half to three hours to cook; drain, untie and set it under a light weight or under the press (No. 71) and when cold cut the meat into half heart-shaped slices and dress them in a circle on a baking dish, cover over with an allemande sauce (No. 407), besprinkle with bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan cheese, pour butter over and set the dish in a moderate oven. When it has attained a fine color, withdraw from the oven and drain off the butter, garnish the center with minced truffles and mushrooms mixed with some lighter allemande sauce (No. 407). (1718). LOIN OF LAMB WITH SAUTED TOMATOES (Longe d'Agneau aux Tomates Saute"es). Proceed exactly as for German style (No. 1717), and when cold and the slices are pared heart- shaped, cover each piece with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a nice color; dress in a circle and fill the inside empty space with split and peeled tomatoes that have been pressed and fried in butter with shallots and seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Serve a tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze (No. 400) separately. (1719). MINCED LAMB A LA RIVERA (Emmce" d'Agneau a la Rivera). Minces are generally made with cooked meats; cut quarter inch thick slices from the kernel part of a cold roast leg of lamb, pare them into rounds two and a half inches in diameter, range them in a sautoir pouring over a few spoonfuls of half -glaze sauce (No. 413), clear gravy (No. 404), 558 THE EPICUREAN. and port wine, heating it all without boiling. Cut some sour apples into quarters, peel and remove the cores and seeds; lay them in a sautoir, besprinkle with sugar and cook them in a slack oven till done. Dress the minced meat in a circle with the apples in the center, and pour the port wine sauce over. (1720). MINION FILLETS OP LAMB A LA BENOIST (Filets Mignons d'Agneau a la Benoist), Pare the minion fillets, suppressing all fat and sinews; cut the meats transversely into small slices, flatten, pare them into rounds, and when ready season with salt; saute them in half butter and half oil, drain on a plate, and glaze over with a brush. Lay each piece of meat on a thin crust of bread cut the same size as the noisettes, and on top of every one place a slice of cooked foies-gras cut also the same dimension; cover the whole quickly with a pretty thick white wine sauce (No. 492), in which grated parmesan has been added; bestrew with grated parmesan, and glaze the surface under a gas salamander (Fig. 123) or a very hot oven. Dress on a hot dish and set a fine slice of truffle on each; serve immediately. (1721). MINION FILLETS OF LAMB A LA LANDGEAVE (Filets Mignons d'Agneau a la Landgrave). Remove all the sinews from one or more minion fillets; season with salt, sweet oil, and lemon juice, then fry them in butter, and dress on slices of bread cut one and a quarter inches across by five inches long. Pour over a veloute sauce (No. 415) or allemande sauce (No. 407), having it well buttered and seasoned with Worcestershire sauce, and either mignonette or cayenne pepper. (1722). MINION FILLETS OF LAMB A LA LEFOET (Filets Mignons d'Agneau & la Lefort). Prepare the meats as for the Benoist (No. 1720), lay them on a dish, pour over a cold cooked marinade (No. 114) and let macerate for one hour, then drain and wipe. Roll them in oil to broil over a brisk fire turning them, and when done lay on a hot dish over slices of bread trimmed to the same shape and size as the noisettes and three-sixteenth of an inch in thickness, fried in clarified butter and glazed over. Set into a sauce-pan half a pint of tomato sauce (No. 549) and half a pint of gravy (No. 404), some branches of parsley, thyme, bay leaf and garlic; reduce this to a third, then strain and return it to the saucepan; at the very first boil take it from the fire and stir in two ounces of minced cepes; pour this over the minion fillets. (1723). MINION FILLETS OF LAMB AS VENISON (Filets Mignons d'Agneau en Ohevreuil). Pare six or eight yearling lamb fillets or else those of a young sheep, by suppressing all the fat and skin; cut them up through their length and on the bias, then beat the pieces and trim them into half hearts; lard with fine lardons (No. 1, Fig 52), and lay them in a deep china dish to cover with cooked and cold marinade (No. 114); macerate in this for a few hours, then drain and range them on the bottom of a sautoir into which put half butter and half oil; saute them briskly and when done drain; glaze the surfaces and keep them for a few moments at the oven door. Dress on half heart-shaped bread croutons fried in butter and arranged in a circle on a dish; pour over a poivrade sauce (No. 522). (1724). MINION FILLETS OF LAMB OEEAM SAUCE (Filets Mignons d'Agneau Sauce k la Creme). Raise the minion fillets from three or four saddles of lamb, free them of their fat and sinews, pare and lard with small lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), lay them in a vessel to season with salt, pepper, thyme, bay leaf, minced onions and nutmeg, let marinate for twelve hours turning them about occasionally, then drain and wipe dry. Fry these meats in some good hot fat, and when done drain it all off and detach the glaze with some fresh cream thickening with a little well buttered bechamel (No. 409). Dress in a circle and pour the sauce over. (1725). MINION FILLETS OF LAMB IN SUEPEISE (Filets Mignons d'Agneau en Surprise). Pare and suppress all the fat from some lamb minion fillets, trim them into half hearts and make an incision on one side and flat across the tnickness and almost through the entire width, but without separating the parts. Fry in butter a chopped shallot and four ounces of finely chopped truffles; moisten with four tablespoonfuls of Madeira wine, reduce this to a mere nothing, LAMB. 559 then stir in two spoonfuls of chopped parsley, a tablespoonful of meat glaze (No. 402) and a thick- ening of two raw egg-yolks; till the incisions with this mixture, egg and bread crumb the meat* and fry them in clarified butter. Pour a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), with Madeira over after dress- ing them in a circle. (1726). MINION FILLETS OP LAMB PRINTANIERE (Pilets Mignons d'Agneau Printaniere), Kemove the fillets from a saddle of lamb, free them from sinews and fat. Make sufficient lamb quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) to fill a border mold indented slightly on the top (Fig. 139), buttered and decorated with truffles; then fill with the forcemeat and lay it in a saucepan with boiling water to reach to half its heighth, place in a slack oven till firm to the touch. Cut up the meat into bias slices, each one weighing about four ounces when pared; salt and fry them in butter over a brisk fire, when done, take them out, wipe and roll in a sautoir with a very little hot meat glaze (No. 402), then dress them at once crown-shaped on the border of poached forcemeat, fill in the center with a garnishing of spring vegetables and pour a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) to which is added some tomato sauce (No. 549) on the dish and serve some separately. (1727). MINION FILLETS OF LAMB WITH SHALLOT SAUCE AND MARROW, ROASTED AND LARDED (Filets Mignons Pique's et Rotis k la Sauce Echalote et Moelle). Lift some minion fillets and suppress from them all the fat and sinews, then lard them with very fine lard on s (No. 3, Fig. 52), lay them in a baking pan, salt over and baste with drippings, then roast them in a very hot oven. Eight or ten minutes should suffice to have them done properly, dress on oblong slices of toast and cover with some clear gravy (No, 404) and serve separately a shallot sauce with marrow. Shallot Sauce with Marrow. Place in a saucepan one ounce of butter with two shallots, cut in one-eighth of an inch squares as much meat glaze (No. 402) as butter, salt, pepper, lemon juice and chopped parsley, place on the fire for two minutes, then add some marrow, cut in quarter inch squares and previously blanched by dipping in boiling water. (1728). MINION FILLETS OF LAMB WITH TRUFFLES-SAUTED (Filets Mignons d'Agneau SautSs aux Truffes). Suppress the fat and trim neatly two lamb fillets half heart-shape, cut incisions on one side to a third of their depth and season with salt, nutmeg and pepper, stuff with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and close the opening with a little lamb quenelle forcemeat (No. 92); fry them quickly in butter and when they are stiffened drain off the fat and replace it by a tablespoonful of melted meat glaze (No. 402); roll the fillets in this, dress them on a dish and put a little espagnole sauce (No. 414) in with the glaze remaining in the pan, let this cook and reduce, then add a piece of butter and some lemon juice to the sauce. Pour over the fillets range around slices of truffles that have been moistened with Madeira sauce (No. 492). (1729). NECK OF LAMB WITH CABBAGE (Collet d'Agneau aux Choux). Cut the neck a little long on the rib side; leave four rib bones on it; bone it all thoroughly, remove the sinewy and fat parts, then season with salt and pepper, stuff with lamb forcemeat made of cold finely chopped lamb, an equal quantity of soaked and pressed out bread-crumbs, fried, chop- ped onions, minced cooked mushrooms, chopped parsley, chopped up cooked ham and raw eggs. Fill the neck with this, sew up the meat so as to enclose well the stuffing and braise it in a very little stock (No.l94a) for three hours; remove the threads, glaze, dress and surround with cabbage. Strain the stock, add to it a little brown sauce (No. 414), bring it to a boil, skim off the fat care- fully and when reduced serve in a sauce-boat. (1730). NOISETTES OF SHOULDER OF LAMB, EPICUREAN (Noisettes d'E'paule d'Agneau Epicurienne). These noisettes or glands are found in the fatty part of the shoulder near the shoulder blade; remove all the skin which envelops them. Fill the bottom of a flat saucepan with thin slices of fat pork, lay the noisettes on top, and moisten with a mirepoix stock (No. 419); cover over with more slices of the pork, and let cook in a slow oven from three-quarters to one hour 560 THE EPICUREAN. according to their size. "When the noisettes are done, strain the stock through a fine tammy and skim well the fat. Decorate a low border mold (Fig. 139) with fanciful cuts of truffles, fill it with chicken and cream forcemeat (No. 75), and poach in a bain-marie, the same as a timbale; then unmold it on a dish and garnish the interior of the border with mushrooms stewed and moistened with reduced cream and a little bechamel (No. 409). Range on top the noisettes from which the fat has been removed and then glazed in their own stock after it has been thoroughly reduced. 1731), POEE QUAETEE OP LAMB WITH STUFFED TOMATOES-ON THE SPIT (Quartier de Devant d'Agneau k la Broche aux Tomates Farcies). Detach the shoulder from the rack on the covered rib side and leave the neck side without removing it; bone the shoulder, leaving only the end bone, and pass a skewer through the shoulder and the breast; adjust or lay it on the spit, fastening the two ends with a strong string; run a skewer through the meat near the shoulder, having it run through the hole in the spit to pre- vent the meat from slipping while cooking. Cook in front of a brisk fire basting frequently; it will take from thirty to forty-five minutes; when nearly done, salt it over. Dress the meat on a very hot dish and serve clear gravy (No. 404) separately; garnish the end bone with a frill (No. 10), and set around baked stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842). (1732), HIND QUAETEE OP LAMB WITH MINT SAUCE OE COLBEET SAUCE (Quartier de Derriere d'Agneau k la Sauce Menthe ou k la Sauce Colbert), Pare very carefully a good hind quarter of lamb; suppress and pare the end bone or handle bone after sawing it two inches below the joint of the leg; cut away the meat two inches down, then scrape the bone clean; now lay the quarter in a baking-pan (Fig. 136), salt it evenly, and baste with dripping fat; set it in a moderate oven and let cook for three-quartars to one hour. Dress on a long hot dish, trim the handle with a frill (No. 10), pour a little of its gravy over, and serve with a separate mint sauce (No. 616) or Colbert sauce (No. 451). (1733). EACK OF LAMB, CASTILLANE SAUOE-BEOILED (Carre* d'Agneau Grille" a la Sauce Castillane). Have a good, tender rack of lamb; remove the chine bone, cut the ribs very short, and pare the fillets to the bone without taking any meat from the ribs; separate all these ribs by giving sharp blows with the dull edge of a knife on the chine bone, to break the bones, but without cutting through the meats; pass a skewer between the middle of the rack, and the rib bones in such a way as to uphold the rack in its original shape; dip it into melted butter, season with salt and pepper, and roll it in white bread-crumbs, then broil over a slow fire for twenty-five to thirty minutes. Dress, withdraw the skewer, and serve with a separate Castillane sauce (No. 443), or any other suitable one, such as bordelaise (No. 436), or Pe"rigueux (No. 517). (1734) EAOK OF LAMB WITH AETIOHOKES-SAUTED (Oarr6 d'Agneau Saute" aux Artichauts). Cut short the breasts of two racks of lamb; take out the chine bones and put the meats into a sauteing-pan with melted fat pork and a bunch of parsley containing aromatics and a clove of gar- lic, season and fry over a brisk fire. Aside from this cut eight small, slightly pared, tender and raw artichoke bottoms in two; lay them in another saute pan with some oil, then season and fry them over a moderate fire. As soon as the lamb is nicely done, drain off the fat, pour over half a bottleful of white wine and let reduce to a glaze; baste the meats with a little half-glaze sauce, (No. 413) and take them from the fire to lay on a hot dish; suppress the garnished parsley and surround the meats with the artichokes. (1735). EAOK OF LAMB WITH PUEEE OF SPLIT PEAS-LAEDED AND EOASTED (Carre". . d'Agneau PiquS et Eoti a la Pure"e de Pois Sees). Select a good tender rack of lamb; suppress the chine bone, cut the rib bones short and straight and pare the fillet meats without taking any from the ribs; lard the meat lengthwise with medium sized lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), then wrap the rack in a sheet of oiled paper and attach it on the spit fastening it with a skewer; let it roast for twenty or thirty-five minutes while basting frequently; a few moments before serving unwrap to brown it nicely, then salt it over, withdraw the skewers and serve with a little clear gravy (No. 404) poured over, and some more in a sauce- boat to be served at the same time. The above dish is to be served with a garnishing of puree of split peas (No. 724) in a vegetable dish. LAMB. 561 (1736). DOUBLE OE SADDLE 01 LAMB WITH THE LEGS AND POTATO OEOQUETTES (Double ou Selle d'Agneau avec les Gigots aux Croquettes de Pommes). Cut half a lamb crosswise that is the entire saddle with the two legs, leaving one of the ribs attached to the saddle, saw off the knuckle of the leg bones, make a handle two inches long by removing the meat and scraping the bone well ; roll the flanks under, tie the loin with three rounds of string having a knot at each round, then wrap the meat in a very heavy buttered paper and let roast either on the spit or in the oven. Unwrap it fifteen minutes before serving so as to brown it nicely, then dress and glaze, garnish around the dish with potato croquettes (No. 2782) and decorate both legs with paper frills (No. 10); serve separately a rather light half -glaze sauce (No. 413). (1737). FOEE SADDLE OP LAMB WITH CHESTNUTS (Selle d'Agneau de Devant aux Marrons). Select a fore saddle of lamb with the two racks, lift off the shoulders and cut the rack bones in such a way that the saddle is not more than four inches high through its entire length; suppress the skin covering the fat and then roast it in a pan in the oven; this will take about twenty minutes. When done dress on a long dish, glaze and garnish around the meat with peeled chest- nuts braised with branches of celery, and pour over some gravy (No. 404) or else serve it separately. (1738). HIND SADDLE OF LAMB, A LA BEIGHTON (Selle d'Agneau a la Brighton). Prepare and trim a saddle of lamb as explained for the braised saddle (No. 1745); cover it over with " crepruette, " (caul fat) or thin slices of fat pork. Boil twelve to fifteen quarts of soup stock in a saucepan, season it with salt, pepper, mignonette, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, two quartered carrots and two onions, one of them having two cloves in it, then boil and skim. About one hour and a quarter before serving put in the saddle and let boil unceasingly for an hour to an hour and a half according to its size; when done drain it off, untie, glaze and dress; garnish around with Villeroi cauliflower (No. 2716), and serve a Viennese sauce (No. 553) separately. (1739). HIND SADDLE OF LAMB A LA CHANCELIEEE (Selle d'Agneau a la Ohanceliere). Prepare the saddle the same as for the turnips (No. 1745), and when nearly cooked drain, and pare nicely and evenly; place in a baking pan, cover the top with a coating of beaten eggs, and dredge fine bread-crumbs over, pour on some melted butter and brown in a hot oven. Strain the broth, reduce it to a half-glaze and add to this a little tomato sauce (No. 549) and bechamel (No. 409); serve this with the saddle. Line some tartlet molds with fragments of very thin puff paste (No. 146), fill them with well-cooked fat rice stirred in with some bechamel (No. 409) and seasoned with salt and nutmeg and the well-beaten egg-whites; fifteen minutes before serving the meat set these in the oven and when they are cooked range them around the saddle and serve. (1740). HIND SADDLE OF LAMB A LA FLOEENTINE (Selle d'Agneau a la Florentine). Roast a saddle of yearling lamb in the oven having it laid in a baking pan; salt and baste with dripping. It will take from an hour to an hour and a half to have it properly roasted if the oven be very hot. When done, dress and glaze the meat, surround it with a garnishing of artichoke bottoms a la Florence (No. 2677), and serve with a separate white Colbert sauce (No. 451). (1741). HIND SADDLE OF LAMB A LA PAGANINI (Selle d'Agneau a la Paganini). Have the saddle prepared and cooked the same as for Florentine (No. 1740); dress the meat and garnish around with slices of foies-gras intercalated with slices of truffles; cover these with a supreme sauce (No. 547) and lay on top partridge quenelles decorated with truffles. The saddle may be garnished with skewers thrust into it composed of double cocks'-combs and glazed truffles. Serve a sauce-bowl of supreme sauce at the same time as the saddle. (1742). HIND SADDLE OP LAMB A LA SANFOED (Selle d'Agneau a la Sanford). Prepare and cook the meat the same as for Florentine (No. 1740), but instead of artichoke bottoms have a garnishing of croustades made of puff paste parings (No. 146) and filled with a Sanford apple sauce (No. 588) pushed in through a pocket, lay on top of each a paste cover made by having three thin flats of paste of different dimensions the smallest one on top, serve separately some rich gravy (No. 404). 6C TIIK EPICUREAN. (1743). HIND SADDLE OF LAMB, AMEEIOAN STYLE (Belle d'Agneau a 1'Americaine). Cut off the hind saddle between the first and second ribs, remove both legs, cutting them away % a round from off the loin and toward the flanks; suppress also a thin peel covering the skin and aome of the loin and kidney fat; roll the flanks over on themselves, keep them in position with four turns of twine, then run the spit between the twine and saddle; hold the latter in position with several skewers which should run through both the saddle and spit (Fig. 344), then have a suffi- ciently strong skewer to run into the loin marrow bone fastening it securely on the spit with a string, place over the saddle a long skewer held to the spit with two rings one at each end of the saddle or instead of rings strong twine may be used; cover the meat with heavy buttered paper and maintain it in position with four rows of string. The cradle spit (Fig. 116) is better adapted for roasting this cut of meat; all that is necessary is to place the saddle in the middle. One hour before serving, put the saddle in the .spit and ten minutes before needed, unwrap, glaze, and dress on a dish; serve with a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413). (1744), HIND SADDLE OP LAMB, FEENOH STYLE (Selle d'Agneau a la Frangaise), Pare a saddle suppressing the skin and superfluous fat, roll the flaps or flanks under; truss and braise it in a braziere (Fig. 134) with bits of fat pork, minced carrots and onions; season and let the meat smother while turning it over; cover with a pint of stock (No. 194a) and reduce it slowly to a glaze, then recover to its exact heighth with hot broth, and let cook with the lid on over a slow fire or in a moderate oven, basting and turning frequently; should it be insufficiently moistened, add more hot broth. When the saddle is almost done, drain and trim it; strain the stock, skim off the fat carefully, and return the meat to the braziere to finish cooking, and glaze in a moderate oven. Dressing. Drain the saddle, detach both fillets from the top, and cut them into even slices, then return them to their original position; lay the saddle on a dish that can be placed in the oven. Have three quartsof bechamel sauce (No. 409), reduced with cream and mushroom broth; when sufficiently reduced take it from the fire and stir into it a quarter of a pound of grated parmesan, three ounces of butter, and a little cayenne pepper; beat it thoroughly until partially cold, then cover the saddle with it smoothing the surface neatly; bestrew with grated parmesan, and finish baking in a hot oven. Pour a little of the stock around the meat, serving the remainder separately, and send to the table accompanied by a vegetable dish of glazed cucumbers (No. 2733). (1745). HIND SADDLE OP LAMB WITH MASHED TTJBNIPS-BBAISED (Selle d'Agneau Braised a la Pur6e de Navets). Trim a saddle of yearling lamb, suppress the skin that covers it and the surplus of fat near the tail; take away very little of the kidney fat; roll the flanks under and tie the saddle with four rows of string making a knot at each row; lay it in a low braziere lined with fragments of fat pork, sliced onions and carrots, celery roots and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and let the meat smother while turning it over; moisten with one pint of hot stock (No. 194a); after it has slowly fallen to a glaze cover it to its height with more hot stock and let it fall very slowly to a glaze once more, then remoisten to its full height and cook while covered on a slow fire, turning it over and basting it frequently. Should the stock reduce too freely then add more hot stock. Two hours and a half will suffice for the cooking, then drain and pare the meat, strain the stock, and remove the fat and return it once more to the braziere with the saddle and let this cook for half an hour longer, glazing it in a moderate oven; then dress and surround with mashed tur- nips pushed through a pocket into round tartlet crusts and laid one beside the other; pour one-third of the stock over the meat and thicken the remainder with reduced espagnole sauce (No. 414)and Madeira, serving it in a sauce-boat. (1746). HIND SADDLE OF LAMB WITH GEAVY-EOASTED (Selle d'Agneau Eotie au Jus). Trim a saddle of lamb by removing the legs and skin that covers it, also a little of the fat on the thick loin end and kidneys; roll the flaps over on themselves and tie the saddle firmly with four rows of string making a knot at each row; lay it in a baking pan, sprinkle over with salt, pour some fat on top and set it in a moderate oven; it will take from an hour to an hour and a quarter to roast a saddle without the legs. Serve the meat with some good clear gravy (No. 404). LAMB. 563 (1747) SLICES OP SADDLE OP LAMB WITH PUEEE OF BEANS (Tranches de Selle d'Agneau a la PurSe de Haricots). Cut transversal slices three-quarters of an inch in thickness from a small saddle of lamb; sea- son with salt and fry till done in clarified butter. Dress them in a straight row on a long dish, one piece overlapping the other; surround with a puree of white beans (No. 706) pushed through a pastry bag (Fig. 179). Cover the meats with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) having some chopped fresh mushrooms added to it, and serve some of the same sauce in a sauce-boat. (1748). SHOULDEE OP LAMB A LA BENTON Epaule d'Agneau a la BentonX Bone a shoulder of lamb retaining the end or the handle bone; saw off the knuckle an inch from the handle and season the meat with salt, pepper and nutmeg, roll it into an elongated shape, tie it round with six rows of string making a knot at each row. Fry the shoulder lightly in a saucepan containing butter and melted fat pork and when lightly browned, drain off the butter and moisten to three-quarters of an inch of its height with stock (No. 194a), add a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, as much thyme and a clove of garlic, boil and skim, then cook in a slow oven for about two hours, basting the meat frequently with its own broth. Twenty minutes before serving, put in four ounces of minced onions fried to a light color in butter and finish to cook and glaze the shoulder. Have two pounds of medium sized, peeled, quartered and cored apples, range them on a buttered sauteing pan, pour over a little butter and sprinkle with sugar, then cook them in a slack oven. Prepare and fry two pounds of potatoes cut in cylinders one inch in circum- ference, and cut across three-sixteenths of an inch thick; soak them in cold water for an hour, then drain, wipe and fry in white frying lard until they assume a nice color, then salt over. Drain the shoulder, lay it in the center of a dish and glaze it over; strain and skim the fat from the stock, reduce it to the consistency of a light syrup and pour a little of it in the bottom of the dish; set the apples at both ends and arrange the fried potatoes at the sides; serve the reduced gravy at the same time, but separately. (1749). SHOULDEE OF LAMB, A LA DESSAIX (Epaule d'Agneau a la Dessaix), Bone two shoulders of lamb leaving on only the end or handle bones; remove all the sinews and fat, have some chopped farce (No. 68) put the whole into a mortar to pound, season, and add a handful of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, one whole egg and a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385;; use this forcemeat for stuffing the shoulders, then sew them up so as to enclose the stuffing, and lay them in a narrow saucepan lined with bits of fat pork and minced roots; season, moisten the meats with a little stock (No. 194a), and when they are cooked, and of a fine color, drain them off, untie, and remove from the end bone the meat so as to be able to trim them with paper frills (No. 10). Dress on a dish, pour over some of their own stock, and reduce the remainder with as much espagnole (No. 414), until the consistency of a half-glaze sauce is obtained: garnish around with half heart-shaped croustades made of mashed potatoes, dipped in eggs, thei in bread-crumbs, the surfaces smoothed nicely, and then slit them all round a quarter of an inch from the edge; and fry; when finished, drain, remove the covers, empty and refill the insides with a small vegetable raaoedoine (No. 680) combined with bechamel (No. 409), serving a sauce-boatful of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) at the same time. (1750). SHOULDEE OF LAMB A LA GAENIEE (Epaule d'Agneau a la Gamier). After boning two shoulders of lamb, leaving on only the end or handle bones, stuff the insides with lamb forcemeat (No. 92); braise them the same as for a la Benton (No. 1748); then drain, skim, and reduce the stock with an equal quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414). Dress and glaze the shoulders, then garnish around with whole chestnuts (No. 654); braised celery (No. 2721); cover the garnishing with a part of the sauce and serve what remains separately. (1751). SHOULDEE OF LAMB WITH OUOUMBEES (Epaule d'Agneau aux Concombres). Prepare and braise two shoulders of spring lamb as explained for a la Benton (No. 1748), when done, untie and glaze; dress them either on a garnishing of cucumbers with Danish sauce (No. 457), or else on a macedoine garnishing (No. 680), or a jardiniere (No. 677). Strain the stock, remove all its fat, and reduce it to the consistency of a light syrup, serving it in a sauce-boat the same time as the shoulders. These shoulders may be dressed in the shape of ducks or hornpipes, dishing them upon the same garnishings. 564 THE: EPICUREAN. (1752). SHOULDER OF LAMB WITH GLAZED VEGETABLES-STUFFED (Epaule d'Agneau Farcie aux Legumes Glace"s). Boil an unsraoked red beef tongue in water for three hours before serving, cut it up into quarter inch thick slices and from these remove two and halt' inch diameter pieces with a round cutter, keep them warm in a sautoir with a little stock (No. 194a). Bone thoroughly two shoulders of spring lamb, suppress the fat and sinews, then season the inside, cover the surfaces with a thin layer of lamb forcemeat (No.92)and bestrew with fine cooked herbs (No. 385). Roll the shoulders lengthwise, tie them firmly so to keep them in proper shape, then braise in a little moistening without browning. Drain and trim the ends, then cut the remainder of the meat into half inch thick slices, pare them rounded two and a half inches in diameter, and dress them in a straight row on a circle intercalat- ing each slice with one of tongue; arrange either around or in the center, according to the way they are dressed with glazed carrots, turnips and small onions; strain the stock, skim off its fat and reduce it with espagnole (No. 414) to the consistency of a half-glaze sauce (No. 413); serve this separately. (1753). SHOULDEES OF LAMB WITH PUREE OF CELERY-STUFFED (Epaules d'Agneau Farcies a la Pure~e de Ofleri). Bone two shoulders of lamb keeping on the handle bone and sawing the knuckle one inch from it; free the meat of fat and sinews, pare nicely, then season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Dressing for Stuffing the Shoulders. Take one pound of sausage meat, half a pound of finely chopped raw ham, four tablespoonfuls of finely chopped onions, half a pound of minced mush- rooms, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a quarter of a pound of dry bread-crumbs, two whole eggs and a seasoning of salt, pepper and nutmeg. Fill the two shoulders with this dressing, roll them up and sew them in such a way that none of it can escape, garnish the bottom of a sauce- pan with slices of fat pork, set the shoulders on top and moisten with a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); boil and simmer slowly for two hours and a half. As soon as the shoulders are done glaze and strain the stock, remove all its fat and reduce it to the consistency of a syrup. Dress the shoulder either on a celery puree (No. 711) or a tomato puree (No. 730), or one of artichokes (No. 704), or else of cucumbers (No. 714), macedoine (No. 680), or jardiniere (No. 677); trim the handle bones with frills (No. 10) and serve the gravy apart. (1754). STEWED LAMB, DUGLERE (Ragout d'Agneau a la Dugle're"). Have an equal weight of the rack, breast, and loin of lamb; suppress the skin from the rack, also the chine bone, and cut the ribs quite short nearly level with the large fillet, then divide these meat across in even pieces each one being an inch and a quarter wide. Cut the breast into inch and a half squares after paring and suppressing the skin; cutoff all the fat from the loin and remove the skin and chine bone, then divide it into inch and a quarter wide pieces. Fry these meats colorless in either lard or butter with two medium onions, one small carrot cut lengthwise in four and a pinch of sugar; when they begin to brown drain off the fat and moisten to half the heighth with stock (No.l94a) adding a garnished bouquet (No. 123) ;let the liquid fall to a glaze not allowing it at any time to cook too fast, and keeping it well covered ; have the meats brown nicely, then remoisten to their heighth and reduce this liquid. When half cooked drain off the piece to pare and return them again to the saucepan with the broth and half a bottleful of white wine; when the meat is thoroughly done and the liquid reduced to half, throw in some fresh green peas, young carrots, small onions, small new potatoes and new flageolet beans, first putting in those taking the longest to cook, having previously browned the onions in a frying pan. Finish cooking. Dress the meats around the vegetables, skim the fat from the stock and strain it over all. (1755). STEWED LAMB, NAVARIN (Ragout d'Agneau Navarin). Suppress all the bones of a leg of lamb, remove the fat and sinews, then cut it up into squares an inch and a half in size; put these pieces into a bowl to season with salt and pepper, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, garlic and cloves, also some Madeira wine, let marinate for seven hours; after the lapse of this time drain the meat and fry with grated fat pork and half a pound of small dice pieces of blanched bacon; moisten with the Madeira from the marinade adding also the aromatics and some brown sauce (No.414); cook the whole over a slow tire for two and a half hours skimming and adding half a bottleful of white wine. After the LAMB. 565 stew has been cooking for one hour put in with it a quart of fried and slightly browned turnip balls. Three-quarters of an hour later both meat and turnips should be done, skim nicely, season to taste and serve, dressing the meat in the center of the dish, the turnips around and the strained sauce over all. (1756). STEWED LAMB, PAKISTAN STYLE (Ragout d'AgneaualaParisienne). Bone and cut off all fat and sinews from a shoulder of lamb; divide it into one inch and three- quarters pieces and fry these either in butter or good fat; when the meat is a golden color, drain off all the fat and moisten with one quart of brown sauce (No. 414), a pint of stock (No.l94a) and a pint of white wine; add a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and garlic, salt and pep- per. Boil, skim and simmer, and after it has been cooking for three-quarters of an hour put in forty small onions fried in butter and as many potato balls, three-quarters of an inch in circumference, half a pint of tomato puree (No. 730), and a pound of small, cooked mushroom heads; it takes about an hour and a half to cook this stew properly. When cooked remove the bunch of pars- ley, skim off the fat from the stew and dress in the center of a dish, surround it with the vegetables and pour the strained sauce over all. (1757). STEWED LAMB, PEEUVIAN STYLE (Eagout d'Agneau a la Pe~ruvienne). Cut up into inch and a half squares one leg of raw yearling lamb; season the pieces with salt, pepper, allspice, two ounces of minced onions and squeeze the juice of a lemon over; let macerate in this for two hours, then drain them off and fry in butter; moisten with stock (No. 194a) and espagnole sauce (No.414) half of each to three-quarters of the height of the meats, then cook in a slow oven. After the meat is done, skim the fat from the stock and add to the stew one quart of cooked Lima beans (No. 2699); let the whole simmer on the range for fifteen minutes, then dress with the sauce and garnish around with sweet peppers fried in oil. (1758). STEWED LAMB, IKISH STYLE (Eagout d'Agneau a 1' Mandate). Cut some lamb tendrons into squares: shorten the rib bones of a rack, cutting it about level with the large fillet, suppress the skin and chine bone, and with the parings of both these meats, prepare a mutton broth. Plunge the tendrons into boiling water placed in a saucepan, put it on the fire, skim, then drain and pare the pieces and return them to the same saucepan with two small onions, one garnished bouquet, two finely shredded raw potatoes and proper seasoning; moisten to the height of the meat with the prepared broth, strained and free of fat. Cook the stew over a moderate fire in such a way that when the lamb is nearly done, the liquid is found reduced to half and slightly thickened, and the potatoes well dissolved, pass the sauce through a tammy; now add to it a garnishing of raw potatoes pared like olives and about the size of a walnut; and small blanched onions, also the meat; season with salt and pepper and continue to cook, both the meat and potatoes and onions should be done at the same time. Dress the lamb in a deep dish with the potatoes and onions around and strain the sauce over. (1759). STEWED LAMB WITH TUENIPS (Eagout d'Agneau aux Navets). To be made with two pounds of shoulder and one pound of breast of lamb. Cut up into one and three-quarters to two inch pieces, the best part of a shoulder and breast, having two-thirds of the shoulder to one-third of the breast. Heat some lard in a saucepan, put in the meat and brown while stirring, season with salt and a pinch of sugar, and when of a nice reddish brown, dredge over a spoonful of flour, five minutes later, drain off the fat and moisten to a little more than the heighthof the meat with broth (No.l94a), adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and a few grains of pepper. Boil together for five minutes, then withdraw the saucepan to a slower fire in order to cook the lamb without reducing the liquid too rapidly; pour in at intervals a few spoonfuls of broth and when the meat is three-quarters done, mix into the stew a garnishing of turnips shaped into balls or else quartered, browned in a pan with butter. Finish to cook the turnips in the stew. Just when ready to serve rub a piece of garlic on an iron spoon and let it steep in the stew for a few moments, dress the meat on to a dish, garnish around with the turnips and pour the strained sauce over. (1760). LAMB SWEETBEEADS A LA FINANOIEEE (Bis d'Agneau a la Financiere). Lard with lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52) some even- sized lamb sweetbreads previously parboiled, re- freshed and put to cool under a weight, range them closely together in a sautoir lined with fat pork, roots and minced onions; moisten to half their heighth with stock (No. 194a), and let this 566 THE EPICUREAN. liquid fall to a glaze; moisten once more and finish cooking in a moderate oven, basting over fre- quently in order to glaze them well. Prepare a rice border, shaping it by hand and channeling with a piece of wet turnip, or else a molded one may be used, pour some butter over this, and brown it in the oven. Range in the center of the border a financiere garnishing composed of truffles, quenelles, escalops of foies-gras, mushrooms, and cock's-combs, pouring over a financiere sauce (No. 464), place the glazed sweetbreads on top of this garnishing. (1761). LAMB SWEETBREADS A LA JOINVILLE (Ris d'Agneau a la Joinville). Braise some lambs' sweetbreads as indicated for the financiere (No. 1760). Prepare and pound a border made of forcemeat (No. 79), place it on a dish; lay a croustade made either of bread or paste in the center of the border; place the sweetbreads after they are well glazed around, and fill the croustade with a garnishing composed of quenelles, mushrooms, truffles, and a supreme sauce (No. 547) into which lobster butter (No. 580) has been added. Be- tween every sweetbread lay a slice of tongue cut out to imitate a cocks'-comb and glazed with meat glaze (No. 402) and on the summit of the garnishing place some round chicken quenelles decorated with truffles (No. 154). (1762). LAMB SWEETBEEADS A LA SEVIGNE (Kis d'Agneau & la S^igneO, Soak and parboil some hearts of lamb's sweetbreads, lay them in a sautoir lined with bardes of fat pork, sliced carrots and onions and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); moisten to their heighth with some stock (No. 194a), boil, skim and finish cooking in a slow oven. Put them to press in round rings; when cold take them out, cover with a thick Villeroi (No. 560), let get cold and then dip in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs. Poach some quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) in Savarin molds decorated with truffles, unmold and fill the hollow centers with a salpicon of truffles and mushrooms, cover over with a supreme sauce (No. 547). Have the sweetbreads fried in clarified butter and laid around the garnishing. (1763). LAMBS' TAILS A LA CONTI (Queues d'Agneau a la Conti). Parboil twelve yearling lambs' tails cut from the saddle at the beginning of the tail. Cover the bottom of a sautoir (Fig. 130) with fragments of fat pork, minced carrots and onions and a garnished bouquet (No. 123); put in the tails and moisten to their entire height with broth (No. 194a), then let them cook slowly in the oven. When done, drain them on a baking sheet, be- sprinkle with salt and set a weight on top, strain the stock, remove the fat and reduce it to half; when the tails are cold, pare them by cutting off the ends so that they remain only three and a half inches long, dip in melted butter, then in bread-crumbs and broil on a slow fire, dress on a dish in a circle, glaze well and fill the inside space with a thick lentil puree (No. 719). A thick half-glaze sauce (No. 413) accompanies these tails having it served separately. (1764;. TENDRONS OK GRISTLE 01 LAMB WITH KOBERT SAUCE-BROILED (Tendrons d'Agneau Grille's a la Sauce Robert). Raise the cartilaginous parts from the breast which are called the tendrons or gristle, remove the breast bones keeping on only the tendrons, season with salt, pare into half hearts and lay them in a double broiler after brushing over with oil, and then broil them on a slow fire; when done dress on a Robert sauce (No. 533), insert a small bone into each piece to represent a handle and trim it with a paper frill (No. 10). (1765). LAMBS' TONGUES WITH OLIVES (Langues d'Agneau aux Olives). Steep and parboil twelve lambs' tongues, then cook them in stock (No. 194a) drain and suppress the white skin that covers them. Line a saucepan with slices of fat pork, range the tongues on top one beside the other, and braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) with Madeira. After they are cooked place them under the pressure of a light weight to cool, then divide them laterally in two; pare nicely and heat in some clear gravy (No. 404), glaze and dress them in a circle, filling the Interior with a garnishing of blanched olives combined with Madeira sauce (No. 492) reduced with the stock, a766). LAMBS' TROTTERS A LA BORDELAISE AND A LA BORDELAISE WENBERG (Pieds d'Agneau a la Bordelaise et a la Bordelaise Wenberg). Scald, scrape and singe twenty-four lambs' feet, split them underneath through the thickness of the meat their whole length, remove the pointed hoof bones leaving the foot whole. Dilute a LAMB. 50? small handful of flour with cold water in a saucepan able to hold three gallons, add to it salt, whole peppers, parsley leaves, thyme, bay leaf, cloves, garlic and carrots cut in four; put in the feet and let cook for five hours; when done, drain. Fry six shallots colorless in butter, moisten them with red wine, a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), brandy and meat glaze (No. 402); season with salt and pepper, add the feet, simmer and serve them in a very little sauce. A la Bordelaise Wenberg. Prepare as for the above adding finely minced hot peppers, plenty of brandy and red wine, and when ready to serve, a little freshly ground black pepper. (1767). LAMBS' TEOTTEES A LA OHANTILLY (Pieds d'Agueau a la Ohantffly). Prepare the feet the same as indicated for poulette (No. 1768), placing them in a saucepan with two spoonfuls of chopped onions and shallots; moisten with two gills of white wine, and reduce to half, adding two gills of veloute sauce (No. 415), a garnished bouquet (No. 123), and a few fresh mushroom peelings; boil and reduce the sauce without ceasing to stir, incorporating slowly in it a few spoonfuls of mushroom broth, and when it is well reduced and succulent, strain and add to it the lambs' trotters; let them simmer in the sauce for twelve minutes over a very slow fire; at the last moment thicken the sauce with two raw egg-yolks diluted in cream. Take the stew from the fire and finish it with a few pieces of butter, a pinch of chopped parsley and lemon juice. Dress the feet on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and surround with a string of small stuffed mush- rooms (No. 650), or should they be too large cut them in two. (1768). LAMBS' TKOTTEKS A LA POULETTE AND A LA DIDIEE (Pieds d'Agneau a la Poulette et a la Didier). Singe with alcohol about two dozen well cleaned lambs' trotters, cook them in white stock (No. 182); suppress the hairy tuft found between the two divisions of the forked hoofs; shorten the bones of these hoofs and then split each foot in two lengthwise, and take out the large shank bone. Put some flour into a saucepan, dilute it with cold water and add salt, whole peppers, vinegar, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; moisten with more water then put in the feet either singly or else three bunched firmly together; boil, skim, and continue the boiling slowly, for five or six hours either on the corner of the range or else in a slack oven. Drain the feet and place them in a flat saucepan with mushrooms and veloute sauce (No. 415); season, boil, and thicken with egg-yolks, cream, fresh butter, lemon juice, and chopped parsley. A la Didier. Prepare and cook twenty- four feet as indicated for the above. Fry two table- spoonfuls of chopped onions in butter; when a light golden color, besprinkle with flour, and allow it to cook a few moments without browning; dilute this with some stock (No. 194a), adding a bunch of parsley and some mushroom parings; after it has cooked some time, skim off the fat and run the sauce through a sieve, then add to it the feet and some turned and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118); thicken with egg-yolks and fresh butter, and finish with strained lemon juice, and chopped parsley; serve very hot. (1769). LAMBS' TEOTTEES WITH TAEEAGON GEAVY-STUFFED AND BEOILED (Pieds d'Agneau au jus d'Estragon Farcis et Grille's). Prepare and cook the trotters the same as for the Poulette (No. 1768); (do not remove the shank bone before cooking); drain them from their stock and while yet hot suppress this bone without de- forming the foot; fill the empty space made by abstracting the bone with a fine quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) containing half its quantity of foies-gras from a terrine and chopped up truffles, seasoning very highly. Beat up two raw eggs, add salt and two spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385); dip the lamb trotters in this egg mixture one by one, drain well, then roll them in white bread-crumbs, afterward steeping them in melted butter; range them as fast as they are completed on a broiler and broil for twenty minutes over a slow fire, turning them over. Dress on a hot dish, pouring some clear gravy (No. 404) on the bottom of the dish to which has been added some blanched tarragon leaves. (1770). WHOLE LAMB A LA THEODOEA HOT AND COLD (Agneau Entier a la Theodora Ohaud et Froid). Bone the neck as far down as the third rib, break the rib bones in the middle of the breast, disconnect the sinews at the joints of each shoulder, and run an iron skewer through them; fasten 568 TTIE EPICUREAN. the thigh bones well on this skewer, then break the kernel leg bone and sever the two leg bones; cross over the two handle bones, then wrap the meat in strong buttered paper and lay it in a cradle spit (Fig. 116) to cook for one hour and a half, basting it frequently during this time. Un- wrap and let it acquire a fine color, then dress it on a large dish and lay around plenty of Sarah potatoes (No. 2802). Serve some clear gravy (No. 404) separately, pouring part of it over. Cold. After the lamb has been prepared and cooked the same as the above, let it get cold, then glaze it over several times with meat glaze (No. 402); garnish around with chopped jelly. On this jelly and all around arrange five kinds of egg garnishings, for instance eggs glazed with chatifroid (No. 2509); eggs a la Justine (No. 2505); eggs with salpicon (No. 2514), eggs a la Rouennaise (No. 2506) and eggs Juliet, (No. 2504). Serve separately a tartar sauce (No. 631). PORK (Pore). (1771), BAOON-SMOKED-WITH SPINACH, ENGLISH STYLE (Petit Sals' Fume* aux E'pinards a 1'Anglaise). Out from a side of smoked bacon some pieces weighing about a pound each; boil them in unsalted water. Clean some spinach, cook it in separate salted water, drain but do not chop. Put it into a sautoir with a piece of butter divided in small pats, and when prepared to serve place it in the center of a dish, remove the rind from the bacon, cut it in slices, and lay them overlapping one another on top of the spinach. (1772). BLACK BLOOD PUDDING (Boudins Noirs), Blood puddings are made with the pig's blood collected in a receptacle, and well stirred while hot to prevent coagulation. Composition. In blood puddings there is to be found, blood, leaf lard, onions, apple marma- lade, cream, salt, pepper, allspice, nutmeg, celery, savory, and parsley. Proportions. For twelve pounds of black pudding have three pounds of blood, three pounds of onions, three pounds of leaf lard, two pounds of apple marmalade, and a pint of cream. Chop up fine three pounds of onions, selecting the yellow ones in preference; put two ounces of lard in a saucepan with the onions, and leave to cook on a slow fire about two hours; stir from time to time. Have three pounds of leaf lard, take off the skin and cut up into quarter inch squares; put these into a colander and plunge it for five minutes in boiling water, being careful to keep the pieces detached; drain for a few moments without pressing. Put this lard in with the onions, when the latter are well cooked, and stir until thoroughly mixed; this should be done on a very slow fire; now pour in the blood straining it through a fine wire sieve (Fig. 170) to suppress any coagulated parts; mix all well, adding the apple marmalade; season with a third of an ounce of salt for each pound of preparation, a third of an ounce of pepper, allspice, chopped parsley, nutmeg, celery, and savory to taste. Keep these ingredients in a bain-marie at a seventy degree tem- perature, while the puddings are being stuffed. Soak eight yards of pigs 1 casings for half an hour in tepid water; run the water through them; be assured that there are no holes. Push a pudding cornet down the casing to the length of four inches, and fill by pouring in the preparation; close up the filled end with a tight knot after letting about two ounces of the preparation run out, thus avoid- ing the too fatty part. Divide the length of the filled casing into five inch pieces, beginning at the tied end and twisting the first division from left to right, and the second from right to left, and so on consecutively, alternating the twists. Make a knot at the other end and then lay this prepared part in a dry receptacle. Keep twenty quarts of water steadily boiling, and when all the puddings are finished, plunge them all together into this boiling water; take from off the fire and leave them about twenty-five minutes so they become cooked. To find out when they are done to perfection no blood must be seen issuing through a hole to be perforated in the skin with a coarse pin. To Cook. Score the pudding on botfr sides and boil on a moderate fire. Serve on a hot dish accompanying it with either French or English mustard seed separately. (1773). BREAST OF SALT PORK WITH CABBAGE (Poitrine de Pore sa!6 aux Choux). Have a two-pound piece of the breast of bacon, unsalt it for two hours, scrape and parboil for ten minutes, then lay it in a saucepan full of boiling water to let cook very slowly for one hour; add to it two small and very clean curled cabbages cut in four and finish cooking the bacon and cabbages together; drain off and press the cabbages in a colander to extract all their water, then lay it on a long dish. Remove the rind from the bacon, cut it up into slices and dress them symmetrically over the cabbage, pouring a little clear gravy (No. 404) into the bottom of the dish. (1774). CHINE OF FORK A LA PARMENTIER (Echinee de Pore a la Parmentier). The chine comprises the loin and a few of the rack chops; decrease the thickness of the fat, leaving it only half an inch in depth on its entire surface; beat down the projecting chine bone; (569) 570 THE EPICUREAN. score the fat into lozenges and wrap the meat in an oiled paper; cook it either on the spit or in the oven. The time it will take will be from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half; before serving unwrap the chine, sprinkle over with salt and brown it nicely; glaze and remove from the spit or oven. Dress and garnish around with potato balls cooked in broth and fried *n butter; serve a Bretonne sauce (No. 439) separately. (1775). CHITTERLINGS OF TEOYES (Andouillettes de Troyes). Chitterlings require a great deal of care in their preparation; in fact it must be remarked thai the quality depends entirely upon the proper cleansing of the bowels. Ingredients. Pork bowels, calf's crow, throat fat taken from the pig, salt, pepper, allspice, nut- meg, onion, shallot, mignonette and parsley. Take some pork bowels, removing the stomach and the casing, only using the large intestine, wash this in cold water. Turn it inside out in such a way that the fatty part is inside; in order to accomplish this easily, take a stick a yard long, place the end of it in three inches of the narrowest end of the pipe and run the pipe entirely on the stick, keeping it all the time in its original place; when it is all on let slide by pulling it slowly on the first part, that is on the stick, and the pipe will turn over all alone. Now clean it in luke- warm water acidulated with vinegar, changing it three times and leave to soak for three hours; rub it once more through the hands so as to remove all the remaining gluey parts. Put aside the uncrimped part of the pipe which will answer for wrapping purposes and set the remainder in a pot full of cold water; heat until the pipe becomes a little hard, not letting it boil. Afterward cut the pipe lengthwise, lay it perfectly flat spread it out and clean it thoroughly; cut it into thin strips as long as possible without separating the parts. Cut also into the same lengths the crimped part of a calf's crow suppressing the fat center. Cut up about a pound and a half of salt pork into strips. Now lay all these out on a table in the proportion of two-thirds of the bowels and the other third composed of crow and throat fat; dress in oblong shape, being careful that the left side has the least possible loose ends; the size to be about eight to nine strips. Season this laid out part with a minced seasoning composed of three onions, three shallots, half a handful of very finely chopped parsley, pepper, allspice, nutmeg and mignonette, strewing it over the whole. Pass a strap made of two six inch lengths of birchwood fastened together with an inch length of string through the opening on the left end, and turn it in such a way that the chitterling has the appearance of a twisted cable. Cut the pipes laid aside for wrapping purposes into sixteen inch lengths, have the fatty part outside, operating the same as when turning over the gut itself, placing the gut one inch below the hole; run the chitterling through, being careful to keep the first end at the extremity of the chitterling; tie both ends. Although this may appear very easy, yet it is a difficult operation to perform for iae first time and requires a certain practice. To Cook the Chitterlings. To have them very white, cook in a stock of half milk, half water, one onion, thyme, bay leaf, salt and lemon; leave to boil slowly for about three hours. In order to give a finer appearance, restuff the chitterling after the first cooking in an uncrimped pipe and leave on a slow fire for fifteen minutes, keeping it near boiling point. Now lay it in a napkin and press between two boards with weights on top or else in the press (Fig. 71); the chitterlings will bo square-shaped. To Broil. Score the chitterlings on both sides about three-sixteenths of an inch in depth, baste with oil or butter, broil on a slow fire and dress on a dish over a little clear gravy (No. 404). (1776). PORK OUTLETS A L' AURORA (Cotelettes de Pore k 1'Aurore). Cut off. six covered cutlets from a rack of pork, beat to flatten to half an inch in thickness, then season with salt and pepper; fry them in butter and when done range them on a dish capable of being placed in the oven; cover over with well-seasoned bechamel cream sauce (No. 411) thickened with raw egg-yolks and adding some very finely cut up chives. Press a few hard-boiled egg-yolks through a sieve holding it over the chops, and when the top is well covered, pour on some butter and brown in a brisk oven. (1777). PORK OUTLETS HALF-GLAZE AND WITH APPLES (Ootelettes de Pore a la Sauce Demi-Glace aux Pommes d'Arbre). Cut off and pare twelve cutlets from two racks of a young pig they should weigh about five ounces each after being nicely trimmed, range them in a sauteing pan covered with a layer of melted butter, add a bunch of parsley garnished with a clove, thyme, bay leaf, and season with salt and pepper. Pour over half a gill of Madeira wine, cover with buttered paper, put on the lid, and PORK. 571 POKE AMERICAN OUTS. (Pore Coupe a I'Am&icaine), Ham Leaf Lard Breast Shoulder Fore Knuckle Foot Hind Knuckle Tail Tenderloin Sirloin Back Fat (Larding Pork) Chine Neck FIG. 351. DIVISION OF PORK (Division du Pore). A pork is divided in two parts called halves, and each of these in thirteen, making twenty- six in all, exclusive of the head, which forms the twenty-seventh: 1. Feet (Pieds) 8. Fore Knuckle (Jarret de Devant) 2. Chine (Echine) 9. Hind Knuckle (Jarret de Derriere) 3. Tenderloin (Filet) 10. Breast (Poitrine) 4. Back Fat (Lard) 11. Tail (Queue) 5. Shoulder (Epaule) 12. Sirloin (Longe) 6. Ham (Jambon) 13. Neck (Cou) 7. Leaf Lard (Panne) The intestines not included in these are composed of: 1. Gut (Chaudin) 5- Lights (Mou) 2. Casing (Menu) 6. Caul Fat (Crepine) 3. Stomach (Panse) 7. Crow (Fraise) 4. Liver (Foie) 572 THE EPICUREAN. when the liquid reaches boiling point place it in a slack oven so that the chops cook slowly and brown slightly without attaching to the dish; after twenty minutes turn them over. Should the butter become too hot add a little broth (No. 194a) until thoroughly cooked, and when assured of this fact, remove the chops from the fire, drain off the butter and detach the glaze found adhering to the bottom of the dish with a little Madeira wine; now add a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), suppress the oarsley and drain well the chops, trim their handles and dress. Strain the sauce through a tammy finishing it with a little fresh butter and lemon juice; cover over the chops with half of this sauce, serving the other half in a separate sauce-boat. With Apples. Have the cutlets prepared and cooked the same as No. 1777, only garnish around with apples cut in one-quarter of an inch thick slices by two and a half inches in diameter; remove the seeds with an apple corer, fry them in lard and when nearly done sprinkle over some sugar and continue the cooking until they are glazed. (1778). PORK OUTLETS AND CHOPS, PLAIN AND OASTILLANE-BROILED (Cotelettes de Pore Grilles Nature k la Castillane et Ootelettes de Filet). Certainly the best way to prepare pork cutlets is to broil them; when fried they lose their finest qualities. From a small rack cut off six cutlets beat, pare, season and roll them in a little oil, then broil over a good fire for twelve to fourteen minutes, being careful to turn them; trim the handles with paper frills (No. 10), and dress on a very hot dish. Castillane. After the cutlets have been prepared and cooked as for the above, dress them on a hot dish and serve with a sauce-boatful of Castillane sauce (No. 443). Prepare chops the same as cutlets, they should be cut from a loin instead of from the rack. (1779). PORK OUTLETS WITH APPLE CROQUETTES (Ootelettes de Pore aux Croquettes de Pommes d'Arbre). Prepare and cook the cutlets the same as for cooked fine herbs (No. 1780), trim the handle bones and dress in a circle; fill the center with apple croquettes (No. 3016) in the form of inch balls, and serve separately a brown sauce (No. 414), with essence of ham (No. 390.) To make apple croquettes, mince some apples very small and cook them slowly in fresh butter; when nearly done add a little sugar and finish the cooking. Let this preparation get quite cold, then divide it into small parts of a sufficient size to make inch in diameter balls; roll these in bread-crumbs, beaten eggs and then more bread-crumbs, smooth this over neatly with a knife and fry the cro- quettes in very hot fat. (1780). PORK OUTLETS WITH COOKED FINE HERBS (Cotelettes de Pore aux Fines Herbes Ouites). After the cutlets have been pared and seasoned, fry them very slowly in butter turning them over when a fine color on one side; fourteen minutes will suffice to cook them. Lay the cutlets on a dish, keep it warm while detaching the glaze in the pan with a little gravy (No. 404), and reducing it with some half-glaze sauce (No. 413); add cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and lemon juice, then pour the whole over the cutlets; trim the handle bones with paper frills (No. 10), and serve. (1781). PORK OUTLETS WITH GRAVY, ROBERT OR GHERKIN SAUCE-BREADED (Cotelettes de Pore Panees au Jus, k la Sauce Robert, ou k la Sauce aux Cornichons). Prepare four cutlets with their rib bones beginning at the third rib from the neck; the meat should be white and firm; beat down to flatten to half an inch in thickness, then pare evenly and season witn salt and pepper, dip the cutlets in melted butter, then in white bread-crumbs and broil over a slow fire for fifteen minutes; when cooked and nicely browned, trim the handles with frills (No. 10), dress in a circle and pour some clear gravy (No. 404), into the dish. With Robert Sauce. Prepare and cook as above and serve with Robert sauce (No. 533). For Gherkin Sauce. Pour one gill of vinegar into a saucepan with two chopped up shallots and a pinch of pepper; reduce completely, then add some brown sauce (No. 414), and a little gravy (No. 404), reduce, despumate and just when ready to serve, throw in chopped up pickled gher- kins, or else have a pickle sauce as described in No. 518. (1782). PORK CUTLETS WITH MASHED POTATOES-HASHED (Cotelettes de Pore Hache"esala Puree de Pommes). From the rack of a young pig cut off six cutlets; pare and remove all the meat from the bones, keeping the rib bones for further use. Chop up the meats with half as much cooked udder and add to this hash, a third of its quantity of raw truffles in one-eighth of an inch dice-shaped pieces; season PORK. 573 highly and divide the preparation into eight even parts; shape each one similar to a cutlet using the reserved bones for handles, and wrap in squares of "crepinette" or caul fat; dip in beaten eggs, bread-crumb well, and lay them in a sautoir containing melted butter; heat simply to stiffen both sides, then moisten to their heighth with gravy (No. 404); boil the liquid, cover the sautoir and set it in a slack oven for an hour and a half; trim them with paper frills (No. 10). Dress and pour the reduced stock into the bottom of the dish and serve with a vegetable dishful of mashed potatoes (No. 2798). (1783). PIGS' PEET A LA ST. MENEHOULD (Pieds de Oochon k la St. M6n6hould). Have eight scalded and clean pigs' feet; soak them for several hours in water, drain, and place them in a saucepan with cold water; bring this to a boil, and continue simmering slowly for three-quarters of an hour; then drain, refresh, wipe and singe the feet; tie them together with a tape and range them in a stock pot having the bottom covered with large vegetables; pour over plenty of water and a bottleful of white wine, adding salt and aromatics, then boil again while skimming; now paste on the lid with a paste made of flour and water, and continue cooking the feet for twelve hours in the oven, allowing them to cool off in their own stock; drain, untie, and split each one in two lengthwise; season over with salt and mignonette, bread-crumb them English style, or with egg-yolks beaten up with melted butter (No. 13), then roll in bread-crumbs, broil of a nice color over a moderate fire, serve very hot. (1784), PIGS' FEET-BROILED (Pieds de Oochon Grille's). If the feet have to be cooked at home, then clean them well and tie them together in pairs; boil them in a stock in which salted meats have been cooked, or else in a broth fragrant with vege- tables, onions, carrots, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, basil etc., peppercorns, cloves and allspice; four or five hours will suffice to have them done properly, then let them cool off in the same liquid; unwrap and cut each foot into two parts; wet the surfaces with a brush dipped in butter or melted lard, pare and roll in bread-crumbs; broil them for fifteen to twenty minutes over a moderate fire. (1785). PIGS FEET TRUFFLED (Pieds de Oochon Truffe~s). This is one of the best, at the same time the easiest way of utilizing the pigs' feet. Make two pounds of forcemeat composed of one pound of fat pork taken from under the spine and a pound and a quarter of lean taken from the end of the tenderloin. Peel five good sized truffles, cut one of them up in slices to lay over the " crepinette" or caul fat, and the other four in small three- sixteenths of an inch squares. Mix the forcemeat with f he small bits of truffle, two eggs, two pinches of flour, and a few drops of orange flower water; season with a third of an ounce of salt for every pound, white pepper and nutmeg; mix well together and leave stand for half an hour. Bone four pigs' feet cooked in a white stock, cut the meat into small pieces and put them into a saucepan with good broth (No. 194a) just sufficient to cover, add the truffle peelings and a little sherry wine. After this has been boiling ten minutes pour the whole into a flat square vessel to make a layer half an inch thick, then leave it to get cold. Soak a " crepinette " or caul fat in cold water, wipe it perfectly dry and then spread it out; lay on this three slices of truffle placed lozenge form. Roll out a ball of the forcemeat of two ounces, flatten to an oval form. Cut some of the feet now formed into a jelly the same shape only a little smaller; and lay it on the forcemeat, cover with another piece exactly the size and shape of the first then wrap around the " crepinette " giving it while rolling it in the hands the shape of an oval. To Cook the Feet. Butter these with a brush, dip them in white bread-raspings, and then broil them over a slow fire; turn four times while cooking to allow the juice of the feet to penetrate the forcemeat. At the last moment increase the heat; they should be of a fine golden color all over. (1786). PIGS' FEET WITH TRUFFLES, PERIGORD (Pieds de Cochon aux Truffes du Pe~rigord) Cook the feet the same as when prepared for broiled (No. 1784), let them get partially cold in their stock, then drain, unwrap and cut each one in two lengthwise; bone every one of the halves properly, season with salt and mignonette and fill all their insides with a stuffing of pork and chopped truffles, with a quarter as much fine liver baking forcemeat (No. 81). Smooth the surface of this dressing and cover it over with slices of raw truffles; wrap each half foot in a square of soaked and well dried "crepinette" or caul fat, brush over with butter or melted lard, and dip them in bread-crumbs; broil for twenty minutes over a moderate fire, then dress on a hot dish with a little gravy (No. 404) added. 574 THE EPICUREAN. (1787), HAM A LA BENEDICT OK WITH JAEDINIEEE BOASTED (Jambon Eoti I la Benedict ou a la Jardiniere). Steep the smoked ham in cold water for twenty-four hours; wash, pare and remove the hip bone; put it in an earthen dish, pour over some Madeira wine and season with whole peppers, cloves, thyme, bay leaf, mace, garlic, sliced carrots and onions and lemon juice; keep it in a cool place for twelve hours turning the ham round several times in this marinade. Five hours before serving, wrap the ham up with its strained marinade fried in butter and moistened and reduced with white wine and the moistening of the marinade, in sheets of strong oiled paper; cover the paper with a flour and water paste so that the ham is hermetically enclosed, then cover this paste with another sheet of very thin oiled paper; lay it either on the spit or in the oven, pour oil over and roast for three hours; remove from the fire and make a small hole on the top to penetrate the paste and papers, set a funnel into this, and pour in a gill of good Madeira, the same quantity of malaga and half a gill of brandy. Cover the hole with a round piece of paper, and paste it over to concentrate all the steam which is essential to obtain success. An hour after, take the ham from the oven or spit, unwrap, pare carefully and glaze with meat glaze (No. 402); dress and garnish around with escalops of foies-gras, cocks'-combs and kidneys, and slices of red beef tongue three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and one inch and a quarter in diameter, quenelles and channeled mushrooms; cover the whole with a well-buttered supreme sauce (No. 547), and trim the handle with a paper frill (No. 10), insert a few skewers in the top garnished with cocks'-combs and channeled mushrooms (No. 118). This ham may be served with a jardiniere garnishing (No. 677) and a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) served separately. (1788). HAM A LA LEONAED-BOILED (Jambon Bouilli a la Leonard). Immerse in cold water for twelve hours a fresh, smoked ham, after cutting off the end of the handle bone and shortening the hip bone; suppress the part of the meat and the smoked fat and lay the ham in a large saucepan covering it over abundantly with cold water; set it on the fire, bring the liquid gradually to a boil, then drain off this water and replace it with tepid water, adding carrots, onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, sage and basil; season with peppercorns, cloves and mace. At the first boil remove it on one side so that \'c simmers only (the length of time for its cooking will be a quarter of an hour for each pound); when the ham is nearly done, fake the saucepan from the fire and leave it to cool off in the water for one hour longer. Just when prepared to serve drain the ham, suppress the rind and aitchbone, pare the fat and meat around and underneath and cut off all the meat from the handle. Lay the ham o:. dish and slice a piece off from the bottom so that it will stand plumb; glaze it over with a brush and place it in a deep baking tin with a little clear gravy (No. 404) and as much Madeira wine; boil this up and keep it in a slack oven for fifteen minutes, basting frequently with the gravy. Dress on a long dish on a three-inch high rice socle, trimmed like a croustade and colored in the oven; pour half the gravy over, trim the handle bone with a frill (No. 10) and surround with twenty-fourcrons- tades, eight filled with green peas, eight with asparagus tops, and eight with quarter-inch squares of mushrooms. Serve at the same time but separately a sauce-boat of Madeira sauce (No. 492). This ham may also be served with a garnishing of Italian macaroni or lazagnes and a tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 413) instead of the Madeira. (1789). HAM, EOASTED ON THE SPIT, MADEIEA SAUCE, OE MAEINATED AND EOASTED, WHITE WINE SAUCE ( Jambon Eoti a la Broche Sauce Madere, ou Marine Eoti au Pour a la Sauce au Vin Blanc). On the Spit. Select a small raw unsmoked ham, remove the aitchbone, saw off the handle joint and suppress the rind and part of the fat, leaving only a layer half an inch in thickness; pare the ham into a round shape, then lay it in brine from two to eight days, and later when needed for use, wash it in plenty of cold water; wipe and envelop the lean parts in a large slice of fat pork tie up the ham and roast it on the spit, basting it frequently with white wine; serve hot with a sauce-boat of Madeira sauce (No. 492). Marinated and Roasted in the Oven White Wine Sauce. Prepare the ham the same as for the above, only instead of salting it, place it in a vessel to marinate for two days with white wine and a seasoning of salt, pepper, sliced onions, cloves, minced carrots, parsley leaves, thyme, bav leaf, a little sugar and sweet oil; turn the meat over every three hours. Wrap the ham up with its marinade in several sheets of strong paper aud roast it in a moderate oven for three hours and PORK. 575 a half. Thirty minutes before serving, unwrap and glaze the surface, strain the stock, remove its fat and thicken it with a little brown sauce (No. 414; and white wine; boil for half an hour remove the fat, dress the ham, have it nicely glazed and pour a little of the sauce under, while serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. (1790X HAM, WITH OAEEOTS, STUFFED TOMATOES OE MUSHEOOMS-BEAISED AND GLAZED (Jambon BraisS et Glace" aux Garottes, Tomates ou Champignons Farcis). Have the ham of a young pig freshly salted and smoked; saw off the handle straight, also the hip bone; pare the meats and fat slightly, and lay it to soak in cold water for twelve hours, then drain, scrape well, wash and wrap it in a cloth; lay it in a soup-pot with four times its heighth of water, let it come to a boil, then set it on one side to simmer slowly; add to it carrots, onions, cloves, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and half a bottleful of white wine; allow it to boil for three hours, then drain, remove the cloth and cut off the rind. Lay (he ham in a low braziere (Fig. 134) with half a bottleful of Madeira wine, a little brandy, and four tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 402); finish cooking it in a slack oven, basting it often, and when the ham is of a fine color, and the liquid reduced, dress and decorate with a frill (No. 10). Strain and reduce the stock with some espagnole sauce (No. 414); cover the bottom of the dish with a third part of this sauce, serve seperately the other two-thirds in a sauce-boat. After the ham has been dressed, surround it with a garnishing of carrots cut into small pear- shape, blanched and cooked in stock (No. 194a), then a little sugar added and fallen to a glaze; rpour in a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413), add a piece of butter just when ready to serve. Stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842), stuffed mushrooms (No. 692), or any other garnishing may be substituted, serving with a separate half -glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira. (1791), HAM WITH SPINACH BOILED (Jambon Bouilli aux Epinards). Take a fine freshly salted, smoked ham, pare the meats also the fat, which should be exceed- ingly white; suppress the hip bone, saw off the knuckle bone and then unsalt the ham in a plentiful supply of water for twenty-four hours. If it should have been dried and salted for some time prior to the day of using, then it will require thirty-six hours of unsalting. Wash, drain and tie it in a towel. Five hours before serving lay it in a large braziere or soup pot with four tiires its volume of cold water, adding four quartered carrots, two onions containing six cloves, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, basil and mace, then let it boil and sim- mer slowly for four hours more or less, according to the weight and size of the ham, calculating a L quarter of an hour for each pound. To be assured that it is properly cooked, run the tip of a skewer into the flesh and if it can be withdrawn at once the ham is sufficiently done. Remove the braziere or pot from the fire half an hour before serving; drain the ham on a dish, take off the towel and pare the rind and fat tastefully; clean the handle bone thoroughly cutting off the meat for about two and a half inches from the end, then set it in the oven to dry the surface. Garnish the top of the fat with a thin layer of quenelle forcemeat (No. 92), containing lobster butter, and arrange in the center of this a fanciful decoration of pistachioes, truffles, etc. , cover with but- tered paper. Set the ham in the oven to poach the forcemeat, or if preferred glazed, then replace I it by a glaze made by besprinkling the fat with sugar and glazing it of a fine reddish color. Dress the ham on a garnishing of spinach (No. 2821), trim the handle with a frill (No. 10) and lay around some triangle-shaped croutons fried in butter; serve with a Madeira sauce (No. 492). i Instead of chopped spinach, English spinach (No. 2823) may be used. Serve a half -glaze sauce (No. 413) separately. (1792), VIRGINIA HAM WITH STEINGED EGGS (Jambon de Virginie auxCEufs File's). This dish is a favorite one among Spanish people. Select the ham from a young pig, pare and cook it the same as the boiled ham with spinach (No. 1791); when done, drain and cut off the rind, pare the upper surface evenly, and wipe the fat over with a cloth, besprinkle with a thin layer of powdered sugar and glaze it either under a salamander (Fig. 123) or in a very hot oven. Trim the handle with a frill (No. 10) and dress on a low, carved rice socle, placed on v a long dish. Break six- teen fresh eggs, place the yolks in a bowl and pound them without beating, then rub them through a strainer, and to poach them resemble coarse vermicelli; for this result it is necessary to have an oblong, wide-mouthed strainer, its aperture being six inches long by three wide and two inches and a half deep; the bottom must be furnished with six tin tubes shaped like a socket, having an opening at the bottom an eighth of an inch or less wide and soldered on the outside. Have a 576 THE EPICURE sugar pan of sufficient size and half full of twelve degrees hot syrup; keep the strainer on top of this boiling syrup, and pour the strained eggs into it, letting them fall through into the syrup; as quickly as they harden lift them out and spread in a sieve dampened with water, so that these strings do not adhere to one another, then dress them around the ham. Madeira sauce (No. 492) may be served separately. (1793). PIGS' HEADS WITH PUEEE OP SPLIT GREEN PEAS (Tete de Cochon a la Purge de Pois Verts Sees). Cut a pig's head into pieces, bone, singe and parboil; refresh and finish cooking it in white stock (No. 182); when done and ready to serve, drain out the meats, wipe them dry, and dress on a rather consistent puree of split green peas (No. 724) having it well seasoned and finished with a piece of good butter. Send to the table with a sauce-boat of half-glaze sauce (No. 413). This dish can also be served with a piquante sauce (No. 538), or else a Robert sauce (No. 533). (1794). KEENEL OF HAM A LA BIAREITZ (Noix de Jambon a la Biarritz). A kernel of ham is sufficient for eight persons. Soak it for eight hours in cold water, pare lightly and wrap up in a small cloth; put it into a saucepan with plenty of cold water and bring the liquid slowly to a boil; remove the saucepan to the corner of the range, so that the liquid simmers on one side only, it taking in all about two to three hours according to the size. Leave it in the water half an hour before serving, then drain, suppress the rind, trim the meat and fat care- fully, and dress it on a risot prepared as follows: Fry colorless two spoonfuls of onions, add a quarter of a pound of unwashed but clean rice, and warm it with the onions; wet it to three times its heighth with stock (No. 194a), boil and let cook in the oven without disturbing whatever until all the liquid is absorbed, then stir in a coffeespoonful of prepared red pepper (No. 168). Have six scalded tomatoes, twenty-four cooked mushroom heads, and sixteen small Chipolata sausages fried in butter (No. 657). When the rice becomes dry, pour over it four ounces of hazelnut butter (No. 567). Drain the ham, pare and glaze it over with a brush; lay the rice on the bottom of a dish, the ham on top and surround with the sausages and mushroom heads stewed in cream, placing santed sweet Spanish peppers, and the scalded tomatoes cut in two, pressed and fried in butter at the ends. A Madeira sauce (No. 492), should be served separately. (1795). KERNEL OP POEK A LA OAVOUR AND WITH NOODLES-SLICED (Tranches de Noix de Pore a la Oavour et aux Nouilles). Cut from the kernel part of a young, fresh pig, some slices to weigh four ounces each, beat to flatten to half an inch in thickness, then trim them round-shaped; they should now weigh three ounces each; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, saute them rare. Reduce some thick espagnole (No. 414); add to it fine cooked herbs (No. 385), and let it get cold; cover both sides of the slices with this and roll them in bread-crumbs, then immerse in beaten eggs and roll in bread-crumbs for the second time; smooth the breading nicely and fry in clarified butter. Have a spaghetti garnishing containing shredded mushrooms, clear gravy (No. 414), and ready prepared tomato paste, to be found at Italian grocers, and grated parmesan; pour this macaroni on a dish and dress the slices of pork on top. These slices may also be dressed on top of a garnishing of noodles fried in butter, and serve a tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 413) separately. . (1796). LOIN OF POEK A LA EEGLAIN (Longe de Pore I la Eeglain). Trim a loin of pork cut off from the first rib as far down as the ham, leaving but a quarter of an inch of fat on its surface; rub this over with salt and leave it so for twenty-four hours; wash, drain and wipe, then set it in a saucepan with melted fat, minced onions and garnished parsley. Place the saucepan on the fire to brown the meat slowly, and when a fine color moisten to a quarter of its height with stock (No 194a), bring to a boil aud finish cooking in the oven. Half an hour be- fore serving plunge one pound of rice in boiling water; set it on the tire and at the first boil take it off to pour in some cold water to stop the boiling, then return it to the fire and remove again at the first boil, now cover the saucepan and leave the liquid to simmer without letting it actually boil for ten minutes longer. Pour the rice on a sieve, drain it well and put it back into the saucepan with half the meat stock; boil it up then set it in a moderate oven; the rice ought to ab- sorb the stock, and when well cooked press it into a border mold (Fig. 139) previously dipped in cold water, then unmold it. Cut the loin up into about two ounce pieces without any bones and scarcely any fat; pare them into quarter inch squares; reduce the remaining stock with as much veloute (No. 415), add the meat, season with adash of prepared red pepper (No. 168), heat well then dish the meat up inside a border and pour the sauce over; dredge with chopped parsley and serve. PORK. 577 (1797\ QUAETEE OF POEK VALENCIENNES (Quartier de Pore a la Valenciennes), Have a quarter of a young pork, salted for eight days without any saltpetre, and when ready for use wash it well in cold water; remove the hip bone, tie it up and cook it in water: when three- quarters done drain, suppress the rind and finish cooking in the oven, and glaze with some clear gravy (No. 402) and white wine. Dress it on a long dish, trim the handle with a frill or ruffle (No. 10) and garnish around with risot (No. 739) in which two pounds of sausages have been boiled, finishing with a pinch of Spanish red pepper; at each end lay stuffed tomatoes (No. 2842), the rice on the sides, the slices of sausages on top. Cover the meat with an espagnole save (No. 414) well reduced with tomato sauce (No. 549) and seasoned with prepared red pepper; (No. 168); serve at the same time a sauce-boat of the same sauce. (1798). EAOK OF POEK OEOWN-SHAPED WITH SMALL ONIONS (Carre* de Pore en Couronne aux Petits Oignons). Cut off two racks containing six cutlets each, both the same length and height, leaving on a part of the loin; suppress the chine bone as far as the beginning of the ribs and lay the meats in around or oval deep dish so that the kernel of the chops be inside and the ends of the cutlets outside; tie the ends together with a piece of string and fill the inside of the crown thus obtained with sausage forcemeat into which has been mixed eggs and bread-crumbs, then cook in the oven for an hour and a half. Fry sixty small onions or more in butter, having them only slightly browned, then finish cooking in stock (No. 194a) till they fall to a glaze; dress and glaze the crown, garnish the center with onions and pour a Robert sauce (No. 533) over the whole, or a Provencal sauce (No. 529) to which add a little tomato sauce (No. 549). (1799). EACK OF POEK ON THE SPIT (Carre* de Pore a la Broche). Cut a rack of fresh pork containing six to eight ribs; leave it covered a quarter of an inch thick with its own fat and pare the chine bone; saw it off as far as the edges of the ribs, separate the adhering meat on top of the ribs and cut them so they are only two and a half inches long; score the top into lozenges, roll over the flap and tie up the rack with eight rows of string; lay it on the spit and leave it to cook for about an hour, basting it occasionally. Glaze, dress and serve over some clear gravy No. (404). (1800). EAOK OF POEK WITH STUFFED PEPPEES (Carre* de Pore aux Piments Parcis). Obtain a rack of pork containing eight ribs with the breast; remove the chine bone, and saw it off at the beginning of the ribs, bone also the breast leaving on only two and a half inches of the ribs; remove the fat all but a quarter of an inch and score this into lozenges. Roll over the flap, tie and set the meat in a china dish, season with salt, pepper, thyme, bay leaf, parsley and round slices of onion, pouring over some sweet oil and lemon juice. Wrap the rack and its marinade in several sheets of buttered paper, lay it in a baking pan, besprinkle with fat and cook it in a sufficiently hot oven for one hour. Twenty minutes before serving unwrap and leave the meat in the oven to brown and glaze to a fine color. Place the vegetables in a saucepan with some espagnole sauce (No. 414) and white wine; skim off the fat and reduce. Dress the rack, surround it with stuffed peppers (No. 2768), and pour some of the sauce over, serving the remain- der at the same time but separately. (1801), SAUSAGES OHIPOLATA (Saucisses a la Chipolata). Push some sausage meat (No. 68) into a sheep's casing being careful not to fill it too much; twist it into small inch to inch and a half lengths, turning each sausage in a contrary direction, the first to the right, the second to the left, and so on to the end; in this way the sausages keep together better while cooking. Prick the casing with a larding or any other needle. Cook on a slow fire and dress on a chipolata garnishing (No. 657). (1802). SAUSAGES GASTEONOME (Saucisses au Gastronome/. Garnish the inside edge of a pie-dish with a border of quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) laid on through a cornet; set on the bottom a layer of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), over this long sausages prepared with chopped truffles after pricking them, and cover the whole with an Italian sauce (No. 484) containing truffles; bestrew the surface with bread raspings and a pinch of grated parmesan, pour butter over and cook in the oven for fifteen to twenty minutes, until the sausages be well done and browned. 578 THE EFICUREAiSl'. (1803). SAUSAGES IN BAGS (Saucisses en Sac), Make some muslin bags twelve inches long by two and a half inches in diameter; fill them up with cold American sausage meat (No. 68), then cut them across bag and forcemeat together in halt' inch thick slices; remove the muslin, bread-crumb the pieces and broil or fry them in butter in the pan or else place in a little water in a frying pan and boil, then finish cooking in a moderate oven or on a slow fire. (1804). SAUSAGES WITH CEEAM POTATOES, BAKED (Saucisses aux Pommes de Terre Hachees a la Creme Gratine"es). Have some pork forcemeat the same as sausage forcemeat (No. 69); for each pound of this forcemeat mix in four ounces of cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and half a pint of bechamel (No. 409), also a little meat glaze (No. 402); thicken the whole with six egg-yolks; use this forcemeat to fill small sheep's casings previously salted, being careful not to have them too full, then twist the sausages into five inch lengths. Garnish the bottom of a deep baking dish with chopped potatoes and cream (No. 2780); lay the sausages on top after frying them for one minute in hot frying fat, pour oversome thick veloute sauce (No. 415) and bestrew with bread-crumbs and grated cheese; baste with melted butter and set the dish in a very hot oven to bake for fifteen to twenty minutes, or until browned to a fine color. (1805). SAUSAGES-PLAT-WITH TOMATO SOUBISE SAUCE (Saucisses Plates a la Sauce Tomate Soubise). Roll some sausage meat into four ounce balls and wrap these up in " crepinette " or caul fat; shape them into slightly lengthened flat pieces. There can be some parsley, tarragon or other herbs added to the sausage meat according to taste. Dip them in melted butter, then roll in bread- crumbs, and broil over a slow fire, afterward dress on a puree of tomatoes (No. 730), mingled with soubise sauce (No. 543). (1806). SAUSAGES WITH TEUFFLES (Saucisses aux Truffes). Take two pounds of fresh pork meat from the neck; remove carefully all the fibrous parts retaining as much meat as fat; season with an ounce and a half of salt, a teaspoonful of freshly ground allspice, and add four ounces of truffles cut in small dice or finely chopped. Make sausages of this preparation, broil and dress them on a garnishing of minced truffles mingled with supreme sauce (No. 547). (1807). SAUSAGES LONG-WITH WHITE WINE (Saucisses Longues an vin Blanc). Prepare some five or six inch length sausages the same as the Chipolata (No. 1801), prick them with a small larding needle, fry in fresh butter, and when cooked dress on a dish; drain the butter from the sautoir and replace it by white wine, chablis, sauterne or champagne, one or the other, extending the sauce with veloute sauce (No. 415); boil it up once, strain through a tammy, and finish with lemon juice and fresh butter; pour it over the sausages. (1808). SPAEE EIBS, PAEISIAN STYLE (Petit Sale" a la Parisienne). Take some of the breast ribs of a pig and salt them for twelve hours in a light eight degree brine; remove and wash off in cold water. To cook them it is better to take an already salted broth, one in which a ham or any other meat has been boiled. When this reaches boiling point, throw in the ribs and leave to cook without boiling. (1809). SUCKLING PIG, PIEDMONTESE STYLE (Cochon de Lait k la Piemontaise), Pick and wash two pounds of rice; parboil and lay aside a third part, then put it into a sauce- pan with strained unskimmed stock (No. 194a) reaching to more than twice itsheighth, season with a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and when the rice is cooked which will take about half an hour, stir in with a fork, four tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan. Stuff the inside of the pig with this, sew it up and cook it on a cradle spit or in the oven, basting it over frequently with sweet oil. Three- quarters of an hour before serving, set the other two-thirds of rice in a saucepan, moisten it with stock (No. 194a) and half a pound of chicken fat, adding also a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and a clove of garlic, bring to a boil, place in the oven and when the rice is cooked, remove the parsley and stir in with a fork, fresh butter, meat glaze, grated parmesan and mig- nonette. Dress this rice around the suckling pig and serve a Colbert sauce (No. 451) separately. PORK. 579 (1810). SUCKLING PIG, EOASTED ON THE SPIT, OE STUFPED AND BOASTED (Cochon de Lait Eoti a la Broche ou Farci), Empty well a scalded pig, truss the limbs and head, run it on the spit and roast before a good fire, basting it over with a large brush wet with oil. The great difficulty is to have it a beautiful color while cooking to perfection. It should take from an hour and a half to two hours, having the skin crackling Drowned and crisp. When the pig is cooked dress on a large dish and surround with water-cresses seasoned with salt and vinegar, serve at the same time a sauce-boatful of clear gravy (No. 404), or one of mint sauce (No. 616) or else both, and a vegetable dish of Naples style macaroni (No. 2959). Suckling Pig Stuffed and Roasted. The pig may be stuffed with an American bread stuffing (No. 61), in this case it will be necessary to cook it for half an hour longer. (1811). SUCKLING PIG, SALTED AND SMOKED WITH SAUEEKEAUT (Oochon de Lait Sale" et Fume" a la Choucroute). Empty and scald a suckling pig and keep it for ten days in plenty of brine con- taining four ounces of sage, four ounces of thyme, and half an ounce of bay leaf; drain dry and smoke it to a yellow color with sawdust into which mix a little sage. Boil the pig in water a quarter of an hour for every pound, dress when well drained on a bed of sauerkraut (No. 2819); gar- nish with the bacon, sausages, sliced carrots, and Chipolata sausages. A very rich clear gravy (No. 404) is to be served separately. (1812). TENDEELOIN OF POEK A LA MINUTE-MINCED (EmincS de Filet de Pore a la Minute). Have some cooked, cold, and well trimmed tenderloins of pork, cut in half heart-shapes; put them in a sautoir with a little gravy (No. 404) and heat up without boiling. Cover either of these meats with the following sauce: Fry a finely chopped shallot in butter, add to it some bread-crumbs and raw fine herbs; moisten with a little gravy, season with salt and pepper, and thicken with kneaded butter (No. 579). Just when prepared to serve, pour in a little diluted mustard; dress the mince, and pour the sauce over. (1813). TENDEELOIN OF POEK A LA PEINTANLEEE (Filet de Pore a la Prmtaniere). The tenderloin is the long, narrow plump piece of meat laying under the kidney along the spinal bone; it is a part of the loin; it weighs from half a pound to a pound. Have four fine whole pork tenderloins; pare, remove the sinews and lard them with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), line a sautoir with bardes of fat pork, sliced carrots and onions, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. Lay the larded tenderloins on top, moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a) and a gill of Madeira, cover with a round piece of buttered paper, reduce and let the liquid fall to a glaze; moisten once more until it reaches half the heighth of the meat, then cook for one hour or more in the slow oven; glaze and dress on a rice foundation an inch and a half high, garnish around with small carrots cut in the shape of cylinders or pears, balls of turnips, both blanched and cooked in broth, olive form potatoes, green peas and asparagus tops. Skim the fat from the surface of the stock, strain and reduce it with some espagnole sauce (No. 414), strain it once more through a tammy and cover the meat with a part of this, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. (1814). TENDEELOIN OF POEK, BLANQUETTE OE ESOALOPED, WITH MUSHEOOMS OE TEUFFLES (Blanquette de Filet de Pore, ou Escalopes aux Champignons ou aux Trufles). Have two pounds of the tenderloin of fresh pork; pare in order to remove the sinewy skin covering it, also the fat, cut up into one and a quarter inches in diameter escalops, an eighth of an inch thick; place them as soon as ready in a liberally buttered saute-pan, and season over with salt. Cut across in slices one pound and a half of large mushroom heads; add to the meat and cover entirely with melted butter, and a round piece of paper, and when prepared to serve, place them on a brisk fire to stiffen only, turning them over to finish cooking; drain off the butter, and add in its place, a few spoonfuls of veloute sauce (No. 415) a little chicken glaze (No. 398) and lemon juice, finally thickening with egg-yolks, butter, and cream. Dress the whole on a rice border. With Truffles. Replace the mushrooms by fresh truffles if procurable. 580 THE EPICUREAN. (1815). TENDERLOIN OP POKE, MARINATED (Filet de Pore Marine"). Pare several pork tenderloins; split them in two lengthwise, then beat and trim; lard them with fine larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), salt over, and range in a deep dish; cover with a cooked cold marinade (No. 114), and leave the tenderloins in this for twenty-four hours, being careful to turn them over at frequent intervals, then drain, wipe dry, and lay them in a sautoir lined with frag- ments of fat pork, minced carrots and onions; moisten slowly with stock (No. 194a), and reduce the liquid gently to a glaze ; remoisten several times, putting in very little at the time, until the meats are done, and then finish glazing in the oven. Dress the tenderloins, detach the glaze from the sautoir with a little clear gravy (No. 404) and two spoonfuls of the above marinade; thicken the whole with some brown sauce (No. 414), reduce, and strain it over the tenderloins. Surround with half heart-shaped croutons fried in butter. (1816). PORK TENDERLOINS, PIMENTADE SAUCE (Filets de Pore Sauce Pimentade). Pare the tenderloins and lard them with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52). Fry some mirepoix (No. 419) in butter, moisten it with Madeira wine and let get cold; cover the tenderloins with this and wrap them up in several sheets of buttered paper, then roast in a hot oven for twenty minutes; unwrap, glaze, and let attain a good color. Prepare a pimentade sauce (No. 521) reduced with the mirepoix; pour some of this sauce under the tenderloins and serve some separately. (1817). TENDERLOINS OF PORK, ROASTED, BROILED OR SAUTED (Filets de Pore Rotis, Grille's ou Saut6s). Roasted. Take small pork tenderloins; pare them nicely and lard with fine lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52); marinate them while raw for two hours, then roast for twenty minutes in a quick oven. Dress and pour their own gravy over, after straining and skimming it, surround with water- cresses. Broiled, MaUre-d" Hotel Butter. Pare the tenderloins, then split them lengthways in two without detaching the pieces; season with salt and mask with butter; roll them in bread-crumbs, and broil over a moderate fire, then cover with maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581). Sauted Half -Glaze. Cut them whistle-shaped in two lengthwise, beat and pare into half- hearts, season with salt and saute on a moderate even fire; drain off the fat, detach the glaze with a little Madeira and half -glaze sauce (No. 413), reduce, dress the tenderloins and pour the gravy over. (1818). PORK TENDERLOINS WITH PUREE OF CELERY-BREADED (Filets de Pore Pane's a la Pure"e de Celeri). Pare some pork tenderloins suppressing all fat and sinews, then cut them into lengthwise bias slices and trim into half hearts; season each piece with salt, dip into melted butter and roll in white bread-crumbs; broil over a bright fire and when done dress them over a puree of celery (No. 711). (1819). PIGS' TONGUES, PROVENQAL STYLE (Langues de Cochon a la Prove^ale). Prepare and cook some salted tongues; when they are cold cut them lengthwise in two. Pare eight peeled onions by cutting off the roots and stalks on the slant; mince them up finely and fry colorless in oil, moisten with stock (No. 194a) and white wine, add salt, pepper, a clove of garlic and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); boil and cook on a slow fire for one hour then remove all the fat and the parsley, and reduce with some thick be"chamel (No. 409), pass through a tammy. When this is cold cover each half tongue on the flat side with a part of this preparation after paring them all one size; besprinkle with some gastrite (No. 1187), heat and brown in the oven to a fine color, then dress in a circle and fill the inside with sauted sweet peppers (No. 2769), and around with stuffed onions (No. 2766). A tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced together is to be served separately. PORK. 581 (1820). ZAMPINO, MODENA STYLE, WITH STRING BEANS-STUFFED (Zampino Farci a la Hodene aux Haricots Verts). Zampino is the foot of a young pig, including a part of the leg stuffed (Fig. 352). Let this salt for twelve days in brine, and when needed for use soak it for three or four hours; scrape the rind and FIG. 352. prick it with a larding needle to prevent breaking while-cooking; wrap it up in a thin cloth, tie it at both ends and in the middle, and lay the leg in a braziere covering over with cold water; let it simmer for two hours or more and when the pointed end is done take out the leg, unwrap and serve over a garnishing of string beans. Serve separately a half -glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced with white wine. For the preparation of the Zampino see hams of chicken with Zampino (No. 2525). ADDITIONAL RECIPES. POULTRY (Volatile). (1821). CAPON A L'AMPHITRYON (Chapon a I'Amphitryon). A capon is a castrated cock fattened for the table; truss a good capon as for an entree (No. 178) selecting it white and very fat, fill the inside with a delicate quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) with truffles into which mix some chestnuts roasted in the oven and broiled Chipolata sausages after removing their skins, and stoned verdal olives; rub the breast over with half a lemon, then cover with bards of fat pork. Cook the capon as for poeler (No. 12) and when done, dress on a rice foundation and garnish around with clusters of channeled mushrooms (No. 118) with half-glaze stuffed tomatoes, and whole truffles with glaze (No. 402), a little Madeira and butter, strain the stock, free it of its fat and reduce with the same quantity of veloute (No. 415). Insert three skewers garnished with glazed truffles and crawfish on top and serve the sauce separately. (1822). CAPON A LA BRESSOISE (Chapon a la Bressoise). Singe, draw and clean well a fine capon; make a forcemeat by soaking a pound of bread- crumbs in milk, then pressing out all the liquid and adding seasoning and eight ounces of very finely chopped beet marrow and three whole eggs. Stuff, truss and tie up the capon as for an entree (No. 178). Place in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of lard and half a pound of fresh fat pork cut up in quarter inch squares, lay the capon on top and brown it slowly, then wet with some stock (No. 194a) and simmer, adding more liquid when needed until thoroughly cooked. Strain the gravy, free it of fat and untie the capon, dressing it in the middle of an oval dish, pour the well- reduced gravy over, serving a poulette sauce (No. 527) separately. (1823). CAPON A LA FINANCIERE (Chapon a la Financtere). This releve is dressed on an oval wooden bottom having in the center a four-sided tin support made hollow so that it be lighter. This wooden bottom and support must both be covered with a cooked paste or else of noodle paste (No. 142) dried in the air. Fasten a string of noodle paste of about three-eighths of an inch in diameter on the edge of the socle; this is intended for upholding the capons and garnishing. On the edge of the bowl of the plate, place a noodle paste border (No. 10). Prepare the capons as for an entree (No. 178) having them stuffed with a stuffing made of cooked chicken livers, grated fresh lard, truffle parings, bread-crumbs, salt and cayenne pepper. Cover over with bards of fat pork placed in a narrow braziere (Fig. 134) moisten with sufficient stock (No. 194a) to cover the capons, add aromatic herbs and lemon pulp free of seeds and peel, then cook on a good fire, having the liquid reduce to one-third, at the last moment drain off the capons, untie and dress one on each side of the support inserting a garnished skewer on top; fill in the sides between the capons with a varied garnishing composed of mushrooms, cocks'-combs and quenelles; cover over either with a veloute sauce (No. 415) if needed for white or a financiere sauce (No. 464) if for brown; surround the base with a row of peeled truffles cooked in wine and glazed over with a brush, and serve apart a veloute" sauce reduced with mushroom broth if for the white or else a brown financiere sauce with Madeira. (1824). CAPON A LA PONDICHE'RY (Chapon a la Pondich^ry). Draw, singe and truss a capon for an entree (No. 178), chop up finely a few onions, fry them colorless in butter, add to it some rice and moisten to three times its height with beef stock (No. 194a) seasoning with cayenne pepper, salt and butter; let boil then cook in the oven for twenty minutes. Line a buttered saucepan with carrots, onions and slices of fat pork, lay the capon on top and moisten with a little stock (No. 194a); let this reduce entirely then add more moistening and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. When the capon is done strain the stock, remove the fat and add it to the capon to keep it warm. Reduce the skimmed stock with veloute sauce (No. 415), curry, saffron and powdered sweet Spanish peppers; dress the rice on the bottom of a dish, lay the capon on top and cover it with a third of the sauce, serving the other two-thirds in a separate sauce-boat. (583) 584 THE EPICUREAN. (1825). CAPON A LA EEGENCE (Chapon a la Eegence). Singe, draw, and remove the breast bones from two capons; fill the breasts with seasoned butter, then truss as for an entree (No. 178); lard the breasts with fine lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), an I cover the unlarded parts with slices of fat pork. Put the capons in a covered braziere (Fig. Ib4), and moisten them with mirepoix (No. 419), to a little above their wings; cover over with buttered paper, and leave to simmer slowly for one hour. Uncover the braziere, take off the paper, and glaze all the larded parts. Have four larded sweetbreads, ten large truffles, twelve fine cocks'-combs, and eight big crawfish. Make a garnishing with chicken quenelles and mushrooms, combining these with some regence sauce (No. 532). Cut a piece of bread-crumb ten and a half inches long by four and a quarter wide, and three and a half inches high, it to be conical-formed; fry this, then attach it to the center of a dish with repere paste (No. 142), so that it can support the two capons; have these well drained and arrange them to rest against the bread, the rump parts uppermost. Pour the prepared garnishing into the bottom of the dish; place two large sweetbreads below the two breasts, and two more in the middle intersections, then two crawfish on each side of the sweet- breads; glaze the sweetbreads and the larded parts of the capon and serve with a regence sauce apart. Make six hatelets with the cocks'-combs and the truffles (Fig. 11), and fasten them in taste- fully. (1826). CAPON LEGS WITH TEUFFLES. KOAST CAPON (Cuisses de Chapon auxTruffes. Chapon Eoti). Bone entirely six legs taken from medium-sized and very tender capons; remove carefully the sinews, then season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; stuff them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which mix half as much small squares of foies-gras; sew them up and braise in a mirepoix and white wine stock (No. 419); moisten slowly, being most careful to baste frequently, and when done, withdraw the threads, glaze and dress the legs on the strained and skimmed stock. Serve separately a supreme sauce (No. 547), with sliced truffles added. Roast Capon. Stand the capon on the grate fitting in the roasting pan; for this see the plate in roasted sirloin of beef (Fig. 306); have the bird trussed for roasting (No. 179). The grater is used so that the meat does not lie in the dripping, this being the best way to attain perfect results in roasting, but attention must be paid to keep turning it over and basting frequently with the dripping fat; care must also be observed not to allow this fat to burn, and in order to avoid this pour a little hot water from time to time into the pan. After the capon is nicely done, withdraw untruss, and serve it on a very hot dish; drain off all the fat so that only the glaze remains in the pan, detach this with a clear gravy (No. 404), strain the gravy, remove the fat and pour a part of ^t over the capon, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. CHICKEN (Poulet), (1827). CHICKEN BEEASTS A LA CHEVEEUSE (Estomacs de Poulet a la Chevreuse). Dip the breasts of two or three chickens in boiling water, lard them with some fillets of ham, knd truffles cut the size shown (No. 4, Fig. 52), braise and as soon as cooked drain and arrange them against a triangle-shaped bread support; between each chicken lay a group of truffles, one of olives and another of quenelles; pour some supreme sauce (No. 547) around them and serve more in a sauce-boat. (1828). CHICKEN A LA DELISLE-BEOILED (Poulet Grille k la Delisle). Split a chicken in two through the back after having drawn, singed and cleansed it well; trim it nicely, remove the lights and season with salt and prepared red pepper (No. 168), dip in melted butter, then roll in bread-crumbs and broil over a slow fire; serve on a garnishing prepared as follows: Peel four medium tomatoes, cut them in four, press out the seeds and fry m butter with finely shredded green peppers, adding a little kneaded butter (No. 579), let simmer until thoroughly done. Prepare a low oval border of FlG Piedmontese risot (No. 739) with parmesan; unmold on a dish and lay the tomatoes in the center with the broiled chicken on top; trim the drum sticks with frills (No. 10), and serve very hot. POULTRY. 585 (1829), CHICKEN A LA IRVING-BROILED AND STUFFED (Poulet Farci et Grille" k la Irving). Procure very young chickens each one to weigh a pound and a quarter; draw, singe and clean them well picking out all the pin feathers; split them in two through the back, and take off the meat from the legs without injuring the skin; chop up this meat with the same quantity of fresh fat pork, a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and half as much bread-crumbs; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, adding one whole egg; lay this dressing in the inside part of the chickens, cover with melted butter and besprinkle with bread-crumbs; lay them on a double hinged broiler to broil very slowly but to a fine color. Fry colorless one tablespoonful of onions with as much small squares of raw ham; moisten with a gill of veal blond (No. 423), a gill of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and a gill of tomato puree (No. 730); let the whole simmer for ten minutes, then strain the sauce through a fine sieve and pour it into the bottom of the dish; sprinkle over with chopped parsley and lay the stuffed chickens on top. (1830). CHICKEN WITH BACON, MAITRE-D'HOTEL-BROILED (Poulet Grills' au Petit Sale" & la Maitre-d'Hotel). Singe a good small chicken, draw and clean it well plucking out all the feathers; leave the pinions on; cut off the legs one inch below the joint and split the chicken down through the back to open it entirely; take out the breast bone and lights, clean the insides properly decreasing the bones of the carcass; beat the chicken in order to flatten it, and pare (Fig. 353), then lay it in a dish and baste with melted butter or oil; season with salt and place it in a double broiler to broil over a slow fire for fifteen to twenty minutes; after the chicken has acquired a fine color and is properly done, dress it on an oval hot dish and cover with some maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581), surround with slices of bacon and serve. (1831). CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON GEAVT OR SAUCE-BROILED (Poulet Grills' au Jus a 1'Estragon ou a la Sauce & 1'Estragon). Draw a young pound and a half chicken, cut off the legs at the first joint, cut a slit in the chicken near the pope's nose and pass the stump bone through the slit; split the chicken in two lengthwise, pare each part, beat down to flatten, season and roll in melted butter, then in white bread-crumbs and broil on both sides turning over when the meats are found to be done. Dress the two half chickens on a hot dish garnish the leg bones with frills (No. 10), and serve with some good tarragon gravy or else with tarragon sauce (No. 548). (1832). CHICKEN COOOTTE (Poulet en Cocotte). i Cut up one small pound and a quarter to pound and a half chicken; season with pepper, only divide it into four parts, the two legs and the breast part cut in two; put the pieces in the bottom of a cocotte (small earthen saucepan, Fig. 354) with a little piece of butter the size of a nut, placing the legs underneath and the breasts on top, add a small bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and over lay two ounces of unsmoked bacon cut in five-eighths inch squares blanched, then fried in butter, also a dozen and half pieces of potato-shaped like cloves of garlic and as many small raw onions fried to a light color in butter; lay here and there half Fio. 854. an ounce more butter, put on the lid and push into a moder- ate oven for half an hour. The cocotte should stand directly on the bottom of the oven; turn the ingredients over carefully ranging the meat on top of the vegetables; let cook for another ten to fifteen minutes, then add a little clear gravy (No. 404) and chopped parsley; toss and serve in the cocotte itself. (1833). EPIGRAMMES OF CHICKEN A LA VOLNAY (Epigrammes de Poulet a la Volnay). Kaise the fillets from four chickens, remove the minion fillets and skin, bone thoroughly and stuff the thighs, then put them into half heart-shaped bottomless molds three-eighths of an inch high, braise and leave to cool under the pressure of a weight; pare, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs 586 THE EPICUREAN. and fry nicely. Saute the breasts on a moderate fire, drain and dress them in a circle alternated with the thighs, decorate with fancy favor frills (No. 10); and fill the center with a garnishing of whole chestnuts, truffles, mushrooms and cover with veloute sauce (No. 415) that has been thickened at the last moment with egg-yolks and raw cream. (1834). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA BERANGER (Pilets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Beranger). Raise the fillets or wings with the pinions attached from six roasted chickens of two pounds each, having them well larded and not too much cooked; pare nicely, suppressing the skin and lay them in a sautoir with well buttered cream bechamel (No. 411). Dress them in a circle with a crouton of unsmoked red beef tongue between each piece. Add some mushroom heads to the bechamel and use them to fill in the center of the circle; lay on top half-spherical decorated chicken quenelles and garnish around with small half heart bread croutons fried in butter and having their pointed ends dipped first in meat glaze (No. 402), then in chopped parsley. The word "ailes" should be used in preference to the word " filets " in making French menus, to avoid the repetition of this word which appears so often in French. (1835). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA BODISKO (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Bodisko). Raise the large fillets from six two pound chickens; suppress the skin and split them in two through their thickness without detaching the parts; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and fill up the opened space with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) mixed with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Break six egg-yolks in a dish, add two gills of melted butter and beat them together; dip the fillets into this and then roll them in bread-crumbs; lay them on a buttered baking pan, pour butter over and cook in a hot oven, then drain. Trim the pointed ends with favor frills (No. 10), and dress the fillets in a circle filling the center with cepes fried in butter, moistened with sour cream and reduced. Serve separately a well buttered white bordelaise sauce (No. 436), thickening it with egg-yolks and butter, straining it through a tammy. (1836). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA CERTOSA (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet k la Cfrtosa). Clean well six good fleshy chickens; raise the fillets covered with their skin and saute them in butter. Prepare a fine Julienne (No. 318) with the red part of carrots blanched in an abundance of water, drained and fried in butter with mushrooms, cut the same shape and size, and also some truffles cut likewise. Add the Julienne to the chickens, moisten with very little broth (No. 194a), and Marsala wine, cover the saucepan and let cook in a slack oven; baste and moisten the chicken slowly, and as soon as the sauce is found to be sufficiently reduced, thicken it with veloute sauce (No. 415), egg-yolks, and cream, then dress the fillets in a pyramid, and pour the sauce over; garnish around with bread-crumb croutons cut heart-shaped, and fried in butter. (1837). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA CHISELHURST (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Chiselmirst). Raise the fillets from six two pound chickens; pare, suppress the skin, and lard six of them with small shreds of larding pork (No. 3, Fig 52) and the other six with slices of truffles the same size as the pork; pare the minion fillets and lard six with smaller pork lardons than those used for the fillets, and the other six with small pieces of truffles cut the same size. Lay them in two separate buttered sautoirs, the truffles in one and the larding pork in the other, having previously given the minion fillets the shape of a crescent. Cover over the truffled fillets with thin lardon of fat pork, and cook those larded with FIG. 355. pork on a brisk fire while those with truffles are to be cooked FlG more slowly. Dress in a circle alternating the two kinds, and fill the center with balls of truffle mingled with supreme sauce (No. 547). Place the truffled minions on top of the larded fillets and the larded minions on top of the truffled fillets; cover with alight supreme sauce, serving some of the sauce in a sauce-boat. POULTRY. 587 (1838). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BEEASTS A LA CUSSY (Filets on Ailes de Poulet a la Cussy). Pare twelve chicken fillets being careful to keep the minion fillets aside, beat these large fillets to flatten them, then pare into half hearts, rounded on one side and pointed on the other, season with salt and white pepper. Take the minion fillets, the parings and as much raw chicken meat and with it prepare a cream forcemeat (No. 75), adding to it a quarter as much very fine mushroom puree (No. 722). Pour clarified butter into a sautoir, heat it well and range the chicken fillets on top simply to stiffen on one side only; drain them off leaving the butter in the pan and place the fillets on a baking sheet, one beside the other, cover with buttered paper and let get cold without any pressure, then pare. Cover these fillets with the cream forcemeat, smooth them well rounded on the top and range them once more in the sautoir containing the butter, place them in the oven to finish cooking and to poach the forcemeat; brush them over with butter as soon as the forcemeat becomes sufficiently solid not to have them spoiled, then dress them rosette-shaped on a dish, garnishing each pointed end with a favor frill (No. 10). Serve with a well buttered supreme sauce (No. 547), part of it poured under the fillets and the other part served separately. (1839). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A L'ECARLATE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a 1'Ecarlate). Take the fillets from six medium chickens, remove all the skin and epidermis, detach the minion fillets and free them of the sinew and skin which covers them, streak them with pieces of beef tongue and form into rings and place in a buttered sautoir. Saute the large fillets over a brisk fire with butter. Cut twelve slices of very red beef tongue into half hearts the size of the fillets and three-sixteenths of an inch thick; warm them in stock (No. 194a) and just when ready to serve, drain and decorate each fillet with a favor frill (No. 10), dress in a circle having them intercalated with the half-hearts of tongue. Poach the minion fillet rings, fill the inside of the circle with a garnishing composed of small mushroom heads, truffle balls and quenelles all mixed with veloute sauce (No. 415), reduced with cream, and range the minion fillets around the whole; serve a well buttered veloute sauce separately. (1840). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS, OHEVALET A L'EOUYERE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet ^ Ohevalet a 1'Ecuyere). Prepare the large fillets and minion fillets the same as for Harrison (No. 1844), lay them on sheets of tin bent into semicircles three inches by one and a half high, well buttered and maintain both fillets on this mold with wooden skewers run through holes bored in the tin, laying the streaked minion fillets on top of the larger fillets underneath (Fig. 358) baste over with butter and cook in a slow oven. Truss some fine crawfish cooked a la bordelaise, dress them crown- shaped on a dish garnished with a tomato puree (No. 730) and lay the fillets of chickens on top of the crawfish; serve separately a bordelaise sauce (No. 436) made with white wine and having three-sixteenths inch squares of mushrooms added. (1841). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A L'lMPERATRIOE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet Im- peratrice). Procure six young chickens each one weighing about a pound and a half; lift off the breasts with the pinions and large fillets attached and suppress all sinews and skin. Chop the fillets on both sides without penetrating through the flesh and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; dampen the surfaces with egg-white, besprinkle with very finely chopped truffles and over these spread a very thin layer of cream forcemeat (No. 75); dip in fresh bread-crumbs and lay them on a buttered sheet, pour butter over and cook in a hot oven. Make some croustades in half heart-shaped but- tered bottomless molds lined with puff paste fragments (No. 149) rolled out thin; line them with but- tered paper and fill them with rice and then cook in a moderate oven; when done empty out and fill up with bits of celery cut in quarter-inch dice, blanched, cooked in broth and fallen to a glaze, then mingled with veloute sauce (No. 415) and thickened; when ready to use with egg-yolks diluted in cream and a few small pats of butter. Lay the breasts on top of these croustades, trim the pinions with paper frills (No. 10) and serve very hot. 588 THE EPICUREAN. (1842). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS, EPICUREAN (Pilets ou Ailes de Poulet a I'Epicurienne). Prepare the fillets of six young two-pound chickens, observing that they be white and tender; remove the skin and epidermis and lard them with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52), place them in a buttered sautoir and let cook to attain color in a very hot oven, then drain and decorate with frills (No. 10). Streak each minion fillet with six round thin slices of truffles, roll them into rings and place them in a buttered sautoir to poach in the oven without coloring. Dress the large fillets on a forcemeat ring and decorate the outside with the minion fillets. Detach the glaze from the bottom of the sautoir FIG 359 with a little sherry wine, free it of all fat and add a little veloute sauce (No. 415); thicken just when ready to serve with raw egg-yolks diluted with cream and fresh butter; run the sauce through a tammy and pour a part over the breasts and minions and the balance in a sauce- boat. Make twelve five-eighths of an inch diameter balls with foies-gras taken direct from a terrine, rubbed through a sieve; dip them in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry in very hot frying fat; place one of these balls in the center of each minion fillet ring and serve at once. (1843). CHICKEN PILLETS OR WINGS A LA GENIN (Pilets on Ailes de Poulets a la Genin). Take the skin covered fillets from six chickens with the wings, and after paring them neatly, saute them in butter over a good fire, seasoning with salt and pepper; when done and a fine color, add a little finely chopped shallots and let these fry with the chicken fillets, then add some finely minced fresh mushrooms; when these have evaporated their humidity, moisten with white wine and finish with a little chicken glaze(No. 398). Dress the wings on half heart-shaped bread croutons fried in butter; add a little veloute sauce (No. 415) to the sauce, reduce and season properly, finishing it with a little foies-gras; pass through a fine sieve, pour over the fillets, sprinkle chopped parsley over and serve very hot. (1844). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA HARRISON (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Harrison) Pare twelve raw chicken fillets to the shape of half hearts; lift off the minion fillets and remove the sinews and fine skin which covers, then cut six bias incisions through half of the thickness of these minions and in each of them lay a thin round slice of truffle. Place the fillets in a buttered sautoir and the scored minions on top lengthwise, pour butter over and cover with a strong buttered paper; cook for ten to twelve minutes on a, slow fire. Prepare some boned terrapin a la Maryland (No. 1085); spread a quarter inch thick layer of this on a baking sheet and when cold cut it up into oblong pieces, one and three-quarters wide by three and a half long; dip these pieces in eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry to a fine color; drain, wipe and dress the fillets flat on these terrapin crusts. Pour a little half-glaze (No. 400) with Madeira in the bottom of the dish and serve with a separate sauce-boat of espagnole sauce (No. 414) into which squeeze the juice of an orange, adding a dash of cayenne pepper, meat glaze (No. 402) and plenty of butter. (1845). CHICKEN FILLETS AND BPEASTS A LA LORENZO (Filets et Ailes de Poulets a la Lorenzo). Raise the breasts with the fillets from six young, one pound and three-quarters to two pound chickens; lift off the skin and epidermis, also the minion fillets; place the breasts on a buttered baking sheet with the minions scored with truffles on top, laying them along the thick edge of the breasts: pour over butter and cover with buttered paper, then cook in a moderate oven; garnish the minions with paper frills (No. 10). Dress crown-shaped and fill the inside with a Lorenzo garnishing made as follows: Lorenzo Garnishing. Have espagnole sauce (No. 414) with a few tarragon leaves added, celery cut in one inch pieces, blanched and cooked in broth (194a); blanched olives stoned and filled with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) containing ancho- vies, whole chestnuts cooked in broth; artichoke bottoms pared into half hearts, five-six- teenths inch squares of truffles and some large capers. The border for chicken breasts a la Lo- renzo, are made oval and in the following manner: Butter a mold (Fig. 139) with butter softened without being melted; decorate the sides either with fanciful cuts of truffles, or tongue, or even both; fill it up with cream forcemeat (No. 75) or quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and lay this border in a sautoir; pour boiling water around, set it in a slow oven and when poached, meaning whe\i firm to the touch, unmold and dress the breasts on top and the garnishing in the center. POULTRY. 589 (1846) CHICKEN PILLETS OR BREASTS A LA LUCULLUS (filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Lucullus). The large and the minion fillets are to be prepared as described in the Harrison fillets (No. 1844), lay them in a buttered sautoir, twisting slightly so as to have them assume the shape of a chop; lay the minion fillets on the outside edge of the large fillet, mask with melted butter, cover with a strong buttered paper and cook in a slack oven for twelve to fifteen minutes; trim the pointed ends with favor frills (No. 10); dress the fillets in a circle filling up the inside with FlG 362 a garnishing of truffles and tongue balls half an inch in diameter, also capon kidneys, all to be mixed with bearnaise sauce (No. 433) into which has been stirred a few spoonfuls of meat-glaze (No. 402). (1847). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA MAROEAU (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Marceau). Remove the breasts from six chickens each one of them to weigh from a pound and a half to two pounds; suppress the skin and sinews and lift off the minion fillets to streak with truffles; pare the large fillets into half heart-shapes, and lay them in a buttered sautoir; place the minion fillets on the outer edges, pour over butter, cover with buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven. Fill with cream chicken forcemeat (No. 75) some flat quarter inch thick half heart-shaped molds, placed on a sheet of buttered paper and poach very lightly, then saute on both sides in butter and dress uninolded in a circle with the chicken fillets on top. Prepare a Marceau sauce (No. 495); when ready to serve add a little fresh butter; fill the middle of the circle with small mushroom heads fried in butter, cover over with a part of the sauce and send the remainder to accompany the dish poured into a separate sauce-boat. (1848). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA MAREOHALE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Mare"chale). Pare twelve raw chicken fillets; remove the minion fillets, and suppress the senews and skin which covers them, then marinate in salt, pepper, parsley leaves, and lemon juice. Make an in- cision on one side of these large fillets, and fill it in with a Duxelle (No. 385), or else fine herbs cooked with truffles; dip in beaten eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs, and baste with clarified butter; immerse them once more in the bread-crumbs, and put on them a buttered baking sheet; pour melted butter over, and brown in a brisk oven, or else broil over a slow fire, or even saute them in clarified butter; trim with favors (No. 10) and dress in a circle filling in the inside with a Toulouse gar- nishing (No. 766). Dip the minion fillets in a fine light frying batter (No. 137). roll them up into rings, and when fried and have attained a fine color, drain and dress pyramidically over the Tou- louse garnishing. A supreme sauce (No. 547) to be served separately. (1849), CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA MIRABEAU (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Mirabeau), Keep the minion fillets when removing the fillets or wings from the chickens; suppress all the skin and sinews from the large fillets, take off the minion fillets and marinate the larger ones for two hours in a vessel containing salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice, thyme, bay leaf, and pars- ley leaves, turning them over frequently; remove, drain, and roll in flour, then in beaten eggs, and lastly in bread-crumbs; fry in clarified butter. Pare the minion fillets into oblongs, spread over a layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and roll them into cylin- der shapes, now range them inside a buttered timbale mold and let cook in a slow oven. Dress the chicken breasts in the center of a dish on top of a little Mirabeau sauce (No. 500), surround them with the prepared paupiettes, and on every one of these lay a channeled mushroom (No. 118) cooked and glazed in chicken glaze (No. 398). Serve with a sauce-boatful of the same sauce. 590 THE EPICUREAN. (1850). CHICKEN HLLETS OE BREASTS A LA PATTI (Pilets on Ailes de Poulet a la Patti). Raise the large fillets from six young, two pound chickens that are quite fleshy, suppress the skin and epidermis; remove the minion fillets and from them the nerves and skin; streak these with red beet' tongue. Cut an incision through one side of the large fillets without detaching the parts; turn over so that the cut part is now outside; fill in the inside with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which incorporate some foies-gras pressed through a sieve; make the fillet oval-shape like an egg, and lay the F streaked minion fillet along the top of it. Place in a buttered sautoir, cover each fillet with a thin slice of fat pork, and cook in a moderate oven. Prepare a cream forcemeat (No. 75) border decorated with pistachios; poach, unmold, and dress with the fillets or breasts over, garnishing with favor frills (No 10); fill the inside of this border with very thick, well buttered chicken puree (No. 713), into which add half the same quantity of rice boiled in almond milk (No. 4). Garnish around with sliced truffles heated in a little meat glaze (No. 402), butter and Madeira, and serve with a sauce-boatful of supreme sauce (No. 547). (1851). CHICKEN FILLETS OE BEEASTS A LA PEIMATIOE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Primatice), Clean and singe six two pound chickens; lift off the large fillets and detach the minions, remove the skin and epidermis from the large fillets and lay them in a buttered sautoir. Suppress the sinews from the minion fillets, also the fine skin which covers and cut six incisions at equal dis- tances on their length; insert an oblong piece of truffle into the first incision beginning at the smallest end; an oblong of tongue into the second incision, and so on, alternating them until the entire six are filled, then twist the minions into a round-shape and place them in a buttered sautoir; use a cornet to push into the centers some forcemeat having half quenelle (No. 89) and half cream (No. 75), both well mixed together and set a round piece of truffle on top, having it an eighth of an inch thick by three-quarters of an inch in diameter, pour over melted butter, cover over with strong buttered paper and cook in a slack oven for six to eight minutes. Saute the large fillets on a quick fire, then dress them in a flat circle over croutons of bread cut the same shape, but slightly narrower. On each fillet lay one minion fillet and fill the inside of the circle with a gar- nishing of fillets of mushrooms an eighth of an inch wide by five-eighths of an inch long; green peas, lozenge-shaped string beans, the red part of a carrot cut in triangles, quarter of an inch squares of turnips, truffles cut olive-shaped, and semi-circular pieces of tongue, all of those being added to a little veloute (No. 415) and fresh butter. Have a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with truffle essence (No. 395) served at the same time, but separately. (1852). CHICKEN FILLETS OE BEEASTS A LA PEINOIEEE (Filets ou Ailes de Foulet a la Princiere). Choose six well-cleansed chickens, each one to weigh a pound and three-quarters to two pounds; remove the large fillets leaving the pinion on, with the bone kept rather long; lift off the minion fillets, also suppress the large fillets' skin and the thin skin covering the minions; dip the latter in egg-whites, then roll in very finely chopped pistachios, pre- viously run through a sieve; twist them around the finger to form a circle and place them in a buttered sautoir; cover with a sheet of but- tered paper and poach just when ready to serve only; this will take but five minutes on a moderate fire. Chop the surface of the large fillet without misshaping it whatever, season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, then cover over with chicken forcemeat and dredge or throw over FIG. 365. finely chopped truffles, lay these in a buttered sautoir, shaping them all alike, six with the pinions on the right and six with the pinions on the left, then cook in a slack oven. When done remove and run a ring cut from beef tongue a quarter of an inch thick on the pinion bone and decorate this also with a frill (No. 10). Dress crown-shaped filling in the interior with a garnishing composed of cocks' -combs and kidneys, also slices of foies-gras, the whole combined with supreme sauce (No. 547). Poach the minion fillets and dress them around, serving with a sauce-boatful of the supreme sauce. POULTRY. 591 (1853). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA SADI-OARNOT (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Sadi-Carnot). To be made with twelve breasts. Fry a chopped shallot in butter keeping it quite colorless and add to it two tablespoonfuls of finely minced truffles, three tablespoonfuls of minced fresh mushrooms and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; fry the whole for a few moments on the fire, then add a little chicken glaze (No. 398), season and let get partially cold before stirring in three raw egg-yolks. Eemove the skin and epidermis from the breasts and cut five gashes on the top of the minion fillets; introduce in each gash a thin round of truffle half an inch in diameter form the fillets into rings and lay them in a buttered sautoir, filling their interiors with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and on top of this set a five-eighths of an inch round of truffle. Split the large fillets through their sides and fill them with the above preparation, then range them in a sautoir with clarified butter and lemon juice; saute, drain, garnish with favor frills (No. 10) and dress in a circle on half heart-shaped croutons of bread-crumbs fried in butter, cover with a tomato sauce (No. 549) and Bearnaise sauce (No. 433), mixed and garnish around the large fillets with the minion fillets, glazing the slices of truffles with meat glaze. (1854). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA TOULOUSE (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Tou- louse). Pare twelve raw chicken fillets; take off the minion fillets, cut in the large fillet a deep gash lengthwise without separating the pieces, turn the meat over so that the gashed part is now out- side and fill in the inside with a well mixed quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and foies-gras that has been passed through a sieve half of each, having as much as would make an inch and a half diameter ball; envelop well this dressing in the flesh of the fillet, shaping them into pretty ovals and well rounded on the top (Fig. 364); put in more or less forcemeat, according to the size of the fillet so that when they are finished they look all alike; lay on top of each of these a small minion fillet streaked by cutting six incisions and placing in each one a thin slice of truffle proportioned to the size of the minion fillet. Cover the bottom of a sautoir with clarified butter, lay over the chicken fillets at equal distances apart, pour over more melted butter and cover with a strong buttered paper; cook them in a slow oven for twelve to fifteen minutes, drain, trim with favor frills (No. 10) and dress in a circle; pour into the center a Toulouse garnishing (No. 766). (1855). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA VALENQAY (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Val- Pare twelve raw chicken fillets without detaching the minion fillet; cut a gash down the whole length and in the middle of each fillet without separating the parts; turn the meat inside out fill the inside space with a preparation of chopped truffles fried in butter and thickened with meat glaze then allowed to cool off and mix with one egg-yolk. Dip each one of the fillets in veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with cream and when they are quite cold, immerse them in beaten eggs and roll in fresh white bread-crumbs; smooth them shapely with the blade of a knife. At the last moment range the fillets in a sautoir with clarified butter and brown them on both sides over a FlG - 366 - moderate fire; drain and trim with favor frills (No. 10). Dress in a circle filling the inside space with tomatoes prepared as follows: Cut medium-sized sound and peeled tomatoes into quarters, press out the juice and seeds, then fry them in butter seasoning with a little salt and sugar. Serve a half -glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira separately. (1856). CHICKEN FILLETS OR BREASTS A LA VALERRI (Filets ou Ailes de Poulet a la Valerri). Prepare twelve fillets by removing the thin skin covering them; remove the minion fillets to streak with red beef tongue; turn each one of these around a large Spanish olive, replacing its stone by quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), pushed through a cornet; on top of this forcemeat set a small truffle ball. Lay these in a buttered sautoir, cover with a sheet of buttered paper, and poach them in a slow oven, just when ready to use. Saute the large fillets lightly with butter and lemon juice, and lay them under a weight, then divide them in two through their entire thickness. Range half of them very closely FIG. 368. together, and pour over a layer of soubise (No. 723), having it a quarter of an inch thick, set the other twelve halves on top of these halves, and leave till cold, then pare them all evenly into half heart-shapes; dip each separate double piece in well reduced but partially cold 592 THE EPICUREAN. allemande sauce (No. 407), and let cool off again, then dip in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in clarified butter; drain, trim with favor frills (No. 10), and dress in a circle; fill up the center with mushrooms sauted in butter and fine herbs, pour over some half-glaze (No. 400) and Madeira, and set the minion fillets on top of these mushrooms. Serve separately a sauce-boat of half -glaze sauce (No. 413). (1857). CHICKEN A LA VILLEBOI (Poulet a la Villeroi). An entree of chicken a la Villeroi arranged and dressed as in Fig. 369 can be served at the most elegant dinners. This entree is dressed on a wooden foundation with a round and slightly conical support in the center, both being covered with cooked or noodle paste (No. 142). Cook about fifteen fine, turned, very white, even sized mushroom heads. Select three good, tender chickens, not too large, but quite fleshy; when well cleaned, truss and cover over with thin slices of fat pork and "poele 1 " them in some good stock (No. 12), keeping them quite rare; drain, untruss and cut each chicken into five pieces; first take the legs while still very hot, and quickly remove the large second joint bone; cut off the stump at two-thirds of its length and range them on a small baking tin, one beside the other, letting them cool off under a weight. Detach the upper part of the breasts from the bodies, suppress the breast bones, pare them into oblongs and also leave to cool. Remove the FIG. 369. skin from the fillets, pare them prettily, detaching the pinion bone and cutting away the flesh from around. Trim the legs the same shape as the fillets and imitate the minion bone by the shortened stump. Dip each one of these pieces separately into a well seasoned, succulent and thick tomato sauce (No. 549) and Villeroi sauce (No. 560) mixed; return them at once to the same tin they were taken from, and leave to cool for a couple of hours; now take up the pieces one by one, detach any surplus of sauce and roll them immediately in fresh white bread-crumbs, then dip them in beaten eggs and bread-crumb once more; shake them nicely without handling them too much, and place them in a frying basket (Fig. 121); fry in very hot fat till a good color is acquired, then drain and dress the legs and fillets against the support almost upright one piece slightly overlapping the other; on the summit of the support lay a bed of fried parsley and over this the breasts pyramidically arranged; set the mushroom heads in a row around the bottom of the dish, cover over with a little of the veloute and serve the entree at once. (1858). CHICKEN PILLETS OE BEEASTS AU SUPEEME (Filets on Ailes de Poulet au Supreme). Select six medium chickens of two pounds each, remove the large fillets, also their skin and epidermis; pare these into half hearts and range in a buttered sautoir; on top of the thickest part of these lay the minion fillet in a half circle after it has been scored; pour over butter and the juice of a lemon, cover with a buttered paper and cook in a hot oven. Set some superme sauce (No. 547) and chicken glaze (No. 389) in a sautoir and just when ready to serve stir in fresh butter^ FIG. 370. cream and six ounces of peeled and sliced truffles. Trim all the fillets with favor frills (No. 10) and dress them in a circle filling in the inside with the sliced truffles and sauce. Serve a sauce-boat of supreme sauce (No. 547) at the same time. (1859). CHICKEN FILLETS OE BEEASTS, MEXICAN STYLE, IN PAPEES (Filets on Ailes de Poulet a la Mexicaine en Papillotes). Kemove the fillets from six fine medium-sized chickens; pare them leaving on the pinions and skin, then saut6 them, and when done wrap them up in a matignon with white wine (No. 406), adding peeled tomatoes cut in eight pieces, fried in butter and seasoned with salt, pepper, and POULTRY. 593 Chopped parsley. Prepare some sheets of paper heart-shaped and well oiled; place on one half a little of the cooked matignon, the tomatoes, some risot (No. 739) &nd fried sweet peppers; lay one of the breasts or fillets on top and cover with more of the ingredients, then close by pinching the two edges together all around and lay them on a buttered dish; place in a hot oven to heat the con- tents and color the paper; serve immediately. (1860), CHICKEN PILLETS OE BEEASTS WITH CUCUMBERS (Filets on Ailes de Poulet aux Concombres). Obtain some very small clean chickens, raise the fillets and remove the minion fillets; pare the large fillets, suppress the skin and lard the tops with fine lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52) of larding pork, season and range them in a sautoir with but- ter, place this on a hot fire and two minutes later, remove and put them into a hot oven to let cook rare, but of a fine color, then glaze over with a brush, remove, drain and garnish the ends with favor frills (No. 10). Dress into the middle of a hot dish a garnishing of pur6e of cucum- bers (No. 714), smooth the surface with the blade of a knife and dress the chicken fillets on the outside, pouring some supreme sauce (No. 547) around and serving more in a sauce boat. (1861). CHICKEN PEIOASSEE (Fricassee de Poulet), Take a well cleansed chicken of two and a half to three pounds; cut the two fillets, the legs, the breast in one, back in two and two wings retaining all the skin. Fill a saucepan with cold water, and soak the pieces of chicken in it for one hour, then throw this off and replace it by one quart of cold water adding to it two medium onions, one containing a clove, a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf and thyme, salt and pepper. Cook the chickens, skim and let simmer gently, be sure that the chicken is cooked before taking them out, and when done, drain on a colander, then lay the pieces in cold water; make a roux with three ounces of butter and three ounces of flour, cook for a few moments without browning, then put in the chicken stock and the liquid from a pound of mushroom heads, as soon as the sauce comes to a boil, remove it to the corner of the range for half an hour. Pare and clean the pieces of chicken carefully, lay them in a low saucepan, remove all the fat from the sauce and pour it through a wire sieve on the chicken, cover and heat it over a slow fire, thicken with four egg-yolks and one ounce of butter by first diluting the yolks with a little of the sance and increasing gradually until half the sauce is combined with the eggs, then stir it all together, set it on the fire and roll the pieces in; after the sauce thickens, strain it again through a tammy, add the mushrooms to the sauce. Dress the chicken by forming a high square with the two back pieces and the two wings, in the center of the dish; place the two fillets and two legs against the square and the piece of breast on top, cover with the sauce, putting the mushrooms on the four corners, pour the sauce over and garnish around with small round rice croquettes made with almond milk. (1862). CHICKEN FKIOASSEE A LA BOUOHAED (Fricasse'e de Poulet a la Bouchard), Singe and cut up the chickens as for a plain fricassee (No. 1861), fry them without letting attain a color in some butter, and add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, mix well and pour in a pint of chablis wine, some broth (No. 194a), and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); cook very slowly and when done, take out the pieces of chicken; thicken the sauce with four egg-yolks and a little butter, pass the sauce through a fcammy and just when ready to serve add two chopped blanched shallots; some tarragon leaves and chopped parsley. Pour this over the chicken, garnishing around with Villeroi oysters (No. 698), and mushroom heads fried in butter, then tossed in meat-glaze (No. 402), butter and lemon juice; serve immediately. (1863). CHICKEN PEICASSEE A LA CHEVALIEEE (Fricasse'e de Poulet a la Ohevaliere), After the chickens are singed, remove the pouch and raise the fillets whole, with the pinions; slide the blade of a keen, thin knife between the meat and skin covering the fillets, !ard them over with fine shreds of pork and lay them in a lightly buttered sauteing pan. Pare the minion fillets and lard them with either truffles or tongue, then shape them into rounds, two and a quarter inches in diameter; place them in a buttered sautoir on thin slices of fat pork. Cut up the remain- der of the chickens and cook them the same as for the plain chicken fricassee (No. 1861). Trim the 594 THE EPICTJK-EAN. legs and bread-crumb them. Prepare and cook a croustade the same width as the serving dish, having it three inches high, glaze the larded fillets; cook the minion fillets, and fry the legs to a nice golden color. Dress the backs and wings in the center of the croustade; cover lightly with allemande sauce (No. 407), then range the legs leaving them against the backs; place the larded fillets between these legs, and the minion fillets around; in each of the latter set a fine glazed truffle, then glaze the fillets. Serve with a veloute sauce (No. 415), thickened when ready, with egg-yolks, butter, and cream; heat well without boiling, and throw in some chopped mushrooms. (1864), CHICKEN FKIOASSEE A LA PAVOEITE (Fricassee de Poulet a la Favorite). Prepare and cut up the chickens the same as for the plain fricassee (No. 1861); soak the pieces for half an hour, then drain and return them to the saucepan to moisten with white broth (No. 194a): cook the chicken, drain it in a colander, and run the liquid through a napkin; put it back on the fire to reduce to half adding eight gills of veloute sauce (No. 415), then reduce once more until the sauce adheres to the spoon, afterward finish with egg-yolks and butter. Strain through a tammy, and keep hot in a bain-marie. Wash thoroughly the pieces of cooked chicken in cold water; pare nicely, and place them in the sauce; after they are well heated, dress and garnish around with a cluster of carrot balls half an inch in diameter, blanched and cooked in white stock (No. 194a) and a little sugar, also small white onions cooked in white broth. Decorate the outside with small flat egg-plant croquettes containing mushrooms and truffles, and use also trussed crawfish for the ornamentation. (1865). CHICKEN FKIOASSEE A LA LUCIUS (Fricassee de Poulet a la Lucius). Draw and singe a clean, white meat three pound chicken, cut it up into eight pieces and split the carcass in two, also the neck and legs, wash these pieces in tepid water, place them in a sauce- pan containing water to heat, simply to stiffen the meat, then drain, refresh and wipe well on a cloth. Boil half a pound of blanched rice in broth for twenty minutes, keeping it white and con- sistent; when ready pour it into a plain buttered border mold (Fig. 139), pressing it down well and keep it in a warm heater for eight minutes. Melt some butter in a saucepan, add to it the pieces of chicken with a garnished bouquet (No. 123), two quartered onions, salt and pepper corns, fry the chicken over a good fire without browning, dredge over a heaping spoonful of flour and continue cooking two minutes while stirring, take the saucepan from the fire, and pour in grad- ually some hot stock (No. 194a), stirring until it reaches boiling point; let cook for eight minutes on a moderate fire, then remove it to a slower fire to finish cooking the chicken; as fast as each of the pieces are done; the tenderest ones first, take them out, suppressing the legs and car- casses, then pare the remainder and lay them in another saucepan, strain the sauce, reduce it for a few moments to thicken, pour it over the chicken and finally finish the fricassee with a thickening of two raw egg-yolks, half a gill of cream and an ounce of butter divided in small pats; cook this thickening without letting it boil, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Dress the fricassee inside the rice border, unmold it on a hot dish, cover it moderately with the sauce and send the remainder to the table in a sauce-boat. (1866). CHICKEN FKIOASSEE A LA WALESKI (Fricassee de Poulet a la Waleski). Take three medium chickens each one to weigh two pound and a half; cut both up into seven pieces each, the two legs, two fillets, two from the back and one breast bone; steep them in cold water for an hour, then drain and range in a saucepan; moisten to cover with broth (No. 194a) adding a medium carrot cut in four, a middle-sized onion, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, one clove, and peppercorns; allow the chickens to cook for fifteen minutes, then drain and reserve the broth; refresh and sponge the pieces on a cloth, paring them neatly. Melt three ounces of butter in a saucepan, lay in the pieces of chicken and fry rapidly without browning; a few moments later cover with some clear veloute" sauce (No. 415), prepared with the chicken broth and a glassful of white wine; boil up this liquid once, then set the saucepan on one side of the fire to finish cooking the contents; when done, free the sauce of all its fat before straining it through a sieve into a sautoir, adding to it a few spoonfuls of mushroom broth. Reduce while stirring from the bottom of the sautoir until a thick, succulent sauce is obtained, then put in a thickening of six egg-yolks, and an ounce and a half of lobster butter (No. 580). Strain this through a tammy over the pieces of chicken, remaining in the saucepan. Just when serving squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Dress in a thin border of cream forcemeat (No. 75), decorated with truffles; surround this border with a circle of sauted sweet peppers (No. 2769), with mush- room heads on top, and a trussed crawfish between every one. Serve the surplus of sauce in a. sauce-boat. POULTRY. 595 (1867). CHICKEN PEICASSEE WITH CRUSTACEAN SAUCE (Fricassee de Poulet an Coulis de Crustace"s). Wash in plenty of water, then cook four dozen crawfish with white wine, an onion, parsley roots, thyme, bay leaf, a grain of pepper and salt; let cook over a brisk fire for five minutes, and after the first boil strain the broth through a fine sieve, then through a napkin; let it settle and pour the top off gently. Detach the tails from the crawfish bodies, pick out the meats, trim and keep them hot while covered. Chop up the tail parings and the claw meats, mix with an equal quantity of cooked chopped mushrooms, season and add a very thick bechamel (No. 409) reduced with a little chicken glaze (No. 398) so as to have a consistent preparation, then peason with a coffeespoon of prepared red paper (No. 168); keep this in a bain-marie. Fasten a fried bread sup- port on a dish. Put into a sautoir containing butter, two two-pound chickens each one divided into five pieces and parboiled in water, removing them at the first broil to drain, and fry in butter, keeping them white; season, dredge over a tablespoonful of flour for each chicken, moisten gradually with hot broth (No. 194a) and boil the liquid without ceasing to stir, letting it be in this state for eight to ten minutes; finish cooking the chickens over a slow fire. Use the crawfish hash to fill some hollow semicircular crusts; cover this with a layer of the reduced thick bechamel (No. 409) bestrew with grated parmesan and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123); when the chickens are ready dress them on the dish leaning against the prepared support intercalating them with the crawfish tails; reduce the sauce by incorporating into it a few spoonfuls of the crawfish liquor and thicken with four egg-yolks and half a gill of cream, finishing with red butter (No. 580). Strain some of this over the chickens and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat; surround the chickens with the filled crusts after they are baked and browned. (1868). CHICKEN FRICASSEE WITH CURRY (Fricassee de Poulet an Kari). Divide two small chickens of a pound and a half each after cleaning well into four distinct parts; pare them well. Put two or three spoonfuls of chopped onions in a saucepan and fry with butter till of a fine color; add the pieces of chicken, toss them for two minutes and season, sprink- ling two dessertspoonfuls of powdered curry over. Moisten to their height with stock (No. 194a), put in a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. Peel and chop up a small sour apple, add it to the chicken and let cook over a slow fire, taking out the fillets as soon as they are done; then remove the legs and place them in another saucepan with the fillets. Strain the sauce and reduce it with a few spoonfuls of good raw cream and as much mushroom broth; take it off the fire, thicken with three egg-yolks diluted with cream and a piece of butter divided into small pats. Dress the chickens, cover over with the sauce and serve a vegetable dishful of Indian rice. (1869). CHICKEN, MARINADE SAUCE-FRIED (Poulet Friteau a la Sauce Marinade). Cut off the stumps and pinions from two chickens each one a pound and a half in weight, singe, draw and free them well of their pin feathers, cut them both into five pieces, two legs, two wings and the breast, suppress the second joint bones from the legs and the wish bone from the breast. Lay the pieces in a vessel to season and marinate in oil and lemon juice with sliced onions and parsley leaves; a quarter of an hour before serving, drain off the chickens, wipe them nicely on a cloth, dip in cold milk, roll in flour and plunge one piece at the time in hot frying fat, observing that those taking the longest to cook must be the first ones to be put in; fry them to a nice color, but not too rapidly, as fast as one piece is done, take it out and drain it on a cloth, salt over and dress in a pyramid on a folded napkin. Send to the table accompanied by a sauce-boatful of marinade sauce (No. 496), or else a poivrade sauce (No. 522), or a green sauce (No. 473). (1870). CHICKEN, MEDIOIS-FRIED (Poulet Friteau Medicis). Lard two two and a half pound very white chickens with truffles after they have been singed, drawn and well cleaned. Braise them in a saucepan lined with bardes of fat pork and mois- tened with mirepoix stock (No. 419) and two gills of white wine, when done, lay them in an earthenware vessel and cover with their own strained broth, leaving them thus until thoroughly cold, then cut them up into ten medium-sized pieces each, making two of each fillet, two of each leg and two of the breastbone. Place these in a vessel with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, pepper and salt, leave them in this pickle for two hours. Heat about three pounds of good fresh lard, 59G TTIE EPICUREAN. when very hot, dip each separate piece of chicken in frying batter (No. 137), and then in the fat to fry to a fine color, having them thoroughly warmed throughout. Drain, salt over and dress in a pyramidical form on a dish covered with a folded napkin, garnishing the top with a bunch of fried parsley. Serve a cream bechamel sauce with chopped truffles (No. 411), separately. (1871). GRENADES OF CHICKEN A LA RITTI (Grenades de Poulet a la Eitti). Pare some chicken fillets, remove the skin and lard with the smallest sized lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52), place them in a sautoir, the bottom covered with thin bardes of fat pork, keeping the pointed ends lying toward the center of the pan; moisten with mirepoix stock (No. 419) and mushroom liquor, then cook on a hot fire and glaze, drain and dress them on croutons the same size and shape. Put the minion fillets in a buttered sautoir after twisting them into lings, fill the centers through a cornet with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and on this lay a ball of truffle; cover with a sheet of buttered paper, poach in a slack oven. Dress the grenades in a circle and the minions around, fill the middle with some foies-gras, mixed with allemande sauce (No. 407), glaze the grenades with meat glaze (No. 402). (1872). JAMBALAIA OF CHICKEN (Jambalaia de Poulet). Cook a quarter of a pound of rice the same as explained below, having the grains swollen but not broken and keep it dry at the oven door. Cut three ounces of cooked lean ham in three- eighths inch dice, also six ounces of cooked chicken meat, suppressing all bones and skin and having them one size. Warm the ham in a saute-pan with butter, add to it the pieces of chicken to heat while tossing, season and sprinkle over lightly with prepared red pepper (No. 168), then put in the well drained rice, toss it with the meats and pour the whole into a vegetable dish. Indian Rice, which is generally served as a garnishing for chicken or veal is prepared with Indian rice, it having long, white and very perfect grains; plunge a sufficiency of this into a liberal supply of boiling water, after it has been washed and picked, and as soon as it ceases to crack between the teeth, drain it on a colander; wash it in tepid salted water, spread it on a large sieve covered with a white cloth and dry for a few moments at the oven door or else in a hot steamer. Dress on a vegetable dish, cover over and serve. This is the most simple and effectual method. (1873). CHICKENS LEGS A LA SAULNIERE-BIGARRURES (Bigarrures de Cuisses de Poulet a la Saulniere). Bone the legs of some young chickens leaving on only half of the drumstick, season with salt and pepper, and fill the insides with chicken forcemeat (No. 89), mixing in with it one-third of cooked forcemeat (No. 73), and some chopped parsley; lard those taken from the right with med- ium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), and stud those taken from the left with truffles, covering these with thin slices of fat pork. Cook them in two low saucepans lined with fat pork and moistened with a mirepoix and white wine stock (No. 419); cover over with sheets of buttered paper, and cook in the oven. Glaze those that are larded, and when done drain and decorate with paper frills (No. 10). Dress in a circle filling up the interior space with a financiere garnishing (No. 667). (1874). CHICKENS' LEGS, AMERICAN STYLE- DEVILED (Ouisses de Poulet a 1'Amencaine a la Diable). Broil slowly some chicken legs and when well done, dip them in English mustard diluted with mushroom catsup, salt, and cayenne, then roll them in bread-crumbs, and broil again over a slow fire until they acquire a fine color. Dress, pour lightly melted maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581) over, or else a deviled sauce (No. 459) into the bottom of the dish. (1875). CHICKENS' LEGS AS OUTLETS WITH OLIVES (Cuisses de Poulet en Cotelettes aux Olives). Take the legs of six young chickens; bone them keeping on part of the drumsticks, but do not open; suppress well the sinews, season and stuff with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and fine herbs (No. 385); sew them up with coarse thread, leaving them in their original shape, range them in a flat saucepan one beside the other, salt over lightly, moisten just to cover with stock (No. 194a) and lay a piece of buttered paper on top, then cook the whole very slowly. Drain off the legs, and let cool between two boards or in the press (Fig. 71), pressing them down lightly; unsew and pare all around and on the ends, season and then dip in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs POULTRY. 597 Kange them one beside the other in a flat sauce-pan with melted butter, return them to a hot fire and brown slightly on one side, then reverse them and brown them on the other. Drain and trim each drumstick with a small paper frill (No. 10); dress in a circle on a hot dish and fill the inside with an olive garnishing (No. 695), made with either verdal or Lucques olives, and serve with a sauce-boat of Colbert sauce (No. 451). (1876). CHICKENS' LEGS IN PAPERS (Ouisses de Poulets en Papillotes). Take out the bones from some chicken legs, leaving on half the drumstick, season, lay them in a sautoir containing bardes of fat pork and moistened with a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 41 9); when they are well cooked set them under the pressure of a light weight; pare all around, also the ends. Cut some sheets of strong paper into heart-shapes, oil them over and lay a very thin slice of fat fresh pork on top of one of the halves, cover this with a layer of reduced duxelle (No. 385) and a chicken leg above; cover with more of the duxelle and a very thin slice of cooked ham; enclose them in the papers, plaiting it all around, lay these on a silver dish, place them in a slack oven and when the papers have acquired a fine color and are considerably swollen, serve them im- mediately. (1877). CHICKENS' LEGS, PUREE OP JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES-FRIED (Cuisses de Poulets Frites k la Puree de Topinambours). Remove the first joint bones, season and fry the legs in butter with finely shredded carrots, onions and leeks, adding parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Moisten with stock (No. 194a) and white wine and let simmer slowly until thoroughly done, then turn them on a deep dish, covering them entirely with their stock and leave them to cool off in this; dip each piece in beaten eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color. Dress them in a circle over a puree of Jerusalem artichokes (No. 704) serving with a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413). (1878). PILAU OF CHICKENS (Pilau de Poulets). Cut up in four pieces each, two small chickens weighing no more than a pound and threer quarters apiece, obtaining two legs, two breasts, fry them for a few moments in butter, then moisten to their height with stock (No. 194a), adding a bunch of parsley garnished with aromatics, and seasoning with salt, pepper, and spices; cook the whole slowly, being most particular to re- move the tenderest pieces as rapidly as they are done and transfer them into another saucepan; strain the stock, remove its fat, and pour the liquid over the meats with four gills of boiling stock added, and then throw in half a pint of Carolina rice for every quart of broth, and a little powdered saffron; cook the rice for ten minutes on a good fire then withdraw it to the corner of the stove to continue cooking for ten minutes longer; the rice should now be dry and tender; finish by taking it off the fire, and incorporating into it two ounces of fresh butter divided in small pats. Dress the stew in a deep dish or else a vegetable dish. (1879). CHICKENS A LA CHAMPIONNE ROASTED (Poulets Rotis a la Championne). Select two very fleshy chickens of two pounds each; singe, draw and clean them, picking out all the pin feathers; truss them as for an entree, explained in the Elementary Methods (No. 178); cover the breasts with dry mirepoix (No. 419) and wrap up in a thin slice of fat pork; roast them on a spit before a slow but well-regulated fire, basting over frequently. Cut up quite fine one pound of cooked and peeled mushrooms; combine them with reduced bechamel sauce (No. 409) and finish with a little paprika and melted meat glaze (No. 402); with this preparation fill some hollow, round or semi-circular crusts (No. 52), smooth the surfaces and bestrew the tops with parmesan, then glaze them in a brisk oven or under a salamander (Fig. 123). As soon as the chickens are taken from the spit, unwrap and cut them up into five pieces each, suppressing the drumsticks; range them inside a cooked paste border (No. 10) fastened on at some distance from the edge of the dish as shown in Fig. 3; around this border lay the garnished crusts and cover the chickens lightly with a little tomato sauce (No. 549) sending a sauce-boat of the same to the table to be handed round the same time as the chicken. (1880). CHICKENS A L'HOTELIERE ROASTED (Poulets Rotis k 1'Hoteliere). Peel twenty medium fresh mushroom heads, empty out the insides and stuff them as explained in No. 650. Koast two tender chickens on the spit before a good fire, basting them over with butter. Chop up the mushroom ends and put them in a saucepan with thyme and bay leaf, minced 598 THE EPICURE shallots, two gills of white wine and two gills of gravy (No. 404); cover the pan and cook over a slow fire for ten minutes, then strain the liquid through a sieve and reduce it to the consistency of a half-glaze, adding four tablespoorifuls of melted glaze (No. 402) and two of Madeira wine; boil up the sauce for two minutes and remove it on one side to finish with butter. Salt and untruss the chickens, cut each one into five pieces and dress them pyramidically on a dish; surround with the stuffed mushrooms and pour the sauce over the chickens. (1881). CHICKEN IS THE SAUCEPAN-BOASTED (Poulet Eoti a la Casserole). Brown a fine, small, whole chicken trussed for roasting (No. 179) in any kind of earthen sauce- pan with a little butter. After the chicken has attained a light golden color, moisten it with a spoonful of clear gravy (No. 404) and half a glassful of white wine; cover over and let the liquid fall to a half- glaze. When ready to serve dish up the chicken after untrussing it. A few small whole onions may be added as a garnishing after blanching them in boiling water and then frying them. Cover the whole with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413). (1882). CHICKENS WITH OYSTEE SAUCE (Poulets a la Sauce aux Huitres). Blanch four dozen medium-sized oysters in their own liquor. Bard two small chickens weigh- ing a pound and a half each, after having them singed and trussed; run them one at the time on a slender spit, fasten well by tying the legs with twine and roast in front of a good fire basting over with melted butter; untruss, untie and cut each one either in four or five parts, pare the pieces, dress them pyramid form on a dish and cover with veloute sauce (No. 415), reduced with the oyster liquor and then with fresh cream, buttering the sauce well when off of the fire, add to it the oysters, warm them, and pour the whole over the chickens besprinkling the top with chopped parsley. (1883). CHICKENS, TOMATO CONDE SAUOE-STUITED (Poulets Parcis a la Sauce Tomate Cond6). Roast some chickens, when cooked and cold, remove the breast meat, carefully leaving the other part of the chicken intact, cut these breasts into dice, also half as much mush- rooms as there is chicken and half as many truffles as mushrooms, all cut in three- sixteenths of an inch squares. Put this salpicon into a bechamel sauce (No. 409) , well reduced with the mushroom broth, then use it to replace the breasts in the chickens, rounding it well on the top; cover the whole with bechamel sauce (No. 409), besprinkle with bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan cheese, pour on some clarified butter and set the chickens in a slack oven to brown slightly. Dress them on a garnishing of noodles sauted in butter (No. 2972), and well browned, and serve at the same time a sauce-boat of clear tomato conde sauce (No. 550). (1884). CHICKENS A LA BOUEGUIGNONNE-SAUTED (Poulets Saut6s a la Bourguignonne). Clean and singe two small chickens, then cut them up into five parts; range these in a sautoir with melted butter and oil, some shallots and mushroom peelings; season and fry to a good color on both sides; finish to cook in a slow oven being careful to withdraw the fillets and breasts as quickly as they are done, take out all the pieces from the sautoir, unglaze its bottom with a gill of Madeira and a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), strain and reduce by incorporating into it slowly two gills of Burgundy wine, previously boiled in a red copper untinned pan with aromatics and mushroom peelings. When the sauce becomes succulent, pour it over the dressed chickens and surround them with a circle of round, flat croutons of bread fried in butter and having one side covered with a layer of baking forcemeat (No. 81), glazed over with a brush and kept warm at the oven door. (1885). CHICKENS A LA D'ANTIN-SAUTED (Poulets Sautes a la d'Antin). Prepare two small chickens of two pounds each, by cutting each one into five parts and toss- ing them in a sautoir with clarified butter over a moderate fire; cook when needed four artichoke bottoms, drain and mince, then put them in with the chicken, also two chopped, blanched shallots, two ounces of finely shredded cooked ham and some minced truffles and mushrooms. Pour off the fat and replace it by veloute" sauce (No. 415) and meat glaze (No. 402), adding chervil, chives and a little finely cut up tarragon leaves, white wine and Madeira, reduce to a proper degree, then dress the chickens and cover with a part of the sauce, trim the dpumsticks with paper frills (No. 10) and serve the remainder of the sauce separately. POULTRY. 599 (1886). CHICKENS A LA DIVA-SAUTED (Poulets Sautes a la Diva). Choose good, medium-sized chickens of about two pounds each; draw, singe, and suppress well all the adhering feathers; detach the legs and wings leaving on the pinions and sufficient meat on thb breast bones so that they are of the same size as the other four pieces. Put some butter to melt in a sautoir, and when a light brown, lay in the pieces of chicken, seasoning with salt, pepper, and powdered sweet peppers: toss without browning, and moisten with about a gill of veal blond (No. 423) to detach the glaze, and then finish cooking the chickens, moistening as quickly as the stock reduces, and when sufficiently done, dress. Add to the sauce some bechamel (No. 409) and tomato sauce (No. 549), a little tarragon vinegar, and some chopped, blanched shallot; just when ready to serve, thicken with egg-yolks, and butter; strain through a tammy, and pour it over the chickens, bestrewing the top with very green chopped parsley; garnish around with small flat chicken cro- quettes (No. 877), an inch and a quarter in diameter by half an inch in thickness, and between each of these lay a bordelaise crawfish (No. 1008), placing a channeled mushroom (No. 118) on top of every croquette. (1887). CHICKEN A LA DODDS-SAUTED (Poulet Saute a la Dodds). Cut up the chicken as explained for sauteing chicken (No. 1906), and put the pieces in a sau- toir with four ounces of butter, cook without browning, and add four ounces of small squares of onions; place it on the fire for a few seconds to cook the onions without letting attain color; then add two teaspoonf uls of curry, and two tablespoonf uls of flour; season with salt and pepper, moisten with a pint and a half of stock (No. 194a), and let boil and simmer quite slowly; when done, drain, pare well the pieces, and place them in a saucepan. Strain the sauce and reduce it with some good cream; pour this over the chicken. At the first boil dress in the shape of a pyramid and cover with a part of the sauce, reserving the remainder for the sauce-boat. Boil some rice in water for ten minutes, drain and press it into a buttered mold furnished with a cover; place it in a slack oven for fifteen minutes, and just when ready to serve, unmold it on a dish, and send it to the table with the chicken. (1888). CHICKENS A LA DUMAS-SAUTED (Poulets Saute* a la Dumas), Cut three chickens into five pieces each, having two legs, two wings and one breastbone piece; season with salt and pepper arid toss them in butter with three small chopped shallots; remove the wings and breasts as rapidly as they are cooked and finish the legs, which take longer. Pare all the pieces and return them to a sautoir on the fire with a clear top part of the butter and three- quarters of a pound of minced mushrooms, pour over a few spoonfuls of thin bechamel (No. 409), roll them in the sauce without allowing it to boil. Detach the glaze from the other sautoir with a little Madeira, and add it to the sauce. Blanch three-quarters of a pound of rice, drain and place it in a saucepan and moisten it to three times its height, meaning if there be two inches high of rice, put in six inches high of unskimmed broth (No.l94a); boil, cover the saucepan and finish in the oven; it will take about twenty minutes. When the rice is sufficiently done, add to it three- quarters of a pound of very red beef tongue cut in small three-sixteenths of an inch squares, also three ounces of butter and the same quantity of grated parmesan cheese, a teaspoonful of pow- dered sweet peppers and a bit of cayenne pepper. Fill a plain buttered border mold (Fig. 139) with this prepared rice, keep it warm and when ready to serve invert it on a dish; dress the chickens pyramid-form in the center and cover the whole with the sauce thickened with egg-yolks, cream and butter, finishing with a pinch of prepared red pepper (No. 168). Garnish around with breaded and fried spinal marrow of veal, and send a sauce-boat of the same sauce to the table with the chicken. (1889). CHICKENS A LA FINNOISE SAUTED (Poulets Sautes a la Finnoise). Prepare and cook three chickens the same as for the chicken hunter's style (No. 1903); when three-quarters done, put in three ounces of chopped and blanched onion, and three ounces of small squares of ham, moisten with half a pint of stock (No. 194a) in order to detach the glaze and finish cooking the chickens; in case this moisture should be found insufficient, add a little more stock to it; season with sweet Spanish peppers, salt and paprika. Just when ready to serve pour in a pint and a half of veloute (No. 415) and half a pint of cream; reduce slowly until the chicken is thoroughly cooked, thicken with egg-yolks, cream, fresh butter and lemon juice. Dress the chickens inside a border of rice boiled in stock (No. 194a) and finished with a little fine butter; strain the sauce through a tammy, pour it over the chickens and trim the wings and legs with paper frills (No. 10), or serve the chickens simply with a Finnoise sauce (No. 465). 600 THE EPICUREAN. (1890), CHICKENS 1 LA FLORENTINE SAUTED (Poulets Sautes a la Plorentine), Cut up three one and a half pound chickens in four pieces each, season with salt, pepper, ground cloves and a teaspoonful of powdered sweet Spanish peppers; saute them in half oil and half butter, and add six ounces of raw, unsmoked ham cut in quarter inch dice; turn over to color evenly and keep sauteing on the fire, or else set the pan in a slow oven and when done drain off the pieces; add to these two gills of Malaga wine, a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), three table- spoonfuls of meat-glaze (No. 402), and six tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549), also three dozen small onions that have been blanched and cooked in white broth (No. 194a), six dozen carrot balls each five-eighths of an inch in diameter, blanched for ten minutes then finished with white broth and a little sugar; three dozen turned and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118) cooked in a little water, butter, salt, lemon juice and six ounces of minced truffles. Boil up the whole, dress the chicken with the garnishing around; reduce the sauce to perfection, pouring half of it over the chicken, and trim the legs and wings with frills (No. 10); strain the remainder of the sauce and serve it separately. (1891). CHICKENS A LA MADELEINE-SAUTED (Poulets Sautes a la Madeleine). Cut in quarters two small one and three-quarter pound chickens after cleaning them well; season with salt, pepper, paprika, and sweet Spanish peppers; put them into a liberally buttered sautoir, and when they commence to brown add half a pound of bacon cut up in quarter inch squares, having it previously blanched, four ounces of carrots and the same quantity of turnips cut in three-sixteenth inch squares and blanched separately, four ounces of onions in one-eighth inch squares also blanched, and a small garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123). Moisten with a little stock (No. 194a) and velout6 (No. 415), cover the sautoir and finish cooking in a slack oven until cooked; when ready to serve thicken the sauce with egg-yolks, cream, butter and lemon juice; pour this over the chickens trim the handle bones and serve. (1892), CHICKENS A LA MARCEL-SAUTED (Poulets Sautes a la Marcel). Prepare a sufficient number of chickens the same as for sauteing (No. 1906); season with salt and pepper; pour some oil into a sautoir and when very hot add the pieces of chicken and saut6 them colorless; when nearly done put in one small chopped up shallot for every chicken, also a clove of garlic. Scoop out some potatoes olive-shaped, with a large oval vegetable spoon; cook them slowly in butter as well as some small artichoke bottoms after having them blanched, then finish cooking in butter; dress the chickens, garnish the artichoke bottoms with a consistent, mellow chestnut puree (No. 712) pushed through a pocket, and lay on top of this medium-sized channeled and glazed mushroom heads (No. 118); range these around the chicken and the potato olives betweeu every one; trim the handles with frills (No. 10) and serve with a separate Colbert sauce (No. 451;, (1893). CHICKENS A LA MAEENGO-SAUTED (Poulets Saute* a la Marengo). Take two chickens and prepare them exactly as for the sauted chickens (No. 1906); heat somfe, oil in a sautoir, range in the pieces one beside the other, and set it on a brisk fire tossing them until they are of a fine color, then add a clove of crushed and chopped garlic and some mignonette. Just when prepared to serve drain off three quarters of the fat and replace it by half a pint of white wine, detaching the glaze from the pan, then add a pound of mushroom buttons, and four ounces of thickly sliced truffles, espagnole sauce (No. 414), a little meat-glaze (No. 402), a little fine tomato pur4e (No. 730) and lemon-juice. Dress the chickens in a pyramid form, cover over with the garnishing and trim the drumsticks and pinions with paper frills (No. 10); decorate the edges of the dish with egg-yolks fried in a small frying pan with a little oil, some half-heart small bread croutons and middling-sized trussed crawfish. (1894), CHICKENS A LA MARYLAND-SAUTED (Poulets Sautes a la Maryland). For this dish choose small one pound chickens, split them open through the back, pare nicely (Fig. 353) and season, rub over with flour, then immerse in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs. Heat some clarified butter in a sautoir. fry the chickens in it very slowly to cook and attain a fine color, then finish cooking them in a slack oven for ten minutes. Dress the chickens on a be'chamel sauce (No. 409), reduced with cream, and garnish the top with small corn fritters (No. 1349) and slices of broiled bacon, decorate the legs with paper frills (No. 10). POULTRY. 601 (1895). CHICKENS A LA MONTESQUIEU-SAUTED (Poulets SautSs a la Montesquieu). By observing the drawing for this entree the elegance of this new style of dressing can easily be perceived. On an entree dish one inch from the edge fasten a standing openwork border made of cooked paste (Fig. 3), spreading it out slightly; brush this over with egg-yolks and dry it in the air. In the center of this border, fasten a wooden bottom to be covered with the same paste rolled out very thin. Singe three clean chickens, detach the legs, leaving on as much skin as possible, then lift off the large fillets with the pinions leaving the minion fillets adhere to the breasts, remove the skin from four of the large fillets, pare and lard with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52), range them in a sautoir lined with fat pork, salt and pour butter over. Detach the minion fillets from the breasts, trim four of them, cut five gashes on their top, into these place rounds of truffles, FIG. 372. laying them in a buttered sautoir. Bone the legs, pare the meats evenly, salt and stuff them with a rather firm quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) into which mix some truffled Duxelle (No. 385); sew them up and range them in a sautoir, covering over with fat pork and basting with some stock (No. 194a); cook very slowly, then drain and let to get cold under the pressure of a light weight. With the remaining large fillets and the minion fillets prepare a little cream force- meat (No. 75) and with it fill a small, plain pyramidical mold flat on top; poach this in a bain- marie for ten minutes; cut the stuffed legs in two and return them to the sautoir with their stock reduced to a half-glaze, heat up slowly while basting at the oven door; glaze the larded fillets in a hot oven and poach the streaked minion fillets.- At the last moment unmold the crouton of force- meat on the paste-covered dish; dress the legs around, one overlapping the other, pour over a little good reduced veloute" sauce (No. 415), and then range the four large fillets intercalating them with the streaked fillets; on top of the pyramid insert a small skewer garnished with truffles (Fig. 11). Surround the border with a chain of round, peeled truffles cooked just when needed with glaze (No. 402) and Madeira and send with the entree a sauce boatful of veloute sauce reduced with the truffle broth. (1896). CHICKENS A LA NANTAISE-SAUTED (Poulets Sautes & la Nantaise). Prepare three chickens the same as for hunter's style (No. 1903,) saute" them in butter without browning and remove each piece as fast as cooked; drain off the grease, detach the glaze with a little mushroom broth and Madeira wine, add some bechamel and cream (No. 411) and let simmer slowly, pouring in a little more cream if necessary; strain the sauce and keep it boiling hot. Make a croquette preparation with artichoke bottoms and cooked lean ham, the former cut in three-sixteenth inch squares and the latter in one-eighth pieces; mingle with some thick cold bechamel (No. 409) and form it into pear-shaped croquettes, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color in clean, white, and very hot frying fat. Fry some shrimps in butter, season with salt, pepper, fine herbs and lemon juice. Dress the chickens, pass the sauce through a tammy and pour part of it over the chickens; dress the shrimps in clusters and artichoke bottom croquettes between each; serve the rest of the sauce separately. (1897). CHICKENS A LA PAKMENTIER SAUTED (Poulets Sautes a la Parmentier). Draw and singe three two pounds chickens, clean them well, suppressing all the pin feathers, cut them up in to five pieces, namely: two legs, two wings and a breastbone piece; saute in butter and when three-quarters done add potatoes cut cylindrical shape an inch in diameter then sliced 602 THE EPICUREAN. three-eights of an inch thick, or else cut in five-eighths squares; cook them partially in a frying pan with clarified butter. Finish cooking the chicken and potatoes together in the oven, being careful to remove the breasts as soon as they are done. Dress the chickens on a dish with the potatoes around, detach the glaze from the sautoir with a little clear gravy (No. 404), Madeira an^ half-glaze sauce (No. 413), reduce the liquid for two minutes, pass through a tammy and pour it over the chickens. (1898). CHICKENS A LA POKTUGAISE-SAUTED (Poulets Saut6s k la Portugaise). Have three chickens prepared the same as for hunter's style (No. 1903), saute them in half oil and half butter, season with salt and pepper, and when they are three-quarters done add three pounds of peeled tomatoes, halved through the center and the seeds and juice pressed out, a little finely cut up chives and three tablespoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402); boil and simmer until thor- oughly cooked. Prepare eighteen small very sound halved tomatoes; press lightly to extract the juice and fill them with a dressing prepared as follows: Put four ounces of bread-crumbs into a bowl with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, the chopped livers of three chickens, salt, pepper and nutmeg; mix the whole well together and fill each half tomato with some of this; besprinkle with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, and lay a small piece of butter on top of every one, set them in a hot oven and when nicely browned take out and dress in a circle on a dish with the chickens in the center, dredge over with chopped parsley and decorate the leg and wing bones with paper frills (No. 10). (1899). CHICKENS A LA SANFOKD-SAUTED (Poulets Sautes k la Sanford). Draw and singe small one pound and a quarter to one pound and a half chickens, divide them into four pieces, suppressing the legs above the joint, also the pinion of the wings; season with salt and pepper, and rub over with flour; they may now be if so desired dipped in eggs and in bread- crumbs; saute them slowly in clarified butter, and when well done drain and dress; pour a little good gravy (No. 404) in the dish and garnish around with hollow tartlets filled up withChantilly sauce a la Sanford (No. 588). (1900). CHICKENS A LA STANLEY-SAUTED (Poulets Sautes a la Stanley). Select three chickens each one weighing two pounds and a half; draw, singe, and detach the legs from the bodies, cut the carcasses on a level with the breasts and plunge these for a few moments in hot water to stiffen them, then dip them at once in cold water to refresh, lard them with lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52). With the meat taken from the legs and all the parings prepare a quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), finishing it with a dash of cayenne pepper, and two tablespoonfuls of bechamel (No. 409). Butter eighteen hollow tartlet molds with rounded bottoms, besprinkle the insides with finely chopped raw truffles, and fill them up with the prepared forcemeat; range these in a sautoir having boiling water around and reaching up to half their height, then poach the forcemeat slowly. Besides this, poach a layer of the same forcemeat on an entree dish and keep it warm. Cut the breasts of the chickens into three pieces, two fillets and the upper part of the breast; suppress the pinions. Mince ten ounces of white onions, and fry them slowly with butter in a sautoir, and when a good color, add the chickens; season with salt and pepper, and moisten with three gills of chicken broth prepared with the carcasses and bones of these chickens; cover the sautoir and allow the liquid to fall to a glaze, then begin the operation again until the fillets and breasts are thoroughly done; remove and transfer to a flat saucepan; increase the chicken stock with a few spoonfuls of good veloute (No. 415), reduce this sauce without ceasing to stir, incorporating more of the broth into it, and lastly a gill of good raw cream; the sauce should now be succulent and of a medium consistency; thicken it with a liaison of two egg-yolks, and cook this without boiling, then strain it through a tammy into another saucepan to work it vigorously while adding butter; finish with a dash of cayenne pepper, and the juice of a lemon. At the last moment dress the fillets in a circle on the bed of forcemeat laying on the dish; fill the center of this with cut up cooked mushrooms, and place the breast pieces on top; cover over with a part of the sauce, pouring the remainder into a sauce-boat to be served separately. Unmold the small force- meat molds, dress them around the fillets and glaze over with a brush, then serve. POULTRY. 603 (1901). CHICKENS A LA TUNISIAN-SAUTED (Pouiets Sautes a la Tunisienne). Divide two two-pound chickens into five pieces each, range the pieces in a sautoir with half melted butter and half oil, saute on a moderate fire and then in the oven. When they are three- quarters cooked, season and finish, being careful to remove the fillets and other tender pieces as quickly as they get done; drain them all off, leaving only the fat in the sautoir, then pare the chickens piece by piece and range them at once in a low saucepan with a little clear gravy (No. 404) and meat glaze (No. 402); keep this in a warm place; fry two ounces of finely chopped onions in butter left from the chickens with the gizzards cooked and cut in small squares, the chopped up livers and four ounces of cold tenderloin of beef or lamb cut also into one-eighth inch squares, add salt, pepper and bread-crumbs and cool this off before breaking in a few raw egg-yolks. Form this pre- paration into five-eighths inch diameter balls and put them in with the chicken, also a quart of veloute (No. 415) and two gills of Madeira wine, let simmer and reduce the sauce, skimming off the fat. Dress the chickens in a pyramid form with the quenelles around, and cover over with a part of the sauce passed through a tammy, serving the remainder separately. Trim the pinion bones and drumsticks with paper frills (No. 10) and lay trussed crawfish all around. (1902). CHICKENS POINT DU JOUE SAUTED (Pouiets Sauted au Point du Jour). Take two chickens and prepare them exactly as for bourguignonne (No. 1884), range them in a sautoir with melted butter. Fry colorless in butter, four ounces of chopped onions, dredge over with a tablespoonful of flour and make a small light roux; moisten this with red wine and stock (No. 194a) add a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and a few mushroom parings, despu- mate and reduce well the sauce. Saute the chickens in the butter and when well browned add two dozen small glazed onions, as many cooked mushroom heads and as many olives as mushrooms; strain the above sauce, pour it over the chickens and at the first boil, take out the chickens and dress. Reduce the sauce, add to it a handful of small nonpareil capers and pour it over the chickens, garnish around with tiny round crusts an inch and a half in diameter, toasted and covered on one side with anchovy butter (No. 569). (1903). CHICKENS, HUNTEE'S STYLE SAUTED (Pouiets Saute~s au Chasseur), Pick out three good chickens of about two and a half pounds each, draw, singe, then clean well and extract all the small pin feathers, cut them each up into seven pieces, the two wings, two legs, two pieces of the back and one of the breast bone; season with salt and pepper; melt six ounces of butter in a sautoir until it becomes a fine golden color, then lay in the pieces of chicken and toss them well; when they acquire a fine light brown on one side, turn them over to brown likewise on the other, cover the sautoir and finish cooking on a very slow fire or in the oven. When the meats are well done, drain off the butter and detach the glaze with a little stock (No. 194a). Fry colorless in butter a large pinch of chopped shallot, moisten with half a bottleful of red or white Burgundy wine, reduce to half, then add a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and simmer the whole for a few moments, season well, and when the sauce is properly reduced, return the chickens to it, put it back on the fire to remove at the first boil and add three ounces of cooked, lean hatn cut up in one-eighth of an inch squares, slice three onions across, having them two inches in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, remove the largest rings and roll them in flour, then fry a few at the time in plenty of fat; dress the chickens and use these rings to garnish the top, decorate the stumps of the legs and the pinions with paper frills (No. 10) and serve immediately. (1904). CHICKENS, PAEISIAN STYLE SAUTED (Pouiets Sautes k la Parisienne). Peel a few medium-sized truffles, lay them in a saucepan with a little salt and Madeira wine; cook them slightly; cook also as many mushrooms with a piece of butter and the juice of a lemon. Take two singed, drawn chickens, cut off the pinions and drumsticks, detach the thighs, and divide the breasts into three pieces, the two fillets and the upper breast part; cut the carcasses in two; crack the thigh bones in order to remove them, then place the thighs in a buttered flat saucepan; add the pinions, necks, and carcasses, season and cook on a moderate fire stirring them about at times; when partly done, add the fillets and upper breast parts, a bunch of parsley garnished with aromatic herbs, and a clove of garlic. After all the meats are well sized lift them out with a skimmer, and transfer to another saucepan, adding the truffles. Drain off the fat from the contents of the first saucepan, put in the truffle parings, and moisten with half a glassful of Madeira; boil up once or twice, then mix in double as much brown sauce (>04 THE EPICUREAN. (No. 414) and the truffle stock; let cook on a brisk fire for ten minutes; skim off the fat, and strain this sauce over the chickens; heat without allowing the liquid to boil. Fasten a small fried bread pyramid in the center of a dish, around it dress first the carcasses and pinions, then the thighs and breasts, placing the upper breast pieces on top; surround the chickens with the truffles and mushrooms, place a few cocks'-combs here and there, and free the sauce once more of its fat; pour it over the chicken and serve. (1905). CHICKENS, VIENNA STYLE-SAUTED (Poulets Sautes a la Viennoise). Select chickens that weigh from a pound to a pound and a quarter; bleed them just when ready to use, and pluck them quickly, then cut them up into four pieces, performing all this operation most speedily so that the chickens have no time to become cold; season over with a mixture of salt, pepper, thyme, powdered bay leaf, and lemon juice, then dip in flour, afterward in beaten eggs, and bread-crumb them only once. Cook in a sauteing pan with clarified butter over a very hot fire, drain, sponge, and season; dress them dry with a bunch of fried parsley on the top. (1906). SAUTE'D CHICKENS WITH HALF-GLAZE (Poulets Saute~s Demi-Glace). Sauted chickens are cooked various ways, either with a plain sauce or garnishing. How to Saute. Cut up two chickens each of two pound weight, having them well cleaned and singed, into seven pieces, viz: two legs, the breastbone, whole breasts, and the backbone, split in two, suppressing the pinions and giblets. Break the second joint bone of the legs and remove it. Heat some butter and oil in a sautoir, range the pieces of chicken in this, FIG. 373. FIG. 374. FIG. 375. and cook over a good but not too fierce fire, turning them over when of a nice color and well browned; remove the saucepan from off the fire and place it in the oven to finish cooking the chickens, taking out the pieces as fast as they are done, and when the legs are sufficiently cooked, drain the fat from the sautoir and return to it the pieces previously removed, then pour over a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), boil up for a minute, turning the pieces over so that they are thoroughly covered with the sauce on all sides. Dress these pieces of chicken on a dish, cover and keep hot. Pour a gill of Madeira or white wine, or else half of each, into the sautoir, reduce to half, add another half pint of half-glaze sauce and some mushroom and truffle parings; boil up for a minute while stirring incessantly with a spoon, strain the sauce through a fine strainer pour it over the chickens and serve. (1907). CHICKENS WITH TINE HERBS, TOMATO GARNISHING SAUTED (Poulets Saute* aux Pines Herbes, Garnis de Tomates). Fry chopped parsley and mushrooms and four blanched chopped shallots in butter; add two young two-pound chickens, both cut up into five pieces and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); season with salt and pepper; let all cook without adhering to the pan, skim off the fat and add a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), some clear gravy (No. 404) and the juice of a lemon. Put some butter and oil in a pan and when hot range one beside the other, some halved tomatoes having the seeds pressed out; season with salt and pepper, add a whole clove of garlic; fry these over a hot fire keeping them whole, and when their moisture has evaporated suppress the garlic and besprinkle with a little prepared red pepper (No. 168). Dress the chickens in a pyramid form, surround with the tomatoes and pour over the chicken gravy just as it is; dredge the surface with chopped parsley and serve with a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413) mixed with tomato sauce (No. 549). (1908). SPRING CHICKENS AS AN ENTREE, ROASTED-SMALL (Poulets Reine R6tis en Entree de Broche). Singe three small chickens weighing three-quarters of a pound each; draw, and clean well; truss as for an entree (No. 178), cover the breasts with a dry matignon with Madeira (No. 406) and tie on this thin slices of fat pork to keep it in place, tying the pork with three rows of string; run iron skewers lengthwise of the chickens and fasten them on the spit; three-quarters of an hour POULTRY. 