Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2008 with funding from 
 
 Microsoft Corporation 
 
 http://www.a'rchive.Grg/details/allvoyagesroundwOOgaltrich 
 
ALL THE 
 
 VOYAGES 
 
 ROUND THE WOULD, 
 
 FROM THE FIRST BV 
 
 MAGELLAN, IN 1520, 
 
 TO THAT or 
 
 FREYCINET, IN 1 820. 
 
 NOW FIRST COLLECTED, 
 
 BY CAPT. SAMUEL PRIOK. 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 WILLIAM H. COLYER, No. 6 HAGUE-STREET, 
 # 1844. 
 
 Mj-^'^U' ■ 
 
4 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 
 Date. Page. 
 
 Ferdinand Magellan 1519 27 
 
 Sir Tr incis Drake 1.577 36 
 
 Sir Ihomas Cavendish 1586 44 
 
 Oliver Van Noort. 1598 51 
 
 Captain William Dampier 1683 67 
 
 Mr. Cowley 1083 93 
 
 Captain Woodes Rogers 1708 98 
 
 Captain John Clipperton 1719 132 
 
 Captain George Shelvock 1719 140 
 
 Admiral Joris Spilbergen 1614 149 
 
 Jacob Le Maire and Wilhelm Cornelisz Schouten . . . 1615 154 
 
 Admiral Jacob L'Heremite 1623 161 
 
 Admiral Jacob Roggevv'ein 1721 165 
 
 Commodore George Anson 1740 168 
 
 Commodore Byron 1764 183 
 
 Captain Samuel Wallia 1766 191 
 
 Captain Carteret 1766 200 
 
 Mons. De Bougainville 1766 208 
 
 M. De Pages 1767 219 
 
 Captain James Cook 1768 228 
 
 (Second Voyage) 1772 248 
 
 (Third Voyage) 1776 267 
 
 Captains Portlock and Dixon 1785 290 
 
 M. De la Perouse 1785 298 
 
 Captain Edward Edwards 1790 816 
 
 Captain George Vancouver 1791 322 
 
 Captain Etienne Marchand 1790 346 
 
 Missionary Voyage , 1796 353 
 
 Captain D'Entrecasteaux 1791 374 
 
 Mr. John TurnbuU 1800 378 
 
 Captain Krusenstern 1803 396 
 
 Captain Freycinet ....• 1818 414 
 
 Maii780 
 
PREFACE 
 
 An arrangement of all the voyages which have been made round the 
 world, within the compass of a moderate-sized volume, seems to be one 
 of those wants which modern literature has been, for some years, called 
 upon to supply ; offering, as it does, not merely much solid information, 
 with the greatest amusement, but because it is adapted to every age, sex, 
 and condition in life. It is one of those never-failing sources of plea- 
 sure, which may claim a constant place on the parlour-table, in the school- 
 room, and in the library ; which can never be taken up without instruction, 
 nor put down without regret ; which offers the results of much skill and 
 adventure, without the labours or dangers necessary to gain ihem by 
 experience. 
 
 Such a work elucidates several points which astronomy has taught ; it 
 exemplifies to the student in geography much of what he has learned, 
 stamping the conclusions of science and theory with the evidences of 
 facts. For a familiar acquaintance with the people of distant countries, 
 and with the figure and peculiarities of the earth, which voyages round 
 the world tend so eminently to teach, are among the first offerings of the 
 practical navigator to the science which first taught him it was probable 
 he might be enabled to sail round the globe he is destined to inhabit. 
 
 The distinguishing characteristic of the human mind being an invincible 
 spirit of inquiry, which disdains to rest satisfied with the simple impres- 
 sions communicated by the external senses, it was, in all probability, one 
 of the first desires of the first men who tenanted the earth, to gain, not 
 only a more intimate, but comprehensive acquaintance with its peculiar 
 qualities and figure. 
 
 To them it would naturally appear, as it does to the vulgar even of 
 the present day, a vast plain, extending they know not where, fixed they 
 know not how, diversified by various productions, studded with hill and 
 dale, rock and sand, wood and water, but still essentially a plain. To 
 conceive anything else, was, indeed, unlikely in the infancy of society. 
 Art had not time to do much for it, and science nothing. Knowledge, 
 we know, is but of slow growth, laboriously and scantily quarried from 
 obscurity by human wit for human uses ; neither had men yet congre- 
 gated in those vast masses which, by the continual collision of individuals, 
 at length elicit light and truth of every description. If society has occa- 
 sioned some of our vices, it has also been the parent of most of our 
 milder virtues, and of all our information. Man, had he been alwaya 
 solitary, had been always barbarous and ignorant. 
 
 The sea was an object so truly wonderful in itself, its qualities and 
 phenomena were so peculiar, its extent so boundless, and the difficulty 
 of traversing or examining it so great in the early ages of mankind, 
 that we may well conceive, while they wondered at its nature, they could 
 form no idea of its uses. They could not imagine that its riches vied 
 with those of the land ; that its contents ascended in the form of vapour, 
 and again descended in showers to fertilize that land ; that it occupied 
 much the larger portion of the globe they inhabited ; and that, in time, 
 it was to form the best and speediest means of communication betweea 
 
 1* 
 
Vi PREFACE. 
 
 distant couniries, and thus to become the parent of knowledge, commerce, 
 and civihzation. 
 
 Its superfices, according to the best calculations, occupies 131,701,440 
 miles, or about two-thirds of that of the whole earth. Philosophers 
 have long speculated about its probable depth, without arriving at any 
 certain conclusion. Some suppose that its bed is not more below than 
 the hills are above the general level of the earth, which, if true, would 
 make it, at most, in particular spots, between five and six miles deep. 
 Buffon considers that its bed is equally irregular with all other surfaces, 
 which we have better opportunities for examining ; that there are num- 
 berless depths and shallows ; that the greatest depths exist in the vicinity 
 of the highest lands, and vice versa ; and that the medium depth of the 
 whole ocean does not, in all probability, exceed one-fourth of a mile. To 
 this there seems no solid objection. The inaccuracy of our knowledge 
 on the point arises from the incompetency of our instruments for sound- 
 ing, none having yet been invented likely to answer the purpose at any 
 considerable distance from the surface of the sea, though one instance is 
 recorded where it was sounded so far as a mile and sixty-six feet. 
 
 The existence, however, of so many islands scattered in all the oceans, 
 affords proof that the sea, far from increasing in depth as we recede from 
 the shore, on the contrary, frequently shallows ; and that while some of 
 these irregularities appear as islands above the surface of the water, 
 there are others not so high, known to the navigator as shoals against 
 which he has to guard. Added to these, there are many thousands more 
 of still less elevation, which neither the eye nor the lead-and-line can 
 reach, every practical sailor knowing that he cannot always depend 
 upon the latter at a greater depth than 100, or, perhaps, 150 fathoms, but 
 most commonly not so much. Nor is there, in general, much attejition 
 paid to this subject except when in the immediate vicinity of land. 
 
 As the mountains of the earth form its prominences, so the beds of 
 the different oceans constitute its concavities, of which the largest is 
 that of the Great Pacific, or South Sea, extending from the eastern shore 
 of New Holland to the western coast of America, and occupying nearly 
 one-half of our globe. The second in size is the Atlantic, connecting 
 Europe with America ; the Indian Ocean forms the third : to these may 
 be added the Arctic and Antarctic, the Mediterranean, Baltic, and other 
 seas, forming together an amazing body of water. The circumference 
 of the earth, according to geographers, does not exceed 24,912 miles. 
 To sail over this seems an arduous undertaking ; but, in fact, to encom- 
 pass it, as ships usually do, on account of contrary winds, currents, and 
 occasional variations from the direct track, it is necessary for circumnavi- 
 gators to traverse more than treble this space. 
 
 The knowledge of the figure of the earth, by which it was first sup 
 posed capable of being sailed round, has been gained solely from the 
 progressive improvements of astronomy. This science is supposed to 
 have made some progress among the antediluvians, whose lives, according 
 to Josephus, the Jewish historian, were purposely prolonged by Providence 
 for its advancement. Noah communicated all that was known on the 
 subject to the Chaldeans, by means of his immediate descendants. The 
 Egyptians succeeded to all the scientific acquirements of these people ; 
 and, according to some writers, first conjectured the earth to be spherical, 
 some time previous to the era of Solomon, the Jewish ruler, by obser- 
 ving the moon to fall into her shadow. This shrewdness of remark indi- 
 cated considerable advancement in the science. It is remarkable, however^ 
 that by one of those strange revolutions in empires, which history faiU 
 
PREFACE. VU 
 
 to record, and for which even tradition offers no explanation, this people 
 sunk from the summit of power and civilization to imbecility and bar- 
 barism ; so that, in the time of Augustus of Rome, astronomy, along 
 with every other science, had become nearly extinct in that country. 
 
 From Egypt, Thales carried its general principles among the Greeks. 
 Anaximander, however, seems early to have taught that the earth was 
 spherical ; but Pythagoras, especially, was the first who formed clear 
 views of the position and economy of all the heavenly bodies. About 
 440 years before Christ, Philolaus, a celebrated follower of Pythagoras, 
 endeavoured to prove that the earth revolved round the sun ; and, after 
 him, Hicetas, of Syracuse, asserted its diurnal motion on its own axis. 
 The Romans seem to have done little in this science. The darkness of 
 mind which peivaded all Europe after their fall, affected astronomy as 
 well as every other species of knowledge ; disregarded in Europe, they 
 took flight for a season into Arabia, where, amid the feats of arms and 
 the enchantments of poetry and romance, they were zealously fostered 
 by the caliphs, who were themselves not unfrequently among the most 
 enlightened philosophers of their dominions. Astronomy, more particu- 
 larly, was in this way frequently honoured. 
 
 The revival of letters produced a corresponding enlargement of science. 
 Several eminent astronomers adorned Germany and Italy. But it was 
 reserved for Christopher Columbus, who united much skill in this science 
 to a true idea of the figure of the earth, and great experience as a prac- 
 tical seaman, to propose to sail round, or rather across, it ; for, up to this 
 time, but one great ocean and one continent were supposed to constitute 
 our globe. To this great man, therefore, the first idea of circumnaviga- 
 tion, though not the full execution of the design, is justly due. He had 
 upheld it with a constancy as surprising as it was for a long time hope- 
 less, amid derision, neglect, and suspicion ; exposed, like aU other bene- 
 factors of mankind, to alternate insult and praise, to envy and injury, as 
 if a fatality attended those destined to enlighten or exalt their species ; or 
 Providence had ordained it as a drawback, in order to lessen a vanity 
 that might otherwise prove inordinate. 
 
 In 1513, Vasco Nunez de Bilboa discovering, for the first time, the 
 South Sea from the mountains of Panama, Ferdmand Magellan, a Portu- 
 guese officer, formed the scheme of entering it, and thus going round the 
 world ; for with the daily progress of discovery he had acquired clearer 
 views of its practicability. He opened his plans to the government, but 
 in vain ; ministers in all countries being prone to suspect the motives of 
 projects they do not properly appreciate or understand. Spain again, as 
 in the instance of Columbus, was applied to, and with similar good 
 effect. Charles the Fifth then wielded her sceptre, a prince whose 
 talents, nearly as great as his ambition, aiming at adding the whole of the 
 east to the finest part of Europe already in his possession, saw at once 
 the national glory, if not wealth, which would redound from the enter- 
 prise. He admitted the courageous projector to a formal interview, gave 
 him, though a foreigner, the chief command in opposition to much native 
 influence and prejudice, and by a liberality more frequently worthy of 
 imitation, added the honour of knighthood for making an attempt which 
 others would probably have awarded only to its successful accomplishment. 
 The generosity of the emperor stimulated the zeal of the navigator, for 
 no undertaking was ever more vigorously pursued or ably completed, 
 though, unfortunately, the adventurous leader did not Uve to reap th« 
 reward of his courage. 
 
vSi PREFACE. 
 
 The success of the enterprise fully settled the point of the rotundity 
 of the globe. To this conclusion nearly all the philosophers of the age 
 had already arrived. But politicians were not so easily convinced : and 
 one of the strongest objections to the attempt of Columbus, among the 
 courtiers of Ferdinand and Isabella, was, that he would probably go so 
 far as to be unable to return against the resistance offered by that very 
 convexity which was to assist him in proceeding. They did not consider 
 that the earth is so vast a mass as to answer every practical purpose of a 
 plain ; and that it would be no more difficult to return from any particular 
 point, than to go thither. 
 
 The spirit which actuated the early circumnavigators will be more 
 admired when we consider the great imperfections of navigation at that 
 time. Of correct longitude scarcely anything was known. No depen- 
 dance could be placed on the common reckoning in strange seas, where 
 unknown and irregular currents drove them to arid fro they knew not 
 whither ; while lunar observations and chronometers, the only true guides 
 of the mariner in our days, were utterly unknown. A meridian altitude 
 of the sun, indeed, indicated their position north or south, but everything 
 else was confided to Providence. 
 
 Their vessels also were extremely small, clumsily built, poorly provision- 
 ed, ill-fitted, on account of the backward state of seamanship, and ill-pro- 
 vided with stores to replace those destroyed in action or worn out by use. 
 The loss of a mast, a topsail, or an anchor, were to them dangerous 
 accidents ; while the unshipping of a rudder would probably have been 
 followed by immediate destruction. In short, we should scarcely trust 
 ourselves from Dover to Calais in vessels in which they successfully cir- 
 cumnavigated the globe. Few, at least, of ^ our boldest adventurers 
 would undertake such an expediton in vessels of thirty, fifty, or eighty 
 tons, thus fitted, provided, and navigated, as did the companions of Drake 
 and others of our ancient heroes. The only modern instance anything 
 like this, is that of the late Captain Flinders, of the royal navy. Being 
 wrecked on a sand-bank off the eastern shore of New Holland, he builfe 
 a small vessel, less than our Gravesend boats, out of the wreck, in which 
 he proceeded to Port Jackson, intending to continue his route in her to 
 England. Touching, however, at the Isle of France in his way, the de- 
 sign appeared to the French so desperate and improbable that his story 
 was not believed ; war had also taken place between the two countries, 
 and though provided with the passport of Napoleon to guard against 
 capture, was most cruelly and unjustly detained seven years in captivity 
 as a spy. He did not, therefore, ccwnplete his voyage, which would have 
 been half round the world, in the smallest vessel in which it has been 
 attempted since the days of Drake ; it was called the Cumberland, and 
 is still to be seen in the harbour of Port Louis, in Mauritius, 
 
 Among the most trying difficulties with which the early voyagers had 
 to contend, were the fears, superstitions, and insubordination of their 
 sea-nen. The latter, above all others, is the most arduous and appalling 
 to a commander. Enemies may be repulsed, the elements cannot bo 
 always adverse ; but against the mutinous spirit of our companions, those 
 who are constantly by our side, by whose exertions alone we can proceed, 
 and who have necessarily all the power in their own hands, what, in 
 general, can the voice of a captain or an officer or two effect 1 Even 
 this serious obstacle was commonly overcome, sometimes by great pru- 
 dence and management, and frequently, it must be confessed, by the 
 sacrifice of human life. Magellan executed some of his companions, 
 
PREFACE. IX 
 
 put a few to death by lees honourable means, and left others to drag out 
 a miserable existence among the most wretched savages. Drake follow- 
 ed the example. 
 
 Seamen, no doubt, often require strict discipline and superintendence. 
 Want of education, and ignorance of settled habits of life, added to 
 their ever-wandering mode of existence, occasionally inspire a restless- 
 ness of character against which it is necessary to guard, as it has some- 
 times led to great excesses, and even to the most serious crimes. Fatigued 
 by the monotony of their life, they desire a change ; and impatient of 
 continual restraint, frequently seek among savages that freedom, happiness, 
 and exemption from labour which they beheve to exist only in such a 
 community. It is thus that some of the South Sea islands contain hun- 
 dreds of English sailors. It is also true, that, with fewer personal com- 
 forts than any other class of men, their treatment by commanders is often 
 unduly severe. Some degree of tyranny has always prevailed at sea in 
 vessels of all nations ; nor was our own royal navy, till within these fevv 
 years, exempted from the charge ; but, in truth, the skipper of a collier is 
 quite as great a despot in his way as those of higher rank and pretension. 
 
 Another source of apprehension and difficulty to the early voyagers 
 was the disposition with which they might be received by the strange 
 nations inhabiting the countries of which they were in search, as want 
 of refreshments must continually bring them into contact. The know- 
 ledge of human nature was then so limited as to give rise to the most 
 extravagant conjectures concerning the inhabitants of this as well as of 
 the other world. The majority of people believed in witches and conju- 
 rers, in cunning dwarfs and monstrous giants, which the adventurers no 
 doubt expected to see, as well as many other wonders in the new 
 countries. It is remarkable that this idea was, in some measure, verified. 
 For the first strange people they met with, the Patagonians, proved of 
 extraordinary stature, though not, in fact, such giants as at first repre- 
 sented. Added to these were the usual dangers, common to all seamen, 
 of storms, shipwreck, famine, thirst, and the most horrible of all, from 
 which there is no hope and no retreat, namely, the calamity of fire. 
 When the variety and importance of all these difficulties are considered, 
 our admiration of those bravo men becomes as great as their views were 
 grand, and their courage invincible. 
 
 An interval of fifty-seven years elapsed from the expedition of Magel- 
 lan, when Drake, who had served in the West Indies against the Spa- 
 niards, struck out the novel scheme of cruising against them on the coasts 
 of Chili and Peru, to which countries no English vessel had yet pene- 
 trated, though a few adventurers had reached Panama, across the Isthmus 
 of Darien. Besides, the prospect of gaining wealth from the enemies 
 of his country, in itself an irresistible temptation, there was the farther 
 honour, by returning round the Cape of Good Hope, of being the second 
 circumnavigator. It is unnecessary to say this bold undertaking suc- 
 ceeded. Cavendish and others followed with equal success ; but Drake 
 may justly be termed the father of the bucaniers of the South Sea. 
 Of this celebrated association, which originated in the West Indies, and 
 occasionally extended its operations to the Pacific Ocean, to the continual 
 anxiety and terror of the Spaniards, it will be necessary to give some 
 account, as without it the following pages would be incomplete. 
 
 The name bucanier, which originally signified one who dried or smoked 
 flesh in the manner of the Indians, was given to the first French 
 settlers of St. Domingo, who hunted wild boars and cattle in order to 
 sell the hides and flesh to their more settled neighbours. They lived i" 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 huts built on patches of cleared ground, just sufficiently large to admit of 
 drying the skins. These spots were named Boucans, and the huts, 
 which were commonly only temporary, Ajoupas, terms borrowed from 
 the native Indians. With the more regular Spanish settlers of the same 
 island they were continually at war, and, therefore, concealment was in 
 some degree necessary, the motives of the Spaniards for this persecution 
 being jealousy of the presence of all other Europeans. 
 
 The tenants of the Boucans, having neither women nor children, con- 
 gregated in parties, each keeping a servant, who, being some recent 
 adventurer from Europe, was obliged to bind himself for three years to 
 an older bucanier in order to gain a footing in the community ; more a 
 companion, however, than a servant, the fruits of their labours were en- 
 joyed in common ; and in cases of death, the domestic regularly suc- 
 ceeded to the property of his master. In process of time, some, tired 
 of this occupation, settled as planters in the little island of Tortuga, 
 situated at a short distance from the north side of St. Domingo, to which 
 they were by degrees driven by the repeated massacres of the Spaniards. 
 Others commenced freebooters by sea, amply revenging npon thnt nation 
 the injuries sustained by their companions on land. Success continually 
 added to their confidence and to their numbers. They seldom, at first, 
 acted together ; but in parties of from fifty to two hundred men each, 
 embarked in small boats, ill-adapted either to war or security from the 
 elements, and would attack the largest vessels, overpowering them by a 
 desperate bravery which nothing could withstand. Thus they fought their 
 way to riches and power. Every additional prize afforded increased means 
 of capturing others ; till at length the Spaniards, afraid of proceeding 
 to sea, had their intercourse with the mother country nearly annihilated. 
 
 Although their vengeance was directed against this, their wealthiest 
 and bitterest enemy, other nations were not exempted from their depreda- 
 tions. When distressed for men, money, or ships, almost every stranger 
 became an enemy. Thus far they were pirates. The booty was regularly 
 divided into as many shares as there were men. None had a preference. 
 The leader of an enterprise, commonly elected only for the occasion, 
 among the most distinguished for skill and courage, enjoyed more honours, 
 but had no claim to greater emoluments than his associates, except what 
 the general voice chose to award when an enterprise proved profitable, 
 and had been ably conducted. 
 
 No fixed laws guided their proceedings. These were made upon the 
 spur of the occasion. But offences against the general good, such as 
 f)eculation or treachery, were severely and summarily punished, either by 
 death or by leaving the culprit upon a desert island. Such was the 
 certainty of punishment, or the sense of justice to each other, that few 
 instances of this kind occurred. Their behaviour verified the adage of 
 " Honesty among thieves ;" for though robbers by profession, none were 
 ever more equitable among themselves. Every share was chosen by lot. 
 The wounded were provided for by a certain sum, and an allowance 
 during cure. The companion or servant of a member killed, received 
 his share. If he had none, it was transmitted to his relations ; or if 
 these were unknown, given to the poor or to churches, to apologize for 
 misdeeds neither repented of nor discontinued. They seldom went to 
 gca except when in want of money, and, when gained, it was as quickly 
 s;ient. Jamaica commonly formed the resort of the English, and St. 
 Domingo of the French, where the fruits of their cruises being soon 
 dissipated in rioting and debauchery, necessity drove them to the same 
 desperate undertakings for farther supplies. 
 
PREFACE. Xl 
 
 These associations continued with but few intermissions for nearly 150 
 years, peace or war in Europe being of no import in the eyes of their 
 leaders. The principal of these were Morgan, Samms, Wilner, Towley, 
 and others, among the EngHsh ; Montbar, L'Olonois, Grognier, Picard, 
 Le Sage, and Grammont, among the French ; Van Horn, a Dutchman, 
 and De Basco, a Portuguese. 
 
 Morgan, the most renowned of the English freebooters, after a variety 
 of minor exploits, conceived the bold project of subduing Porto Bello, 
 which he accomplished with great skill and no loss, gaining a large booty 
 from its plunder and ransom. Panama, however, a large town situated 
 across the Isthmus of Darien, on the shore of the South Seas, promised 
 still more wealth. Having reduced the Island of St. Catharine's by a 
 secret understanding with the Spanish governor, who wished to have the 
 honour, though not the danger, of resisting the adventurers, he proceed- 
 ed to the mouth of the River Chagres, leading part of the way to his 
 ultimate destination. Here was a fort situated upon a rock ; against which 
 beat the waves of the sea ; and defended by an officer and a garrison 
 worthy of the trust committed to their courage. The bucaniers attacked 
 it with desperation, and were as vigorously resisted, but this resistance 
 only stimulated the energy of the men accustomed, not merely to expect, 
 but almost to command, success. For some time the contest continued 
 doubtful, till a lucky shot killed the commander of the fort, while at the 
 same time it took fire, when the besieged, losing courage, surrendered. 
 
 Morgan, leaving his vessels at anchor under a guard, proceeded in 
 canoes up the river thirty-five miles, where, being no longer navigable, 
 t\e disembarked, and marched toward Panama, about thirty miles distant. 
 On a plain, without the town, a considerable army appeared drawn up to 
 oppose his progress. This was no sooner attacked than dispersed. In 
 the city, in boats, and in the neighbouring forests, were found vast trea- 
 sures concealed in caves and cellars, the inhabitants having had lime to 
 retire themselves, but not to carry off their wealth ; added to these were 
 immense quantities of valuable articles of commerce, which, being unable 
 to remove, were, as well as the town, according to the barbarous practice 
 of that age, set on fire by the adventurers, who regained their ships with 
 a prodigious booty. 
 
 Among the French, who distinguished themselves as much for cruelty 
 as bravery, was Montbar, a native of Languedoc. He had in early life 
 conceived a strong prejudice against the Spaniards, on account of their 
 cruelties to the Indians ; this spirit increasing with his years, he embark- 
 ed from Europe to join the bucaniers. In the passage out, a Spanish 
 vessel being met with, was attacked, boarded, and taken, Montbar lead- 
 ing the way to the decks of the enemy, along which he carried wounds 
 and death, nothing being able to resist his desperate fury ; and when 
 submission terminated the engagement, his only pleasure seemed to be 
 to contemplate, not the treasures of the vessel, but the number of dead 
 and dying Spaniards, against whom he had vowed a deadly and eternal 
 hatred. This inveterate enmity never subsided. His opponents suffer- 
 ed so much and so frequently from it, during the whole of his life, that 
 he acquired from them the name of the Exterminator. 
 
 Another of the same nation, named L'Olonois, from the situation of 
 bondsman, had raised himself to the command of two boats and twenty- 
 two men, with which he was bold enough to attack, and fortunately enough 
 to capture, a small Spanish frigate on the coast of Cuba. With this 
 vessel he succeeded in taking four ships fitted out at Port-au-Prince to 
 itestroy him ; but cruelly threw their crews over-board, excepting on« 
 
Xll PREPACB. 
 
 man, sent back to the governor of the Havannah, with a message that 
 all Spaniards who might fall into his hands, not excepting even his excel- 
 lency himself, should experience a similar fate. At Tortuga he met with 
 Michael de Basco, already celebrated for having taken a ship under the 
 guns of Porto Bello, valued at i)220,000, and a variety of other enterprises 
 equally daring and profitable. Between them a new expedition was plan- 
 ned, supported by 450 men ; in the bay of Venezuela they reduced a 
 fort, sinking the guns, and cruelly putting the garrison of 250 men to 
 death. Re-embarking, tbey reached Maracaibo, built on the western 
 shore of the lake of that name, a city which had acquired wealth by its 
 trade in skins, cocoa, and tobacco. The inhabitants, at the first alarm, 
 fled with their principal effects ; enough, however, remained to keep the 
 bucaniers in drunkenness and debauchery for some lime ; in the mean- 
 while works were thrown up to impede their progress, which they reduced 
 at the expense of blood and labour, but without any profit. Maracaibo 
 itself was ransomed ; Gibraltar, situated near the extremity of the lake, 
 was burned, owing to the exasperation of the adventurers at missing the 
 expected plunder ; and at length they retired laden with crosses, pic- 
 tures, and bells, more than with wealth. 
 
 Van Horn, in 1603, formed the design of an expedition, which promised 
 a rich harvest to his followers. He himself was at once their admiration 
 and terror, being not only remarkable for intrepidity but for punishing the 
 smallest want of it in others, often going round the decks during the 
 heat of an engagement, and instantly shooting those who, in the small- 
 est degree, flinched from their guns. In other respects he was equitable 
 and generous, sharing equally with his crew the produce of their courage, 
 though sailing in a ship wholly his private property. 
 
 To aid in the present scheme, he took Gramont, Godfrey, Jonqu6, and 
 De Graff, all commanders of approved skill and courage, with 1200 men, 
 the largest force which had yet been mustered, ami in six vessels sailed 
 for Vera Cruz. Night, and ignorance of the armament, favouring their 
 design, the bucaniers landed eight miles from the town, entered it un- 
 discovered, and, before day-break, secured the governor, forts, barracks, 
 and all the soldiers capable of making opposition. The inhabitants sought 
 refuge in the churches, at the doors of which were placed barrets of gun- 
 powder, guarded by the invaders with lighted matches, m order to destroy 
 the whole in case of insurrection or tumult. The work of pillage, in the 
 meantime, proceeded without interruption, nothing being left which it 
 was possible or desirable to carry away. A proposal was likewise made 
 to the imprisoned people, who had not tasted food for three days, to ran- 
 som their lives and freedom for a sum of .£440,000. This, whether able 
 or not, they were compelled to accede to, half the money being paid 
 immediately, and the other half promised in a few days. Suddenly, how- 
 ever, a large armed force appeared before the town, and a fleet of seven- 
 teen ships from Europe before the port, which, though sufficient to inti- 
 midate a regular army, if not to desert their plunder, had no other effect 
 on the bucaniers than to induce them to retreat quietly with 1500 slaves, 
 as an indemnifi(iation for the remaining half of the expected ransom, and 
 o push deliberately through the Spanish fleet, which, instead of inter- 
 cepting, was itself happy to escape from such terrible assailants. 
 
 For a long series of years these depredations continued. Scarcely a 
 town escaped, except such as were situated very far in the interior ; 
 forts and soldiers were of little use on the coast, for the former were soon 
 reduced, and the latter, whenever they attempted a fair contest in the 
 field, always conquered. Toward tlie decline of tbis predatory warfare, 
 
pREPACfi. xiii 
 
 Gramont embarked with a considerable force for Campeachy, and landing 
 without opposition, found 800 Spaniards drawn up to dispute the approach 
 to the town, who were attacked, beaten, and pursued into it, with the 
 invaders close behind, till stopped by the citadel. Against this all the 
 cannon they could find was directed in vain. Fear, however, effected 
 what force could not. The garrison, dreading the name of the buca- 
 niers, evacuated the place dunng the night, leaving only an Englishman 
 in it, (a gunner,) who, with the spirit of a soldier, disdained to desert that 
 which he had sworn to defend, and which, it appeared, was capable of 
 being obstinately defended ; and so highly did this principle of honour 
 and courage operate upon the assailants, who were held together solely 
 by the same feelings, that they received him with distinction, and reward- 
 ed him, not only with praises and liberty, but likewise with wealth. 
 
 For two months the conquerors kept possession of the city, searching 
 not only every nook and corner in it for plunder, but the country for thirty 
 or forty miles round, discovering what had been hidden in the earth or 
 in the woods, to the great loss of the inhabitants, who vainly believed they 
 had, by this means, secured part of their property. The plunder, as soon 
 as collected, was deposited on ship-board. The governor of the province 
 kept the field with nearly 1000 men, but dared not interrupt men who 
 Beemed as desperate, wherever booty was to be procured, as they were 
 insensible to danger and regardless of death. His refusal to ransom the 
 city caused its immediate destruction by fire. The citadel, likewise, was 
 levelled to the ground. A more extraordinary sacrifice on the part of 
 the freebooters was a bonfire made of logwood, valued at £1,000,000 
 sterling, and forming part of the plunder, which, in celebrating the festival 
 of St. Louis, on the anniversary of the French king, whose subjects they 
 principally were, was given to the flames in the intoxication of folly rather 
 than of loyalty. 
 
 The last memorable attempt of the bucaniers, on a large scale, in 
 this part of the world, took place in 1697, when 1200 men joined a squa- 
 dron of seven ships from Europe, in order to attack the city of Cartha- 
 gena. Their commander was named Pointis, a man of little honour or 
 generosity, but intent on aggrandizing himself. The enterprise was ar- 
 duous ; the place the strongest in the new world ; the port difficult of 
 approach to enemies ; and, if not immediately reduced, the chmate so bad 
 that were the Spaniards even to do nothing more than to contrive delays, 
 it would soon destroy the invaders. This, however, the latter knew.. 
 They therefore proceeded vigorously to work, seconded by that zeal 
 accustomed to contend with, and to conquer next to impossibilities ; of 
 guns they had no want, and their men were prodigal of their blood ; each 
 fought as if his individual honour and interest were at stake, which, in- 
 deed, formed the life of these associations ; and their good fortune, as 
 usual, prevailing, the city yielded to their arms with a booty calculated 
 at £1,750,000. 
 
 Of a great part of this they were deprived by the knavish rapacity of 
 their commander. Exasperated at his tricks, a party proceeded toward 
 his ship, determined to inflict summary punishment on the offender, but 
 recollecting this could be of no immediate service, cried out, " Brethren, 
 why should we pollute ourselves with the blood of this knave 1 He is 
 unworthy the indignation of honourable men ! Let him live to be despised 
 and hooted, rather than die lamented by any one who may hear of his 
 fate, without knowing his crimes. Our share of the booty is still at 
 Cariliagena, and there alone must we look for it." 
 
XIV PREFACE. 
 
 Retttrning to the city, vhich was re-entered without opposition, the 
 inhabitants were shut up in the churches till the sum of £220,000 should 
 be paid, the amount of the sum of which they believed themselves de- 
 frauded. Possessed of this, they promised to retire without molestation to 
 property or person ; without it they threatened the most frightful destruc- 
 tion to both. Unable, or unwilling, to satisfy men whose wants were as 
 boundless as their conduct was daring and unprincipled, the poor people 
 knew not v/hat to do. A venerable priest, at length, mounted the pulpit, 
 to aid, by the force of religious eloi]uence, the exactions of that rapacity 
 which it was probably useless to refuse, and impossible to prevent, and 
 which, if ungiatified, would terminate in more terrible and destructive 
 consequences. This appeal not producing the sum expected, the city 
 was ordered to be plundered. Sated, at length, with rioting and plun- 
 der ; with money, merchandize, and moveables of all kinds, they quitted 
 this unfortunate place ; but soon afterward, falling in with an English 
 and Dutch squadron then in alliance with Spain, were attacked and nearly 
 destroyed, part being taken, part sunk, and part escaping to St. Domingo, 
 a piece of due retributive justice for their extortionate and*illegal deeds, 
 which had now become, on many occasions, quite piratical, and unsanc- 
 tioned by the practices of fair and honourable warfare. 
 
 From this time bucaniering rapidly declined, the majority becoming 
 settlers in the different West Indian islands, to which they were induced 
 by the European powers sending out ships-of-war to clear those seas 
 and establish perfect security in commerce, which had been, for a cen- 
 tury, much interrupted, and, so far as regarded Spain, often, for years 
 together, quite destroyed. Those who persisted in illegal practices 
 were executed as pirates ; while others, more disposed to acquire wealth 
 by honest means, received encouragement from the local governments 
 in grants of land. The renewal of war with Spain occasionally drew 
 forth some of the more turbulent spirits from their peaceful occupations, 
 but the greater portion had acquired settled habits ; and, in time, the 
 name of bucanier, as well as his practices, became gradually obliterated 
 among all but the Spaniards, by whom they will never be forgotten. 
 
 It must also be admitted, that these adventurers acted, in some mea- 
 sure, from principle. Many conscientiously detested the Spanish people 
 on account of real or alleged cruelties toward the Indians. In plun- 
 dering them, they believed they were only despoiling robbers of that to 
 which they had no legal claim ; and far from considering their actions 
 as crimes, esteemed ihe.m not merely honourable but just. 
 
 If the cruellies of Pizarro and Cortes have ever been avenged on 
 their countrymen, it has, doubtless, been by the bucaniers. It is like- 
 "wise true that their practices fostered the nautical spirit of the age, and 
 particularly of our own country, at a time when it was much wanted, 
 and which has since been cultivated to such valour and renown. They 
 encouraged the spirit of enterprise as well as of discovery ; they led 
 the way to commerce ; they introduced wealth in shape of merchandize, 
 as well as in specie ; they made sailors ; they improved the construction 
 and equipment of ships ; they fixed the attention of government on the 
 best, and it may be said natural defences ot Britain ; they brought men 
 of rank, of fortune, and of talent to sea, who, but for the inducements 
 held out by the hope of participating in Spanish wealth, would probably 
 have left the naval profession to that humbler class of society to whom 
 it had been hitherto confined, who, had they even possessed the am- 
 bition, could not have enjoyed the means to raise it to that pitch of 
 glory it has ever since retained. 
 
PREFACE. XV 
 
 Our obligations to the bucaniers are, therefore, not inconsiderable. 
 While these are admitted, let us not forget to condemn freebooting 
 practices, directed too often against every age and sex, against the in 
 nocent trader as well as guilty plunderer of the Indians, against friends 
 as well as foes. Their system was fitted only for a ruder age, and na- 
 turally expired with the occasion. It holds up to view much for our 
 wonder, but nothing for imitation. 
 
 To elucidate still farther the following " voyages round the world," 
 it may not be uninteresting to our readers, more particularly the younger 
 part, to give some idea, of the structure of the globe, the formation of 
 some of the southern islands, with such additional remarks on their 
 language, government, and manners, as may render their history and 
 condition perfectly intelligible. 
 
 Various theories have been given to the world, by learned men, on its 
 probable origin and structure. To detail these is not our intention. 
 The subject occupies many and large volumes, and is daily giving birth 
 to many more. M. Cuvier, of the French National Institute, and Dr. 
 Knight, of Belfast, in Ireland, have very recently made farther research- 
 es on this intricate and uncertain subject, but, perhaps, without more 
 general success than some of their predecessors. Public opinion is, 
 flnd has been for some years, divided between the systems of Dr. James 
 Hutton and Professor Werner, the latter of which is likewise called the 
 Neptunian theory, and of these a short account is necessary. 
 
 Dr. Hutton supposes that by far the greater part of the bodies which 
 compose our globe bear the marks of being composed of substances of 
 much more ancient date, or in other words, that the present world is 
 formed from the wrecks of a former. For the remains are so generally 
 spread in nature, that no doubt the strata, which constitute the pre- 
 sent continents, are merely new combinations of other strata infinitely 
 older. 
 
 The present rocks having all existed in the form of loose materials at 
 the bottom of the sea, must have been consolidated and converted into 
 stone by the operation of some very powerful and general agent. This 
 agent he considers to be subterranean fire. The pressure of the super- 
 incumbent ocean prevented the heat, however intense, from volatilizing 
 those substances, which, under the lighter pressure of our atmosphere, 
 it would have consumed. The same pressure, by keeping these sub- 
 stances united, which on the surface of the earth are easily separated, 
 would probably occa'sion fusion, which in our hottest furnaces produce 
 only calcination. 
 
 Another circumstance is, that the stratified rocks, instead of being 
 horizontal, or nearly so, as they were no doubt originally, aro now of all 
 degrees of elevation even to the perpendicular, and those which were 
 once at the bottom of the sea, are now raised many thousand feet above 
 its surface. From this, as well as from the inflections, breakings, and 
 separations of the various strata, it is deduced that they were raised by 
 some groat expansive power acting under them. This must be the vol- 
 cano, or earthquake, but in a more violent d-^grec than we have wit- 
 nessed these phenomena. The very great disturbance of the strata 
 cannot be traced to any other cause. 
 
 A fourth consideration is, the great breaches among rocks, which, 
 contrary to other divisions of nature, are filled up by materials quite 
 dillerent from those that surround them. These are what are called the 
 veins. They include not only metallic substances, but whinstone, por- 
 phyry, and granite. These arc of posterior forraatioi o the 8*a-ata 
 
Xvl " PREFACE. 
 
 which they intersect, and bear marks of the violence with which they 
 have come into their place. The materials of all these veins have been 
 melted by subterraneous heat, and while in a state of fusion, injected 
 among the fissures and cavities of rocks already formed, but moved 
 from their original place. 
 
 All mineral bodies, it is likewise remarked by Dr. Hutton, are, with- 
 out exception, going fast to decay when exposed to the atmosphere. 
 That from the mountain to the sea-shore, from the softest clay to the 
 hardest quartz, all are undergoing a separation of their parts, and carried 
 down by rivers and depositions from the atmosphere, to be again de- 
 posited in the sea. Thus far the oatline of Hutton. 
 
 Werner's geognosy, as he terms it, allows that a very rational theory 
 of the exterior crust of the globe may be formed, but that is difficult or 
 impracticable to gain any definite knowledge of the interior. It is 
 certain, that some portion of it has been in a fluid state, from its being 
 now in a spheroidal form. The crystalline figure of granite and other 
 rocky substances, constituting the base of that part of the earth which 
 we know, are sufficient proofs that they have been in a state of minute 
 dissolution. The stratified appearance of the majority of mountains and 
 rocks, evinces they are accumulations of precipitates or sediments de- 
 posited one over another. The numerous remains of marine animals 
 found imbedded in many rocks, and of which some species still exist in 
 our seas, render it highly probable, that this solution was aqueous ; that, 
 in fact, a vast ocean once covered the globe to a considerable height. 
 The inference is, that the exterior part of the globe has been entirely 
 dissolved by the waters which surrounded it, and from this solution 
 certain chemical precipitations took place, which have formed the crusts 
 we now see. 
 
 This view is supported by a variety of arguments and proofs drawn 
 from the congeries of strata, each composed of a certain set of minerals, 
 nearly the same in all parts of the world. These congeries Werner 
 calls formations, divided into six classes, four of which are universal 
 over the globe, and two partial, distinguished by appropriate names. 
 This theory, the latest, most celebrated, and, on the whole, the clearest, 
 is probably the most consonant to truth. 
 
 Another subject always interesting to the navigator, is the flux and the 
 reflux of the sea, and the cause of these phenomena. The theory of 
 lunar attraction, adopted by Newton, was mentioned by Plutarch, and 
 was taught through the middle and dark ages ; but as attraction, or a 
 body acting where it is not, is an absurdity in terms, we shall introduce 
 our readers to the more rational theory of Sir Richard Phillips, which 
 proves that the tides are mere oscillations of ocean, and that these 
 oscillations are caused by the motions of the earth and moon, and are 
 necessary consequences of mutual action and reaction, without any le- 
 gerdemain powers like that of attraction, repulsion, or gravitation. 
 
 The tides, says Sir Richard Phillips,* are simple and palpable phe- 
 nomena of motion. They are caused by the disturbance of the centre 
 of the earth's motion ; and this disturbance is rendered apparent by 
 the waters of the sea, because fluids, as fluids, can move from place to 
 place, so as to restore any disturbed equilibrium. The solid parts of "ihe 
 earth may have a tendency to move, but the moving power, in this case, 
 is great enough only to move the fluids ; and when the equilibrium is 
 wstored by these, the force created by the disturbance ceases to act. 
 
 * Monthly Magazine, No. 345. 
 
PREFACB. XVll 
 
 If the earth turned on a mathematical centre, (or axis,) and no cause 
 ever disturbed the forces acting on each side of that centre, (or axis,) 
 there would be no tides, or flux and reflux of the waters. 
 
 But if the forces which revolve the earth were to act unequally on its 
 sides, so as to have a tendency to vary the centre, then the waters, by 
 their mobihty, would restore the equilibrium as the disturbance took 
 place, so that the disturbance v?ould be simultaneously corrected, but 
 the means of correction would, by the motions of the waters, produce 
 what are called tides. 
 
 If the earth were a smooth sphere, equally covered with water, 
 equable and uniform motions would cause no tides. But if the earth 
 were not a true homogeneous sphere, or had projecting parts on one 
 side, or were denser on one side than on the other, then, as the momenta 
 of the two sides, produced by a common force, must necessarily be 
 equal, the side least dense, or having least matter, would perform a 
 larger circuit than the other ; or, in other words, the centre of gyration 
 and the mathematical centre would not be the same, and then the 
 moveable fluids, because moveable and least dense, would rush to re- 
 store the equilibrium. 
 
 If, instead of a projecting side, we were to suppose a small globe to 
 be annexed or joined to the earth, both revolving together on a common 
 centre, or centre of their quantity of matter, then the centre of gyration 
 would be considerably elevated toward that side, and the waters, in 
 respecting that centre, would be impelled toward the annexed globe. 
 
 Suppose, farther, that the annexed globe were separated from the 
 other, and cariied to a distance, their masses still revolving about a com- 
 mon centre acting and reacting through a fixed or gaseous lever, it is 
 evident that the former effect would not be diminished, and that the 
 waters, in being able, by their mobility, to respect that centre of motion, 
 would be impelled toward the separated globe.* 
 
 Such are the circumstances of the earth and moon. Thoy move round 
 a common centre or fulcrum in the medium of space, the arms or dis- 
 tances of the gaseous lever being in the inverse duplicate ratio of their 
 distances and of their quantities of matter ; and the mundane fluids, as 
 fluids, in respecting the centre of motion, rise toward the centre of mo- 
 tion, or toward the fulcrum of their mutual revolution, which is always 
 necessarily in the right line joining the centres of the earth and moon. 
 
 But while this joint revolution of the earth and moon is performed 
 round the fulcrum of the gaseous lever of space, the earth is turning on 
 
 * The reader who is accustomed to consider space as a vacuum, because 
 with his eye he does not see anything in space ; or he who has adopted the 
 notion of a vacuum, because any matter in space might interfere with the 
 necessary perpetuity of Newton's whimsical projectile force, may ask what 
 connects the bodies when thus separated ? To this it may be replied, that 
 the gaseous medium which fills space is as perfect a lever as a rod of iron or 
 platina, though it propagates force to any point by a law sui generis, or diffu- 
 sively as the reciprocal square of the distances ; and is more sensible and 
 perfect than a fixed lever, in the exact proportion of its rarity — that is, the 
 more rare the more sensible, and the more capable of propagating motion 
 and force from one part of space to another. All the bodies in the universe 
 are thus necessarily connected, and the connexion is formed by the gaseous 
 medium filling space, which diffuses or diverges all forces and motions in- 
 versely as the squares of the distances, and directly as the quantities of mat- 
 ter moving with equal velocity. Solid levers propagate force in right lines 
 by propulsion, and fluid and gaseous ones in spheres by difFusion. 
 
 2* 
 
XVlll PREFACE. 
 
 its axis by a separate motion ; and as all parts of its surface are succes- 
 sively presented to the moon, or to the common fulcrum, so the successive 
 portions of water are elevated tov^'ard. the moon or fulcrum ; and hence 
 the phenomena arise which we call tides governed necessarily in suc- 
 cessive rotations by the times which the moon, or the common fulcrum, 
 passes the meridian of any places. 
 
 The fulcrum of the earth and moon is the point about which both re- 
 volve, and is the centre of their reciprocal momenta. It necessarily lies 
 in the line which joins the centres of the earth and moon ; and, being 
 the centre of their joint momenta, is the point acted upon by the sun's 
 impulses on the medium of space, in producing the orbicular motion ; 
 and is, therefore, constantly in the earth's orbit ; while the centres of 
 the earth and moon constantly revolve around it, by their mutual action 
 and reaction on each other through the medium of space. 
 
 The moveable fluids always accommodate themselves to the centre of 
 gyration, which becomes their centre, without regard to the disposition 
 of the fixed concrete masses, which they keep in mundane equilibrium : 
 hence it is, that if a mountain on one side of a globe occasions the cen- 
 tre of gyration to approach that mountain, the waters, in accommodating 
 themselves to that centre, will accumulate about the mountain : hence, 
 if another globe be annexed in contact, (suppose the moon in contact with 
 the earth,) and the centre of gyration were then raised considerably 
 toward that annexed globe, the waters, in respecting the circle of gyra- 
 tion performed by both globes, would fill up the chasms between the 
 curved surfaces of the two globes : and hence also, if the two globes, 
 being separated and connected in motion only by a gaseous lever, (like 
 the earth and moon in a medium of space,) still the centre or fulcrum 
 of motion would, as a centre of gyration, govern the moving waters, and 
 they would flow, or endeavour to flow, toward that fulcrum, and would 
 even flow around it, if they were not restrained by a local rotatory force 
 like that of the earth, and by a density of the fluid, sufficient to counter- 
 act the tendency to ascend to the common centre of motion. 
 
 Suppose the earth to be turning on its axis, with the fulcrum vertical 
 over the meridian of central Africa, where, as there is no sea, there will 
 be no apparent tide — though the seas of the Antarctic Ocean would be 
 slightly affected. In an hour the rotation carries the shores of the At- 
 lantic opposite the moon or fulcrum, and the waters being capable of 
 rushing to restore the equilibrium, in consequence of the disturbance 
 already explained, they rise toward the fulcrum or centre of lunar and 
 mundane gyration, and the elevation continues as the Atlantic passes 
 under the moon or fulcrum. 
 
 But when the Atlantic shores of America arrive opposite the moon or 
 fulcrum, the waters rise on the coast, and fill the entrances of the rivers, 
 when the continent is presented to the moon or fulcrum, and then no 
 tide is raised. Nevertheless, the waters were brought to the shores and 
 left there — what then becomes of them 1 The cause which produced 
 their elevation has departed to another meridian. Is it not astonishing 
 that no one ever asked, or ever answered, this question 1 Must they 
 not swing back, and is not this the second tide 1 Is not this a necessary 
 cause of the second tide on the African and European shores ; and is not 
 such second tide a necessary consequence of the waters being so accu- 
 mulated 1 Would not the constant succession of this sufficient cause 
 produce the same equable effect in the secondary as in the primary tide 1 
 Would not such constant succession produce a species of oscillation 
 such as exists in the tides of the ocean "^ 
 
PREFACE. - XIX 
 
 We need not accompany the phenomena to the shores of the Pacific, 
 where the oscillations are less, because the liquid pendulum is larger and 
 heavier — but where exactly the same causes produce a primary and 
 secondary tide. 
 
 In a word, the second tide arises from the reactions of the first tide 
 against the visible continents and invisible rocks which bound and fill the 
 ocean ; and which reactions concur with the departure of the force over 
 land lo other meridians, so that a returning tide is a necessary conse- 
 quence of a primary one. And in confirmation of this theory of the 
 secondary tide, is it not notorious, that in certain parts of the South 
 Pacific, where few or no disturbances are created by reflections of land, 
 there is but one tide in twenty-four hours 1 
 
 The other peculiarity of the tides — their neap and spring, depending 
 on the relative positions of the sun, moon, and earth, are susceptible of 
 explanation equally clear and simple. In the quarters, the line joining 
 the centres of the earth and moon, coincides with the line of the earth's 
 orbit, or with the direction of the earth's orbicular force ; and the tide 
 is then produced solely by the revolution of the earth round the fulcrum 
 of the earth and moon. But as soon as the moon departs in its orbit, 
 toward the solar conjunction or opposition, from the line of the earth's 
 orbit, the centre of the earth is also carried on the opposite side out of 
 the line of its orbit, and the line of the rotatory and orbicular motions 
 no longer coincide. This disturbance the waters are able to restore ; and 
 herein is a new cause of tide, which, at Ire opposition and conjunctions, 
 not only coincides with the direction of the lunar fulcrum, but becomes 
 itself a maximum, because the earth's centre is then removed the farthest 
 from the line of the orbicular force. Hence the spring-tides at the new 
 and full moon ; and hence all the degrees of tide, as the centre of the 
 earth and the line of the fulcrum approach the direction of the orbit. 
 
 In fine, says this writer, I ascribe (1) the tides of the revoluton of the 
 earth round the fulcrum, or centre of the momentum, of the earth and 
 moon, which fulcrum is always in the line which joins the centres of the 
 earth and moon ; and as the moveable waters accumulate opposite that 
 fulcrum, so they have the appearance of being attracted, as it is called, 
 by the moon. 
 
 I ascribe (2) the double tide in every twenty-four hours to the depar- 
 ture of the force from the sea over the land, owing to the intervention ot 
 the great continents which separate the two great oceans from each other. 
 
 And, I ascribe (3) the variable heights of the tides, as apparently con- 
 nected with the age of the moon, to the variable distance of the body ot 
 the earth from the line of its orbicular force, during its revolution round 
 the lunar and mundane centre of motion. 
 
 When the land, by whatever means, emerged from the mass of waters, 
 large portions of the latter were still left in particular concavities by the 
 order of Providence, for the wisest purposes ; for it is quite clear that 
 were it not for this arrangement, there would be little or no communica- 
 tion between the more distant parts of the world. No commerce could 
 possibly exist ; the expenses of conveyance, added to obstructions of a 
 thousand kinds, would be altogether insurmountable. Rivers, forests, 
 deserts, mountains, and innumerable hostile nations, must necessarily in • 
 tervene, as we see every day on our continents, to interrupt the inter- 
 course of distant portions of the globe, were even the fatigues, trouble, 
 and expenses of a land-journey capable of being generally encountered. 
 
 The greatest of these convenient media of communication is, as has 
 been already alluded to, the great South Sea or Pacific Ocean, extending 
 
XX PREFACE. 
 
 from the eastern shore of New Holland to the western coast of America, 
 and from Cape Horn to Kamtschatka, a space of about 140 degrees of 
 longitude by 120 of latitude ! This vast body of water had other claims 
 to consideration besides its extent. It was long the object of enterprise 
 and adventure in the pursuits of fame and wealth ; of inquiry for its 
 supposed southern continent ; of curiosity as the means of circumnavi- 
 gating the globe. It was the last great ocean which the skill of Euro- 
 peans traversed, and of course possesses even to this moment much of 
 the gloss of novelty. But it was more particularly remarkable for the 
 incredible number of islands scattered over its enormous surface, not 
 singly, or here and there, but in great and varied clusters. Many of 
 these have been examined ; many hundreds of others are doubtless still 
 unknown ; for every ship that takes a new route, or remains any time 
 here, adds daily to our knowledge. 
 
 So extensive and populous have been these additions to geographical 
 science, that some skilful men propose two new divisions of the globe to 
 the old number of four : New Holland, New Guinea, and some others in 
 their vicinity to be named Australasia ; and all ihe rest Polynesia. 
 
 The origin of many of these islands differs materially from those of 
 Europe and from each other. While several are as ancient as creation, 
 others are only recently elevated above the water. While the support- 
 ers of the two great theories each assign the operation of their favourite 
 cause, a third, totally independent of either, must be added to account 
 for many of the new formations. This is the action of certain small ma- 
 rine animals, named Zoophites, which may be considered the ants of the 
 ocean. Their industry, in fact, exceeds anything that can be conceived. 
 The substance which they produce, or construct, is called madrepore, 
 or bastard coral, sometimes in larger or smaller masses, or shaped like 
 the branches of trees, and growing like them from stems. Nothing can 
 be more beautifully arranged. Were the ocean for a moment to recede 
 from its bed, this madrepore would be seen like an immense shrubbery, 
 except that it is more regular on its summit, no part being higher than 
 another. Where the tides operate such as on the shores of some of the 
 islands, or between the smaller ones where the depth of water is not 
 great, this singular spectacle is frequently seen. Laying their foundation 
 at the bottom of the ocean, these animals continue working without in- 
 termission, probably for many generations, before their fabric comes near 
 the surface of the sea. 
 
 Banks of coral are found at all depths and at all distances from the 
 shore. Known at first as reefs and shoals, they soon become islands. 
 They are frequently observed in all stages, some only beginning, others 
 only half constructed, others again finished, or at least brought to the 
 surface of the water ; several without vegetation having yet begun ; and 
 many where soil has accumulated and this process is observed in its infancy. 
 
 It is more difficult to conceive, however, how this madrepore, which 
 is in itself brittle and branching, becomes converted into solid rock, but 
 the solution is easy. As the fabric ascends, the interstices of this net- 
 work — for such it appears — are filled up by sands from the continual 
 washing of the sea. From the same cause, vast quantities of the coral 
 itself are broken off from the outer parts of the bank, and the loose pieces, 
 added to sea-weed, and the variety of extraneous substances always 
 driven about by the sea, comes in aid of the sand, and in time fill up every 
 cavity, rendering the whole that compact, solid mass required for the 
 foundation of an island. The sand being most easily raised by the flux 
 of the waves, becomes lodged at top. Here, when once above the reach 
 
PREFACE. XXi 
 
 of the water, it soon forms a resting-place for birds. Their dung, feathers, 
 and other matters, carried thither by accident, augment and enrich the 
 soil, preparing it for the reception of roots, seeds, and branches thrown 
 up by the sea, or brought thither by birds. The decomposition of these 
 substances again tend to form a mould in which vegetation thrives. And 
 that great treasure of the tropics, the cocoa-nut, which can remain long 
 in the water without losing its vegetative power, having at length been 
 thrown on such islands, gives birth to the tree which flourishes best in a 
 sandy soil, and thus the naked coral-bank in time becomes the fruitful 
 island, and the habitation of man. That such is the usual process em- 
 ployed by nature, we have many proofs. One is, that the cocoa-nut tree 
 is often found on such islands in a flourishing condition, when there is 
 scarcely any other shrub to be seen. 
 
