Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2008 with funding from Microsoft Corporation http://www.a'rchive.Grg/details/allvoyagesroundwOOgaltrich ALL THE VOYAGES ROUND THE WOULD, FROM THE FIRST BV MAGELLAN, IN 1520, TO THAT or FREYCINET, IN 1 820. NOW FIRST COLLECTED, BY CAPT. SAMUEL PRIOK. NEW YORK: WILLIAM H. COLYER, No. 6 HAGUE-STREET, # 1844. Mj-^'^U' ■ 4 CONTENTS Date. Page. Ferdinand Magellan 1519 27 Sir Tr incis Drake 1.577 36 Sir Ihomas Cavendish 1586 44 Oliver Van Noort. 1598 51 Captain William Dampier 1683 67 Mr. Cowley 1083 93 Captain Woodes Rogers 1708 98 Captain John Clipperton 1719 132 Captain George Shelvock 1719 140 Admiral Joris Spilbergen 1614 149 Jacob Le Maire and Wilhelm Cornelisz Schouten . . . 1615 154 Admiral Jacob L'Heremite 1623 161 Admiral Jacob Roggevv'ein 1721 165 Commodore George Anson 1740 168 Commodore Byron 1764 183 Captain Samuel Wallia 1766 191 Captain Carteret 1766 200 Mons. De Bougainville 1766 208 M. De Pages 1767 219 Captain James Cook 1768 228 (Second Voyage) 1772 248 (Third Voyage) 1776 267 Captains Portlock and Dixon 1785 290 M. De la Perouse 1785 298 Captain Edward Edwards 1790 816 Captain George Vancouver 1791 322 Captain Etienne Marchand 1790 346 Missionary Voyage , 1796 353 Captain D'Entrecasteaux 1791 374 Mr. John TurnbuU 1800 378 Captain Krusenstern 1803 396 Captain Freycinet ....• 1818 414 Maii780 PREFACE An arrangement of all the voyages which have been made round the world, within the compass of a moderate-sized volume, seems to be one of those wants which modern literature has been, for some years, called upon to supply ; offering, as it does, not merely much solid information, with the greatest amusement, but because it is adapted to every age, sex, and condition in life. It is one of those never-failing sources of plea- sure, which may claim a constant place on the parlour-table, in the school- room, and in the library ; which can never be taken up without instruction, nor put down without regret ; which offers the results of much skill and adventure, without the labours or dangers necessary to gain ihem by experience. Such a work elucidates several points which astronomy has taught ; it exemplifies to the student in geography much of what he has learned, stamping the conclusions of science and theory with the evidences of facts. For a familiar acquaintance with the people of distant countries, and with the figure and peculiarities of the earth, which voyages round the world tend so eminently to teach, are among the first offerings of the practical navigator to the science which first taught him it was probable he might be enabled to sail round the globe he is destined to inhabit. The distinguishing characteristic of the human mind being an invincible spirit of inquiry, which disdains to rest satisfied with the simple impres- sions communicated by the external senses, it was, in all probability, one of the first desires of the first men who tenanted the earth, to gain, not only a more intimate, but comprehensive acquaintance with its peculiar qualities and figure. To them it would naturally appear, as it does to the vulgar even of the present day, a vast plain, extending they know not where, fixed they know not how, diversified by various productions, studded with hill and dale, rock and sand, wood and water, but still essentially a plain. To conceive anything else, was, indeed, unlikely in the infancy of society. Art had not time to do much for it, and science nothing. Knowledge, we know, is but of slow growth, laboriously and scantily quarried from obscurity by human wit for human uses ; neither had men yet congre- gated in those vast masses which, by the continual collision of individuals, at length elicit light and truth of every description. If society has occa- sioned some of our vices, it has also been the parent of most of our milder virtues, and of all our information. Man, had he been alwaya solitary, had been always barbarous and ignorant. The sea was an object so truly wonderful in itself, its qualities and phenomena were so peculiar, its extent so boundless, and the difficulty of traversing or examining it so great in the early ages of mankind, that we may well conceive, while they wondered at its nature, they could form no idea of its uses. They could not imagine that its riches vied with those of the land ; that its contents ascended in the form of vapour, and again descended in showers to fertilize that land ; that it occupied much the larger portion of the globe they inhabited ; and that, in time, it was to form the best and speediest means of communication betweea 1* Vi PREFACE. distant couniries, and thus to become the parent of knowledge, commerce, and civihzation. Its superfices, according to the best calculations, occupies 131,701,440 miles, or about two-thirds of that of the whole earth. Philosophers have long speculated about its probable depth, without arriving at any certain conclusion. Some suppose that its bed is not more below than the hills are above the general level of the earth, which, if true, would make it, at most, in particular spots, between five and six miles deep. Buffon considers that its bed is equally irregular with all other surfaces, which we have better opportunities for examining ; that there are num- berless depths and shallows ; that the greatest depths exist in the vicinity of the highest lands, and vice versa ; and that the medium depth of the whole ocean does not, in all probability, exceed one-fourth of a mile. To this there seems no solid objection. The inaccuracy of our knowledge on the point arises from the incompetency of our instruments for sound- ing, none having yet been invented likely to answer the purpose at any considerable distance from the surface of the sea, though one instance is recorded where it was sounded so far as a mile and sixty-six feet. The existence, however, of so many islands scattered in all the oceans, affords proof that the sea, far from increasing in depth as we recede from the shore, on the contrary, frequently shallows ; and that while some of these irregularities appear as islands above the surface of the water, there are others not so high, known to the navigator as shoals against which he has to guard. Added to these, there are many thousands more of still less elevation, which neither the eye nor the lead-and-line can reach, every practical sailor knowing that he cannot always depend upon the latter at a greater depth than 100, or, perhaps, 150 fathoms, but most commonly not so much. Nor is there, in general, much attejition paid to this subject except when in the immediate vicinity of land. As the mountains of the earth form its prominences, so the beds of the different oceans constitute its concavities, of which the largest is that of the Great Pacific, or South Sea, extending from the eastern shore of New Holland to the western coast of America, and occupying nearly one-half of our globe. The second in size is the Atlantic, connecting Europe with America ; the Indian Ocean forms the third : to these may be added the Arctic and Antarctic, the Mediterranean, Baltic, and other seas, forming together an amazing body of water. The circumference of the earth, according to geographers, does not exceed 24,912 miles. To sail over this seems an arduous undertaking ; but, in fact, to encom- pass it, as ships usually do, on account of contrary winds, currents, and occasional variations from the direct track, it is necessary for circumnavi- gators to traverse more than treble this space. The knowledge of the figure of the earth, by which it was first sup posed capable of being sailed round, has been gained solely from the progressive improvements of astronomy. This science is supposed to have made some progress among the antediluvians, whose lives, according to Josephus, the Jewish historian, were purposely prolonged by Providence for its advancement. Noah communicated all that was known on the subject to the Chaldeans, by means of his immediate descendants. The Egyptians succeeded to all the scientific acquirements of these people ; and, according to some writers, first conjectured the earth to be spherical, some time previous to the era of Solomon, the Jewish ruler, by obser- ving the moon to fall into her shadow. This shrewdness of remark indi- cated considerable advancement in the science. It is remarkable, however^ that by one of those strange revolutions in empires, which history faiU PREFACE. VU to record, and for which even tradition offers no explanation, this people sunk from the summit of power and civilization to imbecility and bar- barism ; so that, in the time of Augustus of Rome, astronomy, along with every other science, had become nearly extinct in that country. From Egypt, Thales carried its general principles among the Greeks. Anaximander, however, seems early to have taught that the earth was spherical ; but Pythagoras, especially, was the first who formed clear views of the position and economy of all the heavenly bodies. About 440 years before Christ, Philolaus, a celebrated follower of Pythagoras, endeavoured to prove that the earth revolved round the sun ; and, after him, Hicetas, of Syracuse, asserted its diurnal motion on its own axis. The Romans seem to have done little in this science. The darkness of mind which peivaded all Europe after their fall, affected astronomy as well as every other species of knowledge ; disregarded in Europe, they took flight for a season into Arabia, where, amid the feats of arms and the enchantments of poetry and romance, they were zealously fostered by the caliphs, who were themselves not unfrequently among the most enlightened philosophers of their dominions. Astronomy, more particu- larly, was in this way frequently honoured. The revival of letters produced a corresponding enlargement of science. Several eminent astronomers adorned Germany and Italy. But it was reserved for Christopher Columbus, who united much skill in this science to a true idea of the figure of the earth, and great experience as a prac- tical seaman, to propose to sail round, or rather across, it ; for, up to this time, but one great ocean and one continent were supposed to constitute our globe. To this great man, therefore, the first idea of circumnaviga- tion, though not the full execution of the design, is justly due. He had upheld it with a constancy as surprising as it was for a long time hope- less, amid derision, neglect, and suspicion ; exposed, like aU other bene- factors of mankind, to alternate insult and praise, to envy and injury, as if a fatality attended those destined to enlighten or exalt their species ; or Providence had ordained it as a drawback, in order to lessen a vanity that might otherwise prove inordinate. In 1513, Vasco Nunez de Bilboa discovering, for the first time, the South Sea from the mountains of Panama, Ferdmand Magellan, a Portu- guese officer, formed the scheme of entering it, and thus going round the world ; for with the daily progress of discovery he had acquired clearer views of its practicability. He opened his plans to the government, but in vain ; ministers in all countries being prone to suspect the motives of projects they do not properly appreciate or understand. Spain again, as in the instance of Columbus, was applied to, and with similar good effect. Charles the Fifth then wielded her sceptre, a prince whose talents, nearly as great as his ambition, aiming at adding the whole of the east to the finest part of Europe already in his possession, saw at once the national glory, if not wealth, which would redound from the enter- prise. He admitted the courageous projector to a formal interview, gave him, though a foreigner, the chief command in opposition to much native influence and prejudice, and by a liberality more frequently worthy of imitation, added the honour of knighthood for making an attempt which others would probably have awarded only to its successful accomplishment. The generosity of the emperor stimulated the zeal of the navigator, for no undertaking was ever more vigorously pursued or ably completed, though, unfortunately, the adventurous leader did not Uve to reap th« reward of his courage. vSi PREFACE. The success of the enterprise fully settled the point of the rotundity of the globe. To this conclusion nearly all the philosophers of the age had already arrived. But politicians were not so easily convinced : and one of the strongest objections to the attempt of Columbus, among the courtiers of Ferdinand and Isabella, was, that he would probably go so far as to be unable to return against the resistance offered by that very convexity which was to assist him in proceeding. They did not consider that the earth is so vast a mass as to answer every practical purpose of a plain ; and that it would be no more difficult to return from any particular point, than to go thither. The spirit which actuated the early circumnavigators will be more admired when we consider the great imperfections of navigation at that time. Of correct longitude scarcely anything was known. No depen- dance could be placed on the common reckoning in strange seas, where unknown and irregular currents drove them to arid fro they knew not whither ; while lunar observations and chronometers, the only true guides of the mariner in our days, were utterly unknown. A meridian altitude of the sun, indeed, indicated their position north or south, but everything else was confided to Providence. Their vessels also were extremely small, clumsily built, poorly provision- ed, ill-fitted, on account of the backward state of seamanship, and ill-pro- vided with stores to replace those destroyed in action or worn out by use. The loss of a mast, a topsail, or an anchor, were to them dangerous accidents ; while the unshipping of a rudder would probably have been followed by immediate destruction. In short, we should scarcely trust ourselves from Dover to Calais in vessels in which they successfully cir- cumnavigated the globe. Few, at least, of ^ our boldest adventurers would undertake such an expediton in vessels of thirty, fifty, or eighty tons, thus fitted, provided, and navigated, as did the companions of Drake and others of our ancient heroes. The only modern instance anything like this, is that of the late Captain Flinders, of the royal navy. Being wrecked on a sand-bank off the eastern shore of New Holland, he builfe a small vessel, less than our Gravesend boats, out of the wreck, in which he proceeded to Port Jackson, intending to continue his route in her to England. Touching, however, at the Isle of France in his way, the de- sign appeared to the French so desperate and improbable that his story was not believed ; war had also taken place between the two countries, and though provided with the passport of Napoleon to guard against capture, was most cruelly and unjustly detained seven years in captivity as a spy. He did not, therefore, ccwnplete his voyage, which would have been half round the world, in the smallest vessel in which it has been attempted since the days of Drake ; it was called the Cumberland, and is still to be seen in the harbour of Port Louis, in Mauritius, Among the most trying difficulties with which the early voyagers had to contend, were the fears, superstitions, and insubordination of their sea-nen. The latter, above all others, is the most arduous and appalling to a commander. Enemies may be repulsed, the elements cannot bo always adverse ; but against the mutinous spirit of our companions, those who are constantly by our side, by whose exertions alone we can proceed, and who have necessarily all the power in their own hands, what, in general, can the voice of a captain or an officer or two effect 1 Even this serious obstacle was commonly overcome, sometimes by great pru- dence and management, and frequently, it must be confessed, by the sacrifice of human life. Magellan executed some of his companions, PREFACE. IX put a few to death by lees honourable means, and left others to drag out a miserable existence among the most wretched savages. Drake follow- ed the example. Seamen, no doubt, often require strict discipline and superintendence. Want of education, and ignorance of settled habits of life, added to their ever-wandering mode of existence, occasionally inspire a restless- ness of character against which it is necessary to guard, as it has some- times led to great excesses, and even to the most serious crimes. Fatigued by the monotony of their life, they desire a change ; and impatient of continual restraint, frequently seek among savages that freedom, happiness, and exemption from labour which they beheve to exist only in such a community. It is thus that some of the South Sea islands contain hun- dreds of English sailors. It is also true, that, with fewer personal com- forts than any other class of men, their treatment by commanders is often unduly severe. Some degree of tyranny has always prevailed at sea in vessels of all nations ; nor was our own royal navy, till within these fevv years, exempted from the charge ; but, in truth, the skipper of a collier is quite as great a despot in his way as those of higher rank and pretension. Another source of apprehension and difficulty to the early voyagers was the disposition with which they might be received by the strange nations inhabiting the countries of which they were in search, as want of refreshments must continually bring them into contact. The know- ledge of human nature was then so limited as to give rise to the most extravagant conjectures concerning the inhabitants of this as well as of the other world. The majority of people believed in witches and conju- rers, in cunning dwarfs and monstrous giants, which the adventurers no doubt expected to see, as well as many other wonders in the new countries. It is remarkable that this idea was, in some measure, verified. For the first strange people they met with, the Patagonians, proved of extraordinary stature, though not, in fact, such giants as at first repre- sented. Added to these were the usual dangers, common to all seamen, of storms, shipwreck, famine, thirst, and the most horrible of all, from which there is no hope and no retreat, namely, the calamity of fire. When the variety and importance of all these difficulties are considered, our admiration of those bravo men becomes as great as their views were grand, and their courage invincible. An interval of fifty-seven years elapsed from the expedition of Magel- lan, when Drake, who had served in the West Indies against the Spa- niards, struck out the novel scheme of cruising against them on the coasts of Chili and Peru, to which countries no English vessel had yet pene- trated, though a few adventurers had reached Panama, across the Isthmus of Darien. Besides, the prospect of gaining wealth from the enemies of his country, in itself an irresistible temptation, there was the farther honour, by returning round the Cape of Good Hope, of being the second circumnavigator. It is unnecessary to say this bold undertaking suc- ceeded. Cavendish and others followed with equal success ; but Drake may justly be termed the father of the bucaniers of the South Sea. Of this celebrated association, which originated in the West Indies, and occasionally extended its operations to the Pacific Ocean, to the continual anxiety and terror of the Spaniards, it will be necessary to give some account, as without it the following pages would be incomplete. The name bucanier, which originally signified one who dried or smoked flesh in the manner of the Indians, was given to the first French settlers of St. Domingo, who hunted wild boars and cattle in order to sell the hides and flesh to their more settled neighbours. They lived i" X PREFACE. huts built on patches of cleared ground, just sufficiently large to admit of drying the skins. These spots were named Boucans, and the huts, which were commonly only temporary, Ajoupas, terms borrowed from the native Indians. With the more regular Spanish settlers of the same island they were continually at war, and, therefore, concealment was in some degree necessary, the motives of the Spaniards for this persecution being jealousy of the presence of all other Europeans. The tenants of the Boucans, having neither women nor children, con- gregated in parties, each keeping a servant, who, being some recent adventurer from Europe, was obliged to bind himself for three years to an older bucanier in order to gain a footing in the community ; more a companion, however, than a servant, the fruits of their labours were en- joyed in common ; and in cases of death, the domestic regularly suc- ceeded to the property of his master. In process of time, some, tired of this occupation, settled as planters in the little island of Tortuga, situated at a short distance from the north side of St. Domingo, to which they were by degrees driven by the repeated massacres of the Spaniards. Others commenced freebooters by sea, amply revenging npon thnt nation the injuries sustained by their companions on land. Success continually added to their confidence and to their numbers. They seldom, at first, acted together ; but in parties of from fifty to two hundred men each, embarked in small boats, ill-adapted either to war or security from the elements, and would attack the largest vessels, overpowering them by a desperate bravery which nothing could withstand. Thus they fought their way to riches and power. Every additional prize afforded increased means of capturing others ; till at length the Spaniards, afraid of proceeding to sea, had their intercourse with the mother country nearly annihilated. Although their vengeance was directed against this, their wealthiest and bitterest enemy, other nations were not exempted from their depreda- tions. When distressed for men, money, or ships, almost every stranger became an enemy. Thus far they were pirates. The booty was regularly divided into as many shares as there were men. None had a preference. The leader of an enterprise, commonly elected only for the occasion, among the most distinguished for skill and courage, enjoyed more honours, but had no claim to greater emoluments than his associates, except what the general voice chose to award when an enterprise proved profitable, and had been ably conducted. No fixed laws guided their proceedings. These were made upon the spur of the occasion. But offences against the general good, such as f)eculation or treachery, were severely and summarily punished, either by death or by leaving the culprit upon a desert island. Such was the certainty of punishment, or the sense of justice to each other, that few instances of this kind occurred. Their behaviour verified the adage of " Honesty among thieves ;" for though robbers by profession, none were ever more equitable among themselves. Every share was chosen by lot. The wounded were provided for by a certain sum, and an allowance during cure. The companion or servant of a member killed, received his share. If he had none, it was transmitted to his relations ; or if these were unknown, given to the poor or to churches, to apologize for misdeeds neither repented of nor discontinued. They seldom went to gca except when in want of money, and, when gained, it was as quickly s;ient. Jamaica commonly formed the resort of the English, and St. Domingo of the French, where the fruits of their cruises being soon dissipated in rioting and debauchery, necessity drove them to the same desperate undertakings for farther supplies. PREFACE. Xl These associations continued with but few intermissions for nearly 150 years, peace or war in Europe being of no import in the eyes of their leaders. The principal of these were Morgan, Samms, Wilner, Towley, and others, among the EngHsh ; Montbar, L'Olonois, Grognier, Picard, Le Sage, and Grammont, among the French ; Van Horn, a Dutchman, and De Basco, a Portuguese. Morgan, the most renowned of the English freebooters, after a variety of minor exploits, conceived the bold project of subduing Porto Bello, which he accomplished with great skill and no loss, gaining a large booty from its plunder and ransom. Panama, however, a large town situated across the Isthmus of Darien, on the shore of the South Seas, promised still more wealth. Having reduced the Island of St. Catharine's by a secret understanding with the Spanish governor, who wished to have the honour, though not the danger, of resisting the adventurers, he proceed- ed to the mouth of the River Chagres, leading part of the way to his ultimate destination. Here was a fort situated upon a rock ; against which beat the waves of the sea ; and defended by an officer and a garrison worthy of the trust committed to their courage. The bucaniers attacked it with desperation, and were as vigorously resisted, but this resistance only stimulated the energy of the men accustomed, not merely to expect, but almost to command, success. For some time the contest continued doubtful, till a lucky shot killed the commander of the fort, while at the same time it took fire, when the besieged, losing courage, surrendered. Morgan, leaving his vessels at anchor under a guard, proceeded in canoes up the river thirty-five miles, where, being no longer navigable, t\e disembarked, and marched toward Panama, about thirty miles distant. On a plain, without the town, a considerable army appeared drawn up to oppose his progress. This was no sooner attacked than dispersed. In the city, in boats, and in the neighbouring forests, were found vast trea- sures concealed in caves and cellars, the inhabitants having had lime to retire themselves, but not to carry off their wealth ; added to these were immense quantities of valuable articles of commerce, which, being unable to remove, were, as well as the town, according to the barbarous practice of that age, set on fire by the adventurers, who regained their ships with a prodigious booty. Among the French, who distinguished themselves as much for cruelty as bravery, was Montbar, a native of Languedoc. He had in early life conceived a strong prejudice against the Spaniards, on account of their cruelties to the Indians ; this spirit increasing with his years, he embark- ed from Europe to join the bucaniers. In the passage out, a Spanish vessel being met with, was attacked, boarded, and taken, Montbar lead- ing the way to the decks of the enemy, along which he carried wounds and death, nothing being able to resist his desperate fury ; and when submission terminated the engagement, his only pleasure seemed to be to contemplate, not the treasures of the vessel, but the number of dead and dying Spaniards, against whom he had vowed a deadly and eternal hatred. This inveterate enmity never subsided. His opponents suffer- ed so much and so frequently from it, during the whole of his life, that he acquired from them the name of the Exterminator. Another of the same nation, named L'Olonois, from the situation of bondsman, had raised himself to the command of two boats and twenty- two men, with which he was bold enough to attack, and fortunately enough to capture, a small Spanish frigate on the coast of Cuba. With this vessel he succeeded in taking four ships fitted out at Port-au-Prince to itestroy him ; but cruelly threw their crews over-board, excepting on« Xll PREPACB. man, sent back to the governor of the Havannah, with a message that all Spaniards who might fall into his hands, not excepting even his excel- lency himself, should experience a similar fate. At Tortuga he met with Michael de Basco, already celebrated for having taken a ship under the guns of Porto Bello, valued at i)220,000, and a variety of other enterprises equally daring and profitable. Between them a new expedition was plan- ned, supported by 450 men ; in the bay of Venezuela they reduced a fort, sinking the guns, and cruelly putting the garrison of 250 men to death. Re-embarking, tbey reached Maracaibo, built on the western shore of the lake of that name, a city which had acquired wealth by its trade in skins, cocoa, and tobacco. The inhabitants, at the first alarm, fled with their principal effects ; enough, however, remained to keep the bucaniers in drunkenness and debauchery for some lime ; in the mean- while works were thrown up to impede their progress, which they reduced at the expense of blood and labour, but without any profit. Maracaibo itself was ransomed ; Gibraltar, situated near the extremity of the lake, was burned, owing to the exasperation of the adventurers at missing the expected plunder ; and at length they retired laden with crosses, pic- tures, and bells, more than with wealth. Van Horn, in 1603, formed the design of an expedition, which promised a rich harvest to his followers. He himself was at once their admiration and terror, being not only remarkable for intrepidity but for punishing the smallest want of it in others, often going round the decks during the heat of an engagement, and instantly shooting those who, in the small- est degree, flinched from their guns. In other respects he was equitable and generous, sharing equally with his crew the produce of their courage, though sailing in a ship wholly his private property. To aid in the present scheme, he took Gramont, Godfrey, Jonqu6, and De Graff, all commanders of approved skill and courage, with 1200 men, the largest force which had yet been mustered, ami in six vessels sailed for Vera Cruz. Night, and ignorance of the armament, favouring their design, the bucaniers landed eight miles from the town, entered it un- discovered, and, before day-break, secured the governor, forts, barracks, and all the soldiers capable of making opposition. The inhabitants sought refuge in the churches, at the doors of which were placed barrets of gun- powder, guarded by the invaders with lighted matches, m order to destroy the whole in case of insurrection or tumult. The work of pillage, in the meantime, proceeded without interruption, nothing being left which it was possible or desirable to carry away. A proposal was likewise made to the imprisoned people, who had not tasted food for three days, to ran- som their lives and freedom for a sum of .£440,000. This, whether able or not, they were compelled to accede to, half the money being paid immediately, and the other half promised in a few days. Suddenly, how- ever, a large armed force appeared before the town, and a fleet of seven- teen ships from Europe before the port, which, though sufficient to inti- midate a regular army, if not to desert their plunder, had no other effect on the bucaniers than to induce them to retreat quietly with 1500 slaves, as an indemnifi(iation for the remaining half of the expected ransom, and o push deliberately through the Spanish fleet, which, instead of inter- cepting, was itself happy to escape from such terrible assailants. For a long series of years these depredations continued. Scarcely a town escaped, except such as were situated very far in the interior ; forts and soldiers were of little use on the coast, for the former were soon reduced, and the latter, whenever they attempted a fair contest in the field, always conquered. Toward tlie decline of tbis predatory warfare, pREPACfi. xiii Gramont embarked with a considerable force for Campeachy, and landing without opposition, found 800 Spaniards drawn up to dispute the approach to the town, who were attacked, beaten, and pursued into it, with the invaders close behind, till stopped by the citadel. Against this all the cannon they could find was directed in vain. Fear, however, effected what force could not. The garrison, dreading the name of the buca- niers, evacuated the place dunng the night, leaving only an Englishman in it, (a gunner,) who, with the spirit of a soldier, disdained to desert that which he had sworn to defend, and which, it appeared, was capable of being obstinately defended ; and so highly did this principle of honour and courage operate upon the assailants, who were held together solely by the same feelings, that they received him with distinction, and reward- ed him, not only with praises and liberty, but likewise with wealth. For two months the conquerors kept possession of the city, searching not only every nook and corner in it for plunder, but the country for thirty or forty miles round, discovering what had been hidden in the earth or in the woods, to the great loss of the inhabitants, who vainly believed they had, by this means, secured part of their property. The plunder, as soon as collected, was deposited on ship-board. The governor of the province kept the field with nearly 1000 men, but dared not interrupt men who Beemed as desperate, wherever booty was to be procured, as they were insensible to danger and regardless of death. His refusal to ransom the city caused its immediate destruction by fire. The citadel, likewise, was levelled to the ground. A more extraordinary sacrifice on the part of the freebooters was a bonfire made of logwood, valued at £1,000,000 sterling, and forming part of the plunder, which, in celebrating the festival of St. Louis, on the anniversary of the French king, whose subjects they principally were, was given to the flames in the intoxication of folly rather than of loyalty. The last memorable attempt of the bucaniers, on a large scale, in this part of the world, took place in 1697, when 1200 men joined a squa- dron of seven ships from Europe, in order to attack the city of Cartha- gena. Their commander was named Pointis, a man of little honour or generosity, but intent on aggrandizing himself. The enterprise was ar- duous ; the place the strongest in the new world ; the port difficult of approach to enemies ; and, if not immediately reduced, the chmate so bad that were the Spaniards even to do nothing more than to contrive delays, it would soon destroy the invaders. This, however, the latter knew.. They therefore proceeded vigorously to work, seconded by that zeal accustomed to contend with, and to conquer next to impossibilities ; of guns they had no want, and their men were prodigal of their blood ; each fought as if his individual honour and interest were at stake, which, in- deed, formed the life of these associations ; and their good fortune, as usual, prevailing, the city yielded to their arms with a booty calculated at £1,750,000. Of a great part of this they were deprived by the knavish rapacity of their commander. Exasperated at his tricks, a party proceeded toward his ship, determined to inflict summary punishment on the offender, but recollecting this could be of no immediate service, cried out, " Brethren, why should we pollute ourselves with the blood of this knave 1 He is unworthy the indignation of honourable men ! Let him live to be despised and hooted, rather than die lamented by any one who may hear of his fate, without knowing his crimes. Our share of the booty is still at Cariliagena, and there alone must we look for it." XIV PREFACE. Retttrning to the city, vhich was re-entered without opposition, the inhabitants were shut up in the churches till the sum of £220,000 should be paid, the amount of the sum of which they believed themselves de- frauded. Possessed of this, they promised to retire without molestation to property or person ; without it they threatened the most frightful destruc- tion to both. Unable, or unwilling, to satisfy men whose wants were as boundless as their conduct was daring and unprincipled, the poor people knew not v/hat to do. A venerable priest, at length, mounted the pulpit, to aid, by the force of religious eloi]uence, the exactions of that rapacity which it was probably useless to refuse, and impossible to prevent, and which, if ungiatified, would terminate in more terrible and destructive consequences. This appeal not producing the sum expected, the city was ordered to be plundered. Sated, at length, with rioting and plun- der ; with money, merchandize, and moveables of all kinds, they quitted this unfortunate place ; but soon afterward, falling in with an English and Dutch squadron then in alliance with Spain, were attacked and nearly destroyed, part being taken, part sunk, and part escaping to St. Domingo, a piece of due retributive justice for their extortionate and*illegal deeds, which had now become, on many occasions, quite piratical, and unsanc- tioned by the practices of fair and honourable warfare. From this time bucaniering rapidly declined, the majority becoming settlers in the different West Indian islands, to which they were induced by the European powers sending out ships-of-war to clear those seas and establish perfect security in commerce, which had been, for a cen- tury, much interrupted, and, so far as regarded Spain, often, for years together, quite destroyed. Those who persisted in illegal practices were executed as pirates ; while others, more disposed to acquire wealth by honest means, received encouragement from the local governments in grants of land. The renewal of war with Spain occasionally drew forth some of the more turbulent spirits from their peaceful occupations, but the greater portion had acquired settled habits ; and, in time, the name of bucanier, as well as his practices, became gradually obliterated among all but the Spaniards, by whom they will never be forgotten. It must also be admitted, that these adventurers acted, in some mea- sure, from principle. Many conscientiously detested the Spanish people on account of real or alleged cruelties toward the Indians. In plun- dering them, they believed they were only despoiling robbers of that to which they had no legal claim ; and far from considering their actions as crimes, esteemed ihe.m not merely honourable but just. If the cruellies of Pizarro and Cortes have ever been avenged on their countrymen, it has, doubtless, been by the bucaniers. It is like- "wise true that their practices fostered the nautical spirit of the age, and particularly of our own country, at a time when it was much wanted, and which has since been cultivated to such valour and renown. They encouraged the spirit of enterprise as well as of discovery ; they led the way to commerce ; they introduced wealth in shape of merchandize, as well as in specie ; they made sailors ; they improved the construction and equipment of ships ; they fixed the attention of government on the best, and it may be said natural defences ot Britain ; they brought men of rank, of fortune, and of talent to sea, who, but for the inducements held out by the hope of participating in Spanish wealth, would probably have left the naval profession to that humbler class of society to whom it had been hitherto confined, who, had they even possessed the am- bition, could not have enjoyed the means to raise it to that pitch of glory it has ever since retained. PREFACE. XV Our obligations to the bucaniers are, therefore, not inconsiderable. While these are admitted, let us not forget to condemn freebooting practices, directed too often against every age and sex, against the in nocent trader as well as guilty plunderer of the Indians, against friends as well as foes. Their system was fitted only for a ruder age, and na- turally expired with the occasion. It holds up to view much for our wonder, but nothing for imitation. To elucidate still farther the following " voyages round the world," it may not be uninteresting to our readers, more particularly the younger part, to give some idea, of the structure of the globe, the formation of some of the southern islands, with such additional remarks on their language, government, and manners, as may render their history and condition perfectly intelligible. Various theories have been given to the world, by learned men, on its probable origin and structure. To detail these is not our intention. The subject occupies many and large volumes, and is daily giving birth to many more. M. Cuvier, of the French National Institute, and Dr. Knight, of Belfast, in Ireland, have very recently made farther research- es on this intricate and uncertain subject, but, perhaps, without more general success than some of their predecessors. Public opinion is, flnd has been for some years, divided between the systems of Dr. James Hutton and Professor Werner, the latter of which is likewise called the Neptunian theory, and of these a short account is necessary. Dr. Hutton supposes that by far the greater part of the bodies which compose our globe bear the marks of being composed of substances of much more ancient date, or in other words, that the present world is formed from the wrecks of a former. For the remains are so generally spread in nature, that no doubt the strata, which constitute the pre- sent continents, are merely new combinations of other strata infinitely older. The present rocks having all existed in the form of loose materials at the bottom of the sea, must have been consolidated and converted into stone by the operation of some very powerful and general agent. This agent he considers to be subterranean fire. The pressure of the super- incumbent ocean prevented the heat, however intense, from volatilizing those substances, which, under the lighter pressure of our atmosphere, it would have consumed. The same pressure, by keeping these sub- stances united, which on the surface of the earth are easily separated, would probably occa'sion fusion, which in our hottest furnaces produce only calcination. Another circumstance is, that the stratified rocks, instead of being horizontal, or nearly so, as they were no doubt originally, aro now of all degrees of elevation even to the perpendicular, and those which were once at the bottom of the sea, are now raised many thousand feet above its surface. From this, as well as from the inflections, breakings, and separations of the various strata, it is deduced that they were raised by some groat expansive power acting under them. This must be the vol- cano, or earthquake, but in a more violent d-^grec than we have wit- nessed these phenomena. The very great disturbance of the strata cannot be traced to any other cause. A fourth consideration is, the great breaches among rocks, which, contrary to other divisions of nature, are filled up by materials quite dillerent from those that surround them. These are what are called the veins. They include not only metallic substances, but whinstone, por- phyry, and granite. These arc of posterior forraatioi o the 8*a-ata Xvl " PREFACE. which they intersect, and bear marks of the violence with which they have come into their place. The materials of all these veins have been melted by subterraneous heat, and while in a state of fusion, injected among the fissures and cavities of rocks already formed, but moved from their original place. All mineral bodies, it is likewise remarked by Dr. Hutton, are, with- out exception, going fast to decay when exposed to the atmosphere. That from the mountain to the sea-shore, from the softest clay to the hardest quartz, all are undergoing a separation of their parts, and carried down by rivers and depositions from the atmosphere, to be again de- posited in the sea. Thus far the oatline of Hutton. Werner's geognosy, as he terms it, allows that a very rational theory of the exterior crust of the globe may be formed, but that is difficult or impracticable to gain any definite knowledge of the interior. It is certain, that some portion of it has been in a fluid state, from its being now in a spheroidal form. The crystalline figure of granite and other rocky substances, constituting the base of that part of the earth which we know, are sufficient proofs that they have been in a state of minute dissolution. The stratified appearance of the majority of mountains and rocks, evinces they are accumulations of precipitates or sediments de- posited one over another. The numerous remains of marine animals found imbedded in many rocks, and of which some species still exist in our seas, render it highly probable, that this solution was aqueous ; that, in fact, a vast ocean once covered the globe to a considerable height. The inference is, that the exterior part of the globe has been entirely dissolved by the waters which surrounded it, and from this solution certain chemical precipitations took place, which have formed the crusts we now see. This view is supported by a variety of arguments and proofs drawn from the congeries of strata, each composed of a certain set of minerals, nearly the same in all parts of the world. These congeries Werner calls formations, divided into six classes, four of which are universal over the globe, and two partial, distinguished by appropriate names. This theory, the latest, most celebrated, and, on the whole, the clearest, is probably the most consonant to truth. Another subject always interesting to the navigator, is the flux and the reflux of the sea, and the cause of these phenomena. The theory of lunar attraction, adopted by Newton, was mentioned by Plutarch, and was taught through the middle and dark ages ; but as attraction, or a body acting where it is not, is an absurdity in terms, we shall introduce our readers to the more rational theory of Sir Richard Phillips, which proves that the tides are mere oscillations of ocean, and that these oscillations are caused by the motions of the earth and moon, and are necessary consequences of mutual action and reaction, without any le- gerdemain powers like that of attraction, repulsion, or gravitation. The tides, says Sir Richard Phillips,* are simple and palpable phe- nomena of motion. They are caused by the disturbance of the centre of the earth's motion ; and this disturbance is rendered apparent by the waters of the sea, because fluids, as fluids, can move from place to place, so as to restore any disturbed equilibrium. The solid parts of "ihe earth may have a tendency to move, but the moving power, in this case, is great enough only to move the fluids ; and when the equilibrium is wstored by these, the force created by the disturbance ceases to act. * Monthly Magazine, No. 345. PREFACB. XVll If the earth turned on a mathematical centre, (or axis,) and no cause ever disturbed the forces acting on each side of that centre, (or axis,) there would be no tides, or flux and reflux of the waters. But if the forces which revolve the earth were to act unequally on its sides, so as to have a tendency to vary the centre, then the waters, by their mobihty, would restore the equilibrium as the disturbance took place, so that the disturbance v?ould be simultaneously corrected, but the means of correction would, by the motions of the waters, produce what are called tides. If the earth were a smooth sphere, equally covered with water, equable and uniform motions would cause no tides. But if the earth were not a true homogeneous sphere, or had projecting parts on one side, or were denser on one side than on the other, then, as the momenta of the two sides, produced by a common force, must necessarily be equal, the side least dense, or having least matter, would perform a larger circuit than the other ; or, in other words, the centre of gyration and the mathematical centre would not be the same, and then the moveable fluids, because moveable and least dense, would rush to re- store the equilibrium. If, instead of a projecting side, we were to suppose a small globe to be annexed or joined to the earth, both revolving together on a common centre, or centre of their quantity of matter, then the centre of gyration would be considerably elevated toward that side, and the waters, in respecting that centre, would be impelled toward the annexed globe. Suppose, farther, that the annexed globe were separated from the other, and cariied to a distance, their masses still revolving about a com- mon centre acting and reacting through a fixed or gaseous lever, it is evident that the former effect would not be diminished, and that the waters, in being able, by their mobility, to respect that centre of motion, would be impelled toward the separated globe.* Such are the circumstances of the earth and moon. Thoy move round a common centre or fulcrum in the medium of space, the arms or dis- tances of the gaseous lever being in the inverse duplicate ratio of their distances and of their quantities of matter ; and the mundane fluids, as fluids, in respecting the centre of motion, rise toward the centre of mo- tion, or toward the fulcrum of their mutual revolution, which is always necessarily in the right line joining the centres of the earth and moon. But while this joint revolution of the earth and moon is performed round the fulcrum of the gaseous lever of space, the earth is turning on * The reader who is accustomed to consider space as a vacuum, because with his eye he does not see anything in space ; or he who has adopted the notion of a vacuum, because any matter in space might interfere with the necessary perpetuity of Newton's whimsical projectile force, may ask what connects the bodies when thus separated ? To this it may be replied, that the gaseous medium which fills space is as perfect a lever as a rod of iron or platina, though it propagates force to any point by a law sui generis, or diffu- sively as the reciprocal square of the distances ; and is more sensible and perfect than a fixed lever, in the exact proportion of its rarity — that is, the more rare the more sensible, and the more capable of propagating motion and force from one part of space to another. All the bodies in the universe are thus necessarily connected, and the connexion is formed by the gaseous medium filling space, which diffuses or diverges all forces and motions in- versely as the squares of the distances, and directly as the quantities of mat- ter moving with equal velocity. Solid levers propagate force in right lines by propulsion, and fluid and gaseous ones in spheres by difFusion. 2* XVlll PREFACE. its axis by a separate motion ; and as all parts of its surface are succes- sively presented to the moon, or to the common fulcrum, so the successive portions of water are elevated tov^'ard. the moon or fulcrum ; and hence the phenomena arise which we call tides governed necessarily in suc- cessive rotations by the times which the moon, or the common fulcrum, passes the meridian of any places. The fulcrum of the earth and moon is the point about which both re- volve, and is the centre of their reciprocal momenta. It necessarily lies in the line which joins the centres of the earth and moon ; and, being the centre of their joint momenta, is the point acted upon by the sun's impulses on the medium of space, in producing the orbicular motion ; and is, therefore, constantly in the earth's orbit ; while the centres of the earth and moon constantly revolve around it, by their mutual action and reaction on each other through the medium of space. The moveable fluids always accommodate themselves to the centre of gyration, which becomes their centre, without regard to the disposition of the fixed concrete masses, which they keep in mundane equilibrium : hence it is, that if a mountain on one side of a globe occasions the cen- tre of gyration to approach that mountain, the waters, in accommodating themselves to that centre, will accumulate about the mountain : hence, if another globe be annexed in contact, (suppose the moon in contact with the earth,) and the centre of gyration were then raised considerably toward that annexed globe, the waters, in respecting the circle of gyra- tion performed by both globes, would fill up the chasms between the curved surfaces of the two globes : and hence also, if the two globes, being separated and connected in motion only by a gaseous lever, (like the earth and moon in a medium of space,) still the centre or fulcrum of motion would, as a centre of gyration, govern the moving waters, and they would flow, or endeavour to flow, toward that fulcrum, and would even flow around it, if they were not restrained by a local rotatory force like that of the earth, and by a density of the fluid, sufficient to counter- act the tendency to ascend to the common centre of motion. Suppose the earth to be turning on its axis, with the fulcrum vertical over the meridian of central Africa, where, as there is no sea, there will be no apparent tide — though the seas of the Antarctic Ocean would be slightly affected. In an hour the rotation carries the shores of the At- lantic opposite the moon or fulcrum, and the waters being capable of rushing to restore the equilibrium, in consequence of the disturbance already explained, they rise toward the fulcrum or centre of lunar and mundane gyration, and the elevation continues as the Atlantic passes under the moon or fulcrum. But when the Atlantic shores of America arrive opposite the moon or fulcrum, the waters rise on the coast, and fill the entrances of the rivers, when the continent is presented to the moon or fulcrum, and then no tide is raised. Nevertheless, the waters were brought to the shores and left there — what then becomes of them 1 The cause which produced their elevation has departed to another meridian. Is it not astonishing that no one ever asked, or ever answered, this question 1 Must they not swing back, and is not this the second tide 1 Is not this a necessary cause of the second tide on the African and European shores ; and is not such second tide a necessary consequence of the waters being so accu- mulated 1 Would not the constant succession of this sufficient cause produce the same equable effect in the secondary as in the primary tide 1 Would not such constant succession produce a species of oscillation such as exists in the tides of the ocean "^ PREFACE. - XIX We need not accompany the phenomena to the shores of the Pacific, where the oscillations are less, because the liquid pendulum is larger and heavier — but where exactly the same causes produce a primary and secondary tide. In a word, the second tide arises from the reactions of the first tide against the visible continents and invisible rocks which bound and fill the ocean ; and which reactions concur with the departure of the force over land lo other meridians, so that a returning tide is a necessary conse- quence of a primary one. And in confirmation of this theory of the secondary tide, is it not notorious, that in certain parts of the South Pacific, where few or no disturbances are created by reflections of land, there is but one tide in twenty-four hours 1 The other peculiarity of the tides — their neap and spring, depending on the relative positions of the sun, moon, and earth, are susceptible of explanation equally clear and simple. In the quarters, the line joining the centres of the earth and moon, coincides with the line of the earth's orbit, or with the direction of the earth's orbicular force ; and the tide is then produced solely by the revolution of the earth round the fulcrum of the earth and moon. But as soon as the moon departs in its orbit, toward the solar conjunction or opposition, from the line of the earth's orbit, the centre of the earth is also carried on the opposite side out of the line of its orbit, and the line of the rotatory and orbicular motions no longer coincide. This disturbance the waters are able to restore ; and herein is a new cause of tide, which, at Ire opposition and conjunctions, not only coincides with the direction of the lunar fulcrum, but becomes itself a maximum, because the earth's centre is then removed the farthest from the line of the orbicular force. Hence the spring-tides at the new and full moon ; and hence all the degrees of tide, as the centre of the earth and the line of the fulcrum approach the direction of the orbit. In fine, says this writer, I ascribe (1) the tides of the revoluton of the earth round the fulcrum, or centre of the momentum, of the earth and moon, which fulcrum is always in the line which joins the centres of the earth and moon ; and as the moveable waters accumulate opposite that fulcrum, so they have the appearance of being attracted, as it is called, by the moon. I ascribe (2) the double tide in every twenty-four hours to the depar- ture of the force from the sea over the land, owing to the intervention ot the great continents which separate the two great oceans from each other. And, I ascribe (3) the variable heights of the tides, as apparently con- nected with the age of the moon, to the variable distance of the body ot the earth from the line of its orbicular force, during its revolution round the lunar and mundane centre of motion. When the land, by whatever means, emerged from the mass of waters, large portions of the latter were still left in particular concavities by the order of Providence, for the wisest purposes ; for it is quite clear that were it not for this arrangement, there would be little or no communica- tion between the more distant parts of the world. No commerce could possibly exist ; the expenses of conveyance, added to obstructions of a thousand kinds, would be altogether insurmountable. Rivers, forests, deserts, mountains, and innumerable hostile nations, must necessarily in • tervene, as we see every day on our continents, to interrupt the inter- course of distant portions of the globe, were even the fatigues, trouble, and expenses of a land-journey capable of being generally encountered. The greatest of these convenient media of communication is, as has been already alluded to, the great South Sea or Pacific Ocean, extending XX PREFACE. from the eastern shore of New Holland to the western coast of America, and from Cape Horn to Kamtschatka, a space of about 140 degrees of longitude by 120 of latitude ! This vast body of water had other claims to consideration besides its extent. It was long the object of enterprise and adventure in the pursuits of fame and wealth ; of inquiry for its supposed southern continent ; of curiosity as the means of circumnavi- gating the globe. It was the last great ocean which the skill of Euro- peans traversed, and of course possesses even to this moment much of the gloss of novelty. But it was more particularly remarkable for the incredible number of islands scattered over its enormous surface, not singly, or here and there, but in great and varied clusters. Many of these have been examined ; many hundreds of others are doubtless still unknown ; for every ship that takes a new route, or remains any time here, adds daily to our knowledge. So extensive and populous have been these additions to geographical science, that some skilful men propose two new divisions of the globe to the old number of four : New Holland, New Guinea, and some others in their vicinity to be named Australasia ; and all ihe rest Polynesia. The origin of many of these islands differs materially from those of Europe and from each other. While several are as ancient as creation, others are only recently elevated above the water. While the support- ers of the two great theories each assign the operation of their favourite cause, a third, totally independent of either, must be added to account for many of the new formations. This is the action of certain small ma- rine animals, named Zoophites, which may be considered the ants of the ocean. Their industry, in fact, exceeds anything that can be conceived. The substance which they produce, or construct, is called madrepore, or bastard coral, sometimes in larger or smaller masses, or shaped like the branches of trees, and growing like them from stems. Nothing can be more beautifully arranged. Were the ocean for a moment to recede from its bed, this madrepore would be seen like an immense shrubbery, except that it is more regular on its summit, no part being higher than another. Where the tides operate such as on the shores of some of the islands, or between the smaller ones where the depth of water is not great, this singular spectacle is frequently seen. Laying their foundation at the bottom of the ocean, these animals continue working without in- termission, probably for many generations, before their fabric comes near the surface of the sea. Banks of coral are found at all depths and at all distances from the shore. Known at first as reefs and shoals, they soon become islands. They are frequently observed in all stages, some only beginning, others only half constructed, others again finished, or at least brought to the surface of the water ; several without vegetation having yet begun ; and many where soil has accumulated and this process is observed in its infancy. It is more difficult to conceive, however, how this madrepore, which is in itself brittle and branching, becomes converted into solid rock, but the solution is easy. As the fabric ascends, the interstices of this net- work — for such it appears — are filled up by sands from the continual washing of the sea. From the same cause, vast quantities of the coral itself are broken off from the outer parts of the bank, and the loose pieces, added to sea-weed, and the variety of extraneous substances always driven about by the sea, comes in aid of the sand, and in time fill up every cavity, rendering the whole that compact, solid mass required for the foundation of an island. The sand being most easily raised by the flux of the waves, becomes lodged at top. Here, when once above the reach PREFACE. XXi of the water, it soon forms a resting-place for birds. Their dung, feathers, and other matters, carried thither by accident, augment and enrich the soil, preparing it for the reception of roots, seeds, and branches thrown up by the sea, or brought thither by birds. The decomposition of these substances again tend to form a mould in which vegetation thrives. And that great treasure of the tropics, the cocoa-nut, which can remain long in the water without losing its vegetative power, having at length been thrown on such islands, gives birth to the tree which flourishes best in a sandy soil, and thus the naked coral-bank in time becomes the fruitful island, and the habitation of man. That such is the usual process em- ployed by nature, we have many proofs. One is, that the cocoa-nut tree is often found on such islands in a flourishing condition, when there is scarcely any other shrub to be seen. Captain Flinders, in his voyage to Terra Australia, gives an interesting account of a coral reef on the southern coast of New South Wales. Landing on it, and the water being clear round the margin, he distinctly perceived the various figures of wheat sheaves, mushrooms, stags' horns, cabbage leaves, and numberless others, tinged with a variety of colours, all exceedingly beautiful. The general hue, however, is a dirty white. Several projecting masses, called negro heads, were lumps disjointed and standing higher than others, but blackened by exposure to weather ; in these the forms of coral, with the admixture of shells, were clearly dis- tinguishable. The whole may well bear the name of stone-fungus. Many of these islands rise 200 or 300 fathoms, or probably more, near- ly perpendicularly from the bottom of the ocean, the Zoophites having an instinct to work directly upward. Yet it is remarkable, that when ihe surface of the water is attained, they can work no longer, or at least, if not partially covered by that element ; for out of it they soon die. Providence thus, as with everything else, points out the purposes of their existence ; they have certain duties to perform, and those once finished, they cease to have being. Where these islands are more shelving, it arises from the outer and upper, and of course newer, portions of coral being broken oflf by the action of storms from the outer edge, and wash- ed toward the centre of the structure. The islands of the Pacific, in addition to theit formation and numbers, offer much for curiosity and remark in their population. This is pretty extensive, amounting in the whole, according to the best authorities, to 300,000 persons. The principal groups in which they exist, are the Pelew islands, the Ladrones, the Carolines, the Sandwich islands, the Marquesas, the Society islands, the Friendly islands, besides some hundreds of others considerably smaller in extent, or detached. Whence they had their ori- gin, is a fruitful source of contest and conjecture among the learned, and is likely to continue so. The most probable supposition is from the con- tinent of America, in boats driven to sea by stress of weather, unable from want of nautical knowledge to regain that land of which they had lost sight, and thus exposed to the mercy of the wide ocean, drifting they knew not whither ; if fortunate enough to reach an island, there of course they would remain, and in time their posterity become a nation. That such really was the origin of these people is undoubted. Some of the bucaniers found boats thus bewildered off the coast of Peru. Le Maire, inl616, met with a very capacious and sea- worthy double canoe, containing sixteen men and eight or nine women, who did not seem to know where they were, or whither they were going. If only one island was thus peopled, they would soon spread over the others in this ocean XXll PREFACE. by the same means. An instance of the fact occurred in Captain Cook's third voyage, and is related at length in our 271st page. Besides, it is well known to all acquainted with these islands, on what slight occasions • they commit themselves to the mercy of the winds and waves ; if a weaker island be invaded by a stronger ; if two kings or chiefs quarrel so as to proceed to extremities ; or if the life of an individual be sought by a powerful enemy, it is common to resort to this desperate alternative for preserving it. Numbers of these certainly perish ; but others have been more fortunate in reaching spots where their progeny have multiplied. The best informed navigators agree in giving them a common origin. Differences in features, manners, customs, and language are no doubt frequently observed, but the general resemblance is sufficiently obvious ; and, after all, the variations are by no means so great as we met with among the various nations of the continent of Europe. Few traces remain of their American origin in point of language. Resemblances, however, have been traced by diligent inquirers, but even this forms a very trifling objection. Nothing, it appears from experience, is more liable to change than language, not merely in barbarous and un- settled, but in polished tongues, as we know from the transformations experienced throughout those of Europe. The Latin, for instance, has given birth to the Italian, French, Spanish, and Portuguese, and some part of our own, all differing in every point from their source, yet the origin is undoubted. A considerable mixture of the Malay tongue is likewise said to prevail in most of the Polynesian islands. Their speech is in general soft, well modulated, of tolerable compass, abounding in vowels, and judging from the facility with which it has been caught by our seamen, not difficult of being acquired. The pronunciation, however, often differs both in the names of things and places ; and, to obviate this defect, the missionaries, who have had the best means of becoming familiar with the subject, give the following rules : 1st. When a single vowel forms or closes a sylable, a is sounded as in father ; e ' as in equal ; o as in open ; u as in duty. Sdly. When two vowels come together, ae has the same sound as the adverb ay ; ai is sounded as in fail ; au as in autumn ; ei has the sound of i long ; for which this improper dipthong has, from the first, been substituted in names that are now become too familiar to be altered, as in Otaheite, Eimeo, Huaheine, &c. 00 is sounded as in the adverb too, for a similar reason ; ou as in our ; and oehas the same sound with oy in English words, as in joy, &c. All other combinations of vowels are to be pronounced, according to the preceding rules, in distinct syllables. 3dly. When any single vowel is followed, in the same syllable, by a consonant, it has its shortest sound, as in matter, giftj otter, upward. 4thly. Every consonant, single vowel, or dipthong, uniformly retains a distinct and appropriate sound, subject to the preceding rules. The letters w and y are, therefore, used only as consonants ; g is always hard ; and th is always sounded as in think. The e is never mute. Thus Otaheite is to be pronounced so as to rhyme with the adjective mighty. 5thly. That syllable on which the strongest emphasis is to be place'i PREFACE. SOCm u marked as a long syllable, (so Tongataboo, Ohittahoo,) when the words first occur ; but this distinction, agreeably to rule 4th, indicates no other change in the sound of the vowels over which it is placed. As the point of language is one of essential importance to those who may visit the South Seas, or to those who read for information, it may be necessary to state that their alphabet consist of only seventeen letters. With these, however, they express themselves with precision and facihty. Their pronouns are remarkable, differing according to the number of persons spoken of ; we signifying two only ; we two out of three in com- pany ; we an indefinite number — have each a distinct pronoun, specifically marking the person. A comparison of structure being, however, both more explanatory and useful, the following is added for general information : Enelish. Otaheite. New Zealand. New Holland. New Guinea. A chief. . . Earee . . . Eareete Latieuo A man . . . Taata . . . Taata . . . Bama or MuUa A woman . . Ivahine . . Whahine . . Din .... Fazzi The head . . Eupo . . . Eupo . . . Wageegee . Ea The hair . . Roouzou . . Macauwe . . Morye . . . Nihouge The ear . . Terrea . . . Terringa . . Melea . . . Talingan The forehead Erai . . • Ezai . . . Gaul-lo . . PossonAzough The eyes . . Mata . . . Mata . . . Meul . . . Matta The cheeks . Paparea . . Paparinga Paring The nose . , Ahew . . . Ahewh . . . Bonjoo . . . Nisson The mouth . Otou . . . Hangartou . Kan-ga The chin Ecouwai . . Wal-lo The arm . . Rema . . . Hazingazingu Acol . . . Pong liman The finger . Maneow . . Maticaza . . Da-za-gallie . The belly . . Oboo . . . Ateraboo . . Bar-zong . . Balang The navel . . Peto . . . Apeto . . . Toolpoor . . Come hither . Harromai . . Harromai . . Cow-e . . . Nutifay Fish. . . . Eyea . . . Heica Hissou A lobster . . Toouza . . Roouza Cozze Cocoa . . . Tazo . . . Tazo . . . Mazacotu . . Lamas Sweet potatoesCumala . . Cumala Yams . , . Tuphwhe . . Tuphwhe : Oufi Birds . . . JIannu . . . Mannu Onfa No . . . . Ouze . . . Raouza . . . Beall . . . Eay One .... Tahai . . . Tahai Tika Two . . . Rua .... Rua Roa Three . . . Tozow . . . Tozow Tola Four . . . Hea ... Ha Fatta Five . . . Rema . . . Rema Lima Six ... . Ono . . . Ono Wamma Seven . . . Hetu . . . Etu Fita Eight . . . Warou . . . Warou .' Wala Nine . . . Heva . . . Iva Sivoa Ten . . . Ahouzou . . Angahouzou ...... Sanga-foula The teeth . . Nihio . . . Hennihew Ysang The wind . . Mattai . . . Mehou A thief . . . Teto . . . Amootoo To examine . Mataitai . . Mataketake To sing . . Heiva . . . Eheara Adoua Bad .... Eno . . . Renou . . . Wee-re Trees .' . . Ezaou . . . Ezatou Talil In addition to the preceding, which may be consulted for the sake of comparison by the curious and scientific, some additions are judged ne- cessary of important words, useful to the practical navigator in the supply of his wants, or for facilitating general intercourse with the natives. XXIV PREFACE. OTAHEITE. Booa Moa - - Euree - Eure-eure Oozoo - Hearee - Mia - - Faee Mora - Mattow - Mow Toura - Eupea - Miti - - Pazoree Ehaha - - Ewy Hedede - - - - Eora .... Emattee - - - Ehuff6 .... Etete-do - . . Eraei-te - . - Eputa - . - - Eawa-tere - . - Epo He-kye .... Eenu6 -. - - - Emarangi - - - Esow-howoo-doo Etonga .... Etehu - . . - Etaka - . . . A hog Maa - . - - To eat A fowl Inoo ... - To drink A dog Harre ... . Togo Iron Arrea ... - To stay Bread-fruit Ete- - - - - To understand Cocoa-nuts Worride - - . To be angry Bananas Teparahi - - . To beat Wild plantains A duck Roa . . - . Tall Poto . . . - Short A fish-hook Waroido - « - To steal A shark Nehenne - . . Sweet A rope Mala-mala . . Bitter A net Pia- . . . . FuU Good Timahah . - -Heavy Hungry Mama - . « . Light NEW ZEALAND. Fire Epono . . - To tell truth Water Ewaka • . - A canoe Hatred E-de-ding-ee - To sell Health Eomi ... . To give Sick, or dead Eka-ou . - - To swim Love Rak6 - - . - Satisfied To see My-ty- . . - Good To taste Mackrowa - - Bad Sun-rise Ewy-you- - . Milk Noon Pah-hee - - - A ship Sun-set Ewharr6- . . A house To eat Ea-wha - - - A harbour To drink Emoki - - - To work North Ewhatu - . - Star South Ematangee . - Wind East E-hua - . - - Rain West Emmahane6 . Hot To tell a lie Makaradee . - Cold KING GEORGE'S SOUND, N. W. Coast Cauts-hock Co-OS . Elseet - Luk-sheet Maa-kook Nah-heir Jah-putz E-oo-mer How-whilk One. . Two . Three . Four Five . Six . . Seven . Eight . Nine Ten. . Clothing A man Fish Fresh water Trade, or barter Give me A canoe ' To eat A friend Qua-quaaker > Qui-aslzik - Sloot's-man - Tsi-kiminny - Sikets-sko • Etts-auk . • Kow-iltz . • Jah-poaks King George's Sound. Saw-wak . . Atla. . . . Catsa . . . Mo ... . Socha . . . Nopo . . . Atlapo . . . Atlaqudsh . . Saw-aquash . High-ho . . Numerals Salamoti's Islands. laci . . Loua . Tolou . Fa . . Lima . Houve . Fito . . V-alo . Ivvou . Ongefoula of Caroline Islands. . Iota . . Rua. . Toloo . Tia . . Leema . Honoo . Fizoo . Warrow . Heevo . Segga OF America. • The sea beaver A wolfs skin A woman Iron A rope Wood To steal Copper or brass 'Pelew Islands. . Tong . Oroo . Othey . Oang . Aeem . Malong , Oweth . Tei . Etew . Mackoth PREFACE. Patagonia pronunciation guttural. Calemi . . . . Young Gialerae . . . Fire Her . . . . . Head Holi .... Water Oter . . . . . Eye Arc ... Sea Or . . . . . Nose Oni .... Wind Ani . . . . . Wolf Ohone . . . Hurricane Cache . . . . Goose Mechiere . , . To eat Hoi . . . . . Fish Ohomagse . . To fight Siameni . . OysCer Terrecai . . . Cloth Conne . . . . To look Theu .... Snow Hai . . . . . To come Holl . . . . A dog Rei . . . . . To go Irocoles . . .To cook XX? Capac .... Root used as bread The government of most of the South Sea islands is an hereditary monarchy, under whom are many inferior chiefs, independent, or nearly so, in their several districts, but all subject to the orders and power of the king. Rebellions, however, are frequent against his power, arising either from his oppression, or the ambition and power of some of the chiefs. The royal person is commonly held sacred in ordinary times. He has his peculiar attendants, his houses, his lands, his revenues, besides taking from others what he may think proper, for his will is the only guide for the amount of these forced contributions. In a period of war the chiefs are obliged to attend the king with all the fighting men of their districts ; with canoes, if there be any expedition to another island on foot ; and with supplies of arms and provisions. Sometimes refractory chiefs refuse to attend the king's summons, instances of which continually occur in all the islands ; but it is only the very powerful that dare do this. The weaker are punished for their remissness. Next in rank to the chiefs are their younger brothers, tayos, or friends. These have the care of the more scattered possessions of their superiors, receive and make use of the products for themselves, on condition of oc- casionally entertaining the principal chief on his excursions, or when scarcity prevails at his usual residence.. Added to these are others still lower in the scale of rank, down to the toulous, or servants, each of whom •has some interest in the produce of the ground. The power of the chiefs extends also to the sea-side in preventing fishing in certain places except for his own use, but this power is seldom exercised except on verv particular occasions. The lowest class perform all the labours requirea by the chief with seeming willingness, but their services are by no means constant. They are generally well treated ; and if they please, may change chiefs and districts at any time. Custom, not fear, is the reason of their respect and attachment. They are at all times admitted as com- panions rather than inferiors. A stranger can discover little external difference between them. The king is in constant communion with the lowest of his subjects, and never treats them with the least distance or haughtiness of manner. It is remarkable, however, that with all this apparent equality, the difference of ranks is so substantial, that a low man can never, by any exercise of talents or bravery, become a principal chief; while the latter, for the same reason, though despoiled of his district and command, can never sink, in rank or respect, to an inferior condition. Any of the king's servants may serve him, and quit his service when they think proper, all they receive in return, being, indeed, the only wants known in such a life, are food and a cloth round their middle ; the climato requiring no other clothing. Tradition and some few land-marks form the onlv dependence of landed 3 XXVI PREFACE. property, but these are quite sufficient for the purpose. No attempt is made to infringe on the rights of another, as this would be considered the height of baseness and injustice. Bequests on a death-bed are good ; and when there are witnesses, which is almost always the case, never disputed. Hospitality is their great virtue. Poverty is not contemptible ; but'cove- tousness is commonly a great reproach, so that t\tcy who are guilty of it are attacked by the whole neighbourhood, and their property destroyed. An Otaheitan, particularly, will give everything he has in the world, sooner than be called peere poere, or stfngy ; at least this was their characteristic, but as they improve in civilization,, property is less readily parted with. Their religion is like that of nearly all people ignorant of the blessings of Christianity, a system of polytheism. Each family has its guardian spirit, a figure cut in wood, and set up to be worshipped at the burying- place. Above these are another kind, and superior to all, the Great Spirit, born of night, whose favour is courted only on extraordinary occasions, common affairs being considered beneath his notice. And it is not a little remarkable that in Otaheite there are Tane, te Medooa, the father ; Oromattow, toca tec te Myde, God in the son ; Taroa, Mannoo te Hooa, the Llrd, the spirit. They firmly believe in a future state, saying that no one perishes or becomes extinct. Punishments after death arc not credited ; but degrees of eminence admitted according as persons have acted correctly in the sight of the deity. Every sickness or serious accident is considered a judgment of Ph-Qvidence ; an offering is, therefore, made to avert the evils attendant on the supposed transgression. The priests, though numerous, have abundance of employment in births, deaths, sickness, and feasts, being physicians in addition to their cleric^.l functions. They possess great power, and are much dreaded, as being thought capable of inflicting or removing diseases, and even, on some occasions, producing death itself. The most horrible rite is that of human sacrifices. The victims are of the lowest class of the people, and always slain treacherously. When dead, the body is carried to the m'orai or burying-ground, where the eyes are scooped out and offered to the king, who always attends on such an occasion, and is supposed to derive pecuhar virtue from this horrible donation of the principal organ of the deceased. The colour of the islanders is naturally an olive, but the sun and use of oil render the majority something darker. The women, taking moni care of themselves, display their proper hue, and are generally distin- guished for many feminine characteristics as well as now and then for beauty. The men are, in general, larger than Europeans ; and both sexes live to an old age, if not given to debauchery. The dress of both is two or three pieces of cloth, thrown over or wound round the body, bat frequently a single rag round the middle forms the only covering. The women uncover their shoulders and breasts in presence of a chief, or in passing the moral. Neither are they often permitted to eat with the men. Tattooing is general. The operation is painful, but so great is the orna- ment in their eyes, that the girls, though struggling and screeching under it, persist in being thus adorned? Garlands of flowers are common to both men and women. Children are seldom chidden and never beaten ; their passions are, therefore, never attempted to be controlled, and this is, probably, one reason why savages in general give way to them so readily. Their ingenuity in constructing their implements, canoes, ornaments, and other wants, is very great. All are good judges of the weather. When out of sight of land they steer by sun, moon, or stars, but their voyages *re necessarily very short, or these guides would be of little use. THE VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD FERDINAND MAGLIANES, OR MAGELLAN, THE FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATOR. 1519-23. CoLUMSUs appears to have been the first who imagined the practicability of sailing round the world, and he left Spain for that purpose ; but the intervention of the western continent stopped his progress, and the honour of completing his design was obtained by Ferdinand Magellan, commander in an expedition fitted out by the Spanish government. Magellan was by birth a Portuguese, descended from a good family, and born toward the end of the fifteenth century. His youth was oc- cupied in maritime affairs, and we find him in early life serving up- ward of five years in the Indian Seas, as an otiicer in the squadror commanded by the Portuguese admiral, Albuquerque. For his services on those seas, Magellan applied to the government for some recompense ; but this being treated with neglect, he left his own country to seek employment in a foreign land. In company with Ruy Falero, an eminent astronomer, and one of his associates, he tra- velled into Spain, and explained to Charles V., the reigning monarch, his project of making discoveries in distant seas. The Portuguese am- bassador denounced Magellan and his companion as deserters, and vilely depreciated their courage and capacity, at the same time privately offer- -ing them pardon and rewards, if they would return and serve their native prince. Cardinal Ximenes was then at the head of the Spanish ministry ; and the court, now tolerable judges of naval affairs, listened to the ad- venturers, creating them knight of the order of St. James, and adjusting terms to their advantage and satisfaction. Magellan's idea was, that a passage might be found to the South Sea by some stiait or opening on the American coast — that what Columbus had asserted of the possibility of discovering a passage to the East ' Indies by the west, would be found true in point of fact. If this were accomplished, the profits of both Indies would revert to Spain, as the pope's grant conceded to Spain all countries west of the Atlantic, and any discovery made from the west would fall within the terms of it. It was stipulated that the undertakers should have a twentieth part of the profits with t!ie government, to them and their heirs, of the places to bo discovered, and the title of king's lieutenant. Magellans little squadron coftsisted of five ships — the Trinidad, having on board Gomez, an experienced Portuguese pilot ; the Santa Viitoria, under Lorenzo Mendo..a ; the St. Antonio, commanded by Juan do Carthagcna ; the St. Jago, of which Juan Serrano was captain ; and 28 VOYAGES ROUND THE WaRLI>. tliG Conception, under Gaspar de Quixida. These ships were manned with two hundred and thirty-seven men, and among them were thirty Portuguese, on whose matured skill the admiral placed his chief depen- dence. Their supply of provisions, ammunition, and stores, was on au estimate of two years. From the first, great hopes were entertained of this voyage, and the men in general embarked with singular alacrity, elate with the prospect of JoadintT themselves with gold. Their ultimate destination was a secret j the admiral liad only signified to his people, in general terms, that he was going ir^ search ofundiseovered countries. On the 1st o:" August, 1519, they loft Seville, and on the 27th of Sep- tember sailed from Sanlucar, steering for the Canaries. They refreshed at Teneriffo, and early in October passed the Cape de Verd islands. Thoy were leng in sight of the coast of Guinea and Sierra Leone, detained by tedious cahm. and here they savv a number of birds and fishes with Tvhich they were totally unacquainted. They held on their course, bear- ing along the coast of Africa, till they crossed the line, seventy days after their departure. In the beginning of December the admiral came to that part of Brazil which now is called the Bay of St. Lucia. Here they landed on plain, low lands, and remained in the bay till December 27th, having had fre- quent intercourse with the natives. Some days subsequently to this, the admiral anchored his squadron at the mouth of a large river, supposed to be the Rio Janeiro. The inhabitants were olive-coloured, and flocked to the beach in great numbers, beholding, as they imagined, five sea mon- sters approaching the shore. When the boats put out from the ships, the natives set up a great shout, conceiving them to be young sea monsters, the offspring of the others. On the Spaniards landing, a commercial intercourse took place, and the natives frequently went off to the ships in their canoes. Provii&ons and refreshments of various kinds were in such abundance, that for a knave out of a pack of cartas six fowl were gladly given in e.vchange. Here they continued about a fortnight. In some parts of Brazil where they landed, they found fruits, sugar canes, and different sorts of animals in great abundancp ; and in the largest of seven i^-lands, at the mouth of a great river, they found a quantity of jewels : they gave it the name of St. Mary. Coasting onward toward the south, they discovered two islands so full of seals and penguins, that in an hour they could have catched a num- ber .sufficient to load all their ship. The penguins are a large black fowl, with a bill like a raven's : they are reniarkably fat, covered with down instead of feathers, and live entirely upon fish. Proceeding along the South American coast, thoy arrived at an immense river, conceived to be that since called La Plata. The St. Jago was sent to examine whether there was any passage through it. That vessel was absent fifteen days : she went up twenty-five leagues, and brought the notice that the river turned toward the north. During this interval Magellan himself, with two other ships, had rua along the coast twenty leagues to the south. After these inquiries the squadron proceeded, sailing along the shore till they arrived, in April, 1520, at a large bay, now called by the name o1 St. Julian. Here, for the first (some accounts say the second) time, they saw a wild, gigantic race, of great fierceness, who made a roaring not «»like that of bulls. At first the Spaniards thought the country unin- MAGELLAN. 29 habite<], till after an interval of some weeks they saw a savage come singing and dancing toward them. When arrived on the beach he threw dust on his head, and some of the sailors going on shore and performing the same ceremony, he went on board with them v/ithout scruple. His stature was such ihat a middle-sized man would reach but iiitle above his waist, and his whole figure was strong in proportion. His hair was white, his body painted yellow, and he had a stag's horn drawn on each cheek. Round his eyes were great round circles, and his covering was the skin of some animal that resembled a camel in shape, with the ears of a mule and the tail of a horse. He was armed with a bow, the string of which was made of the guts of the same beast, and the heads of his arrows were ti])ped with sharp stones. When conclucted to Magellan he pointed to the sky, as if to inquire whether the Spaniards had descended thence. The admiral entertained him to his satisfaction ; but happening to cast his eyes on a looking-glass, he was so terrified or agitated that, starting backward, he beat to the ground two men who stood behind him. The civil treatment this man received induced others to come on board, whose behaviour afforded great entertainment to the officers. One of them ate a basket full of ship biscuits, and drank a large bowl of water at a meal. The natives, as before observed, were much larger than Europeans : and their bodies painted with various figures ; they carried bows and arrows, and were clad in garments made of the skins of beasts. They wore sandals, or a kind of shoe made also of skins, and this caused their feet to appear like those of an animal. Magellan named them Pata,- goncs, from the S{)anish word fata^ signifying a hoof or paw. These Patagons, or Patagonians, had no fixed place of abode, but wandering about erected for themselves a hovel or kind of hut, made of skins like those which covered their bodies. Their chief food was raw flesh, and a certain sweet root called Capar. It is reported of them, that if they are ill, they take emetics, or bleed themselves, by chopping the part affected with some instrument. Magellan determined to continue here till the return of spring, as it is winter in the southern hemisphere during our summer. He h^d ordered the allowance of provi-sions to be shortened, to meet this exigence, which caused much discontent among the crews. The captains of three ships conspired against the life of the admiral, having had several altercations with him during the voyage. It was represented that the King of Spain did not expect them to accomplish impossibilities, that they had already proceeded farther than any other vessels, and they proposed that the fleet should return immediately to Europe. As Magellan persisted in his de- termination to execute his original intention, a mutiny was the conse- quence, which was not quelled till Captain Lewis de Mendoza, being brought to a trial, was hanged, and Captain Juan de Carthagena, and some others with him, were sent on shore, to be left among the Patagonianaf. Before they quitted the station, they took solemn possession of the country by the erection of a cross. Five dreary months were passed in the harbour of St. Julian, during which every possible exertion was made to insure the successful prose- cution of the voyage. Before they quitted it, Magellan was guilty of a notorious breach of hospitality toward two of the natives. Wishing to convey them into Spain, as objects of curiosity, he practised a stratagem to hinder them from availing themselves of their superior strength. First presenting them with knives, beads, and toys, so as completely to fill their 3* 30 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. hands, some bright iron rings and shackles were shewn to them, and as their hands were full, Magellan proposed to put them on their legs. Con- ceiving them to be ornaments, and pleased with their jingling sound, they unsuspectingly assented, until they found themselves fettered and betrayed. They then struggled, but in vain, to liberate themselves, and gave vent to their feelings, by bellowing in a most frightfal manner. Soon after this act of duplicity, the natives attacked a party of Spaniards that were on shore, and killed one of them. Magellan, in revenge, sent oil" twenty men with orders to pursue the natives in every direction, and to take or kill every one they should find. After a search for eight days, they returned, without accomplishing their object, all the Indians having retired into the interior of their country. On the 24th of August, 1520, the squadron again set sail, the weather being fine, and they proceeded on their passage southward, till a violent gale from the east drove one of their vessels, commanded by Juan Ser- rano, on shore, but happily the crew and cargo were saved. With the four rem-aining ships, Magellan entered a river about thirty leagues from St. Julian, where, in a convenient part, he found plenty of wood, water, and fish, and in expectation of a better season, he remained in that station till the 18th of October. Putting again to sea, and still coasting southward, they discavered, on the festival of the Eleven Thousand Virgins, a cape to which they affixed that name. Near this cape an opening was discovered by the Vittoria, which was found afterward to be a strait, and received its name from the ship. Upon this, Magellan gave orders that all the other ships should carefully examine the strait, promising to wait for them a certaiu number of days. While the three vessels were employed in this expedi- tion, one of them, commanded by Olivarey Misquitos, his cousin, was driven out of the strait by the reflux of the tide, when the crew, dissa- tisfied with their situation, rose on the captain, made him prisoner, and again set sail on their return to Europe. One of the other two ships had discovered a large bay, obstructed with rocks and shoals, but the other had sailed on three days, without any interruption ; and from the depth of the water, the height of the mountains on each side, and their observations on the tides, there was every reason to believe that this pas- sage was a strait by which a communication was opened between the Atlantic and Indian Oceans. Notwithstanding these promising appearances, Magellan waited for Misquitos' ship for several days beyond the time he had fixed, when, after a consultation with the other commanders, he entered that strait or arm of the sea which has ever since retained his name. The entrance lies in 52 degrees south latitude, and the strait, which is about 110 leagues in length, is very wide in some places, and in others not more than half a league from shore to shore. On both sides the land was high and irregular, and the mountains were found to be covered with snow, en advancing about 50 leagues west from the entrance. In several places, however, the lower lands near the shore were clad with trees and verdure, and presented on each side a number of beautiful and picturesque scenes. In about six weeks from their entering this passage, they found them- selves again in an open sea, the coast terminating v^^estward in a cape, and the shore of the continent taking a northerly direction. The sight of the Pacific Ocean, or great South Sea, gave Magellan the utmost joy, he being the first European who sailed upon it. Magellan came to the end of the strait, and entered it on the 28ih of November, 1520. MAGELLAN. ^1 Magellan w-aa desirous of stopping here, for the purpose of refreshing his men, but the natives were so addicted to thieving, that he was obliged to repress their depredations by force. Flocking on board the ships in iraraense numbers, they endeavoured to carry off everything within their reach, and they even seized one of the boats. Magellan, in revenge, landed with ninety of his men, killed a number of the inhabitants, set tire to their houses, and to stigmatize these islands, called them Islas de las Ladrones, or the islands of Thieves and Robbers. The people were of an olive complexion ; the men went naked, except a few, who wore a kind of bonnet on their heads, made of the leaves of the palm tree. Their hair was black and very long, reaching down to the waist. They anointed their bodies with the oil of the cocoa-nut, and stained their teeth black or red. The women wore coverings made of the inner bark of the palm tree ; they were much handsomer than the •men, and had long, thick, black hair, which reached almost to the ground. While the men were abroad, the women employed themselves at home in making nets and mats of the palm tree. Their beds consisted of palm mats laid one upon another. The weapons of these islanders \^ere clubs, on which they had fixed heads of horn. Their food consisted of fowls, flying-fish, figs, bananas, and cocoa-nuts. The sails of their canoes were mnde of broad date leaves, sewed together, and their boats were con- trived so as to sail with either end foremost. In general, the people were painted all over either black, white, red, or some other colour. They sailed from the Ladrones on the 10th of March, and next day went ashore at an uninhabited island called Humuna, to which the admi- ral gave the name of ** Good Sighs ;" and here they found excellent water and abundance of fruit trees, with some gold and white coral. During their stay, they were visited by the people of a neighbouring island, Zulvan, who brought them presents of fish, and wine made from the juice of the cocoa-nut. They invited the admiral into their barks, and being invited in return on board the ships, a great gun was fired in compliment to them, which was, so terrifying, that the visiters with great difficulty were persuaded to stay on board. The natives had also in their canoes several kind of spices, and diffe- rent , ornaments made of gold, which they were accustomed to sell as merchandise. In person they were short and thick, of an olive colour, with gold and jewels in their ears, and pieces of gold fastened to their arms ; they had also daggers, knives, and lances, ornamented with the same metal. Their chief clothing was a species of cloth round the mid- dle, made from the inner bark of some tree, but the principal persons wero distinguished by a piece of silk needle-work wrapped about their heads. The Spaniards continued at this island somewhat more than ten days, during which they recovered, in a great measure, from the effects of their late sufferings ; they were likewise enabled to lay in a considerable store of provisions, wood, and water, for the supply of the ships. They left the place on ihe 25th of March, and sailing W. S. W., arrived on the 28th at another island, which Magellan calls Buthuan, but which is not marked in the modern maps. Two of his ofScers went on shore, and were introduced to the king, in a building like a great hay-loft, thatched with palm leaves, and elevated so high on posts of timber, that there was no access to it but by ladders. The king coming on board, presented Magellan with a quantity of gold and spices, and the admiral gave him in return two garments of cloth, made in the Turkish fashion, one red and the other yellow, and among those of his retinue he distri- 32 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. buted knives, glasses, and crystal beads. At their meals the natives sat cross-legged, and instead of candles, burnt the gum of a tree wrapped up in palm leaves. In his person, the king was comely, his hair black and long, and his complexion olive ; he had gold rings in his ears, and three on each finger ; his head was covered with a silken veil, and a piece of cotton wrought with silk and gold hung down to his knees ; he wore a dagger with a handle of gold, the scabbard being of wood, hollowed, and finely carved. The men were naked, but painted ; the women had a covering, though only from the waist downward ; they had also gold ear-rings. They were frequently seen to eat a fruit like a pair, cut in slices, and rolled up in leaves like a bay leaf. Leaving this place, the king's pilots conducted them to the isles of Zeilon, Zubut, Messana, and Caleghan. In Messana they found dogs, cats, hogs, poultry, goats, rice, oranges, wax, and gold. From Messana, the king bearing them company, they sailed to Lubut, distant attbut seventy leagues, and entered the port on the 7th of April, when they fired their great guns, to the great terror of the inhabitants. The King of Messana went on shore, and so represented matters, as to the peaceable intentions of the Spaniards, that the King of Lubut waived the demand of tribute, and offered terms of friendship to Magellan. Then he and his nephew, with the King of Messana, went on board the admiral, after which Magellan visited the king on shore, and found him sitting on a fine mat made of date leaves, with a roll of cotton about his waist. On his head he had a veil of needle- work, a chain of gold about his neck, and jewels in his ears. Before him there lay a number of China vessels, some filled with eggs, and others with date wine. For their entertain- ment, the king made his daughters dance and sing naked before them. The people had the use of weights and measures, and are represented as being remarkably just in all their dealings. Their houses were of timber, at some height above the ground, so that the ascent to them was by stairs. Magellan pursuaded the king and his principal subjects to embrace the Christian religion, and their baptism was performed with great solemnity. The king was named Charles, and the prince Ferdinando ; at the same time the queen and forty ladies were baptized, and among them the prince's wife, who was young and beautiful. Her head was adorned with a triple crown of date leaves, and her body was covered with a white cloth. On the conclusion of the ceremony, and after hearing mass, the king any his principal people dined on board the admiral's ship, in honour of which visit all the great ordnance was discharged. About five hun- dred persons of inferior rank were likewise baptized, and in eight days time, the whole body of natives, except the inhabitants of one village, followed their example ; whereupon the Spaniards burnt the village, and erected a cross upon the ruins of it. The idols throughout the island were destroyed, and crosses set up in many places. In their traffic with the people, the Spaniards had many advantages, receiving ten pesos of gold in exchange for fourteen pounds weight of iron, and considerable supplies of provisions for any kind of toys. From Lubut, or Lebu, one of the Philippine islands, in the neighbour- hood of which they continued several weeks, they sailed to the Island of Mathan, the inhabitants of which offered hogs as sacrifices to the sun, two aged matrons acting as priestesses, singing and dancing about the animal_ and sounding a kind of trumpet made of reeds. After several prayers to Magellan. 33 ihc sun, V?ith antic gestures, one of the wonren struck the hog dead with a lance, and put a lighted lanvp into its mouth, which continued burniivg during the ceremony. Their funeral cerenronies were likewise very curi- ous ; all the principal women sitting round the corpse of any chief, &c., five days successively, clothed in white cotton. Til's hair of the de- ceased person was cut off, after which tho widow-surtg a meiTy ev)ng, &c. The Island of Mathan being governed by two kings, and one of them refusing to pay tribute to the King of Spain, Magellan prepared to reduce him. The king desired to be on good terms with the Spaniards, and had sent them a present of provisions. As to obedience, he would owe none to strangers, of whom he had never before heard. Magellan was accompanied liy sixty Europeans, armed with coats of mail and helmets, and attended by the Kingof Lcbu, with a luimber of his subjects in canoes. Confident in the superior courage and weapons of his men, Magellan declined the assistance of tlie king, fiud marched to some distance into the interior of the island. Here he was attacked by three distinct bodies of the islanders, in front and on each flank. Their united force amounted to upward of six thousand ; their arms were t)Ows, arrows, darts, and javelins. The battle was for some time doubt- ful, till the admiral's impetuosity carrying him too far, he was wounded in the leg with a poisoned arrow, and his helmet being beaten off his head with stones, and being also wounded in the right arm, so that he could not use his sword, he was brought to the ground, then stabbed through the body wit^i a spear, and a lance thrust into his head. Eight or nine of the Spaniards and fifteen of the Indians were also slain. The Spaniards would have redeemed tire body of their commander, but the Indians refused to part with it. The King of Lebu, who had embraced the Christian faith, now re- tiounced it, and, in concert with his late rival, the King of Mathau, laid a plan for the destruction of the Spaniards. Those of them who remained on Jihore were invited to an entertainment, where, during the repast, they were all murdered, evccpt Don Juan Serrano, whom they kept, in hopes of getting a ransom for him ; this the Spaniards on board would readily have given, but they discovered so much prevarication in the behaviour «f the King of Lebu, that, dreading the fate of their companions, they determined to put to sea. When Serrano saw them about to weigh anchor, he fell en his knees, imploring their interposition, in the most moving manner, tha.t he might not be left among the savages ; but their fears, as their whole force ©mounted to only one hundred and fifteen jnen, made them deaf to his entreaties, and what became of him afterward was never known. New commanders were chosen from among the surviving officers, and as the ships were now^ in a very bad condition, it was found necessary to make use of one, the Conception, to repair the other two, into which the men, ammunition, and provisions, were transferred. This was at the Island of Bohol. One principal object of this expedition had been, to reach the Molucca islands by a westerly course from Europe. Before his death, Magellan had ascertained that they were not far from the Philippines, and his surviving companions now agreed to proceed in search of them. , Sailing from Bohol, or Buhol, in N. lat. 9° 30', and steering to the S.W., they came to Chipper, a large island about fifty leagues from Lu- but, in 8 deg. N. lat., and 170 dcg. W. longitude from their first setting out. The island abouiKled with rice> ginger, goats, hogs, &c. The king 34 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. received the Spaniards in a friendly manner, drawing the blood fro-rn hig right arm and marking bis body, face, and the tip of his tongue with it, in token of peace. In this ceremony he was followed by the Spaniard's. Here all the men, ammunition, and stores were landed, and about forty days were occupied in repairing and refitting the ships. Sailing W. and S.W. 40 leagues from hence, they came to Caghaian, a hrge island, but thinly inhabited, by Mahometans, a kind of exiles from Borneo, who had great quantities of gold, and made use of pointed ar- rows. Hence they sailed to Puloan, an island abounding in fig^, bata- tos, cocoas, and sugar canes. The people went naked, used poisoned arrows, and were greatly addicted to the cruel sport of cock-Hghting. Their chief drink was a kind of wine (arrack) made of riee^ and which was found to be very intoxicating. From Puloan they came to the rich Island of Borneo, the chief city of which contained twenty thousand houses. 1'iie king, who was a Maho- metan, kept a magnificent court ; be sent two elepnants adorned with silk to bring the Spanish messenger (with their presents) to his palace, and afterward he dismissed them with valuable presents. When his subjects approached the king, they lifted their hands close together three times over their heads, then lifted up each foot, and lastly kissed their hands. The island abounded in cattle, fowls, melons, cucumbers, sugar, lemons, oranges, mirabolans, ginger, camphor, and rice ; of which last they make great quantities of arrack. From Borneo they sailed to Cimbubon, where they v/ere detained forty days in repairing their ships and taking in wood and water. Os- triches, hogs, and crocodiles were found here in great numbers, and they took a fish whose head resembled that of a hog, but with horns on it ; the body appeared to be an entire bone, and the back was shaped like a saddle. Bendhig their ccurse hence to the S. E. for the Moluccas, they came to the islands of Solo Taghima, whence the King of Borneo had received two pearls nearly as big as hens' eggs. Pursuing their course from hence, they arrived at the Island of Sa- rangani, where they pressed two pilots for the Mohiccas. In this voyage they came to a beautiful island called Sanger, governed by four kings, and on the 6th of September, in the twenty-seventh month after their departure from Spain, they discovered five islands, which the pilots pronounced to b« the Moluccas. The Portuguese had described them a3 situated among rocks and shelves, surrounded continually with dark, thick fogs, and the shores so shallow that it was dangerous sailing near them. In sailing through the Archipelago, the Spaniards had taken possession of some junks, in one of which they found the son of the King of Luzon, whom the commander set at liberty, without consulting the rest of the company. In approaching one of the chief of the Moluccas, they sounded and found the depth of water full a hundred yards, and on the 8th of No- vember, before sun-rise, ihey came to anchor in the port of Tirridore, or Tidor. The king of the island was a Moor or Mahometan ; he gave the Spaniards a kind reception, calling them his brethren and children, and a friendly intercourse was opened for the sale and exchange of merchandise. The king was displeased that the Portuguese had in preference established their fort and factory on the I.^^land of Ternate. Hereby they were enaH'^d to purchase a large stock of sp'.ces, and also to obtain for the shins an abundant supply of provisions. On the island MAGELLAN. 35 ^•as a sort of tree, the bark of which, after being steeped in water, was draa out in fine threads like silks ; these were made into aprons by the women, and worn by them as their only garments. From Tirridore they passed to the great Island of Gilolo, inhabited by Mahometans and Pagans. The latter worshipped the first thing they beheld in the morning. Among other vegetable productions in this island, was a reed about the size of a man's leg, which contained a large quantity of pure water of a very good taste. The Mahometan district was governed by two kings, each of whom had a great number of con- cubmes and children. On the 1 2th of November, a public warehouse being opened for the exchange of Commodities, for every ten yards of red cloth the Spa- niards received one bahar of cloves, bein^ near seventeen hundred weight ; for fifteen yards of a more ordinary cloth, also one bahar ; for thirty-five drinking glasses, one bahar ; and the same quantity for serenteen cathyls of quicksilver. The inhabitants brought provisions to the ship daily, and water from springs on the mountains where the cloves grew. This water is hot when first taken up, but afterward grows cold. A present was sent from the Moluccas for the King of Spain, consisting of two dead birds, about the size of turtles, with long bills, small heads and legs, and for wings two or three feathers only, of different colours, the rest of the body being a light brown. These birds never fly but when the wind blows to assist them. By thcf Mahometans who thought they came down from heaven, Ihey were called " Birds of Paradise. '* The Moluccas were found to be rich in: different productions ; sugar canes, melons, gourds, cloves, ginger, rice, white and red figs, almonds, pomegranates, oranges, and lemons, with another fruit called camdicaly the taste of which was remarkably cold, and a kind of honey made by flies less than ants. There were also poultry, sheep, and goats. When they left the port of Tirridore, they were attended by several kings of the adjacent islands in their canoes, who conducted them to the Isle of Mare, and then took leave of them. The ship Trinidad, however, was unable to keep the' seas, and she was left behind in order to be repaired, to prosecute the remainder of the voyage afterward ; but it appears that she was taken by the Portuguese. And now the Viltoria alone, (forty-six Spaniards and thirteen Indians,) wiih fifty-nine persons on board, set sail for Europe ; J. Sebastian del Eleano had been appointed commander at the Island of Borneo. They passed in sight of Ambuno, (so in the Spanish original,) or Amboyna, and the Banda isles, steering on the outside of Sumatra, and avoiding the Portuguese settlements. At Mallua, which Ues in 8 degrees S. lat., they staid fifteen days to repair the ship. The people were cannibals ; their arms were bows and arrows, and they wore their hair and beards twisted up in canes. Sail- irig hence W. and N. W. in a long course, they came to the Island of Eude, where cinnamon was found growing in great abundance. To double the, Cape of Good Hope with the greater safety, they sailed as lov/ as 42 degrees S. lat., where they were obliged to wait seven weeks for a wind. When they supposed they were approaching the cape, they looked out for land, and discovered part of the coast or coasts of Africa, stretching in a N. E. and S. W. direction ; and on doubling the cape, they were so distressed by hunger and sickness, that, the crew being assembled, many of them proposed to put in at somfi B6 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. port in Africa for refreshment ; but, from a dread of the Portuguese, tha majority resolved on sailing home. This was on the 1st of July, 1522, at the distance of about twelve leagues from the Cape Verd islands. For two months they held on their course to the N. W. without touch- ing at any port, during which they lost twenty-one persons, and the rest were emaciated, and on the point of starvhig. In this situation they arrived at St. Jago, on the Cape de Yerd islands, tvhere they discovered, for the first time, that they differed one whole day in their reckoning of time from the inhabitants of that island. On going ashore, and representing their deplorable circumstances, the Por- tuguese were not backward in relieving their necessities ; but, on a party landing a second time, to purchase some negroes and provisions, and to pay for them with cloves, (clavo,) they were made prisoners, and the rest v/ho were left on board were required to surrender. Sebastian continued to insist on the delivery of his men, a bark be- longing to the island passing and repassing between the ship and the shore ; till at length, suspecting some foul play, he weighed anchor, havi.ng on board only twenty-two men, sick and able. The wind being fair they crowded sail, and on the 4th of September came within sight of Cape St. Vincent. On the 7th, 1522, they entered St. Lucar, with a number now reduced to about eighteen persons. According to their reckoning, tbey had sailed 14,000 leagues, and crossed the equator six times, having been absent three years wanting fourteen days. Of the fifty-nine that sailed from the Moluccas, some had been put t» death on the Island of Timor for bad conduct, thirteen were detained by the Portuguese at St. Jago, and twenty or more died in the passage. At Seville, the ship's company returned thanks to Providence for their aafe return ; and at Valladolid, where the court resided, Eleano and the other principal officers waited on the emperor, with such natives of the distant islands as had survived the voyage, and with the presents aent by their ships. Among these were several Chinese swords and mamucos, with the rare birds, and abundance of rich spices. The emperor, Charles V., bestowed noble rewards on all who had been employed in the expedition, and the whole value of the rich cargo was distributed among them. The leaders he distinguished in a particular manner ; a patent of nobility was granted to Juan Sebastian, and an annual pension of 500 ducats for his life. For his arms the emperor gave him the terrestial globe, with this motto : ' Primus me circumde- disd,' — ' Thou hast first surrounded me.' Sebastian and his companions where honoured by the whole Spanish nation at large ; and the vene- rable bark, the Vittoria, became a worthy subject for the ingenuity of the poets, and as furnishing matter for sundry historical and romancing accounts. The newly discovered strait had at first assumed the name of Vittoria, but it was soon afterward known by the name of Magellan, which it has retained ever since. SIR FRANCIS DRAKE.— 1577-1580. Mb. Drake was first apprentjced to the master of a small vessel trading to France and Zealand ; at the age of eighteen he went purser of a ship to the Bay of Biscay, and at twenty made a voyage to the coast of Guinea. In 1565, he went to the West Indies, and" in 1567, served under his kinsman, Sir John Hawkins, in the Bay of Mexico. Being a SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 37 consl4crable losor by the last two voyages, he made a third in 1570, with two ships, the Dragon and the Swan; and in the following year sailed again to the same parts with the Swan only, with a view to gain such experience and information as might qualify him to undertake some Voyage of mere importance. On the 24th of May, 1572, he sailed from Plymouth in the Pasca, burden seventy tons, in company with the Swan, burden tv/o hundred and fifty tons, commanded by his brother, John Drake, with seventy ^ three men and boys, and provisions for a year. In this voyage he sacked the town of Nombre de Dios, and after- ward from a high tree saw the South Seas, which inspired him with an ardent desire of carrying an English ship thither. Drake was a great gainer by this expedition, but his generosity and love of justice were very extraordinary, an instance of which is worth recording. Having presented a cutlass to a prince of the free Indians inhabiting the Isthmus of Darien, the prince gave him in return four large wedges of gold, which he threw into the common stock, saying, " My owners gave -me that cutlass, and it is but just they should have their share of its produce." In his return to England, Captain Drake sailed from the capes of Florida to the isles of Scilly in twenty-three days, and arrived at Ply- mouth on Sunday, the 9th August, 1573, having been absent one year, two months, and some days. The riches he had acquired he spent with great generosity in the service of his country, fitting out three frigates at his own expense, which he commanded in person, under Walter Earl of Essex, against the rebels in Ireland. After the death of Essex, Drake applied himself to Sir Christopher Hatton, vice-chamberlain to the queen, by whose interest he at lengtli obtained the queen's permission for an expedition against the Spaniards. His friends contributed largely toward this expedition, for which five ships were fitted out. The Pelican, which he named the Hind, burden one hundred tons, commanded by himself ; the Elizabeth of eighty tons, John Winter, captain ; the Marigold, a bark of thirty tons burden, John Thomas, commander ; the Swan, a fly-boat of fifty tons, commanded by John Chester ; and a pinnace of fifteen tons, of which Thomas Moon was the commander. The ships had one hundred and sixty-four able men on board, a large quantity of provisions, together with four pinnaces stowed in pieces, to be put together whenever they might be wanted. It is said that all the vessels for the captain's table, and. many belonging to the cook-room, were of silver, and other furniture on board propor- tionably grand. This fleet sailed out of Plymouth Sound the 5th of November, 1577 ; but meeting with a violent storm, in which several of the ships were damaged, were obliged to put back and refit. On the 13th of December they sailed again with a favourable v?ind, and saw no land till the 25th, when they passed Cape Cantin, on the coast of Barbary ; and on the 27ih, came to the Island of Mogador, lying one mile out at sea, between which and the continent they found a safe harbour, where the admiral gave directions for putting together one of the pinnaces, which they brought from England. While the men were engaged in this busi- ness, some of the inhabitants came down, and making signs of peace, the admiral sent one of his men on shore, whereupon two natives ven- tured on board, and told them, by signs, that the next day they would supply the ships with provisions, for which kind OiTer the admiral gave them linen-cloth shoes and a javelin. The next day they came to the 4 38 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. tea-side, agreeable to their promise, when one of the men, whose namd was Fry, leaped hastily among them, imagining they had been friends, when they seized him, and threatening to stab him if he made any re- sistance, carried him up into the country. The sailors were about to attempt to rescue Fry, but seeing others of the natives appear from places where they hid themselves, were glad to recover their boat, and make off to the ship. The admiral sent a body of men into the country to recover Fry, and punish the treacherous Moors; but they constantly avoided his people; so that after searching in vain^ they returned to the ship, and sailed from the coast of Morocco on the 30th of December. In the meantime Fry. being e.xamined, declared that the fleet consisted of English ships, under the command of Admiral Drake, bound to the straits ; a report which the commander had circulated to conceal his real design ; wheretipon Fry was sent back with presents for the admiral, and an assurance of friend- ship ; but he being sailed, Fry was afterward sent to England in a mer- chant ship. The admiral arriving at Cape Blanco on the 17th of January, found a ship at anchor with only two sailors left to guard her, which he immediately seized, and took her into the harbour, where they remained four days, during which he exercised his men on shore, to prepare them for land as well as sea service. They left this harbour on the 22d, the master of the ba,rk having in- formed the admiral that in one of the Cape de Verd islands, called Mayo, there was plenty of dried cabitos, or goats, which were prepared every year for such of the king's ships as called there. They arrived hero on the 27th of January, but the inhabitants could not trade with them, being forbidden by the king's order, and had left their villages. The next day the admiral landed a body of men, with orders to march into the country, which they found extremely fertile, producing great quantities of cocoas, figs, and a very delicate sort of grapes. This island abounded with salt, dried by the heat of the sun ; and they found many goats and kids, dead and dried, which the inhabitants had laid in their way, but they did not think proper to accept of them. Leaving this place on the Slst, they sailed by the Island of Jago, and seeing two Portuguese vessels under sail, took one laden with wine ; but the admiral detained only the pilot, dis- charging the master and his crew, and giving them some provisions, a butt of wine, their wearing apparel, and one of his own pinnaces. Three pieces of cannon were fired at them from the island, but did them no damage. They arrived the same evening at Del Fucgo, or the Burning Island, so called from a volcano on its north side, from which constantly issues smoke and flame. To the south of Del Fuego they discovered the beautiful island of Brava, covered with evergreens, and watered with cooling streams, which pour themselves into the sea, which is so deep around it, that there is no possibility of coming to an anchor. But some of the sailors going on shore found a poor hermit, whose cell was furnished with an ill-contrived altar, some images badly carved, and a crucifix ; and this man appeared to be the only inhabitant of the place. Quitting this group, they sailed toward the line, being sometimes tossed by tempests, and at others quite becalmed. They saw numbers of dolphins, bonitos, and flying fish, which being pursued by the sharks, frequently flew out of the water, and their fins drying, they dropped on the ships, and were unable to rise again. Having passed the line, they at length discovered the coast of Brazil on the 5th of April, being fifty-four days since they saw land. As soon as SIR FRANCIS DRAfcE. 8^ the people on shore saw the ships, they made large fires in different parts, and performed various ceremonies to prevail on the gods to sink the ves- sels, or at least to prevent their landing. On the 7th, in a storm of Li{2:ht- ning, rain, and thunder, they lost the Christopher, but happily met with her again on the 11th, at a place which the admiral called Cape Joy, where'they found a harbour between a larye rock and the main, in which the ships rode in safety. At this place they found no other inhabitants but herds of wild deer, but the sailors discovered the print of human feet in the sand. . The air was mild, and the soil rich and fertile. They killed several seals on the rock, which they found to be wholesome food, though not extremely pleasant. Having taken in vvater, tiiey sailed for the great River Plate ; where, finding no good harbour, they put to sea again, and came to a good bay, in which were several islands stocked with seals and fowls, and abbunding in fresh water. The admiral going on shore, the natives caine leaping and dancing about him, and seemed cAtreniely willing to trade, but would touch nothing but what was first thrown down on the ground. The Marigold and the Christopher, having been sent to discover a con- venient harbour, returned with the agreeable news that they had found one, whereupon all the fleet sailed thither. The admiral, having no far- ther use for the Swan, ordered her to be burnt, having first divided her provisions and iron work among the rest of the fleet. While they were employed on shore, the natives came to them without fear ; they had a covering made of wild beasts' skins about the middle, wore something wrapped round their heads, and had their faces and bodies painted. They had bows of an ell long, and two arrows each. Two of them being plea- 6ed,wilh the admiral's hat, snatched it of his head, and ran away with it, dividing the prize between them, one taking the hat and the other the lace. Sailing hence, they anchored in port St. Julian, which name was given it by Magellan, where, the admiral going on shore with six of his men, some of the natives slew the gunner, whose death was revenged by the commander, who killed tlie murderer vrkh his own hand. At this place Magellan having executed one of his company who conspired against his life, Drake caused one of the crew named JDoughty to be tried for the the same offence against himself ; and executed him on the same gibbet. On the 17th of August they left the port of St. Julian, and on the 20th fell in with the strait of Magellan, which they entered on the 21st, but found so full of intricate turnings and windings, that the same wind which was sometimes in their favour, was at others against them. This pas- sage is dangerous, for though there is several good harbours and plenty of fresh water, yet the depth of the sea is so groat, that there is no an- choring except in some very narrow river, or between the rocks. On both sides are vast mountains covered with snow to a piodlgious height above the clouds, notwithstanding which the trees and plants near the chore maintain a constant verdure. The breadth of the strait is from one league to four, and the tides rise high from one end to the other. After several difliculties they entered the South Sea on the 6th of September, and on the next day a violent storm drove them two hundred leagues south of the strait, where they anchored among some islands, abounding in water and excellent herbs. On the 3d of October discovered three islands, on one of which was a most incredible number of birds ; and on the 8th, in a storm, lost tiic Elizabeth, Captain Winter, who, being driven back into the strait, took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth, and afterward arii».iJ safe in England. 40 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLt). Being now arrived at the other mouth of the strait, they steered fot the coast of Chili, and on the 29th of November cast anchor at the Island of Mocha) were the admiral, with ten men, went on shore. The inhabi- tants were such as the extreme cruelty of the Spaniards had obliged to seek a refuge here ; and they behaved very civilly, giving the admiral two fat sheep and some potatoes in exchange for some trifling presents. And now continuing their course for Chili, they met an Indian in a canoej who, mistaking them for Spaniards, informed them that at St. Jago there was a large ship laden for Peru. The admiral rewarded him ibi his intelligence, whereupon he conducted them to the pla<*e where the ship lay at anchor. There were only eight Spaniards and three negroes on board, who, mistaking them for friends, welcomed thcmby beat of drum, and invited them to drink Chili wine. Drake accepted the invi- tation, and going on board, put them all un^er hatches, except one, who, leaping overboard, swam on shore to give notice of the coming of the English : upon which, the inhabitants quitting the town, the admiral se- cured his prize, and then going on shore, rifled the town and chapel, from which he took a silver chalice, and other articles. They also found in the town a large quantity of Chili wine, which the admiral sent onboard, and then steered for Lima, the capital of Peru, having first discharged all his prisoners except one, whom he kept for a pilot. Proceeding to sea, the admiral examined the valuts of the booty he had taken, which exceed- ed thirty-seven thousand Spanish ducats of pure gold of Baldivia : con- tinuing their course, they put into the harbour of Coquimbo, where the admiral sending fourteen men on shore to fetch water, the Spaniards sent three hundred horse and two hundred foot to attack them ; but the English, making a good retreat, reached their vessels with the lose of only ene man, who was shot ; and the next day, the admiral ordering some of his people on shore to bury him, the Spaniards displayed a flag of truce ; but the sailors doubting their sincerity, returned to the ships as soon as they had buried their companion. From this place they sailed to the port of Tarapaxa, where some of them, going ashore, found a Spaniard Asleep, with eighteen bars of sdver, worth four thousand Spanish ducats, laying by his side, which they took away without waking him ; and not far from the same place, going ashore for water, they met a Spaniard and an Indian driving eight Peruvian sheep, each sheep having on his back two leather bags, and each bag containing fifty-two pounds weight of very fine silver. They took away the load, and permitted the Indian and Spaniard to drive on the sheep. Entering the port of Lima on the 13th of February, they found twelve sail of ships at anchor unguarded, the Crews being all on shore. Exa- mining these vessels, they found a chest filled with rials of plate, which, together with some silks and linen, they made prize of; but having intel- ligence that a rich ship, called the Cacafuego, was lately sailed from that harbour for Paita, th« admiral determined to follow her, but, on his arri- val at Paita, found she had sailed for Panama. They met with another prize, however, in which, besides ropes and other useful tackling for ships, they found eighty pounds weight of gold, and a crucifix of the same metal, adorned with emeralds : but resolving still to proceed in search of the Cacafuego, the admiral promised a golden chain, which he usually wore about his neck, to the first person who should discover her ; which fell to the share of Mr. John Drake, who first saw her about three o'clock in the afternoon. Having come up with the chase about six o'clock, they gave her three shots, which brought away the mizzen-mast, SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 41 whereuf)on they boarded her, and found thirteen chests full of rials of plate, eighty pounds weight of gold, a quantity of jewels, and twenty-six tons of silver in bars. The admiral finding, among other rich pieces of plate, two large silver bowls gilt, which belonged to the pilot, told him he must have one of them, which the pilot readily complied with, delivering the other to the admiral's steward at the same time. Continuing their course to the west, they met with a ship laden with linen cloth, china dishes, and silks ; from the owner of which, aSpaniard, who was then on board, the admiral took a falcon of massy gold, with a large emerald in the breast of it ; after which, they seized such of the effects as they choose, and dismissed the vessel, keeping the pilot of her for their own service. This pilot con- ducted them to the harbour of Guatulco, in which town he said there were only seventeen Spaniards. The admiral and some of his people going on shore, entered the town, and proceeding directly to the hall of justice, found a court sitting, and the judge ready to pass sentence on several pdor negroes, who were accused of a plot to fire the tovim. But the admiral seized every person present, and sent them on board his ship ; from whence he compelled the judge to write to the people of the towri to keep at a distance, and not attempt to make any resistance. This being done, they ransacked the place, but found nothing of value, except a bushel of rials of plate and a chain of gold set with jewels, which an English sailor took from a rich Spaniard who was flying out of the town. Mr Drake having now revenged bothjhimself and his country on the Spaniards, began to think of the best way of returning to England. To return by the strait of Magellan (and as yet no other passage had been discovered) would, he thought, be to throw himself into the hands of the Spaniards ; he therefore determined to sail westward to the East Indies, and so following the Portuguese course, to return home by the Cape of Good Hope. But wanting wind, he was obliged to sail toward the north, in which course, having continued at least six hundred leagues, and being got into forty-three degrees north latitude, they found it intolerably cold, upon which they steered southward, into thirty-eight degrees north lati- tude, where they discovered a country, which, from its white cliffs, they called New Albion, though it is now known by the name of California. They here discovered a bay, which entering with a favourable gale, they found several huts by the water-side, well defended from the severity of the weather. The men go quite naked, but the women have a deer-skin over their shoulders, and round their waists a covering of bull-rushes, dressed after the manner of hemp. These people bringing the admiral a present of feathers, and cauls of net- work, he entertained them so kindly and generously, that they were extremely pleased, and soon afterward sent him a present of fea- thers and bags of tobacco. A number of them coming to deliver it, gathered themselves together at the top of a small hill, from the highest point of which one harangued the admiral, whose tent was placed at the bottom ; when the speech was ended, they laid down their arms, and came down, offering presents, at the same time returning what the admiral had given them. The arrival of the English at California being soon known throughout the country, two persons, in the character of ambassadors, came to the admiral and informed him, in the best manner they were able, that their king would visit him, if he might be assured of coining in safety. Being satisfied in this point, a numerous company soon apoearcd, in the 4* 42 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. front of which was a very comely person, bearing a kind of sceptre, on which hung two crowns, and three chains of great length. The chains were made of bones, and the crowns of net-work, curiously wrought with feathers of various colours. The men being drawn up in line-of-battle, the admiral stood ready to receive the king within the fences of his tent. The company having halted at a distance, the sceptre-bearer made a speech half an hour long, at the end of which he began singing and dancing, in which he was followed by the king and all the people, who, continuing to sing and dance, came quite up to the tents ; when sitting down, the king took off his crown of feathers, placed it on the admiral's head, and put on him the other ensigns of royalty ; and he also made him a solemn tender oi his whole kingdom : all which the admiral accepted, in the name of the queen, his sovereign, in hopes that these proceedings might, one time or other, contribute to the advantage of England. The admiral and some of his people travelling to a distance up the country, saw such a number of rabbits, that it appeared an entire war- ren : they also saw deer in such plenty as to run a thousand in a herd. The earth of the country seemed to promise rich veins of gold and silver, some of the ore being constantly found upon digging. The enterprising commander at his departure set up a pillar with a large plate on it, on which was engraved her majesty's name, picture, arms, and title to the country, together with his own name, and the time of his arrival there. Sailing from this hospitable country, they lost sight of land till the 13th of October, when they saw the Ladrone islands, from v/hence came off a great number of small vessels, laden with cocoas and other fruit. These vessels on the outside were smooth and shining, like burnished horn ; on each side of them lay two pieces of wood, and th". inside was adorned with while shells. These people at first dealt fairly, but soon began to steal whatever they could get at, refusing to give up whatever they had seized ; whereupon the English determined they should come no more oh board, which so enraged them that they began to flmg stones ; but a gun being fired, they leaped into the water, and sheltered themselves under their vessels, till the ship was at a distance ; and then putting their boats right in the water, made the best of their way to the shore. They came to other islands, which appeared to be very populous, on the 18th ; and passed by the islands of Tagulada, Zewarra and Zelon, whose inhabitants were friends to the Portuguese. The first of these islands produces great quantities of cinnamon. The admiral held on his course without delay, and on the 4th of No- vember, fell in with the Moluccas, and proposuig to sail for Tirridore, coasted along the Island of Mutyr, which belongs to the Kmg of Ternate, but in the way met his viceroy, who, seeing the admiral's ship, went on board without fear, and advised him not to go to Tirridore, but sail di- rectly for Ternate, because his master, who was an enemy to the Portu- guese, would not deal with him, if he had any concerns w^ith the people of Tirridore, or the Portuguese who were settled there. Hearing this, the commander steered for Ternate, and coming to an anchor before the town early the next morning, his firtt step was to send a messenger to the king, with a velvet cloak, as a present, and to assure him that his only design in coming thither was to exchange his merchandise for such provisions as the island afforded. His majesty returned a kind answer to the admiral, assuring him that a friendly correspondence with the English would be highly agreeable to him ; that they were welcome to ! SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 43 the produce of his kingdom, which, together with himself, he should be proud to lay at the feet of his royal mistress, and acknowledged her for his sovereign. The king having determined to visit the admiral on board his ship, sent a number of his most considerable people in four large pleasure- barges, who sat under a large canopy of perfumed mats, which reached from one end of the vessel to the other, and was supported by a frame made of reeds. They were all dressed in white, and attended by a number of servants clothed in the same colour, behind whom stood se- veral ranks of soldiers, and on each side of the vessel were the rowers, in three galleries, one above another. The soldiers were furnished with warlike instruments of various kinds, and well accoutred. The admiral having made the king and his principal people some valu- able presents, his majesty took his leave, promising to come on board again the next day ; and that evening sent him a quantity of rice, fowls, fruit, sugar, and other provisions. The king did not go aboard the next morning, but sent his brother and the viceroy to invite Drake on shore, while they were to remain on board as hostages for his safe return. The admiral did not think proper to accept the invitation, but sent some of his officers on shore, detaining only the viceroy till they came back. They were received on their landing by another of the king's brothers, and several persons of quality, and conducted to the castle in great state, where they found a court of at least a thousand persons, the chief of whom were sixty elderly men, who formed the council, and four envoys from Arabia, in scarlet robes and turbans, who were there to ne- gotiate matters of trade between Muscat and Teraate. The king came in, guarded by twelve persons bearing lances, while a large canopy of gold cloth was borne over his head. He was covered with a gold tissue ; in his hair were fastened a number of gold rings by way of ornament, and a large chain of the same metal hung round his neck ; his legs were uncovered, but he wore shoes of a kind of red leather, and several rings set with jewels on his fingers. He spoke to the English gentlemen with great kindness, and sent one of his council to conduct'them back to the ship. He is a powerful prince, having the government of seventy islands, besides Ternate, which is the chief of the Moluccas. The religion of the country is Mahometanism. Mr.*Drake having despatched all his business at Ternate, weighed anchor, and sailed to a little inland south of Celebes, or Macassar, where they staid twenty-six days, in order to repair the iron work of the ship. In this island are bats as big as hens, and a sort of land cray-fish, which dig holes in the earth like rabbits, and are so large, that one of them is sufficient to dine four persons. Here they observed a sort of sliining flies in great multitudes, which, flying up and down between the trees and bushes in the night, make them appear as if they were on fire. The whole island is covered with trees, very high and straight, without boughs, except at the top, the leaves of which are like EngUsh broom. Setting sail hence, they ran among a number of small islands, and the wind shifting about suddenly, drove them upon a rock, at eight in the evening of the 9ih of January, 1579, and stuck fast till four in the afiernocn of the next day. In this extremity they lightened the vessel, by taking out eight pieces of ordnance, some provisions, and three tons of cloves ; and the wind as suddenly changing again, they made sail, and happily got off. On the 8th of February, they fell in with the fruitful Island of I3aretene, the people of which have very comely persons ; and 44 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. their punctuality in all their dealings, and civil and courteous behaviour to strangers, is very extraordinary. The men have a covering for their heads, and another round their waist, and the women are clothed from the middle to the feet, besides which, they load their arms with eight bracelets, made of bone, brass, or horn, the least of which weighs two ounces. Leaving Baretene, they sailed for Java Major, where they met with courteous and honourable entertainment. The island is governed by five kings, who live in perfect friendship with each other. They had once four of their majesties on ship-board at a time, and the company of two or three of them very often. The people of Java are stotit, active, warhke, and go well armed with daggers, swords, and targets, of their own manufacture, and very curious. Their sociableness is such that in each village they have a public house, to which each person carries such provision as he has ; and here they daily join to make a feast, for the promotion of good fellowship. They have a method of boiling rice peculiar to themselves ; first putting it into an earthen pot, in the figure of a sugar loaf, open at the greater end, and perforated all over ; and fixing this. in a large earthen pot full of boiling water, the rice swells and fills the holes of the pot, so that only a small quantity of water can enter. By this method the rice is brought to a firm consistence, and at length caked into a sort of bread, which, with butter, oil, sugar, and spices, makes a very pleasant food. They sailed from hence on the 26th of Mardh ; on the 18th of June they doubled the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 22d of July arrived at Sierra Leone, on the coast of Guinea, where they found a great number of elephants, and saw trees on the shore with oysters hanging to them, on which they lived and multiplied. They also found lemons in plenty, with which, and the oysters, all the crew were greatly refreshed after their fatigue ; having put in at no place since they left Java. They stayed here two days, taking in wood, water, and refreshments, when sailing homeward, they were off the Canaries on the 26th ; but, being in no want of provisions, held on their course for Plymouth, and arrived on Monday, the 26th of September, 1580 ; but, according to their own reckoning, on Sunday the 25th ; having gone round the world in two years, ten months, and a few days. On the 4th of April, 1581, Queen Elizabeth dined on board Admiral Drake's ship at Deptford ; and, after dinner, conferred on him thje ho- nour of knighthood, telling him, at the same time, that his actions did him more honour than his title. His ship was preserved many years, and when she became decayed, a chair was made from some small remains of it, which is still shown as a curiosity at Oxford. By this voyage England acquired the honour of having the first commander-in-chief who had sailed round the world, Magellan having been killed on his voyage, as before related. SIR THOMAS CAVENDISH.— 1586-88. Thomas Cavendish, of Tremley, in the County of Suffolk,, esquire, wai a gentleman of a cQnsiderable family, and possessed a large estate near Ipswich. He had an early inclination to the sea, which he indulged on his coming of age, by converting part of his estate into money, with which he fitted out a stout vessel, of 120 tons burihen, called the Tyger, and in which he accompanied Sir Richard Greenville in his voyage to "% SIR THOMAS CAVENDISH. 41 Virginia, in. 1585 ; and having encountered many dangers and difficul- ties, without any advantage, returned safe to Falnaouth on the 6th of October in the same year. In this voyage having seen a great part of the Spanish West Indies, and had an opportunity of conversing with several persons who had sailed through the South Seas with Sir Francis Drake, who was by this time raised to the head of his profession, he became emulous of attempting a like adventure ; and, therefore, as soon as he returned home, sold or mortgaged a part of his estate to laise money for equipping two ships proper for the expedition. So intent was he on the business, that in less than a month his carpenters began to work on the large vessel ; and his little squadron was entirely completed and properly furnished in less than half a year. Having provided such sea charts, maps, draughts, and accounts of for- mer voyages as could be procured ; and having, by means of his patron, Lord Hunsdon, then lord chamberlain, obtained a commission from Queen Elizabeth, he embarked at Harwich, on the lOih of July, 15S6, on board the largest ship, called the Desire, burthen 140 tons, having w:ith him the Content, burthen GO tons, and a bark, called the Hugh Gallant, of 40 tons, well supplied, at his own expense, with provisions for two years, and manned with 126 officers and sailors. From this port he steered to Plymouth, whence he sailed agam on the 25lh, and on the next day fell in with eight ships from Biscay, one of which attacked the admiral, but meeting with a warm reception, sheer- ed off. On the 5th of August, they fell in with the Island of Forteventura, from which they continued their voyage to Cape Blanco, on the coast of Guinea, by which time the officers and men beginning to complain much of the scurvy, it was determined to put them on shore as soon as opportunity offered. On the ^5ih, fell in with the south side of Sierra Leone, where, going on shorej- they destroyed a negro town ; while a negro killed one of their men with a poisoned arrow. On the 3d of September their boat went four miles up the harbour, and procured a great many lemons, caught a large quantity of fish, and on their return saw a great number of buffaloes. Quitting the harbour of Sierra Leone on the 6th of September, they anchored next day at two miles distance from one of the Cape de Verd islands, where, going on shore, they found an Indian town deserted by its inhabitants, who had left a considerable quantity of provisions behind. I'hcy departed from this island on the 10th, and, on the last day of October, sailing W. S. W. on the coast of Brazil, discovered a moun- tain with a high round summit, which at a distance resembled a town. On the 1st of November, sailed in between the town of St. Sebastian and the main land, and, going on shore, employed themselves till the 23d of the month in erecting a forge, building a pinnace, and repairing the damages of their ships. They reached a harbour on the coast of South America on the 27th of November, which the admiral, entering first, called Port Desire, from the name of his ship. Near this harbour, which is very convenient, they found a great quantity of seals and gray gulls- Going on shore, the savages wounded two of the sailors with their arrows, which were made of canes, and headed with flints. These people were of a prodigious stature, the length of one of their feet being eighteen inches, and their height seven feet or better. When one of them dies, he is buried in a tomb formed of stones, by the sea-side, and a number 46 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. of shells laid under his head. When the admiral left the place, he called them Patagonians, and the account of them agrees tolerably well with that of Magellan. Leaving Port Desire on the 28th of December, and continuing a course S. W. and by S., they fell in with a great cape on the 3d of January, which reaches to the opening of the Straits of Magellan. Anchoring under this cape, a violent storm arose, which lasted three days ; they part- ed from their cable, and on the Gth entered the straits, which were in some places very narrow, and in others five or six leagues wide. On the next day they met with a Spaniard, who informed them there were twenty-two more of the same nation in the vicinity, being all that remain- ed of four hundred, who had been left there three years before. On the 8th they anchored at Penguin Island, so called from that bird, great num- bers of which were killed and salted ; and next sailed south and south- west, to a place built by ihc Spaniards, called Cividad del Rey Felippe, or King Philip's City, which had four forts or bastions, each fort having one piece of cannon, which had been buried, and the carriages left standing. They sailed hence through several channels, frequently steering diffe- rent courses to the mouth of the straits opening to the Pacific Ocean, which, owing to the contrary winds and the badness of the weather, they did not reach till the 23d of February. On the 24th they entered the South Sea ; and, on the 1st of March, in a gieat storm at night, parted from the Hugh Gallant, about 45 leagues from land, and in 49 degrees south latitude. The storm continued about three days, during wliich this vessel sprung a leak, and it was with the utmost difficulty the men could keep her from sinking ; but, on the 15th, in the morning, she met the other ships between the Island of St. Mary and the main land. ' The admiral and the Content had secured themselves two days during the violence of the storm, at the Isle of Mocha, in 38 degrees south latitude, where some of the company going on shore, well armed, were attacked by the Indians armed with bows and arrows. On the 16th the admiral went on shore, attended by eighty men, well armed, and were met by two Indians, who treated them with great respect, • and conducted them to a chapel built by the Spaniards, near which were many store-houses filled with wheat and barley, equal in goodness to that of England. Cavendish invited the two Indians on board, who, after some time, perceiving they were not among Spaniards, began to talk much about the gold mines, intimating, by signs, that if they would go across the country to Aranco, they might furnish themselves with as much of that metal as they pleased. But this the admiral did not think fit to do, and having supplied himself with a good stock of com, hogs, fowls, potatoes, and dried dog-fish, determined to continue his voyage. They left this place on the 18th, and next day anchored at an island called the Conception ; sailing thence, they came to the Bay of Quintero on the 30th, and, on the last of the month, fifty men, well armed, marched several miles up the countr}', which they found well stocked with wild cattle, horses, dogs, hares, rabbits, and partridges ; they also saw seve- ral rivers, near which were great quantities of wild fowl. Having pro- ceeded as far as. the mountains, they refreshed themselves on the banks of a pleasant river, and returned to their ships at night. A party of two hundred Spanish horse were in pursuit of the detachment that day, but being seen, would not venture to attack them ; however, on the 1st of April, while the English were on shore filling water, the Spaniards poured down two hundred cavalry from the hills upon them, who killed several, SIR THOMAS CAVENDISH. 