/ nwmmMeoeiaagnnnanfsnM y vaaimtimmmKmtmuiaaammmmm mamataammmmmmmam /O ^ AN ISLAND OF THE SEA. DESCRIPTIVE OF THE PAST AND PRESENT OF ST. THOMAS, DANISH WEST INDIES. A FEW SHORT STORIES ABOUT BLUEBEARUS AND BLACKBEARUS CASTLES. BY CHAS. EDWIN TAYLOR, M.D., F.R.G.S., Member of the Colonial Council of St. Thomas and St. John, of the Board of Health and Hos^pital Commission ; Fellow and Honorary Member of various Scientijk and Literary Societies in Europe, Asia, and America. Author of ' ' Leaflets from the Banish West Indies," " Jumhy Hall," ^-c, ^x. yr^ nesiinaies, " oumoy nau ALL RIGHTS RES PUBLISHED BY THE AUTHOR, AT TAYLOR-.S BOOK-STOEE, ST. THOMAS, D. W. I. L O X P O N : ETRE AND SPOTTISWOODE, Her Maje.itii's Printers, DOWXS PARK ROAD, HACKXET, N.E. j Q S LIBRARY " ■ UNIVERSITY OF C.ATTFORNIA 7^2 SANTA BARBARA \7K PREFACE. Of late years tourists are beginning to find tlieir way to the West Indies. Their mild and equable climate, beautiful scenery, the hospitable character of their in- habitants, are thus becoming known ; and as time rolls on, these islands will become as frequented as other routes of travel, recommended as interesting and de- lightful to invalids and pleasure seekers. Most of the steamship lines bringing them call at St. Thomas. It is generally the first glimpse they get of West Indian life, its picturesque town and romantic old towers always exciting their curiosity. Por such as these this book has been written, for in it will be found almost everything that is known about them. Should any- thing be omitted, it is to be hoped that some excuse will be found ; one cannot always particularize, especi- ally where the exact items are wanting. The illustra- tions will, no doubt, recommend themselves. They are reproduced from photographs by our local artists, to whom the thanks of the writer are due for their kind permission to use them. To those who have encouraged him to bring out " An Island of the Sea," he begs to express his grati- tude and sincere appreciation. And now, having got through the most difficult part of his book, he begs to subscribe himself most faithfully, THE AUTHOR. August Slst, 1895. S 3112. -*- '^ PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. rjlHE favourable reception wliicli the first edition of ^~- this work has met with at the hands of an appre- ciative public has induced me to issue a second, with the addition of a few words about St. Croix, " The Garden of the West Indies." This, I trust, will be acceptable to those who desire to know more about these beautiful " Isles of the Sea." There is so much to be said of their attractions, bright spots, and romantic history, that whole volumes might be written about them. If I have not been able to say more of them in this, it must be attributed to the expense which such a work would entail, rather than to any design of mine to leave anything unsaid to their advantage. Some day, perhaps, I may bring out a third and improved edition. This, however, depends upon the approval of my readers. Till then, mth thanks for l)ast favours, I have the honour to sul)scribe myself, THE AUTHOR. St. Thomas, June 1896. a 2 CONTENTS. PART I. PAnE The Past --.._---- 7 PART II. The Present - - - - - - - - -28 PART III. STOKIES OF BLUEBEARD'S AND BLACKBEARD'S CASTLES. " Bluebeard's Casket " - - - - - - - -4-5 " A Remarkable Coincidence " - - - - - - - 59 " Black Ivory " - - - - - - - - -74 " James Teach's Doubloons "' - - - - - - -91 " An Old Colonial Governor " - - - - - - 102 CHARLES EDWIN TAYLOR, M.D. AN ISLAND OF THE SEA. PAET I. THE PAST. I AM going to tell you about " An Island of the Sea," one of those islands that Columbus discovered on his second voyage to the West Indies, in the year 1493. There are many others more populous, more extensive, more richly endowed by Nature, perhaps, but few of them can boast of such a career of pros- perity, the latter part of which is yet within the memory of some of us. And what memories does a voyage on the waters of the Blue Caribbean recall to you. Not an island that you touch at, but reminds you of some deed of valour done by brave seamen, some wild story of the days when " El Draque," * as the Spaniards called him, was the terror of this azure-tinted sea. You read of Jamaica, now prosperous and successful as a great fruit-growing country, sending its luscious products weekly to America; of Trinidad's activity, its wondrous pitch lake, botanical gardens, its yearly exports of millions of pounds of " cocoa " ; of Grenada's fertile valleys, its productions of cotton, spices, and coffee; of St. Vincent, with its Sou f Here, and as the " island of arrowroot " ; of St. Lucia's future pros- pects ; of Dominica's luxuriant vegetation, virgin forests, deep ravines and lofty wooded mountains, its timber and countless natural products ; of Montserrat, with its lime trees and export trade of lime juice ; of Antigua, the puzzle of geologists and the home of important public institutions ; of St. Kitt's and Nevis, with their sugar cultivation, and of the Virgin Islands. And if you are not tired you may read of that ancient colon}^, Barbados, with its enormous population, busy as bees from morn till night, among its lovely plantations or in its bustling city ; of * Sir Francis Drake. 