 Captain Flinders, in his voyage to Terra Australia, gives an interesting 
 account of a coral reef on the southern coast of New South Wales. 
 Landing on it, and the water being clear round the margin, he distinctly 
 perceived the various figures of wheat sheaves, mushrooms, stags' horns, 
 cabbage leaves, and numberless others, tinged with a variety of colours, 
 all exceedingly beautiful. The general hue, however, is a dirty white. 
 Several projecting masses, called negro heads, were lumps disjointed and 
 standing higher than others, but blackened by exposure to weather ; in 
 these the forms of coral, with the admixture of shells, were clearly dis- 
 tinguishable. The whole may well bear the name of stone-fungus. 
 
 Many of these islands rise 200 or 300 fathoms, or probably more, near- 
 ly perpendicularly from the bottom of the ocean, the Zoophites having 
 an instinct to work directly upward. Yet it is remarkable, that when 
 ihe surface of the water is attained, they can work no longer, or at least, 
 if not partially covered by that element ; for out of it they soon die. 
 Providence thus, as with everything else, points out the purposes of their 
 existence ; they have certain duties to perform, and those once finished, 
 they cease to have being. Where these islands are more shelving, it 
 arises from the outer and upper, and of course newer, portions of coral 
 being broken oflf by the action of storms from the outer edge, and wash- 
 ed toward the centre of the structure. 
 
 The islands of the Pacific, in addition to theit formation and numbers, 
 offer much for curiosity and remark in their population. This is pretty 
 extensive, amounting in the whole, according to the best authorities, to 
 300,000 persons. The principal groups in which they exist, are the Pelew 
 islands, the Ladrones, the Carolines, the Sandwich islands, the Marquesas, 
 the Society islands, the Friendly islands, besides some hundreds of others 
 considerably smaller in extent, or detached. Whence they had their ori- 
 gin, is a fruitful source of contest and conjecture among the learned, and 
 is likely to continue so. The most probable supposition is from the con- 
 tinent of America, in boats driven to sea by stress of weather, unable 
 from want of nautical knowledge to regain that land of which they had 
 lost sight, and thus exposed to the mercy of the wide ocean, drifting 
 they knew not whither ; if fortunate enough to reach an island, there of 
 course they would remain, and in time their posterity become a nation. 
 
 That such really was the origin of these people is undoubted. Some 
 of the bucaniers found boats thus bewildered off the coast of Peru. 
 Le Maire, inl616, met with a very capacious and sea- worthy double canoe, 
 containing sixteen men and eight or nine women, who did not seem to 
 know where they were, or whither they were going. If only one island 
 was thus peopled, they would soon spread over the others in this ocean 
 
XXll PREFACE. 
 
 by the same means. An instance of the fact occurred in Captain Cook's 
 third voyage, and is related at length in our 271st page. Besides, it is 
 well known to all acquainted with these islands, on what slight occasions 
 • they commit themselves to the mercy of the winds and waves ; if a weaker 
 island be invaded by a stronger ; if two kings or chiefs quarrel so as to 
 proceed to extremities ; or if the life of an individual be sought by a 
 powerful enemy, it is common to resort to this desperate alternative for 
 preserving it. Numbers of these certainly perish ; but others have been 
 more fortunate in reaching spots where their progeny have multiplied. 
 
 The best informed navigators agree in giving them a common origin. 
 Differences in features, manners, customs, and language are no doubt 
 frequently observed, but the general resemblance is sufficiently obvious ; 
 and, after all, the variations are by no means so great as we met with 
 among the various nations of the continent of Europe. 
 
 Few traces remain of their American origin in point of language. 
 Resemblances, however, have been traced by diligent inquirers, but even 
 this forms a very trifling objection. Nothing, it appears from experience, 
 is more liable to change than language, not merely in barbarous and un- 
 settled, but in polished tongues, as we know from the transformations 
 experienced throughout those of Europe. The Latin, for instance, has 
 given birth to the Italian, French, Spanish, and Portuguese, and some 
 part of our own, all differing in every point from their source, yet the 
 origin is undoubted. A considerable mixture of the Malay tongue is 
 likewise said to prevail in most of the Polynesian islands. Their speech 
 is in general soft, well modulated, of tolerable compass, abounding in 
 vowels, and judging from the facility with which it has been caught by 
 our seamen, not difficult of being acquired. The pronunciation, however, 
 often differs both in the names of things and places ; and, to obviate this 
 defect, the missionaries, who have had the best means of becoming familiar 
 with the subject, give the following rules : 
 
 1st. When a single vowel forms or closes a sylable, 
 a is sounded as in father ; 
 e ' as in equal ; 
 
 o as in open ; 
 
 u as in duty. 
 
 Sdly. When two vowels come together, 
 
 ae has the same sound as the adverb ay ; 
 ai is sounded as in fail ; 
 au as in autumn ; 
 
 ei has the sound of i long ; for which this improper dipthong 
 has, from the first, been substituted in names that are now become 
 too familiar to be altered, as in Otaheite, Eimeo, Huaheine, &c. 
 00 is sounded as in the adverb too, for a similar reason ; 
 ou as in our ; and 
 
 oehas the same sound with oy in English words, as in joy, &c. 
 All other combinations of vowels are to be pronounced, according to 
 the preceding rules, in distinct syllables. 
 
 3dly. When any single vowel is followed, in the same syllable, by a 
 consonant, it has its shortest sound, as in matter, giftj otter, upward. 
 
 4thly. Every consonant, single vowel, or dipthong, uniformly retains a 
 distinct and appropriate sound, subject to the preceding rules. The letters 
 w and y are, therefore, used only as consonants ; g is always hard ; and 
 th is always sounded as in think. The e is never mute. Thus Otaheite 
 is to be pronounced so as to rhyme with the adjective mighty. 
 
 5thly. That syllable on which the strongest emphasis is to be place'i 
 
PREFACE. SOCm 
 
 u marked as a long syllable, (so Tongataboo, Ohittahoo,) when the words 
 first occur ; but this distinction, agreeably to rule 4th, indicates no other 
 change in the sound of the vowels over which it is placed. 
 
 As the point of language is one of essential importance to those who 
 may visit the South Seas, or to those who read for information, it may 
 be necessary to state that their alphabet consist of only seventeen letters. 
 With these, however, they express themselves with precision and facihty. 
 Their pronouns are remarkable, differing according to the number of 
 persons spoken of ; we signifying two only ; we two out of three in com- 
 pany ; we an indefinite number — have each a distinct pronoun, specifically 
 marking the person. A comparison of structure being, however, both more 
 explanatory and useful, the following is added for general information : 
 
 Enelish. Otaheite. New Zealand. New Holland. New Guinea. 
 
 A chief. . . Earee . . . Eareete Latieuo 
 
 A man . . . Taata . . . Taata . . . Bama or MuUa 
 
 A woman . . Ivahine . . Whahine . . Din .... Fazzi 
 
 The head . . Eupo . . . Eupo . . . Wageegee . Ea 
 
 The hair . . Roouzou . . Macauwe . . Morye . . . Nihouge 
 
 The ear . . Terrea . . . Terringa . . Melea . . . Talingan 
 
 The forehead Erai . . • Ezai . . . Gaul-lo . . PossonAzough 
 
 The eyes . . Mata . . . Mata . . . Meul . . . Matta 
 
 The cheeks . Paparea . . Paparinga Paring 
 
 The nose . , Ahew . . . Ahewh . . . Bonjoo . . . Nisson 
 The mouth . Otou . . . Hangartou . Kan-ga 
 
 The chin Ecouwai . . Wal-lo 
 
 The arm . . Rema . . . Hazingazingu Acol . . . Pong liman 
 
 The finger . Maneow . . Maticaza . . Da-za-gallie . 
 
 The belly . . Oboo . . . Ateraboo . . Bar-zong . . Balang 
 
 The navel . . Peto . . . Apeto . . . Toolpoor . . 
 
 Come hither . Harromai . . Harromai . . Cow-e . . . Nutifay 
 
 Fish. . . . Eyea . . . Heica Hissou 
 
 A lobster . . Toouza . . Roouza Cozze 
 
 Cocoa . . . Tazo . . . Tazo . . . Mazacotu . . Lamas 
 Sweet potatoesCumala . . Cumala 
 
 Yams . , . Tuphwhe . . Tuphwhe : Oufi 
 
 Birds . . . JIannu . . . Mannu Onfa 
 
 No . . . . Ouze . . . Raouza . . . Beall . . . Eay 
 
 One .... Tahai . . . Tahai Tika 
 
 Two . . . Rua .... Rua Roa 
 
 Three . . . Tozow . . . Tozow Tola 
 
 Four . . . Hea ... Ha Fatta 
 
 Five . . . Rema . . . Rema Lima 
 
 Six ... . Ono . . . Ono Wamma 
 
 Seven . . . Hetu . . . Etu Fita 
 
 Eight . . . Warou . . . Warou .' Wala 
 
 Nine . . . Heva . . . Iva Sivoa 
 
 Ten . . . Ahouzou . . Angahouzou ...... Sanga-foula 
 
 The teeth . . Nihio . . . Hennihew Ysang 
 
 The wind . . Mattai . . . Mehou 
 A thief . . . Teto . . . Amootoo 
 To examine . Mataitai . . Mataketake 
 
 To sing . . Heiva . . . Eheara Adoua 
 
 Bad .... Eno . . . Renou . . . Wee-re 
 
 Trees .' . . Ezaou . . . Ezatou Talil 
 
 In addition to the preceding, which may be consulted for the sake of 
 comparison by the curious and scientific, some additions are judged ne- 
 cessary of important words, useful to the practical navigator in the supply 
 of his wants, or for facilitating general intercourse with the natives. 
 
XXIV 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 OTAHEITE. 
 
 Booa 
 Moa - - 
 Euree - 
 Eure-eure 
 Oozoo - 
 Hearee - 
 Mia - - 
 Faee 
 Mora - 
 Mattow - 
 Mow 
 Toura - 
 Eupea - 
 Miti - - 
 Pazoree 
 
 Ehaha - - 
 
 Ewy 
 
 Hedede - - - - 
 Eora .... 
 
 Emattee - - - 
 Ehuff6 .... 
 Etete-do - . . 
 Eraei-te - . - 
 Eputa - . - - 
 Eawa-tere - . - 
 
 Epo 
 
 He-kye .... 
 Eenu6 -. - - - 
 Emarangi - - - 
 Esow-howoo-doo 
 Etonga .... 
 Etehu - . . - 
 Etaka - . . . 
 
 A hog 
 
 Maa - . - 
 
 - To eat 
 
 A fowl 
 
 Inoo ... 
 
 - To drink 
 
 A dog 
 
 Harre ... 
 
 . Togo 
 
 Iron 
 
 Arrea ... 
 
 - To stay 
 
 Bread-fruit 
 
 Ete- - - - 
 
 - To understand 
 
 Cocoa-nuts 
 
 Worride - - 
 
 . To be angry 
 
 Bananas 
 
 Teparahi - - 
 
 . To beat 
 
 Wild plantains 
 A duck 
 
 Roa . . - 
 
 . Tall 
 
 Poto . . . 
 
 - Short 
 
 A fish-hook 
 
 Waroido - « 
 
 - To steal 
 
 A shark 
 
 Nehenne - . 
 
 . Sweet 
 
 A rope 
 
 Mala-mala . 
 
 . Bitter 
 
 A net 
 
 Pia- . . . 
 
 . FuU 
 
 Good 
 
 Timahah . - 
 
 -Heavy 
 
 Hungry 
 
 Mama - . « 
 
 . Light 
 
 NEW ZEALAND. 
 
 
 Fire 
 
 Epono . . 
 
 - To tell truth 
 
 Water 
 
 Ewaka • . 
 
 - A canoe 
 
 Hatred 
 
 E-de-ding-ee 
 
 - To sell 
 
 Health 
 
 Eomi ... 
 
 . To give 
 
 Sick, or dead 
 
 Eka-ou . - 
 
 - To swim 
 
 Love 
 
 Rak6 - - . 
 
 - Satisfied 
 
 To see 
 
 My-ty- . . 
 
 - Good 
 
 To taste 
 
 Mackrowa - 
 
 - Bad 
 
 Sun-rise 
 
 Ewy-you- - 
 
 . Milk 
 
 Noon 
 
 Pah-hee - - 
 
 - A ship 
 
 Sun-set 
 
 Ewharr6- . 
 
 . A house 
 
 To eat 
 
 Ea-wha - - 
 
 - A harbour 
 
 To drink 
 
 Emoki - - 
 
 - To work 
 
 North 
 
 Ewhatu - . 
 
 - Star 
 
 South 
 
 Ematangee . 
 
 - Wind 
 
 East 
 
 E-hua - . - 
 
 - Rain 
 
 West 
 
 Emmahane6 
 
 . Hot 
 
 To tell a lie 
 
 Makaradee . 
 
 - Cold 
 
 KING GEORGE'S SOUND, N. W. Coast 
 
 Cauts-hock 
 
 Co-OS . 
 
 Elseet - 
 
 Luk-sheet 
 
 Maa-kook 
 
 Nah-heir 
 
 Jah-putz 
 
 E-oo-mer 
 
 How-whilk 
 
 One. . 
 Two . 
 Three . 
 Four 
 Five . 
 Six . . 
 Seven . 
 Eight . 
 Nine 
 Ten. . 
 
 Clothing 
 
 A man 
 
 Fish 
 
 Fresh water 
 
 Trade, or barter 
 
 Give me 
 
 A canoe ' 
 
 To eat 
 
 A friend 
 
 Qua-quaaker > 
 Qui-aslzik - 
 Sloot's-man - 
 Tsi-kiminny - 
 Sikets-sko • 
 Etts-auk . • 
 Kow-iltz . • 
 Jah-poaks 
 
 King George's 
 
 Sound. 
 Saw-wak . . 
 Atla. . . . 
 Catsa . . . 
 Mo ... . 
 Socha . . . 
 Nopo . . . 
 Atlapo . . . 
 Atlaqudsh . . 
 Saw-aquash . 
 High-ho . . 
 
 Numerals 
 
 Salamoti's 
 Islands. 
 laci . . 
 Loua . 
 Tolou . 
 Fa . . 
 Lima . 
 Houve . 
 Fito . . 
 V-alo . 
 Ivvou . 
 Ongefoula 
 
 of 
 
 Caroline 
 Islands. 
 . Iota . 
 . Rua. 
 . Toloo 
 . Tia . 
 . Leema 
 . Honoo 
 . Fizoo 
 . Warrow 
 . Heevo 
 . Segga 
 
 OF America. 
 • The sea beaver 
 
 A wolfs skin 
 
 A woman 
 
 Iron 
 
 A rope 
 
 Wood 
 
 To steal 
 
 Copper or brass 
 
 'Pelew 
 Islands. 
 
 . Tong 
 
 . Oroo 
 
 . Othey 
 
 . Oang 
 
 . Aeem 
 
 . Malong 
 
 , Oweth 
 
 . Tei 
 
 . Etew 
 
 . Mackoth 
 

 
 PREFACE. 
 
 
 Patagonia 
 
 pronunciation guttural. 
 
 Calemi . . 
 
 . . Young 
 
 
 Gialerae . . . Fire 
 
 Her . . . 
 
 . . Head 
 
 
 Holi .... Water 
 
 Oter . . . 
 
 . . Eye 
 
 
 Arc ... Sea 
 
 Or . . . 
 
 . . Nose 
 
 
 Oni .... Wind 
 
 Ani . . . 
 
 . . Wolf 
 
 
 Ohone . . . Hurricane 
 
 Cache . . 
 
 . . Goose 
 
 
 Mechiere . , . To eat 
 
 Hoi . . . 
 
 . . Fish 
 
 
 Ohomagse . . To fight 
 
 Siameni 
 
 . . OysCer 
 
 
 Terrecai . . . Cloth 
 
 Conne . . 
 
 . . To look 
 
 
 Theu .... Snow 
 
 Hai . . . 
 
 . . To come 
 
 
 Holl . . . . A dog 
 
 Rei . . . 
 
 . . To go 
 
 
 Irocoles . . .To cook 
 
 XX? 
 
 Capac .... Root used as bread 
 
 The government of most of the South Sea islands is an hereditary 
 monarchy, under whom are many inferior chiefs, independent, or nearly 
 so, in their several districts, but all subject to the orders and power of the 
 king. Rebellions, however, are frequent against his power, arising either 
 from his oppression, or the ambition and power of some of the chiefs. 
 The royal person is commonly held sacred in ordinary times. He has 
 his peculiar attendants, his houses, his lands, his revenues, besides taking 
 from others what he may think proper, for his will is the only guide for 
 the amount of these forced contributions. In a period of war the chiefs 
 are obliged to attend the king with all the fighting men of their districts ; 
 with canoes, if there be any expedition to another island on foot ; and 
 with supplies of arms and provisions. Sometimes refractory chiefs refuse 
 to attend the king's summons, instances of which continually occur in all 
 the islands ; but it is only the very powerful that dare do this. The 
 weaker are punished for their remissness. 
 
 Next in rank to the chiefs are their younger brothers, tayos, or friends. 
 These have the care of the more scattered possessions of their superiors, 
 receive and make use of the products for themselves, on condition of oc- 
 casionally entertaining the principal chief on his excursions, or when 
 scarcity prevails at his usual residence.. Added to these are others still 
 lower in the scale of rank, down to the toulous, or servants, each of whom 
 •has some interest in the produce of the ground. The power of the 
 chiefs extends also to the sea-side in preventing fishing in certain places 
 except for his own use, but this power is seldom exercised except on verv 
 particular occasions. The lowest class perform all the labours requirea 
 by the chief with seeming willingness, but their services are by no means 
 constant. They are generally well treated ; and if they please, may 
 change chiefs and districts at any time. Custom, not fear, is the reason 
 of their respect and attachment. They are at all times admitted as com- 
 panions rather than inferiors. A stranger can discover little external 
 difference between them. The king is in constant communion with the 
 lowest of his subjects, and never treats them with the least distance or 
 haughtiness of manner. It is remarkable, however, that with all this 
 apparent equality, the difference of ranks is so substantial, that a low man 
 can never, by any exercise of talents or bravery, become a principal chief; 
 while the latter, for the same reason, though despoiled of his district and 
 command, can never sink, in rank or respect, to an inferior condition. Any 
 of the king's servants may serve him, and quit his service when they 
 think proper, all they receive in return, being, indeed, the only wants 
 known in such a life, are food and a cloth round their middle ; the climato 
 requiring no other clothing. 
 
 Tradition and some few land-marks form the onlv dependence of landed 
 3 
 
XXVI PREFACE. 
 
 property, but these are quite sufficient for the purpose. No attempt is 
 made to infringe on the rights of another, as this would be considered the 
 height of baseness and injustice. Bequests on a death-bed are good ; and 
 when there are witnesses, which is almost always the case, never disputed. 
 Hospitality is their great virtue. Poverty is not contemptible ; but'cove- 
 tousness is commonly a great reproach, so that t\tcy who are guilty of it 
 are attacked by the whole neighbourhood, and their property destroyed. 
 An Otaheitan, particularly, will give everything he has in the world, sooner 
 than be called peere poere, or stfngy ; at least this was their characteristic, 
 but as they improve in civilization,, property is less readily parted with. 
 
 Their religion is like that of nearly all people ignorant of the blessings 
 of Christianity, a system of polytheism. Each family has its guardian 
 spirit, a figure cut in wood, and set up to be worshipped at the burying- 
 place. Above these are another kind, and superior to all, the Great Spirit, 
 born of night, whose favour is courted only on extraordinary occasions, 
 common affairs being considered beneath his notice. And it is not a 
 little remarkable that in Otaheite there are Tane, te Medooa, the father ; 
 Oromattow, toca tec te Myde, God in the son ; Taroa, Mannoo te Hooa, 
 the Llrd, the spirit. 
 
 They firmly believe in a future state, saying that no one perishes or 
 becomes extinct. Punishments after death arc not credited ; but degrees 
 of eminence admitted according as persons have acted correctly in the 
 sight of the deity. Every sickness or serious accident is considered a 
 judgment of Ph-Qvidence ; an offering is, therefore, made to avert the evils 
 attendant on the supposed transgression. The priests, though numerous, 
 have abundance of employment in births, deaths, sickness, and feasts, 
 being physicians in addition to their cleric^.l functions. They possess 
 great power, and are much dreaded, as being thought capable of inflicting 
 or removing diseases, and even, on some occasions, producing death itself. 
 The most horrible rite is that of human sacrifices. The victims are of 
 the lowest class of the people, and always slain treacherously. When 
 dead, the body is carried to the m'orai or burying-ground, where the eyes 
 are scooped out and offered to the king, who always attends on such an 
 occasion, and is supposed to derive pecuhar virtue from this horrible 
 donation of the principal organ of the deceased. 
 
 The colour of the islanders is naturally an olive, but the sun and use 
 of oil render the majority something darker. The women, taking moni 
 care of themselves, display their proper hue, and are generally distin- 
 guished for many feminine characteristics as well as now and then for 
 beauty. The men are, in general, larger than Europeans ; and both sexes 
 live to an old age, if not given to debauchery. The dress of both is two 
 or three pieces of cloth, thrown over or wound round the body, bat 
 frequently a single rag round the middle forms the only covering. The 
 women uncover their shoulders and breasts in presence of a chief, or in 
 passing the moral. Neither are they often permitted to eat with the men. 
 Tattooing is general. The operation is painful, but so great is the orna- 
 ment in their eyes, that the girls, though struggling and screeching under 
 it, persist in being thus adorned? Garlands of flowers are common to 
 both men and women. Children are seldom chidden and never beaten ; 
 their passions are, therefore, never attempted to be controlled, and this is, 
 probably, one reason why savages in general give way to them so readily. 
 Their ingenuity in constructing their implements, canoes, ornaments, and 
 other wants, is very great. All are good judges of the weather. When 
 out of sight of land they steer by sun, moon, or stars, but their voyages 
 *re necessarily very short, or these guides would be of little use. 
 
THE 
 
 VOYAGES 
 ROUND THE WORLD 
 
 FERDINAND MAGLIANES, OR MAGELLAN, 
 
 THE FIRST CIRCUMNAVIGATOR. 1519-23. 
 
 CoLUMSUs appears to have been the first who imagined the practicability 
 of sailing round the world, and he left Spain for that purpose ; but the 
 intervention of the western continent stopped his progress, and the 
 honour of completing his design was obtained by Ferdinand Magellan, 
 commander in an expedition fitted out by the Spanish government. 
 
 Magellan was by birth a Portuguese, descended from a good family, 
 and born toward the end of the fifteenth century. His youth was oc- 
 cupied in maritime affairs, and we find him in early life serving up- 
 ward of five years in the Indian Seas, as an otiicer in the squadror 
 commanded by the Portuguese admiral, Albuquerque. 
 
 For his services on those seas, Magellan applied to the government 
 for some recompense ; but this being treated with neglect, he left his 
 own country to seek employment in a foreign land. In company with 
 Ruy Falero, an eminent astronomer, and one of his associates, he tra- 
 velled into Spain, and explained to Charles V., the reigning monarch, 
 his project of making discoveries in distant seas. The Portuguese am- 
 bassador denounced Magellan and his companion as deserters, and vilely 
 depreciated their courage and capacity, at the same time privately offer- 
 -ing them pardon and rewards, if they would return and serve their 
 native prince. 
 
 Cardinal Ximenes was then at the head of the Spanish ministry ; 
 and the court, now tolerable judges of naval affairs, listened to the ad- 
 venturers, creating them knight of the order of St. James, and adjusting 
 terms to their advantage and satisfaction. 
 
 Magellan's idea was, that a passage might be found to the South Sea 
 by some stiait or opening on the American coast — that what Columbus 
 had asserted of the possibility of discovering a passage to the East 
 ' Indies by the west, would be found true in point of fact. If this were 
 accomplished, the profits of both Indies would revert to Spain, as the 
 pope's grant conceded to Spain all countries west of the Atlantic, and 
 any discovery made from the west would fall within the terms of it. It 
 was stipulated that the undertakers should have a twentieth part of the 
 profits with t!ie government, to them and their heirs, of the places to bo 
 discovered, and the title of king's lieutenant. 
 
 Magellans little squadron coftsisted of five ships — the Trinidad, 
 having on board Gomez, an experienced Portuguese pilot ; the Santa 
 Viitoria, under Lorenzo Mendo..a ; the St. Antonio, commanded by Juan 
 do Carthagcna ; the St. Jago, of which Juan Serrano was captain ; and 
 
28 VOYAGES ROUND THE WaRLI>. 
 
 tliG Conception, under Gaspar de Quixida. These ships were manned 
 with two hundred and thirty-seven men, and among them were thirty 
 Portuguese, on whose matured skill the admiral placed his chief depen- 
 dence. Their supply of provisions, ammunition, and stores, was on au 
 estimate of two years. 
 
 From the first, great hopes were entertained of this voyage, and the 
 men in general embarked with singular alacrity, elate with the prospect 
 of JoadintT themselves with gold. Their ultimate destination was a secret j 
 the admiral liad only signified to his people, in general terms, that he was 
 going ir^ search ofundiseovered countries. 
 
 On the 1st o:" August, 1519, they loft Seville, and on the 27th of Sep- 
 tember sailed from Sanlucar, steering for the Canaries. They refreshed 
 at Teneriffo, and early in October passed the Cape de Verd islands. 
 Thoy were leng in sight of the coast of Guinea and Sierra Leone, detained 
 by tedious cahm. and here they savv a number of birds and fishes with 
 Tvhich they were totally unacquainted. They held on their course, bear- 
 ing along the coast of Africa, till they crossed the line, seventy days after 
 their departure. 
 
 In the beginning of December the admiral came to that part of Brazil 
 which now is called the Bay of St. Lucia. Here they landed on plain, 
 low lands, and remained in the bay till December 27th, having had fre- 
 quent intercourse with the natives. Some days subsequently to this, the 
 admiral anchored his squadron at the mouth of a large river, supposed to 
 be the Rio Janeiro. The inhabitants were olive-coloured, and flocked 
 to the beach in great numbers, beholding, as they imagined, five sea mon- 
 sters approaching the shore. When the boats put out from the ships, the 
 natives set up a great shout, conceiving them to be young sea monsters, 
 the offspring of the others. 
 
 On the Spaniards landing, a commercial intercourse took place, and 
 the natives frequently went off to the ships in their canoes. Provii&ons 
 and refreshments of various kinds were in such abundance, that for a 
 knave out of a pack of cartas six fowl were gladly given in e.vchange. 
 Here they continued about a fortnight. 
 
 In some parts of Brazil where they landed, they found fruits, sugar 
 canes, and different sorts of animals in great abundancp ; and in the largest 
 of seven i^-lands, at the mouth of a great river, they found a quantity of 
 jewels : they gave it the name of St. Mary. 
 
 Coasting onward toward the south, they discovered two islands so full 
 of seals and penguins, that in an hour they could have catched a num- 
 ber .sufficient to load all their ship. The penguins are a large black fowl, 
 with a bill like a raven's : they are reniarkably fat, covered with down 
 instead of feathers, and live entirely upon fish. 
 
 Proceeding along the South American coast, thoy arrived at an immense 
 river, conceived to be that since called La Plata. The St. Jago was 
 sent to examine whether there was any passage through it. That vessel 
 was absent fifteen days : she went up twenty-five leagues, and brought 
 the notice that the river turned toward the north. During this interval 
 Magellan himself, with two other ships, had rua along the coast twenty 
 leagues to the south. 
 
 After these inquiries the squadron proceeded, sailing along the shore 
 till they arrived, in April, 1520, at a large bay, now called by the name o1 
 St. Julian. Here, for the first (some accounts say the second) time, they 
 saw a wild, gigantic race, of great fierceness, who made a roaring not 
 «»like that of bulls. At first the Spaniards thought the country unin- 
 
MAGELLAN. 29 
 
 habite<], till after an interval of some weeks they saw a savage come 
 singing and dancing toward them. When arrived on the beach he threw 
 dust on his head, and some of the sailors going on shore and performing 
 the same ceremony, he went on board with them v/ithout scruple. His 
 stature was such ihat a middle-sized man would reach but iiitle above 
 his waist, and his whole figure was strong in proportion. His hair was 
 white, his body painted yellow, and he had a stag's horn drawn on each 
 cheek. Round his eyes were great round circles, and his covering was 
 the skin of some animal that resembled a camel in shape, with the ears 
 of a mule and the tail of a horse. He was armed with a bow, the string 
 of which was made of the guts of the same beast, and the heads of his 
 arrows were ti])ped with sharp stones. 
 
 When conclucted to Magellan he pointed to the sky, as if to inquire 
 whether the Spaniards had descended thence. The admiral entertained 
 him to his satisfaction ; but happening to cast his eyes on a looking-glass, 
 he was so terrified or agitated that, starting backward, he beat to the 
 ground two men who stood behind him. 
 
 The civil treatment this man received induced others to come on board, 
 whose behaviour afforded great entertainment to the officers. One of 
 them ate a basket full of ship biscuits, and drank a large bowl of water 
 at a meal. The natives, as before observed, were much larger than 
 Europeans : and their bodies painted with various figures ; they carried 
 bows and arrows, and were clad in garments made of the skins of beasts. 
 They wore sandals, or a kind of shoe made also of skins, and this caused 
 their feet to appear like those of an animal. Magellan named them Pata,- 
 goncs, from the S{)anish word fata^ signifying a hoof or paw. 
 
 These Patagons, or Patagonians, had no fixed place of abode, but 
 wandering about erected for themselves a hovel or kind of hut, made of 
 skins like those which covered their bodies. Their chief food was raw 
 flesh, and a certain sweet root called Capar. It is reported of them, that 
 if they are ill, they take emetics, or bleed themselves, by chopping the 
 part affected with some instrument. 
 
 Magellan determined to continue here till the return of spring, as it is 
 winter in the southern hemisphere during our summer. He h^d ordered 
 the allowance of provi-sions to be shortened, to meet this exigence, which 
 caused much discontent among the crews. The captains of three ships 
 conspired against the life of the admiral, having had several altercations 
 with him during the voyage. It was represented that the King of Spain 
 did not expect them to accomplish impossibilities, that they had already 
 proceeded farther than any other vessels, and they proposed that the fleet 
 should return immediately to Europe. As Magellan persisted in his de- 
 termination to execute his original intention, a mutiny was the conse- 
 quence, which was not quelled till Captain Lewis de Mendoza, being 
 brought to a trial, was hanged, and Captain Juan de Carthagena, and some 
 others with him, were sent on shore, to be left among the Patagonianaf. 
 Before they quitted the station, they took solemn possession of the 
 country by the erection of a cross. 
 
 Five dreary months were passed in the harbour of St. Julian, during 
 which every possible exertion was made to insure the successful prose- 
 cution of the voyage. Before they quitted it, Magellan was guilty of a 
 notorious breach of hospitality toward two of the natives. Wishing to 
 convey them into Spain, as objects of curiosity, he practised a stratagem 
 to hinder them from availing themselves of their superior strength. First 
 presenting them with knives, beads, and toys, so as completely to fill their 
 
 3* 
 
30 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 hands, some bright iron rings and shackles were shewn to them, and as 
 their hands were full, Magellan proposed to put them on their legs. Con- 
 ceiving them to be ornaments, and pleased with their jingling sound, they 
 unsuspectingly assented, until they found themselves fettered and betrayed. 
 They then struggled, but in vain, to liberate themselves, and gave vent to 
 their feelings, by bellowing in a most frightfal manner. Soon after this 
 act of duplicity, the natives attacked a party of Spaniards that were on 
 shore, and killed one of them. Magellan, in revenge, sent oil" twenty 
 men with orders to pursue the natives in every direction, and to take 
 or kill every one they should find. After a search for eight days, they 
 returned, without accomplishing their object, all the Indians having 
 retired into the interior of their country. 
 
 On the 24th of August, 1520, the squadron again set sail, the weather 
 being fine, and they proceeded on their passage southward, till a violent 
 gale from the east drove one of their vessels, commanded by Juan Ser- 
 rano, on shore, but happily the crew and cargo were saved. With the 
 four rem-aining ships, Magellan entered a river about thirty leagues from 
 St. Julian, where, in a convenient part, he found plenty of wood, water, 
 and fish, and in expectation of a better season, he remained in that station 
 till the 18th of October. 
 
 Putting again to sea, and still coasting southward, they discavered, 
 on the festival of the Eleven Thousand Virgins, a cape to which they 
 affixed that name. Near this cape an opening was discovered by the 
 Vittoria, which was found afterward to be a strait, and received its name 
 from the ship. Upon this, Magellan gave orders that all the other ships 
 should carefully examine the strait, promising to wait for them a certaiu 
 number of days. While the three vessels were employed in this expedi- 
 tion, one of them, commanded by Olivarey Misquitos, his cousin, was 
 driven out of the strait by the reflux of the tide, when the crew, dissa- 
 tisfied with their situation, rose on the captain, made him prisoner, and 
 again set sail on their return to Europe. One of the other two ships 
 had discovered a large bay, obstructed with rocks and shoals, but the 
 other had sailed on three days, without any interruption ; and from the 
 depth of the water, the height of the mountains on each side, and their 
 observations on the tides, there was every reason to believe that this pas- 
 sage was a strait by which a communication was opened between the 
 Atlantic and Indian Oceans. 
 
 Notwithstanding these promising appearances, Magellan waited for 
 Misquitos' ship for several days beyond the time he had fixed, when, after 
 a consultation with the other commanders, he entered that strait or arm 
 of the sea which has ever since retained his name. The entrance lies 
 in 52 degrees south latitude, and the strait, which is about 110 leagues 
 in length, is very wide in some places, and in others not more than half 
 a league from shore to shore. On both sides the land was high and 
 irregular, and the mountains were found to be covered with snow, en 
 advancing about 50 leagues west from the entrance. In several places, 
 however, the lower lands near the shore were clad with trees and verdure, 
 and presented on each side a number of beautiful and picturesque scenes. 
 
 In about six weeks from their entering this passage, they found them- 
 selves again in an open sea, the coast terminating v^^estward in a cape, and 
 the shore of the continent taking a northerly direction. The sight of the 
 Pacific Ocean, or great South Sea, gave Magellan the utmost joy, he 
 being the first European who sailed upon it. Magellan came to the end 
 of the strait, and entered it on the 28ih of November, 1520. 
 
MAGELLAN. ^1 
 
 Magellan w-aa desirous of stopping here, for the purpose of refreshing 
 his men, but the natives were so addicted to thieving, that he was obliged 
 to repress their depredations by force. Flocking on board the ships in 
 iraraense numbers, they endeavoured to carry off everything within their 
 reach, and they even seized one of the boats. Magellan, in revenge, 
 landed with ninety of his men, killed a number of the inhabitants, set tire 
 to their houses, and to stigmatize these islands, called them Islas de las 
 Ladrones, or the islands of Thieves and Robbers. 
 
 The people were of an olive complexion ; the men went naked, except 
 a few, who wore a kind of bonnet on their heads, made of the leaves of 
 the palm tree. Their hair was black and very long, reaching down to 
 the waist. They anointed their bodies with the oil of the cocoa-nut, 
 and stained their teeth black or red. The women wore coverings made 
 of the inner bark of the palm tree ; they were much handsomer than the 
 •men, and had long, thick, black hair, which reached almost to the ground. 
 While the men were abroad, the women employed themselves at home 
 in making nets and mats of the palm tree. Their beds consisted of palm 
 mats laid one upon another. The weapons of these islanders \^ere clubs, 
 on which they had fixed heads of horn. Their food consisted of fowls, 
 flying-fish, figs, bananas, and cocoa-nuts. The sails of their canoes were 
 mnde of broad date leaves, sewed together, and their boats were con- 
 trived so as to sail with either end foremost. In general, the people were 
 painted all over either black, white, red, or some other colour. 
 
 They sailed from the Ladrones on the 10th of March, and next day 
 went ashore at an uninhabited island called Humuna, to which the admi- 
 ral gave the name of ** Good Sighs ;" and here they found excellent 
 water and abundance of fruit trees, with some gold and white coral. 
 During their stay, they were visited by the people of a neighbouring 
 island, Zulvan, who brought them presents of fish, and wine made from 
 the juice of the cocoa-nut. They invited the admiral into their barks, 
 and being invited in return on board the ships, a great gun was fired in 
 compliment to them, which was, so terrifying, that the visiters with great 
 difficulty were persuaded to stay on board. 
 
 The natives had also in their canoes several kind of spices, and diffe- 
 rent , ornaments made of gold, which they were accustomed to sell as 
 merchandise. In person they were short and thick, of an olive colour, 
 with gold and jewels in their ears, and pieces of gold fastened to their 
 arms ; they had also daggers, knives, and lances, ornamented with the 
 same metal. Their chief clothing was a species of cloth round the mid- 
 dle, made from the inner bark of some tree, but the principal persons wero 
 distinguished by a piece of silk needle-work wrapped about their heads. 
 
 The Spaniards continued at this island somewhat more than ten days, 
 during which they recovered, in a great measure, from the effects of 
 their late sufferings ; they were likewise enabled to lay in a considerable 
 store of provisions, wood, and water, for the supply of the ships. 
 
 They left the place on ihe 25th of March, and sailing W. S. W., 
 arrived on the 28th at another island, which Magellan calls Buthuan, but 
 which is not marked in the modern maps. Two of his ofScers went on 
 shore, and were introduced to the king, in a building like a great hay-loft, 
 thatched with palm leaves, and elevated so high on posts of timber, that 
 there was no access to it but by ladders. The king coming on board, 
 presented Magellan with a quantity of gold and spices, and the admiral 
 gave him in return two garments of cloth, made in the Turkish fashion, 
 one red and the other yellow, and among those of his retinue he distri- 
 
32 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 buted knives, glasses, and crystal beads. At their meals the natives sat 
 cross-legged, and instead of candles, burnt the gum of a tree wrapped up 
 in palm leaves. In his person, the king was comely, his hair black and 
 long, and his complexion olive ; he had gold rings in his ears, and three 
 on each finger ; his head was covered with a silken veil, and a piece of 
 cotton wrought with silk and gold hung down to his knees ; he wore a 
 dagger with a handle of gold, the scabbard being of wood, hollowed, and 
 finely carved. 
 
 The men were naked, but painted ; the women had a covering, though 
 only from the waist downward ; they had also gold ear-rings. They 
 were frequently seen to eat a fruit like a pair, cut in slices, and rolled up 
 in leaves like a bay leaf. 
 
 Leaving this place, the king's pilots conducted them to the isles of 
 Zeilon, Zubut, Messana, and Caleghan. In Messana they found dogs, 
 cats, hogs, poultry, goats, rice, oranges, wax, and gold. 
 
 From Messana, the king bearing them company, they sailed to Lubut, 
 distant attbut seventy leagues, and entered the port on the 7th of April, 
 when they fired their great guns, to the great terror of the inhabitants. 
 The King of Messana went on shore, and so represented matters, as to 
 the peaceable intentions of the Spaniards, that the King of Lubut waived 
 the demand of tribute, and offered terms of friendship to Magellan. Then 
 he and his nephew, with the King of Messana, went on board the admiral, 
 after which Magellan visited the king on shore, and found him sitting on 
 a fine mat made of date leaves, with a roll of cotton about his waist. 
 On his head he had a veil of needle- work, a chain of gold about his neck, 
 and jewels in his ears. Before him there lay a number of China vessels, 
 some filled with eggs, and others with date wine. For their entertain- 
 ment, the king made his daughters dance and sing naked before them. 
 
 The people had the use of weights and measures, and are represented 
 as being remarkably just in all their dealings. Their houses were of 
 timber, at some height above the ground, so that the ascent to them was 
 by stairs. 
 
 Magellan pursuaded the king and his principal subjects to embrace the 
 Christian religion, and their baptism was performed with great solemnity. 
 The king was named Charles, and the prince Ferdinando ; at the same 
 time the queen and forty ladies were baptized, and among them the 
 prince's wife, who was young and beautiful. Her head was adorned with 
 a triple crown of date leaves, and her body was covered with a white 
 cloth. On the conclusion of the ceremony, and after hearing mass, the 
 king any his principal people dined on board the admiral's ship, in honour 
 of which visit all the great ordnance was discharged. About five hun- 
 dred persons of inferior rank were likewise baptized, and in eight days 
 time, the whole body of natives, except the inhabitants of one village, 
 followed their example ; whereupon the Spaniards burnt the village, and 
 erected a cross upon the ruins of it. The idols throughout the island 
 were destroyed, and crosses set up in many places. In their traffic with 
 the people, the Spaniards had many advantages, receiving ten pesos of 
 gold in exchange for fourteen pounds weight of iron, and considerable 
 supplies of provisions for any kind of toys. 
 
 From Lubut, or Lebu, one of the Philippine islands, in the neighbour- 
 hood of which they continued several weeks, they sailed to the Island of 
 Mathan, the inhabitants of which offered hogs as sacrifices to the sun, two 
 aged matrons acting as priestesses, singing and dancing about the animal_ 
 and sounding a kind of trumpet made of reeds. After several prayers to 
 
Magellan. 33 
 
 ihc sun, V?ith antic gestures, one of the wonren struck the hog dead with 
 a lance, and put a lighted lanvp into its mouth, which continued burniivg 
 during the ceremony. Their funeral cerenronies were likewise very curi- 
 ous ; all the principal women sitting round the corpse of any chief, &c., 
 five days successively, clothed in white cotton. Til's hair of the de- 
 ceased person was cut off, after which tho widow-surtg a meiTy ev)ng, &c. 
 
 The Island of Mathan being governed by two kings, and one of them 
 refusing to pay tribute to the King of Spain, Magellan prepared to reduce 
 him. The king desired to be on good terms with the Spaniards, and 
 had sent them a present of provisions. As to obedience, he would owe 
 none to strangers, of whom he had never before heard. 
 
 Magellan was accompanied liy sixty Europeans, armed with coats of 
 mail and helmets, and attended by the Kingof Lcbu, with a luimber of his 
 subjects in canoes. Confident in the superior courage and weapons of 
 his men, Magellan declined the assistance of tlie king, fiud marched to 
 some distance into the interior of the island. Here he was attacked by 
 three distinct bodies of the islanders, in front and on each flank. Their 
 united force amounted to upward of six thousand ; their arms were 
 t)Ows, arrows, darts, and javelins. The battle was for some time doubt- 
 ful, till the admiral's impetuosity carrying him too far, he was wounded 
 in the leg with a poisoned arrow, and his helmet being beaten off his head 
 with stones, and being also wounded in the right arm, so that he could 
 not use his sword, he was brought to the ground, then stabbed through 
 the body wit^i a spear, and a lance thrust into his head. Eight or nine 
 of the Spaniards and fifteen of the Indians were also slain. 
 
 The Spaniards would have redeemed tire body of their commander, 
 but the Indians refused to part with it. 
 
 The King of Lebu, who had embraced the Christian faith, now re- 
 tiounced it, and, in concert with his late rival, the King of Mathau, laid a 
 plan for the destruction of the Spaniards. Those of them who remained 
 on Jihore were invited to an entertainment, where, during the repast, they 
 were all murdered, evccpt Don Juan Serrano, whom they kept, in hopes 
 of getting a ransom for him ; this the Spaniards on board would readily 
 have given, but they discovered so much prevarication in the behaviour 
 «f the King of Lebu, that, dreading the fate of their companions, they 
 determined to put to sea. 
 
 When Serrano saw them about to weigh anchor, he fell en his knees, 
 imploring their interposition, in the most moving manner, tha.t he might 
 not be left among the savages ; but their fears, as their whole force 
 ©mounted to only one hundred and fifteen jnen, made them deaf to his 
 entreaties, and what became of him afterward was never known. 
 
 New commanders were chosen from among the surviving officers, and 
 as the ships were now^ in a very bad condition, it was found necessary to 
 make use of one, the Conception, to repair the other two, into which the 
 men, ammunition, and provisions, were transferred. This was at the 
 Island of Bohol. 
 
 One principal object of this expedition had been, to reach the Molucca 
 islands by a westerly course from Europe. Before his death, Magellan 
 had ascertained that they were not far from the Philippines, and his 
 surviving companions now agreed to proceed in search of them. , 
 
 Sailing from Bohol, or Buhol, in N. lat. 9° 30', and steering to the 
 S.W., they came to Chipper, a large island about fifty leagues from Lu- 
 but, in 8 deg. N. lat., and 170 dcg. W. longitude from their first setting 
 out. The island abouiKled with rice> ginger, goats, hogs, &c. The king 
 
34 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 received the Spaniards in a friendly manner, drawing the blood fro-rn hig 
 right arm and marking bis body, face, and the tip of his tongue with it, 
 in token of peace. In this ceremony he was followed by the Spaniard's. 
 Here all the men, ammunition, and stores were landed, and about forty 
 days were occupied in repairing and refitting the ships. 
 
 Sailing W. and S.W. 40 leagues from hence, they came to Caghaian, 
 a hrge island, but thinly inhabited, by Mahometans, a kind of exiles from 
 Borneo, who had great quantities of gold, and made use of pointed ar- 
 rows. Hence they sailed to Puloan, an island abounding in fig^, bata- 
 tos, cocoas, and sugar canes. The people went naked, used poisoned 
 arrows, and were greatly addicted to the cruel sport of cock-Hghting. 
 Their chief drink was a kind of wine (arrack) made of riee^ and which 
 was found to be very intoxicating. 
 
 From Puloan they came to the rich Island of Borneo, the chief city of 
 which contained twenty thousand houses. 1'iie king, who was a Maho- 
 metan, kept a magnificent court ; be sent two elepnants adorned with 
 silk to bring the Spanish messenger (with their presents) to his palace, 
 and afterward he dismissed them with valuable presents. When his 
 subjects approached the king, they lifted their hands close together three 
 times over their heads, then lifted up each foot, and lastly kissed their 
 hands. The island abounded in cattle, fowls, melons, cucumbers, sugar, 
 lemons, oranges, mirabolans, ginger, camphor, and rice ; of which last 
 they make great quantities of arrack. 
 
 From Borneo they sailed to Cimbubon, where they v/ere detained 
 forty days in repairing their ships and taking in wood and water. Os- 
 triches, hogs, and crocodiles were found here in great numbers, and 
 they took a fish whose head resembled that of a hog, but with horns on 
 it ; the body appeared to be an entire bone, and the back was shaped 
 like a saddle. 
 
 Bendhig their ccurse hence to the S. E. for the Moluccas, they 
 came to the islands of Solo Taghima, whence the King of Borneo had 
 received two pearls nearly as big as hens' eggs. 
 
 Pursuing their course from hence, they arrived at the Island of Sa- 
 rangani, where they pressed two pilots for the Mohiccas. In this voyage 
 they came to a beautiful island called Sanger, governed by four kings, 
 and on the 6th of September, in the twenty-seventh month after their 
 departure from Spain, they discovered five islands, which the pilots 
 pronounced to b« the Moluccas. The Portuguese had described them 
 a3 situated among rocks and shelves, surrounded continually with dark, 
 thick fogs, and the shores so shallow that it was dangerous sailing near 
 them. In sailing through the Archipelago, the Spaniards had taken 
 possession of some junks, in one of which they found the son of the 
 King of Luzon, whom the commander set at liberty, without consulting 
 the rest of the company. 
 
 In approaching one of the chief of the Moluccas, they sounded and 
 found the depth of water full a hundred yards, and on the 8th of No- 
 vember, before sun-rise, ihey came to anchor in the port of Tirridore, or 
 Tidor. The king of the island was a Moor or Mahometan ; he gave 
 the Spaniards a kind reception, calling them his brethren and children, 
 and a friendly intercourse was opened for the sale and exchange of 
 merchandise. The king was displeased that the Portuguese had in 
 preference established their fort and factory on the I.^^land of Ternate. 
 Hereby they were enaH'^d to purchase a large stock of sp'.ces, and also 
 to obtain for the shins an abundant supply of provisions. On the island 
 
MAGELLAN. 
 
 35 
 
 ^•as a sort of tree, the bark of which, after being steeped in water, was 
 draa out in fine threads like silks ; these were made into aprons by 
 the women, and worn by them as their only garments. 
 
 From Tirridore they passed to the great Island of Gilolo, inhabited by 
 Mahometans and Pagans. The latter worshipped the first thing they 
 beheld in the morning. Among other vegetable productions in this 
 island, was a reed about the size of a man's leg, which contained a large 
 quantity of pure water of a very good taste. The Mahometan district 
 was governed by two kings, each of whom had a great number of con- 
 cubmes and children. 
 
 On the 1 2th of November, a public warehouse being opened for the 
 exchange of Commodities, for every ten yards of red cloth the Spa- 
 niards received one bahar of cloves, bein^ near seventeen hundred 
 weight ; for fifteen yards of a more ordinary cloth, also one bahar ; for 
 thirty-five drinking glasses, one bahar ; and the same quantity for 
 serenteen cathyls of quicksilver. The inhabitants brought provisions to 
 the ship daily, and water from springs on the mountains where the 
 cloves grew. This water is hot when first taken up, but afterward 
 grows cold. A present was sent from the Moluccas for the King of 
 Spain, consisting of two dead birds, about the size of turtles, with long 
 bills, small heads and legs, and for wings two or three feathers only, of 
 different colours, the rest of the body being a light brown. These birds 
 never fly but when the wind blows to assist them. By thcf Mahometans 
 who thought they came down from heaven, Ihey were called " Birds 
 of Paradise. '* 
 
 The Moluccas were found to be rich in: different productions ; sugar 
 canes, melons, gourds, cloves, ginger, rice, white and red figs, almonds, 
 pomegranates, oranges, and lemons, with another fruit called camdicaly 
 the taste of which was remarkably cold, and a kind of honey made by 
 flies less than ants. There were also poultry, sheep, and goats. When 
 they left the port of Tirridore, they were attended by several kings of 
 the adjacent islands in their canoes, who conducted them to the Isle of 
 Mare, and then took leave of them. The ship Trinidad, however, was 
 unable to keep the' seas, and she was left behind in order to be repaired, 
 to prosecute the remainder of the voyage afterward ; but it appears that 
 she was taken by the Portuguese. 
 
 And now the Viltoria alone, (forty-six Spaniards and thirteen Indians,) 
 wiih fifty-nine persons on board, set sail for Europe ; J. Sebastian del 
 Eleano had been appointed commander at the Island of Borneo. They 
 passed in sight of Ambuno, (so in the Spanish original,) or Amboyna, 
 and the Banda isles, steering on the outside of Sumatra, and avoiding 
 the Portuguese settlements. 
 
 At Mallua, which Ues in 8 degrees S. lat., they staid fifteen days to 
 repair the ship. The people were cannibals ; their arms were bows and 
 arrows, and they wore their hair and beards twisted up in canes. Sail- 
 irig hence W. and N. W. in a long course, they came to the Island of 
 Eude, where cinnamon was found growing in great abundance. 
 
 To double the, Cape of Good Hope with the greater safety, they sailed 
 as lov/ as 42 degrees S. lat., where they were obliged to wait seven 
 weeks for a wind. When they supposed they were approaching the 
 cape, they looked out for land, and discovered part of the coast or 
 coasts of Africa, stretching in a N. E. and S. W. direction ; and on 
 doubling the cape, they were so distressed by hunger and sickness, that, 
 the crew being assembled, many of them proposed to put in at somfi 
 
B6 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 port in Africa for refreshment ; but, from a dread of the Portuguese, tha 
 majority resolved on sailing home. This was on the 1st of July, 1522, 
 at the distance of about twelve leagues from the Cape Verd islands. 
 For two months they held on their course to the N. W. without touch- 
 ing at any port, during which they lost twenty-one persons, and the 
 rest were emaciated, and on the point of starvhig. 
 
 In this situation they arrived at St. Jago, on the Cape de Yerd islands, 
 tvhere they discovered, for the first time, that they differed one whole 
 day in their reckoning of time from the inhabitants of that island. On 
 going ashore, and representing their deplorable circumstances, the Por- 
 tuguese were not backward in relieving their necessities ; but, on a party 
 landing a second time, to purchase some negroes and provisions, and to 
 pay for them with cloves, (clavo,) they were made prisoners, and the rest 
 v/ho were left on board were required to surrender. 
 
 Sebastian continued to insist on the delivery of his men, a bark be- 
 longing to the island passing and repassing between the ship and the 
 shore ; till at length, suspecting some foul play, he weighed anchor, 
 havi.ng on board only twenty-two men, sick and able. The wind being 
 fair they crowded sail, and on the 4th of September came within sight 
 of Cape St. Vincent. On the 7th, 1522, they entered St. Lucar, with a 
 number now reduced to about eighteen persons. According to their 
 reckoning, tbey had sailed 14,000 leagues, and crossed the equator six 
 times, having been absent three years wanting fourteen days. 
 
 Of the fifty-nine that sailed from the Moluccas, some had been put t» 
 death on the Island of Timor for bad conduct, thirteen were detained by 
 the Portuguese at St. Jago, and twenty or more died in the passage. 
 At Seville, the ship's company returned thanks to Providence for their 
 aafe return ; and at Valladolid, where the court resided, Eleano and 
 the other principal officers waited on the emperor, with such natives of 
 the distant islands as had survived the voyage, and with the presents 
 aent by their ships. Among these were several Chinese swords and 
 mamucos, with the rare birds, and abundance of rich spices. 
 
 The emperor, Charles V., bestowed noble rewards on all who had been 
 employed in the expedition, and the whole value of the rich cargo was 
 distributed among them. The leaders he distinguished in a particular 
 manner ; a patent of nobility was granted to Juan Sebastian, and an 
 annual pension of 500 ducats for his life. For his arms the emperor 
 gave him the terrestial globe, with this motto : ' Primus me circumde- 
 disd,' — ' Thou hast first surrounded me.' Sebastian and his companions 
 where honoured by the whole Spanish nation at large ; and the vene- 
 rable bark, the Vittoria, became a worthy subject for the ingenuity of 
 the poets, and as furnishing matter for sundry historical and romancing 
 accounts. The newly discovered strait had at first assumed the name of 
 Vittoria, but it was soon afterward known by the name of Magellan, 
 which it has retained ever since. 
 
 SIR FRANCIS DRAKE.— 1577-1580. 
 