47 and took a few prisoners ; but a reinforcement of fifteen English coming up, rescued their companions, killed twenty-four of the Spaniards, and drove the rest to the mountains. After this they continued taking in water unmolested for four days, and then put oif to an island at the dis- tance of a league, abounding with penguins and other fowl, with which having plentifully stocked the ships, they continued their voyage north-west. On the 15th they arrived at an excellent harbour called Moro-Moreno, so formed by the situation of an island as to admit a ship at either end. At this place the admiral went on shore with thirty men, and was plentifully supplied with wood and water by the Indians, who brought it on their backs. These harmless people lived in a very wild manner, though kept greatly in subjection by the Spaniards. They conducted the admiral and his party to their houses, which were about two miles from the harbour, composed of two or three forked sticks stuck in the ground, a few rafters being laid across from one to the other, and the whole covered with boughs. They subsisted on stinking fish, and their beds were the skins of wild beasts spread on the floor. Leaving Moro-Moreno, they proceeded till tho third of May, and then anchored in a bay near three small towns, in about 13 degrees south lati- tude, called Pi&ca, Chincha, and Paracca, where, going on shore at the former, they found some houses deserted by the inhabitants. Here they supplied themselves with wine, bread, figs, and poultry ; but the sea ran so high they could not get on shore at Paracca, which was the prhicipal place. They also found here two ships laden with sugar, molasses, maize, cordovan skins, and other effects, out of which they took what they chose, put the people on shore, and burnt the vessels. It was judged that the cargo of one of these ships would havo yielded them twenty thousand pounds, had a proper market for it been at hand. Sailing hence, they came, on the 26th, to the road of Paita, the town of which name is a neat well-built place, containing about two hundred houses. The admiral landing with seventy men, drove the inhabitants to .the hills, from whence they fired small shot upon his party, but the Spa- niards would not come to close quarters ; whereupon the English, having possessed themselves of the town, marched in pursuit up the hills, com- pletely routed them, and brought back considerable property, which they had liid among the mountains. Having seized twenty-five pounds weight of silver, in pieces of eight, they set fire to the town, and to a vessel which lay in the harbour, embarking while the place was in flames. Sailing hence to Puna, an island in one degree south latitude, they found a ship of 250 tons burthen in the harbour, which they sunk, and went on shore. The cacique having removed the valuable furniture of his palace and other effects to a neighbouring island, the admiral went there on the 26ih, and seizing what he thought proper, had it conveyed on board the ships. They also burnt the church and took away five of the bells. The English were attacked on the 2d of June by a hundred Spaniards, who, with the loss of forty-six of their own men, killed and look prisoners about twelve of the English ; but seventy sailors going on shore the same day, at- tacked and routed one hundred Spaniards armed with muskets, and two hundred Indians with bows and arrows ; and then, destroying their or- chards, also burnt four large ships upon the stocks, together with the town, which consisted of three hundred houses, which was reduced to a heap of rubbish. On the 1st of July gamed a sight of New Spain at the distance of foul 48 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. leagues from land; and on the 9th took anew ship of 120 tons, which, haviijg rifled, and taken her pilot, one Sancius, and the crew on board, they set on fire ; and the next day also took a bark, which was destined to give intelligence of their arrival along the coast. About the middle of August the admiral and thirty men went in the pinnace to Port Nativity, in 19 degrees north latitude, where Sancius, the pilot of the former ship they had taken, informed him that a rich prize would be found ; but, before their arrival, she had sailed twelve leagues farther to fish for pearls. They, however, took a mulatto, who had been sent to give notice of their arrival along the coast of Neuva Gallicia, and having burnt the town of Nativity, with two vessels of two hundred tons burthen on the stocks, they returned to their ships. On the 26th., sailed into the Bay of St. Jago, where having watered, caught a considerable quantity of fish, and taken some pearls, they left it on the 2d of Septem- ber ; next day sailed a league to the westward of Port Nativity, into the Bay of Malacca, where the admiral and about thirty of his men went ashore to a little Indian town called Acatlan, consisting of upward of twenty nouses and a church, to which they set fire, and went on board again in the night. This bay they left on the 4th, and sailing along the coast with a fair wind, arrived in the road of Chacalla four days afterward. On the day after their arrival, the commander sent forty men, with the pilot (Sancius) as a guide, through the woods into the country, where they found a few Indian and Spanish families, and one of Portuguese, all of whom they made prisoners and carried on board the ships. The admiral employed the women to fetch plantains, lemons, oranges, and other fruit on board ; and as a reward for their industry, discharged all their husbands except Diego, a Portuguese, and Sembrano, a Spanish carpenter. On the 24th entered the road of Massatlan, which lies under the tropic of Cancer, where they found plenty of fine fish, and the adjacent country abounded with fruit. They left it again on the 27th, putting in at an island a league to the northward, where they cleaned their ships and new- built their pinnace. Being now much in want of water, one Flores, a Spanish prisoner, advised them to dig in the sand to the depth of three feet, where they found a sufficient quantity for the use of the crew. They sailed from this island on the 9th of October, and on the I4th fell in with Cape St. Lucar, on the west point of Cahfornia, a place which, as Sir Francis Drake's people had observed before, exactly resembles the Needles at the Isle of Wight. A fine bay, called by the Spaniards Agu- ada Segura, the banks of which are inhabited by a great number of In- dians during the summer season, is situated within this cape. At this place they watered, and waited for the Acapulco ship till the 4th of November, on which day, in the morning, one of the admiral's crew, going tip the topmast-head, saw a vessel coming in from the sea, on which he cried out, " A sail ! a sail !" Everything being immediately prepared, the admiral chased her nearly four hours, when coming up he saluted her with a broadside and a volley of small shot. She appeared to be the St. Anne, a Spanish vessel of 700 tons burthen ; some of the admiral's people immediately boarding her, found the crew provided vsrith javelins, targets, and great stones, with which the Spaniards attacked the Enghsh and forced them to retire, with the loss of two men killed and several wounded. The admiral now gave them a second salute with his great and small arms, by which a great number were killed, but they still continued fighting, till a third broadside obliged them to yield or sink ; whereupon they flung, out a flag of truce. SIR THOMAS CAVENDISH, 49 strack their sails, and the captain, pilot, and a principal merchant came or board the admiral. The prize contained one hundred and twenty-tw« thousand pezoes of gold, besides great quantities of rich silks, satins, damask, musk, and a good stock of provisions. Having obtained this rich booty, ihey put into the harbour of Puerto Seguro on the 6th of November, where the admiral set all the prisoners on shore, to the number of one hundred and fifty, giving them wine, pro- visions, and the sails of their ship, with planks to build houses. The captors now began to divide the booty, when the avarice of some of the sailors caused a considerable disturbance, which threatened a mutiny, but the candid and generous behaviour of Cavendish at length compro- mised all differences. Of the prisoners of the St. Anne were reserved two Japanese boys, three that w«re born on the Island of Manilla, a Portuguese who had visited China and Japan, and a Spanish pilot, who was well acquainted with the seas between Acapulco and New Spain, ■and the Ladrone islands. On the 19lh of November, the admiral havmg made a present to the captain of the St. Anne, put him on shore with arms to defend himself against the Indians, and then burnt the ship, with five hundred tons of goods in her, waiting till he saw her destroyed quite down to the edge of the water. This being done, they proposed to sail for England ; and at this time had the misfortune to lose the Content, which remaining behind some little time in the road, they sailed out, expecting she would follow, but they never saw her again. They however directed their course to the Ladrones, which held thera till the 3d of January, when, early in the morning, they had sight of one of the cluster called Guam. Sailing on. with a gentle wind, they came v/ithin two leagues of the island, when sixty or seventy canoes, filled with savages, came off to the ships, bringing fresh fish, cocoas, plantains, and potatoes, to exchange vrith the sailors, who gave them pieces of old iron in return. The bits of iron they fastened to cords and fishing hnes, which they threw over the ship's side to the canoes, and received back the provisions by the same conveyance. These savages crowded about the ship in such a manner, that two of their canoes were broke to pieces, but the people diving escaped unhurt ; and they would not leave the ship, at last, till some small arms were discharged. They were very lusty men, of a tawny colour, remarkably fat ; most of them wore their hair very long, but some tied it up in knots on the crown of their head. Their canoes, made of rafts of canes, were seven or eight yards in length and half a yard in breadth, furnished with square or triangular sails made of sedges, both head and stern of the vessel being alike, and sailing equally with or nearly against the wind. Sailing hence, they fell in with the headland of the Philippine islands, called Caba del Spirito Santo, at day-break, on the l4th of January. The island is large, high in the middle, running a great way into the sea westward. It is one hundred leagues from Guam, and sixty from Manilla, which is the chief of the Philippines, and inhabited by six or seven hun- dred Spaniards. The place has no great strength, but is immensely rich in gold and other valuable commodities. It has a constant annual cor- respondence with Acapulco, and employs twenty or thirty ships to trade to China with the Sangneloes, who are Chinese merchants, extreme good mechanics, and the best embroiderers in silk and satin in the world. The people of Manilla are great gainers by their trade with the Sangue- 5 50 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. loes, who send great quantities of golJ thither, and exchange it for aiJ equal weight of silver. On the next day they fell in with the -Island of Capul, passing a very narrow strait "between that island and another. Coming to an anchor in four fathom water, within a cable's length of the shore, a canoe came up to them, in which was one of the seven caciques, who are joint gover- nors of the island. They passed for Spaniards with these people, who brought provisions,, exchanging a quantity of potatoes, or four cocoas for a yard of fine cloth. The cacique coming on board, they detained him, and desired, by signs, that he would send for his six brother caciques ; whereupon the servants, who managed the caiioe, went for them, and they quickly came with a great number of the people of the island, bringing with them hogs, poultry, cocoas, and potatoes, so that the sailors were fully employed in exchanging, which they did at the Spanish rate, giving eight rials of plate for a hog, and one for a fowl. The pilot, whom they took on board the St. Anne, having laid a plot to betray them to the Spaiiiards, was hanged at this place. The people of the island are of a tawny complexion, go almost naked, worship tlie devil, and practise the rite of circumcision. They, as wolf as several other neighbouring islands, have paid tribute to the English, on a supposition that they were Spaniards. The admiral summoned all the caciques on the 23d, and acquainting them that they were English, and the mortal foes of the Spaniards, at the same time paying them in money for the hogs and other provisions which he had received as tribute. These chiefs much admired the admiral's generosity, and promised to assist him with all their forces, if he would make war upon the Spaniards. At their departure, the admiral fired a gun, in compliment to his visiters, after they had several times rowed round his ship to afford him diversion. On the next morning, June the 24th, they set sail, steering north-west by several islands, where the Spaniards, having been alarmed, kept fires and a strict watch all night, continually discharging their pieces. They passed the Island of Panama, which is a plain, level country, abounding in tall trees, proper for making masts of ships, and having several mines of fine gold, which are in possession of the Indians. To the southward of this, in nine degrees north latitude, lies the large Island of Negro, a low and fruitful country, where the natives maintain their independency. At six in the morning, on the 29th of June, they j>assed through the strait between Panama and the Negro Island. They met with nothing remark- able from this time till the 1st of March following, when, having passed the straits of Java Major and Minor, they came to an anchor on the south-west of Java Major, where they saw people fishing in a bay under the islandj to v.'hom the admiral sent out a boat v/ith a negro who could speak the Malay tongue, which is much used at Java ; but the people being frightened, ran away to the woods. One of them afterward ven- turing to the sea-side, the negro told him it was expected they would find fresh water for the use of the ship, and desired to be conducted to the king, whom having found, he acquainted him that the admiral was come hither to traffic for provisions, or any valuable commodities the island afforded. On the 13th, ten of the king's canoes came off to the admiral, laden with oxen, hogs, poultry, geese, eggs, sugar, cocoas, plantains, oranges, le.mons, wine, and acqua vitae. Two Portuguese who were on the island came on board, and gave them a full account of the manners and customs of the inhabitants. u OLIVER VAN NOOIIT. 61 The admiral having paid for the provisions they brought, sailed on the 16ih of March for the Cape of Good Hope, and on the lllh of May one of the company spied land, bearing north and north-wtst, at the distance of about forty leagues. Being becalmed on the following t\vo days, they could not get near enough to be certain what land it was ; but, on the 14th, found it to be Cape Falso, from which the Cape of Good Hope bears west and by south at near fifty leagues distance. On the 16th they saw the Cape of Good Hope, which, by their reckoning, appeared to be one thousand eight hundred and fifty leagues from Java. On the 8ih of June they came within sight of the Island of St. Helena, at the distance of eight leagues ; but, having little wind, could not reach it till the next day, when they came to an anchor near the shore, in twelve fathom water. Going on shore, they entered the church, which was hung with pointed cloths, having an altar with a picture of the Virgin Mary, and the story of the crucifixion. This church stands in a valley so filled with fruit trees and excellent plants that it appears like a vvell cultivated garden, adorned with long- lemon, orange, citron, pomegranate, date, and tig trees, presenting the eye with blossoms, and green and ripe fruit all at the snme time. Having taken on board what necessaries thoy wanted, they sailed for England on the 20th of June, and on the 3d of September met with a Flemish vessel, from Lisbon, by which they learned the agreeable news of the total defeat of the Spanish Armada. On the 9ih of September, after a violent storm, which carried away the greater part of their sails, they arrived at Plymouth, from which they had been absent two years and something less than two months ; and soon afterward Mr. Cavendish received the honour of knighthood from Queen Ehzabeth. BY OLIVER VAN NOOIIT. (being the first attempted by the dutch.) 15D8-1601. SEVER.iL eminent Dutch merchants, about the beginning of the year 1598, formed the design of sending some stout vessels tiirough the straits of Magellan, to cruise on the Spaniards in the South Seas, to which they were chiefly induced by the reports of many English seamen, who had served uiider Drake, Cavendish, and others. As the success of the en- terprise depended in a great measure on the capacity of the admiral, Oliver Van Noort, a native of Utrecht, a man in the flower of his age, was pitched upon to take charge of the expedition. Two stout vessels, the Maurice and the Henry Frederic, and two yachts, the Concord and the Hope, manned by two hundred and forty-eight persons, v^ere appointed for this service. The Maurice was commanded by Oliver Van Noort, admiral, the Henry Frederic by James Claasz, vice-admiral, the Concord by Peter Van Lint, and the Hope by John Huidecoope. The Maurice and the Concord sailed out of the port of Gorce oti the 13Lh of September, 1598, and being joined by the Henry Frederic ami the Hope from Amsterdam, they continued their voyage together for Piymouth, in order to take on board the clothes and other necessaries of their pilot, Mr. Mellish, an English gentleman, who had been abroad before with Sir Thomns Cavendish. On the 21st they left Plymouth, with a fresh gale at north-east, and ne.i:t morning missed the vice-admiral's shallop, with sht men on board her, 52 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. in search of whom they began to entertain thoughts of returning to Ply- mouth ; but meeting with an English privateer, tliey learned that the fel- lows had designedly run away with the boat. The escape of these fellows, however, occasioned some rnurmurings among the sailors, whi which is also called St. Helena, inhabited by Indians, who have neither grain, plants, nor fruit, but water melons, which arc very large and sweet ; they have neither spring nor river of any kind near them, and are obliged to fetch their fresh water fro.m a river at four leagues distance. They live chiefly upon fish, except some maize procured in exchange for a bituminous substance, which the Spaniards call algatrane, which issue out of the earth above high-water mark, and which, when boiled, answers all the purposes of pitch. The captain landed some men here, who seized a small bark, which they preserved from being burnt, the Indians having set it on fire, as they afSrmed, by command of the viceroy ; they also took a few prisoners, from whom it appeared the viceroy had commanded all seamen to burn their vessels, and take to their boats, if they should happen to fall in the way of the English bucaniers. The men coming back the same evening, they sailed again for the Island of Plata, and anchored on the 2Gth of September, immediately sending some of the men to Manta, an Indian village three leagues west of Cape Lorenzo. The inhabitants, perceiving their approach, fled fronfi the town, except two decrepid old women, who declared the viceroy, having heard that a number of men had marched over-land through Darien to the South Seas, had ordered the ships to be burnt, the goats on the Island of Plata to be destroyed, and no provisions kept there but what was wanted for immediate uso. As the alarm which had been spread through the country prevented their finding any booty, ^hcy returnfed on board, and the next day sailed back to the Island of Plata, where having waited till the 2d of October, and being undetermined what course to take, they were then joined by Captain Swan, in the Cygnet. This ship was from London, on a tra- ding voyage, but having met with many disappointments, his men had forced him to take on board a party of bucaniers, who had travelled over the Isthmus of Darien, under the command of Captain Peter Harris, who, having a small bark, and being now three in company, they earnestly wished to meet with Captain Eaton, as they hoped, with such a force, to be able to uiidertake an expedition of some consequence. The hark was therefore immediately sent in search of him, with a letter of invitation to share thoir fortune ; but she did not meet him, he having lately quitted those seas, as it was imagined, for the East Indies ; a scheme which he had for a long tinic proposed to execute. The bark, however, which had b6en three days cruising, took a prize of 400 tons, laden with timber, bound from Guaquil to Lima ; the master of which said the viceroy of Peru was fittir.g out ten frigates to drive them out of those seas. This news, though disagreeable, did not discou- rage them from making a descent upon Payta, where, on the 3d of Novem- ber, they landed 110 men, and havhig seized upon the town, kept posses- sion of it for several daysy in hopes the inhabitants would have redeemed it ; but that not being done, they set it on fire, and retired to the ships. The captains had offered to spare the town for 300 sacks of flour, 3,000 pounds of sugar, 35 jars of wine, and 1,000 jnrs of water; but these moderate conditions were slighted. 64 Voyages round the wgrl6. They left the Bay of Payta on the 10th of November, at night, and arrived at Lobos de la Mar on the 10th, where the Mosquito men struck a great number of turtle. Here they came to a resolution of attacking Guaquil, which is situated in a bay of the same name, between Cape Blanco on the south and Point Chandy on the north ; and at the bottom of the bay lies a small island, shaped like a dead man in a shroud, called St. Clara. Having heretofore had a design against Guaquil, they left the ships at Cape Blanco, and steered with a bark and some canoes to the Isle of St. Clara, and thence in two canoes to Point Arena, where they the next day took some of the fishermen of Puna, and afterward seized the town. On the ebb they look a bark coming from Guaquil, laden wiih Quito cloth, from the master of which they learned there were three barks full of negroes coming with the next tide. Leaving five men on board the prize, they embarked all the rest in canoes, and proceeded toward Guaquil, but the canoes being heavily laden, it was break of day before they got within two leagues of the town ; whereupon they hid themselves all day in a neighbouring creek, and sent one of the canoes back to the bark, with orders not to fire at anything till next day. Before they arrived with these directions, two barks filled with negroes coming out of the harbour with the evening tide, and falling down with the ebb toward Puna, coming within sight of the English, they fired three guns at them ; which put these in the canoes in great conster- nation, not doubting but the people of the town had taken the alarm. Some of the company were now for advancing to the town immediately, and others for returning to ihe ships ; but as the ebb tide prevented their going upward, Captain Davis, with fifty of his men, determined to march by land to the place ; the rest, judging it impossible to succeed, conti* nued in the creek to wait the event. After an absence of four hours. Captain Davis and his men, being almost choked among the mangrove woods, which grew in the marshes, and finding it impossible to go forward, returned. It was then determined to row up within sight of the town, and, if they found themselves dis- covered, to retire without attempting to land ; therefore, rowing through the north-east channel, they got within view of the town during the night ; when, on a sudden, at the discharge of a musket, they perceived the whole place to be full of lights, and as they had seen but one before, they certainly concluded that they were discovered ; but several of them observing that the Spaniards used lights on the evenings preceding their festivals, and that the ne.'ct was a holyday, they upbraided Captain Swan and his men with cowardice. On this, all the party landed at a place about two miles from the townj which being over-run with woods, they were forced to wait for day-light ; when, having an Indian guide, whom they had taken three days beforej a cord was tied to him, and he was led by one of Captain Davis's men, who seemed one of the most>forward in the enterprise ; but now, perhaps, beginning to repent his rashness, cut the rope, and let the Indian escape into the, town. When he thought the fellow was at a proper dista:ice, he cried out that somebody had cut the rope ; when the company, having searched in vain for the fugitive, determined to abandon the enterprise ; however, they landed on the opposite shore, and killed a cow, which was dressed and ate, undisturbed by the inhabitants. On the 9th of December returning to Puna, on their way took the two barks above-mentioned, and finding a thousand negroes on board, kept WILLIAM DAMPIER. 65 about sixty, and left the rest, with the barks, behind, and soon saw ihsm make the shore. Mr. Dampier seems of opinion that this was a very impohtic proceeding, and that if they had taken these people directly over the Isthmus of Darien, they might have been able to have worked the gold mines of St. Maria ; an undertaking which would have been so well supported by the English and French privateers from all parts of the West Indies, that they might have been able to have stood their ground against all the power of Spain in that part of the world ; and in time have been strong enough to have extended their conquests to the wealthy gold mines of the province of Quito, Settiiig sail on the 13th, in three days arrived at La Plata, on their way to which they met the bark which had been sent in search of Cap- .ain Eaton, of whom they had got no intelligence. Here they divided the cloth which they had taken on board the bark ; and having supplied themselves with fresh water, resolved to steer for Lavelia, a town m the Bay of Panama. Accordingly they sailed on the 23d, and the next morning passed in sight of Cape Passao, a high round point, covered with fruit trees on the land side, but bare taward the sea. Between this and Cape Fran- cisco are abundance of small points, full of various kinds of trees, which enclose so many sandy creeks. As iheir design was to search for canoes in some river unfrequented by the Spaniards, they endeavoured to make the Island of St. Jago, on account of its vicinity to the Isle of Gallo, where there was safe anchor- age for the ships, and gold in great plenty. The River of St. Jago is large and navigable ; about seven leagues from the sea it divides into two branches, surrounding a large island, the mould of which is of a deep black, producing a number of tall trees, among which the largest are the cabbage tree, and those of red and white cotton. The cabbage is the tallest, and Mr. Dampier measured one that was 120 feet long. It has no branches but near the top, where they sprout out to the length of twelve or fourteen feet, covered with small long leaves, in such regular order, that at a distance they appear but as one leaf. In the middle of these branches grows the fruit, which is as big as a man's leg, about a foot long, as white as milk, and very sweet, whether eaten raw or boiled. As soon as the head is gone the tree dies ; for which reason they cut it down to gather the fruit. Between the cab- bage and the branches many small twigs sprout forth, about two feet long, at the end of which grow hard round berries, about the size of a cherry, which, falling once a year, afford e5cellen^food for the hogs. The body of the tree is full of round rings from top to bottom, about half a foot asunder ; the bark is thin and brittle, the wood black and hard, and there is a white pith in the middle of the tree. The pleasing verdure of these trees is a great ornament to the grove, and they are much used by the planters of Jamaica. The continual rains which fall in this part of Peru, added to the natu- ral ferocity of the inhabitants, which it appears impossible to tame, have prevented the Spaniards from making any considerable discoveries on this coast ; and the people bear so mortal a hatred to the Spaniards, and are so jealous of all other Europeans, that whoever attempts to row up the river must lie exposed to their ambuscades on each side ; and th«y are such excellent marksmen that their arrows seldom miss their aim. Notwithstanding these dangers, Dampier and some others ventured 6* 66 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. to row six leagues up the river, till they came to two huts, ^vhere they found a hog, which appeared to be of the European kind, and some fowls and plantains, which they dressed and fed very heartily upon ; while tho poor Indians who owned them, seeing their approach, Look their wives and children into canoes, and paddled away with such expedition, that there was no possibility of following them. On the opposite side they saw many huts, which, like these, were covered with Palmetto leaves, but the stream being very rapid, they were afraid to venture farther up ; so that after a day's exicursion they returned to their ships, which were stationed off Gallo, a small uninhabited island, about three leagues from the mouth of the River Tomaco, and four and a half from an Indian village of the same name. At twelve o'clock on the following night they made a descent, and going into one of the houses, seized upon all the inhabitants, among whom was Don Diego de Pinas, a Spanish knight, who was come thither to load timber ; but finding nothing in the vessel that brought him but thirteen jars of wine, they took them out, and turned the vessel adrift. While proceeding in canoes from Tomaco toward Gallo, on the 1st of January, 1685, they seized a Spanish packet-boat going from Panama to Lima, by which they learned that the Armada was arrived from Spain at Porto Bello, where it waited for the Plate fleet from Lima : on this they changed their resolution of going to Lavelia, resolving to rendezvous among the King's or Pearl islands, by which the ships, bound from Lima to Panama, must necessarily pass. The Pearl islands are numerous, low, and v/oody ; seven leagues from the continent, and twelve from Panama. Dampier says, that though in the maps they are called Pearl islands, he could not find one pearl oyster near them. Tho most northern island is called Pachea or Pacheque, and St. Paul's is the most southernly : all the rest, though large, having no names. The negroes who belong to the inhabitants of Panama have planted some of these islands with plantains, bananas, and rice. The channel between them and the continent is seven or eight leagues broad, of a moderate depth, and has good anchoring all along it ; and though the islands lie close together, there are good chanels between them, proper for boats. Having sent their barks on a cruise toward Panama, they returned on the fourth day with a prize, laden with maize, salted beef, and fowls. They found abundance of oysters in the harbour, together with muscles, limpets, and clams, which last are a kind of oysters that cling so close to the rocks that, to be eaten, they must be opened on the spot. They also found turtle-doves and pigeons here. The ships being well careened by the 14th of February, they took in wood and water, and ." example, abandoning the city to the mercy of the enemy. In about four hours all the English entered the town, except a few, who, being tired, were left upon the road ; among these was an old gray- headed fellow, of the name of Swan, who had served under Oliver Crom- well in Ireland, and was eighty-four years of age. On his absolutely refusing to take quarter, the Spaniards shot him dead ; but they took several other prisoners, among whom was one Mr. Smith, who, having lived in the Canaries, spoke the Spanish tongue fluently. Smith being carried before the governor, and examined with regard tjo the strength of the invaders, represented them to be 1500 men 1000 in the town and 70 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 500 in canoes ; which well-timed piece of deceit had such an effect upon his excellency, that though he was at the head of more than 1000 men, he did not choose to attack the enemy, but sent a flag of truce the next day to propose a ransom for the town. But the EngHsh demanding provisions for 1000 men for four months, and 30,000 pieces of eight, he did not choose to comply with the demand ; and therefore they fired the city on the 1,4th of August, the next morning inarching toward their canoes. A gentleman, who had been taken prisoner, was delivered back in ex- change for Mr. Smith, and a Spanish gentleman was released, on pro- mising to deliver 150 oxen at Rio Leja, where they intended to make their next attempt. They rowed in their canoes toward Rio Leja on the 16th of August, where their ships were by that time come to an anchor. This is a beautiful place, seated a mile from the harbour, on the mouth of a river, on a small plain, and has three churches, and an hospital with a handsome garden to it ; but is situated in an unwholesome air, near some fens and marshes, which occasion a noxious smell. The creek that leads from Rio Leja has a broad entrance, but afterward closes into a narrow, deep channel covered on both sides with cocoa trees, A mile from the entrance of the creek it winds to the west, where the Spaniards cast up an entrenchment, which was defended by 120 men, and farther down had laid a boom of trees across the creek ; but as soon as the English had fired two guns the Spaniards quilted their post, and left the enemy to take the town, which they did without opposition. They here found only empty houses, except five hundred sacks of flour, some pitch, tar, cordage, and some sugar in the neighbourhood, together with the hundred and fifty oxen which had been promised by the Spanish gentleman whom they released at Leon. The bucaniers staid here a week, and then set fire to the town, though Mr. Dampier declares himself Ignorant by whose order it was done. On the 25th of August, Davis and Swan parted, the former being de- termined to try his fortune on the coast of Peru, and the latter proposing to proceed farther to the west. Captains Knight and Harris went with Davis, and our author on board Captain Swan, who was joined by Captain Townley with his two barks. About this time they all suffered very considerably by a malignant fever, which carried off many of the men, and was supposed to be the remains of a fever contracted at Rio Leja. On the 27th, Davis sailed out of the harbour, Swan complimenting him with fifteen guns, which he answered by eleven. Swan and Townley sailed on the 3d of September, with 340 men, steering westward, having bad weather all along the coast, together v/ith thunder and lightning, which kept them at sea till the 14th, when they discovered the volcano of Guatimala, a high forked hill, which, before bad weather, generally emits smoke and flames. It derives its name from the city of Guatimala, which stands at its foot, eight leagues from the South Sea, and forty or fifty from the Gulf of Matique in the Bay of Hon- duras, in the north seas. It is esteemed a rich city, the country round abounding in several commodities, which are exported thence into Europe, especially the four useful dyes, cochineal, Sylvester, annatta, and indigo. The sea is full of drift wood and pumice stones, even at some leagues distance from Gpatimala, which are supposed to be brought down from the mountain by the frequent and violent rains. WILLIAM DAMPIER. 71 On the 24th, being in fourteen degrees and thirteen minutes north lati- tude, Captain Townley went on shore, taking with him nine canoes and 106 men, proposing to inarch to a town called Teguantapeque, situated some- where in the "neighbourhood, in hopes to have procured some provision for the sick men, as great numbers of the crev/ were in a very weak condition. Not being able to find the town. Captain Townley returned on board the 2d of October ; but being determined to try his fortune once more, he ran his canoes ashore in a sandy bay, where he landed with the loss of one man and most of his powder spoiled by the canoea oversetting ; and was no sooner on shore, than he was attacked by a part;; of 200 Indians and Spaniards, whom, with some diHiculty, he repulsed. Having again joined Captain Swan, they set sail with fair weather, and the wind at east-north-east, keeping a westward course, and having run about twenty leagues, they came to the Island of I'angola, where there is a good anchorage, with plenty of wood and water. Sailing thence one league farther, they came to the Port of Guatulco, one of the best in the kingdom of Mexico. About a mile from the cast side of the harbour is a small island ; but the west side is the safest for shipping, affording shelter from the south-west winds, which are frequently violent, the water dashing furiously under the bottom of a rock, which it has under- mined, and which is perforated quite through, forming, even in the calm- est season, a natural jet d'eau ; and affording a good mark to seamen bound for this port. At the bottom of this harbour, which is a mile broad, and three miles in depth, there is a fine brook of fresh water, near which formerly stood a town sacked by Sir Francis Drake ; all that re- mains of which, at present, is an old chapel standing in the midst of a group of trees. Captain Swan, being unwell, went on shore at this place with the sick people and a surgeon, while Townley headed a party who marched to the eastward in search of houses and inhabitants ; and at a league from Guatulco came to a river called Capulita, which has a swift current, and is very deep. Some of the men swimming across the stream, seized two Indians, whom they apprehended were placed there as sentinels to watch their proceedings, though these were unacquainted with the Spa- nish tongue. They carried one on board the ship, and made use of the other to conduct them to an Indian settlement, where they found plenty of vinello, a perfume used in the West Indies, where it bears a high price, to infuse into chocolate, to which it gives a delicate flavour. It is a pod of four inches long, full of black seed, arising from a yellow flower, and produced by a kind of vine that grows up the trees which are near it, adhering to them like ivy. They sent four canoes to the westward on the 10th of October, in hopes of taking prisoners who had some knowledge of the country. The canoes were ordered to wait at Port Angelo for the ships, which on the 12th left the harbour of Guatulco, v/here they had taken in wood and water, and caught a considerable number of small turtle, which, as they had eaten no meat for a considerable time, were a great refreshment. Two of the canoes returned on the 22d, being separated from the rest, and having attempted to land at a place where they saw many black cattle feeding upon savannas ; but the sea running high, they were overturned ; four g:ms were lost, the rest of the arms spoiled with the water, and one man drowned. They had no news of the other two canoes till the 31st, when Captain Townley, who lay near the shore, hearing thefiiring of guns, manned one of his canoes, and stood in for the land." In the middle of 72 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. a salt water lake, at a distance within land, he saw the two canoes lying upon their oars, and perceiving by their disposition that they were beset on both sides, immediately put his men on shore, upon the approach of whom, some Spaniards, who being sheltered by the rocks had fired upon them, took to their heels, leaving the passage free to go out ; but they must certainly have starved or fallen a prey to the cruelty of the enemy, if Townley had not relieved them in this timely manner. Having thus recovered their canoes, they sailed on the 2d of November, and held a westward course, till they arrived at a large river, two leagues from the rock of Algatross, on the banks of which the Spaniards had raised a breast-work, which was defended by 200 men, notwithstanding which the English landed and obliged them to fly, after they had dis- charged twenty or thirty guns without effect. They now marched about three leagues up the country, and having taken a mulatto prisoner, he said that a ship, richly laden, was lately arrived at Lima from Acapulco ; upon which Townley proposed cutting her out of the harbour, and not- withstanding Captain Swan's remonstrances on the danger and difficulty of the attempt, and his representing the necessity they were under of supplying themselves with maize and other provisions, which abounded in the place where they now were, he carried his point ; and the canoes were accordingly manned for the expedition. They, however, were much damaged, narrowly escaping being lost in a tornado, and were afterward obliged to wait a whole day in Port Marquis, a league to the eastward of Acapulco. Here having dried their clothes and arms, they rowed softly, on the following night, into the harbour of Acapulco ; but on their arrival, found the ship so well guarded, as to be obliged to abandon the enterprise, and return in a very desponding condition. Landing afterward to the north-west of Pataplan hill, they marched, to the number of 170, a few miles up the country, to an Indian village, in which there was no provisions, nor any inhabitants to be found but a poor mulatto woman and four children, whom they carried aboard. The woman declared that a number of mules, laden with flour and other goods, de- signed for Acapulco, had stopped on the west of the village ; upon which information they sailed ts a harbour called Chequetan, where, on the 9th, they landed ninety-five men, who having the woman .for their guide, con- ducted them through a pathless wood into a plain, near which, at a farm- house, they found sixty mules laden with flour, cheese, chocolate, and earthen- ware ; all of which were carried ofT except the earthen-ware. They also discovered plenty of black cattle, upon which Captain Swan went on shore and killed eighteen. Quitting this river on the 21st of November, by the help of a land wind from the north, continued their course, in hopes of discovering the town of Cupan, supposed to be situated in about 18 degrees north latitude, but they could neither find this place nor the city of Colina, which was said to be very rich. They now rowed twenty leagues along shore, but could find no place convenient for landing, nor the least sign of inhabi- tants ; at length they saw a man on horseback, and having made the shore with some difficulty, pursued him, but soon lost sight of the fugitive in the woods, where they could find no track. Disappointed and dejected, they returned to their ships on the 28th, and next day 200 men were sent, in canoes in search of a town called Sallagua. As they rowed along, saw two horsemen on shore, one of whom drank to them out of a pocket-bottle in derision, in return for which one of the canoes fired a shot, which killed the horse under him after WILLIAM DAMPIER. 73 which his companion rode off; two of the men stripping, swam on shore to secure the dismounted man, but defending himself with a long knife, while they were unarmed, could not succeed in the attempt. On the 30th returned again to their ships, the sea running too high to find a convenient place for landing ; but on the 1st of December came in sight of the Port of Sallagua, which appears like two harbours, being parted by a high rocky point in the middle. Here they saw a number of Spaniards, both horse and foot, who made a military parade, with drums beating and colours flying ; but 200 of the bucaniers landing the next morning, the foot did not stand a single charge, and the horse soon fol- lowed. Two of the English having knocked two Spaniards off their horses, mounted and pursued the others so far that they were surrounded by them ; and would ha^'e undoubtedly been killed, if some of the swiftest of their companions had not come to their rescue just in time : as they had stood the discharge of several pistols, and were already unhorsed. Here was a broad stony road, which they were informed by two mulattoes, prisoners, led to the city of Oarrah, distant four long days' journey, the country being very thin of inhabitants all the way ; and that the troops they had put to flight were sent from that city to secure the Manilla ship which was to set some passengers on shore there. On this they sailed on the 6th, intending to cruise off Cape Corientes, to wait for the ship ; on the 11th, being within sight of the cape, they stationed themselves so as they imagined she could not pass ; but being in want of provisions, fifty or sixty men went in a bark to procure some, to the west of the cape, which being unable to get round, were obliged to return ; however, they left some men behind them in four canoes, who intended to row to the west. On the 24th, the four canoes meeting with very indifferent success, returned to the ships near the cape, having, by the help of their canoes, got round it and landed in the Valderas, or valley of flags. This vale lying at the bottom of a deep bay, is about three leagues wide. On the land side it is bounded by a green hill, which, descending gradually into the valley, affords a delightful prospect, rendered still more beautiful by the wide-spread pastures stored with cattle, and the pleasant groves of guaivas, orange, and lime trees, which grow wild here in prodigious numbers. In this delightful place the canoes landed thirty-seven men, who, advancing three miles into the country, were at- tacked by 150 Spaniards, horse and fool ; when, to avoid the trampling of the horses, the bucaniers retired to a close wood, where they sustained the attack of the enemy with great bravery, killing the leader and seven- teen of the horsemen, and the rest flying. The English lost four men, besides two wounded, who were brought down to the canoes upon horses ; one of the latter they were obliged to kill and eat, for though there were plenty of horned cattle upon the savanna, they were afraid to venture there again, their enemies being too strong. On the 25th, being Christmas day, they regaled on some Jew fish ; and, on the 28th, Captain Townley returned on board with forty bushels of maize, which he had taken at an Indian village up the country, five leagues to the east of Cape Corientes. Their provisions being again exhausted, they steered to the vale of Valderas, to provide a supply of beef, coming to an anchor about a mile from the.shore, in sixty fathom water. Here 240 men landed, fifty of whom were appointed to watch the motions of the Spaniards (who frequently appeared in large com- panies, but dared not attack them) while the rest were employed in kill- ing and salting as many cows as would sufliice for two months, their salt 7 74 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. being insufficient for a longer time. Here spending six or seven Jays, the Manilla ship passed by to the eastward, as they afterward learned from some prisoners whom they happened to seize. The ioss of this prize is attributed to the wLlfulaess of Captain Townley, who woald msist on attempting to take the Lima ship in the harbour of Acapulco^ when they ought to h.ave been providing themselves with beef and maize, which afterward, being absolutely in want of, they were compelled to do, while the ship escaped them. Townley's chief view in cruising in these seas being the hope of meeting the ship, and that no-w being at an end, he and Swan parted compauy ; Swan keeping on a westward coarse, and Townley going back to th£ east ; but the former alone it is our bu- siness to follow. Sailing from the bay on the 7th of January, 1686^ with a good wind at north-east, at night passed by Point Pontiq.ue, the most westerly end of the valley of Valderas. On the 20th,. anchored on the east side of the Chametly islands, which are six in number, and lie in twenty-three decrees eleven minutes north latitude. More Captain Swan, taking 100 men with him, proceeded to the north- ward to discover the River Cullacan, supposed to lie in a province of the same name, in twerity-four degrees north latitude, and to have a wealthy town on its banks. They rowed thirty leagues without seeing any signa of the river, or any place where to land with safety ; but afterward dis- embarked on the west side of a salt lake, seven leagues from the Chametly islands, where they found some few bushels of maiz.e in a farm house, and took a prisoner. This man informed them there were generally a considerable number of black cattle in that place, which the Spaniards had driven off; but that in all probability they would find pro- visions in an Indian town about five leagues distance, to which they im- mediately marched. Here they were opposed, on attempting to enter it, by a considerable party of Spaniards and Indians, whom they repulsed at the first charge ; and entering the place, found two or three wounded Indians, who told them the town was called Massactan, and that there were two rich gold mines about five leagues distant. On the 2d of February, eighty men were sent to. a town .called Rosario, situated on a river of the same name ; and though they were told the mines were not above two leagues thence, yet, as they were more in want of provisions than of gold, they paid no regard to the infonaation, contenting them- selves with carrying otf about ninety bushels of maize. Quitting Rosario for the River of St. Jago, in hopes of finding a town of some consequence, seventy men were sent up the river in canoes, while the ships anchored at its mouth. They soon found a corn-fieid, and while busy gathering maize, took an Indian, who informed them that four leagues farther was a town called Santa Pecaque. As soon as the news went on board, Captain Swan ordered eight canoes and 140 men to proceed with the Indian to the place. They sailed some miles up the river, and then landing, marched through woods and plains for three or four hours, and then approaching the town, and the Spaniards quitting it, the bucaniers entered without opposition. The town of Santa Pecaque, near which are some silver mines, is situated in a large plain on the borders of a wood. It is neatly built, but not large, has a square market-place in the middle, and two churches. Here they found plenty of salt fish, salt, sugar, and maize, and the captain dividing his people into two companies, ordered half to carry the provisions on board, and the other half to take care of the town ; WILLIAM DAMPIER. 75 riiey continued this business for two days, but a mutinous spirit getting among the rnen, they refused to march with the regularity the captain vvishe'd, so that fifty-four hor:ies, guided by fifty men, who were convey- ing maize to the canoes, were attacked by the Spaniards, who killed ihem every one upon the spot ; and though Captain Swan marched to their relief, the enemy, who it is likely had paid pretty dear for the vic- tory, nevei attempted to attack him ; the rest of the men returned safely on board with their commander. On the day following this unhappy engagement, the captain gave or- ders for filling water and sailing ; accordingly, they got under sad the 21st, steerincr toward California. On the 7th of February, anchored at Prince George's Island, the middlemost of the Tres Marias, at which place our autnor, who was much atilicted with the dropsy, was buried for about half an hour up to llie neck in the hot sand, which producing a plentiful l)er.spiralion, lie was then wrapped up warm, and put to bed in a tent, by which means he obtained great relief in the disorder. They remained here careening till the 26th ; but as no fresh water could be got, it being a dry season, they sailed to a rivulet on the continent, near Cape Cori- entes, where they remained for some time ; and having had but indifferent success in these parts, came to a resolution of steering for the East Indies, to which voyage many of the men were averse. Captain Swan, however, Mr. Dampier, and a majority of the people, declared in favour of the attempt. They sailed for Cape Corientes on the 31st of March, 1G8G, and having a trade-wind and fair weather, proceeded quickly in their voyage. On the 20lh of May, about four o'clock, discovered land, at eight leagues distance, to their great joy, having then but three days' provisions left, and the people beginning to murmur at the captain for carying thorn so far out of their knowledge. About eleven at night, on the 21st of May, they came to an anchor about a mile from shore, on the west side of the Island of Guam, one of the Ladrones ; and the next morning Captain Swan wrote a letter, which he sent with some presents to the governor; who, in return, sent plenty of hcgs, cocoa nuts, rice, fifty pounds of fine Manilla tobacco, and other refreshments. Here the captain being informed by a friar, who came on board, that the Philippines abounded with provisions, they made sail on the 2d of June, arid on the 21st arrived at the Island of St. John, which he passed by, and came to an anchor in a small bay, on the east side of Mindanao, which had been represented as the most plentiful of these islands. The Philippines are a range of large islands, extending from five to nineteen degrees of north latitude. .The chief is called Luconia, where Magellan was killed by a poisoned arrow, and is now in possession of the Spaniards. St John and Mindanao are the only islands of all the Philip- pines which are not under Spanish subjection ; and are situated most to tlie .south. St. John is in length about thirty-eight leagues ; its greatest breadth is about twenty-four, and the soil is very fertile. Mindanao is sixty leagues in length, and between forty and fifty in breadth ; the soil ia good, and there are some stony hill?, which produce many kinds of trees entirely unknown in Enghnd. The valleys are well watered, and abound with yams, potatoes, pumpkins, watermelons, plantains, bana- nas, guaivas, nutmeg:?, cloves, bctle nuts, durians, cocoas, oranges, &c., but particularly the tree whence sago is gathered, which the inhabitants call the libby tree, arid which grows wild by the water-side, in groves of several miles in length. 76 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. The people in general resemble each other in strength, stature, and colour ; they are not large, but well limbed, with little black eyes, oval faces, fiat foreheads, short noses, wide moutlis, black teeth and hair, and bright tawny skina. They never cut their thumb-nails,, but sometime? scrape them ; and that of the left hvind is generally thsr longest. They are th i\iah. and indolent, not caring to woik hard, except they are drove to it ; but ingenious and nimble^ and very civil to strangers. The men neither wear &hoes nor stockings, but breeches and frocks, and have a turban tied once round the head in a knot, the ends^ hanging down, and either laced or fringed. The women have smaller features than the in«n, and look agreeable enough at a ;li.-;l:ince ; but their noses are so very small, that in some scarce any rising between the eyes can be discerned. They have alsa very small feet. They wear their hair tied in a knot, hanging down their backs. Thdr garments are a piece of cloth, which forms a kind of pet- ticoat, and a loose frock that reaches a little below the waist, the sleeves of which are so narre>w that they cnn hardly get their hands through, but are longer than their arms, and set in plaits round their wrists. They have a custom peculiar to the city of Mindanao. On the arrival of strangers, the men come on board to invite them to their houses, where it is asked if they choose a pagally, or comrade, which the stran- ger, through civility, is obliged to accept ; and, to show their gratitude 'for which, must make a small present ; in return for which, they have- the liberty of eating, drinking, and sleeping in their friend'^& house as oftert as they please. The most populous and estensiire district in the island is Mindanao, whence it derives its nam-e ; the people are tolerably well civilized, lying near the sea, and being pretty much engaged in commerce. Dampier does not pretend to describe all the different people of this island ; but informs us, that the most remarkable anrong them are the Hillanoons, who inhabit the inland mounlainous part of the country, and are proprie- tors of the gold mines. The houses of Mindanao are built upon posts eighteen or twenty feet high, to which tl>ey ascend by a ladder. The building consists only of one flour, which is divided into several rooms. The roof is of palm leaves, and in the space under the house the common people keep ducks and fowls. The house of the sultan stands upon 150 great posts, ami is much higher than the rest, with brojid steps leading up to it. In the first room are twenty iron guns on carriages ; the general and other great men have also guns in their houses. Near this is another, raised about four feet from the ground, where the sukan and his council sit cross-legged on rich carpets, to give audience to ambassadors and foreign merchants. The floors of the houses in general are well matted, as no chairs are used in the country. The common people feed on fish, rice, arxi sago, but the better sort have buffaloes and fowls, which they dress with a great deal of rice ; but are miserable cooks. Tliey use no spoons, but take up food with their fingers, and usually wash after meals. Bathing is much practised among these people, a beneficial custom in hot countries ; and it is common for them to go into the river, strip themselves, wash their clothes, put them on again, and go about their business. Some speak Spanish, but the most common languages are the Malayan and that of Mindanao. They have frequently invited the English to settle among ihem, but are afraid of the Dutch and Spaniard.^. Almost every person here is a goldsmith, blacksmith, or carpenter. They build good ships, ^YILLIAM DAMPIER. 77 adapted for trade or pleasure, and deal in gold, bees- wax, and tobacco, the last of which is better than that of Manilla, which may probably be owing to the difference of the soil. Agues, fevers, fluxes, are the most common disorders ; for all which diseases the country affords sufficient Biedicines, which the people very well know how to prepare and use. The sultan is despotic, but so poor, that if he knows any of his subjects have money, .he will borrow it, nor do they dare to refuse him. He had, in Dampier's time, besides his sultana, tweaty-ni'iie concubines, and was then between fifty and sixty years of a^e. Several of t\\e concubines would beg trifles of the sailors whom they met in the streets. When the sultan went abroad, he was carried in a litter upon four men's shoulders, attend- ed by a guard of eight or ten men, but he never went far from the •city, as the adjacent country was woody, and inconvenient for travelling. Sometimes he took pleasure on the wal-er with his women, in a neat vessel built for that purpose, with a cabin made of bamboo, and divided into three rooms ; in one of which he reposed on a carpet, whereon little pillows were laid for his head ; the women attended in the second ; and the servants, with betle and tobacco, waited inthethirtl. He sometimes makes war with the mountaineers ; the weapons they use are swords, lances, and a sort of bayonet called a cresset, which is worn by all per- sons from the highest to the lowest. They fight no pitched battles in the field, but make small wooden forts, which they defend by guns, and from which they sally to surprise each other in small parties ; but neither give nor take quarter. The ouly music they have are bells without clappers, which are com- monly sixteen in number, and increase in weight from three pounds to ten. These being placed upon a table, are struck with a stick, and pro- duce an uncouth disagreeable noise. Mr. Dampier heard a set of these in the house of the king's brother, whose son being to be circumcised, occasioned their being used for several days together, previous to the ceremony. They have women who sing and dance to the music of their own voices, and others dance with them : nor aie the sultan's children above joining in these gambols. These people observe the Ramadam, or fasting time, in the month of August, beginning at one new moon and continuing till the next, during which time they fast till the evening, then go to prayers for an hour, and afterward feast heartily. They have so great an aversion to swine's flesh as not to permit a person who has touched a hog to enter their houses for some days afterward ; yet there are great numbers of these animals running wild about the island, which they often requested Captain Swan's people to destroy. The sultan's brother having desired to have a pair of shoes from one of the sailors, but being told that they were sewed with threads pointed with hogs' bristles, he returned them in a great passion, and desired to have a pair sewed in some other manner, and was extremely pleased that his request was complied with. As the people of the island proved civil, and as the season of the year was far advanced, Captain Swan began to entertain thoughts of staying at Mindanao for a considerable time ; and thinking that, in this case, it would be proper to make a friend of the sultan, he sent Mr. Moore on shore with three yards of scarlet cloth and three of silver lace, as a present. An audience being granted to him about nine o'clock at night by the sultan, his interpreter conversed with him above an hour in Spa- nish ; after which he and his people were entertained with an excellent •upper. Next day Captain Swan visited the sultan, and was entertained 7» 78 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. v;ith betle and tobacco ; two letters were shown him, one from the East India company of London, who had entertained thoiiglits of building a fort there ; and the other, which was directed to any Englishman who might happen to stop there, was from one Captain Goodlud, and concluded with these words, "Trust none of them, they are all thieves." One of the general's men had stolen some goods from this Captain Goodlud, and fled to the mountains. This fellow being taken while Captain Swan was upon the island, the sultan would have delivered him to the captain to be punished ; but Swan refusing to interfere in the business, the sul- tan, to manifest his love of justice, ordered him to be bound to a post by the hands and feet, where he was exposed the whole day to the heat of the sun and the stinging of the moschetoes. In consequence of this equitable behaviour in the sultan, Captain Swan gave positive orders that none of his people should oltend the natives ; and he punished Mr. Teat, his chief-mate, for some slight fault^e had been guilty of. The chief- general. Raja Laut, being at variance with the sultan, was not present when Captain Swan held his conference with his majesty, but be waited his return, and treated him and his people very hospitably with rice and fowls boiled. Raja was a person of exceeding good understanding, wrote the Spanish language, and spoke it fluently, was conversant in books of that language, and not unacquainted with the customs of European na- tions. He was very friendly to Captain Swan, gave him his best advice, and offered him the use of his house while he remained on the island. As the tempestuous weather began to approach, the sailors, by the help of fifcy or sixty fishermen, hauled the ship up the river, where they dug a hole and moored lier, so that she was always afloat ; and the inhabitants coming on boaid, all the men were soon provided with pagallys, or com- rades, who behaved in a very friendly manner to them. Captain Swan was usually attended with trumpets at his dinner, the music of which aflforded Raja Laut the highest entertainment. The city of Mindanao, which is a mile in length, and situated on the bank of the river, is a perfect pond during the wet season, and the ship would have been in the utmost danger from the large pieces of timber which were washed down by the floods, had not great care been taken to preserve her. When these began to abate, Captain Swan hired a ware- house, where he kept his goods and sails while the ship was careening ; and remarking that Raja Laut was exceedingly fond of dancing, sent for his violins onshore, with some of the m.en to entertain him. Among the rest one John Thacker, a frugal fellow, who had saved money enough to dress himself genteelly, and who had learned to dance at same of the music houses in Wapping, was mistaken by the general for a nolrfeman, and one of the sailors confirmed him in his error. But the a.ff:\h coming to the knowledge of the captain, the tar was thrashed for the imposition; and the general was undeceived, but could never afterward endure the sight of the fellow. When careening the ship, they found that a most astonishing number of worms had eaten into her bottom during her stay in the harbour ; but having new sheathed this, they steered out on the 10th of December, and began to fill water, and carry rice on board. The general, however, who had his views in detaining the vessel, kept several of the men on shore hunting with him, under pretence of stocking the ship with beef; but Mr. Dampier, who was one of the hunting party, says, that in ten days' excursion they met with only four cows, and of these were not able to catch any one. Captain Swan now began to en- tertain thoughts of quitting the island, with a view to take in a lading ot WILLIAM DaMPIER. 79 spice at an adjacent island, which has been since in possession of the Dutch ; but the men expected he would have continued the privateering, which he was extremely averse to, though he carefully concealed it from them. Raja Laut had a hunting match in search of black cattle the day after Christmas-day, iu which he was accompanied by all his wives, and five or six Englishmen : in this expedition they killed three heifers, but he and his company took care to drink so plentifully of a very agreeable liquor, ex- tracted from rice, that they were drunk two or three times before night. At this time one of the men happening by accident to find Captain Swan's journal, showed it to his companions ; and as they found he had made remarks on the smallest oftence of every sailor on board, and been very free in his reflections on the crew in general, they determined to deprive him of the command, choosing Mr. Read captam, and Mr. Teat master ; and having resolved to cruise before Manilla, they set sail on the 14th of January, 1687, leaving Captain Swan and thirty-six men on shore. Mr. Dampier was among those who left Mindanao. On the 3d of February they anchored oflF an island to the west of the Isle of Sebo, tlie name of which they did not know, in latitude nine degrees fifteen minutes, where neither house nor inhabitants were seen, but a prodi- gious number of largo bats, the wings of some of which, when extended, measured eight feet from tip to tip, and were edged with sharp crooked claws, which clung fast to anything they happened to touch. They sailed from this place on the 10th of February, coasting along the west side of the Philippine islands. On the ISch came to an anchor at the north-west end of Mindora, an island forty leagues in length. Here they found a small river of fresh water, running into the sea, near the place where they lay at anchor, and savi? plenty of oxen and hogs, but so wild they could not catch them. During their stay, a canoe from Manilla, with four Indians on board, came and gave information that in the harbour of Manilla there were generally twenty or thirty vessels be- longing to the Spaniards, Portuguese, and Chinese, and that if inclined to engage in a clandestine trade, they would carry letters to some mer- chants of that place. Left this place on the 2Ist ; on the 23d arrived at the south-east end of the Island of Luconia, where they took two barks bound to Manilla, from Pagassanam, a small town on this island. Luconia is near 60 leagues broad, and not less than 120 in length ; it is surrounded by many small islands, of which Mindora, the principal, lies nearest, and gives its name to a channel between it and the former. The country is partly composed of mountains, which afford some gold, and partly of large pas- ture-plains, stored with buffaloes, cows, horses, sheep, goats, and hogs. It is said to be extremely healthy, though situated in fifteen degrees north latitude ; and its water is esteemed the best in the world. It is inhabited by Indians, who live in small towns, and are instructed in the Roman Catholic religion by Spanish priests. Manilla is the chief, if not the only city, seated at the foot of a ridge of high hills. It is defended by a strong wall ; the houses are spacious, strong, and covered with tiles ; the streets large and regular, with a market-place in the middle. It is adorned with several churches and convents, and the harbour is very large. The city is well watered, and the country about it is fruitful and plentiful. Its chief trade is with Acapulco. As the season of the year was too far advanced to think of trade, they determined to sail for Pulo Condore, the chief of a cluster of small is- lands oa the coast of Cambodia, and to return in the month of May, to BO VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. lie in wait for the Acapulco ship ; accordingly they sailed from Lnconia on the 36th of February, and anchored on the north side of Pulo Con- dore on the 14th of March. This island, the only one of the cluster that is inhabited, produces several kinds of trees, among which is a very tall one, between three and four feet in diameter ; from an incision made jn the trunk of which they distilled a liquor, that when heated a little, had the virtues of tar, and being kept longer over the fire, acquired the consistence of pitch, in lieu of which it was used with success. One of these trees affords two quarts of juice daily, for a month together ; after which, drying up, it recovers itself again. Mango trees are also produced here, the fruit of which is pickled while green with salt, vinegar, and garlic. The fruit is about the size of a small peach, very juicy and plea- sant, and is so fragrant as to perfume the air at some distance On this island grows a straight tree, about a foot in diameter, upon which grapes grow in clusters about the body o-f the tree, like the fruit of the cocoa tree, and have a very pleasant taste. There is also a kind of bastard nutmeg, which exactly resembles the true, but has neither smell nor taste. Here are hogs, guanoes, and lizards, together with several sorts of fowl, as j>arrots, paroquets, wild cocks and hens, turtle-doves and pigeons. The sea-shore abounds with muscles, limpets, and turtle. The inhabitants, who came originally from Cochin China, are small, but well shaped ; of a dark complexion, long visage, black hair, thin lips, little eyes, and white teeth ;. very civil, but poor ; their chief employment consisting in supplying vessels with the juice of the tar tree, and making turtle oil, by boiling the fat of the fish, which they send to Cochin China. These people are mostly idolaters ; but Dampier does not pretend to be acquainted with the ceremonies of their religion ; only he imagines they worship the elephant and the horse, having observed a representation of the latter on the outside, and of the former in the inside of a temple, which was a mean wooden building, in a sn>aU village on the south side of the island. They staid at this place from the 16th March to the 16ih of April, during which they careened the ship, and made her a fresh suit of sails out of the cloth taken on board the Spanish prize. While remaining here, the inhabitants supplied them with plenty of hogs, turtle, and fruit, for which they took rice in exchange. Having unloaded the prize taken at Manilla, they went to the north side of the island to supply themselves with water, and then taking on board a person who understood the Malay language to pilot them to Siam, with which place, as well as the islands lying on the road, he pretended to be acquainted, they set sail on the 17th of April, and entered the Bay of Siam on the 24tb, where the pilot ran them aground. At this place Captain Read went on shore among the islands in search of fish, but returned without success ; and steering for Pulo Ubi, at which place they had touched in their passage hither, found two vessels at anchor, laden with lacquer, such as is used in japanning. These vessels, one of which was remarkably neat, had on board forty sailors, brisk sociable fellows, armed with guns, swords, and lances. They returned to Pulo Condore on the 21st of May, where was found a small bark at anchor, to hail which Captain Read sent a canoe along side of her ; but charged his men not to venture on board, without having first made friends of the people, lest they should be Malays, whom he knew to be remarkably treacherous. However, the men neglected his orders, and boarded her, but were soon obliged to re- treat, being attacked with a kind of bayonets, called cresses, and compelled to leap into the sea and swim for their lives ; and it is not a little ex- WlLLlAitf DAJtPiER. 81 Vraordinary, iKat one of the men, named Daniel Wallis, ^vfiirt\ on that occasion, though he could never swim before, nor was able to repeat it afterward. Captain Read manned two canoes, in order to punish these people : but as soon as they saw the English advancing, escaped into the woods, having first cut a hole in the bark's bottom, and sunk her. Quitting Pulo Condore with a south-west wind On the 4th of June, 1687, intending to cruise off Manilla, the wind soon changed to the south- ieast, and they were forced on the coast of China, and coming to an an- chor on the north-ifiast of St. John's Island, lying in 2S degrees 30 minutes north latitude. The skirts Of this spot, bordering the sea, are for the most patt woody : the soil is generally fertile ; and in the inland pfarts there are good pas- ture-'grounds and many grov^es of trees. They have plenty of tame ducks, tocks, and hens, but nO wild fowls : buffaloes, bullocks, goatSj and China hogs are very plenty. These hogs are black, have tshort necks, small beads, short legs, and bellies whfch sv\'Oep the ground. The natives chiefly maintain themselves by cultivating rice. They are tall, raw-boned, straight-bodied men ; have tawny complexions, long faces, acqujline noses, Bmall eyes, black hair, and thin beards, which arc tied up in knots, or r.urled in whiskers on each side of their lips. They were formerly very proud of their hair, but the Tartars, when they marde a conquest of this country, compelled theirv to shave their heads, leaving only one lock on the crown of the head, which they permit to grow to a great length, and sometimes it flows loose, though it is generally platted. It is as mueh as the life cf a Chinese is worth, to be found with long hair ; and many have been known to abandon their country rather than part with it. They wear no covering for the head, but instead, use an umbrella to shade them from the weather ; a large fan is Used fOr the same purpose, if they have but a little way to go. They Wear nO stockings, but slippers ou their feet, and the covering is a light frock and breeches. The women On this island, as well as those on the continent of China^ are compelled to be much at home, on account of the smallncss of their feet, which are bound up prodigiously tight in their infancy to prevent their growing, small feet being esteemed a great beauty ; for this reason they only stumble about their houses, being obliged to sit dov;n at the lend of every two or three steps. They make very curious embroidery for their shoes, and in general are excellent needle-women. The feet of the poorer women are suffered to grow nxuch larger, that they may be able to produce their subsistence. Tliere is 4 small town On the island^ situated in marshy ground, the houses of which are mean, lowly^ badly furnished, and built upon posts. While at anchor, a Chinese junk lay near them, flat both at the head and stern, having little huts three feet high on the deck, which were covered with palmetto leaves. She had a large cabin, with an altar and lamp burning in it. The hold was divided into several partitions, each so tight, that if a leak should spring in one, the goods in the ne.Kt would receive no damage. Every merchant has his particular room, where he stows his goods, and someticnes lodges in it himself. This has only two masts, a main-mast and fore -mast ; the last has a square sail and square yard, but the main-mast has a sail narrow aloft, like a sloOp's sail. In fair weather they use also a top-sail, which in foul weather they haul dovvn on deck, yard and all. The main-mast of the largest junks is as large as that of our third-rate men-of-v/ar, but made all out of one tree and not pieced as ours are. 82 VOYAGES ROUND THE WoRL£>- Perceiving all imaginable signs of an approaching storm, on the 3cl of July they weighed anchor, and got out to sea with all possible expedition, that they might not want room. About eleven o'clock at night the storm overtook them, which lasted with prodigious fierceness till about four in the morning, when the hopes of the superstitious sailors were revived by the sight of a corpus sanctum upon the niain-mast, which they looked upoii as the forerunner of good weather, but had it been upon deck, they would have esteemed it a certain sign of being lost. The corpus sanctum is a small glittering light like a star, which usually dances about a ship in hard weather. By eleven o'clock the nexf mornmg it was stark calm ; after which the storm raged more violently than ever ; and as they dread- ed the continuance of bad weather during this moon, which Vv'as near the full, they determined to steer away for the Piscadores, or Fisher islands, which he in 33 degrees north latitude. On the 20th of July, gained sight of them, and came to an anchor between the two easternmost islands, on the west side of one of which they wore agreeably surprised to find a large town, with a fort commanding the harbour, the houses of which were neatly built, but low. Some of the men who went on shore were carried before the governor, who, being informed that they were English, and intended to trade, said they must not pretend to do it, as it was a thing absolutely forbidden tliere. He treated them, however, with great civility, and said he would assist them as much as lay in his power, sending a present to the captain, of a small jar of flour, some watermelons, about a dozen pine apples, and some cakes of fine brertd. They were visited the next day by an officer of a very grand appearance, dressed in a loose coat, with breeches and boots of 'olack silk, and a black silk cap, on which was a plume of black and white feathers. He brought on board with him, us a present from the governor, a very fat heifer, two large hogs, four goats, two baskets of flour, twenty large flat cakes of bread, two jars of sam-shu, or arrack, and fifty-five jars of hoc-shu, a strong pleasant liquor resembling mum, and which is extracted from wheat. In return for these presents Captain Read sent the governor a silver-hilted sword, a carbine, and a gold chain ; and on the gentleman's return, he was saluted with three guns. They sailed from the Piscadores with a south-v/est wind on the 29th of July, steering for some Httle islands between Formosa and Luconia, known by no other name than the Five isles, which they imagined to be uninhabited ; but, to tlieir great surprise, found three poj)u]ous towns, all Aithin a league from the sea. One of these, about eight leagues long and two broad, they called the Prince of Orange Island, in honour of the Prince of Orange, afterward King William the Third. To another Dam- pier gave the name of Grafton, in honour of the Duke of Grafion, in whose family his wife then lived ; and a third was called Monmouth Is- land, in honour of the Duke of Monmouth ; these were ihe three largest, and of the otliers, one they called the Goat Island, from the number of goats they saw upon it, and the other Bashee, from a pleasant liquor of that name, which they drank there. Orange Island, though the largest, is uninhabited, being rocky and barren ; on Goat Island there is one town, Dut Monmouth and Grafton Islands contain a great number of inhabitants. The hills of these isles are rocky, but the valleys are fertile in grass, plan- tains, bananas, pine apples, pumpions, sugar Canes, potatoes, and cotton. Thev are well waiered with running streams, and stored with goats and hogs, but have scarcely any fowl, either wild or tame. The natives are short and thick, round-visaged, with low foreheads, WILLIAM DAMPIER* 83 and thick eye-brows ; their noses flattish and short, their eyes of a hazel colour and small, hut not so small as those of the Chinese; their lips and mouths of the middle size, with white teeth, and black thick straight hair, which they cut short, so as not to permit it to cover their ears. Their comj)lcxion is a dark copper colour. The men go bare-headed ; some wear no clothes but a cloth about the middle, but others have a kind of jacket made of plantain leaves, as rough as a bear's skin. Th^ women have a short petticoat of coarse calico, of their own making, which reaches a little below the knees. Both sexes wear ear-rings made of a yellow metal, which they dig out of the mountains ; it is of th& weight of tru5 gold, but rather paler. Our author is not absolutely cer tain whether it was real gold or not, for though of a fine colour at first it afterward faded, which making the people on board suspect it, they did not buy much. They observed the natives cover it with a kind of red earth, and then put it into a quick fire, till it was red-hol, which broughs it to its former colour again. The houses axe very small, and not above five feet in height, built witb small posts fastened together with boughs. At one end of the house iN the fire-place, near which he a number of boards, on which they sleep. They inhabit villages built on the sides of rocky hills, three or four rowf of houses being one above another. These rocky precipices are framed by nature into deep steps or stories, upon each of which they build ». ruw of their houses, and ascend from one row or street to the other by ladders, which being drawn up, there is no possibility of climbing to at - tack them. The street to every row of houses runs parallel to the tops of the houses of the row beneath, and the ladder by which they ascenflr is placed in the middle of the street. These people live mostly by fish- ing boats, whi I'hey have also larger vessels, which are managed with twelve or four- ing, and are very expert in building boats, which resemble our yawls teen oars. What husbandry aflairs they carry on, are managed chiefly by the women. It was customary for them to beg the paunches of thft hogs and goats killed by the ship's crew, the contents of which they puV into a pot, and then boiling it, eat it with raw fish ; but they have a dish made of locusts, which is not ill tasted. These insects coming at cer- tain seasons to devour their plants, are caught with nets, and bake or boil them in an earthen pan. Their common drink is water, but they have also a strong and intoxicating liquor called baahec, made of tha sugar cane, boiled and mixed with some blackberries, which is put int<> jars and kept five or six days, and then it greatly resembles English bee% both in colour and taste. Dampier does not pretend to he acquainted with their language, which is neithev like the Chinese nor Malay ; but he observes that the yiWow metal already mentioned, is called by the name of bullawar, which is the word that the Indians of the Philippine islands use for gold. They have no arms but lances, headed with iron, and wear a kind of coat of mail made of the skin of the buffalo, which is as thick as a board, has no sleeves, and reaches down to the calves of their legs. These people appeared to have no religion or government, nor any precedency among them, except that the children were very obedient to their parents ; but \e fancies they have aficient customs which serve them for laws, for they saw a young lad buried alive, as they supposed for theft. Each man has only one wife, who is very obedient to her husband. Their boys are brought up to fishing, and the girls work on the plantations with their mothers, where each faiiuly cultivates as much ground as is necessary 84 VOYAGES ftClUND THE t^(5Rl0. for its own supply. They are civil, good-tempered people, neither quarrel^ ling among themselves nor with others. They have no coin, but pass their yellow metal as money, which they pay away by guess. On the ship's first anchoring here, about a hundred boats, filled with the natives^ came round her at once, and made no scruple of going on board, ex- changing yams, potatoes, and bashee, for leaden bullets, spikes, and old nails ; a fat goat for an old iron hoop ; and a fat hog of eighty pounds weight for two or three pounds of iron. On the 35th of September our adventurers were driven out to sea by a violent storm, which continued to such a degree till the 29th, that they were every moment in danger of being swallowed by the waves ; and it tvas the 1st of October before they could get back to Bashee Island. The men were so discouraged by this, that they determined to lay aside all thoughts of cruising before Manilla, and were more inclined to a home- ward voyage Chan to any dthfer enterprise ; but Captain Read and Mr. Teat at length persuaded them to steer for Cape Comorin, by going round lo the east of the Philippine islands, and so keeping south Of the Spice islands, to pass into the Indian Ocean, about the Island of Timor ; in- stead of which, as the eastern monsoon was at band, our author observe*^ that their nearest and best way would have been to have passed through the straits of Malacca. They quitted these islands with fair weather, and wind at west, on the 3d of October^ 1087; and, on the 10th of the same month, anchored between two small islands to the south of Mindanao, where they hauled the ship on shore to clean her bottom, and made a new fore-topmast, a pump, a fore-yard, and a bowsprit. At this place a young prince, belong- ing to one of the adjacent Spice islands, came on board and informed them that Captain Swan and his men, whom thcy left behind them, ha(i fought under Raja Laut with good success against the mountaineers, and the captain was in great esteem at Mindanao. Being now so near him, our author would have persuaded the men to submit once more to his authority ; but the affair coming to the knowledge of Captain Read, he took care to prevent it. After this, Mr. Dampier learned that most of Swan's men got on board different ships, but that he himself and the surgeon going on board a Dutch vessel, were overset by the natives and drowned ; and that there was some grounds to imagine that this murdef was perpetrated by order of Raja Laut, partly in revenge for some slight- ing expressions which Swan had imprudently uttered, and partly for the sake of some gold which the captain had amassed, and which, by his death, fell into the hands of the general. Thev sailed hence on the 2d of November ; on the 22d, being three leagTies to the southward of the Island of Celebes, saw a large proa, in which were sixty men, attended by six smaller ones, to whom they hoisted Dutch colours, but in vain, with a view to allure them on board. On the coast of this island saw cockles so prodigiously large, that one was suf- ficient to feed seven or eight people. A kind of vine also grew here, the leaves of which being pounded with hog's lard, made an excellent salve for wounds. In three degrees south latitude, on the 30th of November, they discovered three water-spouts : these are very dangerous to ship- ping, but the ill consequences of them are sometimes prevented by firing great guns in order to break them. They are first formed upon the sur- face of the sea, the water of which, after whirling about a long time in the circumference of perhaps a hundred paces, flies up in a pyramidieal form to a cloud, which crowns it, and along with which it drives upon th« WtLtiAM tiAMPlER. §S tvater, until the suction being spent, the spout separates from the cloud, and the water falls again into the sea with a dre-adful noise, and destroys whatever may happen to be beneath it. On the Ist of December steered a southern conrse, and on the 6th came to an anchor bn the east side of the Island of Duttbuj lying in four degrees fifty-four minutes eouth latitude. This island is flat and woody, about twenty-five leagues long and ten broad. At half a mile from the sea is CallasUsUng, the residence of the sultan ; it is a long town, seated on the top of a small hill, in a pleasant plain, enclosed with a strong stone wall, within which is a walk of Cocoa trees. The inhabitants are neat, clean, small, and well shaped ; in manners and complexion resembling those of Mindanao. They are Mahometans, and speak the Malay tongue. The sultan, hearing the ship was English, came on bbard with three of his sons, attended by sonie of his nobles, and assured Captain Read he would serve him 10 the best cf his power, and that he was willing to tradR with his subjects for whatever he pleased. The captain caused him to be saluted with five guns ori coming on board, and the same number when he went on shore. The people brought on board plenty of potatoes, eggs, fowlsj and other provisions : and the next day Read, agreeable to an invitation, visited the sultan at his palace, which was a very neat building. He was recfeived in a room on the ground floor, covered with mats, after having first passed through a lane of forty soldiers, armed with lances, who were quite naked ; and vs^as entertained with tobacco, betle, and cocoa nuts. Some time after, the sultan made him a present of two goats, and a boy, each of whose jaws were lined with two rows of teeth. The island abounded in rice and potatoes^ and several beauti- ful birds, particularly paroquets and cockadores. The cockadore is as white as snow, with the shape and bill of a partbt, and has a bunch of feathers like a crown on its head. Captain Read remained here till thd 12th, but in attemj3ting to wfeigh, broke the cable and lost the anchor, which had hooked on a rock. On the 16th got elear of the shoals, which lie in great numbers about thia island ; and on the 20th passed the Island of Omba, which in some maps is called Pentara, where they saw thick smokes by day and large fires by night. There is a good town on the north side of this island, near the sea ; but they could not stand in for it, on account of the badness of the weather. Being clear of all the islands by the 27th, they steered for New Holland, which land they fell in with on the 4th of January, 1688, in latitude sixteen degrees fifty minutes south. They ran twelve leagues along the shore before they could find a proper place to anchor in ; but the following day discovered a good harbour, and came to an anchor at the distance of two miles from the shore. New Holland is a vast tract of land, which joins neither to Asia, Africa, nor America ; but it is uncertain whether it is part of the main continent, or an island. The land is dry and sandy : near where they anchored there were no rivers ; sd that what fresh water they had was got by dig- ging. The country produces many kinds of trees, which grow at a dis- tance from each other, having under them pretty long grass. From one of these trees distilled a gum, which, on examination, appeared to be gum-dragon. They saw no animals, but discovered the footstep Of some beast that appeared to be like that of a mastilf dog. They found no fruits, and very few birds, the largest of which was no bigger than a thrush ; and the sea appeared almost destitute of fish, except the mana- tee and turtle. The inhabitants of this coputry appear to be the most 8 86 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. miserable people on earth ; having no garments except a piece of the bark of a tree tied like a girdle round the waist ; no houses or coverings, but the heavens ; no sheep, poultry, or fruits ; their food being a small sort of fish, brought in with every tide, and left in stone weirs, which are erected on the shore at low water-mark for that purpose ; and they have Rometimes a few cockles, muscles, and periwinkles ; whatever they catch is equally divided, and if their supply fails, they are in danger of starving ; but this, through the care of Providence, seldom happens. These people are tall, thin, and strong limbed, with large heads, bushy eye-brows, broad flat noses, thick lips, wide mouths, short black curled hair, and complex- ion as dark as the negroes of Africa ; and like them also have no beards. Their features are disagreeable, and it is remarkable that the two fore- teeth of the upper jaw arc wanting both in men and women ; but whether these were taken out by way of ornament, or whether it was a natural defect, Mr. Dampier does not pretend to be certain. There appeared to be no marriages or other particular connexions between the men and women, but they lived together in a promiscuous manner. Neither was it observed that they had any form of government, or practised any kind of religious ceremonies. Their only weapons were wooden swords, and wooden lances formed of a straight pole, made sharp and hardened at the end. Their language is entirely guttural, and none of the ship's compa- ny could even guess at the meaning of a single word they uttered. The flies here were so extremely troublesome they were apt to get into the eyes, nose, or mouth, for which reason the natives commonly kept fheir eyes half shut, and are obliged, when they look at anything, to hold their hands before their eyes, as a person does when he attempts to look at the sun. The first appearance of the ship's crew upon the coast terribly alarm- ed these poor people ; but their fears subsided on finding that they had no intention to hurt them. Some of the sailors gave them clothes, with a view to prevail upon them to assist in carrying water to their canoes, but they could by no means make themselves understood, and the natives having examined their clothes with seeming amazement, grinned at each other like monkeys, and laid them down on the ground. Dampier was threatened to be put on shore at this inhospitable place, for endeavouring to persuade some of the men to leave the ship, and go to some English fcictor)'' ; a design which he had long harboured, but now gave over all thoughts of, till some convenient opportunity should present itself. They left the coast of New Holland on the 12th of March, taking their course north ; on the 28t.h fell in with a small island covered v/ith wood, in 10 degrees 30 minutes south latitude, where they caught a number of boo- bies and land crabs, and took in fresh water. On the r2th of April, came to the Island of Triest, which is about a mile in circumference, and so very low, that the tide at flood flows quite over it ; but, nevertheless, it bears great plenty of cocoa nuts, with which they supplied themselves, and caught a quantity of fish and two young alligators. Leaving this island on the 18th, on the 29th saw a pioa at anchor, with four men in her, whom Captain Read very inhumanly detained prisoners, after having seized the cargo, which consisted of oil and cocoa nuts, and sunk the vessel, which was done to prevent Mr. Dampier and others, whom they euepected, from ijiaking their escape. On the 4th of May they had sight of the Nicobar islands, which lie forty leag'acs north-west of the Island of Sumatra. The chief commo- dities of these islands are ambergris and fruit, which the natives carry in proas on board such ships as come into the road. They came to an an WiLLAtM DAMPIHR. ^t chor in eight falhom '^ater on the 6th, at the west side of the Island of Nicobar, properly so called, and which gives name to the others. It lies in 7 degrees 30 minutt-s north latitude, is twelve leagues in length and three or four broad. It forms a beautiful landscape vvhen seen from the sea ; the soil fertile and well watered. Many sorts of trees flourish herf^, among which are cocoas and mallories, the latter being a fruit of a light green colour, with a tough, smooth rind ; it eats like an apple, and is about ihe size of the bread fruit. The natives are tall and well propor- tioned, with black eyes, handsome noses, long faces, lank black hair, and a deep copper-colour complexion. The women have no hair on their eye- brows, which it is imagined they pluck off to increase their beauty ; their only dress is a short petticoat, which reaches no lower than the knees, and the men have only a piece of cloth wrapped round the waist, and swathed two or three times about the thigh. Their houses consist only of one room, which is about eight feet high from the ground, being raised upon posts, and covered with palmetto leaves. Their language was alto- gether unintelligible, nor could any one discover any sort of religion among them, nor any kind of settled government, every one appearing on ail equal footing. They live in houses scattered about the island, sel- dom more than four or live being found together. They have neither rice, yams, nor potatoes, but plantains in a moderate quantity, and some cocks, hens, and small hogs. Their canoes, or proas, will contain twenty or thirty men ; they sit upon benches made of split bamboo, and row in the same manner that the watermen on the Thames do the wherries. At this place Captain Read ordered the men to heel the ship, in order to clean her ; he also took in a fresh supply of water. Here Mr. Dam- pier obtained leave of Captain Read to go on shore with his chest and bedding, being resolved to leave so wicked a crew ; and two other persons, named Ambrose and Hall, followed his example. Mr. Coppinge, their surgeon, was very desirous of bearing them company, but was detained by force. There were but two houses at the place where they landed, the master of one of which invited Mr. Dampier, by signs, to enter, inti- mating that he would be exposed to danger, from tlie wild beasts of the woods, during the darkness of the night. The four men that had been taken in the proa off Sumatra, and the pilot they brought from Pulo Condorc, were also left upon this island. The latter, who was a Porlu- fucse, proved a useful member of the community, as he understood the ndian and Malay tongues. Captiin Read got under sail about twelve o'clock at night, after which, Dampier and his friends laid down to sleep, which they were afraid to do before, lest the captain should have repented liaving given thorn liberty, and sent some of his people to force them on board again; and perhaps he would scarcely have permitted them to go on shore, had he imagined they could have got off the itiiand, as they afterward did. D;impier was visited by his friendly host early in the morning, together with four or five friends, who brought with them a large calabash filled with toddy. The Indian seemed surprised at first to see the number of his guests so mech increased, but he soon appeared well satisfied, and sold them a proa for an axe, v/hich one of the sailors, knowing it to bo a valu- able commodity among the Indians, had stolen and brought away from the ship. This skiff was about the size of a wherry, but they had no sooner got on board with all their effects, than she overset, and it cost three days' time to dry their papers, clothes, and other goods. At length, with the assistance of the Achin sailors, ihcy set the ve5&«.' to rights, fitted her out with a good mast and balance-logs, or dut-rig.* gers ; after which they steered for the east side of the island, being fol- lowed by the inhabitants in eight or ten canoes, whom Mr. Hall frightened away by tiring a gun over their heads, being apprehensiA'e that such a laige company would enhance the price of provisions. This inconside- rate action had like to have been productive of ill consequences, for their itiost useful hands, the Achin men, were sd frightened, that they leaped out of the canoe, and it was some time before they could be convinced that no injury was intended them. It also intimidated the inhabilantsj vVho, till then, had biiought them provisions, which they used to purchase for old rags and small pieces of cloth. After this, the inhabitants ap- peared in great numbers everywhere to oppose their landing ; however, in a day or two, Dampier and Hall leaped on shore in sight of a great many, with whom they soon made peace by shaking hands, upon which they Were supplied with provisions in the same abundance as before. Their provisions consisted of mallcJries, the pulp bf which, being separated from the rind and the core, and pres.$ed together, will keep six or seven days • some cocoas, and a few hens. These, with twelve large cocoa nut shells, and two or three bamboos, all which contained about eight gallons of Water, were their only sea store, with which they left the Island of Nicobar bn the 15th of May, 1688, and directed their course toward Achin. After being three days at sea, they observed the sky beginning to be cloudy ; also a halo, or bright circle, encompassing the sun, an infaUible prognostic of bad weather ; accordingly, they were attacked by so dread- ful a storm, that they expected every moment to be swallowed by the eea ; but the next day, after such a tempest of wind, thunderj lightning-, and rain as it was astonishing their vessel could outlive, they were agreea- bly surprised to h.oar one of their Achin sailors call out Pulo-way, (thai is, the Island of Way,) which is situated near the north-west end of Suma- tra. After some hours they discovered that what they had taken for the Island of Way was the golden mountain of Sumatra. The next day they anchored near the mouth of the River PassangC tonca, in the Island of Sumatra, thirly-six leagues from Achin : and as they were half dead with the fatigues of the voyage, they were carried to a small fishing town near the river, and entertained With great kind- ness by the inhabitants. The news of their arrival being carried to seve- ral of the Oramkis, Or noblemen, they came to see them ; and having heard their adventures, ordered a house to be provided, and sent them plenty of rice, fish, eggs, fowlsj plantains, and cocoas. They remained here till June, but recovered their health very slowly : Ihey then deter- mined to proceed to Achin, where there is an English factory ; for which purpose they embarked on board a proa, which in three days carried theni safe to that place. Here they were received with great friendship, and treated with great hospitality, by Mr. Dennis Driscolj an Iri.shman, in the service of the East India companyj who acted as interpreter between them and the chief-magistrate, who is called the Sabandar. At this place t)ampier commenced an acquaintance with Captain Bowrey, who wanted him to make a voyage tt) Persia as boatswain; but his ill state of health would not permit hini to accept the offer. Mr. Ambrose and Mr. Hall fentered on board BowrCy's ship ; and when Dampier had recovered his health, he engaged with one Captain Weldon, with whom he remained fifteen months, and made several trading voyages ; after which he entered as guimer to the English factory at Bencoolen, in which station he con- tinued five monthsj but disliking the governor of the fort, then quitted it. WILLIAM DAMPIER. 89 He remained upon this coast till the year 1691, and then embarked on board the Defence, Captain Heath, which lay in the road of Bencoolen. As the governor had given him permission to depart, but afterward re- voked it, he was obliged to make his escape by creeping through one of the port-holes of the fort, but carried oflf his most valuable papers, and in particular his journal. He got on board the 2d of January, 1691, and they sailed on the 25th, but had not been many days at sea before a fatal •distemper raged on board, by which they lost about thirty men. They reached the cape in the beginning of April, when the sick went on shore, and were supplied with mutton, beef, and other refreshments. Going on shore at the Cape of Good Hope, he took with him an extra- ordinary person, called the painted prince, whose name was Joelly, and who, together with his mother, had been purchased by one Mr. Moody, at Mindanao, who afterward went with Mr. Dampier to Bencoolen, and, at parting, gave him the half share of the painted prince and his mother, and left them in his custody. These people were born on the Island of Meangis, which abounds in gold, cloves, and nutmegs. The prince was curiously painted, after the manner of flower-work, on the breastj on his back, between his shoul- ders, and on the fore-part of his thighs. According to what our author could learn, this painting was performed by pricking the skin, and rub- bing on it the gum of a tree called damurer, which is used instead of pitch in some parts of the Indies. He told Dampier that the people of his country fed on fowl, fish, and potatoes, and wore golden ear-rings, and bracelets about their arms and legs. As to his being made captive, he said that, as one day he, his father, and mother were going in a canoe to one of the adjacent islands, they were taken by some fishermen of Mindanao, who sold them all to the interpreter of Raja Laut, with whom he and his mother lived as slaves five years ; and were then sold to Mr. Moody for sixty dollars. After a while Mr. Moody gave his other share of these people to Dampier, who tells us that the mother soon died, and it was not without difficulty he was able to preserve the life of the son ; whose history we may as well conclude here, by observing that Mr. Dampier, after his arrival in the Thames, being in want of money, sold a part of his property in him at first, and afterward the whole ; from which time the poor Indian was carried from place to place, and shown for money, till at length he died of the small-pox at Oxford. Having remained six weeks at the Cape of Good Hope, Captain Heath sailed on the 23d of May, and arrived at St. Helena on the 20th of June. They left this island on the 2d of July, in company with other ships bound for England, and on the 16th of September, 1691, anchored in the Downs?, where they found several English and Dutch ships preparing to cruise against the French, with whom they were then at war : and our adventurers thought themselves very happy they did not fall into the hands of their enemies. The publication of the above voyage round the world having recom- mended Dampier to the notice of persons of the first eminence, he was afterward employed by government in discoveries both in the eastern and southern seas. His first expedition was to the coast of New Holland, which could have no other object but discovery in view. He sailed from the Downs on January 11, 1698, in his majesty's ship the Roebuck, car- rying only twelve guns and fifty men, and having twenty months' provi- sion on board. On the 1st of August they fell in with the western coast of New Holland, ia latitude 26 degrees south, where, however, they 8* 90 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. found nothing very different from what Dampier had before described The only land animals they sav/ wjcre a small sort of racoons, different from those of the West Indies chiefly in their legs, which are short be- fore, and on which they run jumping ; and a sort of guanoes, or lizards, peculiar to the country, which appear to hdve two heads, but in reality have but one, and no tail ; and what is no less remarkable, their font legs appear to be all fore-legs, so formed that the creature may walk either way. To these may now be added the kangaroo, a quadruped of a particular shape, as large as a sheep, and a creature of the opossum kind, with dogs and wolves ; of the latter sort some were seen by Dam- pier's men, but so lean that they were nothing but skin and bone. In latitude 23 degrees south, they saw dolphins and small whales, and abun- dance of scuttle shells, swimming in the sea. They were much distress- ed for water here. Being ashore employed in digging a well, Dampier was assaulted by ten or twelve of the natives, with whom he had a skir- mish, and was forced to shoot one dead, to disengage a young man who was surrounded by three of them, and wounded in the cheek with a lance. On a gun being (ired over the heads of the assailants, though it star- tled them at tirst, they soon recovered their surprise, and continued their hostilities ; but, as soon as they saw a man fall, were terribly frightened, and fled witii precipitation. Dampier very humanely adds, that he tres- passed on the natives no farther, being very sorry for what had happened.' Our voyager not being able either to find fresh water or a harbour to careen his ship, set sail from this miserable country about the beginning of September, 1699 ; and, directing his course to the Island of Timor, arrived there September 15, and received a supply of water and provi- sions from the chief of the Dutch factory there. In his return, he touched again at Timor, and from thence sailed to Batavia ; where, having careened his ship and supplied himself with necessaries of every kind, on the 17ih of October, 1700, he set sail foi the Cape of Good Hope ; from thence continuing his voyage to St. He- lena, he arrived at that island January 31, 1701 ; but, in his course home, his ship sprung a leak at sea, and, after endeavouring in vain to stop it, he was obliged to run her aground on the Island of Ascension ; where, having landed his men, and taken from on board all necessary provisions, they in a short time discovered a fine spring of water, and_ lived tolerably, till ihey were at last relieved by some English men-of- war, v.'ho were convoying home the Canterbury Indiaman, and brought them all safe to England. In 1703, notwiihstanding the bad success of the voyage just mentioned, Dampier was again employed in an expedition to the South Sea, in con- junction with Captain Pulling, who had each a ship of twenty-six guns and 120 men under his command. That commanded by Captain Dam- pier was called the St. George ; and that by Captain Pulling, the Fame. They were victualled for nine months, and had commissions from his Royal Highness Prince George of Denmark, then lord-high-admiral, to proceed in a warlike manner against the French and Spaniards ; and both were upon the same terms of no prizes no pay. But while in the Downs, some difference having arisen between the two captains, Pulling get sail alone, and left Dampier to take his own course ; who, stopping some time in Ireland, was joined by the Cinque Ports galley of ninety tons, sixteen guns, and sixty-three men, Captain Charles Pickering com- mander. In this expedition, Dampier had three grand objects in view : the first was, to sail to Buenos x\yre3 in order to surprise the Spanish WILLIAM DAMPIER 91 galleons that usually take in their lading at that port ; the second de- pended on missing the first, in which case they were to pass through the straits of Mageljan to cruise upon the coasts of Peru, for the Baldivia ship,s that carry gold to Lima ; and the third, if both the former mis- carried, was to proceed to the coast of Mexico, to intercept the Manilla ship that annually arrives at Acapulco, and is said to be worth eight or nine miliions of pieces of eight, equal to a million and a half of English money. Full of these projects, they set sail from Kinsale, in Ireland, on the 1 Uh of September, 1703, and on the 25th arrived off Madeira, where they learned that the galleons were sailed from Buenos Ayres, and then lay at Teneriff. The first project being thus defeated, they proceeded to put the second in execution with all possible despatch. On the 24th of JVovember they anchored on the Island of Le Grand, on the coast of Brazil, where they buried Captain Pickeruig, and chose Lieutenant Straddling in his room. From this island they sailed on the 8th of Decem- ber ; and doubling Cape Horn on the 20ih of January, changed their direction, sailed to the northward, and on the 10th of February came to an anchor in the great Bay of Juan Fernandez, where they met their con- sort. Captain Stradling, with whom they had parted in passing Cape Horn in a violent storm, which happened on the 26th of January. At Juan Fernandez they continued refitting their ships till the 29th, when seeing a sail, they slipped their cables and put to sea. She proved to be a French ship of 400 tons, thirty guns, and full of men. The St. George fought her about seven hours, when a gale springing up she sheared otf. Ou this occasion the Cinque Ports behaved but indifie- rcully, firing only a few guns, and lying by. Next day, in returning to Juan Fernandez, they fell in with two French men-of-war, of thirty-six guns each 5 frotn whom they narrowly escaped, leaving their cables, an- chors, and five or six of their men beiouging to the Cinque Ports on tiiat island, with a new suit of sails, and several other necessaries which they could ill spare. They now proceeded upon their second enterprise ; but were equally unfortunate in that as in the former. The BaldJvian ships were sailed, and the gold secured. They then meditated a sur- prise against the town of Santa Maria, in the Gulf of Panama, where the Spaniards, getting intelligence of their designs, laid ambuscades, and after killing and wounding several, put the rest to flight. In this manner, disappointment succeeding disappoiulment, dififerences began to arise between the commanders, and they concluded to part company. But about this time a large ship, fortunately for them, coming to an anchor in the night close by, they instantly boarded and made prize of her. She was deeply laden with flour, sugar, brandy, wine, about thirty tons of malraalade of quinces, a considerable quantity of salt, with some tons of linen and woollen cloth. This proved a sea- sonable supply ; and provisions, that were before so scarce that only five green plantains were the daily allowance for six men, were now so abun- dant on board the prize, that they might have laid in a slock for several years ; yet, in less than six months, we find them starving. After searching the prize and dividing the spoil, the captains parted ; and in two or three days Dampier fell in with a Spanish man-of-war, fitted out on purpose to take him. The two ships had a smart engagement, and parted in the night by consent. Soon after this engagenient, Dampier and Clippington, his first lieu tenant, having some dUTerence, Clippington seized upon the ship's tender, 92 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. in which were the stores and ammunition, and with twenty-one of the best men weighed anchor and set sail. When he had cleared the islands, he sent to invite all those who were willing to sail with him to come on board ; but Dampier's last project being now on the point of being carried into execution, the men who remained with him resolved to abide the issue. The master of this bark, Christian Martin by name, was a Spa- niard by birth, but taken prisoner while a boy, and bred up in England. This man they kept prisoner on board, and now proceeded to intercept the Manilla ship. On the 6th of December, in the morning, they saw a sail, and soon came up with her. She proved their last hope, the great Manilla ship, from the East Indies. They instantly bore down upon her, and before she could bring her guns to bear, gave her several broadsides ; and, taking her unprepared, put the company on board in the utmost disorder. Cap- tain Martin, though a Spaniard, advised to lay her aboard immediately, before the Spaniards had recovered their surprise ; but that advice was disregarded till it was too late ; for, while two parties were quarrelling on board the St. George, the one for laying the enemy on board, the other not, the Spaniards got out a tier of twenty-four pounders, every one of which that took place was ready to send the St. George to the bottom. The assailants were, therefore, soon beaten off with disgrace, after having received a shot between wind and water in the powder-room, by which two feet of planking was driven in on each side the stern. And now, being disappointed of this their last expectation, all the men grew discontented, and impatient to return home. However, they were prevailed upon to cruise a few weeks longer on the coast of Mexico ; and with that view passed the ports of Acapulco, Port Angels, Port Guatulco, and several others ; but without meeting any prize worth wait- ing for. Ill success is generally succeeded by discontent ; the men v.'ho were before impatient of fatigue without reward, grew now ungovernable. A party, therefore, formed the design of returning home by way of the East Indies ; and these were encouraged by Mr. Funnel, the chief-mate, who, having the command of the small Spanish prize already mentioned, de- termined to hazard everything to regain his native country, rather than continue under the direction of a man with whom they could not agree, lie therefore embraced the first opportunity to reach the Gulf of Ama- palla, to water his bark, and prepare for his voyage home. It should seem that this voyage of Darapier, though countenanced with a government commission, was, notwithstanding, fitted out by private adventurers ; for, on this occasion, the owners' agent is said to have divided the provisions and stores between those who chose to remain with Dampier, and those who determined to follow the fortune of Mr. Funnel. Their whole number was already reduced to sirxty effective men, thirty-three of whom chose to accompany Funnel, and twenty-seven only remained with Dampier, but upon what terms they engaged, or what course they pursued afterward, we are not told ; for Dampier, though he returned home, never published any account of this voyage. What we have related concerning it, in order to complete his adventures as far as our materials extend, we have extracted from the account written by Funnel ; who, having left Dampier in the Gulf of Amapalla on the 1st of February, 1705, takes no farther notice of his captain; but goes on with the story of his own voyage, which was indeed unfortunate enough ; for his ship was siezed by the Dutch at Ambovna. the goods on board COWLEY. 9, confiscated, and most of the men cruelly used, being confined and hal. starved by the Dutch, who were jealous lest they should make discove- ries prejudicial to their commerce. Funnel himself, however, soon got released ; and, having made strong representations against the authors of his sufferings at Amboyna, at length obtained some show of redress ; with which, though not a compensation for his losses, he was forced to be contented. On the 2d of November he, with two of his company, got passage to Europe in the Dutch East India fleet; and, on the 15th of July following, arrived safe in the Texel, from whence, after visiting the principal towns in Holland, he came to England, and published the ac- count just mentioned, in which he followed the example of Dampier, by giving a description of the natural productions of the islands at which he touched, their inhabitants, arts, and commerce. Mr. COWLEY.— 1683-86. Of Cowley we can find no other account than what i.s contained in the voyage written by himself ; therefore, we shall, in his own words, preserve such parts of that voyage as have not already been related iv the voyage of Dampier ; premising only, that in his first setting out among the bucaniers was in the same prize in which Dampier set sail from Virginia, under the command of Captain Cook ; that he continued to serve that commander, as master, during his life ; and that, after sailing some time in consort with Captain Eaton in the South Seas, he chose rather to serve that gentleman than to continue with his own captain's successor. One remark more, and then to proceed. We find him, in every collection of voyages in which he is introduced, distinguished by the appellation of Captain Cowley, though the highest employment to which he ever seems to have arrived was master on board the bucaniers. We, in our ship, says Cowley, toward the middle of August, set sail from the Gulf of Miguel, in the Bay of Amapalla, steering for Cape St. Francisco, where we chased a ship that escaped from us ; and then bore up to latitude 7 degrees south, where, finding the country alarmed, we stood for Payta, in latitude 4 degrees south, where we took two ships lying at anchor ; which the Spanish refusing to ransom, we, by way of farewell, set them on fire. From hence we sailed for Gorgona, at which island we watered our ship for the East Indies. This island lies in latitude 3 degrees 15 minutes north, and in longi- tude 305 degrees east, and as soon as we had supplied ourselves with wood and water, took our departure, steering west-north-west, till we came as low almost as the rocks of St. Bartholomew, in ionwitude 240 degrees, and then sailed into latitude 15 degrees norlh, till judging we were passed those rocks, returned into 13 degrees north, which latitude we held till we made the Island of Guam, in latitude 13 degrees north, and in longitude 150 degrees east, according to our reckoning; at which island we had a very sickly ship, no man being free from the scurvy, and most of us in a weak condition. It was on the 14th of March, about seven in the morning, that we saw land. At twelve o'clock we were in latitude 13 degrees 2 minutes north, by observation, having made out on our sailing, by judgment, 7346 miles, that is to say, departed so many miles from Gorgona by loss made out in longitude, which is about 2549 leagues. The next day we sailed about the south-west part of the island, and came to an anchor in a fair bay, from whence we sent a boat on shore, 94 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. with a flag of truce ; but, on landing, our people found that the natives had burnt their houses, and had fled ; however, our men felled some cocoa nut trees, and brought a hundred or two on board to refresh the crew. In the meantime a party of Indians rushed from behind the bushes, and in a hostile manner threatened to attack us ; but we made signs of friendship, and one of the Indians returned to the wood, and having peeled a stick so as to make it appear white, he came forward, when one of his companions, perceiving that he had no cap to compliment our people, called him back, and presented him with one for that purpose. From the 15th till the 17th we continued a free trade with the Indians ; but on that day our men going over to a small island on the west side of Guam, the Indians fell upon them with stones and lances, which occa- sioned a fray, in which some of the Indians were killed upon the spot. Two days after, the governor, who happened to be a Spaniard, came to a point of land near the ship, and sent a letter written in Spanish, French, and Dutch, demanding, in the name of the king, his master, who we were, whither we were bound, and from whence we came 1 Ouj answer was written in French, that we were employed by some gentlemen in France upon the discovery of some unknown parts of the world. On the return of the messenger, the governor sent a letter of invitation to the captain to come on shore, with which he instantly complied, and was received under a triple discharge of cannon from the fort, which was answered by the same number of guns from the ship. They soon came to a good understanding. Our captain made an apology for killing some of the Indians in his own defence ; and the governor gave for answer, j,hat, if he had killed them all, he should have esteemed the favour the greater. We were afterward told that the Indians on the small island were in rebellion. On Wednesday, about twelve o'clock, a Spanish captain came onboard, and continued with us till twelve the next day. He brought, as a present from the governor, ten hogs, a large quantity of potatoes, plantains, oranges, papas, and red pepper ; in return for which, our commander sent the governor a diamond ring, and presented the officer with a rich sword. While mutual civilities were passing between the governor and the captain, our people went out every day, chasing the Indians, whom they had full license to kill and destroy wherever they met with them ; but they, finding us not to be Spaniards, became very tractable, and offered to assist in supplying us with fish and fruit, which they exchanged for old nails and old iron. After having tarried here some time, and a free intercourse had been established between the Indians on shore and our people on board the ship, the Indians made signs for as many of our men as chose it, to come and see them haul the seine. Our men, not suspecting apy design, manned the boat, and went to look at them ; but, while the men were amusing themselves with the sport, the Indians had very artfully brought their seine round the boat, with a design to draw it on shore, and thereby entangle both boat and crew ; but the sailors, dis- covering the plot, gave the Indians no time to carry it into execution ; for, being provided with fire-arms, which they never went ashore without, they fired among the thickest of the crowd, killed a great many, and drove the rest away. These Indians are large in stature, some being six feet and a half high ; they go stark naked ; never bury their dead, but let them lie in the sun to rot. They have no arms but slings and lances ; the sharp ends of the latter are pointed with dead men's bones, which, being cut like scoops, and jagged at the edges like unto saws, if a man COWLEY. 95 happens to be wounded by them, and is not cured in nine days, he cer- tai»ly dies. Our people took four of these treacherous savages prisoners, bound them, and brought them on bo:ird ; but they had not been long among us, before three of them leaped into the sea, and, with their hands tied beiiind them, swam away like fishes. The Spanish governor's kind- ness increased in proportion to the mischief done to the Indians. He sent us, the succeeding day, by one of his captains, thirty hogs, some melons, pumpions, potatoes, fruits, and rice, and received in return si.^ small patararoes. Having now rigged anew our ship, and supplied our- selves with wood and water, we began to prepare for our departure. On the 1st of April weighed anchor, and next day came abreast of the fort, which we saluted with three guns, and were complimented with the same number ; and, on the 3d, the governor sent his last present to our captain. On the 4th set sail, and steered W. by S. till we arrived at the height of St. Bartholomew, then shaped our course W. N. W. till in the latitude of 20 degrees 30 minutes north, when we fell in with a cluster of islands, lying to the north of Luconia, distant from Guam 560 leagues. They seemed to be uninhabited ; but the men who went on shore in the boat, found abundance of nutmegs on one of the clusters, and saw some goats. From these islands we steered S. W. for the island of Luconia, and on the 25th of April, Cape Bajadore bore from us east ; after which we came up with Cape Mindato, where the S. W. monsoon overtaking us, we were obliged to bear away for Canton, in Ciiina, where we lay and refitted our ship, and where we might have laden ourselves with plunder from thirteen Tartar ships, which came thither full of the richest goods of China ; but our men, being under no government, refused to attack them ; saying, they came fjr gold and silver, not to be made pedlers to carry packs. From Canton we sailed for Manilla, to wait for the Tarler ship that annually goes thither, and which we were informed was laden one-half with silver ; but, though we were fortunate enough to come in sight of her, she out-sailed us, and escaped. We then bore away for an island that lies to the .north of Luconia, intending there to stay till the wind came fair to carry us to Bantam, not then knowing that Bantam had been taken from the English by the Dutch. At this island we stored ourselves with fruit, goats, and guanoes ; which last are here good meat : here was found an Indian, who directed us to an island containing plenty of great cattle ; but the wind soon coming fair, we made sail to the south- ward, steering our course S. S. W. till in latitude 10 degrees N., where we were so entangled among the islands of Paragn, that none ever ex- pected to escape with life. After three days, however, we very provi- dentially got clear, and stood in for an island at the north end of Borneo, where we hauled our ship on sliore, and erected a tent, planting a bat- tery of ten guns for defence, in case of an attack from the natives. Here, unloading the ship, and having provided sufHcIently for our security, we ranged the country for natives to trade with us ; but they, having never seen any white men b.^fore, proved very shy ; and when^ by chance, our men fell in with one of their canoes, filled vvith women, among whom was the queen of the country and her retinue ; on the approach of our ship's boat, they all leaped over-board ; but, after taking them up, and treating them kindly, they laid aside their fears, and grew familiar ; and, upon our offering them civility, instead of avoiding, they soon became fond of us. They brought fish in great plenty, with oranges, lemons, mangoes. 96 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. plantains, and pine apples ; and, besides these, we exchanged some trifles for bezoar, musk, and civet, with which the island is well stored. The year was now drawing to a close, when we set sail from this little island, steering a course for Timor, where, finding the ship's compan)' begin to grow mutinous, and not under command of the captain, myself, Mr. Hill, and eighteen more, joined our forces together, and purchased a large boat, in which we sailed to the Island of Java, distant from Timor 300 leagues. The wind being contrary for Batavia, we bore away for Cheribon, a factory belonging to the Dutch, lying eastward of Batavia, where we were kindly received by the governor. There we heard that King Charles of England was dead, and that his brother James was proclaimed king ; we heard also that Bantam had been taken from the English, and that the Dutch had erected a new factory on that island. After refreshing at Cheribon, we agreed to divide our twenty men into three parties ; two of which chose to sail for the Bay of Bengal, and the third to stay with me ; but knowing that Batavia was the Hollanders' magazine for India, we proposed first to sail thither, and there to provide each for himself as well as he could. Having arrived, we were courte- ously received by the general ; and T, with Mr. Hill and another friend, all my party, were promised our passage to Europe in their East India fleet. About this time the general was sending four or five ships-of-war, with soldiers, to procure satisfaction from the king of the island for an outrage that had been committed on a party of Hollanders, who, to the number of eighty, had been slaughtered by the Javanese. These ships, it seems, were originally designed against Sillebar, an English settlement on the west coast of Sumatra : but this act of hostility happening to in- tervene, it had diverted their purpose, and saved the factory for this time. There were now in Batavia twenty of us, who, on hearing this news, would willingly have repaired to Sillebar ; but the Dutch would by no means permit it, though we had bought a sloop for that purpose. This project failing, Mr. Hill, another friend, and I, embarked on board the Solida Indiamen, bound to Holland ; and when leaving the road, saw our ship, Captain John Eaton, coming in ; however, we held our course ; but finding the wind unfavourable, turned down to Bantam to take in provisions, and thence steered to Prince's Island, where we lay for a fair wind three weeks. About the end of March, set sail again with the wind at N. W., and shaped our course to the Cape of Good Hope. On the 11th of May, after a pleasant passage, made the land called Point Primicra, bearing N. W. distant 12 leagues. We had the wind at N. E., being distant from the cape 560 miles, the land tending away S. W. by W. The fish which came about the ship near the Island of Mona, the 30th of March, left us now, when we judged ourselves in latitude 32 degrees 47 minutes south. From the 15th of May to the 29th, we had sailed only 96 miles ; but observing next day, found by the latitude that we had a very strong current, that had driven the ship to the southward 34 miles farther than by the reckoning ; for we thought we had been in the latitude of 33 degrees 41 minutes south, whereas we found our- selves in latitude 34 degrees 15 minutes south, the course having been S. W. 40 miles. I argued the reason with the chief-mate of the ship, and he told me it once happened in this place that they lay-to with three main-sails, and the wind at W. S. W., three days ; and when they took their observation, found their ship driven to windward 200 English miles ; and likewise in latitude 36 degrees 37 minutes, it is said, often find the ame curious occurence. COWLEY. 97 % From henfce to the 27th nothing remarkable happened ; but on that Jay the wind blew a furious storm from W. S. W. We lay-to with main- sails, and found we were in latitude 30 degrees 3 minutes S., coming in with the land ; and now the current went to the eastward, so that we began to fear losing our passage by the cape. The captain, who had long been sick, was now judged to be past recovery, and in the middle of the night died : this occasioned a great deal of confusion, and to add to our diffi- culties, water began to fail, and we were reduced to a pint a day per man. On the 1st of Juno again came in sight of land. It appeared like a round hill, flat at top, and bore from us N. N. E., with a smaller hill to the eastward. Next day we were before the harbour o{ the cape, with the wind at north, and fine fair weather. On the third, at night, came to an anchor in the bay before the castle, in nine fathoms water. This day four of the natives came down to the city, dancing naked, and offering their wives to the Hollanders for little bits of tobacco. They were the filthiest men I ever saw. Next day my two friends and I walked about the town, in which are about 100 houses, built very low, to save them from the boisterous gales of wind that blow here in the months of Decem- ber, January, and February : but the Dutch have here a strong castle, with eighty guns well mounted, and a spacious garden, with pleasant walks, and planted with almost every kind of fruit, flowers, and herbs. This is the greatest rarity that we saw at the cape. We walked, more- over, without the town to the village inhabited by Hottentots, so called by the Hollanders, who are the natives of the country. These people are said to be born white, but make themselves black by anointing their bodies, and exposing their infants to the sun and smoke. Their houses, or huts, are built in a circular form, with the fire-place in the middle, round which they all lie in common, covered only with the skins of some beasts, and without any other bed than the ashes of the wood on which they dress their meat. They eat anything that is foul, and will gather from the dvmghills the offal that is thrown out by the Dutch to feed their dogs. Their men are not at all jealous of foreigners ; but will beat their wives unmercifully for adultery with their neighbours. When the women marry, they cut off a joint of the middle finger ; and if the husband dies, and the widow marries again, she cuts off another joint ; and so many men as they marry, so many joints of their fingers they lose. They are supposed to worship the moon, because at the full and change they as- semble in great numbers, dancing and rejoicing when she shines, but howling and lamenting when they are deprived of her light. It happened, while we were at the cape, that one of the Hottentots drank himself dead at the fort, of which his countrymen, getting intelli- gence, assembled about him, and with oil and milk endeavoured to reco- ver the defunct ; but finding all their efforts vain, and that they could perceive no spark of life remaining, began to make preparations for his funeral, which was performed in the following manner. They first brought knives, and shaved him from head to foot ; then, digging a hole in the ground, carefully placed him in a sitting posture, with his body and head erect, and his legs and thighs stretched out horizontally, and pressed down straight ; this being performed, they propped him up in this attitude with stones ; and then came a company of their women to howl over the body, who accompanied their lamentations with a hideous shrieking, as if death appeared before them in the shape of a monster, and was ready to devoui them. After their time of mourning was over, they filled up the hole with curth, and covered it over with the green turf. We were now tliree 08 VOYAGES ROtTND THE WORLD. ships in company, to sail for Europe, the Sohda and Critsman, which came together from Batavia, and the Emeland, which came from Bengal. On Tuesday, ihe iGtii, pursued our course to the N.W. and N. W. by W. till Tuesday, the 29th, without any material incident intervening. On the 12th of July, came off the Island of Ascension, and next day took a new departure from thence. On the 20tb, found we were in lati- tude 15 degrees north. Wednesday the 22d, made the longitude from the cape 1 1 degrees 56 minutes, judging ourselves to be in longitude 355 degrees 56 minutes. And now it was that I cut the same line which I did when I departed from Virginia in the year 1683, having encompassed the globe ; and cannot but note, that I have been farther southward than any man that I ever heard or read of before me, in this voyage ; having, as I have already said, reached as far as latitude 60 degrees 30 minutes south ; and so it happened, that, being bound to go north about Scotland to make Holland, I passed about 60 degrees north, though I mention this as no extraordinary thing. "We met with no particular occurrence till the 2d of August, when our captain, after three days' illness, died of a pain m his bowels. His chief steersman was made commander in his room ; but, though his cause was warmly espoused by the men on a former oc- casion, yet it was not till after much opposition that they acquiesced in his present advancement. On Sunday, the 19th, when the weather began to clear up, I saw land, as did also two men more. I supposed it to be the Island of Shetland ; but our captain would not believe it ; however, about six in the evening, the Critsman's people saw land also. We came up with the Isle of Far- ley by the 22d, steered on, and on the 25th had the wind all round the compass. Next day, with the wind at E. S. E., we found ourselves in latitude 53 degrees 35 minutes north, and I judged us to be on the West- bank. On Tuesday, the 28th, came before the Maes, with the wind at E. N. E. When it was day we saw the Brill church, and came to an an- chor in ten ftithoms water. Next day we entered the harbour at Helvoet- sluys, after having been seven months in our passage from Batavia. CAPTAIN WOODES ROGERS.— 1708-11. There are few voyages which have been undertaken with equal pru* dence, or for which such careful and ample preparations have been made» as for the followmg, which was in a great measure owing to the spirit of the gentlemen of Bristol, at whose expense, and for whose emolument, the undertaking was set on foot. The first care of the gentlemen con- corned was, to make a proper choice of officers, in which they were ex- tremely fortunate. Captain Woodes Rogers, who commanded in chief, was a bold, active, indefatigable officer; and was chosen by the proprie- tors for the peculiar art he had. of maintaining his authority over the sailors, and his readiness in finding out expedients in the most difficult conjunctures. Captain Stephen Courtney was a man of birth, fortune, and many amiable qualities, and had contributed largely to the expense of the voyage. Mr. Thomas Dover, third in command, was also a pro- prietor ; he was by profession a physician, and the same who afterward made a considerable noise in the world, by recommending the use of crude mercury ; he was a man of a rough temper, and not easily pleased ; but as he had not the chief command, this was of the less consequence. 'Mr. Ed- ward Cooke, who had been twice taken by the French, was second captain WOODES ROGERS. 99 to Mr. Courtney, and the chief pilot was Captain William Dampier, whose name was sufficiently terrible to the Spaniards in the South Seas. They sailed from King-road, Bristol, on the 1st of August, 1708, their force consisting of the Duke, a ship of 300 tons burthen, thirty guns, and 170 men, commanded by Captain Woodes Rogers ; and the Duchess, of 270 tons, twenty-six guns, and 151 men, under the command of Cap- tain Stephen Courtney ; both ships having legal commissions from his royal highness. Prince George of Denmark, lord-high-admiral of England, to cruise on the coasts of Peru and Mexico, in the South Seas, against her majesty's enemies, the French and Spaniards ; and to act jointly, as . belonging to the same owners, the merchants of Bristol. On the 5th of August, saw the Irish shore, and came to an anchor m sight of Kinsale, where a pilot came on board the Duke, and undertook to steer her into the cove of Cork. Instead of which, on the morning of the 6th, while it was yet dark, and the weather foggy, he would have carried her into a bay to the westward of Cork, had not Captain Rogers, who happened to be well acquainted with the coast, prevented him, and brought her into the cove himself, where she came to an anchor the same day. While in this harbour, they took in a good quantity of provi- sions, and enlisted a number of seamen, in the room of about forty fellows, some of whom ran away, and others were discharged as unfit for the ser- vice. The compliment was now 333, among whom above a third of the number were foreigners of various nations ; there was one negro and ten boys ; and of the English and Irish, a great many were tinkers, tai- lors, haymakers, pedlers, and fiddlers. With this mixed crew they sailed from Cork on the 1st of September, in company with the Hastings man- of-war, which sailed with them till the 6lh, when Captain Paul, who commanded her, supplied them with several necessaries which they had omitted to bring with them, nor would he accept of any return ; where- upon they gave him a letter to Alderman Batchelor and the rest of the proprietors at Bristol. About si.K o'clock, on the morning of thfe 10th, discovered a sail, to which they immediately gave chase, and came up with her about three in the afternoon, when she bore down, showing Swedish colours. They fired at her twice, after which she brought-to ; they suspected, from some expressions uttered by two or three of her hands, whom ihey found drunk, that she had contraband goods on board ; but finding, after a strict exa- mination of the master and several of his men, that it would be difficult to prove her a prize, and being unwilling to lose time by carrying her into port, thoy lot her depart without farther detention. The master appeared to be very thankful tluit he was detained so short a time, and at his de- parture, presented Captain Rogers with some dried beef and two hams ; in return for which he received a dozen bottles of redstreak cider. She was a ship belonging to Stadt. of 270 tons burthen, and twenty-two guns, and had sailed round Scotland and Ireland. On her leaving the Duke and Duchess, she saluted them with four gUns. During the time the sh'p was in custody, a de.^ign had been privately fonned on board the Duke, by four inferior officers, to make a prize of her ; and when they found she was given up, they began to mutiny ; but Gyles Cash, the boatswain, being displaced and, with ten others, put in irons, and a severe whipping given to some of the principal leaders of the disturbance, all was quiet again, and things began once more to m.ove in their proper channel. A like inclination had appeared among the hands on board the Duchess, but when those on board the other ship were 100 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. brought to obedience, it subsided. After this, however, they had some trouble with these mutineers. On the 14th of September, some of the ship's company, headed by a bold daring fellow, came up to Captain Ro- gers at the steerage-door, and demanded the discarded boatswain out. of irons. The captain gave them good words, and having taken the ring- leader aside, as if to speak privately with him on the quarter-deck, had him suddenly seized by the help of the ofticers, and lashed by one of his own followers. The next day he sent the boatswain, in irons, on board the Crown tzalloy, of Biddeford, which had kept them company since the 6ih instant, auJ left them on the 15th. On the I6lh the captain dis- charged the prisoners out of irons, on their acknowledging their sorrow for what was past, a>id promising better behaviour for the time to come. In the afternoon of the 17th, gained sight of the peak of Teneritf, and the next day took a Spanish bark of twenty-five tons, bound from Orata- via to Faerteventura, with forty-five passengers, men and women, on board, among whom was a priest. On the 19th, bore away for Oratavia road, and sent the aiaster of the Spanish vessel on shore with the priest, to agree about her ransom, and to get wine, provisions, and other neces- saries for both ships. They were accompanied by Mr. Carlton Van- burgh, who went on this errand contrary to the opinion and inclination of Captain Rogers. Soon afterward a boat came from the town with a letter directed to the Captains Rogers and Courtney, expostulating with them for making prize of the bark, and alleging that iVlr. Vanburgh should be detained till she was restored, to keep which wa.s not only against a private contract entered into between Spain and England, relative to the Canaries, but would be of the utmost detriment, as well to the trading subjects of both crowns, as to several English merchants residing ou these islands ; of whom a tenfold satisl'action would be exacted. This letter was signed by John Poulden, vice-consul, and three merchants, Bernard Walsh, John Crosse, and George Fitzgerald. The captains agreed on answermg this letter, to this effect ; that in Keeping the bark they acted up to their instructions ; that they knew no- thing of any private articles in favour of the ships of these islands ; that in case Mr. Vanburgh was not restored, they would carry away all the prisoners they had ; and if they apprehended any detriment to the fac- tory, they might ransom the bark, and seek their redress in England, Tliey desired despatch, there being no time to lose ; and said, that upon sending back Mr. Vanburgh, they would release their prisoners. At length, after other letters had passed between them, Mr. Crosse, one of the English merchants who had signed the above-mentioned letters, came off in a boat on the 22d, bringing v/ith him Mr. Vanburgh, to- gether with five butts of wine, some hogs, grapes, and other things. Upon which the captains ordered the goods to be taken out of the prize, which they sold to Mr. Crosse for 450 dollars, and put the prisoners on board ; but at the request of Mr. Vanburgh, v/hatever could be recovered of the effects belonging to any of them, were returned, particularly their crosses, relics and books; and Captain Rogers made a present of a cheese to the priest. On the 25th of September passed the tropic, when about sixty of the crew, who had never been this course before, were ducked three times, by hoisting them half way up the main-yard with a rope to which they were made fast, and sousing them into the water : this dipping v^ras of great service to some of them, as it cleansed them from the dirt and filth which they had contracted in the voyage. Those who chose to pay WOODES ROGERS. 101 half a crown, to be spent in merry-making among the ship's crew on their return to England, were excused from this ceremony. On the 30th of September discovered St. Lucia, one of the Cape de Verd islands, and about eleven o'clock anchored in the harbour of St. Vincent, where, as they knew the island to be uninhabited, and saw several men on shore, Captain Cook went in the pinnace to learn who they were, and found them to be Portuguese from the Island of St. Antonio, come to catch turtle. On the 3d, it was determined to send Joseph Alexander, their linguist, with a respectful letter to the governor of these islands, desiring leave to trade for refreshments, as being subjects of Great Britain and allies of the crown of Portugal. During their stay the linguist deserted. The deputy-governor, who was a negro, came on board the Duke, and brought with him tobacco, brandy, hogs, fowls, oranges, limes, musk- melons, and watermelons ; for which he was paid in prize goods of small value. While they lay here to clean their ships, and take in wood and water, a committee was held on board the Duchess, in which certain regulations were made relative to prizes and plunder, which were agrend to by all parties. Care was also taken to prevent too common a prac- tice among the sailors, of selling their clothes to the negroes and natives of these islands for brandy and other trifles. There are ten islands, only- seven of which are mhabited : these are St. Jago, St. Nicholas, Bona- vista, St. Antonio, Brava, Mayo, and Fuego, which last is so called from its volcano ; St. Nicholas and St. Jago are the most populous, the lat- ter of which is a bishop's see, and bears the same name with the island. Here is also a considerable town, said to contain upward of 500 houses, the principal commodities of which are tobacco, sugar, indigo, and goat skins, from which the fine morocco leather is made. Their goats, which are fat and well tasted, yean once in four months, and have three or four kids at a time. The soil in this neighbourhood is but indifferent, but the valleys produce corn and grapes. The ships set sail on the 8th of October, in the evening, after having put th'3 deputy-governor on shore. On the 22d, Mr. Page, second mate of the Duchess, being ordered to a birth on board the Duke, from whence Mr. Ballet was to remove on board the Duchess, he (Page) refused to change his ship, and Captain Cook insisting that he should, he struck him ; but he was at length brought on board the Duke, and Captain Ro- gers condemned him to irons. Before the sentence was put h^ execution, he desired to go to the head, when he jumped overboard, and endeavour- ed to swim back to the Duchess, where, as the captains were both ab- sent, he might have excited the men to mutiny ; but»he boat, which was alongside, followed and brought him back, when he was heartily lashed, and then confined in irons till the 29th, when he was set at liberty, on promise of better behaviour. On the 14th they came within sight of the land of Brazil, and on the 18th came to an anchor before the Island of Grande, in eleven fathoms v^ra- ter. While they lay here, new quarrels arose, and things had certainly come to an extremity on board the Duchess, if Captain Courtney had not put eight of the ringleaders into irons, which frightened the rest, and, in all probability, prevented an attempt to run away with the ship. On the 20th, Mr. Dampicr and a lieutenant commanded two boats, which were sent to the watering-place, to see that it was clear of enemies; when they found a Portuguese boat, the people of which complained that they had lately been robbed by the French. Oa this day four men, 9» 102 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. who had been observed to be very forward in mutinies, were put into irons ; and in the evening Captain Cook and Lieutenant Pope went to Angre de Reys, a village about three leagues distant, called by the Portuguese, Nostra Senora de la Conceptione, with a present of butter and cheese to the governor, and a request of his friendship. As thev approached the shore, the inhabitants, mistaking them for French, fired several times, but did no damage, and entreated their pardon as soon as they discovered their mistake. The governor being at the city called Rio de Janeiro about twelve leagues distant, they were hospitably entertained by a friar, who informed them the French had lately plundered, and used them very ill. Several of the inhabitants came from the town on the 22d, with canoes laden with corn, fowls, limes, and other provisions, which they exchanged for a few trifles : to these people the captain behaved with the utmost civili- ty, and promised a handsome reward to those who should secure any of the deserters from the ships. A Portuguese vessel coming to an anchor near to the ships on the 23d, laden with negroes, who were brought to work in the gold mines up the country. Captain Rogers fitted out and armed the pinnace, to go and inquire whence she came ; to which the captain replied in a very satis- factory manner, and sent back some very fine sugar and a pot of sweet- meats, as a present to the FiUglish captains. The Portuguese are extremely careful to conceal the roads leading to their minas from all other nations ; and they affirm that the distance from the seaports to these sources of wealth is prodigiously great. It was not long before this, that some French bucaniers, who put in here to water, seized above 1200 weight of gold in boats, the land road being almost impassable, leading from Rio de Janeiro to the mines. Captain Dover and Mr. Vanburgh, having been out to take their pleasure in the pinnace, on the 24th of this month, returned with a creature that smelt intolerably ; the skin of which was covered with fur, stuck full of quill? or prickles, like a hedge-hog, and its head resembled that of a monkey. Several Portuguese, and among them some Franciscan friars, who came alongside the ship, affirmed that the nauseous smell arose only from the skin, and that the flesh was very fine eating ; but it was so very oflensive, that none of the sailors could be prevailed upon to try it. On the 25th two men deserted from the Duchess, and made their escape into the woods ; but in the night were so terrified by the noise made by baboons and monkeys, which they mistook for the howhng of tigers, that they ran back and plunged into the water, hailing the ship, and praying to be taken on board again. On the sAme day two Irish land-men got away from the Duke, but were taken on shore two days afterward, while they were waiting for a Portuguese canoe to carry them to some other place, and, being brought on board, Captain Rogers ordered them to be severely whipped, and then put in irons. About four o'clock in the morning, the day before these fellows were retaken, the watch on the quarter-deck espied a canoe, and called her to come on board, but the people not answering, and striving to get away, caused a suspicion that they had either got deserters, or were going, by agreement, to fetch them off the island. On this, the pinnace and yawl were immediately despatched after them : the pinnace coming up near the canoe, fired to stop them, but to no purpose ; at length one of the Indians, who rowed the canoe, was wounded ; the person who owned and steered her was a friar, who had a quantity of gold which he had WOODES ROGERS. 