605 before serving roast them in front of a bright firo basting over with butter and the fat from the drip- ping pan. When done, remove, unwrap and untruss. Invert on a dish a decorated and poached quenelle forcemeat (No. 80) border; lay in the center of the dish and on this a triangular center of fried bread covered with the same forcemeat, poach in the oven and range the chickens in a trian- gle on this border, leaning them up against the fried bread center. Dress between each one small clusters of round and peeled truffles rolled in meat glaze (No. 402), insert a garnished skewer in the bread center and the chickens. Pour some Madeira sauce (No. 492) reduced with truffle parings into the bottom of the dish after straining it through a tammy and serve more of it in a sauce-boat. (1909). CHICKEN A L'AQUITAINE-BEAISED (Poulet Brais6 a 1'Aquitaine). Draw and singe a fine corn-fed chicken weighing two and a half to three pounds; break the breastbone and fill the inside with a good dressing composed of beef marrow and raw ham com- bined with a handful of bread-crumbs, one egg-yolk, salt and nutmeg; sew up the stomach skin at the vent and truss with the legs inside; cover with slices of fat pork and then lay it in a narrow saucepan garnished with a bunch of parsley containing two cloves, some ham trimmings and an onion; moisten to half the height of the chicken with broth and allow the liquid to boil for a few moments, then set the saucepan on a slower fire to have it cook from half to three-quarters of an hour, basting it over frequently and letting it acquire a fine color. Strain off the stock, remove its fat and reduce it with espagnole sauce (No. 414) to the consistency of a half-glaze sauce. Infuse a piece of cinnamon in a gill of Madeira wine for fifteen minutes, strain it through a napkin and add it to the sauce. Place in a saucepan some round and well-pared slices of duck's liver, some cocks'- combs and kidneys, truffles and mushrooms; pour two-thirds of the above sauce over these, then untruss the chicken and dress it with the garnishing distributed around and the remainder of the sauce served in a separate sauce-boat. (1910). CHICKENS A LA LEONIA BOILED (Poulets Bouillis a la LSonia). Have very tender two-pound chickens, prepare and truss them as for an entree and range them in a saucepan with stock (No. 194a) to cook slowly; when done cut each chicken into five pieces; two legs, two wings, and one of the breast bones. Fry lightly in butter one shallot or half a medium onion, add four ounces of dried mushrooms, softened in water and chopped up finely, also a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, moisten with two gills of white wine and a pint of veloute sauce (No. 415); skim the top properly for fifteen to twenty minutes, then take out the parsley and pour in a pint of tomato sauce (No. 549) and a quarter of a pound of lean ham cut in three-sixteenths inch squares, let the sauce reduce until quite thick, add the pieces of chicken and when thoroughly warm, dress with the sauce, bestrewing the surface with chopped parsley. (1911). CHICKENS A LA STUYVESANT-POELE (Poulets Poffl& a la Stuyvesant). Have two good chickens weighing three pounds each; truss them for entree (No. 178) and cook them as explained under the heading to poeler (No. 12); when done properly, drain, untruss and cut them up into five or six pieces, dress them in a pyramid form on a layer of forcemeat three-quarters of an inch thick, poached on the same dish intended for the tabte, and surround with a circle of channeled mushrooms (No. 118), new carrots cut pear-shaped and blanched, then cooked in stock (No. 194a) with a little sugar; throw some very small cooked green peas over the whole, also a printaniere sauce (No. 546) and send to the table with some of the same sance served separately. (1912). CHICKENS, ENGLISH STYLE-BOILED (Poulets Bouillis a I'Anglaise). Prepare and truss some young two-pound chickens as for an entree (No. 178), boil them in stock (No. 194a) and drain when done ; dress and cover with a well buttered veloute sauce (No. 415), adding to it chopped parsley and lemon juice. (1913). CHICKEN WITH NOODLES, MACAEONI, EAVIOLES, OE MIEMIDONS-BEAISED (Poulet BraisS Soit aux Nouilles, Macaroni, Eavioles, ou Minnidons). Cook a chicken the same as with rice (No. 1914), roll out thin, some noodle paste bands (No. 142) two inches wide, cut it into fine shreds, plunge them into boiling, salted water and let cook for eight to ten minutes while covered; remove from the fire to drain on a sieve. Return these 606 THE EPICUREAN. noodles when dry to the saucepan and add two or three spoonfuls of good bechamel (No. 409), fresh butter, grated parmesan, a bit of nutmeg and salt and pepper, then dress on a hot dish; lay the chicken on top either whole or neatly cut up, pour over its liquid reduced to a half-glaze and thickened with a little tomato sauce (No. 549). This chicken can be served exactly the same only substituting macaroni (No. 2960), ravioles (No. 2976), or mirmidons (No. 689). (1914). CHICKEN WITH RICE-BRAISED (Poulet Braise au riz), Draw a chicken weighing three pounds, break the breastbone and fill the inside with a good dressing composed of beef marrow and raw ham, a handful of bread-crumbs, one egg-yolk, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Sew up the opening on top and truss with the legs inside; bard nicely, and lay it in a saucepan proportionate to its size, with the giblets, a garnished bunch of parsley, (No. 123) two cloves, and some ham parings. Moisten to about its height with stock (No. 194a) from the stock pot retaining all the fat and let boil up briskly for five to six minutes; remove the sauce- pan on one side of the range to finish boiling the liquid slowly for half to three-quarters of an hour. Place half a pound of well-washed and lightly blanched rice into another saucepan, wet it with two- thirds of the chicken broth after straining it through a fine sieve; in case there be not sufficient add a little broth; cook eighteen to twenty minutes on a hot fire; it should be softened and sufficiently dried; remove and finish by stirring in with a fork, a piece of butter, also a dash of nutmeg. Dress the rice on a dish, lay the chicken on top after draining and untrussing it, then serve. A small handful of grated parmesan cheese may be added to the rice if desired. Serve separately the remaining third of the stock reduced to a half -glaze. (1915). CHICKEN WITH TARRAGON-BRAISED (Poulet Brais6 a 1'Estragon). Choose a good three-pound, very white chicken; singe and draw it well; clean and free it from pin feathers; slip between the skin and breast meat a six ounce piece of butter mingling it with a heavy pinch of tarragon leaves; truss for an entree (No. 178), and cover with bards of fat pork; place it in a saucepan, also the neck, gizzard, and a few veal parings; moisten just sufficiently to cover the chicken having three-quarters of unskimmed broth (No. 194a), and one-quarter of white wine. Boil up this liquid, then remove the saucepan to a more moderate fire to allow the chicken to cook for forty-five to sixty minutes; when properly done, strain the liquid, free it of fat, and put this latter in with the chicken to keep it warm. Throw a few tarragon leaves into a little boiling water; take the saucepan from the fire at the first boil, and drain these leaves on a sieve. Clarify the chicken stock, reduce, and afterward add to it a piece of chicken glaze (No. 398), and the juice of one lemon; untruss the chicken, dress and decorate the breast with the blanched tarragon leaves; pour a part of the gravy around, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. (1916). CHICKENS WITH NEW VEGETABLES-SMALL-BEAISED (Petits Poulets Braise's aux Legumes Nouveaux). Procure two small tender chickens each one to weigh a pound and a half; singe and draw, truss for an entree (No. 178), then lay them in a saucepan with melted butter and fry over a slow fire for ten to twelve minutes, turning them around and not letting them brown; moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a); season and add a garnishing composed of small new blanched carrots and uncooked fresh green peas. Cover the saucepan and finish cooking the vegetables together with the chickens in a slack oven, occasionally adding a little hot stock (No. 194a). As soon as they are nicely done, drain, untruss and cut each one into four pieces; dress them in a pyramid form in the canter of a long dish. Strain the vegetables, thicken them with butter and add a pinch of sugar; range them around the pyramid of chickens, and on both ends of the dish lay a cluster of mushrooms and one of small glazed onions. (1917). DUCK A LA BRITANNIA-STUFFED (Canard Farci a la Britannia). Chop up a little green sage also one shallot, put them into a vessel and season with salt and pepper, add three hard-boiled egg-yolks, two djzen chestnuts and two tablespoonfuls of bread- crumbs; work the whole well together and with it fill the duck; truss and roast for three-quarters of an hour to one hour, then dress on a crouton of fried bread, pour over a poulette sauce (No. 527), and serve more in another sauce-boat. POULTRY. 607 (1918). DUCK A LA MATIQNON (Canard I la Matignon), Select a fine young duck and truss it after singeing and drawing. Cut up some carrots, bacon and onions into three-sixteenth inch squares; have also sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Put the bacon into a sautoir with two ounces of butter, fry, put in the onions without coloring them, then add the carrots, herbs and seasoning; moisten with Madeira wine and let fall to a glaze. When cold wrap the duck with this matignon in strong sheets of buttered paper, and roast either on the spit or in the oven from three-quarters of an hour to one hour. Unwrap and add the veg- , etables to half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and as much broth (No. 194a); boil and despum- ate for half an hour reducing to the consistency of a light sauce; strain this through a tammy (No. 159) and pour a part of it over the dressed duck, serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. (1919). DUCK A LA SLEBREOHT (Canard a la Siebrecht). Have a duck prepared and cooked the same as for roasting (No. 1921), dress and serve at the same time a sauce prepared as follows: Peel and cook some sour apples, and when done strain off the liquid part collecting the pulp in a vessel; mix into this a quarter as much grated fresh horse- radish and as much unsweetened well drained whipped cream; pour this sauce into a sauce-boat and serve it to accompany the duck. (1920). DUCK, AMERICAN STYLE-STUFFED (Canard Farci a 1'Amencaine). Singe, draw, and clean well a young duck, fill the insides with an American bread stuffing (No. 61); truss for roasting (No. 179) and roast it either on the spit or in the oven, three-quarters of an hour should be allowed. Dress it on a hot dish and pour a little gravy (No. 404) around, serving more in a separate sauce-boat. (1921). EOAST DUCK (Canard Eoti), Singe and draw a nice fat duck, chop up the liver with the same quantity of fresh fat pork, season and mix in a small finely chopped onion, some chopped parsley, a handful of bread- crumbs passed through a sieve and one egg-yolk; with this dressing stuff the duck's stomach; truss for roasting and cook either on the spit or in the oven for thirty to forty-five minutes, according to its size; baste over several times with butter, salt, and then take it from the spit; untruss and dress it on a dish garnishing around with slices of lemon. Send at the same time a sauce-boat of good gravy taken from the dripping pan, adding a little good stock (No. 194a) to it. This duck may be served plain without dressing if desired. (1922). DUCK WITH CEPES (Canard aux Oepes), Put a good clean, trussed duck into a saucepan with melted fat pork and two minced onions, fry, season and moisten with two to three gills of gravy (No. 404), then cook smothered, turning it over. When three-quarters cooked, add two to three dozen small fresh and peeled cepes free of stalks; finish cooking together with the duck, and when done, drain off the latter to untruss and dress on a dish with the cepes grouped around. Strain the gravy stock, thicken it with a little tomato sauce (No. 549) and pour it over the duck and garnishing, then serve. (1923). DUCK WITH OHEKKIES (Canard aux Cerises). Prepare a duck for an entree (No. 178) after cleaning and singeing it; lay it in a saucepan lined with slices of fat pork and moisten to half its height with a mirepoix white wine stock (No. 419) bring the liquid to a boil and finish cooking in a slow oven. Suppress the stones and stalks from one pound of sour cherries, set them into an untinned copper pan with a little water, lemon peel, cinnamon and sugar, and let boil for a few moments, in case there should be no fresh cherries at hand take candied cherries or dried black ones; these should be soaked for an hour in tepid water, drained and put into a pan with a little fresh water, lemon juice and its peel, also cinnamon. Boil the cherries, then keep it at the same degree of heat, but discontinue the boiling for half an hour; the liquid should now be entirely absorbed. After the duck is ready, remove it from the saucepan and untruss, strain its stock, free it of fat and let reduce with some good brown sauce (No. 414), and after it attains a sufficient succulence and is well-reduced, run it through a tammy over the cherries. Dress the duck in the center of a dish, pour half the gravy over, lay the cherries around and serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauce-boat. 608 TTTE EPICUREAN. (1924). DUCKS WITH OLIVES-BEAISED (Canards Braises aux Olives). Dress two ducks for entrees (No. 178) and lay them in a saucepan lined with bardes of fat pork; moisten to half their height with a mirepoix white wine stock (No. 419) and let boil, skim and simmer slowly for three-quarters to one hour. Stone about one pound of verdal olives, blanch, drain and add them to a brown sauce (No. 414) stirred in the mirepoix stock from the ducks after it has been strained and skimmed. Dress the ducks, cover lightly with sauce and garnish around with the olives. (1925). DUCKS WITH SAUEEKEAUT (Canards a la Choucroute). Dress two nice ducks; place them in a saucepan lined with bards of fat pork, some carrots and onions and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); moisten with stock (No.l94a), boil; skim and cook in a moderate oven for an hour to an hour a half. Put two pounds of well washed sauerkraut in a saucepan, add two onions, one containing two cloves, half a pound of sliced carrots, half a pound of blanched breast of bacon and half a pound of raw sausage (with or without garlic ac- cording to taste). Moisten with half broth and half fat taken from the stock-pot, boil and cook slowly for two hours, then drain and dish it around the duck with the sausage and bacon cut in slices dressed intercalated. Stir a poivrade sauce (No. 522) into the duck stock, pour a third of it over the ducks, serving the other two-thirds separately. (1926). DUCKS WITH TUENIPS (Canards aux NavetsX Truss a good, clean singed duck, lay it in a saucepan with melted fat pork or else lard, and fry very slowly until it acquires a fine color, then season and fry for a few moments longer, drain- ing it off afterward. Pour into the same fat a tablespoonful of flour, cook slowly together for a few moments, moistening gradually with a pint of stock (No.l94a); stir the sauce while it keeps boil ing for fifteen minutes on the side of the range. Skim off the fat, strain, and add this strained sauce to the duck with a garnishing of good, sound turnips cut in clove of garlic-shapes or else in balls^ and browned in a pan with butter, salt, and a little sugar; finish cooking the duck and turnips on a very slow fire, and when both are ready, lift out the bird, untruss, and dress it in the center of a dish, surrounding it with the turnips; strain the stock, skim and reduce, if there should be too much, and when correct, pour it over the duck, and serve. (1927). DUCKS' GIBLETS, HOUSEKEEPERS' STYLE (Abatis de Canards a la Menagere). After a duck has been drawn and singed, chop off the neck as far down as the back, and divide this neck into two or three pieces. Kemove the gall from the liver, being careful not to break it, and cut the liver in two or three pieces according to its size. Clean the wings well. Put four ounces of butter into a saucepan with the wings, the neck, and four ounces of lean salt pork blanched and cut in quarter inch squares; when these are nicely fried, add the liver, dredge in for every set of giblets a heaping tablespoonful of flour; stir well and let the flour cook for one second, then moisten with stock (No. 194a) and white wine; season with salt and pepper, and add one dozen small onions, and as many carrots cut pear-shape; let simmer for one hour and a half, remove the fat from the surface and put in a pint of uncooked green peas, then boil together for half an hour longer. When well done and properly seasoned, dress the meats in the middle of a dish with the vegetables arranged around, pour the sauce over and serve. (1928). DUCKS' PAUPIETTES WITH EISOT (Paupiettes de Canards au Eisot). Singe some young ducks; bone them entirely, removing all the meat and use this to make a well seasoned quenelle forcemeat into which mix finely cut up chives, truffles, and mushrooms, both chopped and three-sixteenth of an inch squares of cooked ham. With this forcemeat cover pieces of the auck : s skin cut in four or six parts, and roll them up into paupiettes, covering each one with a slice of fat pork; lay these in buttered paupiette rings, and place them in a sautoir covered with bardes of fat pork, and moisten with some good stock (No. 194a); cover over with a buttered paper, and then a round baking dish which will fit into the saucepan. Cook in a moderate oven, and when done and glazed to a fine color, take from the rings and dress them in a circle; garnish the center with risot (No. 739), and place a channeled mushroom head (No. 118) on top of each paupiette; serve with a sauce prepared as follows: Fry some minced onions in oil, drain, place it in a saucepan with lemon juice, mignonette, and Spanish sauce (No. 414), also the skimmed duck stock reduced to a half-glaze, and then strained through a tammy; serve it in a sauce-boat at the same time as the paupiettes. POULTRY. 609 (1929). MONGEEL DUOK-EOASTED AND STUFFED (Oarnard Mftis Farci et Eoti). A mongrel duck is the mixed breed of the wild and the domestic duck; it is generally larger than the domestic, and is usually served stuffed with a dressing made of soaked and pressed bread- crumbs, into which mingle chopped and blanched onions, chopped parsley, butter or chopped up marrow, salt pepper and nutmeg. Put the duck in a baking pan, cover with fat and roast in the oven, basting over at frequent intervals while cooking. A mongrel duck will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, and a goose from two and a half to three hours. Dress on a long dish; pour some clear gravy (No. 404) into the roasting pan, strain off the fat and reduce, pour a little of this over the bird and serve the remainder apart. (1930). DUCKLING A L'ANDALOUSE (Oaneton a 1'Andalouse). Procure a young duck; singe, draw and clean it well, then truss it as for an entree (No. 178); fry it very slowly with chopped up leaf lard and when it assumes a fine color, remove it from the saucepan, drain off the fat and cover the bottom with slices of ham, cut up carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and the duck; moisten with a little white wine and let this fall quickly to a glaze, then remoisten with a little stock (No. 194a), and let fall to a glaze twice more. After the duck is half cooked pour in two gills of Malaga wine and finish cooking slowly for about three-quarters of an hour; transfer the duck to another saucepan and keep it hot. Strain the stock and reduce it with the same amount of espagnole sauce (No. 414), to the consistency of a succulent sauce, and add to it a garnishing of small mushroom buttons, stoned Spanish olives, and small ball-shaped chicken quenelles; dress the duck, garnishing with part of the sauce, and serve the remainder separately. (1931). DUCKLINGS A LA BOEDELAISE-SAUTED (Oanetons Sautes a la Bordelaise). Cut up two ducklings into five pieces each, obtaining the two legs, the two wings and one piece from the breastbone; pare them nicely, leaving on the pinions, but suppressing the bone from the legs, saute in half clarified butter and half oil with the addition of four ounces of bacon cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares, the well-chopped livers, two teaspoonfuls of chopped shallot, the same of parsley and a soupcon of garlic; moisten with white wine, add half a pound of finely chopped cepes, four ounces of cooked ham cut in eighth of inch squares, espagnole sauce (No. 414), and some tomato puree (No. 730). Kemove at the first boil, dress the duck, pour the sauce over, garnish the extremities with paper frills (No. 10), and serve immediately. (1932). DUCKLING A LA BOUEGUIGNONNE-FEIED (Oaneton Frit a la Bourguignonne). Divide a young tender duck into five pieces; two legs, two wings and a breast. piece; pare nicely leaving the pinion bones on the wings and suppressing the leg bones; lay these pieces in a vessel to season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, chopped parsley, very little pulverized thyme and bay leaf and olive oil. Break up the carcass, fry it in butter, until well colored, adding mushroom parings, shallots, cloves, mignonette and nutmeg, then moisten with red wine and cook the whole slowly for half an hour, strain through a sieve and add this stock gradually to an espagnole sauce (No. 414), that is being reduced, and boil both together to the consistency of a light gravy. Koll the pieces of drained duck in flour, immerse them in eggs and fry in a very white frying fat over a moderate fire, allowing them to attain a fine golden brown while cooking, serve on a folded napkin with the sauce in a sauce-boat. (1933). DUCKLINGS A LA GEAINVILLE LAEDED (Oanetons Pique's a la Grainville). Have two ducklings, draw, singe and lard them with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), having previously plunged them in boiling water to render the meat firm. Line a saucepap. with some slices of ham, place the ducklings on top and set around carrots, onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf and thyme. Moisten to half their height with stock (No. 194a> and finish cooking, basting over frequently and glazing them in such a way that they attain a nice color; strain the stock free of its fat and reduce it to the consistency of a light syrup, mix in some blanched chopped up shallots, then remove from the fire and squeeze in the juice of two oranges. Dress and garnish around with slices of apple besprinkled with sugar and cooked in the oven; serve the sauce in a sauce boat separately. 610 THE EPICUREAN. (1934). DUCKLING A LA LYONNAISE (Oaneton a la Lyonnaise). Bone the breast of a large duckling, singed and well cleaned. Fill up the empty space with a liver baking forcemeat (No. 64), mixed with a few spoonfuls of lean cooked ham cut in dice-shapes, and bread-crumbs, sew the breast skin, truss the duck, wrap it up in larding pork and let braise in a narrow saucepan slightly moistened with some stock (No. 194a), and a little white wine. Drain the duck, untie and untruss, then dress it on a dish and surround with clusters of small glazed onions alternated with clusters of whole chestnuts, first cooked, then fallen to a glaze with a little gravy (No. 404). Strain the stock, remove its fat and reduce it to a half- glaze, thicken it with a little brown sauce (No. 414), and serve it separately. (1935), DUCKLINGS' HLLETS A LA MAOEDOINE OR GREEN PEAS (Pilots de Canetons a la Mace"doine ou aux petits pois). Singe, drain, and clean two young ducklings trussed for entree (No. 178); lay them in a sauce- pan lined with bardes of fat pork, moisten to half their height with good mirepoix wine stock (No. 419), let boil, then skim or simmer over a slow fire or in the oven until done, basting over at frequent intervals, and glazing to a fine color; it will take from three-quarters of an hour to one hour to cook them. When the ducks are thoroughly done, remove the fillets, strain, skim, and reduce the stock with espagnole sauce (No. 414), and when it becomes succulent and properly reduced, add it to the fillets with a piece of fine butter, rolling all the while to mix well. Dress the fillets in a circle, filling the inside with a macedoine of vegetables (No. 680), or small fresh peas with bacon prepared as follows: Have half a pound of bacon cut in half inch dice, unsalt by parboil- ing, drain and fry in butter with some small onions; moisten with brown sauce (No. 414), and some of the duck stock, let simmer until the onions and bacon are cooked, then throw in three pints of peas cooked French style (No. 2743). Mix all together and pour it into the center of the fillets, or else serve with a garnishing of cucumbers and Villeroi (No. 2732). (1936). DUCKLINGS' FILLETS A LA PERIGUEUX (Filets de Canetons a la Perigueux). This entre'e is to be dressed on a wooden foundation covered with cooked or noodle paste (No. 142). Have a small pyramidal mold, smooth and well rounded, and poach in it a loaf of chicken or veal forcemeat mingled with an equal quantity of liver baking forcemeat (No. 64); keep this mold in water until needed. Cook six ducklings in a good mirepoJx stock (No. 419), having only very little FIG. 376. liquid, and when done drain them out to untruss; detach the two fillets from each breast retaining both skin and wing bones, then pare. Quickly unmold the small forcemeat loaf on the center of the paste-covered foundation; mask it over with veloute (No. 415), reduced with the duck stock, and dress the fillets in a detruncated circle around, that is the six fillets on the right side are to incline one way, while the six on the left the other. On the summit of the support, in the hollow formed by the points of the fillets, dress a tasteful cluster of small, round truffles peeled and cooked when required with Madeira sauce, and glazed over with a brush. Lightly cover over the fillets and the bottom of the dish with more of the same sauce, and send a sauce-boatful of it at the same time as the fillets. (1937), DUCKLING A LA ROUENNAISE (Ganeton a la Rouennaise). Chop up half a pound of onions, blanch, then fry in butter; chop up also half a pound of chicken livers, and half a pound of leaf lard, each one separately; mingle all together, and when very hot thicken with six egg-yolks; add four ounces of bread-crumbs to this preparation, some chopped parsley, and finely cut up chives. Remove the breastbone from a duck and fill the empty POULTRY. 611 space with the above; truss for roasting and wrap it up in buttered paper, and roast for about half an hour. Serve it on a little clear gravy (No. 404), and have a sauce-boatful of the following sauce: Cut up two ounces of onions in one-eighth of an inch squares; cook them in salted water, drain and return them to a saucepan to moisten with red wine; when this has fallen to a glaze dilute it with espagnole sauce (No. 414). (1938). DUCKLING WITH GREEN MAYONNAISE AND PINE HERBS-BROILED AND ROASTED (Oaneton Grille et Roti a la Mayonnaise Verte aux Pines Herbes). Broiled, Split a singed, clean young duckling through the back, open it entirely and flatten well, trim neatly cutting off the legs at the first joint, salt and cover with oil; put it in a hinged double broiler, close and broil over a moderate even fire for about eighteen minutes; when done and of a fine color, dress on a hot dish, serve separately a sauce-boat of green mayonnaise fine herb sauce (No. 612). Roasted. After singing and drawing the duckling, truss it for roasting (No. 179) and cook either on the spit or in the oven for twenty-five to thirty-five minutes; baste frequently, salt only when cooked, then untruss and dress on a very hot dish, pour some clear gravy (No. 404), over and garnish around with water-cress seasoned with salt and vinegar. (1939). DUCKLING, PEASANT STYLE (Caneton a la Paysanne). Blanch and braise a small curled cabbage after cutting it in quarters and taking out the core, blanch separately some trimmed carrots and turnips, and celery root cut like cloves of garlic. Fry six ounces of half inch pieces of bacon in a saucepan, remove it with the skimmer leaving the fat in the sauce-pan, and in this fry very slowly a clean duckling trussed as for an entree (No. 178); when of a fine color moisten it with a little white wine and let this fall quickly to a glaze, then remoisten with a very little stock (No. 194a), and bring it twice to a glaze. After the duckling is partly cooked, put in the bacon and vegetables, moisten with broth to half the height finish cooking the whole very slowly on the fire or else in the oven. At the last moment untruss the duck and dress it on a dish, surrounding it with the garnishings and the quartered cabbage; lengthen the stock with a little more gravy, strain and thicken it with either some sauce or kneaded butter (No. 579); boil for two minutes, strain and pour it over the duck. (1940). SALMIS OF DUCKLING (Salmis de Oaneton). To Rocust. Select a young and very tender duck, prepare and truss it for roasting the same as explained in No. 179; it should be roasted on the spit or in the oven for fifteen to twenty-five minutes according to its size and the heat of the fire. A domestic duck ought to be served quite rare, and should be killed without bleeding. Dish it after untrussing and pour over a little of its gravy, garnish around with water-cress and serve the remainder of the gravy in a sauce- boat. For the Salmis. Cut the roasted duck up in two or three slices from each breast. Chop up the legs and carcasses and fry them in butter with an ounce of onions and as much shallot, both minced very finely; add the parings, pepper and mignonette, then moisten with red wine and some brown sauce (No. 414); reduce this to half, strain it through a tammy and pour it over the pieces of dressed duck; surround with heart-shaped bread croutons and serve very hot. (1941). DUCKLING, WITH BIGARADE SAUCE (Caneton a la Sauce Bigaraae). Make a small hash with some fresh pork, the duck's liver and two cooked chicken livers; mix into it a handful of white bread-crumbs, one egg-yolk and two or three spoonfuls of mushrooms, onions and parsley all minced very fine. With this preparation fill a duck's stomach; sew up the apertures, truss and roast it on the spit or in the oven, basting liberally with butter. Drain and dress it on a dish with some clear gravy (No. 404), and serve a bigarade sauce (No. 435) separately. (1942). DUCKLING, WITH JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES (Caneton aux Topinambours). Cook the duckling the same as for Andalouse (No. 1930), and when done dress and surround it with a garnishing of glazed and peeled Jerusalem artichokes; serve with a separate sauce- boat of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) worked with butter and finished with parsley and lemon juice. 612 THE EPICUREAN. (1943). DUCKLINGS, WITH ORANGES (Canetons aux Oranges). Prepare two ducklings as for an entree (l T o. 178). Line a saucepan or a braziere (Fig. 134) with carrots, onions, fragments of fat pork, slices of ham and raw veal, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, mushroom peelings and melted fat pork. Lay the ducklings over, the breasts upper-most and pour on a pint of stock (No. 194a); cover and reduce the liquid slowly and completely, then remoisten with half stock and half champagne or white wine, and let simmer until thoroughly cooked. Strain the stock, remove its fat, despumate and reduce it to a half-glaze; take out a fourth part of it and to the remainder, add the blanched and shredded peels of two oranges; let cook again for fifteen minutes. Peel two oranges, free of all pith, remove the pulp between each section and take out the seeds, then add this to the sauce; dish the ducklings, cover with a quarter of the sauce kept aside and surround with two medium oranges cut in four. Serve the sauce separately at the same time as the ducks, or else substitute an orange sauce (No. 511). (1944). BUSTARD EN DAUBE-WILD GOOSE (Outarde en Daube-Oie Sauvage). As a bustard is nearly always tough, it is necessary to hang it up for several days. Pick, singe, draw and clean it well; cut off the pinions, neck and drumsticks; detach the legs from the body as well as the breasts, and lard all these meats with large shreds of raw ham, then season; lay them in a vessel with a pint of vinegar and as much water, let macerate for twenty-four hours. Cover the bottom and sides of a large stone stock pot with thin slices of fat pork, range in the bottom a few small carrots and turnips in the shape of three-fourth inch balls, a few onions, a bunch of aromatic herbs and two boned and blanched calf's feet, dredge over whole peppers and cloves then put in the carcass, legs and breast pieces after draining them from their marinade. Moisten to half the height of the meats with white wine, cover over with bards of fat pork, and reduce the liquid for a few moments. Close the vessel hermetically with a piece of paper and a common plate half filled with water and let it cook very slowly in the oven for six to seven hours, according to its ten- derness; remove carefully and dress on a large dish with the calf's feet and vegetables; skim the fat from the strained liquid and strain it again over the meat. (1945). GOOSE A LA OHIPOLATA (Oie a la Chipolata). A whole goose can either be served as a releve or as a roast; the slices, legs and giblets as an entree. A goose is usually served at unceremonious dinners. Draw and singe a goose, clean it well and truss it as for an entree (No. 178); fill the inside with a sausage forcemeat (No. 68) into which mix a handful of bread-crumbs, several eggs and cooked fine herbs (No. 385); season highly. Line a braziere with bards of fat pork, cut up carrots and onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with chervil; lay the goose on top of these, surround it with bits of veal and moisten with Madeira wine, broth and white wine to half its height; boil, skim and simmer for three to four hours until properly cooked. Strain the stock, remove all its fat and reduce to half, then pour it into some brown sauce (No. 414) in the act of being reduced, adding more of the Madeira. Dress the goose and garnish around with clusters of small braised and glazed onions, blanched carrots cooked in stock (No. 194a), braised chestnuts fallen to a glaze, and mushroom heads cooked, turned and channeled (No. 118); cover over with a part of the sauce and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. (1946). GOOSE A LA EOYER (Oie a la Royer). Prepare the same as for the chipolata (No. 1945) and after the stock has been strained, skimmed and reduced to a half-glaze, add to it the juice of one orange, some currant jelly and finely shredded cooked orange peel, pour a part of this sauce over the goose, and garnish around with sour apple tartlets (No. 3327); serve the rest of the sauce separately. (1947). GOOSE A LA THIEBLIN-ROASTED (Oie Rotie a la ThiSblin). Pick out a fine goose, draw, singe and clean it thoroughly, then truss it for roasting. Boil fifty peeled chestnuts in some stock (No. 194a) with a few shredded celery stalks, adding only sufficient of the moisture just to allow them to cook, and when done, drain. Put two pounds of pork force- meat in a sautoir over a brisk fire, cook, stir occasionally and season with salt, mignonette, nutmeg, chopped parsley, a handful of bread-crumbs and two whole eggs, add the chestnuts and use this dressing to fill the insides of the goose, wrap it up in several sheets of buttered paper and roast it for two and a half hours, basting it over frequently. Twenty-five minutes before serving, unwrap POULTRY. 613 the goose and return it to the spit in order to have it acquire a fine color, dress and serve with Zuchette sauce (No. 564). Garnish around the goose with croustades filled with gooseberries preparing them in the following way: Have two pounds of gooseberries, cut off the tops and stalks, blanch for two minutes, then drain. Cook in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of sugar to small crack, add the gooseberries, toss them gently, then cool off, stir in as much whipped cream as there are goose- berries, having it unsweetened and well drained; serve a sauce-boat of gravy (No. 404) at the same time. (1948). GOOSE, GERMAN STYLE-ROASTED (Oie Rotie a TAllemande). Prepare and cook the goose the same as for stuffed with chestnuts (No. 1950), but instead of filling with chestnut forcemeat, substitute ten apples, peeled, quartered, cored and cooked in a vessel with six ounces of dried currants and four ounces of seeded raisins, half a pound of bread- crumbs, cinnamon and two whole eggs. Mince well a red cabbage after carefully removing all the hard parts and lay it in a saucepan with stock (No. 194a), from which the fat has not been removed, and salt, cook slowly until ready to serve, then put in a tablespoonful of vinegar, garnish around the goose with this cabbage and outside of it set a string of small broiled sausages (No. 754). (1949). GEESE GIBLETS WITH TURNIPS (Abatis d'Oie aux Navets). Put half a pound of unsalted bacon into a saucepan with a little butter and let fry for a few moments, then add the giblets prepared as for No. 1927 and the seasoning, also two dozen small onions and four dozen turnips cut the size and shape of large Spanish olives, having previously fried them in butter with a pinch of sugar. Drain them and add them to the stew with a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and pour in some espagnole sauce (No. 414) and stock (No. 194a), boil, skim and simmer for half an hour; season to taste with salt and pepper. When the giblets are cooked, remove the parsley and serve the meat in the center of a dish with the vegetables around and the sauce poured over the whole. (1950). GOOSE STUPPED WITH CHESTNUTS AND WITH SAUSAGES AND CHESTNUTS- ROASTED (Oie Rotie Farcie aux Marrons et aux Saucisses et Marrons). Select a fine goose; singe and reserve the fat and giblets, then wipe out the insides and fill it, also the breast with a dressing prepared as follows: Take one pound of chopped veal, and two pounds of chopped fat pork, only mixing them together afterward, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and allspice; add two gills of stock (No. 149a) or water, and pound the whole together; then mix FIG. 377. in sixty chestnuts that have been roasted in the oven and freed of skins. Truss the goose and lay it in a roasting-pan with its own fat and half a pint of hot water, sprinkle fine salt over it, and cover with a buttered paper; then place it in the oven to cook for three hours, being careful to baste it occasionally; it should be well done; salt over, untruss, and dress on a dish; skim the fat from the surface of its liquid, pour in a little gravy (No. 404), boil, and then strain through a sieve. Throw a little of this over the goose and serve the remainder separately. With Sausages and Chestnuts. Prepare and cook the goose exactly the same only omit putting the chestnuts in the dressing; but braise them and use them for garnishing both sides of the goose and arrange small broiled Chipolata sausages (No. 754) on the ends. (1951). GOSLING A LA SOYER (Oison a la Soyer). Draw, singe, and clean well a young goose; truss, filling the inside with a dressing made of a pound of finely chopped beef suet, a pound of soaked bread-crumbs, having all the water extracted, 614 THE EPICUREAN. half a pound of butter, some onions fried in butter with the goose liver cut in small squares, sage, thyme, basil, marjoram, parsley, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roast the goose either on the spit or in the oven for an hour and a half to two hours, basting it frequently. When done, dish it up on top of a puree of apples seasoned with sugar and nutmeg. Peel some apples cut in four; range on a generously buttered dish, sprinkled over with sugar, and cook for ten minutes in the hot oven, and lay around the goose. Serve separate a sauce prepared with the glaze from the dripping pan detaching it with a little gravy (No. 404), strain and skim; mix in gradually some espagnole sauce (No. 414) in which currant jelly has been dissolved; strain the whole through a sieve, and serve it in a sauce-boat to accompany the goose. (1952). KOAST GOSLING OB MONGEEL GOOSE (Oison ou Oie Matisse Eotis). A gosling roasted on the spit makes an excellent dish. It can also be cooked in a slow oven laid In a narrow earthenware (Fig. 377) or iron pan with plenty of fat; generally both these birds are stuffed before being roasted. A mongrel goose may be filled with partly broiled chestnuts lightly fried in butter or fat pork; it can also be stutfed with small apples after removing the core with a tube five-eighths of an inch in diameter, or both chestnuts and apples can be replaced by a fresh pork hash into which fine herbs and bread crumbs have been mixed, or even by small sausages roasted partially in fat pork or grease. If the goose be large it will take two to three hours to have it tender; when a gosling is cooked on the spit it must first be trussed, then wrapped in buttered paper and roasted for one hour, being careful to baste frequently and to remove the paper after it has been in three- quarters of an hour to let it acquire a fine brown color, and it is then served simply with good reduced gravy (No. 404). A kind of thick pancake can be served at the same time made with bread-crumbs soaked, pressed, then pounded in a bowl and diluted with whole eggs and milk, sea- soning with salt, pepper, pulverized thyme and marjoram and chopped blanched onions. Lay this preparation on a well-greased tin sheet and cook in the oven basting it bountifully with goose grease, after cutting it into inch and a half squares. (1953). GOSLING SAUTED WITH TOMATOES, KOBEKT SAUCE (Oison Saut6 aux Tomates a la Sauce Kobert). Have a good gosling, singe, draw and cut it up into seven pieces the two legs and five pieces taken from the breast; season with salt and pepper and fry slowly in lard. Drain off the fat and detach the glaze from the pan with a little clear gravy (No. 404). Cut twelve peeled tomatoes across in two, press out the juice and seeds and fry them in a frying pan with very hot oil; season with salt, pepper and a crushed and chopped clove of garlic. When the pieces are cooked, dish up and dress the fried tomatoes over; sprinkle very green chopped parsley on top, pour the gravy around and serve separately some Kobert sauce (No. 533). (1954). GOSLING STEWED WITH TUENIPS (Eagout d'Oison aux Navets). Cut up a small tender and well cleaned gosling into medium-sized pieces, suppressing the pinions, drumsticks and neck; cut also half a pound of lean bacon into half inch squares; fry them for a few moments in butter, and remove with the skimmer, leaving the fat in the saucepan; lay the pieces of goose into this fat, fry over a hot fire while stirring, season and add one onion and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. When the meats are browned, drain off the fat and dredge the goose with flour, moisten to its height with hot stock (No. 194a), and boil up this liquid while stirring, letting it remain in this state for ten minutes; the sauce should now be slightly thickened. Cover well the saucepan with its lid and continue to cook moderately. Take raw turnips and cut them into balls three-quarters of an inch in diameter, place them in a pan with the strained fat from the goose, season with salt and a pinch of sugar, and color them briskly; when half cooked lift out the pieces of goose to trim neatly, strain its stock and return it to a clean saucepan with a gill of Marsala wine, the pieces of goose, the bacon and the turnips; boil together for ten minutes and finish cooking in a slack oven. The gosling and turnips should both be found done at the same time; dress all in a deep dish with very little sauce. POULTRY. 615 (1955). GUINEA FOWL (Pintado), The guinea fowl is a pretty bird the same size as an ordinary fowl, having slate-colored FIG. 378. feathers covered with small round white spots; it is raised in the poultry yard; when young its meat is most agreeable to eat. The fecundity of a guinea fowl is most remarkable. (1956). GUINEA FOWLS LAEDED AND DECORATED WITH THEIE OWN FEATHEES- EOASTED (Pintades Piquees Eoties Garnies de Lenr Plumage), Guinea fowls are frequently disguised with their own or with pheasants' feathers, for their resemblance is almost similar. Select young guinea fowls, dress and truss them as if intended for roasting (No. 179); plunge the breasts in boiling water to stiffen the skin and lard them with very fine shreds of larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52); wrap them up in several sheets of buttered paper, then roast them either on the spit or in the oven; when they are three-quarters done, unwrap and brown a fine color; salt and dress on croutons of bread fried in butter, and decorate with either their own feathers; serve a separate sauce-boat of clear gravy (No. 404). (1957). GUINEA FOWLS FILLETS A LA GAILLAEDET (Filets de Pintades a la Gaillardet). Kaise the fillets from half a dozen young guinea fowls, remove the skin and epidermis, and saute them over a brisk fire, but without coloring. Set them under a weight and when partly cold pare them into half hearts, cover with some well-reduced Villeroi sauce (No. 560) and range them as quickly as they are ready on a tin sheet to cool thoroughly. Detach them from this sheet, roll them in bread-crumbs, dip in eggs and again in bread-crumbs, smoothing the breading with the blade of a knife. Fry them in clarified butter to a fine golden brown, drain on a napkin and trim the pointed ends with favor frills (No. 10), then dress in a circle and garnish the center of the dish with tomatoes fried in oil with finely chopped shallots and mushrooms, also some chopped parsley; serve with a separate Colbert sauce (No. 451). (1958). GUINEA FOWLS WITH SAUEEKEAUT (Pintades a la Choucronte). Cook two pounds of good sauerkraut perfectly plain with a piece of smoked bacon and half a pound of sausages. Bard two young guinea fowls aad cook them smothered in a saucepan; when nearly done, add them to the sauerkraut, which is not thoroughly cooked yet, and finish both together. Drain off the fowls and meat and reduce the liquid remaining in the sauerkraut, thick- ening it with a piece of kneaded butter (No. 579); finish off the fire with a piece of plain butter. Dress on a dish, form a hollow in the center and lay in it the cut up fowls glazing them over simply with a brush; serve a clear gravy (No. 404) separately. (1959). PIGEONS A LA OHAETEEUSE (Pigeons a la Chartreuse). Blanch half a cabbage and cut it up into two parts, remove the core, then braise these with half a pound of bacon. Place some melted fat pork in a saucepan and fry in it three pigeons; when colored range them over the cabbage and garnish the spaces between the pigeons with turnips and carrots each blanched separately, and small onions browned in a pan; season and then withdraw the saucepan, pushing it into a moderate oven. A quarter of an hour later moisten with a gill of hot stock (No. 194a). Finish cooking the pigeons and vegetables very slowly; untruss the birds and 616 THE EPICUREAN. dress them over the braised cabbage laid in the center of the dish; between each pigeon place a cluster of of onions, turnips and carrots, separating each one of these by a thick slice of the bacon standing upright. Increase the quantity of pigeon stock with a little clear gravy (No. 404), suppress all the fat and thicken lightly with a little brown sauce (No. 414); strain this, pour part over the pigeons, cut the causages in slices and dress them around the pigeons one overlapping the other. Serve the rest of the sauce separately. (1960). PIGEONS A LA LOMBARDY POELED (Pigeonneaux a la Lombarde PoSl&\ Prepare eight pigeons; singe, draw and truss for an entree (No. 178); wrap them up in a dry matignon (No. 406), with slices of fat pork and then in strong buttered paper. Butter and gar- nish the bottom of a saucepan with sliced carrots and onions, thyme, bay leaf and sprigs of parsley, add the pigeons, half a pint of white wine and as much stock (No. 194a), boil until there is no more moisture, then remoisten to half the height of the birds and let simmer gently until they are cooked, which will take from thirty to forty-five minutes, drain and strain the stock, skim off all its fat and reduce. Dish the pigeons in a circle over artichoke bottoms fried in butter and fill up the middle with a garnishing of escaloped sweetbreads also fried in butler, and on top lay small squares of cooked lean ham half an inch in diameter and fried in butter, and over these cooked channeled mushroom (No. 118) heads. Cover these garnishings with veloute sauce (No. 415) stirred into the pigeon stock and serve also a sauce-boatful of the same sauce. (1961). PIGEONS A LA VALENCIENNES (Pigeons a la Valenciennes). Cut six ounces of bacon into small dice; fry them for a few moments in butter, then lift out, leaving the fat in the saucepan, and into this put three fine, clean and trussed pigeons, also a few small onions and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123). Fry and moisten to half their height with broth, let fall to a glaze and remoisten once more to half the height of the pigeons and finish cooking over a moderate fire. When they are almost done strain the stock and return it to the sauce- pan without the onions and parsley and let boil up; now add four gills of good rice for each quart of liquid; put back the bacon and a coffeespoonful of prepared red pepper (No. 168) and finish all together. Dish up the rice, untruss the pigeons and dress them on top, surround the whole with small chipolata sausages and the small onions. (1962). PIGEONS GAENISHED WITH MONTGLAS OASES-STUFFED (Pigeons Farcis Garnis de Oaisses Montglas). Fasten a wooden foundation on a dish, it to be one inch high and not too wide; cover with cooked paste (No. 131) or noodle paste (No. 142) decorated on the top with a piping in relief and having a wooden or tin triangle or conical-shaped support in the center, also covered with paste and bored on FIG 3~9. top so that a skewer can be inserted. Bone the breasts of three young, clean pigeons by splitting them lightly through the back, but leaving the legs and thighs attached to the bodies; season the inside meats and fill the breasts with baking liver forcemeat (No. 81) combined with a third as much raw forcemeat (No. 89), a few spoonfuls of cooked lean ham and as much cooked truffles, all to be well chopped; sew up the back, truss as for an entree (No. 178) with the legs thrust inside the body, bard over and wrap each one in a small buttered clotn, then cook in a good poeler stock. As soon as the pigeons are done, drain, unwrap and retighten the cloth more firmly; put them back into their stock to leave cool, then drain again and when unwrapped, wipe them carefully with a cloth. Now detach the breasts from the rump of each pigeon to cut into lengthwise slices, return them to their original POULTRY. 617 position and then place the birds in a sautoir with a part of their stock reduced to a half -glaze warm them in the open oven basting frequently. Remove the pigeons to a small baking sheet, smooth the cut parts nicely and cover the breasts with a not too thick Mornay sauce (No. 504), so the form of the pigeons remain intact; place them for a moment in the hot oven to have the sauce adhere, then dress them at once in a triangle almost standing upright against the support; on top of this insert a small skewer garnished with truffles; surround the bottom of the dish with a chain of small china cases filled with montglas (No. 747), then covered with a layer of forcemeat and poached in a bain-marie; when serving this entree send also a sauce-boatful of the reduced pigeon stock thickened with a little sauce. (1963). PIGEONS, HUNTEESS STYLE-BEEASTS (Pilets de Pigeons Ohasseresse). Raise the fillets from six pigeons leaving the minion fillet adhere, pare and suppress the skin, then salt and lay them in a sautoir with butter and lemon juice; place this on a hot fire and as soon as they are firm to the touch, remove to place under a weight; then pare again and cover one side only with a salpicon of sweetbreads, truffles and mushrooms mingled with well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407). Cover this salpicon with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) diluted with a little cream. Dust the tops with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan cheese, mask with butter and lay the breasts in a sautoir, having the bottom covered with thin slices of fat pork, set it in the hot oven and when the breasts are of a fine color and very warm, dress them in a circle, pouring a Diana sauce (No. 460) in the middle. (1964). PIGEONS, MONAEOH STYLE-SMOTHEKED (Pigeons au Monarque-k 1'Etuvee). Choose six good squabs; draw, singe, and clean them well; dip the breasts into boiling water to harden the skin and facilitate the larding process, then lard them with small lardons of fat pork (No. 4, Fig. 54), and braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419); glaze and let them get a fine color; when done, drain and dress. Garnish around with stuffed olives, truffles, mushrooms, quenelles, cocks'-combs, and kidneys, or the combs may be imitated by pieces of veal palate removed with a cutter into comb-shapes. Cover with a veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 398), and thickened with raw egg-yolks and fresh butter, sending some of the sauce to the table separately. Surround these garnishings with trussed crawfish, and between these lay slices of foies-gras an inch and a quarter in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, breaded a la Villeroi and fried. (1965). POTTED PIGEONS (Eagout de Pigeons au Four). After cleaning and singeing six pigeons, cut them up into four pieces; lay three ounces of butter in a saucepan with six ounces of bacon cut in quarter inch squares; when this begins to brown put in four ounces of onions cut in slices. Range the pigeons in an earthen pot or deep dish with a bed o\ the bacon on the bottom, the pigeons on top, and more bacon over; add salt, pepper, and sprigs of thyme; moisten with thin brown sauce (No. 414), placing here and there a few pieces of pilol cracker dipped in water. Boil and then let simmer or push in the oven until thoroughly done, and serve in the same crock they have been cooked in. (1966). PIGEONS, PEINTANKEE STYLE (Pigeons a la Printaniere). Prepare a garnishing composed of carrots and turnip balls formed with a half inch vegetable- spoon, and some large green peas; have the carrots and turnips blanched separately, and the peas simply cooked in an untinned copper pan. Break the breastbones of three tender pigeons, remove these bones and fill the breasts with a dressing made of fresh fat pork, chicken livers cooked, chopped, and pounded with a little panada and two egg-yolks. Truss the pigeons with the legs thrust inside for entree (No. 178), and lay them in a saucepan lined with fat pork, roots, and minced onions; cook them almost dry, only having a very little stock (No. 194a), reduce it to a glaze, and repeat this several times, when finished; drain them off, untruss and cut each one in two lengthwise, then reconstruct them into their former shape. Dress them on a dish leaning them against a triangle-shaped fried bread support fastened on the center of the dish, and be- tween each pigeon set a different garnishing namely; the carrots, turnips, and peas. Increase the quantity of stock with a little stock (No. 194a), strain, skim, and reduce it, thicken it with brown sauce (No. 414), and serve it in a sauce-boat. 618 THE EPICUREAN. (1967). STEWED PIGEONS (Pigeons en Compote). Bleed six young pigeons in order to kill them, reserving the blood in a bowl; mix with it a spoonful of vinegar to prevent its coagulating. After the pigeons are drawn, singed and well cleansed, truss them with the legs thrust inside. Glaze four dozen small, raw onions, cut eight ounces of bacon into half inch pieces and fry them for a few moments in a saucepan with butter; remove them with a skimmer leaving in the fat, and to this add the pigeons, fry them on all their sides, and season when they have acquired a fine color, then dredge over a spoonful of flour and cook together for two minutes while tossing them about, now moisten the pigeons gradually to their height with white wine and hot stock (No. 194a), stir the liquid till it boils rapidly, then leave it in this state for five minutes, afterward removing the saucepan to a more moderate fire; now add a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 1X3) and some mushroom peelings. When the pigeons are three-quarters done, put in both the glazed onions and the bacon and finish cooking together. At the last moment, drain out the pigeons, untruss and range them on a dish surrounded by the garn- ishings. Strain the sauce, free it of fat and thicken it with the blood mixed with two raw egg- yolks, cook this thickening without boiling it and finish the sauce with a piece of butter, then strain it over the pigeons. (1968). PIGEONS WITH CEAWPISH (Pigeons aux Ecrevisses). Cook some small crawfish with salt, white wine and parsley; break off the tails and suppress their shells in order to be able to pare them, chop up the fragments and add them to a little bread forcemeat finished with fine herbs and egg-yolks. Break the breastbones of two or three pigeons so as to remove the bone, fill up the empty space with the prepared forcemeat, truss and braise them with very little moisture, then strain off the stock, free it of fat and add to it a few spoon- fuls of the crawfish stock, thickening with raw egg-yolks diluted with cream, then put in the craw- fish tails, untruss the pigeons, dish them and pour the sauce over. (1969). PIGEONS WITH GREEN PEAS (Pigeons aux Petits Pois). Truss six pigeons as for an entree (No. 178), returning the livers to their original place. Melt some chopped fat pork in a saucepan, add to it a quarter of a pound of small five-eighths inch squares of bacon and fry for a few moments, then remove them with a skimmer. Put the pigeons into this saucepan with five or six small onions for each bird, brown slightly and slowly, then add one and a half quarts of green peas, a bunch of parsley and the bacon. Two minutes later moisten with two gills of stock (No. 194a), boil for five minutes and withdraw the saucepan to a slower fire, push into the oven, and finish cooking the peas and pigeons, then drain out the birds, untruss and dress them on a dish; thicken the peas with kneaded butter (No. 579), and place them around the pigeons. (1970). PIGEONS WITH OLIVES-BREASTS (Filets de Pigeons aux Olives). This entree is dressed in the hollow of a cooked paste border (No. 10) cut into points and open- worked with a pastry cutter. The band intended for making the border should be cut out on a floured table as soon as it has been rolled ; fasten it on a dish a quarter of an inch from the inside edge, FIG. 380. spreading it slightly; egg it over with a brush and dry for a few hours. After this paste is dried, lay inside of it a wooden foundation covered with more of the same paste rolled out thin. Besides this, prepare a little raw chicken forcemeat (No. 89) mixed with an equal quantity of baked liver force- meat (No. 80; pounded and passed through a tammy. Poach this forcemeat in a pyramidical mold POULTRY. 619 rounded and smooth an inch and a half high, placed in a bain-marie; unmold this pyramid in the center of the dish, for it is intended to uphold the entree. Select a few dozen of the finest and largest Spanish olives procurable; stone and blaneh them to stuff with foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78). Singe six young but large pigeons quite fleshy, fill the breasts with a spoonful of grated fat pork and fresh chopped truffle peelings; truss and cover with fat pork, then cook in some good stock; as soon as done remove tountruss; detach the breasts from the back, remove the two fillets from both breasts, sup- press the skin, pare and take off the minions. Lay the six fillets from the left side in a small sautoir, mask them with a little espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with the pigeon stock and Madeira; cover and keep them hot. Pare the other six fillets, mask them also on the inside with a layer of baking forcemeat thickened with a little raw forcemeat, smooth well, and range these fillets in another small sautoir having a little half-glaze on the bottom to heat the forcemeat; warm it while glazing ever with a brush. At the last moment unmold the pyramid, lay the fillets around alternating them, and all turned in the same direction standing almost upright. Dress a part of the olives in the center space formed by the circle on top of the pyramid, and range the others around the open- worked border. Cover the fillets lightly with the sauce, also the garnishings and serve more separately. (1971). PULLET A LA AROO VALLEY (Poularde a la Arco Valley). Prepare, cook, and dress the pullet the same as for a la Seymour(No. 1981); serve at the same time but separately a veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom broth and thickened when ready to serve with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter, adding chopped parsley, small mushroom buttons and small chicken quenelles. Garnish around with cassolettes (No. 860) of oysters poached, drained and mingled with allemande sauce (No. 407). (1972). PULLET A LA DAME BLANCHE (Poularde a la Dame Blanche). Truss a pullet to be served as an entree (No. 178), rub over the breast with half a lemon, and cover with slices of fat pork. Poeler the pullet in some good stock, as explained in No. 12, adding to it a piece of bacon previously blanched. When the pullet is cooked, strain the stock, free it of fat, and keep the chicken hot in this. Place on the fire to reduce four gills of veloute sauce (No. 415), incorporating a part of the reduced stock slowly into it with a coffeespoonful of prepared red pepper (No. 168); when succulent, strain. Dress the pullet on a thin layer of forcemeat (No. 79) poached on a dish, surround it with small clusters of potatoes cut in balls with a large vege- table scoop, and simply cooked first in salted water, then steamed. Cover the pullet with a part of the sauce, serving the remainder separately. Pullets or capons may be handed round to the guests after being cut up, and they can also be carved on the dining-room sideboard, and served on hot plates with some of the garnishing, and a little of the sauce. (1973). PULLET A LA DEMIDOFF (Poularde a la Demidoff). Draw a pullet through the side; crack the breastbone so as to be able to draw it out and fill the empty space with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), containing cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped truffles, sew up the skin underneath, also the side opening, and truss the pullet to be served as an entree (No. 178). Cover over with fat pork, and cook it for an hour and a half in some good mirepoix stock (No. 419). When done to perfection, drain, untruss, and dress it on a dish having a bottom of croustade rice fastened to it and surround with a garnishing dressed in groups composed of small truffle balls cut out with a three-eighths vege tablespoon, small balls from the red part of carrots, and small balls of white turnips, also clusters of fresh green peas cooked English style in an un- tinned pan. Cover the pullet with a little veloute sauce (No. 415) strained and reduced with the pullet stock, and finished with two spoonfuls of good raw cream, serving a sauce-boat of veloute sauce (No. 415) separately. (1974). PULLET A LA LEONDISE (Poularde a la Leradise). Roast the pullet the same as No. 1996 and range it on a layer of macaroni into which has been mixed crawfish or shrimp tails, mushrooms, and quenelles. Serve with a sauce-boat of financiere sauce (No. 464). 620 THE EPICUREAN. (1975). PULLET A LA LESTER WALLACE (Poularde a la Lester Wallack). Break and remove the breastbone of a clean pullet, fill in the empty breast space with a dress- ing made of grated fat pork, chopped mushrooms, and bread steeped in milk and this liquid squeezed out; truss as for an entree (No. 178), cover with bards of fat pork, and pooler it quite white (No. 12), then untie and dress on a rice croustade foundation fastened on a dish; surround it simply with turned and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118), cooked artichoke bottoms about two and a half inches in diameter, removing the center with a five-eighths of an inch cutter, then divide into eight pieces, and small chicken quenelles poached in salted water; all these garnishings to be arranged in separate groups. Cover the pullet with some good veloute sauce (No. 415), reduced and thickened with egg- yolks and cream, and finished at the last moment with a salpicon of foies-gras (No. 743), passed through a fine sieve; serve more of the sauce in a sauce-boat. (1976). PULLET A LA MARTINIERE (Poularde a la Martiniere). Poeler a pullet very white (No. 12); drain and cut it up into eight pieces; dress them simply on a force-meat ring poached on the dish; surround with a circle of medium-sized poached spoon quenelles (No. 155), and cover the chicken and quenelles with good veloute sauce (No. 415), reduced with mushroom peelings, and finished with a little good cream. Serve the remainder of the sauce separ- ately with very small and very white mushrooms added. (1977). PULLET A LA MORNAY (Poularde a la Mornay). Select a good clean pullet and truss it for entree (No. 178); poeler it in a stock (No. 194a), keeping it very white, then drain, and when half cold detach the bread so as to be able to dress a garnish- ing in the empty spaces of the remaining carcass. Escalop these breast fillets and lay them in a sautoir with a garnishing composed of cocks'-combs and kidneys, mushrooms and foies-gras, and moisten this stew rather sparingly with reduced thick allemande sauce (No. 407). Range this in the cleaned out empty space, having them reassume their former shape, smooth them nicely and cover with a layer of Mornay sauce (No. 504), smooth this also and besprinkle over with a grated parme- san cheese, then glaze the surface under a salamander (Fig. 123) or in a hot oven. After finishing the pullet dress it on a long dish containing a layer of poached forcemeat, cover the breasts with a row of slices of truffles and surround the base with clusters of chicken croquettes. (1978). PULLET A LA NANTUA (Poularde a la Nantua). Split down the back of a singed and very clean pullet; bone the breast and legs, leaving on the wing bones; season the inside meats and fill the empty space with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) combined with crawfish butter (No. 573) and prepared red pepper (No. 168) also the crawfish tails cut lengthwise in two. Sew up the pullet, truss and have the breast well rounded, then cover over with slices of fat pork and lay it in a narrow saucepan, cover three-quarters of its height with skimmed stock (No. 194a), adding aromatic herbs and mushroom peelings; cook it in this alone for one hour; it should really only be poached; then drain off the pullet, untie and dress it on a thin layer of forcemeat poached on a dish; cover lightly with veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with a part of the stock and finished with red butter (No. 580). Surround with small timbales of fat rice made in timbale molds (No. 6) letting it be quite white; serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauce-boat. (1979), PULLET A LA PERIGORD (Poularde a la P6rigord), After the pullet has been singed stuff the breast with pounded veal suet seasoned with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and a clove of garlic, adding to it some chopped up truffles. Insert thick slices of truffles between the fat and skin, then wrap the fowl in a matignon (No. 406) and roast it on the spit or oven; unwrap and reduce the matignon with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and Madeira; dress the pullet with some clear gravy (No. 404) and serve the sauce separately. (1980). PULLET A LA PRINTANIERE-GLAZED (Poularde Glace^e a la Printaniere). Have a clean, singed pullet; break the breast bone and stuff the breast with grated fat pork mingled with truffle peelings, truss for entree (No. 178). Scald the breast in boiling water to harden the meat, then dip these scalded parts at once into cold water, wipe dry and lard with fine lardons of larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52). Lay the puliet in a saucepan containing fragments of fat pork, roots and minced onions, salt over and steam for fifteen to twenty minutes, then moisten POULTRY. 621 with two or three gills of stock (No. 194a) and allow it to fall to a glaze. Remoisten to half its height with stock and reduce the liquid slowly to half, finish cooking the pullet in this manner, basting it over frequently; when done it should be glazed to a fine color; drain it off to untruss and dress on a dish, surrounding it on both sides with clusters of new cooked carrots and small glazed onions. Strain and skim the pullet stock, reduce it until it becomes succulent, then thicken with a little good brown sauce (No. 414), serving it in a sauce-boat. (1981). PULLET A LA SEYMOUK (Poularde k la Seymour). Soak a pound and a half of bread in milk, then press out all the liquid and add it to half a pound of very finely chopped beef suet taken from around the kidneys and a seasoning of shallots, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, cream and egg-yolks; use this to stuff the inside and the breast of a pullet, prepared for roasting (No. 179), tie it up and cover with fat pork, then roast it before a good fire basting it over frequently, remove, dress and pour on some clear gravy (No. 404), then serve. (1982). PULLET A LA VILLAES (Poularde k la Villars). Truss a pullet as for an entree (No. 178) with the legs inside; rub over the breasts with half a lemon, cover with bards of fat pork, tie well and poeler it in some good stock (No. 12) keeping it very white. Just when prepared to serve, drain out the pullet, untie and dress it on a trimmed rice croustade foundation fastened on a dish, and surround it with a white garnishing composed of lamb's sweetbreads, cocks'-kidneys and mushroom heads, dressed in clusters and these alter- nated with fine slices of red beef tongue cut in points to resemble cocks'-combs. Cover the pullet and garnishings with a little Villars sauce (No. 559) and serve more of it separately. (1983). PULLET A LA ZINGAEA (Poularde a la Zingara). Draw two pullets, singe and truss with the legs inside, then tie, stiffen the breast meats and lard them with lardons of tongue and fat pork (No. 3, Fig. 52). Line the bottom of a saucepan with bards of the same pork and slices of veal, round slices of carrots and onions, one whole onion containing a clove and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; lay the pullets on top, cover over with strong buttered paper and moisten with one quart of stock (No. 194a); boil, skim and cook slowly for an hour to an hour and a half, and thirty minutes before serving allow it to brown to a nice color. Pound four ounces of unsmoked red beef tongue with the same amount of butter, season with pepper and grated nutmeg and dissolve this in a quarter of a pint of meat glaze (No. 402), heat it up and add a little espagnole (No. 414); rub the whole through a tammy and lay this puree on the bottom of a dish with the pullets on top. (1984). PULLET, ANCIENT STYLE (Poularde a 1'Ancienne), Draw and singe a pullet, trim and insert slices of truffle between the skin and flesh, truss as for an entree (No. 178), and lard the legs with rosettes of truffles, bard it nicely and cook in stock (No. 194a) then drain and dress garnishing around with cauliflower and serving a separate well- buttered veloute sauce (No. 415) into which mingle some chopped up truffles. (1985). PULLET, ENGLISH STYLE (Poularde a 1'Anglaise). After the pullet is cooked as for ancient style (No. 1984), dress it the same, only changing tho garnishing to one of potatoes, carrots, turnips, Brussels sprouts and green peas, the whole cooked in salted water; serve a cream bechamel (No. 411) separately. (1986). PULLET, EGYPTIAN STYLE BEOILED (Poularde Grille's a 1'Egyptienne). First braise the pullet and when cold cut it up and place it in a vessel with salt, pepper, oil and lemon juice, drain, then immerse in bread-crumbs, saturate with oil and broil over a slow fire. When very hot and of a fine color dress on a layer of rice oriental style (No. 2978). Serve with a separate espagnole sauce (No. 414) into which has been added prepared red pepper (No. 168). (1987). PULLET IN SUEPEISE (Poularde en Surprise). Dress a pullet leaving the neck skin very long; break the breast bone in order to remove it and fill the empty breast space with rather firm quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Truss the pullet with the legs thrust under the skin and wrap the breast around with thin slices of fat pork, braise (No. 12) 622 THE EPICUREAN. it the same time as a chicken and then let both get cold. Untruss the pullet, divide the breasts from the carcass, leaving on the legs and a part of the breast, so that it forms a long hollow case; lay it erect on a small baking sheet and till the bottom of the hollow case with a layer of chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75); poach this for two minutes in a slack oven. Cut the two pullet fillets into large Julienne, also those taken from the cooked chicken; put them in a saucepan with the same quantity of cooked foies-gras and as many cooked truffles both cut up the same size as the chicken meat, mingling some good reduced veloute sauce (No. 415) with the whole; it should FIG. 381. remain quite consistent. Dress this on the top of the cream forcemeat in the hollow case, smooth it well rounded on top, and cover with a thick layer of the same forcemeat; smooth this carefully to the shape of the original breast in order to have the pullet served whole. Decorate both sides of the breast with graduated truffle crescents; butter the forcemeat lightly with a brush and poach in a very slack oven. After removing the pullet, dress it on a dish having its bottom covered with a layer of foundation rice (No. 160) to maintain it in position, and lay on the outer edge a fancy silver border (Fig. 6); keep the whole hot for ten minutes, then remove and dress on each side a cluster of very white mushrooms; cover them as well as the breast with a little supreme sauce (No. 547) prepared with the stock and serve with a sauce-boatful of the same. (1988), PULLET IVORY WITH DECORATED QUENELLES (Poularde a ITvoire aux Quenelles D6core"es). Break the breast bone of a cleaned and singed pullet, tie it up as for an entree (No. 178) and insert a piece of butter into the breast; cover over with bards of fat pork and set it in a saucepan of its own dimensions; moisten to its height with stock (No. 194a), boil the liquid over a hot fire then remove the saucepan on a slower one, cover and finish cooking the pullet for forty-five to sixty minutes. As soon as done to perfection, strain the stock through a napkin into another vessel leaving the pullet to keep warm. Skim the fat from the stock and pour the top gently into another saucepan, then reduce it with some veloute sauce (No. 415) and cream; strain this through a tammy. Dress the pullet, pour the sauce over, and garnish around with chicken quenelles deco- rated with truffles (No. 154). (1989). PULLET, MODERN STYLE (Poularde a la Moderne). Peel two pounds of fresh truffles and chop up the peelings; pound them with one pound of panada, adding half as much raw foies-gras; continue to pound, putting in eight ounces of grated fat pork, a few eggs and seasoning, then rub the whole through a sieve. Fill the breasts of a pullet with a part of this dressing, using the remainder for the insides; braise (No. 12) with a very little moistening; dress when cooked, and garnish around with cocks'-combs, and the peeled truffles sauted in butter, and cooked in Madeira. Reduce the braise stock with veloute sauce (No. 415), and just when ready to serve incorporate a few pats of fine butter; pour it over the pullet and garnishings, and serve some well-buttered chicken puree (No. 713) separately. (1990). PULLET, PARISIAN STYLE-STUFFED (Poularde Farcie a la Parisienne). This entree is dressed on a dish decorated with an open-work border made of cooked paste (No. 10), having the empty space in the center covered with a wooden foundation masked over with noodle paste (No. 142), dried in the air. Draw a pullet through the side, break the breastbone to be able to draw it out, and stuff the breast with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), finished with a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and a foies-gras salpicon cut in three-eighths of an inch dice, and truffles POULTRY. 623 of the same size; sew the breast skin underneath, and truss the pullet as for entree (No. 178); cover with slices of fat pork and cook in a good stock (No. 194a), keeping it white, and when done properly, drain, untie, and untruss. Lay it on the foundation already placed on the dish; surround FIG. 382. it with a garnishing of round truffles cooked at the last moment with Madeira and melted glaze (No. 402). Cover the pullet with some good veloute sauce (No. 415), reduced with its own stock and the Madeira and glaze in which the truffles have been cooked, and serve a sauce-boat of the sauce at the same time. (1991), PULLET TARTAR SAUCE-BROILED (Poularde Grille a la Sauce Tartars). Draw and truss a pullet as for an entree (No. 178), then split it down the center of the back, flatten and bread-crumb it English style with egg-yolks and butter beaten together; broil on a slow fire, and serve on a very hot dish; pour a little good gravy (No. 404) under, and send to the table with a separate tartar sauce (No. 631). (1992). TRUTFLED ROASTED PULLET (Poularde TruffSe Rotie). A few days before this is needed draw the pullet through the side and wipe the inside well. Peel twelve to sixteen ounces of fine, fresh truffles, leaving them either whole or cut in two or four according to their size. Melt two ounces of grated fat pork in a saucepan, add to it the truffles and season with fine allspice; fry for two minutes, remove and use this to stuff the breast of the pullet. Sew up the openings and truss, then lay it aside in a cool place. When needed wrap it in buttered paper, run it on a spit (No. 118) or else lay it in a small cradle spit (No. 116) without boring any hole through it whatever, and roast it for one hour, basting frequently. Unwrap it ten minutes before serving to salt over and allow to attain a fine color; take it out, untie and send it to the table with a sauce-boat of good reduced gravy (No. 404) into which has been added the chopped up truffle peelings. (1993), PULLET WITH OROUSTADES PnTANOIERE (Poularde aux Oroustades Financiere). Draw a pullet, singe and free it well of all the pin feathers adhering to the flesh; truss as for an entree (No. 178) and rub over with lemon juice; wrap it up in thin slices of fat pork, tying it on firmly. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with bards of fat pork, slices of veal, two slices of raw, smoked ham, a few cut up carrots, two onions, two cloves, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and season with salt and whole peppers; place it on the fire and let simmer for an hour or more and when done, strain the stock through a napkin, remove its fat and reduce it with two gills of espagnole (No. 414). Drain the pullet, untruss and lay it on a dish, garnishing around with some crousfades made in molds (No. 3, Fig. 137) and filled with financiere salpicon. (No. 667). (1994). PULLET WITH MUSSELS OR OYSTERS (Poularde aux Monies on anx Hnitres). Truss and cook a pullet exactly as with the ravioles (No. 1995), wash some mussels in several waters and place them in a covered saucepan over a brisk fire to open; when this occurs remove from their shells, transfer them to another vessel. Fry colottess in butter a little parsley and chives, add two gills of either be'chamel (No. 409) or veloute (No. 415), a little stock (No. 194a) and grated nutmeg; boil this sauce up once or twice, then put in either the mussels or else some prepared oysters; just when ready to serve, drain the pullet, untruss and dress. Thicken the sauce with a few raw egg-yolks and fine butter, heat it up without boiling and range the garnish- ings around the pullet, cover over with a part of the sauce and serve what remains separately. 624 THE EPICUREAN. (1995). PULLET WITH BAVIOLES (Poularde aux Eavioles). Draw a fine pullet, singe and clean it well, truss it for an entree, (No. 178), and cover over with slices of fat pork. Butter the bottom of a braziere (Fig. 134), lay over some sliced onions and carrots, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, a clove of garlic and two cloves. Moisten with stock (No. 194a) to three-quarters its height, then boil, skim and cook slowly for one hour and a half to two hours; drain off the stock, free it of fat and return this to the braziere to keep the pullet warm. Keduce the stock with veloute (No. 415) if for white, or espag- nole (No. 414) if for brown. Dress the pullet on a layer of ravioles (No. 2976) mingled with some veloute" or espagnole and parmesan cheese, and serve a separate sauce-boat of the sauce with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped parsley added. (1996), PULLET GARNISHED WITH WATER-ORESS-ROASTED (Poularde Rotie au Oresson), Six to nine months old pullets are the most desirable ones especially when quite fat. Roasted poultry should be treated with extreme care, for the roast is the most essential part of a dinner and is partaken of by almost every one. Should the fowl not be barded, then it must be enveloped in a buttered paper and basted frequently while cooking, either with butter or else good poultry fat. Draw and singe a good pullet, truss it for roasting (No. 179) and place it on the spit or in the oven, although roasting on the spit is far the most preferable. "When the pullet is nicely done dress and surround with water-cress, serving its own gravy strained and free of fat sepa- rately. (1997). BLAffQUETTE OF PULLET WITH MUSHROOMS Qlanquette de Poularde aux Champignons). Begin by detaching the legs from a trussed and singed pullet, cut each of these in two, then lay them in a vessel containing water; divide the breast in two and cut each piece into three parts; plunge them also into the cold water with the cut up carcass; let soak for fifteen to twenty minutes then drain and lay them in a saucepan with an onion and a bunch of parsley, and cover plentifully with white chicken broth (No. 188); boil and skim this liquid for twelve minutes then take it off the fire. Prepare a white roux (No. 163) with flour and butter, dilute it with the strained and skimmed pullet broth when partially cold and stir this sauce well until it boils; let it despumate for a quarter of an hour on the side of the fire while removing the fat from the surface. Pare and wipe the pieces of pullet, return them to the saucepan with two dozen turned mushrooms (No. 118); strain the sauce over and finish cooking, finally dressing the pieces of pullet in a deep dish with the mush- rooms. Keduce the sauce for a few miuutes, thicken with two egg-yolks finishing it off the fire with a piece of butter worked in, also some lemon juice; strain and pour it over the pullet. (1998). PULLETS A LA MONTMORENOY-BBEASTS (Filets de Poularde a la Montmorency). Fasten to a dish a plain or ring-shaped bottom covered with cooked paste (No. 131) or noodle paste (No. 142), having in its center a tin cup equally covered with ornamental pieces of paste, egg it all over and dry in the air. Pare the fillets of five small pullets, suppressing the superficial FIG. 383. skin, remove the minion fillets and streak them with truffles, also suppress the pinion bones, trimming them into half hearts rounded on one end and pointed on the other. Place the minion fillets on the larger ones, both slightly bent; Range the fillets on the bottom of a sautoir with a layer of cold clarified butter, being careful to have them all lie in one direction, so that the pointed POULTRY. 625 ends extend toward the center. With the cut up pullet carcasses, prepare a little chicken essence (No. 387) and when done and nicely seasoned, strain and skim off the fat and incorporate into it a few gills of good veloute (No. 415) in the act of being reduced. When this sauce is perfect and succulent, finish it with a few spoonfuls of good, raw cream and afterward a piece of fresh butter; keep it in a bain-marie till needed. Just when ready to serve, sprinkle the fillets over with salt and poach them lightly, drain and dress in a circle on the foundation prepared on the dish. Fill the center cup with a garnishing of peeled truffles cooked in Madeira; cover the fillets lightly with the sauce, serving the rest in a sauce-boat. (1999). PULLET A LA MONTPENSIEB-MINION FILLETS (Filets Mignons de Poularde a la Montpensier). Streak twelve minion fillets with truffles, shape them into rings two inches in diameter and poach them with butter in a small sautoir. Cut twelve quarter inch thick slices from the middle part of freshly cooked red beef tongue and from each of these slices cut out a round piece the same size as the minion fillet rings; lay these tongue rounds on thin crusts of bread fried in butter and covered with a layer of consistent soubise (No. 723), then mask the tongue rounds with a layer of reduced thick Madeira sauce (No. 492), and on top set the minion fillet rings, one on each, filling in their hollow spaces with a large stuffed Spanish olive standing upright and covered with more of the same Madeira sauce. Dress the hot fillets in a circle and in the center place a garnishing of green asparagus tops (No. 2693). (2000). PULLETS' BREASTS A LA VAKSOVIAN (Filets de Poularde a la Varsovienne). Prepare and cook the pullet fillets as for Montmorency (No. 1998), poach them in butter and dish in a circle intercalating with a crouton of bread fried in butter; fill the center with cepes sauted with fine herbs and garnish around with small chicken croquettes (No. 877) made crescent- shaped and fried in hot and very white frying fat. Cover the fillets with bechamel (No. 409) into which has been mixed a little meat glaze (No. 402) and lemon juice; have a sauce-boat of the same sauce served at the same time as the fillets. (2001). PULLETS' BEEASTS A LA VISCONTI (Filets de Poularde a la Visconti). Pare the fillets of three pullets each one weighing from three to four pounds; suppress the superficial skin covering the minions, also the pinion bones; beat them lightly, giving them the shape of a half heart on one end and pointed on the other; range these fillets on the bottom of a sautoir covered with a layer of clarified, and cold butter being careful to place them all in such a way that the sharp ends point toward the center. Just when ready to serve, salt them over and cook slowly on both sides while turning, then drain and dress in a circle on a ring of poached force- meat laid on a dish. Serve them with a garnishing in the center composed of cocks'-combs and kidneys, mushrooms and truffles, mingled with supreme sauce (No. 547), into which has been added half its quantity of mushroom puree (No. 722). (2002). PULLETS' MINION FILLETS WITH MACEDOINE (Filets Mignons de Poularde a la Mac6doine). Pare twelve pullets' minion fillets, remove the outer skin and inside sinew; pare and streak with three-quarter circles of red beef tongue cut into graduated sizes; range them on the bottom of a sautoir and cover with clarified butter, forming each one into the shape of a crescent, salt, sprinkle with butter, and cook in a slow oven, then drain off. Cover a dish with a garnishing of macedoine vegetables mixed with bechamel (No. 680), and finished with a few spoonfuls of melted glaze (No. 402) and several small pats of fresh butter; surround this with the minion fillets. Fill some crescent-shaped bottomless molds placed on a sheet of buttered paper with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) leveled to the height of the mold with the blade of a knife. Place a sautoir on the fire containing clarified butter, set in the molds having the paper on top, push in the oven to detach the paper; remove this and lay the sautoir on the fire to color the crescent to a fine color on both sides; unmold, drain, and dress the minion fillets on these, and around arrange the mace'doine garnishing (No. 680). 626 THE: EPICUREAN. (2003). PULLETS' LEGS A LA BAYONNAISE (Ouisses de Poularde a la Bayonnaise). Remove the legs from three singed pullets retaining the skin covering the back as far down as the rump; bone them entirely with the exception of the drumstick; put them in a vessel with salt, mignonette, lemon juice and a broken bay leaf; let marinate for three hours, being careful to turn them over several times. Twenty-five minutes before serving, drain and roll each one in flour, fry them in grated fat pork and when they attain a fine color and are well cooked, remove. Slice four medium onions three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; detach the pieces so they form rings, flour over and fry these to a golden brown. Dress the legs in the middle of a dish, cover over with brown poivrade sauce (No. 522) with some grated Bayonne ham added to it, and garnish the whole with the fried onions; trim the stump bones with paper frills (No. 10) and serve immediately. (2004). PULLETS' LEGS DEVILED (Ouisses de Poulardes a la Diable). Generally this dish is prepared with pullets' legs already cooked and then broiled, but raw ones can also be used. Score and season well pepper should predominate then roll them in mustard diluted with oil; besprinkle with bread-crumbs and broil on a slow fire, turning them over. Serve with a deviled sauce (No. 459). (2005). PULLETS' LEGS WITH NEW CARROTS (Ouisses de Poulardes aux Garottes Nouvelles). Have three singed pullets and from them remove the legs and the skin covering the back, bone them entirely, retaining the drum sticks; stuff them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and cooked fine herbs (No. 385), shaping them like a cutlet; cover with slices of fat pork and braise them in a little mirepoix stock with white wine (No. 419) into which add six dozen small new blanched carrots, but in case there be no new ones procurable use others, cutting them up to represent the new ones. When these are cooked, lift them out and place them in a saucepan with a little butter, chicken glaze (No. 398) and fine herbs. Strain the stock, free it of fat and reduce it with espagnole sauce (No. 414) to the consistency of half-glaze; skim well the surface of the sauce; dress the legs in the center of a dish with the new or other carrots around, pour over some of the sauce and serve the remainder of it separately. (2006). SQUABS A LA BRIAND (Pigeonneaux a la Briand). Soak bread-crumbs in a little broth; press it to extract well the moisture, then lay it in a bowl with a quarter as much good butter, a few egg-yolks and one whole egg; work this preparation well, seasoning with salt, pepper, parsley and onions chopped and blanchea; use this for filling the squabs, then truss them for an entree (No. 178) and run them on the spit to roast, being careful to baste over occasionally with butter; untie them, remove the larding pork covering the breasts and lay them on a bed of sauted tomatoes (No. 2841). Serve a brown sauce (No. 414) separately into which mix Worcestershire sauce, meat glaze (No. 402), chopped parsley and tarragon vinegar. (2007). SQUABS CRAPAUDINE-BROILED (Pigeonneaux Grilles Orapaudine). After a squab has been well drawn, singed and thoroughly cleaned, cut each side from the pinion of the wing to the tip of the breast; open without de- taching the parts, having the legs and back on one end, and the breast on the other; beat well to flatten, season and dip in melted butter; roll them in bread-crumbs and broil slowly. While this is progressing chop up one shallot exceedingly fine, blanch, drain and fry it colorless in butter, add to it some clear gravy (No. 404) and a little espagnole sauce (No. 414) FlQ and white wine; season and then pour this sauce into a dish, dress the squabs on it and surround with slices of lemon cut in halves. (2008). SQUABS A LA ORISPI (Pigeonneaux a la Orispi). Bone the backs of some small squabs, fill the insides with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), con- taining mushrooms, ham and truffles cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, enclosing it well in the birds. Lay some rings in a sautoir already garnished with slices of fat pork, and place the squabs inside these rings, cover with more slices of the pork and moisten with a very little mire- poix stock (No. 419) with Madeira wine, and when cooked place a round tin plate on the squabs POULTRY. 627 with a weight on top to flatten the birds slightly. Dress them crown-shaped and cover over with green ruvigote sauce (No. 531); lay a cooked trussed crawfish and serve more of the sauce separately. (2009). SQUABS A LA FLOTJKENS (Pigeonneaux a la Flourens), Procure eight squabs, draw, singe and truss as for an entree (No. 178), or one squab for each guest Chop up very fine eight ounces of beef marrow, mix with it eight ounces of butter, some chopped parsley, finely cut up chives, eight chopped tarragon leaves, a little crushed and chopped garlic, salt, pepper, four ounces of lean ham cut into one-eighth inch squares, four ounces of bread-crumbs and two whole eggs. Fill the squabs with this dressing and roast them either on the spit or in the oven for thirty minutes, basting them frequently. When done, untruss, dress in a circle and pour in a garnishing of sweetbreads and artichoke bottoms cut in three-sixteenth inch squares to which has been added some espagnole sauce (No. 414). Serve some of this sauce separately. (2010). SQUABS A L'IMPEOMPTU SAUTED (Pigeonneaux Saute"s a I'lmpromptu). After the squabs are prepared the same as for broiling, fry them in clarified butter, and when done, dress. Fry and cook colorless a teaspoonful of chopped shallots for each pigeon, add to it a little flour, moisten lightly with stock (No. 194a) and white wine, boil and skim; reduce this rapidly over a hot fire and just when ready to serve, incorporate a little fine butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley; pour this over the squabs and serve at once. (2011). SQUABS A LA STANISLAS-STUFFED (Pigeonneaux Farcis k la Stanislas). Fry eight ounces of bacon cut in three-sixteenth of an inch squares in butter, also as much fresh mushrooms sliced the same size, with a little chopped shallot and parsley. Fill the pigeons with this preparation and roast them. Have as many round truffles as there are pigeons, each one inch in circumference, peel and use the parings to pound with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and with this make some quenelles the shape and size of large verdal olives; poach and put them into an allemande sauce (No. 407) with a little meat glaze (No. 402), also the peeled truffles and some channeled mushrooms (No. 118). When the squabs are roasted untruss and dish up with the garnishings ranged around. (2012). SQUABS, AMEEIOAN STYLE STUFFED (Pigeonneaux Farcis a 1'Ame'ricaine). Have six squabs, draw, singe lightly and truss as for roasting (No. 179); fill the insides with an American bread dressing (No. 61), and cover the breasts with thin slices of fat pork; roast them either in the oven or on the spit; they take about twenty minutes when stuffed and fifteen when not. Dress and surround with slices of broiled bacon, pouring a little clear gravy (No. 404) around. (2013). SQUABS, OOLBEET SAUCE BEOILED (Pigeonneaux Grille's Sauce Colbert). Select small squabs and after they have been plucked, drawn and singed, clean them nicely and cut the necks from the bodies; truss with the legs thrust inside and split them down through the back the whole length as far as the rump; beat the breasts to have them quite flat, pare, then season with salt and mignonette; immerse them in melted butter and roll in bread-crumbs; then broil over a slow fire for about ten minutes, laying them with the breast side downward and turning them over as fast as they attain a good color, finish cooking and dress with some gravy (No. 404) poured over or else serve them on a Colbert sauce (No. 451); garnish around with slices of lemon cut in halves. (2014). SQUABS, ENGLISH STYLE (Pigeonneaux a 1'Anglaise). Truss eight squabs as for an entre'e (No. 178), wrap them up in bards of fat pork. Lay them in a saucepan lined with thin slices of ham and moisten to their height with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); cover with a round sheet of buttered paper and place the lid on tight. Boil andsimmer until the squabs are thoroughly done; which will take about twenty-five minutes. Prepare eight oval-shaped bread croutons, three inches long by two wide, make an incision all around a quarter of an inch from the edge and to half their depth, then fry in clarified butter, and empty out the center. Dress the squabs on these croutons, range on a dish and place between each a vegeta- 628 THE EPICUREAN. ble garnishing composed of carrots trimmed to imitate new ones, then blanched and cooked in broth; turnips shaped like corks with the edges rounded, then blanched and cooked in white stock (No. 194a), small green peas boiled in salted water with fresh mint, tossing with butter after draining, and string beans boiled in salted water and finished with butter, fill in the center with a fine cauliflower boiled in salted water and having butter noured over. Serve a York sauce (No. 563) separately. (2015). SQUABS, NEW YOKE STYLE (Pigeonneaux a la New Yorkaise). Have some squabs drawn, singed, cleaned, and trussed for an entree (No. 178); fry them white in butter and dredge over a little flour; fry for a few moments longer without browning, then moisten with beef stock (No. 194a); add a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, small onions, potato balls made five-eighths of an inch in circumference, and small half inch dice of bacon fried in butter. A few moments before serving, add some quenelles shaped to represent large verdal olives either of godiveau or else of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which mingle chopped sweetbreads and parsley; poach these in boiling water. Just when ready to serve, remove the parsley, thicken the stew with raw egg-yolks diluted with cream, and incorporate a piece of fresh butter, and dress the squabs in the middle of a dish with the garnishing around. (2016). SQUABS WITH TARRAGON (Pigeonneaux a rEstragon). After the squabs have been drawn and singed, split them lengthwise in two down the back, but do not separate the parts; beat lightly, and season with pepper and salt. Put two ounces of butter into a saute pan, and after it begins to heat, lay in the squabs, the breast side downward, and set it on a brisk fire; when browned on one side, turn them to do likewise on the other; they take about twelve minutes to cook. Dress and pour off half the butter in the pan, and to the remainder add a pinch of flour, stir well, pour in some clear gravy (No. 404), two tablespoonfuls of good tarragon vinegar, and salt; let the sauce give one or two boils, season it nicely, and pour it over the squabs. (2017). SQUABS WITH FIGARO SAUCE PRIED (Pigeonneaux Frits a la Sauce Figaro). Singe and draw some young, tender pigeons; truss as for an entree (No. 178), then wrap them in slices of fat pork. Butter a saucepan, line it with sliced carrots and onions, and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); lay the squabs on top. Moisten to half their height and let the liquid fall to a glaze, then remoisten and boil very slowly until cooked to perfection, adding half a bottleful of white wine, pouring it in at two or three different intervals. Let the squabs become cold, then split them in two, pare nicely and dip them in frying batter (No. 137), and fry to a fine color, having the birds well heated throughout. Drain, wipe off, and salt; dress them on a folded napkin with a bunch of parsley on top. Serve at the same time but separately a figaro mayonnaise sauce (No. 609). (2013). SQUABS IN EARTHENWARE.SAUOEPAN OR STUFFED-ROASTED (Pigeonneaux Rfitis a la Casserole ou Pigeonneaux Farcis Rotis au Four). In Earthenware Saucepan. Procure six squabs, draw, singe and truss well with the legs thrust inside, keeping them a pretty shape. Put two ounces of butter into a small earthenware saucepan and when hot, add the squabs and roast them in this over a good fire or in the oven; when done, drain and pour off the fat, detach the glaze with a little gravy (No. 404), untruss the squabs, put them back in the pan, dress, strain the sauce over them and serve in the earthen ware pan. Stuffed. Steep a piece of bread in broth and at once squeeze out all the moisture; lay it in a saucepan and add to it as much chopped beef suet, a few egg-yolks and one whole egg; stir this preparation with a spoon and season with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and onions. Break the breastbones of three young, drawn and clean squabs, fill the empty space with the prepared dress- ing and roast them quickly on the spit, basting over with melted butter. Salt over when ready to take out, untruss and dress on a dish, garnishing them if so desired with a little very green water-cress seasoned with salt and vinegar, and serve some gravy (No. 404) separately. POULTRY. 629 J019). SQUABS, BEEASTS A LA DUXELLE-STUFFED (Filets de Pigeonneaux Parcis a la DuxeM Pare eight to ten breasts of squabs; split them in two through their thickness without detach- ing the parts, but simply to form a pocket, fill this in with a little duxelle with raw truffles (No. 461), close the opening, season the breasts, dip them in beaten eggs mixed with cooked fine herbs, (No. 385) roll in fresh bread-crumbs and then in melted butter and broil over a slow fire. Dress the breasts crown-shaped on a dish with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) to which has been added butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley. (2020). SQUAB FRITTERS, OPORTO SAUCE (Beignets de Pigeonneaux, Sauce Oporto), Pluck, draw and singe some nice squabs, free them of all their feathers, cut off the stumps and pinions, then divide them in two lengthwise and afterward split them across on the bias to obtain two pieces from each, one from the legs and from the wings; lay them in a vessel and season with salt, whole peppers, nutmeg, thyme, bay leaf, sliced onions, lemon juice and a little oil, leave to marinate for two hours, turning them over occasionally, take each piece out and dip it in frying batter (No. 137), then plunge into very hot frying fat, drain, salt and dress them in a pyramid form on a folded napkin; serve separately a currant sauce (No. 455) with Port wine. (2021). SQUABS A LA CAROLINA (Pigeonneaux a la Caroline). Cut up some squabs after being dressed in six pieces each; have the same quantity of blanched terrapin of the same size; place them in a saucepan and moisten with half Madeira and half stock (No. 194a) ; season with salt and pepper and boil up once, then finish cooking in a slack oven for about thirty minutes; when done thicken the sauce with hard boiled egg-yolks pounded with as much butter and then passed through a sieve, add a little white wine and season highly. Koll well the meat in the sauce to have it thick, and serve the whole inside a border made of rice boiled in salted water, and fresh butter added, for ten minutes or until it ceases to crackle between the teeth, then drain and mingle it with a little bechamel (No. 409). Mold this rice in a liberally buttered plain border mold (Fig. 139), push it into the oven for a few moments, invert it on a dish, remove the mold and fill in the center with the stew. (2022). SQUABS A LA VESTAL (Pigeonneaux a la Vestale). Mix in with some veal godiveau (No 85) truffles, chives and parsley all well chopped; range this forcemeat in a plain well-buttered border mold (No. 139) and poach in a slack oven. Cut some squabs in four, fry them in butter to a nice color, drain off the grease, add allemande sauce (No. 407) and small mushroom heads; fill the inside of the unmolded border with this stew; bestrew over with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan; pour melted butter on it and brown the whole in a hot oven serving when of a fine color. (2023). TURKEY HEN (Dinde). The hen turkey is the female of the gobbler; it hatches on the ground and is very prolific. The meat of the hen turkey is far more delicate than that of the male, therefore it is more frequently selected for stuffing with truffles or chestnuts. In order to have it good it must be young and raised in the barn-yard. Its meat is better in winter time after leaving it hang for a certain period; it can be roasted or else cooked in its own gravy, both ways are excellent, but if old then it should be boiled. Wild turkeys abound principally in North America and feed on fruits and green acorns; their meat is far more delicate and succulent than that of the domestic turkey. The eggs are much liked either boiled or cooked in an omelet. (2024). TURKEY A LA CHIPOLATA STUFFED (Dinde Farcie a la Ohipolata). Select a small turkey not too fat but quite fleshy; bone the entire front part leaving the breast- skin as long as possible, also the thighs; diminish the thickness of the fillets and place these pieces where there is no meat so as to equalize the thickness of the meat. Season the inside of the breasts. Cut lengthwise two veal minion fillets and fry them in butter, season and throw over some cooked fine herbs (No. 385), then let get cold; mix in with these a few fillets of veal udder, and of cooked ham and truffles, also an equal quantity of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Fill the empty space with the garnishing and forcemeat mixed; press the forcemeat into the skin of the 330 THE EPICUREAN. turkey and let it assume its original shape; braise it for an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half on a very slow fire, and at the last moment glaze, drain off and untruss the turkey. Dress it on a rice croustade foundation (Fig. 9a) and surround with a chipolata garnishing (No. 657) into which a good espagnole sauce (No. 414) with Madeira wine has been added reduced with the braise stock; pour a part of this sauce over the turkey, and serve the remainder separately. (2025), WILD TTJKZEY A. LA DELAG-EANGE STUFFED (Dinde Sauvage Farcie a la Delagrange). Singe and draw a young wild turkey, then truss for an entree (No. 178). Prepare a dressing composed of bread-crumbs soaked in warm water and the liquid entirely extracted, season with salt, fine spices, sage, chopped onions fried in butter, and finely chopped beef marrow; add some roasted chestnuts, and broiled sausages free of skin, and cut into slices. When all the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, fill the turkey with it and braise in a saucepan garnished with bards of pork, and moistened with a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); when nearly done, glaze, drain, untruss, and dress on a layer of Piedmontese risot (No. 739); serve with bechamel sauce (No. 409) reduced with the mirepoix stock, thickening with raw egg-yolks and cream; when ready to serve incor- porate a little chicken glaze (No. 398), and a piece of fine butter. Pour part of this sauce over the turkey serving the rest in a sauce-boat. (2026). SMALL TUEKEY A LA FINANOIEEE LAEDED (Petite Dinde PiqnSe a la Financiere). The turkey represented in Fig. 385, the recipe of which is given below, is simply dressed on a rice croustade foundation (Fig. 9a), cut an inch and a quarter thick. Prepare a financiere garnishing composed of whole truffles, mushroom heads, large cocks'-combs and four large chicken quenelles molded on buttered paper and decorated with truffles; keep them warm. Select a good, small fleshy turkey not too fat, break the breastbone in order to draw it out, and fill up the empty space FIG. 385. with grated fat pork pounded with fresh truffle peelings; sew up the skin, truss it with the legs inside and lard the fillets and thighs with fine shreds of larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52). Put the turkey in a small braziere lined with fragments of fat pork, roots and minced onions; moisten to half its height with good broth (No. 194a) and reduce the liquid quickly to half, finish cooking the turkey quite slowly while basting frequently; at the last moment allow it to brown nicely in the oven. Strain and skim the stock, reduce it to a half-glaze, incorporating into it slowly some good espagnole (No. 414) that is in the act of being reduced, adding at the same time a few spoonfuls of good dry white wine. Untruss the turkey, dress it on the foundation and surround it with the prepared garnishings dressed according to the illustration; glaze the truffles and pour a little of the sauce over the cocks'-combs and mushrooms. Serve the prepared sauce at the same time as the releve which is intended to be placed on the table. (2027), TURKEY A LA SAETIGES-STUDDED (Dinde Oloutee a la Sartiges), Singe, draw and truss a ten pound turkey as for an entree (No. 178), stuff the insides with a quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) mixed with cooked fine herbs (No. 385); dip the breasts in boiling water to stretch the skin, drive twelve truffle nails into each fillet at equal distances apart and arranged symmetrically in rows of six each, then wrap the turkey in slices of fat pork fastening them on with a string. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with fat pork, lay in the turkey and moisten to a little above its height with a mirepoix stock (No. 419), boil, skim and cook in a moderate oven. When the bird is done drain it off and dress it on a rice foundation. Have a POULTRY. 631 garnishing of cocks'-combs truffles, quenelles, and cepes dressed in clusters around the turkey; strain and skim off all the fat from the stock, reduce it to a succulent sauce with some espagnole FIG. 386. (No. 414) added; pour a part of this over the garnishings and the remainder to be served separately with Spanish olives stuffed and minced mushrooms. (2028). TURKEY, AMERICAN STYLE-ROASTED (Dinde Rotie a rAmericaine). Draw, singe and truss a turkey weighing from eight to twelve pounds, selecting a very fresh one. Clean the insides thoroughly, having it well washed and dried, then fill with a bread stuffing (No. 61); wrap it well in strong buttered paper and lay it on the spit, running the iron rod of the spit between the loins and the string that is used for trussing the turkey; fasten the legs firmly to this rod and roast before a good fire for about an hour to an hour and a half. Fifteen minutes Before serving, unwrap the turkey, that is to remove the paper and let it assume a fine color while continuing to baste; it should be a golden brown and cooked to perfection. Dress and pour around a little gravy (No. 404) and then garnish with very green water cress; serve with a sauce-boat of cranberry sauce (No. 598). (2029). TURKEY, TRENCH STYLE (Dinde a la Prangaise). Choose a small fat turkey; draw, singe and clean it well, extracting all the pin feathers; break the breastbone, remove it and fill the breast with an Engish bread dressing (No. 61); sew up the skin underneath and truss it for an entree (No. 178); lay it in a braziere of the same dimensions as the turkey, having it lined with slices of fat pork, moisten to half its height with mirepoix stock FIG. 387. (No. 419) and let the liquid come to a boil; then cover the turkey with a thick buttered paper and cook for an hour and a half to two hours with the braziere well closed; simmer slowly while basting frequently. At the last moment drain off the turkey, untruss and dress on a rice foundation (Fig. 9a) surrounding it with clusters of cauliflower, mushroom heads, braised celery, glazed carrots and stuffed cucumbers, or else both, all being arranged in separate groups. Cover the breasts with some veloute 1 sauce (No. 415) reduced with the stock already strained and skimmed, serving at the same time a sauce-boat of the same sauce. (2030). TURKEY WITH OEPES (Dinde aux Oepes). Pick out four dozen good unopened cepes weighing about four pounds, having them fresh, sound, and of equal size; cut off and peel the stalks, chop them up and cook in butter with a little chopped onion. Prepare a fine hash with one pound ot veal, and one pound of fresh fat pork, sea- 632 THE EPICUREAN. soning it highly, add the chopped cepes and a handful of soaked and pressed out bread-crumbs. Crack the breastbone of a fat turkey, remove the bone and fill in the empty space with the prepared dressing, sew the skin underneath and truss for entree (No. 178). Lay the bird in a buttered stew- pan covering the bottom with small squares of bacon; surround it with the peeled and seasoned cepes heads, and a bunch of parsley; season and moisten with a quart of stock (No. 194a); baste the turkey with butter, salt well, and place it in the oven to leave until the moistening is entirely reduced, then moisten again to half its height with more stock; boil, close the pan, and keep it cooking in the oven for three hours, pouring in a little broth at times while basting it occasionally. At the last moment drain off the turkey to untruss and dress on a dish surrounding it with the cepes and bacon. Strain the stock, skim it free of fat, then thicken and reduce with some good bechamel, (No. 409) and a few spoonfuls of half-glaze (No. 400). Pour a part of this over the turkey and the surplus in a sauce-boat. (2031), TUEKEY TEUITLED AND GARNISHED WITH BLACK OLIVES (Dinde Truffle et Garnie d'Olives Noires). Have a fine fat tender turkey weighing about eight or ten pounds; truffle it three days before- hand with two pounds of leaf lard, three bay leaves, thyme, salt, pepper, a very little crushed and chopped garlic, and two chopped up shallots. Peel three pounds of truffles, chop up the parings, and place all together in a vessel, cutting the large truffles into pieces. Strain the melted lard ovei these and let get cold, stirring the whole well together with a gill of brandy, and season. Fill uj the turkey with this and insert a slice of thin fat pork between the breast skin and the meat; place on this fat pork slices of truffle. Truss for roasting (No. 179) and wrap in buttered paper; lay it on a cradle spit(Fig. 116), and cook for an hour and a half to two hours, basting frequently; unwrap it fifteen minutes before serving; salt and let acquire a good color. Dress on a long dish, garnish around with black olives, and serve separately some clear gravy (No. 404) taken from the drippings well skimmed and strained. (2032), TUEKEY WITH WHITE OYSTER SAUCE (Dinde a la Sauce Blanche aux Huitres). Truss an eight pound turkey to serve for an entree (No. 178), put it into a saucepan, moisten to cover and two inches higher with stock (No. 194a) and let boil; skim, season with salt, whole peppers, and a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf; boil this slowly for one hour or more until thoroughly cooked; when done, drain, untruss, and dress it either whole on an oval rice border, or cut up and placed inside a rice border. Serve the turkey with a white sauce (No. 562), or the same sauce containing small lightly blanched and well drained oysters and raw fine herbs. A part of the sauce should be poured over the turkey, and the remainder served in a sauce-boat. (2033), TTJEZEY GIBLETS A LA SALAMANDEE (Abatis de Dinde a la Salamandre). Bone the cleaned pinions and cut them into half inch squares; divide the neck at every joint and put all the pieces into a saucepan with clarified butter (No. 16); fry and besprinkle with flour, and cook again for a few moments; moisten with stock (No. 194a) and season with salt, pepper, a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), and some small onions. When the meats are done add the liver after frying it in butter, also some minced mushrooms; suppress the parsley and onions, thicken the sauce with a few egg-yolks, cream and butter, then put back the onions. Butter a baking dish, bestrew over with bread-crumbs and fill it with the stewed giblets; dredge bread- raspings and grated parmesan on top, pour over butter and brown under a salamander (Fig. 123), then serve. (2034). TUEKEY GIBLETS, PEASANT STYLE (Abatis de Dinde a la Paysanne). These are composed of the pinions, liver, neck, legs, heart, gizzard and head. Prepare a gar- nishing of turnips, carrots and onions; cut the turnips into clove of garlic shapes; the carrots are to be cut with a root spoon into three-quarter inch balls, and the small onions pared to the same size as the carrots, the three to be blanched separately for a few moments in salted water; drain the turnips and brown them in the pan over a good fire with butter, salt and a pinch of sugar; drain the carrots, cook them again in stock (No. 194a) and let fall to a- glaze as well as the onions. Take the giblets from two fresh turkeys, put the livers aside and clean the remaining parts; scald them sim- ply to stiffen, pare and wipe on a cloth. Cut in three eighths of an inch squares six ounces of bacon POULTRY. 633 without the rind, fry colorless in butter and when melted remove the bacon, leaving the fat in the saucepan, then put in the giblets and fry over a good fire while stirring with a spoon; season, and after the meats are nicely browned, besprinkle with a heaping spoonful of flour and let cook for a few moments, continuing to stir. Remove the saucepan from the fire and moisten the meats with a little stock (No. 194a) and a little white wine; stir the sauce until it comes to a boil and cover the saucepan; cook the stew over a good fire for six minutes adding a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123) and an onion. Pare the pieces, strain the sauce and return them to the saucepan with the sauce poured over; let cook for one hour then put in the carrots, turnips, onions and bacon. Finish cooking the whole together, and a quarter of an hour before taking from the fire put in the turkey livers without the gall, and finally skim the fat from the sauce; strain it into a saucepan, let reduce, season to taste and dress the pieces of giblet in a deep dish; surround with the turnips, carrots, onions and bacon, pour the sauce over and serve. (2035). TURKEY-GRENADES-A LA JULES VERNE (Grenades de Dinde k la Jules Verne), Raise and pare the fillets from one or two turkeys weighing eight pounds each; shape them into half hearts rounded on one side and pointed on the other; remove the skin and lard the tops with small lardons of larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), and then braise in mirepoix stock (No. 419) being careful to baste occasionally and to glaze toward the end so that they assume a fine color. Dress them on a rice socle placed in the center of a dish, pour over the strained and reduced stock, lay on top croustades made of thin foundation paste (No. 135), having them one inch and three quarters in diameter and filled with a fresh mushroom salpicon cut in quarter inch squares and fried in butter; then moisten with a little Madeira and let fall to a glaze; garnish around with half-spherical quenelles the same circumference as the croustade, having it decorated with truffles. Serve in a sauce-boat a veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with cream and butter just at the last moment. (2036). TURKEY LEGS ITH NOODLES, MILANESE (Ouisses de Dinde aux Nouilles a la Milanaise). Bone the legs of a young turkey, leaving half of the drumstick bone to use for a handle; fill up the boned parts with chicken forcemeat (No. 62) into which mingle finely chopped truffles and mush- rooms; sew up to inclose well the dressing. Line asautoir with bards of fat pork and lay the stuffed legs on top; moisten with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419), and braise slowly, basting and glazing until a fine color is obtained. Dress the legs on a garnishing prepared with noodles (No. 142) veloute sauce (No. 415), tomatoes, parmesan cheese and strips of red beef tongue and mushrooms added. A half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with tomato essence accompanies this dish, but it is served separately. (2037). TURKEY BREASTS OR FILLETS A LA DONOVAN (Ailes ou Pilots de Dinde a la Donovan). Raise the fillets or breasts from two turkeys, retaining the upper skin; fry them in butter and moisten with a little mirepoix stock (No. 419), then allow it to fall to a glaze; moisten once more and cook very slowly, barely moistened, so that when done the liquid is reduced to a mere glaze. Range the fillets in the center of a dish on a rice socle and garnish around with clusters of quenelles molded with a coffeespoon (No. 155), mushroom heads and small croustades filled with Montglas (No. 747). A half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira sauce to be served separately. (2038). TURKEY WINGS FRIOASSED AND BAKED (Fricassee d' Ailerons de Dinde au Gratin). Select a dozen and a half large young turkey wings; singe, bone as far as the first joint and remove the second joint; stuff them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) with fine cooked herbs (No. 385) and sew them up. Line a flat buttered saucepan with onions and carrots, slices of fat pork and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), range the wings on top larded across with two rows of larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52) or else leave them unlarded, and then moisten with stock (No. 194a), seasoning with salt and whole peppers, cover over with buttered paper and let boil. Push the saucepan into a slack oven and three-quarters of an hour after add six small onions for each wing, previously blanched in boiling water. When the whole is cooked take out both the onions and wings, strain the stock through a sieve, add to it some veloute" sauce (No. 415), and reduce together; thicken the sauce with raw egg-yolks and fresh butter, pass it through a tammy, 634 THE EPICUREAN. season to taste. Put a part of this sauce into a deep china dish capable of being placed in the oven, lay the wings and onions on top, and pour over the remainder of the sauce; bestrew with bread-crumbs and parmesan and let acquire a good color while in the oven; drain and serve the dish on another covered with a folded napkin. (2039). TURKEY WINGS WITH CELERY AND CHESTNUTS (Ailerons de Dinde au C61eri et am Marions). Take twelve scalded and very white wings without any pin feathers whatever, singe and bone all the fleshy first part, then soak them. Line a saucepan with slices of fat pork, lay on the wings and moisten with mirepoix stock (No. 419) placing more fat pork on top. For young turkey wings it will take three-quarters of an hour, but when the birds begin to get harder the wings require one hour or more cooking. Just when ready to serve, drain well and range them in a dish, strain, skim and reduce the stock, clarify, strain once more through a napkin. Havo some chestnuts braised with celery prepared as follows: Put some skinned chestnuts into a saucepan with as much celery stalks cut in inch and a quarter squares, having it already well blanched; moisten with stock (No. 194a) and cook on a slow fire until both chestnuts and celery can crush easily under a pres- sure. Reduce in a sautior a little espagnole sauce (No. 414) with the stock and pour it over the chestnuts, then finish cooking slowly, season to taste, and pour over the wings when ready. (2040.) TURKEY WINGS WITH RISOT STUFFED (Ailerons de Dinde Farcis au Risot). Choose two dozen large turkey wings; singe and bone as far as the second joint, leaving on the tip; fill up the empty space with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) with fine herbs and sew up the opening with thread; scald them in boiling water to stiffen, the skin and refresh to pare; range them in a sautoir lined with fragments of salt pork, onions and roots, salt over and moisten to half their height with stock (No. 194a); let fall to a glaze and remoisten to their height with more broth and a little white wine, cover with fat pork and finish to cook very slowly. Apart from this prepare a good risot with half a pound of rice and some stock (No. 194a); when done remove and finish with butter, parmesan cheese and two spoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549). Drain the wings, untruss and cut off the tips; dress the risot in a vegetable dish and the wings on top, pour some of their own stock over after skimming and reducing it well and serve remainder in a sauce- boat. (2041). TURKEY GOBBLER STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS (Dindon Farci aux Marrons). The gobbler turkey is a large-sized bird having a medium convex shaped beak and is specially known by the erectile mammilated carnucle or fleshy membrane covering its head and extending over a part of the beak and neck. The turkey's tail is provided with fourteen distinct feathers that can be raised in such a manner as to form a semi-wheel. Its plumage is of a fine black or green- ish color mingled with gray and white; they usually weigh from six to eighteen pounds. Draw, singe, pare, truss and remove the breastbone from a young gobbler turkey, the same as for roast- ing. Chop up ten ounces of kernel of veal and sixteen ounces of pig's leaf lard, both to be chopped separately then mixed together; season with salt and spice, adding a little shallot and the liver both well chopped. Put this into a mortar with a gill of stock (No. 194a), pound well, remove and place in a sautoir to cook for fifteen minutes, let cool and stir in sixty cooked chestnuts; stuff the turkey with this roast, dress and pour over a little good gravy (No. 404). (2042). SPRING OR YOUNG TURKEY, PUREE OF ARTICHOKES-LARDED AND ROASTED (Dindonneau Pique" et Roti a la Pnre"e d'Artichauts). A spring turkey by its delicate flesh is considered one of the most desirable meats, especially if stuffed with peeled Perigord truffles. The spit (Fig. 118) is the only manner worthy of cooking this bird; it is at its best when two or three months old. Dress two young turkeys, each one to weigh about six pounds; truss for roasting (No. 179) and singe them and lard the breasts with two rows of larding pork on each fillet and two rows on each leg (No. 3, Fig. 52). Three-quarters of an hour to one hour before serving roast them either on the spit or in the oven, basting frequently with butter? when done and of a fine color, salt them over and remove on a dish to untruss and carve, first detaching the two legs and fillet pieces; cut each of these in pieces, then glaze and dress. Serve with a separate sauce-boat of good gravy and a vegetable dish of puree of artichokes (No. 704). 635 (2043). SPRING TURKEY WITH TURNIPS WINGS (Pilets ou Ailes de Dindonneau aux Navets). Procure a spring turkey of about eight pounds; draw, singe and clean it well, suppressing all its pin feathers, remove the breasts with the skin and pinion bone attached; fry in butter some carrots, onions, lean salt pork, thyme and bay leaf, then moisten with stock (No. 194a). Line a flat saucepan or sautoir with bards of fat pork, strain the above stock and pour in a third part of it, add the fillets, and let the liquid reduce to a glaze, then add another third part and set the pan in the oven to cook while basting plentifully and adding more stock as fast as it reduces, finally glazing to a beautiful color. Aside from this blanch and cook some turnips in stock and sugar having just sufficient moisture that when done they have fallen to a glaze; they should first be cut into cork-shaped pieces with square angles. After they are finished cooking, put in a little meat glaze (No. 402) and fresh butter; strain the stock, remove its fat and reduce it with as much veloute sauce (No. 415), thickening just when ready with raw egg-yolks diluted in stock, and finishing by stirring in a piece of fresh butter. Lay the breasts in the center of a dish, with the turnips around and cover the whole with the sauce. ;2044). SPRING TURKEY WITH WATER-ORESS-ROASTED OR BROILED (Dindonneau Roti ou GrillS au Cresson). Draw a young spring turkey, singe and truss, bard it with thin slices of fat pork and let roast for half to three-quarters of an hour at a moderate, but well regulated fire, basting it over fre- quently with butter, at the last moment salt it over, remove, untruss and lay it on an oval dish pouring over a little of the dripping-pan fat well skimmed and strained through a sieve. Surround it with water-cress seasoned with salt and vinegar. Broiled Spring Turkey. Should it be a small young one, then prepare it the same as a chicken, the time of cooking depending upon its size; when done and of a fine color, dress on a hot dish and pour over some lightly melted maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581). (2045). PAUPIETTES OF YOUNG TURKEY, SOUVENIR (Paupiettes de Dindonneau au Souvenir). Kemove the nerves from the minion fillets, beat them lightly and cut into oblongs, season and spread over the surface a layer of well seasoned quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) into which has been mixed some chopped truffles, roll them cork-shaped and place in buttered tin paupiette rings ranged on a buttered baking sheet having the bottoms of the rings covered with croutons of bread fried on one side only and of the same dimensions as the rings, the unfried side resting on the buttered sheet; on top of each place a channeled mushroom head (No. 118) and cover this with a bard of fat pork, then cook in a slack oven. Have braised as many turkey legs as FIG. 388. there are paupiettes and when done to perfection, drain and cut them into small pieces; enclose each one of these in some quenelle forcemeat with cooked fine herbs (No. 385); bread-crumb, dip in eggs and fry to a fine color, then glaze. Dress the paupiettes in a circle, fill the center with the fried legs and serve with a separate cream soubise sauce (No. 543). ADDITIONAL RECIPES. G-A.ME (Gibier). (2046). BEAE STEAKS BKOILED (Tranches d'Ours Grilles). Bear's meat when young can be broiled and after it is cooked, has much the same flavor as beef. Cut some slices from off the thigh, season with salt and coat over with oil, then broil; when done dress on a sharp sauce (No. 538) with grated horseradish added. (2047), BLACKBIRDS A LA DEGEANGE (Merles a la Degrange). Procure eight blackbirds, draw and singe, suppress the feet and necks. Fry in butter some carrots, onions, ham and fat pork cut in three-sixteenth inch squares, also parsley, thyme, bay leaf and six chicken livers; when well cooked, lay aside to cool, then pound into a pulp with a little bread-crumb and seasoning; press this through a sieve and use this forcemeat for filling the black- birds; fry them in butter, drain it off and replace it by a little glaze (No. 402), lemon juice, chopped truffles, parsley and a little half -glaze sauce (No. 413). Dress the birds inside a rice border finished with butter and parmesan cheese, and pour the sauce over the birds. (2048). BOAE (WILD PIG) TENDEELOINS EOASTED, HAUNCH, EOBEET SAUCE, OUTLETS SAUTED (Sanglier (Cochon Sauvage) Ouissot Sauce Eobert, Filets Eotis Cotelettes Sautees), Only young 'ones can be used. They can be roasted without marinating, and as the meats are covered with fat it is useless to lard them. Roasted pieces are served from the haunch, saddle, tenderloin or loin, basted with its own gravy or else a very highly seasoned sauce. For the Haunch. After the boar is singed and well trimmed, scald it in boiling water, then saw off the end or handle bone an inch and a half from the knuckle bone and marinate in a cooked cold marinade (No. 114) or eight days; drain, wipe and wrap it in strong sheets of buttered paper, including the vegetables and marinade; lay it on a cradle spit (No. 116) or in the oven to roast for one hour and a half, more or less according to the size of the haunch or leg, being careful to baste every twenty minutes with the grease from the dripping pan. Ten minutes before serving unwrap and remove the buttered paper, also the cracknel; glaze the haunch in the oven and place it on a dish to trim with a fancy frill (No. 10), pour gravy (No. 404) around and serve a Eobert sauce (No. 533) in a sauce-boat. Boar's Tenderloins are prepared by paring, larding, marinating and roasting, then dressing on croutons and serving with shallot and fine herb sauce (No. 537). The Cutlets are pared and sauted drained and trimmed with frills (No. 10), afterward dressed in a circle; drain the fat from the pan, detach the glaze with white wine and espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduce; then strain it through a tammy and pour it in the middle of the cutlets. (2049). YOUNG WILD BOAE-QUAETEE-GAENISHED WITH OUTLETS AND BREASTS MAEINADE SAUCE (Quartier de Marcassin Garni de Cotelettes et de Poitrines, Sauce Marinade). Have a quarter of young wild boar very tender; suppress the rind and marinate in a cooked cold marinade (No. 114) for twenty-four hours; drain and wrap in several sheets of strong buttered paper. Put it in a roasting pan and cook it in the oven. Have the breasts braised, and when done bone and lay them under a light weight to get cold, then cut them into eight pieces paring each one to the shape of a half heart, then dip in eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry till hot and of a fine golden color. Trim eight cutlets, marinate them for twenty-four hours, drain, wipe and saute with clarified butter. Dress the breasts on one side of the quarter and the cutlets on the other, glaze them with meat glaze (No. 402) and cover the quarter with a little marinade sauce (No. 496), serve more of it separately with the boar, trimming the handle of the leg with a paper frill (No. 10) (637) 638 TFIE EPICUREAN. (2050). BOAE SADDLE AND QUAETEE EOASTED (Selles et Quartiers de Sanglier Eotis). Before roasting a saddle or quarter of boar is better to be sure that the animal is a very young one. The saddle tenderloin must not be pared as for venison, neither are the quarters pared; simply steep the pieces of meat for twenty-four hours in a cooked and cold marinade (No. 114). They are to be roasted in a very deep pan lined with fragments of salt pork and cut up roots, then basted over with butter. For a young boar it will take from an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half in a moderate oven. After removing it from the fire, dress it on a dish and unglaze the bottom of the pan with a few spoonfuls of the marinade; reduce the liquid for a few moments, then strain, skim off the fat and thicken the sauce either with some sauce or kneaded butter (No. 579); serve it in a sauce-boat. "With roast boar a light acidulated sauce is usually served, prepared with a little of its marinade; a saucerful of currant jelly is also its usual accompaniment. (2051), DOE BIEDS EOASTED AND BEOILED (Oourlis Eotis et Grille's). Small doe birds are the size of a large plover, having a long bent beak. It is a delicate game being slightly analagous to the plover; let set till tender then pick, singe and suppress the gizzard and crop without emptying out the insides. Truss them bent under like the plovers (No. 2119) bard over with very thin slices of fat pork and cook either on the spit or in the oven, or else broil; serve on canapes with clear gravy (No. 404) separate. Doe birds can be prepared in several ways, proceeding exactly the same as for the plovers. (2052) BLACKHEAD DUCKS EOASTED OE BEOILED (Canards Sauvages a Tete Noire Eotis ou Grille's). Pick the feathers from two blackhead ducks, and truss as described (No. 179); ^asten them on the spit then cook the ducks, if fine and large for fourteen or eighteen minutes before a bright fire. Untruss and serve them to the guests after cutting them up on very hot plates; serve currant jelly at the same time. For broiled blackheads see broiled canvasback ducks (No. 2054). (2053). BEANT DUCKS WITH CAULIFLOWEE VILLEEOI-EOASTED (Canards Sauvages Brant Eotis aux Chouxflenrs Villeroi). Brant ducks are prepared the same as blackhead ducks and when roasted, dress them on a long dish: garnish around with cauliflowers a la Villeroi (No. 2716), serving a separate poivrade sauce (No. 522) into which incorporate half as much fresh butter. (2054). OANVASBACK DUCKS BEOILED (Canards Sauvages Canvasback Grille's). Clean nicely and split through the whole length of the back, open entirely to have them per- fectly flat, wipe, trim and season with salt and pepper; coat over with oil and put them inside a double boiler sufficiently thick not to have them squeezed too tight; broil over a brisk fire for eight or ten minutes and as soon as done, dress on a buttered half -glaze sauce (No. 413) into which has been added butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley. (2055). OANVASBAOK DUCKS EOASTED GAENISHED WITH HOMINY OE SAMP (Canards Sauvages Canvas Back Eotis Garnis Avec Hominy ou Samp). Pick the feathers from some nice Havre-de-Grace canvasback ducks, each one to weigh three pounds, prepare them for roasting as described (No. 179), lay them on a spit to roast before a FIG. 389. brisk fire for sixteen to twenty minutes, more jr less according to their size; untruss and dress on to a very hot dish, surround with squares of hominy dipped in eggs and bread-crumbs, then fried, present them whole to the guests, remove to carve and place on very hot plates with a piece of hominy for each person. G^AME. 639 FIG. 390. Woodcock (Be"casse), FIG. 391. Quail-(Caille). FIG. 392. Plover (Pluvier). FIG. 393. English Snipe (BScassine Anglaise). FIG. 394. Prairie Hen (Grouse) (Te"tras). FIG. 395. Ptarmigan (Poule de Neige). 640 T.HE EPICUREAN. Hominy and Samp (Crushed Corn). Cook some hominy in boiling salted water, spread it on a baking sheet in a five-eighths of an inch thick layer and when cold cut it into oblongs one inch wide by two and a half inches long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color, then drain, salt and dress on folded napkins. Samp is a species of Indian corn crushed to the size of small peas; it should be soaked in cold water for several hours, then cooked in a covered saucepan with water, salt and butter for three hours, placed in a slack oven after it has boiled up once. Put it to cool on a dish, divide it into inch and three-quarters balls, flatten, keeping them thin on the edges and thick in the center, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry nicely to a fine color (2056). SALMIS OF OANVASBAOK DUOKS (Salmis de Canards Sauvages, Canvasback). Cook either on the spit or in the oven two ducks prepared for roasting (No. 179); when nearly done, untruss and divide each one into six pieces, cutting the breast in four and legs in two. (The legs are generally fibrous and tough.) Put all the pieces in a saucepan with their own blood and keep them warm in a bain-marie, having a lid on top. Put the fragments of the ducks, broken in pieces into another saucepan with a pint of red Bordeaux wine, half a shallot and a pinch of mignonette, let boil slowly until the liquid is reduced to half, then pass it through a colander into a sauteing dish, adding the same quantity of thick espagnole sauce (No. 414); reduce the whole until consistent, pass it once more through a tammy and finish by incorporating therein a tablespoonf ul of sweet oil and the strained juice of half a lemon. Pour this sauce over the cut up ducks and dress on the center of a dish, garnish around with half heart croutons hollowed out in the center and filled with minced celery parboiled and cooked in consomme (No. 189), cover with half -glaze and Madeira sauce (No. 413). (2057). OANVASBAOK DUOKS, BIGARADE SAUCE-BREASTS (Filets de Canard Sauvages, Oan- vasback, Sauce BigaradeX Prepare and cook the canvasback ducks the same as roasted (No. 2055) ; when still very rare, remove and raise the two fillets and divide each one into three pieces. Put them in a chafing dish with a little melted game glaze (No. 398), as much butter and the juice of half a lemon, roll them well in this to glaze and dress on a bigarade sauce (No. 435). <2058). CANVASBACK DUCKS WITH ORANGE JUICE, PORT WINE AND CURRANT SAUCE BREASTS (Pilets de Canards Sauvages, Oanvasback, au Jus d'Orange a la Sauce Porto et a la Gele"e de Groseilles). Roast the ducks the same as for roasting (No. 2055) keeping them very rare; raise the two fillets, one from each side of the breast and cut each one into two lengthwise pieces; put them in a chafing dish, pour over some bitter orange juice, also a little game glaze (No. 398) and brown poivrade sauce (No 522); serve separately a sauce made with currant jelly dissolved in port wine, heating it in a bain-marie, then strained through a fine wire sieve, surround with half-heart- shaped croutons of bread fried in butter. (2059). MALLARD DUOKS ROASTED AND BROILED-(Canards Sauvages, Mallard Rotis et Grille's). Draw two singed and clean Mallard ducks, wipe out the insides with a cloth and fill the empty space with some bread dressing combined with butter or chopped suet, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, and a few finely sliced green celery leaves, adding egg-yolks; truss (No. 179), and run a skewer through to fasten them on the spit, then roast basting over with melted butter or oil. The fire should be quite brisk, and if so, twenty minutes will be sufficient to cook them. Dish them up with sliced lemons around, and serve the gravy separately. Broiled. Mallard ducks are broiled and dressed the same as canvasback, the only difference to be observed is perhaps a modification in the time of cooking. (2060). MALLARD DUOKS WITH CELERY HALF-GLAZE-ROASTED (Canards Sauvages, Mallard Rotis au Celeri Demi-Glace). Truss some mallard ducks for roasting (No. 179), and when cooked dish up as the others. They maybe served either whole or else cut up into six pieces or the fillets only it they be whole; place the garnishing around; should they be dressed in a circle then fill in the center with a garnishing composed of cardoons or celery cut in half inch squares, blanched and cooked with chopped beef marrow also blanched, and afterward drained; put them into a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and let simmer for a few moments. G-AME. 641 (2061). SALMIS OF MALLARD DUCKS WITH MADEIEA (Salmis de Canards Sauvages, Mallard au Madere), Out two roasted wild ducks into six pieces; remove the skin and part of the bones, then divide the breasts and legs, suppressing the feet, and range them in a sautoir keeping it covered. Chop up the carcass, bones, and parings; fry a mirepoix (No. 419), and minced shallots with aromatic herbs, add to this the chopped carcasses and moisten with two or three gills of red wine previously boiled in a copper pan, and reduce it to three-quarters; again moisten to their height with stock (No. 194a) and continue to cook for twenty minutes; strain this through a tammy, remove the fat and return it to the fire and reduce, thickening with half-glaze sauce (No. 413), arid finishing with two spoonfuls of Madeira wine. As soon as it is completed, strain it over the pieces of duck, and heat in a bain-marie for a quarter of an hour. Dress the pieces on a dish, cover over with a part of the sauce and serve the remainder separately; surround with thin round crusts masked on one side with baked liver forcemeat (No. 81), and serve. (2062). EEDHEAD DUCKS A LA BAREDA (Canards Sauvages a Tete Rouge a la Bare'da). These ducks are first to be prepared the same as for roasting; put them in a pan, cover with good fat and roast them in the oven; add one gill of vinegar, a spoonful of powdered sugar, and mignonette pepper; baste the birds several times while cooking and salt over a few moments FIG. 396. before removing from the oven. Untruss and strain the stock, suppress all the fat, and place it in a sauce-pan with some espagnole sauce (No. 414) currant jelly, mixing the whole well together, pass through a sieve. Make a sour apple marmalade, drain properly and press it through a very fine sieve, stir in some unsweetened whipped cream; serve these two sauces separately at the same time as the birds. (2063). REDHEAD DUCKS, ROASTED AND BROILED (Canards Sauvages a Tete Rouge Rotis ou Grille's), Prepare the ducks as for No. 2059, lay them on the spit to roast for fourteen to eighteen minutes, more or less according to their weight; salt over, remove from the spit and untruss and serve on a very hot dish, or they can be roasted in the oven, putting them into a baking pan; pour a little fat over and set them in a hot oven; they will take a few minutes longer to cook this way, then serve on a very hot dish. Hand round separately on a folded napkin some hominy or samp the same as for canvasback ducks (No. 2055). Out up the ducks and serve on very hot plates. Four slices can be taken from each duck, two on each fillet and one or two of these served to one guest. Broiled. Have them prepared the same as the canvasback duck (No. 2054), then cook and dress exactly the same. (2064), REDHEAD DUCKS WITH PRIED OELERY( Canards Sauvages a Tete Rouge au Oeleri frit). Prepare and cook two redhead ducks the same as for roasting (No. 2063); dress and garnish around with celery prepared in two different ways. From four celery stalks, remove the outer branches, using only the white and tender ones; cut into four inch lengths half of the largest branches and blanch them as well as the four roots, peeled and cut in eight pieces then nicely pared; drain and put into a saucepan and cover to their height with a light ten degree syrup; cook 642 THE EPICUREAN. on a slow fire, drain through a strainer and dip each separate piece into frying batter (No. 137) and fry to a fine golden color, ranging them afterward on each side of the ducks. Cut the remainder or tender stalks lengthwise into fillets the size of a straw, dip them in frying batter, then fry slowly to a fine color; drain, salt over and use them for decorating the ends of the dish. Serve separately a brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with white wine pressing into it the strained juice of an orange. (2065). RUDDY DUCKS A LA HAMILTON (Canards Sauvages, Ruddy & la Hamilton). Prepare and cook the ducks the same as for roasted (No. 2066); detach the fillets without taking off the skin and range them at once in a sautoir, pour over some reduced espagnole sauce (No. 414) and a little good sherry; roll them in this off the fire and strain the juice of a lemon over. Dress the fillets in a circle on a poached and unmolded forcemeat border placed on a dish, and fill the insides with a garnishing of truffles, mushrooms, olives and cut up foies-gras; cover both fillets and garnishing lightly with the sauce and serve more of it separately after strain- ing it. (2066). RUDDY DUCKS, ROASTED (Canards Sauvages, Ruddy Rotis). This duck is roasted either on the spit or in the oven. Pick and take off all the down; singe, wipe and draw, then cut off the wings near the body, suppress the necks, turn in the feet and truss, the same as canvasback (No. 179). Put them to roast on the spit or in the oven for twelve to fifteen minutes according to the heat of the fire and the size of the duck, keeping them rare; take them off and serve with a little clear gravy (No. 404) poured over and garnish with quartered lemons; serve. (2067). TEAL DUCKS, BROILED (Canards Sauvages, Sarcelles Grilles). Split the teal duck, lengthwise in two through the back after cleaning well; pare and season with salt and mignonette; coat over with oil and place in a double broiler without pressing too tight. Broil over a brisk fire and serve on a good, rich gravy (No. 404) surrounded by slices of lemon. (2068). TEAL DUCKS, ROASTED (Canards Sauvages, Sarcelles Rotis). This is a small kind of wild duck, the meat being quite nutritious and of an excellent flavor the blue wings are preferred to the green. Prepare the teal (No. 179), roast before a brisk fire for ten FIG. 397. to fifteen, minutes either on the spit or allow the same time in the oven. When done to perfection salt over, untruss and serve on a hot dish either whole or carved, each one to be divided in four pieces. Dress the legs on the bottom of the dish with the breasts over, glaze, then pour into the bottom a little good gravy (No. 404); surround the birds with slices of lemon cut in two through the center. (2069). TEAL DUCKS A LA PONTCHARTRAIN, BREASTS (Filets de Canards Sauvages, Sarcelles k la Pontchartrain). Lift the breasts from four very plump raw teal ducks; keep on the skin and score this lightly; marinate these in oil with cut up chives, parsley leaves, salt, mignonette and lemon juice; let them remain in this for two hours and just when ready to serve, pour two tablespoonfuls of oil in a sau- G-AME. 043 toir, heat it up and put in the breasts; place it on a good fire, turning the pieces over when done on one side; drain and dress in a circle with half heart-shaped croutons between each piece, having them the same size as the breasts; cover the whole with a well-reduced buttered espagnole sauce, (No. 414) straining into it the juice of an orange. They can also be broiled, after scoring, seasoning and coating over with oil, then put into a double broiler without pressing and when cooked dress in a circle with croutons between each fillet and the same sauce as above poured over the whole. (2070), SALMIS OP TEAL DUCKS A LA HARRISON (Salmis de Canards Sauvages, Sarcelles a la Harrison). Koast some teal ducks as for No. 2068. Fry a shallot lightly in butter without acquiring color; add some raw chopped mushrooms, salt, pepper and nutmeg, then moisten with champagne and reduce with the following fumet and espagnole sauce (No. 414) to a proper consistency. Break up the carcasses of the birds, moisten these with broth (No. 194a) and cook for fifteen minutes, then strain forcibly; add to it some cooked ham cut in one-eighth of an inch squares and chopped parsley. The ducks must be cut in four pieces each, namely: two legs, two wings, each of these to be cut lengthwise; dress, mix the gravy and sauce together, pour it over and surround with heart- shaped croutons, then serve. (2071). GROUSE, PRAIRIE HENS OK PTARMIGAN, BROILED (T6tras, Poules de Prairie ou de Neige Grille's). There are two ways of preparing these birds for broiling; the first, or the one most generally employed is to cut off the feet at the first joint, also the neck, leaving the throat skin on as long as possible; split the grouse lengthwise through the back to open it entirely; remove the breastbones, fatten lightly and season with salt; dip them in oil and broil over a moderate fire, then dress on toast with clear gravy (No. 404). Another Way is after the grouse is picked, drawn and singed, truss with the legs thrust inside, and cut them lengthwise in two, beat lightly, pare neatly, season and dip in melted butter, then in bread-crumbs and broil in a double broiler on a moderate fire, turning them when well done on one side; dressed grouse can be cooked in either of these ways, being careful not to have the broiler too tight, and when dressed they may be covered with maltre d'hotel butter (No. 581) or else have a cold tartar sauce (No. 631) served separately. (2072). GROUSE OR PRAIRIE HENS ROASTED WITH GRAVY, FRIED BREAD-CRUMBS OR APPLE SAUCE (Te"tras ou Poules de Prairie Rotis au Jus, Mie de Pain Frite ou Sauce aux Pommes). Select some grouse and after picking, singeing and drawing, truss them without barding for roasting (No. 179), run a skewer through and fasten this firmly to the spit, then roast before a good fire or they may be put in a baking pan, smeared over with fat and roasted in the oven, but in either case they need basting frequently with melted butter. When almost done, salt them over and as soon as they are finished (which will take from twenty to twenty-five minutes), like all black meats these should be cooked rare, untruss and dress on a crouton of bread cut so that they stand plumb on it, and serve some clear gravy (No. 404) separately or replace it by apple sauce (No. 428), served the same, or a bread sauce (No. 438), may be substituted or surround with fried bread-crumbs prepared as follows: Brown some slices of bread in the oven and when of a good color and very dry, pound and pass through a fine wire sieve, mix these crumbs with a little butter, put it into a sautoir and set in the oven to fry until of a nice color. (2073). GROUSE OR PRAIRIE HENS A LA TZARINA BREASTS (Filets de Te~tras ou de Gelk nottesa la Tzarine). Remove the breasts from six fresh grouse or prairie hens, suppress the minion fillets and pare the larger ones prettily the same as chicken fillets, taking off all the skin; beat down to flatten and season with salt, lay them in a sautoir with cold clarified butter and cover with a buttered paper. With the minion fillets, and the breast parings, prepare game cream forcemeat (No. 75), have it nice and smooth and keep it cold. Butter a plain border mold (Fig. 139), decorate the sides with fanciful bits of truffle and lay it aside on ice. Prepare a garnishing composed only of fine and very white cocks'-combs, not having them too much cooked and place them in a bain-marie. With the carcasses of the breasts without 644 THE EPICUREAN. the legs prepare a good furaet, and strain it. Put on to reduce a few gills of good bechamel (No. 409) with a small bunch of green fennel, mushroom peelings and a spoonful of prepared red pepper (No. 168) and incorporate the fumet slowly into this; when this sauce becomes rich, but not too thick, strain and keep it in a bain-marie stirring it up occasionally. Fill the decorated mold with the crearn forcemeat pressing it in carefully, cover it over with a buttered paper and poach it for fifteen to twenty minutes in a bain-marie. At the last moment poach the fillets FIG. 398. over a brisk fire, turning them around and keeping them rare; two minutes will suffice for their cooking drain them off at once to pare and pour into this same sautoir one gill and a half of good game stock (No. 195), reduce the liquid to half with the butter and incorporate this slowly into the sauce. On the rounded end of each of the fillets lay an oval piece of cooked truffle covered with a thin layer of raw forcemeat to help fasten it on. Unmold the border on a dish, fill the interior with the well-drained combs and dress the fillets in a circle on the border. Cover them as well as the combs with a part of the sauce and serve the rest apart. (2074). HARE A LA OHATELAINE-STUITED (Lievre Farci a la Ohatelaine\ Skin arid draw a good hare, not having it too young, lard it with shreds of larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), make a hash with its minion fillets, the heart, liver and a few good cooked chicken livers, put this into a vessel and mix in an equal quantity of chopped fat pork, bread-crumb rasp- ings, chopped onions, one egg, salt and thyme. With this dressing fill the hare's stomach, sew up the opening, truss the shoulders, head and legs, then put it into a long braziere, having the bottom covered with fragments of fat pork, minced onions and roots, aromatic herbs and mushroom peelings, add two or three gills of white wine and cover with buttered paper; cover the pan and allow the hare to cook very slowly for two or three hours with fire over, and under or in the oven, adding a little broth or gravy from time to time. When the hare is three-quarters done, lift it out, strain the stock, skim it free of fat and thicken with a little brown sauce (No. 414), then boil again for five minutes. Pour this into the braziere, replace the hare and add two or three dozen fresh peeled mushrooms, then finish cooking all together. Dish up the hare, untruss and surround it with the garnishing and a part of the sauce, serving the remainder separately. (2075). JUGGED HAEE (Oivet de Lifcvre). To prepare this dish the hare should not be too tender; those are only desirable when eaten roasted. Skin the hare, draw it well reserving the blood in a small bowl with a dash of vinegar added. Separate the four limbs from the back, cut them up into medium-sized pieces and split the head in two, then cut the back across. Lay these parts in a vessel to season and marinate with a few spoonfuls of brandy, aromatic herbs and sprigs of parsley; leave them in this for five to six hours. Melt in a saucepan half a pound of chopped fat pork, add to it half a pound of bacon cut in flat squares, and as soon as these are browned, remove them with a skimmer, leaving the fat in the saucepan, and to it add the well drained pieces of hare. Fry over a very brisk fire stirring at times, and when the meats are well browned, besprinkle with two spoonfuls of flour; cook this while turning for a few minutes, then moisten the stew to its height, with a third part of good red wine previously boiled in an untinned copper vessel, and two-thirds of broth (No. 194a), adding both very slowly. Stir the liquid until it boils and let it continue thus for ten minutes; withdraw the sauce- pan to a slower fire, put in a bunch of aromatic herbs, two or three small onions and mushroom parings. Continue the cooking until the meats are partly done, then set a large colander on top of a vessel and pour into it the stew; return the sauce to a sautoir, adding to it a few spoonfuls of red wine, boil the same as before, add a few spoonfuls of gravy (No. 404) to enrich it, reduce for a few mo- GAME. 645 ments, skimming off the fat and put it back into the first saucepan. Take up the pieces of hare one by one, pare them free of all superfluous bone and return them to the sauce, all except the head, and add the bacon and the marinade the hare was in. Place the saucepan on the fire to finish cook- ing the meats very slowly; twenty minutes before taking off the stew, mix in with it two dozen mushrooms and finish cooking all together. At the last moment thicken the gravy with the blood laid aside, being careful that once this is added not to let it boil again. Dress the meats and bacon on a dish, strain the sauce over and surround with clusters of mushrooms and the same of small onions glazed separately. (2076). HARE'S BAOK BOASTED WITH OREAM (Rable de Li&vre Roti a la Orfcme). The hares used for roasting should be chosen particularly tender. Suppress the shoulders, legs, and neck, leaving the back whole; remove the fillet skin delicately so as to be able to lard the meats with larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52); season and lay the back in a small baking pan to mask over with Fio. 399. butter and roast in the oven for twenty-five to thirty minutes while basting at times. Drain off the back and dress it on a dish, pour off half the fat and put into the pan a few spoonfuls of half-glaze (No. 400); boil up for five minutes to detach the glaze from the bottom of the pan, then strain and let reduce for a few moments, adding a gill of raw cream; finish the sauce with a dash of vinegar. (2077). YOUNG HARE A LA OASTIGLIONE-SAUTED (Levraut Saut< a la Oastiglione), Cut a young hare into twelve parts; two shoulder pieces, four from the legs and six from the back and ribs, put these in a saut^ing pan and fry on a good fire with plenty of fresh butter; throw over some chopped parsley and mushrooms, two blanched and very finely chopped shallots, a little cooked ham either cut very small or in eighth of an inch squares, salt, pepper, and nutmeg; moisten with a pint of broth (No. 194a) adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, a little garlic, and a clove; cook on a slow fire, then finish in a slack oven in a hermetically closed sauce- pan, allowing it to be in for twenty to thirty minutes; remoisten as fast as the liquid becomes reduced, adding only a very little at the time so that when done there remains very little of the stock, and that has fallen to a glaze without adhering to the pan. After the hare is done, pour in two gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and half a gill of Madeira at the same time, suppressing the parsley, and finish with the juice of a lemon. Garnish around with heart-shaped croutons fried in butter. (2078). EPIGRAMMES OF YOUNG HARES A LA POLIGNAO (Epigrammes de Levrauts a la Polignac). Raise the fillets and minion fillets from two young hares; suppress the skin and nerves and cut the fillets slanting into two pieces each; beat lightly and pare them all into cutlet form; season with salt, pepper, fine spices and truffles cut in thin shreds. Mince the fragments of the meat, 646 THE EPICUREAN. add a third as much pork tenderloin and chop the two well together with as much chopped fat pork as fresh pork; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, adding some reduced espagnole sauce (No. 414). Divide this preparation into twelve parts, have as many squares of "crepine" or caul fat four inches by five spread out on a cloth, on each one lay half of its intended forcemeat, on top the pared cutlet-form fillet and then the remainder of the forcemeat; fold the ''crepine" or caul fat into an oval shape, lay them on a baking sheet, baste over with butter, bestrew with bread-crumbs and cook in the oven. Dish them up in a circle intercalated with cutlets made of very delicate hare quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) made with the parings, dip in eggs, bread-crumb over and then fry in olive oil. Pour into the center of the circle a little marinade sauce (No. 496) with chopped truffles added. The quenelle forcemeat cutlets can be replaced by others made of hare croquette preparation (No. 885). (2079). YOUNG HAKES' FILLETS WITH CURRANT JELLY AND RAISIN SA.UOE (Pilets de Levrauts k la Sauce de Gelee de Groseilles et aux Raisins). Pare and suppress the nerves from the fillets and minion fillets of two young hares; cut the larger ones on the bias to obtain two or three slices, flatten, pare into half hearts, season and put them in a buttered sautoir sprinkle over with butter. With the bones and fragments make a fumet (No. 397) and moisten it with skimmed broth (No. 194a), and when ready pass this through a sieve and pour it into a saucepan with a gill of vinegar, then reduce the liquid to a half-glaze, stir in some currant jelly, a piece of lemon peel and a handful of well-washed dry raisins softened in hot water. Push the fillets into a brisk oven and as soon as cooked add them to the sauce; dress, pass the sauce through a tammy and pour part of it over the meats, serving the rest in a sauce-boat. (2080). YOUNG HARES' PAUPIETTES WITH STUPFED OLIVES (Paupiettes de Levrauts aux Olives Farcies). Take the fillets and minion fillets from two young hares, suppress the nerves and separate them lengthwise in two; flatten all the pieces and then cut them up into twelve bands or strips an inch and a half wide by two and a half long; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Pass twice through the chopping machine (Fig. 47) a pound of the lean meats, cut from the legs and shoulders of the hare with as much fresh fat pork; when the whole is very fine add to it some cooked fine herbs (No. 385), two ounces of bread crumbs, one egg, salt and pepper. Spread a layer of this hash on each strip, roll them over on themselves and place in buttered paupiette rings. Make a fumet (No. 397) with the carcasses and fragments moistening it with white wine; reduce some espagnole sauce (No. 414) with this fumet, despumate it free of all fat and scum that arises to the surface. Cook the paupiettes in a sautoir lined with bards of fat pork, and moisten with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); when done, drain off and strain the stock, reduce it with the espagnole and fumet. Stuff some Spanish olives with anchovies, heat them in a little gravy (No. 404); dress the paupiettes in a circle, fill the center with the stuffed olives and place a channeled mushroom (No. 118) on each paupiette; cover with a part of the sauce, serving the rest in a sauce-boat. (2081). LARKS A LA MAREOHALE (Mauviettes k la Mare~chale). Bone and stuff about fifteen larks with a baking forcemeat (No. 81) mixed with a little raw forcemeat (No. 91) and chopped truffles. Form these into ball-shapes and wrap each one in a small piece of cloth; tie them up tight and cook in a very little clear stock (No. 194a); drain off to tighten the cloth. When cold, unwrap the birds and pare; lay each one inside of a large head of cepes or fresh mushrooms previously scooped out with a vegetable spoon. Lay these in a sautoir, pour over some hot butter and cook for ten minutes on a bright fire while covered, then baste with a few spoonfuls of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), cook again for seven or eight minutes on a slow fire, remove them with a pallet and dress on a dish; add two spoonfuls of Madeira wine to their broth and thicken it with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413), reduce for two minutes and then pour into the dish. (2082). LARKS BROILED (Alouettes Grilles). Take the larks well cleaned and picked, split them lengthways through the back, season and broil; three to five minutes suffice to cook them. Dress on canapes made of toasted oblongs of bread-crumbs, cover with game fumet (No. 397) made with quail and espagnole sauce (No. 414) that has been liberally buttered, then serve. G-AMil 647 (2083). LAKES, PERIGTTEUX SAUCE EOASTED (Alouettes Eoties Sauce P6rigueux). Roast without drawing, only removing the gizzard, singe and cover with very thin bards of fat pork and run a metal skewer through four of them, keeping them slightly apart so that the heat can penetrate between each one. They only require to be cooked from five to six minutes, then dress them on croutons of bread covered with liver forcemeat; remove the larding and pour over a Perigueux sauce with Madeira (No. 517). (2084). LAKES WITH KICE (Mauviettes au Riz). Singe, draw and bone about fifteen fine larks; spread them out on the table to season and lay in each one a ball of game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) mixed with baking forcemeat (No. 81) and a part of their own intestines, cooked, pounded and rubbed through a sieve; form the birds into ball-shapes and sew them up, then lay them in a saucepan with butter or melted fat pork; season and fry quickly for seven or eight minutes while turning them over; now remove them from the pan, leav- ing in the fat, and into this add two spoonfuls of chopped onions; fry and mix with it three or four spoonfuls of chopped raw ham; fry together for two minutes longer, then put in three gills of good picked rice without previously washing it; heat well while stirring and moisten with a quart of good unskimmed broth (No. 194a). After this has boiled for fifteen minutes, or when the rice be- gins to soften add the untrussed larks, a pinch of prepared red pepper (No. 168), a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123) and two spoonfuls of tomato puree (No. 730); cook both rice and larks moderately and finish by incorporating into it a generous piece of butter divided into small pats. Dress in a deep dish and pour over two spoonfuls of half -glaze sauce (No. 413) and tomato sauce (No. 549). (2085). PARTRIDGES, BROILED ENGLISH STYLE (Perdreaux Grille's a 1'Anglaise). Cut two tender partridges in two after they have been drawn and singed; cut off the legs to the height of the knee to slip them under the skin; beat lightly, suppress the surplus of bone, reason and bread-crumb them English style, rolling them in oil or melted butter, then in fresh bread-crumbs. Range these half partridges on a broiler, and broil for eighteen minutes over a moderate fire, turning them from one side to the other; serve with a sauce-boat of hatf -glaze sauce (No. 413) and sliced lemon around. (2086). PARTRIDGES, GIRALDA-BREASTS OR FILLETS (Ailes on Pilots de Perdreaux a la Giralda). Raise the breasts from four partridges; remove the skin and sinews and lift off the minion fillets; streak these with five slices of truffle cut the shape of a cock's-comb. Lay the large fillets in a buttered sautoir and the minion fillets formed into rings in another, filling the centers with quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) pushed through a cornet and on each one lay a small channeled mush- room (No. 118). Butter and decorate with cooked beef tongue, a plain border mold hollowed out on top (Fig. 139), fill it with partridge quenelle forcemeat (No. 91); poach in a bain-marie for half an hour first on top of the range and then in the oven. Prepare a fumet with the carcasses as in No. 397, strain and reduce with the same quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414) and a little Ma- deira; skim to free it well from fat, removing all the impurities arising on the surface. Saute" the fillets, poach the minion fillets, drain off the butter from the former and replace it by a few spoonfuls of Madeira to detach the glaze. Make a partridge puree with the meats picked from the birds, some rice and bechamel; rub it through a sieve and place it in a saucepan to season with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and nutmeg, adding plenty of butter. Invert the mold on the center of a dish, lift it up and place the fillets on the border with a fried crouton of bread to separate each one and pour the puree in the center; serve more of the sauce separately. (2087). PARTRIDGES A LA JULES VERNE-BREASTS OR FILLETS (Ailes ou Filets de Per- dreaux a la Jules Verne). Fasten a wooden foundation on a dish having it slightly sloped and channeled all around, then cover it entirely with cooked paste (No. 131). On the center of this foundation attach a tin basket covered over with more of the same paste, embossed and decorated with a pretty hanging border; the empty space in the basket is filled with a crouton of fried bread covered with a layer of the same paste. The three partridge heads must retain their own feathers and should be selected as fresh as possible-, to keep them in a proper position, penetrate the necks with a wire 648 THE EPICUREAN. sufficiently thick to uphold them thrusting the other end of the wire into the piece of bread pre- pared for this purpose in the basket; between each head is also fastened a small paper case filled with a truffle. Kaisethe breasts from five or six partridges without the minion fillets; suppress the skin, beat them to flatten and pare with the same care as is bestowed on a chicken fillet, then season and place them at once in a sautoir with clarified butter, at the last moment poach the FIG. 400. breasts over a good fire turning them around, they should be kept rare, then drained, wiped free of butter and on each wide end place a round piece of truffle cut out with a round cutter and covered on one side with a very thin layer of raw forcemeat to make it adhere. Dress these breasts in a circle the pointed ends downward on the paste-covered foundation cover them lightly with a little good veloute sauce (No. 415), reduced with partridge fumet (No. 397) and serve with a sauce-boatful of the same. (2088). PARTRIDGES A LA LUOULLUS-BREASTS OR FILLETS (Ailes ou Pilots de Perdreaux a la Lucullus). Eoast some partridges that have been wrapped up exactly as explained for a la Matignon (No. 2096); when done remove the breasts, pare and lay them in a sautoir with a little half-glaze (No. 400). Prepare a fumet (No. 397) with the parings and carcasses. Butter a plain border mold deep on the top (Fig. 139), decorate the sides with fanciful cuts of truffles and fill it entirely with partridge cream forcemeat (No. 75). Cut some raw artichoke bottoms into small squares, then blanch, cut some carrots into half inch diameter balls, and blanch them likewise, some turnips the same, blanching them as well, some small cooked mushroom heads and truffles shaped like a clove of garlic. First put the artichokes with some butter, add the carrots and turnips, and moisten with a little Madeira and the fumet; let cook slowly and when these three vegetables are done, then add the mushrooms and truffles; as soon as the liquid reduces entirely pour in some veloute sauce (No. 415) and toss the garnishings in it, adding small pieces of fresh butter; with this fill the hollow in the center of the unmolded border; glaze the breasts or fillets, trim them with favor frills (No. 10) and lay them on top of the garnishings; surround the border with small three- quarters of an inch balls made of foies-gras from a terrine pressed through a sieve, bread-crumbed, egged, then fried. (2089). PARTRIDGES A LA VE'RON-BREASTS OR FILLETS (Ailes ou Filets de Perdreaux a la Veron). Trim the breasts of four partridges, then range them in a sautoir with clarified butter, and salt over. Cook the legs in a small saucepan with some stock (No.l94a), let them get quite cold and then cut off the tenderest parts of the meats; pound these with the cooked partridge livers, two or three spoonfuls of cooked truffles and two spoonfuls of veloute sauce (No. 415); then press the whole through a sieve. Put this pulp into a saucepan with an equal amount of chestnut puree (No. 712), and two spoonfuls of good melted glaze (No. 398); season and heat without ceasing to stir and without letting it boil; finish with a piece of butter. Poach the partridge breasts, drain off the butter and pour a little sauce over; dress them in a circle on a dish alternating each one with a crouton of bread cut cock's-cornb-shaped and browned in clarified butter; lay the puree in the center of the circle, and cover over the fillets with a melted glaze applied with a brush. GrAME. 649 (2090). PARTRIDGES-MINCED (EmincS de Perdreaux). Remove the best parts from two breasts of roasted partridges, pare and suppress the skin and bones; cut the meat up into small, thin slices and range them in a small sautoir. Reduce a few spoonfuls of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with a little tomato sauce (No. 549) and a little Madeira, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with aromatic herbs; when of a good succulence, strain it over the meats and heat them up without boiling. At the last moment dress the slices on a small, long dish and cover with the sauce; surround with a row of large, stuffed Spanish olives heated in a little of the sauce, but they should not boil. Minced Pheasant Woodcock or Duckling may be prepared exactly tht same. The olive gar- nishing can be replaced by a row of small slices of red beef tongue, or else stuffed and baked artichoke bottoms, each one cut in two. (2091). PARTRIDGE MINCED WITH RICE (EmincS de Perdreaux au Biz). Cut in slices the breasts of two roast partridges; if very tender take also the thick thigh part and pare the slices neatly; range them in a sautoir with two or three minced truffles and cover with half-glaze sauce (No.413); keep the meats warm in a bain-marie. At the last moment dress the mince and truffles in the center of a risot border inverted on a dish, or else the stew can be served alone and surrounded with a row of oval game quenelles, poached, cut in half across, breaded and fried, and set on the flat end. Even these quenelles can be replaced by small hollow bread crusts cut either into triangles or half circles and covered with a salpicon of truffles. (2092). SALMIS OF PARTRIDGES (Salmis de Perdreaux). Pick, singe, draw and truss four partridges as for an entree (No. 178); roast them either on the spit or in the oven; they will require half an hour to cook, remove, untruss and let get partly cold, then cut them up into five pieces each; the two legs, two fillets and one breast piece; suppress all the skin covering each member and put them into a saucepan with buttered paper over and cover with the lid; keep either in a bain-marie or else at a moderate heat. Break up the bones, put them into another saucepan and moisten with a pint of broth (No.l94a) and a pint of Chablis, leave it on the range until it boils, then add a pint more broth and let cook very slowly for half an hour, being careful to skim off all the fat as it arises to the top, then strain through a napkin. Fry in butter a little chopped shallot, thyme, bay leaf and whole peppers, moisten with the stock and reduce with as much espagnole sauce (No. 414) stirring well from the bottom with a spatula to prevent it adhering thereto. After this sauce is well reduced, pour it through a tammy and put one-third of it with the pieces of partridge. Fry sixteen half heart-shaped croutons in butter; dish up the salrnis putting the legs at the bottom on top of bread croutons, cover these lightly with the sauce and lay the wings and breasts between intermingling in the other croutons and in the intersections formed by them, dress some turned and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118) and cut up truffles. Incorporate a few spoonfuls of good oil into the remainder of the sauce and pour it over the salmis. (2093). PARTRIDGES A LA BAUDRIMONT (Perdreaux a la BaudrimonU Roast two partridges; untruss and set aside to cool, remove breast meats in a way to form a hollow in the shape of a case, cut the meats into three-eighths of inch squares; prepare an equal quantity of mushrooms cut the same, as much ducks' livers and some small partridge quenelles made with a coffeespoon (No. 155). Put a gill of Madeira into a saucepan, heat it well without boiling and let a piece of Ceylon cinnamon infuse therein for half an hour, take this out, then add some espagnole sauce (No. 414) and reduce the whole; throw in the salpicon and when all is cold, use it to fill the partridges, having the breasts nicely rounded; cover over with quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), smooth neatly and cover the whole with melted butter; bestrew bread-crumbs and parmesan over and brown in a moderate oven, being careful to baste occasionally while cooking. Arrange the partridges on a dish, glaze with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and serve a financiere sauce (No. 464) apart. (2094). PARTRIDGES A LA CHARTREUSE (Perdreaux a la Chartreuse). Blanch two cabbages each cut in four and the core removed; drain and divide them into small clusters, press out all the water and braise them with a piece of bacon of about ten ounces that has been previously parboiled. Prepare a garnishing of carrots and turnips, blanch and then cook 650 THE EPICUREAN. them in broth to allow finally to fall to a glaze; have also some quenelles made with a coffee- spoon (No. 155). Fry in butter or melted fat pork, two trussed partridges, season and when of a fine color, drain them off, make a hollow in the middle of the cabbage in the saucepan and lay the partridges in, and finish cooking all together. As soon as the birds are done, drain them off and keep them warm in a saucepan with a little half-glaze (No. 400), drain off also the bacon and cabbage, extract all the fat from the latter and dress half of it in the center of a dish, lay the partridges on top and surround with the rest of the cabbage, the carrots, the turnips and the que- nelles all in separate clusters. Glaze the partridges over with a brush and serve with a sauce- boatful of the half-glaze from the saucepan. Another Way. Decorate a timbale mold with carrots and turnips, upholding the decorations with a layer of thick game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91). Cut up the partridges and fill the mold with the cabbage, the bacon and the partridges, place it in a santoir containing water and put in the oven for half an hour; unmold, pour part of the sauce around the chartreuse and serve. A half-glaze sauce (No. 413) should be served separately at the same time. (2095). PAETEIDGES A LA MAELY (Perdreaux k la Marly). Have two partridges, truss them as for an entree fNo. 178), and fill them with well seasoned partridge quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), into which mix truffles and cooked beef tongue cut in three- sixteenth of an inch squares; tie thin slices of fat pork over and braise in a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); strain this and put the fat back into the saucepan to keep the birds warm therein. Raise the fillets from the breast of a raw partridge, remove the sinews and cut the meats into escal- ops; saute them in butter without browning, drain off the butter, remove the meats and keep them warm in this. Put half a pint of the stock used for cooking the partridges into a sautoir with as much allemande sauce (No. 407), reduce and add some cut up truffles and mushrooms; the sauted part- ridge escalops, a little fresh butter and lemon juice. Dress the partridges on the bottom of a dish, place the garnishing around, and outside of it lay some crescent-shaped game croquettes (No. 885). <2096). PAETEIDGES A LA MATIGNON, GAENISHED WITH "PAINS" A LA MONTGLAS- (Perdreaux a la Matignon Garnis de Pains k la Montglas). Prepare and truss two partridges as for an entree as in No. 178. Wrap the two partridges with dry matignon (No. 406) in several sheets of paper; roast and when done, unwrap and place the matignon in a saucepan with some clear gravy (No. 404) and espagnole sauce (No. 414) ; reduce, despumate and strain through a tammy. Butter twelve mousseline molds (No. 1, Fig. 138), deco- rate them with fanciful cuts of truffles, and cover the entire inside with a layer of partridge que- nelle forcemeat (No. 91), filling the center as far up as the edges with a montglas prepared as follows: Cut off the white meats from half of a roasted partridge; have as many mushrooms heads cut the same size, and half as many truffles as mushrooms, also as much cooked beef tongue as truffles; mingle these with a little supreme sauce (No. 547), when the molds are full finish with more forcemeat. Put some boiling water in a saucepan to reach to a third of the height of the molds and poach these in a slack oven for fifteen to twenty minutes. Dress the partridges, glaze and lay them on top of an oval rice foundation (Fig. 9a); unmold the montglas pains around, and cover over with some of the sauce having the rest served apart. (2097). PAETEIDGES A LA SOYEE (Perdreaux a la Soyer). Make a forcemeat with the partridge livers and a few chopped chicken livers; knead in a piece of butter, pepper, salt, a little shallot previously fried lightly in butter and chopped parsley. Have two trussed partridges (No. 179); put about two ounces of this prepared forcemeat into each one, and cook them on the spit for half an hour; dress on canapes, and pour some clear gravy (No. 404 j under. Serve separately the same time as the partridges an English bread sauce (No. 438). (2098). PAETEIDGES BEAISED A LA MOLIEEE (Perdreaux Braise's a la Moliere). Truss three partridges as for an entree (No. 178); cover the breasts with slices of lemon and these with bards of fat pork. Line a flat saucepan with the fragments of pork, some ham, cut up vegetables and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; lay the partridges on top and moisten with half a pint of dry white wine and half a pint of stock (No. 194a); boil this liquid, skim and continue to boil slowly either on the side of the range or in the oven until the partridges are cooked then drain and untruss. Cut each one up into five parts and arrange them in a saucepan to keep warm in a bain-marie with the fat OAME. 651 drained from the first saucepan; in the stock place the broken carcasses, moisten with half a pint of clear gravy (No. 404) and half a glassful of Madeira, boil up, then strain through a sieve and reduce again to half, thickening it with some veloute sauce (No. 415); pour this over the cut up partridges and keep the whole warm. Prepare a partridge quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) mold it with a tablespoon the same as explained in No. 733, and range these quenelles in a buttered sautoir, decorate with truffles and poach. Dress the partridges on a forcemeat foundation (Fig. 8) without the central support and garnish around with the quenelles, cover with a little supreme sauce (No. 547) serving a sauce-boatful of it separately. (2099. PAETEIDGES BKOILED-COLBEKT SAUCE (Perdreaux Grille's Sauce Colbert). After the partridges have been well cleaned, split them lengthwise through their backs; cut off the feet and slip the legs under the skin; beat, pare carefully, season with salt and pepper and dip them in melted butter and broil over a slow fire; serve when done either on a Colbert sauce (No. 451) or a hunter's sauce (No. 480) or else a tartar sauce (No. 631). (2100). PAETEIDGES TEUFFLED AND EOASTED (Perdreaux Trunks etEotis). Draw two young partridges, wipe them well and singe. Peel five or six raw truffles, cut them in four and season; chop up the peelings and pound them with fresh fat pork, adding to it the cooked partridge livers with two or three pullet livers; season the preparation and press it through a sieve. Melt a quarter of a pound of grated fat pork, add to it the cut up truffles, season and warm up for a few seconds while tossing over the fire, then mix them in with the forcemeat. After this preparation has cooled off, use it to fill the partridge breasts and bodies; sew up the openings, truss and cover or else lard them with fine larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), fasten them on the spit and roast for fifteen to twenty minutes in front of a good fire, basting over with butter. As soon as they are done sprinkle salt over and remove from the spit; untruss and dress each one on a large crust of bread browned in butter and laid on an oval dish; surround the partridges with sliced lemons only, serving water-cress separately, also some clear gravy (No. 404). (2101). PAETEIDGES WITH CABBAGE (Perdreaux aux Choux). Dress four partridges, truss them for an entree as in No. 178, and plunge the breasts in boiling water to stiffen the skin, then lard with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52). Blanch for fifteen minutes four medium cabbages after removing the heart or core, and part of the green leaves; re- fresh, drain and press out every particle of water, then divide each quarter into two, remove the thick stalks, season lightly with salt and pepper, roll in thin slices of fat pork, tie with a string; put them into a braziere (Fig. 134) with the partridges and a pound of bacon cut in two equal-sized pieces and blanched for ten minutes; add also a one pound sausage, four medium carrots cut lengthwise in four, two onions, one having two cloves stuck in it, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. Moisten with some stock (No. 194a) adding a little chicken fat; let cook, and after it comes to a boil finish in a slack oven for thirty to forty minutes. If the partridges be old ones they require one hour and a half to cook; remove them from the braziere, also the sausages and bacon which must be put under a light weight to cool off; it will take fully three hours to cook the cabbages. Have four dozen small carrots cut in pear-shapes and as many turnips of cylindrical form, two inches long by half an inch in diameter, round the ends neatly, then blanch, cook and let fall to a glaze separately. Half an hour before serving return the partridges to the cabbages and keep the whole warm. Cut the bacon into large three-fourths of an inch squares, the sausages into slices, and put both these into a sautoir with a few spoonfuls of the cabbage stock so that they keep hot until ready to serve; drain the cabbages through a colander, pressing it lightly to form into a socle on the bottom of the dish, laying the four untrussed partridges on top in a square, placing two clusters of carrots and two of turnips, alternated with the slices of sausages between the partridges, having the bacon in the center on top. Cover the partridges only with a half- glaze sauce (No. 413), and serve some of the same sauce separately. (2102). PAETEIDGES LAEDED AND EOASTED WITH GEAVY AND WATEE-OEESSES (Perdreaux Piques Eotis au Jus Garnis de Oresson). Prepare and truss the partridges for roasting as explained in No. 179; dip the breasts into boiling water to stiffen the skin, and lard with small lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52). Lay them on the spit to roast, salt over and untruss a few moments before serving; glaze and dress on a canape 652 THE EPICUREAN. and surround with water-cress, sewing at the same time a sauce-boatful of partridge fumet (No. 397) or clear gravy (No. 404). They can be barded instead of larded by covering their breasts with a thin slice of fat pork, tying it on with three rounds of string; roast and dress the same as the others. An ounce of good butter may be placed inside of each bird before cooking. (2103). PARTRIDGES WITH OLIVES (Perdreaux aux Olives), Lard two good-sized partridges with fine larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52), and put them into a narrow saucepan lined with fragments of the same pork, minced roots and onions; season and moisten with a little white wine, then reduce to a glaze. Cook the partridges in very little moisture with stock (No. 194a), having it fall several times to a glaze. After the partridges are nicely done, drain them off to untruss. Strain the stock, skim off its fat and reduce, then incor- porate it into brown sauce (No. 414) in the act of being reduced with two spoonfuls of Madeira added at the same time. Dress the partridges on a dish, surround with a garnishing of olives stuffed with baked forcemeat (No. 81). then poached and covered over with some of the sauce; serve the rest in a sauce-boat. (2104). PARTRIDGE WITH SAUERKRAUT (Perdreau a la Choucroute). Cut a roast partridge into small pieces and lay them aside. With the game bones and parings some aromatic herbs and white wine, prepare a small quantity of concentrated fumet (No. 397) ; thicken it with very little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and keep it in a bain-marie. Cook some good sauerkraut with a small piece of bacon, proceeding as for garnished sauerkraut (No. 2819), adding a piece of butter divided into small pats, dish it up and form a hollow in the center; into this dress the pieces of game, pour over the sauce, cover with the sauerkraut and surround this with the bacon cut in slices. FIG. 401. (2105). BEEASTS OR FILLETS OF PHEASANTS WITH TRUFFLES (Ailes ou Filets de Faisans aux TrufFes). Kaise the breasts from six pheasants; remove the minion fillets, pare the large ones into half hearts after suppressing the skin and lay them in a thickly buttered saute pan and cover over with melted butter; place the minion fillets in a smaller saute" pan after removing the thin skin GAME;. 653 that covers them also the sinews: streak them by cutting six bias incisions on the surface and filling these with half circles of channeled truffles and finish by giving them the shape of a ring; cover over with very thin bards of fat pork or else buttered paper. Make a fumet (No. 397) with the parings and legs, suppressing the rump, and add to it carrots, onions and a garished bunch of parsley (No. 123), moisten with a pint of stock (No.l94a) and two gills of Madeira and let this come to a boil and continue the ebullition process very slowly for one hour and a half, strain through a napkin and separate it into two parts, reduce one of these to the consistency of a light glaze and to the other add as much veloute sauce (No. 415) that is being reduced. Escalop one pound of fine truffles, put them in a bain-marie with a little meat glaze (No. 402), Madeira and as much fine butter, close the receptacle well and keep hot for at least fifteen minutes. Just when prepared to serve, saute the pheasants 1 breasts; finish cooking them in a slack oven and when the larger fillets are done drain off the butter, being careful to retain the glaze, detach this with a little Madeira and add some veloute sauce (No. 415) and fresh butter; dress the large fillets in a circle, cover with half of the above sauce and on the large ones lay the smaller ones, brush over with meat glaze (No. 402), pouring the truffles in the center; serve the other half of the sauce separately. (2106). SALMIS OP PHEASANT A LA LORENZO (Salmis de Paisan a la Lorenzo). After the pheasant has been roasted the same as for No. 2107, cut it up into six or eight pieces; pare these nicely, removing all the skin, put them into a saucepan with half a pint of red or white wine, two shallots cut in three-eighths inch squares, the peel of a bitter or an ordinary orange and that of a lemon, all cut in small fillets and then blanched; add a pint of espagnole (No. 414) and a few spoonfuls of game glaze (No. 398). Pound the parings, rub through a sieve and add this pulp to the sauce, heat it up without boiling and keep it warm in the same way in a bain-marie. Dish up the pheasants, squeeze the juice of a bitter orange into the sauce and pour it over the dressed birds, garnish around with bread-crumb croutons cut in heart-shapes and fried in butter and small game croquettes prepared as for No. 885. (2107). PHEASANTS ADOENED WITH THEIR OWN PLUMAGE-ROASTED (Faisans R6tis Garnis de Leur Plumage). The pheasant's head can be preserved in advance and also keep carefully the wings and tail intact. Pick the pheasants, singe, draw and truss for roasting (No. 179); bard them over and roast either on the spit or in the oven, basting frequently while cooking; when done, take off, untruss and dress on top of trimmed croutons hollowed out in such a way that the pheasants can stand well on them; glaze over and decorate with their own plumage, keeping it in place with metal skewers and letting them appear natural and lifelike; surround with clusters of water-cress. Strain and skim the fat from the dripping-pan stock and dilute it with some clear gravy (No. 404); pour a third of it over the pheasants and the other two-thirds serve in a sauce-boat. (2108). PHEASANTS A LA MONTEBELLO (Faisans a la Montebello). Cut into quarter inch squares, three-quarters of a pound of cooked duck's livers, and a quarter of a pound of truffles, season with salt and pepper, add half a pound of butter and put this equally inside of two pheasants; truss them for an entree (No. 178), and cover with bards of fat pork; place them in an oval braziere saucepan (Fig. 134), and moisten with half a pint of champagne and a pint of mirepoix stock (No. 419). Cook on a slow fire or in the oven for three-quarters of an hour. Prepare a garnishing to be composed of escaloped and braised foies-gras, eighteen large truffles, fourteen double cocks'-combs, and fourteen fine cocks'-kidneys. Just when ready to serve drain off the pheasants and untruss. Have already prepared a conical-shaped piece of bread-crumbs, four and a half inches long by three inches wide, and eight inches high; made for the purpose of upholding the birds; form a hollow on each side near the top to enable the pheasants to be placed therein; fry this piece of bread to a fine color, and paste it on the dish. Place the birds in an incline inside this hollow space with the breasts uppermost, and then garnish all around with the truffles, livei-s, and kidneys, so that the bread is completely covered; trim five skewers with some of the truffles and the cocks'-combs (Fig. 11); stick two of them in each pheasant, and one on the summit of the bread; cover the whole with espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with the essence of truffles, and serve more of it in a separate sauce-boat. 654 THE EPICUREAN. (2109). PHEASANT A LA PERIGUEUX (Faisan & la Pengueux). Have a good pheasant not too gamey; break the breastbone and fill the empty breast with liver baking forcemeat (No. 64), mixed with a salpicon of cooked truffles. Truss it with the legs thrust inside and cover the breast with a dry mirepoix (No. 419) wrap it in a half sheet of buttered paper tied on with a string. Fasten the pheasant on the spit and let roast for fifty to sixty minutes before a good fire while basting, then take it off, untie and dish it up, cover- ing it with a Perigueux sauce (No. 517). Serve some of the same sauce separately. (2110). PHEASANT TRUFFLED-BOASTED (Faisan Truffe" Roti). Choose a good, fat, well set, and tender pheasant; after it has been drawn and well cleaned, fill its inside and breast with raw, peeled truffles, slightly fried in melted fat pork, and seasoned, proceeding the same as for truffled pullet (No. 1992). Lard the pheasant or else wrap it up in fat pork; thrust a small skewer through in order to fasten it to the spit and roast for fifty to sixty minutes according to its tenderness, basting it over with butter. As soon as it is done, detach the bird, untruss it on a dish or else on a thick oval slice of bread browned in butter. Serve with a separate sauce-boat of clear gravy (No. 404) and some water-cress. (2111). PHEASANT WITH TRUFFLES-LARDED (Faisan Pique' aux Truffes). Break the breastbone of a clean pheasant to facilitate the removal of the bone, and fill up the empty space with baking forcemeat (No. 81) mixed with a little raw forcemeat (No. 91), and raw, chopped truffles added; sew the skin underneath the breast and truss with the legs pushed in the thigh; this is done by removing the drumstick and pushing the leg bone back into this space; put the pheasant in a narrow saucepan lined with fat pork, salt over and besprinkle with melted butter. Cook for forty-five minutes while covered, basting over frequently, and lastly glaze it, then drain. Untruss it on a rice foundation (Fig. 9a) poached on a dish and surround this with round, peeled truffles cooked in wine; pour into the bottom of the dish a few spoonfuls of brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with the truffle liquid and a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine. Accompany this entree with a sauce-boatful of the same sauce. (2112). WILD PIGEON OR SQUABS POUPETON, ANCIENT STYLE (Poupeton de Pigeons Ramier ou de Ramereaux k 1'Ancienne). Chop up half a pound of veal with half a pound of beef marrow and half a pound of fat pork; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; pound all together, mixing in four ounces of soaked and well pressed bread-crumbs, two whole eggs, some chopped mushrooms fried in butter and chopped pars- ley. Lay a buttered flawn ring eight inches in diameter on a sheet of buttered paper; fill the bottom and sides with the forcemeat (No.81) and in the center lay a stew made of six wild pigeons prepared as explained below. Cover the top with more of the forcemeat, having it bomb-shaped, egg over and cook in a moderate oven. For the wild pigeon stew, truss the pigeons as for an entree (No. 178); brown them in butter with escalops of uncooked sweetbreads, some ham or bacon cut in five-eighths squares and blanched mushrooms, also a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123). Dredge three tablespoonfuls of butter over the whole and let it attain a fine color; then moisten with white wine and stock (No. 194a). When the birds are cooked suppress the parsley, reduce and thicken the sauce, adding the juice of a lemon; put it into a vessel to get cold and then cut the birds lengthwise in two, pare neatly and use for filling the inside of the poupeton. Wild Squabs are roasted or broiled the same as tame squabs. See No. 2018. (2113). GOLDEN PLOVER OR GRASS PLOVER AND BUSTARD PLOVER (Le Pluvier ou le Vanneau). Plover's meat is of a very delicate taste; it excites the appetite and digests easily. Plover are eaten larded or barded after being drawn and then cooked on a brisk fire. The golden and the bustard plover are very much alike, living in the same localities, eating the same food, and their meats are almost similar. Golden plover's eggs are used the same as bustard plover, but are con- sidered much inferior. 