 Mb. Drake was first apprentjced to the master of a small vessel trading 
 to France and Zealand ; at the age of eighteen he went purser of a 
 ship to the Bay of Biscay, and at twenty made a voyage to the coast of 
 Guinea. In 1565, he went to the West Indies, and" in 1567, served 
 under his kinsman, Sir John Hawkins, in the Bay of Mexico. Being a 
 
SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 37 
 
 consl4crable losor by the last two voyages, he made a third in 1570, with 
 two ships, the Dragon and the Swan; and in the following year sailed 
 again to the same parts with the Swan only, with a view to gain such 
 experience and information as might qualify him to undertake some 
 Voyage of mere importance. 
 
 On the 24th of May, 1572, he sailed from Plymouth in the Pasca, 
 burden seventy tons, in company with the Swan, burden tv/o hundred 
 and fifty tons, commanded by his brother, John Drake, with seventy ^ 
 three men and boys, and provisions for a year. 
 
 In this voyage he sacked the town of Nombre de Dios, and after- 
 ward from a high tree saw the South Seas, which inspired him with an 
 ardent desire of carrying an English ship thither. Drake was a great 
 gainer by this expedition, but his generosity and love of justice were 
 very extraordinary, an instance of which is worth recording. Having 
 presented a cutlass to a prince of the free Indians inhabiting the Isthmus 
 of Darien, the prince gave him in return four large wedges of gold, which 
 he threw into the common stock, saying, " My owners gave -me that 
 cutlass, and it is but just they should have their share of its produce." 
 
 In his return to England, Captain Drake sailed from the capes of 
 Florida to the isles of Scilly in twenty-three days, and arrived at Ply- 
 mouth on Sunday, the 9th August, 1573, having been absent one year, 
 two months, and some days. The riches he had acquired he spent with 
 great generosity in the service of his country, fitting out three frigates 
 at his own expense, which he commanded in person, under Walter Earl 
 of Essex, against the rebels in Ireland. 
 
 After the death of Essex, Drake applied himself to Sir Christopher 
 Hatton, vice-chamberlain to the queen, by whose interest he at lengtli 
 obtained the queen's permission for an expedition against the Spaniards. 
 
 His friends contributed largely toward this expedition, for which five 
 ships were fitted out. The Pelican, which he named the Hind, burden 
 one hundred tons, commanded by himself ; the Elizabeth of eighty tons, 
 John Winter, captain ; the Marigold, a bark of thirty tons burden, John 
 Thomas, commander ; the Swan, a fly-boat of fifty tons, commanded by 
 John Chester ; and a pinnace of fifteen tons, of which Thomas Moon 
 was the commander. The ships had one hundred and sixty-four able 
 men on board, a large quantity of provisions, together with four pinnaces 
 stowed in pieces, to be put together whenever they might be wanted. 
 It is said that all the vessels for the captain's table, and. many belonging 
 to the cook-room, were of silver, and other furniture on board propor- 
 tionably grand. 
 
 This fleet sailed out of Plymouth Sound the 5th of November, 
 1577 ; but meeting with a violent storm, in which several of the ships 
 were damaged, were obliged to put back and refit. On the 13th of 
 December they sailed again with a favourable v?ind, and saw no land till 
 the 25th, when they passed Cape Cantin, on the coast of Barbary ; and 
 on the 27ih, came to the Island of Mogador, lying one mile out at sea, 
 between which and the continent they found a safe harbour, where the 
 admiral gave directions for putting together one of the pinnaces, which 
 they brought from England. While the men were engaged in this busi- 
 ness, some of the inhabitants came down, and making signs of peace, 
 the admiral sent one of his men on shore, whereupon two natives ven- 
 tured on board, and told them, by signs, that the next day they would 
 supply the ships with provisions, for which kind OiTer the admiral gave 
 them linen-cloth shoes and a javelin. The next day they came to the 
 
 4 
 
38 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tea-side, agreeable to their promise, when one of the men, whose namd 
 was Fry, leaped hastily among them, imagining they had been friends, 
 when they seized him, and threatening to stab him if he made any re- 
 sistance, carried him up into the country. The sailors were about to 
 attempt to rescue Fry, but seeing others of the natives appear from 
 places where they hid themselves, were glad to recover their boat, and 
 make off to the ship. 
 
 The admiral sent a body of men into the country to recover Fry, and 
 punish the treacherous Moors; but they constantly avoided his people; 
 so that after searching in vain^ they returned to the ship, and sailed from 
 the coast of Morocco on the 30th of December. In the meantime Fry. 
 being e.xamined, declared that the fleet consisted of English ships, under 
 the command of Admiral Drake, bound to the straits ; a report which the 
 commander had circulated to conceal his real design ; wheretipon Fry 
 was sent back with presents for the admiral, and an assurance of friend- 
 ship ; but he being sailed, Fry was afterward sent to England in a mer- 
 chant ship. The admiral arriving at Cape Blanco on the 17th of January, 
 found a ship at anchor with only two sailors left to guard her, which he 
 immediately seized, and took her into the harbour, where they remained 
 four days, during which he exercised his men on shore, to prepare them 
 for land as well as sea service. 
 
 They left this harbour on the 22d, the master of the ba,rk having in- 
 formed the admiral that in one of the Cape de Verd islands, called Mayo, 
 there was plenty of dried cabitos, or goats, which were prepared every 
 year for such of the king's ships as called there. They arrived hero on 
 the 27th of January, but the inhabitants could not trade with them, being 
 forbidden by the king's order, and had left their villages. The next day 
 the admiral landed a body of men, with orders to march into the country, 
 which they found extremely fertile, producing great quantities of cocoas, 
 figs, and a very delicate sort of grapes. This island abounded with salt, 
 dried by the heat of the sun ; and they found many goats and kids, dead 
 and dried, which the inhabitants had laid in their way, but they did not 
 think proper to accept of them. Leaving this place on the Slst, they 
 sailed by the Island of Jago, and seeing two Portuguese vessels under 
 sail, took one laden with wine ; but the admiral detained only the pilot, dis- 
 charging the master and his crew, and giving them some provisions, a 
 butt of wine, their wearing apparel, and one of his own pinnaces. Three 
 pieces of cannon were fired at them from the island, but did them no 
 damage. They arrived the same evening at Del Fucgo, or the Burning 
 Island, so called from a volcano on its north side, from which constantly 
 issues smoke and flame. 
 
 To the south of Del Fuego they discovered the beautiful island of 
 Brava, covered with evergreens, and watered with cooling streams, which 
 pour themselves into the sea, which is so deep around it, that there is no 
 possibility of coming to an anchor. But some of the sailors going on 
 shore found a poor hermit, whose cell was furnished with an ill-contrived 
 altar, some images badly carved, and a crucifix ; and this man appeared 
 to be the only inhabitant of the place. Quitting this group, they sailed 
 toward the line, being sometimes tossed by tempests, and at others quite 
 becalmed. They saw numbers of dolphins, bonitos, and flying fish, which 
 being pursued by the sharks, frequently flew out of the water, and their 
 fins drying, they dropped on the ships, and were unable to rise again. 
 
 Having passed the line, they at length discovered the coast of Brazil on 
 the 5th of April, being fifty-four days since they saw land. As soon as 
 
SIR FRANCIS DRAfcE. 8^ 
 
 the people on shore saw the ships, they made large fires in different parts, 
 and performed various ceremonies to prevail on the gods to sink the ves- 
 sels, or at least to prevent their landing. On the 7th, in a storm of Li{2:ht- 
 ning, rain, and thunder, they lost the Christopher, but happily met with 
 her again on the 11th, at a place which the admiral called Cape Joy, 
 where'they found a harbour between a larye rock and the main, in which 
 the ships rode in safety. At this place they found no other inhabitants 
 but herds of wild deer, but the sailors discovered the print of human feet 
 in the sand. . The air was mild, and the soil rich and fertile. They 
 killed several seals on the rock, which they found to be wholesome food, 
 though not extremely pleasant. Having taken in vvater, tiiey sailed for 
 the great River Plate ; where, finding no good harbour, they put to sea 
 again, and came to a good bay, in which were several islands stocked 
 with seals and fowls, and abbunding in fresh water. The admiral going 
 on shore, the natives caine leaping and dancing about him, and seemed 
 cAtreniely willing to trade, but would touch nothing but what was first 
 thrown down on the ground. 
 
 The Marigold and the Christopher, having been sent to discover a con- 
 venient harbour, returned with the agreeable news that they had found 
 one, whereupon all the fleet sailed thither. The admiral, having no far- 
 ther use for the Swan, ordered her to be burnt, having first divided her 
 provisions and iron work among the rest of the fleet. While they were 
 employed on shore, the natives came to them without fear ; they had a 
 covering made of wild beasts' skins about the middle, wore something 
 wrapped round their heads, and had their faces and bodies painted. They 
 had bows of an ell long, and two arrows each. Two of them being plea- 
 6ed,wilh the admiral's hat, snatched it of his head, and ran away with it, 
 dividing the prize between them, one taking the hat and the other the lace. 
 
 Sailing hence, they anchored in port St. Julian, which name was given 
 it by Magellan, where, the admiral going on shore with six of his men, 
 some of the natives slew the gunner, whose death was revenged by the 
 commander, who killed tlie murderer vrkh his own hand. At this place 
 Magellan having executed one of his company who conspired against his 
 life, Drake caused one of the crew named JDoughty to be tried for the 
 the same offence against himself ; and executed him on the same gibbet. 
 
 On the 17th of August they left the port of St. Julian, and on the 20th 
 fell in with the strait of Magellan, which they entered on the 21st, but 
 found so full of intricate turnings and windings, that the same wind which 
 was sometimes in their favour, was at others against them. This pas- 
 sage is dangerous, for though there is several good harbours and plenty 
 of fresh water, yet the depth of the sea is so groat, that there is no an- 
 choring except in some very narrow river, or between the rocks. On 
 both sides are vast mountains covered with snow to a piodlgious height 
 above the clouds, notwithstanding which the trees and plants near the 
 chore maintain a constant verdure. The breadth of the strait is from one 
 league to four, and the tides rise high from one end to the other. After 
 several difliculties they entered the South Sea on the 6th of September, 
 and on the next day a violent storm drove them two hundred leagues 
 south of the strait, where they anchored among some islands, abounding 
 in water and excellent herbs. On the 3d of October discovered three 
 islands, on one of which was a most incredible number of birds ; and on 
 the 8th, in a storm, lost tiic Elizabeth, Captain Winter, who, being driven 
 back into the strait, took possession of the country in the name of Queen 
 Elizabeth, and afterward arii».iJ safe in England. 
 
40 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLt). 
 
 Being now arrived at the other mouth of the strait, they steered fot 
 the coast of Chili, and on the 29th of November cast anchor at the Island 
 of Mocha) were the admiral, with ten men, went on shore. The inhabi- 
 tants were such as the extreme cruelty of the Spaniards had obliged to 
 seek a refuge here ; and they behaved very civilly, giving the admiral 
 two fat sheep and some potatoes in exchange for some trifling presents. 
 And now continuing their course for Chili, they met an Indian in a canoej 
 who, mistaking them for Spaniards, informed them that at St. Jago 
 there was a large ship laden for Peru. The admiral rewarded him ibi 
 his intelligence, whereupon he conducted them to the pla<*e where the 
 ship lay at anchor. There were only eight Spaniards and three negroes 
 on board, who, mistaking them for friends, welcomed thcmby beat of 
 drum, and invited them to drink Chili wine. Drake accepted the invi- 
 tation, and going on board, put them all un^er hatches, except one, who, 
 leaping overboard, swam on shore to give notice of the coming of the 
 English : upon which, the inhabitants quitting the town, the admiral se- 
 cured his prize, and then going on shore, rifled the town and chapel, from 
 which he took a silver chalice, and other articles. They also found in 
 the town a large quantity of Chili wine, which the admiral sent onboard, 
 and then steered for Lima, the capital of Peru, having first discharged all 
 his prisoners except one, whom he kept for a pilot. Proceeding to sea, 
 the admiral examined the valuts of the booty he had taken, which exceed- 
 ed thirty-seven thousand Spanish ducats of pure gold of Baldivia : con- 
 tinuing their course, they put into the harbour of Coquimbo, where the 
 admiral sending fourteen men on shore to fetch water, the Spaniards 
 sent three hundred horse and two hundred foot to attack them ; but the 
 English, making a good retreat, reached their vessels with the lose of only 
 ene man, who was shot ; and the next day, the admiral ordering some 
 of his people on shore to bury him, the Spaniards displayed a flag of truce ; 
 but the sailors doubting their sincerity, returned to the ships as soon as 
 they had buried their companion. From this place they sailed to the 
 port of Tarapaxa, where some of them, going ashore, found a Spaniard 
 Asleep, with eighteen bars of sdver, worth four thousand Spanish ducats, 
 laying by his side, which they took away without waking him ; and not 
 far from the same place, going ashore for water, they met a Spaniard and 
 an Indian driving eight Peruvian sheep, each sheep having on his back 
 two leather bags, and each bag containing fifty-two pounds weight of 
 very fine silver. They took away the load, and permitted the Indian 
 and Spaniard to drive on the sheep. 
 
 Entering the port of Lima on the 13th of February, they found twelve 
 sail of ships at anchor unguarded, the Crews being all on shore. Exa- 
 mining these vessels, they found a chest filled with rials of plate, which, 
 together with some silks and linen, they made prize of; but having intel- 
 ligence that a rich ship, called the Cacafuego, was lately sailed from that 
 harbour for Paita, th« admiral determined to follow her, but, on his arri- 
 val at Paita, found she had sailed for Panama. They met with another 
 prize, however, in which, besides ropes and other useful tackling for 
 ships, they found eighty pounds weight of gold, and a crucifix of the 
 same metal, adorned with emeralds : but resolving still to proceed in 
 search of the Cacafuego, the admiral promised a golden chain, which he 
 usually wore about his neck, to the first person who should discover her ; 
 which fell to the share of Mr. John Drake, who first saw her about three 
 o'clock in the afternoon. Having come up with the chase about six 
 o'clock, they gave her three shots, which brought away the mizzen-mast, 
 
SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 41 
 
 whereuf)on they boarded her, and found thirteen chests full of rials of 
 plate, eighty pounds weight of gold, a quantity of jewels, and twenty-six 
 tons of silver in bars. 
 
 The admiral finding, among other rich pieces of plate, two large silver 
 bowls gilt, which belonged to the pilot, told him he must have one of 
 them, which the pilot readily complied with, delivering the other to the 
 admiral's steward at the same time. Continuing their course to the west, 
 they met with a ship laden with linen cloth, china dishes, and silks ; from 
 the owner of which, aSpaniard, who was then on board, the admiral took 
 a falcon of massy gold, with a large emerald in the breast of it ; after 
 which, they seized such of the effects as they choose, and dismissed the 
 vessel, keeping the pilot of her for their own service. This pilot con- 
 ducted them to the harbour of Guatulco, in which town he said there 
 were only seventeen Spaniards. The admiral and some of his people 
 going on shore, entered the town, and proceeding directly to the hall of 
 justice, found a court sitting, and the judge ready to pass sentence on 
 several pdor negroes, who were accused of a plot to fire the tovim. But 
 the admiral seized every person present, and sent them on board his ship ; 
 from whence he compelled the judge to write to the people of the towri 
 to keep at a distance, and not attempt to make any resistance. This 
 being done, they ransacked the place, but found nothing of value, except 
 a bushel of rials of plate and a chain of gold set with jewels, which an 
 English sailor took from a rich Spaniard who was flying out of the town. 
 
 Mr Drake having now revenged bothjhimself and his country on the 
 Spaniards, began to think of the best way of returning to England. To 
 return by the strait of Magellan (and as yet no other passage had been 
 discovered) would, he thought, be to throw himself into the hands of the 
 Spaniards ; he therefore determined to sail westward to the East Indies, 
 and so following the Portuguese course, to return home by the Cape of 
 Good Hope. But wanting wind, he was obliged to sail toward the north, 
 in which course, having continued at least six hundred leagues, and being 
 got into forty-three degrees north latitude, they found it intolerably cold, 
 upon which they steered southward, into thirty-eight degrees north lati- 
 tude, where they discovered a country, which, from its white cliffs, they 
 called New Albion, though it is now known by the name of California. 
 
 They here discovered a bay, which entering with a favourable gale, they 
 found several huts by the water-side, well defended from the severity of 
 the weather. The men go quite naked, but the women have a deer-skin 
 over their shoulders, and round their waists a covering of bull-rushes, 
 dressed after the manner of hemp. 
 
 These people bringing the admiral a present of feathers, and cauls 
 of net- work, he entertained them so kindly and generously, that they 
 were extremely pleased, and soon afterward sent him a present of fea- 
 thers and bags of tobacco. A number of them coming to deliver it, 
 gathered themselves together at the top of a small hill, from the highest 
 point of which one harangued the admiral, whose tent was placed at the 
 bottom ; when the speech was ended, they laid down their arms, and 
 came down, offering presents, at the same time returning what the 
 admiral had given them. 
 
 The arrival of the English at California being soon known throughout 
 the country, two persons, in the character of ambassadors, came to the 
 admiral and informed him, in the best manner they were able, that their 
 king would visit him, if he might be assured of coining in safety. 
 Being satisfied in this point, a numerous company soon apoearcd, in the 
 
 4* 
 
42 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 front of which was a very comely person, bearing a kind of sceptre, on 
 which hung two crowns, and three chains of great length. The chains 
 were made of bones, and the crowns of net-work, curiously wrought with 
 feathers of various colours. 
 
 The men being drawn up in line-of-battle, the admiral stood ready to 
 receive the king within the fences of his tent. The company having 
 halted at a distance, the sceptre-bearer made a speech half an hour long, 
 at the end of which he began singing and dancing, in which he was 
 followed by the king and all the people, who, continuing to sing and 
 dance, came quite up to the tents ; when sitting down, the king took off 
 his crown of feathers, placed it on the admiral's head, and put on him 
 the other ensigns of royalty ; and he also made him a solemn tender oi 
 his whole kingdom : all which the admiral accepted, in the name of the 
 queen, his sovereign, in hopes that these proceedings might, one time 
 or other, contribute to the advantage of England. 
 
 The admiral and some of his people travelling to a distance up the 
 country, saw such a number of rabbits, that it appeared an entire war- 
 ren : they also saw deer in such plenty as to run a thousand in a herd. 
 The earth of the country seemed to promise rich veins of gold and silver, 
 some of the ore being constantly found upon digging. The enterprising 
 commander at his departure set up a pillar with a large plate on it, on 
 which was engraved her majesty's name, picture, arms, and title to the 
 country, together with his own name, and the time of his arrival there. 
 
 Sailing from this hospitable country, they lost sight of land till the 
 13th of October, when they saw the Ladrone islands, from v/hence came 
 off a great number of small vessels, laden with cocoas and other fruit. 
 These vessels on the outside were smooth and shining, like burnished 
 horn ; on each side of them lay two pieces of wood, and th". inside was 
 adorned with while shells. These people at first dealt fairly, but soon 
 began to steal whatever they could get at, refusing to give up whatever 
 they had seized ; whereupon the English determined they should come no 
 more oh board, which so enraged them that they began to flmg stones ; 
 but a gun being fired, they leaped into the water, and sheltered themselves 
 under their vessels, till the ship was at a distance ; and then putting their 
 boats right in the water, made the best of their way to the shore. 
 
 They came to other islands, which appeared to be very populous, on 
 the 18th ; and passed by the islands of Tagulada, Zewarra and Zelon, 
 whose inhabitants were friends to the Portuguese. The first of these 
 islands produces great quantities of cinnamon. 
 
 The admiral held on his course without delay, and on the 4th of No- 
 vember, fell in with the Moluccas, and proposuig to sail for Tirridore, 
 coasted along the Island of Mutyr, which belongs to the Kmg of Ternate, 
 but in the way met his viceroy, who, seeing the admiral's ship, went on 
 board without fear, and advised him not to go to Tirridore, but sail di- 
 rectly for Ternate, because his master, who was an enemy to the Portu- 
 guese, would not deal with him, if he had any concerns w^ith the people 
 of Tirridore, or the Portuguese who were settled there. Hearing this, 
 the commander steered for Ternate, and coming to an anchor before 
 the town early the next morning, his firtt step was to send a messenger 
 to the king, with a velvet cloak, as a present, and to assure him that his 
 only design in coming thither was to exchange his merchandise for such 
 provisions as the island afforded. His majesty returned a kind answer 
 to the admiral, assuring him that a friendly correspondence with the 
 English would be highly agreeable to him ; that they were welcome to 
 
! 
 
SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 43 
 
 the produce of his kingdom, which, together with himself, he should be 
 proud to lay at the feet of his royal mistress, and acknowledged her for 
 his sovereign. 
 
 The king having determined to visit the admiral on board his ship, 
 sent a number of his most considerable people in four large pleasure- 
 barges, who sat under a large canopy of perfumed mats, which reached 
 from one end of the vessel to the other, and was supported by a frame 
 made of reeds. They were all dressed in white, and attended by a 
 number of servants clothed in the same colour, behind whom stood se- 
 veral ranks of soldiers, and on each side of the vessel were the rowers, 
 in three galleries, one above another. The soldiers were furnished with 
 warlike instruments of various kinds, and well accoutred. 
 
 The admiral having made the king and his principal people some valu- 
 able presents, his majesty took his leave, promising to come on board 
 again the next day ; and that evening sent him a quantity of rice, fowls, 
 fruit, sugar, and other provisions. The king did not go aboard the next 
 morning, but sent his brother and the viceroy to invite Drake on shore, 
 while they were to remain on board as hostages for his safe return. 
 The admiral did not think proper to accept the invitation, but sent some 
 of his officers on shore, detaining only the viceroy till they came back. 
 They were received on their landing by another of the king's brothers, 
 and several persons of quality, and conducted to the castle in great state, 
 where they found a court of at least a thousand persons, the chief of 
 whom were sixty elderly men, who formed the council, and four 
 envoys from Arabia, in scarlet robes and turbans, who were there to ne- 
 gotiate matters of trade between Muscat and Teraate. The king came 
 in, guarded by twelve persons bearing lances, while a large canopy of 
 gold cloth was borne over his head. He was covered with a gold tissue ; 
 in his hair were fastened a number of gold rings by way of ornament, 
 and a large chain of the same metal hung round his neck ; his legs were 
 uncovered, but he wore shoes of a kind of red leather, and several rings 
 set with jewels on his fingers. He spoke to the English gentlemen with 
 great kindness, and sent one of his council to conduct'them back to the 
 ship. He is a powerful prince, having the government of seventy 
 islands, besides Ternate, which is the chief of the Moluccas. The 
 religion of the country is Mahometanism. 
 
 Mr.*Drake having despatched all his business at Ternate, weighed 
 anchor, and sailed to a little inland south of Celebes, or Macassar, where 
 they staid twenty-six days, in order to repair the iron work of the ship. 
 In this island are bats as big as hens, and a sort of land cray-fish, which 
 dig holes in the earth like rabbits, and are so large, that one of them is 
 sufficient to dine four persons. Here they observed a sort of sliining 
 flies in great multitudes, which, flying up and down between the trees 
 and bushes in the night, make them appear as if they were on fire. 
 The whole island is covered with trees, very high and straight, without 
 boughs, except at the top, the leaves of which are like EngUsh broom. 
 
 Setting sail hence, they ran among a number of small islands, and the 
 wind shifting about suddenly, drove them upon a rock, at eight in the 
 evening of the 9ih of January, 1579, and stuck fast till four in the 
 afiernocn of the next day. In this extremity they lightened the vessel, 
 by taking out eight pieces of ordnance, some provisions, and three tons 
 of cloves ; and the wind as suddenly changing again, they made sail, and 
 happily got off. On the 8th of February, they fell in with the fruitful 
 Island of I3aretene, the people of which have very comely persons ; and 
 
44 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 their punctuality in all their dealings, and civil and courteous behaviour 
 to strangers, is very extraordinary. The men have a covering for their 
 heads, and another round their waist, and the women are clothed from the 
 middle to the feet, besides which, they load their arms with eight bracelets, 
 made of bone, brass, or horn, the least of which weighs two ounces. 
 
 Leaving Baretene, they sailed for Java Major, where they met with 
 courteous and honourable entertainment. The island is governed by 
 five kings, who live in perfect friendship with each other. They had 
 once four of their majesties on ship-board at a time, and the company of 
 two or three of them very often. The people of Java are stotit, active, 
 warhke, and go well armed with daggers, swords, and targets, of their 
 own manufacture, and very curious. Their sociableness is such that 
 in each village they have a public house, to which each person carries 
 such provision as he has ; and here they daily join to make a feast, for 
 the promotion of good fellowship. They have a method of boiling rice 
 peculiar to themselves ; first putting it into an earthen pot, in the figure 
 of a sugar loaf, open at the greater end, and perforated all over ; and 
 fixing this. in a large earthen pot full of boiling water, the rice swells 
 and fills the holes of the pot, so that only a small quantity of water can 
 enter. By this method the rice is brought to a firm consistence, and at 
 length caked into a sort of bread, which, with butter, oil, sugar, and 
 spices, makes a very pleasant food. 
 
 They sailed from hence on the 26th of Mardh ; on the 18th of June 
 they doubled the Cape of Good Hope, and on the 22d of July arrived at 
 Sierra Leone, on the coast of Guinea, where they found a great number 
 of elephants, and saw trees on the shore with oysters hanging to them, 
 on which they lived and multiplied. They also found lemons in plenty, 
 with which, and the oysters, all the crew were greatly refreshed after 
 their fatigue ; having put in at no place since they left Java. They 
 stayed here two days, taking in wood, water, and refreshments, when 
 sailing homeward, they were off the Canaries on the 26th ; but, being 
 in no want of provisions, held on their course for Plymouth, and arrived 
 on Monday, the 26th of September, 1580 ; but, according to their own 
 reckoning, on Sunday the 25th ; having gone round the world in two 
 years, ten months, and a few days. 
 
 On the 4th of April, 1581, Queen Elizabeth dined on board Admiral 
 Drake's ship at Deptford ; and, after dinner, conferred on him thje ho- 
 nour of knighthood, telling him, at the same time, that his actions did 
 him more honour than his title. His ship was preserved many years, 
 and when she became decayed, a chair was made from some small remains 
 of it, which is still shown as a curiosity at Oxford. By this voyage 
 England acquired the honour of having the first commander-in-chief 
 who had sailed round the world, Magellan having been killed on his 
 voyage, as before related. 
 
 SIR THOMAS CAVENDISH.— 1586-88. 
 
 Thomas Cavendish, of Tremley, in the County of Suffolk,, esquire, wai 
 a gentleman of a cQnsiderable family, and possessed a large estate near 
 Ipswich. He had an early inclination to the sea, which he indulged on 
 his coming of age, by converting part of his estate into money, with 
 which he fitted out a stout vessel, of 120 tons burihen, called the Tyger, 
 and in which he accompanied Sir Richard Greenville in his voyage to 
 
"% 
 
SIR THOMAS CAVENDISH. 41 
 
 Virginia, in. 1585 ; and having encountered many dangers and difficul- 
 ties, without any advantage, returned safe to Falnaouth on the 6th of 
 October in the same year. 
 
 In this voyage having seen a great part of the Spanish West Indies, 
 and had an opportunity of conversing with several persons who had sailed 
 through the South Seas with Sir Francis Drake, who was by this time 
 raised to the head of his profession, he became emulous of attempting a 
 like adventure ; and, therefore, as soon as he returned home, sold or 
 mortgaged a part of his estate to laise money for equipping two ships 
 proper for the expedition. So intent was he on the business, that in less 
 than a month his carpenters began to work on the large vessel ; and his 
 little squadron was entirely completed and properly furnished in less than 
 half a year. 
 
 Having provided such sea charts, maps, draughts, and accounts of for- 
 mer voyages as could be procured ; and having, by means of his patron, 
 Lord Hunsdon, then lord chamberlain, obtained a commission from 
 Queen Elizabeth, he embarked at Harwich, on the lOih of July, 15S6, 
 on board the largest ship, called the Desire, burthen 140 tons, having 
 w:ith him the Content, burthen GO tons, and a bark, called the Hugh 
 Gallant, of 40 tons, well supplied, at his own expense, with provisions 
 for two years, and manned with 126 officers and sailors. 
 
 From this port he steered to Plymouth, whence he sailed agam on the 
 25lh, and on the next day fell in with eight ships from Biscay, one of 
 which attacked the admiral, but meeting with a warm reception, sheer- 
 ed off. 
 
 On the 5th of August, they fell in with the Island of Forteventura, 
 from which they continued their voyage to Cape Blanco, on the coast 
 of Guinea, by which time the officers and men beginning to complain 
 much of the scurvy, it was determined to put them on shore as soon as 
 opportunity offered. On the ^5ih, fell in with the south side of Sierra 
 Leone, where, going on shorej- they destroyed a negro town ; while a 
 negro killed one of their men with a poisoned arrow. On the 3d of 
 September their boat went four miles up the harbour, and procured a 
 great many lemons, caught a large quantity of fish, and on their return 
 saw a great number of buffaloes. Quitting the harbour of Sierra Leone 
 on the 6th of September, they anchored next day at two miles distance 
 from one of the Cape de Verd islands, where, going on shore, they found 
 an Indian town deserted by its inhabitants, who had left a considerable 
 quantity of provisions behind. 
 
 I'hcy departed from this island on the 10th, and, on the last day of 
 October, sailing W. S. W. on the coast of Brazil, discovered a moun- 
 tain with a high round summit, which at a distance resembled a town. 
 On the 1st of November, sailed in between the town of St. Sebastian 
 and the main land, and, going on shore, employed themselves till the 23d 
 of the month in erecting a forge, building a pinnace, and repairing the 
 damages of their ships. They reached a harbour on the coast of South 
 America on the 27th of November, which the admiral, entering first, 
 called Port Desire, from the name of his ship. Near this harbour, which 
 is very convenient, they found a great quantity of seals and gray gulls- 
 Going on shore, the savages wounded two of the sailors with their arrows, 
 which were made of canes, and headed with flints. These people were 
 of a prodigious stature, the length of one of their feet being eighteen 
 inches, and their height seven feet or better. When one of them dies, 
 he is buried in a tomb formed of stones, by the sea-side, and a number 
 
46 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of shells laid under his head. When the admiral left the place, he called 
 them Patagonians, and the account of them agrees tolerably well with 
 that of Magellan. 
 
 Leaving Port Desire on the 28th of December, and continuing a course 
 S. W. and by S., they fell in with a great cape on the 3d of January, 
 which reaches to the opening of the Straits of Magellan. Anchoring 
 under this cape, a violent storm arose, which lasted three days ; they part- 
 ed from their cable, and on the Gth entered the straits, which were in 
 some places very narrow, and in others five or six leagues wide. On 
 the next day they met with a Spaniard, who informed them there were 
 twenty-two more of the same nation in the vicinity, being all that remain- 
 ed of four hundred, who had been left there three years before. On the 
 8th they anchored at Penguin Island, so called from that bird, great num- 
 bers of which were killed and salted ; and next sailed south and south- 
 west, to a place built by ihc Spaniards, called Cividad del Rey Felippe, or 
 King Philip's City, which had four forts or bastions, each fort having one 
 piece of cannon, which had been buried, and the carriages left standing. 
 
 They sailed hence through several channels, frequently steering diffe- 
 rent courses to the mouth of the straits opening to the Pacific Ocean, 
 which, owing to the contrary winds and the badness of the weather, they 
 did not reach till the 23d of February. On the 24th they entered the 
 South Sea ; and, on the 1st of March, in a gieat storm at night, parted 
 from the Hugh Gallant, about 45 leagues from land, and in 49 degrees 
 south latitude. The storm continued about three days, during wliich 
 this vessel sprung a leak, and it was with the utmost difficulty the men 
 could keep her from sinking ; but, on the 15th, in the morning, she met 
 the other ships between the Island of St. Mary and the main land. ' The 
 admiral and the Content had secured themselves two days during the 
 violence of the storm, at the Isle of Mocha, in 38 degrees south latitude, 
 where some of the company going on shore, well armed, were attacked 
 by the Indians armed with bows and arrows. 
 
 On the 16th the admiral went on shore, attended by eighty men, well 
 armed, and were met by two Indians, who treated them with great respect, • 
 and conducted them to a chapel built by the Spaniards, near which were 
 many store-houses filled with wheat and barley, equal in goodness to 
 that of England. Cavendish invited the two Indians on board, who, 
 after some time, perceiving they were not among Spaniards, began to talk 
 much about the gold mines, intimating, by signs, that if they would go 
 across the country to Aranco, they might furnish themselves with as much 
 of that metal as they pleased. But this the admiral did not think fit to 
 do, and having supplied himself with a good stock of com, hogs, fowls, 
 potatoes, and dried dog-fish, determined to continue his voyage. 
 
 They left this place on the 18th, and next day anchored at an island 
 called the Conception ; sailing thence, they came to the Bay of Quintero 
 on the 30th, and, on the last of the month, fifty men, well armed, marched 
 several miles up the countr}', which they found well stocked with wild 
 cattle, horses, dogs, hares, rabbits, and partridges ; they also saw seve- 
 ral rivers, near which were great quantities of wild fowl. Having pro- 
 ceeded as far as. the mountains, they refreshed themselves on the banks 
 of a pleasant river, and returned to their ships at night. A party of two 
 hundred Spanish horse were in pursuit of the detachment that day, but 
 being seen, would not venture to attack them ; however, on the 1st of 
 April, while the English were on shore filling water, the Spaniards poured 
 down two hundred cavalry from the hills upon them, who killed several, 
 
SIR THOMAS CAVENDISH. 47 
 
 and took a few prisoners ; but a reinforcement of fifteen English coming 
 up, rescued their companions, killed twenty-four of the Spaniards, and 
 drove the rest to the mountains. After this they continued taking in 
 water unmolested for four days, and then put oif to an island at the dis- 
 tance of a league, abounding with penguins and other fowl, with which 
 having plentifully stocked the ships, they continued their voyage north-west. 
 
 On the 15th they arrived at an excellent harbour called Moro-Moreno, so 
 formed by the situation of an island as to admit a ship at either end. At 
 this place the admiral went on shore with thirty men, and was plentifully 
 supplied with wood and water by the Indians, who brought it on their backs. 
 These harmless people lived in a very wild manner, though kept greatly 
 in subjection by the Spaniards. They conducted the admiral and his party 
 to their houses, which were about two miles from the harbour, composed 
 of two or three forked sticks stuck in the ground, a few rafters being laid 
 across from one to the other, and the whole covered with boughs. They 
 subsisted on stinking fish, and their beds were the skins of wild beasts 
 spread on the floor. 
 
 Leaving Moro-Moreno, they proceeded till tho third of May, and then 
 anchored in a bay near three small towns, in about 13 degrees south lati- 
 tude, called Pi&ca, Chincha, and Paracca, where, going on shore at the 
 former, they found some houses deserted by the inhabitants. Here they 
 supplied themselves with wine, bread, figs, and poultry ; but the sea ran 
 so high they could not get on shore at Paracca, which was the prhicipal 
 place. They also found here two ships laden with sugar, molasses, maize, 
 cordovan skins, and other effects, out of which they took what they chose, 
 put the people on shore, and burnt the vessels. It was judged that the 
 cargo of one of these ships would havo yielded them twenty thousand 
 pounds, had a proper market for it been at hand. 
 
 Sailing hence, they came, on the 26th, to the road of Paita, the town of 
 which name is a neat well-built place, containing about two hundred 
 houses. The admiral landing with seventy men, drove the inhabitants to 
 .the hills, from whence they fired small shot upon his party, but the Spa- 
 niards would not come to close quarters ; whereupon the English, having 
 possessed themselves of the town, marched in pursuit up the hills, com- 
 pletely routed them, and brought back considerable property, which they 
 had liid among the mountains. Having seized twenty-five pounds weight 
 of silver, in pieces of eight, they set fire to the town, and to a vessel 
 which lay in the harbour, embarking while the place was in flames. 
 
 Sailing hence to Puna, an island in one degree south latitude, they 
 found a ship of 250 tons burthen in the harbour, which they sunk, and 
 went on shore. 
 
 The cacique having removed the valuable furniture of his palace and 
 other effects to a neighbouring island, the admiral went there on the 26ih, 
 and seizing what he thought proper, had it conveyed on board the ships. 
 They also burnt the church and took away five of the bells. The English 
 were attacked on the 2d of June by a hundred Spaniards, who, with the 
 loss of forty-six of their own men, killed and look prisoners about twelve 
 of the English ; but seventy sailors going on shore the same day, at- 
 tacked and routed one hundred Spaniards armed with muskets, and two 
 hundred Indians with bows and arrows ; and then, destroying their or- 
 chards, also burnt four large ships upon the stocks, together with the 
 town, which consisted of three hundred houses, which was reduced to a 
 heap of rubbish. 
 
 On the 1st of July gamed a sight of New Spain at the distance of foul 
 
48 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 leagues from land; and on the 9th took anew ship of 120 tons, which, 
 haviijg rifled, and taken her pilot, one Sancius, and the crew on board, 
 they set on fire ; and the next day also took a bark, which was destined to 
 give intelligence of their arrival along the coast. 
 
 About the middle of August the admiral and thirty men went in the 
 pinnace to Port Nativity, in 19 degrees north latitude, where Sancius, 
 the pilot of the former ship they had taken, informed him that a rich prize 
 would be found ; but, before their arrival, she had sailed twelve leagues 
 farther to fish for pearls. They, however, took a mulatto, who had been 
 sent to give notice of their arrival along the coast of Neuva Gallicia, and 
 having burnt the town of Nativity, with two vessels of two hundred tons 
 burthen on the stocks, they returned to their ships. On the 26th., sailed 
 into the Bay of St. Jago, where having watered, caught a considerable 
 quantity of fish, and taken some pearls, they left it on the 2d of Septem- 
 ber ; next day sailed a league to the westward of Port Nativity, into the 
 Bay of Malacca, where the admiral and about thirty of his men went ashore 
 to a little Indian town called Acatlan, consisting of upward of twenty 
 nouses and a church, to which they set fire, and went on board again in 
 the night. This bay they left on the 4th, and sailing along the coast 
 with a fair wind, arrived in the road of Chacalla four days afterward. 
 
 On the day after their arrival, the commander sent forty men, with the 
 pilot (Sancius) as a guide, through the woods into the country, where they 
 found a few Indian and Spanish families, and one of Portuguese, all of 
 whom they made prisoners and carried on board the ships. The admiral 
 employed the women to fetch plantains, lemons, oranges, and other fruit 
 on board ; and as a reward for their industry, discharged all their husbands 
 except Diego, a Portuguese, and Sembrano, a Spanish carpenter. On 
 the 24th entered the road of Massatlan, which lies under the tropic of 
 Cancer, where they found plenty of fine fish, and the adjacent country 
 abounded with fruit. They left it again on the 27th, putting in at an 
 island a league to the northward, where they cleaned their ships and new- 
 built their pinnace. Being now much in want of water, one Flores, a 
 Spanish prisoner, advised them to dig in the sand to the depth of three 
 feet, where they found a sufficient quantity for the use of the crew. 
 
 They sailed from this island on the 9th of October, and on the I4th 
 fell in with Cape St. Lucar, on the west point of Cahfornia, a place which, 
 as Sir Francis Drake's people had observed before, exactly resembles the 
 Needles at the Isle of Wight. A fine bay, called by the Spaniards Agu- 
 ada Segura, the banks of which are inhabited by a great number of In- 
 dians during the summer season, is situated within this cape. At this 
 place they watered, and waited for the Acapulco ship till the 4th of 
 November, on which day, in the morning, one of the admiral's crew, going 
 tip the topmast-head, saw a vessel coming in from the sea, on which he 
 cried out, " A sail ! a sail !" 
 
 Everything being immediately prepared, the admiral chased her nearly 
 four hours, when coming up he saluted her with a broadside and a volley 
 of small shot. She appeared to be the St. Anne, a Spanish vessel of 700 
 tons burthen ; some of the admiral's people immediately boarding her, 
 found the crew provided vsrith javelins, targets, and great stones, with 
 which the Spaniards attacked the Enghsh and forced them to retire, with 
 the loss of two men killed and several wounded. The admiral now gave 
 them a second salute with his great and small arms, by which a great 
 number were killed, but they still continued fighting, till a third broadside 
 obliged them to yield or sink ; whereupon they flung, out a flag of truce. 
 
SIR THOMAS CAVENDISH, 49 
 
 strack their sails, and the captain, pilot, and a principal merchant came or 
 board the admiral. The prize contained one hundred and twenty-tw« 
 thousand pezoes of gold, besides great quantities of rich silks, satins, 
 damask, musk, and a good stock of provisions. 
 
 Having obtained this rich booty, ihey put into the harbour of Puerto 
 Seguro on the 6th of November, where the admiral set all the prisoners 
 on shore, to the number of one hundred and fifty, giving them wine, pro- 
 visions, and the sails of their ship, with planks to build houses. The 
 captors now began to divide the booty, when the avarice of some of the 
 sailors caused a considerable disturbance, which threatened a mutiny, 
 but the candid and generous behaviour of Cavendish at length compro- 
 mised all differences. Of the prisoners of the St. Anne were reserved 
 two Japanese boys, three that w«re born on the Island of Manilla, a 
 Portuguese who had visited China and Japan, and a Spanish pilot, who 
 was well acquainted with the seas between Acapulco and New Spain, 
 ■and the Ladrone islands. 
 
 On the 19lh of November, the admiral havmg made a present to the 
 captain of the St. Anne, put him on shore with arms to defend himself 
 against the Indians, and then burnt the ship, with five hundred tons of 
 goods in her, waiting till he saw her destroyed quite down to the edge of 
 the water. This being done, they proposed to sail for England ; and at 
 this time had the misfortune to lose the Content, which remaining behind 
 some little time in the road, they sailed out, expecting she would follow, 
 but they never saw her again. 
 
 They however directed their course to the Ladrones, which held thera 
 till the 3d of January, when, early in the morning, they had sight of one 
 of the cluster called Guam. Sailing on. with a gentle wind, they came 
 v/ithin two leagues of the island, when sixty or seventy canoes, filled 
 with savages, came off to the ships, bringing fresh fish, cocoas, plantains, 
 and potatoes, to exchange vrith the sailors, who gave them pieces of old 
 iron in return. The bits of iron they fastened to cords and fishing hnes, 
 which they threw over the ship's side to the canoes, and received back 
 the provisions by the same conveyance. These savages crowded about 
 the ship in such a manner, that two of their canoes were broke to pieces, 
 but the people diving escaped unhurt ; and they would not leave the ship, 
 at last, till some small arms were discharged. They were very lusty 
 men, of a tawny colour, remarkably fat ; most of them wore their hair 
 very long, but some tied it up in knots on the crown of their head. 
 
 Their canoes, made of rafts of canes, were seven or eight yards in 
 length and half a yard in breadth, furnished with square or triangular 
 sails made of sedges, both head and stern of the vessel being alike, and 
 sailing equally with or nearly against the wind. 
 
 Sailing hence, they fell in with the headland of the Philippine islands, 
 called Caba del Spirito Santo, at day-break, on the l4th of January. 
 The island is large, high in the middle, running a great way into the sea 
 westward. It is one hundred leagues from Guam, and sixty from Manilla, 
 which is the chief of the Philippines, and inhabited by six or seven hun- 
 dred Spaniards. The place has no great strength, but is immensely rich 
 in gold and other valuable commodities. It has a constant annual cor- 
 respondence with Acapulco, and employs twenty or thirty ships to trade 
 to China with the Sangneloes, who are Chinese merchants, extreme good 
 mechanics, and the best embroiderers in silk and satin in the world. 
 The people of Manilla are great gainers by their trade with the Sangue- 
 
 5 
 
50 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 loes, who send great quantities of golJ thither, and exchange it for aiJ 
 equal weight of silver. 
 
 On the next day they fell in with the -Island of Capul, passing a very 
 narrow strait "between that island and another. Coming to an anchor in 
 four fathom water, within a cable's length of the shore, a canoe came up 
 to them, in which was one of the seven caciques, who are joint gover- 
 nors of the island. They passed for Spaniards with these people, who 
 brought provisions,, exchanging a quantity of potatoes, or four cocoas for 
 a yard of fine cloth. The cacique coming on board, they detained him, 
 and desired, by signs, that he would send for his six brother caciques ; 
 whereupon the servants, who managed the caiioe, went for them, and they 
 quickly came with a great number of the people of the island, bringing 
 with them hogs, poultry, cocoas, and potatoes, so that the sailors were 
 fully employed in exchanging, which they did at the Spanish rate, giving 
 eight rials of plate for a hog, and one for a fowl. The pilot, whom they 
 took on board the St. Anne, having laid a plot to betray them to the 
 Spaiiiards, was hanged at this place. 
 
 The people of the island are of a tawny complexion, go almost naked, 
 worship tlie devil, and practise the rite of circumcision. They, as wolf 
 as several other neighbouring islands, have paid tribute to the English, 
 on a supposition that they were Spaniards. The admiral summoned all 
 the caciques on the 23d, and acquainting them that they were English, 
 and the mortal foes of the Spaniards, at the same time paying them in 
 money for the hogs and other provisions which he had received as tribute. 
 These chiefs much admired the admiral's generosity, and promised to 
 assist him with all their forces, if he would make war upon the Spaniards. 
 At their departure, the admiral fired a gun, in compliment to his visiters, 
 after they had several times rowed round his ship to afford him diversion. 
 
 On the next morning, June the 24th, they set sail, steering north-west 
 by several islands, where the Spaniards, having been alarmed, kept fires 
 and a strict watch all night, continually discharging their pieces. They 
 passed the Island of Panama, which is a plain, level country, abounding 
 in tall trees, proper for making masts of ships, and having several mines 
 of fine gold, which are in possession of the Indians. To the southward 
 of this, in nine degrees north latitude, lies the large Island of Negro, a 
 low and fruitful country, where the natives maintain their independency. 
 At six in the morning, on the 29th of June, they j>assed through the strait 
 between Panama and the Negro Island. They met with nothing remark- 
 able from this time till the 1st of March following, when, having passed 
 the straits of Java Major and Minor, they came to an anchor on the 
 south-west of Java Major, where they saw people fishing in a bay under 
 the islandj to v.'hom the admiral sent out a boat v/ith a negro who could 
 speak the Malay tongue, which is much used at Java ; but the people 
 being frightened, ran away to the woods. One of them afterward ven- 
 turing to the sea-side, the negro told him it was expected they would 
 find fresh water for the use of the ship, and desired to be conducted to 
 the king, whom having found, he acquainted him that the admiral was 
 come hither to traffic for provisions, or any valuable commodities the 
 island afforded. 
 
 On the 13th, ten of the king's canoes came off to the admiral, laden 
 with oxen, hogs, poultry, geese, eggs, sugar, cocoas, plantains, oranges, 
 le.mons, wine, and acqua vitae. Two Portuguese who were on the island 
 came on board, and gave them a full account of the manners and customs 
 of the inhabitants. 
 
u OLIVER VAN NOOIIT. 61 
 
 The admiral having paid for the provisions they brought, sailed on the 
 16ih of March for the Cape of Good Hope, and on the lllh of May one 
 of the company spied land, bearing north and north-wtst, at the distance 
 of about forty leagues. Being becalmed on the following t\vo days, they 
 could not get near enough to be certain what land it was ; but, on the 
 14th, found it to be Cape Falso, from which the Cape of Good Hope 
 bears west and by south at near fifty leagues distance. On the 16th 
 they saw the Cape of Good Hope, which, by their reckoning, appeared to 
 be one thousand eight hundred and fifty leagues from Java. 
 
 On the 8ih of June they came within sight of the Island of St. Helena, 
 at the distance of eight leagues ; but, having little wind, could not reach 
 it till the next day, when they came to an anchor near the shore, in 
 twelve fathom water. Going on shore, they entered the church, which 
 was hung with pointed cloths, having an altar with a picture of the Virgin 
 Mary, and the story of the crucifixion. This church stands in a valley 
 so filled with fruit trees and excellent plants that it appears like a vvell 
 cultivated garden, adorned with long- lemon, orange, citron, pomegranate, 
 date, and tig trees, presenting the eye with blossoms, and green and ripe 
 fruit all at the snme time. 
 
 Having taken on board what necessaries thoy wanted, they sailed for 
 England on the 20th of June, and on the 3d of September met with a 
 Flemish vessel, from Lisbon, by which they learned the agreeable news of 
 the total defeat of the Spanish Armada. On the 9ih of September, after 
 a violent storm, which carried away the greater part of their sails, they 
 arrived at Plymouth, from which they had been absent two years and 
 something less than two months ; and soon afterward Mr. Cavendish 
 received the honour of knighthood from Queen Ehzabeth. 
 
 BY OLIVER VAN NOOIIT. 
 (being the first attempted by the dutch.) 15D8-1601. 
 
 SEVER.iL eminent Dutch merchants, about the beginning of the year 
 1598, formed the design of sending some stout vessels tiirough the straits 
 of Magellan, to cruise on the Spaniards in the South Seas, to which they 
 were chiefly induced by the reports of many English seamen, who had 
 served uiider Drake, Cavendish, and others. As the success of the en- 
 terprise depended in a great measure on the capacity of the admiral, 
 Oliver Van Noort, a native of Utrecht, a man in the flower of his age, 
 was pitched upon to take charge of the expedition. Two stout vessels, 
 the Maurice and the Henry Frederic, and two yachts, the Concord and 
 the Hope, manned by two hundred and forty-eight persons, v^ere appointed 
 for this service. The Maurice was commanded by Oliver Van Noort, 
 admiral, the Henry Frederic by James Claasz, vice-admiral, the Concord 
 by Peter Van Lint, and the Hope by John Huidecoope. 
 
 The Maurice and the Concord sailed out of the port of Gorce oti the 
 13Lh of September, 1598, and being joined by the Henry Frederic ami 
 the Hope from Amsterdam, they continued their voyage together for 
 Piymouth, in order to take on board the clothes and other necessaries of 
 their pilot, Mr. Mellish, an English gentleman, who had been abroad 
 before with Sir Thomns Cavendish. 
 
 On the 21st they left Plymouth, with a fresh gale at north-east, and 
 ne.i:t morning missed the vice-admiral's shallop, with sht men on board her, 
 
52 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 in search of whom they began to entertain thoughts of returning to Ply- 
 mouth ; but meeting with an English privateer, tliey learned that the fel- 
 lows had designedly run away with the boat. The escape of these fellows, 
 however, occasioned some rnurmurings among the sailors, whi<ih were 
 increased the next day by the vice-adrniral's losing his other shallop, 
 which he had in low, with a man in her. 
 
 On the 4th of October they met with a fleet of English, French, and 
 Dutch, by whorn they were informed of a dreadful pestilence which had 
 lately destrovod two hundred and fifty thousand persons on the coast of 
 Barbary. On the 4th of December they were off Cape Palma, and on 
 the lOih came within sight of Prince's Island, possessed by the Portu- 
 guese, in one deirrre north latitude, and sending their boats on shore, 
 carried a flag of truce, while a negro with some Portuguese met them 
 with a similar token of peace. The Dutch asked for a supply of provi- 
 sions, which the others seemed willing to grant ; but, while they were 
 talking on this subject, a number of persons, who had lain in ambuscade, 
 attacked them smiij.;aly, and killed several, among whom were the admi- 
 ral's brother and Mr. Mellish, the English pilot. It was determmed in a 
 council of war to revenge this outrage by attacking the castle, but upon 
 tiial finding themselves unequal to this business, they burnt the sugar 
 houses, and having taken in a supply of fresh water, set sail on the 17th 
 for Gonsalvo, where the whids blow from the sea in the day-time, and 
 from the land at night. 
 
 On the 1st of January, 1589, they passed the Island of Annobon, and 
 on the 5th of February reached Cape St. Thomas, on the coast of Brazil, 
 in twenty-two degrees south latitude. On the 9th they came to Rio 
 Janeiro, where the Portuguese killed several of the crew. From Rio 
 Janeiro they went to St. Sebastian, where they harboured in safety, and 
 met with plenty of wood and water. On the 14th of March encountered 
 a violent storm, in which they were parted from the vice-admiral and the 
 Hope, but had the happiness to meet again three days afterward. By 
 this time winter beginning to approach, and the scurvy making so:ne 
 havoc among them, they proposed to put in at St. Helena, but missing 
 that place, were driven on a desolate and barren island, where they found 
 no provisions but a few fowls, which were knocked dovifn with sticks ; 
 they therefore put to sea again, and on the Ist of June, when expecting 
 to have reached Ascension, they found themselves off the continent of 
 Brazil. Tbc Portuguese not permitting them to land, they saded to the 
 little Island of St. Clara, about a mile from the continent, where meeting 
 with some herbs and a kind of sour plumbs, these cured all who were 
 alliicted with the scurvy in fifteen days. 
 
 On the 16th of June they sailed for Port Desire, which is between 
 forty-seven and forty-eight degrees south latitude, b«t having very bad 
 weather, did not arrive there till the 20lh of September. On an island 
 three miles to the south of this place, they caught great quantities of 
 fish, and took fifty thousand penguine, besides a vast number of eggs, 
 which proved very refreshing food to those who were sick. On the 5th 
 of October some of the seamen went on shore, and found beasts like 
 stags and buffaloes, and a great number of ostriches, in each of whose 
 nests were nmeteen eggs. The admiral proceeding also to take a view 
 of the country, left strict orders for those who attended the boats not to 
 leave them ; but disobeying his injunctions, some rambled into the coun- 
 try, where they fell into an ambuscade of savages, who killed three and 
 wounded a fourth. These savages were very tall, nearly naked, painted 
 
OLIVER VAN NOORT. 63 
 
 thoir skins, and were armed with bows and ^rrows. Sailing hence on 
 the 29lh of October, they readied Cape Virgin Mary on the 24th of next 
 month, and attempted to enter the straits of Magellan, but were prevented 
 by contrary winds, rain, hail, and snow ; they also lost their anchors, and 
 broke their cables ; and to add to the train of misfortune?, sickness raged 
 much among the men, who began to complain ; all which accidents 
 uniting together, made it near fifteen months from the beginning of tho 
 voyage, before they were able to enter the straits. 
 
 On the 25ih of November perceived two islands near Cape Nassau, on 
 which were some savages, who shook their weapons at them in token of 
 defiance ; but the Hollanders landmg, pursued them to a cave, which 
 was obstinately defended, every man of the party dying on the spot. On 
 this the Dutch entered the cave, where they found their wives and chil- 
 dren ; and the poor woman expecting immediate death, covered their in- 
 fants with their bodies, resolving to meet their fate in that posture ; but 
 the Europeans only took away four boys and two girls, who were carried 
 on board the ships. One of these boys being afterward taught to speak 
 Dutch, informed them that the largest island was called Castemme, and 
 the other Talcke ; that they abounded in penguins, the flesh of which 
 served the inhabitants for food, and the skin for clothing ; that they caught 
 ostriches on the neighbouring continent, which they al&o ate ; and that 
 they had no habitation but caves under ground. The inhabitants were 
 divided into four tribes, three of which were people of moderate stature, 
 broad over the breast, which ihey always painted, and went naked, except 
 a cloak of penguin skins which reached to their waist ; that the fourth 
 tribe were people of a gigantic stature, being full ten feet high, and con- 
 stantly at war with the other tribes. 
 