103 got in the mines, by confessincr the ignorant people. This man ran the canoe on shore on a little island full of wood, just as his pursuers landed, and was attempting to make his escape, but a Portuguese, who had no gold to lose, called liim back. H« was taken with the other prisoners on board the ship, and civilly entertained by Captain Rogers ; the poor In- dian died in about two hours afterward, and the friar was inconsolable, threatening to seek redress either in England or Portugal for the death of his slave, and the loss of his gold, which possibly he had dropped in the bustle, or buried at the place where the canoe ran on shore. Captains Rogers and Courtney, and some of the other officers, on the 27th October, went in a boat to the town of Angre de Keys, to see a procession in honour of the Virgin Mary. The Portuguese governor, who treated them with the utmost politeness, requested that their music, which consisted of a hautboy and two trumpets, might be permitted to a'ssist at divine service instead of an organ ; which request was readily complied with. When the service of the church was ended, the musi- cians, who were by this time half drunk, marched at the head of the procession, in which was carried lamps of incense, a host, and an image of the Virgin Mary adorned with flowers, surrounded with wax candles, borne on a bier by four men, and followed by the guardian of the convent, about forty priests and friars, the governor of the town. Captain Rogers, Captain Courtney, and the other officers of their company, every one of whom carried a wax taper through complaisance. Some junior priests and the principal inhabitants of the place, every one with his consecrated candle, closed the procession. The ceremony ended, a genteel entertain- ment was provided for the English gentlemen at the convent ; and the governor, whose house was at three miles distance, accommodated the rest of the company at the guard-house, where twenty soldiers were sta- tioned, under the command of a lieutenant and an ensign. The town of Angre de Reys consists of about sixty low houses, poor- ly built, ill-furnished, and covered with palmetto leaves ; it has two churches, and a monastery of Franciscan friars, plainly furnished, but neat and decent. The friars possessed some black cattle, but did not choose to sell any. Perhaps the mean appearance of the place might have been owing to their having secreted their best effects, as they had so lately been plundered by the French. The officers returning on board, sent the boat back to the town for liquor, together with an invitation to the principal gentlemen of the place to return the visit on board, with which they complied, and were extremely merry. When the Hquor began to operate, they toasted the pope's health, and Captain Rogers in return gave the Archbishop of Canterbury, and William Penn, the famous quaker, which they readily pledged. The Island of Grande is remarkably high land, and about nine leagues long. It abounds with movikeys and other wild beasts ; has plenty of timber and excellent water ; and oranges, lemons, and guaives grow wild in the woods. The rivers and bays abound with fish, among which the shark is reckoned the most remarkable ; it has three rows of teeth, a very rough skin, and the old ones especially taste very strong : they are ten feet long, and usually attended by a fish called the pilot-fish,' which finds out prey for them, and whom, it is said, they never devour. The shark is a very heavy fish, and his mouth lying under the head, he is obliged to turn on his back to catch his prey ; and in this manner he often catches hold of the Umb of a man who is swimming, which he takes off at a bite ; he is, however, soon sickened by playing with a line, though extremely 104 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Strong under water. The pilot-fish is exceedingly like a mackerel when swimming in the water, and looks as if it were painted blue and white in a circular form, something like a barber's pole ; but there is another kind of pilot-fish, of a deep blue when out of the water, the back speckled like a seal's skin, the belly of a higher colour than the back and sides, and the scales smooth like those of a tench. One of these, which wa« eight inches long and three broad, was struck by Captain Cook with a harpooning-iron. They sailed out of the Bay of Grande on the 1st of December, steer- ing for Juan Fernandez ; on the 5th of January, encountered a violent storm, which drove such a quantity of water into the Duchess, that they expected she would sink every moment. As the men were going to sup- per about nine o'clock at night, she shipped a sea at the poop, which beat in the bulk-head and all the cabin-windows, and drove the first heutenant half way between the decks, together with several pistols and muskets, that were hanging there, darting a sword that was against the bulk-head of the cabin, through a hammock and rug that hung againtt the bulk-head of the steerage. Had the bulk-head of the great cabin not given v/ay, those who were in the other cabin must certainly have been drowned before the water could have run off. It is astonishing that many of the men were not killed with the shutters, the bulk-head, and the arms, •which were driven with amazing violence. Howevor, the yawl was ataved on the deck, and one or two of the men were -wounded, and all the clothes in the ship were excessive wet — chests, hwnmocks and bed- ding being soaked to such a degree, that they had not a rag of anything dry to cover them. On the 17th, took an observation, by which they found they had got round Cape Horn, Terra del Fuego, and the straits cf Magellan, being then to the northward of Cape Vittoria. About thi* time, the scurvy began to make a great havoc among the crews, but on the 26th saw land, which they took to be part of the coast of Chili. They now bore away for the Island of Juan Fernandez, which appear- ed iu sight on the last day of January, and next day Captain Dover, second captain of the Duke, manned the pinnace, and went off in search of provisions, as well as to find a convenient place for the ship to anchor. Perceiving, as soon as it grew dark, a fire kindled on the island, it was imagined that there were ships in the road ; this light was also seen by those on board the ships, who thought it proceeded from French vessels at anchor, and imagined they should be under a necessity of fighting them, or remain in want of water, and the ships were ordered to prepare for aa engagement. Captain Dover returned on board with the pinnace about two o'clock in the morning, having been afraid to land, on seeing the fire on shore. Next day, while still under apprehensions of an enemy, they stood in for the shore, from which blew such sudden and frequent gusts of wind, that they were forced to reef their top-sail, and stand by the masts, lest they should go by the board ; they now expected to find the enemy ; but seeing all clear, and no ships either in that bay or in another to the northward, conjectured that some ships had been there, but had departed on seeing them. About noon, sent the yawl ashore, with Captain Dover, Mr. Fry, and six men, well armed ; but as they did not speedily return. Captain Rogers sent his pinnace, well manned, to inquire into the occasion of their stay ; for he began to fear that the Spaniards might have a garrison there, and had made them prisoners. They therefore put out a signal for the yawl, WOODES ROGERS. 105 Bnd the Duchess showed a French ensign. The boats returned toward evening, and brought with them abundance of cray-fish, and a man clothed in goats' skins, who appeared wilder than the goats themselves. This man had been on the island four years and four months, having been left there by Captain Straddling, commander of a vessel called the Cinque Ports, of which this person, whose name was Alexander Selkirk, had been master. Captain Dampier, who had been at that time on board Captain StraddUng's ship, informed Captain Rogers that Selkirk was the best sailor on board her ; whereon he was immediately made mate of the Duke. It was he who had made the fire the last night, when he saw the ship, which he imagined to be EiJglish. During his abode on the island, he had seen several ships pass by, but only two came to an an- chor ; on which, he went to reconnoitre, and finding them to be Spa- niards, retired, and escaped, notwithstanding they shot at him. Had they been French, he would have submitted, but he chose rather to run the risk of dying alone on the island, than fall into the hands of the Spa- niards ; apprehending that they would either make him a slave in the mines ot murder him ; as he could by no means suppose they would spare any stranger, who was so well acquainted with the South Seas. These Spaniards had landed before he knew what they were ; and they came so near that it was with great difficulty be escaped, for after they had ftred, they pursued him to the woods, where he climbed to the top of a tree, at the foot of which some, who were searching for him, killed several goats within his sight ; but at length departed without discovering him. Mr. Selkirk .said he was a native of Largo, in the county of Fife, in Scotland, and bred a sailor from his youth. That the reason of his being left on the island, was a difference between him and hts captain, which, together with the ship's being leaky, made him at first willing to stay there, rather than go with him ; and that afterward, when he altered his mind, and would gladly have gone on board, the captain v/ould not re- ceive him. He had been at this island before to wood and water, at wh.ch time their vessel was chased thence by two French ships, leaving two of the crew on the island ; but after th^.y had been there six months, the ship returned and took them off. He had his clothes and bedding with him, also a firelock, a little powder, some bullets, and tobacco ; a hatchet, a kettle, a knife, a bible, some books of practical divinity, and his mathematical instruments and books. He diverted and provided for himself as well as he could, but for the first eight months he was ex- tremely melancholy, and could hardly support the terror of being alone in such a desolate place. He built two huts with pimento trees, covered them witji long grass, and lined them with the skins of goats, which he killed with his gun as he wanted, so long as his powder, which was but a pound, lasted. He procured fire by rubbing two sticks of pimento wood upon his knee. In the smaller hut, which was at some distance from the other, he dressed his victuals ; and in the larger he slept, and employed himself in reading, singing psalms, and praying ; so that he said he was a better Christian while in this solitude, than he was before or than, he feared, he ever should be again. When first left alone, he eat nothing till con- strained to it by mere hunger, which arose partly from the want of bread and salt, and partly from the excess of his grief; nor did he go to bed till he was able to keep awake no longer. The pimento wood, which burnt very clear, served him both for fire and candle, and refreshed him with its fragrant smell. He could have pro- 106 VOYAGES ROUND THE W6RLD. cured fish enough, but would not eat them for want of salt, because they occasioned a looseness, except a sort of cray-fish, which were extremely good, and as large as our lobsters. These he sometimes broiled, and at other times bailed, as he also did the goat's flesh, and made very good broth, for the taste of it is much more pleasant than that of the goats of England and Wales. He kept an account of five hundred of these ani- mals which he had killed, and as many more which he caught, and ha- ving marked them on the ear, let them go again. When his powder was gone, he took them by out-rufining them ; for his way of living and his continual exercise of walking and running, had so cleared his body of all gross humours, that he ran with wonderful swiftness through the woods and up the rocks and hills, as the people belonging to the ships perceived when they employed him to catch goats for them ; they had a bull-dog which they sent, with several of their nimblest runners, to assist him in catching goats ; but he distanced and tired both men and dog, catching the goats and bringing them oh his back. He told them that his agility in pursuing a goat had once like to have cost him his life ; he pursued it with so much eagerness, that he caught hold of it on the brink of a precipice, of which he was not aware, as the bushes concealed it from his sight ; so that he" fell vvrth the goat down the precipice, a prodigious height, and was so stunned and braised with the fall, that he lay there insensible, as he imagined, about twenty-four hours, and when he came to his senses he found the goat dead under him. He was so hurt that he was hardly able to crawl to his hut, which was about a mile distant, nor was he able to go abroad again in less thnn ten days. He came at length to rehsh his meat well enough without salt or bread, and found plenty of good turnips, which had been sowed there by Captain Dam- pier's men, and had now overspread some acres of ground. He had plenty of good cabbage from the trees, and seasoned his meat with the fruit of pimento trees, commonly called Jamaica pepper. He found also a black pepper called malageta, which was very good to expel wind and prevent a griping in the bowels. He soon wore out his shoes as well as his clothes by running in the woods, and at length his feet became so hard, that he ran everywhere without^ difficulty ; and it was some time after he was found before he could wear shoes again, for not being used to any so long, his feet swelled when he came first to put then! on. After he had conquered his melancholy, he diverted himself some- times with cutting his name on the trees, together with the time of his being left, and continuance there. He was at first much pestered with rats, which had bred in great numbers frmn some which had got on shore from ships, which put in there for wood and water. The rats gnawed his feet and clothes while he slept, so that he was obliged to cherish some cats, which had" also bred from some that had got ashore from dif- ferent ships ; these he fed with goat's flesh, by which many of them became so tame, that they would lie about him in hundreds, and soon delivered him from the rats. He likewise tamed some kids ; and to divert himself, would frequently sing and dance with them and his cats ; so that by the favour of Providence, and the vigour of youth, he being now only thirty years of age, he at length was enabled to conquer all the in- conveniences of his solitude, and became extremely easy. VvHien his clothes were worn out he made a coat and a cap of goat's skin, sewed together with little thongs of the same, which he cut vi^ith his knife. He had no other needle but a nail, and when his knife was worn out he made others as well as he could of some iron hoops that were left ashore, I ^OGDES ROGERS. lO? tvtiich he beat straight and thin, and ground upon stones. Having some linen cloth, he cut out some shirts, which he sewed with the worsted of his old stockings, pulled out on purpose, using an old nail to make holes, instead of a needle, and he had his last shirt on wheii he was found. At first going on board, he seemed much rejoiced, but had so far forgot his native language for want of use, that he could not speak plainly, only dropping a few words of English now and then, and without connexion ; but m two or three days he began to talk, and then told them that his silence was involimtary ; for that having been so long on the island with- out any person with whom to converse, he had forgotten the use of his tongue. A dram was offered him, but he would not taste it, having drank nothing but water for so long a time, and it was a good while before he could relish the victuals on board. He gave no account of any produce of the island, which had not been discovered before, except some black plums, which were very gdod, but difficult to come at ; the trees on which they grow being on high mountains and rocks. Pimento trees were plenty here, some of which were sixty feet high, and two yards in circumference ; the cotton trees were still higher, and near four fathoms round at the bottom. The climate of this island is so good, that the trees and grass continue green all the year round. The winter lasts no longer than June or July, and it is not then severe, there being only a small frost and a little hail, but sometimes great rains. The heat of the summer is equally moderate, and there is not much thunder or tpmpestu- ous weather of any sort. Selkirk saw no venomous creature on the island, nor any sort of beast but goats, which had originally been put on shore here, on purpose for a breed, by Juan Fernando, who settled here with some families, till the continent of Chili began to submit to the Spaniards, which being a more profitable soil, the planters were tempted to remove thither. They got the smith's forge on shore on the 3d of February, set the coopers to work, and made a little tent for Captain Rogers to have the benefit of the air. The people of the Duchess also erected a tent for their sick men : those in health were employed in providing fish both for themselves and the sick, and were sometimes able, so great was the abundance, to catch as many in a few hours as would serve two hundred people. The bay abounded with sea- fowls, which are as large as geese, but they had a fishy taste. Mr. Selkirk, to whom they gave the name of governor, never failed to procure two or three goats a day, for the use of the sick men, by which, together with the wholesome air and the help of the greens, they soon got rid of the scurv}'. They spent the time till the 10th in taking in wood and water, and refitting their ships. They likewise boiled up about eight gallons of sea-lions' oil, as they might have done several tons had they been provided with vessels. This they refined for their lamps, to save candles ; and it was sometimes used by the sailors instead of butter, to fry their meat, and they found it far from disagreeable. The healthy men eat the flesh of the young seals, which they preferred to the ship's provisions, and said it was as good as English lamb ; though Captain Rogers observes, he should have been very glad of the exchange. On the 13th of February, a consultation was held on board the Duchess, in which they made several regulations for preserving strict honesty, disciphne, and secrecy, on board both vessels, and agreed to sail to the islands of Lobos de la Mar ; and the ship which arrived there first was to lea^ve directions for the other how to proceed, buried in a 108 VOYAGfiS ROT/ND THE WORLD. glass bottle at the distance of twenty yards from the shore, at certain places which they named. On the 14th weighed anchor, with a fair gale at south-east, having buried only two men at the Island of Juan Fernan- dez. On the 24th of the month, crossed the tropic of Capricorn, when they saw several tropical birds, among which were the boobies, which are about the size of a magpie ; the eyes large, the back red, and the tail consisting only of one feather, about eighteen inches in length ; the fea- thers are black and white on the top of the back and wings, and white underneath ; they are supposed to live on fish ; they fly high, and are scarcely ever seen but near the tropics. On the 3d of March, when the weather was extremely hot, saw several pieces of wood and some trees floating on the water, together with abun- dance of weeds, about which was seen a considerable number of sea- larks, some of which Captain Cook shot, as he did a booby, almost white, and a seal, which immediately sunk ; a large sun-fish coming near tho boat, they struck it with the fisgig, but it got off. They also saw several flying fish, which are long and slender, having a very large eye, and a body which in shape and colour resembles that of a mullet. They some- times fly near the length of a musket-shot before they touch the water, and then, wetting their wings, rise up again ; their enemies, the dolphins, chasing them and swimming after them with such swiftness, that they frequently catch them on their falling into the water ; and sometimes the flying fish drop into ships. On the 4th of March every man waa put to an allowance of three pints of water per day, that the stock might hold out, they being deter- mined to keep at sea, in the hope of taking some prize from Lima or elsewhere. According to their hopes, on the evening of the 15th, they saw a sail, and the Duchess being nearest soon took her. She was a little vessel, of sixteen tons, from Payta, bound to Cheripe, to take in flour, with a small sum of money on board to purchase it. The master's name was Antonio Heliagos, a mestizo, that is, one begotten between an Indian and a Spaniard : the crew, which consisted of eight men, were a Spaniard, a negro, and six Indians. They said that all the French ships, being seven in number, were sailed out of those seas six months before, and that no more were to come there ; adding, that the Spaniards had such an antipathy to the French, that at Calao, the seaport of Lima, they quarrelled so frequently, and killed so many, that none were suflfered to go on shore for some time before they sailed thence. The prisoners likewise said, that there had been no enemies in those parts since Cap- tain Dampier had been there four years before ; and that Captain Strad- dling's ship, the Cinque Ports, who was Dampier's consort, foundered on the coast of Barbacom, where he and about six or seven of his men were saved, but being taken in their boat, had been kept prisoners at Lima ever since, where they had fared much worse than poor Selkirk, whom they had left on shore at Juan Fernandez. When they had manned the prize with English sailors, they hauled off close on a wind for Lobos, having shot within it ; and had not the crew of the prize informed them better, they might have endangered their ships by running in farther, as there are shoals between the island and the main. On the 17th, anchored between the two islands of Lobos de la Mar, together with the prize, which on the day following they prepared to fit out as a cruiser, under the command of Mr. Strutton, giving her the name of the Beginning. On the 20th, being manned with thirty-two men, and stocked wiih provisions, she put to sea with the Duchess ; and on the WOODES ROGERS. 109 26th brought in a prize which they had taken in company ; her harden was fifty tons, and she was laden with timber, cocoa nuts, and tobacco, which last article was distributed among the crews of the Duke and Duchess. Having cleaned and refitted the last prize, they made Mr. Selkirk master, and removed the sick of both ships on board her, under the care of a surgeon. The largest two of these islands, called Lobos de la Mar, (to distinguish them from those called Lobos de la Terra,) are about sixteen leagues from the continent, and six miles in length. The soil is a white clay, mixed with sand and rocks. They atford no fresh water nor anything green, and have no kind of wood. There are a vast plenty of a kind of vultures, or carrion crows, which at a distance looked so like turkeys, that one of the ship's officers blessed himself with the sight of them, thinking he should fare deliciously ; nay, so very eager was he to taste them, that he had not patience till the boat could put him ashore, but jumped into the water with his gun in his hand, and get- ting near enough, let fly at two of them ; but, when he came to take up his game, it stunk so intolerably, that he was laughed at for his fruitless- impatience by his brother officers. On the island are abundance of seals, and some sea-lions ; the seals are much larger than those at Juan Fernandez, but the fur not so tine. They killed many to eat their livers, but one of the crew, a Spaniard, dying suddenly after eating of them, the use of this sort of food was forbidden. The prisoners said that old seals were very unwholesome. The wind always blowuig fresh over land, brought an ugly noisome smell from the seals on shore, which gave Captain Roger's a violent head-ache, and this smell was complained of by everybody else on board ; but no complaint of this kind had been made from the smell of those animals at Juan Fernandez. The prisoners told them, it was expected that the widow of the late viceroy of Peru, with her family and riches, would shortly embark for Acapulco, and stop at Payta to refresh, ors ail in sight, as customary in one of the king's ships of thirty guns ; and that about eight months before, a ship with 200,000 pieces of eight on board, besides a cargo of liquors and flour, had passed by Payta for Acapulco. They also said, they had left Siguier Morel in a stout ship, with dry goods for Lima, re- cruiting at Payta, where he expected in a few days a French built ship, belonging to the Spaniards, to come from Panama, richly laden, with a bishop on board. Upon this advice they agreed to spend as much time as possible cruising off Payta, whhout discovering themselves, for fear of hindering their other designs. On the 1st of April found the sea of the colour ol blood, which, on inspection, appeared to be caused by the spawn of fish swimming on the surface of the water. On the 2d, Mr. Fry was sent in the pinnace after a vessel they discovered ; he soon took and brought her in, when she appeared to be the ship already mentioned, commanded by Signior Morel and his brother ; her burthen was 500 tons, and, besides her cargo, she had on board fifty negroes, and many passengers bound from Panama lo LiiTia, with a fine stock of fresh provisions ; the command of this vessel was given to Lieutenant Fry ; and the following day the Beginning took a prize of thirty-five tons burthen, bound from Guaquil to Chancay ; by which vessel they learned tiiat the bishop already mentioned was still at Payta, but would soon pass the road in which they now were, on his way to Lima. On hearing this, the cruisers were stationed in such amannei; as seeraed to bid fair for shortening his lordship's voyage, 10 lid VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLI). On the 7th, Mr. Vanhurgh still continuing to behave in a very riotous end improper manner, was, in a full council of the officers of both ships, turned out of his post as a person unfit to be trusted. It was resolved in a committee, on the 12th of April, not to send the Beginning prize into Payta, as had been agreed on, for fear of being discovered ; but to attempt the town of Guaquil ; the enterprise to be conducted by the three captains, P4,ogers, Courtney, and Dover ; Rogers to command a company of seventy-one officers and sailors ; Courtney to be at the head of severity-three men ; and Dover to have seventy men under his com- mand. Captain Dampier to command the artillery, with a reserve of twenty-two men to act upon occasion ; Captain Cook to command the Duchess with forty-two men ; and Captain Fry the Duke, with forty men. They hauled in for Cape Blanco on the 13th, when a cCmmittee was held, in which it was agreed, that for the encouragement of officers and men, all bedding and clothes, gold rings, buckles and buttons, liquors and provisions, with all sorts of arms, except great guns for ships, should be allowed as plunder, to be equally divided between all the men on board or on shore, according to their whole shares. That all wrought gold or silver crucifixes, watches found about the prisoners, or wearing apparel of any kind, shodld also be plunder, except money, women's ear-rings, loose diamonds, pearls, and precious stones ; and, in case a)iything was not sufficiently explained, a committee should, upon application being made for that purpose, meet after the expedition, and determine what farthef ought to be reputed plunder, withdut fraud to the owners, or prejudice to the officers and men. That no person should misinterpret this allow- ance, so as to conceal wrought or unwrought gold or silver, pearls, jewels, diamonds, or precious stones, not found about prisoners, or their wearing apparel, which should be looked upon as a high misdemeanour and severely punished : that none should keep any plunder, but deliver it to his officer publicly, and carry it to the place appointed for the deposit. That in case any town, fort, or ship, were taken by storm, the encou- ragement agreed on at the Island of St. Vincent should be allowed to each man, over and above the gratuity promised by the owners to those who signalized themselves. But if any party should be engaged with another of the enemy, and defeat them, then all the prisoners, and the arms and moveables about them, should be divided amdng them only who were in the action ; all the plunder taken on shore to be carried on board by persons appointed for that purpose, and entered in public books, for the satisfaction of all concerned. That those who should commit any disorder on shore, disobey command, quit their post, discourage the men, behave themselves cowardly in any action, burn or destroy anything without orders, or debauch the prisoners, should Idse all their shares of the plunder, and be severely punished otherwise. On the morning of the 15th, the French built prize, which they had so long expected, appeared within sight near the shore ; and, as they had but little wind, the float and pinnace rowed after and attacked her, but she repulsed them, with the loss of two men, one of whom was Captain Roger's brother, shot through the head, and three wdunded ; the ships coming up, she struck to the Duchess, after receiving a shot or two. The men begged for quarter, which was readily promised. There were seventy blacks, and a considerable number of passengers on board ; the lading consisted of bale goods ; and there was a considerable quantity of pearls. The vessel was about 270 tons burthen, commanded by Don Joseph i^izabala, who informed them that the bishop and his attendants h?i(3 been landed at Point St. Helena, and were gone by land to Guaquil. On the 17th, all the men intended for the descent upon Guaquil, to the number of 201, went on board the barks, each having a ticket delivered to him, signifying what company he belonged to, and his particular sta- tion, which was thought necessary to prevent the men from straggling. As there were 300 prisoners in custody, and those to guard them but little more than a third of that number, irons were sent on board the Duke and the other vessels, in order to intimidate the captives. Captains Fry and Cook, to whom wore committed the care of the Duke and Duchess, were directed to keep out at sea for forty-eight hours, to prevent their being discovered by the enemy ; and afterward to wait the event of the expedition at Punta Arena, ofi which place Captain Rogers and his barks, together with Captain Courtney, came to an anchor at ten o'clock at night ; when taking to their boatsj with about forty men, they made for Puna, an island covered with swamps and overrun with man- groves, and in the morning came to a grappling close under the land, out of sight of the look-out. At seven on the evening of the 19th, the ships came to an anchor between St. Clara and Tumbez ; the boats weifhing, rowed within half a mile of the town, and came to a grappling, disposing themselves, for fear of being discovered, in such a manner that they had the appearance of drift timber upon the water. By break of day on the 20th, they got close up with the town, and secured all the canoes ; and, notwithstanding an alarm was spread by an Indian who escaped, they seized the governor of the town, and with him about twenty people, who assured them that the inhabitants of Guaquil could have no information of their being so near, those who had fled from Puna having taken refuge in the woods. In this town they found a paper that had been sent from Lima, copies of which were also dispersed all along the coast, to give notice that Captain Dampier was again arrived in those seas ; they were, however, convinced that they should be able to execute what they intend- edj before any forces could arrive from Lima to oppose their designs. On the morning of the 21st, the Beginning was sent ahead toward Punta Arena, on the Island of Puna, for fear of any danger ; but she fqund there only an empty vessel riding close under the point : she proved to be a new Spanish bark, that had been sent to load salt ; but the crew, on sight of the English, thought proper to abandon her. All apprehen- sions being now totally removed, the boats and barks rowed for the town of Guaquil, and at eleven saw a light in the town. On this, they rowed as easily as possible, till within a mile of it, for fear of a discovery, and then heard the sentinels call to one another, talk some time, and bid him bring fire. Finding they were discovered, they rowed over to the other side against the town, saw a fire made at the place where the sentinels talked, and soon after, many lights at the water-side and all over the town : henrd them ring the alarm bell, fire several volleys, and saw them light a fire on the hill where the beacon was kept, to give the town notice that they were come up the river, .The boats came now to a grappling, and such a violent dispute arose among some of the chief officers, that they were heard on shore, but the Spaniards, not understanding what they said, fetched an Englishman to the water-side, to interpret what they heard ; but before he came the debate was at an end. A council was held in the stern of one of the boats, to resolve whether they should land hnmediaiely, or stay till day- break ; and as the officers differed in their opinions, it was agreed, since they did not know the ground, and the barks were not come up, which 112 VOYAGES ROUND THiS WORLD. had near half the men and the artillery on board, to stay till daylight, by which time it was hoped the barks would join them ; therefore they fell a little way down the river to meet them, hearing several musket-shots in their way, which they at first thought were fired by the Spaniards along the shore. At break of day, on the 22d, saw one of the barks at anchor close under the shore, within a mile of the town ; at flood descried the other coming up the river ; they then rowed back to the bark, which had fired the muskets above-mentioned at some fishermen who were passing, and whom they made prisoners. When their forces were thus reassembled, they held a council in the pinnace, sailed up the river, and sent a flag of truce with the captain of the French built ship, the Governor of Puna, and another prisoner ; then towed up the barks abreast, and came to an anchor .igainst the town. When the captam of the French built ship came to the corregidor, or mayor of the town, he asked the number of English, which the captain pretended to be greater than it really was. The corregidor said they were boys, and not men ; to which the captain replied, he would find they were men ; for they had fought him bravely in their open boat, though he had killed the brother of one of the cap- tains, and wounded and killed others : and, therefore, advised him to agree for the ransom of the town, for though he had 3000 men, he would not be able to withstand them. To this the corregidor replied, "My horse is ready.'* On the 33d they went up the river after some vessels in the pinnace, six of which they took and brought to an anchor by the barks ; they also seized two new vessels, of about 400 tons each, and then went on shore with a flag of truce, and the governor came on board one of the prizes, to consult concerning the ransom of the town and ships ; this they could not agree about, and he promised to return again at seven in the evening, but was not so good as his word. The boats now went up the river again to search for more ships, but returned without finding any, but they took several canoes with some plate on board. The sentinels hailed a boat after midnight, which came on board with one gentleman, who said he was sent by the corregidor, with a present of two bags of flour, two sheep, and two hogs ready killed ; also two jars of brandy and two of wine ; and to assure them that the governor would have been with them accord- ing to his appointment, but was prevented by the absence of one of the principal merchants concerned. He would come off, however, in the morning by seven o'clock ; and hoped they would do him the justice to believe he was a man of honour ; for though he had been greatly rein- forced since he left them, he was determmed to wait on them agreeable to his promise. The captains sent their compliments to the corregidor, and thanks for his present, and said they were sorry they had nothing to send him by way of return ; but desired he might be told, they were sur- prised he had not kept his word, but depended that he would convince them of his being a man of honour, by meeting them at seven o'clock in the morning, or there should be a final end of the treaty. They waited with impatience till seven in the morning, when they saw a flag of truce on board one of the new ships, where they supposed the governor to be, and therefore manned their pinnace, and sent their linguist to give their promise, that if the corregidor would come on board the prize, he should have full liberty to return ; on which he came on board with three other persons. The barks belonging to the two frigates were now ordej^d to go close under the shore, near the best part of the town> WOODES ROGERS. 113 and everything to be held in readiness for landing, in case they should not agree with the corregidor. The three captains at first demanded that 50,000 pieces of eight should be paid for the ransom of the town, the two new ships, and the six barks ; besides which, the governor was to oblige himself to purchase the goods and negroes, which were taken in the prizes, at certain stipulated prices, to be paid within nine days. The Spaniards agreed to the latter article, offering to leave two hos- tages for the performance of it, which were thought insufficient ; but they refused to give near the sum demanded for the town and ships, saying, they had men and arms sufficient to defend themselves. From this delay the captain suspected that they only wanted to gain time, and therefore informed them that they could take the town or seize the ships at plea- sure; that they looked on both the one and the other as much their own as if already in their possession ; and if their demands were not instantly complied with, they would fire both town and ships before night. After some little consideration, the corregidor and his companions agreed to buy the cargoes, and to give hostages for 40,000 pieces of eight for the town, the two new ships, and the barks ; but they declined signing this agreement till they had the consent of the principal persons of the town, which the corregidor undertook to procure in the space of an hour. About one in the afternoon the corregidor was put on shore in Captain Rogers's pinnace ; some of the men were for stopping him, because not long be- fore an Indian came off in a canoe to know whether he had agreed with the English, as, in case he had not, his men were in readiness to begin the fight, and waited only for his orders ; but the corregidor insisting that the detaining him would be contrary to the flag of truce, he was permit- ted to depart ; the three gentlemen, however, remained as hostages, at the request of the corregidor, who did not doubt but the agreement would soon be ratified. When the time allotted for the answer was expired, a messenger came from the town to inform them that they could raise but* 30,000 pieces of eitrht, and he did not mention a single word of trade. On this they sent their linguist and one prisoner with their final message, which was, that if in half an hour they did not send three more good hostages for the 40,000 pieces of eight agreed on, they would strike the flag of truce, land, give no quarter, and fire the town and ships. In the meantime, they saw the Spaniards quit the two new ships, and they immediately took posses- sion of tliem. The messenger returned, and in about half an hour three men more came from the town to the bank opposite the captain's barks, where they held out a white handkerchief, as if to treat farther. They said that the resolution was to give 32,000 pieces of eight, and no more ; to which the English rephed they had done treating, and bid them retire immediately out of the reach of their shot, as they valued their lives. They now struck their white flag, and let fly their martial colours. Captain Rogers ordered two guns, of about six hundred weight each, mounted on carriages, into the great launch, and filled their three boats with men in order to land ; he then went himself into a pinnace, Captain Courtney in another, and Captain Dover in the launch, the three boats carrying about seventy men. They towed the launch ashore ; the third lieutenant remained on board the bark, with ten men, to play their guns into the town as they landed ; where the Spaniards, compared with their little army, made a formidable appearance. As soon as they landed, which v.as about four iu the afternoon, the men fired, on their knees, at the brink of the bank, and then loading, advanced, having called to their 10* il4 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. bark to forbear firing, lest they should hurt their own men. They pushed forward with such bravery, that the Spaniards fired but one volley, and retired back to their guns, where their horse drew up a second time ; while the English, still pressing on with the utmost intrepidity, came to the streets of the town, where they saw four guns pointed at them before a spacious church ; but as soon as they came in sight, the horse moved off with great precipitation. Captain Rogers now called out to his men to run and seize the guns, he himself advancing with about ten men within pistol-shot of them, at which boldness the enemy were so intimidated, that after one general discharge they all fled, except the gunner, an Irishman, who kept his post till he received four wounds, of which he afterward died. Many more of the English now coming up, under the command of Captain Dover and Cap- tain Courtney, Mr Rogers remained to secure the post he had so bravely gained, and took possession of the church, where they made about twelvg prisoners, while the rest marched to the other end of the town. From the time they landed till their seizing the guns and taking possession of the church, was not more than half an hour. Captain Dampier, with twenty-five men, was now posted at the guns, which he turned against the enemy, who soon fled from the town. By this time the rest of the English being la;ided, marched after Captain Courtney and Captain Dover. The men in general behaved v/ith the utmost courage, but, as is generally the case with sailors, they were kept but little under command after the first piece was fired ; but after the attack, they forbore hard drinking, and kept properly together. Captain Rogers overtook Courtney and Dover at the other end of the town, where he left Courtney to keep guard at a church, and then re- turned to his first post, while Dampier and his men vrent to reinforce Dover and Courtney. They were m quiet possession of the town by sun-set, having met with no opposition after the enemy quitted the great church. They now made a proper disposition of their guards, and in the evening Captain Rogers went on board the bark, settled a watch, and .then returned ashore to the church. Captain Dover now set fire to five or six houses which fronted the church, which burnt all night and the next day. The reason of burning these was, that there was a hill near this quarter, and thick woods within a musket-shot of the church, whence the enemy were almost continually firing at him during the whole night, but without doing any damage : and the next day several small parties of horse and foot came down, but retired without making any attempt. Had the Spaniards been courageous, they might have done great mischief to Captain Dover, as his friends were not near enough to assist him ; for the town being long, the whole of it could not be kept without dividing the men into.parties at a considerable distance ; but his firing the houses did him great service, by covering the worst part of his quarters for that night ; and at daybreak Captain Courtney relieved him, when they both quitted those quarters as a place too much exposed to the enemy. An Indian, who had been taken prisoner, informed Rogers that he knew of much money up the river in houses and bark-logs ; whereupon the Duchess's pinnace, with twenty-one men, commanded by Lieutenant Connelly, were sent up the river. As they had found but little wealth in the town. Captain Rogers was for sending both the pinnaces to seize that which the Indian had spoken of, but the others would by no means consent to it, lest the enemy should engage them in the absence of their boats and people. The English now began, with iron crows and other WOODES ROGERS. 115 instruments, to break open the churches and all the store-houses, cellars, &,c., but in this they had very little success, as scarcely anything was left m the town except flour, beans, peas, and jars of wine and brandy. These, howerer, they began to carry to the water-side, but as the wea- ther was wet, hot, and unhealthy, the men were so fatigued, and became so weak, that they could not well work at thia employment. Numbers of the people were for taking up the boarded floor of the church, to search for treasure among the dead ; but Captain Rogers absolutely for- bad its being done, because not long before their arrival a pestilential disease had carried oflf great numbers of people. They found only two of the enemy killed in the town, one of whom was the Irish gunner above-mentioned ; and made one prisoner, who was wounded in the head ; but on inquiry, they were told that fifteen were killed and wound- ed. Among the English only two were wounded. On the 24th the English colours were kept flying all day on the tow- ers of the church, where Captain Dover kept guard ; while Rogers and Courtney took care to have what they found most useful conveyed to the water-side. On this day the Governor of Puna and another prison- er were sent to the enemy, who were in the woods at about a league's distance, with proposals for ransoming the town. They returned in the evening with an ambiguous answer, but desired to be sent back again the next morning, in hopes to prevent the burning of the town. They had intelligence now that the enemy were coming down the hill ; on which an alarm was given, and part of the men being left with the guns. Captain Rogers marched with the rest, and met Captain Courtney on the bridge, retiring, who reported that the enemy were numerous and well armed at the north end of the town. Rogers desiring they might march against them, Courtney consented ; whereupon they went forward with their whole force, which did not exceed seventy men ; but on their advancing, the Spaniards retired into the woods, from whence they assailed them with firing shots, which the English returned at random ; and the cap- tains nut agreeing about keeping possession of that end of the- town, marched back, taking some of the most valuable effects, which they sent on board the barks. About ten o'clock at night the boat, which had been sent up the river, returned, having been absent about twenty- four hours. They had pro- ceeded about seven leagues, and sixteen of the men had landed at sis different places, the others taking care of he boat, having a swivel gun to defend themselves. At one place they separated, and four of the men rambled so far into the woods in search of wealth that, after wandering about three hours, they could not find their way back to their companions, but they met them again afterward, by mere accident, and got to the boat. They had, at difl'erent places, some skirmishes with the enemy ; and in particular, chased thirty-five horsemen, who were well armed, and coming to assist the inhabitants of Guaquil. They found the houses up the river full of women ; at one place there were above a dozen well dressed and handsome, from whom they took several gold chains and ear-rings ; but were in other respects so civil to them, that the ladies brought them a cask of good liquor, and offered to dress victuals for the party. Several of the largest gold chains they had concealed by fastening them round their middles, legs, and thighs; but as' in those hot countries the women go extremely thinly clothed in fine linen and silk, the men by pressing on the outside of their clothes felt the chains, and by means of. 116 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. their linguist, modestly desired them to take them off with their own hands. As they returned down the river, they called at this house for provisions, and as they had been so civil at first, the ladies expressed neither surprise nor uneasiness at a second visit. In their progress, they had seized a large empty bark, but thought proper to abandon her. They brought back with them, in plate, ear-rings, and gold chains, to the valtie of £1000, but were of opinion they lost much more than they got, for want of another boat ; for while they were upon the search on one side, the bark-logs and canoes crossed the river in their sight, carrying many persons, with their effects, out of their reach. They also acquainted Captain Rogers, that in the places where they had been above the town, they had seen more than 300 armed horse and foot, in several parlies, so that they apprehended the design of the enemy, in pretending to ransom, was to gain time till able to attack them with great superiority of num- bers. Hearing this, the English, for fear of a surprise, agreed to assem- ble in a body at every alarm, which, on the sight of any large parties, was beat several times in a day. Three drums, several swords and lances, and a quantity of arms, five jars of powder, together with some matches and shot, were found in the church, where Captain Ilogers also found the corregidor's gold-headed cane, and another with a silver head ; for among the Spaniards, none carry a cane but the chief officers ; and no person must use one with a silver or gold head who is under the de- gree of a captain. About one in the afternoon of the 25th of April, the prisoners returned \yith an offer of 30,000 pieces of eight, as a ransom for the town, ships, and barks, to be paid within the space of twelve days ; which the cap- tains did not approve, nor would they have waited so long for a much larger sum, as they had received undoubted intelligence that the Spa- niards had sent an express to Lima, to hasten the succours expected thence. The captains, therefore, agreed upon sending this final answer ; that the town should be set on fire, by three o'clock the next afternoon, if sufficient hostages were not immediately delivered for the payment of 30,000 pieces of eight wiihin six days ; and that in the interim a cessa- tion of arms should be granted. This day the enemy appeared thick in the woods ; and in the afternoon an officer and nine men were engaged at the north end of the town with a party of Spaniards, whom they drove into the v/oods. But following them too far, they were attacked by others, when one of the English was shot through the calf of the leg; and another, who was endeavouring to recharge his piece, received a shot upon the middle of hi?; po^e-axe that hung by his side, which made an impression upon the irons and bruised the flesh directly under it, but did no other material injury. The person who was shot in the leg, living irregularly and drinking hard, fell mto a fever, which cost him his life. They laid this night in the church, keeping sentinels round it, within a musket-shot of each other, with a charge to challenge each other every quarter of an hour : and every man to keep his arms and ammunition in the most exact order, and be ready to rise at the least alarm. A French- man, belonging to Captain Rogers's company, who, with some others, had been sent to strengthen Captain Courtney's quarters, standing sentry in 'the night, shot one of the sailors dead. This accident was occasioned by a strict order that had been given to .shoot every person in the night who did not answer on being challenged, which, as the challenge was given in French, the English sailor was not able to dov At two o'clock in the afternoon of the 26 tb, the prisoners returned from the enemy, WOODES ROGERS. Ill ■with two horsemen, who informed them their last proposal was agreed to ; and that the Governor of Puna, who had been very iiistrumental in bringing the affair to a conclusion, together with an old gentleman on board one of the barks, were to remain as hostages for the performance of it ; but the messengers said, that if these gentlemen were not thought sufficient security, they themselves were willing to remain prisoners ; which was not insisted upon, but they were permitted to return to the camp, to bring back the agreement signed. The two hostages lay this night at the English quarters, and the next morning were put on board one of the ships, while the English retired from the city with drums beating and colours flying, leaving the Spa- niards at full liberty to return to their houses. Captain Rogers, who, with a few men, brought up the rear, picked up many cutlasses, pole- axes, and pistols, which the men, who were grown quite weary of a mili- tary life, dropped through laziness as they marched. Their greatest difficulty was in getting the guns down to the wator-side, the ground being soft ; the men who helped to carry them sunk to the depth of half a leg. To remedy as much as possible this inconvenience, they con- trived a frame of bamboo canes, under which six men could stand, and bear an equal weight on their shoulders. Though they were large four pounders, the gun and frame not exceeding 1500 weight, yet they would not have been able to have performed their work if the prisoners had not assisted. As Captain Rogers was marching out of the town, he missed one John Gabriel, a Dutchman, whom he apprehended was either killed or made prisoner : but the fellow had taken up his quarters in a certain house where there was some excellent brandy ; of which he drank so freely, that at last it laid him on the floor, and in this condition he was when Captain Rogers and his men left the town. A little while afterward, the master of the house returned, and found the Dutchman stretched at his full length, and so dnmk that it was difficult to distinguish whether he was dead or asleep. The Spaniard, however, determined to make the experiment : but first of all called in his neighbours, who advised him to secure the Dutchman's arms, which being done without any difficulty, they then raised him up and sat him on his feet, when, after a little tot- tering, he opened his eyes, and began to stare about him, not being very well satisfied to find himself awake in such company. His landlord, however, soon set his heart at rest, by restoring him his arms, and ad- vising him to make all the haste he could to join his companions, who were not yet embarked. There needed not much entreaty to set the Dutchman forward ; he moved with all imaginable alacrity, and soon got safe on board. Captain Rogers informs us this was the only man who had drank to an extraordinary degree since their fir^ft entering the town. The plunder they took, exclusive of the ransom received for the town, was very considerable ; being about 230 bags of flour, beans, peas, and rice, fifteen jars of oil, 160 jars of other liquors, some cordage, iron- ware, and small nails, about four half-jars of powder, about a ton of pitch and tar, a parcel of clothing and necessaries, about £1200 in plate, ear-rings, &c., 150 bales of dry goods, four guns, about 200 ordinary Spanish arms and musket barrels, a few packs of indigo, cocoa, and an- natto, with about a ton of loaf sugar. They left abundance of goods in the town, besides liquors of most sorts, and sea-stores, with several ware-houses full of cocoa, several ships on the stocks, and two nevf •hips unrigged lying at anchor. 118 VOYAGtES ROTTND THE WORLD. The hostages informed them that, during the treaty, 80,000 pieces of eight, of the king's money, were sent out of the town, besides their plate, jewels, and other things of the greatest value ; from which it ap- pears, that if they had landed at first, and allowed the enemy no time, they had been much greater gainers than they were ; and, in that case, they were well assured they might have made to the value of 200,000 pieces of eight in money, plate, and jewels ; and yet the place was then poorer than it had been for forty years past, having been almost burnt down about a year and a half before, which had occasioned a very great expense in the rebuilding. Guaquil, the metropolis of a province of that name in Peru, is in length about a mile and a half, and divided into two parts, called the Old and New Town, which are joined by a bridge about half a mile long, for the use only of foot passengers. On each side of the bridge are some houses at a distance ; and the number of houses in both towns amount to above 500 ; the inhabitants are about 2000. Some of the houses were lofty brick-buildings, but the majority of tim- ber or bamboos split, and many were decently furnished. In the mer- chants' store-houses were great quantities of meal, brandy, sugar, clothing, cordage, and iron. Some of the inhabitants had calashes, which could be but of Uttle use, unless to carry them a stone's throw to church, for the ground is so boggy, especially in winter, that no road could be made for them. This morass-ground was full of large toads, some of them as big as an English two-penny loaf. The town is governed by a cor- regidor, who is the chief magistrate and appointed by the khig. It is well situated for trade and ship building, lying seven leagues from Puna, and fourteen from Punta Arena, upon a large river, which receives many small ones that fall into it ; this river has many villages and farm-houses on its banks, on which grow abundance of mangroves and sarsapariila, which, impregnating its waters, are said to render them efficacious against diseases. But when the floods come down from the mountains, the water is reckoned unwholesome, on account of its bringing down several poisonous plants and fruits, among which is the machanilla, a kind of poisonous apple, which kills all birds that taste of it ; and the English, while they were there, saw hundreds of them dead upon the water. Captain Rogers took his leave of the barks a mile below the town, with the pinnacq double manned, designing to get before them to the ships at Punta Arena, The day proved excessively hot, and they saw many alligators in the river. On the following day, which was the 28th of April, Captain Rogers reached Puna, where he met Mr. Duck and Mr. Hatley, in the Beginning, with an empty bark they had taken ; the Spa- niards having gone on shore, and left her at anchor off Punta Arena. The people left behind were much concerned at the delay of. their com- panions, and the scarcity of water was so great that for some time past the prisoners had been allowed but a pint a day. They had also been obliged to sink a small prize which they had taken, to prevent the pri- soners running away with her, as they could not spare hands sufficient for manning her securely. Captain Rogers got on board by daylight, and found his people hear- tily rejoiced at his return, after an absence of twelve days, on an expe- dition subject to so many dangers and difficulties, all of which he had happily surmounted. Lieutenants Cooke and Fry had, during this time, been under great uneasiness on account of the prisoners, to whom they allowed their liberty in the day-time, but at night were shut up in WOODES ROGERS. 119 the forecastle, or between decks. On board the prize, which was not so secure, they put them in irons every evening, atid set them free in the morning ; but never allowed any correspondence between the prisoners in the several ships, by which means they were ignorant of their own strength and the weakness of their masters. A vessel coming in sight about three in the afternoon of the 29th of April, Captain Cook despatched the Havre de Grace's boat, well manned, in pursuit, and she immediately surrendered. She proved to be a bark of thirty tons burthen, laden with beans, peas, quinces, marmalade, plums, apples, oranges, pomegranates, Guaquil sheep, 270 sacks of flour, 200 sugar loaves, and some dried beef. She had six men on board, besides the master ; had been out seven days from Pulania, where they had left some stout French ships ; and orders had been lately received from Lima, directing them to keep a good look-out, as an English squa- dron was soon expected in those seas, but that it was not known against what particular place they were bound. They waited with impatience from this time to the 2d of May, in ex- pectation of the ransom for the town of Guaquil, and they now began to think that the corregidor meant to parley with them till forces should arrive from Lima ; and the hostages expected no better fate than to be carried prisoners to England. They w^ere in some degree relieved from these uneasy reflections by the arrival of a boat in the evening, with 22,000 pieces of eight, in part payment ; upon which many of the pri- soners were put on shore, and a message to the corregidor sent back by the same boat, informing him they intended to sail the next day, and would carry the hostages away with them, if the-remainder of the money was not sent before their departure. In a short time after this, Captain Courtney took charge of the Havre de Grace, and fell down with her to Punta Arena, to which place Captain Rogers agreed to follow him the next morning, waiting only to take on board some hogs, sheep, black cattle, plantains, cocoas, water, sails, and other necessary matters, which were still on shore. Before his departure he put on shore the governor of Puna, who was one of the hostages, making him several presents. A boat came on the next day, with some 3000 dollars more, and the persons who brought it declared the remainder, and also 1200 dollars to trade for goods, should soon come. But Captain Courtney being of opinion this was only a pretence for detaining them till a squadron of ships could be fitted out at Lima, insisted they should immediately quit this station, in which he was seconded by a majority of the officers, on which they resolved to make all possible despatch. The Beginning being small, and of no farther use, they sold her to the Spaniards for about the value of fifty pounds sterling, which was paid in gold chains, pearls, &c., and they put the prisoners on board ; but kept the pilots, together with a person who could speak English, the son of the President of Panama, and three remaining hostages. They now bore away for the Gallapagos islands, with a strong gale at south-south-west; and, discovering land on the 17th, by daybreak next morning were within four leagues of two large islands, nearly joined to- gether. Having first agreed where to meet in case of separation, they now sent their boat on shore twice in search of water, but she returned with a melancholy account that none was to be found, and that the island was nothing but loose earth, very rotten and heavy, which broke like cinders under their feet ; and the ground was so parched that it would not bear the weight of a man, which induced Captain Rogers to 120 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. believe it had been a volcano, though, he says, there was some greens and shrubs upon it. The Duchess having caught a considerable quan- tity of turtle and other fish, distributed it on the 21st among the sick of both ships, which, as their provisions were nearly exhausted, proved of the utmost service. But their present unhappiness was not a little in- creased, by finding the medicines begin to run shore, while the sick drop- ped off apace ; it was observed that none died except those who were on shore at Guaquil. On the 22d Mr. Hatley, with five men on board one of the prize barks, having water on board for only two days, together with a galleon, another of the prize ships, were missing : nor was their any sign of their return- ing, though lights were kept at the top-mast heads of the Duke and Duchess all night, and guns continually fired. Captain Rogers, with the Duke, the Havre de Grace, and the bark, went directly in search of them, and came up wilh the galleon in a few honrs, near the easternmost island ; but could obtain no intelligence of Hatley, whom they began to give up for lost. It was agreed in a council of officers, on the 26th, to stand over to the main in search of water, which could not be found on any of the islands. On the 6th of June, a discourse was overheard by one of the sailors, between the Indian and black prisoners, who proposed to murder the English, and run away with the ship. On being charged with it, they denied having designed any such thing ; but acknowledged they had had some conversation of the kind, without, however, any seri- ous intentions; to prevent any evil consequences that might arise from these cabals, Captain Rogers divided them among the other ships. On this day the Duchess, after a short chase, took a vessel of ninety tons burthen, named the St. Thomas de Villa Nova, Juan Navarro Na- va^et commander, bound from. Panama to Guaquil. There were on board about forty passengers, among whom was Don Juan Cardosa, going to take upon him the command of Baldivia, of which place he had been appointed governor. On the 7th they anchored about a cable's length from the shore, on the east side of the Island of Gorgona, and on the 8th the boats of the Duke and Duchess seized a bark of fiiieen tons burthen, called the Golden Sun, with ten Spaniards and Indians on board, toge- ther with a few negroes. She had no cargo except a small quantity of gold dust, and a large gold chain, with which they were going to Gua- quil to purchase salt and brandy. On the 9th, in the evening, a council of all the officers, except Captain Rogers, who was indisposed, was held on board tho Duchess, wherein, after the prisoners had been examined, it was resolved, from the accounts given of its situation and advantages, to steer for the Island of Malaga, where they designed to leave their ships in a safe road, and then row up the river in their boats, till enabled to surprise some canoes, with which they might more effectually stem the tides of the river. In these canoes they were to proceed to the golden mines of Barbacore, or Juan, where they expected to find a considerable booty, the Spaniards in that neighbourhood having no kind of intelligence that an enemy was so near. As Captain Rogers had previously agreed to yield his assent to what- ever should be determined on, they made sail for Malaga about twelve o'clock the same night ; but when acquainted with the result of their deliberations, he determined to discourse with Mr. Morel, and some other of the prisoners, of whose knowledge respecting the place of their destination he was well assured. These informed him, that whoevei advised the council to those measures now intended to be pursued, either WOODES ROGERS. 121 designed to ruin them, or were totally unacquainted with the affair ; for the Island of Malaga was not only unfrequented and barren, but the road extremely narrow and full of shoals ; that if the ships got over, which could only be affected at spring tides, there was the utmost danger of their being run ashore. They likewise said, the banks of the river all the way up to St. Juan were well inhabited by a race of people strongly attached to the Spaniards, who would take all possible measures to annoy an enemy, particularly by their poisoned arrows, from the covert of the woods ; and that the channel was so narrow, that by felling trees across, they might effectually prevent the retreat of invaders, and cut them to pieces. The captain was so strongly affected with this information, and saw the danger to which they were about to expose themselves in so clear a light, that he immediately sent for Captains Courtney and Cook, and acquainting them with what he had heard, they immediately changed their course, in order to return to Gorgona, where it was determined to careen and (it up the Havre de Grace as a twenty gun ship, to be commanded by Captain Cook, and manned out of the Duke and Duch- ess, to act as a third consort. Coming to an anchor on the 13th of June, near the shore of Gorgona, in forty fathoms water, and having held a committee, the Duchess was appointed to careen, and the Duke to lie on guard, lest they should be surprised by an enemy. The latter was also careened as soon as the forrner was turned out, so that in about a fortnight they were again in prime order for sailing, to the great asto- nishment of the Spaniards, who declared that the same operation on one of the king's ships, at Lima, usually took up six weeks, though they had all kinds of necessaries, and artificers ready to give their assistance. The business which chiefly engaged them from the 29th of June to the 9th of July, was fitting out the Havre de Grace, which being com- pletely finished, they gave her the name of the Marquis. A good enter- tainment being provided, they saluted each of the other ships with three huzzas from on board her, distributed liquor among the company, drank thfi healths of her majesty and their owners, and to their own joint suc- cess. There were sent on board her two of the main-deck guns of the Duke and two of the Duchess, which, with four taken at Guaquil, and twelve already in her, made twenty good ones, the carriages all new, or so well repaired as to be as strong and good as if mounted in England. Her compliment of men was sixty-one, besides twenty negroes ; the captain, officers, and men, were to be. allowed the same wages as those in the other ships. The next thing of importance appeared to be getting rid of the prisoners, who began to be a great burthen, and were of no use. In a committee held on the 9th, it was agreed that Captain Dover, Mr. Fry, and Mr. Stratton, with forty-five sailors under their command, should have the care of transporting them to the continent, which was immediately put in practice. The two Morels, Don Antonio, and Don Juan Cardosa, were dismissed among the rest, and at their departure appeared to be highly satisfied with the treatment they had met with ; and the latter, in particular, was very ready to acknowledge this, as he had been once very ill used by a Jamaica privateer, which he had fallen in with not far from Porto Bello. On the 18th, a negro, who had been bit by a speckled snake, died in less than twelve hours, notwithstanding the utmost exertion of the sur- geon's skill to save his life. There are great abundance of these snakes on Gorgona, some of which are three or four vards long, and as thick as 11 122 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. a man's leg. They are of an amphibious nature ; and one having on the same day conveyed himself on board the ship, by the help of the cable, was killed upon the forecastle by the men. On the 20th and 21st, two canoes came on board to trade, bringing with them money, limes, fowls, and other provisions. Next day five of the negroes belonging to the ship hid themselves in the woods, with a view of deserting to the Spaniards as soon as their masters had left the station ; but, one being retaken the same day, was severely punished ; and three more being forced by hunger to quit their asylum, were taken two days afterward. On the 27th the two Morels came on board again, with what money they could raise, and told the captains, the country beuig much alarmed, it was with great difficulty they had obtained leave to come to them ; that the Governor of Barbacore, with 200 men, was at the water- side to prevent trading, and to hinder their landing ; and all the coast lined with men assembled for the same purpose. A committee was held on board the Duke, in which it was agreed to distribute rewards to those who had most distinguished themselves : when Mr. James Stratton was allowed forty rupees : William Davis and Der- rick Derrickson had twenty rupees each, (a rupee is about the value of half a crown ;) the boat's crew that engaged the Marquis, when taken, had two bales of baize, one of serges, and one of linen, to be sold by them when and where they should think proper ; and to each of the men who went up the river beyond Guaquil, a suit of clothes was given. These rewards, over and above the respective shares of each man, were given to encourage them to behave gallantly for the future ; but, notwith- standing the generosity shown by the commanders on this occasion, a dangerous mutiny was set on foot a few days afterward, which might have proved of a very fatal consequence, had it not been discovered by the steward of the Duchess. He accidentally overheard the ringleaders holding a council on the manner in which they should proceed ; above sixty had signed articles, by which they bound themselves to stand by one another till they had obtained what they called justice, with respect to the plunder, which they imagined had not been fairly distributed. Four of the principal promoters of this destructive scheme, among whom was the person who had drawn up the articles, were immediately se- cured in irons ; but upon expressing their sorrow for the crime, asking pardon, and promising to behave better for the future, were soon after- ward set at liberty. The captains thought it most prudent to proceed in a mild manner : for to have punished a few with great severity, when so many were concerned, might have been attended with very disagreeable cousequences. After this, affairs began to move once more in their proper channel. In a council of the principal officers of the three ships, held on board the Duchess, on the 6th of August, they bound themselves by an oath never to part company while there was a possibiUty of keeping together. On the 7th it was agreed to give up to Messrs. Morel and Navarre their respective ships, and such goods as were not worth carrying away, to- gether with some negroes, which was done accordingly. With regard to the effects in the bark, they agreed with M. Navarre for 12,000 pieces of eight, which, with 3,000 that remained for the ransom of Guaquil, he was to bring to ihem at Manta within twelve days. Captain Cook now valued the money and plate on board, for the use of the owners, at .€20,000, and the goods at £60,000. Among the prisoners on board N?Tarre's ship, were several ladies who, at their departure, acknowledged WOODES ROGERS. 123 the civility with which they had been treated, which they said had much exceeded what the English would have recieved from their countrymen on a similar occasion. The Island of Gorgona lies in 3 degrees north latitude ; it is three leagues in length, lying north-east and south-west, very narrow, and about six leagues from the continent. It is full of wood and tall trees, one of which, called Palma-Maria, is proper for masts ; and from this tree issues a balsam efficacious in several diseases. The island, at a di3t^nce, ap- pears like three little hills ; and along the north side there is riding for ships ; but in some places foul ground and shoals near the shore. Some of the Duke's people caught here an ugly creature, supposed to be of the monkey kind ; it in some degree resembled one of those animals, only with hair thicker and longer ; its face, eyes, and nose were less, and more wrinkled and deformed ; its ears were not so large, its teeth longer and sharper ; its hinder parts more clumsy ; its body thicker in propor- tion ; its tail very short ; besides, instead of five claws, like fingers, which 'a monkey has, this animal has only three on each paw, which are sharper and longer. On letting this animal loose at the lower part of the mizzen- shrouds, it was two hours in getting to the mast-head, which a monkey would have performed in less than half a minute. It walked an equal and slow pace, as if all its movements had been directed by clock-work. The Spaniards with great propriety call it a Sloth, and say it feeds on the leaves of a certain lofty tree, which when it has cleared, before it can get down, walk to, and climb another, it becomes lean, and is almost starved. Their business at Gorgona being finished, they sailed thence on the 17th of August, and on the lOlh Captain Rogers proposed to send the Marquis to Brazil, to dispose of her cargo of prize goods and get fresh provisions, while the Duke and Duchess should continue in their present latitude, in expectation of the Manilla ship ; but his proposal was reject- ed by the majority. On the 12th found themselves only thirteen leagues off Gorgona, bearing south and by east. On the 18th the Duchess took a bark of seventy tons burthen, bound from Panama to Lima; she had nothing valuable on board, but twenty-four negroes, from whom they learned that the whole coast was alarmed with their being in the South Seas, and that ever since their taking of Guaquil, the inhabitants were in the utmost apprehensions of a visit. The two barks first entered the Bay of Tecames on the 25th of August, and the consort ships anchored near them in a few hours afterward. It was at this place that Sir Francis Drake took the valuable plate prize in 1578. Just as it grew dark, Mr. "White, the linguist, having ventured ashore without orders with a Spanish prisoner, had like to have suffered for his rashness ; for landing opposite some houses, several Indians at- tacked them from an ambuscade with fire-arms, bows, arrows, and lances, though they called out in Spanish, and said they were friends. They had the happiness, however, to escape being shot, hiding themselves all right in the wood, while the people on board imagined they were either killed or taken prisoners ; but, at break of day, they ventured to call again on the Indians, whom they prevailed on to trade, provided they could obtain the consent of their padre, who lived at six leagues distance The linguist informed them there was a padre on board, whom they desired to «ee ; on which he was sent on shore, and wrote a letter to the priest of the place, informing him how extremely well hunself and the other Spa- nish prisoners were used, and earnestly recommending a trade. Through the mediation of this friar, they promised that they would trade with 124 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. them the next day, whether the padre gave his consent or not ; and the Indians having accepted of a present of three images of saints, and a feathered cap, to be given to the wife of their chief, they washed off tho red paint with which they had daubed themselves, and wiiich, while they wear, is to be considered as a declaration of war ; and then they sent Captain Rogers a present of several bows and arrows. VVhen the boat returned with the priest to the ship, he took with him one of the Indians, who entered it with a look of astonishment, and being much pleased with the great cabin, laid himself down on his side, gazing wildly about for an hour together, till Captain Rogers, having given him some old baize lor clothing, a few toys, and a dram of brandy, led hnn out, and he was taken on shore. At night a letter was received from the padre, allov;ing full permission to trade, and the next day they received hogs and black cattle in exchange for baize. The boats were now sent up a creek, laden with casks to be filled with fresh water, w^hen the peo- ple meeting by chance with one of the chiefs of the Indians, who was painted and armed with bows and arrows, he advised them to go highei* up the river, or they would find the water brackish. For this kind advice they offered him a dram out of a quart bottle of strong brandy, but taking hold of the bottle, he drank the greater part of it at once, and departed extremely well pleased, assuring them they should be supplied from the village with whatever they wanted. The boats having brought a consi- derable quantity of water, plantains, hogs, black cattle, and other provi- sions, and the ships being heeled and cleaned, they set the priest on shore, giving him, by way of acknowledgment, a black female slave, of whom he appeared to be more fond than became liis character. They also sent to the friar or priest of the village, in return for his kindness, a male negro and a piece of baize. They now put all their prisoners into an unrigged bark, leaving them at liberty to run her on shore at high water, keeping with them only two of the hostages, detained on account of the ransom of Guaquil not being fully paid ; and these they determined to carry to England. The village of Tecames lies in a boitom, close to the water-side, and consists only of seven houses and a church ; the houses are built with split bamboos, covered with palmetto leaves, and raised upon posts, with hog-sties be- neath them, and they ascend to them by the help of pieces of wood notched, instead of stairs. The inhabitants are barbarous and resolute, using fire-arms and poisoned arrows in tiieir engagement, and are great adepts at bush fighting. There is no dealing with them by compulsive methods, and whoever is under the necessity of touching on this coast, must endeavour to make them friends by gentle methods. The women carry their children at their backs, and have no covering but a piece of baize tied about their waist. A land-breeze generally springs up about midnight, at south and by east, which dies away about noon ; and in the afternoon a sea-breeze comes on, which continues at west and west-south- west till midnight. From January till May they have light showers to the northward, but from Jnne to December the weather is generally dry. The three consort ships made one of the Gallapagos islands on the 10th of September, where they continued for a week, taking in turtle and salt, of both which there is great plenty. The Spaniards reckon fifty of these islands, only one of which yields fresh water. They abound as well with sea as land-birds ; and the latter are hawks and turtle-doves, which are so tame as to suffer themselves to be knocked down with a stick. The seals are so fierce as to attack any who happens to coiue in their WOODES ROGERS. 125 way, which Captain Rogers experienced : being on shore, one of the animals advanced to him with all the rage of an incensed mastiff dog ; the captam defended himself by sticking a pile he had in his hand into the creature's breast, on which he retired a little, and then advanced again, till he had recieved three several wounds, when he retreated to the sea, snarling and showing his long teeth above the water. While they remained here, ten negroes being sent on shore to cut firing, seven of tliem deserted, into the woods. They sailed on the 17th of September, and on the 4th of October came up with the islands called Tres Marias, where they remained till the 24th, to take in wood and water and catch turtle : but it was not without difficulty that they found a stream that was wholesome. All the springs which they met with, two only excepted, out of which they supplied themselves, being not only bitter, but violent purgatives, occasioned by some neighbouring minerals of bitter roots. Quitting these islands on the 25th of October, on the 1st of November, being in latitude 22 degrees 55 minutes, discovered the land of California, about eight leagues distant. On the I7th some Indians were discovered at a distance on a bark-log, who paddled toward them : they were at first afraid to approach, but were at length prevailed upon by a present of a knife and some baize, for which they returned two live foxes, two blad- ders of water, and some deer' skins. These people were quite naked, and strangers to the European manner of trafficking. Some of the crew ventured on shore on bark-logs, for the sea ran too high to attempt land- ing in the boats. The good-natured natives leaped into the sea to guide the bark-logs in the best manner they were able. On making the shore, the Indians led each of the English up the bank, where was an old man, with a deer's skin spread on the ground, on which they kneeled before the English, who also kneeling, the Indians wiped the water off the faces of the English with their hands. This ceremony being ended, each of the sailors, supported by two of the savages, was led through a narrow path, of about a quarter of a mile in length, to their huts, where they were welcomed by the music of a very uncouth instrument, being only two jagged sticks, which an Indian rubbed across each other, and accompanied the noise with a voice still more inharmonious than the sound of the instrument. They then all sat down on the ground, and having been regaled with broiled fish, the In- dians attended them back in the same manner with their music ; presenting them with knives made of shark's teeth, and several other little curiosi- ties, and permitting them to share in all they had, except their women, children, and arms. Above 200 people inhabited the place where they landed, and lived in huts made of boughs of trees, and leaves erected in the form of bowers, with a fire before the door, round which they lay anJ slept. The men are straight, well built, have long black hair, and are of a dark brown complexion. They live by hunting and fishing, and have a greater esteem for European scissors, nails, and knives, than for silver or gold. They use bows and arrows, and are such excellent marksmen, as to be able to shoot a small bird flying. Their bows are made of a hard, yet pliant wood, and are about six feet in length ; the string is made of silk grass, and the arrov/s, which are four feet and a half long, are made of a jointed cane, with four long feathers about a foot from the notch for the string : at the other end is fixed a piece of hard wood, point- ed with a sharp taper flint. The women, whose features are rather disa. 11* 12G VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD- greeable, are employed in making fishing lines, or in gathering grain, which ihey grind upon a stone. They were willing to assist the English in filling water, and would supply them with whatever they could get : they were a very honest people, and would not take the least thing with- * out permission. In the Bay of Puerto Seguro there are great numbers of albacores, mullets, dolphins, bream, and other fish, which the natives are extremely expert at striking with wooden instruments from their floats, which are made of five pieces of wood, and are moved with short paddles. From these floats they would often leap, and strike th^ fish when near the bottom of the water. They also dive and fetch up pearl oysters from the rocks. Some of the sailors informed Captain Rogers they saw one of them dive with instruments, and while he was under water, put up his striker with a fish upon the point of it, which was taken oflf by ano- ther, who attended his motions on a bark-log. This the captain was the rather induced to believe, because he himself had thrown some rusty knives overboard on purpose to try the skill of these excellent divers ; and they seldom missed catching the knife before it was more than three or four fathoms under water. By this time they all began to despair of taking the Manilla ship, it being a month beyond her usual time of passing that way ; till, on the 21st of December, aboiit nine in the morning, the man at the mast-head cried out he saw a sail, at the distance of seven leagues ; but, as they had little wind, did not come up with her till the next day, when Captain Rogers, having no spirituous liquors on board, ordered a large kettle of chocolate to be made for the ship's company, and, after prayers, began the engagement. The Duchess being considerably to leeward, the ene- my fired her stern-chase first, which the Duke returned with her fore- chase ; and then getting close on board her, gave her several broadsides, at the same time plying their small arms very briskly, which the Spa- niards for a while returned, and then struck her colours just as the Duchess had come up, and fired five guns and a volley of small shot. They then sent the pinnace on board the enemy, and brought the captain, with the officers, away ; having examined them, found that a larger ship had come out of Manilla at the same time, but she being a better sailer, had parted company three months before. The Spaniards in this en- gagement lost nine men, and had several wounded. On the part of the English, one man was Vvounded, besides Captain Rogers, who received a shot through the left cheek, which carried away a great part of his up- per jaw and several of his teeth, some of which dropped on the deck where he feh. This prize was called Nuestra Senora de la Incarnation, commanded by Sir John Pichberty, a gallant Frenchman ; and the pri- soners said that the cargo in India amounted to 3,000,000 of dollars, slffe carried 193 men, and mounted twenty guns. On Christmas day the Duches sand Marquis went out of the harbour to cruise for the great Manilla ship ; and on the same day two sentinels were posted on the top of a hill, from whence they had a good view of the sea, with instructions that if they saw three sail of ships in the off- ing, they should wave their colours three times. On the 26th, in the afternoon, the sentries made three wafts, on which they instantly put all the prisoners, amounting to 170, on board the bark, without arms, rudder, sails, or a boat ; and leaving twenty-two hands to guard them, Captain Rogers, who was still in a very weak condition, got under sail at seven in the evening, and continued the chase all night and next day ; but ha WOODES ROGERS. 137 ving little wind, did not come up with them till the day after ; and, as the other sliips had engaged the enemy several times in the interim, the Marquis was by this time disabled. He, however, instantly engaged, and the attack was frequently renewed, till a chest of arms and cartoach box took fire, and all the three ships were damaged : when.it was determined, considering the number of the enemy's men and the force of the ship, to pursue her no farther. In this bloody engagement the English lost many of their men, and Captain Rogers was again wounded, having the heel-bone of his left foot taken off by a splinter. Thus ended the fruit- less attempt on this large ship ; after which they returned to the harbour of Puerto Seguro, spending some days in refitting and taking in wood and water. For some time past, they had been at short allowance of bread, but had the happiness to find such a quantity on board the Manilla ship, which they had taken, as, with their former stock, they hoped would serve them in the long run which they intended to take across the South Sea. On the 1st of January, the bark, with Captain Pichberty, the hos- tages, absolute necessity for procuring a supply of provisions to prevent them from starving, not having, at the shortest allowance, bread and flour suffi- cient for fourteen days, they determined, if possible, to get some of the inhabitants on board and detain them as hostages, in case they should be under tke necessity of sending any of their people to the governor. In consequence of this resolution, they seized two Spaniards, who hailed them, and came on board, on a supposition that the English came from New Spain. They detained one of these by way of hostage, and sent two linguists ashore with the other, who carried a letter to the governor pf the place, in which they demanded liberty to deal, in a peaceable man- 128 VOYAOESf ROUND THE WORLD. ner, for provisions and refreshments, for which they promised not only to pay immediately, but to behave in all other respects in a friendly man- ner ; and threatened, if the request was refused, they would act openly as enemies, a proceeding which, however, they wished rather to avoid. On the 11th, in the morning, the Duke's pinnace was sent on shore with a flag of truce ; and the islanders behaved with the utmost friend- ship to the crew, promising to supply them plentifully with provisions, provided the governor would give permission. About noon a letter was brought on board by the linguists, accompanied by three Spanish gentle- men, in which the governor obligingly promised to accommodate them with whatever the island produced. A suitable answer to this obliging letter was immediately sent to his excellency, signed by all the captains, expressing their own thanks and those of the crews foar hi& polite and friendly oifer. On the 13th, each ship was supplied with a bullock, be- sides limes, oranges, cocoa nuts, and other fruits ; and an entertainment provided on board the Batchelor for several Spanish gentlemen, at which all the officers of the several ships were present, not excepting Captain tain Rogers, who was unable to go on board without being hoisted up and down in a chair. On the morning of the 16th, several of the officers went in the pinnace, to dine with the governor on shore, agreeable to in- vitation. On their landing, they were received by 200 men drawn up in order, while the clergy and other principal people of the island attended to conduct them to the governor's house, which, considering its situation^ is a very noble building. They were here treated with the utmost friend- ship and respect, treated with at least sixty different dishes, and, when they departed, were saluted with a volley of small arms. In return for these civilities, they made the governor a present of twenty yards of scar- let serge, six pieces of cambric, and two negro boys, dressed in liveries. The Island of Guam is about forty leagues in circumference ; the anchoring place is on the west side, and about the middle there is^ a hrge cove, with several houses, built in the Spanish fashion, with accommo- dations for the officers and crew of the Acapulco ship ; the settlement here having been made on purpose for that ship to refresh, and take in necessaries in her passage to Manilla. On this, and the neighbouring islands, are about 300 Spaniards, who have converted most of the na- tives to the Roman Catholic religion. There were at this time eight priests, six of whom kept schools, besides performing their offices as clergymen. T"hey had schools also taught by mulattoes and Indians, who had attained to a knowledge af the Spanish language, which is un- derstood by most of the natives. The island, which is full of hills, val- leys, and streams of good water, produces oranges, lemons, citrons, muskmelons, and watermelons, which were originally brought thither by the Spaniards, besides the bread fruit, the cocoa nut, and other fruits natural to the soil and climate. Of the exotics, oranges in particular thrive vory well. The native Indians are strong and tall, and go naked, except a kind of clout worn by the men, and a shoit petticoat by the women, round their middle. The men burn small lumps of clay, of an oval form, till they are as hard as marble, which they are extremely dexterous at sling- ing ; and the Spaniards say, that they seldom miss hitting a mark, and throw with such force as to kill a man at a considerble distance. The most remarkable thing on the island is the bread fruit, which resembles an orange, and when ripe is about three times as big. The leaves are of a brown CQlour, about as large, and not unlike thQse of the fig tre^. WOODES ROGERS. 129 The people have no other weapons but a stick or lance, which is made of the heaviest wood that grows on the island. The governor made Captain Rogers a present of one of their flying proas, which the Spa- niards said would run twenty leagues in an hour ; this account was pro- bably exaggerated, but Captain Rogers says, that from what he saw, they may run twenty miles or more in that space of time ; for when the na- tives came in these vessels to take a view of the ships, they passed by thfim like a bird flying. t They got under sail from Guam on the 2lst of March, having first ta- ken in plenty of wood and water, and each ship received its proportion of provisions, which, in that commanded by Captain Rogers, amounted to sixty hogs, fourteen small bullocks, ninety-nine fowls, twenty-four baskets of Indian corn, forty-four baskets of yams, fourteen bags of rice, and 800 cocoa nuts. On the 14th of April, being in 23 degrees north latitude, they came so near to three water spouts, that one of them had like to have broke over the Marquis ; but it was happily dispersed by two shots from the Duchess. Soon afterward the Marquis and the Batchelor received considerable damage in their rigging by a violent storm, which lasted four or five days ; and these vessels being both but indifferent sailers, were a considerable hindrance to the voyage, which was rendered very fatiguing to the crew of the Duke, who were con- tinually obliged to ply their pumps, on account of having sprung a leak, which at present they had no opportunity of stopping. Having coasted for several days along the high-lands of New Guinea, they, on the 25th of May, made Bouton, to whiclu island the Duke and Duchess imme- diately sent their pinnaces, which soon returned with plenty of cocoa nuts, and reported the inhabitants, who spoke the Malayan tongue, were civil and hospitable. At this ticne they endeavoured in vain to find ground proper to anchor in, though the Duke sounded with a line of eighty fathoms, and run her bowdprit almost on shore. In the interim the inhabitants came off in canoes, bringing with them fowls, Indian corn, cocoa nuts, pompions, &c., which they exchanged for goods with the sailors. Captain Rogers sent some of the officers in the yawl and pinnace to land, where the king and his nobility received them in a very hospitable manner, and promised they should be supplied with such neces- Karies as the place aflforded. His majesty and all his attendants were bare-footed, and had no other covering than a cloth wrapped round the middle. After sounding for three or four days, as they cruised round the head lands, they at length got anchoring ground in between thirty and forty fathoms water, and the Duke and Duchess came to their moorings. About this time the Duke's boat, which had been sent on shore, returned with some Malays in a canoe, who, by presents, had been prevailed upon to come on board ; but these people were of no use, there being no person on board who could understand them ; and Captain Dover, who had a linguist, refused to lend him, notwithstanding the evident necessity of the case. Neither would the Malays be prevailed upon to go on board the Batchelor, she being in danger of running on the shoals, though Cap tain Rogers treate I them with sweetmeats ; but, on their quitting the Duke, they made signs, pointing to the land which lay to the northward, which they called Bootoo. Captain Dampier having formerly been through the straits of Bouton, was examined respecting his knowledge of the place, but he seemed to remember very little of it. However, on the 29th of May it was agreed to send him, together with Mr. Vanburgb, 130 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD Mr. Connelly, and the linguist, by way of deputation to the king, de- siring a supply of provisions, for which they v/ould very readily pay. His majesty received these gentlemen in a courteous manner, and seemed pleased with the samples shown him of such goods as they chose to ex- change for provisions ; and was exceedingly delighted with a bishop's miire, sent him as a present. The inhabitants now began to flock on board, bringing fowls, Indian corn, and cocoa nuts, to exchange with the English, but they demanded too high a price for them. On the 1st of June Dampier returned from the town in the pinnace, bringing a mysterious account of the proceedings on shore, and a small quantity of provisions, as a present to the captains ; but the two other -officers remained behind, to despatch what they could agree for. Several of the inhabitants, with a Portuguese linguist, came from the town next day, under pretence of looking at the goods and carrying samples to the king ; but Captain Rogers and the rest of the gentlemen began to be afraid, by their thus trifling, that they should get nothing of them at last ; and, therefore, sent the Duchess's pinnace to hurry away the officers as fast as possible, with what provisions they had got. The country ptcple bad pretty well supplied them by the 4th, and, therefore, they were determined to waste no more time in that place, but sail immediately for Batavia. On the 5th Mr. Connelly returned in the pinnace, and informed them the king wished to compel them to take a quantity of provisions at an exorbitant price, and meant to detain Mr. Vanburgh till the money was paid. The same day several of the nobility came on board with four lasts of rice and a cask of arrack, which was immediately agreed for. As soon as they were departed, the Portuguese linguist came to dispose of some provisions of his own ; but as he brought no news of the English on shore, a suspicion began to arise that some mischief was intended ; and, therefore, determined to keep him till the boat returned. They the rather chose to fix on him, as he was of such use to the king in all com- mercial matters that he could not possibly be spared ; but the Portuguese, being apprehensive of their design, got out of the ship into his own canoe, rowing away as fast as possible, till overtaken by the yawl. On this all the people who worked in the canoe jumped into the sea, but were taken np by the Duchess's pinnace, and the linguist was once more brought on board, where, finding himself likely to be detained, he despatched his eanoe to the king, desiring that the English might be immediately dis- missed. Upon this, Mr. Vanburgh and the sailors with him came on board on the 7th, having parted with the king in a very friendly manner ; but he could not prevail upon his majesty to furnish them with a pilot to conduct them through the straits, at any rate. On Mr. Vanburgh's coming on board the linguist was immediately dismissed. The Island of Bouton is near thirty leagues in length, and is situated in 5 degrees ^0 minutes south latitude. The inhabitants say, that all the adjacent islands are subject to their king, who can raise 50,000 men. They are well made people, of the middle size, have very indifferent features, and a dark olive complexion. They speak the Malay language, and profess the Mahometan religion, of which, however, they know very little, except bathing, abstaining from swine's flesh, and having a number of wives. The only spice produced on this island is a few nutmegs ; and the inhabitants are not afraid of the Dutch, against who.m their po- verty is a sufficient security. They weighed anchor from the Island of Bouton on the 8th of J'jne, and the next day came up with a vessel bound for Macassar, a Dutch WOODES ROGERS. 131 settlement on the south part of Celebes. The master, who was a Malay, promised to pilot them not only through the straits, but even to Batavia, for a small gratuity, provided it was kept secret from the Dutch ; and the captain readily agreed lo his demands, this being a happy incident in their favour, as thereby they avoided several dangerous shoals, the shunning of which properly is best known to the Holland traders. On the 17th, hailed a Dutch ship, of 600 tons, and fifty guns, by whom they were in- formed that Prince George of Denmark was dead, and that the powers of Europe were still at war. On the 20th, entered the road of Batavia, and came to an anchor in about six fathoms water, among upward of thirty sail of ships. Two days afterward the captains waited on the governor, who, having examined and approved of their commission as private ships- of-war, promised them all possible assistance, but was not over scrupulous in keeping his- word ; for it was a considerable time before they could obtain leave to careen their vessels ; but, at length, on the 23d of July, they hove-down upon Horn Island. They were obliged to buy provisions at most extravagant prices, and though having an audience with the go- vernor was unnecessary on several occasions, they could never obtain it without bribing his guards and secretary, nor was it always that even this method was efficacious. Indeed, this is the case at almost all the Dutch settlements, where the chief people treat the captains of the English ships as enemies, while they receive them with all the outward appear- ance of friendship. Horn Island being a very inconvenient place to careen at, the com- manders petitioned the governor for leave to perform that business at Unherst, which is the place where the Dutch careen their vessels ; but this was a favour they could not on any terms obtain, nor even the as- sistance of the Dutch carpenters ; so that they were compelled to employ- eight or ten Malay carpenters. That the government might complete their oppressive measures, they absolutely forbade any of the people to pur- chase the Marquis, which the captains had agreed to sell ; so that they were obliged to part with her to the first English bidder, who happened to be Captain Opey, of the Oley frigate, from London, who bought her at the low price of 575 Dutch dollars. Durmg this stay at Batavia, Captain Rogers, who recovered his health but very slowly, had a musket shot cut out of his cheek, which the surgeon had hitherto mistaken for a piece of his broken jaw, and had also several splinters extracted from his heel. Several of the men were here carried off by tiuxes, which the water of this island is apt to occasion ; and yet they took care to correct its ill qualities with a sufficient quantity of arrack and sugar, the last article of which they purchase at one penny per pound, and the other at eight pence the gallon. The officers and men having supplied themselves with such necessaries as they wanted, and a proper stock of provisions being laid in, they left Batavia on the 12th of October, and sailed for the Cape of Good Hope. On the 17th, having taken in wood and water at Java Head, within Prince's Island, they proceeded on their voyage, and came to an anchor in the cape harbour on the 28th orf December. The English saluted the Dutch fort with nine guns ; which compliment was returned with seven. At this place they waited for the convoy of the Dutch fleet to Europe till the begmning of April, and though Captaui Rogers strongly opposed tnis delay, a majority of the committee of officers carried it against him. On the 5th of April the Dutch admiral hoisted a blue flag, and loosed his fore-topsail, as a signal to unmoor ; and the next day the whole fleet, 132 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLP. consisting of sixteen Dutch and nine English ships, sailed with a fresh breeze at south-south-east. Captain Rogers remarks, that during the whole voyage from the eape to Holland, the most exact discipline was observed by the fleet, and the utmost respect paid to the admiral, though he only commanded a trading vessel, which had been to the East Indies on the Dutch East India con^ipany's account. This admiral is represented as a man of great abilities and good nature, and particularly .respectful to the English, frequently entertaining the captains on board his own ship. On the 23d of July they arrived in the Texel, on which the Dutch fired all their guns, and the English complimented the admiral with several rounds of cannon. In the afternoon of the 24th, Captain Rogers went up to Amsterdam to buy provisions for the ship, and transact other necessary business. They sailed from the Texel on the 22d of September, and on the 2d of October, 1711, came to the moorings in the Downs, where some of their owners came on board to congratulate them on their safe arrival. CAPTAIN JOHN CLIPPERTON.— 1719-22. About the beginning of the year 1718, some English merchants, fore- seeing it could not be long before there would be war between England and Spain, resolved to fit out two ships for the South Seas, in hopes they might make as successful a voyage as the Duke and Duchess, under the command of Captain Rogers. Two ships were accordingly provided, one called the Success, the other the Speedwell. The command of the former was given to Captain Clipperton, who had been with Dampicr ; and Captain Shelvock, formerly lieutenant in the royal navy, was ap}>ointed to command the latter, having under him, as second captain, Mr. Simon Hatley, the same person whom Captain Woodes Rogers lost among the Gallapagos islands, and who was a prisoner among the Spaniards for a considerable time afterward. The instructions the captains received were, to proceeds immediately to Plymouth, and to sail thence with the first fair wind for Cape Horn, or the straits of Magellan, and then, either to double the cape, or pass through the straits, as should be most conve- nient. After this, to sail into the South Seas, cruise on the coast of Chili, Peru, and Mexico, and endeavour to meet the Acapulco ship. To be careful, above all things, not to seperale from each other ; to under- take nothing of importance without holding a council of officers, stating the question in writing that was to be debated, drawing up the resolution, with the reasons upon which it was grounded, in concise terms, and obliging every officer present to sign it. They were also to call a council in the same manner, as soon as possible, after any action had happened, or any prize of consequence taken, in which the conduct of the officers concerned might be examined, and a true judgment of it immediately passed, which was to be subscribed by the persons assisting at the council. At length, on the 13th of February, 1719, they sailed from Plymouth with a fair wind, but the whole stock of wine, brandy, and other liquors, for the use of both ships, was still on board the Speedwell ; and how fatal a mistake it was not to divide it before this lime will soon appear. On the 15i,h, had squally weather with rain ; in the evening, unbent the best and small bowers in the Success, stowed their anchors, and found them- selves often obliged to shorten sail for the Speedwell. Captain Shelvock came this day under the lee of the Success, and complained to Captain Chpperton of the crankness of his ship, which proceeded from having JOHN CLIPPERTON. 133 too much weight aloft ; and, therefore, desired him to send for his wine and brandy, which would give him an opportunity of striking down some of his guns into the hold. This was not done, which, if it is a proof of Captain Clippcrton's negligence, is also a proof he had no suspicion of Shelvock's leaving him, and that, on his part, he had no intention to de- sert the Speedwell. Between nine and ten o'clock at night, on the 19th, there arose a fresh breeze, so as to oblige both ships to take in their topsails. The gale increasing, the Success made a signal for the Speedwell to bring-to, which Shelvock readily obeyed, and by seven o'clock both ships were under bare poles, nor able to bear a rag of canvass during the night. On the 20th, about two in the afternoon, the storm abated, when Clipperton made sail, steering south and by east, whereas Shelvock stood away to the north- west, so that from this day they never saw each other till they met by accident in the South Seas. Here, then, properly begins the history of the former's voyage round the world in the Success. The Canaries being the first place appointed for a rendezvous, he sailed thither with such expedition as to arrive on the 5th of March, and having taken on board refreshments, continued, agreeable to his instruc- tions, to cruise in that station fOr ten days, in hopes of seeing his con- sort. Being disappointed, he determined to continue his voyage, lest he should miss her at the next place of reridezvous, which was the Cape de Verde islands, and accordingly left Gomera on the 15th, in order to be early at his ne.'it station. On the 21st, in the evening, they saw St. Vincent, one of the Cape de Verdes, and next morning anchored in the bay. They remained here ten days, in hopes of meeting their consort, but in vain, which so dis- couraged the crew, that Captain Clipperton found it no easy matter to engage them to continue the voyage. These islands, which the Dutch call the Salt islands, from the great quantities of it found there, were discovered by the Portuguese in the year 1572. They are ten in number, viz , St. Jago, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, St. Antonio, St. Nicholas, Blanca, De Sal, Maio, De Fogo, arrd Bonavista. They extend from the Green Cape 160 leagues into the sea. On the 29th of May, found themselves in 52 degrees 15 minutes south latitude, being off Cape Virgin Mary, the north point of the entrance of the straits of Magellan ; and the next day entered the straits, and sail- ing up as far as Queen Elizabeth's Island, sent their pinnace on shore to a fresh water river, which was at this time frozen up. On the 22d, atichored in a fine bay, which, from its depth, they called No-Bottom Bay : the trees on the shore of which were very high, and so loaded with snow as to atford an astonishing prospect. A canoe came otT on the 29th, with two men, a woman, and a boy ; they were of a middle stature and dark complexions ; their faces round, their foreheads low, their hair black, straight, and short ; and they had no clothing except a piece of skin about the waist. They had a remark- able fine streak, of a bright blue colour, round their wrists ; and the men were so extremely jealous, that they could by no means be prevailed on to let the women go on board. They brought wild geese and ducks, wiiich were e.xchangeJ for knives, and had a fire in the middle of their canoe, the latter being built of the bark of trees sewed together. They bad also with them bows and arrows, and implements for fishing. Or) the 20th of July some persons were sent in the pinnace, in order to make a discovery of a passage which a French Tartan is said to have 134 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. went through into the South Sea, in May, 1713 ; they returned on the 29th, having found the passage, but so narrow it was judged hazardous to attempt going that way. On the morning of the 1st of August, four officers went to look for this passage a second time. After the strictest examination, they could not find that it led into the South Seas ; and, even it it had, the passage was so contracted that the ship could not have gone through it. They, therefore, resolved to prosecute their voy- age through the straits, which, with much danger and difficulty, they at length accomplished, being all the way at short allowance. They arrived in the South Seas on the 18th of August, but in so weak a condition that it was impossible for them to undertake anything of consequence ; besides. Captain Clipperton was resolved, in pursuance to his instructions, to steer for the Island of Juan Fernandez, the third and last place appointed for a rendezvous. Here they cast anchor on the 7th of -September, and sent persons on shore to search for some testimony of the Speedwell's having been there, but met with no success. Cap- tain Clipperton, therefore, ordered an inscription to be cut on a remark- able tree, fronting the landing place ; so that it was impossible for any ship's crew to go on shore and not see it. The inscription ran thus : " Captain John W. Magee, 1719." This William Magee was sur- geon on board the Success, and was a person extremely well known to Captain Shelvock and all his ship's company. They took a great number of goats here, which not only served for present eating, but likewise to increase their sea-store, having an oppor- tunity of salting them from some French vessels which had lately touch- ed at the island, leaving a considerable quantity of salt, which they had made there, behind. They also took in wood and water, and repaired their ship for a cruise in the South Seas, where it v/as now apparent they were to act alone, and Captain Clipperton gave it as his opinion that the Speedwell was lost ; which, if not his real sentiments, he said so to pa- cify the sailors, some of whom, with their dying breaths, cursed Shelvock for running away with their liquors. The beauty and fertility of this island, compared with the difficulties they expected to encounter in the South Seas, tempted four of the men to run away from the ship and fly to the mountains. As they were in want of hands, and as it would have been inhuman to leave them behind, the captain gave orders to make diligent search for them, but for some time without effect. At length, the day before the ship was to leave the island, some of the officers went in the pinnace to look for these men, who had now been absent a fortnight ; and sailing round to the east part of the island, found two in custody of the goat hunters, who had met with them while in the pursuii of their game ; and who affirmed, that they had more difficulty in securing these fellows, than in killing double the number of goats, having been obliged to fire several times before they would surrender. The prisoners said, that for the first five days they were hard put to it, being obliged to subsist wholly on the cabbage trees, with which the island abounds; but having one night, by good fortune, discovered a fire left by the hunters, they dressed some meat by it, and ate plentifully. All the rest being on board and mustered, they prepared to sail on the 7th of October ; in the meantime, a person went on shore in the long- boat to erect a cross, which had been already cut for that purpose. At the foot of the cross a bottle was buried, in which was a letter directed for Captain Shelvock, appointing another place of rendezvous, and some signal by which they should know each other at sea. JOHN CLIPPERTON. 135 On the 8th of October, at eight o'clock in the morning, weighed from the Island of Juan Fernandez, leaving behind two of the deserters, whom they had not been able to find. On the 25th of October, chased a small vessel, which they soon came up with and took ; she proved, however, a very indifferent prize, being a snow of forty tons burthen, laden with sand and rubbish for manure ; but next day they met with a better prize in a ship called the St. Vincent, of 150 tons, laden with wood, from Gnaquil. On the 30th, took a large ship bound from Panama to Lima, called the Trinity, burthen 400 tons, and had been taken by Captain Rogers, when he plundered Guaquil, several years before ; she had many passengers on board, and her lading was of very considerable va- lue. On the 3d of November, took a vessel of seventy tons, on board of which was the Countess of Laguna and several other passengers, a great quantity of ready money, and upward of 400 jars of wine and brandy, articles they much wanted. The captain offered the countess her choice, to remain on board the prize, or to accept such accommodations as he was able to afford on board the Success ; and, as she preferred the former, he sent an officer of marines, with a guard, on board the prize, to prevent her being molested. On the 12lh, discovered a vessel at some distance, of 200 tons burthen, and bound from Panama to Lima, with a lading of wood, which, though of very little value to them, they took. On the 24th of November, took a prize of about 200 tons burthen, laden with wood, from Panama to Lima, having on board forty negroes, and thirty Spaniards, chiefly passengers. On the 27th, came to an an- chor with all the prizes at the Island La Plata, where the captain began seriously to consider how he should make the voyage turn out to the greatest possible advantage to his owners, as well as to himself and the ship's company. He knew the coast was alarmed, and had certain" in- telligence that two men-of-war, one of fifty and the other of thirty-four guns, were fitted out on purpose to take him. He had no expectation of getting the goods he had taken, ransomed, in that part of the world, and was sensible that they would prove of very little value if brought to England. He, therefore, determined to try a project which Captain Ro- gers had successfully practised before, that of sending a cargo of prize goods to Brazil ; and, accordingly, fitted out the bark in vv'hich he had taken the Countess of Laguna, mounted her with eight guns, and putting on board thirteen Englishmen and ten negroes, with what provisions and necessaries he could spare, he loaded her with a cargo valued at £10,000 and upward ; and on the 27th she sailed for Brazil, under the command of Captain Mitchell. Clipperton now sailed from La Plata, in order to cruise in his former station ; and on the 12th of December, about five in the evening, saw a sail, which he soon took ; she was called the Rosary, bound from Cher- rippe for Panama, laden with provisions. Next day the launch and pin- nace were employed in taking flour and other provisions from on board the prize ; and when they had taken as much out of her as they could well stow, cut her mainmast by the board, lest she should overset, and let her go. They continued to crui.se in this station, lying in toward the shore at night, and standing off all the day ; but met with no adventure till the 27th, when they anchored in Guanchaco Bay, where they found two ships at anchor, and fired a shot at each, but no return was made. They then sent their boats on board, but found the vessels abandoaed, and discovered that the lading had been just taken out. It was now resolved to bear away for the Gallapagos islands, in ©rder 136 VOYAGES ROUND TJIE WORLD. ' to refresh ; and accordingly, on the 9th of January, 1720, they anchored in York Road, on the north side of the Duke of York's Island, directly under the equinoctial line, where they found good water, scrubbed and cleaned their ship ; and, after a stay of ten days, left those islands, and sailed to the northward. They discovered a sail on the 21st of January, which they continued to chase till eleven o'clock at night, when they came up with her, and she struck on their firing a single gun* This ship was called the Prince Eugene, bound from Panama to Lima, having on board the Marquis de Villa Roche, who had been President of Panama, and all his family. On the 20th of April, anchored in the Gulf of Amapalla, with a view to have taken in water ; but, not being able to procure any, they steered to the Island of Tygers, where there was abundance. From this time till the 24th of June they met with no success ; but on that day took a prize, laden with timber and cocoa nuts: and on the 11th of August anchored, with their prize, at the Island of Lobos de la Mar. While here, a conspiracy, headed by the boatswain and another fellow, was formed for seizing the captain and the rest of the officers, and running away with the ship. The conspirators agreed to set all the officers on shore on the Island of Lobos ; and then, without distinction, to shoot every man who opposed their proceedings ; but the plot being discovered on the 6th of September, the two ringleaders were severely punished, and the rest pardoned, which put an end to the conspiracy. On the 1st of November, sailed for the Bay of Conception ; and in the passage took a ship, laden with tobacco, sugar, and cloth. They made the bay on the 6th, in the afternoon, where they saw three men-of-war, lying with their topsails loose, who no sopner discovered them than they cut their cables and stood in chase. At this time Captain Clipperton had one prize with him, which, as well as the Success, hauled close upon a wind ; on which the best sailer among the Spanish men-of-war gave chase to tl.e prize, which he soon came up with and took. The other ships crowded all the sail they could for some time, till the largest, having her raizzen-topmast carried away, fired a gun, tacked, and stood in for the shore, which gave the Success an opportunity of making her escape. In the Spanish prize Clipperton lost his third lieutenant, Mr. Milne, and twelve of his men. On the 16th, saw another sail, to which they gave chase, but after a few guns fired on both sides, she bore away and out-sailed them, perhaps a happy circumstance, as she was a ship of force fitted out to take Cap- tain Shelvock ; but the captain knowing this was not Shelvock's ship, and doubting her strength, was unwilling to engage her. They now continued cruising to the northward, not in search of plunder only, but provisions, particularly flour, of which they had none left, and were at this time reduced to an allowance of half a pound of Indian corn a day to each man. On the 4th of December found themselves very near the Gallapagos, and on the 6th sent the pinnace to discover an anchoring place near one of the islands, which returned without finding any, but reported they saw a great number of turtle on shore ; on which the pin- nace and yawl were sent to get some, and returned with fish sufficient to serve the whole ship's company a day. There being a prodigious surf they could not land, but kept plying on and off, till unwilling to lose raoro, time, they determined to steer for the Island of Cocos, where they hoped to get fresh provisions, which the number of sick people on board rendered very necessary. JOHN CLIPPERTON. 137 On the 17th, in the morning, had the satisfaction of seeing the Island of Cocos, at the distance of nine leagues to the north-west, which filled them with inexpressible joy ; and next day all who could with safety be spared from the ship, went on shore to build a large tent for the recep tion of the sick. Here they got plenty of fish, fowls, eggs, cocoa nuts, and other refreshments ; the captain opened the last jar of brandy, distributing to every man a dram a day ; and on New Year's day he allowed a gallon of strong beer to every mess ; so that by proper refresh- ments and ease the crew began to recover apace, and at lengih got their wood and water on board. On the 17th of January, 1721, the captain made the necessary dispositions for sailing ; but it was three days before he could get his people on board, and even then there were no less than eleven missing, viz., three Englishmen and eight negroes, who preferred an idle life in that solitary place, to the dread of the dangers and fatigues to which they were continually exposed on board. On the 25th of this month arrived on the coast of Mexico, where, dis- covering a sail about seven in the evening, they sent their pinnace to give chase, to whom she struck about eleven. On the return of the pinnace they had the surprising account, that this was a Spanish ship called the Jesu Maria, now commanded by Captain Shelvock, who gave the follow- ing account : that he had no more than forty of his men on board, the rest being all dead or dispersed ; that he had lost the Speedwell at Juan Fernandez, where they staid five months, and built a bark out of the wreck, with which they put to sea, and coasted along Chili and Peru, meeting several sliips, but could take nothing till they came to Pisco, near Lima, where they made this prize. There was, however, conside- rable difference in their accounts, and it appeared they had no regular command among them, but had chosen a quarter-master, and carried everything by a majority of votes ; so that they had entirely broken iheir articles with respect to their owners, and had shared what they had among themselves. At eight o'clock in the evening, Shelvock came on board, having been sent for by Captain Clipperton to give an account of his transactions. The latter still keeping to the northward, saw the Jesu Maria several times, but, in the beginning of the month of March, considering they had a fair opportunity of coming up with the Manilla ship before she entered Acapulco, the officers determined, the next time they saw Cap- tain Shelvock, to propose to him to make the attempt. On the 13th they discovered a sail, which from the signals appearing to be him, they brought-to, and the captain and his lieutenants came on board, when a general consultation was held, at which the officers be- longing to both ships agreed that the attempt should be made jointly, and that if happy enough to meet her, they should run her aboard at once, which they supposed to be their only chance of success. After this they cruised for her, and on the 15th Captain Clipperton held ano- ther consultation, in which the following proposals were agreed to, signed, and sent to Captain Shelvock : that if he and his crew would re- fund all the money shared among themselves contrary to the articles with the owners, and agree to put it into a joint stock, then all faults should be forgiven, both companies would unite and proceed to cruise for the Manilla ship. However, Shelvock and his people not caring to part with anything they possessed, declined giving any answer to this proposal. Captain Clipperton now finding that nothing was to be done with hi^ coadjutor, having waited till some days were elapsed, beyond 155* 138 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. the usual time of meeting with the Manilla ship, determined to go di- rectly to the East Indies. On the 1 3th of May anchored in the road of Guam, and sent the pin- nace on shore with a flag of truce, in order to obtain some provisions ; but the inhabitants sent word they could not trade without the gover- nor's permission ; and, therefore, it was thought proper to make imme- diate application to him. Mr. Godfrey, agent for the owners on board the Success, having been sent to the governor's residence at Umatta, returned on the 16th, in one of their proas, with a message, importing that they should be supplied with provisions, provided they behaved civilly and paid honestly. On the same day their own launch arrived, and brought on board bread, greens, fruits, sugar, brandy, and catile. On the next the governor sent a handsome present of sugar, brandy, and palm wine, with a considerable quantity of chocolate : in acknowledgment of which kindness the whole ship's company drank his health, under a dis- charge of seven guns. The governor having agreed for the ransom of the Marquis de Villa Roche, who had been so long their prisoner, he went on shore on the 18th of May, in company with the agent, first lieutenant, and surgeon, and was complimented with five guns on his landing. Soon after this they received a letter, in which the governor agreed to pay for the con- secrated plate, and desired more powder and shot : to which the captain replied, that he would not spare an^ more, nor send back the negroes. The yawl went on shore on the 28th for more provisions ; but the offi- cer who had the government of the village told them they should have no more, unless they sent a quantity of-powder and shot. On this Captain Clipperton immediately weighed anchor, sending the pinnace ahead to sound, and making the best of his way to his ship in the harbour. During this kind of sham treaty, the people on shore had raised a battery, from whence they now began to fire at the pinnace, which, on her return, gave an account that the channel was within pistol- shot of the shore. About six in the afternoon, making toward the ship, they ran aground, the Spaniards having carried her into shoal water ; so that they now sustained two fires, one from the ship and another froni the battery over their heads. At nine o'clock they got foul of the rocks, and endeavouring to get off, cut away two of their anchors ; and the enemy now fired so warmly with stones and shot from a new battery erected on a hill, that they suffered extremely in their hull and rigging, and lost the first lieutenant, and three men wounded. Thus they lay in a miserable condition, exposed to the continual fire of the enemy, who, in the night, had a very considerable advantage over them, for the water being as smooth as a pond, easily showed their position ; whereas they had no other direction for their aim than the flashes of the guns from the Spanish battery. At four in the afternoon they set her afloat, and cut away the small bower-anchor ; but in ten minutes ran aground again ; at nine they car- ried out the kedge-anchor, but in heaving the hawser broke ; they im- mediately carried out another hawser, with a lower-deck gun to it, having now lost all their anchors, and being still aground. At two o'clock in the morning the enemy hailed them several times to surrender, or expect no quarter ; and at eleven o'clock in the forenoon they carried out the rest of the small bower, with two lower-deck guns, right ahead, into five fathoms water : they then cleared away the hold, ready to start their wa- ter, to make the ship lighter ; got their upper and lower-deck guns for- JOHN CLIPPEUTON. 139 ward, to bring her by the head, the ship hanging abaft upon the rock. During the last four-and-twcnty hours they had happily but one person wounded ; but the ship was wretchedly torn and mangled between wind and water. On the 30th, at six in the afternoon, just as they got afloat, the enemy fired so briskly from the new battery, that the shot raked them be- tween wind and water, killing one of their people and wounding two others. Thus they lost both their bower-anchors and cables, the stern and kedge anchors, four hawsers, four of their lower-deck guns, and nineteen barrels of powder ; and had two men killed and six wounded, having stood no less than fifty hours a fair mark for the enemy to fire at ; and if they had not got clear, it was believed they would have sunk them before morning. On the 23d of June, on a strict examhiation, they found the ship in a very shattered condition, having scarce a whole timber in her upper works : and as it blew pretty fresh, they durst not carry sail, but were forced, for a week together, to scud under bare poles, through variable winds and in bad weather. This, indeed, was a melancholy situation for people to be in, who were in seas with which they were but little ac- quainted, and sailing by charts on which they could not absolutely depend. On the 1st of July fell in with other islands, and despatched their pinnace for intelligence how far Macao bore from them, for which port they now intended to proceed. The pinnace returned on the next day with a boat, in which were three Chinese sailors, from whom they could learn nothing more than that Canton lay to the south-west. On the 3d, finding they were too far to the leeward of Macao, and not being able to get a pilot, they resolved to sail for Amoy, before which port they arrived on the 5lh, in the evening. The entrance of the port is remarkable, having a high mountain, on the top of which is a tower, which may be seen twenty leagues at sea ; and on the other side of it is a little island, which lies immediately before the bay. They entered thi.s bay on the Gth of July, and they were no sooner anchored than they had ten custom-house officers put on board. The day after this the men mutinied, and insisted that the captain should pay them their prize mo- ney immediately, as they knew the Success was in no condition to put to sea. On the 12th the officers went on shore to wait on the hoppo, who re- ceived them in a very fine palace, treated them with great civility, and gave them permission to remain iu the harbour till the monsoons were over, for which, however, he demanded, and soon afterward was paid, in ready money, a very extraordinary compensation, under the name of port charges, amounting to 1700 dollars, which is about £400 sterling. Some of the men having gone on shore without leave, Captain Clipperton would have corrected them, but the whole crew declaring on their side, prevent- ed it ; so that all things fell into confusion, the men refusing to work till they had received their prize money. To show that they had no more regard to the credit of their country than they had to the respect due to their officer, they applied to the chief mandarin of the place, and desired that he would do them justice against the captain. Clipperton' was, therefore, summoned before him ; and on the manda- rin's demanding a reason why he refused to comply with the desires of the crew, he produced the articles, by which it appeared that the prize money was not to be shared till their return to London. But Captain Cook (for so he was now called) being examined, gave the mandarin a different account ; on which a guard of soldiers was sent on board the ship, with a strict order from the mandarin to Captain Clipperton to set- 140 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. tie the shares, and pay the men, with which he was obliged to comply. Pursuant to the same orders, this distribution was made on the 16th of September; but though Mr. Cook and his associates carried their point in this manner, Captain Clipperton's arguments had so much weight with the chief mandarin, that before he permitted them to proceed to the dis- tribution, he obhged them to lay by one-half of the cargo for the benefit of the owners ; which, in ready money, wrought silver, gold, and jewels, amounted to between 6 and £7000 sterling, which was immediately put on board a Portuguese East Indiaman, called the Queen of Angels, which ship was afterward unfortunately burnt at Rio Janeiro, on the coast of Brazil ; so that of the effects the owners received no more, the charges of salvage being deducted, than £1800. They weighed anchor from the Bay of Amoy on the 13th of Septem- ber, in order to proceed lo Macao, in the road of which they anchored on the 4th of October. As soon as Captain Clipperton entered the port, Mr. Cook and another gentleman proposed going to Canton, to consult Mr. Winder, supercargo to an East Indiaman, who was son to one of the principal proprietors, as to what should be done with the Success ; and, on their return, she was surveyed, condemned, and sold for 4000 dollars. After this, Clipperton agreed with the purchaser for a passage in her to Batavia. And when he arrived there, he procured a passage, in a Dutch ship, to Europe. On his arrival in Holland, finding himself in a decli- ning state of health, he took the first opportunity of getting to Galvvay, in Ireland, where he had left his family ; but the satisfaction he received in seeing them was of a very short duration, for, with a broken fortune, he died of a broken heart within a week after his landing. CAPTAIN GEORGE SHELVOCK.— 1719-23. An account has been already given of the preceding voyage, and of the motives that influenced the undertaking. It remains now only to relate the proceedings of Captain Shelvock, the second in command, who has himself been circumstantial in laying before the public the particu- lars. On the 13th of February, 1719, sailed from Plymouth, in the Speedwell, in company with the Success, of 36 guns. Captain John Clip- perton. On the 15th, went under his lee, and desired him to send for his wine and brandy, which he neglecting, lost his sea-stock of liquors ; for they never saw anything of each other till about two years afterward. 'Thursday, the 19th, a storm arose, and about midnight a sea drove in the quarter and one of the stern dead-lights. For a considerable time they were under apprehensions of foundering ; a succession of prodigious seas drove over the ship ; and, in this melancholy state, the chain-pump was the only means of deliverance. February 20th, had no sight of the Success, and at midnight set the topsails, and stood to the north-westward. A tedious passage occurred to the first place of rendezvous, the Canary islands ; and did not arrive there till the I7th of March, where hearing no- thing of the Success, on the 29th took their departure from the Island of Ferro, in hopes of meeting with Captain Clipperton among the islands of Cape de Verde. On the 14th of April, made the Isle of May ; and run ning alonsr shore, saw a wreck, which they were told was the Vanzittem Indiaman, Captain Hide, who, three weeks before, had been cast away. On Friday, June 19th, made the Island of St. Catharine's ; and at ten next morning anchored in ten fathoms water, the Island of Gall bearing GEORGE SHELVOCK. 141 east-north-east, distant two leagues, and the easternmost point of St. Catharine's east and by south, distant four leagues. The first thing was to send the carpenter on shore, with all the people that could be useful in felling trees and sawing them into plank, and to order the cooper and his crew to trim the casks and fill them with water. July the 2d, were alarmed at break of day by the appearance of a large ship at anchor, four or five miles below the place where they lay. An officer was sent in the launch, well manned and arm.ed, to see what he could make of her, and put the ship into the best posture of defence practicable. About noon the launch returned, and brought word that this ship was the Ruby, formerly an English man-of-war, and now one of M. Martinet's squadron ; that she came from the South Seas, and was com- manded by M. la Jonquiere ; that he, his officers, and seamen, to the number of 420, were all French ; and though in the Spanish service, had not the least design to molest the English. July 15th, saw a great ship plying into the harbour's mouth ; but when she discovered the Speedwell, made the bestof her way out again. This possessed M. la Jonquiere with a notion of her being the Success, and put him into a hurry to be gone ; accordingly, when night came, he weighed, and went to sea the next morning. During all this, the car- penter went on but slowly in the woods ; and at last, when they came to case the stern all over with thick plank, they could find no nails fit for that use ; and it seemed the first carpenter and his crew had sold most of the stores before the ship left Plymouth. July 25th, a large Sjhip came in, called the Wise Solomon, of St. Malo's, of 40 guns, and 160 men, com- manded by M. Domain Girard, and bound to the coasts of Chili and Peru to trade. August 3d, there came in the St. Francisco Xavier, a Portuguese man-of-war, of 40 guns, and 300 men, from Lisbon, bound to Macao, in China, commanded by Captain la Riviere, a Frenchman. On the 6th three of the men deserted, and the mate and his party went up to the Portuguese plantations in search of them. It being almost midnight, the inhabitants took the alarm, and planted themselves in ambuscade to de- stroy them as they came back. No sooner had they returned into the boat, than they heard them rushing out of the woods, crying, " Kill the dogs, kill all the English dogs." This outcry was instantly followed by a volley of small arms, which wounded three men. They made no long stay after this disaster, but took their departure from the northernmost point of St. Catherine's, on the 9th of August. September 19th, about midnight, perceived the water to be discoloured all at once, and upon heaving the lead, found themselves in twenty-six fathoms water ; this done, stood off again to sea, but did not deepen their water in the running of five leagues. This seems to be a bank very near the entrance of the straits of Magellan. On the 13th, the fog clearing up, they had a full but melancholy prospect of the most desolate country that can be conceived, seeming no other than continued ridges and chains of mountains, one within another, perpetually buried in snow. Till now, they had not been sensible of any helps or hindrances by currents ; but this afternoon were hurried with incredible rapidity into the straits, and just as they had gained somewhat more than the mid-passage, the nor- thern tide came rushing out with a violence equal to that of the tide which had brought them in, and to their great astoniohment, drove them out of the straits again at a great and extraordinary rate, notwithstanding a fresh and fair gale in their favour, at north-virest. The ship laboured in the most alarming manner, and became insensible of the guidance of the 142 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. helm ; but at midnight the tide shifting, they put through the straits with- out seeing the land on either side, and in the morning had a very good offing to the southward. They now formed a resolution of going to the Isle of Chiloe ; and on the 30th of November entered the channel, with an intent to surprise and attack the towns of Chacao and Calibuco ; but immediately after they had come-to, the windward tide made out with prodigious rapidity, which instantly caused a great sea ; and the wind increasing at the same time, the channel all around appeared as if agitated by a storm. In the rnidst of this the ship laid a great strain upon her cable, which unfortu- nately parted, and they lost the anchor. December 3d, there came a Spanish officer, in a piragua rowed by eight Indians, sent by the governor to know who they were. They hoisted French colours, and when the Spaniard came on board, told him they were a homeward-bound French ship, called the St. Rose, and that the captain's name was Le Janis le Breton. Under this notion he staid all night, and next morning departed, not seeming to suspect them. From this deception they had now the decks full of live cattle, such as European sheep, hogs, guanicoes, poul- try in abundance, and hams, Sec, as also a good quantity of wheat, bar- ley, potatoes, maize, or Indian corn ; and in short, four months' provisions to what remained of the English stock. December 17th, unmoored, and at noon weighed and sailed out with the wind al west-south-west. On December the 23d, came abreast of the Teats of Biobia, and in the evening arrived in the bay, from whence were ordered the boats, well manned and armed, to go up in the night to surprise what ships or vessels might be in the harbour, and to make v/hat observations they could concerning the place. About noon Captain Hatley returned in the pinnace, having taken the Solidad d'Anday, of 150 tons, the only ship in the road, lately come from Baldivia, laden with tim- ber ; had nobody on board except the boatswain, an old negro, and two Indian boys. He took also a small vessel of about twenty-five tons, near the Island of Quiriquine, which belonged to a priest who had been gather- ing fruits, and was now made a prisoner in her, together with four or five Indians. They were agreeably surprised soon after with the sight of a .large ship, coming about the northernmost point of the Island of Quiriquine. It was almost dark, and she could not perceive what they were, so that she stood on without fear. As soon as she approached near enough they hailed, to which she returned no answer, and they fired into her. This was no sooner done, than she came-to, and called for quarter. She was called the St. Fermin, came from Callao, burthen about 300 tons, and laden with sugar, molasses, rice, coarse French linen, and some cloths of Quito, together with a small quantity of chocolate, and about 5 or 6000 dollars in money and wrought plate. January 1st, Captain Betagh went to Conception, with a copy of Shel- vock's commission, the declaration of war, &c., and soon after returned with a Flemish Jesuit, a Spanish lawyer, an Englishman, and a Scotch- man. The Jesuit assured the Captain he was only come to pay his re- spects, and to do his utmost to promote the ransom of the ships ; he then said that the captains of the St. Fermin and Solidad had resolved to give 12,000 dollars for the ransom of both the ships, and the Mercury included, instead of 16,000 dollars, which had been insisted on for the St. Fermin only. To this they positively answered, that all persuasions, artifices, and pretences should never qjake ihem agree to them. They had taken in the St. Fermin ten large silver candlesticks, each of them weighing GEORGE SHELVOCK. 143 above twenty-five pounds sterling. January 6th, the morning passed away without any news from the town. They now began to make pre- paration for sailing, in which they spent the greater part of the day. There being no appearance of any boat coming off, they ordered the St. Terrain to be set on fire. Her cotton sails, being loosed, made a prodigious blaze. They had already set fire to the Solidad to quicken their motions ; and now, having concluded the treaty, immediately got under sail, much cha- grined at the loss of so many days without reaping any advantage. January 11th, at six in the morning, saw the Island of Juan Fernandez, and from that day uutil the 15th, kept standing off and on the shore for boats, which were fishing. At length, going on shore to make a search, some of the men accidentally saw the word Magee, which v/as the name of Clipperton's surgeon, and Captain John cut out under it upon a tree. Being thus confirmed in the certainty of Clipperton's arrival, they directly made the best of their way to the northward. February 5th, despatched Mr. Brooks ahead to discover if there were any shipping at Arica, and next day had a sight of the head- land of that place and the Island of Guano, with a ship at anchor on the northern side of it, and saw the Mercury standing out of the bay, by which they judged the ship was too warm for her, and therefore made all possible haste to get up to her with the ship. They found her already taken, and that the Mercury only went accidentally adrift. This prize was called the Rosario, of about 100 tons, of no value. February 26th, the officers in the Mercury desired to be relieved, and it being Captain Hatley's turn to go in her, he proposed that he might continue along shoro so far as Lobos, an island in about seven degrees of south latitude The very next day they took a small bark laden with rice, chocolate, wheat, flour, and the like. The day following they took another. On the fourth day they became masters of a ship of near 200 tons, worth 150,000 pieces of eight. Flushed with this success, the greater part of the people wished to lay hold of this opportunity and go to India : but no sooner clapped their helm aweatherfor this purpose, than they saw a sail standing in chase, which, in short, proved to be a Spa- nish man-of-war, who caught them, and put an end to their Indian voyage. March 21st, at three in the afternoon, saw the Pena Oradado, or the Hole in the Rock ; and in an hour afterward entered the cove of Paita, with French colours flying. At two o'clock next morning, Shelvock landed with forty-six men, leaving Mr. Coldsea, the master, and some others to bring the ship nearer in, that they might the more expeditiously enabark the expected plimder. They marched up to the great church without meeting any opposition ; and indeed found the town entirely de- serted by the inhabitants. The remainder of the day was spent in ship- ping off the plunder. In the afternoon there came a messenger, to know what they would take foi the ransom of the town and ship ; to which it was answered, 10,01)0 pieces of eight. Having received a negative an- swer, and got everything serviceable out of the town, they instantly set it on fire ; and the houses, being extremely dry, consumed a\vay apace. But no sooner was Paita in a blaze, flhan those on board made signals for them to come off, and kept incessantly firing toward the mouth of the harbour, where was a large ship lying with her fore-topsail aback, and with a Spanish flag flying at her fore-topmast-head. As she was coming in with all sails spread, Mr. Coldsea, by the assistance of the few on board, fired so smartly, that he stopped the enemy's career. The Spa- niard apprehending he should have hot work, brought his ship to, that he might put huoself into a condition of making a more vigorous attack. 144 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. This inactivity of the enemy gave an opportunity for all the men to come off, about fifty in number, but the Spaniard was within pistol-shot before they had got into the Speedwell ; upon which they cut the cable, but the ship falling the wrong way, had just room enough to fill clear of him. They expected him every minute to board, and upon hearing a shouting among them, and seeing their forecastle full of men, it was concluded they had now come to that resolution ; but the English presently saw the occasion of this joy was their having shot down the ensign-staff, though a new ensign was spread in the mizzen-shrouds. Upon sight of this they lay snug, and held their way close upon the quarter ; at last, designing to do the business at once, they clapped their helm well astarboard, to bring their whole broadside to bear, but their fire had little or no effect. All stood fast in the Speedwell, which gave time both to get ahead and to windward of him, before he could fill his sails again. After this, he was in a great hurry to get his spritsail-yard fore and aft, threatening very hard, and plying them with his forechase ; but they were soon out of his reach ; this ship was called the Peregrine, of fifty-six guns, with upward of 450 men. The Speedwell had but twenty mounted, with seventy-three white men, eleven negroes, and two Indians. May I Ith, saw the Island of Juan Fernandez, bearing east half south. On the 21st a hard gale of wind came from seaward, and brought in with it a tumbling swell ; so that in a few hours the cable, which was never wet before, parted, and inevitable shipwreck appeared before their eyes. But Providence so far interposed, that if they had struck but a cable's length farther to the eastward or westward of the place where they did, they must certainly all have perished. The mainmast, fore- mast, and mizzen-topmast went all away together ; and happy it was they did so ; for, by making them serve by way of raft, and by the help of those who were on shore before the wind came on, all were saved except one man. They now began to think of building such a vessel from the wreck as might carry all off at once from the island ; and for that purpose consulted with the carpenters. June 8th, laid the blocks, and got the bowsprit ready to make a keel. September 9th a boat, begun by the armourer, was launched ; and, being now in a fair way of completing the bark, there yet remained, unconsidered and undetermined, what provisions should be got for the present voyage. All the stock consisted of but one cask of beef, five or six bushels of farina or Cassada flour, together with four or five live hogs. The little boat was now daily employed in fishing. Tke armourer constantly supplied them with hooks, and there was no want of lines, which were made of twisted riband. In the mean- time, those who were ashore made twice-layed stuff for rigging and other uses ; others patched up the canvass for sails ; the cooper completed his casks ; and, in a short time, they had masts an-end tolerably well rigged, and thought they made a pretty good figure. The next spring tide they found means to launch her, which happened on the 5th of October, by which time they had saved about 2300 conger eels, weighing one with another about one pound each, and made about 60 gallons of seals' oil to fry them in. This, with what was mentioned before, was all their eea-stock. As she went off the blocks she was named the Recovery. October 6th, set sail, with nothing to subsist on at sea but the before- mentioned smoked congers, one cask of beef, and four live hogs, together with three or four bushels of farina. They were upward of forty persons crowded together, and lying upon bundles of eels, with no convenience GEORGE SHELVOCK. 