655 (2114). PLOVERS A LA MONTAUBAN (Pluviers a la Montauban). Draw, singe and clean the plovers, thrust the legs inside and split them lengthways through the back; open, beat and season with salt and pepper; saute them in clarified butter, drain this off and moisten with a little champagne and brown sauce (No. 414), adding some peeled and sliced or whole truffles. Dress the plovers in a straight row, surround them with the truffles and strain the sauce through a tammy, pour part of it over and serve the rest in a sauce-boat. (2115). PLOVERS A LA STOUGHTON (Pluviers a la Stoughton). Draw the plovers, singe, clean and poeler them as for No. 12; after wrapping them in thin bards of fresh fat pork tying each one on with three rows of string. Fry the intestines in butter, carefully suppressing the gizzard and stomach pouch, drain off the butter and replace it by Madeira and brown sauce (No. 414). Then simmer for a few minutes; pass it through a tammy and add to it some foies-gras escalops, truffles and cocks'-combs; dress the plovers in a low croustade made of tart paste (No. 149) and pour over the garnishing, (2116). PLOVERS A LA PARNY-BREASTS (Filets de Pluviers a la Parny). Raise the breasts from six plovers; pare, beat, salt and saute them lightly on the side that adheres to the bones; cover this side with a salpicon of fresh mushrooms mixed with a reduced, thick half-glaze sauce (No. 413); spread a layer of quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) on top and bestrew with finely chopped truffles; range them in a sautoir, pour melted butter over and ten minutes before serving, set them in a hot oven and baste at times with melted clarified butter. Drain as soon as they are done and dress in a circle on the edge of a low, carved rice foundation (Fig. 9a); fill the inside of thecircle with small turned mushroom heads (No. 118) mingled with espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced mushroom essence (No. 392) and Marsala wine. Serve a sauce-boat of this brown sauce at the same time as the fillets. (2117). PLOVERS A LA VICTOR HUGO-BREASTS (Filets de Pluviers a la Victor Hugo). Remove all the skin from the breasts taken from seven plovers; streak the minion fillets rounds of truffles, pare the larger ones into half hearts rounded on one end and pointed on the other; place a minion fillet twisted into a half-circle on the edge of the round end of the fillet itself, and range these in a sautoir, cover with butter and cook in a hot oven, basting frequently while cooking. Prepare fourteen half heart-shaped crotistades the same size as the fillets, made with very thin foundation paste (No. 135) and fill with paper and rice; empty them as soon as done and egg over the outside, return them for an instant to the oven to color, and then fill them with a puree of mushroons (No. 722); lay one of the fillets in each and glaze over. Serve separately a brown sauce (No. 414) with game fumet (No. 397) and Madeira. (2118). PLOVERS BROILED (Pluviers Grille's). Split them lengthwise in two through the back, open and flatten (see broiled woodcock, No. 2204); season with salt and pepper, coat them with oil and broil in a double gridiron; dress on croutons of basted bread, cover with maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581) and serve. (2119). PLOVERS ROASTED (Pluviers Rotis). Singe and draw half a dozen of either golden or grass plovers. With their intestines and some grated fat pork make a dressing seasoned with salt, pepper, parsley and finely chopped shallot fried in butter; fill the insides of the birds, bard them over tying on the pork. Turn the feet and maintain them by passing one through the other; run the under part of the throat on the leg to keep it in this position; thrust a skewer through, fastening it on the spit, and when cooked remove, untruss and dress on top of croutons (No. 51), pour over some good gravy into which mix game glaze (No. 398); surround with water-cress seasoned with vinegar and salt. (2120). PLOVERS ROASTED A LA MARTEL-LARDED (Pluviers Piques Rotis a la Martel). After being drawn, or simply after removing the gizzard, for they are frequently roasted the same as woodcock without drawing, only trussed and larded with fine lardings of pork (No. 4, Fig. 52); fry their intestines with melted fat pork and a few good chicken livers, chopped truffles and 656 THE EPICUREAN. cognac to make a preparation the same as described for woodcock canapes (No. 2205), and with it cover some oblong crusts. Glaze and heat them at the oven door and serve witn the birds on these. Have a separate colbert sauce (No. 451) finished with cayenne butter (No. 571). (2121). SALMIS OF YELLOW-LEG PLOVERS A LA DUCLAIR (Salmis de Pluviers a Pattes Jaunes a la Duclair), Eoast six yellow-leg plovers very rare either on the spit or in the oven; cut them up for a salmis retaining only the breasts, cut these in two through the center; pound the remainder of the meats with the same quantity of rice to obtain a puree; with the broken up carcass make a white wine fumet (No. 397); dress the fillets in a circle and fill the center with the puree, lay on top of it some slices of truffle warmed up in half -glaze (No. 400) with Madeira and fresh butter. Prepare some forcemeat as follows: Fry the intestines in butter with chopped shallots and chicken livers, season and rub through a sieve. Make some oblong crusts two and a half inches long, two wide and half an inch in thickness, slit them all around and fry to a fine color in clarified butter, remove the upper part and empty out the centers, then fill them with the prepared forcemeat, rounding it slightly on top and poach in a slack oven. Range these crusts around the dressed salmis and serve with a sauce-boat of espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with the fumet and Madeira wine. (2122). BUSTARD PLOVERS A LA DUMANOIR (Vanneaux a la Dumanoir). Chop up the intestines of several bustard plovers with as much grated fat pork, pound and press through a sieve, add fine spices and chopped truffle parings, mixing in a little brandy and a soupcon of garlic. Truss the plovers as for roasting (No. 179), stuff them with the above prepara- tion and roast in a hot oven. Dress them when done on hollow oval bread croutons. Glaze them over with game glaze (No. 398), pour a little gravy in the bottom of the dish and serve separately a small quantity of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira. (2123). QUAILS A LA OAPREA (Oailles a la Caprea). Truss eight quails as for entree (No. 178), after picking, singeing, drawing, and cleaning them well; stuff them with butter into which has been mingled salt, pepper, and lemon juice, then saute them in some butter; transfer to a saucepan lined with bards of fat pork, and cook with a very little white wine mirepoix stock (No.419); place around a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf, eight ounces of lean bacon cut in quarter inch squares, and eight ounces of lean ham cut the same, also eight ounces of artichoke bottoms, the whole blanched separately, and four ounces of truffles cut as cloves of garlic. When the quails are cooked, untruss and transfer them to another saucepan, skim the stock, and pour the strained fat over the quails to keep them hot; now strain the stock itself, remove all the fat that is left, and add it to some espagnole sauce (No. 414), and a little Madei- ra; season and boil it down to the consistency of a succulent sauce. Blanch four ounces of rice, cook it with very little unskimmed stock (No. 194a), and when done place it in a flat bottomed border mold (Fig. 139) having it carefully buttered, or if to unmold at once dip it merely into cold water; fill it very tight, unmold on a dish and on top of the border lay oval pieces of tongue, a quarter of an inch thick by three inches long and two inches wide; remove the centers, making the same shape oval only two inches long and one inch wide; on these lay the quails, glaze over with game glaze (No. 398), and inside the center of the border dress the bacon, ham, artichoke bottoms, and truffles; cover with some of the sauce, serving more apart. (2124). QUAILS A LA MAOEDOINE-LARDED (Oailles PiquSes a la MacMoine). Truss eight quails after they have been picked, drawn, and singed, proceeding the same as for an entree (No. 178); dip the breasts in boiling water and lard them with small lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52). Line a low saucepan with bards of fat pork, lay the quails on top, and moisten with a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); braise in a slack oven and when almost done, glaze over. Untruss and dress in a circle with a garnishing of macedoine vegetables (No. 680), in the center; strain the stock, free it of its fat, and reduce to the consistency of half-glaze, serving it separately. The quails may be bardec! instead of larded, and the macedoine replaced by green peas Parisian style (No. 2745), or else cucumbers cut as cloves of garlic, blanched and cooked in consomme' (No. 189), then thickened with bechamel (No. 409), etc. GAME. 657 (2125). QUAILS A LA MIREPOIX (dailies a la Mirepoix), Bone the breasts from the inside of six small and singed quails. Shred finely into small Julienne, some onions, red part of carrots, tender celery stalks, and fresh mushrooms; fry all these very slowly with butter in a small saucepan, stirring occasionally until cooked; season and remove. Leave these ingredients to cool off partially in the saucepan, then put in two or three spoonfuls of glaze (No. 398) barely melted so as to have a thick preparation of a proper consistency to roll into balls. Insert one of these balls into the breast of every quail, sew up the skin, truss and fry them for two minutes in a saucepan; season and moisten with a gill of Madeira wine; glaze over with a brush, and finish cooking them smothered. When the quails are properly done, drain off to untruss; lay each one in an oval china case with a part of their stock; cover with a little good, reduced, thick brown sauce (No. 414) having it almost cold, and let this sauce become glossy for two minutes at the oven door; serve the quails at once. (2126). QUAILS, PIEDMONTESE STYLE (dailies a la Piemontaise). Bone the breasts of four or five clean quails, fill in the empty space with a baked forcemeat (No. 81) and truffles, mingled with a little raw forcemeat (No. 91); truss and cook smothered with Madeira wine and gravy. Have one quart of water, half a pound of polenta, and a piece of butter and some salt and with it prepare a mush; as soon as done, finish with a handful of parmesan and another piece of butter. With this preparation fill a buttered border mold (Fig. 139) and keep it warm. Fry quickly in butter about fifteen small Chipolata sausages (No. 754), drain, cut them apart and glaze over with a brush. At the last moment, lift up the quails and cut each one in two, unmold the polenta border on a hot dish, dress the quails pyramidically in the center and lay the halved sau- sages in a circle on top of the border, cover the border and sausages with Piedmontese brown sauce (No. 519). (2127). QUAILS A LA TALLEYRAND-BREASTS (Filets de Cailles a la Talleyrand). Raise the fillets, suppress the skin and nerves and pare them into half hearts, season and saute with slices of raw truffles add a half-glaze sauce with Madeira (No. 413). Lay them on half heart- shaped bread croutons the same size as the fillets and hollowed out, then filled with a salpicon of mushrooms mingled with half-glaze sauce made of game essence (No. 389). Dress in a circle on a dish, put truffles in the center and pour the sauce over all. (2128). QUAILS BROILED (dailies Grilles). Have the birds very clean and truss with the legs thrust inside; split them through the back without separating, open, trim, beat and season, then coat them over with butter or oil and broil. Dress on well pared toasted slices of bread and cover with maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581). (2129). QUAIL OUTLETS, GIRONDINS (dotelettes de dailies aux Girondins). Prepare the same as the above, split them in two equal parts, the legs to form a handle and trim with a fancy frill (No. 10). Saute on a brisk fire, keeping them rare, then place under a light weight, cover over with Villeroi sauce (No. 560), let get cold, then dip in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry in clarified butter, dress on croutons of cooked red beef tongue, filling the center with minced cepes fried in oil, seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley; drain and mix in with the cepes a little game glaze (No. 398) and lemon juice. Serve a sauce-boat of Bordelaise sauce (No. 436) at same time. (2130). QUAILS IN PAPERS (dailies en Papillotes). Prepare eight cleaned quails by removing the bones beginning at the back and leave on one leg only, then stuff with game forcemeat (No. 91) into which has been added cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and a little glaze (No. 402); put them Into halt heart-shaped bottomless molds, having them laid on a baking sheet covered with thin bards of fat pork, pour butter over and cook in a moderate oven for half an hour; leave them in their molds and set a weight on top. Fry in butter chopped shallot, mushrooms, truffles and parsley, add a quart of veloute sauc (No. 415), reduce and thicken with four egg-yolks, a little cream and the juice of two strainea lemons. Cut out six sheets of strong paper into heart-shapes, coat them with oil; on the right side of the heart and near the center having the point toward you, place on a layer of the 658 TTIK EPICUREAN. cooked fine herb sauce (No. 385), over this a quail, and on top another layer of the sauce; fold the paper in two forming a half heart, crimp the two edges together to enclose hermetically and then set each one on a small silver dish; place them in a slack oven for fifteen to twenty minutes - and when a fine color serve, placing the hot dish from the oven on a second plate. (2131). QUAILS EOASTED (dailies Eoties). After they have been plucked and drawn, singe and cut off the end of the claws; truss and cover the breasts, first with a grape leaf buttered over with a brush, and then with a thin slice of fat pork; run them on small skewers and fasten them to the spit; baste over with melted butter and let cook for fourteen to sixteen minutes then salt; take off and untruss, or they may be put in a baking pan sprinkled with butter and cooked in a hot oven. Dress each one on a crust covered with a layer of baking forcemeat with foies-gras (No. 78), and serve at the same time some clear gravy (No. 404). (2132). QUAILS, SALMIS OF, A LA MOKISINI (Salmis de Oailles a la Morisini). Prepare six quails the same as for roasting (No. 2131). divide them in two splitting through the center of the breast, suppress the legs and pare the remainder of the birds. Mince two shallots finely, break the legs and put them into a saucepan with the fragments of quail and the shallots; moisten with red or white Bordeaux wine (either will answer), and as much mirepoix stock (No. 419) and espagnole sauce (No. 414). Let boil slowly for fifteen minutes, then strain through a sieve, put in the quails, heat up without boiling and dish up in a circle. Add some finely cut up mushrooms and truffles to the sauce and pour it over the quails; surround the salmis with heart- shaped bread croutons fried in butter. (2133). QUAILS WITH BAY LEAF (dailies au Laurier). Pick, draw and singe six quails, truss for roasting (No. 179). Chop up the livers, the same quantity of chicken liver and as much grated fat pork as liver; add chopped parsley, pepper, a tablespoonful of chopped shallot, a handful of bread-crumbs and one small beaten egg. Mix the ingredients well together and fill the quails with it; roast them in a moderate oven, basting over frequently with lard; drain this into a saucepan and add to it some bread-crumbs, raw ham cut in one-eighth squares, fry nicely and put in two bay leaves, moisten with thickened, gravy (No. 405) and game-glaze (No. 398); skim off the fat, add the juice of a lemon and also a little butter; mix well with a wire whisk, dress, and pour the sauce over the quails. (2134). QUAILS WITH MUSHROOMS-STUFFED (Oailles Farcies aux Ohampignons). This entree is dressed on a foundation covered with cooked paste (No. 131) having a low support fastened to the center, also covered with the same cooked paste and decorated on the upper edge with a raised border, it being spread out and open-worked (Fig. 8). Bone the breasts of ten quails, fill up the empty space with a baking forcemeat (No. 81), mixed with a little raw forcemeat FIG. 402. (No. 73), and a few spoonfuls of raw truffles cut in small dice; sew up the skin, truss and cover with bards of salt pork. Lay them in a deep sautoir lined with salt pork, roots and minced onions, moisten with a glassful of white wine and let reduce, then remoisten with unskimmed stock (No. 194a). Boil the liquid, withdraw the pan to a slower fire to finish cooking the quails, drain them off, untruss and untie. Cut each one lengthwise in two and dress them to imitate a rosette on the foundation, standing almost upright without injuring their shapes and leaning them against the support. Fill up the empty border with a garnishing of pretty white mushrooms all of the same size; cover them as well as the quails with a little good veloute sauce (No. 415), reduce** with the quail stock and that of the mushrooms. GrAME. 659 (2135). QUAILS WITH KISOT (dailies au Eisot). Draw four or five singed quails, bone the breasts from the inside of the birds and fill in the empty space with baked forcemeat (No. 81), mingled with a little raw quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) and having chopped truffles added. Truss the quails, fry in a sautoir with butter, season and moisten with Madeira wine and gravy (No. 404), reduce this liquid to half and finish cooking them smothered. At the last moment drain off, untruss and split each one lengthwise in two, then dress on a risot (No. 739). Strain the stock, remove its fat and pour it over the birds. (2136;. CALIFORNIA QUAILS A LA MONTEREY (dailies de dalifornie a la Monterey), Having drawn and singed six California quails leave the breast skin as long as possible with- out breaking it. Peel half a pound of truffles, chop up the peelings and cut the truffles in half inch square pieces, season with No. 1 spices (No. 168), then add the livers, a few chicken livers, a little brandy, a soupcon of garlic and four ounces of fresh butter; stuff the quails with this and truss them for an entree (No. 178). cover with thin bards of fat pork tying it on with three rows of string, run a skewer through and range them on the spit; put to the fire for about three-quarters of an hour, then unwrap and dress on hollow crusts forming them into a circle; cover with half- glaze sauce (No. 413) finished with essence of truffles (No. 395) and fill the center with cooked and turned small mushroom heads, turned olives and small game quenelles made with a coffeespoon (No. 155); pour some sauce into this garnishing, serving more separately. (2137). YOUNG RABBIT A LA dELTOISE (Lapereau a la deltoise). Divide a young rabbit into twelve pieces after skinning and drawing it; put these to steep in a raw marinade for six hours, then drain and wipe, lay the pieces in a sautoir with fat pork cut in half inch squares and blanched; set the sautoir on a good fire and fry the rabbit with the addition of some small onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and a clove of garlic; when the meats are done, baste them over with white wine and some clear gravy (No. 404), adding six peeled tomatoes cut across in two and the seeds well extracted, also half a pound of lean cooked bam cut in three-eixteenths inch squares and a pint of brown sauce (No. 414). Remove the parsley, gkim off the fat and season highly with salt, pepper and prepared red pepper (No. 168); dress the rabbits inside a risot a la piemontese border (No. 2981), pour very little of the sauce over and serve. (2138). YOUNG RABBITS A LA THIEBLIN (Lapereaux a la Thi^blin). Skin, empty, and trim two young rabbits; put the livers aside, and divide each rabbit into twelve pieces; heat some oil and butter, half of each, in a sautoir, put in the pieces of rabbit, and season well with salt, pepper, a crushed clove of garlic, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; fry them quickly, moisten with espagnole sauce (No. 414), white wine, a little clear gravy (No. 404), and tomatoes; let simmer till thoroughly cooked, and add the sauted livers, and some mushrooms. Dress the rabbit and mushrooms, covering over with the sauce. Prepare a rabbit forcemeat (No. 84), mix with it a little espagnole sauce reduced and stirred with some half-glaze made of game fumet (No. 397); place it in small oval molds and poach in the oven; cut them in two lengthways, bread-crumb them first without any eggs, then again with eggs, and fry to a fine color in clarified butter; drain, wipe, and dress them around the rabbit. Serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414) made with game fumet (No. 397). (2139). YOUNG RABBITS, VALENCIA STYLE (Lapereaux a la Valence). Cut up in twelve pieces each, two skinned and drawn young rabbits; put half a pound of chopped fat pork in a sautoir, adding the rabbits when it is very hot and fry over a brisk fire, season with salt and pepper, and add also half a pound of blanched bacon cut in quarter inch squares, one medium onion cut the same size, four quartered, peeled and pressed tomatoes, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, and a clove of garlic. Cover the saucepan and cook on a moderate fire; just when ready to serve, skim off the fat, suppress the parsley, and put in a little game glaze (No. 398); dress and dredge chopped parsley over the top. Stiffen some small oiled cases in the oven, fill them with rabbit forcemeat (No. 84), into which cooked fine herbs (No. 385) have been added; place on top the minion fillet scored with truffles removed from the rabbit, and over these thin slices of fat pork; bake in a slow oven, drain off the fat, and lay a small glazed truffle in the center of each fillet; range these cases around the dish, and serve. 660 THE EPICUREAN. (2140). YOUNG BABBITS, HUNTEB'S STYLE (Lapereaux au Chasseur). Skin and draw two young rabbits; wash, wipe, and cut each one into twelve pieces; put them into a sautoir on a brisk fire to fry and color the meats lightly, adding half a pound of raw ham cut in one-eighth of an inch squares, four ounces of onions cut exactly the same size, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, garlic, and a clove. Drain off the fat, and season with salt and pepper, putting in a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and as much Burgundy wine; sim- mer, reduce, and add a pint of cooked minced mushrooms and half as many truffles. Dish it up and garnish with the mushrooms and truffles, pour a third of the sauce over, and range croutons of bread fried in butter all around; serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauce boat. (2141). WILD BABBIT JUGGED WITH BLOOD (Civet de Lapin de Garenne au Sang). Procure a good, young, fleshy wild rabbit, preserve all the blood in a bowl, stirring into it a little vinegar to keep it liquid. Skin and prepare it, and cut it up into equal-sized pieces. Put the meats into a vessel to season and let marinate for two hours with a little boiled vinegar, a little white wine and a tied bunch of fresh and wild thyme. Chop up some fat pork, melt it in a frying pan and add to it half a pound of small squares of bacon; after these are well sized, remove them with a skimmer and add to the fat the well-drained pieces of rabbit and cut up onions; fry over a good fire until the meats are nicely browned and have evaporated their moisture, then put them into a fireproof stone vessel with a glassful of red wine; reduce this over a brisk fire and moisten the meats at once to their height with white wine and stock (No. 194a); let this liquid come to a boil, then remove the vessel on one side to boil gently until partly done; strain the liquid through a sieve, pare the surplus bones from the meats and return the latter to the saucepan with the cut up bacon, the marinade, a bunch of parsley and a peeled clove of garlic. Put the stew back on the fire and thicken it with a little cooked roux or diluted flour, finish cooking slowly. A few moments before serving, transfer all the pieces of rabbit and bacon into another saucepan, strain the sauce over and boil up once or twice thickening it off the fire with the reserved blood; let cook again but without boiling. Dress the stew on a dish and surround it with small clusters of onions glazed separately, if intended for a more ceremonious dish, a few clusters of fresh, peeled mushrooms cooked in butter may be added. (2142). YOUNG BABBIT BOASTED AND LABDED (Levraut PiquS et Boti). Suppress the skin from the back and hind legs of a good, trimmed rabbit; fill the body with a bread forcemeat (No. 61), with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and chopped truffles mixed with a third as much liver baking forcemeat (No. 64); sew up the opening. Break the b:me of the thick thigh FIG 403. part so as to be able to bend the legs under and keep them in position while trussing; truss also the fore legs and the head, keeping the latter upright. Lard the back and thighs with larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52). Lay the rabbit on a spit, maintaining it in position with skewers, and roast it for thirty to forty minutes, basting over frequently with butter, and when done salt it over. Remove, untruss, and dress on a dish; serve separately some clear gravy (No. 404), also a light sharp sauce (No. 538). (2143). FILLETS OF YOUNG BABBITS A LA BIENVENU, GABNISHED WITH OBOQUETTES (Filets de Lapereaux a la Bienvenu, Garnis de Croquettes). Remove and lard both the fillets and minion fillets from four young rabbits, having the lardons exceedingly small (No. 4, Fig. 52); place them in a saute pan with clarified butter, place on a brisk GAME. 661 fire, let cook and drain off the butter, detaching the glaze with a little white wine. Dress them in the center of a dish and serve witn a separate marinade sauce (No. 496), garnishing around with prepared croquettes as follows: Hare Croquettes. Fry colorless in butter, one ounce of finely chopped onions adding four ounces of chopped mushrooms and eight ounces of cold roast rabbit taken from the legs and shoulders, mix with a well reduced brown sauce (No. 414), also a little meat glaze (No. 402) and fresh butter, add salt, pepper and chopped parsley; when this preparation is cold divide it into inch and a half balls, flatten them to three-quarters of an inch thick, dip in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine golden color; drain, wipe and lay them around the dressed rabbit, resting one against the other; serve with the sauce as explained above. (2144). PILLETS OF YOUNG RABBITS A LA LAVOISIER (Filets de Lapereaux k la Lavoisier). Raise the fillets and minion fillers from four young rabbits, suppress all the nerves and cut them into bias slices; flatten and shape into half hearts, split them through their thickness to form a pocket and season this with salted spices (No. 168), stuff the cavity with reduced duxelle (No. 385) and cover over with very consistent allemande sauce (No. 407); when cold, dip in eggs and bread- crumbs, then saute in butter, draining this off when done, decorate with fancy favor frills (No. 10) and dress in two rows, trim the sides with cepes sauted a la Provengale (No. 2723) and the ends with oval shaped rabbit croquettes decorated with truffles; a separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira should be served in a tureen. (2145). FILLETS OF YOUNG RABBITS WITH CURRANT SAUCE (Filets de Lapereaux Sauce aux Groseilles). Remove the nerves and pare two young rabbit fillets, also the minion fillets; lard them with small lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52) and marinate for two hours, then strain the marinade and put its vegetables on the fire to fry in butter, braise the fillets in this, glaze and dress in a circle. Break up the bones and cook them in butter, adding a little flour; with this make a small roux (No. 163), season it with pepper and salt, adding an onion and a bunch of garnished parsley, moisten with boiling port wine, reduce and strain through a sieve, boil it up again and despumate well adding some currant jelly, dissolving it slowly in the sauce; strain the whole through a tammy and pour a part of it under the meats, serving the remainder separately. The fillets can be roasted instead of braised if so desired. (2146). FILLETS OF YOUNG RABBITS WITH ARTICHOKE OR MUSHROOM PUREE (Filets de Lapereaux a la Puree d'Artichauts ou de Champignons). Raise the fillets and minion fillets; divide the larger ones in two or three pieces, then pare each one and make a deep incision on one side; season this and stuff it with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) mingled with a well-reduced half-glaze sauce (No. 413); bread them English style (No. 13), and broil over a slack fire. Dress in a circle filling the center with a puree of mushrooms (No. 722) or artichokes bottoms (No. 704) and serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with fumet of rabbit (No. 397). Instead of stuffing the whole inside, one side only need be filled, after sauteing the fillet on one side, mask it with raw game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), then dip in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry in clarified butter to a fine color; serve the same as the above. (2147). GIBELOTTE OF RABBITS (Gibelotte de Lapins). Cut clean fine tame rabbits in pieces, put them into a vessel to season and marinate for a couple of hours with onions, parsley, and vinegar. Melt some chopped up fat pork in a pan; add to it a quarter of a pound of cut up bacon, fry and drain this off. Put the rabbit meats into the same pan and fry over a good fire, bestrew with a spoonful of flour, and moisten to their height with one- third of white wine, and two-thirds of stock (No. 194a); boil up the liquid, then transfer the stew into a saucepan to let cook slowly until partly done; strain the sauce, pare the meats and return them to the same saucepan with the bacon, a clove of garlic, a garnished bunch of parsley, and 662 THE EPICUREAN. two dozen small onions browned in a pan; continue to boil all together. At the expiration of a quarter of an hour, put in fifteen to twenty fresh mushrooms, and seven or 'eight minutes later, dress the meats on a dish with the garnishings around, if there be too much sauce, reduce it; strain it over the stew, and surround with plain bread-crusts cut into triangles, and browned in butter. (2148). GIBELOTTE OF YOUNG BABBITS, PARMENTIER (Gibelotte de Lapereaux Parmentier). After disjointing two young rabbits, wash them in plenty of cold water to extract all the blood, wipe on a cloth drying them at the same time, then fry in butter to stiffen; add two tablespoonf uls of flour, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, and half a clove of crushed garlic; moisten with half a bottle- ful of white wine, and some stock (No. 194a), keeping the sauce rather thick, now throw in a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), and some mushroom parings. Let cook for three-quarters of an hour, skim the fat from the top, drain off the pieces of rabbit, and pare each one, then put them aside in a saucepan to keep hot with a few spoonfuls of the sauce. Now reduce the remainder of it to re- semble a thick veloute sauce (No. 415), and thicken it with a liaison of four egg-yolks; strain it through a tammy, and place it in a bain-marie. When prepared to serve, dish up the pieces of rabbit, and garnish around with olive-shaped potatoes cooked in stock (No. 194a) and a pound of cooked mushrooms; add to the sauce kept warm, a heavy pinch of chopped parsley, and two shallots blanched and chopped; also two spoonfuls of olive oil and the juice of a lemon; pour it over the rabbit. (2149). WILD KABBIT BACKS, BEOILED (Rabies de Lapins de Garenne Grille's). Pare the backs of three field rabbits, skinned and cleaned; suppress the breasts, then season; dip them in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, and immerse in melted butter; broil for twenty minutes over a moderate fire while turning. Dress on a dish and serve with a separate sharp sauce (No. 538), or else a tartar sauce (No. 631). (2150). RAIL A LA MAREILLE-ROASTED AND BROILED (Rale Roti et Grill6 a la Mareille) A species of bird belonging to the grallic order; they are in great demand on account of the delicacy of their meats, especially in the fall season. There are two kinds, the water rail and the land rail; the latter being the best. A la Mareille. Pick, draw, singe, and truss six rails, carefully remove all their pin feathers, then stuff them with the following dressing: Chop six ounces of chicken livers with as much fresh fat pork, both to be chopped separately; mix all together, then season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and chopped truffles, mushrooms, and parsley; cook in a brisk oven, and afterward dress on hollow crusts fried in butter garnished with forcemeat and poached in the oven; serve a Bigarade sauce (No. 435; separately. Roasted. Prepared the same as the above without any dressing; roast in a hot oven, and dress on croutons of bread fried in butter, and covered with foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78); pour clear gravy (No. 404) over, and serve with currant jelly. Broiled. Split the rails, cook and dress the same as the English snipe (No. 2157). (2151). REED BIRDS, BROILED (Melanges Moustaches Grilles). Split them through the back, remove the intestines, pare and season ; place them in a hinged broiler, cook lightly on the opened side and finish cooking on the other side; a few moments should suffice. Dress one resting on the other intercalated with toasts; spread over a little maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581). (2152). REED BIRDS, ROASTED (Mesanges Moustaches Roties). Remove the gizzards and the pouch from the birds; cut off the legs halfway, singe and cover with bards of fat pork pared very thin; thrust small skewers through, and spread the birds with FIG. 404. a spare layer of softened butter; roast them for seven to eight minutes at a brisk fire, salt over when unwrapping and dress on buttered and browned crusts. Serve with sliced lemon. OAMK. 663 (2153). SNIPE-ENGLISH-APRIOAN STYLE (Be"cassines Anglaises a 1'Afiioaine), Divide six snipe in two parts, beat, pare and place them in a sautoir with melted butter; cook the intestines and some chicken livers in butter with half as much grated fat pork, two ounces of bread-crumbs and half a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), pass it through a sieve and incorporate into it a few spoonfuls of chopped truffles; fill some hollowed out half heart-shaped croutons with this preparation, cover with slices of fat pork and poach in the oven. Saute the snipe and when done lay on top of the croutons and cover with espagnole sauce (No, 414), reduced with game fumet (No. 397); serve an African sauce (No. 424) separately. Dowich snipe are prepared the same as English snipe. (2154). SNIPE-ENGLISH-A LA MONTALAND (B^cassines Anglaises a la Montaland). Truss twelve very clean snipe, roast them on the spit or in the oven, leaving them quite rare; lift off the breasts. Fry the intestines and livers in butter, season with salt and pepper; cut off all the leg meats and pound them with the fried intestines, then press through a sieve. Reduce half a pint of champagne with two finely minced shallots, also some truffles, mushrooms, chopped parsley, mignonette and a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414), add to it the pounded meats, a spoon- ful of olive oil and the juice of a lemon. Dress the snipe on half heart croutons covered with foies-gras, and pour the sauce over. (2155). SNIPE-ENGLISH-A LA WALESKI (Becassines Anglaises a la Waleski). Bone the backs of twelve snipe. Put into a basin three ounces of bread-crumbs, half a pound f unmelted butter, two chopped and blanched shallots, some chopped mushrooms, finely cut up hives, salt, pepper, nutmeg and brandy; stuff the birds with this dressing and lay them in but- tered bottomless oval molds the same size as themselves, then cook in a brisk oven. Prepare some foundation paste (No. 135), croustades the same shape and size as the snipe, and when baked and emptied fill them with delicate game cream forcemeat (No. 75); poach in a slack oven and dress in a circle on a hot dish; lay a snipe on every croustade, glaze over and fasten on one end a well cleaned head, the eyes formed of forcemeat and a round of truffles; cover with brown Madeira sauce (No. 492) and game glaze (No. 389). (2156). BAKED SNIPE (Becassines an Gratin). Singe and bone twelve snipe leaving on the feet only as far as the phalanges, add a few chicken livers to the livers and intestines. Fry in butter, also one shallot, mushrooms, truffles and parsley all finely chopped, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, set this aside to cool, then pound thoroughly. Pound a third as much panada (No. 121), add little by little six raw egg-yolks and the preparation; when thoroughly pounded, press the whole through a sieve and use half of it to fill the snipes, sew them up, truss and cover with fat pork; wrap them in paper and cook in the oven from ten to twelve minutes; when done, untie, untruss and lay them in a circle on a dish covered with the remainder of the forcemeat; fill the center with truffles, olives and mushrooms, cover with thick allemande sauce (No. 407), bestrew bread-crumbs and grated cheese on top and brown in a moderate oven. (2157). BROILED SNIPE (Becassines Grilles). Split the snipe lengthwise through the back, cut off the legs, pare nicely and thrust the beak through one of the breasts (see broiled woodcock No. 2204), season, coat with oil and broil over a good fire, dress on slices of toast and pour some maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581) over; serve very hot. (2158). ENGLISH SNIPE IN PAPERS (Be"cassines Anglaises en Papillotes). Cut six snipe in two lengthways, pare, beat lightly, season and toss them to stiffen both sides. Fry in butter some shallots, raw mushrooms, truffles and parsley all finely chopped, add a few spoonfuls of espagnole sauce (No. 414), besides this fry the intestines with a few chicken livers, season, pound and press through a sieve; put this pulp in with the cooled off fine herbs and divide the preparation in twenty-four parts using one of them to cover the inside of each half snipe. Cut some sheets of paper into hearts, oil, and on one side lay a half snipe, over a layer of grated fat 664 THE EPICUREAN. pork and cover with the remainder of the preparation, fold the paper, crimp it all around to enclose properly the birds and dress each one on a small oval dish intended for the table, heatis: and browning them on this. When of a fine color and swollen considerably, remove from tiw oven; serve separately an espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with game fumet (No. 397). (2159). SNIPE, ENGLISH, BOASTED (Be~cassines Anglaises Eoties). Pick, singe, remove the gizzard and pouch and truss the snipe thrusting the feet inside; cover the breast with a very thin slice of fat pork and cross over this as well as the joint of the thick part of the leg with the beak. Koast them from six to eight minutes, dress on slices of toast, pour the gravy over and garnish with water-cress. (2160), SNIPE STUPTED, BOEDELAISE (Be~cassines Farcies, Bordelaise), Clean the birds well, draw, remove the gizzard and pouch and chop up the intestines, mix in with them as much grated fat pork, some parsley, chives, salt and pepper; fill the snipe with this dressing and roast them in the oven; dress them on hollowed out bread crusts fried in butter and filled with marrow Bordelaise (No. 436). (2161). SAND SNIPE EOASTED WITH WATEE-OEESS (Petites Bfoassines de Sable Eoties au Oresson). Pick and singe a dozen sand snipe without drawing them; cover with very thin small slices of fat pork, and run a thin hatelet or skewer into them one after the other. Lay them on a baking sheet, pour good fat over and roast in a quick oven; when done salt and dress in pairs on bread croutons, three inches long by one and a half wide covered over with butter; pour over some clear gravy (No. 404) and decorate with water-cress. Serve. (2162). THEUSHES ANDEIEUX (Grives Andrieux), A bird similar to the blackbird with speckled plumage; its meat is very succulent. Bone the the backs of eight well-cleaned thrushes, leaving on the breastbone and legs; season the meats and fill the insides with game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), and cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Enclose the dressing, sew and truss the birds for an entree (No. 178). Line a low saucepan with bards of fat pork, put over bottomless oval molds three inches long, two wide and half an inch high, place a thrush in each of these rings. Cut up some ham, veal, carrots and onions in three-eighths of an inch squares, place them around the birds, also a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, cover with a round piece of strong buttered paper, moisten with a little stock (No. 194a) and Madeira and reduce the liquid till dry, then remoisten with broth and let boil. Close well the saucepan and push it into a moderate oven, leaving it there until the birds are nearly done, then untruss and glaze to a fine color; return them to another saucepan with a little braise stock to keep hot until ready to serve. Prepare some croustades with foundation paste (No. 135); in oval molds three and a quarter inches long, two and an eighth wide and three-quarters of an inch high. Strain the stock, skim off the fat and reduce with the same quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and a gill of good Madeira into which has been infused a piece of Ceylon cinnamon; take a third part of this sauce to serve separately at the same time as the thrush and to the other two-thirds add some truffles and escalops of cooked duck's liver; fill the croustades with this, drain the birds, glaze over and lay them on top, then serve. (2163). THEUSHES A LA BIANOA (Grives a la Bianca), Have as many birds as guests; pick, singe and remove the gizzard, pouch and intestines and fill the inside of each one with Spanish olives stuffed with anchovies, finishing to fill up the empty space with lightly melted fresh butter. Cut as many oval croutons as there are birds, hav- ing them three inches long by one and three-quarters wide and halt an inch thick; slit them all around aquarter of an inch high and three-sixteenths of an inch from the edge; take out the inside and place a bird In this hollow; lay them in a sauteing pan the bottom covered with a bed of clari- fied butter and put it on the hot fire; as soon as the butter is well heated push it into the oven and after the croutons are colored and the thrushes well cooked, take them out and drain them from the butter on a cloth, then range in a circle on a dish and fill the inside with a garnishing made of minced mushrooms and truffles mingled with half-glaze (No. 400), a tablespoonful of good olive oii and the juice of half a lemon; pour this sauce over all and serve. G-AME. 665 (2164). BAKED THEUSEES (Grives au Gratin), Have some well-cleaned thrushes, bone keeping on the legs; season the meats, and in each bird set a ball of forcemeat made with quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), and foies-gras from a terrine, half of each. Truss and fry in butter with a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; drain off the butter, moisten with a little Madeira and stock (No. 194a), and reduce the moisture entirely while cooking slowly. Range a layer of game quenelle forcemeat mixed with cooked fine herbs (No. 385; on a dish; this layer should be seven inches in diameter by three- quarters of an inch high; place the dish on a baking-pan containing a little boiling water and poach the forcemeat in a slack oven. Dress the thrushes on this forcemeat, the breasts lying toward the outer edge and the legs in the center; cover the birds with well reduced veloute* sauce (No. 415) into which mix a little game glaze (No. 398), and cooked fine herbs (No. 385); bestrew with par- mesan, pour over melted butter, and brown in a hot oven or salamander (Fig. 123). Serve sepa- rately a veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with white wine and mushroom essence (No. 392). (2165). THRUSHES IN THE SAUCEPAN (Grives a la Casserole). Pick and singe one dozen thrushes; remove the gizzard and pouch without drawing them, truss for roasting and fry in butter in an earthenware saucepan over a brisk fire. When done remove them from the saucepan, untruss and dress in a circle on a hot dish, the legs lying inwards; add to their stock a little game glaze (No. 398), some clear gravy (No. 404), the juice of a lemon, and a small pinch of chopped parsley. Pour the sauce over the birds, and serve. (2166). THEUSHES AND EOBINS, BOASTED AND BEOILED (Grives ou Eouges Gorges Botis on Grille's), Pick, draw, and singe six thrushes or robins; stuff them with forcemeat made of four ounces of lean cooked ham cut in dice, and as much finely chopped sausage meat; put this into a sautoir on a bright fire to cook, when cool add four ounces of truffles, and the same of foies-gras, cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares; mix in six ounces of thick and well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407). Truss the bird as for an entree (No. 178), cover the breast with a grape leaf, and on this place a thin layer of fat pork; cook on the spit or in a quick oven, untruss and dress on canapes with the following gravy poured around: Fry two bay leaves in butter with one chopped shallot, salt, pepper, and fine herbs, add half a pint of white wine, and a little stock (No. 194a); let boil and simmer, then put in some game glaze (No. 398), and minced mushrooms; when ready the bay leaves should be removed. For Broiling. Prepare and broil the thrushes the same as quails (No. 2128), only not allowing them to cook quite as long; dress and serve the same. (2167). VENISON. ANTELOPE. DEEE (Chevreuil. Antilope, Daim). The animal should be chosen at the age of eighteen months to two years and a half, in order to have it savory and tender. The flesh is then excellent, however its quality depends principally upon its place of abode. Those with brown hair are better than those with red. Males over three years of age are unfit to eat in certain months of the year. The meats of the kid or doe are also excellent after they have attained the age of nine or ten months. The parts generally used are those from the saddle, leg, baron (see mutton, Fig. 334, for the cuts), quarter, haunch, hip, cutlets and the racks from the fifth rib by the neck as far down as the tenderloin, the shoulders, tenderloins and breast. The saddle tenderloin and rack are larded. The haunch and quarters are marinated from two to ten days and are also larded, but If very fresh and tender venison is eaten without being marinated. (2168). LOIN OF DEEE, OHEEEY SAUCE (Longe de Daim, Sauce aux Cerises), The loin is the part of the deer beginning at the thick loin end and reaching as far as the first rib; remove the skin from the sirloin and put the meat into an earthen dish with a quart of vinegar and two gills of water, should the vinegar be too strong; adding whole peppers, salt, bay leaf, thyme and parsley leaves. Leave it to marinate for several days, then lard with medium lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52); lay it it in a baking pan, and pour over some fat; cook in a hot oven and when three-quarters done season with pepper, salt, pour over vinegar, a little broth and gravy; when done dress and cover with the skimmed stock serving a cherry sauce (No. 447) apart. 666 THE EPICUREAN. (2169). BACK OF VENISON, BOASTED OOLBEKT SAUCE (Carre de Chevreuil Boti, Sauce Colbert). Have two racks of venison of seven ribs each, bone, suppress the shine bone (see drawing for rack of mutton Fig. 343); remove the skin covering the meat and lard with lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52); put them into a cold cooked marinade (No. 114) for six hours. Roast, dress on a hot dish, pour over the well-skimmed gravy from the dripping pan, to which clear gravy (No. 404) has been added, and surround with Marchioness potatoes (No. 2797) serving a Colbert sauce (No. 451) separately. (2170). VENISON CUTLETS A LA BUBIDAN (Cotelettes de Chevreuil a la Buridan). Have some well-pared cutlets (see mutton cutlets, No. 1590), lard them on one side only with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52), all on the same side so that the handle is on the right; put them in cold marinade for three hours. Make some coffeespoon quenelles (No. 155) with young rabbit and game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), poach in boiling water and drain. Saute the cutlets in butter, drain it off and replace it by a little game glaze (No. 398) and a gill of vinegar to detach the glaze from the pan, adding a little brown sauce (No. 414); allow it to boil up once or twice and then strain through a sieve and add the quenelles; glaze the cutlets and garnish with paper frills (No. 10). Dish up the cutlets in a circle, fill the center with the quenelles, and serve the sauce separately. Garnish around with small round croquettes made like croquettes a la trimalcion (No. 3016). (2171). VENISON CUTLETS A LA OAUCHOISE (Cotelettes de Chevreuil a la Cauchoise). Cut and pare some venison cutlets and lay them in a sauteing pan with clarified butter; saute on a brisk fire, then remove from the pan, keeping them warm; detach the glaze with a little white wine and poivrade sauce ("No. 523), roll the cutlets in this to have them well covered, takf out and trim the handles; range them in a circle and fill the center with some cream of game (No. 2240), and all around with a garnishing made of cabbage puree, mingled with egg-yolks and veloute sauce, then poached in mousseline mold (No. 4, Fig. 138). (2172). VENISON OUTLETS A LA HNANCIEBE (Ootelettes de Chevreuil a la Pinanciere), Prepare some venison cutlets the same size as those of mutton (No. 1590); lard them on one side only, but all on the same side, with the handles on the right; put them into a buttered sautoir with the larded side uppermost and cook them in a hot oven; finally drain off the butter from the sautoir, glaze the cutlets with a brush, trim them with paper frills (No. 10) and dress in a circle on a low venison quenelle forcemeat border; fill the center with a financiere garnishing (No. 667). (2173). VENISON CUTLETS, DEVILED (Cotelettes de Chevreuil a la Diable). Coat some cutlets with mustard and immerse them in melted butter; roll in bread-crumbs and broil. Have some shallots fried in butter and moisten them with a light poivrade sauce (No. 522) and game glaze (No. 398), adding mushrooms, lean cooked ham cut in small squares and chopped parsley. Dress the cutlets crown shape, pour the sauce over and decorate the handle bones with frills (No. 10). (2174). VENISON OUTLETS, TOMATO PABISIAN SAUOE (Ootelettes de Ohevreuil, Sauce Tomat, Parisienne), Pare some venison cutlets, season with salt and pepper and saute in clarified butter or oil over a brisk fire; when of a fine color and sufficiently done, drain off the fat and detach the glaze from the pan with a little white wine, adding a little brown sauce (No. 414) and meat glaze (No. 402). Dress the cutlets after trimming them with paper frills (No. 10) intercalating them with half heart-shaped croutons and pour the sauce in the center; serve a tomato Parisian sauce (No. 550) separately. (2175). VENISON OUTLETS WITH CHESTNUT PUBEE (OStelettes de Ohevreuil a la Purge de Marrons). Pare some venison cutlets the same as mutton cutlet No. 1590, season with salt and dip in oil or melted butter, roll in bread-crumbs, equalize the surfaces and broil to a fine color, trim the handles and dress in a circle, filling the center with a consistent and mellow chestnut puree (No. 712,i; serve with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced with Madeira and game fumet (No. 397). GrAMl]. 667 (2176), EPIGEAMMES OF KOEBTTOK, MAEINADE SAUCE WITH TRUPPLES (Epigrammes de Ohevreuil, Sauce Marinade aux Truffes). Pare some roebuck cutlets, put them into a deep dish and season with salt, pepper, mignonette, thyme, bay leaf, parsley leaves, olive oil and lemon juice. Prepare a game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) with half venison and half rabbit meat, lay eight half heart-shaped bottomless molds, they being three and a half inches long by two wide and half an inch high, on sheets of buttered paper, fill them with the quenelle forcemeat and poach lightly in a slack oven; as soon as sufficiently done to bread-crumb, remove, unmold and dip in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs, smoothing this with the blade of a knife. Just when prepared to serve, drain the cutlets, wipe and saute them in butter, fry the quenelles to a fine color, then drain off the cutlets, trim them with paper frills (No. 10) and dress in a circle on a hot dish, alternating them with the quenelles (they to be arranged with the pointed ends uppermost), pour a little marinade sauce (No. 496) with Madeira into the bottom of the dish and serve a sauce-boat of the same, mingling into it three tablespoonfuls of truffles cut in one-eighth inch squares. (2177), DEEE OE EOEBUCZ PILLETS A LA LOEENZO (Filets de Daim on de Ohevreuil & la Lorenzo). Pare two minion fillets of a deer or a roebuck; suppress the superficial skin covering them and marinate for five or six hours in a little cooked marinade (No. 114), drain, lard the entire upper surface with lardons (No. 4, Fig. 52), range them on a small buttered baking pan, one beside the other, cover with buttered paper and cook in a moderate oven for half an hour, until well done. Remove and cut them into slightly bias slices, and dress either in a straight row or else in a circle, and fill the sides or inside with braised chestnuts (No. 654), stuffed Spanish olives (No. 695), mushroom heads, round, medium truffles and large capers; cover with a Pignola Italian sauce (No. 520) and game glaze (No. 398) and trim around with potato croquettes (No. 2782). (2178), EOEBUOK-HAUNOH OE QUAETEE-A LA BOUOHAED (Hanche ou Quartier de Chev- reuil a la Bouchard), Suppress all the nerves from a good haunch of venison; lay it in a cold cooked marinade (No. 114), for two days, then drain, pare it on the kernel end and lard with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52), range it on the cradle spit (No. 116) and let roast before a good fire from three-quarters of an hour to an hour. Dress and garnish around with stuffed peppers and rissoles of brain, Princetown (No. 947), mixed with a chopped sauce (No. 539), serving pimeutade sauce (No. 521) separately. (2179). EOEBUOE-HAUNOH OE QUAETEE-A LA LYTTON (Hanche ou Quartier de Chevreuil a la Lytton). Choose a very fat haunch of roebuck; bone the thick loin end, sprinkle salt over, and coat the surfaces with butter: wrap it up in buttered paper, then in a flat of paste made with three pounds of flour into which is added an ounce of salt, three eggs, and just sufficient water to form a very firm dough: place this in a wet cloth, and leave it for several hours, then roll it out to an eighth of an inch in thickness; wrap it all around the meat; fasten the two ends and sides by wetting them both and have one overlap the other to prevent any fissure whatever, then cover it all with buttered paper; lay it on a cradle spit (Fig. 116), or else in a moderate oven in a baking- pan. The length of time to cook it depends upon its size; for a medium haunch of venison it will take two hours; deer require three hours. Remove the paper, brown the paste nicely, and serve with a poivrade sauce (No. 522), finished with currant jelly and cold sour apple marmalade (No. 3674). (2180), JUGGED VENISON (Civet de Chevreuil) To jug venison use the breasts, neck, shoulder, and thick loin end (the shoulder and loin ends are to be larded through the meat with seasoned lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52). Cut the meats into pieces an inch and a half to two inches square, and for three pounds of it allow six ounces of unsmoked bacon cut in quarter-inch dice; fry the whole in butter, and when stiffened dredge with three table- spoonfuls of flour; let brown slightly, then moisten with six gills of red wine, and three gills of stock (No. 194a), adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, some dry orange peel, a whole clove of garlic, and a seasoning of pepper and salt; cook slowly for one hour and a 668 THE EPICUREAN. half, then put in three dozen small onions fried in butter, and three-quarters of a pound of small mushrooms; skim the fat from the surface, and add two gills of brandy, one gill of Madeira, and the strained juice of two lemons, or else three tablespoonfuls of good vinegar. Pile up the meats on a dish; season and reduce the sauce, suppress the parsley, and pour it over the meats; surround with heart-shaped bread croutons fried in oil, then serve. (2181). VENISON-SLIOES OF KERNEL-A LA HUSSAKDE (Tranches de Noix de Chevreuil a la Hussarde). Cut off some slices from the kernel of a haunch, five-eighths of an inch thick; pare into ovals each one to weigh about half a pound, and marinate in cold cooked marinade (No. 114) for two hours; saute them rare in butter, and dress on a hussarde sauce (No. 482). (2182). VENISON-SLIOES OP KEENEL-IN PAPEES (Tranches de Noix de Ohevreuil en Papillotes). Pare oval-shaped some slices half an inch thick cut from the kernel of the haunch; they should each weigh five ounces after being trimmed; broil them rare, and then wrap in heart-shaped sheets of oiled paper; on top of each slice lay a thin slice of fat pork, and over this some well sea- soned and thick Duxelle (No. 385), then close the paper, crimp it all around, and lay them on a buttered dish that can be placed in the oven; and on which they should be served; push it in the oven for a few moments to serve when a fine color. (2183). ROEBUCK, LEG OF, A LA FRANOATELLI (Ouissot de Chevreuil a la Francatelli). Have a leg of roebuck weighing about ten pounds; pare and lard it with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52), and marinate for six hours in cold cooked marinade (No. 114); then roast in the oven, bast- FIG. 405. ing frequently with melted butter while cooking, this operation taking about an hour and a half to an hour and three-quarters; salt. Dress, garnish around with bouchees (No. 11) filled with chestnut pur6e (No. 712). Serve a venison sauce (No. 556) in a sauce-boat. Hand around currant jelly the same time as the meat. (2184). MINCED VENISON (Emincl de Chevreuil). Cut a piece of cooked saddle of venison into even-sized slices; pare and range them in a small sautc\r. Reduce the value of two gills of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), incorporating into it a few spoonfuls of the venison gravy and a few spoonfuls of raw cream; when this sauce becomes succu- lent, finish it with a dash of good vinegar and pour it over the slices of venison. Heat these meatg well over a slow fire without allowing the sauce to boil and baste frequently with the same. Dress the stew the same as for minced partridge (No. 2090), either inside a border or else on a dish, and surround with fried Villeroi quenelles (No. 733) or crusts of bread hollowed out and filled in with a cooked salpicon of truffles; strain the sauce over. This mince may also be surrounded with stuffed Spanish olives (No. 695). (2185). SADDLE OF ANTELOPE, HUNTRESS STYLE (Selle d'Antilope a la Chasseresse). Procure a fine thick saddle of antelope; raise the sirloin from one part, remove the skin and lard with small lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52); lift up the minion fillets, suppress their sinews and score with large slices of truffles; pare the remainder of the meat and chop it up with as much fat pork, season with mixed spices (No. 168) and add two eggs. Make a stock with the parings and bones of the ante- lope. Marinate the sirloin and minion fillets and cook them in a brisk oven. Make small balls with GAMK. 669 the chopped meats; bread-crumb, English style (No. 13), and bake them in a slow oven; reduce some espagnole sauce (No. 414) and Madeira with the prepared stock, and when a consistent sauce is obtained, put in the meat balls, whole chestnuts and stuffed olives (No. 395). Prepare a bread crouton five inches wide, eight long and two and a half high; hollow it out lengthways on both ends and on each side form semicircles two inches in diameter; carve the croutons nicely, fry in butter, and fasten firmly to a dish. Out the sirloin up lengthwise on the bias, lay the pieces in the hollow and the minion fillets in the center. Fasten a skewer garnished with cocks'-combs and kidneys and crawfish in the middle, and one on each of the two ends, and around with croustades garnished with the above prepared garnishing. Serve a huntress sauce (No. 481) with the meat. (2186), SADDLE OF VENISON A L'ATHALIN (Selle de Ohevreuil a 1'Athalin). For cutting up a venison saddle see Fig. 322. Pare a saddle of venison, removing the skin covering the sirloin; lard it with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52) across the grain of the meat and marinate for twelve hours in cold cooked marinade (No. 114). Put it in a baking pan with bards of fat pork on top and the marinade; pour butter over and when half cooked baste with more butter and besprinkle with flour. Set the parings into a sautoir with a stalk of celery, onions containing cloves and a bunch of parsley garnished with garlic, thyme and bay leaf; moisten with red wine and stock (No. 194a), boil and simmer for one hour, then thicken lightly with a little kneaded butter (No. 579); remove the saddle from the roasting pan and pour in some gravy (No. 404) to detach the glaze, then add it to the sauce and strain the whole through a tammy, skim off the fat and place a third of the sauce on a dish, dressing the saddle on top; serve the remainder separately in a sauce-boat and some currant jelly on a plate. (2187). SADDLE OF VENISON A LA MAOMAHON (Selle de Ohevreuil a la MacMahon). Pare and marinate a saddle the same as for a I'Athalin (No. 2186). One hour before dinner drain and roast it in the oven, and when done skim off the fat and put in half a pint of the marinade and as much raw cream; reduce the sauce, cut some medium-sized apples in quarters, range them in a liberally buttered sautoir, bestrew with a little powdered sugar and pour butter over, place in the oven, and when cooked dress the saddle, glaze and pour over a little gravy (No. 404); range the apples on each side and serve the sauce separately. (2188). SADDLE OF VENISON A LA MOKTON (SeUe de Ohevreuil k la Morton). Pare, lard and roast a saddle of venison; as soon as it is done cut off the tenderloin and replace it without deforming the meat, then pour over a little gravy (No. 404) and garnish around with macaroni croquettes, glazed turnips, fried Jerusalem artichokes, boiled white beans and boiled potato balls three-quarters of an inch in size ; serve currant jelly apart, also a poivrade sauce (No. 522) having a little Worcestershire added and the whole stirred with some maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581), when ready to serve. (2389). SADDLE OF VENISON, TYEOLESE STYLE (Selle de Ohevreuil a la Tyrolienne). Prepare and roast the saddle the same as the one with currant jelly (No. 2193); detach the glaze from the pan with a little port wine, a small quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and into it put as much currant jelly, then strain through a fine sieve. Lay the meat on a long dish, pour some good gravy (No. 404) over and surround with tartlets of sour apple marmalade covered with puff paste parings (No. 146); serve the sauce apart. (2190). SADDLE OF VENISON LAKDED AIGRELETTE SAUCE (Selle de Ohevreuil a la Sauce Aigrelette), Lard the saddle the same as explained for saddle with currant sauce (No. 2193), put it in a dish, the minion fillet side uppermost and the larded side underneath, season with mignonette, cloves, garlic, vinegar, onions, thyme, bay leaf and lemon juice; after it has been steeping for six hours, remove and roast it in the oven or on a spit and dress on a hot oval dish; serve an aigrelette sauce (No. 544) separately. 070 THE EPICUREAN. (2191). SADDLE OP VENISON, GASTRONOME (Selle de Chevreuil, Gastronome). Trim and lard a saddle of venison; lay it in a baking pan covered with slices of fat pork, carrots, onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; moisten with white wine and stock (No. 194a) and cook in the oven, basting at frequent intervals with white melted butter; when done and of a fine color cut it up lengthways of the meat and reconstruct it as before, strain the stock, remove all the fat and reduce, add Marsala wine, serve the sauce sepa rately. Garnish the ends with mushrooms or cepes and olives stuffed with anchovies, and gas tronome potatoes (No. 2789; at the ends. Serve also a Colbert sauce (No. 451) with the meat. (2192). SADDLE OF VENISON-BREADED-BLACK CHERRY SAUCE (Selle de Chevreuil Panee Sauce aux Cerises Noires). Instead of larding the saddle, it can be breaded when three-quarters cooked by sprinkling over with white bread-crumbs or pumpernickel; pour on some butter and brown in a hot oven. A black cherry sauce (No. 447) seasoned with cinnamon accompanies this. (2193). SADDLE OP VENISON, PORT WINE SAUCE AND CURRANT JELLY (Selle de Olevreuil a la Sauce Oporto et a la Gelee de Groseilles). Cut the saddle from a roebuck the same as a saddle of mutton, leaving one rib adhere to the end of the loin on both sides; remove the haunch, cutting it off rounded or straight, while crossing thu thick loin end; pare the surplus fat and remove the skin carefully that covers the sirloin: lard it with two rows of lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52) inserting them into the meat across the saddle, and the entire length of the sirloin. Roast it either on the spit or in the oven, detach the pan, glaza with a little gravy (No. 404), strain this through a sieve, skim off the fat and pour it over the s*ddle. Serve separately, but at the same time some currant jelly or port wine, and jelly sauce m^e by dissolving the jelly in port wine and thickening it with brown sauce (No. 414). (2194). SADDLE OF VENISON-ROASTED (Selle de Chevreuil Rotie), Unless the meat is far advanced it is unnecessary to marinate it; simply pare the pieceo and suppress the skin so as to be able to lard the flesh with larding pork, either crosswise or lengthwise, with lardons. Saddles and quarters of venison are roasted either on the spit or in the oven, basting over with butter. A small saddle of venison takes forty mniutes FIG 4oo7~ to cook. Roasted venison is served either with a clear gravy (No. 404), a brown sauce (No. 414) with lemon juice added, or else a sauce prepared with the stock it was cooked in, mingled with half-glaze (No. 400), then reduced with raw cream and finished with lemon juice or a dash of vinegar. Or it can also be served with currant jelly dissolved in espagnole sauce (No. 414) and port wine. (2195). VENISON GRENADINS A LA ROYALE-TENDERLOIN (Grenadins de Filet de Chevreuil a la Royale). Trim off some grenadins from the minion fillets, each one to weigh five ounces, and pare into half hearts; after removing the sinews lard with fine larding pork (No. 4, Fig. 52), and marinate for twelve hours; dry, wipe and saut6 in good hot fat; drain, glaze and dress in a circle, filling the center with potato quenelles breaded and fried in clarified butter; serve a Colbert sauce (No. 451) separately. (2196). VENISON NOISETTES A LA THIERRY-TENDERLOIN (Noisettes de Filet de Ohevreuil a la Thierry). Cut the tenderloin into slices, each to weigh four ounces when pared and rounded; lay them in a sautoir with melted butter, season with salt, mignonette, a whole clove of garlic and a bay leaf. Just before serving place the saucepan on a hot fire and saute" them quickly; lay each noisette on a bread crouton fried in butter of the same diameter and a quarter of an inch thick; dress them in a circle and in the center have a garnishing of game quenelles made with a coffeespoon (No. 155), truffles cut in the shape of crescent olives mixed with espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with game essence (No. 389) and Madeira wine. G-AME. 671 i2197). VEUISON TOUEffEDOS ST. HUBEET-TENDEELOIN (Touraedos de Filet de Ohevreuil St. Hubert). Pare some slices to weigh three ounces each, season and saute" them briskly in a saute" pan with butter; drain, wipe, glaze and dress on a bed of soubise pur<5e (No. 723); garnish around with Spanish olives stuffed with anchovies. Serve separately a tomato sauce (No. 549), mixed with grated horseradish. (2198). WOODCOCKS A LA OAVOUE (Brasses a la Oavour), Cut six woodcocks in four each and withdraw the intestines, discarding the pouch and gizzard. Fry the quartered birds in butter with some truffles, mushrooms and escaloped sweetbreads; moisten with a little white wine and season with salt, pepper and finely cut-up chives. Fry also the intestines in butter, with the parings, some minced ham, carrots and onions, mushroom parings, all well chopped, thyme and bay leaf; wet with a little white wine when cooked, press through a tainrny and add this pulp to the woodcocks; moisten once more with white wine and a little brown sauce (No. 414), despumate well and reduce to a proper degree; dress the meat in a border made of risot (No. 739) and pour the sauce over. (2199). WOODCOCKS A LA DUMAS (Brasses a la Dumas). Pick, singe and truss eight woodcocks, put them into a saucepan with fresh butter and fry over a brisk fire, adding chopped shallots, salt, pepper and nutmeg. When the birds are cooked drain off the fat, add to their stock the juice of one lemon, a quarter of a bottleful of cham- pagne and half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414); reduce and put in some whole truffles, cocks'- combs and kidneys. Diess the woodcocks on some stuffed crusts (No. 51) and place the garnishing around. (2200). BEEASTS OF WOODCOCKS A LA DIANE (Ailes ou Filets de Brasses a la Diane). Raise the breasts from six well-cleaned woodcocks, remove all the sinews and skin and stiffen them while heating in a little butter; place them under a light weight. Make a dressing with the intestines, removing the gizzard and pouch, adding a little chicken liver and grated fat pork, chopped parsley and seasoning; fill some hollow crusts with this, pour butter over and poach in a slack oven; on each crust lay a woodcock breast brushed with game glaze (No. 398), then dress them in a circle, stick either a whole or half head in each crouton and fill the center with olive-shaped game quenelles (Fig. 83); cover with brown Perigord sauce (No. 516). (2201). BEEASTS OF WOODCOCKS A LA HOUSTON (Ailes ou Filets de Brasses a la Houston). Fry quickly in butter six breasts of woodcocks previously cleaned, singed, and seasoned; as soon as cooked, drain them off. Cook the small part of the intestines before pounding and rubbing them through a sieve. Prepare a little game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), mix in with it an equal quantity of liver baking forcemeat (No. 64), and the pounded intestines. With this preparation fill a smooth buttered border mold (Fig 139), having the bottom rounded, and poach it in a bain- marie. Take a part of the woodcock carcasses, to make a good fumet (No. 397), and after it has been strained and the fat removed, incorporate it into a good brown sauce (No. 414) while re- ducing, also a few spoonfuls of Madeira. When the sauce has attained succulence, strain it over the woodcock breasts, and keep them in a bain-marie. Fry quickly in a frying-pan, with oil and melted butter, half a pound of peeled truffles cut in slices or in large shreds, season and drain off the fat, pour over a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine, and reduce; then add it to the prepared breasts, and dress the whole in the inside of the border, unmolded, on a hot dish. (2202). BEEASTS OF WOODCOCKS* A LA MANOELLE (Ailes ou Filets de Brasses a la Mancelle). First clean and singe six woodcocks, then roast them; remove all the breast part, and cut off the remainder of the meat to pound with the same quantity of rice; obtain a pure"e, and combine it with a little espagnole (No. 414) reduced with game fumet (No. 397). Cut some thin slices of foies-gras, pare them into ovals, and dip in flour, then fry in butter; dress the fillets alternating them with the slices of foies-gras; pour into the bottom of the dish a little espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with woodcock fumet (No. 397) and Madeira wine, and to the remainder of the auce add truffles and mushrooms cut in one-eighth inch squares, serving this separately. 672 THE EPICUREAN. FIG. 407. (2203). BREASTS OP WOODCOCKS A LA VATEL (Ailes ou Pilets de Blouses a la Vatel). Kaise the breasts from six fine woodcocks, remove the skin and sinews, and fry them in butter over a brisk fire. Fill some heart-shaped bottomless molds with a game quenelle forcemeat made from the woodcocks' legs and parings and young rabbit meat; poach them slowly in a slack oven, unmold, cool off, and lay on buttered paper, coat the tops with woodcock cream forcemeat, made as game cream forcemeat (No. 75), and dress the breasts two on each crouton; cover entirely with wood- cock cream forcemeat, smooth with a knife, shaping them into hearts, run the beak through from side to side between the forcemeat and fillet. Bestrew with finely chopped coral sifted through a sieve and imitate a flame with yellow tinted game quenelle forcemeat pushed through a cornet, on which place thin fillets of tongue. Pour butter o\er the whole and push into a moderate oven ; when removed lay them on top of a sauce made with game fumet (No. 397) and essence of truffles (No. 395), serving a financiere garnishing (No. 667), cut in salpicon (No. 741) apart. (2204). BKOILED WOODCOCKS (Brasses Grilles). Split the woodcocks lengthwise through the back; open entirely, beat lightly, pare, salt, and coat over with oil; broil them over a brisk fire (for they must be served quite rare) and when done dress them on oval toasts (No. 51); cover entirely with maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581), and serve very hot, surrounding the toast with sliced lemon (No. 113). (2205). WOODCOCKS ON CANAPES A LA PEEIGOED (Brasses sur Canape's a la PSrigord). Prepare some bread croutons three and three-quarter inches long, two and a FIG. 408. quarter inches wide and half an inch thick; cut off the four corners and empty an oblong square on each side one and three-quarters inch long by one inch wide; from each side of the middle remove a half circle an inch in diameter; hollow out the center so that when the bird is dressed it can stand upright on it; fry these in butter and empty the slit. Chop up some woodcock intestines with as much grated fat pork and as much chicken liver, season with salt and pepper and add chopped parsley, a little game glaze (No. 398) and a few egg-yolks, fill the hollowed out spaces on each end of the crouton (Fig. 41) with this, forming it into dome shape on top and push into the oven with butter poured over. Cook some pieces of truffle with grated fat pork, salt, pepper and fine spices (No. 168) and have it get cold. First begin by picking, singeing and cleaning the birds well; withdraw the gizzard, pouch and intestines; stuff the birds with the truffles and truss well for roasting and inserting the beak into the breast aperture; wrap in thin slices of fat pork, tying on with three rounds of string; roast for ten minutes and dress on the center of the croutons; serve these with a Madeira half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with essence of truffles (No. 395). (2206). WOODCOCKS EOASTED (Becasses Koties). Woodcocks can be roasted with their intestines or else drawn; the gizzard and pouch must always be removed, but the necks left on. Singe the birds, truss by inserting the beaks through the legs (Fig. 409); lard over and lay them on the spit, roast for twelve to sixteen minutes before a bright fire, basting over with butter and laying pieces of bread in the dripping pan, that is if the birds are not drawn; if they are, then cook their intestines separately with melted fat pork and a few Flo ^ good chicken livers, finishing them the same as the wood- cocks on canape's a la Perigord (No. 2205). After remov- ing the birds from the spit, salt them over, dress on a dish with the crusts and sliced lemon placed around; serve some gravy separately. The beak may be stuck in the stomach in front so that in case the bird is cut in two the head will be divided equally. (2207). SALMIS OF WOODCOCKS A LA BEAUMONT (Salmis de Becasses a la Beaumont). Roast five whole woodcocks, remove the intestines and cut each bird into five pieces, suppress all the skin and lay them in a sautoir. Pound the parings and carcasses, place the puree in a saucepan with three finely cut up shallots and a bunch of parsley garnished with a bay leaf. Moisten with a pint and a half of red or white wine or else champagne according to taste; reduce G-AME. 673 to half, then add a pint of espagnole (No. 414); let simmer on the side of the range for half an hour, being careful to remove all vestige of fat and scum as fast as it arises to the surface; pass the sauce through a tammy and reduce it to the consistency of a light one, adding some peeled and cut up truffles or mushrooms, or even both. Dress the woodcock on a dish and surround with the truffles or mushrooms; garnish around with hollow crusts filled with the intestines, as much chicken liver and half as much grated fat pork seasoned with salt, pepper and chopped parsley; then poach in the oven. (2208). SALMIS OP WOODCOCKS A LA SANDFOKD (Salmis de Brasses & la Sandford), Roast six woodcocks very rare; cut them in four, lift off all the skin and place the birds in an alcohol chafing dish; season with salt, pepper, add a little blanched shallot, three gills of wine, the juice of a lemon, a little fresh bread raspings and an ounce and a half of butter; simmer for a few moments, then serve. (2209). WOODCOCKS STUFFED (Brasses Farcies), Bone three woodcocks, remove the best part of their breast meat and cut these into large dice; lay them in a vessel and add an equal quantity of truffles and as much foies-gras; season these meats, and pour over two tablespoonfuls of Madeira. Pound the leg meats with those of three wild pigeons or as much of rabbit, adding a third as much panada (No. 121), and four egg-yolks; season and strain this forcemeat. Melt four tablespoonfuls of grated fat pork, add to it the woodcock intestines, also five or six good chicken livers, season highly and leave stand till cold, then strain and mix the forcemeat with this, also the meats and truffles laid away in the vessel. Fill the woodcock with this prepa- ration, shaping each one to resemble a boned turkey, and wrap a piece of fat pork around; attach them firmly in separate pieces of thin muslin, tying it on tight to keep them in proper shape, then cook in some good stock on a moderate fire for one hour; leave them in this partly cold, then drain, unwrap, and tie them up again tight until thoroughly cold, keeping them in shape, but not under the pressure of any weight. Unwrap them half an hour before serving, stand them upright in a saucepan with a little of their own stock, reduced to a half glaze; heat them in a very slack oven, basting over frequently, then dress them in a triangle on a forcemeat border, poached in the oven and turned out on a dish, having fastened to the center a portion of bread covered with some of the forcemeat. Place in the angles the three birds' heads, slightly cooked and glazed over with a brush; fasten three skewers garnished with truffles in the summit of the pad and cover the wood- cock, and border lightly over with a brown sauce (No. 414) prepared with the stock and the truffle parings. ADDITIONAL RECIPES. MISCELLANEOUS (2210). BOEDEE OP CHICKEN FOECEMEAT FILLED WITH CHICKEN BLANQUETTE A LA TOULOUSE (Bordure de farce de Volatile Garnie d'une Blanquette de Poulet a la Toulouse). Raise the fillets from six young, fat chickens; roll them in a buttered sautoir. "With the leg meats prepare a chicken and rice quenelle forcemeat (No. 79). Have a fancy border mold, butter n and fill it up with the forcemeat, place this border in a sautoir and poach for half an hour. FIG. 410. Pare the fillet pieces, saute them in butter, drain this off and replace it by fat bechamel (No. 409), and minced truffles added to it; keep it warm in a bain-marie. Trim a dozen truffles into round shapes an inch and a quarter in diameter, cook them in a little Madeira, add some meat glaze (No. 402), and put into a bain-marie. Unmold the border, dress the chicken blanquette in the center. Cover with a Toulouse garnishing (No. 766), and on the top of the garnishing arrange the prepared truffles. (2211). BOEDEE OP FISH FOECEMEAT A LA DUCHESS WITH CEAWFISH TAILS AND f MOEILS (Bordure de Farce de Poisson a la Duchesse aux Queues d'Ecrevisses et Morilles). Prepare a not too light cream fish forcemeat (No. 76) with some pike meat; also prepare a plen- tiful garnishing with good morils blanched and cooked, unshelled crawfish tails, slices from the tails of small freshly cooked lobsters, and poached oysters; lay all of these in a flat saucepan, and keep covered. Half an hour before serving fill a fancy border mold with the prepared forcemeat, and FIG. 411. poach for twenty-five minutes in a bain-marie. Besides this put on to reduce three gills of veloute" sauce (No. 415), incorporating into it slowly a few spoonfuls of good court bouillon (No. 38), and the oyster and crawfish broth; when this sauce becomes succulent, strain it over the garnishing, heat up without boiling, and finish with a piece of red butter (No. 580). At the last moment turn the border over on a hot dish and fill the center with the garnishings, dressing them in a doms without any sauce; on this lay four pretty cooked crawfish, having them whole, only the tails being shelled; place a small round truffle on the summit, and serve the sauce apart. (675) 676 TFLE EPICUREAN. (2212), BOEDEE OP EISOT VALENCIENNES (Sordino Is Eisot Valenciennes). Blanch and cook six beef palates in a good mirepoix stock (No.41{/), drain and leave them to cool under a weight, pare and cut up into large Julienne; lay these in a sautoir with three gills of Madeira sauce, simmer on a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, and when very tender add half the quantity FIG. 412. of freshly cooked truffles cut like the fillets. Have a good risot prepared with about a half pound of Piedmontese rice (No. 739); as soon as done remove and mix in one spoonful of sweet Spanish pepper reduced to a pulp; cover the saucepan and keep it for five to six minutes on the side of the range and then finish with butter and grated parmesan; season to taste. With this rice fill a buttered border mold, as shown in the cut, place it for a few moments in the heater to harden, then unmold it on a dish and fill the center with beef palate preparation; serve at once. (2213). BOEDEE OP EISOT OF LOBSTEES OE SPINY LOBSTEES (Bordure de Eisot de Homards ou de Langoustes). Boil two good lobsters or spiny lobsters in a white wine court-bouillon (No. 419), drain, and five to six minutes later detach the tails from the body and keep them warm in a few spoonfuls of their liquor. Cook four or five uniform-sized peeled truffles in Madeira wine, cut them up in broad slices of an inch thickness and keep them warm in a saucepan with their own broth that has been strained and mixed with a little melted meat glaze (No. 402). With half a pound of good Pied- montese rice prepare a risot (No. 739) cooked with plain fish broth (No. 195) and a small spoonful of prepared red pepper (No. 168); as soon as done finish with fine butter and fresh parmesan; mold FIG. 418. it in a buttered border mold, as shown in the cut, and keep it slightly warm. Split two lobster bodies, take out all the creamy parts, press through a sieve and lay it aside. Chop half of the shells, fry them in oil for a few moments and sprinkle with a pinch of prepared red pepper (No. 168), then moisten with two or three gills of good court-bouillon and white wine (No. 419); cook slowly for ten to twelve minutes, strain the liquid, free it of fat and reduce to a half-glaze; thicken with a gill and a half of good tomato sauce (No. 549), and reduce it once more for a few moments, then remove from the fire and finish with two spoonfuls of the creamy parts from the bodies, add some butter, stir vigorously and lastly put in two or three spoonfuls of the reduced truffle broth. Suppress the tail shells hastily, pare the meats, trim off the thin ends and cut all the pieces in not too thick slices; lay them in a sautoir and cover with a few spoonfuls of the sauce buttered at the very last momer Unmold the border on a hot dish and in the center place the slices of lobster and the truffles in a pyramidical form; pour part of the sauce over, serving what remains in a separate sauce-boat. MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 677 (2214). EOUDINS OF CHICKEN A L'EOAKLATE (Boudins de Volaille a 1'E'carlate), This entree is dressed on a low rice croustade (Fig.9a) slightly hollowed on top. First cook two small red beef tongues in boiling water with the pared meats taken from a large raw chicken, pre- pare a quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), keeping it rather firm; season tastily and smooth by working it with a spoon, then finish by incorporating in slowly some bechamel sauce (No. 409) reduced with chopped fresh mushrooms until it becomes succulent and thick, but do not pass it through a sieve. After the sauce is well mixed with the forcemeat divide it into seven or eight equal parts and roll, these into pieces, two and a half inches long and three-quarters of an inch thick, on a floured table, press them down a little with the blade of a knife to decrease their thickness. Range these boudins as soon as done one beside the other on a lightly buttered raised-edge baking tin and cover with salted hot water, then heat the liquid until the forcemeat hardens. Drain the boudins on a cloth, pare them evenly and dip them in beaten egg-whites, then in white bread-crumbs. Now drain the tongues, cut them into lengthwise slices not too thin, and pare them at once, giving them an oval shape, then cutting them lengthwise through the center: roll them in a sautoir with half-glaze (No. 400) so as to cover them lightly and dress them in a row, alternating each one with a boudin; cover these with a little good reduced veloute (No. 415) mixed with a montglas composed of chicken with half as many truffles and mushrooms cut in fillets. Surround the base with a chain of small round truffles glazed over with a brush. Send to the table at the same time a sauce-boat of veloute sauce. (2215). BOUDINS OP CHICKEN A LA SOUBISE (Boudins de Volaille a la Soubise), Have half a pound of leaf lard chopped up very finely, add to it one ounce of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, pound the two together, then press through a sieve. Put this into a bowl with half a pound of raw chicken meat minced very finely, mingle well together and gradually add half a pint of soubise onion puree (No. 723), nine raw egg-yolks, a quarter of a pound of raw truffles (if obtainable), cut in three-sixteenths inch squares, and with this preparation fill some ready prepared sheep's casings three inches long and one inch in diameter, not too full, throw them into boiling water, remove them almost immediately and prick them with a larding needle, then broil them over a very slow fire; serve a soubise sauce (No. 543) in a separate sauce-boat. (2216). BOUDINS OP CHICKEN AU CAEDINAL (Boudins de Volaille au Cardinal). Prepare a consistent chicken forcemeat (No. 75), cut half of a medium-sized onion into small one- eighth inch squares, blanch, refresh and drain, then fry them colorless in butter, stirring continuously; drain well and mix this with the forcemeat. Butter sixteen molds the shape of the half of a small boudin (this shape is well shown in the quenelles, Fig. 81), three and five-eighths inches long by one and three-eighths inches wide. Scatter some finely chopped lobster coral over the iusides of these molds and fill them up with the forcemeat, leaving an empty space in the center; fill this with a salpicon composed of truffles, red beef tongue and mushrooms cut in three-sixteenths inch squares and mingled with some well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407). After they are ready place eight on top of the other eight, the salpicon to be in the center; twenty minutes before serving lay them in a flat saucepan one beside the other, pour some boiling water over and poach without boiling, then drain and unmold on a napkin. Dress them in a row on a dish, one close to the other, on a lobster sauce (No. 488), buttered with lobster butter (No. 580); serve some of the same sauce in a sauce-boat and throw over some chopped lobster coral. (2217). BOUDINS OF CHICKEN WITH MONTEBELLO SAUCE (Boudins de Volaille a la Sauce Montebello). Put a pound and a quarter of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) into a vessel; smooth and mix in a quarter as much salpicon ot truffles and cooked foies-gras. Lift the forcemeat with a tablespoon and push it with the finger to have it fall on a floured table; roll these pieces into sausage shapes, flatten a little on both sides with the blade of a knife, then range them at once in small quantities on a smooth and floured saucepan lid without once handling them. Place a saute pan on the fire with water, salt it when it reaches boiling point, then slide in the boudins, boil up once and remove to the side of the range, leaving in the boudins until the forcemeat hardens, then lift them out with a skimmer and lay them on a cloth, one next to the other, to wipe and pare lightly. Dip them into beaten egg, roll in fresh white bread-crumbs and place them on the bottom of a sautoir with clarified butter to brown both sides while turning them over carefully; drain and dish in a circle on a Montebello sauce (No. 502). 678 THE (2218). BOUDINS OF GAME A LA BERCHOUX (Boudins de Gibier a la Berchoux). Cook on a slow fire half a pound of chopped leaf lard with a quarter of a pound of chopped onions, and let get cold. Have half a pound of cooked and finely chopped game meat and seven ounces of soaked and well-pressed bread-crumbs; pound both of these together and pass through a sieve; put it into a bowl and mix in gradually the onions and lard, also two gills of bechamel sauce (No. 409), seven raw egg-yolks, a quarter of a pound of chopped mushrooms, and truffles, some salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and nutmeg. Fill some ready prepared sheep's casings, three inches long and one inch wide, with this preparation not too full and plunge them into boiling water; prick them with a larding needle, and then broil them over a slow fire. Serve a Berchoux sauce (No. 434) separately. (2219). BOUDINS OP GAME OE CHICKEN BLOOD A LA VICTORIA (Boudins de Sang de Gibier ou de Sang de Volatile a la Victorin). Collect a pint of blood either from a hare, rabbit or chicken, stir into it a little vinegar to pre- vent coagulation; cut half as much breast of fat pork as there is blood into three-sixteenths of an inch squares, fry these in butter with a little chopped onion and mix in the blood, or else fry the onion in butter and stir into the blood some cooked veal udder instead of the fat pork, a little apple marmalade, and mix together; season well with salt, pepper, a little sugar and cream. With this preparation fill some sheep's casings one inch in diameter; when filled, but not too tight, divide them in three-inch lengths, tying the ends; poach, drain and when cold rub them over with lard; prick and broil them on a slow fire and serve plain without any sauce. (2220). BOUDINS OP KINGFISH A LA PONIATOWSKI (Boudins de Kingfish a la Poniatowski). Prepare a quenelle forcemeat of kingfish (No. 90), into which add an eighth of its quantity of chopped truffles; roll them into round pieces three-quarters of an inch in diameter and two and a half inches long; wrap each one separately in buttered paper, then poach in boiling salted water; drain, dip in beaten egg, and fry in clarified butter. Drain and dress on a folded napkin; serve a separate sauce-boat of Polish sauce (No. 524). (2221). BOUDINS OF SALMON WITH SHRIMPS (Boudins de Saumon aux Crevettes). Prepare one pound of fish quenelle forcemeat made with salmon (No. 90). Butter some bou- din molds the same as for boudins of chicken au cardinal (No. 2216) and garnish the sides with the delicately prepared salmon forcemeat, adding to it four ounces of fresh mushrooms, and two ounces of truffles, both cut into eighth of an inch square bits; lay one mold on top of the other, and set them in a sautoir close together; pour over boiling water, and put them to poach in a slack oven; unmold and dress them on a well-buttered Normande sauce (No. 509). (2222). SKEWERS OF CHICKEN LIVERS, COLBERT SAUCE (Brochettes de Foies de Poulet, Sauce Colbert). Cut up into one-inch squares some chicken livers; season with salt and pepper and run them on to metal skewers (Fig. 176), intercalating each piece with a thin one-inch square of bacon; coat over with oil or melted butter, roll in bread-crumbs and broil over a slow fire; dress them on a Colbert sauce (No. 451). (2223). SKEWERS OP LAMPREYS, MARINADE SAUCE (Brochettes de Lamproies, Sauce Marinade). Skin a fine lamprey, clean well and cut off the head, also the thin tail end, then divide it into quarter-inch pieces; lay these in a tureen with sliced onions, parsley, a clove of garlic, truffle peelings, aromatic herbs, allspice, salt and a little brandy, and let macerate for a few hours in a cool place, tossing them about at short intervals; when sufficiently steeped drain them off and wipe dry; run an iron skewer (Fig. 176) through, alternating each slice with one of fresh, fat salt pork. Set these brochettes on a baking sheet, pour a little butter over and cook them in the oven, basting frequently with more melted butter. Add to the marinade two gills of brown sauce (No. 414), as well a half a pint of stock (No. 194a); remove all scum rising for a quarter of an hour while standing it on the side of the range; remove all its fat MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 679 and afterward strain the sauce, pour into it half a glassful of Marsala wine, reduce again for ten minutes, keeping it in a bain-marie (Fig. 122). When the pieces of fish are cooked, take them from the oven, sprinkle them liberally with salt and dress on a dish, surrounding them with cut-up lemons, and serve the sauce separately. (2224). BROOEETTES OP LOBSTEKS (Brochettes de Homard). Plunge some live lobsters in boiling water just sufficiently long to easily detach the meat from the shells; drain them, and break the tail shells so as to obtain all the meat contained therein; cut this up into transversal slices three-sixteenths of an inch thick, season them highly with salt and prepared red pepper (No. 168). immerse them in melted butter, and run skewers (Fig. 176) through the pieces, alternating each one with slices of cooked mushrooms; lay them again in butter, and broil them over a steady fire for twelve to fourteen minutes. Dress them on a dish, pour over some Colbert sauce (No. 451); serve very hot. (2225). OYSTER BROOHETTES (Brochettes aux Huitres). Poach lightly some large oysters in their own liquor, dry them on a cloth, pare, and lay them in a deep plate, season and mix them with some fine herbs cooked with truffles (No. 385) and a pinch of sweet peppers; cover the oysters with oil, and roll them in this seasoning. Kun them one by one on small skewers (Fig. 176), alternating each with slices of cooked mushrooms; brush them Over with melted butter, roll them in bread-crumbs and broil them for six or seven minutes, turning them frequently, then dress them at once. Brochettes the same as the above are prepared by wrapping each seasoned oyster in a thin slice of bacon, or else alternating each oyster with a square of bacon; run the skewers through both and cook them over a hot fire. (2226). BROOHETTES OP SWEETBREADS (Brochettes de Ris de Veau), Blanch the sweetbreads, suppress the windpipes and fat and place them under a weight to reduce to the thickness of an inch; when cold cut them lengthwise into slices an inch square; cut these into pieces three-eighths of an inch thick; season with salt, pepper, oil and chopped parsley; run each square on small silver skewers (Fig. 176), alternating them with a thin piece of bacon cut an inch square; besprinkle with white bread-crumbs and broil over a slow fire for fifteen to eighteen minutes, having all four sides equally cooked. Dress on a hot dish, pour maitre d'hotel butter over (No. 581) and garnish with slices of lemon. (2227). OASES A LA MONTGLAS-SMALL (Petites Oaisses a la Montglas). Cut some chicken fillets into fine Julienne, also truffles and red beef tongue; put on the fire to reduce two gills of good espagnole (No. 414), incorporating into it slowly the truffle broth, and a few spoonfuls of Madeira and meat glaze (No. 402) ; it should be succulent and thick, then throw in the Julienne, and remove the saucepan at once from the fire, to allow the contents to cool off. With some liver baking forcemeat (No. 73), mingled with a little raw quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), line the bottom and sides of about fifteen china cases, making a hole in the center of each; into this place a little of the prepared montglas, and cover with more of the forcemeat, smoothing it down with the blade of a small knife. Range the cases on a baking sheet containing a little hot water and keep them in a slack oven for fifteen to eighteen minutes in order to poach the forcemeat and montglas. After removing the cases cover the tops with a layer of Madeira sauce (No. 492), and return them to the oven for two minutes to have them attain a glossy appearance. Dress in a circle on a folded napkin, garnishing the center with a layer of very green parsley leaves. (2228). CASES OF ENGLISH SNIPE A LA OAREME (Oaisses de Be~cassines Anglaises a la Oareme). Bone nine snipe thoroughly after they have been well-singed and cleaned ; fill them with game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) into which mix a little Madeira and cooked fine herbs (No. 385); lay them in oval molds the size of the inside of the paper cases in which they are to be served, and cover with slices of fat pork; cock them in the oven for twenty minutes. Oil a sufficient number of paper cases, turn them over on to a grater and stiffen in the oven; cover the bottom and sides with delicate game forcemeat (No. 75), into which mix some chopped truffles. Lay the unmolded snipe in 680 THE: EPICUREAN. the center, reconstruct the heads naturally, frnitating the eyes with a little white forcemeat, and a small round of truffle; push the beak on the neck end leaving only the head protrude, then place the cases in a buttered sautoir, cover with a round of buttered paper, and push into the oven to poach the forcemeat; drain off all the fat, and cover with a brown sauce (No. 414) made with a game essence (No. 389) extracted from the carcasses, and some Madeira wine. (2229). OASES WITH FAT LIVERS SMALL (Petites Oaisses de Foies-Gras). Cut into small escalops half of a large cooked fat liver; put it into a small sautoir with an equal bulk of escalops of cooked truffles cut the same size as the livers; moisten these with a little good, thick sauce reduced with Madeira; let simmer without boiling for seven or eight minutes, then FIG. 415. take it off and leave to cool partly. With this stew fill eight or ten china cases, cover the tops quickly with a thick layer of chicken forcemeat (No. 89), smooth nicely, and then range the cases on a small baking sheet. Poach the forcemeat in a slack oven, warming the stew at the same time, and finally cover the surface of the forcemeat with a little cold Madeira sauce (No. 492) applied with a brush; return to the oven for two minutes to gloss the sauce, and then dress the cases pyramid- ically on a folded napkin. (2230). OASES OF LAKES OR SNOW BIRDS (Oaisses d'Alouettes). Bone thoroughly one dozen snow birds or larks ; put the intestines into a pan with grated fat pork, a few chicken livers and a few foies-gras parings, fry over a quick fire, season and mix in some mush- room peelings. When this preparation is cold, pound and press it through a sieve, then mix in with it twelve ounces of chopped and pounded fat pork, four ounces of chopped and pounded lean pork, pound all together and pass through a sieve. Take out a third part and divide the other two-thirds into twelve parts and fill the birds with them; roll them up into balls, range them on the bottom of a saucepan and brush over with a little melted game glaze (No. 398) and Madeira wine, cook them quickly for a few minutes to stiffen, then remove. Oil twelve small oval paper cases, having them an inch and a quarter wide by two inches long; drain and set them on the grater to stiffen in the oven; cover the bottoms and sides with a layer of the forcemeat (No. 73), set a bird on top of each case, range them on a small baking sheet, push into a slack oven and a few moments later baste the birds with a little melted game glaze (No. 398); remove them five minutes after, dress on a dish and brush over with some good reduced sauce. (2231). OASES OF OYSTERS A LA HILTON (Oaisses d'Huitres a la Hilton). Prepare and line the cases exactly as for Lorenzo (No. 2232); fill them with small oysters after removing the muscle or ligament, cover over fine herbs cooked dry (No. 385), and finish with a bechamel sauce (No. 409), reduced with the oyster liquor, well seasoned; besprinkle with fried bread- crumbs, brown in a hot oven and serve on folded napkins. (2232). OASES OF OYSTERS A LA LORENZO (Oaisses d'Huitres k la Lorenzo). Either buttered metal or china cases may be used for these, or else buttered paper ones stif- fened in the oven; cover their bottoms and sides with a thin layer of fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), mixed with some soubise puree (No. 723). Poach medium-sized oysters in their own liquor and white wine; drain and pare them, cut them up into pieces half an inch in size, and use MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 681 these to fill in the cases; set on top some mushrooms that have been chopped up raw, fried in butter, then covered with veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with the oyster liquor and finished with FIG. 410. a piece of lobster butter (No. 580) and a dash of cayenne; cover over with a layer of the same force- meat, smooth and moisten the tops with a brush dipped in melted butter; range the cases on a baking sheet, and set them in a slack oven from twelve to fifteen minutes, then serve. (2233). OASES OF QUAILS A LA DEJAZET (Oaisses de Oailles a la Dejazet). Bone thoroughly some well-cleaned quails, open them on a cloth, season with salt, pepper and nut- meg, cover the inside meats with a layer f game forcemeat (No. 91) with chopped truffles added and envelop the forcemeat, forming them in the shape of an egg, and lay them inside of bottomless oval molds of the same size as the paper cases in which they are to be served; set the molds on a baking sheet, cover with thin slices of fat pork, moisten with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419) and cook in a hot oven. Mask the bottom and sides of the paper cases previously oiled and stiffened with a thin layer of quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) and the same quantity of cooked forcemeat (No. 73), both well mixed together; put the quails in the center and push into the oven for about twenty minutes, then cover with a salmis sauce (No. 536), mixed with the strained and skimmed braise stock. (2234). OASES OP SQUABS A LA POLSOM AND CASES OF SQUABS A LA UMBEETO (Oaisses de Pigeonneaux k la Polsom et Oaisses de Pigeonneaux a la Umberto). Pluck well all the pin feathers from some drawn, singed and cleaned squabs; bone them en- tirely, beginning by making an incision in the meat on the back and following the line down on each side with the help of a small knife; remove the breast and wing bones, then fill the inside with chicken forcemeat (No. 89) into which has been mingled mushrooms and truffles chopped up fine, fried in butter and wetted with a little Madeira. Oil the insides of some paper cases, turn them upside down on a baking pan, push them into the oven to stiffen and then cover the bottoms and sides with a layer of the same forcemeat; set the squabs on top, one on each, and cover with a slice of fat pork; cook them in a slack oven for half an hour. Drain off the fat and dress the cases in a circle, having on top of each one a channeled mushroom head (No. 118); pour a Madeira sauce (No. 492) over that has been reduced with some mushroom essence (No. 392). Cases of Squabs a, la Umberto. Butter or oil as many oval paper cases as there are squabs to be prepared; place them in the oven to stiffen and brown, then drain. Bone the birds, stuff them with a delicate quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which mix chopped truffles and mush- rooms; lay them in a sautoir in oval rings of the same diameter as the cases, moisten with a little mirepoix stock (No. 419), reduce it to a glaze, then remoisten to half the height of the squabs, and when done the stock ought to be well reduced; lay them in the cases and cover over with African sauce (No. 424), dress and serve. (2235). OASES OF SWEETBEEADS A LA GEAMMONT (Oaisses de Eis de Veau a la Grammont). Blanch and braise the sweetbreads as indicated in la Montebello (No. 1560), then put them in round rings under the pressure of a weight. Melt some butter; fry in it a little shallot, parsley. 082 THE EPICUREAN. mushrooms and truffles, all finely chopped, season and moisten with Madeira wine; let fall to a half-glaze, then thicken with egg-yolks. Fill some cases half full of these herbs, lay the sweet- FIG. 417. breads on top and cover each one with a slice of fat pork; place them in the oven, and when cooked remove the pork and drain; pour the stock over the sweetbreads; when cooked reduce to a half-glaze. (2236). OASES OP THRUSHES (Oaisses de Grives). Select six good, fat thrushes, not taking those that are too large; singe and split them down the back to bone the breasts and draw the insides; season the interior meats and lay in each one a ball of game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), mixed with a third as much of the intestines from the birds, cooked, pounded and rubbed through a sieve. Sew up the opening on the top, truss the legs and shorten the stumps. Melt some grated fat pork in a saucepan, range the birds in this, season and fry while turning them over until partly cooked, then drain and draw out the sewing thread without disturbing the legs. Add to the fat in the saucepan two or three spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), a pinch of bread-crumbs and some grated fat pork, obtaining a light paste. Oil over with a brush six oval paper cases, and on the bottom of each spread a layer of this paste and over place a thrush; set the cases on a buttered sheet, cover with buttered paper and push into a slack oven to finish cooking the birds. At the last moment remove, untruss the legs, glaze over with a brush and set each case inside another white one in order to serve them neatly. (2237). OASES OF THRUSHES A LA DIANA (Oaisses de Grives a la Diane). Split eight thrushes through the back, leaving on the breastbone and legs; stuff them with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), add to this forcemeat a third of its volume of foies-gras from a terrine, mix well together and inclose a ball of the forcemeat an inch and a half in size in a bird, and place them in buttered oval tin rings, covering over with thin layers of fat pork, and cook them in a slack oven. Oil some oval paper cases, turn them on to a grater and lay this on a baking sheet, stiffen them in the oven, remove and line them with a light layer of the same forcemeat; place a thrush inside of each and push them into a slow oven for twelve min- utes; as soon as done remove the pork, drain off the fat and cover with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and game fumet (No. 397); set the case inside of another cleaner and larger one, then serve. (2238). CASSEROLES OF LAMB SWEETBREADS A LA DE LUYNES (Casseroles de Ris d'Agneau a la de Luynes). Braise twelve unlarded lamb sweetbreads as for la Montebello (No. 1560); when cooked place under a weight to reduce to half an inch thick, and when cold cut them up into squares, as well as a quarter as many cooked truffles into one-quarter of an inch squares. Put on to reduce some bechamel sauce (No. 409), stirring into it some truffle essence and a little good melted game glaze (No. 398); when the sauce is properly reduced, add to it the salpicon of sweetbreads and truffles. Fill some small porcelain or silver casseroles (flat saucepans) with this preparation, having them quite full and rounded on the top; smooth the surfaces dome-shaped with a knife, let get cold and then cover over with a thin layer of forcemeat, besprinkle with parmesan and bread-crumbs, pour a little melted butter over, then bake lightly in a slack oven. MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 683 (2239). CASSEROLE OP EIOE WITH CHICKEN OE YOUNG GUINEA FOWL A LA PALESTINE (Casserole de Riz Garnie de Poulet on Pintade a la Palestine). Pick and wash in several waters, one pound of rice, more or less according to the size of the casserole that is to be made. Place it in a saucepan, moisten with double its quantity of water and cover entirely with slices of fat pork, salt over and allow to cook, then drain and pound, moistening with a little water. Put this into a saucepan on the fire and let get dry, then turn it over on tc a baking sheet or a marble slab and taking in the hands a little less than half, mold it to the shape of a mushroom head, proceeding exactly the same with the other half, keeping back a piece to roll into a round form, then flatten it down to half its thickness. Dress the croustade, laying the fiat side of one of the small mushroom pieces on a sheet of paper, then fasten the flattened ball in the center and place the other large mushroom on top of this, only having it reversed, the widest part uppermost. Carve the croustade all around and cover it with clarified butter, then brown in a brisk oven and empty out the inside; fill it with fillets or breasts of chicken sauted in clarified butter and small artichoke bottoms cut in four, also some truffles; when these ingredients are well done dress them inside the croustade; drain the fat from the sautoir, moisten with a little Madeira to detach the glaze, then add some half-glaze sauce (No. 413), reduce, and pour it over the chickens; garnish around the top with hatelets of chicken Villeroi. A Potato Casserole can be prepared the same as the one of rice, having a very dry mashed potato preparation moistened with raw egg-yolks, then molded; baste butter over and brown in the oven; empty it out and fill up with chicken livers sauted in butter with cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and Madeira sauce (No. 492). (2240). CREAM OP PARTRIDGE OR CHICKEN (Oreme de Perdreau ou de Poulet). Pound the meats taken from two roast partridges or chickens, with a piece of butter, a few parings of cooked foies-gras and two or three spoonfuls of reduced veloute sauce (No. 415); pass the whole through a sieve. Dilute this pulp with ten egg-yolks and one whole one, two gills of good raw cream and two gills of very concentrated game fumet (No. 397) prepared with the partridge bones or those of the chickens. Pour this preparation into a small vegetable dish or small buttered timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137), and poach in a bain-marie, done by placing the dish in a saucepan containing hot water, having this water quiver only and not boil. As soon as the cream is set, remove to serve. (2241). CREAM OP PHEASANT, OHANTILLT (Oreme de Paisan, Chantilly), Pound the meats of a raw pheasant; season and pass them through a sieve; return to the mortar and pound again with four egg-yolks, and three-quarters as much butter; put this into a thin metal bowl, and beat on ice to render it smooth and acquire a body, mixing in about a gill of raw cream; try a little piece in the oven in a very small mold to discover its consistency, and rectify when necessary. Prepare a montglas composed of uncooked foies-gras, truffles, and recently cooked tender red beef tongue; place it in a small sautoir to mingle with two or three spoonfuls of veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 397); keep it in a bain-marie. Butter a mold (Fig. 139) with clarified butter; fill with the forcemeat, smooth the top, then poach in a bain-marie for twenty minutes, with a white paper laid on top; wipe the mold neatly after it has been removed, and turn the contents over on to a rice croustade foundation (Fig. 9a) fastened on to a dish; this to be an inch thick, and slightly wider than the mold; fill the hollow at once with the montglas; brush tile forcemeat lightly with a little of the veloute sauce, serving more separately. (2242). CREPINE OF LAMBS' TROTTERS, PERIGUEUX SAUCE (Orepine de Pieds d'Agneau, Sauce Pe'rigueux). Prepare and cook the lambs' trotters the same as for the poulette (No. 1768), drain and wipe; open them lengthways, ac>^ bone them entirely, using the utmost precaution not to tear the flesh; divide each one into two parts, season and fill the hollow place in each half foot with a salpicon composed of truffles, veal udder and cooked foies-gras, combined with raw quenelle forcemeat (No. 92), and a little baking forcemeat (No. 81); place on each four slices of truffle; wrap each half foot in a band of "crepine"or caul fat, previously well dried and beaten between two 684 THE EPICUREAN. cloths to reduce its thickness; roll these crepines in melted butter, then in bread-crumbs, smooth and equalize the surfaces with the blade of a knife, and boil them for twenty to thirty minutes over a very slow fire, turning them during the operation. Dress them on a very hot dish, and serve with a sauce-boat of Perigueux sauce (No. 517). (2243). CREPINE OF PULLET (Orepine de Poularde). Put half a pound of grated fat pork in a saucepan with as much butter and oil, set it on the fire with the pullet, and brown this to a fine color, then take out and untruss. Brown in butter some finely chopped shallot and mushrooms, season with salt, pepper and chopped parsley, let cool off, and use it to mask the surface of the pullet, then lay over a layer of not too hard quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and wrap the whole up in a piece of "crepine" or caul fat; baste with butter, bestrew with bread-crumbs, and place it in a hot oven to finish cooking the pullet; dress and pour around a buttered half-glaze sauce (No. 413), with lemon juice added. (2244). CREPINE OF BRAINS (Orepine de Gervelles). Prepare and cook some brains as for the poulette (No. 1481); when well drained, split them in four through the thickest part. Blanch one pound of onions, cut in eighth of an inch dice pieces, in salted water for ten minutes; drain them off, then fry these in butter to cook without coloring; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, thyme and bay leaf; add a quart of veloute sauce (No. 415), reduce well, suppress the thyme and bay leaf, and thicken with six egg-yolks and a little butter; let this preparation cool off partially, then envelop the slices of brains in plenty of it, and then wrap them in "crepine" or caul fat, giving each one a flat oval-shape; dip in butter and roll in bread-crumbs, broil over a slow fire, and serve on a slightly thickened aspic gravy (No. 391). (2245). OREPINE OF OHIOKEN A LA TURENNE- BREASTS (Orepine de Filets de Poulet k la Turenne). Pare and chop up finely half a pound of raw chicken fillets, and one pound of chopped fresh fat pork; season with an ounce of spiced salt (No. 168), and two tablespoonfuls of chopped truffles. Pound the chopped chicken, add to it the pork. Spread some pieces of "crepine" or caul fat on a napkin; divide half of the prepared forcemeat into inch and a half diameter balls, and lay on top of the crepine a fine slice of truffle, over this a forcemeat ball; flatten down to half, and place on top some minced mushrooms previously fried in butter with fine herbs, and on this lay another slice of truffle. Wrap the crepines into oval-shapes, and dip each in butter, then roll in bread-crumbs to broil over a slow fire; serve on a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) finished with mushroom essence (No. 392). (2246). OREPINE OF PIGEONS, POIVRADE SATJOE WITH TRUFFLE ESSENCE (Orepine de Pigeons, Sauce Poivrade a 1'Essence de Trufies). Truss six pigeons as for an entree (No. 178); braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) and when done transfer them to a vessel, straining the mirepoix stock over and then let get thoroughly cold. Spread some pieces of "crepine" or caul fat on the table; split the pigeons in two, pare nicely and cover with a forcemeat made of half a pound of veal and half a pound of veal suet, both being finely chopped and pounded to a pulp, then mix in two ounces of bread crumbs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, finely shredded chives, chopped up mushrooms and a few egg-yolks; when this forcemeat is of a sufficient smoothness, and has acquired a firmness, use it to cover over both sides of the pigeons, laying it on rather thick; place a few slices of truffles on top and wrap the whole in pieces of crepine; baste over with melted butter and roll in bread-crumbs, then put them in a slow oven to get very warm, and serve on a poivrade sauce (No. 522) with essence of truffle (No. 895) added. (2247), OREPINE OF REEDBIRDS (Orepine de Mauviettes). Take one dozen well cleaned and boned reedbirds, remove the breasts and put the leg meats and intestines into a sautoir, fry them in butter with some truffle parings and let get cold; season with salt and pepper, pound to a pulp and press through a sieve; mix in with this as much game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), and later add an equal quantity of fine herbs. Pare the breasts, remove the skin without extracting the minion fillets, season and cover both sides with a part MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 685 of tho forcemeat. Have some fresh and well soaked i; crepine " or caul fat; remove the fattest parts with a knife and wrap the breasts in, dip them once in butter, then in bread-crumbs, smoothing this nicely with the blade of a knife, fry in clarified butter, drain and dress in a circle with a bread crouton between each of the breasts. Fry some chopped mushroom, shallot and parsley, moisten with a little white wine and good stock; reduce the stock, add to it a little meat glaze (No. 402) and parsley and finish with a piece of fresh butter; cover the crepines with this and serve at once. (2248). OEEPINE AND SAUSAGES OF VENISON (Crepine et Saucisses de Ohevreuil). Crepine. Take a pound of venison minion fillets, suppress all the sinews and cut it up into medium quarter-inch squares, place these in a vessel with half as many raw truffles cut in three- sixteenths inch squares, and season with salt and spices, pour a little Madeira over and marinate for one hour. Mix in with some prepared pork farce (No. 68), three ounces of foies-gras braised and cut m three-sixteenths inch squares; after it is cold, pound the parings with a few truffle par- ings and put the whole together, season highly and divide the preparation into even parts each the size of an egg and shape them into flat ovals, wrap up in fresh pork " crepine " or caul fat, brush over with butter, dip in bread-crumbs and broil on a moderate fire for fifteen minutes while turning over; range them on a dish, pouring a little reduced gravy (No. 404) in the bottom, or add some Westphalian sauce (No. 561) to this. Sausages. Chop up three pounds of lean and sinewless venison with the same weight of fresh pork, a coffeespoonful of fine spices or else powdered sage, two coffeespoonfuls of pepper, three of salt, and three gills of water; when the whole is well chopped fill some mutton casings so as to form sausages five to six inches long; prick them and broil. (2249). CEEPINE OF YOUNG BABBITS (Orepine de Lapereanx). Remove all the meats from two raw young rabbits after they have been properly cleaned; sup- press all the skin and sinews and chop up finely, then mix in an equal quantity of chopped fresh pork and season highly. Chop all this once more together, adding one-sixth of the same quantity of cooked fine herbs (No. 385) such as onions, shallots, mushrooms, truffles and parsley. Lay thia hash on a large piece of " crepine" or caul fat and roll it up oval shape, flatten to half an inch in thickness, butter over with a brush and place it in a deep, narrow, but long baking pan; cook for thirty or forty minutes in a slack oven while basting occasionally. Drain and dress on a dish, serving at the same time a sauce-boatful of good gravy reduced with game glaze (No. 398). (2250). CEOUSTADES OF CHICKEN LIVEES WITH MADEIEA (Croustades de Foies de Volaille au Madere). Prepare some croustades in channeled molds, buttered while cold and lined with fine foundation paste (No. 135), fill them up with buttered paper and rice, over this a round of buttered paper, cover and fasten on a flat of the same paste; pinch the edges and lay on the center a puff paste cover made in three layers an eighth of an inch thick and two inches in diameter for the lower one, an inch and a half for the second and an inch for the upper one; egg over and bake in a hot oven, take off the lid and empty out the insides. Fry some chicken livers in a sautoir over a brisk fire, drain off the fat and moisten with a little Madeira or Marsala wine, adding some small cooked mushroom heads and half -glaze sauce (No. 413). Fill the croustades with these livers and mushrooms, sauce over, replace the covers and serve. (2251). OEOUSTADES OF LAMB SWEETBEEADS-SMALL (Fetites Croustades de Eis d'Agneau), Keep warm eight to ten small channeled croustades made of astruc, each to be provided with FIG 419. a channeled and pointed cover. Cut into dice some recently glazed lamb's sweetbreads: put this salpicon into a small saucepan with half the quantity of cooked truffles cut the same as the sweet- 686 TTIE EPICUREAN. breads. Put a few spoonfuls of good bechamel (No. 409) on to reduce, incorporating in the truffle broth and a little melted meat glaze (No. 402); when succulent and thick mix it with the sal- picon, then remove it at once from the fire and fill up the small croustades, smoothing the prepa- ration to a dome; leave to cool, cover with a thin layer of raw forcemeat (No. 89), bestrew with parmesan and bread-crumbs, pour melted butter over and warm slightly in a slow oven. (2252), OKOUSTADES OF EEEDBIRDS (Croustades de Mauviettes), Cut ten to twelve crusts of bread; slit them all around and simply brown the surfaces in a sautoir with clarified butter to open and empty them out. Bone ten to twelve fine reedbirds, season and fill them with a little baking forcemeat (No. 81), besprinkled with chopped truffles; lay a piece of foies-gras in the center, and return them to their original shape; run a thin skewer through the legs. After the crusts have been emptied and are nearly cold, cover them over quickly With a thin layer of the same forcemeat, and in the hollow space in each lay one of the birds, sink- ing it down in such a way that it will not be deformed while cooking. Butter them over with a brush, season and cover with a thin slice of fat pork. Place the crusts on a buttered baking sheet, and this on a thick baking-pan so that the heat reaches the top more than the bot- tom. Cook the birds for twelve to fifteen minutes in a slack oven, and after removing them cover over with a good, reduced, thick and cold brown sauce (No. 414); let them attain a gloss at the oven door, then dress the crusts on a folded napkin. (2253), OROUSTADES OP THEUSHES (Oroustades de Grives), Bone five or six thrushes, leaving on the thighs and two-thirds of the stumps; season them on the opened side and fill with baking forcemeat (No. 81), mingled with a spoonful of plain, raw pork forcemeat (No. 73); bestrew this dressing with a pinch of chopped truffles, and lay in the center a small slice of cooked foies-gras or half a good pullet's liver, seasoned and partly cooked with melted fat pork. Reconstruct the birds to their original shape, but do not sew them, only uphold the legs with a slender wooden skewer; cover over with a small band of buttered paper, and range them in a narrow sautoir lined with fat pork, moistening to half their height with good unskimmed fat. Boil for two minutes, salt over, and remove the sautoir on one side, keeping them for ten to twelve minutes without boiling. These thrushes should merely poach; leave them till partly cold in their liquid, then drain off to pare. Cut six hollow crusts (Fig. 42), slit them around, and fry lightly in butter, then empty out the centers and cover the hollow with a layer of forcemeat. In the middle of each of these crusts lay one thrush, cover over with a very thin slice of fat pork, and place these on a small, lightly buttered baking sheet and put this one inside another, so as not to have the crusts brown too rapidly. Cook the thrushes in a slack oven for ten to twelve minutes, and as soon as they are nicely done remove and cover them at once with a thin coating of brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with game fumet (No. 397) and Madeira. Glaze the surface of the sauce to let it acquire a brilliancy and luster, then dress and serve. (2254), CUPOLA OP OODPISH A LA BISOAYAN (Ooupole de Morue a la Biscayenne), Butter a cupola-shaped mold, coat the inside with a layer of butter and dust over with white bread- crumbs, then pour into the mold three well-beaten eggs, shuffle them around so they moisten the entire surface, drain off the surplus egg and bread-crumb the mold once more; with this double breading it will be found easy to cover the mold with a layer of rice prepared as follows: Cook half a pound of rice with just sufficient fish stock (No. 195) to cover, and when dry finish it with butter and grated parmesan; beat it up vigorously and lay it aside to get cold, then use it to spread half an inch thick over the entire interior surface of the mold. Soak two inch-square pieces of salt codfish for eighteen hours, changing the water three times in the meanwhile. Fry four ounces of onions cut into three-sixteenths inch dice in two gills of oil, add to this four crushed and chopped cloves cf garlic, a pint of thick tomato puree (No. 730), a pint of broth (No. 194a) and six ounces of capers; cook the codfish in this preparation, and when done and the stock quite con- sistent let it become cold, afterward using it to fill the cupola, finishing the top with another layer of the rice. Place the mold on a small baking sheet for half an hour in the oven, then detach the rice with the blade of a knife and invert it on a hot dish; surround the cupola with swe^t peppers sauted in oil and bestrew the whole with chopped parsley. MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 687 (2255). OUTLETS OF TENDERLOIN OP BEEF A LA BABANINE (Ootelettes de Filet de Bceuf b la Babanine). Cut up in squares a pound of raw tenderloin of beef, well-trimmed and free of all fat and sinews, then chop it up very fine. Chop separately a quarter of a pound of beef-marrow, then chop the two together. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; mix in slowly half a pint of cream while continuing to chop; roll out and flatten a small ball of this hash, place it in the oven to try its consistency, if the preparation be too firm add a little more cream, if too soft a few raw egg- yolks. Divide the preparation into eight equal parts, roll each one separately on a table dredged with rice flour, shape them like cutlets, arrange them on a buttered pan, pour over a little melted butter, and cook in a quick oven for six or eight minutes. Serve separately a Lithuanian sauce (No. 487). (2256). OUTLETS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BIENVILLE (Ootelettes de Filet de Bceuf & la Bienville). Cold roast or braised tenderloin of beef is used to make these cutlets; trim one pound of beef free from fat or sinews; cut it into three-sixteenths of an inch squares, and the same quantity of cooked mushrooms cut the same size. Keduce some brown Madeira sauce (No. 492) in a saucepan, add to it some raw egg-yolks, and a little good butter, then mix in the beef fillet, also the mush- rooms. Heat the preparation well, and when boiling pour it in a dish to let it become perfectly cold, then divide it into twelve equal parts. Roll them out on a table dredged with grated bread-crumbs; shape them in form of cutlets, dip them in beaten egg and then roll them in bread-crumbs; flatten the tops with the blade of a knife, so as to make them smooth and equal-sized, then fry them in very hot fat until they have assumed a good color, and serve them with well- buttered gourmets sauce (No. 472). (2257). CHICKEN OUTLETS A LA ADOLPHE HARDY (Ootelettes de Poulet a la Adolphe Hardy) Chop up finely one pound of raw chicken fillets after suppressing all the sinews and fat; add half the same quantity of fresh butter, season and mix the whole well together. Divide the preparation into two inch in diameter balls and shape them like a cutlet; dip in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs and fry in clarified butter; drain and decorate with favor frills (No. 10). Kange them in a circle, filling the center with a garnishing of minced cepes fried in butter, drained and moistened with cream reduced with the cepes, season and just when ready to serve finish with a piece of butter, lemon juice and chives minced very fine. Fio~420. (2258). CHICKEN CUTLETS A LA CLARENCE (Ootelettes de Poulet a la Clarence). Fry lightly in butter and lemon juice six well-pared chicken fillets cut into half hearts; place them under a weight to press lightly and divide each one into halves through the thickest part and trim neatly again. Bone the legs, suppress the nerves and fat and fry them in butter, then allow to cool; pound these with the same quantity of foies-gras from a terrine, adding about six egg- yolks and proper seasoning; pass this through a sieve and then mix in four tablespoonfuls of chopped truffles, a little melted glaze (No. 402) and a dash of cayenne and nutmeg. With this preparation cover both surfaces of each fillet, range them on a lightly buttered baking sheet and let get cold on ice; detach them from the sheet, heating it underneath, then roll each separate one in bread-crumbs, dip in beaten egg, roll once more in the crumbs, and smooth the breading with the blade of a knife. Plunge a few chops at a time into hot frying fat to brown nicely, then drain and insert a small favor frill (No. 10). Dress them in a circle on a forcemeat ring poached in a plain border mold (Fig. 139), hollowed on the top; in the center of the ring range minced fresh mushrooms thickened with well-reduced bechamel sauce (No. 409). (2259). GROUSE OR PRAIRIE HEN OUTLETS A LA SE'GARD (Ootelettes de Terras ou de Poulet de Prairie a la Se'gard), Braise the fillets from the breast of a grouse, remove the skin and nerves and chop up finely; add six ounces of butter, season with fine spices and mix in three tablespoonfuls of game cream forcemeat (No. 75); with this preparation shape some cutlets, dip them in beaten egg and bread- crumbs and fry in clarified butter over a good fire. Serve separately, but at the same time a toma- to sauce (No. 549) mixed with half-glaze sauce (No. 413). 688 THE EPICUREAN. (2260), OUTLETS OP KINGFISH, MAYONNAISE MOUSSELINE (Ootelettes de Kingfish, Mayonnaise Mousseline). Make a very delicate fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90); mold this into cutlet-shaped molds, and poach until sufficiently consistent to be able to egg and bread-crumb; fry in clarified butter, and when a fine color dress on napkins. Garnish the ends with paper favor frills (No. 10) and serve with a mayonnaise mousseline sauce (No. 615) separately. (2261). LOBSTEE OUTLETS A LA SHELLEY, OR WITH OEEAM SAUOE (Ootelettes de Bernard a la Shelley, ou a la Sauce a la Creme). Cook in a court bouillon (No. 38) one lobster of two and a half pounds, take out all the meat, cut one pound of this into three-sixteenths inch squares, add to it half a pound of cooked mush- rooms cut the same as the lobster, and mix this salpicon with a veloute sauce (No. 415), reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392), and into which has been added a little meat glaze (No. 402); season, stir well over the fire, and when the preparation reaches boiling point, pour it into a vessel to get cold. Have a bottomless cutlet mold five-eighths of an inch high by three and three- quarters inches long and two inches wide; butter and lay it on a piece of buttered paper slightly larger than the mold, garnish the bottom and sides with a light layer of pike forcemeat (No. 90), set the salpicon in the center and cover with more forcemeat; poach this lightly, unmold and set it aside till cold, then dip it in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs; fry in clarified butter, drain and serve on napkins with favor frills (No. 10) and a separate lobster sauce (No. 488) containing chopped truffles. With Cream Sauce. Have a lobster croquette preparation (No. 880), mold it to the shape of a cutlet, bread-crumb and fry the sauce as for the above; when a fine color, dress the cutlets and garnish with favor frills (No. 10), serving them tvith a separate cream sauce (No. 454). (2262). OUTLETS OP PHEASANT A LA REGINALD (Ootelettes de Faisan a la Reginald). Cut up a pound of the white meat of a cooked pheasant free of fat and skin into three-sixteenths inch squares, also four ounces of truffles; mingle these with reduced bechamel (No. 409) and meat glaze (No. 402), season properly and let get cold. Divide the preparation into one and three- quarters inch in diameter balls, roll and lengthen them on one end in the shape of a cutlet and lay them in bread-crumbs; then dip in beaten eggs and again in the bread-crumbs, flatten them down to half an inch in thickness and mold them into cutlet-shaped bottomless molds; unmold and fry in very hot white fat or clarified butter, drain and trim with fancy favor frills (No. 10). Dress either in a circle or in a straight row. and serve at the same time a well buttered veloute sauce (No. 415), into which squeeze the juice of a lemon; strain it through a tammy and then add chopped parsley and small three-sixteenths of an inch pieces of cooked mushrooms and red beef tongue. (2263). OUTLETS OF SQUABS A L'ALBUFERA (Ootelettes de Pigeonneaux a l'Albuf6ra). To be prepared the same as the signora (No. 2269); replace the slice of truffle by a braised cock's- comb, having it fall to a glaze in Madeira and half-glaze (No. 400). Serve separately a poivrade sauce (No. 522) with truffles. (2264). OUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA JARDINIERE (Cotelettes de Pigeonneaux a la Jardiniere). Thrust the legs inside as many young pigeons as needed, and split them in two lengthwise, flatten, then trim each half cutlet-shaped, the leg bone to take the place of the handle, season and roll in butter after breading them over, broil and dress on a jardiniere garnishing (No. 677), decorating the leg with a paper frill (No. 10); serve. (2265). OUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA LAURISTON (Ootelettes de Pigeonneaux a la Lauriston). Truss the legs inside of six prepared squabs; split them in two lengthwise, beat down to flatten, season and pare into cutlet shapes. Lay them in a saute"-pan with butter, shallots, mushrooms and truffles, all finely chopped, and cut up chives; cook together for half an hour without browning, then drain off the butter and place the cutlets under the pressure of a weight; let the herbs get quite cold, then mix them with some chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and with this prepara- tion cover each inner side of half a squab; dip them in beaten eggs and roll them in bread-crumbs, smooth well the breading and fry in clarified butter. Dress the birds in a circle, garnish the handle with a frill (No. 10) and fill the inside with a puree of green peas (No. 2742). Serve a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Marsala wine separately, adding to it a dash of cayenne pepper. MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 689 (2266). CUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA DE LUYNES (Ootelettes de Pigeonneaux a la de Luynes), Prepare the cutlets the same as for the Lauriston, only replace the forcemeat by a well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407) with leinon juice added. Cover the cutlets with this and when cold dip them in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs, and fry in clarified butter; dish up and fill the hollow of the circle with asparagus tops. Serve separately a well-buttered half -glaze sauce (No. 413) into which mingle lemon juice and chopped parsley. (2267). OUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA PERIGUEUX (Ootelettes de Pigeonneaux a la P&igueux), After dressing the pigeons as for jardiniere (No. 2264), pour over a Perigueux sauce (No. 517), to which add a garnishing of small chicken quenelles, laid through a cornet on to a buttered 4 baking sheet into bead shapes a quarter of an inch in diameter, then poached in boiling water and drained. (2268). OUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA PROVENQ AL (Ootelettes de Pigeonneanx a la Provengale). Prepared the same as the jardiniere (No. 2264), then fried in oil with minced onion, and a clove of garlic; drain off the oil and replace it by white wine, espagnole sauce (No. 414) and tomatoes. Cover the saucepan and finish to cook; just when ready to serve, add minced mush- rooms and chopped parsley. (2269). OUTLETS OF SQUABS A LA SIGNORA (Ootelettes de Pigeonneaux a la Signora), Have some well-cleaned and singed young pigeons; make an incision down the entire length of the backs and bone them by beginning at this incision and following the line of the carcass on both sides, then take out all the bones leaving a drumstick on the same side of each pigeon; season. Mix well together some chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), with as much cooked forcemeat (No. 73); spread out a layer of it on the inside of the squab, and in the center on the back place a fine slice of peeled truffle, having it three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; cover this over with another layer of the forcemeat, and wrap this in the boned pigeon, shaping it like a cutlet; dip in melted butter, then in bread-crumbs. Butter a baking sheet, and range either buttered molds or rings shaped like cutlets on top, set the pigeons in these, sprinkle butter over, then place them in a moderate oven, and let cook for twenty minutes. Remove the sheet from the fire, drain off the pigeons and decorate the legs with paper frills (No. 10); dress them in a circle, and serve separately a queen sauce (No. 530). (2270). OUTLETS OF SQUABS IN PAPERS (Ootelettes de Pigeonneaux en Papillotes), Draw, singe and clean nicely some young pigeons, cut an incision in the skin between the rump and the breast; thrust the legs inside, split the pigeons in two lengthwise and pare them to resemble cutlets, then fry lightly in butter with lemon juice without letting acquire a color; set them under a weight and trim them again into the required shape. Place some oil, grated fat pork, chopped shallot, mushrooms, parsley, salt, allspice and eighth-inch squares of ham into a sautoir; when these ingredients are well fried, but not browned, add some half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and Madeira wine. Coat some heart-shaped sheets of paper with oil, on one of the halves lay a thin slice of fat pork, over this some of the above prepared sauce and then a pigeon cutlet on top, finishing with more of the sauce and a thin slice of cooked ham; fold the empty half of paper over on the full one, pinch the edges well together to enfold all and enclose hermetically, then lay them on a well-buttered dish intended for the table; set it in the oven to brown the paper and heat the cutlet. The paper should swell up; serve as soon as done. (2271). SWEETBREAD OUTLETS, MODERN STYLE (Ootelettes de Ris de Veau a la Moderne), Cut one pound of sweetbreads into slices; season and cook with some butter in a sautoir, turn- ing them over when done on one side; drain, let get cold under a weight, then cut up into small quarter-inch dice pieces; lay them in a tureen with half a pound of cooked mushrooms cut the same size, and a quarter of a pound of unsmoked beef tongue cut in three-sixteenths inch dice; mix this salpicon with some allemande sauce (No. 407), bring to a boil, stir well with a reducing spatula and set it away to cool in a dish; when cold shape it into cutlets, dip them in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs and fry; then dress in a circle, garnish with favor frills (No. 10) and pour a financiere sauce (No. 464) into the bottom of the dish. 6 90 THE EPICUREAN. (2272). SWEETBREAD OUTLETS A LA TALLEYRAND (Ootelettes de Eis de Veau a la Talleyrand). Braise some unlarded sweetbreads and set under a weight to get cold; cut one pound of these into quarter-inch dice-shaped pieces with the same quantity of artichoke bottoms, and mushrooms cut the same, and four ounces of truffles cut in three-sixteenths inch dice and mingled with a bechamel sauce (No. 409) thickened with egg-yolks and fine butter. After this preparation is cold divide it into equal parts and shape them as cutlets; dip in egg and bread-crumbs, fry to a fine color; dress in a circle, garnish with favor frills (No. 10), pouring a cream of soubise sauce (No. 548) in the center. (2273). VEAL OUTLETS, POGARSKI (Ootelettes de Veau Pogarski). Chop up one pound of fillet of veal free of all sinews, mix it in with ten ounces of butter, tw. (2374). LOBSTER TART OR PIE A LA A. HERAULT (Tarte de Homard a la A. Herault). Boil two two-pound lobsters in a court-bouillon (No. 38); drain, and let get cold; detach the tails and claws; remove all the creamy parts and rub them through a fine sieve, then pick the meat from the tails and claws, and cut them into slices. Partly fry two ounces of shallot cut into one- eighth of an inch squares, with two ounces of butter; when partially fried add half a pound of chopped fresh mushrooms, and let fry together; pour in a quart of allemande sauce (No. 407), season with salt, nutmeg and cayenne, also chopped parsley, and mix well, adding the creamy parts and the pieces of lobster; transfer all this into a deep pie dish (Fig. 183), and set on the edge, slightly dampened, a narrow puff paste (No. 146) band, and over all a layer of puff paste fragments; cut it away evenly all around the outer edge, and decorate the top with leaves made of paste; pinch the edges around the pie, and egg over the surface twice, then cook it for twenty to thirty minutes in a hot oven, and serve as soon as it is done. (2375). LEG OF MUTTON TART OR PIE, CANADIAN (Tarte de Gigot de Mouton a la Cana- dienne). Butter the interior of a pie dish (Fig. 183); range on the bottom some blanched salt pork and slices of mutton from the leg; on top lay a bed of potatoes, baked in the oven, peeled and cut in slices; season each layer with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley, and chopped onions fried in butter, and pour a little good clear gravy (No. 404) over. Wet the edges of the dish, lay on a narrow band of paste, moisten and cover the whole with a flat of puff paste fragments, decorating the top with devices of the same paste, egg it over twice, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour and a quarter. (2376). OYSTER TART OR PIE, SMITH STYLE (Tarte aux Huitres k la Smith), Poach in their own liquor three dozen medium oysters, drain and remove the muscles or liga- ments. Fry in two ounces of butter, four ounces of bacon cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, two ounces of onions cut the same size, and half a pound of peeled and seedless tomatoes cut into 714 THE EPICUREAN. five-eighths of an inch pieces; add the oyster liquor, reduce the whole with a pint of veloute sauce (No. 415), and when well done and seasoned nicely, add the oysters. Place all of this into a deep pie dish (Fig. 183), and lay on the edge, after slightly wetting it, a narrow band of puff paste (No. 146) an eighth of an inch thick and half an inch wide; moisten the top of this band, and cover the whole with a layer of paste made of fragments of puff paste; cut away the extending edges, and decorate the top with bits of the paste rolled out to one-eighth of an inch in thickness; pinch the edges round the border, and egg over the surface twice, then cook the pie in a hot oven for twenty to thirty minutes, and serve on a folded napkin. Either salt or smoked bacon can be used. (2377). PIGEON TAET A LA BEITANNIA (Tarte de Pigeons a la Britannia). Singe three clean pigeons; divide each one in two parts, beat, remove the surplus bones with- out boning them, then season with salt, pepper, and cayenne pepper. Cover the bottom of a pie dish (Fig. 183) with thin slices of bacon, bestrew with a spoonful of onion, and one of mushrooms both chopped separately, range the halved pigeons in the dish intermingled with more slices of bacon, and a few hard-boiled eggs cut in two; bring it to a dome. Pour a few spoonfuls of good clear gravy (No. 404) into the bottom of the dish; cover with a layer of half paste the same as for the beef pie No. 2369. Decorate the summit, egg over, and cook for an hour and a quarter in a slack oven, covering with paper should it threaten to burn. (2378). LOIN OF POKE TAET OE PIE-ENGLISH STYLE (Tarte de Longe de Pore a 1'Anglaise). Have a loin of fresh pork, bone, remove the fat and cut from it slices three-eighths of an inch thick; beat to flatten slightly, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Butter the inside of a pie dish (Fig. 183) and lay over some thin slices of raw salted and smoked ham, seasoning with prepared red pepper (No. 168), chopped shallot and onions; on this place a bed of raw sliced potatoes, and the pieces of meat above, dropping sage leaves here and there; pour a little good cold gravy (No. 404) into the bottom of the dish; moisten the edge with a brush dipped in water, lay on it a band of paste an eighth of an inch thick and half an inch wide; wet the top of this slightly and cover the pie with a layer of foundation paste (No. 135) or puff paste parings, having it an eighth of an inch in thickness; adhere this on the band, cut away all the surplus paste from the outside and make deep marks all around with the back of a knife; egg the surface twice and cut a hole in the center. Cook this pie in a moderate oven for an hour and a quarter more or less, according to its size; this time being allowed for one containing a pound and a quarter of meat and potatoes. (2379). EABBIT TAET OE PIE WITH TINE HEEBS (Tarte de Lapin aux Fines Herbes). Suppress the skin from two good rabbits; draw and wipe well the meats; separate them at the joints, bone the shoulders and the legs, decrease the size of the backbones without boning then entirely and split each one in two. With the necks, bones and a few game parings, make a small fumet (No. 397) with white wine. Cut half a pound of bacon into small slices; put them in a sautoir with butter, and heat for five minutes while stirring, then remove with a skimmer, leaving the fat in the pan, and into this throw two spoonfuls each of onions, shallots and mush- rooms; fry together for two minutes, then add the pieces of rabbit; season highly, being sparing of the salt, and besprinkle with pulverized wild thyme. Cover the bottom of a pie dish (Fig. 183) intended for the oven with a layer of the bacon; on this place the pieces of rabbit, intermingling them with the fine herbs and bacon; pour into the bottom a few spoonfuls of the prepared fumet reduced to nearly half-glaze. Wet the edges of the dish, cover it with a thin band of puff paste fragments (No. 146) or fine foundation paste (No. 135); wet this band also. Cover the whole with a flat of puff paste parings, cut off the surplus around the edge of the dish, egg over twice and cook for an hour and a quarter in a slow oven; make a hole on the top and pour in the remainder of the fumet. (2380). VEAL TAET OE PIE A LA DICKINSON (Tarte de Veau a la Dickinson). Suppress all the fat and sinews from a kernel of veal; cut it up into thin slices, having them an inch and a half in diameter. Butter a pie dish (Fig. 183) that can go into the oven; set slices of bacon and ham on the bottom, and over these the sliced veal, alternated; season with salt, pepper and pars- ley; add finely cut-up potatoes, chopped shallots or onions, then continue to fill with the same until MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 715 the dish is quite full and well rounded on top; pour some clear gravy (No. 404) into the bottom, lay a small band made of puff paste parings on the edge of the dish, and a flat of the same paste on top; cut away the surplus paste around the dish, decorate and egg the pie over twice; bake it in a medium oven for one hour and a half for a dish containing a quart. (2381X TIMBALE A LA NANTAISE (Timbale a la Nantaise). Line a tiinbale mold the same as for No. 2383, cook it lightly, and when removed from the oven, unmold, open on the cut end, empty it of its contents, and keep warm. Prepare a garnish- ing composed of a few dozen poached oysters or else crawfish tails or red shrimps (either of them shelled), or slices of cooked lobster-tail meat, four ounces of peeled truffles previously cooked in FIG. 441. Madeira wine, and a few dozen small salmon quenelles rolled on a floured table and poached. Range these garnishings in a sautoir and keep them well covered. Put on to reduce a few gills of good bechamel (No. 409), stir slowly into it the oyster broth, also a few spoonfuls of good court- bouillon (No. 38) reduced to a half-glaze; finish the sauce with a pinch of cayenne pepper and lobster butter (No. 580) and a handful of grated parmesan. Cover the garnishings with this sauce, set them in layers in the timbale, alternating with the remainder of the sauce; close the top with the removed lid anderve at once. (2382). TIMBALE OF CHICKEN, PAKISTAN STYLE-LARGE (Grosse Timbale de Poulet a la Parisienne). Butter a cold oval timbale mold, decorate with fanciful cuts of truffles and cover this decora- tion with a layer of consistent chicken quenelle forcemeat, having it half an inch deep at the base and diminishing the thickness toward the top. Fill the inside of the timbale with a well-pared boneless chicken fricassee (No. 1861), into which mix a Toulouse garnishing (No. 766), having both thoroughly cold. Cover the top with a layer of forcemeat and place the mold in a saucepan containing boiling water, withdraw it to one side at the first boil and finish cooking the riG timbale in a slack oven. Let it rest for fifteen minutes after removal, then unmold and pour around a little veloute sauce (No. 415) with essence of truffles (No. 396); serve more of this sauce separately. (2383). TIMBALE FOR EPICURES (Timbale des Epicures). Butter a large timbale mold (Fig. 441) slightly wider on top than on the bottom; cover the bottom with a piece of paper and line with rather thick timbale paste (No. 150). With the tip of a small knife cut all round the bottom paste (Fig. 441), following the outlines of the sides in a way not to decrease the thickness; leave the cut piece of paste in its same position, then cover the bottom and sides with but- tered paper and fill the timbale with common flour; close the opening firstly with a round of paper, then with a flat of the same paste; stand it on a small baking sheet and cook for three-quarters of an hour in a slack oven. After removing it from the fire, allow to cool for a few moments, then invert it on a baking sheet to open on the cut side, and empty out the contents; take off the paper and keep the timbale for five minutes at the oven door, glaze it with a brush and fasten it on to the center of a dish, then with a cornet filled with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75) form a garland all around the upper edge; leave the timbale in a warm heater to poach this border slightly. Place in a saucepan a garnishing composed of fine cocks'-combs, round truffles and very white and uniform mushroom heads; baste with two or three spoonfuls of good chicken stock (No. 188), cover the saucepan and 716 TFLE; EPICUREAN. keep it in a bain-marie. In another saucepan place a garnishing of cooked beef fries cut in inch and a half length slices; mix with these an equal quantity of large Italian macaroni, cooked till tender and cut into the same lengths as the fries; add also the same quantity of large fillets of cooked tongue cut likewise, and mingle these ingredients with some good bechamel (No. 409) reduced with FIG. 443. the mushroom broth, raw cream and melted meat glaze (No. 402). Heat the stew on a slow fire, stir- ring it unceasingly and not allowing the sauce to boil and incorporate into it a piece of fresh butter and a handful of parmesan. Now take the timbale from the heater, fill it up with the stew and on top dress the garnishing of the truffles, combs and mushrooms laid in the shape of a dome; cover these with two or three spoonfuls of good light veloute sauce (No. 415), and serve the timbale at once. (2384). TIMBALE 01 FILLETS OF SOLES A LA GAULOISE (Timbale de Filets de Soles & la Gauloise). Fill the timbale paste, prepare and cook a case as explained in No. 2383. After the case is taken from the oven open it on the cut to empty. Glaze the inside with a brush, and dress it on a dish; keep it warm in a heater. Poach the fillets of sole in butter, salt and lemon juice; set them under a light weight, pare and keep them warm likewise. Add to a well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407) some minced truffles and mushroom heads; fill the timbale with a layer of sole on top of the truffles and mushrooms, then more sole, and continue the operation until the timbale is entirely filled. Garnish around with Milanese macaroni croquettes, and the top with trussed crawfish. Milanese Macaroni Croquettes are to be made with cooked macaroni cut into half-inch lengths and mingled with allemande sauce (No. 407), adding a salpicon of tongue, truffles and mushrooms; when cold dip in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs and fry in hot frying fat. (2385). TIMBALE OF LOBSTER A LA D'AUMALE (Timbale de Homard k la d'Aumale). After a lobster has been cooked in a court-bouillon (No. 38), drain, and lay it aside to get cold; then pick out the meat and cut it up into escalops, not having them too thick about a pound alto- gether; add to these slices two medium-sized blanched oysters after suppressing the hard parts; add also half a pound of mushrooms and four ounces of truffles. Butter with unmelted butter a half spherical, plain, round or oval mold; decorate it with fanciful cuts of truffles, and keep the decoration in place with a thick pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) mixed with lobster coral; fill up the inside with the above preparation, and finish with more forcemeat. Poach it in a slack oven for three-quarters to one hour; unmold, and serve separately a bechamel sauce (No. 409), with lobster butter (No. 680) added to it. (2386). TIMBALE OF PULLET (Timbale de Poularde). Cut each of two pullets into five pieces, and five ounces of bacon into thin squares; warm these in a saucepan with some butter, then add the pieces of chicken, and fry them while tossing; season, put in the livers and three or four peeled and sliced truffles. When the chickens are partly done moisten them with a little white wine and reduce quickly; then pour the stew into a tureen. Butter a timbale mold, bestrew chopped noodles over the sides and bottom, and then line it with fine paste (No. 142); cover the sides and bottoms with veal chopped force- meat (No. 65), finished with a few cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Pour the stew into the timbale, leaving as little empty space as possible, and covering over with a flat of the same paste; fasten MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 717 this to the edge, and egg over the whole, then push the timbale into a moderate oven to cook for one hour. After removing it cut a small opening in the middle of the crust, and pour in a few spoonfuls of good half-glaze sauce (No. 413); close the opening and invert the timbale on a dish to serve. (2387). TIMBALE OP SQUAES A LA BEROHOUX (Timbale de Pigeonneaux a la Berchoux). Draw, singe and clean six squabs, then cut them each in four. Line a two-quart buttered tim- bale mold with foundation or short paste (No. 135); coat it over with a layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness. Melt four ounces of grated fat pork in a saucepan with as much lean bacon cut into quarter-inch squares; add the squabs, and fry the whole together over a bright fire. When the squabs are nicely browned, drain off the fat and moisten with a quarter of a bottle of white wine, then reduce, add some espagnole sauce (No. 414), and season to taste, adding half a pound of small mushroom heads, and four ounces of minced truffles, then let the whole get cold. Fill up the timbale with separate layers of squabs, mush- rooms, bacon, and sauce, and cover over with more quenelle forcemeat, and besides this a lid of puff oaste (No. 146); cook in a moderate oven, and when the timbale is done, remove it from the fire, dress, take off the lid, and pour in some espagnole sauce (No. 414) with Madeira; serve the timbale very hot. Instead of cutting the squabs in two, they may be boned and stuffed with delicate chicken quenelle forcemeat, then laid in oval-shaped rings and braised, finishing them as for the others. (2388), TIMBALE OF SWEETBREADS, MODEM-LARGE (Grosse Timbale de Ris de Veau a la Moderne). Butter a large oval mold as for timbale a la Parisian (No. 2382), allowing one quart for eight persons; decorate the bottom and sides with fanciful cuts of truffles, and hold these up with a thick layer ot solid chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89.) Cut up in half-inch squares one pound of braised, unlarded sweetbreads that have been left to cool in their stock, also as much cooked lean ham. Put four ounces of butter into a sautoir with two ounces of onion cut in small one-eighth of an inch squares, and when done without browning add four ounces of minced fresh mushrooms; when these have evaporated their moisture add the sweet- breads and ham; season and moisten with two gills of Madeira; let the latter reduce entirely, then pour in some brown sauce (No. 414) and the sweetbread braise stock; reduce once more and transfer the whole to a dish to get cold. Fill the timbale mold with this preparation; spread a half inch thick layer of forcemeat on a sheet of buttered paper, having it the same size as the timbale, turn over the sheet to fasten the forcemeat to the forcemeat in the timbale; attach it well to the top; poach the timbale by placing it in boiling water that reaches halfway up; boil this and push the timbale into a slack oven for an hour and a quarter to an hour and a half, or until the forcemeat be perfectly firm; remove the paper, unmold on a dish and pour around a Madeira sauce (No. 492), serving more of it in a sauce-boat. (2389). TIMBALE OF YOUNG HARE (Timbale de Levraut), Bone a young hare, cut it up into sixteen pieces, and put these into a saucepan with melted fat pork, two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions and half a pound of bacon cut in half-inch squares and blanched. Fry these meats over a good fire, season with salt and spices, and when well stiff- ened throw in a pound of medium-sized mushrooms turned and channeled (No. 118), also a glass- ful of white wine; cover the saucepan, reduce the liquid quickly and leave till cold. Butter a plain timbale mold six inches in diameter by six inches high, strew the bottom with a handful of freshly and finely cut-up noodle paste (No. 142), or else pretty pieces cut out with a column tube; apply them all over the inside surface, wetting lightly with water, then line the mold with foundation paste (No. 135), having it rolled out very thin; now cover the bottom and sides with a thin layer of chopped game forcemeat (No. 67). Fill the timbale with the hare and some game quenelles (No. 733) intermingled; cover with a layer of the same forcemeat and over this a round flat of the paste, attaching it to the lower one at the edge. Place the timbale on a small baking sheet and push it into a moderate oven to cook for one hour and a quarter; after removing from the oven, invert it on a dish, make a hole in the center and pour into the inside a brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with Madeira and game fumet (No. 397) made with the hare parings and the mushroom peelings, then strained through a tammy. 718 THE EPICUREAN. (2390). TOURTE OF PALATE OP BEEF, PAEISIAN STYLE (Tourte de Palais de Boeuf a la Parisienne). Prepare, cook and press the palates of beef as described in a la bechamel (No. 1326), then cut them in one and a half inch squares. Heat half a pound of lard, brown in it two ounces of finely chopped onions, and half a pound of chopped mushrooms; add the palates, season with salt, pepper, chopped chives and parsley; drain off the grease, and add to it half its quantity of godiveau forcemeat (No. 82) quenelles and increase the garnishing by adding an espagnole sauce (No. 414) finished with Madeira. Prepare an empty tart, ancient style (No. 174); when the tart is done, raise up the cover, remove the paper pad, and fill the interior with the above garnishing, and replace the cover before serving. (2391). TOUKTE OF CHICKEN (Tourte de Poulet). Divide two small chickens into eight pieces each, suppressing all the bones. Melt in a sautoir three or four spoonfuls of chopped fat pork; add to it a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in large dice and fry these for four or five minutes; lift them out with a skimmer, leaving the fat in the sautoir, and into it put three spoonfuls of chopped shallot and onion; fry colorless, then add double the same quantity of chopped mushrooms, and as soon as these have evaporated their humidity, put in the chickens, a bunch of parsley and aromatic herbs; fry together and at the end of ten minutes put back the bacon, and when the meats are half cooked moisten with half a glass- ful of dry white wine; let reduce quickly to a glaze and pour over two or three spoonfuls of half-glaze sauce, then take out the meats and let get cold. Prepare about a pound of chicken godiveau (No. 82). Lay on a pie dish (Fig. 183) a rather thick layer of foundation paste (No. 135), having it eight inches in diameter; in the center spread a layer of the chicken godiveau six and a half inches in diameter; on this place the chickens, dressing them in a dome, and adding a few cooked mush- rooms; then cover the entire dome with the remainder of the godiveau; wet the lower flat at the base of the dome and cover over with a large layer of puff paste (No. 146), press it on to the lower one and fasten the two together, decreasing the thickness, then cut very round. Wet the top layer and lay on the free surface around the dome a band of puff paste made in six turns, having it three-eighths of an inch thick; fasten the two ends, cut bias together, and wet this over; decorate the dome with fanciful cuts of paste, egg it over, as well as the bands of puff paste, and cook the tart in a moderate oven for forty minutes. After taking it out slip it on to a large dish and cut off one-third of the top of the dome to open it, and pour in a few spoonfuls of half-glaze sauce (No. 413), having more in a sauce-boat, and adding to it a few cooked mushrooms. Pigeon or rabbit tarts can be prepared the same. (2392). TOURTE OF FILLETS OF SOLES A LA FINANCIERS (Tourte de Filets de Soles a la Financiere). Make a band tart the same as explained in No. 173; remove and detach it from the baking sheet, dress on a dish and keep warm. Cook five or six well-pared sole fillets in butter, having them seasoned and cut into escalops, laying them in a sautoir with sliced truffles, a few dozen poached FIG. 444. oysters and small fish quenelles (No. 90) molded with a small coffeespoon (No. 155), then poached; add some good lean veloute sauce (No. 416), reduced with the broth from the truffles, mushrooms and oysters. Dress this garnishing in a dome in the empty tart, ornament the surface with two sole fillets decorated with truffles, two large cooked crawfish, their tails shelled, and four large quenelles, each one having a truffle lozenge placed on the center. Between the quenelles and the fillets lay a MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 719 mushroom head, turned (No. 118) and cooked very white; on top place a small round scooped-out quenelle, and on this a round peeled truffle; glaze this truffle and the fillets of sole, cover the mushrooms with a little veloute sauce and serve more of it as a separate sauce. (2393). TURBAN OF FILLETS OF FLUKES OK SMELTS-STREAKED (Turban de Filets de / Oarrelets ou d'Eperlans, Bigarre~s). Raise the four fillets, peel off the skin, cut them lengthwise in two, then into slices, having them six inches long by one wide; make bias incisions on half the thickness, and set into everyone a thin slice of truffle. With a fish quenelle forcemeat (No. 90) make a crown-shaped border rounded on the top, using mold (Fig. 139); lay on it the streaked slices slanting in such a way as to cover the surfaces so that the truffles are seen on top; lay over strips of buttered paper, and cook this turban in a slack oven; drain off the butter and fill up the empty space with mushrooms, truffles and oyster kernels, cover with an allemande sauce (No. 407) reduced with cream and well buttered, and lay a garnishing of fried milts around the turban. (2394). TURBAN OF LOBSTERS GARNISHED WITH SHELLS (Turban de Homards Garni de Coquilles). Kill the lobsters by plunging them into boiling water for one minute; suppress the tail shells and cut up the tail meat into transversal slices a quarter of an inch thick, and dress them crown- shaped on a ring made of raw pike quenelle forcemeat (No. 90), alternating each slice with one of truffles and mushrooms; cover this crown with a veloute sauce (No. 416) well-reduced with court bouillon and wine (No. 419); dredge over with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan cheese, and besprinkle with butter; brown it in the oven and then garnish the center of the turban with a gar- nishing of mushrooms; pour over these a lobster sauce (No. 488) with some cayenne pepper added, and garnish around the turban with small shells filled with lobster and cream bechamel. Prepare as follows: Put into a bowl half a pound of lobster meat cut in quarter-inch squares, and the third of its quantity of cooked mushrooms cut exactly the same. Reduce a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 409) with some of the mushroom broth and cream; mix it in with the salpicon, season with nutmeg, salt and cayenne pepper, and use this preparation to fill some scallop or silver shells (Fig. 438) previously buttered and bread-crumbed; when they are all full, strew over more bread- crumbs and parmesan, besprinkle with butter, and brown them in a hot oven, or else with a red- hot shovel, or under a gas salamander (Fig. 123). (2395). VOL-AU-VENT A LA DIEPPOISE (Vol-au-vent a la Dieppoise). For this there must be prepared a vol-au-vent crust, as explained in No. 180; remove the cover to empty it out thoroughly, then keep it warm, or if it has been made some time beforehand just heat it in a slow oven for a few minutes. Reduce some lean veloute sauce (No. 416), then thicken it with egg-yolks, fresh butter and lemon juice, strain through a tammy and keep it in a bain-marie; add to it some cooked mussels, some fish (sole) quenelles, mushrooms and shrimps. When all is very hot, fill the crust, cover with the lid and serve. (2396), VOL-AU-VENT A LA FINANOIERE (Vol-au-vent a la Financiers). Prepare a vol-au-vent crust as explained in No. 180; when cooked lift off the cover, empty FIG. 445. out the interior and keep it warm. Prepare a garnishing of whole peeled truffles, turned and channeled mushroom heads (No. 118), cocks'-combs and quenelles, as many of one as of 720 THE EPICUREAN. the other, and enough to fill the crust; put this garnishing into a sautoir and mingle in a financiere sauce (No. 464). When very hot pour it into the crust, dressing the cocks'-combs in a circle, and inside of this the truffles and mushrooms, having a fine braised, larded and well-glazed sweetbread on top. The financiere garnishing can be replaced by a Toulouse (No. 766) or Aquitaine (No. 640) garnishing. (2397). VOL-AU-VENT A LA NESLE (Vol-au-vent & la Nesle), Take some well-buttered allemande sauce (No. 407) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392); add to it some chicken quenelles made of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) molded with a coffeespoon (No. 155), small turned and cooked mushrooms and cooked lean ham cut in three- eighth inch squares. When both the garnishing and crust are very hot fill up in layers alternated with slices of calf's brains cooked when ready to use and then well drained. Decorate the top with fine trussed crawfish, and serve. (2398). VOL-AU-VENT, ANCIENT STYLE-LAEGE (Gros Vol-au-vent a I'Ancienne). Reduce some veloute sauce (No. 415) with sweetbread stock, and thicken it with egg-yolks; run it through a tammy, and mix in with this sauce some godiveau quenelles (No. 155, Fig. 81), medium sized mushroom heads, cocks'-combs, slices of liver, and minced truffles. Fill the crust, as explained in a la financiere (No. 2396), with this very hot garnishing, and replace the cover by small, pretty kernels of sweetbreads and trussed crawfish. (2399). OHIOKEN VOL-AU-VENT WITH MUSHEOOMS-LAEGE (Gros Vol-au-vent de Volaille aux Champignons). Prepare the crust as for the financiere (No. 2396), reduce some veloute sauce (No. 415) with mushroom stock, and when done thicken with raw egg-yolks diluted with a little cream, then incorporate a piece of fresh butter, pass it through a tammy, and add to this sauce some braised white of chicken free of skin, sinews, or fat, and half the same quantity of mushroom heads or cut-up mushrooms. When the crust is very hot, also the garnishing, fill and lay the cover over, then serve. The chicken may be replaced by braised sweetbreads or spring lamb, either of which should be well pared and cut in slices. (2400) SALT CODFISH VOL-AU-VENT-LAEGE (Gros Vol-au-vent de Morue Salfe). Cut some salted codfish in two-inch pieces, pare them evenly, and lay in cold water to soak for twenty-four hours, changing the water every six hours; the last change must be slightly tepid. When ready to cook put it into a saucepan containing cold water; bring this slowly to a boiling point and leave for three-quarters of an hour without allowing it to actually boil; drain, take off all the skin and bones, and then shred it in flakes; put these in a saucepan with cream bechamel sauce (No. 411). With this prepared fish fill a vol-au-vent crust the same as described in No. 180, dress it on a very hot dish, and serve. It can also be prepared with eggs, adding to the fish hard-boiled eggs and finely chopped parsley and chives. (2401). VOL-AU-VENT OP FEOGS AND SOUBISE EGGS (Vol-au-vent de Grenouilles et d'ffiufs Soubise). Prepare the vol-au-vent crust as in No. 180. Fry colorless in a pan with butter some frogs' legs; drain, bone, and lay them in a saucepan. Boil some eggs for eight minutes to have them very hard; shell and cut lengthwise in two, then across in two; add them to the frogs' legs, and also some well-buttered soubise sauce (No. 543); butter it well, heat all very slowly, and then fill the vol-au-vent crust, placing the removed cover on top. (2402). VOL-AU-VENT OF OYSTEES (Vol-au-vent d'Hultres). Prepare either one large or sufficient small vol-au-vent (No. 180). Poach a few dozen large oysters in white wine and their own liquor, and when well drained, pare and lay them in a small saucepan. On the other hand, put on to reduce two gills of good be'chamel sauce (No. 409), in- corporating into it slowly apart of the oyster juice, and when the sauce is considerably reduced and thick, finish it with a little cream; pour this over the oysters, and heat them in a bain-marie (Fig. 122) without allowing them to boil; at the last moment fill the vol-au-vent with this prepared garnishing, and serve very hot. MISCELLANEOUS ENTREES. 721 (2403). VOL-AU-VENT A LA DELMONTES-SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent & la Delmontes). These small vol-au-vent are prepared the same as explained in No. 180. Prepare also a brown espagnole sauce (No. 414) with Marsala wine, into which mix equal parts of cooked unsmoked beef tongue, cut in balls three-eighths of an inch in diameter with a vegetable spoon, foies-gras quenelles made with foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78) of the same size, or else replace these by marrow quenelles (No. 353) of the same diameter, small mushrooms and the cutaneous part of a calf's head cue the same size; properly heat the whole, and fill the small vol-au-vent crusts with it; on each one place a round quarter-inch in diameter slice of calf's brains breaded and fried, over this a stuffed Spanish olive (No. 695), and the whole surmounted by a ball of truffle glazed over with meat glaze. (2404). VOL-AU-VENT A LA LUOINI-SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent a la Lucini). Prepare the small vol-au-vent (No. 180): when cooked take off the covers, empty out theinsides and replace these covers by a game quenelle (No. 91) one inch and a half in diameter by an eighth of an inch thick; poach and bread-crumb them by dipping them in Villeroi sauce (No. 560), then rolling them in bread-crumbs, then fry to a good color. Put into a saucepan some brown sauce (No. 414) and Madeira wine; add to this some game fumet(No. 397) mixed with a garnishing composed of two-thirds of small young rabbit quenelles (No. 91) molded in a small coffeespoon (No. 155) and one-third of small turned mushroom heads (No. 118), or in case there be no small ones then cut-up others in two or four pieces. With this garnishing fill the small crusts, lay the Villeroi quenelle on top and in the center of it a round slice of truffle one inch in diameter and glaze over. (2405). VOL-AU-VENT OF OYSTEES A LA MAINTENON-SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent d'Huitres a la Maintenon). Set into a saucepan some fresh butter and lemon juice, place it over a hot fire, and add to it some fine raw oysters; after poaching and draining them cut them into pieces, return to the sauce- pan and season with nutmeg, pepper and salt, and then add some pike quenelles (No. 90); also some cut-up truffles and mushrooms; add a little veloute sauce (No. 415) and thicken it just when ready to serve with raw egg-yolks diluted with a little cream and fine butter. Fill the small vol-au-vent crusts with this, keeping all very warm, put on the cover and serve on a folded napkin. (2406. VOL-AU-VENT, PAKISTAN STYLE SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent a la Parisienne). Have a brown (No. 414) or Madeira sauce (No. 492) and add to it some half-inch squares of veal or lamb sweetbreads, stoned olives cut in four, turned mushrooms (No. 118) and small chicken quenelles. Fill prepared small vol-au-vent crusts with this garnishing and range trussed crawfish on top, then cover. (2407). VOL-AU-VENT OP EEEDBIEDS, DIPLOMATE-SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent de Mesanges Moustaches a la Diplomate). With six turns of puff paste prepare eight small vol-au-vent crusts (No. 180); after taking them out of the oven detach them from the baking sheet and press on the center of the paste to enlarge the hollow space, and keep them warm. Roast two dozen reedbirds, having them rare; remove the breasts without any bones, suppress the skin and lay them in a small sautoir; mix with them an equal proportion of halved game quenelles, molded with a spoon (No. 155) and poached when wanted in salted water; also add three dozen cooked truffles trimmed into small olive shapes; mix these garnish- ings with a not too thin but very hot Madeira sauce (No. 492), and with this fill up the warm vol-au- vent crusts; instead of a cover close the apertures with a ring made of puff paste, and in the center have a large Spanish olive standing upright, stuffed with game baking forcemeat (No. 81) and foies-gras. Dress these vol-au-vent on a folded napkin and send them to the table at once. (2408). VOL-AU-VENT OF SALMON TEOUT A LA EEGENCE-SMALL (Petits Vol-au-vent de Truite Saumone~e a la Eegence). The only difference between bouchees and small vol-au-vent is that bouchees are filled with either a salpicon or a pure'e, while vol-au-vent are filled with small, distinct garnishings. Prepare eight or ten small vol-au-vent crusts (No. 180); cook them in a brisk oven; remove and 722 THE EPICUREAN. detach them from the pan, impress a hollow in the center with the finger and keep them warm. Put into a small saucepan a garnishing composed of a pound of salmon-trout escalops, twelve small poached oysters, twelve mushrooms or cut up morils, twelve small fish quenelles (No. 90) rolled on a floured table and poached, also some small cut-up poached milts; cover these with a rich and very hot Normande sauce (No. 509), finishing with a piece of lobster butter (No. 580). Fill the warm vol- au-vent crusts with this garnishing, cover lightly with some of the sauce instead of a lid, and close the aperture with a pretty mushroom head, turned and very white, left in its natural state. Dress the vol-au-vent at once on folded napkins; they can also be filled with one garnishing only. COLD SERVICE (Service Froid). (2409). COLD DISHES (Le Froid). The cold service is the most elegant and artistic one of the culinary art. It requires taste, skill and much study in order to learn the necessary moldings, modelings and requisite cookery. Orna- ments render the socles and the pieces beautiful and coquettish; their appearance should be neat and precise; the pieces must be well defined and designed before beginning; prepare all the needed materials beforehand so that when the work has once begun there will be nothing to delay the prog- ress. Wax flowers and leaves are very useful, therefore a good workman must learn to make them in great variety. Any ordinary cook can attain renown by studying the complicated ways of preparing cold dishes, but he must give his sole attention to this special part which helps to increase his reputation and develop his ideas, for by it he elevates his trade to a positive art. The manner of properly preparing sauces, side dishes, roasts and pastries should of course be executed with as much care as the cold. Jellies should be tasty, limpid and transparent; if they be defective, then the handsomest pieces are open to criticism. Hatelets and jelly garnishings greatly enhance the appearance of the pieces, therefore care should be used that they are most beautiful and all croutons cut with precision and symmetry. Cold pieces should be prepared beforehand, for they must not be hurried nor left to be finished at the last moment. (2410). ASPIC OF COOKS'-OOMBS AND KIDNEYS A LA MAZARIN (Aspic de Cretes et de Rognons de Ooqs a la Mazarin). Braise some cocks'-combs and kidneys, and when cold drain and wipe well. Cover the combs with a white chaudfroid (No. 596), and the kidneys with a blond chaudfroid made by mixing half brown chaudfroid (No. 594) and half white chaudfroid (No. 596). Coat with jelly a plain cylin- drical or channeled mold, having it rather high, and fill the bottom with the combs dressed in a ring, one overlapping the other, and cover with jelly; lay on top a garnishing of the kidneys, cover with more jelly and when this has hardened dress on some roasted chicken fillets, sliced and pared round-shaped, and covered with ravigote chaudfroid (No. 595); lay these in a circle and continue to fill up the mold, alternating the combs, kidneys and chicken; when very full let get cold and unmold on a small low socle made of stearine. Place a mandrel in the empty space in the mold, and on it a cup filled with small cases containing whole glazed truffles, and decorate around with small timbales (No. 3, Fig. 137) filled with jelly and foies-gras. (2411). ASPIC OF FOIES-GRAS (Aspic de Foies-Gras). Incrust a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) in ice. Unmold on a small baking sheet a terrine of foies-gras; remove all the grease and keep it for one hour on ice. Cut this foies-gras into three- eighths of an inch thick slices, using a knife dipped in hot water, and then cut these slices into inch and a quarter rounds with a pastry cutter also dipped in hot water. Lift up these rounds one by one with a fork and immerse them in a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), having it thin and almost cold; range them at once on a baking sheet and let this sauce get quite stiff on the ice. Cut out some rounds of cooked truffles very nearly the same diameter as the foies-gras, only have half as many; glaze them with a brush and range them at once on a baking sheet. Pour a quarter-inch thick layer of jelly into the mold, and when it has become quite hard dress on it a ring of the foies-gras rounds, the smooth side uppermost and slightly overlapping each other, but alternating every two with a round of truffle; cover this crown with cold jelly an inch and a half in thickness, and again form two more distinct crowns exactly the same as the first one in order to fill up the mold, pouring jelly between each. Keep the mold on ice for one hour or more. In order to turn it out it is only necessary to dip the mold into warm water, wipe dry, and invert it on a cold dish. (723) 724 TTIE EPICUREAN. (2412). ASPIC OF FOIES-GRAS-SMALL (Petits Aspics de Foies-Gras), On a bed of chopped-up ice lay ten timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137); decorate the bottoms of each with a ring of truffles filled with a piece of red tongue, and the sides with fanciful cuts of truffles and egg-white dipped in half-set jelly to make them adhere to the cold molds, then pour into each one an eighth of an inch thickness of jelly. Unmold a terrine of foies-gras, remove from it cylindrical pieces a quarter of an inch less than the diameter of the molds and the same height; range them in the molds, finish filling up with more jelly and set them on ice for half an hour longer. Dip the timbales into hot water to facilitate the unmolding, and dress in a circle either on an inch and a quarter high foundation (Fig. 8) without the central vase, or else simply on a cold dish; fill up the inside of the circle with chopped jelly and set croutons of jelly around. FIG. 446. (2413). TERRINE OF FOIES-GRAS IN ASPIC-WHOLE (Terrine Entiere de Foies-Gras en Aspic). Unmold a terrine of foies-gras; scrape it neatly with a knife on top and sides to remove all the exterior grease, and keep it on ice. Procure a mold of the same shape but an inch wider in diame- ter and an inch deeper; incrust it in pounded ice; decorate the bottom and sides with fanciful cuts of truffles, tongue, egg-white, and pistachios, dipping each piece into half-set jelly before fastening FIG. 447. them on; cover this decoration with a layer of jelly, and pour in more to lay half an inch thick in the bottom. Place the foies-gras exactly in the center and finish filling the mold with cooled-off jelly; keep on ice. Put a rice foundation bottom one inch and a half in height on a plated metal tray with a half-inch high straight edge (the rice foundation should be one inch and a half less in diameter than the tray), turn the aspic out of its mold on to the rice foundation, fastening a small basket on top secured by a skewer, and filling it with small glazed truffles. Decorate around the rice foundation with triangular jelly croutons, as shown in the drawing. COLD SERVICE. 725 (2414). ASPIC OF LOBSTER (Aspic de Eomard). Prepare a wooden foundation about two inches thick and furnished with a slightly raised bor- der on the outer edge so as to uphold the entree when dressed. The aspic mold should be chosen slightly narrower than the bottom of the dish, which is to be covered with paper. Suppress the shells from the tails and claws of two or three small cooked lobsters; cut the tails lengthways in two and also split the claw-meat in two, then put them into a vessel and season. Prepare a gar- nishing of carrots cut into balls with a small vegetable spoon, blanch and lay them in the ves- sel and with them mix gherkin balls cut the same size, small cooked Brussels sprouts, small blanched olives stuffed with anchovies, and a seasoning of salt, oil and vinegar. Incrust on ice a FIG. 448. dome-shaped mold wider than its height, decorate the sides and bottom with designs of hard-boiled egg white, truffles and gherkins; coat the mold rather thickly with jelly; fill the inside with the halved lobster tail and claws, pressing the red side of the meat against the jelly; fill up the hollow space with the prepared carrot balls seasoned as for a salad and finished with mayonnaise sauce with jelly (No. 613). Let the aspic harden on ice for one hour at least. Incrust also on ice twelve small timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137); decorate the bottoms with rounds of truffles, the sides with small round pieces of white of egg and coat them over lightly with jelly; as soon as this is hard fill them up with lobster cream, the same as for No. 2470, and keep them for twenty-five minutes on ice. Just when ready to serve dip the dome mold into hot water, wipe it off quickly and invert the aspic on the raised-edge foundation; on top of it fasten a small lobster cream "pain" molded in a channeled mold, and against the edge of the bottom of the dish unmold the lobster cream tim bales, after dipping the molds into hot water. This is to be served with a separate mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). (2415). ASPIC OF OYSTEES (Aspic d'Huitres). Blanch some oysters, drain, wipe and cool; coat them over with a liberal layer of remoulade sauce (No. 628), to which liquid jelly has been added. Decorate a cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) with fanciful cuts of truffles, egg-white, gherkin and the red part of lobster, dipping each piece in half- set jelly and fastening them on to the bottom and sides of the mold; pour in a layer of jelly, having it half an inch thick, and on it dress the oysters in a circle, one overlapping the other; pour in more jelly to cover these another half inch and continue until the mold be full, then leave for sev- eral hours to become very cold; unmold and garnish around with chopped jelly and croutons. (2416). ASPIC OF PARTEIDGE-MINION FILLETS (Aspic de Filets Mignons de Perdreau). Pare twelve partridge minion fillets; remove all sinews and thin skin and streak them with semicircles of truffles graduated in size; season and bend their thin ends in one direction; poach in a little butter and lemon juice; drain and when cold pare nicely. Incrust a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) in ice. Decorate the sides on the top and bottom with an even chain of round pieces of truffle and red beef tongue, cut out with a tin tube an inch and a quarter in diameter; these pieces are to be dipped in half -set jelly and the red and black colors alternated, letting each chain be at an equal distance from the minions. Decorate the sides in the center as shown in Fig. 449, with the streaked fillets, dipping one at a time in half-set jelly and applying the streaked side to the mold; in order to succeed with this it will be found necessary to incline the mold on ice and turn it around as soon as the jelly hardens and the separate fillets are fastened on firmly. Coat this decoration with a thick layer of jelly and fill the mold with a partridge preparation a la Mont- gomery (No. 2548); leave it to cool on ice for one hour. When prepared to serve, dip the mold in 726 THE EPICUREAN. hot water and invert the aspic on a bed of cold jelly on the bottom of a dish; fill the center with foies-gras balls three-quarters of an inch in size covered with brown chaudfroid (No. 594); on top FIG. 449. place very white cocks'-combs brushed over with jelly and surround these with a chain of small truffles dipped in jelly; keep the aspic on ice for half an hour before serving. (2417). ASPIC OF PHEASANT (Aspic de Faisan). Clean two young pheasants; truss them as for an entree (No. 178), and braise white; cool off, remove the breasts (fillets) and pare into the shape of escalops one inch in diameter by three-six- teenths of an inch in thickness; cover each one with foies-gras. Pound the remainder of the meats and rub through a sieve; put the pulp in a vessel, and add to it a pint of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) prepared with truffle essence (No. 395), and a pint of strong jelly (No. 103); let this get very cold, and with it thickly cover the escalops; leave to cool on ice. Besides this make a puree with one partridge, and dilute it with white chaudfroid (No. 596) ; season highly, rub through a sieve, and mix in as much white jelly (No. 103) as chaudfroid. Coat a cylindrical fancy mold (No. 150) with white jelly, and incrust it very firmly in ice. On the bottom of this mold lay a bed of jelly three- quarters of an inch in thickness; on it arrange some slices of truffles one overlaying the other, each slice to be an inch in diameter and an eighth of an inch thick; on top of these place the escalops; pour on a layer of the white chaudfroid half an inch thick, and on this a row of escalops overlap- ping each other; cover these with more white jelly; now pour in a layer of chaudfroid, and continue the process until the mold be full; leave till very cold, then invert it on a small socle, either of stearin or carved rice (see No. 10). (2418). ASPIC OF PULLET A LA CUSSY (Aspic de Poulards ^ la Cussy). Raise the fillets from six medium chickens, weighing about two pounds each; suppress the epidermis, and remove the minion fillets, from which suppress the sinews and fine skin; pare the large fillets into half-hearts and place them in a buttered sautoir with the pointed ends lying toward the center. Make five gashes on each minion fillet and fill them in with graded scalloped rounds of truffle; roll them up crown-shaped, place them on pieces of buttered paper and with a pocket fill the center with a chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and foies-gras well-mingled, having half of each; lay on top a round piece of red beef tongue, and set these in a buttered sautoir; pour over some clarified butter and lemon juice, and cover each one with a sheet of buttered paper and let cook in a moderate oven. When cold cover the minions with half-set jelly and the large fillets with white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596); when this is cold repeat the operation and lay them on a baking sheet one beside the other with- out allowing them to touch; detach them by slipping a thin-bladed knife under, then pare them into half-hearts all of the same size. Decorate a plain or channeled cylindrical mold with fanciful cuts of truffles, tongue, gherkin, egg-white, or pistachios, dipping them singly into half-set jelly, and applying them symmetrically on to the bottom and sides of the very cold mold, having them only on the top and bottom, leaving the center undecorated. Coat over with jelly so as tc support the decorations, then lay the minion fillets half an inch from the bottom, and at even distances from one another; fill it up with jelly half an inch above the minions, and when this is set dress on the large fillets, one overlapping the other, the pointed ends downward; then fill up with jelly and let it get perfectly hard. Have a plain dish covered with a tin bottom, and spread this with ravigote butter (No. 583) and a round of white paper over; unmold the aspic on this, and fill the center with a wooden support with a cup filled with cut-up vegetables on top, held on with a skewer. Around the bottom range chopped jelly and crusts. COLD SERVICE:. 727 (2419). ASPIC OP QUAILS-BEEASTS (Aspic de Filets de dailies), Kaise the breasts and minion fillets from three or four quails, pare and beat lightly, season and poach in butter and lemon juice, keeping them rare; cool them off under the pressure of a light weight between two buttered papers. Detach the minion fillets from the carcass and streak them with truffles; poach them also in butter and lemon juice, bending them slightly. Divide each large fillet into two pieces, pare them neatly and dip them one by one in a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) ; range them as fast as they are done on a baking sheet to harden the sauce, then pare. Cut some croutons of very tender red beef tongue, having them the shape of the fillets, only half as many, and trim them nicely. Imbed a fancy cylindrical mold (Fig. 148) in ice; on the bottom lay a thin bed of jelly and on this dress the minion fillets, pressing them down on the sides that are streaked; cover them gradually with cold jelly to have it form a thickness of about an inch, then let it set; dress the fillets in a circle on this, laying them on their smoothest side and alternating every two with a crouton of red beef tongue; cover this circle with another layer of the jelly half an inch thick and form more circles with the fillets, proceeding as for the others. Fill the mold with cold jelly, put the mold aside on ice for an hour, and just when ready to serve invert the aspic on a bed of jelly hardened on a dish and surround it with small paper cases filled with small truffles covered with a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). (2420). ASPIC OF TONGUE A LA PICQUAKT (Aspic de Langue a la Picquart). To make this aspic use a mold having four rounded top uprights without the central tube; decorate the flat part of the mold between the uprights with rounded bits of hard-boiled egg-whites and the uprights each with three rosettes, also of the egg-white; coat with a thick layer of jelly and fill each upright with tongue cut in slices three-sixteenths of inch thick, well pared and cut FIG. 450. round, then reconstructed as before; keep the thinnest end of the tongue at the bottom of the mold. Put a solid piece of tongue in the center of the mold to hold up the cupid. Set the mold on ice, fill it with jelly and when this is exceedingly cold unmold the aspic on a stand made in two pieces, one of which is nine inches and a half in diameter by one inch and a half high, the other eight and a quarter inches in diameter and one and a half inches high; both should be covered with montpellier butter (No. 582), besprinkled with chopped parsley. Garnish around the base of the aspic with chopped jelly and surround the upper tier with triangular croutons of clear 728 THE: EPICUREAN. jelly and the lower one with timbales of foies-gras made in molds (No. 3, Fig. 137); in the center of the aspic place a cupid supporting a vase filled with small glazed truffles. (2421). ASPIC OF VEAL WITH MAOEDOINE ARTICHOKES-KERNEL (Aspic de Veau aux Artichauts Mac6doine). Braise a kernel of veal after larding the inside parts with veal udder, ham and truffles; put it in an oval mold to cool, pressing down well. Unmold, and cut it into slices. Decorate a larger mold with vegetables, coat it by pouring in some jelly and turning the mold so that the jelly covers the vegetables, then pour in more jelly to have a quarter of an inch in thickness at the bottom and lay the sliced kernel over, having reformed it to its original shape, then fill up entirely with slightly cool jelly. When perfectly cold unmold on a dish and surround the meat with chopped jelly, lay on top some artichoke bottoms filled with macedoine (No. 2650) and decorate the summit with three Bellevue hatelets (No. 2526). (2422). ASPICS WITH SHKIMPS-SMALL (Petits Aspics aux Crevettes). Shell one hundred shrimp tails, having them cooked very red; keep them covered in a cool place. Make a quart of good aspic jelly (No. 103). Incrust in ice ten timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137); decorate them with fanciful pieces of truffles or gherkins, covering the decoration with a thin layer of jelly, then pile on the shrimp tails symmetrically all around, sticking them in with the point of a larding needle after dipping them one at a time in half-set jelly. When the sides are covered, fill the hollow in the center with a bed of green asparagus; on top of the asparagus lay some jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), on this chopped mushrooms, and so on until the mold is full, finishing with mayonnaise. Keep the aspics on ice for three-quarters of an hour before unmold- ing and dress them on a bed of jelly on a dish to prevent them from slipping off. (2423). VOLLERE GALANTINE OF PHEASANTS A LA OASIMIE PERIER (Voliere Galantine de Faisans a la Oasimir Pe~rier). Procure two fine English pheasants with handsome plumage, remove the skin with the feathers from the neck and upper breast, also the wings and tails, being careful not to destroy their beauty. FIG. 451. Fix the heads in such a way that they retain their natural appearance. Bone the pheasants, spread them open on a cloth. Prepare half a pound of peeled truffles cut in quarter-inch squares, half a pound of fat livers the same size; make a forcemeat with three-quarters of a pound of white game breasts and one pound and a quarter of pork tenderloin, also adding two pounds of fat pork. Chop the whole separately and very finely, season with galantine spices (No. 168) and pound to a pulp; press it through a sieve, afterward adding some finely chopped truffle peelings; COLD SERVICE. 