 Leaving this place, they sailed toward the continent on the 28th, seeing 
 some whales at a distance, and observed a beautiful river, shaded with 
 trees, covered with a number of parrots, to which place they gave the 
 name of Summer Bay. On the 29th proceeded to Port Fa.nine, where 
 they cut down wood to build a boat ; but finding no good anchoring, 
 doubled Capo Froward on the 2 I of December, and, at the distance of 
 four miles, found a large bay, in which they anchored in safety. Here 
 they found a plant like sneezewort, which proved an excellent remedy for 
 the scurvy ; and another plant, which, being tasted, caused the person 
 who eat it to run distracted for a time, but soon afterv/ard recovered. 
 
 On the 2d of January, 1600, dnparted for Maurice Bay, which was 
 found to extend far to the eastward, receiving into it several rivers, the 
 mouths of which were tilled with ice, which seemed not to melt all tho 
 year round ; for though now near the middle of summer, it was still ten 
 fathoms thick. In this place they were greatly distressed by continual 
 rains and the want of provisions ; and two of their company going on 
 siiore to pick muscles, were murdered by the savages. Sailing on the 17th, 
 they were driven by a storm into a bay at three miles distance, which, 
 from the number of penguins they found there, was called Goose or Pen- 
 guin Bay. At this place the vice-admiral was tried by a conned of war 
 for divers crimes, and sentenced to be set on shore to shift for himself m 
 that inhospitable country. 
 
 On the last of February they passed Cape Desire into the South Sea, 
 their men being now reduced to one hundred and forty-seven ; and soon 
 afterward they lost the Henry Frederic, of which the vice-admiral had 
 been commander. Having waited some time in fruitless expectation of 
 this vessel, they sailed, on the 12th of March to the Island of La Mocha, 
 
 5* 
 
54 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 which lies in 38 degrees south latitude, about two leagues from the con- 
 tinent. This island is lemarkable for a high mountain in the centre, in 
 Which is a large cleft, from whence runs a stream of water to the valleys 
 below. Going ashore at this place, they exchanged hatchets and knives 
 for sheep, fowls, maize, and dilferent sorts of fruit. They also visited 
 the town, which consisted of about fifty houses, built' chiefly of straw, 
 where the inhabitants entertained them with a sour liquor, called Cici, 
 which is chiefly used at their grand entertainments, and is made by soak- 
 ing maize in water. The people of this island purchase their wives, and 
 every one may buy as many as he can keep ; so that it sometimes hap- 
 pens that a man, who has a number of handsome daughters, makes a 
 fortune by the sale of them. They have no laws or magistrates among 
 them ; but if a man kills another, the relations of the murdered person 
 are both bis judges and executioners, but will frequently remit his sen- 
 tence for a treat of Cici. The clothes of the inhabitants are made of 
 the wool of large sheep, which they also employ to carry burdens. 
 
 OtF St. Mary's Island, at the distance of six leaguBsS, they chased and 
 took a Spanish ship, which was carrying lard and meal to Aranco and 
 Conception. The pilot informed them there were two men-of-war wait- 
 ing for their coming at Arica ; on which they determined to sail to Val- 
 paraiso, where they took two ships, and killed several Indians; but the 
 Spaniards had all left the place. Eighteen miles from Valparaiso, up the 
 country, lies St. Jago, which abounds in red-wine and sheep ; these they 
 kill only for the fat, with which alone they lade many vessels every year. 
 At this town some letters asserted, that the Indians of Chili had risen 
 against the Spaniards, sacked the town of Baldivia, took many prisoners, 
 and destroyed great numbers. That they had burnt the houies and 
 churches, and struck off the heads of the popish images, crying, " Down 
 fall the gods of the Spaniards." About five thousand Indians were con- 
 cerned in this action, who bore so perfect an enmity to the Spaniards, 
 that they ripped open the breasts of all they conquered, merely to have 
 the pleasure of tearing out their hearts with their teeth. These Indians 
 had a peculiar method of electing their general : the man who carried a 
 heavy log of timber on his shoulders for the longest time, was to com- 
 mand in chief. Several carried it for four, five, or six hours, but at length 
 one was found who bore its weight twenty-four hours, without reating ; 
 and he was their present general. That part of Chili between Baldivia 
 and St. Jago is one of the finest spots in the world, hf^ving a fine and 
 wholesome air, being remarkably fertile, abounding in cattle and fruits of 
 various kinds, and having abundance of gold mines. 
 
 On the IGth of September arrived at Guana, one of the I^adrones, 
 which is twenty miles in extent, and produces fish, cocoa-nuts, bananas, 
 and sugar cane.?, which the Indians brought in their canoes in groat quan- 
 tities to the ship. Two hundred of these vessels at a time, having each 
 of them four or five men on board, would come bawling to the sides of 
 the ships, calling out, " Hiero, Hiero," that is, iron, of which they are 
 so eager, that they v^rould frequently run against the ships and overset 
 the canoes. Both the men and women were great cheats, and would 
 sell a basket of cocoa-shells, covered with lice at the top, as a bas- 
 ket of rice ; or would snatch a sword out of the scabbard, or take any- 
 thing else they could lay their hands on, and diving into the sea, make 
 their escape. On the 17th sailed for the Philippines, and three days after- 
 ward met with ice, though they were then but in three degrees of north 
 latitude. They anchored in Bayla Bay on the i6th of October, and pro- 
 
OLIVER VAN NOORT. £»5 
 
 tending to be Spaniards, got well supplied with what provisions they 
 wanted. The poor Indians of this place pay a tax af ten rials a head to 
 the Spaniards for every one who is above the age of twenty. These 
 people go naked, and mark their skins with figures so deep that they never 
 wear out. After having got supplies here, they were discovered, where- 
 upon they sailed for the Strait of Manilla, and in their way met with a 
 sudden gust of wind, which carried away their masts and sails. 
 
 On the evening of the 23d they went on shore, and eat palmitos, and 
 drank plentifully of water, soon after which several were seized with the 
 bloody- flux. 
 
 On the 24th entered the strait, and in the evening passed the Island 
 Gapul, seven miles within the strait, and crowded all sail for Manilla, 
 which is eighty miles from Capul, but the wind was against them, besides 
 which, they wanted the assistance of maps and a good pilot. On the 7th 
 of November took a junk of China, laden with provision, for Manilla, the 
 master of which informed them there were at tliat time at Manilla two 
 Inrge vessels, which came annually from New Spain thither ; and also a 
 Dutch ship from Malacca ; that there was a wall round the town, and 
 that the harbour was defended by two forts ; that a prodigious trade was 
 carried on in silks and other valuable commodities between Manilla and 
 China, in which not less than four hundred ships were annually employ- 
 ed ; and that two ships were daily expected from Japan, laden with pro- 
 visions. On the 15th they took two barks laden with swine and poultry, 
 intended as tribute for the Spaniards ; after which they lay at anchor in 
 fifteen degrees north latitude, waituig for the Japan ships, one of which, 
 of about fifty tons burthen, they took on the 1st of December ; this vessel 
 was of a very uncouth shape ; her sails were made of reeds, her anchors 
 of wood, and her ropes of twisted straw ; the people on board her were 
 bald, except a small tuft of hair on the back part of the head. 
 
 On the 9th they took two barks, one of which was laden with rice 
 and poultry, and the other with cocoa, wine, and aqua vitae. On the 14ih 
 they fell in with the two Spanish ships from Manilla, on which a warm 
 engagement ensued, when the Dutch admiral was attacked, and at length 
 boarded by the Spaniards ; whereupon the admiral declared aloud that he 
 would immediately blow tip the ship if* his men did not clear her of the 
 Spaniards, and recover the fortune of the day. The Dutch, animated at 
 once by hope and despair, fought like tigers, and not only drove the ene- 
 my from their ship, but, in return boarding theirs, soon sunk her. In 
 this action the Spaniards lost several hundreds, many of whom were 
 drowned, while the loss of the Dutch amounted only to five killed and 
 twenty-six wounded ; but by this time their whole number of hands able 
 to do duty was no more than thirty-five. Continuing their voyage till 
 the 26th, they came to anchor at Borneo, in a commodious bay three miles 
 in compass, exchanging linen cloth for fish with the neighbouring fisher- 
 men. The admiral sent a messenger to the king, desiring leave to trade, 
 which was granted after the proper officers had been on board, and found 
 that they were not Spaniards, 
 
 On the first of January, 1601, the Borneans having laid a plot to seize 
 the Dutch ship, a great number of natives came toward the vessel in a 
 hundred little boats called proas, and pretending to have presents from 
 the king, desired to be taken on board ; but the Dutch, suspecting their 
 intention, threatened to fire on them if they did not keep off, upon whjch 
 they desisted from the attempt. 
 
 The Island of Borneo is the largest in the East Indies, and the capital 
 
56 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 eity, which bears the same name, consists of three thousand houses, hut 
 is built in such a low, wet situation, that the inhabitants are commonly 
 obliged to go from one house to another in their proas. Every man goes 
 armed ; and even the women are of so warlike a disposition, that if they 
 are aflionted, they seek their revenge by the dagger or javelin. A Dutch- 
 man having ofiended one of these ladies, she attacked him with a javelin, 
 and would soon have despatched him, had she not been withheld by force. 
 The inhabitants profess the Mahometan religion,, in the rites of which they 
 are extremely superstitious. The people of fashion wear a cotton turban 
 ©n tiie head, and a covering of linen froin the waist downward : but the corn- 
 man people go naked, and are constaritly ehewmg the herbs called betle 
 and areka. In the night of the 4th of January, four Borneans came la 
 the ship, designing to cut the cables that she might drive on shore, but 
 the Dutch, discovering the design, fired at them, whereupon they made 
 their escape, leaving their proa behind, which the other seized, arvd being 
 weary of Borneo and its inhabitants, sailed for Bantam. Oa the 16th 
 took a junk from Jor, on board of which was a skilful pilot, who conduct- 
 ed them through those dangerous seas, where otherwise they would pro- 
 bably have been lost ; for now they hid but one anchor left, the cable of 
 which was almost worn out,. an<l they were surrounded with a great 
 number of small islands and shoals. 
 
 On the 2&th they arrived at Jortan, on the Island of Java, where they 
 had news of Dutch ships being at Bantam, a city consisting of about a 
 thousand houses, built of timber. The king of this place commands a 
 considerable part of that end of the island. The people are said to be 
 Mahometans, but from the pagods still in uso among the common class^ 
 it appears that the superstitious practices af the Mussulmen are intermixed 
 with those of the Indian worsliip. Their chief-priest was one hundred 
 and twenty years of age, and had many wives, the milk of whose breasts 
 was all his food. SaiUng hence, they saw a Portuguese vessel, of six 
 hundred tons burthen, run aground on the shoals, the crew of which 
 said they were going to Amboyna to engross the trade af that place ; but 
 the admiral, suspecting she had put to sea to cruise against them, left the 
 crew to- perish in that dreadful situation. 
 
 They passed the straits of Sunda on the 5th of February, and leaving 
 Java on the north-east, steered for the Cape of Good Hope. On the 
 18ih had the sun vertical at noon, after which they were becalmed for 
 eleven days. On the 24th of April, at night, saw a light like fire about 
 four miles to the north-west, v/hich they had no idea of, as they were 
 iuil 20O miles from the cape. 
 
 On the 25th, at night, perceived another fire, and the nest morning 
 eliscovered land bearing north-east, but continuing their course, arrived 
 oil St. Helena on the 2Gth, where they refreshed themselves with good 
 fresh nieat, fish, and water. Leaving the island on the 30th, sailed 
 homeward, but, by the 22d of July, were extremely distressed, being at 
 short allowance of bread, and what they had was worm-eaten. 
 
 This distress increased daily till the 18th of August, when they met 
 three ships from Eiabden, which gave them bread and fresh meat, for 
 lice and pepper ; and on the 26th of the same month, at noon, they ai- 
 rived safely before the city of Ratterdam, having beeu very nearly three 
 years on the voyage. 
 
6? 
 
 CAt^f AIN WILLIAM DAMPIEU.— 1683-1705. 
 
 William DaKpier, descended df a reputable family in Somersetshire, 
 was born in the year 1653 ; but having the misforlune to lose both his 
 parents while very young, his relations neglected his education ; and his 
 disposition strongly inclining him to the sea, he was, at the age of seven- 
 teen, put apprentice to the master of a ship at Weymouth, in Dorsetshire, 
 with whom he made a voyage to France in the year 1669, and another to 
 New England in the year following. But in thfe second voyage, sufiering 
 so much from extreme cold, he lost much of that ardour for a maritime 
 life with which he had before been inspired ; so that on his return he 
 retired to his friends in the country, proposing not to go to sea any more. 
 Hearing, however, of an outward bound Erfst India ship which was soon 
 to sail, "he came to London, entered himself as a foremast man, and made 
 a voyage to Bantam, by which he acquired considerable experience ; and 
 returning to England in January, 1672, remained during the following 
 summer at the house of his brother in Somersetshire. 
 
 In 1673 he served under Sir Edward Spragge in two engagements 
 against the Dutch ; after which he went again into Somersetshire, where 
 he met with one Colonel Hellier, who, having a large estate in Jamaica, 
 persuaded Mr. Dampier to go there and take the management of it ; but 
 being soon weary of this employment, he engaged with Captain Hodsell 
 to cut logwood in the Bay of Campeachy. This business being attended 
 With profit, he continued it for a considerable period ; and during this 
 time, became acquainted with the bucaniers, with whom he afterward 
 engaged ; but of which connexion he was at length much ashamed. In 
 the Bay of Campeachy he formed some projects for advancing his fortune ; 
 which, however, made it necessary for him to return to England, where 
 having raised what money he was able, he embarked for Jamaica in the 
 beginning of the year 1679. He arrived about the end of April follow- 
 ing, with a full intention to have furnished himself vvith all materials for 
 carrying On the logwood trade ; but afterward altered his resolution, and 
 laid out the greater part of his fortune in the purchase of a small estate in 
 Dorsetshire. Soon after this he made an agreement \*ith one Mr. Hobby 
 to make a vOyage to the Moskito shore before he went to England. Soon 
 after setting out, th«y anchored ofl' Nigral Bay, at the west end of Jamai- 
 ca, where hnding the Captains Coxon, Sawkins, Sharp, and dthers, going 
 on a privateering ex})edition. Hobby's men all engriged with them, and 
 Dampier finding no one left with Hobby but himself, consented to go also. 
 Their first expedition was against Porto Bello, which having accomplished, 
 they came to a resolution of crossing the Isthmus of Darien, to pursue 
 their design in the South Seas. 
 
 On the fifth of April, 1680, they landed near Golden Island, being in 
 number upward of 300, and carrying with them all kinds of provisions, 
 and plenty of toys to gratify the Indians. Marching hence, in nine days 
 they came to Santa Maria, which they plundered; but finding very little 
 booty, after remaining three days, they embarked on board canoes and 
 other small vessels for the South Seas. On the 33d of April, being in 
 sight of Panama, they made an unsuccessful attempt upon Puebla Nova, 
 in which Captain Sawkins, who was commandef-in-chief, was killed. On 
 the Olh of June steered for the coast of Peru, and touching at the islands 
 of Gorgonia and Plata, came to Ylo, which they look in the month of 
 October. Arriving at Juan Fernandez nbout Christmas, they displaced 
 CajKain Sharp, who had commanded in cliief since the death of Sawkins^ 
 
58 Voyages round the world. 
 
 and nHade choice of Captain Watling in his room ; soon after which they 
 made a fruitless attempt upon Africa, a strong town on the coast of Peru, 
 whete Watling and tweniy-eight of his men being killed, the crew di- 
 vided themselves into two factions, some of whom were for restoring Cap-* 
 tain Sharp, and others for excluding him. But the former party prevailing, 
 Dampier with the latter, being forty-seven in number, determined upon 
 crossing the isthmus ; which bold and dangerous undertaking, notwith- 
 standing they had no regular commander, was accomplished in twenty- 
 three days. They set out on this expedition at three o'clock in the 
 afternoon on the 1st of May, carrying with them a kettle to dress their 
 provisions, twenty or thirty pounds of chocolate, some sugar, and a quantity 
 of flour. On the second day, these adventurers travelled only about five 
 miles, stopping at an Indian plantation, where they found only women, 
 one of whom gave them a kind of beer brewed from corn. In the eve- 
 ning the husbands of these women came home, and treated our traveilera 
 with fowls, yams, plantains, &c.< and one of them, who spoke a little 
 Spanish, agreed to guide them to an Indian, who, being master of that 
 language, could give full directions ; and for this service he was to be 
 rewarded with a hatchet. 
 
 On the next day, about noon, he introduced them to the Indian who 
 spoke Spanish, but he gave only ill-natured answers, and appeared to be 
 their enemy ; some of the party giving his wife a fine petticoat, she brought 
 him into a better humour, and he procured them a guide for two days-, 
 being unable to attend himself on account of a wound in his foot. He 
 informed them of a Spanish guardsbip that was sent out to destroy their 
 vessel, and as it rained very hard, would have had them stay in his hut 
 all night ; but they chose rather to abide the inclemency of the weather, 
 than remain so near enemies. 
 
 At length arriving at Sound's-key, after a variety of accidents, they 
 joined Captain Tristian, commander of a French privateer, with whom 
 they sailed to Springer's-key, uniting there with eight privateers more, the 
 whole fleet having on board near 600 men, with which force they flattered 
 themselves with the hope of doing great things against the Spaniairds. 
 But the commanders disagreeing, Dampier and his companions put them- 
 selves under the command of Captain Wright, with whom they continued 
 cruising along the Spanish coast as far as the Dutch settlcinentof Curaqoa ; 
 from this they sailed to Tortugas, and thence to the Caracca coast, where 
 they took three prizes, which were shared ; and resolving to separate, 
 Dampier, and about twenty others, took one of the barks and proceeded 
 for Virginia, where they arrived in July 1632. 
 
 At Virginia, Dampier associated himself with Captain Cooke, wit4 
 whom he had formerly been acquainted, and who now intended to sail 
 into the South Seas to cruise against the Spaniards. 
 
 The-y set sail from Aecomac on the 33J of August, 1683, steering 
 for the Cape de Verd islands ; but had not been many days at sea before 
 they were overtaken by a violent storm, which continuing for a week, 
 scarcely left any hope of outliving it. At length they made the Island 
 of Salt, so called from the quantities of congealed salt which is found 
 there, and the number of salt ponds with which it abounds. 
 
 The soil of this island, situated in sixteen degrees north latitude, is 
 extremely barren, producing only a few mean shrubs near the" sea-side, 
 which serve to feed a number of poor goats. There are some wild fowl 
 on the island, the chief of which is the flamingo, a reddish bird, somewhat 
 like the heron, which frequents the marshes, where it is not easy to get 
 near enough to slioot them. They build their nests of mud; scraped 
 
WILLIAM DAMPIER. 59 
 
 together into little hillocks, tapering on the top, which rise nearly two 
 feet above the surface of the water. 
 
 At the top of the hillock they leave their eggs, of which no more than 
 two are laid, and cover them with their tails, their legs being at the same 
 time in the water ; a position which nature has rendered easy to this 
 bird, as otherwise the weight of their bodies would break the eggs, or 
 smother the young, which cannot fly till full grown, but run with such 
 swiftness that it is very difficult to take them. Their tongues are es- 
 teemed great dainties ; but the rest of the body is lean and black, though 
 not of an ill taste. 
 
 All the inhabitants of this island amounted to no more than six ; the 
 chief of whom, making a most ragged and deplorable figure, presented 
 them with thtee or four lean goats ; in return for which, Captain Cooke 
 gave him a coat, and bought a quantity of salt for some other old clothes. 
 The traffic being over, he beggtd a little powder and shot, and departed 
 well satisfied ; but one of the others, unknown to the chief, pretended 
 to sell a piece of nmbergris to a sailor, which proved to be nothing but a 
 preparation of goats' eiccrement. 
 
 Sailing hence, they steered to St. Nicholas, another of the Cape de 
 Verd islands, at the distance of twenty-two leagues to the south-west, 
 and anchored on the south-east side of it. 
 
 They remained here about five or six days, digging wells for fresh 
 water, and scrubbing the ship's bottom, and then stood over to the Island 
 of Mayo, another of the Cape de Verds, where they proposed to have 
 purchased some goats and cows ; but a Captain Bond having some time 
 before seized the governor and some other gentlemen, and refusing a 
 ransom which was offered, carried them off; the inhabitants on this ac- 
 count would not permit any of Captian Cooke's men to land. The Island 
 of Mayo abounds in goats and other horned cattle, and small turtle are 
 found here in May, June, July, and August. 
 
 Captain Cooke steered from the Cape de Verd islands directly for 
 the straits of Magellan : but the wind blowing hard at south when they 
 were in ten degrees north latitude, they stood over for the coast of Gui- 
 nea, and in a few days anchored at the mouth of the River Sherborough, 
 southward of Sierta Leona. Not far from the shore they saw a pretty 
 large village, inhabited by negroes, the houses of which were all low, 
 except one in the middle, where they were entertained with palm wine ; 
 near this place was an English factory, which carried on a considerable 
 trade in a red wood u«ed by the dyers, called camwood. These people 
 behaved with great civility, and supplied them with rice, fowls, honey, 
 and sugar canes. They continued their voyage for the straits of Magel- 
 lan about the middle of November, but were no sooner out at sea than 
 they m-et with violent gusts of wind, interchanged with calms, so that 
 they proceeded very slowly. Having touch"ed at the three islands of 
 Sebald de Weert, where they found nothing but a few bushes, and some 
 small red lobsters about the size of a man's finger, they came within 
 sight of the straits of lieMaire on the ist of February, which they found 
 mountainous on each side, and very narrow. They encountered a violent 
 storm at west-south-west on the 14th, which held till the 3d of March ; 
 on the 19lh discovered a sail, which they supposed to be a Spanish mer- 
 chantman, bound from Baldivia for Lima; but it proved to be an English 
 ship, commanded by Captain Eaton, bound from London for the South 
 Seas, with whom they kept company quite through the straits, and were 
 supplied by them with water, which they stood in need of, in retv?*) <br 
 bread and beef which Captain Eaton v/anted. 
 
60 VOYAGES ROVND THE WOKLP. 
 
 • On the 24lh anchored in a bay on the south side of the Tslancf of 
 Juan Fernandez, within two cables' length of the shore. As soon as 
 fully secured, they sent a boat with a Mosquito and two or three sailors 
 to the shore in search of a Mosquito Indian, whom Captain Watling had 
 left there three years before, having at that time concealed himself in 
 the woods from the search of the Spaniards. He was soon found, for 
 having the day before discovered an English sail, he had killed three 
 goats to entertain the crew, running to the shore to meet them. . As 
 «oon as he saw the other Indian he ran toward him, and having thrown 
 himself with his face to the ground, embraced him with all the marks 
 of tenderness, and then saluted his old friends the sailors, who he thought 
 were come on purpose to bring him ofi" the island. 
 
 Some Spaniards who had heard of his being there, had often searched 
 for him in vain, as he always took care to hide himself from them. This 
 man was called Will, and the other Robert, for though the Mosquito In- 
 dians had no names by which they distinguish themselves, they take it 
 as a favour if the Europeans will bestow one on them. 
 
 Will had built himself a hut abo^e half a mile f?om the sea-side, 
 which he had lined with goats' skin, a piece of which he wore round him 
 instead of his clothes, which had been worn out for some time ; he 
 also made his bed of the same materials. When he was left on shore 
 he had with bim a knife, a gun, and a little powder and shot. 
 
 When his ammunition was expended, he made a saw of his knife by 
 notching it, with which he sawed the barrel of the gun into small pieces j 
 then kindling a fire with his flint, worked the iron into a lance, fishing- 
 hooks, and harpoons. These contrivances were the result of necessity, 
 founded upon what he remembered of the workmanship of the English 
 smiths ; and indeed all the Mosquito Indians make their instruments with- 
 out forge or anvil. With the help of these instruments, this poor fellow 
 had subsisted upward of three years upon goats and such fish as he 
 could catch. 
 
 The voyagers sailed from the Island of Juan Fernandez, after a stay 
 of fourteen days, on the 8ih of April, 1684, in company with Captain 
 Eaton, for the South Seas ; steering toward the line off the high land 
 of Peru and Chili, at the distance of fifteen or sixteen leagues from the 
 shore, lest the Spaniards should discover them. Captain Eaton took a 
 prize on the 3d of May, bound from Guaquil to Lima, laden with timber } 
 after which, steering within five leagues of the continent, they arrived 
 at the islands of Lobos de la Mar, which abound in penguins, boobies, 
 and other fowls. These islands are each about a mile round, and to the 
 west of one of them is a safe harbour, where Captain Cooke having 
 scrubbed the ships, and examined the men who were on board the prize, 
 learned that the Spaniards, having intelligence of their being in those 
 seas, would not trust their vessels to sea without a sufificient guard, and 
 tlierefore proposed to his men to make a descent upon Truxillo, a popu- 
 lous town six miles from the port of Guanehagno. To this the crew 
 unanimously agreed ; but changed their resolution on being acquainted 
 that tlie people of Truxillo were erecting a fort near the harbour of 
 Guanehagno. This information they received from the crews of three 
 Spanish vessels, which they had taken, and which were bound to Panama 
 with flour. 
 
 They now resolved to bear away for the Gallapagos, a number of un- 
 fnhabited islands, lying under and near the line, on both sides of it. On 
 the evening of the 3 1st they anchored in sixteen fathom water, on the 
 east s'de of one of the easternmost. 
 
WlLLAIM DAMPIER. 61 
 
 Some of these islands are seven or eight leagues long, and three or 
 four broad ; they are mostly rocky and barren, having no grass except 
 just on the sea-shore ; but they have tolerable good water in the cavities 
 of the rocks. 
 
 When they had remained twelve days, one of the Indian prisoners, 
 born at Rio Leja, giving them an advantageous account of the riches of 
 that place, and promising to conduct them thither, they set sail on the 
 12th of June, but, by the beginning of July, light winds and fair weather 
 brought them within view of Cape Blanco, in the Mexican Sea, Two or 
 three leagues off Cape Blanco, Captain Cooke, who had been ill ever 
 since he left Juan Fernandez, died ; and they unanimously chose Mr. 
 Edward Davis, the company's quarter-master, captain in his room. 
 
 As they came to an anchor in about four hours after Captain Cooke's 
 death, near the mouth of a rivulet, the body was ordered on shore, to be 
 buried, under a guard of twelve men ; but while they were employed in 
 digging his grave, three Spanish Indians came up ; whom the sailors 
 conversed with for a time, and ihen suddenly seized ; but one of them 
 found means to make his escape. The two others being carried on board, 
 and examined by Captain Eaton, were found to be spies from Nicoya, a 
 small mulatto rown, about fourteen leagues to the eastward of the cape, 
 the inhabitants of which lived by tilling their ground and feeding their 
 cattle on the plains, of which they had great numbers. 
 
 As the men had tasted no fresh meat since leaving the Gallapagos, 
 twenty-four persons, among whom was Dampier, with a Spanish Indian 
 for a pilot, were despatched in two boats to bring ofT some cows and 
 bulls from a farm at about a league distance from the ship. Hauling up 
 the boat on dry land, the guide conducted them to the pen, which was 
 situated in a large savannah, where there were a great number of horned 
 cattle, which appeared very fat. 
 
 Being weary, and night coming on, some were for resting till morning, 
 and then killing what they wanted, while others were for proceeding to 
 business immediately. Twelve of them, among whom was Dampier, 
 returned on board the ship, while the others chose to remain till the next 
 morning ; but they had reason to repent of this rashness, for at break 
 of day, when preparing to drive away as many cattle as they wanted, 
 they were beset by forty or fifty Spaniards, who had concealed themselves 
 among the bushes, and discharged several shot at them. They retired 
 in as regular a manner as possible to their boat, which, to their great 
 confusion, now appeared in flames ; the Spaniards keeping at a distance, 
 and mocking their distress. 
 
 Wading to a rock a little way into the water, where the Spaniards 
 could not approach, they remained several hoars in extreme distress, in 
 danger of being swallowed by the sea, which flowed in very fast. In 
 the meantime, those on board the ship, seeing nothing of the absentees 
 by four o'clock in the afternoon, sent a canoe with ten men in search of 
 th^m, by whom they were found up to the middle in water, and in such 
 a situation, as the sea continued to flow, that they must have been drown- 
 ed if the canoe had come one hour later. 
 
 At this place they seized three good canoes, and having provided them* 
 aelves with a quantity of lance wood, which is straight and heavy, to 
 make looms for oars and scouring rods for guns, and taken in what wa- 
 ter they wanted, they sailed on the 20th of July for Ilio Leja, which may 
 be discerned at sea at the distance of twenty leagues, on account of a 
 remarkable burning mountain, by which it is distinguished. They intend- 
 
 6 
 
63 
 
 VOYAGES ROUND THE YTORtl). 
 
 ed to have landed here, but having rowed in their canoes, and taken a 
 distant view of the town, they found, by some commotions on shore, they 
 were discovered, and therefore returned on board. 
 
 It was now determined, in a conference between the captains, Davis 
 and Eaton, to steer for the Gulf of Amapalla ; which being entered by 
 the former with two canoes, in order to get a prisoner and obtain intel- 
 hgence, he came the fir^t night lo Mangera, In the morning, observing 
 several canoes hauled up in a bay, he landed there, and struck into a 
 path which led to the town; but all the inhabitants fled to the woods, 
 except an old priest and two Indian boys. These being made prisoners 
 by Captain Davis, were brought to the sea-side, and compelled to con- 
 duct him to the Island of Amapalla ; being landed, he proceeded to a 
 town on the lop of a hill, the inhabitants of which would have fled into 
 the woods, but were prevented by the secretary to the chief magistrate, 
 who, though an Indian, could read and write the Spanish language, but 
 was an enemy to the Spaniards. 
 
 This man having persuaded his countrynrien that Captain Davis and 
 his people were friends, who desired their assistance against their com- 
 mon enemy, they bid them welcome ; whereupon the captain advanced 
 at the head of his men toward the Indians, who came forward, led by 
 the priest, and received them in a very friendly manner ; after which they 
 proceeded toward the church to confer together. 
 
 Davis intended, as soon as he had got into the church, to prevail on the 
 Indians to lend him their assistance against the Spaniards ; and all things 
 seemed in a fair way to succeed, when, just as they were entering tlie 
 church, one of his men, who thought an Indian before him went on too 
 slowly, pushed him forward, upon which the poor fellow, being frightened, 
 ran hastily away, and all the others following him, the captain and the 
 priest were left in the church by themselves. Not knowing what caused 
 the confusion, the former ordered the men to fire upon the fugitives ; and 
 his friend, the secretary, being killed at one of the first shots, his cor- 
 respondence with these people was entirely at an end. 
 
 The ships coming to an anchor near the Isle of Amapalla the same 
 afternoon, Captain Davis and his men went on board, taking the friar 
 with them ; who told them, that as the secretary was dead, the only 
 thing they could do, would be to send for the cacique ; which being done, 
 he came on board, attended by six of of his principal people, and being 
 received in a very friendly manner, they remained on board as long as 
 the ships lay in the gulf, directing them where to go for wood, and water, 
 and cattle, and readily affording all the assistance in their power ; for 
 which the captain rewarded them with some trifling presents, with which 
 they departed highly satisfied. 
 
 Sending the priest on shore. Captain Davis sailed out of the Gulf of 
 Amapalla on the 3d of September, 1684, leaving the cacique and his at- 
 tendants in possession of one of the prizes, which was half full of flour. 
 
 Captain Eaton had parted company the preceding day, but though in 
 Jess than three weeks he oflTered to join Captain Davis again off the 
 Island of Plata, yet Davis's men refused to share with Eaton's in such 
 prizes as might fall into their hands. 
 
 The Island of Plata is pretty high, and surrounded with rocky cliffs, e.v- 
 cept in one place, where a torrent of fresh water pours down from the rocks. 
 It produces grass and three or four small kinds of trees, which Dampier 
 did not know the name of. It abounds with the birds called boobies, and 
 the maa-of-war bird ; and near the shore are plenty of small turtle. It is 
 
Vv'ILLUM f)AMPIEii. 63 
 
 iaid to have been named La Plata., because hero the rich prize of plate, 
 called the Cacafuego, was divided by Sir Francis Drake among his men. 
 
 They stayed here only one day, and then steered for Point St. Helena^ 
 which is a high fiat land, bearing south from La Plata, in twenty-ihieo 
 degrees fifteen minutes south latitude. 
 
 On the north side is a large bay, on the shore of which stands a poor 
 villagf> which is also called St. Helena, inhabited by Indians, who have 
 neither grain, plants, nor fruit, but water melons, which arc very large 
 and sweet ; they have neither spring nor river of any kind near them, 
 and are obliged to fetch their fresh water fro.m a river at four leagues 
 distance. They live chiefly upon fish, except some maize procured in 
 exchange for a bituminous substance, which the Spaniards call algatrane, 
 which issue out of the earth above high-water mark, and which, when 
 boiled, answers all the purposes of pitch. The captain landed some men 
 here, who seized a small bark, which they preserved from being burnt, 
 the Indians having set it on fire, as they afSrmed, by command of the 
 viceroy ; they also took a few prisoners, from whom it appeared the viceroy 
 had commanded all seamen to burn their vessels, and take to their boats, 
 if they should happen to fall in the way of the English bucaniers. 
 
 The men coming back the same evening, they sailed again for the 
 Island of Plata, and anchored on the 2Gth of September, immediately 
 sending some of the men to Manta, an Indian village three leagues west 
 of Cape Lorenzo. The inhabitants, perceiving their approach, fled fronfi 
 the town, except two decrepid old women, who declared the viceroy, 
 having heard that a number of men had marched over-land through Darien 
 to the South Seas, had ordered the ships to be burnt, the goats on the 
 Island of Plata to be destroyed, and no provisions kept there but what 
 was wanted for immediate uso. 
 
 As the alarm which had been spread through the country prevented 
 their finding any booty, ^hcy returnfed on board, and the next day sailed 
 back to the Island of Plata, where having waited till the 2d of October, 
 and being undetermined what course to take, they were then joined by 
 Captain Swan, in the Cygnet. This ship was from London, on a tra- 
 ding voyage, but having met with many disappointments, his men had 
 forced him to take on board a party of bucaniers, who had travelled over 
 the Isthmus of Darien, under the command of Captain Peter Harris, who, 
 having a small bark, and being now three in company, they earnestly 
 wished to meet with Captain Eaton, as they hoped, with such a force, to 
 be able to uiidertake an expedition of some consequence. The hark was 
 therefore immediately sent in search of him, with a letter of invitation 
 to share thoir fortune ; but she did not meet him, he having lately quitted 
 those seas, as it was imagined, for the East Indies ; a scheme which he 
 had for a long tinic proposed to execute. 
 
 The bark, however, which had b6en three days cruising, took a prize 
 of 400 tons, laden with timber, bound from Guaquil to Lima ; the master 
 of which said the viceroy of Peru was fittir.g out ten frigates to drive 
 them out of those seas. This news, though disagreeable, did not discou- 
 rage them from making a descent upon Payta, where, on the 3d of Novem- 
 ber, they landed 110 men, and havhig seized upon the town, kept posses- 
 sion of it for several daysy in hopes the inhabitants would have redeemed 
 it ; but that not being done, they set it on fire, and retired to the ships. 
 
 The captains had offered to spare the town for 300 sacks of flour, 3,000 
 pounds of sugar, 35 jars of wine, and 1,000 jnrs of water; but these 
 moderate conditions were slighted. 
 
64 Voyages round the wgrl6. 
 
 They left the Bay of Payta on the 10th of November, at night, and 
 arrived at Lobos de la Mar on the 10th, where the Mosquito men struck 
 a great number of turtle. Here they came to a resolution of attacking 
 Guaquil, which is situated in a bay of the same name, between Cape 
 Blanco on the south and Point Chandy on the north ; and at the bottom 
 of the bay lies a small island, shaped like a dead man in a shroud, called 
 St. Clara. 
 
 Having heretofore had a design against Guaquil, they left the ships 
 at Cape Blanco, and steered with a bark and some canoes to the Isle of 
 St. Clara, and thence in two canoes to Point Arena, where they the next 
 day took some of the fishermen of Puna, and afterward seized the town. 
 On the ebb they look a bark coming from Guaquil, laden wiih Quito 
 cloth, from the master of which they learned there were three barks full 
 of negroes coming with the next tide. 
 
 Leaving five men on board the prize, they embarked all the rest in 
 canoes, and proceeded toward Guaquil, but the canoes being heavily 
 laden, it was break of day before they got within two leagues of the town ; 
 whereupon they hid themselves all day in a neighbouring creek, and sent 
 one of the canoes back to the bark, with orders not to fire at anything 
 till next day. Before they arrived with these directions, two barks filled 
 with negroes coming out of the harbour with the evening tide, and falling 
 down with the ebb toward Puna, coming within sight of the English, they 
 fired three guns at them ; which put these in the canoes in great conster- 
 nation, not doubting but the people of the town had taken the alarm. 
 Some of the company were now for advancing to the town immediately, 
 and others for returning to ihe ships ; but as the ebb tide prevented their 
 going upward, Captain Davis, with fifty of his men, determined to march 
 by land to the place ; the rest, judging it impossible to succeed, conti* 
 nued in the creek to wait the event. 
 
 After an absence of four hours. Captain Davis and his men, being 
 almost choked among the mangrove woods, which grew in the marshes, 
 and finding it impossible to go forward, returned. It was then determined 
 to row up within sight of the town, and, if they found themselves dis- 
 covered, to retire without attempting to land ; therefore, rowing through 
 the north-east channel, they got within view of the town during the night ; 
 when, on a sudden, at the discharge of a musket, they perceived the 
 whole place to be full of lights, and as they had seen but one before, they 
 certainly concluded that they were discovered ; but several of them 
 observing that the Spaniards used lights on the evenings preceding their 
 festivals, and that the ne.'ct was a holyday, they upbraided Captain Swan 
 and his men with cowardice. 
 
 On this, all the party landed at a place about two miles from the townj 
 which being over-run with woods, they were forced to wait for day-light ; 
 when, having an Indian guide, whom they had taken three days beforej 
 a cord was tied to him, and he was led by one of Captain Davis's men, 
 who seemed one of the most>forward in the enterprise ; but now, perhaps, 
 beginning to repent his rashness, cut the rope, and let the Indian escape 
 into the, town. When he thought the fellow was at a proper dista:ice, 
 he cried out that somebody had cut the rope ; when the company, having 
 searched in vain for the fugitive, determined to abandon the enterprise ; 
 however, they landed on the opposite shore, and killed a cow, which was 
 dressed and ate, undisturbed by the inhabitants. 
 
 On the 9th of December returning to Puna, on their way took the two 
 barks above-mentioned, and finding a thousand negroes on board, kept 
 
WILLIAM DAMPIER. 65 
 
 about sixty, and left the rest, with the barks, behind, and soon saw ihsm 
 make the shore. Mr. Dampier seems of opinion that this was a very 
 impohtic proceeding, and that if they had taken these people directly 
 over the Isthmus of Darien, they might have been able to have worked 
 the gold mines of St. Maria ; an undertaking which would have been so 
 well supported by the English and French privateers from all parts of 
 the West Indies, that they might have been able to have stood their ground 
 against all the power of Spain in that part of the world ; and in time 
 have been strong enough to have extended their conquests to the wealthy 
 gold mines of the province of Quito, 
 
 Settiiig sail on the 13th, in three days arrived at La Plata, on their 
 way to which they met the bark which had been sent in search of Cap- 
 .ain Eaton, of whom they had got no intelligence. Here they divided 
 the cloth which they had taken on board the bark ; and having supplied 
 themselves with fresh water, resolved to steer for Lavelia, a town m the 
 Bay of Panama. 
 
 Accordingly they sailed on the 23d, and the next morning passed in 
 sight of Cape Passao, a high round point, covered with fruit trees on 
 the land side, but bare taward the sea. Between this and Cape Fran- 
 cisco are abundance of small points, full of various kinds of trees, which 
 enclose so many sandy creeks. 
 
 As iheir design was to search for canoes in some river unfrequented 
 by the Spaniards, they endeavoured to make the Island of St. Jago, on 
 account of its vicinity to the Isle of Gallo, where there was safe anchor- 
 age for the ships, and gold in great plenty. 
 
 The River of St. Jago is large and navigable ; about seven leagues 
 from the sea it divides into two branches, surrounding a large island, the 
 mould of which is of a deep black, producing a number of tall trees, 
 among which the largest are the cabbage tree, and those of red and 
 white cotton. 
 
 The cabbage is the tallest, and Mr. Dampier measured one that was 
 120 feet long. It has no branches but near the top, where they sprout 
 out to the length of twelve or fourteen feet, covered with small long 
 leaves, in such regular order, that at a distance they appear but as one 
 leaf. In the middle of these branches grows the fruit, which is as big as 
 a man's leg, about a foot long, as white as milk, and very sweet, whether 
 eaten raw or boiled. As soon as the head is gone the tree dies ; for 
 which reason they cut it down to gather the fruit. Between the cab- 
 bage and the branches many small twigs sprout forth, about two feet 
 long, at the end of which grow hard round berries, about the size of a 
 cherry, which, falling once a year, afford e5cellen^food for the hogs. The 
 body of the tree is full of round rings from top to bottom, about half a 
 foot asunder ; the bark is thin and brittle, the wood black and hard, and 
 there is a white pith in the middle of the tree. The pleasing verdure of 
 these trees is a great ornament to the grove, and they are much used by 
 the planters of Jamaica. 
 
 The continual rains which fall in this part of Peru, added to the natu- 
 ral ferocity of the inhabitants, which it appears impossible to tame, have 
 prevented the Spaniards from making any considerable discoveries on this 
 coast ; and the people bear so mortal a hatred to the Spaniards, and are 
 so jealous of all other Europeans, that whoever attempts to row up the 
 river must lie exposed to their ambuscades on each side ; and th«y are 
 such excellent marksmen that their arrows seldom miss their aim. 
 
 Notwithstanding these dangers, Dampier and some others ventured 
 6* 
 
66 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to row six leagues up the river, till they came to two huts, ^vhere they 
 found a hog, which appeared to be of the European kind, and some fowls 
 and plantains, which they dressed and fed very heartily upon ; while tho 
 poor Indians who owned them, seeing their approach, Look their wives 
 and children into canoes, and paddled away with such expedition, that 
 there was no possibility of following them. 
 
 On the opposite side they saw many huts, which, like these, were covered 
 with Palmetto leaves, but the stream being very rapid, they were afraid 
 to venture farther up ; so that after a day's exicursion they returned to 
 their ships, which were stationed off Gallo, a small uninhabited island, 
 about three leagues from the mouth of the River Tomaco, and four and a 
 half from an Indian village of the same name. At twelve o'clock on the 
 following night they made a descent, and going into one of the houses, 
 seized upon all the inhabitants, among whom was Don Diego de Pinas, 
 a Spanish knight, who was come thither to load timber ; but finding 
 nothing in the vessel that brought him but thirteen jars of wine, they 
 took them out, and turned the vessel adrift. 
 
 While proceeding in canoes from Tomaco toward Gallo, on the 1st 
 of January, 1685, they seized a Spanish packet-boat going from Panama 
 to Lima, by which they learned that the Armada was arrived from Spain 
 at Porto Bello, where it waited for the Plate fleet from Lima : on this 
 they changed their resolution of going to Lavelia, resolving to rendezvous 
 among the King's or Pearl islands, by which the ships, bound from Lima 
 to Panama, must necessarily pass. 
 
 The Pearl islands are numerous, low, and v/oody ; seven leagues from 
 the continent, and twelve from Panama. Dampier says, that though in 
 the maps they are called Pearl islands, he could not find one pearl oyster 
 near them. Tho most northern island is called Pachea or Pacheque, 
 and St. Paul's is the most southernly : all the rest, though large, having no 
 names. The negroes who belong to the inhabitants of Panama have 
 planted some of these islands with plantains, bananas, and rice. The 
 channel between them and the continent is seven or eight leagues broad, 
 of a moderate depth, and has good anchoring all along it ; and though the 
 islands lie close together, there are good chanels between them, proper 
 for boats. 
 
 Having sent their barks on a cruise toward Panama, they returned on 
 the fourth day with a prize, laden with maize, salted beef, and fowls. 
 They found abundance of oysters in the harbour, together with muscles, 
 limpets, and clams, which last are a kind of oysters that cling so close 
 to the rocks that, to be eaten, they must be opened on the spot. They 
 also found turtle-doves and pigeons here. 
 
 The ships being well careened by the 14th of February, they took in 
 wood and water, and .<?ailed out among the islands, where, on the IGth, 
 they anchored within a league of the Island of Pacheque, and on the ISth 
 steered, with a north-east wind, directly toward Panama, anchoring oppo- 
 site Old Panama, once a place of considerable consequence, but the 
 greatest part being laid in ashes by Sir Henry Morgan in 1673, it was 
 never rebuilt. 
 
 New Pi'.nama, which stands on the river -side, four leagues from the old 
 town, is a handsome city, watered by several rivers, some of which have 
 gold in them, and run into the bay. The houses are chiefly of brick ; 
 and with the churches, monasteries, and president's house, make the best 
 appearance of any buildings he saw in that coanliy. This place has a 
 view of many pleasant islands, and from the variety of hills, valleys, groves, 
 
WILLIAM DAMPIER. 67 
 
 and plains around it, affords a most enchanting prospect from the sea. 
 It is encompassed by a high stone wall, on which a number of guns are 
 mounted, which formerly were placed only on the land side, but now are 
 also planted toward the ocean. 
 
 The city has a vast trade, being the staple for all goods to and from 
 all parts of Peru and Chili ; besides that, every three years, when thn 
 Spanish ships go to Porto Bello, the Plate fleet comes hither with the 
 king's plate, as vyell as what belongs to the merchants, whence it is car- 
 ried by mules to Porto Bello ; and at that time everything seemed ex- 
 cessively dear. 
 
 On the 20th of March they anchored about a league from the Perico 
 islands, and on the 21st another prize fell into their hands, laden with 
 hogs, beef, fowls, and salt, from Lavelia. 
 
 Three days after taking this vessel, they steered for Tobago, an island 
 in the Bay of Panama, three miles long and one broad, the soil of which 
 produces plenty of plantains and bananas, together with cocoa and mam- 
 mee trees; which last are sixty or seventy feet high, without knots or 
 boughs, except at the top, where some small branches sprout out, thick, 
 and close together ; the fruit is of the bigness of a large quince ; round, 
 and covered with a gray rind, which, before it is ripe, is brittle ; but 
 when come to maturity, turns yellow, and will peel with ease. The ripe 
 fruit has an agreeable smell and taste, and has two rough stones in the 
 middle, each of which is about the size of a large almond. The south- 
 west side of this island is covered with trees and fire-wood, and on the 
 north side there is a fine fresh water spring, which falls into the sea. 
 Here was formerly a handsome church, but it has been destroyed by the 
 bucaniers ; and to the north-west lies a small town called Tobagilla, near 
 which they came to an anchor on the 25th, and had like to have been 
 destroyed by a pretended trader, who, under a show of trading privately 
 with them, instead of bringing his bark in the night laden with merchan- 
 dise, advanced toward them in a fire-ship. Some of the people suspect- 
 ing his design, fired upon the vessel, whereupon those who attended her 
 took to their boats, and the English cutting their cables to avoid her, she 
 blew up without doing any damage ; at the same time a small float which 
 was in sight, guided by one man, and was supposed to be a compound of 
 combustibles designed to lay hold of their rudder, also disappeared., 
 
 These engines are said to have been contrived by Captain Bond, who 
 formerly deserted to the Spaniards, for without his assistance they could 
 not have fitted out a fire-ship ; the ignorance of the Spaniards in the 
 South Seas, in maritime affairs, being altogether astonishing ; and it is 
 common for the vessels there to be manned with Indians, having only 
 one Spaniard on board, who is the commander. 
 
 On the morning of the 23th they were joined by 200 English and 
 80 French bucaniers, who came from the North Sea over the Isthmus 
 of Darien. The English were taken on board by Captains Davis and 
 Swan, and the rest put into the prize they had taken, loaded with flour, 
 imder the command of a Frenchman called Captain Gronet, who offered 
 Davis and Swan each a commission from the governor of Petit Guave. 
 Swan having a commission from the Duke of York refused, but Davis 
 accepted it. 
 
 With this reinforcement, they set sail on the 2d of March, toward the 
 Gulf of St. Michael, in search of Captain To.vnley, who was said to be 
 crossing the isthmus with 180 men, and came up with him next day 
 among the Pearl islands. Townley had t;\ken two barks, one laden with 
 
68 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 sugar and the other flour, and some jars of wine and brandy, which lie 
 divided among the men belonging to Davis and Swan, as he wanted the 
 jars to fill with water. In search of this, as it was the dry season, they 
 steered to Point Garachina, where the natives gave refreshments ; l)ut 
 meeting v-'ith no water they stood for Port Pines, so called from the 
 great number of pines which grow on the shore But the sea ran so 
 high that the boats could not land, on which they steered for Tobago, 
 and in their course fell in with four Indians and a mulatto in a canoe, 
 who, having been on board the fire-ship that was sent to burn Captain 
 Davis's vessel, were immediately hanged. 
 
 While employed in taking in v^'ood and water at the Island of Perico, 
 at v/hich {ilace they cast anchor on the 3d of April, they sent four canoes 
 to the continent to gpt sugar in the adjacent sugar-works, to make up 
 their cocoa into chocolate, and to get some copper kettles, which, as 
 their numbers were considerably increased, were much wanted for the 
 boiling of provisions. 
 
 In the interim Captain Davis sent his bark to the Island of Oroque, 
 in the Bay of Panama, which is inhabited by a few negroes, who breed' 
 fowls and hogs ; here they found a messenger, who was despatched to 
 Panama with an account that the Lima fleet had sailed. Most of the 
 letters had been thrown into the sea, but from the rest they learned the 
 fl^et was coming under a convoy, consisting of all such ships as they had 
 been able to get together from Peru. Being informed by the pilot that 
 the king's ships always came that way, they sailed back to the Pearl 
 islands on the iOth, and on the 22d arrived at Chepelio, one of the ploa- 
 santest islands in the Bay of Panama, though but a mile in length, and 
 not quite so broad. 
 
 On the 24th the 250 men, who had been sent to this place, returned, 
 having taken it without opposition ; but found nothing worth mentioning. 
 
 Captain Harris joining on the 25th, they sailed the next day for Tobago, 
 where they arrived on the 28th, and having some thoughts of making an 
 attempt upon Panama, examined some prisoners as to its strength. But 
 though now mustering 1000 men, they wer^ diverted from the attempt 
 on being informed that the inhabitants had been greatly reinforced from 
 Porto 13ello, and that the height of the walls and the strength of the 
 place were very considerable. 
 
 They sailed again for the Pearl islands on the 4th of May, and cruised 
 till the 22d, when they sent three canoes to the Island of Chepelio to take 
 some prisoners ; who returned on the 25th with three seamen of Panama, 
 who informed them that a strict order had been issued there not to fetch 
 any plantains from the adjacent islands, which had occasioned a great scar- 
 city ; and that the arrival of the fleet from I^ima was every day expected. 
 
 On the south side of the Island of Pacheque are two or three small 
 islands, between which the fleet lay at anchor, and then consisted of ten 
 sail, two of which only were men-of-war. Captain Davis's ship carried 
 thirty-nine guns and 156 men ; Captain Swan's, sixteen guns and 140 
 men. The rest were provided only with small arms, and they mustered 
 in all 960 men ; they had also one fire-ship. 
 
 About eleven o'clock the weather, which had been very bad, beginning 
 to clear up, they discovered the Spanish fleet at the distance of three 
 leagues ; and about three in the afternoon bore down right upon the 
 Spaniards, who kept close on a wind, to come up with them ; but night 
 coming on before they came to close quarters, they could only exchange a 
 few shot, one of which took effect, and Idlled a man in one of the privateers 
 
WILLIAM DAMPIER. C. 
 
 When it began to grow dark, the admiral put out a light at his top, a 
 a signal for the fleet co come to an anchor, which they took down agaii: 
 in about half an hour, but it soon appeared as before. The English, 
 supposing it to be in the admiral's top, and being to the windward, kept 
 under sail, but found themselves deceived in their expectations, by a 
 stratagem contrived by the Spaniards ; who, having put this second light 
 on the top-mast head of one of their barks, sent her to the leeward ; so 
 that in the morning the English found that the enemy had the weather- 
 gage of them, and coming up with a full sail, they were obliged to make 
 a running fight cf it all the next day, almost round the Bay of Panama ; 
 and in the end they anchored under the Isle of Pacheque. 
 
 Captain Townley being hard passed by the enemy, was forced to make 
 a bold run through the channel between Pacheque and three adjacent 
 islands. Captain Harris was forced from them during the fight ; and 
 Captain Gronet, with 308 men, in the flour prize, of ninety tons burthen, 
 kept at a distance while there was any appearance of danger ; for which 
 it was the next day agreed to dismiss him with his men, most of whom 
 where French ; and permitting him to keep the ship, he was ordered to 
 leave the company immediately. 
 
 Though the Spanish fleet consisted of fourteen sail, besides periagnas, 
 or boats of twelve or fourteen oars, yet the English had but one man 
 killed. The loss of the Spaniards is not known ; and it is thought that 
 if Gronet had continued firm, they might easily have made themselves 
 masters of the fleet and its treasure. 
 
 The whole fleet set sail from Pacheque on the 1st of June, for the 
 Isle of Quibo, in search of Captain Harris, whom they expected to meet 
 there, as it was the place of general rendezvous, and he was accordingly 
 there before their arrival. It was now immediately agreed that, as they 
 had been unsuccessful in their late attempt, they would try their fortune 
 by land, by attacking the city of Leon, on the coast of Mexico. 
 
 This town stands twenty miles up the country, in a plain ; the houses, 
 which have large gardens, are ouilt of stone, and covered with pantiles : 
 it has a cathedral and five churches, and from the pleasantness of its situ- 
 ation, some travellers have called it the Paradise of the West Indies. 
 Near it is a high volcano, which, at times, casts forth smoke and flames, 
 and may be seen from the sea : it has a good manufactory of hemp, is 
 rich in sugar, pasturage, and cattle ; but is a place of no great trade. 
 
 They began their march about eight o'clock in the morning, Captain 
 Townley, with 100 of the best men, leading the van : Captain Swan 
 followed him with 100 more ; and Captains Knight and Davis brought 
 up the rear with 170. 
 