145 of keeping the men clean, nor anything to defend them from their abomi- nable stench ; not a drop of water to be had without sucking it out of the cask through a pipe, which being used promiscuously, became into- lerably nauseous. All the conveniency for firing was a half tub filled with earth, which made cooking so tedious, that they had a continual noise of frying from morning till night. On the fourth day they fell in with a large ship, plainly European built. This struck them with the dread of her being a man-of-war ; but their case being desperate, they stood for her, when the enemy discovering the brownness of their can- vass, and suspecting them, wore ship, and hauled close on a wind to the westward. In the meantime the English overhauled their arms, which were found in a very bad condition, one-third being without flints, and they had but three cutlasses ; so that they were but ill prepared for board- ing, which was the only means left of taking any ship. They had but one small cannon, which could not be mounted, and, therefore, were obliged to fire it as it lay upon the deck ; and to supply it had no more ammuni- tion than two rounds shot, a few chain-bolts and bolt-heads, the clap- per of the Speedwell's bell, and some bags of beach-stones to serve for partridge-shot. As they advanced nearer, they saw her guns and pata- raroes, and a considerable number of men upon deck, with their arms glittering in the sun, who called out by the name of English dogs, de- fying them, in a scornful way, to come on board, and at the same time fired a volley of great and small shot, which killed the gunner, and almost brought the fore-mast by the board. This warm reception staggered a great many of the men, who before seemed eager to advance, insomuch that they lay upon their oars for some time. They recovered themselves again, however, and rowed close up with the enemy, engaging them till all the small shot was expended, which obliged the adventurers to fall astern to make slugs. In this manner they made three attempts, but with no better success. Their condition now grew worse and worse ; for after parting from this ship, a hard gale came on, which lasted four days without ceasing, during all which time they had not a hope of living a minute. In this extremity, calling to mind M. Frezier's account of Iquique, the surprisal of that place was proposed to the crew, which being universally approved, they Bteered for that island. It was three weeks before they got there, and having nothing to ride the bark with, were obliged to keep the sea, while the boat went in between the rocks, and was received by some Indians on the strand with a sort of welcome. The men, being landed, went to the lieutenant's house, broke it open, and rummaged the whole village, where they found a booty more valuable at that time than gold and silver. It consisted of about sixty bushels of wheat flour, 120 of calavances and corn, some jerked beef, pork, mutton, and other useful food. Being de- termined to make some attempt in the road of Le Nasco, in latitude IG degrees south, and at Pisco, in latitude 13 degrees 45 minutes south, ihey set sail, and the very morning they came off Le Nasco, two hours before daylight, fell in with a large ship. The circumstances of the meeting and engaging her were, in some measure, the same with those they had with the other vessel. The next day they stood into the road of Pisco, as designed, and discovered what appeared to be a large ship. They bore down with a resolute despair, and laid her athwartwise ; ^ut met with no resistance, and were received by the captain and his officers with their hats off, in the most submissive manner asking for quarter. She was a good ship, of about 200 tons, called the Jesua 13 146 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Maria, almost laden with pitch, tar, copper, and plank, but nothing felso. The captain offered 1600 dollars for her ran&om, but they could not give ear to it in the condition which they were then in. From this place they steered for the Island of Gorgona, in the Bay of Panama. In the way made the Island of Plate, Cape St. Francis, and Gorgonella ; and, on December 2d, came to anchor to the leeward of the northernmost point of Gorgona, within less than a quarter of a mile of the shore. To furnish themselves with what they wanted, S-hel- vock proposed a descent on the Island of Quibo, in latitude 7 degrees 40 minutes north, where, by Captain Rogers's account, it was believed there must be inhabitants. On January 1 3th, 1721, anchored between Quibo and the Isle of Quivetta, in a sandy bay, commodious for wooding and watering. The morning after their arrival, saw two large piraguas row-- ing in for the Isle of Quivetta, one with Spanish colours flying. Mr. Brooks, the first lieutenant, found the men on shore, broughi away their piraguas, and two prisoners. January 25th, saw a sail about two leagues to leeward, and gave chase till they found she was of European structure ; and, fearing she might be one of the enemy's ships-of-war, hauled on a wind. Soon after saw a boat rowing toward them, which proved to be the Success's pinnace, commanded by Mr. Davidson, their first lieutenant. Their first interview with him was attended by an astonishment equal on both sides ; he could hardly believe he saw them in so mean and forlorn a condition ; and they could scarcely believe that the Success (if in being) had been all this v/hile wandering up and down these seas. They cruised in good order, and with a great deal of hope, until March 17th, without success, and then, owing to continual quarrels, separated, each throwing the blame upon the other ; but it must be confessed that Shelvock was in fault. March 30th, in the evening, entered the road of Sonsonnate, and, as the sun set, saw a ship at anchor. It being a moon- light night, sent the first lieutenant to discover what this ship might be, when it appeared she was a large one, of one tier of guns at least. At daylight the enemy had hoisted a jar of powder, containing about ten gallons, with a lighted match at each main and fore-yard-arm, and at the bowsprit end, with design to let them fall on the decks if the English boarded. Seeing them so desperate in their preparations, the latter ex- pected a warm dispute ; and, by what they could see, they were, in all points, superior by much to them in strength. At eleven in the morning the sea-breeze came in, and ran Shelvock upon them very fast, while his small arms were briskly and effectually employed to break their powder jars before boarding, which they did without delay, and after the exchange of a few shot when on board of each other, they submitted. The ship was called the Sacra Familia, of 300 tons, six guns, and seventy men ; be- sides a great number of small arms, with some grenade-shells and shot. Unable to get water, they were reduced to a pint for twenty-four hours each man, and then directed their course for the Gulf of Amapala, which was about thirty-five leagues to the east-south-east of this place, in order to get a fresh supply. The winds were favourable, and they arrived there on the 10th following, in the evening. As soon as they had entered the gulf, they found themselves in the midst of several small islands, one of which was the Island of Tygers, where it was expected to find water ; but their expectations proved vain, for, after a hazardous and fruitless search, not only on that but on some of the greenest of the other isles, there was not the least drop to be found on any of them. After suffer- GEORGE SHELVOCK. 147 bg great hardships, they were fortunately relieved by falling in unexpect- edly with the Island of Cano, in latitude 9 degrees north, where, seeing a run of water, Mr. Randall, without dreading the dangerous surf, passed through the breakers, and, to the unspeakable joy of all the company, soon returned on board with his jars filled. May 19th, saw a sail ahead standing along shore, and being desirous of speaking with her, made all the sail possible in chase. They gained very little upon her all that day ; but had, nevertheless, got a great way ahead of a bark, wherein were four of their own people and five Spaniards. However, notwithstanding night came on, all sail was kept abroad, and next morning they were within gun-shot of her. The captain immedi- ately ordered the colours to be spread, fired a gun to leeward, and set a man to wave a flag of truce ; but, on sijrht of the English ensign, she fired at them, and so continued to' do, with her decks full of men, abus- ing the English with the grossest appellations. The latter made no return until close upon their quarter, and then one of their countrymen was sent to the bowsprit end to inform them, in Spanish, that they were bound to Panama, and desired to treat peaceably, and hoped, at least, they would have some regard to the white flag which they saw flying ; but they still continued to fire ; and presuming, by their quiet behaviour, that t.hey were unable to defend themselves, were preparing to board, which was no sooner perceived than they met them with the helm, and gave in return so warm a salute that they steered round off. Shelvock just missed getting hold of them, but it falling almost immediately calm, continued the engagement for the space of two or three hours at the distance of musket-shot. At length, a breeze wafting our adventurers nearer to them, their courage cooled. The captain, however, still bravely encouraging his people, and exposing himself in the most open manner, was shot through the body, and dropped down dead ; upon which they imme- diately, and with one voice, cried out for quarter, and put an end to the dispute. Mr. Randall and two or three more went on board the prize and found the prisoners in the most submissive posture, asking for mercy, which was granted, though they had no great reason to expect it, after their direct breach of the laws of arms and nations in tiring at a flag of truce. Winds and calms prevented their joining the Holy Sacrament, the prize left behind, till May 22d, when they bore down, and were surprised to find no soul on board, but that her decks and quarters .were covered with blood. By many circumstances it plainly appeared that the Spa- nish crew had butchered those who were left to assist thorn, while asleep ; otherwise it could not have happened, that five unarmed Spaniards could have overpowered four Englishmen completely provided with arms for their defence. It is very probable, however, that these murderers paid with their lives the loss of those lives they had taken away ; for, being above four leagues from the land, and having no boat with them, they probably jumped into the sea on the approach of the English, fearing, if they fell into their hands, to meet the vengeance due for so horrid a crime. That part of the deck which was dyed with gore they endeavoured to cover, by throwing the flocks and stuffings of beds over it; so that till these were removed, the blood was not seen. Before proceeding any farther, it was necessary to get in a full stock of water. The Island of Quibo was hazardous, being too near Panama; it was, therefore, cjetermined to ply up 'to Cano, where, having a good boat, they soon completed their business. In the passage thither the sweet- meats of all kinds, taken out of the late prize, were divided among the 148 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. messes. It happened that one of the men, one day, complained he had a box of marmalade which he could not stick his knife into, and desired it might be changed. On opening it, there was found a cake of virgin silver, moulded on purpose to fill such boxes, and being very porous, was of nearly the weight of so much marmalade. In overhauling the rest they found five more of these boxes. This was a contrivance to defraud the King of Spain of his fifths, which he claims in all the silver taken out of any mines in Peru. They doubtless left a great many of these boxes behind, so that this deceit served them in a double capacity, to de- fraud the king's officers, and blind their enemies. On Sunday, the 13th of August, at daybreak, found themselves near Puerto Seguro, which may be readily known by three white rocks, not much unlike the Needles of the Isle of Wight., and you must keep close on board the outermost to fetch into the bay. They entered, surrounded by numbers of small embarkations of ihe inhabitants, while the shore, on all sides, was crowded with Indians, whose numbers visibly increased by multitudes which flocked together from the adjacent parts. The anchor was no sooner down, than they came off in shoals, some few on their bark-logs, but most of them swimming, talking and calling out to one another in a noisy and confused manner, but such as plainly showed how desirous they were to come near. Having done all their business here on the 18th of August, in the morning, prepared for their departure in the after- noon. They employed the morning in making a large distribution of sugar among the women. To the men they gave a great many knives, old axes, and old iron, taken in the prizes. These were the most use- ful things, and of which they stood most in need ; in return for which, some gave bows and arrows, deer's skin bags, live foxes, squirrels, and the like. A great many of the men staid in the ship all the while they were purchasing the anchor, and it was not till being under weigh that they jumped overboard to join in the lamentations of their countrymen on shore. On the 21st of August discovered an island, bearing westsouth-west, 110 leagues distant from Cape St. Lucar. They endeavoured to get in with it ; but night coming on, could not lose time to view it. This isle the people called after the captain. From hence, they steered gradually into the parallel of 13 degrees north, but had their way stopped for two or three days by westerly winds. About a fortnight after leaving Cali- fornia, the people, who had hitherto enjoyed an uninterrupted state of health, began to be afflicted with a sickness which particularly affected their stomachs. This was supposed to be owing to the quantities of sweetmeats they were continually devouring, together with the dried beef, half devoured with ants, cock-roaches, and other vermin, which was their daily food. They now shaped a course for the Island of Formosa ; and though the length of the voyage was decreasing very fast, the sickness was daily increasing in a much greater proportion ; and both ship and themselves were no longer fit for sea. It was the 3d of November be- fore they had sight of that island, and the 10th before they could get any sort of direotions to reach the intended port. At length, passing through a very narrow channel between a couple of islands, a fisherman took notice, by the cautious manner of working, that they were strangers, and made signs to bring the ship to, till he came up ; when they made him understand they were bound to Macao, and he made signs that he would become pilot for as many pieces of silver as he counted little fish out of his basket, which amounted to forty. They accordingly counted out JORIS SPILBERGEN. 149 forty dollars into a hat, and next day he took charge, and anchored them •safe in the road of Macao, near the entrance of the River of Canton. Soon after their arrival, there came off a great many of the Success's people to make a visit to their friends, who. were very glad to hear their Btory. Shelvock was now informed of the hoppo's demand for anchorage In tho river, which was no less than 6000 tahel, on account of his sup- posed riches ; and to quicken the payment of this exorbitant sum, there was a penalty annexed to this extortion of 500 additional tahel for every- day he failed in the payment of it. So that they recieved from him, upon this occasion, the full sum of 6500 tahel, equal to £2166 135 Ad EngHsh money. Before quitting his ship he sold her for 2000 tahel, which mo- ney and the rest of his effects were consigned to the India Company. Toward the latter end of December, 1V22, he sailed in the Cadogan, commanded by Captain John Hill. From the Cape of Good Hope they had an agreeable passage to the Island of St. Helena, and from thence to England. ADMIRAL JORIS SPILBERGEN.— 1614-17. [This and two of the following voyages, Le Maire and Schouten, and L'Hcremite, though anterior in chronological order to some of those just given, have been withheld, in order to give in regular succession those of the bucaniers ; men who have been celebrated throughout Europe, whose ex- ploits have been alternately the theme of history and fable, and whd, with all their faults, have perhaps powerfully contributed to excite that nautical enthusiasm, which has since distinguished our country over all the nations of the world.] Js the year 1614 the East India Company of Holland equipped a fleet in Europe, which was intended to sail for the Moluccas, by the straits of Magellan and the South Sea. Joris Spilbergen, an able and experienced seaman, who had previously conducted a fleet to the East Indies, received the command of this with the title of admiral, and a commission from their high-mightinesses the States-general. The fleet now fitted out con- sisted of six ships; the Sun, (admiral's ship) the Half-Moon, the CEnlus, the Morning Star, the Chaser, and Sea-gull ; they were equally supplied for trade or for war, each ship having merchants and supercargoes, all matters to be determined by a council of the mercantile as well as the nautical officers. On the 8th of August quitted the Texel, stopped some time at the Isle of Wight, and on the 29th of September found floating at sea a ship's mast, about which were an innumerable quantity of fish ; the ad- miral's ship, in picking up the mast, having caught enough to supply 200 men. October the 3d, passed Madeira, and December 20th anchored near Ilha Grande, on the coast of Brazil, where tents were erected on. shore for the sick, with a strong guard of soldiers for their protection. Here they tried to water the fleet, but the seamen not using sufficient precaution, three boats were taken, and most of their crev^^s and guards killed by the Portuguese. A conspiracy was at the same time discovered in the Half-Moon, some of the seamen of which ship, in conjunction with some of those of the Sea-gull, intending to seize on those vessels and on the galliot, and desert from, the fleet. Two of the mutineers were condemned by the council and executed, and the crew of the Sea-gull draughted into the other ships. 13* 150 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. On the 26th of January, 1615. a Portuguese vessel, standing in fronts sea, was captured ; her cargo proved of httle or no value, but the men on board were wished to be exchanged for some of the Dutch prisoners taken in the watering party, known to be alive ; but the Portuguese would not accede to this arrangement ; on which the prize was burnt, and the most able part of her crew compelled to serve in the ships of the fleet. On the 31st another watering party was attacked by the enemy, when four Hollanders were killed, but succeeded in driving back the assailants. February 4th, the fleet proceeded on the voyage, Bay de Cordes, in the Strait of Magellan, being appointed for the rendezvous in case of separa- tion. March the 8th, arrived off Virgin Cape : on the 17th some of the ships had actually gained entrance into the strait, while others were dri- ven off. In the meantime, when thus separated, another mutiny broke out in the Sea-gull, and the command wrested from the officers ; but the mutineers becoming intoxicated, and disagreeing in the choice of a new captain, the vessel was recovered, and the two principal mutineers were adjudged, by common consent, to be thrown into the sea, which was immediately executed, and an attested account drawn up of all the cir- cumstances. Winter was now near at hand ; and while the wind continued contrary, some of the officers and merchants inquired of the admiral what route he proposed to take, if the fleet should not be able to accomplish the passage into the South Sea : to whom the admiral replied, " I have no other orders than to sail through the Strait of Magellan, inasmuch as no other passage is known to us ; I therefore command you, that you do your best not to separate from me." On the 29th the Sea-gull was missing, though in company the preceding day, and it was apprehended she had deserted the fleet intentionally. April 5th, the wind being favourable, entered the strait. Near the en- trance, on the land of Terra del Fuego, was seen a man of extraordinary stature, who kepjt on the more elevated grounds to observe the ships. On the shore of the continent were seen ostriches, which ran with such swiftness, that a horse could scarcely have overtaken them ; and on an island near the mouth of the strait were found two dead bodies of the natives, wrapped in the skins of penguins, and very lightly covered with earth. One was of the common stature ; but the other, it is stated, two and a half feet longer. Many natives visited the fleet in the Bay of Cordes, where the fleet now was, to whom presents of trinkets and knives were made, and who in return gave ornaments of mother-of-pearl ; but for some unknown reason, they afterward discontinued their visits. On the 24th quitted the bay. May the 1st, a boat having been sent to sound before the fleet, some of the crew landed to shoot birds, when, being surprised by a party of natives, two were killed. On the 6th entered the South Sea with temperate weather. On the 21st gained sight of the coast of Chili, and on the 25th anchored near the east side of the Isle of Mocha, half a league from the shore. Next morning, boats being sent from the ships, the inhabitants entered peaceably into the trafic with the Dutch, bartering their sheep, goats, poultry, and vegetables, for hatchets, knives, glass beads, and other Eu- ropean wares. The chief of the island, with his son, visited the admiral, and remained all night. All the people were sociable with their visiters, but would not admit them into their houses, nor to approach their women ; the things to be disposed of being all brought down to the water-side. JORIS 8PILBERGEN. 151 When they had disposed of all they wished, intimation and signs were made to the voyagers, that they should re-enter their boats and depart, with which desire the admiral wisely and humanely complied, thus part- ing with mutual esteem. On the 29th the fleet anchored near the Isle of Santa Maria, when boats were despatched to try whether the natives would enter into peace- able traffic for provisions ; but it was found there were Spaniards on the island. A negotiation was, however, entered into, and a Spaniard in- vited the Dutch officers to dinner. When the guests were assembled, the latter as sufldenly broke up, either suspecting treachery in the Spaniards, or discovering that they could help themselves, probably without the trou- ble of a formal bargain. Three companies of soldiers and a party of sea- men were forthwith landed, who set fire to some houses, and carried off 500 sheep, with a quantity of wheat, barley, beans, and poultry. From their intended host, who was made prisoner, they learned that the Viceroy of Peru had been for some months apprised of their coming, and that ia April three ships had been at Santa Maria in search of them, in addition to a greater force which was preparing at Lima for their destruction. Upon this intelligence, Spilbergen, with the consent of the merchants, resolved to proceed in search of the Spanish fleet, first putting his own in a fit state to meet them. June the 1st, sailed toward Lima. At Conception landed, and burnt some houses ; at Valparaiso the enemy set fire to one of their own vessels to prevent her falling into the hands of the Dutch. At Quintero stopped to take in water, which was obliged to be done under cover of works thrown up for the purpose of covermg the party thus employed. Wild horses were at first seen here near the river, but they soon fled on finding iheir haunts discovered ; two of the Portuguese prisoners taken at Brazil were put on shore here. July the 16th, having advanced beyond Arequipa, they took a small vessel from that place, bound to Callao, with a cargo of olives and a round sum of money, but this being embezzled by the immediate captors, the exact amount was not known, nor had they time to inquire into it, as on the same day the Spanish fleet, consisting of eight sail, appeared in sight. These were the Santa Maria, the admiral's ship, mounting twenty-four guns, and 460 persons, but of these there were 100 servants ; Santa Anna, of fourteen guns and 300 men ; Carmel, of eight guns and 250 men ; Santiago, of eight guns and 200 men ; Rosaria, of four guns and 150 men ; the other three had no cannon, but were filled with musketry. All the 17th the two fleets endeavoured to approach each other, but were prevented by the lightness of the winds during daylight. The Spanish commander, contrary to the advice of his second, determined on a night attack, and about ten o'clock closed with the Dutch admiral's ship, when they hailed each other, and had some conversation before a shot was fired, but this conference was soon terminated for one of a less amicable nature. The attack commenced with musketry, followed by a lively discharge of the great guns. The ships of both squadrons came up in succession, but, from the calmness of the v,reather, the admirals remained for a long time opposed to each other, and during this time the cannonade was ac- companied by the continual sounding of tambours and trumpets. After- ward the action became more general, but the night becoming very dark, the fleets gradually separated, the ships of both being much dispersed. One Spanish vessel, named the San Francisco, armed with musketry, was, however, sunk. At daylight next morning, the Spanish admiral and his second were 152 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. widely separated from their other ships, of which Spilbergen took advan- tage, and they had thus to sustain nearly the whole fire of iheir adversary ; two of their ships are accused of having kept wholly out of the action. The Spanish admirals finding themselves overmatched, endeavoured to escape, but the Santa Anna being closely pressed, it was necessary for Don llodrigo de Mendo^a to wait for and assist her. At length, being in danger of sinking, she submitted, when the Spanish admiral made sail and got off. Two boats were sent directly on board the prize, with one of the captains of the Dutch fleet, who was directed to return with the Spanish vice-admiral, but that officer, Pedro Alvarez de Pilgar, conceived it would detract from his honour to quit his ship in the night, unless the Dutch commander would come for him in person. Finding him immovea- ble in this resolution, the Dutch officer returned, when, before any other arrangement had taken place, the prize went down with most of her crew, and among others her captain, who thus fell a victim to a foolish punctilio. Next morning others of the Spaniards were in sight, but not the admiral, 60 that, as the night was calm, it is supposed she also sunk. The Dutch lost forty killed, and between fifty and sixty wounded in this action. The victorious fleet sailed directly for Callao, but the batteries proved too strong to enable it to assault fourteen sail of shipping, drawn up un- der them i and quitting this place, sailed northward, when a small vessel, laden with salt and sugar, fell into their hands. On the 8th of August anchored near Paita, when the town was plundered and burnt, though neither money nor many valuables were among the booty ; here they re- mained several days, when Spilbergen received a present of fruits from Donna Paula, the wife of the governor, with a request that he would release some of the prisoners taken in the action, an entreaty which was not refused. The quantity of provisions on board being, however, insuf- ficient, boats were sent to the isles of Lobos, near Paita Bay, to procure sea-calves, but the seamen not relishing them, this practice was soon after discontinued. At this place, the voyagers relate that their men caught two birds nearly two ells in height ; they had the beak, wings, and talons of an eagle ; the neck, like that of a sheep ; and on the head a crest, resembling, in some degree, the comb of a cock. A tender to the fleet took a balza, something like a raft, used by the native Peruvians, and on which they go to sea ; this had been out two months fishing, and having salted a large quantity, the prize was valuable to the Hollanders. On the 21st of August they quitted Paita, proceeding northward, when it was resolved in council to steer for the Isle of Cocos, at which place they were led to expect refreshments ; the weather, however, proving tempestuous, it could not be found ; and they then determined to sail for the coast of New Spain. On the 10th of October anchored near the entrance to the port of Acapulco, and next day the fleet stood in, when the citadel fired some shots, but on the Dutch commander displaymg a flag of truce for an armistice, it was discontinued, and neither party re- ceived or offered farther molestation. Each, however, kept ready to repel treachery. On the 12th a treaty was concluded with the governor, the terms of which were that no hostility should be committed on either side ; that the admiral shouldTelease all his Spanish prisoners ; and that the Spaniards should furnish the fleet with thirty oxen, fifty sheep, a large quantity of poultry, fruits, wood, and water. By this amicable arrange- ment both were benefited, one saving their town, the other gaining more by forbearance than they could by hostility ; and the agreement was faith- fully fulfilled on both side?. JORIS SPILBERGEN. l53 On the 18th of October sailed from this port ; 26th, captured a vessel of little value, except a few provisions. November the 10th, anchored before the port of Salugua, and two boats were sent into that hrirbour to examine a river, which was reported by the prisoners to abound with good fish, and its banks with citron and other fruit trees ; and, at two leagues distant, meadows with cattle grazing. The place corresponded with the description given, but the Dutch had the prudence not to land, numerous footsteps of men who wore shoes being everywhere percepti- ble, though previously informed that Indians only frequented the neigh- bourhood. Next day the admiral proceeded thither with 200 men, but were attack- ed, notwithstanding their numbers, as soon as landed, by a strong body of Spaniards, who had concealed themselves in the woods. These were, however, repulsed after a smart conflict, but not without the loss of two men killed and seven wounded on the part of the Dutch, who, afraid of being entrapped, and having their ammunition expended in the engage- ment, re-embarked for the ships. On the 15th sailed for Port de Navi- dad, three or four German leagues distant, where they ^watered without molestation ; and on the 20th quitted it, intending to cruise off Cape San Lucas, for the chance of meeting with vessels from Manilla ; but the winds proving unfavourable, it was at length determined to prosecute the voyage to the East Indies, leaving the coast of America December the 3d for the''Ladrone islands, with a fine wind, sleering west-south- west. On the 3d saw two islands, much to the surprise of the pilots, who did not expect to see any here, at so small a distance from the main land. At daylight, on the 4lh, saw a rock at a great distance, which was at first mistaken for a ship ; but on a nearer view were undecieved, and much annoyed at their disappointment ; this rock is situated in latitude 19 degrees, and is distant from the continent fifty-five German leagues. On the 6lh, at noon, latitude observed 18 degrees 20 minutes north ; this same day was discovered another island, having five hills, each of which had at first the semblance of being a distinct island ; these islands were respectively Santo Tomas of Grijalvo, Santo Tomas of Villabasa, Roca Partida, and La Aunublada, so called by the Spaniards. From this time to the 1st of January, 1 6 Ifi, they steered toward the west, by south and west-south-west, with a favourable wind, having, how- ever, many sick on board, besides several who died. On the 2:Jd made the Ladrone islands, where they trafficked for provisions ; and on the 9th of February came in sight of the Philippines ; the ships of Spilbergeri passing through the channel of San Bernardino about the end of the month, anchored before the Bay of Manilla, where it was intended to re- main till the middle of April, as rich trading vessels from China were ex- pected to arrive near that time. Here they captured a number of small vessels, laden with fruits, poultry, and provisions of various kinds ; some being Chinese, and some Japanese, as well as Spaniards, but they were all equally seized, and distributed to the fleet, the prisoners only being released. Intelligence was received by Spilbergen, in the beginning of March, that all the naval force which the Spaniards could muster at Manilla had been sent to the Molucca islands to oppose the Dutch ; that this force consisted of ten large and eight small vessels, in which troops were em- barked, besides many foreigners ; and that they had left Manilla the 4th of February. A council was immediately summoned, when it was re- solved, without delay, to proceed to the assistance of their countrymen ; 154 I'OYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. but, previous to their departure, one of the small prizes, manned with a Chinese crew, was despatched to Manilla with a letter to the governor, in which the admiral offered to exchange his prisoners for any native of Holland who might be detained there. On the 8th took four champans, a kind of coasters, laden with provisions ; and two days afterward, re- ceiving no answer to their proposition, set sail for the Moluccas, where they arrived (at Ternate) on the 29th. Spilbergen here was of the greatest service to his country as a warrior, merchant, and negotiator, remaining near these islands till toward the end of the year, when he set sail for Europe, where he arrived with safe- ty, and in credit for the services he had rendered. The journalist of his voyage relates a very interesting fact, not recorded in any other histo- ry of that period, that the Dutch company had 3000 troops, and thirty- seven sail of European shipping, besides country vessels, in the East Indies, in July, 1616 ; a force which two or three years after, no doubt, encouraged them to commit the barbarous massacre of Amboyna upon our unfortunate countrymen. JACOB LE MAIRE AND WILHELM CORNELISZ SCHOUTEN.— 1G15-17. A BELIEF that to the south of the Strait of Magellan there would he found an open sea, or some other passage leading to the South Sea, had many years been gradually gaining ground, when a company of merchants determined to make the experiment, which, if successful, would open to them, as they believed, the trade to India by a new, instead of an inter- dicted passage,, which Magellan's discovery it seems then was. In case of success, they asked permission from the States-general to an exclusive trade, for the first six voyages, by any new channels or countries they might discover, who, however, as a general decree, granted four such voyages to any of their subjects who might prove so fortunate. Jacob lo Maire, son of Isaac le Maire, the principal member of the company, was appointed principal merchant and president of the ships ; and Wilhelm Cornelisz Schouten, an able seaman, received the charge of patron or master-mariner, with a license from the Prince of Orange. The vessels fitted out by the Compagnie Australe or Southern Company for this purpose, were the Eendracht, a ship of 360 tons, nineteen guns, and sixty-five men, and a galliot, named the Home, of 110 tons, eight guns, and twenty -two men. The president, Le Maire, and Patron Schou- ten sailed in the former; the latter was commanded by Jan Schouten, brother to the patron, with Adrian Claesz as principal merchant. June the 14th, 1615, quitted the Texel, and in three days anchored in the Downs, where an English gunner was hired. On the 30th of August dropped anchor in the road of Sierra Leone, where a stock of 25,000 lemons was purchased from the natives for a few beads. On the 5th of October were in latitude 4 degrees 17 minutes north, when a great noise was heard on board the Eendracht, seeming to proceed from the fore-part of the ship, and immediately after the sea around them became as red as if blood had been effused into it. Afterward a piece of the horn of some sea animal was found sticking in the bottom of the ship, seven feet below the water-line, having penetrated through the planking, and into one of the ribs, about the same length remained without ; it was nearly of the shape and thickness of the end of an elephant's tooth. On the lOth LE MAIRE AND SCHOUTEN. 155 caught dorados or dolphins, and about forty bonetas ; on the 20th crossed the equinoctial line, and five days after the plan of the voyage was made known publicly, for the first time, to the officers and seamen cf both vessels. On the 4th of December struck soundings in seventy-five fathoms depth, and two days after saw the American coast. On the 8th an- chored in Port Desire, where they took a large supply of sea-lions, pen- guins, birds of many species, eggs, and fish ; some of the former were sixteen feet in length, and were killed by shooting them through the head or belly ; there were also taken in one day, two tons of smelts, many of them sixteen inches in length : all the water, however, was brackish. Upon the summits of the hills were observed mounds of stones, remarked in Oliver Van Noort's voyage, under which were found the bodies of the natives, without any grave. On the 19ih the Home caught fire, and was totally consumed. Soon afterward, however, they found better wa- ter, by watching the tracks of animals toward two pools, where, by dig- ging, they procured four tons, and subsequently ten more. To prepare for a stormy latitude, the guns were struck into the hold. On the 13tli of January, 1616, the Eendracht quitted Port Desire. On the 20th, at noon, passed the latitude of the entrance of the straits of Magellan, and by estimation were twenty leagues distant from the land of Terra del Fuego ; at three p. m. next day saw it ; directed their course east-south-east with the hope, as they expressed it, to arrive at the end of the land. On the 24th, at daybreak, saw Terra del Fuego to the right hand, not more than a league off; sailed along it, and saw another country to the east, likewise high and mountainous ; judging these lands to be eight leagues distant from each other, and a passage between them, because the tide ran violeptly toward the south. Here were many pen- guins, and a multitude of whales ; the land to the east was named Staten- land ; no trees were visible on either side, and the sea-birds, unaccustomed 10 see men, alighted in the ship without dread. On the evening of the 25th the wind, which had been fair, became contrary, but they had good evidence of a wide sea before them, by the colour of the water and the long swell from the south-west. On the 29th passed to the north of some rocky islets, which they named isles of Barneveldt ; Terra del Fuego appeared to the west-north- west and west, all hilly land covered with snow, with a sharp point which they called Cape Home, in honour of the town of Home, in West Fries- land, of which the patron was a native. On the 30th, having passed to the south of the cape, steered west, encountering great waves, with a current to the westward. Next day saw no land. February the 3d were in latitude 59 degrees 30 minutes south, highest point to the southward ; weather stormy and wet. On the 12th, reckoned themselves in the lati- tude of the Strait of Magellan, for joy of which triple allowance of wine was given to the seamen ; and, in council, it was resolved to give the name of Le Maire to the strait through which they had passed. The ship continued to advance northward, and in 40 degrees south the guns were replaced on the deck. On the 1st of March made the Islands of Juan Fernandez and Masa Fuero, caught two tons of fish, but could not find the anchorage. April the 10th, saw a small low island to the north-north-west, and landed with difficulty on account of the surf; the centre appeared as if over- flowed at high water, and three dogs were found which could not bark ; though no human creature lived here, it was named Houden Eyland. On the 14th saw land extending north-east and south-west, on which 158 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. were many trees ; a canoe came off with four people of a copper colour, quite naked, who stopped at a distance, making signs for the voyagers to go on shore. On the loth the natives on shore waved their garments and boughs of trees in the air to invite their visiters on shore, and three men came in a canoe to meet the boat from the Eendracht, one of whom came on the quarter-gallery, and his first business was to draw out the naiis and iron fastenings, which he endeavoured to hide in his hair ; while a silver cup given him to drink out of could scarcely be got back, he thinking it well as the liquor equally a present. From these people it was understood there were hogs, fowls, and cocoa nuts in abundance upon the island, to which some men were proposed to be sent if a hos- tage would be left for their safe return, but to this the islanders would not consent. The ship's boat was, therefore, sent with fourteen men well armed, and vAdrien Claesz, the merchant, to try if provisions could be obtained. Immediately on their landing, about thirty natives issued from the woods, armed with large clubs, who pressed round the Dutch, and endeavoured to take both their merchandise and arms ; while some dragged two sea- men out of the boat, apparently intending to carry them off; to prevent which, two muskets were fired over their heads, which put them to flight. In the beginning of this affray, several of the women came and threw their arms around the necks of the men, and by angry speeches, to draw them away in vain. No farther intercourse took place ; these men were robust and corpulent, their ears pierced, their weapons slings, clubs, and spears ; their dress, a piece of matting round the middle, which in the women reached from the waist below the knee. This was called Son- dergrondt (without bottom) Island, from finding no good anchorage. On the 16th another island was discovered to the north, which, like the former, was low and woody, with a salt water lake in the middle, and trees, but none bearing fruit. From finding water here, it was called Waterlandt Island. Two days after another low island was visible, dis- tant about twenty leagues from the former ; natives were seen here, but no intercourse took place with them ; it was termed Vlieghen, or Fly Island. May the 8th, latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes south, the distance from the coast of Peru computed to be 1510 German leagues. Saw a sail standing across them to the north, which was first taken to be a Spaniard, but a little more observation showed it did not belong to Europeans ; they steered for it, and after firing two or three guns to bring her to, the meaning of which was not understood, a boat was despatched, which inconsiderately fired musketry at the strangers, one of whom being wounded in the shoulder, leaped into the sea. The rest dreading similar treatment as soon as the boat came near, also threw themselves in, first throwing all their little stock of provisions and furniture before them ; one of these men, fifteen or sixteen in all, took an infant with him ; two only remained in the canoe, with eight women and several children ; but the boat afterward went to the relief of the Indians in the water, though unfortunately several were drowned. Every amends they could was afterward made for this unhappy occur- rence ; the wounded were dressed, presents were given them, and all were restored to their canoe, upon which the women expressed extrava- gant joy. These people were of a light copper colour, their clothing 4 slight covering round the middle, and the hair of the women cut short ; they had quite consumed their stock of fresh water, as well as the milk LE MAIRE AND SCHOUTEN. 157 horn the cocoa nuts. The vessel navigated by these islanders was formed of two large and handsome canoes, placed parallel at the distance of a fathom and a half ; in the middle of each was a broad thick plank of red wood on its edge, across which, from one to the other, were small beams surmounted by a platform, with a shed of matting, under which •were placed the women and children. There was but one mast and one sail, the latter of matting, and having on its upper part a figure like that of a cock, intended perhaps to distinguish to what island the vessel be- longed. Their cordage was well made ; they were also provided with fishing-tackle, the hooks being formed of stone, and the bearded portion of bone, or tortoise shell. Everything was neat and well adapted for sea about this little vessel. On the 10th a high island was seen bearing south-west by south, and shortly afterward another near it, long and more level in its surface ; two fishing canoes carried 'lights in the night, one of which came to the ship ^ext morning, to the people of whom beads and other trinkets were thrown, but they would not come on board. As soon as the Eendracht had reached the northernmost island, which was named Cocos, and an- chored, three large sailing canoes and several smaller ones came near her, the people of whom, after holding out a white flag, which was duly answered, ventured on board, and were highly amused by one of the sai- lors playing the fiddle, 200 cocoa nuts, besides yams, were brought on board the same evening, in exchange for nails and beads, and the visiters proved so numerous that the voyagers could scarcely stir about on board, in addition to which, everything portable, even to the cannon balls, was stolen. These men were large and robust, their ears sUt, and their bo- dies tattooed ; a boat sent to examine the southern island was boarded by a number of canoes which surrounded her on every side, and seized the pilot's lead, but one being killed by a musket shot caused the others to retire. Next morning, (12th,) many canoes came early to the ship with cocoa nuts, bananas, yams, and small hogs, the men taking their goods often in their teeth and diving under the other canoes in order to get on board, being otherwise unable to reach the ship from the numbers around her. A canoe came also from the southern island with a present, from the king, of a young pig, a cock, and a hen, who followed soon his gift in a large sailing vessel, seated under an awning, and attended by his chiefs and people of consequence, besides thirty-five other canoes in waiting. As he approached he uttered a prayer several times, joined by his attendants, who passed their hands over their heads to the back of the neck. The Dutch on their part sounded their drums and trumpets to honour their visiter, whose messengers cleared the ship of the other natives, repeat- ing the word "/anow," while a present was sent to him. This personage, who it seems was not the king, but his son, was called Latou, who, after reciprocal civilities, came on board, and retired repeat- ing the same, inviting them to visit the southernmost island, and pro- mising a plentiful supply of- provisions. Early on the 13th nearly fifty canoes had arrived at the vessel, bringing hogs, fowls, and fruits for traffic, soon after which twenty-three large sailing canoes surrounded the ship, which to the Dutch had a suspicious appearance. Each of these had about twenty-five men ; and one of the largest, which appeared to com- mand the others, had the figure of a cock on her sail in red and gray colours ; several of the natives repeated their advice to carry the ship to the other island, and the son of Latou again came close, but declined tn invitation on board. 14 158 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. At this time, symptoms appeared as if they were putting their fleet in order of battle, upon which the Eendracht weighed. The Latou was himself with his fleet, when both he and his son quitting the large canoes for small ones, an attack was commenced with huge stones amid inces- sant shouts ; the principal vessel of the natives was impelled forward against the Dutch ship, but of course did no injury, while she was bro- ken to pieces, and the people, among whom were many women, precipi- tated into the water. The great guns and musketry soon dispersed- this armament, which consisted of not less than 1000 men, the king having doubtless mustered his whole force. The president would not stop here any longer ; and, on account of the treacherous conduct of the people, the southernmost was named Traitor's Island- Next morning (14th) land was seen ahead, which, in expectation of finding water, was named Good Hope Island ; it was only two leagues in diameter, but had many trees and habitations ; the natives coming in canoes to barter fish for trinkets. While a boat was employed in sound- ing, fourteen canoes surrounded and attempted to board her, but were repulsed by musketry, and two islanders shot. The rest being terrified at what they saw, fled to the shore, calling aloud, Bou ! Bou ! imitating the report of the muskets, to inform their friends on shore what had happened. On the 18th shaped their course to the northward, being now 1550 leagues from the coast of Peru, and having no hopes of finding a southern continent ; and next day two islands were discovered in about 15 degrees south. These were of moderate height, the border near the shore of white sand, with abundance of cocoa nut trees, the inland parts mountainous ; many canoes came off", the people shouting loudly, who were answered by drums and trumpets. They resembled the Gobd Hope Island natives, and exchanged fish for beads ; but one making a threatening motion with his spear, and others committing depredations, a quarrel took place, when the sailors fired without orders, and several of the savages were wounded. A boat sent to look nearer the shore was likewise attacked, and six is- landers unfortunately killed. These quarrels did not prevent them from coming to the ship on the 22d, but none were admitted on board ; they brought provisions of vari- ous kinds, and bargained very fairly, no attempt being made to commit depredations. Two hogs were brought ou board dressed in the island fashion, that is, only half done, their entrails taken out and herbs stuffed in them along with hot stones, which is the common mode of cookery ; a present of a live hog also came from a chief. On the 23d the ship was warped into the bay about a stone's throw from the shore, and in front of a stream of fresh water, which her guns commanded. The inhabitants now flocked from all quarters of the island, in order to traffic, and among them numbers of women, which seemed more a proof of confidence and peace than they had yet received ; about 500 men, armed with clubs, assembled near an open house or shed, which was the king's, or Areki's, as he is called ; in the evening a present came from him with an invitation on shore, which was declined without hostages. This being complied with, six islanders came off", and three officers went on shore, who were received with due honours by the as- sembled chiefs, who in return received presents from Claesz, the chief of the party, whose shirt being a great object of admiration and desire for its whiteness, was given along with the rest to the Areki. They returned four hogs, and directed every attention and assistance to be paid to the LE MAIRE AND SCHOUTEN. 159 watering party. He desired a great gun to be fired, but, along with all his subjects, fled, on hearing it, to the woods, though he soon returned ; a sword was at first stolen by a native, but the culprit was pursued, taken, and received a severe beating from the Areki's officers, alter which, nothing more was stolen durmg their stay. The hostages were soon released on both sides, and an unreserved intercourse established. On the 26th the president proceeded on shore in state, with presents for^the king, who received him with great cordiality, and taking from his own and his son's heads, caps, or head-dresses of feathers, put them on those of the two chief merchants. Next evening the seamen remained on shore, full of confidence in their new acquaintance, singing and dancing by the light of the moon to the sound of instruments, in which they were joined by the natives ; while, to add to the amusements of the evening, two of the Dutch went through a mock sword-fight to the great admiration of the natives. 28th, the chief of the neighbouring island visited the Areki of this with due ceremony ; the president also went on shore in the afternoon to a grand feast given to the strangers. Next day he took a walk inland, attended by a son and brother of the Areki as safeguards ; and having finished watering, it was proclaimed to the islanders that they would depart in two days, which news seemed not displeasing from the provisions consumed and the power ihey had dis- played. The Areki himself, attended by sixteen of his principal subjects, came on board, a man of good appearance and about sixty years of age ; he brought several presents, and was received with all due honours by the president, who seated him on the gayest cushions, and who afterward accompanied him on shore, strolling through the native habitations where the seamen were busy dancing with the islanders of both sexes. The 30th the chief of the other island paid a more formal visit than formerly, being accompanied by a fleet of canoes and a multitude of both sexes ; the meeting was extremely ceremonious between the Arekis, and the Dutch, who were of the party, could not conceive where these people could have learned their taste for so much form and etiquette. Sixteen hogs were roasted on this occasion, and a large quantity of yams and other vegetables dressed to do honour to it, of which at least 900 persons partook. Early in the morning of the 31st prepared for sailing, when the two Arekis, attended by their principal people, came on board, wearing green leaves of the cocoa nut round their necks ; provisions were supplied in abundance, and Le Maire, after treating the chiefs with wine, accompa- nied them on shore. At noon put to sea. These were named the Home islands, and the anchorage Eendracht Bay. Le Maire thought they might be the Saloman islands of Mendana. The bay lies in 14 de- grees 66 minutes south. 20th June, steering to the northward, the latitude was 4 degrees 50 minutes south, when in the evening land was seen to the southward ; next morning found it a cluster of small low islands, connected by reefs and sand-banks. Two canoes came oft", one with six, the other with four men, all armed with bows and arrows, the first islanders they had seen with these weapons during the voyage ; presents were made them, but they had nothing to give in return, and would not venture on board. Toward evening, on the 22d, saw a group of twelve or thirteen low islands, very smnll in extent, which were named Marquen. Two days afterward three more were discerned, low and full of cneen trees, two of 160 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. them two leagues long each, but the third very small; these were named the Green islands. The same day, in the evening, a high island was observed before them, which was called Jan's Island. 25th, saw very high land, supposed to be the Cape of New Guinea, and by noon were near enough to discover people and habitations ; the boat tried to sound, but was attacked by canoes till compelled to fire in their defence ; at night anchored, and were well watched by the natives. The 26ih, eight proas came off with above 40 men, armed with cljibs, slings, and wooden spears or swords, who, notwithstanding friendly signs, commenced an attack, and were answered with cannon and musketry, which caused four canoes to be deserted, and the rest made off. Ten or twelve were killed by this unnecessary severity, and three made pri- soners, who were carried to the shore to be exchanged for provisions, but not being of sufficient consequence to be ransomed in this way, were afterward liberated gratuitously. On the morning of the 30th were near a bay supposed to be in New Guinea, from some island near which several canoes came off, embellished with rude paintings and carved images ; the people had flat noses, thick lips, and wide mouths, with the odour observed in negroes. Next day, between the main and a long island, they were visited by several of the people seen the day before, in twenty-five canoes, who, instead of behaving peaceably, commenced a hostile attack and were immediately repulsed, several of them being killed, and one taken pri- soner. July 6lh, saw during these three or four days past a variety of small islands, and a burning isle close to Papua, or New Guinea, from which many canoes came off; observed the water to be discoloured with many limbs and branches of trees floating about, which seemed as if a large river was not far off; were visited on the 8th by the Papuans, or natives, every one of whom was remarked to have some defect in body ; they had black, short, curled hair, wearing rings in their noses, and proved as active, as curious, and as mischievous as monkeys. Anchored next day in a bay, on the shores of which were two villages well inhabited, the women and children flocking to look at the ship, but they would not part with their provisions. Weighed again, and coasted three leagues from the shore, passing several islands. On the 15ih were in latitude 1 degree 56 minutes south, and saw two islands covered with cocoa nut trees, well inhabited, when they anchored. Some canoes approached, and a native prepared to shoot an arrow on board, when a musket was fired to prevent him ; after which the patron proceeded with two boats, well armed, to obtain cocoa nuts, but the natives disputed the beach, till a gun from the ship dispersed them. From the woods, how- ever, the Dutch were again attacked, and after a sharp struggle, com- pelled to retreat, with fifteen men wounded, among whom was Adrieu Claesz, who had an arrow through his hand. From the smaller island the boats were more successful, where a plan- tation of cocoa nut trees was stripped, and some huts burned, on which the people became more peaceable, bringing off refreshments, and receiv- ing presents in return. July the 23d, passed several small islands, the people of which had tawny complexions and long curling hair, differing a good deal from the Papoas, or Papuans. August the 5th, came to the Isle of Goley, subject to the King of Tidore, after being much embar- rassed for many days by islands, shoals, and unknown tracks, from which they with difficulty got clear. Sailed again next day ; and, after being much delayed by calms, met, September the 17th, with a ship of their JACOB l'heremite. 161 own country, one of Admiral Spilbergen's fleet, anchoring the same day at the Island of Ternate, or Terrenate. They were kindly received by the people in power : the Eendracht had not lost one of her crew in this long navigation ; and they had discovered a new passage to the South Sea ; yet these merits did not avail them, for on the arrival of the ship at Jacatra, the present Batavia, in the Island of Java, she was seized and condemned, on a supposed infringement of the rights of the Dutch East India Company, the otficers and crew being put on board other ships to be conveyed to Europe. On the 3l8t of December, during the passage home, died the presi- dent, Jacob Le Maire, a victim to the unwortliy treatment he had re- ceived, a worthy man, and a prudent and skilful navigator ; and on th^ 1st of July, 1617, his companions arrived in Holland, having been absent two years and seventeen days. ADMIRAL JACOB L'HEREMITE.— 1623-26. In the beginning of the year 1623 a fleet was equipped, by order of the States-general and Prince Maurice of Nassau, against the Spanish settlements in Peru. This armament consisted of eleven sail of ship- ping, under the orders of Admiral Jacob L'Heremite, an officer who had served the Dutch India Company many years with great reputation A complaint which alflicted him at the most critical period of the expedi- tion, and finally terminated his hfe before he reached Europe, has caused this voyage often to be called that of the Nassau fleet, from Prince Mau- rice of Nassau, a principal promoter of the design. The admiral's ship, named the Amsterdam, mounted forty-two guns, with 237 men ; that of the vice-admiral was nearly of equal force, and some of the others little inferior ; the whole number of guns was 294 ; of men 1637, of whom 600 were regular soldiers, with practical pilots and scientific mathematicians, altogether the greatest force ever sent into the South Sea. It quitted Goree April the 29th, 1623, under orders to make the pas- sage by the Strait of Le Maire. May the 31st, fell in with a fleet of Barbary corsairs, near Cape St. Vincent, from which several Hollanders, detained prisoners, were taken and distributed in the fleet. June the 4t,h, captured four Spanish vessels from Pernambuco, laden with sugar ; two of these and one of the armament being sent to Holland from their indif- ferent sailing. July the 5th, watered at the Cape de Verde islands ; and, on the 11th of August, anchored at Sierra Leone, having, from the con- tinual rains, a sickly crew. Here presents were obliged to be given to the chiefs before communication was permitted with the shore ; a species of nuts eaten by some of the crew had nearly proved fatal, but for the prompt administration of medicines to counteract their deleterious effects ; forty-two men also perished from dysentery, brought on from eating too many limes, which seamen on a voyage are naturally fond of, though they, as well as other fruits and vegetables, often bring on this complaint if used too freely at first. The admiral was also taken ill. Two ships grounded on a bank near Cape Lopez Gonsalvo, but were soon got off. During the passage to the Isle of Annabon, complaint was made against Mr. Jacob Begeer, the principal surgeon of the ship Mauritius, that several of his patients, soon after taking the medicines he had pre- scribed for them, had died in a manner which had given cause to suspect 14* 162 l-OYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. there was something extraordinary in his practice. The vice and rear- admirals were jointly commissioned to inquire into the truth of this com- plaint. The unhappy surgeon answered the charge with protestations of innocence ; but, as the narrative of the voyage says, there were half proofs against him, torture was applied to make him confess, notwith- standing which he persisted in denial, telling the commissioners they might do what they pleased with him. This being regarded as insensi- bility, created a suspicion that he had a protecting charm ; and, on being searched, the skin and tongue of a serpent were found upon him, which to them seCTned to leave no doubt of the fact, and he was remanded to confinement. Again he was brought before the commissioners, and being let out of irons for this purpose, immediately jumped overboard, but was followed by two men, who supported him in the water till a boat picked them up. After much resolute denial, the poor man's constancy was overpowered by their cruelties, and he was compelled to confess that he had caused seven men to die because the care of them gave him too much trouble ; also, that he had tried to enter in a compact with the devil, whose presence and protection he had invoked, but this cunning per- sonage it seems would not appear. On this foundation, the wretched man was beheaded on board his ship, on the 18th of October, an instance of superstition, barbarity, and folly, not exceeded by any of the savages of the countries ihey meant to visit. On the 29th of October made the Isle of Annabon, subject to the Por- tuguese, and abounding in fruits ; a compact of amity between the Dutch and the governor was agreed upon, the former to procure refreshments, and the latter to be permitted to remain unmolested ; oxen, hogs, goats, poultry, and other provisions, were consequently procured in abundance. The island lies 10 degrees 20 minutes south, is six leagues in circuit, with a tolerable anchorage for ships ; grows some cotton, and is said to have civet cats in the mountains ; 200,000 oranges were sent on board ; and water is plentiful, but difficult to be got at, on account of the surf on the beach, which is often fatal to boats. On the 11th of November sailed, and advancing ninety leagues to the west-south-west, found the south-east trade wind, and then stood for the coast of Brazil ; near which, on the 19th and 20th of January, 1624, ob- served the sea discoloured with an infinite number of small shrimps. On the 28th one of the prize barks separating from the fleet, and being unable to rejoin, bent her way homeward. Three days afterward the fleet made Cape de Penas, on Terra del Fuego, about mid-way between the Canal de San Sebastian and Cape St. Ines. On the 2d of February entered Strait Le Maire, which they would not have suspected if the pilot of the Eendracht had not recognised the high mountains on the western side ; the marks for its entrance are high, broken, and mountamous land on the eastern side, while on the other, a western shore, are seen several round hills close to the sea-side. Two of the ships anchored in a bay of Terra del Fuego, trafficking with the natives for seal skins, and caught also i large quantity of shell and other fish ; this place, after the rear-admiral, was named Verschoor Bay. Another of the ships anchored in a very tolerable harbour, which was called Valentine's Bay. On the 14th of February, having passed through the strait several days, observed the compasses to differ much from each other ; latitude r>6 degrees 20 minutes south. Cape Horn bearing west seven leagues distant. Being afraid of falling to leeward of this point, the admiral ran JACOB l'heremite. 163 for a bay in Terra del Fuego, afterward named Nassau Bay, where the fleet anchored ; here was found plenty of water, but no fish, except shell-fish ; one of the coves of this bay was named Schapenham Bay, after the vice-admiral. On the 24th, a storm having forced the boats off to the ships, leaving nineteen men behind unprovided with arms, seventeen were found killed by the natives on their return, the other two having escaped by conceal- ment ; no quarrel, it seems, had taken place, but being defenceless, this was a sufficient reason for the savages. The vice-admiral being ordered to examine the coast, reported that the whole of Terra del Fuego is di- vided into many islands, and that to pass into the South Sea it is not necessary to double Cape Horn, for that on every side there were open- ings, bays, and gulfs, running into the land as far as the eye could dis- tinguish. The natives are said by these voyagers to be as white as Europeans when young, which they saw in several infants, but that the constant use of oil and dirt, with exposure, changes the natural colour in adults. Most of them paint their bodies with a species of red ochre, some with white ; they are well proportioned, about the stature of the whites, have long, thick, black hair, and teeth filed as sharp as the blade of a ktife. The men were entirely without clothing ; the women with a slight cover- ing round the waist, and necklaces of shells ; they also were painted, like the men. Their huts were formed of trees, of a circular form, diminishing at top to a point, with an opening for the smoke. They had lines, hooks, and harpoons for fishing, all neatly made ; and they never were seen abroad without their arms. They possessed boats made from the bark of large trees, and very dexterously curved, something like Venetian gondolas, and from ten to sixteen feet long ; no religion or government seems to exist among them, and they cat everything raw. 'On the 27th of February quitted Nassau Bay, the wind westerly, Juan Fernandez being appointed the rendezvous in case of separation. On the 8th of March were in 61 degrees south ; three of the ships straggled from the fleet, and on the 28th the admiral saw the coast of Chih ; April the 6th, he anchored at Juan Fernandez, where three soldiers and three gunners from the vice-admiral's ship chose to remain in preference to going to sea. On the 3d of May had sight of the coast of Peru, and on the 8th, nearly abreast of Callao, took a small bark with eleven men ; from whom the admiral heard that the treasure fleet, consisting of five ships richly laden, had sailed from Callao for Panama. The Spanish admiral, in a ship of 800 tons and forty-two guns, with two smaller vessels of war, were still in the former port, besides a great number of merchant vessels ; to protect which, there were not more than 300 soldiers, while the na- tives and negroes were inclined to rise against their masters. Upon this, a council of war was held, whether to pursue the galleons or attack Cal- lao ; the latter was resolved upon, the command now devolving on the vice-admiral, Schapenham, in consequence of the extreme ill health of L'Heremite. On the 9th the troops embarked in the boats, but, on account of the surf and the Spaniards on the beach, did not persist in landing ; during the two following days the commander seemed at a loss what to do ; in the night of the 12th an attack was made on the merchant vessels, about fifty in number, when they were set on fire, instead of being brought off, 164 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. which might have been easily accomplished ; but all their measures now indicated neither spirit nor perseverance, and farther operations were confined merely to predatory excursions, instead of attempting the town and fleet at once. On the 2d of June the admiral, L'Heremite, died, a man of skill and courage, to whom no part of the misconduct or ill success of his fleet was owing. Two attempts were made upon a ship, the Recargo, which had on board some of the treasure not carried away in the fleet, but with some want of success attending all their other enterprises. Some of the Spanish prisoners applied for an exchange, but the governor replied, that they had only powder and ball at the service of the Hollanders, an an- swer which proved fatal to his unfortunate countrymen ; for, immediately on receiving it, those detained in the Dutch fleet, twenty-one in number, were hanged at the yard-arm of the Amsterdam, a most barbarous and unjustifiable proceeding, for which no apology ever was or could be of- fered. Schapenhara was now ashamed of the insignificant part he was acting with so large a force, but did not appear to know what to do. At one time it was determined to proceed against Chili, for which various prepa- rations were made. August the 5th, Gruaquil was captured by two ships under Verschoor, the rear-admiral, who set it on fire ; 100 Spaniards being killed in its defence, and seventeen prisoners taken, who were barbarously thrown into the sea, under the pretence of treachery. On the 14th left the anchorage off Callao, where no water could be procured, and proceeded twenty miles to the southward, where the landing being good, and their force unbroken, an easy descent and march to the city was practicable. This, however, was neglected. A second attempt was made upon Guaquil without any apparent object, and proved extremely disastrous, twenty-eight men being killed in a shameful retreat, though the attacking force was double that formerly successful. A resolution was now taken to go to Acapulco, to wait for the galleon ; here Schapenham attempted to negotiate with the governor, who, how- ever, would not listen to him ; and though the face of the former was sufficient to procure anything on the coast for the supply of his fleet, it was not tried, as if his incapacity should be plainly discernible in every part of his command. November the 29th, after various contradictory determinations, the fleet finally quitted this coast for the East Indies ; thus cheaply freeing the Spaniards from the formidable force which threa- tened their possessions in Peru, and which, skilfully and courageously applied, might have gone far to dispossess them of it. In fifty-seven days the fleet made Guaham, or Guam, one of the La- drones, when 150 canoes came off to barter yams and cocoa nuts for such trinkets and metal implements as the voyagers had to spare ; for the scurvy had made great ravages, "and some ships were so weak as scarcely to be able to work their sails. February the 11th, sailed for the Moluccas, and four days after saw land, high, and seemingly well in- inhabited and cultivated ; several canoes attempted to follow them, but in vain ; the people resembled the Ladrone islanders. March the 4th, anchored at the Island of Terrenate. Here the voyage of the Nassau fleet may be said to have terminated, the ships having separated upon different services in the East Indies. In October Schapenham embarked, being in a bad state of health, on board the Eendracht, at Batavia, but died early in November. The ope- rations of his fleet were, therefore, of no importance in any point of view, jACOft ROOGEWElPf. 105 the military transactions being contemptible, and the discoveries being confined to the knowledge of Nassau Bay, and a more accurate idea of the nature of the southern portion of Terra del Fuego. ADMIRAL JACOB ROGGEWEIN.— 1721-23. Jacob Roggewein, bred originally to the law, had been to the East Indies as counsellor in a court of judicature, but returning home with a good fortune, presented a memorial to the Dutch West India Company to proceed in search of southern unknown lands, a project which his father had adopted fifty years before, though without meeting the desired patronage. His son was now more successful, the company adopting his plan, and appointing him admiral. On the 21st of August, 1721, he departed from the Texel, in the Eagle, carrying thirty-six guns and 111 men ; with the Tienhoven, twenty-eight guns and 110 men, and the African galley, of fourteen guns and sixty men. Near the Canary islands they were attacked by a fleet of pirates, who were beaten off, though with the loss of several men. At Brazil nine men deserted ; after quitting it, they looked in vain for Hawkins' Maiden Land,* but pretend to have found an island 200 leagues in circuit, and distant from the American coast about 200 leagues. Here they separated in a storm from the Tienhoven. The other ships passed through Strait Le Maire, and, March the 10th, anchored at the Isle of Mocha, where there were no other inhabitants than dogs and horses ; from this they made Juan Fernandez, and met with the Tienhoven, who had passed through the Strait of Magellan, and reached the present anchorage only one day before them. Here they procured provisions from the land, as well as the usual abundant supply of fish. Quitting this island, saw, on the 6th of April, an island, which, being the anniversary of the Resurrection, was named Easter Island ; next day it seemed well inhabited, and a native came off to look at the ships from a distance, but, in endeavouring to return, was intercepted by the boats and brought on board. He was of robust make, of a brown complexion, and quite naked ; his ears remarkably long, supposed to be from the weight of ear-rings. Presents of various descriptions were made him, all which were hung round his neck, and made perfectly merry with the sailors, calling out as he returned on shore, 0-dorroga 0-dorroga, sup- posed to be addressed to some large idols observed upon the coast. On the 9th the natives were observed to prostrate themselves toward the sun, and lighting fires before their idols ; several came to the ships, among whom was their first visiter, and another man who seemed quite white, and from his serious deportment was believed to be one of their priests. Next day the admiral landed, with 150 men armed, as if for an invasion. The natives met them on the beach, and, though unarmed, seemed to dispute their right to disembark, by pushing against those who landed and touching their arms, when a volley of musketry, fired among the crowd, killed several and put the rest to flight, a severity not at all required by the occasion. The consternation of these poor people was extrems, making the most doleful lamentations over the dead. Men, women, and children then came, * It is just announced in the newspapers, (May 1820,) that this island, though never seen since that time, has lately been observed by the ship Wil- liam, from Monte-Video, bound to Chili. 166 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. carrying branches of the palm tree, falling on their knees, and offering presents of nuts, plantains, sugar canes, roots, and fowls, to their more barbarous visiters, who gave presents of cloth and trinkets in return. No quadrupeds were visible, but hogs seemed to be known by the notice taken of those on board. Each family seemed to have its own hamlet ; the houses are from forty to sixty feet in length, constructed of timbers, and thatched with palm leaves ; the land was cultivated, and marked by exact and regular enclosures. The people are slender in person, well made, and run swiftly, of mild behaviour, their complexion brown, like that of the Spaniards, though in many instances whiter ; their bodies painted with all manner of figures of birds and animals. The women were mostly painted of a bright red colour, with partial coverings of linen and a stuff like silk, and wore small hats formed of rushes or straw. What is very remarkable, the men seemed to have no hostile weapons, apparently putting their trust in their idols. These were of stone, thrice the height of a man, well proportioned, with great ears, and the head ornamented by a crown ; parapet walls enclosed these gigantic figures, and they were attended by men shaven on their heads, who were doubtless priests. No chief appeared among these people, nor any one who seemed to have any particular command, except some of the most aged, who wore plumes and carried staves, as if the patriarchal government prevailed among them. It was the admiral's intention to traverse the island next day, in order to examine it more particularly ; but a strong west wind came on, by which two of the ships broke from their anchors, and render- ed it necessary for the whole to proceed to sea for safety. Latitude of this discovery 27 degrees south. Early in May, in 15 degrees 45 minutes south, saw an island, low and sandy, with a lagaon, or lake, in the centre, which was named Carlfs-hof, but which some believed to be the Houden Isle of Le Maire and Schouten. On the 20th the African galley, the look-out vessel, found herself in the night among a cluster of low islands all at once, and before she could avoid the danger, ran upon them between two rocks ; but firing signal guns to her consorts, they had time to haul off and keep clear of difficul- ties. The report of the cannon brought down a number of the natives, who lighted fires in several places ; the Hollanders, alarmed for their safety, fired in the direction, and dispersed them. At daylight next morning the Eagle and Tienhoven found themselves in a great measure encircled by land, there being four large islands and many islets and rocks in sight, so that they could not distinguish by what channel they had entered. For five days they could not clear those dan- gers ; the galley was irretrievably lost, and her crew divided between the other ships, except five men, who took to the woods, and having be- haved improperly would not return, choosing rather to remain among savages, of whose disposition, persons, or manners they were totally igno- rant. At a detachment sent in pursuit of them, they fired from the woods, and though promised pardon, would not quit their retreat. These were called the Schaadelyk or Pernicious islands. On the 26th of May saw another island at daybreak, upon which t>r€y would have run had they continued on a mile farther ; and toward evening another, the former being called Daageraad, the latter Abendroth, or Daybreak and Evening Islands. These are supposed to be the Sonden- Grondt and Vlieghen Islands of Le Maire. On the 29th came to a group of islands named the Labyrinth, six or JACOB ROGGEWEIN. 167 eight in number, from which it was difficult to get clear ; tney did not anchor, but though no inhabitants appeared, there was ample evidence of their existence, by the number of fires and quantity of smoke which were discernible. June the Ist, approached an island of good appea lance, situated 16 degrees south, and about twelve German leagues ir circuit, to which was given the name of Verquikking, or Recreation Is land. This was high land, and of course very different from the others Two boats, with twenty-five men in each, were sent, armed, to look foi anchoring ground and refreshments, when the natives advanced into the water to oppose their landing, but were dispersed by the fire of musketry. Signs of friendship were, however, made to them, and farther intercourse took place, assisted by mutual presents. The next day a stronger party quitting the ships, made presents of beads and looking-glasses to the person who seemed to be chief; who, however, received them with disdain, though cocoa nuts were given in return. After filling twenty sacks with herbs for the use of the sick, the Dutch advanced into the country, but were repeatedly advised by the chief not to do so, till at length a shower of stones from the offended natives wounded several, which was answered by a volley of musketry. Several fell by this act of retaliation, but the savages, undaunted, con- tinued the fight with increasing numbers and fury, so that the Dutch were at length forced back to their boats, every one severely wounded and many even killed, with so strong an impression on the minds of the seamen, that none, after this time, would volunteer to proceed in the boats to unknown islands, where there was any doubt of the disposition of the people. The natives here were robust, well made, active and dexterous in any- thing they undertook, having long shining black hair, anointed with cocoa nut oil ; they were painted all over the body, like the people of Easter Island ; the men wearing a kind of net-work round their waists, the wo- men wholly covered with a stuff soft to the touch, and adorned with ornaments of pearl shell. It has since been supposed that this island is the one now known by the name of Ulietea. A council of the officers was now called by the admiral, who commu- nicated to them his instructions, that if, after arriving at a certain longitude, he did not discover a country worth taking possession of, he was to bend his course homeward ; on which they unanimously agreed that, from the exhausted state of their provisions, the number of sick, and the state of the vessels, it was not possible to return by Cape Horn ; and, therefore, the only way was by the East Indies. Thirteen days after, June the 15ih, quitting Recreation Island, they discovered a group which, after the captain of the Tienhoven, was named Bauman's islands ; they were pleasantly interspersed with hills and val- leys, and ten or twenty German miles in circuit, latitude 13 degrees 41 minutes south. Numbers of natives flocked off to them in boats neatly made, who exchanged fish, cocoa nuts, and plantains, for beads and other trinkets, the shores also being crowded with spectators. In one of the canoes sat a mu\ to whom the other islanders showed great respect, and by his side a young woman nearly vi^hite ; the complexions of the majority were also but little different from Europeans, except what the tanning of the sun and constant exposure had effected. They appeared a good kind of people, their bodies not painted, but clothed from the waist downward with a species of fringes of silken stuff, and wearing necklaces of odori- ferous flowers. These are considered the Navigator's islands of M. Bougainville. ^ 168 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Quitting these, where Roggewein would not make any stay, lest he Bhould lose the monsoon for the Er.st Indies, they next day saw two is- lands, supposed to be those of Cocos and Verrader of Le Maire, but more probably those of Horn and Wallis's Islands. Shortly afterward they distinguished two more of very considerable size, which were named Tienhoven and Groningen Islands ; but though they coasted them the whole of the day without discovering the termination of the former, yet no attempt was made to land, from the admiral's anxiety to proceed to India, though scurvy and dysentery raged so much on board, that refresh- ments were of the utmost importance to their welfare. Three, four, and five men died daily, and some with their last breath cursed their com- mander for not trying to obtain that relief which was so near them. July the I8th, saw New Britain, the people being of a copper colour, with long black hair, and apparently of hostile dispositions ; dropped the anchor at the Islands of Moa and Arimoa, where refreshments might have been procured by barter, but Roggewein adopted the more summary method of taking them by force of arms, landing a body of men, cutting down the cocoa nut trees, and firing upon the natives without any pre- vious quarrel. This track had before been followed by Le Maire and Schouten, and Tasman, and the good effects of their mildness was obvi- ous in the friendly dispositions of the people, till it was foolishly destroyed by Roggewein. Pursuing his course westward, he passed between the north-west part of New Guinea and Gilolo. In September he made the coast of Java, and anchored at Japara, where the Dutch East India Company had a fort, where many of his men were landed, while notice of his arrival was sent to the governor-general at Batavia. Altogether, they had lost seventy men by sickness, besides those killed in skirmishes with the na- tives, and thirty were landed here. Roggewein, who had no license from the company to come to India, which it seems all ships were obliged to have, ought to have avoided their settlements ; but going afterward to Batavia, upon invitation of the governor-general, his ships were seized, as in case of Le Maire and Schou- ten, condemned, and the crews distributed in the homeward-bound ^eet. In the sequel, the Dutch West India Company appealed against this decision with full success, the East India Company being obliged to re- fund the value of the vessels seized, and to pay the seamen their wages till the day of their arrival in Holland. Roggewein, therefore, made a few discoveries, but no voyager has been so unfortunate in not having a journalist to record them properly, or even to afford correct latitudes ; longitudes of any accuracy not being expected. Neither himself nor any one under his directions gave the narrative to the world, the accounts being principally anonymous, often varying in the circumstances, as well as contradictory in dates COMMODORE ANSON.— 1740-44. As it was foreseen, in the latter end of the summer of the year 1739, that a war with Spain was inevitable, it was the opinion of several per- sons then in administration, that it would be a stroke of admirable policy to attack the enemy in some of her distant settlements, and thereby de- prive her of that treasure by which alone she could be enabled to carry on the war. The squadron under Mr. Anson's command consisted of six vessels of war and two victuallers. These were the GEORGE ANSON. m Ships, Commanders. Guns. Men. Centurion George Anson, Esq. 60 400 Gloucester Richard Norris m 300 Severn Edward Legge 60 300 Pearl Matthew Mitchell 40 250 Wager Dandy Kidd 28 160 Trial Sloop John Murray 8 100 On the 18th of September, 1740, the squadron weighed anchor from St. Helen's. It had been proposed to embark three independent compa- nies, of 100 men each, and Colonel Bland, with his own regiment, as commander-in-chief of the land forces ; but by some unaccountable in- fatuation, this appointment dwindled into 470 invalids, draughted from Chelsea, and commanded by Lieutenant-colonel Cracherode. Mr. Anson made the best of his way to Madeira, but had the mortification not to reach it till the 25th of October. On the 3d of November weighed from the Island of Madeira, intend- ing to go to St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verde islands ; but next day, when at sea, on considering how far the season was advanced, he altered this resolution, and appointed St. Catherine's, on the coast of Brazil, to be the first place of rendezvous in case of separation. On the IGlh of December they discovered the land of Brazil, and on the evening of the ISlh cast anchor at the north-west point of the Island of St. Catherine's. Their first care, after having moored their ships, was to get the sick men on shore, into tents which were erected for their reception. The dis- eased on board the Centurion amounted to eighty, nor were their num- bers proportionably less on board the other vessels ; yet the land air was of so little advantage, that they buried twenty-eight from the commo- dore's ship, and carried away ninety-six in a very weak condition. Their next employment was to wood and water the squadron, calk the ships' sides and decks, and secure the masts and rigging against tem- jpestuous weather, expected in the voyage round Cape Horn ; the dan- gers of which were so evident, that Mr. Anson appointed three different places of rendezvous. The first was Port St. Julian, where they were to be stationed for ten days, and take in salt ; the second, the Island of Nostra Senora del Socoro, there to ply off and on as long as their store of wood and water would permit ; and then to proceed to Juan Fernan- dez, to take in a fresh supply. Under these orders the squadron left St. Catherine's on Sunday, the 18th of January. On the 18th of February came to an anchor in the Bay of St. Julian, on the coast of Patagonia. That part of the southern continent of America unoccupied by the Spa- niards, extending from their settlements to the straits of Magellan, called by that name, is remarkable for being one continued chain of downs, covered with long tufts of coarse grass, interspersed with barren spots, where only gravel is to be seen. The principal matter which detained the squadron, the refitting of the Trial, being completed, the commodore held a council of officers on board the Centurion, and informed them that his orders were to secure some port in the South Seas, where the ships in the squadron might careen and refit ; and proposed to attack Baidivia, the principal frontier of Chili ; to which every member consenting, new instructions were given to the cap- tains of the squadron, importing that in case of separation, they were to cruise ten days off the Island of Nostra Senora del Socoro ; when, if not joined by the commodore, they were to proceed and cruise for fourteen 15 170 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. ilays off the harbour of Baldivia ; after which time, if they were not joined by other ships, they were to direct their course to Juan Fernan- dez. Each captain was at the same time directed not to separate from the Centurion, unless in case of unavoided necessity, more than two miles. These orders being issued, the squadron stood to sea on the 27th of February, in the morning, when the Gloucester, not being able to purchase her anchor, was obliged to cut her cable and leave her best bower behind. On the 5th of March discovered the land of Terra del Fuego, which affords a most dreaiy prospect. On the 7th they opened the straits Le Maire, through which, though seven or eight leagues long, they were hurried by the rapidity of the tide in about two hours ; and as these are generally reckoned the boundaries of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, the men began to flatter themselves that their dangers were almost at an end, and that they should soon take possession of those riches on which, in imagination, they had so long feasted. But they had scarcely reached the southern extremity of the straits, before these agreeable prospects entirely vanished ; the wind shifted and blew in violent squalls, and the tide turned furiously against them, driving to the eastward with such rapidity, that the two sternmost vessels, the Wager and the Anna Pink, with the utmost difficulty, escaped being dashed in pieces on the shore of Staten-Iand. For above three months from this time they struggled with such dan- gers and distresses as are scarcely to be paralleled, and had such a con- tinual succession of tempestuous weather as astonished the oldest sailors on board, who unanimously confessed that what they had hitherto called storms were inconsiderable gales, compared to the violence of these winds, which raised such short and mountainous waves as filled them with continual terror ; for had but one of these waves broke, it must, in all probability, have sent them to the bottom. On the 1st of April the weather, after having been a little more mode- rate, returned to its former violence, the sky looked dark and gloomy, and the wind began to freshen and blow in squalls ; and appearances were such as plainly indicated a severe tempest at hand : and accordingly, on the 3d, there came on a storm, which exceeded in violence and duration all they had hitherto encountered. On the 13th they all expected, by their reckoning, in a few days to have enjoyed some ease in the Pacific Ocean ; but the next morning, between one and two o'clock, the weather clearing up a little, and the moon shining out on a sudden, the Anna Pink made a signal for seeing land right ahead ; and it being then only two miles distant, they were under the most dreadful apprehensions of running on shore ; and had not the wind suddenly shifted, or had not the moon shone out, every ship must have perished. They found this land, to their great astonishment, to be Cape Noir, though they imagined they were 10 degrees more to the west ; for the currents had proved so strong, that when expecting to be in 19 degrees west, they had not really ad- vanced half that distance. After this mortifying disappointment, they stood away to the southward, with the weather tolerably favourable, tiH the 24th of April, on the evening of which day the wind increased to a prodigious storm, and about midnight the weather became so thick that the whole squadron separated, nor met again till they reached tho Island of Juan Fernandez. To add to their other misfortunes, the scur- vy began to make such havock, that on board the Centurion only it car- ried off forty-three men in the month of April, and twice that number in May. GEORGE ANSON. 171 On the 8th of May the Centurian arrived off the Island of Socoro, in which station they cruised for several days, in hope of being joined by some of the scattered ships, but to no purpose. On the 22d of May the fury of all the storms they had hitherto encountered seemed to combine and conspire their destruction. Almost all the sails were split, the rig- ging destroyed, and a mountainous wave breaking over them on the starboard quarter, gave the vessel so prodigious a shock, that several of the shrouds were broke, and the ballast and stores so strangely shifted, that she lay on her larboard side. The wind at length abating a little, they began to exert themselves to stirrup the shrouds, reef new lanyards, and mend the sails ; during which they ran great risk of being driven on shore on the Islandof Chiloe. But the wind happily shifting to the south- ward, they steered off land with only a mainsail, there being no person left to manage the helm but the master and the reverend Mr. Walter, the com- modore's chaplain, the rest being all busily employed in securing the masts and bending the sails. After encountering many difficulties, they at length reached the Island of Juan Fernandez on the 9th of June, in a most de- sponding condition, with great scarcity of fresh water, and the crew so diseased that there were not more than ten foremast men in a watch ca- pable of doing duty ; and even some of these were lame and incapable of going aloft. i The Island of Juan Fernandez, when first discovered, appears to be surrounded with craggy broken precipices ; the prospect, however, on a nearer approach, changes into a landscape the most beautiful that can be imagined ; a prospect which, though at any time sufficiently delightful, was uncommonly so to the few surviving sailors, who now beheld a land covered with wooJs, interposed with carpets of the loveliest verdure, and watered with numerous streams and cascades, the idea of tasting which, revived the spirits of those who were almost dying of thirst, The nor- thern side is composed of a range of craggy hills, covered with aromatic trees, none of which are large enough to yield timber of any considerable size. Water-cresses, purslain, wild sorrel, turnips, Sicilian radishes, and many other vegetables peculiarly adapted to the cure of the scurvy, abound everywhere on the island ; the numberless beauties of which cannot fail to charm all those who have a true taste for the beauties of unassisted nature, which greatly excel the laboured efforts of art. The great number of goats which former navigators have found on this island, have been much diminished by the dogs set on shore here by the Spa- niards. Among the goats which fell into the hands of Mr. Anson's men, were found two or three of a very venerable aspect, which, from having their ears slit, they imagined had formerly belonged to Selkirk. The dogs, having increased to a prodigious number, have made themselves masters of all the accessible parts of the island, while the few remaining goats inhabit the high grounds, and secure the narrow passes by a con- stant guard. The people of the Centurion fed on the sea-lion, under the denomina- tion of beef. Great numbers of these animals haunt this coast during the winter. They are in size, when at the full growth, from twelve to twenty feet in length, and from eight to fifteen feet in circumference : and so extremely fat, that, after having been cut through the skin, there is at least twelve inches of fat before either lean or bone is found, and the fat of the largest frequently yielded a butt of oil. As soon as the ship was brought to a safe birth, their first care was to erect tents for the reception of the sick, the number of whom amounted to 167 persons, 172 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. twelve or fourteen of whom died in the boats on being exposed to the fresh air. As the greater part were quite helpless, it was necessary to remove them in their hammocks ; in which laborious employment the commodore and his ofiicers assisted. So inveterate was the disorder, that its first fury did not abate in less than twenty days after landing ; and, for the first ten or twelve days, they buried six or seven people dailv j and it seemed as if no remedy could have repelled the power of the dis- ease. Their next care was thoroughly to cleanse the ship, which had become extremely loathsome. This done, they proceeded with all pos- sible expedition to lay in wood and water, in doing which they made the more haste, as they feared the return of Pizarro's squadron : for it waa evident, from the heaps of fresh ashes and scattered fragments of fish- bones, that they had been lately here, as it was impossible the English should be yet acquainted with their melancholy situation. Nor were they in present circumstances, with only about thirty healthy hands, to man a sixty- gun ship, a match for any vessel of force. A few days after the Centurion had arrived, the Trial sloop appeared in sight, and was brought into the harbour by the help of some men des- patched to her assistance by Mr. Anson, in the long-boat, as she had only three men, besides Captain Saunders, her commander, and her lieu- tenant, able to stand to the sails ; having buried thirty of her hands, and the rest being down with the ecurvy. The Gloucester was discovered to leeward on the 21st of June, making the best of her way for the island, though they were not convinced that it was her till the 26lh, when she appeared full in view, and the commodore immediately des- patched his long-boat on board, with a supply of fresh water and vegeta- bles, of which she was in the utmost need. Without this timely relief her people had certainly e.xpired through thirst, being then at the allovv- ance of a pint of water each man per day, and having no more than enough to serve them twenty-four hours, even at that quantity. It was the misfortune of this vessel to be continually driving on and off the island, till the 23d of July, sometimes out of sight of the land, in the greatest distress imaginable, and in the utmost danger of foundering. These difficulties were occasioned by contrary winds and currents ; but, at length, however, she made the north-west point of the island, and came to an anchor at a time when her people began to despair of almost ever gaining land, or seeing any period to their calamities but by death. The Anna Pink arrived about the middle of August, which, with the Trial and Gloucester, mentioned above, were the only vessels that ever joined the squadron ; for the Severn and Pearl, having parted from the commo- dore off Cape Horn, with difficulty reached Brazil, whence they made the best of their way back to Europe ; while the Wager was wrecked on the coast. The Gloucester, before she made Juan Fernandez, having been in sight of Masa Fuero, Mr. Anson, imagining that either the Pearl or Severn might touch there, despatched the Trial to inquire if his suspicions were well founded. She returned, after having sailed quite round the island, without getting any intelligence of them. The Spaniards have always re- presented Masa Fuero, which they call the Lesser Fernandez, as a barren rock, without wood, water, or any kind of provisions ; but this is not true. Thelatterpartof the month of August was taken up in unloading the Anna Pink, which, upon a close examination by the carpenters, was judged unfit for service, and therefore, upon a petition of Mr. Gerard, her master, to the commodore, she v/a& purchased for the use of the squadron, for XSOO, GEORGTB ANSON. 'ITS to be. paid to the owners ; and her men, together with the master, were sent on board the Gloucester. The remaining crews, which were now to be distributed among three ships, amounted only to 350, a number in- sufficient to have manned the Centurion alone, and at the best scarcely- enough to work them all. About eleven in the morning of the 8ih of September, they discovered a sail ; when the Centurion, being in the greatest forv\ardness, made after her as fast as possible. Night coming on, they lost sight of the chase, and the next morning could not discern her from the mast-head, but kept on a south-east course, in hope of suc- cess, supposing her bound to Valparaiso. About three, on the morning of the 12tb, a brisk gale springing up at west-south-west, obliged them to lie upon a north-west tack, which at break of day brought them within sight of a sail, at about five leagues distance, but not the same they had seen before. She appeared to be a largo vessel, and upon hoisting Spanish colours, and bearing toward the Centurion, the commodore ordered everything ready for an engage- ment ; but upon coming nearer, she appeared to be a merchantman, without a single tier of guns, and had mistaken the commodore for her consort. She surrendered at the fire of only four shot ; and Mr. Sau- marez, first Ueutenaut of the Centurion, was ordered to take possession of the prize, and to send all the prisoners on board the commodore. This vessel was called the Nuestra Senora del Monte Carmelo ; her cargo consisted of sugar, cloth, cotton, and tobacco, having also on board some trunks of wrought plate, and twenty- three serons of dollars, each weighing upward of 200 pounds averdupois. The intelligence obtained from the prisoners was of the utmost consequence to the English ships ; for they now first learned part of the fate of Pizarro's squadron, and also that the viceroy of Mexico had just taken off an embargo that had been laid upon all shipping in those seas, supposing that the English squadron had perished in doubling Cape Horn, it being solely on their account that the embargo had been laid on. It appearing from letters on board the prize that several other mer- chantmen were at sea, between Callao and Valparaiso, the commodore having put ten of his own hands on board the Trial sloop, sent her to cruise off the last-mentioned port. At the same time he ordered Cap- tain Mitchell, in the Gloucester, to proceed to 50 degrees south latitude, and cruise off the Island of Paita, till he should be joined by the Centu- rion ; and he put on board her twenty-three sailors and six passengers from the Carmelo, which was fitted out as a cruiser, with four six pound- ers and two swivels. The Centurion and her prize weighing from the Bay of Juan Fernandez on the 19th of September, took her course to the eastward, proposing to join the Trial off Valparaiso. On the 24th, in the evening, they came up with the latteV, having taken a prize of 600 tons burthen, laden with a cargo like that of the Carmelo, with about £5000 in ready money. On the 27th, the weather proving more moderate, the captain of the Trial came on board the Centurion, bringing with him an instrument, subscribed by himself and all his officers, setting forth that the vessel was so leaky and defective, that it was at the hazard of their lives they staid on board ; upon which, the commodore having ordered everything that was useful to be put on board the prize she had taken, together with Captain Saunders and the crew, she was scuttled and sunk. It was now resolved to join Captain Mitchell, stationed off Paita, that if a Spanish squadron should be fitted out at Callao, they might be able to give it a warm reception. With 15* iVT^ VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. •this view they stood to the northward, and on the 5th of November fell in with a sail, which, after pursuing till an hour and a half after dark, struck to them. Mr. Dennis, third lieutenant of the Centurion, was sent with sixteen men to take possession. She was called the Santa Teresa de Jesus, burthen about 300 tons, bound from Guaquil to Callao, laden with hides, timber, tobacco, cocoa, cocoa nuts, quinto thread, (which is very strong, and made of a species of grass,) quinto cloth, and about £170 in money. All the prisoners, on their first falling into the hands of the English, had exhibited the utmost signs of fear, expecting nothing but the most barbarous treatment ; they even acknowledged, so strong was their prepossessions, that after having for some time experienced Mr. Anson's civil and polite behaviour, they could scarcely credit their own /eelings. On the 10th of November, lying at three leagues distance from the Island of Lobos, looking out for the Gloucester, whose station had been appointed here, they discovered a sail, which Lieutenant Brett was ordered to chase, with the Trial's pinnace and barge. It was soon disco- vered that it was not the Gloucester ; and as there was no wind, the lieutenant soon came up with, and boarded her, without any resistance on the part of the enemy. She was called the Nuestra Senora del Car- min, bound from Panama to Callao, about 270 tons burthen, had forty- three mariners on board, with various kinds of merchandise, of little value to the captors, but a greater loss to the Spaniards than any capture made in any part of the world ; for the cargo was of more than 400,000 dollars value, prime cost, at Panama. From the prisoners they learned, that a few days before, a vessel had entered Paita, the master of which told the governor he had been chased by a very large ship, which, from her size and appearance, he imagined to be one of the English squadron, and that the governor had immediately sent an express to Lima, to carry the news to the viceroy, while the royal officer residing at Piifla had been busily employed in removing both the king's treasure and his own to Piura, a town fourteen leagues within land. Still there was a large sum of money, belonging to the merchants, lodged in the custom-house, and intended to be shipped on board a vessel then in the port, which was to sail with all expedition for Sonsonnate, on the coast of Mexico, to pur- chase part of the cargo of the Manilla ship. It was at once conjectured that the ship which had chased the vessel into Paita was the Gloucester ; and as the vessel in which the money was to be shipped was esteemed a prime sailer, they concluded they had no chance of coming up with her if suffered to escape out of the port. As they were now discovered, and the coast would soon be alarmed, so as to prevent cruising to any advantage, the commodore resolved to endeavout to surprise the place that very night. This attack upon Paita, besides the treasure it promised, afforded a prospect of supplying them- selves with provisions, of which they were in great want ; and an oppor- tunity of setting their prisoners on shore, who were now very numerous, and made a greater consumption than their stock was capable of furnish- ing for any considerable time. The town consists of about 200 houses, each one story high, the walls being made of split cane and mud, and the roofs only a covering of leaves. The only defence of Paita was a fort, without either ditch or outwork, surrounded with a brick wail of small strength, in which were mounted eight pieces of cannon, and the garrison consisted of only one weak company ; though it was thought the town was able to arm 300 men. GEORGE ANSON. 175 To prevent any confusion which might arise from ignorance of the streets, two Spanish pilots were ordered to conduct the Ueutenant to the best landing place, and to be his guides on shore. When the ships were within fiveleagues of Paita, about ten o'clock at night, Lieutenant Brett, with the boats under his command, put off, and arrived, without being discovered, at the mouth of the bay ; though he had no sooner entered it, than some of the people on board a vessel riding at anchor there, per- ceived him, and immediately getting into their boat, rowed toward the shore, crying out, " The English, the English dogs," &c., by which the town was alarmed, and the men in the boats could perceive several lights hurrying backward and forward in the fort, and other marks of the inhabi- tants being in motion. On this, Mr. Brett encouraged his men to pull up briskly, and go on shore before the guns could be fired from the fort ; when, drawing up his men under the shelter of a narrow street, they instantly marched to the parade, a large square at the end of this street, with drums beating, and loud shouts of joy ; and were there saluted with a volley of small shot from some merchants who had posted themselves in a gallery that ran round the governor's house ; but upon the fire being returned, they abandoned the post, and left the JSnglish in possession of the parade. The lieutenant now divided his men into two parties, one of which he ordered to surround the government-house, and, if possible, to secure the governor, while he marched at the head of the other to the fort, with an intention to force it, but the enemy had made their escape over the walls on his approach, so that he entered without opposition. Thus the town was taken in less than a quarter of an hour from their first landing, with the loss of one man killed and two wounded. In the interim, the Centurion and the other ships, making easy sail toward Paita, opened the bay about seven in the morning, and at twelve came to an anchor at a mile and a half from the town. This day and the following were spent in sending on board the treasure, consisting of the most valuable things to be found in the town, with boat-loads of hogs, fowls, and other refreshments. The commodore, to prevent surprise in the night, sent a reinforcement on shore, which was posted in all the passages leading to the parade, while the streets were fortified with barrica- does six feet high for better security ; but as the enemy remained quiet all night, they resumed their former employment of loading and sending off their boats early in the morning. The business at Paita being pretty well over on the third day, the 15th of November, the commodore put all the prisoners, eighty-eight in number, on shore, agreeably to his pro- mise, giving orders that they should be secured in one of the churches till the men were ready to embark. Mr. Brett then, agreeably to his orders, distributed pitch, tar, and other combustibles, of which there were great quantities in the town, into houses situated in different streets ; that the place being fired in different parts at the same time, the destruction might be the more violent and sudden, and that the Spaniards might not be able to extinguish it when he was gone. Then, having spiked the cannon in the fort, and set fire to such houses as were to windward, he collected his men, of whom there was only one missing, and marched toward the boats, which were ready to carry them off. They were just quitting the beach, and the last man was actually embarked, when they heard the voice of a person entreating them to take him on board, for by this time the beach was so covered with smoke that they could not discern any one, when one of the boats advancing to the place whence the sound issued, found the man whom they had inissed up to the chin in water, 176 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. having waded as far as he durst, as he could not swim, and excessivefy terrified lest he should fall into the hands of the enemy. They weighed anchor from the coast of Paita about midnight, on the 16th of November, the squadron being increased to six sail, that is, the Centurion, the Trial's prize, the Carmelo, the Carmin, the Teresa, and the Solidad. They stood to the westward, and in the morning the com- modore ordered the ships to spread to a considerable distance, in order to look out for the Gloucester, for they then drew near the station where she had been ordered to cruise. On the morning of the 18th they discovered her, with a small vessel in tow, which joined them about three in the afternoon, when they learned that Captain Mitchell had taken two prizes, one of which was a snow, whose cargo consisted of wine, brandy, and olives, and about £7000 in specie ; and the other was a launch, the people on board which, when taken by the Gloucester's barge, were at dinner, served up in silver dishes. Notwithstanding this circum- stance, the prisoners alleged that they were very poor : having nothing on board but cotton made up in jars, which, being removed on board the Gloucester, were strictly examined, when the whole appeared to be a very extraordinary piece of false package ; there being cancealed among the cotton doubloons and dollars to the amount of £12,000. They now steered for Quibo, an island situated in the mouth of the Bay of Panama ; and the commodore proposed, after they had supplied themselves with water, to steer for the southern parts of California, or the adjacent coast of Mexico, there to cruise for the Manilla galleon, which was known to be at sea on her way to Acapulco ; and as it was BOW only the middle of November, and the ship did not usually arrive till the middle of January, they did not doubt of getting on that station time enough to intercept her. They were eight sail in all, but the Soli- dad and the Santa Teresa being bad sailers, and delaying the rest of the squadron, the commodore ordered them to be cleared of everything use- ful and then burnt ; and, having given proper instruction to the Gloucester and the other vessels, the Centurion held on her way for Quibo. On the 3d of December they came in sight of it. This island is extremely con- venient for wooding and watering, as trees grow close to high water mark> and a rapid stream of fresh water runs over the sandy beach into the sea ; so that in two days the Centurion was able to lay in a sufficient stock of these articles. On the 12th of December they stood from Quibo to the westward, having scuttled and sunk the last prize, and being joined by the Glou- cester, which, having sprung her fore- topmast, had been separated from them. The commodore proceeded to cruise for the Manilla ship, having first given directions to his squadron to use all possible despatch in get- ting to the northward of the harbour of Acapulco ; and, in case of separa- tion, to rendezvous at the middle island of the Tres Marias ; and, if they missed him there, at the Island of Macao, on the coast of China. They made no doubt that they should soon arrive at their intended station, as they expected to fall in with the regular trade wind ; but, to their great mortification, were harassed with contrary winds, heavy rains, or dead calms for near a month, and began to despair of intercepting the Manilla «hip ; but at length their spirits were somewhat revived by a favourable change in the wind. The commodore sent his barge, on the 12th of February, in search of the harbour of Acapulco, and to discover whether the galleon was arrived* which returned on the 19th, with the news that they had discovered th» GEORGE ANSON. 177 harbour, and that, having got within the island that lies at the mouth of it, they were doubtful how to proceed ; but, while lying upon their oars, ignorant that they were then at the very place sought for, they discerned a light near the surface of the water ; on which, plying their paddles, and nnoving as silently as possible in the direction, they found it to be a fishing canoe, which they surprised, with three negroes on board. From these men the commodore learned that the galleon arrived at Acapulco on the 9th of January, old stile ; that she had delivered her cargo, was taking in water and provisions, in order to return, and that the viceroy of Mexico had by proclamation fixed her departure from Acapulco on the 14th of March, new stile. This news gave them great joy, as they had no doubt but she must certainly fall into their hand.'. On the 1st of March, the time for her departure drawing nigh, the commodore disposed his five ships in such a manner, that they took up a compass of at least twenty-four leagues, within which nothing could pass without its being known by the whole squadron ; the vessels being so judiciously ranged, that by signals information could be easily and speedily given of what passed in any part of the line. From this time to the 23d they were in hopes of her, satisfied that she had not quitted the harbour ; but, by this time, the whole fleet beginning to be in want of water, it was agreed to proceed to Chequetan to supply themselves : and lest the gal- leon, taking advantage of their absence, might slip out to sea, Mr. Hughes, lieutenant of the Trial's prize, was ordered to cruise off the port of Aca- pulco for twenty-four days, that if she should set sail, they might be speedily informed of it. On the 1st of April they were advanced so far toward Chequetan that the commodore sent out two boats to discover the watering place, which being gone several days, their water ran so short, that if they had not met with a daily supply of turtle, which prevented their being confined only to salt provisions, they must have suflfered very considerably in so warm a climate. The harbour lies in 17 degrees 36 minutes north lati- tude, and is about thirty leagues to the westward of Acapulco ; from which last place there is a bank of sand extending eighteen leagues to the westward, against which the sea breaks so violently, that it is impossible to land with boats on any part, yet the ground is so clean, that durmg the fair season ships may anchor in great safety, at the dis- tance of a mile or two from the shore. As the country appeared to be well inhabited, the commodore had hopes to have easily procured some fresh provisions, and other refreshments, of which they were in want ; and, therefore, on the morning after his coming to an anchor, despatched a company of forty men, well armed, into the country, to try if they could discover any town or village, and settle a correspondence with the inhabi- tants. These men having proceeded about five miles from the harbour, found two roads, leading east and west ; choosing the latter, they marched along a beaten track, which led them into a large plain, on one side of which they saw a sentinel on horseback, with a pistol in his hand ; but the horse starting at the glittering of their arms, turned suddenly round and ran away at a great rate ; the man being very nigh unhorsed, and dropping his hat and pistol on the ground. The sailors in vain pursued to discover the place of his retreat, till quite wearied out, and finding no water to quench their thirst, returned. As it now appeared they had not more hands than were necessary to man a fourth-rate man-of-war, it was resolved to scuttle and destroy the Trial's prize, the Carrinelo, and the Carmin, and to divide their crews and the richest part of their car- 178 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. goes between the Centurion and Gloucester, which was done accordingly on the 27th of April ; and next morning the Centurion and Gloucester weighed anchor, leaving behind a letter corked up in a bottle, and placed in a canoe, which was fixed to a grapnel in the middle of the harbour, directed to Mr. Hughes, and acquainting him that the commodore was returned to his station off Acapulco ; that he intended to quit it in a few- days, and return to the rest of his squadron, which continued cruising to the southward. These last words were inserted to deceive the Spaniards, in case the canoe should fall into their hands, as afterward happened. On Sunday, the 2d of May, they were advanced within three leagyes of Acapulco, and finding nothing of the cutter, Mr. Anson took it for granted that it was taken and carried into the port ; and, therefore, wrote a polite letter to the governor, requesting him to deliver up Mr. Hughes and his people ; and in return promised to release all the Spanish prisoners now in his hands, some of whom were people of figure. While waiting for an answer to this letter, the sentinel from the mast- head called out, that he saw a boat under sail, at a considerable distance to the south-east ; and on their approach they found, to their great joy, it was their own. Quitting now the coast of America, they stood for China, the 6th of May, 1742, and stood over to the south-west, with a view of meeting with a north-east trade wind, which the accounts of former writers had taught them to expect at the distance of seventy or eighty leagues from the land. The Gloucester, which was become very bad, was cleared of everything by the 15th of August, and then set on fire, being no longer fit for any purpose ; the flames gaining upon her gradually, and her guns going off one by one, as the flames reached them, till at length, about six in the morning, she blew up. On the 23d of August, at daybreak, they had the pleasure of discover- ing two islands to the westward, and the next morning a third ; on which their boat was despatched to one of them, which returned in the evening with an account that they could find no anchoring ground. On the 26th lost sight of Annatacan, but next morning discovered three other islands, which were afterward found to be Saypan, Tinian, and Aiguigan, and immediately steering toward the middlemost of the three, which was Tinian, hoisted Spanish colours, with a red flag at the fore-top- mast head, in hope that, by giving their ship the appearance of the Manilla galleon, they might decoy some of the inhabitants on board. A Spaniard who came off, being immediately examined, said, that the island was uninhabited, notwithstanding which, it wanted but few of the accommoda- tions that could be expected in the most cultivated country ; that the air was good, and there was plenty of excellent water ; that the woods afforded sweet and sour oranges, limes, lemons, and cocoa nuts in great abundance, besides a fruit peculiar to these islands, which served instead of bread ; and that hogs, poultry, and black cattle ran wild in prodigious numbers ; that the Spaniards at Guam made use of it as a store for supplying the garrison, of which he was a sergeant, and was now sent thither with twenty-tvvo Indians to jerk beef, which he was to load for Guam on board a bark of fifteen tons, which was then at anchor near the shore. Next morning a party of men, well armed, were sent on shore to secure the landing place, which was done without difficulty, as the Indians were fled into the woods. They found many huts, which saved them the trouble of erecting tents ; and the largest of these, being twenty feet long and GEORGE ANSON. 179 fifteen broad, was immediately fitted up as an hospital, to which they removed the sick, amounting to 128. Tinian lies in 15 degrees 8 minutes north latitude, about twelve mile long and six broad, and is one of the Ladrone islands, which, altogether, are upward of twenty in number. The soil is everywhere dry and healthy ; the land rises in gentle slopes to the middle of the island, though the gentle course of its ascent is often interrupted by valleys of an easy descent, many of which wind irregularly through the country. These valleys, and the gradual swellings of the ground, occasioned by their different combinations, were most elegantly diversified by the mutual encroachment of woods and lawns, which bordered on each other, and ran in large tracts through the island. The cattle, of which it is not uncommon to see herds of several hun- dreds feeding together in a large meadow, are all of them milk white, except their ears, which are generally brown or black ; and, though there are no inhabitants, yet the clamour and frequent appearance of domestic poultry, which range the woods in great numbers, perpetually excites the idea of the neighbourhood of farms and villages, and greatly contributes to the cheerfulness and beauty of the place. They likewise found abun- dance of wild hogs, which were excellent food ; but as they were a fierce animal, it was necessary to shoot them, or hunt them with large dogs, which they found upon the place at their landing, and which belonged to the detachment sent to procure provisions for the garrison at Guam. The bread fruit above-mentioned, which the Indians call rhymay, was constantly eaten by the Centurion's people instead of bread, and so universally preferred to it, that none of the ship's bread was expended during their stay on the island. It grows on a lofty tree, which, toward the top, divides into large and spreading branches ; the leaves are of a deep green, notched about the edges, and from a foot to eighteen inches in length. The fruit, which is found indiflferently on all parts of the branches, is in form nearly oval, is covered with a rough rind, is generally seven or eiglit inches long, each growing singly, and not in clusters. This island was formerly well peopled, but a contagious sickness having, about fifty years ago, swept away almost all the inhabitants of Guam, Rota, and Tinian, the Spaniards compelled the survivers on the last two islands to remove to Guam, where they languished after their native island, till in a few years the greatest part died of grief. On the night of the 22d of September, when it was excessive dark, the wind blew from the eastward with such fury, that those on board despaired of riding out the storm. At this time Mr. Anson, who was ill of the scurvy, and most of the hands were onshore, and all the hopes of safety of those on board seemed to depend on putting immediately to sea ; all communication between the ship and theisfand being destroyed, aa it was impossible a boat could live. About one o'clock a strong gust, attended with rain and lightning, drove them to sea, where, being unprepared to struggle with the fury of the wind and waves, they expected each moment to be their last. When, at daybreak, it was perceived by those on shore that the ship was missing, they concluded her lost, and most of them begged the commodore to send the boat round the island to look for the wreck. In the midst of their gloomy reflections the commodore formed a plan for extricating them from their present situation ; which was by hauling the Spanish bark on shore, sawing her asunder, and lengthening her twelve feet ; which would enlarge her to near forty tons burthen, and enable her to carry them all to China. The carpenters of the Gloucester and Trial fortunately were both on 180 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. shore with their chests of tools ; the smith also was on shore with his forge, and several of his implements of trade. And it was now found on examination that the tents on shore, with the sails and rigging belong- ing to the bark, and the spare cordage which had been accidentally landed from the Centurion, would be sufficient to rig anew the vessel ; the bot- tom of which they proposed to pay with a mi;iture of tallow and lime. But a most discouraging circumstance now occurred, which was, that they had neither compass nor. quadrant on the island. At length, on rummaging a chest belonging to the Spanish bark, they found a small compass, which, though not much superior to those made for the amuse- ment of school-boys, was to them of the utmost value. When these several obstacles were removed, and all things were so forward that they had fi.xed on the 5th of November as the day on which they intended to put to sea, it happened, on the afternoon of the 11th of October, that one of the Gloucester's men, being upon a hill, saw tVie Centurion at a distance ; who running with the ntn.ost speed toward the landing place, he, in the way, saw some of his comrades, to whom he cried out, in great ecstasy, "The sliip, the ship!" By five o'clock she was visible to them all, after an absence of nineteen days ; and a boat was sent off with eighteen men, to reinforce her, and with fresh meats and fruit for the refreshment of the crew ; she the next afternoon cast anchor in the road, when the commodore went on board, and was received with hearty and sincere congratulations. On the 14th of October, being the third day after their arrival, a sudden gust of wind drove her to sea a second time ; but in about five days more the weather being fair, they returned again to anchor, and relieved those they had left behind from their second fears of being deserted by their ship. On coming to an anchor after the second driving off to sea, they laboured incessantly to get in a stock of water sufficient for their passage to Macao, which having completed by the 20th of October, they set fire to the bark and proa, hoisted in their boats, and got under sail, steering away toward the south end of the Island of Macao, The Ladrone or Marian islands were first discovered by Magellan, in the year 1521, and from the account given of the first two he fell in with, it should seem that they were those of Saypan and Tinian, for they are described as very beautiful islands, and as lying between fifteen and six- teen degrees of north latitude. There are generally reckoned twelve of these islands ; but if the small islets and rocks are counted, their whole number will amount to above twenty. They were formerly well inhabited, and about the beginning of the present century Guam, Rota, and Tinian, are said to have contained 50,000 people ; but since that time Tinian has been entirely depopulated, and no more than two or three hundred Indians have been left at Rota. Guam is esteemed about thirty leagues in circumference, and contains near 4000 inhabitants, of which 1000 are supposed to live in the city of San Ignatio de Agana, where the governor usually resides ; this island, on account of the refreshment it yields to the Manilla ship, is reckoned a post of some consequence ; it has two castles, and a battery of five pieces of cannon near the sea-shore. The Spanish troops employed here consists of three companies of foot, of between forty and fifty men each. The Indians are a strong, bold, well-made people, and from some of their practices, particularly the contrivance of the flying proa, seem to be nowise defective m understanding. These flying proas, which for ages past have been the only vessels they have used, are of a very extraordi- nary fabric, and are said, with the help of a trade wind, to be capable of GEORGE ANSON. 181 ranning near twenty miles in an hour. The head and stem of this vessel are exactly alike, but her two sides are widely different. That intended to be always the lee side being flat, wjiile the windward side is built rounding in the manner of other vessels ; and to prevent her oversetting, which, from her small breadth and the straight run of her leeward side, would otherwise infallibly happen, there is a frame laid out from her to windward, to the end of which is fastened a hollow log, fashioned into the shape of a boat. The weight of the frame is intended to balance the proa, and the small boat, which is always in the water, is to prevent her oversetting to the windward. The body is formed of two pieces joined endwise, and sewed together with bark, for there is no iron used in her construction. She is about two inches thick at the bottom, which at the gunwhale is reduced to less than one. The proa usually carries six or seven Indians ; two of which are placed in the head and stern, who steer the vessel alternately with a paddle, according to the tack she goes on, he in the stern being the steersman ; while the other Indians are employed in bailing out the water which she accidentally ships, or in setting and trimming the sail. Having doubled the southern extremity of Formosa, as they were passing by the rocks of Vele Rete, there was an outcry of fire on the fore-castle, on which the whole crew instantly flocked together in the utmost confusion ; so that the ofl[icers were for some time unable to reduce them to order ; which, however, being at length effected, it was perceived that the fire proceeded from the bricks in the furnace being overheated, which had communicated the fire to the adjacent wood- work ; but by puUing down the brick-work it was easily extinguished. About midnight, on the 5th of November, they made the main land of China ; and not rightly knowing their course, lay by for the night, and before sunrise were surprised to find themselves in the midst of an incredible number of fishing boats, which spread over the sea as far as the eye could reach ; and though some of the boats had five, and none less than three, men in each, the commodore could neither by signs, by pronouncing the word Macao, nor by showing a number of dollars, entice any one to come on board and pilot him ; for the disregard these people paid to everything but their own employment, and their want of curiosity, was perfectly surprising. On the 6th, standing to the westward, within two leagues of the coast, they perceived a boat ahead blow a horn and wave a red flag, which they considered as a signal of some sort intended for them ; but in this they were mistaken, for it was only a signal to order the people to leave off fishing. About four o'clock in the morning of the 9th, a Chinese pilot came on board the Centurion, and told them, in broken Portuguese, that he would carry the ship into Macao for thirty dollars ; which being paid him they proceeded. About ten o'clock in the morning of the 12th, they came to the harbour of Macao, a small island at the mouth of the river Canton, which is in the hands of the Portuguese, who have a governor here ; who, however, subsists merely by the courtesy of the Chinese, Two days after this, a mandarin of the first rank, with two of an inferior class, came alongside of the Centurion, with a large retinue of officers and servants and a band of music. The commodore observing his astonishment, harangued on the strength of his vessel ; and observed, that his thus civilly requesting a supply, which he was so well able to take by force, was a proof of the friend- ship of his disposition ; and, therefore, desired that a daily supply of provisions might be ordered him, lest his men should be reduced by fa- 16 182 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. mine to turn cannibals and prey upon their own species ; in which case, it was easy to be foreseen, that, independent of their friendship to their comrades, they would in point of luxury prefer the plump well-fed Chinese to their own emaciated shipmates. The discourse produced the desired effect ; the mandarin allowed the justness of Mr. Anson's observations, and promised that he should have every necessary assistance, as soon as the state of his circumstances had been considered by a council of man- darins at Canton. On the 6th of April the Centurion weighed for Typa, and having got into Macao road, completed her water as she passed along ; and her whole business being finished by the 19th, she stood out to sea. It happened soon after this, that the commodore, who had taken some Chinese sheep to sea, inquiring of his butcher, " Why he had lately seen no mutton at his table 1" the fellow seriously answered, *' That there were but two sheep alive ; and if his honour would give him leave, he proposed to keep those for the entertainment of the general of the galleon." On the last day of May, new stile, they came in sight of Cape Espiritu Santo, where they continued to cruise till the 20th of June, old style, when about sunrise the long-expected vessel came in sight, having tho standard of Spain flying at the top-gallant-mast head, and to the commo- dore's great surprise, bore down upon him, for he could hardly beUeve, what afi&rward appeared to be the case, that he knew his ship, and was resolved to fight him. The engagement soon began, and lasted an hour and a half, when the galleon struck to the Centurion, after having had sixty-seven men killed and eighty-four wounded, among whom was the general, Don Jeronimo de Montero, a Portuguese gentleman, who acted with the utmost bravery. The Centurion had only two killed and seven- teen wounded, all of whom, except one, afterward recovered. The great slaughter on board the galleon was chiefly owing to thirty excellent marks- men, who, being placed in the tops before the engagement began, did execution with almost every shot they fired. The prize, which was named the Nostra Signora de Cabadonga, carried 550 men, and thirty-six guns mounted for action, besides twenty-eight patararoes, each of which was adapted to carry a four-pound ball. Her cargo was worth £400,000 sterling. It is impossible to describe the transports on board, when, after all their reiterated disappointments, they at length saw their wishes accomplished. But their joy was near being suddenly damped by a very alarming acci- dent ; for no sooner had the galleon struck, than one of the lieutenants, coming to Mr. Anson to congratulate him on his prize, whispered him, that tha Centurion was dangerously on fire near the powder-room. The commodore received this shocking intelligence without any apparent emo- tion, and taking care not to alarm his people, gave the necessary orders for extinguishing the fire, which was soon done, though its first appea- rance was very terrible. The commodore appointed the Manilla vessel to be a post-ship in his majesty's service, and gave the command of her to Mr, Saumarez, his first lieutenant ; and having taken proper measures for securing the pri- soners, whose numbers greatly exceeded those of his own people, he steered back for the river of Canton. On the 14th tho Centurion cast anchor short of Bocca Tigris, forming the mouth of that river ; and here they were visited by the mandarin, who commanded the forts at Bocca Tigris, to inquire what the ships were, and whence they came 1 and to take an account of Mr. Anson's force, which he was to send to the Governor of Canton. :l GEORGE ANSON. 183 While he remained in this city, a fire broke out in the suburbs. On the first alarm, Mr. Anson went, with his officers and boat's crew, to give his assistance ; and found that the fire had begun in a sailor's shed, Rnd that by the slightness of the buildings, and the awkwardness of the Chinese, it was getting head apace ; but observing that it was running ilong a wooden cornice, which blazed fiercely, and would soon coramu- aicate the flame to a considerable distance, he ordered his people to oegin with tearing away that cornice ; but Mr. Anson was informed, that «8 there was no mandarin there, who alone has power to command on these occasions, the Chinese would make him answerable for whatever was pulled down under his directions ; whereupon he ordered his people to desist, and sent them to the English factory to assist in taking care of the company's treasure and effects. The Chinese contented them- selves with viewing the fire, and holding one of their idols near it, which they seemed to expect should check its progress. At length a mandarin came, attended by four or five hundred firemen, who made some feeble efforts to pull down the neighbouring houses ; but by this time, the fire being greatly extended, had got among the merchants' warehouses ; and the firemen wanting both skill and spirit, were incapable of checking its violence, so that it was feared the whole city would be destroyed. In this confusion the viceroy went thither, and immediately sent to beg Mr. Anson's assistance, who was told he might take what methods he thought proper to extinguish the conflagration. On this, the commodore went a second time, taking with him about forty of his people, who, exerting themselves with the agility and boldness peculiar to sailors, soon put an end to the fire ; and as the buildings were most of them on one floor, and the materials slight, the men escaped without any other injury than a few inconsiderable bruises. The 30th of November being at length appointed for Mr. x\nson's visit to the viceroy, he was attended from the outer gate of the city to the great parade before the emperor's palace, where the viceroy resided, by a guard of 200 soldiers ; and in fine parade he found a body of troops, to the number of 10,000, drawn up under arms, and making a fine appearance, being all new clothed on the occasion The Centurion got under sail on the 15th of October, 1743, and on the 3d of January came to an anchor at Prince's Island, in the straits of Sunda, and continued there till the 8th, taking in wood and water, when she weighed and stood for the Cape of Good Hope, where, on the 11th of March, she came to an anchor in Table Bay. Mr. Anson continued here till the 3d of April, 1744, when he put to sea, and, on the 19th of the month, was in sight of the Island of St. Helena, but did not touch at it. On the 13th of June they got sight of the Lizard, and on the evening of the 15th, to their inexpressible joy, came safe to anchor at Spithead. On his arrival Mr. Anson learned that, under cover of a thick fog, he had run through a French fleet, which was at that time cruising in the chops of the channel. COMMODORE BYRON.— 1764-65-66. His late majesty having formed a design of prosecuting discoveries in the South Seas, was pleased, in the year 1764, to give orders for carrying this design into execution ; in consequence of which, the Dolphin and Tamar ships-of-war were fitted, manned, and victualled for this expedi- 184 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. tion. Mr. Byron was commander-in-chief, and Captain Mouat had the honour of commanding under him. On the 3d of July the commodore hoisted his broad pendant, and they sailed in prosecution of the voyage. On the 13th of September they came to an anchor in the road of Rio de Janeiro, on the coast of Brazil, when the commodore paid a visit to the governor, who received him in state. Fifteen guns were fired in honour of the English flag ; and the governor afterward returned the commodore's visit on board the Dolphin. They weighed anchor on the 16th of October, and on the 22d the commodore informed the crew they were not bound, as they thought, directly to the East Indies, but on a voyage to make discoveries ; and that, on their behaving well, the lords of the admiralty had ordered them double pay, and other emoluments. On the i6th of November, after experiencing some bad weather, they steered for Cape Blanco, shaping their course agreeable to the chart of it laid down in Anson's Voyage. On the 20th saw Penguin Island and as Port Desire was said to be a few leagues to the north-west, a boat was sent out, which found it. On the 21st they entered the harbour, and the commodore, in his boat, attended by two other boats, went to sound it. He landed, and found the country all one continued down, having neither shrubs nor trees. They had a sight of four beasts, near thirteen hands high, and in shape like a deer, which they took to be guanicoes. On the 5th of December the ships got under sail, and, during that and the following day, had pleasant weather and a fine gale. They now steered for Pepys' Isle, which is described as lying in 47 degrees south latitude, but it could not be found. On the 20th ran close in shore to Cape Virgin Mary, and having ob- served asmoke on shore, and a number of guanicoes feeding in the valleys, they came to anchor. The commodore observed a number of men on horseback, riding to and fro, opposite the ship, and waving something white, which he took to be an invitation to land ; and, as he was anxious to know what people these were, he went in one boat with a party of men well armed ; the first lieutenant, with a separate party, following in another. When they came near the shore, the whole appeared to amount to 500 persons, drawn up on a stony point of land that ran far into the sea. Though the commodore did not observe they had any weapons, he made signs to retreat a little, which they readily did, and kept shouting very loud while the crew were landing. Mr. Byron now advanced alone, but as he approached, the Indians retreated ; he, therefore, made signs that one of them should come for- ward, which was complied with. The person who advanced appeared to be a chief, and was very near seven feet in height ; round one of his eyes was a circle of black paint, and a white circle round the other ; the rest of his face was painted in streaks of various colours. He had the skin of a beast, with the hair inward, thrown over his shoulders. The commodore and the Indian having coinphmented each other, in language equally unintelligible to either, they walked together toward the main body of Indians, few of whom were shorter than the height above-men- tioned, and the women were large in proportion. On the 21st of December they began sailing up the Strait of Ma- gellan, with a view to take in a stock of wood and water. On the 26th steered for Port Famine, and came to an anchor close to the shore the next day, at noon In this place they found drift-wood enough to have supplied a thousand vessels. The commodore went four miles up COMMODORE BYRON. 185 Sedger River, but could proceed no farther, the trees which had fallen across the stream impeding the boat's way. Some of these were so large, that four men joined hand in hand could not enclose them ; and, among the rest, the pepper tree was found. These woods abound in parrots and other beautiful birds. The quantity of fish that was daily taken was equal to the supply of both the crews ; and the commodore shot as many geese and ducks as furnished several tables besides his own. Both ships having taken in sufficient wood and water by the 4th of January, 1765, they sailed at four o'clock in the morning in quest of Falkland's islands ; but the wind dying away, were obliged to come to an anchor the day following. On the 12th they saw land, which was taken for De Wert's islands, and at the same time ether land to the south, which was judged to be what is called New Islands in the charts. This land consists chiefly of mountainous and barren rocks, on which were great numbers of birds. On the 14th they saw a flat island, covered with tufts of grass as large as bushes ; and on the following day the commodore sent a boat from each ship, to examine an opening which had the appearance of a har- bour ; which being discovered, they stood in for it in the afternoon, and found it excellent beyond their most sanguine hopes. Soon after this they entered another harbour, to which Mr. Byron gave the name of Port Egmont, from the title of the nobleman at that time first lord of the admiralty. This harbour is represented to be the finest in the world, and capacious enough to contain the whole navy of England, in full se- curity ; there is plenty of fresh water in every part of it ; and geese, ducks, snipes, and other edible birds, abound in such numbers, that the sailors were tired with eating them. The commodore was once unex- pectedly attacked by a sea-lion, and extricated himself from the impending danger with great difficulty ; they had many battles with this animal, the killing of one of which was frequently an hour's work for six men ; one of them almost tore to pieces the commodore's mastiflf dog, by a single bite. The commodore thought this the same place which, in Cowley's Voyage, is called Pepys' Island ; but he took possession of the harbour, and all the adjacent islands, by the name of Falkland's islands, for George the Third, King of Great Britain. On Sunday, January the 27th, they left Port Egmont, and the same day saw a remarkable head-land, which was named Cape Tamar ; soon after which they passed a rock, which Mr. Byron called the Edistone, and then sailed between that and a head-land, to which he gave the name of Cape Dolphin. The distance from Cape Tamar to Cape Dolphin is about eight leagues, and from its appearance was called Carlisle Sound, though it is since known to be the northern entrance of the strait between the two principal islands. Next day the commodore gave the name of Berkley's Sound to a deep inlet between the islands. At eight in the evening they proceeded to the westward; and the 6th of February stood in for Port Desire, at the mouth of which they came to an anchor, and had the pleasure of seeing the Florida, a store-ship, which they had expected from England. On the 19th they again sailed. On the 20th reached Port Famme, when the Dolphin and Tamar having taken as much provision out of the store-ship as they could find room for, the master received orders to sail for England. Having narrowly escaped the dreadful eflTects of a storm on the 3d of March, boats were repeatedly sent out till the 6th in search of a proper place to anchor in ; and at length the Dolphin was moored 16* 186 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. in a little bay opposite Cape Quod ; and the Tamar, which couM not work up so far, about six miles to the eastward of it. This part of the strait being only four miles over, its appearance is dreary and desolate beyond imagination, owing to the prodigious mountains on each side, which rise above the clouds, and are covered with perpetual snow. On the 12th an officer was sent in a boat, in search of a harbour ; and in two days he returned with an account that there were five bays between the ship and Cape Upright, in any one of which they might anchor securely. On the IGth, perceiving they lost ground on every tack, they came to an anchor ; but finding the ground to be rocky, they weighed again, and every man on board was on deck the rest of the day and the whole night, during which time the rain poured down on them in unremitting torrents. On the 23d again set sail, and in a few hours had sight of the South Sea, which rolled a prodigious swell on them. On the 25th two boats, which had been sent in search of anchoring places, returned with an account that they had found two, but neither of them very eligible. On the 28Lh the Tamar narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces against the rocks, by the parting of the cable to her best bower anchor. The Dol- phin, therefore, stood again into the bay, and sent her proper assistance, after which they both anchored for the night ; a night the most dreadful they had yet known. The winds were so violent as perfectly to tear up the sea, and carry it higher than the heads of the masts : a dreadful sea rolled over them, and broke against the rocks, with a noise as loud as thunder. Happily they did not part their cables, or they must have been dashed in pieces against these rocks. The ships came to an anchor on the Ith of April, in a bay which had been discovered, proposing to take in wood and water. While they remained here, several of the natives made a fire opposite the ship ; on which signals were made for them to come on board ; but as they would not, the commodore went on shore, and distributed some trifles, which gave great pleasure ; he likewise divided some biscuit among them, and was surprised to remark, that if a bit of it fell to the ground, not one of them would stoop to take it up without his permission : some of the sailors being. at this time cutting grass, for a few sheep which the com- modore had on board, the Indians instantly ran to their assistance, and tearing up the grass in large quantities, soon filled the boat. On his- return, they followed in their canoe till they came near the ship, at which they gazed with the most profound astonishment. Four were at length prevailed on to go on board ; and the commodore, with a view to their diversion, directed one of the midshipmen to play on the violin, while some of the seamen danced ; the poor Indians were extravagantly de- lighted ; and one of them, to testify his gratitude, took his canoe, and fetching some red paint, rubbed it over the face of the musician ; nor could the commodore, but with the utmost difficulty, escape the like compliment. When they had been divsrted for some hours, it was hinted to them that they should go on shore ; which they at length did, though with evident reluctance. They sailed from this bay on the 7th, and next day again encountered very bad weather, as it rained and snowed, while the wind blew a hurri- cane. On the 9th passed some dangerous rocks, which, in Narborough's Voyage are called the Judges, and on which the surf beats with prodi- gious violence. This day, contrary to expectation, a steady gale at south- west carried them at the rate of nine miles an hour, so that by eight in COMMODORE BYRON. 187 the evening they were twenty leagues from the coast on which they had encountered so many perils. On the 26th they sailed westward, bearing away for the Island of Masafuero, which they were within seven leagues of the same evening. The next day they bore away for the north of the island, and then lay by for the boats, which had been sent to sound the eastern side, but could not land for the violence of the surf. The boats returning, brought a number of fine fish, which had been caught with the hook and line : and the officer reporting that he had found a bank where they might anchor, and opposite to which was plenty of fresh water, they made sail for this bank, on which they anchored at seven o'clock on Sunday morning. The island abounds in goats, many of which were killed and sent on board, and deemed equal in flavour to the finest venison. One of the goats had his right ear sHt, so as to make it evident that some person had caught him, given him that mark of distinction, and let him go again. Various sorts of excellent fish were now so plenty, that they could catch sufficient to supply the whole crew two days, in a few hours, with hook and line only. They sailed on the 30th of April, steering variously till the 10th of May, on which, and the day following, they saw several dolphins and bonettas round the ship. For many days alter they saw great numbers of birds ; and on the 7th of June discovered land, being then in 14 degrees 5 minutes south latitude, and 144 degrees 58 minutes west longitude. The commodore steered for a small island, the appearance of which was pleasing beyond expression, being surrounded by a beach of fine white sand; and covered with lofty trees, which, extending their shade to a considerable distance, and having no underwood, formed the most elegant groves that the imagination can conceive. Several of the natives soon appeared, having long spears in their hands, who made large fires, which were answered by corresponding fires on an island to windward. A boat was sent to look out for an anchoring place, but none was to be found. At this time many of the best hands were confined to their ham- mocks with the scurvy ; while those who were able to keep the deck, looked and languished for those invigorating delicacies which were un- happily beyond their reach. The shells of turtle were strewn along the shore, and they beheld numbers of cocoa nuts, to the milk of which fruit the scurvy seldom fails to yield. The inhabitants of this island kept abreast of the ship, dancing and shouting : they sometimes shook theit spears, and then falling backward, lay motionless, as if dead, which was understood to be a threat of destruction to such as should presume to land. They lilcewise fixed two spears in the sand, on the top of which were fastened some things which waved in the air : before these they kneeled, and appeared as if invoking the assistance of the Deity against the supposed invaders. The commodore was tempted, from its appea- rance, to sail round the island ; while he was doing which, he again sent out boats to sound ; on which the natives made a most hideous outcry, took up and balanced large stones in their hands, and pointed to iheir spears. The sailors, on the contrary, made every possible sign of friend-, ship, throwing bread and other things on shore ; which they would not touch, but retired to the woods, dragging their canoes after them. The boats having reported that no anchorage could be found, the com- modore proceeded to the other island, and on the next morning brought- to at three-quaiters of a mile from the shore. Sevcrel other islands were now seen, covered with the cocoa nut tree. The natives again ran to the beach, armed with clubs and spears, using threatening gestures. I'he 188 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. commodore fired a cannon-shot over their heads, on which they retreated to the woods. The boats having been again sent out, returned with an account that no landing place could be found ; on which Mr. Byron named this paradise in appearance the Islands of Disappointment. Quitting these on the 8th of June, they discovered an island on the day following, low, and covered with various kinds of trees, among which was the cocoa nut, and surrounded with a rock of red coral. The in- habitants on the coast having made large fires, as supposed to alarm the more inland natives, they ran along the shore in multitudes, armed like those of the Islands of Disappointment. The vessels brought-to at a small inlet opening into a lake of salt water, which appeared more than two leagues wide. At this place was a little town, under the shade of a grove of cocoa nut trees. The ships advancing to the mouth of the inlet, some hundreds of the natives, headed by a kind of officer, who carried a pole, on which was fastened a piece of mat, ranged themselves up to the waists in water, making a hideous noise, till they were joined by a number of large canoes which came down the lake. At this time two boats were out in search of soundings, and the crews of them ma- king every possible sign of friendship, some of the canoes drew toward them, but with a view to haul the boats on shore : several of the natives leaping from the rocks, swam to the boats ; and one of them sprang into the Tamar's boat, snatched up a seaman's jacket, and instantly dived from the boat to the shore : another laid violent hands on a hat, but lost his prize through his ignorance, as he pulled it downward instead of lifting it from the head. They now sailed westward, and soon discovered another island, distant four leagues. The natives pursued them in two large double canoes, in each of which were about thirty armed men. At this time the boats were at a considerable way to leeward of the ships, and were chased by the canoes ; on which, the commodore making a signal, the boats turned toward the Indians, who instantly pulled down their sails, and rowed away with great rapidity. As no refreshments could be obtained, owing to the violence of the surf, the commodore returned to his former station at the inlet, and again sent the boats in search of an anchoring place. A number of the Indians were on the spot where he had left them, and were loading some large canoes, most probably to attack the boats ; on which a shot was fired over their heads, and they instantly ran away and secreted them- selves. The boats returned in the evening, with a few cocoa nuts ; and in the morning were sent out again, with all the invalids who were able to go in them. The commodore v;ent on shore this day, and saw many Indian huts, which were covered with the branches of the cocoa nut tree : they were mean buildhigs, but finely situated among groves of lofty trees. The men went naked ; but some women were seen, who wore a kind of cloth from the waist to the knee. The shore abounded with coral, and the shells of large pearl oysters, and it is probable a valu- able pearl fishery might be established here. There were uiany dogs in the huts, who kept barking constantly till our adventurers went on board. On the 12th of June sailed to another island, and as they coasted along it, the natives, armed as those of the other islands, kept even with the ship for some leagues. They fretpently plunged into the sea, or fell on the sand, that the surf might break over them, to cool and refresh themselves. The boats being near the shore, the crew made signs that they were in want of water ; on which the natives pointed farther along COMMODORE BYRON. 