8 AX ISLAXD OF THE SEA. St. Domingo ami Hayti, still struggling in the throes of a despotism perhaps necessary to their progress, or of Cuba, where its natives emulous of their neighbours' independence are arrayed in arms against the SpaniaiNls, l)attling for tlu'ir liberty. Yes ! you may read of all these lovely fertile, smiling islands, where God's precious sunlight kisses their mountain tops nearly every morning of their existence, but in few volumes will you find anything about the " Island of the Sea," of which I have promised to tell you, and which, if smaller than most of them, has none the less left its mark upon the pages of West Indian history. And it is to a little Danish colony I am going to devote a few chapters of this book, colonized by Danes from the beirinninir, the white-crossed, blood-red bainierof the Danne- brog yet floats over it, and seems likely to, if America or German}'', which, more than once have cast longing eyes towards it, do not some day exchange it for their own. And now you may have guessed that my " Island of the Sea," is St. Thomas, once named " The Emporium of the Antilles." In a former work * I have endeavoured to sketch its history. Here it is only possible, briefly to recapitulate and in bringing it up to date, to notice its past and present position, and some of the causes which may have led to its decadence as a com- mercial centre. That this island must have existed far back in the mists of ages, its formation plainly shows. Of the cataclysm, which caused it to spring into existence, we have no information. Amidst volcanic flres, geology tells us, it must have been evolved, and it is quite possible that, some day, it may disappear beneath the ocean under the same conditions. We are pretty sure that the Caribs inhabited it at one time. Numerous stone chisels have been found in different parts of the island, and there are yet some curious carvings on some rocks in the neighbouring island of St. John, which strongly confirm the assertion. What we do know is, that Erik Smidt, the Dane, a7-7-i\-ed at St. Thomas on the morning of the 30th of ]\Iarch 106G, in a ship called " De Endracht," took possession of it for Denmark, landed a small colony, which sufl'ered great privations, and died shortly after his arrival. * " Leaflets from tho Danish "West Indies." AX ISLAND OF THE SEA. 9 Then a Dutch Governor, named Huntum, when the settlement was in sore straits for provisions, landed in force and broke it up. So that the actual history of St. Thomas cannot be said to have commenced before the time that Jorgen Iwersen became its Governor on the 23rd of May 1672, when he came there as chief of an expedition sent out from Copenhagen by the Danish West India and Guinea Company. An idea of his iron-handed rule may be formed from the story of "An Old Colonial Governor," which is to be found within these pages. With "Christian's Fort," completed some time after his arrival, and some 50 estates under cultivation, it may be said that its population of 331 souls, black and white, was fairly prospering, and it was unfortunate, perhaps, that Jorgen Iwersen 's rule came shortly to an end, he being superseded at his own request by one " Nic Esmit," only to be thrown overboard by a mutinous crew on his re-appointment as Governor and return to the island of St. Thomas. Slavery appears already to have existed in the colony, both white and black ; but, encouraged by King Christian V., a great number of negroes were brought from Africa, and the cultiva- tion of sugar was introduced. Four Governors had already ruled St. Thomas, when a violent earthquake took place on a Sunday, the 9th of April, in the year 1690. It cracked the walls of many buildings, and the sea receded so that the fish could be picked up from the bottom, nine or ten fathoms out. It is about this time that we first hear of Bluebeard's Castle, which was then known as Frederik's Fort, built upon Smith's Hill in 1689, by Government. It seems sad to sweep away the halo of romance with which imagination has invested it, but the fact is there, though the pen of fiction has told a score of stories about it and its sister tower, named after Blackboard. Very shortly afterwards the King of Denmark farmed out the island to one George Thormohlen, a little before the Brandenburgh Company had established itself with certain rights and privileges. On the 31st of IMarch 1692 the first regular troops were garrisoned in the island. In those days the colonists objected to taxation, and when asked for the support of the soldiers, 10 AX ISLAND OF THE SEA. they steadily refusL'd. Nor Jo we find tliat it was ever enforced. In 1094 Thormohlen was replaced by De La Vii^ne, who, in his turn, was superseded by Governor Lorentz, under whose rule w^e find the first severe hurricane recorded. This was in 1697. In 1701 Pere Labat visited the island. In his interestinfj^ book on the West Indies * he i^ives a fair picture of St. Thomas. Of its commerce he makes these remarks : — " Denmark beinj]^ almost neutral in the wars of Europe, the port of St. Thomas is open to all nations. During peace it serv^es as an entrepot for the commerce which the French, English, Spaniards and Dutch do not dare to pursue openly on their own islands ; and in time of w^ar, it is the refuge of merchant ships when pursued by privateers. On the other hand, the privateers send their prizes here to be sold when they are not disposed to send them to a greater distance. Many small vessels proceed from St. Thomas to the coast of South America, whence they bring back much riches in the form of specie or in bars and valuable merchandize. In a word, St. Thomas is a market of consequence." Thus w^e see, even at this early period, that prosperity was dawning for this " Island of the Sea." Its geographical position, and its magnificent harbour, though as yet destitute of wharves and those great facilities which, in later years, have made it almost unique in the West Indies, were already