 Captain Townley was attacked, on his entering the town, by a party of 
 200 Spanish horse and 500 foot ; but two or three of the principal officers 
 being dismounted, the horse fled, and the foot seeing them retire follow- 
 ed thei>" example, abandoning the city to the mercy of the enemy. In 
 about four hours all the English entered the town, except a few, who, 
 being tired, were left upon the road ; among these was an old gray- 
 headed fellow, of the name of Swan, who had served under Oliver Crom- 
 well in Ireland, and was eighty-four years of age. On his absolutely 
 refusing to take quarter, the Spaniards shot him dead ; but they took 
 several other prisoners, among whom was one Mr. Smith, who, having 
 lived in the Canaries, spoke the Spanish tongue fluently. Smith being 
 carried before the governor, and examined with regard tjo the strength of 
 the invaders, represented them to be 1500 men 1000 in the town and 
 
70 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 500 in canoes ; which well-timed piece of deceit had such an effect upon 
 his excellency, that though he was at the head of more than 1000 men, 
 he did not choose to attack the enemy, but sent a flag of truce the next 
 day to propose a ransom for the town. But the EngHsh demanding 
 provisions for 1000 men for four months, and 30,000 pieces of eight, he 
 did not choose to comply with the demand ; and therefore they fired the 
 city on the 1,4th of August, the next morning inarching toward their 
 canoes. 
 
 A gentleman, who had been taken prisoner, was delivered back in ex- 
 change for Mr. Smith, and a Spanish gentleman was released, on pro- 
 mising to deliver 150 oxen at Rio Leja, where they intended to make their 
 next attempt. 
 
 They rowed in their canoes toward Rio Leja on the 16th of August, 
 where their ships were by that time come to an anchor. This is a 
 beautiful place, seated a mile from the harbour, on the mouth of a river, 
 on a small plain, and has three churches, and an hospital with a handsome 
 garden to it ; but is situated in an unwholesome air, near some fens and 
 marshes, which occasion a noxious smell. 
 
 The creek that leads from Rio Leja has a broad entrance, but afterward 
 closes into a narrow, deep channel covered on both sides with cocoa 
 trees, A mile from the entrance of the creek it winds to the west, where 
 the Spaniards cast up an entrenchment, which was defended by 120 men, 
 and farther down had laid a boom of trees across the creek ; but as 
 soon as the English had fired two guns the Spaniards quilted their post, 
 and left the enemy to take the town, which they did without opposition. 
 They here found only empty houses, except five hundred sacks of flour, 
 some pitch, tar, cordage, and some sugar in the neighbourhood, together 
 with the hundred and fifty oxen which had been promised by the Spanish 
 gentleman whom they released at Leon. The bucaniers staid here a 
 week, and then set fire to the town, though Mr. Dampier declares himself 
 Ignorant by whose order it was done. 
 
 On the 25th of August, Davis and Swan parted, the former being de- 
 termined to try his fortune on the coast of Peru, and the latter proposing 
 to proceed farther to the west. 
 
 Captains Knight and Harris went with Davis, and our author on board 
 Captain Swan, who was joined by Captain Townley with his two barks. 
 
 About this time they all suffered very considerably by a malignant 
 fever, which carried off many of the men, and was supposed to be the 
 remains of a fever contracted at Rio Leja. 
 
 On the 27th, Davis sailed out of the harbour, Swan complimenting 
 him with fifteen guns, which he answered by eleven. 
 
 Swan and Townley sailed on the 3d of September, with 340 men, 
 steering westward, having bad weather all along the coast, together v/ith 
 thunder and lightning, which kept them at sea till the 14th, when they 
 discovered the volcano of Guatimala, a high forked hill, which, before 
 bad weather, generally emits smoke and flames. It derives its name from 
 the city of Guatimala, which stands at its foot, eight leagues from the 
 South Sea, and forty or fifty from the Gulf of Matique in the Bay of Hon- 
 duras, in the north seas. It is esteemed a rich city, the country round 
 abounding in several commodities, which are exported thence into Europe, 
 especially the four useful dyes, cochineal, Sylvester, annatta, and indigo. 
 The sea is full of drift wood and pumice stones, even at some leagues 
 distance from Gpatimala, which are supposed to be brought down from 
 the mountain by the frequent and violent rains. 
 
WILLIAM DAMPIER. 71 
 
 On the 24th, being in fourteen degrees and thirteen minutes north lati- 
 tude, Captain Townley went on shore, taking with him nine canoes and 106 
 men, proposing to inarch to a town called Teguantapeque, situated some- 
 where in the "neighbourhood, in hopes to have procured some provision 
 for the sick men, as great numbers of the crev/ were in a very weak 
 condition. Not being able to find the town. Captain Townley returned 
 on board the 2d of October ; but being determined to try his fortune 
 once more, he ran his canoes ashore in a sandy bay, where he landed 
 with the loss of one man and most of his powder spoiled by the canoea 
 oversetting ; and was no sooner on shore, than he was attacked by a part;; 
 of 200 Indians and Spaniards, whom, with some diHiculty, he repulsed. 
 
 Having again joined Captain Swan, they set sail with fair weather, and 
 the wind at east-north-east, keeping a westward course, and having run 
 about twenty leagues, they came to the Island of I'angola, where there 
 is a good anchorage, with plenty of wood and water. Sailing thence one 
 league farther, they came to the Port of Guatulco, one of the best in the 
 kingdom of Mexico. About a mile from the cast side of the harbour is 
 a small island ; but the west side is the safest for shipping, affording 
 shelter from the south-west winds, which are frequently violent, the 
 water dashing furiously under the bottom of a rock, which it has under- 
 mined, and which is perforated quite through, forming, even in the calm- 
 est season, a natural jet d'eau ; and affording a good mark to seamen 
 bound for this port. At the bottom of this harbour, which is a mile 
 broad, and three miles in depth, there is a fine brook of fresh water, near 
 which formerly stood a town sacked by Sir Francis Drake ; all that re- 
 mains of which, at present, is an old chapel standing in the midst of a 
 group of trees. 
 
 Captain Swan, being unwell, went on shore at this place with the sick 
 people and a surgeon, while Townley headed a party who marched to 
 the eastward in search of houses and inhabitants ; and at a league from 
 Guatulco came to a river called Capulita, which has a swift current, and 
 is very deep. Some of the men swimming across the stream, seized 
 two Indians, whom they apprehended were placed there as sentinels to 
 watch their proceedings, though these were unacquainted with the Spa- 
 nish tongue. They carried one on board the ship, and made use of the 
 other to conduct them to an Indian settlement, where they found plenty 
 of vinello, a perfume used in the West Indies, where it bears a high price, 
 to infuse into chocolate, to which it gives a delicate flavour. It is a pod 
 of four inches long, full of black seed, arising from a yellow flower, and 
 produced by a kind of vine that grows up the trees which are near it, 
 adhering to them like ivy. 
 
 They sent four canoes to the westward on the 10th of October, in 
 hopes of taking prisoners who had some knowledge of the country. The 
 canoes were ordered to wait at Port Angelo for the ships, which on the 
 12th left the harbour of Guatulco, v/here they had taken in wood and 
 water, and caught a considerable number of small turtle, which, as they 
 had eaten no meat for a considerable time, were a great refreshment. 
 Two of the canoes returned on the 22d, being separated from the rest, 
 and having attempted to land at a place where they saw many black cattle 
 feeding upon savannas ; but the sea running high, they were overturned ; 
 four g:ms were lost, the rest of the arms spoiled with the water, and one 
 man drowned. They had no news of the other two canoes till the 31st, 
 when Captain Townley, who lay near the shore, hearing thefiiring of guns, 
 manned one of his canoes, and stood in for the land." In the middle of 
 
72 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a salt water lake, at a distance within land, he saw the two canoes lying 
 upon their oars, and perceiving by their disposition that they were beset 
 on both sides, immediately put his men on shore, upon the approach of 
 whom, some Spaniards, who being sheltered by the rocks had fired upon 
 them, took to their heels, leaving the passage free to go out ; but they 
 must certainly have starved or fallen a prey to the cruelty of the enemy, 
 if Townley had not relieved them in this timely manner. 
 
 Having thus recovered their canoes, they sailed on the 2d of November, 
 and held a westward course, till they arrived at a large river, two leagues 
 from the rock of Algatross, on the banks of which the Spaniards had 
 raised a breast-work, which was defended by 200 men, notwithstanding 
 which the English landed and obliged them to fly, after they had dis- 
 charged twenty or thirty guns without effect. They now marched about 
 three leagues up the country, and having taken a mulatto prisoner, he 
 said that a ship, richly laden, was lately arrived at Lima from Acapulco ; 
 upon which Townley proposed cutting her out of the harbour, and not- 
 withstanding Captain Swan's remonstrances on the danger and difficulty 
 of the attempt, and his representing the necessity they were under of 
 supplying themselves with maize and other provisions, which abounded 
 in the place where they now were, he carried his point ; and the canoes 
 were accordingly manned for the expedition. They, however, were much 
 damaged, narrowly escaping being lost in a tornado, and were afterward 
 obliged to wait a whole day in Port Marquis, a league to the eastward 
 of Acapulco. Here having dried their clothes and arms, they rowed 
 softly, on the following night, into the harbour of Acapulco ; but on their 
 arrival, found the ship so well guarded, as to be obliged to abandon the 
 enterprise, and return in a very desponding condition. 
 
 Landing afterward to the north-west of Pataplan hill, they marched, to 
 the number of 170, a few miles up the country, to an Indian village, in 
 which there was no provisions, nor any inhabitants to be found but a poor 
 mulatto woman and four children, whom they carried aboard. The woman 
 declared that a number of mules, laden with flour and other goods, de- 
 signed for Acapulco, had stopped on the west of the village ; upon which 
 information they sailed ts a harbour called Chequetan, where, on the 9th, 
 they landed ninety-five men, who having the woman .for their guide, con- 
 ducted them through a pathless wood into a plain, near which, at a farm- 
 house, they found sixty mules laden with flour, cheese, chocolate, and 
 earthen- ware ; all of which were carried ofT except the earthen-ware. 
 They also discovered plenty of black cattle, upon which Captain Swan 
 went on shore and killed eighteen. 
 
 Quitting this river on the 21st of November, by the help of a land 
 wind from the north, continued their course, in hopes of discovering the 
 town of Cupan, supposed to be situated in about 18 degrees north latitude, 
 but they could neither find this place nor the city of Colina, which was 
 said to be very rich. They now rowed twenty leagues along shore, but 
 could find no place convenient for landing, nor the least sign of inhabi- 
 tants ; at length they saw a man on horseback, and having made the 
 shore with some difficulty, pursued him, but soon lost sight of the fugitive 
 in the woods, where they could find no track. 
 
 Disappointed and dejected, they returned to their ships on the 28th, 
 and next day 200 men were sent, in canoes in search of a town called 
 Sallagua. As they rowed along, saw two horsemen on shore, one of 
 whom drank to them out of a pocket-bottle in derision, in return for which 
 one of the canoes fired a shot, which killed the horse under him after 
 
WILLIAM DAMPIER. 73 
 
 which his companion rode off; two of the men stripping, swam on shore 
 to secure the dismounted man, but defending himself with a long knife, 
 while they were unarmed, could not succeed in the attempt. 
 
 On the 30th returned again to their ships, the sea running too high to 
 find a convenient place for landing ; but on the 1st of December came 
 in sight of the Port of Sallagua, which appears like two harbours, being 
 parted by a high rocky point in the middle. Here they saw a number of 
 Spaniards, both horse and foot, who made a military parade, with drums 
 beating and colours flying ; but 200 of the bucaniers landing the next 
 morning, the foot did not stand a single charge, and the horse soon fol- 
 lowed. Two of the English having knocked two Spaniards off their 
 horses, mounted and pursued the others so far that they were surrounded 
 by them ; and would ha^'e undoubtedly been killed, if some of the swiftest 
 of their companions had not come to their rescue just in time : as they 
 had stood the discharge of several pistols, and were already unhorsed. 
 Here was a broad stony road, which they were informed by two mulattoes, 
 prisoners, led to the city of Oarrah, distant four long days' journey, the 
 country being very thin of inhabitants all the way ; and that the troops 
 they had put to flight were sent from that city to secure the Manilla ship 
 which was to set some passengers on shore there. 
 
 On this they sailed on the 6th, intending to cruise off Cape Corientes, 
 to wait for the ship ; on the 11th, being within sight of the cape, they 
 stationed themselves so as they imagined she could not pass ; but being 
 in want of provisions, fifty or sixty men went in a bark to procure some, 
 to the west of the cape, which being unable to get round, were obliged 
 to return ; however, they left some men behind them in four canoes, who 
 intended to row to the west. On the 24th, the four canoes meeting with 
 very indifferent success, returned to the ships near the cape, having, by 
 the help of their canoes, got round it and landed in the Valderas, or 
 valley of flags. This vale lying at the bottom of a deep bay, is about 
 three leagues wide. On the land side it is bounded by a green hill, which, 
 descending gradually into the valley, affords a delightful prospect, rendered 
 still more beautiful by the wide-spread pastures stored with cattle, and 
 the pleasant groves of guaivas, orange, and lime trees, which grow wild 
 here in prodigious numbers. In this delightful place the canoes landed 
 thirty-seven men, who, advancing three miles into the country, were at- 
 tacked by 150 Spaniards, horse and fool ; when, to avoid the trampling 
 of the horses, the bucaniers retired to a close wood, where they sustained 
 the attack of the enemy with great bravery, killing the leader and seven- 
 teen of the horsemen, and the rest flying. The English lost four men, 
 besides two wounded, who were brought down to the canoes upon horses ; 
 one of the latter they were obliged to kill and eat, for though there were 
 plenty of horned cattle upon the savanna, they were afraid to venture 
 there again, their enemies being too strong. 
 
 On the 25th, being Christmas day, they regaled on some Jew fish ; 
 and, on the 28th, Captain Townley returned on board with forty bushels 
 of maize, which he had taken at an Indian village up the country, five 
 leagues to the east of Cape Corientes. Their provisions being again 
 exhausted, they steered to the vale of Valderas, to provide a supply of 
 beef, coming to an anchor about a mile from the.shore, in sixty fathom 
 water. Here 240 men landed, fifty of whom were appointed to watch 
 the motions of the Spaniards (who frequently appeared in large com- 
 panies, but dared not attack them) while the rest were employed in kill- 
 ing and salting as many cows as would sufliice for two months, their salt 
 
 7 
 
74 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 being insufficient for a longer time. Here spending six or seven Jays, 
 the Manilla ship passed by to the eastward, as they afterward learned 
 from some prisoners whom they happened to seize. The ioss of this 
 prize is attributed to the wLlfulaess of Captain Townley, who woald 
 msist on attempting to take the Lima ship in the harbour of Acapulco^ 
 when they ought to h.ave been providing themselves with beef and maize, 
 which afterward, being absolutely in want of, they were compelled to do, 
 while the ship escaped them. Townley's chief view in cruising in these 
 seas being the hope of meeting the ship, and that no-w being at an end, 
 he and Swan parted compauy ; Swan keeping on a westward coarse, 
 and Townley going back to th£ east ; but the former alone it is our bu- 
 siness to follow. 
 
 Sailing from the bay on the 7th of January, 1686^ with a good wind 
 at north-east, at night passed by Point Pontiq.ue, the most westerly end 
 of the valley of Valderas. On the 20th,. anchored on the east side of 
 the Chametly islands, which are six in number, and lie in twenty-three 
 decrees eleven minutes north latitude. 
 
 More Captain Swan, taking 100 men with him, proceeded to the north- 
 ward to discover the River Cullacan, supposed to lie in a province of the 
 same name, in twerity-four degrees north latitude, and to have a wealthy 
 town on its banks. They rowed thirty leagues without seeing any signa 
 of the river, or any place where to land with safety ; but afterward dis- 
 embarked on the west side of a salt lake, seven leagues from the 
 Chametly islands, where they found some few bushels of maiz.e in a 
 farm house, and took a prisoner. This man informed them there were 
 generally a considerable number of black cattle in that place, which the 
 Spaniards had driven off; but that in all probability they would find pro- 
 visions in an Indian town about five leagues distance, to which they im- 
 mediately marched. Here they were opposed, on attempting to enter it, 
 by a considerable party of Spaniards and Indians, whom they repulsed 
 at the first charge ; and entering the place, found two or three wounded 
 Indians, who told them the town was called Massactan, and that there 
 were two rich gold mines about five leagues distant. On the 2d of 
 February, eighty men were sent to. a town .called Rosario, situated on a 
 river of the same name ; and though they were told the mines were not 
 above two leagues thence, yet, as they were more in want of provisions 
 than of gold, they paid no regard to the infonaation, contenting them- 
 selves with carrying otf about ninety bushels of maize. Quitting Rosario 
 for the River of St. Jago, in hopes of finding a town of some consequence, 
 seventy men were sent up the river in canoes, while the ships anchored 
 at its mouth. They soon found a corn-fieid, and while busy gathering 
 maize, took an Indian, who informed them that four leagues farther was 
 a town called Santa Pecaque. As soon as the news went on board, 
 Captain Swan ordered eight canoes and 140 men to proceed with the 
 Indian to the place. 
 
 They sailed some miles up the river, and then landing, marched 
 through woods and plains for three or four hours, and then approaching 
 the town, and the Spaniards quitting it, the bucaniers entered without 
 opposition. The town of Santa Pecaque, near which are some silver 
 mines, is situated in a large plain on the borders of a wood. It is neatly 
 built, but not large, has a square market-place in the middle, and two 
 churches. Here they found plenty of salt fish, salt, sugar, and maize, 
 and the captain dividing his people into two companies, ordered half to 
 carry the provisions on board, and the other half to take care of the town ; 
 
WILLIAM DAMPIER. 75 
 
 riiey continued this business for two days, but a mutinous spirit getting 
 among the rnen, they refused to march with the regularity the captain 
 vvishe'd, so that fifty-four hor:ies, guided by fifty men, who were convey- 
 ing maize to the canoes, were attacked by the Spaniards, who killed 
 ihem every one upon the spot ; and though Captain Swan marched to 
 their relief, the enemy, who it is likely had paid pretty dear for the vic- 
 tory, nevei attempted to attack him ; the rest of the men returned safely 
 on board with their commander. 
 
 On the day following this unhappy engagement, the captain gave or- 
 ders for filling water and sailing ; accordingly, they got under sad the 21st, 
 steerincr toward California. On the 7th of February, anchored at Prince 
 George's Island, the middlemost of the Tres Marias, at which place 
 our autnor, who was much atilicted with the dropsy, was buried for about 
 half an hour up to llie neck in the hot sand, which producing a plentiful 
 l)er.spiralion, lie was then wrapped up warm, and put to bed in a tent, by 
 which means he obtained great relief in the disorder. They remained 
 here careening till the 26th ; but as no fresh water could be got, it being 
 a dry season, they sailed to a rivulet on the continent, near Cape Cori- 
 entes, where they remained for some time ; and having had but indifferent 
 success in these parts, came to a resolution of steering for the East 
 Indies, to which voyage many of the men were averse. Captain Swan, 
 however, Mr. Dampier, and a majority of the people, declared in favour 
 of the attempt. 
 
 They sailed for Cape Corientes on the 31st of March, 1G8G, and 
 having a trade-wind and fair weather, proceeded quickly in their voyage. 
 On the 20lh of May, about four o'clock, discovered land, at eight leagues 
 distance, to their great joy, having then but three days' provisions left, 
 and the people beginning to murmur at the captain for carying thorn so 
 far out of their knowledge. About eleven at night, on the 21st of May, 
 they came to an anchor about a mile from shore, on the west side of the 
 Island of Guam, one of the Ladrones ; and the next morning Captain 
 Swan wrote a letter, which he sent with some presents to the governor; 
 who, in return, sent plenty of hcgs, cocoa nuts, rice, fifty pounds of fine 
 Manilla tobacco, and other refreshments. 
 
 Here the captain being informed by a friar, who came on board, that the 
 Philippines abounded with provisions, they made sail on the 2d of June, 
 arid on the 21st arrived at the Island of St. John, which he passed by, 
 and came to an anchor in a small bay, on the east side of Mindanao, 
 which had been represented as the most plentiful of these islands. 
 
 The Philippines are a range of large islands, extending from five to 
 nineteen degrees of north latitude. .The chief is called Luconia, where 
 Magellan was killed by a poisoned arrow, and is now in possession of the 
 Spaniards. St John and Mindanao are the only islands of all the Philip- 
 pines which are not under Spanish subjection ; and are situated most to 
 tlie .south. St. John is in length about thirty-eight leagues ; its greatest 
 breadth is about twenty-four, and the soil is very fertile. Mindanao is 
 sixty leagues in length, and between forty and fifty in breadth ; the soil 
 ia good, and there are some stony hill?, which produce many kinds of 
 trees entirely unknown in Enghnd. The valleys are well watered, and 
 abound with yams, potatoes, pumpkins, watermelons, plantains, bana- 
 nas, guaivas, nutmeg:?, cloves, bctle nuts, durians, cocoas, oranges, &c., 
 but particularly the tree whence sago is gathered, which the inhabitants 
 call the libby tree, arid which grows wild by the water-side, in groves of 
 several miles in length. 
 
76 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The people in general resemble each other in strength, stature, and 
 colour ; they are not large, but well limbed, with little black eyes, oval 
 faces, fiat foreheads, short noses, wide moutlis, black teeth and hair, and 
 bright tawny skina. They never cut their thumb-nails,, but sometime? 
 scrape them ; and that of the left hvind is generally thsr longest. They 
 are th i\iah. and indolent, not caring to woik hard, except they are drove 
 to it ; but ingenious and nimble^ and very civil to strangers. The men 
 neither wear &hoes nor stockings, but breeches and frocks, and have a 
 turban tied once round the head in a knot, the ends^ hanging down, and 
 either laced or fringed. 
 
 The women have smaller features than the in«n, and look agreeable 
 enough at a ;li.-;l:ince ; but their noses are so very small, that in some 
 scarce any rising between the eyes can be discerned. They have alsa 
 very small feet. They wear their hair tied in a knot, hanging down their 
 backs. Thdr garments are a piece of cloth, which forms a kind of pet- 
 ticoat, and a loose frock that reaches a little below the waist, the sleeves 
 of which are so narre>w that they cnn hardly get their hands through, 
 but are longer than their arms, and set in plaits round their wrists. 
 
 They have a custom peculiar to the city of Mindanao. On the arrival 
 of strangers, the men come on board to invite them to their houses, 
 where it is asked if they choose a pagally, or comrade, which the stran- 
 ger, through civility, is obliged to accept ; and, to show their gratitude 
 'for which, must make a small present ; in return for which, they have- 
 the liberty of eating, drinking, and sleeping in their friend'^& house as oftert 
 as they please. 
 
 The most populous and estensiire district in the island is Mindanao, 
 whence it derives its nam-e ; the people are tolerably well civilized, lying 
 near the sea, and being pretty much engaged in commerce. Dampier 
 does not pretend to describe all the different people of this island ; but 
 informs us, that the most remarkable anrong them are the Hillanoons, 
 who inhabit the inland mounlainous part of the country, and are proprie- 
 tors of the gold mines. The houses of Mindanao are built upon posts 
 eighteen or twenty feet high, to which tl>ey ascend by a ladder. The 
 building consists only of one flour, which is divided into several rooms. 
 The roof is of palm leaves, and in the space under the house the common 
 people keep ducks and fowls. 
 
 The house of the sultan stands upon 150 great posts, ami is much 
 higher than the rest, with brojid steps leading up to it. In the first room 
 are twenty iron guns on carriages ; the general and other great men have 
 also guns in their houses. Near this is another, raised about four feet 
 from the ground, where the sukan and his council sit cross-legged on 
 rich carpets, to give audience to ambassadors and foreign merchants. 
 The floors of the houses in general are well matted, as no chairs are used 
 in the country. The common people feed on fish, rice, arxi sago, but 
 the better sort have buffaloes and fowls, which they dress with a great 
 deal of rice ; but are miserable cooks. Tliey use no spoons, but take up 
 food with their fingers, and usually wash after meals. Bathing is much 
 practised among these people, a beneficial custom in hot countries ; and 
 it is common for them to go into the river, strip themselves, wash their 
 clothes, put them on again, and go about their business. Some speak 
 Spanish, but the most common languages are the Malayan and that of 
 Mindanao. They have frequently invited the English to settle among 
 ihem, but are afraid of the Dutch and Spaniard.^. Almost every person 
 here is a goldsmith, blacksmith, or carpenter. They build good ships, 
 
^YILLIAM DAMPIER. 77 
 
 adapted for trade or pleasure, and deal in gold, bees- wax, and tobacco, 
 the last of which is better than that of Manilla, which may probably be 
 owing to the difference of the soil. Agues, fevers, fluxes, are the most 
 common disorders ; for all which diseases the country affords sufficient 
 Biedicines, which the people very well know how to prepare and use. 
 
 The sultan is despotic, but so poor, that if he knows any of his subjects 
 have money, .he will borrow it, nor do they dare to refuse him. He had, 
 in Dampier's time, besides his sultana, tweaty-ni'iie concubines, and was 
 then between fifty and sixty years of a^e. Several of t\\e concubines would 
 beg trifles of the sailors whom they met in the streets. When the sultan 
 went abroad, he was carried in a litter upon four men's shoulders, attend- 
 ed by a guard of eight or ten men, but he never went far from the 
 •city, as the adjacent country was woody, and inconvenient for travelling. 
 
 Sometimes he took pleasure on the wal-er with his women, in a neat 
 vessel built for that purpose, with a cabin made of bamboo, and divided 
 into three rooms ; in one of which he reposed on a carpet, whereon little 
 pillows were laid for his head ; the women attended in the second ; and 
 the servants, with betle and tobacco, waited inthethirtl. He sometimes 
 makes war with the mountaineers ; the weapons they use are swords, 
 lances, and a sort of bayonet called a cresset, which is worn by all per- 
 sons from the highest to the lowest. They fight no pitched battles in 
 the field, but make small wooden forts, which they defend by guns, and 
 from which they sally to surprise each other in small parties ; but neither 
 give nor take quarter. 
 
 The ouly music they have are bells without clappers, which are com- 
 monly sixteen in number, and increase in weight from three pounds to 
 ten. These being placed upon a table, are struck with a stick, and pro- 
 duce an uncouth disagreeable noise. Mr. Dampier heard a set of these 
 in the house of the king's brother, whose son being to be circumcised, 
 occasioned their being used for several days together, previous to the 
 ceremony. They have women who sing and dance to the music of their 
 own voices, and others dance with them : nor aie the sultan's children 
 above joining in these gambols. These people observe the Ramadam, 
 or fasting time, in the month of August, beginning at one new moon and 
 continuing till the next, during which time they fast till the evening, then 
 go to prayers for an hour, and afterward feast heartily. They have so 
 great an aversion to swine's flesh as not to permit a person who has 
 touched a hog to enter their houses for some days afterward ; yet there 
 are great numbers of these animals running wild about the island, which 
 they often requested Captain Swan's people to destroy. The sultan's 
 brother having desired to have a pair of shoes from one of the sailors, 
 but being told that they were sewed with threads pointed with hogs' 
 bristles, he returned them in a great passion, and desired to have a pair 
 sewed in some other manner, and was extremely pleased that his request 
 was complied with. 
 
 As the people of the island proved civil, and as the season of the year 
 was far advanced, Captain Swan began to entertain thoughts of staying 
 at Mindanao for a considerable time ; and thinking that, in this case, it 
 would be proper to make a friend of the sultan, he sent Mr. Moore on 
 shore with three yards of scarlet cloth and three of silver lace, as a 
 present. An audience being granted to him about nine o'clock at night 
 by the sultan, his interpreter conversed with him above an hour in Spa- 
 nish ; after which he and his people were entertained with an excellent 
 •upper. Next day Captain Swan visited the sultan, and was entertained 
 
 7» 
 
78 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 v;ith betle and tobacco ; two letters were shown him, one from the East 
 India company of London, who had entertained thoiiglits of building a 
 fort there ; and the other, which was directed to any Englishman who 
 might happen to stop there, was from one Captain Goodlud, and concluded 
 with these words, "Trust none of them, they are all thieves." One of 
 the general's men had stolen some goods from this Captain Goodlud, 
 and fled to the mountains. This fellow being taken while Captain Swan 
 was upon the island, the sultan would have delivered him to the captain 
 to be punished ; but Swan refusing to interfere in the business, the sul- 
 tan, to manifest his love of justice, ordered him to be bound to a post by 
 the hands and feet, where he was exposed the whole day to the heat of 
 the sun and the stinging of the moschetoes. In consequence of this 
 equitable behaviour in the sultan, Captain Swan gave positive orders that 
 none of his people should oltend the natives ; and he punished Mr. Teat, 
 his chief-mate, for some slight fault^e had been guilty of. The chief- 
 general. Raja Laut, being at variance with the sultan, was not present 
 when Captain Swan held his conference with his majesty, but be waited 
 his return, and treated him and his people very hospitably with rice and 
 fowls boiled. Raja was a person of exceeding good understanding, wrote 
 the Spanish language, and spoke it fluently, was conversant in books of 
 that language, and not unacquainted with the customs of European na- 
 tions. He was very friendly to Captain Swan, gave him his best advice, 
 and offered him the use of his house while he remained on the island. 
 
 As the tempestuous weather began to approach, the sailors, by the help 
 of fifcy or sixty fishermen, hauled the ship up the river, where they dug a 
 hole and moored lier, so that she was always afloat ; and the inhabitants 
 coming on boaid, all the men were soon provided with pagallys, or com- 
 rades, who behaved in a very friendly manner to them. Captain Swan 
 was usually attended with trumpets at his dinner, the music of which 
 aflforded Raja Laut the highest entertainment. 
 
 The city of Mindanao, which is a mile in length, and situated on the 
 bank of the river, is a perfect pond during the wet season, and the ship 
 would have been in the utmost danger from the large pieces of timber 
 which were washed down by the floods, had not great care been taken to 
 preserve her. When these began to abate, Captain Swan hired a ware- 
 house, where he kept his goods and sails while the ship was careening ; 
 and remarking that Raja Laut was exceedingly fond of dancing, sent for 
 his violins onshore, with some of the m.en to entertain him. Among the 
 rest one John Thacker, a frugal fellow, who had saved money enough to 
 dress himself genteelly, and who had learned to dance at same of the 
 music houses in Wapping, was mistaken by the general for a nolrfeman, 
 and one of the sailors confirmed him in his error. But the a.ff:\h coming 
 to the knowledge of the captain, the tar was thrashed for the imposition; 
 and the general was undeceived, but could never afterward endure the 
 sight of the fellow. When careening the ship, they found that a most 
 astonishing number of worms had eaten into her bottom during her stay 
 in the harbour ; but having new sheathed this, they steered out on the 
 10th of December, and began to fill water, and carry rice on board. The 
 general, however, who had his views in detaining the vessel, kept several 
 of the men on shore hunting with him, under pretence of stocking the 
 ship with beef; but Mr. Dampier, who was one of the hunting party, 
 says, that in ten days' excursion they met with only four cows, and of 
 these were not able to catch any one. Captain Swan now began to en- 
 tertain thoughts of quitting the island, with a view to take in a lading ot 
 
WILLIAM DaMPIER. 79 
 
 spice at an adjacent island, which has been since in possession of the 
 Dutch ; but the men expected he would have continued the privateering, 
 which he was extremely averse to, though he carefully concealed it from 
 them. Raja Laut had a hunting match in search of black cattle the day after 
 Christmas-day, iu which he was accompanied by all his wives, and five or 
 six Englishmen : in this expedition they killed three heifers, but he and his 
 company took care to drink so plentifully of a very agreeable liquor, ex- 
 tracted from rice, that they were drunk two or three times before night. 
 
 At this time one of the men happening by accident to find Captain 
 Swan's journal, showed it to his companions ; and as they found he had 
 made remarks on the smallest oftence of every sailor on board, and been 
 very free in his reflections on the crew in general, they determined to 
 deprive him of the command, choosing Mr. Read captam, and Mr. Teat 
 master ; and having resolved to cruise before Manilla, they set sail on 
 the 14th of January, 1687, leaving Captain Swan and thirty-six men on 
 shore. Mr. Dampier was among those who left Mindanao. On the 3d 
 of February they anchored oflF an island to the west of the Isle of Sebo, 
 tlie name of which they did not know, in latitude nine degrees fifteen 
 minutes, where neither house nor inhabitants were seen, but a prodi- 
 gious number of largo bats, the wings of some of which, when extended, 
 measured eight feet from tip to tip, and were edged with sharp crooked 
 claws, which clung fast to anything they happened to touch. 
 
 They sailed from this place on the 10th of February, coasting along 
 the west side of the Philippine islands. On the ISch came to an anchor 
 at the north-west end of Mindora, an island forty leagues in length. 
 Here they found a small river of fresh water, running into the sea, near 
 the place where they lay at anchor, and savi? plenty of oxen and hogs, 
 but so wild they could not catch them. During their stay, a canoe from 
 Manilla, with four Indians on board, came and gave information that in 
 the harbour of Manilla there were generally twenty or thirty vessels be- 
 longing to the Spaniards, Portuguese, and Chinese, and that if inclined 
 to engage in a clandestine trade, they would carry letters to some mer- 
 chants of that place. 
 
 Left this place on the 2Ist ; on the 23d arrived at the south-east end 
 of the Island of Luconia, where they took two barks bound to Manilla, 
 from Pagassanam, a small town on this island. Luconia is near 60 
 leagues broad, and not less than 120 in length ; it is surrounded by many 
 small islands, of which Mindora, the principal, lies nearest, and gives its 
 name to a channel between it and the former. The country is partly 
 composed of mountains, which afford some gold, and partly of large pas- 
 ture-plains, stored with buffaloes, cows, horses, sheep, goats, and hogs. 
 It is said to be extremely healthy, though situated in fifteen degrees north 
 latitude ; and its water is esteemed the best in the world. It is inhabited 
 by Indians, who live in small towns, and are instructed in the Roman 
 Catholic religion by Spanish priests. Manilla is the chief, if not the 
 only city, seated at the foot of a ridge of high hills. It is defended by a 
 strong wall ; the houses are spacious, strong, and covered with tiles ; 
 the streets large and regular, with a market-place in the middle. It is 
 adorned with several churches and convents, and the harbour is very large. 
 The city is well watered, and the country about it is fruitful and plentiful. 
 Its chief trade is with Acapulco. 
 
 As the season of the year was too far advanced to think of trade, they 
 determined to sail for Pulo Condore, the chief of a cluster of small is- 
 lands oa the coast of Cambodia, and to return in the month of May, to 
 
BO VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 lie in wait for the Acapulco ship ; accordingly they sailed from Lnconia 
 on the 36th of February, and anchored on the north side of Pulo Con- 
 dore on the 14th of March. This island, the only one of the cluster 
 that is inhabited, produces several kinds of trees, among which is a very 
 tall one, between three and four feet in diameter ; from an incision made 
 jn the trunk of which they distilled a liquor, that when heated a little, 
 had the virtues of tar, and being kept longer over the fire, acquired the 
 consistence of pitch, in lieu of which it was used with success. One of 
 these trees affords two quarts of juice daily, for a month together ; after 
 which, drying up, it recovers itself again. Mango trees are also produced 
 here, the fruit of which is pickled while green with salt, vinegar, and 
 garlic. The fruit is about the size of a small peach, very juicy and plea- 
 sant, and is so fragrant as to perfume the air at some distance On this 
 island grows a straight tree, about a foot in diameter, upon which grapes 
 grow in clusters about the body o-f the tree, like the fruit of the cocoa 
 tree, and have a very pleasant taste. There is also a kind of bastard 
 nutmeg, which exactly resembles the true, but has neither smell nor taste. 
 Here are hogs, guanoes, and lizards, together with several sorts of fowl, 
 as j>arrots, paroquets, wild cocks and hens, turtle-doves and pigeons. 
 The sea-shore abounds with muscles, limpets, and turtle. 
 
 The inhabitants, who came originally from Cochin China, are small, 
 but well shaped ; of a dark complexion, long visage, black hair, thin lips, 
 little eyes, and white teeth ;. very civil, but poor ; their chief employment 
 consisting in supplying vessels with the juice of the tar tree, and making 
 turtle oil, by boiling the fat of the fish, which they send to Cochin China. 
 These people are mostly idolaters ; but Dampier does not pretend to be 
 acquainted with the ceremonies of their religion ; only he imagines they 
 worship the elephant and the horse, having observed a representation of 
 the latter on the outside, and of the former in the inside of a temple, 
 which was a mean wooden building, in a sn>aU village on the south side 
 of the island. They staid at this place from the 16th March to the 16ih 
 of April, during which they careened the ship, and made her a fresh suit 
 of sails out of the cloth taken on board the Spanish prize. 
 
 While remaining here, the inhabitants supplied them with plenty of hogs, 
 turtle, and fruit, for which they took rice in exchange. Having unloaded 
 the prize taken at Manilla, they went to the north side of the island to 
 supply themselves with water, and then taking on board a person who 
 understood the Malay language to pilot them to Siam, with which place, 
 as well as the islands lying on the road, he pretended to be acquainted, 
 they set sail on the 17th of April, and entered the Bay of Siam on the 
 24tb, where the pilot ran them aground. At this place Captain Read 
 went on shore among the islands in search of fish, but returned without 
 success ; and steering for Pulo Ubi, at which place they had touched in 
 their passage hither, found two vessels at anchor, laden with lacquer, such 
 as is used in japanning. These vessels, one of which was remarkably 
 neat, had on board forty sailors, brisk sociable fellows, armed with guns, 
 swords, and lances. They returned to Pulo Condore on the 21st of May, 
 where was found a small bark at anchor, to hail which Captain Read sent 
 a canoe along side of her ; but charged his men not to venture on board, 
 without having first made friends of the people, lest they should be 
 Malays, whom he knew to be remarkably treacherous. However, the 
 men neglected his orders, and boarded her, but were soon obliged to re- 
 treat, being attacked with a kind of bayonets, called cresses, and compelled 
 to leap into the sea and swim for their lives ; and it is not a little ex- 
 
WlLLlAitf DAJtPiER. 81 
 
 Vraordinary, iKat one of the men, named Daniel Wallis, ^vfiirt\ on that 
 occasion, though he could never swim before, nor was able to repeat it 
 afterward. Captain Read manned two canoes, in order to punish these 
 people : but as soon as they saw the English advancing, escaped into the 
 woods, having first cut a hole in the bark's bottom, and sunk her. 
 
 Quitting Pulo Condore with a south-west wind On the 4th of June, 
 1687, intending to cruise off Manilla, the wind soon changed to the south- 
 ieast, and they were forced on the coast of China, and coming to an an- 
 chor on the north-ifiast of St. John's Island, lying in 2S degrees 30 minutes 
 north latitude. 
 
 The skirts Of this spot, bordering the sea, are for the most patt woody : 
 the soil is generally fertile ; and in the inland pfarts there are good pas- 
 ture-'grounds and many grov^es of trees. They have plenty of tame ducks, 
 tocks, and hens, but nO wild fowls : buffaloes, bullocks, goatSj and China 
 hogs are very plenty. These hogs are black, have tshort necks, small 
 beads, short legs, and bellies whfch sv\'Oep the ground. The natives 
 chiefly maintain themselves by cultivating rice. They are tall, raw-boned, 
 straight-bodied men ; have tawny complexions, long faces, acqujline noses, 
 Bmall eyes, black hair, and thin beards, which arc tied up in knots, or 
 r.urled in whiskers on each side of their lips. They were formerly very 
 proud of their hair, but the Tartars, when they marde a conquest of this 
 country, compelled theirv to shave their heads, leaving only one lock on 
 the crown of the head, which they permit to grow to a great length, 
 and sometimes it flows loose, though it is generally platted. It is as 
 mueh as the life cf a Chinese is worth, to be found with long hair ; and 
 many have been known to abandon their country rather than part with it. 
 They wear no covering for the head, but instead, use an umbrella to shade 
 them from the weather ; a large fan is Used fOr the same purpose, if they 
 have but a little way to go. They Wear nO stockings, but slippers ou 
 their feet, and the covering is a light frock and breeches. 
 
 The women On this island, as well as those on the continent of China^ 
 are compelled to be much at home, on account of the smallncss of their 
 feet, which are bound up prodigiously tight in their infancy to prevent 
 their growing, small feet being esteemed a great beauty ; for this reason 
 they only stumble about their houses, being obliged to sit dov;n at the 
 lend of every two or three steps. They make very curious embroidery 
 for their shoes, and in general are excellent needle-women. The feet of 
 the poorer women are suffered to grow nxuch larger, that they may be 
 able to produce their subsistence. Tliere is 4 small town On the island^ 
 situated in marshy ground, the houses of which are mean, lowly^ badly 
 furnished, and built upon posts. 
 
 While at anchor, a Chinese junk lay near them, flat both at the head 
 and stern, having little huts three feet high on the deck, which were 
 covered with palmetto leaves. She had a large cabin, with an altar and 
 lamp burning in it. The hold was divided into several partitions, each so 
 tight, that if a leak should spring in one, the goods in the ne.Kt would 
 receive no damage. Every merchant has his particular room, where he 
 stows his goods, and someticnes lodges in it himself. This has only two 
 masts, a main-mast and fore -mast ; the last has a square sail and square 
 yard, but the main-mast has a sail narrow aloft, like a sloOp's sail. In 
 fair weather they use also a top-sail, which in foul weather they haul 
 dovvn on deck, yard and all. The main-mast of the largest junks is as 
 large as that of our third-rate men-of-v/ar, but made all out of one tree 
 and not pieced as ours are. 
 
82 VOYAGES ROUND THE WoRL£>- 
 
 Perceiving all imaginable signs of an approaching storm, on the 3cl of 
 July they weighed anchor, and got out to sea with all possible expedition, 
 that they might not want room. About eleven o'clock at night the storm 
 overtook them, which lasted with prodigious fierceness till about four in 
 the morning, when the hopes of the superstitious sailors were revived by 
 the sight of a corpus sanctum upon the niain-mast, which they looked upoii 
 as the forerunner of good weather, but had it been upon deck, they would 
 have esteemed it a certain sign of being lost. The corpus sanctum is 
 a small glittering light like a star, which usually dances about a ship in 
 hard weather. By eleven o'clock the nexf mornmg it was stark calm ; 
 after which the storm raged more violently than ever ; and as they dread- 
 ed the continuance of bad weather during this moon, which Vv'as near the 
 full, they determined to steer away for the Piscadores, or Fisher islands, 
 which he in 33 degrees north latitude. On the 20th of July, gained sight 
 of them, and came to an anchor between the two easternmost islands, 
 on the west side of one of which they wore agreeably surprised to find a 
 large town, with a fort commanding the harbour, the houses of which 
 were neatly built, but low. 
 
 Some of the men who went on shore were carried before the governor, 
 who, being informed that they were English, and intended to trade, said 
 they must not pretend to do it, as it was a thing absolutely forbidden tliere. 
 He treated them, however, with great civility, and said he would assist 
 them as much as lay in his power, sending a present to the captain, of a 
 small jar of flour, some watermelons, about a dozen pine apples, and some 
 cakes of fine brertd. They were visited the next day by an officer of a 
 very grand appearance, dressed in a loose coat, with breeches and boots 
 of 'olack silk, and a black silk cap, on which was a plume of black and 
 white feathers. He brought on board with him, us a present from the 
 governor, a very fat heifer, two large hogs, four goats, two baskets of 
 flour, twenty large flat cakes of bread, two jars of sam-shu, or arrack, and 
 fifty-five jars of hoc-shu, a strong pleasant liquor resembling mum, and 
 which is extracted from wheat. In return for these presents Captain 
 Read sent the governor a silver-hilted sword, a carbine, and a gold chain ; 
 and on the gentleman's return, he was saluted with three guns. 
 
 They sailed from the Piscadores with a south-v/est wind on the 29th 
 of July, steering for some Httle islands between Formosa and Luconia, 
 known by no other name than the Five isles, which they imagined to be 
 uninhabited ; but, to tlieir great surprise, found three poj)u]ous towns, all 
 Aithin a league from the sea. One of these, about eight leagues long 
 and two broad, they called the Prince of Orange Island, in honour of the 
 Prince of Orange, afterward King William the Third. To another Dam- 
 pier gave the name of Grafton, in honour of the Duke of Grafion, in 
 whose family his wife then lived ; and a third was called Monmouth Is- 
 land, in honour of the Duke of Monmouth ; these were ihe three largest, 
 and of the otliers, one they called the Goat Island, from the number of 
 goats they saw upon it, and the other Bashee, from a pleasant liquor of 
 that name, which they drank there. Orange Island, though the largest, 
 is uninhabited, being rocky and barren ; on Goat Island there is one town, 
 Dut Monmouth and Grafton Islands contain a great number of inhabitants. 
 The hills of these isles are rocky, but the valleys are fertile in grass, plan- 
 tains, bananas, pine apples, pumpions, sugar Canes, potatoes, and cotton. 
 Thev are well waiered with running streams, and stored with goats and 
 hogs, but have scarcely any fowl, either wild or tame. 
 
 The natives are short and thick, round-visaged, with low foreheads, 
 
WILLIAM DAMPIER* 83 
 
 and thick eye-brows ; their noses flattish and short, their eyes of a hazel 
 colour and small, hut not so small as those of the Chinese; their lips 
 and mouths of the middle size, with white teeth, and black thick straight 
 hair, which they cut short, so as not to permit it to cover their ears. 
 Their comj)lcxion is a dark copper colour. The men go bare-headed ; 
 some wear no clothes but a cloth about the middle, but others have a 
 kind of jacket made of plantain leaves, as rough as a bear's skin. Th^ 
 women have a short petticoat of coarse calico, of their own making, 
 which reaches a little below the knees. Both sexes wear ear-rings made 
 of a yellow metal, which they dig out of the mountains ; it is of th& 
 weight of tru5 gold, but rather paler. Our author is not absolutely cer 
 tain whether it was real gold or not, for though of a fine colour at first 
 it afterward faded, which making the people on board suspect it, they did 
 not buy much. They observed the natives cover it with a kind of red 
 earth, and then put it into a quick fire, till it was red-hol, which broughs 
 it to its former colour again. 
 
 The houses axe very small, and not above five feet in height, built witb 
 small posts fastened together with boughs. At one end of the house iN 
 the fire-place, near which he a number of boards, on which they sleep. 
 They inhabit villages built on the sides of rocky hills, three or four rowf 
 of houses being one above another. These rocky precipices are framed 
 by nature into deep steps or stories, upon each of which they build ». 
 ruw of their houses, and ascend from one row or street to the other by 
 ladders, which being drawn up, there is no possibility of climbing to at - 
 tack them. The street to every row of houses runs parallel to the tops 
 of the houses of the row beneath, and the ladder by which they ascenflr 
 
 is placed in the middle of the street. These people live mostly by fish- 
 
 ing boats, whi 
 
 I'hey have also larger vessels, which are managed with twelve or four- 
 
 ing, and are very expert in building boats, which resemble our yawls 
 
 teen oars. What husbandry aflairs they carry on, are managed chiefly 
 by the women. It was customary for them to beg the paunches of thft 
 hogs and goats killed by the ship's crew, the contents of which they puV 
 into a pot, and then boiling it, eat it with raw fish ; but they have a dish 
 made of locusts, which is not ill tasted. These insects coming at cer- 
 tain seasons to devour their plants, are caught with nets, and bake or 
 boil them in an earthen pan. Their common drink is water, but they 
 have also a strong and intoxicating liquor called baahec, made of tha 
 sugar cane, boiled and mixed with some blackberries, which is put int<> 
 jars and kept five or six days, and then it greatly resembles English bee% 
 both in colour and taste. 
 
 Dampier does not pretend to he acquainted with their language, which 
 is neithev like the Chinese nor Malay ; but he observes that the yiWow 
 metal already mentioned, is called by the name of bullawar, which is 
 the word that the Indians of the Philippine islands use for gold. They 
 have no arms but lances, headed with iron, and wear a kind of coat of 
 mail made of the skin of the buffalo, which is as thick as a board, has 
 no sleeves, and reaches down to the calves of their legs. These people 
 appeared to have no religion or government, nor any precedency among 
 them, except that the children were very obedient to their parents ; but 
 \e fancies they have aficient customs which serve them for laws, for they 
 saw a young lad buried alive, as they supposed for theft. Each man has 
 only one wife, who is very obedient to her husband. Their boys are 
 brought up to fishing, and the girls work on the plantations with their 
 mothers, where each faiiuly cultivates as much ground as is necessary 
 
84 VOYAGES ftClUND THE t^(5Rl0. 
 
 for its own supply. They are civil, good-tempered people, neither quarrel^ 
 ling among themselves nor with others. They have no coin, but pass 
 their yellow metal as money, which they pay away by guess. On the 
 ship's first anchoring here, about a hundred boats, filled with the natives^ 
 came round her at once, and made no scruple of going on board, ex- 
 changing yams, potatoes, and bashee, for leaden bullets, spikes, and old 
 nails ; a fat goat for an old iron hoop ; and a fat hog of eighty pounds 
 weight for two or three pounds of iron. 
 
 On the 35th of September our adventurers were driven out to sea by 
 a violent storm, which continued to such a degree till the 29th, that they 
 were every moment in danger of being swallowed by the waves ; and it 
 tvas the 1st of October before they could get back to Bashee Island. The 
 men were so discouraged by this, that they determined to lay aside all 
 thoughts of cruising before Manilla, and were more inclined to a home- 
 ward voyage Chan to any dthfer enterprise ; but Captain Read and Mr. 
 Teat at length persuaded them to steer for Cape Comorin, by going round 
 lo the east of the Philippine islands, and so keeping south Of the Spice 
 islands, to pass into the Indian Ocean, about the Island of Timor ; in- 
 stead of which, as the eastern monsoon was at band, our author observe*^ 
 that their nearest and best way would have been to have passed through 
 the straits of Malacca. 
 
 They quitted these islands with fair weather, and wind at west, on the 
 3d of October^ 1087; and, on the 10th of the same month, anchored 
 between two small islands to the south of Mindanao, where they hauled 
 the ship on shore to clean her bottom, and made a new fore-topmast, a 
 pump, a fore-yard, and a bowsprit. At this place a young prince, belong- 
 ing to one of the adjacent Spice islands, came on board and informed 
 them that Captain Swan and his men, whom thcy left behind them, ha(i 
 fought under Raja Laut with good success against the mountaineers, and 
 the captain was in great esteem at Mindanao. Being now so near him, 
 our author would have persuaded the men to submit once more to his 
 authority ; but the affair coming to the knowledge of Captain Read, he 
 took care to prevent it. After this, Mr. Dampier learned that most of 
 Swan's men got on board different ships, but that he himself and the 
 surgeon going on board a Dutch vessel, were overset by the natives and 
 drowned ; and that there was some grounds to imagine that this murdef 
 was perpetrated by order of Raja Laut, partly in revenge for some slight- 
 ing expressions which Swan had imprudently uttered, and partly for the 
 sake of some gold which the captain had amassed, and which, by his 
 death, fell into the hands of the general. 
 
 Thev sailed hence on the 2d of November ; on the 22d, being three 
 leagTies to the southward of the Island of Celebes, saw a large proa, in 
 which were sixty men, attended by six smaller ones, to whom they hoisted 
 Dutch colours, but in vain, with a view to allure them on board. On the 
 coast of this island saw cockles so prodigiously large, that one was suf- 
 ficient to feed seven or eight people. A kind of vine also grew here, the 
 leaves of which being pounded with hog's lard, made an excellent salve 
 for wounds. In three degrees south latitude, on the 30th of November, 
 they discovered three water-spouts : these are very dangerous to ship- 
 ping, but the ill consequences of them are sometimes prevented by firing 
 great guns in order to break them. They are first formed upon the sur- 
 face of the sea, the water of which, after whirling about a long time in 
 the circumference of perhaps a hundred paces, flies up in a pyramidieal 
 form to a cloud, which crowns it, and along with which it drives upon th« 
 
WtLtiAM tiAMPlER. §S 
 
 tvater, until the suction being spent, the spout separates from the cloud, 
 and the water falls again into the sea with a dre-adful noise, and destroys 
 whatever may happen to be beneath it. 
 
 On the Ist of December steered a southern conrse, and on the 6th 
 came to an anchor bn the east side of the Island of Duttbuj lying in four 
 degrees fifty-four minutes eouth latitude. This island is flat and woody, 
 about twenty-five leagues long and ten broad. At half a mile from the 
 sea is CallasUsUng, the residence of the sultan ; it is a long town, seated 
 on the top of a small hill, in a pleasant plain, enclosed with a strong stone 
 wall, within which is a walk of Cocoa trees. The inhabitants are neat, 
 clean, small, and well shaped ; in manners and complexion resembling 
 those of Mindanao. They are Mahometans, and speak the Malay tongue. 
 The sultan, hearing the ship was English, came on bbard with three of 
 his sons, attended by sonie of his nobles, and assured Captain Read he 
 would serve him 10 the best cf his power, and that he was willing to tradR 
 with his subjects for whatever he pleased. The captain caused him to 
 be saluted with five guns ori coming on board, and the same number when 
 he went on shore. The people brought on board plenty of potatoes, 
 eggs, fowlsj and other provisions : and the next day Read, agreeable to 
 an invitation, visited the sultan at his palace, which was a very neat 
 building. He was recfeived in a room on the ground floor, covered with 
 mats, after having first passed through a lane of forty soldiers, armed 
 with lances, who were quite naked ; and vs^as entertained with tobacco, 
 betle, and cocoa nuts. Some time after, the sultan made him a present 
 of two goats, and a boy, each of whose jaws were lined with two rows 
 of teeth. The island abounded in rice and potatoes^ and several beauti- 
 ful birds, particularly paroquets and cockadores. The cockadore is as 
 white as snow, with the shape and bill of a partbt, and has a bunch of 
 feathers like a crown on its head. 
 
 Captain Read remained here till thd 12th, but in attemj3ting to wfeigh, 
 broke the cable and lost the anchor, which had hooked on a rock. On 
 the 16th got elear of the shoals, which lie in great numbers about thia 
 island ; and on the 20th passed the Island of Omba, which in some maps 
 is called Pentara, where they saw thick smokes by day and large fires 
 by night. There is a good town on the north side of this island, near 
 the sea ; but they could not stand in for it, on account of the badness of 
 the weather. Being clear of all the islands by the 27th, they steered for 
 New Holland, which land they fell in with on the 4th of January, 1688, 
 in latitude sixteen degrees fifty minutes south. They ran twelve leagues 
 along the shore before they could find a proper place to anchor in ; but 
 the following day discovered a good harbour, and came to an anchor at 
 the distance of two miles from the shore. 
 