169 the shore, where, when the boats arrived, Ihey saw a number of houses, and whither they were followed by the Indians, many more of whom joined them at this place. The boats having got close in shore, and the ships lying at a small distance, a venerable old man, with a white beard, advanced from the house to the beach, attended by a young fellow. Having made a signal for the other Indians to retire, he came forward to the edge of the water, pressing his beard to his breast with one hand and holding a branch of a tree in the other. He now made a kind of musical oration, during which the people in the boat threw him some trifling presents, which he would neither take up, nor permit his atten- dants to touch, till he had finished his harangue, when he walked into the water, and throwing the branch to the boat's crew, he retired, and picked up their presents. Most of the natives having complied with a sign made for them to lay down their arms, one of the midshipmen swam ashore ; on which they flocked round him, admiring his clothes ; as his waistcoat pleased them most he gave it to them, which he had no sooner done, than one of them untied his cravat and ran away with it. He now thought it time to retreat to the boat, whither several of the natives swam after him : some bringing each a cocoa nut, and others fresh water in the nut shell. This island is situated in 14 degrees 41 minutes south latitude, and 149 degrees 1.5 minutes v/est longitude ; and both the islands the commodore called King George's Islands. The boats having returned on board, they sailed westward the same day ; and the next afternoon descried another island, toward which they immediately sailed, and found that it was well inhabited, and had a fine appearance of verdure ; but that a violent surf broke all along the coast. It lies in 15 degrees south, and 151 degrees 63 minutes west, and received the name of the Prince of Wales's Island. June the 17th, they concluded that land was near, from the multitudes of birds which flocked about the ship ; but they saw none till the 21st, when it was dis- covered at eight leagues distance, having the appearance of three islands, with rocks between them. These islands abounded with inhabitants, whose dweUings lined the coast ; and the beauty and fertiUty of the soil seemed to excel that of any place they had seen : but the rocks and breakers with which it was surrounded were an insuperable bar to any attempt at landing. On the 24th they discovered another island, which was named the Duke of York's Island. A terrible sea breaks round the coast, but the place itself had a pleasing appearance. The boats landed with some difticulty, and brought off a large quantity of cocoa nuts, which were a great relief to the sick. Thousands of sea-fowls were found sitting on their nests in high trees, and were so tame as to be easily knocked down ; and there were great numbers of land-crabs on the ground. This island has a large lake in the middle, but no inhabitants. On the 29th sailed northward, with a view to cross the equinoctial line, and then sail for the Ladrone islands. On the 2d of July they discovered a low flat island, abounding with the cocoa nut and other trees, and aflfording a most agreea- ble prospect. A great number of the natives were seen on the beach, many of whom, in about sixty canoes or proas, sailed, and formed a circle round the ship ; which having surveyed for a considerable time, one of the Indians jumped out of his boat, swam to the ship, ran up its side in a moment, sat down on the deck, and began laughing most violently ; he then ran about the ship, pilfering whatever he could lay hands on, which I'Hw taken from hira as fast aa stolen. This man having as many antic 190 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. tricks as a monkey, was dressed in a jacket and trousers, and afforded exquisite diversion. He devoured some biscuit with great eagerness, and having played the buffoon some time, made prize of his new dress, by jumping over the side of the ship, and swimming to his companions. Several others now swam to the ship, and running by the side to the oke that issued from its top, which is of an amazing height, and shaped like a sugar loaf. Sailed on the 20th of August, and discovered a small island, which was called Gower's Island, the people of which did not differ in any- thing material from those of the islands he had lately left. Some cocoa nuts were here procured in exchange for nails ; and the inhabitants had intimated, that they woold furnish a farther supply the next morning ; but it was then found that the current had carried the ship considerably to the south during the night, and brought them within sight of two other islands, one of which was called Simpson's Island, and the other Car- teret's Island. They fell in with nine islands in the night of the 24th, which Captain Carteret supposes to be the same that were discovered by Tasman, and are named Ohang Java ; eight of these are very small, but the other is more extensive, and are all inhabited by blacks, whose heads are woolly, like those on the coast of Africa. The next day they had sight of an island covered with verdure, which was called Sir Charles Hardy's Island, and from the number of fires seen on it, was supposed to be inhabited. This day they likewise had sight of a large island, formed of three high hills, which took the name of Winchelsea's Island. On the 36th saw a large island to the north, which Captain Carteret imagines to have been the Island of St. John, discovered by Schouten. This day were within sight of Nova Britannia, and the next morning the current drove the ship into a deep bay, which, in Dampier's Voyages, is called St. George's Bay. On the 28th they gave the name of Wal- lis's Island to a small one in a bay, off which they came to an anchor, apd were now 7,500 miles due-west from the main land of America. On the next day, after great fatigue, weighed the anchor, and sailed to a place which they called English Cove, where they immediately began to take in wood and water. They now attempted to catch fish with hooks and lines, but none of them would bite ; nor wece they much more successful with their nets ; turtle likewise were very plentiful, yet they could nol take any ; but at low water picked up some large cockles and rock oysters. From the shore they procured cocoa nuts and the cabbage of the cocoa tree, which is crisp and juicy ; this, when eaten raw, tastes like a chestnut ; but, when boiled, has a more agreeable flavour than the parsnip. It was found to be excellent when boiled with porta- ble soup and oatmeal. They likewise gathered some plumbs, which tasted like those of the West Indies, which are called Jamaica plumbs ; and by this supply of vegetables, they had soon reason to rejoice in the blessing of returning health. They left this cove on the 7th of September, and anchored on the same day almost close to a grove of cocoa nut trees, where they supplied themselves with the fruit and the cabbage in very great abundance ; and called the place Carteret's Harbour, which being formed by the main and two islands, one of them was named Leigh's Island, and the other Cocoa nut Island. On the 9th of September the anchor was weighed, and wind and current being both contrary, they steered round the coast into a channel between two islands, which channel was divided by an CAPTAIN CARTERET. 205 Other island, to which Captain Carteret gave the name of the Duke of York's Island, and near which are several smaller ones. To the south of the largest are three hills of singular form, which were called the Mother and Daughters, one of which was supposed to be a volcano, from the large clouds of smoke seen issuing from it. A point they called Cape Palliser, lies to the east of these hills, and Cape Stephens to the west ; north of which last lies an island, which took the name of the Isle of Man. Having brought-to for the night, they sailed next morning, when some of the Indians put off in canoes toward the ship ; but the wind being fair and blowing fresh, it was not thought proper to wait for them. Steering north-west by west, they lost sight of New Britain on the 11th, and it being now found that what had been taken for a bay was a strait, it was called St. George's Channel, and the island on the north of it received the name of New Ireland. In the evening they discovered a large island, well clothed with verdure, which was denominated Sandwich Island ; oflf this island the ship lay great part of the night, during which time a per- petual noise was heard, resembling the sound of a drum. When they had almost cleared the strait, the weather falling calm, a number of canoes approached the ship, and, though they could not be prevailed on to go on board, exchanged some little matters with the crew, receiving nails and bits of iron, which they preferred to everything else that was offered. Though the canoes of these people were formed out of single trees, they were between 80 and 100 feet in length. The natives are negroes, und their hair is of the woolly kind, but they have neither thick lips nor flat noses. They wore shell-work on their legs and arms, but were otherwise naked, except that their hair and beards were i)owdered with white powder, and a feather was stuck into the head above the ear. Their arms consisted of a long stick and a spear ; and it was observed, that they had fishing-nets and cordage. They now sailed west, and coming in sight of the south-west point of the island, it was called Cape Byron ; near which is an island of considera- ble extent, which received the name of New Hanover. The strait they had now passed was called Byron's Strait ; one of the largest islands they had seen, Byron's Island ; and the south-west point of New Hanover, Queen Charlotte's Foreland. On the following day they saw several small islands, which received the name of the Duke of Portland's Islands. When they had completely navigated St. George's Channel, the whole length of which is about 100 leagues, they sailed a westward course, and on the 14th of September discovered several islands. The next morn- ing some hundreds of the natives came off in canoes toward the ship, and were invited on board by every token of friendship and good will ; not- withstanding which, when they came within reach, they threw several lances at the seamen on the deck. A great gun and several muskets were now fired at them, by which some were killed or wounded, on which they rowed toward the shore ; and, after they had got to a distance, a shot was fired so as to fall beyond them, to convince them that they were not out of the reach of the guns. These people were almost negroes, with woolly hair, which they powdered ; and they went naked, except the orna- ments of shells round their arms and legs. Captain Carteret now coasted along the islands, to which he gave the general name of the Admiralty Islands. He describes them as having a most enchanting appearance, being covered with woods, groves of cocoa nut trees, and the houses of the natives. The largest of these islands is iS 2(^ VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. computed to be above fifty miles in length : and he supposes that they produce many valuable articles, particularly spices. They discovered two small verdant islands on the 19th, which were called Dufour's Island and Matty's Island, the inhabitants of which last ran along the coast with lights during the night. They had sight of two other small islands on the 24th, which were called Stephens's Islands, and which abounded with beautiful trees. On the evening of the 25ih they had sight of three islands, the natives of which came otf in canoes, and went on board the ship. They barter- ed cocoa nuts for some bits of iron, with which metal they did not seem unacquamted, and appeared extravagantly fond of it. They called it parram, and intimated, that a ship sometimes touched at their islands. These people were of the copper colour, and had fine black hair ; but their beards were very small, as they were continually plucking the hair from their faces. Their teeth were even and white, and their countenances agreeable ; their activity was such, that they ran to the mast-head even quicker than the seamen. They ate and drank anything that was ^iven them ; and had not the least degree of reserve in their behaviour. Their dress consisted only of a piece of fine matting round the waist. As the current carried the ship at a great rate, the captain had no opportunity of landing, though the Indians offered that some of their people should re- main on board, as a security for the safe return of such of the seamen as might be sent on shore. One of the Indians, on finding that none of the crew were to land, absolutely refused to leave the ship, and was therefore carried to the Island of Celebes, where he died. This man was named Joseph Freewill, and the largest of the islands was called Freewill Island ; but the natives called it Pegan ; and the names of the other two are Onato and Onello. On the evening of the 28th discovered an island from the mast-head ; but neither visited nor gave name to it. On the 12th of October saw a small island, which v/as named Current Island, from the great strength of the southerly current ; and on the following day discovered two more small islands, which were called St. Andrew's Islands. On the 26th they had sight of land, which, on the day following, they knew to be the Island of Mindanao, and coasted the south-east part of it, in search of a bay described in Dampier's Voyages, but could not find it. On the 14th of November, 1767, they reached the Strait of Macassar, situate between the Islands of Borneo and Celebes, to a point of which latter island they gave the name of Hummock Point. On the 27th crossed the equinoctial line, and got into southern latitude^ at which time they found the current setting against them, and the torna- does became violent. The crew was now diminishing by death, and weakened daily by sickness, so that there were hardly hands sufficient to navigate the vessel. On the 3d of December saw the islands called the Little Pater-nosters, which lie something more than two degrees south of the fine ; but it was out of their power to land anywhere for refresh- ment, as the winds and currents were contrary. Not a man on board was now free from the scurvy ; and when it was imagined that nothing could have aggravated their distress, they were attacked by a pirate in the mid- dle of the night of the 10th of December. It was so very dark that they could not see their enemy, who attacked them with swivel-guns and small arms ; but they returned the salute so warmly, that the pirate was sunk, and all her crew perished, after having wounded two persons on board the Swallow, and done some very trifling damage to the ship. CAPTAlfl CARTEREt. 207 By the 12th of this month they had lost thirteen of the crew, and the death of thirty others was hourly dreaded. At this time, too, the wester- ly monsoou was set in, so that it was impossible to reach Balavia ; and as they must speedily make some land, or inevitably perish, it was re- solved to attempt getting to Macassar, a Dutch settlement on the Island of Celebes. On the 13th they saw several trees fldating, and birds sit- ting on them, and tv;o days afterward came to an anchor, at little more than a league from Macassar. I,ate that night, the governor sent a Dutchman on hoard the Swallow, who was greatly alarmed to find that she was an English man-of-war, no such vessel having ever anchored there before ; and so apprehensive of danger was he, as not to venture to enter the cabin. Very early the next day the captain sent a letter to the governor, requesting permission to buy provisions, and asking shelter for the shipj till the proper season returned for sailing to the westward. Soon after an answer came, intimating, that the ship should instantly depart from the port, without coming any nearer to the town ; that she should not anchor on any part of the coast, and that the captain should not permit any of his people to land on any place that Was under the governor's jurisdiction. As the most forcible reply to this, the captain showed his dying men to the bearers, and pleaded the urgent necessity of the case. They could not but see and feel the propriety of granting refreshments and shelter to'persons in such a situation, but still said their orders were absolute, and must be obeyed. Provoked at this treat.nent, the captain declared he would anchor close to the town ; and if they then refused him neces- saries, that he would run the ship aground, and himself and crew would sell their lives as dearly as possible. Alarmed at this declaration, they begged the captain to remain in his present station till the governor should give farther orders. After several disputes, they sailed early on the 20th of December, and anchored in the road of Bonthain, a neighbouring port, on the following day. On the 18th of January a letter from Macassar informed Captain Carteret that the Dolphin, his consort, had arrived at Batavia, Having taken in wood and water, they sailed hence on the 22d of May, and on the 2d of June they had sight of the land of Java — on the follow- ing day coming to an anchor in the road of Batavia. On the 18th the captain learned that orders had been given for repairing the ship at Onrust, whither a pilot attended her, and where she came to an anchor on the 22d of June ; but as the wharfs were pre-engaged by other ships, the repairs did not commence till the 24th of July. Captain Carteret having engaged some English seamen, sailed from Onrust on the 15th of September ; and en the 23d of November camo to an anchor in Tabid Bay, in the Cape of Good Hope. The captain '"having received numberless civdities from the governor and other gen- tlemen of this place, sailed on the 6th of January ; and on the 20th anchored off the Island of St. Helena, from whence he again sailed on the 24th. On the 20th of this month a ship, which had been seen the preceding day far to the leeward, but had out-sailed the Swallow in the night, tacked and stood toward her. A boat was sent on board, in which was a young officer, who, by many artful questions, endeavoured to learn from. Cap- tain Carteret all the most important particulars of his voyage ; and this piece of finesse was aggravated, by his inventing a tale to disguise those 20S VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. of his own voyage ; for the vessel he had just left was no other than that of M. Bougainville, which was then returning from a voyage round the world. Captain Carteret learned this circumstance afterward from the lieutenant ; for the boat's crew, which had brought the French officer on board, had discovered every secret to one of the English crew who spoke French. Captain Carteret, however, kept his own secret so well, that Bougainville was not at all the wiser for the time hs had lost in the negotiation of this illiberal business. Our adventurers had sight of the western islands on the 7th of March, 1769, and came to an anchor at Spithead on the 20th of the same month, without meeting with anything farther worth recording. MONS. DE BOUGAINVILLE.— 1766-69. A SETTLEMENT having been commenced by the French on Falkland's Islands, in the month of February, 1764, the Spaniards demanded them as an appendage to the continent of South America ; and France having allowed the propriety of the demand. Mens, de Bougainville was ordered to yield possession of the islands to the Spaniards. On the 5th of December he sailed from the harbour of Brest, in the frigate La Boudeuse ; having on board the Prince of Nassau Seighen, three gentlemen who went as volunteers, eleven officers in commission, and warrant officers, seamen, soldiers, servants, and boys, to the number of 200. On the evening of the 29th of January they had sight of Rio-de-Ia- Plata, and on the morning of the 3Ist came to an anchor in the Bay of Montevideo, where the two Spanish ships, which were to take possession of Falkland's Islands, had been at anchor for some weeks. They went on shore above the colony of San Sacramento, and travelled over a prodigious extent of country to Buenos Ayres, in which there were no roads, and where the eye was their only guide. During this expedition, they slept in little hovels constructed with leather, while the tigers howled round them on every side. Mons. Bougainville particularly mentions the manner and the danger of their passing the River St. Lucia, which is wide and deep, yet amazingly rapid : being placed in a long nar- row canoe, one side of which was beyond all proportion higher than the other, a horse was fastened on each side the vessel, the master of which, pulling oft" all his clothes, got into it, and supporting the heads of the horses above the surface of the stream, drove them across in the best manner he was able, and, with some difficulty, they stemmed the rapidity of the torrent. They sailed with two Spanish ships on the 28th of Feb- ruary, J 767 ; and, on the Isf of April, Mons. Bougainville, in the name of tlie French king, surrendered the islands to Don Puente, the Spanish governor, who received it for his Most Catholic Majesty, with the cere- mony of hoisting the Spanish colours, and the firing of guns from the ships and on shore. Falkland's Islands lie in about 52 degrees south latitude, and 60 de- grees west longitude. From the entrance of the Straits of Magellan, and from the coast of Patagonia, their distance is about 250 miles. The har- bours are large, and well defended by small islands, most happily dis- posed ; and even the smallest vessels may ride in safety in the creeks, while fresh water is Cdsily to be obtained, as the small rivers which descend from the mountains discharge themselves into the sea. In the DE BOUGAINVILLE* 209 spring and autumn there are slight hoar frosts, which, being changed to a kind of dew by the warmth of the sun, are rather favourable than pre- judicial to the vegetable productions. There is seldom any thunder or lightning, nor is the climate hot or cold in any extraordinary degree. Throughout the year the nights are, in general, starlight, serene, and fair ; and, upon the whole, the climate is favourable to the constitution. The depth of the soil in the valleys is more than suflkient for the purposes of plowing. Under the first land is a layer of black earth, ten inches or more in depth ; under that again a yellow soil, beneath which are stones and slate ; but these stones are not found on the little adjacent islands. Wild vegetables in abundance are found, and used as antiscorbutics, par- ticularly water cresses, sorrel, wild parsley, a kind of maiden-hair, and a species of celery. '. Sea lions and seals are the only amphibious animals found in these parts ; but there are great varieties of fish on the coasts, scarce any of which are known in Europe. It sometimes happens that the whales, getting too near the shore, are stranded in the bays, where their remains have been seen. The only quadruped is of a species between the fox and the wolf, and our author, therefore, calls him the wolf-fox ; the tail of this animal is more bushy than that of the wolf, and he lives in a kennel which he digs in the ground, on the downs, by the sea-aide. At one time of the year the wolf-fox is so lean as to appear almost starved, from whence it is imagined that he fasts for a considerable time ; he is about as large as a sheep dog, and barks very much like one, only that his yelp is not so loud. The coasts produce land and water fowls in incre- dible numbers, many of which are the prey of falcons, hawks, eagles, and owls ; while the eggs and the young birds are destroyed by the wolf-fox. The smaller fish are destroyed by the whales, the amphibious animals, and the voracious birds, some of which are constantly flying close over the surface of the waters, while others perch themselves on the rocks to watch the event. After waiting at these islands till the 2d of June, 1767, in expectation of the Etoile store-ship fiom Europe, and finding she did not arrive, Mons. Bougainville considered, that as his vessel had only two months' provi- sions on board, it would be rashness to attempt crossing the great Pacific Ocean alone ; he therefore resolved to steer to Rio Janeiro, at which place he had appointed the Etoile to join him, in case any unforeseen acci- dent should prevent her reaching Falkland's Islands before he left the harbour of that place. They had fine weather from the 2d till the 20th of June, on which day they had sight of the mountains on the main land of Brazil, and entered Rio Janeiro the day following. At the same time a canoe was despatched from the captain of the Etoile, to inform Mons. Bougainville of the safe arrival of that vessel, which now lay in the port ; and, on the 14th of July, 1767, the anchors of the Bou- deuse and Etoile were weighed ; but, as the wind abated soon afterward, they were obliged again to bring-to, before they could get out of the har- bour. They sailed, however, on the following day ; and in the night of the 19th the main- top-sail of the Boudeuse was carried away by the violence of the wind. The vessels sailed into the Rio-de-la-Plata, and were within sight of the Maldonados on the 29th ; early in the morning of the 31st they had a view of the Isle of Lobos, and before night came to an anchor in the Bay of Montevideo. As it was necessary that Mons. Bougainville should remain in his present station till the equinox was passed, his first care A 18* 210 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. was to build an hospital for the sick, and to take lodgings at Montevideo. This being done, he repaired to Buenos Ayres, in order to hasten the provision of such necessaries as he wanted, for which he was to pay the same price as the King of Spain usually gave for the same commodities. Early on the morning of the 14th of November, 1767, they sailed from Montevideo, with a fine gale of wind at north, being in sight of land till the evening. On the 16th, and the five following days, the sea ran high and the wind was contrary. The 2d of December they had sight of Cape Virgins, about which time they made all the sail possible, as the wind was in their favour. They now saw a number of albatrosses and petrels, the last of which Mons. Bougainville says are a sign of bad weather, whenever they are seen. On the 3d of December, the wind blowing favourable for a short time, they made their best efforts to reach the entrance of the Straits of Magel- lan ; and Mons. Bougainville was seven weeks and three days in passing through it, the whole length of which, from Cape Virgin Mary to Cape Pillar, he computes at about 340 miles. On the 2 1st of March a tunny fish was taken, in the belly of which were a number of small fish, of such kinds as are known not to swim far ought to sea ; whence it was concluded, that land could not be at any great distance ; and on the following day this conjecture appeared to well founded, for four very small islands were then discovered ; but as these were too much to windward, they held on their way, steering for another island, which was almost right ahead. As the vessels advanced toward the latter, it was observed to abound with cocoa nut trees ; these grew on plats of grass, strewed with an abundance of beautiful flowers ; and the rest of the island was clothed with trees of various kinds ; but the sea running high, and no harbour being di.';covered in which our voyagers might hope for protection from the fury of its waves, they were prevented from landing ; when they had coasted the island for about two miles, they had sight of three men, who advanced hastily toward the shore. They at first imagined that these were part of the crew of some European ship, whicli had been wrecked on the coast ; and, impressed with this idea, were desirous to give the wished-for relief; but discovered their conjecture ill founded, for the people retired to the woods, from whence, in a short time, issued a number of them, supposed to be near twenty, with long staves in their hands, which they held up with an air of defiance. This done, they retreated to the woods, in which, by the help of glasses, their habitations were plainly seen. These islanders were of a copper complexion, and very tall. During the night between the 22d and 23d they had much rain, ac- compp-nied with violent thunder, while the wind blew almost a tempest. At daydawn land was discovered, which appeared to be a regular level, sufficiently clothed with verdure. Night advanced before any proper place was found for the boats to land, nor were they more successful in the morning ; wherefore they held on their course, Mons. Bougainville having called the place Harp Island. In the evening on which it was discovered, they had sight of other land, at the distance of something more than twenty miles, which had the appearance of being, what it after- ward was found to be, a cluster of islands, eleven of which were seen, and received the name of the Dangerous Archipelago. A steep mountain, which appeared to be encompassed by the sea, was discovered on the 2d of April, and received the name of the Boudoir, or Boudeuse Peak, from that of Mons. Bougainville's ship. Bearing to the DE BOUGAINVILLE. . ^29^ northward of this peak, they had sight of land, which extended farther than the eye could reach. While standing toward the land, a boat was seen coming from the offing, which soon afterward crossed ahead of the ship and joined a number of other boats, which had assembled from various parts of the island. This assemblage of boats was preceded by one which was rowed by twelve Indians, quite naked, who advanced toward the side of the ship, and held up some boughs of the banana tree. In a short time upward of 100 boats surrounded the ships, laden with bananas, cocoa nuts, and various other kinds of fruit, receiving in exchange a number of toys. In order to carry on this traffic, the voyagers held up such articles as they meant to give for the fruit, and when the natives were satisfied with the quantity offered, it was let down by the ship's side in a net or basket, and the Indians having taken it out, returned their commodities by the same conveyance ; but sometimes the basket was lowered empty, and the natives put their effects in it before they had received the European goods, without seeming to harbour the least dis- trust or jealousy of those with whom they dealt. As Mons. Bougainville coasted the island, he was charmed with tho appearance of a noble cascade, which, falling immediately from the sum- . mit of a mountain into the sea, produced a most elegant effect. On the shores, very near to the fall of this cascade, was a little town, and the coast appeared to be free from breakers. It was the wish of our adven- turers to have cast their anchor within view of such an enchanting pros- pect ; but, after repeated soundings, they found that the bottom consisted only of rocks, and they were, therefore, under a necessity of seeking another anchoring place ; and returned to the bay observed on first dis- covering land, where he hoped to find a convenient anchoring place, and where, after different soundings, the ships were at length safely moored. The natives now put off in their boats, and surrounded the ships in greater numbers than they had yet done, exhibiting many tokens of regard, and perpetually crying out Taio, which was afterward found to signify friend. The strangers were much pleased with some nails and toys which the officers and sailors gave them. These boats were crowded with women, whose beauty of face was at least equal to that of the ladies of Europe, and their symmetry of bodv much superior. The commodore and some of his officers now went on shore to take a view of the watering place, and were no sooner landed, than the natives flocked around in prodigious numbers, regarding them with looks of in- expressible curiosity ; some bolder than the rest, came and touched the French, and put aside their clothes, to find if they were formed like them- selves. A person, who appeared to be of authority, took Mons. Bougain- ville's party to his house, where they found an old' man, the father of the chief, and several women. These last paid their compliments to the strangers by placing their hands on their breasts, and frequently repeat- ing the word Taw. The old man was a truly venerable figure, whose long white beard and hair added dignity to his person, which was ex- ceedingly graceful and well formed. He had none of the decrepitude of age, no wrinkles on his face, and his body was nervous and fleshy. The house of the chief was about twenty feet in width, eighty in length, and covered with thatch, from which hn;ig a cylinder, above a yard long, formed of the twigs of the ozier, and adorned with black feathers. Having directed his guests to seat themselves on a grass-plot in front of his house, he presented them with a collation, consisting of broiled fish, water, and Sl^ VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. fruit. While regaling themselves he produced two collars, formed of oziers, and adorned with shark's teeth and black feathers. These col- lars, which resembled the prodigious large ruffs worn by the French in the reign of Francis I., were put on the necks of Mons. Bougainville and a gentleman of his party. The chief having likewise presented our author with some pieces of cloth, the French were about to take their leave of this hospitable Indian, when one of them found that his pocket had been picked of his pistol ; on which a complaint was made to the chief, who immediately reprimanded several of his household, and would have searched them all ; but this the commodore wouhl not permit, contenting himself with intimating to the chief, that the weapon which had beeui stolen would kill the thief The chief went on board Mons. Bougainville's ship the following day, and took with him a present of some fowls and a hog ; he likewise gave a full proof of the integrity of his heart, by returning the stolen pistol. His name it appeared was Ereti ; he remained on board several hours, and then went on shore with Mons. Bougainville, who by this time had made the necessary preparations for landing the sick and filling the water casks. Ereti complimented Mons. Bougainville with the use of a large build- ing, erected on the side of the rivulet for the purpose of laying up the Indian boats, which were, at the command of the chief, instantly removed. Under this roof tents were put up for the accommodation of the sick, and other tents for various uses. A sufficient number of muskets were carried on shore to arm thirty marines, all the workmen, and even the invalids, in case of necessity. Mons. Bougainville passed the first night on shore in company with Ereti, who added his supper to that of the commodore, invited a few select friends to partake of the repast, and gave orders that a crowd of Indians, whose curiosity had brought them to the spot, should be dispersed. He then desired to see some tire-works, which he beheld with a mixture of pleasure and astonishment. The camp was completed on the following day, and the building entire- ly enclosed, except at one entrance, where a guard was constantly stationed. None of the Indians were admitted into this building but Ereti and his friends of both sexes. A crowd of people were constant- ly about the place, but they made way for any one who had permission to enter, on the motion of a small stick which a Frenchman held in his hand. To this place the natives assembled from all quarters, bringing poultry, hogs, fish, fruit, and cloth ; in exchange for which they received buttons, beads, tools, nails, and trinkets of various kinds, on which they appeared to set a high value. The article of thieving excepted, every other intercourse between the French and Indians was carried on in the most harmonious manner. The seamen made several incursions into the island, unarmed, sometimes in small parties, and sometimes singly ; when the natives invited them into their houses, gave them provisions, and presented the young damsels as wives. Soon after the camp was formed, the commodore was visited on board the ship by Toutaa, the chief of a district near that of Ereti, a very tall man, and admirably well made, who was attended by several others, hard- ly one of whom was less than six feet in height. Toutaa brought with him cloth, hogs, fowls, and fruit, which he presented to Mons. Bougain ville, who complimented him with some silk stuffs, trinkets, nails, &c. The chief invited Bougainville to his house, where, in the midst of a large assembly, he presented him with a fine young girl, whom the commodore DE BOUGAINVILLE. 213 conjectures to have been one of his wives, and the musicians instantly began the bridal hymn. Early in the morning of the 12th, the cable of the Boudeuse parting, that ship ran foul of the Etoile, and at this unfortunate juncture news arrived that three of the Indians had been either killed or wounded in their huts ; and that, in consequence of this unhappy circumstance, a general terror had seized the inhabitants. The women, children, and old men, had fled up the country, taking their effects with them, and even carry- ing off the bodies of the deceased. The commodore, on receiving this intelligence, went on shore, and selecting four marines, on whom rested the suspicion of having perpetrated this foul deed, he ordered them to be put into irons in the presence of Ereti ; but apprehensive that the natives might revenge their injuries, he spent a considerable part of the night at the camp, and gave orders for a reinforcement of the guards. After ten at night the wind blew violently, the sea swelled to an enormous height, the rain descended in torrents, and the whole scene was tempestuous in a high degree. He went on board soon after midnight, when a violent squall of wind was driving the ships toward the shore. Providentially the storm was soon over, and a breeze from the shore prevented the vessels being stranded. Soon after daylight it was observed that the camp was totally destitute of its usual visiters ; not an Indian was to be seen near it, nor even a single boat sailing on the river. The natives had quitted their houses, and the whole country appeared to be depopulated. The Prince of Nas- sau now went on shore with a small party, and, at about three miles from the camp, found Ereti, with a considerable number of his subjects. When the chief recollected the prince, he advanced toward him with a counte- nance expressive of hope and terror. Many women were now with him, who, dropping on their knees at the feet of the prince, kissed his hands, and, bathed in tears, exclaimed, Taio male ! You are our friends, and you kill us ! The prince succeeded in his endeavours to inspire them with fresh confidence ; and Mons. Bougainville had the pleasure of observing, from on board, by the help of his glasses, that the natives hastened to the camp, carrying with them fowls, fruits, &c., so that there could be no doubt but that peace was re-established. He instantly left the ship, and taking with him a quantity of silk stuffs and a variety of other articles, he presented them to the principal persons, intimating how unhappy he was on account of the misfortune which had happened, and assuring them, that the perpetrators of so foul a deed should not escape unpunished. The grateful Indians caressed the commodore, the natives in general were happy that peace was restored, and the market soon became more crowd- ed than ever ; so that in two days only more refreshments were brought in than had been before, and the whole place had the appearance of a fair. The Indians now requested to see some muskets fired, but were not a little alarmed, when they found that the animals fired at were instantly killed. Soon after dawn on the 15th, when the Indians observed their visiters making preparations for their departure, Ereti came hastily on board in the first boat that was ready. He clasped in his arms, embraced, and wept over those new-made acquaintances whom he was about to part with for ever. This scene was scarcely ended, when a larger boat, in which were the wives of this generous chief, came alongside the ship, laden with • variety of refreshments. This vessel likewise brought off the Indiau 214 VOYAGES ROUND THIJ WORLD. who, on their first arrival, had slept on board the Etoile. This man was called Aotourou. Ereti presented him to Mons. Bougainville, intimating his determined resolution to sail with the strangers, and entreating per- mission that he might do so. This request being complied with, Ereti presented him to the officers respectively, saying, that he trusted a well- beloved friend to the care and protection of friends equally beloved. The chief, having accepted some presents, returned to the boat, in which were a number of weeping beauties. With him went Aotourou, to take a melancholy leave of a lovely damsel, the dear object of his regard. He took three pearls from his ears, which he delivered as a love-token to the desponding beauty ; embraced her affectionately, tore himself from her arms, and left it to time and tears to restore her serenity of mind. Otaheite produces rich pearls, which are worn by the women and chil- dren ; but these were secreted almost as soon as the French landed, and were seen no more during their stay. A sort of castanets, instruments used by the Indian dancers, are formed out of the shells of the pearl oys- ters. The only quadrupeds seen on the island were hogs, small but handsome dogs, and rats. Of winged animals there are parroquets of exquisite beauty, the feathers of which are red and blue, most happily blended ; pigeons, rather larger than ours, of a deep blue colour, and most delicate taste ; and common domestic poultry, differing in no respect from those of Europe. The hogs and fowls feed on plantains only, so that the purity of their food must ensure the goodness of their meat. Bougam- ville obtained, by his traffic with the natives, about 140 hogs and more than 800 fowls ; and he might have procured much larger numbers, if his stay had been longer. No venomous animals were seen on this island, nor any of those noxious insects which are common to, and are the great- est Curse of, hot climates. The natives are of two distinct tribes, having no personal resemblance, yet practising the same customs, associating together in the most'friendly manner, and conversing in the same dialect. The first race of these people are much taller, larger, and better proportioned than the other. Few of these are less than six feet high. The other tribe are about the middle stature, have almost the features and complexion of mulattoes, and rough, curled hair, as strong as the bristles of a hog. Aotourou was of this tribe, and the son of one of the chiefs of the island. Both tribes shave the.upper part of the face, permitting the beard on the chin to grow, and a whisker on each lip. Some bind the hair on the top of the head, while others cut it short, but all rub the oil of the cocoa nut into the hair and beard. They permit all their nails to grow to a great length; except that of the middle finger of the right hand. Among these people one cripple only was seen ; and it was supposed that he got his hurt by a fall. When an inhabitant of Otaheite dies, his body is deposited on a kind of bier, placed under a shed, to which the women resort daily, and anoint the corpse with the oil of the cocoa nut. In these places they are left till all the flesh is wasted from the bones, and then the skeleton is con- veyed to the hut of his relations, where a person, who appears to have great authority, attends, and being dressed in a habit peculiar to the oc- casion, he performs some solemn ceremonies : but how long the skeletons are kept in the houses does not appear. Bougainville endeavoured to learn of Aotourou the religious ceremonies of his countrymen ; and if they mutuaUy understood each other, it will appear that the people of Otaheite are superstitious in a high degree ; that the supreme authority is vested in the priests ; that their principal Deity is called Ebi-t-Era, DE BOUGAINVILLE. 215 that is, King of Light, or of the Sun ; besides whom they acknov.-ledge a number of inferior divinities, some of whom produce evil, and others good ; that the general name of these ministering spirits is Eatoua ; ani that the natives suppose two of these divinities attend each affair of con sequence in human Ufe, determining its fate either advantageously o« otherwise. The principal people on the island appear to have many wives ; and ou. authors thinks polygamy is common among them all. The rich are chief ly distinguished from the poor by keeping a greater number of the fail sex ; for universal love is the characteristic of the inhabitants of Otaheite. Otaheitans are ingenious in the construction of their fishing tackle, the hooks of which are of mother-of-pearl, and wrought as nicely as if with European tools. With threads drawn frorn the American aloe they form their nets, which are made like those of France and other nations of Europe. Their houses, too, are exceedingly well built, and the palm leaves, with which they are thatched, are laid on with great skill and taste. Their boats are of two kinds ; one very large, hollowed out of huge frees, and finished with much taste, parts of other trees being added as ornaments ; the other smnll, and of much ruder construction. In order to go from one island to another, they fix beams of wood from the starboard side of one vessel to the larboard of the other, leaving an inter- mediate space of something more than a yard ; and over the stern of both the boats they erect a kind of hut, lightly built, and covered with reeds, which serves as a repository for their provisions, and a shelter against the inclemency of the weather. The boats thus lashed together never overset, and are, therefore, much in use among the people of superior rank ; the sails of these vessels are nearly square, and consist of mats, stretched out by means of pieces of cane. Aotourou informed the commodore, that an English ship had arrived at Otaheite about eight months before the French touched at that island. This was the vessel commanded by Captain WaUis ; and he ascribes the knowledge of iron, which was observed among the natives, to this visit of the English, especially as they call it Aouri, which is not very unlike our word iron. Mons. Bougainville now departed from Otaheite, and on the morning of the ICth of April, 1768, discovered what he thought to be three other islands, but it was afterward found to be only one. In the beginning of May three islands were discovered at the distance of ten or twelve leagues to the north-west. The commodore had given directions to steer between them, when a boat, with five Indians, was observed coming off toward the ship. She advanced very near, but, though every sign of friendly invitation was made, not one of them would venture on board. They had no kind of clothing but a bandage round the waist ; and as they could not be prevailed on to come up the ship's side, Aotourou stripped himself, leaving on nothing more than what they wore, and addressed them in the language of Otaheite ; but they under- stood not a word of what he said. On the morning of the 5th they dis- covered a most beautiful island, consisting of alternate mountains and valleys, clothed with the richest verdure, and finely shadowed by the spreading branches of the cocoa nut and a variety of other trees. Near the westernmost point of this island is a ledge of rocks, and the sea breaks With violence on many parts of the coast, so that it would be difficult to land, except hi very few places. On the following day another island was seen to the westward of the ship's course, in the neighbourhood of which were two smaller islands; to these islands the commodore gave the 216 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. general name of Archipelago of the Navigators. On the morning of the 11th another island was discovered, which received .the name of the Forlorn Hope ; but for what reason does not appear. The ships now steered a westerly course, and early on the morning of the 22d two islands were discovered, one of which received the name of Aurora, from the early hour on which it was first seen, and the other that of Whitsuntide Isle, from the day which gave birth to its being so named. In the afternoon mountainous lands, at thirty miles distance, were seen, appearing, as it were, over and beyond the Island of Aurora. On the 23d it was discovered that this was a separate island ; the ap- pearance being lofty, its descent steep, and the whole clothed with trees. Bougainville gives the following description of the natives of this island, which he called the Island of Lepers, from observing, that many of the inhabitants were afflicted with the leprosy : Some of them are mulattoes, and others perfect negroes ; their hair woolly, and generally black, but in some instances of a very light brown, approaching to a yellow. Few women were seen among them, but those few were equally disagreeable with the men, who are represented as low in stature, ill-favoured, and disproportionably made. On the 23d more land was discovered, which, on the 25th, was observed to enclose almost all the horizon, so that the ships were surrounded in one extensive gulf, while the coast of the newly discovered country contained many other gulfs, or large inlets, across which several boats were observed rowing, from one shore to the other. The night of the 25th was spent in tacking ; the number of isles now seen was so great that they could not be counted, nor could their termination be discerned. On the morning of the 27t1i they again sailed, and in a few hours had sight of a fine plantation of trees, between which there were regular walks, resembling those of an European garden. Many of the natives were seen near this spot, and as an inlet was observed at no small dis- tance, the commodore ordered the boats to be hoisted out ; but they found that it was impracticable to land. They now quitted this great cluster of islands, which received the general name of Archipelago of the great Cyclades, which, it is conjectured, occupies no less than three degrees of latitude, and five of longitude. Mons. Bougainville says, that these islands are not the same that Quiros called Tierra Austral del Espiritu Santo ; but that Roggewein saw the northern extremity of them, which he denominated Groningen and Thienhoven. On the night between the 4th and 5th of June some breakers were seen, at half a league's distance, by the light of the moon. In the morn- ing it appeared to be a low, flat, sandy isle, abounding in birds, which re- ceived the name of the Shoal of Diana. A sand-bank was discovered on the 6th, on which the sea broke violently, and the tops of rocks were seen at intermediate spaces. On the 10th, before daybreak, an agreeable fra- grancy impregnated the air, announcing that land was near ; and it was accordingly discovered before sunrise. This is described as a most delicious country, divided near the sea-coast into groves and plains, behind which the land rises, in the form of an amphitheatre, till the tops of the mountains are lost in the clouds. On the 18th not less than nine or ten islands were discovered, and on the 20th a still greater number. On the 25th high land was discovered, which appeared to terminate m a cape, which they doubled with a degree of transport that may be more easily conceived than described, as it was the point they had wished for a sight of, from a certainty that it would DE BOUGAINVILLE. 217 enable them to quit for ever the Archipelago of islands, amid which they had been so long in hourly danger of shipwreck or starving. This cape was called Cape Deliverance, and the name of the gulf of the Louisiade was given to a bay, of which the cape forms the easternmost point. July the 2d a cape was discovered, which was called Cape I'Averdi, on which were mountains of an astonishing height. On the 4th other mountainous land was discovered, from which came off five or six In- dians, and, after lying on their oars some time, accepted some trifles which were thrown to them, exhibiting some cocoa nuts, saying, bouca, houca^ onelle ! and seemed greatly pleased when the French repeated them. They then intimated that they would fetch some cocoa nuts, but they had scarcely left the ship's side, when one of them discharged an arrow, by which, however, no person was wounded. Two more islands were seen on the 5th, and, as the wood and water were expended, and disease reigning aboard, the commodore resolved to land here, and on the following afternoon the ships came to an anchor. Two huts were discovered on the bank of a rivulet, not far from the encampment, and a boat, near which were seen the remains of fires, some calcined shells, and the skeletons of some animals' heads, which were taken for those of the wild boar. Some fresh bananas were found, which proves that the natives had but lately left the place. An extraordinary incident occurred. A seaman, looking for shells, found a plate of lead buried in the sand, on which the following letters were very visible : HOR'D HERE ICK MAJESTY'S The mark of the nails with which the lead had been fastened appeared ; and It IS plam, that the natives must have torn off the plate and broken it. This gave rise to a diligent search, and, at about six miles from the watering place, the very spot was found where some Enghsh ship had been before. In the afternoon of the 24th a favourable breeze enabled the ships to get out to sea. Bougainville remarks, that this country must be New Britain, and that the great bay must be the same which Dampier calls St. George's Bay ; but that he had the happiness to land on a part of it where his wants could be supplied by the inhabitants. On the 3l8t a number of Indian boats attacked the Etoile with a volley of stones and arrows ; but a single discharge of the musketry got rid of these troublesome companions. On the 4th of August two islands were seen, which are conjectured to be the same which Dampier distinguishes by the names of Matthias and Stormy, or Squally Island. On the 5th a third island was seen, and then the northern point of New Britain, which lies only 41 minutes south of the land. On the 7ih a flat island was seen, covered with trees, abounding with cocoa nuts, and certainly well inhabited, as appeared from the great number of houses that were seen on the shore! l-ishing boats m multitudes surrounding the island; but the fishermen took no notice of the ships. This received the name of the Island of Anchorets. From this lime till the end of the month innumerable small islands were observed every day ; the boat having landed on two islands, which neither produced any fruits, nor appeared to be cultivated, and in- dicated no signs of being inhabited, the ship was on the point of return- ing, when an Indian rowed up to the ship's boat, without expressing the ^ast sign of fear or astonishment. The Frenchmen intimated, that they wanted food and liquor ; on which he presented them with a kind of meal and some water; m return for which they gave him a looking-glass, a 218 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. handkerchief, and some other trifles, which he received with indifference, and 'anghed at the donors. It was conjectured that this negro had de- serted from one of the adjacent islands which have been settled by the Dutch. Tli€ number of them were formerly seven, but they are novv reduced to five by earthquakes. The crew of the Boudeuse took a turtle on this sp&t of not less than 200 weight. Early in the morning of the 31st our voyagers had sight of the Island of ('eram, which runs in a parallel east and west, abounds in lofty moun- tains, and is panly cleared and partly in its original state. At midnight a number of fires attracted their attention to the Island of Boero, where there is a Dutch factory, at the entrance of the Gulf of Cajeli, which the French had sight of at daybreak. Their joy on this occasion is not to be expressed ; for at this time not half of the seamen were able to per- form any duty, and the scurvy had raged so violently, that no man on board wa» perfectly clear of it. What few provisions were on board were absolutely rotten, and stunk intolerably. The astonishment of Aotourou, at this first sight of an European set- tlement, may be more easily conceived than described. He regarded every object with an intenseness of curiosity scarcely to be satisfied ; but he was particularly charmed with the hospitality of tlie Dutch. He supposed everything freely given, as he did not see anything returned by way of barter. Bougainville says, he behaved sensibly with respect to the Dutch, to whom he intimated of the consequence he was in his own country, and that his present voyage was merely pleasurable, with friends whom he esteemed. His constant practice was to imitate the manners of the French, both in their visits and rural amusements. The knees of this Indian being distorted, he attributed to that circumstance his not being taken with the commodore on his first visit to the resident, and actually desired some of the seamen to press their weight on his knees,, to make them straight. They sailed on the 7th of September, and on the 13th the ships were surrounded with Indian boats, bringing parroquets, cockatoes, fowls, eggs, and bananas, which the natives sold for Dutch money, or exchanged for knives. These people were inhabitants of a considerable district on the mountains of Button, opposite the place where the ships lay at anchor. On this spot the land is cleared and cultivated, the property of different persons being divided by ditches. Some of the fields are enclosed by hedges, and there are houses in these fields ; besides which there are several villages. By daylight, on the 19th, they were within about a league of the coast of Celebes, which in this part is described as one of the finest countries in the world. Inamense herds of cattle graze on the plains, which are adorned with groves, while the coast is one continued plantation of the cocoa nut tree. The plains are in most places cultivated and covered with houses, while the maintains behind them add dignity and ornament to the whole picture. On the morning of the 26th the coast of Java ap- peared with the rising sun. Having come to anchor for the night, the ships sailed early in the morning of the 27th, and on the following night came to an anchor, in fear of having past the port of Batavia ; but having sight of that town on the morning, they sailed into, and soon anchored in the road, happy to have, after so many toils, difficulties, and dangers, reached a spot which they conceived would soon put a period to all their misfortunes, by ensuring them a safe arrival in Europe. The ships sailed thence on the 16lh of October, 1768. and cleared the M. DE PAGES. 219 Straits of Sunda on the 19th, in the afternoon. By this time the crew were all perfectly recovered of the scurvy, but a few remained ill of the bloody-fiux. On the 20th the ships were in sight of the Isle of France, and on the 8th of November the Boudeuse anchored in the port of that island ; the Eioile, which had been unavoidably left behind, an- choring in the same port on the following day. They sailed from this the 12lh of December, 1768, leaving the Etoile behind them, to undergo some necessary repairs. Without encountering any singular accident, they had sight of the Cape of Good Hope on the 18th of°January, and came to an anchor in Table Bay on the following morning. Bougainville quitted this on the 17th, anchored off St. Helena on the 4th of February, where he remained till the 6th ; and on the 25th joined the Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret. Nothing material happened from this time till they had sight of the Isle of Ushant, when a violent squall of wmd had nearly blasted the hopes of the voyage. On the 15th the commodore bore away for St. Maloes, which he entered on the following day, after an absence of two years and four months from his native country ; during all which time he had buried only seven of his crew, a circumstance that will be deemed truly astonishing, when we reflect on the variety of dangers they had encountered and the amazing changes of climate they had experienced. M. DE PAGES— 1767-71. M. DE Pages having found an opportunity of gratifying his predilec- tion for travelling, and of realizing some of the schemes he had formed, embarked at Rochfort, in 1766, for the Island of St. Domingo ; and after despatching his business there, sailed from Cape Francjois, in a French vessel bound for New Orleans, on the last day of June, 1767. On the 28th of July they anchored opposite to New Orleans, about thirty leagues from the mouth of the river. The harbour is large and commodious. The houses here are built of brick, and some of the public structures are e.vtremely handsome. The complexion of the people is fair ; they are personally robust, and in character cheerful and manly. The popalation, however, is not very considerable ; for many planters and merchants disperse themselves up the country, and only visit the capital during their intervals of industry and traffic. M. de Pag6s, having re- covered a little from his fatigues, began to make inquiries respecting the practicability of travelling by land to New Spain ; and learning that the last French settlement, named Nachitoches, was only seven leagues distant from the first Spanish port of Ada^s, he resolved to undertake this perilous journey. At the distance of eighty leagues from the entrance of the Mississippi they arrived at the confluence of the Red River, up which they sailed, and bid adieu to the noble scenery which had so long charmed their sight. This stream was comparatively languid and mean ; the woods appeared dwarfish, and the soil ungenial. The port of Adaes consists of about forty mean huts, constructed of stakes driven into the ground. There is a kind of fort, called the Presidio ; and at a little distance stand a church and a convent of Franciscans. According to the best information M. de Pages could receive, Mexico was distant no less than 550 leagues. Thus precluded from proceeding, unless he could form a kind of caravan, our traveller accidentally heard that the governor of the province, who was 220 VOYAGES ROUND THE W0RLJ3. recalled to Mexico, at that time lay ill, about fifty leagues distant, at a place called Naquadoch. This gentleman he resolved to join, and throw himself on his protection. On his arrival he soon recovered his health, and had the pleasure to meet with a kind reception from the governor. I'hey set out on the 2d of November, being in all fifteen persons, with many mules and horses. In the province of Tegas, particularly on the banks of its rivers, grow noble forests of oaks and cypresses, which, singly viewed, have often a very picturesque appearance. Roebucks weie seen in flocks ; and, unawed by man, every animal seemed to con- sider itself ii6 the denizen and the master of the soil ; even the birds, which are naturally timid, perched on the backs of the mules. On the last day of November they arrived in safety at the settlement of San Antonio, having travelled 250 leagues. On the 20th of January, 1768, they arrived at Sartille, 160 leagues distant from San Antonio. This is a pretty large and populous town, occupied both by Indians and Spaniards. The churches and squares are not inelegant, and she streets are broad and clean. A number of mer- chants have fixed their residence here, because it is the chief mart foi Indian productions. The Spaniards, under an aflfectation of generosity, are both illiberal and selfish ; in short, they have all the pride and state- liness of Castile, without the noble and generous qualities of the genuine Spaniard. Here, for the first time in his travels, our author met with excellent wheaten bread. The gardens too produce many of the Euro- pean fruits and vegetables ; and the climate seems to be one of the most delightful in the world. On the 10th of February they continued their journey ; and, as they were now entering on a country liberally supplied with all the neces- saries of life, they were relieved from the barthen of carrying their pro- visions. On the second day of his journey he arrived at the celebrated mines of Potosi, near which is a handsome, well-built town of the same name, s-urrounded by beautiful gardens. The streets are well laid out, the public buildings magnificent, and the people opulent. But the In- dians seemed grievously oppressed throughout the whole province ; and seem reluctantly to bear their yoke. The surrounding country is full of mineral riches, and still there is a great deal of real, though concealed, poverty ; for the facility with which money is acquired induce habits of dissipation, which lead to distress. Soon after leaving this pJace, our traveller ascended mountains of considerable elevation ; and for three days saw nothing but large com- modious villages, that intimated his approach to the capital, which he descried from the heights on the 2Sth of February, and the same day had the pleasure to enter Mexico. It is well known that this superb city stands in the centre of an extensive lake, connected with the main land by causeways, raised to a great height above thejevel of the water. The causeway by which our traveller entered the capital was at least 100 feet broad and three miles long. It rests on a series of arches, kept in excellent repair, which give a free passage to the briny waters of the lake. The city of Mexico is about six leagues in circumference, and is defended only by barriers in the form of turnpike gates. The streets in general are broad, run in straight lines, and are adorned with elegant houses, three or four stories high. The public buildings are most mag- nificent ; and the walks, squares, and gardens are delightful. After staying here three weeks, in expectation of some baggage coming up, and finding that it was delayed by the illness of a person to whosa M. DE PAGES. 221 care it was intrusted, M. de Pag6s resolved rather to proceed without it, than lose the chance of the galleon's sailing from Acapulco. Accord- ingly ho set out on the 38lh of March, with no other companion than two mules. His impatience to get to the end of his journey was so great, that he overlooked losses and inconveniences. Acapulco is a miserable little place, though dignified with the name of a city ; and, being surrounded with volcanic mountains, its atmosphere is constantly thick and unwholesome. The harbour, however, is safe, beautiful, and extensive : and being the ordinary port for the Manilla galleon, it derives an importance from this circumstance, which has rendered it famous over all the world. During the time that our traveller sojourned here, they had three slight shocks of an earthquake. At first he perceived the ground to tremble under him, and heard a noise like the rattling of a carriage over a rough pavement. Being then half asleep, he did not immediately guess the cause ; but he was soon completely awakened by the screams of women and children, who ran about the streets pouring forth their prayers, and exclaming, in one voice, " Ave Maria ! Ave Maria Santissima !" On the 2d of April, 1768, they set sail on their passage to Manilla. The ship was only of 500 tons burthen, and was so crowded as to present an idea of horrid confusion. Each common sailor was allowed a couple of servants ; consequently, the domestics were much more numerous than their masters ; and, being all without order and discipline, gave occasion to terrible uproar. Having reached the thirteenth degree of latitude, they stood to the south-west with a faint breeze. During the night they had frequent lightning, accompanied with loud claps of thun- der. Soon after, the wind freshening, the sky became clear, and the rate of their sailing was accelerated, with the finest weather and the most beautiful sea that could be conceived. Nothing particular occurred during the voyage for many days. On the 9th of June they discovered the high mountains of Guam, one of the Marian Isles, and came to an anchor the following day off that island, opposite a small fort. This fort is three leagues from the principal town, which is of some extent, and the ordinary residence of the governor. Having taken in fresh water and provisions, they put to sea again on the 1.5th of June. Hitherto their passage had been extremely favoura- ble, and they were now only 100 leagues from the Philippine Islands ; but here the sky became suddenly overcast, and the weather rough and tempestuous. On the 17th the storm abated, when they found they had been carried greatly to the northward of their course, as it was a month since they had been able to take an observation. After a dead calm, and another storm of five days' duration, at last they came in view of Cape Spiritu Santo ; and having still a very dangerous passage of 100 leagues to Manilla, it was determined to winter on the Isle of Samar, where they anchored in the spacious road of Palapa, formed by three small islands, on the 1st of August. Samar is blessed with such a fertile soil, that it rewards the industry of the husbandman at least forty-fold. Besides other grain, it produces a considerable quantity of rice. The common food, however, of the natives is potatoes, yams, and a root named gaby. Agreeably to the example of the Indians, our traveller lived entirely on roots, whose saccharine taste is more pleasant, and their qualities more nutritious, than the uniform use of insipid boiled rice. At first, this kind of food seemed heavy and fiatulent ; but soon became familiar to the stomach. He had, 19* 222 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. likewise, plenty of pork for his consvimption, and sometimes eggs ; be« sides a variety of delicious fruits, among which the cocoa nut bore dis- tinguished pre-eminence. The common salute between the sexes, and of affection among relations, is here preceded by a gentle aspiration of incense on that part of the face to which the lips are meant to be applied. The women wear an apron, which, after passing several times round the v/aist, falls down to the toe ; and some of them have a petticoat so very thin and transparant, that modesty obliges them to tuck up a corner of it in their girdle, by which one leg is exposed. Their shift ia shorter than that of the men ; but their head-dress is not very different, except that they roll their hair high on the crown. Though they had been favoured with many intervals of fine weather, the wind v/as not propitious for their sailing till the end of September. On the 7th of October, having got everything on board, they st(3ered for Manilla. In passing the Straits of San Bernardino, they found a most rapid current, attended with whirlpools ; but the direction of the stream being generally in their favoui:, and the wind increasing, they made a pretty rapid progress. Pursuing their course, and passing several islands, on the 15th of October they anchored in Port Oavite, to the north-east of the Bay of Manilla. Cavite is the harbour chiefly frequented by the king's ships, while in' the Philippine Isles. It is formed by a tongue of land, on which stands an arsenal defended by excellent batteries of great extent. The town of this port is named St. Rocb, and is well peopled with Indians, who make active sailors and useful workmen. It stands about two leagues from Manilla. The city of Manilla is of considerable extent ; the streets are hand- some, and the houses are built in a convenient style. The inhabitants of the first distinction are affluent, and the generality are in easy circum- stances. The taste for expense, luxury, and debauchery, however, is much less strong than in the Spanish American settlements. The gay, simple, and ingenuous manners of the Indians seem to have in some measure subdued the haughty and arrogant temper of the Spaniard ; and an amiable example, to have been copied with a good effect by the Christians. The river which forms the harbour for trading ships, flows tinder the city walls, and separates Manilla from the town of St. Croix. This last is almost equally well built with the capital, and is populous in Indians and Spaniards. At a small distance on the opposite bank of the river, on the same side with Manilla, are several considerable towns, chiefly occupied by the natives. Few merchants or mechanics reside within the walls of Manilla. The great seat of manufacture, and the emporium of merchandise, is Parian, on the farther side of the river, which is pretty well built, and principally inhabited by the industrious Chinese. Among the inhabitants of Manilla are Armenian merchants, Malays, natives of the Malabar coast, and of the kingdom of Siam, besides a few .Japanese, who have been accidentally thrown on the coast, and have fixed their residence here. It is a law of the empire of Japan, that no subject shall sail out of the sight of land under pain of death ; hence, such as happen to be forced by the violence of the wind and weather to a different shore, renounce every idea of ever returning to their native land. With an extreme deference for their superiors, they are brave, sober, and intelligent. In their deportment they are brave and sedate ; hardy and robust in their persons ; and, though capa- ble of enduring the severest toil, are little disposed to submit to more than they can well avoid. H. DE PAGES, 22a As there was no ship to sail from Mauilla sooner than that which was bound for Batavia, M. de Pag6s chose to embrace this opportunity of resuming his travels ; and accordingly sailed from Manilla on the 7th of March, 1789, on board a small vessel bound for Batavia ; and, without any remarkable occurrence, anchored in that road on the 15th of April. M. de Pages found much entertainment in rambling about the streets of Batavia, each of which presents the gay and pleasant effects of a beautiful promenade. On either side is a regular row of houses, veneered with a sort of tessellated bricks. Along the sides of each house, two or three steps from the ground, runs a terrace, which is separated from the adjoining building by benches, and covered with tents or booths, for the accommodation of the proprietor and his friends. Beneath this ter- race is a space six or seven feet wide, paved with flag-stones, which forms a path for foot passengers. Contiguous to this is a much larger space, covered with fine sand and gravel for carriages ; and, last of all, appears a row of bushy evergreens, cut in fan form, which lines each side of a canal of running water, about thirty yards wide. They set sail on the 2d of August, 1769, and doubling Bantam, they entered the Straits of Sunda. The wind soon proving unfavourable, and provisions growing short, it was first proposed to put into Rajapour, on the main land : but the wind afterward shifting to their wish, they held on their course for Bombay, and soon anchored off that island. The ship having despatched her business, our traveller continued his voyage in her to Surat, where they arrived on the 7th of September. This is a very large and beautiful road, but much exposed to winds, and too remote from the land to be commodious. M. de Pag6s proceeded, on the 6th of December, by the way of Bassan, to Salset, an island in the vicinity of Bombay, from which it is separated by a small channel. This is a very pleasant spot, though the soil is not fertile. The blossoms of various fruits and flowers perfume the air ; and at Pary, near the centre of the island, where our author took up his abode, no situation could be more delightfully rural. Here he formed an acquaintance with several Bramins, from whom he received, in many instances, much kindness and civility. Having made a considerable stay on this island, about the end of January, 1770, having learned that a French vessel had anchored at Surat, he was desirous to embrace this opportunity of writing to his friends in Europe. Departing, therefore, from Salset, in five days he arrived at Danou, whence it was easy to have letters conveyed to Surat. As he returned by Bassan, he had a second opportunity of contemplating with admiration the simple, but civilized, manners of the natives. In the genius of the people, however, are cer- tain shades of difference, chiefly arising from the variety of religious opinions, or the diversity of origin. The Portuguese are vain and mso- lent ; the Mahometans, with all their simplicity, are prone to pride, and a haughty opinion of themselves : while the Gentoos, and particularly the Bramins, are unaffectedly simple, gentle, regular, and temperate. M. de Pag6s observes, that though all public offices centre in the Bramins, they are peculiarly affable and condescending, and appear to bo perfectly unacquainted with the meaning of " the insolence of office," a phrase so well understood in Europe. The different chambers of admi- nistration, as well as the courts of justice, are open to the inspection of the public ; while those who preside in them are equally accessible to the lowest as the highest. On the 20th ai April they set sail for Bassora, in company with aa 224 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. English armed vessel, that protected them through the gulf which i« much infested by pirates. In thirteen days they dropped anchor at Mascate, which lies without the Straits of Ormus, and, consequently, is a favourable situation for trade. Hence it serves as an em^pcrium for the commerce of India and Persia. M. de Pag6s took this opportunity of going ashore, where he met with a native of Ispahan, who acted as agent for French affairs in this city. The houses are miserably built, but the number of fine gardens gives the place a cheerful appearance High and almost inaccessible mountains surround it, and a handful of men may guard the access by land against a whole army. The iman of this kingdom affects to be the only genuine descendant of Mahomet. He possesses an extensive territory, and lives in great splendour in his capi- lal, about five days' journey from Mascate. Bassora is subject, under the grand seignior, to the Bashaw of Bagh- dad : who, however, possesses but a very limited authority, and finds it expedient to exercise much discretion in his conduct both to the Curds and Arabians. The English possess the greatest part of the Bassora trade ; and as the Arabs, who compose the bulk of the inhabitants, are little civilized, and as the Turks might be inimical to their interests, they have had the address, under various pretexts, to get 500 national troops . stationed ashore ; and as their ships lie at anchor within gun-shot of the town, they are in a condition to overawe the inhabitants on any emergency that may render their interference requisite. In the exercise, however, of a most extensive commerce, the English have discovered the good policy of appearing open and liberal in their transactions with strangers, and, as merchants, are deservedly esteemed. M. de Pages having waited on the French consul on the 25th of June, was politely received by him. Learning that a caravan had set out for Aleppo only fifteen days before, he saw with regret the opportunity he had lost of crossing the desert, and feared lest he should be detained here for a long space before the departure of an other. His fears, however, were of no long duration. A caravan of Bedouins, or Arabian shepherds, on their way to Aleppo, were now approaching the town ; and having sent to inquire if any passengers were desirous to take the advantage of their protection, the Frerith consul obligingly equipped M. de Pages for tJiis expedition ; who, having assumed the Turkish habit, and made his best acknowledgments to his beneficent countrymen, he departed, after being no more than three days in Bassora. The wealth of an Arab consists in his flocks and his herds. His horses, and particularly his mares, are of great value ; and, as he is fond of horsemanship, they are his greatest favourites. An Arabian horse feeds only once a day, and then moderately, and at the same time that he is one of the fleetest animals in the world, he is also one of the most ab- stemious. The camel, though less valued, is of no less consequence to his master. He serves to transport his family and property from one part of the desert to another, and besides is an article of traffic for grain and other necessaries of life. As the general aspect of the desert is that of a vast plain, bounded on all sides by the horizon, in vain does the roving eye of the traveller seek to rest on some intervening object ; and, there- fore, after flitting over a dismal waste of gray sand and scorched bram- bles, it returns at last, languid and fatigued, to enjoy a little relaxation in a variety of herds and other Arabian property with which it is surrounded. A deep and mournful silence reigns over the dreary landscape ; neither beast, bird, nor insecS is seen to diversify the sad unifprmity of the scene. k. DB PAaEfl. 225 Aft^r three days' farther progress, toward evening, they descrifevl about kwelve Arabs with a number of camels. The chief of the caravan, tempted perhaps by the smallness of the party, ordered his men to give chase ; and in their flight they dropped some linen, bottles, and clubs. This exploit was by no means agreeable to M. de Pages ; he reflected on the probable consequences of it — he f»lt for its injustice. The night, however, passed without molestation, and next morning they resumed their journey ; but about noon, on a sudden, they saw a body of armed men nding full speed toward them. The Bedouins stopped their camels^ and entered into a conference with a messenger, who came to treat with them on the part of the enemy. ]Vo agreement, however, could be made ; the Arab returned to his friends, and the people of the caravan flew to arms. The enemy advanced in order of battle, to the number of 500 men, while the force on our traveller's side consisted only of 150. The Be- douins, however,' waited their approach with steadiness and resolution, shouting Alia ou Alia ! an invocation to God to witness the justice of their cause. A running fight soon commented ; while the Arabs, trust- ing to their numbers, seemed disposed to surround the caravan, and de- clined coming to close quarters. The engagement continued to be maintained in this indecisive manner till the approach of night, when the main body of the enemy, retiring to a considerable distance from the caravan, gave the musketeers an oppor- tunity of closing their ranks. On the side of the Bedouins, none were killed nor wounded ; while they boasted of having killed some men and camels belonging to the enemy. In a short time many fires were lighted up by the Bedouins, and they began to form themselves into circles, and to whisper to each other. Our traveller conceived that some secret enterprise was in agitation ; and in a short time they began to saddle their camels ; while his conductor gave him notice of the intended flight, and advised him to abandon the most weighty part of his provisions, and to stick fast to his diomedary. After riding with all their might three leagues, a party of seven persons, of whom M. de Pages was one, happening to be together, resolved to detach themselves entirely from the scattered remains of the caravan ; and what became of the rest he never knew. By making a large circuit round the region they had just traversed, they resumed their former direction with- out seeing any more of their friends or enemies. After a short halt in the evening, the Bedouins judged it necessary to proceed, and the following morning they discovered the banks of the Euphrates, on which stood a solitary building ; but suddenly observing a company of Arabs> they turn- ed the heads of their camels, and fled full speed. Next day having rested in some hollows, they continued their journey along the sides of the hills as soon as it was dusk, from the dread of falling in with the natives. This caution proved extremely fortunate ; for next morning, having gained the first ridge, and looking down upon the plain, they saw it crowded with Arabian camps, aad could not help congratulating them- selves on their escape. Harassed by marches and countermarches, by fear, fatigue, and want, our traveller had such a confusion of ideas, that he could not ascertain the situation of the place near which they were ; but thought it corres- ponded most with that of the^ ancient city of Damascus. This town is large and populous. The houses toward the streets make but an indifferent appearance ; but have a handsome garden frout. The city contains manufactures of ditTerent kinds, and tlie markets are S^S tdYAGES ROUND THE tVORLf). elegant and well supplied. The district inhabited by the Christians is mean, and in every respect inferior to the other quarters of the town. The great trade and population of Damascus, as well as the high vene- ration it holds among the Mussulmen, originate from its being the place of rendezvous for the Mahometan pilgrims of Europe, and part of Syria, on their way to Mecca ; henc^ it has been dignified v/ith the title of Mahomet's Heel. This caravan is conducted by the Bashaw of Damascus, who receives a considerable sum from the Porte on this account, as well as to main- tain the military force, and to keep certain castles in the desert in repair. At fixed stations the caravan of Damascus is joined by the pilgrims from Bagdad and Cairo, who all arrive at Mecca, either at the solemnity of Courban Beyran, or Abraham's Sacrifice ; or at the end of Ramadan, corresponding to the Jewish passover. The Jesuits of Damascus were kind and attentive to M. de Pages to the last degree ; and in a city where the people are uncommonly cruel and ferocious, and which, properly speaking, does not contain one resident European, their hospitality was the more gratefully felt. At his departure, after passing nearly a week in Damascus, these good fathers furnished him with a guide to Baruth,- on the borders of the Mediterranean. They arrived at Baruth about nine in the morning, when M. de Pag6^ went to a convent of Capuchin friars, from whom he received a hearty welcome. The superior of this convent gave our traveller all the infor- mation he wanted respecting his route to Quesrouan, a district of Ijeba- non, which he was inclined to visit ; and after two day's stay at Baruth, in which city Christians and Mahometans live on friendly terms, he con- tinued his journey. The impregnable situation of the country of Quesrouan has naturally pointed it out as an asylum for all the professors of Christianity and Asia- tic Turkey ; and hence it has become the residence of many bishops, and the seat of a considerable number of convents for both sexes. Among the former are the patriarch of the Greek church ; the patriarch of An- tioch, who presides over the sect of the Maronites ; and the patriarch of Armenia, who superintends several convents, under the rule of his own ritual. The people, in general, are addicted to religion ; vice and im- morality are little known among them. Though the women are not secluded from public view, chastity is so highly esteemed, that an un- married female, who happens to become pregnant, is sure to be sacrificed' by tha hands of her own relations ; and a family would consider itself as* dishonoured, should the person who marries a daughter out of it be un- able to produce proofs of his bride's virginity. Desirous of seeing the manners of a people so little visited in their true and genuine colours, our traveller, having spent a few days at Jelton, set out in his route to Misra, a village lying at the foot of the highest mountain in Quesrouan. The country through which he passed was highly picturesque, and many spots were eminently beautiful. After ascending and descending several hills, studded with mulberry trees, and finely cultivated spots, he at lasS arrived at Mafra, an open village of considerable extent. Quitting this village, he directed his course again to Baruth, which he reached aftec an absence of ten days, which time he had spent in ex- ploring the mountains of Quesrouan. The -friar of the Capuchin convent received hun with cordiality, and informed him that a king's xebec, which had arrived from France, on a cruise oflf the coast of Syria, v/as expected hi a few days to enter the port of Sidon, about eight leagues distant. On k. DE PAGES. 22? ^his information, M. de Pag^s immediately set out for that port, and, on the 25th of August, waited oh the French consul there, who received him with the most marked attention ; but he had the mortification to find that the xebec had already sailed tor Candia. Disappointed in his views, he now resolved to proceed to Acre, where he expected frequent opportunities of sailing for France ; but it seems his fame as a traveller had preceded him, and the French consul, after many inquiries concern- ing his late expeditions, pressed him to stay with him a little longer, to recruit his health, which was considerably broken by fatigue. The con- isul's lady joined in the same request. The natives of these mountains are extremely disaffected to the Turks. They are sensible it is to their own bravery, and the inaccessible nature of their mountains, that they owe their happy independence. The Druses are well affected toward the Christians in general ; but holding them- selves descended from a French ancestry, who are said to have taken refuge in this district after their expulsion from the Holy Land, they have more than a common regard for the natives of that country. The principles indeed which, according to their historians, actuated the sub- jects of the old man of the mountain, still influence the minds of some individuals. The industrious character of the natives displays itself in Ihe cultivated state of their mountains, many parts of which present the face of a fine garden. Springs, judiciously directed, water their mulberry plantations, which constitute the wealth of the country. Such is the superior quality and high value of the silk raised here, that the farmer obtains from his mulberry tree, at little expense and labour, a comforta- ble subsistence for his family. M. de Pages now paid a visit to the town of Dairel-Kamar, situated on the banks of the Thamour, on the side of a mountain. The palaces, or seraglios, belonging to the emirs of the reigning family, are fine build- ings ; the churches are handsome, and constructed with good taste ; and the mansions of some of the sheiks and commandants have large and commodious appartments ; but the generality of the buildings are mean. The Druses do not exceed one-half of the inhabitants, while the remain- der are Maronites, or Greek Christians. Some of the institutions among the Druses are very singular. A mountaineer is never seen without the walls of his cottage unarmed ; and, by the maxims of a law which cus- tom has established, a man has a right to repel force by force, and to redress bis wrongs in the best manner he can ; and, therefore, whoever considers himself as insulted, despatches his antagonist the moment he finds an opportunity. This is certainly a deplorable laxity of govern- ment. Again, a man who gives his daughter in marriage to any but one of his own relations, is considered as bringing a reproach on himself and his tribe ; and the consequences are sometimes fatal. Families of the same blood entertain the most clannish attachment ; insomuch, that who- erer offers an affront to one, is held to be in a state of hostility with the whole tribe. Hence many acts of violence arise ; and the offender has no other means of security than by putting himself under the protection of some chief, who, under the mask of hdspitality, shelters him from the pursuit of his enemies. M. de Pag^s now made a second visit to his friend, the pastor of Mafra, taking Aintoura and Jelton in his way. He was everywhere received with kindness and hospitality ; and having now made a consi- derable stay in this part of Asia, and being desirous of passing into £urop6, he proceeded directly to St. Jean d'Acre, a port much iret^uented 228 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLO- by the trading ships of Marseilles. Finding a vessel there, he set sail /of Marseilles in the end of June, 1771 ^ when they bore away for Cvprus, which having coasted^ they stretched to the northward, to catch the breeze from that quarter^ which they fell in with on the coast of Caramania. On the 15th of October they came to an anchor at the Isle of Malta, where our traveller met several French frigates, and on board them some of his old companions, whose friendship was not abated by his long absence. Having afterward touched at Tunis on some business, they again got under sail ; but being retarded by contrary winds, they did not reach Palma, in Sardinia, till the 27th of November. Remaining here for a few days, they proceeded on their voyage, and on the 5th of December, 1771, M. de Pages, with gratitude to Providence for his preservation to the end of his travels, again set his foot on his native soil. CAPTAIN COOK.— 1768-^1771. Mr. Banks, a gentleman of considerable fortune in Lincolnshire, v/as induced to undertake this voyage from curiosity and an invincible desire of attaining knowledge. He engaged his friend Dr. Solander, a Swede, to accompany him in this voyage. Mr. Banks also took with him two draughtsmen, and had besides a secretary and four servants. Lieutenant James Cook was to command the expedition. On the 26th of August, 1768, the Endeavour sailed from Plymouth , the Islands of Puerto, Santo, and Madeira were discovered on the 12th of September, and the next day they anchored in Fonchial road. Ths Endeavour sailed thence September the 19th, On the 22d they saw the Islands of Salvages, northward of the Canaries. The chief of these islands was about five leagues to the south one-half west. These islands appear to lie in latitude 30 degrees 1 1 minutes north. The 23d saw thu Peak of Teneriffe, bearing west by south. This mountain is near 15,400 feet high. On the 29th perceived Bona Vista, one of the Cape de Verde Islands, lying in latitude 16 degrees north, and longitude 21 degrees 48 minutes west. On the 13th of November made sail for the harbour of Rio-de-Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, was sent before in the pinnace to the city, to inform the governor they put in there for refreshments and water, and to obtain a pilot. Captain Cook ' went on shore on the 14th, and obtained leave to purchase provisions ; and having requested that the gentlemen on board might remain on shore •while they sojourned, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to collect plants, these requests were peremptorily refused. December the 8th, 1768, having procured all necessary supphes, they left Rio-de-Janeiro. On the 14th of January entered the Strait of Le Maire ; but the tide being against them, were driven out with great vio- lence, and the waves ran so high, that the ship's bowsprit was frequently under water ; at length, however, they got anchorage at the entrance of a little cove, which Captain Cook called St. Vincent's Bay. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander set out from the ship on the 16th, with the design of going into the country, and returning in the evening. Ha- ving entered a wood, they ascended the hill through a pathless wilderness till the afternoon. The morning had been very fine, but the weather now became cold and disagreeable ; the blasts of wind were very piercing, and a shower of snow fell. Mr. Buchan, one of the draughtsmen, fell into a fit. It was absolutely necessary to stop and kindle a fire, and such JAMES COOHi 329 fig wefe most fatigued remained to assist him ; but Messrs. Banks, So- lander, Green, and Monkhouse, proceeded and attained the spot they had in view. Upon returning, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. They had previously sent Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Green back to him and the others, in order to bring them to a hill, which was conjectured to lie in a better track for returning to the wood. The whole party met there at eight in the evening. Dr. Solander having often passed moun- tains in cold countries, was sensible that extreme cold, when joined with fatigue, occasions a drowsiness that is not easily resisted ; he accord- ingly entreated his friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it might be to them ; his words were, " Whoever sits down, will sleep ; and whoever sleeps, will wake no more." Every one seemed accordingly armed with resolution ; but on a sudden the cold became so very intense as to threaten the most direful effects. It was very remarkable, that Dr. Solander himself, who had so forcibly admonished his party, should be the first who insisted upon being suffered to repose. In spite of the most earnest entreaties, he lay down amid the snow, and it was with great difficulty they kept him awake. When a black servant was informed, that if he remained there he would soon be frozen to death, he replied, that he was so exhausted with fatigue that death would be a relief to him. Dr. Solander said he was not unwilling to go, but that he must first take some sleep, notwithstanding what he had before declared to the company. Thus resolved, they both sat down, supported by bushes, and in a short time fell fast asleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced party, that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the way. Mr. Banks then waked the doctor, who had almost lost the use of his limbs already, though it was but a few minutes since he sat down. Every measure taken to relieve the black proved ineffectual ; he remain- ed motionless, and they were obliged to leave him to the care of th^ other black servant and a sailor, who appeared to have been the least hurt by the cold. Mr. Banks and four others went forth at twelve o'clock and met the sailor, with just strength enough to walk ; he was immediately sent to the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the two others. They found Richmond, one of the black servants, upon his legs, but incapable of moving them ; the other black was lying senseless upon the ground. All endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless, nor was it possible to kindle one upon the spot, on account of the snow that had fallen, and was still faUing, so that there was no alternative, but to leave the two unfortunate negroes to their fate, making them a bed of boughs of trees, and covering them very thick with the same. On the 17th, in the morning, at daybreak, nothing presented itself around but snow, the trees being equally covered with it as the ground. However, about six in the morning they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being deliver- ed, by discovering the sun through the clouds, which gradually dimi- nished. Previous to setting out, messengers were despatched to the unhappy negroes, who returned with the melancholy news of their death. In about three hours, to their great satisfaction, found themselves upon the shore, much nearer to the ship than their most sanguine expectations could have flattered them. When they took a retrospect of their former route from the sea, they found, that instead of ascending the hill in a direct line, they had made a circle almost round the country. January the 26th Captain Cook sailed from Cape Horn. The farthest southern latitude he made was 60 degrees 10 minutes, by 74 degrees 30 minutes west. March the 1st were^in latitude 38 degrees 44 minutes 20 230 VOYAGBS ROtND THE WORLD. south, &nd longitude 110 degrees 33 minutes west, as well by observa- tion as by the log ; which concurrence, after a course of 660 leagues, was judged very singular. April the 4th, a servant to Mr, Banks discovered land three or four leagues distant. It was found to be an island of an oval form, with a lake or lagoon in the centre ; the border of land was in many places low and narrow, especially toward the south, where the beach consisted of a reef of rocks. Captain Cook came within a mile on the north side, but found no bottom nor anchorage. There appeared along the beach some of the inhabitants, with pikes or poles in their hands, twice the heigiit of themselves. This island was in latitude 18 degrees south, longitude 139 degrees 28 minutes west, and was named Lagoon Island. They saw land again in the afternoon to the north-west, when it appeared a low island covered with wood, in form circular, about a mile in circum- ference. No inhabitants were visible, though the Endeavour had reached the shore within half a mile. This island, which is distant from that of Lagoon about seven leagues, was named Thrumb Cap. The 5th con- tinued their course, and about three o'clock discovered land to the west. This was a low island, between ten and twelve leagues in circumference ; it resembles in form a bow. This island, from the smoke discovered, appeared to be inhabited, and was named Bow Island. About noon, on the 6th, saw land again to the west ; this seemed divided into two islands, or rather collections of islands, their extent being near nine leagues. Some of these were ten miles or more in length, and pro- duced trees of different kinds, among which was the cocoa nut. Several of the inhabitants came out in canoes, and two appeared to have a design of coming on board, but stopped at the reef. Next day discovered an- other island, judged to be in compass about five miles. It was very low, with a piece of water in the centre, and appeared to abound in wood and verdure, but no inhabitants were visible. It was called Bird Island, from, the number of them flying about. The 8th saw land to the north. This seemed to be a chain of low islands, of an oval figure, and consisted of coral and sand, with a few clumps of small trees, and in the middle of it a lagoon. It was, from its appearance, called Chain Island. On the 10th, after a tempestuous night, saw Osnaburgh Island, called by the natives Maite. This island is high and circular, about four miles in cir- cumference, partly naked and rocky, and partly covered with trees. The same day, on looking out for the island to which they were des- tined, saw land ahead. Next morning it appeared very high and moun- tainous, and was known to be King George the Third's Island, so named by Captain Wallis, but by the natives called Otaheite. They lay ofT and on till the 13th, and then entered Port Royal Harbour, anchoring within half a mile of the shore. A great number of natives immediately came off in canoes, bringing with them bananas, cocoa nuts, bread fruit, apples, and some hogs, which they bartered with the ship's crew for beads and other trinkets. When the ship was properly secured, the captain went on shore with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, a party under arras, and an old Indian. They were received by some hundreds of the natives, v;ho were struck with such awe, that the first who approached crept almost upon his hands and knees. He presented them branches of trees, the usual symbol of peace. This was received, on the part of the English, with demonstrations of satisfaction and friendship ; and they gathered some, and followed the example of the natives. They were conducted toward the place where the Dolphin had watered. The whole circuit was near JAMES COOK. 2^31 foTir miles, through groves of trees of cocoa nuts and bread fruit. Be- neath which were the habitations of the natives, consisting of only a roof, destitute of wails. In this peregrination the gentlemen were not a liltle disappointed at finding very few fowls or hogs. The 15th, in the morning, several of the chiefs, one of whom was very corpulent, came on board from the other point, bringing with them hogs, bread fruit, and other refreshments. This day the captain, attended by Mr. Banks and others, went on shore to fix on a proper spot to erect a small fort for their defence. The latter ha\ing suspected, from seeing few hogs or poultry in their walks, that they had been driven up the country, it was resolved to penetrate into the woods, some marines and a petty officer being appointed to guard the tent in the interim ; several of the natives accompanied the gentlemen in this excursion. Upon crossing a little river, Mr. Banks, perceiving some ducks, fired, and killed three. The Indians were struck with the utmost terror at this event, which occasioned them to fall suddenly to the ground, as if they had been shot at the same time. Before this party had gone much farther^ they were alarmed by the discharge of V\a pieces, fired by the tent-guard. tJpon their return, it appeared that an Indian had taken an opportunity to snatch away one of the sentinel's. muskets ; whereupon a young mid- shipmen, very imprudently, ordered the marines to fire, which they did, when several Indians were wounded ; but as the criminal did not fall, they pursued and shot him dead. The fort began to be erected on the 18th. Some of the company Were employed in throwing up entrenchments, while others were occu- pied in cutting fascines and pickets, which the Indians of their own accord cheerfully assisted in bringing from the woods. This day \h& natives brought down such quantities of bread fruit and cocoa nuts, that it was necessary to reject them, and to intimate, that the company would not want any for two days. Mr. Banks's tent being got up, he, for the first time, slept on shore. On the 19th Tubora Tumaida visited Mr. Banks at his tent, and brought with him, besides his wife and family, the materials for erecting a house in the neighbourhood of the fort, wherd he designed to reside. Without the lines a sort of market was esta- blished, which was tolerably well supplied. Tubora Tumaida became Mr. Banks's and the other gentlemen's frequent guest ; he adopted theit manners, and was the only one of his countrymen who had attempted to use a knife and fork. On the 24th Mr. Bunhs and Dr. Solander made an excursion into the country, which they found to be level and fertile for about two miles along the shore to the eastward, after which the hills reached quite to the water's edge, and farther on they ran out into the sea. On the 25th several of their knives were missing ; upon which Mr. Banks, who had lost his among the rest, accused Tubora Tumaida with having stolen it, vfhich caused him to be very unhappy, as he happened to be innocent. Mr. Molineux, master of the Endeavour, seeing a woman whose name was Oberea, he declared she was the person he judged to be the queen of the island when he came there in the Dolphin, The eyes of all were now fixed on her who had made so distinguished a figure in the accounts given by the first discoverers of this island. The per- son of the queen was of a large make, and tall ; she was about forty years of age, her skin v/hitc ; her eyes had great expression, and she had been handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. She was noon conducted to the ship, and went on board, accompanied by some of 1^32 VOYAGES ROUND tttfe WORtft. her family. Many presents were made her, particularly a child*s doll, which seemed the most to engross het attention. Captain Cook accom- panied he'i on shore, when she presented him with a hog and some plan- tains, which were carried to the fort in procession, Oberea and the cap*- lain bringing up the rear. They met Tootahah, who, though not king, seemed to be at this time invested with a sovereign authority. He im» mediately became jealous of the queen's having the ddll, which made it necessary to compliment him with one also. On the 5th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, vVith the captain, set out in the pinnace, with one of Tootahah's people ; they soon reached Eparre, the place where he dwelt, which was but a few miles to the west of the tents. Upon their arrival, they found great numbers of people upon thff shore waiting for them. They were immediately conducted to the chief, while the people shouted round them, Taio Tootahah, " Tootahah is oui friend ;" they found him sitting under a tree, and some old men standing round him. As soon as he had made signs for them to sit down, he asked for his axe, which Captain Cook presented with a shirt and a broad-cloth garment, with which he seemed greatly pleased. After eating, an entertainment was provided for them, consisting of wrestling. The chief sat at the upper end of the area, vi^ith several of his principal men on each side, by way of judges, from whom the conquerors received applause. Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many simple ceremonies of challenging each other, they engaged, endeavouring to throw one another by dint of strength ; then seizing hold of each other by the thigh, the hand, the hair, or the clothes, they grappled without the least art, till one was thrown on his back ; this conquest was applauded by some words from the old men, and three huzzas. After one engage- ment succeeded another, but if they could not throw each other during the space of a minute, they parted, either by consent, or the intervention of their friends. On the 15th Mr. Banks detected Tubora Tamaida in having stolen some nails. He had had a good opinion of this chief, and was willing to put his fidelity to the test ; several temptations were thrown in his way, among the rest, a basket of nails, which proved irresistible. He con- fessed the fact, and upon Mr. Banks's insisting upon restitution, he de- clared the nails were at Eparre ; this occasioned high words, and at length the Indian produced one of them. He was to have been forgiven upon restoring the rest, but not having resolution to fulfil his engagement, fled with his furniture and family before night. Tootahah sent many mes- sages to request a visit from the captain, declaring he would acknowledge the compliment by a present of some hogs. Mr. Hicks, the first lieute- nant, was sent, in hopes of getting the hogs without the visit. He was received in a very friendly manner at a place called Tettehah, five miles farther to the westward, where Tootahah had taken up his residence. He brought away one hog only, which had been produced immediately upon his arrival,' with a promise of receiving more the next morning; but, when morning came, he was obliged to depart without them. On the 27lh, Tootahah being removed to a place called Atahourou, Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and some others, set out in the pinnace to pay him a visit : after making presents of a few trifling articles, they were invited to stay all night. Mr. Banks having accepted of a place in Oberea's canoe, left his companions, in order to retire to rest. Not- withstanding the care Oberea took of his clothes, by having them in her own custody, they were stolen, with his pistols, powder-horn, and many ' JAMES COOK. 233 other things in his pockets. The alarm was given to Tootahah, who slept in the next canoe, and who went with Oberea in search of the thief, lea- ving Mr. Banks nearly naked, and his musket uncharged. They soon returned, but without success ; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with the loss for the present, and a second time endeavoured to sleep. But he had scarcely composed himself, before he heard some music, and per- ceived lights at a small distance from shore ; this proved to be a concert which they call Heiva. As soon as he approached the lights, be found the hut where Mr. Cook and three of his associates lay, and began to relate his melancholy tale ; but, instead of receiving much comfort from them, he was told that they had shared the same fate, having lost their stockings and jackets. However, this did not prevent their hearing out the concert, which consisted of drums, flutes, and several voices, after which they retned to rest. Some Indians from a neighbouring island, to which Captain Wallis gave the name of Duke of York's Island, informed them of more than twenty islands in the neighbourhood of Otaheite. They now began to make necessary preparations for the transit of Venus, and Mr. Cook sent out two parties to make observations from different spots, that in case they failed at Otaheite they might succeed elsewhere. And on the 1st of June, the next Saturday being the day of the transit, they sent the long-boat to Eimayo, having on board Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouse, and Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks ; each furnished with necessary in- struments by Mr. Green. * In a morning's excursion Mr. Banks met several of the natives, who were itinerant musicians, and the place of the evening's rendezvous being known, all the English gentlemen went thither to partake of the diver- sion. Their instruments were flutes and drums, and a great number of the Indians were got together upon the occasion. The drummers sung to the music, and lo the astonishment of Mr. Banks and the rest of his companions, they found that they were the chief subject of the minstrels* lays. These songs must, therefore, have been extemporaneous, the re- wards whereof were such necessaries as they required. An iron coal- rake for the oven being stolen in the night of the 14th, with many other things, the captain judged it of consequence to put an end to these prao»- tices, by making it their common interest to prevent it. He had already given strict orders, that the sentinels should not fire upon them, even if detected in the fact. About twenty-seven of their double canoes were lust come in with cargoes of fish, which the captain seized, and then gave notice, that unless the rake, and all the other things which had at diffe- rent times been stolen, were returned, the vessels should be burnt. He had, indeed, no such design, as will appear by the event. The menace produced no other effect than the restitution of the rake, all the other things remaining in their possession ; at length the captain thought pro- per to give up the cargoes, as the innocent natives were in great distress for want of them ; and at last, to prevent confusion from the difficulty of ascertaining to whom the different lots belonged, he promised also to release the canoes. On the 19th, while the canoes were detained by the captain, Oberea paid the gentlemen a visit ; she came from Tootahah's palace in a double canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread fruit, and other presents, among which was a dog ; but none of the things that had been stolen : these she pleaded had been taken away by her gallant Obadee, for which she had beaten him. She did not, however, seem to think her story deserved 234 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. credit, but appeared at first much terrified, though she surmounted her fears with much fortitude ; and was desirous of sleeping with her atten- dants in Mr. Banks's tent ; but this being refused, she was obliged to pass the night in her canoe. The captain declined accepting of her presents, at which she seemed very sorrowful. The next morning she returned to the fort, and Captain Cook, having altered his mind, accepted them. Two of her attendants were very earnest in getting themselves husbands, in which they succeeded, by means of the surgeon and one of the lieu- tenants. Dogs are esteemed here more delicate than pork, as those bred to be eaten taste no animal food, but live entirely upon vegetables, and the experiment was tried. Tupia undertook to kill and dress one, which he did, by making a hole in the ground and baking him. It was agreed by every one to be a very good dish. They v/ere visited on the 21st, at the fort, by many of the natives, and among the rest Oamo, a chief of several districts on the island, whom they had never before seen, who brought with him a hog. This chief was treated with great respect by the natives, and was accompanied by a boy and a young woman. The boy was carried upon a man's back, though very able to walk. Oberea and some others of tlie Indians went out of the fort to meet them, their heads and bodies being first uncovered as low as the waist. This was considered as a mark of respect not noticed before, but judged it was usually shown to persons of distinguished rank among them. Oamo entered the tent, but the young woman, who was about sixteen, could not be prevailed upon to accompany him, though she seem- ed to combat with her curiosity and inclination. Dr. Solander took the youth by the hand, and conducted him in ; but the natives without, who had prevented the girl's entrance, soon found means to get him out again. The curiosity of the gentlemen being excited from these circumstances, they made inquiry who these strangers were, and were informed, that Oamo was Oberea's husband, but that by mutual consent they had been for a considerable time separated ; and that the youth and girl were their offspring. The boy was named Terridiri, and was heir-apparent to the sovereignty of the island ; and he was to espouse his sister as soon as he had attained a proper age. The present sovereign being a minor, called Outou, and son of Whappai ; Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all brothers ; Whappai was the senior, and Oamo the next ; wherefore, Whappai having no child but Outou, Terridiri, son of Oamo, was heir to the sovereignty. To us it will appear singular, that a boy should reign during the life of his father ; but in the Island of Otaheite a boy succeeds to his father's authority and title as soon as he is born : when a regent is elected, v/hich office usually falls upon the father, till the boy becomes of age ; at this time, however, the election had fallen upon his uncle Tootahah, on account of his warlike exploits. Oamo was very inquisitive with respect to the English, and by his questions he appeared a man of understanding and penetration. June 26th, the captain set out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, to circumnavigate the island. They sailed to the eastward, and in the forenoon went on shore on a part of the island under the government of Ahio, a young chief who had often visited them at the tents. They landed in a district which was governed by a chief named Maraitata, the burying place of men, and his father was called Pahairede, the stealer of boats. Notwithstanding their names were so ominous, they gave the party a very civil reception, furnished them with provisions, and sold them a large hog for a hatchet. Toward the southernmost part of the island they found a JAMES COOK. 235 good harbour, formed by a reef, and the circumjacent country is remarka- bly fruitful. They landed again a little farther to the east. Mathiabo, the chief, with whom they had no acquaintance, nor had ever seen before, soon came to them, and supplied them with cocoa nuts and bread fruit. They were now near the district named Paparra, govered by Oamo and Oberea, where they intended to spend the oight. Mr. Banks and his company landed about an hour before it was dark, and found they were both set out to pay a visit at the fort. They, nevertheless, slept at the house of Oberea, which, though not large, was very neat ; no inhabitant but her father was now in possession of it, who showed them much civility. The gentlemen of the Endeavour, it has been observed, did not find Oberea possessed of the same power as when the Dolphin was at this place, and they were now informed of the cause. The way from her house to the Moral was by the sea-side, and they observed, in all places as they passed along, a great number of human bones. Inquiry being made into the cause of this, they were informed that, about four or five months before Captain Cook's arrival, the inhabitants of Tiarrabou, the peninsula to the south-east, made a descent here, and slew many of the people, whose bones were those that were seen upon the coast : that here- upon Oberea and Oamo, who then held the government for his son, had fled and taken refuge in the mounlfeins ; and that the victors destroyed all the houses and pillaged the country. Mr. Banks was also informed, that the turkey and goose which he had seen in the district of Mathiabo were among the booty ; this afforded a reason for their being found where the Dolphin had little or no correspondence ; and the jaw-bones being mentioned, which had been seen hanging in a hotse, he was informed that they had likewise been carried off as trophies ; the jaw-bones of their enemies being considered by the natives of this island as great a mark of triumph as scalps arc by the Indians of North America. July 1st, returned to the fort at Port Royal Harbour ; having discovered the island, both peninsulas included, to be about 100 miles iii circum- ference. They now began to make preparations for their departure ; but, before they set sail, they had another visit from Oamo, Oberea, and their son and daughter. The 10th, two marines being missing, an inquiry was made after them, when the Indians declared they did not propose returning, having each taken a wife. In consequence of which it was intimated to several of the chiefs who were in the fort with their women, among whom were Tubora Tumaida, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be suf- fered to quit it till the deserters were produced. Mr. Hicks was imme- diately despatched in the long-boat, with several men, for them ; at the same time Captain Cook told Tootahah that it was incumbent on him to assist them with some of his people, and to give orders, in his name, that the men should be set at liberty, for that he should expect him to answer for the event. Tootahah immediately comphed, and this party recovered the men without any opposition. Tupia, a very friendly native, had been prime minister of Oberea when she was at the pinnacle of her authority ; he was also the principal priest of the island, and likewise versed in navigation, and was thoroughly ac- quainted with the number, situation, inhabitants, and produce of the ad- jacent islands. He had often testified a desire to go with them ; and on the 12th, in the morning, came on board with a boy about twelve years of age, his servant, named Tayota. The ship now was surrounded by numberless canoes, which contained 336 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. the inferior natives. They weighed anchor about twelve. Tupia sup* ported himself in this scene with a becoming fortitude ; tears flowed front his eyes, but the effort that he made to conceal them did him additional honour. He went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, where he continued waving his hand to the canoes as long as they remained visible. July the 13th, after leaving the Island of Otaheite, sailed with a gentle breeze, and were informed by Tupia that four islands, which he called Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, were at the distance of about one or two days' sail, and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, which had lately been scarce, were to begot there in abundance. They ac- cordingly steered in search of these islands, and on the 15th discovered Huaheine. Several canoes immediately put off, and the King of Hua- heine and his queen went on board. Astonishment was testified by their majesties at everything shown them. The former, whose name was Oree, made a proposal to exchange names with Captain Cook, which was readily assented to. The custom of exchanging names is very prevalent in this island, and is considered as a mark of friendship. They found the people here nearly similar to those of Otaheite in almost every circum- stance, except, if Tupia might be credited, they were not addicted to thieving. The 19th, they carried some hatchets with them, with which they procured three very large hogs. As they proposed to sail in the afternoon, the king, accompanied by some others of the natives, came on board to take his leave, when his majesty received from Captain Cook a small pewter plate, with an inscription. This island is situated in the latitude of 16 degrees 43 minutes south, longitude 150 degrees 52 minutes west, distant from Otaheite about thirty leagues, and is about twenty miles in circumference. From Huaheine they sailed to Ulietea. Next morning, by the direction of Tupia, they anchored in a bay formed by a reef, on the north side of the island. The captain, Mr. Banks, and some other gentlemen, now went on shore, accompanied by Tupia ; after which, Captain Cook took possession of this and the adjacent islands in the name of the King ot Great Britain. On the 25th they were within a league or two of Otaha. This island appeared to be more barren than Ulietea, but the produce was much the same. The natives paid them the compliment they used toward their own kings, by uncovering their shoulders, and wrapping their clothes round their bodies, taking care no one should omit doing the same. On the 29th made sail to the northward, and at eight o'clock next morning were close under the high craggy peak of Bolabola. The next morning they discovered an island, which Tupia called Morua. In the afternoon, finding themselves to windward of some harbours on the west side of Ulietea, they intended to put into one, in order to stop a leak which they had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in some addi- tional ballast. On the 5th some hogs and fowls, several pieces of cloth, many of them fifty or sixty yards in length, together with a quantity of plantains and cocoa nuts, were sent to Captain Cook as presents, from the Earee rahie of the Island of Bolabola, accompanied with a message, that he was then on the island, and intended waiting on the captain the next day. Next day he did not visit them agreeable to promise. After dinner, they set out to pay the king a visit on shore, as he did not ihink proper to come on board. As this man was the Earee rahie of the Bola- bola men, who had conquered this, and were the dread of all the neigh- bouring islands, they were disappointed, instead of finding a vigorous, JAMES COOK. 237 etiteirpnsing young chief, to see a poor decrepid old man, half blind, and sinking under the weight of age and infirmities. He received them with- out either that state or ceremony which they had hitherto met with among the other chiefs. They did not go on shore at Bolabola ; but, after giving the general name of the Society Islands to the Islands of Huaheine, Ulietea, Bolabola, Otaha, and Morua, which lie between the latitude of 16 degrees 10 minutes and 16 degrees 65 minutes south, they pursued their course, standing southwardly lor an island, to which they were directed by Tupia, at above 100 leagues distant, which they discovered on Sunday, the loth, and were informed by him that it was called Ohitezoa. On the 7th of October discovered land at west by north, and in the afternoon of the next day came to an anchor opposite the mouth of a little river, about a mile and a half from the shore ; but, notwithstanding all their efforts, a friendly intercourse could not be established ; while, un- fortunately, some of the natives were killed in different unavoidable skirmishes. The Endeavour now passed a small island, white and high, and, as it appeared quite barren, was named Bare Island. On the 17th Captain Cook gave the name of Cape Turn-again to a headland, in latitude 40 degrees 34 minutes south, longitude 182 degrees 55 minutes west. Be- fore the Endeavour touched at New Zealand, which this was, it was not certainly known whether it was an island or part of the continent. On the 20th anchored in a bay about two leagues north of Gable End Fore- land. Two chiefs, who came on board, received presents of linen, which gave much satisfaction; but they did not hold spike-nails in such estima- tion as the inhabitants of some of the islands. Sailing to the northward, they fell in with a small island named East Island. When the Endea- vour had doubled the cape, many villages appeared in view, and the adjacent land appeared cultivated. On the evening of the 30th Lieu- tenant Hicks discovered a bay, to which his name was given. Next morning, about nine, several canoes came off from shore, with a number of armed men, who appeared to have hostile intentions. Before these had reached the ship, another canoe, larger than any that had yet been seen, full of armed Indians, came off, and made toward the Endeavour with great expedition. The captain now judging it expedient to prevent, if possible, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads. In searching for a convenient anchoring place, the captain saw a village upon a high point, near the head of the bay, fortified like some others already seen before. Having met with a convenient place, near where the Endeavour lay, he returned to the ship, and sailed to that spot, where he cast anchor. Two fortified villages being descried, the captain, with Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went to examine them : the smallest was romantically situated upon a rock, which was arched ; this village did not consist of above five or six houses, fenced round. There was but one path, very narrow, that conducted to it. The gentlemen were in- vited by the inhabitants to pay them a visit, but not having time to spare, took another route, after making presents to the females. A body of men, women, and children, now approached the gentlemen, who proved to be the inhabitants of another town, which they proposed visiting. They gave many testimonials of their friendly dispositions, among others, they uttered the word Heromai, which, according to Tupia's interpreta- tion, implied ])eace, and appeared much satisfied when informed the centlemen intended visiting their habitations. Their town was named Wharretouwa ; it is seated on a point of land over the sea, on the north 238 VOYAGES ROXTND THE WORLD. side of the bay ; it was paled round, and defended by a double ditch. Within the ditch a stage is erected for defending the place in case of an attack ; near this stage, which they call Porava, quantities of dart* and stones are deposited, to be in readiness to repel the assailants. There is another stage to command the path that leads to the town, and there are also some outworks. Upon the whole, the place seemed calculated to hold out a considerable time against an enemy armed with no other wea- pons than those of the inhabitants. It appeared, however, deficient in water for a siege. They eat, instead of bread, fern-root, which was here in great plenty, with dried fish. Very little land is here cultivated, sweet potatoes and yams being the only vegetables they found. There are two rocks near the foot of this fortification, both separated from the maia land ; they are very small, nevertheless they are not without dwelling- houses and little fortifications. They throw stones in their engagements with their hands, being destitute of a sling, and those and lances are their only missile weapons ; they have, besides the pattoo-pattoo, a club about five feet in length, and another shorter. They sailed from this bay, after taking possession of it in the name of the King of Great Britain, on the 16th November. On the 18th the Endeavour steered between the main and an island which seemed very fertile, and as extensive as Ulietea. Many canoes filled with Indians came alongside, and the Indians sung their war-song ;. but the Endeavour's people paying them no attention, they threw a voUey of stones, and then paddled away. The 26th Captain Cook continued his course along shore to the north. Two canoes came up, and some of the Indians came on board, when they trafficked very fairly. Two larger canoes soon after followed, and coming up, the people in them hailed the others, when they conferred together, and afterward came alongside of the ship. The last two canoes were finely ornamented with carving, and the people, who appeared to be of higher rank, were armed with various weapons ; they held in high estimation their pattoo-pattoos, made of stone and whalebone, and they had ribs of whale, with ornaments of dogs' hair, which were very curious. These people were of a darker complexion than those to the southward, and their faces were stained blacker with what they call amoco ; and their thighs were striped with it, very small interstices of the flesh being left visible. Though they all used the black amoco, they applied it to different parts and in various forms. Most of them had the figure of volutes on their lips, and one woman, in particular, was curiously marked upon various parts of her body. These Indians seemed the superiors of the others ; they were, nevertheless, not free from the vice of pilfering ; for one having agreed to barler a weapon for a piece of cloth, he was no sooner in possession of the cloth, than he paddled away without paying the price of it ; but a musket being fired, he came back and returned the cloth. All the canoes then returned ashore. For several days the vessel lost ground. On the 29th, having wea- thered Cape Bret, they bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, where they anchored on the south-west side of several islands ; after which the ship was surrounded by thirty-three large canoes, containing near three hundred Indians, all armed. Some were admitted on board, and Captain Cook gave a piece of broadcloth to one of the chiefs, and some small presents to the others. They traded peaceably for some time, being terrified at the fire-arms, the effect of which they were not unacquainted with ; but while the captain was at dinner, on a signal given JAMES COOK. 239 by one of the chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship, and attempted to tow away the buoy ; a musket was now fired over them, but it pro- duced no effect ; small shot was then fired, but did not reach them. A musket loaded with ball was, therefore, ordered to be fired, and Ote- goowgoow, son of one of the chiefs, was wounded in the thigh, which induced them immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete their confusion, a round shot was fired, which reached the shore, and as soon as they landed they ran in search of it. On the 5th they weighed anchor. The bay which they had left was called the Bay of Islands, on account of the number it contains. The captain named another large inlet Queen Charlotte's Sound, and took possession of it in the name and for the use of his majesty, when a bottle of wine was drank to the queen's health. On the 1 2th of March discovered a bay, which Captain Cook called Dusky Bay ; and it is remarkable for having five high peaked rocks lying off it, which look like the thumb and four fingers of a man's hand ; whence it was denominated Point Five Fingers. It was now resolved to return by the East Indies, and with that view to steer for the east coast of New Holland, and then follow the direction of that coast to the northward. They sailed March 31st, and taking their departure from an eastern point, called it Cape Farewell. The bay from which they sailed was named Admiralty Bay, and the two capes thereof Cape Stephens and Cape Jackson, the names of the secretaries to the admiralty. The men of this country are as large as the largest Europeans. Their complexion is brown, but little more so than that of a Spaniard. They are full of flesh, but not lazy and luxurious, and are stout and well shaped. The women's voices are singularly soft, which, as the dress of both sexes is similar, chiefly distinguishes them from the men. The lat- ter are active in a high degree, their hair black, their teeth white and even. The features of both sexes are regular ; they enjoy perfect health, and live to a very advanced age. They are of the gentlest dispositions, and treat each other with the utmost kindness ; but they are perpetually at war, every httle district being at enmity with all the rest. This is owing, most probably, to the want of food in sufficient quantities, at certain times. They have neither black cattle, sheep, hogs, nor goats ; so that their chief food being fish, and that not at all times to be obtained, they are in danger of dying through hunger. They have a few, and but a very few, dogs ; and when no fish is to be got, they have only vege- tables, such as yams and potatoes, to feed on ; and if, by any accident, these fail them, their situation must be deplorable. This will account for their shocking custom of eating the bodies which are slain in battle. The canoes of this country are long and narrow. The large sort seem built for war, and will hold from thirty to one hundred men. One of these, at Tolaga, measured near seventy feet in length, six in width, four in depth, sharp at the bottom, and consisted of three lengths, about two or three inches thick, and tied firmly together with strong plaiting : each side was formed of one entire plank, about twelve inches broad, and about an inch and a half thick, which were fitted to the bottom part with equal strength and ingenuity. Some few at Mercury Bay and Opoorage, are made of one trunk of wood, hollowed by fire ;'but by far the greater part are built after the plan above described. The smaller boats, used in fishing, are adorned at head and stern with the figure of a man, the eyes of which are composed of the white shells of sea-ears, a tongue of enormous size is thrust out of the mouth, and the whole face 240 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. is a picture of the most absolute deformity. The grander canoes, which are intended for war. are ornamented with open-work, and covered with fringes of black feathers, which give the whole an air of perfect elegance : the side-boards, which are carved in a rude manner, are embellished with tufts of white feathers. They are rowed with a kind of paddle between five and six feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval, gradually decreasing till it reaches the handle ; and the velocity with which they row with these paddles is surprising. Their sails are composed of a kind of mat or netting, extended between two upright poles, one of which is fixed on each side. Two ropes, fastened to the top of each pole, serve instead of sheete. The vessels are steered by two men, having each a paddle, and sitting in the stern ; but they can only sail before the wind, in which direction they move with considerable swiftness. Their tillage of the ground is excellent, owing to the necessity of cultivating or running the risk of starving. At Tegadoo their crops were just put into the ground, and the surface of the field was as smooth as a garden ; the roots were ranged in regular lines, and to every root there remained a hillock. A long narrow stake, sharpened to an edge at the bottom, with a piece fixed across a little above it for the convenience of driving it into the ground with the foot, supplies the place both of plough and spade. The spil being light, their work is not very laborious, and with this instrument alone they will turn up ground of six or seven acres in extent. Their warlike weapons are spears, darts, battle-axes, and the pattoo- pattoo. The spear, which is pointed at each end, is about elxteen feet in length, and held in the middle. Whether they fight in boats or on shore, the battle is hand to hand ; they trust chiefly in the pattoo-pattoo, which is fastened to the wrist by means of a strong strap, that it may not be wrenched out of the hand. These are worn in the girdles of people of a superior rank, as a military ornament. They have a kind of staff of distinction, which is carried by the principal warriors : it is formed of a whale's rib, is quite white, and adorned with carvings, feathers, and the hair of their dogs ; and they sometimes carried a stick six feet long, inlaid with shells, and otherwise adorned like the military staff. This honourable mark of distinction was commonly borne by the old men. When they came to attack the English, there was usually one or more thus distinguished in each canoe. It was their custom to stop at about fifty or sixty yards distance from the ship, when the chief, arising from his seat, and putting on a garment of dog's skin, used to direct them how to proceed. When they were too far from the ship to reach it either with stone or lance, they cried out, Haromai, haromai, liarre lUa a patoo- ■patoo ege. — " Come to us, come on shore, and we will kill you all with our pattoo-pattoos." During these menaces they approached the ship, till thev came alongside, talking peaceably at intervals, and answering whatever questions were asked. Then again their threats were renewed, till, imagining the sailors were afraid of them, they began the war song and dance — an engagement always followed, and sometimes continued till the firing of small shot repulsed them ; at others, only till they had satiated their vengeance by throwing a few stones on board the ship. In the war-dance their motions are numerous, their limbs are distorted, and their faces are agitated. They accompany this dance with a song, which is sung in concert ; every strain ending with a loud and deep siffh. There is an activity and vigour in their dancing which is truly admirable ; and their idea of keeping time in music is such, that sixty or JAMES COOK. 241 eighty padtlles will strike at once against the sides of their boats, and make only one report. They fortify all their hippahs, or towns, of which there are several between the Bay of Plenty and Queen Charlotte's Sound. In these the inhabitants of those parts constantly reside ; but near Tolaga, Tegadoo, Hawk's Bay, and Poverty Bay, there are no towns, only single houses at a considerable distance apart. On the sides of the hills were erected long stages, supplied with darts and stones, which were thought to be retreats in time of battle, and on which, froni their elevated situation, they can combat the enemy with these weapons to great advantage. In these repositories they store their dried fish and fern-roots. They sailed from Cape Farewell on the 31st of March, 1770. On the 19th of April they discovered land four or five leagues distant, the southernmost part of which was called Point Hicks, in compliment to Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, who made the discovery. Intending to land, they took Tupla with them ; and had no sooner come near the shore, than two men advanced, as if to dispute their setting foot on shore. They were each armed with different weapons. They called aloud, in a harsh tone, warra loarra wai, the meaning of which Tupia did not understand. The cap- tain threw them beads, nails, and other trifles, which they took up, and seemed to be delighted with. He then made signs that he wanted water, and used every possible means to convince them that no injury was intended. They made signs to the boat's crew to land, on which they put the boat in ; but had no sooner done so, than the two Indians came again to oppose them. One of them threw a stone at the boat, on which the captain ordered a musket loaded with small shot to be fired, which wounding the eldest in the legs, he retired hastily to one of their houses which stood at some httle distance. The people in the boats landed, imagining that the wound which this man had received would put an end to the contest ; in this, however, they were mistaken, for he immediately returned with a kind of shield, of an oval figure, painted white in the middle, with two holes in it to see through. They advanced with great intrepidity, and both discharged their lances at the boat's crew, but did not wound any one. Another musket was now fired, on which they threw another lance and then took to their heels. The crew now went up to the huts, in one of which they found children^ who had secreted themselves behind some bark. They looked at them, but vyithout ^eir knowing they had been seen ; and having thrown some pieces of cloth, ribands, beads, and other things into the hut, took several of their lances, and re- embarked into the boat. The name of Botany Bay was given to this place, from the large number of plants collected by Messrs. Banks and Solander. They sailed hence the 6th of May, 1770 ; at noon were oflf a harbour which was called Port Jackson, and in the evening near a bay, to which they gave the name of Broken Bay. On the 10th passed a low rocky point, which was named Point Stephens, near which was an inlet, denominated Port Stephens. Coastmg this shore till the 10th of June, an accident had nearly terminated their voyage fatally. The ship struck on a rock in the night, at some distance from the land, and made so much water as to threaten to sink every moment, which was only prevented by great exertions and the lavour of Providence, for nothing else could have saved them. After some httle examination, they found a small harbour to look at the ship's bottom, and there found that the only thing which prevented her from 21 242 vorAGES round thb woiili>. sinking was a large piece of rock, broken off and sticking m the largest hole, which impeded the entrance of the water. Here they procured some refreshments, landed the sick and stores, made a variety of excur- «ons by land and water to the neighbouring places, and, for the first time, saw the animal now known as the kangaroo. Three Indians visited Tiipia's tent on the I2th of July, and after remaining some time, one of them went for two others, whom he intro- duced by name. Some fish was offered, but they seemed not much to regard it, and, after eating a Uttle, gave the remainder to Mr. Banks's dog. Some ribands given them, to which niedak were suspended round their necks, were so changed by smoke tl"iat it was difficult to- judge what colour they had been ; and the smoke had made their skins look darker than their natural colour ; from whence it was thought that they slept close to their fires, as a preventiTe against the sting of the moscheioes. Both the strangers had bones through their noses, and a piece of bark tied over the forehead ; and one had an ornament of strings- round his arm, and an elegant necklace made of shells. Their canoe was about ten feet long, and calculated to hold four persons, and when iri shallow water they moved it by means of poles. Their lances had only a single point, and some of them were barbed with fish-bones. On the 14th Mr. Gore shot one of the mouse-coloured animals abovementioned. It chanced to be a young one, weighing not more than thirty-eight pounds ; but when full grown they are as large as a sheep. The skin of this beast is covered with short fur, and is of a dark mouse-colour ; the head and ears are somewhat like those of a hare : this animal was dressed for dinner, and proved fine eating. The ship's crew fed on turtle almost every day, which were finer than those eaten in England, owing to their being killed before their na-tural fat was wasted and their juice* changed. They sailed hence on the 13th of August, 1770, and got through one one of the channels in the reef; happy to be once more in an open sea, after having been surrounded by dreadful shoals and rocks for near three months, during all which run they had been obliged to keep sounding without the intermission of a single minute ; a circumstance which it is supposed never happened to any ship but the Endeavour. On the 14th steered a westerly course to get sight of the land, that a passage between that land and New Guinea might not be missed, if there wa.s any such passage. This day the boats went out to fish, and met with great suc- cess, particularly in catching cockles, some of which were of such an amazing size as to require the strength of two men to move them. Previous to their leaving, Captain Cook displayed the English colours, and took possession of all the eastern coast of the country, from the 3Sth degree of south latitude to the present spot, by the name of New South Wales, for his sovereign the King of Great Britain j upon which three vollevs of small arms were fired, and answered by an equal number from the Endeavour. They were now at the northern extremity of New Holland, and had the satisfaction of viewing the open sea to the west- ward. The north-east entrance of the passage is formed by the main land of New Holland and by a number of islands, which took the name of the Prince of Wales's Islands, and which Captain Cook imagines may reach to New Guinea. To the passage sailed through Captain Cook gave the name of Endeavour Straits. New South Wales is a much larger country than any hitherto known, not deemed a continent, being larger than all Europe ; which i& proved JAMES COOK. 243 by the Endeavour having coasted more than two thousand miles, even if her track was reduced to a straight line. It does not appear, much in- habited ; not above thirty persons being ever seen together but once, when these of both sexes and all ages got together on a rock off Botany Bay to view the ship. The men are well made, of the middle size, and active in a high degree ; but their voices are soft even to effeminacy. Their colour is chocolate, but so covered with dirt as to look almost as black as negroes. The women were seen only at a distance, as the men constantly left them behind. The chief ornament of these people is the bone thrust through the nose, which the sailors whimsically termed their spritsail-yard : but besides this they wore necklaces formed of shells, a small cord tied twice or thrice round the arm, between the elbow and the shoulder, and a string of plaited human hair round the waist. Their hut3 are built with small rods, the two ends of which were fi.xed into the ground, so as to form the figure of an oven, and covered with pieces of bark and palm leaves. The door, which is only high enough to sit up- right in, is opposite to the fire-place ; they sleep with their heels turned up toward their heads, and even in this posture the hut will not hold more than four people. They feed on the kangaroo, on several kinds of birds, on yams, and various kinds of fruit ; but the prmcipal article of subsis- tence is fish. Their method of producing fire is singular ; having wrought one end of a stick into an obtuse point, they place this point upon a piece of dry wood, and turning the upright stick very fast backward and for- ward between their hands, the fire is soon produced. They make use of spears or lances ; but these are very differently constructed : those seen in the southern parts of the country had four prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed ; those in the northern parts have only one point ; the shafts of different lengths, from eight to fourteen 'feet, are made of the stalk of a plant not unlike a bulrush, and consist of several joints let into each other, and tied together. They make use of shields made of the bark of trees, of about eighteen inches broad and three feet long. Many trees were seen from which the bark had been taken, and others on which the shields were cut out, but not taken away. The canoes are formed by hollowing out the trunk of a tree ; and it was conjectured, that this operation must have been performed by fire, as they did not appe:\r to have any instrument proper for the pur- pose. The canoes are in length about fourteen feet, and so narrow that thoy would be frequently overset, but are provided with outriggers. The natives row them with paddles, using both hands in that employment. They iiow held a northward course, within sight of laud, till the 3d of September On the Gth passed two small islands ; on the 9th they saw what had the appearance of land, and the ne.