729 mix this well with the squares of truffles and fat livers, also a few pistachios. Season the pheas- ants, divide the forcemeat in two parts, one for each bird, and fill them with it; roll the two galantines in separate napkins, tie firmly at both ends and in the center: cook in a game stock made with parings of white meat game; when well done take them out and leave to cool off slightly; rewrap in the same napkins after cleansing them in clear water, having them six inches long; tie them uptight at the ends and leave to cool under a light weight; unwrap when cold and glaze over with a not too thick brown chaudfroid (No. 594). Ornament one end with the head, and the other with the tail, placing the wings on the sides, keeping them in position with skewers; the necks should be strongly salted and have a rather thick wire inserted in the bone of the head, then stuffed with cotton so that it resumes its original size and shape; finish with an oval piece of cardboard about three inches in length. Dress the pheasants on small oval socles from four to five inches high, these to be made of tin covered with noodle paste (No. 142), glazed and decorated, then placed on a larger socle, regarding the details for which see drawing. These tin socles can be replaced by others made either of stearin or carved rice, or else an oval pie crust the same size as the tin ones. On the edge of the socle lay small cases, each one to contain a truffle glazed over with game glaze (No. 398), or garnished with foies-gras, or else small boned birds stuffed, braised and glazed with brown chaudfroid (No. 594). (2424). VOLIERE GALANTINE OP PHEASANT A LA WADDINGTON (Voliere Galantine de Paisan a la Waddington). Prepare one pheasant instead of two as described in the Casimir Perier; dress it exactly the same and stand it on an oval socle four to five inches high by seven and a half inches long and four inches wide; place this on another oval socle about six inches high, eleven and a half inches long and eight inches wide. Pick off all the meat from a young rabbit, cut it in small dice and fry them in fat pork over a brisk fire; when cold, pound and add the same quantity of grated fresh fat pork; pound all together again and season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; press it through a sieve and mix in with the preparation a quarter as much fat pork cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, and then blanched, and as much truffle cut the same size With this fill twelve timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), cover with very thin slices of fat pork, and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour; remove and set aside to cool. Decorate some timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137), with cuts of truffles and egg-white, pour a little jelly into the bottom of each mold. Unmold the No. 2 tim- bales, remove all the fat from the bottoms and sides, pare nicely and then put them into the No. 1 molds, filling up with jelly; when very firm, unmold and arrange them around the small socle of the galantine exactly under the pheasant, placing a border of jelly croutons outside. (2425). BALLOTINES OF LAMB CUPOLA SHAPED (Ballotines d'Agneau en Forme de Ooupole), Bone two shoulders of spring lamb, remove all fat and sinews and fill them with a stuffing made with half a pound of veal, half a pound of fresh fat pork and a quarter of a pound of cooked and finely chopped ham; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley and chives; mix into it some truffles, pistachios and cooked tongue, all cut into three-sixteenths of an inch dice pieces. Spread the shoulders on the table, season and put in the dressing; sew up to enclose it well, giving each a round form, then braise with very little moistening, putting them into a saucepan lined with bards of fat pork and wetting with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419). When well done place them in oval cupola-shaped molds and let cool off under a weight; remove, wash the molds well and decorate with fanciful cuts of truffles, pistachios and tongue dipped in half-set jelly; coat the inside of the mold with a layer of white chaudfroid, return the meats as before and finish filling with jelly. Unmold when thoroughly cold and dress on long dishes on a socle of rice two inches high, the size of the cupola. Have prepared some red lambs' tongues, salted, blanched and braised for two hours in a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419) the same as the shoulders; drain, skin and set under a weight; strain their stock over and when very cold pare them all of uniform size and oval-shaped; the size is three inches long by two wide and a quarter of an inch thick; glaze and dress around the lamb cupolas, one overlapping the other. Garnish around the dish with chopped jelly and croutons and lay some croustades filled with a macedoine of vegetables (No. 2650) mingled with a little mayonnaise (No. 606). Stick Bellevue hatelets (No. 2526) on top of each cupola. (2426). BALLOTINES OF QUAIL A LA TIVOLIER (Ballotines de Cailles alaTivolier). Remove all the meats from three young rabbits; keep the minion fillets aside and suppress the sinews from the remainder; pass the meat twice through the machine (Fig. 47), weigh and 730 THE EPICUREAN. allow double the same quantity of unsalted fat pork. Chop up the pork fat, add the rabbit meat and chop together once more. Chop up also eight ounces of lean ham cooked separately and mix this in with the rabbit, seasoning with salt and spices for game galantines (No. 168). Bone twelve quails, equalize the meats, removing half of the fillets to lay them in the places that are bare of meat; spread a third of the forcemeat over the birds and on each one lay four small truffles, wrapped in udder, placing them in lengthwise; on each side of these truffles put slices of well- seasoned rabbit tenderloin, and over another third part of the forcemeat and four more truffles; lay at each end and in the center the remainder of the tenderloins and forcemeat over the whole. Close up the quails, sew and wrap them in slices of fat pork, then in a cloth; tie it firmly to keep the galantines in good shape. Line a braiziere (Fig. 134) with bards of fat pork, lay the boned quail on top with the game carcasses around; moisten with plenty of mirepoix stock (No. 419). Two hours' cooking will be quite sufficient; take off and put them under weight in molds the same shape as the ones used for ballotines of squabs a la Madison (No. 2427) and when very cold unmold and wash the same molds and decorate them with truffles and white of egg; cover the decora- tions with a light coating of jelly; fill them with the quails and jelly; leave on ice for two hours then turn them over and dress them on a trimmed rice socle two inches high; garnish around with chopped jelly and over this cold artichoke bottoms (No. 2501). Garnish the center with small crescents of red beef tongue glazed with jelly. (2427). BALLOTINES OP SQUABS A LA MADISON (Ballotines de Pigeonneaux a la Madison). Bone twelve squabs, previously singed and cleaned; season with salt and pepper. Cut into quarter-inch dice a quarter of a pound of peeled truffles, a quarter of a pound of fat pork, a quarter of a pound of fat livers, a quarter of a pound of lean ham and a quarter of a pound of pistachios; put all of these into a vessel and pour some Madeira wine over. Prepare a forcemeat with half a pound of chicken meat, half a pound of lean pork, both free of sinews, and a pound of fresh fat pork; run twice through the machine (Fig. 47), pound to a pulp and rub through FIG. 452. a sieve (Fig. 97). Put this forcemeat in a vessel, add to it half a pound of liver forcemeat (No. 81), and the chopped truffle peelings; mix the salpicon in with and divide it up into twelve equal parts. Lay one of these into each boned squab, inclose it neatly in the skin and lay each bird in an oval dome-shaped mold three and three-eighths inches long, two and three-eighths inches wide and one and three-quarters inches deep. Range these molds on a baking sheet, cover over with another one and cook in a slack oven for about forty-five minutes; after removing lay small boards on top of each, they to be a quarter of an inch thick, three and a quarter inches long and two and a quarter inches wide, of the same oval shape as the molds themselves. Set these aside to cool with a board over and weights on top; then unmold, clean the molds properly and decorate them with fanciful cuts of truffles; cover with a light coat of jelly and another coat of white chaudfroid (No. 596); place one of the ballotines in each, fill up with jelly and unmold again when cold; they are to be dressed on the platforms as explained later on. Place on a round dish, as shown in Fig. 452, around-shaped stearin socle an inch and a half thick by seven and a half in diameter; fasten a slanting center support to the middle of this and on it have three metal uprights held firmly by the COLD SERVICE. 731 upraised edges of the dish. Each one of these uprights is provided with four platforms attached by movable hinges and beside has two sharp points near the edge so as to keep the ballotines in place. They are kept together by another small platform that is fastened to each upright by means of a small hook. On top lay a stearine vase garnished with cut vegetables to imitate flowers or other objects. Between each shelf at the base place a fine emptied tomato filled with seasoned macedoine (No. 2650) dressed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). Fill the basin of the dish with chopped jelly and clusters of truffle set at intervals, and around it set evenly cut croutons. Place on the large socle or on another dish. Have a socle made the same as represented in Fig. 453; this can be of mutton and veal fat, partly mixed with virgin wax to produce more firmness, or else it can be made of stearine. When the pieces composing the FIG. 453. socle, or properly speaking the body of the socle, such as the three griffons, the three shells ana the stearine support, are modeled they are to be scraped the same as described in No. 56. Take a round board an inch and a half high and thirteen inches in diameter; cover it with a sheet of white paper and lay it on a large, round silver dish or tray; in the center arrange the principal parts of the socle; on the base of this socle place the three griffons and on these the three shells so they are supported by them, and the handles of the shells lie in the hollow parts of the socle intended to hold them firmly; these different parts are to be fastened with royal icing (No. 101); in the center place a stearine support an inch and a quarter high by five and a half inches in diameter; have the whole resting very straight and fastened together with royal icing (No. 101). The base of the socle can be garnished between the griffons by laying on the board some cases of larks glazed over with chaud- froid or "pains" of foies-gras or else croustades of rice filled with streaked minion fillets; on top of these lay two emptied mushrooms one and a half inches in diameter, stuffed with foies-gras, then fastened together to form balls, glazing them over with chaudfroid. The shells are to be filled with glazed truffles or crescents of tongue covered with jelly, or else substitute shells of foies-gras removed with a spoon and sprinkled over with chopped jelly. The socle is now ready to receive either a ballotine Madison or a galantine of partridge a la Clementine (No. 2491) or any other cold piece. The advantage of using the decorated socles is that any dish can be placed on them to give a finer appearance, yet the dish can be simply laid on the table on top of a plain silver dish, if a plainer service be required. (2428), STKIPED BASS OE SEA BASS A LA MANHATTAN (Bass KayS ou Bass de Her a la Manhattan). Raise the fillets from a striped bass; remove the skin and bones, pare each one into an oval two inches by three inches, and lay them in a buttered sautoir; season with salt, pepper, and very finely chopped onion; moisten with white wine, and cook smothered in the oven; now lay them under the pressure of a light weight, pare once more, and when exceedingly cold cover entirely with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), and return them to the ice-box. Prepare a pound of very fresh, boneless and skinless bass, put in a sautoir two tablespoonfuls of onions, and six ounces of clarified butter; first fry the onion lightly, then add the well-drained fish; season with salt, nut- meg, and cayenne pepper, and cook in a moderate oven; drain and let get cold; now suppress all the small bones from its meat and pound it well, slowly adding the stock mingled with a few spoon- fuls of bechamel sauce (No. 409) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392) until it becomes quite 732 THE EPICUREAN. thick. Rub the forcemeat through a sieve, and place it in a vessel on ice to beat up well, incor- porating into it a gill of jelly (No. 103); try a small part to discover whether sufficiently firm, and then add a little dissolved isinglass; thicken on ice and put in the value of a pint of unsweetened and well-drained whipped cream. Coat some No. 2 mousseline molds (Fig. 138) with jelly, dredge over chopped lobster coral, and fill with the preparation ; keep them on ice, and when very hard un- mold and dress in a circle one beside the other on a round or oval dish into the bottom of which a little jelly has been poured and allowed to harden.; in the center dress the escalops of bass; surround with chopped jelly and croutons; brush the fish over with almost cold jelly, and keep the dish very cold until ready to serve, sending it to the table accompanied by a fine herb mayon- naise sauce (No. 612). (2429). BASTION A L'AMERIOAINE (Bastion k TAmericaine). Bone thoroughly six chickens weighing two pounds each; suppress the sinews and trim the meats evenly. To six pounds of chopped forcemeat for chicken galantines (No. 65) add one pound of lean cooked ham, well chopped, and half a pound of chopped truffle peelings; mix the whole well together with two gills of Madeira wine and one gill of brandy. Spread out the boned FIG. 454. chickens on the table, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and fill each one first with an eight- ounce layer of the forcemeat, then here and there lay two ounces of peeled, sliced truffle, a few pistachio nuts and some red beef tongue cut into quarter-inch squares, and over these spread another eight-ounce layer of forcemeat; repeat with the same quantity of truffles, tongue and pistachios and finish filling the chickens with the remainder of the forcemeat, dividing it equally between the chickens; they should all be of equal weight, about two pounds each. Enclose the stuffing well and roll them up into long, well-rounded shapes; wrap each galantine tightly in a cloth, tie it on both ends, also in the center, and place them in a saucepan with the bones, parings and a dozen calves' feet split length wise in two; moisten with stock (No. 194a) and boil, skim and cook slowly for two hours, then drain. Fifteen minutes later unwrap and re-enclose them again in a clean cloth, tie as before and make a loop on one end to hang them up by, and let get cold, suspended from a hook, and to the other end attach a weight to pull the cloth down and thereby pressing the COLD SERVICE. 733 galantine. After they have been left hanging for six hours, unwrap and lay them aside in a cool place. Have a bastion mold the same as shown in Fig. 454; it is made in two pieces, one large one and a smaller one on top; incrust it in chopped ice and decorate according to the illustration with tongue, truffles and egg-whites; imitate the door with chopped pistachios mixed with jelly and coat the decoration with a thick layer of jelly; lay it flat on a very straight table, also the tower, then unwrap the galantines, pare off the ends and put one at each end or turret, two in the center and one cut lengthwise in two and placed in the mold so that the flat side faces the door, thus making five galantines for the large mold; now place one in the tower mold and with the pieces left over fill the four cupolas surmounting the four towers; allow the molds to get thoroughly cold for six to eight hours, then unmold on a long socle and trim around with square croutons to imitate the battlements; stick a small pointed ornament in each cupola. The piece is now ready to serve. (2430). PRESSED CORN BEEF (Boeuf Presse" a 1'Ecarlate). He-move the bones from a piece of breast or brisket of beef weighing about twelve pounds; put it in a brine of saltpetre (No. 15). After salting for eight days, drain and wash the meat; put it in a soup pot with plenty of water; let come to a boil, skim and leave to cook very slowly for four or five hours. When the meat is thoroughly done, untie the string, tighten the meat in the cloth, and fasten it like a boned turkey at both ends. Lay it under the press or a weight and as soon as the corned beef is cold undo and glaze it with some meat glaze (No. 402). Cut it in thin slices, replace as it was before cutting, garnish the dish with chopped-up jelly, or parsley sprigs, and serve. (2431). EIBS OP BEEP A LA BOURGEOISE (Cotes de Boeuf a la Bourgeoise). Select a three-rib piece from the thinnest end of the ribs; remove two of the bones, leaving the middle one only. Lard the lean part of the meat with lardons (No. 1, Fig. 52) of raw, salted and unsmoked ham, season with mignonette and allspice, wrap it up in bards of bacon and tie. Garnish the bottom of a buttered braiziere (Fig. 134), with sliced onions and a carrot, a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), and moisten with one gill of Madeira wine, one gill of brandy, and a sufficient quantity of stock (No. 194a) to immerse the meat to three-quarters of its height. Boil, skim, and let cook for two and a half to three hours, turning the meat over and basting frequent- ly; then remove it from the fire, and leave it in the stock to get about two-thirds cold, then take it out and lay it under a weight, and when completely cold pare it nicely into the shape of a cutlet; scrape the surface of the bone, and glaze the meat. Set it on a dish, and garnish around with pear-shaped carrots and turnips, previously blanched and cooked in white broth with a little sugar, and reduced to a glaze. Clarify the stock in the braiziere in order to make a jelly (as explained in' No. 103), garnish the dish with this jelly chopped up, and cut triangular-shaped croutons; fasten into the meat three handsome hatelets of vegetables (No. 2526); trim the bone with a large paper frill (No. 10). (2432). RIBS OP BEEF IN BELLEVUE (Cotes de Boeuf en Bellevue). After the ribs of beef are prepared, cook them the same as for a la Bristed (No. 1329), adding several calves' feet. When the meat is well cooked, remove it from the fire, strain the gravy, and clarify it. Pare the meat well, and glaze. Have a jelly-coated mold sufficiently large to contain this, put it in and fill the entire mold with jelly, leaving it on the ice till ready to serve. Unmold it on a large dish, garnish around with chopped jelly, and form an outside border of oblongs or triangles of jelly. (2433). RUMP OF BEEF A LA MODE (Piece de Boeuf ou Pointe de Culotte a la Mode). For this dish use a piece of beef prepared as for a la mode a la bourgeoise (No. 1340). When nearly cold put it into an oblong mold four inches deep and four inches wide by eight inches long; lay the mold on ice. Range some balls of braised carrots half an inch in diameter on the bottom of the mold. Place the meat on top, covering with stock; harden and arrange over some carrots; cover with partly set jelly, and when this is cold add the rest of the meat, and when entirely cold cut in half-inch thick slices. Range on a long dish in a straight line and garnish around with chopped jelly. Another way is to have the meat arranged in the same mold as above, skim all the fat from the beef stock, strain it through a fine sieve and add to it as much strong jelly and a quarter bottle- ful of white wine; boil and cool. With this jelly cover the slices of beef, allow to get cold, unmold 734 TFIE EPICUREAN. and dress on a long dish, and garnish around with small carrots, cut pear-shaped; cook and let fall to a glaze. Then season, cool and roll in a little cold jelly; surround these with slices of gherkin. Beef a la mode can also be placed in a mold and have another larger one decorated with carrots, turnips and gherkins; protect the decoration with a heavy layer of jelly; unmold the smallest mold and place the contents in the largest or decorated one; fill up with jelly, let get cool, then unmold by dipping it in hot water; garnish around with chopped jelly, and outside of it arrange triangle or oblong jelly croutons. (2434). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BOUQUETIEEE (Filet de Bceuf a la Bouquetiere). Prepare and cook a fine tenderloin, the same as described in 1'Ambassade (No. 1441), only omit- ting the larding. Let it get cool, keeping it very straight, and when thoroughly cold trim it to a nice shape, and pour over it a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594); when the chaudfroid is firm cover it entirely with half -set jelly. Put the tenderloin on top of a two-tier foundation, made either of rice or hominy, the bottom one being two inches thick, the top one three-quarters of an inch, and shaped symmetrically. Fill each of thirty small paper cases with a different vegetable, or several of each kind say three of each such as green peas, string beans, flageolets or kidney beans, Brussels sprouts, beets, cauliflower, artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, truffles and celery, seasoned and mixed with a little mayonnaise (No. 606). Prepare fifteen roses cut from turnips, and fifteen cut from carrots, each one inch in diameter, blanched and cooked separately in white broth (No. 194a). Set a rose on the top of each and alternate the colors when decorating the upper tier with fourteen of these, and the lower one with sixteen; force some chopped jelly through a cornet or a bag between each case around the bottom and the edge, and outside of this place a row of jelly squares. Gar- nish the top of the tenderloin with five hatelets of vegetables (No. 2526), imitating natural flowers, the center one representing a vase decorated with small flowers. (2435). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA EVERS (Filet de Bceuf a la Evers). This tenderloin is to be prepared and cooked exactly the same as for a la Bienvenue (No. 1445); when done, pare it nicely, and cut it into quarter of an inch thick slices; lay these in an oblong mold the same shape as the tenderloin but smaller than the one to be decorated. Keduce the gravy, add some aspic jelly (No. 103), (test the consistency of this by putting a small quantity of it in a mold on the ice, and if it should not be firm enough add some gelatine), fill in the mold containing the meat with this, and set it aside on ice to get very cold. Decorate the largest mold with pieces of tongue, pistachio nuts, and white of egg; cover the decoration with a heavy layer of jelly; Tin- mold the one containing the meat, lay it in the center of the decorated one, and fill it in with jelly. Fill the entire center up to the inside of the dish destined for the tenderloin, edge with jelly, and when very firm unmold the tenderloin on to the center of it. Lay on each end half a nicely carved rice vase, these being filled with imitations of small truffles made of mousselme of foies-gras, and then rolled in finely chopped truffles. When cold dip them in partly cold jelly, and arrange chopped jelly all around, also oblong-shaped jelly croutons, and fasten three hatelets decorated in Bellevue (No. 2526) on the top of the meat. (2436). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA LUCULLUS (Filet de Bceuf a la Lucullus). In order to arrange this tenderloin it will be necessary to have eight molds in two series of four each, four to be decorated and four in which the tenderloins are molded, these being an inch narrower in diameter than those to be decorated. Prepare and cook the tenderloin as explained in FAmbassade (No. 1441); when done, cut it into slices and reshape the meat into its original form and fill the four smallest molds with it. Reduce the stock with aspic jelly (No. 103), (If necessary add some isinglass to have it very firm), pour over the meat in the molds and set on ice to get very cold. Decorate the four larger molds (see Fig. 455) intended to receive the tenderloin after they are decorated; cover the decoration with a layer of thick jelly, unmold the smaller ones, put their con- tents inside the larger ones and fill up with very firm jelly. After the jelly is very firm unrnold the whole on a cloth, set at the bottom of the slope on each side of the bridge a strong tin square three and a half inches in width and three inches high, having rounded corners and bent in the center COLD SERVICE. 735 to form a right angle; these squares are intended to keep up the tenderloins on the inclined slope, and are most necessary; place the small molds at the ends, and set around the piece twenty-four FIG. 455. small croustades made of short paste (No. 135), and filled with goose livers taken from a terrine of foies-gras; around these throw some chopped jelly, making a very regular border of croutons of the same. Stick two hatelets, one at each end, and in the center put a small figure holding up a cup filled with glazed truffles. (2437). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA NOAILLES (Filet de Bceuf k la Noailles). This tenderloin must be prepared exactly the same as for a la Bayonnaise (No. 1443); when cold trim it nicely and glaze it with meat glaze (No. 402), using a brush for the purpose. Cover it with jelly and set it on a symmetrically carved rice foundation, garnishing around with mushrooms, truffles, scallops of foies-gras and chicken mousselines made in tartlet molds. The mushrooms are to be cooked and emptied with a vegetable scoop, then filled with a foies-gras, pressed through a tammy and glazed in a white chaudfroid (No. 596). The chicken mousselines should be covered with green chaudfroid (No. 595), and scallops of foies-gras to be covered with a brown chaudfroid (No. 594), the truffles glazed. Arrange this garnishing around the tenderloin with chopped jelly and croutons of jelly, but do not decorate it with hatelets. (2438). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA VIOLETTA (Filet de Bceuf k la Violetta). Have the tenderloin prepared and cooked the same as for a la Bayonnaise (No. 1443), and when completely cold pare it to the needed size to fit in an oblong mold, previously decorated with a variety of vegetables blanched and cooked in broth (No. 194a). Cover this decoration with a heavy coating of jelly; cut the tenderloin nine inches long by three and a half wide; trim it nicely and lay it in the center of the mold and imbed it in ice, laying it in very straight. Fill up the mold with cold melted jelly, and when it becomes quite cold and the jelly thoroughly firm, unmold it on an oval dish, and garnish around with some finely chopped jelly. Select eight equal-sized, large, ripe and very firm tomatoes; plunge them into boiling water to peel off the skins, and empty the insides through an inch and a quarter opening on the stalk end. Shred some lettuce leaves and cooked beet-root, season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and thicken the whole with a little jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), mixing in with it some whipped cream; fill the tomatoes with this, and put the covers on again; coat them over with partly cold jelly; also have eight cooked arti- choke bottoms, garnish each one with asparagus tops seasoned and thickened with jellied mayon- naise (No. 613), adding to it some whipped cream. Place on top of the asparagus a small black truffle glazed with jelly; garnish around the inside of the dish with chopped jelly. Lay the pre- pared garnishings over, and intercalate around these a row of jelly croutons (Fig. 457). 736 THE EPICUREAN. (2439). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, GRENADINS ROOHAMBEAU (Filet de Bcenf, Grenadins Rochambeau). Prepare twelve tenderloins into half-heart shapes, each one weighing four ounces; lard ones third of them with larding pork, cut as represented in No. 3, Fig. 52, another third with truffles, and the last third with salted unsmoked tongue; braise them in a mirepoix stock (No. 419), and glaze, then cool and pare. Dress them in a circle on a round dish, alternating the various lard- ings, and fill the center with some foies-gras scooped from a terrine with a spoon; arrange chopped jelly around, surrounded by a border of jelly croutons. (2440). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH OROUSTADES MACEDOINE (Filet de Boeuf aux Oroustades Macedoine). Prepare, lard, braise and glaze a fine tenderloin the same as for alaBienvenue (No. 1445); put it aside to cool, keeping it very straight, then pare and glaze. Set it on a small rice foundation two and a half inches high and symmetrically carved (Fig. 9a). Garnish around with small croustades made ot foundation paste (No. 135); fill these croustades with a small vegetable macedoine (No. 2650); season well and thicken with a ravigote mayonnaise (No. 612); sprinkle over some very finely chopped chervil, and garnish around the croustades with a row of chopped jelly. Decorate the top of the tenderloin with some Bellevue hatelets (No. 2526). (2441). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF WITH VEGETABLES, MAYONNAISE (Filet de Boeuf aux Legumes, Mayonnaise). Prepare and cook a tenderloin the same as for a la Chanzy (No. 1447), keeping it quite rare; glaze it over several times and leave till cold. The drawing that accompanies this dish will show the way to prepare the meat for a supper, or for serving at a small sideboard supper. First take an oval-shaped drum, three inches high and hollow in the center, fasten it on an oval board a quarter of an inch thick and an inch wider than the outlines of the drum; on top of this drum lay an oval wooden socle an inch and a half high and slightly curved in the center, it being two inches narrower all around than the drum itself, thus forming a shelf. Decorate all around the drum with small sticks of vegetables, such as carrots and turnips, cut out with a tin tube five-six- FIG. 456. teenths of an inch in diameter, and blanched separately in salted water; lay them in regular rows one over the other formed of the two distinct colors, being careful to dip each piece in half-set jelly to make it adhere to the form; when the drum is all decorated, glide it on to a long dish, the bottom being filled with jelly; keep it in a cool place at forty-two degrees temperature. Pare and cut up the tenderloin in crosswise slices, each a quarter of an inch thick, dress them on the second curved- shape form, glaze and cover over with jelly. Have a garnishing of Brussels sprouts, celery roots, ana cucumbers, all of uniform size, also some green peas, all ot these to be dressed in small clusters, alternating the various colors; these must be placed on the shelf between the drum and the curve; put chopped jelly in the dish around the piece. Serve mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) at the same time. (2442). BORDERS OF DIFFERENT SHAPED JELLY CROUTONS (Bordures de Diff&entes Formes en Croutons de Gele'e). Procure very firm and very clear jelly (No. 123) cooled on tin plates two inches high; unmold when very cold on wet napkins having all the moisture squeezed out, then spread on the table without COLD SERVICE. 731 any creases whatever. The jelly can be cut into many shapes (see Figs. 457 to 465, jelly crouton*, for borders). Lay them on the edge of the inside of the basin with regularity. They must oe FIG. 457. FIG. 458. FIG. 459. FIG. 460. FIG. 461. FIG. 462. FIG. 463. FIG. 464. FIG. 465. cut very evenly. The effect they produce can easily be seen on the different designs the plates offer. Round croutons are cut with a round pastry cutter that has been vvell heated in hot water. The thickness of the crouton should be in proportion to its diameter. (2443), VEGETABLE BORDERS (Bordures de Legumes), Boil and cook in salted water some carrots, turnips, green peas and whole string beans; keep them all slightly firm. Cut the carrots into three-sixteenths of an inch to a quarter of an inch thick slices, according to the size of the border; lay these slices on a napkin to dry, then out half- FIG. 466. FIG. 46". FIG. 468. rings from them with a column tube and coat them with half-set jelly. Fasten them on by dipping into half-set jelly, and then placing them tastefully on the edge of the basin of a very cold disb.; range the string beans in lozenge form between the half-rings at the base and the green peas on the center of the half-rings on top. 738 THE EPICUREAN. (2444). BUTTER BOBDEKS (Bordures en Beurre). These borders are not very practical; they can only be made when the temperature is very low and are only mentioned in case there be no other resource available; yet they can be of great utility. The butter should be well kneaded to remove all foreign matter that it might contain; it should be FIG. 469. colored green or red; spread it out on sheets of paper three-sixteenths of an inch thick, then leave to cool; invert these on wet napkins, and remove the paper; cut it into rounds, rings, or triangles. Dress them on the border of a dish, alternating the colors; the dish must be kept in the refrig- erator until required. (2445). MOLDED JELLY BORDER (Bordure de GelSe Moul^e). Incrust a metal border mold, either of tinned copper or tin, on ice; decorate it with fanciful cuts, either of truffles, tongue, egg-white, pistachio nuts or vegetables, done by dipping them in half- FIG. 470. set jelly. When the mold is decorated, coat this decoration with a layer of jelly, done by rolling the jelly in the mold on the decoration until there is a layer sufficiently thick to protect it; fill up with jelly. When sufficiently firm unmold the border on a dish, having the basin filled with very firm jelly. The border can be filled with foies-gras, chaudfroid, etc. (2446). LAMBS' BRAINS WITH MAYONNAISE (Oervelles d'Agneau a la Mayonnaise). Steep six lambs' brains in fresh water for half an hour; skin them by lifting off the thin cuti- cle enveloping them, also the sanguineous fibers, and return them to fresh water to soak for two hours more. Place them in a saucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover, adding salt and vinegar, and let boil slowly for twenty minutes. When cold and drained, dress in a circle, placing between every brain a crouton of red lambs' tongue cut to resemble cocks'-combs; decorate all around with garnishing of eggs (No. 2513), gherkins and beets; fill the center of the circle with some green mayonnaise with fine herbs (No. 612), and surround with pretty clear jelly croutons. (2447). OASES OF LOBSTER A LA RAVIGOTE-SMALL (Petites Oaisses de Homard a la Ravigote). Place nine or twelve small china cases two inches in diameter on ice to become thoroughly cold. Split across in two the meats taken from six cooked lobster claws, and cut these up into FIG. 471. small rounds, using a vegetable cutter one and a quarter inches in diameter for the purpose, and lay them in a small-sized vessel with half as many rounds of truffles cut the same size as the lobster COLD SERVICE. 739 and two or three spoonfuls of gherkins cut in slices; season with salt, a dash of cayenne pepper, oil and vinegar and let stand for fifteen minutes; drain off the seasoning; fill the cases with the preparation mixed with mayonnaise printaniere, and cover the top with a layer of mayonnaise (No. 606), finished with tarragon vinegar; smooth the jelly sauce and dress the cases on a folded napkin. (2448). OASES OF SNIPE WITH JELLY-SMALL (Petites Caisses de Be"cassines & la Gelfe). This entree should be served on a dish having its bottom covered with cooked paste (No. 131) and the outer edge decorated with an open-work border of the same; and in the center a cone- shaped support, first covered with paper then with chopped jelly. This support must have a hole through the top in order to sustain a hatelet. Bone six large snipe, stuff them with chopped force- meat (No. 77); to this add the chopped entrails of the bird sauted in butter and sew them up to keep the stuffing in. Maintain them in shape with a band of buttered paper. Range them in a narrow sautoir lined with fat pork and aromatic herbs, moisten with half a glassful of white wine and reduce on a brisk fire; then moisten to about their height with stock (No. 194a) ; season and mask over FIG 472. with fat pork. Boil the liquid for five minutes and then remove the saucepan to a slower fire, or to a slack oven to cook for half an hour, then let cool off in their own stock. Unwrap the snipe, pare and split them lengthwise in two, shape them properly to fit the half -heart paper cases and range the halved birds on a small baking sheet and set them aside to cool fora quarter of an hour. Now take up each half snipe, one by one, and dip them in a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) thickened when required to have it quite firm; return them to the sheet and remove them separately when hard, to suppress any surplus sauce; brush them over lightly with jelly and lay each half in a half -heart -shaped case having its bottom covered with chopped jelly. Range the cases around the support, the point upward, leaning them against the border; insert a garnished hatelet into the top of the support. Surround the bottom of the dish with a chain of triangle jelly croutons. (2449). OASES OP THKUSHES WITH JELLY-SMALL (Petites Oaisses de Grives k la Gel&X For this entree have a border of jelly the center being filled with a round piece of wood of the. same diameter and height as the border and covered with white paper. Bone eight thrushes, spread them out on the table and season; fill them with a fine game forcemeat (No. 91), some foies-gras and truffles made into balls. Cover them with a band of paper to hold them in a round shape, then range them on the bottom of a small sautoir covered with fat pork, putting FIG. 473. them quite close to one another; salt over and moisten to nearly their height with a good un- skimmed stock (No. 194a), and cover over with more fat pork; boil up the liquid, then withdraw the saucepan and put on the lid. Cook the boned birds for three-quarters of an hour in a slack oven; they should but simmer, as they only require to be poached, and let cool off in this same liquid. Ua- 740 THE EPICUREAN. wrap, pare, cover by dipping each one singly into a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) thickened on ice; after this sauce is cold, pare the birds and place them in round porcelain cases; dress these on the border. Garnish around the cases with jelly cut in three-sixteenths inch squares. (2450). CELESTINES OF PULLET A LA TALLEYRAND (Celestines de Poularde a la Talleyrand). Cut up into eighth of an inch squares a pound of braised and cold white pullet meat, free of fat and bones, also a quarter of a pound of peeled truffles cut in the same sized squares. With the leg meats from whi'3h the skin, bones and fat have been removed, prepare a puree and dilute it with half a pint of brown chaudfroid (No. 594); press through a tammy into a tin bowl and thicken the preparation on ice, adding to it the truffle and chicken salpicon. Cut some slices of unsmoked red beef tongue three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and these into rounds two and a quarter inches in diameter; cover one of the sides with the preparation, having it well rounded on top, smooth with a knife and let cool off on ice, then mask over with brown chaudfroid. Decorate the surfaces of these with truffles, cover with half-set jelly and dress them in a circle. Cut some medium-sized apples in two, peel and core, then lay them on a buttered baking sheet and sprinkle over with powdered sugar, and let cook for a few moments in a hot oven. When done and cold, use these apples to fill in the center of the circle; garnish around the celestines with chopped jelly and outside of this lay evenly cut jelly croutons (No. 2442). (2451). CHAUDFKOID OF CHICKEN A LA CLARA MORRIS (Ohaudfroid de Poulet a la Clara Morris). Raise the fillets from six medium two-pound chickens; remove the skin and cuticle, pare them carefully into half-hearts; salt over and lay them in a buttered sautoir in such a way that all the pointed ends are in the center; cover with clarified butter and squeeze over the juice of a lemon; place them on the fire to fry without coloring, then drain and put them under a weight to press lightly; pare them again so that they are all the same shape. Bone the second joints, keeping on half of the drumstick bones, remove the sinews and season the meats with salt, pepper and nutmeg; stuff the inside with a quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which mix a quarter as much foies-gras rubbed through a sieve and the same quantity of truffles, tongue and pistachios cut in three-sixteenths inch squares. Enclose the dressing well and sew the skin together to envelop it completely, then place these legs in a sautoir covered with thin slices of fat pork, moisten with mirepoix and white wine stock (No. 419), cover with buttered paper and cook them in a moderate oven. When done, drain off and place them under a weight to get cold, then cover them with either a white or brown chaud- froid sauce (No. 594). Prepare a garnishing composed of cooked channeled mushrooms (No. 118), carrot balls blanched and cooked in white broth (No. 194a), and seasoned with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and fine herbs, and some glazed truffle balls. Dress the chaudfroid around a bread support covered with ravigote butter (No. 583), and fill in the intersections with the garnishing; around lay chopped jelly and small cases filled with asparagus tops covered with green mayonnaise with fine herbs (No. 612). On the top set a round piece of glazed truffle, and around the cases a chain of lozenge-shaped jelly croutons. (2452). OHAUDFROID OF DOE BIRD, PLOVERS, BUSTARDS OR WOODCOCK WITH FUMET (Ohaudfroid de Oourlis, Pluviers, Vanneaux ou Becasses au Fumet). Pick, singe and clean nicely eight doe birds; draw and truss them for roasting like clovers. (No. 2119); put them to roast, remove, and when cold detach the breasts, suppress the skin and cut each breast in three pieces one breastbone and the two wings. Break up the fragments and put them in a saucepan with minced shallots and carrots, parsley, thyme and bay leaf, moisten with white wine, stock (No. 194a), and espagnole sauce (No. 414); boil, skim and simmer for thirty minutes, then strain; remove all the fat and reduce to half-glaze, adding jelly; pour this sauce into a tin basin and leave to cool on ice while stirring unceasingly until it becomes the proper con- sistency. Dip each one of the pieces of bird into this chaudfroid to cover with a thick layer, and when thoroughly cold brush them over with half-set jelly. Decorate a border mold with fanci- ful cuts of truffles and egg-whites, coat it with a thick layer of jelly, and fill with a well-seasoned macedoine (No. 2650) garnishing dressed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); unmold it as soon as it is cold, and fill the center with a pad of rice; on this have a sloping pyramid of rice; cover this over with thick jelly forced through a pocket. Dress the chaudfroids, leaning them against the pyramid and holding them up with sticky jelly forced through a cornet; on top insert a Bellevue hatelet (No. 2526) and place fine ielly croutons around the border; push chopped jelly into all the intersections between the chaudfroids. Proceed the same for plovers, woodcock or bustards. COLD SERVICE. 741 (2453). OHAUDFROID OP YOUNG- GUINEA FOWLS (Chaudfroid de Jeunes Pintades). In order to dress this entrdie solidly it will be found necessary to unmold a border of verj smooth and hard jelly on a dish decorated at the bottom with a few fanciful cuts of truffle and egg-whites; coat over the mold and fill the inside of this border with a foundation made of wood or stearine covered over with white paper and having fastened on to its center a column-shaped wooden support; enlarge this especially toward the bottom with thick chopped-up jelly and keep the dish on ice. Truss three small, clean young guinea fowls; cook them in the pan, keeping them FIG. 474. quite rare and let them get partly cold in their own stock, then drain them off and carve in five pieces; remove the upper breastbones and the fillets, and lay these under a light weight till cold. Suppress also the thick second joint bone, leaving on the drumstick only; cut this much shorter, and place the legs under a weight to cool. Pare the pieces nicely, suppressing all the skin; dip them singly into a blond chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), lifting them out with a large fork, and range them at once on a baking sheet, some distance apart from each other so as to harden the sauce. Now take them off this sheet to cut away the surplus of sauce and dress them pyramidically against the support in the center of the dish, the legs underneath and the fillets and upper breast parts on top, being careful that this pyramid does not incline toward the jelly but leans against the support, which must also be covered with paper. Mask the pieces of chicken with half-set jelly laid on with a brush, and keep the dish on ice for twenty minutes before serving. (2454). OHAUDFKOID OF LAKES (Ohaudfroid de Mauviettes). Bone two dozen clean larks; spread them open on the table and season; prepare a boned game forcemeat (No. 66), season highly and add to it a few spoonfuls of liver baking forcemeat (No. 64), and some of the fried lark intestines, also a few spoonfuls of raw, chopped truffles. Use this forcemeat for filling the birds, and roll them up into balls, sew them up with coarse thread, and cook for twenty minutes in a very little good, reduced stock, and covered over with fat pork; remove from the fire and cool them off in their own stock, then drain, unwrap, and trim each one neatly, and rounded. Take them up one by one, and dip them in a brown chaudfroid (No. 594), thickened properly on ice; lay them at once on a grate, and'let the sauce harden in the ice-box. Pare the larks from any excess of sauce, cover with a light layer of jelly applied with a brush, and when this has become quite cold, dress them in a pyramid form on a cold dish, and surround with more jelly. (2455). OHAUDFEOID OF PARTKIDGES A LA BEATRICE (Ohaudfroid de Perdeaux & la Beatrice). Have four partridges picked, singed, drawn, and well cleaned; remove the legs, bone, suppress the sinews and stuff them with game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91) and cooked fine herbs (No. 385); braise and set them under a weight. Raise the fillets, and saute them in butter without coloring; lay them under a weight also, then pare them as well as the legs into half-hearts, and cover both with brown chaudfroid (No. 594) prepared with game fumet (No. 397) extracted from the car- casses; repeat this operation until the coating of chaudfroid be of a sufficient thickness, then leave to cool, and cover over with another layer of half-set jelly. Dress all the pieces on an empty swan (No. 3597), with an opening on the top or back part of the swan, and surround with small " pains" prepared as follows: Decorate some mousseline molds (No. 2, Fig. 138) with fanciful cuts, either of truffles, tongue, or pistachios dipped in half-set jelly; coat them rather thickly with jelly, and fill with a game "pain " preparation made with game puree of the fillets and parings mixed with chaudfroid, bechamel (No. 593), and well drained, whipped cream; add a small salpicon of truffles and tongue cut in one-eighth of an inch squares, and when the molds are thoroughly cold, invert and range them around the swan; surround with chopped jelly and a border of jelly croutons (No. 2442). 742 THE EPICUREAN. (2456). CHATTDFKOID OP HLLETS OP PHEASANTS (Chaudfroid de Pilets de Faisans), This entree is suitable to be served at a dinner or a buffet. It is dressed on a socle composed of a wooden base, having in its center a support made in tiers, the whole being covered with white paper; on the very top of this there should be a hole intended to receive a hatelet. The platform of this support is ornamented with a small overhanging border made of modeling fat or card- board. Detach the fillets from the breasts of three large, cooked and cold pheasants, leaving the jpper part of the breast the part against the fillet adhering to the frame then cut them up and remove, first the skin and bones, then divide each one into parts on their length, and also divide each of the fillets in three, pare them in equal shapes and sizes and cut them square on one end so as later to be able to dress them standing upright. Pound all the parings of the breast meats with as much cooked foies-gras, then rub through a sieve, season this pulp and set it in a thin iron vessel to dilute with two gills of melted game glaze (No. 398) and four to five gills of brown chaud- froid (No. 594) in such a manner that when the preparation becomes cold it acquires a certain firm consistency. After it is smooth spread it on a baking sheet in even, thin layers, cover them very lightly with cold jelly, using a brush, and range on top the eighteen fillets in a straight line, FIG. 475. one beside the other, pressing them down lightly; now cover them with a thin layer of the same preparation and let get thoroughly cold on ice. After removing it, cut with the tip of a small knife dipped in hot water, following the outlines of the fillets most minutely, then heat the bot- tom of the sheet with a wet cloth so as to be able to detach the cut-out pieces. Take them up one by one to smooth and stand them upright on another sheet on their square ends; let them get cold on ice once more for a quarter of an hour. Remove the fillets one by one and dip them into a fine flowing brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) in such a way that their size does not increase much, then return them to the same sheet just as they were before, (meaning upright), and let the sauce harden. With the same preparation cover the upper breast pieces, being careful that they assume their original size and shape, and smooth the surfaces nicely. When thoroughly hard dip these pieces into the same chaudfroid sauce to cover lightly and not allowing them to become misshapen. After the chaudfroid sauce is quite hard, take the fillets one by one and cut away the excess of sauce, then dress them at once upright on the lower tier, or more properly speaking on the wooden foundation (therefore around the central support); now dress the upper breast parts, also upright on the upper tier, leaning them against the support, and brush over lightly with a brush dipped in jelly both fillets and the others; surround the base with a cord of jelly pushed through a cornet so as to maintain the meats level, and also surround this base with chopped jelly, laying over a chain of small paper cases filled with truffles masked in chaudfroid. On the extreme top of the support stick a small hatelet into the hole made for the purpose. Keep the entree cold till needed. (2457). OHAUDFBOID OF PEAIEIE HEN GROUSE (Ohaudfroid de Poule de Prairie Te~tras), Prepare a fine garnishing composed of large cooked cocks'-combs, poached chicken kidneys, round truffles and mushroom heads; glaze the truffles with a thin layer of brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), the combs and kidneys remaining in their natural state glazed with half-set jelly. Cut the breasts of two cold roast pheasants into quarter of an inch thick slices, suppressing the skin; COLD SERVICE. 743 have them well pared and of uniform size, dip each one separately in brown chaudfroid, and range them at once on a baking sheet, keeping them somewhat apart; let the sauce harden on ice. In- crust a large dome-shaped mold in ice, coat it over with an eighth of an inch thick layer of jelly, and when this is set dress on to the bottom and around the mold the prettiest pieces, intermin- gling them with the garnishings; fill up the mold with some half-set jelly. One hour after dip the mold in hot water, wipe dry and turn the chaudfroid over on a dish foundation covered with white paper; surround with small crimped paper cases, each one containing a small truffle dipped in brown chaudfroid. Fasten one garnished hatelet in the center of the dome, lay chopped jelly all around, and jelly croutons around this, (2458), OHAUDFROID OP PULLET, PLAIN (Ohaudfroid de Poularde, Simple). Draw, clean arid truss two pullets of two pounds each as for an entree (No. 178); put them into a saucepan and cover with stock (No. 194a), adding a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; boil, skim and cook slowly on the side of the fire until done, then transfer them to a vessel and pour the stock over; let get partly cold and drain off to cut into pieces, first remov- ing the two legs and from them suppressing the second joint bones, retaining only the drum- stick bones to answer for holding the frill; put these legs under the pressure of a weight, then begin to cut the fillets from the breast, leaving on a piece of the bone with the breast meat; pare the whole well free of all skin and sinews; dip all the pieces into a partly cold white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), lifting them out with a large fork to range on top of a baking sheet, or else a heavy sheet of tin, one beside the other but without touching; a grate may be used. Set on ice to harden the sauce, then remove each piece and pare, trimming off the surplus chaudfroid sauce and giving them a handsome shape. Dress in a pyramid and cover the chaudfroid with half-set jelly applied with a brush; keep on ice for twenty minutes, then trim the pinion bones and drum- sticks with fancy paper frills (No. 10) and decorate the dish and chickens with chopped jelly and jelly croutons. (2459). OHAUDFROID OF QUAILS A LA BAUDY (Ohaudfroid de Cailles a la Bandy). This entree is dressed on a wooden foundation covered with white paper, and bordered on the outside edge with small beads of butter forced through a cornet. It has a paper-covered support in the center two to three inches in diameter and about the same height as the quails. Singe and bone eight fresh quails, leaving on the thighs, season the insides and fill the empty space with a layer of fine galantine forcemeat (No. 66), mingled with f oies-gras and truffles cut in small dice, also a piece of FIG. 476. raw truffle in each; all of these to be properly seasoned; cover over with another layer of the force- meat and bring the two sides together so that the quails retain their original shape, then sew them up. Truss the thighs, and tie each bird up in a separate piece of muslin. Range the quails in a deep sautoir lined with fat pork, moisten to their height with a good stock (No. 194a) and boil up the liquid, then withdraw it to a slower fire and cook the quails for twenty to thirty minutes while covered, and let them get partly cold in their stock. Drain, unwrap, and tie them up tighter in the same cloths to keep them in shape, and when quite cold cut each one lengthwise in two-, fasten the two halves together with a small wooden skewer, and cover the quails with a white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596). When the sauce becomes quite cold, stick one of the reserved legs in each half bird, and withdraw the skewer. Dress these boned quails almost upright on the foundation that is on the dish, leaning them against the support; garnish the center of this with chopped jelly, and surround the base of the bottom with small crimped paper cases filled with glazed truffles. 744 TME EPICUREAN. (2460). OHAUDFROID OF FILLETS OF REDHEAD DUCK AND VENISON (Chaudfroid de Filets de Canard Tete Rouge et de Venaison). Raise the fillets from five redhead ducks, without the wings or minions; pare them into half- hearts; season and saute iti clarified butter, keeping them rare; then drain and cool off under a light weight between two pieces of buttered paper; remove the skin, pare them again to have all alike, and dip in a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) reduced with game fumet (No. 397), properly thickened on ice; range them at some distance apart on a baking sheet to harden the sauce; deco- rate with ornaments of truffles dipped in jelly, and coat the whole in half-set jelly. Cut ten pieces of very red beef tongue, not too thick, but of the same shape and size as the fillets; lay a duck fillet on each piece of tongue, making it adhere, and let get cold. Dress these upright against a vegeta- ble salad cut in small dice, and thickened with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), then molded in a small pyramidical mold. Surround the bottom with a thick rope of jelly pushed through a pocket. On the top of the pyramid place a cluster of jelly cut in small squares. Chaudfroid of. Venison. Cut a fillet of venison into slices; dip them in a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) properly thickened on ice, then lay to cool on a baking sheet; when cold, pare and dress in a circle; glaze over with jelly, fill the center with chopped jelly, and outside with a border ^f jelly croutons. (2461). OHAUDFROID OF SNIPE IN PYRAMID (Chaudfroid de B^cassines en Buisson). Dress this entree on a wooden dish bottom, composed of three shelves, all to be covered with white paper. Bone fifteen to eighteen small snipe, keeping the heads and a part of the intestines aside, the latter to be cooked in melted butter and pressed through a sieve. Scald the heads, pick out the eyes, replace them with a little forcemeat and a round of truffle to imitate the original; place in the oven to poach the forcemeat. Spread the snipe out on the table, season and cover with a layer of game galantine forcemeat (No. 66). Put in the center of each one a piece of raw foies-gras and a piece of cooked truffle, cover with another layer of the forcemeat, then roll the boned snipe into ball shapes. Cover each one with a separate piece of buttered paper and range them FIG. 477. in a narrow sautoir lined with fat pork; moisten to their height with good stock (No. 194a)and cover with more of the pork, then put on the lid and let cook slowly for twenty-five minutes; leave them to cool in their own stock. Unwrap the snipe, pare and shape them properly and fill with foies-gras any crevices that may have been caused by the cooking. Pare them all alike and of a nice shape. Range them at once on a small baking sheet and put aside in a cool place for a quarter of an hour; take them up one by one and dip them in a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) thickened on ice so that they are entirely covered, and return them immediately to the sheet to drain off the sauce, and keep cold for another half hour, then pare them once more of any surplus of sauce. At the last moment force some sticky chopped jelly through a pocket between the shelves, dress the snipe over, letting them form into a pyramid, and between each one dress one of the heads, and glaze it over with a brush. Push a thick rope of chopped jelly around the pyramid on the bottom of the dish and surround this with fine croutons. Cover the snipe lightly with jelly applied with a brush, so as to render them glossy. (2462). OHAUDFROID OF TURKEY A LA PERIGORD (Chaudfroid de Dinde a la P4rigord). Braise and put away to cool a fine six to eight-pound turkey; remove the fillets, free them from skin and sinews, and cut each one into six pieces, making them as long as possible; trim them all the same shape and size, and cover over one side with a thin layer of foies-gras taken from a COLD SERVICE. 745 terrine, pounded and rubbed through a sieve; let get quite cold. Prepare a chaudfroid with a quart of reduced veloute sauce (No. 415) and the braise stock, strained, skimmed and reduced to a pint, with as much aspic jelly (No. 103) added. Let the chaudfroid be cold enough to cover the meat well. Then dip the pieces one by one into it and remove them with a fork, placing one beside the other on a tray or on a grate. Let get cold, then cover them once more, exactly the same as before, and finish by covering with half-set jelly. Dress them on the bottom of a dish around a support, both the foundation and support being made of tin, having a hole in the summit and covered with noodle paste (No. 142), dried in the open air and glazed over with game glaze (No. 398). Decorate all around with small glazed truffles set in small white crimped paper cases. Insert into the top of the support a tasteful hatelet ornamented with a fine glazed truffle and a cock's- comb. (2463). CHICKENS EOARLATE A LA DERENNE (Poulets Ecarlate a la Derenne). This piece is dressed on an oval wooden bottom covered with white paper and fastened on a long dish, having in the center a slightly conical-shaped wooden support also covered with paper and a hole bored in the top to hold a hatelet. Cook in water four large calves' tongues or small red beef tongues; drain and cool under a weight. Break the breast bone of four small, singed and cleaned chickens, then remove the bone and fill up the empty space with galantine forcemeat (No. 65) mixed with truffles and cooked foies-gras cut in dice; then sew up the breast skin on the back. Truss these chickens with the legs bent under the skin, lard the tops and wrap each one in a smalJ FIG. 478. piece of fine muslin without tightening them too much; cook for one hour in stock (No. 194a), but very slowly, so as not to spoil their shape, then let get very cold, drain and untruss. Detach the breasts from the back part of the chicken and cut them up in slices, then once across, keeping them in good shape, and return them to their original places. Lay the chickens on a grater, cover over with white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), properly thickened, and let it get cold. Dress the chickens upright on the oval foundation laid on the dish, leaning them against the support and alternating each one with a tongue previously pared, skinned and cut in lengths, but returned to the original position, then glazed over with a brush. Surround the chickens on the base with a piping of chopped thick jelly pushed through a cornet and between every tongue and chicken lay a well-rounded peeled truffle cooked in white wine and glazed over with a brush. Lay all around the outside of the foundation triangular crusts of very clear jelly, and fasten a hatelet into the top garnished with jelly and a peeled truffle. It is advisable to serve this dish with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) in a separate sauce-boat. (2464). CHICKEN FILLETS A LA MIREBEL (Filets de Poulet a la Mirebel). Raise and pare twelve chicken breasts; remove the minion fillets and the skin from the larger ones as well as the pellicle covering the minions and the sinews. Streak half of the minion fillets with truffles and the other half with red beef tongue, then shape them like turbans; lay them on a buttered baking sheet and place in the oven for a few minutes to poach; remove and set under a light weight until cold. Cover with half-set jelly and fill the interiors with a puree of foies-gras pushed in through a cornet, and on top of each lay a small, very white, cooked channeled mush- room (No. 118) covered with half-set jelly. Poach the larger fillets in butter and lemon juice, lay them under a weight and pare again into half-hearts, cover over with jelly and decorate with fanciful 746 THE EPICUREAN. star-shaped cuts of truffles and tongue dipped in half-set jelly. For this use a round mold two and a quarter inches in diameter, and one-eighth of an inch deep. Cut and then arrange in the pieces of truffle and tongue as shown in Fig. 479, first dipping them in half -set jelly; when this is hard, unmold and place these stars on the largest part of the fillet and cover the whole with half-cold jelly. (These stars are used for lamb cutlets, Leverrier.) Fill the basin of a dish with chopped jelly; after the large fillets are cold decorate with favor frills (No. 10) and dress them in a circle; surround with more chopped jelly and croutons, laying the minion fillets around. Cut up some let- tuce hearts, season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, mix thoroughly, drain and place this salad in the center of the dish; serve a vinaigrette mayonnaise sepai'ately. (2465). CHICKEN BREASTS A LA RENAISSANCE (Filets de Poulet a la Renaissance). Pare ten chicken breasts without the minion fillets; beat them thin, then season and poach in clari- fied butter and the juice of a lemon laid in a sautoir, keeping them rare; drain and range them on a tray, cover with a buttered paper and set a light weight on top until they become cold. Streak the minion fillets with slices of truffles and shape them into rings; place them in a buttered sautoir and cover with buttered paper; poach in a slack oven, drain them, and when cold cover over with half-set jelly. Drain off all the butter from the pared breasts and take them up one by one with a broad fork, dip five of them into a white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), and range them at once on a tray, keeping them slightly apart, and then put it on the ice to harden the sauce. Dissolve the re- mainder of the sauce in a bain-marie and add to it a puree of ravigote herbs (No. 623) pounded without any butter, but having two spoonfuls of the cold chaudfroid sauce added; strain and color with a little spinach green (No. 37). Stir this sauce on ice until of the proper thickness, and with it cover the other five fillets, the same as the first ones, and when the sauce has become cold pare off all the superfluous sauce around, then dress all these breasts in a crown-shape on a thick layer of jelly set on the dish. In the center of this crown range a pyramid of large Spanish olives stuffed with a puree of foies-gras mingled with brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594); around dress the streaked minion fillets and in the center of each lay a small round glazed truffle. (2466), CHICKEN BREASTS A LA GALLIER (Filets de Foulef a la Gallier). Trim a rice socle eight inches in diameter and two inches high. Remove the sinews well from twelve chicken breasts, suppress the skin and pare nicely, then fry them white in clarified butter and lemon juice; season with salt, drain, and lay them under a light weight; trim them into half-hearts, and split them in two through their thickness; then cover one part of each with foies-gras taken from a terrine, pounded and rubbed through a sieve, and place the other part on top of this, press- ing one on the other lightly and evenly. Cover half of these double fillets with a ravigote chaudfroid (No. 595), and when it is cold brush over with partly solidified jelly; decorate the others with truffles, and cover also with partly cold jelly. When ccld cut away the surplus of chaudfroid and jelly and ornament the pointed ends with favor frills (No. 10). Dress the fillets in a circle on the socle, intercalating the two kinds, having first one covered with chaudfroid, then one covered with jelly; fill up the inside with some well-seasoned vegetable macedoine (No. 2650) thickened with a little jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); decorate around the socle with chopped jelly and croutons of jelly; on top of the macedoine lay round pieces of glazed black truffle. On the edge of the socle around the fillet have a border of stuffed mushrooms covered with chaudfroid (see No. 2517). (2467). CHICKEN FRICASSEE -CHAUDFROID (Fricassee de Poulet-Chaudfroid). Prepare a fricassee with a good, large chicken the same as for fricassee of chicken (No. 1861), add two dozen large mushroom heads turned and channeled (No. 118). Remove the pieces of chicken singly and suppress all the skin and most of the bone, then range them on a tray; remove the mushrooms and set them aside to get cold; strain the sauce into a small saucepan without thickening it with eggs, and let get cold while stirring, incorporating into it slowly a few spoonfuls of cold jelly, then thicken it slightly on ice, stirring it the same as a chaud- froid sauce. Take up the pieces of chicken with a fork, and immerse them thoroughly in the sauce, not having it too thick; do the same with the mushrooms, and leave to drain well; dress them as quickly as each piece is done in a pyramid form on a very cold dish; cover with half-set jelly, using a brush for the purpose, and dress the mushrooms around the chickens, surrounding these with a border of jelly pushed through a cornet. Keep the dish for one-quarter of an hour in the ice-box before serving. COLD SERVICE. 747 (2468). CHICKENS SAUTED A LA SHERMAN (Poulets Sautes a la Sherman). Incrust a fancy border mold in chopped ice, having it decorated with truffles and egg-white; coat the decoration with a thick layer of jelly and fill the center with slices of tongue, mushrooms, ham and truffles; pour the sauce obtained from the chicken over, and let get cold, then mask with a thick layer of jelly to finish filling the mold; have this get quite hard. Cut up four young chickens, each weighing a pound and a half; they must be well drawn, singed and cleaned; take four pieces from each, namely, two wings and two legs, pare and saute in butter to a fine color; drain off the butter when done and detach the glaze with a little Madeira wine and espag- nole sauce (No. 414); when the whole is reduced to perfection mix in an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little broth (No. 194a); this sauce when cold should be of the consistency of a lightly thickened chaudf roid. Take out the chickens, strain the sauce through a tammy, remove a part of it, and into it mix some unsmoked red beef tongue, mushrooms, truffles and lean cooked ham, all cut in eighth of an inch thick by one and a quarter to one and a half inches in diameter slices, adding the chicken to the remainder of the sauce. Unmold the border, and when the chicken has cooled in its sauce dress it inside the border, and finish covering with the nearly cold sauce. Garnish around with a border of jelly croutons (No. 2442). Keep the dish in the ice-box, and cover entirely with the nearly cold jelly applied with a brush. Decorate with fancy paper frills (No. 10), then serve. (2469). CHICKEN BOASTED WITH JELLY, CUT UP AND GAKNISHED WITH TONGUE (Poulet Roti a la Gelee, De'conpe' et Garni de Langne de Boeuf). Roasted with Jelly. Select a fine two pound and a half to three pound chicken; it must be very tender; draw, singe and free it of all the pin feathers, then truss it to roast (No. 179); cover with a bard of thin fat pork, then roast it on the spit, basting it frequently, and when done and of a fine color, remove and let it get cold. Untruss and glaze with chicken glaze (No. 397), and surround it with chopped jelly and jelly croutons, cut either into triangles, oblongs, lozenges, ate. Cut up and Garnished with Salted Unsmoked Beef Tongue. After the chicken has been cooked and is cold, the same as for the above, cut it up into five pieces, pare them nicely and glaze over. Cut from the thick part of a tongue some slices three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; pare them into oblongs three inches long by one and three-quarters wide, and cover well with half- set jelly. Dress the chicken around an upright conical support placed in the middle of a dish, having it covered with green butter (No. 583); decorate around with chopped jelly, and over this place the oblongs of tongue in a circle, one overlapping the other. On top of the support have some ornamental piece, either a figure or a cup filled with jelly cut in squares of an eighth of an, inch. This dish can be accompanied by a separate remoulade sauce (No. 624). (2470), CREAM OP LOBSTER (Creme de Homard), Fasten a wooden paper-covered foundation on a dish, having in its center a flat support two inches high, forming a step with a hole in the top. Decorate the bottom and interior of ten large timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137) with gherkins or truffles dipped in half-set jelly, coat the molds lightly with jelly, turning them around on ice. Suppress the shells from the tails and claws of FIG. 480. three small cooked lobsters, split the claws in two lengthwise and readjust them with half-set jelly to their original shape; keep them on ice. Cut up the tail meats and pound them with a few spoon- fuls of good veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom liquor, and mix in two spoonfuls of the creamy parts from the bodies, also a dash of cayenne pepper; pass the whole through a tammy and pour the preparation into a vessel to smooth while stirring it vigorously with a spoon; incorporate 748 THE EPICUREAN. into it slowly four gills of oil, two spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar and two gills of aspic jelly (No. 103); beat the preparation on ice to thicken, then mix in at once the value of three or four gills of unsweetened whipped cream. When finished, fill the small molds with this preparation and let it harden on ice; at the last moment dip each mold separately into hot water, wipe them off quickly and invert them on the bottom of the dish around the support; cover this latter with a coat of thick chopped jelly and stick an untrimmed hatelet in the hole on top; now dress the lobster claws upright in a triangle against the hatelet, placed there with the purpose of holding them up, and fasten them on with sticky jelly; brush them over with half -set jelly and surround the base with green parsley leaves or water cress. Arrange around the dish small, even triangles of jelly, cutting off the tips, and serve with mayonnaise sauce (No. (2471). OUTLETS OP LAMB, IMPEKIAL (Cotelettes d'Agneau a rimpenale). Trim eight to ten lamb cutlets taken from the rib near the loin of two racks, four from each rack; suppress the chine bone and fibrous skin from the rib bones, pare them, leaving only the kernel on; beat this lightly, replace the fat by lamb quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) so as .to give them their original shape, season and fry on both sides in butter; when done drain on a baking sheet and cover with buttered paper, then set them under a light weight to cool; pare them once more. Put into a saucepan a few spoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549), strained through a tammy, and dilute it slowly with brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594); thicken this lightly on ice, remove and dip the cutlets into it one by one, covering them entirely; range them at once on a tray and keep in a cool place to harden the sauce. Detach the cutlets from the sheet, free them of all surplus sauce and trim the handles with fancy favor frills (No. 10); dress in a circle, filling the center with whole asparagus tops seasoned with salt and pepper and dressed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); cover the tops of the asparagus with glazed truffles cut in slices, surround the meats with chopped jelly and place around a border of jelly croutons. (2472), OUTLETS OF LAMBS' KERNELS IN BELLEVUE (Ootelettes de Noix d'Agneau en Bellevue). Pare and saute" twelve lamb cutlets; place them under a lightweight and cut away the kernels; cover these with a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). Decorate an aspic mold and fill it with layers of the kernels and jelly alternated and leave for two hours on ice; then unmold, dress on a dish bottom an inch and a half thick and one inch in diameter larger than the aspic and surround with chopped jelly and jelly croutons. Place a large Bellevue hatelet (No. 2526) in the center. (2473), OUTLETS OF LAMB WITH ASPIO (Ootelettes d'Agneau a 1'Aspic). Procure twelve cutlets cut from the covered ribs of a spring lamb and nicely pared; lard them with lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), made of veal udder, truffles and red beef tongue. Line a sautoir with slices of fat pork, place the cutlets over and moisten with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); set it on the fire and at the first boii push it into the oven. When done drain and cool off under a weight, pare once more so that the lardons can be seen well. Decorate an aspic mold, range the cutlets inside of it in a circle, placing a crouton of tongue between each one, and pour in sufficient jelly to fill the mold to within a quarter from the top; after this has become firm finish filling the mold with jelly and lay it aside on ice for two hours. When prepared to serve un- mold the aspic on a dish, having the basin covered with very firm jelly, or on a small, low, decorated socle. Fill the center with a blanquette of lamb sweetbreads prepared with truffles, and surround the whole with chopped jelly and croutons. (2474). OUTLETS OF LAMBS' KERNELS WITH MAYONNAISE (Ootelettes de Noix d'Agneau k la Mayonnaise). Fry twelve fine spring lamb chops; press them under a weight and cut out all the parts except the kernels; pare and replace the trimmings by pate de foies-gras and dip them into a jellied mayon- naise (No. 613) so as to cover them entirely with a thick layer of it. Range some cut-up lettuce leaves on a dish, reserving the hearts for decorating; around the lettuce dress the kernels of lamb and decorate the whole with the lettuce hearts, hard-boiled eggs, anchovies, olives, etc. ; surround the edge of the dish with chopped jelly and croutons of the same. COLD SERVICE. 749 (2475). OUTLETS OP LAMB WITH TOMATOED CHAUDFROID (Ootelettes d'Agneau an Ohaud- froid Tomat6). Fry in butter a dozen fine short-handled spring-lamb cutlets; put some blond chaudfroid sauce (No. 596) into a saucepan and mix in with it a few spoonfuls of tomato puree (No. 730), so that it acquires a light red tint; thicken it by putting the saucepan on ice and moving constantly with a spoon, and when thick dip the cutlets in so as to have them well covered. Kange them at once on a baking sheet slightly apart, but all on the same side, and allow the same to harden in a cool place; detach them, pare and decorate the kernels with a rosette formed of pickled gherkin and truffles dipped into half-set jelly; cover the whole with a coating of jelly, cool, then dress in a circle on a dish, having the handle bones under and the kernels on top; fill the center with chopped jelly. (2476). OUTLETS OF LOBSTER A LA LOWERY (Ootelettes de Homard a la Lowery), Chop up three hard-boiled eggs, the whites and yolks separately, also some pistachios. In- crust a cylindrical mold in ice; divide the bottom into six even parts with sticks of truffles dipped in half-set jelly and in one of these put the white, in another the yellow, and in a third the green; repeat, then pour over a little jelly, and when hard add sufficient to have it three-eighths of an inch thick; over this lay in a circle some lobster escalops covered with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), one overlapping the other; pour more jelly over, and continue this process until the mold is full; leave it on ice to get thoroughly cold, invert it on a dish and surround with cutlets prepared as follows: Have some bottomless cutlet molds; lay them on sheets of oiled paper, and cover the bottom of each one with a bed of jellied mayonnaise having raw fine herbs added to it; on top place small, wall- seasoned slices of lobster, also sliced truffles, and cover with a little white jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), strewing the whole with finely chopped truffles; when very cold unmold and dress them in a circle around the aspic; trim the thin ends with a fancy favor frill (No. 10), and place a border of stuffed olives (No. 695) around the cutlets, and chopped jelly and croutons outside the whole. (2477). OUTLETS OF PHEASANT IN OHAUDFROID (Ohaudfroid de Ootelettes de Faisan). The accompanying drawing, Fig. 481, is the model of a mold in which the cutlet preparation is hardened; this is made of thick tin, open on both ends, but it can be closed by covers that fit on the mold itself. This mold when closed measures three inches in height and two in width, it being shaped like a half-heart, but for preparing a large quantity double molds can be em- Fio. 481. ployed, they having almost a whole heart -shapa appearance; if these are used, after the prepara- tion is hardened and unmolded, it is to be cut in two through the center from the top to the bottom and each half made into a single cutlet; in this way there will be sufficient of them to dress three or four dishes. With the breast meat cut from a large cold roasted pheasant, an equal amount of cooked foies-gras, one or two gills of melted game glaze (No. 398), and two or three gills of brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 397), make a preparation, and when smooth and of a desired consistency mix in with it a fine salpicon of cooked foies-gras and truffles, half of each; then stir it on ice to thicken sufficiently so that the truffles and livers do not fall to the bottom. Pour it into the cutlet mold, laying on ice, and wrapping the mold in a sheet of paper imbed it completely in pounded ice and keep it thus for five or six hours. At the expi- ration of this time dip the mold in warm water to unmold the preparation, and then cut it at once into two parts, from top to bottom; smooth the surfaces well and keep for a quarter of an hour on ice. After removing them, divide across in slices each three-eighths of an inch in thickness, and take these up one by one on a broad fork and dip in some brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) properly 750 THE EPICUREAN. thickened; drain it off well and range the cutlets on a cold baking sheet slightly apart. Lay this on ice for half an hour to harden the sauce; detach the cutlets from the sheet and pare off any surplus of FIG. 482. sauce, and stick a pretty favor frill (No. 10) into each; dress them in a close circle on a foundation placed on a dish and covered over with paper; fill in the empty space in the circle merely with chopped jelly and surround the foundation with large croutons of jelly. Keep the dish in the ice-box until needed. (2478). VEAL OUTLETS A L'ANACKEON (Ootelettes de Veau a TAnacrgon). Lard some veal cutlets cut from a rack with tongue and fat pork, a half of each; braise or poeler them while basting frequently, then lay them under a weight to reduce to five-eighths of an inch in thickness; pare neatly and cover over with cream forcemeat (No. 75), and decorate with a hand- some truffle rosette; range a buttered paper on top of each and poach in a slack oven; when cold mask the surfaces with half-set jelly and dress flat in a circle, filling the center with an asparagus salad (No. 2621); surround with chopped jelly and croutons. (2479). OUTLETS OF WOODCOCK, PONIATOWSKI (Cotelettes de Brasses, a la Poniatowski). Dress this cold entree on a wooden foundation covered with noodle paste (No. 142), fastening it on to a dish; decorate the sides of the foundation, and place a support in the center surmounted by a small fancy tin vase, both covered the same as the foundation; the top of the base is flat and closed; it is simply to be dressed with three fresh woodcock heads with feathers, and held in shape, arranged in a triangle; surround their base with chopped jelly and a chain of truffle balls. FIG. 483. Cut the meats of three cooked, cold woodcock into a fine montglas, put this in a saucepan with half as much cooked foies-gras, and as many truffles cut exactly like the meats; combine this montglas with some good, partly warm, succulent brown chaudfroid (No. 594), reduced with game fumet (No. 397); smooth the preparation and use it to fill twelve to fourteen tin cutlet-shaped molds brushed over with jelly; equalize the tops and leave to cool one hour on ice. Dip these cutlets in hot water, unmold on a baking sheet and smooth the surfaces once more; lift them up one by one, dip into a good brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) slightly thickened on ice, and return them at once to the sheet to have this sauce get thoroughly cold on ice. Surround the base of the support with a very thick layer of chopped, sticky jelly, pushed on through a pocket. At the last moment detach the cutlets from the sheet, pare neatly, fasten a small fancy favor frill (No. 10) in each, and dress them in a circle around the support on the foundation; coat with jelly so as to give them a brilliant appearance. COLD SERVICE. 751 (2480). OUTLETS OF WOODCOCK A LA SARAH BERNHARDT (Ootelettes de Brasses a la Sarah Bemhardt). Take seven or eight fresh round Perigord truffles, all of equal size and very clean; peel, salt and cook them for seven or eight minutes in a little Madeira wine and leave them to cool off in this liquid. Kemove all the meats from three woodcock roasted rare, keeping aside three or four of the fillets; pound the remainder of the meats with a part of the cooked intestines and three- quarters as much cooked foies-gras; season and rub through a sieve; put this puree into a vessel and beat it up for two minutes with a spoon, incorporating into it slowly four spoonfuls of good melted game glaze (No. 398) and one gill of liquid brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) reduced with game fumet (No. 397) and essence of truffles (No. 395); when all is well mingled add gradually to the preparation two and a half ounces of fresh butter, wiped and divided into small pats; the whole should now be very smooth without being frothy. Drain the truffles, stand them upright on a cloth to mark the tops with a tube from a column box an inch in diameter; remove this marked piece and empty the truffles out with a vegetable spoon; pound these removed pieces with as much cooked foies-gras, season the preparation and lay it in a bowl to beat up for a few moments so as to have it smooth. Prepare a montglas with half of the woodcock fillets laid aside, and an equal quantity of red beef tongue mingled with a little good reduced and thick Madeira sauce (No. 413). Moisten with a brush dipped in cold jelly a dozen tin cutlet-shaped molds, cover the bottoms and sides with the woodcock preparation, leaving an empty space in the center; fill this up with some of the cold montglas; cover with more of the preparation and smooth it at once; keep the molds for one hour on ice, then unmold them and cover with a layer of brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). Put a few spoonfuls of this chaudfroid sauce into a vessel, thicken it while stirring on ice and mix with it the remainder of the woodcock fillets cut in small dice and twice as much cooked foies-gras cut the same; use this preparation for stuffing the emptied truffles; range them as soon as done on a small baking sheet and close the opening with a round piece of cooked foies- gras cut out with the same tube used for marking the truffles; glaze over the whole with a brush; keep this baking sheet on ice for half an hour. Harden a thick layer of jelly on a dish and on top of it set a narrow wooden foundation covered with white paper; on this dress the truffles piled in a pyramidical form, then push chopped jelly through a cornet into all the intersections, as well as around the truffles, to maintain them in position. Around this board dress the cutlets in a circle after inserting a fancy favor frill (No. 10) into each. (2481). LOBSTER DOME GARNISHED WITH SMALL OASES (Dome de Homard Garni de Petites Pound the cooked meat of two or three lobster tails with a spoonful of prepared red pepper (No. 168), two spoonfuls of bechamel (No. 409), and a piece of lobster butter (No. 580); pass the whole through a sieve and then set it in a vessel to mix with an equal quantity of white chaud- froid sauce (No. 596) and two gills of mayonnaise (No. 606). Mix in with this preparation the claw meat cut in small dice. Incrust a dome-shaped mold wider than its height on ice; decorate the top and sides with fanciful cuts of gherkins, black truffles, lobster coral, tarragon leaves and red shrimp tails split in two, being careful to dip each separate decoration in half-set jelly. Harden a layer of jelly on the bottom of the mold, and when cold set another dome-shaped mold inside of it, having it tilled with pounded ice, but half an inch narrower than the first one; pour some half-set jelly between the intersections of the two molds to fill up the empty space entirely, and as soon as this is hard remove the smaller mold, after replacing the ice by warm water. Thicken the lobster prep- aration on ice while stirring, and pour into it two spoonfuls of good tarragon vinegar and some blanched cut-up tarragon leaves; pour all this into the empty coated mold and let rest for one hour. Unmold the dome on to a socle of carved rice two inches high (see Fig. 9a), having it round, and surround its base with the small cases, as described herewith: Put a dozen small china cases on ice to have thoroughly cold. Split across in two the meats of four or five lobster claws; cut these same meats into small rounds with a tin tube, having them half an inch in diameter and an eighth of an inch thick; lay them in a small vessel with half the quantity of rounds of truffles and two or three spoonfuls of rounds of gherkin, all being of the same size as the lobster; season with salt, a dash of cayenne, oil and vinegar, leaving them to macerate from twelve to fifteen minutes. Drain off the seasoning and thicken it with blond chaudfroid sauce, made by mixing white and brown chaudfroid, mingled with two spoonfuls of mayonnaise (No. 606) and a pinch of chopped tarragon leaves. Fill the cases with this preparation, covering the tops with a layer of mayon- naise finished with tarragon vinegar. 752 THE EPICUREAN. (2482), DUCKLING, WITH SPANISH OLIVES (Qaneton aux Olives d'Espagne). Singe, draw and clean a duckling, then bone it from the ribs. Mix in a vessel equal quantities of liver baking forcemeat (No. 64) and chicken forcemeat (No. 73); add two spoonfuls of tomato puree (No. 730) and a large salpicon of cooked foies-gras. With this dressing fill the body and breast of the duckling where the pouch was; sew up the skin underneath, and truss it with the legs thrust inside as for an entree (No. 178); lard over and wrap it in thin muslin, then cook slowly for one hour in some stock (No. 194a). Drain off the duckling, tighten the cloth and let get cold, after unwrapping and untrussing it; detach the breast, keeping it whole, and cut it into slices without misshaping it; then return it to its original place. Wipe the duckling well, and cut a piece from underneath so that it will stand plumb, and set it on a grate; cover it over with some excellent brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), finished with tomato sauce (No. 549) and reduced with Madeira wine. After this sauce has drained off well keep the duckling for ten minutes in the ice-box; remove and dress it on a thick layer of jelly that has stiffened on a dish, and surround both sides and front with a garnishing of large Spanish olives, stuffed with foies-gras and covered with brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). (2483). FOIES-GEAS IN BOEDER (Foies-Gras en Bordure). Open a terrine of foies-gras; suppress all the top fat and keep on ice for two or three hours. Fill a fancy border mold (Fig. 470) with fine cold aspic jelly (No. 103), and put it on ice for one hour. Cut up the contents of the terrine with a thin steel spoon the size and shape of a tablespoon, dipping it each time into warm water; should this cutting be neatly done the pieces will each acquire the shape of the spoon, rounded lightly; lay all of these as fast as they are done on a cold baking sheet, one beside the other, repairing those that may have been broken during the process, and put them away on ice for a quarter of an hour. Just when prepared to serve dip the border mold into warm water, wipe neatly, and invert the mold on a cold dish, having a wooden or tin foundation in the center exactly the same size and covered with white paper; on this foundation dress the pieces of foies-gras pyramidically, placing the poorest looking ones underneath, and piling the remainder into a steep pyramid. (2484). FOIES-GEAS IN OKADLE, TO BE OUT IN SLICES (Foies-Gras en Berceau, pour etre Coupe" en Tranches). Prepare one pound and a half of baking forcemeat (No. 64); let this forcemeat become quite cold, then pound and rub it through a sieve. Chop up two pounds of lean veal with a pound and a quarter of fresh fat pork, and pound this to a pulp also; season and lay it in a bowl to mix with three or four raw, chopped truffles, and add liver baking forcemeat. Butter cradle-shaped molds, and cover the insides with a thin layer of the forcemeat, leaving an empty space in the center; fill up this vacancy with large strips of raw foies-gras, season and intermingle them with forcemeat and cut- up raw truffles; cover this over with more of the forcemeat and with slices of fat pork. Lay the mold on a raised-edge baking sheet containing a little water, push it into a slack oven and bake for an hour and a quarter; when removed, cool under the pressure of a slight weight. These pies are useful for cutting up in slices. (2485a). GALANTINE OF CHICKEN (Galantine de Poulet). Singe one large chicken, suppress the neck and drumsticks, also the pinion bones; split it in two down the back and bone it entirely. Spread the chicken out on a table, remove part of the breast meats and lay them on the skin where there is no meat. Also remove the meat from the FIG. 484. legs, suppress the sinews and chop them up and place in a vessel; also chop up three-quarters of a pound of lean veal and an equal amount of fresh fat pork and add it to the legs; add a quarter of a pound of blanched fat pork, cut in half-inch squares, and an equal quantity of cooked red beef tongue; add a few quartered truffles and a few peeled pistachios; season and pour over a few spoon- COLD SERVICE. 753 fuls of Madeira wine. Season the inside of the chicken, fill it with the contents of the bowl, alter- nating with the forcemeat, then roll the boned chicken into an oblong shape, sew it up and wrap it in a cloth, tightening it well, then tie it at the two ends and in the center. Place it in a long saucepan with the broken-up bones and two or three calves' feet; moisten liberally with stock (No. 194a) and boil while skimming; cook the boned chicken slowly for an hour and a half, then drain; ten minutes later unwrap, remove the thread and wrap it up once more in the same cloth, after it has been well washed, tying it this time with five rows of string two at the ends, one in the center, and two between; let cool off under a light weight for six hours. After it is finally un- wrapped, pare and glaze with white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596) so as to be able to decorate with truffles; cool and cover with a layer of partly cold jelly, dress on a small rice or hominy socle (Fig. 9a), and surround with chopped jelly and croutons (No. 2442^ prepared with the galantine stock itself. (2485W. TEUTFLE DEOOKATIONS (Ornements en Truffes). For these decorations select large, mellow, sound black marbled truffles; cut them into thin slices a sixteenth of an inch thick, and arrange them as in shown Fig. 485. These truffle decorations are taken up with a metal needle, then dipped into half-set jelly, and applied to the object required to be decorated, the principal aim being to dispose them very regularly, FIG. 485. and arrange them with taste. Truffle decorations can also be made by cutting the truffles as thin as a thread with a knife, and placing them at once in Madeira wine until required for use, then drip and lay them on a napkin. With these imitate the outlines of landscapes or any other orna- mentation, using them for tracing designs imitating pen or pencil drawings. When the design is finished coat over with half -set white jelly. (2486). GALANTINE OP CHICKEN A LA D'OKLEANS (Galantine de Poulet a la d'Orleans). Bone two young chickens weighing two pounds each; leave on only the white meat adhering to the breasts, and suppress the leg meats; remove some of the breast meat adhering to the skin and place it where the skin is bare. These chickens when boned and stuffed should only weigh two pounds and a half each. Fill them with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which mix a salpicon of truffles, pistachios, tongue and foies-gras, all cut in quarter-inch squares; let cook in a stock (No. 194a) for two hours, unwrap, wash out the cloths and revvrap them as before; hang them up by one end on a hook, and to the other end fasten a sufficiently heavy weight; leave them hanging for twelve hours; unwrap and pare them alike, then cover with an ordinary white chaudfroid (No. 754 THE EPICUREAN. 596); decorate the tops with fanciful designs of truffles dipped in half-set jelly so they adhere well to the galantines; when thoroughly fastened coat over with jelly spread over with a funnel FIG. 486. made for this purpose (Fig. 759), and stand them against the support; place one on each side. The cup is filled with small truffles. Arrange some squares of jelly around the support, and chopped jelly between the support and croutons, as shown in tlio drawing. (2487). GALANTINE OF DUCKLING, PEAR-SHAPED (Galantine de Caneton en Forme de Poire). Bone a cleaned and singed duckling, leaving on one leg; season the inside meats and fill with pounded galantine forcemeat (No. 65) mixed with half as much baking forcemeat (No. 81), and a salpiconof lambs' sweetbreads, mushrooms and truffles, to be cut in quarter-inch squares, also some cooked and cold veal udder. Eestore the duckling to its original shape, sew it up, inclosing its contents, and mold it in a bottomless mold, shaped like a pear; braise in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) for an hour and a half in a slack oven, basting frequently. "When done drain and place this mold on a buttered baking sheet and leave it to cool under the pressure of a weight; glaze over with a light green chaudfroid sauce (No. 595), smear one side of the galantine with a piece of wadding that has been rubbed on very finely powdered carmine, and coat with a layer of half-set jelly; at the end stick in either a natural or artificial pear-stalk with a few leaves around and surround, when dished, with a border of chopped jelly and croutons. (2488). GALANTINE OP EEL, DECORATED (Galantine d'Anguille D6cor6e). Skin a large Niagara eel. take out the middle bone, season and fill it with fish quenelle force- meat (No. 90), mixing into it truffles and pistachios, seasoning it well. Inclose this dressing in the eel and lay it in a well-buttered Savarin mold, baste over with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419) and cover with bards of fat pork. Place this mold in a low saucepan containing a little water and push it into a slack oven; when the fish is properly done, remove and leave it to cool off in the mold under the pressure of a light weight, then turn it out and dress on a round dish; cover over COLD SERVICE. 755 with Cambridge butter (No. 570), decorate with cuts of truffle, the red part of a lobster, tarragon leaves and a small stalk of chervil; garnish around with quartered hard-boiled eggs (No. 2513) and fill the center with a macedoine salad (No. 2650; dressed with mayonnaise (No. 606); serve with a separate tartar sauce (No. 631). (2489). GALANTINE OF GOSLING, MELON-SHAPED (Galantine d'Oison en Forme de Melon). After singeing and boiling a gosling remove all its meat, spread out the skin on a buttered napkin, cut up the breast into five-eighths of an inch squares, suppress all sinews from the legs and add as much pork meat and veal meat to obtain a pound and a half in all; chop this well, then chop separately a pound of fat pork, and half a pound of beef marrow. Pound all well together and mix in with the pulp a clove of crushed and chopped garlic, some finely cut-up mushrooms, salt, spices No. 2 (No. 168), and a few egg-yolks. Lay this forcemeat on the skin and close up the napkin, giving it a round shape; tie and cook in a stock (No. 194a). Unwrap and then retighten the napkin and flatten lightly, so as to give it the shape of a melon; let cool for twenty-four hours, afterward imitate a melon by cutting eight half-inch deep grooves from top tc bottom, glazing it over with white chaudfroid (No. 596) colored with yellow. Paint it with spinach green (No. 37) to imitate a cantaloup melon, and coat with layers of half-set jelly. Imitate the stalk and melon leaves with modeling fat (No. 56) and dress it on a dish, garnishing around with chopped jelly and croutons of jelly. (2490). GALANTINES OF GUINEA FOWL A LA LYTTON (Galantines de Pintades a la Lytton). Bone entirely three young guinea fowls, spread them on the table, remove the thigh meats, suppress the sinews of the fillets and all the superfluous fat; cut the fillets in two on their thickness and use them to lay where the meat is lacking, then fill them with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) mingled with a salpicon of truffles, pistachios and udder, all cut in three-sixteenths inch squares and well mixed; they should, when stuffed, each weigh two pounds. Cover the entire outside with very thin slices of fat pork and wrap them up in napkins; roll all the same thickness and put on to cook in some stock (No. 194a) for one hour and a half, then drain, unwrap and wash out the napkins; wrap them up again without the fat pork and hang them on a hook, fastening a weight to the end of each one so as to have them well pressed; when very cold unwrap once more and pare again; cover them over with white chaudfroid (No. 596), decorate with black truffles, coat with jelly and dress them on a dish against an upright or sloping supporting piece, it being two inches across at the summit and six at the base by five inches in height, covered over with rav- igote butter (No. 583), and strew chopped parsley over. Set a cup on top of the summit, filled with truffles. Make truffle balls with foies-gras taken from a terrine. pounded and rubbed through a sieve; when very cold form this irlto inch and a quarter diameter balls, roll them in truffle peelings that have been finely chopped and passed through a sieve. When these imitated truffles are very cold dip them in half-set jelly and lay each one in a white paper crimped case the same size as themselves; place these also between the galantines and garnish all around with chopped jelly and jelly croutons (No. 2442). (2491). GALANTINES OF PARTRIDGES A LA CLEMENTINE (Galantines de Perdreaux k la Clementine). Choose three nice partridges; bone and open them on the table; decrease the thickest parts of the meats to place them on the thinner spots, then season well; cover with game galantine force- meat (No. 66) pounded and forced through a sieve. On this place lengthways some lardons (No. 1, Fig. 52) of blanched fat pork, some truffles, cooked beef tongue and foies-gras; cover with more forcemeat and repeat the operation, finishing with the forcemeat; enclose well in the partridge skin and roll up in separate cloths, tying them at both ends and in the center; the three must be of the same weight a pound and a half apiece and rolled to the same length. Simmer them in some stock (No. 194a) for two hours; drain and leave cool partly, then roll them up tight in a clean cloth, tie both ends and the center again and hang them up, fastening a ten-pound weight or more to the bottom of each one; leave till quite cold, then unwrap and pare to an equal size and shape; cover with white chaudfroid (No. 596); decorate with truffles and mask over with jelly, then leave to get quite cold. These galantines are to be dressed on a round dish with swan support dressed on the stearine foundation; place a galantine between each swan. Bone a partridge thoroughly, remove all the skin and sinews and cut it up in small quarter-inch pieces, fry them in oil with garlic, mignonette and cayenne, wet with good vinegar and broth and let simmer; when the meats are done and the moisture reduced add a little jelly. Prepare some pretty, red peeled tomatoes, 756 THE EPICUREAN. empty them, arrange on a baking sheet, fill them with this preparation, replace the covers and when cold glaze over with half-set jelly and lay them between the galantines. Have a griffon socle pre- pared as for the ballotines a la Madison (see Fig. 453), place in the shells of the socle some stuffed mushroom heads (No. 2517) glazed with brown chaudfroid (No. 594). Garnish the bottom of the FIG. 487. socle with cases of stuffed thrushes or larks all glazed over with blond chaudfroid; between each of these cases lay a carved hominy croustade filled with chopped jelly, with the streaked minion fillets formed into rings on the top. Finish decorating the whole with a stearine cup placed on the support, having it filled with small glazed truffles; around the base place a garland of smilax or other greens. (2492). GALANTINES OP PAKTBJDGES AND SLICED IN BELLEVUE (Galantines de Perdreau* en Tranches et en Bellevue). Procure two or three fresh, plucked and singed partridges; bone them through the back; suppress the largest sinews from the legs and fillets, and season; remove all the meat attached to the bones and carcasses. Prepare a fine forcemeat (No. 65), pound and mix with it the chopped parings of the birds and half as much liver baking forcemeat (No. 81); pound, strain and season. Put into a bowl some strips of blanched fat pork a quarter of an inch square, mix with them some truffles and red beef tongue, cut the same. Fill the partridges with the force- meat; reconstruct them to their original shape and sew up; wrap them in small cloths, tying them at the ends and in the center. Cook these galantines slowly for one hour and a quarter in some good unskimmed stock (No. 194a). After taking them out, remove the cloths and wrap them up once more, only much tighter, and let cool off under a light weight; finally, unwrap, pare, glaze and serve, either whole or cut up, garnished with jelly. In Bellevue. Have a boned partridge cooled under a weight as for the above; cut it into slices; pare them into even ovals all of the same thickness, then glaze with game glaze (No. 398) on one side only, using a brush; lay on the center of each a thin slice of truffle cut out with a column tube. Let a thin layer of clear jelly harden on a small baking tin; when stiff, range the slices on top, pressing the pieces down on the glazed side, one beside the other, then pour in between them enough cold jelly to reach as high as the slices; cool this for one hour on ice. At the last moment slit all around these slices with the heated tip of a small knife, then warm the bottom of the pan with a cloth dipped in hot water to enable the slices to be removed with the jelly attached, and dress in a circle on a cold dish. Garnish the center with chopped jelly and around with croutons of jelly (No. 2442). (2493). GALANTINE OP PAETRIDGE, ELIZABETH (Galantine de Perdreau Elisabeth). Pare some quarter-inch thick slices of a boned partridge prepared as in Bellevue (No. 2492) into half-heart shapes; glaze and on each one lay a fine slice of black and well marbleized truffle, cover with jelly and dress them in a circle, filling the center with a Russian salad (No. 2645), and around with artichoke bottoms, garnished with seasoned macedoine (No. 2650). COLD SERVICE. 757 (2494). GALANTINE OP PHEASANT A LA LOKENZO (Galantine de Paisan a la Lorenzo). Fry colorless in butter one pound of fat chicken livers; keep half of the finest ones aside. Chop up finely one pound of partridge meat and the same quantity of fat pork; season highly with salt, cayenne pepper, and nutmeg; stir well together, adding four egg-yolks and half of the liver well pounded; press the whole through a tammy and then put in an onion cut in one- eighth of an inch squares, blanched and fried colorless in butter, and some finely chopped parsley. Bone a pheasant, spread it open on the table, remove half of the thickness of the fillets, equalize the meats throughout the entire surface of the skin, then lay a third of the prepared force- meat over, on this half of the livers laid aside, and the same quantity of quartered truffles; now another layer of the forcemeat, and scatter here and there the rest of the livers and as many truffles; spread all that remains of the forcemeat, and enclose the whole well in the pheasant skin; sew and roll the galantine in a napkin; tie it firmly at both ends and in the center, and place it in a braziere with a knuckle of veal and the game carcasses, a bunch of garnished parsley (No. 123), an onion containing two cloves, and a carrot cut in four; moisten with plenty of stock (No. 194a), cook slowly for two and a half hours, then leave to cool off in the stock for one hour; unwrap and remold it once more, this time placing it under a weight. When the galantine is thoroughly cold, unwrap and pare it nicely, then cover it over with brown chaudfroid (No. 594), and decorate with cut-up truffles, pistachios, tongue, and egg-white; lay it on a small three-inch thick socle made of carved rice. Prepare sixteen larks by boning and filling them with forcemeat composed of half foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78) and half game forcemeat (No. 75) and chopped truffles; cook them in No. 3 mousseline molds, having the breasts downward; prepare the same number of streaked partridge minion fillets, form them in the shape of rings two and a quarter inches in diameter, and lay each one on a separate piece of buttered paper; fill the centers with game cream forcemeat (No. 75), and poach in a slack oven. Put some No. 1 mousseline molds on a baking sheet, having ice around; on the bottoms form an eye of egg-white and truffle, and coat the mold with brown chaudfroid (No. 594); lay the cold unmolded larks in the center and fill up with chaudfroid. Turn them out only when very cold and arrange them around the galantine with the minion fillets between. Decorate around the socle with finely chopped jelly made with the stock. Bellevue hatelets may be fastened in the top of galantine if so desired. (2495). GALANTINE OF PHEASANT OUT UP (Galantine de Faisan Decouple). This entree is dressed on a wooden foundation fastened to a dish and covered with white paper, having in its center a small convex-shaped support made of tin, quite low, and covered with whita paper. Singe two clean pheasants, bone the largest one by splitting it down the back, remove the meats from the legs and decrease the thickness from the breast meat; then cut this up into large shreds and lay them in a bowl, adding the breast meat of the other pheasant, pared and cut the same; also add strips of raw truffle, strips of blanched fat pork or udder, strips of foies-gras and FIG. 488. lastly a few shreds of lean cooked ham or cooked red beef tongue; season highly, pour over some Madeira wine and let macerate for one hour. Chop up the leg meats with the carcass parings and mix them with a chopped forcemeat made of game meats and lean veal and as much chopped fat pork, then season. With this chopped forcemeat and the macerated meats in the bowl prepare the boned pheasant the same as the boned pullet No. 2497, sew it up and wrap it in a cloth, then cook it for one hour and a half, cooling it off afterward under a weight. Pare the cold boned pheasant, cut it in slices and dress them one overlapping the other on the support, and glaze over lightly with a brush. Surround both sides of these slices with a few boned larks cov- ered with brown chaudfroid (No. 594), and around these push a rope of chopped jelly through a cornet; surround the paper-covered bottom with pretty croutons of jelly, and on one end of the galantine of pheasant stick a hatelet garnished with truffles. 758 THE EPICUREAN. (2496). GALANTINE OF PIGEONS (Galantine de Pigeons). Bone three large, tender, clean and singed pigeons, season the inside meat and fill them with forcemeat (No. 65), mingled with a little baking forcemeat (No. 81) and a few spoonfuls of truffles cut in dice. Return them to their former shape, sew up and wrap each one in a sepa- rate piece of muslin, then cook them for one hour in a good stock; when done properly, unwrap, tighten more and let get cold under the pressure of a weight. When ready to use, take the pigeons from the cloths, glaze them over, cut in slices and dress with jelly. (2497). GALANTINE OF PULLET OR OAPON A LA MOZAET (Galantine de Poularde ou de Chapon a la Mozart). This cold entree can be dressed on a support slightly higher in the middle, covered with cooked paste (No. 131) and dried in the air. Singe a not too fat pullet, split it down the back, bone en- tirely, and season the inside. Prepare this pullet the same as a galantine of turkey a la Berger (No. 2499), and sew it up; wrap it well and cook for one hour and a half to two hours in clear, unskimmed stock (No. 194a), having the pullet bones added, and two or three boned and blanched FIG. 489. calves' feet, some roots, onions and aromatic herbs. When the boned pullet has cooked tor a sufficient length of time, drain it off and unwrap it; wrap it up once more and reshape it, tying it very tight, and then place it to cool under the pressure of a weight. When cold, pare off the ends and cut it up into equally thick slices, and divide each of these slices into two; dress them neatly in a single row on the support; garnish around with cocks'-combs and mushrooms covered over with chaudfroid, intermingled with chopped jelly, and besides have a few small cases filled with glazed truffles. (2498). GALANTINE OF SUCKLING PIG (Galantine de Oochon de Lait). Prepare a suckling pig the same as for No. 1810, singe and bone it completely without pierc- ing the skin, keeping on the four feet and removing the head. Remove the meat or fat from the different parts where there is too much. Stuff the galantine with a salpicon of truffles, one pound of red tongue mixed with pork forcemeat (No. 68) and a pound of blanched fat pork the truffles, red tongue and fat pork cut in three-sixteenth inch squares. Season with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and nutmeg; wrap it up in a cloth and roll without pulling or shortening the length of the skin and keeping the feet in their natural position. Lay it in a braziere lined with fat pork and garnish around with vegetables and uncooked pig's feet; moisten with white wine, season with salt and whole peppers, and let cook without boiling for four to five hours. Drain, cool, unwrap partly and roll up again, then tie the cloth firmly at both ends of the galantine, and hang it up with a sufficiently strong weight on the bottom. When thoroughly cold, unwrap and glaze it a dark color; put back the head, which has been blanched for half an hour and allowed to cool, and decorate the whole with fanciful cuts of egg-white, tongue, truffles, gherkins and ornamental hatelets; dress on a rice foundation and surround with chopped jelly and jelly croutons. (2499). GALANTINE OF TURKEY A LA BERGER-BONED TURKEY (Galantine a la Berger). Bone a small turkey after having cut off the wings, the legs and the neck. Begin by cutting the skin down its entire length, commencing from the middle of the neck and ending at the middle ot the rump, using a small thin knife and following the outlines of the rib bones; then remove the breast bone and the second joint bones, suppress the meat from the latter and chop it up finely; remove all sinews from the fillets, cut away a part of their thickness and place them where the legs were taken from. Prepare a well-seasoned chopped forcemeat (No. 65), mix well together, adding half a gill of brandy, truffle essence (No. 395) and one ounce of chopped truffles. Cut half a pound of fat pork into half-inch squares, blanch and drain; have also half a pound of unsmoked red beef tongue cut in half-inch squares, five ounces of peeled truffles cut in COLD SERVICE. 759 pieces, and three-quarters of a pound of duck or goose livers, parboiled, cold and cut in half-inch dice. With this and the forcemeat stuff the turkey, then wrap it up in a cloth and let cook in some good stock for two hours. Drain off well, take off the cloth and wrap it up again before setting under the press. When thoroughly cold unwrap, pare and cover with a white fecula FIG. 490. chaudfroid sauce (No. 593), and decorate with fanciful cuts of very black truffles and pistachios dipped in half-set jelly; as soon as this is quite hard, cover with half -set jelly and dress on a trimmed crouton of cooked hominy or rice. Garnish around with chopped jelly and have an outside border of jelly croiitons. Stick one Bellevue hatelet (No. 2526) in the center of the turkey, and two garnished hatelets (No. 2526) on each side. GAKNISHINGS FOE COLD DISHES (Garnitures Pour Pieces Froides), (2500). GARNISHING OP ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS PILLED WITH MACEDOINE (Garniture de Ponds d'Artichauts Garnis de Mace"doine). Artichoke Bottoms. Trim some small round artichoke bottoms two inches in diameter; rub over with lemon and blanch in plenty of water; cook them in a white stock (No. 182) seasoned with salt and lemon juice, putting in also half a pound of chopped beef marrow; cover with but- tered paper and boil slowly. When the bottoms are well done remove from the fire, place them into a stone bowl, cover with buttered paper and leave to cool in their liquid; wash them off in boiling water, marinate and drain. Lay each bottom on a turnip cut out to imitate the base of a vase, and fill with either macedoine salad (No. 2650) or a separate vegetable: carrots, turnips, green peas, cauliflower, string beans, asparagus tops, crawfish tails, or else a salpicon of tongue, truffles and mushrooms mixed in even parts and mingled with mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). ( 2501). GARNISHING OP ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, IMPERIAL (Garniture de Ponds d'Artichauts k 1'Impe'riale). Prepare and cook some artichoke bottoms as in No. 2500; they must be thick and not too broad; wipe dry and lay them on a small baking sheet; keep on ice. Prepare a cooked truffle salad, they to be cut in quarter-inch dice, small green asparagus tops and celery roots cut up the same as the truffles; season this salad with salt, oil, vinegar and mustard. Drain off this seasoning one hour later and thicken it with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). With this preparation fill the hollow parts of the artichoke bottoms, arranging each one in a pyramid; smooth the surface and cover lightly with jellied mayonnaise, decorate with fanciful cuts of gherkins and replace on the ice for ten minutes before serving. 760 THE EPICUREAN. (2502). GAENISHING OP EGGS A LA DEVELLE (Garniture d'ffiufs a la Develle). Cut in two cross ways seven or eight shelled hard-boiled eggs; use only the halves with the rounded ends and from them remove all the yolks and rub through a sieve; put this into a small vessel and add to it a little cold aspic jelly (No. 103) ; (scoop the whites out lightly). Pound the cooked meats of a small lobster, press through a sieve into a bowl and season with salt and a dash of cayenne; add first two spoonfuls of white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), then some mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), and lastly a few spoonfuls of the cold jelly; stir this preparation on ice to harden, then take up sufficient of it with a spoon and fill the hollow egg-whites, smoothing the tops dome-shaped; lay them in the ice box; when cold take them in the hand one by one and dip into a chaudfroid sauce, but only on the garnished side and as far down as this begins; have the sauce hardened. Dress on jelly rings cut out with a pastry cutter, keeping the dish very cold. When the eggs are ready decorate the tops with fanciful cuts of truffles and a few small shrimp tails; dip them one by one in half-set jelly and stand them upright, each one inside of one of the jelly rings. (2503). GAENISHING OF EGGS A LA JAEDINIEEE (Garniture d'OBufs a la Jardiniere). Divide in two crossways fifteen hard-boiled eggs; keep only the halves having the roundest end and cut these off so that they stand upright. Remove the yolks from these halves and scoop the white out lightly, then fill up the hollow with a little finely cut macedoine salad (No. 2650) dressed with mayonnaise (No. 606); smooth them into a dome and put aside on ice, then cover the dome with small carrot and gherkin balls cut in halves; brush over with half -set jelly and dress. (2504). GAENISHING OP EGGS, JULIETTE (Garniture d'ffiufs Juliette). Fry thin slices of ham in butter without coloring; drain off the fat and place the ham under a weight; detach the glaze from the pan with a little Madeira wine, a small quantity of half-glaze (No. 400), and as much jelly (No. 103) ; reduce well. Pare the ham into half -hearts and cover them entirely with the sauce. Decorate a timbale mold (No. 1, Fig. 137) with pistachios and truffles; coat the dec- oration with a thick layer of the sauce and place in the center some small soft eggs just cooked enough to allow to peel; on these lay the ham, shredded fine, and the remainder of the sauce; when perfectly cold fill up with jelly, and as this becomes thoroughly cold invert the whole on a dish, having a layer of jelly on its bottom; surround with chopped jelly and croutons (No. 2442). (2505). GAENISHING OF EGGS A LA JUSTINE (Garniture d'ffiufs a la Justine). Boil hard seven or eight eggs; when very cold, drain and shell. Incrust in pounded ice seven or eight tin molds the shape of half eggs, only just a little wider and higher; coat these with jelly. Cut each egg length way? in two; take out the yolks and scoop out the whites with a vegetable spoon, leaving only a thin envelope; fill the empty inside of these half eggs with a chicken " pain " prep- aration (No. 2543), having it lightly buttered. Take up the stuffed eggs one by one on a wide fork passed under the flat side; dip them in a good brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 397); drain off the sauce and let the eggs cool, then pare the surplus of it, and decorate with thin cuts of truffles and gherkins; now place a half egg in each mold, and pour cold jelly around to fill up the spaces; when cold, unmold and dress in a rosette as a garnishing. (2506). GAENISHING OF EGGS A LA EOUEOAISE (Garniture d'ffiufs a la Eouennaise). Divide in two lengthways seven or eight shelled hard-boiled eggs; take out the yolks to pound and rub through a sieve. Harden on a small baking sheet on ice a layer of fine jelly, having it a quarter of an inch thick; from this cut out with a heated pastry cutter eight oval crusts, having them two and a quarter inches long by one and a quarter inches wide; form rings of these with a narrower pastry cutter, and detach them from the pan by warming it underneath; dress them in a rosette on a cold dish and keep it on ice. Fill the half eggs with a salpicon of cooked duckling fillets mixed with mushrooms and a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594) mixed with soubise sauce (No. 543); smooth the preparation into domes, and cover the eggs entirely with a thin layer of white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596). When this is quite cold, decorate the surfaces with fanciful cuts of truffles and with strings of pounded egg-yolk mixed with chaudfroid; lay one egg inside of each jelly ring. COLD SERVICE. 761 2507). GAENISHING OP EGGS, BAEEEL-SHAPED (Garniture d'CEufs en Forme de Baril), Cut off both ends of seven or eight shelled hard-boiled (eggs imitate the shape of a small barrel); empty them from top to bottom with a small tin tube, and fill up the hole with a salpicon of lobster and truffles mingled with a thick mayonnaise (No. 606); lay them on a baking sheet, and let stand on ice for half an hour. On removing them, decorate the sides with thin fillets of anchovies, dipped in half-set jelly, and cover over the top platform with a pyramid of chopped jelly. (2508). GAENISHING OF HAED-BOILED EGGS, BASKET-SHAPED (Garniture d'CEufs Durs en Forme de Corbeille). Cut off straight the ends of the hard-boiled egg and across through the center; take out the yolk from the upper parts, and fill them to a pointed shape with a salpicon of vegetables cut in small squares, and combined with a little mayonnaise (No. 606), or simply fill them with jelly. Vio. 491. *2509). GAENISHING OF HAED EGGS IN CHAUDFEOID (Garniture d'CEufs Durs en Chaudfroid). Have two oval pastry cutters one two and a quarter inches long by one and quarter wide, and another half an inch less in diameter; cut some slices of very red cooked beef tongue three-six- teenths of an inch thick, and cut them into ovals with the largest cutter; remove the center with the smallest cutter; glaze over the rings with a brush and dress on the bottom of a cold dish. Cut lengthways in two six shelled hard-boiled eggs, take out the yolks, garnish each half with a foies- gras puree preparation, having chopped truffles added; smooth the surfaces dome-shaped. Dip the half-stuffed eggs into a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), thickened to a proper consistency, and drain off the surplus, then dress a half egg into each ring. After the sauce is thoroughly cold decorate the tops with fanciful cuts of truffles, and dress. (2510). GAENISHING OF HALVED HAED-BOILED EGGS (Garniture de Horde's d'CEufs Durs). Cut some hard-boiled eggs lengthwise in two even parts, and a third across on the most rounded end; try and obtain the eggs all of even size. Dress the border so that the yolks face the exterior of the dish; on top of the whites place a small lozenge of angelica, or one of very thin and very red beetroot, Which ever is used should be cut very thin. All egg borders should be dressed very regularly. FIG. 492. (2511). GAENISHING OF EGGS, MOSOOVITE (Garniture d'CEufs Moscovite). Have a thin layer of aspic jelly (No. 103) three-eighths of an inch thick; harden on ice on a small baking sheet; from it cut out with a hot pastry cutter seven or eight rings sufficiently large to hold up the eggs inside of them. Cut crossways, two-thirds from the top, seven or eight shelled hard- boiled eggs; take out the yolks and pound them with a few anchovies and a piece of butter; rub this through a coarse sieve so it falls through like vermicelli, and keep cold. Scoop out the insides of the eggs lightly with a vegetable spoon, and fill them with a fine salpicon of crawfish mingled with thick tartar sauce (No. 631); leave for two minutes on ice; smooth the preparation into a dome form, and lay the eggs inside the jelly rings, to stand for a quarter of an hour longer on ice. After they are removed take up the vermicelli yolks with a fork, and cover the domes of the eggs with it. (2512). GAENISHING OF EGGS, POLISH STYLE (Garniture d'CEufs a la Polonaise). Cut in small dice the cooked meats of some lobster claws, add to this salpicon the same quantity of oysters poached in white wine and half as much salt, cucumber or gherkin, and beside this the white of seven or eight hard-boiled eggs, also cut up in small dice; season the salpicon with oil, vinegar and mustard, and let macerate for one hour; drain on a sieve and return it to the same vessel to combine with some mayonnaise (No. 606). Dress this preparation in a small croustade, smooth the top and decorate with the egg-yolks pounded with a little ravigote butter (No. 583) pushed through a cornet. 762 THE EPICUREAN. FIG. 493. (2513). GARNISHING OF DECORATED QUARTERED EGGS (Garniture d'Otofe Durs en Quartiers De"core"s). Choose some hard-boiled eggs, all of uniform size; cut them across the rounded ends and then lengthwise in four even-sized quarters; dress them so that the yolks face outward. The whites may be decorated with small fanciful cuts of very black truffles, red tongue and pistachios, by dipping them into half -set jelly, and applying them tastefully on the very cold eggs (Fig. 493). (2514). HARD-BOILED EGGS STUPFED WITH SALPICON ((Eufs Durs Farcis au Salpicon). Incorporate some rather firm jelly into a little puree of foies- gras, spread it out on a baking sheet to half an inch in thickness and leave to cool. With a pastry cutter remove from it some rounds two inches in diameter, and from these remove the center with an inch and a quarter pastry cutter. Place these rings in small shallow crimped paper cases. Cut some hard-boiled eggs in two through the center of their height, empty the interior of each half and refill them to a point with a half-inch salpicon of chicken, truffles, tongue and mushrooms, combined with a little jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); strew chopped parsley over. Lay these eggs on the rings and cover lightly with jelly. (2515). GARNISHING OF HARD-BOILED EGGS, VASE SHAPE (Garniture d'OZufs Durs en Forme de Vase). Cut off a third of the length of the egg; use the most rounded end for the upper part and the pointed end for the base; stick these two parts to- gether with white chaudfroid (No. 596); take out the yolk and replace it by chopped jelly (Fig. 494). Fm 494 (2516). GARNISHING OF WHOLE HARD-BOILED EGG-YOLKS (Garniture de Jaunes d'(Eufs Durs Entiers). Have some small, even-sized hard-boiled egg-yolks; stand them on rings cut from gherkins or beef tongue; lay in a circle a fillet of anchovy two- thirds the height of these yolks; besprinkle the inside of this circle with finely chopped truffles, and on top place a green pistachio nut (Fig. 495). (2517). MUSHROOMS STUFFED AND GLAZED WITH OHAUDFROID (Champignons Farcis Glace"s au Chaudfroid). Select even-sized mushrooms about an inch in diameter; empty out the interiors and fill them up with foies-gras rubbed through a sieve. Fasten FIG. 495. them together, two by two, to form a ball, then glaze over with brown chaudfroid (No. 594); lay them on top of a ring of cooked beef tongue and on the summit place a circle cut from hard-boiled egg-white: fill the center of this circle with a round piece of very black truffle and coat the whole with half-set jelly (Fig. 496). (2518). GARNISHING OF STUFFED SPANISH FIQ. 496. OLIVES (Garniture d'Olives d'Espagne Farcies). Stone some large Spanish olives with a tin tube sufficiently large to remove the stone; pare the olives very straight at both ends and fill up the hollow space with anchovy butter (No. 569); on top of the butter lay a green pistachio nut (Fig. 497). (2519). GARNISHING OF OYSTERS IN CROUSTADES (Garniture d'Huitres en Oroustades). Drain and wipe some large blanched oysters; remove the muscle part and replace it by a round piece of lobster cut the same size. Make some small oval fine foundation paste croustades; cover Fio. 497. COLD SERVICE. 763 the insides with buttered paper, fill with rice, bake and empty; fill them halfway up with cooked mushrooms, cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, mingled with a little well-seasoned blond chaudfroid, made by mixing a little brown chaudfroid (No. 594) with white chaudfroid (No. 596), and over these lay the oysters; put in a layer of half-set jelly, applying it with a brush, and deco- rate each croustade with chervil leaves; cover with more jelly. (2520). GAENISHING OF OYSTERS WITH JELLY (Garniture d'Huitres a la Gele"e). Open some large oysters, poach, remove the muscle and split them in two through their thickness; cover both sides with a layer of jellied mayonnaise (No. 613) and reshape them as before; then lay them slightly apart on a baking sheet; brush the surfaces several times with half-set jelly, and keep them for a few moments on ice; afterward remove by cutting away the jelly all around with a plain pastry cutter dipped in hot water; detach the oysters from the sheet, heating this un- derneath, then dress. (2521). HAM DEOOEATED A LA GATTI (Jambon De'corS a la Gatti). Have a ham prepared and cooked the same as for jelly (No. 2524); leave a part of the rind on the handle end, and cut it into sharp points by raising up the edge of each point on one side; glaze the ham with white chaudfroid (No. 596), all except the rind, which must be glazed with meat glaze (No. 402). Decorate around the ham with a design of branches made of fillets of truffles and very green pistachios; decorate the top with a rosette of truffles. Place the ham on a silver dish, having two tiers covered with ravigote butter (No. 583); decorate around the dish bottom with halved eggs filled with chopped jelly, as shown in Fig. 498; surround the ham with chopped jelly, and the base with square jelly croutons (No. 2442). Insert a piece of wood to take the place of the handle, and trim it with a fancy frill (No. 10), and a hatelet on one side. (2522). HAM GLAZED WITH SUGAE (Jambon Glac6 au Sucre). Hams are usually purchased already salted and smoked, for the pickling only succeeds when a large quantity are done at one time. The most essential point to observe is to have them recently smoked, of a young pig of a good breed. The easiest way to cook a ham is as follows: Cut off the end handle of a ten pound ham, shorten the loin bone, suppress a thin layer of the outside of the ham that is oversmoked, and then soak it for three hours in water; afterward place it in a large soup-pot or sauce-pan, covering with cold water; stand the vessel on the fire and bring it gradu- ally to a boil, then drain off this water, and replace it by tepid water; add some whole spices and aromatics. It must cook about fifteen minutes for each pound, or two and a half hours in all. Take the vessel from off the fire, and leave the ham to cool in its liquid. Remove, drain thor- oughly, lift off the rind, and pare nicely, keeping it a pretty shape; bestrew with fine sugar, and stand it on a baking tin; glaze to a fine color in a hot oven, remove, and when cold dress it on a bread foundation covered with ravigote butter (No. 583) and chopped parsley; surround the bottom of the dish with chopped jelly and cut-out croutons (for these see No. 2442). 764 THE EPICUREAN. (2523). HAM TRUFFLED A LA FLOEIAN (Jambon Truffe a la Florian). In order to succeed with this dish it will be found necessary to have an oval bomb-shaped copper-tinned mold, nine and a half inches long, six and three-quarters inches wide and four inches deep. This mold must be oiled on the outside and laid on an oiled marble slab, having the opening downward; around it place an iron ring twelve inches in length, ten inches wide and five and a half inches deep; place this ring in such a way that the mold will fit exactly in its center, fill the space between the mold and the ring with plaster of Paris wetted with a little water; smooth the FIG. 499. top nicely and leave it to harden; turn this ring over and take out the mold. Pare a twelve- pound freshly salted smoked ham neatly, unsalt it for ten hours, and boil it in water for an hour 'and a half, then braise in a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419) for three hours or more until the bones are easily detached from the meat; remove them, and pare the ham shapely, suppressing the skin and all the smoked parts, then lard it in every direction with quartered truffles and pistachios. Place this ham in the mold, the mold in the ring filled with plaster, and on the ham lay a board one inch less in diameter than the mold, and half an inch thick. Put under the press (No. 71), and when cold unmold and trim. Glaze over with pink chaudfroid, decorate with truffles and pistachios dipped in half-set jelly, cover over with jelly and lay it on a carved rice socle, hav- ing this ranged on an oval dish. Decorate the top with three hatelets, and around with chopped jelly and a border of jelly croutons (see Fig. 461). (2524). ENGLISH HAM WITH JELLY (Jambon Anglais a la Gel6e). If freshly salted and smoked it is unnecessary to soak it; simply wash off in warm water, pare and saw the handle bone short, then put it into a large vessel, cover with cold water and bring this FIG. 500. to a boil, adding aromatic herbs; close the lid and leave to boil for three hours slowly, but continu- ously and regularly. Remove the vessel from the fire and allow the ham to cool off in this liquor. (A ham is cooked when the meat on the handle bone becomes soft.) Drain it off, suppress the COLD SERVICE. 765 thick end bone and a part of the rind, leaving the leg end covered; pare and remove all the upper part to cut up into even slices. Lay the ham on an oval wooden board covered with white paper and fastened on a dish, dress the cut slices in a circle on top of the ham and fill the center with chopped jelly; glaze the rind and the remaining whole piece with a brush and surround the base with a string of thick jelly pushed through a pocket; dress fine triangles of jelly (No. 2442) all around; fasten a jelly-decorated hatelet in the opposite end from the handle, slanting it outward (see drawing, Fig. 501). (2525). HAMS OF CHICKEN WITH ZAMPINO (Jambons de Poulet Garnis de Zampino). Bone thoroughly two good chickens weighing two pounds each, leaving on only the drumstick bones; separate each one in two lengthwise, season and fill each half with galantine forcemeat (No. 65) and long shreds of cooked veal udder, also of very red beef tongue, raw foies-gras and quartered raw truffles, proceeding exactly the same as for boned chicken (No. 2485) ; bring the meats close together in order to sew up and wrap each of the halved boned chickens in a white cloth; cook for one hour in unskimmed white broth (No. 194a); drain the galantines and unwrap; lay on a baking sheet some bottomless molds in the shape of hams, having a slot in the thin end to allow the drum- stick to pass through, place the chickens in these and let get cold under the pressure of a light weight. Pare and disengage the pinion bone. They may now be cut in slices, reconstructing them as before, and keeping in shape with a thin skewer; cover the entire surface with white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), that has become slightly thickened on ice. After this sauce is cold cover over the hams on the drumstick end with brown chaudfroid (No. 594), imitating the real skin of a pared ham; trim each ham bone with a frill (No. 10); dress them two by two on a rice foundation, withdraw the skewers and decorate the hams with fanciful cuts of very black truffles; surround with thin slices of zampino three inches in diameter and cut in two across and dress them around the foundation, one overlapping the other. Surround with a piping of chopped jelly and some jelly croutons. Zampino of Modena. Take one leg of a fresh pig about fifteen inches long, leaving the foot adhering; bone it carefully not to split the skin, turn the skin back and then .remove the meat and fat; salt the skin plentifully, and leave it in brine for four to five days. After this time chop up coarsely ten pounds of lean pork meat with five pounds of beef, and mix these with five pounds of very finely chopped fresh pork rind. Season the mixture with ten ounces of salt, one ounce of crushed black pepper corns, a heavy pinch of cinnamon, a small pinch of saltpeter and one gill of red wine; mingle thoroughly. Now wash the skin in fresh water to ex- tract all the salt, turn it over to its normal position, and fill it with the above mixture; tie it firmly at the extreme end, and enwrap with a strong inch-wide tape, beginning at the smallest end of the zampino (that is, near the foot). Lay the zampino in a large kettle, cover plentifully with cold water, and stand it on a slow fire to have the liquid almost reach boiling point; then remove the kettle to a corner of the range and let barely bubble for an hour and a half to an hour and three- quarters. Take from the fire and leave to cool in the liquid; drain and remove the tape. This zampino can be served hot with string beans as described in No. 1820. (2526). MISCELLANEOUS COLD HATELETS, BELLEVUE VEGETABLES; CEOUTONS, CHOPPED TRAN3PAEENT JELLY AND STICKY CHOPPED JELLY (Hatelets Proids Divers en Bellevue, de Legumes; de Croutons et Gel6e Hach^e Transparente et de Gele"e Hacked Collante). Cold hatelets are to be prepared with plain or double white cocks'-combs enveloped in jelly, and round, black, unpeeled truffles glazed over with meat glaze (No. 402). Others are made of trussed crawfish from which the small legs have been suppressed and the body shells rubbed over with a little oil, channeled mushrooms (No. 118) coated with jelly, chicken or game qaenelles (No. 91), decorated and molded in Bellevue or simply covered, or else carved veg- etables blanched separately. These hatelets can also be composed of crawfish, lemons, truffles and mushrooms, having one small glazed truffle on top, a lightly oiled trussed crawfish under this truffle, and then a fine channeled glazed mushroom, having the upper part rounded, then a lemon cut into points; first one-half of the lemon, placed with the points upward, then a round piece of truffle and the other half of the lemon, the points downward, and finished with a glazed channeled mushroom, having the rounded end toward the bottom. 766 TTIE EPICUREAN, Lean Hatelets for Fish are composed of shrimps, crawfish, truffles, mushrooms or lemon. Cocks'-combs are not admissible for this kind of hatelets. Bellevue Hatelets. Prepare these hatelets as follows: Cut out with a tin tube three-fourths of an inch in diameter and an eighth of an inch in thickness, small rounds of chicken, cooked beef tongue and truffles; take pieces from the center with a smaller tin tube one-eighth of an inch FIG. 501. in diameter; run a hatelet through six of these rounds, beginning first by putting a small round whole truffle, then a round of chicken, tongue and truffle; begin again with another round of chicken, tongue and truffle, leaving a space between each. Cut off the upper crust of a loaf of bread, this to be six inches high; spread over the top to replace the crust a layer of butter a FIG. 502. FIG. 503. FIG. 504. quarter of an inch thick; on top place the hatelet cases or molds (Fig. 501); run through the metal hatelets decorated with the rounds exactly in the center, stand them upright, then fill the molds with cold jelly (No. 103) and keep them in a cool place for several hours. When ready to serve the pieces unniold these hatelets and run a fine unpeeled, round and black truffle on each one, then stick them into the piece. Carrots and turnips can be substituted for the chicken and tongue. Vegetable Hatelets. These hatelets are composed of vegetables or roots, imitating vases of various kinds; they are turned and carved with a knife, and formed of several pieces, then filled with artificial flowers made of vegetables, such as roses, camelias, lilies, or daisies; these flowers are colored by dipping them in a solution of aniline dissolved in alcohol and diluted with water. If these flowers are well made they can imitate the natural ones most marvelously. They can be used plain, without any coloring, but this is a matter of taste. COLD SERVICE. 767 For Chopped Transparent Jelly the fragments of jelly croutons are generally used, chopping them on a moistened cloth with a large knife; they should be chopped sufficiently fine, still not allowing them to get thick looking; they may also be cut into small fine lengthwise strips, afterward cutting them across in small squares; in this way they are sure to remain transparent. FIG. 505. FIG. 506. FIG. 507. Sticky Chopped Jelly is used for pushing through a pocket or paper cornet around a cold meat piece, and is also frequently used to cover the surface of a hJgh foundation that is to be used as a support. In order to obtain a sticky jelly, chop it up on a wet cloth, and sprinkle it over from time to time with some hot water, until it forms into a soft compact mass. This must be used at once. (2527). KEKNEL 0? VEAL WITH MAYONNAISE TOMATOED SAUCE (Noix de Veau a la Sauce Mayonnaise Tomatee). Lard thoroughly a kernel of veal with ham and fat pork, cover it with slices of udder, and then braise. Have a dome-shaped terrine or mold; put the kernel in; strain in the stock, add to it a little gelatine if not consistent enough, and when cold turn it on a dish. Remold into another mold of similar shape, but an inch larger in diameter, decorated with cuts of vegetables; fill with jelly and when cold dress it on a carved rice socle and garnish around with balls of turnips and carrots, blanched and cooked in stock (No. 194a) with a little sugar, and glazed; dress a butter border (No. 2444) or one of vegetables (No. 2443) on the edge of the dish, and serve apart a mayonnaise (No. 606) with some tomato puree (No. 730) added. (2528). KINGFISH FILLETS A LA VALENQAY (Filets de Zingfish a la Vale^ay). Pare oblong shape and cook ten to twelve small fillets of kingfish in a sautoir with white wine court-bouillon (No. 39); drain and let cool under a weight; trim them nicely, dip them singly into a white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), ranging them immediately on to a baking sheet to cool off the FIG. 508. sauce, then pare off the surplus of it. Decorate a third part of them on the smooth side with fancitul cuts of truffles or gherkins; cover them over with half-set jelly applied with a brush, and let this get cold, then dress them on an inch-high socle in pyramid form, placing the decorated ones on top. On one side fasten a hatelet garnished with shrimps. Uphold the fillets of fish on both 768 THE EPICUREAN. sides with thick chopped jelly pushed through a cornet and surround, both right and left, with five or six large crawfish bodies, emptied and refilled with a salpicon of crawfish or lobster tails, com- bined with a salad of small vegetables dressed with mayonnaise (No. 606). Stand these bodies up- right to form a half circle, and brush over with half-set jelly; surround the base of the dish with fine jelly croutons (No. 2442), and serve with a sauce-boat of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). (2529), CHICKEN LEGS SHAPED AS DUCKLINGS (Cuisses de Poulet en forme de Canetons). Cut the leg three-quarters of an inch from the joint. Remove the bones belonging to the second joint, as well as a third part of the drumsticks; stuff the legs with quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), introducing into it half as much foies-gras forcemeat (No. 78); mix in a third as much small three-sixteenths of an inch squares of tongue and mushroom, half of each, and raw fine herbs. Shape them to represent ducklings. Put in a sautoir some thin slices of fat pork and place the ducklings one beside the other. Braise, cool and pare off the under parts neatly, so that these imitated ducklings can stand plumb on their base, then glaze them with white chaudfroid (No. 596), and form the wings with crawfish claws. Make artificial eyes and form the beak by cutting the bone slanting. Surround with green parsley leaves, and serve with a bowl of ravigote sauce (No. 623). (2530). LEG OF MUTTON A LA GARRISON (Gigot de Mouton a la Garrison). Line a buttered saucepan with onions, carrots and slices of round of veal, slices of fat pork and ham; in the middle lay a leg of mutton having the thick loin end boned, and add a bunch of pars- ley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, also two boned calves' feet; moisten with stock (No. 194a), white wine and Madeira wine, a pint of each; let fall to a glaze and rernoisten with stock; when it begins to boil skim and cover with a sheet of paper; push into the oven for four or five hours until the leg is thoroughly cooked, then transfer it to an oval vessel and leave till cold. Have a few dozen carrots and turnips cut in balls, also some small onions; blanch these and cook each kind sepa- rately in broth (No. 194a); when fallen to a glaze allow them to cool, thickening with a little jelly (No. 103). The leg being cold, trim it nicely, glaze over with meat glaze (No. 402), dress it in the center of a dish and surround with the jellied vegetables and jelly cut in eighth of an inch squares arranged in clusters. Decorate the leg with anchovy fillets, chervil and tarragon, dipped in half-set jelly, and surround by horseradish ribbons (No. 98). Skim the fat from the stock, add a seasoning of oil, vinegar, salt, mignonette, capers and gherkins, and serve in a sauce-boat when cold. Place on the bone the silver handle shown in Fig. 164. (2531). LOBSTER OR SPINY LOBSTER A LA RAVIGOTE (Homard on Langouste a la Ravigote). Boil a lobster in a plain court-bouillon (No. 38) and let it cool off under a weight with the tail stretched out. Remove the tail meats from underneath, leaving the shell attached to the body; pare the meats on the thickest end and cut them up into slightly bias slices so as to have them somewhat wider; season and place them flat on a tinned-copper tray; decorate the tops with lobster, eggs, tarragon leaves and chervil; cover the decorations with half-set jelly and keep in a cool place. Break the shells of the large claws so as to remove the meats and divide these in two lengthwise, then brush them over with half-set aspic jelly (No. 103). Cut in dice the meats of a small boiled lobster, put the pieces in a bowl with an equal quantity of cooked truffles, a few spoonfuls of cooked mushrooms and raw gherkins; season this salpicon and stir it on ice into some thick mayonnaise (No. 606), and with it cover ten to twelve small cooked equal-sized artichoke bottoms. Turn over the lobster body and fill the empty tail with thick jelly pushed through a pocket; dress at once in its natural state, the red side uppermost, on a long dish, moistening it with half-set jelly, laid on with a brush, to prevent the lobster from slipping off. On the top of the shell, from one end to the other, push two thick strings of butter previously softened in a cloth and an inch and a quarter apart; between these strings range a bed of chopped jelly, and on top of this dress the slices of lobster, one overlapping the other. On the right and left of the head lay the jelly covered claws and around the body have chopped jelly surrounded with the garnished artichoke bottoms, and around them a border of pretty jelly croutons (No. 2442). Serve at the same time a ravigote sauce (No. 623), having the creamy parts of the lobster added to it. (2532). LOBSTER IN A BORDER (Homard en Bordure). Cut into quarter-inch squares, on the bias, the tail meat of two boiled lobsters, also the claws cut into four pieces; lay them in a deep dish and season with salt, oil and vinegar. Incrust in COLD SERVICE. 769 ice a plain border mold (Fig. 139), coat the inside with clear jelly (No. 103); cut some hard-boiled eggs into four pieces, that is once lengthwise and then each half egg once across; fasten to the yolks small sprigs of green chervil dipped in jelly, and fill the border mold with these eggs; then pour into the bottom a little melted jelly; let it set, add about half an inch more, and when this begins to harden fill up the mold, and let it remain on ice until the jelly is perfectly firm; then turn the mold over on a cold dish. Fill the inside empty space as high as the jelly with a vegetable salad (No. 2650), thickened with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); dress on top the slices of lobster, covering the whole with jellied mayonnaise; cover with more jelly, and set on top the claws dipped in jelly. A mayonnaise printaniere (No. 612) should be served separately. (2533). LOBSTER TAILS IN THEIR SHELLS (Queues de Homards dans leurs Coquilles). Detach the bodies, claws and tails from five small cooked lobsters; open the claw shells to remove the meats. Cut the five lobster tails lengthways, both meat and shell together; remove the meats from these ten halved shells, wipe the shells neatly, and fill the bottoms with a layer of preparation made with the lobster parings, truffles and mushrooms, mingled with a little chaudfroid sauce (No. 606), and finished with a dash of cayenne pepper. Season the tail meats and cut them FIG. 509. up slanting without spoiling their shape, and dip them into half-set jelly; then replace each one in its half shell, the red side uppermost, and lay them aside. in a cool place. This entree is to be dressed on a dish foundation having in the center a pyramidical support, both of which are to be covered with white paper, then with a layer of thick chopped jelly pushed through a pocket; the halved tails are to be dressed with the points upward, five on each side; the claws are to stand upright on top of the support, and surrounded by green parsley leaves. The base of the halved tails is also to be surrounded by fresh parsley, and the bottom of the dish with pretty jelly croutons (No. 2442). As soon as the entree is dressed place it in the ice-box until ready to serve, then send it to the table with a separate mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). (2534). LOBSTER OR SPINY LOBSTER WITH MAYONNAISE (Horaard ou Langouste k la Mayonnaise). Cook a large lobster; drain and let get cold with the tail stretched out. Detach the large claws and divide the body lengthwise in two; remove the meats whole from each halved tail, and cut them up slanting, but without deforming them. Wipe well the empty tail shells and fill them half way with chopped jelly, then return the meats to the shells upside down so that the red part is uppermost. Suppress the black vein from the center of the bodies, also the creamy parts, and rub these through a sieve and add them to a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). Dress the two halves of the lobster on a napkin or dish, and in the hollow space formed by the shells place a bunch of parsley leaves; on this dress the lobster claws in their shells, after suppressing half of them, and surround the lobster on the bottom of the dish with a string of chopped jelly, and around this lay either croutons of jelly or halved hard-boiled eggs filled with a salad of vegetables (No. 2650); serve the mayonnaise sauce separately. (2535). MOUSSELINES OF POIES-GRAS A LA DANA (Mousselines de Poies-Gras a la Dana). Prepare a frothy preparation with foies-gras in the following manner: Pound one pound of foies- gras taken from a terrine, pass the pulp through a sieve, season, lay it in a thin iron vessel and beat well, adding a gill of melted glaze (No. 402) and two gills of brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), tc 770 THE: EPICUREAN. make the preparation of a good consistency when cold. After it has become smooth stir in slowly the equal quantity of a pint of well-drained whipped cream without sugar. Range on pounded ice fifteen quenelle molds (Fig. 76); cover the insides of these to half their height with the frothy preparation, forming a hollow in the center, and into this lay a slice of foies-gras three-sixteenths of an inch thick and cut egg-shaped; finish filling the molds with the same preparation, smooth the tops, having them perfectly fiat, and then set the molds on ice for one hour. Dip them into hot water, unmold the mousselines on a cold baking sheet and cover each one with brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). After this has become quite cold dress the mousselines in a pyramid inside a jelly border. Garnish around the border with clear jelly cut into very small dice, and outside of this place a row of jelly croutons (No. 2442). (2536). MOUSSELINE OF KINGFISH A LA BKIEKE (Mousseline de Kingfish a la Briere). Scale two or three fresh kingfish, weighing about two pounds; suppress the head and thin tail end, the fins and gills. Put into a sautoir two soupspoonfuls of chopped onions and shallots, add half a pound of clarified butter cooked to hazelnut (No. 567) and fry the onions and shallots lightly; put in the well-wiped fish and season with salt, nutmeg, a dash of cayenne, a pinch of thyme leaves and bay leaf ; fry over a brisk fire until done. Remove the skin, pour the whole into a sieve laid over a large dish, so as to be able to collect all the liquid and butter, and let this as well as the fish get cold on ice. Take all the bones out of the fish and pound the meat, adding gradually the well-strained butter and liquid, also a few spoonfuls of good bechamel sauce (No. 409) reduced with the fish stock. Press this forcemeat through a sieve and smooth it in a vessel, mixing in with it slowly a few spoonfuls of very thick jelly (No. 103); try a small part of this preparation in a small mold on ice, and if not quite firm add more dissolved jelly until perfectly thick. When cold on the ice incorporate into it slowly about one pint of very firmly whipped cream, drained and sugarless. Stir the preparation again for a few moments, then pour it into a high mold incrusted on ice, coated with jelly, and bestrew with chervil leaves; let the mousseline harden for a couple of hours and at the last moment dip the mold into hot water so as to easily unmold it on a rice foundation two inches high; fill the bottom of the dish with half-set jelly, surround the foundation with quartered hard-boiled eggs standing erect, and these with a string of chopped jelly or jelly croutons. Serve at the same time a sauce-boat of mayonnaise (No. 606), finished with tarragon and chopped chervil. (2537). MOUSSELINE OF LOBSTER (Mousseline de Eomard). Select a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) and incrust it in pounded ice; cut some crosswise slices of large green gherkins, of equal size and thickness, lift them up with the pointed end of a larding needle, dip into half-set jelly, and then arrange them symmetrically against the sides of the mold; FIG. 510. coat this decoration lightly with jelly. Cut up into quarter-inch dice the claw meat of four lobsters and enclose them in a small saucepan. Pound the tail meat with two or three spoonfuls of bechamel (No. 409), pass it through a sieve and return it to the mortar to pound once more, adding three or four gills of blond chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), a few spoonfuls of jelly (No. 103) and a few drops of tarragon vinegar; season highly and set the preparation in a saucepan to thicken lightly while stirring on ice; incorporate into this five or six spoonfuls of well-drained whipped cream. After COLD SERVICE. 77J this preparation is well smoothed add to it the dice pieces of claw meat and with the whole fill up the coated mold; put on ice for one hour. Just when ready to serve dip the mold in warm water and invert the contents on a dish having a small support fastened to the center; on top of this place a hatelet garnished with fine shrimps or crawfish of graduated sizes, and serve at the same time a separate mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). (2538). MOUSSELINE OF PHEASANTS, PKINOESS (Mousseline de Faisans, Princesse). This cold entree is dressed on a carved rice croustade slightly hollowed out on top to form an outspreading ledge. Incrust in chopped ice a plain pyramidical flat-top mold. Take the meat of two breasts of cooked pheasants and half a cooked foies-gras; with these make a preparation th same as for a chaudfroid of fillets of pheasants (No. 2456); before thickening it on ice put a quarter of this into a saucepan and incorporate in it two spoonfuls of black pounded truffles; thicken the two preparations separately on ice. Moisten the interior of the mold with a brush dipped in jelly, fill it to a third of its height with the white mixture, and when this is cold pour in a layer of the FIG. 511. black one inch deep, and on this another of the white, of the same thickness as the first, then an- other one of black, the same as before, and finish filling with the white; cover with a buttered white paper and leave to cool for two hours. Lastly dip the mold in hot water and turn it over to un- mold on the croustade; surround the base with a row of sticky chopped jelly (No. 2526) and on this lay a chain of small, crimped paper cases, each one filled with a round of truffle. On top of the mousseline fasten a hatelet garnished with mushrooms of graduated sizes, and surround this with chopped jelly; lay around some cases the same as the lower ones, only somewhat smaller, also filled with truffles. (2539). MOUSSELINE OF PULLET (Mousseline de Poularde). Poach in butter four well-pared pullet fillets; when cold pound them with a third of their quantity of the very best butter; season and rub through a sieve. Put this pulp into a thin iron vessel and beat it for five minutes with a spoon to have it smooth, then incorporate slowly three gills of blond chaudfroid sauce (No. 596); try a little of this preparation on ice to rectify if necessary, and when perfect thicken it on ice, stirring in a quarter as many . ; \^VX : "~; : ;; : ^\ truffles, red beef tongue and cooked mushrooms, the whole cut in three-sixteenths of an inch dice, also the volume of a pint of well- drained whipped cream. With this preparation fill an oval mold FIG. 512. decorated with truffles and coated with a light coating of jelly, or else several quenelle molds, covered with half-set jelly, having used a brush for this purpose; then smooth the top nicely and keep the mold on pounded ice for one hour. At the last moment un- mold the mousseline on a cold dish and surround the base with pretty jelly croutons (No. 2442). (2540). MOUSSELINE OF WOODCOCK (Mousseline de Becaeses). Simply dress this on a channeled rice croustade foundation fastened on a dish. Kemove some rounds of cooked truffles with a cutter, and use them to decorate symmetrically the interior sides 772 THE EPICUREAN. and bottom of a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) imbedded in ice, dipping them one by one in half- set jelly to be able to fasten them on, then coat over the entire inside of the mold lightly with half- set jelly. Pound the breast meats of three cooked woodcock with an equal quantity of cooked foies- gras, half as much cooked and chopped-up truffles and a very little of the cooked intestines from the birds; season and pass the whole through a sieve. Put this pulp into a thin metal vessel and stir FIG. 513. into it gradually three gills of brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), increased with a few spoonfuls of warmed jelly (No. 103); the chaudfroid sauce should be reduced with a game fumet (No. 397) pre- pared with the woodcock legs and bones; thicken the preparation properly by stirring it on ice and with it fill up the mold; then harden it on ice for one hour. When needed dip the mold in hot water, wipe dry and invert the mousseline on the rice foundation, surrounding it with a bed of chopped jelly. (2541). TENDERLOIN OF MUTTON A LA HENRY OLAT (Pilets de Mouton a la Henry Olay). Raise the tenderloins from two saddles of mutton, and the sirloins or meats from four racks; remove the skin, pare and lard with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52); season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, fine herbs and shallots. Cover the bottom of a braziere with slices of fat pork, carrots, onions and a bunch of parsley, garnished with thyme, bay leaf and a clove; lay the fillets on top, moisten with stock (No. 194a) and Madeira wine, cover with buttered paper, then bring to a boil and set in the oven for one hour; when done lay them on a deep dish and strain the stock over; glaze and dress on a rice croustade, and garnish around with breasts of mutton in chaudfroid, prepared as follows: Braise the breasts, set them under a weight to cool, pare by removing the skin and fat, and then cut the meat into small half-hearts; cover their surfaces with foies-gras taken from a terrine, pounded and rubbed through a sieve; when cold mask them with chaudfroid made with the fillet and breast stock, and some poivrade (No. 523) added, and when cold pare and trim with fancy favors (No. 10). Dress them in a circle, one overlapping the other, around the rice socle, and outside of the breasts place chopped jelly surrounded by jelly croutons (No. 2442) cut very regular and dressed symmetrically. Serve at the same time a sauce-boat of printaniere mayon< naise (No. 612). (2542). SMALL "PAINS" OF OAFON WITH TARRAGON (Petits Fains de Ohapon a 1'Estragon). Select some timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137), imbed them in chopped ice, and decorate the bottoms and sides with cut-up gherkins and blanched tarragon leaves, beinsr careful to dip these decorations in half-set jelly when using. Take the value of two or three gills of capon puree, and mix with it a few spoonfuls of veloute sauce (No. 415); put this into a small saucepan and dissolve gradually with a gill of good aspic jelly (No. 103) and a few spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar. Stir this prepa- ration on ice to thicken, and use it to fill the empty molds. One hour later dip these timbales in warm water; unmold the timbales and dress them at once in a circle on a cold dish. Garnish the center with chopped jelly and around with jelly croutons. (2543). SMALL "FAINS" OF CHICKEN A L'EOARLATE (Petits Pains de Volaille a 1'Ecarlate). This entree requires to be dressed on a wooden foundation fastened on a dish; cover it with white paper, and decorate its thickness with a border in relief; in the center of this foundation place a woodet: support also covered, it being as high as a six-sided timbale mold about the same size as timbale No. 1, Fig. 137. Pound the white meats of a large chicken with an equal quan- tity of foies-gras, both to be cooked; add two spoonfuls of veloute sauce (No. 415), season and COLD SERVICE. 773 strain through a sieve. Put this pulp into a thin metal vessel, and mix in an equal quantity of liquid blond chaudfroid (No. 596), and four spoonfuls of cooked truffles cut in small dice. Incrust the molds on ice; coat with half-set jelly, and line the sides only with narrow strips of red beef tongue, cut the same height as the molds. Thicken the preparation on ice and with it fill the lined FIG. 514. molds; leave to harden for one hour. When required for serving, dip the molds in hot water in order to unmold the "pains," and dress them on the foundation around the support, placing one on its summit; decorate all the tops with a large mushroom head channeled through the thickness and hollowed in the center so that it is capable of holding a small truffle ball. On the central " pain " fasten a small hatelet garnished with a truffle and cocks'-comb slightly larger than the rest. (2544). SMALL "PAINS" OF CHICKEN A LA FKEYCINET (Petits Pains de Poulet k la Freycinet). Have a baking tin with a raised border an inch and a half high; range on it some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), and surround them with finely chopped ice: pour into the bottom of each mold some jelly to an eighth of an inch in thickness and on top set a round slice of truffle a quarter of an inch narrower than the diameter of the bottom mold; decorate the sides with fanciful cuts of truffles or egg-white dipped in half-set jelly; coat over the interior of the mold or else brush it with a layer of the jelly and fill it up with the following preparation: Pound half a pound of the white meat of a braised and cold chicken to a pulp, after removing the skin, fat and bones; add to it half a pint of veloute sauce (No. 415) well reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392) and a pint of jelly (No. 103); pass the whole through a tammy into a thin metal bowl and lay it on ice; incor- porate and mix well with it the same quantity of whipped cream, drained for two hours on a sieve. Fill the molds half full and place in the center a ball of foies-gras taken from a terrine with a round five-eighths of an inch vegetable spoon dipped in hot water; finish filling up with the prep- aration, smooth the tops and let get thoroughly cold. Unmold the timbales and dress them in a circle on a cut-out rice socle two inches high by eight inches in diameter; place in the center of the socle a sloping support, having it three inches high and five inches in circumference at the base and two inches in circumference on the top; on this top fasten a stearine cup, filling it with very small black and glazed truffles. (2545). "PAIN" OF GAME A LA BAETHOLDI (Pain de Gibier k la Bartholdi). Have made beforehand a round wooden socle nine inches and a half in diameter by two and a half inches in height. At half an inch from its top have a curve two inches high in the shape of an ogive, reducing the part that rests on the dish to the diameter of eight and a half inches: also hollow it out a quarter of an inch deep on top, leaving a three-quarter-inch border all around; exactly in the center bore a half-inch hole through the entire depth. Moisten the socle lightly, and cover it over with noodle paste (No. 142), or English paste (No. 134), rolled out very thin, and let dry in the air; then glaze it over with very light meat glaze (No. 402), and decorate by applying to the glaze fancifully cut pieces of either of the pastes used or a wreath of flowers. Make one or two preparations (the cut represents only one), one white with partridge meat, and the other brown with grouse meat. For the White Preparation. Pound one pound of the white meat of some braised cold par- tridges, boned and free of fat; add to it half a pound of foies-gras, and continue to mash the two 774 THE: together, adding one pint of veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with the braised stock, strained and skimmed, having added to it an ounce of well-dissolved gelatine; strain the whole through a fine sieve, and set it away to get cold in a metal vessel. Instead of gelatine half a pound of very clear jelly (No. 103) may be substituted. For the Brown Preparation. Proceed exactly the same as for the white, but instead of the white partridge meat and veloute sauce use grouse or prairie chicken meat and espagnole sauce (No. 414), reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392); strain through a fine sieve, and lay it aside in a metal vessel. Fry two young and tender prairie hens in butter with chopped- up fresh mushrooms; season with salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, and let them get cold. Bone and suppress the skin, pound the meat to a pulp and rub it through a sieve; mix in a few spoonfuls of game quenelle forcemeat (No. 91), and add and mingle to the whole the same quantity of truffles, tongue, liver and pistachios, all cut up in small three-sixteenths of an inch squares. Line some small mousseline molds (No. 3, Fig. 138), with very thin slices of fat pork, and fill them FIG. 515. up with the above preparation; arrange them on a baking sheet, one beside the other, without allowing them to touch, and bake them in a slack oven; leave them to cool off under a weight; decorate No. 2 mousseline molds, either with truffles, egg-white, or pistachios; coat with a thin layer of jelly; pour a quarter-inch thick layer of jelly in the bottom of the mold; when cold place the contents of the No. 3 mousselin molds on it, and finish filling with jelly; keep in a cool place. Incrust in chopped ice a mold made in graduated tiers. The design as represented is plain, with- out any decoration; if decorated, then decorate the upper edge of the sides of each tier with fanci- ful cuts of truffle and egg-white dipped in half-set jelly; coat over evenly the inside of the mold with jelly. Place the two preparations on ice, beat them up well and fill the bottom tier with the brown preparation; lay in the center some slices of truffle and let it get cold; then fill another tier with white preparation, usingslices of foies-gras instead of truffles, and continue the same operation until the mold is all filled; then let it get quite cold, leaving it on the ice for several hours so as to harden the contents. Unmold the " pain " on to the socle, ran through the center a wooden sup- port which must be made to hold up the subject on its summit, and decorate each tier with jelly croutons cut into long triangles, having the pointed end cut off and dressed upright; the height of these croutons for the lower tier dressed on the socle must be an inch and a half, then diminish COLI3 SERVICE. the height one-eighth of an inch for each tier, so that those on the fifth tier are only one inch high; decrease their thickness and width also. Stick on top of the support a stearine figure in imitation of the statue of Liberty. Push through a cornet between all the croutons some finely chopped jelly, and decorate the bottom of the socle as high as the basin with more chopped jelly; or sur- round the base with the same mousseline-shaped timbales. (2546). "PAIN" OP GAME, DIANA (Pain de Gibier a la Diane). This " pain " is dressed on a socle, the frieze being upheld by the trunk of a tree having many branches, these to form a support; the branches are modeled over wire, the surface of the base is covered with foliage and the frieze decorated with leaves and flowers. On top of the socle place a surtout of carved rice of similar shape, to be ten inches long by seven inches wide, or one of tin covered with noodle paste (No. 142). Have three oval molds, the largest ten inches long, by seven inches wide and two inches high, the medium-sized one eight and five-eighths inches long, and FIG. 516. three and a half inches high and five and a quarter inches wide; the smallest to be seven and one- eighths inches long, four and five-eighths inches wide and three inches high. Line the inside of these molds with slices of fat pork an eighth of an inch thick. Make three different preparations, one for each mold; for the largest have a young hare "pain" preparation, made as follows: Cut two pounds of young hare meat into large squares; fry in melted chopped fat pork with mush- rooms, truffles and fine herbs, salt, aromatics and spices; when the hare is cooked take from the fire and set away to cool, then pound it well, adding four egg-yolks, half a pound of foios-gras 776 THE EPICUREAN. from a terrine and one pound of cream panada (No. 120). After all has been well pounded and passed through a sieve, add six ounces of unsmoked cooked beef tongue, half a pound of truffles and one pound of calves' udder, all cut in three-eighths inch squares; mix thoroughly and fill the largest mold; stand it in a sautoir with boiling water and let bake in a slack oven for three hours; cool under a weight, unmold and remove the fat part from the bottom and sides, pare the " pain '' neatly, smooth and set it in the ice-box. For the medium-sized mold prepare the following: Cut two pounds of prairie-hen meat in squares, fry on a brisk fire in grated fat pork and as soon as cooked remove, cool and pound well, adding the same quantity of grated fresh fat pork; pound all thor- oughly together, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Pound eight ounces of panada and mix it slowly into the preparation, press it through a sieve and mingle into this forcemeat a quarter of a pound of truffles cut in quarter-inch squares and as much fat pork cut exactly the same. With this preparation fill the medium-sized mold, having lined it with slices of fat pork an eighth of an inch thick; stand it in a sautoir with boiling water and let cook in a slow oven for two hours and a half, then cool under a weight. Unmold the "pain," pare and smooth it and leave it in the ice-box. For the smallest mold pound thoroughly one pound of roasted pheasant, partridge or quail meat from which all bones, fat, skin and sinews have been removed, with half a pound of foies-gras from a terrine; season, strain, return to a vessel and add a pint of cold half-glaze sauce (No. 413) well reduced with essence of mushrooms (No. 392) and twelve egg-yolks. Fill the mold with this preparation, stand it in a flat .saucepan containing boiling water, place it in the oven, and when poached, cool, unmold and set it in the ice-box. After cleaning the molds well apply the lozenges correctly, dipping each one in half-set cold jelly. Begin at the bottom of the mold with a lozenge of egg-white cut in half across its length, keeping the lozenges of truffles on the right and the lozenges of tongue on the left. The beauty of this decoration consists in applying and joining them nicely, putting them rather close on the bottom of the mold and a little further away toward the top to allow for the spread of the mold. Coat each mold with jelly (No. 103), having it an eighth of an inch thick at the bottom, and leave it to cool. The lozenges for the large mold are one and three-eighths inches long by three-quarters of an inch wide; for the medium size, one and a quarter inches long by one and one-sixteenth inches wide; and for the smallest, one and one-eighth inches long by five-eighths of an inch wide. Put the " pains " into these decorated molds and finish filling with cold jelly that is not set; stand them in the ice-box for six hours, then unmold the largest carefully on the rice surtout. On the largest place the next size and the smallest on top; in the center of this one place a pretty subject, and at each end of it fasten a garnished hatelet and two larger ones below on the lower " pain." Surround the base of the surtout with jelly croutons (No. 2442). (2547), "PAIN" OP LIVER WITH SALPIOON (Pain de Foie au Salpicon). Mince a pound and a quarter of raw calf's liver; fry it quickly in melted fat pork with aromatic herbs, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, truffle and mushroom peelings and chopped blanched shallot; remove as soon as done and leave to cool, then mix in four ounces of foies-gras parings from a terrine. Pound and return it to the mortar and add slowly one pound and a half of chopped raw veal and fat pork, the same as a galantine; pound the whole well together, press once more through a sieve and season properly. Put this preparation into a vessel and stir in a third as much truffles, cooked veal udder and cooked red beef tongue, all cut into small squares. Cover the bottom and sides of a large charlotte mold with thin slices of fat pork; put the preparation in the center and cover over with more pork; place the mold in a saucepan containing hot water to reach a third of its height; let this come to a boil, then remove to a slower fire or a slack oven. Cook the " pain '' for an hour and a quarter and leave to cool for four hours; unmold, take off the pork to smooth the surfaces neatly, then glaze and decorate with fanciful cuts of gherkin, red beef tongue and truffles dipped in half-set jelly. Dress on a bread crouton covered with ravigote butter (No. 583) and dec- orate around with chopped jelly and croutons (No. 2442). (2548). "PAIN" OF PARTRIDGES A LA MONTGOMERY (Pain de Perdreaux a la Montgomery). Cut three raw partridges in pieces as for a sauted chicken, fry with chopped fat pork, truffles, mushrooms, fine herbs, salt, aromatics and spices; when well done, put aside to cool, remove the meat and divide in half-inch squares, then pouad and add nine egg-yolks, half a pound of foies- gras, and three-quarters of a pound of flour and milk panada (No. 121); when a smooth pulp is ob- tained press it through a sieve and mingle in six ounces of salted, unsmoked red beef tongue, nine ounces of truffles, and fifteen ounces of udder, all to be cut into three-sixteenths inch dice. Fill a plain oval dome-shaped mold six inches long by four inches wide with the preparation; cover with COLD SERVICE. 777 fat pork, and then set it in a sautoir with a little water and cook in a slack oven for three hours; turn it out after it is thoroughly cold, remove the fat pork, smooth the surfaces and set it in a larger mold decorated with truffles, coated with a light coat of white jelly (No. 103), and another one of white chaudfroid (No. 596); finish filling the mold with jelly, and when exceedingly cold invert it on a bread support two inches high covered with lobster butter (No. 580); surround with chopped jelly, and garnish around the support with jelly croutons and cases of thrushes prepared as follows: Bone some thrushes, keeping one leg on each that must not be boned; stuff the birds with game forcemeat (No. 91), season with salt, pepper, mushrooms, parsley and truffles, all to be finely chopped. Then also cook some whole truffles, rounded to an inch in diameter, and when both of these are cold glaze the birds over with brown chaudfroid (No. 594), and decorate the leg with a favor frill (No. 10); lay the thrushes in oval cases, and the truffles in small round ones; arrange all of them around the support intercalating the birds and truffles. (2549). "PAIN" OP YOUNG BABBIT (Pain de Levraut). Suppress all the meats from a young rabbit, also the skin and sinews, and use the bones to make a game fumet (No. 397). Fry in butter the large fillets, the minion fillets and the leg meats; as soon as they are cooked take them out of the sautoir. When cold pound the leg meats finely, adding the fillets, and minion fillets then pound again with half as much cooked foies-gras, season and rub through a fine sieve. Put this pulp into a thin metal basin, and beat it for a few moments with a spoon in order to have it smooth, and incorporate into it slowly three gills of brown chaudfroid (No. 594), some game glaze (No. 398), and melted gelatine. Try a little of this preparation on ice to judge its consistency, and if not correct thicken it at once by beating it for a few moments longer on the ice, while mixing in more melted gelatine add two ounces of fresh butter broken into small bits, and when of a proper consistency stir in a few spoonfuls of cooked truffles cut in dice pieces, and an equal quantity of red beef tongue cut the same. Pour the whole into a plain cylinder mold coated over with a little half-set jelly applied with a brush, and imbed the mold on chopped ice; harden the contents for a couple of hours, then unmold it on a cold dish; surround with chopped jelly and croutons (No. 2442). (2550). KOAST LARDED PARTRIDGES (Perdreaux Piques etRotis). Truss two partridges after singeing, drawing and cleaning them well; lard them and roast either on the spit or in the oven. Let get cold, and when ready to use glaze them over with a brush dipped in game glaze (No. 398), and dress, either whole or cut up, on a dish and surround with jelly. (2551), POKE LIVER PIE OR TERRINE (Pat6 ou Terrine de Poles de Pore). Terrine. Take three pounds of the breast of fresh pork, chop it finely into a forcemeat; chop separately two pounds of pig's liver after soaking it in cold water and straining through a sieve. Put the whole into a vessel large enough to have all thoroughly mixed, add one-third of an ounce of salt for each pound and one coffeespoonful of pepper for the same quantity, prepared red pepper (No. 168), nutmeg to taste, a pinch of chopped parsley, a bay leaf, a pinch of thyme, six eggs and three and a half ounces of flour; stir the whole thoroughly until a very smooth paste is obtained. Line the bottom of one or several earthen jars, fit to be put in the oven, with slices of fat pork, then fill them with the paste; cover with another slice, having notched the fibrous parts; place it in the oven and let bake slowly. A terrine weighing four to five pounds requires three to four hours to bake. When done drain off the fat and replace it with good melted leaf lard, cover with a board and place a two-pound weight on top. After it is cold cover with a light layer of lard, and serve either in the same jar, or else cut it with a spoon. Pie. The above preparation can also be made into a pie by baking it in a mold, proceeding as directed in No. 2557. (2552). ROAST PEACOCK ADORNED WITH ITS PLUMAGE (Paon Roti et Par6 de son Plumage) Procure a young peacock with very brilliant plumage; cut off half of the rump with the tail feathers attached to it and spread them into a fan, then dry; also remove the wings with their plumage and the head with all the beautiful neck feathers as far down as the breast, including the ?78 THE: EPICUREAN. skin; stuff the neck with wadding and insert a stiff wire in the middle to hold it in its natural position. Pick the peacock, draw, singe and free it of feathers; truss for roasting (No. 179) and stuff with a dressing made with a pound of soaked and well-pressed bread-crumbs, the same quantity of chopped beef marrow, and season with spices (No. 168), chopped shallot fried colorless in butter and raw liver chopped up finely. Cook in a moderate oven, basting over frequently with butter, and when cold dish it up on a carved rice socle; adorn it with its plumage; surround with chopped jelly and a border of jelly croutons (No. 2442) and serve separately a cold poivrade sauce (No. 620). (2553;. PHEASANT STUFFED A LA PRINCE OELOFF (Faisan Farci a la Prince Orloff). Open a fresh pheasant through the back; bone it, leaving on the pinions and drumsticks, then season the meats. Take all the meat from another fresh pheasant and chop it up finely, mixing in an equal quantity of chopped fresh fat pork; season this forcemeat and add to it a quarter of its quantity of cooked foies-gras cut in large dice and as much truffles. Use this preparation to fill the boned pheasant, bring the meats together and sew it up, giving it its original form; truss and brush over with butter, then wrap it in a fine cloth, tying it well, and cook it very slowly for an hour and a quarter in good stock (No. 194a). Drain off the pheasant, untie and wrap it again in the same cloth after washing it, then let get cold. One hour before serving unwrap the pheasant, separate the back from the breast, cutting it off, then divide this in two lengthwise pieces; cut the two halves in transversal slices, reshape and put the breast back into its former place from whence it was taken. Cover the whole pheasant with a white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596) reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 397) and afterward thickened on ice. Place the pheasant on ice till needed and then decorate the pinions with paper frills (No. 10); now dress it on a small oval foundation covered over with white paper and fastened on a long dish; surround it with a thick cord of chopped jelly pushed through a pocket, and decorate the edges of the dish with jelly croutons (No. 2442) and two clusters of medium-sized stuffed truffles. (2554). CHICKEN PIE-TO BE OUT UP (Pat< de Poulet pour DScouper). Procure two oblong corrugated pie molds ten inches long, four inches high and four inches wide, buttered with cold butter; stand them on a sheet of buttered paper, and line with pie paste (No. 144). Bone thoroughly four tender chickens of about two and a half pounds each; suppress the fat and thigh sinews, also the minion fillets; season with No. 2 pie spices (No. 168). Put into a vessel some ham, tongue, truffles and fat pork, all cut in three-eighths of an inch squares; season and baste with Madeira wine. Prepare a forcemeat with one pound of finely chopped pork free from sinews, and one pound of fresh fat pork; mix together and chop once more; season. Cover the bottom and sides of the paste with this forcemeat, and fill the pie in alternate layers with chicken forcemeat and the salpicon, finishing the whole with forcemeat; cover with thin slices of fat pork; on top place a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme. Cover with a flat of the same paste, fasten both together, clip off the surplus paste around the edge, form and pinch a crest, and cover the whole with another flat made of puff paste parings (No. 146); egg over and cook in a slack oven for two hours. Should the crust brown too quickly, lay over a double sheet of wetted paper, and when the pie is done remove and let cool partly; fill it up with consistent jelly made from the fragments of chicken, and after the pie is thoroughly cold cut it into slices, and dress in a straight row on a cold dish surrounded by chopped jelly and croutons (No. 2442). (2555). DUCKLING PIE A LA EOUENNAISE (Pate de Cannetoa a la Eouennaise). Prepare two pounds of cold pie paste (No. 144), having it rather firm; let it rest for an hour and a half in a cool place. Cut off the pinions, legs and necks from two clean ducklings, bone them entirely, leave the fillets adhering to the skin, remove half the fillet through its thickness and lay on the skin that has no fillet, and detach the meat from the legs to suppress the sinews, then chop up finely; in with this mix a pound and three-quarters of boned turkey forcemeat (No. 65); pound both together for a few moments with four ounces of chopped truffles and four ounces of raw chopped ham, seasoning with No. 2 pie spices (No. 168). Place this forcemeat in a bowl and add to it a third of its volume of baked liver forcemeat (No. 64), passed through a sieve, also a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and half a pound of blanched fat pork cut in quarter-inch squares. Prick the skin of the boned ducklings with a larding needle and fill their insideswith a part of the force- meat, placing the liver well seasoned in the center; reshape the duck to its original appearance. With the bones and parings prepare a succulent stock. Place on a small baking sheet covered with strong, well buttered paper a smooth oval hinged mold; line this mold with two-thirds of the paste and cover the bottom and sides with thin slices of fat pork; on this place a layer of the forcemeat and set COLD SERVICE. 779 one of the stuffed ducklings on the bottom, then cover over with more forcemeat and another duck- ling on top, finishing with the remainder of the forcemeat, having it dome-shaped on the top, then cover with thin slices of fat pork and over this place a flat of the same paste; press it down on the base of the dome and against the projecting edges of paste to fasten the two together; cut away any surplus paste close to the edges and pinch it with a pair of pincers, or else decorate the dome with fanciful cuts of the same paste; cut a small hole exactly in the center, which is intended to act as a chimney for the steam to escape. Egg over the surface and set the pie in a moderate oven; as soon as it begins to brown cover over with paper and cook for an hour and a half. An hour after the pie has been removed from the oven pour in through the opening on top a few spoonfuls of duck fumet (No. 397) reduced to a half-glaze and mixed with a little Madeira wine and jelly; close the opening with a pad of paste. Half an hour later take off the mold and let the pie cool for twelve hours before serving. (2556). GAME PIE DEESSED A LA LESAGE (Patfi de Gibier DressS a la Lesage). Prepare six pounds of cold pie paste, the same being described in No. 144; after it has well rested roll out three-quartet's of it to three-eighths of an inch in thickness; raise the paste with the hands several times, leaving it rest between each; place it on a sheet of buttered paper, and when it attains the height of about six inches, is rounded and properly equalized, thicker on, the bottom than on the top, then pinch on the outside a row toward the right, another toward the left, and wrap several strong sheets of buttered paper around and tie vdth several strings. Fill the bottom and sides with bards of fat pork, and on the bottom spread a layer of forcemeat made of three pounds of pork meat, one pound of young rabbit meat, four pounds of fat pork, six ounces of prepared No. 2 pie spices (No. 168), and ten egg-yolks. Having finely chopped and pounded all these ingredients together, spread a layer in the bottom of the pie, and over it place a boned pheasant with the inside meats larded with fat pork and ham, and seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley, chives and chopped bay leaf, and filled with some of this same forcemeat. Bone twelve woodcock and prepare them the same as the pheasant. Cut into three-sixteenth inch squares some carrots and onions; fry the onions first in butter, add the carrots and the woodcock intestines; moisten with a little broth and Madeira wine, and as soon as done (that is, when the moisture is thoroughly reduced) pound all finely and press through a sieve; let stand till cold, then mix into it some of the above forcemeat, adding eight ounces of cooked lean ham cut in one-eighth inch squares, and four ounces of chopped truffle peelings. Fill the boned woodcock, and in the center of each lay a small peeled truffle. Place eight of these birds around the pheasant, cover with more of the forcemeat, and in the center set the four remaining ones, with whole truffles laid around, also eight partridge fillets larded with lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), and seasoned; cover with more of the forcemeat to form a dome, and on this lay thin slices of fat pork and a little thyme and bay leaf on top. Wet the edges of the pie, and lay over a cover of the rolled-out paste; fasten both together, cut the crust straight, equalize it and pinch it all around; make a chimney on the top, place several rows of noodle paste (No. 142) leaves on, and in the center arrange a noodle paste artichoke made as follows: Take a flat of paste about one-sixteenth of an inch thick, fold it in two three times, then roll it in a ball an inch and a quarter across, make two cross-shape incisions half an inch deep on the centre of the ball so as to divide it in eight parts partly open to represent an antichoke; egg over several times and bake in a moderate oven for three or four hours; leave it to cool partly, then fill the pie either with game fumet (No. 397) mixed with jelly or with chaudfroid (No. 594) made with essence of game (No. 397) or else with fresh butter and lard mixed, half and half. Filling it in this way the pie will keep much longer. It will take nearly twenty-four hours to thoroughly cool off a pie of this size. (2557). GOOSE PIE A LA ADOLPHE HAKDY-HLLETS (Pate de Filets d'Oie k la Adolphe Hardy). The Crust for the Pie. Make a pie paste with three pounds of flour and one pound of butter, as described In pie paste No. 144; keep it in a cool place to rest for two hours. Have a round, plain, bottomless mold six and a half inches in diameter by six inches in height; line it with some strong buttered paper. Roll out three-quarters of the paste to a round, eighteen inches in diameter and half an inch in thickness; dredge it with flour; fold it in two. and bring the two ends toward the center in the shape of a pocket; equalize the thickness of the paste by using the rolling pin. Line the unbuttered mold with it, pressing it against the sides, and having it a little thicker toward the bottom; leave for two hours on ice, unmold and pinch it all around, beginning at the bottom and inclining the pinching toward the left, and the second row toward the right; surround the pie by another mold, a quarter of an inch wider and a quarter of an inch higher than the last 780 THE EPICUREAN. one; till the bottom and sides of the pie with sheets of buttered paper, and fill it either with rice or very dry flour; cover over with a round of paper, wet the upper edges and over the top lay a flat of the same paste; fasten the two together and cut away the paste from the border, three-quarters of an inch higher than the mold; pinch it all around and on top; cut a hole in the center, and insert therein a cardboard tube, called a chimney. Decorate the cover or dome with leaves or flowers made of thin noodle paste (No. 142), brush with egg twice, and leave for one hour in the ice- box; form a small artichoke (No. 2556) of exceedingly thin noodle paste; egg it over twice and bake it in a small noodle-paste ring. Bake the pie crust or timbale in a moderate oven for one hour, having it assume a beautiful color; as soon as done cut off the cover at the base of the dome by slipping a small thin knife between the two pastes; remove the cover, empty the inside rice and paper, and glaze the interior with a brush dipped in melted meat glaze. Terrine of Goose Fillets. Have half a pound of the kernel or bottom round of veal, remove the sinews, chop and pound it up finely. Chop separately a pound of fresh fat pork, mix the two together, season with pie spices (No. 168), and pound the whole, incorporating in slowly one gill of stock (No. 194a). Lard some goose fillets with medium lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52); season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Cover the bottom and sides of a No. 3 terrine (about two quarts) with thin slices of fat pork, masking over with a layer of the above forcemeat; lay in the fillets more forcemeat and some small, whole, peeled truffles, having alternate layers, and finishing with force- meat well rounded on top; cover with a bard of fat pork, then the lid, and cook for about an hour and a half in a slack oven; let get cold under a light pressure, leaving it on for twenty-four hours; unmold the terrine. suppress all the fat, and lay the contents inside the timbale or pie crust. Cook half a pound of leaf lard, half a pound of butter and the fat suppressed from the terrine; when clarified pass it through a strainer, leave to cool without having it set, then pour it into the pie; lay on the cover and finish filling with more of the fat. Pull out the cardboard chimney, range the paste artichoke on top, and let the pie get thoroughly cold in the ice-box for twelve hours. (2558). HAM PIE (Pat6 de Jambon), Select a fresh, smoked ham, detach the kernel and under kernel; free these meats from their hard parts and cut them into inch and a half squares: if the meat be very salty it will require un- salting either in water or milk for a few hours before cutting up; lard each piece with a bit of truffle, passing it through from one side to the other. Melt half a pound of lard and when hot add to it the squares of ham and fry for a few moments only. Prepare a chopped forcemeat (No. 65); mix iu four ounces of chopped truffle parings, pound the whole and add half a pound of lean and finely chopped cooked ham, and half a pound of fat pork cut in small three-sixteenths inch squai'es; season with red and white pepper, nutmeg and a little salt. Line a cold pie mold with short paste (No. 135), cover the bottom and sides of this with a layer of the prepared hash and fill the center, alternating the squares of ham with another layer of the hash; finish by giving it a dome form on top and cover with bards of fat pork; moisten the inside of the crest with a brush, then add a layer of paste; form this into a pretty crest, pinch the top and sides, egg over twice and range a puff paste (No. 146) cover over the whole, having it only a quarter of an inch thick; egg this twice also, score the entire surface and form a chimney in the center of the paste. Bake for three hours to three hours and a half. Should the pie brown too quickly cover over with strong, wetted paper. Two hours after removing it from the oven pour sufficient good jelly (No. 103) through the chimney to fill it well. (2559). HAEE PIE IN A DISH (Pat6 de Lievre dans nn Plat). Remove the meats from two young hares, keep the tenderloins and minion fillets apart and pare the remainder, suppressing all the skin and sinews; cut the meats into pieces and range them in a sautoir with half a pound of grated fat pork, the liver, the lights, and a tablespoonf ul of finely chopped onions; toss the whole over a brisk fire without letting it attain color, then take off to cool; chop and pound with three-quarters of a pound of grated fresh fat pork and four ounces of fresh pork tenderloins. Pare the reserved tenderloins and minion fillets, cut them in half-inch squares and add to them half a pound of peeled and cut-up truffles; season with salt and pepper and throw over a gill of Madeira wine and as much brandy. Two hours later put in the cooked meats. Line a deep pie dish, fit to go in the oven, with thin slices of fat pork, pour in the preparation and cover with a slice of the same pork, thyme and bay leaf, then lay over a foundation paste (No. 135) cover, egg it twice and bake in a moderate oven; when done allow to cool, remove both cover and pork, clean the dish, place on a folded napkin, then decorate the edges of the pie dish with a border of jelly croutons and the center with chopped jelly. COLD SERVICE. 