 New Holland is a vast tract of land, which joins neither to Asia, Africa, 
 nor America ; but it is uncertain whether it is part of the main continent, 
 or an island. The land is dry and sandy : near where they anchored 
 there were no rivers ; sd that what fresh water they had was got by dig- 
 ging. The country produces many kinds of trees, which grow at a dis- 
 tance from each other, having under them pretty long grass. From one 
 of these trees distilled a gum, which, on examination, appeared to be 
 gum-dragon. They saw no animals, but discovered the footstep Of 
 some beast that appeared to be like that of a mastilf dog. They found 
 no fruits, and very few birds, the largest of which was no bigger than a 
 thrush ; and the sea appeared almost destitute of fish, except the mana- 
 tee and turtle. The inhabitants of this coputry appear to be the most 
 
 8 
 
86 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 miserable people on earth ; having no garments except a piece of the 
 bark of a tree tied like a girdle round the waist ; no houses or coverings, 
 but the heavens ; no sheep, poultry, or fruits ; their food being a small 
 sort of fish, brought in with every tide, and left in stone weirs, which are 
 erected on the shore at low water-mark for that purpose ; and they have 
 Rometimes a few cockles, muscles, and periwinkles ; whatever they catch 
 is equally divided, and if their supply fails, they are in danger of starving ; 
 but this, through the care of Providence, seldom happens. These people 
 are tall, thin, and strong limbed, with large heads, bushy eye-brows, broad 
 flat noses, thick lips, wide mouths, short black curled hair, and complex- 
 ion as dark as the negroes of Africa ; and like them also have no beards. 
 Their features are disagreeable, and it is remarkable that the two fore- 
 teeth of the upper jaw arc wanting both in men and women ; but whether 
 these were taken out by way of ornament, or whether it was a natural 
 defect, Mr. Dampier does not pretend to be certain. There appeared to 
 be no marriages or other particular connexions between the men and 
 women, but they lived together in a promiscuous manner. Neither was 
 it observed that they had any form of government, or practised any kind 
 of religious ceremonies. Their only weapons were wooden swords, and 
 wooden lances formed of a straight pole, made sharp and hardened at the 
 end. Their language is entirely guttural, and none of the ship's compa- 
 ny could even guess at the meaning of a single word they uttered. The 
 flies here were so extremely troublesome they were apt to get into the 
 eyes, nose, or mouth, for which reason the natives commonly kept fheir eyes 
 half shut, and are obliged, when they look at anything, to hold their hands 
 before their eyes, as a person does when he attempts to look at the sun. 
 
 The first appearance of the ship's crew upon the coast terribly alarm- 
 ed these poor people ; but their fears subsided on finding that they had no 
 intention to hurt them. Some of the sailors gave them clothes, with a 
 view to prevail upon them to assist in carrying water to their canoes, but 
 they could by no means make themselves understood, and the natives 
 having examined their clothes with seeming amazement, grinned at each 
 other like monkeys, and laid them down on the ground. Dampier was 
 threatened to be put on shore at this inhospitable place, for endeavouring 
 to persuade some of the men to leave the ship, and go to some English 
 fcictor)'' ; a design which he had long harboured, but now gave over all 
 thoughts of, till some convenient opportunity should present itself. They 
 left the coast of New Holland on the 12th of March, taking their course 
 north ; on the 28t.h fell in with a small island covered v/ith wood, in 10 
 degrees 30 minutes south latitude, where they caught a number of boo- 
 bies and land crabs, and took in fresh water. On the r2th of April, came 
 to the Island of Triest, which is about a mile in circumference, and so 
 very low, that the tide at flood flows quite over it ; but, nevertheless, it 
 bears great plenty of cocoa nuts, with which they supplied themselves, 
 and caught a quantity of fish and two young alligators. Leaving this 
 island on the 18th, on the 29th saw a pioa at anchor, with four men in 
 her, whom Captain Read very inhumanly detained prisoners, after having 
 seized the cargo, which consisted of oil and cocoa nuts, and sunk the 
 vessel, which was done to prevent Mr. Dampier and others, whom they 
 euepected, from ijiaking their escape. 
 
 On the 4th of May they had sight of the Nicobar islands, which lie 
 forty leag'acs north-west of the Island of Sumatra. The chief commo- 
 dities of these islands are ambergris and fruit, which the natives carry in 
 proas on board such ships as come into the road. They came to an an 
 
WiLLAtM DAMPIHR. ^t 
 
 chor in eight falhom '^ater on the 6th, at the west side of the Island of 
 Nicobar, properly so called, and which gives name to the others. It lies 
 in 7 degrees 30 minutt-s north latitude, is twelve leagues in length and 
 three or four broad. It forms a beautiful landscape vvhen seen from the 
 sea ; the soil fertile and well watered. Many sorts of trees flourish herf^, 
 among which are cocoas and mallories, the latter being a fruit of a light 
 green colour, with a tough, smooth rind ; it eats like an apple, and is 
 about ihe size of the bread fruit. The natives are tall and well propor- 
 tioned, with black eyes, handsome noses, long faces, lank black hair, and 
 a deep copper-colour complexion. The women have no hair on their eye- 
 brows, which it is imagined they pluck off to increase their beauty ; their 
 only dress is a short petticoat, which reaches no lower than the knees, 
 and the men have only a piece of cloth wrapped round the waist, and 
 swathed two or three times about the thigh. Their houses consist only 
 of one room, which is about eight feet high from the ground, being raised 
 upon posts, and covered with palmetto leaves. Their language was alto- 
 gether unintelligible, nor could any one discover any sort of religion 
 among them, nor any kind of settled government, every one appearing 
 on ail equal footing. They live in houses scattered about the island, sel- 
 dom more than four or live being found together. They have neither 
 rice, yams, nor potatoes, but plantains in a moderate quantity, and some 
 cocks, hens, and small hogs. Their canoes, or proas, will contain twenty 
 or thirty men ; they sit upon benches made of split bamboo, and row in 
 the same manner that the watermen on the Thames do the wherries. 
 
 At this place Captain Read ordered the men to heel the ship, in order 
 to clean her ; he also took in a fresh supply of water. Here Mr. Dam- 
 pier obtained leave of Captain Read to go on shore with his chest and 
 bedding, being resolved to leave so wicked a crew ; and two other persons, 
 named Ambrose and Hall, followed his example. Mr. Coppinge, their 
 surgeon, was very desirous of bearing them company, but was detained 
 by force. There were but two houses at the place where they landed, 
 the master of one of which invited Mr. Dampier, by signs, to enter, inti- 
 mating that he would be exposed to danger, from tlie wild beasts of the 
 woods, during the darkness of the night. The four men that had been 
 taken in the proa off Sumatra, and the pilot they brought from Pulo 
 Condorc, were also left upon this island. The latter, who was a Porlu- 
 
 fucse, proved a useful member of the community, as he understood the 
 ndian and Malay tongues. Captiin Read got under sail about twelve 
 o'clock at night, after which, Dampier and his friends laid down to sleep, 
 which they were afraid to do before, lest the captain should have repented 
 liaving given thorn liberty, and sent some of his people to force them on 
 board again; and perhaps he would scarcely have permitted them to go 
 on shore, had he imagined they could have got off the itiiand, as they 
 afterward did. 
 
 D;impier was visited by his friendly host early in the morning, together 
 with four or five friends, who brought with them a large calabash filled 
 with toddy. The Indian seemed surprised at first to see the number of 
 his guests so mech increased, but he soon appeared well satisfied, and sold 
 them a proa for an axe, v/hich one of the sailors, knowing it to bo a valu- 
 able commodity among the Indians, had stolen and brought away from 
 the ship. This skiff was about the size of a wherry, but they had no 
 sooner got on board with all their effects, than she overset, and it cost 
 three days' time to dry their papers, clothes, and other goods. 
 
 At length, with the assistance of the Achin sailors, ihcy set the ve5&«.' 
 
to rights, fitted her out with a good mast and balance-logs, or dut-rig.* 
 gers ; after which they steered for the east side of the island, being fol- 
 lowed by the inhabitants in eight or ten canoes, whom Mr. Hall frightened 
 away by tiring a gun over their heads, being apprehensiA'e that such a 
 laige company would enhance the price of provisions. This inconside- 
 rate action had like to have been productive of ill consequences, for their 
 itiost useful hands, the Achin men, were sd frightened, that they leaped 
 out of the canoe, and it was some time before they could be convinced 
 that no injury was intended them. It also intimidated the inhabilantsj 
 vVho, till then, had biiought them provisions, which they used to purchase 
 for old rags and small pieces of cloth. After this, the inhabitants ap- 
 peared in great numbers everywhere to oppose their landing ; however, in 
 a day or two, Dampier and Hall leaped on shore in sight of a great many, 
 with whom they soon made peace by shaking hands, upon which they 
 Were supplied with provisions in the same abundance as before. Their 
 provisions consisted of mallcJries, the pulp bf which, being separated from 
 the rind and the core, and pres.$ed together, will keep six or seven days • 
 some cocoas, and a few hens. These, with twelve large cocoa nut shells, 
 and two or three bamboos, all which contained about eight gallons of 
 Water, were their only sea store, with which they left the Island of Nicobar 
 bn the 15th of May, 1688, and directed their course toward Achin. 
 
 After being three days at sea, they observed the sky beginning to be 
 cloudy ; also a halo, or bright circle, encompassing the sun, an infaUible 
 prognostic of bad weather ; accordingly, they were attacked by so dread- 
 ful a storm, that they expected every moment to be swallowed by the 
 eea ; but the next day, after such a tempest of wind, thunderj lightning-, 
 and rain as it was astonishing their vessel could outlive, they were agreea- 
 bly surprised to h.oar one of their Achin sailors call out Pulo-way, (thai 
 is, the Island of Way,) which is situated near the north-west end of Suma- 
 tra. After some hours they discovered that what they had taken for the 
 Island of Way was the golden mountain of Sumatra. 
 
 The next day they anchored near the mouth of the River PassangC 
 tonca, in the Island of Sumatra, thirly-six leagues from Achin : and as 
 they were half dead with the fatigues of the voyage, they were carried 
 to a small fishing town near the river, and entertained With great kind- 
 ness by the inhabitants. The news of their arrival being carried to seve- 
 ral of the Oramkis, Or noblemen, they came to see them ; and having 
 heard their adventures, ordered a house to be provided, and sent them 
 plenty of rice, fish, eggs, fowlsj plantains, and cocoas. They remained 
 here till June, but recovered their health very slowly : Ihey then deter- 
 mined to proceed to Achin, where there is an English factory ; for which 
 purpose they embarked on board a proa, which in three days carried theni 
 safe to that place. Here they were received with great friendship, and 
 treated with great hospitality, by Mr. Dennis Driscolj an Iri.shman, in the 
 service of the East India companyj who acted as interpreter between 
 them and the chief-magistrate, who is called the Sabandar. At this place 
 t)ampier commenced an acquaintance with Captain Bowrey, who wanted 
 him to make a voyage tt) Persia as boatswain; but his ill state of health 
 would not permit hini to accept the offer. Mr. Ambrose and Mr. Hall 
 fentered on board BowrCy's ship ; and when Dampier had recovered his 
 health, he engaged with one Captain Weldon, with whom he remained 
 fifteen months, and made several trading voyages ; after which he entered 
 as guimer to the English factory at Bencoolen, in which station he con- 
 tinued five monthsj but disliking the governor of the fort, then quitted it. 
 
WILLIAM DAMPIER. 89 
 
 He remained upon this coast till the year 1691, and then embarked on 
 board the Defence, Captain Heath, which lay in the road of Bencoolen. 
 As the governor had given him permission to depart, but afterward re- 
 voked it, he was obliged to make his escape by creeping through one of 
 the port-holes of the fort, but carried oflf his most valuable papers, and 
 in particular his journal. He got on board the 2d of January, 1691, and 
 they sailed on the 25th, but had not been many days at sea before a fatal 
 •distemper raged on board, by which they lost about thirty men. They 
 reached the cape in the beginning of April, when the sick went on 
 shore, and were supplied with mutton, beef, and other refreshments. 
 Going on shore at the Cape of Good Hope, he took with him an extra- 
 ordinary person, called the painted prince, whose name was Joelly, and 
 who, together with his mother, had been purchased by one Mr. Moody, 
 at Mindanao, who afterward went with Mr. Dampier to Bencoolen, and, 
 at parting, gave him the half share of the painted prince and his mother, 
 and left them in his custody. 
 
 These people were born on the Island of Meangis, which abounds in 
 gold, cloves, and nutmegs. The prince was curiously painted, after the 
 manner of flower-work, on the breastj on his back, between his shoul- 
 ders, and on the fore-part of his thighs. According to what our author 
 could learn, this painting was performed by pricking the skin, and rub- 
 bing on it the gum of a tree called damurer, which is used instead of 
 pitch in some parts of the Indies. He told Dampier that the people of 
 his country fed on fowl, fish, and potatoes, and wore golden ear-rings, 
 and bracelets about their arms and legs. As to his being made captive, 
 he said that, as one day he, his father, and mother were going in a canoe 
 to one of the adjacent islands, they were taken by some fishermen of 
 Mindanao, who sold them all to the interpreter of Raja Laut, with whom 
 he and his mother lived as slaves five years ; and were then sold to Mr. 
 Moody for sixty dollars. After a while Mr. Moody gave his other share 
 of these people to Dampier, who tells us that the mother soon died, and 
 it was not without difficulty he was able to preserve the life of the son ; 
 whose history we may as well conclude here, by observing that Mr. 
 Dampier, after his arrival in the Thames, being in want of money, sold 
 a part of his property in him at first, and afterward the whole ; from 
 which time the poor Indian was carried from place to place, and shown 
 for money, till at length he died of the small-pox at Oxford. 
 
 Having remained six weeks at the Cape of Good Hope, Captain Heath 
 sailed on the 23d of May, and arrived at St. Helena on the 20th of June. 
 They left this island on the 2d of July, in company with other ships 
 bound for England, and on the 16th of September, 1691, anchored in 
 the Downs?, where they found several English and Dutch ships preparing 
 to cruise against the French, with whom they were then at war : and 
 our adventurers thought themselves very happy they did not fall into the 
 hands of their enemies. 
 
 The publication of the above voyage round the world having recom- 
 mended Dampier to the notice of persons of the first eminence, he was 
 afterward employed by government in discoveries both in the eastern and 
 southern seas. His first expedition was to the coast of New Holland, 
 which could have no other object but discovery in view. He sailed from 
 the Downs on January 11, 1698, in his majesty's ship the Roebuck, car- 
 rying only twelve guns and fifty men, and having twenty months' provi- 
 sion on board. On the 1st of August they fell in with the western coast 
 of New Holland, ia latitude 26 degrees south, where, however, they 
 
 8* 
 
90 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 found nothing very different from what Dampier had before described 
 The only land animals they sav/ wjcre a small sort of racoons, different 
 from those of the West Indies chiefly in their legs, which are short be- 
 fore, and on which they run jumping ; and a sort of guanoes, or lizards, 
 peculiar to the country, which appear to hdve two heads, but in reality 
 have but one, and no tail ; and what is no less remarkable, their font 
 legs appear to be all fore-legs, so formed that the creature may walk 
 either way. To these may now be added the kangaroo, a quadruped of 
 a particular shape, as large as a sheep, and a creature of the opossum 
 kind, with dogs and wolves ; of the latter sort some were seen by Dam- 
 pier's men, but so lean that they were nothing but skin and bone. In 
 latitude 23 degrees south, they saw dolphins and small whales, and abun- 
 dance of scuttle shells, swimming in the sea. They were much distress- 
 ed for water here. Being ashore employed in digging a well, Dampier 
 was assaulted by ten or twelve of the natives, with whom he had a skir- 
 mish, and was forced to shoot one dead, to disengage a young man who 
 was surrounded by three of them, and wounded in the cheek with a lance. 
 On a gun being (ired over the heads of the assailants, though it star- 
 tled them at tirst, they soon recovered their surprise, and continued their 
 hostilities ; but, as soon as they saw a man fall, were terribly frightened, 
 and fled witii precipitation. Dampier very humanely adds, that he tres- 
 passed on the natives no farther, being very sorry for what had happened.' 
 
 Our voyager not being able either to find fresh water or a harbour to 
 careen his ship, set sail from this miserable country about the beginning 
 of September, 1699 ; and, directing his course to the Island of Timor, 
 arrived there September 15, and received a supply of water and provi- 
 sions from the chief of the Dutch factory there. 
 
 In his return, he touched again at Timor, and from thence sailed to 
 Batavia ; where, having careened his ship and supplied himself with 
 necessaries of every kind, on the 17ih of October, 1700, he set sail foi 
 the Cape of Good Hope ; from thence continuing his voyage to St. He- 
 lena, he arrived at that island January 31, 1701 ; but, in his course 
 home, his ship sprung a leak at sea, and, after endeavouring in vain to 
 stop it, he was obliged to run her aground on the Island of Ascension ; 
 where, having landed his men, and taken from on board all necessary 
 provisions, they in a short time discovered a fine spring of water, and_ 
 lived tolerably, till ihey were at last relieved by some English men-of- 
 war, v.'ho were convoying home the Canterbury Indiaman, and brought 
 them all safe to England. 
 
 In 1703, notwiihstanding the bad success of the voyage just mentioned, 
 Dampier was again employed in an expedition to the South Sea, in con- 
 junction with Captain Pulling, who had each a ship of twenty-six guns 
 and 120 men under his command. That commanded by Captain Dam- 
 pier was called the St. George ; and that by Captain Pulling, the Fame. 
 They were victualled for nine months, and had commissions from his 
 Royal Highness Prince George of Denmark, then lord-high-admiral, to 
 proceed in a warlike manner against the French and Spaniards ; and 
 both were upon the same terms of no prizes no pay. But while in the 
 Downs, some difference having arisen between the two captains, Pulling 
 get sail alone, and left Dampier to take his own course ; who, stopping 
 some time in Ireland, was joined by the Cinque Ports galley of ninety 
 tons, sixteen guns, and sixty-three men, Captain Charles Pickering com- 
 mander. In this expedition, Dampier had three grand objects in view : 
 the first was, to sail to Buenos x\yre3 in order to surprise the Spanish 
 
WILLIAM DAMPIER 91 
 
 galleons that usually take in their lading at that port ; the second de- 
 pended on missing the first, in which case they were to pass through the 
 straits of Mageljan to cruise upon the coasts of Peru, for the Baldivia 
 ship,s that carry gold to Lima ; and the third, if both the former mis- 
 carried, was to proceed to the coast of Mexico, to intercept the Manilla 
 ship that annually arrives at Acapulco, and is said to be worth eight or 
 nine miliions of pieces of eight, equal to a million and a half of English 
 money. 
 
 Full of these projects, they set sail from Kinsale, in Ireland, on the 
 1 Uh of September, 1703, and on the 25th arrived off Madeira, where 
 they learned that the galleons were sailed from Buenos Ayres, and then 
 lay at Teneriff. The first project being thus defeated, they proceeded to 
 put the second in execution with all possible despatch. On the 24th of 
 JVovember they anchored on the Island of Le Grand, on the coast of 
 Brazil, where they buried Captain Pickeruig, and chose Lieutenant 
 Straddling in his room. From this island they sailed on the 8th of Decem- 
 ber ; and doubling Cape Horn on the 20ih of January, changed their 
 direction, sailed to the northward, and on the 10th of February came to 
 an anchor in the great Bay of Juan Fernandez, where they met their con- 
 sort. Captain Stradling, with whom they had parted in passing Cape Horn 
 in a violent storm, which happened on the 26th of January. 
 
 At Juan Fernandez they continued refitting their ships till the 29th, 
 when seeing a sail, they slipped their cables and put to sea. She proved 
 to be a French ship of 400 tons, thirty guns, and full of men. The St. 
 George fought her about seven hours, when a gale springing up she 
 sheared otf. Ou this occasion the Cinque Ports behaved but indifie- 
 rcully, firing only a few guns, and lying by. Next day, in returning to 
 Juan Fernandez, they fell in with two French men-of-war, of thirty-six 
 guns each 5 frotn whom they narrowly escaped, leaving their cables, an- 
 chors, and five or six of their men beiouging to the Cinque Ports on 
 tiiat island, with a new suit of sails, and several other necessaries which 
 they could ill spare. They now proceeded upon their second enterprise ; 
 but were equally unfortunate in that as in the former. The BaldJvian 
 ships were sailed, and the gold secured. They then meditated a sur- 
 prise against the town of Santa Maria, in the Gulf of Panama, where 
 the Spaniards, getting intelligence of their designs, laid ambuscades, and 
 after killing and wounding several, put the rest to flight. 
 
 In this manner, disappointment succeeding disappoiulment, dififerences 
 began to arise between the commanders, and they concluded to part 
 company. But about this time a large ship, fortunately for them, 
 coming to an anchor in the night close by, they instantly boarded and 
 made prize of her. She was deeply laden with flour, sugar, brandy, 
 wine, about thirty tons of malraalade of quinces, a considerable quantity 
 of salt, with some tons of linen and woollen cloth. This proved a sea- 
 sonable supply ; and provisions, that were before so scarce that only five 
 green plantains were the daily allowance for six men, were now so abun- 
 dant on board the prize, that they might have laid in a slock for several 
 years ; yet, in less than six months, we find them starving. After 
 searching the prize and dividing the spoil, the captains parted ; and in 
 two or three days Dampier fell in with a Spanish man-of-war, fitted out 
 on purpose to take him. The two ships had a smart engagement, and 
 parted in the night by consent. 
 
 Soon after this engagenient, Dampier and Clippington, his first lieu 
 tenant, having some dUTerence, Clippington seized upon the ship's tender, 
 
92 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 in which were the stores and ammunition, and with twenty-one of the 
 best men weighed anchor and set sail. When he had cleared the islands, 
 he sent to invite all those who were willing to sail with him to come on 
 board ; but Dampier's last project being now on the point of being carried 
 into execution, the men who remained with him resolved to abide the 
 issue. The master of this bark, Christian Martin by name, was a Spa- 
 niard by birth, but taken prisoner while a boy, and bred up in England. 
 This man they kept prisoner on board, and now proceeded to intercept 
 the Manilla ship. 
 
 On the 6th of December, in the morning, they saw a sail, and soon 
 came up with her. She proved their last hope, the great Manilla ship, 
 from the East Indies. They instantly bore down upon her, and before 
 she could bring her guns to bear, gave her several broadsides ; and, taking 
 her unprepared, put the company on board in the utmost disorder. Cap- 
 tain Martin, though a Spaniard, advised to lay her aboard immediately, 
 before the Spaniards had recovered their surprise ; but that advice was 
 disregarded till it was too late ; for, while two parties were quarrelling 
 on board the St. George, the one for laying the enemy on board, the 
 other not, the Spaniards got out a tier of twenty-four pounders, every 
 one of which that took place was ready to send the St. George to the 
 bottom. The assailants were, therefore, soon beaten off with disgrace, 
 after having received a shot between wind and water in the powder-room, 
 by which two feet of planking was driven in on each side the stern. 
 And now, being disappointed of this their last expectation, all the men 
 grew discontented, and impatient to return home. However, they were 
 prevailed upon to cruise a few weeks longer on the coast of Mexico ; 
 and with that view passed the ports of Acapulco, Port Angels, Port 
 Guatulco, and several others ; but without meeting any prize worth wait- 
 ing for. 
 
 Ill success is generally succeeded by discontent ; the men v.'ho were 
 before impatient of fatigue without reward, grew now ungovernable. A 
 party, therefore, formed the design of returning home by way of the East 
 Indies ; and these were encouraged by Mr. Funnel, the chief-mate, who, 
 having the command of the small Spanish prize already mentioned, de- 
 termined to hazard everything to regain his native country, rather than 
 continue under the direction of a man with whom they could not agree, 
 lie therefore embraced the first opportunity to reach the Gulf of Ama- 
 palla, to water his bark, and prepare for his voyage home. 
 
 It should seem that this voyage of Darapier, though countenanced 
 with a government commission, was, notwithstanding, fitted out by private 
 adventurers ; for, on this occasion, the owners' agent is said to have 
 divided the provisions and stores between those who chose to remain 
 with Dampier, and those who determined to follow the fortune of Mr. 
 Funnel. Their whole number was already reduced to sirxty effective men, 
 thirty-three of whom chose to accompany Funnel, and twenty-seven only 
 remained with Dampier, but upon what terms they engaged, or what 
 course they pursued afterward, we are not told ; for Dampier, though he 
 returned home, never published any account of this voyage. What we 
 have related concerning it, in order to complete his adventures as far as 
 our materials extend, we have extracted from the account written by 
 Funnel ; who, having left Dampier in the Gulf of Amapalla on the 1st 
 of February, 1705, takes no farther notice of his captain; but goes on 
 with the story of his own voyage, which was indeed unfortunate enough ; 
 for his ship was siezed by the Dutch at Ambovna. the goods on board 
 
COWLEY. 9, 
 
 confiscated, and most of the men cruelly used, being confined and hal. 
 starved by the Dutch, who were jealous lest they should make discove- 
 ries prejudicial to their commerce. Funnel himself, however, soon got 
 released ; and, having made strong representations against the authors 
 of his sufferings at Amboyna, at length obtained some show of redress ; 
 with which, though not a compensation for his losses, he was forced to 
 be contented. On the 2d of November he, with two of his company, got 
 passage to Europe in the Dutch East India fleet; and, on the 15th of 
 July following, arrived safe in the Texel, from whence, after visiting the 
 principal towns in Holland, he came to England, and published the ac- 
 count just mentioned, in which he followed the example of Dampier, by 
 giving a description of the natural productions of the islands at which he 
 touched, their inhabitants, arts, and commerce. 
 
 Mr. COWLEY.— 1683-86. 
 
 Of Cowley we can find no other account than what i.s contained in 
 the voyage written by himself ; therefore, we shall, in his own words, 
 preserve such parts of that voyage as have not already been related iv 
 the voyage of Dampier ; premising only, that in his first setting out among 
 the bucaniers was in the same prize in which Dampier set sail from 
 Virginia, under the command of Captain Cook ; that he continued to 
 serve that commander, as master, during his life ; and that, after sailing 
 some time in consort with Captain Eaton in the South Seas, he chose 
 rather to serve that gentleman than to continue with his own captain's 
 successor. One remark more, and then to proceed. We find him, in 
 every collection of voyages in which he is introduced, distinguished by 
 the appellation of Captain Cowley, though the highest employment to 
 which he ever seems to have arrived was master on board the bucaniers. 
 
 We, in our ship, says Cowley, toward the middle of August, set sail 
 from the Gulf of Miguel, in the Bay of Amapalla, steering for Cape 
 St. Francisco, where we chased a ship that escaped from us ; and then 
 bore up to latitude 7 degrees south, where, finding the country alarmed, 
 we stood for Payta, in latitude 4 degrees south, where we took two ships 
 lying at anchor ; which the Spanish refusing to ransom, we, by way of 
 farewell, set them on fire. From hence we sailed for Gorgona, at which 
 island we watered our ship for the East Indies. 
 
 This island lies in latitude 3 degrees 15 minutes north, and in longi- 
 tude 305 degrees east, and as soon as we had supplied ourselves with 
 wood and water, took our departure, steering west-north-west, till we 
 came as low almost as the rocks of St. Bartholomew, in ionwitude 240 
 degrees, and then sailed into latitude 15 degrees norlh, till judging we 
 were passed those rocks, returned into 13 degrees north, which latitude 
 we held till we made the Island of Guam, in latitude 13 degrees north, 
 and in longitude 150 degrees east, according to our reckoning; at which 
 island we had a very sickly ship, no man being free from the scurvy, and 
 most of us in a weak condition. It was on the 14th of March, about 
 seven in the morning, that we saw land. At twelve o'clock we were in 
 latitude 13 degrees 2 minutes north, by observation, having made out 
 on our sailing, by judgment, 7346 miles, that is to say, departed so many 
 miles from Gorgona by loss made out in longitude, which is about 2549 
 leagues. The next day we sailed about the south-west part of the island, 
 and came to an anchor in a fair bay, from whence we sent a boat on shore, 
 
94 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 with a flag of truce ; but, on landing, our people found that the natives 
 had burnt their houses, and had fled ; however, our men felled some 
 cocoa nut trees, and brought a hundred or two on board to refresh the 
 crew. In the meantime a party of Indians rushed from behind the 
 bushes, and in a hostile manner threatened to attack us ; but we made 
 signs of friendship, and one of the Indians returned to the wood, and 
 having peeled a stick so as to make it appear white, he came forward, 
 when one of his companions, perceiving that he had no cap to compliment 
 our people, called him back, and presented him with one for that purpose. 
 
 From the 15th till the 17th we continued a free trade with the Indians ; 
 but on that day our men going over to a small island on the west side of 
 Guam, the Indians fell upon them with stones and lances, which occa- 
 sioned a fray, in which some of the Indians were killed upon the spot. 
 Two days after, the governor, who happened to be a Spaniard, came to 
 a point of land near the ship, and sent a letter written in Spanish, French, 
 and Dutch, demanding, in the name of the king, his master, who we 
 were, whither we were bound, and from whence we came 1 Ouj answer 
 was written in French, that we were employed by some gentlemen in 
 France upon the discovery of some unknown parts of the world. On 
 the return of the messenger, the governor sent a letter of invitation to 
 the captain to come on shore, with which he instantly complied, and was 
 received under a triple discharge of cannon from the fort, which was 
 answered by the same number of guns from the ship. They soon came 
 to a good understanding. Our captain made an apology for killing some 
 of the Indians in his own defence ; and the governor gave for answer, 
 j,hat, if he had killed them all, he should have esteemed the favour the 
 greater. We were afterward told that the Indians on the small island 
 were in rebellion. 
 
 On Wednesday, about twelve o'clock, a Spanish captain came onboard, 
 and continued with us till twelve the next day. He brought, as a present 
 from the governor, ten hogs, a large quantity of potatoes, plantains, 
 oranges, papas, and red pepper ; in return for which, our commander 
 sent the governor a diamond ring, and presented the officer with a rich 
 sword. While mutual civilities were passing between the governor and 
 the captain, our people went out every day, chasing the Indians, whom 
 they had full license to kill and destroy wherever they met with them ; 
 but they, finding us not to be Spaniards, became very tractable, and 
 offered to assist in supplying us with fish and fruit, which they exchanged 
 for old nails and old iron. After having tarried here some time, and a 
 free intercourse had been established between the Indians on shore and 
 our people on board the ship, the Indians made signs for as many of our 
 men as chose it, to come and see them haul the seine. Our men, not 
 suspecting apy design, manned the boat, and went to look at them ; but, 
 while the men were amusing themselves with the sport, the Indians had 
 very artfully brought their seine round the boat, with a design to draw it 
 on shore, and thereby entangle both boat and crew ; but the sailors, dis- 
 covering the plot, gave the Indians no time to carry it into execution ; 
 for, being provided with fire-arms, which they never went ashore without, 
 they fired among the thickest of the crowd, killed a great many, and 
 drove the rest away. These Indians are large in stature, some being six 
 feet and a half high ; they go stark naked ; never bury their dead, but let 
 them lie in the sun to rot. They have no arms but slings and lances ; 
 the sharp ends of the latter are pointed with dead men's bones, which, 
 being cut like scoops, and jagged at the edges like unto saws, if a man 
 
COWLEY. 95 
 
 happens to be wounded by them, and is not cured in nine days, he cer- 
 tai»ly dies. Our people took four of these treacherous savages prisoners, 
 bound them, and brought them on bo:ird ; but they had not been long 
 among us, before three of them leaped into the sea, and, with their hands 
 tied beiiind them, swam away like fishes. The Spanish governor's kind- 
 ness increased in proportion to the mischief done to the Indians. He 
 sent us, the succeeding day, by one of his captains, thirty hogs, some 
 melons, pumpions, potatoes, fruits, and rice, and received in return si.^ 
 small patararoes. Having now rigged anew our ship, and supplied our- 
 selves with wood and water, we began to prepare for our departure. 
 
 On the 1st of April weighed anchor, and next day came abreast of the 
 fort, which we saluted with three guns, and were complimented with the 
 same number ; and, on the 3d, the governor sent his last present to our 
 captain. On the 4th set sail, and steered W. by S. till we arrived at the 
 height of St. Bartholomew, then shaped our course W. N. W. till in the 
 latitude of 20 degrees 30 minutes north, when we fell in with a cluster 
 of islands, lying to the north of Luconia, distant from Guam 560 leagues. 
 They seemed to be uninhabited ; but the men who went on shore in the 
 boat, found abundance of nutmegs on one of the clusters, and saw 
 some goats. 
 
 From these islands we steered S. W. for the island of Luconia, and 
 on the 25th of April, Cape Bajadore bore from us east ; after which we 
 came up with Cape Mindato, where the S. W. monsoon overtaking us, 
 we were obliged to bear away for Canton, in Ciiina, where we lay and 
 refitted our ship, and where we might have laden ourselves with plunder 
 from thirteen Tartar ships, which came thither full of the richest goods of 
 China ; but our men, being under no government, refused to attack 
 them ; saying, they came fjr gold and silver, not to be made pedlers 
 to carry packs. 
 
 From Canton we sailed for Manilla, to wait for the Tarler ship that 
 annually goes thither, and which we were informed was laden one-half 
 with silver ; but, though we were fortunate enough to come in sight of 
 her, she out-sailed us, and escaped. We then bore away for an island 
 that lies to the .north of Luconia, intending there to stay till the wind 
 came fair to carry us to Bantam, not then knowing that Bantam had been 
 taken from the English by the Dutch. At this island we stored ourselves 
 with fruit, goats, and guanoes ; which last are here good meat : here 
 was found an Indian, who directed us to an island containing plenty of 
 great cattle ; but the wind soon coming fair, we made sail to the south- 
 ward, steering our course S. S. W. till in latitude 10 degrees N., where 
 we were so entangled among the islands of Paragn, that none ever ex- 
 pected to escape with life. After three days, however, we very provi- 
 dentially got clear, and stood in for an island at the north end of Borneo, 
 where we hauled our ship on sliore, and erected a tent, planting a bat- 
 tery of ten guns for defence, in case of an attack from the natives. Here, 
 unloading the ship, and having provided sufHcIently for our security, we 
 ranged the country for natives to trade with us ; but they, having never 
 seen any white men b.^fore, proved very shy ; and when^ by chance, our 
 men fell in with one of their canoes, filled vvith women, among whom was 
 the queen of the country and her retinue ; on the approach of our ship's 
 boat, they all leaped over-board ; but, after taking them up, and treating 
 them kindly, they laid aside their fears, and grew familiar ; and, upon 
 our offering them civility, instead of avoiding, they soon became fond of 
 us. They brought fish in great plenty, with oranges, lemons, mangoes. 
 
96 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 plantains, and pine apples ; and, besides these, we exchanged some trifles 
 for bezoar, musk, and civet, with which the island is well stored. 
 
 The year was now drawing to a close, when we set sail from this little 
 island, steering a course for Timor, where, finding the ship's compan)' 
 begin to grow mutinous, and not under command of the captain, myself, 
 Mr. Hill, and eighteen more, joined our forces together, and purchased a 
 large boat, in which we sailed to the Island of Java, distant from Timor 
 300 leagues. The wind being contrary for Batavia, we bore away for 
 Cheribon, a factory belonging to the Dutch, lying eastward of Batavia, 
 where we were kindly received by the governor. There we heard that 
 King Charles of England was dead, and that his brother James was 
 proclaimed king ; we heard also that Bantam had been taken from the 
 English, and that the Dutch had erected a new factory on that island. 
 
 After refreshing at Cheribon, we agreed to divide our twenty men into 
 three parties ; two of which chose to sail for the Bay of Bengal, and the 
 third to stay with me ; but knowing that Batavia was the Hollanders' 
 magazine for India, we proposed first to sail thither, and there to provide 
 each for himself as well as he could. Having arrived, we were courte- 
 ously received by the general ; and T, with Mr. Hill and another friend, 
 all my party, were promised our passage to Europe in their East India 
 fleet. About this time the general was sending four or five ships-of-war, 
 with soldiers, to procure satisfaction from the king of the island for an 
 outrage that had been committed on a party of Hollanders, who, to the 
 number of eighty, had been slaughtered by the Javanese. These ships, 
 it seems, were originally designed against Sillebar, an English settlement 
 on the west coast of Sumatra : but this act of hostility happening to in- 
 tervene, it had diverted their purpose, and saved the factory for this time. 
 There were now in Batavia twenty of us, who, on hearing this news, 
 would willingly have repaired to Sillebar ; but the Dutch would by no 
 means permit it, though we had bought a sloop for that purpose. 
 
 This project failing, Mr. Hill, another friend, and I, embarked on board 
 the Solida Indiamen, bound to Holland ; and when leaving the road, saw 
 our ship, Captain John Eaton, coming in ; however, we held our course ; 
 but finding the wind unfavourable, turned down to Bantam to take in 
 provisions, and thence steered to Prince's Island, where we lay for a fair 
 wind three weeks. About the end of March, set sail again with the 
 wind at N. W., and shaped our course to the Cape of Good Hope. On 
 the 11th of May, after a pleasant passage, made the land called Point 
 Primicra, bearing N. W. distant 12 leagues. We had the wind at N. E., 
 being distant from the cape 560 miles, the land tending away S. W. by 
 W. The fish which came about the ship near the Island of Mona, the 
 30th of March, left us now, when we judged ourselves in latitude 32 
 degrees 47 minutes south. From the 15th of May to the 29th, we had 
 sailed only 96 miles ; but observing next day, found by the latitude that 
 we had a very strong current, that had driven the ship to the southward 
 34 miles farther than by the reckoning ; for we thought we had been 
 in the latitude of 33 degrees 41 minutes south, whereas we found our- 
 selves in latitude 34 degrees 15 minutes south, the course having been 
 S. W. 40 miles. I argued the reason with the chief-mate of the ship, and 
 he told me it once happened in this place that they lay-to with three 
 main-sails, and the wind at W. S. W., three days ; and when they took 
 their observation, found their ship driven to windward 200 English miles ; 
 and likewise in latitude 36 degrees 37 minutes, it is said, often find the 
 ame curious occurence. 
 
COWLEY. 97 
 
 % 
 
 From henfce to the 27th nothing remarkable happened ; but on that 
 Jay the wind blew a furious storm from W. S. W. We lay-to with main- 
 sails, and found we were in latitude 30 degrees 3 minutes S., coming in 
 with the land ; and now the current went to the eastward, so that we began 
 to fear losing our passage by the cape. The captain, who had long been 
 sick, was now judged to be past recovery, and in the middle of the night 
 died : this occasioned a great deal of confusion, and to add to our diffi- 
 culties, water began to fail, and we were reduced to a pint a day per man. 
 
 On the 1st of Juno again came in sight of land. It appeared like a 
 round hill, flat at top, and bore from us N. N. E., with a smaller hill to 
 the eastward. Next day we were before the harbour o{ the cape, with 
 the wind at north, and fine fair weather. On the third, at night, came to 
 an anchor in the bay before the castle, in nine fathoms water. This day 
 four of the natives came down to the city, dancing naked, and offering 
 their wives to the Hollanders for little bits of tobacco. They were the 
 filthiest men I ever saw. Next day my two friends and I walked about 
 the town, in which are about 100 houses, built very low, to save them 
 from the boisterous gales of wind that blow here in the months of Decem- 
 ber, January, and February : but the Dutch have here a strong castle, 
 with eighty guns well mounted, and a spacious garden, with pleasant 
 walks, and planted with almost every kind of fruit, flowers, and herbs. 
 This is the greatest rarity that we saw at the cape. We walked, more- 
 over, without the town to the village inhabited by Hottentots, so called by 
 the Hollanders, who are the natives of the country. These people are 
 said to be born white, but make themselves black by anointing their bodies, 
 and exposing their infants to the sun and smoke. Their houses, or huts, 
 are built in a circular form, with the fire-place in the middle, round which 
 they all lie in common, covered only with the skins of some beasts, and 
 without any other bed than the ashes of the wood on which they dress 
 their meat. They eat anything that is foul, and will gather from the 
 dvmghills the offal that is thrown out by the Dutch to feed their dogs. 
 Their men are not at all jealous of foreigners ; but will beat their 
 wives unmercifully for adultery with their neighbours. When the women 
 marry, they cut off a joint of the middle finger ; and if the husband dies, 
 and the widow marries again, she cuts off another joint ; and so many 
 men as they marry, so many joints of their fingers they lose. They are 
 supposed to worship the moon, because at the full and change they as- 
 semble in great numbers, dancing and rejoicing when she shines, but 
 howling and lamenting when they are deprived of her light. 
 
 It happened, while we were at the cape, that one of the Hottentots 
 drank himself dead at the fort, of which his countrymen, getting intelli- 
 gence, assembled about him, and with oil and milk endeavoured to reco- 
 ver the defunct ; but finding all their efforts vain, and that they could 
 perceive no spark of life remaining, began to make preparations for his 
 funeral, which was performed in the following manner. They first brought 
 knives, and shaved him from head to foot ; then, digging a hole in the 
 ground, carefully placed him in a sitting posture, with his body and head 
 erect, and his legs and thighs stretched out horizontally, and pressed down 
 straight ; this being performed, they propped him up in this attitude with 
 stones ; and then came a company of their women to howl over the body, 
 who accompanied their lamentations with a hideous shrieking, as if death 
 appeared before them in the shape of a monster, and was ready to devoui 
 them. After their time of mourning was over, they filled up the hole 
 with curth, and covered it over with the green turf. We were now tliree 
 
 
 
08 VOYAGES ROtTND THE WORLD. 
 
 ships in company, to sail for Europe, the Sohda and Critsman, which came 
 together from Batavia, and the Emeland, which came from Bengal. On 
 Tuesday, ihe iGtii, pursued our course to the N.W. and N. W. by W. 
 till Tuesday, the 29th, without any material incident intervening. 
 
 On the 12th of July, came off the Island of Ascension, and next day 
 took a new departure from thence. On the 20tb, found we were in lati- 
 tude 15 degrees north. Wednesday the 22d, made the longitude from the 
 cape 1 1 degrees 56 minutes, judging ourselves to be in longitude 355 
 degrees 56 minutes. And now it was that I cut the same line which I 
 did when I departed from Virginia in the year 1683, having encompassed 
 the globe ; and cannot but note, that I have been farther southward than 
 any man that I ever heard or read of before me, in this voyage ; having, 
 as I have already said, reached as far as latitude 60 degrees 30 minutes 
 south ; and so it happened, that, being bound to go north about Scotland to 
 make Holland, I passed about 60 degrees north, though I mention this as 
 no extraordinary thing. "We met with no particular occurrence till the 
 2d of August, when our captain, after three days' illness, died of a pain 
 m his bowels. His chief steersman was made commander in his room ; 
 but, though his cause was warmly espoused by the men on a former oc- 
 casion, yet it was not till after much opposition that they acquiesced in 
 his present advancement. 
 
 On Sunday, the 19th, when the weather began to clear up, I saw land, 
 as did also two men more. I supposed it to be the Island of Shetland ; 
 but our captain would not believe it ; however, about six in the evening, 
 the Critsman's people saw land also. We came up with the Isle of Far- 
 ley by the 22d, steered on, and on the 25th had the wind all round the 
 compass. Next day, with the wind at E. S. E., we found ourselves in 
 latitude 53 degrees 35 minutes north, and I judged us to be on the West- 
 bank. On Tuesday, the 28th, came before the Maes, with the wind at 
 E. N. E. When it was day we saw the Brill church, and came to an an- 
 chor in ten ftithoms water. Next day we entered the harbour at Helvoet- 
 sluys, after having been seven months in our passage from Batavia. 
 
 CAPTAIN WOODES ROGERS.— 1708-11. 
 
 There are few voyages which have been undertaken with equal pru* 
 dence, or for which such careful and ample preparations have been made» 
 as for the followmg, which was in a great measure owing to the spirit of 
 the gentlemen of Bristol, at whose expense, and for whose emolument, 
 the undertaking was set on foot. The first care of the gentlemen con- 
 corned was, to make a proper choice of officers, in which they were ex- 
 tremely fortunate. Captain Woodes Rogers, who commanded in chief, 
 was a bold, active, indefatigable officer; and was chosen by the proprie- 
 tors for the peculiar art he had. of maintaining his authority over the 
 sailors, and his readiness in finding out expedients in the most difficult 
 conjunctures. Captain Stephen Courtney was a man of birth, fortune, 
 and many amiable qualities, and had contributed largely to the expense 
 of the voyage. Mr. Thomas Dover, third in command, was also a pro- 
 prietor ; he was by profession a physician, and the same who afterward 
 made a considerable noise in the world, by recommending the use of crude 
 mercury ; he was a man of a rough temper, and not easily pleased ; but as 
 he had not the chief command, this was of the less consequence. 'Mr. Ed- 
 ward Cooke, who had been twice taken by the French, was second captain 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 99 
 
 to Mr. Courtney, and the chief pilot was Captain William Dampier, whose 
 name was sufficiently terrible to the Spaniards in the South Seas. 
 
 They sailed from King-road, Bristol, on the 1st of August, 1708, their 
 force consisting of the Duke, a ship of 300 tons burthen, thirty guns, and 
 170 men, commanded by Captain Woodes Rogers ; and the Duchess, 
 of 270 tons, twenty-six guns, and 151 men, under the command of Cap- 
 tain Stephen Courtney ; both ships having legal commissions from his 
 royal highness. Prince George of Denmark, lord-high-admiral of England, 
 to cruise on the coasts of Peru and Mexico, in the South Seas, against 
 her majesty's enemies, the French and Spaniards ; and to act jointly, as . 
 belonging to the same owners, the merchants of Bristol. 
 
 On the 5th of August, saw the Irish shore, and came to an anchor m 
 sight of Kinsale, where a pilot came on board the Duke, and undertook 
 to steer her into the cove of Cork. Instead of which, on the morning of 
 the 6th, while it was yet dark, and the weather foggy, he would have 
 carried her into a bay to the westward of Cork, had not Captain Rogers, 
 who happened to be well acquainted with the coast, prevented him, and 
 brought her into the cove himself, where she came to an anchor the 
 same day. While in this harbour, they took in a good quantity of provi- 
 sions, and enlisted a number of seamen, in the room of about forty fellows, 
 some of whom ran away, and others were discharged as unfit for the ser- 
 vice. The compliment was now 333, among whom above a third of the 
 number were foreigners of various nations ; there was one negro and 
 ten boys ; and of the English and Irish, a great many were tinkers, tai- 
 lors, haymakers, pedlers, and fiddlers. With this mixed crew they sailed 
 from Cork on the 1st of September, in company with the Hastings man- 
 of-war, which sailed with them till the 6lh, when Captain Paul, who 
 commanded her, supplied them with several necessaries which they had 
 omitted to bring with them, nor would he accept of any return ; where- 
 upon they gave him a letter to Alderman Batchelor and the rest of the 
 proprietors at Bristol. 
 
 About si.K o'clock, on the morning of thfe 10th, discovered a sail, to 
 which they immediately gave chase, and came up with her about three in 
 the afternoon, when she bore down, showing Swedish colours. They 
 fired at her twice, after which she brought-to ; they suspected, from some 
 expressions uttered by two or three of her hands, whom ihey found drunk, 
 that she had contraband goods on board ; but finding, after a strict exa- 
 mination of the master and several of his men, that it would be difficult 
 to prove her a prize, and being unwilling to lose time by carrying her into 
 port, thoy lot her depart without farther detention. The master appeared 
 to be very thankful tluit he was detained so short a time, and at his de- 
 parture, presented Captain Rogers with some dried beef and two hams ; 
 in return for which he received a dozen bottles of redstreak cider. She 
 was a ship belonging to Stadt. of 270 tons burthen, and twenty-two guns, 
 and had sailed round Scotland and Ireland. On her leaving the Duke 
 and Duchess, she saluted them with four gUns. 
 
 During the time the sh'p was in custody, a de.^ign had been privately 
 fonned on board the Duke, by four inferior officers, to make a prize of 
 her ; and when they found she was given up, they began to mutiny ; but 
 Gyles Cash, the boatswain, being displaced and, with ten others, put in 
 irons, and a severe whipping given to some of the principal leaders of the 
 disturbance, all was quiet again, and things began once more to m.ove in 
 their proper channel. A like inclination had appeared among the hands 
 on board the Duchess, but when those on board the other ship were 
 
100 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 brought to obedience, it subsided. After this, however, they had some 
 trouble with these mutineers. On the 14th of September, some of the 
 ship's company, headed by a bold daring fellow, came up to Captain Ro- 
 gers at the steerage-door, and demanded the discarded boatswain out. of 
 irons. The captain gave them good words, and having taken the ring- 
 leader aside, as if to speak privately with him on the quarter-deck, had 
 him suddenly seized by the help of the ofticers, and lashed by one of his 
 own followers. The next day he sent the boatswain, in irons, on board 
 the Crown tzalloy, of Biddeford, which had kept them company since the 
 6ih instant, auJ left them on the 15th. On the I6lh the captain dis- 
 charged the prisoners out of irons, on their acknowledging their sorrow 
 for what was past, a>id promising better behaviour for the time to come. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 17th, gained sight of the peak of Teneritf, and 
 the next day took a Spanish bark of twenty-five tons, bound from Orata- 
 via to Faerteventura, with forty-five passengers, men and women, on 
 board, among whom was a priest. On the 19th, bore away for Oratavia 
 road, and sent the aiaster of the Spanish vessel on shore with the priest, 
 to agree about her ransom, and to get wine, provisions, and other neces- 
 saries for both ships. They were accompanied by Mr. Carlton Van- 
 burgh, who went on this errand contrary to the opinion and inclination 
 of Captain Rogers. Soon afterward a boat came from the town with a 
 letter directed to the Captains Rogers and Courtney, expostulating with 
 them for making prize of the bark, and alleging that iVlr. Vanburgh should 
 be detained till she was restored, to keep which wa.s not only against a 
 private contract entered into between Spain and England, relative to the 
 Canaries, but would be of the utmost detriment, as well to the trading 
 subjects of both crowns, as to several English merchants residing ou 
 these islands ; of whom a tenfold satisl'action would be exacted. This 
 letter was signed by John Poulden, vice-consul, and three merchants, 
 Bernard Walsh, John Crosse, and George Fitzgerald. 
 
 The captains agreed on answermg this letter, to this effect ; that in 
 Keeping the bark they acted up to their instructions ; that they knew no- 
 thing of any private articles in favour of the ships of these islands ; that 
 in case Mr. Vanburgh was not restored, they would carry away all the 
 prisoners they had ; and if they apprehended any detriment to the fac- 
 tory, they might ransom the bark, and seek their redress in England, 
 Tliey desired despatch, there being no time to lose ; and said, that upon 
 sending back Mr. Vanburgh, they would release their prisoners. At 
 length, after other letters had passed between them, Mr. Crosse, one of 
 the English merchants who had signed the above-mentioned letters, 
 came off in a boat on the 22d, bringing v/ith him Mr. Vanburgh, to- 
 gether with five butts of wine, some hogs, grapes, and other things. 
 Upon which the captains ordered the goods to be taken out of the prize, 
 which they sold to Mr. Crosse for 450 dollars, and put the prisoners on 
 board ; but at the request of Mr. Vanburgh, v/hatever could be recovered 
 of the effects belonging to any of them, were returned, particularly their 
 crosses, relics and books; and Captain Rogers made a present of a 
 cheese to the priest. 
 
 On the 25th of September passed the tropic, when about sixty of the 
 crew, who had never been this course before, were ducked three times, 
 by hoisting them half way up the main-yard with a rope to which they 
 were made fast, and sousing them into the water : this dipping v^ras of 
 great service to some of them, as it cleansed them from the dirt and filth 
 which they had contracted in the voyage. Those who chose to pay 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 101 
 
 half a crown, to be spent in merry-making among the ship's crew on their 
 return to England, were excused from this ceremony. On the 30th of 
 September discovered St. Lucia, one of the Cape de Verd islands, and 
 about eleven o'clock anchored in the harbour of St. Vincent, where, as 
 they knew the island to be uninhabited, and saw several men on shore, 
 Captain Cook went in the pinnace to learn who they were, and found 
 them to be Portuguese from the Island of St. Antonio, come to catch 
 turtle. 
 
 On the 3d, it was determined to send Joseph Alexander, their linguist, 
 with a respectful letter to the governor of these islands, desiring leave 
 to trade for refreshments, as being subjects of Great Britain and allies 
 of the crown of Portugal. During their stay the linguist deserted. 
 The deputy-governor, who was a negro, came on board the Duke, and 
 brought with him tobacco, brandy, hogs, fowls, oranges, limes, musk- 
 melons, and watermelons ; for which he was paid in prize goods of small 
 value. While they lay here to clean their ships, and take in wood and 
 water, a committee was held on board the Duchess, in which certain 
 regulations were made relative to prizes and plunder, which were agrend 
 to by all parties. Care was also taken to prevent too common a prac- 
 tice among the sailors, of selling their clothes to the negroes and natives 
 of these islands for brandy and other trifles. There are ten islands, only- 
 seven of which are mhabited : these are St. Jago, St. Nicholas, Bona- 
 vista, St. Antonio, Brava, Mayo, and Fuego, which last is so called from 
 its volcano ; St. Nicholas and St. Jago are the most populous, the lat- 
 ter of which is a bishop's see, and bears the same name with the island. 
 Here is also a considerable town, said to contain upward of 500 houses, 
 the principal commodities of which are tobacco, sugar, indigo, and goat 
 skins, from which the fine morocco leather is made. Their goats, which 
 are fat and well tasted, yean once in four months, and have three or four 
 kids at a time. The soil in this neighbourhood is but indifferent, but the 
 valleys produce corn and grapes. 
 
 The ships set sail on the 8th of October, in the evening, after having 
 put th'3 deputy-governor on shore. On the 22d, Mr. Page, second mate 
 of the Duchess, being ordered to a birth on board the Duke, from whence 
 Mr. Ballet was to remove on board the Duchess, he (Page) refused to 
 change his ship, and Captain Cook insisting that he should, he struck 
 him ; but he was at length brought on board the Duke, and Captain Ro- 
 gers condemned him to irons. Before the sentence was put h^ execution, 
 he desired to go to the head, when he jumped overboard, and endeavour- 
 ed to swim back to the Duchess, where, as the captains were both ab- 
 sent, he might have excited the men to mutiny ; but»he boat, which was 
 alongside, followed and brought him back, when he was heartily lashed, 
 and then confined in irons till the 29th, when he was set at liberty, on 
 promise of better behaviour. 
 
 On the 14th they came within sight of the land of Brazil, and on the 
 18th came to an anchor before the Island of Grande, in eleven fathoms v^ra- 
 ter. While they lay here, new quarrels arose, and things had certainly 
 come to an extremity on board the Duchess, if Captain Courtney had 
 not put eight of the ringleaders into irons, which frightened the rest, and, 
 in all probability, prevented an attempt to run away with the ship. On 
 the 20th, Mr. Dampicr and a lieutenant commanded two boats, which 
 were sent to the watering-place, to see that it was clear of enemies; 
 when they found a Portuguese boat, the people of which complained 
 that they had lately been robbed by the French. Oa this day four men, 
 
 9» 
 
102 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 who had been observed to be very forward in mutinies, were put into 
 irons ; and in the evening Captain Cook and Lieutenant Pope went to 
 Angre de Reys, a village about three leagues distant, called by the 
 Portuguese, Nostra Senora de la Conceptione, with a present of butter 
 and cheese to the governor, and a request of his friendship. As thev 
 approached the shore, the inhabitants, mistaking them for French, fired 
 several times, but did no damage, and entreated their pardon as soon as 
 they discovered their mistake. 
 