giving it a com- mercial importance which belonged to no other island. It is pleasant to look through the pages of the good father, and read his lifelike description of the little town now known as Charlotte Amalia. Consisting of one street only, it followed the contour of the bay, which terminated in the factory or offices of the Company. This was a large and handsome edifice, witli many a])aitim'nts and magazines for the storage of merchandize. Here they secured the slaves, in which a large trade was done with the Spaniards. The houses, which were formerl}'^ nothing but huts, were buih of bricks. He speaks of two small streets to the right of the factory, which were filled with French refugees. He does not tell us where they came from, nor have I been able to find out. Most all the houses were of one storey and * " Voyage aux lies de I'Amerique," Vol. 11., page 285. AS ISLAND OF THE SEA. 11 very well arranged, their pavement being of tiles and the interiors whitewashed. He also speaks favorably of its agriculture. The estates though small were well kept. The soil, if light, was good, pro- ducing an abundance of manioc, millet, sweet potatoes, and all kinds of fruits and herbs. The sugar cane grew well. They had few cows and horses, for lack of pasturage ; but the inhabi- tants did not want for meat, the Spaniards furnishing them with it in abundance. Young kids and fowls were raised in quantities. Provisions were always dear, but money was plentiful, strangers arriving in affluence. A brilliant picture for so short an existence the colony had passed through ; and as our " Island of the Sea " went on progressing through the years that followed, under several Governors, during which the cultivation of indigo was com- menced, another frightful hurricane devastated it. This was in 1713. In 1716, the import duties were changed from six to eight per cent., congregations were permitted to elect their own pastors, and the Secret Council was now separated from the courts in which they formerly sat as judges. About this time a deputation was sent home to Copenhagen, the first Govern- ment House was purchased, and the privileges of the Branden- burgh Company ceased. Then a land tax was imposed and a tax of two and a half rix dollars for each man, woman, and slave. Then a Royal Council administered the affairs of the colony. It consisted of five persons besides the Governor, as President, two merchants, the bookkeeper, treasurer, and secretary. Planters had no more the power of life and death over their slaves, and were bound to treat them well. Clerks servins" six years were then permitted to return home ; but young un- married women were not to enjoy the privilege at all, without special permission, a state of things our young ladies of to-day will surely smile at. A Reconciling Court, with the Governor as judge, was now established, and the duties on imports and exports were lowered to five or six per cent. St. Thomas was in a flourishing con- dition. Untold wealth flowed to its shores, and it was not until tlic year 1756 that its very existence was threatened by the very means that had contributed to its greatness. 1- AX ISLAND OF THE SEA. Up to this time tlie Dutch liad carried on a ^i^reat trade in St. Thomas. The Company, jealous of their success, united with the merchants, and Avith their lielp proceeded to exchide the ])utch from all commerce Avith the colonies. It had now become a gigantic monopol}'', which from the oppressive restrictions it put upon the island for its own special benefit, soon promised its extinction. It was then that His Majesty, King Frederik V., stepped in and acquired all its privileges by purchase. It was an enormous price they obtained for them, but no price was too great to pay to get rid of what, at the time, was a curse instead of a benefit. Unfortunately for the colony, such a sweeping change brought misery, and it is recorded that emigration was of daily occur- rence, money became scarce, a paper currency was issued, and of the few inhabitants left to sustain its fallen fortunes the majority were slaves. Only on the 9th of April 1764, when it was declared a free port for vessels of all nations, did its star become once more in the ascendant. Ships came in, and with them the money so much needed. The history of St. Thomas, from thatdate, is a long record of triumphant progress in commerce and industry. Its harbour was full of ships, its town grew rapidly, great houses were established, wealthy merchants came there to remain, and from morn till eve its stores were alive with busy purchasers. The first rude shock came with the English, who blockaded it in the year 1800. Denmark was at war with Great Britain. So, on the 1st of April 1801, our " Island of the Sea" surrendered to a military and naval force imder Colonel Cowell. For ten months they held it, when it was restored to Demnark, on the 22nd of Feb. 1802. During this time its commerce was at a standstill. Destructive fires took place in 180-i and l>SO(i, which de- stroyed over 10,000,000 dollars worth of property, and in ]807, the island was again surrendered to the English, who cjccupied it till the 9th of April 1815, wlnii tlicy restored it to Denmark, and its trade again revived. On the 4th Aerricultural and Industrial Societies of St. Thomas, for the purpose of advancing the proposed Agricultural Show, which was to come off during the year. On the ISth of August this Exhibition took place. It was held in town, and lasted two days, the first day being observeb)-ated on the 28th of July with becoming loyalty. A subscription of 1087 dollars was collected, aii