78J (2560). HAKE PIE WITHOUT A MOLD (Pate de Lievre Sans Moule). Cut some large fillets from the back of a hare, divide them into good-sized square lardons (No. 1, Fig 52) and lay them in a vessel with as much fat pork cut exactly the same size and shape and a few raw truffles cut likewise; season highly and pour over a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine or brandy. Cut off the meats from the legs and shoulders, lay them in a frying pan with melted fat pork and an equal quantity of cut-up calf's liver; season and fry over a brisk fire; as soon as the meats are brown remove to cool; pound and rub this through a sieve, then add this forcemeat to as much chopped fresh pork, raw, pounded and seasoned highly and mixed with cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Roll out on a floured table a flat of cold pie paste (No. 144) twenty inches long by fifteen wide; spread it on a baking sheet and cover the center with a layer of the prepared forcemeat, giving it an oblong shape; then alternate the garnishing and the forcemeat, the last layer being forcemeat, and cover this with thin slices of fat pork. Moisten the edges of the paste, fold over the flaps on the sides so as to enclose the contents, roll out the ends, moisten the top and bring these ends over on the center, wet again and cover with a three-sixteenths of an inch oval flat of puff paste (No. 146), sufficiently large to cover the pie; on this flat make small openings to act as chimneys; put in pasteboard cylinders to uphold the paste. Egg over the paste and score it with the tip of a small knife. Place the pie in a moderate oven to bake, covering the top with sheets of buttered paper, and let cook for two hours. A quarter of an hour after taking it from the oven pour into the holes a few spoonfuls of game furnet (No. 397) mixed with a little Madeira wine and melted jelly (No. 103), then set it aside to cool for twelve hours before serving. This same method may be employed for the preparation of chicken, game or fish pies. (2561). LAMB PIE-LOIN (Pate" de Longe d'Agneau). Bone two loins and two shoulders of spring lamb; cut the loin meats into squares, lard them with larding pork and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and spices. Chop up the shoulder meats free of all sinews and fat and add to it the same weight of fat pork, season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and spice, then pound the whole in a mortar, mixing in a little Madeira wine. Clean well and but- ter a pie mold, line it with ordinary pie paste (No. 144) and cover the bottom and sides with thin slices of fat pork; mask these with a layer of the forcemeat and place some slices of cooked ham on the bottom, then a layer of the forcemeat and the larded squares over, finishing with more force- meat, having the mold quite full and rounded on the top; cover with bards of fat pork and in the center place a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme. Cover the pie with a flat of paste, having a raised edge on the border, pinch it all around and decorate the top with imitation leaves cut from puff or noodle paste and a paste artichoke (No. 2556) in the center. Egg the surfaces and cook in a medium oven, then fill up with jelly when the pie is thoroughly cold. (2562). GOOSE LIVER PIE (Pate" de Foies-Gras). This cold pie, as shown in Fig. 518, is intended for very large suppers. Make a preparation ehe same as terrine of foies-gras, cook it in a long square-shaped tin mold and let get cold under a weight; keep it for five or six hours on ice. Butter a tastefully decorated cold pie mold, lay it on a FIG. 518. baking sheet covered with strong buttered paper, and line it with foundation paste (No. 135) made with egg-yolks; cover the bottom and sides with buttered paper, and fill it up with common flour, then cover with another buttered paper, and close the opening on top with a flat of the same paste, 782 THE EPICUREAN. fastening the two edges together; cut the top straight and pinch it prettily, then egg it over. Cook this paste for one hour and a quarter in a slack oven, so that it acquires a fine color, and as soon as it is removed open it by cutting the cover on a level with the edges and lift it off and empty out the contents; dry the inside for a few moments at a warm heater. When the crust is thoroughly cold unfasten the hinges of the mold so as to remove it, then glaze over the inside with a brush; cover the bottom with a layer of chopped jelly, and on this dress the terrine preparation cut in slices, having them in long squares of equal size and thickness; put the poorest ones at the bottom, and when this garnishing has reached nearly to the top finish filling with the prettiest slices, dress- ing them in a compact circle, and filling the inside of this with fine chopped jelly. Fasten the pie on a cold dish, surround the base with croutons of jelly (No. 2442), and on top of the chopped jelly lay a fine truffle, peeled and cooked in wine. (2563), GOOSE LIVER PIE, OUT UP (Pate de Foies-Gras Decoupa This entree is dressed on a crescent-shaped support, slightly circular, and made of tin; cover it with noodle (No. 142) or cooked paste (No. 131); this support should not be fastened on the center of the dish ; being of a half-circular form it should stand at one side on the edge of the hollow center so that the garnishing can be dressed inside the crescent. Prepare a chopped forcemeat for game pie (No. 67); season it highly and mix with it an equal quantity of baking liver forcemeat (No. 86), pounded and passed through a sieve. Cut into large fillets one good raw foies-gras, set them in a bowl with raw, peeled and quartered truffles; season and pour over a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine or brandy. Butter a large cradle mold, line it with thin foundation paste (No. 135), and fill the bottom and around with the prepared forcemeat; on top of this range the foies-gras, fillets and truffles; cover over with more of the forcemeat, having it slightly rounded on the top, and set over this a flat of the same paste, fastening it well on the outer edges. Make a small opening in the center of the cover, egg it over, then lay this pie on a baking sheet and push it into a moderate oven to cook for one hour and a quarter, being careful to cover the paste with a buttered paper as fast as it browns. After removing it from the fire, pour into the opening a few spoonfuls of jelly (No. 103), mixed with a little melted glaze (No. 402) and Madeira wine. Before cutting the pie into slices it must be urimolded and kept for twenty-four hours in a cool place, so that the paste is slightly softened, otherwise it will be likely to crumble when cutting. Have the slices all of equal thickness, and dress them neatly in a half circle on the support. In the empty space it has formed range a tasteful cluster of round and peeled truffles cooked in wine and glazed over; sur- round these truffles and the pie with a thick piping of chopped jelly forced through a cornet. (2564). COLD STEASBUEG LIVER PIE (Pat6 de Foies-Gras de Strasbourg). Line a pie mold the same as No. 2557. Prepare a forcemeat with half a pound of very fresh lean pork, and half a pound of exceedingly white and fresh lean veal, free of all sinews and fat, FIG. 519. and both chopped finely and separately; chop up the same weight of fat pork, and a half pound of liver; pound and pass through a sieve; pound also half a pound of cooked lean ham with some COLD SERVICE. 783 truffle peelings; rub this also through a sieve, and mix the whole together, seasoning with foies- gras spices (No. 168). Cover the bottom and sides of the pie with a thick layer of this forcemeat, place a fine well-seasoned goose liver in the center, then some peeled truffles, and cover with more forcemeat, rounding it well on top; finish the pie the same as No. 2557, baking it in a slack oven for three hours or more, according to its size; when cold fill it with butter and lard mixed together. (2565). QUAIL PIE (PatS de dailies). Prepare a forcemeat as described in No. 67, and press through a sieve; mix into it a quarter of a pound of plain foies-gras cut in quarter-inch squares; have twelve small peeled truffles. Bone twelve quails, leaving them whole; season and fill with the above forcemeat, and in the center lay one of the truffles; enclose the contents well. Butter a low pie mold, line it with foundation paste (No. 135), and cover the sides and bottom with thin slices of fat pork; over this set a layer of the forcemeat, and then a bed of the quails on the bottom; on top of these place more forcemeat con- taining a salpicon of fat pork and red beef tongue, mixed with an equal quantity of the forcemeat, then another bed of the quails, and finish with forcemeat raised to a dome. Cover with a thin bard of fat pork, some bay leaves, and a flat of the same paste; smooth the summit; pinch all around and on top, and decorate the dome with noodle paste leaves; egg over twice, and bake the pie for two hours and a half; cool partly and then fill with jelly (No. 103) made of quail fumet (No. 397) and Madeira wine. (2566). SALMON PIE (Pat6 de Saumon). Cut four pounds of fresh salmon meat into large fillets; season them with salt and pepper, and put them in a vessel with two or three raw truffles also cut in fillets; pour over a little Madeira wine and leave to macerate for one hour. With some raw pike or gurnet, the salmon parings, panada, butter or veal udder and egg-yolks prepare a delicate forcemeat (No. 90), and when strained place it in a vessel to beat smooth and mix in with it a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and the fish marinade. Butter an oblong metal pie mold selected proportionately to the quantity of fish and forcemeat, lay it on a baking sheet covered with paper and line it with cold pie paste (No. 144). Mask the bottom and sides of this paste with a layer of the forcemeat and in the hollow center dress the fillets of salmon and truffles, alternated by layers of forcemeat; the mold should be full so that when cooked there remains little or no empty space (the top layer must be of the force- meat). Wet the edges of the paste and cover over with a flat of the same, fastening it on the edges; then cut away the paste on a level with the mold and pinch it all around. Cover the top surface above the border with a fake cover meaning a simple layer of puff paste (No. 146) cut the same shape as the top of the pie and in the center of this make a small opening; egg over and decorate the top with designs made with the tip of a small knife, and cook for an hour and a half in a moderate oven, being careful to cover the paste with paper as soon as it becomes dry. A quarter of an hour after the pie has been removed from the oven pour into the hole on top a few spoonfuls of good jelly (No. 103) mixed with fish essence (No. 395) and reduced to a half-glaze, also a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine. Let it get cold for ten hours. At the last moment cut the pie into slices, and dress these, one overlapping the other on a long dish, and surround with chopped jelly and jelly croutons. (2567). SNIPE PIE (Pat6 de BScassines). Peel and cook some truffles in a little Madeira wine, cut them in four and season; singe and bone ten snipe, season them, and with their intestines, a few good chicken livers, some fragments of ham and aromatic herbs, prepare a baking forcemeat (No. 64). Have a chopped game forcemeat (No. 67), pound and mix with it the baking forcemeat in equal quantity, a bit of garlic, and the truffle parings; force the whole through a sieve. With some cold pie paste (No. 144) line a low-hinged bot- tomless mold, place it on a baking sheet over buttered paper, and cover the bottom and sides with the prepared forcemeat; in the hollow center dress the snipe, alternated with more of the chopped forcemeat and the quartered truffles; pile up the mold, cover with thin bards of fat pork, then with a layer of the same paste, fastening it on the edge of the under paste; cut it away evenly and pinch the edges; make a small hole in the top of the dome and decorate the latter with a few imitation noodle paste leaves (No. 142), then egg over both top and border. Cook the pie for an hour and a half to two hours in a moderate oven; after it has been removed pour into the hole on 784 THE EPICUREAN. top some game fumet (No. 397) and finish it the same as a duckling pie (No. 2555). Let it be remembered that if all game pies, such as partridge, pheasant, reedbird, etc., have a slight bit of garlic mixed in with the forcemeat it will add greatly to the aroma, that is if it be not too pre- dominant. (2568). VEAL AND HAM PIE (Pat6 de Veau et de Jambon). Butter a large pie mold, line it with pie paste (No. 144), and lay it on a buttered paper, and this on a tart plate; garnish the insides with thin slices of fat pork. Fill the bottom and sides with forcemeat made with two pounds of fresh pork and veal, half of each, and two pounds of fat pork; season with salt, pepper and fine herbs; on this forcemeat lay slices of cooked lean ham, and over a layer of forcemeat; on this a layer of thick slices of kernel of veal larded with fat pork (No. 2, Fig. 53), and seasoned highly; put in more forcemeat with finely chopped lean ham; place slices of fat pork over, and a bit of thyme and bay leaf; cover with a flat of the same paste, forming a crest, pinch the edges and egg over twice; on top lay a cover of puff paste (No. 146); make a hole in the center to act as a chimney. Egg over twice; bake in a moderate oven for two hours and a half. To be well assured of its being done thrust a trussing needle through, and if it penetrates easily and comes out hot and dry, then the pie is sufficiently cooked; when cold fill with jelly. (2569). WOODCOCK PIE (Pat6 de Becasses). Bone six woodcocks, remove the pouches and gizzards, and fry the intestines by mixing in with them two pounds of game forcemeat (No. 67); pound and pass them through a sieve. Fry the fragments of the birds in butter with a small mirepoix of onions, carrots, thyme, bay leaf and celery root, all cut in small dice. Bone twelve larks, season and fill them with the boned turkey forcemeat mixed with their intestines previously fried in butter; press through a sieve, and season with fine spices (No. 168) and brandy. Line a pie mold with pie paste (No. 144); cover the bottom and sides with thin slices of fat pork, and at the bottom lay three of the woodcocks and six of the larks; then another bed of the forcemeat, the three other woodcocks and the six other larks; finish with more forcemeat and a bard of fat pork; wet the inside edge, cover with a flat of paste, and fasten it down; smooth the top nicely, pinch it all around and on the summit, and bake in a moderate oven; when cold fill the pie with partly cold jelly (No. 103) prepared with game fumet (No. 397). (2570). PIG'S HEAD (Tete ou Hure de Pore). Have a well scalded and cleaned pig's head, singe and bone without destroying the skin, begin- ning from underneath; fill it with layers of fine pork forcemeat (No. 68), placing on each one some lardons of fat pork (No. 1, Fig. 52), pistachios, truffles and quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which chopped-up ham has been mixed, and then rolled into the same sized pieces as the lardons. When the head is filled sew it up and reshape it as before, then wrap it in a cloth and cook in a stock (No. 194a) for four hours; unwrap and return it to the cloth to give it the shape of the head; unwrap once more, pare well, glaze over with meat glaze (No. 402), and dress on a low socle; put in glass eyes and place natural fangs in the mouth; decorate the head with tongue, hard-boiled egg-white and pistachios; surround with chopped jelly and a border of croutons (No. 2442). (2571). LAEDED PULLET WITH JELLY (Poularde PiquSe a la Gele"e), Break the breastbone of a not too fat pullet; fill in the breast and stomach with a large sal- picon made of cooked veal udder, truffles and cooked foies-gras, mixed with a little fine galantine FIG. 520. forcemeat (No. 65). Cut the legs from the pullet, truss, and steep the breast for two minutes in boiling water to stiffen the meats and facilitate the larding with lardons (No. 3, Ffg. 52). Cook COLD SERVICE. 785 the pullet in a little stock (No. 194a), basting over frequently; finally glaze it at the oven door. When cold untruss, detach the legs and cut each of them in two, then cut both breasts in slices and return them to their former place. Lay the pullet on a wooden foundation covered with white paper and fastened on a dish; rearrange the two pieces of each leg, thrusting a small hatelet through, in their original places, only in a contrary direction; on each pinion seta pretty favor frill (No. 10). Surround the pullet with a thick piping of chopped jelly forced through a cornet and the bottom of the dish with a row of round peeled truffles all of the same size, then cook in wine and glaze over with a brush. A mayonnaise with fine herb sauce (No. 612) can always accompany this cold piece. (2572). PTEAMID OF CRUSTACEANS A LA KOCHELAISE AND PYRAMID OP CRAWPISH / (Buisson de Crustacea a la Rochelaise et Buisson d'Ecrevisses), To be able to dress this entree correctly it will be found necessary to fasten a wooden founda- tion on a dish, having it two inches narrower than the basin of the dish itself; cover it with white paper and in the center attach a wooden support also to be covered with paper; this latter must be in the shape of a pyramid, its base measuring four and a half inches, its top two inches and FIG. 521. its height four inches; cover its surface with a layer of butter. This pyramid or buisson is to be composed simply of large slices of lobster tails and of red shrimps, after suppressing their beards. The shrimps are stuck into the butter on the pyramid in regular circles, but having each row lay in a contrary direction; the slices of lobster are also laid in close circles just on top of the rows of shrimps. As soon as all are dressed cover both shrimps and lobster with half-set jelly applied with a brush. In order to insure its safety it is advisable to push a thick string of sticky jelly (No. 2526) through a cornet, exactly underneath the circle of lobster slices, so as to give them a good support. The hollow formed by the upper row of shrimps can be filled in with chopped jelly or parsley leaves, or else with a crimped paper case filled with a round truffle. Surround the bot- tom of the dish with a chain of pretty jelly croutons (No. 2442) cut into oblongs, having one over- lap the other. Keep the buisson in a cold room and serve it with a sauce-boat of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). Pyramid of Crawfish. Crawfish intended for this dish should be chosen as large as possible and cooked in a white wine court-bouillon (No. 39), then left to cool in the stock. When cold break off the small legs. Generally a buisson of shellfish is dressed on a tin step shelf made with pro- jecting ledges, each one furnished with hooks on which the crawfish can be hung; these ledges are movable and are placed at any desired distance from each other, according to the length of the fish, but there must be no openings left between. The pyramid ought first to be fastened on to the center of a large dish and the empty space filled in with parsley leaves or water cress; surround the base with a bush of green, then fasten on the crawfish by the tails, beginning at the lower ledge. Between the edge of the dish and the pyramid dress the remainder of the crawfish, laying them down flat with the heads turned outward and the claws hanging over. This pyramid after being dressed should be laid on a large tray; have this placed in the center of the table. The green and the pronounced red of the crawfish form a pleasant contrast for the eye to rest upon. (2573). SADDLE OF VENISON A LA HARDER (Selle de Ohevreuil a la Harder). Roast to a fine color a medium-sized saddle of venison, after having marinated it for two days, and then larded it with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52); glaze and let stand till cold, then 786 THE EPICUREAN. raise up the sirloin part and cut it in pretty slices, either bias or lengthwise. Add to some Madeira poivrade sauce (No. 620) the same quantity of jelly; reduce, despumate and pass it through a tammy; put it away on ice to cool, stirring it incessantly in the meantime until very nearly cold, then dip each slice into this chaudfroid and restore them to their respective places, reshaping the saddle as originally, and entirely cover over with the chaudfroid; then dress on along dish. Place around on a bed of jelly some artichoke bottoms, having some garnished with small carrot balls, others with turnips, others with cauliflower, others with string beans cut lozerge-shape, and others with English green peas; all of these vegetables to be cooked separately, cooled, well seasoned and mixed with a little jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). At the ends place two fine cauliflowers boiled in salted water and butter, left to cool in their liquid, then drained properly and laid in a vessel to have a seasoning poured over of oil, tarragon vinegar, salt and pepper; baste several times with this seasoning, then drain and cover with jellied mayonnaise. Around the whole lay a pretty border of evenly cut jelly croutons (No. 2442). (2574). COLD SALMIS OP PAETEIDGES (Salmis Froid de Perdreaux). Roast two partridges, cut them up, being careful to have all the pieces nicely pared, and to suppress the skin, leavingon as little bone as possible; range these when prepared on a small baking sheet and keep them in a cool place; have also a round serving dish laid aside on the ice. Prepare a salmis sauce (No. 536) with the parings and bones; strain it into a small saucepan to cool, while stirring occasionally, then incorporate into it slowly two spoonfuls of Madeira wine and several more of good cold jelly (No. 103); beat this on ice to thicken as a chaudfroid sauce. Dip each piece of game singly into this sauce to envelop thoroughly; drain and dress in a pyramid form in the center of a cold dish, reserving the choicest pieces for the top; leave the entree on ice for another quarter of an hour. Garnish the wings and legs with paper frills (No. 10), surround the base of the pyramid with chopped jelly or croutons of jelly (No. 2442), and small glazed truffles laid in cases. (2575). COLD SALMIS OF QUAILS A LA BALZAC (Salmis Proid de Oailles a la Balzac). Roast eight quails; remove the breasts and break up the legs and bones. Fry some shallots in butter, moisten with white wine and half-glaze sauce (No. 413); put in the broken-up carcasses and let simmer for twenty minutes, then strain through a sieve, and add two gelatine leaves, so as to thicken to a good consistency. Decorate some pigeon ballotine molds, the same as ballotines a la Madison (No. 2427), with fanciful cuts of egg-white and tongue; coat with jelly and lay the breasts in the center; finish filling with the cooled-off jelly; unmold the ballotines, range them in a circle on a bread socle covered with green butter (No. 583), and fill the center with chopped jelly, and around with croutons (No. 2442). ' (2576). SALMON DAENE, DEOOEATED (Darne. de Saumon Historic). Cut a darne or thick five-inch slice from the middle of a large salmon after it has been scaled, emptied and cleaned. Lay it straight on the grate of a fish-kettle, salt it over liberally and let it macerate for half an hour. Boil in court-bouillon (No. 38). (It should remain at the boiling point until cooked.) Leaving it in the fish kettle until thoroughly cold, drain off the darne, then remove the skin, wipe the fish, and cover the surfaces with a thin layer of Montpellier butter (No. 582), FIG. 522. softened to a proper degree. Slide the darne at once on to a wooden dish foundation covered over with white paper; smooth the butter well, and set it aside in a cool place to harden. Fill the hollow in the center of the darne with a variegated vegetable salad; decorate the top with strips of green butter alternated with mayonnaise, and decorate the sides with a fine relief wreath made of green and white butter, and ornamented with fanciful bits of gherkin, lobster and COLD SERVICE. 787 cooked truffles. Surround the base of the fish with quartered hard-boiled eggs standing upright (No. 2513), alternated with small clusters of chopped jelly or cooked green peas. Serve with a sauce-boat of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). (2577), SALMON SLICED AND DECOKATED (Tranches de Saumon Histories). Take two two-inch slices from the middle of a large salmon; after cleaning them nicely lay them in salt for one hour; place them on the grate of a fish-kettle and cover profusely with cold water, adding to it a large sprig of parsley and a gill of vinegar; set the kettle on the fire, skim the liquid and at the first boil withdraw it to one side so as to have it quiver only for forty to forty-five minutes; let cool in the stock, then remove the fish with the grate and let drain for half an hour. FIG. 523. Trim the slices, lift off the skin, wipe neatly, lay them on a baking sheet and cover the sides with a layer of Montpellier butter (No. 582); smooth it nicely and set aside on ice to cool. Decorate the sides and tops of these slices of fish with fanciful cuts of truffles, gherkins and hard-boiled egg- whites, being careful to dip each piece into half-set jelly before applying it. Dress the two slices on a thin wooden double support covered with white paper, and in the center of the dish on both sides arrange a cluster of macedoine salad (No. 2650) dressed with mayonnaise (No. 606); on the salad lay a large cooked crawfish and surround the slices with halved hard-boiled eggs, having the yolks hidden under a round piece of truffle. On both ends of the support fasten two tasteful hatelets of red prawns, slanting them outward. Serve with the fish a separate mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). (2578). SLICE OP SALMON WITH JELLY (Trongon de Saumon a la Gele"e). Cut from the middle of a large clean salmon a slice ten inches long; salt it over well and lay it on the grate of a fish-kettle on the belly side; tie it down to the grate with a string to keep it in place, and cover it with cold white wine court-bouillon (No. 39); heat the liquid while skimming, and at the first boil withdraw it to one side so as to keep it quivering for one hour, then allow it to get partly cold in its own stock. Remove the fish with the grate and let FIG. 524. it become thoroughly cold, then leave it to drain for a couple of hours; wipe it off very cautiously, leaving the skin as entire as possible; now slide the fish on an oval wooden foundation covered with white paper and fastened on a long dish; support the slice on both sides so as to maintain it level, and cover the surface with half-set jelly applied with a brush. Surround it with small artichoke bottoms or hard eggs, a la Develle (No. 2502), fill with a vegetable salad (No. 2650), and decorate around with Jelly crusts cut in triangles; serve at the same time two sauce- boats of tartar sauce (No. 631). 788 THE EPICUREAN. (2579). SALMON A LA AVELANE (Saumon a la Avelane). Prepare and cook a salmon the same as explained a la Destaing (No. 2580); when cold cover it with butter, then with several coats of jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). Decorate with fanciful cuts FIG. 525. of jelly dipped in partly cold jelly, forming a medallion as shown in drawing. Coat over with a layer of jelly (No. 103) by means of a funnel having a handle and spring stopper (Fig. 759). Place the salmon on the socle and garnish both sides with halved eggs decorated with truffles; between these place small mounds of chopped jelly. (2580). SALMON A LA DESTAING (Saumon a la Destaing). Have a very fresh twelve to sixteen-pound salmon; dress, that is, scrape off the scales, sup- press the gills, and empty it by making an incision in the belly; wash it very clean, pare off the fins, and lay the salmon on a fish-kettle grate, on its side, the head resting toward the left; cover with cold white wine court-bouillon (No. 39) and stand the kettle on a hot fire; remove it at the first boil, and keep the liquid at boiling heat, without allowing it to boil up, for one hour for a twelve-pound salmon, and one hour and a half for a sixteen-pound one. Let it cool off in its own stock, then drain well for two hours. Remove the skin and sanguineous parts in the center so that the meat itself is entirely exposed, then slide it on a board of its own dimensions. Place a small bread crouton, shaped like the tail (a slightly lengthened triangle), at the extreme end of the tail, it being shaved down to almost nothing; fill the empty part of the fish with butter. Work some butter in a bowl and when very white, smooth and frothy, use it to cover the entire fish; have a strong straight band of paper, one inch in width, pass it over the butter several times until smooth, following the outlines of the salmon, and let get thoroughly cold; now cover it with a sufficiently thick and smooth layer of half-set red jelly, decorate this with truffles, pistachios, hard egg-white, and the red part of lobster meat; imitate the eye, mouth and gills, covering it over with more jelly. Dress it either on a socle or large dish, and surround with small shrimp aspics molded in timbale molds (No. 2. Fig. 137), dec- orated with eggs and truffles, filling them with a salpicon of shrimp mingled with jellied mayon- naise (No. 613), and fillets of sole, pared round. Cover with jellied mayonnaise, to which add chopped tarragon and chervil, then mask this over with jelly. Serve some mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) separately. (2581). SALMON A LA FAKKAGUT (Saumon a la Farragut). Prepare and cook the fish as a la Destaing (No. 2580); cover with creamy white butter and let it get thoroughly cold; on the central part lay a thin band of crawfish butter (No. 573), an eighth of an inch thick by ten inches wide, so as to entirely cover this part of the fish. Decorate the top with fanciful bits of truffles, crawfish tails, anchovies and tarragon leaves; when the fish is very cold, cover it over with light red half -set jelly, and place it on its socle or dish; garnish around with sixteen small crawfish tartlets prepared as follows: Make some tartlets with fine foundation paste (No. 135), and when cold fill them either with crawfish tails or oysters, clams, etc., that have been laid in a marinade, and then cover with half-set jelly. Between these tartlets place sixteen white onions about one and three-eighths inches in diameter, from which cut off about an eighth of the stalk end, and as much from the root end; blanch for five minutes in plenty of water, then refresh and cook slightly firm in white wine court-bouillon (No. 39); drain, empty, and fill them up with Cambridge butter (No. 570), or else marinate them for two hours in oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Place these onions on round pieces of beetroot one inch in diameter, and empty them with a half-inch tube. Cut eight more onions in three even parts across and use only the two end pieces; blanch them in salted water and vinegar, drain and fill with jellied ravigote mayonnaise, made by mixing ravigote sauce (No. 623) with jellied mayonaise (No. 613); place them over the others, and arrange small sprigs of green water cress on top. A print aniere mayonnaise sauce (No. 612) is to be served separately. COLD SERVICE. 789 (2582). SALMON A LA MODERN, ON SOCLE (Saumon k la Moderne sur Socle). The fish, as represented in Fig. 526, is laid on its belly on a long wooden foundation covered over with white paper; the foundation with the fish is placed on a socle, and this is standing on a large tray. Every part is movable and independent, so that the piece can be easily transported. The tray is made of wood of oval form, with rounded prolongations on each end; it stands on several feet; the body of the tray is simply covered with white paper, and it has an open-work, silvered border. The socle is oval and hollow, it being made of two pieces of wood, one wider than the other, but fastened together in the center by a solid wooden support; the outlines of the socle are made of small pieces of board, or simply of strong cardboard covered with a thin layer of modeling fat (No. 56). The ornaments on the frieze and base of the socle are white and modeled in fat. The waterfall forming the frieze is made in pieces, stamped in a plaster cast, and put to- gether, and are upheld by a tin band projecting out all around the top of the socle. The balls can also be made in plaster casts in two separate pieces, then put together. The two small socles placed on the rounded ends of the tray can be made of fat on a mandrel, or else molded in stearine; FIG. 526. they are movable but are held in place by a wooden peg fixed in the tray, and passing up through the base of the socle; each one of these is filled with macedoine salad (No. 2650). dressed in a pyramid and surmounted by slices of lobster. To cook the salmon whole it should be drawn through the gills, after scaling, and the inside filled with an ordinary bread stuffing (No. 61), then trussed; fasten it erect on the grate of a fish-kettle with string; cover with white wine court-bouillon (No. 39); heat up the liquid, skimming it at the first boil, and leave it on one side of the fire to quiver for an hour to an hour and a half: remove and cool partly on the grate out of the water. Untie it when cold, drain and lay it on the oval foundation, supporting it in two places on each side with wedges and supports, so as to keep it in position. These supports are hidden under sprigs of parsley leaves, then brushed over with half- set jelly. The small trout which constitute the garnishing on the front of the tray are cooked au bleu, as directed in No. 1297, well drained and laid in two symmetrical rows on a bed of chopped sticky jelly (No. 2526); they are then covered over with jelly the same as the salmon. These two rows of trout are separated by a cluster of round, peeled and cooked truffles after being covered with jelly (No. 103) or meat glaze (No. 402); this cluster of truffles may be replaced by one of red shrimps or simply by fresh parsley leaves. This dish as represented in the design is intended for a sideboard supper or a ball; it must be accompanied by four sauce-boats of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). (2583). SALMON A LA REGENCE, ON SOCLE (Saumon a la Re~gence sur Socle). Arrange and cook the salmon the same as for Destaing (No. 2580); cover with a very smooth layer of white butter, then with one or two coats of jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). When cold dec- orate to imitate the head of the fish and ornament the surface with small truffle crescents graduated in size, or else with a large oval medallion about half the length of the salmon. Let the fish be very cold, then cover with a coating of half-set jelly; lay it on a socle and garnish around with a border of halved eggs filled with macedoine (No. 2508); between this border and the fish place lettuce hearts cut in foar. Serve a well-seasoned printaniere mayonnaise (No. 619) with the salmon. 790 THE EPICUREAN. (2584). SALMON A LA SEYMOUK (Saumon a la Seymour). Have a salmon prepared and cooked the same as Destaing (No. 2580) ; carefully suppress the skin and the brown parts of the meat; fill the inside with butter and cover with several layers of pale pink jelly; decorate with fanciful cuts of egg-white and pistachios and garnish around with marinated lobster escalops covered with white jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), on which strew truffles, gherkins and egg-white, each of these to be chopped up separately; then mask with jelly; decorate with basket-shaped eggs (No. 2508); also have lettuce hearts cut in four and at each end plaoe green water cress. Accompany this fish by a sauce-boat of ravigote mayonnaise sauce (No. 612). (2585). SALMON A LA COUKBET (Saumon a la Courbet). Have the salmon already prepared and cooked the same as the Destaing (No. 2580); cover it with softened and smooth crawfish butter (No. 573) and decorate through a cornet; dredge the whole surface lightly with lobster coral chopped exceedingly fine and sifted through a sieve. Lay the fish on a socle and garnish around with lobster escalops covered with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613) and strew the surface with finely chopped truffles; between the escalops place clusters of fine large shrimp tails covered with jelly, and between each moscovite egg garnishing (No. 2511). Insert in the fish three hatelets composed of crawfish and decorated quenelles. Serve a mayonnaise cardinal sauce (No. 608) at the same time. (2586). SALMON, EUSSIAN STYLE (Saumon a la Eusse). Prepare and cook the salmon the same as for Destaing (No. 2580); cover with white butter, then with mayonnaise (No. 606), into which stir as much slightly dissolved jelly (No. 103); cover it well through a funnel the same as explained for a la Avelane (No. 2579) and scatter over truffles, egg- white, lobster coral and parsley, all finely and separately chopped. Imitate the eyes and gills and garnish around with Polish eggs (No. 2512), and between each egg place large oysters, blanched, marinated and covered with a white chaudf roid (No. 596). Decorate the intersections with lettuce and water cress and serve with a sauce-boat of tartar sauce (No. 631). (2587). SALMON, VENETIAN STYLE (Saumon a la Venitienne). Cook and prepare the salmon the same as the Destaing (No. 2580); cover it with ravigote butter (No. 583), and lay over this on its entire surface one or several beds of jellied mayonnaise (No. 613) of a light green shade; decorate with gherkins, capers, branches of chervil and tarragon leaves, imitate the eyes and gills and cover the whole with a thin layer of jelly. Dress the fish on a dish or socle and garnish around with paupiettes of smelts laid over some artichoke bottoms; be- tween these put quartered eggs (No. 2513); intersect clusters of water cress and lettuce hearts cut in four and chopped jelly. Decorate with three hatelets, two of shrimps and one of crawfish. A green mayonnaise sauce (No. 612) accompanies this salmon. (2588). SALMON, WITH MONTPELLIEE OK CAMBEIDGE BUTTEE (Saumon au Beurre de Mont- pellier ou au Beurre de Cambridge). The salmon must first be prepared and cooked the same as for the Destaing (No. 2580); cover it either with Montpellier butter (No. 582), or Cambridge butter (No. 570); decorate through a cornet and in the center form a medallion ; lay here and there olives, capers and sliced pickled gherkins, and garnish around with trussed crawfish, lettuce hearts, water cress and hard eggs cut as barrels (No. 2507), also oysters covered with ravigote jelly. Serve a remoulade sauce (No. 624) separately. (2589). SLICED SHEEPSHEAD WITH JELLY (Tranches de Sheepshead a la Gelfo), Cut off two fine slices ot raw sheepshead, salt over and leave to macerate for one hour. Fry in butter or oil a root and a minced onion; add root mirepoix with aromatics, parsley and a clove of garlic; moisten with white wine court-bouillon (No. 39), having plenty of it so as to cover the fish well, and boil the liquid for an hour, then strain. Put the slices of sheepshead into a deep earthen dish, suitable to be placed in the oven, cover over with the marinade stock and then with a strong paper; allow the liquid to boil up once before pushing the dish into a slack oven to cook the fish slowly for twenty minutes. After taking it out drain off the slices, remove the skin and lay them in a deep serving dish; strain the stock, lift off all the fat from the surface and mix in with it the COLD SERVICE. 791 same amount of very thick aspic jelly (No. 103) and a dash of good vinegar; pour this into the dish containing the fish and decorate the top with thin slices of lemon. After the jelly has become hard serve the fish accompanied by a sauce-boat of grated horseradish, mixed with a little good cream. (2590). SHELLS OF CAPON WITH JELLY (Coquilles de Ohapon a la Gelfe). Cut up into small dice the white meats of a capon; put them in a bowl with a third of their quantity of cooked mushrooms cut the same size; season with salt, oil and vinegar, and let mace- rate for half an hour, then drain off the seasoning and put the salpicon into a mayonnaise (No. 606), stirring into it two spoonfuls of gherkins likewise cut in dice pieces. With this preparation fill some shells, have the tops bomb-shaped and cover over with a thin layer of mayonnaise, then smooth the surface with a knife, decorate the top with fanciful cuts of truffles, gherkins and some beets; dress the shells on a folded napkin with sprigs of parsley in the center. (2591). SHELLS OF PERCH OR RED SNAPPER (Coquilles de Perche on de Red Snapper). Cold shells are prepared with the same materials as the hot shells, using the cold meats of perch, red snapper, salmon, bass, sole, halibut, turbot. lobster or crawfish, the manner of prepara- tion differing only. Cut the cold fish into small three-eighths of an inch dice and put them into a bowl with a third as much cooked mushrooms, as many truffles and a few spoonfuls of gherkins cut the same as the fish; season with salt, oil and vinegar and let macerate for a quarter of an hour. Drain the seasoning from the salpicon and replace it by a jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), and with this preparation fill up the shells, smoothing the surface to a dome and covering them over with a layer of the same mayonnaise; decorate the tops with details of smoked salmon, truffles, egg-white and gherkins, cut out with a column tube. Surround the base of each one of the domes with a string of chopped jelly pushed through a cornet. (2592). SOCLES AND ORNAMENTS (Socles et Ornements). These socles, as represented by Fig. 527-528, are made on a stand covered with modeling fat (No. FIG. 537. 56) and cutout with a knife, then ornamented either through a cornet or else with a border of fanciful pieces stamped in a mold or molded. These two socles, although differently ornamented, are both constructed on the same principle and on the same plan. 792 THE EPICUREAN. Small socles are intended for decorating a sideboard of small dimensions; they can also be placed on a dinner table, either to figure as a center-piece should there be no other or at the ends of the table if there be two, but in that case it will be necessary to have the upper garnishings and decorations dressed on a dish, instead of being directly on the socle, so they can be readily FIG. 528. removed and handed to the guests. In either case the socles should be fastened on a large dish or tray. Each socle stands on a solid, wooden, hollow drum that answers for a base; on top of the socle is another low-shaped drum, also made of wood and covered with white paper, having in its FIG. 529. center a thin wooden support forming a pyramid and arranged in such a way that it can afford a perfect support to the garnishings; this support has on its top a small platform on which can be laid any desired object or subject. COLD SERVICE. 793 The garnishings on the first of these socles (Fig. 527) is composed of small cold chicken or par- tridge galantines made oval, then cut up, reconstructed and covered over with a blond chaudf roid (No. 596). They stand almost upright, leaning against the central support, but to be more assured of their safety it were advisable to inclose each galantine on the bottom with a solid wooden or cardboard shoe, the shape of a horseshoe. The galantines are decorated after they are dressed, and are then covered with half-set jelly. Exactly on top of these galantines lay a row of small paper cases filled with truffles, and fasten them against the central support. On the platform above is set a small Fio. 530. modeled or cast subject. The base of the small drum on which the galantines rest is surrounded by a row of round, even-sized truffles, peeled and glazed over with a brush. The garnishings for the second socle consist of seven or eight large crimped paper cases shaped into half-hearts, pointed on one end and rounded on the other. These cases are filled with a frothy foies-gras preparation made the same as for pheasant cutlets, smoothed dome-shaped and covered with brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594). The figure on top represents a satyr seated on a rock, under which is laid a row of small cases containing truffles. The base of the small drum on which the garnishings repose may be deco- rated with small cases of truffles or with fine jelly croutons (No. 2442). Let it be observed that the garnishings for these socles can be modified or replaced by others. (2593), SOLES A LA MAZAGKAN-PILLET.S (Filets de Soles a la Mazagran). This entree is to be dressed on a wooden foundation fastened to a dish having a pyramidica-l FIG. 531. wooden support in its center, both to be covered with white paper. First prepare a small variegated macedoine salad (No. 2650); let it macerate for two hours in its seasoning, then drain it off, and dress the salad with thick mayonnaise (No. 606), and keep it on ice. Suppress the shells from the 704 THE EPICUREAN. claws and tails of two lobsters simply cooked in a court-bouillon (No. 38), and left till cold; split the claws in two tfirough their thickness, and brush over with half -set jelly, so as to be able to fasten them together again; also divide the tail meats into several slices from top to bottom, and wet each slice with half-set jelly, so as to be able to reshape them as before; keep these tails and claws on ice. Cook the fillets of three soles in a baking tin with white wine court-bouillon (No. 39), and as soon as done drain and range them on another baking tin and cover over with but- tered paper; let cool off under a weight, then pare them all of the same length, not too freely, suppressing only the thin ends. Take the fillets up one by one, dip them into a white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596), reduced with a part of the stock they are cooked in, and range then once more on the same tin, keeping them a slight distance apart; cool them off on ice, and then cut away the surplus sauce. "With the prepared salad, mingled with the fragments of lobster tail, cover the pyramidical support all around so as to increase its thickness, but keeping it in the same shape; smooth and cover over with a layer of jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). Against this pyramid dress the fillets of soles standing upright, one overlapping the other, and cover them with half-set jelly put on with a brush. On top of the pyramid dress the two prepared claw? and tails, surround them with a thick string of chopped jelly to keep them in position and cover them as well with the half-set jelly. Place all around the bottom of the dish even-sized fine jelly croutons (No. 2442), and keep the dish for ten minutes on ice, then serve with a separate mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). (2594). STURGEON OR STERLET, LIVONIENNE-SMALL (Petit Esturgeon ou Sterlet Livon- ienne). Clean the fish and put it in a fish-kettle to moisten with white wine court-bouillon (No. 39); boil and leave to cool off in its stock, then dress it on a dish, having carefully preserved the fish perfectly whole; let get thoroughly cold in the ice-box. Cover over with half-set jelly or else with fish-glaze (No. 399) and crawfish butter (No. 573); decorate it around with trussed crawfish, herring paupiettes (No. 789), cucumbers stuffed with vegetables, gherkins, olives, chopped jelly and croutons. Serve a mayonnaise ravigote sauce (No. 612) at the same time. (2595). SWEETBREADS A LA MIRABEAU (Ris de Veau a la Mirabeau). Braise (No. 12) the sweetbreads first, and as soon as done put them in the press (Fig. 71) or under a light weight; cut them in two on their thickness; with a two inch in diameter pastry cutter cut out some round pieces, cover with blond chaudfroid (No. 596), and decorate each with a handsome rosette of very black truffles; cover over with half-set jelly, and range them on top of a macedoine salad (No. 2650), dressed with mayonnaise piled into a high dome; have a border of jelly croutons around, and serve tartar sauce (No. 631) separately. (2596). TERRINE OF DUCKS' LIVER A L'AQUITAINE (Terrine de Poles de Canards k 1'Aquitaine). Put two and a half pounds of fat ducks' liver in a terrine, after removing the gall, seasoned with foies-gras spices (No. 168) and larded with, large fillets of raw truffles. Pound the truffle parings with five ounces of fresh chopped fat pork and six ounces of very white lean veal or pork meat, free from sinews, also chopped up finely, and four ounces of raw lean ham, adding the liver parings, salt and spices. Infuse a piece of cinnamon stick in a little Madeira wine, pass it through a sieve and mix it with the forcemeat, also six spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385) ; season the whole to perfection. Cover the bottom and sides of a medium No. 3 terrine with thin bards of fat pork, lay on a bed of the prepared forcemeat and then range in the livers, pressing them closely together- mask over with a thick layer of the forcemeat and cover with a thin bard of fat pork; set on the cover and place the terrine on a small raised-edge baking pan containing a little hot water; push it into the oven to bake for an hour; remove and lay it away to cool with a light weight on top; when thoroughly cold fill it to the edge with lard and butter, melted together. This terrine is to be served either whole, by suppressing the fat, or by unmolding it on a dish without cutting it up and merely removing the fat pork and grease, or else in the terrine itself. Decorate with chopped jelly and croutons (No. 2442). (2597). TERRINE OF KERNEL OF HAM (Terrine de Noix de Jambon). Kaise the kernel from a fresh ham; suppress the rind and lard with large lardons (No. 1, Fig. 52), seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg and parsley. Put it in a vessel with carrots, minced onions, a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123), salt, pepper and Madeira wine; let macerate for forty- COLD SERVICE. 795 eight hours in a cool place, turning it over frequently. Cover the bottom and sides of a terrine that can stand the oven with chopped forcemeat (No. 68); lay the kernel in the center, cover with more forcemeat and the whole with bards of fat pork; put on the lid and place the terrine in a deep baking tin containing water; push into a slack oven for three hours; remove, place a round of wood fitting the inside of the terrine over and a light weight on top; when cold, remove this round of wood and cover the surface with chopped jelly; then serve. (2598). TEEEINE OF HARE (Terrine de Lievre). Choose a fresh-skinned and clean hare, remove the fillets from the back, the minion fillets and the kidneys, reserving these apart. Take the meat from the shoulders and legs and chop it well; mix with it an equal quantity of boned turkey forcemeat (No. 65), and an equal quantity of baking forcemeat (No. 64); mix well. Pare the large fillets from the hare's back; cut them up into big squares and put into a vessel with the minion fillets and kidneys cut likewise, adding as much blanched fat pork cut the same, a few raw truffles and a piece of foies-gras; season these meats and pour over a few spoonfuls of brandy and Madeira wine, then let macerate for a few hours. Select a proper-sized cooking terrine, cover the bottom and around with thin slices of fat pork and fill it up in layers, intermingling each layer of forcemeat with a bed of the squares prepared before- hand, and finishing with fom^emeat on top; cover the whole with fat pork. Set the terrine on a baking pan with a little hot water and let bake for one hour and a half to two hours in a slow oven; after removing, put it away in a cool place, with a weight laid on top, for three-quarters of an hour at least, and serve it only after twenty-four hours has elapsed; remove the fat from the top, and garnish with chopped jelly and croutons (No. 2442). (2599). TEEEINE OP LAEKS (Terrine de Mauviettes). Bone two or three dozen larks; season, cook a part of the intestines with fat pork and then pass them through a sieve. Prepare a pound and a half of chopped galantine forcemeat (No. 66), place it in a vessel and mix in with it a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), chopped truffles and the intestine pulp. Spread the larks on the table and lay in each one a forcemeat ball. Line a terrine used for cooking and proceed to fill it exactly as described for terrine of ducks' liver a 1'Aquitaine (No. 2596). Bake slowly for an hour and a quarter; let it cool, pressing it slightly half an hour after it leaves the oven; when cold garnish with jelly. (2600). TEEEINE DE NEEAO (Terrine de Nerac). Cut off the feet and wings from a medium-sized partridge; bone and season with allspice (No. 168); takeout the liver and carefully remove the gall from it, then pound and mix it to pound again with half a pound of chopped pork forcemeat (No. 68). Cut up some cooked ham, some tongue, truffles, fat pork, and the minion fillets taken from the partridge, in quarter-inch square pieces; mix all in with the forcemeat, and with it fill the boned partridge, proceeding the same as for a boned chicken (No. 2485a). Line a terrine of the same capacity as the boned partridge (one that can be placed in the oven) with slices of fat pork; on top of this set a layer of the pork forcemeat, and then put in the partridge with the breast down ward; finish filling up with truffles and more forcemeat, and lay slices of fat pork on top. Set the cover on and fasten it all around with strips of paper dipped in a flour and water paste; bake it one and a half to two hours, more or less, according to the size and thickness of the terrine. After removing and unfastening it put inside a smaller cover that can easily enter the top, to take the place of its own, and press lightly under a weight; drain off all the grease aris- ing over the inside cover which is used for pressing it, and when the contents are perfectly cold remove the small cover and pour back the grease previously removed, and after this has cooled off cover the whole with melted lard. Keturn the original cover to the terrine after washing it well; fasten it on again with pasted tin foil and keep it in a cool place. When wanted for use take off all the grease, unmold, dress and garnish around with chopped jelly, or it may be served in its own terrine. (2601). TEEEINE OF PLOVEES AND LAEKS (Terrine de Pluviers et Mauviettes). Take off the fillets from eight plovers; remove their skin, lay them in a vessel and season with salt and spices, and moisten with a little brandy and Madeira. Detach and cut up the leg meats; put four ounces of fat pork in a sautoir, and when melted add the intestines without the gizzard and pouch; fry all together over a brisk fire with half a pound of chicken livers, the cut-up leg 796 THE EPICUREAN. meats, and some chopped shallots and mushrooms; when this is cold pound it with an equal quantity of chopped-up fresh fat pork, and press the preparation through a sieve. Cover the bottom and sides of a terrine with thin bards of fat pork; over this a layer of forcemeat; fill the center with the skinned plover fillets; on this lay a layer of the prepared forcemeat; on this some larks boned and stuffed with game forcemeat made with a pound of game, the same of fat pork, a few truffles and pistachios, and small squares of ham; now place another layer of the forcemeat, more fillets, and so on until the terrine is quite full; all these ingredients should be well seasoned; range on top a bard of the fat pork and the cover; put it in a low saucepan containing a little water; cook in a moderate oven for an hour and a half, and when the meats are done press down lightly, and set it aside to cool. Fill the terrine with melted butter and lard, half of each, and use only when cold. (2602). TERRINE OP PORK LIVER (Terrine de Poles de Pore;. Procure two pounds of the whitest pork liver, three pounds of fresh fat perk, four ouncea of onion and one ounce of shallot, both chopped very finely and separately, four ounces together of salt, pepper, fine spices (No. 168), and a little powdered thyme, six ounces of flour, one ounce ol truffles, one ounce of pistachios, and two ounces of tongue, these three latter to be chopped sepa- rately. Work the whole well together to obtain a compact paste, then divide it into three parts. Line the inside of a terrine with thin slices of fat pork, place in it one of the parts, and on it lay a bed of quarter of an inch squares of fat pork, then another one of the parts of forcemeat, another layer of fat pork squares, and on these the third or remaining part. The terrine should be filled to one inch below the edge, then covered with bards of fat pork; place a bay leaf on top, and set on the cover. Push the terrine into a moderate oven, standing on a baking sheet, and when cooked remove and lay a round of wood on it the size of the inside of the terrine; place under the press so as to press it down lightly, and leave it thus to cool for twelve hours. (2603). TERRINE OP SNIPE (Terrine de Bone two snipe, divide each one in two parts and lay them in a dish with five or six peeled and cut-up truffles, and as much cooked ham fat, or fat pork; season the meats and truffles highly and pour over a little Madeira wine. Take the meat from the leg of a hare, cut it in pieces and fry in a saucepan with double its quantity of chicken or game livers until vail done, then add the birds' intestines and leave to cool; chop this up with a third as much rav/ and chopped fresh pork, and then season the whole; put it in a mortar to pound with the same amount of fresh fat pork pre- viously chopped and pounded with the truffle parings; add to thi.* forcemeat a pinch of prepared spices (No. 168). Five minutes later set it in a vessel and incorporate with it the Madeira wine used for marinating the snipe. Cover the bottom and sides of a terriue with slices of unsalted fat pork and these with a layer of the prepared forcemeat; range the pieces of snipe, truffles and ham in the center, alternated with the remainder of the forcemeat; the terrine should now be quite full. Smooth the top with a knife and cover with slices of fat pork; put on the lid and set it in a baking pan with a glassful of hot water; push it into a moderate oven to cook for an hour and a half. When the water in the pan evaporates pour in some more, and when done take it out and leave to cool partly, then set a light weight on top, and when thoroughly cold take the contents from the terrine, divide in two across, return one-half to the terrine, cut up the remaining half into oblong pieces and dress them again in a circle in the same terrine. Garnish the center with chopped jelly. (2604). TERRINE OP WILD RABBITS (Terrine de Lapins Sauvages). Cut off the limbs of two or three wild rabbits previously skinned, cleaned, and the meats nicely wiped; bone the four limbs and the back, cut the back fillets in pieces, also the meat from the legs, and lard them with shreds of raw ham and bits of truffles; lay them in a vessel to season with pul- verized wild thyme, and pour over a few spoonfuls of brandy or Madeira wine; let macerate for two or three hours, adding a few spoonfuls of cooked fine herbs (No. 385). With the minion fillets and the nicest parings prepare a forcemeat, mix with it an equal quantity of baking forcemeat (No. 81), and to this dressing add the marinade from the meats. Cover the bottom and sides of a cooking terrine with a layer of the prepared forcemeat, then begin to fill it with the pieces of rabbit intermingled with large lardons of foies-gras and truffles, both raw, but seasoned, and alternate the forcemeat with layers of the meats; cover the top with forcemeat and thin slices of fat pork over all. Set the terrine into a deep baking pan containing hot water, and bake for one hour and a quarter to one hour and a half in a moderate oven; after it has been re- moved one quarter of an hour set a weight on top and allow to cool off. COLD SERVICE. 797 (2605). TIMBALE OP PHEASANTS WITH TRUFFLES (Timbale de Faisans aux Truffes). Remove the meat from the breast of two raw pheasants. Chop up the fleshy part of the legs with one fillet and the carcass parings, and with it mix an equal quantity of fat pork, a few raw truffles and fragments of foies-gras; pound well and pass through a sieve. Cut into large squares the remaining breast meats and lay them in a vessel with as much cut-up raw foies-gras; season highly and pour over a few spoonfuls of Madeira wine; keep this in a cool place for two hours. Butter a large dome-shaped mold, broader than it is high; line it with cold pie paste (No. 144) and cover with a layer of the forcemeat, filling the empty space with the contents of the vessel; cover the top FIG. 538. with a thick, well-rounded layer of the same, and then lay several slices of fat pork on all; close up the aperture of the mold with a flat of the same paste, fastening it to the edges, and in the center bore a small opening. Now lay the timbale on a small-sized baking sheet and let it cook for about an hour and a half in a slack oven; after it has been removed for a quarter of an hour pour into the hole two or three gills of brown chaudfroid (No. 594), reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 397) and Madeira wine, and let it cool for twenty-four hours before unraolding. When ready to serve invert it on the table, lift off the mold and cut from the bottom a slice about an inch thick, then begin cutting the dome into even slices, not too thick, from the top to the bottom; restore these to their original shape on the piece cut from the bottom. Dress the timbale on a wooden founda- tion attached to a dish and covered with white paper; have small holes perforated at equal distances around the edges of this foundation and into these stick a dozen small hatelets, each one being garnished with two peeled truffles, one larger than the other. On the summit of the dome insert another hatelet garnished with large truffles; surround the foundation either with handsome jelly croutons (No. 2442), or else with slices of pie cooked in a cradle mold. (2606). BEEF TONGUE A LA ROOHEFORT (Langue de Boeuf a la Rochefort). Prepare and cook a tongue, as explained in red beef tongue, No. 2608; after it is cold cut away the entire center of the tongue, as in the accompanying design (Fig. 533); cut this part into slices, reconstruct and glaze it nicely with a brush dipped in partly set jelly. Set it on a plain or FIG. 533. carved rice foundation; ornament the ends of the tongue with fanciful cuts of truffles, egg-whites, and pistachio nuts; on the foundation place a shell made of grease, filled with slices of foies-gras, and 798 THE EPICUREAN. chopped jelly sprinkled over; stick two garnished hatelets in the thick end, and at the tip of the tongue a crouton of jelly laid in tiers (Fig. 465), one on top of the other. Garnish the sides with glazed carrot balls, and the ends with chopped jelly; surround the socle with chopped jelly and croutons of jelly cut in squares. (2607). KED BEEF TONGUES AEOADE (Langues de Boeuf Ecarlate en Arcade). Prepare and cook the tongues in water, lay them in a mold having the shape of a tongue two and a quarter inches thick, then place them under a weight to get cool ; pare, and cover them with a brown chaudfroid (No. 594) and decorate with designs of egg-white, truffles and pistachio nuts. FIG. 534. Mask the decoration with a partly solidified jelly, and arrange these tongues on a silver-plated support, as represented in the accompanying Fig. 534; garnish around with chopped jelly and a border of jelly croutons. (2608). EED BEEP TONGUES, SMOKED (Langues de Boeuf Ecarlate Fumees). Cutoff the windpipes and prick the tongues with the point of a trussing needle; rub over with pulverized saltpetre, mingled with as much brown sugar, and place them in an earthen or wooden vessel between layers of white salt, with thyme, bay leaf, basil, juniper berries and cloves. Put a board over with a weight on top; turn them after three days and cover so that the air cannot enter and repeat the operation every three days during the period of twelve. To cook, place them in a stock pot after washing in several waters; cover with a sufficient quantity of water to allow them to swim, adding a bunch of parsley garnished with two carrots and two onions; boil slowly for an hour to an hour and a half until thoroughly cooked, which can be ascertained by inserting the point of a trussing needle deep into them; remove from the stock and wrap in a wet cloth; leave to cool, then dress them in a circle leaning against a crouton with the tips downward; garnish with jelly and serve. (2609). EED BEEF TONGUES WITH JELLY (Langues de Bceuf Ecarlate a la Gele*e), Cut away the fat and cartilaginous part from six beef tongues, wash and wipe them well, then prick them with a larding needle; rub each tongue over, using half an ounce of saltpetre for each one. Lay them in a bowl, covering them with a layer of salt; set a board over with a weight on top, and leave them there for twelve hours, then range them in an earthen vessel or wooden tub. Cover them with a brine prepared as follows: Have eight quarts of water and one pound or more of salt; test the brine, to see whether it be strong enough, by putting in an egg or potato, and if it floats on the surface then the brine is sufficiently strong. Boil it, adding half a pound of brown sugar, and let get cool before pouring it over the tongues; leave them in this pickle for COLD SERVICE. 799 twelve to fifteen days, setting them in a very cool place, and laying a board over with a weight on top so as to keep them continually under the brine, turning them over in it every three days* when they are to be used, place them in plenty of cold water, and set on the fire to boil for three or four hours according to their size; when done plunge them into fresh water, remove their skins, press them down under a weight, trim them nicely, then cut out the entire center of the tongue, leaving a piece underneath and at both ends; cut this square piece into thin slices, return them to their original position, then glaze the tongue with meat glaze (No. 402); dress it on a dish over a layer of bread spread with green butter (No. 583), and decorate it through a cornet with the same butter. Garnish around with chopped jelly, having a border of nicely shaped jelly croutons (No. 2442). (2610). CALVES' TONGUES A LA MAOEDOINE (Langues de Veau a la Mac^doine). Cook six calves' tongues, salted as the beef tongue No. 2609, in salted water for eight days, and unsalted in fresh water for six hours; when done remove and lay them to cool under a weight. After suppressing the skin, pare them rounded at the thick end, and cut the two surfaces off straight, then split each one lengthwise in two or three, brush over with meat glaze (No. 402) and cover with a little half-set jelly to give them brilliancy. Besides this prepare a vegetable macedoine with Brussels sprouts, small clusters of cauliflower, balls of potatoes and carrots, string beans sliced or cut in lozenges, asparagus tops and green peas; all of these vegetables should be blanched separately; season the salad and form it symmetrically into a pyramid on the middle of a dish. Dress the halved tongues upright in a circle around with their pointed ends upward, and surround the whole with jelly, serving a tartar sauce No. (631), or cold ravigote (No. 623) apart. (2611). BEOOK TROUT A LA OAREME (Truites de Ruisseau a la Careme). Scale, wash and draw the fish without opening their bellies; wrap them up in sheets of but- tered paper and cook them in a white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); when done, drain, unwrap and remove the skin carefully. Lay them in a deep dish, one beside the other, placing them very straight; strain the stock over and allow to cool off thoroughly in this, then take them from the liquor, wipe dry, dress and cover one-half with white jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), and the other half with green ravigote (No. 623) mixed with jellied mayonnaise. Decorate the tops with egg- white, truffles, anchovy fillets, gherkins and pistachios; surround with chopped jelly and croutons, and serve a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) at the same time. (2612). TROUT WITH JELLY, TARTAR SAUCE (Truites a la Gele"e, Sauce Tartars). Let the fish be very fresh for it loses its best qualities when kept from the water or on ice for any length of time. Clean the fish through the gills without opening or scaling it. Lay it on the belly side on the fish grate, cover with cold and strained white wine court-bouillon (No. 39), heat the liquid and skim; at the first boil withdraw it to one side, so that it quivers FIG. 535. for fifteen minutes. Remove the fish with the grate, and let drain for a couple of hours, then slide it on a wooden foundation concealed by white paper and fastened on a large dish; support the fish upright, so it will not fall, and cover over with slightly reddened cold jelly; garnish the two ends with clusters of shrimps and surround the foundation with jelly croutons (No. 2442) ; fill up the spaces between the fish with bunches of fresh parsley leaves or chopped jelly; serve tartar sauce (No. 631) with the fish. 800 THE EPICUREAN. (2613). TUBBOT A LA KEMOULADE (Turbot a la K^moulade), Place some slices of turbot cooked in a court-bouillon (No. 38), in a deep dish; pour over oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Decorate a border mold (Fig. 138), with fanciful cuts of egg-white, truffles, pistachios and red lobster meat; cover these with a thick layer of jelly (No. 103), and fill it up with shrimps dressed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); unmold when the border becomes very firm, and fill the center with a pad of rice, or of veal and mutton fat, half of each; lay the pieces of turbot on top, having suppressed all the bones and skin therefrom; cover the fish with remoulade sauce (No. 624), mixed with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), and serve separately a sauce-boat of remoulade sauce. (2614). TURKEY A LA STEVENS-STUITED (Dinde Parcie a la Stevens). Fry one onion in two ounces of butter with four ounces of fresh mushrooms chopped up; season with salt, nutmeg, fine pepper, parsley, thyme and bay leaf; moisten with half a pint of white wine, and set it on a slow fire to let fall to a glaze, then dilute with very thick and well- reduced allemande sauce (No. 407), strained through a tammy and cooled off. Put this into the mortar gradually with the same amount of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), and with a spoon mix in some truffles and red beef tongue, cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, and pistachios. Bone the breast of a young turkey, fill the empty space with the above dressing, truss it and wrap it up in several sheets of buttered paper, then put it to cook in an oval-shaped saucepan lined with bards of fat pork, and moisten to half its height with a mirepoix and white wine stock (No. 419); it requires fifteen minutes cooking for each pound of turkey when stuffed. Half an hour before serving untie the turkey and let it assume a fine color, then remove and lay it on a dish to cool off. With the stock prepare a jelly and use for making some small aspics of foies-gras (No. 2412), molded in timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), and garnish around with them, placing them on chopped jelly and surround with jelly croutons, and stick on the top three or five hatelets; trim the drumsticks with favor frills (No. 10), then serve. (2615). TUKKEY IN DAUBE A LA VEBNEUIL (Dinde en Daube a la Vernenil), After picking, singeing and drawing a large turkey, lard it with lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52), seasoned with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chives and pulverized thyme and bay leaf. Line a braziere (Fig. 134), with slices of fat pork, raw lean ham, carrots, onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, a clove of garlic, a gill of brandy and two split calf's feet or knuckle of veal; lay in the turkey. FIG. 536. Boil, skim, then set the braziere in the oven for three or four hours until perfectly cooked. Blanch and cook separately some turnip balls three-eighths of an inch in diameter, and some short sticks of carrots one inch long by three-eighths of an inch in diameter. When the turkey is cooked put it into an earthen or a tin vessel, strain the stock over and when three-quarters cooled remove the COLD SERVICE. 801 bones and skin from the meat. Mold the daube in a mold about one inch shorter and narrower than the mold to be decorated, placing in layers of turkey, calf's feet, truffles and pistachios. Decorate the larger mold, the shape of the one in Fig. 536, with the carrot sticks cut lengthwise in two and the rounded side applied to the sides of the mold, and the turnip balls also cut in two and the convex side applied; the half lozenges on top to be of turnips and the smaller lozenges above of truffles, below which place a row of small green peas. Coat the decoration and fill the bottom with jelly, and when hardened unmold the smallest mold and place it in the decorated one. Fill up with cold liquid jelly, let get thoroughly cold on ice, and when sufficiently firm unmold on a cold oval dish; garnish around with chopped jelly and triangular jelly croutons dressed upright. On top fasten three hatelets and on the first platform range a symmetrical border of jelly squares all around. (2616). TUEZEY OE GOOSE IN DAUBE (Dindon ou Oie en Danbe). Draw a turkey cock; singe and lard it with large lardons (No. 2, Fig. 52); season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and chives, then stuff it with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), into which mix quarter-inch squares of red beef tongue and lean ham. Place the turkey in a braziere lined with slices of fat pork, carrots, minced onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf, a clove of garlic, a gill of brandy and a split knuckle of veal. Boil, skim and simmer gently and allow to braise for three and a half to four hours. Blanch separately some carrots and small onions, both trimmed into five-eighths of an inch balls, and when the turkey is partly cooked remove it from its stock, strain the liquid, wash the saucepan, and return the turkey to it with its strained and skimmed stock; range around the carrots and onions and finish cooking the vege- tables and turkey slowly. When well done, drain, untruss and lay it in an oval stone or tin vessel with the vegetables around, pour the stock (which should be sufficiently consistent to form a jelly) over and let cool off, then unmold the turkey on a long cold dish; surround the base with chopped lelly and jelly croutons (No. 2442). A goose in daube can be prepared the same way as the turkey. (2617). YOUNG- TUEZEY BEEASTS, GUSTAVE DOEE (Pilots de Dindonneau a la Gustave Dor6). Raise the breasts from two turkeys; remove the minion fillets and the skin, and saute 1 them in butter and lemon juice; set them separately under a weight to cool, then pare and cover over twice with white chaudfroid (No. 596), the same as for chaudfroid of turkey Perigord (No. 2462). Decorate with cuts of truffles, and cover with half-set jelly. Pare the four minion fillets, remove the light skin, and the sinews, and range them in a buttered sautoir, one beside the other, shaping them like crescents; cover over with buttered paper, and poach in a hot oven for a few moments, then cool them off and coat over with a brown chaudfroid (No. 594). Cut some slices of unsmoked red beef tongue three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and from these pare slices the same shape as the minion fillets, and cover them with jelly. Dress the turkey breasts on a cut- out rice support, and around a pad of bread covered with green butter (No. 583); decorate around this support with finely chopped jelly, and on it lay the minion fillets and tongue intercalated, and outside of the jelly place some triangular-shaped croutons (No. 2442), cut much longer than their width. On top of the support have a vase made of vegetables, filled with small stuffed mush- rooms, as explained in No. 2517. (2618), WILD BOAE'S BUAD, DEOOEATED (Sure de Sanglier De'core'e). Cut off the head of a wild boar or wild pig at the neck, near the shoulders; singe and scrape carefully; when well cleaned bone it, beginning under the lower jaw, and when thoroughly boned rub it over with four ounces of salt and one of powdered saltpetre. Lay the head in a vessel with thyme, bay leaf, basil, mace, cloves, juniper berries and carrots; leave it in two days, rub it over once more and let remain six days longer; drain, open, suppress all the aromatics, remove the greater part of the meats, and cut these into half-inch squares. Have a pound of truffles in a ves- sel with a pound of pork minion fillet cut in half-inch pieces, the boar's tongue and a calf's tongue, both to be pickled (No. 15), cooked and cooled under a weight, then cut in three-eighths inch squares; also have a pound of blanched fat pork cut up the same size, and a quarter of a pound of green pistachios; season highly and mix these ingredients with a forcemeat prepared with two pounds of lean pork, a pound of lean veal and three pounds of fresh fat pork, the whole chopped finely and forced through a sieve. Fill the head with this preparation, close and sew up the aperture, fill the mouth with carrots so as to keep it open, cut off the ears and cook them separately in stock 802 THE EPICUREAN. (No. 194a), keeping them firm; tie the head in a cloth and boil it for five hours over a slow fire; set it to cool for half an hour, unwrap it and reshape the head as near as possible by wrapping tightly around it a linen band, beginning at the snout and finishing at the base of the head; press lightly; when entirely cool unwrap. This head may be shaped in a specially made mold, then lanmolded and glazed. Reconstruct the head with imitated eyes and fangs, and glaze over the well-pared ears with meat glaze and fasten on with skewers; lay it on an oval stand made of rice, in two parts, the lower part one and a half inches high the top part one inch high; on the edge of the lower one place a wreath of oak leaves; garnish the lower tier with truffles in paper cases ancj the base with chopped jelly and croutons, and ornament the head with some hatelets. FIG. 537. Head Cheese. Salt a pig's head for three days in a light brine or \v sea salt; cook it I* remoistening (No. 189), with onion, thyme and bay leaf added. After it is done bone it entirely and cut the meat into half-inch squares. Also cut a few slices from the fatty cheek part and with them line a square tin mold. Put the squares of meat in a receptacle sufficiently large to contain them, and mix together; add four finely chopped shallots, peppei , nutmeg, a soupspoonful of chopped parsley, a glassful of good white wine and a pint of melted jelly (No. 103); mix all together. Pour all of this into the larded mold, place it in the oven aivd let cook slowly for half an hour. Remove and cover with a board, naving a pound and a half weight on top. Cut in slices and serve cold. (2619), WOODOOOK A LA VALEEE (Becasses a la Valere>, Roast six woodcocks; let them get cold, then raise the fillets from them all; suppress the skin and pare into the form of half -hearts, all the same size. Pound the vemainder of the meats and the insides, from which the gizzard and pouches have been removed and to which half as much foies-gras has been added, the whole fried in butter. "With this forcemeat mash the fillets on the side that adheres to the breast-bone. Put the broken bones into a saucepan with half a pint of white wine, a bay leaf and a minced shallot; let simmer slowly for half an hour, then run it through a fine sieve; add this fumet to an espagnole reduced to the consistency of a sauce, then add some jelly, cool on ice, stirring continually, and when the chaudfroid is sufficiently consistent cover the woodcock fillets; after it becomes quite cold cover with half-set jelly (No. 103), pare and dress on a dish in a circle on a nicely carved rice foundation, one and a half inches high. Lay chopped jelly around and garnish the center with some salpicon tartlets made of foundation paste (No. 135), cooked white and filled with a salpicon of game, red tongue and mushrooms, mingled with a little brown chaudfroid (No. 594). Surround with jelly croutons of two shades alternated, brown and white the former made of brown jelly and the latter of white. COLD SERVICE. 803 COOKED SALADS (Salades Cuites), (2620). DRESSINGS OE SEASONINGS TOR SALADS, TARRAGON AND CHILI VINEGAR (Assaisonnements pour Salades, Vinaigre a 1'Estragon et au Poivre de Chili). Rfonoulade Sauce, Pimentade with Tomatoes, Tarragon and Chili Vinegars. The quan- tity of salad to be seasoned and the necessary proportions must be taken into consideration when using these dressings. When a salad is served no oil should ever remain at the bottom of the bowl; the quantity of oil varies according to the salad. It generally takes three to five spoonfuls of oil for one of vinegar. This can be varied according to taste. Americans do not like the taste of oil in which the taste of the olive is prominent, and therefore prefer a neutral olive oil. "When a salad is prepared away from the dining-room it is better to put the salt and pepper in a bowl, dissolve them with the vinegar, add the oil and mix well; then pour this over the salad, and stir it in a common salad bowl before removing it to the one intended for the table, this being a much cleaner method. There are glass decanters for mixing the seasonings, adding to them an egg- yolk and a little mustard; shake this well, and by so doing a light mayonnaise is obtained that can be poured over the salad. Another way is to put the salt and pepper into a spoon, add the vinegar, mix with a fork, pour it over the salad and afterward the oil, or else put the salt and pepper into the salad, stir, then add the oil, stir once more and lastly pour in the vinegar, stirring it well again. Tarragon Vinegar. Fill a two-quart jar two-thirds full with layers of tarragon leaves, shallots and onions; pour over some very strong vinegar and use it two months later, filtering it before doing so. Chili Pepper Vinegar. Put into a quart jar half its height of Chili peppers, cover with strong wine vinegar, and three months later it can be used, either with the peppers or filtered. (2621). ASPARAGUS SALAD (Salade d'Asperges). Cut the tender parts of asparagus into pieces of equal length and tie them in bunches, then cook them in salted water and leave them to get cold. A few minutes before serving mix them in a bowl with a third of their quantity of pared crawfish tails; season with salt and pepper. Eub through a sieve the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, dilute this with oil and vinegar, and pour over this sauce the asparagus and crawfish, then arrange the salad symmetrically in a salad bowl and add the seasoning to it. (2622), BAGRATION SALAD (Salade a la Bagration). Have some very white lettuce leaves, some anchovies, marinated tunny fish, stoned olives, beetroot cut small, minced gherkins and escalops of lobster. Season the lettuce leaves and lay them at the bottom of a bowl; also season the other ingredients with a little mayonnaise (No. 606), lay them on top of the lettuce, and dredge over and around a border of chopped truffles to decorate. Place on top quartered hard-boiled eggs, in the center a pretty lettuce heart, and around this some chervil, tarragon, water cress, parsley, burnet and chives, all chopped up very fine and divided into six parts, arranging them tastefully around the lettuce heart. (2623), BEEF SALAD WITH TOMATOES (Salade de Bceuf aux Tomates). Scallop or trim in slices some cold boiled or braised beef, pare the pieces round-shaped, and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, also very finely cut-up chervil and chives; lay all on a plate or *alad bowl, giving it a dome-shape, and garnish around the salad with peeled and quar- tered tomatoes. (2624). CAPON SALAD A LA MORTIMER (Salade de Chapon \ la Mortimer). Have a cold roast capon, cut off the thighs and the breasts; suppress all the skin, fat and bones. Divide the meat into slices three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and these into round pieces an inch in diameter; lay them in a deep dish, and season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and mustard. Now put into a salad bowl half a pound of salted cucumbers, half a pound of potatoes, a quarter of a pound of minced red radishes, a quarter of a pound of celery or celery knob, all being minced up very fine; season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, chopped chervil and tarragon, and mix 804 THE EPICUREAN. thoroughly. Cut into eight pieces sufficient artichoke bottoms to form a border, dip the tips of each piece into finely chopped parsley. Prepare rounds of truffles one inch in diameter by one- eighth of an inch in thickness; arrange the vegetables at the bottom of a a cold dish, lay the capon on top, cover with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), and surround the whole with the artichoke bottoms; inside this border lay symmetrically the slices of truffles, and inside of these slices of beetroot cut smaller than the truffles, and on top of the beets smaller bits of gherkin; finish the center with a small cluster of truffles. Send this salad to the table to show the guests before removing it to stir and serve. (2625). CHICKEN SALAD, AMERICAN STYLE-CHICKEN MAYONNAISE (Salads de Poulet a rAmericame Mayonnaise de Poulet). Cook a four-pound chicken in some stock (No. 194a); the time allowed for this varies considerably, according to the age of the chicken, but the usual length of time is about two hours. When the chicken is done put it into a vessel, pour its own broth over, and let it cool therein; remove it, and begin by lifting off all the skin and white parts from the breasts; cut the meat into dice from five to six-eighths of an inch, and lay them in a bowl, seasoning with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Chicken salad may be prepared either with lettuce or celery, the latter being generally pre- ferred. Choose fine white celery, wash it well, drain and cut it across in one-eighth of an inch thick pieces or else in Julienne; dry them in a cloth to absorb all the water remaining in them. fat at the bottom of a salad bowl intended for the table some salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; mustard can be added if desired; mix the seasoning in with the celery. For lettuce prepare an ordinary lettuce salad. Lay the pieces of chicken on top, and cover the whole with a layer of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606); decorate the surface with quartered hard-boiled eggs, anchovy fillets, olives, capers and beets; place some lettuce leaves around, and a fine lettuce heart in the center. Chicken Mayonnaise. Cut into five pieces a roasted chicken weighing two pounds and a half, remove the skin and pare nicely. Season the chicken the same as for No. 2625; two hours later toss it in the vessel with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613) and dress it pyramidically without any green salad; cover with jelly mayonnaise, and garnish around with halved eggs, olives, capers, anchovies, beetroots and chopped jelly. (2626). MIGNON SALAD (Salade Mignonne). Pare four heads of endive or escarole that are not too large, suppress the outer leaves, and wipe ihe others well without washing them; cut either of these salads across in two parts, put the upper part of the leaves in a bowl, cut up the other half into large Juliennes, and season with salt, pepper and some fine oil. Cut in medium Julienne four peeled truffles cooked in wine, season them also with salt and oil, cut up the same as the truffles two breasts of chicken cooked in butter and lemon juice without attaining a color; let them get cold and lay them on a plate. Shell four hard- boiled eggs, rub the yolks through a sieve and set this in a bowl, diluting with some mayonnaise (No. 606), a good spoonful of mustard and a dash of vinegar; add one after the other, first the truffles, then the endives, and lastly the chicken breasts, all previously drained of their seasoning. Dress the salad in a salad bowl, and decorate the top with truffles, beetroot, gherkins and lobster coral. (2627). CHICKEN SALAD WITH VEGETABLES (Salade de Poulet auz Legumes). Cut up a large roast chicken into eight pieces, four from the breasts and four from the legs, suppressing the pinions and carcass; remove the breast bone and the second joint bones, then cut the meats and the fillets each in two or three pieces, taking off the skin; put them in a vessel to season with salt, oil and vinegar. Prepare a macedoine salad (No. 2650), cut in small dice; for instance, carrots and turnips blanched and cooked in stock (No. 194a), also green peas and string beans boiled in salted water. After all these vegetables have been cooked and drained lay them in a bowl and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; mix in some cut-up gherkins and beets, and let macerate for one hour. Drain off the seasonings and finish with mayonnaise, slightly thickened with jelly (No. 606). Dress the chicken and the vegetables in a dome-shape on a cold dish; cover COLD SKRV1CE. 805 this with a layer of the same mayonnaise, and decorate near the top with a row of sliced truffles; divide the dome between the truffles and the bottom into panels by means of round slices of FIG. 538. gherkins. Surround the base of the dome with slices of beets and potatoes, overlapping. Garnish the top with string beans. (2628). OEAB SALAD (Salade de Orabes). Cook some crabs as explained in bisque of crabs (No. 198); pick the meat from the shells and put it on the ice; serve when very cold, seasoned with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; sprinkle over the whole some finely cut-up chives aud chervil, also some chopped lobster or crab coral. (2629). CRAWFISH SALAD A LA MAINTENON (Salade d'Ecrevisses a la Maintenon). In order to dress this salad in an elegant manner, and with a required solidity, it is better to fasten a wooden bottom to the dish, covering it with white paper and having on the upper outer edge a small wooden or cardboard ledge, and in the center a thin support equally covered with white paper. Detach the tails from the bodies of six or eight dozen large, cooked crawfish; sup- press the tail shells and claws. Pare the meat from the tails, put it into a bowl, and season with salt, oil and vinegar; empty the crawfish bodies, and rub the insides through a sieve. Stuff about fifteen of these bodies, when well cleaned, with a salpicon composed of poached oysters and cooked truffles; mix in with it the meats from the claws, and the parings from the tails, and stir in a good FIG. 539. white chaudfroid sauce (No. 596). Let the preparation become firm by keeping the stuffed bodies for half an hour in the refrigerator. Cut in small quarter-inch squares some cooked and cold fillets of sole and salmon, also some anchovy and herring fillets, some marinated tunny-fish, poached eggs, potatoes and salt cucumbers; put this salpicon into a bowl, and season it with salt, oil, vinegar and mustard, then let macerate for one hour. Drain off the seasoning, and add to it a mayonnaise with jelly (No. 618). Dress it dome-shaped on the wood fastened to the dish, and let it get firm for a quarter of an hour in the ice-box; remove the dish from the ice, and cover the dome with a layer of jellied mayonnaise (No. 613). Stick in the crawfish tails one by one, with the point of a larding needle so that they lay symmetrically against the dome in two graduated rows; cover them at once with half-set jelly, and garnish the hollow of the second or top row with a bunch of green leaves or a bunch of chopped jelly. Send a sauce-boat of mayonnaise (No. 606) to the table at the same time. (2630). CRAWFISH SALAD WITH JELLY (Salade d'Ecrevisses a la GelSe). Detach the tails from the bodies of several dozen cooked crawfish; suppress the shells from the tails and largest legs; pare the meats, season, and keep them covered. Prepare a macedoine salad (No. 2650), cut into small dice, add to it the legs and parings of shrimps, also cut in dice; season with salt, oil and vinegar, and let marinate for one hour. Select a plain border mold with a nar- 806 TFLE EPICUREAN. row cylinder, imbed it in broken ice, and decorate its sides with eggs cut in two, alternated with some small vegetable balls dipped in half-set jelly; fill up the empty space in the mold gradually with some partly cold jelly (No. 103). Drain the salad on a sieve, lay it back into the bowl and mix in with it a jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); stir it on ice for a few minutes. Unmold the border on a cold dish; place into the cylindrical space a wooden foundation of exactly the same diameter, having on the FIG. 540. center a light upright support, both being covered with white paper; lay the salad around this support, giving it a pyramidical shape, smooth the surfaces, and cover it with a thin layer of thick jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); keep for two minutes on ice. Stick in the crawfish tails one by one, using a larding needle for the purpose, first dipping them in half-set jelly, then fasten them to the salad in three graduated rows, each one laying in a different direction, and forming a pyramid. As soon as each row is finished coat it over with some half -set jelly to consolidate it; in the hollow of the third or top row lay a pretty lettuce heart, and serve a sauce-boat of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) at the same time as the salad. (2631). riSH SALADS (Salades de Poissons). These consist principally of perch, trout, turbot and salmon. For these salads the fish must be boiled or cooked in a court-bouillon (No. 38) beforehand, so that they are cold when needed for use. They can also be made of sauted fillets of fish; in either case the skin and bones must first be removed. Put the fish into a bowl and season it with salt, oil and vinegar; it is generally arranged shaped as a pyramid on a cold dish, alternating and upholding the pieces of fish with a mixed cooked vegetable salad (No. 2650) cut in quarter-inch dice or balls five-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. When the salad is dressed, smooth the surface, and cover it with a layer of mayonnaise with jelly (No. 613), then let it get firm for half an hour in a cold place, decorating it afterward with pieces of pickled cucumber and truffles. Surround the base with halved hard-boiled eggs, standing upright one against the other, after cutting off a quarter of their lengthen the round end, so as to enable them to stand erect against the salad. A row of small lettuce hearts cut in four, and simply salted, may be arranged above the eggs, and also fasten a lozenged cut of very red and thin beetroot over the cut end of the egg, on top of the yolks (Fig. 492). Instead of an egg border, one of jelly may be substituted, decorated with shrimp tails, hard-boiled eggs, crawfish and stoned olives. (2632). FROG SALAD (Salade de Grenouilles), Have one pound of very white medium-sized frogs, cooked in a little mushroom broth, and seasoned with salt, pepper, butter and lemon juice; when cold cut the meats into three-eighths of an inch squares, and put them in a vessel with cooked artichoke bottoms, potatoes and hard-boiled eggs, all cut the same size as the frogs; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and macerate for fifteen to twenty minutes. Drain the salad on a sieve, return it to the vessel, and dress it with a consistent mayonnaise (No. 606), finished with mustard and chopped tarragon; arrange it in a salad bowl, smoothing the top to a dome. Split some lobster claw meat in two, season and form into a rosette in the center of the salad; decorate around with truffles and gherkins, having a lettuce heart exactly in the middle. (2633). HERRING SALAD WITH POTATOES (Salade de Harengs et Pommes de Terre). "Wash four salted herrings, soak them in milk for several hours, then drain and dry them. Kemove the fillets and cut them into half-inch squares; cut into three-eighths inch squares eight ounces of cooked potatoes; add a four-ounce apple, peeled and cored, then minced very finely, half COLD SERVICE. 807 a pound of roasted veal cut in quarter-inch squares, a four-ounce pickled beetroot cut in three- sixteenths inch squares, and four ounces of salt cucumbers cut equally into quarter-inch squares. Put into a salad bowl the potatoes, herrings, apples and veal; season with oil and vinegar, a little hot water or broth (No. 194a), salt, pepper, mustard and some chopped chives, all well mixed; smooth the surface with a knife and decorate it with anchovy fillets, pickled cucumbers, beets, capers, pickled cherries and the yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs, chopped up very fine, also some chopped parsley. (2634). IMPERIAL SALAD (Salade ImpSriale). Cut off some green asparagus tops one inch in length; cook them in salted water in an untin- ned copper basin; drain and lay them in a bowl, seasoning with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Cut some cooked truffles into large Julienne the same length as the asparagus, season them the same, and half an hour later lay them on top of a sieve to drain well, then add them to the asparagus and mingle them both with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), having a little mustard added. (2635). ITALIAN SALAD (Salade Italienne). Cook in salted water one pint of green peas, half a pint of string beans, half a pint of carrots and as much turnips, both of these pushed through a tin tube; they should be a quarter of an inch in diameter, and three eighths of an inch long. First blanch the carrots and turnips, then cook them in broth (No. 194a) with salt and sugar, and when done drain and leave them to get cool. Put into a salad bowl the carrots, green peas, some green peppers, string beans, turnips and finely cut-up chervil, tarragon, chives and finely chopped parsley; season with salt, pepper, vinegar and oil, mixed well together. Cut some beets and potatoes in an eighth of an inch thick slices, remove some rounds from these with a vegetable cutter three-quarters of an inch in diameter, then season ; set the beetroots alternated with the potatoes around the base; near the top place a row of round slices of pickles half an inch in diameter; divide the height between the potatoes and the pickles with fillets of anchovies into six panels; in the center of these place a round slice of mortadelle and on the top lay some small channeled mushrooms (No. 118). (2636). JAPANESE SALAD (Salade Japonaise). Cook some peeled potatoes in broth (No. 194a), cut two pounds of them in slices while still warm, and season them with salt, pepper, olive oil, vinegar, also half a pint of white wine, some chervil, chives, tarragon, shallot, parsley and burnet, all finely and separately chopped up. Cook some mussels with minced onions, branches of celery, mignonette, but no salt, adding a little vinegar and water; set them on a good fire, toss them frequently, and when done so that they open take them from the shells and cut away their foot or black appendage. Put the potatoes into a bowl with one pound of the mussels, or else very small clams may be substituted, stir them up lightly, and dress in a salad bowl, covering the surface with slices of truffles cooked in champagne. Set the salad in a cold place for one hour, and when serving it mix in the truffles. (2637). LAMB SALAD A LA SOMEE (Salade d'Agneau a la Somer). Cut slices of braised lamb a quarter of an inch in thickness; arrange on a deep dish in straight rows over a bed of sliced cooked potatoes. Decorate the whole with some anchovy and bloater fillets, slices of pickled gherkins, capers, small pickled onions, chopped chervil and chives, salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and mustard. Garnish the dish with hard-boiled eggs (Fig. 492) and lozenge- shaped pieces of beetroot, also a few tarragon leaves. Serve without stirring, so as to avoid break- ing the slices of meat. (2638). LOBSTER OR SPINY LOBSTER SALAD, AMERICAN STYLE (Salade de Homard on de Langouste k 1'Ame'ricaine). Cook two medium lobsters weighing three pounds each, let get cold, then break the shells and remove the meat from the tails and claws, cutting it into five-eighth inch dice; season all with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and mustard, and let macerate for half an hour. Drain, and range them in a salad bowl over a bed of white and well-seasoned lettuce leaves; dress it dome-shaped, and cover the surface with a firm and consistent mayonnaise (No. 606); decorate with the lobster claws, hard-boiled eggs, olives, capers, beets and pickled cucumbers, laying on the extreme top a pretty white lettuce head. 808 THE EPICUREAN. (2639). MAZARIN SALAD (Salade a la Mazarin). Boil in salted water two heads of celery knobs; let them get cold, then cut them up into fine slices, and with an inch diameter column tube (Fig. 168) remove all that it is possible to obtain, then range the pieces in a salad bowl. Cut the white ends of two celery stalks into pieces one and a half inches long, wash them well, and split them finely lengthwise; lay them in cold water for half an hour. Drain them off, and add to them the celery knob in the salad bowl, also eight ounces of cooked truffles cut into pieces the same size as the knobs. Season with salt, pepper, oil and vine- gar, and mix well by tossing them in the bowl in such a way as not to break the truffles. Pound four hard-boiled egg-yolks, rub them through a sieve, add to them a tablespoonful of mustard, half a pint of oil and a little vinegar; mix this in with the celery and truffles; range it in the bowl for the table, and sprinkle over some chopped chervil, chives and tarragon. (2640). MIKABEAU SALAD (Salade a la Mirabeau). Have some shrimp tails, blanched oysters, truffles cooked in white wine, and potatoes baked in their skins, and cut into bits while hot, also the truffles. Season each article separately with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; macerate them from fifteen to twenty minutes, then drain and mix them together in a bowl, and thicken with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), and a little tarragon mustard. Dress the salad in a salad bowl, smooth the surface, and decorate the top with some shrimp tails and truffles kept aside for this purpose. (2641). NORWEGIAN SALAD (Salade a la Norvegienne). For this salad have one pound of salted anchovies (sardels), soak them in cold water for two hours, and then wipe them with a cloth to remove the white skin covering them; cut off the fillets, pare the ends either on one side or the other, and split them across in two. (Herrings may be used instead of anchovies.) Cut into quarter-inch squares some boiled potatoes, boiled celery root, boiled and pickled beetroot, raw russet apples, and roasted tenderloin of beef, having half a pound of each kind, also half a pound of minced cabbage blanched for fifteen minutes, and then drained and cooled; put all these into a bowl, season highly with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and mix together thoroughly. Range the pieces in a salad bowl, garnish the edge and inside of the bowl with a row of well-drained pickled oysters, about three dozen in all, and cover with a jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); inside of this row of oysters make another one of olives stuffed with anchovy butter (No. 569); divide the surface in quarters, and on one quarter lay chopped hard-boiled egg-white, on the next quarter some finely chopped chervil and chives, the third quarter filled with hard-boiled egg-yolks, and the last quarter with chopped beetroot. Decorate the oysters with slightly blanched tarragon leaves dipped in jelly, and lay between each olive a thin slice of pickled cucumber, and stick in the center a finely pared bunch of white celery, previously laid in cold water to curl nicely. (2642). OYSTER SALAD (Salade d'Huitres). Half -fill a salad bowl with white and finely cut lettuce leaves; place on top some pickled oysters cut in two or three pieces, and cover with a layer of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). Decorate the top with lobster coral, beetroot, pickled cucumbers, capers, hard-boiled eggs and small pickled oyster crabs, or else use young pepper grass, two inches long, and well washed. (This cress can be sown in pots and will grow during the whole season; the smaller the plant the better and stronger is the taste.) (2643). SALMON SALAD (Salade de Saumon). Cook some slices of salmon; when cold separate the meat in flakes. Mince some celery very fine, place it in a salad bowl with the salmon over it; season with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, mixed in another vessel and thrown over it. Pour over some ravigote mayonnaise sauce (No. 612), decorate the top with tarragon leaves, lobster coral, quartered hard-boiled eggs and fanciful cut of truffles. (2644). PARISIAN SALAD (Salade Parisienne). Cut in quarter-inch squares some artichoke bottoms, beetroots and celeriac, boiled in water, and some cooked potatoes. Lay these vegetables in a bowl with a sliced, salted and pickled cucumber; add some marinated tunny-fish, season and pour over some good sweet oil. Pass COLD SERVICE. 809 through a sieve six cooked egg-yolks, beat them with a spoonful of olive oil, a tablespoonful of mustard and tarragon vinegar. Dress the vegetables, cover them with this sauce, and decorate the top with anchovies, olives, truffles, shrimp tails and a few fanciful cuts of red beef tongue. (2645). RUSSIAN SALAD (Salade Kusse). Lay in a salad bowl two ounces of celeriac cut in fine Julienne, four ounces of boiled and cold potatoes, cut in quarter-inch squares, four ounces of artichoke bottoms, each one divided into sixteen pieces, four ounces of well-pared roast sirloin of beef, cut in quarter- inch squares, four ounces of string-beans cut lozenge-shaped, two ounces each of chicken, ham and tongue cut into three-sixteenths of an inch squares: season with salt, pepper and vinegar. Cover the whole with a highly seasoned mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), in which some mustard is mixed, and garnish all around the outer edge with cucumbers and gherkins cut in fine slices, alternating them, and having one overlapping the other, then toward the center decorate with another row of sliced truffles, inside of these a row of beetroot, inside a row of anchovies and capers, and in the center lay a fine lettuce heart. There may be arranged outside of the cucumbers, and upright against the salad bowl, a row of thin slices of sausage. (2646). RUSSIAN SALAD FOR LENTEN DINNERS (Salade Russe au Maigre). Have some small quarter-inch carrot balls, small sticks of turnips, both blanched and cookec 1 separately in water with some butter, salt and sugar, green peas and lozenge-shaped string beans, both cooked in salted water. Lay these vegetables in a salad bowl in four distinct sections, cover them over with a mayonnaise (No. 606), highly seasoned, and set on top four groups, one composed of smoked salmon, one of fillets of sole, one of salt herring, and one of egg-white, all cut into quarter-inch dice. Decorate with fillets of anchovies, sliced pickled cucumbers, capers, olives, shrimps, beetroots and truffles, and in the middle set a fine lettuce heart. (2647). SHRIMP SALAD (Salade de Orevettes), Skin the shrimps, already cooked in unsalted water, season them with salt, pepper, oil and vine- gar, and serve them in a salad bowl on top of lettuce leaves, and sprinkle over some chopped parsley; lay a lettuce head on top, or, if preferred, when the shrimps are dressed, cover them with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), and instead of laying them in the salad bowl they may be set inside a border made as follows: Coat a border mold (Fig. 470) with some clear jelly (No. 103), decorate it through a cornet with lobster butter and Montpellier butter (No. 580), then fill it up with whipped jelly. Unmold and surround it with quartered hard-boiled eggs, and garnish the inside of the border with some seasoned lettuce; on top of this lay the seasoned shrimps in a pyramid, and sprinkle some chopped parsley over them; set on the summit a lettuce heart, and serve a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) separately. COOKED VEGETABLE SALADS (Salades de Legumes Cults), (2648). OARDOON OR CELERY SALAD (Salade de Gardens ou de Celeri), Have one pound ot cardoons, remove the stringy outside coat, and cut them into inch' long pieces, then cook them the same as cardoons with half-glaze (No. 2710). When done, drain and fry them in a pan with some oil, adding one clove of garlic, salt and sweet Spanish peppers, and halt a gill of vinegar. Let boil up only once, then lay the cardoons in a salad bowl, pour the liquid over, stir well and serve. (2649). CAULIFLOWER, MAYONNAISE SALAD (Salade de Ohoux-fleurs, Mayonnaise). Lay some fine, white, cooked, cold and seasoned cauliflower in a spherical-shaped mold; un- mold it over a salad bowl, and cover it entirely with a highly seasoned mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). Garnish it around with slices of pickled beetroot and dredge over some fine herbs and capers. 810 THE EPICUREAN. (2650). MACEDOINE SALAD (Salade Maofidoine). Have four ounces of artichoke bottoms, four ounces of celery knob, four ounces of beetroot, four ounces of turnips all cut in quarter-inch squares, four ounces of string beans, cut lozenge-shaped, four ounces of asparagus tops and four ounces of green peas, all cooked separately in salted water, then refreshed, except the beetroots, which must be cooked whole and cut into squares afterward. Season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and mix with a fine herb mayonnaise (No. 612). (2651). OKRA AND SWEET PEPPER SALAD (Salade de Gombo et de Piments Doux). Cut the ends and stalks from some tender, stringless okras; cook them in salted water, refresh and drain, then lay them in a salad-bowl. Throw some sweet peppers into hot fat, peel off the skins and cut them in Julienne, add them to the okras, and season with a fine herb mayonnaise (No. 612). (2652). POTATO AND BEETROOT SALAD (Salade de Pommes de Terre et Betteraves). Cut some cold boiled potatoes in three-sixteenths inch slices, also some cooked and pickled beetroots; remove twenty-four rounds from each of these, using a one-inch diameter vegetable cut- ter, and range them crown-shaped, one overlapping the other, intercalating the beets and the potatoes, both previously seasoned. Fill the hollow in the center with finely cut, seasoned lettuce, romaine or escarole, and cover with a layer of very thick mayonnaise (No. 606); decorate the summit with anchovy fillets and tarragon leaves; surround the border with quartered hard-boiled eggs. (2653). POTATO AND HERRING SALAD (Salade de Pommes de Terre et de Harengs). Cut in three-eighths of an inch squares, four pounds of potatoes cooked in salted water, half a pound of sour apples cut in four, peeled and minced, eight medium-sized vinegar pickles also minced, and four salted herrings boned and cut in three-eighths inch dice, previously unsalted in cold water. Put the potatoes into a bowl, season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and when the seasoning is well mixed add the apples, pickles and herrings, a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion, and four spoonfuls of pickled beetroot cut in quarter-inch squares; mix all the ingredients thoroughly, then range the salad on a dish or in a salad bowl. (2654). HOT POTATO SALAD (Salade de Pommes de Terre Claudes). Cook twenty potatoes, either in water or steam, leaving on their skins; drain as soon as done, peel and cut into slices; lay them in a bowl with two or three gills of boiling broth (No. 194a) poured over, season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and add two spoonfuls of finely chopped white onion. This salad can be served with roast veal, lamb or mutton. (2655). POTATO SALAD IN BORDER WITH TRUFFLES (Salade de Pommes de Terre en Bordure aux Truffes). For a plain potato salad put some fresh boiled and sliced potatoes into a bowl, season them with salt and pepper, oil, vinegar and chopped fine herbs. For a Bordered Salad with Truffles, have some carrots and turnips sliced one inch long by three-quarters wide; take out pieces with a three-eighth inch column tube, and put them to cook in salted water; when done drain them, and set on the center of each piece of carrot and turnip one asparagus top an inch and three-quarters long; range them crown-shaped, intercalating the car- rots and turnips, and set some chopped jelly around. Garnish the center with the potato salad dressed dome-shaped; cover the potatoes with round slices of truffle and then serve. (2656). OYSTER PLANT SALAD (Salade de Salsifis). Scrape two pounds of oyster plants, plunge them as soon as they are done in water acidulated with vinegar, then cut into inch long pieces. Dilute two spoonfuls of flour with two quarts of water, add to it salt and the juice of a lemon, a medium-sized onion, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf; boil up the liquid, then put in the oyster plants, and let simmer until they are thoroughly cooked, then set them aside to drain and get cold, and cut each one into four pieces lengthwise. Range these in a salad bowl, season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, also some chopped parsley, and half an hour before serving cover with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). CO-LD SERVICE. 811 (2657). STEING BEAN SALAD (Salade de Haricots Verts). Have one pound of small string beans; if too large cut them lengthwise in two, and cook them in salted water in an untinned copper vessel; refresh them and drain. Put them into a salad bowl and season with salt and pepper, adding one tablespoonful of vinegar and three of oil. (2658), WHITE BEAN SALAD (Salade de Haricots Blancs). When the white beans are cooked the same as for No. 2701, and cold, put them in a salad bowl with a little shallot, chives and parsley, all finely chopped, and for each quart of beans add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and six of oil, salt and pepper; stir well and serve. EAW VEGETABLE SALADS (Salades de Legumes Cms), (2659). CABBAGE SALAD WHITE OR EED (Salade de Choux-Blancs ou Kouges). Have either a very fresh white or red cabbage; suppress the outer leaves, also the hard parts and core; mince it up finely, and lay it in a bowl, sprinkle over some salt, and let macerate for one hour, then drain off its liquid and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. A cabbage salad, called cold slaw, is made by shredding the cabbage as finely as possible and seasoning it with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and tomato catsup. (2660). OELEKT SALAD AND OELEEY KNOB SALAD (Salade de Oeleri et Salade de Oeleri Eave) Eemove the first stalks, which are generally hollow, and put the good ones into a bowl of cold water; cut each stalk into pieces one inch and a half long, then divide these pieces into lengths the same as a large Julienne; wash well, drain and dry them thoroughly; season with salt, pepper, mustard, oil and vinegar. Celery Knob. Choose these very tender, peel and cut them into thin round slices, set them in a bowl in layers, salting each one separately. One hour later pour off the water and season with oil, vinegar, ground pepper and mustard. Macerate for one hour in its seasoning, and then serve. (2661). OUCUMBEE SALAD, ENGLISH STYLE (Salade de Ooncombres a 1'Anglaise), Select the tenderest cucumbers, peel off the rind, slice the interior finely, and lay them in a dish, sprinkle over some fine salt, and let macerate for fifteen minutes; season them, after strain- ing off the liquid, with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, adding some chopped parsley. English /Style. The same, only add a very finely minced onion. (2662). OUOUMBEE AND TOMATO SALAD (Salade de Ooncombres et Tomates). The same as for English style, only adding very firm, finely sliced and peeled tomatoes as well as the onion. (2663). EGGPLANT SALAD, PEOVENQAL (Salade d'Aubergines Prove^ale), Peel and slice some eggplant into quarter of an inch thick slices, pare it in rounds one and a quarter inches in diameter, lay them in salt for ten minutes, then sponge them off and season with pepper, garlic, oil and vingear; then add the same quantity of water cress and a few hard-boiled (2684). GEEMAN SALAD WITH OEOUTONS (Salade Allemande aux Croutons). Blanch in boiling water one pound of sauerkraut for five minutes, refresh and add to it one pound of red cabbage previously pickled in vinegar. Out up the sauerkraut to make the pieces shorter, and lay them in a bowl with three ounces of very fine chopped onions, blanched and refreshed; add to this one ounce of grated horseradish and a tablespoonful of chopped chervil. Season with salt, pepper, six tablespoonfuls of olive oil and two of vinegar, and serve in a salad bowl with a ring of round croutons on top made of fragments of puff-paste (No. 146), one and a quarter inches thick, cut with a round pastry-cutter, then cooked in a very slack oven. 812 THE EPICUREAN. (2665). ONION SALAD-BERMUDA (Salade d'Oignons de Bermude). Mince the onions very finely, either with a knife or the machine, and season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. (2666). TOMATO SALAD (Salade de Tomates). To peel tomatoes throw them into boiling water; cut them in slices across and season with salt, pepper, vinegar and a little oil; arrange them in a salad bowl. (2667). TRUFFLE SALAD A LA GAMBETTA (Salade de Truffes a la Gambetta). Mince six fine peeled Piedmontese truffles, weighing eight ounces, put them into a bowl with three artichoke bottoms, previously cooked and cut into eight pieces. Kub through a sieve four hard-boiled egg-yolks, lay them in a bowl with two tablespoonfuls of mustard, work well together, then incorporate three gills of oil and tarragon vinegar; rub the bottom of a salad bowl with a clove of garlic, set the truffles in, and the artichokes over; cover all with some mayonnaise (No. 607), mixing in also some tarragon, chervil, chives and parsley, all finely chopped. GREEN SALADS (Salades Vertes), (2668). CHICORY SALAD (Salade de ChicorSe). Select the chicory heads; having yellow hearts and very fine leaves; cut away all the green and wash the white part, drain and shake well in a napkin or wire basket to remove all the water. Season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, chervil and tarragon, or, instead of these herbs use a piece of bread-crust after rubbing a clove of garlic over it. This piece of bread is called a capon. (2669). CORN SALAD OR LAMB'S LETTUCE SALAD (Salade de Mache on Doucette). This salad can be mixed with monk's beard and slices of cooked beetroot. It should be well picked and all the yellow leaves removed; clean the roots, cut them off when too large, and divide the stalks into two or four parts; add cooked slices of beetroot and chopped chervil; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Monk's beard may be mixed with it, half and half. (2670). DANDELION SALAD (Salade de Dent-de-lion). This salad takes the place of wild chicory, especially in winter, and by growing it in cellars it can be had very white and tender. Prepare and season it the same as monk's beard (No. 2674). (2671). ESOAROLE AND ENDIVE SALAD (Salade d'Escarolle et d'Endive). Take the leaves when quite yellow, remove the hard parts, and split each leaf in the center its entire length; it is always preferable not to wash these salads, as the leaves can be cleaned by wiping them. Season with salt, pepper, oil. vinegar and finely chopped chervil and tarragon. (2672). LETTUCE SALAD, PLAIN (Salade de Laitue, Simple). Choose freshly gathered and well-filled lettuce heads, suppress the hard leaves, keeping only the yellow ones; pick them off the stalks, retaining the heart whole, the size of an egg, and cut it in four. Split each leaf through the center, wash them at once, drain, wipe and shake the salad well to extract all the water, then place it in a salad bowl, sprinkling over some chopped chervil and tarragon. Put into a bottle four egg-yolks, two spoonfuls of vinegar and eight of oil, some salt and pepper; shake the seasoning up well in the bottle, and pour it over the lettuce, stirring it until it is properly mixed. COLD SERVICE. 813 (2673), LETTUCE AND ANCHOVY SALAD (Salade de Laitue aux Anchois), This is made with well washed and dried lettuce by shredding it up finely; season and lay it in a salad bowl, cover with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), decorated with fillets and an- chovies, hard-boiled yolks and whites of eggs, and some finely chopped herbs. A lettuce salad may be served garnished with hard-boiled eggs and plenty of herbs. Lettuce salad may also be seasoned with sweet or sour cream instead of oil. (2674). MONK'S BEAED SALAD (Salade de Barbe de Capucin), This salad is very much liked and is exceedingly wholesome. Clean it well by wiping the leaves with a towel do not wash it; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, adding a few slices of beetroot. (2675). COS LETTUCE SALAD (Salade de Bomaine). Remove all the green leaves until the yellow ones are reached; wipe each leaf well, and split them lengthwise, then cut into two-inch long pieces, continuing as far as the heart; split it in four; place in a salad bowl and season the salad with chervil, tarragon, all finely cut, egg-yolks (one egg for two persons) and dilute with eight spoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar; add salt, pepper and green mustard; mix well when ready to serve. The egg-yolks may be suppressed. (2676). WATEE OEESS AND APPLE SALAD AND NONPAEEIL [CHirPONADE] SALAD (Salade de Oresson aux Pommes d'Arbre et Salade Nonpareil [Chiffonade].) Have very clean and green water-cress; season it only when ready to serve with a very little oil, salt, pepper, vinegar and some sour apples cut in slices. Pepper water-cresses are prepared the same. Nonpareil (Chiffonade) Salad. Place in the bottom of a bowl some seasoning composed of salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; mix well with a fork. Mince some lettuce very fine, also the same quantity of chicory and celery; dress dome-shaped in the bowl containing the seasoning. Chop up separately the whites and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares the same volume of beets and potatoes. Divide the dome in four equal parts with anchovy fillets, garnish one of these parts with beets, one with the chopped egg-white, one with the chopped yolks, and the last one with the chopped potatoes; bestrew over all finely chopped truffles, parsley, lobster coral, and in the center place a nice Spanish olive. ADDITIONAL RECIPES. VEGETABLES OL6gumes), (2677). AETIOHOKE BOTTOMS A LA ELOEENOE (Eonds d'Artichauts a la Florence). Prepare and cook some artichoke bottoms the same as for la Villars (No. 2682); fill the hollow in th.e center with minced truffles and mushrooms fried in butter, this to be drained off and the preparation mingled with well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407); let get cold after they are filled dome form, and smooth neatly with a knife; then lay them on a buttered sheet, bestrew with bread- crumbs and grated parmesan, pour butter over and color in a hot oven. Dress them in a circle, filMng the center with blanched artichoke bottoms, cut in six parts, pared and cooked in butter; pour over a buttered supreme sauce (No. 547) and send to the table. (2678). ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS A LA JUSSIENNE (Eonds d'Artichauts a la Jussienne). Turn some artichoke bottoms the same as mushrooms (No. 118), rub them over with lemon and cook in a seasoned white stock (No. 182), to which add pieces of marrow; drain when well done. Mince a few mushrooms, cut them into strips and fry them in butter; drain off the latter and replace it by thick bechamel sauce (No. 409); cover the artichoke bottoms with this, mask over with allemande sauce (No. 407), reduced with a little jelly (No. 103), into which mix more mushrooms and chopped truffles; allow to cool; roll them in white bread-crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, again in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine golden color; drain, wipe and arrange them on a dish in a circle, having the center filled with sliced cooked sweet potatoes, cut three-eighths of an inch thick and one and a quarter inches in diameter. Serve separately a Colbert sauce (No. 451). (2679). AETIOHOKE BOTTOMS A LA MONTGLAS (Ponds d'Artichauts a la Montglas). Have some artichoke bottoms prepared and cooked the same as for la Villars (No. 2682); drain and fill the hollow centers with a montglas garnishing cut in small sticks, composed of red beef tongue, truffles, mushrooms and some cooked white meat of a chicken; mingle them with a well reduced allemande sauce (No. 407), and remove from the fire at the first boil and leave till cold; then fill the artichoke bottoms, forming them bomb-shaped on top; cover with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), smooth and strew bread-crumbs and grated parmesan over the entire surface. Range them on a small baking sheet, pour plenty of clarified butter over and finish cooking in a slack, oven, basting frequently. (815) 816 THE EPICUREAN. (2680). AETIOHOKE BOTTOMS A LA MOENAY (Fonds d'Artichauts a la Mornay). Wipe dry ten to twelve cooked artichoke bottoms, all of the same size; fill the hollow side with a foies-gras baking forcemeat (No. 81), mixed with a few spoonfuls of chopped cooked truffles; smooth the top of the preparation and cover with a layer of well-reduced Mornay sauce (No. 504) ; bestrew the sauce with parmesan cheese, and brown for two minutes under a salamander (Fig. 123). (2681), AKTIOHOKE BOTTOMS A LA SOUBISE (Ponds d'Artichauts a la Soubise). Prepare a soubise puree (No. 723). Select some equal-sized cooked artichoke bottoms, drain and wipe them on a cloth; cover the hollow side with a part of the soubise puree (No. 723) and let it get cold, then over this lay a thin layer of delicate raw chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89); besprinkle with bread-crumbs, and brush over with butter. Range these artichoke bottoms in a sautoir with some good gravy (No. 404), and heat them well while browning slightly. (2682). AETIOHOKE BOTTOMS A LA VILLAES (lends d'Artichauts a la Villars). Procure twelve raw artichoke bottoms; when turned (Figs. 547-548) and pared blanch them in salted water and cook in white stock (No. 182), with aromaticsand a little white wine, keeping them slightly firm; drain on a cloth and then cut out the bottom with a two and a quarter inch diameter tin cutter. Lay them in a sautoir, moisten with a little chicken bouillon (No. 188) and a small piece of butter. Reduce the liquid entirely. Mince some white onions, blanch them for a few minutes, fry them lightly in butter and moisten with broth (No. 194a) and cream, half of each, adding the same quantity of minced fresh mushrooms; reduce and leave to cool. Drain the artichoke bottoms, cover the hollow side with the preparation, and this with a layer of raw cream forcemeat (No. 75); strew over bread-crumbs and grated cheese, and lay them in a sautoir with a little stock (No. 194a); color in a moderate oven, and dress on a well-buttered reduced cream veloute sauce (No. 415). (2683). AETIOHOKE BOTTOMS FEIED (Fonds d'Artichauts Frits). Pare off the bottoms of some young, tender and stringless artichokes; after cutting away the green part divide each one in four, remove the choke and cut the leaves at half an inch from the bottom; divide each quarter in four and throw them at once into a pan of water acidulated with vinegar; drain and lay them in a vessel with salt, pepper, oil and lemon juice. Prepare a frying paste with flour, diluted with water, adding a few egg-yolks and a little olive oil; whip the whites to a stiff froth and beat them into the paste; dip each piece of artichoke into this and plunge them in hot frying fat; cook slowly, drain, wipe and salt over with salt; dress on a folded napkin with a bunch of parsley on top. (2684). AETIOHOKE BOTTOMS STUFFED LEAN (Fonds d'Artichauts Farcis au Maigre) . Pare eight or ten raw artichoke bottoms, blanch them in salted water and cook them in a white stock (No. 182) with aromatic herbs and a little white wine, keeping them rather hard, then drain them on a cloth. Prepare a duxelle (No. 385) composed of chopped onions, shallots, truffles and mushrooms, mingled first with a little smooth cream frangipane panada (No. 120), then with a little sauce; season the preparation and finish it with some raw egg-yolks, chopped parsley and a few spoonfuls of salted anchovy fillets cut in small dice. With this forcemeat cover the artichoke bottoms, smooth and bestrew with bread-crumbs; range them in a small deep baking dish, capa- ble of being placed in the oven, and besprinkle lightly with oil; finish cooking in a slack oven, basting over frequently. (2685). AETIOHOKE BOTTOMS WITH BAKED OAULIFLOWEE (Fonds d'Artichauts aux Ohoux- Fleurs Gratines). Have some artichoke bottoms cooked and prepared as for la Villars (No. 2682); drain and fill the hollow centers with flowerets of cauliflower; cover with bechamel sauce (No. 409), bestrew the top with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, baste over with butter, and range them at once on a buttered baking sheet; bake in a moderate oven and dress in a circle on a dish; pour bechamel cream sauce (No. 411) in the center, or else a brown half-glaze sauce (No. 413). VKGKETABLES. 817 (2686). ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH CREAM BECHAMEL. BAKED (Ponds d'Artichauts Bechamel a la Creme, au GratiuX Drain some cooked artichoke bottoms (Fig. 546-548) on a cloth, selecting those of equal size; fill the hollow in the center with a layer of delicate chicken godiveau (No. 82); cover this with cream bechamel sauce (No. 411) and besprinkle the surface with grated parmesan, pouring some butter over. Range them at once in a sautoir, having its bottom covered with a little good gravy (No. 404); baste over with more melted butter and bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes; they should be of a nice color. Dress in a circle on a dish and pour some cream bechamel in the center. (2687). ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS WITH MARROW (Ponds d'Artichauts a la Moelle). In case there be no fresh artichokes canned ones can be procured at any time of the year. Drain and range the cooked bottoms in a flat saucepan; moisten with a little good unskimmed stock (No. 194a) with white wine; heat them simply over a slow fire, but if too hard boil them until perfectly done. Soak two or three pieces of raw beef marrow, without the bone; wrap them up in fine pieces of muslin and poach for a quarter of an hour in stock (No. 194a). Just when pre- pared to serve drain the artichoke bottoms carefully, wipe them on a towel, and drain the pieces of marrow as well; unwrap these and let get partly cold; then cut them across in thick slices and glaze them with a brush ; keep them for a few moments at the oven door, then set one slice in the hollow of each artichoke bottom; dress these on a dish, cover with a little brown sauce (No. 414) reduced with Madeira wine, not having it too consistent. For garnishing artichoke bottoms, a macedoine of vegetables (No. 680) may be substituted for the marrow, or else green peas, Parisian style (No. 2745), with which mix a quarter as much cooked chicken, using only the white part cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares. (2688). ARTICHOKES QUARTERED A LA COLBERT, STUFFED A LA VILLEROI, FRIED AND BRAISED (Quartiers d'Artichauts a la Colbert, Farcis a la Villeroi, Frits et Praises). To prepare these artichokes the hard outside leaves must first be removed, the remaining ones shortened and the bottoms pared; then divide them in four, blanch in salted acidulated water until the choke detaches easily; throw them into cold water, drain and pare once more (see Fig. 545). They can be cooked in several ways, either sauteing in butter to finish the cooking, and adding just when ready to serve some meat glaze (No. 402), lemon juice, seasoning and chopped parsley. Or they can be cooked in a white stock (No. 182), and then served in their natural state, either by filling the space between the leaves and the bottom with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) that has had cooked fine herbs (No. 385) mingled in, then poached and cov ered with Villeroi sauce (No. 560), breaded and fried. Those not stuffed may also be breaded a la Villeroi and fried. They can also be braised in a sautoir lined with bards of fat pork; moisten with mirepoix stock (No. 419), and cover with more bards of fat pork. When done dress them in a vegetable dish, and have half of their stock skimmed and strained over; reduce the other half with espagnole sauce (No. 414), and when well reduced fill some hollowed-out bread-crusts (No. 51) with blanched marrow; cover with a part of this last sauce, and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. (2689). ARTICHOKES-WHOLE A LA BARIGOULE (Artichauts Entiers a la Barigoule), Pare eight medium-sized artichokes; suppress the hardest leaves from the bottom (Fig. 544) FIG. 542. FIG. 543. FIG. 544. . FIG. 545. FIG. 546. FIG. 547. FIG. 548. and cut the upper ones off straight on the pointed end; empty out the inside, or more properly speaking the chokes (Fig. 543), wash thoroughly and drain well, turning them upside down so as to 818 THE: EPICUREAN. have no water left in the inside. Pour some oil in a pan; when very hot fry the tips of the artichoke leaves in it. Should the bottoms be thin, then lay another one inside, thus having two bottoms to one artichoke. To make the dressing, chop up half a pound of fresh fat pork with half a pound of butter; add three finely chopped small shallots, a spoonful and a half of chopped pars- ley, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a pound of finely minced or chopped mushrooms, and a gill of Madeira wine. Have all these ingredients properly mingled, divide in eight parts, and fill the inside of the artichokes with them; cover with bards of fat pork, tie with two rows of string and lay them in a saucepan with slices of fat pork; on the bottom place carrots, onions, a bunch of parsley with thyme and bay leaf, moisten with half stock (No. 194a) and white wine; boil, skim and then cook in a moderate oven for one hour or longer, until the leaves detach easily; drain the stock, skim and reduce it with espagnole sauce (No. 414) to half-glaze, adding lemon juice. Untie the artichokes, suppress the fat pork and dress; cover lightly with a part of the sauce, serving the remainder sep- arately. (2690). ARTICHOKES WHOLE A LA EAOHEL (Artichauts Entiers a la Rachel). These proportions are for six artichokes: Pare them by removing the hardest leaves next to the stalk, suppress the green bottom part and cut off the tip of each leaf straight; empty the inside by removing all the choke (Fig. 543), wash and drain well. Cut a medium-sized onion and one shallot into small squares, fry in butter and add one pound of fresh mushrooms chopped very finely; place the saucepan on the fire and keep stirring with a spoon until the mushrooms have their moisture re. duced, then add some chopped parsley and fresh bread-crumbs; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and pour in a little bechamel (No. 409). Fill the artichokes bomb-shaped with this and lay on top one fine turned or channeled mushroom (No. 118); cover with bards of fat pork, tie with two turns of string and braise in a low saucepan lined with pieces of fat pork, moistening with white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419); drain this off when done, skim the fat and reduce to a quarter- glaze. Dress the artichokes and pour a little of the stock over. Serve separately a veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392), the rest of the stock and a little well-buttered tomato puree (No. 730); serve. (2691). ARTICHOKES-WHOLE-BOILED, WITH WHITE OR VINAIGRETTE SAUCE (Artichauts Entiers Bouillis, & la Sauce Blanche ou a la Vinaigrette). Select artichokes of a medium size; remove the hardest leaves from the base, pare the bottoms well, suppressing all the green part, then cut off the tips of each leaf straight (see Fig. 543). Put them into a saucepan of boiling salted water and cook until the leaves detach, then drain, remove the choke, and washing them in their own liquor range them on a napkin bottom downward to have them drain thoroughly; serve at the same time either a white sauce (No. 562) or else a vinaigrette sauce (No. 634). Boiled and cold artichokes are served with a vinaigrette sauce. (2692). BOILED ASPARAGUS WITH HOLLANDAISE, HOLLANDAISE MOUSSELINE OR VINAIGRETTE SAUOE (Asperges Bouillies k la Sauce Hollandaise k la Sauce Hollandaise Mousseline). Have the asparagus freshly picked, if practicable; trim the tops, and scrape or peel the stalks; then pare them into equal lengths, and tie them in small bunches, separating the larger ones from the smaller. Fasten them well with string. Boil the asparagus in plenty of salted water in an untinned copper basin, plunging them into the liquid; cover the vessel and let cook slowly. As soon as they are done drain them on a sieve, and afterward untie the bunches on a cloth and dress them symmetrically in a pyramid on a folded napkin; carefully reserve the handsomest ones for the top. Send to the table at the same time a good Hollandaise sauce (No. 477), or else a vinaigrette sauce. Vinaigrette. Put into a vessel six hard-boiled egg-yolks rubbed through a sieve, smooth nicely while beating with a spoon, and incorporate slowly two gills of good oil, two spoonfuls of cold veloute sauce (No. 415), a little vinegar, mustard, pepper, chopped parsley or chervil. Serve this sauce the same time as the asparagus, or else serve them with a Hollandaise mousseline sauce (No. 477). (2693). ASPARAGUS, COUNTESS STYLE-HEADS (TStes d'Asperges k la Comtesse). Scrape some green asparagus, cut them, leaving the tops two and a half inches long, and tie these into small bunches: cook in salted water, and when done cut off the strings and dress them in a pyramid; garnish around with bouche'es filled with asparagus tops and mushrooms as follows: After the asparagus is cut off for the above break the remaining tender parts of the stalks, and VEG-ETABLES. 819 cut them into quarter of an inch thick pieces; cook in salted water, and drain; put these into a saucepan with as much cooked mushrooms cut into quarter-inch squares, and dilute with good buttered veloute" (No. 415); season properly, and fill very hot bouchees (No. 11) with it. Serve a veloute sauce apart, having it thickened at the last moment with egg-yolks, cream, a liberal piece of fresh butter and lemon juice. (2694). ASPARAGUS IS SMALL BUNCHES HEADS (Tetes d'Asperges en Petites Bottes). Scrape the stalks of some medium-sized asparagus; cut them from the top end into two and a half inch lengths, and with these form small bunches, holding them together by two rings cut from a carrot about two inches in diameter; cook them in salted water. Use these small bunches for garnishing hot or cold removes, pouring a little Hollandaise sauce (No. 477) over, or else a vinai- grette sauce (No. 634), both to be well seasoned. (2695). ASPARAGUS TOPS A LA MAINTENON (Pointes d'Asperges a la Maintenon), Have all the asparagus of the same size, not too slender; break off the stalks at the beginning of the tender part; strip off the heads, and cut the tender part into inch lengths; put the heads aside to cook separately. Plunge the lengths into boiling salted water placed in an untinned copper pan; boil quickly, keeping them slightly hard, then wipe on a cloth, and put them into a thin sautoir with melted butter; season, heat rapidly while tossing, then remove. The asparagus can now be laid in a little veloute (No. 415) and chicken puree (No. 713). Serve the aspara- gus in a vegetable dish, surrounded with croutons of bread shaped like a cock's-comb, and fried in butter, just when prepared to dish up. (2696). ASPARAGUS TOPS PRIED A LA MIRANDA (Pointes d'Asperges Frites a la Miranda). Bend and break off the tender part of the asparagus into one inch lengths; blanch them well in salted water; drain and dip in fine cracker dust, then in beaten egg, and finally in bread-crumbs; fry, drain, salt, and dress on a folded napkin, laying a bunch of fried green parsley on top. Serve apart a sauce made with one hard-boiled egg-yolk mingled with one raw yolk, mus- tard, salt and pepper; beat vigorously, stirring in a little olive oil and tarragon vinegar. (2697). ASPARAGUS TOPS WITH OHEESE (Pointes d'Asperges an Fromage). Scrape some medium-sized asparagus; cut them into quarter of an inch lengths, cook in salted water, keeping them slightly hard, drain and put them into a sautoir with butter, and toss for a few moments over the fire to evaporate all the moisture. Drain off the butter, season and dress on a vegetable dish; cover the surface with freshly kneaded butter, into which mix as much grated parmesan as the butter can absorb; salt, if found necessary, adding a little cayenne pepper; push into a hot oven, and serve as soon as it browns. (2698). FRESH BEANS, WITH CREAM AND ENGLISH STYLE (Feves Fraiches a la Oreme et a 1'Anglaise.) Take freshly picked, shelled and tender beans; put them to blanch in salted water with a small bunch of savory added, then transfer them to a saucepan with hot butter; season. Fry them for two minutes on a hot fire to evaporate their moisture and thicken with a few spoonfuls of reduced bechamel (No. 409); remove from the fire and stir in a large piece of butter divided in small pats; finish with a little nutmug and serve with puff-paste croutons around. English Style. Blanch some fresh green beans in salted water until the skin detaches easily, then let get cold and suppress these skins; saute the beans in butter, season with salt, nutmeg and finely cut-up fresh savory. Transfer them to a vegetable dish and serve with thin slices of butter laid on top. (2699). LIMA OR KIDNEY BEANS, MAITRE D'HOTEL (Haricots de Lima on Flageolets Maitre d'Hotel). Have a pound of medium-sized, freshly picked lima beans; boil them in salted water in an untinned copper saucepan, then drain. Put four ounces of butter in a sautoir, heat it well, add the beans and saute\ seasoning with salt and chopped parsley; stir in a little veloute sauce (No. 415) and fresh butter, squeeze the juice of a lemon over, then serve. 820 THE EPICUREAN. (2700). EED BEANS, SMOTHERED (Haricots Kouges a l'Etuve"e). Steep a pound of red beans for six hours in cold water, drain, put them into a saucepan and moisten to double their height with cold water; add half a pound of blanched bacon, a carrot cut in four, and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. When the beans are three- quarters done, take out the carrots and herbs and put in one pound of small onions fried in clarified butter, also a pint of red wine; continue to boil until thoroughly done, then drain, and put them back into a sautoir and thicken with a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), seasoning with salt, pepper and chopped parsley. Dress the beans and surround them with the bacon cut up in slices. The red beans may be replaced by white or black beans. (2701), WHITE BEANS, THICKENED MAITRE D'HOTEL AND BRETONNE (Haricots Blancs Maitre d'Hotel Lie's et Bretonne). Put a pound of dry white beans to soak in cold water for six hours; place them in a saucepan and cover to three times above their height with cold water; set this on the fire and with- draw the saucepan to the side of the range at the first boil; add to it two ounces of butter, let cook, and when they crush easily under the pressure of the finger drain and transfer to another sauce- pan; season with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and nutmeg; add a little thickened maitre d'hotel butter and chopped parsley. Bretonne. Add chopped onions, cooked colorless in butter, to the above, and instead of the maitre d'hotel butter substitute espagnole sauce (No. 414), finishing with chopped parsley. (2702). BEETROOT FRITTERS A LA DICKENS ; BEETROOTS WITH BUTTER AND PINE HERBS AND BEETROOTS WITH CREAM (Beignets de Betteraves a la Dickens; Betteraves au Beurre et fines Herbes et Betteraves a la Oreme). Cut some beetroots cooked as below in slices, each one an eighth of an inch thick; wipe dry and place on half of them a quarter of an inch thick layer of the following preparation: Fry two well-chopped onions colorless in butter; add four ounces of chopped mushrooms and a pinch of minced chervil, salt and pepper; on this layer place another round of beetroot, and from the whole remove rounds an inch and a half in diameter; dip these in frying batter (No. 137) and plunge into very hot frying fat, drain, wipe and dress as a garnishing around a meat remove. With Butter and Fine Herbs. These beets can be cooked in boiling water or by steam with- out suppressing the stalk or root end; select them always of a fine red; peel after they are done and cut them up into quarter-inch thick slices and from these remove rounds two to two and a half inches in diameter; lay them in saucepan with salt, pepper and a little vinegar; saute for a few moments and serve; chopped parsley and chives can be scattered over the top. With Cream. After the beetroots are cooked and cut into slices, as above, simmer them in fresh cream, seasoning with salt, cayenne pepper and nutmeg; thicken just when ready to serve with egg-yolks and fresh butter. (2703). BRUSSELS SPROUTS A LA BARONESS (Ohoux de Bruxelles a la Baronne). Clean, prepare and cook the sprouts the same as for sauted (No. 2704); the only difference to be observed is that instead of boiling them entirely have them only three-quarters cooked. Put them into a saucepan with as many chestnuts also three-quarters cooked; moisten with fresh cream, season with salt and nutmeg, and let simmer together until done and the liquid suffi- ciently reduced. (2704). BRUSSELS SPROUTS SAUTED (Ohoux de Bruxelles Sautes). Select three pounds of the freshest and firmest Brussels sprouts, having them of as uniform size as possible; pare and plunge them into an untinned vessel full of boiling water to cook green; when done drain, refresh in cold water, drain once more, wipe and pare again. Put six ounces of butter into a sautoir and when hot add the sprouts; season with salt and shake them in the butter; sprinkle in some chopped parsley, and if so desired they can be mingled with a little veloute 1 sauce (No. 415). VEGETABLES. 821 (2705), CABBAGE IN BALLOTINES-STUFFED (Ohoux Farcis en Ballotines). Cut each of two clean cabbages in half, plunge them into boiling salted water and boil for fifteen minutes; then drain, refresh and press out all the water. Dampen some pieces of linen six by five inches; lay over each a thin slice of fat pork four by three inches, and on this spread a blanched cabbage leaf, mincing the heart-leaves up finely. Fry in lard four ounces of finely chopped onion, and one pound of chopped mushrooms; when the moisture has been evaporated from the latter add the minced cabbage, season with salt and pepper, then add half a pound of cooked sausage meat, and half a pound of boiled rice; thicken this preparation with a few raw egg-yolks and range it in the center of the spread-out leaves; roll each one in the shape of a sausage, then iu the bards of fat pork, and lastly in the linen; tie both ends the same as a boned turkey. Lay them in a sautoir, cover with more slices of fat pork, and pour in some unskimmed broth (No. 194a). then let cook for two hours; free the stock from fat, strain it through a sieve and reduce it with as much espagnole sauce (No. 414). Unwrap the ballotines, remove the pork and dress them in the center of a dish, covering over with a third part of the sauce, and serving the remainder in a sauce-boat. (2706). CABBAGE, PEASANT STYLE (Ohoux a la Paysanne). Parboil half a cabbage for fifteen minutes, remove the core, drain and braise; when well done drain once more and suppress the hard parts; mash the remainder with a spoon, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Have a linen bag two and a quarter inches in diameter; fill it with the seasoned cabbage and tie it firmly, pressing it down tight; lay this under a weight to get thoroughly cold, then cut it into even slices- remove the pieces of linen and dip each slice in beaten egg and then in bread crumbs; fry in clarified butter and dress in a circle. To fill the center chop up finely the other half of the cabbage, after blanching it for ten minutes and draining very dry; put it into a saucepan with fresh butter, and fry colorless; season, moisten with broth (No. 194a), and let simmer until thoroughly done and the liquid reduced, then drain off the fat and thicken with a little veloute sauce (No. 415) and fresh butter; lay this inside the circle as described above. (2707). EED OABBAGE A LA MONTAKGIS (Ohoux Kouges a la Montargis). Divide two red cabbages in four pieces, remove the core and the hard stalks from the leaves; mince finely, wash and drain. Place in a saucepan half a pound of butter, and half a pound ot bacon cut in quarter-inch squares; first blanch them, then let fry in the butter, and add the cab- bage, salt, pepper and nutmeg; moisten with a pint of broth (No. 194a) and a gill of brandy. Have six sour apples, peel, round and core them with a tin tube five-eighths of an inch in diameter; lay them in with the cabbage, and cover the top with a buttered paper; cook in a slow oven for two hours and a half. Just when ready to serve remove the fat and dress the cabbage in the center of a dish with the apples around, arranging a small Chipolata sausage (No. 754) between each one. (2708). KOHL-BABIES, HOUSEKEEPEB'S STYLE (Ohoux Eaves a la Me"nagere). Cut some medium-sized kohl-rabies in four equal parts, or if very large, then in six or eight; peel and pare them into crescent olive form, obtaining about three pounds in all. Blanch these in boiling salted water, refresh and drain once more. Put six ounces of butter into a sauce- pan and when very hot and cooked to hazel-nut (No. 567) lay in the blanched kohl-rabies and toss them so they do not color; moisten with broth (No. 194a), let cook, reduce to a glaze and when serving dilute with a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 409), also adding three ounces of fresh butter, a very small lump at a time. (2709), KOHL-BABIES, STUFFED (Ohoux Eaves Farcis). Shape them perfectly round and all of uniform size; empty out the insidesand stuff them while raw, or else blanch them first in boiling salted water for a few moments; the stuffing consists of godiveau forcemeat (No. 85), having truffles, mushrooms and parsley, all chopped up, mixed in with it; range them in a sautoir lined with fat pork and moisten with a little gravy (No. 404); when done drain and strain the stock, remove all of its fat and reduce it with as much espagnole sauce (No. 414). Lay the kohl- rabies over the sauce and serve. 822 THE EPICUREAN. (2710). CARDOONS WITH HALF-GLAZE (Oardons k la Demi-glace), Remove the large strings from a head of cardoon; cut the tenderest parts into four-inch lengths and throw them at once into cold acidulated water, then plunge them into boiling water, also acidulated with citric acid or vinegar; blanch until the downy skin detaches, rubbing with a cloth and drain to plunge at once into an abundance of cold water. Pare the cardoon, suppressing the superficial threads, and range them in a saucepan lined with fat pork; cover with more pork and moisten with unskimmed broth (No. 194a) mixed with a little white wine; add the cut-up pulp of a lemon, salt and aromatics, cover the saucepan and finish cooking very slowly. At the last moment drain them on a tammy, then on a cloth and cut them up into even lengths to dress in a pyramid on a dish, covering over with a half -glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced with Madeira wine. Cardoons may be covered with a veloute sauce (No. 415) or else a brown sauce (No. 414), having some poached marrow cut into large dice added. (2711). OAKKOTS, COLBERT (Garottes a la Colbert). Take a few dozen small, new carrots of uniform-size, trim them pear-shaped, blanch for a few moments in salted water, drain and lay them in a saucepan with a little butter, salt, a pinch of sugar and white broth (No. 194a); cook until they fall to a glaze, and should they then not be sufficiently tender, remoisten and reduce the liquid once more; finish with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413), butter and lemon juice. (2712). CARROTS GLAZED OR WITH FINE HERBS (Garottes Glacees ou aux Pines Herbes). Turn or cut out with a spoon (Fig. 91) some carrots, shaping them to resemble olives; blanch, then saute in butter with a little sugar; moisten with broth (No. 194a) and cook slowly until reduced to a glaze, and the moistening reduced the same, in the meanwhile having the carrots done; add a little root glaze (No. 403) and then dish up in a pyramid. For Fine Herbs add to the carrots prepared as for the above some chopped parsley and finely cut-up chives. (2713). CARROTS, VIENNESE STYLE (Garottes a la Viennaise). Scrape some large carrots and cut them up into balls with a vegetable spoon five-eighths of an inch in diameter; blanch them in salted water until half done, then drain, place them in a sauce- pan with white broth (No. 194a), salt and a very little sugar; finish cooking, letting the liquid fall to a glaze, and just when ready to serve thicken with a little well-buttered veloute sauce (No. 415), to which add lemon juice, fine herbs and meat glaze (No. 402). (2714). CARROTS WITH OREAM (Garottes a la Oreme). Cut some carrots into inch lengths; from the red parts remove cylindrical with a round vegetable cutter five-sixteenths of an inch in diameter; blanch until half done, then drain and saute* in butter with a little sugar; moisten with white broth (No. 194a) and put on to cook; when ready to serve boil with cream and thicken with egg-yolks and fresh butter. (2715). STDTFED CAULIFLOWER A LA BECHAMEL-BAKED (Choux-fleurs Farcis a la Bechamel au Gratin). Prepare, cook and drain the cauliflower the same as for fried bread-crumbs (No. 2718); scoop out the hearts and fill them with veal godiveau (No. 85), into which mix parsley and chives, both finely chopped. Place the cauliflower stalk downward on a buttered dish and cover over with allemande sauce (No. 407), into which mix half as much cooked herbs (No. 385). Strew the top with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan, pour butter over and push into a moderate oven for ten minutes; baste at frequent intervals and color the cauliflower; remove and decorate around with heart-shaped croutons fried in butter, then serve. (2716). CAULIFLOWER A LA VILLEROI, FRIED AND SAUTED WITH FINE HERBS (Ohonx-fleurs a la Villeroi, Frits et Sautes aux Fines Herbes). A la Villeroi. This is to be cooked and drained the same as for white sauce (No. 2719), then covered with well-reduced allemande sauce (No. 407) into which mingle chopped- up fresh VEGETABLES. 823 mushrooms and chopped parsley; when thoroughly cold immerse in beaten eggs, then in bread- crumbs, smooth the breading and fry it a golden color; drain, salt and dress on a folded napkin, laying a bunch of fried parsley on top. Fried. Have the cauliflowers cooked and well drained, then dip each piece in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color. Sauted with Fine Herbs. After the cauliflowers are boiled and drained the same as for the above, divide in flowerets and saute in butter, seasoning with salt, pepper and chopped parsley. (2717). CAULIFLOWERS WITH CHEESE BAKED (Choux-fleurs au Fromage Gratings). Suppress the hard parts from some cauliflowers, divide in small flowerets and cook in salted water. When they are tender and drained range them in layers in a vegetable dish with a little reduced bechamel (No. 409); bestrew with grated parmesan and pour over some butter; give them a dome shape and cover with a layer of thick bechamel, finished with grated parmesan and butter; dredge evenly with more parmesan and color nicely in the oven for twelve minutes. (2718). CAULIFLOWERS WITH PRIED BREAD-CRUMBS (Ohoux-fleurs a la Mie de Pain Frite). Divide some cauliflowers into separate flowerets all of uniform size; pare the stalks to a point, wash and drop them into a saucepanful of hot water, then boil the liquid very slowly. When the pieces are three-quarters cooked salt the water and withdraw the saucepan to allow them to finish cooking much slower; in this way they remain firmer; drain, dress the cauliflowers and cover over with butter having fried bread-crumbs added to it. (2719). CAULIFLOWERS, BROCCOLI, OR SEA KALE, WITH WHITE, BUTTER OR CREAM SAUCE (Ohoux-fleurs, Brocolis et Ohoux de Mer a la Sauce Blanche, au Beurre a la Creme). For serving whole with sauces the cauliflowers should be chosen very white and close; cut off the bottom of the stalks, clean the inner parts well, removing the outer peel and leaves covering the stalk, then lay them in a well-tinned and very clean saucepan containing hot water and a little butter; remove to the side of the range to cook slowly until three-quarters done, then salt the water and finish cooking. Dress on a folded napkin, the stalk end downward, and serve apart either a white sauce (No. 562), a butter sauce (No. 440), or a cream sauce (No. 454). Broccoli, a long-stalked cauliflower, can be prepared the same way, also sea kale; the only difference to be observed is that these must be served with slices of toast, buttered with fresh butter. (2720). CELERY WITH BECHAMEL AND CROUTONS (Celeri Bechamel aux Croutons). Cut into large squares, each one inch in size, the yellow stalks of a head of celery; blanch them in water, drain and place in a saucepan with a quart of white broth (No. 194a), an ounce of butter and a coffeespoonful of powdered sugar; cook so that the liquid reduces, and when the celery is done add to it a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 409), some grated nutmeg and salt. Just when serving incorporate two ounces of fresh butter; pour into a vegetable dish and garnish around with bread croutons shaped like small hearts (Tig. 40) and fried in butter. (2721). CELERY STALKS WITH HALF-GLAZE, ESPAGNOLE AND MARROW, OR VELOUTE SAUCE (Pieds de Oeleri a la Demi-glace a la Sauce Espagnole a la Moelle ou au Veloute'. Suppress the outer hard stalks from eight or ten tender, but not too large celery heads; cut the remainder into four or five-inch lengths and pare the roots to a point, Wash them carefully and blanch for twenty minutes; refresh and range them in a saucepan to cover with unskimmed broth (No. 194a); lay a buttered paper or a thin slice of fat pork on the top and cook very slowly. Drain, wipe well, pare and dress them on a dish; mask over entirely with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced with Madeira wine, or else an espagnole sauce (No. 414) with marrow, or a veloute sauce (No. 415) reduced with mushroom essence (No. 392) and buttered when ready to serve. (2722). OELERIAC MIRABEAU OR A LA VILLEROI (Celeri-rave Mirabeau ou a la Villeroi). Mirdbeau. Peel the celeriac, cut them either into balls with a large vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) or in the shape of cloves or crescents; blanch in salted water, drain and place in a deep buttered sautoir; cover with broth (No. 194a) and finish cooking while glazing; dress and pour over some Mirabeau sauce (No. 500). 824 THE EPICUREAN. A la Villeroi. Cut the celeriac into four pieces; pare them like cloves of garlic, having one pound in all; blanch in salted water, drain, place in a saucepan, adding half a pint of stock (No. 194a), and a little sugar; cook, drain once more, and when cold cover over with a Villeroi sauce (No. 560) with mushrooms and chopped parsley; lay on a baking sheet to cool, after which pare off the surplus sauce, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color; dress on a folded napkin, with a bunch of parsley leaves on top. (2723). OEPES, PROVENQAL STYLE (Oepes a la Provengale). Wash and wipe some cepes heads after suppressing the stalks; split them in two through their thickness and fry in oil over a brisk fire, with some chopped onions, a clove of garlic and bay leaf, seasoning with salt and pepper. When their moisture has been reduced add a little reduced es- pagnole sauce (No. 414) and tomato sauce (No. 549); boil up once or twice and finish with chopped parsley and lemon juice. Take out the garlic and bayleaf, dish them up and surround with croutons of bread (No. 51), fried in oil. (2724). OEPES BAKED WITH OKEAM (Oepes Gratings k la Oreme). Suppress the stalks from some clean cepes; divide the heads and salt over, flour them briskly and put them into a sautoir with hot butter, moisten with a little good raw cream, adding chopped onions and parsley and a bunch of fennel; finish cooking very slowly while covered for three-quar- ters of an hour, then remove with a skimmer, lay them in a bowl, and thicken the gravy with some good bechamel sauce (No. 409); let this reduce without ceasing to stir and when the sauce becomes succulent add to it the cepes and let cook for two minutes. Pour the stew into a vegetable dish, bestrew with bread-crumbs and bake for ten minutes in a quick oven; serve the cepes in this same dish. (2725). OEPES MINCED IN OEOUSTADES (Oepes EmincSs en Oroustades). Trim some bread croutons into ovals three inches long by two inches wide and half an inch thick; slit them all around an eighth of an inch from the edges and fry in clarified butter; re- move the tops and empty them completely. Peel some cepes, cut them in two through their thick- ness, salt over and leave them for twenty minutes, then mince them finely and fry in butter; drain this off and transfer them to a saucepan, adding some sour cream; finish cooking, then mingle in a little bechamel sauce (No. 409) and meat glaze (No. 402); add a small bit of finely cut-up green fennel and fill the croastades with this preparation; serve at once, very hot. (2726). OEPES STUFFED (Cepes Farcis). Choose cepes of even size one inch and three-quarters to two inches in diameter, firm and fresh; remove the stalks and scoop out the heads from the stalk end with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91), then peel and salt over; chop up the stalks and parings, mix with them some fat pork and cooked ham, both chopped, bread-crumb panada (No. 121), chopped parsley with a clove of garlic, a few raw egg-yolks, salt and pepper. A quarter of an hour after fill the hollow spaces with the prepared dressing and strew with bread-crumbs; range them in a sautoir, pour over butter or oil and cook very slowly for one hour in a slack oven, while covered; serve with their own stock, thickened with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) or bechamel sauce (No. 409). (2727). CHESTNUTS WITH GKAVY (Marrons au Jus). Remove the shells from several dozen large chestnuts, then scald so to be able to peel off the red skins; put them into a buttered flat saucepan, salt and moisten to their height with good broth (No. 194a); boil the liquid and withdraw the saucepan to a slower fire to have the chestnuts cook while remaining whole. When tender the moisture should be entirely reduced; glaze with a brush before serving. VEGKETABJL.ES. 825 (2728). CHICORY TIMBALES (Timbales de ChicorSe). Have some chicory prepared the same as for cream (No. 2729), strain it through a sieve; put one pound of this into a saucepan with four ounces of finely chopped cooked mushrooms, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg; mix in singly four whole eggs, two yolks and lastly a gill of cream. Decorate some timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), or a larger one, with fanciful cuts of truffles and tongue; fill these with the preparation and lay them in a sautoir on the fire; pour in boiling water to reach to half their height, boil and finish poaching in a slack oven; unmold and serve separately a Hungarian sauce (No. 479). (2729). OHICOKY WITH OEEAM (Ohicor^e a la Oreme). Pick eight chicory heads, suppress all the green leaves, wash well, and cut the bottoms into a cross; plunge into boiling salted water, and let cook for twenty-five to thirty minutes; refresh, drain, press out all the moisture, and pick over carefully to remove any small straws or other impurities that may be found among the leaves, then chop up finely. Heat some butter in a sauce- pan, put in the chicory, and dry it over a brisk fire for ten minutes without ceasing to stir; add a heaping tablespoonful of flour, some salt, nutmeg, sugar and rich cream; when very hot and ready to serve incorporate four ounces of fresh butter. If to be served as a vegetable pour it into a vegetable dish, and surround with bread croutons (No. 51) fried in butter. (2730). CORN ON THE COB-BOILED (Mai's Bouilli en Tige). Select white and close-grained corn; open the husks without tearing, and remove the silk found between these and the corn; brush over, and close up the husks, tying them at the ends, or remove them entirely from the stalk end, either way being optional, then cut the stalks off straight at both ends. Boil them in water, to which add a quarter as much milk and salt. They take about twenty to twenty-five minutes to cook. Dress in a napkin, serving butter at the same time. (2731). CORN OUT UP, SUOOOTASH AND CORN PANCAKES (Mais Coupe", " Succotash," et Crepes de Mai's), Cut-up Corn. Boil the corn without the leaves the same as for on the cob (No. 2730); split the grains with a knife through the center their entire length; press down forcibly with the back of a knife to extract all the inside parts without the skin; season in a pan with salt, pepper and fresh butter; toss well, and serve very hot in a vegetable dish, Succotash. Use corn that has been cut the same as in the preceding paragraph, having as much lima beans or string beans. Saute both corn and beans together in butter, adding salt and pepper. The succotash can be thickened with a little veloute sauce (No. 415), or bechamel sauce (No. 409). Corn Pancakes. The same preparation as for ordinary unsweetened pancakes, mixing in as much cut-up and chopped corn. Make pancakes a quarter of an inch thick; color well, and serve them very hot. (2732). CUCUMBERS PRIED, BREADED ENGLISH STYLE AND FRIED A LA VILLEROI (Oon- combres Frits, Pane's a 1'Anglaise et Frits a la Villeroi). Fried. Cut some peeled cucumbers in slices a quarter of an inch thick by one and three-quarters inches in diameter; empty out the center seed parts with a three-quarter inch diameter tube; salt over for fifteen minutes, then drain, wipe, dip them in flour, and fry to a fine golden color in very hot frying fat. Fried Breaded English Style. Cut the cucumbers in two-inch lengths and then once across in the center; peel, remove the inner seeds, round the corners, and cook them in salted water. Drain, wipe, immerse in beaten eggs, bread-crumb English style, and fry to a nice color, having fennel sauce (No. 463), served apart. Fried a la Villeroi. Prepare and cook the cucumbers the same as the glazed ones (No. 2733), and cover with cold Villeroi sauce (No. 560); place on a baking sheet to cool; take them up with a thin knife; dip each piece in egg and bread-crumbs, fry to a good color, and dress on a folded napkin. 826 TFLE EPICUREAN. (2733). CUCUMBERS GLAZED (Ooncombres GlacSs). Split some cucumbers crosswise into two-inch pieces, having them an inch and a half in diame- ter, and each of these lengthways and across to obtain four quarters; peel and remove the seeds; pare them into the shape of cloves, add garlic, and cook in salted water; drain, wipe on a cloth, and put them in a thin sautoir with melted butter to reduce their humidity, then pour off the butter, and moisten with some gravy (No. 404), letting this fall to a glaze. (2734). CUCUMBERS STUFFED (Concombres Farcis). Peel the cucumbers and cut them in inch lengths; empty each piece with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91), retaining a quarter of an inch at the bottom; blanch, then cook in consomme (No. 189) and drain. Fry a little onion in butter, add some chopped mushrooms, evaporate their humidity, then throw in some chopped truffles and parsley, also a little gravy (No. 404); simmer and add soaked and well-pressed bread-crumbs and raw egg-yolks. Stuff the cucumbers with this, stand them on a dish, bestrew the cucumbers with bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan, pour over melted butter and finish cooking brown in a moderate oven. Dress in a vegetable dish on a little half- glaze sauce (No. 413). (2735). EGGPLANT A LA DUPERRET-BROILED (Aubergines Grilles a la Duperret). Peel some eggplants, cut them up into three-eighths of an inch thick slices, each one to be three inches in diameter; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and let marinate for two hours, then drain off and dry; baste over with oil and broil them on a slow fire; dress with maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581) poured over. Eggplant can also be prepared by cutting it up three-quarters of an inch in thickness and three inches in diameter; score and besprinkle with fine salt; leave for one hour, then wipe dry and season with salt and black or red pepper, pour over a little oil, and turn them frequently before broiling to a fine color on a slow fire. Fry a little well-chopped shallot, mushroom and parsley in butter, season with salt and pepper, add a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), and lemon juice. Dish up the eggplant and pour the sauce over after incorporating a small piece of fi-esh butter. (2736). EGGPLANT IN CASES A LA MORTON (Aubergines en Caisses a la Morton). Butter some cases, either of paper or china; cover the bottom of each with a slice of peeled eggplant an eighth of an inch thick, and around with small bands of the same, exactly like an apple charlotte; cut up the remainder of the plant in squares, and fry them colorless in butter, then drain. Chop up as much cooked chicken meat as eggplant, and mix both together with mushrooms, truffles and chopped parsley, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg, adding a very little thick allemande sauce (No. 407). With this preparation fill the cases, smooth the tops and bestrew with bread-crumbs; pour a little oil over and push into a moderate oven; when done drain off the fat, cover over with a little half -glaze sauce (No. 413) and serve. (2737). EGGPLANT A LA ROBERTSON (Aubergines a la Robertson). Have some peeled eggplants cut in half-inch diameter slices, sprinkle over with salt, and leave them to marinate for twenty minutes, then wipe and fry in oil over a brisk fire; color them to a light golden brown, season and drain; dress in a circle, intercalating a layer of bechamel sauce (No. 409) between each slice; fill the center of the circle with more eggplant, cooked smothered with a piece of butter, then pressed through a sieve. Cover the whole with thick bechamel, and scatter on white bread-crumbs and a little grated parmesan; pour over fresh butter and brown in a hot oven, serving as quickly as it assumes a fine color. (2738). EGGPLANT STUFFED AND BAKED (Aubergines Farcies Gratings). Divide some small eggplants, each one in two, without peeling them; score and fry, then drain and empty out the center with a spoon, leaving a layer a quarter of an inch thick against the peel. Chop up the parts that have been removed, adding as much soaked and well-pressed bread-crumbs, and a clove of crushed garlic; cook the preparation for a few moments, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and remove from the fire until it loses its greatest heat, then finish VEGETABLES. 827 with a few raw egg-yolks and chopped parsley. Fill the interior of the halved eggplants with this, smooth the tops and range them on a baking sheet; pour over plenty of oil and cook in a slack oven. When a fine color dress them on an espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with tomato sauce (No. 549) and run through a fine sieve. (2739). EGGPLANT FRIED (Aubergines Frites). Peel some eggplants; cut them into three-eighths of an inch slices, and from these remove round pieces two and a half inches in diameter, using a pastry cutter for the purpose; roll them in flour and then fry to a fine color, or they can be fried plain without any flour. Another Way is to cut peeled eggplant into three-eighths of an inch slices and divide these into squares; salt over and drain for fifteen minutes on a sieve; wipe on a cloth and flour them quickly, a few at a time; drop them into very hot frying fat, and when done and of a fine color drain, salt and dress either kind on a napkin. Breaded Eggplant. Cut each slice a quarter of an inch thick; remove from them rounds two and a quarter inches in diameter; dip them in flour, then in beaten egg, and lastly in bread- crumbs; smooth the breading with a knife and fry to a fine color; drain and dress on a napkin. (2740). ENDIVES OR ESOAROLES GLAZED (Endives ou Escaroles Glace"es). Wipe the endives well, cut them of an even length and range them in a flat buttered saucepan; season and baste over with butter; cook on a slow fire while covered and with no other moistening, turning them over once only. At the last moment drain off the endives; arrange them on a dish and unglaze the saucepan with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) or light bechamel (No. 409), then strain the sauce over. (2741). GREEN PEAS-MANGETOUT-A LA FLEURETTE (Petits Pois Mangetout k la Fleurette). These are prepared with "mangetout" peas, a species of very tender peas, the pods of which are eaten as well as the contents. String the threads on both sides of the pod from some "mange- tout" peas after they are partly cooked; drain and put them in a saucepan with some fresh cream; let simmer until the peas are entirely cooked, and just when serving season with salt, a little sugar, finely cut-up chives and a dash of vinegar. They can be thickened with egg-yolks, cream and fresh butter just before serving. (2742). GREEN PEAS, ENGLISH STYLE, AND PUREE OF GREEN PEAS (Petits Pois a 1'Anglaise et Pure"e de Pois Verts). Boil some green peas in an untinned copper vessel containing boiling salted water and a few mint leaves; when cooked, drain and place them in a sautoir with salt, sugar and fresh butter, divided in small pats, mixing it into the peas without stirring them. Dress in a vegetable dish and lay small bits of butter on top. Puree of Green Peas. To obtain a puree pound the cooked and drained peas in a mortar, adding some very thick bechamel (No. 409); season with salt and sugar, press through a fine sieve, and return to the saucepan to boil; stir in some fine butter at the last moment. (2743). GREEN PEAS, FRENCH STYLE (Petits Pois a la Frangaise). Put one pint ot fresh-shelled green peas into a saucepan with a little cold water, stirring in a piece of butter; add salt and a bunch of parsley; cook with the lid on. When sufficiently done and the liquid reduced add a small piece of kneaded butter (No. 579); then take from the fire and finish by incorporating a large piece of butter divided in small bits. The peas should be well buttered and thickened so that the liquid be entirely absorbed. With Sugar. Prepare them exactly the same, only adding a pinch of powdered sugar. (2744). GREEN PEAS, HOUSEKEEPER'S STYLE (Petits Pois a la Menagere). Take half a pound of lean unsmoked bacon cut in quarter-inch squares; blanch, drain and put them into a saucepan with four ounces of butter; fry the bacon colorless, then add a spoonful of flour and when this begins to brown moisten with a quart of stock (No. 194a); add three quarts of shelled fresh peas, a bunch of parsley and three green onions. When the peas are done remove the parsley and onion, drain off the stock, thicken it with a little kneaded butter (No. 579) and pass it 828 THE EPICUREAN. through a sieve; put it back with the peas, boil both together again and remove from the fire- thicken with egg-yolks diluted in cream, at the same time incorporating a piece of fresh butter. (2745). GEEEN PEAS, PAEISIAN STYLE-SMALL (Petits Pois fins a la Parisienne). Cook some small green peas in a pan or small copper vessel with salted water, a large green onion and a bunch of parsley; as soon as done, take out the parsley and onion, drain through a colander without refreshing and put the peas into a sautoir with a pinch of sugar and nutmeg, thickening with a little veloute sauce (No. 415); take the peas from the fire, toss well and dress in a vegetable dish, garnishing around w r ith puff paste croutons. (2746). GEEEN PEAS WITH BEAISED LETTUCES (Petits Pois aux Laitues Braisees). Blanch and braise fifteen lettuce heads; drain them to pare, fold and trim evenly; put them back into the sautoir and pour over a few spoonfuls of half-glaze (No. 400) so as to be able to heat them up. At the last moment dress them in a circle on a dish, alternating each one with a thin bread-crumb crust fried in butter and then glazed with a brush. In the hollow of the circle dress a garnishing of small green peas cooked in salted water and simply finished with a piece of fresh butter. (2747). GEEEN PEAS WITH SHEEDDED LETTUCES (Petits Pois aux Laitues Oisele"es). Put a pound and a half of fresh green peas, recently shelled, into a saucepan with two tender lettuce heads shredded up coarsely, one small onion, a bunch of parsley, salt, a pinch of sugar and sufficient cold water to reach to about their height; cover the saucepan and cook for twenty to twenty-five minutes on a hot fire. Suppress the parsley and onion, thicken the liquid with a small piece of butter kneaded with flour (No. 579), and finish off the fire with a lump of fresh butter divided in small pats. (2748), HOP STALKS OE POINTS PEIED AND WITH VIENNESE SAUCE (Pointes on Tiges de Houblon Frites et a la Sauce Viennaise). Select the white parts of some young hops; these should be picked from the 15th of May to the 15th of June; blanch them in boiling water with salt, drain and lay them on a dish to season with salt and lemon juice, roll in rice flour, dip them in frying batter (No. 137), not too thick, plunge into hot fat, and when done drain, salt and serve. Viennese. After the hops have been cooked in salted water, drain well and place them in a vegetable dish, covering over with Viennese sauce (No. 558). (2749). JEEUSALEM AETIOHOKES A LA SALAMANDEE (Topinambours a la Salamandre). Pare Jerusalem artichokes into three-quarter inch rounds, or else in the shape of a pigeon's egg; cook in salted water, drain and saute in butter without letting attain a color. Prepare a puree by placing some peeled Jerusalem artichokes in a saucepan to boil; drain when done, and cover over with a damp cloth; dry in the oven, then press through a sieve. Return this puree to the sauce- pan; season with salt, nutmeg, fresh butter and egg-yolks, and form it into a border inside a dish, either pushed through a channeled socket pocket or else modeled with the hand; lay the sauted Jerusalem artichokes in the center, strew grated parmesan over, cover with some rather thin cream bechamel sauce (No. 411), and then more parmesan; color in a brisk oven, serving it immediately after it is baked to a golden brown. (2750). LENTILS WITH BACON (Lentilles au Petit Salel Soak' a pound and a half of lentils for six hours, after picking and washing them in several waters; put them into a saucepan with half a pound of unsalted and blanched lean breast of bacon, some carrots, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, an onion with one clove stuck in it, pepper, nutmeg and stock (No. 194a); boil, skim, and simmer until thoroughly done, and after removing the carrots, parsley, onion and pork, drain off the stock, toss the lentils in butter, and sea- VEGETABLES. 829 son with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and lemon juice, or they can be sauted with a little alle- mande sauce (No. 407). Dress and surround with well-pared slices of the bacon, and over this pour a little gravy (No. 404), then serve. (2751). LETTUCES CHOPPED WITH CKOUTONS (Laitues Haohfea aux Croutons). Pick and pare nicely some lettuce heads by removing the green leaves from the bottom of the stalk; detach all the leaves separately, and wash them in several changes of water, then blanch, refresh and drain; press down well to extract the liquid; pick over to remove all straws and other impurities that may be attached to the lettuce, then chop it up finely, and lay it in a sauce- pan with a piece of butter; dry over the fire, and season with salt and nutmeg, adding a pinch of flour; moisten with some clear gravy (No. 404), and then dress. Surround the lettuce with croutons fried in butter. The gravy may be replaced by cream and the flour by veloute sauce (No. 415) or espagnole sauce (No. 414). Cos lettuce can be prepared and served the same way. (2752). LETTUCES STUFFED AND FEIED (Laitues Farcies et Frites). Pare and wash some lettuce heads in several changes of water, blanch them in a copper basin and cook in boiling, salted water for twenty minutes; drain, refresh and press out the liquid from each one separately. Spread them on a cloth, open the leaves, and fill each lettuce with a forcemeat ball an inch and a half in diameter, prepared as follows: Take a quarter of a pound of cooked chicken meat, the same of cooked ham, the same of cooked mushrooms, and add a pound of veal udder, a quarter of a pound of soaked and pressed-out bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, minced chives and five egg-yolks, the whole to be well pounded in a mortar. Enclose the forcemeat ball in the lettuce. Wrap each of these in a slice of fat pork, braise Tor one hour, drain and dip in egg and bread-crumbs, either whole or cut in two, fry to a fine color, and serve with a half -glaze sauce (No. 413) apart. (2753). LETTUCES WITH HALF-GLAZE SAUCE-STUFFED (Laitues Farcies a la Sauce Demi-Glace). Blanch some pared and well-washed lettuces for ten to twelve minutes; drain on a sieve, and press them singly to extract all the water, then double them over and range them in a sautoir lined with fat pork; season and moisten with broth (No. 194a), cover with buttered paper and cook for one hour on a slow fire. Drain the lettuces once more, open them and stuff with veal quenelle forcemeat (No. 92), closing them up again carefully; return to a clean sautoir one beside the other and pour over a little gravy (No. 404); cook once more for twenty minutes on a slow fire, drain and shape them prettily. Dress on a dish in a circle, and cover over with a little half-glaze sauce (No. 41 B). (2754). LETTUCES WITH THICKENED GRAVY-BRAISED (Laitues Braises au Jus Li. Trim some lettuce heads by removing the green leaves from the stalks; pare these stalks to a point, wash the lettuces in several waters, changing it each time, and then blanch for ten minutes in a copper basin with boiling salted water; drain on a sieve, press each one separately to ex- tract all the liquid, and fold them lengthwise in two, wrapping each one in a thin slice of fat pork tied on with a thin string. Range them in a sautoir, braise in a mirepoix stock (No. 419) and broth (No. 194a) half of each, and cover with buttered paper; let cook for one hour and a quarter on a slow fire or in the oven, being careful to baste occasionally during the operation. Drain the lettuces, dress them in a circle; strain the stock, remove its fat and reduce it well with a little espagnole sauce (No. 414); pour a third part of this over the lettuces and serve the remainder separately. (2755). MACEDOINE A LA MONTIGNY (MacMolne a la Montigny). Cut carrots into small quarter-inch cylindrical, turnips into five-sixteenths inch in diameter balls, string beans into lozenges; also have small flageolet beans and peas. Blanch and cook each vegetable separately, drain, fry together colorless in butter, and mingle in a good soubise sauce (No. 543), thickening when ready to use with a little fresh butter and seasoning. Bread-crumb and egg over some small teaspoon chicken quenelles (No. 155), fry them in clarified butter, drain and range them around the dressed macedoine. 830 THE EPICUREAN. FIG. 549. (2756). MUSHKOOMS A LA EAYNAL MOUSSEEONS (Champignons Mousserons a la Eaynal). Prepare a foundation paste (No. 135) croustade, having it broad and rather high; place it on a baking sheet and fill it with a preparation made with a pound and a half of mushrooms cooked for five minutes in a little butter and broth (No. 194a); season with salt, then drain; when they are done cut them up finely and add the pieces to a chicken puree (No. 713), having it the consistency of a thick sauce, mixing in some raw egg-yolks. Push the filled croustade into the oven and let cook without browning. Have prepared a dozen mushroom heads, each one an inch and a half in diam- eter, suppress the stalks, scoop out the inside and chop up the fragments and stalks very fine; fry them in butter until quite dry, add lemon juice and let cool; mix this with the same quantity of chicken forcemeat (No. 86) and chopped parsley, season well and use this to fill the mushroom heads, forming them slightly rounded on top; lay them on a baking pan, scatter bread-crumbs over and pour on some butter; slip a little broth into the bottom and place in the oven for half an hour; dress these mushrooms on top of the croustade and serve. (2757). MUSHEOOMS A LA DUMAS OEONGES (Champignons Oronges a la Dumas). Kemove the skin from some oronges; mince finely and fry in oil; when the moisture has all evaporated, season and drain in a colander. Put some fresh oil in the pan, add to it parsley and a clove of garlic and afterward the drained oronges with the addition of a little salt and cayenne pepper; dress on a baking dish, dredge over bread-crumbs to cover and push into the oven. Turn eighteen whole mushroom oronges, having them an inch and three-quarters in diameter; chop up the stalks with the removed parts from the inside. Have a sautoir on the fire, set into it a quar- ter of a pound of butter with as much oil; in this fry colorless four finely chopped and blanched shallots, a clove of garlic, the chopped' oronges and a heaping tablespoonful of chopped parsley; when there is no more moisture, add half a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414). Remove the garlic, stuff the whole oronges with this preparation, bestrew with bread-crumbs, pour butter over and place them in a baking pan ; moisten with mushroom liquor and cook in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and garnish the baked preparation around with these. (2758). MUSHEOOMS A LA EIVEEA MOEILS (Champignons Morilles a la Eivera). Select large-sized morils; cut off the stalks, wash well and throw them into a saucepanful of tepid water; leave to soak for half an hour, then take them up, one by one, and rub them several times through the hands, being careful not to break them and changing the water each time so as to remove all the adhering sand, then drain. Cut some lean ham into one-eighth inch dice pieces, fry in butter, add the morils and toss both together, then moisten with half a pint of good sherry and a little Malaga; season and cook slowly for half an hour. Fry some sweet Spanish peppers in oil; when done and well drained, add a little meat glaze (No. 402) and lemon juice. Dress the morils In the center of a dish and surround with the sweet peppers; bestrew with chopped parsley. (2759). MDSHEOOM OEUSTS AND WITH TEUITLES-MOUSSEEONS (Croutes aux Champignons Mousserons et Croutes aux Champignons Mousserons aux TrufFes). These are prepared in various ways. Flat crusts are made three inches in diameter and a quar- ter ot an inch thick, to be covered over with butter and placed in the oven to attain a fine color. Or VEGETABLES. 831 cut off the tops of some rolls or flutes, empty out all the crumbs, coat the inside with fresh butter and put them into the oven to color nicely. Turn and channel (No. 118) one pound of sound mush- room heads; wash them in clear water, then place in a saucepan with a small piece of butter, salt, lemon juice and a little water, boil for a few moments, keeping the vessel closed. Eeduce some veloute" sauce (No. 415) with this mushroom liquid, add to it the mushrooms, remove at the first boil and thicken with four egg-yolks, a little cream and fresh butter; fill or cover the crusts with this and serve at once. For Mushroom and Truffle Crusts. Prepare the same way, only adding minced truffles to the mushrooms; they may be colored in the oven by besprinkling the tops with bread-crumbs and cheese, pouring butter over, then set in the oven for a few moments. (2760). MUSHROOMS SAUTED WITH THICKENED BUTTER AND BEOILED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST MOUSSERONS (Champignons Mousserons Sautes au Beurre Lie et Champignons Grilles). Turn one pound of mushroom heads (No. 118); peel the stalks and cut them up into medium- sized pieces. Put some clarified butter in a sautoir. add all the mushrooms, set it on the fire and let cook with salt, lemon juice and white wine. Just when ready to serve add a little bechamel sauce (No. 409) ; thicken with two egg-yolks and dilute with a gill of cream. Broiled Mushrooms on Toast. Choose large, fully opened mushrooms, remove the stems and peel the heads, season with salt and pepper, besmear with oil or melted butter and place them in a hinged gridiron (Fig. 172). Broil on a slow fire and when cooked on one side, turn over. About ten minutes should be sufficient to cook them. Dress on toast, having the rounded sides uppermost, spread over the top partly melted maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581) and serve hot. (2761). MUSHROOMS SERVED UNDER A GLASS COVER AND WITH CREAM (Champignons Servis Sous Cloche en Verre et k la OremeX Have some round slices of bread three inches in diameter and three-eighths of an inch thick. Cut off the stalks from some very fresh mushroom heads, channel (No. 118) and saute; range these on t.he slices of bread (the heads downward); season with salt and pepper and lay a single slice on a dish so that each individual guest can be supplied with a separate one. Cover with a bell made either of glass or silver and push them into the flven for twenty minutes. After removing lift off the bells and cover the mushrooms with a white wine veloute" sauce (No. 415) or a white wine espagnole sauce (No. 492). Under a Glass Cover with Cream. Fry some turned mushroom heads in butter; moisten with fresh cream, season with salt and pepper; cover and simmer until the cream becomes partially reduced. Have slices of bread prepared the same as for the above, put a slice on each plate, and on these dress the mushrooms in a pyramid form, pouring a part of their liquid over each; put on the bells and lay them to bake in a slack oven for twenty minutes, then serve with the bells still on. (2762), MUSHROOMS STUPPED IN CASES WITH MADEIRA-MOUSSERONS (Champignons Mousserons Farcis en Caisses au Madere). Procure twelve mushrooms, each an inch and three-quarters in diameter; remove both peel and stalks; wash and with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) scoop out the centers until the firm mushroom meat is reached, then wash the whole, and chop up the stalks. Have some hot butter and in it fry a little shallot, parsley and truffles, all well chopped; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and dilute with half a pint of well reduced allemande sauce (No. 407); fill the insides of the mushroom heads with this dressing. Prepare paper cases the same size as the mushroom heads, coat them with oil, and stiffen in the oven; into each case place a little Madeira wine, and one mushroom with the stuffed side uppermost; bestrew with bread-crumbs, pour over a little butter, and bake in the oven; when done to a fine color baste with Colbert sauce (No. 451), and serve. 832 TTIE EPICUREAN. (2763). OKEA OE GUMBO, GAENISHED WITH BAELET BECHAMEL OEOUSTADES (Gombo Garni de Croustades d'Orge, Bechamel). Procure young and tender okras; cut off both ends, keeping the gumbo two inches long-, blanch them in a copper pan with boiling salted water, drain and lay them in a sautoir one beside the other; moisten to their height with mirepoix stock (No. 419), let simmer until cooked and the stock reduced to a glaze; dress, cover over with well-buttered bechamel sauce (No. 409), garnishing around with barley bechamel croustades, made according to the following directions. Barley Bechamel Croustades. Boil some pearl barley in salted water for three hours, drain, put into a sautoir, and dilute with a well-buttered and highly seasoned sauce. Fill some hollow croustade tartlets with this, forming a cover with a round piece of savarin (No. 148) an inch and a quarter in diameter and three-eighths of an inch thick, having it buttered and glazed in the oven. (2764). ONIONS BOILED, HOLLANDAISE OE SOUBISE SAUCE (Oignons Bouillis, Sauce Holland- aise ou Soubise). Peel medium-sized onions, each one weighing two ounces; boil them in salted water, and when done, drain, wipe carefully, and dress them in clusters or in a row, covering over with Hollandaise sauce (No. 477) or a well-buttered soubise sauce (No. 543). (2765). ONIONS BEAISED (Oignons Braise's). Peel eighteen onions, weighing an ounce and a half each, being careful not to break them; cut off the stalks and roots and make a crosswise incision on the root end; saute them in butter or fat with salt and a pinch of sugar, browning slightly; then range them in a sautoir with bards of fat pork; moisten with a little veal blond stock (No. 423), just sufficient to cover, and cook slowly while reducing the liquid. Dress in a vegetable dish and pour the stock over, or else cover with matelote sauce (No. 498), having reduced it with the stock. (2766). ONIONS, WHITE OE BEEMUDA STUPPED (Oignons Blancs Ordinaires ou d'Espagne Farcis). Take either common white onions or Bermudas of medium size, each weighing about three ounces; plunge those selected into boiling water for two minutes, then drain and peel off the outer skin; empty the insides with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91), blanch for a few moments, drain and stuff them with chicken forcemeat (No. 79), incorporating as much cooked fine herbs (No. 385); be- strew the tops with bread-crumbs, pour butter over and lay them in a sautoir lined with fat pork; moisten to a third of their height with broth (No. 194a), then cook until they attain a color in a moderate oven; dress on a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and serve. (2767). PAESNIP CAKES PEIED IN BUTTEE (Galettes de Panais Frites au Beurre). Cut three pounds of young parsnips in six or eight pieces, according to their size, after they have been peeled and washed; boil them in water with salt and butter; when cooked drain off well, then pound and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Press this pulp forcibly through a sieve, incorporate a little butter, then leave to cool. Divide the preparation into two-inch diameter balls, roll these in flour, flatten to half an inch in thickness and fry in clarified butter; drain and dress on napkins with fried parsley on top. (2768). GEEEN PEPPEES STUFFED (Piments Verts Farcis). Plunge the peppers into hot fat, leaving them in sufficiently long to be able to detach the outer skin by rubbing with a cloth; cut off the stalk ends and empty out the seeds, etc. Prepare a force- meat with finely chopped onions and fry it in oil with as much cut-up peppers; let get cold, then mix in a quarter of a pound of cooked sausage meat (No. 68), a quarter of a pound of chopped fresh mushrooms and a little thick tomato puree (No. 730). Put the whole into a saucepan on the fire, boil, thicken with bread-crumbs and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; when partially cold stir in four egg-yolks. Fill the peppers with this, lay them on a baking pan covered with thin slices of fat pork, pour butter over and set in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes; dress in a circle, pouring a little light half-glaze sauce (No. 413) in the center. (2769). SWEET PEPPEES SAUTED (Piments Doux Saute*). Plunge the sweet peppers in hot fat, or broil them, to be able to remove the light skin; divide each one in two, cut away the hard parts and saute slowly in oil, cooking them at the same time; season with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168), finely chopped shallot and parsley; dress in a veg- etable dish and serve. Instead of fresh sweet peppers canned ones can be substituted, these being imported from Spain. VEGETABLES. 