 The governor being at the city called Rio de Janeiro about twelve 
 leagues distant, they were hospitably entertained by a friar, who informed 
 them the French had lately plundered, and used them very ill. Several 
 of the inhabitants came from the town on the 22d, with canoes laden 
 with corn, fowls, limes, and other provisions, which they exchanged for 
 a few trifles : to these people the captain behaved with the utmost civili- 
 ty, and promised a handsome reward to those who should secure any of 
 the deserters from the ships. 
 
 A Portuguese vessel coming to an anchor near to the ships on the 
 23d, laden with negroes, who were brought to work in the gold mines up 
 the country. Captain Rogers fitted out and armed the pinnace, to go and 
 inquire whence she came ; to which the captain replied in a very satis- 
 factory manner, and sent back some very fine sugar and a pot of sweet- 
 meats, as a present to the FiUglish captains. The Portuguese are 
 extremely careful to conceal the roads leading to their minas from all 
 other nations ; and they affirm that the distance from the seaports to 
 these sources of wealth is prodigiously great. 
 
 It was not long before this, that some French bucaniers, who put in 
 here to water, seized above 1200 weight of gold in boats, the land road 
 being almost impassable, leading from Rio de Janeiro to the mines. 
 Captain Dover and Mr. Vanburgh, having been out to take their pleasure 
 in the pinnace, on the 24th of this month, returned with a creature that 
 smelt intolerably ; the skin of which was covered with fur, stuck full of 
 quill? or prickles, like a hedge-hog, and its head resembled that of a 
 monkey. Several Portuguese, and among them some Franciscan friars, 
 who came alongside the ship, affirmed that the nauseous smell arose only 
 from the skin, and that the flesh was very fine eating ; but it was so 
 very oflensive, that none of the sailors could be prevailed upon to try it. 
 On the 25th two men deserted from the Duchess, and made their escape 
 into the woods ; but in the night were so terrified by the noise made by 
 baboons and monkeys, which they mistook for the howhng of tigers, that 
 they ran back and plunged into the water, hailing the ship, and praying 
 to be taken on board again. On the sAme day two Irish land-men got 
 away from the Duke, but were taken on shore two days afterward, while 
 they were waiting for a Portuguese canoe to carry them to some other 
 place, and, being brought on board, Captain Rogers ordered them to be 
 severely whipped, and then put in irons. 
 
 About four o'clock in the morning, the day before these fellows were 
 retaken, the watch on the quarter-deck espied a canoe, and called her to 
 come on board, but the people not answering, and striving to get away, 
 caused a suspicion that they had either got deserters, or were going, by 
 agreement, to fetch them off the island. On this, the pinnace and yawl 
 were immediately despatched after them : the pinnace coming up near 
 the canoe, fired to stop them, but to no purpose ; at length one of the 
 Indians, who rowed the canoe, was wounded ; the person who owned 
 and steered her was a friar, who had a quantity of gold which he had 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 103 
 
 got in the mines, by confessincr the ignorant people. This man ran the 
 canoe on shore on a little island full of wood, just as his pursuers landed, 
 and was attempting to make his escape, but a Portuguese, who had no 
 gold to lose, called liim back. H« was taken with the other prisoners on 
 board the ship, and civilly entertained by Captain Rogers ; the poor In- 
 dian died in about two hours afterward, and the friar was inconsolable, 
 threatening to seek redress either in England or Portugal for the death 
 of his slave, and the loss of his gold, which possibly he had dropped in 
 the bustle, or buried at the place where the canoe ran on shore. 
 
 Captains Rogers and Courtney, and some of the other officers, on the 
 27th October, went in a boat to the town of Angre de Keys, to see a 
 procession in honour of the Virgin Mary. The Portuguese governor, 
 who treated them with the utmost politeness, requested that their music, 
 which consisted of a hautboy and two trumpets, might be permitted to 
 a'ssist at divine service instead of an organ ; which request was readily 
 complied with. When the service of the church was ended, the musi- 
 cians, who were by this time half drunk, marched at the head of the 
 procession, in which was carried lamps of incense, a host, and an image 
 of the Virgin Mary adorned with flowers, surrounded with wax candles, 
 borne on a bier by four men, and followed by the guardian of the convent, 
 about forty priests and friars, the governor of the town. Captain Rogers, 
 Captain Courtney, and the other officers of their company, every one of 
 whom carried a wax taper through complaisance. Some junior priests 
 and the principal inhabitants of the place, every one with his consecrated 
 candle, closed the procession. The ceremony ended, a genteel entertain- 
 ment was provided for the English gentlemen at the convent ; and the 
 governor, whose house was at three miles distance, accommodated the 
 rest of the company at the guard-house, where twenty soldiers were sta- 
 tioned, under the command of a lieutenant and an ensign. 
 
 The town of Angre de Reys consists of about sixty low houses, poor- 
 ly built, ill-furnished, and covered with palmetto leaves ; it has two 
 churches, and a monastery of Franciscan friars, plainly furnished, but neat 
 and decent. The friars possessed some black cattle, but did not choose 
 to sell any. Perhaps the mean appearance of the place might have been 
 owing to their having secreted their best effects, as they had so lately been 
 plundered by the French. 
 
 The officers returning on board, sent the boat back to the town for 
 liquor, together with an invitation to the principal gentlemen of the place 
 to return the visit on board, with which they complied, and were extremely 
 merry. When the Hquor began to operate, they toasted the pope's health, 
 and Captain Rogers in return gave the Archbishop of Canterbury, and 
 William Penn, the famous quaker, which they readily pledged. 
 
 The Island of Grande is remarkably high land, and about nine leagues 
 long. It abounds with movikeys and other wild beasts ; has plenty of 
 timber and excellent water ; and oranges, lemons, and guaives grow wild 
 in the woods. The rivers and bays abound with fish, among which the 
 shark is reckoned the most remarkable ; it has three rows of teeth, a very 
 rough skin, and the old ones especially taste very strong : they are ten 
 feet long, and usually attended by a fish called the pilot-fish,' which finds 
 out prey for them, and whom, it is said, they never devour. The shark 
 is a very heavy fish, and his mouth lying under the head, he is obliged to 
 turn on his back to catch his prey ; and in this manner he often catches 
 hold of the Umb of a man who is swimming, which he takes off at a bite ; 
 he is, however, soon sickened by playing with a line, though extremely 
 
104 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Strong under water. The pilot-fish is exceedingly like a mackerel when 
 swimming in the water, and looks as if it were painted blue and white 
 in a circular form, something like a barber's pole ; but there is another 
 kind of pilot-fish, of a deep blue when out of the water, the back speckled 
 like a seal's skin, the belly of a higher colour than the back and sides, 
 and the scales smooth like those of a tench. One of these, which wa« 
 eight inches long and three broad, was struck by Captain Cook with a 
 harpooning-iron. 
 
 They sailed out of the Bay of Grande on the 1st of December, steer- 
 ing for Juan Fernandez ; on the 5th of January, encountered a violent 
 storm, which drove such a quantity of water into the Duchess, that they 
 expected she would sink every moment. As the men were going to sup- 
 per about nine o'clock at night, she shipped a sea at the poop, which beat 
 in the bulk-head and all the cabin-windows, and drove the first heutenant 
 half way between the decks, together with several pistols and muskets, 
 that were hanging there, darting a sword that was against the bulk-head 
 of the cabin, through a hammock and rug that hung againtt the bulk-head 
 of the steerage. Had the bulk-head of the great cabin not given v/ay, 
 those who were in the other cabin must certainly have been drowned 
 before the water could have run off. It is astonishing that many of the 
 men were not killed with the shutters, the bulk-head, and the arms, 
 •which were driven with amazing violence. Howevor, the yawl was 
 ataved on the deck, and one or two of the men were -wounded, and all 
 the clothes in the ship were excessive wet — chests, hwnmocks and bed- 
 ding being soaked to such a degree, that they had not a rag of anything 
 dry to cover them. 
 
 On the 17th, took an observation, by which they found they had got 
 round Cape Horn, Terra del Fuego, and the straits cf Magellan, being 
 then to the northward of Cape Vittoria. About thi* time, the scurvy 
 began to make a great havoc among the crews, but on the 26th saw land, 
 which they took to be part of the coast of Chili. 
 
 They now bore away for the Island of Juan Fernandez, which appear- 
 ed iu sight on the last day of January, and next day Captain Dover, 
 second captain of the Duke, manned the pinnace, and went off in search 
 of provisions, as well as to find a convenient place for the ship to anchor. 
 Perceiving, as soon as it grew dark, a fire kindled on the island, it was 
 imagined that there were ships in the road ; this light was also seen by 
 those on board the ships, who thought it proceeded from French vessels 
 at anchor, and imagined they should be under a necessity of fighting them, 
 or remain in want of water, and the ships were ordered to prepare for aa 
 engagement. Captain Dover returned on board with the pinnace about 
 two o'clock in the morning, having been afraid to land, on seeing the fire 
 on shore. Next day, while still under apprehensions of an enemy, they 
 stood in for the shore, from which blew such sudden and frequent gusts 
 of wind, that they were forced to reef their top-sail, and stand by the 
 masts, lest they should go by the board ; they now expected to find the 
 enemy ; but seeing all clear, and no ships either in that bay or in another 
 to the northward, conjectured that some ships had been there, but had 
 departed on seeing them. 
 
 About noon, sent the yawl ashore, with Captain Dover, Mr. Fry, and 
 six men, well armed ; but as they did not speedily return. Captain Rogers 
 sent his pinnace, well manned, to inquire into the occasion of their stay ; 
 for he began to fear that the Spaniards might have a garrison there, and 
 had made them prisoners. They therefore put out a signal for the yawl, 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 105 
 
 Bnd the Duchess showed a French ensign. The boats returned toward 
 evening, and brought with them abundance of cray-fish, and a man clothed 
 in goats' skins, who appeared wilder than the goats themselves. This 
 man had been on the island four years and four months, having been left 
 there by Captain Straddling, commander of a vessel called the Cinque 
 Ports, of which this person, whose name was Alexander Selkirk, had 
 been master. Captain Dampier, who had been at that time on board 
 Captain StraddUng's ship, informed Captain Rogers that Selkirk was the 
 best sailor on board her ; whereon he was immediately made mate of 
 the Duke. It was he who had made the fire the last night, when he saw 
 the ship, which he imagined to be EiJglish. During his abode on the 
 island, he had seen several ships pass by, but only two came to an an- 
 chor ; on which, he went to reconnoitre, and finding them to be Spa- 
 niards, retired, and escaped, notwithstanding they shot at him. Had they 
 been French, he would have submitted, but he chose rather to run the 
 risk of dying alone on the island, than fall into the hands of the Spa- 
 niards ; apprehending that they would either make him a slave in the 
 mines ot murder him ; as he could by no means suppose they would spare 
 any stranger, who was so well acquainted with the South Seas. These 
 Spaniards had landed before he knew what they were ; and they came 
 so near that it was with great difficulty be escaped, for after they had ftred, 
 they pursued him to the woods, where he climbed to the top of a tree, at 
 the foot of which some, who were searching for him, killed several goats 
 within his sight ; but at length departed without discovering him. 
 
 Mr. Selkirk .said he was a native of Largo, in the county of Fife, in 
 Scotland, and bred a sailor from his youth. That the reason of his being 
 left on the island, was a difference between him and hts captain, which, 
 together with the ship's being leaky, made him at first willing to stay 
 there, rather than go with him ; and that afterward, when he altered his 
 mind, and would gladly have gone on board, the captain v/ould not re- 
 ceive him. He had been at this island before to wood and water, at 
 wh.ch time their vessel was chased thence by two French ships, leaving 
 two of the crew on the island ; but after th^.y had been there six months, 
 the ship returned and took them off. He had his clothes and bedding 
 with him, also a firelock, a little powder, some bullets, and tobacco ; a 
 hatchet, a kettle, a knife, a bible, some books of practical divinity, and 
 his mathematical instruments and books. He diverted and provided for 
 himself as well as he could, but for the first eight months he was ex- 
 tremely melancholy, and could hardly support the terror of being alone 
 in such a desolate place. He built two huts with pimento trees, covered 
 them witji long grass, and lined them with the skins of goats, which he 
 killed with his gun as he wanted, so long as his powder, which was but 
 a pound, lasted. He procured fire by rubbing two sticks of pimento 
 wood upon his knee. 
 
 In the smaller hut, which was at some distance from the other, he 
 dressed his victuals ; and in the larger he slept, and employed himself in 
 reading, singing psalms, and praying ; so that he said he was a better 
 Christian while in this solitude, than he was before or than, he feared, 
 he ever should be again. When first left alone, he eat nothing till con- 
 strained to it by mere hunger, which arose partly from the want of bread 
 and salt, and partly from the excess of his grief; nor did he go to bed 
 till he was able to keep awake no longer. 
 
 The pimento wood, which burnt very clear, served him both for fire and 
 candle, and refreshed him with its fragrant smell. He could have pro- 
 
106 VOYAGES ROUND THE W6RLD. 
 
 cured fish enough, but would not eat them for want of salt, because they 
 occasioned a looseness, except a sort of cray-fish, which were extremely 
 good, and as large as our lobsters. These he sometimes broiled, and at 
 other times bailed, as he also did the goat's flesh, and made very good 
 broth, for the taste of it is much more pleasant than that of the goats of 
 England and Wales. He kept an account of five hundred of these ani- 
 mals which he had killed, and as many more which he caught, and ha- 
 ving marked them on the ear, let them go again. When his powder was 
 gone, he took them by out-rufining them ; for his way of living and his 
 continual exercise of walking and running, had so cleared his body of all 
 gross humours, that he ran with wonderful swiftness through the woods 
 and up the rocks and hills, as the people belonging to the ships perceived 
 when they employed him to catch goats for them ; they had a bull-dog 
 which they sent, with several of their nimblest runners, to assist him in 
 catching goats ; but he distanced and tired both men and dog, catching 
 the goats and bringing them oh his back. He told them that his agility 
 in pursuing a goat had once like to have cost him his life ; he pursued 
 it with so much eagerness, that he caught hold of it on the brink of a 
 precipice, of which he was not aware, as the bushes concealed it from 
 his sight ; so that he" fell vvrth the goat down the precipice, a prodigious 
 height, and was so stunned and braised with the fall, that he lay there 
 insensible, as he imagined, about twenty-four hours, and when he came 
 to his senses he found the goat dead under him. He was so hurt that 
 he was hardly able to crawl to his hut, which was about a mile distant, 
 nor was he able to go abroad again in less thnn ten days. He came at 
 length to rehsh his meat well enough without salt or bread, and found 
 plenty of good turnips, which had been sowed there by Captain Dam- 
 pier's men, and had now overspread some acres of ground. He had 
 plenty of good cabbage from the trees, and seasoned his meat with the 
 fruit of pimento trees, commonly called Jamaica pepper. He found also 
 a black pepper called malageta, which was very good to expel wind and 
 prevent a griping in the bowels. He soon wore out his shoes as well as 
 his clothes by running in the woods, and at length his feet became so 
 hard, that he ran everywhere without^ difficulty ; and it was some time 
 after he was found before he could wear shoes again, for not being used 
 to any so long, his feet swelled when he came first to put then! on. 
 
 After he had conquered his melancholy, he diverted himself some- 
 times with cutting his name on the trees, together with the time of his 
 being left, and continuance there. He was at first much pestered with 
 rats, which had bred in great numbers frmn some which had got on shore 
 from ships, which put in there for wood and water. The rats gnawed 
 his feet and clothes while he slept, so that he was obliged to cherish 
 some cats, which had" also bred from some that had got ashore from dif- 
 ferent ships ; these he fed with goat's flesh, by which many of them 
 became so tame, that they would lie about him in hundreds, and soon 
 delivered him from the rats. He likewise tamed some kids ; and to divert 
 himself, would frequently sing and dance with them and his cats ; so 
 that by the favour of Providence, and the vigour of youth, he being now 
 only thirty years of age, he at length was enabled to conquer all the in- 
 conveniences of his solitude, and became extremely easy. VvHien his 
 clothes were worn out he made a coat and a cap of goat's skin, sewed 
 together with little thongs of the same, which he cut vi^ith his knife. He 
 had no other needle but a nail, and when his knife was worn out he made 
 others as well as he could of some iron hoops that were left ashore, 
 
I 
 
^OGDES ROGERS. lO? 
 
 tvtiich he beat straight and thin, and ground upon stones. Having some 
 linen cloth, he cut out some shirts, which he sewed with the worsted of 
 his old stockings, pulled out on purpose, using an old nail to make holes, 
 instead of a needle, and he had his last shirt on wheii he was found. At 
 first going on board, he seemed much rejoiced, but had so far forgot his 
 native language for want of use, that he could not speak plainly, only 
 dropping a few words of English now and then, and without connexion ; 
 but m two or three days he began to talk, and then told them that his 
 silence was involimtary ; for that having been so long on the island with- 
 out any person with whom to converse, he had forgotten the use of his 
 tongue. A dram was offered him, but he would not taste it, having drank 
 nothing but water for so long a time, and it was a good while before he 
 could relish the victuals on board. He gave no account of any produce 
 of the island, which had not been discovered before, except some black 
 plums, which were very gdod, but difficult to come at ; the trees on 
 which they grow being on high mountains and rocks. Pimento trees 
 were plenty here, some of which were sixty feet high, and two yards in 
 circumference ; the cotton trees were still higher, and near four fathoms 
 round at the bottom. The climate of this island is so good, that the 
 trees and grass continue green all the year round. The winter lasts no 
 longer than June or July, and it is not then severe, there being only a 
 small frost and a little hail, but sometimes great rains. The heat of the 
 summer is equally moderate, and there is not much thunder or tpmpestu- 
 ous weather of any sort. 
 
 Selkirk saw no venomous creature on the island, nor any sort of beast 
 but goats, which had originally been put on shore here, on purpose for a 
 breed, by Juan Fernando, who settled here with some families, till the 
 continent of Chili began to submit to the Spaniards, which being a more 
 profitable soil, the planters were tempted to remove thither. They got 
 the smith's forge on shore on the 3d of February, set the coopers to 
 work, and made a little tent for Captain Rogers to have the benefit of 
 the air. The people of the Duchess also erected a tent for their sick 
 men : those in health were employed in providing fish both for themselves 
 and the sick, and were sometimes able, so great was the abundance, to 
 catch as many in a few hours as would serve two hundred people. The 
 bay abounded with sea- fowls, which are as large as geese, but they had 
 a fishy taste. 
 
 Mr. Selkirk, to whom they gave the name of governor, never failed 
 to procure two or three goats a day, for the use of the sick men, by which, 
 together with the wholesome air and the help of the greens, they soon 
 got rid of the scurv}'. They spent the time till the 10th in taking in 
 wood and water, and refitting their ships. They likewise boiled up 
 about eight gallons of sea-lions' oil, as they might have done several tons 
 had they been provided with vessels. This they refined for their lamps, 
 to save candles ; and it was sometimes used by the sailors instead of 
 butter, to fry their meat, and they found it far from disagreeable. 
 
 The healthy men eat the flesh of the young seals, which they preferred 
 to the ship's provisions, and said it was as good as English lamb ; though 
 Captain Rogers observes, he should have been very glad of the exchange. 
 
 On the 13th of February, a consultation was held on board the 
 Duchess, in which they made several regulations for preserving strict 
 honesty, disciphne, and secrecy, on board both vessels, and agreed to 
 sail to the islands of Lobos de la Mar ; and the ship which arrived there 
 first was to lea^ve directions for the other how to proceed, buried in a 
 
108 VOYAGfiS ROT/ND THE WORLD. 
 
 glass bottle at the distance of twenty yards from the shore, at certain 
 places which they named. On the 14th weighed anchor, with a fair gale 
 at south-east, having buried only two men at the Island of Juan Fernan- 
 dez. On the 24th of the month, crossed the tropic of Capricorn, when 
 they saw several tropical birds, among which were the boobies, which are 
 about the size of a magpie ; the eyes large, the back red, and the tail 
 consisting only of one feather, about eighteen inches in length ; the fea- 
 thers are black and white on the top of the back and wings, and white 
 underneath ; they are supposed to live on fish ; they fly high, and are 
 scarcely ever seen but near the tropics. 
 
 On the 3d of March, when the weather was extremely hot, saw several 
 pieces of wood and some trees floating on the water, together with abun- 
 dance of weeds, about which was seen a considerable number of sea- 
 larks, some of which Captain Cook shot, as he did a booby, almost white, 
 and a seal, which immediately sunk ; a large sun-fish coming near tho 
 boat, they struck it with the fisgig, but it got off. They also saw several 
 flying fish, which are long and slender, having a very large eye, and a 
 body which in shape and colour resembles that of a mullet. They some- 
 times fly near the length of a musket-shot before they touch the water, 
 and then, wetting their wings, rise up again ; their enemies, the dolphins, 
 chasing them and swimming after them with such swiftness, that they 
 frequently catch them on their falling into the water ; and sometimes the 
 flying fish drop into ships. 
 
 On the 4th of March every man waa put to an allowance of three 
 pints of water per day, that the stock might hold out, they being deter- 
 mined to keep at sea, in the hope of taking some prize from Lima or 
 elsewhere. According to their hopes, on the evening of the 15th, they 
 saw a sail, and the Duchess being nearest soon took her. She was a 
 little vessel, of sixteen tons, from Payta, bound to Cheripe, to take in 
 flour, with a small sum of money on board to purchase it. The master's 
 name was Antonio Heliagos, a mestizo, that is, one begotten between an 
 Indian and a Spaniard : the crew, which consisted of eight men, were a 
 Spaniard, a negro, and six Indians. They said that all the French ships, 
 being seven in number, were sailed out of those seas six months before, 
 and that no more were to come there ; adding, that the Spaniards had 
 such an antipathy to the French, that at Calao, the seaport of Lima, they 
 quarrelled so frequently, and killed so many, that none were suflfered to 
 go on shore for some time before they sailed thence. The prisoners 
 likewise said, that there had been no enemies in those parts since Cap- 
 tain Dampier had been there four years before ; and that Captain Strad- 
 dling's ship, the Cinque Ports, who was Dampier's consort, foundered on 
 the coast of Barbacom, where he and about six or seven of his men were 
 saved, but being taken in their boat, had been kept prisoners at Lima 
 ever since, where they had fared much worse than poor Selkirk, whom 
 they had left on shore at Juan Fernandez. When they had manned the 
 prize with English sailors, they hauled off close on a wind for Lobos, 
 having shot within it ; and had not the crew of the prize informed them 
 better, they might have endangered their ships by running in farther, as 
 there are shoals between the island and the main. 
 
 On the 17th, anchored between the two islands of Lobos de la Mar, 
 together with the prize, which on the day following they prepared to fit 
 out as a cruiser, under the command of Mr. Strutton, giving her the name 
 of the Beginning. On the 20th, being manned with thirty-two men, and 
 stocked wiih provisions, she put to sea with the Duchess ; and on the 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 109 
 
 26th brought in a prize which they had taken in company ; her harden 
 was fifty tons, and she was laden with timber, cocoa nuts, and tobacco, 
 which last article was distributed among the crews of the Duke and 
 Duchess. Having cleaned and refitted the last prize, they made Mr. 
 Selkirk master, and removed the sick of both ships on board her, under 
 the care of a surgeon. The largest two of these islands, called Lobos de 
 la Mar, (to distinguish them from those called Lobos de la Terra,) are 
 about sixteen leagues from the continent, and six miles in length. The 
 soil is a white clay, mixed with sand and rocks. They atford no fresh 
 water nor anything green, and have no kind of wood. There are a vast 
 plenty of a kind of vultures, or carrion crows, which at a distance looked 
 so like turkeys, that one of the ship's officers blessed himself with the 
 sight of them, thinking he should fare deliciously ; nay, so very eager 
 was he to taste them, that he had not patience till the boat could put 
 him ashore, but jumped into the water with his gun in his hand, and get- 
 ting near enough, let fly at two of them ; but, when he came to take up 
 his game, it stunk so intolerably, that he was laughed at for his fruitless- 
 impatience by his brother officers. 
 
 On the island are abundance of seals, and some sea-lions ; the seals 
 are much larger than those at Juan Fernandez, but the fur not so tine. 
 They killed many to eat their livers, but one of the crew, a Spaniard, 
 dying suddenly after eating of them, the use of this sort of food was 
 forbidden. The prisoners said that old seals were very unwholesome. 
 The wind always blowuig fresh over land, brought an ugly noisome smell 
 from the seals on shore, which gave Captain Roger's a violent head-ache, 
 and this smell was complained of by everybody else on board ; but no 
 complaint of this kind had been made from the smell of those animals at 
 Juan Fernandez. 
 
 The prisoners told them, it was expected that the widow of the late 
 viceroy of Peru, with her family and riches, would shortly embark for 
 Acapulco, and stop at Payta to refresh, ors ail in sight, as customary in 
 one of the king's ships of thirty guns ; and that about eight months 
 before, a ship with 200,000 pieces of eight on board, besides a cargo of 
 liquors and flour, had passed by Payta for Acapulco. They also said, 
 they had left Siguier Morel in a stout ship, with dry goods for Lima, re- 
 cruiting at Payta, where he expected in a few days a French built ship, 
 belonging to the Spaniards, to come from Panama, richly laden, with a 
 bishop on board. Upon this advice they agreed to spend as much time 
 as possible cruising off Payta, whhout discovering themselves, for fear of 
 hindering their other designs. 
 
 On the 1st of April found the sea of the colour ol blood, which, on 
 inspection, appeared to be caused by the spawn of fish swimming on the 
 surface of the water. On the 2d, Mr. Fry was sent in the pinnace after 
 a vessel they discovered ; he soon took and brought her in, when she 
 appeared to be the ship already mentioned, commanded by Signior Morel 
 and his brother ; her burthen was 500 tons, and, besides her cargo, she 
 had on board fifty negroes, and many passengers bound from Panama lo 
 LiiTia, with a fine stock of fresh provisions ; the command of this vessel 
 was given to Lieutenant Fry ; and the following day the Beginning took 
 a prize of thirty-five tons burthen, bound from Guaquil to Chancay ; by 
 which vessel they learned tiiat the bishop already mentioned was still at 
 Payta, but would soon pass the road in which they now were, on his way 
 to Lima. On hearing this, the cruisers were stationed in such amannei; 
 as seeraed to bid fair for shortening his lordship's voyage, 
 
 10 
 
lid VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLI). 
 
 On the 7th, Mr. Vanhurgh still continuing to behave in a very riotous 
 end improper manner, was, in a full council of the officers of both ships, 
 turned out of his post as a person unfit to be trusted. It was resolved 
 in a committee, on the 12th of April, not to send the Beginning prize 
 into Payta, as had been agreed on, for fear of being discovered ; but to 
 attempt the town of Guaquil ; the enterprise to be conducted by the 
 three captains, P4,ogers, Courtney, and Dover ; Rogers to command a 
 company of seventy-one officers and sailors ; Courtney to be at the head 
 of severity-three men ; and Dover to have seventy men under his com- 
 mand. Captain Dampier to command the artillery, with a reserve of 
 twenty-two men to act upon occasion ; Captain Cook to command the 
 Duchess with forty-two men ; and Captain Fry the Duke, with forty men. 
 
 They hauled in for Cape Blanco on the 13th, when a cCmmittee was 
 held, in which it was agreed, that for the encouragement of officers and 
 men, all bedding and clothes, gold rings, buckles and buttons, liquors and 
 provisions, with all sorts of arms, except great guns for ships, should be 
 allowed as plunder, to be equally divided between all the men on board 
 or on shore, according to their whole shares. That all wrought gold or 
 silver crucifixes, watches found about the prisoners, or wearing apparel of 
 any kind, shodld also be plunder, except money, women's ear-rings, loose 
 diamonds, pearls, and precious stones ; and, in case a)iything was not 
 sufficiently explained, a committee should, upon application being made 
 for that purpose, meet after the expedition, and determine what farthef 
 ought to be reputed plunder, withdut fraud to the owners, or prejudice 
 to the officers and men. That no person should misinterpret this allow- 
 ance, so as to conceal wrought or unwrought gold or silver, pearls, 
 jewels, diamonds, or precious stones, not found about prisoners, or their 
 wearing apparel, which should be looked upon as a high misdemeanour 
 and severely punished : that none should keep any plunder, but deliver it 
 to his officer publicly, and carry it to the place appointed for the deposit. 
 That in case any town, fort, or ship, were taken by storm, the encou- 
 ragement agreed on at the Island of St. Vincent should be allowed to 
 each man, over and above the gratuity promised by the owners to those 
 who signalized themselves. But if any party should be engaged with 
 another of the enemy, and defeat them, then all the prisoners, and the 
 arms and moveables about them, should be divided amdng them only who 
 were in the action ; all the plunder taken on shore to be carried on board 
 by persons appointed for that purpose, and entered in public books, for 
 the satisfaction of all concerned. That those who should commit any 
 disorder on shore, disobey command, quit their post, discourage the men, 
 behave themselves cowardly in any action, burn or destroy anything 
 without orders, or debauch the prisoners, should Idse all their shares of 
 the plunder, and be severely punished otherwise. 
 
 On the morning of the 15th, the French built prize, which they had so 
 long expected, appeared within sight near the shore ; and, as they had 
 but little wind, the float and pinnace rowed after and attacked her, but 
 she repulsed them, with the loss of two men, one of whom was Captain 
 Roger's brother, shot through the head, and three wdunded ; the ships 
 coming up, she struck to the Duchess, after receiving a shot or two. 
 The men begged for quarter, which was readily promised. There were 
 seventy blacks, and a considerable number of passengers on board ; the 
 lading consisted of bale goods ; and there was a considerable quantity of 
 pearls. The vessel was about 270 tons burthen, commanded by Don 
 Joseph i^izabala, who informed them that the bishop and his attendants 
 
h?i(3 been landed at Point St. Helena, and were gone by land to Guaquil. 
 On the 17th, all the men intended for the descent upon Guaquil, to the 
 number of 201, went on board the barks, each having a ticket delivered 
 to him, signifying what company he belonged to, and his particular sta- 
 tion, which was thought necessary to prevent the men from straggling. 
 As there were 300 prisoners in custody, and those to guard them but 
 little more than a third of that number, irons were sent on board the 
 Duke and the other vessels, in order to intimidate the captives. 
 
 Captains Fry and Cook, to whom wore committed the care of the Duke 
 and Duchess, were directed to keep out at sea for forty-eight hours, to 
 prevent their being discovered by the enemy ; and afterward to wait the 
 event of the expedition at Punta Arena, ofi which place Captain Rogers 
 and his barks, together with Captain Courtney, came to an anchor at ten 
 o'clock at night ; when taking to their boatsj with about forty men, they 
 made for Puna, an island covered with swamps and overrun with man- 
 groves, and in the morning came to a grappling close under the land, out 
 of sight of the look-out. At seven on the evening of the 19th, the ships 
 came to an anchor between St. Clara and Tumbez ; the boats weifhing, 
 rowed within half a mile of the town, and came to a grappling, disposing 
 themselves, for fear of being discovered, in such a manner that they had 
 the appearance of drift timber upon the water. By break of day on the 
 20th, they got close up with the town, and secured all the canoes ; and, 
 notwithstanding an alarm was spread by an Indian who escaped, they 
 seized the governor of the town, and with him about twenty people, who 
 assured them that the inhabitants of Guaquil could have no information 
 of their being so near, those who had fled from Puna having taken refuge 
 in the woods. In this town they found a paper that had been sent from 
 Lima, copies of which were also dispersed all along the coast, to give 
 notice that Captain Dampier was again arrived in those seas ; they were, 
 however, convinced that they should be able to execute what they intend- 
 edj before any forces could arrive from Lima to oppose their designs. 
 
 On the morning of the 21st, the Beginning was sent ahead toward 
 Punta Arena, on the Island of Puna, for fear of any danger ; but she 
 fqund there only an empty vessel riding close under the point : she proved 
 to be a new Spanish bark, that had been sent to load salt ; but the crew, 
 on sight of the English, thought proper to abandon her. All apprehen- 
 sions being now totally removed, the boats and barks rowed for the town 
 of Guaquil, and at eleven saw a light in the town. On this, they rowed 
 as easily as possible, till within a mile of it, for fear of a discovery, and 
 then heard the sentinels call to one another, talk some time, and bid him 
 bring fire. Finding they were discovered, they rowed over to the other 
 side against the town, saw a fire made at the place where the sentinels 
 talked, and soon after, many lights at the water-side and all over the town : 
 henrd them ring the alarm bell, fire several volleys, and saw them light 
 a fire on the hill where the beacon was kept, to give the town notice that 
 they were come up the river, 
 
 .The boats came now to a grappling, and such a violent dispute arose 
 among some of the chief officers, that they were heard on shore, but the 
 Spaniards, not understanding what they said, fetched an Englishman to 
 the water-side, to interpret what they heard ; but before he came the 
 debate was at an end. A council was held in the stern of one of the 
 boats, to resolve whether they should land hnmediaiely, or stay till day- 
 break ; and as the officers differed in their opinions, it was agreed, since 
 they did not know the ground, and the barks were not come up, which 
 
112 VOYAGES ROUND THiS WORLD. 
 
 had near half the men and the artillery on board, to stay till daylight, by 
 which time it was hoped the barks would join them ; therefore they fell 
 a little way down the river to meet them, hearing several musket-shots 
 in their way, which they at first thought were fired by the Spaniards 
 along the shore. 
 
 At break of day, on the 22d, saw one of the barks at anchor close 
 under the shore, within a mile of the town ; at flood descried the other 
 coming up the river ; they then rowed back to the bark, which had fired 
 the muskets above-mentioned at some fishermen who were passing, and 
 whom they made prisoners. When their forces were thus reassembled, 
 they held a council in the pinnace, sailed up the river, and sent a flag of 
 truce with the captain of the French built ship, the Governor of Puna, 
 and another prisoner ; then towed up the barks abreast, and came to an 
 anchor .igainst the town. When the captam of the French built ship 
 came to the corregidor, or mayor of the town, he asked the number of 
 English, which the captain pretended to be greater than it really was. 
 The corregidor said they were boys, and not men ; to which the captain 
 replied, he would find they were men ; for they had fought him bravely 
 in their open boat, though he had killed the brother of one of the cap- 
 tains, and wounded and killed others : and, therefore, advised him to 
 agree for the ransom of the town, for though he had 3000 men, he would 
 not be able to withstand them. To this the corregidor replied, "My 
 horse is ready.'* 
 
 On the 33d they went up the river after some vessels in the pinnace, 
 six of which they took and brought to an anchor by the barks ; they also 
 seized two new vessels, of about 400 tons each, and then went on shore 
 with a flag of truce, and the governor came on board one of the prizes, 
 to consult concerning the ransom of the town and ships ; this they could 
 not agree about, and he promised to return again at seven in the evening, 
 but was not so good as his word. The boats now went up the river again 
 to search for more ships, but returned without finding any, but they took 
 several canoes with some plate on board. The sentinels hailed a boat 
 after midnight, which came on board with one gentleman, who said he 
 was sent by the corregidor, with a present of two bags of flour, two sheep, 
 and two hogs ready killed ; also two jars of brandy and two of wine ; 
 and to assure them that the governor would have been with them accord- 
 ing to his appointment, but was prevented by the absence of one of the 
 principal merchants concerned. He would come off, however, in the 
 morning by seven o'clock ; and hoped they would do him the justice to 
 believe he was a man of honour ; for though he had been greatly rein- 
 forced since he left them, he was determmed to wait on them agreeable 
 to his promise. The captains sent their compliments to the corregidor, 
 and thanks for his present, and said they were sorry they had nothing to 
 send him by way of return ; but desired he might be told, they were sur- 
 prised he had not kept his word, but depended that he would convince 
 them of his being a man of honour, by meeting them at seven o'clock in 
 the morning, or there should be a final end of the treaty. 
 
 They waited with impatience till seven in the morning, when they saw 
 a flag of truce on board one of the new ships, where they supposed the 
 governor to be, and therefore manned their pinnace, and sent their linguist 
 to give their promise, that if the corregidor would come on board the 
 prize, he should have full liberty to return ; on which he came on board 
 with three other persons. The barks belonging to the two frigates were 
 now ordej^d to go close under the shore, near the best part of the town> 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 113 
 
 and everything to be held in readiness for landing, in case they should 
 not agree with the corregidor. The three captains at first demanded that 
 50,000 pieces of eight should be paid for the ransom of the town, the 
 two new ships, and the six barks ; besides which, the governor was to 
 oblige himself to purchase the goods and negroes, which were taken in 
 the prizes, at certain stipulated prices, to be paid within nine days. 
 
 The Spaniards agreed to the latter article, offering to leave two hos- 
 tages for the performance of it, which were thought insufficient ; but they 
 refused to give near the sum demanded for the town and ships, saying, 
 they had men and arms sufficient to defend themselves. From this delay 
 the captain suspected that they only wanted to gain time, and therefore 
 informed them that they could take the town or seize the ships at plea- 
 sure; that they looked on both the one and the other as much their own 
 as if already in their possession ; and if their demands were not instantly 
 complied with, they would fire both town and ships before night. After 
 some little consideration, the corregidor and his companions agreed to 
 buy the cargoes, and to give hostages for 40,000 pieces of eight for the 
 town, the two new ships, and the barks ; but they declined signing this 
 agreement till they had the consent of the principal persons of the town, 
 which the corregidor undertook to procure in the space of an hour. About 
 one in the afternoon the corregidor was put on shore in Captain Rogers's 
 pinnace ; some of the men were for stopping him, because not long be- 
 fore an Indian came off in a canoe to know whether he had agreed with 
 the English, as, in case he had not, his men were in readiness to begin 
 the fight, and waited only for his orders ; but the corregidor insisting that 
 the detaining him would be contrary to the flag of truce, he was permit- 
 ted to depart ; the three gentlemen, however, remained as hostages, at 
 the request of the corregidor, who did not doubt but the agreement would 
 soon be ratified. 
 
 When the time allotted for the answer was expired, a messenger came 
 from the town to inform them that they could raise but* 30,000 pieces of 
 eitrht, and he did not mention a single word of trade. On this they sent 
 their linguist and one prisoner with their final message, which was, that 
 if in half an hour they did not send three more good hostages for the 
 40,000 pieces of eight agreed on, they would strike the flag of truce, land, 
 give no quarter, and fire the town and ships. In the meantime, they saw 
 the Spaniards quit the two new ships, and they immediately took posses- 
 sion of tliem. The messenger returned, and in about half an hour three 
 men more came from the town to the bank opposite the captain's barks, 
 where they held out a white handkerchief, as if to treat farther. They 
 said that the resolution was to give 32,000 pieces of eight, and no more ; 
 to which the English rephed they had done treating, and bid them retire 
 immediately out of the reach of their shot, as they valued their lives. 
 They now struck their white flag, and let fly their martial colours. 
 
 Captain Rogers ordered two guns, of about six hundred weight each, 
 mounted on carriages, into the great launch, and filled their three boats 
 with men in order to land ; he then went himself into a pinnace, Captain 
 Courtney in another, and Captain Dover in the launch, the three boats 
 carrying about seventy men. They towed the launch ashore ; the third 
 lieutenant remained on board the bark, with ten men, to play their guns 
 into the town as they landed ; where the Spaniards, compared with their 
 little army, made a formidable appearance. As soon as they landed, 
 which v.as about four iu the afternoon, the men fired, on their knees, at 
 the brink of the bank, and then loading, advanced, having called to their 
 
 10* 
 
il4 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 bark to forbear firing, lest they should hurt their own men. They pushed 
 forward with such bravery, that the Spaniards fired but one volley, and 
 retired back to their guns, where their horse drew up a second time ; 
 while the English, still pressing on with the utmost intrepidity, came to 
 the streets of the town, where they saw four guns pointed at them before a 
 spacious church ; but as soon as they came in sight, the horse moved off 
 with great precipitation. 
 
 Captain Rogers now called out to his men to run and seize the guns, he 
 himself advancing with about ten men within pistol-shot of them, at which 
 boldness the enemy were so intimidated, that after one general discharge 
 they all fled, except the gunner, an Irishman, who kept his post till he 
 received four wounds, of which he afterward died. Many more of the 
 English now coming up, under the command of Captain Dover and Cap- 
 tain Courtney, Mr Rogers remained to secure the post he had so bravely 
 gained, and took possession of the church, where they made about twelvg 
 prisoners, while the rest marched to the other end of the town. From 
 the time they landed till their seizing the guns and taking possession of 
 the church, was not more than half an hour. Captain Dampier, with 
 twenty-five men, was now posted at the guns, which he turned against 
 the enemy, who soon fled from the town. By this time the rest of the 
 English being la;ided, marched after Captain Courtney and Captain Dover. 
 The men in general behaved v/ith the utmost courage, but, as is generally 
 the case with sailors, they were kept but little under command after the 
 first piece was fired ; but after the attack, they forbore hard drinking, and 
 kept properly together. 
 
 Captain Rogers overtook Courtney and Dover at the other end of the 
 town, where he left Courtney to keep guard at a church, and then re- 
 turned to his first post, while Dampier and his men vrent to reinforce 
 Dover and Courtney. They were m quiet possession of the town by 
 sun-set, having met with no opposition after the enemy quitted the great 
 church. They now made a proper disposition of their guards, and in the 
 evening Captain Rogers went on board the bark, settled a watch, and 
 .then returned ashore to the church. Captain Dover now set fire to five 
 or six houses which fronted the church, which burnt all night and the next 
 day. The reason of burning these was, that there was a hill near this 
 quarter, and thick woods within a musket-shot of the church, whence the 
 enemy were almost continually firing at him during the whole night, but 
 without doing any damage : and the next day several small parties of 
 horse and foot came down, but retired without making any attempt. Had 
 the Spaniards been courageous, they might have done great mischief to 
 Captain Dover, as his friends were not near enough to assist him ; for 
 the town being long, the whole of it could not be kept without dividing 
 the men into.parties at a considerable distance ; but his firing the houses 
 did him great service, by covering the worst part of his quarters for that 
 night ; and at daybreak Captain Courtney relieved him, when they both 
 quitted those quarters as a place too much exposed to the enemy. 
 
 An Indian, who had been taken prisoner, informed Rogers that he knew 
 of much money up the river in houses and bark-logs ; whereupon the 
 Duchess's pinnace, with twenty-one men, commanded by Lieutenant 
 Connelly, were sent up the river. As they had found but little wealth 
 in the town. Captain Rogers was for sending both the pinnaces to seize 
 that which the Indian had spoken of, but the others would by no means 
 consent to it, lest the enemy should engage them in the absence of their 
 boats and people. The English now began, with iron crows and other 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 115 
 
 instruments, to break open the churches and all the store-houses, cellars, 
 &,c., but in this they had very little success, as scarcely anything was left 
 m the town except flour, beans, peas, and jars of wine and brandy. 
 These, howerer, they began to carry to the water-side, but as the wea- 
 ther was wet, hot, and unhealthy, the men were so fatigued, and became 
 so weak, that they could not well work at thia employment. Numbers 
 of the people were for taking up the boarded floor of the church, to 
 search for treasure among the dead ; but Captain Rogers absolutely for- 
 bad its being done, because not long before their arrival a pestilential 
 disease had carried oflf great numbers of people. They found only two 
 of the enemy killed in the town, one of whom was the Irish gunner 
 above-mentioned ; and made one prisoner, who was wounded in the 
 head ; but on inquiry, they were told that fifteen were killed and wound- 
 ed. Among the English only two were wounded. 
 
 On the 24th the English colours were kept flying all day on the tow- 
 ers of the church, where Captain Dover kept guard ; while Rogers and 
 Courtney took care to have what they found most useful conveyed to 
 the water-side. On this day the Governor of Puna and another prison- 
 er were sent to the enemy, who were in the woods at about a league's 
 distance, with proposals for ransoming the town. They returned in the 
 evening with an ambiguous answer, but desired to be sent back again the 
 next morning, in hopes to prevent the burning of the town. They had 
 intelligence now that the enemy were coming down the hill ; on which an 
 alarm was given, and part of the men being left with the guns. Captain 
 Rogers marched with the rest, and met Captain Courtney on the bridge, 
 retiring, who reported that the enemy were numerous and well armed at 
 the north end of the town. Rogers desiring they might march against 
 them, Courtney consented ; whereupon they went forward with their 
 whole force, which did not exceed seventy men ; but on their advancing, 
 the Spaniards retired into the woods, from whence they assailed them 
 with firing shots, which the English returned at random ; and the cap- 
 tains nut agreeing about keeping possession of that end of the- town, 
 marched back, taking some of the most valuable effects, which they sent 
 on board the barks. 
 
 About ten o'clock at night the boat, which had been sent up the river, 
 returned, having been absent about twenty- four hours. They had pro- 
 ceeded about seven leagues, and sixteen of the men had landed at sis 
 different places, the others taking care of he boat, having a swivel gun 
 to defend themselves. At one place they separated, and four of the men 
 rambled so far into the woods in search of wealth that, after wandering 
 about three hours, they could not find their way back to their companions, 
 but they met them again afterward, by mere accident, and got to the 
 boat. They had, at difl'erent places, some skirmishes with the enemy ; 
 and in particular, chased thirty-five horsemen, who were well armed, and 
 coming to assist the inhabitants of Guaquil. They found the houses up 
 the river full of women ; at one place there were above a dozen well 
 dressed and handsome, from whom they took several gold chains and 
 ear-rings ; but were in other respects so civil to them, that the ladies 
 brought them a cask of good liquor, and offered to dress victuals for the 
 party. 
 
 Several of the largest gold chains they had concealed by fastening them 
 round their middles, legs, and thighs; but as' in those hot countries the 
 women go extremely thinly clothed in fine linen and silk, the men by 
 pressing on the outside of their clothes felt the chains, and by means of. 
 
116 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 their linguist, modestly desired them to take them off with their own 
 hands. As they returned down the river, they called at this house for 
 provisions, and as they had been so civil at first, the ladies expressed 
 neither surprise nor uneasiness at a second visit. In their progress, they 
 had seized a large empty bark, but thought proper to abandon her. They 
 brought back with them, in plate, ear-rings, and gold chains, to the valtie 
 of £1000, but were of opinion they lost much more than they got, for 
 want of another boat ; for while they were upon the search on one side, 
 the bark-logs and canoes crossed the river in their sight, carrying many 
 persons, with their effects, out of their reach. They also acquainted 
 Captain Rogers, that in the places where they had been above the town, 
 they had seen more than 300 armed horse and foot, in several parlies, so 
 that they apprehended the design of the enemy, in pretending to ransom, 
 was to gain time till able to attack them with great superiority of num- 
 bers. Hearing this, the English, for fear of a surprise, agreed to assem- 
 ble in a body at every alarm, which, on the sight of any large parties, 
 was beat several times in a day. Three drums, several swords and 
 lances, and a quantity of arms, five jars of powder, together with some 
 matches and shot, were found in the church, where Captain Ilogers also 
 found the corregidor's gold-headed cane, and another with a silver head ; 
 for among the Spaniards, none carry a cane but the chief officers ; and 
 no person must use one with a silver or gold head who is under the de- 
 gree of a captain. 
 
 About one in the afternoon of the 25th of April, the prisoners returned 
 \yith an offer of 30,000 pieces of eight, as a ransom for the town, ships, 
 and barks, to be paid within the space of twelve days ; which the cap- 
 tains did not approve, nor would they have waited so long for a much 
 larger sum, as they had received undoubted intelligence that the Spa- 
 niards had sent an express to Lima, to hasten the succours expected 
 thence. The captains, therefore, agreed upon sending this final answer ; 
 that the town should be set on fire, by three o'clock the next afternoon, 
 if sufficient hostages were not immediately delivered for the payment of 
 30,000 pieces of eight wiihin six days ; and that in the interim a cessa- 
 tion of arms should be granted. This day the enemy appeared thick in 
 the woods ; and in the afternoon an officer and nine men were engaged 
 at the north end of the town with a party of Spaniards, whom they drove 
 into the v/oods. But following them too far, they were attacked by 
 others, when one of the English was shot through the calf of the leg; 
 and another, who was endeavouring to recharge his piece, received a shot 
 upon the middle of hi?; po^e-axe that hung by his side, which made an 
 impression upon the irons and bruised the flesh directly under it, but did 
 no other material injury. The person who was shot in the leg, living 
 irregularly and drinking hard, fell mto a fever, which cost him his life. 
 
 They laid this night in the church, keeping sentinels round it, within 
 a musket-shot of each other, with a charge to challenge each other every 
 quarter of an hour : and every man to keep his arms and ammunition in 
 the most exact order, and be ready to rise at the least alarm. A French- 
 man, belonging to Captain Rogers's company, who, with some others, had 
 been sent to strengthen Captain Courtney's quarters, standing sentry in 
 'the night, shot one of the sailors dead. This accident was occasioned 
 by a strict order that had been given to .shoot every person in the night 
 who did not answer on being challenged, which, as the challenge was 
 given in French, the English sailor was not able to dov At two o'clock 
 in the afternoon of the 26 tb, the prisoners returned from the enemy, 
 
WOODES ROGERS. Ill 
 
 ■with two horsemen, who informed them their last proposal was agreed 
 to ; and that the Governor of Puna, who had been very iiistrumental in 
 bringing the affair to a conclusion, together with an old gentleman on 
 board one of the barks, were to remain as hostages for the performance 
 of it ; but the messengers said, that if these gentlemen were not thought 
 sufficient security, they themselves were willing to remain prisoners ; 
 which was not insisted upon, but they were permitted to return to the 
 camp, to bring back the agreement signed. 
 
 The two hostages lay this night at the English quarters, and the next 
 morning were put on board one of the ships, while the English retired 
 from the city with drums beating and colours flying, leaving the Spa- 
 niards at full liberty to return to their houses. Captain Rogers, who, 
 with a few men, brought up the rear, picked up many cutlasses, pole- 
 axes, and pistols, which the men, who were grown quite weary of a mili- 
 tary life, dropped through laziness as they marched. Their greatest 
 difficulty was in getting the guns down to the wator-side, the ground 
 being soft ; the men who helped to carry them sunk to the depth of half 
 a leg. To remedy as much as possible this inconvenience, they con- 
 trived a frame of bamboo canes, under which six men could stand, and 
 bear an equal weight on their shoulders. Though they were large four 
 pounders, the gun and frame not exceeding 1500 weight, yet they would 
 not have been able to have performed their work if the prisoners had not 
 assisted. 
 
 As Captain Rogers was marching out of the town, he missed one John 
 Gabriel, a Dutchman, whom he apprehended was either killed or made 
 prisoner : but the fellow had taken up his quarters in a certain house 
 where there was some excellent brandy ; of which he drank so freely, 
 that at last it laid him on the floor, and in this condition he was when 
 Captain Rogers and his men left the town. A little while afterward, the 
 master of the house returned, and found the Dutchman stretched at his 
 full length, and so dnmk that it was difficult to distinguish whether he 
 was dead or asleep. The Spaniard, however, determined to make the 
 experiment : but first of all called in his neighbours, who advised him to 
 secure the Dutchman's arms, which being done without any difficulty, 
 they then raised him up and sat him on his feet, when, after a little tot- 
 tering, he opened his eyes, and began to stare about him, not being very 
 well satisfied to find himself awake in such company. His landlord, 
 however, soon set his heart at rest, by restoring him his arms, and ad- 
 vising him to make all the haste he could to join his companions, who 
 were not yet embarked. There needed not much entreaty to set the 
 Dutchman forward ; he moved with all imaginable alacrity, and soon got 
 safe on board. Captain Rogers informs us this was the only man who 
 had drank to an extraordinary degree since their fir^ft entering the town. 
 The plunder they took, exclusive of the ransom received for the town, 
 was very considerable ; being about 230 bags of flour, beans, peas, and 
 rice, fifteen jars of oil, 160 jars of other liquors, some cordage, iron- 
 ware, and small nails, about four half-jars of powder, about a ton of 
 pitch and tar, a parcel of clothing and necessaries, about £1200 in plate, 
 ear-rings, &c., 150 bales of dry goods, four guns, about 200 ordinary 
 Spanish arms and musket barrels, a few packs of indigo, cocoa, and an- 
 natto, with about a ton of loaf sugar. They left abundance of goods in 
 the town, besides liquors of most sorts, and sea-stores, with several 
 ware-houses full of cocoa, several ships on the stocks, and two nevf 
 •hips unrigged lying at anchor. 
 
118 VOYAGtES ROTTND THE WORLD. 
 
 The hostages informed them that, during the treaty, 80,000 pieces of 
 eight, of the king's money, were sent out of the town, besides their 
 plate, jewels, and other things of the greatest value ; from which it ap- 
 pears, that if they had landed at first, and allowed the enemy no time, 
 they had been much greater gainers than they were ; and, in that case, 
 they were well assured they might have made to the value of 200,000 
 pieces of eight in money, plate, and jewels ; and yet the place was then 
 poorer than it had been for forty years past, having been almost burnt 
 down about a year and a half before, which had occasioned a very great 
 expense in the rebuilding. 
 
 Guaquil, the metropolis of a province of that name in Peru, is in 
 length about a mile and a half, and divided into two parts, called the 
 Old and New Town, which are joined by a bridge about half a mile long, 
 for the use only of foot passengers. On each side of the bridge are 
 some houses at a distance ; and the number of houses in both towns 
 amount to above 500 ; the inhabitants are about 2000. 
 
 Some of the houses were lofty brick-buildings, but the majority of tim- 
 ber or bamboos split, and many were decently furnished. In the mer- 
 chants' store-houses were great quantities of meal, brandy, sugar, clothing, 
 cordage, and iron. Some of the inhabitants had calashes, which could 
 be but of Uttle use, unless to carry them a stone's throw to church, for 
 the ground is so boggy, especially in winter, that no road could be made 
 for them. This morass-ground was full of large toads, some of them 
 as big as an English two-penny loaf. The town is governed by a cor- 
 regidor, who is the chief magistrate and appointed by the khig. It is 
 well situated for trade and ship building, lying seven leagues from Puna, 
 and fourteen from Punta Arena, upon a large river, which receives many 
 small ones that fall into it ; this river has many villages and farm-houses 
 on its banks, on which grow abundance of mangroves and sarsapariila, 
 which, impregnating its waters, are said to render them efficacious against 
 diseases. But when the floods come down from the mountains, the 
 water is reckoned unwholesome, on account of its bringing down several 
 poisonous plants and fruits, among which is the machanilla, a kind of 
 poisonous apple, which kills all birds that taste of it ; and the English, 
 while they were there, saw hundreds of them dead upon the water. 
 
 Captain Rogers took his leave of the barks a mile below the town, 
 with the pinnacq double manned, designing to get before them to the 
 ships at Punta Arena, The day proved excessively hot, and they saw 
 many alligators in the river. On the following day, which was the 28th 
 of April, Captain Rogers reached Puna, where he met Mr. Duck and Mr. 
 Hatley, in the Beginning, with an empty bark they had taken ; the Spa- 
 niards having gone on shore, and left her at anchor off Punta Arena. 
 The people left behind were much concerned at the delay of. their com- 
 panions, and the scarcity of water was so great that for some time past 
 the prisoners had been allowed but a pint a day. They had also been 
 obliged to sink a small prize which they had taken, to prevent the pri- 
 soners running away with her, as they could not spare hands sufficient 
 for manning her securely. 
 