\t morning were convinced it was Timor Laoet. On the 16th they had sight of the little ishmd called Rotte, and the same day saw tlie Island of Savu, at a distance to the southward of Timor, where, having obtained necessary refreshments, Captain Cook prepared again for sailing. Savu is situated in 10 degrees 35 minutes south latitude, and 237 de- grees 30 minutes west longitude, and has hitherto been very little known, or very imperfectly described. Its length is between twenty and thirty miles. The harbour jn which the ship lay was called Seba, from a dis- trict of the country so denominated ; and there are two other bays on different parts of the island. The natives are rather below the middle stature, their hair black and straight, and persons of all ranks, as well those that are exposed to the 244 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. weather as those that are not, have one general complexion, which is dark biovvo. The men are well formed and sprightly, and their fealures difTer much from each other : the women, on the contrary, have all one set of features, and are very short and broad built. The dress of the former consists of two pieces of cotton cloth, one of which is bound round the middle, and the lower edge being drawn pretty tight between the legs, the upper edge is left loose, so as to form a kind of pocket, in which they carry knives and other things : the other piece being passed under the former, on the back of the wearer, the ends of it are carried over the shoulders, and tacked into the pocket before. Tiie women draw the upper edge of tho piece found the waist tight, while the lower, dropping to the knees, makrs a kind of petticoat : the other piece of cloth is fas- tened across the breast and 'under the arms. This cloth,, which is manu- factured by the natives, is died blue while in the yarn. The island consists of five divisions, each of which has a raja, or chief governor, of its own. These are called Timo, Massara, Ilegeeua, Laai, and Scba. It was o.i this last division that our English adventurers went on shore, the raja of which was between thirty and forty yeais of age, and remarkable for his corpulency. He governs his people with the most absolute authority, but takes on him very little of the parade or pomp of royalty. The inhabitants are divided into five ranks ; the rajas, the land- owners, manufacturer?, labourers, and slaves ; the land-owueis are re- spected in proportion to the extent of their lards and the nu:uber of their ijlaves, which last are bought and sold with the estates to which they belong ; but when a slave is bought separately, a fat hog is the price of the purchase. Though a man may sell his slave in this maniier, or convey him with his lands, yet his power over him extends no farther, for he must not even strike him without the raja's permission. A few years ago the Dutch East India company made an agree. nent with the several rajas of the island, by which it was covenanted, thst a quantity of rice, maize, and calevances should be annually fumishcil to the Dutch, who, in return, supply the rajas with arrack, cutlery wares, linen, silk, and some other things. Small vessels, each of which is manned by ten Indians, are sent from Timor to bring away the maize and calevances, and a ship whi.'di brings the articles which are furnished by the Dutch receives the rice on board once a year ; and there being three h?iys on the coast, this vessel anchors in each of them in its turn. The Endeavour sailed the 2l6t of September, 1770, and bent her co:jrse westward. In the afternoon of this day a little flat island was discovered in iO degrees 47 niinuies south latitude, and 238 degrees 28 minutes west longitude, which has not been laid down in any of the charts hitherto published. They made con.siderable way, till at length, by the assistance of the sea breezes, they came to an anchor in the road of Batavia. At this place they found a number of large Dutch vessels, the Harcourt East Indiaman from England, which had lost her passage to China, and two ships belonging to the private trade of our India company. Tupia had been till this time very dangerou.sly ill ; Mr Banks now sent for him to his house, in the hope that he might recover his health. While in the ship, and even after he was put into the boat, he was indis- posed and low-spirited iri the utmost degree ; but the moment he came into the town, his whole frame appeared reanimated.' The houses, the car- riages, the people, and many other objects, were totally new to him, and astonishment look possession of his features at sights so wonderful ; but if Tupia was astonished at the scen--^, his boy, Tayota, was perfectly en- JAMES COOK. 245 raptured, dancing along the street in an ecstasy of joy, and examining the several objects as they presented themselves with the most earnest in- quisitiveness and curiosity. Nothing struck Tupia so much as the variety of dresses worn by the inhabitants of Batavia : he inquired the reason, and being informed that the people were of a variety of nations, and that all were dressed according to the mode of their own country, he requested permission to follow the fashion : this request being readily complied with, a person was despatched to the ship for some South Sea cloth, with which he soon clothed himself in the dress of the inhabitants of Otaheite. After little more than a week, the ill effects of the climate began to be severely felt. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were indisposed with fevers •; Mr. Banks's two servants were exceedingly ill ; the Indian boy, Tayota, had an inflammation on his lungs ; and Tupia was so bad, that his life was despaired of. Tayota paid the debt of nature on the 9th of this month : and poor Tupia fell a victim to the ravages of his disorder, and lo his grief for the deceased Tayota. When the latter was first seized with the fatal disorder, he seemed sensible of his approaching end, and Frequently said to those about him, Tyau mate, " My friends, I am dying :" he was very tractable, and took any medicines that were offered to him ; they were both buried in the Island of Edam. Since the arrival of the ship, every person belonging to her had been ill, except the sailmaker, who was more than seventy years old ; yet this man got drunk every day while they remained there. The Endeavour buried seven of her people — Tupia and his boy, three of the sailors, the servant of Mr. Green, the astronomer, and the surgeon ; and, at the time of the vessel's sailing, forty of the crew were sick, and the rest so enfeebled by their late illness as to be scarcely able to do their duty. The town of Batavia is situated in 6 degrees 10 minutes south latitude, and 106 degrees 50 minutes east longitude. It is built on the bank of a larwe bay, something more than twenty miles from the Strait of Sunda, on the north side of the Island of Java, in low boggy ground. Several small rivers, which rise forty miles up the country in the mountains of Blaeuen Berg, discharge themselves into the sea at this place, having first intersected the town in different directions. There are wide canals of nearly stagnated water in almost every street, and as the banks of these canals are planted with rows of trees, the effect is very agreeable ; but they combine to render the air pestilential. The method of building their houses seems to have been taught them by the climate. On the ground floor there is no room but a large hall, a corner of which is parted off for the transaction of business ; the hall has two doors, which are commonly left open, and are opposite each other, 80 that the air passts freely through the room, in the middle of which there is a court, which at once increases the draft of air and affords light to the hall ; the stairs, v/hich are at one corner, lead to large and lofty apartments above. The female slaves are not permitted to sit in any place but in the alcove formed by the court ; and this is the usual dining place of the family. The environs of the town have a very pleasing appearance, and would, in almost any other country, be an enviable situation. Gardens and houses occupy the country for several miles. For the space of more than thirty miles around the land is totally flat, except in two places, on one of which the governor's country seat is built, and on the other they hold a large market ; but neither of these places are higher than ten yards from the level of the plain. At forty miles from the town the land rises 21* 246 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. into hills, and the air is purified in a great degree : to this distance in valids are sent by their pii^^sicians, when every other prospect of recovery has failed, and the experiment succeeds in alatost every instance ; but they no sooner return to town than their former disorders recur. The fruits of this country are near forty in number, and of each of these there are several species. Pine-apples grow in such abundance that they vnHy be purchase, at the first hand, for the value of an English farthing. The Batavians strew an immense number of flowers about their houses, and are almost alw^ys burning some aromatic woods and gums. Thu sweet-scented flowers of thi.s country are very numerous, many of which are totally unknown in England. The Island of Java produces goats, sheep, hogs, buffaloes, and horses. The quantity of fish taken is astonishingly great, and all the kinds are fine food, except a few which are very scarce ; yet such is the pride of the inhabitants, that these few scarce sorts are sold at high rales, while those that are plentiful arc sold for a mere trifle, nor are they eaten but by the slaves. There is abundance of poultry, as excellent of their kinds as tliose of England ; turkeys are immoderately dear, and pigeons not much less so ; but geese, ducks, and fine large fowls are altogether as cheap. On the 27th of December, 1770, the Endeavour left the road of Bata- via, and, as many of the ship's crew, who had been very ill while at Batavia, were now become much worse, the vessel was brought to an anchor in the afternoon of the 5th, near Princess Island. A stay of ten days occurred here, during which they purchased vegetables of various kinds, fowls, deer, and turtle ; the anchor was weighed, and the vessel once more put to sea. After a passage in which they lost twenty-three more officers and men, the ship was brought to an anchor oflf the Cape of Good Hope on the 15rh of March, 1771. The captain repaired instantly to the governor, who said, that such refreshments as the country supplied should he cheer- fully granted him ; on which a house was hired for the sick, who were to have board and lodging for two shillings a day, each person. Cape Town consists of near a thousand brick-houses, the outsidea of which being generally plastered, they have a very pleasing appearance. There is a canal in the main street, with two rows of oak trees oa its bor- ders, which are in a more flourishing state than the other trees of this country ; the streets, which cross each other at right angles, are very spacious and handsome. The inhabitants are chiefly Dutch, or of Dutch extraction : the women are pleasing in a high degree. The air is so pure and salubrious, that a sick person, who goes thither from Europe, often recovers his health in a short time ; but those who bring diseases from the East Indies have not an equal chance of recovery. Although the country is naturally so barren as scarcely to produce anything, yet the industry of its inhabitants has so eff'ectually combated the hand of nature, that there are few places where the necessaries of life are more plentiful ; and even what are generally deemed luxuries are by no means scarce. The Conetantia wine is known to be excellent, but the genuine sort is made only at one particular vineyard, a few miles from the town. The gardens produce many sorts of European and Indian fruits, and almost all the common kind of vegetables. The cultivated fields yield wheat and barley of equal quality with that of England. The sheep hava tails of a very extraordinary size, many of which weigh upward of a dozen pounds ; the meat of this animal, as well as of the ox, is very fine food : the wool of the sheep is rather of the hairy kind, and the horns of Ji.3WES COOK. 247 the black cattle spread much wider than those of England, while the beast himself is handsomer and lighter made. The cheese has a very indiffe- rent flavour, but the butter is extremely good. The pork is nearly the same as that of Europe ; and there is an abundance of goats, but the inha- bitants do not cat their flesh. The country abounds in hares, altogether like those of England ; there are several species of the antelope, plenty of bustards, and two kinds of quails. The Dutch company have a garden at the extremity of the high street, which is more than half a mile in length, in the centre walk of which are a number of fine oak trees. A small part of this garden is covered with botanical plants, but all the rest is allotted to the production of the com- mon vegetables for the kitchen : the whole is divided into squares by the form of its walks, and each square is fenced in by oaks cut into small hedges. There is a menagerie of beasts and birds, many of them known in Europe, at the upper end of this garden ; and among the rest is the kadou, a beast not less than a horse, which has those curious spiral horns that have frequently found a place in the cabinets of the curious. The native inhabitants of this country are usually dressed in a sheep- skin thrown across the shoulders, and a Uttle pouch before, to which is fixed a kind of belt, ornamented with bits of copper and beads : round the waists of the women is abroad piece of leather, and rings of the same round their ancles ; a few wear a kind of shoe made of the bark of a tree, but the major part go barefooted ; both sexes adorn themselves with bracelets and necklaces made of beads. None of these people reside at a less distance than four days' journey from Cape Town, except a num- ber of the poorer sort, who look after the cattle belonging to the Dutch farmers, and are employed in various other menial offices. Most of the Hottentots speak the Dutch language, without anything remarkable in their manner ; yet, when they converse in their native language, they frequently stop, and make a clucking with their tongues, which has a most singular and ridiculous effect to the ears of a stranger ; and, exclu- sive of this clucking, their language itself is scarcely sounded articulately. They are modest to the utmost degree, and, though fond of singing and dancing, can hardly be prevailed on to divert themselves with their favou- rite amusements before strangers : both their singing and dancing are alternately quick and slow in the utmost extreme. Some understand the art of smelting and preparing copper, with which they make plates, and wear them on their foreheads as an article of finery. They are also capa- ble of making knives, superior to those they can purchase of the Dutch, from whom they procure the iron. They are so dexterous in throwing stones, that they will hit a mark, not larger than a crown-piece, at the distance of a hundred yards. They are likewise expert in the use of arrows and of the lance called an assa- gay, the points of which they poison, sometimes with the venom of a serpent, and sometimes with the juice of particular herbs, so that a wound received from either is almost always mortal. Quitting the cape, they came to an anchor off the Island of St. Helena May 1st, and on the 4th the Endeavour sailed from the road of St. Helena, together with the Portland man-of-war and several sail of Indiamen. On the 23d lost sight of all the ships in company, and in the afternoon of the same day Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant^ died of a consumption, with which he had been afflicted during the whole voyage. No single occurrence worth recording happened from this time till the ship came to an anchor in the Downs, on the i2th of June following. 248 VOYAGES ROUND Tfl23 WORLD. CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE.— 1772-75, (A second voyage being resolved upon, Captain Cook was appointed to the Resolution, and Captain Furneaux, who had been with Captain Wallis, to the Adventure, two ships which, from their construction, were supposed bet- ter adapted to the service than any others.} On the 13th of July, 1772, the two ships sailed from Plymouth Sound : and on the evening of the 29th anchored in Funchiale Road, in the Island of Madeira. On the 9th of August made the Island of Bonavista. The next day passed the Isle of Mayo on our right ; and the same evening anchored in Port Praya, in the Island of St. Jago. On the 29th of October they made the land of the Cape of Good Hope. Having finished their business here, and taken leave of the governor and some others of the chief officers, •who, with very obliging readiness, had given every assistance, on the 22d of November weiglied, with the wind at north-by-west. In the morning of the 10th of December made the signal for the Adventure to make sail and lead. At eight o'clock saw an island of ice to the westward, being then in the latitude of 50 degiees 40 minutes south, and longitude 2 degrees east of the Cape of Good Hope. On the 9^th of February, when the weather cleared up, they could see several leagues round, and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of their horizon. At ten o'clock of the 25th of March, the land of New Zealand was seen from the mast-head, and at noon from the deck, extending from north-east-by-east to east, distant ten leagues. After running about two leagues up Dusky Bay, and passing several of the isles which lay in it, they brought-to, hoisted out two boats, and anchored in fifty fathoms water, so near the shore as to reach it with a hawsei. This was on Friday, the 26th of March, at three in the afternoon, after having been 117 days at sea, in which time they had sailed 36G0 leagues, without having once sight of land. On the 27th, at nine o'clock in the morning, got under sail with a light breeze at south-west, and working over to Pickersgill harbour, entered it by a channel scarcely twice the width of the ship ; and in a small creek moored head and stern, so near the shore as to reach it with a brow or stage, which nature had in a manner prepared in a large tree, whose end or top reached the gunwale. In the evening they had a short interview with three of the natives, one man and two women. They were the first that discovered themselves on the north-east point of Indian Island, named so on this occasion ; the man hallooed to them. He stood with his club in his hand upon the point of a rock, and behind, at the skirts of the wood, stood the two women, each with a spear. The man could not help discovering great signs of fear when they approached the rock with the boat. He, however, stood firm ; nor did he move to take up some things they threw him ashore. At length Captain Cook landed, went up and embraced him, and presented him with such articles as at once dissipated his fears. Presently after they were joined by the two women, the other gentlemen, and some of the seamen. After this they spent about half an hour in chit-chat, little understood on either side, in which the youngeat of the two women bore by far the greatest share. This occasioned one of the seamen to say, that women did not want tongue in any part of the world. Having fine geese left out of those brought JAMES COOK* 249 horn the Cape of Good Hope, they went with them next morning to Goose Cove (named so on this account.) They chose this place, for here are no inhabitants to disturb them ; and, secondly, here being the most food, they will breed, and may in time spread over the whole coun- try, and fully answer the intention in leaving them. At nine o'clock, the 11th of April, weighed, with a light breeze at south-east, and stood out to sea. The country is exceedingly mountainous, not only about Dusky Bay, but throughout all the southern part of this western coast of Tavai Poe- nammoo. But the land bordering on the sea-coast, and all the islands, are thickly clothed with wood, almost down to the water's edge. The trees are of various kind?, such as are common to other parts of thi:* country, and are fit for the shipwright, house-carpenter, cabinet-maker, and many other uses. Except on the River Thames, there is not finer timber in all New Zealand. What Dusky Bay abounds with is fish ; a boat with six or eight men, with hooks and lines, caught daily sufficient to serve the whole ship's company. Of this article the variety is almost equal to the plenty. The shell-fish are muscles, cockles, scallops, cray-fish, and many other sorts. The only amphibiotis animals are seals ; these are to be found in great numbers about this bay, on the small rocks and isles near the sea- coast. After leaving Dusky Bay, they directed their course along-shore for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where they expected to find the Adventure. The wind having returned to the west, they resumed their course to the east ; and at daylight the next morning (being the 18th) appeared off Queen Charlotte's Sound, and discovered their consort the Adventure by the signals she made, an event which every one felt with an agreeable satisfaction. Early in the morning of the 24lh sent Mr. Gilbert, the master, to sound about the rock discovered in the entrance of the sound. Cook, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forsler, went in a boat to the west bay on a shooting party. On their way, met a large canoe, in which were fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first ques- tions they asked was for Tupia, the person brought from Otaheite on the former voyage ; and they seemed to express some concern when told he. was dead. These people made the same inquiry of Captain Furneaux when he first arrived, and, on returning to the ship in the evening, they were told that a canoe had been alongside, the people in which seemed to be strangers, and who also inquired for Tupia. On the 2d of June, the ships being nearly ready to put to sea, they sent on shore, on the east side of the sound, two goats, male and female. Captain Furneaux also put on shore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows ; so that they had reason to hope this country would in time be slocked with these animals, if not destroyed by the natives before they became wild, for afterward they will be in no danger. On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, weighed and put to sea, witli the Adventure in company. On the 11th of August, at daybreak, land was seen to the south. This, upon a nearer approach, was found to be an island of about two leagues in extent, in the direction of north- west and south-east, and clothed with wood, above which the cocoa nut trees showed their lofty heads. It hes in the latitude of 17 degrees 24 minutea, longitude 141 degrees 39 minutes west, and was called, after the name of the ship, Resolution.Island. At daybreak, the next morning, discovered land right ahead, distant about two railes. This proved another of these low or half-drowned 250 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLO. islands, or rather a large coral shoal of about twenty leagues in circuit. A very small part of it was land, which consisted of little isles ranged along the north side, and connected by sand-banks and breakers. I'his island was named after Captain Furneaux. The next morning, at four o'clock, made sail, and at daybreak saw another of these low islands, situated in the latitude of 17 degrees 4 minutes, longitude 144 degrees 80 minutes west, which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M. do Bougainville very properly calls this cluster of low overflowed isles the Dangerous Archipelago. On the 15th, at five o'clock in the morning, saw Osnaburgh Island, or Maitea, discovered by Captain Wallis. At daybreak found themselves not more than half a league from the reef of Otaheite. A number of thef inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts, bringing a little fish, a few cocoa nuts, and other fruits, which they exchanged for nails, beads, &c. ' The most of them knew Captain Cook again, and many inquired for Mr. Banks and others who were there before ; but not one asked for Tupia. The next morning, being the 17th, they anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay, in twelve fathoms water, about two cablea' length from the shore. It was not till now that any one inquired after Topia, and then but two or three. As soon ae they learned the cause of his death, they were quite satisfied ; indeed it did not appear that it would have caused a moment's uneasiness in the breast of any one, had his death been occasioned by any other means than by sickness ; as little inquiry was made after Autourou, the man who went away with M. de Bougainville. But they were continually asking for Mr. Banks, and several others who were in the former voyage. These people said, that Toutaha, the regent of tho greater Peninsula of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle which was fought between the two kingdoms about five months before, and that Otoo was the reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more friends about Matavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of com- mon people ; but at present peace subsisted between the two kingdoms. Before they got to an auf'hor in Matavai Bay, their decks were crowd- ed with the natives ; many of whom the captain knew, and almost all of them knew him. On the 27th Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid them a visit. • He first sent into the ship a large quantity of cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fish ; and, after some persuasion, came aboard himself, with his sister, a younger brother, and several more of his attendants. To all of them were made presents ; and after breakfast the captain took th€ king, his sister, and as many more as he had room for, into his boat, and carried them home to Oparee. Be had no sooner landed than he was met by a venerable old lady, the .mother of the late Toutaha. She seized both his hands, and burst into a flood of tears, saying, Toutaha Tiyo no TcUtee malty Toutaha — (Toutaha, your friend, or the friend of Cook, is dead.) Captain Furneaux presented the king with two fine goats, male and female, which, if taken care of, will no doubt multiply. Soon after they were conducted to the theatre, and entertained with a dramatic heava, or play, in which were both dancing and comedy. The performers were five men and one woman, who was no less a person than the king's sister. The music consisted of three drums only ; it lasted about an hour and a half or two hours, and upon the whole was well conducted. It was not possible to find out the mean- ing of the play. It apparently differed in nothing, that is, in the manner ef a-cting it, from those at Uiietea in the former voyage. The dancing- JAMES COOK. 251 dress of the lady was more elegant than any seen there, by being decorated with long tassels, made of feathers, hanging from the waist downward. On the Ist of September the shipb unmoored. Some hours before they got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo^ came and de- sired the captain would take him with him ; who consented, thinking he might be of service on some occasion. As soon as they ench navigators, in January, 1772. The two they now saw were called Prince Edward's Islands, 268 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. after his majesty's fourth son ; and the other four by the name of Marion's and Crozet's Islands, to crtmmemorate their discoverers. On the 34th, in the morning, the fog clearing away a little, they saw land, bearing south-riouth-east, an island of considerable height, and aliout three leagues in circuit. Soon after saw another of the same magnitude, one league to the eastward ; and between these two, in the direction of south-east, some smaller ones. In the direction of south by east half east, from the east end of the first island, a third high island was seen. They did but just weather the island last mentioned. It is a high round rock, which \\;is named Bligh's Cap. Soon after saw the land of which thev had a faint view in ihe morning. About the middle there appeared to be an inlet, for which they steered ; but, on approaching, found it was a bending in the coast, and there.^ore bore up, to go round Cape St. Louis. At daybreak, on the 25th, weighed with a gentle breeze at ■west ; and having wrought ijito a harbour, anchored in eight fathoms water, the bottom a fine dark sand. The Discovery did not get in till two in the afternoon. As soon as the ships were again out of Christmas Harbour, they steered along the coast, with a fine breeze at north-north-west, and clear weather. To another harbour they gave the name of Port Palliser, in honour of Admiral Sir Hugh Palliser. After leaving Kerguclen's land they steered east by north, intending, in obedience to instructions, to touch next at New Zealand. On the 24th of January, at three o'clock in the morning, discovered the coast of Van Diemen's Land, bearing north-west. They stood for Adventure Bay, and anchored in it at four o'clock. In the afternoon they were agreeably surprised, at the place where they were cutting wood, with a visit from some of the na'ives — eight men and a boy. They approached without betraying any marks of fear, or rather with the greatest confidence imaginable ; for none of them had any weapons. • They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments ; unless we consider as such, and as a proof of their love of finery, some large punctures or ridges raised on different parts of their bodies, some in straight, and others in curved lines. They were of the common stature, hut rather slender. Their skin was black, and also their hair, which v;as as woolly as that of any native of Guinea ; but they vvore not distinguished by remarkable thick lips nor flat looses. On the contrary, their features were far from being disagree- able. They had pretty good eyes ; and their teeth were tolerably even, but very dirty. Most of them had theff hair and beards smeared with a red ointment ; and some had their faces also painted with the same composition. Van Diemen's Land has been twice visited before. It was so nanied by Tasman, who discovered it in November, 1642. From that time it had escaped all farther notice bv European navigators, till Captain Furneaux touched at it in March, 1773. The land is, for the most part, of a good height, diversified with hills and valleys, and everywhere of a greenish hue. It is well wooded : and if one may judge from appearances, and from what they met with in Adventure Biy, is not ill supplied with water. The best, or what is most convenient for ships that touch here, is a rivulet, v^hich is one of several that fall into a pond that lies behind the beach at the head of the bay. It there mixes with the sea water, so that it must be taken up above this pond, which may be done without any great trouble. Fire wood is to be got, with great ease, in several places. JAMES COOK. 269 At eight in the morning of the 30th of January, a h'ght breeze spring- ing up at west, they weighed anchor, and put to sea from Adventure Bay. On the 10th of February discovered the land of New Zealand. The part they saw proved to be Rock's Point, about eight or nine leagues dis- tant. They now steered for Stephens's Island, which they came up with at nine o'clock at night ; and at ten next morning anchored in their old station, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. They had not been long at anchor before several canoes, filled with natives, came alongside of the ships, but very few would venture on board, which appeared the more extra- ordinary, as Cook was well known to them all. There was one man in pHrlicular among them, whom he had treated with remarkable kindness during the whole of his stay when last here. Yet now neither professions of friendship nor presents could prevail upon him to come into the ship. This shyness was to be accounted for only upon the supposition, that they were apprehensive they had revisited their country in order to revenge the death of Captain Furneaux's people. Seeing Omai on board now, whom they must have remembered to have seen on board the Adventure when the melancholy affair happened, and whose first conversation with them, as they approached, generally turned on that subject, they must be well assured that the captain was no longer a stranger to it. He thought it necessary, therefore, to use every endeavour to assure them of the continuance of his friendship, and that he should not disturb them on that account. Among their occasional visiters was a chief named Kahoora, who headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, and himself killed Mr. Rowe, the oflicer who commanded. To judge of the character of Kahoora by what they heard from many of his coun- trymen, he seemed to be more feared than beloved among them. Not satisfied with telling Cook that he was a very bad man, some of them even importuned him to kill him ; and were not a little surprised that he did not listen to them ; for, according to their ideas of equity, this ought 10 have been done. While at this place, curiosity prompted them to inquire into the cir- cumstances attending the melancholy fate of their countrymen ; and Omai was made use of as interpreter for this purpose. Pedro, and the rest of the natives present, answered all the questions that were put to them on the subject without reserve, and like men who are under no dread of punishment for a crime of which they are not guilty ; for they already knew that none of them had been concerned in the unhappy transaction. They said, that while the seamen weie sitting at dinner, surrounded by several of the natives, some of the latter stole, or snatched from them, some bread and fish, for which Sioy were beat. This being resented, a quarrel ensued, and two New Zealanders were shot dead, by the only two muskels that were fired ; and before the people had time to discharge a third, or to load again those that had been fired, the natives rushed in, overpowered them with numbers, and put them all to death. Pedro and his companions, besides relating the history of the massacre, made them acquainted with the very spot that was the scene of it. It is at the corner of the cove on the right hand. They pointed to the place of the sun, to mark at what hour of the day it happened ; and, according to this, it must have been late in the afternoon. They also showed the place where the boat lay ; and it appeared to be about two hundred yards distant from that where the crew were seated. One of their number, a black servant of Captain Furneaux, was left in the boat to take care of her. For some time before they arrived at New Zealand, Omai had expressed 23* ^70 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. a desire to taice one of the natives with him to his own country. They had not been there many days, before he had an opportunity of being gratified in this ; for a youth about seventeen or eighteen years of age, named Taweiharooa, offered to accompany him, and took up his residence on board. That Taweiharooa might be sent away in a manner becoming his birth, another youth was to have gone with him as his servant ; and, with this view, remained on board till they were about to sail,' when hia friends took him ashore. However, his place was supplied next morn- ing by another, a boy of about nine or ten years of age, named Kokoa. On the 25th of February, at ten o'clock in the morning, a light breeze springing up at north-west by west, they weighed, stood out of the sound, and made sail through the strait, with the Discovery in company. On the 29th of March, at ten in the morning, standing to the north-east, the Dis- covery made the signal of seeing land. They soon discovered it to be an island of no great extent, and stood for it till sunset. At this time a small canoe was launched in a great hurry from the farther end of the beach, and a man getting into it, put off, as with a view to reach them ; after some time, another man joined him in the canoe, and then they both paddled toward the ship. Still, however, they would not venture on board ; but told Omai, who understood them pretty well, that their countrymen on shore had given them this caution, at the same time directing them to inquire from whence the ship came, and to learn the name of the captain. The English inquired the name of the island, which they called Matigya or Mangeea ; and sometimes added to it Nooe, naif naiwa. The name of their chief, they said, was Orooaeeka. They were obliged to leave, unvisited, this island, which seemed capable of supplying all their wants. It lies in the latitude of 21 degrees 57 minutes south, and in the longitude of 201 degrees 53 minutes east. Such parts of the coast as fell under their observation are guarded by a reef of coral rock, on the outside of which the sea is of an unfathomable depth. It is full five leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height. The natives of Mangeea seem to resemble those of Otaheite and the Marquesas, in the beauty of their persons, more than any other nation in these seas ; having a smooth skin, and not being muscular. Their general disposition also corresponds, as far as they had opportunities of judging, with that which distinguishes the first-mentioned people. After leaving Mangeea, on the afternoon of the 30th of March, they continued northward all that night, and till noon on the 81st, when they again saw land, distant eight or ten leagues. Next morning, at eight o'clock, had got within four leagues, and could now pronounce it to be an island, nearly of the same appearance ^d extent with that so lately left. At the same time another island, much smaller, was seen right ahead. It was not long, when three canoes came alongside of the Resolution, each conducted by one man. They are long and narrow, and supported by out- riggers. Some knives, beads, and other trifles, were conveyed to their visiters ; and they gave a few cocoa nuts upon asking for them. Not long after a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came toward them. As they drew near the ship, they recited some words in concert, by way of chorus — one of their i.umber first standing up and giving the v^rord before each repetition. When they had finished their solemn chant, they came alongside and asked for the chief. At three in the alternoon Mr. Gore returned, and said, that he had ex- amined all the west side of the island, without finding a place where a boat could land or the ships anchor, the shore being everywhere bounded by JAMES COOK. 271 a st«ep coral rode, against which the sea broke in a dreadful surf, through which some of them swam from the boats. Scarcely had Omai landed, when he found, among the crowd, three of his own countrymen, natives of the Society Islands. At the distance of about two hundred leagues from those islands, an immense unknown ocean intervening, with such wretched sea-boats as their inhabitants are known to make use of, and fit only for a passage where sight of land is scarcely ever lost, such a meeting, at such a place, may well be looked upon as one of those unexpected situations with which the writers of feigned adventures love to surprise their readers. It may easily be guessed with what mutual surprise and satisfaction they engaged in conversation. Their story is an affecting one. About twenty persons, of both sexes, had embarked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neighbourmg island Ulietea. A violent contrary wind arising, they could neither reach the latter nor get back to the former. Their intended passage being a very short one, their stock of provisions was scanty, and soon exhausted. The hardships they suffered, while driven along by the storm they knew not whither, are not to be conceived. They passed many days without having anything to eat or drink. Their numbers gradually diminished, worn out by famine and fatigue. Four men only survived, when the canoe overset ; and then the perdition of this small remnant seemed inevitable. However, they kept hanging by the side of their vessel during some of the last days, till Providence brought them in sight of the people of this island, who immediately sent out canoes, took them off their wreck, and brought them ashore. Of the four who were thus saved, one was since dead. The other three, who lived to have this opportunity of giving aa account of their almost miraculous transplantation, spoke highly of the kind treatment they here met with. And so well satisfied were they with their situation, that they refused the offer made to them by the gentlemen, at Omai's request, of giving them a passage to their native islands. The similarity of manners and language had more than naturalized them to this spot ; and the fresh connexions which they had here formed, and which it would have been painful to have broken off, after such a length of time, sufficiently account for their declining to revisit the places of their birth. They had arrived upon this island at least twelve years ago. This island is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in the latitude of 20 degrees 1 minute south, and in the longitude of 20 degrees 45 minutes east, and is about six leagues in circumference. It is a beautiful spot, with a surface composed of hills and plains, and covered with verdure of many hues. Light airs had carried the ships some distance from Wateeoo before daybreak. They therefore steered for a neighbouring island, discovered three days before. This island lies in the latitude of 19 degrees 6 1 minutes south, and the longitude of 201 degrees 37 minutes east, about three or four leagues from Wateeoo, the inhabitants of which called it Otakootaia ; and sometimes they spoke of it under the appellation of Wenooa-ette, which signities little island. They made sail again to the northward, in- tending to try their fortune at Hervey's Island, discovered in 1773. As they kept on toward it, six or seven of the canoes, all double ones, soon came near. There were from three to six men in each. They stopped at the distance of about a stone's throw from the ship ; and it was soma time before Omai could prevail upon them to come alongside ; but no en- treaties could mduce any of them to venture on board. Indeed, their disorderly and clamorous behaviour by no means indicated a disposition 272 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLF. to trust, or treat them well. These people seemed to differ as much m person as in disposition from the natives of Wateeoo ; though the distance between the two islands is not very great. Their colour was of a deepei cast ; and several had a fierce, rugged aspect, resembling the natives of New Zealand ; but some were fairer. At daybreak, on the 13th, they saw Palmerston Island, bearing west by south, distant about five leagues. What is comprehended under this name is a group of small isles, of which there are, in the whok, nine or ten, lying in a circular direction, and connected together by a reef of coral rocks. In the night, between th« 24th and 25th, they passed Savage Island, discovered in 1774 ; and on the 28th, at ten o'clock in the morning, got to Annamooka. The following day, while preparations were making for watering, Cook went ashore in the forenoon, accompanied by Captain Clerke and some of the officers, to fix on a place where the observatories might be set up, and a guard be stationed ; the natives having readily given leave Too- bou, the chief of the island, conducted him and Omai to his house. They found it situated on a pleasant spot, in the centre of his plantation. A fine grass-plot surrounded it, which, he gave them to understand, was for the purpose of cleaning their feet before they went within doors. They had not before observed such an instance of attention to cleanliness at any of the places in this ocean ; but afterward found that it was very common at the Friendly Islands. The floor of Toobou's house was covered with mats ; and no carpet, in the most elegant English drawing-room, could be kept neater. While on shore, they procured a few hogs and some fruit, by bartering ; and, before they got on board again, the ships were crowded with the natives. Few coming empty-handed, every necessary refresh- ment was now in the greatest plenty. On the 6th they were visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose name was Feenou, and whom Taipa was pleased to introduce as king of all the Friendly Isles. The officer on shore informed Cook that, when he first arrived, all the natives were ordered out to meet him, and paid their obeisance by bowing their heads as low as his feet, the soles of which they also touched with each hand, first with the palm and then with the back part. There could be little room to suspect that a person received with so much respect could be anything less than the king. In the afternoon he went to pay this great man a visit, having first re- ceived a present of two fish from him, brought on board by one of his servants. He appeared to be about thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and had more of the European features than any yet seen here. When the first salutation was over. Cook asked if he was the king. Taipa officiary answered for him, and enumerated no less than 153 islands, of which, he said, Feenou was the sovereign. After a short stay, their new visiter and five or six of his attendants accompanied the captain on board, who gave suitable presents to all, and entertained them in such a manner as he thought would be agreeable. Feenou, understanding that he meant to proceed directly to Tongata- boo, importuned him strongly to alter this plan, to which he expressed as much aversion as if be had some particular interest to promote. In pre- ference to it, he warmly recommended an island, or rather a group of islands, called Happaee, lying to the north-east. There, he assured him, they could be supplied plentifully with every refreshment in the easiest manner j and, to add weight to his advice, engaged to attend theia thither JAMES COOit. 2?3 m person. At daybreak, on the 16th, steered north-east for Hapaee, now in sight ; and they could judge it to be low land, from the trees only ap- pearing above the water. About nine o'clock could see it plainly forming three islands, nearly of an equal size ; and soon after a fourth, to the southward of these, as large as the others. Each seemed to bo about six or seven miles long, and of a similar height and appearance. They now despatched a boat to look for anchorage. A proper place was soon found, and they came-to abreast of a reef, being that which joins licfooga to Foa, ia the same manner that Foa is joined to Haanno. The chief conducted Cook to a house, or rather a hut, situated close to the sea-beach, brought thither but a few minutes before for their re* ception. In this Feenou, Omai, and the captain, were seated. The other chiefs and the multitude composed a circle, on the outside, fronting them ; Md they also sat down. He was then asked how long he intended to itay. On his saying, five days, Taipa was ordered to come and sit by ihim, and proclaim this to the people. He then addressed them in a speech mostly dictated by Feenou. The purport of it was, that they were all, both old and young, to look upon him as a friend, who intended to remain with them a few days ; that, during his stay, they must not steal anything, nor molest him any other way ; and that it was expected they should bring hogs, fowls, fruit, «Scc., to the ships, where they would receive, in exchange for them, such and such things, which he enutnerated. Soon after Taipa had finished this address to the assembly, Feenou left them. Taipa then took occasion to signify, that it was necessary the captain should make a present to the chief of the island, whose name was Earoupa. He was not unprepared for this, and gave him such articles as far exceeded his expectation. His liberality brought demands of the same kind from two chiefs of other isles, who were present, and from Taipa himself. When Feenou returned, which was immediately after Captain Cook had made the last of these presents, he pretended to be angry with Taipa for suffering him to give away so much ; but he looked upon this as a mere finesse, being confident that he acted in concert with the others. He now took his seat again, and ordered Earoupa to sit by him, and to harangue the people as Taipa had done, and to the same purpose, dic- tating, as before, the heads of the speech. About noon a large sailing canoe came under the stern, in which was a person named Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or both ; who, as the natives then on board said, was King of Tongataboo and of all the neighbour- ing islands. It was a matter of surprise to have a stranger introduced under this character, which they had so much reason to believe really belonged to another. But they persisted in their account of the supreme dignity of this new visiter ; and now, for the first time, owned that Feenou was not the king, but only a subordinate chief, though of great power, as he was often sent from Tongataboo to the other islands on warlike expeditions, or to decide differences. It being their interest, as well as inclination, to pay court to all the great men without making inquiry into the validity of their assumed titles, they invited Poulaho on board. He could not be an unwelcome guest ; for he brought with him, as a present, two good fat hogs, though not so fat as himself. If weight of body could give weight in rank or power, he was certainly the most eminent man, in that respect, they had seen ; for though not very tall, he was very unwieldy, and almost shapeless witli corpulence. He seemed to be about forty years of age, had straight hair, and his features differ- ed a good deal from those of the bulk of his people. They found hitn 274 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. to be a sedate, sensible man. ' He viewed the ship and the several new objects with uncommon attention, and asked many pertinent questions ; one of which was, what could induce them to visit these islands. After he had satisfied his curiosity in looking at the cattle and other novelties "whichJie met with upon deck, the captain desired him to walk down into the cabin. To this some of his attendants objected, saying, that if he were to accept of that invitation, it must happen that people would walk over his head, which could not be permitted. Cook directed Omai to tell them that he would obviate their object, by giving orders that no one should presume to walk upon that part of the deck which was over the cabin. Whether this expedient would have satisfied them was far from appearing ; but the chief himself, less scrupulous in this respect than his attendants, waved all ceremony, and walked down with- out any stipulation. Poulaho sat down to dinner ; but ate little, and drank less. When they rose from the table, he desired Cook to accompany him ashore. Omai was asked to be of the party ; but he was too faithfully attached to Feenou to show any attention to his competitor ; arKl, therefore, ex- cused himself. The captain attended the chief in his own boat, having first made presents to him of such articles as he could observe he valued much, and were even beyond his expectation to receive. He was not disappointed in the view of thus securing his friendship ; for the moment the boat reached the beach, and before he quitted her, he ordered two more hogs to be brought and delivered to the people to be conveyed on board. On the 4ih, at seven in the morning, they weighed ; and, with a fresh gale from the east-south-east, stood away for Annamooka, where they anchored riext morning, nearly in the same station they had so lately oc- cupied. About noon, next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He told them that several canoes, laden with hogs and other provisions, which had sailed with him from that island, had been lost, owing to the late blowing weather ; that everybody on board had perished. This melan- choly tale did not seem to aflfeet any of his countrymen who heard it ; and they were, by this time, too well acquainted with his character to give much credit to such a story. The following morning Poulaho and the other chiefs, who had been wind-bound with him, arrived. The captain happened at this time to be ashore, in company with Feenou, who seemed sensible of the impropriety of his conduct in assuming a charac- ter that did not belong to him. For he not only acknowledged Poulaho to be King of Tongataboo and the other isles, but affected to insist much on it, with a view to make amervds for his former presumption. At eight o'clock next morning they weighed, and steered for Tongata- boo, having a gentle breeze at north-ea-st. About fourteen or fifteen sailing vessels, belonging to the natives, set out with them ; but every one of them outrun the ships considerably. Soon after they had anchored, Cook landed, accompanied by Omai and some of the officers. They found the king waiting upon the beach. He immediately conducted them ta a small neat house, situated a little within the skirts of the wood, with a fine large area before it. This house, he told him, was at his service during his stay at the island ; and a better situation he could not wish for. Toward noon, Poulaho brought with him his son< a youth about twelve years of age. Cook had his company at dinner ; but his smi, though present, was not allowed to sit down with him. It was very convenient to have him for a guest ; (jpr when he was present, which was genera'ly the case, every other native was excluded from the table, and but few JAMES COOK. 275 of them would remain in the cabin. By this time they had acquired some certain information about the relative situations of the several great men ; Mareewagee and old Toobou were brothers. Both of them were men of great property in the island, and seemed to be in high estimation with the people ; the former, in particular, had the very honourable ap- pellation given to him by everybody of Motooa Tonga ; that is to say, Father of Tonga, or of his country. The nature of his relationship to the king was also no longer a secret ; for they now understood that he was his father-in-law ; Poulaho having married one of his daughters, by whom he had a son ; so that Mareewagee was the prince's grandfather. Poulaho's appearance having satisfied them they had been under a mis- take in considering Feenou as the sovereign of these islands, they had been at first much puzzled about his real rank ; but that was by this time ascertained. Feenou was one of Mareewagee's sons, and Tooboueitoa was another. Early the next morning the king came on board to invite Cook to an entertainment, which he proposed to give the same day. He had already been under the barber's hands ; his head being all besmeared with red pigment, in order to redden his hair, which was naturally of a dark brown colour. After breakfast he attended him to the shore ; and found his people very busy in two places in the front of their area, fixing in an up- right and square position, thus [ §g ], four very long posts, near two feet from each other. The space between the posts was afterward filled up with yams ; and) as they went on filling it, fastened pieces of sticks across, from post to post, at the distance of about every four feet, to pre- vent the posts from separating by the weight of the enclosed yams, and also to get up by. When the yams had reached the top of the first posts they fastened others to them, and. so continued till each pile was the height of thirty feet or upward. On the top of one they placed two baked hogs, and on the top of the other a living one ; and another they tied by the legs, half-way up. It was matter of curiosity to observe with what facility and despatch these two piles were raised. After they had completed these two piles, they made several other heaps of yams and bread fruit on each side of the area, to which were added a turtle and a large quantity of excellent fish. All this, with a piece of cloth, a mat, and some red feathers, was the king's present to the captain ; and he seemed to pique himself on exceeding, as he really did, Feenou's liberality, which they experienced at Hapaee. Accompanied by a few of the king's attendants, and Omai as inter- preter, they walked out to take a view of a fiatooka, or burying-place, which they had observed to be nearly by the house, and was much more extensive, and seemingly of more consequence, than any they had seen at the other islands. They were told it belonged to the king. It consists of three pretty large houses, situated upon a rising ground, or rather just by the brink of it, with a small one at some distance, all ranged longitudinally. The middle house of the first three was much the largest, and placed in a square, twenty-four paces by twenty-eight, raised about three feet. The other houses were placed on little mounts, raised artificially to the same height. The floors of these houses, as also the tops of the mounts round them, were covered with loose, fine pebbles, and the whole was enclosed by large flat stones of hard coral rock, pro- perly hewn, placed on their edges ; one of which stones measured twelve feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thickness. One of the bouses, contrary to what they had seen before, was open on one side ; 276 VOYAGES ROtTNO THE WORLD. and within it were two rude, wooden busts of men ; one near the entranccr, and the other farther in. On inquiring of the natives who had followed them to the ground, but durst not enter, what these images were intended for, they made them sensible they were merely memorials of some chiefs who had been buried there, and not the representations of any Deity. Such monuments, it should seem, are seldom raised ; for these had pro- bably been erected several ages ago. They were told the dead had been buried in each of these houses ; but no marks of this appeared. In one of them was the carved head of an Otaheitean canoe, which had been driven ashore on their coast, and deposited here. At the foot of the rising ground was a large area, or grass-plot, with different trees planted about it, among which were several of those called etoa, very large. These, as they resemble the cypress, had a fine effect in such a place. There was also a row of low palms near one of the houses, and behind it a ditch, in which lay a great number of old baskets. Amsterdam, Tongalaboo, or (as the native* also very frequently called it) Tonga, is about twenty leagues in circuit, somewhat oblong, though by much the broadest at the east end ; and its greatest length is from east to west. The island may, with great propriety, be called a low one, as the trees on the west part, where they now lay at anchor, only appeared ; and the only eminent part which can be seen from a ship is the south-east point. The general appearance of the country does not afford that beautiful kind of landscape that is produced from a variety of hills and valleys, lawns, rivulets, and cascades ; but, at the same time, it conveys an idea of the most exuberant fertility, whether we respect the places improved by art, or those still in a natural state ; both which yield all their vegetable pro- ductions with the greatest vigour and perpetual verdure. On the 10th, at eight o'clock in the morning, they weighed anchor, and were enabled to stretch away for Middleburg, or Eooa, (as it is called by the inhabitants,) where they anchored at eight o'clock the next morning. Cook put ashore, at this island, a ram and two ewes of the Cape of Good Hope breed of sheep, entrusting them to the care of Taoofa, who seemed proud of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewagee, to whom he had given them, slighted the present. Eooa not having as yet got any dogs upon it, seemed to be a more proper place than Tongataboo for the rearing of sheep. As they lay at anchor, this island bore a very different aspect from any they had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful landscape. It is higher than any they had passed since leaving New Zealand, and from its top, which is almost fiat, declines very gently toward the sea. As the other, isles of this cluster are level, the eye can discover nothing but the trees that cover them ; but here the land, rising gently upward, presents an extensive prospect, where groves of trees are only interspersed at irregu- lar distances, in beautiful disorder, and the rest covered with grass. Near the shore, again, it is quite shaded with various trees, among which are the habitations of the natives ; and to the right of their station was one of the most extensive groves of cocoa palms they had ever seen. On the 13th a party made an excursion to the highest part of the island, which was a little to the right of the ships, in order to have a full view of the country. About half-way up, they crossed a deep valley, the bottom and sides of which, though composed of hardly anything but coral rocks, were clothed with trees. Soon after they weighed, and with a light breeze at south-east stood out to sea, and then Taoofa, and a few other natives that were in the ship. • JAMBS COOK. 27? left them. According to the information they received here, this archi- pelago is very extensive. Above 150 islands were reckoned up to thorn by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to ascertain their number ; and Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence, even procured all their names. Fifteen of them are said to be high or hilly, such as Toofoa and Eooa ; and thirty-five of them large. Of these only three were seen this voyage : Hapaee, (which is considered by the natives as one island,) Tongataboo, and Eooa, of the size of the unexplored thirty-two, nothing more can be mentioned, but that they must be all larger than Annamooka ; which those from whom they had received their mformation ranked among the smaller isles. Some, or indeed several of this latter denomination, are mere spots, without inhabitants. But it must be left to future navigators to introduce into the geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean the exact situation and size of near a hundred more islands in this neigh- bourhood, which they had not an opportunity to explore. At eleven o'clock in the morning of the 8th of August, land was seen, bearing north-north-east, nine or ten leagues distant. At first it appeared in detached hills, like separate islands ; but as they drew nearer, found that they were all connected. Two canoes having advanced to about the distance of a pistol shot from the ship, there stopped. After making several unsuccessful attempts to induce these people to come alongside, they made sail to the north, but not without getting the name of their island, which they called Toobouai. It is situated in the latitude of 23 degrees 25 minutes south, and in 210 degrees 37 minutes east longitude. Its greatest extent, in any direction, exclusive of the reef, is not above five or six miles. At daybreak, on the morning of the 12th, they saw the Island of Maitea. Soon after, Otaheitc made its appearance. A chief, whom they had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who chanced to be now at this corner of the island, and three or four more persons, all of whom knew Omai before he embarked with Captain Furneaux, came on board. Yet there was nothing tender or striking in their meet- ing. On the contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifierence on both sides, till Omai, having taken his brother down into the cabin, opened the drawer where he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few. This being presently known among the rest of the natives upon deck, the face of affairs was entirely turned, and Ootee, who would hardly speak to Omai before, now begged that they might be tayos, (friends,) and ex- change names. Omai accepted of the honour, and confirmed it with a present of red feathers ; and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a hog. Soou after they had anchored, Omai's sister came on board to see him. They were happy to observe that, much to the honour of both, their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest affection, easier to be conceived than to be described. Early in the morning of the 1st of September, a messenger arrived from Towha, to acquaint Otoo that he had killed a man to be sacrificed to the Eatooa, to implore the assistance of the god against Eimeo, which had revolted from the authority of Otaheite. This act of worship was to be performed at the great Morai at Attahooroo ; and Otoo's presence, it seems, was absolutely necessary on that solemn occasion. That the offering of human sacrifices is part of the religious institutions of this island, has been mentioned by M. de Bougainville, on the authority of the native whom he carried with him to France. The unhappy victim offered to the object of their worship upon thi» 24 378 * VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. • occasion seemed to be a middle-aged man ; and, as they were told, W«i a toutou, that is, one of the lowest class of the people. Those who are devoted to suffer, in order to perform this bloody act of worship, are never apprised of their fate, till the blow is given that puts an end to their ex- istence. Whenever any one of the great chiefs thinks a human sacrifice necessary, on any particular emergency, he pitches upon the victim. Some of his trusty servants are then sent, who fall upon him suddenly, and put him to death with a club, or by stoning him. The king is next acquainted with it, whose presence at the solemn rites that follow is absolutely necessary. At daybreak, in the morning of the SOth, after leaving Otaheite, they stood for the north end of Eimeo ; the harbour which they wished to ex- amine being at that part of it. Omai, in his canoe, having arrived there long before them, had taken some necessary measures to show the place. This harbour, which is called Taloo, is situated upon the north side of the island, in the district of Oboonohoo, or Poonohoo. It rans in south, or south by east, between the hills, above two miles. For security and goodness of its bottom, it is not inferior to any harbour at any of the islands in this ocean. On the 2d Maheine, the chief of the island, paid them a visit. He ap- proached the ship with great caution, and it required some persuasion to get him on board. Probably he was under some apprehensions of mis- chief from them, as friends of the Otaheiteans ; these people not being able to comprehend how they can be friends with any one, without adopt- ing, at the same time, his cause against his enemies. Maheine was accompanied by his wife, who is sister to Oamo, of Otaheite. This chief, who, with a few followers, has made himself in a manner independent of Otaheite, is between forty and fifty years old. He is bald-headed, which is rather an uncommon appearance in these islands at that age. He wore a kind of turban, and seemed ashamed to show his head. Having left Eimeo with a gentle breeze and fine weather, at daybreak the next morning saw Huaheine. At noon they anchored at the north entrance of Owharre harbour, on the west side of the island. Their ar- rival brought all the principal people of the island to the ships the next morning, being the 13ih. This was just what they wished, as it was high time to think of settling Omai ; and the presence of these chiefs would enable Cook to do it in the most satisfactory manner. One of them im- mediately expressed himself to this eflFect : *' that the whole island of Huaheine, and everything in it, were the captain's ; and that, therefore, he might give what portion of it he pleased to his friend." Omai, who, like the rest of his countrymen, seldom sees things beyond the present moment, was greatly pleased to hear this, thinking, no doubt, that he should be very liberal, and give him enough. Upon this, some chiefs, who had left the assembly, were sent for ; and, after a short consultation among themselves, the request was granted by general consent, and the ground immediately pitched upon, adjoining to the house where the meet- ing was held. The extent along the shore of the harbour was about two hundred yards ; and its depth, to the foot of the hill, somewhat more ; but a proportional part of the hill was included in the grant. Omai now began seriously to attend to his own aflfairs, and repented heartily of his ill-judged prodigality while at Otaheite. He found at Hua- heine a brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law — the sister being married. But these did not plunder him, as he had lately been by his other relations. vAs soon as Omai was settled in his new habitation, Cook began to think lAMES COOK. 279 of leaving the island ; and got everything oif from the shore this evening, except the horse and mare, and a goat big with kid, which were left in the possession of his friend, with whom they were now finally to part. He also gave him a boar and two sows of the English breed ; and he had got a sow or two of his own. The horse covered the mare while at Otaheite ; so that the introduction of a breed of horses into these islands is likely to have succeeded by this valuable present. He had picked up at Otaheite four or five toutous ; the two New Zealand youths remained with him ; and his brother, and some others, joined him at Huaheine ; so that his family consisted already of eight or ten persons, if that can be called a family to which not a single female as yet belonged, nor was Ukely to belong, unless its master became less volatile. At present, Omai did not seem at all disposed to take unto himself a wife. The house which they erected for him was twenty-four feet by eighteen, and ten feet high. His European weapons consisted of a musket, bayonet, and cartouch-box, a fowling-piece, two pair of pistols, and two or three swords or cutlasses. On the 2d of November, at four in the afternoon, they took the advan- tage of a breeze which then sprung up at east, and sailed out of the har- bour. Omai went ashore, after taking a very aflfectionate farewell of all the officers. He sustained himself with a manly resolution till he came to the captain ; then his utmost efforts to conceal his tears failed ; and Mr. King, who went in the boat, said that he wept all the time in going ashore. The boat which carried Omai having returned to the ship, they stood over for Ulietea, where they intended to touch next. In the morning of the 7th of December, took the advantage of a light breeze ; and, with the assistance of all the boats, got out to sea, with the Discovery in company. As soon as they were clear of the harbour, they steered for Bolabola. Oreo, and six or eight men more from Ulietea, took a passage with them. Indeed most of the natives in general, except the chief himself, would have gladly taken a passage to England. At sunset, being the length of the south point of Bolabola, they shortened sail, and spent the night, making short boards. At daybreak, on the 8th, made sail for the harbour, which is on the west side of the island. After leaving Bolabola, they steered to the northward. On the 24th, after daybreak, land was discovered. Upon a nearer approach, it was found to be one of those low islands so common in this ocean ; that is, a narrow bank of land enclosing the sea within. A few cocoa nut trees were seen in two or three places ; but, in general, the land had a very barren appearance. As they kept their Christmas here, it was called Christmas Island. They judged it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in circumference. On the 2d of January resumed their course to the north. At daybreak in the morning of the 18ih, an island made its appearance, bearing north- east by east ; and soon after saw more land bearing north, and entirely detached from the former. Latitude at this time, 21 degrees 12 minutes north, and longitude 200 degrees 41 minutes east. At this time they were in some doubt whether the land was inhabited ; but this doubt was soon cleared up, by seeing some canoes coming off from the shore toward the ships. They had from three to six men each ; and, on their approach, they were agreeably surprised to find that they spoke the language of Otaheite and of the other islands lately visited. Cook, in the course of his voyages, never before met with the natives of any place so much asto- nished as these were upon entering a ship. Their eyes were continually 2S0 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. flying from object to object ; tbe wildness of their looks and gestures fully expressing their entire ignorance about everything they saw, strongly mark- ing that, till now, they had never been visited by Europeans. The ships being stationed, Cook went ashore, with three armed boats and twelve marines, to examine the water and to try the disposition of the inhabitants. The very instant he leaped on land, the collected body of natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble posture till, by expressive signs, he prevailed upon them to rise. They then brought a great many small pigs, which they presented to him, with plantain trees, using much the same ceremonies practised on such occa- sions at the Society and other islands. A trade was set on foot for hogs and potatoes, which the people gave in exchange for nails and pieces of iron formed into something like chisels. They met with no obstruction in watering ; on the contrary, the natives assisted the men in rolling the casks to and from the pool, and readily performed whatever they required. At daybreak, on the 24th, they found that the currents had earned the ship to the north-west and north ; so that the west end of the island, upon which they had been, called Atooi by the natives, bore east, one league distant ; another island, called Oreehoua, west by south ; and the high land of a third island, called Oneeheow, from south-west by west to west-south-west. Of what number this newly-discovered archipelago consists must be left for future investigation. They saw five, whose names, as given by the natives, are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. They named the whole group the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the Earl of Sandwich. Those they saw are situated between the latitude of 21 degrees 30 minutes and 22 degrees 15 minutes north, and between the longitude of 199 degrees 20 minutes and 201 degrees 30 minutes east. The inhabitants are of a middling stature, firmly made, with some ex- ceptions, neither remarkable for a beautiful shape, nor for striking features, which rather express an openness and good-nature, than a keen intelligent disposition. They are vigorous, active, and most expert swimmers ; leaving their canoes upon the most trifling occasion, diving under them, and swim- ming to others, though at a great distance. It was very common to see women with infants at the breast, when the surf was so high that they could not land in the canoes, leap overboard, and, without endangering their little ones, swim to the shore through a sea that looked dreadful. After the Discovery had joined, they stood away to the northward. On the 6th of March, being in the latitude of 44 degrees 10 minutes north, and the longitude of 234^ degrees cast, at daybreak the next morning the long looked-for coast of New Albion was seen, distant ten or twelve leagues. In the morning of the 20th, standing to the north-ca'st, they again saw the land. Between two points the shore forms a large bay, which they called Hope Bay ; hoping, from the appearance of the land, to find in it a good harbour. The event proved they were not mistaken. Three canoes came off to the ship ; in one of these were two men, in another six, and in the third ten. Having come pretty near, a person in one of the last two stood up, and made a long harangue, inviting them to land by his gestures. At the same time he kept strewing handsful of feathers toward them, and some of his companions threw handsful of a red dust or powder in the same manner. The person who played the orator wore the skin of some animal, and held in each hand something which rattled as he kept shaking it. A great many canoes, filled with the natives, were about the ships, and JAMES COOK. 281 8 trade commenced, which was carried on with the strictest honesty on both sides. The articles they offered for sale were skins of various animals, such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons, pole-cats, martins, and in particular of the sea-otters, which are found at the islands east of Kam- tschalka. Besides the skins in their native shape, they also brought gar- ments made of them, and another sort of cloihing made of the bark of a tree, or some plant like hemp ; weapons, such as bows, arrows, and spears,' fish-hooks, and instruments of various kinds, wooden vizors of many dif- ferent monstrous figures, a sort of woollen stutf, or blanketing, bags filled with red ochre, pieces of carved work, beads, and several other little or- naments of thin brass and iron, shaped like a horse-shoe, which they hang at their noses, and several chisels, or pieces of iron, fixed to handles. From their possessing which metals, they had either been visited before by some civilized nation, or had connexions with tribes on their continent, who had communication with them. But the most extraordinary of all the articles brought to the ships for sale, were human skulls and hands not yet quite stripped of the flesh, which they made their people plainly understand they had eaten ; and, indeed, some of them had evident marks they had been upon the fire. They had but too much reason to suspect, from this circumstance, that the horrid practice of feeding on their ene- mies is as prevalent here as at New Zealand and other South Sea Islands. For the various articles which they brought, they took in exchange knives, chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or any kind of metal. Glass beads they were not fond of, and cloth of every sort they rejected. On their arrival in this inlet, Cook had honoured it with the name of King George's Sound ; but afterward found that it is called Nootka by the natives. The entrance is situated in the east corner of Hope Bay, in the latitude of 49 degrees 33 minutes north, and in the longitude of 233 degrees 12 minutes east. Having put to sea on the evening of the 26th, with strong signs of an approaching storm, these signs did not deceive them. Fortunately the wind veered no farther southerly than south-east ; so that, at daylight the next morning, they were quite clear of the coast. In latitude 68 degrees 53 minutes, and longitude 220 degrees 52 minutes, the summit of an elevated mountain appeared above the horizon, bearing north 26 degrees west, and, as was afterward found, forty leagues distant. They supposed it to be Beering's Mount St. Elias ; and it stands by that name in their chart. To an inlet, which they now entered, Cook gave the name of Prince "William's Sound. To judge of this sound from what they saw of it, it occupies at least a degree and a half of latitude, and two of longitude, exclusive of the arms or branches, the extent of which is not known. The natives, who came on several visits, were generally not above the common height, though many of them were under it. They were square, or strong- chested ; and the most disproportioned part of their body seemed to be their heads, which were very large, with thick short necks ; and large broad or spreading faces, which, upon the whole, were flat. Their eyes, though not small, scarcely bore a proportion to the size of their faces ; and their noses had full, round pomts, hooked or turned up at the tip. Their teeth were broad, white, equal in size, and unevenly set. Their hair was black, thick, straight, and strong, and their beards, in gene:>al, thin or wanting ; but the hairs about the lips of those who have them were stiff or bristly, and frequently of a brown colour. And several of tho elderly men had even large and thick, but straight, beards. 24* 282 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. After leaving this sound, they steered ta the south-west, with a gentle breeze at north-north-east. From Cape Bede the coast trended north- east by east, with a chain of mountains inland, extending in the same direction. The land on th€ coast was woody, and tiiere seemed to be no deficiency of harbours. They discovered low land in the middle of an inlet, extending from north-north-east to north-east by east half east. As it continued calm all day, they did not move till eight o'clock in the evening, when, with a light breeze at east, they weighed and stood to the north, Xip the inlet. Until they got thus far, the water had retained the same degree of saltness at low as at high water, and at both periods was as salt as that in the ocean. But now the marks of a river displayed themselves. The water taken up this ebb, when at the lowest, was found to be considerably fresher than any hitherto tasted : insomuch that Cook was convinced they were in a large river, and not in a strait, communicating with the northern seas. By means of this river and its several branches a very extensive inland communication lies open. They traced it as high as the latitude of 61 degrees 30 minutes, and the longitude of 210 degrees, which is seventy leagues or more from its entrance, without seeing the least appearance of its source. If the discovery of this great river, which promises to vie with the most considerable ones already known to be capable of extensive inland navigation, should prove of use either to the presenter to any future age, the time spent in it ought to be the less regretted. Captain Cook having here left a blank, which he bad not filled up with any particular name. Lord Sandwich directed, with the greatest propriety, that it should be called Cook's River. As soon as the ebb tide made they weighed, and, with a light breeze, plied down the river. At eight in the evening the Island of St. Hermo- genes extended from south half east to south-south-east a quarter east. On the 17th the wind was between west and north-west, a gentle breeze, and sometimes almost calm. The weather was clear, and the air sharp and dry. At noon the continent extended from south-west to north by east, ihe nearest part seven leagues distant. A large group of islands, lying about the same distance from the continent, extended from south 26 degrees west, to south 52 degrees west. They had now land in every direction. That to the south extended to the south-west, in a ridge of mountains ; but their sight could not determine whether it composed one or more islands. They afterward found it to be only one island, and known by the name of Oonalaska. Mr. Anderson, the surgeon, who had been lingering under a consump- tion for more than twelve months, expired, 2d of August. He was a sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well skilled in his own pro- fession, and had acquired considerable knowledge in other branches of science. Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to the west- ward, twelve leagues distant. It was supposed to be an island ; and, to perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom Cook had a very great regard, he named it Anderson's Island. The point of land which Cook named Cape Prince of Wales is the more remarkable, by being the most western extremity of all America hitherto known. It is situated in the latitude of 65 degrees 46 minutes, and in the longitude of 168 degrees 5 minutes west. At daybreak, on the 10th, re- sumed their course to the west for the land seen the preceding evening. Between the south-wes*^^ extreme and a point which bore west, two leagues distant, the shore forms a large bay, in which they anchored at ten o'clock in the forenoon. At first they supposed this land to be a part of the island JAMES COOK. 283 of Alaschka. But from the figure of the coast, the situation of the oppo- site shore of America, and from the longitude, they soon began to think that it was, more probably, the country of the Tsehutski, or the eastern extremity of Asia, explored by Beering, in 1723: A breeze of wind springirig up at north, they weighed, and stood to the westward, which course soon brought them into deep water ; and, during the 12th, plied to the north, both coasts being in sight, but they kept nearest to that of America. Next morning the wind blew a strong gale, which abated at noon : and the sun shining out, they were, by observation, in the latitude of 68 de- grees 18 minutes. Some time before noon next day perceived a bright- ness in the northern horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called the blink. It was little noticed, from a supposition that it was improbable they should meet with ice so soon. About an hour after, the sight of a large field of ice left them no longer in doubt. At half-past two tacked close to the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, being then in the latitude of 70 degrees 41 minutes, not being able to stand on any further. They now stood to the southward ; at this time the weather, which had been hazy, clearing up a little, they saw land extending from south to south- east by east, about three or four miles distant. The eastern extreme forms a point, which was much encumbered with ice ; for which reason it obtained the name of Icy Cape, Its latitude is 70 degrees 29 minutes, and its longitude 163 degrees 20 minutes. Having now fully satisfied himself, Cook thought it high time to think of leaving these northern regions, and to retire to some place during the winter where he might procure refreshments for his people, and a small supply of provisions. Petropaulowska, or the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, in Kamtschalka, did not appear likely to furnish either the one or the other, for so large a number of men. No place was so conveniently within reach as the Sandwich Islands. To them, therefore, they de- termined to proceed. On the 2d of October, at daybreak, saw the -Island of Oonalaska, bearing so«th-east. At one o'clock, in the afternoon of the 3d, they anchored in Samganoodha Harbour. They got plenty of fish, at first mostly salmon, both fresh and dried, which the natives brought. Some of the fresh salmon was in high perfection, but there was one sort, called hook- nosed, from the figure of its head, that was but indifferent. They drew the seine several times at the head of the bay, and caught a good many salmon-trout, and once a halibut that weighed two hundred and fifty-foui pounds. The fishery failing, they had recourse to hooks and lines. A boat was sent out every morning, and seldom returned without eight or ten halibut, which was more than sufficient to serve all the people. The halibut were excellent, and there were few who did not prefer them to salmon. In the morning of the 26th of October, th'ey put to sea from Samga- noodha harbour ; and as the wind was southerly, stood away to the west- ward. They continued to steer to the southward till daylight in the morning of the 25th of November, at which time they were in the latitude of 20 degrees 55 minutes. At daybreak, next morning, land was seen extending from south-south-east to west. It was supposed that they savr the extent of the land to the east, but not to the west. They were now satisfied that the group of the Sandwich Islands had been only imperfectly discovered ; as those of them visited in their progress northward all lie to the leeward of their present station. Seeing some canoes coming ofl, they brought-to. As soon as they got alongside, many of the people, who 284 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. conducted them came into the ship, without the least hesitation. They found them to be of the same nation with the inhabitants of the islands morft to leeward, already visited ; and they knew of their having been there. In the evening they discovered another island to windward, which the natives call Owyhee. The name of that off which they had been for some days is Mowee. At seven in the evening were close up with the north side of Owyhee. In the morning of the 2d, they were surprised to see the summits of the mountains covered with snow. They did not appear to be of any extraordinary height ; and yet, in some places, the snow seemed to be of a considerable depth, and to have lain there some time. At daybreak, on the 16th, seeing the appearance of a bay, Cook sent Mr. Bligh, with a boat from each ship, to examine it, being at this time three leagues off. At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, they anchored in the bay called by the natives Karakakooa. The ships continued to be much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a multitude of canoes. They had nowhere, in the course of their voyages, seen so numerous a body of people assembled at one place. For, besides those who had come off in canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and many hundreds were swimming round the ships like shoals of fish. They could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene ; and perhaps there were few on board who now lamented their having failed to find a northern passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment they owed having it in tlieir power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to enrich the voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed in many respects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Euro- peans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean. Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the Island of Owyhee, in a district called Akona. It is about a mile in depth, and bounded by two low points of land, at the distance of half a league. On the north point, which is flat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa ; and at the bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa nut trees, there is another village of a more considerable size, called Kakooa ; beSweeiT them runs a high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea-shore. As soon as the inhabitants perceived their intention of anchoring in the bay, they came off from the shore in astonishing numbers, and expressed their joy by singing and shouting, and exhibiting a variety of wild and ex- travagant gestures. The sides, the decks, and rigging of both ships, were soon completely covered with them ; and a multitude of women and boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came swimming round in shoals, many of whom, not finding room on board, remainetl the whole day playing in the water. Among the chiefs who came on board the Resolution, was a young man, called Pareea, whom they soon perceived to be a person of great authority. On presenting himself to Captain Cook, he told him, that he was Jakanee to the king of the island, who was at that time engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and was expected to return within three or four days. A few presents from Captain Cook attached him entirely to their interests, and he became exceedingly use- ful in the management of his countrymen. Kaneena, another of their chiefs, likewise attached himself to Captain Cook. Both these were men of strong and well proportioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably pleasing. Their two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a third chief, named Koah, who was a priest, and had been, in his youth, a distinguished warrior. He was a little old man, of an emaciated figure j JAMES COOK, 285 his eyes exceedingly sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous scurf, the effects of an immoderate use of the ava. Being led into the cabin, he approached Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw over his shoulders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought along with lum. During the rest of the time they remained in the bay, whenever Captain Cook came on shore, he was attended by one of the priests, who went before him, giving notice that the Orono had landed, and ordering the people to prostrate themselves. The same person also constantly accom- panied him on the water, standing in the bow of the boat, with a wand in his hand, and g ving notice of his approach to the natives, who were in canoes, on which they immediately left offpaddling and lay down on theii faces till he had passed. Whenever he stopped at the observatory, Kai- reekeea and his brethren immediately made their appearance with hogs, cocoa nuts, bread fruit, &c., and presented them with the usual solemni- ties. It was on these occasions that some of the infeiior chiefs frequently requested to be permitted to make an offering to the Orono. When this was granted, they presented the hog themselves, generally with evident marks of fear in their countenances ; while Kaireekeea and the priests chanted their accustomed hymns. The 25th the king, in a large canoe, attended by two others, set out from the village, and paddled toward tho ships in great stale. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In the first canoe was Terrcooboo and his chiefs, dressed in their rich fea- thered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers : in the second came the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and his brethern, with their idols displayed on red cloth. These idols were busts of a gigantic size, made of wicker-work, and curiously covered with small feathers of various colours, wrought in the same manner with their cloaks. Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black nut fixed in the centre ; their mouths were set with a double row of the fangs of dogs, and, together with the rest of their features, were strangely distorted. The third canoe was filled with hogs and various sorts of vegetables. As they went along, the priests in the centre canoe sung their hymns with great solemnity ; and, after paddling round tho ships, instead of going on board, as was expected, they made toward the shore at the beach where the English were stationed. Early on the 4th of February they unmoored, and sailed out of the bay, with the Discovery in company, and were followed by a great number of canoes. On the 8th, at daybreak, found that the foremast had again given away ; the fishes which were put on the head, in King George's or Nootka Sound, on the coast of America, being sprung, and the parts so very defective, as to make it absolutely necessary to replace them, and, of course, to unstep the mast. Stood off and on till daylight of ttie 13th, and dropped anchor nearly in the same place as Kefore. Upon coming to anchor, they were surprised to find their reception very different from what it had been on their first arrival ; no shouts, no bustle, no confusion ; but a solitary bay, with only here and there a canoe steal- ing close along the shore. The Discovery's cutter was stolen, during the night, from the buoy where it was moored. It had been Cook's usual practice, whenever anything of consequence was lost at any of the islands in this ocean, to get the king, or some of the principal earees, on board, and to keep them as hostages till it was restored. He immediately marched into the village, where he was received with the usual marks of respect. They found the old king just awoke from sleep : and, after a ehort conversation about the loss of the cutter, from which Captain Cook 286 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. was convinced that he was in nowise privy to it, he invited him to return in the boat, and spend the day on board the Resolution. To this propo- sal the king readily consented, and immediately got up to accompany him. The two boys were already in the pinnace, and the rest of the party near the water-side, when an elderly woman, called Kanee-kabareea, the mother of the boys, and one of the king's favourite wives, came after him, and with many tears and entreaties besought him not to go on board. At the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him, and, insisting that he should go no farther, forced him to sit down. The natives, who were collecting in prodigious numbers along the shore, and had probably been alarmed by the finng of the great guns, and the appearances of hostility in the bay, began to throng round Captain Cook and their king. He, therefore, finding that the alarm had spread too generally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of getting him off without bloodshed, at last gave up the point. Though the enterprise which had carried Captain Cook on shore was abandoned, yet his person did not appear to have been in the least danger, till an accident happened which gave a fatal turn to the affair. The boats which had been stationed across the bay, having fired at some canoes at- tempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a chief of the first rank. The news of his death arrived at the village where the captain was, just as he had left the king, and was walking slowly toward the shore. The ferment it occasioned was very conspicuous ; the women and children were immediately sent off, and the men put on their war-mats, and armed themselves with spears and stones. Several stones were thrown at the marines, and one of the earees attempted to stab Mr. Phillips. Captain Cook now fired his second barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one of the foremost of the natives. A general attack with stones immediately followed, which was answered by a discharge of musketry from the ma- rines and the people in the boats. What followed was a scene of the utmost horror and confusion. Four of the marines were cut off among the rocks in their retreat, and fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy ; three more were dangerously wounded, and the lieutenant, who had received a stab between the shoul- ders with a pahooa, having fortunately reserved his fire, shot the man who had wounded him just as he was going to repeat his blow. The unfortunate commander, the last time he was seen distinctly, was stand- ing at the water'.s edge, and calling out to the boats to cease firing, and to pull in. If it be true, that the marines and boatmen had fired without his orders, and that he was desirous of preventing any farther bloodshed, it is not improbable that his humanity, on this occasion, proved fatal to him ; for it was remarked, that while he faced the natives, none of them had offered him any violence, but that, having turned about to give his orders to the boats, he was stabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the water. On seeing him fall, the islanders set up a great shout, and his body was immediately dragged on shore, and surrounded by the enemy, who, snatching the dagger out of each other's hands, showed a savage eagerness to have a share in his destruction. Thus fell their great and excellent commander, after a life of so much distinguished and successful enterprise ; his death, as far as regards him- self, cannot be reckoned premature, since he lived to finish the great work for which he seems to have been designed, and was rather removed from the enjoyment, than cutoff from the acquisition of glory. How sincerely his loss was felt and lamented by those who had so long found their ge- JAMES COOK. 287 neral security in his skill and conduct, and every consolation under their hardships in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor possible to describe ; much less to paint the horror with which they were struck, and the universal dejection and dismay which followed so dreadful and unexpected a calamity. The 2lst, Eappo and the king's son came on board, and brought with them the remaining bones of Captain Cook, the barrel of his gun, his shoes, and some other tritles that belonged to him. Eappo took great pains to convince them that Terreooboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself, were most heartily desirous of peace ; that they had given the most convincing proof of it in their power ; and that they had been prevented from giving it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still their enemies. He lamented, with the greatest sorrow, the death of six chiefs they had killed, 80me of whom, he said, were among their best friends. The cutter was taken away by Pareea's people ; and that it had been broken up the next day. The arms of the marines, he assured them, had been carried off by the common people, and we;re irrecoverable, the bones of the chief alone having been preserved, as belonging to Terreooboo 'and the earees. Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to their great and unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to taboo all the bay ; and in the afternoon,' the bones having been put into a coffin, and the service read over them, they were committed to the deep with the usual military honours. They got clear of the land about ten o'clock, and hoisting in the boats, stood to the northward. Captain Gierke determined, without farther loss of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning weighed, and stood to the norihward till daylight on the 28th, when they bore away for that island. On the 8lh of March, at nine in the morning, weighed, and sailed toward Oneeheow, and at three in the afternoon anchored in twenty fathoms water, nearly on the same spot as in the year 1778. On the 15th of March, at seven in the morning, weighed anchor, and on the 23d of April, at six in the morning, being in latitude 52 degrees 9 minutes, and longitude 160 degrees 7 minutes, on the fog clearing away, the land of America appeared in mountains covered with snow. On the 25th had a transient view of the entrance of Awatsha Bay ; but, in the prtesent state of the weather, were afraid of venturing into it. Having passed its mouth, which is about four miles long, they opened a large circular bason of twenty-five miles in circumference ; and at half-past four came to an anchor in six fathoms water, being afraid of running foul on a shoal, or some sunk rocks, which are said, by Muller, to lie in the channel of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. The middle of the bay was full of loose ice, drifting with the tide ; but the shores were still entirely blocked up with it. Great flocks of wild fowl were seen of vari- ous species ; likewise ravens, eagles, and large flights of Greenland pigeons. They examined every corner of the bay with glasses, in search of the town of St. Peter and St. Paul ; which, according to the accounts given at Oonalaska, they had conceived to be a place of some strength and consideration. At length they discovered, on a nariow point of land to the north-north-east, a few miserable log-houses and some conical huts raised on poles, amounting in all to about thirty ; which, from their situation, notwithstanding all the respect they wished to entertain for a Russian ostrog, they were under the necessity of concluding to be Petro- paulowska. In company with Major Behm, the governor, was Captain Shmaleff, 288 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. the second in command, and another officer, with the whole body of the merchants of the place. They conducted them to the commander's hous^e, where they were received by his lady with great civility, and found tea and other refreshments prepared. After the first compHments were over, Mr. Webber was desired to acquaint the major with the object of the journey, with their want of naval stores, flour, and fresh provisions, and other necessaries for the ships' crews, and at the same time to assure him they were sensible, from what they had already seen of the condition of the country about Awatsha Bay, they could not expect much assistance from him in that quarter. The houses in Bolcheresk, the capital, are all of one fashion, being built of logs, and thatched. That of the commander is much larger than the rest, consisting of three rooms of a considerable size, neatly prepared, and which might have been reckoned handsome if the talc, with which the windows were covered, had not given ihem a poor and disagreeable appearance. The town consists of several rows of low buildings, each consisting of fiv€ or six dwellings, connected together with a long com- mon passage running the lengtli of them, on one side of which is the kitchen and store-house, and on the other the dwelling apartments. Besides these, there are barracks for the Russian soldiers and Cossacks, R well-looking church, and a count-room, and, at the end of the town, a great numVjer of halagans, belonging to the Kamtschatdales. The in- habitants, taken altogether, amount to between five and six hundred. In the evening the major gave a handsome entertainment, to which the principal people of the town of both sexes were invited. The next morn- mg they applied privately to the merchant Fedositsch to purchase some tobacco for the sailors, who had now been upward of a twelvemonth without this favourite commodity. However, this, like all other transac- tions of the same kind, came immediately to the major's knowledge ; and they were soon after surprised to find in their house four bags of tobacco, weighing upvi^ard of 100 pounds each, which he begged might be pre- sented, in the name of himself and the garrison under his command, to the sailors. On the 16th of June, at daylight, weighed anchor, and stood out of the bay. At ten at night, July 5th, the weather becoming clear, they had an opportunity of seeing, at the same moment, the remarkable peaked, hill near Cape Prince of Wales, on the coast of America, and the east cape of Asia, with the two connected islands of St. Diomede between them. On the 21st, the wind freshening and the fog clearing away, they saw the American coast to the south-east, at the distance of eight or ten leagues, and hauled in for it; but were stopped again by the ice, and obliged to bear away to the westward, along the edge of it. Thus a con- nected solid field of ice rendering every effort they could make to a nearer approach to the land fruitless, they took a last farewell of a north-east passage to Old England. On the 22d of August,. 1779, died Captain Charles Clerke, in the thirty-eight year of his age. He died of a con- sumption, which had evidently commenced before he left England, and of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. At noon, on the 25th, a fresh breeze springing up from the eastward, they stood in for the entrance of Awatsha Bay ; when, by the help of a fresh breeze, they anchored in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. Captain Gore made out the new commissions, in consequence of Captain Gierke's death, appointing himself to the command of the Resolution, and Lieutenant King to the command of the Discovery. JAMES COOK. 289 At six o'clock in the evening of the 9th of October, having cleared the entrance of Awatsha Bay, they steered to the south-east, with the wind north-west and by west. At daybreak, on the 13th, they saw the second of the Kurile Islands, (called by the Russians Paramousir.) This land is very high, and almost entirely covered with snow. At daybreak of the 26th they had the pleasure of descrying high land to the westward, which proved to be Japan. At this time saw a number of Japanese vessels close in with the land, several seemingly engaged in fishing, and others standing along the shore. They now discovered to the westward a remar- kabU high mountain, with a round top, rising far inland. There is no high grtWflll«4iear it, the coast being of a moderate elevation, and, as far as they coulc^udge, from the haziness of the horizon, much broken by small inlets, ^ In the forenoon of the 29th they passed several Chinese fishing-boats, who eyed them with great indiflference. At nine o'clock of the 31st came to anchor in six fathoms water ; the town of Macao bearing north- west, three leagues distant. While they lay in the Typa, Captain King was shown, in a garden belonging to an English gentleman at Macao, the rock under which, as the tradition there goes, the poet Camoens used to sit and compose his Lusiad. It is a lofty arch, of one solid stone, and forms the entrance of a grotto dug out of the rising ground behind it. The rock is over- shadowed by large spreading trees, and commands an extensive and mag- nificent view of the sea and the interspersed islands. On the 12th of January, 1780, at noon, they unmoored, and scaled the guns. On the 17th had heavy gales from the east by north, with a rough tumbling sea, and the weather overcast and boisterous. In the morning of the 20th, the wind becoming more moderate, they let out the reefs, and steered west by south for Pulo Condore. At six anchored, with the best bovv^er, in six fathoms. Pulo Condore is high and mountainous, and surrounded by several smaller islands, some of which are less than one, and others two miles distant. It takes its name from two Malay words Pulo signifying an island, and Condore a calabash, of which it produces great quantities. It is of the form of a crescent, extending near eight miles from the southernmost point, in a north-east direction ; but its breadth nowhere exceeds two miles. On the 28lh of January unmoored ; and, as soon as they were clear of the harbour, steered south-south-west for PuloTimoan. At daylight on the 3d they came in sight of the Three Islands ; and soon after, of Monopin Hill, on the Island of Banca. From the time of entering the Strait of Banca, they began to experi ence the powerful effects of this pestilential climate. Two of their peo- ple fell dangerously ill of malignant putrid fevers ; which, however, were prevented from spreading, by putting the patients apart from the rest, in the most airy berths. Many were attacked with teazing coughs ; others complained of violent pains in the head ; and even the healthiest among them felt a sensation of suffocating heat, attended by an insufferable lan- gour and a total loss of appetite. In the evening of the 10th of April, the Gunner's Quoin bore north by east, and False Cape east-north-east ; but the wind being at south- west, and variable, prevented their getting into False Bay till the evening of the 12th, when they dropped anchor abreast of Simon's Bay, Cape of Good Hope. On the 12th of June passed the equator, for the fourth time during this 25 290 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. voyage, m longitude 26 degrees 16 minutes west. On the 12th of Aa- gust made the western coast of Ireland^ after a fruitless attempt to get into Port Galway. On the 22d of August, at eleven in the morning, both ships came to an anchor at Stromness ; and on the 4th day of Oc- tober they arrived safe at the Noro, after an absence of four years, two months, and twenty-two days. CAPTAINS PORTLOCK AND DIXON.— 1785-88. This voyage was undertaken for the purposes of commerce ; principally, indeed, for the fur trade, on the north-west coast of America, which had been strongly recommended by Captains Cook and King in their last voyage. Two vessels were fitted out for this purpose, the King George and Queen Charlotte, by a society of merchants and others, the former commanded by Nathaniel Portlock, the latter by George Dkon, both of whom had been with Captain Cook ; the King George having sixty men, the Queen Charlotte thirty. September 20th, they quitted St. Helens, and, proceeding to Guernsey, left it on the 25th. October 16th, saw the Canary Islands, and on the 24th the Cape de Verde group, anchoring for a short time in Port Praya Bay, in St. Jago. Proceeding south, they anchored in Port Egmont, Falkland Islands, January 5th, 1786, where, taking in water, they made sail for States Bay, in Terra del Fuego, and remained some time, no refresh- ments being procurable for the crews at either place, except water. Ha- ving made a good offing from Cape Horn, they had tolerable weather ; and continuing their route without touching at any place, or meeting with anything worthy of notice, dropped anchor the 26th of May, in Karakakooa Bay, in Owyhee, Sandwich Islands. The natives crowded them very much, bartering a variety of articles ; out were, nevertheless, extremely troublesome ; and, from fires being ol^ served at night in all parts of the island, it was judged they were hostilely inclined, this being preparatory to prayers to their deities for success in war. It was also the general opinion, that it would be impossible to water the vessels without a strong guard, which they could not well spare, and which it was clear would bring on endless quarrels ; while the people were probably jealous that these vessels were come to revenge the death of Captain Cook. An inferior chief, who came off among the crowds of natives, said that old Terreooboo, the king, was dead, and that Maiha-Maiha was his successor. Next day they stood out of the bay, lying-to three leagues off, to carry on trade for hogs, plantains, taro, &c., &c., which proved so serviceable that the sick, of whom there were several, began rapidly to recover. Several of the natives being ques- tioned, said, that their principal chiefs were absent, making war with a neighbouring island, which was one reason of their being unwilling to admit strangers on shore at their island. June 1st, anchored in a bay in Woahoo, another of the islands, and were received very civilly by the inhabitants ; but refreshments were scarce, and watering so difficult, that they were obliged to employ the natives, giving nails and other trifling articles in payment, according to the quantity supplied by each canoe. They now stood for another of the islandsi named Oneehow ; and on the 8th anchored in Yam Bay, ■ where supplies of fruit, vegetables, and pigs, were willingly afforded by the principal chief, Abbenooc, who seemed strongly their friend, frora ^RTLOCK AND DIXOJ^. 291 recollecting Captain Portlock along with Cook. He also sent to Atooi for farther supplies, when several large double canoes were sent by the king or chief as presents, which were duly acknowledged by returning others to him as well as to their friend Abbenooc, who exerted himself for their interest ; and from whom they took leave, with regret, on the 13th, standing for the coast of America. July 10th, made the entrance of Cook's River ; and, while looking for good anchorage, were astonished by the report of a great gun ; soon afterward a party of Russians came on board, attended by some In- dians ; but none understanding the language of either, no satisfactory information could be gained from them. The country here is exceeding- ly mountainous, and the more distant hills covered with snow ; those sloping down nearest the shore are covered with pines, birch, and other trees and shrubs ; it was, however, cold, damp, and disagreeable, the ground barren, and the aspect of the whole extremely dreary. Most of the natives had fled from their huts, alarmed, perhaps, by the Russians. Several bears were seen, but none near enough to fire at. Two veins of kennel-coal were found, which burnt very well, and the place was, there- fore, called Coal Harbour. Weighing anchor from this place, they pro- ceeded only a little way and brought up again, when first a single canoe and afterward several others, with many natives, came off to dispose of a few sea otter-skins and other furs, with dried salmon and roots, being most of the refreshments their country affords. They bahaved in a friendly manner, except in a few thefts of iron articles, which, being of no material value, were not taken much notice of. An elderly chief, paying Captain Dixon a visit, informed him that they had a battle with the Russians, in which the latter were worsted, and added, that, from 'the difference of dress, he knew they were of a different nation. Another attempted to persuade them to make war against them ; but this was evaded on the part of the English by the best excuses they could make. Quitting this place, they tried for some time to get into Prince Wil- liam's Sound ; but, by a series of unfavourable winds, failed in this pursuit. September 23d, having laboured in vain to fiad a harbour for their pur- poses, and not being nble to get into King George's Sound, or any other they knew, by bad weather and a variety of dangerous shoals and small islands, they at length stood away for the Sandwich Islands to pass the winter, and return in the spring. November 14th, saw the summit of the high mountain in Owyhee covered with snow, and employed two or three following days in coasting it, the natives bringing off a variety of articles to barter for iron and trinkets. The first mate of the King George reporting, that a bay they intended to anchor in did not admit of good anchorage, this design was dropped. During the time they lay-to, hogs, fowls, wild geese, bread fruit, plantains, and several other things were procured in considerable quantities ; the natives dealing pretty fairly, but committing a variety of thefts, even before their faces, with a de.^- terity almost inimitable. For several days they continued lying-to off the Islands of Movvee and Morotoi, procuring refreshments and receiving visits till the 30th, when both ships bore away for King George's Bay, in Whoaboo, where they anchored in safety, after experrencing a variety of winds from all points of the compass. Here they found everything tabooed, or forbidden, so that it became necessary to court the king's favour ; for which purpose a present was sent* to him, and another to a priest, their acquaintance on the former occasion, v/lio paid them a visit, handing up a pig and plantaio, which in ihesa 292 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. islands are signs of friendship. Tiiis was soon followed by a visit fronj Tahecterre, the king, fcrllowed by all the chiefs, who took off the taboo. The priest was rcmarliable for drinking large quantities of the ava, or yava- juice, for which he had two men in constant attendance chewing the root, which, with their spittle, forms this singular and (to us) nauseous beverage. The yava is a root resembling liquorice in shape and colour. None but the chiefs and priests have permission to use it, and these are never at the trouble of chewing it themselves ; but, as above observed, employ servants ; these begin with chevving a sufficient quantity, and when well masticated, it is put into a wooden bowl kept for the purpose, to which a small quantity of water is added ; the whole is then strained through a cloth, and, like wine in Europe, it thus forms not merely the drink, but the delight of all parlies, feasts, rejoicings, and, in short, every public asse:nblage of the leading people. Its effects, hovvever, are very perni- cious ; it is partly intoxicating, or rather stupifying ; and, by its constant use, the old priest was exceedingly debilitated, and his body covered by a white scurf, resembling the leprosy, which is a common symptom through- out the South Sea islands of its frequent use. The taboo was again put on without any explanation being given, though several canoes nevertheless came off, but without any women, as had been formerly the case. Afterward it was understood that one of them had been detected in the King George eating pork, which being a hei- nous offence, she was taken as soon as she came on shore, and offered a sacrifice to the gods : human sacrifices, it appears, are here, as in most of the South Sea islands, frequently presented, and it is unquestionably the most inhuman and barbarous custom among them. December 19th, weighed, and two days afterward anchored between Atooi and Wymea, where, after paying and receiving some visits, their ' former friend, Abbenooe, came on board with two canoes loaded with provisions, and remained for two or three days, seemingly very well pleased with his new abode. The king also made his appearance ; he was stout and well made, about forty-five years of age, and possessed of more un- derstanding and good nature than any of his subjects. His behaviour to the English displayed much friendship and disinterestedness. Next day he came again, attended by his uncle, a chief of great consequence, named Neeheow-hooa, the greatest warrior of the islands, and crippled with wounds, having lost an eye and likely to lose the other. The surgeon dressed his wounds, and gave him instructions how to proceed in future. January 5th, caught a shark in the King George, thirteeri and a half foet long, eight and a half broad, and six feet in the liver ; forty-eight young ones were in her, about eight inches each in length ; two whole turtles of sixty pounds each ; several small pigs, and a quantity of bones ; 80 that the numbers and the voracity of this fish may be conceived. Next day tire king paid another visit, bringing his eldest son, a fine boy, about twelve years old, named Taaevee. This was meant as a farewell visit, his majesty being about to quit the island for a short time, leaving orders, however, with Abbenooe, to let his friends, the English, be well supplied with all the island afforded during his absence. His uncle, the warrior, also accompanied him, who, in gratitude for the assistance render- ed by the surgeon, presented him a double canoe filled with hogs, for which the veteran persisted in refusing any recompense. From this time to the 10th they were employed in purchasing wood, water, provisions, curiosities, and everything else they wanted ; and now, quitting the ancho/age, proceeded to Yam Bay, in Oaeehow, where, after making a PORTLOCK AND DIXON. 293 few excursions, they departed once more for Wymea Bay, Atooi. Here two chiefs displayed their dexterity, at Captain Portlock's request, in the use of their spears, all who were spectators feeling astonishment and pain at the dangers they incurred in this amusement. The island is tolerably level, the soil mostly a light red earth, which, if cultivated properly, might be very productive. Atappa is a tolerably large village, situated behind a long row of cocoa nut trees, which affords the inhabitants ample shelter from the heat of the sun ; in the swampy ground, of which there is a good deal, the sugar-cane and taso is culti- vated. Their burying-place is a high wooden pile, of a quadrangular form, situated on the side of a hill. The river is not quite a hundred yards over in the widest part, gliding along in a clear smooth stream, except in rainy weather, when the body of water is more tumultuous and muddy. On the 3d of March weighed, and made sail for the coast of America, and on the 24th of April saw Montager Island, coming to anchor in the harbour, where there is sufficient shelter from the prevailing winds. la the evening several canoes come otf, with one or two merr in each, who were highly delighted with the barking of some dogs on board, beginning to whistle, and calling out Towzer ! Towzer ! here ! here ! which occa- sioned considerable surprise to their visiters, who could not account for those few words of English and this manner of addressing these animals. Boats were employed in wooding and watering, others in picking up shell-fish or shooting wild ducks and geese, of which there were a few. The country was covered with snow ; the Russians, from several traces in the woods, had evidently been here. The weather continued very variable, several unsuccessful attempts being made to get into Prince William's Sound ; and only a single straggling inhabitant being seen now and then, so that there was no opportunity to trade. Captain Dixon now made an excursion in his boats up the sound ; and receiving some hints from the natives of a vessel being there, continued his search for several days, and at length got on board a vessel called the Nootka, from Bengal, commanded by Mr. Meares, which had wintered in Snug-corner Cove. The scurvy had made dreadful havoc among them, nearly all the officers and many of the crew having died of this frightful disorder, so that at length the captain was the only person on board able to walk the deck. Along with his first mate he soon after- ward visited the ships, met with a hearty reception, and received such assistance as ho wanted and as the others could afford. From him they learned that few or no furs could be procured here ; that several vessels from India had been already on this coast for the purposes of trade ; and that two or three were expected next month in the same pursuit, which immediately determined our voyagers to separate and push for different parts of the coast, in order to be before their expected rivals ; the Queen Charlotte to proceed to King George's Sound, and Messrs. Hayward and Hill to Cook's River, in the King George's long-boat, the latter to remain where she was for the present. On the 13th May several canoes visited them, in one of which was a chief of great consequence, named Sheenaawa, whose party, like most others, were determined thieves, exerting their ingenuity and tricks for this purpose in an extraordinary degree. They danced, sung, laughed, and diverted the attention of the seamen in every possible way, while slyly their hands were seizing everything on the decks, so that literally they were smiling in their faces and robbing them at the same time. In 25* 294 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. the meantime the Queen Charlotte and the long-boat sailed, while the King George shifted to Hinchinbroke Cove. The appearance of the land here was very unpromising, being covered though at this season, with deep snow ; a few natives made their appearance with skins, who told them that, as the summer advanced, some salmon would be found in the fresh water rivulets, of which there are several in the vicinity. Some of the boats were sent out to trade, which were tolerably successful ; but they also suffered from continual thefts, which were sometimes ac- companied by menaces, if they attempted to resist the plunderers. June 9th, the Nootka left her former anchorage, where she had been Irozen in, and came close to the King George, when the crew of the latter were partly employed in rendering her assistance. Two days afterward ihe long-boat returned from Cook's River with a very good cargo, and was again sent off with orders to return by the 20th of July. On the 19Lh the Nootka sailed. Next day the surgeon took the invalids on shore for an excursion, who, by the use of spruce-beer, which they now brewed in abundance, were rapidly recovering. In the evening observed twa Indian boats and several canoes, in which were about twenty-five natives, who came alongside next morning. Their chief, named Taatucktellingnuke, was paralytic on one side, had a long beard, and seemed about sixty years of age ; his country was called Cheenee- cock, situated toward the south-west part of the sound. He appeared very friendly, made Portlock a present of a skin and some salmon, and would not be satisfied without taking two of the seamen with him for the night, leaving three of his own people as hostages ; these men were treated most kindly by the old chief, and were conducted on board again in due time, satisfied with their host. July I Ith, hauled the seine frequently, when not less than 2000 salmon were caught at each haul ; and so great were their numbers, that ships prepared for the purpose might have obtained any quantity they wished. The long-boat relumed on the 21st, though without so much success as formerly. On the 2Gth sailed from this place. The natives in general are short iu stature, with flat faces and noses, ill-formed legs, but good teeth and eyes ; they wear their hair, which is black and straight, very long, but cut it short on the death«of a relation, this seeming their only method of mourning. The men and women differ little in appearance ; both are extremely fond of ornaments, yet are very filthy in person ; and it is said will, when pressed for food, devour the vermin out of their heads. They are attentive to their women, but jealous of them. Their thiev- ing tiabits seem fixed, the most dexterous being most in esteem, and re- ceiving the greatest applause for the exertion of his talents ; he is also distinguished by a fantastical dress, which, while it excites the notice of the spectators, gives the owner additional opportunities of exerting his fingers at their expense. They live upon whatever animals chance throws in the way, in addition to fish ; the latter are dried in the sun, and when eaten fresh are roasted before a fire. Their winter habitations seem but ill-contrived, being from four to six feet high, ten feet long, eight broad, and built with thick plank; in these confined huts great num- bers sometimes live together ; in summer they wander to and fro as incli- nation or necessity dictates, taking shelter u»der temporary structures ol branches, assisted by their canoes. By the 3d of August had m.ade little j^rogress, from the shifting of the wind. On the 6th were followed by a large Indian boat with twelve per- sons on board, whose language and manners were very different from PORTLOCK AND DIXON. , 295 those of the people of Prince William's Sound ; a few skins were pro- cured of them, but not dressed or stretched like those of the sound. At the approach of evening they wished to take one of the seamen with them on shore for the night, who accordingly went, two hostages being left behind for his safety; next day they returned with him. Their residence, it seems, was near the foot of a hill, beside a rivulet of fresh water ; their house was only a temporary habitation, and they possessed scarcely anything to trade with. In the meantime the long-boat was despatched to seek for furs near Cape Edgecombe. Joseph Woodcock, one of the seamen, again slept on shore with the natives, in a bay near the ship. On the 8ih two large boats visited them, with twenty-five men, women, and children on board, who, very different from their other visiters, seemed very honest, and who were invited to dinner in the cabin, when they relished the English cookery so well, that the dishes were quickly obliged to be replenished. These departed in the evening well pleased with their entertainment, promising to return with the means of trading with their new friends. On the nth a new tribe visited them from the eastward, with about the same number of persons as the last ; four days after the long-boat returned, having had pretty good success, notwithstanding some acts of hostility which they had been compelled to retahate upon the Indians. Another party, from the north-west, were extremely addicted to thieving ; nothing could escape them ; and, when detected, were very impudent, and often threatened those they robbed. The men were of the size of Europeans, of a fierce and savage aspect, using daggers and long spears, easily provoked and ready to indulge their anger. The women at this anchorage, which was named Portlock's Harbour, disfigure themselves by making an incision in the upper lip, in which they wear a piece of wood of an oval form, larger according to their age, so that some were of the size of a tea-saucer ; the weight of this encumbrance drags the lip down, exposing the whole of the lower teeth, which makes a most unsightly appearance, and must also be a real inconvenience. August 22d, weighed and made sail from this coast, having done as much as it seemed likely they could do in the way of trade. September the 28th, made Owyhee, the principal of the Sandwich group, when several canoes came off, with whom a brisk trade for hogs and other refreshments was carried on. At Atooi they found the Nootka and Queen Charlotte had been there, and left letters for the King George. After procuring what necessaries they wanted. Captain Portlock directed his course for China with his cargo of furs ; on the 4ih of November saw Say pan and Tinian, two of the Ladrone Islands ; and on the 21st anchored in Macao Roads, where Captain Dixon was found, whose transadkons shall now be noticed. After separating the Queen Charlotte coasted it for some time, till, seeing an appearance of an inlet, a boat was despatched, which found an excellent harbour, where she soon after anchored. Several canoes came off, from whom some skins were procured, but by no means so many as they had at first reason to expect. The number of inhabitants was about seventy ; the harbour, which is good, was named Port Mulgrave, and is situated in 59 degrees 32 minutes north latitude, and 140 degrees west longitude. The language of these people is quite different from that of Prince William's Sound, or Cook's River, being extremely uncouth and difficult to pronounce. The mode in which they dispose of their dead is remarkable ; the head is separated from the body, and both are v?rapped 296 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. in furs, the former being put into a box, the latter into an oblong chest, which are afterward preserved and disposed of in a fanciful way. June 4th, quitted this place, and kept beating to the southward ; a har- bour was perceived at a distance, which, upon examination by the boats, was found to extend to a considerable distance, with a number of coves here and there, very well calculated for anchorage ; it was named Norfolk Sound. The people were at first civil and well-behaved ; but soon be- came troublesome and thievish, like almost all their brethren on this coast. Their numbers exceed 450, including women and children ; in appearance they resemble the people of Port Mulgrave, their faces being similarly painted, and the lips of the women distorted in the same man- ner. One of the chiefs was in possession of a white shirt, on which he set a great value ; upon examination, it proved to be of Spanish make, two ships of that nation having been on this coast in 1775. Trade here was not very brisk. A creek of considerable extent received the name of Port Banks, in honour of Sir Joseph ; they continued standing to and fro with various success in trade. July 1st, saw an island, and were soon surrounded by Indians, who, after gratifying their curiosity in examining the vessel, began to trade, and soon parted with all their skins. Several fresh tribes visited them almost daily, who, delighted with European articles of barter, were content to leave their furs behind in exchange. The residence of one was strongly fortified, resembling a hippah, or fortified place, in New Zealand ; and, from some circumstances which transpired, JJixon was tempted also to believe they were also, like the New Zealanders, cannibals. Our traders now found it better to keep shifting to and fro than to remain in one place. Proceeding to the eastward, eleven canoes came alongside on the 24th with 180 persons ; but curiosity was the prevailing motive, as they had nothing to sell ; and five days after, no less than 300 men, women, and children, in eighteen canoes, came oflf to indulge their curi- osity ; a number that, on this coast, is rarely found in one community. Their chief had the most savage aspect of any yet seen, his whole appea- rance sufficiently marking him as the leader of a tribe of cannibals. His stature was above the common size, his body spare and thin, and, though seemingly lank and emaciated, his step was bold and firm, his limbs strong and muscular ; his eyes, which were large and goggling, seemed ready to start from their sockets ; his forehead deeply wrinkled, as well by aga as an habitual frown, which, joined to a long visage, hollow cheeks, high cheek-bones, and natural ferocity of temper, rendered him a most formi- dable figure. He however behaved very well to the English, and, by means of a present or two, became their fast friend. August 1st, thought now of joining ihe King George in the sound of that name ; and, making sail for that purpose, fell in, on the 8th, with the Prince of Wales and Princess Royal, two vessels fitted out by the own- ers of the King George and Queen Charlotte, and hearing from them that the former vessel was not in the sound. Captain Dixon made sail for the Sandwich Islands. This extensive portion of America exhibits on the whole the appea- rance of a large continued forest, covered with pines of different species, intermixed with alder, birch, hazel, and in the valleys with wild goose- berry, currant, and raspberry trees ; besides a vast quantity of low brush- wood. The soil on the hills is a compound of rotten moss and decayed trees, which, being carried down with the snows into the valleys, and mixing there with a light sand, forms a soil in which most English vege- PORTLOCK AND DIXON. 297 tables might grow, if assisted a little by art or attention. The numoer of inhabitants, from Cook's River to King George's Sound, may be about 10,000 ; but the country must be very thinly peopled, to which their con- tinual wars necessarily tend. September 2d, made Owyhee, and, after procuring refreshments, stood on for Whahoo, being visited the next day by Abbenooe and the king, by whose commands they received abundant supplies of wood, v/ater, and provisions, of which they were in extreme want, several of the crew being nearly dead with the scurvy. Atooi was their next destination, where the chiefs inquired particularly after their friend Po-pote, (Captain Portlock,) and were desirous of contributing all in their power to the assistance of the ship, every one supplying ihe captain with a liberahty as unbounded as it was unexpected, but which did not go unrewarded ; saws, hatchets, nails, and other iron instruments being given to the men, and buttons, beads, and a variety of ornaments to the women. September 18th, made sail for China, and anchored in Macao Roads the 9th of November, where being joined, as already noticed, by the King George, their meeting was extremely agreeable. Captain Portlock was very much surprised in Canton with his old friend Tiaana, from the Sandwich Islands, who was no less pleased at seeing him, embracing the captain in the most cordial and affectionate manner. As soon as his transports subsided, he asked several questions concerning the people of the islands, and said that he had accompanied Captain Meares hither, who placed him under the immediate care of Mr. Ross, his first mate, to whom he was much attached. During his slay, Tiaana was introduced to every place worthy of notice : he was usually dressed in a cloak and fine feathered cap, and, to show that he was a person of consequence, carried a spear in his hand. Afterward, at the persuasion of Mr. Ross, he wore a light satin waistcoat and a pair of trousers. He frequently attended places of public worship, behaving with the greatest decorum, and joining the congregation in the ceremonies of kneeling or standing, as if he had been all his life regularly accustomed to them. Some of the customs of the Chinese displeased him exceed- ingly, and, during the voyage, was nearly throwing the pilot overboard for some real or imaginary offence ; he was, however, of a kind disposition, displaying frequent instances of humanity as well as generosity. Being once at an entertainment, given by one of the captams at Macao, his com- passion was strongly excited after dinner by seeing a number of poor people, in Sampans, crowding round the vessel and asking alms ; he soli- cited his host's permission to give them some food, remarking it was a great shame to let poor people want victuals, and that in his country there were no beggars. In compliance with his importunities, the broken meat was collected under his care, and he distributed it in the most equal and impartial manner. Tiaana was six feet two inches high, exceedingly well made, but inclined to corpulency ; he had a pleasing animated countenance, fine eyes, and otherwise expressive as well as agreeable features. He was universally liked ; and, previous to his departure for Atooi, the gentlemen at Canton furnished him with bulls, cows, sheep, goats, rabbits, turkeys, &c., -, embarked for Tafoa in the Pandora, one of his tributary islands, the chiefs of which came off to do him homage, which he exem- plified by putting his foot on their heads in the act of obeisance. Con- tinuing the search for th« mutineers, they saw on the 14th the Navigator's Isles of Bougainville, and perceived European clothes in the possession of the natives. The 18th, perceived a cluster of islands, which were called Howe's ; running down the north side they perceived a fine open sound, into which fell some rivers. The natives \yere civil, and seem- ingly much better disposed than those of Annamooka. On the 23d passed rilstart Island, as supposed ; and on the 26th Middleburg Island, from which a few refreshments were procured, anchoring soon after at Anna- mooka, where they were grieved to find the tender had not yet appeared. Once more they proceeded on their voyage, and on the 7th of August made WaUis's Island ; next day another, which they named Greenville's Island, the men of which came off with hostile intentions, armed with clubs, which they flourished in defiance ; but, amazed at the size and novelty of a man-of-war, fled at the report of a musket. The 11th, passed over a shoal-of coral, on which was only eleven fathoms water, to their great astonishment and terror, and in five minutes more could not find bottom. On the 12th discovered an island well wooded, but not in- habited, which received the name of Mitre Island, from the shape of a remarkable promontory. Another small one, near it, was called Cherry's Island. Next day distinguished a third, named after Mr. Pitt ; on the 17th found breakers, under both bows, at midnight ; in the morning dis- covered they were embayed in a double reef, which doubtless will soon be an island. Lieutenant Comer was now sent to look for a passage through a reef in their route, and in the evening they made a signal there was one ; but it was judged prudent, considering their former escapes, to wait for the morning. The ships therefore lay-to, signals being made for the return of the boat, which she had no sooner done than, to the astonishment of all, the ship struck on a reef at a moment when, from the precautions taken, it was thought there was no danger near them. All hands were soon at the pumps, the ship having nine feet water in the hold. At ten o'clock she beat over the reef into fifteen fathoms water, the night dark and stormy, the guns ordered to be thrown overboard, and a sail to be drawn under her bottom ; one of the pum{>s, in addition to their other distress, being rendered useless. The boats which were out could not approach for the violent surf ; at daydawn the water had gained so far that there was no possibiUty of saving the ship ; a council-of-war acquainted the crew with this, who were remarkably obedient and intrepid in their inces- sant labour at the pumps ; the prisoners were now restored to liberty ; the spars, hen-coops, and everything buoyant cut loose, to give as many as possible a last stake for their lives. The water now rushed ia at the 320 VOTAGE#^ ROUND THB WORLD, ports, the ship took a heel, and an officer informing the captain that an anchor at the bow was already under water, at the same time leaping over the quarter into the water, desiring him to follow, which he did. All the crew did the same, when in an instant she took her last heel and was buried in the waves. The boats did all in their power to render assis- tance, but they could not save all, and the cries of the drowning were truly afflicting. When the sun rose they saw a sandy key four miles distant, to which they proceeded ; and, on musterir^ here^ thirty-five sea- men and four prisoners were missing. Very fortunately a small barrel of water, a keg of wine, some biscuit, a few muskets and cartouch-boxes, had been saved ; with a saw and hammer, found in one of the boats, tbcy immediately set about repairing the whole, to fit them for a voyage to the nearest civilized port ; they were four in number, the Pinnace, I^aunch, and Red and Blue Yawls, to carry above 100 men. Having examined their allowance, it was found there were only two small glasses of wine and the weight of a musket-ball of bread to each person for sixteen days ; the distance to Timor, their nearest port, being 1100 miles. No time was therefore to be lost. On the 30th of August this httle s For you, Mahow. On some rain falling, the body was taken under cover and carefully wrapped up. They proceeded to an excellent new house of Whytooa's, where they dined, and returned to Matavai with too large hogs, presented on this mournful occasion by the widow of Mahow. A serious theft of a large quantity of linen belonging to Mr. Broughton, as well as two axes, now demanded the most rigorous inquiry. An addi- tional mortification happened on the 21sc. Towereroo, a Sandwich Is- G. VANCOUVER. 32? lander, (brought out from England in the Discovery,) had, in the course of the preceding night, found means to elope from the ship. After much trouble of investigation, and some coercion, on the 33d the three royal brothers brought back Towereroo, with a variety of expiatory presents. The linen there appeared now no prospect of recovering, without both losing time and having recourse to unpleasant measures ; it was, there- fore, resolved to depart without it ; presents as usual were distributed, and the separation took place with the utmost harmony. Omai, it seems, having died without children, the house which Captain Cook had built for him, the lands th-it were purchased, and the horse, which was still alive, together with such European commodities as re- mained at his death, all descended to Matuara, as king of the island } And, when his majesty is at home, Omai's house is his constant residence. From Matuara they learned that Omai was much respected, and that he frequently afforded great entertainment to him and the other chiefs with the accounts of his travels, and de;jcribing the various countries, objects, &c., that had fallen under his observation ; and that he died universally- regretted and lamented. His deatli, as well as that of the two New Zealand boys left with him by Captain Cook, was occasioned by a dis- order that is attended by a large swelling in the throat, of which very few recover. On the 24th of January the Discovery and Chatham directed their course to the northward, for the first time pomting their heads toward the grand object of the expedition. On tlie 2d of February passed Owyhee, one of the Sandwich Islands, and were honoured by a visit from Tianna, the personage mentioned in Mr. Meares's voyage, who, since his return from China, had taken part with Tamaahmaah against Teamawheere, and, being victorious, these two chiefs had agreed to share the government. Tianna was taken on board to go on to the leeward islands. Tareehooa, who preferred the name of Jack, having been with Mr. Ingram, commanding an American ship, laden with furs, from North-West America, bound to Boston by the way of China, was desirous of continuing on board the Discovery, and to proceed the voyage, which, with consent of the chief,' was complied with. After passing some desolate islands, the Discovery anchored, on the 7th of March, in a bay called Whykete, south of the It-land of Woahoo, on good and safe ground. Some of the inhabitants went on board, and were exceedingly orderly and docile, which appeared the more remarkable, as they had formerly been represented as the most daring and unmanagcabfe of any in the Sandwich Islands. Their new ship-mate, Jack, became very useful ; he took upon him to represent tliem in the most formidable point of view to all his countrymen ; magnifying their powers and numbers, and proclaiming that they were not traders, such as they had been accustomed to see ; but Were belonging to King George, and were all mighty warriors. This being his constant discourse, it is not to be wondered that his countrymen became much intimidated ; and, as this could be productive of no ill consequences, they permitted Jack to proceed in his encomiums, and unanimously agreed it would not be his fault if they were not in high repute among the islanders. The natives having failed in supplying water as expected, Captain Vancouver set sail, on the 8th, for Atooi, where he understood it was to be had without difficulty. Whyhetee Bay hes in latitude 21 degrees 16 minutes 47 seconds, and longitude 202 degrees 9 minutes 37 seconds. Next morning they made AVhymea Bay, on the south side of Atooi. The inhabitants of this island behaved in the same orderly manner, and 328 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. with the same distant civility experienced at Woahoo, and gave the ne- cessary assistance in watering and other operations. The land here was also much the same, and similarly cultivated with the taro plant. Here were found Rowbottom, an Englishman, Williams, a Welshman, and Cole* man, an Irishman, left for the purpose of collecting pearls and sandal-wood for their master, John Kendrick, an American, commanding the Lady Washington, and which was to call for them in her return from China, to take them on board with the pearls and sandal-wood collected. They were visited by two chiefs, No-ma-tee-he-tee and Too, announcing that Enemoh, guardian of the young prince Ta-moo-eree, who was the eldest son of Taio, sovereign of this and the neighbouring islands, together with the prince himself, would b"; with them in a few days. They accordingly came and behaved with the utmost propriety, although, from certaii; ap- pearances of fire, as well as the circumstance of a schooner taken by the Indians at Owyhee, and the cautions of Rowbottom, Captain Vancouver had not been without suspicions of treachery. Enemoh readily went on board, and an exchange was made of presents, which, though liberal on the part of Captain Vancouver, did not give satisfaction ; the great desire of the chief, as of all of them, being to have fire-arms and ammunition, with which the various traders touching at their islands had most impro* pcrly, and even cruelly, supplied the inhabitants. Wednesday, the 14th of iVIarch, the two ships sailed for the coast of America. On the 17th of April they saw land, being part of New Albion, and being then in 39 degrees 27 minutes latitude, and 236 degrees 25 minutes longitude. On the 28th they spoke an American ship, Columbia, Mr. Robert Gray, commander, of Boston, whence she had been absent eighteen months. On the 29th anchored about eight miles within the entrance of the supposed Strait of Juan de Fuca. Of course they made a strict investigation of this passage, and were satisfied that it did not exist. Port Discovery, where the vessels now went to anchor, is a perfectly safe and convenient harbour, having its outer points one mile and three quarters asunder, and situated in latitude 48 degrees 7 minutes, and longi- tude 237 degrees 20^ minutes. The country of New Albion, in this neigh- bourhood, is of a rich fertile soil. In respect to its mineral productions no great variety was observed. Iron ore, in its various forms, was gene- rally found ; and, from the weight and magnetic qualities of some speci- mens, appeared tolerably rich, particularly a kind that much resemble the olood-stone. These, with quartz, agate, the common flint, and a great intermixture of other silicious matter, (most of the stones they met with being of that class,) with some variety of calcareous, magnesian, and argillaceous earths, were the mineral productions generally found. The next place of research was Admiralty Inlet, where the ships anchored oflf Restoration Point. The general information here is little. The natives were much the same, equally ill-made, and their persons besmeared with oil and ochre, and a sort of shinning chaffy mica very ponderous, and in colours resembling black-lead ; but decked more with copper ornaments, while they were not wanting in acts and offers of friend- ship and hospitality, and behaved with perfect decorum and civility. About a dozen of these friendly people had attended at their dinner, one part of which was a venison pasty. Two of them expressing a desire to pass the line of separation drawn between them, were permitted to do so. They sat down by the English, and ate of the bread and fish given them without the least hesitation ; but, on being oflfered some of the venison, they could not be induced to taste it. They received it with G. VANCOUVER. 329 i» great disgust, and presented it round to the rest of the party, by whom it uuderweat a very strict examination. Their conduct on this occasion left no doubt tiiat they believed it to be human flesh, an impression which it was highly expedient should be done away. To satisfy them that it was the flesh of ihe deer, they pointed to the skins of the animal they had about them. In reply to this they pointed to each other, and made signs that could not be misunderstood, that it was the flesh of human beings, and threw it down in the dirt, with gestures of great aversion and displeasure. At length they happily convinced them of their mistake by showing them a haunch they had in the boat, by which means they were undeceived, and some of them ate of the remainder of the pie with a good appetite. On Monday, the 4th of June, the ships' companies were served a good dinner, it bring the anniversary of his majesty's birth ; on which day they designed to take formal possession cf all the countries they had lately been employed in exploring. Pursuing the usual formalities on such occasions, and under the discharge of a royal salute from the vessels, they took possession accordingly of the coast from that part of New Albion in the latitude of 39 degrees 20 minutes, and longitude 236 degrees 26 minutes east, to the entrance of this inlet of the sea, said to be the Straits of Juan de Fuca, as likewise all the coast, islands, &c., by the name of the Gulf of Georgia ; and the continent binding the said gulf, and extending southward to the 46th degree of north latitude, with that of New Georgia, in honour of his majesty. On the 6th of June the Discovery and Chatham sailed from Possession Sound. Having anchored on the 11 th in Strawberry Bay, so named from its producing that excellent fruit in abundance, latitude 48 degrees 36 minutes, and longitude 237 degrees 34 minutes, and there beiug several things necessary to be done, Captain Vancouver and Mr. Paget, in the Discovery's yawl, and Mr. Whidbey, in the cutter, attended by the Chat- ham's launch, explored the neighbourhood. As they were rowing, on the 22d, for Port Grey, purposing there to land and breakfast, they dis- covered two vessels at anchor under the land. They were a brig and a schooner, wearing the colours of Spanish vessels of war, most probably employed in pursuits similar to their own ; and this idea was confirmed. These vessels proved to be a detachment from the commission of Seignior Malaspina, who was himself employed in the Philippine Islands. Seignior Malaspina had, the preceding year, visited the coast, and these vessels, his Catholic majesty's brig the Sutil, under the command of Seignior Don D. Galiano, with the schooner Mexicana, commanded by Seignior Don C. Valdes, both captains of frigates in the Spanish navy, had sailed from Acapulco on the 8th of March, in order to prosecute discoveries on this coast. From these gentlemen Vancouver understood, that Seignior Quadra, the commander-in-chief of the Spanish marine at St. Bias and at California, was, with three frigates and a brig, waiting his arrival at Nootka, in order to negotiate the restoration of those territories to the crown of Great Britain. Their conduct was replete with that politeness and friendship which characterize the Spanish nation ; every kind of useful information they cheerfully communicated, and obligingly expressed much desire, that circumstances might so concur as to admit their respec- tive labours being carried on together. On the 17th of August they were suddenly surprised by the arrival of a brig off the entrance of the cove, under English colours. She was the Venus, belonging to Bengal, of 110 tons burthen, commanded by Mr. Shepherd, last from Nootka, and bound on a trading voyage along these 28* 330 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. • shores. By him they received the pleasant tidings of the arrival of the Dasdalus store-ship, laden with a supply of provisions and stores for their use ; and he acquainted Mr. Baker, that Seignior Quadra v*ras waiting with the greatest impatience to deliver up the settlement and territories at Nootka. Mr. Shepherd had brought with him a letter from Mr. Thomas Newmaster, of the Daedalus, informing Vancouver of a most distressing and melancholy event. Lieutenant Hergest, the commander, Mr. William Gooch, the astronomer, with one of the seamen belonging to the Daedalus, had been murdered by the inhabitants of Whoahoo, while on shore pro- curing water at that island. August 19th, they proceeded from the last station, namely, Point Men- zies, in latitude 52 degrees 18 minutes, longitude S33 degrees 55 minutes, and on the 28th arrived off Nootka Sound. The Chatham, by the partial clearing of the fog, had found her way in some time before ; the Daedalus store-ship and a small merchant brig called the Three Brothers, of Lon- don, commanded by Lieutenant Alder, of the navy, were also there at anchor. Seignior Quadra, with several of his officers, came on board the Discovery on the 29th, where they breakfasted, and were saluted with thirteen guns on their arrival and departure ; the day was afterward spent in ceremonious offices of civility, with much harmony and festivity. Ma- quinna, the native chief of Nootka, who was present on this occasion, had early in the morning, from being unknown to them, been prevented coming on board the Discovery by the sentinels and the officer on deck, as there was not in his appearance the smallest indication of his superior rank. Of this indignity he had complained in a most angry manner to Seignior Quadra, who very obligingly found means to sooth him. Some difficulties now occurred in respect to the particulars of the resti- tution ; but, after written and verbal correspondence, it was agreed that the objections on both sides should be referred to the respective courts. Seignior Quadra, however, having thereafter made farther objections, an additional correspondence took place ; but the Spanish officer insisting, and being positively resolved to adhere to certain principles proposed by him as to the restitution, to which Captain Vancouver could not accede, the latter acquainted him that he should consider Nootka as a Spanish port, and requested his permission to carry on the necessary employments on shore, which he very politely gave, with the most friendly assurance of every service and kind office in his power. It was not till the 12th of October that the Discovery sailed from Nootka, with the Chatham and Daedalus store-ships, bound to the southward. November 15th, discovered anchorage in a most excellent small bay. The herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, grazing on the surrounding hills, were a sight they had long been strangers to, and brought many pleasing reflec- tions. On hoisting the colours at sunrise, a gun was fired, and in a little time afterward several people were seen on horse-back, coining from be- hind the hills down to the beach, who waved their hats, and made other signals for a boat, which was immediately sent to the shore, and on its return they were favoured with the company of a priest of the order of St. Francisco, and a sergeant in the Spanish army, to breakfast. The good friar, after pointing out the most convenient spot for procuring wood and water, and repeating hospitable offers, in the name of the fathers of the Franciscan order, returned to the mission of St. Francisco, which they understood was at no great distance, and to which he gave them the most pressing invitation. While engaged in allotting to the people their diflferent employments, e. VANCOUVER. 