833 (2770). POTATOES, ANNA (Pommes de Terre Anna). Select long-shaped potatoes; they must be peeled and cut into the form of a large cork; mince them finely, and soak in water for a few moments; drain and wipe on a cloth. Butter and bread the inside of a thick copper pan, having a well-fitted cover; range on the bottom and sides a thin layer of the potatoes, one overlapping the other, then fill entirely with the remaining ones in separate layers, covering each with butter free from moisture, softened by working in a napkin; mask the upper layer with the same, and close with the lid. Cook the potatoes for three-quarters of an hour in the oven; a quarter of an hour before serving take from the fire, drain off the butter and cut FIG. 551. a cross through the potatoes yet in the sautoir, and turn each quarter over with the aid of a palette; put back the drained-off butter and return to the oven until ready, and invert on a dish to serve. These potatoes may be made in a smaller pan; in this case they should not be cut but turned over whole before putting in the oven the second time. (2771). POTATOES BAKED (Pommes de Terre an Gratin). Wash and brush medium-sized potatoes, wipe dry and lay them on a dish, then push into a hot oven for thirty to forty minutes; when done serve on a napkin, or else they may be steamed or boiled, then baked and peeled; cover with butter, color in the oven, and serve in a vegetable dish. (2772). POTATOES BIAEEITZ-BAKED (Pommes de Terre an Gratin a la Biarritz). Put a pound of peeled potatoes to boil in salted water; drain as soon as done, and dry in the oven; rub through a sieve, then put this puree into a saucepan to dilute with a little clear gravy (No. 404), and add meat glaze (No. 402), two shallots prevoiusly fried in butter, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of raw ham cut in three-sixteenths inch squares and four egg-yolks. Put aside the eighth part of this preparation, and dress the remainder dome-form on a baking dish; to the eighth reserved part add four egg-yolks and a little cream; beat well, and then stir in two well-whipped egg-whites; cover the dome with this, bestrew it with bread-crumbs, pour melted butter over, and set it in the oven for twenty minutes to heat and bake to a fine color. (2773). POTATOES, BIGNON (Pommes de Terre Bignon). Turn some raw potatoes into rounds two and one-eighth inches in diameter; make an opening in them of one and one-eighth inch, leaving a thickness of a quarter of an inch; blanch these hollow balls for a few moments in salted water, then turn them over to drain well. Prepare a forcemeat with a shallot fried colorless in butter, adding some sausage meat (No. 68), and let cook together; put in salt, pepper, bread-crumbs, chopped parsley, and a few egg-yolks, and with this preparation fill the holes in the potatoes; strew bread-crumbs over, then parmesan cheese, sprinkle over melted butter, and range them as fast as they are ready in a sautoir lined with bards of fat pork; pour more butter over, and put on the lid, then set it in an oven to finish cooking the potatoes; when done remove the cover and brown them nicely; range neatly in a vegetable dish on a little half-glaze (No. 400). (2774). POTATOES BOILED IN TBSIE SKINS OE PEELED. ENGLISH STYLE, PEESILLADE BALLS (Pommes de Terre Bouillies en Eobe on Pelves, a 1'Anglaise, en Boules Persillade). Boiled in Their Skins or Peeled. Wash some uniform -si zed potatoes; cook them either by steam or in salted water from twenty-five to thirty minutes, and when nearly done (if in salted water) drain and cover with a damp cloth; put them into the oven until all their moisture has evaporated, and serve in folded napkins, with or without skins, or in a covered vegetable dish, so they keep hot. Boiled English Style. Peel some raw potatoes; pare them in the shape of large olives, and put them in a saucepan with salt and water; cover and let the liquid boil until the potatoes are done, then drain off the water and cover over with a cloth. Close the saucepan and set it in the oven for a few moments to dry them well; pour a little melted salt butter over and dress in a vegetable dish. Persillade Balls are potatoes formed into balls three-quarters of an inch to one inch in diameter with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91), and cooked the same as the English. Serve them in a vegetable dish, pour salted butter and chopped parsley over. 834 THE EPICUREAN. (2775). POTATOES, BOKDELAISE NEW (Pommes de Terre Nouvelles a la Bordelaise). Select small, uniform-sized new potatoes; rub the peelings off with a cloth and saute them in lard, keeping the pan covered until done and of a fine color, then drain and saute in butter with a little chopped shallot, a trifle of garlic, salt and fine herbs. In case there be no new potatoes, pare old ones into olive forms, wash and boil partly in salted water, then drain and finish cooking in butter the same as the new ones. (2776). POTATOES BEOILED WITH FEIED BREAD-RASPINGS (Pommes de Terre Grillees a la Ohapelure Frite). To prepare broiled potatoes boiled ones are generally used, cut in half-inch thick slices; lay them on a double-hinged broiler, salt and baste with melted butter, then place the broiler over a slow fire, and cook the potatoes to a good color; dress them in the center of a dish. Fry fresh bread-crumbs in butter, and when a fine golden brown pour over the potatoes, and serve. (2777). POTATOES, BUSSY (Pommes de Terre Bussy). After having the potatoes prepared the same as for the dauphine potatoes (No. 2783), and before dividing it into balls, mix in some chopped parsley. Take up some with a teaspoon, detach it with the finger, and let fall into hot frying fat; when of a good color drain dry, and dress on a folded napkin. (2778). POTATO GAZES (Gateaux de Pommes de Terre). Bake eight potatoes in the oven, and when done cut them lengthwise in two, empty out entirely, and place this in a saucepan with two finely chopped shallots fried in butter, and a pound of lean meat, either of veal or lamb or dark poultry meat, chives, salt, pepper, nutmeg, two ounces of butter, six egg-yolks, and two gills of veloute sauce (No. 415). With this preparation make inch and a half diameter balls flattening them down to five-eighths of an inch in thickness; roll in beaten egg-white, then in flour, and fry in a pan with clarified butter. Dress on a folded napkin in a circle with fried parsley in the center. (2779). POTATO OAKES WITH HAM (Galettes de Pommes de Terre an Jambon). Lay in a saucepan one pint of mashed potatoes (No. 2798), rubbed through a sieve; mix in with it a lump of butter, a pinch of sugar, nutmeg, a handful of grated parmesan, six raw egg-yolks, two beaten whites, a little salt and four ounces of cooked and finely chopped lean ham. Heat a griddle or frying-pan, butter well the surface, take the preparation up with a spoon, and let it fall on it in rounds three inches each, keeping them slightly apart; cook them on a slow fire, turning over; when nicely colored and hardened drain and serve hot. The preparation may be let fall into three-inch diameter rings, five- sixteenths of an inch thick, filling them to the top; in this way the cakes will be more uniform than when cooked as above. (2780). POTATOES CHOPPED WITH CREAM, AND BAKED (Pommes de Terre Hach^es a la Creme et au Gratin). Peel some boiled potatoes after they are cold; chop them up and lay in a sautoir with butter, salt, nutmeg, white pepper and cream ; boil and simmer until the preparation has acquired a suffi- cient consistency, then serve in a vegetable dish. Baked. Butter the bottom of a dish, bestrew it with bread-raspings, and fill slightly bomb- shaped with chopped potatoes and cream as the above; dredge more bread-raspings over, pour on some butter, wipe the edges of the dish, and bake in a hot oven. (2781). POTATOES, CREAM OF, BAKED (Oreme de Pommes de Terre au Gratin). Cut up some boiled potatoes the same as for duchess (No. 2785). Alter they have steamed take from the fire and stir in a piece ot butte**; work rapidly with a large fork to make a puree, but do not rub it through a sieve; season with salt, nutmeg, a pinch of sugar, and for three or four gills of the pure"e add four or five raw egg-yolks and a handful of parmesan cheese, diluting very slowly with a gill and a half of rich, raw cream, so as to have the preparation as smooth as for a pudding; when this degree is acquired stir well on the side of the range for two VEGETABLES. 835 minutes to heat slightly, then remove and incorporate two or three ounces of fresh butter divided in small pats. Pour the preparation at once into a small vegetable dish, lay it on a baking tin and brown the surface lightly in the oven. Eight or ten minutes will be sufficient. Serve in the same dish. (2782). POTATO OKOQUETTES, IN STJEPKISE AND MAISIENNE (Croquettes de Pommes de Terre en Surprise et a la Mai'sienne). Obtain one pound of very hot mashed potato preparation (No. 2798), and rub it through a sieve; put it into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, work it well with salt, nutmeg and four egg-yolks; let get cold, then form it into cylindrical croquettes an inch in diameter by two and a quarter inches in length; roll them in bread crumbs, then in beaten egg and again in bread-crumbs; smooth this breading with a knife, and fry a few at a time in hot frying fat; drain and dress on a napkin. In Surprise. Use the same preparation as for the above; form into round croquettes instead of cylindricals, and in the center of each one insert a half-inch diameter ball of consistent chestnut puree (No. 712); bread-crumb and fry them the same as the potato croquettes. Malsienne Croquettes. Have a pound of the mashed potato preparation (No. 2798), put it into a saucepan with an ounce of butter, two egg-yolks, half a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 409), and the same quantity of green corn, the grains scraped free of skin; mix well and leave till cold; with this form two and a half inch cylindrical croquettes, having them an inch and a quarter thick; roll in eggs and bread-crumbs, fry in plenty of hot frying fat, drain and serve on folded napkins. (2783). POTATOES, DAUPHINE (Pommes de Terre Dauphine). Bake two pounds of potatoes, cut them lengthways in two, remove sufficient pulp to obtain a pound, and mix this with a quarter as much pate-a-chou (No. 132), eggs, a little cream, salt and nutmeg. Divide it to make inch and a half balls, lengthen them to the shape of an egg, roll in butter, then in bread-raspings, and fry in hot frying fat. (2784). POTATOES, HALF-GLAZE (Pommes de Terre Demi-Glace). Prepare potatoes the same as for gastronome (No. 2789), lay them in a sautoir with clarified butter, without having them previously boiled; when nearly done change into another saucepan and moisten with a little gravy (No. 404), espagnole sauce (No. 414) and meat-glaze (No. 402); cover the pan and cook so that the liquid be reduced to the consistency of a half-glaze as soon as the potatoes are finished. (2785). POTATOES, DUCHESS (Pommes de Terre Duchesse), The same preparation as the marchioness (No. 2797), adding a handful of grated parmesan; roll in one and three-quarter inch diameter balls, lengthen these and roll them in bread-crumbs to have them assume an oblong form two and five-eighths inches by one and three-quarter inches; flatten to the thickness of half an inch, cut off the four corners, dip them in melted butter, then in bread- crumbs and lay them on a liberally buttered baking sheet, pouring more butter over; push into a very hot oven and when of a fine color remove from the oven and serve. (2786). POTATOES, PARISIENNE (Pommes de Terre Parisienne). Cut them with a three-quarters of an inch diameter vegetable spoon (Fig. 91); fry slowly in plenty of hot fat and when three-quarters done drain this off and lay them in a sautoir with clari- fied butter, toss, season with salt, sprinkle over with chopped parsley and serve. (2787). POTATOES PRIED AND CHANNELED (Pommes de Terre Cannelees Frites). Put some frying fat (No. 55) in a pan provided with a wire basket (Fig. 121). Peel raw potatoes, cut them in slices with a channeled knife (Fig. 157), having each one about an inch and a half in diameter and three-sixteenths of an inch thick; throw them into cold water immediately, soak for one hour, then drain; put them into a wire basket, and plunge into the warm frying fat; then cook, keeping them at the same degree of heat, stirring about several times; when done and nicely colored, drain, wipe, salt and dress in a pyramid. 836 THE EPICUREAN. (2788). POTATO PRITTERS (Beignets de Pommes de Terre). Imitate small eggs with potato croquette preparation (No. 2782) ; leave them till quite cold on ice, then cut each one lengthwise in two, thus obtaining two halves for every egg, then cut these again in two on their length; dip these separate quarters in a light frying batter (No. 137), then in hot frying fat and fry to a fine golden color. Dress on a folded napkin. (2789). POTATOES, GASTRONOME (Pommes de Terre Gastronome). From some raw potatoes trim cylindrical one inch in diameter by an inch and a quarter long; blanch them for ten minutes, then drain off and finish cooking in clarified butter; when done pour this butter off and add salt, lemon juice, a small quantity of meat glaze (No. 402), chopped truffles and a little Madeira wine. Range and serve in a vegetable dish. (2790). POTATOES HOLLANDAISE WITH MELTED BUTTER OR HOLLANDAISE SAUCE (Pommes de Terre a la Hollandaise ail Beurre Fondu ou a la Sauce Hollandaise), Cut potatoes into inch balls with a round vegetable spoon (Fig. 91); cook them in salted water, and a few moments before they are finished drain off the water and cover with a damp cloth, then lay them in the oven for a few minutes; return to a saucepan and pour over slightly melted salty butter or else use a well-buttered Hollandaise sauce (No. 477). (2791). POTATOES, HOUSEKEEPER'S STYLE (Pommes de Terre Menagere). Cut a quarter of a pound of lean, unsmoked bacon into three-eighths of an inch squares; blanch and fry in butter two ounces of chopped onion; moisten with broth (No. 194a), having jusfe suffi- cient to moisten, and let the bacon cook so that when done the liquid will all be reduced; add about a pound of mashed potatoes, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and chopped parsley. (2792). POTATOES, JULIENNE OR STRAW (Pommes de Terre Julienne ou Pommes de Terre Faille). Peel the potatoes and cut them in eighth of an inch slices and these into fillets. For straws the fillets are much thinner than for Julienne; fry the same as the channeled (No. 2787). (2793). POTATOES, LONG BRANCH (Pommes de Terre Long Branch). Cut up some peeled potatoes with the machine (Fig. 552); these pieces can be obtained several yards long. Soak them in cold water for some hours, and fry the same as channeled potatoes (No. 2787) in white fat. (2794). POTATOES, LYONNESE (Pommes de Terre Lyonnaise). Pare some cooked potatoes into cylinders one inch in diameter, cut them FIG. 552. three-sixteenths of an inch thick and saute in butter; mince finely one medium- sized onion; fry it in butter, and when nicely colored mix in the sauted potatoes and season with salt and pepper; toss them again for a few moments, drain off the butter and dress. (2795). POTATOES, MAITRE D'HOTEL (Pommes de Terre Maitre d'Eotel), Boil the potatoes the same as for plain boiled No. 2774; leave them to cool partly, then pai'e into cylindricals an inch in diameter, and these into three-sixteenths of an inch slices; place them in a saucepan having its bottom well buttered, season with salt and nutmeg, and moisten to three- quarters of their height with broth (No. 194a). Boil slowly until the liquid be reduced, then remove from the fire and stir in a few bits of butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice. They can also be prepared by using raw potatoes pared to the same size and thickness as those for the above; set them in a buttered saucepan, moisten with veal blond (No. 423), season and cook on a brisk fire in such a way as to have the liquid almost dry by the time the potatoes are done; just when serving add a few small lumps of butter, lemon juice and chopped parsley. (2796). POTATOES, MARSHAL (Pommes de Terre Marshal). Mince some raw potatoes; wash and wipe well on a cloth; put them in a flat saucepan with butter; season and cook very slowly while covered, tossing them frequently; when soft beat them up and dress in layers in a vegetable dish; bestrew each of these with grated parmesan, pour melted butter over and bake for half an hour in a slack oven. VEGETABLES. 83? (2797). POTATOES, MARCHIONESS (Pommes de Terre Marquise). Peel and cut up some raw potatoes; boil them in salted water, drain it off as soon as they are done and cover over with a clean cloth; let steam for a few moments in a slack oven, then remove and rub a few at a time through a sieve; put this puree into a saucepan, and for each pound stir in quickly one ounce of butter, live raw egg-yolks, salt, nutmeg, a pinch of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of good raw cream. Pour the preparation on a floured table, roll it into thick cork- shaped pieces and cut these across in ovals two inches wide, three inches long and half an inch thick; range them in a copper baking pan with hot clarified butter and brown on both sides in the oven, turning them over while cooking. (2798). POTATOES, MASHED, IN SNOW, IN PUREE OR BAKED (Pommes de Terre en Neige, en Puree ou au Gratin). Boil mealy potatoes, the same as described in No. 2774; pass them through a small hand strainer (Fig. 558), or a large pressure strainer if for larger quantities (Fig. 554). For Snow Potatoes use the puree as it leaves the strainer (Fig. 553), put it in a napkin and form it into a ball inside of this; remove the napkin slowly to have the ball remain whole and serve in a covered vegetable dish. In Puree. After removing the potatoes from the strainer, put the puree in a saucepan, adding one ounce of butter for each pound, and a gill of milk; serve. Baked Mashed Potatoes. Lay the potatoes in a baking dish, smooth the top nicely, bestrew with bread-crumbs and parmesan, pour butter over and bake in the oven, or substitute potato croquette preparation (No. 2782); dress in the center of a baking dish in pyramid form and mark with a knife in large stripes from top to bottom; brush over with beaten eggs, baste with melted b\itter and brown in a not too hot oven. FIG. 553. FIG. 554. (2799). POTATOES, MELLOW (Pommes de Terre Pondantes). Prepare a few dozen small potatoes, giving them the shape of a pigeon's egg, all of uniform size; lay them in a sautoir with melted veal kidney fat, or good lard, and cook slowly while turning so that they color on all their surfaces; when done, press down slightly with a palette so as to flatten without breaking; they should now be oval-shaped. Pour off the fat from the pan and cover with butter; put in the potatoes, one beside the other, and keep them in the oven from ten to twelve minutes, to have them absorb the largest part of the butter while turning and basting; salt over and dress in a vegetable dish. Another way is to prepare by first boiling olive-shaped potatoes, then crushing them one after the other in a cloth; place on a buttered baking sheet, pour slightly melted fresh butter over and color in a hot oven, basting at frequent intervals with the butter while cooking; dress in a vegetable dish. (2800), POTATOES, PONT-NEUF (Pommes de Terre Pont-Neuft These are potatoes cut in square lardon shapes, three-eighths of an inch by two inches in length, to be fried and dressed the same as the channeled potatoes (No. 2787). (2801). POTATOES, PROVENC. AL (Pommes de Terre a la Prove^ale). Trim raw potatoes to the shape of corks, then cut them across three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; wipe perfectly dry and saute slowly in oil so they have plenty of time to cook, then add 838 THE EPICUREAN. a little garlic and a little onion all finely chopped; salt them and finish in the oven just when serving; drain off the butter and strew over with chopped parsley and lemon juice. (2802). POTATOES, SARAH (Pommes de Terre Sarah), Cut some raw potatoes into corkscrew shapes with a special machine (Fig 555); fry till half done in not too hot fat; drain and place them in a santoir with clarified butter to finish cooking, seasoning with salt, and adding chopped parsley and lemon juice. (2803). POTATOES, SARATOGA (Pommes de Terre Sar- atoga). Mince the potatoes very finely in the machine (Fig. 556), or cut thinly with a knife; lay them in cold water for twelve hours, changing it several times, then drain and fry in very hot white lard; when finished they should be ex- ceedingly white and dry. FIG. 556. FIG. 555. (2804). POTATOES SAUTED (Pommes de Terre Santees), Boil some long unpeeled potatoes in salted water; remove their skins and when partly cold pare into the shape of corks, then in three-sixteenths inch slices and put them in a pan with melted butter; season and saute over a moderate fire to have them slightly browned; bestrew with chopped pars- ley and serve at once. (2805). POTATOES SAUTED WITH ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS AND TRUFFLES (Pommes de Terre Saute'es aux Fonds d'Artichauts et aux TrufFes). Trim long potatoes, shaping them into cylinders one inch in diameter; cut them into three- sixteenths of an inch thick slices, drain and dry on a cloth; also trim small artichoke bottoms, cut them in four pieces, and pare. Heat a liberal quantity of good oil in a sautoir; put in the potatoes and artichoke bottoms, and cook while tossing to have them attain a color; drain when done, and add salt and butter; shake off of the fire until the butter dissolves, then add minced truffles cooked in Madeira wine, tossing continually in the meanwhile: serve up in a vegetable dish. (2806). POTATOES IN THE SHAPE OF AN OMELET (Pommes de Terre en Forme d'Omelette). Boil a few raw, peeled potatoes in salt and water; when cooked drain off the water, and let steam for five or six minutes; invert them on a clean cloth to dry all the moisture, and return them to a pan containing melted butter; fry for two minutes, then break by chopping them up with an iron palette until well crumbled, adding a little melted butter from time to time; season; brown nicely while tossing incessantly; lastly bring the potatoes to the front of the pan to have them all together, and shape the mass like a folded omelet; color it nicely, adding a little more butter, and invert it on a small long dish. Another Way is to peel boiled cold potatoes; chop them up or else cut them in small three-sixteenths of an inch cubes; saute them in a pan with clarified butter, season with salt and chopped parsley and let color nicely, tossing them unceasingly; bring the preparation forward to the front of the pan, assemble it together, and shape it like a folded omelet; color, adding a little more butter, and when finely browned drain off the fat and turn it over as an omelet on a long dish. (2807). POTATO SHAVINGS (Pommes de Terre en Oopeaux). These are to be cut with a special machine (Fig. 557); they are shaped like thin spirals. Leave them soak in cold water for two hours, then drain well, and place inside a hinged double broiler to keep them apart; fry the same as the channeled potatoes (No. 2787). (2808). POTATOES SCUFFLED (Pommes de Terre Souffles). Good scuffled potatoes can best be made by using those called Holland potatoes. First trim the raw potatoes in ovals of equal size, two and a quarter inches long by one and a quarter wide, and then proceed to slice them lengthwise three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness. As quickly FIG. 557. VEGETABLES. 839 as they are cut throw them into a bowl of cold water, leaving them in for twenty-five minutes. Heat two panfuls of fat, one of fresh beef kidney suet, the other having previously been used for other purposes and therefore its strength being somewhat extracted, it should be clean and white. Wipe the sliced potatoes on a cloth, dry them thoroughly, put them in a basket and plunge them into the oldest fat, leaving them cook until they become soft, but do not let them take color. Ke- move and place them on a large sieve to drain and cool for a few moments, and just before serving plunge the potatoes into the fresh, hot fat, toss them, remove those that do not souffle, also those that souffle badly; set them to cool, and return them again to the hot fat. Should they not souffle at the second immersion, it is useless to try again. Salt the potatoes before serving, dress around the meat, or on a napkin in a separate dish. (2809). POTATOES IN SUEPKISE (Pommes de Terre en Surprise). Wash and brush medium-sized potatoes, wrap them in separate sheets of damp paper; range on a baking tin, and cook in a slack oven for thirty to forty minutes; remove, unwrap and make an opening on one side of each potato; empty the contents with a small spoon (Fig. 91), pound this to a pulp with fresh butter, salt, nutmeg and egg-yolks; refill the potatoes, close the aperture with the piece removed, and lay them on a buttered baking tin, having the opening uppermost. Push into a slack oven for twenty minutes, then dress on or inside of a folded napkin. (2810). POTATO TAETLETS (Tartelettes de Pommes de Terre). Prepare mashed potatoes the same as for duchess (No. 2785) ; make it rather firm with egg- yolks, butter and parmesan; with it fill some large buttered molds lined with puff paste parings (No. 146), rolled out thin; press down well, and smooth the tops. Place on a baking sheet and push in a hot oven; unmold when nicely colored and dress as a garnishing or on a folded napkin. (2811). POTATO TIMBALE A LA PARMENTIEB, (Timbale de Pommes de Terre a la Parmentier), Remove some rounds with a three-quarter inch diameter tin tube from slices of potatoes three- sixteenths of an inch thick; saute them in butter for two minutes, then drain. Line the bottom of a buttered timbale mold with part of these rounds, and the sides with separate rows laid on flat, intercalating them in such a way that a round of potato lays between two others of the next row. Prepare a puree with a pound of potatoes boiled in salted water, drained and covered with a damp cloth, then dried in the oven; rub through a sieve and stir in two ounces of butter, one whole egg, one yolk, salt and nutmeg. Fill the timbale with this, lay the cover over and push into a moderate oven to cook for half an hour or more; when removed let stand for ten minutes, and invert on a hot dish. (2812). POTATOES, VIENNESE (Pommes de Terre Viennoise). To be made with the same preparation as Marchioness (No. 2797); divide it into balls, roll these on a table, covered with rice flour, to look like a Vienna loaf, thick in the center and pointed at the ends. Imitate the gashes in the center of its length, egg over twice and cook in a hot oven. Serve on a folded napkin. (2813). POTATOES WITH MINCED TEUFFLES (Pommes de Terre aux Truffes Emincees). Peel raw potatoes and cut them into one-inch diameter corks, then across in three-sixteenths of an inch slices; wash, wipe well and lay them in a thin sautoir with melted butter, seasoning with salt; cover and cook in a slack oven, being careful to shake them about frequently until they are slightly browned, then add a quarter as much minced truffles cut one inch in diameter and an eighth of an inch thick; drain off the butter and baste with a small quantity of good Madeira wine, meat glaze (No. 402), and lemon juice. Pour into a vegetable dish and serve. (2814). PUMPKIN FRIED IN SMALL STICKS (Potiron en Batonnets Frits). Peel and remove the inside part of a pumpkin or marrow squash so that only the meat remains; cut two pounds of this into small sticks an inch and a half long, and three-eighths of an inch across; lay them in a vessel, strew salt over and let macerate for fifteen minutes, then drain, wipe and dip quickly in flour; plunge a few at a time into very hot fat; when cooked, drain, salt and dress on a napkin. 840 THE EPICUREAN. (2815). PUESLAIN, GEEEN OE GOLDEN A LA BAEBANQON (Pourpier Vert ou Dore a la Barbangon), Clean three pounds of the golden purslain; blanch in salted boiling water, drain and finish cooking in some good blond veal stock (No. 423), thickening with a little kneaded butter (No.579), and adding four ounces of lean cooked ham cut in squares. Dish it up and garnish around with small tartlets prepared in the following manner : Cook some of the purslain in salted water after it has been cleaned; drain and press out all the liquid, then fry it in butter, season and add bread-crumbs and raw egg-yolks. Line some round tartlet molds with thin puff paste (No. 146), fill them with the preparation, strew over grated parmesan and cook in a moderate oven; turn them out to range around the purslain, laying between each one a small marinated purslain stalk dipped in light frying batter (No. 137) and fried to a fine color. (2816). COS LETTUCE A LA EUDINI-STUFFED (Eomaine Parole a la Eudini). Remove the green stalk leaves from six cos lettuces; cut each one lengthwise in two, remove the centers or hard parts, and blanch in boiling salted water; drain properly, and lay them on a cloth; suppress all the hard part from the leaves and stuff each half with veal quenelle forcemeat (No. 92), into which mix the insides of four cooked and skinned sausages, also a coffeespoonf ul of finely cut-up chives. Roll the romaines into muff-shapes, wrap them around with fat pork, then braise and drain; strain and reduce the stock with espagnole sauce (No. 414), and pour this over after it has been well reduced. (2817). SALSIFY OE OTSTEE PLANT A LA POULETTE, SAUTED WITH FINE HERBS OE FEIED (Salsifis ou Scorsoneres a la Poulette, Saute"s aux Fines Herbes ou Frits). A la Poulette. Scrape some oyster plants to remove their covering of brown skin, cut off the tops and thin end parts, and throw them as quickly as they are done in cold water acidulated with vinegar; divide them into two and a half inch lengths, and cook in a white stock (No. 182), into which add chopped beef kidney suet and sliced lemon pulp; let cook slowly, and when they crush under the pressure of the finger, then drain. Saute them colorless in butter, season, drain off the fat, and put in a little veloute (No. 415); roll them in the sautoir and thicken with egg-yolks and butter, finishing with lemon juice and chopped parsley. Sauted With Fine Herbs. Are first to be cooked the same as the poulette, then cut across in slices a quarter of an inch thick, and sauteM in butter, seasoning with salt, pepper, chopped parsley and lemon juice. Fried. Prepare the same as for the poulette, drain and season with salt, pepper, lemon juice and chopped parsley; dip them into frying batter (No. 137), and fry slowly in plenty of hot white fat; drain, salt, and dress on a folded napkin with a bunch of fried parsley on top. (2818). SOEEEL WITH GEAVY (Oseille au Jus). Pick some clean, tender sorrel leaves; wash well, changing the water. Put them into a sauce- pan with a little salt and water; dissolve while stirring with a spoon; throw the sorrel into a col- ander and when cold press it through a sieve. Put this puree with a little prepared white roux (No. 163), and cook it for a few moments while stirring; moisten with a small quantity of gravy (No. 404); reduce the puree, mixing well all the time; season and finish with a little half-glaze (No. 400). (2819). SAUEEKEAUT GAENISHED (Choucroute Garnie). Butter the bottom of a saucepan; lay in two pounds of fresh sauerkraut washed in several waters; in the center arrange a quarter of a pound of bacon and a quarter of a pound of goose or chicken fat; moisten to its height with broth (No. 194a), and in the middle lay an eight-ounce cervelas saus- age, one onion or carrot cut in four and a garnished bunch of parsley (No. 123); cover over with buttered paper and cook for two hours or more; the moistening should be reduced when the sauer- kraut is done; drain off the fat, take out the bacon, sausage and vegetables, and add to the sauer- kraut one gill of white wine, a piece of kneaded butter (No. 579) and three ounces of plain butter divided in small pats. Suppress the bacon rind, cut it and the sausage into slices and dress them around the sauerkraut as a garnishing; thicken the sauce with some espagnole (No. 414), and serve separately. VEGETABLES. 841 (2820). SPINACH WITH BECHAMEL SAUCE AND WITH CREAM (Epinards a la Bechamel et a la Creme). Pick some fresh, tender spinach, using only the leaves; when well cleaned and washed in sev- eral waters plunge into boiling salted water and blanch for five or six minutes; drain, refresh and press out every particle of moisture. Chop finely and put into a saucepan with hot melted butter. Season, place the saucepan on a brisk fire for a few moments without ceasing to stir until the moistening is reduced, and finish with two spoonfuls of thick bechamel (No. 409), and another piece of butter. With Cream. After the spinach has been prepared as for the above, and thoroughly dried, add to it a little flour, moisten with cream and stir constantly. Just when ready to serve incorpo- rate a piece of fresh butter, then dress and garnish around with puff paste crescents or small bouche'es filled with bechamel (No. 411). (2821). SPINACH A LA NOAILLES (Epinards a la Noailles), Carefully pick the spinach, removing the largest stalks; wash it several times, changing the water, then blanch in anuntinned copper vessel with salted water, letting it boil incessantly. When the stalks are tender enough to crush under the pressure of the finger, drain the spinach in a coarse colander, refresh and drain again; press out all the water, pick over to remove any straws or other impurities and then chop it up; force this through a coarse sieve; place the pulp in a sauce- pan with a piece of butter, put the saucepan on the fire, stir continuously until the moisture is evaporated, then besprinkle with flour; moisten with some thick veal blond (No. 423), adding a little meat glaze (No. 402), salt and nutmeg. A moment before serving stir in a piece of fresh butter. The flour can be replaced by some veloute sauce (No. 415). (2822). SPINACH \ LA KOUGEMONT (Epinards a la Rougemont). Have the spinach picked and prepared the same as for a la Noailles (No. 2821). Brown a piece of butter to hazel-nut (No. 567), put in the spinach, place the pan on a hot fire, stir continually until the spinach is consistent and the moisture evaporated; season with salt and nutmeg; thicken with espagnole sauce (No. 414), a little chicken glaze (No. 398), and fresh butter; dress it in a dome-form and decorate around with small bouche'es of sweetbreads, mingled with very rich and thick financiere sauce (No. 464). (2823). SPINACH, ENGLISH STYLE (Epinards a 1'Anglaise). Pick and wash the spinach in several waters; blanch it in an untinned copper vessel with boil- ing, salted water; drain well and cut it up without chopping; now put it into a saucepan on the fire, season with salt and pour it into a vegetable dish, cover with small bits of fresh butter, set on the cover and serve very hot. (2824). SQUASH-MARROW-WITH PARMESAN (Citrouille au Parmesan). Peel the squash and cut it into quarter-inch thick slices; from these remove twenty-four round pieces with an inch and a quarter diameter cutter; blanch, drain, and saute them in butter over a brisk fire, seasoning with salt and nutmeg; dress them in a circle, one overlapping the other, on a dish that is fit to be placed in the oven. Cut as much of the squash into five- eighths of an inch squares, blanch by dropping them into boiling salted water, continuing the boiling process for fifteen minutes, then drain and fry them in butter, salt over, and lay them in the center of the circle; dredge grated parmesan cheese on top, pour on some butter, and color in a hot oven; strew chopped parsley over the surface, and when serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over the whole. (2825). STRING BEANS 1 L'ALBANI (Haricots Verts a rAlbani), String some medium-sized tender beans; cut them into lozenges, and boil in salted water placed in an untinned copper pan. Drain them off, saute in butter, and thicken with a little veloute (No. 415) and chicken glaze (No. 398), adding the juie of a lemon. Dress, bestrew with chopped parsley, and surround with triangular croutons (No. 51), on which lay quartered artichoke bottoms sauted in butter, and mingled with meat glaze (No. 402) and lemon juice. 842 TTIE EPICUREAN. (2826). STEING BEANS A LA BOUEGUIGNONNE (Haricots Verts a la Bourguignonne). Cut two ounces of onion into squares; blanch in boiling salted water, drain, and fry colorless in butter; add to it some lean unsmoked bacon cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares, an equal quantity of lean cooked ham cut the same and fried in butter, also two pounds of cleaned string beans; fry until the latter have evaporated their moisture, seasoning with salt; moisten with a pint of stock (No. 194a), and as much red wine, and when the beans are done and the liquid reduced add a little espagnole sauce (No. 414), butter, lemon juice, and a small pinch of finely sliced chives. (2827). STEING BEANS A LA PETTIT (Haricots Verts a la Pettit). Prepare and cook some string beans the same as with butter (No. 2829), but they should only be partly done; drain, wipe, and saute them in a sautoir with butter without allowing to attain color, then pour off the butter and substitute some good sweet cream; let simmer until this is almost reduced, seasoning with salt and nutmeg. Thicken when ready to serve with a thickening of egg-yolks, cream, and a small lump of fine fresh butter. (2828), STEING BEANS SMOTHEKED (Haricots Verts Etuves). Choose string beans not too small but tender and fresh; cut them up and put them into a but- tered sautoir, salting lightly; moisten to about their height with broth (No. 194a), cover the sauce pan, and cook the beans slowly, adding a little more broth as fast as it reduces. When the beans are done they should be dry, then baste them over with two or three spoonfuls of good thickened half-glaze sauce (No. 400); finish off the fire with some good fresh butter divided in small pats. Pour into a vegetable dish and serve. (2829). STRING BEANS WITH BUTTEE (Haricots Verts au Beurre). If the beans be young and tender leave them whole; if large and yet tender, cut them in two or three lengthwise fillets; string and plunge the beans into boiling water in a copper pan; salt and cook them over a brisk fire without covering; keep them slightly hard; drain and throw in cold water, then spread them quickly on a cloth to wipe away all the moisture; put them at once into a vessel with fresh butter divided into small pieces, and stir them about with two forks without breaking, or else toss until the butter is dissolved; season and serve immediately. (2830). SWEET POTATOES, BOILED AND WITH LOBSTEE OOEAL (Patates Bouillies et au Corail de Homard). This tubercle originally came from the island of St. Domingo, and may be prepared in various ways. Boiled. "Wash, cut off the ends, and lay them in a large-mesh basket; cook them by steam for twenty minutes or else in boiling water. They can be served either in their skins or peeled. With Lobster Coral. After the sweet potatoes are boiled, cut them into olive-shapes; lay them in a vegetable dish, pour melted butter over, and strew the top with finely chopped lobster coral. (2831). SWEET POTATOES SCUFFLED AND SWEET POTATO CEOQUETTES (Patates Soufflees et Croquettes de Patates). Souffled. Cut them up raw into quarter-inch slices, pare them oval-shaped two and three- quarters by one and a half inches, then fry slowly in white fat to have them cook without coloring or stiffening; drain and ten minutes later throw them back into hot fat; they should puff out considerably. Croquettes. After the potatoes are roasted cut them lengthwise in two and empty out the insides; to this add salt, nutmeg, egg-yolks and fresh butter; mix well together, and when the preparation is thoroughly cold roll it up into inch and three-quarter diameter balls, dip them in eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine golden brown; dress in a circle, having a bunch of fried parsley to decorate the center. (2832). SWEET POTATOES EOASTED AND BEOILED (Patates Eoties et Grilles). In the Oven. "Wash and cut off both ends, pare them olive-shaped, lay them on a baking pan, cover with butter and roast in a moderate oven for about thirty minutes; when done serve inside of a folded napkin. VEGETABLES. 843 Broiled. In order to have them broiled cut some steam-boiled, peeled potatoes in slices three- eighths of an inch thick, then trim olive-shaped and lay them in a double broiler; salt and coat over with melted butter and broil on a slow fire; dress them inside a folded napkin. (2833). TOMATOES A LA BOQUILLON (Tomates a la Boquillon). Have very plump tomatoes, plunge them into boiling water, peel off the skins and cut them into four pieces; place these in a saucepan with salt, pepper, fresh butter and sugar, cover and let cook on a brisk fire for a few moments; they are then ready to serve. (2834). TOMATOES A LA FROSSAKT (Tomates a la Frossart). From the stalk end of the tomatoes suppress with a pastry cutter a round piece an inch and a half in diameter; empty out the insides, drain and fill them with chicken forcemeat (No. 75), adding to it as much foies-gras from a terrine pressed through a sieve, truffles, mushrooms, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg and grated parmesan. Fill the tomatoes through a pocket and bake them in a slack oven for fifteen minutes. Range them in a circle, pour Madeira sauce (No. 492) in the center and on each tomato lay a round piece of glazed truffle. (2835). TOMATOES, PKOVENQAL STYLE STUITED (Tomates Farcies a la Provenpale). Tomatoes for stuffing must be selected of uniform size; cut off the tops an inch and a half in diameter, extract all the seeds, salt the insides and then drain; fill them with the following prep- aration: Fry some finely chopped onions in oil with a little crushed garlic and finely chopped mush- rooms; when these have rendered up their moisture add chopped parsley, moisten with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and meat glaze (No. 402), season and thicken with bread-crumbs. Fill the tomatoes, range them on a baking tin, cover the tops with bread-crumbs, pour oil over and bake for half an hour in a moderate oven. (2836). TOMATOES A LA TREVISE (Tomates a la Tr6vise), Cut twelve medium, sound tomatoes across in two through their thickest part; extract all the liquid and lay them one beside the other on a buttered baking tin. Have a pint of good white wine mirepoix stock (No. 419), into which pour four tablespoonfuls of tomato puree (No. 730) and sufficient bread-crumbs to thicken, adding salt, pepper, a quarter of a pound of finely chopped ham and chopped parsley. Fill the halved tomatoes with this preparation, dredge bread-crumbs and grated parmesan over, pour on some oil and let brown nicely in a hot oven; dress them on top of a buttered thickened half-glaze sauce (No. 413), mixing into it more butter and lemon juice. (2837). TOMATOES BAKED (Tomates Gratings). Remove the skins by plunging the tomatoes into boiling water; cut each one across in two, press out the seeds and lay them in a large frying pan with melted butter; season and reduce all their moisture. Range them in a buttered baking dish, the round parts on the bottom and scatter over cooked fine herbs, composed of shallot fried in butter with chopped mushrooms, chopped ham, parsley and bread-crumbs; pour butter or oil over and bake for fifteen minutes in a slack oven. (2838). TOMATOES BEOILED, HOT MAYONNAISE SAUOE (Tomates Grilles, a la Sauce Mayonnaise Ohaude). Throw some sound tomatoes in boiling water to remove the skin; cut them across in two, season with salt and pour oil over. Place them on a hinged double broiler and broil on a slow fire, basting frequently with oil. Dress them on a hot dish and cover with hot mayonnaise sauce (No. 433). The mayonnaise sauce may be served separately if desired. Tomatoes are frequently served broiled without any sauce, simply cooked as above. (2839\ TOMATOES IN OASES, BAKED (Tomates en Oaisses Gratine'es). Throw some tomatoes into boiling water to peel off their skins readily; cut them in two through their thickest part, press out all the liquid and seeds and fill them with a forcemeat made with cold chicken meat, cut from the legs, as much bread-crumbs and as much cooked fine herbs (No. 385) as bread; season well and stir in a few egg-yolks. Lay each half tomato in an oiled case (Fig. 439) stiffened in the oven, bestrew bread-crumbs and grated parmesan over, baste with butter and bake in a moderate oven. 844 THE EPICUREAN. (2840). TOMATOES, QUEEN STYLE (Tomates a la Eeine). Throw some small tomatoes an inch and three-quarters to two inches in diameter into boiling water; peel off the skins and open them on top, then take out the seeds, salt the insides and drain off all their water. Fill them with well-seasoned chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75), adding to it the same amount of cooked fine herbs (No. 385) and on top lay a channeled mushroom (No 118), then cover with a thin bard of fat pork. Arrange the tomatoes on a buttered baking tin and set them in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes; dress in a circle and pour in the center a well- buttered supreme sauce (No. 547), adding chopped-up truffles to it. (2841), TOMATOES A LA GIBBONS-SAUTED AND PRIED (Tomates Sautfcs et Frites a la Gibbons). Split the tomatoes in two through their thickness, drain off their liquid and season; saute them in butter and oil, half of each, strew over chopped parsley and place them in the center of a dish; garnish around with fried tomatoes prepared as follows: Plunge some small tomatoes in boiling water, peel and cut them in four even parts; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, dip them into frying batter (No. 137), then in hot frying fat, drain, salt and arrange them around the saute'd tomatoes. (2842). TOMATOES STUITED WITH PEESH MUSHEOOMS (Tomates Farcies aux Champignons Prais). Chop up some clean fresh mushrooms, fry a chopped onion, and add it to these, and con- tinue to fry until all the moisture is evaporated, then season and remove from the fire. Bind :'t with a little sauce, then with an equal quantity of bread-crumbs soaked and pressed, a few ^aw egg-yolks, adding some chopped parsley. Select fine, sound tomatoes, smooth and round, of even size, but not too large nor too ripe; cut out a piece from the top in order to open and empty out partially, then salt and drain them for a quarter of an hour, filling them afterward with the mushroom preparation, and smoothing the tops nicely. Range the tomatoes in a small bordered baking pan, bestrew them with bread crumbs and pour over some oil; cook for three-quarters of an hour in a slow oven. (2843). TEUFPLES IN A NAPKIN OE IN A OEOUSTADE (Truffes en Serviette on en Croustade). Choose one pound of the finest medium-sized, round and well- marbled truffles; clean and brush over; wrap each one separately in a thin slice of fresh pork. Fry slowly in butter without coloring one ounce of raw lean ham, cut from the kernel and the sinews removed, as much carrot and the same of onions, all three to be cut in eighth of an inch pieces, one bay leaf, FIG. 557. thyme, a small slice of garlic and one clove. When these ingredients have been fried colorless moisten with a quarter of a bottleful of champagne or white wine and let boil, then skim and sim- mer for twenty minutes. Add the truffles and cook slcwly for ten minutes; thicken the stock very slightly with a bit of kneaded butter (No. 579) and close the saucepan hermetically; set it in a bain- marie for half an hour. Dress the truffles in a folded napkin (Fig. 557). Butter the sauce, pass it through a tammy and serve it in a sauce-boat the same time as the truffles. These can also be dressed in a basket made of border paste (No. 131), decorated with fanciful cuts made of the same paste, or even one made of carved bread. In either case have the basket very tasteful and elegant and spread out open on the top. VEGETABLES. 845 (2844). TRUFFLES IN SHELLS, BAKED (Truffes en Coquilles, Gratings). Peel some truffles and put the parings into a saucepan with a little Madeira wine, parsley, thyme and bay leaf; let boil and leave in a bain-marie (Fig. 122) for half an hour. Cut the truffles in three-sixteenths inch slices, warm them in butter, drain this off and replace it by thick bechamel (No. 409), the above truffle essence and cream, seasoning with salt, nutmeg, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and Madeira wine, then reduce. Butter some silver shells (Fig. 438), strew over with bread-crumbs and fill with the truffles, then sprinkle over more bread-crumbs and grated parme- san; pour melted butter over and brown in a hot oven; serve. The minced truffles can be replaced by small whole ones trimmed into balls or olives. (2845). TRUFFLES STUFFED (Truffes Farcies). Select seven or eight large, unpeeled truffles, having them very clean, round and of equal size; put them into a narrow saucepan one beside the other and cook them for eight or ten minutes while covered, adding salt and white or Madeira wine; leave them to get partly cold in this stock. Place in a small saucepan a few spoonfuls of cooked puree of foies-gras; mingle with it a little good reduced and thickened Madeira sauce (No. 492), add some raw egg -yolks and seasoning. Drain the truffles, cut a round piece from the top, remove it and empty the insides with a vege- table spoon (Fig. 91); cut up a part of these removed pieces and add them to the foies-gras. Use this preparation to fill the truffles; close the opening with the removed cover and return them to the original saucepan with a little of their broth and a little melted glaze (No. 402); heat them for ten minutes while basting, then remove and cook the contents, while covered, for seven or eight minutes longer, off the fire. Dress them in a vegetable dish and pour over their own stock. (2846). TRUFFLE TIMBALE A LA PERIGORD (Timbale de Truffes a la Pengord). Decorate a timbale mold with fanciful cuts of noodle paste (No. 142); dampen these and line the mold with a layer of fine foundation paste (No. 135) an eighth of an inch in thickness; cover both bottom and sides of the timbale with very thin bards of fresh fat pork. Peel as many medium-sized truffles as the timbale will hold, having them black and mellow; put them to cook in a foies-gras terrine, seasoning with salt, pepper, nutmeg, sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay leaf, also some minced ham and Madeira wine; place the terrine in the oven and as soon as the liquid comes to a boil take it out and let stand till cold, leaving the truffles in with the stock. Suppress the thyme and bay leaf, drain off the stock and reduce it with a pint of financiere sauce (No. 464) reduced to the consistency of a succulent sauce; transfer the truffles to the timbale, cover with a part of the sauce and lay over a flat of the same paste. Cook the timbale in a hot oven for three- quarters of an hour and serve unmolded; pour the remainder of the sauce into an aperture on top; serve at once. (2847). TURNIPS GLAZED (Navets Glacis). Prepare some cylindrical of turnips one inch in diameter and one and a half inches long, hav- ing them beveled on both ends; blanch these in salted water, refresh and when well drained put them into a frying pan containing very hot butter. Color and season with salt and a pinch of sugar; drain once more, then place them in a sautoir and moisten with broth (No. 194a). When cooked the liquid should be reduced to a glaze. (2848). TURNIPS. WITH SPANISH, BECHAMEL OR ALLEMANDE SAUCE (Navets a la Sauce Espagnole a la sauce Be"chamel ou a la sauce Allemandel Trim some turnips into seven-eighths of an inch balls, or in the shape of crescents, olives or cloves of garlic; blanch in salted water, drain and saute them colorless in butter, seasoning with salt and sugar; drain off the butter, lay them in a saucepan, and moisten with gravy (No. 404) and espagnole sauce (No. 414), finishing to cook quite slowly. The espagnole sauce can be replaced by bechamel sauce and cream (No. 411), or else allemande sauce (No. 407) and broth (No. 194a), fin- ishing with chicken glaze (No. 398) and fresh butter. 846 THE EPICUREAN. (2849). TELTOW TUENIPS WITH CHESTNUTS (Navets de Teltow aux Marrons). Scrape and throw the turnips into tepid water, then plunge into boiling salted water placed in a well-tinned saucepan; boil over a moderate fire, and when done drain and put them back into a saucepan with a piece of butter and a little sugar; toss for a few moments, and moisten with broth (No. 194a); season and thicken with a little butter, into which stir some flour slightly browned in the oven; reduce to a short sauce, then pour into a vegetable dish; spread them over to form a hollow in the center to be filled with whole chestnuts cooked in broth (No. 2727). EG-OS (CEufs). FIG. 558. (2850). EGGS ((Eufs). The eggs of chickens are most generally used. Boiled eggs should be moderately cooked; they are the most nourishing and easily digested; duck eggs are as nutritive as those of chickens. After these, the best are pheasant eggs, but they are very scarce. In order to discover whether an egg be fresh, hold it against the light of a candle, and if transparent without being spotted then it is fresh. The white of an egg consists of one part of albumen and one part solid matter, this appearing as an envelope to the albuminous liquid, and has the appearance of white flakes, also of a fatty substance formed of olein and stearine. The yolk is composed partly of albumen, partly of a fatty matter containing olein, and another part that is colored, besides one of a solid membi'anous composition. (2851). EGGS AU MIKOIK A LA JOCKEY OLUB ((Eufs au Miroir a la Jockey Club), Suppress the thin skin from one half of a white veal kidney; divide it, take out the fibrous fat, and then cut the meat into small dice. Heat some butter in a pan, put with it the kidneys, season and toss on a bright fire to have them cook rapidly, then remove with a skimmer, and set into a small vessel. Into the pan the kidneys were stewed in put two or three spoonfuls of half- glaze sauce (No. 413), and as much tomato puree (No. 730), reduce all to a third, mixingin a spoon- ful of Madeira wine; boil up once or twice, then take it from the fire and return the kidneys, also half as much cooked truffles cut exactly the same size as these; the sauce should be consistent. Cook six eggs au mirior on a large buttered dish, that is, baste the egg yolk with boiling butter several times while cooking in the oven; this will make them very glossy; cut them into rounds with a pastry cutter (three inches in diameter), take up with a palette, and dress in a circle on the bottom of a dish; heat the kidneys without boiling, and dress them inside the circle. (2852). EGGS AU MIROIE A LA LULLY ((Eufs au Miroir a la Lully). Butter a large dish or baking pan; break in six eggs, pour boiling butter over the yolks, and put in a very hot oven or under a salamander (Fig. 123); when done properly cut them rounded with, a pastry cutter two and a quarter to two and a half inches in diameter; take them up with a large (847) 848 THE EPICUREAN. palette and dress on a dish on slices of ham of the same dimensions, and three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and the ham on croutons of fried bread cut the same, having taken them from the FIG. 559. kernel part of a good raw ham; fry them in butter in a pan, turning them over. Fill the center of this circle with a hash made of sliced and seasoned ducks' livers mingled with a little Drown Madeira wine sauce (No. 492). (2853), EGGS AU MIROIR A LA MEYERBEER (OBufs au Miroir k la Meyerbeer). Peel off the skin from two mutton kidneys; split them lengthwise on the roundest side without separating the parts, run two small wooden skewers through each kidney, season and roll in oil, then broil for eight or ten minutes, turning them over in the meanwhile. Cook two eggs in a china dish (Fig. 567), having them glossy on top; cut them round-shaped with a two and a half inch pastry cutter and take them up with a palette and dress on a hot dish with some tomato sauce (No. 549) underneath. After removing the kidneys from the fire glaze them with a brush, pull out the skewers and divide each one in two. Dress them on both sides of the eggs, the cut side uppermost, and fill the hollow with a consistent Perigueux sauce (No. 517); serve. (2854)' EGGS AU MIROIR A LA PROVENgAL ((Eufs au Miroir k la ProvenpaleX. Pick out three or four even-sized tomatoes, cut them through their thickest part in two, sup- press the seeds and put them into a pan with some oil; season and cook on both sides until they have reduced their moisture, then take them from the pan and dress on a serving dish capable of being put in the oven; bestrew with chopped parsley mingled with a bit of garlic and a pinch of dry bread-crumbs, pour over some oil and let brown for ten minutes; remove and lay on top of each tomato one miroired egg cut round with a pastry cutter two and a quarter inches in diameter. (2855). EGGS AU MIROIR A LA TIVOLIER ((Eufs au Miroir k la Tivolier). Toast some slices of bread cut into rounds two and a half inches across and on each one place a layer of chopped marrow; set into a hot oven. Fry raw ham cut in one-eighth inch squares in a pan with lard; drain this off and finish with butter, meat glaze (No. 402) and lemon juice. Fry some eggs in a pan; gloss by putting them in the oven and sprinkling with boiling butter; dress the marrow toasts with the ham around; pare the eggs with a two and a half inch pastry cutter, lift them up one after the other to place on top of the toast. Dress in a circle, garnish around with the tomatoes and serve with a good Madeira sauce (No. 492), sprinkling chopped parsley over the whole. (2856). BOILED EGGS ((Eufs k la Coque), When only a few eggs are required proceed as follows: Boil some water in a saucepan, remove it from the fire, and plunge the eggs into the liquid with a skimmer, being careful not to break the shells; cover the saucepan to allow the water to boil up again, and from this time cook the eggs for three minutes. Should they be large or freshly laid take the saucepan off after three minutes, leaving the eggs one minute longer in the liquid. Eggs may also be plunged into cold water, put over a brisk fire and taken ,_ f/A OIL at tne nrSu ooii. FIG. ow. Another Way is to plunge them into boiling water and let cook for one minute after the water has boiled up again, then withdraw the vessel from the fire, and leave them in the water for five minutes. Eggs are cooked by steam in four minutes. The ordinary method is the first mentioned. However it is very difficult to tell exactly how long to boil an egg, for some like them scarcely heated through, while others prefer the whites slightly hard. Boiled eggs are generally eaten from their shells with a spoon, but many empty the contents into a glass or cup, seasoning with salt, pepper, and a little fresh butter, then mixing thoroughly. Boiled eggs should be served in folded napkins or in imitated chickens made of china. (2857). HAKD-BOILED EGGS AND AUKOKA (CEufs Durs et & 1'Aurore). These should not be cooked too long, still they only attain a proper degree after they have boiled ten to twelve minutes. On removing from the fire they must be thrown into cold water, and left to cool for at least fifteen minutes; drain and shell, without injuring any of the white part, which should remain intact. Aurora. Cut lengthwise in halves eight hard-boiled eggs; take out the yolks and divide each halved white in four parts; put these in a sautoir, season with salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168) and nutmeg, and dilute with well-reduced bechamel (No. 409), into which mix finely cut-up chives; dress this in a baking dish. Rub the yolks through a wire sieve directly over the eggs, besprinkle with salt, brush over with hazel-nut butter (No. 567), and heat for a few moments in a hot oven; serve at once. The chives may be replaced by mushrooms and truffles, both finely minced, adding to the bechamel a quarter as much soubise sauce (No. 548)1 (2858), HAED-BOILED EGGS A LA BENNETT ((Eufs Dura a la Bennett), Boil eight eggs hard, the same as for Aurora (No. 2857); shell and lay them in tepid water until needed. Mince eight ounces of white onions, blanch for a few moments in salted water, drain and wipe on a cloth; lay these in a saucepan on a fire with melted butter; fry slowly while stirring until they be cooked, then season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; thicken with bechamel (No. 409), having reduced it with a little mushroom broth and melted meat-glaze (No. 402); add as much minced mushrooms as onions, and an ounce of fresh butter, and then drain the eggs, wipe and cut them crosswise, remove the yolks, press them through a sieve and mix well with the sauce. This sauce must be succulent but not too thick; strain it through a tammy. Dress the white parts in layers intercalated with the onion and the mushroom stew and pour the sauce over. (2859). HAED-BOILED EGGS A LA BENOIST ((Eufs Durs k la Benoist). Cook six eggs, the same as for Aurora (No. 2857): shell and cut them lengthways in two; re- move the yolks and rub these through a sieve. Prepare a well-reduced bechamel (No. 409) thickened with raw egg-yolks; when cold mix in the six cooked egg-yolks, as much mushrooms, and half as many truffles as mushrooms, all to be chopped up separately, and then beat in three very stiffly beaten egg-whites. Cover the bottom of a dish with a layer of veal godiveau (No. 85) with chives, having it a quarter of an inch thick; replace the egg-yolks by a little montglas and fasten the two halves together; lay these reshaped eggs over the godiveau and cover the whole with the beaten egg preparation; pour over butter, push in a moderate oven to heat the eggs well and color them nicely. (2860). HARD-BOILED EGGS WITH NOODLES A LA OAEOLLI ((Eufs Durs aux Nouilles a la Oarolli). Blanch some finely shredded noodles in salted water for three minutes, drain and lay tlem in a saucepan with salt and nutmeg; leave to simmer for a few moments, then range them on a vegetable dish with grated parmesan strewn over. Boil eight eggs hard, the same as Aurora (No. 2857), cut them across in slices, dress them in layers over the noodles, then a layer of minced fresh mushrooms; season each one of these with salt, pepper and nutmeg and mask the surface with bechamel (No. 409) reduced with the mushroom broth, seasoned with prepared red pepper (No. 168) and well buttered. Strew the top with grated parmesan and melted butter and bake in a hot oven. (2861). HAED-BOILED EGGS A LA GIBSON ((Eufs Durs a la Gibson). Mince some drained, blanched celery-roots; fry them colorless in butter, then oook in broth. (No. 194a) with a little sugar; reduce the liquid to a glaze, add some bechamel (No. 409) and thicken with eight hard egg-yolks pounded with as much butter and then rubbed through a sieve; add also the whites of these eight eggs minced up finely and mix them together with the sauce. Butter and bread-crumb eight small silver shells (Fig. 438); fill them with the prepared eggs, strew bread-crumbs and parmesan over, baste with butter and bake in a hot oven. (2862). HAED-BOILED EGGS A LA WASHBUEN ((Eufs Durs k la Washburn). Take the whites ot eight hard-boiled eggs; cut them in thin slices or in quarter-inch dice, also some cooked truffles and mushrooms; with these fill eight medium-sized shells (Fig. 438), alter- nating the three different ingredients; cover with some reduced soubise (No. 543). Smooth 850 TME EPICUREAN. to a dome and mask this with a thin layer of chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75); dredge white bread-crumbs over all, pour on a little melted butter and bake for two minutes in the oven; serve at once. (2863). HARD-BOILED EGG CROQUETTES (Croquettes d'GEufs Durs). Chop twelve cold hard-boiled eggs in three-sixteenths inch squares, also half a pound of mush- rooms the same size. Reduce a quart of bechamel (No. 409), season and add to it a little meat FIG. 561. glaze (No. 402) and chopped truffles, mix in the egg salpicon and take off at the first boil. When this preparation is cold form it into croquettes, either round, cylindrical or flat ovals; immerse them in eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color; drain, salt and serve on a folded napkin with sprigs of fried parsley on top. (2864). HARD-BOILED EGGS, NEW YORK STYLE (CBufs Durs k la New Yorkaise). Have six eggs boiled hard, the same as for Aurora (No. 2857); shell and split them lengthwise in two; remove the yolks and pound them in a mortar with an ounce of melted butter, salt, pepper, nutmeg, two raw egg-yolks and a gill of bechamel (No. 409), beating the whole well together; then stir in half as much chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89). Fill the halved eggs with this prep- aration, rounding the tops well; range a layer of this same on the bottom of a dish, lay the stuffed eggs over, pour on some butter and dredge with parmesan cheese; push into a moderate oven to heat and brown to a fine color; pour Colbert sauce (No. 451) around and serve. (2865). HARD-BOILED EGGS, RUSSIAN STYLE (ffiufs Durs k la Russe.) Boil six eggs hard, the same as for Aurora (No. 2857); cut them in two lengthwise, remove the yolks, and chop up separately two ounces of ham, four ounces of tongue, and four ounces of chicken, mingling all together with bechamel sauce (No. 409); pound the yolks with half as much butter. Put a bed of the chicken salpicon on a dish capable of going into the oven, range the halved egg-whites over and cover with the remainder of it; bestrew with bread-crumbs and parmesan cheese, pour over butter and bake in a moderate oven; decorate around with some round caviare canapes (No. 777) and serve. (2866). PRIED EGGS A LA EUGENE ANDRE' (ffiufs Frits Eugene Andre"). Cut tomatoes in two through their thickness, press out and fry in oil with shallots, a little gar- lic and chopped parsley; finish with a little meat glaze (No. 402). Dress in a circle, tilling the FIG. 562. center with cepes fried in oil, with fine herbs, lemon juice and a little brown sauce (No. 414). Heat some butter in a pan and when very hot slip in the eggs broken beforehand on a plate; season the whites with salt and scald the yolks with boiling butter; when the eggs are fried, slip them over the tomatoes and cepes and serve. (2867). PRIED EGGS A LA MONTEBELLO (ffiufs Frits k la Montebello). Poach some eggs; when cold pare and wipe on a cloth; season and roll simply in flout then plunge them into hot frying fat, and as soon as dry and nicely colored remove with a skim- mer, drain on a cloth and lay each one on a plain crouton of bread sauted in clarified butter. Dress the eggs on a dish and cover over with Montebello sauce (No. 502). 851 (2868). IKIED EGGS, NEAPOLITAN STYLE, TURNED OYEE ((Eufs Frits des deux Cot6s a la Napolitaine). Heat either oil, lard or butter in a small, deep pan; incline it slightly, and break an egg in the liquid; cook and bring it over with a perforated spoon to have it attain a long, well-rounded shape; as soon as done drain, and cook another one the same way, until sufficient are ready, and when all are well drained lay each one on a separate crouton (No. 51). Dress in a circle, and fill the center with Neapolitan macaroni (No. 2960) ; pour over the eggs some tomato sauce (No. 549) reduced with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and good gravy (No. 404). (286S). PRIED EGGS TURNED OVER-A LA SOLE ((Eufs Frits des Deux Cote^-a la Sole). Break two eggs on a plate and season: pour some clarified butter in a small pan, and when it reaches hazel-nut (No. 567), slip in the eggs carefully, and pour more butter over. When they are cooked underneath, turn them over, and a minute after slide them on a dish with the butter; baste over with a coffeespoonf ul of good vinegar heated in a pan. (2870). FRIED EGGS WITH BROWN BUTTER ((Eufs Frits au Beurre Noir). Break four or five eggs into a frying pan containing some hot butter; scald the yolks with the butter, and cook until glossy; season, remove carefully with a large skimmer, and lay them on a dish. Put more butter into the pan, and when slightly brown without burning, strain it over the eggs; put a little vinegar in the frying pan, and pour it over the eggs through a strainer. (2871). FRIED EGGS WITH CHOPPED PARSLEY ((Eufs Frits au Persil bache"). Heat clarified butter in a small pan; break two very fresh eggs on a plate, season with salt, and pour them carefully in the pan; fry slowly, and then slip them on a dish, throwing over a little chopped parsley. (2872). FRIED EGGS WITH HAM OR BAOON ((Eufs Frits au Jambon ou au Petit SaleO. Broil on a slow fire either some ham or bacon; put one or the other on a dish, and slip fried eggs over it. (2873). EGGS MOLDED A LA BEDFORD-IN OOOOTTES AND EGGS OOOOTTES ((Eufs Moulds en Oocottes a la Bedford et (Eufs Gocottes). Cover the bottoms and sides of a few cocottes, a small earthen saucepan standing on three feet, able to go in the oven (Fig. 563), with a layer of liver baking force- meat (No. 64), thickened with a little raw forcemeat thinned with duxelle sauce (No. 461) and Madeira wine; break a fresh egg over, season the white with salt and pour a little hot butter over the top. Place these FlGt 563 cocottes in a sautoir containing a little hot water; poach the eggs for eight to ten minutes in a slack oven, and after removing bestrew with truffles and cooked beef tongue, cut either in small dice or chopped up; dress the cocottes on a dish or on a folded napkin. Eggs Cocottes. Have small cocottes (Fig. 563); butter the interiors and cover the bottoms with a preparation made with a few finely chopped shallots, slightly fried in butter, to which add a few finely chopped fresh mushrooms; after these have evaporated all their moisture, add some chopped parsley, salt, pepper, nutmeg and chopped truffles. Break an egg in each cocotte, pour boiling hot melted butter over and stand the cocottes on a baking sheet; push into a medium hot oven for ten minutes, then serve. (2874). EGGS MOLDED A LA OOLBERT-IN OASES ((Eufs Mode's en Caisses k la Colbert. Butter a few china cases, covering the bottom and sides with a chopped raw truffle preparation mingled with chicken cream forcemeat (No. 75). In the hollow center of each break a fresh egg, season the top and butter over with a brush; place the cases on a small raised-edge baking pan having hot water at the bottom, and poach them for six to eight minutes in a slack oven; after removing wipe nicely and cover the tops with a layer of Colbert sauce (No. 451). FIG. 564. 852 THE (2875). EGGS MOLDED A L'E'OHIQUIER-IN OASES ((Eufs Moulds en Oaisses a 1'Echiquier). Prepare a paste with fresh lobster butter (No. 580), an equal amount of white bread-crumbs, some chopped parsley and half as much cooked and chopped crawfish or lobster tail. With this paste cover the bottom and sides of some round china cases shaped the same as the paper cases shown in Fig. 439, leaving an empty space in the center, and into this break a fresh egg; season and cover with a little butter. Set the cases on a small baking pan containing a little hot water, push it into a slack oven and cook the eggs; pour a little veloute sauce (No. 415), over each egg, having it well buttered with lobster butter, and sprinkle chopped lobster coral over the whole. (2876). EGGS MOLDED A LA PARISIAN, ALSO GALLED TALLEYRAND, POLIGNAO, POLISH SOYER ((Eufs Moulds & la Parisienne, Dits Talleyrand, Polignac, Soyer). Eggs a la Parisienne are molded in mousseline molds (No. 1, Fig. 138), or else in oval ones of the same size. Cut two truffles into small dice; butter eight molds, strew the insides with the truffles and into each one break a whole fresh egg, salt and baste the top with a little butter; lay the molds in a sautoir with hot water reaching to half their height, and poach in a moderate oven for eight to ten minutes; when done to perfection turn out the eggs on a dish, covering the bottom of it with a little poivrade sauce (No. 522). Instead of buttering the molds they may be wetted in the inside with melted meat glaze (No. 402) and bestrewn with chopped parsley, truffles, mushrbouis or cooked red beef tongue, or else a mixture of all these. 12877). EGGS MOLDED WITH POIES-GRAS-IN OASES ((Eufs Moulds en Oaisses aux Foies-Gras). Brush over with butter six round crimped paper cases (Fig. 439) having them three inches across at the opening, two at the bottom, and an inch and a quarter high. Rub a little pate-de-foies-gras from a terrine through a fine sieve, and mix slowly into it some melted glaze (No. 402), and as much chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) as foies-gras. Spread a layer of this on the bottom of each case, poach the forcemeat in a slack oven, and then break an egg on top of each one; scald the yolks with hot melted butter applied with a brush; season the whites with salt, and range the cases on a grate; lay this on a baking-sheet, and cook the eggs in a slow oven from eight to ten minutes, then place each case inside another paper one, having it larger and very clean, and dress en a folded napkin. The foies-gras forcemeat can be replaced by one of fish, game or chicken, with a salpieca of either shrimps, mushrooms or truffles. (2878). ARGENTINE OMELET (Omelette a 1'Argentine). Break six fresh eggs in a bowl; season with salt and white pepper; beat with a whip or fork, and strain through a strainer into another vessel; beat again with a few bits of butter laid here and there. Set an omelet pan on a hot fire, and in it have three ounces of very hot butter; skim, then pour in the eggs all at once; stir lightly with a spoon, and when the eggs begin to thicken bring FIG. 565. them forward in the pan; fill the center with peeled eggplant cut in quarter-inch squares, fried in butter and thickened with a little half-glaze (No. 400). Close the omelet with a single stroke of the handle, remove the pan from the fire, and with the spoon close it entirely. Put more butter in the pan, and incline it so that it can slip under the omelet, then color it nicely, and turn it over on a dish; garnish around with an Argentine sauce (No. 429). (2879). BACON OMELET (Omelette au Petit Sale"). For three raw eggs cut one ounce of bacon in quarter-inch thick slices; suppress the rind, and cut into small quarter-inch squares after paring off the smoked parts that cover the bacon; fry these pieces in butter, add the eggs, and finish the same as parsley omelet (No. 2903). EG-G-S. 853 (2880). BEEF PALATE OE LAMB'S TEOTTEES OMELET (Omelette au Palais de Brauf ou aux Pieds d'Agneau). Cut some beef palates or boned lamb's trotters in quarter-inch squares, and put them into a bordelaise sauce (No. 436); fill the interior of an omelet with the preparation, pouring the sauce around. (2881). BEETINI OMELET (Omelette a la BertinU Prepare and cook an omelet the same as Argentine (No. 2878). Pour into a risot, thickened with parmesan, a little half-glaze (No. 400) and veloute (No. 415) and with it fill the omelet. Cut some celery hearts or roots in quarter-inch squares, blanch, cook in broth (No. 194a) and let fall to a glaze; add veloute reduced with white wine, season and pour this around the dressed omelet. (2882). BONVALET OMELET (Omelette Bonvalet). Fry a tablespoonful of chopped onion in butter with two ounces of chopped morils or mush- rooms; add salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley, marinated tunny fish cut in quarter-inch squares, meat glaze (No. 402) and cooked ham cut in three-sixteenths of an inch pieces. With these ingre- dients fill an omelet, and finish it the same as an Argentine (No. 2878) ; pour around an espagnol sauce (No. 414) containing minced gherkins. (2883). CHEESE OMELET-SWISS OE PAEMESAN-WITH CETJSTS AND FONDUE (Omelette au Fromage de Gruyere ou au Parmesan aux Oroutes Garnies de Fondue). Beat up eight eggs in a bowl and season; mix in four spoonfuls of fresh Swiss cheese cut up in small dice, adding two spoonfuls of grated parmesan, and also one of grated Swiss, then a piece of good butter divided in small pats. Make the omelet over a good fire, fold and turn it on to an oval dish; surround both sides with small round hollowed crusts (No. 52) filled with fondue (No. 2954). (2884). OHIOKEN LIVEE OMELET (Omelette aux Foies de Volaille). Cut some chicken livers in three-eighths of an inch squares; saute them in butter, dilute with a little Madeira wine and half -glaze (No. 400) ; fill the inside of the omelet with this, and finish the same as Argentine (No. 2878), pouring the sauce around. (2885). OLAM OMELET HAED AND SOFT (Omelette aux Lucines Molles et Dures). Blanch small clams; remove the hard parts and mix in well-buttered allemande sauce (No. 407); fill the inside of an Argentine omelet with this, and pour what remains of the sauce around. (2886). OEEAM OMELET PLAIN (Omelette Nature k la Oreme). Break seven or eight eggs in a vessel, season and beat lightly, mixing in a few small pieces of butter and two spoonfuls of raw cream. Melt some fresh butter in an omelet pan, pour in the eggs, stir quickly with a large spoon and thicken properly, keeping the omelet mellow; when it detaches from the bottom bring it forward to roll over; turn it rapidly on a long dish and form it prettily, shaping the ends under so as to have them pointed; brush the surface with melted butter and throw over some chopped parsley. (2887). DESJAEDINS OMELET (Omelette k la Desjardins). Fry in oil (for three eggs) one peeled tomato cut across in two, pressed and divided in small three-eighth inch squares, half as much minced fresh mushrooms, a little onion cut in squares and fried in butter, olives cut in eight pieces, salt, cayenne, nutmeg, chopped parsley and meat-glaze (No. 402). With this preparation fill the inside of a parsley omelet (No. 2903); decorate the top with thin anchovy fillets to imitate lozenges; fill each one of these through a cornet with solid tomatoed bearnaise sauce (No. 433), and on each point set a little bit of chopped parsley; pour around a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), finished with lemon juice and plenty of butter. (2888). DUXELLE OE COOKED FINE HEEB OMELET (Omelette k la Duxelle ou aux Fines Herbes Ouites). Chop up some onions and shallots very small; fry them in a little grated fat pork or butter, put in some finely chopped fresh mushrooms, and when these have evaporated their moisture add some 854 THE EPICUREAN. chopped parsley and two spoonfuls of chopped truffles, mixing in a little veloute sauce (No. 415). Prepare the omelet the same as the parsley and fill it with the preparation; surround each side with hollow half-round-shaped crusts (No. 52) to be filled with tomato puree (No. 730). (2889). FINE HEEB OMELET -EAW (Omelette aux Pines Herbes Orues). Chop or cut finely some fine herbs, such as parsley, chervil, tarragon and chives; mix them in with the eggs, and finish the same as the parsley omelet, or either of these herbs may be used sep- arately in making a chervil, tarragon or chive omelet. (2890). FEOG OMELET (Omelette aux Grenouilles). Saute some large frogs in butter, bone and lay the meats in a sautoir, adding well-buttered allemande sauce (No. 407) and soubise sauce (No. 543), half of each. Fill and finish an omelet the same as the parsley omelet (No. 2903), and pour around half supreme sauce (No. 547) and half soubise sauce, keeping it rather thin. (2891). OMELET, GEEMAN STYLE (Omelette a I'Allemande). Dilute two tablespoonfuls of flour in a bowl with two whole eggs, one yolk and a gill of cream, salt, pepper and nutmeg; strain through a fine wire sieve and then add finely cut-up chives. Put four ounces of clarified butter in a pan to heat, pour in the preparation, spreading it over the entire surface of the pan; prick the omelet as fast as it swells up, and turn it over when of a fine color; add a little more butter and brown nicely on the other side before serving. With this quantity several omelets can be obtained. (2892). GEEEN OMELET WITH FINE HEEBS, SPINACH, OE WITH SOEEEL CEUSTS (Omelette r Verte aux Fiues Herbes aux Oroutes d'Epinards ou d'Oseille). Chop up parsley leaves, chervil, tarragon and clean sorrel leaves, put them into a saucer and mix in some finely shredded chives. Break eight eggs in a bowl, mix with them the chopped herbs, season and beat; melt some butter in an omelet pan, pour in the eggs and stir with a fork to thicken; as soon as the omelet detaches from the pan fold over and turn it out on a long dish; moisten the top with a brush dipped in maltre-d'hotel butter (No. 581) and surround with some hollowed-out bread-crusts filled in \\ith a fine pure"e of spinach (No. 729); glaze these over also. With Sorrel. Chop up a full handful of sorrel leaves, free of stalks; after having them well washed and cleansed, fry in butter and mix with beaten eggs. Make an omelet the same as the above and serve without any garnishing. (2893). HAM AND GEEEN PEA OMELET (Omelette au Jambon et aux Petits Pois). Make an omelet with three eggs the same as a parsley omelet (No. 2903), only suppressing the parsley; when done, and before folding it, put in two tablespoonfuls of lean cooked ham cut in three- sixteenths inch squares, or else only one spoonful and one of green peas cooked English style (No. 2742). (2894). HAVANESE OMELET (Omelette Havanaise). Chop up some chicken livers and mushrooms; fry the livers in butter, add the mushrooms and moisten with port wine and espagnole sauce (No. 414), then reduce. Cut some peeled tomatoes in two, press to extract the juice and fry them in oil, also sweet Spanish peppers. Fill the inside of an omelet with the tomatoes, the chopped liver, the sweet peppers and the mushrooms; finish the same as the Argentine (No. 2878). Surround the omelet with the peppers and pour over a little thin Colbert sauce (No. 451). (2895). SMOKED HEEEING OMELET (Omelette aux Harengs Saurs). Pour three ounces of partly molted butter in a vessel, beat it up with a spoon, mixing in with it four egg-yolks, one after the other. When the preparation becomes frothy, add to it two small spoonfuls of flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and lastly three stiffly beaten egg-whites. Mix into this paste the fillets of four smoked herrings heated in the steam of boiling water until the skin is sufficiently softened to remove, then cut them into large dice, suppressing all the bones. Butter the bottom of a large frying pan with melted butter put on with a brush, and when hot pour in the preparation; cook the omelet in a slack oven, pricking it several times with a fork; brush the top with butter and slide it on a dish. EG-G-S. 855 (2896). HUNTER'S OMELET (Omelette au Chasseur). Mince some cepes finely; fry them in oil over a hot fire with a little garlic, salt and pepper; add these to an omelet prepared as follows: Fry a little bread-crumbs or small croutons in butter, mix them into beaten eggs seasoned with salt and pepper and make the omelet as explained for parsley omelet (No. 2903). Fill the omelet with the cepes. Pour a hunter's sauce (No. 480) around when dressed. (2897). KIDNEY OMELET (Omelette aux Rognons). Use either veal or mutton kidneys; cut them up small, saute in butter over a brisk fire, drain and put them back into the pan with half -glaze sauce (No. 413) and white wine; take out the kidneys, reduce the sauce, butter it and replace the kidneys to warm up again, then fill the inside of an omelet with the preparation, and finish it as the Argentine (No. 2878), pouring the sauce around just when ready to serve. (2898). OMELET A LA ANDREWS (Omelette a la Andrews). Have a chicken hash prepared as for No. 2292; with it fill a slightly cooked omelet prepared the same as an Argentine (No. 2878); invert it on a dish that may be placed in the oven. Koll some noodle paste (No. 142) out very thin; allow it to dry a little in the air, roll it on itself to facilitate mincing it finely, then boil in salted water, drain and replace it in the saueepan with milk, white pepper, salt, nutmeg and butter; let simmer for twenty minutes so that nearly all the milk is absorbed, then cover the omelet with these noodles, bestrew with bread-crumbs and par- mesan cheese, sprinkle butter over and let brown in a hot oven; pour around a little bigarde sauce (No. 435). (2899). MUSHROOM OR SWEETBREAD OMELET (Omelette aux Champignons ouaux Risde Veau). Cut up some mushrooms or cooked sweetbreads and place them in a sautoir with allemande sauce (No. 407), season, fill an omelet with either the mushrooms or the sweetbreads and finish by pouring the sauce around. (2900). ONION AND HAM OMELET (Omelette aux Oignons et au Jambon). Mince finely four ounces of white onions (new ones if in season); fry them slowly in butter or oil, stirring until they become tender and lightly colored, then add two ounces of cooked lean ham cut in one-eighth inch squares; drain off the whole. Break eight eggs in a bowl, season with salt, pepper and a little sugar; beat them up well and run through a colander, then add the onion, the ham and some chopped parsley. Heat a little butter in a pan, pour the eggs in and make the omelet over a hot fire without ceasing to stir, keeping it mellow; fold over and turn it with one stroke on a long dish; decorate with strings of tomato sauce (No. 549) put on with a brush. (2901). OYSTER OMELET (Omelette aux Huitres). Blanch raw oysters in their own liquor; drain and roll in veloute sauce (No. 415) or bechamel sauce (No. 409) reduced with the oyster liquor, thickening with raw egg-yolks; dilute with a little cream and fresh butter and finish the same as an Argentine omelet (No. 2878). (2902). OMELET WITH CAVIARE A LA STOEOKEL (Omelette au Caviar a la Stoeckel). Dilute some caviare gradually with cream bechamel (No. 411) and with it fill a chopped pars- ley omelet (No. 2903). Blanch a few cucumbers cut the shape of cloves of garlic, cook in white broth (No. 194a) and have them so that when done the liquid has fallen to a glaze; remoisten with sour cream sauce; place these cucumbers around the omelet. (2903). PARSLEY OMELET (Omelette au Persil). Parsley omelet is frequently confounded with fine herb omelet. Use only eggs, seasoning and chopped parsley. Chop up some very green fresh parsley, put it into the corner of a napkin and dip this in several waters; remove the cloth at once and squeeze out all the moisture. Break eight eggs into a vessel, add the parsley, also pepper and salt. Melt some butter in a pan, pour in the beaten eggs and set it on the open fire; move the pan rapidly with the left hand, using a stew-spoon in the right hand. When the omelet is done fold it on both ends, turn it over on to a dish and shape it prettily. 856 THE: EPICUREAN. (2904). PHYSIOLOGICAL OMELET (Omelette Physiologique), Blanch some oysters or mussels in their own liquor; drain and cut into pieces, removing the feet from the mussels and the muscles from the oysters; add as much marinated tunny fish and as much fresh smoked herring meat and carp milt cut in three-eighths of an inch dice. Fry some shallots in butter, add the oysters, milt, herring and tunny fish, all cut in three-eighths of an inch squares, also parsley, chives, chopped mushrooms, salt, pepper, nutmeg and lemon juice. Fill an omelet with this preparation, the same as an Argentine (No. 2878), and pour around a rather thin cream bechamel (No. 411). (2905). SAUSAGE OMELET (Omelette aux Sancisses). Sausage omelets can be made with Lubeck, Frankfort or fresh sausages. For the unsmoked ones, first broil them, then take off the skins and cut them up into small pieces. For Lubeck sau- sages, fry them in a pan, then cut them up. Plunge Frankfort sausages into boiling water, peel off the skin and divide the meats into small bits. Mix either of this with the uncooked omelet and finish the same as a parsley omelet (No. 2903). (2906). SHRIMP OMELET (Omelette aux Orevettes). Cut each shrimp in quarter-inch squares and mingle with an allemande sauce (No. 407) well buttered with lobster butter (No. 580); season, adding lemon juice, and just when ready to serve fill the omelet with the same and finish as for an Argentine omelet (No. 2878); pour the sauce around. The shrimps may be replaced by lobster or hard-shell crab meat. (2907). SPANISH OMELET (Omelette a 1'Espagnole). This is to be prepared with a tablespoonful of chopped onion, as much peeled and cut-up green pepper, half a crushed clove of garlic and one peeled tomato cut across in two, pressed and divided into quarter-inch squares; fry the onion, garlic and the pepper colorless in oil, add the tomatoes and cover the saucepan; let simmer for fifteen minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper. Break six eggs in a bowl, beat well, season and mix in a third part of the preparation. Make a mellow omelet, fill the center with the solid remaining part and pour the sauce around the whole. Instead of mixing the tomato preparation with the eggs the omelet can be filled with it when made. Pour around a little half -glaze sauce (No. 413). (2908). TEUFFLE OMELET (Omelette aux Trufles). Mince some cooked peeled truffles and put them in a sautoir to mingle with either allemande sauce (No. 407) or else half-glaze sauce (No. 413) with Madeira. Fill the inside of an omelet with these truffles and pour the sauce around. (2909). EGGS ON A DISH (ffiufs sur le Plat), There is very little difference between eggs on a dish or miroir eggs, for they are both cooked the same way, the only difference being that the first ones are served on the same dish they are Fia. 566. FIG. 667. cooked in, while the miroir eggs are basted with boiling butter while cooking and cut in rounds as soon as done with a two and a half inch pastry cutter; take them up with a palette and serve on a plate or dish. To Prepare Eggs on a Dish. These eggs should be cooked in china egg dishes (Fig. 567); to do them properly first butter the dish with fresh or unsalted butter, break the eggs into the dish, and salt over the whites but not the yolks so as not to discolor them; set the dish on a thick, cold baking sheet and push it at once into the oven so that they receive more heat from the top than bottom; as soon as the yolks are glossy remove the dish from the oven and, if necessary, finish cooking on top, being careful not to have the whites done too much. Eggs cooked in this way are generally served on the same dish, with or without a garnishing. EOOS. 85? (2910). EGGS ON A DISH, BERCY (QEufs sur le Plat a la Bercy), Fry in a pan two or three sausages; pour the fat into a small egg dish (Fig. 567), leaving the sausages in the pan, then break four eggs into the dish. Pour over some melted butter, salt over the whites and cook in the range oven, leaving them in till they are glossy. Skin the sausages, cut them up and dress around the eggs, serving with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and tomato sauce (No. 549), reduced together and strained through a fine sieve. (2911). EGGS ON A DISH, BIENYENUE ((Eufs sur le Plat a la Bienvenne), Lay through a pocket on the inside edge of the basin of a dish a border made of potato croquette preparation (No. 2782) softened with an egg; fill the center of this border with a bed of duxelle or cooked fine herbs (No. 385); break over some raw eggs without injuring the yolks, season with salt and pepper, and put in the center of the yolks; dredge with grated Swiss cheese, pour on some butter and cook the eggs in a hot oven. Serve as soon as removed. (2912). EGGS ON A DISH, OONDJG ((Eufs sur le Plat a la Conde). Through a pocket provided with a channeled socket form a border of chicken quenelle force- meat (No. 89) and baking forcemeat (No. 81), well mixed together, laying it in the inside of the basin of the dish. Butter the bottom of this dish, season with salt and pepper, and break in a sufficiency of eggs without disturbing the yolks; strew the whites with duck's liver cut in one- eighth of an inch squares, and over the whole scatter grated parmesan cheese; pour on some butter and cook in a hot oven. Garnish around with three-quarters of an inch round chicken croquettes. (2913). EGGS ON A DISH, CREOLE STYLE ((Eufs sur le Plat a la Creole). Fry colorless in oil one tablespoonful of chopped onions, as much finely cut-up hot pepper, a quarter of a clove of crushed garlic and a peeled tomato cut in two, pressed out, then divided into small squares; simmer, reduce, and when of a sufficient consistency add two tablespoonfuls of cooked rice, salt and cayenne pepper. With this preparation cover the bottom of a dish fit for the oven; break over the eggs carefully, keeping the yolks entire, pour on melted butter, season with salt on the white of the eggs, and in the center of the yolk put a little pepper, and cook in a moderate oven. (2914). EGGS ON A DISH, ENGLISH STYLE ((Eufs sur le Plat a 1'Anglaise). Suppress the rind from some bacon, cut it up very thin and fry in butter without browning. Break some eggs into a buttered china egg dish (Fig. 567), season the whites with a little salt only, and the yolks with a little pepper placed in the center; cook in the oven, having more heat on top than on the bottom. Serve as soon as done, surrounded with the bacon. (2915). EGGS ON A DISH, FERMIERE ((Eufs sur le Plat a la Fermiere). Cut the gall from one chicken liver, mince the latter and put it into a pan with butter and a spoonful of chopped onions; season and cook, but not too quickly, while turning over; remove the liver with 'a skimmer and put one spoonful of chopped-up mushrooms into the pan; let the moisture reduce. Place this in the bottom of an egg dish, on this the liver, break two eggs over, season, pour over some melted butter and cook in the oven. (2916). EGGS ON A DISH, MONACO ((Eufs sur le Plat a la Monaco). Put into a sautoir one gill of tomato juice and a spoonful of melted glaze (No. 402); add a small bunch of aromatic herbs and tarragon leaves, reduce the liquid until it is the consistency of a syrup, then take out the herbs and pour the liquid into a large egg dish. Break six eggs in a dish, salt the whites, pour over some melted butter and cook in the oven until they become glossy. (2917). EGGS ON A DISH, OMER PACHA ((Eufs sur le Plat a la Omer Pacha). Melt a little butter on a dish that can go in the oven; when heated break in twelve eggs, ore beside the other, keeping the yolks whole; cook in a moderate oven for five to six minutes. Fry in butter two ounces of chopped onions and as much cut-up green peppers, add three gills of tomato sauce (No. 549) and half the quantity of half -glaze sauce (No. 413) and white wine; reduce, not having it too thick, then add bacon prepared by mincing unsmoked bacon; fry it in butter, moisten with gravy (No. 404) and Madeira wine, then cook and reduce the moistening entirely; pour this prepared sauce over the eggs or else serve in a separate sauce-boat. 858 THE EPICUREAN. (2918). EGGS ON A DISH, PLTJMEKEY ((Eufs sur le Plat a la Plumerey), Remove the whites from four eggs, keeping the yolks in their shells; mix with these whites half a gill of soubise (No. 723) and half a gill of tomato puree (No. 730); butter a dish plentifully and pour into it the white of eggs, soubise and tomato mixture. Lay the yolks over and cook in a slack oven, bestrewing the top with raw fine herbs. Between each yolk place a round croquette an inch in diameter, made of grated cooked ham mixed with bechamel sauce (No. 409). (2919). EGGS ON A DISH, EOSSINI ((Eufs sur le Plat a la Rossini). Butter the bottom of a dish, break on it four eggs, being careful to keep the yolks whole. Fry some fat chicken livers cut in escalops that have been seasoned and rolled in flour; garnish around the eggs with these. Cook the eggs in a moderate oven, cover the livers with Perigueux sauce (No. 517) and serve. (2920), EGGS ON A DISH, VENETIAN STYLE ((Eufs sur le Plat a la Vemtienne), Cut in dice pieces equal quantities of anchovy fillets, broiled and peeled sweet peppers from which the seeds have been removed and good sound tomatoes, scalded, peeled and the liquid squeezed out. Bestrew the bottom of an egg dish with these ingredients, pour over some oil and heat lightly. Break four eggs into the dish, season the whites, and cook in the oven; when removed lay the dish inside of another and serve. (2921). EGGS ON A DISH WITH BACON ((Eufs sur le Plat au Petit Butter the dish, break in the eggs without spoiling the yolks, season and set for an instant on the fire and finish cooking in the oven; surround with slices of broiled smoked bacon. (2922). EGGS ON A DISH WITH CEPES ((Eufs sur le Plat aux Oepes). Peel and chop up two or three cepes heads; melt some butter in a large egg dish, bestrew the bottom with chopped cepes and these with parsley; season and heat for two minutes. Break six eggs into this dish, and cook in the oven, having them glossy. Eggs can also be prepared with canned mushrooms. (2923). EGGS ON A DISH WITH CHOPPED HAM ((Eufs sur !e Plat au Jambon Hacha Butter the bottom of a small egg dish (Fig. 567), cover it with a layer of cooked and chopped lean ham and over this pour a little melted meat glaze (No. 402). Break four eggs into the dish, salt the whites, and cook in the range oven, letting them get glossy on top. They may also be prepared with boiled tongue instead of ham. (2924). EGGS ON A DISH WITH TOMATOES ((Eufs sur le Plat aux Tomates). Scald two small partly ripe tomatoes in order to remove the skins, divide each one in two, cut them up small, salt over and drain in a sieve; saute in butter and range them on the bottom of a small buttered egg dish (Fig. 567); break four eggs into this, salt the whites, scald the yolks and cook in the oven, glossing the tops. (2925). POACHED EGGS A LA BOELDIEU AND EGGS A LA BENEDICK ((Eufs Poke's a la Boeldieu et (Eufs a la Benedick). Poach two or three eggs; scald two tomatoes just sufficiently to be able to peel off the skins; drain and cut them in slices, then in dice; put the pieces in a pan with oil and saute" on a brisk fire until they have reduced their humidity without dissolving; season highly, and bestrew with chopped parsley. With these tomatoes fill two or three hollowed-out bread crusts (No. 52), and on each lay one of the poached eggs heated at the oven door, basting them over with good reduced veloute" sauce (No. 415); range these crusts on separate plates. Eggs it la Benedick. Cut some muffins in halves crosswise, toast them without allowing to brown, then place a round of cooked ham an eighth of an inch thick and of the same diameter as the muffins on each half. Heat in a moderate oven and put a poached egg on each toast. Cover the whole with Hollandaise sauce (No. 501). EG-G-S. 859 (2926). POACHED EGGS A LA BOUKGUIGtfONNE BAKED ((Eufs Poke's a la Bourguignoune au Gratin), Boil water in a saucepan; add salt and a dash of vinegar. Crack six very fresh eggs and drop them slowly in a deep dish, keeping them whole; slip them into the boiling water, and when done, and found to be of a proper consistency, remove them with a skimmer, and transfer to cold water; pare each one singly. Butter thoroughly a baking dish, bestrew it with bread-crumbs and then a layer of grated parmesan; pour over butter, and lay on the eggs; mask them with a well-seasoned bechamel sauce (No. 409), sprinkle with grated parmesan and butter, and bake in a hot oven. When done strew over some chopped fine herbs and squeeze over the juice of a lemon. (2927). POACHED EGGS A LA MIEABEAU ((Eufs Poch^s a la Mirabeau). Prepare a cooked foies-gras and cut seven or eight oval-shaped slices of the same dimensions as the poached eggs; pound the parings of liver with two pounded raw peeled truffles, season and add a spoonful of raw chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) and two egg-yolks; put this into a strong paper cornet and push it through to form a high string all around the upper edges of the slices of foies-gras. Kange these on a small raised baking sheet, having the bottom covered with a thin layer of half-glaze sauce (No. 413) reduced with Madeira wine; keep for two minutes in a slack oven to warm the liver and poach the forcemeat. Remove and dress in a circle on a dish, placing a poached egg on each one; heat at the oven door while basting over with good veloute sauce (No. 415). (2928). POACHED EGGS A LA VILLEEOI ((Eufs Poche"s a la Villeroi), Poach seven or eight eggs just sufficiently not to have the whites break; when refreshed, parea and well wiped, dip them one by one into a thick Villeroi sauce (No. 560); range as fast as they are done on a small baking sheet, slightly apart, and leave until the sauce hardens, then detach the eggs from the sheet, suppress the superfluous sauce, and roll them first in fresh bread-crumbs mingled with parmesan, then in beaten eggs; lastly plunge the eggs, one at a time, into plenty of hot frying fat to cook to a good color; drain and dress in a circle on a thin bed of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) poached on a dish to prevent the eggs from slipping off; surround each one with a string of consistent tomato puree (No. 730), mixed with bearnaise sauce (No. 433). Serve at once. (2929). POACHED EGGS A LA WEIGHT SANPOED ((Eufs Poch6s a la Wright Sanford). Blanch some straight thick vermicelli in boiling water for two minutes ; drain and return them to the saucepan, adding fresh mushrooms previously minced, washed, drained, fried in butter, and moistened with a little Madeira wine and half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and reduced; season, then dress the whole in the center of a dish, and garnish around with poached eggs (No. 2931). (2930). POACHED EGGS, MATELOTE ((Eufs Poches Matelote). Poach some eggs the same as for poached eggs with gravy (No. 2931); prepare and fry in clarified butter some oval crusts (No. 52) measuring two and a quarter by two and three-quarter inches. Cook in butter one minced onion, add to it a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and a clove of garlic and mushroom peelings; moisten with red wine and thicken with kneaded butter (No. 579); boil all slowly for half an hour, skim and pass it through a tammy; add small cooked mushroom heads and small glazed onions. Dress the eggs on the fried crusts; range them in a circle, and pour the garnishing in the center. (2931). POACHED EGGS WITH GRAVY ((Eufs Poch6s au Jus). The eggs must be very fresh and selected of uniform size. Only a few at a time can be poached. Boil some salted water acidulated with vinegar in a saucepan; quickly crack three or four eggs, one at a time, on the edge of the saucepan; open and drop them over the water exactly in the spot where it bubbles; with a small, deep, long-shaped skimmer gather the egg together, turning it incessantly, so that it assumes a long form, then remove the pan to the side of the fire 860 TTIE EPICUREAN. until the envelope of the yolk be sufficiently hardened not to break. The difficulty consists in giving the egg a sufficient solidity without allowing the yolks to harden, for these should remain perfectly mellow. As soon as each egg is done, lift it up delicately with the skimmer and drop it in a plentiful supply of cold water so that it hardens, then take it up very carefully, pare neatly, and return it at once into cold water. Just when ready to serve, warm the poached eggs, either in their own water that lias been strained through a sieve, or on a small baking tin, in a slack oven; dress them in a vegetable dish and baste over with clear gravy (No. 404) and serve. Poached eggs are also served simply on slices of toast, without any sauce whatever. (2932). POACHED EGGS WITH PUREE OF CHICKEN SUPKEME ((Eufs Poohfe a la Puree de Volatile Supreme). Poach eight eggs, the same as for those poached with gravy (No. 2931); prepare some croustades, either of bread or paste, and fill them half full with chicken puree (No. 713), having all very hot; lay on the well-drained poached eggs, thoroughly heated at the oven door, and cover with buttered supreme sauce (No. 547). They can also be prepared with a puree of mushrooms (No. 722), game (No. 716) or truffles (No. 731). (2933). POACHED EGGS WITH SPINACH ((Eufs Poche"s aux Epinards). After poaching the eggs the same as with gravy (No. 2931). dress them on a spinach garnish- ing, or else one of chicory (No. 729). (2934). SOEAMBLED EGGS A LA COLUMBUS ((Eufs Bromine's a la Colombus), After the eggs are nearly done mix in with them some cooked lean quarter-inch squares of ham; cut some slices of raw blood pudding (No. 1772), fry them in butter over a brisk fire, then arrange them on a baking sheet and allow to cool off; bread-crumb and dip in egg, then fry to a fine color. FIG. 569. Also saute some slices of beef brains over a quick fire. Dress the scrambled eggs, putting half the preparation on a dish and the brains in the center; cover these with the remainder of the eggs and surround with the fried slices of black pudding. Garnish the top with very thin half slices of sausage. (2935). SCRAMBLED EGGS A LA DUXELLE AND WITH ANCHOVY CROUSTADES ((Eufs Brouille's a la Duxelle et aux Croustades d'Anchois). Fry in butter some chopped onions, shallots and mushrooms; mix with these a little reduced veloute sauce (No. 415). Break five or six eggs in a bowl, season, beat lightly and pour them into a saucepan, having previously buttered the bottom with one ounce of fresh butter; beat them over a slow fire with a whisk until they begin to thicken, then use a spoon, and work till smooth, incorporating about an ounce and a half more butter divided in small pats; season and throw in the fine herbs and some chopped parsley; finish with a little raw cream so as to keep them mellow. In case the eggs have to wait, then put the saucepan in a bain- marie having the water only tepid, and continue beating with the spoon. Dress the eggs in a vegetable or any deep dish, smooth the top and drop over some tomatoed half-glaze; surround with small hollow round crusts (No. 52) filled with reduced bechamel sauce (No. 409), finished with anchovy pur6e and a halved anchovy dressed in a ring the size of the opening on the croustade, the anchovy to be filled through a cornet with cold bearnaise sauce (No. 433), having lobster coral sprinkled over the top. EGJ-GfS. 861 (2936). SOEAMBLED EGGS A LA JEROME ((Eufs Brouille's a la Jerome.) Cook some eggs the same as for scrambled with gravy (No. 2940), mixing in when nearly dene a salpicon either of partridge, woodcock or any other seasonable game cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares; dress, pour around the sauce and garnish with the stuffed eggs. For the Sauce. Prepare a game fumet (No. 397) with the fragments of game, reducing it with espagnole sauce (No. 414). Stuffed Eggs. Have hard-boiled eggs prepared as follows: Boil some eggs for ten minutes, throw in cold water, shell and remove the white from the pointed ends only with a tin tube half an inch in diameter; empty out the interiors with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) and pound this with well seasoned bearnaise sauce (No. 433), mixing in chopped-up mushrooms; fill and re-form the eggs with this stuffing, roll in flour, then in beaten eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color. (2937), SCRAMBLED EGGS A LA MARTINEZ ((Eufs Brouille's a la Martinez). Broil four sweet Spanish peppers, selected with meaty and plump insides; suppress their skins by rubbing with a cloth, then divide each one in two; fry in butter and oil, half of each, season with salt, drain off the fat, and mix in a little meat glaze (No. 402) and chopped parsley. Scramble eight eggs, thickening over a slow fire, and when almost done mingle in some artichoke bottoms cut in quarter-inch squares, and fried in butter, and some cooked ham cut in three-six- teenths of an inch squares. Dress the whole in a vegetable dish, smooth the surface dome-shaped and pour around tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze sauce (No. 413), mixed. Arrange the pep- pers in a circle, one overlapping the other, and serve the remainder of the sauce separately. (2938). SCRAMBLED EGGS IN A RISOT BORDER WITH DUCKS' LIVERS ((Eufs BrouU14?. en Bordure de Risot aux Foies de Canard). Make a risot (No. 739), mixing in with it some cooked ducks' livers cut in quarter-inch squares. Butter a plain, round-top border mold (Fig. 138), fill it with the risot, pressing it firmly; keep warm and unmold just when ready to serve. Fill the center with scrambled eggs (No. 2940), mixing lu some chopped truffles. Garnish around the eggs with small escalops of f oies-gras rolled in Madeira sauce (No. 492). (2939). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH PINE HERBS ((Eufs Brouille's aux Pines Herbes). Have some eggs scrambled the same as with gravy (No. 2940); to avoid having lumps in them they should not be cooked excessively, and above all be well stirred; mix in one tablespoonful altogether of chopped parsley, chives and chervil. Should it be necessary to keep them any length of time before serving, then add a little good veloute sauce (No. 415). Surround with puff paste crescents baked in a slack oven. (2940). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH GRAVY ((Eufs Brouille's au Jus). Break six eggs in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a gill of cream or milk, and season with salt and pepper. Lay the saucepan containing the eggs on a slow fire and stir by beating vigorously with a small wire whip (Fig. 154); as soon as they attain a consistency, remove the sauce- pan from the fire and continue the same process for two minutes longer; when finished pour it oui on a dish and surround by bread croQtons (No. 51) fried in clarified butter. Throw over some reduced clear gravy (No. 404), mixing a little meat glaze (No. 402) into it. (2941). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH LOBSTER, GARNISHED WITH VILLEROI OYSTERS ((Eufs Brouilles aux Homards, Garnis d'Huitres a la Villeroi). Add to some nearly finished scrambled eggs, prepared the same as for gravy (No. 2940), a salpicon of lobster cut in three-sixteenths of an inch dice. Dress the eggs when finished, smooth the surface and garnish around with Villeroi oysters (No. 698), or else mussels or scallops. The lobster salpicon can be replaced by one of shrimps or of crabs. (2942). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS ((Eufs Brouille's aux Champignons). Prepare the scrambled eggs the same as with gravy (No. 2940); when almost done mix in a salpicon of mushrooms cut in quarter-inch squares; dress and pour around a little Madeira sauce (No. 492) and surround with croutons of bread fried in butter (No. 51). 862 THE EPICUREAN. (2943). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SWEETBREADS ((Eufs Brouille* aux Ris de Veau). Braise some sweetbreads and then put them under a weight to cool; cut them up in quarter- inch squares and warm in butter. Prepare some scrambled eggs the same as with gravy (No. 2940) and when nearly done add the sweetbreads and mix them in with the eggs. Dress on the center of a dish, pour around a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and surround with half-heart croutons (small) of bread fried in butter (No. 51). The sweetbreads may be replaced either by unsmoked salted tongue, ham, or even thin pieces of smoked beef or squares of bacon fried in butter. (2944). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SWISS AND PARMESAN CHEESE (GBufs Brouille"s au Fromage de Gruyere et au Parmesan). Beat eight eggs lightly in a bowl, pour them into a saucepan having its bottom buttered with two ounces of fresh butter; season and thicken on a slow fire while beating unceasingly, and as soon as cooked incorporate an ounce of butter and two of grated parmesan. Remove it from the fire and then pour in a little good veloute sauce (No. 415) and raw cream; finish with a few spoon- fuls of Swiss cheese cut in dice and softened in cold milk. Dress the preparation in a deep dish and surround with puff -paste crescents. Scrambled eggs may be prepared with the Swiss cheese or with grated parmesan, mixing in three ounces of either. Surround with triangle-shaped bread croutons fried in butter (No. 51). (2945). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TOMATO PUREE ((Eufs Brouillfc a la PurSe de Tomates). Select two or three good tomatoes; put them beside each other in a wire basket and plunge into boiling water for two minutes simply to scald and remove the skins; drain off and press through a sieve; should the puree be too thin put it on a hair sieve to drain, then warm and season it. Scram- ble seven or eight eggs in a saucepan the same as for scrambled with gravy (No. 2940); when properly thickened remove and mix in the prepared puree; pour the whole into a deep dish. Sprinkle over with half-glaze (No. 400), using a brush, and surround with bread croutons (No. 51). (2946). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TOMATOES AND CHIVES ((Eufs Broufflfe aux Tomates et a la Oiboulette), Scald some tomatoes, peel and cut across in two, then into squares, and saute in butter; add them to the scrambled eggs when nearly done, also some finely cut-up chives (see scrambled eggs with gravy, No. 2940). (2947). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH PERIGOSD TRUFFLES ((Eufs Brouille's aux Truffes du Pe"rigord). Cut two ounces of Perigord truffles into three-sixteenths inch squares, after they have been peeled and cooked with salt and Madeira wine; put this salpicon with a little melted meat-glaze (No. 402) into a small saucepan and set it in a bain-marie. Break four eggs in a bowl, season and beat to mix well, then pour them through a fine strainer into a saucepan, having its bottom cov- ered with half an ounce of butter; put the saucepan on a slow fire and thicken the eggs while beating steadily with a small tinned wire whip. When almost done remove from the fire and mix in slowly about half an ounce of butter broken up small, finishing with a few spoonfuls of raw cream; add the truffles and dress in a vegetable or any other deep dish. (2948). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH PIEDMONT TRUFFLES ((Eufs Brouille's aux Truffes du Pie"mont). Prepare the scrambled eggs the same as for No. 2940, only salting them less; mix with them two spoonfuls of grated parmesan. Have two ounces of white truffles cut up into thin fillets; put the eggs in a souffl6 pan (Fig. 182), make a hole in the center and in it place the truffles; pour some barely melted butter over, and on top place anchovy fillets. Cover the whole with the eggs so that the truffles are inclosed in the center; set this pan in a slack oven for a few moments and serve at once- EG-G-S. 863 (2949). SOFT EGGS A LA OHIPOLATA (ffiufs Mollets a la OMpolata). As for poached eggs these must be of the freshest so as to have them well shaped, all of the same size, while cooking. Partly fresh eggs form into cavities when taken from their shells, giving them an ungainly appearance. Put the eggs into a strainer and plunge this into boiling FIG. 570. water; cover the vessel and allow the liquid to boil steadily for five minutes, should the eggs be large; leave them for thirty seconds in their water off the fire; then remove them from the strainer, and plunge into cold water for twelve to fifteen minutes before breaking off their shells; remove these, then return them to the cold water. Just when ready to serve heat them in salted water that must not boil; drain and dress them on hollow crusts (No. 52) and garnish around with a Chipolata garnishing (No. 657). (2950). SOPT EGGS FOE EPIOUEES (ffiufs Mollets des Gourmets). Fry in clarified butter some hollowed crusts the shape of an egg (No. 52), having one for each; line the interiors with a bed of foies-gras puree, and range a hot soft egg over. Pour into a sauce- pan some tomato puree (No. 730), strained through a fine sieve, and incorporate, beating it in, some lobster butter (No. 580), a dash of tarragon vinegar, and a little shallot cut in one-eighth of an inch squares, and blanched. Dress the crusts (Fig. 570), and pour the sauce over. (2951). SOFT EGGS WITH PUEEE OF SOEEEL ((Eufs Mollets a la PurSe d'Oseille). Prepare a puree of sorrel garnishing (No. 728), finish it with a little half -glaze (No. 400), butter it well, and dress in a vegetable dish; smooth the surface, and on it arrange six soft eggs, prepared as explained in No. 2949. Baste the sorrel with half-glaze applied with a brush. ADDITIONAL RECIPES. UFarineux). (2952). EIOE OEOQTJETTES WITH SALPIOON (Croquettes de Eiz au Salpicon). Pick and wash half a pound of rice; blanch, drain and refresh; place it in a saucepan to moisten with broth (No. 194a) to three times its height; add a quarter of a pound of butter and a seasoning of salt, pepper and nutmeg. When the rice is sufficiently cooked (in twenty or thirty minutes), mix into it a salpicon weighing a quarter of a pound, composed of tongue, truffles, chicken, game and mushrooms all to be mixed evenly after cutting in three-sixteenths of an inch squares. Leave this stand till cold, then form into round, flat, oval or oblong croquettes; dip in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs, and fry to a fine color. Dress on a folded napkin with fried parsley on top. (2953). FEDELINI VEEMIOELLINI ATT CARDINAL (Fedelini VermiceUini au Cardinal). Have half a pound of small, straight vermicelli, one-sixteenth of an inch in diameter. Begin by plunging it in au abundance of boiling salted water for about three minutes, then drain and put it back in a saucepan with four ounces of butter divided in small lumps, and two ounces of grated parmesan, adding salt, pepper, nutmeg, bechamel sauce (No. 409), four ounces of minced mushrooms, two ounces of crawfish butter (No. 573;. Have two ounces of truffles sliced sufficiently large, and an eighth of an inch thick, then fried in butter, drained and rolled in meat glaze (No. 402). Alternate the fedelini in a vegetable dish witii layers of minced truffles, covering each one with grated parmesan; bestrew the top with bread-crumbs and grated cheese, pour butter over, and brown in a hot oven, or under a salamander (Fig. 123). (2954). FONDUE WITH PIEDMONTESE TEUPFLES (Fondue aux Truffes du Pi&nont), Take a pound of soft, fresh Swiss cheese and cut it up into quarter-inch squares. Break twelve egg-yolks in a bowl with two tablespoonfuls of flour; mix well together and dilute with a pint of cream, then strain through a sieve. Put the cheese into a saucepan on a slow fire with two tablespoonfuls of milk, stir it about with a spoon until it no longer forms into strings, then pour in the prepared yolks. Heat all on the fire, stirring with a spoon until it assumes the consistency of a cream (but it must not boil), then add a little butter and peeled and finely minced Pied- montese truffles. Pour the whole into a deep dish and dredge the top with finely chopped truffles. (2955). GNOOQUIS (Gnocquis). Put into a saucepan two gills of water, adding an ounce of butter, salt and pepper; let come to a boil, then put in a quarter of a pound of flour and an ounce and a half of grated cheese; stir the preparation for two minutes on the fire and beat in quickly three eggs, one after the other. Dredge the table with flour, pour the paste on it, divide it into small bits and rolling each one out into a string on the table, cut them so as to obtain three-eighths of an inch in diameter balls, and poach these for five minutes in boiling milk. Put an ounce of butter into a saucepan, fill it with flour and moisten with the milk the gnocquis were boiled in, then add grated parmesan cheese and the gnocquis, stir well, heat the gnocquis thoroughly and serve. Gnocquis can also be made with semolina, also with chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89) added to the same weight of cream cake paste (No. 132). (2956). GNOOQUIS, EOMAN STYLE (Gnocquis a la Eomaine). Range a pound of sifted flour in a ring, form a hollow in the center and in it put salt, two ounces of butter, four ounces of mashed potatoes passed through a fine sieve, and a little hot water. Make a firm paste and divide it into small pieces to form three-fourths of an inch diameter balls; press them on a grater, throw into boiling water for fifteen minutes, then drain and serve in a soup tureen in layers alternated with parmesan cheese; pour over hazel-nut butter (No. 567) and some gravy (No. 404) reduced with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and tomato puree (No. 730). (865) 866 THE EPICUREAN. (2957). LAZAGNETTES, PHILADELPHIA STYLE (Lazagnettes a la Philadelphia), Blanch half a pound of lazagnettes. (These are thin bands of paste three-sixteenths of an inch wide.) Drain and put them in a saucepan to cover with some broth (No. 194a); boil and reduce this to almost nothing, then add four ounces of cooked lean ham and eight ounces of mushrooms, both to be cut in small three-sixteenths inch squares; dish in separate layers of lazag- nettes and parmesan and cover with thin bechamel sauce (No. 409), into which have mixed meat- glaze (No. 402) and tomato sauce (No. 549). (2958). MACARONI A LA BRIGNOLI (Macaroni a la Brignoli). Braise a piece of beef by placing it in a saucepan lined with bards of fat pork, onions, carrots and a bunch of parsley; moisten with a pint of broth (No. 194a) and let fall to a glaze, then re- moisten and let fall once more to a glaze; pour in sufficient broth and white wine to reach to the height of the meat. Cook for four hours in a slack oven, strain, skim off the fat and mingle into the sauce a third as much tomato puree (No. 730). Boil some macaroni in salted water for twelve to fifteen minutes, drain and put it in a saucepan with a pint of gravy (No. 404); when this is absorbed dress two-thirds of the macaroni in layers with grated parmesan between; form a hollow in the center and in it arrange sliced truffles previously cooked in a sautoir with cocks'-combs and minced mushrooms, having them simmered with a little tomato sauce (No. 549) and half-glaze (No. 400). Cover over with more macaroni and grated parmesan, pour on a part of the prepared stock and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat. (2959). MACARONI BAKED (Macaroni an Gratin). Dress the macaroni, cooked as for the Parisian (No. 2961), in a buttered and bread-crumbed dish; smooth the top neatly, strew with bread-raspings and butter, and bake in a hot oven. (2960). MACARONI, NEAPOLITAN STYLE (Macaroni a la Mode de Naples). Line a saucepan with sliced carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and on top lay a three-pound piece of rumps of beef. Into this make three holes some dis- tance apart from each other, and each an inch in diameter; in one place some grated fat pork, in the other a little garlic and in the third hard egg, chopped and seasoned with salt, pepper and parsley. Put the meat into the saucepan with some fat, and color it on a slow fire or in the oven. Around lay a few boned calves' feet, moisten with two bottles of wine, one red and one white, and a quart of broth (No. 194a); when the beef is half -cooked, add twelve tomatoes cut in two and pressed out, and a pint of espagnole sauce (No. 414); cover the saucepan, paste on the lid with a paste made of flour and water and push it into a moderate oven for six hours; remove, skim off the fat and strain the stock. Cook a pound and a half of macaroni three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter in salted boiling water from twelve to fifteen minutes; when sufficiently done drain and range it in a large vegetable dish or soup tureen in separate layers of macaroni and grated cheese. Baste over with the beef stock and continue until it is all used, and when ready to serve stir well and send to the table, using the meat only for stock. (2961). MACARONI, PARISIAN STYLE (Macaroni a la Parisienne). Boil a pound of macaroni in salted water from twelve to fifteen minutes, putting it in only when the water boils. Avoid breaking it for it can always be cut the desired length after cooking. When cooked drain and return it to the saucepan, season with a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and add half parmesan and half Swiss cheese, finishing with a little bechamel sauce (No. 409) and a large piece of butter. Toss in the saucepan, without using a spoon, and when well mingled and the cheese forms into threads then it is done. Pour it into a vegetable dish and serve. (2962). MACARONI WITH CREAM AND TRUFPLES (Macaroni a la Creme aux Truffes). After cooking and blanching the macaroni the same as for the Parisian, drain and lay it in a saucepan to season with salt and nutmeg; add a pint of cream and let simmer until this is re- duced, then transfer it to a vegetable dish in layers, alternating each one with grated parmesan and some finely shredded truffles, finishing with the chopped truffles. Pour over melted butter and serve. FARINACEOUS. 867 (2963). MACARONI WITH GAME PTJEEE (Macaroni a la Puree de Gibier). Pound the meats of a cooked partridge, free of skin or bones; add to it six ounces of butter and six gills of meat gravy, prepared the same as in No. 2960. Blanch the macaroni for twelve minutes, drain and dress it in layers macaroni, grated parmesan and game puree. Serve separately a half -glaze sauce (No. 413) with essence of game (No. 389). (2964). MACAKONI MEZZANI GEANDI A LA CAVALLOTTI (Macaroni Mezzani Grandi a la Oavallotti). Boil half a pound of this macaroni, which is a quarter of an inch in diameter. Chop up separately some cooked lean ham, some cooked cold chicken fillets and livers, mushrooms and truffles; place these ingredients in a saucepan with reduced gravy (No. 404) and finish with a few spoonfuls of tomato sauce (No. 549); keep this preparation in a bain-marie (Fig. 122). After the macaroni is cooked, drain and return it to the saucepan to mix in a gill of rich gravy; boil while stirring at times and when the gravy is all absorbed add two ounces of butter divided in small pats, also two ounces of grated parmesan. Dress the macaroni in a vegetable dish and spread a part of the sauce over; strew with parmesan, pour a little hazel-nut butter (No. 567) over and serve very hot, with the remaining gravy in a sauce-boat. (2965). MAOAEONNIOELLI A LA LTJOINI (Macaronnicelli a la Lucini). Boil a pound of macaronnicelli; drain and put it in a sautoir with half a pound of butter. Cut five peeled tomatoes crosswise in two; press them well and fry in butter over a brisk fire, keep- ing them very whole. Grate half a pound of Swiss and parmesan cheese, half of each. Chop up a medium onion, fry it in butter with four ounces of cooked lean ham and as much bacon, both cut in three-sixteenths inch squares; drain off the butter and replace it by espagnole sauce (No. 414) and meat gravy; let cook for fifteen minutes, then dress the macaronnicelli in a vegetable dish, alternating each layer with one of the grated cheese; cover the surface with the halved tomatoes and pour the sauce over the whole. (2966). SPAGHETTI MAOAEONI A LA LAUEENCE (Macaroni Spaghetti a la Laurence). Cook the spaghetti in boiling water for ten minutes; drain and finish in some veal blond (No. 423) in such a way that when the paste is cooked the moistening will be entirely reduced, then dress it in a vegetable dish intercalated with layers of grated parmesan. Serve the following sauce sepa- rately: Chop up two ounces of onions, fry it in butter with six ounces of minced ham, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, mignonette, an uncrushed clove of garlic, six halved and well-pressed-out tomatoes, melted meat glaze (No. 402) and espagnole sauce (No. 414); boil together for fifteen minutes, then strain through a tammy and pour in a sauce-tureen to serve at the same time as the macaroni. (2967). SPAGHETTI MAOAEONI A LA PEATI (Macaroni Spaghetti a la Prati). Take half a pound of cold braised sweetbread escalops, one inch in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, and a quarter of a pound of cooked lean ham cut the same size and shape; ~ry both lightly in butter and moisten with some gravy (No. 404), espagnole sauce (No. 414) and Madeira wine; add two ounces of salted unsmoked tongue and one ounce of truffles. Blanch a pound of spaghetti in salted water for ten minutes, drain and put it back in the saucepan with melted glaze (No. 402), butter and a little of the gravy from the above stew; simmer and when finished cooking incorporate four ounces of grated parmesan; arrange two-thirds of this spaghetti in a circle on a dish, pour the stew in the center and cover with the remainder of the spaghetti. (2968). SPAGHETTI MAOAEONI, QUEEN STYLE (Macaroni Spaghetti a la Eeine). Plunge one pound of spaghetti into boiling salted water, and when cooked drain in a colander without refreshing; return it to the saucepan with some chicken puree prepared as follows: Pound some roast chicken meat to a pulp with a pint of bechamel (No. 409); rub it through a sieve and put it in the saucepan with the spaghetti, adding salt, prepared red pepper (No. 168), nutmeg and meat glaze (No. 402). When thoroughly mixed incorporate slowly some butter and grated Darmesfm. Dress in a vegetable dish, scatter fine fillets of tongue and truffles over and pour on some clear half-glaze (No. 400). 868 THE EPICUREAN. (2969). SPAGHETTI MACARONI, SALVINI (Macaroni Spaghetti a la Salvini). Cook in boiling and slightly salted water one pound of spaghetti macaroni, having it boil for twelve to fifteen minutes; drain and dress it in layers in a large vegetable dish or soup tureen, beginning with a layer of the macaroni; strew this with grated parmesan, and continue till finished. Baste over with beef gravy prepared as follows, and serve very hot: Take three pounds of rump of beef. Select a saucepan rather larger than the piece of beef, cover its bottom with bards of fat pork and sliced onions, having sufficient to conceal the bottom; lay in the meat, salt and pepper over, add a clove of garlic and a garnished bunch of parsley, cover the saucepan, put it on the fire and let fall to a glaze. When the meat is browned have two ounces of extract of tomatoes dis- solved in a quart of broth (No. 194a), and add a spoonful at a time to the saucepan until the onions are well melted, then continue adding the remainder of the tomatoes and another quart of broth; cook the whole slowly for six hours. (2970). NOODLES A LA LAUER (Nouilles k la Lauer). Mince fine one pound of noodle paste (No. 142), rolled out to a sixteenth of an inch in thick- ness; cook it in boiling water for a few moments, then drain; add to it salt, pepper, nutmeg, six ounces of butter, and four ounces of grated parmesan, also a little bechamel sauce (No. 409); mix all together and serve. (2971). NOODLES, BAKED (Nouilles au Gratin). Butter a baking dish, lay in the same preparation as for Lauer (No. 2970), smooth nicely, and dredge over with bread-crumbs and grated parmesan; pour on melted butter, brown in a hot oven and serve. (2972). NOODLES SAUTED IN BUTTEK (Nouilles Sautes au BeurreX Blanched noodles can be sauted in butter, drained and seasoned with salt and pepper, then slightly browned in the oven. (2973). NOODLES WITH TRIED BREAD-CRUMBS (Nouilles a la Mie de Pain Trite). Prepare the noodles as for the Lauer (No. 2970), but instead of using six ounces of butter, have only two, and finish precisely the same. Fry a handful of bread-crumbs in butter, and when a fine color throw over the dressed noodles. It is then ready to serve. (2974). POLENTA (Polenta), A dried and crushed corn resembling semolina. Have a quart of water boiling in a saucepan, drop in like rain one pound and a half of polenta; boil for a few moments, adding a little salt and three ounces of butter, then stir in briskly a little grated parmesan. When cooked, pour it into mousseline molds (No. 2, Fig. 138), previously coated with meat glaze (No. 402); when the polenta is hard, unmold, or else have the molds buttered, and when the polenta is thoroughly cold unmold and cut each one into slices; spread a little melted butter and grated parmesan between each, then restore them to their respective positions; remold and place in the oven for twenty-five to thirty minutes, chen unmold and serve with a cream sauce (No. 454). (2975). RAMEKINS (Ramequins). Pour a pint of milk into a saucepan, add to it five ounces of butter, and when this boils re- move it from the fire, and stir in twelve ounces of flour; beat and dry it on the fire. Kemove the saucepan from the range and then incorporate five more ounces of butter, also five ounces of grated parmesan, six whole eggs and two yolks, a pinch of pepper, two heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar and eight ounces of Swiss cheese, cut in quarter-inch squares; mix the whole well together, adding a little whipped cream. Have this past*? the consistency of a pate-a-chou, then drop it with a round spoon on a buttered pan into balls measuring an inch and a quarter in diameter; egg them over and decorate each ramekin with thin slices of Swiss cheese put on in form of a rosette. Cook in a medium oven. As soon as done take them out and detach from the pan to dress and serve at once on a folded napkin. FARINACEOUS. 869 (2976). EAVIOLES A LA BELLINI (Kavioles a la Bellini). Prepare some ravioles as explained in No. 158. After being blanched and drained put them in a saucepan and cover with broth (No. 194a); cook for a few minutes, then drain and dress in layers in a vegetable dish, alterating each one with grated parmesan; pour over some thickened gravy (No. 405), mixed with meat glaze (No. 402) and tomato puree (No. 730), then serve. Ravioles can also be prepared the same way, and when drained and placed in the vegetable dish pour over some melted butter, strew over grated parmesan and bake in a moderate oven for a few minutes. (2977). KIOE A LA MANHATTAN-LEAN (Eiz au Maigre a la Manhattan). Chop up two ounces of onion ; fry it in butter, add a pound of rice and heat both together. When exceedingly hot moisten to three times its height (the rice one-third and the moistening two-thirds) with broth (No. 194a); let boil and cook in a slack oven for twenty minutes. Incorpo- rate with the rice, when done, six ounces of grated parmesan. Pour two-thirds of this into a casserole or vegetable dish; make a hole in the center and fill it with shelled crawfish tails or shrimps and poached oysters, after removing their muscles, or else with mussels and minced mushroons; pour over lean veloute sauce (No. 416) reduced with essence of mushrooms (No. 392) and chicken glaze (No. 398); mix well and cover the whole with the remainder of the rice; put in a hot oven for fifteen minutes and serve. (2978). KIOE, ORIENTAL STYLE (Eiz a 1'Orientale). Wash well and drain one pound of rice, place it in a saucepan with three quarts of boiling water, cover and push it into the oven ; when the rice is dry and sufficiently done pour it on a sieve. Put three-quarters of a pound of clarified butter cooked to hazel-nut (No. 567) in a sauce- pan, add to it the drained rice and cover with a wet cloth; place the lid on the saucepan to close it hermetically, then set it in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Serve the rice in a vegetable dish. (2979). EISOT A LA FEANOATELLI (Kisot a la Prancatelli). Chop up a two-ounce onion, fry it colorless in butter and add one pound of Piedmont rice, a few slices of raw smoked ham and six small chipolata sausages; moisten to double the height of the rice with broth (No. 194a), boil, put on the lid and place the saucepan in the oven for twenty minutes, then remove the ham and sausages, and incorporate four ounces of hazel-nut butter (No. 567), four ounces of grated parmesan and a very little salt and prepared red pepper (No. 168). Put two-thirds of this risot into a vegetable dish; garnish the top with a circle of escalops of sweetbreads fried in butter, and the center with the sausages, having suppressed the skin and cut them into slices; cover with the remainder of the risot. Serve separately a very thick rich sauce, into which mix some tomato paste and a little espagnole sauce (No. 414). (2980). EISOT A LA EISTOEI (Eisot a la Eistori). Prepare a risot the same as with Piedmontese truffles (No. 2981); dress half of it in a casserole or vegetable dish so as to cover the bottom and sides; in the center place a garnishing of cocks'-combs and kidneys, escaloped duck's liver and sliced truffles; cover this garnishing with espagnole sauce (No. 414) reduced with Marsala wine; mask with the remainder of the risot and this with peeled halved tomatoes pressed out and fried in oil, keeping them as whole as possible. Serve apart a little clear gravy (No. 404) and grated parmesan. (2981). EISOT WITH PIEDMONTESE TEUFTLES (Eisot aux Truffes du Pi6mont). Put six ounces of butter in a saucepan; when it begins to heat add to it two ounces of chopped onion and fry for a moment, then put in a pound of unwashed but well-picked rice. When this becomes quite hot moisten to double its height with broth (No. 194a), and cook very slowly while covered for twenty minutes. When done add six ounces of butter in small lumps, and four ounces of grated parmesan, stirring them in with a large carving fork, also two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze (No. 402) or chicken glaze (No. 398). Range the risot in a casserole or vegetable dish, cover the top with two ounces of fresh white Piedmont truffles, warmed in a little butter. Serve a clear gravy (No. 404) at the same time. 870 THE EPICUREAN. (2982). SOUFFLE, OKEAMY, WITH CHEESE (SoufflS Oremeux au Fromage), Place twelve raw egg-yolks into a saucepan; beat them with half a pound of partly melted butter, season with pepper and nutmeg and stir the preparation on a slow fire the same as a cream, so that it thickens, without ceasing to stir, and without letting it boil; when done remove from the fire and stir in three-quarters of a pound of grated Swiss and parmesan cheese (the prepara- tion should remain mellow); add to it first five beaten egg-whites, mixing thoroughly but gently, and then two or three spoonfuls of whipped cream. Pour this preparation in a souffle pan (Fig, 182), lay it on a small baking sheet and cook it from eighteen to twenty minutes in a slack oven. Strew over grated parmesan before removing and serve at once. (2983). SOUFFLE WITH PARMESAN CHEESE (Souffl^ ait Fromage Parmesan). Have a gill of water in a saucepan, with two ounces of butter, a pinch of sugar, some whole peppers and salt; let the liquid boil, then remove and stir in a quarter of a pound of flour; thicken the paste by beating it vigorously over a slow fire until it detaches from the saucepan: pour it into a basin and let get partly cold while stirring about with a spoon. Incorporate six or seven egg-yolks, a quarter of a pound of grated parmesan and two ounces of butter divided in small pats, adding them all very slowly without ceasing to stir. At the last moment work in five beaten- up egg-whites, and lastly two or three spoonfuls of good whipped cream. With this preparation fill a buttered souffle pan (Fig. 182) two-thirds full, lay it on a small baking sheet and cook for twenty-five minutes in a slow oven. This quantity is sufficient for eight persons. (2984), SOUFFLE WITH SWISS CHEESE (SoufflS au Fromage de Gruyere). Put a quarter of a pound of flour into a saucepan with two ounces of fecula, two ounces of butter, five ounces of grated cheese, having half Swiss and half parmesan, a pinch of pepper and some sugar; dilute slowly with a pint and a half of good milk, and stir the preparation on a slow fire to thicken; let it dry on a very low fire until it detaches from the saucepan, then remove and let get partly cold. Now incorporate a piece of butter and six or seven egg-yolks; heat it for two minutes on a slow fire without ceasing to stir. At the last moment incorporate into the preparation five or six egg-whites beaten to a froth, and a quarter of a pound of fresh Swiss cheese cut in small dice. Pour the whole into a buttered souffle pan (Fig. 182) and lay it on a small baking sheet; place it in the oven to cook for twenty-five minutes. (2985). SOUFFLE'S WITH swiss AND PARMESAN CHEESE-IN OASES (Souffle's en Caisses au Fromage de Gruyere et au Fromage Parmesan). Melt five ounces of butter in a saucepan; to it add seven raw egg-yolks; set the saucepan on the fire, and stir the preparation until it begins to thicken, then put in five ounces of parmesan cheese, and five ounces of Swiss cheese, half a teaspoonful of black pepper, a little salt, a pinch of sugar, and two beaten egg-whites, mixed in after the preparation has lost its first heat. Twenty minutes before serving incorporate five very firmly beaten whites, and use this to fill round but tered cases (Fig. 439) stiffened in the oven; cook the souffles in a slack oven; serve promptly. (2986). TAGLIATELLI IN CKOUSTADE (Tagliatelli en Croustade). Cook half a pound of tagliarelli (small thin bands of paste three-sixteenths of an inch wide) in salted water for a few moments; drain and put them into a sautoir to season with salt, pepper and nutmeg; add a little bechamel (No. 409), fresh butter, grated cheese and four raw egg-yolks. Butter and line a mold or ring eight inches in diameter and an inch and a half in height; fill it with the preparation, dredge the top with fresh bread-crumbs, besprinkle with butter and cook in a moderate oven; when the paste is done slip the croustade on a round dish and serve with a separate tomato sauce (No. 549) mingled with meat glaze (No. 402) and veloute (No. 415). (2987). TIMBALE OF GNOCQUIS, A LA CHOISEUL (Timbale de Gnocquis a la Choiseul), Prepare a paste with a pint of milk boiled with a quarter of a pound of butter; remove it at the first boil and put in a half pound of sifted flour; prepare as a pate-a-chou (No. 132); boil for a few moments on the fire, then incorporate fourteen eggs, salt and four ounces of grated FARIJSTACEOUS. 871 parmesan. Turn this paste over on the table and finish with sufficient flour to have it firm and solid, then roll it out into thin strings a quarter of an inch in width, and divide these into quarter- inch lengths; roll each one to the shape of a ball and plunge them into boiling water to poach for three minutes, then drain and lay them in a saucepan with grated Swiss cheese and bechamel sauce (No. 409). Line a timbale mold with thin foundation paste (No. 135), pour in the gnoquis and wet the inside upper edge; cover the timbale with a flat of the same paste, attach the edges solidly together and cook for one hour in a medium oven, remove, unmold and serve at once, dressed on a dish, with a little buttered veloute sauce (No. 415) served separately. (2988). TIMBALE MILANESE OP MACAEONI OE NOODLES (Timbale de Macaroni on de Nouilles, Milanaise). Butter the interior of a* timbale mold; decorate the sides with slightly sweetened noodle paste (No. 142); moisten the decorations and line the whole with foundation paste (No. 135). Cut the bottom with a three-inch pastry cutter, but do not remove this round piece. Blanch some macaroni in water, 'drain and finish cooking in broth (No. 194a), drain once more, then cut it into three-inch lengths; season with a very little salt, pepper, grated parmesan and a liberal piece of butter. Fill the timbale with this macaroni, leaving a hollow in the center Fre. 571. to be filled with a garnishing composed of truffles, foies-gras, game quenelles, unsmoked red beef tongue and mushrooms, all cut an eighth of an inch thick and three quarters of an inch long; these ingredients to be mingled with half -glaze (No. 409) made of essence of game (No. 389). Close the timbale with a cover of the same paste and cook in a moderate oven. A timbale containing two quarts will require an hour and a half to cook properly; invert it immediately on a dish, remove the round that was cut, replace it and serve. Instead of macaroni, noodles or lazag-nettes may be substituted, proceeding precisely the same. Send at the same time with the timbale beef a-la- mode gravy, with tomato pulp, little meat glaze (No. 402) and brown sauce (No. 414). (2989). TIMBALE OP NOODLES A LA PEAESALL (Timbale de Nouilles a la Pearsall). Make some noodle paste the same as for No. 142; roll it out a sixteenth of an inch thick and leave it dry slightly, then cut into very thin fillets and cook these in salted water for one minute; drain and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add six egg-yolks, a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pound of parmesan cheese. Garnish a timbale mold measuring five by five inches with foundation paste (No. 135), line the bottom and side with buttered paper, fill with rice, place a round of buttered paper on top. moisten the upper edge, cover over with a lid of paste and cook in a moderate oven for an hour. Unmold when cold, bread-crumb and egg over twice, mark it on the top half an inch from the edge and fry in white frying fat; remove the cover and empty out the timbale. Fry in butter one ounce of finely chopped onions with half a pound of minced mushrooms, add salt, pepper, nutmeg, meat glaze (No. 402) and tomato sauce (No. 549). Arrange the noodles in the timbale in layers separated with the mushrooms and grated parmesan. Pour over some gravy (No. 404) reduced with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and the timbale is ready to serve. ADDITIONAL RECIPES. SWEET ENTREMETS. SWEET ENTKEMETS-EOT (Entremets de Douceur- Chauds), (2990). APPLES A LA GIUDIOI (Pommes a la Giudici). Remove the cores from a dozen small pretty apples; peel them evenly and cook them in a light syrup of about twelve degrees. As soon as done, drain and place them in a vessel to cover with a hot vanilla syrup of thirty degrees. With a large vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) scoop out about thirty round balls from some large apples, blanch, drain and place them in another vessel containing a hot syrup colored with carmine. With the apple parings and a few more apples prepare some marmalade with vanilla; reduce till somewhat thick and with this fill a dozen small Savarin molds to the top, and let harden. Have a pastry cutter of the same diameter as the Savarin molds and with it cut out a dozen round pieces of cooked brioche a quarter of an inch thick; bestrew them with sugar and range on a baking sheet, then place thorn in the oven to glaze; mask this glazed side with currant jelly. Dress on each one the apple paste borders, having had them cooked in the Savarin molds, and fill up the hollow centers with vanilla frangipane (No. 44) mixed with a salpicon of pineapple cut in dice, and on top dress the apples that have been previously drained and covered with a layer of lightly tinted pink jelly. Dredge over with finely chopped pistachios, fill the empty spaces in the apples with vanilla frangipane and on top set a small round croquette made of chestnut pur6e (No. 3017). Range these dressed apples in a circle on a dish, fill the middle with the small apple balls, mixed with a few whole pistachios, the whole mingled with some apple jelly (No. 3668). Serve separately a sauce made of the apple juice thickened with a little apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and flavored with kirsch. (2991). APPLES A LA NELSON (Pommes a la Nelson), Prepare a semolina croquette preparation (No. 3019), pour it into a flawn mold (No. 3170) previously buttered and sugared; place this in a buttered sautoir and push it into a very slack oven to harden the preparation. Have eight fine apples, suppress the cores with a column tube, enlarge the orifices slightly and peel them very neatly; range them in a sautoir and cover with syrup, and then cook them in the oven ; as soon as done drain on a grate and cover with strained peach marmalade (No. 3675). Unmold the semolina on a dish and dress the apples around the edge in a circle; fill the holes in these with marmalade, and lay on each a small round semolina croquette with a piece of angelica to represent a stalk; decorate the edge of the semolina with a wreath composed of angelica lozenges and candied cherries, and fill up the center with some of the same cherries (demi-sucre) ; push it into the oven for about fifteen minutes and serve with a vanilla syrup thickened with peach marmalade. A surtout is a plain round or oval base made of semolina, etc., about three-quarters to one inch high. (2992). APPLES BAKED (Pommes an lour), Use a five-eighth inch tin tube from the column box to core some good russet apples without peel- ing them: cut off a strip of the peel all around the middle and lay the apples beside each other on a dish fit for the oven, leaving half an inch space between each one. Fill up the hole in the center of each apple with white or brown sugar, and place a little melted butter on the top of them all; pour a little hot water into the bottom of the dish and push the apples into a slack oven for about half an hour. Should the oven be too hot, cover them over with paper. Serve in the same dish they were cooked in. (873) 874 TME EPICUREAN. (2993). APPLES, BARON DE BRISSE STYLE (Pommes a la Baron de Brisse). Peel twelve medium-sized apples, remove the cores with a tin tube, rub them over with lemon and cook in a light syrup, being careful to keep them slightly firm; drain on a cloth. Prepare a croquette of semolina preparation (No. 3019); spread some of it on the bottom of a disk, having it half an inch thick, and pour the remainder in a pocket furnished with a channeled socket (Fig. 179) and push this out in the shape of a plait to form a border around the inside edge of the dish; range the apples in the center; fill the cavity of the apples with cream rice preparation (No. 160) and on the top of each one place a small cream rice pear-shaped croquette, containing a shred of angelica to imitate a stalk. Decorate the border between each apple with angelica lozenges and pre- served cherries (demi-sucre), and fill up the center with whole marrons cooked in light syrup with vanilla, and mixed with a few spoonfuls of Smyrna raisins washed in hot water, the whole to be stirred with a little apricot marmalade. Serve separately a chestnut syrup with vanilla taken from some preserved chestnuts (No. 3689). (2994). APPLES BROWNED (Pommes Gratings). Have about fifteen nice small apples; empty the centers with a half-inch in diameter column box tube; peel and pare them round, then blanch in acidulated water, keeping them whole. Drain and fill the hollow centers with frangipar.e cream (No. 44), finished with a whole egg. Range the apples in a baking dish, pour over some apricot and vanilla syrup, and put them for half an hour in a slack oven, basting over frequently to finish cooking and glaze. At the last moment spread on the bottom of a vegetable dish a thick layer of vanilla cream rice (No. 160), having it very soft; remove the apples one by one with a palette knife and dress them on the rice, pressing them down slightly; close the middle hole with a half-sugared cherry, or with a round piece of greengage half an inch in diameter. Bestrew over with finely chopped and sifted almonds mixed with sugar; brush the surface lightly with butter, then brown for a few moments under a sala- mander (Fig. 123), or in a hot oven, until a fine color is attained, then serve at once. (2995). APPLES IN SURPRISE (Pommes en Surprise). Koll out sufficient puff paste parings (No. 146) to the thickness of an eighth of an inch to make eight squares of five inches each. Peel and turn eight good medium-sized russet apples to have them two and a half inches in diameter; empty out the cores with a five-eighth of an inch column tube, and on each square of paste lay one apple; brush them over with butter, besprinkle with sugar, then fill the hollow in the apple with apricot marmalade (No. 3675); wet the edges of the paste, raise it up and enclose the apples well inside, attaching it firmly on top; moisten this and lay over it a round piece of paste cut out with a channeled pastry cutter (Fig. 16). Range the apples on a baking sheet a short distance apart, egg over, and cook in a slow oven for three-quarters of an hour. Ten minutes before removing glaze them over with sugar, and lay them on a dish as soon as they are done. (2996). APPLES, NUBIAN-MERINGUED (Pommes Meringuees a la Nubienne). Cut in four eight fine apples; peel, core and round the angles, rub them over with lemon, and range them in a sautoir one beside the other; cover lightly with melted butter, and bestrew 7 with vanilla sugar, then place a sheet of buttereu paper over and cook in a slack oven. Butter and sugar a plain border mold (Fig. 138), fill it to the top with cream rice flavored with vanilla (No. 160), and finished with a few egg-yolks; lay it on a baking tin with water to reach to half its height, and set in a slack oven to harden. Spread a layer of the same rice on the bottom of a dish, unmold the border on this, and mask the inside with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) ; on this range SWEET EXTREMETS. 875 the cooked quartered apples in a pyramid, and glaze them over with apricot marmalade CNo. 3675); cover it with meringue (No. 140), shaping it like a dome over all; smooth it with a knife, and deco- rate the entire surface with rows of heads, having the largest at the base and decreasing at the top, made of the same, sticking a small piece of almond into each one. Dredge with sugar, and put the dish in a very slack oven to color the meringue slightly. (2997), APPLE "PAIN" WITH VANILLA (Pain de Pommes a la Vanille), Make a pint and a half of fine apple puree, and reduce it with half a pound of sugar. Put into a vessel six ounces of butter, beat it up to a cream, adding two egg-yolks and two whole eggs, one at a time, and then a pinch of salt; when this becomes very frothy, add to it a teaspoonful of fecula, six ounces of pulverized macaroons and the apple puree. Butter and flour a plain cylin- drical mold (Fig. 150), fill it up with the preparation, and lay it in a sautoir, with water to half its height, then cook it in an oven. Just when ready to serve, unmold on a dish and send to the table with a bowlful of very fine apple puree diluted with vanilla syrup. (2998). APPLES, PORTUGUESE (Pommes a la Portugaise). Peel twelve medium-sized apples, remove the cores with a column tube, and cook them in a light syrup; as soon as done drain on to a cloth, wipe and brush over with a layer of apricot mar- malade (No. 3675). Cut some slices of savarin, half an inch thick, and from these cut a dozen rounds with a two and a quarter inch diameter pastry cutter; cut some grooves on one of the surfaces a quarter of an inch apart to form lozenges; strew this cut side with powdered sugar, and range the slices on a baking sheet, push into the oven to glaze, and when removed mask the glazed side with currant jelly, then dress in a circle on a dish ; lay an apple on each, and fill the holes in them with currant jelly; set on each a small cream rice croquette (No. 3018), made in the shape of a three- quarter inch ball. Fill the inside of the circle with stewed cherries mingled with currant and maraschino syrup, and serve separately a sauce-boat of currant sauce, made with currant jelly dissolved in a few spoonfuls of boiling syrup, and flavored with maraschino. (2999). APPLES WITH BUTTER (Pommes au Beurre). Cut four fine russet apples in quarters; peel and pare them, and range in a well-buttered sau- toir; moisten with a few spoonfuls of twenty degree syrup, and the juice of a lemon; cover over with a well-buttered paper, and finish cooking in a slow oven. When done dress on a dish in a circle, and add to the sautoir a little apricot marmalade (No. 3675) with some Madeira wine; boil up witk the lid on; strain the sauce through a tammy, and pour it over the apples. (3000). APPLES WITH BURNT ALMONDS (Pommes au Pralin). Cut six fine apples across in two; remove the cores with a column tube, peel and round the angles; cook them in a light syrup acidulated with lemon juice, being careful to keep them slightly firm. As soon as done drain, wipe, and cover with a layer of burnt almonds (No. 1); bestrew with sugar, place them on a buttered baking sheet, and set into an oven to color. Cut half -inch thick slices of savarin, and from these stamp out a dozen round pieces the same diameter as the apples; cover them on one side with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and over this a layer of burnt almonds as used for the apples; dredge with sugar, range them on a baking sheet, and push into the oven. As soon as the crusts are browned lay them in a circle on a dish with an apple on top of each; fill the hollow of these with vanilla pastry cream (No. 46), and on top set a fine large preserved cherry (demi-sucre); fill the center of the circle with fresh strawberries, over which has been poured some sugar cooked to " small crack" (No. 171), and flavored with maraschino. (3001). APRICOTS A LA JEFFERSON (Abricots a la Jefferson). Infuse a vanilla bean in a quart of hot milk for half an hour, then take it out and set the milk on the fire; drop into it like rain six ounces of farina. Let this boil a few minutes, then remove from the hot fire to a slower one, so that it continues to cook without boiling. Then add to it six egg-yolks, two ounces of sugar, four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream, and two egg-whites beaten to a stiff froth. Butter twelve timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137); put into the bottom of each a ring of apricot paste and fill the interior of this ring with a round piece of angelica. Fill the molds with the above preparation and keep them in a bain-marie for twenty-five minutes, then unmoid and dress in a circle on a dish. Drain some fine compotes of halved apricots, wipe 876 THE EPICUREAN. them well and dress them in a dome in the center of the circle. Cover them over with the apricot syrup reduced with sugar and maraschino. Decorate the intersections of the apricots with halved, freshly skinned almonds and cherries (demi-sucre). Lay on the edge of the dish between each timbale a brandied greengage and a brandied cherry. Place the dish after it has been decorated in the oven for fifteen to twenty minutes and serve with an apricot and kirsch sauce in a saace-boat, made as follows: Put three gills of apricot pulp into a copper pan, with as much water and half a pound of sugar; let boil up once or twice, then strain the sauce through a fine sieve and add one gill of kirsch to it. (3002). BABA WITH MARSALA (Baba au Marsala). Fill a buttered baba mold to half its height with a baba paste (No. 129) without any raisins; set it to rise in a rather mild temperature until the mold is nearly full, then bake it in a moder- ate oven. As soon as done cut it off even with the top of the mold. Unmold, and pour over a rum syrup, flavored with vanilla and orange peel; drain it well and glaze it with lemon icing (No. 102). Dress it on a very hot dish and fill up the inside of the hollow space with fruits pre- pared as follows, serving the surplus of them in a sauce-boat: Preparation of Fruits. Putin a saucepan a quarter of a pound of well-cleaned sultana raisins (No. 157), two ounces of candied orange peel, two ounces of candied green almonds and two ounces of candied pineapple, the whole to be cut in small three-sixteenths inch squares; two gills of Marsala wine, three gills of syrup at thirty-two degrees, the peel of half a lemon and the peel of half an orange; put the saucepan on the fire and take it off at the first boil. (3003). BANANAS, CHERRY SAUCE-PRIED (Bananes Frites, Sauce aux Cerises) Cut some bananas lengthwise in two, roll them in finely pulverized macaroons and then in flour, and fry in very hot oil until they acquire a good color; drain on a cloth, wipe and coat over with some apricot marmalade (No. 3675), laid on with a brush. Dish them up pyramidically and dredge over freshly peeled and shredded pistachio nuts. Serve a currant sauce, with cherries apart, made by putting four heaping tablespoonfuls of currant jelly in a saucepan and diluting it with a pint of syrup at thirty degrees. Stand the saucepan on the fire, let boil a few times, then strain the syrup through a fine sieve; add to it one gill of kirsch and a good handful of preserved cherries previously washed in hot water. (3004). BISCUITS, FRASOATI (Biscuits Prascati). Break twelve eggs, putting the yolks in one vessel and the whites in another; add to the yolks three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar and a quarter of a pound of vanilla sugar and beat well with a whip to obtain a very light and frothy preparation. Then add to it six ounces of flour and six ounces of fecula sifted together, and afterward the stiffly beaten egg-whites; stir the prepa- ration until perfect. Butter and flour a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150); fill it two-thirds full with the preparation and cook it in a slack oven. As soon as done unmold and let get cold. When cold, cut it up in transversal slices a quarter of an inch thick and cover each slice with a layer of fine vanilla cream (No. 42); dredge the surfaces with a finely chopped salpicon of pineapple and pistachios. Eeconstruct the biscuit to its original shape, cover it with a layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and bestrew the sides with chopped pistachios. Now place it on a dish; decorate the top with a rosette of fine candied pink and white pears cut in four and intermingle them with loz- enges of angelica; brush these fruits over with a very thick syrup and surround the base with a row of apples cooked in butter, having small sticks of angelica placed between each. Fill the hollow center of the biscuit with cream rice flavored with vanilla (No. 160) and keep the biscuit warm for twenty minutes, serving it with a flavored English cream sauce. English Cream Sauce Flavored with Vanilla. Place in a vessel eight egg-yolks, half a pound of sugar and one ounce of starch; beat up a moment to have the mixture smooth. Stand a quart of milk on the fire in a saucepan with a ?plit vanilla bean added to it and let boil ; as soon as this occurs pour it gently over the eggs and stir all well together. Pour it all back into the sauce- pan, place it again on the fire and thicken the sauce without permitting it to boil, stirring continu- ously with a spatula, then strain through a fine sieve. The vanilla can be replaced by liquors added at the last moment. SWEET ENTREMETS. 877 (3005). BOEDER OP RICE WITH BANANAS (Bordures da Riz aux Bananes). Make a consistent rice cream preparation (No. 160) flavored with vanilla, and finish it with a few egg-yolks. Divide this into two portions, and into one incorporate a salpicon of chestnuts cut up small and candied pineapple cut in quarter-inch dice. Butter and sugar a plain border or savann mold (Fig. 139), and with the rice which has no fruit cover the sides, then fill the mold with the rice and fruit, smooth the top and set this border in a sautoir with hot water reaching halfway up, arid push it into a slack oven for twenty-five minutes. Unmold the border on a dish, and ornament the top with a handsome circle of angelica lozenges and candied cherries, and surround the base with preserved plums. Peel some fine bananas, cut them up into transversal slices a quarter of an inch thick, plunge them into a thick maraschino syrup, let simmer for a few moments, then drain and range them in a pyramid in the center of the border. Brush the top over with apricot mar- malade (No. 3675), and dredge finely chopped pistachios over all; heat the border in the oven for twenty minutes, and serve with a sauce-boat of sauce made with apple jelly (No. 3668), diluted with a little syrup and flavored with maraschino. (3006). BRIOCHES ST. MARK (Brioches St. Marc). Butter twelve small timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137), fill them three-quarters high with brioche paste (No. 130), and leave to rise in a mild temperature, and when the molds are partly full bake them in a slow oven. After taking them out cut them off level with the tops of the molds and leave in till cold, then empty them partially and pour over the insides some syrup flavored with maraschino and almond milk (No. 4), filling them up with frangipane cream (No. 43). Cover the oufcsides with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and strew the sides with green pistachios and white almonds, both chopped up finely. Ornament the tops of each brioche with a rosette composed of halved pistachios and a split cherry laid in the center. Dress them in a circle on a dish, and ar- range in the center some stewed halved peaches. Cover the ornamentation on the brioches with maraschino syrup thickened with a little apricot marmalade, and dress in the intersection of the peaches some freshly shelled white split almonds, and also some candied halved cherries, then serve. Have a sauce-boat of English vanilla cream sauce (No. 3004) to accompany this entremets. (3007). CHARLOTTE A LA DESTREY (Charlotte a la Destroy). Butter a charlotte mold, either round or oval, this depending on the dish required for serving, and line it with fine foundation paste (No. 135), then let stand in the ice-box for half an hour. Cut eight apples in quartet's, peel, core and lay them beside each other on a buttered baking sheet; be- sprinkle with sugar and cover with a sheet of buttered paper, then cook in the oven and when done remove and let cool off. Prepare a frangipane cream (No. 43); add to it a few spoonfuls of cream rice (No. 160) and a salpicon of fruit, such as green almonds, pears, apricots, a little orange peel cut in thin shreds and a few crushed macaroons. Fill up the charlotte in layers of cream and apples ( peaches or pears may be substituted), and smooth the surface; lay the mold on a baking pan, push it into the oven and let cook for about one hour; as soon as finished remove and let rest foi- ten minutes before unmolding it on a dish, then cover with well-reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and sprinkle highly with chopped roasted almonds; decorate the top with an angelica rosette and around the base of this with a circle of fine halved pistachios; fasten a nice cherry in the center of the rosette and all around a circle of preserved cherries (demi-sucre), cut in two and laid flat on the charlotte. Serve at the same time as this entremets a sauce-boat of English cream sauce, flavored with brandy and Madeira (No. 3004). (3008). APPLE CHARLOTTE (Charlotte de Pommes). Cut a few russet apples in four, peel, core and mince them up rather coarsely, then put them into a sautoir with some melted butter; stir and toss incessantly over a good fire until the moisture is reduced, then sweeten. Butter a four-inch high by four and a half inches in diameter char- lotte mold, cover the bottom with a flat rosette made of long triangles of bread, an eighth of an inch thick, pointed on one end and rounded on the other, carefully dipping them as needed in clarified butter. These slices should slightly overlap each other. Remove the center with a one-inch tube and replace with a round of bread of the same size dipped in butter. Cut some one-eighth inch thick slices of bread into inch-wide strips, having them somewhat higher than the mold; dip them in clarified butter and apply them upright to the inner side of the mold, one overlapping the other, 878 THE EPICUREAN. cut flush with the mold; cover the bottom and sides of the mold with part of the apples, and in the center put three spoonfuls of apricot marmalade (No. 3675) ; finish filling with the remainder t>i! the apples, and cover these with a round piece of bread the same size as the mold, then lay the FIG. 5 FIG. 574. mold on a small baking sheet, push it into a hot oven and leave for twenty-five to thirty minutes, so that the bread becomes a fine golden color. Should it brown too fast put a metal cover on top. Invert the charlotte on a hot dish and serve it at once with an apricot and maraschino sauce poured around (see Humboldt pudding, No. 3100). (3009). COMPIEGNE WITH SABAYON (Compiegne an Sabayon). Butter a dozen small timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137), and fill them three-quarters full with Compiegne paste (No. 3236); let rise in a mild temperature, then set them on a baking sheet, and cook in a slack oven. When done, remove and cut them off exactly level with the molds; unmold and dip them at once into a light syrup flavored with Madeira wine and vanilla; drain on a grate, and then dish them up in a circle. Prepare some rings of apricot paste of the same diameter as the top of the timbales; put them on the top of each Compiegne, place a mirabel plum in the center of each, and stick a piece of angelica into each one. Cover the Compiegnes with a Madeira sabayon, as for cabinet pudding (No. 3096), serving more of it separately. (3010). CREAM A LA MAINTENON-FRIED (Oreme Trite a la Maintenon). Kemove the outer shells from three-quarters of a pound of chestnuts; plunge them into boiling water and let boil up once or twice; then remove the saucepan from the fire, and quickly abstract the second skin ; return them to a saucepan and cover with milk, adding a quarter of a vanilla stick; cook very slowly, and then press through a sieve. Put the puree into a bowl, pour over six ounces of sugar cooked to "small crack" (No. 171) and mix it into the pulp, beating it vigorously. Spread this on a sheet of buttered paper to a quarter of an inch in thickness. Prepare a pound of white and delicate apple pulp, put it in a saucepan with a pound of sugar, and reduce; then add a tablespoonful of fecula, and a gill of water; spread this over the chestnuts and smooth it to the same thickness, then let get cold. Cut it into lozenges, and cover each one with apricot marmalade (No. 3675); roll them carefully in pulverized macaroons; then dip them in beaten eggs, and afterward in bread-crumbs; smooth with the blade of a knife, and fry to a fine color in hot white frying fat; drain, wipe, and bestrew with vanilla sugar, then dress in a pyramid on a folded napkin, and serve with a separate English cream vanilla sauce (No. 3004). (3011). CREAM OF BISCUIT WITH KIRSOH (Creme de Biscuits au Kirsch). Put six whole eggs and four yolks into a vessel with a grain of salt and six ounces of sugar, a part of which is to be flavored with orange. (This flavored sugar is obtained by rubbing the entire surface of the fruit on a sugar loaf, and then grating the flavored part off, either with a knife or spoon.) Beat the preparation with a whip, and dilute it slowly with a quart of raw milk and four gills of raw cream. Soak four ounces of lady fingers in milk, then dram on a sieve, and put them in a bowl; dilute with the above preparation, and pass the whole through a sieve, then stir in one gill of kirsch. Butter a charlotte mold, and fill it with the preparation; set it in a saucepan con- taining hot water, and place it on the fire; let the water come to a boil, and keep it in this state for thirty minutes, either on the side of a slow fire or else in a slack oven. When the cream is firm to the touch in the center, take it off and and leave it for half an hour longer in the water so that it hardens, then unmold on a dish and pour over a kirsch syrup. SWEET ENTREMETS. 879 (3012). OEEAM OP CHESTNUTS WITH OAEAMEL SUGAR (Oreme de Marrons au Caramel). Cook a pound of skinned chestnuts in water with a quarter of a vanilla bean, then rub them through a sieve into a vessel, and add six whole beaten eggs and four yolks, also half a pound of sugar; dilute with a pint of raw milk, mix well, and pass the whole through a sieve. Pour into the bottom of a plain timbale mold one gill of sugar cooked to caramel: when cold butter the sides of the mold, and fill it up with the chestnut preparation; set the mold into a saucepan with hot water to half its height, leave it on the fire, and just when it reaches the boiling point cover and keep it cooking slowly, or else place it in a slack oven to maintain the liquid at the same temper- ature without boiling for fifty to sixty minutes, or until the preparation is firm to the touch in the center. Invert the cream on a dish, and cover it with the caramel sugar found on the bottom of the mold. (3013). CREAM PAMELA-PRIED (Creme Frite Pamela). Put four eggs, two yolks, four ounces of sugar and the peel of one lemon into a bowl, beat them up with a whip and dilute with a pint of milk, then run it through a sieve. Butter and sugar twelve six-sided molds, the size of timbale molds No. 2, Fig. 137, but only half as high; fill the bottoms with a layer of candied cherries cut in four, lay on these candied pineapple and angelica washed in hot water and cut in small quarter-inch squares; scatter broken macaroons over the fruit; pour on a little of the strained preparation to soak, and prevent floating to the top, then finish filling. Place these molds in a stewpan and pour in the bottom boiling water to reach to half their height; set this in a moderate oven to poach the cream, and as soon as done remove from the oven and let get cold in the water. When cold unmold them, roll in biscuit dust, dip in beaten eggs and finish by rolling in white bread-crumbs, smooth with the blade of a knife, then plunge them into hot frying fat and fry to a fine golden color, drain on a cloth and bestrew with vanilla sugar, then serve with a Bischoffi sauce, made as follows: Bischoff Sauce. Place half a pint of white wine and as much syrup into a saucepan; boil and thicken this liquid with a spoonful of fecula diluted in a little cold water; add the peel of a lemon and the same of an orange cut in Julienne and previously blanched, also two ounces of almonds and two ounces of shredded pistachios, two ounces each of seeded Malaga and Smyrna raisins and of currants, thoroughly washed in hot water; boil a few times, then serve. (3014). CREAM WITH APPLES (Creme aux Pommes). Mince six peeled russet apples, fry them for a few moments in butter in a thin sautoirto soften slightly without letting them melt; sweeten moderately. Make a pint of cream of biscuit prepa- ration (No. 3011), strain it through a fine sieve and place it in a saucepan, then heat it slightly while stirring over a slow fire. Mix the apples in with the cream and pour the whole into a deep china baking dish; cook for three-quarters of an hour in a slack oven and if 'deemed necessary cover over with paper. Besprinkle the surface with fine sugar a few moments before serving, then remove from the oven and serve in the same dish. (3015). CRESCENTS OF NOODLES WITH CHERRIES (Croissants de Nouilles aux Cerises). Cut up finely about a pound of noodles (No. 142), blanch, drain and put them into a saucepan with two gills of cream, two ounces of fresh butter, a pinch of salt, two ounces of sugar and three tablespoon fuls of brandy; set the saucepan on a slack fire and let cook slowly, being careful to stir the contents at frequent intervals until all the moisture is absorbed, then pour the preparation on two baking sheets covered with buttered paper, spreading to a layer three-eighths of an inch thick. Bake in a hot oven. Unmold as soon as done and cover one of these flats with a thick layer of reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675); on top place the other flat, then cut into crescents, using a pastry cutter two and a half inches in diameter. Dress these crescents in a circle on a dish and fill the center with competed cherries, serving a separate cherry and kirsch sauce (No. 3003). (3016). CROQUETTES A LA TRIMALOION (Croquettes a la Trimalcion). Cut twelve apples in four, peel and core them, then cut into small dice; put them into a sau- toir, pour over a few spoonfuls of butter and fry, and as soon as done remove from the fire and add a tablespoonful of sugar, a pinch of cinnamon, a handful of candied cherries cut in four and two spoonfuls of apricot marmalade (No. 3675); pour this on a baking sheet to cool off. Mold this preparation into inch and a quarter balls, shar>e them into cylindrical croquettes an inch in 880 THE EPICUREAN. diameter, roll in cracker dust, dip in beaten eggs, then roll in bread-crumbs; smooth the breading with a knife and plunge the croquettes into hot frying fat; fry till they become a light golden color, then drain on a cloth; strew over powdered sugar and dress on a napkin. Serve with a sauce- tureen of cherry sauce prepared the same as for fried bananas with cherry sauce (No. 3003). (3017). OBOQUETTES OF CHESTNUTS (Croquettes de Marrons). Select four pounds of fine, sound chestnuts; slit them on one side and put them to roast in a large perforated pan; cover and toss at times until done. They may also be cooked by placing them on a baking sheet and then in a hot oven to roast without blackening. Skin them, remov- ing both the skins, and picking out twenty, of the finest, pound the others to a fine paste. Add, while continuing to pound, two ounces of vanilla sugar and a little raw cream. Pass this preparation through a sieve and put it into a saucepan, beating into it six egg-yolks, then dry over the fire while stirring. Pour this on a baking sheet arid leave till cold, then divide it into parts and of each one make an inch and a quarter diameter ball; in the center of each insert one of the roasted chestnuts split in two; mold the croquettes to the shape of a chestnut, dip them in beaten eggs, roll in white bread-crumbs and fry in very hot clear frying fat; when done, drain and sponge, besprinkle with vanilla sugar and dress on a napkin. (3018). CROQUETTES OF EICE WITH ORANGE, RASPBERRY SAUCE (Croquettes de Eiz a 1'Orange, Sauce Framboise). Blanch half a pound of rice in plenty of water; drain and put it back into a saucepan with sufficient boiling milk to cover, then set it on the corner of the range to finish cooking while stir- ring it at times with a wooden spoon. As soon as the rice is consistent and dry, work into it eight egg-yolks, two ounces of butter, two ounces of orange sugar, a pinch of salt, two tablespoon- fuls of whipped cream and two tablespoonfuls of candied orange peel shredded very fine. Spread this preparation on a buttered baking tin covered over with a sheet of paper and let it get cold. Divide it into balls each two inches in diameter, and draw them down on one end to give them the shape of a pear; dip in beaten eggs, then roll in white bread-crumbs and plunge them in plenty of hot fat to fry to a fine golden brown; drain, sponge, and stick a piece of angelica into the ends to imitate the stalk of a pear; besprinkle lightly with orange sugar, dress on a napkin and serve with a raspberry sauce made with a pint of raspberry juice mingled with as much boiling syrup, and Curagao, straining the whole through a fine wire sieve. (3019). OEOQUETTES OF SEMOLINA, PISTACHIO SAUCE (Croquettes de Semoule, Sauce aux Pistaches). Boil a quart of milk, add to it half a split vanilla stick and keep it warm in a covered sauce- pan; take out the vanilla and place the milk on a hot fire, and at the first boil drop into it like rain six ounces of semolina, stirring the preparation continuously with a whisk, and cover the saucepan; push it into a slack oven and take it out again fifteen minutes later. Mix in with the semolina four ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, a little salt and eight egg-yolks; stir in well with a spoon two ounces of apricot, two ounces of cherries, an ounce of pineapple and an ounce of orange peel, all cut in quarter-inch dice. Spread this on a baking sheet covered over with paper and let it get cold. Then divide it into inch and a half diameter balls; roll these in powdered macaroons, dip in beaten egg, and finally roll in white bread-crumbs; fry to a fine color, drain on a cloth, wipe and bestrew with vanilla sugar. Dress the croquettes on a napkin and serve separately an English cream sauce (No. 3004), into which has been added green pistachios shredded finely. (3020). OROUSTADES OF VENICE, MERINGUED (Croustades de Venise Meringue~es). Line some small buttered fruit pie circles, three-quarters of an inch high and two and a quarter inches in diameter, with fine foundation paste (No. 135), or else puff paste parings (No. 146); raise an edge and pinch it; place them on a baking sheet and egg the edges of each pie over twice. Put into a vessel four spoonfuls of fecula or arrowroot, six ounces of vanilla sugar, a grain of salt, eight whole eggs and eight yolks; mix well with a whisk and dilute with a pint and a half of cream or rich milk; strain the preparation through a sieve and then pour it into a saucepan containing four ounces of fresh butter; stir on the fire until the butter is entirely melted, and with this prepara- SWEET ENTREMETS. 881 tion fill the small pies, then put them into a slack oven to cook without browning; when the cream has set and the paste is cooked, remove the croustades and leave them till nearly cold. Cover the tops with meringue, forming it into a dome; decorate this, leaving a hollow in the center and dredge vanilla sugar over the whole; return them to a slow oven to brown to a fine light golden color, then take them from their molds and finish decorating with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) pushed through a cornet and some angelica and preserved cherries (demi-sucre). For a Large Croustade. Line a shallow hot pie mold with fine foundation paste (No. 135) or puff paste parings (No. 146); lay it on a baking sheet and fill it up with the same preparation as for the above; put it into a slack oven to cook for one honr. When the cream has set and the paste is cooked take out the croustade and let get partly cold before unmolding; cover it with meringue (No. 140), shaping it as a dome; decorate and finish the same as for the above. (3021). GOLDEN CRUSTS (Croutes Dorses). Scrape off the crust from some table flutes and cut them in slices half an inch thick, then range them one beside the other on a dish; pour over a little sweetened raw cream mixed with a few egg-yolks. Let the crusts soak for ten to twelve minutes, basting them over with the cream, and then take them out and extract the moisture lightly; dip them into slightly sweetened beaten eggs, then drain and plunge them into hot frying fat a few at a time; drain as fast as they brown nicely, and bestrew the surfaces with sugar; serve with fruit preserves or else an English vanilla sauce (No. 3004). (3022). CRUSTS OP PINEAPPLE, APRICOT SAUCE (Oroutes aux Ananas, Sauce d'Abricots). Cut from cooked savarin some slices three-eighths of an inch thick; from these remove some rounds three inches in diameter; divide these in two through the center and notch them on their convex side. Arrange these slices shaped like cocks'-combs on a baking sheet, dredge them over with sugar, and glaze in a brisk oven; cover them on the unglazed side with straw- berry marmalade strained through a sieve, and lay on each one a fine slice of preserved pine- apple; decorate the borders of the crusts reaching out beyond the pineapple with angelica lozenges and candied cherries cut in four, then dress them on a dish in a circle, one overlapping the other. Fill the hollow of the circle with candied fruits cut in dice, such as apricots, pears, green- gages, green almonds, candied cherries, orange peel and angelica, the whole washed in warm water, and then mingled with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) flavored with kirsch; heat the dish after it is dressed in the oven for ten minutes. Serve an apricot kirsch sauce (No. 3001) separately. (3023). CRUSTS WITH BANANAS A LA PANAMA (Oroutes aux Bananes a la Panama), Slice some brioche three-quarters of an inch thick, and from them remove a dozen rounds with a two and a quarter inch diameter pastry cutter; cut them all around a short distance from the edges and empty out the insides; lay them on a baking sheet, besprinkle with sugar and glaze in a quick oven; after they come from the oven cover the insides with guava jelly softened with a little maraschino. Peel six fine very ripe bananas, cut them across in slices an eighth of an inch thick, and plunge into a hot syrup of twenty-five degrees, flavored with maraschino, leaving them in for five minutes only, then drain and dress dome-shaped on the crusts, covering over with very hot apricot marmalade (No. 3675); dredge with fresh finely chopped pistachios and dress in a circle on a dish; fill the inside of this with pineapple cut in quarter-inch squares, thrown into the syrup in which the bananas were cooked, then brought to a boil, and mingled with some guava jelly diluted with syrup and flavored with maraschino, serving separately a hot sauce made with apricot marmalade, grated pineapple and maraschino. (3024). CRUSTS WITH CHERRIES OR STRAWBERRIES A LA MICHELET (Oroutes aux Cerises ou aux Praises k la MicheletX Cut some slices an inch thick from a very firm kitchen loaf, using only the crumb part; from them obtain six rounds with a two and a half inch diameter pastry cutter, and cut these rounds in two through their diameter so as to have twelve half-rounds. Cut partly through these half-rounds a short distance from the edge with a small kitchen knife, square the corners and plunge them into hot clarified butter to have them assume a fine golden color. Drain them at once on a cloth, wipe and empty out the centers. Cover the inside with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and fill 882 THE EPICUREAN. them level to the top with rice and cream (No. 160) flavored with vanilla and finished with a few egg-yolks and then mask the tops with a heavy layer of strawberry jam, mixed with almonds and pistachios. Dress these crusts prepared in this manner in a circle on a dish and fill the center of it with stewed fresh cherries or candied cherries washed in boiling water and softened in a light syrup, then mingled with apricot marmalade and kirsch. Serve separately a sauce-boat of cherry syrup with a few spoonfuls of currant jelly added and flavored with kirsch. (3025). CRUSTS WITH FRUITS A LA MIRABEAU (Croutes aux Traits a la Mirabeau). This entremets, though simple, can be served at the most sumptuous dinners. Cut a well-pared fresh pineapple across in two; divide the largest end into two parts, and -hese into medium-sized slices; pare again to have them all of the same size and shape, put them into a vessel and moisten to their height with a cold syrup of twenty-eight degrees; cover with a round piece of paper, and keep them in a cool place. After six hours drain off the syrup, and adding to it a handful of pow- dered sugar pour it back on the fruit and operate thus twice, but should preserved pineapple be used it will require to be done four times. Bake some savarin paste (No. 148) in a large buttered savarin mold (Fig. 139), or a large cradle mold, and leave stand for twelve hours. Cut this cake straight on top. then into transversal slices of equal thickness, and cover one side of them first with a thin layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675), then with a layer of Conde prep- FIG. 575. aration (No. 2), range them at once on a baking sheet, bestrew with fine sugar, glaze in a slack oven, and detach from the baking sheet as soon as glazed. Fasten a round flat of Genoese cake on a dish and on it place a ring of the same or of meringue, having it much higher than the flat itself, but not too wide (this ring is intended to uphold the slices of pineapple); brush it over with apricot marmalade, also the lower Genoese flat, and let dry in the air. Select some good, large, preserved cherries (demi-sucre), wash them in warm water, and place them in a copper vessel with some cold syrup of twenty-eight degrees. Now drain the slices of pineapple, and dress them ppright in the center of the ring, one overlapping the other, and bent out slightly so they form ttn shape of a basket. Then fill the hollow in the inside with the well-drained cherries, dressing them in a pyramid; brush the pineapple over with some fine apricot marmalade, diluted with Madeira wine; surround the base with the slices of glazed savarin, forming them into a pretty crown, and mask the whole lightly with the marmalade. Serve with this entremets a sauce-boatful of the same marmalade diluted with syrup and Madeira wine mixed with a Julienne of candied fruits cut from orange or mandarin peel, pears and apricots, adding a spoonful of pistachios. To make this entremets more plentiful the crusts can be surrounded at their base with a row of candied green- gages, cut in two, and the stones replaced by almond paste (No. 125) flavored with vanilla. (3026). CRUSTS WITH MADEIRA (Croutes au Madfcre). Wash in tepid water four ounces of candied citron peel, two ounces of lemon peel and two ounces of orange peel, all cut in quarter-inch squares. Put these into a saucepan with two ounces of Smyrna raisins and two ounces of currants, well picked and scalded in boiling water, then drained, and cover over the whole with boiling Madeira syrup and keep the saucepan well closed in a bain-marie until ready to serve. Make a croustade from a close and stale kitchen loaf, having it four to six inches high, and shaped like a vase. Slit the top near the edge and pass a skewer through its depth to keep it straight while cooking, then fry to a fine light golden color, drain and sponge it, remove the skewer and the slit piece on top. Scoop out a little of the inside crumbs, then fasten it on the center of a dish with a paste made of flour and egg-white. Cut slices of kitchen bread five-sixteenths of an inch in thickness and from this stamp out ovals three by two, inches; brown them on both sides in clarified butter, drain and cover with apricot marmalade SWEET ENTREMETS. 883 (No. 3675); dress them in a circle around the croustade or else substitute slices of cooked brioche, having them the same size; lay these flat on a baking sheet, besprinkle with sugar and brown in the oven. Moisten the crusts with the syrup and arrange the fruits all around. Fill the croustade with red stewed cherries (No. 3688) and angelica and serve with a separate apricot sauce, diluted with Madeira wine. (See Humboldt pudding No. 3100.) (3027). CRUSTS WITH PEACHES OE WITH PEARS (Croutes aux Peches ou aux Poires). Put into a sautoir a dozen competed peaches cut in halves, all of equal size; pour over some thick syrup and keep them warm. Cut from a kitchen loaf half-inch thick slices and from them take two-inch in diameter rounds, having as many as there are peaches. Color them in clarified butter, turning them over when done on one side to color on the other, then drain and cover lightly with apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Set a half peach on top of each and dress them on a dish; pour over some peach syrup mingled with a few spoonfuls of kirsch and serve more of this separately. For Pears. Replace the peaches by compoted pears and finish exactly the same. (3028). CRUSTS WITH PEARS A LA DOUGLAS (Croutes aux Poires a la Douglas). Cut some half-inch thick slices from a kitchen loaf and form them into rounds with a plain cutter two and a half inches in diameter; remove the center of these rounds with another cutter an inch in diameter so as to make them into rings. Put two egg-yolks into a basin and dilute with a pint of good cream, adding two ounces of sugar flavored with half a grated orange peel and pass the whole through a colander over the bread rings. After they have well soaked, drain and dip them in pulverized macaroons, then in beaten eggs and lastly roll in white bread-crumbs; fry to a fine color in clarified butter; drain and mask the surface with apricot marmalade (No. 3675); throw over a pinch of powdered burnt almonds and dress in a circle on a dish; fill the center with fine pears cooked in syrup, some Malaga raisins and candied orange peel cut in small shreds and combined with apple jelly (No. 3668) and maraschino. Serve separately a sauce-boat of kirsch syrup thick- ened with a few spoonfuls of dissolved apple jelly and the pulp of two oranges free of their white skin and seeds. (3029). CUPOLA A LA MADISON (Ooupole k la Madison). Butter a cupola-shaped mold and fill it three-quarters full with savarin paste (No. 148); let rise in a mild temperature, and as soon as it reaches the top of the mold push it into a slack oven to bake; when the cake is done unmold it on a grate, cool well, replace it in the mold and pare flush with the bottom; unmold again and cut an incision all around at three-quarters of its height, with a small kitchen knife, keeping its point toward the center; carefully lift off the lid and empty out the interior, leaving the sides half an inch thick; fill the empty cake with fine paper to prevent it from losing its shape; replace the lid and cover it with a very thin layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and ice it with fondant (No. 58) flavored with kirsch. After this icing is well drained slip the cupola on a dish and decorate the center of the lid with a handsome rosette of angelica and candied orange peel, cue to represent crescents, arranging them alternately; place in the center a large cherry and surround the crescents with a wreath formed of angelica lozenges and candied cherries laid between. Range around the base of the cupola a circle of fine brandied greengages. Prepare a compote of pears cut in four, drain and cut them up into thin slices, add- ing as many preserved cherries (demi-sucre) well washed in hot water, and mingle the whole with the same quantity of white apple marmalade, reduced and flavored with kirsch. Ten minutes before serving lift off the lid from the timbale, remove the paper and fill it up with the very hot preparation; replace the lid and keep the whole hot for a few minutes; serve with a sauce-boat of apricot kirsch sauce (No. 3001). (3030). DAMPFNOODLES WITH CREAM (Dampfhouilles a la Creme). Put half a pound of flour into a basin and make a hollow in the center; lay in it a quarter of an ounce of compressed yeast and dissolve it slowly with two gills of warm milk, adding the flour so as to obtain a soft paste; cover it over with a cloth and leave it in a mild temperature to rise to double its volume; then incorporate into this sponge four egg-yolks, four spoonfuls of sugar and half a pound of flour added very slowly, and lastly two ounces of butter; mix well for one minute in order to give the paste a good body, then lay it in a vessel and let rise to double its volume. "Work it on a floured table and roll into strings; divide each of these into pieces and shape them 884 THE EPICURE AN. into balls an inch and a quarter in diameter; range these in a buttered sautoir, three-quarters of an inch apart, and leave them to rise again to double their volume. Now pour sufficient boiling vanilla-flavored milk over to have the balls swim to half their height; cover hermetically and put the sautoir in a hot oven for fifteen to eighteen minutes. Detach them from the pan, and dress in a pyramid on a dish; cover over with some English cream sauce (No. 3004) and serve more of the same separately. (3031). STUFFED EGGS ((Eufs Farcis), Choose seven or eight large, fresh and very white eggs; saw off the top of the shell on the roundest end so as to make an opening three-quarters of an inch wide; empty the eggs into a bowl, wash the shells and leave to drain well. Beat the eggs up lightly, add to them a few spoonfuls of rich raw cream, four spoonfuls of powdered lady fingers, six or seven spoonfuls of powdered sugar, some cinnamon and a grain of salt. Butter liberally the bottom of a flat saucepan, pour in the eggs and thicken while stirring over a slow fire, the same as for scrambled eggs. When the prep- aration is done to perfection, mix in two or three spoonfuls of lady fingers cut up in small dice, and with this fill the shells one by one; lay each one when done into a separate egg cup; cover the opening with a small pyramid of the same cake cut small, and dress the egg cups on a dish. (3032). EGGS WITH OREAM, MERINGUED (CEufs a la Oreme Meringues). Have seven or eight eggs in a bowl, beat them well, then run them through a sieve; add six ounces of sugar partly flavored with vanilla and eight pulverized macaroons; dilute the whole with a pint of raw cream, and stir the preparation on the fire for a few moments to warm it, then pour it at once into a souffle saucepan (Fig. 182), or simply a buttered pie plate (Fig. 183); let it poach in a bain-marie in a slack oven, and as soon as it becomes firm take it from the water and leave gtand till cold; then cover the entire surface with apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Cover over with a layer of Italian meringue (No. 140) flavored with kirsch, smooth nicely and dredge the top with pulverized macaroons; let stand for a few moments in a slack oven and glaze it with sugar. (3033). EGGS WITH COFFEE OREAM MERINGUED ((Eufs k la Oreme au OafS Meringue's). Break seven or eight eggs in a vessel, beat and strain through a sieve; add a grain of salt, two spoonfuls of sugar, twelve pulverized lady fingers, four gills of raw cream and one gill of very strong coffee. Stir the preparation for two minutes on the fire, then pour it into a buttered tart dish; let it set in a bain-marie or slack oven and remove as soon as firm. When nearly cold cover over with a layer of Italian meringue (No. 140) flavored with cognac, smooth nicely and besprinkle with pulverized lady fingers; poach for a few moments in a slack oven, glazing over with sugar. (3034). FLAWN A LA MANHATTAN (Flan a la Manhattan). Line a flawn ring (No. 3170) with sweet paste (No. 136), leaving the edges rather thick, and let it rest for half an hour in the ice-box. Then cover the paste with buttered paper and fill it up with dry rice; cook it in a hot oven and as soon as done empty it out and cover the outside border and the inside surfaces with hot and well-reduced peach marmalade (No. 3675); slide the pie on a dish; dress against the edges a circle of halved peaches; arrange in a pyramid in the center of this crown some quartered apples cooked in butter and cover the whole with strained peach marma- lade; sprinkle over the entire surface some finely chopped pistachios and decorate between the peaches on the border, also on the summit of the pie, with lozenges of angelica and candied cherries. Set it for one instant in the oven to warm, then serve with a bowlful of cream vanilla sauce (No. 3004). (3035). FLAWN AU LION D'OR (Flan au Lion d'or). Divide some apples in eight pieces each; peel, core and cook them in butter, and when half done mingle in some apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and finish cooking. Line a flawn ring (No. 3170) with fine short paste (No. 135), raise the edges, pinch them and let the flawn stand for twenty-five minutes in the ice-box or any other cool place. Then cover the bottom and sides of the paste with buttered paper, fill up with dry rice, and cook in the oven. As soon as the crust is done, empty it out and remove the plate, then brush the surface with egg-yolks and return the crust to the oven to color. When cold mask the inside with apricot marmalade, fill in alternate SWEET ENTREMETS. 