331 some saddled horses arrived from the commandant, with a very cordial invitation, which was accepted by the captain and some of the officers. They rode up to the presidio, an appellation given to their miUtary esta- blishments in this country, and signifying a safe-guard. The residence of the friars is called a mission. The Spanish soldiers composing the garrison amounted to thirty-five, who, with their wives, families, and a few Indian servants, composed the whole of the inhabitants. On the left of the church is the commander's house, consisting of two rooms and a closet only, which are divided by massy walls, and communicating with each other by very small doors. Between these apartments and the out- ward wall was an excellent poultry-house and yard, which seemed pretty well stocked ; and between the roof and ceilings of the rooms was a kind of lumber garret ; these were all the conveniences the habitation seemed calculated to afford. On approaching it they found his good lady, who, like her spouse, had passed the middle age of life, decently dressed, seat- ed cross-legged on a mat, placed on a small square wooden platform raised three or four inches from the ground, nearly in front of the door, with two daughters and a son, clean and decently dressed, sittino; by her ; this being the mode observed by these ladies when they receive visiters. The decorous and pleasing behaviour of the children was really admirable, and exceeded anything that could have been expected from them under the, circumstances of their situation, without any other advantages than the education and example of their parents, which, however, seemed to have been studiously attended to, and did them great credit. The next day was appointed for visiting the mission. Accompanied Dy Mr. Menzies and some of the officers, and Seignior Sal, the captain rode thither to dinner. Its distance from the presidio is about a league, in an easterly direction. Its situation and external appeannce in a great measure resembled that of the presidio ; and, like its neighbourhood, the country was pleasingly diversified with hill and dale. The uniform, mild, and kind-hearted disposition of this religious order has never failed to attach to their interest the affections of the natives, wherever they have sat down among them ; this is a very happy circumstance, for their situa- tion otherwise would be excessively precarious, as they are protected only by five soldiers, who reside under the directions of a corporal, in the buildings of the mission at some distance on the other side of the church The natives, however, seemed to have treated with the most perfect in- difference the precepts and laborious example of their truly worthy and benevolent pastors. Deaf to the important lessons, and insensible of the promised advantages, they still remained in the most abject state of un- civilization ; and if we except the inhabitants of Terra del Fuego and those of Van Dieraen's Land, they are certainly a race of the most miserable beings, possessing the faculties of human reason, they ever saw. Their persons, generally speaking, were under the middle size, and very ill made ; their faces ugly, presenting a dull, heavy, and stupid countenance, devoid of sensibility or the least expression. One of their greatest aversions is cleanliness, both in their persons and habitations, which, after the fashion of their forefathers, were still without the most trivial improvement. Their houses were of a conical form, about six or seven feet in diameter at their base, and are constructed by a number of stakes, chiefly of the willow tribe, which are driven erect into the earth in a circular manner, the upper ends of which, being small and pliable, are brought nearly to join at the top, in the centre of the circle. On the 25th they set sail for Monterey, where they found the Daedalus, 832 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. and also Seignior Quadra, with his broad pendant on board the brig Acteon. He, as well as the acting governor, Seignior Anquilla, behaved in the most friendly and liberal manner. Among the articles obtained here, were live cattle and sheep, to be transported to the Sandwich Islands, Port Jackson, and New South Wales, whither Lieutenant Hanson sailed in the Dajdalus, with despatches for Commodore Phillips, having directions to call at Otaheite, to receive on board 21 English seamen, who had been cast av/ay in that neighbourhood. Mr. Broughton also, with the assistance of Seignior Quadra, was enabled to proceed to England through New Spain, with despatches to the admiralty, containing accounts of the hitherto transactions of the voyage, Mr. Puget being appointed to the command of the Chatham. They sailed on the 14th of January, and on the 12th of February ar- rived oft the north-east point of Owyhee. Having, on the 21st of February, reached Tyahtatooa, Captain Van- couver was honoured with a visit from Tamaahmaah, the king of the Island of Owyhee, a chief of an open, cheerful, and sensible mind, com- bined with great generosity and goodness of disposition. He was accom- panied by John Young, an English seaman, who possessed much in- fluence with hnn. The queen and some of his majesty's relations also visited on board. The sole object was to invite and entreat their pro- ceeding to Karakakooa. They were much pleased with the decorum and general conduct of this royal party. Though it consisted of many, yet not one solicited even the most inconsiderable article, nor did they appear to have any expectation of receiving presents. Being determined that nothing should be wanting to preserve the harmony and good understanding that seemed to have taken place between them, and having learned from Young that the royal visiters did not entertain the most distant idea of accepting anything from the captain, until they had first set the ex- ample, he considered this a good opportunity to manifest a friendly dis- position toward them, by presents suitable to their respective ranks and situations. Accordingly, such articles were distributed as they knew were likely to be highly acceptable to the whole party. This distribu- tion being finished, and the whole party made very happy, the king, in addition to what he had before received, was presented with a scarlet cloak, that reached from his neck to the ground, adorned with tinsel lace, trimmed with various coloured gartering tape, with blue ribands to tie it down the front. The looking-glasses being placed opposite to each other, displayed at once the whole of his royal person ; this filled him with rap- ture, and so delighted him, that the cabin could scarcely contain him. His ecstasy produced capering, and he soon cleared the cabin of many of their visiters, whose numbers had rendered it very hot and unpleasant. Ho himself soon followed, and after strutting some little time upon deck, ex- posed himself in the most conspicuous places, seemingly with the greatest indifference, though in reality for the sole purpose of attracting the admira- tion and applause of his subjects. Next morning they reached Karakakooa, the residence of Tamaahmaah ; from whence, before the ship was well secured, eleven large canoes put off from the shore with great order, and formed two equal sides of an obtuse triangle. The largest canoe, being in the angular point, was rowed by eighteen paddles on each side ; in this was his Owyhean majesty, dressed in a primed linen gown that Captain Cook had given to Terreoo- boo, and the most elegant feathered cloak they had yet seen, composed G. VANCOUVER. 333 principally of beautiful bright yellow feathers, and reaching from his shoulders to the ground, on which it trailed. On his head he wore a very handsome helmet, and made altogether a very magnificent appearance. His canoe was advanced a little forward in the procession, to the actions of which the other ten strictly attended, keeping he most exact and regular time with their paddles, and inclining to the right or left, agreeably to the directions of the king, who conducted the whole business with a degree of adroitness and uniformity, that manifested a knowledge of such move- ments and manoeuvre, far beyond what could reasonably have been ex- pected. In this manner he paraded round the vessels with a slow and solemn motion. This not only added a great dignity to the procession, but gave time to the crowd of canoes alongside to get out of the way. He now ordered the ten canoes to draw up in a line under their stern, while, with the utmost exertions of his paddlers, he rowed up along the starboard side of the ship, and though the canoe was going at a very great rate, she was in an instant stopped, with that part of the canoe where his majesty was standing immediately opposite the gang-way. He instantly ascended the side of the ship, and taking hold of the captain's hand, de- manded if they were sincerely his friends 1 To this Vancouver answered in the affirmative; he then said, that he understood they belonged to King George, and asked if he was likewise his friend 1 on receiving a satisfactory answer to this question, he declared that he was their firm good friend ; and, according to the custom of the country, in testimony of the sincerity of their declarations, they saluted by touching noses. He then presented the captain with four very handsome feathered helmets, and ordered the ten large canoes that were under the stern to come on the starboard side. Each of these contained nine very large hogs, while a fleet of smaller canoes, containing a profusion of vegetables, were ordered by him to deliver their cargoes on the opposite side. This supply was more than they could possibly dispose of; some of the latter he was prevailed upon to reserve ; but although their decks, as well as those of the Chatham, •were already encumbered with their good things, he would not suffer one hog to be returned to the shore. The remaining live stock on board, con- sisting of five cows, two ewes, and a ram, were sent on shore in some of his canoes ; these were all in a healthy state, though in low condition, and they had little doubt of their succeeding to the utmost of their wishes. Besides Young, his Owyhean majesty's favourite before-mentioned, there were here also John Smith, an Irishman, who had deserted from an American trader, and Isaac Davis, who had been captured by the islanders in the schooner Fair American. These men behaved extremely well, and had been taken under the special patronage of Tamaahmaah, who was much irritated at the above capture, and the treatment of the peo- ple belonging to the schooner, which was atrociously taken by Tamaahmoo- too, a powerful chief, and his people, but which Tamaahmaah caused to be delivered up to them, to be kept for the benefit of the proprietor. Mr. Metcalf, who had the command of the schooner, was thrown overboard by Tamaahmootoo, who took out of her everything he could before the arrival of the king and Young. In this affair Tianna had also acted a scandalous part, endeavouring, by false insinuations, to prevail on the king to kill Young and Davis ; but his arts were unsuccessful on his majesty, whose sound judgment and humane attentions would have done credit to the sovereign of a more civilized people. On the 4th of March, as soon as dinner was over, they were summoned to a sham- fight on shore ; and as Tamaahmaah considered all ceremonies 334 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. and formalities as adding to his consequence, he requested that the cap- tain would be attended on shore by a guard. They found the warriors assembled toward the north corner of the beach, without the limits of the hallowed ground. The party consisted of about 150 men, armed with spears ; these were divided into three parties, nearly in equal numbers ; two were placed at a little distance from each other ; that on the right was to represent the armies of Titeeree and Taio ; that on the left the army of Taraaahmaah. Their spears on this occasion were blunt-pointed sticks, about the length of their barbed ones, while on each wing they were to suppose a body of troops placed to annoy the enemy with stones from their slings. The combatants now advanced toward each other, seemingly without any principal leader, making speeches as they ap- proached, which appeared to end in vaunts and threats from both parties, when the battle began, by throwing their sham spears at each other. These were parried in most instances with great dexterity ; but such as were thrown with effect produced contusions and wounds, which, though fortunately of no dangerous tendency, were yet very considerable ; and it was admirable to observe the great good humour and evenness of temper that was preserved by those who were thus injured. This battle was a mere skirmish, neither party being supported, nor advancing in any order, but such as the fancy of the individuals directed. Some would advance even from the rear to the front, where they would throw their spears, and instantly retreat into the midst of their associates, or would remain picking up the spears that had fallen without effect. These they would some- times hurl again at the foe, or hastily retreat, with two or three in their possession. Those, however, who valued themselves on military achieve- ments, marched up toward the front of the adverse party, and in a vaunt- ing manner bid defiance to the whole of their adversaries. In their left hand they held their spear, with which, in a contemptuous manner, they parried some of those of their opponents, while with their right they caught others in the act of flying immediately at them, and instantly re- turned them with great dexterity. In this exercise no one seemed to excel his Owyhean majesty, who entered the lists for a short time and defended himself with the greatest dexterity, much to their surprise and admiration, in one instance particularly, against six spears that were hurled at him nearly at the same instant ; three he caught, as they were flying, with one hand ; two he broke, by parrying them with his spear in the other ; and the sixth, by a trifling inclination of his body, passed harmless. This part of the combat was intended to represent the king as having been suddenly discovered by the enemy in a situation where he was least expected to be found ; and the shower of darts that were instantly direct- ed to that quarter were intended to show that he was in the most immi- nent danger ; until advancing a few paces, with the whole body of his army more closely connected, and throwing their spears with the utmost exertion, he caused the enemy to fall back in some little confusion, and he himself rejoined the English, without having received the slightest injury. The consequences attendant on the first man being killed, or being so wounded as to fall on the disputed ground between the contending armies, were next exhibited. This event causes the loss of many lives and much blood in the conflict that takes place, in order to rescue the unfortunate individual, who, if carried off by the adverse party, dead or alive, becomes an immediate sacrifice at the moral. On this occasion the wounded man was supposed to be one of Titeeree's soldiers, and until this unhappy period no advantage appeared on either side ; but now the dispute became a. VANCOUVER. 335 very serious, was well supported on all sides, and victory still seemed to hold a level scale, until at length the supposed armies of Taio and Titee- ree fell back, while that of Tamaahmaah carried off in triumph several supposed dead bodies, dragging the poor fellows (who already had been much trampled upon) by the heels some distance through a light, loose sand ; and who, notwithstanding their eyes, ears, mouth, and nostrils, were by this means filled, were no sooner permitted to use their legs, than they ran into the sea, washed themselves, and appeared as happy and as cheerful as if nothing had happened. In this riot-like engagement the principal chiefs were considered to bear no part ; and, on its being thus concluded, each party sat quietly down on the ground, and a parley, or some other sort of conversation, took place. The chiefs were now supposed to have arrived at the theatre of war, which had hitherto been earned on by the common people only of both parties ; a very usual mode of proceeding among these islanders. They now on both sides came forward, guarded by a number of men armed with spears of great length, called pallaloos. These weapons are never relinquished but by death or captivity ; the former is the most common. They are not barbed, but reduced to a small point, and though not very sharp, yet are capable of giving deep and mortal wounds by the force and manner with which they are used. The missive spears are all barbed about six inches from the point, and are generally from seven to eight feet long. The warriors armed with the pallaloos now advanced with a conside- rable degree of order, and a scene of very different exploits commenced ; presenting, in comparison to what before had been exhibited, a wonderful degree of improved knowledge in military evolutions. This body of men, composing several ranks, formed in close and regular order, constituted a firm and compact phalanx, which in actual service was not easily to be broken. Having reached the spot in contest, thy sat down on the ground about thirty yards asunder, and pointed their pallaloos at each other. After a short interval of silence, a conversation commenced, and Taio was supposed to state his opinion respecting peace and war. The argu- ments seemed to be argued and supported with equal energy on both sides. When peace under certain stipulations was proposed, the pallaloos were inclined toward the ground, and when war was announced, their points were raised to a certain degree of elevation. Both parties put on the ap- pearance of being much upon their guard, and to watch each other with a ^ jealous eye, while this negotiation was going forward ; which, however, not terminating amicably, their respective claims remained to be decided by the fate of a battle. Nearly at the same instant of time they all arose, and, in close columns, met each other by slow advances. This move- ment they conducted with much order and regularity, frequently shifting their ground, and guarding with great circumspection against the various advantages of their opponents ; while the inferior bands were supposed to be engaged on each wing with spears and slings. The success of the contest, however, seemed to depend entirely on those with the pallaloos, who firmly disputed every inch of the ground, by parrying each other's lunges with the greatest dexterity, until some to the left of Titeeree's centre fell. This greatly encouraged Tamaahmaah's party, who, rushing forward with shouts and great impetuosity, broke the ranks of their op- ponents, and victory was declared for the arms of Owyhee, by the sup- posed death of several of the enemy ; these at length retreated ; and, on bemg closely pressed, the war was decided by the supposed death of 336 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Titeeree and Taio ; and those who had the honour of personating these chiefs were, hke those before, dragged in triumph by the heels over no small extent of loose sand)r*)each, to be presented to the victorious Ta- maahmaah, and for the supposed purpose of being sacrificed at his morai These poor fellows, like those before-mentioned, bore their treatment with the greatest good humour. Having sailed from Owyhee, they arrived on the 10th of March off Mowee, of which some parts were cultivated and inhabited, others the re- verse. Besides the attempts to consolidate a peace with the other islands. Captain Vancouver's great object here was to investigate the murders of laeutenant Hergest and Mr. Gooch, at Maokoo. About noon next day, they had the company of a chief named Tomo- homoho, who said he was younger brother to Titeeree, and that he had come, by his orders, to conduct them to the best anchorage at Baheina, where Titeeree himself would shortly meet them. On the l3th they were honoured with the presence of Titeeree, who was considered as king of all the islands to the leeward of Owyhee ; and that from him Taio derived his authority. He came boldly alongside, but entered the ship with a sort of partial confidence, accompanied by several chiefs ; he was greatly debilitated and emaciated ; and, from the colour of his skin, they judged his feebleness to have been brought on by 2in excessive use of the ava. Among the articles presented to him on this occasion was a cloak, similar to those given Tamaahmaah ; this highly delighted him ; and he was also well pleased with the other pre- sents he received. The royal party appearing to be perfectly satisfied of their friendly in- tentions, the captain demanded of Titeeree what offence had been com- mitted by the late Mr. Hergest and Mr. Gooch, to occasion their having been put to death. To this question they all repHed, that neither of those gentlemen, nor any other person belonging to the Daedalus, had, to their knowledge, been guilty of any offence whatever. He then requested to know what was the reason of their having been murdered, and who was the chief that gave orders for that purpose. This question was also an- swered by the solemn declaration of the whole party, that there was no chief present on that melancholy occasion ; nor was any chief in the least degree concerned ; but that the murder was committed by a law- less set of ill-minded men ; and that the instant Titeeree had become acquainted with the transaction, he had ordered all those who had been principally concerned to be put to death ; and, in consequence of his direction, three of the offenders had suffered that punishment. He then desired to know, if three people only had been concerned. The king replied, that many were present at the time, but that only three or four more were concerned in the murder ; who would likewise have suffered death, had they not found means to escape to the mountains, where they had secreted themselves for some time ; but that he understood they had returned, and were now living on or near an estate belonging to Tomo- homoho. After some farther interchange of civilities, and much negotiation re- specting the wished- for peace, Captain Vancouver sailed from Mowee the 18th of March, having Tomohomoho on board, and on the 20th reached Whyteetee, in Whoahoo. One double canoe only made its appearance. In this came James Coleman, one of the three men they found last year, left by Mr. Kendrick, at Atooi. The 21st, Coleman, with Tomohomoho and Tennavee, came on board. The two chiefs desired the captain would O. VANCOtJVER. 537 attend them into the cabin ; where, after shutting all the doors, they inform- ed him that the man who had murdered Mr. Hergest, with two others who had been equally active and guilty, were in the forepart of the canoe, and that no time should be lost in securing them, lest anything should Iran spire, and they should again make their escape. On the 22d a few of the natives were about the ship, but not so many as on the former days. After breakfast, Coleman, with Tomohomoho and Tennavee, came on board. The latter two demanded the immediate execution of the pri- soners. This, however, was not complied with, as it was deemed right that they should again be accused by their own chiefs, in the presence of all the witnesses, of the crime with which they stood charged, in order, if possible, to draw from them a confession of their guilt, and to renew the opportunity which before had been given them, of producing some evidence in proof of their innocence. Nothing, however, could be ex- torted from any of them, but that they were totally ignorant of any such circumstances having ever happened on the island. This very assertion amounted almost to self-conviction, as it is not easy to believe that the execution of their comrades, by Titeeree's orders, for the same offence with which they had been charged, had not come to their knowledge, or that it could have escaped their recollection. Neither the captain nor the officers discovered any reason, from the result of this farther examina- tion, to retract or alter their former opinion of their guilt, or of delivering them over to their own people, to be dealt with according to the direc- tions of their chief. That the ceremony might be made as solemn and awful as possible, a guard of Seamen and marines were drawn up on that side of the ship opposite to the shore, where, alongside of the ship, a canoe was stationed for the execution. The rest of the crew were in readiness at the great guns, lest any disturbance or commotion should arise. One ceremony, however, remained yet to be performed. One of these unfortunate men had long hair ; this it was necessary should be cut from his head before he was executed, for the purpose of being presented, as a customary tribute on such occasions, to the king of the island. They were shocked at the want of feeling exhibited by the two chiefs at this awful moment, who, in the rudest manner, not only cut off the hair, but, in the presence of the poor suffering wretch, without the least compassion for his situa- tion, disputed and strove for the honour of presenting the prize to the king. The odious contest being at length settled, the criminals were taken one by one into a double canoe, when they were lashed hand and foot, and put to death by Tennavee, their own chief, who blew out their brains with a pistol ; and so dexterously was the melancholy office per- formed, that life fled with the report of the piece, and muscular motion seemed almost instantly to cease. The two chiefs were anxious that there should be an interview between the captain and Trytooboory. Reappeared to be about thirty- three years of age, his countenance was fallen and reduced, his emaciated frame \vas in a most debilitated condition, and he was so totally deprived of the use of his legs, that he was under the necessity of being carried about like an infant. Some of the islanders next day, when about midway between Whoahoo and Atooi, took an opportunity to visit the ship. The foremost of these, undertaking so distant a voyage in a single canoe, much attracted their attention ; on her coming alongside, she proved to be without ex- ception the finest canoe they had seen among these islands. This vessel was sixty-one feet and a half long, exceeding, by four feet and a half, the 29 338 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. largest canoes of Owyhee ; its depth and width were in their proper tion of building, and the whole of the workmanship was finished in a verj masterly manner. The size of this canoe was not its only curiosity ; the wood of which it was formed was an infinitely greater, being made out of an exceedingly fine pine tree. As this species of timber is not the produce of any of these islands, and as the natives informed them it was drifted by the ocean, it was probably the growth of some of the northern parts of America. They now bade adieu to the Sandwich Islands, and made the best of their way for Nootka. The Discovery arrived the 20th of May. Mr. Paget had arrived with the Chatham on the 15th of April, and departed thence the 18th of May, according to his instructions, to proceed in the survey of the coast. Mr. Puget's journal, a letter, and other papers, were left at Nootka for Captain Vancouver, who also received letter* there from the Viceroy of New Spain, containing the most flattering assurances of every support and assistance that kingdom was capable of affording. The houses of the natives in the neighbourhood were found to be of a different construction from any they had before seen ; they were erected on a platform, and raised and supported near thirty feet from the ground by perpendicular spars of a very large size ; the whole, occupy- ing a space of about thirty-five yards by fifteen, was covered in by a roof of boards lying nearly horizontal, and parellel to the platform ; it seemed to be divided into three different houses, or rather apartments, each ha- ving a separate access, formed by a long tree in an inclined position from the platform to the ground, with notches cut in it by way of steps, about a foot and a half asunder. Up one of these ladders Mr. Johnstone, with one of his party only, was suffered to ascend, and by removing a broad board, placed as a kind of door on the platform where the ladder rested, they entered on a small area before the door of the house or apartment to which the ladder belonged. Here they found four of the natives posted, each bearing a rude weapon made of iron, not unlike a dagger. They only permitted Mr. Johnstone to look about him, and seemed much averse to his entering the house, which he prudently did not insist upon ; but, so far as he was able to observe within doors, their internal arrangements differed little or nothing from the domestic economy of the Indians already seen on the shores of North- West America. The number of inhabitants seen at this curious place did not exceed a dozen or fourteen, but among them were neither women nor children. Mr. Johnstone discovered from this that their landing had excited no small degree of alarm, which greatly subsided on their departure. In the course of continuing the examination of the coast, they met with some Indians of very different behaviour from those they had hitherto seen. As they advanced, they were joined by a party of fifteen natives in two canoes. A smoke had before been observed among the trees on the eastern shore, but they saw no appearance of any habitations. These .people approached without much hesitation, and in their countenances was expressed a degree of savage ferocity, infinitely surpassing anything of the sort they had before observed in the various tribes that had fallen under their notice. Many of those before seen had their faces painted in various modes ; but these had contrived so to dispose of the red, white, and black, as to render the natural ugliness of their countenances more horribly hideous. This frightful appearance did not seem to be a new fashion, but to have been long adopted by their naturally ferocious dis- positions, and was correspondent to the stern and savage deportment they G. VANCOUVER. 339 took so much pains to exhibit. The captain offered them such presents as he had been accustomed to make on similar occasions, but they wero rejected by some with disdain, while the few who deigned to accept any- thing received them with a stern and cool indifference. Among the party was a woman, who was additionally disfigured by extraordinary lip orna- ments ; this did not a little augment her froward, shrewdish aspect. He offered her a looking-glass, with some trinkets, but at the sight of the most savage fellow of the party, she contemptuously rejected them. This Indian then arranged his spears, about six or eight in number, and placed them with their points just over the bow of the canoe, near where he sat ; he also laid near him his bow with some arrows, then put on his war- garment, and drew his dagger. Some in the other canoe made similar preparations, either to menace an attack, or, what seemed more likely, to convince them they were upon their guard against any violence they might be inclined to offer them. A party of twenty-five natives, conducted by two chiefs, visited the at anchor off one part of the coast, and were very sociable. One of the chiefs, who had a very open, cheerful countenance, was the finest figure and the stoutest Indian Captain Vancouver had seen on the coast. The greatest treat which could be given them was bread and molasses, which they admired very much ; but were also very anxious to recommend their whale oil as even a still greater delicacy than molasses. In the afternoon, as these new friends were visiting the Chatham, they were suddenly surprised by the arrival of a large canoe full of men, singing a song and keeping time by the regularity of their paddling. Their course, directed toward the Discovery, seemed not to correspond with the wishes of the former party, who immediately equipped themselves in their war-garments, and their spears, which had lain in the bottom of their canoes, were now got to hand, and couched in an inclined position, with their points toward the new comers. Thus prepared, they advanced slowly to meet them, making most violent and passionate speeches, which were answered in a similar tone of voice by some persons who stood up in the large canoe. They continued to paddle with much regularity toward each other ; yet those who had now entered the harbour did not appear to be so hostilely inclined as those who had already occupied the port ; as the lances of the former, though in readiness for action, were not disposed in a way so menacing. Oa a nearer approach, they rested on their pad- dles, and entered into a parley ; and we could then observe, that all those who stood up in the large canoe were armed with pistols or blunderbusses, very bright and in good order. Their conversation seeming to have ended in a pacific way, the opposing party returned with their new comers, who, on passing by the Chatham, laid down their arms ; but just as they came alongside the Discovery, one of the chiefs who had been on board drew With much haste, from within the breast of his wai-garment, a large iron dagger, and appeared to be extremely irritated by something that had been said by those in the large canoe, who again, with great coolness, took up their pistols and blunderbusses ; but on an explanation appearing to be made, their arms were again returned to their proper places ; their pistols and ammunition were carefully wrapped up, and a perfect recon- ciliation seemed to have taken place on both sides. The survey was continued sedulously till the 5th of October, when both vessels returned to Nootka. The usual ceremonies of salutes and other formalities having passed, accompanied by Mr. Puget, Vancouver waited on Seignior Saavadra, the commandant of the port ; who said that 840 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. he had not received any intelligence, either fram Europe or from New Spain, since their departure from hence in the spring ; and that neither the Daedalus nor any other ship with stores had been there. Having quitted Nootka, nothing of importance occurred till their arri- val, on the 19lh, in Port St. Francisco, They were soon hailed from Ihe shore, upon which a boat was despatched thither, and immediately returned with their civil and attentive friend, Seignior Sal ; who, in ad- dition to the offers of his services and hospitality, gratified them by com- municating the interesting intelligence of the state of Europe, up to so late a date as the preceding February. After supper he retired to the shore, and the next morning the captain received from him two letters ; the one requesting, in an official form, that he would acquaint him in writing of his arrival in Port St. Francisco, of the supplies he should want, and of the time he intended to remain in that port ; the other stating that, under the superior orders by which alone his conduct could be governed, he was obliged to make known, that no individual could be permitted to corae on shore, but for the purposes of procuring wood and water, excepting the captain and one officer, or midshipman, who might pass to the presidio, where they should be received and attended as on their former visit. These restrictions were of a nature so unexpected, ungracious, and degrading, that they could not but consider them as little short of a dis- mission from St. Francisco. In proceeding toward Monterey, they made so little progress, that they were still at no great distance from St. Francisco next moning, the 25th, when a vessel was descried to the north-north-west ; and, on standing toward her, she proved to be the Daedalus. On the 1st of No- vember they reached Monterey with the Da3dalus. Having anchored before another Spanish establishment, Vancouver sent Lieutenant Swaine to inform the commanding officer at the presidio of their arrival. The next morning, accompanied by Lieutanants Puget and Hanson, Vancouver paid his respects on shore to Seignior Don Phelipe Goycochea, the commandant of the establishment of Santa Barbara, and heutenant in the Spanish infant'-y. The pleasing society of their good friends at the mission and presidio was augmented by the arrival of Friar Vincente Santa Maria, one of the reverend fathers of the mission of Buena Ventura, situated about seven leagues from hence, on the sea-coast to the south- eastward. At eight in the evening they anchored in fifteen fathoms water, about a league to the westward of Buena Ventura. Their reve- rend friend expressed great satisfaction at the mode of his return to the mission ; and said, that his voyage hither would probably lay the founda- tion for removing the absurd and deep-rooted prejudice that had ever exist- ed among the several tribes of Indians in his neighbourhood, who, from their earliest infancy, had invariably regarded all strangers as their enemies. On their entering the mission, they were received by Father Francisco Dume, and entertained in a manner that proved the great respectabdity of the Franciscan order. The morning, which was most delightfully pleasant, was employed in viewing the buildings of the mission, the arrangement of the gardens and cultivated land in its immediate vicinage. These all appeared to be in a very supfrior style to any of the new settlements they had yet seen, and would have tempted a more minute inquiry, had not an anxious desire for pro- ceeding onward prohibited the delay it would necessarily have occasioned. O. VANCOUVER. 341 On the 27ih reached St. Diego, and despatched Lieutenant Swaine to the presidio, in order to inform the commanding officer of their arrival, and to inquire if any despatches for them had been intrusted to his care, or if he knew of any that had passed this station on their way to Mon- terey. A continuation of southerly winds caused them to be detained, contrary to expectation, until Monday, the 9th, when they quitted the Port of St. Diego. The fourth examination of the coast was a matter anxiously wished by Captain Vancouver ; but it would have exceeded the strict letter of his instructions, and might possibly have excited additional jealousy in the breast of the Spanish acting governor. Nothing of consequence occurred till their arrival, on the 8th of Janu- ary, 1794, at Owyhee, off the Bay of Whyealea, where their return was proclaimed by shouts of joy, and they were visited by Tamaahmaah, rejoiced to meet his friends at this his favourite part of the island ; bat it being found more proper to proceed to Karakakooa, the king, notwithstand- ing a strict taboo, consented to accompany Captain Vancouver in the ship. Among the visiters on board Tahowmanam, the king's wife, did not ap- pear, a separation having taken place in consequence of a supposed in- timacy between her and Tianna. Their course was now directed round the east point of the island, along its south-east side ; they made tolerable good progress ; and as they passed the district of Opoona, on the 11th, the weather being very clear and pleasant, they had a most excellent view of Mowna Roa's snowy summit and the range of the lower hills that extend toward the east end of Owyhee. From the tops of these several columns of smoke were seen to ascend, which Tamaahmaah said were occasioned by the subterraneous fires that frequently broke out in violent eruptions, causing among the natives such a multiplicity of superstitious notions, as to give rise to a religious order of persons, who perform volcanic rites. As they worked into the Bay of Karakakooa, many of the inhabitants were assembled on the shores, who announced their congratulations by shouts of joy ; many of their former friends, particularly of the fair sex, lost no time in testifying the sincerity of the public sentiment in their favour. Young and Davis they had likewise the pleasure of finding in the exer- cise of those judicious principles they had so wisely adopted, and which, by their example and advice, had so uniformly been carried into effect. On Thursday, the 30th, they were favoured with the company of Ter- ree-my-tee, Crymamahoo, Tianna, and some other chiefs, from the dis- tant parts of the island. Their arrival had been in consequence of a summons from the king, who had called the grand council of the island, on the subject of its cession to the crown of Great Britain, which was unanimously desired. These chiefs brought intelligence, that a quantity of timber, which had been sent for at the captain's request, was on its way hither ; it had been cut down under the direction of an Englishman, named Boyd, formerly mate of the sloop Washington, but who had re- linquished that way of life, and had entered into the service of Tamaah- maah. He appeared in the character of a shipwright, and had under- taken to build, with these materials, a vessel for the king, after the European fashion ; but both himself and his comrades, Young and Da- vis, were fearful of encountering too many difRculties ; especially as they were all much at a loss in the first outset, that of laying down the keel. This afforded Vancouver an opportunity of conferring on Tamaahmaah a favour that he valued far beyond every other obligation, by permitting 29* 343 VOtAGES ROITN'D THE WORLD. his carpenters to begin the vessel ; from whose example, and the assis- tance of these three engineers, he was in hopes that his people would hereafter be able to build boats and small vessels for themselves. On Saturday, the 1st of February, they laid down the keel, and began to prepare the frame-work of his Owyhean majesty's first man-of-war. The length of its keel was thirty-six feet, the extreme breadth of the vessel nine feet and a quarter, and the depth of her hold about five feet ; her name was to be The Britannia, and was intended as a protection to the royal person of Tamaahmaah ; and few circumstances in his life ever afforded him more satisfaction. Some solemn religious rites being now to take place, Captain Vancou- ver had frequently expressed to Tamaahmaah a desire of being present on some of these occasions ; and he now informed him he had obtained the consent of the priests, provided he would, during the continuance of the interdiction, attend to all the restrictions which their religion demand- ed. The restraints imposed consisted chiefly in four particulars : first, a total seclusion from the company of women ; secondly, partaking of no food but such as was previously consecrated ; thirdly, being confined to the land, and not being afloat or wet with sea-water ; and, fourthly, not receiving, or even touching, the most trivial article from any one who had not attended the ceremonies at the morai. These restrictions were con- sidered necessary to be observed by the whole of the parly resident on shore ; and about sunset they attended the summons of the king at the morai, who was there officiating as high priest, attended by some of the principal residents of their religious orders, chanting an invocation to the setting sun. Their prayers seemed to have some regularity and form, and they did not omit to pray for the welfare of his Britannic majesty, and their safe and happy return to their native country. A certain degree of order was perceptible throughout these ceremonies, accompanied by many superstitious and mysterious formalities ; among which a very prin- cipal one was performed about the dawn of day. At this time the most profound silence was required of every creature within hearing of this sa- cred place. The king then repeated a prayer in a low tone of voice with the greatest solemnity, and in the middle of it took up a live pig tied by the legs, and with one efibrt dashed it to death against the ground ; an operation which must be performed without the slightest interruption or cry from the victim, or without the prevailing silence being broken by any noise whatsoever, though of the most trivial kind. This part of the ser- vice is supposed to announce their being on terms of friendship with the gods, on which the farther ceremonies were carried into execution. A number of hogs, plantains, and cocoa nuts, were then consecrated for the principal chiefs and priests ; the more common productions, such as fish, turtle, fowls, dogs, and the several esculent roots that compose their food during the intervals between these more sacred taboos, were not now served up, but for the first time since their arrival they fared sumptu- ously on those more deUcious articles. The intermediate day, the 13th, and the second night, were passed in prayer, during which they found no difficulty in complying with the prescribed regulations, and soon after the sun rose, the 14th, they were absolved from any farther attention to their sacred injunctions. The cession of Owyhee to his Britannic majesty became now an object of serious concern. Some little delay and difficulty, however, arose from the absence of two chiefs, Commanow, who from local circumstances could not quit his government, and Tamaahmootoo, chief of Koarra, tlie O. VAXCOUVEIl. 343 person w"ho had captured the Fair American schooner. Their first salu- tation being over, he caught the earUest opportunity to offer an apology for the offence that had so justly kept them strangers to each other. He complained of having been treated very ill by the crews of some vessels that had visited Toeaigh Bay, and particularly of his having been beaten by Mr. Metcalf, commanding the Eleonora, at the time w^hen his son, who afterward had the command of the Fair American, was on board the former vessel. The glass went freely round after dinner ; and as this ceremony was completely within the reach of Tamaahmootoo's imitation, he was anxious to excel in this accompUshment, by drinking with less reserve than any one at table. Vancouver thought it proper to remind him that, as he was not in the habit of drinking spirituous liquors like Tamaahmaah and the other chiefs present, it was necessary he should be upon his guard, lest the wine and grog should disagree with him ; but as his spirits became exhilarated he became less attentive to these admonitions, until the opera- tion of the liquors obliged him to retire. In this state it is not possible to imagine a countenance more expressive of indignation or of savage barbarity and resentment ; his eyes were fixed on the captain as he was carried out of the marquee, while his tongue, no longer confined within his lips, indistinctly uttered attoou-anni, signifying that he had poisoned him, and some present, even of their old acquaintance, seemed to be a little concerned for his safety. The king, however, laughed at their ap- prehension, and explained to them the cause of Tamaahmootoo's indisposi- tion, which, by the assistance of a little warm water, was almost instantly recovered, and he rejoined their party, to the great entertainment and diversion of his countrymen, who were still very pleasantly regaling them- selves, and in the perfect enjoyment of each other's society. At one of their evening amusements the captain was very well enter- tained. This was a performance by a single young woman of the name of Puckoo, whose person and manners were both very agreeable. Her dress, notwithstanding the heat of the weather, consisted of an immense •quantity of thin cloth, which was wound round her waist, and extended as low as her knees. This was plaited in such a manner as to give a pretty effect to the variegated pattern of the cloth ; and was otherwise disposed with great taste. Her head and neck were decorated with wreaths of black, red, and yellow feathers ; but, excepting these, she wore no dress from the waist upward. Her ancles, and nearly half-way up her legs, were decorated with several folds of cloth, widening upward, so that the upper parts extended from the leg at least four inches all round ; this was encompassed by a piece of net-work, wrought very close, from the meshes of which were hung the small teeth of dogs, giving this part of her dress the appearance of an ornamental funnel. On her wrists she wore brace- lets made of the tusks from the largest hogs. These were highly polished and fixed close together in a ring, the concave sides of the tusks being outward ; and their ends reduced to an uniform length, curving naturally each way from the centre, were by no means destitute of ornamental effect. Thus equipped, her appearance on the stage, before she uttered a single word, excited considerable applause from the numerous spectators, who observed the greatest good order and decorum. In her performance, which was in the open air, she was accompanied by two men, who were seated on the ground in the character of musicians. Their instruments were both alike, and were made of the outsides or shells of large gourds, open at the top ; the lower ends ground perfectly flat, and as thin as pos 344 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. sible, without endangering their splitting. These were atruck an th« ground, covered with a small quantity of dried grass, and in the interval between each stroke tjiey beat with the hands and fingers on the sides of these instruments, to accompany their vocal exertions, which, with the various motions of their hands and body, and the vivacity of their coun- tenances, plainly demonstrated the interest they had, not only in excelling in their own parts, but also in the applause which the lady acquired by her performance, advancing or retreating from the musicians a few short steps in various directions, as the nature of the subject and the numerous gestures and motions of her person demanded. Her speech, or poem, was first began in a slow and somewhat solemn manner, and gradually became energetic, probably as the subject matter became interesting ; until at length, like a true actress, the liveliness of her imagination pro- duced a vociferous oration, accompanied by violent emotions. These were received with shouts of great applause ; and although they were not sufficiently acquainted with the language to comprehend the subject, yet they could not help being pleased in a high degree with the performance. On the 25th of February Tamaahmaah, King of Owyhee, in council with the principal chiefs of the island, assembled on board his Britannic majesty's sloop Discovery, in Karakakooa Bay, and in the presence of George Vancouver, commander of the said sloop. Lieutenant Peter Puget, commander of his said majesty's armed tender the Chatham, and the other officers of the Discovery, after due consideration, unanimously ceded the Island of Owyhee to his Britannic majesty, and acknowledged themselves to be subjects of Great Britain. As their departure was now to take place with the first breeze from the land, Tamaahmaah and his queen, unwiMing to take leave until the very last moment, remained on board until near midnight, when they departed, with hearts too full to express the sensations which the moment of separa- tion produced in each ; with them their honest and j,udicious counsellors, Young and Davis, returned to the shore. The good sense, moderation, and propriety of conduct in these men, daily increased their own respecta- bility, and augmented the esteem and regard not only of the king and all, his friends, but even of those who were professedly adverse to the exist- ing government, and who consequently were at first inimical to their interest. As it was a great uncertainty whether the ships should or should not return again to these islands, the captain had given these two worthy characters their choice of taking their passage to their native country, or of remaining on the island in the same situation which they had so long filled with credit to themselves, and with so much satisfaction to the king and the rest of the principal people. After mature considera- tion, they preferred their present way of life, and were desirous of con- tinuing at Owyhee ; observing, that, being destitute of resources, on their return home they must be again exposed to the vicissitudes of a life of hard labour, for the purpose of merely acquiring a precarious supply of the most common necessaries of life, objects which, for some years past, had not occasioned them the least concern. Thus concluded their transactions at Owyhee, to which they bade adieu about three in the morning of the 3d of March. They left here, however, a banditti of renegadoes, that had quitted different trading ves- sels in consequence of disputes with their respective commanders, who had resorted to this island since the preceding year, under American or Portuguese colours. Among them was one Portuguese, one Chinese, and one Genoese, but all the rest appeared to be the subjects of Great a. VANCOUVER. 345 Britain, as spemed also the major part of ihe crew of the brig Washing- ton, although they called themselves Americans. With Kavaheeroo also resided a person by the name of Howell, who had come to Owyhee in the capacity of a clerk on board the Washington ; he appeared to possess a good understanding, with the advantages of an university education, and had been once a clergyman in England, but had now secluded him- self from European society, so that, with Young, Davis, and Boyd, there were now eleven white men on the island ; but, excepting from these latter, their Ovvyhean friends will have little reason to rejoice in any ad- vantages they will receive from their new civilized companions. After visiting some other parts of the Sandwich Islands, the ships finally bade them adieu on the 15lh of March, from which period, till the end of August, the whole time was occupied in a very extensive and minute survey of the coast of North- West America. Suffice It to say, that one great object of the voyage was, namely, to ascertain the existence of a north-west passage, or any water communication navigable for shipping. The North Pacific and the exterior of the American continent, within these limits, were completely examined, and it was proved that no such communication did exist, notwithstanding the assertions of Fuca, Fonte, and others, on that subject. On the 2d of September the Dicovery an- chored in Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, where were three of his Catho- lic majesty's armed vessels, and some English and American traders. At Monterey they arrived on the 2d of November. Having on the 2d of December quitted it, and proceeded southward, they passed the three Marias Islands, and afterward the rich, but uninhabited, Island of Cocos. Its produce is luxurious and abundant, as are also fowl and fish. They afterward successively passed the Gallipagos Islands, Masafuero, and Juan Fernandez. On the 24th of March they gained a distant view of the lofty coast of Chili to the westward, in latitude 32 degrees 53 minutes, and at a sup- posed distance of forty leagues, the immense mountains of the Andes. Their destination was, however, the Bay of Valparaiso, which they reached next day. St. Jago, the capital of Chili, is stated to have been founded on the 12th of February, 1541. This city is the residence of the president, who is captain-general of the whole kingdom, and governor and presiding judge of the audience-chamber or court of justice. It is said to contain 30,500 inhabitants. The subordinate cities in this great kingdom are Coquimbo, Chilian, Conception, and Valdivia ; and the principal towns are Valparaiso, Capiapo, Vallenar, St. Francisco de Boria, St. Raphael de la Rosa, La Ligua, Quillota, Los Andes, Melipilla, St. Joseph, An- concagua, St. Ferdinand, Curico, Talca, Linares, Nueva, Bilboa, Cau- geres, and others of less importance. The kingdom of Chili is stated to extend, in a northern and southern direction, from the uninhabited parts of Atacama, which divides it from the vice-royalty of Peru, to the Straits of Magellan; and, in a western and eastern direction, from the ocean to the foot of the Cordilleras, which divides it from the vice-royalty of Buenos Ayres. There is about a million of specie coined at St. Jago every year, which is the fund from whence the salaries of the state offi- cers, the military establishment, and other incidental expenses of the government are defrayed. The army consists of a battalion of infantry in Conception, two squadrons of horse, one company of dragoons, and two of artillery. The cavalry are all well-mounted, and extremely expert horsemen ; and were they as skilful in the use of fire-arms as they are ia 346 troYAOES notrJifi the World. the management of the sword and the lance, they would not be inferior to any troops of this description in Europe. The exterior commerce of the kingdom is principally carried on from the seaports of Conception, Coquimbo, and Valparaiso ; but the latter has the greatest share of trade, arising from its central situation and its vicinity to the capital. The measured distance between St. Jawo and Buenos Ayres they could not learn, but understood that the post travels from thence to the capital of Chili in twenty days ; and that the country, from Buenos Ayres until it reaches the foot of the Cordilleras, which run in a northern and southern direction, and pass to the eastward of St. Jago, is one entire desert, without trees or any other sort of vegetation, and that it is so completely a level plain, that even a hillock does not ap-* pear on its. surface. The nearest silver mine to St. Jago is at the dis- tance of about seven leagues, and the nearest gold mine is to the north- east df the city, at the distance of about thirty leagues. The houses in Valparaiso, on account of the earthquakes which fre- quently happen in South America, like those in St. Jago, consist of the ground-floor only ; the walls are built with mud, and plastered over with a preparation of Ume ; they aire convenient, well adapted to the climate, and are in general handsomely furnished. In the town and in the village of Almandrel there are six churches, within the diocess of the archbishop of St. Jago, but under the direction of a vicar, who resides at Valparaiso, and is amenable for his conduct to the archbishop. The town and its neighbourhood are under the jurisdiction of the governor, who receives his appointment, with a salary of 4000 dollars per annum, from the King of Spain ; but he is nevertheless under the immediate orders and control of the captain-general. All civil and military causes are heard at St. Jago. Capital o^ences are seldom committed ; a man was found guilty on a charge of felony, and hanged about three years before their arrival, a punishment that was seldom known to he inflicted. Nothing particular happened in the voyage round Cape Horn, and thence to St. Helena, wbere the Discovery arrived on the 2d of July, the Chatham having got thither before her. Here, in consequence of the hostilities with Holland, Captain Vancouver took a Dutch East Indiaman,- the Macassar. On the 12th of September made the western coast of Ireland ; when, having seen the Discovery safely moored in the Shannon, he proceeded to London, resigning the command of the ship to Lieutenant Baker, and taking with him such books, papers, and charts, as were necessary to lay before the lords of the admiralty, relative to the ser- vices performed. In the course of this long voyage of four years eight months and twenty-nine days, the Discovery lost by disease, out of one hundred men, only one, and five by accidents ; and in the Chatham not one died from disease or otherwise. CAPTAIN ETIENNE MARCHAND.— 1790-92. Captain Marchand, hearing of the success of some voyages to the north-west coast of America for furs, by English adventurers, proposed to tjie commercial house of Baux, in Marseilles, a similar expedition ; which being agreed to, an effective ship, the Solide, of 300 tons, ten guns, and fifty officers and seamen, was placed under his command, and he sailed from Marseilles the 14th of December, 1790." January 15th, anchored for three days in Port Praya, St. Jago, after which nothing of EtiENNE JIARCHANft. 347 any importance occurred till they saw Staten Land from the mast-head the Ist of April, and by the 20th had sailed quite round Terra del Fuego into the great South Sea, when they encountered the first heavy storm so common in these regions. Want of water compelled him to shape a course for the group of islands called Marquesas, discovered by Mendana in 1595, and since visited by Cook. June 12th, discovered them, the vicinity of land ha- ving been indicated for some days before by flights of terns, sea-swallows, and several other birds, which are known not to proceed far from the shore. Steering for the Bay of Madre de Dios, they were met by many natives in canoes and swimming, blowing conchs, singing, and beating time on the sides of the canoes, at the same time pointing out where water was to be procured. Several women at the same time dis- played their charms, offering them by no unequivocal signs to the sea- men. Before the Solide reached the bay, a flotilla of canoes surrounded her, many having come even from the Island of Dominica. One of their old men, after pronouncing a harangue, tied a piece of white cloth in the rigging, understood to be the signal of peace, and crying out, Tayo ! Tayo ! meaning friend. Toys were distributed freely among them, and looking-glasses excited much admiration and astonishment. The crowd soon mcreased so much, that it was no longer possible to work the ship • but on being requested to retire, they complied in a very orderly manneii, each seeming to seek his own island, though at considerable distances. Early the next morning the ship was surrounded by above 300 natives, all eager to go on board ; but in the meantime stripping oflF, with their fingers alone, pieces of iron and copper, which it would have required instruments and time for an European to remove. A gun was fired over their heads ; but instead of intimidating, it only served to increase their audacity ; a shot, which struck the rocks, had for a moment some little effect, till, recovering their alarm, several threw sticks on board, and struck their lances against the sides of the ship ; one snatched a musket from one of the men protecting the boats, and others attempted to remove the leaden pump from the stern ; a man of less humanity than Marchand would probably have answered these hostile demonstrations as hostilely ; but only firing two muskets sufficiently close for them to hear the balls whiz over their heads, order was in some degree restored. Women and young girls in hundreds flocked on board, anxious to dispose of their per- sons for nails, beads, and other trinkets and implements ; and lest their overtures should not be sufficiently understood, the men were eager to become their interpreters. A blunderbuss of one of the watering party going off, accidentally wounded a native by breaking a bone of the arm ; this excited some fear among them, but no revenge ; the surgeon, Rob- let, proceeding on shore to dress it, found the arm very skilfully managed, so as to display no small share of surgical knowledge ; presents and caresses were given to prevent any unfavourable impression from this unfortunate occurrence. In an excursion into the woods the same day, by the captain, one of the natives snatched his musket and ran off ; but, in attempting to pursue him, was immediately recalled by the danger of his servant, whom he found seized by half a dozen islanders, who soon let go their hold, though not without carrying away his hat and a box he had under his arm. By the interference of a chief, however, the musket was restored the next day. Several fruits and vegetable .refreshments were procured, with abundance of water, but scarcely a hog or fowl ; for, though they did not 348 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. teem scarce, the owners would not part with them. Marchand, there* fore, set off in the boats for some other bays in the neighbourhood, and at the second in his way procured twelve fine hogs, the natives civilly carrying the individuals of the party on shore and on board again, on account of a dangerous landing place. At another bay they were not so successful in their pursuit, though received equally friendly ; several petty thefts were committed, but on the whole the behaviour of the natives was friendly in a marked degree. Santa Christina, the only island of the group hitherto visited, is about seven leagues in circumference, the land high and rocky, the latter seenv- • ing of a volcanic nature, many portions of it barren, and, taken on the whole, is infinitely less fruitful than either of the Society Islands ; so that the people have by no means the superfluities of the Olaheiteans. Bread fruit and cocoa nuts are here much more scarce. The sugar-cane is, however, very fine 5 also a large species of chestnut. The islanders well remembered the name of Captain Cook, who touched here ; but not a single European article of any description was now observed among them, and to almost all of them they seemed utter strangers. Rats are excessively numerous, and destroy much of the food of the islanders ; the hogs arc small, but sweet and well-tasted ; a variety of birds abound in the woods, and enliven them with their songs ; rock-fish are in plenty in the bay ; and the shark is little regarded by the islanders, who swim about seemingly regardless of its fierce and ravenous attacks. The people are confessedly the finest race in the South Sea for beauty of person, the whole being very tall, well-formed, inclining to corpulency without being so, their chests and shoulders broad, their limbs muscular, and their activity on land or in water equally remarkable ; the common height is about five feet ten inches, but great numbers exceed six feet. Their colour is a bright brown, their hair of several shades, as flaxen, auburn, black, either long or curling. The countenance is open and frank, the nose being either flat or acquiline, the eyes large and black, and the teeth regular. They are in general naked, except a piece of cloth, made of the bark of a tree, tied round the loins for the sake of modesty ; but tattooing is so general, and so well and neatly executed, that this might almost be fancied a species of clothing of itself. The women are equally remarkable for beauty of person ; their clothing is not much more, but the tattooing considerably less than in the other sex ; in fact, clothing is an encumbrance, as much of their time is spent in the water. The licentiousness of the greater part is, however, shameless and disgust- ing ; even children of eight years old were publicly prostituted. Their weapons are lances, a sort of sabre, pikes or javehns, and clubs ; their canoes are rude and ill formed, bearing no comparison to the ele- gance of those of Otahcite. The houses are built on stone platforms rai.sed from the ground, as if they were exposed to inundations from the sea ; and likewise they use very curious stilts, apparently for the same reason, on which they stalk about with great expedition. The scoop-net and sweep-net constitute their fishing implements ; their hatchet is of a hard species of stone ; their household utensils consist of calabashes and various others, formed of wood ; and the great article of cloth is made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree. June 20ih, at midnight, quilted the anchorage of Santa Christina, and next morning discovered high land in the north-west quarter, adjoining which were several isles, upon which the officers and seamen conferred the name of Isle Marchand. Some sandy bays were perceived, with a feTlENNE MARCHANi). 349 ffew rivulets of fine water running into them : a fev7 natives came on board, some without hesitation, others with the strongest symptoms of terror ; they spoke the same language, were of the same colour, and in other respects differed little or nothing from those of Santa Christina, this being merely an extension of the Marquesas group ; but they seem- ed utterly unacquainted with their visiters, or with European commodi- ties ; for among them all they preferred glass bottles to everything else. Appearances of other islands were distinguished, one of which, to wind* ward, he could not reach, but called it Baux's Island, after the owners of his ship ; two others, not much elevated above the surface of the water, were named the Two Brothers ; while two more received the appella- tions of Masse's and Chanal's Islands, after the first and second officers of the Solide. The cluster had given to it the general name of the Re- volution Islands. Marchand's Isle is about ten or eleven leagues in cir- cumference, Baux's about fifteen ; the former in 9 degrees 21 minutes south latitude, 142 degrees 19 minutes west longitude ; the latter in 8 degrees 48 minutes south latitude, 142 degrees 31 minutes west longitude. June 25th, lost sight of these islands, steering for the north-west coast of America. Indications of land, such as birds, sea-weed, drift-wood not long in the water, and obscurities in the horizon, which, however, they had not time to examine, were perceived occasionally during the run to the American coast, which was seen on the evening of the 7th of August, near to Cape Engana, or Edgcombe. They anchored at Pitt's Island, in Norfolk Sound, called by the natives Tchinkatanay, and next morning about 140 men, women, and children, came round the ship singing, which, it seems, is their usual practice on first becoming acquainted with strangers, bringing some furs, which they seemed very well to know the value of by the price demanded. In this traffic they have already acquired great skill and finesse, showing off their articles to the best advantage, and examining and detecting the faults of those given to them in return with great minuteness. Woollen clothes were in the greatest request, many of the natives being entirely clothed with them, of English manufacture : they obstinately adhered to what they considered the value of their skins, and even when the ship was preparing to depart would not reduce the price ; one hundred otter-skins prime, two hundred and fifty cub otter- skins, thirty-six whole bear-skins, fifteen half skins, thirty-seven seal- skins, sixty bearer and racoon-skins, a bag of squirrel-skins, a carpet of mountain rat-skins, and a quantity of otter-skins cut into slips and worn, constituted their purchase here ; the latitude of the cove where the ship lay was 57 degrees 4 minutes north, and longitude 137 degrees 59 minutes west. Tchinkatanay Bay is well protected by high mountains on all sides, their summits covered with snow which appears never to melt, and their brows with wood which never comes under the axe. The sea-otter, on which skin the Chinese place so much value, is about two feet ten inches in length, the tail about twelve or thirteen inches ; the fur is ex- tremely beautiful, and for a prime skin from sixty to ninety dollars are sometimes given at Canton. Its beauty varies in some measure with the season ; those killed in March, April, and May, being esteemed the best ; black is the general colour, but there are many of a brownish hue ; the weight of the body, which, though insipid, is eaten by the natives, is from seventy to eighty pounds. The natives of this bay were rather short in stature, their noses snubbed and sharp, their eyes small and sunk in the head, their cheek-bones prominent, their faces round, their colour teddish or of a light brown, but dirt and the admixture of various pig- 30 350 VdlrAdsis iiotjfjt) tiIe W6itti). ments render it difficult to determine precisely what their natural huo is. Their favourite weapon is a metal dagger, fifteen or sixteen inches long, in which they take no little pride, keeping it always in the highest polish. They take two meals a day, about noon and in the evening, before which periods they regularly left the ship to be on shore in good time. They treat the women with attention, not giving them the laborious work which is imposed by some other tribes on the coast of North-West America ; and the men likewise seem to feel pleasure in nursing their offspring, which is not often the case among savages. The women are reserved and modest ; and the men, as may be supposed from this circumstance) rather jealous, forming a remarkable contrast to the people of the South Sea Islands, and showing the superiority in moral feeling of the people of a cold or temperate to those of a tropical climate, both being equally savages, and, of course, ignorant of the decencies of civilized life. Their language is excessively harsh and uncouth, requiring at once a strong nasal aspiration and a guttural effort ; it seems, however, from what could be collected, that it is copious and varied, from the nicety with which the most minute parts of an animal, or other trivial things, were called and described. Marchand quitted this place the 21st of August for Queen Charlotte's Islands, and distinguished Cloak Bay, where he anchored ; tvpt found few skins, a vessel having been there recently, which had carried them all off. A chief invited them to visit his habitation, forming a parallelogram, iroin. forty-five to fifty feet in front by thirty-five in depth. Six, eight, or ten trees, cut and planted in each front, form the enclosure of a habitation, and are fastened to each other by planks ten inches in width ; the partitions, six or seven feet high, are surmounted by a roof a little sloped ; in the middle of the roof is made a large square opening, affording at once entrance to the light and an exit to the smoke ; there are also sometimes a few small openings in the sides. These houses have two stories, though only one visible, the lower one being in fact under ground^ the descent to which is by half a dozen of steps, and here they reside during the winter. To one of the boats despatched to trade came a chief and several of his tribe, who, though possessed of several skins, seemed disinchned to part with them, except at a high price, repeating frequently the name of Eng' lishmen, as if they would give more than their present visiters. The arms supplied by them were in general so bad, that one discharge with a ball or shot v/ould probably have burst them. At length, when the boats seemed prepared to depart, the natives, who had hitherto held out for fire-arms, or blankets and woollen clothing, were wilUng to accept less valuable articles, such as boilers, pewter basins, pots, kettles, and a variety of other things of a similar nature. While they were quitting the place, a brig, about 200 tons burthenj with a tender along with her, hove in sight ; but showing no colours anri Marchand not wishing to speak with any stranger, no intercourse took place between them ; but, from the accounts of the natives, they turned out to be English. Fish, particularly of the shell kind, are numerous here ; water also is plentiful, and of excellent quahty ; seals sport about in the bay ; whales appear off its mouth ; birds are very numerous ; but the only quadruped observed was the dog. The natives are very fond of gambling, by means of thirty small sticks variously disposed ; their women were modest, any intercourse that took place with the seamen being entirely from interested motives, and evidently not from constitu- tional incitements. Another boat was now despatched down to Rennell's iJTlfiMNE Marchand. 351 Strait, to try for furs there, their success hitherto being much inferior to their expectations ; a good harbour was called after the second officer, Chanal's Harbour ; but, after a fatiguing excursion for several days, very few skins could be procured. The Solfde's course was now directed to Berkeley's Sound, in latitude 49 degrees, most other spots seeming to have been already stripped of their commodities by English rivals. September 4th, got sight of the land in this neighbourhood, and the next evening anchored ; on the morning of the 7th they sa\V five canoes approaching them, with six or seven men in each, who, having no skins themselves, directed the ship to proceed in a direction they pointed out, where several were to be procured. These people were fairer than those on that part of the coast they had left ; and their canoes, besides being larger, were constructed in a very superior manner. Standing in to Berkeley's Sound the day afterward, Marchand perceived a three-masted Vessel coming Out, when, finding himself anticipated here as well as to the northward, and the stranger also standing to the southward, whither he intended to go, he thought farther competition would not turn out successful, and that the only chance of making the voyage profitable was to proceed at once to China, and sell his skins before there was any com- petition in the market. The officers agreeing in the propriety of this resolution, they set sail for the Sandwich Islands, in order to take in refreshments for the remainder of the voyage. October 4th, made Owyhee, the chief of the group. Dreading the character for enterprise and courage acquired by these islanders, Mar- chand thought it the most expeditious and safest plan to purchase his refreshments under sail, with which he was liberally supplied for iron and other wares ; but among the cargoes of hogs brought off' were intermixed many women, whom, however, the Solide's crew very wisely declined to admit on board. The famous mountain Mowna Roa, in Owyhee, was per- ceived by the Solide about forty-six leagues distant from the island and more than fifty from its summit, and is computed to be from 15,600 to ]6,02Q feet high, being the highest mountain on the globe, except Himmaleh and CimboraKO. The mountain of Mowee is nearly half this height ; Atooi is also much elevated, being distinguished thirty leagues off. Ori the 7th quitted the Sandwich Islands for the run across the Pacific Ocean ; and on the 3d of November made the Island of Tinian, between which and Saypan he intended to pass to clear the archipelago, but ultimately ran to the northward of Saypan ; this cluster, though called by Magellan, their discoverer, Ladrone (or Thieves') Islands, arc also known now by the name of Mary Ann Islands. On the 17th of Novem- ber saw the Islands of Botel Tobago Xima, situated at the south end of Formosa ; and three days afterward found the ship in the midst of a fleet of Chinese fishing-boats, the owner of one of which, for seventy dollars, promised to pilot them to Macao, in the road of which the anchof was dropped on the 25th. On comparing dates, it appeared they had lost a day by sailing round the world by the west, and, instead of the 26th, was obliged, next day, to write Sunday, the 27th. Here the speculation of the voyage turned out truly unfortunate, the sale of skins being prohibited in consequence, as it was supposed, of a new treaty of commerce with Russia, by Which the furs of the latter were to have a preference. Two vessels were already here with cargoes of these articles, which could not be sold ; Marchand therefore determined to proceed at once to the Isle of France ; had there been even permission to dispose of the lading, the price of prime otter-skins had fallen from 333 VOYAGES HOUND THE WORLD. sixty to fifteen dollars the preceding year. While here an Americall vessel came in, the captain of which had been at the Marquesas a month before Marchand, but without landing ; and who afterward, in proceeding to the north-west, had observed in May that group which, next month, Marchand examined and called Revolution Islands. He therefore was anticipated in the discovery without knowing it : but the American had made no effort to have any intercourse with the natives, or to examine the new lands. December 6th, quitted Macao, and directed the course so as to strike the bank of the Macclesfield shoal by sounding, in the middle of the China sea ; on the llth saw the Island of Pulo Sapata, and four days afterward that of Pulo Timoan, Pulo Pisang, and several others connected with the latter, which form high land, distinguishable at a considerable distance. The 18th, distinguished the Island of Banca, and passed through Caspar's Straits with safety, though then httle known to French navigators, except by name ; a week afterward got sight of the coast of the great Island of Sumatra, and, passing tliroughthe Straits of Sunda, made sail for the Isle of France ; firat seeing, however, the Cocos Islands, in 1 1 degrees 54 minutes south latitude, a small group thrown 165 leagues to the south- west of Flat Pouit, the most southern of Sumatra. After making Rodri- guez Island, situated 100 leagues directly to windward of the Isle of France, the Solide reached the latter the 30th of January, anchoring in Port Louis, or Port North- West, the principal harbour of that island, after being thirteen months and a half, with the exception of thirty days, con- stantly under sail. At this place they remained till the 18th of April, when, getting under weigh, the Solide reached St. Denis, in the Island of Reunion, or Bour- bon, situated ninety miles to leeward of the former, remarkable for producing fine coffee and cotton. May 1 6th, passed Cape Aiguillas, in Southern Africa, steering for the Island of St. Helena, at which Marchand cast anchor the 4th of June. This land is sufficiently high to be discerned in clear weather at the distance of twenty leagues. It presents at first sight nothing but a heap of craggy rocks, with here and there valleys be- tween. On Sugar-loaf Point is seen a small fort, past which it is necessary to proceed, on which is this warning to ships coming in — " Send the ship's boat on shore " — which, if neglected, the fort will sometimes fire at the offender. James Town, the only one in the island,. and situated in a valley of the same name, is commanded by two hills on each side and above it, that on the right being Rupert's, and that on the left Ladder Hill. Several batteries and redoubts scattered in every practicable place, M'ith the steep- ness of the shores, and the difficulty, or, indeed, impossibility, of ascend- ing the rocks, render landing by an enemy utterly impracticable. The island is therefore impregnable, for the battery of Ladder Hill alone would sink any vessel in the roads, or destroy any boats that attempted a dis- embarcation. All vessels that require more than twenty casks of water pay anchorage dues, amounting to twenty dollars, or five pounds ; foreign- ers are not charged higher than the English Indiamen. In 1791 and 1 792 a great drought afflicted the island, which caused extreme loss and distress. In 1789 were reckoned here 3000 head of cattle, besides con- siderable numbers of sheep, goats, and poultry, and suppUes of potatoes and other vegetables ; but the drought of the succeeding years destroyed more than half of the live stock. The island is situated in the Atlantic Ocean, 300 leagues from Cap© MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 353 Negro, the nearest point of Africa, and 600 from Cape Augustine, in South America ; it is about twenty-eight miles in circumference, and seems only the calcined summit of an isolated mountain of very great height from its base in the ocean, as the sea, at a little distance from its shores, is unfathomable ; nor is there any land nearer to it than 700 miles. The population at this time consisted of 2000 whites, about 600 soldiers, and the same number of slaves. On the 20th of June crossed the line in 25 degrees west longitude from Paris, and on the 2d of August saw the land of Europe, near to Cape St. Vincent ; on the 14th anchored in the inner harbour of Toulon, after an absence of twenty months, being the shortest voyage round the world yet etfected. MISSIONARY VOYAGE.— 1796-98. [The following voyage, though not strictly round the world, is so connected with our subject — and besides so novel in its design, and so truly benevolent and Christian-like in its object — that we cannot withhold it from our readers ; particularly as a more general knowledge of its details must highly interest a community so eminently Christian as our nation, and perhaps add to the funds of a society, in every point of view, so deserving of support and respect.] The discoveries made in the great southern sea by the voyages under- taken at the command of his majesty, George the Third, excited wonderful attention, and brought, as it were, into light a world till then almost un- known. Islands, it may be said, innumerable were found to cover the bosom of the Pacific Ocean in difierent groups. The merchant considered if they would afford any object of commerce ; the naturalist eagerly ex- plored the peculiar subject of his researches, and the astronomer sought a station from whence he might observe the transit of Venus over the sun, and deduce from thence useful improvement in the celestial science. Reflections on their unhappy situation had dropped from the pen of the humane, and pity had often swelled the bosom of the compassionate : a few felt for them, not only as men, but as Christians, and wished some mode could be devised of communicating to them the knowledge of that inestimable book, compared with which all besides is pompous ignorance, and all the treasures of the earth lighter on the balance than vanity itself. A Missionary Society was in consequence formed in England, and zea- lously seconded by their brethren in North Britain. On notifying their intentions to the public, they met a spirit of zeal and liberality highly encouraging ; applications manifold were poured in of candidates for the mission, with subscriptions adequate to the undertaking. None but men the most select for piety were to be admitted ; but especial- ly adepts in such useful arts and occupations as would make them most acceptable to the heathen in that state of inferior civilization to which they were advanced. Thirty men, six women, and three children, were approved, and presented to the directors for the commencement of tho mission. List of the Missionaries who embarked on hoard the Duff, at Blachoall NO. NAMES. AGE. OCCUPATIONS. 1 Rev. James Fleet Cover, . 34 Ordained "Minister. 3 John Eyre, . . 28 Do. Do. 3 John Jefferson, . . 36 Do. Dq. 354 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. NO. . NAMES. 4 Rev. Thomas Lewis, 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 -18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 Mr. Henry Bicknell, • Daniel Bowell, . Benj. Broomhall, John Buchanan, . James Cooper, • John Cock, ■ William Crook, ■ Samuel Clode, , John A. Gillhara, Peter Hodges, . • William Henry, John Harris, . Hudden, . Samuel Harper, Rowland Hassell, Seth Kelso, . Edward Main, . Isaac Nobbs, Henry Nort, Francis Oakes, James Puckey, . William Puckey, William Smith, . William Shelly, George Veeson, . James Wilkinson, 81 Mrs. Mary Cover, 32 Elizabeth Eyre, 33 Elizabeth Hassell, 34 Sarah Henry, . 35 Mary Hodges, 36 Hudden, . 37 James Cover, 38 Thomas Hassell, 39 Samuel Otoo Hassell, . AGE. OCCUPATIONS. . 31 Ordained, and has attended the hospitals and dispensaries, and understands printing. 29 J House-carpenter, sawyer, and . 22 Shopkeeper. [wheelwright. 20 Buckle and harness-maker. . 31 Tailor. 28 Shoemaker. . 23 Carpenter. [worker. 21 Gentleman's servent, and since tin- . 35 Whitesmith and gardener. 22 Surgeon. , 29 Smith and brazier. ■ 23 Carpenter and joiner. 39 Cooper. . — Butcher. 26 Cotton manufacturer. . 27 Indian weaver. 48 Weaver. . 24 Tailor, (late of the Royal Artillery.) 24 Hatter. . 22 Bricklayer. 25 Shoemaker. . 25 Carpenter. 20 Carpenter. . 21 Linen-draper. 21 Cabinet-maker. , 24 Bricklayer. 27 Carpenter and joiner. WOMEN. . 37 Wife of J. F. Cover. 64 John Eyre. . 29 Rowland Hassell. 23 William Henry. . 25 P. Hodges. • Hudden. CHILDREN. . 12 Son of J. F. Cover. 2 Rowland Hassell. 16 weeks. Do. Captain Wilson and the first mate, his nephew, were persons in every view equal to the undertaking, and as hearty in the work as the missiona- ries themselves. Many of the sailors were men of a like mind ; about half were communicants, and every man was eager to beg admittance, under the profession of wishing to be instrumental in so blessed a service, and the hope that he should gain benefit and edification to his own soul. The preparations being completed, and the missionaries ready for em- barcation, the directors of the society were very anxious for the Duflf's sailing with the East India convoy. They now took their final departure from Portsmouth, and launched forth on the great deep the 24th of September, 1796. The signal for sailing being given, the missionaries came on deck, and every countenance seemed elated with joy at the thought of soon being employed in the great work. MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 355 Proceeding fast to the southward, on the 13th of October, about nine, A. M., they saw Sal, which is the northernmost of the Cape de Verde Isles ; it has a sun-burnt appearance, insomuch that, as they sailed along to the eastward, about three miles off shore, there was not a tree or green spot to be seen. With pleasant weather, all sails set, and a fine fair wind, by eleven, A. M., could discern St. Jago off the deck. At one, P. M., passed the south-east point, and half an hour after tacked close to Green Island ; then made two short tacks, and came-to with the small bower in eight fathoms. 18th. Having completed their refreshments here, and afresh taken their departure, at a Uttle distance off the island a fine breeze sprang up, and continued from east-south-east to east-north-east. 22d, a number of sharks were playing round the ship ; they caught two, each about five feet long ; after being cut into pieces, and the entrails taken out, the heads jumped about the deck for a considerable time. 12th of November, at daylight, made sail and ran for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro ; but the breeze failing, and the tide contrary, it was one o'clock in the afternoon before they reached the entrance. When nearly there, a pilot-boat came alongside, in which was the head harbour-master, who took charge of the ship. Quitting this place, they now proceeded on their voyage, in hopes of effecting i,t by the way of Cape Horn, which was their original intention. The captain had laid in a fresh store of such provisions as this place afforded, with sugar, wine, and whatever might be necessary in the long run before them. 20th. Lord's day. Brothers Eyre and Jefferson preached. In leaving this harbour, and again launching into the deep, they thought on all the mercies of God, who had dealt so wonderfully with them, and protected them hitherto in safety through the pathless ocean ; they could, with humble dependence, trust him for the future. During the first few days nothing remarkable occurred. December 3d. In the morning the sea ran exceedingly high, and the wind blew a com- plete storm, which reduced them to a close-reefed main-topsail and fore- sail. Several of their live stock died, either by the cold or the spray of the sea, so that they were in danger of losing the whole of this invaluable preservative of health. Not only the greater part of the missionaries were sea-sick, but some of the seamen also. Mrs. Eyre, already ex- hausted by continued illness, seemed unable long to sustain these greater trials. Being thus situated, the captain was apprehensive that, in per- severing in their endeavours to double Cape Horn, their raw, unseasoned company of landmen, women, and children, might fall victims to the re- peated storms and colder weather, which they might expect to meet with in the attempt. Therefore, the captain, after deliberately weighing the cir- cumstances, relinquished a plan which, to execute, required a ship's crew of hardy sailors, unaccompanied by tender women and children, and adopt- ed the resolution of going the eastern passage ; that is, to pass a few degrees south of the Cape of Good Hope, to sail to the southward of the south capes of New Holland and New Zealand, keeping in the track of the westerly winds till near the meridian of Otaheite, and then to steer to the northward for that island. The missionaries were now applying themselves to the Otaheitean language, the most diligent giving pleasing proofs of their desire and aptness to acquire it. A part of each day was also appropriated to reading the Rev. Mr. Greathead's account of the South Sea Islands ; this they styled Missionary Geography, from thence deriving consKJerable knowledge ; their minds also became moreexercisedi 356 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. and a difference of opinion gradually increased concerning the propriety of their separating, and which group appeared the most eUgible and safe to settle in ; some preferred the Friendly Isles, and others Otaheite. John Harris alone was for the Marquesas ; he had long ago made that choice, and still remained unshaken in his resolution, desiring only to have one or two to accompany him, -and for that purpose was now using his interest with the young men, few of whom as yet seemed inclined to settle at the Marquesas. In consequence of the probability of such a separa- tion taking place, a meeting of the whole body of missionaries was held, when, after a long conversation, it was moved, '* That eight persons and the chairman (the captain) be chosen to draw up a code of church govern- ment for the future conduct of their little society, together with ceriaia religious principles, to be signed by every individual." February 21st. Ninety-seven days had now passed since they left Rio Janeiro, and, except one vessel met with a week after their n, he was tcld, yes. Being conducted into the house, he and his wife dined with them and departed. As Peter the Swede had offered to go with them to the Friendly Is- lands, the captain consented, thinking that he might be serviceable on some occasions as interpreter. He proposed taking with him a young woman named Tanno Manno, with whom he had for some time lived as his wife, a man the mutineers had named Tom, and a boy called Harra- way. The last two Mr. Crook, who had already made great proficiency in the Otaheitean language, thought might be great helps to him. The native^ understood they were now about to leave them for some months, but the captain's intention was to lie a few days at Eimeo, and, previous to setting off for the Marquesas, to touch again in Matavai Bay, when he might probably learn how the natives were likely to behave during their absence. About an hour before daylight weighed, with a light air from the south- east. Kept running along the edge of the coral reefs toward Taloo har- bour. This harbour is on the north side of the island ; the bottom so clear that you distinctly see the coral, with its beautiful branches. Here they first saw a tupapow ; the flesh was quite gone ; the skin, like parchment stretched over the bones, remained : the natives seemed averse to their examining it. Two posts about six feet long are let into the ground at each end ; on these abroad plank is laid, and the corpse is there extended, wrapped in cloth, to dry, and a small shed, like a boat in- verted, placed over it to keep out the rain. The bad conduct of the captain's steward had been often noted, though the missionaries were reluctant to complain. This had at last exhausted the patience of the captain, who turned him out of the cabin before the mast. This evening, going on shore with others to bathe, he secreted himself, having contrived to get some of his things on shore unknown to any but the Swede. 25th. At six, A. M., with a light breeze from south-south-east, weighed and stood out of Taloo harbour. Toward evening saw Tethuroa, low land, about twenty-four miles from Otaheite. 26th. About four in the afternoon tacked the ship close in with One Tree Hill, hoisted the colours, and fired a gun ; upon hearing of which, Messrs. Cover, Lewis, Henry, Gillham, and others, came off in a double canoe, and reported that all was well. The wind being fresh to east, they filled their topsails, and left them far astern, the ship steering for the Friendly Islands. The day following their departure from Matavai they passed to the southward of the Society Islands, in sight of Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola ; then, with a fine fair wind and pleasant weather, shaped a course for Palmerston's Island, which they intended to visit, as it lay directly in their way. Accordingly, on the 1st of April, a little before day, saw it bearing west, distant about two leagues ; then running nearer, hoisted out the pinnace and jolly-boat, and attempted landing on the south- easternmost isle ; but finding it impracticable, on account of the surf breaking high on every part of the surrounding reef, they bore down to the next isle, which is the south- westernmost, and found it almost as bad to land upon as that they had left. On Wednesday, the 5th of April, saw Savage Island, but did not get near it before dark. In passing the north end perceived three lights, and on the west side seven more. They now shaped a course for Tongataboo. On Sunday, the 9th, at ten, A. M., saw the land. Passing to the northward of Eoo-aije, steered west-south- 31 362 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. west, to the en'.rance, then west by south and west, up the harbour, fol- lowed by a canoe and several others which put off" from the eastern part of the main island and the isles that lie scatteied upon the reef. Their followers were now all eager to come onboard ; but though they were willing to grant them every prudent indulgence, yet they were too numerous to have free access. After dinner a chief, named Futtafaihe, was introduced to the captain as a person of great power in Tongataboo ; and indeed such he appeared ; he was about forty years of age, stout and weil-proj)ortioned, of an open, free countenance, noble demeanour, and a gait stately, or rather pompous, for by it alone they should have taken him a for a very great man. After the captain had made him a present of an axe, a looking-glass, and some other articles, he took his leave, and was hardly from the ship when two Europeans made their ap- pearance ; they came alongside without hesitation, and slipping on board with alacrity, gave them the unspeakable pleasure of hearing their own language spoken by them. One, named Benjamin Ambler, says, that he was born in the parish of Shadwell, London, and that his parents now keep a public-house in Cannon-street. He is a bold, talkative, presuming fellow, seems to speak the language fluently, and says that he learned it wilh great facility. John Connelly is a native of Cork, in Ireland, by trade a cooper, and is far less talkative than his comrade. An Irishman named Morgan remained at Annamooka ; they had been about thirteen months at Tongataboo. Ambler informed them that Futtafaihe was a great chief, and presided over all the eastern part of the island ; but that there was an old man named Tibo Moomooe, of great power, and generally esteemed as king over the island : at present, they said, he was in a bad state of health, for which reason he could not gratify his desire to come on board when the ship first came to anchor. About ten o'clock in the forenoon Ambler and Connelly came with a present of three hogs and some yams from Moo- mooe, informing them that himself intended to follow. Accordingly the venerable chief was very soon alongside, but was long before he durst venture up the ladd«r, fearing he had not strength sufficient for the task ; he at last, liowever, made the trial, but was so exhausted thereby that he was obliged to rest himself at the gangway, thence his attendants led him to the quarterdeck ladder, where he again sat down, saying that ho would not go before the captain till he was shaved ; and to please him in this, Mr. Harris began the operation, and finished it, much to the satis- faction of this decent chief. They examined minutely the jointing of the chairs and of the mahogany table, and expressed no small degree of asto- nishment at finding themselves so far excelled ; for they cherish an idea of being superior to all their neighbours. V/hen told that the men brought to hve among them could teach them those arts, and also better things, they seemed quite transported. This favourable opportunity the captahi improved, by mentioning every circumstance that could raise in their minds a high idea of the missionaries, interrogating Moomooe as to his willingncsa,for them to reside there, and also what provision he would make for them ; to which he answered, that for the present they should have a house near his own, until one more suitable could be provided; they should also have a piece of land for their use ; and he would take care that neither their property nor persons should be molested ; adding that, if they pleased, they might go on shore and examine the house, when, if they did not like the situation, he would order it to be removed to any spot they preferred, for this he could have done in a few hours. # MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 363 At nine o'clock Ambler came off with Toogahowe, who had already agreed with the former to take all the brethren under his protection, also to give them a house, and the land attached to it, lor their use. Tooga- howe, by Ambler's account, is the most powerful chief in the island ; 13 the greatest warrior, and in consequence not only a terror to the chiefs of Tongataboo, but likewise to those of the adjacent islands. In the afternoon a canoe came for the missionaries' things, and was immediately loaded ; Bov/ell, Buchanan, Gaulton, Harper, Shelly, Veeson, and Wil- kinson, accompanied by B. Ambler, embarked in it, and proceeded west- ward to a place called Aheefo. A petty chief, named Commabye, was ordered by Toogahowe to go with them and see that nothing was lost. Kelso, Cooper, and Nobbs, remained on board to prepare the rest of the things. The cargo brought on shore was surrounded by a hundred per^ sons, who alarmed brother Harj^er and another ; but Mytyle ordered the chests into a house near, and dismissed the people, threatening if any man, during the night, approached to steal, he should be put to death. So the brethren lay down on mats, in perfect security, till waked by Mytyle, at one o'clock in the morning, to partake of an entertainment, which he had provided, of fish, hot yams, cocoa nuts, &c. 14th. A dis- agreeable night was succeeded by a morning altogether mild and pleasant ; and with a clear sky and gentle breeze westerly they got again under weigh for the Marquesas. On the 23d of May discovered land; at eight, A. M., the extremities of a low island bore from west 25 degrees south to west 32 degrees south, distant about five leagues. This being a new discovery, tacked a little before noon, on purpose to take a nearer vie*v. This was named Cres- cent Island, on account of its form ; it is six or seven miles in circum- ference, and lies in latitude 23 degrees 22 minutes south, longitude 225 degrees 30 minutes east. They directed their course west-north-west toward an island with two high hills that he contiguous to each other, and are so lofty as to be discovered when disiant fourteen or fifteen leagues. These, for distinction's sake, were named Duff's Mountains. When within three leagues, saw a reef ahead, and the sea breaking very high upon it ; this obliged them to alter their* course to north-north- west. After ruiming thus about an hour, had a better view, and it appear- ed that Duff's Mouutams were part of an island about three leagues m length, with several of considerable height and extent to the south and south-east of it ; the whole forming a group five or six leagues long, lying in a direction nearly north-east by north and south-west by south ; and a reef which lies off about three miles from the main island, and probably encircles the whole as a defensive barrier, extended as far each way as they could see. The group was named Gambler's Islands, in compliment to the worthy admiral of that name, who, in his department, countenanced their equipment. Duff's Mountains, wliich lie in the centre, are in lati- tude 23 degrees 12 minutes south, and in longitude 225 degrees east. The 2Gih, at half-past five in the morning, just as the day broke, thought they saw low land ahead, when the day presented' to view the imminent danger they had escaped. This island, lying in latitude 21 degrees 36 minutes south by observation, and in longitude- 224 degrees 36 minutes east by chronometer, is probably the same called Lord Hood's Island by Captain Edwards, who discovered it, in the Pandora, 17th of March, 1791. On the 28Lh, at noon, observed, in latitude 18 degrees 34 mmutes south,' and about three in the afternoon discovered another low island bearing north-east. This received the name of Searl's Island, in compliment to 364 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. a gentleman of that name now in the Transport-office, and author of Horre So'itari-ae and other valuable works. From this time nothing mat eiial occurred until they made the iVIarquesas. On the 5th of June, when within four miles of Resolution Bay, saw two men paddling toward them in a small wretched canoe, which they kept above waier by constant bailing. Though it was now dark, tv/o females swam off, in hopes, no doubt, of a favourable reception : but finding they could not be adniitted, they kept swimming about the ship for near half an hour, calling out, in a pitiful tone, " Waheine ! waneine !" that is, Wo- man 1 or, V/e ftre women ! They then returned to the shore in the same manner as they eame. The 6th, their first visiters from the shore came early ; they were seven beautiful young women, swimming quite naked, except a few green leaves lied round their middle : they kept playing round the ship for three hours, calling Waheine ! until several of the native men had got on board ; one of whom, being the chief of the island, requested that his sister might be taken on board, which was complied with : she was of a fair complexion, inclining to a healthy yellow, with a tint of red in her cheek, was rather stout, but possessing such symmetry of features, as did all her companions, that, as models for the statuary and painter, their equal can seldom be found. Their Otaheitean girl, who was tolerably fair and had a comely person, was notwithstanding greatly eclipsed by these v/omen. The chief above noticed is named Tenae, eldest son of Honoo, the reigning prince in Captain Cook's time ; he came in a tolerably good canoe, and introduced himself by presenting the captain with a smooth staff about eight feet long, to the head of which a few locks of human hair were neatly plaited ; and, besides this, he gave a few head and breast ornaments. Observing a musket on the quarter-deck, ho took it with care to the captain,. and begged him " to put it to sleep." He received an axe, a looking-glass, and neck-chain to hang it, also a pair of scissors ; the latter, an article much prized at the Friendly and Society Isles, he was either indifferent about, or totally ignorant of their use. Their intention of settling two men among them being made known to the chief, he seemed higtily delighted with the proposal, and said that he V(?ould give them a house and a share in all that himself had. After this he went on shore ; Mr. Wilson followed, with Mr. Harris, Mr. Crook, Peter, and Otaheitean Tom. Tenae received them upon the beach, and conducted them to one of his best houses, intimai'ng that it was for the use of the brethreii, and that they might occupy it as soon as they pleased. To convey an idea of what this and all their best-built houses are like, it is only necessary tp imagine one of our own of one story high, with a high peaked roof; cui it lengthwise exactly down the middle, you would then have, two of their houses, only built of different materials. The 8th, Tenae was now more familiar tlian at his hrst visit, and sur- veyed the cabin with a degree of attention, but not with the penetration and discernment of the Friendly islanders. Happening to touch the wire of the cabin-btdl, he was struck with astonishment and savage wonder ; he rang the bell again and again, and puzzled himself a quarter of an hour to find whence the sound proceeded. Sunday, the natives crowded off as usual ; but, on being told that the ship was taboo for that day, ihey all ^wam buck to the shore. On the 20th Mr. Harris and Crook came on board, and held a meeting with the captain respecting their stay. Mr. Hams complai.ied of the poverty of the place ; said that he could not eat the mahie, k-c. Crook declared his determination to stay, even though Harris should leave him. On the 21th the fishermen, whom they hauled MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 365 m at the quarter- gallery at first coming, swam off at break of tlay, and in- formed them that Mr. Harris had been on the beach all the night wiih his chest, and had been robbed of most of his things. Tenae, it seems, wanted to treat them with an excursion to another valley, to which Crook readily agreed, but Mr. Harris would not consent. The chief seeing this, and desirous of obliging him, not considering any favour too great, left him his wife, to be treated as if she were his own, till the chief came back again. Mr. Harris told him that he did not want the woman ; however, she looked up to him as her husband, and findingherselftreated with total neglecL, became doubtful of his sex, and acquainted some of the other females with her suspicion. Discovering so many strangers, he was great- ly terrified ; and, perceiving what they had been doing, was determined to leave a place where the people were so abandoned and given up to wickedness, a cause which should have excited a contrary resolution. Crook is a young man of twenty-two, remarkably serious and steady, always employed in the improvement of his mind, and applied with great diligence to the attainment of the language. He also possesses a very good genius, and no doubt will contrive many things to benefit the poor creatures he lives with ; and as the valley is capable of great improvement, they should not be surprised to hear of this and the islands adjacent be- coming very plentiful places by his means. He has various kinds of garden seeds, implements, medicines, &;c., an Encyclopedia, and other useful books. The 27th, at four in the morning, they weighed and stood out of the bay with a light air easterly. Their religious ceremonies resemble those of the Society Islands. They have a moral in each district, where the dead are buried beneath a pavement of large stones, but with such excep- tions as in the case of the Chief Honoo. They have a multitude of deities. Those most frequently mentioned are Opooamanne, Okeeo, Oenamoe, Opee-peetye, Onooko, Oetanow, Fatee-aitapoo, and Onoetye ; but none who seem superior to the rest, though the extent of information is small on this head. They only offer hogs in sacrifices, and never men. The Chief Tenae presides over four districts, Ohitahoo, Taheway, and Innamei, all opening into Resolution Bay, and Onopoho, the adjoining valley to the southward. He has four brothers ; Aeowtaytay, Natooafeedoo, Ohee- phee, and Moeneenee ; but none of them seem invested with any authority ; and Tenae himself with less than the Otaheitean chiefs. There is no regular government, established law, nor punishments ; but custom is the general rule. July 3d, fell in with Tiookea, a lagoon island, many of which lie scat- tered about this part of the ocean, and render the navigation in dark weather dangerous. On the 6th, at seven in the morning, they saw the high land of Otaheite ; and at noon, being close in, ran between the Dolphin Bank and Point Venus Reef, and came to anchor in Matavai Bay. The natives crowded off, all exceedingly glad to see them ; the brethren followed in a flat-bottomed boat, which they had been desired to build for the purpose of passing the shallow entrance of the river with the goods. The report they gave was pleasing to all. They had in general enjoyed good health. The natives had constantly observed tlx) same respectful behaviour toward them as at first, and had never failed a day to supply them abundantly with all kinds of provisions. One of the arreoies, the tayo of brother Henry, came to the missionaries with his wife big with child : Hhey were taking their leave, in order, during their absence, to destroy the hifant which should be born, according to the 31^ 366 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. ordinance of that diabolical society. They thought this a proper oppor- tunity to remonstrate with them against this horrid custom. The mother felt with tenderness, and appeared willing to spare the infant ; but the brutal chief continued obscinately bent on his purpose, though he ac- knowledged it a bloody act, pleading the established custom, his loss of all privileges, and the dissolution ot the society, if this should become general. They offered to build them a house for the pregnant women, and take every child which should be born into their immediate care. They threatened him, that such an unnatural act would exclude him from their friendship for ever, and more, that the eatooa (their God) would certainly punish hira. He said, if he saw the arreoios destroyed by the eatooa for it, he would desist ; and asked if their forefathers were suffer- ing for these practices. Pomarrey and Iddeah came at noon, and going into the married bre- thren's apartment, found them conversing with the arreoies on the evil of destroying infants. Iddeah was particularly addressed on the subject, as she too was pregnant by a toutou, who cohabited with her, and was also of the arreoie society. Pomarrey and Iddeah had for some time ceased to cohabit ; he had taken another wife, and she one of her servants ; but they lived in the same state of friendship, and with no loss of dignity. The brethren endeavoured to convince her of the dread.^ulncss of murder, in a mother especially. They promised to receive the child immediately, and it should be no trouble to her ; but she was sullen and made no repiy. Tiiey then addressed Pomarrey, and entreated his interference in suppress- ing such acts of inhumanity, and to give orders that no more human sacrifices should be offered. He replied he would ; said that Captain Cook told him it should not be done ; but did not stay long enough to instruct them. A fact was reported to them, which, if true, was shocking. In one of Captain Cook's visits he left a great monkey, who was made a chief at Atahourou ; he had a wife and thirty servants, and abundance of every- thing ; they called him Taata oore harrai, the great man-dog. One day the woman seeing him catch flies and eat them, which they abominate, she ran away into the mountains ; the monkey and his toutous pursued, but being met by Temarre, who was jealous of his authority, he knocked him down with a club and killed him. One of the brethren this evening sitting in his birth writing, a young girl came in, and expressed her sur- prise that they behaved so different to them from what all their country- men had done. He told her that such practices were wicked, and if they did such things God would be angry. " Oh," said she, " but I will come to you in the night, and then none can see us." They had de^sired Peter, that if a mawhoo came in their way, he should point him out ; and here there happened to be one in Pomarrey's train. He was dressed like a woman, and mimicked the voice and every pecu- liarity of the sex. They asked Pomarrey what he was, who answered " Taata, mawhoo," that is, a man, a mawhoo. As they fixed their eyes upon the fellow, he hid his face : this they at first construed into shame, but found it afterward to be a womanish trick. These mawhoos choose this vile way of life when young ; putting on the dress of a woman, they follow the same employments, are under the same prohibitions with respect to food, &c., and seek the courtship of men the same as women do ; nay, are more jealous of the men who cohabit with them, and always refuse to sleep with women. The great moral of Oberea stands on a point to the eastward ; thither they went, to have a view of so great a curiosity. Otoo has one of his MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 367 representative houses here ; and in passing it some of his servants, judg- ing whither they were going, followed, and were Tery assiduous hi ex- plaining everything. This morai is an enormous pile of stone-work, in form of a pyramid, on a parallelogram area ; it has a flight of ten sl,ej)s quite round it, the first of which, from the ground, is six feet high, the rest about five feet ; it is in length, at the base, two hundred and seventy feet ; width, at ditto, ninety-four feet ; at the top it is one hundred and eighty feet long, and about six wide ; the steps are composed partly of regular rows of squared coral stones, about eighteen inches high, and partly with bluish coloured pebble stones, nearly quite round, of a hard texture, all about six inches diameter, and in their natural unhewn state : this is the outside. The inside, that is to say, what composes the solid mass, (for it has no hol- low space,) is composed of stones of various kinds and shapes. It is a wonderful strutvire ; and it must have cost them immense time and pains to bring such a quantity Of stones together, and particularly to square the coral of the steps with the tools they had when it was raised ; for it was before iron came among them ; aijd as they were ignorant of mortar or cement, it required all the care they have taken to fit the stones regularly to each other, that it might stand. When Sir Joseph Banks saw this place, there was, on the centre of the summit, a representation of a bird, carved in wood ; and close by it the figure of a fish, carved in stone : but both are now gone, and the stones of the upper steps are in many places fallen ; the walls of the court have also gone much to ruin, and the flat pavement is only in some places discernible. The above gentleman, speaking of this court, says, " The pyramid constitutes one side of a court or square, the sides of which were nearly equal ; and the whole was walled in and paved with flat stones : notwithstanding which pavement, several plantains and trees, which the natives call etoa, grew within the enclosure." At present there is within this square a house, called the house of the eatooa, in which a man constantly resides. Sir Joseph farther says, " that at a small distance to the westward of this edifice was another paved square, that contained several small stages, called ewattas by the natives, which appeared to be altars whereon they placed the offerings to their gods ;" and that he afterward saw whole hogs placed upon these stages or altars. The guide led to this spot, which appears also to have gone much to ruin ; he showed the altar, which is a heap of stones, and how they lay their offer- ing upon it ; he then went a few yards back, and laying hold of an upright stone like a gravestone, he knelt with one knee, and looking upward, began to call on the eatooa, by crying, *' Whooo, whooo ;" and by afterward making a whisthng noise, intimated it to be the way in which the eatooa answered them. Before dinner they set off with the chief to see a morai, where it was said the ark of the eatooa was deposited, and which had been conjectured by some visiters to bear a similitude in form to the ark of the covenant. Though it was about noon, m the road they felt little of the heat of the sun : lofty bread fruit trees afforded them a pleasant shade ; and, as there was but little underwood, they felt no annoyance, except from a few flies. Turmeric and ginger abounded, as also the wild cotton tree. The morai stands on the north side of the valley, about a mile or more from the beach ; it is erected on level ground, enclosed with a square wooden fence, each side of which may measure thirty or forty yards. About one- half of the platform, next the interior side of the square, is paved ; and on this pavement, nearly in the middle, there stands an altar upon sixteen wooden pillars, each eight feet high ; it is forty feet long and seven feet 368 VOYAdES ROUND THE WORLD. wide : on the top a^ the pillars the platform for the oSerings is laid with thick malting upon it, >vliich, overhanging each side, forms a deep fringe all around it. Upon this mattmg are offerings of whole hogs, turtle, large fish, plantains, )'Oung cocoa nnts, &c., the whole in a state of putrefac- tion, which sends an offensive smell all round the place. A large space on One side of the fence was broken down, and a heap of rough stones laid in the gap : upon these stones, and ni a line with the fence, were placed what they call tees ; these were boards from six to seven feet high, cut into various shapes. At a corner near this stood a house and two sheds, where men constantly attended. They entered the house, and found at one end the little house or ark of the eatooa ; it was made exactly like those they set on their canoes, but smaller, being about four feet long, and three in height and breadth. As it contained nothing but a few pieces of cloth, they inquired where they had hid the eatooa ; they answer- ed, that it had been taken in the morning to a small morai near the water- side, but that they would immediately bring it, which they did in about half an hour. Though the English had not viewed this place without feel- ing for the poor creatures, yet, when they laid their eatooa on the ground, they could hardly restrain a laugh. It was in shape exactly like a sailor's hammock lashed up, and composed of two parts, the larger one just the size of the house, and the lesser, which was lashed upon it, was about half that size ; at the ends were fastened little bunches of red and yellow feathers, the offerings of the wealthy. On their way back they called to see the body of Orepiah, as preserved in a tupapow^ : he had not been many months dead, and was now in a perfectly dry state. The man to whom the performance of this opera- tion was entrusted lived close by, and came near when he saw them. He seemed quite willing to oblige, and asked if they would like to see the body unshrouded ; for, as it lay, nothmg could be seen but the feet. Answering in the affirmative, he drew it out upon the uncovered stage, and took several wrappers of cloth off it ; and, laughing all the while, placed the corpse in a sitting posture. The body had been opened, but the skin everywhere else was unbroken, and, adhering close to the bones, it appeared like a skeleton covered with oil-cloth. It had little or no smell, and would, notwithstanding the heat of the climate, remain so preserved for a considerable time. The method they take for this is, to clear the body of the entrails, brain, &c. ; then washing it well ; they Tub it daily outside and in with cocoa nut oil, till the flesh is quite dried up ; after which they leave it to the all-destroying hand of Time. This tupapow was constructed by driving four long stakes in the ground, about six feet asunder, lengthwise, and four in breadth : besides these, two others, not so long by three feet, are driven on a line, and six feet from the former four ; a stage is then made at the height of the shortest two, and the corpse being laid at one end, a thatched roof is raised upon the four highest stakes, to shelter it from the rain ; the vacant part of the stage is to pull it upon, either for rubbing with the oil, or exhibiting it to the friends and relations of the deceased. On the adjoining trees plan- tains and bread fruit hung for the use of the dead. They asked them where they thought his spirit, or thinking part, had gone 1 At this they smiled, and said, " Harre po," that is, " Gone to the night." They were now extremely anxious to ascertain the population of the island, which, from a variety of circumstances, appeared to them infi- nitely less populous than as represented by Captain Cook and others. For this purpose two or three of them set off, accompanied by Peter, the JllSSlONARY VOYAGB. 369 Swede, as interpreter. Stopping at the house of Inona Madui, widow of Orepiah, they communicated their purpose to her head servant, Aheins Eno, apparently an intelligent fellow, who instantly suggested a mode of counting, which they afterward adopted. He said that in Whyripoo there were four matteynas, and to each matteyna there were ten tees. A matteyna, he said, was a principal house, distinguished either by a de- gree of rank in its ancient or present ov^ner, or by a portion of land being attached to it ; and sometimes on account of its -central situation to a few other houses. It sets up a tee or image at the moral, which enti- tles it to the liberty of worshipping there, and the other hou-ses claim a part in the same privilege, and are thence called tees ; from what they saw, allowing six persons to each matteyna and tee, the population is as follows ; Districts. 1 Whyripoo ... - 2 Whapiawno - - - - 3 Wharoomy - - - - 4 Ilewow 5 liahbdhboonea - - - 6 Honoowhyah - - - 7 Nahnu Nahnoo - - 8 Ot-yayree . - - - - 9 Wha-ah-heinah - - 10 Hcdeah 11 Part of Terrawow on this side of the isthmus uninhabited. 12 Wy-eree 13 Wyooreede .... 14 Attemonoo ... - 15 Pappara IG Ahaheinah - - - - 17 Atahourou - - - - 18 Tettaha 19 Oparree 20 Matavai Presiding Chiefs. [nna Madua Wylouah Wyreede Aowh * - - Maune Manne - - - - Otoo Ditto Pomarrey Noe Noe Roorah and 3 more - - Inna Madua - - - - Maahe-hanoo (female) Tayreedc (wife of Tcmarre) Ditto Ditto Ditto Ditto Pomarrey -..>.. Ditto Missionaries . s. . . -Mat. Tees.! 6 4 28 233 1 9 2 11 1 8 3 28 3 18 2 23 4 53 42 1G7 32 42 13 161 2 24 17 157 8 105 25 243 12 130 IG 199 27 110 Total of men, women, and cMldrcn, in Otaheite Ditto in Tiarrabou Total on the whole island No. of Souls. 264 1596 60 7S 54 18G 126 144 312, 12M 444 1044 156 1044 678 1608 852 1290 22 11,242 4,008 15,250 In the dusk of the evening of the 27th, one of the seamen, William Tucker, made his escape from the ship. About ten at night a native paddled off, calling out, as he approached the ship, " All's well." His business, it seemed, v/as to communicate something concerning Tucker ; but he was so stupified with ava, that he could not articulate a word. The coming of another canoe explamed the matter. In this last were three of the missionaries, Iddeah, two of Otoo's servants, and Tucker bound, who cursed Otoo heartily for his treachery. It appears that Otoo had been privy to the whole affair, and had himself daily fed Tucker. August 4th. Light airs of wind. At eight, A. M , weighed anchor, and stood out of Matavai Bay. When to leeward of Huaheiae, canoea came alongside ; in one of them was Connor, one of the Matilda's crew. To their astonishment, he had forgotten his native tongue, being able 370 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. to recollect only a few words : and if he began a sentence in Ei.glish, h^ was obliged to finish it in the language of the islands. At noon next day were no farther than between Otaha and Bolabola. A few canoes came off from both islands ; but as it was Sunday, agreeably to the rule inva- riably followed, they had no intercourse with them. On the I7ih, came in sight of Eooa, and next day moored ship in the harbour of Tongata- boo. Before they had anchored, George Veeson, one of the missiona- ries, came^off, and informed them that the brethren were all well, Isaac Nobbs excepted ; and that, for reasons judged most prudent, they had separated into small parties, and were now with different chiefs. Bowell and Harper were together with a chief named Vaarjee, who resides at a place called Ardco, Veeson with Mulicemar, a chief of the district of Ahoge, thirty miles from Aheefo, and Cooper with Mooree at Ahoge, the rest were still at Aheefo. At the funeral of Moondoe, who died in April, brother Bowell went with Ambler to Bunghye to see the ceremony, and found about 4000 persons sitting round the place where the fiatooka stands. A few mi- nutes after their arrival they heard a great shouting and blowing o( conch shells at a small distance ; soon after about 100 men appeared, armed with clubs and spears, and rushing into the area, began to cut and man- gle themselves in a most dreadful manner ; many struck their heads vio- lently with their clubs ; and the blows, which might be heard thirty or forty yards off, they repeated till the blood ran down in streams. Others, w^ho had spears, thrust them through their thighs, arms, and cheeks, all the while calling on the deceased in a most affectionate manner. A native of I^eejee, who had been a servant of the deceased, appeared quite frantic ; he entered the area with fire in his hand, and having pre- viously oiled his ha'r, set it on fire, and r-an about with it all on flame. When they had satisfied themselves with this manner of torjpient, they sat down, beat their faces with their fists, and then retired. A second party went through the same cruelties, and after them a third entered, shouting and blowing the shells: four of the foremost held stones, which they used to knock out their teeth ; those who blew the shells cut their heads with them in a shocking manner. A man that had a spear run it through his arm just above the elbow, and, with it sticking fast, ran about the area for some time. Another, who seemed to be a principal chief, acted as if quite bereft of his senses ; he ran to every corner of the area, and at each station beat his head with a club til! the blood flowed over his shoulders. A great heava or mai was performed at the fiatooka of Moomoe ; first by women in their best garments and finest mats : pieces of English cloth or silk were added as ornaments ; the perfumed cocoa nut oil dropping from their hair. Two drums and a vocal concert of men sitting round accompanied the women, who also sung and danced, performing various evolutions in a most graceful man- mer. An old chief at intervals called out, " fyfogee," or,- encore, and sometimes " marea," or, well done. The natives expressed much surprise at observing how different the missionary manners were from those of their countrymen, whose time is spent in idleness and profligacy. One of them has four wives, another three, and the other two. With such men it was impossible for them to maintain any fellowship, and their envy and enmity they bitterly experi- enced. Ambler and Morgan having heard that they suspected them of havinqr driven off their hogs, came to their house and began to abuse them ; and Morgan even kicked one of their number. Seeing them determined MISSIONARY rOYAGE. 371 to proceed farther, a scuffle ensued ; Morgan again struck with his clu> the person he had before kicked, but the blow did no great injury. They then desisted, finding themselves overpowered, but not from uttering the most horrid execrations both on them and also on themselves, if they did not prove bitter enemies, and murder them before morning. The government of Tongataboo is so complex in itself, and the natives' account of it so different, each taking a particular pride in exalting his own chief above others, that it is difficult to come to any certainty con- cerning it. The following appears most consistent with the truth : This island bears an unrivalled sovereignty over the whole group, Feejee not excepted. The inhabitants of Feejee having long ago dis- covered this island, frequently invaded and committed great cruelties in it ; but in an expedition which the Tonga people made against them lately, under the command of Tongahowe, Filatonga, and Cummavie, they com- pletely routed and brought them into subjection, so that they now pay tribute to Tongataboo on certain occasions, the same as the otlier islands, of which they saw an instance at the death of Moomooe. ' Tongataboo is divided into three large districts, viz., Aheefo, at the north-west end, over which Dugonaboota reigns with absolute sway, Mooa, the middle district, is under the same subjection to Futtafaihe ; and Vaharlo has the same power over Ahoge, situate at the south-east part, each claiming a right of disposal over the lives and property of his own subjects, which the English have seen exercised most despotically. The people fully answer to the most favourable representations the world has ever received of them ; for surely no appellation was ever better ap- plied than that given to them by our countrymen, of which they seem very proud, since the brethren made them acquainted with it, and very studious to render themselves more deserving of it. They possess many excellent qualities, which, were they enlightened with the knowledge of the gospel, would render them the most amiable people on earth ; for histance, their bounty and liberality to strangers is very great, and their generosity to one another unequalled. It is no uncommon thing for them to complain they are dying of hunger, and, as soon as they receive food, to divide it among as many as are present, the first receiver generally leaving himself the smallest share, and often none at all. Their marriages are attended with very little ceremony ; the only one seen was that of Vaarjee, with whom brothers Bowell and Harper were sometimes resident. This was conducted in the following manner : A young female having attracted his attention, he first informed his mother that he wished to add her to the number of his wives. She immediately communicated this to the damsel's father, and the proposal meeting his approbation, he clothed her in a new garment, and with attendants, and such a quantity of baked hogs, yams, yava root, &c., as he could afford, she was sent to her intended spouse, who, being apprized of her coming, seated himself in his house, and received her in the same manner and with as little emotion as he would have done any other visiter ; feasting on the provisions, and a good draught of yava concluded the whole, and the bride was at liberty either to return to her father till again sent for, or take up her residence with her husband, which in this instance she preferred, Futtafaihe, on one occasion, roasted a large hog for dinner, after which he accompanied them to the fiatookas of his ancestors : they he ranged in a line eastward from his house, among a grove of trees, and are many in number, and of different constructions ; some in a square form were not iu the least raised above the level of the common ground ; a row of Profile of the stejis. S7'2 VOYAGES RODNO THE VfORLt) large stones formed the sides, and at each corner two high stones wero placed upright at right angles to each other, and in a line with their re- spective sides ; others were such as ihe brethren describe that of Moo- mooe to be, and a third sort were built square like the first ; the largest of which was at the base 156 feet b)' 140; it had four steps from the bottom to the top, that run quite round the rp pile ; one stone composed the height of each -^^^^P- - step, a part of it being sunk in the ground ; and some of these stones in the wall of the lower are immensely large ; one, which they .,. measured, was twenty-four feet by twelve, ^ ' and two feet thick ; these Futtafaihe inform- ed them were brought in double canoes from the Island of Lefooga. They arc coral ,. , , stone, and are hewn into a tolerably good ^ shape, both with respect to the straightness of their sides and the flatness of their surfaces. They are now so hardened by the weather, ^, ^ that the great difficulty they had in breaking ^ a specimen of one corner made it not easy to conjecture how the labour of hewing them at first had been effected ; as, by the marks of antiqu'ty which some of them bear, they must have br^en built long before Tasman showed the natives an iron tool. On the 7th of September weighed, and sailing from Tongataboo by the northern passage, passed close ^ the small islands of Honga Harpy and Honga Tonga. They had brisk gales and a hollow sea all the night ; ex- tensive reefs surrounded them. In viewing their situation from aloft it appeared very critical, and occasioned the island already to be called Danger Island. At daybreak, on tha 13th, bore away, and ran along ths north side of Sir Charles Middleton's Islands. At nine o'clock at night, no danger appearing, they thought themselves safe ; but were presently alarmed by the ship striking upon a coral reef, upon which the sea hardly broke, to give the leastwarning. All hands were upon deck in an instant^ and, as she stuck fast, became under great apprehensions of being ship- wrecked ; a misfortune which presented itself with a thousand frightful ideas. Judging it to be a weather reef, the moment she struck the sails were hove aback, and in about five or six minutes they beheld with joy that she came astern, and shortly after was quite afloat ; when they were again delivered from their fears, and found the ship, which had kept up- right the whole time, seemed to have received no injury. 16th. Observed at noon, in latitude 13 degrees 13 minutes south, and at five, P. M.,saw the Island of Rotumah, bearing north-west by west. At eight, A. M., on the 25th, saw land from the mast-head bearing north-west by north, and immediately steered for it. About five o'clock in the eve- ning, as they drew near to the land, found that it consisted of ten or eleven separate islands, two or three of which were of considerable size, and saw a canoe coming toward them, in which were two men ; they approached within hail, but would come no nearer. The largest of this group they named Disappointment Island, and the whole cluster DufTs Group. On the following day again saw land in the south-west quarter, and steered for it, which proved to be Swallow Island nnd Volcano Island ; and farther to the south-west they could discern Egmont Island ; all these were discovered by Captain Carteret. On the MISSIONARY VoYAGii. 3t3 26th of October came in sight of a low island bearing west by north, and presently perceived some canoes coming toward them. Just at this time William Tucker and John Connelly were discovered swimming close under the stern, with a view to make their escape lo the canoes, and by their ckulking appeared afraid of being fired at ; but the captain, enraged at the former for his ingi'atitude and deceit, and willing to part with the latter, told them, that if they chose to go they might, fdr he would not fire at them. Connelly answered, "Thank you, sir;" and ihey both swam to the canoes, and were received by the savages with great shoutings. Soon after, a breeze springing up from the northeast, ihey resumed their course and left them behind. Connelly was brought by force from Tongataboo for threatening the missionaries. They did not imagine a third person could be found willing to follow their example ; but such is the prevalence of habit and the enervating infiuence of idleness over the mind, that Andrew Cornelius Lind came to the captain, and begged earnestly to be set on shore upon the next island they should discover. To this request not only consent was given, but likewise a promise to let him have a se* Section of useful articles wherewith to benefit the natives, and the better to introduce and give him importance among thom. 26th. At midnight they saw another island, and as the day broke shortly after, counted six of these low islands ; and soon had a great number of canoes about the ship, into one of which Andrew, after taking leave of his shipmates, went, and was received with joy by the savages. 27th. About ten, A. M., came in sight of another low island. About four, A. M., next day, discovered other islands. About this time it fell calm, which continued ; and at daybreak counted six, which might, from their size, merit the name of islands, and seven isles or keys ; to the whole of which they gave the name of the Thirteen Islands. To visit the Pelew Islands being their next object, they accordingly shaped a course thither, but had rather a tedious passage of nine days, owing to light and variable winds. On the 6th, when it became more settled, got sight of the land, bearing west-south-west, distant ten or eleven leagues. When they hove-to they were opposite to the southern part of the dis- trict of Artingall. Two hundred persons or more were collected upon the beach, and presently about a dozen canoes were seen upon the water, some of which were under sail, and others paddling ; but as the weather at this time wore a most gloomy aspect, three of them only came far enough off to get alongside. This was all the intercourse they had with the Pelew islanders, a circumstance much regretted by them, as it had all along been the captain's intention to stay here a few days, for the purpose of learning what they could of the inhabitants respecting the expediency of settling a mission among them, and to prepare the way for missiona- ries, by distributing some useful articles retained in the ship. November 21st. At ten o'clock, A. M., passed between the Grand Lemma and Potoy, and leaving all the islands, except Lingting, to the south, sailed through with a fine easterly breeze. At three, P. M., came in sight of Macao, and at half-past four anchored in the road, the town bearing west two leagues. January 2d. Three English men-of-war and seven of the Bombay cotton ships were at anchor, waiting for the Duff to sail with them. Everything relative to the fleet's departure being arranged, and the ships in readi- ness, early on the 5th they put to sea. On the 10th passed Pulo Sapata, and continuing their course, at two, A. M., on the 16th, canle-to with the small bower in Malacca road. On the 20th sailed with the fleet. The 33 S71 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 16th of March, in the morning, made the Cape Land, and fell in with two transports froai Amboyna. At night hove-to, and waited for day to run for Table Bay. In a few days they had got what water and stock were wanted, but it was not until the 1st of April that the signal for sail- ing was made, and they pat to sea, with the addition of the transport Bellona to their fleet. On the 23d of June saw the coast of Ireland, west of Kinsale. On the 8th of July passed the Downs; on the llth came to anchor in the River Thames, and in a few days discharged their cargo of tea, which was landed in as perfect order as they received it ia China. CAPTAIN D'ENTRECASTEAUX.— 1791-93. On September 28th, 1791, in the two sloops. La Recherche and L'Es- perance, of sixteen guns and 110 men each, they weighed from the har- bour of Brest, completely equipped for a voyage of circumnavigating the globe. The government had previously sent on board a number of gen- tlemen, versed in astronomy, natural history, botany, painting. &c , and had provided an apparatus of astronomical instruments, marine time- pieces ; in fine, every article that appeared likely to render the expedi- tion subservient to the purposes of science. The conduct of the expedi- tion was assigned to Captain D'Enirecasteaux. The leading object of the voyage was to endeavour to procure intelligence relative to Captain La Perouse, who had long been missing in the South Seas, and to make a complete tour of New Holland, an island by far the largest in the world, comprehending an immense circuit of at least 5000 (French) leagues. The accomplishment of this last point was essential to the history of geography, and what had not been effected by either Cook or La Perouse. The first port they made was Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe ; they arrived thereon the 17th of October, and, having taken in wines and provisions, proceeded on their route to the Cape of Good Hope ; and while they con- tinued there, the expedition sustained a considerable misfortune in the death of the astronomer Bertrand. February 16th, 1792, they left the Cape, and bore away for the Island of New Guinea, some parts of which they explored ; they reached the Islands Arsacides on July the 9th, and New Ireland the 17th. They afterward made for x\mboyna, one of the Molucca Islands, and arrived September Gth. October llth. They left Amboyna, and sailed immediately for the west part of New Holland, along which they intended to coast, as being the least known, and then to proceed along the southern shore ; they were always driven back, however, by east and south-east winds, and this part of the enterprise was consequently frustrated. December 3d, 1792, they arrived at the cape which is at the south- west extremity of New Holland, and sailed along the southern shore till January 3d, having by this means traced and ascertained about two-thirds of the whole extent of the southern coast. In consequence of the want of water and the prevalence of high south-easterly winds, they bore away for the Cape de Diernes, the south-east extremity of this extensive island. In this part of the southern coast they observed a number of bold and noble harbours. After a delay here of three weeks, they shaped a course for New Zealand, and afterward for the Friendly Islands. On the llth of March they passed very near the North Cape of New Zealand, and making for the shore, several canoes came alongside, D^ENTRECASTEAUi. 875 They procured a number of ornaments from the savages, and parting from them reluctantly, continued their route. On the 16th they discovered two small islands at a little distance from each other. The most eastern one lies in 30 degrees 17 minutes south latitude, and in 179 degrees 41 minutes east longitude. On the 17th discovered an island about five leagues in circumference, conspicuous by its elevated situation. It lies in 29 degrees 3 minutes south latitude, and in 179 degrees 54 minutes east longitude. On the 2d of March they saw Eboua, the most south-westerly of the Friendly Islands. The next day arxchored at Tongataboo, the largest of the Frendly Islands. A multitude of canoes crowded about them, and the beach was soon covered with the natives, who welcomed their arrival by every possible expression of joy. This satisfaction was sometimes interrupted by the imprudence of somo of their people, and sometimes by the excessive curiosity of the islanders, to see and possess everything that was European. After a tedious voy- age, which had often forced them to put into uninhabited places, how grateful was the satisfaction they experienced to find themselves so hos- pitably entertained by a people among whom civilization is already con- siderably advanced. Among these islanders they frequently meet with men six feet high, their limbs shaped in the most comely proportion. The fertility of the soil, which exempted them from the necessity of extreme labour, may conduce not a little to the unusual perfection of their forms. Their features have a strong resemblanca to those of Europeans. A burning sky has impressed a slight discolour on their skins. Tnose among the women who are but little exposed to the rays of the sun, are sufficiently fair. Some of them are distinguished by a beautiful carnation, which gives a vivacity to their whole figure. A thousand nameless graces arc visible in their gestures, when engaged in the slightest employments. In the dance their movements are enchanting. The language of this people bears an analogy with the gentleness of their manners ; it is well adapted to music, for which they have a pecu- liar taste. Their concerts, wherein every one performs his part, demon- strate the just ideas which they entertain of harmony. The women, as well as the men, have their shoulders and breasts naked. A cotton cloth, or rather a piece of stuff manufactured with the bark of mulberry tree into paper, serves them for apparel. It forms a beautiful draper}', reach- ing from a little above the waist down to the feet. The art of pottery has made some progress among them. They saw several vases of potter's earth, tolerably well baked, in which they preserved their water ; these vases are manufactured in an island named Seidgy, lying, according to the best accounts they could gather, about one hundred leagues north of the place where they were to anchor. These islands produce a species of nutmegs, which differ very little in form from those of the Moluccas. They are, however, aromatic, and almost twice as large. They collected in the island a number of objects which may prove useful for the study of natural history. They also procured the bread fruit tree, for the purpose of transporting it into the West India Islands ; they were obliged to leave it, however, at Sourabaya, in the Island of Java. At their departure from thence they took a receipt from La liaye, the Dutch gardener there, for eleven young plants of this invaluable tree, and as many roots and {stocks, all in prime condition, which they had brought away from the Friendly Islands, after having had them nearly eleven months in their possession. The roots and plants together amount to twenty-two, all in high jtroservation ; and as the tree grows very rapidly, this quantity will 3f6 VdVAGES ROtlND THE WORLi) suffice to replenish the islands with them in six or eight years time. They A^ere at Jarnarang, in the Island of Java, on the 20th of March, 1795. They must not confound these excellent species of bread fruit tree with the wild species of it found in the Moluccas, and observed for a long time past in the Isle of France. In this second sort the grains do not mis- carry, while in the gocd fruit tree they are replaced by a food truly deli- cious, when baked under ashes or in the oven. In other respects it is a most wholesome viaud, affording a pleasant repast during the v^hole time of their continuance on this island, and for which they willingly relin- quished the ship's stock of baker's bread. The Molucca sort produces thirty or forty small fruits ; while every tree of the Friendly Islands nroduces three or four hundred extremely large, of an oval form, the greatest diameter being from nine to ten inches, and the smallest from seven to eight. A tree would be oppressed with such an enormous load if the fruit were to ripen ail at once ; but sagacious nature has so ordered it, that the fruit succeed each other, during eight months of the year, thus providing the nations v/iih a food equally salubrious and plentiful. Every tree occupies a circular space of about thirty feet diameter. A single acre occupied by this vegetable would supply the wants of a number of families. Nothing in nature exhibits a similar fecundity. As it produces no seeds, it has a wonderful faculty of throwing out suckers ; and its roots frequently force their way up to the surface of the earth, and there give birth to fresh plants. It thrives exceedingly in a tropical climate, in a soil somewhat elevated above the level of the sea ; and suits very well with a marly soil in which a mixture of argillaceous clay prepon- derates. They quitted the Friendly Islands on the 10th of April, 1793. The next day observed a small island named Tortoise April 15, saw Errouan," the most eastern of the islands of the archipelago of the Holy Ghost, and afterward that of Anatom. The eruptions of the volcano of Tana pre- sented in the night a spectacle truly sublime. April 27th, steering for New Caladonia, in a night darker than usual, they ran among some islands surrounded with breakers, not noticed till then by navigators ; they were only apprized of danger by an uncommon circumstance, the flight of a flock of sea-fowl over their heads about three o'clock in the morning. This indication of the proximity of land induced the officer upon watch to slacken sail, and lie-to, at a critical juncture, when an hour's more sailing must have dashed them to pieces against the rocks. These new-discovered islands lie about thirty leagues north-east of New Caledonia, where they anchored April 26th. y\fter the description that Cook and Forster have given of the inhabi* tants of New Zealand, they expected to find realized the advantageous portrait given of them by those celebrated voyagers. They had reason^ however, partly to suspend their belief of those accounts, when they af- terward observed a number of human bones broiled, which the savages were devouring, eagerly fastening on the smallest tendonous parts which adhere to them. This fact at least suffices to prove that the New Zea- landers are cannibals. They often attacked their boat ; but the good countenance exhibited prevented their assailing or massacring any of their company. Notwithstanding these hostilities, the ship was every day visited by numeious bodies of the islanders. The soil being every- where barren, they |)erceived but few vestiges of any taste for agriculture j still, however, they observed in some gardens the Colocasia, the Caribbe cabbage, the banana tree, and the sugar-cane. The cocoa tree bear* D ENTRECASTEAUX. 377 but very diminutive fruit, the water of which is far from being pleasant. The baibarous customs of the natives did not prevent their reiteiated excursions into the interior parts of the country. On these occasions they kept together to the number of twenty, always well armed. As evening came on, they commonly took their station on some elevated post in thq mountains, where they passed the night in a situation which protected them from hostile assualts. To guard against surprise, they kept watch by turns. Observations made for twenty days together in this extensive region, of which Forster had but a ghmpse, (being sick all the eight days of his being off the island,) furnished them with a variety of novel materials, es- pecially in the vegetable kingdom. On the sixth of May they lost Citizen Huon, captain of the Espewnce. He had been for some time before afflicted with an incurable marasmus. They buried him in Obser- vation Island. May 9th, they weighed anchor, and sailed before the wind for the north. In their course observed the eastern part of the reefs and islands, the western side of which they saw the year before. May 21st, were close on the Island of St. Croix, and sent in two boats to look out f^or an anchoring place. While the sailors were employed in sounding, one of the natives, at a distance of upward of eighty paces, lanced an arrow, which slightly wounded the forehead of one of them. A volley of fire-arms, however, soon dispersed the group of canoes which had surrounded the boats, and from which the lance proceeded. Although the wound was apparently inconsiderable, it was attended with a te- tanus, which proved mortal to the unfortunate sailor after only eight days. The arrow did not appear to have been poisoned, as it is well known that beasts pierced with the same weapons do not experience any fatal symptoms. In India it is no uncommon thing to see the slightest puncture followed by a spasm, which is a certain forerunner of death. After this they proceeded to visit the Arsacides Islands and that part of Louisiade which Bougainville did not explgre, the northern part of which is very difficult of access. They anchored after this near some very lofty mountains on the south-east co^st of New Guinea. After having passed through Dampier's Straits, they discovered the northern side of New Britain.* July 16th and 17th, they sailed in view of the Anchoret Islands of Bougainville. On the 20th they lost D'Entrecasteaux, the captain. He died of convulsions, every fit of which w^s succeeded by a speech- less stupor. After having taken some notice of Traitor's Islands and part of the elevated lands of New Guinea, they anchored at Waigiore. Augest 16th, 1793, in 129 degrees 14 minutes of east longitude, and so near the equator that they were only half a minute to the south. Here the inhabitants brought very large sea-tuitles, the soup of which tney experienced to be a salutary remedy for the scurvy, which was now prevalent among them. In this island they procured a number of inte- resting objects, and quitted it August the 29th, and sailed for Bouwo, where they anchored September the 3d, 1793. In this mountainous isle, where the productions of nature are extremely varied, they had a favour- ♦ The whole extent of this navigation is extremely dangerous : for a length of twelve hundred leagues (French) a line of rocks or breakers, nearly level with the water, runs adong the bottom of the sea. In this route it is proba- ble that the unfortunate La Perouse perished, unless, as was supposed at the time, his vessel foundered in the dreadful tempest of December 31, 1788. 32* 378 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. able opportunity of continuing their botanical researches, &c. They passed through Button's Straits, fronri September 23d to October 9th, frequently coming to anchor and going ashore for the sake of enlarging their collections. Here several of the men died of a contagious bilious dysentery, contracted in the low marshy grounds of this country. October 28th, 1793, cast anchor in the road of Soarabaya, in the Isle of Java. Here divisions broke out among the crews, in consequence of gaining intelligence of the farther progress of the French revolution. D'Auribeau hoisted the white flag February 19th, 1794, and surrendered the two vessels to the Dutch. He also seized all the journals, charts, and memoirs, which were connected with the voyage, and arrested all those of the ships' companies that were obnoxious to his own political sentiments. One journal, however, was fortunately saved, by having been stowed in a box of tea. In this hazardous, yet important, voyage, of 215 persons thirty-six lost their lives ; the astronomer, Pearson, died at Java ; and Ventcnat at the Isle of France. Riche, the naturalist, remained at Java, as well as Billadiere. Lahay, the botanist, also stopped there ; having under his care the bread fruit trees brought from the Friendly Islands. Piron, the painter, tarried with the governor of Sourabaya ; but after- ward returned to Europe, and published an account of the voyage. MR. JOHN TURNBULL.— 1800-1804. While second officer in the Barwell, in her last voyage to China, in 1799, the first officer of that ship (Mr. John Buyers) and Mr. TurnbuU had every reason to suppose, from actual observation, that the Americans carried on a most lucrative trade to the north-west of that vast continent. Strongly impressed with this persuasion, they resolved, on their return home, to represent it to some gentleman of well-known mercantile entei- prise. They approved of the speculation, and lost no time in preparing for its execution. A new ship, called the Margaret, mounting ten carriage guns, with two swivels, and a proportionate quantity of small arms, and built wholly of British oak, was at length purchased, and the command given to Mr. Buyers, while the cargo and trading part were intrusted to Mr. Turnbull. They proceeded to Portsmouth in the latter end of May, 1800; and having here joined the Active frigate and the East India fleet, proceeded on their voyage. 0:i the 17th of July had sight of the Island of Ma- deira ; but the commodore abandoning all hopes of reaching Funchal roads before dark, continued under sail till eight, P. M., and then hove-to, with the ship's head to the north-east, tacking occasionally till the morn- ing. At daylight made sail, and run between the Desertas and the island ; and the morning being fine and clear, and the island at not more than six or seven miles distance, had a full and advantageous view of it. Fun- chal, the largest and most populous town of the island, is most beautifully situated on the south side of the declivity of a hill facing the sea; the houses rising gradually above each other, till they reach the summit of the first range of hills, where the prospect is bounded by another range, planted with vines and fruit trees, and adorned with country houses and gardens. The peculiar excellence of the wines is in a great degree oc- casioned by the care taken in selecting the largest and best grapes for that of the first quality ; the next best for the second quality. Some of these grapes are as large as an English plumb. The wine of the JOHN TURNBULL. 379 first quality, called Madeira Malmsey, is made from a vine imported by one of the Portuguese princes from Candia. A very small quantity of this wine is made, and it is of course monopolized for the best houses. The next sort is what is ordinarily drank in London for Madeira. The price of Malmsey, in 1811, was as high as £80 per pipe. London par- ticular £60 ; and London Madeira £40. The wines of inferior quality are generally used by the populace. The anchorage lies about one mile and a quarter from a high rock, separated from the main ocean by a narrow channel of from forty to fifty yards wide, called the Loo or Lee rock, which is fortified so as to defend both the town and shipping in the bay against any sudden attempt or surprise from an enemy. This island is reckoned at about thirty-seven miles in length by eleven in breadth ; and, according to the latest estimate, its population may amount to 65,000 inhabitants, of which the town of Funchal, the capital, forms one-fifth. Leaving Madeira in the evening, at sunrise on the morning of the 23d saw the Island of Palma, one of the Canaries, or Fortunate Islands, bearing south-west. During the farther progress of their voyage they were so hampered by the southerly winds, and a current setting on the American coast, as to have approached within two degrees and a half of the coast of Brazil ; and the vessel being new, and therefore unseasoned, was in a very leaky state. These circumstances induced them to bear up for St. Salvador, that the vessel might have the necessary repairs previous to entering into high latitudes. This city is large and populous, and appears divided by. nature into an upper and lower town. The upper is seated on the summit of an eminence ; it commands an uninterrupted view of the bay and harbour of All-Saints, the sea and clouds alono terminating the boundless prospect. It is the seat of the viceroy, the civil and military officers, and principal merchants ; while the lower town, which contains the wharfs, store-houses, and custom-house, is, for the most part, occupied by inhabitants of the inferior order, retail tradesmen, adventurers, and persons following mechanical trades. The houses have lattice-windows and balconies ; but the streets in many parts of the town are so narrow, that two neighbours in opposite balconies might almost shake hands. The population is estimated at from 90 to 100,000. The inhabitants may be classed into three divisions, whites, mulattoes, and blacks, of which the latter is by somewhat the largest. In the dock-yard a ship of 64 guns, named the Principe de Brazil, was on the stocks ; it was built of the country wood, a wood of a species of Indian teek, and undoubtedly much stronger than any European oak. The iron, pitch, and tar, are understood to have been brought from Lis- bon, the policy of the parent-country requiring everythhig wrought or manufactured to be imported from thence. Tnis yard, from its commo- diousness, and still more from its capabilities of farther improvement and enlargement, attracted much attention. It is a large square area of ground, immediately fronting the water, enclosed on all sides ; and its internal arrangements and accommodations are on a scale of magnitude and con- venience which would not disgrace a similar establishment in Europe. There are houses, apartments, and lodgings, for all the superior and under officers ; the intendant of marine and master-builders have respectable accommodations, and the blacksmith and other handicraftsmen are com- fortably provided. On quitting this harbour they gave chase to every sail that came in sight ; but, though they brought-to several, they all proved Portuguese 380 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. On the 7th of November, at noon, they saw the land about the Cape of Good Hope, bearing east by south, distant five or six leagues. At noon brought the ship to an anchor in Table Bay, Cape Town bearing wesl- south-west, distant half a mile. Their stay at the cape had now been near a mopth, and it was necessary to obey the calls of business, and proceed on the voyage. They accordingly took an affectionate leave of their friends on the evening of the 7th of December, 1800. For the first ten days after leaving the cape had, with some little varia- tion, fair winds aud moderate weather ; but at midnight, on the 18th, being in latitude 40 degrees 14 minutes, longitude 35 degrees 40 minutes, they experienced a very strong gale of wind, accompanied with showers of sleet and hail-stones, from the west. At eight o'clock, on the 27th, the column on the south head, which points out the entrance to Port Jack- son, bore north and by west, distant half a mile. At this place is station- ed a corporal and party, for the purpose of communicating, by signal, the intelligence of the arrival of any vessel to the colonists of Sydney, whoso distance from this is between six and seven miles. A pilot, in general, IS in attendance here. At nine brought up in Neutral Bay, a place ap- pointed by the port regulations for ships to anchor in previous to their entrance into Sydney Cove, and to make their report to the governor. At half-past two got under weight, and at half-past three came to an anchor in this most beautiful bason of water, in seven fathoms, in most excellent holding ground, and within half a pistol-shot of the shore, with- out one sick person on board. The captain and Mr. Turnbull agreed that the latter should continue at Port Jackson to dispose of the cargo in the best manner possible, while the former should proceed in the vessel upon the north-west speculation, which he did on the 9th of iVlarch, 1801. The town of Sydney, the capital of the colony and the seat of the government, is divided into two parts by a river, which empties itself into a cove named after the town. Sydney Cove has thus a double advan- tage, that of being well and plentifully provided with excellent water, a)id at the same time possessing a harbour which might contain with ease all the royal navy of Great Britain. These twofold advantages rendered it much more eligible than Botany Bay, the original destination. The police of the colony is invested in the magistrates, who are ap- pointed by the governor, one or more to each principal district. Under them, in every district, is a head and petty constable, and for the better preservation of order, a certain number of watchmen, where the circum- stances seem to require it. The celebrated George Barrington held the office of high-constable of Paramatta for many years, and in the faithful and vigorous discharge of his duty acquitted himself much to the satis- faction of the government. But he was now a mere living skeleton ; he was emaciated, and apparently in the last stage of human life. Having absolutely lost the use of his intellectual faculties, he had retired on a small pension allowed him for former services, a melancholy instance of abused talents, and the force of remorse and conscious sensibility operating on a mind capable of better things. This extraordinary character finished his course on the 28th of December, 1804, The land in the neighbourhood of Sydney, to the extent of eight or ten miles to the westward, is, with some exceptions, a light mould mixed with sand : about Paramatta it becomes somewhat deeper, and mixed with clay, but seldom produces more than from twelve to fourteen bushels per acre. In the town of Paramatta the governor had a large commodious house, and several officers of the civil establishment reside here ; in this JOHN TURNBULL. 381 place also are good military barracks, erected for a detachment of sixty- men. There are few free people residing here ; the greater part of the inhabitants are convicts, who keep in cultivation some adjacent lands be* longing to the crown. About twenty miles west of Paramatta is the Hawkesbury settlement ; and on the road, about four miles from Paramatta, lies Toungabie, a set- tlement where the government keep their principal flocks of sheep and cattle, and a number of convicts for the cultivation of about four hundred acres of land belonging to the crown, producing at an average twenty bi.S'hels per acre. From this place are roads leading to Pennant hill, Berkham hill, and Castle hilJ, districts containing tracts of tolerably good land. The Hawkesbury settlement is fully six miles long ; the governor has a cottage here, and there is a good barrack for a small detachment of troops ; the farms are situated on each side of the river, which is capable of admitting vessels of 200 tons up to the governor's cottage, a distance from the sea of about forty miles ; but, by the windings and turnings of the river, is up- ward of 120. The banks of this river are composed of a rich black mould, from eight to ten or twelve feet deep ; this, however, only extends within a few chains of the ^ed of the river, and appears to have been formed from its frequent im Nidations. Beyond this the country around appears to be a stiff land, composed of sand, earth, and clay, and improves much by cultivation. Higher up the river is the settlement of Richmond hill, where the land appears the same, but subject to the same incon- venience of inundation. On the head of a creek arishig out of Botany Bay, and terminating in a small river named George's River, and about eight miles from Paramatta, are several farms yielding from fourteen to eighteen bushels per acre. The aboriginal inhabitants of this distant region are indeed beyond comparison the most barbarous on the surface of the globe. The resi- dence of Europeans has here been wholly ineffectual ; the natives are still in the state as at our first settlement. Their mimicking the oddities, dress, walk, gait, and looks, of all the Europeans whom they have seen, from the time of Governor Phillips downward, is so exact, as to be a kind of historic register of their several actions and characters. Governor PhilHps and Colonel Gross they imitate to the life. And to this day, if there be anything pecuhar in any of our countrymen, officers in the corps, or even in the convicts ; any cast of the eye, or hcbble in the gait ; any trip or strut, stammering or thick speaking, they catch it in a moment, and re- present it in a manner which renders it impossible not to recognise the original. They are moreover great proficients in the language and New- gate slang of the convicts ; and, in case of any quarrel, are by no mt^ans unequal to them in the exchange of abuse. Their principal subsistence is drawn from the sea and rivers, the grand store-house of nature in all the lands and islands of the Pacific. When a dead whale is cast on shore, they live sumptuously, flocking to it in great numbers, and seldom leaving it till the bones are well picked. Their substitute for bread is a species of root, something resembling the fern ; it is roasted, and pounded between two stones, and being thus mixed with fish, &c., constitutes the chief part of their food. They have oysters of an extraordinary size, three being sufficient for any ordinary man. The rocks are covered with others of a smaller size, and which may be had for the trouble of carriage and the labour of knocking them off. They are by no moDnr deficient in personal courage ; in their pitched 382 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Dattles, of one part of the country against the other, or one individual against another, they display the most determined bravery. They defend themselves against the spears of their assailants by opposing only a shield of thick bark ; previous to their onset they join in a kind of song, and gradually increase their noise till they work themselves up into a frantic fury, their countenances being in the meantime convulsed, and every feature of their face expressive of the fire of their mind. One of their chiefs, Bennelong, a warrior of great repute, it is said, vras caught by a very singular expedient : having taken a liking to a sailor's jacket, it was offered to him without hesitation, and a sailor or- dered to assist him in putting it on ; the fellow obeyed, and by putting the back of the jacket in front, contrived to hamper the arms, and thus effectually secured the sturdy savage. While he was in England, he was presented to many of the principal nobility and first families of the kingdom, and received numerous presents of clothes and other articles, which a savage of any other country would have deemed inestimable. It was not so, however, with Bennelong ; he was no sooner relanded in his own country than he forgot, or at least laid aside, all the ornaments and improvements he had reaped from his travels, and returned, as if with increased relish, to all his former loath- some and savage habits. His clothes were thrown away, as burthensome restraints on the freedom of his limbs, and he became again as complete a New Hollander as if he had never left his native wilds. Having before sent a small adventure to Norfolk Island, Mr. TurnbuU resolved to give it a trial in person, and left Sydney for that purpose on the 25th of August, 1801. In point of climate the situation of this island is delightful and salu- brious ; the latitude is 29 degrees, and therefore the general state of the weather is seldom in extremes, neither intolerably hot nor excessively cold. Without the aid of any manure the soil yields two harvests in the same year : the first is of wheat, which, being sown in April or the be- ginning of May, is usually reaped in October ; the ground is then turned up afresh, and planted with maize, which is ready for pulling against the next seed-time. He was moreover informed, that many of the farmers have practiced this course of cropping for a long series of years, and without having experienced any diminution in the productive powers of the soil. The ordinary price of pork here is sixpence per pound, dead, or four- pence, alive ; but if the payment is made in spirits, it may be obtained for half that sum ; for government very wisely having prohibited any distilla- tion, the settlers will purchase spirits at almost any price. Wheat is eight shillings per bushel ; maize, four ; Indian meal, five shillings ; po- tatoes, about six shillings and sixpence ; onions, from eight to ten shil- lings per hundred weight ; a fowl, eighteen pence, and a goose from five to six shillings. The quantity of land hitherto granted by the crown to a settler is nearly as follows : twenty-five acres to a convict who.se time is expired, and allowed to settle ; thirty to a private soldier ; and fifty to a non-commissioned officer. These grants, however, are not made in- discriminately ; they are given only to such as have recommended them- selves by the sobriety and decorum of their general deportment, and are seldom obtained without the interest and recommendation of the superin- tending officers. Adjacent to Norfolk Island are two smaller islands, known by the names of Phillip and Nepean Islands, the former about half the size o JOHN TURNBULL. 383 Norfolk Island, and situated about six or seven miles to the south of it ; wholly uncultivated, but abundant in herbage. That it might be rendered as useful as possible to the government, several hogs were turned loose, in the expectation that, in the process of time, they would multiply so as to form a convenient stock. It does not, however, appear that the event of this first experiment justified the expectation. Left Norfolk Island on the 9th of August, 1802, with a fair wind, which continued for about a week, during which time they had proceeded as far to the eastward as the longitude of 179 degrees west. On the 23d of September made the small Island of Maitia, situated about a degree to the eastward of Otaheite, the sovereignty of which it acknow- ledges. Continuing their course during the night, with a moderate breeze, found themselves by daylight under the Island of Otaheite. The natives having already discovered the vessel, were assembled in great numbers on the reefs which extend along the shore, viewing the ship, as it passed along, with the most attentive curiosity, the island exhibiting an appearance equally beautiful and picturesque. At half-past ten, on the morning of the 24th of September, 1803, anchored in Matavai Bay, situated in the latitude of 17 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude 149 degrees 36 minutes west. As soon as the vessel wais anchored they were visited by the master ot the Porpoise, lying there, who gave an account of a very destructive war which, for a considerable time, had prevailed in the island, said to be ex- cited by the oppressive and tyrannical government of the family of Pomar- rey. During this conversation, some of the missionaries settled in Ota- heite came olf to congratulate them on their arrival, with Captain House, formerly commander of the Norfolk, which had been wrecked there, and u Mr. Lewin, a landscape painter, sent hither from Botany Bay, for the purpose of taking views and making drawings of objects in this island. These gentlemen confirmed the account of the war in the country, and the general dearth in consequence of its ravages. The King Otoo, with his concert Tetua, came alongside in separate canoes, both dressed in their tcboota, a dress appropriated for the use of the royal family and females of the first distinction. This part of dress is merely an oblong piece of cloth, having an opening in the middle, to be passed over the head, and hanging down before and behind, but open at the sides, allowing the wearer to move with great freedom. The queen had besides a piece of country cloth wrapped round her waist, and her hair dressed with a sort of bonnet made of the leaves of the cocoa tre-3. She appeared to be about twenty-four years of age, with good feature^}, and in size above the ordinary standard of British ladies : she was em- ployed in the humble office of bailing the water out of her canoe. She and Otoo were cousins, and her sister was married to Terenaveroa, King of Tiarrabou, Otoe's brother ; following the patriarchal system in this respect, of marrying their nearest relations. This lady, at their first in- terview, was somewhat reserved ; but, upon better acquaintance, became more familiar. The king appeared in his tcboota and marra, this last being a narrow piece of cloth passing between the legs and round the middle, with the ends foUded inward ; these two articles constitute a com- plete Otaheitean dress. The king being very desirous to obtain some of their ava, that is, spi- rituous hquors, they gratified him with a small quantity in the shell of a cocoa nut, which was handed down to him in his, canoe. On receiving 384 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD the present he said aloud, my ty te lata, my ty te pahia — very good men, very good ship ; and with this compliment in his mouth, took his leave to pay a similar visit, and with a similar purpose, to the Porpoise. They afterward learned that his majesty was somewhat too much addicted to the use of such liquors, and that he would go any length to procure them. His father, Pomarrey, had not yet returned from the expedition against his enemies in another part of the island. It may be necessary here to observe, that, by the laws of Otaheite, the son, immediately on his birth, succeeds to the dignity of his father, the father from that instant be- coming only administrator for his child, Otoo, therefore, was king ; and Pomarrey, his father, regent. About this time the king's mother, Edeah, appeared alongside in a canoe, attended by her favourite, a chief of the Island Huaheine, a man of most savage figure and manners. This lady had for come years been separated from her husband, Pomarrey ; but had not on this account suiTered any diminution of power or respect in the country. These two personages came on board the ship with their characteristic frankness, and were treated with all possible attention, having learned from the gentlemen of the mission that Edeah still enjoyed such influence in the state, that her favour might be essentially useful, as they had everything to fear from her resentment. No pains, therefore, were spared to gain her good will ; she and her favourite chief were conducted to the cabin, and there entertained with grog, tobacco, &c., &c. Several presents were offered her, on which she seemed to set very little value ; but ex- pressed great eagerness to possess a poo pucy, or musket. This queen dowager and her paramour continued to drink and interchange tobacco till they were nearly incapable of leaving the ship, each appearing to be equally delighted with tlieir entertainment. The attendant was so well pleased, that, on taking leave, he urged Mr. TurnbuU to accept him as a tayo, or inUmate friend, a civility he declined in the way least hkely to give umbrage. Pomarrey having by this time heard of their arrival, hastened to wel- come them to his country, doubtless in the hope of receiving his share of the presents. His approach, with two canoes, was conducted with many formalities. When he came alongside he ordered his arrival to be an- nounced in due form, and refused to come on board until they were all in readiness to receive him with due respect. On entering the ship he presented to Mr. TurnbuU a plantain leaf, the Otaheitean token of peace and friendship, and behaved on the whole with much affability, mingled with a certain feeling of his former dignified rank. Mr. TurnbuU was particularly distinguished by Pomarrey, who em- braced him in the country fashion, that is, by touching noses ; after which, Pomarrey squeezed him gently all over the body, and swaddled him up in a quantity of cloth, so that he could with difficulty move his limbs, being literally musket-proof. Pomarrey informed him that this was the practice in his country in making a tayo or friend, at the same time giving his own name to his newly-adopted tayo, whose name he took to himself in exchange. Pomarrey was not less than six feet four inches in height, remarkably stout and well-proportioned. His son Otoo is upward of six feet two inches high, and equally well-built Ih the train of followers was a dwarf, only thirty-nine inches high, full- grown, and duly proportioned in every respect, his age between twenty- three and twenty-four. On the day following they received another visit from the greater pari JOHN TlTRNBULL 385 of the royal family, so that it became necessary to distribute presents, in order to secure the good understanding already begun. Nothing was so acceptable to them as fire-arms, for they considered everything else as useless trifles. They accordingly gave to Pomarrey a blunderbuss, with which he seemed to be much delighted ; and to his son, the reigning King Otoo, who lay a little off from the ship in his canoe, they offered a musket. This distribution was not, however, relished by Otoo : being now a greater man than his father, he insisted on his right to the blun- derbuss, and Pomarrey was compelled to content himself with a musket. A fresh difficulty arose in making an acceptable present to the queen dowager, Edeah. Whatever was offered to her, cloth, looking-glasses, scissors, even axes, she rejected with disdain, making them understand that she was as capable as any man in the country of making use of fire- arms. They had indeed been informed that she was not less expert as a warrior than as a politician ; and that her resentment was much more to be dreaded than that of her late husband, Pomarrey. They therefore explained that the articles presented to her were such as would have been eagerly preferred by their countrywomen ; and concluded by giving her a musket. It has already been mentioned that a ruinous war had lately prevailed in Otaheite. This, as far as could be learned by the Europeans resident on the island, had been occasioned by an unusual oppression of the several members of the royal family, and particularly by the son of Pomarrey, the young King Otoo, who, it was reported, set no bounds to his haughty, domineering disposition. His administration has at all times given extreme offence to the inhabitants of the district of Atahourou, who considered him only as an usurper, and were constantly disposed to resist his measures and to throw off his yoke. In this war the missionaries had converted their dwelling-house at that place into a sort of fortress, having procured the guns of the Norfolk, which, as already mentioned, had been wrecked on the shore. With these guns being planted on the upper story of the house, and having laid in a large supply of bread fruit, cocoa nuts, and other necessaries, they were able to withstand a more vigorous siege than that of the Atahourians. Happily for Pomarrey, the crew of the Norfolk, and other European residents in the island, in number about thirty, and all accustomed to the use of fire- arms, espoused his cause in this extremity. On this, indeed, as on former occasions, himself and family were solely indebted to his European allies. They now resolved to leave this island, and touch at that of Huaheine, to learn what supplies might be there procured. Leaving Otaheite on the following day, they arrived at Huaheine, after a run of nearly thirty leagues to the north-west. This harbour, Owharrow, is large, spacious, and perfectly safe from all winds, being defended by a reef of rocks, the natural barrier to most of the harbours in these seas. The low land next the water has a most beautiful appearance, abounding with bread fruit, cocoa nut, and other trees. The Island of Huaheine, in proportion to its magnitude, appeared far more abundant than Otaheite ; though in Huaheine, as in Otaheite, the whole hope and dependence of the islanders seemed to be in the fertility of that narrow slip or border of land which surrounds the whole island next to the water ; this border is common to most of the islands of the South Seas. Having made the necessary inquiries as to the chief object of the voyage, and finding that it would be but of little advantage to continue longer in Huaheine, they took leave of the friendly chiefs, and directed their course 33 386 VOYA&ES R0t7ND THE WORLD. for Ulietea, a much larger island, about eight leagues to the westward. The stature of the king here was not inferior to that of his brother sovereign, and he appeared equally flattered with the cause assigned for curiosity, that of gratifying their countrymen upon their return. But, though equalling Pomarrey in stature, he was less corpulent, and, in the general contour of his person, did not appear to possess the same portly dignity. His name was Tomaqua, and that of his queen Teenmonie. At Ulietea they were surprised by the appearance of one of their countrymen, a man of the name of Pulpit ; he came off with the king, and was accompanied by his wife, as he called her, an Otaheitean girl, of fourteen or fifteen years of age, dressed in a piece of black cloth of British manufacture, wrapped round her body by way of a, marra. After some hesitation, this young woman was allowed to come on board with her husband. The poor fellow was no sooner upon the deck than, with a wildness of look and gestures which evinced his sincerity, he uttered an impassioned excla- mation of gratitude to heaven, " that he had escaped out of the hands of these savage murderers." In answer to their demand of an explanation, he said, that, but a very short time before, himself and wife had been compelled to preserve their lives by flight, escaping with diflSculty from Huaheine to Ulietea ; that he had been landed in the former island by Mr. Bass, of the Venus, (the intrepid discoverer of the straits so named,) who, being a part owner and supercargo of this vessel, had, like themselves come to an over-stocked market at Port Jackson ; and, in order to make the most of a bad business, had entered into a contract with the govern- ment for supplying the settlement with a certain quantity of pork at a stated price ; and, in return for his voluntary service on board that ship, had received from the above-named gentleman such articles as he con- ceived might be useful to him on the island. Among these articles were a musket and a double barrelled gun, which so powerfully worked on the minds of the natives, that, finding all other means and artifices to get possession of them ineffectual, they at last resolved to murder him, and in that manner procure the whole of his little property. This, their hor- rible purpose, had been discovered to him by the Otaheitean girl, who understood the language, and overheard their consultations upon the subject. Rendered desperate by this information, he resolved to lose his life rather than suffer himself to be plundered of everything by which life, in such a situation, could be rendered supportable. He was, there- fore, continually on the watch against his foes, and was faithfully assisted by the young Otaheitean, who was well aware of the fate awaiting her in the event of her lover's murder. This course of life continued for some days, until being at last overpowered by incessant anxiety, watching, and fatigue, Pulpit was surprised by a party of natives, his property pillaged, his person seized, and led away as a sacrifice to some of their divinities. He was conducted about half a league from the spot, expecting every moment to be his last. The natives, however, began to dispute among themselves respecting the treatment he was to receive ; when an elderly woman, who seemed to possess much authority among them, and who had constantly opposed all sanguinary measures, threatened to leave the island if they persisted in their designs. Her remonstrances appeared to have great influence with the natives ; they therefore desisted from their project, and conducted him back to his former place of residence, which was now entirely stripped. Being an ingenious man, they made him pro- mise to repair some muskets belonging to themselves ; and having sup- JOHN TURNBULL. 387 plied him and the Otaheitean girl with some provisions, as a peace-offering, they withdrew. Pulpit now bent all his thoughts on making his escape ; and, an opportunity soon occurring, he availed himself of a dark night to seize one of their canoes, and, accompanied by his heroic wife, made the bes-t of his way to Ulietea. Here again, not finding himself comfortably situated with the islanders, he had taken the present opportunity to seek a refuge in their ship. From the account given by Pulpit of the inhabi- tants of Ulietea, they seemed to be much of the same character and natural habits with those in Huaheine ^ it was, therefore, impossible to prevail on him to return to the shore. '* Take me to the Sandwich Islands," said he, with the utmost earnestness, " or to any other place ; only leave me not here to be murdered." He was, therefore, suffered to remain on board, as well as the young female from Otaheite ; nor was it long before they had good reason to be satisfied that his unfavourable character of these islanders had neither originated in malice nor a disordered imagina- tion, both of which they had previously suspected might have influenced hirn in his narrative. In the night before the Margaret's intended departure from Ulietea, it was discovered that the followmg persons had deserted from the ship, viz., David Clark, an apprentice, Thomas Smith, a cooper by trade, Timothy Gauntey and William Andrews, seamen ; the last three were Botany Bay convicts, and had tempted to their party two Ota- heiteans, who had come with them from that island. This project had doubtless originated with some of the chiefs of the island, who had acted as tayos to one or other of the deserters. As soon as the discovery wag made, which was about two in the morning, Mr. Turnbull went singly on shore, to request the king to use his utmost authority to have the people restored. When he was informed what had happened, with a dissimulation worthy of a courtier, the king expressed the utmost surprise, accompanying it with a declaration, that the men had certainly not landed near them, nor been seen by them on shore. They had good reason, however, afterward to believe that the deserters were at that very time in the immediate neighbourhood. A whole day had been lost in this fruitless negotiation ; about half an hour past ten o'clock at night, Turnbull was roused from sleep by the voice of the captain, who then held the watch, exclaiming, "Turnbull, our ship is on shore — the ship is on shore." Jumping instantly out of bed, and running upon deck in his shirt, he found there was no wind to affect the ship ; and it being too dark to see the shore, sounded and found up- ward of twelve fathoms of depth, and no sensible motion of the ship or water. Examining the cables, he found them both lying slack on the deck, which confirmed still more the idea that the captain was mistaken ; but the seamen being commanded to haul the cables, the first pull brought the ends of both of them on board. It is impossible to describe the general sensation produced by this discovery, that their cables were cut, and they were drifting on shore. Another anchor, having an iron stock, was im- mediately ordered to be cleared away ; but such was the alarm and confu- sion, that it was not till after repeated trials they effected the stocking of it. It happened very providentially that there was not a breath of wind stirring, oiherwise the ship must have speedily gone to pieces, for she now lay with her broadside against a reef of coral rocks, the edges of which were as •harp as flints, having twelve fathoms of water on the outside. It was fortunate, m this distress, that, for some slight offence given by individuals .^f the crew, the natives had threatened to murder them 388 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. whenever an opportunity should offer itself. The apprehensions of these men were now extreme ; and by communicating their fears to the otlier seamen, and persuading them that one common lot awaited them without distinction, they united all hands in one effort of endeavouring to rescue the vessel from her present very perilous situation. Having bent the remaining part of one of the cables, about thirty fathoms, to the anchor, it was carried out in the long-boat to eighteen fathoms water, and the ship hauled seven or eight fathoms off from the reef. While this was doing, they suddenly heard a loud and clamorous noise among the natives on shore, and seemingly close under the ship's stern ; the wretches wurc rendered outrageous by the disappointment of their hopes, the ship being now visibly moved from the rocks. They had hitherto maintained a pro- found silence, in the expectation that her bulging would give the signal for the commencement of their plunder. They now began an assault with stones in such quantities and with such force that, in the hopes of intimidating them, the English were compelled to discharge some swivels and muskets over their heads. This, however, produced a volley of musketry from the natives stationed on different points of the shore. As daylight was now approaching, they hoped to be enabled to dis- lodge the enemy from their shelter, and menaced, in their turn, an effectual revenge ; of this, however, they appeared to entertain no appre- hension. The ship riding with her stern toward the shore, it became necessary to take every precaution for the defence of this vulnerable point ; and the swivels on the stern having been dismounted on the first fire, they brought up two great guns ; but, upon the approach of daylight, had the mortification to discover that the natives seemed to be but little afraid of what they could do against them. They were sufficiently ac- quainted with the use of guns to watch the motions on board, and when ready to fire, they suddenly skulked behind the rocks or trees along the shore, so that their fire only wasted the stock of ammunition, and, instead of removing their enemies, seemed rather to encourage their attacks. So intent were they on the destruction of the vessel, that such of the natives as had no fire-arms betook themselves to the mountains which over- hung the ship, and thence annoyed her by discharging volleys of stones, many of them of incredible size. Their firing and assaults slackening a Uttle about ten in the forenoon, the captain judged it to be a favoura- ble moment for weighing the anchor, and carrying the ship farther out to sea, and accordingly manned the boat with volunteers for this service. The natives, however, as soon as they discovered this, recommenced their fire, directing it chiefly at the boat, and this with such manifest danger to the men, that they were compelled to give over the attempt, and return to the ship for protection. At this time they could discover two of their former shipmates as active as the most furious of the savages. The boat was again manned afresh, and the attempt made, when a well-directed fire suddenly commenced on it a second time ; the people were again compelled to relinquish their plan, and once more betake themselves to the ship. Never was a situation more alarming than was theirs the whole of this day. It was now four in the afternoon, and they were all fully employed in making every preparation to repel the grand attack expected in the night. Each man was furnished with twelve rounds of ball-cartridges and twenty-four pistol-bullets. The muskets, being thirty in number, were well cleaned and fresh fiinted ; the great guns and swivels were double-shotted and filled with old iron ; and blunderbusses and cutlasses distributed on the deck, to be ready for JOHN TURNBULL. 389 service at a moment's notice. And, as much as possible, to prevent the stones thrown by the natives from doing injury, awnings were spread over the deck, and every other precaution taken to enable them to sell their lives at the dearest rate and defend the ship to the last extremity. About half-past six in the evening, the wind, which had hitherto blown from the sea, shifted gent-ly round to a land-breeze, furnishing them an opportunity of getting away unperceived in the night. That their ope- rations might not be discovered, they muffled the pawls of the windlass, and began to heave away upon one anchor at a time. In all these trans- actions they received signal services from poor Pulpit, whom they had taken on board here ; for he was an excellent marksman, and was well aware of what his fate would be, should he again fall into the hands of the Ulieteans ; he therefore fought like a lion, resolved never to yield but with his last breath. His young Otaheitean wife likewise behaved like a heroine, carrying powder to the men, and exerting herself to the ut- most in every way in which she could be useful. Their next station was the island called Maura or Mobidie, being the most leeward and smallest of the Society Islands. It is only about four- teen or fifteen miles in circuit, and appears to be surrounded by a reef of coral rocks, which render the approach to the shore very difficult. Leaving this, they bade adieu for the present to the Society Islands, and now shaped a course for the Sandwich Islands. The wind was so scanty during the whole of the passage, that it was with difficulty they made Whoahoo, an island subject to Tamahama, the great chief of the Sandwich Islands, on the 17th of December, 1802. Here they were informed that the king, Tamahama, attended by the greater part of his chiefs, was at present at Mowee. It is the wise policy of this chief, that all those who possess any authority or influence in the country, should accompany him in his progress through his dominions, that he may have them constantly under his eye, and not leave them exposed to the seduc- tions and conspiracies of his rival chiefs. From farther information received here, Tamahama seems to be making rapid progress in his schemes of aggrandizement. After having defeated the rightful sove- reign of this Island of Whoahoo, and all the kings of the other islands to the eastward, he has forced him, after many ineffectual struggles, to take refuge in the Island of Atooi. Thus the sovereign authority over aH these islands remains in his family, and his power and riches, from his intercourse with shipping, were hourly increasing. He was at this time making great preparations to exterminate the fugitive king, even from his place of retreat. Upon leaving Whoahoo, directed their course to Atooi, off which island they arrived the 26th of December, 1802. The exilea icing of these islands bears a character infinitely superior, in a moral point of view at least, to that of his more powerful rival, Tamahama. He ap- peared to be loved almost to adoration, and his authority, from affection, seemed to be increased almost in the same proportion as his actual pow- er had become diminished. On the following morning they received a visit from this good king, and were welcomed very heartily by him to Atooi. From some Englishmen, who had followed his fortunes for seve- ral years, this unfortunate chief had acquired such an acquaintance with their language, that he was able to understand and answer any plain ques- tion that was put to him. Having collected about three tons of yams, they set sail to the east- ward of Owyhee. Soon after their arrival they received a visit from 390 VOi'AGES ROUND THE WORLD. their countryman, Mr. Young, who had resided there for fourteen year* past, from whom they had a confirmation of the particulars respecting Tamahama. His palace is built after the European style, of brick, and glazed windows, and defended by a battery of ten guns. He has Euro- pean and American artificers about him of almost every description. In- deed his own subjects, from their intercourse with Europeans, have acquired a great knowledge of several of the mechanical arts, .and have thus enabled him to increase his navy, a very favourite object with him. His dominion seems now to be completely established. He is not only a great warrior and politician, but a very acute trader, and a match for any European in driving a bargain. He is well acquainted with the different weights and measures, and the value which all articles ought to bear in exchange with each other ; and is ever ready to take the advantage of the necessities of those who apply to him or his people for supplies. Tamahama's ardent desire to obtain a ship from Captain Vancouver was, in all probability, first excited by the suggestions of Young and his countrymen, Davis ; but such was the effect of this undertaking, that Ta- mahama became immediately more sparing of his visits on board the Discovery ; his time being now chiefly employed in attending to the car- penters at work on this new man-of-war, which, when finished, was named the Britannia. This was the beginning of Tamahama's navy ; and, from his own observations, with the assistance of Messrs. Young, Davis, &c., he has laboured inflexibly in improving his marine force, which he has now brought to a respectable state ; securing to him not only a de- cided superiority over the frail canoes of his neighbours, but the means of transporting his warriors to distant parts. Some of his vessels are employed as transports in carrying provisions from one island to another, to supply his warriors ; while the largest are used as men-of-war, and are occasionally mounted with a few light guns. No one better under- stands his interest than this ambitious chief ; no one better knows how to improve an original idea. The favours of Vancouver and his other Euro- pean benefactors would have been thrown away on any other savage ; but Tamahama possesses a genius above his situation. His body-guards, who may be considered in some respects as regularly disciplined troops, go on duty not unfrequently with the drum and fife, and relieve each other as in Europe, calling out, " all is well " at every half hour, as on board of ship. Their uniform at this time was simply a blue great-coat with yellow facings. On the evening of the 21st of- January stood along the shore to the eastward, taking the advantage of a land-breeze. On the 5th of March, in standing to the northward, at about half-past eleven, P. M., saw land. At eleven, A. M., another low island, almost level with the water, was seen from the maintop by one of the seamen. At noon, on the 7th, a low island, seen in the morning, bore from north by west half west to north by east half east, distant five or six miles. On the lOlh of March, continuing their course to the northward, an island was seen bearing from north-east to north-east by east, at from twelve to fourteen miles distance In compliment to the late Sheriff of London, Sir Richard Phillips, they named it Phillip's Island ; it is situated in latitude 16 degrees 24 minutes south, and longitude 143 degrees 37 minutes west. To another in its neighbourhood, situated in latitude 16 degrees 12 minutes south, and lon- gitude 143 degrees 57 minutes west, they gave the name of Holt's Island. Proceeding again, they arrived at the small Island of Maitia, (the Recrea- tion of Roggewein,) situated in the latitude of 15 degrees 48 minutes JOHN TITRMBULL. 391 south, and longitude 147 degrees 58 minutes west. At daylight, on the 21st, the Island of Otaheite bore from south by east to west by north half north, distant five miles. At noon anchored in Matavai Bay. During their absence, they found the ship Nautilus had been at Otaheite, and taken away all the hogs she could procure. The captain and Mr. Turnbull now concurred in opinion to sail with the ship to some of the islands lying to windward ; and thence procuring a live stock of hogs, should bring them, to Otaheite to be slaughtered. The latter gentleman with two or three assistants were to remain at Otaheite on the salting business. Mr. Turnbull, after some time, became uneasy with respect to the ship, as she had now been away two months instead of three weeks. Otoo frequently said the ship was " Killed dead by the stones,'''' he was certain of it. At length the fatal remains of the Margaret were disco- vered by the natives, about three leagues to the northward of the island. The conjectures of the royal family, the missionaries, and the natives, seemed all to lead to one point ; and, by their expressive looks, it was not difficult to comprehend their object. The sight of the sail confirmed these apprehensions beyond any farther doubt ; it was as large as three of the boat's, and could belong to nothing but a ship. From contrary winds and lee currents, it seems, the ship had been a fortnight in getting to windward ; and it was only the evening previous to the accident that the captain had commenced trading with the natives. The business of the captain, as he proposed to renew the trade for pearls (the principal object of his visit) on the succeeding morning, was to keep his station during the night ; but while in the act of plying to windward for this pur- pose, the ship was unfortunately lost on a low reef of rocks and sand- banks, in the vicinity of a cluster of islands called the Pallisers, in lati- tude 15 degrees 38 minutes south, and longitude 146 degrees 30 minutes west, which had never before been discovered. The captain and the crew landed with much difficulty, and employed themselves in saving whatever stores were within their reach ; but during the ensuing night the boat was stolen, through the treachery of two Otaheitean natives who belonging to the ship, and could never afterward be recovered. As a last resource, therefore, the deck of the ship was broken up, and, with the boards and nails it afforded, a kind of punt was made. Being flat- bottomed, it of consequence floated in less water ; arid even that with some difficulty was got over the reef. The craft being finished, the crew, to the number of eighteen, embarked, having on board only a few muskets, a small quantity of powder, one bag of bread, and ten gallons of water. Even this was so brackish that nothing but their present situation could have induced them to have made use of it ; for the sand-bank being only about forty yards across, and not more than four feet above the level of the sea, it was only by digging a good depth that any could be obtained. After a voyage of five days in this most miserable of crafts, they at length reached Otaheite, nearly exhausted. After the unfortunate circumstance of the loss of the Margaret, their prospects at Otaheite were very gloomy. Having saved little or no pro- perty from the wreck, it became a subject of serious consideration in what manner to subsist. Otaheite is as little calculated as Europe for those who are without money. The blessing of Providence, however, again interposed ; for, after they had been about three months in sus- pense, on the afternoon of ^he 27th of August, 1803, a shout of te pahia, te pahia, (a ship, a ship,) resounding through the island, aroused them into new expectations. Hope and fear now alternately prevailed ; thejr 392 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. apprehended that the captain might have some possible objection ; that he might be going to China, or on some other more circuitous voyage. It so happened, however, that the goodness of Providence was complete ; the ship was going to the very place to which of all others they wished, to Port Jackson. There were so many ceremonies to be performed at Atahourou, that the business had not been finally settled when the ship arrived. The in- telligence of this event, however, brought Pomarrey home to prepare his presents ; he got his hogs in the canoe, and was half way to the ship, when he was seized suddenly with a fit, and, falling with his hands on the side of the canoe, expired. The poor fellows in the canoe imme- diately paddled back as fast as possible to his house at Oparree, where, on her way likewise to visit the ship, Edeah had by this time arrived. It has been before mentioned, that they imputed the death of others to the prayers of the missionaries ; and that they are persuaded the prayers of these holy men have this kind of sacred witchcraft. Under such impres- sions, it may readily be conceived that the situation of the missionaries is not the most pleasant in the world. They indeed neglect nothing to render their mission successful ; on every Sabbath-day they traversed the country, two by two, in diflferent directions. But, it is feared, their efforts will for a long period be unavailing. The natives consider them as very good men, and love and esteem them accordingly ; but they do not comprehend, and therefore do not believe, the articles of their religion. One Sunday evening Mr. Jefferson requested permission to exhort Otoo and Terenaveroa, with all their followers ; Otoo sent a messenger to Mr. TurnbuU on the occasion, saying that he wished to see him ; he ac- cordingly went, and found Mr. Scott and Mr. Jefferson in the act of ex- hortation. Their congregation might amount to about fifty. Upon its conclusion, Mr. Turnbull demanded of Otoo what he wanted with him. He asked, upon the departure of the missionaries, whether it was all true they had preached 1 He replied in the affirmative ; that it was strictly so according to his own belief, and that of all the wiser and better part of his countrymen. He demanded where Jehovah lived ; Mr. Turnbull pointed to the heavens. He said he did not believe it. His brother was, if possible, still worse. Edeah was looking on, with a kind of haughty and disdainful indifference. It was all kavery, or falsehood ; adding, they would not believe unless they could see ; and observed, as they could bring down the sun and moon by means of a quadrant, why could they not bring down their Saviour by a similar operation 1 The missionaries apparently lived together in the greatest love and harmony, and all of them presented an example of industry. Their situa- tion, however, was by no meana so comfortable as many of their country- men may be inclined to imagine ; for as their stock of European articles decreases, they must proportionably lose their influence over the natives. They possessed a public garden very well stocked and cultivated, and the greater part of them a private one not much inferior. The space en- closed within the palisades of the public garden is about four acres. It seems natural to imagine that its beauty and utility would have acted as a stimulus to the natives to imitate their industry ; but the indolence of the Otaheiteans is beyond the cure of any common remedy. In the gar- dens of the missionaries are lemon, lime, orange, peach, and citron trees, in great number and perfection ; they have, moreover, patches of the tarra root, Indian corn, and indigo. It must be some vears, however, before they can expect t9 derive any considerable advantage from these. Mr. JOHN TtRNBTTLt. 393 Jefferson had opened a school, but only one native attended ; this was the daughter of a European, one of the crew of the Matilda. These good men, at Mr. Turnbull's departure, were very anxious to receive intelli- gence from their friends in England, and were in daily expectation of the arrival of one of their ships. Edeah observed, in a manner which it was not difficult to interpret, that this ship was a long time coming.* They took their final leave of Otaheite on the 2d of September, 1803, bending their course for the Friendly Islands. On their way thither made Savage Island ; and the wind being fair and a commanding breeze, sailed within the distance of three miles of the shore. They next made the Island of Eooa,t or Middleburg, the easternmost of the Friendly Islands, and lay off and on the greater part of the day, trading with the natives for cocoa nuts and curiosities. These people, in their manners and ap- pearance, have a great resemblance to the Sandwich islanders. Their canoes, with the exception of those of the Sandwich Islands, were the neatest seen in these seas. The people appeared to be persuaded that their curiosities were inestimable, for they observed no moderation in they demands. They trade as if they had been accustomed to extortion all their lives ; they wanted axes and scissors in exchange for their worth- less trumpery. From the short visit paid this people, it is impossible to say anything with regard to their habits and manners ; the uncommon ferocity of their looks, however, must excite an involuntary surprise at a first interview with them. This perhaps appeared more striking, as they had but then left the Otaheiteans, whose looks rather invite to confidence. It is said that some of the missionaries, in their efforts to improve the condition of this people, have lost their lives. The remainder were pro- videntially preserved by the arrival of a Spanish prize, on board of which was one of their brethren of the name of Harris, who, in despair of effect- ing any useful purpose, had left the Marquesas. He had joined this prize as a kind of navigating pilot at Otaheite, on her way to Port Jackson ; and, in consequence of his interest, had procured the admission of the other missionaries on board, and thus, in all probability, saved their lives. Since that time, nearly the whole of the Portland's crew have fallen victims to the treachery of these islanders ; and three of the sailors belonging to the Union, who landed among them, have been barbarously and inhumanly murdered. And, while on this subject, we cannot omit a circumstance of a peculiar nature, which took place at Vavao, one of the neighbour- ing islands, in August, 1801 -. The last missionary ship, on her passage from Otaheite to China, waiving all intercourse with Tongataboo, made choice of the harbour of that island, which is represented as large and capacious, for the purpose of recruiting her stock of water, &c., &c. On clearing the harbour, they observed a large double canoe, which had just arrived from the Hapaee Islands, and had an European on board. Curi- osity led them to send the pinnace to hear the state of those islands ; at one, P. M., the pinnace returned with the European, who proved to * The continued acts of oppression that have been exercised by Pomarrey, or Otoo, since the death of his father, has, exactly as was foreseen, brought upon him a just and merited punishment. The whole people, unable to en- dure their hard lot, and stimulated by a desire of liberty and of vengeance, had recoiirse to arms ; and after various engagements, in which they wers always successful, at last drove him and the whole of his partisans from the island. The missionaries, alarmed, and under the most serious apprehen- sions for the safety of their lives, came to a resolution of abandoning the island, and retiring to Port Jackson. t ^r Eaoowee. 394 VOYAGES ROITND THE WORLI?. be Mr. George Veeson, who was left at Tongataboo by the Duff. The pinnace had some difficulty in getting him, as the chief had given orders to take him on shore, and then destroy him, that he might not give infor- mation respecting several Europeans that had been murdered by them at the Hapaee Islands. He had made several attempts to get away previous to this, and was often on the point of escaping, but the vigilance of the savages rendered them all abortive. On making the land about Port Jackson, some young Otaheiteans on board were in raptures, probably thinking it was England ; but seeing the barrenness of the country as they entered the harbour, and the scragginesa of the trees, their spirits evidently sunk. On coming to an anchor in Sydney Cove, there was a coach and four standing almost opposite the ship. This astonished them beyond measure. Each inquired of the other their opinion of this wonderful phenomenon. They concluded that it must be a travelling house ; but they could find no name for the horses, having in their country no larger animals than hogs, though some of them indeed were of an uncommon size, weighing from thirty to thirty-five score. The Otaheiteans therefore called them by the name of mighty Logs. During Mr. TurnbuU's absence from the colony in 1801, and return in the latter end of 1803, many stone buildings had been erected, and the appearance of the whole town much changed for the better, the governor encouraging the erection of these edifices by all the means in his power. The discovery of lime-stone in various parts at this time essentially con- tributed to the execution of these patriotic efforts. Many of the houses, which had been erected at the first settlement of the colony, were in a state of rapid decay ; the governor, therefore, with a laudable provision for the gradual improvement of the town, prohibited the proprietors from rebuilding them int he old style. If they were in circumstances to rebuild with stone, they were to do so ; if not, they were at all events to introduce some improvement upon the ancient method, or the governor refused them his sanction and assistance. The most common indigenous animals of this country are the dog, which is here of the wolf nature, and much eaten by the natives. The kangaroo is likewise considered by them a great delicacy ; and, in times of scarcity, was much sought after by the European inhabitants. They used it as a substitute for beef ; it does not eat unlike it, and usually weighs from twenty-five to one hundred and forty pounds. Bass's Straits, since their discovery, have afforded employment for a number of hands, who are engaged by different individuals at Port Jack- son, and carried thither in small colonial vessels. They are stationed in different places, in gangs of ten or twelve, more or less, to collect the oil of the sea-elephant, and seal-skins, with which the straits abounded on their first discovery. The elephant oil, next to the spermaceti, is said to be the most valuable of any. A mercantile gentleman resident in the colony, Mr. Robert Campbell, who, from his public spirit and the general accommodation he affords the settlers, is deserving of every encouragement, was making up a cargo of it for the English market. When Mr. Turn- bull left the colony, he had collected about 180 tons. The seal-skins are generally disposed of to American and other ships going to China, but latterly they have found a much more profitably market in England. Some few are tanned and worked up for various purposes in the country. The country having been originally covered with wood, and the stumps of the trees still remaining in the ground, agriculture is prevented from being carried on by the help of cattle. It is by manual labour only, and JOHN TTJRNBULLs 595 chiefly by the hoe, that the soil is cultivated, which much enhances the value of the produce. The cultivation of the country, therefore, has taken place but in patches, where spme peculiar advantageous circumstances, as good land, a navigable creek or river, &c., have induced a family to settle. They hold their lands as a perpetual grant under the hand of the gover- nor and seal of the colony ; and the only clause is a quit-rent of two shillings and sixpence per annum for every 100 acres, and a reservation of such timber for the crown as may be fit for naval purposes. The quantity of land hitherto granted by the crown to settlers is twenty-five acres to a convict whose time is expired, and who has been allowed to settle ; thirty to a private soldier ; fifty to a non-commissioned officer ; one hundred to a commissioned ditto ; and one hundred and eighty to a free man from England. But of late the regulation in some instances has been broken through, and government has been more liberal in their grants. The appearance of the farms bespeaks the industry of the owners, and every farmer keeps as many men as the produce of his land will admit of. The seed-time for wheat is from the beginning of April to the middle of May, and it is reaped in December. Indian corn is planted in the months of October and November, and pulled in April and May. The produce, of course, is different according to the various natures of the land, from twelve to forty bushels per acre. At Hawkesbury the land, when first cultivated, is said to have produced sixty bushels per acre, but on calculation they do not make the average of the colony, in ordinary years, more than fifteen bushels per acre. The quantity of seed-wheat required is from one and a half to two and a half bushels per acre, and that of Indian cora two quarts per acre. Potatoes may be planted and dug throughout the whole year. The grape answers well, but is little cultivated in the country. The day's work, throughout the year, is fixed at ten hours, and six oa Saturday. If a master employs any prisoner in his own time, his pay- ment is not to be more than at the rate of one shilling per diem. Clothing for the convicts is issued twice annually, viz., in December and June. In December each man is furnished with one frock, one shirt, one pair trousers, one pair breeches, and one pair shoes j in June, with two jackets, two shirts, one pair breeches or trousers, one hat, and two pair shoes. Masters not having an opportunity of clothing such prisoners, on appli- cation, are supplied with the above articles at the government price. By his agreement with government, the employer is to find sufficient lodging for such servant on his farm or habitation ; nor is the prisoner to absent himself on any account, without leave from his employer. One great dif- ficulty in the government of this settlement is to prevent the escape of the convicts. Scarcely a ship leaves the port, without some attempt being made ; and the failure of one is only the commencement of another. Very severe is the penalty for carrying prisoners away whose terms of transportation have not expired. In 1809 the master of a vessel was fined £800 for having contravened the port orders, by secreting three convicts. The usual method of payment in this colony is by the barter of one com- modity for that of another. Spirits, tea, sugar, and tobacco, are in greatest demand ; and next to these, the manufactures and productions of the mother country. These articles are received in exchange to the great advantage of the seller. There is scarcely any specie in circulation. The most common money, if such it may be called, is the notes- of-hand of individuals, which, however respectable, as in some instances may be the credit of the drawers, is very inconvenient to adventurers, who can stay only a certam time, and cannot expect to circulate such notes beyond 396 VOYAOBS ROUND THE WORID. the colony. There is, however, a good quantity of copper coin in circu- lation, which passes for double its value. The Calcutta having completed her repairs and cargo, the captain and Mr. Turnbull embarked on board that ship on the evening of the 16th of March, 1804, in very ill health, brought on by a course of hardships and fatigue. And on the following day bade adieu to this settlement, where, from party divisions and the bad habits of the convicts, it requires some discretion in a stranger to steer clear of offence. « On the 27th of April rounded Cape Horn. On the 22d of May arrived off the harbour of Rio Janeiro, in latitude 22 degrees 54 minutes south, and longitude 42 degrees 42 minutes west. At length, after an absence of four years and twenty- one days, the long-lost shores of Albion made their appearance. Two days after they anchored at Spithead, in the midst of a fleet of ships, the de- fence and just pride of their country. CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN.— 1803-6. On the 7th of August, 1802, Captain Krusenstern was appointed to the command of an expedition preparing for the north-west coast of America ; but it was not until February, 1803, that two ships, one of 450 tons, the other of 370 tons, had been purchased, for £17,000 sterling, in London. In addition to this sum, their repairs had cost £5,000. The first of these two vessels was called Nadeshda, or the Hope, the other the Neva ; the former commanded by himself, the latter by Captain Lisianskey. M. de Resanoff embarked in the Nadeshda, as ambassador- extraordinary to the court of Japan. Valuable presents were prepared to secure the favour of the monarch and his ministers ; and, to effect this with the greater certainty, some Japanese, who, in 1796, were captured in the Aleutian Islands, such of them, at least, as. had not embraced the Christian religion and wished to return home, were to be conveyed back from Irkutsk, the place of their confinement. On the 5th of June, 1803, the ships destined for the voyage arrived at Cronstadt. On the 7th of August, at nine in the morning, they sailed. On the 26th of September crossed the meridian of Greenwich ; soon after saw St. Ann's, the eastern point of the entrance to Falmouth, and Pendennis Castle, which is the westernmost. At eight o'clock anchored in the Carreck road. The wind was now favourable, and they waited with considerable im- patience for M. ResanofF, who, at length, arrived at Falmouth early in the morning of the 5th. The same day they sailed from Carreck road. On the 19th anchored in Santa Cruz, Teneriffe. About twelve at noon, on the 27th, they weighed with a pleasant southerly breeze. On the 6th of November, at daybreak, perceived the Island of St. Antonio at the dis- tance of from twenty-five to twenty-eight miles. During the whole time that the trade wind lasted they were accompanied by an infinite number of bonitos, and harpooned some of them almost daily. They made a fresh and palatable dish for the people. They caught but one shark, part of which was eaten, although it was not so good as a bonito. The Japanese, however, ate the head, and seemed to relish it much. At daybreak, December 11th, saw the Island of Frio, which lies near Cape Frio, and is easily distinguished by a deep valley which divides the island into two equal parts. They now held a course directly for St. Catharine's, the depth £)f the road of which diminishes gradually to five fathoms, in which CAPTAIN KRtJSENSTEKN. 397 ■oundings they anchored at five o'clock in the evening o( the 2l8t of De- cember. The town, which is very pleasantly situated, consists of one hundred ill-constructed houses, and is inhabited by two thousand or three thousand poor Portuguese and negro slaves. The governor's house and the bar- racks are the only buildings distinguished by their appearance above the rest. They were, at this time, building a church, which in many Catho- lic countries is thought more of than either hospitals or any other useful building. On the main, as well as in the island, the soil is remarkable fruitful. Excellent coflfee and sugar are cultivated here. The rum is not equal to that of Jamaica ; experience convinced them that it improves by age and travelling, and yields then in nothing to the rum of Santa Cruz. But as foreign ships are only allowed to purchase for ready-money, and none of the inhabitants of this government are permitted to send their produce to Europe, the prospect of selling it falls entirely to the ground. Where the market is overstocked, industry must naturally be checked ; and they only cultivate, therefore, sufficient for their own use, and to enable them to send yearly one or two small vessels, of about seventy to eighty tons, to Rio de Janeiro, to barter inland productions against Euro- pean goods ; for the inhabitants of these parts receive only from Rio de Janeiro the most indispensable articles of life. On the 22d of January the Neva received a new foremast, and on the 25th a mainmast. Day and night the crews of both ships were employed in getting her ready for sea. On the 2d of February the ambassador came on board, accompanied by the governor and several of his officers. The guns of all the three forts fired the moment the boat hove in sight. On the 26th of February had sight of the whole coast of Staten Land, trending from south to south-east, at a distance of from thirty-five to forty miles. The land formed nearly a straight line, lying east and west, and appeared to consist entirely of pointed hills, separated from each other by deep hollows, and cut sharp off by the sea. At eight o'clock, in the morning of the 3d of March, four weeks after their departure from St. Catharine's, they doubled Cape Horn, On the 24th, so high a wind arose at north-north-east, veering to north-north-west, with lofty waves and foggy weather, that they lost sight of the Neva. At daybreak, on the 6th of May, saw Fetugu Island, one of the Marquesas, distant from thirty-five to thirty-eight miles. This island is lofty, but is not of a great circum- ference ; it consists of a single high, and at the summit almost flat rock, with a gentle inclination from north to south. On the northernmost point is to be perceived, though not very distinctly, a division forming two hills. About five in the afternoon perceived Nukahiwa wrapped in fog, which prevented their forming any correct judgment of its distance. At eleven o'clock next day they perceived to the westward a canoe rowing off ; it had an out-rigger, and was paddled along by eight Indians : they were much struck by a white flag it had hoisted, a token of peace that led them to expect some European on board of it ; their expectations were soon confirmed. There was an Englishman in the boat, who at first had quite the appearance of one of the islanders ; his dress being entirely in their fashion, consisting merely of a girdle round the waist. He showed the certificates of two Americans, (to whom he had been of assistance during their stay here, particularly by procuring them wood and water,) in which it was attested that he had conducted himself well ; and he offered his service, which they readily accepted, being glad to procure so good an interpreter, by whose assistance thev hoped to obtain some par- 34 398 VOYAGES ROtTND THE WORLD. ticular information about this almost unknown island. This Englishman, whose name was Roberts, told them that he had been seven years upon the island, and two years previously in that of Santa Christina ; that ha had been put on shore on the latter out of an English merchant- ship, the crew of which had mutinied against their captain, and could not prevail upon him to join their party ; and in Nukahiwa he had lately married a relation of the king's, by which he acquired great consideration ; so that it would be very easy for him to be of assistance to them. At the same time he warned them against a Frenchman, who had deserted from an English merchant-ship, and had likewise resided here for so.me years. This Frenchman he described as his bitterest enemy, who omitted nothing to blacken him in the eyes of the king and the islanders, and had often, he added, made attempts against his life. Here, too, the innate hatred between the French and English appeared. Not content to disturb the peace of the whole civilized world, even the inhabitants of the lately- discovered islands of this ocean must feel the influence of their rivalship without so much as knowing the origin of it. At noon anchored in Port Anna Maria ; the small Island of Mutanoe, which forms the western side of the entrance, bearing south-west thirty degrees, and Mattau, on the east side, nearly south. They had scarcely let go their anchor, when the ship was surrounded by several hundred of the inhabitants, who brought cocoa nuts, bread fruit, and bananas, for sale. The only things they could give them in exchange were pieces of old iron hoops, four or five inches long, with which they had supplied both ships for this purpose while at Cronstadt. Such a piece was usually the price of five cocoa nuts and three or four of the bread fruit ; but though they seemed to set a very high value ou these, axes and hatchets were the chief objects of their wishes. They showed a childish joy on receiving even a small piece of iron hoop, and usually e-vinced their satisfaction by a loud laugh, displaying their newly- acquired riches with an air of triumph to their less fortunate companions, who swam round the ship. This expression of pleasure was perhaps a proof of the little opportunity which they have hitherto had of procuring this valuable metal ; and, indeed, they collected from the account of Roberts, that only two small American merchant-ships had touched here in the space of seven years. At four in the afternoon the king and his suite came on board. His name was Tapega Kettenowee. He was a very strong, well-made man, with a thick and extremely fat neck, from forty to forty-five years of age. His body was tattooed, with a dark colour approaching to black, so com- pletely, that it even extended to spots on his head, from which his hair had been cut away. He was in nowise to be distinguished from the lowest of his subjects, being, with the exception of the tschiabu,* entirely naked. The captain led him to his cabin, and gave him a knife and a piece of red cloth about twenty ells long, which he immediately bound round his loins. To his suite, consisting chiefly of his relations, he also made some presents, although Roberts advised him not to be so generous, as not one of them, not even the king, would ever make any return for them At sunset all the men without exception went on shore ; but about one hundred females still remained near the ship, round which they had been swimming during five hours. In this time they had made use of every art in their power to declare the object of their visit, nor could * Tschiabu is the girdle which the savages wear round their waist ; in the Sandwich Isles it is called maro. CAPtAlN KRUSENSTERN. 309 they doubt that their wishes were understood, since neither their panto- niiine nor their attitudes could be mistaken. At ten o'clock next day, accompanied by the ambassador and most of the officers of the ship, the captain went on shore. Although, from the friendly footing on which they stood with the king and his relations, and the perfectly unsuspicious disposition of the islanders, they had every reason to calculate upon an amicable reception, it was prudent, and in- deed necessary, not to appear otherwise than well armed. They there- fore took a boat besides the barge, of which all the men, as well as the officers, were armed, the former with a brace of pistols and a sabre, and six of them with fire-arms. The Englishman and Frenchman acted aa interpreters. A vast concourse of people of both sexes were collected on the beach, but the landing, owing to the heavy surf, was not effected without difficulty. Although neither the king nor any of his relations were among these people, they conducted themselves with great decency and respect. After they had examined the water and found it good, they directed their course toward a house not far from the beach, where the king was waiting to receive them. About 500 paces from this house, the king's uncle, who is at the same time his step-father, and is here al- ways called the king's father, came to meet them. He was an old man of seventy-five years of age, yet seemed to enjoy perfect health. His eye was very brilliant, and the features of his countenance displayed the marks of an intrepid and determined character. He was one of the greatest warriors of his time, and was now suffering from a wound on his eye, over which he wore a bandage. In his hand he held a long staff, with which he endeavoured, but in vain, to keep back the crowd. He took Krusenstern by the hand, and led him to a long narrow building, in which the king's mother and all his relations of her sex were sealed in a row, and appeared to be expecting them ; and they had scarcely en- tered the precincts of this building, when the king likewise came, and welcomed them with much familiarity and friendship. The people here stood still, and separated in two bodies, the king's dwelling being tahbu. The captain was forced to sit down in the middle of the royal ladies, who all examined him with a great deal of curiosity, holding his hand by turns, clasped within theirs, and only dropping it to examine his clothes, the embroidery of his uniform, hat, &c. Notwithstanding ail their exertions, they could not succeed in procuring hogs. In three days they had got but two, of which one was a present made in return for a parrot, and the other received in exchange for a hatchet. On the 10th of May received word from the shore that a three- masted ship was visible from the hills ; and as they imagined that this ship must be the Neva, immediately sent a boat with an officer to bring her into the bay. Captain Lisianskoy s-iid, that he had waited some days at Easter Island in the hopes of finding them there ; that strong westerly winds had prevented him from anchoring, but that he had sent a boat to Cook's Bay, to procure some bananas and potatoes from the natives. A misunderstanding now taking place, the two captains set off at eight o'clock, having sent their long-boat at seven for water. They land- ed, accompanied by twenty men under arms, and their own party consisted of more than twenty persons all armed, while the crews of the two long- boats, both of which were fitted with a couple of one-pounder swivel guns, consisted of eighteen men under the command of two officers. They might therefore have bid the whole island defiance, in case of any 400 VOlfAGES ROUND THE WOftLD. hostile attempt against them, but nobody appeared on the beach at theii landing. The king met them about 100 paces from his dwelling, whith- er, after a hearty welcome, he accompanied them. The whole family was assembled there, and seemed very much rejoiced at their visit ; in- deed, they had reason to be so, for they received presents from every one of the party, and the queen expressed particular satisfaction at a small looking-glass which was given to her. They asked the king what had induced him to spread a false report, which had well nigh destroyed the harmony that had hitherto existed between them, and might have led to consequences not likely to have proved to his advantage. He said, that he had never feared they should use him ill ; btit that the French- man had told him Krusenstern would put him in irons without fail unless hogs were brought on board ; and this he had believed. They soon set out on their return to the boats ; but could not, however, withstand the request of the friendly Roberts, to visit his house ; nor did they regret the little round they were obliged to make in order to get there. It was built after the fashion of the island, was quite new, and stood in the midst of a wood of cocoa trees. Upon one side flowed a small stream, and upon the other, in the middle of a rock, was a spring of mineral water. They all seated themselves round his house on the rocks, which formed the banks of the rivulet, and refreshed themselves in the shade of the lofty cocoa trees, after their walk, which, owing to the extreme heat, had greatly fatigued them. About twenty of the islanders were busied throwing down cocoa nuts from the trees, which others cleared of the husks and broke with great skilfulness. The kernel quieted the hunger they began to feel, and quenched their thirst with the fine cold milk, which was extremely refreshmg. Roberts's wife, a pretty young woman, of about eighteen years of age, seemed in some measure to have departed from the custom of her country, and very much to her advantage, for she had not rubbed her body over with cocoa oil, which, although it gives great lustre to the skin, produces a very powerful smell. The group of Washington Islands was discovered in the year 1791 by Captain Ingraham, of the American merchant-ship Hope, of Boston, in his voyage from the Mendoza Islands to the north-west coast of Ame- rica. A few weeks afterward they were again seen by Marchand, in the French ship Le Solide. But the fact is, they all belong to the group of the Marquesas, discovered by Mendana, in 1595. The Nukahiwers are invariably of a large stature and well made ; they are very muscular, with a long handsome neck, have a great regu- larity of countenance, and an air of real goodness, which was not belied by their dealings ; but when we consider the cruelties of which these men are capable, the prejudice in their favour, which the beauty of their person is very likely to create, soon vanishes, and their own countenance seems to indicate nothing but apathy. An animated eye none of them possess. By tattooing their bodies very much and rubbing them with a dark colour, they acquire a black appearance ; otherwise, their natural colour is clear; at least, that of the boys and women who were not tat- tooed was so ; nor do they differ very much from the colour of the Europeans, being only rather more yellow. Among the very handsome people of this island, they observed two in particular, who excited the admiration of them all. The one was a great warrior of Tayo Hoae, and, at the same time, what, in the la.iguage of the country, is called Fire-lighter to the king ; his name was Mau-ha-u, and he was perhapTsi one of the handsomest men that ever existed ; he was six feet two inches CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 401 high, and every part of his body perfectly beautiful. The other was Bauting, king of the vale of Schegua, who, notwithstanding his age, for he certainly was not less than fifty, was still extremely handsome. The women all looked well, at least nothing could be said against their coun- tenances. A well-proportioned head, a face rather round than long, a large sparkling eye, blooming colour, very good teeth, curled hair, which they ornamented with a white band in a manner very becoming to them all, and the remarkably clear colour of their bodies, may perhaps entitle them to a preference over the inhabitants of the Sandwich, Society, and Friendly Islands. A very important member of the royal family is the fire-maker ; his duty consists partly in being always near the king's person to execute his orders : but the business wherein his master generally employs him is of a nature perfectly characteristic of the monarch of Nukahiwa. On quitting his house for any time, his fire-maker does not accompany him, but must, in every sense, represent his person with the queen, who finds in him a second husband during the absence of the first. He is the guardian of her virtue, and his reward the enjoyment of that which he has to protect. The kings of Nukahiwa probably have a' notion that it is better to share with one, what would otherwise be divided among several ; but perhaps the duty of fire-maker is only a royal luxury with him. Ther herculean Mau-ha-u filled this post near the queen of Tayo ^oae ; but he certainly did not merit the confidence of his sovereign, for he appeared to be a very bad guardian of the morals of his wife. It may easily be imagined that a people who find pleasure in eating human flesh, will frequently wage war with their neighbours to procure some of this delicacy, although there should be no other sufl5cient reason for it ; and, in their art of war, there is a perfect similarity between the character of these savages and of wild beasts. They seldom meet in large parties in the field, but their usual mode of warfare is to be con- stantly watching for, and secretly seeking to butcher their prey, which they devour on the spot. He who evinces the greatest skill in these arts, who can lie the longest on his belly perfectly motionless, who can breath the lowest, run the swiftest, and spring with the greatest agility from one precipice to another, acquires no less reputation ^monghis comrsfdes than the brave and powerful Mau-ha-u. In all these attainments the French- man particularly excelled, and he since frequently amused them with a relation of his exploits, and of the numbers whom he had slain in this mode of warfare ; entering into a particular detail of all the circumstances. But he assured them, and even Roberts, his enemy, did him the justice to acknowledge, that he had never eaten human flesh, always exchanging his victims for hogs. It is with the natives of the neighbouring valleys, such as Home, Schegua, and Hottyschewa, that those of Tayo Hoae wage a continued warfare, as well as with the inhabitants of another valley far inland. The warriors of Home, whose number is about 1000, have a name peculiar to themselves, tai-pihs, which signifies warriors of the great ocean ; with these tai-pihs the people of Tayo Hoae do not carry on war by sea, but merely by land. The son of Kettenowee is married to the daughter of the king of the tai-pihs ; and as she joined her hus- band by water, the sea which divides these two valleys is tahbu, that is to say, must not be contaminated by any blood. Whenever one of the high priests of the valley dies, three human bodies must be sacrificed to him. These are never chosen from among the people Iq which the priest belonged, but must be taken from some of 402 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD the neighbours, and several canoes are immediately despatched to procure them. Roberts was able to give but very little insight into the reliaious opinions of his new countrymen, probably because their ideas are but confused upon this head ; although, perhaps, he had not troubled himself to obtain any knowledge of them. The following he described as the usual funeral ceremonies, in which the spirit of their origin cannot be mistaked : After the corpse is washed, it is laid upon a platform, both being covered over with a piece of entire new stuff, and the next day the family of the deceased gives a grand feast, inviting their best friends and relations. To these, at which the priests must always be present, the women are on no account allowed admittance ; they produce their whole stock of hogs, (seldom eaten but upon these occasions,) of tarra root, and of bread fruit ; and, as soon as the guests are assembled, they cut of the hog's head to propitiate the gods, and obtain for the deceased a safe and peaceable passage through the lower regions. This gift, which the priest takes possession of, is secretly devoured by him, and he only leaves a small piece of it under a stone. The friends or nearest relations of the deceased must then watch for some months over the corpse, and rub it constantly with cocoa oil, to prevent putrefaction. By this continued application it becomes hard as a stone, and quite incorruptible. Twelve months after the first feast, a second equally extravagant meal is given, to thank the gods for having permitted the deceased to arrive safe in tho other world. After this the corpse is broken into pieces, and the bones are packed in a small box, made of the wood of the bread fruit tree, and carried to the morai or burial-place, where no woman is allowed to ap- proach under pain of death. Roberts, although he appeared to be an enthusiast and of no settled character, was a man of strorg understanding, and a good man. The worst that his bitter enemy, the Frenchman, could say against him, was, that he evinced no skill in stealing, and therefore was in constant danger of dying of hunger. He had, however, by degrees acquired that esteem from the savages, which reason must obtain from stupidity, and he had mt)re influence over them than any of their most distinguished warriors. To the king he had become particularly necessary, and, no doubt, he would effect more good than the missionary Crook, who remained for some time upon this island, was able to perform ; for the latter had no other idea than that of converting the Nukahiwers to Christianity, without recollect- ing that it was first necessary to make them men ; for this purpose Roberts appears more proper, as well on account of the example he afforded and of his activity, as the esteem which they universally bore him, than either Crook or any other missionary whatever. He has built a very neat house, and possesses a piece of land, which he cultivates with care and diligence ; and he never fails, where it can be done, of introducing improvements before unknown to them. From his own ac- count, he led a happy independent life, and was only troubled by the thoughts of being surrounded by cannibals, for which reason he was par- ticularly fearful of the next war. They offered to convey him to the Sandwich Islands, from whence he would easily find an opportunity of getting to China, but he could not prevail on himself to quit his wife, who during their stay bore him a son, and it is probable he will end his days in Nukahiwa. The information with regard to the population of the island is drawn certainly from a very arbitrary estimation. But where no positive account can be adduced, anything even approaching the truth becomes of value. CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 403 Tayo Hoae, according to Roberts, can send 800 warnors against its enemies ; Home, 1000 ; Scbegua, 500 ; Maudayhas 1200 ; Hottyschewa, to the south-west of Tayo Hoae, and another valley to the north-east, have each 1200. These numbers Roberts mentioned at random, having no positive information on the subject, but believing, he said, that they were rather below than above the mark. The warriors, therefore, amount to 5,900 ; and if we take three times that number for the women, children, and old people, which is not too little, considering that their marriages are very unproductive, the whole amount of the population is 17,700, or, in round numbers, 18,000. The two Europeans, who had both resided here for several years, agreed in their assertions, that the natives were a cruel intractable people, and, without even the exception of the female sex, very much addicted to cannibalism. They described, as eye-witnesses, the barbarous scenes that are acted, particularly in times of war ; the desperate rage with which they fall upon their victims ; immediately tear off their head, and sip their blood out of the skull with the most disgusting greediness, com- pleting in this manner their horrible repast. In times of famine the men butcher their wives and children and their aged parents ; they bake and stew their flesh, and devour it with the greatest satisfaction. Some years ago an American merchant-ship put into Port Anna Maria, and the cap- tain, who was a Quaker, suffered his people to go on shore unarmed ; but the natives no sooner perceived their defenceless condition, than they assembled in order to attack and drag them into the mountains. Roberts succeeded, with the greatest difficulty, and with the assistance of the king, to whom he represented the treachery of their conduct and the consequences it would infallibly bring upon the whole island, in rescuing them out of the hands of these cannibals. On the 18th of May they set sail, in very bad weather, from the Bay of Tayo Hoae, or Anna Maria. On the 7th of June, at half-past eight, saw land, and immediately perceived it to be Ov/aihi, distant about thirty- six miles, bearing north-west, yet could not distinguish Mowna Roa. After standing in to about six miles from the sl^ore, put the ship about, and steered along the coast under nothing but topsails, heaving-to as soon as they saw any canoes put off. Their cargoes, however, did not in the least answer expectation. Some potatoes, half a dozen cocoa nuts, and a small sucking-pig, were all they were able to procure out of six canoes ; and these they did not obtain without difficulty and at a very high price, as the venders would take nothing but cloth in payment, and they had not a yard on board to dispose of. This unfortunate circumstance made Krusenstern determine upon loosing no more time, and on quitting the coast immediately for Kamtschatka, where he should arrive without fail about the middle of July. Captain Lisianskey, whose time was not of equal consequence to him, resolved, on the other hand, to run into Kara- kakooa Bay for a few days, and then continue his voyage to Kodiac, At daybreak, July 14, saw to the north a high mountainous land, which, from its direction, must have been Shipunskoy-noss. About eleven next day ran into Awatsha Bay, and at one anchored in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, after a very good passage of thirty-five days from Owaihi. They did not find the Governor of Kamtschatka at the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, his usual residence being at Niznei Karatskchatkoi, about 700 wersts from thence. On the 12th of August he arrived, ac- companied by his younger brother, who acted as his adjutant, and by Captain Feodoroff and sixty men, whom he had brought with him at tho 404 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. request of M. de ResanofF, and it was settled that they should sail in a week after his arrival. On the 29th of August the ship was quite ready for sea, and on the 30th left the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. About noon, September 30th, the weather assumed an appearance that left no doubt of what would soon follow. The waves ran mountains high from the south-east ; the sun was of a dead pale colour, and was soon conceal- ed behind the clouds, which flew with rapidity from the same quarter ; and the wind, which increased gradually, rose by one o'cloclc to such a height as to prevent their taking in their topsails and courses without the greatest difficulty and danger, the tackle, though almost all new, mostly giving way. About three o'clock in the afternoon the storm had increased to such a degree as to rend all the storm-sails, the only ones set. Nothing could equal the violence of the gale. . Much as they had heard of the ty- phous on the Chinese and Japanese coasts, this exceeded all expectation. It would fall within the province of the poet to describe it properly. About six o'clock, October lOth, saw the land of Japan, bearing west- north-west, distant nearly forty-five miles. The country in general ap- peared to be very mountainous, and the hills, among which were some very lofty peaks, were in double and sometimes in three and four rows. A short time before sunset, on the 5th of October, as they sailed parallel with the south-west coast of Satzuma, saw in the north-west a high land ^ looking like an island, which they afterward learned was the Island of y!^ Meacsima. The land that surrounds Satzuma Bay is very mountainous, and a high land is particularly distinguishable to the northward, upon which runs a line of mountains of a wavy form, having a high peak in the centre. To the north-westward of these there is a double peak, ad- joining to a table-mountain, from whence a constant smoke ascends. This, from its description, seems to be the Unga mountain, so remarkable during the persecution of the Christians in Japan ; for it was to this place that the unfortunate enthusiasts, to whom the Jesuits had imparted their religion, were brought and afterward plunged, if they persisted in not re- turning to the religion of their forefathers, into the crater of the volcano. From Cape Nomo to the entrance of Nangasaki there were several small bights behind the rocks, bordered by the most beautiful valleys. The land in general bore decided proofs of the most diligent cultivation, affording a beautiful prospect, improved by very long avenues of trees ; behind the valleys bordering on the coast the land to the northward formed itself into a chain of mountains, A boat now came alongside, having a Japanese officer on board, which, after putting some questions, immediate- ly returned ; nearly two hours after another boat came, and continued with them until about half-past five, when they came to an anchor at the entrance of Nangasaki Bay. Every one knows the insulting jealousy which is observed toward strangers in Japan ; the Russians had no right to expect a more favoura- ble treatment than other nations ; yet, as they had an ambassador on board, who was sent merely with assurances of friendship, by the monarch of a powerful empire, bordering upon these people so suspicious in their poli- tics, they hoped not to be received unfavourably. Although they expected to be allowed more liberty than the Dutch enjoy here, they found them- selves greatly mistaken. The first proof of their jealousy was evinced in their taking from them all their powder and fire-arms, even to the fowling- pieces belonging to the officers, among which were some of considerable ▼alue ; and it was not until after four months' constant entreaties and representations that these latter were returned to them in order to CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERfT 406 be cleaned, though many of them were entirely destroyed by the time they were restored. The officers were indeed allowed to retain their swords, a favour which was never shown to the Dutch, and the soldiers were permitted to keep their muskets and bayonets. They were not only forbidden to go on shore, but not even allowed to row about within a short distance of the ship ; nor was it until after a six weeks' negotiation that a place was granted them, at a trifling distance, as a walk, and this only in consideration of the pretended illness of the ambassador. This place was close to the shore, in a confined bay, and was shut in on the land side by a high wall of bamboos ; and although its whole length did not exceed 100 paces, and its width at the most was forty, there were two watch-houses erected in its immediate vicinity. One single tree, but not a blade of grass, adorned this promenade, which was entirely upon a rocky ground. As soon as any boat put off from the ship for Kibatsch, for so this pro- menade was called, a fleet of ten or fifteen vessels immediately put them- selves in motion, surrounding the boat on all sides, and in this same manner it was conducted back again. The acquaintance formed on the first day of their arrival with the cap- tains of the Dutch ships made a continuation of their intercourse very desirable, bat the Russians were never allowed to visit them, nor was any Dutchman permitted to go on board their ship. When the Dutch ships sailed, they were ordered upon no account to send a boat off to them ; and when Krusenstern wished Captains Musquetier and Belmark a happy voy- age, as they passed by, and inquired after their health, the only answer he received was a sign with the speaking-trumpet ; for which the chief of the Dutch factory apologized in a letter to the ambassador, saying, that the captains had been most positively forbidden to utter the least sound in answer to their questions. When the ambassador at length received permission to land, a considerable building was appointed for his residence ; but the seven towers of Constantinople were hardly so well guarded as their Megasaky, for this was the name of the Russian Dezima. The house was situated upon a neck of land so near the sea, that on the south and east sides the water at high-tide came close under the windows. When we say windows, this word can scarcely apply to a square space about a foot wide, provided with a double lattice-work, and which therefore ad- mitted but very little light into the room. They steered about four o'clock in the afternoon, in company with a Japanese boat, toward Nangasaki, and anchored about half-past five at the entrance of the harbour. The same evening, about ten o'clock, they anchored, received the visit of several magistrates, or banjos, as they are called in Japan, from Nangasaki, who, without waiting for an invitation, walked at once into the cabin, and seated themselves on the carpet. The attendants of these great men consisted of about twenty persons, among whom were several Japanese interpreters of the Dutch language. The opperhoofd, or director of the Dutch factory. Mynheer Van Doeff, was also brought along with the banjos ; but it was upward of an hour before he was permitted to come on board. He had scarcely entered the cabin with his suite, consisting of his secretary, the two captains of the Dutch ships that were here, and a Baron Pabst, when they were all obliged to remain during several minutes in an inclined posture, which they were called upon to do by a most insolent order from the interpreter; " Mynheer Opperhoofd, compliment voor de Opper Banjosy This sub- missive, and at the same time degrading, attention was not answered even by a nod. The compliments, as they are called, of the Dutch are some 406 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. thing between the bows of the Europeans and Japanese, which last consist in throwing yourself flat on the ground, touching the earth with your head, and crouching backward and forward according as you may be spoken to by your superior. The extraordinary respect with which the interpreters spoke to the ban- jos gave at first a very high idea of the character of these magistrates, whose rank they afterward learned was very inconsiderable ; and that nothing but a commission from the governor imparts to them a temporary elevation. Whenever an interpreter had anything to translate, he cast himself on his hands and knees before the banjos ; and in this attitude, with his head hanging down, he made a hissing noise two or three times with his mouth, as if he were inhaling the air that surrounded his master. He then reported to the banjos, in a tone of voice scarcely audible, and mixed with repeated sighings, in short, broken sentences, the conversation which in Dutch had lasted several minutes. If a Japanese was addressed by a banjos he crouched to him, bowed his head to the ground, repeating constantly the monosyllable Eh ! eh ! intending to signify, " I under- , stand." The banjos always conducted themselves with great dignity ; they never laughed, but occasionally showed their satisfaction by a smile. The clothing of the banjos, as well as of the interpreters, consisted of a short upper garment with very wide sleeves, and under this a complete gown, reaching quite down to their feet, and fastened round the neck, and very similar to the female dress in Europe, except in being much narrower from the hips downward, so as to render it extremely difficult for them to walk ; indeed, they never walk but when they are absolutely compelled to do so. This is the usual dress of all the Japanese ; and the only difference between the clothes of the rich and of the poor is, that those of the former are made of silk, while the latter are clad in coarse tvoollen stuffs ; the upper garment is generally black, but there are some of different colours, and the lower dress is mostly of mixed colours. Every one has his family arms worked into his clothes, in different places, about the size of a half dollar, a practice usual to both sexes ; and in this manner any person may be recognised, and the family to which he be- longs easily ascertained. A young lady wears her father's arms until after her marriage, when she assumes those of her husband. The greatest mark of honour which a prince or a governor can confer upon any ono :*s to give him a cloak with his arms upon it, the person having such a one wearing his own arms upon his under dress ; and the ambassador was frequently told how supreme a happiness would be conferred upon him, if the emperor was to present him with a garment bearing the im- perial arms. About four o'clock the next afternoon a present, consisting of fish, rice, and fowls, was brought on board from the governor. At midnight they weighed anchor, and were towed by about sixty boats to a new an- chorage, which was nearly two miles and a half off. They could not but admire the order with which this was effected ; the flotilla divided itself into five lines, of twelve or eighteen boats each, which kept their places so regularly, that they were not once broken ; and, notwithstanding a foul wind, they advanced at the rate of two miles an hour. About four in the morning they anchored in twenty-five fathoms water, and were in- stantly surrounded by thirty-two guard-boats, which formed a circle round the ship that no vessel was allowed to break through. Their arrival at Nangasaki was too important an event in Japan for the court not to be informed of the most trifling circumstances ; so that, CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 407 after each visit of the^nterpreters to the ship, a courier was despatched with an account of every word and gesture, which frequently were of a nature to increase the suspicion and injure the pride of this jealous and haughty people. They afterward learned that the cubo, or western em- peror, could determine nothing on this momentous occasion without con- sulting the dairy ; and that he had even sent an embassy concerning them, to ascertain the wishes of this important personage, whom the Japanese, although he has no executive authority, hold in the greatest veneration on account of his religious character. On the 17th of December the ambassador was conveyed on shore, for which purpose the Prince of Fisen sent his own boat, a vessel exceeding in size (being 120 feet long) and magnificence everything they had hitherto seen. The walls and ceilings of the numerous cabins were all varnished over in the handsomest manner, and the stairs, which were of red wood, were polished so highly as to have the appearance of lacker. The decks were covered with mats and the most costly carpets ; the curtains to the doors were of rich stuffs ; and the whole boat was hung with double rows of silks of different colours. As the ambassador stepped on board, the Russian imperial standard was hoisted and waved together with the flag of the Prince of Fisen ; and his guard, which accompanied him on board the vessel, took their place on the upper deck, close to the standard. On the 19th of February the ambassador received an official notice that the emperor had sent a person, attended by eight .nobles, to Nangasaki, with full powers to treat with him. The interpreters did not exactly tell him that he would not now have any occasion to travel to Jeddo, yet this was easily to be inferred. The person whom the emperor had sent was of the highest rank, and, according to the expression made use of by the interpreters, was permitted to see the emperor's feet, though never to exalt his looks higher ; (an honour which even the Governor of Nangasaki could not boast ;) and it was not to be supposed that so great a character would be sent merely to accompany the ambassador to Jeddo. It was only, however, on the 12th of March that Skeyseima, the chief interpreter, acquainted the ambassador that he would not be permitted to travel to Jeddo ; and that the Japanese plenipotentiary would arrive in ten or fifteen days in Nangasaki, after which the ship must return to Kamtschatka as soon as she could possibly be fitted for sea. On the 30th of March the plenipotentiary arrived from Jeddo. The negotiations, with respect to the ceremonies of the audience, which were conducted with great warmth on both sides, commenced on the 3d of April, when it was concluded that the ambassador should pay the re- presentative of the Japanese emperor an European, and not a Japanese, compliment. On the 4th of April the ambassador had his first audience, to which he was conveyed in a large boat, adorned with flags and curtains. His suite consisted of five persons, Major Frederici, Captain Feodoroff, Lieu- tenant Koscheleff, Dr. Langsdortf, and Counsellor Fosse, besides a ser- geant, who carried the standard ; and he landed at a place to the north of Dezima, which the interpreters called Mussel Trapp. On this occa- sion merely an exchange of compliments took place, and a few insignifi- cant questions were put to him. The second audience was conducted with the same ceremonies, and here the negotiation terminated ; the necessary documents being dehvered into his hands, which contained an order that no Russian ship should again come to Japan ; and the pre- sents, and even the letter from the Emperor of Russia, were all refused. 408 VOYAGES ROUND tHfe WORLD. On the 16th of April the ambassador had his last audience of tho plenipotentiary ; immediately after which they began to bring the cannon, anchors, cables, and provisions on board. The satisfaction which the prospect of soon quitting Japan occasioned to the ship's company, was evinced in their activity, and the working sixteen hours a day, to get the ship in readiness. At four in the morning of the 17th of April, they hove in their first an- chor ; and at five the next morning sailed out of the bay, with a moderate breeze at east-south-east, very glad to be released from so little honoura- ble confinement, which might have been the prelude to a harder fate. At daybreak, on the 21st, perceived the land, and they held a course parallel with the Island of Tsus. The north extremity of this island at that time bore west by north, and a high flat mountain, not far from this point, south-west 85 degrees ; at one the north end of the island bore nearly west. On the 1st of May perceived again the land of Japan bear- ing east-north-east, at the distance of about eighteen or twenty miles': it had quite the appearance of an island, and they had no doubt of its being that of Iwo-sima, laid down in the charts nearly in 39 degrees, between Cape Sangar and Jacata Bay ; the next day they were convinced that it was no island, but a promontory projecting very much to the west, and distinguishable by a high mountain, with a rounded summit lying in the centre of it. In latitude 40 degrees 50 minutes and longitude 219 degrees 54 minutes perceived a town, with a port and several vessels lying at anchor ; the valley in which it was built appeared in the highest degree cultivated. Corn-fields, meadows in which a considerable quantity of cattle were grazing, and groups of trees, apparently more the work of art than of nature, beautified this district. About five o'clock four large boats put off from the town, which then bore south-east, and rowed toward them in the greatest hurry. The number of people, of whom there were twenty- five or thirty in each boat, rendered their intention rather suspicious ; but though it was scarcely probable that they could be hostile, considering the well-known strictness of the Japanese government, still they thought it prudent to load the guns and put the soldiers under arms. By six o'clock they overtook them ; they called to them in Japanese, requesting they would come on board ; but of this they appeared afraid. After having sailed twice round the ship, and considered it with the greats. -t attention, they hauled up their sails, and returned toward the town. On the 4th they were nearly opposite the middle of the Straits of Sangar, in which, even from the mast-head, they were unable to perceive any land ; but on both sides, to the eastward of Cape Sangar and Cape Nadeshda, were several promontories. The line of coast from Cape Nadeshda to Cape SineJiO is north-west, the distance between the two being eighteen miles. Between these, in a large but open bay, is the town of Matumay, whose name the Japanese have extended to the whole Island of Jeso : it is of considerable size, and the residence of the governor ; but is the only town of any magnitude in the whole island. Before they had wea- thered a long point of Jeso, they perceived a boat with four of the natives rowing off They continued about a quarter of an hour alongside the ship, but could not be prevailed upon to come on board, and at length returned. However, they had scarcely cast anchor when several paid them a visit, who immediately came on board without the least signs of fear. As they came on deck they fell on their knees, laid their two hands on their heads, passing them down their faces and their bodies, at the CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 409 came time that they made a low bow. On the 1 1th, at nine in the morning, some Japanese arrived with an officer at their head, in a large boat, rowed by the natives of the island. The officer appeared extremely alarmed at their arrival, requesting most earnestly they would immediately sail from hence. The Japanese discipline exists even here, the farthest boundary of their possessions, in all its force. The officer could in nowise be per- suaded to accept a trifling present which the ambassador offered him, and even refused to take a glass of Japanese sakky, their favourite beverage. They now steered toward Aniwa Bay ; the west side of which is throughout very mountainous, and even now was covered in part with snow. At ten, next morning, Krusenstern went with the ambassador on board a Japanese ship, where they were handsomely received, and treated with sakky, rice bread, and tobacco. The manner in which fish are caught here is a sufficient demonstration of their abundance ; as they do not even employ a net for this purpose, but dip for them with a pail du- ring the ebb. This article is so important, and is become so necessary to the poor people in the north of Japan, that the most absolute orders of their government could not prevent them from coming to Aniwa Bay to procure them, let the possessors of Aniwa be who they would ; and in all probability they might obtain them at a much more reasonable rate from Europeans than from their avaricious banjos. The Ainos, or natives of Jeso, are rather below the middle stature, being at the most five feet two or four inches high, of a dark, nearly black, complexion, with a thick, bushy beard, black, rough hair, hanging straight down ; and, excepting the beard, they have the appearance of the Kam- tschatdales, only that their countenance is much more regular. The women are sufficiently ugly : their colour, which is equally dark, their coal-black hair combed over their faces, blue-painted lips, and tattooed hands, added to no remarkable cleanliness in their clothing, do not give them any great pretensions to loveliness. The characteristic quaUty of an Aino is good- ness of heart, which is expressed in the strongest manner in his coun- tenance ; and, so far as they were enabled to observe their actions, they fully answered this expression. Their dress consists chiefly of the skins of tame dogs and seals ; but some were in a very diffisrent attire, which resembled the Parkis of the Kamtschatdales, and is, properly speaking, a white shirt worn over their other clothes. In Aniwa Bay they were all cl ..d in furs ; their boots were made of seal-skins, and in these likewise the women were invariably clothed. On the 28th they had a high wind from west-north-west, which in- creased toward evening to a storm, and, conceiving themselves to be but only a. short distance from the Kuriles, lay-to under a reefed topsail and storm-sails. Next day the wind had become so moderate that they were enabled to carry all sail ; and at eight o'clock perceived, at a short distance, a high peak, which must have been the twelfth island, or that called Matua. The sirait between these two, from the description of the Kuriles in Pallas's new northern editions, is thirty miles wide, and per- fectly safe ; but in Sarytscheff's chart it is only twenty. At two in the afternoon of the 3d of June discovered the coast of Kamtschatka. The wind continued moderate from the south-east, and it was not until the 6th that they cast anchor in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, forty- eight days after leaving Nangasaki. On the 5th of July Krusenstern proceeded from this harbour to examine what was called Sachalin Island, but which is now known to be a penin- sula of Tartary. The narrative affords only nautical details, of n© general 35 410 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. interest whatever ; on the north part of it were found Tartar inhabitants, and on the south Japanese, each of which seem to have usurped their authority from the Ainos, or proper natives. On the 30th of August re- turned to Kamtschaika, where their speedy return excited some surprise and fear. The first prospect of St. Peter and St. Paul might raise in the mind of a person newly arrived, and ignorant of this Russian estabUshment, the idea of its being a colony founded a few years, but recently abandoned. Nothing is visible here that could at all persuade any one of its being in- habited by civilized people : not only Awatsha Bay, but the three ad- joining ones, are entirely forlorn and uninhabited ; nor is the beautiful harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul enlivened by a single boat. Instead ol this, the shores are strewed with stinking fish, among which a number ol half-starved dogs are seen wallowing and contending for possession. It is perfectly in vain that you look about, upon landing, for even one well- built house : m vain does the eye seek a road, or even a well-beaten path, along which a person may walk in safety to the town : no garden, no meadow, no plantation nor enclosure of any kind, indicative of the least cultivation ; the only things to be perceived are a few huts, mostly m a decayed state, Balagans and Jurien. Instead of bridges over the few small brooks that flow from the neighbouring mountains into the valley where the town stands, are merely planks laid across them, and these only passable with the greatest attention. Five or six cows feeding in the vicinity of the houses, and innumerable dogs lying about in holes, which they dig as resting-places and as a shelter against the flies, render it, if not impossible, at least extremely dangerous, to walk after dark. Those who have resided several years in the interior of the country concur in the opinion of the climate of the north, but especially of the middle provinces of Kamtschatka being infinitely superior to the sou- thern parts, particularly near Werchnoy and on the banks of the Kam- tschatka River, where the soil is invariably very fruitful. The length of the winter is no obstacle to cultivation ; it reigns equally long in the northern provinces of Russia and in Siberia, where the vegetation is so extremely rapid, that, notwithstanding the shortness of the summer, several spe- cies of corn are brought to perfection. In the interior of Kamtschatka many kinds of vegetables are cultivated, and every sort of corn ; but not a sufficiency for the use of the inhabitants and of the military. As to the climate of Kamtschatka, it is not so bad as it is represented ; that the frequent fogs prevent any vegetables from coming to perfection is merely an excuse made by the inhabitants in order not to work, their indolence knowing no bound, the immoderate use of spirits rendering them incapa- ble of every exertion ; for the officers who are garrisoned there, and who have laid out gardens for themselves, produce (with the exception of peas and beans) almost every kind of vegetable necessary for the table, and, indeed, in such quantity, that they were enabled to supply the Na- deshda with a considerable stock. If, therefore, the cultivation of these plants succeede in two or three gardens, it is very evident that every inhabitant, every soldier, might obtain a supply of cabbages, carrots, and, at any rate, of potatoes for his own use, sufficient in some degree to se- cure him against the scurvy, so common here in the winter months, from the total want of vegetable and animal food. The reason why this is not done is, that they do not begin to cultivate their gardens until the early part of July, so that the seeds do not come to anything before the end of that month. If the possessor of a garden, or, to speak more correctly, CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 41 1 any industrious person, (for it is open to every one to cultivate as much land as he pleases,) were to begin to till his ground in May, there is no doubt but that he might furnish his table throughout the summer, not only with salads, radishes, cucumbers, &c., but also with cabbage, which they obstinately refuse to plant, and peas and beans in perfection. At an ostrog, or small village in Awatsha, near the mouth of the river of that name, the captain saw, in the month of June, a small garden in blossom, at the very same time that they were maintaining, at St. Peter and St. Paul, that it was still too early to plant ; because they have never been in the habit of doing so before the month of July. It may not be superfluous to say something on the mode of living of the Russians in Kamtschatka, which will account for the great mortality that reigns there. There is scarcely any difference between the life of the officer, the merchant, the priest, or the soldier ; the one may, indeed, possess more money than the other ; but as money is not held here in any estimation, this naturally produces a great equality in their rank, at least in their mode of living. Nor does this prejudice the discipline of the troops ; the soldier feels less than any one the distress that reigns in Kamtschatka, not only because the Russian soldier is accustomed from his infancy to forego the comforts of life, (and he only then feels the hardship of his lot when he does not meet with that indulgence which is due from the officer to him, or experiences any injustice in the service,) but because the soldiery there have an opportunity of enriching themselves which is not open to the officers, and there are at this time many who possess several houses. In the winter, for instance, when they are not upon duty, they are allowed to go sable-hunting, and a soldier will verj frequently earn from three to five hundred roubles in the course of the season ; but as most of them are unmarried, and can purchase nothing but spirits for their money, their earnings are as speedily squandered. There can be no doubt that the married men, at least, would make a better use of their money if any opportunity were afforded them ; for a great change was very soon observable in the dress of the people of St. Peter and St. Paul, especially of the women, after the arrival of the Na- deshda. How easy would it be to supply Kamtschatka with every neces- sary, by sending a ship there annually, direct from any Russian European port ; the prices of every article would not only fall several hundreds per cent., in the same manner as spirits fell shortly after their arrival from twenty to sixty roubles the stof, and sugar from seven roubles to one and a half the pound, but even the north-eastern part of Siberia might be sup- plied at a much lower price with a variety of foreign goods, from St. Peter and St, Paul itself, than it can by an overland carriage across the whole of Russia and Siberia. It may serve as a proof of what has been here asserted, that several articles put on board the Nadeshda by the Ameri- can company were sent from thence to Ochotsk for sale. The difficulty of conveyance from the European provinces of Russia to Ochotsk, and from thence to Kamtschatka, has hitherto been assigned as the reason why the inhabitants of this province are not only suffered to want all the comforts of life, but even many of the necessaries. Gin is the only article which the merchants never suffer to be wanted. The propensity to strong liquors is greater there than at other places, and is besides more pardonable, as the merchants endeavour by every means to keep it up ; and a bout of drinkmg with some of their companions (which is seldom done at less expense than fifty roubles) is the only means which they have of disposing of their troublesome, but hard-earned, winnings. 412 ' VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. Bread and salt are two articles invariably possessed by the poorest beggar in Europe ; but in Kamtschatka, where, owing to the increased number of the military, the consumption of bread is very considerable, and the conveyance is so very difficult and expensive, the soldier obtains only half his ration in flour, and the other half in money, yet never to an amount sufficient to enable him to purchase it ; for the merchant of Kamtschatka will not import flour, because it is frequently injured during the journey, by which means the cost is sacrificed, while, on the contrary, gin is always sure to produce a clear and immediate profit ; and flour has no established price at Kamtschatka, although it is generally estimated at ten roubles the pud. The soldier's pay is never sufficient to purchase it at this rate ; and it would be infinitely better for him if he received bis flour in kind ; nor can it be imagined that there would ever be a superfluity of this article in Kamtschatka, not only because the soldier does not actually receive his customary schtschy and meat, but also be- cause the flour is very much injured by the length of the overland con- veyance in leathern skins, and the full delivery can never be baked. This is likewise the case with grits. Fish they never experience the want of, and during the summer season it afTords them a wholesome and agreeable nourishment ; but in winter they are reduced to eat it in a dried state, (in which condition it is called jukula, in Kamtschatka,) and without anything to relish it ; and such diet, when long continued, cannot but be extremely injurious to health. The scarcity of salt is still greater than that of bread : on their arrival a few pounds of salt were considered as a valuable pre- sent ; and great as was their partiality for spirits, those who brought fish, berries, or game, were infinitely more thankful for a little of the former than when they rewarded their labours with gin, which they scarcely ever gave to them. If there were no want of salt, and it were sold at a just and reasonable price, the inhabitants would not be compelled to eat their fish in a dried state ; salt fish would at any rate prove an agreeable change ; and how many other occasions are there for this most necessary article. Every soldier receives a pound of salt monthly, but the Kam- tschatdale gets none. In the vicinity of St Peter and St. Paul there were two salt-pans, which once produced a sufficiency for the comsump- tion of whole of Kamtschatka, but they have both been suffered to go to ruin for some years past ; probably because the conveyance of the kettles and other necessary articles, by laud, was considered as too difficult. On their arrival a pailful of very bad gin cost ] 60 roubles, and a stof twenty. This price was estabhshed by the actual governor ; for, previous to his time, the merchants, whose avarice is unbounded, and who were well assured that the propensity to gin-drinking would not be diminished by any exorbitance of price, had already increased it to more than 300 roubles the pailful. The price of sugar is usually from four to five roubles the pound, but often rises to seven ; tobacco, five roubles ; butter and salt one and one and a half roubles the pound. Soap, candles, &c., are seldom to be had under two roubles the pound. Many other necessary articles of housekepping are in a like proportion ; but it is seldom that even the greatest necessaries are to be procured. ' Rum, brandy, wine, coflfee, spices, vinegar, mustard, oil, rice, flour, butter, and other similar articles, which are to be met with in the poorest villages of Russia, are never im- ported for sale ; neither are any of those necessary for clothing, with the exception of some very coarse linen, silk handkerchiefs, and blue nankeen. The officers procure from Irkutsk the cloth and other things requisite for their uniforms, but always at a very expensive rate. Slack bread, and CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 413 fish dressed without sauce or spice, without salt, vinegar, or pepper, are the only provisions which the officers, as well as the men, are able, for a constancy, to set upon their tables. There is nothing a hardy soldier will not endure so long as he is in good health ; but if he falls sicks, to what a wretched, miserable, helpless condition is he reduced. No physician, no medicine, no reviving draught, nor strengthening diet, are to be pro- cured at St. Peter and St. Paul ; he cannot even struggle against death, which seizes him in this most painful condition. At St. Peter and St. Paul the number of horned cattle amounted to ten cows and, perhaps, as many young heifers ; there was, consequently, no butter, and very little milk. It would be extremely easy to support some hundred head there, as not only close to St. Peter and St. Paul, but on the banks of the Awatsha River, there is plenty of the finest grass, if there were a sufficiency of men to collect a quantity of hay equal to the support of so large a flock during a long winter, independent of the mili- tary, who, indeed, constitute the greater part of the inhabitants, and are so much employed in other works. The breeding of hogs is difficult, owing to the scarcity of corn ; but it would be easier to have sheep, goats, and poultry, the former requiring nothing but good hay. Although m the vicinity of St. Peter and St. Paul they met with no short delicate grass, there can be no doubt that these species exist in these pzu-ts. Most of the inhabitants suffer from scurvy throughout the winter. Of five people whom they had brought as passengers to Kamtschatka, and who had been in perfect health during the whole voyage, they found, on their return from Japan, only one in good health, the rest having suffered very much during the winter from this disorder. The prospect of any in- crease of the inhabitants of Kamtschatka was very much diminished, jiot only by the smallness of the number of the remaining Russians and Kam- tschatdales, but by that of the women bearing no kind of proportion to the men. At St. Peter and St. Paul, where the number of inhabitants, in- cluding the military, amounts to one hundered and fifty or one hundred and eighty persons, there are not twenty- five females. The Kamtschatdales never inhabit the towns built by the Russians, but live scattered about the interior of the country, in small villages, called ostrogs, of different dimensions. Since the last epidemic disorder, in the years 1800 and 1801, during which 5,000 Kamtschatdales perished, it is very rare to meet more than fifteen or twenty persons in an ostrog ; in many there are scarcely the half of this number, although there may be others where the population is more extensive. Such an ostrog is under the immediate command of a tayon, or chief, who is chosen from among the inhabitants, and whose character is similar to that of a starost, or elder, in the Russian villages. Under him he has an officer, who bears the title of jessaul, and who, properly speaking, holds the executive authority of the ostrog, as the tayon does no more than deliver his orders to him. In the absence of the tayon the jessaul assumes his place, and the eldest Kamtschatdale in the ostrog takes upon him that of the jessaul. The tayon's power is considerable, since it even extends to the inflicting of corporal punishments, though these must never exceed twenty lashes. They generally select as tayon an active Kamtschatdale, who has dis- tinguished himself by his good conduct. His duty consists, besides the discharge of the internal regulations of his ostrog, in collecting the best sables, which each Kamtschatdale pays annually as a tribute, and carry- ing them, sealed up, to the town, where they are examined in the presence of certain magistrates, and taxed by a person authorized by the crown 35» 414 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. The amount of the duties to be paid by the ostrog in then deducted from the value of the sables, and whatever there is exceeding it is paid in money to the tayon, who divides it proportionally among the inhabitants of his ostrog The annual taxes of the Kamtschatdales amount, exclusive of the capitation tax, to about three roubles, which, however, are not paid in money, but in sables, in the manner above described. In the winter they are obliged to conduct travellers and couriers from one ostrog to another ; they supply the dogs of those who travel with jukula ; they also lodge the travellers ; this, however, they are not obliged to do. This hospitable people has, of its own accord, engaged to lodge every traveller, and to feed his dogs without demanding any remuneration In every ostrog there is a supply of fish set apart for this purpose. In general, the governor and all officers keep dogs, so that in this respect they are not burthensome to the Kamtschatdaleo. These people, in spite of their extreme poverty, are an example of honesty : in this respect it is altogether impossible to exceed them, and it is as rare to find a cheat among the Kamtschatdales as a man of property. Travellers, on their arrival in any ostrog, usually give their money, papers, and valuables, and ■eren their stock of brandy, tea, sugar, tobacco, &c., into the hands of the tayon, and there is no instance of any one having been robbed to the smallest extent. On the 9th of October quitted St. Peter and St. Paul, and on the 20th of November, without any event of consequence, anchored at Macao, where, the 3d of December, they were joined by the Neva, with a cargo of furs from the coast of America. On the 9th of February they left Canton ; the ships separated the 15th of April, reaching St. Helena the 3d of May. August 19th, 1806, anchored in safety at Cronstadt, after an absence of three years and twelve days, without the loss of one man of the ship's crew. CAPTAIN FREYCINET.— 1818-1820. The Urania was fitted out at Toulon in the early part of 1817, and furnished with every article necessary for a long voyage ; she received a picked crew, and her officers were distinguished by the extent of their knowledge. Contrary winds obliged them to put into Gibraltar on the 11th of Oc- tober, and she did not arrive at Santa Cruz, in the Island of TenerifFe, before the 22d of the same month. On the 6th day of December Cape Frio was observed, and its geogra- phical position verified. The Urania entered Rio de Janeiro the same night, where she remained until the 29th of January. The passage from Rio Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope was marked by a melancholy event, which deprived M. de Freycinet of one of his ablest colleagues. M. Laborde, an officer of distinguished merit, an ac- curate observer, a good draughtsman, and who joined to these excellent qualities a character the most sociable, died in the flower of his age. The Urania remained in Table Bay from the 7th of March till the 5th of April, and from thence she sailed to Port Louis, in the Isle of France, where they arrived on the 5th of May. Port Louis, placed nearly in the same latitude as Rio de Janeiro, and at a distance of more than 100 degrees in longitude, was favourably situated for observations respecting the pendulum. Those were made in M. DE PREYCINET. 415 detail, as well as experiments, the objects of which were to enlarge the study of magnetism, and of meteorology. A very considerable damage, which had torn oflF the copper-sheathing of the Urania, did not allow them to put to sea until the 16th of July. The corvette stopped only some days at the Isle of Bourbon to take in provisions, and then directed her course toward the coast of New Hol- land, the northern extremity of which was seen on the 11th of Sep- tember, 1818. The Urania coasted along at a moderate distance ; and having fallen in with Endracht's Land, she followed it until she arrived at the entrance of Sea-Dog's Bay, from whence, after a short stay, she sailed on the 13th of September, to the anchorage before the peninsula of Peron. An observatory was at fu'st established on shore, and then they were employed in procuring, by means of distillation, water fit to be drank. Two stills had been shipped at Toulon for this purpose. Numerous de- fects, which it may probably be easy to remedy in other vessels, rendered almost null the products of the apparatus placed on board the corvette ; but that which was put up on shore gave, in sufficient abundance, water pleasant to drink, and in which they could discover no noxious quality. The Urania sailed on the 26th of September ; the intention of M. de Freycinet being to sail for Timor, in order to ascertain some points respect- mg its geographical positions, of which he had doubts. He consequently sailed near the Isles of Dorre and Bernier, which he coasted along at a good distance to the eastward, and in shallow water ; when, the corvette having struck on a sand-bank, he was obliged to abandon the labour begun, and to bear off from the shore. This event had no disagreeable consequence ; the time passed at the anchorage on the bank was employed in exploring its figure and sounding ; and M. de Freycinet gave it the name of the Bank of Urania. The corvette proceeded on her course, and cast anchor in the Bay of Coupang, in the Island of Timor, after having coasted on the west side of the Isles of Limas and Retti, which belong to that archipelago. The inhabitants of Coupang were then only busied in preparations for the war which the Dutch government was going to make on the Rajah, Louis d'Amanoebang. This circumstance rendered it difficult to purchase the provisions neces- sary to victual the corvette ; but it did not hmder the scientific operations, which were carried on with the greatest zeal, in spite of the excessive height of the temperature : at the observatory it stood, at times, at 133 degrees of Fahrenheit, while in the shade it was from 106 to 111. The Urania sailed from Coupang on the 23d of October, 1818, very badly provisioned, and with several men attacked with dysentery. Calms and contrary currents detained them a long time between Timor and Ombay. This was taken advantage of to visit the village of Bitoca : it is situated on the south coast of the latter of these islands ; has been, till now, little frequented by Europeans, and it is peopled by a warlike and ferocious race, some of whom are anthropophagites. Meanwhile, the number of dysenteric patients increased on board the corvette, and all the skill of M. Quoy, the surgeon, was not sufficient to overcome the influence of a devouring climate. The harbour of Coupang had furnished them with but few refreshments ; it became therefore neces- sary to take a new station at Timor, and accordingly the Urania anchored at Diely, the chief place among the Portuguese establishments on the north coast of that island. 416 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. A most obliging reception was given to the expedition by Don Josa Pinto Alcoforado d'Azevedo e Souza ; and the corvette was abundantly provisioned, through his care, with everything that she wanted. Their stay here was only for five days, after which the Urania bent her course still along the coast of Timor, in order to get through the straits to the eastward of Vitters, by the channel that separates that isle from those of Kiffer and Roma. On the 29th of November they were in sight of Ceram and Amboyna, and stretching into the strait between the latter island and Bournu, they bent their course toward the Isle of Gasse, which they doubled to the eastward at a small distance, during a violent storm. A great number of isles were observed, among which the most remarkable are those of Damoter, Gilolo, and Gu6be. In this passage the Urania fell in with several armed canoes belonging to the Kimalaha of Gu6b6. This prince came on board, and passed an entire day with them, during which his fine flotilla towed astern of the corvette. It was to the Isle Gu6be that M. de Pavre was sent formerly by M. de Coetiva, to take drawings of the nutmeg trees, which have since multiplied so much in the Indian and American colonies. The Gu6beans recollected that circumstance very well, of which they were themselves the first to speak ; and M. de Freycinet attributes to their former relations with the French the very particular amity which they testified toward him. The Urania, continuing her track, passed, on the 12th of December, the strait which separates the Isle of Mondox from Gueb6, and stretched to the eastward ; she ran some risk in the strait formed by the Isles of Rouib and of Balabalak, and by the Wyag Islands, where, during a calm, violent currents set upon shallows : but she was fortunately able to keep her anchorage, and to wait for such winds as permitted her to keep her way until she had got clear of that perilous situation. She cast anchor, on the 16th of December, at the Isle of Rawak, after having at a short distance coasted along the northern side of Waigion, An observatory was established on shore, and its position, in latitude only H minutes south, was the most favourable for experiments with the pendulum which they could get under the equator. The period of this stay was employed in researches respecting geography and natural history. Two or three days before they sailed, they heard on a sudden the martial music of tom-toms, kettle-drums, &c. Some moments after there appeared, at the large point of the island, the fleet of the Kimalaha of Gueb6, who, faithful to his promise, had come to pay the visit he had before announced. This little squadron presented a spectacle at once imposing and whimsical. The Guebean prince was accompanied by his brothers and sons, to the number of eight ; all, like himself, of good mien, and remarkable for their intelligence. They remained on board until the moment of the corvette's departure ; they gave, as presents to M. de Freyoinet, various curiosities of their country, and among others, hats made of straw interwoven with talc, worked with admirable art. Having sailed from Rawak on the 5th of January, 1819, the Urania stretched toward the Ayon Isles, which they saw on the 6th and 8th of the same month. The dysentery continued still to torment the crew ; it was long before It was joined to fevers, one of the first victims of which was M. Labiche, the second lieutenant, an officer of great merit and of the most amiable disposition. This was the second loss of the kind during the voyage, and It was keenly felt. M. DE FREYCINET. 417 After having visited several of the Caroline Isles, which are not pointed out on the maps, and having received throughout the most friendly recep- tion from the islanders, M. de Freycinet arrived, on the 17th of May, in sight of the Isle of Guam, and cast anchor on the night of the same day in the roadstead of Humata. This delay, and that which the corvette made at Port San Louis, in the same island, restored health to the crew ; thanks to the generous eagerness with which the governor, Don Jose de Medinillo y Pineda, anticipated all the wants of the expedition, by pro- curing them refreshments and comforts of all kinds. M. de Freycinet appears to have collected, respecting the people of the Marianne Islands, information more. extensive than that with which pre- ceding voyagers have enriched their accounts. He gives various details respecting their manners, language, and laws, as well as that singular government of which much has been said, and in which the women act an important part. Two months were employed in making these researches ; and at the same time they were occupied with those observations and experiments which formed the principal object of the expedition. M. de Medinillo had, during all this time, the kindness to provide the corvette abundantly with fresh provisions, to which he added provisions for the voyage, and for which he afterward refused to accept any reimbursement. The course of the Urania, from Guam to the Sandwich Islands, presents nothing remarkable. On the 5th of August, 1819, she made the Island of Owyhee, and anchored in the Bay of Harahona in three days after. Tamahama, king of the Sandwich Isles, was dead ; his palace had been reduced to ashes, and almost all the hogs on the island had been slaugh- tered on account of his obsequies, according to the custom of the country, which was a real disappointment in the revictualling the corvette. Uno Rio, the eldest son and successor of Tamahama, enjoyed at that time but a badly-established authortv. The chiefs, compelled to submit to the arms of his father, raising extraordinary pretensions, caused him to dread an approachmg war. He came with his wives and a numerous suite on board the Urania, on the occasion of the baptism of one of th» principal chiefs of the island. That ceremony was performed with much pomp by the Abb6 Quelen, chaplain of the vessel. The Sandwich Islands were, like the Marianne, the object of t>h0 assiduous researches of M. de Freycinet and of the officers under his command. Numerous observations were made in search of the magnetic equator and its inflexions, in the Great Ocean. On the 30th of August the Urania sailed from Port Jackson, passing through the islands of the Austral Polynesia. By taking this track, the position of the dangerous Isle of Byron was rectified, as well as that of the Island of Pyletant, the most southerly of the Friendly Islands, and also that of Howe Island. A new island, surrounded by dangerous reefs, was discovered to the east of Tonga, which M. de Freycinet named Rose Island. The Urania anchored in Port Jackson on the 18th of November, 1819 ; she remained there till the 25th of December, and this interval was em- ployed, as at all the preceding stoppages, in scientific inquiries. M. de Freycinet speaks in this respect with gratitude for the assistance afforded to him by General Macquarie, the goTernor of the colony. On quitting Port Jackson, the course of the corvette was shaped to pass between Van Dieman's Land and New Zealand. On the 7th of January, 18a0, the southern extremity of the latter islands was doubled 418 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. in sight of Campbell's Island. From that moment until nearing the coast of Terra del Fuego the winds were constantly favourable. The Urania reached 59 degrees of south latitude, and she found floating ice in the 54th degree. On the 5th of February the coast of Terra del Fuego was seen in the neighbourhood of Cape Desolation ; the season was as frightful as the adjoining shores. In the impossibihty of reaching Christmas Harbour, it became necessary to make for the Bay of Good Success, in the Straits of Le Maire ; but scarcely had the anchor dropped, when a furious storm caused the ship to drive. There was not a moment to be lost in cutting the cable and setting sail with all speed, to get out of the bay, and she skirted at a very short distance the rocks and breakers which lie upon its north point. This tempest lasted two days, and drove the vessel considerably to the northward, which determined M. de Freycinet to bear up for the Falkland Islands, in sight of which they arrived on the 14th of February, accord- ing to their reckoning, but the 13th according to European time, they having gained a day in circumnavigating the globe. The Urania was lost in consequence of striking on a sunken rock at the entrance of French Bay, in the Falkland Islands, when they were taken off by an American whaler, and taken first to Rio Janeiro and after- ward to Havre de Grace, where they arrived with most of the collections made during the voyage, on the 13th of November, 1820. THE END. 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. MARll J968-V APP rj ♦rn _Q 1 ^M 1 MPn J 00 O ' ITI 1 LD 2lA-45m-9,'67 (H50678l0)476B General Libf University of C- Berkeley