885 layers of white and well-reduced apple marmalade, flavored with vanilla and apples cooked in butter, finishing with a layer of the apples; dredge powdered macaroons over the top and then cover with apricot marmalade and on this pour a Cond6 preparation (No. 2); bestrew with sugar, and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123), then serve. Have a separate vanilla syrup mingled with apricot marmalade. (3036). ALLIANCE FEITTEES (Beignets Alliance). Cut six medium-sized apples in transversal slices three-eighths of an inch thick; remove the cores with a column tube, cut away the edges with a two -inch in diameter vegetable cutter so as to have all the rounds of the same size; fry them in butter over a brisk fire, drain and wipe. Drain as many halves of stewed peaches as there are slices of apples, fill the hollow in the apples with apple jelly (No. 3668). Prepare a fine paste with the same quantity of dry macaroons as apple paste, and pound well together with a few spoonfuls of maraschino, and with this paste fill the center of the halved peaches, and fasten these on to the rounds of apple; cover the other side of the apple with the macaroon paste to have the whole form a ball; roll them in cracker dust, and then dip in frying batter (No. 137) and plunge into hot frying fat. When the paste has become dry and well browned, drain the fritters on to a cloth, besprinkle with sugar, and lay them on a tart dish to place in the oven in order that they may glaze. Serve separately a pineapple syrup: Put half a pint of apple pulp that has been passed through a fine sieve into a saucepan, and dilute it with three gills of syrup, boil up for one minute, and then thicken this sauce with a spoonful of fecula diluted in a little cold water; remove it at once from the fire, flavor well with kirsch, and add half a pint of pineapple cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares; keep the sauce hot until needed. (3037). APPLE FEITTEES AND MONTAGNAED FEITTEES-GLAZED AND UNGLAZED (Beignets de Pommes et Beignets Montagnard Glacis et non Glaces). Core some apples with a column or tin tube five- eighths of an inch in diameter; peel them all around, and cut from them slices about a quarter of an inch thick; put to macerate in a little brandy and powdered sugar for one hour, tossing them about often so that they all get well covered. Dip each piece in frying batter (No. 137), and plunge into hot frying fat; when done and of a fine color, drain and dredge over with sugar, then dress on a napkin. For Glazed Fritters. When done place them on a baking sheet, bestrew with sugar, and glaze in a hot oven, or under a salamander (Fig. 123); serve dressed on a napkin. For Montagnard Fritters. After they have been cooked and glazed as above, cover the tops with a layer of currant jelly placed on with a spoon, then dress on a napkin and serve. '3038). APPLE FRITTEES WITH PEUNELLE OE WITH KIESCH (Beignets de Pommes a la Prunelle ou an Kirsch). Peel some fine apples; cut them across in three pieces, remove the cores with a five-eighths of an inch diameter tin tube, and cook them partly in a syrup, then drain on a sieve. Make an apple jelly (No. 3668), and when done add to it as much peach marmalade (No. 3675); range the apples on a baking sheet and mask them several times with the jelly, having sufficient of it to leave on a thick layer. When cold remove the slices of apple with a knife and roll them in powdered macaroons, then dip in frying batter (No. 137), and plunge them into hot frying fat. As the paste becomes crisp, drain them off, wipe and brush over with a brush dipped in a sugar frosting flavored with prunelles or kirsch. (3039). APEIOOT OE PEACH FEITTEES WITH MAEASOHINO (Beignets d'Abricots ou de Peches au Marasquin). Split a dozen fine apricots or peaches in four; remove the stones and skin, then boil up in a light syrup, but keeping them firm; drain on a cloth, wipe and fill the hollow space left by the stone with a ball of macaroon paste pounded with a little maraschino; cover over with a light layer of peach marmalade (No. 3675), roll them at once in pulverized macaroons and dip them in frying batter (No. 137), then plunge in hot frying fat and fry the fritters to a fine color; drain, wipe and dredge over with vanilla sugar and dress in a pyramid on a folded napkin. Serve separately a sauce made of puree of apricots if the fritters be of apricots, flavored with maraschino, or of peaches if the fritters are of peaches. 886 TTIE EPICUREAN. Another way is to peel the apricots or peaches, cut them in four, then place the pieces in a vessel with sugar, maraschino and a little vanilla syrup; one hour later drain and roll them in powdered macaroons passed through a coarse sieve. Dip the pieces in frying batter (No. 137) and immerse in hot fat, then fry to a fine color. After the paste is well fried, drain, wipe and be- sprinkle with vanilla sugar, then dress on a napkin and serve with the same sauce as for the above. '3040), BRIOCHE AND CREAM FRITTERS WITH SABAYON (Beignets de Brioche a la Creme au Sabayon). Butter a tin mold forming a box four inches wide by three inches deep and eight inches long, with a hinged cover; fill it half full with brioche paste (No. 130); let it rise in a mild temperature until the box is full, close the cover and fasten the catch, then bake it in a moderate oven. As soon as done, unmold and lay it on a wicker stand and keep it in a cool place to use only twelve hours later. Now pare and cut it up into three-eighths of an inch thick slices; cut these straight through the center so as to obtain oblong pieces three inches long by one and a half inches wide. Dilute six egg-yolks with one quart of double cream and two ounces of vanilla-flavored sugar; run the whole through a sieve and dip into it the pieces of brioche so that they soak in well; drain them off and plunge into hot frying fat, then drain again and wipe; besprinkle with powdered vanilla sugar and dress in a pyramid. Serve a sabayon with Madeira wine separately. (See cabinet pud- ding with sabayon, No. 3096.) (3041), OELERIAO, PEAR AND QUARTERED APPLE FRITTERS (Beignets de Oeleris-Raves de Poires et de Quartiers de Pommes). Celeriac. Cut some celery roots in four, pare neatly and blanch them in plenty of water, then drain and finish cooking in a twenty-two degree syrup with a gill of Madeira wine added; when done, drain, wipe dry and leave to get cold, then dip them in frying batter (No. 137), and plunge into hot fat. As soon as of a fine color and the paste is crisp, drain and wipe them off, bestrew over with sugar and serve. Pear Fritters are prepared the same, either with small pears or quartered larger ones, blanched and cooked in syrup and kirsch. Should the pears be very ripe they may be used raw arid finished exactly the same as celery fritters. Quartered Apples. Peel and core the apples, cook them firmly in a light syrup with mara- schino, drain and fry the same as for the above; glaze with sugar, pour over some rum and serve. (3042), CHERRY FRITTERS FRESH OR BRANDIED (Beignets de Cerises Fraiches ou k l'Ean-de-vie). Select some large and fine fresh cherries, remove the pits and lay the fruit in a bowl to sprinkle over with sugar, pour on a few spoonfuls of kirsch and let macerate for one hour. Then drain and thread eight of them on a silver skewer or a straw; roll these in lady finger dust and dip in frying batter (No. 137); plunge them into hot frying fat and when the paste is fried and well colored dram off the fritters on a cloth, sponge them and dredge over with vanilla sugar, then dress them in a pyramid on a folded napkin. Serve at the same time a cherry sauce made with cherry puree and flavored with kirsch. For Brandied Cherry Fritters. Prepare as above, using brandied cherries; besprinkle with sugar when the pits have been removed and finish as above. For the sauce, crush four ounces of sour cherries, put this into a copper pan with a pint of red Bordeaux wine, four ounces of sugar, a small piece of cinnamon and the peel of one lemon; leave to cook for a few minutes, then strain the liquid through a sieve and return it to the pan; thicken with a little fecula diluted in a small quantity of cold water and strain this sauce once more through the sieve; now add to it a heavy handful of candied cherries washed in hot water and serve. (3043). CREAM OF RICE FRITTERS (Beignets de Creme de Riz\ Dissolve ten ounces of rice flour in a bowl with one quart of cold milk; pass this through a sieve into a saucepan, and add to it a gram of salt, three ounces of butter, two spoonfuls of sugar and the fourth part of a vanilla bean; stir over a slow fire until it comes to a boil, then continue to cook the preparation for twenty minutes on the side of the range, adding to it a little raw cream. Take out the vanilla, and pour into another saucepan, then reduce it for a few moments. When consistent take it from the fire and mix in with it three ounces of pulverized macaroons, a piece of SWEET ENTREMETS. 887 fresh butter, and five or six well-beaten whole eggs. When the preparation has been thoroughly mingled prepare some wafer sheets, three and a half inches by two and a half; soften them between two damp napkins, and lav on the preparation run through a pocket into sticks three-quarters of an. inch in diameter, having them the whole length of the leaves; roll them into cylindricals and faste- the edges firmly, or else it may be poured directly on a baking sheet without wafers, dampened with cold water, to the thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and then set aside to cool for a few hours. Divide the preparation into pieces, three-quarters of an inch wide by three and a half inches long, or an inch and a half cubes, or else in rounds measuring one and five-eighths inches in diameter by three-quarters thick; roll the fritters in pulverized macaroons, then in beaten eggs and lastly in bread-crumbs: plunge them into hot frying fat, a few at a time, and when they have attained a fine color drain and wipe, bestrew with powdered vanilla-flavored sugar and dress on a folded napkin. (3044). MUNDANE FKITTEES (Beignets Mondains), Prepare a cream cake paste, the same as for souffle fritters a la Medicis (No. 3047). Cut some bands of paper three inches long by two inches wide, and butter them over. Pour the paste into a pocket furnished with a channeled socket and push through on to each paper band a string of paste to form a large S, both ends being rolled. Heat some fat made with beef kidney suet and lard in a large frying pan, and when this is hot plunge in sufficient of the fritters to cover the sur- face; lift off the papers as quickly as they detach from the paste and fry the fritters slowly while turning them over; when fried and of a fine color drain them on a sieve. After they become partly cold dip them one by one in a clear rum icing made with fine sugar and the liquor. Drain and place them at once on a pastry grate laid on top of a tin plate so that the icing drains off properly; when the fritters are dry dress and serve. (3045). ORANGE FRITTERS A LA TALLEYRAND (Beignets d'Oranges a la Talleyrand). For one-third. Cut two oranges into six pieces, leaving on the rind, then peel them closely and remove the seeds; besprinkle with fine sugar and drain on a cloth; dip each separate piece in frying batter (No. 137), and plunge into hot fat, and when of a fine color and very crisp drain these six pieces on a baking sheet and glaze the surfaces under a salamander (Fig. 123). For one-third. Peel a medium-sized orange, divide it as for orange glacees with caramel and immerse them in frying batter (No. 137), plunge into very hot fat, and when they have attained s fine color drain and besprinkle with vanilla sugar. For one-third. Peel three oranges to the pulp and pass a knife between the sections; take ofir all the skin and suppressing the seeds macerate in a little prunelle and sugar; wrap two pieces, of orange in a rissole made of very thin brioche paste (No. 130), having it two and a quarter inches in diameter; fold the paste over and fasten the edges together, then put to rise in a mild temper- ature; fry to a fine color, drain well, dry and glaze with a light flavored icing (No. 102). Dress these three kinds of fritters on a napkin, all on the same dish, but in separate groups. (3046). SINGAPORE FRITTERS (Beignets Singapore). Dry two dozen macaroons; break them up and mash them with some rum in order to make a consistent paste. Peel neatly a medium-sized ripe pineapple; remove the core with a column tube five-eighths of an inch in diameter and split it lengthwise in two; cut from each half, even slices, having them one-eighth of an inch thick; put these slices in a vessel, bestrew with sugar, and pour over some brandy, then let macerate for two hours. Drain, wipe, and cover one side with the macaroon and rum paste; lay another slice on top and fasten the two together so as to enclose the macaroons, then roll them in powdered cracker, and dip them in frying batter (No. 137); plunge into hot frying fat, and when the paste becomes crisp and of a fine color drain off the fritters, wipe and dredge with sugar; set them on a baking sheet, push them into a hot oven to glaze, and dress in a pyramid on a folded napkin. Serve separately a sauce made with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) diluted with the pineapple infusion and a little rum, adding some square pieces of pineapple. (3047). SCUFFLED FRITTERS A LA MEDICIS (Beignets Souffles a la M6dicis). Put a pint of water into a saucepan with two ounces of butter, one ounce of sugar, and a grain of salt; set the saucepan on the fire and at the first boil remove it on one side and mix in quickly half a pound of sifted flour; thicken the paste over the fire, dry for a few moments, working it continually, and then take it off to have it lose its greatest heat, but continuing to stir it steadily. 888 THE EPICURE AIST C Then add to it one tablespoonful of orange flower water and seven to eight eggs, breaking them in one by one. Take up a heaping teaspoonful of this paste, and push it with the finger in such a manner as to give it a round shape, then let it fall into hot frying fat: stir all the time until the fritters assume a fine golden color, then drain on to a cloth and besprinkle with vanilla-flavored sugar; glaze them in a brisk oven, and dress on a napkin. Serve separately a sauce-boatful of chocolate cream prepared as follows: Place in a saucepan three egg-yolks, two ounces of sugar, and half an ounce of fecula; beat well and dilute the preparation with half a pint of boiling milk into which has been added the fourth part of a vanilla bean; stir the whole on the fire, and as soon as it thickens pour it over an ounce of dissolved cocoa; mingle all well together, pass through a tammy and let get cold, afterward adding to it twice as much whipped cream; serve at the same time as the fritters. (3048), SOUFFLED FRITTERS WITH LEMON PEEL OR WITH ROASTED HAZEL-NUTS (Beignets Souffle's aux Zestes de Citron ou aux Noisettes GrilleesX With Lemon Peel. Put into a small saucepan two gills of water, one ounce of butter, a pinch of sugar and a grain of salt. Stand the saucepan on the fire and remove it at the first boil, Mien incorporate four ounces of fine sifted flour, proceeding the same as for cream cake paste (No. 132). When the paste has become smooth beat it for a few moments on the fire to dry, then take it off and let cool partly. Then incorporate three whole eggs and two yolks, putting them in singly, also a little finely chopped lemon peel. The paste must be rather too hard than too soft. Have a deep pan; heat in it moderately some fine frying fat, half clarified butter and half lard; take it from the range to the side of the fire. Take up the paste in small quantities with a teaspoon and let it fal] on a floured table; roll into balls and arrange each one as soon as done on a small smooth saucepan cover, then slip them into the hot fat, a few at a time. After the fritters are all in the fat bring the saucepan back to the hot fire so as to gradually increase the heat, being careful to toss the fritters continuously. When they are all of a fine color drain and roll each one in vanilla sugar and dress on a napkin. With Roasted Hazel-nuts. A pint of milk, quarter of a pound of butter, five eggs and four ounces of roasted hazel-nuts, pounded in a mortar with a little kirsch. Finish the same as the above. (3049). STRAWBERRY FRITTERS WITH MACAROONS, GARNISHED WITH GLAZED STRAW- BERRY FRITTERS (Beignets de Praises aux Macarons, Garnis de Beignets de Praises Glac6s), Procure some large strawberries; cover them entirely with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and roll them in pulverized macaroons, then dip them one by one into a light frying batter (No. 137), and plunge them immediately into very hot frying fat. When the paste has fried, and is of a fine color, drain them off, and roll in vanilla-flavored sugar; dress on a folded napkin surrounded by the strawberry fritters. Strawberry Fritters. These are large strawberries dipped in frying batter, and plunged into very hot frying fat, drained, wiped, and bestrewn with sugar, then glazed in the oven; dress them around the above strawberry fritters. (3050), ROMAN TRIUMVIRATE FRITTERS (Beignets Triumvirat Romain), This hot dessert is composed of three sorts of fritters: Stuffed greengages, stuffed pears and stuffed pineapple. The Stuffed Greengages are made by splitting some very ripe and sound gages through the middle; separate the two parts and remove the stone; apply on the cut side a macaroon paste made by pounding macaroons to a paste with apple jelly (No. 3668) and kirsch. Give them the original shape, roll them in powdered macaroons and dip in frying batter (No. 137); plunge them into hot frying fat and when the paste is fried and of a fine color, drain and wipe; besprinkle with sugar and glaze either under a salamander (Fig. 123) or in a hot oven. The Stuffed Pears are made by peeling some medium pears, leaving on the stalks and emptying them from the other end with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91), removing all the seeds. Cook them in a light syrup, drain and wipe and fill the empty space with candied apricots cut in three-sixteenths inch squares and mingled with apricot marmalade (No. 3675); cork up the opening with a round piece of pear or angelica, and dip them in a frying batter (No. 137), and then in plenty of hot fat to fry to a good golden brown; drain, wipe and bestrew with vanilla sugar. SWEET ENTREMETS. 889 For Stuffed Pineapples. Peel a pineapple neatly, and divide it into one-eighth of an inch slices, and each of these in four; lay them in a vessel, pour over some good brandy, and dredge with powdered sugar, leaving them to macerate for half an hour; drain, wipe, put together two by two with a layer of hazelnut paste with cooked sugar (No. 125); press down and dip in frying batter (No. 137), then in white frying fat. When the fritters are of a fine color, drain, wipe and lay them on a baking sheet, bestrew with sugar and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123). Dress in three dis- tinct groups on a folded napkin and serve separately a sauce made of pineapple and prurielle as follows: Mix equal parts of grated pineapple and apricot marmalade (No. 3675); put it in a saucepan on the fire and leave boil up once or twice: then dilute with as much syrup, and flavor nicely with prunelle liquor. (3051). FETJITS A LA OEEOLE (Fruits & la Oriole). Cut lengthwise in two one large, well-pared pineapple, either fresh or preserved. Divide each half into slices of even length and thickness, not having them too thin, and lay them in a flat dish to cover with a cold syrup of twenty-eight degrees; let macerate for two or three hours. Beside these split in halves five or six fine peaches, not too ripe, suppress the stones, then lay a few at a time on a large skimmer and plunge into boiling water; remove to the side of the fire and leave them until the skins detach, then throw them at once into cold water. As soon as the skins are peeled off drain and macerate them for one hour in a cold syrup of twenty-eight degrees and covered with a round piece of white paper. In case no fresh peaches can be procured use canned ones cut in two; after removing them from the can they should be wiped on a cloth and then ranged in a china vessel and covered with a cold syrup of twenty-eight degrees, afterward with a round piece of white paper. Cook in milk three-quarters of a pound of blanched Carolina rice, keeping it consistent but tender; sweeten it well at the last moment, finishing with a little cream, fresh but- ter and a few egg-yolks. With this rice fill a buttered pyramidical tin mold shaped like a funnel; press down the rice and lay the mold in a narrow but deep bain-marie saucepan, and keep it hot for ten to twelve minutes. Just when prepared to serve drain the pineapples and peaches; unmold the rice on a cooked paste (No. 131) foundation, a little wider than the circumference of the mold, hav- ing it attached to the center of a dish; dress the slices of pineapple erect against the pyramid, lightly overlapping them, and dress the half peaches around the pineapple. Arange in a crown-shape on top of the pyramid a few angelica leaves cut into points and fill the center with a cluster of fine large red candied cherries. Brush the fruits over with a thick vanilla syrup and serve with a sauce-tooat of apricot and maraschino sauce (No. 3001). (3052). GEENADES WITH OHEEEIES (Grenades aux Cerises). Divide a pound and a quarter of brioche paste (No. 130) into twelve even parts; roll each one into a separate ball and lay these in bottomless oval molds, three inches long, one and three-quarters inches wide and one and three-quarters inches high; let rise until they are almost full, then cook in a hot oven; as soon as done unmold the cakes on a grate and let cool off; then pare them with a knife to give them the appearance of an egg. Put ten egg-yolks and eight ounces of sugar in a bowl and dilute with a quart of cream flavored with vanilla, then strain through a tammy. Soak the brioches in this cream, drain and roll them in pulverized macaroons; dip them in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and plunge into hot frying fat to fry to a fine color; drain, wipe and dish them up in a circle; fill the interior space with a compote of cherries with prunelle and serve separately some of the syrup from the compote. 890 THE EPICUREAN. (3053). MAZARINE WITH PINEAPPLE AND KIRSOH (Mazarine a 1' Ananas et au Kirsch). Butter a timbale mold and fill it three-quarters full with savarin paste (No. 148); let rise in a mild temperature, and when this has reached nearly to the height of the top edges lay it on a tart plate and push into a brisk oven in order to bake the cake nicely. Unmold as soon as it is done and leave stand till cold. Now pare the cake evenly and cut it into transversal slices three- eighths of an inch thick; cover each of these with a layer of pineapple marmalade flavored with kirsch, and spread over some very finely chopped pistachios; reconstruct the cake as originally and mask the outside with hot apricot marmalade (No. 3675); bestrew with a mixture of chopped pistachios and dried almonds, then slide it on a dish to keep warm. Wash at the same time in hot water four ounces of citron, two ounces- of angelica, and four ounces of orange peel, all cut into thin inch-long fillets; put these in a saucepan with a quart of twenty-eight degree syrup, place it on the fire and let boil up once or twice, then withdraw the saucepan to one side, and incorporate a quarter of a pound of very fresh butter divided in small pats, stirring constantly so as to mingle the butter well with the sauce; flavor with a gill of kirsch, and serve this in a sauce-boat to accompany the mazarine. (3054). MIELITONS OP PEAKS A LA BIENVENUE (Mirlitons de Poires a la Bienvenue). Butter and line a dozen deep tartlet molds with fragments of puff paste (No. 146); range them on a baking sheet and keep in a cool place. Put into a basin four ounces of powdered sugar, four ounces of sifted flour and two tablespoonfuls of orange flower water; dilute with a pint and a half of cream and strain the whole through a fine sieve. Place a piece of butter the size of a half-inch ball in the bottom of each mold, and set the baking sheet at the mouth of the oven door, then fill the molds with the above preparation; dredge sugar over and push the sheet gently into a warm spot. In the meantime peel a dozen fine small Sickle pears; empty out the insides with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) and cook them in a light syrup; drain well and fill the insides with well-washed candied apricot cut in small squares. Lay one pear in each tartlet and cover with an apricot and kirsch sauce. Bestrew shredded pistachios over and dress in a circle on a round dish, filling up the center with competed cherries; serve an apricot sauce with kirsch and brandy (No. 3001) apart. (3055). MUNICH WITH PEACHES (Munich aux Peches). Butter twelve timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137); fill them half full with savarin paste (No. 148), and let rise in a mild temperature, then bake in a moderate oven. As soon as done cut them off even with the edges, unmold and dip them at once in a lemon syrup flavored with Curacao, maraschino and kirsch. Drain on a grate, glaze with a light orange icing (No. 102), and decorate the top of each cake with a rosette of halved pistachios, having a halved candied cherry in the center. Range them in a circle on a dish, and fill up the inside with compoted peaches; serve a marmalade of peaches (No. 3675) passed through a sieve and flavored with noyau in a separate sauce-boat; see Cleveland peach pudding (No. 3102). (3056). SMALL CELESTINE OMELETS (Petites Omelettes Celestine). Make a dozen small omelets, and when done slip them on a baking sheet and cover four of them with cream frangipane (No. 44) and chopped or finely cut-up candied fruits, four with apple marmalade (No. 3675) and almonds, and four with strawberry marmalade. Fold over flat or else roll them and cut off the ends; divide each one in two and arrange them in a pyramid form on a hot dish; pour over some apricot sauce with rum, and dredge over the surface pistachios and sweet almonds cut in dice and two spoonfuls of dry currants; serve at once. (3057). OELESTINE OMELET WITH WHIPPED OEEAM (Omelette 0lestine a la Oreme Fouettee). Break three eggs in a bowl and add to them a pinch of salt and a coffeespoonful of sugar; beat the whole well and run it through a sieve. Butter the bottom of a medium-sized frying pan with clarified butter, heat and pour it in the preparation, spreading it over the entire surface so as to obtain a mellow omelet. Put in a vessel two spoonfuls of currant jelly and dilute it with double its quantity of sweetened whipped cream, then incorporate into this two crushed macaroons; lay this cream in the center of the omelet, raise the edges to inclose it well, and invert it on a dish. Powder over with powdered sugar, and glaze with a red-hot iron. Dress on each side a spoonful of whipped cream mixed with currant jelly and crushed macaroons. SWEET ENTREMETS. 891 (3058). FEANGIPANE OMELET (Omelette a la Frangipane). Prepare a frangipane cream with vanilla and almonds (No. 44). Beat up ten eggs in a vessel with a grain of salt, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and the same of melted butter; dilute the whole with a gill of cream. Make with this a dozen small omelets in a pancake pan buttered with clari- fied butter; after taking them from the pan, slip them on a baking tin and cover over one side with a layer of the prepared frangipane; fold them up flat and cut off the ends, bestrew with pow- dered sugar and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123), then dress in a pyramid. (3059). SUM OMELET (Omelette au Ehum). Beat up seven or eight eggs in a bowl and add to them a grain of salt, two spoonfuls of powdered sugar and a spoonful of good rum. Warm a little butter in a pan and pour in the beaten eggs, thickening them over a brisk fire stirring with a large fork. Fold over the omelet as fast as it detaches from the pan, and invert it with one stroke on a long dish; strew its entire sur- face with powdered sugar and glaze it with an omelet iron heated in the fire, decorating the top any desired fashion. Serve the omelet after pouring a few spoonfuls of rum with a little syrup into the bottom of the dish and setting it on fire. (3060). OMELET SOUFPLE, ANCIENT STYLE (Omelette Sonfflfe a I'Ancienne). Melt half a pound of good butter and have it clarified. Put into a glazed vessel fourteen egg- yolks and ten ounces of vanilla sugar; beat the preparation the same as for lady fingers, or until it becomes frothy and light, then add to it a grain of salt, seven or eight pulverized macaroons, and lastly sixteen stiffly beaten egg-whites. Pour the melted butter into two clean omelet pans, heat and putting half the preparation into each, toss slowly to warm them both at once, having them absorb all the butter, and keep them well rounded; transfer them immediately into two deep, buttered dishes, and push into a slack but well-regulated oven; remove two minutes later and split them down through their entire depth, then return them to the oven. Twelve to fifteen minutes siiffice to cook the omelets. When done and light, besprinkle liberally with powdered vanilla sugar (No. 3165), and two minutes later remove from the oven and serve immediately. (3061). OMELET SOUFFLE-LIGHT (Omelette Souffle^ Legere). Put three spoonfuls of powdered sugar, four ounces of flour, a grain of salt and some lemon peel into a vessel, and dilute it first with ten egg-yolks, then with half a gill of raw cream, in order to obtain a paste the same consistency as a frying paste; incorporate into it six well-beaten whites and three-quarters of a pound of whipped cream. Have some melted butter in a large pan; when hot pour in the preparation and cook it the same as for an omelet souffle with preserves (No. 3065); when done to perfection slip it on a sheet of paper and strew over with sugar; roll it on itself, and dress on a dish; dredge more sugar over, and glaze in the oven or under a salamander (Fig. 123). (3062). OMELET SOUFFLE WITH ALMONDS (Omelette Souffle^e aux Amandes). For six persons. Beat up six egg-yolks, twelve shelled, skinned and crushed bitter almonds, and six teaspoonfuls of sugar in a bowl the same as for lady fingers; add the grated peel of a lemon and a grain of salt; as the preparation becomes light stir in delicately the beaten egg-whites, using a spoon, and cutting it with this. The mixture should now stand alone without any danger of sink- ing, then pour it into a long buttered plated dish, smooth the surface, shaping it like a large folded omelet, and push the dish into a well-heated but not too hot oven. As soon as the omelet begins to brown remove and split it lengthways through the center with a knife, being careful not to press too hard, then replace it in the oven and be careful to turn the dish around from time to time. Let cook for twenty-five minutes; cover with sugar before it is finished so that it can glaze, and when removed dredge over more sugar before serving. 892 THE EPICUREAN. (3063). OMELET SOUFFLE WITH APPLES (Omelette Souffle'e aux Pommes), Prepare an omelet souffle preparation exactly the same as for a light omelet souffle (No. 3061). Cut four or five good apples in quarters, peel, core and mince, then put them into a pan with warm butter, and toss on a moderate fire; besprinkle with sugar, and cook without letting them melt; then remove the pan from the fire to thicken the contents with two or three spoonfuls of apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Have four spoonfuls of clarified butter in a large frying-pan; when hot pour in the omelet preparation, heat it for two minutes, then push the pan into a slack oven to cook the omelet; when firm slip it on a large sheet of paper, then turn it over again into the pan after having buttered it once more. When done slip it on the paper again and fill it with the apples. Roll it on itself, dress on a dish, bestrew the surface with sugar, then glaze. (3064). OMFLET SOUFFLE WITH MACAEOONS (Omelette Soufflee aux Macarons). Stir in a bowl six egg-yolks with a grain of salt and seven ounces of powdered sugar. The whole should get quite frothy. Pound six macaroons, and shake them through a sieve; beat up six egg- whites and mix them gradually with the former preparation, also stir in the macaroon powder at the same time. Melt three ounces of butter in a pan, and when hot pour in the omelet and toss it very slowly over the fire to heat through, then double it over, and invert it on a long buttered plated dish, and finish cooking the omelet in a slack oven. A few seconds before taking it out besprinkle bountifully with powdered vanilla sugar (No. 3165) to glaze. In order to have an omelet souffle perfect, the guest should be kept waiting. (3065). OMELET SOUFFLE WITH PEESEEVES (Omelette Souffle'e aux Confitures). Place in a bowl five ounces of flour with four ounces of powdered sugar; dilute with two gills of milk, strain the liquid through a sieve into a saucepan and add to it a bit of lemon peel, a grain of salt and three ounces of melted butter; stir the preparation over a slow fire to thicken and boil for two minutes without leaving it, and when it is taken from the fire remove the lemon peel and five minutes after work in six or seven egg-yolks, one at a time, without ceasing to beat; when cold stir in the beaten whites. Put into a large frying pan four or five spoonfuls of clarified butter; when hot pour in the preparation, spreading it over the entire surface, and two minutes after push it into a slack oven on a trivet; as soon as the top is firm turn the omelet over on the lid of a large saucepan covered with a sheet of paper, slide it back at once to the rebuttered pan and set it once more in the oven to finish cooking. It ought, to be quite mellow. As soon as done, slip it on a sheet of paper again and fill the center with a row of preserves; fold it on itself, then invert it on a long dish with the assistance of the sheet of paper; shape it prettily, tightening the two ends, and besprinkle over with fine sugar; glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123). (3066). OMELET SOUFFLE WITH VANILLA (Omelette Souffle'e a la Vanille). Place six egg-yolks in a bowl with three ounces of powdered sugar and an ounce of vanilla sugar (No. 3165); beat well with a whip until it becomes as light as for biscuits; also beat up twelve whites to a stiff froth and mix them in slowly with the others, then dress a part of this preparation in a pyramid form on a lightly buttered dish, leaving a hollow in the center; pour the remainder into a pocket furnished with a socket and decorate the surface of the omelet prettily; sugar it over and bake in a hot oven for eight or ten minutes, serving it as soon as it is done, or it may be dressed on a long dish and split lengthways through the center with the blade of a knife so as to make two pieces of it, then cook as above. (3067). OMELET STUFFED WITH PEESEEVES GLAZED (Omelette Fourre'e aux Confitures et Glace"e). Prepare a sweet omelet with seven or eight eggs; as soon as it becomes firm roll it over on itself in the pan to detach it, then bring it forward and fill it with currant jelly or apricot marmalade (No. 3675); shape it nicely, rolling it on itself lengthwise, and invert it quickly on a small long dish. Give it a pretty appearance, turning the ends under, and dredge over with pow- dered sugar; glaze the surface with an iron heated in the fire. SWEET ENTREMETS. 893 (3068), OMELET STUTFED WITH STEAWBEEEIES (Omelette Fourre"e aux Praises). Pick about forty large, ripe and very fresh strawberries; select twenty of the finest ones and cut them in four, then place them in a bowl with sugar, a piece of orange peel and two spoonfuls or rum; keep them in a cool place. Press the remainder of the strawberries through a fine sieve ssid put the pulp into a bowl to sweeten and also lay on ice. Break seven or eight eggs in a vessel, FIG. 577. mix in two soup spoonfuls of sugar, two soup spoonfuls of good cream, a few small bits of butter and a grain of salt; beat up well. Heat some fresh butter in a pan, pour in the beaten eggs and stir with a fork until they thicken; when the omelet detaches from the pan bring it forward and fill it with the cut-up strawberries without any of the liquid and turn it over with one stroke on a long dish. Give it a pretty shape, besprinkle with powdered vanilla sugar (No. 3165), glaze with a red hot iron three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter and surround with the puree, into which should be incorporated the liquid from the quartered strawberries. (3069). OMELET WITH FKUITS, MEEINGUED (Omelette aux Fruits Meringue'e). Prepare an omelet with ten beaten eggs, a grain of salt, powdered sugar, butter and raw cream, the same as for frangipane omelet (No. 3058). With this preparation and some clarified butter cook a dozen omelets in a small frying pan and when done spread them at once on a baking sheet; brush the surfaces on one side only with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), bestrew with a fine salpicon of assorted candied fruits and roll up the omelets, cut off the ends and divide each one in two; spread them over with more marmalade and dress in a pyramid on a dish; scatter over more of the same salpicon, then cover the entire pyramid with meringue prepared as for snow eggs (No. 3163); smooth this neatly and decorate it through a cornet; dredge over powdered sugar and poach the whole in a slack oven, setting the dish on top of a thick baking tin. (3070). OMELET WITH PUEEE OF SPINACH-SWEET (Omelette Sucre'e a la Pure*e d'Epinards). Blanch quickly in salt water in a copper basin a few handf uls of new spinach, having it very clean, tender and fresh this is most important. When well drained and squeezed chop or pound and press it through a sieve. Cook some butter to hazel-nut (No. 567) in a saucepan, mix in with it three or four spoonfuls of the spinach and fry until the moisture is thoroughly evaporated, then add a handful of powdered lady fingers, a little sugar and a few spoonfuls of raw cream. Cook the whole from four to five minutes, remove and put in a bit of lemon peel and a piece of butter. Prepare a sweet omelet with seven or eight beaten eggs, and as soon as it thickens bring it to the front of the pan and fill it with the puree; fold over and invert it on a small, long dish; shape it prettily with the two ends finished in a point; bestrew with powdered sugar and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123) or with an iron three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter heated red hot in the fire. (3071). OMELET WITH RUSSET APPLES (Omelette aux Pommes de Eeinette). Cut three russet apples into quarters; peel, mince coarsely and put into a pan with six table- spoonfuls of melted butter; heat well without letting them dissolve. Dilute two tablespoonfuls of flour with two whole eggs and eight tablespoonfuls of raw cream; add to this two spoonfuls of powdered sugar and a grain of salt; pour the preparation over the apples, spreading them on the entire surface of the pan, then as soon as it begins to thicken prick it with a fork to dry the top. Dredge some brown sugar over the omelet and laying an inverted plate over hold it down with the right hand and turn the pan quickly so as to receive the omelet on the plate. Melt more butter in the pan and slipping the omelet into it, heat it well, rolling the pan backward and forward to glaze the sugar without allowing the omelet to adhere, then sprinkle some more of the same sugar over the top and turn it again on the plate; slip it on a dish and serve. 894 TTIE EPICUREAN. (3072). PANCAKES A LA DEJAZET (Crepes a la Dejazet). Work nine ounces of flour with a pint of boiling milk in a saucepan until it becomes a smooth paste, then add to it at once four and a half ounces of butter, four ounces of sugar and a pinch of salt. Set the vessel on the fire and stir it with a spoon until it becomes thick and detaches from the sides, then remove it from the fire and let the preparation get cold, afterward adding to it twelve egg-yolks, four ounces of sugar, a finely chopped orange peel and ten egg-whites beaten to a stiff froth. Heat two small frying pans, the bottom of each measuring five inches across; wipe them well and butter over lightly with a brush; then pour into each one a very thin layer of the preparation and cook in a brisk oven, turning them over when half done. Drain them on to a cloth and continue until three-quarters of the preparation is used. Soak them with maraschino and cover with a layer of English coffee cream (No. 41) with vanilla added, then dress them one on top of the other, finishing with a pancake; cover the whole with the remainder of the prepara- tion, pour over some butter and brown in a hot oven, placing another dish underneath the one they are dressed on; bestrew with sugar and glaze till they attain a fine color. Serve an apricot sauce with kirsch (No. 3001) separately. (3073). PANCAKES A LA ROSSINI MEKINGUED (Pannequets Meringue's a la Kossini), Place in a vessel half a pound of flour, one ounce of sugar, a pinch of salt, lemon peel and two tablespoonfuls of orange flower water; beat with a whip to mix well and dilute the prepara- tion with five gills of cream, afterward adding three ounces of melted butter. Heat two small pancake pans, wipe them nicely and brush with clarified butter; pour into each one two spoonfuls of the preparation, spreading it over well and set it on a slow fire. As soon as the pancake begins to dry turn it over quickly and a few seconds later invert it on a baking sheet; finish cooking all the preparation the same way. Cover each pancake with a layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and roll them up on themselves. Spread a thick layer of pastry cream (No. 46) on the bottom of a dish, dress over the pancakes, forming them into a pyramid and cover with a layer of vanilla meringue with sugar (No. 140); decorate the summit with a rosette of the meringue pushed through a channeled socket pocket and the base with a circle of hollows: besprinkle lightly with sugar and push into a very slack oven to color the meringue, then fill the hollows with currant jelly (No. 3670) and apricot marmalade (No. 3675). A Madeira sabayon sauce (No. 3096) is to be served apart. (3074). GEKMAN PANCAKES (Crepes a 1'Allemande). Put in a bowl six ounces of flour, eight egg-yolks, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and four table- spoonfuls of melted butter; stir the whole to obtain a smooth preparation. Dilute this with a gill and three-quarters of double cream, and add five beaten-up egg-whites and four tablespoonfuls of whipped cream. Butter lightly with clarified butter the bottom of two medium pans; heat and pour into each a thin layer of the batter, spreading it over the entire surface, and push them into a hot oven; when half done turn them over to have them cooked evenly on both sides. As soon as they are finished drain them on a cloth, bestrew with sugar and dress on a dish. (3075). PANCAKES OF PEACH MARMALADE MAGEDOINE (Crepes Marmelade de Peches Mace"doineX Have four ounces of sifted flour in a basin with one ounce of sugar, a pinch of salt, two whole eggs, one egg-yolk and the finely chopped peel of a quarter of an orange; add to the whole a gill and a quarter of milk. Stir well with a whip and pour in two and a half ounces of melted butter and with this preparation make some pancakes, six inches in diameter; from them cut with a pastry-cutter rounds in the center two and a half inches in diameter and around with another cutter six inches in diameter, so as to have them all of even size. Cover with a layer of peach marmalade (No. 3675) and dress on a dish, superposing one on the other; bestrew with fine sugar and glaze under a salamander (Fig. 123), then fill the center with a macedoine of fruits cut in five-sixteenth inch squares, having them mingled with peach marmalade and maraschino. Place around a garnishing of apples cut in inch-diameter balls and cooked in syrup, and on each one of these fasten a candied cherry with a piece of angelica. Serve an apricot kirsch sauce (No. 3001) apart. SWEET ENTREMETS. 895 (3076). PANCAKE STICKS, KOYEATJX (Pannequets Batons, Royeanx), Prepare six large pancakes as for pancakes a la Eossini (No. 3073); cut them in two and each cf these pieces into oblongs, four and a half inches long by three inches wide; lay on the center of each of these a spoonful of almond cream (No. 40) ; fold them laterally in three so as to enclose the cream and dip them in beaten eggs; roll in bread-crumbs and plunge into very hot frying fat to have them a fine golden color, then drain, bestrew with vanilla sugar (No. 3115) and dress in a pyramid on a napkin. Serve separately an orgeat sauce thickened with a few spoonfuls of apricot marmalade. See Franklyn pudding (No. 3098). (3077). PANCAKES WITH BROWN SUGAR-LIGHT (Crepes LSgeres a la Cassonade). Put one pound of flour into a basin; make a hollow in the center and break in the eight egg- yolks; dilute with a glassful of milk, add three spoonfuls of sugar and a grain of salt. Work in the flour slowly so as to have a smooth and light paste, then add to it three-quarters of an ounce of yeast dissolved in a little warm milk and strained. Let the paste rise for two hours in a mild temperature, afterward mixing in with it five well-beaten egg-whites and one pint of whipped cream, then leave it stand for ten minutes longer. Put some clarified butter into a small sauce- pan and use it to brush over the bottom of a small frying-pan; pour in two or three spoonfuls of the pancake preparation, spreading it all over the pan, and cook in the oven. Before turning the pan- cake over cover the surface with the clarified butter; when done slip it on a baking tin, sweeten both sides with brown sugar, and when all are cooked dress and serve them very hot. (3078). PANCAKES WITH ORANGE FLOWER WATER-LARGE (Grandes Crepes a 1'Eau de Fleur d'Oranger). Sift twelve ounces of flour into a basin; add to it a grain of salt, and mix in six to eight eggs, Dne by one, beating the paste each time for three or four minutes so as to have it smooth and light; put in two spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and four spoonfuls of good olive oil; when the mix- ture is finished add two or three spoonfuls of raw cream, and as much brandy; the paste should be flowing without being liquid; cover the basin with a cloth, and let it rest for a couple of hours. Heat two omelet pans, butter them liberally with a brush dipped in clarified butter, and cover the bottom with a rather thick layer of the paste; prick it with the prong of a fork to have the liquid parts fall to the bottom. As soon as the pancake attains consistency rotate the pan vigorously to detach it from the pan, and toss it over with one stroke; butter the bottom of the pan and the top of the pancake with melted butter without ceasing to toss the pan over a slow fire so that it finishes to cook. When the pancake is properly done slide it on a round dish, having the bottom bestrewn with brown sugar, and dredge more of the same over the top; then sprinkle with a few drops of orange flower water, and on this slip the second pancake; sweeten and sprinkle it the same. Send the dish at once to the table so that they can be eaten hot while the other two are being prepared. (3079). PANCAKES WITH PRESERVES-LIGHT (Pannequets Lexers aux Confitures). Dilute half a pound of flour with eight egg-yolks, one pint of milk, a gill of cream, and four ounces of melted clarified butter; add lemon or vanilla flavoring, a grain of salt, three grated bitter almonds, and the beaten egg-whites. Dip a brush in clarified butter, and grease over some small pancake pans; heat and pour into each one a spoonful of the preparation; spread it thinly over the entire surface of the pan, and as soon as the paste assumes a color underneath turn over on the other side. When done slip on a baking sheet, besprinkle with vanilla or lemon sugar, and dress on a dish, one on top of the other; serve with a separate plateful of preserves. (3080). PEACHES A LA COLBERT (Peches a la Colbert). Plunge twelve fine peaches into boiling water for a few seconds in order to skin them easily, then split, pare and take out the kernels; put the peaches to macerate in a hot twelve-degree syrup flavored with maraschino. As soon as the fruit is tender drain on a cloth, wipe and stuff each half with rice and cream flavored with vanilla (No. 160) and finished with a few egg-yolks; place two half peaches together to resemble whole ones, then cover them with a light coating of apricot marmalade (No. 3675), roll in pulverized macaroons, dip in beaten eggs, then in white bread-crumbs and fry to a fine golden color. Cut some slices of savarin cake three-quarters of an inch thick and 896 THE EPICUREAN, with a pastry cutter remove some rounds two and a half inches in diameter; slit these half an inch deep with another pastry cutter an inch and a half in diameter, inserting a small kitchen knife on the side at a quarter of an inch from the bottom and with the tip cut around to detach the center only. Lay the prepared crusts on a baking tin, besprinkle over with sugar and glaze in a hot oven. As soon as this is accomplished and they become cold fill the empty centers with a salpicon of fruits mingled with apricot marmalade; decorate the edges of each crust with twelve small sticks of angelica, each an inch long. Lay the crusts on a dish, dress the peaches on top and heat in the oven twenty minutes before serving. Have a separate apricot sauce, adding a few spoonfuls of almond milk and flavored with maraschino (No. 3001.) (3081). CONDE PEACHES (PSclies Oond6). Blanch half a pound of rice; drain and replace it in the saucepan with a pint of cream and half of a vanilla stick; push the pan into a slack oven and allow it to cook for forty minutes. Re- move the rice, suppress the vanilla and put in six egg-yolks, three ounces of fresh butter, three ounces of sugar and a little salt. Butter and sugar a mold one inch high by seven inches in diameter; fill it to the top with rice and place it in a bain-marie for twenty minutes. Split in two twelve fine peaches, remove the kernels, blanch and peel off the skins, pare nicely and lay them to macerate in a hot thirty-degree vanilla syrup; one hour later drain the peaches on a cloth and wipe them well. Unmold the rice on a dish and dress the peaches over dome-shaped, cover them with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), bestrew with shredded pistachios and decorate the cavities between the peaches, and also the border of the rice, with angelica lozenges and split candied cher- ries; surround the base with small pear-shaped rice croquettes. Set the dressed dish in the oven for twenty minutes to heat well, and serve with an apricot sauce and Madeira wine diluted with vanilla syrup. (See Humboldt pudding, No. 3100.) (3082). MERINGUED PEACHES (Peches Meringues). Cook half a pound of rice in milk, proceeding the same as for rice with apples (No. 3115); finish with cream and butter. Cut six peaches in four, remove the kernels and plunge them into boiling water until the skins peel off, then drain on a cloth and cut them up into small quar- ters; besprinkle over with sugar. With the cooked rice form with a spoon any style of border, leaving a hollow in the center; inside of this dress the quartered peaches in layers, brushing them over with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and alternating with thin layers of the rice; the whole to be covered with the rice and this with a layer of meringue (No. 140); smooth the surface, deco- rate with meringue, dredge with fine sugar and dry in a very slow oven for twenty minutes. (3083). RICHELIEU PEACHES (Peches a la Richelieu). Butter some half -inch high flawn rings, having them two and a half inches in diameter; line with fine paste (No. 135), and cut it off even with the edge, then raise it up to form a crest, which must be pinched all around. Leave them in a cool place for fifteen minutes; egg over twice and prick the bottoms in several places; line the inside with buttered paper, fill up with dry rice, then cook in a hot oven and remove as soon as done; empty out and brush over the exteriors with egg-yolks and return to the oven for an instant to color the egg. Dress on around dish and line the inside with peach marmalade (No. 3675), then fill up with frangipane cream (No. 44) into which has been mixed some crushed macaroons moistened with maraschino. Smooth the surfaces well and dress on top of each a well-drained preserved half peach the same size as the small flawns; cover over with apricot or peach marmalade and then decorate with candied cherries and fanciful cuts of angelica; fill the centers with a salpicon of pineapple, plums and pears cut in quarter-inch squares, the whole to be mixed with apricot marmalade. Keep them warm and serve separately a peach syrup with maraschino. (3084), STEVENS PEACHES (Peches a la Stevens), Infuse a vanilla bean for one hour in a quart of boiling milk; take it out and return the mPk to the fire; at the first boil drop into it like rain half a pound of tapioca; allow it to boil up once or twice, then finish cooking on the side of the range without allowing it to boil; add to it two ounces of sugar and four eggs, beating them in one by one. Butter some timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137), cover the bottoms with a ring of quince paste and fill the center of this ring with a round of greengage cut out with a cutter, then fill up the timbales with the prepared tapioca and SWEET ENTREMETS. 897 poach in a bain-marie for thirty minutes. When firm unmold and dress in a circle on a round dish; fill the center of this circle with a compote of peaches, decorating the top with fruits. Keduce the syrup used for competing the peaches and with it make a sauce, adding peach marmalade and maraschino. (3085), PEAES FEEEIEEE (Poires Ferriere). Peel some pears; hollow them with a vegetable spoon and cook in a light syrup; drain on a sieve and stuff them with powdered macaroons moistened with a little Curacoa; cover them with a coating of fine apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and bestrew with finely chopped pistachios. Butter and sugar a surtout mold and fill it to the top with rice and cream flavored with vanilla (No. 160) and finished with a few egg-yolks; set the mold in a sautoir with water reaching to half its height and put this into a slack oven to get firm; then unmold on a dish. Dress on the edge of the rice a circle of greengages alternated with small apple-shaped rice croquettes having their stalks made of pieces of angelica; range the pears mside of this circle dressed in a pyramid, and a moment before serving push the dish in the oven to heat well; serve separately the following sauce: Take very ripe pears; peel and cut in quarters, then cook them to a compote with some thirty-degree syrup; when the fruit is well cooked strain through a fine sieve to obtain a pulp; dilute this with the syrup in which they were boiled, adding also a few spoonfuls of kirsch. Sturtout molds are made of different sizes as follows: About three inches in diameter by half an inch high, or six inches in diameter by three-quarters of an inch high. (3086), LOMBAEDE PEAES STUTFED (Poires Farcies a la Lombarde). Peel one dozen medium-sized pears, leave on a part of the stalk and cut them across in two at two-thirds of their height; scoop them out with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) and cook in a light syrup. As soon as they are done drain, wipe and stuff them with a salpicon of fruits mingled with pear marmalade and flavored with kirsch, and put them together again into their original shape. Dress a layer of rice and cream with vanilla (No. 160), finished with a few egg-yolks, on the bottom of a dish; arrange the pears in a circle on the edges of this and fill the center with some stewed apples cut into balls with a vegetable spoon, some candied cherries washed in hot water and pineapple cut in dice, the whole to be diluted with a little vanilla syrup. Serve separately a sauce made of straw- berry pulp diluted with as much syrup and flavored with maraschino. (3087), PIE, APPLE, PEAOH OE EHUBAEB (Tarte aux Pommes, aux Poches ou a la Ehubarbe). Prepare a tart paste (No. 149). Cut into quarters six or eight very ripe apples or fine, tender peaches; range them in layers in a pie dish, besprinkle with sugar, and dress them in a dome form. Wet the edges of the dish and cover it with a band of the paste, half an inch wide by an eighth of an inch in thickness; wet this band also with a fine brush, and cover the fruits and this band with a rolled-out flat of the same paste; press it down on the base of the dome, and then on the band, so as to have the two adhere. Cut the paste even with the edge of the dish, and scallop it all around with a small knife, pressing the paste heavily with the left thumb, and cutting it at short intervals from the bottom to the top to raise the gash slightly, so that when cooking the paste will rise in relief. Brush over the top with water, and decorate with a few fanciful cuts of the same paste, then egg the surface with beaten eggs. Stand the pie on a small baking tin and push it into a slack oven to cook for forty-five minutes, then bestrew with sugar, and leave to glaze in a hot oven. Instead of egging the pie may be simply moistened with water and lightly covered with powdered sugar. Rhubarb Pie. Select fine tender stalks of rhubarb. Remove the leaves, wash and peel the stalks, then cut them up transversely in pieces three-quarters of an inch long; arrange these in layers in a pie dish intermingled with sugar, and cover and finish the same as the above apple or peach pies. (3088), PIE, MAEEOW FEANGIPANE (Tourte Frangipane a la Moelle). Wet an eight-inch diameter tart plate and cover with a flat made of the parings of puff paste (No. 146) an eighth of an inch thick; moisten the edges with a brush, lay all around a band of puff paste a quarter of an inch thick by three-quarters of an inch wide, and press the band down on the flat to have the two adhere, and fasten the two ends together. Put in a vessel three ounces of flour and five ounces of sugar; dilute with four eggs, dropping in one at a time, to have the whole very smooth, but in case this fails then strain through a fine wire sieve; increase the proportions of this preparation with one pint of boiling milk, and pour the whole into a saucepan to thicken on the fire: when this is accomplished remove and add two ounces of melted marrow. Leave cool, and 898 THE; EPICUREAN. ttith this fill the pie up as far as the band; over these place devices of puff paste, egg over ar.d push the pie into a hot oven to cook it. When done, take out, sprinkle the surface with fine sugar, and return to the oven for a few moments longer, in order to have this glaze. Thu; pie is to be served hot, as soon as removed from the oven. (3089). MINCE PIE ("Mince Pie"). Take a tin pie plate and line it with foundation paste (No. 135); on the edge fasten a puff paste (N"o. 146) band three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness and three-quarters of an inch wide; fill the hollow in the plate with mincemeat (No. 117), wet the edge and cover over with a puff paste flat the same diameter, fastening it on firmly to the edges, egg the surface and trace on top some fanciful designs with the tip of a small knife; pinch all around and push in theoveri to bake for an hour to an hour and a quarter. As soon as done remove to the oven door, bestrew with tine sugar and replace it in the oven for a few moments to glaze. (3090). PINEAPPLE, CAROLINA AND WITH KIOE WITH OEEAM (Ananas Caroline et Ananas au Biz a la Creme). Peel a pineapple neatly; remove the core with a column tube and split it lengthwise in two. Cut one of these halves into very small thin bands, each one being an inch and a quarter long by half an inch wide, and cut the other half into even slices an eighth of an inch thick. Put the sliced pineapple into a vessel and cover it with a cold twenty-five degree syrup, and three hours later drain off this syrup to add to it a little sugar melted in a small quantity of water, and cook it again to thirty-two degrees. Let it get cold, then flavor with a little maraschino; pour it once more over the pineapple. Two hours after drain the small bands on a cloth and wipe them carefully. Butter twelve small timbale molds (No. 1, Fig. 137), cover the bottoms with a ring cut from angelica and place a candied cherry in the center; decorate the sides with the pineapple bands overlapping each other, and fill the timbales as far as the top with rice and cream (No. 160), flavored with vanilla and finished with a few egg-yolks. Keep these timbales in a bain-marie for thirty-five minutes. Place the even slices of pineapple to drain, wipe dry and cover with a light layer of apricot marma- lade (No. 3675) flavored with kirsch. Dress the mnnolded timbales in the center of a round dish and range the pineapple in slices around, one overlapping the other; bestrew with finely chopped pistachios and decorate with angelica lozenges and candied cherries. Set the dish in the oven for a few moments to heat the whole and serve with the syrup used to steep the pineapple, flavored with maraschino and then strained through a fine wire sieve into a sauce-boat. Pineapple ivith Rice with Cream. Have some rice with cream (No. 160) flavored with orange, dress it in the center of a dish and garnish around it with slices of pineapple a quarter of FIG. 578. an inch thick, four inches in diameter and cut in four, having prepared them as follows: Place them in a copper basin and throw over them a thirty degree syrup and allow to infuse for an hour; drain. Pound the parings and mix them with the syrup in which the pineapples were infused; pass through a sieve and serve as a sauce. (3091). POUPELIN (Poupelin). Pour one pint of water into a saucepan, adding a pinch of salt, an ounce of sugar and two ounces of butter; set the saucepan on the fire and at the first boil fill up the liquid with as much flour as it can possibly absorb; then dry it on the fire, proceeding the same as a cream cake paste (No. 132). Afterward incorporate six whole eggs, one at a time, and six yolks, working the paste thoroughly. Pour this preparation into a buttered charlotte mold; cook in a slack oven, ind when done unmold and allow to cool on a grate; empty the inside only, leaving a crust a quarter of an inch in thickness, and fill the empty interior with frangipane cream (No. 44), alternat- SWEET ENTREMETS. 899 ing with a layer of salpicon of fruits. Keturn it to the oven for half an hour and just when pre- pared to serve remove and turn it over on a dish. Serve an apricot and kirsch sauce (No. 3001) in a sauce tureen at the same time. (3092). PUDDING A LA BENVENUTO (Feuding a la Benvenuto). Cook five to six large pancakes and cut them up into inch- wide bands. Butter a dome-shaped cylindrical mold and line it with these bands, one overlapping the other. Put seven ounces of flour in a saucepan v/ith one pint of boiling milk and thicken it on the fire to obtain a smooth paste; remove it at once and add to it two ounces of butter, a pinch of salt, four ounces of sugar, two ounces of grated cocoanut laid on a paper-covered baking sheet and slightly roasted in the oven, the peel of one lemon and eight raw egg-yolks; return it to the fire, stirring continuously, and as soon as the preparation attains consistency incorporate into it slowly the well-beaten whites of five eggs. With this fill up the mold, alternating it with layers of pancake parings, first covered with apple jelly (No. 3668) and then rolled up. Set the mold into a saucepan with boiling water reaching to half its height and place it on the range; when the water boils, finish cooking in a slow oven for forty-five minutes. As soon as this is accomplished take out the pudding, let it stand for five minutes, then unmold it on a dish and serve at once with a sauce-boat of orange syrup thickened with arrowroot and flavored with maraschino. (3093). PUDDING A LA BRADLEY (Ponding a la Bradley). Soak one pound of bread-crumbs in hot milk; extract all the moisture and place it in a sauce- pan, pouring over it a few spoonfuls of raw cream. Stir briskly with a spoon and add twenty-four egg-yolks, ten ounces of sugar, ten ounces of butter, a little at a time, twelve tablespoonfuls of frangipane (No. 44), a grain of salt, a grated orange peel, a pound and a quarter of Smyrna raisins and eight ounces of candied pineapple cut up in small squares, and lastly fifteen well-beaten egg- whites. With this preparation fill three-quarters full some buttered and floured pudding molds; place them in a deep baking pan containing boiling water and poach for one hour in the bain-marie in a slack oven. Serve with a Sabayon with California wine (No. 3096). This quantity is sufficient for twenty persons. (3094). MELLOW PUDDING, APRICOT SAUCE (Ponding Moellenx, Sance anx Abricots.) Skin half a pound of suet and pass it twice through the machine (Fig. 47); pound it with five ounces of beef marrow and pass it through a sieve; put it into a vessel with fourteen ounces of powdered sugar and beat up for ten minutes with a spoon, then add two whole eggs and from fifteen to eighteen yolks, little by little, five ounces of white bread-crumbs soaked in hot milk and well pressed, pounded and diluted with a little raw cream and then passed through a sieve, and lastly add four or five spoonfuls of brandy, salt, grated lemon peel and one pound of candied fruits cut in quarter-inch squares and ten ounces of Smyrna raisins. Put a little of this preparation in a small timbale mold and poach it in a bain-marie to judge whether its consistency be correct. Butter some plain or cylindrical molds, flour them over and fill them three-quarters full with the preparation; place these molds in a deep baking tin with hot water and poach for one hour in a slack oven. Let stand for ten minutes and then unmold on a dish and cover with apricot and rum sauce (No. 3001). This quantity is sufficient for twenty persons. (3095). CABINET PUDDING A LA ROYALE (Ponding Cabinet ^ la Royale). Butter a square, hinged mo ld and fill it three-quarters full with Savarin paste (No. 148); jfeave it to rise in a mild temperature and when it reaches to a quarter of an inch from the top close the cover and bake in a slack oven. As soon as it is done unmold and leave set till the following day. Butter and sugar a cylindrical timbale mold. Cut up the stale Savarin cake in quarter -inch thick slices and cover one side with apricot marmalade (No. 3675); cut some of these into inch-wide bands the same height as the mold and fasten them on their uncovered side all around the inside of the mold, having them standing upright and overlapping each other; cut the remainder of the slices into dice and use them to fill up the mold in alternate layers with candied fruits also cut dice-shaped and macaroons. Put in a vessel twelve egg-yolks, two whole eggs, six ounces of sugar and two ounces of orange sugar; beat the whole together and dilute with a pint of milk and a pint of cream; pass it through a wire sieve. Pour this preparation slowly into the mold until well filled, then leave it to soak for several minutes; lay the mold in a saucepan with water reaching to half its height and cook it in a slack oven for an hour and a quarter; take it from the oven and let stand for a few moments, then unmold it on a dish and cover over with apricot mar- malade. Serve with a sauce-boat of Sabayon with Marsala sauce (No. 3096). 900 THE EPICUREAN. (3096). CABINET PUDDING WITH SABAYON (Pouding Cabinet au Sabayon), Prepare a Genoese cake mixture the same as for No. 3239; pour and spread it on a baking sheet, covered with buttered paper, in a layer half an inch thick, and bake it in a slow oven; when done, remove and invert it on a grate, lift off the paper and let get cold. Wash three-quarters of a pound of candied fruits in hot water, such as pears, apricots, plums, orange peel and cherries; cut them up into quarter-inch dice, and lay them in a vessel; mix with a few crushed macaroons, and pour a few spoonfuls of rum over the whole. Butter and sugar a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150), place in its bottom thin slices of the Genoese cake, overlapping each other, and scatter on top a part of the fruits and macaroons; on these lay more slices of cake, then more fruit, proceeding the same as before, and continue the operation until the mold is full. Break ten egg-yolks into a vessel, beat in four ounces of sugar, and add the grated peel of one lemon; mix with a whisk, and dilute this preparation with a quart of cream, then run the whole through a fine sieve. Pour it over the pudding, filling it well, and let it soak thoroughly for several minutes, then place it in a bain-marie and when the water has reached boiling point push it. into a slack oven to cook for one hour. Un- mold the pudding on a dish, cover it with Madeira Sabayon sauce, and serve more of it separately. For the Sabayon, put half a pound of sugar and eight egg-yolks in a bain-marie, set it on the fire, and whip the preparation until it becomes frothy, then add half a pint of Madeira or other wine, and continue to whip until the sauce is very light and begins to thicken, then remove it at once from the bain-marie, and serve. (3097). COUNTESS PUDDING (Pouding a la Comtesse). Prepare a small biscuit preparation the same as for lady fingers (No. 3377); spread it out on a sheet of buttered paper to the thickness of three-sixteenths of an inch, and cook in a slack oven, being careful to keep it soft. As soon as done remove from the oven, take off the paper and cut the cake into four-inch wide bands down its entire length; cover each one of these bands with a layer of strawberry marmalade passed through a sieve, and roll them up into cylindricals an inch and a half in diameter; wrap them at once in paper to tighten and keep firm, and let them rest for one hour, then cut them into slices a quarter of an inch thick. Butter a dome-shaped cylindrical mold, and with the rolled slices of cake cover the interior sides, then fill the empty hollow with a Saxony souffle pudding preparation (No. 3107); place it in a saucepan with boiling water to half its height and let come to a boil, then remove the saucepan from the fire, and push it into a slack oven. After forty minutes take it out and let cool off for a few moments, then unmold on a dish, and cover with hot apricot marmalade (No. 3675). Serve a sauceboat of Richelieu and liquor sauce made as follows: Heat a pint of thirty -degree syrup, and remove it from the fire, thicken with a little arrowroot dissolved in cold water, and add a few cherries (demi-sucre) and shredded pis- tachios; flavor with kirsch. (3098). FEANKLYN PUDDING (Pouding a la Pranklyn). Put half a pound of butter into a vessel, beat it to a cream, and add to it seven egg-yolks, one at a time. When the preparation has become frothy put with it gradually six ounces of peeled and dried almonds that have been pounded and rubbed through a sieve, six ounces of sugar, six ounces of bread-crumbs, and eight ounces of candied fruits, such as candied cherries cut in two, pineapple and orange peel cut in dice, and finally six well-beaten egg-whites. Pour this prepara- tion into a cylindrical timbale mold (Fig. 150), and place this in a sautoir with water to half its height; set it on the fire to come to a boil, then push it into a slack oven. At the expiration of forty-five minutes remove the pudding from the oven, let it rest for a few moments, then unmold it on a dish; cover it with orgeat sauce, and serve with a bowlful of the same. The orgeat sauce is made by cooking four ounces of sugar to " small crack " (No. 171), then adding a gill of almond milk (No. 4), and boiling once. Thicken the sauce with a spoonful of fecula diluted with a little water and half a gill of rich cream. (3099), PUDDING A LA DE FEEESE (Pouding & la de Preese). Chop up and pass through a sieve five ounces of beef marrow; place it in a vessel and beat it up to a cream with five ounces of sugar, adding singly eight egg-yolks and three whole eggs, and have the preparation very light. Then incorporate one pound of white meat taken from a chicken, pounded with two and a half gills of cream, six ounces of well-reduced apple marmalade, twelve ounces of Smyrna raisins thoroughly washed in hot water, and finally six stiffly whipped agg- SWEET ENTREMETS. 901 whites. Pour this preparation into a dome-shaped cylindrical pudding mold, well buttered and sugared. Stand the mold in a saucepan with hot water to reach to half its height and bring to a boil, then put it into a slack oven. Take out the pudding at the end of forty-five minutes and let stand five or six minutes; then unmold it on a dish and cover withasabayon sauce (No. 3096), well flavored with Madeira, and serve more of this sauce in a sauce-boat. (3100). HUMBOLDT PUDDING (Ponding a la Hnmboldt). Cook five or six large pancakes; cover them on one side with a layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and cut them up into bands each an inch and a quarter wide and through their entire length. Butter a dome-shaped cylindrical mold and fasten the pancake bands on their uncovered side against the sides of the mold, overlapping each other. Cover the pancake parings with apricot marma- lade and roll them into small rolls, then cut them in half-inch long bits. Beat eight ounces of butter to a cream, add to it, one by one, four whole eggs and two whites; when this becomes frothy, put in four ounces of sugar, then four ounces of flour and four ounces of peeled almonds dried and pounded with four ounces of sugar, afterward passed through a sieve. Mix the whole properly and lastly incorporate into it three well-beaten egg-whites. Pour this preparation into the pan- cake-lined mold, alternating it with layers of the small rolls previously prepared; when the mold is full set it in a bain-marie and allow the water to come to a boil on the fire, then cook it in a slack oven for forty-five minutes. As soon as the pudding is done take it out and let it stand for a few moments before unmolding it on a dish, brush it over with hot apricot marmalade and serve with a sauce-boat of apricot sauce. Place two gills of apricot marmalade in a saucepan, diluting it with two gills of syrup; set it on the fire to boil up once, then strain through a fine wire sieve and add two gills of good Madeira wine. (3101). ITALIAN PUDDING (Ponding a 1'Italienne), Soften in boiling water half a pound of Smyrna raisins and half a pound of candied orange peel cut in small dice. Place them in a vessel with half a pound of candied cherries washed in hot water and pouring over a few spoonfuls of rum leave them to marinate for one hour. Prepare a small quantity of Genoese cake preparation (No. 3239) finished with orange and spread it on a sheet of paper in a quarter of an inch thick layer, then bake it in a hot oven. As soon as done turn it over on a table, remove the paper and cover with a layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675;, then cut it up into inch and a half in diameter round pieces. Butter and sugar a cylindrical timbale mold (Fig. 150) and lay in the bottom a circle of these pieces, overlapping each other; scatter over the marinated fruits into which have been mingled a few crushed macaroons and on top dress another circle of the cake the same as the first, then more fruits and macaroons, and continue thus until the mold is full. Put into a vessel six egg-yolks, two whole eggs and four ounces of sugar, having a part of it flavored with orange; beat the whole well to mingle properly and dilute with a pint and a half of double cream and half a gill of rum; pass this through a wire sieve and pour it slowly into the mold until full, then cook the pudding in a bain-marie in a slack oven, and just when ready to serve unmold on a dish and pour over a frothy rum sauce (No. 3103), serving more of it sepa- rately. (3102). PEAOH PUDDING A LA CLEVELAND (Ponding de Peches a la Cleveland). Cut twenty sound peaches in four pieces; lay them in a vessel, FIG. 579. FIG. 580. sprinkle over with a handful of powdered sugar and let macerate for half an hour, tossing them about at frequent intervals. Line a dome-shaped mold wider than its height with a very thin suet pudding paste (No. 2322); fill the inside with the quartered peaches, placing them in 902 THE EPICUREAN. layers and bestrewing brown sugar between each one. Cover the fruits with a round flat of the paste and fasten it solidly to the sides. Close the mold with its own lid and wrap it up in a cloth, theu plunge it into boiling water and let cook for an hour and a half, having it remain at a boiling degree during the whole time. Just when ready to serve re- move the mold, unwrap and invert the pudding on a dish and cover it over with a Madeira sauce with peaches, serving some of it separately. For the sauce have six to eight very ripe peaches; remove the stones, crush the fruit and adding a few spoonfuls of sugar and two gills of water let cook for a few moments. Strain this sauce through a fine wire sieve and add to it a few tablespoonfuls of maraschino. (3103). PLUM PUDDING, ST. GEORGE (Plum Ponding St. George). Place in a vessel one pound of beef kidney suet, very dry, free of fibers and chopped up very finely; one pound of seeded Malaga raisins; one pound of currants, cleaned and washed in plenty of water; one pound of bread-crumbs, sifted through a sieve; a quarter of a pound of candied lemon peel chopped up very fine; one pound of powdered sugar; four tablespoonfuls of flour; a quar- ter of an ounce of ground cinnamon; a quarter of an ounce of nut- meg and allspice; a pint of brandy and six eggs. Mix the whole well together. Dip a strong cloth, in cold water and wring it out to extract all its moisture; spread it open on a table and butter it liberally with butter softened to the consistency of cream; dredge FIG. 581. FIG. 582. over with sifted flour and shake the cloth to remove the excess of flour that has failed to adhere to the butter. Lay in the center of this cloth the above prepared mixture, form it in the shape of a ball, raise up the edges of the cloth bringing the four ends together and all around so as to enclose the preparation well, then tighten and tie firmly. Have on the fire a high saucepan filled to three-quarters of its height with water; when this boils plunge in the plum pudding and let cook for three hours, then remove it from the water. Have it stand for five minutes before cutting the string; undo the cloth carefully and invert the pudding on a hot dish; besprinkle it with sugar, pour over some brandy or rum and set it on the fire; serve immediately. Have a separate sauce-boat of frothy vanilla and rum sauce to be made as follows: Frothy Vanilla and Rum Sauce. Chop up half a pound of beef marrow, melt it in a bain- marie, then strain through a napkin into a bowl and whip it until it begins to froth, then add four ounces of fresh butter broken in small parts, four ounces of vanilla sugar (No. 3165) and lastly, half a gill of rum; serve. (3104). PLUMERY PUDDING (Pouding a la Plumery). Pound four ounces of raw beef marrow, pass it through a sieve and place it in a vessel; beat it up to a cream, adding five egg-yolks and two whole eggs, one at a time. When this prepara- tion becomes creamy add to it four ounces of powdered almonds passed through a sieve, two ounces of cracker dust, three ounces of crushed macaroons, two ounces of bread-crumbs soaked in rum, two ounces of angelica and one ounce of orange peel, both washed in hot water and cut into quarter-inch squares. When all these ingredients have been properly mixed incorporate slowly into the whole four egg-whites beaten to a very stiff froth; pour this preparation into a cylindrical buttered and sugared mold and cook it in a bain-marie in a very slack oven. Just when pre- pared to serve unmold the pudding on a dish, cover it with apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and serve with a sauce-boat of apricot sauce prepared with almond milk. Apricot Sauce with Almond Milk. Have two gills of apricot pulp, four ounces of sugar and two gills of water placed in a saucepan; stand it on the fire and allow to cook for a few moments, then strain through a fine strainer and add one gill of almond milk (No. 4); return it to the saucepan and heat the sauce without boiling; just when prepared to serve add a tablespoonful of noyau liqueur. SWEET ENTREMETS. 903 (3105). KIOE PUDDING A LA BAGRATION (Ponding de Riz a la Bagration). Wash half a pound of rice; blanch it properly in plenty of water, drain and put it into a saucepan with one quart of milk and half a stick of vanilla; let it cook for forty minutes in the oven, then withdraw and suppress the vanilla; add to it three ounces of sugar, two ounces of butter, a pinch of salt , six yolks and one whole egg, mixing all well together. Stir in six ounces of candied fruits cut in quarter-inch dice, such as pears, greengages, pineapples, cherries, and lastly add three well-beaten egg-whites. Butter and sugar a dome-shaped cylindrical mold; fill it four-fifths full with the preparation and lay it in a saucepan with water to half its height; place it on the fire until the water boils, then in a slack oven to cook for fifty minutes. Remove the pudding from the fire, let it stand for five minutes, then unmold on a dish and cover with English cream vanilla sauce (No. 3004), having more of it served separately. (3106). EIOE PUDDING, FRUIT SAUCE (Ponding an Riz, Sauce anx Frnits). Wash one pound of rice; blanch and cook in two quarts of milk and cream, half of each, pro- ceeding the same as for rice pudding (No. 3105); when done sweeten with six ounces of sugar, finish it with a grated orange peel, a handful of chopped almonds, and two ounces of butter; remove it from the fire, and when almost cold incorporate fifteen to eighteen egg-yolks, one by one, without ceasing to beat up the preparation; add also twenty ounces of candied fruits cut in quarter-inch squares, and lastly twelve to fourteen egg-whites beaten to a stiff froth. With this fill five but- tered and floured molds; place them in a deep baking-pan with hot water, and poach the pud- dings for nearly one hour in a slack oven. At the last moment unmold on a dish, cover them liberally with apricot and kirsch sauce (No. 3001), and serve separately a sauce-boatful of Bischoff sauce; for this see fried cream Pamela (No. 3013). (3107). SAXONY PUDDINGKSOUFPLED (Ponding SoufflS UaSaxonne). Sift half a pound of flour into a saucepan and dissolve it with half a pint of boiling milk, into which has been infused half a vanilla bean; mix with this four ounces of butter and four ounces of sugar; set the saucepan on the fire and stir the mixture with a spatula until it detaches from the saucepan. Then remove it from the fire and beat in four ounces of butter and four ounces of vanilla sugar; continue to stir until it attains body, and let, it lose its greatest heat, then add at once ten egg-yolks, four ounces of candied fruits cut in quarter-inch dice, and six stiffly beaten egg-whites; pour this preparation into a dome-shaped mold with a tube in the center, and cook it in a bain-marie in a slack oven for forty-five minutes. As soon as done unmold the pudding on a dish, cover it over with a little apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and serve with a separate apricot sauce with noyau (No. 3100). (3108). SCOTCH PUDDING (Ponding a 1'Ecossaise), Soften twelve ounces of beef marrow at the oven door, without letting it melt. Pass it through a strainer and lay it in a bowl to beat to a cream, adding to it one by one ten egg-yolks, two whole eggs, also a pinch of salt, then put in fourteen ounces of bread-crumbs soaked in milk, two ounces of candied cherries cut in two, four ounces of candied orange and lemon peel cut in small three-sixteenth inch squares and half a gill of rum; lastly mix in ten egg-whites, beaten to a very stiff froth. Transfer this preparation into a buttered and sugared dome-shaped mold with a tube in its center; set it into a saucepan with water reaching to half its height, and place the saucepan on the fire for the water to come to a boil, then finish cooking in the oven for forty minutes. As soon as the pudding is done unmold it on a dish and cover over with apricot mar- malade (No. 3675) diluted with a little Madeira wine; serve with a sauce-boatful of sauce or punch made as follows: Put in a saucepan a gill and a half of brandy, a gill and a half of rum, a gill of vanilla syrup, the peel of a lemon and of an orange and a small bit of cinnamon. Just when ready to serve heat without boiling and then set it on the fire for a few seconds to burn out the alcohol; cover the saucepan at once to extinguish the fire, and serve. (3109). SCHILLER PUDDING (Ponding a la Schiller). Prepare twelve to fifteen large pancakes and with some of them line a liberally buttered cylin- drical mold (Fig. 150). Cover half of the remaining pancakes with a layer of apricot marmalade (No 3675), and the other half with frangipane cream (No. 43); roll these pancakes up separately into rolls and cut them into three-quarter inch thick slices; range these in alternate layers inside the 904 THE EPICUREAN. mold with a few candied cherries washed in hot water interspersed between. Put in a vessel twelve yolks and two whole eggs, also six ounces of vanilla sugar (No. 3165); beat up well and then stir in a quart of milk. Pass it through a fine wire strainer into the mold. Lay the mold in water reaching to half its height; set it on the fire and when it comes to a boil put it into a slack oven to cook for one hour; remove, let stand and unmoldon a dish; brush the pudding over with apricot marmalade and serve with a sauce-boat of English cream and vanilla sauce (No. 3004"). (3110). SPANISH PUDDING (Pouding a 1'Espagnole). Put four ounces of clarified butter into a saucepan and heat it well, then add to it eight ounces of white bread-crumbs and let it cook until it becomes a fine golden color, while stirring it from time to time with a spatula; withdraw the saucepan from the fire and dilute the preparation with a gill of milk and a gill of cream and dry it for a few moments over the fire. Add to it the peel of one lemon, a pinch of salt, a tablespoonful of rum, three ounces of sugar and six egg- yolks; stir well and lastly mix in the well-beaten whites of six eggs. Butter and sugar a dome-shaped cylindrical mold, fill it up with the preparation and place it in a saucepan with boiling water to half its height; set the saucepan on the fire to have the liquid come to a boil, then withdraw it at once and push it into a slack oven so that the pudding can cook for forty-five minutes. When this is accomplished take it out and let it stand from five to six minutes; unmold on a dish and cover with an English cream vanilla sauce (No. 3004) with rum added; serve more of the sauce apart. (3111), TYBOLEAN PUDDING (Pouding a la Tyrolienne), Soften five ounces of beef marrow, run it through a sieve into a vessel and beat it up to a cream, adding five egg-yolks and five whole eggs, one at a time. As this becomes frothy put into it six ounces of apricot marmalade (No. 3675), six ounces of grated chocolate, six ounces of lady finger crumbs soaked in a gill and three-quarters of double cream, three ounces of Smyrna raisins well cleansed and washed in hot water, and lastly beat in six very stiff egg-whites. Butter and sugar a dome-shaped mold with a cylindrical center, fill it with the preparation and place it in a bain-marie in a saucepan; bring the water to a boil, then push it into a slack oven to cook for forty to forty-five minutes; take it from the oven and let stand for a few moments before unmolding on a dish ; cover over with chocolate sauce and serve more of the same separately. Chocolate Sauce. Dilute two ounces of chocolate with two gills of water and a gill of vanilla syrup; let boil, then strain through a fine strainer and add one gill of rich cream. (3112), PUDDING WITH ALMONDS-LIGHT (Pouding Leger aux Amandes). Dissolve ten ounces of fine wheat and rice flour (half of each) in one and a half pints of almond milk (No. 4). Strain this liquid into a saucepan and add to it salt, half a pound of sugar and three ounces of butter. Cook the preparation, avoid all lumps and do not cease to stir until it detaches from the saucepan, then take it off and pour it into a vessel; incorporate with it slowly twelve egg-yolks, beating them in vigorously, and then add five ounces more butter, four ounces of FIG. 5&3. finely pounded almonds, the peel of an orange, and finally nine well-beaten egg-whites. Butter some dome-shaped pudding molds, having them wider than their height, cover the interior sides with small flat round pieces of lady fingers cut out with a cutter and fill the hollow space three- quarters full with the preparation; poach the puddings for fifty minutes in a bain-marie with the vessel covered, and before removing push them into a slack oven to dry the tops. Take them out SWEET ENTREMETS. 905 and unmold five minutes after on a hot dish; cover them lightly with an apricot sauce made with rum (No. 3001), and in each pudding insert a small hatelet composed of three graduated rounds of candied pineapple. Serve separately an apricot sauce mingled with almond milk, the same as for Plumery pudding (No. 3104). This quantity is sufficient for ten persons. (3113). PUDDING WITH BURNT ALMONDS-SOUFFLED (Feuding Soufflg aux Pralines). Sift six ounces of rice flour in a saucepan; dissolve it with a pint of boiling milk and thicken the preparation over the fire, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon; when it detaches from the side of the saucepan Take it off and add to it one ounce of butter, four ounces of burnt almonds ground to a dust and passed through a sieve, a pinch of salt, six ounces of sugar, eight egg-yolks, two tablespoon fuls of whipped cream, and finally six very stiffly whipped egg-whites. Butter and sugar a dome-shaped cylindrical mold, fill it up in layers, alternating the preparation with slices of Savoy biscuit or lady fingers soaked in maraschino and quarters of candied apricots well washed in hot water. When the mold is full set it in a bain-marie and let the water come to a boil, then finish cooking for forty minutes in a slow oven. As soon as the pudding is unmolded on a dish cover it with apricot sauce made with almond milk (No. 4) and maraschino, serving more of it in a bowl. For this sauce see light pudding with almond milk (No. 3104). (3114), PUDDING WITH HAZEL-NUTS-SOUFFLED Tending SoufflS aux Noisettes). Dilute in a saucepan seven or eight spoonfuls of rice focula with four to six gills of hazel-nut milk, prepared the same as almond milk (No. 4); add to it a grain of salt and a piece of butter; thicken the preparation over the fire, stirring it about with a spoon; after it attains the consistency of a souffle preparation remove and add to it a quarter of a pound of vanilla sugar (No. 3165) and a quarter of a pound of butter, then ten egg-yolks, one whole egg, two spoonfuls of whipped cream and four egg-whites beaten to a stiff froth. Butter a timbale mold, fill it with the preparation laid in alternate layers with slices of biscuit cut very thin, cover over with some apricot marmalade (No. 3675), and when the mold is full set it in a saucepan containing hot water to reach to half its height, then poach for three-quarters of an hour in a bain-marie. At the last moment unmold it on a dish and cover with English cream with almonds and vanilla (No. 42), serving more of the sauce (No. 3004) separately. (3115). EIOE WITH APPLES (Riz anx Pommes). Prepare some minced apples, the same as for an apple charlotte (No. 3008), not having them too sweet. Blanch eight ounces of picked and washed rice, drain on a sieve, refresh and put it in a saucepan with some milk; cook it slowly without stirring, keeping it slightly consistent, and lastly mix in four ounces of powdered lemon sugar, a few spoonfuls of cream and apiece of butter; remove to a much slower fire in order to allow the liquid to became entirely absorbed, then take up the rice with a spoon and place it in layers on a deep dish, alternating each one with a layer of the apples, giving the whole a dome shape, and finishing with the rice. Dredge the top with cinnamon or vanilla sugar and serve at once. Sugar Flavored with Vanilla. Have four ounces of vanilla beans, split them in two, chop and pound them in a mortar with a pound and a half of loaf sugar until exceedingly fine, then pass through a fine hair sieve. Keep in a hermetically closed box in a dry place until needed for use. (3116). RISSOLES WITH PRESERVES AND WITH ALMOND OREAM (Rissoles a la Oonfitnre et a la Oreme d'Amandes). Roll out into a square layer, an eighth of an inch in thickness, one pound of fine short paste (No. 135) or puff paste parings (No. 146); cut the edges straight and range on the top at desired distances apart small balls of any kind of thick marmalade; wet the paste to form the rissoles (No. 161), and when they are cut out press down the borders of the paste with the fingers in order to diminish its thickness, then cut the rissoles again with the same pastry cutter, so as to have them all alike, and fasten the paste together. Dip them in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and plunge into hot fat. Cook them slowly, drain and roll in vanilla sugar (No. 3165), then dress on a folded napkin. With Almond Cream. Prepare the rissoles the same as for the above, replacing the preserves by small balls of almond cream (No. 40) placed an inch and a half from the edges and at the same distance from one another; finish them exactly the same. 906 THE EPICUREAN. (3117). SAVARIN WITH APRICOTS (Savarin aux Abricots). Sift one pound of flour into a warm vessel, make a leaven with a quarter of the flour and half an ounce of yeast dissolved in tepid water; cover it over with a part of the flour and let rise in a mild heat. When it has risen to double its primitive volume remove from the warm place and break it up with the hand to make the sponge, giving the paste plenty of body. Mix into it gradu- ally eight whole eggs and six separate yolks, and working in the flour knead it vigorously for ten minutes, then add slowly half a pound of melted butter, six ounces of sugar, a grain of salt, lemon peel and lastly four spoonfuls of raw cream. Take up the paste in small parts with the hands and fill one or several buttered Savarin molds three-quarters full; let rise as high as the edges in a mild temperature, then bake the cakes in a moderate oven. As soon as they are removed moisten them with syrup infused with lemon or orange peel and any desired liqueur, then drain on a dish, cover with Madeira apricot sauce, filling the hollows with hot stewed apricots. Serve an apricot sauce with Madeira apart, the same as for Humboldt pudding (No. 3100). (3118). SOUFFLE' OF CHESTNUTS WITH VANILLA (Souffle a e Marrons a la Vamiie). Skin half a pound of raw chestnuts, then grate them; pound three ounces of almonds with four ounces of powdered vanilla sugar (No. 3165). Beat in a bowl four ounces of fresh butter, mixing into it six or seven egg-yolks, and when the preparation is frothy add the chestnuts, sugar and almonds, then five or six beaten whites. Pour all this into a buttered souffle pan (Fig. 182) and cook it for three-quarters of an hour in a slack oven; glaze over with sugar before removing and serve without delay. (3119). SOUFFLE OF CHOCOLATE (Souffle au Chocolat). Melt in a saucepan at the oven door, in a little tepid water, four ounces of grated chocolate; remove and pour it into a bowl to smooth nicely; mix into it five or six spoonfuls of vanilla sugar (No. 3165), beating it in vigorously, then add four or five spoonfuls of the following preparation: Place in a tureen two tablespoonfuls of flour, a pinch of arrowroot, two tablespoon fuls of sugar and a little salt; dilute with half a gill of milk; strain into a saucepan and add two tablespoonfuls of melted butter and a little vanilla; stir on the fire until it boils and when smooth reduce till it is consistent and detaches from the pan; take out the vanilla and let partly cool. Add eight raw egg-yolks, two ounces of melted butter, four beaten whites and three spoonfuls of whipped cream. When all these ingredients are well incorporated pour the preparation into one or two souffle pans (Fig. 182) without filling them too high. Set the pan on a small baking sheet and bake the souffles in a slack oven from twenty to twenty-five minutes. (3120). SOUFFLES IN CASES WITH VANILLA OR ORANGE-SMALL (Petits Souffles en Caisses a la Vanille ou a 1'Orange). Put into a vessel four spoonfuls of flour, a pinch of fecula, four spoonfuls of sugar and a grain of salt; dilute with two and a half gills of milk, then strain it into a saucepan, adding a lump of butter the size of an egg and a piece of vanilla; stir on a slow fire until it comes to a boil and when smooth reduce until it detaches easily from the saucepan, then take out the vanilla and let the preparation get almost cold before stirring in another piece of butter and five to six egg- FlG - 584 - FlG - 585 - yolks one after the other, while continuing to beat briskly; lastly add the beaten whites and three spoonfuls of whipped cream. With this mixture fill some souffle cases (Fig. 584) two-thirds full, range them on a small baking sheet and place in a slack oven to cook for twenty minutes. Serve just as quickly as they leave the oven. With Orange. Instead of vanilla, flavor the souffles with two tablespoonfuls of orange sugar (No. 3165). (3121), SOUFFLE OF RICE WITH MARASCHINO (Souffle de Riz au Marasquin). Boil six ounces of rice in plenty of water; drain and set it in a vessel and pour a little maraschino over. Prepare a vanilla souffle preparation (No. 3120) and after the egg-whites have been mixed in, dress it in layers in a souffle pan (Fig. 182), alternating each one with a small part of the well-drained rice. When the souffle pan is three-quarters full place it on a baking sheet and push it into a well heated oven; three minutes later remove to split the shape of a cross on top and return it to the oven to let cook for twenty-five minutes more, glazing it over with fresh butter. Serve as soon as it is taken from the oven, as souffles should never be left waiting to be served. SWEET ENTREMETS. 907 (3122). SOUFFLE WITH RASPBERRIES (SoufflS aux Framboises). Place seven ounces of rather stiff raspberry jelly in a small basin and mix slowly in with it seven ounces of powdered sugar so as to obtain a consistent preparation, then incorporate one after the other four to five unbeaten egg-whites, stirring up the whole vigorously with a whisk for twenty minutes. When this is frothy and firm color it with a few drops of vegetable carmine (No. 37) and pour it into a souffle pan (Fig. 182) to cook for forty minutes in a very slack oven. Five minutes before removing the souffle from the oven glaze it with sugar, set it on a hot dish and cover with a large hot dish cover; serve it immediately. (3123). TIMBALE A LA FIGARO (Timbale a la Figaro), Cut one pound of short paste (No. 135) into four pieces; roll them on the table into long quarter- inch thick strings and dip these strings as fast as they are done in melted clarified butter; arrange them in a spiral around the inside of a timbale mold, being careful to fasten the ends securely with beaten eggs. Leave the timbale rest for half an hour in a cool place, then fill it up in alternate layers of apples cut in quarters, cooked in butter, and masked with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and fran- gipane (No. 44) with almonds. Cover over with a flat of short paste, egg the surface, and set it in the oven to cook for forty-five minutes. One moment before serving turn the timbale out on a dish, cover it with hot apricot marmalade, and strew over finely chopped pistachios and almonds, then decorate the top with rosette of angelica lozenges, having a greengage in the center; surround the base of the dome with brandied geeengages. Heat the whole for ten minutes in the oven, and serve with an apricot kirsch sauce (No. 3001). (3124), ZEPHYE OF RICE WITH PINEAPPLE (Zephyr de Eiz a 1'Ananas), Cook half a pound of blanched rice in milk; when sweetened withdraw it to a slower fire to let attain more consistency, and then finish with a large piece of fresh butter divided in pats. Ten minutes later incorporate into it two or three spoonfuls of crushed chestnuts and six egg-yolks, one after the other, and lastly the half of five beaten whites mixed with three spoonfuls of whipped cream. Add to this preparation five to six spoonfuls of candied pineapple cut in small dice, and pour the whole into a timbale mold previously buttered and glazed with fine sugar and fecula. Lay the mold in a saucepan on a small trivet with hot water reaching to a third of its height, and boil the liquid; remove it to a much lower fire or else to a slack oven, and cook the zephyr for three- quarters of an hour. Finally unmold it on a dish and surround with small slices of preserved pine- apple; cover these with vanilla syrup, and serve a sauce-boat -of pineapple sauce as for Roman triumvirate fritters (No. 3050). SWEET ENTKEMETS-COLD (Entremets de Douceur-Froids), (3125). GLAZED APPLES (Pommes Glares), Choose a few small, even-sized apples; empty the centers with a column tube five-eighths of an inch in diameter, peel and cook them in slightly sweetened acidulated water. In order to have them remain whole it is advisable to cook scarcely boiling, and to keep them covered. FIG. 586. Drain and place them in a vessel, pouring a little syrup over; leave to cool. "When cold drain and cover them several times with a brush dipped in lukewarm apricot marmalade (No. 3675) so that it adheres to the apples, and cover them completely; decorate around the tops with a circle of small dots of angelica. Fill the hole in the center with candied cherries or fruit jelly, such as quince, currant or apple, or use all mingled together; arrange the apples in a pyramid on a dish. 908 THE EPICUREAN. (3126). GLAZED MARMALADE OP APPLES (Marmelade dePommes Glacee), Cut a few good russet apples in four, peel and put them into a saucepan with a little water; dissolve on a slow fire while covered, then pass through a sieve; return the puree to the saucepan with two-thirds as much powdered sugar and a tied bunch of lemon peel. Set the saucepan on the fire and let the marmalade reduce while stirring unceasingly with a spoon. When perfect remove the lemon peel, and after it is nearly cold pour it into a dish, smooth it dome-shaped with a knife and sprinkle fine sugar over the top; glaze this with a skewer heated in the fire, cool off and surround the base with triangles of biscuit, placing a flat rosette of the same on the summit of the apples. (3127), F.KOTHY PUREE OF APPLES (PurSe de Pommes Mousseuse). Peel six fine apples, cut them up small and cook in a covered saucepan, keeping them very white and adding four spoonfuls of water, a bit of lemon peel and two cloves. When melted press them through a fine sieve, then add seven or eight dissolved gelatine leaves, the juice of four or five lemons and eight or ten ounces of powdered sugar; beat the preparation well on ice with a whip until it whitens and becomes quite frothy, then add a salpicon of candied fruits, and pour this into a mold incrusted in chopped ice. One hour later dip the mold in hot water, unmold the contents on a cold dish and pour over a cold apple syrup flavored with lemon peel. Apple Syrup. This syrup is made with the liquid in which apples have been cooked and half its weight of sugar added; flavor with lemon or orange peel, boil until it attains the consistency of light jelly, then strain and cool. It is now ready to be used. (3128), BUCKET OF WAFFLES WITH CREAM (Baquet de Gaufres & la Oreme). Prepare a waffle preparation the same as for the timbale of wafers (No. 3222); spread it in a layer on a waxed baking sheet, having it about one-sixteenth of an inch in thickness, ^nd bake it partly, then remove from the oven and cut from it twenty-five uprights, each three-quarters of an inch wide and four inches long, and two others an inch and a half wide by five and a quarter inches long; bore a hole with a thin tube five-eighths of an inch in diameter through these two, and also cut a round bottom piece six inches in diameter. As soon as all these are cut return the sheet to the oven to finish baking the waffles; when of a fine color remove and leave to get thoroughly cold on a marble. Have a timbale mold six inches in diameter; lay the round piece on the bottom and arrange the high pieces against the sides, having the two longest and bored ones exactly opposite to each other, fastening them all on with cooked sugar. When cold unmold the bucket and encircle it with two bands of almond paste (No. 125) in imitation of hoops, having one slightly above the bottom and the other a short distance from the top; slip the bucket on a dish and when ready to serve fill it full of whipped cream flavored with vanilla. (3129). BASKET OF NOUGAT WITH CREAM (Oorbeille en Nougat & la Oreme), To prepare this dessert it requires a basket mold that opens in two or three parts; oil it over with a brush. Peel half a pound of almonds, wipe dry and mince them crossways; dry in a slack heater for twenty-four hours. Put a quarter of a pound of sugar in a copper pan with the juice of two lemons; stand it on a slow fire, stir with a wooden spoon till melted and of a nice yellow tint, FIG. 587. then mix in the very hot almonds; take from the fire when the almonds and sugar form one mass. Put a part of this on an oiled baking sheet, roll it out thin with the blade of a knife, and then apply it to the inside surfaces of the basket mold; close and clip off all the nougat extending beyond the edges, and when very cold unmold and trim it with the nougat rings to serve as handles. Fill it with whipped cream flavored with vanilla, having fresh strawberries mingled in; stick here and there small pieces of angelica and dress the basket on a folded napkin. SWEET ENTREMETS. 909 (3130). BASKETS OF ORANGES WITH JELLY (Paniers d'Oranges a la Gelee). Select twelve even-sized oranges, cut them into basket shapes, leaving a handle on the center; empty them with a vegetable spoon (Fig. 91) and around them make a small border, scoring the peel with a knife or small punch made for this purpose (see Andalusian Sherbet, No. 2321); plunge these into boiling water for a minute; remove at once and throw them into cold water to refresh, then suppress all the inside white skin so that the jelly cannot acquire any of its bitterness. Stand them upright on a baking sheet covered with chopped ice and as soon as cold fill them with orange jelly (No. 3180), but slightly thickened and colored with a little carmine; put the sheet and its contents into the ice-box so that the jelly stiffens thoroughly. Dress on a folded napkin or on a stand and trim the handles with variegated ribbons. (3131). CHOCOLATE BAVAEOIS (Bavarois au Chocolat). Make an English cream with a pint of milk, four egg-yolks, four ounces of sugar, and half a vanilla bean, proceeding the same as for No. 3135; as soon as finished pour it slowly over two ounces of chocolate dissolved in a few spoonfuls of water, then add one ounce of gelatine melted in a little water. As soon as the chocolate and gelatine are both well dissolved strain the whole through a fine strainer into a tin basin and set it on the ice, stirring constantly until cold, and when it begins to thicken take it off and incorporate three pints of whipped cream, having it firm and well drained. Fill a jelly mold incrusted on ice with this preparation; let the bavarois harden for two hours, and when serving dip the mold quickly into hot water and invert on a cold dish. (3132). BAVAROIS IN SURPRISE (Bavarois en Surprise). Coat a jelly mold incrusted in pounded ice with maraschino jelly (No. 3186), and decorate the bottom arid sides with white split almonds, then coat the mold once more with a thick layer of chocolate bavarois preparation (No. 3131); as soon as this is set fill the hollow center with a vanilla bavarois, into which has been mixed a few spoonfuls of freshly peeled and cut up pistachios. Lay a round of paper over and cover with a deep lid filled with chopped ice; leave the bavarois to get thoroughly cold for an hour and a half. Just when ready to serve dip it speedily into hot water and turn it over on a cold dish. Surround the base with small Genoese cakes (No. 3307) iced with strawberry fondant (No. 3652) flavored with kirsch, and decorate with a rosette of halved pistachios. (3133). BAVAROIS WITH MERINGUES (Bavarois aux Meringues). Prepare a vanilla bavarois, the same as for No. 3135; pour it into a dozen oval ballotine molds and set them in the ice-box to have their contents get quite hard. When ready to serve unmold the bavarois, and range them in a circle on a dish, keeping them a slight distance apart. On either side of each one place two small meringue shells (No. 116) well scooped out and very dry. (3134). RASPBERRY BAVAROIS (Bavarois aux Pramboises). Put into a bowl one pint of raspberry pulp strained through a tammy, dilute it with three or four gills of cold, thick syrup flavored with lemon and an equal quantity of clarified isinglass. Add to this preparation the strained juice of two oranges. Put a small part on ice to judge of its solidity (it must be rather thick than otherwise), and when perfect pour it into a small untinned copper pan, and thicken it on ice while stirring. As soon as it has acquired the consistency of a thick, smooth sauce, take it off and add to it a pint and a half of firm and well- drained whipped cream. Use this preparation to fill either a jelly mold (Fig. 149) or a plain cylin- drical mold incrusted in chopped ice; cover with a piece of paper and lay on a deep cover, filling it with more chopped ice, then leave to harden for one hour. Unmold on a cold dish after dipping the mold in hot water. Various bavaroises of different fruit pulps can be prepared the same way, such as pineapple, mandarins, currants, almonds and fresh nuts. The mold may be coated on the inside with a light layer of oil of sweet almonds, thus avoiding the necessity of dipping it in hot water. (3135). VANILLA BAVAROIS (Bavarois a la Vanille). Boil one pint of milk with half a split vanilla bean. Whip four egg-yolks well in a basin with six ounces of sugar, dilute them with the boiling milk, and pour the whole into a saucepan to stir over a moderate fire without letting it boil. Remove the cream from the fire as soon as it thickens, take out the vanilla, and add two gelatine leaves (one ounce) previously softened in cold water. 910 THE EPICUREAN. When this is melted pass the whole through a fine wire sieve into a tin basin and leave to cool on ice. As it begins to thicken mix in about three pints of cream, whipped and drained. Fill a jelly mold (Fig. 149) incrusted on ice with this, put on it a round of paper, and then let the bavarois harden for two hours. At the last moment dip the mold in hot water, and invert it on a cold dish. (3136). BAVAKOIS WITH CHESTNUTS (Bavarois aux Marrons). Suppress the shells from one pound of good, fresh chestnuts; put them with some water into a saucepan and let cook on a slow fire for two hours, being careful to replace the black liquid by clean boiling water. After the chestnuts are tender, drain, skin and pound them HI a mortar with half a pint of syrup at twenty-five degrees, to reduce them to a fine paste, and press this paste through a sieve into a tin basin. Put four egg-yolks into a bowl and beat them up with four ounces of sugar; dilute with a pint of boiling milk into which has been added half a vanilla bean; pour this into a saucepan and place it on the fire, beating it with a whip until it begins to thicken; then remove at once and add an ounce and a half of gelatine, softened in cold water; when this is dissolved, pass the preparation through a fine wire sieve and add it to the chestnuts in the basin, putting it on pounded ice and beating well till cold. As soon as it begins to thicken incorporate into it a quart and a half of firmly whipped and drained cream; then pour it into a channeled cylindrical mold (Fig. 148) incrusted in ice. Let it harden for an hour and a half. Just when serving dip the mold quickly into hot water and invert the cream on a cold dish, surrounding the base with fine glazed chestnuts. (3137). CREAM BISCUIT-SMALL (Petits Biscuits a la Oreme). Take some oval-shaped lady fingers and as many more shaped round like a bouchee; cover the edges with a thin layer of apricot marmalade (No. 3675); soak the oval ones lightly with maraschino and dress them in a circle on the outer edge of a deep dish; in the center of this place the round biscuits in intermingled layers after they have also been soaked in maraschino, and cover each one of these with a rather consistent English cream (No. 42) prepared with lemon peel and beaten for seven or eight minutes on ice, then mixed with a few spoonfuls of whipped cream. (3138). BLANC-MANGE A LA SMOLENSKA (Blanc-Manger a la Smolenska). Soften one ounce of gelatine in cold water and dissolve it in a gill of orange syrup; add to it a pint of filbert milk, made like almond milk (No. 4), substituting filberts for almonds, and strain into a tin basin. Let this preparation become cold on ice, and just as it begins to thicken incor- porate about three pints of well-whipped cream. Pour this into a dome-shaped mold, cover with a sheet of paper, close hermetically with a lid, and chill in lightly salted ice. One hour will suffice for this operation. Unmold on a cold dish and serve. (3139). STEAWBEKEY BLANC-MANGE (Blanc-Manger aux Praises), Pound half a pound of freshly peeled almonds, a few at a time; dilute with a quart of cold milk and press the whole slowly through a napkin held by two persons, so as to extract FIG. 588. all the liquid thoroughly; mix into this almond milk three-quarters of a pound of powdered sugar, some lemon peel or half a split vanilla bean, and a quarter of an hour later put into the liquid fifteen clarified gelatine leaves. Strain and try a little on ice to judge of its strength. Incrust a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150) on ice, coat it with clear jelly mixed with strawberry SWEET ENTREMETS. 911 Or orange juice and filtered through blotting paper. Stir on ice two-thirds of the blanc-mange to thicken it slightly, using a spoon, and as soon as perfect mix in a fine salpicon of candied pine- apple; pour this into the coated mold and leave it stand for one hour. Thicken the remainder of the preparation on ice, and with it fill five small timbale molds (No. 2, Fig. 137), also incrusted on a thick bed of ice spread over the bottom of a deep sautoir. Three-quarters of an hour later empty out the centers of the small molds with a tin tube dipped in hot water; to remove these pieces it is only necessary to heat the bottom of the molds slightly; replace them on ice and fill the center with some of the same preparation mingled with strawberry juice (No. 3673); let this get hard. Unmold the small timbales and cut each one across in three parts. Dip the large mold quickly into hot water; invert on a cold dish and surround the base with the rings, then fill up the hollow with Chantilly cream (No. 50), flavored with almonds, having it dome-shaped. Surround this dome with a few large strawberries, each one cut in two and dressed flat to resemble a rosette. Serve at the same time a bowlful of strawberry puree sweetened with syrup, having it very cold. (3140). CAROLINA BOEDER WITH CHAMPAGNE (Bordure Caroline au Champagne). Make an apricot " pain" preparation (No. 3194) a little thicker than usual, into which add the same quantity of rice cooked with cream and vanilla (No. 160), and a few spoonfuls of whipped cream (No. 50); pour it into a Savarin mold, incrusted in pounded ice. Beside this, prepare and mold a macedoine jelly with champagne the same as for No. 31 79, having it in a dome the same diame- ter at the bottom as the hollow in the Savarin mold; put this macedoine in the ice-box to stiffen. One moment before serving unmold the border on a cold dish and in the center place a pad of Gen- oese cake (No. 3239), reaching three-quarters to the top; into this unmold the champagne mace- doine and surround the base with a circle of croutons made of ribboned jelly (No. 3184). (3141). CHATEAU FRAMBOISE (Chateau Framboise). Fasten a round layer of office paste (No. 143) on a dish and on it place a charlotte mold half an inch narrower than the paste. Prepare a cream cake paste (No. 132) with five ounces of butter, three gills of water, seven ounces of flour, a spoonful of sugar, lemon peel, a grain of salt and five eggs. Put this paste into a socket pocket (Fig. 179), and put it on a baking sheet in the shape of thin even eclairs as long as the mold is high; then bake them in a slack oven until dry, then allow to cool. After the cakes are detached from the sheet, keep them warm for a few moments. When cold, open and fill them with raspberry jam (No. 3695) pushed through a cornet, and glaze over with sugar cooked to "crack" (No. 171). As this becomes cold dip one end and one side into the same _ sugar so as to enable them to stand upright on the layer of office paste around the mold. When the sugar is cold lift out the mold and fill the inside of the case with a raspberry bavarois prepara- tion, the same as for No. 3134, thickened on ice, and lastly having a salpicon of candied pineapple added to it. (3142). CHARLOTTE BENGALIAN (Charlotte Bengalienne). Cook a flat of Genoese paste (No. 3239), having it about three-eighths of an inch thick; invert it on a sheet of paper, pare off the upper crust and divide it into two bands, each to be two and three-quarters inches wide; cut one of these bands into short uprights slightly inclined toward the right, having them half an inch wide, and the other band the same width, only inclined toward the left. Put a round piece of paper in the bottom of a charlotte mold, against its sides range a row of these uprights, inclining them according to their cut and alternating those with crusts with those without them. On this first row range a second the same way, only inclining the uprights in the opposite direction. Fill the charlotte with a banana "pain" preparation (No. 3J95), and let harden in the ice-box for an hour and a half. Unmold the dessert on a dish, and just when ready to serve place a spun sugar ornament on top. (3143). CHARLOTTE OP CALVILLE APPLES (Charlotte de Pommes de Calville). Cut in four pieces eight or ten Calville apples; peel and cook them in a covered saucepan with a little water, very little sugar, a bit of lemon peel and half a vanilla bean. When done and all the moisture is evaporated, press them through a sieve. Cover the bottom of a charlotte mold with lady finger biscuits, or else butter biscuit for charlotte, cooked on a baking sheet covered with paper, three-eighths of an inch thick and cut up into long triangles, and form them into a rosette without any open space whatever between the pieces. From the same biscuits cut some even upright pieces three inches wide and the same height as the mold, which should be kept on ice. Pour the apple pulp into a round-bottomed pan and dilute .with a gill of syrup mingled with a sheet 912 THE EPICUREAN. and a half of gelatine that has been softened and dissolved. Stir the preparation on ice to thicken, and as soon as it begins to set pour in quickly two or three spoonfuls of good rum and then a quart of whipped cream. Two minutes after turn this into the charlotte mold and sur- round it with chopped ice, leaving it thus for one hour, and when needed unmold the charlotte on a folded napkin. (3144). CHAKLOTTE A LA METTEENIOH (Charlotte a la Metternicli) Prepare a paste made by beating three whole eggs in a basin, and when creamy add halt a pound of sugar, as much sifted flour, a pinch of fecula and some orange sugar (No. 3165). The paste should be quite firm. Then force it through a pocket on a buttered and floured baking sheet, having the pieces resemble lady fingers all of the same size, and bake in a moderate oven. Detach them from the sheet and cut one end off of about forty and leave till cold leaning against a support, so as to have them slightly bent on the uncut ends. Dip the cut end of each biscuit into sugar cooked to " small crack" (No. 171), drain it off and fasten the cakes upright against the thickness of a round flat of office paste; fasten each piece with cooked sugar, overlapping them slightly so that they form a pretty basket spread out open on the top. When the sugar is quite cold dress the basket on a dish and fill it with chestnut puree sweetened with vanilla sugar (No. 3165) and then mingled with whipped cream. Surround the base with candied chestnuts dipped in sugar cooked to " small crack." (3145). OHAELOTTE BUSSE (Charlotte Busse). Lay a round sheet of white paper at the bottom of a charlotte mold and line it all around with well-pared lady fingers (No. 3377). Boil a pint of milk with half a split vanilla bean; beat up in a vessel six egg-yolks with six ounces of sugar and dilute the preparation with the boiling milk; pour it at once into the saucepan and thicken over a moderate fire without letting it come to a boil. Then take out the vanilla and add two leaves of gelatine softened in cold water then melted in a gill of boiling water. Run the whole through a fine Chinese strainer into a vessel and leave to cool until it begins to thicken slightly. Then mix with it the volume of three pints of whipped cream and pouring it at once into the charlotte mold cover with another round of paper and place the mold on ice for an hour and a half. When ready to use invert the charlotte on a cold dish covered with a napkin, remove the upper paper and place on top a cover, made with the same paste as the lady fingers, cut the same dimension as the charlotte, icing it with a white vanilla icing (No. 102) and decorate with a handsome design of preserved fruits or with royal icing. (3146). OHABLOTTE WITH STEAWBEBBIES OB BASPBEBBIES (Charlotte aux Praises ou aux" Framboises). Cut a few large lady fingers or charlotte biscuits (No. 3377) into long triangles so as to be able to place them in the shape of a rosette in the bottom of a charlotte mold, pressing them down on their glazed side; cut out the center with a pastry cutter one and a quarter inches in diameter; replace this cut-out piece with a round of biscuit cut with the same cutter; then cut off the ends and sides of a few of the same biscuits so as to stand them upright against the sides of the mold, pressing them close to each other. Incrust the mold in ice. Strain first through a sieve and then through a tammy about two pounds of strawberries or raspberries; sweeten this pulp with some thick syrup flavored with orange peel and mixed with about two gelatine leaves or clear melted calf's foot jelly (No. 104); stir the preparation on ice and as soon as it thickens incorporate into it slowly the volume of a pint and a half of very firm, well-drained and slightly sweetened whipped cream. Fill up the mold with this and let harden for one hour on ice. At the last moment dip the mold into tepid water and invert the charlotte on a napkin. (3147). CHESTNUTS WITH OBEAM (Marrons a la Oreme). Shell a few dozen sound chestnuts; scald them in order to remove the inner skin, then cook them very slowly in milk containing a piece of vanilla bean. When done all the liquid ought to be evaporated. Rub them through a sieve to make a pure"e. Put this pure"e into a saucepan with half its weight of sugar; work the paste on a slow fire until it becomes consistent and detaches from the saucepan; leave it till partly cold, then run a little of it at a time through a coarse sieve, pressing it down with a large spoon so that it falls like vermicelli; lift it up with a palette, dress it in a circle on the bottom of a dish and in the center build a pyramid of whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla. SWEET ENTREMETS. 913 (3148). CORNETS OP ORANGE CREAM (Cornets, Oublies, Plaisirs de Creme a 1'Orange), Pound eight ounces of shelled and peeled almonds with eight ounces of sugar and four egg- whites to obtain a line paste; add to it two ounces of vanilla sugar (No. 3165), two ounces of flour and eight lightly beaten egg-whites. Dress this paste on a waxed baking sheet, laying it with a table- spoonful into thin round wafers four inches in diameter, and bake them in a hot oven When of a fine golden color remove them from the oven and roll them around some tin cornet forms and leave till cold. Dress in a pyramid on a dish covered with a napkin and fill each one with whipped cream flavored with orange. (3149). CREAM BAIN-MARIE-MOLDED (Oreme au Bain-Marie Put into a bright copper pan two spoonfuls of powdered sugar, stir it on a slow fire until it becomes a fine yellow color, then pour it into the bottom of a low charlotte mold and let get cold. Break seven or eight eggs in a bowl with five or six yolks; beat them up for two minutes, then dilute with a quart of milk, adding ten ounces of powdered sugar and a little lemon peel. Ten minutes later strain it twice through a sieve. Butter the sides of the mold, pour the prepara- tion in, place it in a saucepan on a small trivet and pour hot water around to reach up to half the height of the mold, then bring to a boil; remove the saucepan to a slower fire, and cover it over; place some hot cinders on the saucepan lid and let poach for one hour at least without allow- ing the water to boil. Remove the saucepan and let the cream get partly cold before taking it from the water, then unmold on a dish. (3150). MALAKOFF CREAM (Oreme Malakoff). Have eighteen to twenty ounces of Genoese cake (No. 3239) or biscuit (No. 3231) cut into not too thick slices. Cut up some candied fruits, such as apricots, greengages and pineapple, in small dice, adding whole candied cherries. With seven or eight egg-yolks, a pint of milk and ten ounces of sugar prepare an English cream (No. 42) ; when thick and nearly cold mix with it four spoonfuls of dissolved gelatine, strain and stir on ice to reduce it to the correct consistency (it must be very light); then mix with it five or six spoonfuls of whipped cream. Incrust a souffle" pan (Fig. 182) on ice. Soak the sliced biscuit half with rum and the other half with kirsch or Curacoa; spread them in layers in the pan and pour the cream over; bestrew with the candied fruits, and repeat until the pan is entirely full and forms a dome on top; keep it on ice for half an hour. Cover the dome with a thin coat of apricot marmalade (No. 3675), then cover with sweetened and flavored whipped cream; decorate with the same cream, and place the pan on a napkin to serve at once. (3151). CREAM OF RICE WITH ANGELICA (Crime de Riz a rAngelique), Pick and wash four ounces of good rice and cook it till tender (keeping the grains whole) with a pint and a half of milk into which has been added half a split vanilla bean; pour it at once into a basin. Put into another vessel six egg-yolks, stir in six ounces of powdered sugar, and dilute with half a pint of boiling milk; pour this into a saucepan to thicken over the fire, and then add two ounces of gelatine softened in cold water, and as soon as the gelatine is dissolved strain the whole over the rice and mix well without stirring the rice more than necessary. At the same time incorporate four ounces of angelica previously washed in hot water, cut in small three-sixteenths of an inch dice, and steeped in maraschino. Set the preparation on ice to get thoroughly cold, and as soon as it begins to thicken stir in as much whipped cream; pour the whole into a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 150), and keep it on ice for two hours. Unmold on a cold dish, and garnish around with lady bouch FlG - cut should be laid on a small board so as to facilitate cutting and removing them, and to keep them in good shape. (3555), JARDINIERE OUTLETS (Ootelettes Jardiniere). Blanch half a pound of rice, refresh and return it to the saucepan with a pint and a half of boiling cream, half a pound of sugar and the peel of half a lemon. Boil up once, push it into the oven for an hour, then remove and whip it well, adding a quart of cream; freeze and as the prepa- ration takes body mix into it as much sweetened whipped cream as there is ice. Mold in cutlet- FIG. 687. shaped molds and when thoroughly frozen turn them out and dip each one in macaroon dust sifted through a fine sieve. Dress on a salpicon of fruit macerated in maraschino and thickened with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) prepared with maraschino; trim the handles with frills (No. 10) and serve at once. (3556). LA GRANDINA (La Grandma), Coat some oval-shaped plaited paper cases with a part of the following ice: Whip together one pint of raspberries, the peel of one orange and the juice of three, also the juice of six lemons; tint this a beautiful pale red and boil, adding enough sugar to make a twenty-two degree syrup; strain through a fine sieve and freeze. When consistent and smooth add to it half as much whipped cream and two ounces of finely cut-up citron peel; partly fill the inside of the cases with iced chocolate biscuit preparation flavored with vanilla, into which mix pounded macaroons and a few roasted and pulverized hazel-nuts; freeze for one hour, putting the cases in a freezing box and finish filling with the raspberry ice, having it slightly bomb-shaped on top; decorate with whole cherries placed directly in the center; dredge the top with finely shredded pistachios; return to the freezing box and freeze for one hour. FIG. 688. (3557), LEMONS IS SURPRISE (Citrons en Surprise). Pour a quart of fresh cream into a vessel, pound two ounces of sweet almonds and a few bitter almonds with twelve ounces of sugar; sift through a sieve and put it with the cream, adding two gills of maraschino and four ounces of candied fruits cut in quarter-inch squares; tint it to a soft pink, then freeze. With this cream fill some large lemons that have been emptied. Tie around with ribbons the same as shown in Fig. 689. FIG. 689. 1012 THE EPICUREAN (3558). LEONA IOE OKEAM (Glace L6ona). First prepare some natural ice glasses the shape of Fig. 690. (For preparing these glasses see No. 3434.) When they are all ready put them into a freezing box until serving time. Prepare some whipped cream (No. 50) flavored with maraschino and drain it on a sieve. Make an ice with half a pound of almonds, ground a few at a time, with half a pound of sugar and a pint of water, adding two gelatine leaves dissolved in two gills of water, and a gill of vanilla syrup; strain this through a fine tammy and freeze in slightly salted ice; work well with the spatula, incorporating as much whipped cream and a salpicon of assorted fruits cut in quarter-inch squares, macerated in kirsch and drained. "With this ice fill some spiral-shaped molds and pack in ice. Half an hour later, just when prepared to serve, fill the glasses with the whipped cream. Unmold the ices, lay them over the cream and on top of each place a brandied cherry or one made of almond paste (No. 125); serve at once. (3559). MACEDOINE OKOQUETTES (Croquettes Mace"doine) Mold in tins the size and shape of a medium croquette some burnt almond cream (No. 3455), ranging exactly in the center some biscuits soaked in maraschino; FIG. 690. freeze for half an hour, then unmold and roll in pulverized macaroons sifted through a sieve. Have in an ice cream freezer all sorts of fresh or preserved fruits cut in quarter-inch squares; to them add lemon juice, maraschino and champagne; freeze with very little ice and when extremely cold drain properly and mix in whipped cream (No. 50); dress on saucers, laying the croquettes over, one or two on each saucer. (3560). MAOEDOINE OF FBTJITS AND ST. JACQUES CUPS (MacMoine de Fruits et Coupes St. Jacques). Macedoine. Lay in a vessel one peeled banana cut in half-inch squares, one well-peeled orange having the meats lyiiig between the intersections re- moved with a knife and all the seeds suppressed, a slice of pineapple half an inch thick cut in dice, four ounces of grapes, two ounces of strawberries or raspberries, four ounces of cherries, pears or peaches, half a gill of kirsch or maraschino and a little powdered sugar; mingle all together and keep it cold in a freezer with ice packed around; serve in a compote dish. St. Jacques Cup. With this macedoine fill some wide champagne cups; cover the macedoine with kirsch or maraschino sherbert and serve (see Fig. 691). FIG. 691. (3561). MADELEINE ICE CREAM (Glace Madeleine). Decorate a Madeleine mold (Fig. 692) with candied fruits; coat the inside with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) and fill with hazel-nut ice cream (No. 3464) into which haA r e mingled a salpicon of fruits and whipped cream. In the very center lay a little apricot marmalade (No. 3675); pack this mold in ice and freeze for two hours; unmold on a napkin and surround with fancy cakes; serve at the same time a sauce made of whipped cream, vanilla ice cream and Curaoa. (3562). MADKILIAN (Madrilene). Place in a vessel twelve raw egg-yolks and half a pound of sugar, diluting slowly with a pint of boiling milk that has just had a quarter Fio. 693. of a vanilla stick infused therein for fifteen minutes; strain through a fine sieve. Butter some timbale molds (No. 3, Fig. 137) and fill them with the preparation ; stand them in a sautoir with boiling water to reach to half their height and poach; when they are firm to the touch leave stand till ^old, then unmold. Pound a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds and a few bitter ones, all freshly peeled ; moisten slowly with a quart of milk and strain forcibly through a napkin; add ten ounces of sugar and a gill of kirsch, also a little vanilla syrup (No. 3165); strain, freeze, and when the ice has congealed mix in one Italian meringue ogg-white (No. 140). Mold in cylindrical molds two and a half inches in diameter by two inches ICES. 1013 in height, placing the small timbale directly in the center; freeze for half an hour, then unmold and lay on lace paper; on top have a handsome brandied plum, and around this and the base set an even row of cherries cut in two. (3563). MAEVELOUS (Merveilleuse). Break six egg-yolks in a tinned basin with twelve ounces of sugar, a quart of boiling milk, and half a pound of freshly roasted, coarsely ground coffee; set the basin on a moderate fire and stir continuously, without permitting it to boil, until the preparation will cover the spatula; strain through a fine sieve, leave till cold and freeze, adding the same quantity of sweet- ened whipped cream, half a pound of chopped burnt almonds, and as much candied chestnuts broken in small pieces. Put one pint of orange water ice (No. 3605) in a freezer with the same amount of burnt hazel-nut ice cream (No. 3464) and as much whipped cream. With this preparation coat some small paper cases, fill the inside with the first preparation and surround with orange flowers. Fio. 693. (3564). MIGNON ICE CREAM (Glace a la Mignonne). Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in water with the juice of a lemon; put it into a vessel and pour over some vanilla syrup (No. 3165) at thirty-two degrees. Place in a freezer one pint of No. 1 vanilla ice cream (No. 3458), and the well-drained rice. With this cream fill some shell-shaped tin molds; freeze and unmold after one hour, lay in the center some fresh fruits and soaked macaroons, and FIG. 694. cover the whole with a layer of very smooth whipped cream; decorate the top with whipped cream pushed through a cornet; freeze and serve with a sauce made of apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and kirsch. (3565). MOKABELLE (Mokabelle). Put into a coffee filter a quarter of a pound of ground coffee and half a vanilla stick; moisten with a pint of water to obtain a very highly concentrated extract of coffee, then add to it sufficient syrup to bring the composition to twenty-two degrees, strain through a tammy, freeze and when well congealed pour in as much whipped cream (No. 50). With this ice fill some cups, either of sugar, china or fancy pasteboard ones; return to the freezing box and freeze once more. If desired the tops can be covered with whipped cream flavored with extract of coffee and kirsch mixed together. (3566). MONTELIMAR WITH HAZEL-NUT CREAM (Montelimar a la Oreme aux Noisettes). Hazel-nut Cream. Koast a quarter of a pound of hazel-nuts; carefully remove their outer skins and pound with two gills of cream. Put in a tinned basin twelve egg-whites and ten ounces of sugar; stir to mix thoroughly, then moisten with a pint of boiling milk; set the basin on a slow fire, stir continuously, then remove from the fire when the prep- aration covers the spatula, add the nuts and leave stand till cool. Pour in a pint of rich sweet cream; strain through a sieve and freeze. Montelimar. Pound in a mortar three ounces of peeled sweet almonds with a gill of kirsch; cook ten ounces of sugar to three hundred and two degrees Fahr- enheit or "small crack;'' mix it slowly in a mortar with the almonds, leave till cold, then divide it into three parts; one of these color red with vegetal carmine flavored with Curaoa, the other color green with spinach green or vegetal green flavored with orange flower water, and keep the third part white; roll them each into three-eighths of an inch thick strings. Cut some lady fingers (No. 3377) to the same size, and baste over with maraschino; pack a Montelimar mold (Fig. 695) in ice; coat it with a thin layer of the nut ice cream (No. 3461), fill it perfectly full, intermingling the various colors of almond paste and the biscuits, and close it forcibly. Two hours after unmold and cut in slices to serve. FIG. 695. THE EPICUREAN. (3567). MUfTS A LA DEJAZET, VENUS OEEAM (Manchons a la Dejazet, Creme Venus). Prepare the muffs according to the following description: Sift through a sieve one-quarter of a pound of sugar, place it in a vessel with four whole eggs, a quarter of a pound of flour and a little powdered vanilla; spread this on a buttered and floured baking sheet to the thickness of about one- sixteenth of an inch, and bake in a brisk oven; divide this cake into bands each six and a quarter inches long by two and a half wide, roll them on a piece of rounded wood two inches in diameter, cover them with a light layer of meringue (No. 140), and over this scatter in profusion some pistachios and almonds, chopped in eighth of an inch FIG. 690. pieces, mixing them with dried currants. Venus Cream. Put into a vessel one vanilla bean, as much Ceylon cinnamon broken small, a little mace and the peel of an orange; boil a quart of very fresh cream, pour it over the spices, cover and leave infuse for three hours. Break ten egg-yolks in a basin, work well with half a pound of sugar and the boiled cream, coloring it to a soft pink. Cook this preparation, let stand till cold, then strain through a fine sieve; freeze and add to this ice one quart of whipped cream. Dress each muff on a separate sheet of paper; fill the bottom with a quarter of an inch thick layer of pistachio cream (No. 3454), over this the Venus cream, and on top another one of pistachio to close the orifice. Keep in the freezing box for half an hour. When serving fasten in the center of both ends a stick of angelica. (3568). MUSHROOMS (Champignons). FIG. 697. For these have some molds representing mushrooms of various sizes; fill them with maraschino ice cream (No. 3462), freeze, unmold and dip the ends or stalks in grated chocolate to imitate the roots. Dress piled high on a folded napkin. (3569). NEAPOLITAN IOE OEEAM (Glace Napolitaine). Pack in a freezer a Neapolitan mold as represented in Fig. 698; it must be made in three divisions; fill one of the round parts with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458), the other with pistachio ice cream (No. 3454), and the flat or center part with strawberry water ice (No. 3607), having the mold FIG FIG. 700. FIG. 698. quite full so that when forcibly closed the surplus cream runs out all around, thus preventing the ice from becoming salty; pack it well in ice and let freeze for one hour; unmold on a small board and cut it into five-eighths of an inch slices with a special tinned copper or silver-plated knife so as not to blacken the ice (Fig. 700); this knife should be dipped into warm water every time a slice is cut. Dress these slices on small lace papers. ICES. 1015 (3570). BASKET FILLED WITH ORANGES (Panier Garni d'Oranges). The basket is of wicker furnished with an inside case; one of the handles must be trimmed with a ribbon. Fill the inside case with Andalusian ice cream (No. 3446) into which incorporate as much whipped cream (No. 50). Pare some oranges to the pulp, remove the white skin adhering to each section and marinate them in a little maraschino, sugar and kirsch; with these pieces of orange decorate the top of the cream and serve. (3571). POSILIPO ORANGES (Oranges Posilipo). FIG Cut some three-inch in diameter oranges straight through the center; empty the insides entirely, scallop the edge of the peel with a machine (Fig. 654) and cut some uniform slits half an inch below this edge; run a ribbon through, tying it in a bow on one side. Have a spherical mold two and three-quarters inches in diameter and divided in three even hinged parts; fill one of these parts with strawberry ice cream (No. 3451), the other with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) and the third with pistachio ice cream (No. 3454); equalize all these parts so that when the mold is closed there will be no more than just sufficient to fill them. Pack in ice and freeze for one hour; unmold and lay the pistachio side in the half orange; stick a piece of angelica in the top, it being run through a preserved cherry. FIG. 70S. (3572). SEVILLE ORANGES, AND ORANGE MAOEDOINE BASKETS (Oranges a la Seville et Paniers d'Oranges Mac6doine). Prepare some Seville oranges or mandarins the same as for orange Kussian punch (No. 3613); after they have been emptied and are well wiped inwardly, freeze, then fill with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) into which has been added some candied orange and citron peel cut in very thin shreds and macerated in a little maraschino, Curagoa and kirsch. Serve, surrounding each one with green smilax. The baskets are prepared the same as the Andalusian (No. 3522), filling them with a cooked almond or hazel-nut cream (No. 3464), into which mix a macedoine of fruits; here and there on top scatter some halved pistachios and cherries. (3573). PARISIAN ICE CREAM (Glace a la Parisienne). Have some conical molds rounded on one end and pointed on the other (Fig. 703); fill them half with strawberry ice cream (No. 3451) and half with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458). The idea of using these molds is to avoid the necessity of using a spoon to mold the ice. On the round end lay a small macaroon soaked in maraschino; close the mold and remove any surplus ice issuing from the joints; pack in ice and freeze for an hour. On removing dress them in specially made glasses as shown in Fig. 703, and serve. (3574). PEARS OR APPLES IN SURPRISE (Poires ou Pommes en Surprise), Empty out the insides of the fruit, either apples, pears, oranges or others, lay them in a FIG. FIG. 704. FIG. 705. freezer imbedded in ice for one hour and fill with various ices, either of cream or water, salted ice to freeze for two hours, then dress on a socle or dish with smilax. Pack in 1016 THE EPICUREAN, (3575). POTATOES (Pommes de Terre), Procure lead molds resembling medium-sized potatoes; nil them with chestnut ice cream (No. 3465) and stuff the centers with biscuits soaked in maraschino, also a salpicon of fruits. Freeze for half an hour, then unmold. Koll them in grated sweet chocolate and imitate the eyes by sticking in sticks of almonds; dress on a napkin and serve separately a sauce made of whipped cream and a little maraschino. FlG - 706 - (3576). EIBAMBELLE (Kibambelle). Boxes imitating the fancy boxes of the itinerant dealers of Paris. Coat the bottom and sides with nougat cream (No. 3452); fill the center with uncooked maraschino cream (No. 3462) into which incorporate half as much whipped cream (No. 50) and one ounce of small vanilla chocolate pastilles for each quart of preparation. Pack these boxes in a freezing box or cave and serve accompanied by small wafer cakes or very thin waffle cornets. (3577). KIOE A LA EISTOEI (ffia & la Eistori), Coat a dome-shaped mold with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458), range on the bottom a layer of crushed candied chestnuts, over these a bed of chocolate mousse (No. 3473), then another layer of chestnuts and apricot marmalade (No. 3675); finish filling with a light burnt almond cream (No. 3455). Have the mold quite full, forcing the cover on tightly, pack in salted ice and freeze for three-quarters of an hour. Unmold on a garnishing of thoroughly boiled rice macerated in an eighteen-degree vanilla syrup; serve a sauce-boatful of apricot maraschino sauce at the same time. (3578). EIOE WITH MAEASOHINO (Eiz au Marasquin). Boil half a pound of rice in milk; when dry and soft sweeten it and two minutes after remove and put away to cool. Dilute it with a few spoonfuls of vanilla syrup (No. 3165) and three tablespoonf uls of maraschino and keep it on one side. Freeze a dome mold in pounded ice and salt for a quarter of an hour before opening it; when cold range the ice inside of it in layers, bestrewing each one with candied fruits cut in large dice. After the mold is full first close the opening with a round piece of paper larger than itself, then with its own cover, closing the joints with butter so that the salted water cannot penetrate inside; cover also with salted ice and one hour later wash the mold quickly in warm water, dry and invert the rice on a cold dish. (3579). SICILIAN (Sicilienne). Whip twelve raw egg-yolks in a tinned copper basin with twelve ounces of sugar and a quart of boiling milk; add three ounces of roasted coriander seeds, a piece of cinnamon and half a pound of chocolate; cook on a slow fire, allow to cool, then add a pint of cream; pass this through a sieve; freeze, and add six ounces of almonds, each one to be cut lengthwise in four, and three ounces of candied orange or lemon peel cut up very finely. Have one quart of chocolate ice cream (No. 3449) into which mix half as much whipped cream (No. 50). Line a square one-quart mold with bands of biscuit a quarter of an inch thick. At the bottom place a layer of the chocolate ice cream, over this slices of guava jelly and citron marmalade and the chocolate cream, repeating the operation until the mold is completely full. Pack in salted ice, freeze for one hour, unmold and dress. (3580). ALGEEIAN TIMBALES (Timbales a 1'Algenenne), Lay in a vessel twelve ounces of sugar, six ounces of sifted flour and six ounces of finely ground almonds and two egg-whites; mix thoroughly, then incorporate ten partly beaten egg-whites; this paste should be flowing and smooth; add four tablespoonf uls of whipped cream (No. 50). Spread this paste on a waxed baking sheet in a band nineteen inches in length by six and a half inches in width; push it into a moderate oven and when partly baked pare the edges off with a knife and finish baking; when of a fine golden color remove from the oven and range it against the interior sides of a ring six inches in diameter by six inches in height. From the same paste cut out three rounds, one eight inches in diameter and two of six and a half inches; of one of these two rounds cut out the center so as to form a ring which will serve as a cover for the timbale, the other for the bottom, and the seven-inch one is to be cut into six parts; these are intended for lining the dome- shaped mold; clip off the surplus wafer and fasten the pieces to the inside with sugar cooked to ICES. 101? "crack" (No. 171); cover over with well-reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and decorate with a green lime (chinois) on the center; around fasten on some halved cherries, dredge the whole with shredded or chopped pistachios and surround the base of the timbale with a row of nice red candled cherries. Salpicon. Prepare a salpicon of pineapple, cherries and almonds; macerate in a little kirsch and maraschino for one hour. Racahout Cream. Put six egg-yolks into a basin with two heaping tablespoonfuls of racahout and ten ounces of sugar; beat well with a whip, adding one quart of boiling milk; cook this cream until it almost boils, without allowing it to do so, then strain, cool and freeze, mixing in half as much whipped cream (No. 50). Pack two molds in ice, having covers to fasten on the outside; one cylindrical, five and a half inches in diameter and six inches high, and the other dome-shaped, four and a half inches in diameter at its base. Pour some maraschino over macaroons; place them in layers in the cylindrical mold, then racahout cream to cover, on this the fruits and more of the cream and then macaroons (No. 3379), continuing until the mold is entirely full, finishing with the cream; fit on the cover, freeze for one hour, then unmold it into the above wafer timbale; lay this timbale on a folded napkin, put on to it first the wafer ring and then the dome cover and serve. (3581). CHATEAUBKIAKD TIMBALE (Timbale Chateaubriand), Pound finely half a pound of almonds and mix in four ounces of butter, the chopped peel of a lemon, six ounces of sifted flour, salt and three eggs; make a firm, but not too hard paste and leave it set for one hour; roll it out to three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, and from this flat cut six pieces each six inches long by three and a half wide; lay them very straight on a baking sheet. Cut also two pieces a quarter of an inch thick, one having a diameter of seven and a quarter inches and the other nine inches; cook all these in a moderate oven and cool under weights. When very cold pare them on all sides to obtain panels six inches long and three and a quarter wide; bevel the edges on the inner long sides; cover them lightly with apricot marmalade (No. 3675) and glaze with royal icing (No. 102), white, red and chocolate. Decorate with royal icing, then fasten the panels together without attaching them to the baking sheet; deco- rate the joints of each panel with a small royal ice beading. Prepare the bottom piece six cornered, eight inches from end to end, and the top seven and a half inches; ice the bottom, one in white and the top one pale green; on this one stand a dome made of meringue or royal icing, and on this dome a lyre, either of royal icing or gum paste (No. 3624); decorate around the bottom with a border of pink gum paste. Chateaubriand Cream. Pound four ounces of almonds with half an ounce of bitter ones and two gills of cream. Put ten egg-yolks in a basin with twelve ounces of sugar, half a vanilla bean, a pint of milk and the pounded almonds; cook the preparation on a slow fire without boiling till it covers the spatula, then allow to cool; pour in a pint of fresh cream. Strain this composition through a sieve, freeze and add half as much whipped cream and four ounces of shredded pista- chios as well as a salpicon of candied fruits, seedless Malaga and Smyrna raisins, having all of these macerated for one hour in kirsch. Fill a six-sided mold of the same form and size as the Chateaubriand, only half an inch smaller in diameter; pack well in ice and freeze for two hours. Unmold the ice on the largest round, place on a dish with the timbale over, then set the small round on top; decorate with the cupola or lyre; serve. (3582). STUFFED TOMATOES (Tomates Farcies). Mask the sides of a mold imitating a tomato with strawberry water ice (No. 3607) and in the center burnt almond ice cream (No. 3455) and a salpicon of fruits and macaroons soaked in maraschino; finish filling, close forcibly, imbed in ice and freeze for half an hour; unmold, dress in a pyramid on a napkin and serve with a bowlful of sauce made of vanilla ice cream (No. 3458), whipped cream (No. 50) and prunelle, well mixed together. Fia. 707. FIG. 708. 1018 THE EPICUREAN. Fm. 709. (3583). TOKONCHINO PKOOOPE (Toronchino Procope). Put ten raw egg-yolks into a tin basin containing three-quarters of a pound of sugar, and half a pound of burnt almonds crushed with about a gill of cream. Set on a slow fire, stir steadily until the preparation covers the spatula, then take from the fire and let stand till cold. Now add a pint of cream and a little orange flower water, strain the whole through a sieve, freeze and use the cream to fill some plaited paper cases, scattering shredded pistachios over the tops. (3584). TOETONI CUPS (Coupes Tortoni). This ice requires the use of lead molds representing plain, shallow, round baskets; line them with rather thin strawberry ice cream (No. 3451) arid freeze for one hour; unmold and lay over sheets of paper placed on a tin; fill quite full and rounded on top with iced biscuit prepara- tion (No. 3435) and put them into the freezing box. When the iced biscuit is sufficiently congealed decorate each ice cream with roses of medium size molded in raspberry, orange, lemon and pineapple water ices, one quart being sufficient for twelve flowers; fill some of the rose molds with lemon and orange, others with raspberry and pineapple. Pack in ice, freeze and unmold; lay each one on the above biscuit preparation, it being sufficiently hard to have the rose set firmly on top of the roundest part; put them in a freezing box (Fig. 622) for half an hour and serve. (3585). TUTTI-PKUTTI BISCUITS (Biscuits Tutti-Frutti). Prepare a lady finger paste (No. 3377). adding a little butter; spread it in thin eighth of an inch layers on sheets of paper and bake in a brisk oven; after it has been removed punch out round pieces with a pastry cutter two and a quarter inches in diameter, also some bands seven and a half inches long by one and a half wide. Place one of the rounds at the bottom of a tin ring measuring two and three-quarters inches in diameter by an inch and a half in height; on top of this round range the band in a circle. Fill the center with two kinds of ice, one lemon water ice (No. 3604) and the other nut cream (No. 3461), both having a salpicon of fruits macerated in kirsch added to them, and freeze for one hour; unmold and range each tutti-frutti biscuit on a lace paper of the same size. Cover entirely with a smooth coating of whipped cream and decorate with lozenges of angelica and halved cherries, placing a whole one in the center; freeze once more for half an hour and serve. (3586). TUTTI-FRUTTI (Tutti-Frutti). Have some very cold tutti-frutti molds (Fig. 711). Incorporate a salpicon of candied fruits, cut in three-sixteenths inch squares and marinated in kirsch, in vanilla ice cream (No. 3458). Fill the molds half full with this and the other half with orange water ice (No. 3605). Close forcibly, remove the surplus ice and freeze for half an hour. Unmold and dress on lace paper, the same diameter as the tutti-frutti, and serve. (3587). VALENCE CUP WITH PEACHES (Coupe de Valence aux Peches). Prepare some Andalusian ice cream (No. 3446); mold it in a cup mold that has been imbedded in ice; freeze in ice and salt for one hour; unmold and decorate with peeled peaches cut in four, soaked in champagne, sugar and maraschino, adding to them well-pared oranges cut in sections, having withdrawn the seeds. (3588). VERMEIL GLOBULES A LA DAMSEAUX (Globules Vermeilles a la Damseaux). To dress these imitated strawberries made of ice cream, it requires shells (Fig. 714), made of either nougat (No. 3621), pulled sugar (No. 3618) or clear sugar. The ends of the shells must be decorated with small flowers made of cooked sugar or gum paste. Mold half FlG - 713 - FlG - r14 - of these ices in strawberry ice cream (No. 3451) and the other half in strawberry water ice (No. 3607); after all are molded pack FIG. 710. FIG. ICES. 1019 in ice and freeze for half an hour, then unmold them; fasten an artificial stalk, surmounted with small leaves, into each one. Place them in the shells and serve at once. (3589), WATERMELON (Pasteque), Take a pound of the red pulp of a watermelon, the juice of four oranges and of three lemons, an orange and a lemon peel, also some syrup at twenty degrees. Bring the composition to eight- een-degree heat, strain through a sieve and freeze, adding half a gill of brandy and one quart of whipped cream (No. 50). Coat a watermelon-shaped mold with pistachio cream (No. 3454); on this place the above preparation, with strawberry water ice (No. 3607) laid in the center; pack and freeze for two hours; unmold and cut it up in four or else in two; on the red part insert imitation watermelon seeds made of chocolate. These halves or quarters can be cut in slices. LAEQE PIECES, (3590). BACCHUS (Bacchus). Bacchus represents wine and is the companion piece to the well, representing water. Molds can be purchased already made for these ices. Bacchus' barrel is of chocolate ice cream (No. 3449) and Bacchus is of virgin orange cream (No. 3459) ; the foot on which the barrel rests is of FIG. 715. pistachio ice cream (No. 3454). Mold quite full, close forcibly, having it completely filled, and freeze for an hour and a half; unmold on a water socle as represented in Fig. 715, being careful to have this piece to correspond with the other as regards its proportions. (3591). CANTALOUP IN SURPRISE AND CANTALOUP MOLDED (Cantaloup en Surprise et Cantaloup Moule"X In Surprise. Take a handsome, fresh and very ripe cantaloup melon, make an opening on the top two and a half inches below the stalk, and on the bias, directing the tip of the knife toward the center; suppress all the ripe pulp from the inside, put back the cover and imbed this rind in salted ice. With the removed pulp make a melon water ice (No. 3603), color with a little red and yellow carmine to imitate the orange color of a cantaloup melon; with this fill the rind to represent the original melon, return it to the ice and freeze for two hours. When well congealed it can be cut in slices; make the seeds of almond paste (No. 3623). A macedoine of fresh fruits with cham- pagne and lemon water ice can also be substituted for the melon ice. 1020 THE EPICUREAN. Molded. Melons may be molded in lead molds, having the shape of a melon, making the rind either of vanilla (No. 3458) or pistachio (No. 3454) and the center of orange water ice (No. 3605) FIG. or pineapple water ice (No. 3606); pack in ice and freeze for two hours. Unmold and dress either on a water socle or folded napkin and on top of the melon range an artificial stalk and leaves. (3592), DELICIOUS WITH HAZEL-NUTS (Delicieux aux Noisettes), Lay half a pound of hazel-nuts taken from their shells on a baking sheet, roast i i the oven, peel to suppress the red skins, then pound with two gills of cream; set this in a basin with twelve raw egg-yolks and twelve ounces of sugar; whip all together and dilute with a pint of miik which has had a quarter of a vanilla stick infused in it. Cook the preparation without boiling till it covers FIG. the spatula well, leave stand until cold, then add a pint of fresh cream; freeze. When the cream has a proper consistency mix in two quarts of well-drained whipped cream (No. 50). Pack a two-quart mold on ice, fill it with the composition and freeze for two hours; unmold on a folded napkin, on top set a spun sugar ornament and surround with scooped-out oranges refilled with two differently tinted jellies, white and red, laid in streaks, cooled and then cut in six or eight separate parts; surround the base with small strawberries having fresh leaves attached. (3593). PEUIT BASKET WITH DOVES (Oorbeille Jardiniere aux Colombes). Make the stand representing a basket in two parts of colored water, with a hole in the center of each; when this stand has been frozen place it on the middle of an oval board thirteen inches long by nine and a half inches wide, having a half-inch diameter hole bored through the center; keep the whole firmly together and very straight with a nut-screw five to six inches long, screwing TOES. 1021 it in very tight. Have two cylindrical molds with bottoms, fill them with water and freeze; unmold and place them on the center line at one-third of the length of the stand; on each of these columns set a dove, imitating the eyes with a dry currant, and fasten a cherry-colored ribbon around his FIG. 718. neck; decorate all around with fruits molded in various ices and dipped in hot water to unmold; put them in the freezing box or cave and freeze; afterward color them lightly and stick into them stalks with their respective leaves. All these ice cream pieces should be dressed at the last moment and then served at a dinner table or sideboard supper. (3594). HEN WITH OHIOKS; NEST WITH EGGS (Poule Avec Poussins; Nid Garni d'ffiufs). Prepare a sponge cake stand (No. 3260) or one of wood or office paste (No. 143), eleven and a quarter inches long by eight and a quarter inches wide; cover it with coffee or chocolate icing. FIG. 719. Make a nest of spun sugar, on which place here and there small bits of angelica; in the center set the stand. Mold the hen in burnt almond ice cream (No. 3455), spotted over with coffee, choc- FIG. 720. olate, vanilla, etc., to imitate the different shadings of the bird. Pack it in ice and freeze for one hour; unmold and dress it on the stand, surrounded with small chicks, made also of ice cream, the same as the larger one. THE EPICUREAN. For the nest (Fig. 720), prepare a round nest, the same as Fig. 719, only smaller; fill with small eggs made of assorted ice cream. (3595). PINEAPPLE IN SUEPEISE AND PINEAPPLE MOLDED (Ananas en Surprise et Ananas Monle"), In Surprise. Suppress the stalk from a fine pineapple; empty it out entirely and pack it in ice for one hour. With the inside of the fruit make a pineapple water ice (No. 3606). mixing into it a salpicon of fresh fruits; fill the pineapple and freeze it once more; dress on a napkin and surround with small molded peaches decorated with a stalk and slightly colored over. FIG. T21. Molded. They can also be molded in a pineapple-shaped mold, the top or stalk to be made of pistachio cream (No. 3454) and the pineapple in Andalusian ice cream (No. 3446), colored a reddish yellow. Cut the best pieces from a small pineapple into quarter-inch squares; steep them in kirsch and maraschino for one hour, add pieces of biscuit and macaroons, drain and with this preparation fill the inside of the pineapple. Imbed in ice and freeze for an hour and a half, un- mold and dress on a water socle, serving at once. (3596). RABBIT IN SUEPEISE (Lapin en Surprise). Rabbit or any other animal in surprise, made of spun sugar and serving for covering ices (Fig. 722). For the rabbit or hare make the ice in a half melon-shaped mold; the bear and rabbit in an iced biscuit mold (Fig. 626). These molds can be filled with puddings, parfaits, etc., either with flavors or with fruits; pack in ice, freeze for one hour for each quart, unmold and dress; lay on top either a rabbit, hare or bear of spun sugar and serve. ICES. 1023 ;(3597). SWAN WITH EEEDS AND EUSHES (Le Oygne aux Boseaux). Have an oval bottom made of office paste (No. 143) or wood, half an inch thick, fifteen inches long and eleven wide; glaze it with royal icing (No. 101) of a soft green color and place around an inch and a half from the border a band of pistachio nougat (No. 3622) two and a half inches high, on top of this a platform of sugar cooked white to "crack" (No. 171), and the same size as the band; FIG. 723. garnish around the stand with reeds, rushes, etc., made of pulled sugar. Mold a swan with out- stretched wings and neck in lemon virgin cream (No. 3459), the under part of the wings in coffee (No. 3460) and the body in vanilla (No. 3458); pack it in ice and freeze for two hours. Unmoldand lay this swan in the center of the platform, imitating the eyes with small dry currants. This dish can be garnished all around with flowers made of ice cream placed in small paper cases. (3598). THE HELMET (Le Casque). The helmet shown in Fig. 724, is made in a two-quart tin mold filled with a pudding. When unmolded decorate it with halved pistachios and cover these with a thin layer of straw- FIG. 724. berry ice cream (No. 3451). The crest of the helmet is of vanilla, the edge resting on the socle of chocolate and the whole is dressed on a natural water socle. The feather should be made of spun sugar. 1024 THE EPICTJREAIST. (3599). THE WELL (Le runs;. Have a lead mold the shape of a well and fill it with light vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) ; this mold should have an inside one to form the hollow of the well; freeze for an hour, tinmold it on a water socle dressed on a napkin and fill the inside with half a pound of rice, blanched and cooked Fig. 725. in a light twelve-degree vanilla syrup (No. 3165); drain and add a salpicon of apricots cut in small sticks and shredded pistachios; mix the whole into strawberry ice cream (No. 3451), having mixed into it the same quantity of whipped cream (No. 50) flavored with a little maraschino; the ornament on top should be made of spun sugar, fastened on to the well just when serving (see Fig. 725). (3600), TUKBAN WITH PINEAPPLE OK STKAWBERKY OK SULTANA (Turban aux Ananas on Praises ou Sultane). Put one pint of apricot pulp in a vessel with two gills of almond milk (No. 4) and one gill of FIG. 726. maraschino; add some syrup to bring the preparation to twenty-two degrees, then strain, freeze and mix with it the same quantity of whipped cream (No. 50). Place mis preparation in a turban-shaped mold, pack in ice to freeze for one hour, then unmold ana decorate around the center with some ' ICES. 1025 well-pared, ripe pineapple cut in four, and the hard center core suppressed; then cut up the re- mainder in slices, lay them it in a vessel and bestrew with sugar, pouring over some rum so that they macerate for half an hour. Vanilla Strateberry Turban can be made by mixing in the same quantity of whipped cream (No. 50) after it is frozen; unmold and garnish the center with fresh strawberries macerated in kirsch, maraschino and a little powdered sugar. The turban can also be served plain or else trimmed with a sultana of spun sugar. (3601). WATER ICES-HOW TO PREPARE AND FINISH THEM (Glaces a 1'Eau-Maniere de les Preparer et de les Finir). The base of all water ices is the pulp or juice of fruits, with sugar syrup prepared beforehand at thirty-two degrees, or else substitute a pound and a half of sugar for each quart of water. The syrup gauge (Fig. 167) is the only arbiter for ascertaining the proper degree; they can be prepared from fourteen to twenty-four degrees. At eighteen degrees a thin ice is obtained called granite. Eighteen to nineteen degrees is an excellent degree for water ices prepared for the taste of this country, although in some climates they are made as high as twenty-four degrees. At this degree very fine and consistent ices are formed, but they are objectionably sweet and therefore not, generally liked, so that water ices at eighteen to twenty degrees are considered the best eighteen degrees with fruit pulps and twenty degrees for fruit juices, or sometimes twenty-two, according to the acidity of the fruit. The juice of three lemons make about a gill; for this quan- tity use two pounds and a quarter of sugar and one pint of water, obtaining a quart of syrup at thirty-degrees. To freeze the fruit preparation it requires two freezers, one of a high shape and the other semi-spherical. Before freezing the mixture in the semi-spherical freezer it must be packed in salted ice and the inside wiped out neatly, then pour in about a gill of the preparation to try its consistency, working it with a small spatula, and if found to be sufficiently congealed pour in about two quarts to freeze, setting the semi-spherical freezer in motion and detaching at times with the spatula any particles that may adhere to the sides. As soon as the ice attains a proper consistency remove and lay it in a small, long sorbetiere (freezer) also imbedded in salted ice. The ice should be worked vigorously with the spatula to have it acquire body, then imbed it once more, letting all the superfluous water run out of the hole at the bottom of the pail, adding more salted ice, packing it down with a stick; cover the pail with a lid or a cloth to prevent any air from entering and keep it thus until ready for use. (3602). FRESH FRUIT WATER ICES (Glaces a 1'Eau aux Fruits Frais). Por Peaches, Apricots, Nectarines. Select good fresh plucked fruits, yet not too ripe; split open, suppress the stalks, pith and skins; cut up finely and bestrew with vanilla sugar to hinder from blackening, then strain through a fine sieve. Put the pulp in a vessel and mix in a pint of thirty-two degree syrup for each quart, the juice of two oranges and four lemons and a bit of orange peel. Strain this preparation through a silk sieve and freeze it. As soon as the ice con- geals remove with a spoon and place in a small, long freezer packed in ice; work it vigorously for ten minutes, incorporating slowly a pint of Italian meringue (No. 140) for each quart of syrup, and half a gill of kirsch or noyau; work it again ten minutes to have it smooth. For Cherries, Pomegranates, Currants and Barberries. A pint of fruit pulp for one quart of syrup and one gill or the juice of three lemons. If with cherries, crack the pips to extract and crush the meat and make the syrup of twenty degrees strength. For currants use the juice of two lemons; color with vegetal red, strain through a silk sieve and freeze. (3603). GUANABANA, MELON, MEDLAR, PEAR OR PLUM WATER ICE (Glace a 1'Eau a la Guanabane, au Melon, aux Nefles, Poires ou Prunes). Select fruits that are ripe, having them in preference a little too hard than too soft; they must be fragrant and freshly plucked. Suppress the skins or peels with a knife; press first through a sieve, then through a tammy; put the puree in a vessel, allowing for each quart one pint of cold syrup, the juice of two oranges and four lemons and the peel of half an orange infused in a gill of syrup. Stir all the ingredients well together and bring it to a twenty to twenty-two degree syrup; strain through a very fine Venice or silk sieve and pour into a semi-spherical freezer: allow it to congeal without ceasing to detach with a large spatula every particle adhering to the sides of the freezer. As soon as the ice is all congealed remove it with a spoon and transfer to a small, long 1036 TH^ EPICURE AN. freezer imbedded in salted ice to have it acquire plenty of body, and smooth while still stirring; lastly incorporate three tablespoonfuls of good rum, kirsch or prunelle, mixed with a little of the syrup and frozen preparation, being careful to incorporate it little by little; work again for a few moments, freeze once more and serve. (3604). LEMON WATER ICE AND GRAPE FRUIT ICE (Glace a 1'Eau au Citron et Glace au Poncires). Pour into a vessel some syrup made with two and a quarter pounds of sugar and a pint of water cooked to thirty-two degrees; cool off, then add two gills or the juice of six lemons and the peel of four of the finest among them well washed and wiped; let the preparation attain twenty degrees according to the syrup gauge and infuse therein the peels, leaving them for two hours; strain through a silk sieve and freeze. Another Way. Proportions: Four pounds of sugar, three gills of water, the peel of fifteen lemons and the juice of twenty-five; cook to twenty degrees of the syrup gauge; infuse the peels in this for two hours; strain the whole through a silk sieve and freeze. This quantity will produce a little more than six quarts. Grape Fruit. Prepare this ice the same as lemon water ice, substituting grape fruit for lemons. (3605). ORANGE WATER IOE OR WITH GELATINE (Glace a l'Eau a 1'Orange et a la Gelatine). Take one quart of syrup at thirty-two degrees, five gills of orange juice, the peel of a large orange and one gill of lemon juice. Infuse for two hours, bring it to eighteen or twenty degrees of the syrup gauge, and color with a little carmine; strain through a silk sieve and freeze. Another Way. Six pounds of sugar, four quarts of water, thirty oranges, using the peel of six- teen, and the juice of twelve lemons. Infuse for two hours, bring to twenty degrees, strain through a silk sieve and freeze. This will make about eight quarts. With Gelatine. Have one quart of water, one pound of sugar, the peel and juice of two oranges, the juice of four lemons, a sheet of gelatine weighing a quarter of an ounce, previously dissolved in a little water, then strained through a fine sieve. The ice may be flavored with ex- tract of orange and the lemon replaced by citric acid. (3606). PINEAPPLE WATER ICE (Glace a l'Eau a 1'Ananas). Pineapple can be prepared in two ways, eithel grated or pounded in a mortar or infused in a syrup. Infused in Syrup. Boil a quart of thirty-two degi'ee syrup, add to it one pound of peeled pineapple cut in thin slices, also the peel of one orange; remove from the fire, cover the saucepan, and leave to cool in the syrup, adding one gill or the juice of three lemons; strain forcibly, either through a Venice sieve or a silken one; boil the mixture until it reaches twenty degrees of the syrup gauge and freeze. Another way is to place a pound of sugar in a vessel with two quarts of water and one quart of grated or crushed pineapple; let infuse for two hours; add a leaf and a naif of isinglass dissolved in half a pint of water acidulated with the juice of eight lemons or else melted citric acid; strain through a fine sieve and freeze. Another Way. One quart of grated pineapple, two pounds of sugar, two quarts of water, the juice of sixteen lemons or five gills. Finish the same as water ice (No. 3601). (3607). STRAWBERRY OR RASPBERRY WATER ICE (Glace a l'Eau aux Praises ou aux Fram- boises). Small ripe wild berries are preferable to cultivated ones for these ices. Put one quart of strawberry or raspberry pulp in a basin, and dilute with a pint and a half of cold syrup at thirty degrees; add a little vanilla, the peel of an orange, the juice of two oranges and of four lemons; strain through a silk sieve. The syrup should be from twenty to twenty-two degrees. Another Way. Take eight pounds of powdered sugar, two quarts of fruit pulp, the juice of twenty lemons and six quarts of water; color to a light red with vegetal carmine. Bring it to twenty degrees of the syrup gauge, strain through a silk sieve and freeze. ICES. 1027 ICED DEINKS, (3608). ICED CHOCOLATE (Chocolat Glaofi). Dissolve a pound of sweet chocolate in a quart of water with half a bean of vanilla; when cold stir in a quart of cream, then strain through a fine sieve. Another way is to take a pound of sweet chocolate, half a pint of water and half a vanilla bean; when the chocolate is all dissolved and cold mix into it three pints of cream and a gill of thirty-two degree syrup; strain through a sieve and put it into a freezer with lightly salted ice around, and serve in glasses. (3609). ICED OOPPEE (daft Glaoft Black Coffee. Iced coffee, as it is called in New York, is simply black coffee cooled in a china freezer, having lightly salted ice placed around. Mixed Coffee. Mixed coffee is prepared the same, only mixing the whole of the following ingredients together: One pint of milk, one gill of cream, one quart of black coffee and one gill of syrup at thirty-two degrees. Put the mixture into a china or enameled freezer with lightly salted ice around, and serve when the coffee is exceedingly cold. Brandy Coffee. One quart of black coffee, six ounces of sugar, one gill of brandy; to be mixed and cooled the same as the black coffee. Iced Coffee in Sherbet. Have one quart of black coffee mixed with one quart of cream and twelve ounces of sugar; place it in a freezer with salted ice around, detach from the sides as fast as the ice adheres, and when sufficiently cold and firm serve in glasses. (3610). GRAMOLATES OE GRANITE WITH ORANGE (Gramolates on Granit a 1'Orange), Put in a vessel one quart of fifteen-degree syrup, the juice and peels of three oranges; cover over and leave infuse for one hour; add the juice of four lemons and a little orange vegetal car- mine; strain through a silk sieve and freeze. Peel three oranges to the pulp, remove the pulp by passing the knife near each section and lay the pieces in a bowl with a very little sugar andkirsch; steep for half an hour then add it to the ice and serve in glasses. (3611). GRANITE IN WATER BOTTLES WITH CURRANTS, CHERRIES, POMEGRANATES, ETC (Granits en Carafes a la Groseille, anx Cerises, Grenades, etc). Granites are made the same as water ices, flavored with any desired fruits, the sole difference being that they must not be worked and must only attain fourteen degrees of the saccharometer; when the composition is ready pour it in water bottles having very wide necks; pack these in ice with half as much salt as for ordinary ices. Detach from the sides with a small boxwood spatula. Serve in the same decanters or else in glasses. (3612). GRAPE FRUITS A LA MADISON (Poncires a la Madison). The grape fruit is a species of large yellow orange, resembling the Florida orange; it is slightly bitter. Select those that are not too large, cut them across in two, empty the insides, keeping it all in a vessel, and notch the edges of the peel in points; remove the small rounds from the center and then place them to cool in a freezing-box. Prepare a mixture the same as orange punch, Russian style (No. 3613), the only difference to observe being that all the fruit juice must be used; bring to twelve degrees and let cool to a granite (No. 3611), then serve in the prepared peels. 1028 THE EPICUREAN. (3613). ORANGE PUNCH, RUSSIAN STYLE-UNFROZEN COLD DRINK (Punch Orange a la Russe Boisson Froide non Grele~e). Slit open with a tin tube an inch and a half in diameter the top of eight oranges on the side opposite to the stalk, empty them out entirely, wipe neatly and set them in low paper cases to keep them level. On the round piece removed from the orange fasten two long straws, tying them together with a ribbon passed through two holes. Put these oranges for at least two hours beforehand in a box and pack with ice and very little salt, not to freeze the rinds. Place in a freezer one pint of orange juice obtained from the pulp of the emptied oranges and strained through a fine strainer, add to it two gills of water, six ounces of sugar, a gill of rum, half a gill of kirsch, the peel of two oranges and the juice of four lemons; flavor it properly, either by adding or removing any of the ingredients; strain the whole through a very fine silk sieve and freeze with ice and a little salt. Just when ready to serve fill the oranges and serve them at once. The straws are used for drinking the contents of the orange. Fig. 727. (Oonfiserie). (3614). OENTEE PIECES-PYRAMIDS (Pieces Months), Table ornaments called pyramids are used for replacing the cold pieces in the third service for French dinners. They are placed on the table at the beginning and at the dessert for a Russian dinner. The principal object is to flatter the eye of the guests by their regularity, their smoothness and their finish. To attain this end it is necessary that the subjects be chosen according to the circumstances in which the dinner is offered. Special care must be taken that they be faultlessly executed. The pieces can be selected from a number of designs, such as: Swiss cottages, temples, pavilions, towers, pagodas, mosques, fortresses, hermitages, belvederes, cabins, cascades, houses, fountains, ruins, rotundas or tents; then there are lyres, harps, helmets, boats, cornucopias, vases, baskets, hampers, beehives, trophies both military and musical, fine arts, agriculture, navigation, commerce, science, etc. A very prolific branch almost entirely overlooked is a figure representing some well-known character. Then come animals, trees and flowers, which offer an infinite number of beautiful subjects. Few workmen are capable of making these different styles of pieces, their talent being limited, for their use is confined to a very small number of houses. There- fore it would be most useful if the workman engaged in making these pieces confine himself solely to figures, as this art is certain to become fashionable in the near future. Authors of the best works on cooking and pastry only casually mention these ornamental pieces. The workman while executing them must give his entire attention and talent, for the persons before whom they are generally placed are accustomed to works of art. In case he finds it impossible to produce a perfect figure, then he had better devote himself to other kinds of work in which perfection need not be so scrupulously followed; for, after all, these pieces only serve to decorate one dinner, and consequently are very rarely preserved. Still, whatever style of work he may see fit to undertake, let him endeavor to excel and attain the pinnacle of perfection. A well-executed idea has more merit than a well-finished, but badly conceived one. The quantity of figures and subjects to select from are numerous. First, we have mythology; what a fertile theme here a Cupid on a shell drawn by swans; Neptune among the tritons and Naiads; Bacchus; the Centaurs; the Muses; scenes from Iliad and Odyssey ! How delightfully ingenuous would be a group representing Venus teach- ing Cupid the art of dancing: the young one in the act and the mother directing his steps; Apollo playing the flute and Jupiter benignly watching the scene, surrounded by other gods and goddesses. Then we have the history of the flood: Noah standing at the door of the Ark contemplating the ingress of all the animals into it. We can choose from the customs of different ancient and modern nations: the Normandy peasants dancing opposite to each other; a Tyrolian descending a rock carrying on his back the carcass of a chamois ; an American Indian dressed in war garb burying the tomahawk; or a Tartar on horseback. Then there are scenes in ordinary life. We can also choose from animated nature: birds, animals, the fox ready to attack an innocent rabbit, fish, swans on a lake surrounded by their families, birds pecking their young, and many other interesting subjects too numerous to mention. (3615). OENTEE PIECES} EXPLANATION OF VARIOUS FIGURES (Pieces Mont&s; Explication des Differents Sujets). These figures as far as the letter I can be used for all pyramids, either of cooked, poured or spun sugar or of gum paste; adjust four to six pieces equally distant, and fasten them together; fill the intersections with arabesques, as in G and H, and surmount the whole with an ornament or bunch of flowers made of web sugar, the same as shown on piece K. On the projections of piece K, LLL rings of poured sugar can be placed, filling the centers with iced fruits; in the empty spaces can also be ranged sticks of poured sugar covered with fruits or small cakes, bonbons, almond paste, etc. The figures F and A show the effect that can be produced by using simpler methods. A is merely decorated with small arabesques, shown in I, in half their natural size; (1029) 1030 THE EPICUREAN. FIG. 730 FIG. 729 J. FIG. 731. CONFECTIONERY. 1031 on F small sticks are fastened one to the other. Fig. 728 is made of nougat; the frog to be of green pistachio nougat molded in a varnished and oiled plaster mold; the rushes are green and brown. Fig. 730 represents a cactus on a two-shelved socle made of Parisian nougat; the flower pot is of nougat containing chopped almonds and chocolate; the plant is of green pistachio nougat to imi- tate the cactus. The lighthouse (Fig. 731) is of gum paste; the chimney on top of the house, from whence arises the smoke, is imitated in wadding; the branches of the tree of very fine wire covered with finely cut paper to represent the leaves, and the trunk to be of gum paste or fine wire covered with silk. The staircase and the boat are of gum paste; the boat lies on a piece of looking glass. The J and M are meant for forming socles for raising the low pieces, such as the frog, etc. J is made in three pieces that can be used independently, so as to make the socle either higher or lower. (3616). CENTER PIECES OF COOKED SUGAR (Pieces Monties en Sucre Ouit). For cooked sugar see Elementary Methods (No. 171). It is always necessary to have sugar cooked in advance so that each time some is wanted it will not have to be prepared, especially when only a little is to be used at a time. Have some sugar cooked to "large crack" (No. 171); when it reaches three hundred and thirty degrees add to it the juice of a quarter of a lemon and leave cook to three hundred and fifty degrees, then pour it hastily on a FIG. 732. thick marble sufficiently large to allow it to cool, then detach and set it away in hermetically closed tin boxes. To make web or spun sugar, first melt it slowly in a small copper pan, a little at a time, being careful it does not change color. This sugar is used for spinning sultanas, for making ornaments in spun sugar, or it can be used for Parisian nougat and even for candy- ing fruits, reducing its degree by introducing a little syrup at thirty-two degrees or else some glucose. For spun sugar pieces lightly trace with a pencil on an unpolished and very lightly oiled marble the outlines of the design needed for reproduction; cover this tracing with a thread of firm royal icing, either large or small according to the size of the piece. Fill in between these threads of icing with melted sugar, white or colored; detach the piece from the marble before it is thoroughly cold, as then they are apt to break easily. Instead of using royal icing the tracing can be outlined with a thread of spin- ning sugar of a different color from that used in the inside; put all the pieces together, attaching them in four, six, or eight, and ornament them here and there, when fastened, according to taste, with candied fruits, bonbons, or else small cakes, almond paste, etc. ; decorate with flowers or leaves made of FIG. 733. sugar molded in oiled tin molds, dipped in sugar cooked to "crack," lightly cooled in its pan, then hung by a wire to hooks slightly apart so they cannot touch one another. Unmold as soon as they begin to cool and place on grates until ready for use. Sheaves can also be made (an imitation of sheaves of rye or wheat) in very finely drawn sugar, fastened with an imitation band prepared with the same sugar. These sheaves may be colored or white, according to the taste; the sugar should be cooked to three hundred and thirty-five degrees. Pieces may also be decorated with pulled sugar flowers. (3617). TO KEEP SUBJECTS OR PIECES (Pour Conserver les Sujets ou Pieces Monties). Pyramids made of spun sugar or nougat can be kept in a perfect state of preservation by standing them under a plain glass globe to protect them from the action of the air. But should it be necessary to keep them for several days, then they must certainly be placed under a glass globe fitting on to a hollow wooden stand opening on the top, having its surface bored with holes and the empty space filled in with bits of quicklime. The lime has the faculty of absorbing all the humidity of the atmosphere; in this way sugar can be kept intact for an indefinite period, especially in winter time and damp weather. Pieces made of royal icing or gum paste can also be kept for a long while if the above method be followed. 1032 THE (3618), FLOWEES OF FULLED SUGAK (Fleurs en Sucre Tire). Among the various objects that can be made of pulled sugar must be mentioned flowers and all kinds of leaves, which with a little taste and skill can be beautifully imitated, and if this branch FIG. 735. FIG. 736. FIG. 737. of decoration is studied it can become one of artistic merit. At the beginning learners should not undertake the task of making difficult flowers, such as roses, dahlias, or other flowers having numerous petals, but must be satisfied with more simple ones, such as apple blossoms, wild roses, poppies, pansies, etc. Cook the sugar to "large crack "(No. 171), or 335 degrees Fahrenheit, being careful to have it very clear, transparent and grainless. Let it get cold on a marble slab. Melt a pound of this sugar in a copper pan, keeping it as white as possible. Pour a tablespoonful of the syrup on the marble, and add to it the color- ing matter for the intended flowers; pound the color should it be dry; then pour over the melted sugar, and work the whole together with a spatula, and afterward with the hand until it becomes smooth and tractable. Put this pulled sugar into a mold, or on a lightly oiled dish, and then in a heater which should regis- ter 170 degrees Fahrenheit. It will be enough for us to explain the making of just a few kinds of flowers, in order that the work for all others may be understood. For in- stance, we will begin with a cluster of apple blossoms: Take from the heater a small quantity of very white pulled sugar, and dipping the finger in corn starch to prevent them sticking to the sugar make some petals as shown in Fig. 735, pressing it down between the thumb and first finger as thinly as possible, and detaching it with a pair of scissors as fast and as soon as it is pressed into shape, varying the shapes BO that when finished they are not all alike. Use the flame of a small gas stove to keep the sugar soft; now heat the bottom of each petal over this gas flame, and adjust five of them togther to form each separate flower (Fig. 736). Make also buds and partly opened flowers. Color a little gum paste a bright yellow with a small wooden or bone tool, and form the inside. Paint the edges of the petals a pale pink j FIG. 738. FIG. 739. FIG. 740. FIG. 741. CONFECTIONERY. 1033 also the buds, being careful to use the coloring matter as dry as possible. Now color a little of the pulled sugar green and form the leaves the same way as the flowers, afterward pressing them on a lightly oiled plaster mold to mark the veins (Fig. 740, No. 3). Melt all the fragments of the various colored pulled sugars, and add to it some cocoa, and with it coat various lengths of wire; twist them to resemble branches of trees, and stick them together (Fig. 740, No. 4), and on it mount the flowers and buds (Fig. 741). Proceed exactly the same for all petal flowers, such as leaves, roses, violets, tulips, poppies and pansies (see Fig. 737, No. 7, for the pansies). The bunch of apple blossoms, if well made, is most natural. For calla lilies the operation is entirely different. Leave the sugar, pulled very white, in the heater until it runs slightly. The principal object is to work it quickly. Take a small piece from the heater, the size of a walnut, and roll it with the rolling-pin on marble as thinly as possible, always using corn starch for the roller and fingers. Cut the sugar rapidly with the scissors into pieces the shape of leaves, having the bottom part pulled out lengthways; heating these over the gas, should the sugar get too cold (Fig. 738, No. 8), bend them into cornets (Fig. 738, No. 9), always while heating, and fold the edges outward (Fig. 738, No. 10). Color a little sugar a bright yellow, and make the inside of the flower. Coat it lightly with gum arable, and roll it in powdered sugar that has already been tinted to a fine yellow. Leaves are made the same way; roll them out with the roller, cut them into long shapes, and press on a plaster mold to mark the veins. Mount the flowers and leaves on stalks of wire covered with green sugar (Fig. 739). The principal thing to be observed when making any object, either of sugar or nougat, is to perform the work as speedily as possible, for the less the pulled sugar is heated at the gas flame the more beautiful and brilliant it will remain, and its glossy luster will not be marred. Satinated Pulled Sugar. Place three and a half pounds of lump sugar in an untinned copper pan and moistening with one quart of lukewarm water, leave soak for a few moments. Cook it on a brisk fire, skim and wash the same as for caramel and after a few boils add a heaping coffee- spoonful of cream of tartar. Let the sugar attain three hundred degrees, then pour it on to a very cold, slightly oiled marble. When sufficiently cold to allow it to be handled mass it all together and pull it slowly, then mass again with the palm of the hand; pull it again a little, just sufficient to give it a clouded appearance. Put it in the heater and use small quantities, according to the work to be done, pulling and massing to givp it a brilliant surface. Never use this sugar when too hot, on the contrary work it as cold as possible so that it will not lose its brilliancy. Flowers, leaves, baskets, etc., can be made with satinated sugar. (3619), MATERIALS FOR MAKING EASY PIECES (Matieres Pour Faire les Pieces Faciles). Macaroons, candied fruits, small cakes, bonbons, meringues or marchpanes fastened together and applied on conical-shaped molds, having their base measuring eight to ten inches in diameter, and ending in a point one inch in diameter; this style of piece is not much used nowadays except in ordinary balls or banquets. It is gum paste, nougat, royal icing and cooked sugar that the prettiest pieces are made of, and in these the true artist can be readily distinguished. (3620). IMITATION OP NATURAL GREEN ALMONDS (Imitation d'Amandes Vertes Naturelles). Prepare a cooked almond paste the same as explained in the Elementary Methods (No. 125); davor it with orange flower water and tinge it to alight green color. Mold this paste into medium- sized olive shapes, split them lengthwise through the center and in the crack lay a fine white almond; mold and work the paste to have it assume the form of a natural green almond, then lay them as fast as done on a wire sieve and place in the heater to dry. When finished leave to get cold and glaze over with sugar cooked to " crack " (No. 171). (3621), BROWN NOUGAT FOR CENTER PIECES (Nougat Bran Pour Pieces Monte'esX Put into a copper pan one pound of powdered sugar and the juice of a quarter of a lemon; melt the sugar on a moderate fire, and when entirely dissolved stir in one pound of almonds, either chopped or slightly shredded; these are to be heated at the oven door, but great care must be paid that the almonds be not too hot, for should the sugar be slightly colored then the nougat would become too brown; should the almonds be too hot then have the sugar simply melted, and again, if the sugar be very hot, it is unnecessary to heat them only slightly. The best nougat for eating is made with melted sugar, but for elaborate panel pieces requiring much cutting it is better to use 1034 THE EPICUREAN. cooked sugar, the same as used for spinning work, without diluting with syrup. Almonds are used in the proportion of six to eight ounces for every pound of sugar. This nougat is certainly not so good for eating as the preceding, but it is much easier to work, for it cools with less rapidity and bends with more facility. It can be molded in arabesque molds made of plaster, or else pressed on to tin leaves to form moldings around different sized rings, or else around sticks to form columns. The nougat is cut out when in a flat three-sixteenths of an inch thick, or even thinner, with cardboard designs applied on, then cut avay all around; these cardboards should be cut out beforehand into any shapes, such as rounds, ovals, squares, oblongs, triangles, etc. (3622), PAEISIAN, WHITE AND PISTACHIO NOUGAT (Nougat Parisien, Blanc et aux Pistaches). Parisian. This nougat is made of hulled almonds split lengthwise and dried in a hot closet. After dipping them in melted cooked sugar apply them in a large biscuit mold slightly oiled, the flat side of the almond lying against the inside of the mold. If a cylinder mold is used, eight inches high by six in diameter, dip the almonds in the melted sugar and then take them up one by one with a larding needle and range them on their flat side in a double reversed wreath. White Nougat. White nougat is made of almonds split in two through their thickness and warmed in a heater. Melt in an untinned copper pan one pound of powdered sugar with a tablespoonful of lemon juice; melt this sugar without coloring and when well dissolved mix in the halved almonds. Mold in a plain cylindrical mold, cut off even with the top, and when cold un- mold on a baking sheet and decorate either with candied fruits or spun sugar. Pistachio Nougat. Have a pound of peeled and very dry pistachio nuts, leave them whole and warm in a heater. Melt a pound of powdered sugar on a slow fire with a tablespoonful of lemon juice; finish the same as the white. Roll both the white and pistachio nougat to a quarter of an inch thick and cut into inch and a quarter bands. This nougat is to be molded in plain and almost straight timbale molds, having just sufficient flare to allow the nougat to be unmolded; garnish the bottom of the mold with a round of pink nougat, (white nougat slightly colored with carmine); adjust the bands on the bias, alternating the white, and fasten them on the inside with bits of nougat dipped in sugar. These nougats are ornamented with fanciful designs of spun sugar. On top place a cupola of spun sugar and over an aigrette of web sugar, or any other tasteful deco- ration. Nougat is also made of hazel-nuts, common nuts, peanuts, Brazil nuts or butter-nuts; in fact with all kinds of almonds, and finished as explained for the others. (3623). ALMOND PASTE CANDIED (Pate d'Amandes an Candi), Shell and peel fourteen ounces of sweet almonds; leave to soak in fresh water for three horn's, then pound to a pulp with a little water and kirsch, half of each, just sufficient to moisten the almonds so they do not oil. Cook a pound of sugar to " crack " (No. 171), in a round bottom sugar pan, mix the almonds in with the sugar and dry them for a few moments over a slow fire. If for chocolate almond paste add a little grated chocolate or else partly dissolved chocolate. "White almond paste is colored with vegetal colorings (No. 172). Roll this paste to three-eighths of an inch in thickness and cut it up in small fanciful patterns; dry them in the heater and when sufficiently dry put them to candy (No. 3640) ; they can be flavored with vanilla or any other flavoring. (3624). GUM PASTE (Pastillage.) This is the manner of preparing gum paste used for various purposes: Have half a pound of very white Turkey gum tragacanth either in a glass vessel or a glazed one; wet the gum just sufficiently to have it covered, then close the vessel and leave it at least twelve hours or more. "When the gum is quite soft and every hard particle disappears under the pressure of the finger put the gum in a heavy new towel; roll the two ends of this around two strong sticks and then twist each forcibly in a contrary direction until all the gum has passed through; lay it on a clean marble and work with the hand, incorporating half a pound of icing sugar sifted through a fine sieve, using more if the gum can absorb a larger quantity. Should the gum paste have too much consistence and recede while working, add a little water and sugar. (It is always preferable to have gum paste prepared the day before.) When it is required for making subjects, figures, dressing, draping, etc., or any other object that requires much manipulation, put a third CONFECTIONERY. 1035 less sugar to the above and replace it by corn starch. Should the gum paste now split it will be the result of too much body, therefore add a little water, sugar, corn starch, etc. If hard lumps be found in the gum tragacanth this is caused from it not being sufficiently or quickly worked with the sugar. For gum paste ornaments and architectural designs ordinary gum paste must be used all sugar and no starch (only gum, icing sugar and water). Put in as much icing sugar as the gum can absorb without having too much, otherwise it will be impossible to work the paste. Should the edges of the pieces that have been cut out rise up, it is because the paste has too much body, therefore add to it a little ordinary gum paste, icing sugar and water. There must be no contraction whatever; the pieces once cut must remain as they are; dry them in the air, being careful that no dust settles on them and avoid any strong draught. With these cut-out pieces of gum paste pyramids are prepared, using cardboard models prepared in advance. They can be kept when very dry, wrapping them up carefully and placing them on edge between sheets of tissue paper and putting the pieces for each pyramid in a box to be kept in a dry place. When required for use fasten all the pieces of gum paste together with gum paste dissolved in water, having it liquid enough to force through a cornet, or else use royal icing. The paste can be colored with vegetal colorings, or gold, bronze or silver impalpable powders, after exposing the objects a few moments to steam. The gum paste may also be varnished with a varnish prepared as follows: Put a coffeespoonful of cream of tartar into a pint of milk; set it in a hot place and when the milk has soured filter and add four ounces of pulverized gum arabic, four ounces of spirits of wine and one small dissolved gelatine leaf; pour the whole into a bottle and stand it in a hot place for a few hours, then strain thi*ough a fine sieve and keep well corked in a cool spot. (3625). MALAGA KAISINS STUFPED AND GLAZED (Eaisins de Malaga Farcis et GlaceY ; Split some fine Malaga raisins in two without separating the parts; remove the seeds and stuff one-third with a half-inch ball of almond paste (No. 125) colored white, another third with the same paste colored pink and the remaining third of almond paste with pistachios (No. 128); all these pastes to be prepared with cooked sugar (No. 3616); roll them into olive shapes, leaving the almond or pistachio paste show through the opening, and lay them at once on a wire sieve, then place in the heater to let get dry and glaze with sugar cooked to " crack " (No. 171). (3626). TO SPIN SUGAR BY THROWING (Pour Tiler le Sucre a la Jet&X First have a spinner constructed as follows: On the entire surface of a round of sheet iron five Inches in diameter and an eighth of an inch thick are to be riveted wire pegs an eighth of an inch in diameter and three and a half inches long, and at three-quarters of an inch apart from each other. A solid handle is fastened to the spinner. Cook in a copper pan two or three pounds of sugar to " large crack" (No. 171) or three hundred degrees Fahrenheit. As soon as done remove from the fire. Place several clean and oiled baking sheets on the floor. With the left hand take a small stick and hold it horizontally to the height of the chest or else lay it project- ing over the edge of a table; with the right hand plunge the spinner into the sugar, take it out and drain off all the superfluous sugar; then, moving the instrument vigorously backward and forward over the small stick until all the sugar has run off in threads, redip the spinner into the sugar and begin the same movement again, continuing until all the sugar is spun. In case there be no spinner handy, a spoon can be used, dipping it into the cooked sugar, lifting it out and leaving all the surplus sugar drain off by moving it backward and forward the same as the spinner. (3627). SUGAR FOR CASTING IN MOLDS (Sucre a Oouler dans les Modes). Place some lumps of sugar in a copper pan; pour over sufficient water to soak and leave till dissolved, when mix in a few drops of acetic acid and cook to 245 degrees; then remove from the fire, color a light blue with ultramarine blue and rub it against the sides of the pan with a wooden spoon to grain it. Pour it at once into molds; plaster ones a::e generally used for this purpose, having them properly dipped in cold water, then well drained and tied around firmly with a string so that the sugar cannot escape from the joints of the mold. After the mold is full wait until the sugar congeals on top, then break this thin crust and turn the mold upside down to empty out all the liquid sugar in order to have the subject hollow in the center. Unmold carefully, removing each piece one by one; pare them neatly and lea" r e to cool in a dry, but not a hot place. 1035 THE EPICUREAN. LAKGE PIECES (Qrandes Pieces), (3628). BASKETS FILLED WITH CANDIED FRUITS, OR ICE CREAM FRUITS (Oorbeilles G-arnies de Fruits, ou de Fruits en Glace). Take some ordinary nougat (No. 3621) and roll it out to a quarter of an inch in thickness; from it cut a round ten inches in diameter. Prepare twenty-one wires, each five inches long, coat them with a layer of colored pulled sugar (No. 3618) three-sixteenths of an inch thick and fasten them FIG. 743 to the round of nougat at half an inch from the edge, leaving an inch space between each one. Have some pulled sugar, either white or colored; imitate a rope and arrange it around the base ofr the basket; pull some more sugar and roll it into strings a quarter of an inch thick and three feet long; make a braid of this sugar the same as a wicker basket going in and out of the wires COB- FIG. 744. tinuing as far as the top, finishing the whole with another rope the same as the bottom. Make the handles two and a half inches in diameter with the same sugar and pass them through rings fastened with sugar cooked to "crack (No. 171). Inside the upper part of the basket arrange a nougat foundation and cover it either with candied fruits, fresh fruits or else those made of ice cream or water ice. (3629). PERRETTE'S BASKET (Le Panier de Perrette), Have some nougat made of chopped almonds (No. 3621); roll it out to a quarter of an inch in thickness and cut it into an oval nine by five inches. Have sixteen pieces of wire, each six inches long; cover all of them with a three-sixteenths of an inch layer of pulled and colored sugar (No. 3618); bend each one separately while the sugar is still hot, then fasten them around the nougat CONFECTIONERY. 1037 oval, an inch from the border; spread the wires outward on top. Make a rope of pulled white sugar, place it around the bottom of the basket; roll some more pulled sugar into quarter-inch diameter strings and braid it around the wires, finishing the top with another braid of pulled sugar. In the FIG. 745. center fasten a sufficiently large handle, cover it with flowers and leaves made of pulled sugar and at one end tie a pretty satin ribbon bow three inches in width and of a color harmonizing with the basket. Put a nougat bottom inside the basket at two-thirds of its height, then fill up with chest- nuts made of chestnut paste iced over with chocolate, or else ice cream in imitation of mushrooms, strawberries, etc. (3630). BASKET WITH OHEREIES (Panier de Cerises). To begin this basket first have an oval board ten and a half inches long by six inches wide; all around this oval bore holes a quarter of an inch in diameter and one inch apart from each other. Cut as many pieces of wire four and a half inches long as there are holes perforated in the board; straighten and envelop them in cooked sugar to form into sticks three-sixteenths FIG. 746. of an inch thick. After these sticks are cold dip the ends of each one separately in melted sugar and fasten them in the holes in the board. Now prepare some pulled sugar as described in No. 3618; take a little of this at a time and pull it into strings a quarter of an inch thick, and with these braid the basket as high as the top of the sticks. Pull two sticks with the same sugar, only slightly thicker than those used for braiding the basket and a little longer than half the circum- 1038 THE EPICUREAN ference of the basket; fasten these two sticks together and twist them so as to imitate a thick rope; flatten this partly and fasten it at once on half of the edge of the basket, then pull two more sticks the same as the others, twist them the same way to obtain another thick rope, flatten it also and fasten it to the other half of the basket's edge. To make the handle pull three strings of sugar the same thickness and twenty inches long, braid them together and as soon as this is done bend the plait so as to shape the handle and when it is cold attach it to the basket. The two covers are made as follows: Pull two strings of sugar five-sixteenths of an inch thick, and bend each one so as to form a frame the shape and size of the opening of the basket, then pull more strings and while they are still hot fasten them diagonally on to these frames, and on top of these fasten others, crossing them in such a way that they form a lattice work. When these covers are finished attach them solidly against the handle of the basket. Trim around the base of the basket with a wreath of leaves, either gilded or silvered, arranging them symmetrically. Fill the basket tastefully with cherries made of almond paste (No. 125) and leaves of pulled sugar. (3631). "BON VOYAGE" BOAT SERVED AT A PAKEWELL DINNER (Bateau "Bon Voyage," Servi k 1'Occasion d'un Depart). The shell of the boat is made of brown nougat (No. 3621), molded in a plaster mold, oiled and varnished with shellac, first well dried, then oiled; the masts are made of wire covered with pulled sugar (No. 3618) of a yellowish hue; the cordage of silk, and the sails of pulled sugar exceedingly white, remelted on a slow fire, and rolled out speedily with a roller, then cut with cardboard patterns into the shape of the various sails, afterward laid on sheets of tin bent to the needed form. The waves are imitated in pulled sugar of a greenish color, and the letters on the standard are painted with gold paint. The entire boat can be made of white or colored gum paste (No. 3624), and the water FIG. 74 imitated with green royal icing (No. 101). This piece may be filled either with fresh or candied fruits, such as Malaga grapes stuffed with almond paste (No. 125); candied cherries or strawberries and angelica, or else instead of these have imitation flowers made of ice cream and angelica lozenges. (3632). CHARIOT PILLED WITH LADY APPLES (Chariot Garni de Pommes d'Api). To make the chariot the wheels must first be constructed. The hoops of the wheels are made with thick bands of nougat (No. 3621), three-quarters of an inch broad; bend these around a cylindrical mold four inches in diameter and stick the parts together with cooked sugar (No. 3616). To make the spokes of these wheels, roll out some nougat to three-eighths of an inch in thickness and then divide it into small sticks half the length of the diameter of the hoops of the wheels; when these are all cold fasten the small sticks inside the wheel with cooked sugar, having them laid at even distances apart, and fasten a small round piece of nougat in the center to imitate the naves of the wheel; now make the axles with two pieces of strong wire, each six and a half inches in length; en- velop these in cooked sugar and when cold attach them firmly on the wheels. Make the bottom of the chariot with a layer of nougat twelve inches long by six wide and when this is very cold CONFECTIONERY. 1039 fasten it solidly on the axles. Next make the two ladders as hereby described: Roll out a band of nougat to five-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, pare it straight and even on both ends, having it twelve inches long; divide it lengthwise into four very straight sticks five-sixteenths of an inch wide; roll out some more nougat to a quarter of an inch in thickness and cut this into even sticks three and a quarter inches long; take up two of the long sticks, lay them down parallel at three and a quarter inches distance apart and between these attach diagonally a row of the small sticks slightly apart from one another, and again on these a second row also laid diagonally, but in an opposite direction, so that one row crosses the other. Having finished the first ladder, proceed to make the second. Fasten these two ladders solidly on the bottom of the chariot and against the FIG. 748. wheels. Make the shafts with two very thin wires enveloped in cooked sugar and when cold attact them to the front of the chariot. The socle is now to be made: Have two flats of nougat three- sixteenths of an inch thick, one for the upper part to be seventeen inches long by eleven and a half wide, and the second one for the bottom nineteen inches long by thirteen and a half inches wide; also make four nougat bands for the framework and fasten them firmly with cooked sugar; on this framework lay the second flat and fasten it also to form the socle or stand; fasten around the bottom of this socle a triple row of nougat points cut very evenly and placed symmetrically; decorate the border of the second flat with oak leaves and acorns made of sugar, and lastly con- struct the fence with sticks of nougat cut a quarter of an inch in thickness. Lay the chariot on this stand and fill it with small lady apples formed of gum paste (No. 3624) or grained sugar, and fasten here and there some apple leaves made of cooked sugar. (3833). OHAKIOT OP DOVES (Le Chariot des Colombes). The body of the chariot is made and molded of white nougat (No. 3622) in a plaster mold, divided in two, well garnished with shellac and oiled; the border of the shell is made of almond 1040 THE EPICUREAN. paste (No. 125) and gum tragacanth cut out in a design; the wheels are of nougat or pulled sugar (No. 3618), the spokes, the ring and the axle cut out separately and fastened together with cooked sugar; the nails are imitated with royal icing (No. 101); the shafts are made of wire covered with FIG. toougat or pulled sugar. Stand the chariot on an oval stand of pistachio nougat (No. 3622) the size of the bottom of the dish intended for serving. Place a false nougat bottom inside the chariot, then fill it up with candied fruits iced over with caramel and angelica. This chariot can also be made of gum paste (No. 3624) and filled with candied fruits or fruits and flowers of all descriptions made in ice cream or water ice. (3634). CHARIOT OP SWANS (Le Char des Oygnes), This piece is made entirely of gum paste (No. 3624), the swan is molded in a two-piece plaster mold, the two halves of the swan are fastened together, the crevices filled with softened gum paste, then thoroughly dried. Wash off with a sponge and imitate the eyes and beaks with a brush. FIG. 750. The shell is also molded in a dry plaster mold and is decorated on the outspread parts with designs of gum paste bronzed or gilded. On the thin end of the shell stand a Cupid made of gum paste; the ring encircling the swan is of gum paste, the reins of silk and the harness of satin ribbon ; the whole is made to stand on an oval bottom cut the size of the dish it is served on. The waves are made of royal icing (No. 101) tinted a pale green. Fill the chariot with iced candied fruits, candies, or else ice cream or water ices. (3635). CORNUCOPIA, HORN OF PLENTY (Come d'Abondance), This cornucopia is molded in a mold the shape of Fig. 751. It is made of pulled sugar (No. 3618), remelted and rolled out with a roller this must be done very quickly or else it can be made of white nougat (No. 3622) decorated with royal icing (No. 101) or of gum paste (No. 3624). Fasten it on the opening side on a nougat surtout, and support the body of the cornucopia by fastening two rests molded in gum paste in a two-piece mold, and place a wire in the center of each; attach the two pieces together and let get very dry. The cornucopia is surmounted by a gum paste Cupid; the inside border of the opening of the dish is made of pulled sugar and is composed of rings, with smaller ones of a darker color placed inside of one another; bend them lightly to spread open on sheets of tin, then fasten them to the inside border of the dish with cooked sugar; between each CONFECTIOXERY. 1041 one arrange a lozenge of glazed angelica. The opening of the cornucopia is filled with candied fruits, or else others made of chestnut or almond paste (No. 125), and glazed with sugar cooked to "crack" (No. 171). This piece may be made of white gum paste (No. 3624) and decorated with gold reliefs, or it may be utilized by replacing the fruits with fruits imitated in cream or water ices. (3636), THE DOSSER A LA DENIYELLE (La Hotte a la Denivelle). Koll out some nougat (No. 3621) to a quarter of an inch in thickness, and from it cut with either a tin or oiled cardboard pattern a piece fifteen inches long by six on one end and four on the other in FIG. width, rounding the six-inch end which is for the upper part of the dosser; also cut another piece of a semicircular shape four inches in diameter by two and a half inches in radius. Prepare eleven wires, two eight inches long, two of seven and three-quarters, two of seven and a half, two of seven and a quarter, two of seven and one of six and three-quarters inches; coat them all with THE EPICUREAN. colored sugar. Fasten the semi-circular bottom on the large piece at its narrowest end, near the edge; on this bottom arrange the wires, beginning with the eight-inch ones on each side beside the back of the dosser, and continuing with the othei's according to their various lengths, ar the; same time spreading them open toward the top. Coat with green sugar two more wires each nine inches long, and leave to cool. Cut out a round bottom twelve inches in diameter, then fasten the dosser on the center of it, pressing it against the two long wires to be used for a support; decorate the whole profusely with leaves and flowers made of satinated pulled sugar (No. 3618), and fill the dosser with mushrooms or strawberries made of almond paste (No. 125), also some angelica coated \\ith sugar cooked to "crack " (No. 171). The docker may be filled with small ices imitating flowers. (3637). VASES OF PULLED AND DKAWff SUGAE (Vases en Sucre File" et Tire). All pieces that are made of pulled and spun sugar are exceedingly useful for many reasons, as large-sized pieces can be executed at a comparatively low cost and yet be most elegant, grace- ful and light; besides the rapidity of the execution, they can be made to assume a great variety of shapes, and all this with very few or even no molds. The designs shown in Figs. 753 and 754, FIG. 753 . FIG. 754. will demonstrate the many uses to be made of pulled and spun sugar, and although they demand much skill and attention, yet they do not offer the same difficulties as gum paste. The socles or stands for these pieces may be of white nougat (No. 3622), molded and cut out, and the embellishments around the base of the vases may also be of almond paste (No. 125) glazed with caramel. The three swans seen on one of the socles are made of very white cooked sugar (320 degrees Fahrenheit), poured into slightly oiled tin molds; leave till cold, then unmold. The whole work must be mounted symmetrically, being careful that each part is firmly attached and the piece perfectly secure. For vases of white or colored Booked sugar (No. 3616) trace outlines of the de- signs on marble (see Fig. 733), having sixteen, twenty-four or even thirty-two pieces for each vase. Take a stick six to eight inches higher than the intended vase and coat it with cooked sugar; roll it on the marble until it becomes exceedingly smooth, leave it until cold, then fasten it verti- cally on to the center of the socle; adapt the traced pieces perpendicularly around this stick at equal CO1STFJEOTIOXERY. 1043 distances apart. Prepare the flowers and leaves of pulled sugar (Figs. 735 to 741); mount them on wire stalks covered with sugar, and attach them solidly against the stick inside the top of the vase, spreading them open slightly to enlarge and to give a graceful effect to the blossoms. Decorate the base of the eocle with flowers and leaves of pulled sugar. Should the pieces be very large, then it will be found advisable to mount the bouquet separately and place it in the vase when in position on the dinner table; in this case instead of having the stick higher than the vase it must be at least six inches lower, to leave room for a receptacle intended to receive the flowers, the latter to be the same shape and size as the upper portion of the vase, and to be made of nougat (No. 3622), stand this inside the vase and place the flowers tastefully within. (3638), WHEELBARROW PILLED WITH FLOWERS ON A SOCLE (Brouette Garnie de Fleurs sur Socle), Have ready an oval socle made of brown nougat, the same as shown in Fig. 756; decorate it with agricultural implements and leaves of pulled sugar made by hand; the rope around the base of the socle is made with two strings twisted quickly and fastened to the border and around the under base; the top tray is made of green pistachio nougat (No. 3622). On top of the entire socle arrange a wheelbarrow made in four pieces of pink or any other color of pulled sugar, rolled out to three sixteenths of an inch in thickness, then cut out with patterns made beforehand and after the drawing; the shafts and rests are made of wire covered with pulled sugar and bent to the desired FIG. 756. shape. The wheel is of pulled sugar: first make a ring and place a round in the center; join the two together by small sticks of pulled sugar; between the shafts and the wheel pass a wire; fasten it on at each side with cooked sugar. The wheelbarrow is upheld and fastened with sugar cooked to "crack;" the flowers that fill the barrow and the border on top are made of pulled sugar to which a little chocolate has been added. This piece of confectionery may be made of gum paste (No. 3624), either white or any light color; the wheelbarrow can be filled, as well as the one above, with glazed fruits or fancy ices, such as potatoes, tomatoes, mushrooms, etc., and the bottom of the socle garnished around with fruits, or fruits in cases glazed with caramel, or with small light waffles dressed in a circle, one overlap- ping the other. (3639). WINDMILL (Moulin a Vent). This pyramid, though quite an old idea, is always sure to be well received. The great variety of its details, and the figures which can be added to it, representing scenes of country life, give it an attractive appearance which can hardly be obtained in architectural pyramids. Although its exe- cution offers no great difficulties, yet great care and exactitude must be taken in the cutting out of the different pieces of which it is composed, for there is the essential point for its successful com- pletion. The cut is a reduction of the original, and can thus serve as a basis for its execution, 1044 THE EPICUREAN. either in multiplying or diminishing its dimensions, according to the desired size of the pyramid. Cut out with great precision patterns of strong cardboard, and, if to be used for nougat, oil them well. The part of the pyramid representing the walls is made of white nougat (No. 3622) with chopped almonds, rolled on the marble to about one-quarter of an inch thick, and with the help of oiled patterns cut out rapidly the windows and the doors. The roof is of nougat covered with imi- tation of tiles made of almond paste (No. 125) colored a light chocolate or a light brick red, rolled to a sheet one-sixteenth of an inch thick. Out out with a tin circular cutter and then put on, begin- ning with the bottom layer, each layer successively overlapping the other. The large platform and the doors are of ordinary brown nougat (No. 3621), the railing of lightly colored chocolate sugar, and composed of pieces cut with a knife and stuck together with melted sugar. The windows are made of sugar boiled to three hundred and thirty degrees, very clear, rolled thin and placed in the interior. FIG. 757. The rustic beams are made of chocolate pulled sugar (No. 3618), the stairways of brown nougat and the wings of the mill are composed of four pieces of wire, covered and rolled in brown cooked sugar, and of white pulled sugar melted and rolled thin, arid cut out with scissors. The little sticks across the wings are made of lightly colored chocolate sugar and put on about one-eighth of an inch apart. The rock or base is twelve inches high, and is composed of two wood platforms, supported by a wood framework, around which bunches of crumpled paper ai'e put on, which is then covered with green nougat, rolled thin and garnished with herbs and plants imitated with green pulled sugar. This whole pyramid can also be made of clear sugar exclusively, boiled to three hundred and thirty-five degrees, very transparent, melted over and poured on a tracing of patterns on marble and filled in as described. Or, further yet, of gum paste (No. 3624) exclusively, in natural colors or white, taking great care, however, not to set up the pieces until each one is perfectly dry. The windows COISTFElOTIOlSTEItY. 1045 could then be imitated by thin sheets of mica or gelatine, and the base of gum paste covered with royal icing (No. 101). Or, the ambitious workman can imitate with gum paste, a miller, a bag on his shoulder, going up the stairway, or two peasants eating and drinking, or a peasant woman with children around her, and many other subjects of country life and customs. (3639a). THE PEOLIFIO TEEE (L'Arbre Prodigieux), In ovder to make a tree two feet in height cut the wires varying from four to fourteen inches in length. Prepare some nougat with chopped almonds (No. 3621), incorporating sufficient cocoa to color it brown; roll out enough of this to be able to cut out a piece a quarter of an inch thick, sixteen inches long and seven inches wide in the part intended for the base and slightly narrower for the top. Wrap this piece of nougat around a wooden support in imitation of the trunk of a tree and FIG. 758. leavi to cool; coat the wires with nougat proportionately thick according to their length, and thicker on the ends that are to be attached to the trunk; bend them as soon as covered to shape them into knotty and irregular boughs, and leave to cool. Color some white nougat (No. 3622) a pistachio green, roll it out on a marble to a quarter of an inch in thickness, and from it cut a round 'bottom sixteen inches in diameter, then attach it to a board of the same size. At two inches from the edge fasten the trunk of the tree on solidly and decorate it with the boughs, having the heaviest attached to the trunk, and the lighter ones attached to these. Melt some cooked sugar, mix in a little cooo?. and chopped almonds, and with a knife coat over the trunk and the branches to imitate the bark and the roots at the foot of the tree. Pull some dark green-colored sugar, a very little at a time, and with it form leaves as described in No. 3618; trim the branches with these, and also with cherries made of almond paste (No. 125) and glazed, or else substitute pears or little apples, or better still green almonds, but any imitated fruit can be used. Place a ladder against the tree, made of wire covered with chocolate-colored sugar, and on this stand a small image to represent a cupid stealing 1046 THE EPICUREAN. the fruit, and at one side another cupid receiving the picked fruit. Make these figures of gum paste (No. 3624). Make the boughs and bushes around the foot of the tree of pulled sugar (No. 3618), also the rope that surrounds it. These trees can be varied as regards both size and subject. One or more trees can be arranged on a single board without any figures or subjects. (3640). CANDYING, COLD AND HOT (Candi a, Froid et I Chaud), Cold. This manner of candying is specially adapted for bonbons. Put some lump sugar in a copper pan, pour over sufficient water to dissolve it, and as soon as this takes place set it on the fire to cook to thirty-five degrees; when the sugar has attained this degree take the pan from the fire and stand it in a basin or any other receptacle filled with cold water; cover the sugar with a round of paper, and leave stand till cold. Now pour it into the candy pans containing the pieces to be candied; put in a dry place in a moderate temperature and leave for twelve to eighteen hours; drain off the syrup and place the candied pieces on a grate to dry. Hot. This manner of candying is used specially for candying preserved fruits. Cook some syrup to thirty-six degrees; leave rest for one instant, then pour it into the candy pans, having the fruits already arranged therein; place the pan in a heater, having it moderately hot, and remove only after six or seven hours, or when the fruits are all coated. (3641), TO CAST IN STAEOH (Pour Couler & 1'Amidon). To cast in starch wooden boxes are required twenty inches long, fourteen inches wide and three inches deep. Fill these boxes with very dry starch to a quarter of an inch from the top; stir about with a small whip to have it light, then smooth neatly with a ruler; now imprint into it with small plaster molds fastened on to a second ruler at some distance apart, burying them in the starch until the ruler touches the edges of the box. Should these small molds have a channeled surface or deeply imprinted designs, then before lifting them out of the starch rap the ruler lightly on top to have any of the starch that may adhere fall away. Care must be taken to sift the starch FIG. 759. ~ from time to time to rid it of any lumps or grains of sugar that may have formed therein. To cast the sugar use a funnel in the center of which is a rod terminating in a ball that fits the outlet of the funnel accurately. This rod is moved up and down by means of a horizontal lever and a spring which are fastened to the handle of the funnel. CANDIES (Bonbons), (3642). BUENT ALMONDS (Pralines), Put a pound and a half of sugar and half of a vanilla bean in a pan, dissolve it with a little water and stand it on the fire to co^k to thirty-four degrees (syrup gauge), then add one pound of fine almonds; mix all together with a wooden spoon and continue to cook until the sugar reaches " crack" (No. 171), stirring the almonds steadily till the sugar granulates. Take the pan from the fire and pour both sugar and almonds into a coarse sieve to separate the almonds from the granu- lated sugar, return the almonds to the pan, stand it on the fire and stir constantly until the sugar covering the almonds melts away, adding from time to time a small handful of the granulated sugar. As soon as all the sugar is added and that surrounding the almonds is well dissolved, pour it immediately on to a slab, separating them from each other, and leave to cool. Put a heaping tablespoonful of dissolved gum arabic in a basin, dilute it with a little water and let it come to a boil; then add the burnt almonds and toss until entirely covered; pour at once on to a sieve and place in the heater to dry. (3643). CHOCOLATE OEEAM CARAMELS (Caramels & la Or&me au Ohocolat). Melt twelve ounces of chocolate in a copper pan with a pint and a half of good cream and half a pint of fruit syrup well flavored with vanilla, then add a pound and a half of sugar. Stand the pan on a hot fire and wren the liquid begins to boil stir it vigorously with a spatula until it CONFECTIONERY. 1047 reaches "large ball" (No. 171), then pour it on a slightly oiled marble to half an inch in thickness, securing the caramel within lightly oiled square iron rods laid in the shape of a square. This caramel takes a long while to cool; when cold remove the rulers, detach from the marble and cut it first into long bands half an inch wide, and these across in half-inch squares. As fast as the caramels are cut wrap each one in a piece of waxed paper. (3644). VANILLA CREAM CARAMELS, OE WITH TEA- OK COFFEE (Caramels a la Creme Vanillas au Th6 ou au Oaf8), Set a pound of sugar in a copper pan to melt with three-quarters of a pint of cream, adding a split vanilla bean; stand the pan on a brisk fire and stir steadily until cooked to " large ball " (No. 171), then pour it in a square formed on the marble with slightly oiled square iron rods, having it the same thickness as the chocolate caramels. When cold cut out and wrap in waxed papers, finishing them exactly the same as the chocolates. These caramels can be flavored with tea or coffee, proceeding as for the above, only using one pound of sugar, two gills of cream and a gill and a half of infused tea or coffee. (3645). CORDIAL CANDIES (Bonbons aux Liqueurs). These candies are cast in starch. First prepare the boxes of starch, impressed as explained in No. 3641; put two pounds of sugar in a copper basin, dissolve with three gills of water and stand it on the fire to cook the sugar to thirty-six degrees (syrup gauge); when the sugar attains this degree add a small cordial glassful of kirsch, maraschino or any other desired cordial, to bring the syrup back to thirty-two degrees, stirring it well. Now pour this syrup into a spring funnel (Fig. 759) and cast the candies in the starch impressions; put the filled box in the heater at a moderate temperature and leave for twelve hours. They should now have formed a sufficiently thick crust to allow them to be worked; remove carefully from the starch, brush one at a time with a very soft hair brush, and lay them at once on a grate to cool, then stand this grate on a candy pan and cover the candies with a cold thirty-two degree syrup; lay a piece of paper on top to keep the candies submerged. Put this candy pan in a mild temperature and leave for six hours. Then drain off the syrup, take out the candies to arrange them on a second grate and leave to dry. Instead of crystallizing these candies they can be iced with fondant (No. 58) flavored with cordial. (3646). DROPS (Pastilles). These are made by mixing powdered sugar from which the icing sugar has been removed by sifting through a very fine sieve, flavored either with aromatics or fruit juices, to the consistency of a paste. They are all prepared exactly alike; those composed of fruit should be a little more liquid and a little less heated than those with aromatically flavored waters. They should all be dropped on to bright tin plates. (3647). PEPPERMINT DROPS (Pastilles de Menthe). Mix seven ounces of the same sugar as above with about two ounces of water, flavored with a few drops of peppermint essence, to form into a paste; heat it the same as for the strawberry drops, only warming it rather more, and finish exactly the same. (3648). STRAWBERRY DROPS (Pastilles aux Praises). Place seven ounces of powdered sugar, prepared as (No. 3646), in a small copper pan having a spout, and reduce it to the consistency of a paste with about an ounce of filtered strawberry juice; color lightly with liquid carmine to give it a pink hue. Stand the pan on the fire and heat until the paste flows, stirring continuously with a small spatula; however, it must be of a consistency not to spread when dropped on the trays. To dress, hold the pan in the left hand, inclining the spout toward the tray, and in the right hand hold a small wire; with this cut the paste away from the spout as fast as it runs out, thus leaving it fall in small pieces to form into drops three-eighths of an inch in diameter and slightly apart from each other. Half an hour after they can be detached from the tray by bending it slightly and then shaking them; throw on a sieve to finish drying. (3649). FILBERT CANDIES (Bonbons d'Avelines en Conserve). Procure small plaster molds imitating hazel-nuts and fasten them to a ruler, then imprint them in starch. Peel six ounces of filberts and crush to form a very fine paste with a gill and a 1048 THE EPICUREAN. half of water. Cook a pound of sugar to " small crack " (No. 171), add the pounded nuts, stir well and cast it at once into the starch impressions; when these candies have sufficiently hardened in the starch to be able to be handled take them out, one by one, brush carefully and stand on a sieve to cool; they can afterward be dipped in cold crystallized syrup until completely coated with candy. (3650). CHOCOLATE FONDANTS (Pendants an ChocolatX Dissolve four ounces of chocolate with two gills of water; add half a stick of vanilla and a pound and a half of sugar; continue to cook until it reaches " small ball " (No. 171), then pour it on a marble slab and leave to cool; work to obtain a fondant, proceeding the same as for No. 58. Put a part of this in a copper pan to melt, adding a spoonful of vanilla syrup, then cast this in the starch. As soon as the candies are firm and cold take them out and brush over; melt the remainder of the fondant, softening it with vanilla syrup, and dip the candies in this. (3651). VANILLA FONDANTS (Fondants a la Vanille). Have some conical-shaped molds, with rounded tops, a quarter of an inch in diameter at their base and a quarter of an inch high; impress them into the starch. Put one pound of fondant (No. 58) in a sugar pan, add two tablespoonfuls of thirty-four degree syrup strongly flavored with vanilla and stand it on the fire to heat until the finger can yet be held in, then pour it into a spring funnel (Fig. 759) and run it through into the impressions in the starch; when the candies are cold and firm take them carefully from the starch, brush gently with a brush and stand them on a grate, then put away in a cold place. These can be dipped in fondant well flavored with vanilla. (3652). FONDANTS DIPPED IN STRAWBERRY OR RASPBERRY (Fondants Trends a la Fraise ou a la Framboise). Pr/c some fondant into a copper pan and heat well, dissolving it with a few spoonfuls of straw- berry or raspberry juice. As soon as hot cast it through a funnel into the starch, proceeding the same as for vanilla fondant (No. 3651). When firm and cold take them carefully from the starch and dip each one in a strawberry or raspberry fondant lightly tinted with a little carmine. (3653). CANDIES FOR MOTTOES (Bonbons pour Papillotes). Have some small conical-shaped plaster molds, the bottoms being detruncated and rounded; they should be an inch in diameter at the bottom and one inch high. Fasten these molds on a ruler slightly apart from each other, then with this ruler imprint the molds into the starch. Put two pounds of sugar in a copper sugar basin and dissolve ii; with a pint and a half of water; stand this on the fire to cook to " large ball " (No. 171), being careful to remove all the scum and keep the sides of the pan clean. When the sugar has reached the proper degree let it fall to "small ball" by adding a few spoonfuls of orange flower water, then remove the pan from the fire and with a wooden spoon rub the sugar against the sides to mass it. As soon as it begins to whiten stir it well and cast it into the starch impressions, using a spring funnel (Fig. 759) for this purpose; when the box is full bestrew the candies lightly with a handful of starch and put the box in a heater for two or three hours. After the candies are hard remove them from the starch and range them on grates or on a sieve to cool thoroughly, then brush over with a camel's hair or feather brush. To wrap up these candies spread open some variegated colored motto papers, in th^ center of each lay a printed motto folded in four and on this one of the candies, then fold the p^per all around toward the center and use a string attached to the table to enclose the candy (this is done by giving the string a turn around the motto and pulling on it, then the motto is released and will be found firmly twisted) and form a bouquet with the fringed ends of the paper. (3654). NORTHERN JELLY CANDIES (Bonbons du Nord a la Gel uu fli -*J rJ J D H 2. RING, COUVERTS. MENU. Huitres. POTAGES. evigne". HORS-D'CEUVRE CHAUD. Chartreuse a la Regence. POISSONS. sauce aux e"crevisses. Eperlans frits, RELEVE. Filet de boeuf a la Be"arnais< ENTREES. Leopold. casses Elisienne. S g> .g S ill r2 * 60 OS W 1 1 g o> S S 'So d CO c T3 03 O ', fU 2 3 S O OJ OOS -U a I B tj o> . S 2 _c '5 O bC 05 <1 P 99 a O b 01 s S-s ^ ^ & a s O> HH antine. CH /3 23 s i-, r oj 'o > fl 0> " '2 5 jj o S H 9 1 8 * g o 3 c w o J g ,2 K Q o3 _. 03 ^- MBRE, 1863. UVKETS, 30 PETITES TABLES. IRD JEROME. MEN CHAUD, Consomm6 I oulette. FROID, Saumon au beurre d Filets de sole a la Sb G 1 5 0) ^3 e c 'S H r^" 1 t> Chaudfroid de cotele' r2 3 "o > 03 03 'S 'ab < 03 C ^ .2 J3 -s g i S s* s d fp ft '1 3 a S 5 g S M ! 00 2 I o O) TJ j-j S Mayonnai S 03 'S o as a> 1 i 1 S o> i: 3 &3 & *i cc *- o | Jj T CO 1 T3 s CQ c5 03 aJ oS a 5 a CO 4} or (S o> 2 i? '> .2 2 12 v ^ (-1 "^03 " S oS O 8 ** H o ? _03 2 ho cs jg ^ 1 * '? cr .2 ^ os PH O> f i 1 1 s S 1 3 i | h .&p S s fa *? y . .2 H X 1 S u o o? o> c 'd G g 5 5 g S j- 2 U) S 'So co en C W R * C3 O O f ^ Q "ft w 2 3 ! || H 'S3 CS O co V W g o o> 'O j S o ^ V W ^03 nZ h V BS <5 P < ^S oS j3 In ^3 OS oo s *s a O "3 C S3 bJ ) I X lfc) O ee P <^ P^ PH ^ ^ 'S i S-t H co 3 O ^ "S PH PH 5 i P -S * 7^ S J4 ** cC M co -* ~^- k5 "?j ^3 ' a ^ O ^J ^^ CO * i ;^j c* .5 ^ ^j OD c8 ^ S * Qd ~ <8 IS "* a ' w i o _2 1 1 O H r/I "S o -t-> 2 O> (DC 1 11 3 1 S 1 8 'g ^ S | ^ - 1078 THE EPICUREAN. NOVEMBRE, 1864. DINER DE 26 COUVERTS. Offert a TAmiral Renaud de la Flotte Frangaise. MENU. Creme de volatile. Saumon a I'Impe'riale. Huitres. POTAGES. Consomme* Royale. HORS-D'(EUVRE. Croquettes a la Victoria. POISSONS. Soles farcies, sauce au champagne. RELEVE. Selle de chevreuil, sauce poivrade. ENTREES. Dindonneaux a la Toulouse. Caisses de becasses a la Diane. Pate de foies gras. Punch & la Rtgence. ROTS. Canvas back. Petits pois. Mayonnaise de homard. Filet de boaul. ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. Haricots verts. Choux flours. Tomates farcies. ENTREMETS SUCRES CHAUDS. Pouding Cabinet. ENTREMETS SUCRES FROIDS. Gelee mac^doine. Savarin Chantilly. Gel6e Madere. Charlotte russe. Blanc manger. Meringues, PIECES MONTEES. Le casque Eomain. Troph^e maritime. Bombe spongade, Napolitaine. Petits fours. Fruits. Cafe" Nougat Imperial. Chaumiere des Colombes. Glace Napolitaine. Bombe fleur d'oranger. Dessert. Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonic* DEJL,MONICO'S 1079 g 'I 1 2 O c3 o p 'tib ^3 ,03 02 ^ 05 . '03 "3 .2 73 05 rj o ^Q? 05 01 r- r^ 03 .SONNES. MENU. Bisque aux Lucines. Creme de volaille. Coquilles de crabes moux. r 3 PH -t O s 05 73 05 C t-l 3 ,8 3 OS a 3 ilet de bceuf macedoine a la ge "eg >> 05 73 03 3 05 3 - c 2 'Jo 05 03 P< pi 5 s ^ PH Chaudfroid de cailles. Salade a la Russe. de volaille. Salad< nanas. rois aux fraises. Creme Parisienne. Gelee au Marasquin. Gateau Angeliq Chariot Le casque Romain. Le coquerico. nville. B Nougat Parisienne en surprise Sultane de raisins et oranges. \ Avenue. ^ o GO K 0} H tt PH ^ 2 o3 02 PM 05 .03 'S Pi fl 03 X 3 eg * eg '-4-< 3 o i ts TH K3 H 03 XJ 1" TH ^ 1 s XB 1 s tS V 1 K s ^ ^ g g V K! W *~j s PH g J- 4- *T 1 s o 3 03 O2 '2 03 O3 S 03 S, rj S o be P4 05 O Fj "S 8 1 1-1 03 _a ^ jj jg "- 1 g x o m .2 03 MENU. Huitres. Consomme de gibier. quilles d'huitres au gratin. 05 'Jo 'So 05 73 03 03 05 O O PH p So 05 73 03 S O ,0 OS cS O Faisans Anglais truffes. Punch Regence. .2 | 3 S 2 * 1 of S * o s 1 05 ^ 73 g 05 Xs C l|| 8 S * 3 3 o eg 03 -^ 05 S 05 73 Celestine de homard. champagne. Gelee ai Charlotte Doria. e de nougat garni de fruits. Corne d'abondance. Corbeille jardiniere. '-M 03 PH 4^ t-t % 03 03 P o r^ 03 .*5 p O5 rj ss JJ ^ ^ O H 73 g S .2 OS eg ^ S * ^ O3 H ^ "S 03 5 O W |S J& PQ ,5 . .S X* t/5 ^3> C/") '~^- H 03 O 3 05 ti Kf T ( p pi-j CD C5 SH S p 3 a O M ** 03 ^ <" * 1 !** w ** PH "g PH c5 o 3 D 3 * SB ^ O2 O fci 1080 THE EPICUREAN. DINNER GIVEN BY SIR MORTON PETO, AT DELMONICO'S, OCTOBER 30, 1S65. MENU. Barsac. Huitres. POTAGES. Xeres F. S., 1815. Consomm6 Britannia. Pur6e & la Derby. HORS-D'CEUVRE. Cassolettes de foies-gras. Timbales a l'carlate. POISSONS. Steinberger Cabinet. Saumon & la Rothschild. Grenadins de bass, New York. RELEVES. Champagne Napoleon. Chapons truffs. Filet de boauf a la Durham. ENTREES. Chdteau Latour. Faisans & la Londonderry. Cotelettes d'agneau Primatice. Cromesquis de volaille a la puree de marrons. Aiguillettes de canards a la bigarade. Rissolettes & la Pompadour. ENTREES FROIDES. Cdtes Roties. Voliere de gibier. Ballotines d'anguilles en Bellevue. Chaudfroid de rouges-gorges & la Boh^mienne. Buisson de ris d'agneau Pascaline. Sorbet d la Sir Morton Peto. ROTIS. Clos-Vougeot. Selle de chevreuil, sauce au vin de Porto groseilles. B6casses bardees. ENTREMETS. Choux de Bruxelles. Haricots Verts. Artichauts farcis. Petits pois. SUCRES. Tokai Imperial. Pouding de poires a la Madison. Louisiannais a 1'ananas. Gele aux fruits. Pain d'abricot a la vanille. Moscovite fouett^e. Gel6e Indienne. Vacherin au marasquin. Cougloff aux amandes. Mazarin aux ptiches. Mousse a, 1'orange. Caisses jardiniere. Glaces assorties. Fruits et Desserts. PIECES MONTEES. Madere Faquart. Cascade Pyramidale. Corbeille arabesque. Ruines de Po6stum. Le Palmier. Trophe'e militaire. Corne d'abondance. Nougat 4 la Parisienne. Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonico. DKLNIONICO'S MKNUS. 1081 03 <^_ _;- bfi 41 ^ ' y^ a 35 3 1 1 'E "3 O OH 4 fi ee MENU. Clams mignons. POT AGE. Consomme^ Rachel. HORS-D'CEUVRE. Coquilles de crabes moux. POISSON. Saumon a la Dauphine. RELEVE. irtier d'agneau a I'Espagnole. ENTREES. acs de pigeonneaux a la Touloi stades de beVassines au fumet. de volaille puree de champigm ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. Eninards. As Punch d I'Anglaise. ROTS. Filets de Salade. REMETS DE DOUCEUR CHAUD. oiites aux ananas Richelieu. REMETS DE DOUCEUR FROIDS. 0) S -8 o Meringues Chantilly. GLACES. Bombe L'arbre Prodigieux. Dessert. 3 fl X 03 93 A S P VB .2 O^ Si o I" z f 1 g s % o 4 QQ ^ h r_71 ^ 1 *S W as W o co -2 .= S CO ^ E "+ 1 ^ y X | on O o 2 5"! 2 eS 3 I ^< w M >s a? 2 fc ! " pi 3 T 0} "S p j5 S O S t 2 s J- J elmonico. ^ 'aS Q d 0) 03 03 g 1 ^ S 2 cr 1 '? C V o X o "o '- g ' o3 ""^ *4-H 2 Q & 03 .S ^ M ^ 0* B2 -f^ CC "ti S 'H 03 .2 "c 3 cr 4) 42 S M 03 ^ 3 .a - S O2 03 d . -c o -. 03 LI "^ 02 N S vaj P RTS RMAN. MENU. Lucines. POTAGES. jyale. HORS-D CEUVRE. Cassolettes au salpico a -% "3 0) O 02 'S O a) 'E o3 ^ SfS'; g,^ > " '5 >W M s ^ 3 g s s s -s J 1 1 s ^ i . S . 2 g 3 -S "> -e s jj 45 3 s 02 02 c H ^ if . S 3 J2 0) 4, Punch d I'Andalouse Selle d'agneau, sauce me Pluviers au cresson. ENTREMETS SUCRES CHA Pouding des deux Caroli o> Cornets Chantilly. PIECES MONTEES. GLACES MOULllES. Dessert. AwnM. K H ,-,- > S3 PH .a .22 s 3 .a * o * - P^ ^ 0) . k 06 O ^ *e "S E 1 .5^ i 1 ^ (N S *S "8 > 3 ;-.-. "3 H o <^J <5 g i^ a^ "tj H $ irS " P O2 ^ C" 3 2 ^5 (2 'S 3 1 QJ a: c3 4< | &o < g g r 9 j^ K ^^ 03 y w 6 0) HJ j "S 1 S s o o fc, 1082 THE EPICUREAN. DINNER GIVEN BY THE CITIZENS OF NEW YORK TO HIS EXCELLENCY PRESIDENT JOHNSON, In honor of his visit to the city, Wednesday, August 29, 1866. Amontillado. Hochheimerberg. Champagne. Chat. Margaux, '48. Cf^s-Vougeot. Tokai Imperial. Mad'ere Faquart. MENU. POTAGES. Consomme Chatelaine. Bisque aux quenelles. HORS-D'CEUVRE. Timbales de gibier a la Venitienne. POISSONS. Saumon Livonienne. Paupiettes de kingfish, Villeroi. RELEVES. Selle d'agneau aux concombres. Filet de boeuf a la Pocahontas. ENTREES, Supreme de volaille Dauphine. Ballotines de pigeons Lucullus. Filets de canetons Tyrolienne. Cotelettes a la Marechale. Ris de veau Montgomery. Boudins a la Richelieu. Sorbet d la Dunderberg. ROTS. Bcassines Bardees. Ortolans farcis. ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. Petits pois a 1'Anglaise. Tomates farcies. Aubergines frites. Artichauts Barigoule ENTREMETS SUCRES. Peches a la New York. Abricots Siciliens. Macedoine de fruits. Bavarois aux fraises. Creme aux amandes. Beausejour au Malaga. Gateau soleil. Moscovites aux oranges. Gelee Californienne. Meringues Chantilly. Mille feuilles Pompadour. Biscuits glaces aux pistaches. FRUITS ET DESSERTS. PIECES MONTEES. Monument de Washington. Temple de la Liberte'. Casque Romain. Char de la Paix. Cassolette Sultane. Fontaine des Aigles. Trophee National. Colonne de 1' Union. Rotonde Egyptienne. Corne d'Abondance. fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Dclmonico. DE-LMONICO'S MKNTJS. 1083 au i .2 o Jy OJ .sa a f <*> 03 S 'i C) fl CC _t_j f- C3 03 j^ 'o .2 03 CO 03 3 1-8 ^S b w "o S o3 03 r-H epj * *0^ i * nj d be '03 M '3 rfS "a? o3 o3 9 (H PH CO O O3 03 a . 3 03 03 Q MENU. POTAGES. HORS-D'CEUVRE. O3 S CO POISSONS. ise. Kii RELEVE. ilet de bceuf, Rothschilc ENTREES. Poulets ambassadrice. Salmis de becasses. isses de filets de pigeon ROTS. rds (Mongrels d'Austra Cailles truffees. FROID. Filets ENTREMETS SUCRES. Timbale a la Madison. Pouding a la Reine. Glaces mouses. V 03 o ry. 03 CS co s ~*^ c O P 03 s ^03 co gj co i K . O3 O c3 PH > 03 03 O 'o "o "-*3 ." M 60 1 T3 *Q2 1 1 s & 1 s o o GO i i kf & J .9 2 K 5J CO M3 a a o uchees c m a ^cj c3 "^ PH 03 a 1 S a 03 S 03 CO g Street an H fi | o O o OS GO S 8 PH r 03 PH "g >~j PS V w 1. J, s -J. _03 "a " 02 o> O3 03 J2 -^ o 03 ft H 'So 03 & g 1 CO ^03 ^ S I 03 E O3 ^ ~ 'OS 1 1 > ! gM P "* -^ e 5 H a d A3 9 - PH O W g O l> O 53 o> a ^ to o .s a w a a S d OJ VES. o PH : o3 1 T3 h 03 S 'S "S O PH r-S I i < g a e de mout 2 8 * , co o .23 os o ' I'-s-S I s s ^ r-o 'S s s ROT. 03 .a O S 3 O bO J-S o S be P3 P S -' W QJ p -S PH MONTEE bC 5 S H* co H a) O3 to J2 C3 '3 P 55 o O co 8 S o eg > H O ft* s I ,- 5 * o pq ^8 a I I co o3 S3 03 O ee C S3 cd 03 ^3 S PS ' 3 02 O3 fj Ga Souv I s 13 w -i W rj CO t! <4-4 ^ (*>, s 03 a 03 S 2 * to a o r=3 "S .2 :=! to S3 a -2 1 . ' O O3 03 g s . 08 "S SS | 1 bb S W v 'S .2 ^ _: 03 x. S .9 oo o H 3 ^ H 3 . "o be "o *T ^^ [ -> 03 cr 1 CD "j-i -^ O ^O3 *"" r/^ ^ to Ji: V> S ^ "S '<- ~O3 l> RTS. MENU. Huitres. POTAGES. ritannia. HORS-D'(EUVRE. Boudins a la Richeli POISSON. la Chambord. Cro RELEVE. e de mouton a I'Anglaise (ge Petits pois. ENTREES. Chapons truffes a la PI Escalopes de filet de bceuf xelles. Punch a VImperia ROT. Cailles Diouees au crei ENTREMETS SUCRE! Beignets a la Medicis (( k Glaces asperges, sauce ma Bombe aux fruits PIECES MONTEES. itelier. Paniers sultane garnis de p Bonbons. Dessert. Fifth Avenue. CO 00 T 1 H *0} * 3 2 02 pq g> o i PEVRIER, NER DE 14 CC MR. A. T. STE' a | 1 o> a 1 I o H O - 3 fl <5 O 3 5 Devises. .rteenth Street S i 1086 THE EPICUREAN. DECEMBRE, 1868. DINER DE 280 COUVERTS. En I'Honneur du Professeur Morse. MENU. Huitres sur coquilles. POTAGES. Consomme Sevigne de perdreau. Puree d'asperges aux croutons souffles. HORS-D'CEUVRE. Brissotins au supreme. RELEVES. Saumon a la Franklyn. Pommes gastronome. Escalopes de bass aux 6perlans Dauphin. Filet de bceuf aux fonds d'artichauts macedoine. Dindonneaux a la moderne. ENTREES. Ris de veau a la Valencay. Salmis de grouses aux truffes. Paupiettes de poulet Ve'nitienue. ENTREES FROIDES. Pains de faisans Chantilly. Galantine de pigeons a la Koyale. Homard mayonnaise en Bellevue. Pate de gibier Parisienne. Sorbet Dalmatic. ROTS. Canvas-back. Cailles truffees. ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. Petits pois au beurre. Epinards veloute. Choux fleursgratin. Haricots verts sautes. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR CHAUD. Pommes a la Manhattan. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR FROIDS. Ananas a 1'Orientale. Lait d'amandes rubane. Savarin aux fraises. Charlotte russe, vanille ornee sucre file*. Bavarois au cacao. Sicilien glace au marasquin. Gateau a 1'angelique. Panier de meringues. Pieces monte'es. Glace excellent au cafe. Montelimar. Fruits. Petits fours. Compotes. Cafe. Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonico. MENU'S. 1087 JUIN, 1868. DINER DE 200 COUVERTS. EN L'HONNEUR DBS AMBASSADEURS CHINOIS. MENU. POTAGE. A la Brunoise. HORS-D'CEUVRE. Bouchees a la Keine. RELEVES. Saumon a la sauce Hollandaise. Bass raye" au gratin. Filet de bceuf a la jardiniere. Pommes de terre Duchesse. ENTREES. Poulet saute" a la Valenciennes. Epinards au veloute". Petits pois aux laitues. Ris de veau braises, sauce Madere. Haricots verts sautes. Sorbet Californienne. ROTS. Brants. Salade d'escarolle. ENTREMETS STORES. Pouding d'ananas au Sabayon. Gele"e au Madere. Bavarois aux fraises. Gateau Savarin. Mille feuilles. Glaces variees. Petits fours. Fruits. Compotes. PIECES MONTEES. Le Pavilion du Mandarin. Monument de Washington. L'Arrivee du Clipper de Hong Kong, 1'Enfant du Soleil. Dessert. Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonico. 3088 THE EPICURE AN. OCTOBRE, 1869. DINER DE 120 COUVERTS. LKS PlONNIERS DK LA CALIFOBNIE. MENU. Chdblis. Hultres. Amontillado. Consomme 1 Se'vigne'. Creme de gibier. Hochhetmer. Champagne. POTAGES. HORS-D'CEUVRE CHAUD. Brissotins au supreme. RELEVES. Bass a la Dieppoise. Pommes tartelettes. Filet de boeuf aux Champignons nouveaux. Bordeaux. ENTREES. Cotelettes de volaille, sauce Perigueux. Petits pois au beurre. Kis de veau a la Valencay. Epinards a 1'Espagnole. Galantine a la gelee. ENTREES FROIDES. Salade de homard. Jambon decore". Sorbet a la Dalmatie. Champagne. ROTS. Perdreaux. Becasses. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Timbale a la Madison (chaud). Gelee aux ananas. Corbeille de meringues Chantilly. Gateau Sicilien. Bavarois aux fraises. Charlotte Parisienne. L'Etat de 1'Or. Le Tunnel. Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. PIECES MONTEES. Glaces moule'es. Dessert. Le Viaduc. Le Trophee du Commerce. Detmonico DEJL,MOiNTICO'S MKNTJS. 1089 0) V co o3 V13 2 o5' (S c CO rj a ' 1 - j t ^ o5 s & o5 1 03 ' .0 1 M5 a 'c 3 rS a fj > a a sS Q *s 'S Or m ^3 co ^3 o 3 co S ^ e 0) g > CO CQ O^ 03 03 3 "^3 ' ^j CO X a o 8 ' 3 > 03 ? 3 & CO ^ ^ ,o3 QQ M i D ^ 03 3 Q 2 PH o o3 "O co CT 1 co 03 03 ' "03 C3 w a ^vCa S _j ^3 CO MENU, Huitres. POTAGES. HORS-D'CEUVR: a 5 3 03 CO C 1 RELEVES. neau aux lait ENTREES. .risienne. **" fO>) g co 15 no S e to ^ ' ,2 e 03 X 03 > ^, ^ *"^ PJ 3 o -: 03 . 03, ^ ~ 03 05 g DO 0? X! J3 PI 5 "C( ""^ .r ^tn ^- . 03 - O3 n-> rvi J3 -/ Q^ CO r pS &, 1869. .6 COUVERTS. '. MORTON. MENU. Huitres sur coquilles. POTAGES. name Sevigne. Bisqa HORS-D'CEUVRE CHAUD. Rissolettes a la Pompadour. RELEVES. ye aux eperlans Diplomate. Pomm< jlle de chevreuil Tyrolienne. ] ENTREES. Faisan a I'Aquitaine. Petits pois au beurre. Filets de poulet macedoine aux ti Champignons farcis. Quenelles de gibier, Londonde: Fonds d'artichauts au Supren Sorbet a VAme'ricaine. ROTS. ms truffle's. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Timbale a la Richelieu. d'orange Orientale. Bayaroi u Napolitain. Nougat Glaces excellent au cafe garni de ' Asperges, sauce Marasquin, Dessert. 9n, f67 Jfadwon Avenue. f \* '- -i o CO g 02 & -03 03 1 S co 03 'o <~o3 1 '^ H ^ O co 03 o C5 O a; 1090 THE EPICUREAN". OCTOBRE, 1870. DINER DE 50 COUVERTS. En I'Honneur du Gouverneur Hoffman et de Son Eta t Major. MENU. Huitres. POTAGES. Consomme Impe'riale. Tortue verte au Glair. HORS-D' . Nv/ i a C p ""3 CU .t O *^ c8 co

'ate de gibier en cro "H p CD O ^3 O o 'O ^^ 1 1 * s Gateau Portugais Glaces. Excellent au cafe Pieces Monties. "3 O " a /5 PH 1 "3 3 S Jj ^n o 1. 3 o P 'S ^= co C? co ^B a H > 2 -d eg E'** 43 eg "^ 8 - 3 ^ 08 00 CO "3 J ^ 3 1 * co' co Pommej rrons. a> 'S CO S ^ 3 P .IS co P5 Jo, - 'o S a ^ c co c3 cu p .2 P EJ-MO]srico's 1093 $_; d S 5 S K )RS-E'(EUVR &i 3Q s cS 03 .S '-3 POISSONS. RELEVES. S 1 X 3 *J te O 2 t*_ I 1S ^ i af s l 3a3 ^ H (^' te; * ^ C5 ^ ^ a PQ O ^ S 2 S E? -I-J p &C O) s-T i; s 'O r/3 a 03 'T c X s S 3 A ~ p iC MENU. S W 6 H'W a j > 3 w T3 "^ H 3 o C3 3 ^* o r- ; 2 C^ M to "o .2 a CO S 1 i *-" O &, rt I 1 a o 'S i 1 B S k H 8 M S a O 00 u t g 4f 1? . ri S S 1 > 1* S J 1 ^ & 1-1 ? M ^a 1 2 (i) S M O ^ S "o g o w i 03 .S 1 RELEV CO c ENTRE1 14 3 0) 03 i 1 i S % H H X. 03 00 O ft c .22 6C co * &Q X 03 t^ 'Hi- ^3 ;^J M (i PQ fi O M '/##, 1871. 90 COUVERTS. IRS ANNUAT. DINNE i i la Hollandaise. ! boeuf aux chai o> 3 O bX) o braisees, sauce . & 1 | .2 S $ . g 4 -2 S-g ^ ^ < T S ^ a * i! S c .e8 ^ * ^ 02 "s r 9 43 fe; m | .e6 w <1 /! a * i * ^J pj O S B ^ '/' 1 1 1 E, 3 02 'S O 2 'oS WOO 1 1 1096 THE EPICUREAN. MARS, 1873. DINER DE 12 Cou VERTS. Suivi D'UN SOUPER DE 80 PERSONNES. En 1'honneur du Gfeneral Grant. MENU. Huitres. POTAGES. Consomme* Pierre le Grand. Creme d'asperges. HORS-D'(EUVRE. Timbales a la Montglas. POISSON. Truites de riviere a la Joinville. Pommes gastronome. RELEVE. Selle d'agneau a la Chanceliere.. ENTREES. Filets de canvas-back a 1'Aquitaine. Petits pois. Grenades de volaille puree de marrons. Haricots verts. Aspics de foies gras en Belle vue. Ballotines de pigeons. Sorbet a V Americaine. ROT. Poulets de grain truffes. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR CHAUD. Peches a la Colbert. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR FROIDS. Gele"e aux fruits Sultane. Lait d'amandes. Pieces montees. Glaces moulees. Fruits. Dessert. SOUPER. CHAUD. Consomme" de volaille. Huitres bechamel aux truffes. Croquettes d'huitres Africaine. Timbales a l'e"carlate. Truites de rivieres ravigote. Selle d'agneau de lait jardiniere. Escalopes de volaille a la Talleyrand. Ecrevisses a la Bordelaise. FROID. Voliere de faisans Anglais. Mayonnaise de volaille. Salade de homard. Aspics de foies-gras. CHAUD. Becassines au cresson. Asperges nouvelles. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR CHAUDS ET DESSERTS. Gelee d'oranges. Bavarois ruban^. Gateau Imperial. Corbeille Chantilly. Glaces: Bacchus et le puits garni de Tortoni. Excellent au cafe. Petites glaces variees. Dessert. Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonico. DELMONICO'S MENUS. 1097 FEVRIER, 1873. DINER DE 75 COUVERTS (le diner des cygnes). MR. LUCKMEYER. MENU. POTAGES. Consomme Imperiale. Bisque aux crevettes. HORS-D'CEUVRE. MX, r? S 6 ^ <8 rn i s H POISSONS. Red snapper a la Ve"nitienne. Paupiettes d'eperlans, sauce des gourmets. RELEVE. Filet de bceuf a I'Egyptienne. ENTREES. Cotelettes de volaille a la Sevigne. Ailes de canvas-back, sauce bigarade. Asperges froides en branches, sauce vinaigrette. Sorbet de VErmitage en ecorce. ROTS. Chapons truffes. Selle de mouton. ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. Gardens a la moelle. Choux fleurs sauce creme. Petits pois au beurre. ENTREMETS SUCRES. Poires a la Richelieu. Pain de peches Marechale. Gelee aux ananas. Gaufres Chantilly. Getee aux fruits. Coupole a I'Anglaise. Gateaux a la Reine. Glace delicieux aux noisettes. Biscuits Tortoni. Petits fours. Caisses de fruits glaces. Devises, Victoria. Bonbon nieres garnies. Fruits. Bonbons surprise. Dessert. 1 g 1 s 1 e 8 1 1 e homard aux quenelles. o5 Pommes Dauphine. Epinards a I'Espagnole. 09 03 '5 T/D '03 'o co e PH Haricots verts sautes. tes d'asperges. ' i 3 a -0 M 1 'So 0) -2 < ^ C ROIDS. Charlotte Parisienne. Corbeilles de meringues. ] Delmonico. ] 'O S w p "o. * o 2 s 6n o5 m, 1873. 00 COUVERTS. Professeur Tyudall. MENU, Huitres. POTAGES. 6 Marie Stuart. Bisque HORS-D'CEUVRE. Brissotins au suprei POISSONS. Rockfish a la Regen frits, sauce tartare. RELEVES. ceuf a 1'Indienrie. ENTREES. a la Lyonnaise. de grouses, sauce bigarade. Cotelettes de ris de veau aux poi FROID. Galantine de dinde. As] Sorbet a la Dalmat ROTS. tete rouge, Salade d'escarolle ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR Plum ponding au sab; ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR fruits. ictoria. Glaces Napolitain Dessert. I and Fifth Avenue. "^ Oi - k^ a 03 ,0 o 03 '03 X > V si a a TH CD "0 1 cL 1 CC rig ^&3 52 fl D e O "3 JH ^3pj t . &H g a S< 5 o PH W O O < fi V V S - s 1098 THE EPICUREAN". A BORD DU "CITY OF PEKING" DE LA PACIFIC MAIL STEAMSHIP COMPANY. DEJEUNER GOUTER DINER SOUPER. AOUT, 1874. POUR 300 PERSONNES. DEJEUNER. (Eufs. Omelette aux fines herbes. (Eufs aii jambon. (Eufs Soubise. Poissons. Saumon grille, maitre-d'hotel. Filets de soles a la Horly. Entrees. Poulets frits, sauce tomate. Cotelettes d'agneau puree de pommes. Rognons sautes aux champignons. Tete de veau vinaigrette. Froid. Bosuf a la mode. Galantine a la gelee. Noix de veau piquees et glacees. GOUTER. Releve. Selle d'agneau rotie a 1'Anglaise. Entrees. Poulet saute aux pommes de terre et fonds d'artichauts. Froid. Sandwichs, jambon, langues, Longe de veau a la gelee. Dessert. Fromages, fruits, compotes, cafe, the. DINER. Potages. Consomme printanier. Tortue verte a 1'Anglaise. Hors-d'oeuvre. Bouchees de homard. Pousons. Bass raye a 1'Italienne. Salade de tomates. Maquereau Espagnol, sauce Colbert. Salade de concombres. Entrees. Ris de veau macedoine. Pigeonneaux aux petits pois. Poulets sautes aux truffes. Rots. Cotes de boeuf. Yorkshire pudding. Becasses. Chevreuil. Canards. Salade de laitue. Entremets. Haricots de Lima. Mais en feuilles. Petits pois au beuri-e. Peches Conde. Meringues Chantilly. Glace vanille. Dessert. Gaufres cigarettes. Devises. Bonbons. Fruits. Fromage. Compotes. Petits fours. Froid. Consomme en tasses. Filet de boeuf. SOUPER. Pluviers grilles. Salade de homard. Glaces Napolitaine. Crabes moux frits. Galantine aux truffes. Servi par Delmonico. DELMONICO'S MENUS. 1099 O 1 . 3 p *<^ C r^ e Cw T3 03 O 43 eg 03 CD 3 cr 1 tf B " 9 T3 a * B r MENU. Clovisses. POTAGES. e. Bis HORS-D'(EUVRE. Timbale Palermitaine. RELEVES. reau Espagnol, sauce Colbei d'agneau aux tomates fa ENTREES. es de poulet a 1'Orientale. a ec -*-> o> - 03 3 3 cS O> 05 .2 Sorbet a rAmericaine. ROTS. Becassines au cresson. gras. Salade NTREMETS DE LEGUMES. 03 P Asperges, sauce creme. ENTREMETS SUCRES. Croute aux ananas. G 1 s Chantilly. Desse 1 M CO fc 4S CT 1 -2 ^ 73 . H I ^ 1 H " 03 CC "^ 03 2 "ci 3 cS H 3 i i O jiS, . > a "* D x G? c 03 O3 .2 i o CD IjSfll a a 03 O f "5 rt 08 S S ^ S * S is ^ jSj ^_' so "^ OS K o s- .*; B < *2 O ^ <2 S V O w *r ^ fe g T 1 .8 S o5 03 1 03 _g O ."* 4 03 O cS CCj S <5 ^3 *l 1 t O a> ^ o s ^ J^ p 1 a> S (^ T? 03 c5 73 2 i o a "cS ^* o* a aj t e 03 O3 "-S CO o O 03 K MENU. Lucines (clovisses). POTAGES. nac. B: HORS-D'(EUVRE. Timbales a la Renaissance. RELEVES. mate. PI lie d'agneau aux tomates Rei .2 g ~ *W '"^ Z ;C bC O) 'C 03 4S a "S 03 a> ^ W -1-3 03 43 ii aS -g ^03 ee 'o ^ cS s ^ [ ^ 4S Artichauts a la Barigoule. Sorbet au rhum. ROT. Becassines au cresson. Q ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Croute aux ananas. es 43 O s Glace mousse aux bananes. Dessert. f oQ O ^ PH i^ 9 4S w 1 H 1 P f a 1 03 .2 1 > 1 ee S 1 00 | a 03 03 03 ^' o ed 1 y . *i 5 w bO *O % 3 *c ^ p.! a a ! . 3 " ,H ^ o <^ ei j^ *si O M PH O 1 H f* K 1100 XHE EPICUREAN. d 25 a ^ -2 OS j B ^ O) c3 H CD r i 53 fff 43 1 ^ S2 C3 ^ Ml {^ rf, eS M CD cfi .s . 1 .2 tf 1 CD O g '% PJ P a a VII o . c3 >> >RE, 1875. t COUVERTS. IT SANFORD. Milieu de table dormant de flet Musique. Huitres. POTAGES. isomme' Descazes. Go: HORS-D'ffiUVRE. Cassolettes a la Dumas. POISSONS. Sheepshead, sauce Hollandaise et G< Pommes de terre croquettes Eperlans desosses et frits, mayonnaise RELEVES. Selle de chevreuil a la Tyrolien Haricots verts sautes. ENTREES. Croustades d'escargots aux cervelles de Fonds d'artichauts supreme Estomacs de dindonneaux Ambass fc. O rz; ^ CO O *^ P4 ^ 00 . 2 5 1 o3 f-> >2 CH .2 ^ o 1 CD ROTS. Canvas back. Homin Cailles en casseroles. ENTREMETS SUCRES. Timbales a la Madison. ieux aux noisettes. eet and Fifth Avenue. is 2 ^ y ft! 6 .2 3j &^ P fS P4 ^ ^ w P S s ^ - fe; ,5 1 Q 1 e c5 1 O CO % p. CO CQ CD 'P 5 010 CD .{2 ? .1 M $ C . 2 a5 "8 CD d} MENU. Huitres POTAGES. ntanier. Bisqi HORS-D'ffiUVRE. Boudins a la Polonaise. RELEVES. Turban de saumon, sauce creme. Pommes gastronome. ENTREES. Ailes de poulet Montpensier. Petits pois. Cotelettes de pigeonneaux Signora. Haricots verts a la creme. isperges blanches, sauce Hollandaisi ^or6e# ananas au Marasquin. ROTS. ers. B^cas Salade de Komaine. Souffle's de Stilton a la Sam "Ward. noisettes garnies d'excellent au cafi Dessert. fth Avenue. B * "P M . & Q- 04 ts S e ** o * t& a m CO CD e *! CD d co B .22 ^ 42 5 o 6 o DEJLMONICO'S MENTIS. 1101 JUILLET, 1876. DINER DE 40 COTJVERTS. En rilouneur du Gouverneur Tilden. MENU. Lucines orang^es. POTAGES. Consomme" a la Talleyrand. Creme de pois verts, Saint Germain. HORS-D'CEUVRE. Timbales a la Kenaissance. RELEVES. Saumon a la Chambord. Pommes Duchesse. Selle d'agneau Salvandi. ENTREES. Poulets nouveaux Bagration. Petits pois a 1'Anglaise. Cotelettes de pigeonneaux Signora. Fonds d'artichauts sautes. Ris de veau grille's, sauce Colbert. Chicore'e a la creme. Sorbet Andalouse. Brasses. ROT. ENTREMETS SUCRE8. Croftte aux ananas a la Victoria. Salade de laitue. Gele"e aux fruits. Gateau Viennois. Coupole Chantilly. Gaufres de Carlsbad. Glace moul^e le faisan garni de biscuits Tortoni. Excellent au cafe. Petits fours. Bonbons. Devises. Fruits. Charles Lallouette, Chef. Fourteenth Street and Fifth Avenue. Delmonico. 1102 DECEMBRE, 1877. BUFFET POUR 100 PERSONNES. FURIM BALL. THE EPICUREAN. MENU. CHAUD. Bouillon. Croquettes de volaille. Bouchers de ris de veau. FROID. Galantine de dinde. Pate" de gibier aux truffes. Salade de legumes langues. Mayonnaise de volaille. Perdreaux et cailles a la gele"a Sandwichs assortis. Gtelee aux fruits. Bavarois aux peches. DESSERT. Gateau Mathilda Meringues Chantilly. Fruits. Bonbons. Glaces Napolitaine. Biscuits glac&s. Tutti-frutti. Mousse aux marrons. Pieces mont^es. Petit fours. Devises. Wuq. Laperruque, Chef. Madison Sqttare. jelmonneo DEX-MOISTICO'S MENUS. 1103 AVR1L, 1878. DINER DE 225 COUVERTS. En THonneur de Mr. Bayard Taylor, Ministre des fitats Unis & Berlin. Consomme 1 Washington. Tortue verte. MENU. Huitres. POTAGES. HORS-D'(EUVRE. Brissotins a la Richelieu. RELEVES. Saumon de Kennebeck, sauce crevettes. Pommes de terre Dauphine. Filet de boeuf au Madere. Tomates farcies. ENTREES. Eetomacsde dinde a rimperatrice. Petits pois a 1'Anglaise. Escalopes d'agneau a la Cheron. Haricots flageolets, maitre-d'hotel. Mignons de canards, sauce bigarade. Asperges en branches, sauce creme. Mais saute" au beurre. Chapons. Sorbet Young America. ROTS. Salade de laitue. ENTREMETS SUCRI3S. Pouding a la Massena. Aspic de fruits. Corbeille de meringues. Gateau noisettes. Glaces mignonne. Fruits. Petits fours. Pigeonneaux. Bonbons. Charlotte Russe. Pain de peches Chantilly. Gateau mille feuilles. Dame blanche. Devises. Euy. Laperruque, Chef. Madisoii Square. Delmonictj. 1104 THE EPICUREAN. FEVRIER, 1879. DINER DE 14 COTJVEKTS. MR. W. K. VANDKRBILT. MENU. Hultres. POTAGES. Consomme Rachel. Bisque d'e'crevisses. HORS-D'ffiUVRE. Timbales Napolitaines. RELEVES. Escalopes de bass, Henri IV. Pommes de terre surprise. Selle de mouton Salvandi. ENTREES. Caisses de filets de poulet Grammont. Choux de Bruxelles. Petits pois a 1'Anglaise. Saute de filets de grouses Tyrolienne. Celeri au jus. Terrapene a la Colombia. Sorbet Aya-Pana. ROTS. Canvas-back duck. Cailles truffles. Salade de laitue. ENTREMETS SUCRES. Pcuding a la Humboldt. Gele"e d'orange Orientale. Gaufres a la creme. Blanc manger- rubane". Charlotte Victoria. Claces fruits en surprise. Delicieux Imperiale. Dessert. Madison Square. Delmonico 1105 O I -2 o MENU Huitr POTAG JH 2 II e -x pa W S I Angla o> Ed _ v w .-7: PH ~ g ^ w P-l ^ PH Salad *w "c O M> D be OS 5 g W U3 O I 5 g s H 5 a oo O 2 TH Q g 03 1 S I I 1 ll cfi OP 1 "S O p E I P H *" O 1 C3 MENU i II S a S E o 73 1 o> 3 -2 03 ^i 3 03 O 0! 2 -0 T3 ci OJ 1 Lucines. POTAGES. HORS-D'CEUVRE g r5 o3 CO 03 3 s RELEVES. a Espagnol, sai ommes croquet & z c; 1 03 rz 'S w rS -ci GO "cS 1 ENTREES. "p ^ , 3 03 0* C?) 03 'O d CO O 0! ' ddlo A OT a Sorb rtola o pq S O " T3 c ro g ^ o -s '1 *"i 1 fe o 1 CO O 1 J 1 s- S ft. O PH PQ PH 53 | 1 S J, . 4. d 4S c s i Q *g .2 .Q CO CO c o CO C .22 co' j p* p CV> O3 CO o {3 C MENU. Hultres. POTAGES. Consomme Rachel. Puree a la Conde. HORS-D'CEUVRE. Brissotins au Supreme. RELEVES. s raye", sauce Hollands Eperlans en Dauphin, ommes de terre Duchess CO ft^' 03 ^ CO ^3 C u. B QJ "3 t O 3 r^ &) H S |.f f ft ^ ^ CD co PH geonneaux a 1'AllemancJ Tomates sautees. de veau puree de marr< CD 13 s Sj CD S is * -"S a g * co ENTREMETS SUCRES. 0? 03 CO 03 &JD 1 S s fcj O 3 CO * S O S a e c '5 it g E 3 % ^ PS 9 S CO B * ~% s* c PH a s 03 tSl! o ^ 03 Ed &i o -r t. . 2 a^ 03 O 11 5 1 ;i 1 1 1 ^ 1 r<^ S ^ ?? o o * s^ . 21 S B ^* k * s oo ^^* O s T 4 ^ Q a ,^ s K S " ^ cd S *8 8 J s aa W s S "^ < ^Ni < 3 ?S g t * o ^ ^^ s r2 cj Q o S fe 55 ^ ^ ^ o OH 6 05 1110 THE EPICUREAN NOVEMBRE, 1882. BUFFET POUR 40 PERSONNES. MR. CHARLES DANA. MENU. CHAUD. Consomme de volaille. Huitres bechamel. Croquettes panachees. Bouchees au financier. Rissolettes Pompadour. Huitres farcies. FROID. Darne de saumon a la Kusse. Filet de boeuf printaniere. Pate de gibier aux truffes. Ballotines de cailles en buisson. Chaudfroid de poularde a la gelee. Salade de homard. Mayonnaise de volaille. Sandwichs. Canapes. Rillettes. ENTREMETS SUCRES FROIDS. Gelee d'orange Orientale. Gaufres creme. Gateau Viennois. Creme bavaroise a 1'abricot. Charlotte Parisienne. Gateau noisettes. Napolitaine. Tutti-frutti. Devises. Bonbons. Pieces Monties. GLACES. Merveilleuse. Fruits. Cafe". Biscuit glace*. Toronchino. Petits fours. Dessert. Charles Dana, No. 19 East tfth Street. Servipar Delmonico. 1111 I K C eg C- 45 8 , c3 a g 2 45 a! 3 05 H frt 1 . "c | a} PH -5 T3 H d MENU Huitres. POTAGES. omme 1 Marie S > c c H HORS-D'CEUVI 'C o VU 03 05 *c8 1 RELEVES. I'Africaine. O S 1 rr ap mimes croqui ENTREES. 8.3 . -2 II O3 p3 03 C H *sd " S CO ^c fl 03* a 05 2n Y. < 1 w lo 03 *- BJ w " 11 0*1 L3 K ^ ^ s CO o * 2o a co w 3 i Ci 0) 73 5 i C X "rt 'S X O 02 J .2 /' K -* 03 83 Tab O P '3 i' >o ^ G oo *-* - S 4 < 3 $ B K X 08 o 09 H s u *O3 w ~*^ t p S i 5. ENTR \ C i -O s G O II ^1 03 3 05 c JS 5 P ^03 ! i 05 45 Jj? flj 03 '^ .22 JZ 03 **" 'aj O ,.; 03 ? 45 ._ 05 bi) ? 3 -2 -. "Tf, J 3 . 3 - .: BS "2J .1 w MENU. Huitres. TOTAGES. Consomm^ Andalo Creme d'artichau HORS-D'OSUVRE. Timbales Perigordi RELEVES. ;uillettes de bass Jc ammes de terre An )o?uf Bernard!. ENTREES. iles de volaille Prir Petits pois aux lait ipolitaine. eaubriand. Sorbet Maninioi 83 s 45 5 8 e 83 M) X 83 45 C FROID. te de foies-gras a If Salade de laitue EMETS DE DOUCEU Ponding Cambace GLACES. Pieces montees Petits fours. Cl 00 oo " K S ^ a > ^Ps 9) -c *? ' * 3 O 03 03 g A SB H $ H 1 1 & S E 05 "S * ^ "S cc K2 & ej '3 C 2 "S c >. "H in . S 8 t^-l .^ X ^ H S a] Q ^ V "s 1 c ^. g B 5 .-s "C w G 5 j^j Si ^< O *~ f 3 ^ 60 s 8 CQ "s 2? 1 u "c 5 s 05 O Ji, 03 1 a* TtiJS MARS, 1883. Menu d'un Diner Original de 14 Cou verts. MR. BENSON BUFFET RUSSE. Canapes de caviar. Olives farcies. Ce"leri. fiperlans. Marine's radis. Canape's d'anchois. Olives du Lueques. Saucisson de Lyon. Saucisson. Vermuth. Sherry et bitters. Absinthe. Johannisberg. Madcre. Chateau Yquem. Lacrima Christi. Chateau Larose. Champagne Pommery, Champagne Perrier Jouet Bourgogne Mousseux. Huitres. Bisque de Lucines (clams). Potage a 1'oseille aux croutons. Crabes d'huitres frits. Concombres marine's. Timbales de sheepshead a J'Ambassadrice. Hoinards grille's. Salade de tomates. Vol au vent d'aiiimelles d'agneau financiers. Terrapene de'sosse'e a la Newberg. Filet de boauf Brillat-Savarin. Croquettes de pommes de terre surprise. Casseroles de volaille au gourmet. Quenelles de pigeonneaux aux Topinambours. Cotelettes d'agneau a 1'Espagnole. Asperges nouvelles a 1'huile et a la sauce Alcide. Champignons nouveaux sur crofttes grille'es. Souffles au fromage. Sorbet, caf6 et kirsch en e'corce de fruits varies. Faisans Anglais rotis au cresson. Jambon .grille. Bananes frites. Salade laitue. Maches. Artichauts, sauce Ijavaroise Pouding de fruits Sabayon Madere Glace cygne aux roseaux. Moulin a vent sur soclo. Macedoine de fruits en bordure de Madeleine. Cafe". Liqueurs. at 2^ o . i as MENU Lucines. POTAGES. HORS-D 03UVI ouch6es finan POISSON. acre. RELEVES. 'ommej Duch ENTREES. ffes. mpignons nou 1 1 ROT. NTREMETS SU Bavarois vani Pieces monte cc H -1, ^ s J O O ffl a _ g S3 " & "C IN JH 03 s =3 X X a CO *O GO is cc S3 , , O S3 -2 i 1 11 " s s o3 QQ 3 _cu ^ i Q w -s 8L| S3 X "g 03 ""-. ,0 ^ % cc /i* "i 'S .' % ~Q .23 o o 5 *~ 1 TS. MENU. Huitres. POTAGES Bisqu* HORS-D'OSUVRE. Cassolettes a la Dumas. RELEVES. grilles. Conco Selle d'agneau a la Florentine. Croustades macedoine. ENTREES. to S 'C ^ a u 3 _rt o S JS -S cc c 'o3 ^ "bC -^ < | I .23 cc 03 4) ^ gp o> a T3 g, cc Jg CU "^ u C V 3 Sorbets Fantaisie Divers. ROTS. llardes truffees et pigeonneaux ba; is. Salade ENTREMETS SUCRE CHAUD. Poires a la Richelieu. ENTREMETS SUCRES PROIDS. laude Bavar Petits Pieces montees. GLACES F Dessert. Cafe". 6th Street. . g 3 cc g 2 8 II 1-H O S w 1 I O" *l Si CO ,-< .s .S = 53 w :3 II i GO ft, Kf 2 w 1 T3 O 3 a^ f ^ tt> s TS 03 3 OJ I? 9 ^ s jj 3 a; s3 -S i^ c B rS 'S. ^^ -*^* 03 I ^ H 1 a ^ K 1 aj CO ! 03 CC i < Napo o b " 6 * ! O >H W u C ^ ^ xa "5 c ,'A I 3 -O D to fl S O o> T3 "eu S 8 O 5C I X 3 W 03 o s U 03 P g CO ,3 co " H W a) S C H 'C * 1 fc o3 / s i co 'O "> O a 2 C .S 2 II & jj o " o o 1116 THK EPICUREAN, MAI, 1885. DINER DE 30 COUVERTS. MR. N. L. THIEBLIN (RIGOLO). MENU. Chablis. Amontillado, 1834. Scharzh ofbtrger A uslese. Rauzan. Lucines (clams). POTAGES. Consomme 1 Sevigne'. HOIIS-D'CEUVRE. Bressoles Chateaubriand. POISSO.VS. Saumon grille a la Colbert. Aiguillettes de kingfish Margueiy. RELEVES. Filet de boeuf a la Richelieu Moderne. Selle d'agneau de lait aux laitues braise"es. ENTREES. Pate" chaud a la financiere. Ris de veau ft la Theodora. Tortue verte a 1'Anglaige. Concombres. Pommes gastronome. Sorbet a la Montmorency. ROTS. Poulets reine truffe's a la Perigueux. Chambertin. B6cassines sur canapes au cresson. RELEVE, Souffles au fromage. FROID. Aspics de foies-gras histories aux truffes. Cliquot Doux. '' Homard remoulade a la gele. ENTREMETS DE LEGUMES. Artichauts a la Duxelle Asperges a 1'Allemande. ENTREMETS SUCRES. Creme frite a 1' Augusta (chaud). Charlotte de pommes aux abricots (chaud). Gaufres creme marasquin. Tartelettes aux cerises. PIECES MONTEES Fruits frais. Fraises Compotes. Fromage. Amandes salves. Bonbons Devises Fruits cristallise's. Marrons rotis. Liqueurs. Cafe" MM! if on Kyuare. Dermonico. E>EL,ivlONICO'S JVLENUS. 1117 8 MENU. H T3 W 2 i 0) OJ i o *> a >a d "w -d . 03 o> .-a 3 S3 (H ^3 .2 "o3 1 a CB Ol S '1 =5 a' a POTAGES. Aurelien. ORS-D'CEUVRE. e 'O> 72 03 If J 03 -2 "3 ,0 POISSONS. er, sauce Hollan RELEVES. ^ H & 03 H 03 - Bi .S d H a) D (T( "^ ^ (" J. r-1^ 3 W t 0) 13 w * O 3 "5 o iJ -^ o a o -S a v ^ S e* c J H 5 ~ ^ o ^> o * 'C o pq a H 03 ^ S 9 43 0) T3 d * 00 5 ^ s a o 2 =! M ._ o3 ^' a H fc j3 QJ sS > fc < S M oo X ^ S 3 *^ < ^ W ftTo 1 su J ^ (M O C c3 ^ ? K 5 w "2 Is* . H _u o O 0) fQ pr^ o ^. 3 o 5 a *! o3 a y "3 cc X H 3 S * S 03 w o g ^ .2 +J a) _4) J3 2 tJL- 2 T3 1 13 -w c & 3 ' a ^ S rtS '3 3 j3 1 o K C 1 1 03 2 bC 03 OS o3 "3 K" 0) -S CO .Si X _o 0) 03 -o CO 4) I J3 xo3 0) V "E 05 0) 22 -i o> 73 C 'S. ng co T3 02 D 1 5 o '3 .SP -u J5 S V o 'cL CO *3 O H B <; E H a 25 O w (4 03 O ^J K a H 3 1 g K Glaces de fantaisie, . o . o b Concombres. RELEVES. e chevreuil & I'Atha Haricots panache's. ENTREE. ,e ^ la Baltimore en Sorbet d V Andalouse ROT. Canvas back. m . 03 *2 . ^ cj O-i , I-H ^ 01 O 03 "B CH 4) ^s go o TREMETS DE DOUCE Poires a la Ferriere. Pieces montees. ~3 i !t ^ W ~&. g 1 > I S 2 *~s o t -i 1130 TliE EPICURKAJN NOVEMBRE, 1887. DINER DE 200 COUVERTS. ST. ANDREWS SOCIETY. Consomme 1 Deslignac. MENU. Hultres. POTAGES. HORS-D'OEUVRE. Timbales Reine. POISSON. Saumon, sauce Hollandaise vert-pre. RELEVES. Filet de boeuf aux champignons. ENTREES. Poularde a la Chevreuse. Caisse de ris de veau Italienne. Haggis a 1'Ecossaise. Sorbet Impiriale. Canards a tete rouge. ROT. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Pouding aux bananes. Tortue verte au Clan. Pommes a la Viennoise. Choux de Bruxelles. Petits pois au beurre. Haricots verts a TAnglaise. Salade de laitue. Gelee aux cerises. Fruits. Charlotte Russe. Olaces fantaisie vari6es. Pieces montees. Cafe. Petits fours. Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. Detmonico DE-LMONICO'S MKNUS. 1121 cB <0 C ^ s & 2 1 t> g 3 S p 0) 8 x P H 1 1 1 eg < S CO 01 45 O 'eg /? PH & co 12 CO CD i rt oo a a . -^ a ^ 2 CD cc s CJ o n> 1-1 L3 PQ i A oS S 'E ce s f3 12 03 o3 ^ r^ 02 1 S-i 03 *H > C" 1 -2 CO CO "fj a> B "o3 CO PH o a 'o3 H CO rt ? H CO* S ^ 03 O .2 ** a CD o! '3 -2 H > a g MENU. Lucines. POTAGES. HORS-D'(EUVRE. Varies. Timbales Lagardere. POISSON. uillettes de bass Rich Pommes Viennoise. RELEVES. 'agneau tardif aux fr: C61eri braise. ENTREES. au. roles de terrapene Ba 1 HI! * S 8 1 .s^-s^ ^ 5 c '= ^, (H 03 CO CO ^i 03 H 03 rO bO g B -g o X "S w * 25 S 1 1^ 3 Glaces fantaisie. Oaf& !fe S ^ D^ O5 fa 2 CD CO ^ to ^ J O T3 & O w CO n? 1 1 " S O 55 8 S 1 rli r 6 .** bb 1 o3 TO CO 03 g ^T^ CJ 03 03 c 2 "S S3 03 03 CO 03 1 1 & C co c<3 * . CO S- CJ "r S3 ^ f r2 W ,0 ' a ft 03 03 "* *^2 rrt ii CO CO 03 O a o PH 1 1- c & ^ -M -t-> + < ^ '-C '5 ^3 'S *> i PH p - 1 -j O H 03 M H ^ qp to 05 O CO S 'o ff a a" PH 03 o ^ a ft 03 j| CO S H ji^ S ^ s M . h MENU. Huitres. POTAGES. HORS-D'(EUVRE 03 PH 03 !Z '08 co co -S P- "03 a '03 1 1 (35 ] ^J p* bn ~ 3 .Sr J w &, CL w c PS e e fn ^ *^*j -S - . - -*o OJ S3 rO 03 K >^^ P CD c^ O3 O ^03 *^3 C3 Q r t O CO _^ S3 03 03 1) ^^ a ao?'^ D S2 C3 , ft 08 rto g !c n O s g g o S K^ M ^ jg ^) O P3 O ^ JJ VMBRE, 1888. E 14 COUVERTS. 3. A. SEWARD. somme Meternich. ^ PH Aiguillet combres. ie farcie aux marrons, Ris de veau ts pois Franaise. 80 J g co W * * ,/ > 4S ? 'S S ^ Q O ^ | $ CO | It 11 1 ft ^ co O ^03 . T3 ^ .- * .-s s 1 & & a o .s O P-- -4_J t . J"j Q 03 03 f< W s PM O PM <1 _| 1124 THE EPICUREAN. JANVIER, 1889. DINER DE 250 COUVERTS. Annual Dinner given by the Superintendent, Inspectors and Captains of the New York Police. MENU. POTAGES. Consomme Remusat. Bisque d'e'crevisses. HORS-D'CEUVRE. Timbales a la Perigordine. POISSON. Saumon, sauce Hollandaise vert-pre 1 . Pommes a la Rouennaise. RELEVES. Filet de bosuf aux champignons. Tomates au gratin. ENTREES. Dinde farcie aux matrons. Caisse de ris de veau Grammont. Petits pois a 1'Anglaise. Haricots panache's. Sorbet Royale. Canvas-back duck. ROTS. Salade de laitue. Gelee au Centerba. Fruits. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Pouding Schiller. Pieces montees. Glaces fantaisie. Cafe. Gauf res a la creme. Petits fours. Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. Delmonico. DELMONICO'S MENUS. 1125 I o O to eg o ei I HI W I I a o .B O 35" 1 eS O s I 1126 THE: EPICUREAN. JANVIER, 1890. DINER DE 200 COUVEETS. SECOND PANEL SHERIFF'S JURY. Consomme Bourdaloue. MENU. Huitres. POTAGES. HORS-D'CEUVRE. Timbales a la Keine. POISSON. Saumon sauce homard. Pommes de terre Duchesse. Creme d'artichauts. RELEVES. Filet de boeuf Perigueux. Choux de Bruxelles. ENTREES. Poulet braises a la Lyonnaise. Ris de veau sauce tomates Andalouse. Haricots flageolets sautes. Sorbet Dalmatie. Fruits. ROT. Canvas-back ducks. Salade de laitue. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Croutes aux poires. Pieces montees. Glaces fantaisie. Cafe. Petits fours. Hadison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. Delmonlca DELMOTsTICO'S MENTIS. JANVIER, 1890. DINER DE 220 COUVERTS. HOTEL MEN'S ASSOCIATION. 1127 fiperlans frits. MENU. POTAGES. Consomme St. Germain. Bisque d'Ecrevisses Dumont Durville. HORS-D'CEUVRE. Petites timbales a la Soubise. POISSONS. Aiguillettes d'halibut a la Duglere". RELEVES. Filet de boeuf a 1'Aquitaine. Petits pois Parisienne. ENTREES. Ailes de poulet a la Genin. Macedoine St. Cloud. Ris de veau puree de marrons. Aubergines frites. Pommes Viennoise. Fruits. Sorbet Marquise. ROT. Canards a tete rouge. FROID. Terrine de foies-gras de Strasbourg. Salade de laitue. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Croutes aux ananas. Pieces montees. Glaces fantaisie. Cafe. Petits fours. Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. Delmonico. THE EPICUREAN JANVIER, 1891. BUFFET ASSIS POUR 300 PERSONNEL THB " PATRIARCHS." MENU. CHAUD. Consomme". Huitres Viennoise. Croquettes de chapon. Bouchees aux crevettes. Terrapene a la Maryland. Cafe et the. FROID. Sandwichs. Filet de boeuf Francillon. Galantine de poulet a 1'Anglaise. Terrine de Nerac aux truffes. Aspic de foies-gras decore. Dinde en daube a i'Ancienne. Cailles piquees roties au cresscn. Salade de homard. Mayonnaise de volaille. Rillettes. Canapes. Glaces fantaisie. Monte"limar. Bonbons. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Gelee aux oranges. Brisselets a la Chantilly. Gateau Madeleine. Bavarois aux abricots. Pieces m on tees. Devises. Fruits. Dessert. Tutti-frutti. Biscuit Diplomate. Petits fours. Madison Square and Twenty-sixth Street. Delmonico. DELMONICO'S MEXUS. CD w i l& -S <*> O 3 Q CD ^ .P :| ^J M 3 .-S pi .2 " r O p i s f S P (D 3* .- M c3 +> o 1 o 1 CO .O fcj P '> >, C 7- CD O & 3 45 o '-s | w cs g P tj> <-> p g fit rf CD X -^ CD 2 s j.'4-l* 11 1*1 s 3 ! ri SB J i Is 1! I gl f 1 ^ W Si?JlSiS42l -cs s w 2 IB 11 "II ll ^ t cf.2 .& v2 73 % -g S g a 8 ^ 'S S 43 S g EH 1 ill *Oi ^^ CC 53 & H" g M 2 J2 tS S fi 3 e8 ^ g a " H (D &Q ib M ^ ^ ^> * 163 I w g | | * 1 co 3 . H :(. T-l pj -4J & is S g OS H J ^1 CD & 00 > S "a * g - o fe a, < "2 *- 3 s ^ a. S -B i ^ 05 73 ll- 1 1 1 O 1 MMk ^ ft 1 1 , B 1 p3 Ci .2 03 73' CD o i CO P a 03 ~ ' g CD f i . .2 Huitres. atnraosuoo 1 "o M 03 CD rl r5 f-l' CD a. I 03 '3 S .s 73 S 'S OB 'S -2 -4-S 5 CD CD 73 . OQ 03 (D <0 03 CD B 3 O3 ^CD 61) S i CD CD 'C CO CD 73 ,5 db CD a 3 t-i 45 eS CD CD 'CD r-K Gaufres creme o a s o !* 'S 4^> c3 Square and Twenty-sixth Street. 1134 THE EPICUREAN. MENU. Huitres g0t*0*5 Consomme, Souveraine Tortue verte a I'anglaise &QK& A'atitnvvz Timbales, PeVigourdine Bass rayee, Massena Pommes de terre, fondantep Filet de bceuf aux olives farcies Tomates, Tr6vise Chapon a 1'Amphitryon Petits pois, parisienne Terrapene a la Newberg SORBET TUL1PE Canvas-back Duck Caillea Terrine de foie-gras Salade de laitue Po mmes a la Conde Gelee aux oranges Gaufres, Chantilly Glaces fantaisies Fruits. Dessert Cafe Mardi. le 21 Novembre, 1893. Pieces months Petits fours DELMONICO'S at OomnuTU at tlit *t>u of ONE HUMORED AND TWENTY-FIFTH ANNUAL. BANQUET.. (iliiiiiiii!ifhiii!i ! M i i I i i i ! ! i i i I S 1 > 5 i I 1 i i i 1 I S i 1 1 i i 1 / l\ E== MEZSTUS. 1185 MAI, 1893. DfNER DE 14 COU VERTS. Columbus Centennial Diner en THonneur de 8. A. I. le Prince de Russie. MENU. BUFFET. Cnap6s d'anchois. Caviar. Olives. Thon marin& Tartelettes de homard. Lticines (clams). POTAGES. Consomme a la Souveraine, Creme d'asperges. HORS-D'CEUVRE CHAUD. Timbales au Prince Imperial. POISSON. Truites de riviere, sauce Hollandaise verl-pr& Pommes de terre fondantes. RELEVE. Selle d'agneau aux fritadelles. Tomates a la Keine. ENTREES. Ailes de poulet a la Lucullus. Petits pois a la Parisienne. Champignons sous cloche. Sorbet bouquetfere a la Russe. ROT. Pigeonneaux au cresson. FROID. Mousse de foies-gras en bordure. ENTREMETS DE DOUCEUR. Savarin aux ananas. Glace pouding Komanoff Fruits. Petits fours. Cafe. Ofert par Mr. F. S. Smith. Delnwnica. 1136 AVR1L, 1893. DINER DE 200 COUVERTS. ST. GEORGE SOCIETY. THE EPICUREAN. Consomme" Souveraine. MENU. Huitres. POTAGES. HORS-D's 194 Cherries, brandied 1050 canned 1050 stewed 1056 Chestnuts, stewed 1056 with cream , 912 with gravy 824 Chicken 584 breasts a la Chevreuse 584 a la Delisle broiled (Fig. 353) 584 a la Irving broiled and stuffed 585 broiled, with bacon, maitre-d'hotel. . . 585 broiled, with tarragon gravy or sauce. 585 cocotte (Fie. 354) 585 cutlets (see cutlets) 687 ecarlate a la Derenne (Fig. 478) 745 epigrammes a la Volnay 585 escalops, financiere. . . 691 fillets or breasts a la Beranger 586 fillets or breasts a la Bodisko 586 fillets or breasts a la Certosa 586 fillets or breasts a la Chiselhurst (Figs. 355, 356) 586 fillets or breasts a la Cussy (Fig. 357) 587 fillets or breasts a 1'ficarlate 587 fillets or breasts a I'Ecuyere cheva- let (Fig. 358) 587 fillets or breasts a la Gallier 746 fillets or breasts a la Harrison (Fig. 360) 588 fillets or breasts a 1'Imperatrice 587 fillets or breasts a la Lorenzo (Fig. 361) 588 fillets or breasts a la Lucullus (Fig. (362) 589 fillets or breasts a la Marceau (Fig. 363) 589 fillets or breasts a la Marechale 589 fillets or breasts a la Mirabeau 589 fillets or breasts a la Mirebel (Fig. 479) 745 fillets or breasts a la Patti (Fig. 364). 590 fillets or breasts a la Primatice 590 fillets or breasts a la Princiere (Fig. 365) 590 fillets or breasts a la Renaissance. . . . 746 fillets or breasts a la Sadi Carnot 591 fillets or breasts a la Toulouse 591 fillets or breasts a la Valengay (Fig. 366) 591 fillets or breasts a la Valerri (Figs. 367, 368) 591 fillets or breasts a la Villeroi (Fig. 369) 592 fillets or breasts au supreme (Fig. 370) 592 fillets or breasts, epicurean (Fig. 359). 588 fillets or breasts, Mexican style, in pa- pers 592 - fillets or breasts with cucumbers (Fig. 371).. 593 PAGE. Chicken fillets or wings a la Genin 588 fricassee 593 fricassee a la Bouchard 593 fricassee a la Chevaliere 593 fricassee a la Favorite 594 fricassee a la Lucius 594 fricassee a la Waleski 594 fricassee chaudfroid 746 fricassee with crustacean sauce 595 fricassee with curry 595 fried, marinade sauce 595 fried, Medicis 595 grenades a la Ritti 596 hams with Zampino 765 Jambalaia of 596 legs a la Saulniere bigarrures 596 legs, American style deviled 596 legs, as cutlets with olives 596 legs as ducklings 768 legs in papers 597 legs, puree of Jerusalem artichokes.. 597 pie, Australian style 713 pie a la Manhattan 712 pie, Rigolo 712 pie, to be cut up 778 pilau 597 roasted, a la Championne 597 roasted, a 1'Hoteliere 597 roasted in the saucepan 598 roasted, with jelly, cut up and gar- nished with tongue 747 roasted, with oyster sauce 598 roasted, with tomato Conde sauce stuffed 598 sauted, a la Bourguignonne 598 sauted, a la d'Antin 598 sauted, a la Diva 599 sauted, a la Dodds 599 sauted, a la Dumas 599 sauted, a la Finnoise. . . 599 sauted, a la Florentine 600 sauted, a la Madeleine 600 sauted, a la Marcel 600 sauted, a la Marengo 600 sauted, a la Maryland 600 sauted, a la Montesquieu (Fig. 372; . . 601 sauted, a la Nantaise 601 sauted, a la Parmentier 601 sauted, a la Portugaise 602 sauted, a la San ford 602 sauted, a la Sherman 747 sauted, a la Stanley 602 sauted, a la Tunisian 603 sauted. Hunter's style 603 sauted, Parisian style 603 sauted, Point du jour 603 sauted, Vienna style 604 sauted, with fine herbs, tomato gar- nishing 604 with half glaze (Figs. 373, 374 and 375) 604 spring, as an entree, roasted small. . 604 1148 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. Chicken, whole, a 1'Aquitaine braised... 605 whole, a la Leona boiled 605 whole, a la Stuyvesant poele 605 whole, English style boiled 605 whole, with noodles, macaroni, rav- ioles or mirraidons braised 605 whole, with rice braised 606 whole, with tarragon braised 606 whole, with new vegetables, small braised 606 Chicory timbales 825 with cream 825 Chocolate (Figs. 760, 761) 1059 iced 1027 Chop, to, parsley, truffles, onions, shallots mushrooms, tongue and coral. . . . 180 Chops (see mutton) 532 Chow-Chow 360 Cisco, Castillane sauce 435 Clams, little neck, Quahaug (Fig. 266) 401 on the half shell 359 pancakes and fritters 401 Philadelphia style 401 poulette 401 stuffed 401 long or soft 402 soft, fried, garnished with fried pars- ley 402 soft, Newburg .... 402 soft, on skewers or hatelets (Fig. 267). 402 Claret cup 1066 a la Willards 1066 Coat jelly molds, and to mold jellies (Fig. 39) 181 Cochineal red, coloring 182 Cocks'-combs, stuffed, Duxelle 373 Cocks' kidneys, Villeroi 373 Cocktails, Absinthe 1066 - brandy 1065 - Calisaya 1066 gin, Holland and Tom 1065 Jersey, iced 1066 Manhattan 1066 Martine 1066 Peruvian 1066 - Riding Club 1066 Vermuth 1065 CoCOanut, to prepare 181 Codfish (Fig. 288) 435 fresh, a la Duxelle baked. . . . , 435 fresh, broiled with bacon cr ham. . . . 436 fresh, Norwegian style 436 fresh, slices a la Hollandaise (Fig. 289, 290) 436 head, egg sauce 436 tongues with black butter or chopped sauce 436 salt, Lyonnese style 437 salt, Spanish style 436 salt, a la Villageoise baked 437 salt, brandade of 437 salt, cakes and balls 437 PAGE. Codfish, salt, Faraday crowns 437 salt, picked-up, with cream 438 salt, vol-au-vent 720 Coffee, how to make (Figs. 762, 763) 1059 - iced 1027 Turkish (Figs. 764, 765. 766) 1059 Cold dishes 723 Colombines of chicken livers with ham. . 373 of foies-gras 373 Colorings, vegetable; carmine and cochi- neal red 181 Compiegne with sabayon 878 Compotes (see stewed fruits) 1056 Conde cakes (see cakes) . 950 Confectionery 1029 (large pieces) 1036 baskets filled with candied fruits (Figs. 742, 743, 744) 1036 baskets filled with ice cream fruits. . . 1036 baskets, Perrette's (Fig. 745) 1036 baskets with cherries (Fig. 746) 1037 boat, bon voyage, served at a farewell dinner (Fig. 747) 1038 chariot filled with lady apples (Fig. 748) 1038 chariot of doves (Fig. 749) 1039 chariot of swans (Fig. 750) 1040 cornucopia (Horn of Plenty) (Fig. 751) 1040 Dosser a la Denivelle (Fig. 752) 1041 the prolific tree (Fig. 758) 1045 vases of pulled and drawn sugar (Figs. 753, 754) 1042 wheelbarrow filled with flowers on a socle (Fig. 756) . 1043 windmill (Fig. 757) 1043 Cooked paste for fanciful borders 202 Corn, boiled on the cob 825 croquettes 482 cut up 825 - fritters 482 pancakes 825 succotash 825 Cornets of orange cream 913 Cos lettuce a la Rudini stuffed 840 Court bouillon 182 with wine .... 182 Crabs (Fig. 268) 402 hard shell, baked on a dish 402 hard shell, in court bouillon 402 hard shell, stuffed, Carolina style. . . . 403 hard shell, stuffed and deviled 403 hard shell, stuffed with mushrooms. . 403 oyster, a la Newburg 403 oyster, a la Salamander 403 oyster, fried 403 soft shell, broiled, ravigote butter. . . 403 soft shell, fried 404 soft shell, sauted in butter 404 Crawfish or crayfish (Fig. 269) 404 a la Bateliere 404 a la Bordelaise ... 404 1149 PAGE. Crawfish a la Mariniere 404 a la Vinaigrette 359 au court bouillon 404 Maison d'Or 405 with butter 405 with cream 405 Cream a la Maintenon fried 878 almond 182 bain-marie molded 913 cake paste 202 English, with coffee 182 English, with vanilla, lemon or orange zest 182 Frangipane, with chocolate or mar- row 183 Frangipane, with vanilla 183 lobster (Fig. 480) 747 Malakoff 913 Mocha 183 of biscuit with kirsch 878 of chestnuts, with caramel sugar 879 of chicken 683 of partridge 683 of pheasant, Cliantilly 683 of rice with Angelica 913 Pamela, Bischoff sauce fried 879 p&stry with vanilla 183 pistachio or nut 183 Quillet 183 Spanish 913 St. Honore 183 tutti-frutti 914 whipped or Chantilly 184 with apples 879 with cherries 914 with lemon peel in pots 914 Cre"pine of brains 684 of chicken a la Turenne breasts (Fig. 418) 684 of lambs' trotters, Perigueux sauce. . . 683 of pigeons, poivrade sauce, with truffle essence 684 of pullet 684 of reedbirds 684 of venison and sausages 685 of young rabbits 685 Crescents of noodles with cherries 879 with preserves 950 Cromesquis of beef 375 of beef palates 374 of capon 374 of chicken 374 of clams, bechamel 375 of crabs 374 of crawfish 374 of duck 374 of fillets of striped bass or other fish. 374 of game, Stanislas 374 of lamb 375 of lobster a la Rumford 374 of mussels 375 of ovsters 375 PAGK. Cromesqnis of pullet fat 374 of scallops 375 of shrimps 374 of sweetbreads, Babanine 375 of tongue 375 Croquettes (Fig. 219) 375 of apples 572 of apples a la Trimalcion 879 of beef palates 375 of capon a la Royal 375 of chestnuts 880 of chicken 377 of chicken, exquisite 376 of chicken, Hungarian 376 of corn (sirloin of beef) 482 of crab, Parmentier 376 of crawfish, Victoria 376 of duckling a la Muser 376 of fat liver, Dauphine 377 of fish 877 - of frog 377 of game 377 of grouse with tomatoed soubise sauce 378 of Guinea fowl. 378 of ham 492 of hare (see rabbit a la Bien venue). . . 661 of horseradish 497 of lamb a la de Rivas 378 of lobster 376 of macaroni, Milanese 716 of oyster 377 of partridge with game fumet 378 of pheasant 379 of pike a la Romaine 378 of pullet in surprise 378 of pullet, Wright San ford 377 of rice with orange raspberry sauce. . 880 of rice with salpicon 865 of semolina, pistachio sauce 880 of shad roe 458 of shrimp 376 of sweetbreads 379 of sweet potatoes 842 of turkey 379 of woodcock with truffles (Fig. 220). . 379 CroilStades a la Castillane (Fig. 221) 379 a la Morgan 381 a la Parmentier 380 a la Perigueux 380 a la Piedmontese 381 barley bechamel 832 Carolina style 380 chicken livers with Madeira 685 Fontage a la Flavignan 382 Gnocquis a la Rivoli 380 lambs' sweetbreads small (Fig. 419) 685 noodles, Tagliarelli 870 Perretti 380 Polenta 381 reedbirds 686 talliarines ... 381 1150 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. } Croustades of thrushes 686 of Venice, meringued 880 with scrambled eggs and truffles 381 Croutons, to prepare, for soups, roasts, game, vegetables, eggs, etc. (Figs. 40, 41) 184 Crown a la Camper 914 a la Choiseul 914 Printaniere 914 Crustaceans 401 Crusts, cheese 359 Chester ,., 389 clams a la Schenk 381 D'Henin, Morton, Chamberlain or a la Genoise 381 foies-gras 382 golden 881 to prepare hollow, bread-crumb, tim- bale paste or puff paste (Figs. 42, 43, 44, 45) 184 pineapple, apricot sauce 881 with bananas a la Panama 881 with cherries or strawberries a la Michelet 881 with fruits a la Mirabeau (Fig. 575). 882 - with Madeira 882 with peaches or with pears 883 with pears a la Douglas 883 woodcock (Fig. 222) 382 Cucumbers, fried, breaded, English style 825 fried 825 fried, a la Villeroi 825 glazed 826 salad 811 salted, Russian style fresh 359 sliced, in fillets 359 stuffed 826 Cupola a la Madison 883 of codfish a la Biscayan 686 Currants, large, white, preserved 1053 Custard, cream of chicken or game 284 in a dish 915 or bain-marie cream ... 915 or bain-marie cream with caramel. .. . 915 or bain-marie cream with virgin coffee 915 Cutlets, beef a la Babanine tenderloin . . . 687 beef a la Bienville tenderloin 687 boar (wild pig), sauted 637 chicken a la Adolph Hardy (Fig. 420) 687 chicken a la Clarence 687 grouse or prairie hen a la Segard 687 hare a la Favorite 690 kingfish, Mayonnaise mousseline. . . . 688 lamb a la Bussy 548 lamb a la Catalane 549 lamb a la Charleroi 549 lamb a la Clemence 549 lamb a la Durand 549 lamb a la Gavardi ... 549 lamb a la Giralda 550 lamb a la Leverrier 550 ]amb a la Maintenon 550 FACE. Cutlets, lamb a la Maison d'Or 550 lamb a la minute, with mushrooms sauted 550 lamb a la Murillo 550 lamb a la Nubian 551 lauib a la Perigueux 551 lamb a la Pompadour 551 lamb a la Robinson 551 lamb a la Signora 551 lamb a la Talma , . 551 lamb a la Turonne 551 lamb a la Victor Hugo 552 lamb, breaded, sauted and broiled 552 lamb, Imperial 748 iamb, in crepinette 552 lamb, in papers (Fig. 347). . , , , 552 lamb, kernels in Bellevue 748 lamb, plain yearling (Fig. 346) 548 lamb, with aspic 748 lamb, with mayonnaise, kernels 748 lamb, with string beans 552 lamb, with tomatoed chaudfroid 749 lobster, a la Lowry , 749 lobster, a la Shelly . 688 lobster, with cream sauce 688 mutton a la Bouchere 533 mutton a la Macedoine 533 mutton a la Marechale 533 mutton a la Nelson (Fig. 339) 534 mutton a la Savary 534 mutton and chops, plain (Fig. 336). . . 532 mutton, breaded, English sauce 534 mutton, breaded, with puree of truf- fles or with puree of chestnuts. . . 534 mutton, Russian style, with horse- radish 534 mutton, with braised lettuce 534 mutton, with chicory 535 mutton, with cucumbers 535 mutton, with fried potatoes 535 mutton, with marinade 53H mutton, with truffles 535 pheasants a la Reginald 688 pheasants in chaudfroid (Fig. 481, 482). 749 pork (see pork) 569 quails, Girondin 657 squabs a 1'Albufera 688 squabs a la Jardiniere 688 squabs a la Lauriston 688 squabs a la Luynes 689 squabs a la Perigueux 688 squabs a la Provenejal 689 squabs a la Signora 689 squabs in papers 689 sweetbreads a la Talleyrand 690 sweetbreads, modern style 689 veal a 1' Anacreon 750 veal a la Chipolata 511 veal a la Georgina and plain 511 veal a la Seymour .. . . 511 veal a la Zingara or Singara. . . . . . 511 INDEX. 1151 PAGE. Cutlets, veal, half glaze 511 veal, maitre d'hotel (Fig. 325) 512 veal, Milanese 512 veal, Pogarski 690 veal, studded with truffles (Fig. 326). 512 veal, with fine herbs 512 veal, with chicory larded (Fig. 324). 511 venison, a la Buridan 666 venison, a la Cauchoise 666 venison, a la Financiere 666 venison, deviled 666 venison, tomato Parisian sauce , 666 venison, with chestnut puree 666 woodcock, Poinatowski (Fig. 488). . . . 750 woodcock, Sarah Bernhardt.. 751 young hare, a la Favorite 690 young rabbit, a la Previllot 690 Dampf noodles with creaui 883 Darioles, Duchess 950 with orange flower water 950 with vanilla 950 D'Artois cake, with apricot marmalade or almond cream 951 Deer, loin of, cherry sauce 665 Dish bottoms, foundations and supports . . 171 Doebirds, chaudfroid, with f umet 740 roasted and broiled 638 Dome of lobster, garnished with small cases 751 Dressing paste 202 Drinks, dessert 1066 iced (see ices) 1027 Drops (see candies) . 1047 peppermint 1047 strawberry 1047 Duck, a la Britannia stuffed 606 a la Matignon 607 a la Siebrecht 607 American style stuffed 607 mongrel roasted and stuffed 609 roasted 607 with cepes 607 with cherries 607 with olives braised 608 with sauerkraut 608 with turnips 608 giblets, housekeepers' style 608 paupiettes with risot 608 blackhead roasted or broiled 638 brant, with cauliflower Villeroi roasted 638 canvas- back, broiled 638 canvas-back, roasted, garnished with hominy or samp (Fig. 389) 638 canvas back, salmis 640 canvas back, breasts, bigarade sauce.. 640 canvas-back, breasts, with orange juice, port wine and currant sauce. 640 mallard, roasted and broiled 640 mallard, salmis of, with Madeira .... 641 mallard, with celery half-glaze roasted 640 PAGE. Duck, redhead, a la Bareda (Fig. 396). ... 641 redhead, roasted and broiled 641 redhead, with fried celery 641 Ruddy, a la Hamilton 642 Ruddy, roasted 642 teal, roasted (Fig. 397) 642 teal, breasts, a la Ponchartrain 642 teal, broiled 642 teal, salmis of, a la Harrison 643 Duckling al'Andalouse 609 a la Bordelaise sauted ... 609 a la Bourguignonne fried 609 a la Grainville larded 609 a la Lyonnaise 610 a la Rouennaise 610 galantine of, pear-shaped 754 minced 649 peasant style 611 salmis of 611 with bigarade sauce 611 with green mayonnaise and fine herbs broiled and roasted 611 with Jerusalem artichokes 611 with oranges 612 with Spanish olives 752 fillets a la Macedoine or green peas. . . 610 fillets a la Perigueux (Fig. 376) 610 Eclairs, coffee and chocolate cream 951 vanilla Chantilly 951 Edible snails (Fig. 270) 405 Bordelaise 406 Bourguignonne 406 Provengal 406 Provengal butter 406 Saintonge 406 to prepare 405 Eels a la Marechale (Fig. 291) 438 broiled or fried, tartar sauce 438 fried with butter and fine herbs 438 to skin 186 Egging and moistening 185 Egg 8 (Plate) 847 au miroir a la Jockey Club 847 au miroir a la Lully (Fig. 559) 847 au miroir a la Meyerbeer 848 au miroir a la Provengal 848 au miroir a la Tivolier 848 boiled (Fig. 560) 848 bustard, plover and seagull 359 cold (see garnishings) 760 fried, a la Eugene Andre (Fig. 562). . 850 fried, a la Montebello 850 fried a la Sole turned over 851 fried, Neapolitan style turned over. 851 fried, with brown butter 851 fried, with chopped parsley 851 fried, with ham and bacon 851 hard-boiled and Aurora 849 hard-boiled, a la Bennett 849 hard-boiled, a la Benoist 849 hard-boiled, a la Carolli with noodles 849 hard-boiled, a la Gibson 849 1152 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. Eggs, hard-boiled, a la Wasbburn 849 hard-boiled, croquettes (Fig. 561) 850 hard-boiled, New York style . . 850 hard-boiled, Russian style 850 molded a la Bedford in cocottes (Fig. 563) 851 molded a la Colbert in cases (Fig. 564) 851 molded a 1'echiquier in cases 852 molded a la Parisian, also called Tal- leyrand, Polignac, Polish, Soyer.. 852 molded with foies-gras incases 852 omelets (see omelets) 852 on a dish (Figs. 566, 567) 856 on a dish, Bercy 857 on a dish, Bienvenue 857 on a dish, Conde 857 on a dish, Creole style 857 on a dish, English style 857 on a dish, Fermiere 857 on a dish, Monaco 857 on a dish, Omer Pacha 857 on a dish, Plumerey 858 on a dish, Rossini 858 on a dish, Venetian style 858 on a dish, with bacon 858 on a dish, with cepes 858 on a dish, with chopped ham 858 on a dish, with tomatoes 858 poached, a la Boeldieu (Fig. 568) 858 poached, a la Benedick 858 poached, a la Bourguignonne baked 859 poached, a la matelote 859 poached, a la Mirabeau 859 poached, a la Villeroi 859 poached, a la Wright San ford 859 poached, with gravy 859 poached, with puree of chicken supreme 860 poached, with spinach 860 scrambled, a la Columbus (Fig. 569). 860 scrambled, a la Duxelle 860 scrambled, a In Jerome 861 scrambled, a la Martinez 861 scrambled, in a risot border with ducks' livers 861 scrambled, with anchovy croustades. . 860 scrambled, with fine herbs 861 scrambled, with gravy 861 scrambled, with lobster, garnished with Villeroi oysters 861 scrambled, with mushrooms 861 scrambled, with Perigord truffles. . . . 862 scrambled, with Piedmont truffles... 862 scrambled, with sweetbreads 862 scrambled, with Swiss and Parmesan cheese 862 scrambled, with tomato puree 862 scrambled, with tomatoes and chives. 862 soft, a la Chipolata (Fig. 570) 863 soft, for epicures 863 soft, with puree of sorrel 863 snow, or floating islands 915 PAGE. Eggs, snow, molded 916 stuffed 884 to beat the whites of 185 with cream, meringued 884 with coffee, cream meringued 884 Eggplant a la Duperret broiled 826 a la Morton in cases 826 a la Robertson 826 breaded 827 fried 827 stuffed and baked 826 Elementary Methods 169 Almonds and filberts, burnt 169 Almonds, Conde or filbert preparation. 169 Almond cream 182 Almond milk 169 Almond paste for fancy cakes 201 Almond paste with cooked sugar 201 Almond paste with egg-yolks 201 Almond paste with gum tragacanth. . 201 Almond paste with pistachios 201 Almonds, pistachios or filberts, to peel. 169 Almonds, to chop or shred 169 Almonds, to pound, crush or color. . . 169 Baba paste 201 Blanch rice, to , 170 Blanch vegetables, to 170 Bone poultry or game, to 170 Borders for dishes, of noodle, cooked paste, and metal (Figs. 1 to 6) ... 170 Borders of English paste or gum paste (Fig. 6a) 171 Bouchees, to prepare (Figs. 16, 17, 18). 173 Braize, to poeler, smother or sauter meats 173 Bread, to, with bread-crumbs, English style, flour, Milanese, crackers and deviled 174 Breasts of pork, salted and smoked, English bacon 174 Brine 174 Brioche paste 202 Butter, clarified and purified 175 Butter, cold, for buttering molds 175 Butter for buttering molds 175 Caramels, to prepare liquid 175 Carmine coloring 182 Carve fish, how to (Fig. 24) 176 Carve goose or duck, how to (Fig. 34). 179 Carve hot ham, how to (Fig. 31) 178 Carve leg of mutton, how to (Fig. 32). 178 Carve loin and kernel of veal, how to. 179 Carve partridges, how to (Figs. 25, 26, 27, 28) 177 Carve pheasants, how to 177 Carve pigeons, how to 179 Carve prairie chicken or grouse, how to 177 Carve pullet or capon, how to (Figs. 35, 36, 37) 179 Carve roast beef ribs, how to (Fig. 29). 177 Carve roast turkey, how to (Fig. 38). . 180 INDEX. 1155 PAGH. Elementary Methods Carve saddle of braized mutton, how to(Fig. 33) 179 Carve saddle of roasted mutton, lamb or venison, how to 179 Carve tenderloin of beef, how to (Fig 30) 178 Carve, to, on the table (Figs. 19, 20, 31,22) 176 Chopped parsley (see parsley bouquet). 201 * Chopped parsley, truffles, onions, shallots, mushrooms, tongue and coral 180 Coat jelly molds and mold jellies, to (Fig. 39) 181 Cochineal red , coloring 182 Cocoanut, to prepare 181 Colorings carmine and red cochineal. 182 Colors, vegetable 181 Cooked paste for fanciful borders. . . . 202 Court-bouillon, plain 182 Court-bouillon with wine. 182 Cream, almond 182 Cream cake paste 202 Cream, English, with coffee 182 Cream, English, with vanilla, lemon or orange zest 182 Cream, Frangipane, with chocolate or marrow 183 Cream, Frangipane, with vanilla 183 Cream, Mocha 183 Cream, pistachio or nut 183 Cream, pastry, with vanilla 183 Cream, Quillet 183 Cream, St. Honore 183 Cream, whipped or Chantilly 184 Croutons, to prepare, for soups, roasts, vegetables, eggs, game, etc. (Figs. 40, 41) 184 Crusts, to make plain puff paste (Fig. 45) 185 Crusts, to prepare hollow (Figs. 42, 43, 44, 44a) 184 Dish bottoms, foundations and sup- ports 171 Dressing paste 202 Eels, to skin 186 Egging and moistening 185 Eggs, to beat the whites of (Fig. 46). . 185 English paste for borders 203 Fancy frills for cutlets, chicken legs or wings (Figs. 14, 15) 173 Fancy frills for large pieces, leg of mutton or ham (Figs. 12, 13) 172 Fat for frying 185 Fat for socles and flowers 185 Favor frills. 173 Filbert paste with cooked sugar 201 Fish slice (Fig. 24) 177 Fish, to scale and clean 186 Flawn paste 203 Fondant . . 186 PASO. Elementary Methods Forcemeat, baking, for ordinary use. . 19i Forcemeat, bread stuffing, English and American style . , 187 Forcemeat, chicken, fish or game, with whipped cream and butter. . . 188 Forcemeat, chicken, or game, without panada 187 Forcemeat, chicken liver, fine baking 188 Forcemeat, chopped, for chicken gal- antines 188 Forcemeat, chopped, for country sau- sages with sage 189 Forcemeat, chopped, for game galan- tines 18ft Forcemeat, chopped, for game pie. . . 188 Forcemeat, chopped, for ordinary sau- sages 189 Forcemeat, chopped, with chestnuts and chestnuts and truffles cooked 189 Forcemeat, chopped, with truffles. . . . 189 Forcemeat, codfish, for stuffing fish. . 189 Forcemeat, cooked and raw game or chicken, for lining paper fases. . . 189 Forcemeat, cream chicken, bechamel and mushroom puree 190 Forcemeat, cream chicken or game. 190 Forcemeat, cream, of fish 190 Forcemeat, fish, baked 19G' Forcemeat, foies gras 190 Forcemeat, for borders, bottoms of dishes and surtouts of chicken or game with rice 190 Forcemeat for borders, bottoms of dishes and surtouts of foies-gras and chicken 190 Forcemeat, Godiveau of chicken. . . . 191 Forcemeat, Godiveau of pike 191 Forcemeat, Godiveau of rabbit or other game 191 Forcemeat, Godiveau of veal 191 Forcemeat, mousseline, chicken 191 Forcemeat, mousseline, game 192 Forcemeat, mousseline, salmon 192 Forcemeat, quenelle, chicken, with Soubise or tomato 192 Forcemeat, quenelle, fish 192 Forcemeat, quenelle, game 192 Forcemeat, quenelle, lamb 198 Forcemeat, ravioles of beef, chicken and veal for 193 Forcemeats, remarks on 186 Forcemeats, to arrange, prepare, make and rectify (Figs. 47, 48, 49) 186 Foundation paste, fine 203 Foundation paste, ordinary or short. . 203 Fried parsley (s>ee parsley bouquet).. 201 Frolle or sweet paste 203 Frying batters 203 Game, to bone 170 Gelatine, to prepare from calf's feet, 193 Gelatine, to prepare from pig's skin. . 194 1154 THE EPICUREAN. PAGK. Elementary Methods Gherkins 194 Grated horseradish and ribbons 194 Grated Parmesan and Swiss cheese.. . 194 Grease flowers, to make 186 Hams, for winter 175 Hams?, to salt 175 Hatelets for hot removes and entrees (skewers) (Fig. 11) 172 Icing, chocolate cooked 194 Icing, cocoa cooked 194 -~ Icing, royal, and flavored with zests.. 195 "-^ Icing, uncooked fruit juices 195 -- Icing, with syrup, for cakes flavored with vanilla, orange, lemon and fruit juices 195 Jelly, aspic, to prepare, clarify and fil- ter (Figs. 50, 51) 195 Jelly, calf's foot, with Madeira wine. 196 Jelly, meat, with gelatine 196 Jelly molds, to coat , 181 Jelly, sweet, with gelatine or fish isinglass 196 Lard 196 Lard meats, poultry and game, to (Figs. 56 to 59) 197 Lard, axunge 196 Lard, veal udder 197 Larding pork, to prepare 197 Larding, to cut fat pork for (Figs. 52 to 55) 197 Lemons, to cut in various manners (Figs. 60, 61) 198 Marinade, cooked 199 Marinade, raw 199 Meringues, Low to dress (Fig. 62). . . 199 Mincemeat 199 Mushrooms, to turn, channel and flute 199 Olives, to stone (Fig. 63) 200 Panada, cream Frangipane 200 Panada of flour and milk, bread-crumb and pate a chou 200 Panada, wheat and rice flour 200 Parsley bouquet in branches, fried or chopped 200 Paste, almond, for fancy cakes 201 Paste, almond, with cooked sugar . . . 201 Paste, almond, with egg-yolks 201 Paste, almond, with gum tragacanth. 201 Paste, almond, with pistachios 201 Paste, Baba 201 Paste, Brioche 202 Paste, cooked, for fanciful borders. . . 202 Paste, cream cake (Pate-a-chou) 202 Paste, dressing 202 Paste, English, for borders 203 Paste, filbert, with cooked sugar. . . . 201 Paste, fine 203 Paste, flawn 203 Paste, foundation 203 Paste, f rolle 203 Paste, frying batters 203 PAGE. Elementary Methods Paste, macaroon 204 Paste, marchpane, with orange-flower water 204 Paste, meringue, plain 204 Paste, Italian meringue 204 Paste, Milan 204 Paste, noodle, for borders 204 Paste, office 204 Paste, pie cold 204 Paste, pie hot 205 Paste, puff and half puff (Figs. 64, 65, 66) 205 Paste, Raviole 206 Paste, repere for fastening 204 Paste, Savarin 206 Paste, short 203 Paste, sweet. 203 Paste, tart 206 Paste, timbale 206 Patties, small puff (Figs. 67, 68, 69). . 206 Poeler meats, to 173 Poach quenelles, small timbales and mousselines, to 207 Press meat for juice, galantines, breasts sweetbreads, etc., to (Figs. 70, 71). 207 Quenelles, decorated, molded and pocket, to prepare (Figs. 72 to 79). 208 Quenelles, to mold with a spoon plain, filled or rolled in flour (Figs. 80 to 84) 209 Raise, pare and poach breasts of poul- try and eame, to 209 = Raisins and currants, to clean Smyr- na and Malaga 210 Ravioles (Fig. 85, 86, 87) 210 Reduce and strain sauces through a tammy, to (Figs. 88) 210 Rice for croustades and with cream. . . 211 Rissoles, to prepare (Fig. 89, 90). ... 211 Roots, to cut with a spoon or a vege- table cutter (Figs. 91, 92) 211 Roux, blond and brown 212 Rum, flavored with vanilla, spirit of strawberries, raspberries and apri- cots 212 Salpicon, how to prepare 213 Salt hams, to . . 175 Sauter meats, to 173 Scald, to 213 Sieve cloth of different size meshes (Figs. 93 to 98) 213 Smother meats, to 173 Spices, aromatics and seasonings for cooking purposes 213 Stearine, how to cast and color 214 Stock, white, for meats and vegetables 221 Strain puree (Figs 99, 99a, 99b) 215 Sugar of different colors and icing sugar 217 Sugar, to cook 216 Tart, band (Fig. 100) 217 IlSiDEX. 1155 PAGE. Elementary Methods Tart, empty, Ancient style (Fig. 101). 217 Thickenings for soups, sauces and stews 218 Timbale crusts, to line and bake 218 Triangle for dressing tongues, etc. (Fig. 10) 172 Truffles, to brush and peel 219 Truss, singe and dress poultry and game for entrees (Figs. 102, 103, 104) 219 Truss, singe and dress poultry and game for roasting (Figs. 105 to 111) 219 Veal udder 197 Vegetable colors 181 Vol au-vent crust (Fig. 112) 221 Vol-au-vent crust in two pieces (Figs. 113, 114) 221 White stock for meat and vegetables. 221 Winter hams, for 175 Endives or escaroles glazed 827 English paste for borders 203 Escalops of beef palates with puree of chestnuts (Fig. 422) 690 of beef with truffles tenderloin 690 of chicken, Financiere 691 of fat livers with risot, Perigueux sauce 691 of fat livers, a la Rulli 691 of fat livers Villeneuve ; 691 of lamb or veal a la Habirshaw 692 of pheasants with olives 692 of sweetbreads, a la Careme 692 of veal a 1'Arnold kernel 692 of young hare a la Roederer, garnished with quenelles 692 Escaroles, glazed 827 Fancy favor frills 173 frills for cutlets, chicken legs or wings (Figs. 14, 15) 173 frills for large pieces, leg of mutton or ham (Figs. 12, 13) 172 Fat for frying 185 for socles and flowers 185 livers a la Toulousiane whole (Fig. 423) 693 Fedelini, vermicellini au Cardinal 865 Figs, brandied 1050 jam 1053 marmalade 1053 Filbert paste 201 Filter fruit juices, to 916 Fiori di latte (see ices) 991 Fish slice (Figs. 24, 289, 290) 177, 436 to scale and clean 186 Flamri of apples 916 of cream 916 of semolina 916 Flavor sugar with zests of vanilla 916 syrups with zests 916 N FIawri. a la Manhattan 884 apple latticed 917 Flawn, apricot (Fig. 589, 590). au Lion d'Or cherry .... fruit gooseberry meringue nectarine paste peach .... pear and apple plum Floating Islands Flonnder a la Dieppoise a la Genlis a la Joinville a la Jules Janin a la Madeleine ProvenQal style Flowers of pulled sugar (Figs. 735 to 741). Foies-gras in border in cradle, to be cut in slices Fondant dipped in strawberry or raspberry. . . of chocolate of vanilla Fondne with Piedmontese truffles Fontage croustades a la Flavignan Forcemeat, baking for ordinary use chicken, fish or game, with whipped cream and butter chicken liver, fine baking chicken or game, without panada. . . . chopped, for chicken galantines chopped, for country sausages with sage chopped, for game galantines chopped, for game pie chopped, for ordinary sausages chopped, with chestnuts and chest- nuts and truffles cooked chopped, with truffles codfish, for stuffing fish cooked and raw game or chicken, for lining paper cases cream chicken, bechamel and mush- room puree. . . cream chicken or game cream, of fish fish, baked f oies-gras 1 for borders, bottoms of dishes and surtouts of chicken or game with rice for borders, bottoms of dishes and sur- touts of f oies-gras and chicken. . . . mousseline, chicken mousseline, game mousseline, salmon w , . quenelle, chicken, with soubise or tomato quenelle, fish , PAGE. 917 884 917 917 918 918 917 203 917 918 917 915 438 438 439 439 439 439 439 1032 752 752 186 1048 1048 1048 865 382 191 188 188 187 188 189 188 188 189 189 190 190 190 190 190 190 190 191 192 192 192 192 1158 THE EIPICUHEAISr. PAGE. Forcemeat, quenelle, game 192 quenelle, lamb 193 ravioles of beef, chicken and veal, for. 193 remarks on 186 to prepare, make and rectify (Figs. 47, 48, 49) 186 Foundation paste, fine 203 ordinary or short 203 Freeze champagne, how to (Figs. 768, 769) 1065 Fritters, alliance 885 anchovy 368 apple glazed and unglazed 885 apple, quartered 886 apple with prunelle or with kirsch. . . 885 apricot or peach with maraschino 885 brioche and cream with sabayon 886 celeriac 886 cherry, fresh or brandied 886 corn (see sirloin of beef) 482 cream of rice 886 Montagnard 885 Mundane 887 orange a la Talleyrand 887 pear 886 Singapore 887 souffled a la Medicis 887 souffled with lemon peel 888 souffled with roasted hazel-nuts 888 strawberry with macaroons, garnished with glazed strawberry fritters. . . 888 Triumvirate, Roman 888 Frogs (Fig. 271) 407 Frogs' legs a la d'Antin 407 a la Osborn 407 a la poulette with mushrooms 407 deviled 407 fried a la Orly 407 fried, with cream sauce 407 Royer 407 Frolle or sweet paste 203 Frostflsh or whiting, Cherbourg style. . . . 440 or whiting, baked 440 or whiting, fried 440 Fruits a la Creole (Fig. 576) 889 as side dishes 361 fresh and dry 1058 juices 1052 preserved, candied and crystallized. . . 1054 Frying batters 203 Galantine of chicken (Fig. 484) 752 of chicken a la d'Orleans (Fig. 486). . 753 of duckling, pear-shaped 754 of eel, decorated 754 of gosling, melon- shaped 755 of Guinea fowls a la Lytton 755 of partridges a la Clementine (Fig. 487) 755 of partridges and sliced in Bellevue. . 756 of partridges, Elizabeth 756 of pheasant a la Lorenzo 757 of pheasants, cut up (Fig. 488) 757 PAGE. Galantine of pheasant, Voliere a la Casi- mir Perier (Fig. 451) 728 of pheasant, Voliere a la Waddington 729 of pigeons 758 of pullet or capon a la Mozart (Fig. 489) 758 of suckling pig 758 of turkey a la Berger (boned turkey) (Fig 490) '.. 75S Galettes puffed and half puffed 952 Game 637 to bone , 170 Garnishings (cold) artichoke bottoms filled with macedoine 759 artichoke bottoms, imperial 759 eggs a la Develle 760 eggs a la Jardiniere 760 eggs a la Juliette 760 eggs a la Justine 760 eggs a la Rouennaise 760 eggs, barrel-shaped 761 eggs, basket shape (Fig. 491) 761 eggs in chaudfroid 761 eggs halved (Fig. 492) 761 eggs, Moscovite. . . 761 eggs, Polish style 761 eggs quartered, -decorated (Fig. 493). . 762 eggs stuffed with salpicon 762 eggs vase-shaped (Fig. 494) 762 eggs whole yolks (Fig. 495) 762 for cold desserts 918 mushrooms glazed with chaudfroid stuffed (Fig. 496) 762 olives, Spanish stuffed (Fig. 497). ... 762 oysters in croustades , 762 oysters with jelly . . ., 763 Garnishings (hot) 331 admiral 331 a la Reine 331 Andalouse 331 Aquitaine 331 barley a la Reine . 331 beef tongue, Andalusian tomato sauce 331 bouchees of puree of pheasants 332 Bourgeoise 332 Bretigny 332 Brochettes, Parma 332 Brussels 332 calves' brains, fried 332 Cardinal 333 carrots and peas (sirloin of beef) 483 cepes or mushrooms a la Duxelle stuffed 333 cepes or mushrooms, minced with be- chamel 333 Provengal 333 Chambord 333 cheese crusts and Chester cheese. . . . 333 chestnuts with gravy 334 Chevreuse 334 chicken minion fillets. . 334 INDEX. 1157 PAGE. (Sarnishings (hot), Chipolata 3S4 clioux with cheese 334 cocks'-combs a la Colbert 335 Connetable 335 crawfish 335 Demidoff 335 Dolphettes of chicken 335 Dolphettes of tenderloin of beef 336 Ducness 336 eggs with cheese 333 Fermiere 336 Financiere for removes and entrees. . . 336 Flemish 336 French 336 fritadelles of roast beef 337 fritadelles of veal 337 Godard 337 gooseberry 447 Qriboulettes 337 Gri mod 337 Henrion 337 Imperial 338 Jardiniere 338 livers a la Vincelas 338 livers, chicken, in cases or croustades 338 Lorenzo 588 macedoine 338 marrow and chives canapes 339 marrow fritters 839 marrow fritters with truffles 339 matelote 339 matelote Bourguignotte. ... 339 matelote mariniere. 339 matelote Normande 339 milt 340 mirmidons with parmesan 340 inoril and girolle 340 mousserons. Princess sauce 340 mushrooms a la Delsart 341 mussels a la Villeroi 342 mussels Bordelaise 341 noisettes of veal and lambs' fries; fleu- rette sauce 341 olives, plain or stuffed 341 oronges a la Livournaise 341 oyster a la Tykopf 842 oysters a la Villeroi 342 oysters for shells for patties with mushrooms 342 palate of beef a la Mancelle, in cases. 342 Polpettes 342 prawns, crawfish, crabs or lobsters with raw fine herbs 342 Provengal 342 puree of artichoke bottoms and Jeru- salem artichokes 343 . puree of asparagus 343 pure"e of Bretonne beans 343 pure*e of Brussels sprouts 343 puree of cabbage, Milan or Savoy. . . . 343 puree of carrots 343 puree of cauliflower or sea-kale 344 PAGK Garnishing (hot), puree of celery, celery knobs and cardoons 844 puree of chestnuts 844 puree of chicken 344 puree of cucumbers 344 puree of flageolets 345 puree of game 345 puree of garlic 345 puree of Kohl-rabies 345 puree of lentils with cream 345 puree of lettuce 345 puree of lima or broad beans 345 puree of lobster 345 puree of mushrooms and morils, culti- vated and wild 346 puree of peas split 346 puree of potatoes 346 puree of pumpkin. . 347 puree of sorrel 347 puree of spinach or chicory 347 puree of sweet potatoes 346 puree of tomatoes 347 puree of truffles and truffles with rice. 347 puree of turnips 347 puree of white onions, soubise or brown 346 puree, soubise 346 quenelles of cheese 348 quenelles of chicken or game, molded in a spoon 348 quenelles of fish, molded and pocket chicken quenelles 348 quenelles, godiveau of veal, pike, chicken or game 348 Ramisolles 348 rice, Indian style, and with butter. . . . 348 Richelieu, ancient and modern 349 risot, Piedmontese , 349 Rothschild and cocks'-kidneys, Vil- leroi 349 salpicon, Columbian. 350 salpicon, fat livers 350 salpicon, Flavignan 350 salpicon garnishings 349 salpicon, Hunter's...., 350 salpicon, lobster, shrimp or crawfish with mushrooms or truffles 350 salpicon, Montglas 350 salpicon, Palermitaine 350 salpicon, Previllot 350 salpicon, Regence, fat or lean 350 salpicon, Royal 351 salpicon, Turbigo 351 salpicon, turtle 351 sausage, for Chipolata, Lubeck or Strasburg smoked 351 scallop shells for releves 351 Spanish, sweet peppers sauted 351 spinal marrow 353 straws cheese . 352 Swiss cheese souffle small 352 tartlets a la Partnentier.. . 352 1158 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. 4 Garnish ings (hot), tartlets of noques with parmesan 352 tan'lets, Polenta 353 tartlets, semolino 353 tartlets, spinach 353 tartlets with cream and parmesan . . . 353 Toulouse 353 truffle 353 turtle, and for lean 354 wings of turkey or pullet a la Villeroi. 354 Yorkshire pudding 354 Gastrite 445 Gelatine, to prepare from calf's feet 193 to prepare from pig's skin 194 Genoese cake (see cakes) 935 light 952 with cream meringued 952 Gherkins (Fig. 206) 359 to prepare 194 Gnocquis 865 Roman style 865 timbale a la Choiseul 870 Godiveau of chicken 191 of pike 191 of rabbit or other game 191 of veal 191 Golden buck, Welsh rarebit, a la Cutting or Yorkshire 389 Goose a la Cbipolata 612 a la Royer 612 a la Tbieblin roasted , 612 breast, smoked 366 German style roasted 613 giblets with turnips 613 mongrel 614 stuffed with chestnuts (Fig. 377) 613 with sausages and chestnuts roasted. 613 Gooseberries with cream 918 Gooseberry cakes and tarts 952 Gosling a la Soyer 613 roast 614 sauted with tomatoes, Robert sauce. . 614 stewed with turnips 614 Gramolates or granites (see iced drinks). . 1027 Grape fruits a la Madison (see iced drinks) 1027 Grease flowers, to make 186 Green almonds, imitation of 1033 Greengages, brandied 1050 preserved . .. 1053 Green peas a la Fleurette (mangetout). . 827 English style 827 French style 827 French style, with sugar 827 housekeeper's style 827 Parisian style small 828 puree 827 with braised lettuces 828 with shredded lettuces 828 Grenades with cberries 889 Grouper a la Franklyn 440 Grouse (Fig. 394) 639 prairie bens or ptarmigans broiled... 643 PAQB. Grouse or prairie hen cutlets a la Segard.. 687 or prairie hens roasted with gravy, fried bread crumbs or apple sauce 643 or prairie hens a la Tzarina breasts (Fig. 398) 643 Gudgeons or white bait fried in butter. . . . 440 Guinea fowl (Fig. 378) 615 larded and decorated with their own feathers roasted 615 fillets a la Gaillardet 615 with sauerkraut 615 Gum paste 1034 Gurnet, marinated 367 Haddock, ancient style 440 Finnan baddies, baked with cream. . . 441 Finnan baddies, broiled maitre-d'hotel 441 Holland style 441 Halibut, Admiral (Fig. 292) 441 a la Coligny 441 a la Richmond 442 Kadgiori 442 with fine herbs a la Reynal 442 chicken, baked, and with parmesan. . 442 chicken, with carrot sauce 442 Ham a la Benedict roasted 574 a la Gatti, decorated (Fig. 498) 763 a la Leonard boiled , . .... 574 for winter , , . . 175 glazed with sugar 763 kernel a la Biarritz 576 pie 780 roasted on the spit, Madeira sauce, or marinated and roasted, white wine sauce 574 to salt 175 truffled a la Florian (Fig. 499) 764 Westphalian, boiled and raw (Fig. 207) 360 with carrots, stuffed tomatoes or mushrooms braized and glazed . . 575 with Jardiniere roasted 574 with jelly, English (Fig. 500) 764 with spinach boiled 575 with stringed eggs Virginia ham. ... 575 Hams of Chicken with Zampmo 765 Hare a la Chatelaine stuffed 644 back, roasted, with cream (Fig. 3991 . 645 jugged 644 pie, without a mold 781 young, a la Castiglioue sauted 645 young, a la Polignac epigrammes., 645 young, cutlets a la Favorite 690 young, fillets, with currant jelly and raisin sauce 646 young, paupiettes, with stuffed olives 646 Hash a la Sam Ward tenderloin of beef. 693 a la Sheppler tenderloin of beef. . . . 693 beef, corned 693 beef, corned, American style 693 chicken, ancient style 693 chicken baked 694 lamb, a la Celestine baked 694 INDEX. 1159 Hash, lamb, Creole style ................. lainb, with bananas ................. mutton, a la Omer Pacba ............ partridge, a la Cleinenceau .......... pheasant ........................... veal cakes, Brittany style ............ venison, American style, and with poached eggs ................... woodcock, in a croustade with soft eggs ..................... . ..... young rabbit, garnished with cro- quettes ......................... Hatelets, Bellevue (Figs. 501 to 507) ...... chopped sticky jelly ................ chopped transparent jelly ........... croutons ............................ for hot removes and entrees (skewers) (Fig. 11) ........................ lean, for fish ....................... miscellaneous ....... ............... vegetable .......................... Head cheese ----- ..................... pig's, puree of split green peas ...... wild boar, decorated (Fig 537) ....... Herrings, fresh, a la Calaisienne ......... fresh, mustard sauce ............... . fresh, thickened uiaitre-d'hotel sauce Dutch, paupiettes of, Polonaise ...... paupiettes with milts ................ salt, with mashed potatoes ........... shad or mackerel, marinated ......... smoked ........................... smoked and salted with cream ....... Hominy and Samp (crushed corn) ....... Hop stalks or points, fried ............... stalks or points, with Viennese sauce Hors-d'oeuvre cold ...... .............. hot ................................ Horseradish, ........................... grated ............................. ribbons .......... ...... . .......... Ice cream, a la Cialdini ................ Andalusian without cooking ....... apricot ........................... burnt almond ..................... burnt almond with angelica ......... caramel ............................ cherries ..................... ...... chocolate ........................... cinnamon ..... ................... cocoa .............................. Columbia .......................... currant ............................ fresh fruits without eggs or cooking. ginger ............................. nectarines ......................... nougat ........................... nougat, Neapolitan ................. peach, a la Herbster ............... peaches ............................ pineapple ...... .................... pistachio ........................... PAGE. 694 694 694 694 695 695 695 695 696 766 767 767 765 172 766 765 766 802 576 801 442 443 443 360 443 443 360 360 443 640 828 828 355 368 360 194 194 986 986 987 988 988 986 987 986 987 986 986 987 987 987 987 987 987 987 987 987 987 PAGE. Ice Cream, pistachio, made with almonds 988 pumpernickel rye bread 987 raspberries 987 rice, Paradise. 988 rice, with citron garnished with truffles 988 strawberries ,.. 987 truffle ,. 988 vanilla (Nos. 1 and 8) 988 vanilla, light, milk and whipped cream (No. 7) 989 vanilla, Roman, syrup and cream (No. 6) 989 vanilla, snow, Italian meringue and whipped cream (No. 5) 989 vanilla, with cream (No. 3) 988 vanilla, with milk and cream (No. 2). 988 vanilla, without cream or milk (No. 4). 989 virgin coffee 989 virgin, with orange-flower water 989 virgin, with orange flower and noyau. 989 white coffee 989 with almonds or nuts fresh or dried. 990 with chestnuts, boiled 991 with chestnuts, roasted . 990 - with eggs and black coffee 990 with maraschino, prunelle, kirsch, tea or all flower 990 with pignons, Brazilian nuts, walnuts or hazel-nuts 990 without cooking, chocolate 991 without cooking, chocolate light. .... 991 without cooking, coffee 991 without cooking, lemon 991 without cooking, orange-flower water. 991 without cooking, vanilla 991 without eggs, light with black coffee. 990 Ices (plate) 977 compositions frozen by machine (Figs. 611,612, 613) 979 how to cook the cream for 979 how to freeze by hand in a long covered freezer (Figs. 614, 615).. . 979 how to freeze by hand in a wide un- covered freezer (Fig. 616) 980 machine with long freezer (Fig. 617).. 980 manner of freezing, Neapolitan style (Fig. 618) 980 -mold and freeze small ices and large ones representing figures 981 pack sorbetieres or freezers in ice, to (Fig. 619) 981 preliminary remarks on 977 unmold small ices and figures, how to 981 water bottles, how to freeze (Fig. 620). 981 water socles, plain, colored (Fig. 621). 982 biscuits iced, a la d'Orleans (Figs. 624, 625) 883 biscuits iced, cases, how to make them (Fig. 626) 9&3 biscuits iced, Excelsior (Figs. 622, 623) 983 1160 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. Ices biscuits iced, Diplomate 982 biscuits iced, with vanilla and straw- berry, melon-shaped (Fig. 626). . . 984 bomb, a la Constantino (Fig. 627) .... 984 bomb, a la Trobriand 984 bomb, Fifth avenue 985 bomb, Printanier, fruit 985 bomb, Roman 985 bomb streaked with black coffee 985 bomb streaked with white coffee 985 bomb, with liquors 985 Fiori di latte 991 Fiori di latte a la Bellini 991 Fiori di latte a la Orlandini 991 Fiori di latte, with burnt almonds and pistachios 992 Fiori di latte, with vanilla and other flavorings 992 Fiori di latte, with violets (Fig. 628) . 992 mousse a la Semiramis (Fig. 629) 992 mousse a la Siraudin 992 mousse, chocolate 99b mousse, coffee 993 mousse, fruit, with pineapple or other fruits 993 mousse, Italian 993 mousse, Italian, the pistachio 993 mousse, Italian, the strawberry 993 mousse, Italian, the vanilla 993 mousse, with chestnuts 994 mousse, with liquors 993 mousse, with macaroons 993 parfait, excellent, with coffee (Fig. 631) 994 parfait of nougat (Fig. 630) 994 parfait of nougat with almonds 994 parfait, with coffee 994 plombiere a la Montesquieu (Fig. 632) 995 plombiere a la Richmond 995 plombiere a la Rochambeau 995 plombiere d'Alengon 996 plombiere, Havanese style 996 plombiere with cherries 996 plombiere with chestnuts 996 pudding, banana (Fig. 633) 997 pudding, biscuit 997 pudding, Cavour 997 pudding, Constance 997 pudding, Diplomat 998 pudding, Duchess 998 pudding, Fleury 998 pudding, Imperial, rice. 998 pudding, Nesselrode, with candied chestnuts 998 pudding, plum (Fig. 634) 999 pudding. Romanoff 999 pudding, Serano (Fig. 635) 999 pudding, Sicilian 999 pudding, Waddington 1000 punch and sherbet 1000 Ices punch, Beatrice (Fig. 636) punch, Bouquetiere (Figs. 637, 638, 639) punch, champagne (Fig. 640) punch, coffee, granite with coffee. . . . punch, cordial iced punch, Dolgorouski (Figs. 641, 642). punch, Elizabeth (Fi^. 643) punch, favorite (Fig. 644) punch, imperial (Fig. 645) punch, milk iced (Fig. 646) punch, Montmorency (Fig. 647) punch, Nenuphar lilies (Fig. 648). . . punch, Pargny punch, Roman punch, Siberian Lalla Rookh punch, sunflower (Fig. 649) punch, Stanley (Fig. 650) punch, Tosca (Fig. 651) punch, Tremiere (Fig. 652) sherbet, American (Fig. 653) sherbet, Andalusian (Figs. 654, 655, 656> sherbet, Californian (Figs. 657, 658).. sherbet, Mephisto (Fig. 659) sherbet, paradise sherbet, parfait amour (Fig. 660) sherbet, Paquerette (Fig. 661) sherbet, Rebecca (Fig. 662) sherbet, Venetian (Fig. 663) sherbet, young America (Fig. 664). . . . Sabayon a la Canetti. ... - Sabayon a la Denari souffles, Alcazar iced (Fig. 665) souffles, Favart souffles, Palmyra spongade a la Medicis (Fig. 666) spongade a la Parepa cream.. varied, Alaska, Florida (Figs. 667, 668) varied, Alexandria (Fig. 669) varied, asparagus (Fig. 670) varied, bananas in surprise (Fig. 671) varied, Blidah (Fig. 672) varied, caramel bouchees (Fig. 673).. varied, cards (Fig. 681) varied, cauliflower, with marchioness varied, Ceylon with coffee (Fig. 674).. varied, Charlotte Corday (Fig. 675). . . varied, corn (Fig. 676) varied, Countess Leda (Fig. 677) varied, cream, Chateaubriand varied, cream, hazel-nut varied, cream, racahout varied, cream, Venus varied, dice (Figs. 678, 680) varied, dominoes (Fig. 679) varied, eggs a la Tremontaine, red wine sauce (Fig. 682) varied, Esmeralda (Fig. 683) varied, Frascati PAGE. 1000 1000 1000 1001 1001 1002 1001 1001 1001 1001 1002 1002 1002 1002 1002 1003 1003 1003 1003 1003 1003 1004 1004 1004 1004 1004 1005 1005 1005 1005 1005 1005 1006 1006 1006 1006 1006 1007 1007 1007 1007 1008 1008 1009 1008 1008 1008 1009 1009 1017 1013 1017 1014 1009 1009 1010 1010 1010 INDEX. 1161 PAGE. Ices varied, fromage glace (Fig. 684) 1010 varied, harlequin (Figs. 685, 686). . . 1010 varied. Jardiniere cutlets (Fig. 687).. 1011 varied. La Grandina (Fig. 688) 1011 varied, lemons in surprise (Fig. 689).. 1011 varied, Leona (Fig. 690) 1012 varied, macedoine croquettes 1012 varied, macedoine of fruits 1012 varied, Madeleine (Fig. 692) 1012 varied, Madrilian. . . 1012 varied, marvelous (Fig. 693) 1013 varied, Mignon (Fig. 694) 1013 varied, Mokabelle 1013 varied, Montelimar with hazel-nut cream (Fig. 695) 1013 varied, muffs a la Dejazet, Venus cream (Fig. 696) . . 1014 varied, mushrooms (Fig. 697) 1014 varied, Neapolitan (Figs. 698, 699, 700) 1014 varied, oranges, basket filled with (Fig. 701) 1015 varied, oranges, Posilipo (Fig. 702).. 1015 varied, Seville and macedoine baskets 1015 varied, Parisian (Fig. 703) 1015 varied, pears or apples in surprise (Fig. 704, 705) 1015 varied, potatoes (Fig. 706) 1016 varied, Ribambelle 1016 varied, rice a la Ristori 1016 varied, rice with maraschino 1016 varied, salpicon, to make 1017 varied, Sicilian 1016 varied, St. Jacques cups (Fig. 691). . . 1012 varied, timbales, Algerian 1016 varied, timbales, Chateaubriand (Fig. 707) 1017 varied, tomatoes, stuffed (Fig. 708). . . 1017 varied, Toronchino Procope 1018 varied, Tortoni cups (Fig. 709) 1018 varied, tutti frutti biscuits (Fig. 710). 1018 varied, tutti frutti (Fig. 711) 1018 varied, Valence cup, with peaches (Fig. 712) , 1018 varied, vermeil globules a la Dam- seaux (Figs. 713, 714) 1018 varied, watermelon 1019 large pieces, Bacchus (Fig. 715) 1019 large pieces, cantaloup in surprise.. .. 1019 large pieces, cantaloup, molded (Fig. 716) 1020 large pieces, delicious with hazel-nuts (Fig. 717) 1020 large pieces, fruit basket with doves (Fig. 718) 1020 large pieces, hen with chicks; nest with eggs (Figs. 719, 720) 1021 large pieces, pineapple in surprise (Fig. 721) 1022 large pieces, pineapple, molded 1022 large pieces, rabbit in surprise (Fig. 722) 1022 4- PAGS. Ices large pieces, swans with reeds and rushes (Fig. 723) 1023 large pieces, the helmet (Fig. 724). . . . 1023 large pieces, the well (Fig. 725) 1024 large pieces turban with pineapple, strawberry or Sultana (Fig. 726).. 1024 large pieces, turban with vanilla, strawberry 1025 water, fresh fruits 1025 water, fresh fruits, apricots. 1025 water, fresh fruits, barberries 1025 water, fresh fruits, cherries 1025 water, fresh fruits, currants 1025 water, fresh fruits, nectarines 1025 water, fresh fruits, peaches 1025 water, fresh fruits, pomegranates. . . . 1025 water, grape fruit 1026 water, guanabana, medlar, melon, pear or plum 1025 water, how to prepare and finish 1025 water, lemon 1026 water, orange 1036 water, orange, with gelatine 1026 water, pineapple 1026 water, pineapple, infused in syrup. . . 1026 water, raspberry 1026 water, strawberry 1026 Iced drinks 1027 chocolate 1027 coffee, black 1027 coffee, brandy 1027 coffee, in sherbet 1027 coffee, mixed , 1027 gramolates or granite with orange.. . . 1027 granite in water bottles with currants, cherries, pomegranates, etc 1027 grape fruits a la Madison 1027 orange punch, Russian style, unfrozen cold drinks (Fig. 727) 1028 Icing, chocolate cooked 194 cocoa cooked 194 fruit juice uncooked 195 royal, and flavored with zests 195 with syrup, for cakes flavored with vanilla, orange, lemon or fruit juices 195 Indian pickle, with fine herbs 360 Jam (see marmalade) 1052 Jealousies (see cakes) 953 Jelly, apple 1051 aspic, to prepare, clarify and filter (Figs. 50, 51) 195 Bar-le-duc 1053 calf's foot with Madeira wine 196 Californian pineapple 918 cherry with kirsch ... 1051 chopped and sticky (Figs. 505, 506, 507) 767 cranberry 1052 currant !0?1 currant, plain 105J 1162 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. Jelly, currant, with apples 1052 hatelets (Figs. 501 to 507) 766 macedoiue with champagne 919 meat, with gelatine 196 molds, to coat 181 orange 1051 orange, in cups 919 quince 1052 raspberry 919 rose 919 Russian 919 strawberry 919 sweet, with gelatine or fish isinglass.. 196 Tunisian, ribboned 919 violet (Fig. 591) 920 wine and liquor 920 with fruits and kirsch 920 Jerusalem artichokes a la Salamander 828 Juice, clear grape 1052 strawberry 1052 to filter fruit 916 Keep subjects or pieces of confectionery, to 1031 Kidneys, lamb, a la Lully 554 lamb, brochettes of 554 lamb, Flemish style 554 lamb, glazed 554 lamb, on skewers 554 lamb, stewed with Madeira 554 lamb, with mushrooms 554 mutton, a la Burtel 537 mutton, a la Soubise 538 mutton, on skewers (Fig. 341) 538 mutton, on skewers, Bordelaise sauce. 538 mutton, on skewers, deviled 538 mutton, sauted with neurons 538 veal, a 1' Anderson 517 veal, a la Roederer 517 veal, with marrow . 517 veal, with white wine 518 Kingflsh a la Bateliere (Fig. 293) 443 la Bella 444 a la Bordelaise 444 a la Figaro 444 a la Montgolfier 444 a la Princelay 444 a la Sultana 444 baked 445 boudins, Poniatowski 678 cutlets, mayonnaise mousseline 688 fillets a la Valengay (Fig. 508) 767 en the dish with gastrite 445 Kitchen utensils (Figs. 115 to 197) 223 Kohl-rabies, housekeeper's style 821 stuffed 821 Knlibiac, Russian 383 Smolenska 383 Kwass 268 Lady fingers (see cakes) (Fig. 609) 963 Lafayette cake with rum 953 fish, breaded, English style 445 Lamb. . . 547 PAGE. Lamb, baron of, a la de Rivas 547 breasts, baked 547 breasts, chopped sauce 547 breasts, with turnips 547 breasts, with veloute tomato sauce stuffed 547 carbonade a la Jardiniere 548 carbonade a la Rambuteau 548 crows, ravigote sauce 548 cutlets (see cutlets) 548 epigrammes a la Toulouse 553 epigraiumes, Ancient style 553 escalops a la Habirshaw 692 fries, cream horseradish sauce 553 fries, tomato sauce 553 hash with bananas 694 haslets, marinated 553 head, Genoese or vinaigrette sauce. . . 554 kidneys (see kidneys) 554 leg a la Bercy 555 leg a la Britannia boiled 555 leg a la Fearing kernel 555 leg a la Guyane whole 555 leg, Blanquette of 556 leg, caper sauce boiled 555 leg, green sauce boiled 555 leg, King's pilau 55(5 leg, slices, a la Dordogne 556 leg, slices, a la Previllot (Fig. 348).. . 556 leg, steak, plain, maitre-d'hotel (Figs. 349,350) 556 leg, to roast in the oven 557 leg with carrots 557 leg with gravy, roasted yearling.. . . 557 leg with puree of onions with cream.. 557 loin, German style yearling 557 loin with sauted tomatoes 557 minced a la Rivera 557 minion fillets a la Benoist 558 minion fillets a la Landgrave 558 minion fillets a la Lefort 558 minion fillets as venison 558 minion fillets, cream sauce 558 minion fillets in surprise 558 minion fillets, Printaniere 559 minion fillets with shallot sauce and marrow roasted and larded 559 minion fillets with truffles sauted. . . 559 neck with cabbage 559 noisettes of shoulder, Epicurean 559 quarter (fore) with stuffed tomatoes on the spit 560 quarter (hind), mint or Colbert sauce. 560 rack, Castillane sauce broiled 560 rack with artichokes sauted 560 rack with puree of split peas larded and roasted 560 saddle (double) with the legs and potato croquettes 561 saddle (fore) with chestnuts 561 saddle (hind) a la Brighton 561 saddle (hind) a la Chanceliere . 561 INDEX. H63 PAGE. Lamb, saddle (hind) a la Florentine 561 saddle (bind) a la Paganini 561 saddle (hind) a la Sanford 561 saddle (hind), American style 562 saddle (hind), French style and dress- ing 562 - saddle (hind), with mashed turnips braised 562 - saddle (hind) with gravy roasted. . . . 562 saddle (hind; with puree of beans slices 563 shoulder a la Benton 563 shoulder a la Dessaix 563 shoulder a la Gamier 563 shoulder with cucumbers 563 shoulder with glazed vegetables stuffed 564 shoulder with puree of celery and dressing stuffed 564 stewed, Duglere rack 564 stewed, Irish style 565 stewed, Navarin 564 stewed, Parisian style . 565 stewed. Peruvian style 565 stewed, with turnips 565 sweetbreads a la Financiere 565 sweetbreads a la Joinville 566 sweetbreads a la Sevigne 566 tails a la Conti 566 tendrons or gristle with Robert sauce broiled . 566 tongues with olives 566 trotters, a la Bordelaise 566 trotters a la Bordelaise, Wenberg. . . . 566 trotters a la Chantilly 567 trotters a la Didier 567 trotters a la poulette 567 trotters with tarragon gravy stuffed and broiled 567 whole, a la Theodora hot and cold. . 567 Lamprey a la Rabelais 445 Lard 196 meats, poultry and game, to (Figs. 56 to 69) 197 axunge 196 veal udder 197 Larding 1 pork, to prepare 197 to cut fat pork for (Figs. 52 to 55) 197 Larks a la Marechale 646 broiled . . 646 Perigueux sauce roasted 647 with rice 647 Lazagnettes, Philadelphia style 866 Legs of chickens as ducklings 768 Lemons, oranges, figs, blackberries . 361 to cut in various manners (Figs. 60, 61) 198 Lemonade. 1066 with syrup 1066 Lentils with bacon 828 Lettuces, chopped with croutons 829 stuffed and fried. . , 829 PAGE. Lettuces with half glaze stuffed 829 with thickened gravy braised . 829 Limes, preserved 1054 Lobsters and spiny lobsters (Figs. 272, 273) 408 a la Bonnefoy 409 a. la Bordelaise small 408 a la Bouloguaise 361 a la Britannia 409 a la Canaille 409 a la Carlu small 412 a ia Creole 409 a la Delmonico 411 a la Duglere 409 a la Fresne 410 a la Gambetta 410 a la Hervey 410 a la Lawrence 410 a la Maryland 410 a la Monte Carlo small tails 410 a la Newberg 411 a la Paul Bert 411 a la Ravigote 768 a la Rougemont 412 a la Stanley tails , - 412 American style , . . 408 cream of 747 cutlets a la Shelly or with cream sauce 688 deviled roasted 409 dome, garnished with small cases . . . 751 in a border 768 Printaniere mayonnaise 361 Provengal style 411 roasted on the spit 411 tails in their shells (Fig. 509) 769 tails stuffed and deviled 412 with cream 413 with mayonnaise 769 Macaroni a la Brignoli 866 baked 866 Neapolitan style 866 Parisian style 866 timbale Milanese of, or noodles (Fig. 571) 871 with cream and truffles 866 with game puree 867 (Mezzani Grandi) a la Cavallotti 867 spaghetti (see spaghetti) 867 Macaronicelli a la Lucini 867 Macaronade 920 Macaroons (see cakes) 964 Macedonia a la Montigny 829 Russian 361 Mackerel, fresh 445 fillets, Bonnefoy 446 in oil 361 in papers, Mephisto 446 maitre d'hotel 446 with white piquante sauce 446 salt and smoked, cream horseradisn sauce. . . 446 THE PAGE. Mackerel, smoked 361 Spanish, a la Perigord 446 Spanish, a la Viennet (Fig. 294). . .. 447 Spanish, with crawfish fillets 447 Spanish, with gooseberries stuffed. . 447 Spanish, with green peas 447 Madeleines and Genoese Madeleines 953 Commercy 953 with ruin 953 Malaga raisins stuffed and glazed 1035 Marinade, cooked 199 -raw 199 Market list 21 MarshalNey 921 Marmalade or Jam, apple 1052 apple, sour 955 apricot or peach 1053 fig 1053 melon and orange 1053 raspberry and strawberry 1057 white currant (large), Bar-le-duc jelly 1053 Marrow squash a la Parmesan 841 Mars cakes (see cakes) 954 Maskinonge a la Providence 449 Matelote a la Mariniere, St. Mande 447 a la Talabasse 448 of canotiers 448 of carp, miroir 448 of fishermen 448 Materials for making easy sugar pieces. . . 1033 Mazarine with pineapple and kirsch 890 Meringue, Italian 204 how to dress (Fig. 62) 199 Mincemeat 199 Mirlitons of pears a la Bienvenue 890 Rouen 954 Mocha cake 939 sugar 939 Mongrel goose or duck roasted. ... 609 Mortadella (Fig. 213) 365 Mosaic, with cream 921 Moscovite of strawberries 921 Mossoganem 921 Mousse a laBeluiout, Costa, Virginienne. . 383 Mousseline, Cardinal (Fig. 223) 383 chicken forcemeat for 191 foies-gras a la Dana 769 game forcemeat for 192 ham 383 Isabella (Fig 224) 384 kingfish a la Briere 770 lobster (Fig. 510) 770 marechale (Fig. 225) 384 pheasant, princesse (Fig. 511) 771 -pullet (Fig. 512) 771 ~ Richmond (Fig. 226) 384 Robertson ham (Fig. 227) 384 salmon forcemeat for 192 Wa'esky (Fig. 228) 384 white game a la Medicis (Fig. 229). . . 384 woodcock (Fig. 230) 385 woodcock (Fig. 513) 771 Jf. PAGE. Mousseline, young rabbit 385 Mousses (see ices) 992 Mullets with d'Antin sauce 448 Munich with peaches 890 M n slum-Ion and cantaloupe 361 Mushrooms a la Dumas oronges 830 a la Raynal mousserons (Fig. 549). . 830 a la Rivera morils 830 crusts, and with truffles mousserons 830 Sauted in thickened butter mous- serons 831 served under a glass cover, and with cream (Fig. 550) 831 stuffed in cases with Madeira mous- serons 831 stuffed and glazed with chaudfroid (Fig. 496) 762 to turn, channel and flute 199 Mussels (Fig. 274) 413 a la mariniere 413 a la poulette 413 a la Villeroi 414 stuffed a la Toulousaine 414 to prepare ... 413 with fine herbs baked 414 with shallot 414 Mutton, American cuts (Fig. 334) 531 breast, plain 531 breast, tomato, Andalusian sauce stuffed 531 breast, tendon and shoulder, Navarin 531 breast, with turnips haricot of 532 carbonade a la Juvigny (Fig. 335) . . 532 chops and cutlets plain (Fig. 336). .. 532 chops, Soyer (Fig. 337) 532 chops, tavern style (Fig. 338) 533 cutlets (see cutlets) 533 double, baron or saddle roasted (Fig. 340) 535 ears a la Westphalian 536 epigrammes a la Jardiniere 536 fillets a 1'Alexandre 536 fillets, grenadins, poivrade sauce.... 536 fillets, noisettes Provencal style 537 fillets, noisettes, glazed 536 fillets, noisettes with cooked fine herbs 537 fillets, paupiettes a la Delussan 537 fillets, slices, maitre-d'hotel 537 fillets, whole, with Greek ravioles larded 537 kidneys (see kidneys) 537 leg, a la Bordelaise 538 leg, a la Bourdaloue 539 leg, a la Bourgeoise 539 leg, a la Chipolata 539 leg, a la Garrison 768 leg, a la Reglain 539 leg, a la Roederer 540 leg, boiled, Grainville 540 leg. boiled, with caper sauce 540 leg, boiled with mashed turnips 540 leg, kernel, a la Milanaise 540 1165 PAGE. Mutton, leg, kernels, in papers 540 leg, minced, a la Lyonnese 540 leg, on the spit 541 leg, Parisian style, in the oven 541 leg, with puree of beans 541 leg, with rice 541 loin, roasted on the spit or in the oven 541 loin, with puree of carrots 542 neck, jugged and marinated, thick- ened with blood 542 paunch, Scotch Haggis 542 pie, Canadian 713 pilaff, French style (Fig. 342) 542 quarter, with gastronome potatoes . . . 542 rack with small roots (Fig. 343) 543 saddle, Duchess style 543 saddle, German style 543 saddle, Piedmontese style 543 saddle, Printaniere 543 saddle, roasted on the spit (Fig. 344). . 543 saddle, with glazed roots braised. . . 544 saddle or baron with mashed potatoes in the oven (Fig. 345) 544 shoulder, marinated with cream sauce 544 shoulder with potatoes 545 shoulder, with rice 545 shoulder, with turnips 545 tails, with olives 545 tenderloin, a la Henry Clay 772 tendons, with mushrooms 545 tongues, ecarlate, with spinach 546 tongues, Neapolitan style 546 trotters a la poulette. 546 trotters a la vinaigrette 546 Noisettes (see beef) 493 Noodles a la Lauer 868 baked 868 sauted in butter 868 timbale of, a la Pearsall 871 with fried bread- crumbs 868 Nougat, brown 1033 brown, for center pieces 1033 of apricots (see cakes) 954 Parisian 1034 pistachio 1034 soft and hard 1049 white 1034 white, hard 1049 white, soft 1049 Okra or gumbo, garnished with barley bechamel croustades 832 Olives, crescent or Lucques, Spanish, Queen, black, verdales (Fig. 208). 361 stuffed with anchovy butter 361 stuffed with anchovies 361 to stone (Fig. 63) 200 Omelet a la Andrews 855 Argentine (Fig. 565) 852 bacon 852 beef palate or lamb's trotters 853 Bertini 853 Bonvalet. . 853 PAGE. Omelet, cheese, with crusts and fondue Swiss or Parmesan , 853 chicken liver 853 clams hard or soft 853 cream, plain 853 Desjardins 853 Duxelle or cooked fine herb 853 fine herb raw 854 frog 854 German style 854 green, with fine herbs, spinach or with sorrel crusts 854 ham and green peas 854 Havanese 854 herring smoked 854 Hunter's 855 kidney 855 mushroom or sweetbread 855 onion and ham 855 oyster 855 parsley 855 physiological 856 sausage 856 shrimp 856 Spanish 856 sorrel 854 truffle 856 with caviare a la Stoeckel 855 Celestine sweet 890 Celestine with whipped cream sweet. 890 Frangipane sweet 891 rum sweet 891 souffle, ancient style sweet 891 souffle, light sweet t . . . 891 souffle, with almonds sweet 891 souffle, with apples sweet 892 souffle, with macaroons sweet 892 souffle, with preserves sweet 892 souffle, with vanilla sweet 892 stuffed with preserves and glazed sweet 892 stuffed with strawberries sweet (Fig. 577) 893 with fruits, meringued sweet 893 with puree of spinach sweet 893 with russet apples sweet 893 Onions boiled, Hollandaise or Soubise sauce 832 braised 832 stuffed, white or Bermuda 832 Orange or lemon peel, preserved 1054 punch, Russian style 1028 - salads 1056 salads with apples 1056 stewed 1056 Orangeade 1066 Ornaments for cold desserts 922 aigrettes 922 hatelets 922 tufts 922 voluptes 922 Oxtails a la Castellane 474 1166 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. Oxtails a la Chipolata 474 Alsatian style 475 fried 475 Hochepot 475 with vegetables 475 Oysters (Figs. 275, 276) 414 a la Bearnaise. toraatoed 415 a la bechamel with truffles 417 a la Boucicault 415 a la Hollandaise 417 a la Pompadour risolettes 415 a la Rubino 415 a la Viennaise 417 a la Villeroi 415 baked, a la Crane 415 brochettes with truffles 415 broiled, maitre d'hotel 416 broiled, on skewers 416 crabs, (see crabs) 402 crabs, pickled 362 fricasseed, or a la poulette 417 fried a la Horly 416 fried with butter or lard 416 in aspic 725 on crusts ., 416 on half shell and Little Neck clams. . 862 Philadelphia style 416 pickled 362 steamed and on toast 417 stuffed a la Mornay 417 stuffed and fried 417 tartare 362 to poach 417 with curry, Indian style 418 with fine herbs 418 with Parmesan, fried in oil 418 Oyster plant or salsify a la poulette 840 fried 840 sauted 840 " Pain" of apricots 922 of bananas, Havanese 922 of capon with tarragon small 772 of chestnuts a la Beotic (Fig. 592). . . 922 of chicken a 1'ecarlate small (Fig. 514) 772 of chicken a la Freycinet small. . . . 773 of chicken a la Villas 696 of crawfish, Chartreuse (Fig. 424) 696 of game a la Bartholdi (Fig. 515). ... 773 of game, Diana (Fig. 516) 775 of liver with salpicon 776 of partridges a la Montgomery (Fig. 517) 776 of pheasant with cream 696 of pike 697 of strawberries with cream small (Fig. 593) 923 of young rabbit 777 of young rabbit a la Maintenon. . . . 697 Palms (see cakes) 954 Palmettes (Fig. 231) 385 Junot . . 385 Palmettes of fat livers, Delmontes of Guinea fowl and wild duck, Pala- dio of ham a 1'Aquitane of hare and young rabbit, Polish. . . . of pheasants a la Torrens of pullet or capon, Clinton of quails or partridges, African. ..... of snipe with truffles a la Osborn ..... of turkey a la Bearnaise Perier Primatice Varsovian Panada, cream Frangipane of flour and milk, bread-crumb and pate-a-chou wheat and rice flour Pancakes a la Dejazet a la Rossini, uieringued corn German peach marmalade, macedoine sticks, Royeaux with brown sugar light with orange flower water large with preserves light Paper ruffles and frills Parfaits (see ices) Parsley bouquet, in branches, fried or chopped Parsnip cakes fried in butter Partridges a la Baudrimont a la Chartreuse a la Marly , a la Matignon, garnished with " pains " a la Montglas a la Soyer boned and sliced in Bellevue boned a la Clementine (Fig. 487) braised a la Moliere breasts or fillets a la Jules Verne (Fig. 400) breasts or fillets a la Lucullus breasts or fillets a la Veron breasts or fillets, Giraldi broiled, Colbert sauce broiled, English style minced minced, with rice roast, larded salmis of truffled and roasted with cabbage with gravy and water-cress larded and roasted with olives with sauerkraut Pasle (see Elementary Methods).. almond candied almond, for fancy cakes almond, with cooked sugar almond, with egg-yolks. . , , PAGE. 386 200 832 649 649 650 650 650 756 755 650 647 648 648 647 651 647 649 649 777 649 651 651 651 652 652 201 1034 201 201 201 INDEX. 1167 PAGE. Paste, almond, with gum tragacanth 201 almond, with pistachios 201 apple 1053 apricot 1053 Baba 201 - Brioche 202 chestnut 1053 cooked, for fanciful borders 202 cream cake (Pate-a-chou) 202 dressing 202 English, for borders 203 filbert, with cooked sugar 201 fine 203 flawn 203 foundation 203 f rolle 203 frying batters 203 gum 1034 macaroon 204 marchpane, with orange-flower water 204 meringue, plain 204 meringue, Italian, with cooked sugar. 204 Milan 204 noodle, for borders 204 office... 204 peach 1053 pie cold 204 pie hot, 205 puff and half puff (Figs. 64, 65, 66).. . 205 quince 1053 Raviole 206 repere, for fastening 204 Savarin 206 short 203 sweet 203 tart 206 timbale 206 Patties a 1'Andalouse bouchees (Fig. 232) 387 a la Reine bouchees 387 clam bouchees 388 crab bouchees 387 crawfish bouchees 387 game puree bouchees . . 387 lobster bouchees 387 mushroom, fresh bouchees 387 mussel bouchees 388 oyster bouchees 388 oyster crab bouchees 387 puff paste, Cracovian small (Fig 233) 388 puff paste, of veal Godiveau with chives small 388 puff paste, Mazarin small 388 puff paste, salmon small 389 - puff paste, St. Hubert small 388 scallop bouchees 388 shrimp bouchees , . 387 - small puff (Figs. 67, 68, 69) 206 sweetbread, French style bouchees. 388 Turbigo bouchees 388 Victoria bouchees 388 with salpicon of foies-gras 388 with salpicon, Moritglas 388 PAGB. Patties, with salpicon, Regence 388 with salpicon Royal 388 Patty a la Palmerston large 697 a la Richelieu large (Fig. 425) 698 quail small 698 reedbirds large 698 sweetbreads a la McAllister large.. . 699 Peaches a la Lou voisienne 923 brandied 1050 Colbert 895 Conde 896 meringued 896 preserved whole large 1054 Richelieu 896 Stevens 896 stewed 1057 Peacock, roasted, adorned with its plum- age 777 Pears, alligator 355 canned 1050 Ferriere , 897 Lombarde, stuffed 897 preserved 1055 Peas, green, a la fleurette 827 green, French style 827 green, French style with sugar 827 green, housekeeper's style 827 Parisian style small 828 puree 828 with braised lettuce 828 with shredded lettuce 828 Perch, Polish style (Fig. 295) 449 stuffed and baked 449 Valois sauce boiled 449 with parsley water, celerv root and parsnips 449 Peppers, green, or red 362 green, stuffed 832 sweet, sauted 832 Pheasant (Fig. 401) 652 adorned with their own plumage roasted 653 a la Montebello 653 a la Perigueux 654 boned, a la Lorenzo 757 boned, cut up 757 breasts or fillets with truffles 652 cutlets a la Reginald 688 cutlets in chaudfroid (Figs. 481, 482). 749 escalops with olives 692 minced 649 salmis a la Lorenzo 653 stuffed, a la Prince Orloff 778 truffled roasted 654 with truffles larded 654 Pickerel, tomato Andalouse sauce (Fig. 296) 450 Pie (see tarts) 712 a la Bontoux large 699 apple 923 apple, peach or rhubarb hot 897 beef, a la Perez 712 green. g/een, green, green, 1168 THE Pie, chicken, a la Manhattan. . chicken, a la Rigolo chicken, Australian style. chicken, to be cut up cocoanut. . cream duckling, a la Rouennaise eel (Fig. 426) fat liver, Alsatian large (Fig. 427). . foies gras in cradle, to be cut in slices. game, dressed a la Lesage goose, a la Adolphe Hardy fillets. . . goose liver (Fig. 518; goose liver, cut up ham hare, in A dish hare, without a mold lamb loin lamb minion fillets, a la Manning. . . . lemon custard, Venetian style lobster, a la Herault marrow, Frangipane hot mince hot mutton, leg of, Canadian oyster, Smith style pigeon, a la Britannia plover large pork liver, or terrine pork, loin of, English style pumpkin quail rabbit, with fine herbs rhubarb rhubarb, with cream salmon small (patties), with gravy (Fig. 428). snipe Strasburg liver (Fig. 519) veal , a la Dickenson veal and ham woodcock cold woodcock hot Pig, division of a (Fig. 351) feet a la St. Menehould feet, broiled feet, truffled feet with truffles, Perigord head head with puree of split green peas. . suckling, a la Piedmontese. . . suckling, boned suckling, roasted on the spit or stuffed suckling, salted and smoked, with sauerkraut tongues. Proven gal style Pigeons a la Chartreuse a la Lombardy poeled a la Valenciennes and squabs (wild) poupeton, Ancient style boned . . PAGE. 712 712 713 778 924 924 778 699 700 752 779 779 781 782 780 780 781 781 713 924 713 897 898 713 713 714 700 777 714 924 783 714 924 924 783 700 783 782 714 784 784 701 671 573 573 573 573 784 576 578 758 579 579 580 615 616 616 654 758 PAGE. Pigeons, garnished with Montglas cases stuffed (Fig. 379) 616 Huntress style breasts 617 Monarch style smothered 617 pie a la Britannia 714 potted 617 pourpeton 654 Printaniere style 617 stewed 618 with crawfish 618 with green peas 618 with olives breasts (Fig. 380) 618 Pike, with hazel-nut butter sauce 451 Pike perch a la Durance 450 a la Financiere 450 a la Geraldin 450 a la Royale 450 Continental style fillets 451 Russian style 450 Pilau of beef a la Reglain 495 of chicken 597 of mutton, French style 542 of Turkish style soup 277 Pineapple, canned 1051 Carolina 898 preserved 1055 stewed 1057 with rice and cream (Fig. 578) 898 PlombiSres (see ices) 995 Plover (Fig. 392) 639 a la Dumanoir bustard 656 a la Montauban 655 a la Stoughton 655 a la Parny breasts 655 a la Victor Hugo breasts 655 broiled 655 golden, grass and bustard (observa- tions) 654 roasted 655 roasted a la Martel larded 655 salmis a la Duclair yellow leg 656 Poach quenelles, small timbales and mousselines, to 207 Poeler meats, to 173 Polenta 868 Ponipano a la Anthelme 451 a la Carondelet 451 a la Duclair 451 a la Macedoine 452 a la Mazarin 452 a la Potentini 452 a la Soya 452 a la Toulouse 452 fried with tomato sauce fillets 452 Porgies a la Manhattan 453 paupiettes, Hindostan 453 with Chablis wine 453 Pork, American cuts and divisions (Fig. 351) 571 bacon, smoked, with spinach, English style 569 black blood pudding 569 INDEX. 1169 Pork, breast, with cabbage salted ....... chine a ia Parmentier ............... chitterlings of Troyes, ingredients and to cook .......... ............. cutlets a 1' Aurora ................... cutlets and chops, plain and Castillane broiled ..................... cutlets half glaze ................. cutlets with apples ........ . ........ cutlets with apple croquettes ........ cutlets with cooked fine herbs ....... cutlets with gravy, Robert or gherkin sauce breaded ................ cutlets with mashed potatoes hashed. feet (see pig) ....................... ham (see hams) ..................... head .............................. head with puree of split green peas. . kernel a la Cavour and with noodles sliced ....................... kernel of ham a la Biarritz .......... loin a la Reglain .................... quarter Valenciennes ................ rack, crown-shaped, with small onions ....................... rack, on the spit .................... rack, with stuffed peppers .......... sausages, Chipolata ....... ........ sausages, gastronome ............... sausages in bags .................... sausages with cream potatoes baked. sausages with tomato, Soubise sauce flat .......................... . sausages with truffles ............... sausages with white wine long ..... spare ribs, Parisian style ............ suckling pig (see suckling pig) ....... tenderloin a la minute minced ..... tenderloin a la Printaniere .......... tenderloin, blanquette .............. tenderloin, escaloped with mushrooms or truffles ....................... tenderloin, marinated ............... tenderloin, pimentade sauce ......... tenderloin, roasted, broiled inaitre- d'liotel ......................... tenderloin, sauted half glaze ........ tenderloin with puree of celery breaded ....................... tongues a la Provencal .............. Zampino, Modena style, with string beans stuffed (Fig. 352) ......... Potatoes, Anna (Fig. 551) ............... baked ............................. Biarritz baked .................... Bignon ............................ boiled, English style ............... . boiled in their skins or peeled ....... boiled. Persillade balls .............. Bordelaise new ................. broiled, with fried bread raspings. . . . Bussy ............................ PAGE. 569 569 570 570 579 580 580 580 580 580 580 581 833 833 833 833 833 833 833 834 834 834 PAGE. Potato cakes 834 cakes with ham 834 chiffonade 362 chopped, with cream, and baked 834 cream of 834 croquettes, in surprise and Mai'sienne. 835 Dauphine , . . . 835 Duchess 835 fried and channeled 835 fritters . 836 gastronome 836 half glaze 835 Hollandaise, with melted butter or Hollandaise sauce 836 housekeeper's style 836 Julienne or straw 836 Long Branch (Fig. 552) 836 Lyonnese 836 maitre-d'hotel , 836 marchioness 837 Marshal 836 mashed (Fi#. 554) 837 mashed baked 837 mashed, in snow (Fig. 553) 837 mashed, in puree 837 mellow 837 Parisienne 835 Pont Neuf 837 Provengal 837 Sarah (Fig. 555) 838 Saratoga (Fig. 556) 838 sauted 838 sauted, with artichoke bottoms and truffles 838 shape of an omelet, in the 838 shavings (Fig. 557) 838 souffled 838 surprise, in , 839 tartlets 839 timbale a la Parmentier 839 Viennese 839 with minced truffles 839 Potatoes, sweet, boiled 842 broiled 843 croquettes 842 roasted 842 souffled 842 with lobster coral 842 Potted tenderloin of beef a la Nelson 701 Poulpetonnie're of pigeons 701 Poultry 583 to bone 170 Pound cake (see cakes) 940 Ponpelin. 898 Poupeton, Ancient style, or wild pigeons or squabs 654 Pousse cafe" 1067 Prairie hen (Fig. 394) 639 a la Tzarina breasts (Fig. 398) 643 Preserved fruits and fresh, coated with caramel 1055 coated with grained sugar 1055 1170 THE EPIOTTREAM PAGE. Preserved grapes 1055 quartered oranges 1055 greengages 1053 lemon peel 1054 limes 1054 orange peel 1054 peaches large, whole 1054 pears 1055 quinces 1055 Press meats, galantines, breasts, sweet- breads, etc. (Figs. 70, 71) 207 Prunes, stewed 1057 Ptarmigan (Fig. 395) 639 prairie hen or goose broiled 643 Pudding (meat), beef tenderloin with oysters 701 lamb a la Gladstone 702 thrush 702 woodcock 702 Yorkshire 354 Pudding (sweet cold), Boissy 925 Castellane 925 Harrison 925 Lafayette 925 Ministerial .... 925 Renaissance 926 Valois 926 Pudding (sweet hot) a la Benvenuto. . . 899 a la Bradley 899 a la de Freese 900 Cabinet, a la Royale 899 Cabinet, with Sabayon 900 Countess 900 Franklyn 900 Humboldt 901 Italian 901 mellow, apricot sauce 899 peach, a la Cleveland (Figs. 579, 580). 901 plum, St. George, frothy vanilla sauce (Figs. 581, 582) 902 Plumerey 902 rice, a la Bagration 903 rice, fruit sauce 903 Saxony scuffled 903 Schiller 903 Scotch 903 Spanish 904 Tyrolean 904 with almonds light (Fig. 583) 904 with burnt almonds souffled 905 with hazel-nuts souffled 905 Pullet a la Arco Valley 619 a la Dame Blanche . 619 a la Demidoff 619 a la Leondise 619 a la Lester Wallack 620 a la Martiniere 620 a la Mornay 620 a la Nantua 620 a la Pengord. 620 a la Printaniere glazed 620 a la Seymour 621 PAQE. Pullet a la Villars 621 a la Zingara 621 ancient style ; 621 blanquette with mushrooms 624 breasts a la Montmorency (Fig. 383). . 624 breasts a la Montpensier (minion fillets) 625 breasts a la Varsovian 625 breasts a la Visconti 625 breasts with macedoine (minion fillets) 625 English style 621 Egyptian style broiled 621 in surprise (Fig. 381) 621 ivory with decorated quenelles 622 larded, with jelly (Fig. 520) 784 legs a la Bayounaise 626 legs, deviled 626 legs, with new carrots 626 modern style 622 - Parisian style stuffed (Fig. 382) 622 tartar sauce broiled 623 truffled roasted 623 with croustades Financiere 623 with mussels 623 with oysters 623 with ravioles 624 with water cress roasted 624 Pumpkin, fried in small sticks 839 Punch and sherbet (see ices) 1000 champagne 1066 claret 1066 Claudius 1067 rum 1066 wine, hot . .. 1067 Purges (see garnishings) 343 Purslaiu a la Barbancon green or golden 840 Pyramid of crawfish (Fig. 521) 785 of crustaceans a la Rochelaise 785 of meringues 926 quail (Fig. 391) 639 a la Caprea 656 a la macedoine larded 656 a la mirepoix 657 a la Talleyrand breasts 657 broiled 657 California, a la Monterey 659 cutlets, Girondins 657 in papers 657 Piedmontese style 657 roasted 658 salmis of, a la Morisini 658 with bayleaf 658 with mushrooms stuffed (Fig. 402). 658 with risot 659 Quenelles, chicken, a la Drew 702 chicken, a la Richelieu (Fig 429) 702 chicken, a la Bretonne (Fig. 430) 703 chicken, with consomme 703 decorated, molded and pocket, to pre- pare (Figs. 72 to 79) 208 fish, Montglas (Fig. 431) 703 foies-gras, stuffed a la Financiere (Fig. 432) 704 1171 PAGE. Quenelles for garnishings (see garnishings) 348 grouse, Londonderry 705 lobster 246 marrow 256 partridge, a la Stuart (Fig. 433) 705 pheasant fried 705 salmon stuffed (Fig. 434) 705 spring turkey, a la Providence (Fig. 4351 706 sweet potatoes 271 to mold with a spoon plain, filled or rolled in flour (Figs. 80 to 84) 209 woodcock, a la d'Artois (Fig. 436) 706 Quinces, preserved 1055 Rabbits, young, a la Celtoise 659 a la Thieblin 659 cutlets a la Previllot 690 fillets of, a la Bienvenu, garnished with croquettes 660 fillets of, a la Lavoisier 661 fillets of, with artichoke puree 661 fillets of, with currant sauce 661 fillets of, with mushroom puree . ... 661 gibelotte of 661 gibelotte of, Parrnentier 662 Hunter's style , ... . 660 jugged with blood 660 pie with fine herbs 714 roasted and larded (Fig. 403) 660 Valencia style 659 wild, backs broiled 662 Radishes, black and red (Fig. 209) 363 Rail a la Mareille, roasted and broiled. . . 662 Raise, pare and poach breasts of poultry and game, to 209 Raisins and currants, to clean Smyrna and Malaga 210 Ramekins 868 Rarebits, Golden buck, Welsh rarebit a la Cutting or Yorkshire 389 Ravioles (Figs. 85, 86, 87) 210 a la Bellini 869 Greek 537 of beef, chicken and veal, different forcemeats for 193 Red snapper a la Cherot 453 a la Crequy 453 a la Demidoff 453 a la Mobile ... .... 454 a la Princess 454 Reduce and strain sauces through a tam- my, to (Fig. 88) 210 Reed birds, broiled 662 croustade of 686 roasted (Fig. 404) 662 Rhubarb with cream (see pie) 924 Ribs Of Beef a la Bourgeoise 733 hot (see beef) 476 in Bellevue 733 Rice a la Manhattan, lean 869 Creole 457 croquettes, with salpicon 865 PAGE. Rice for croustades and with cream 211 Indian 596 Mirabeau 926 Oriental style 869 to blanch 170 with apples 905 with apricots 927 with cream and raspberries (Fig. 594) 927 with strawberries 927 Risot a la Francatelli 869 a la Ristori 869 with Piedmontese truffles 869 Rissoles a la Demidoff 390 beef 390 brain, Princeton (Fig. 234) 389 chicken 889 chicken forcemeat 390 crawfish a la Beatrice 390 fat livers a la Ude 390 fish forcemeat 390 game 390 lamb 390 mushroom and marrow 390 partridge a la Waddington 391 red tongue 391 sweetbreads 391 to prepare (Figs. 89, 90) 211 veal palate 39G with almond cream 905 with preserves 905 Rissolettes 391 a la Pompadour 391 a la Renan 391 a la Solferino 391 oysters a la Pompadour . 415 Roebuck, epigrammes, marinade sauce with truffles 667 fillets a la Lorenzo 667 haunch or quarter, a la Bouchard. . . . 667 haunch or quarter, a la Lytton 667 leg of, a la Francatelli (Fig. 405) 668 Rolls, small 363 with chicken 363 with crawfish 363 with foies-gras 363 with lobster 363 with rillettes de Tour 363 with salpicon 363 with shrimp 363 with sole, fillets 363 Romanic (cos lettuce) a la Rudini stuffed 840 Roots, to cut with a spoon or a vegetable cutter (Figs. 91, 92) 211 Ron \, blond and brown 212 Rum, flavored with vanilla, spirit of straw- berries, raspberries and apricots. . 212 Rump of Beef (see beef) 478 a la mode 733 Sabayon for puddings 900 of chicken or game 286 Salads (cooked) asparagus 803 bagration 803 THE EPICUREAN". PAGE. { Salads (cooked) beef, with tomatoes 803 capon, a la Mortimer 803 chicken, American style 804 chicken, mayonnaise 804 chicken, with vegetables (Fig. 538) . . 804 crab 805 crawfish, a la Maintenon (Fig. 539).. . 805 crawfish, with jelly (Fig. 540) 805 dressings or seasonings 803 dressings, Chili vinegar 803 dressings, Tarragon vinegar 803 fish 806 frog 806 herring, with potatoes 806 Imperial 807 Italian 807 Japanese 807 lamb, a la Somer 807 lobster, American style, or spiny lob- ster 807 Mazarin 808 Mignon 804 Mirabeau 808 Norwegian 808 oyster 808 Parisian 808 Russian 809 Russian, for Lenten dinners 809 salmon 808 shrimp 809 Salads (green) chicory 812 corn or lamb's lettuce 812 cos lettuce 813 dandelion 812 escarole and endive 812 lettuce and anchovies 813 lettuce, plain 812 Monk's beard 813 Romaine (cos lettuce) 813 water-cress and apple, and nonpareil 813 Salads (cooked vegetable), cardoon 809 cauliflower, mayonnaise 809 celery 809 macedoine 810 okra and sweet pepper 810 potato and beetroot 810 potato and herring 810 potato, hot 810 potato, in border with truffles 810 oyster plant 810 string bean 81 1 white bean 811 Salads (raw vegetable), cabbage, white or red 811 - celery 811 celery knob 8ll cucumber 811 cucumber and tomato 811 cucumber, English 811 egg-plant, Provengal , 811 < ierman, with croutons 811 PAGE. Salads (raw vegetable) onion, Bermuda 813 tomato 812 truffle, a la Gambetta 812 Salmis, canvasback ducks 640 Mallard ducks with Madeira 641 partridges t . 649 partridges 786 pheasants a la Lorenzo 653 plovers (yellow leg) a la Duclair 656 quails a la Balzac , 786 quails a la Morisini 658 teal ducks a la Harrison 643 woodcock a la Baumont 672 woodcock a la Sandford 673 Salmon, a 1'Argentine. 454 a la d'Artois fillets 454 a la Avelane (Fig. 525) 788 a la Courbet 790 a la Daumont 455 a la Destaing 788 a la Duperre darne 455 a la Farragut 788 a la moderne . 455 a la moderne on socle (Fig. 526). . , , 789 a la Regence on socle 789 a la Seymour. .. 790 a la Victoria 455 broiled slices, Bearnaise sauce 456 Darne, decorated (Fig. 522) 786 description (Fig. 297) 454 French style (Fig. 298) 455 marinade sauce 456 quarter Genevoise sauce (Fig. 299). 456 quenelles, stuffed (Fig. 434) 705 Russian style 790 salted, a la Bedlow 456 sliced and decorated (Fig. 523) 787 sliced, with jelly (Fig. 524) 787 smoked, American style 457 Venetian style 790 with Montpellier or Cambridge butter 790 with Sauterne wine 363 Salpicon (see garnishings) 349 chicken, baked ,,...... 706 how to prepare 213 Salsify or oyster plant a la poulette, sauted or fried 840 Salt hams, to 175 Sandwiches (Figs. 210, 211, 212) 363 Barlow 364 chicken, chopped or in thin slices. . . . 364 different meats 364 game 364 of French rolls. American style and with anchovies 364 Sardels 355 Sardines a la Seville 399 broiled, anchovies fried, and silver fish in papers 457 marinated 865 Sat mat M! pulled sugar , 1033 IJSTDKX. 1173 PAGE. Sauces (cold) 289 butters (see butters) 320 apple 323 apple, Chantilly with horseradish a la Sanford 323 apple, English style 323 apple, gourmets with horseradish and orange juice 323 apple, Swedish 323 boar 323 chaudfroids, bechamel cream with tomato puree and fecula 323 chaudfroids, blond 324 chaudfroids, brown and game 324 chaudfroids, green 324 chaudfroids, white 324 chicken and game 324 cranberry 324 Cumberland 324 currant or gooseberry, with sugar. . . . 324 currant, with orange 325 fine herbs and shallots with oil 325 green 325 green, Spanish 325 horseradish and cream with oil 325 mayonnaise 325 mayonnaise a la Bayonnaise 325 mayonnaise Cardinal 326 mayonnaise Figaro 326 mayonnaise, green. . 326 mayonnaise mousseline 327 mayonnaise, Printaniere. 326 mayonnaise, Provencal, with sweet peppers 326 mayonnaise ravigote 326 mayonnaise with arrowroot 326 mayonnaise with fine herbs 326 mayonnaise with jelly and jellied. . . . 326 mayonnaise with fruit jelly. 326 mint 327 orange 327 Parisian, for all foods 329 peach or apple marmalade 327 persillade 327 poivrade 327 Polish 327 - raisin.. 327 ravigote or green butter 322 ravigote, with oil 327 remoulade 328 remoulade, Indian style 328 remoulade, vert-pre 328 remoulade, with anchovies 328 remoulade, with fine herbs 328 Rosseberry 328 Rougemont 328 Tartar 328 Tartar, English style 329 tomato catsup 329 vinegar, with fine herbs 329 vinegar, with shallots and mustard . . . 329 Ziska 329 Sauces for cold entremets Bischoff English cream, flavored with vanilla. . frothy , frothy vanilla and rum Sabayon Sauces (hot), African. Allemande, red wine and fruits American anchovy, fat and lean apple, hot with butter and gravy and hot or cold Argentine ... Aurora, fat and lean Barnave Bavaroise Bearnaise, hot mayonnaise and with tomatoes Berchoux Bigarade Bordelaise with marrow Bourguignotte lean bread, American bread, English bread, French bread, German, fried bread, Reglain Bretonne brown English butter caper Cardinal fat and lean Castillane celery champagne and other wines Chateaubriand cherry chervil Chivry chocolate chopped Clermont Colbert Colbert, English and tarragon crab crawfish cream cream, English, flavored with vanilla currant, white currant, with wines curry, Indian curry, with apples. Danish D'Antin deviled Diana D'Orleans duxelle, with cooked fine herbs and truffles egg, English. egg, Polish fennel PAGE. 927 879 876 928 902 900 296 296 296 296 297 297 297 297 297 297 298 298 298 298 299 299 299 299 299 299 526 299 299 299 300 300 300 300 300 300 301 904 316 301 301 301 301 301 301 876 302 302 302 302 302 302 303 303 311 303 303 303 303 1174 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. Sauces (hot) Financiere with game and chicken fat or lean 303 Finnoise 304 Flavignan 304 Fleurette 341 French 304 Gascogne 304 Gascogne with tomatoes 304 Genevoise 304 Genoese 304 gooseberry 305 gourmets 305 green 305 green Hollandaise 305 Grimod 305 ham 305 Harlequin 305 Hollandaise 305 Hollandaise, modern 310 Hollandaise mousseline 305 horseradish, bechamel 306 horseradish, with bread-crumbs 306 horseradish, with cream 306 Hungarian 306 Hunter's Chasseur 306 Huntress 306 Hussarde 307 Indian 307 Italian 307 Juvigny 307 Laguipierre 307 La Valliere 318 Lithuanian 307 lobster 307 lobster, with lobster butter 308 lobster, with Madeira wine 308 Lomb-irde 308 Lucullus 308 Lyonnese, with tarragon .... 308 Madeira wine 308 maitre-d'botel, thickened 308 maitre-d'hotel, with marrow 298 Mantaise 308 Marceau 309 Marinade 309 Mariniere 309 Marsala wine 308 Matelotte 309 mayonnaise 297 Milanese 309 Mirabeau 309 Montebello 310 Montigny 310 Mornay 310 mushroom 310 mussel 310 Neapolitan 310 Nonpareil 311 Normande 311 olive, stuffed or not stuffed 311 orange 311 Sauces (hot) oyster Palermitaine Parisian parsley pluche Perigord Perigueux pickle Piedmontese Pignola, Italian style Pimentade Poivrade, fat, lean, brown or white. Poivrade for sauces Polish Pompadour Portuguese poulette Princess Printaniere Provencal, fat or lean Queen Ravigote, aromatic Ravigote, green Printaniere Ravigote, white with oil Regence Robert Roman Russian Salmis, champagne and truffles Salmis, red wine Salmis, white wine shal lot shallot gravy shallot, with marrow sharp sharp, with capers and onion puree. sherry wine shrimp shrimp and cream shrimp and crab Sicilian Soubise sour Soya Supreme tarragon tomato tomato, Andalouse tomato, Conde tomato, extract tomato, Parisienne truffle turtle, fat and lean Valois Venetian venison Victoria Viennese Villars Villeroi Westphalian white, English, and without butter. PAGE 311 311 312 300 312 312 312 312 312 312 313 313 313 313 313 313 313 317 314 314 314 314 314 314 315 315 315 315 315 315 315 315 559 316 316 308 316 316 316 316 316 317 317 317 317 317 317 317 310 317 318 318 318 319 319 319 319 319 319 319 319 1175 PAGE. Sauces (hot) York 320 Zuchetti 320 Sauces (stocks, essences, etc.) 289 Allemande 292 Allemande, with mushroom essence. . 292 bechamel 293 bechamel, chicken 293 bechamel, lean, with cream 293 bechamel, with mushroom essence. . . 293 brown, Espagnole or Spanish 294 duxelle or cooked fine herbs 289 essences and f umet 289 essence of chicken 289 essence of fish 289 essence of game 289 essence of ham 289 essence of hot aspic 290 essence of mushrooom 290 essence of root 290 essence of tame or wild duck .... 290 essence of truffle 290 fine herbs, raw 290 f umet of partridge or other game 290 glaze, chicken or game 290 glaze, fish 291 glaze, clear half 291 glaze, meat, clear 291 glaze, meat, plain 291 glaze , root , 291 gravy, clear 292 gravy, thick 292 half glaze, thickened and clear 293 Matignon 292 stock, braise, for braising meats 295 stock, brown, Spanish or Espagnole. . 295 stock, fish, for lean Espagnole and veloute 294 stock, mirepoix and dry mirepoix. . . . 295 stock, poeler, for cooking fowl or white game meat 295 stock, veal blond 296 stock, veloute 295 veloute 294 veloute and brown, Espagnole or Spanish, for lean 294 Sauerkraut, garnished 840 Sausages (see pork) 577 smoked, with or without garlic, D'Arles, Lyons, Mortadella (Fig. 213) 365 venison and crepine 685 Saute meats, to 173 Savarin a la Valence 942 small 954 with apricots 906 Scald, to 213 Scallops (St. Jacques shells) (Fig. 277) ... 418 a la Brestoise 418 a la Havraise (Fig. 278) 418 a la Mariniere 418 on toast, baked 419 PAGE. Scallops, Orly 419 Parisian style 419 with eggs and bread-crumbs 419 with milk and flour 419 Scotch Haggis 542 Sea kale 823 SerYice for table, wines, etc 1 Shad a la Creole, Creole rice 457 a la Evers, garnished with shad roe shells 458 broiled, ravigote butter (Fig. 300) 457 Brussels style 458 Irish style, garnished with shad roe croquettes 458 planked, ravigote butter 458 with sorrel puree and sorrel leaves. . . 458 Sheep's ears, Westphalian 536 tails with olives 545 tongues, ecarlate, with spinach 546 tongues, Neapolitan style 546 trotters a la poulette 546 trotters a la vinaigrette 546 Sheepshead a la bechamel 459 a la Bourguignonne 459 a la Buena Vista 459 a la Meissonier 459 Cardinal sauce 459 sliced with jelly 790 with thickened court-bouillon 460 Shells, Benoiton . . 706 beef palates a la Mariniere 707 brains 709 capon with jelly 791 chicken a la Shaw 707 chicken or sweetbreads 708 filled with crawfish tails (Fig. 437). . . 707 filled with shrimps and oyster crabs (Fig. 438) 707 fish 708 frogs : . . 708 lobster 708 mussels or oysters, baked 708 oysters a la Villa 706 oysters baked in their natural shells. 708 oysters in their natural shells 709 oysters roasted in their natural shells 709 oysters roasted, English style 709 oysters with fried bread, in their shells 709 perch 791 red snapper 791 scallops, Parisian style 709 shad roe 458 spinal marrow 709 squabs, baked 709 sweetbreads, veal or lamb, a la Harper 710 terrapin with hazel-nuts 710 Sherbets and punches (see ices) 1000 Sherry and bitters 1065 Shrimps (Fig. 279) 419 fried 419 in side dishes r * <. . 365 1176 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. Shrimps with tomatoed Bearnaise 419 with mushrooms 419 Short loin of beef (see beef) 481 Side dishes, cold 355 hot 368 Sieve cloth of different size meshes (Figs. 93to 98) 213 Silver fish in papers 457 Sirloin of beef (see beef) 482 Skate a la Lechartier 460 with hazel-nut or black butter 460 Skewers or hatelets for hot meats, etc., (Fig. 11) 172 in Bellevue and others, for cold meats etc. (Figs. 501 to 507) 765 of chicken livers, Colbert sauce 678 of lampreys, marinade sauce 678 Sliced and buttered rye or white bread. . . 365 and rolled bread 365 Smelts a 1'Alexandria. 460 a la Gondoliere 460 a la Norfolk 461 diplomatic 461 fried on skewers, tartar truffle saace. 461 in Dauphin a la Hamlin 461 marinated 865 Smoked beef 365 breast of goose 365 salmon 365 sturgeon 365 tongue 365 Smother meats, to 173 Snails (see edible snails) (Fig. 270) 405 Snipe, African style 663 a la Montaland 663 ala Waleski 663 baked 663 broiled 663 English (Fig. 393) 639 in papers 663 roasted 664 stuffed, Bordelaise 664 sand, roasted, with water-cress 664 Socles and ornaments (Figs. 527 to 530). . . 791 Soles a la Colbert fried 461 ala Lutece 462 ala Normande 462 a la Rochelaise 463 a la Trouville 463 baked, Italian style 463 fillets, a la Marguery 462 fillets, a la Mazagran (Fig. 531) 793 fillets, a la Richelieu 462 fillets, stuffed 463 fillets, Venetian style 463 fried 463 timbale of fillets of, a la Gauloise. . . . 716 Sorrel with gravy 840 Souffle" of chicken (Figs. 439, 440) 710 of chicken a la Delsart 710 chestnuts with vanilla 906 chocolate 906 PAGE. Souffle*, creamy, with cheese 870 fat livers with truffles 710 game a la Lucie 7H in cases with vanilla or orange small (Figs. 584, 585; 906 lobster in cases 711 partridge a la Haggins 711 pheasant a la Andrew 711 rice with maraschino 906 with Parmesan cheese 870 with raspberries 907 with Swiss cheese 870 with Swiss and Parmesan cheese in cases 870 woodcocks with truffles 711 Soups (plate) 239 broths, care to be taken while prepar- ing 240 broths, clear, bouillon 240 broths, white, chicken bouillon 241 consomme, clarified 241 consomme, chicken, clarified 241 consomme, fish, clarified 241 consomme, game, clarified 242 consomme, vegetable, clarified for Lent 242 fat, albumen, bones 239 fibrine, gelatine and osmazome 240 parts of beef for preparing bouillons and stocks 242 stock of beef or broth 242 game, vegetable, fish and chicken stock for thick soups 243 thickenings for 218 Soups (bisques) 243 crabs 243 crabs a la Stevens 243 crabs, Oriental 244 crawfish 244 crawfish a la Bateliere 244 crawfish a la Humboldt 245 crawfish a la Persigny 245 lobster 245 lobster a la Benoist 245 lobster a la Cambridge 245 lobster a la Portland, lobster que- elles 246 or puree of clams a la Hendrick 243 or puree of mussels a la Cutting 246 or puree of oysters a la Wilson 246 shrimps a la Melville 247 shrimps a la Veragua 247 shrimps, Bretonne 247 Soups (consomme"), Adelina 248 Andalouse 248 Antonelli, lean or fat 248 Balzac, chicken, shrimp and green pea timbales 248 Bariatenski 249 Berry 249 Britannia 249 Careme. lean or fat 249 INDEX. 1177 PAGE. Soups (consomme") Celestine 249 Channel 250 Colbert, with poached eggs 250 Comus 250 creani of pheasants or game 250 Daumont 250 Dubarry 251 Duchess 251 Florentine 251 Franklyn 251 garnishings of 247 Grammont 252 Hongroise 252 Imperatrice 251 Laguipierre 252 Noailles , 252 Plumerey 252 Printaniere, with quenelles 253 Remusat 253 Royale 253 Sevigne . . 253 Souveraine 253 with Chinese birds' nests 254 with swallows' nests 254 Soups (cream) 254 artichokes, Morlaisian 254 asparagus a la St. Vallier 254 asparagus, with croutons, souffles or asparagus tops 255 barley, Vienna style 255 ' Brussels sprouts , 255 carrots, with Compiegne croutons. . . . 258 cauliflower, Brisson 255 celery or cardoons a la Livingstone, marrow quenelles 256 chiffonade, with crusts 256 cucumber a la Sheppard ... 256 green corn a la Hermann 256 green corn a la Mendocino 256 Jerusalem artichokes 257 leeus, with quenelles 256 lettuce, romaine or chicory, a la Evers 257 lima, kidney or horse beans 257 peas a la St. Germain 257 peas, with mint 257 rice a la Cremieux 255 sorrel, with stuffed eggs 258 squash 258 string beans a la Vefour 258 sweet potatoes a la Gerard 258 turnips 258 vegetable a la Banville 259 Soups (purge), capon a la Jussienne 259 carrots a la Crecy 259 chicken a la Dufferin 259 chicken a la Reine 260 English snipe 260 grouse a la Manhattan 260 lentils, Chantilly 260 leveret or young rabbit, St. James. . . 260 PAGE. Soaps (purge) oatmeal, Toulousaine. . 261 partridge or quails a la D'Henin 261 pigeons or wild squabs a la Waleski.. 261 potatoes a la Benton 261 plover 260 pullet or Guinea fowl a la Wash- burn 263 red beans a la Conde 262 reed birds or larks with chestnuts. . . . 262 split peas with croutons or rice 262 to strain (Figs 99, 99a, 99b) 215 wild ducks, canvasback, redhead or Mallard a la Van Buren 262 wild turkey a la Sartiges 263 woodcock a la Theo 260 Soups (varied), barley, with celery 263 barsch, Polish style , 263 Bennett 264 Benoiton 264 Bouillabaisse 264 Bragance 265 Brunoise, with quenelles 265 cabbage 265 calf's feet, English style 265 calf's tail a la Rundell 266 cassava and gluten 271 Chamberlain 266 Champetre 266 Chartreuse 266 chicken and leek 266 chicken okra 267 chowder, of clams 267 chowder of fresh and salt water fish a la Stebens 267 cold, Russian style, Kwass 268 crab and shrimp, a la Loubat 268 crawfish, a la Renommee 268 Croute au pot 268 D'Osmont 269 Faubonne 271 Fermiere style 269 fish, a la Ponsardin 269 frog, with timbales 269 garbure with lettuce 270 giblet, a la Reglain 270 gnocquis, a la Pagioli 270 gumbo or okra with hard crabs, Creole style 270 gumbo with soft shell crabs 271 Hunter's style 271 Japanese or Nizam pearls 271 Jerome, with sweet potato quenelles. 271 Julienne 271 Julienne Faubonne 271 Julienne Mogul 271 knuckle of veal a la Briand 272 lamb or veal sweetbread, German style 272 lobster and crawfish, Duke Alexis . . 273 Menestrone Milanese 273 .{. manioc 271 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. Soups (varied) Marshall 273 Meissonier 273 Mogul 271 Monteille 273 Montorgueil 274 Mullagatawny, Indian style 274 mussel, a la Vigo 274 mutton, a la Cowley 274 mutton hocbepot 274 noodle, with Parmesan cheese 275 noques or quenef es 282 onion, with Parmesan cheese, browned and thickened 275 oxtail, a la Soyer 275 oyster, a la Cruyst 276 oyster, American style 275 oyster, French style 276 oyster, with powdered okra or gumbo 276 oyster, with oyster ravioles 276 partridge, a la Royale 276 pastes, Florence snow 277 pastes, Lasagnes 277 pastes, Lasagnettes 277 pastes, macaroni 277 pastes, macaroncelli 277 pastes, paillettes 277 pastes, spaghetti 277 pastes, tagliarelli 277 pastes, vermicelli <, 277 Paterson 277 Pilau, Turkish style 277 pot-au-feu 277 raviole and pearl , 283 rice, a la Rudini 278 sagoorsalep 271 semolina .... 271 Sherman , 278 shrimp, mignon 278 small individual soup- pots (Fig. 198). 279 sorrel 279 sorrel with herbs and Flemish style. . 279 spaghetti with cream 279 Spanish Oilla 280 tapioca 271 terrapin, clear, thick or white 280 turtle, dried, thick or clear 280 turtle, green, clear a la royal, or thick with marrow quenelles 281 turtle, mock, clear, calf's head 281 turtle, mock, thickened. 282 turtle, to prepare one weighing one hundred pounds 281 velvet 282 Westmoreland 282 woodcock 283 &raps and preparations for invalids. . 283 arrowroot, Indian 283 Bavaroise 283 beeljiiice 286 ~ b*oth, chicken and mutton, with barley 283 . PAGE. Soups and preparations for invalids broth, chicken and veal 283 broth, chicken, plain 283 broth, clam and puree 284 broth, fish, with clams 284 broth, frog and puree 284 broth, herb 285 broth, mutton 285 broth, veal, refreshing 286 broth, wheat, oats or barley 287 custard cream of chicken or game. . . . 284 extract of beef, plain 284 jelly, chicken and calf's feet 285 jelly, meat and calf's feet. 285 mulled egg and almond milk with rice flour 285 puree of barley with chicken broth. . . 286 puree of chicken 286 puree of grouse 286 puree of oatmeal or wheaten grits. . . . 286 puree of partridge 286 puree of roebuck 286 sabayon of chicken or game 286 tea, beef 286 tea, chicken 286 tea, mutton 286 veal 286 Spaghetti macaroni a la Laurence 867 a la Lucini 867 a la Prati 867 Queen style 867 Salvini 868 Spices, aromatics and seasonings for cook- ing purposes 213 Spin sugar by throwing, to 1035 Spinach a la Noailles 841 a la Rougemont 841 English style 841 with bechamel sauce 841 with cream 841 Spinal marrow (see veal) 522 Sponge cake (see cakes) . 942 Spotted-fish a la Livournaise 464 English style fillets 464 mussel sauce whole 464 Queen sauce fillets 464 with court-bouillon, Calcutta 464 with green ravigote sauce , . . 464 Squabs a la Briand 626 a la Carolina 629 a la Crispi 626 a la Flourens 627 a 1'Iin prompt u sauted 627 a la Stanislas stuffed 627 a la Vestal 629 American style stuffed 627 ballotines a la Madison (Figs. 452, 453) 730 breasts a la Duxelle 629 broiled, Colbert sauce 627 Crapaudine (Fig. 384) 626 cutlets (see cutlets) 688 INDEX. 1179 PAGE. Squabs, English style 627 fritters, Oporto sauce 629 - in earthernware saucepan or stuffed roasted 628 New York style 628 or wild pigeons, poupeton, Ancient style 654 with Figaro sauce fried 628 with tarragon 628 Squash (marrow) with Parmesan 841 Steaks (see beef) 484 Stearine, how to cast and color 214 Stewed apples with jelly 1056 bananas 1056 cherries 1056 chestnuts 1056 oranges 1056 peaches or apricots 1057 pears 1057 pineapple 1057 prunes 1057 raspberries 1057 strawberries 1057 Stock, white, for meats and vegetables. . . . 221 Strasburg liver pie (Fig. 519) 782 Strawberries and raspberries stewed... 1057 Strawberry juice 1052 Straw cheese 366 String beans a 1' Albani 841 a la Bourguignonne 842 a la Pettit 842 marinated 366 smothered 842 with butter 842 Sturgeon fricandeau, with sorrel or green peas. ... 465 or sterlet, Livonienne small 794 or sterlet, with quenelles and olives small .... 465 Succotash 825 Suckling: pig a la Piedmontese 578 boned 758 roasted on the spit or stuffed 579 salted and smoked, with sauerkraut. . 579 Suedoise of apples and pears 927 Sugar flavored with vanilla 905 for casting in molds 1035 Mocha 939 of different colors and icing sugar. . . 217 satinated pulled 1033 to cook ... 216 to spin by throwing 1035 Surprise of fruits, frothy sauce 928 Surtout of chicken livers with mushrooms, or in rice border with curry 712 of chicken livers with mushrooms... 712 wild pigeons baked 712 Sweetbreads, lamb (see lamb) 565 veal, a la Binda (paillettes) 522 veal, a la Bussy 522 veal, a la Columbus 522 veal, a la Conti 523 Sweetbreads, veal, a 1'Ecarlate. . . veal, a 1'Eugenie veal, a la La Valliere a la Mirabeau a la Maltese a la Marsilly a la Montebello a la Montpensier a la Princesse a la St. Cloud a la St. Laurent a la Theodora (Fig. 331) veal, veal, veal, veal, veal, veal, veal, veal, veal, au Chancelier , 525 au Monarch 526 cutlets (see cutlets) 689 English style, brown English sauce. . 526 escalops, a la Careme 692 fritters, cream sauce 526 iu papers 526 larded and glazed with cepes Borde- laise 526 larded and glazed with gravy (Fig. 332) 527 Neapolitan style 524 Parisian style 527 Piedmontese style 525 Portuguese style 525 Spanish style 527 way to prepare 522 with quenelles 527 Zurich 527 Sweet entremets 873 Sweet potatoes (see potatoes) 842 Syrup of apples 908 Tagliatelli in croustade 870 Tails, lamb, Conti 566 Tart, band (Fig. 100) 217 (see pies) 712 Conde 928 empty, Ancient style (Fig. 101) 217 pigeon, a la Britannia 714 Tartlets, alinondine 955 apple 955 Bordelaise 955 cherry 955 Colombia 955 Deuionet 956 Fanchonettes, meringued 956 game, lobster, salmon or nonpareil.. 366 Herisson 956 peach, with rice 956 pelerine 956 sour apple 955 Valencia 956 variegated fruit 956 Tea 1060 beef, mutton, chicken or veal 286 Russian 1059 (see beef) 488 Tenderloin of beet a la Bouquetiere .... 734 a la Evers 734 a la Lucullus (Fig. 455) ... = ... 734 1180 THE PAGE. Tenderloin of beef a la Noailles 735 a la Violetta 735 Grenadins Rocbambeau 736 witb croustades, Macedoine 736 witb vegetables, mayonnaise (Fig. 456) ." 736 Terrapin (Fig. 280) 420 a la Baltimore (Fig. 282, 283) 423 a la Crisfield 424 a la Delmonico 424 a la Maryland 424 a la Newburg 424 a la Pbiladelpbia 424 a la Trenton 425 Ancient style 424 cutlets and croquettes, cream sauce. . 424 Epicurean style ..... 425 Maryland Club 424 stewed, witb Madeira wine 425 to prepare and cook 423 to select, keep, table and price list (Fig. 281) 420 Terrine of duck's liver a 1'Aquitaine 794 of foies-gras in aspic wbole (Fig. 447) 724 of bam, kernel 794 of bare 795 of larks 795 of Nerac 795 of plovers and larks 795 of pork liver 796 of pork liver, or pie 777 of snipe 796 of wild rabbits 796 Thickenings for soups, sauces and stews 218 Thrushes a la Bianca 664 Andrieux 664 and robins, roasted and broiled 665 baked 665 in the saucepan 665 on croustades 686 Timbale a la Figaro 907 a la Nantaise (Fig. 441) 715 cbicken, Parisian style large (Fig. 442) 715 crusts, to line and bake 218 fillets of soles a la Gauloise, Milanese macaroni croquettes 716 for epicures (Fig. 443) 715 gnocquis a la Cboiseul 870 lobster a la D'Aumale 716 Milanese (macaroni or noodles) (Fig. 571) '. 871 noodles a la Pearsall 871 pbeasants, with truffles (Fig. 532) 797 pullet 716 squabs a la Bercboux 717 sweetbreads, modern, large 717 truffles a la Perigord. 845 waffles 928 - young bare 717 PAGE. Timbales, remarks on 392 - Beaumarchais (Fig. 235) 392 Benton (Fig. 236) 392 Calaisienne (Fig. 237) 392 Chevaliere (Fig. 238) 392 chicory 825 Duchess (Fig. 239) 393 - Dumas (Fig. 240) 393 frog 269 for gourmets (Fig. 241) 393 Harlequin (Fig. 242) 393 Imperial (Fig. 243) 394 Irving (Fig. 244) 394 Lagardere (Fig. 245) 394 - La Valliere (Fig. 246) 394 Lombardy (Fig. 247) 395 Marly (Fig. 248) 395 Massilon sweet 928 Mentana (Fig. 249) 395 Montgomery (Fig. 250) 895 Mosaic (Fig. 251) 396 Neapolitan (Fig. 252) 396 Palermitaine (Fig. 253) 396 Perigordine (Fig. 254) 396 Princess (Fig. 255) 396 Renaissance (Fig. 256) 397 Ristori (Fig. 257) 397 Rothschild (Fig. 258) 397 Sartiges (Fig. 259) 397 Scotch (Fig. 260) 397 Soubise (Fig. 261) 398 Soyer (Fig. 262) 398 Talleyrand (Fig. 263) 398 Venetian (Fig. 264). . . , . 398 with red beef tongue (Fig. 265) 398 Toasts a la Waddington 366 dry, buttered, dipped in water, milk or cream 947 Florentine 398 garnished with bacon 366 garnished with chicken 366 garnished with chopped chicken 366 garnished with peppers 366 with oil and cheese 399 with sardines a la Seville 399 Tomatoes a la Boquillon 843 a la Frossart 843 a la Gibbons, sauted and fried 844 a la Trevise 843 baked ... 843 broiled, hot mayonnaise sauce 843 Greek style, stuffed 479 in cases baked 843 Provencal style, stuffed 843 Queen style 844 small, stuffed 497 stuffed with fresh mushrooms 844 Tongue, beef (see beef) 504 a la Rochefort (Fig. 533) 797 Arcade (Fig. 534) 798 red and smoked 366 red, smoked 798 IJSTDKX. 1181 PAGE. Tongue, red, with jelly 798 ' calf's (see calf) 528 calf's a la uiacedoine 799 cod's, with chopped sauce or black butter 436 lamb's, with olives 566 - pig's, Provencal style 580 sheep (see sheep) 546 Tournedos (see beef) , 496 Tourte of beef palate, Parisian style 718 of chicken 718 of fillets of soles a la Financiere (Fig. 444) 718 Triangle for dressing tongues, etc. (Fig. 10) 172 Tripe a la mode de Caen 505 a la poulette with mushrooms 505 a la tartare 505 baked, with Parmesan cheese 506 Lyonnaise 506 Parisian style 506 paupiettes 506 with cooked fine herbs 506 Trotters a la Bordelaise 566 a la Wenberg 566 a la Chantilly 567 a la Didier 567 a la poulette 567 with tarragon gravy stuffed and broiled 567 Trout a la Beaufort (Fig. 801) 465 a la Cainbaceres 466 a la Carfime, brook 799 a la Hoteliere 466 a la Hussarde 466 a la Joan of Arc 466 a la Meuniere 466 a la Montagnarde 466 au bleu small 466 cooked in court-bouillon and served with different sauces 467 fried small 467 Lausanne style 467 marinated and fried 367 marinated in wine small 367 stuffed 467 salmon, a 1'Antoinette 467 salmon, vol-au-vent of, a la Regence. 721 with jelly, tartar sauce (Fig. 535). . . 799 Truffle decorations (Fig. 485) 753 Truffles 367 in a napkin or in a croustade (Fig. 557) 844 in shells baked 845 stuffed 845 timbale a la Perigord 845 to brush and peel 219 Truss, singe and dress poultry and game for entrees (Figs. 102, 103, 104). . . 219 singe and dress poultry and game for roasting (Figs. 105 to 111) 219 lish, sardines, gurnet and accola in oil 367 PAGE. Tunny fish or horse mackerel, fried, with arrowroot mayonnaise sauce.-. . . . 468 Turban of flukes or smelts, streaked fil- lets 7;9 of lobster, garnished with shells , , , 719 Turbot a la remoulade . 800 Canadian, a la d'Orleans 468 Canadian, a la Houston . t , 468 Canadian, a la Mercier c , . 468 English, with caper sauce 468 or red snapper, marinated 367 Turkey a la Chipolata stuffed 629 a la Delagrange wild stuffed 630 a la Financiere larded (Fig. 385). ... 630 a la Sartiges studded (Fig. 386) 630 a la Stevens 800 American style roasted 631 boned, a la Berger (Fig. 490) 758 breasts or fillets, a la Donovan 633 breasts, Gustave Dore 801 French style (Fig. 387) 631 giblets a la Salmander 632 giblets, peasant style 632 gobbler stuffed with chestnuts 634 grenades a la Jules Verne c 633 hen ; 629 in Daube a la Verneuil (Fig. 536) 800 legs with noodles, Milanese 633 or goose in Daube 801 spring, paupiettes of, Souvenir (Fig. 388) 635 spring, puree of artichokes larded and roasted 634 spring, wings or breasts, with turnips 635 spring, with water-cress roasted or broiled 635 truffled and garnished with black olives 632 wings, fricasseed and baked 633 wings, with celery and chestnuts. . . . 634 wings, with risot stuffed 634 with cepes 631 with white oyster sauce 632 Turnips, glazed 845 mashed 540 Teltow, with Chestnuts 846 with Spanish, bechamel or alleinande sauce 845 Turtle (Fig. 284) 425 green, baked small 426 Havana style 426 stewed, a la Foster 426 Udder, veal 197 Utensils for kitchen use (Figs. 115 to 197). 223 Varenikis, Polish 399 Veal, brains (see brains) 507 breast a la Bourdaloue 508 breast a la Menagere 510 breast a la Mondoux 508 breast au gastronome 508 breast blanquette a la Jacquart .510 breast stewed with roux , . 510 1182 THE EPICUREAN. PAGE. Veal, breast, stuffed, with tomatoes, Queen style 510 crow a la Normande 510 cutlets (see cutlets) 511 cuts, American, whole (Fig. 322) 509 cuts, half (Fig. 323) 509 ears, stuffed, tomato sauce 512 feet, American style 513 fillet, grenadins, tomatoed, Argentine sauce 513 fillet minced, Portuguese 513 fillet minions, puree of artichokes. . . . 513 fillet minions, with mushrooms (Fig. 327) 513 fillet paupiettes a la Whittier 514 fillet sliced with Pelerine potatoes . . . 515 head (see calf) 515 kernel a la Duchess 516 kernel escalops a la Arnold 692 kernel in aspic with macedoine arti- chokes 728 kernel with half glaze 517 kernel with Macedoine, small kernels or nuts 517 kernel with Mayonnaise tomatoed sauce 767 kernel with thickened gravy (Fig. 829) 516 kidneys (see kidneys) 517 leg or haunch a la Miribel 518 lights a la Mariniere 518 liver (see calf) 518 loin a 1'Ambassade 519 loin a la Printaniere. . . . 519 loin a la Saintonge 519 loin, with gravy 519 neck of, au blanc 520 palates a la Sevigne 520 palates, Epicurean style 520 quarter, Scotch style. 520 rack a 1'Albani 520 round bottom fricandeau, glazed with gravy. . 520 round bottom, minced, Sicilian 521 saddle, larded, chopped lettuce (Fig. 330) 521 shoulder a la Bourguignotte 521 slice of round, with gravy 521 Schnitzel, German style 514 Schnitzel, Vienna style 514 spinal marrow, a la Barnave 522 spinal marrow, a la Villeroi 522 sweetbreads (see sweetbreads) 522 tails, with cabbage 528 tendon or gristle, a la Bayeux 528 tendon or gristle, a la Biarritz 528 tongues a la Flamande . . 528 tongues a la Perigueux (Fig. 333). . . . 528 tongues, to salt 528 udder 197 Vegetables (Fig. 541) 815 to blanch . 170 PAGE. Vegetable colors 181 Venison, antelope, deer, remarks on 665 cherry sauce loin of deer ... 665 Colbert sauce rack, roasted 666 cutlets a la Buridan 666 cutlets a la Cauchoise 666 cutlets a la Financiere. 666 cutlets, deviled 666 cutlets, tomato Parisian sauce 666 cutlets with chestnut puree 666 epigrammes of roebuck, marinade sauce with truffles 667 jugged 667 kernel, slices a la Hussarde 668 kernel, slices in papers 668 minced 668 roebuck (see roebuck) 667 saddle, a 1'Athalin 069 saddle, a la Harder 785 saddle, a la MacMahon 669 saddle, a la Morton 669 aigrrelette sauce larded 669 saddle, breaded, black cherry sauce. . 670 saddle, gastronome 670 saddle, Huntress style antelope 668 saddle, port wine sauce and currant jelly 670 saddle, roasted (Fig. 406) 670 saddle, Tyrolese style 669 tenderloin, grenadins a la Royal 670 tenderloin, noisettes a la Thierry .... 670 tenderloin tournedos, St. Hubert 671 Violets, candied 1049 jelly (Fig. 591) 920 Vol-au-vent crust (Fig. 112) 221 crust in two pieces (Figs.113, 114) . . . 221 Vol-au-vent (large) a la Dieppoise 719 a la Financiere (Fig. 445) 719 a la Nesle 720 Ancient style 720 chicken, with mushrooms 720 codfish, salt 720 frogs and Soubise eggs 720 oysters 720 Vol-au-vent (small) a la Delmontes 721 a la Lucini 721 oysters a la Maintenon 721 Parisian style 721 reedbirds, Diplomate 721 salmon trout a la Regence 721 Voliere galantine of pheasants a la Casimir Perrier (Fig. 451) 728 a la Waddington 729 Wafers (see tea cakes) 961 with Curagoa cream, rolled 929 Waffles (see breakfast cakes) 947 brisselets with raspberry cream 929 Walnuts, green 367 pickled, green 367 Water ices (see ices) 1025 Weakflsh a la Brighton 468 a la Pontigny 468 INDEX. 1183 PAGE. { Wells of Love (see cakes) 957 Welsh rarebit, golden buck a la Cutting or Yorkshire 389 White bait, deviled 469 fried 469 Greenwich style 469 Wlliteflsh a la Gerhardi 469 pimentade sauce 469 White stock for meat and vegetables 221 Wild boar's head decorated (Fig. 537) 801 quarter 637 Wild pigeons or squabs, Poupeton, Ancient style 654 Wines, and care of 1061 - basket for serving (Fig. 767). 1062 bottling 1062 clarifying, red and white 1062 decantering 1062 Delmonico's cellar list 1063 placing the casks in the cellar 1061 to freeze champagne (Figs. 768, 769). 1065 Woodcock (Fig. 390) 639 PAGB. Woodcock a laCavour. .., 671 a la Dumas 671 a la Valere 802 breasts a la Diane 671 breasts a la Houston , 671 breasts a la Mancelle 671 breasts a la Vatel (Fig. 407) 672 broiled (Fig. 408) 672 cutlets, Poniatowski (Fig. 483) 750 cutlets, Sarah Bernhardt 751 ruinced 649 mousseline 771 : on canapes a la Perigord ffiZ pie cold 784 pie hot 701 roasted (Fig. 409) 672 salmis a la Beaumont 672 salmis a la Sanford 673 stuffed 673 Zampino, Modena of 765 modern style with string beans 581 Zephyr of rice with pineapple 907 u^- - : g2S gjiaKJB LOANTERIOD! . A Quarter loons are not rene MMfMIill :