 Captain Rogers got on board by daylight, and found his people hear- 
 tily rejoiced at his return, after an absence of twelve days, on an expe- 
 dition subject to so many dangers and difficulties, all of which he 
 had happily surmounted. Lieutenants Cooke and Fry had, during this 
 time, been under great uneasiness on account of the prisoners, to whom 
 they allowed their liberty in the day-time, but at night were shut up in 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 119 
 
 the forecastle, or between decks. On board the prize, which was not so 
 secure, they put them in irons every evening, atid set them free in the 
 morning ; but never allowed any correspondence between the prisoners 
 in the several ships, by which means they were ignorant of their own 
 strength and the weakness of their masters. 
 
 A vessel coming in sight about three in the afternoon of the 29th of 
 April, Captain Cook despatched the Havre de Grace's boat, well manned, 
 in pursuit, and she immediately surrendered. She proved to be a bark 
 of thirty tons burthen, laden with beans, peas, quinces, marmalade, 
 plums, apples, oranges, pomegranates, Guaquil sheep, 270 sacks of 
 flour, 200 sugar loaves, and some dried beef. She had six men on board, 
 besides the master ; had been out seven days from Pulania, where they 
 had left some stout French ships ; and orders had been lately received 
 from Lima, directing them to keep a good look-out, as an English squa- 
 dron was soon expected in those seas, but that it was not known against 
 what particular place they were bound. 
 
 They waited with impatience from this time to the 2d of May, in ex- 
 pectation of the ransom for the town of Guaquil, and they now began 
 to think that the corregidor meant to parley with them till forces should 
 arrive from Lima ; and the hostages expected no better fate than to be 
 carried prisoners to England. They w^ere in some degree relieved from 
 these uneasy reflections by the arrival of a boat in the evening, with 
 22,000 pieces of eight, in part payment ; upon which many of the pri- 
 soners were put on shore, and a message to the corregidor sent back by 
 the same boat, informing him they intended to sail the next day, and 
 would carry the hostages away with them, if the-remainder of the money 
 was not sent before their departure. In a short time after this, Captain 
 Courtney took charge of the Havre de Grace, and fell down with her to 
 Punta Arena, to which place Captain Rogers agreed to follow him the 
 next morning, waiting only to take on board some hogs, sheep, black 
 cattle, plantains, cocoas, water, sails, and other necessary matters, which 
 were still on shore. Before his departure he put on shore the governor 
 of Puna, who was one of the hostages, making him several presents. A 
 boat came on the next day, with some 3000 dollars more, and the persons 
 who brought it declared the remainder, and also 1200 dollars to trade 
 for goods, should soon come. But Captain Courtney being of opinion 
 this was only a pretence for detaining them till a squadron of ships 
 could be fitted out at Lima, insisted they should immediately quit this 
 station, in which he was seconded by a majority of the officers, on which 
 they resolved to make all possible despatch. The Beginning being small, 
 and of no farther use, they sold her to the Spaniards for about the value 
 of fifty pounds sterling, which was paid in gold chains, pearls, &c., and 
 they put the prisoners on board ; but kept the pilots, together with a 
 person who could speak English, the son of the President of Panama, and 
 three remaining hostages. 
 
 They now bore away for the Gallapagos islands, with a strong gale at 
 south-south-west; and, discovering land on the 17th, by daybreak next 
 morning were within four leagues of two large islands, nearly joined to- 
 gether. Having first agreed where to meet in case of separation, they 
 now sent their boat on shore twice in search of water, but she returned 
 with a melancholy account that none was to be found, and that the 
 island was nothing but loose earth, very rotten and heavy, which broke 
 like cinders under their feet ; and the ground was so parched that it 
 would not bear the weight of a man, which induced Captain Rogers to 
 
120 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 believe it had been a volcano, though, he says, there was some greens 
 and shrubs upon it. The Duchess having caught a considerable quan- 
 tity of turtle and other fish, distributed it on the 21st among the sick of 
 both ships, which, as their provisions were nearly exhausted, proved of 
 the utmost service. But their present unhappiness was not a little in- 
 creased, by finding the medicines begin to run shore, while the sick drop- 
 ped off apace ; it was observed that none died except those who were 
 on shore at Guaquil. 
 
 On the 22d Mr. Hatley, with five men on board one of the prize barks, 
 having water on board for only two days, together with a galleon, another 
 of the prize ships, were missing : nor was their any sign of their return- 
 ing, though lights were kept at the top-mast heads of the Duke and 
 Duchess all night, and guns continually fired. Captain Rogers, with the 
 Duke, the Havre de Grace, and the bark, went directly in search of them, 
 and came up wilh the galleon in a few honrs, near the easternmost island ; 
 but could obtain no intelligence of Hatley, whom they began to give up 
 for lost. It was agreed in a council of officers, on the 26th, to stand 
 over to the main in search of water, which could not be found on any of 
 the islands. On the 6th of June, a discourse was overheard by one of 
 the sailors, between the Indian and black prisoners, who proposed to 
 murder the English, and run away with the ship. On being charged 
 with it, they denied having designed any such thing ; but acknowledged 
 they had had some conversation of the kind, without, however, any seri- 
 ous intentions; to prevent any evil consequences that might arise from 
 these cabals, Captain Rogers divided them among the other ships. 
 
 On this day the Duchess, after a short chase, took a vessel of ninety 
 tons burthen, named the St. Thomas de Villa Nova, Juan Navarro Na- 
 va^et commander, bound from. Panama to Guaquil. There were on 
 board about forty passengers, among whom was Don Juan Cardosa, going 
 to take upon him the command of Baldivia, of which place he had been 
 appointed governor. On the 7th they anchored about a cable's length 
 from the shore, on the east side of the Island of Gorgona, and on the 8th 
 the boats of the Duke and Duchess seized a bark of fiiieen tons burthen, 
 called the Golden Sun, with ten Spaniards and Indians on board, toge- 
 ther with a few negroes. She had no cargo except a small quantity of 
 gold dust, and a large gold chain, with which they were going to Gua- 
 quil to purchase salt and brandy. On the 9th, in the evening, a council 
 of all the officers, except Captain Rogers, who was indisposed, was held 
 on board tho Duchess, wherein, after the prisoners had been examined, 
 it was resolved, from the accounts given of its situation and advantages, 
 to steer for the Island of Malaga, where they designed to leave their ships 
 in a safe road, and then row up the river in their boats, till enabled to 
 surprise some canoes, with which they might more effectually stem the 
 tides of the river. In these canoes they were to proceed to the golden 
 mines of Barbacore, or Juan, where they expected to find a considerable 
 booty, the Spaniards in that neighbourhood having no kind of intelligence 
 that an enemy was so near. 
 
 As Captain Rogers had previously agreed to yield his assent to what- 
 ever should be determined on, they made sail for Malaga about twelve 
 o'clock the same night ; but when acquainted with the result of their 
 deliberations, he determined to discourse with Mr. Morel, and some 
 other of the prisoners, of whose knowledge respecting the place of their 
 destination he was well assured. These informed him, that whoevei 
 advised the council to those measures now intended to be pursued, either 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 121 
 
 designed to ruin them, or were totally unacquainted with the affair ; for 
 the Island of Malaga was not only unfrequented and barren, but the road 
 extremely narrow and full of shoals ; that if the ships got over, which 
 could only be affected at spring tides, there was the utmost danger of 
 their being run ashore. They likewise said, the banks of the river all 
 the way up to St. Juan were well inhabited by a race of people strongly 
 attached to the Spaniards, who would take all possible measures to annoy 
 an enemy, particularly by their poisoned arrows, from the covert of the 
 woods ; and that the channel was so narrow, that by felling trees across, 
 they might effectually prevent the retreat of invaders, and cut them to 
 pieces. 
 
 The captain was so strongly affected with this information, and saw 
 the danger to which they were about to expose themselves in so clear 
 a light, that he immediately sent for Captains Courtney and Cook, and 
 acquainting them with what he had heard, they immediately changed 
 their course, in order to return to Gorgona, where it was determined 
 to careen and (it up the Havre de Grace as a twenty gun ship, to be 
 commanded by Captain Cook, and manned out of the Duke and Duch- 
 ess, to act as a third consort. Coming to an anchor on the 13th of June, 
 near the shore of Gorgona, in forty fathoms water, and having held 
 a committee, the Duchess was appointed to careen, and the Duke 
 to lie on guard, lest they should be surprised by an enemy. The latter 
 was also careened as soon as the forrner was turned out, so that in about 
 a fortnight they were again in prime order for sailing, to the great asto- 
 nishment of the Spaniards, who declared that the same operation on one 
 of the king's ships, at Lima, usually took up six weeks, though they had 
 all kinds of necessaries, and artificers ready to give their assistance. 
 
 The business which chiefly engaged them from the 29th of June to 
 the 9th of July, was fitting out the Havre de Grace, which being com- 
 pletely finished, they gave her the name of the Marquis. A good enter- 
 tainment being provided, they saluted each of the other ships with three 
 huzzas from on board her, distributed liquor among the company, drank 
 thfi healths of her majesty and their owners, and to their own joint suc- 
 cess. There were sent on board her two of the main-deck guns of the 
 Duke and two of the Duchess, which, with four taken at Guaquil, and 
 twelve already in her, made twenty good ones, the carriages all new, or 
 so well repaired as to be as strong and good as if mounted in England. 
 Her compliment of men was sixty-one, besides twenty negroes ; the 
 captain, officers, and men, were to be. allowed the same wages as those 
 in the other ships. The next thing of importance appeared to be getting 
 rid of the prisoners, who began to be a great burthen, and were of no 
 use. In a committee held on the 9th, it was agreed that Captain Dover, 
 Mr. Fry, and Mr. Stratton, with forty-five sailors under their command, 
 should have the care of transporting them to the continent, which was 
 immediately put in practice. The two Morels, Don Antonio, and Don 
 Juan Cardosa, were dismissed among the rest, and at their departure 
 appeared to be highly satisfied with the treatment they had met with ; 
 and the latter, in particular, was very ready to acknowledge this, as he 
 had been once very ill used by a Jamaica privateer, which he had fallen 
 in with not far from Porto Bello. 
 
 On the 18th, a negro, who had been bit by a speckled snake, died in 
 less than twelve hours, notwithstanding the utmost exertion of the sur- 
 geon's skill to save his life. There are great abundance of these snakes 
 on Gorgona, some of which are three or four vards long, and as thick as 
 
 11 
 
122 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a man's leg. They are of an amphibious nature ; and one having on the 
 same day conveyed himself on board the ship, by the help of the cable, 
 was killed upon the forecastle by the men. 
 
 On the 20th and 21st, two canoes came on board to trade, bringing 
 with them money, limes, fowls, and other provisions. Next day five of 
 the negroes belonging to the ship hid themselves in the woods, with a 
 view of deserting to the Spaniards as soon as their masters had left the 
 station ; but, one being retaken the same day, was severely punished ; 
 and three more being forced by hunger to quit their asylum, were taken 
 two days afterward. On the 27th the two Morels came on board again, 
 with what money they could raise, and told the captains, the country 
 beuig much alarmed, it was with great difficulty they had obtained leave 
 to come to them ; that the Governor of Barbacore, with 200 men, was at 
 the water- side to prevent trading, and to hinder their landing ; and all 
 the coast lined with men assembled for the same purpose. 
 
 A committee was held on board the Duke, in which it was agreed to 
 distribute rewards to those who had most distinguished themselves : when 
 Mr. James Stratton was allowed forty rupees : William Davis and Der- 
 rick Derrickson had twenty rupees each, (a rupee is about the value of 
 half a crown ;) the boat's crew that engaged the Marquis, when taken, 
 had two bales of baize, one of serges, and one of linen, to be sold by 
 them when and where they should think proper ; and to each of the 
 men who went up the river beyond Guaquil, a suit of clothes was given. 
 These rewards, over and above the respective shares of each man, were 
 given to encourage them to behave gallantly for the future ; but, notwith- 
 standing the generosity shown by the commanders on this occasion, a 
 dangerous mutiny was set on foot a few days afterward, which might 
 have proved of a very fatal consequence, had it not been discovered by 
 the steward of the Duchess. He accidentally overheard the ringleaders 
 holding a council on the manner in which they should proceed ; above 
 sixty had signed articles, by which they bound themselves to stand by 
 one another till they had obtained what they called justice, with respect 
 to the plunder, which they imagined had not been fairly distributed. 
 Four of the principal promoters of this destructive scheme, among whom 
 was the person who had drawn up the articles, were immediately se- 
 cured in irons ; but upon expressing their sorrow for the crime, asking 
 pardon, and promising to behave better for the future, were soon after- 
 ward set at liberty. The captains thought it most prudent to proceed in 
 a mild manner : for to have punished a few with great severity, when so 
 many were concerned, might have been attended with very disagreeable 
 cousequences. After this, affairs began to move once more in their 
 proper channel. 
 
 In a council of the principal officers of the three ships, held on board 
 the Duchess, on the 6th of August, they bound themselves by an oath 
 never to part company while there was a possibiUty of keeping together. 
 On the 7th it was agreed to give up to Messrs. Morel and Navarre their 
 respective ships, and such goods as were not worth carrying away, to- 
 gether with some negroes, which was done accordingly. With regard 
 to the effects in the bark, they agreed with M. Navarre for 12,000 pieces 
 of eight, which, with 3,000 that remained for the ransom of Guaquil, he 
 was to bring to ihem at Manta within twelve days. Captain Cook now 
 valued the money and plate on board, for the use of the owners, at 
 .€20,000, and the goods at £60,000. Among the prisoners on board 
 N?Tarre's ship, were several ladies who, at their departure, acknowledged 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 123 
 
 the civility with which they had been treated, which they said had much 
 exceeded what the English would have recieved from their countrymen 
 on a similar occasion. 
 
 The Island of Gorgona lies in 3 degrees north latitude ; it is three 
 leagues in length, lying north-east and south-west, very narrow, and about 
 six leagues from the continent. It is full of wood and tall trees, one of 
 which, called Palma-Maria, is proper for masts ; and from this tree issues 
 a balsam efficacious in several diseases. The island, at a di3t^nce, ap- 
 pears like three little hills ; and along the north side there is riding for 
 ships ; but in some places foul ground and shoals near the shore. Some 
 of the Duke's people caught here an ugly creature, supposed to be of 
 the monkey kind ; it in some degree resembled one of those animals, only 
 with hair thicker and longer ; its face, eyes, and nose were less, and 
 more wrinkled and deformed ; its ears were not so large, its teeth longer 
 and sharper ; its hinder parts more clumsy ; its body thicker in propor- 
 tion ; its tail very short ; besides, instead of five claws, like fingers, which 
 'a monkey has, this animal has only three on each paw, which are sharper 
 and longer. On letting this animal loose at the lower part of the mizzen- 
 shrouds, it was two hours in getting to the mast-head, which a monkey 
 would have performed in less than half a minute. It walked an equal 
 and slow pace, as if all its movements had been directed by clock-work. 
 The Spaniards with great propriety call it a Sloth, and say it feeds on the 
 leaves of a certain lofty tree, which when it has cleared, before it can get 
 down, walk to, and climb another, it becomes lean, and is almost starved. 
 
 Their business at Gorgona being finished, they sailed thence on the 
 17th of August, and on the lOlh Captain Rogers proposed to send the 
 Marquis to Brazil, to dispose of her cargo of prize goods and get fresh 
 provisions, while the Duke and Duchess should continue in their present 
 latitude, in expectation of the Manilla ship ; but his proposal was reject- 
 ed by the majority. On the 12th found themselves only thirteen leagues 
 off Gorgona, bearing south and by east. On the 18th the Duchess took 
 a bark of seventy tons burthen, bound from Panama to Lima; she had 
 nothing valuable on board, but twenty-four negroes, from whom they 
 learned that the whole coast was alarmed with their being in the South 
 Seas, and that ever since their taking of Guaquil, the inhabitants were 
 in the utmost apprehensions of a visit. 
 
 The two barks first entered the Bay of Tecames on the 25th of August, 
 and the consort ships anchored near them in a few hours afterward. It 
 was at this place that Sir Francis Drake took the valuable plate prize in 
 1578. Just as it grew dark, Mr. "White, the linguist, having ventured 
 ashore without orders with a Spanish prisoner, had like to have suffered 
 for his rashness ; for landing opposite some houses, several Indians at- 
 tacked them from an ambuscade with fire-arms, bows, arrows, and lances, 
 though they called out in Spanish, and said they were friends. They 
 had the happiness, however, to escape being shot, hiding themselves all 
 right in the wood, while the people on board imagined they were either 
 killed or taken prisoners ; but, at break of day, they ventured to call 
 again on the Indians, whom they prevailed on to trade, provided they could 
 obtain the consent of their padre, who lived at six leagues distance The 
 linguist informed them there was a padre on board, whom they desired to 
 «ee ; on which he was sent on shore, and wrote a letter to the priest of 
 the place, informing him how extremely well hunself and the other Spa- 
 nish prisoners were used, and earnestly recommending a trade. Through 
 the mediation of this friar, they promised that they would trade with 
 
124 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 them the next day, whether the padre gave his consent or not ; and the 
 Indians having accepted of a present of three images of saints, and a 
 feathered cap, to be given to the wife of their chief, they washed off tho 
 red paint with which they had daubed themselves, and wiiich, while they 
 wear, is to be considered as a declaration of war ; and then they sent 
 Captain Rogers a present of several bows and arrows. 
 
 VVhen the boat returned with the priest to the ship, he took with him 
 one of the Indians, who entered it with a look of astonishment, and being 
 much pleased with the great cabin, laid himself down on his side, gazing 
 wildly about for an hour together, till Captain Rogers, having given him 
 some old baize lor clothing, a few toys, and a dram of brandy, led hnn 
 out, and he was taken on shore. At night a letter was received from the 
 padre, allov;ing full permission to trade, and the next day they received 
 hogs and black cattle in exchange for baize. The boats were now sent 
 up a creek, laden with casks to be filled with fresh water, w^hen the peo- 
 ple meeting by chance with one of the chiefs of the Indians, who was 
 painted and armed with bows and arrows, he advised them to go highei* 
 up the river, or they would find the water brackish. For this kind advice 
 they offered him a dram out of a quart bottle of strong brandy, but taking 
 hold of the bottle, he drank the greater part of it at once, and departed 
 extremely well pleased, assuring them they should be supplied from the 
 village with whatever they wanted. The boats having brought a consi- 
 derable quantity of water, plantains, hogs, black cattle, and other provi- 
 sions, and the ships being heeled and cleaned, they set the priest on shore, 
 giving him, by way of acknowledgment, a black female slave, of whom 
 he appeared to be more fond than became liis character. They also sent 
 to the friar or priest of the village, in return for his kindness, a male negro 
 and a piece of baize. 
 
 They now put all their prisoners into an unrigged bark, leaving them at 
 liberty to run her on shore at high water, keeping with them only two of 
 the hostages, detained on account of the ransom of Guaquil not being 
 fully paid ; and these they determined to carry to England. The village 
 of Tecames lies in a boitom, close to the water-side, and consists only 
 of seven houses and a church ; the houses are built with split bamboos, 
 covered with palmetto leaves, and raised upon posts, with hog-sties be- 
 neath them, and they ascend to them by the help of pieces of wood 
 notched, instead of stairs. The inhabitants are barbarous and resolute, 
 using fire-arms and poisoned arrows in tiieir engagement, and are great 
 adepts at bush fighting. There is no dealing with them by compulsive 
 methods, and whoever is under the necessity of touching on this coast, 
 must endeavour to make them friends by gentle methods. The women 
 carry their children at their backs, and have no covering but a piece of 
 baize tied about their waist. A land-breeze generally springs up about 
 midnight, at south and by east, which dies away about noon ; and in the 
 afternoon a sea-breeze comes on, which continues at west and west-south- 
 west till midnight. From January till May they have light showers to the 
 northward, but from Jnne to December the weather is generally dry. 
 
 The three consort ships made one of the Gallapagos islands on the 10th 
 of September, where they continued for a week, taking in turtle and salt, 
 of both which there is great plenty. The Spaniards reckon fifty of these 
 islands, only one of which yields fresh water. They abound as well 
 with sea as land-birds ; and the latter are hawks and turtle-doves, which 
 are so tame as to suffer themselves to be knocked down with a stick. 
 The seals are so fierce as to attack any who happens to coiue in their 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 125 
 
 way, which Captain Rogers experienced : being on shore, one of the 
 animals advanced to him with all the rage of an incensed mastiff dog ; 
 the captam defended himself by sticking a pile he had in his hand into 
 the creature's breast, on which he retired a little, and then advanced 
 again, till he had recieved three several wounds, when he retreated to 
 the sea, snarling and showing his long teeth above the water. While 
 they remained here, ten negroes being sent on shore to cut firing, seven 
 of tliem deserted, into the woods. 
 
 They sailed on the 17th of September, and on the 4th of October 
 came up with the islands called Tres Marias, where they remained till the 
 24th, to take in wood and water and catch turtle : but it was not without 
 difficulty that they found a stream that was wholesome. All the springs 
 which they met with, two only excepted, out of which they supplied 
 themselves, being not only bitter, but violent purgatives, occasioned by 
 some neighbouring minerals of bitter roots. 
 
 Quitting these islands on the 25th of October, on the 1st of November, 
 being in latitude 22 degrees 55 minutes, discovered the land of California, 
 about eight leagues distant. On the I7th some Indians were discovered 
 at a distance on a bark-log, who paddled toward them : they were at first 
 afraid to approach, but were at length prevailed upon by a present of a 
 knife and some baize, for which they returned two live foxes, two blad- 
 ders of water, and some deer' skins. These people were quite naked, 
 and strangers to the European manner of trafficking. Some of the crew 
 ventured on shore on bark-logs, for the sea ran too high to attempt land- 
 ing in the boats. The good-natured natives leaped into the sea to guide 
 the bark-logs in the best manner they were able. On making the shore, 
 the Indians led each of the English up the bank, where was an old man, 
 with a deer's skin spread on the ground, on which they kneeled before 
 the English, who also kneeling, the Indians wiped the water off the faces 
 of the English with their hands. 
 
 This ceremony being ended, each of the sailors, supported by two of 
 the savages, was led through a narrow path, of about a quarter of a mile 
 in length, to their huts, where they were welcomed by the music of a 
 very uncouth instrument, being only two jagged sticks, which an Indian 
 rubbed across each other, and accompanied the noise with a voice still 
 more inharmonious than the sound of the instrument. They then all sat 
 down on the ground, and having been regaled with broiled fish, the In- 
 dians attended them back in the same manner with their music ; presenting 
 them with knives made of shark's teeth, and several other little curiosi- 
 ties, and permitting them to share in all they had, except their women, 
 children, and arms. Above 200 people inhabited the place where they 
 landed, and lived in huts made of boughs of trees, and leaves erected in 
 the form of bowers, with a fire before the door, round which they lay 
 anJ slept. 
 
 The men are straight, well built, have long black hair, and are of a 
 dark brown complexion. They live by hunting and fishing, and have a 
 greater esteem for European scissors, nails, and knives, than for silver 
 or gold. They use bows and arrows, and are such excellent marksmen, 
 as to be able to shoot a small bird flying. Their bows are made of a hard, 
 yet pliant wood, and are about six feet in length ; the string is made of 
 silk grass, and the arrov/s, which are four feet and a half long, are 
 made of a jointed cane, with four long feathers about a foot from the 
 notch for the string : at the other end is fixed a piece of hard wood, point- 
 ed with a sharp taper flint. The women, whose features are rather disa. 
 
 11* 
 
12G VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD- 
 
 greeable, are employed in making fishing lines, or in gathering grain, 
 which ihey grind upon a stone. They were willing to assist the English 
 in filling water, and would supply them with whatever they could get : 
 they were a very honest people, and would not take the least thing with- 
 * out permission. 
 
 In the Bay of Puerto Seguro there are great numbers of albacores, 
 mullets, dolphins, bream, and other fish, which the natives are extremely 
 expert at striking with wooden instruments from their floats, which are 
 made of five pieces of wood, and are moved with short paddles. From 
 these floats they would often leap, and strike th^ fish when near the 
 bottom of the water. They also dive and fetch up pearl oysters from 
 the rocks. Some of the sailors informed Captain Rogers they saw one 
 of them dive with instruments, and while he was under water, put up 
 his striker with a fish upon the point of it, which was taken oflf by ano- 
 ther, who attended his motions on a bark-log. This the captain was the 
 rather induced to believe, because he himself had thrown some rusty 
 knives overboard on purpose to try the skill of these excellent divers ; and 
 they seldom missed catching the knife before it was more than three or 
 four fathoms under water. 
 
 By this time they all began to despair of taking the Manilla ship, it 
 being a month beyond her usual time of passing that way ; till, on the 
 21st of December, aboiit nine in the morning, the man at the mast-head 
 cried out he saw a sail, at the distance of seven leagues ; but, as they 
 had little wind, did not come up with her till the next day, when Captain 
 Rogers, having no spirituous liquors on board, ordered a large kettle of 
 chocolate to be made for the ship's company, and, after prayers, began 
 the engagement. The Duchess being considerably to leeward, the ene- 
 my fired her stern-chase first, which the Duke returned with her fore- 
 chase ; and then getting close on board her, gave her several broadsides, 
 at the same time plying their small arms very briskly, which the Spa- 
 niards for a while returned, and then struck her colours just as the 
 Duchess had come up, and fired five guns and a volley of small shot. 
 They then sent the pinnace on board the enemy, and brought the captain, 
 with the officers, away ; having examined them, found that a larger ship 
 had come out of Manilla at the same time, but she being a better sailer, 
 had parted company three months before. The Spaniards in this en- 
 gagement lost nine men, and had several wounded. On the part of the 
 English, one man was Vvounded, besides Captain Rogers, who received 
 a shot through the left cheek, which carried away a great part of his up- 
 per jaw and several of his teeth, some of which dropped on the deck 
 where he feh. This prize was called Nuestra Senora de la Incarnation, 
 commanded by Sir John Pichberty, a gallant Frenchman ; and the pri- 
 soners said that the cargo in India amounted to 3,000,000 of dollars, slffe 
 carried 193 men, and mounted twenty guns. 
 
 On Christmas day the Duches sand Marquis went out of the harbour 
 to cruise for the great Manilla ship ; and on the same day two sentinels 
 were posted on the top of a hill, from whence they had a good view of 
 the sea, with instructions that if they saw three sail of ships in the off- 
 ing, they should wave their colours three times. On the 26th, in the 
 afternoon, the sentries made three wafts, on which they instantly put all 
 the prisoners, amounting to 170, on board the bark, without arms, rudder, 
 sails, or a boat ; and leaving twenty-two hands to guard them, Captain 
 Rogers, who was still in a very weak condition, got under sail at seven 
 in the evening, and continued the chase all night and next day ; but ha 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 137 
 
 ving little wind, did not come up with them till the day after ; and, as the 
 other sliips had engaged the enemy several times in the interim, the 
 Marquis was by this time disabled. He, however, instantly engaged, and 
 the attack was frequently renewed, till a chest of arms and cartoach box 
 took fire, and all the three ships were damaged : when.it was determined, 
 considering the number of the enemy's men and the force of the ship, 
 to pursue her no farther. In this bloody engagement the English lost 
 many of their men, and Captain Rogers was again wounded, having the 
 heel-bone of his left foot taken off by a splinter. Thus ended the fruit- 
 less attempt on this large ship ; after which they returned to the harbour 
 of Puerto Seguro, spending some days in refitting and taking in wood 
 and water. For some time past, they had been at short allowance of 
 bread, but had the happiness to find such a quantity on board the Manilla 
 ship, which they had taken, as, with their former stock, they hoped would 
 serve them in the long run which they intended to take across the South 
 Sea. On the 1st of January, the bark, with Captain Pichberty, the hos- 
 tages, <S6C., being well supplied with a stock of provisions and water, 
 sailed from Puerto Seguro ; and Pichberty, together with his officers and 
 chaplain, acknowledged, with the utmost gratitude, the civility shown 
 them, in having all their books, clothes, and instruments restored. 
 
 A few days afterward, a committee of officers was held, in which the 
 majority appointed Captain Dover to the command of the prize, which 
 was named the Batchelor frigate ; but against this nomination, Captain 
 Rogers, v/ho had a very indifferent opinion of Mr. Dover's abilities as a 
 sea-officer, entered a solemn protest, which was also subscribed by the 
 principal officers on board the Duke. To prevent, however, the incon- 
 veniences that might arise from heart-burnings and the encouragement 
 of disputes among each other, a new committee was appointed to be held, 
 wherein it was determined that Captain Dover should be considered as 
 chief captain on board the prize, but without any power with regard to 
 sailing, engaging, or other affairs immediately respecting the ship ; thfi 
 care of which was committed to Mr. Fry and Mr. Stratton ; while Do- 
 ver was to see that nothing was done contrary to the interest of the 
 owners. It was now determined that, as their business in those seas 
 was pretty well at an end, they should prepare to sail for the East Indies. 
 In case of separation, the place of rendezvous should be Guam, one of 
 the Ladrone islands. 
 
 They weighed from the Port of Seguro on the 10th of January, but 
 were becalmed under the shore till the 12th, in the afternoon, when a 
 breeze sprung up, which ran them out of sight of land. 
 
 On the lOlh of^ March, made the Islands of Serpana and Guam, and 
 anchored near the latter in twelve fathoms water, the natives continually 
 passing them in their proas, with astonishing swiftness, but none would, 
 on any account, be prevailed upon to come on board. As there was now an 
 >absolute necessity for procuring a supply of provisions to prevent them 
 from starving, not having, at the shortest allowance, bread and flour suffi- 
 cient for fourteen days, they determined, if possible, to get some of the 
 inhabitants on board and detain them as hostages, in case they should 
 be under tke necessity of sending any of their people to the governor. 
 In consequence of this resolution, they seized two Spaniards, who hailed 
 them, and came on board, on a supposition that the English came from 
 New Spain. They detained one of these by way of hostage, and sent 
 two linguists ashore with the other, who carried a letter to the governor 
 pf the place, in which they demanded liberty to deal, in a peaceable man- 
 
128 VOYAOESf ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ner, for provisions and refreshments, for which they promised not only 
 to pay immediately, but to behave in all other respects in a friendly man- 
 ner ; and threatened, if the request was refused, they would act openly 
 as enemies, a proceeding which, however, they wished rather to avoid. 
 
 On the 11th, in the morning, the Duke's pinnace was sent on shore 
 with a flag of truce ; and the islanders behaved with the utmost friend- 
 ship to the crew, promising to supply them plentifully with provisions, 
 provided the governor would give permission. About noon a letter was 
 brought on board by the linguists, accompanied by three Spanish gentle- 
 men, in which the governor obligingly promised to accommodate them 
 with whatever the island produced. A suitable answer to this obliging 
 letter was immediately sent to his excellency, signed by all the captains, 
 expressing their own thanks and those of the crews foar hi& polite and 
 friendly oifer. On the 13th, each ship was supplied with a bullock, be- 
 sides limes, oranges, cocoa nuts, and other fruits ; and an entertainment 
 provided on board the Batchelor for several Spanish gentlemen, at which 
 all the officers of the several ships were present, not excepting Captain 
 tain Rogers, who was unable to go on board without being hoisted up and 
 down in a chair. On the morning of the 16th, several of the officers 
 went in the pinnace, to dine with the governor on shore, agreeable to in- 
 vitation. On their landing, they were received by 200 men drawn up in 
 order, while the clergy and other principal people of the island attended 
 to conduct them to the governor's house, which, considering its situation^ 
 is a very noble building. They were here treated with the utmost friend- 
 ship and respect, treated with at least sixty different dishes, and, when 
 they departed, were saluted with a volley of small arms. In return for 
 these civilities, they made the governor a present of twenty yards of scar- 
 let serge, six pieces of cambric, and two negro boys, dressed in liveries. 
 
 The Island of Guam is about forty leagues in circumference ; the 
 anchoring place is on the west side, and about the middle there is^ a hrge 
 cove, with several houses, built in the Spanish fashion, with accommo- 
 dations for the officers and crew of the Acapulco ship ; the settlement 
 here having been made on purpose for that ship to refresh, and take in 
 necessaries in her passage to Manilla. On this, and the neighbouring 
 islands, are about 300 Spaniards, who have converted most of the na- 
 tives to the Roman Catholic religion. There were at this time eight 
 priests, six of whom kept schools, besides performing their offices as 
 clergymen. T"hey had schools also taught by mulattoes and Indians, 
 who had attained to a knowledge af the Spanish language, which is un- 
 derstood by most of the natives. The island, which is full of hills, val- 
 leys, and streams of good water, produces oranges, lemons, citrons, 
 muskmelons, and watermelons, which were originally brought thither by 
 the Spaniards, besides the bread fruit, the cocoa nut, and other fruits 
 natural to the soil and climate. Of the exotics, oranges in particular 
 thrive vory well. 
 
 The native Indians are strong and tall, and go naked, except a kind 
 of clout worn by the men, and a shoit petticoat by the women, round 
 their middle. The men burn small lumps of clay, of an oval form, till 
 they are as hard as marble, which they are extremely dexterous at sling- 
 ing ; and the Spaniards say, that they seldom miss hitting a mark, and 
 throw with such force as to kill a man at a considerble distance. The 
 most remarkable thing on the island is the bread fruit, which resembles 
 an orange, and when ripe is about three times as big. The leaves are 
 of a brown CQlour, about as large, and not unlike thQse of the fig tre^. 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 129 
 
 The people have no other weapons but a stick or lance, which is made 
 of the heaviest wood that grows on the island. The governor made 
 Captain Rogers a present of one of their flying proas, which the Spa- 
 niards said would run twenty leagues in an hour ; this account was pro- 
 bably exaggerated, but Captain Rogers says, that from what he saw, they 
 may run twenty miles or more in that space of time ; for when the na- 
 tives came in these vessels to take a view of the ships, they passed by 
 thfim like a bird flying. t 
 
 They got under sail from Guam on the 2lst of March, having first ta- 
 ken in plenty of wood and water, and each ship received its proportion 
 of provisions, which, in that commanded by Captain Rogers, amounted 
 to sixty hogs, fourteen small bullocks, ninety-nine fowls, twenty-four 
 baskets of Indian corn, forty-four baskets of yams, fourteen bags of rice, 
 and 800 cocoa nuts. On the 14th of April, being in 23 degrees north 
 latitude, they came so near to three water spouts, that one of them had 
 like to have broke over the Marquis ; but it was happily dispersed by 
 two shots from the Duchess. Soon afterward the Marquis and the 
 Batchelor received considerable damage in their rigging by a violent 
 storm, which lasted four or five days ; and these vessels being both but 
 indifferent sailers, were a considerable hindrance to the voyage, which 
 was rendered very fatiguing to the crew of the Duke, who were con- 
 tinually obliged to ply their pumps, on account of having sprung a leak, 
 which at present they had no opportunity of stopping. Having coasted 
 for several days along the high-lands of New Guinea, they, on the 25th 
 of May, made Bouton, to whiclu island the Duke and Duchess imme- 
 diately sent their pinnaces, which soon returned with plenty of cocoa 
 nuts, and reported the inhabitants, who spoke the Malayan tongue, were 
 civil and hospitable. At this ticne they endeavoured in vain to find 
 ground proper to anchor in, though the Duke sounded with a line of 
 eighty fathoms, and run her bowdprit almost on shore. In the interim 
 the inhabitants came off in canoes, bringing with them fowls, Indian 
 corn, cocoa nuts, pompions, &c., which they exchanged for goods with 
 the sailors. Captain Rogers sent some of the officers in the yawl and 
 pinnace to land, where the king and his nobility received them in a very 
 hospitable manner, and promised they should be supplied with such neces- 
 Karies as the place aflforded. His majesty and all his attendants were 
 bare-footed, and had no other covering than a cloth wrapped round the 
 middle. 
 
 After sounding for three or four days, as they cruised round the head 
 lands, they at length got anchoring ground in between thirty and forty 
 fathoms water, and the Duke and Duchess came to their moorings. About 
 this time the Duke's boat, which had been sent on shore, returned with 
 some Malays in a canoe, who, by presents, had been prevailed upon to 
 come on board ; but these people were of no use, there being no person 
 on board who could understand them ; and Captain Dover, who had a 
 linguist, refused to lend him, notwithstanding the evident necessity of 
 the case. Neither would the Malays be prevailed upon to go on board 
 the Batchelor, she being in danger of running on the shoals, though Cap 
 tain Rogers treate I them with sweetmeats ; but, on their quitting the 
 Duke, they made signs, pointing to the land which lay to the northward, 
 which they called Bootoo. Captain Dampier having formerly been through 
 the straits of Bouton, was examined respecting his knowledge of the 
 place, but he seemed to remember very little of it. However, on the 
 29th of May it was agreed to send him, together with Mr. Vanburgb, 
 
130 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD 
 
 Mr. Connelly, and the linguist, by way of deputation to the king, de- 
 siring a supply of provisions, for which they v/ould very readily pay. His 
 majesty received these gentlemen in a courteous manner, and seemed 
 pleased with the samples shown him of such goods as they chose to ex- 
 change for provisions ; and was exceedingly delighted with a bishop's 
 miire, sent him as a present. The inhabitants now began to flock on 
 board, bringing fowls, Indian corn, and cocoa nuts, to exchange with the 
 English, but they demanded too high a price for them. 
 
 On the 1st of June Dampier returned from the town in the pinnace, 
 bringing a mysterious account of the proceedings on shore, and a small 
 quantity of provisions, as a present to the captains ; but the two other 
 -officers remained behind, to despatch what they could agree for. Several 
 of the inhabitants, with a Portuguese linguist, came from the town next 
 day, under pretence of looking at the goods and carrying samples to the 
 king ; but Captain Rogers and the rest of the gentlemen began to be 
 afraid, by their thus trifling, that they should get nothing of them at last ; 
 and, therefore, sent the Duchess's pinnace to hurry away the officers as fast 
 as possible, with what provisions they had got. The country ptcple bad 
 pretty well supplied them by the 4th, and, therefore, they were determined 
 to waste no more time in that place, but sail immediately for Batavia. 
 
 On the 5th Mr. Connelly returned in the pinnace, and informed them 
 the king wished to compel them to take a quantity of provisions at an 
 exorbitant price, and meant to detain Mr. Vanburgh till the money was 
 paid. The same day several of the nobility came on board with four 
 lasts of rice and a cask of arrack, which was immediately agreed for. 
 As soon as they were departed, the Portuguese linguist came to dispose 
 of some provisions of his own ; but as he brought no news of the English 
 on shore, a suspicion began to arise that some mischief was intended ; 
 and, therefore, determined to keep him till the boat returned. They the 
 rather chose to fix on him, as he was of such use to the king in all com- 
 mercial matters that he could not possibly be spared ; but the Portuguese, 
 being apprehensive of their design, got out of the ship into his own canoe, 
 rowing away as fast as possible, till overtaken by the yawl. On this all 
 the people who worked in the canoe jumped into the sea, but were taken 
 np by the Duchess's pinnace, and the linguist was once more brought on 
 board, where, finding himself likely to be detained, he despatched his 
 eanoe to the king, desiring that the English might be immediately dis- 
 missed. Upon this, Mr. Vanburgh and the sailors with him came on 
 board on the 7th, having parted with the king in a very friendly manner ; 
 but he could not prevail upon his majesty to furnish them with a pilot 
 to conduct them through the straits, at any rate. On Mr. Vanburgh's 
 coming on board the linguist was immediately dismissed. 
 
 The Island of Bouton is near thirty leagues in length, and is situated 
 in 5 degrees ^0 minutes south latitude. The inhabitants say, that all 
 the adjacent islands are subject to their king, who can raise 50,000 men. 
 They are well made people, of the middle size, have very indifferent 
 features, and a dark olive complexion. They speak the Malay language, 
 and profess the Mahometan religion, of which, however, they know very 
 little, except bathing, abstaining from swine's flesh, and having a number 
 of wives. The only spice produced on this island is a few nutmegs ; 
 and the inhabitants are not afraid of the Dutch, against who.m their po- 
 verty is a sufficient security. 
 
 They weighed anchor from the Island of Bouton on the 8th of J'jne, 
 and the next day came up with a vessel bound for Macassar, a Dutch 
 
WOODES ROGERS. 131 
 
 settlement on the south part of Celebes. The master, who was a Malay, 
 promised to pilot them not only through the straits, but even to Batavia, 
 for a small gratuity, provided it was kept secret from the Dutch ; and the 
 captain readily agreed lo his demands, this being a happy incident in their 
 favour, as thereby they avoided several dangerous shoals, the shunning 
 of which properly is best known to the Holland traders. On the 17th, 
 hailed a Dutch ship, of 600 tons, and fifty guns, by whom they were in- 
 formed that Prince George of Denmark was dead, and that the powers 
 of Europe were still at war. On the 20th, entered the road of Batavia, 
 and came to an anchor in about six fathoms water, among upward of thirty 
 sail of ships. Two days afterward the captains waited on the governor, 
 who, having examined and approved of their commission as private ships- 
 of-war, promised them all possible assistance, but was not over scrupulous 
 in keeping his- word ; for it was a considerable time before they could 
 obtain leave to careen their vessels ; but, at length, on the 23d of July, 
 they hove-down upon Horn Island. They were obliged to buy provisions 
 at most extravagant prices, and though having an audience with the go- 
 vernor was unnecessary on several occasions, they could never obtain it 
 without bribing his guards and secretary, nor was it always that even this 
 method was efficacious. Indeed, this is the case at almost all the Dutch 
 settlements, where the chief people treat the captains of the English 
 ships as enemies, while they receive them with all the outward appear- 
 ance of friendship. 
 
 Horn Island being a very inconvenient place to careen at, the com- 
 manders petitioned the governor for leave to perform that business at 
 Unherst, which is the place where the Dutch careen their vessels ; but 
 this was a favour they could not on any terms obtain, nor even the as- 
 sistance of the Dutch carpenters ; so that they were compelled to employ- 
 eight or ten Malay carpenters. That the government might complete 
 their oppressive measures, they absolutely forbade any of the people to pur- 
 chase the Marquis, which the captains had agreed to sell ; so that they 
 were obliged to part with her to the first English bidder, who happened 
 to be Captain Opey, of the Oley frigate, from London, who bought her 
 at the low price of 575 Dutch dollars. Durmg this stay at Batavia, 
 Captain Rogers, who recovered his health but very slowly, had a musket 
 shot cut out of his cheek, which the surgeon had hitherto mistaken for 
 a piece of his broken jaw, and had also several splinters extracted from 
 his heel. Several of the men were here carried off by tiuxes, which the 
 water of this island is apt to occasion ; and yet they took care to correct 
 its ill qualities with a sufficient quantity of arrack and sugar, the last 
 article of which they purchase at one penny per pound, and the other at 
 eight pence the gallon. The officers and men having supplied themselves 
 with such necessaries as they wanted, and a proper stock of provisions 
 being laid in, they left Batavia on the 12th of October, and sailed for the 
 Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 On the 17th, having taken in wood and water at Java Head, within 
 Prince's Island, they proceeded on their voyage, and came to an anchor 
 in the cape harbour on the 28th orf December. The English saluted the 
 Dutch fort with nine guns ; which compliment was returned with seven. 
 At this place they waited for the convoy of the Dutch fleet to Europe 
 till the begmning of April, and though Captaui Rogers strongly opposed 
 tnis delay, a majority of the committee of officers carried it against him. 
 On the 5th of April the Dutch admiral hoisted a blue flag, and loosed 
 his fore-topsail, as a signal to unmoor ; and the next day the whole fleet, 
 
132 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLP. 
 
 consisting of sixteen Dutch and nine English ships, sailed with a fresh 
 breeze at south-south-east. Captain Rogers remarks, that during the 
 whole voyage from the eape to Holland, the most exact discipline was 
 observed by the fleet, and the utmost respect paid to the admiral, though 
 he only commanded a trading vessel, which had been to the East Indies 
 on the Dutch East India con^ipany's account. This admiral is represented 
 as a man of great abilities and good nature, and particularly .respectful to 
 the English, frequently entertaining the captains on board his own ship. 
 On the 23d of July they arrived in the Texel, on which the Dutch fired 
 all their guns, and the English complimented the admiral with several 
 rounds of cannon. In the afternoon of the 24th, Captain Rogers went up 
 to Amsterdam to buy provisions for the ship, and transact other necessary 
 business. They sailed from the Texel on the 22d of September, and on 
 the 2d of October, 1711, came to the moorings in the Downs, where some 
 of their owners came on board to congratulate them on their safe arrival. 
 
 CAPTAIN JOHN CLIPPERTON.— 1719-22. 
 
 About the beginning of the year 1718, some English merchants, fore- 
 seeing it could not be long before there would be war between England 
 and Spain, resolved to fit out two ships for the South Seas, in hopes they 
 might make as successful a voyage as the Duke and Duchess, under the 
 command of Captain Rogers. Two ships were accordingly provided, 
 one called the Success, the other the Speedwell. The command of the 
 former was given to Captain Clipperton, who had been with Dampicr ; 
 and Captain Shelvock, formerly lieutenant in the royal navy, was ap}>ointed 
 to command the latter, having under him, as second captain, Mr. Simon 
 Hatley, the same person whom Captain Woodes Rogers lost among the 
 Gallapagos islands, and who was a prisoner among the Spaniards for a 
 considerable time afterward. The instructions the captains received were, 
 to proceeds immediately to Plymouth, and to sail thence with the first 
 fair wind for Cape Horn, or the straits of Magellan, and then, either to 
 double the cape, or pass through the straits, as should be most conve- 
 nient. After this, to sail into the South Seas, cruise on the coast of 
 Chili, Peru, and Mexico, and endeavour to meet the Acapulco ship. To 
 be careful, above all things, not to seperale from each other ; to under- 
 take nothing of importance without holding a council of officers, stating 
 the question in writing that was to be debated, drawing up the resolution, 
 with the reasons upon which it was grounded, in concise terms, and 
 obliging every officer present to sign it. They were also to call a council 
 in the same manner, as soon as possible, after any action had happened, 
 or any prize of consequence taken, in which the conduct of the officers 
 concerned might be examined, and a true judgment of it immediately 
 passed, which was to be subscribed by the persons assisting at the council. 
 
 At length, on the 13th of February, 1719, they sailed from Plymouth 
 with a fair wind, but the whole stock of wine, brandy, and other liquors, 
 for the use of both ships, was still on board the Speedwell ; and how fatal 
 a mistake it was not to divide it before this lime will soon appear. On 
 the 15i,h, had squally weather with rain ; in the evening, unbent the best 
 and small bowers in the Success, stowed their anchors, and found them- 
 selves often obliged to shorten sail for the Speedwell. Captain Shelvock 
 came this day under the lee of the Success, and complained to Captain 
 Chpperton of the crankness of his ship, which proceeded from having 
 
JOHN CLIPPERTON. 133 
 
 too much weight aloft ; and, therefore, desired him to send for his wine 
 and brandy, which would give him an opportunity of striking down some 
 of his guns into the hold. This was not done, which, if it is a proof of 
 Captain Clippcrton's negligence, is also a proof he had no suspicion of 
 Shelvock's leaving him, and that, on his part, he had no intention to de- 
 sert the Speedwell. 
 
 Between nine and ten o'clock at night, on the 19th, there arose a fresh 
 breeze, so as to oblige both ships to take in their topsails. The gale 
 increasing, the Success made a signal for the Speedwell to bring-to, which 
 Shelvock readily obeyed, and by seven o'clock both ships were under bare 
 poles, nor able to bear a rag of canvass during the night. On the 20th, 
 about two in the afternoon, the storm abated, when Clipperton made sail, 
 steering south and by east, whereas Shelvock stood away to the north- 
 west, so that from this day they never saw each other till they met by 
 accident in the South Seas. Here, then, properly begins the history of 
 the former's voyage round the world in the Success. 
 
 The Canaries being the first place appointed for a rendezvous, he 
 sailed thither with such expedition as to arrive on the 5th of March, and 
 having taken on board refreshments, continued, agreeable to his instruc- 
 tions, to cruise in that station fOr ten days, in hopes of seeing his con- 
 sort. Being disappointed, he determined to continue his voyage, lest he 
 should miss her at the next place of reridezvous, which was the Cape de 
 Verde islands, and accordingly left Gomera on the 15th, in order to be 
 early at his ne.'it station. 
 
 On the 21st, in the evening, they saw St. Vincent, one of the Cape 
 de Verdes, and next morning anchored in the bay. They remained here 
 ten days, in hopes of meeting their consort, but in vain, which so dis- 
 couraged the crew, that Captain Clipperton found it no easy matter to 
 engage them to continue the voyage. These islands, which the Dutch 
 call the Salt islands, from the great quantities of it found there, were 
 discovered by the Portuguese in the year 1572. They are ten in number, 
 viz , St. Jago, St. Lucia, St. Vincent, St. Antonio, St. Nicholas, Blanca, 
 De Sal, Maio, De Fogo, arrd Bonavista. They extend from the Green 
 Cape 160 leagues into the sea. 
 
 On the 29th of May, found themselves in 52 degrees 15 minutes south 
 latitude, being off Cape Virgin Mary, the north point of the entrance of 
 the straits of Magellan ; and the next day entered the straits, and sail- 
 ing up as far as Queen Elizabeth's Island, sent their pinnace on shore 
 to a fresh water river, which was at this time frozen up. On the 22d, 
 atichored in a fine bay, which, from its depth, they called No-Bottom 
 Bay : the trees on the shore of which were very high, and so loaded 
 with snow as to atford an astonishing prospect. 
 
 A canoe came otT on the 29th, with two men, a woman, and a boy ; 
 they were of a middle stature and dark complexions ; their faces round, 
 their foreheads low, their hair black, straight, and short ; and they had 
 no clothing except a piece of skin about the waist. They had a remark- 
 able fine streak, of a bright blue colour, round their wrists ; and the men 
 were so extremely jealous, that they could by no means be prevailed on 
 to let the women go on board. They brought wild geese and ducks, 
 wiiich were e.xchangeJ for knives, and had a fire in the middle of their 
 canoe, the latter being built of the bark of trees sewed together. They 
 bad also with them bows and arrows, and implements for fishing. 
 
 Or) the 20th of July some persons were sent in the pinnace, in order 
 to make a discovery of a passage which a French Tartan is said to have 
 
134 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 went through into the South Sea, in May, 1713 ; they returned on the 
 29th, having found the passage, but so narrow it was judged hazardous 
 to attempt going that way. On the morning of the 1st of August, four 
 officers went to look for this passage a second time. After the strictest 
 examination, they could not find that it led into the South Seas ; and, 
 even it it had, the passage was so contracted that the ship could not 
 have gone through it. They, therefore, resolved to prosecute their voy- 
 age through the straits, which, with much danger and difficulty, they at 
 length accomplished, being all the way at short allowance. 
 
 They arrived in the South Seas on the 18th of August, but in so weak 
 a condition that it was impossible for them to undertake anything of 
 consequence ; besides. Captain Clipperton was resolved, in pursuance to 
 his instructions, to steer for the Island of Juan Fernandez, the third and 
 last place appointed for a rendezvous. Here they cast anchor on the 7th 
 of -September, and sent persons on shore to search for some testimony 
 of the Speedwell's having been there, but met with no success. Cap- 
 tain Clipperton, therefore, ordered an inscription to be cut on a remark- 
 able tree, fronting the landing place ; so that it was impossible for any 
 ship's crew to go on shore and not see it. The inscription ran thus : 
 " Captain John W. Magee, 1719." This William Magee was sur- 
 geon on board the Success, and was a person extremely well known to 
 Captain Shelvock and all his ship's company. 
 
 They took a great number of goats here, which not only served for 
 present eating, but likewise to increase their sea-store, having an oppor- 
 tunity of salting them from some French vessels which had lately touch- 
 ed at the island, leaving a considerable quantity of salt, which they had 
 made there, behind. They also took in wood and water, and repaired 
 their ship for a cruise in the South Seas, where it v/as now apparent they 
 were to act alone, and Captain Clipperton gave it as his opinion that the 
 Speedwell was lost ; which, if not his real sentiments, he said so to pa- 
 cify the sailors, some of whom, with their dying breaths, cursed Shelvock 
 for running away with their liquors. The beauty and fertility of this 
 island, compared with the difficulties they expected to encounter in the 
 South Seas, tempted four of the men to run away from the ship and fly 
 to the mountains. As they were in want of hands, and as it would have 
 been inhuman to leave them behind, the captain gave orders to make 
 diligent search for them, but for some time without effect. 
 
 At length, the day before the ship was to leave the island, some of the 
 officers went in the pinnace to look for these men, who had now been 
 absent a fortnight ; and sailing round to the east part of the island, found 
 two in custody of the goat hunters, who had met with them while in the 
 pursuii of their game ; and who affirmed, that they had more difficulty 
 in securing these fellows, than in killing double the number of goats, 
 having been obliged to fire several times before they would surrender. 
 The prisoners said, that for the first five days they were hard put to it, 
 being obliged to subsist wholly on the cabbage trees, with which the 
 island abounds; but having one night, by good fortune, discovered a fire 
 left by the hunters, they dressed some meat by it, and ate plentifully. 
 All the rest being on board and mustered, they prepared to sail on the 
 7th of October ; in the meantime, a person went on shore in the long- 
 boat to erect a cross, which had been already cut for that purpose. At 
 the foot of the cross a bottle was buried, in which was a letter directed 
 for Captain Shelvock, appointing another place of rendezvous, and some 
 signal by which they should know each other at sea. 
 
JOHN CLIPPERTON. 135 
 
 On the 8th of October, at eight o'clock in the morning, weighed from 
 the Island of Juan Fernandez, leaving behind two of the deserters, whom 
 they had not been able to find. On the 25th of October, chased a small 
 vessel, which they soon came up with and took ; she proved, however, 
 a very indifferent prize, being a snow of forty tons burthen, laden with 
 sand and rubbish for manure ; but next day they met with a better prize 
 in a ship called the St. Vincent, of 150 tons, laden with wood, from 
 Gnaquil. On the 30th, took a large ship bound from Panama to Lima, 
 called the Trinity, burthen 400 tons, and had been taken by Captain 
 Rogers, when he plundered Guaquil, several years before ; she had 
 many passengers on board, and her lading was of very considerable va- 
 lue. On the 3d of November, took a vessel of seventy tons, on board of 
 which was the Countess of Laguna and several other passengers, a great 
 quantity of ready money, and upward of 400 jars of wine and brandy, 
 articles they much wanted. The captain offered the countess her choice, 
 to remain on board the prize, or to accept such accommodations as he 
 was able to afford on board the Success ; and, as she preferred the 
 former, he sent an officer of marines, with a guard, on board the prize, 
 to prevent her being molested. On the 12lh, discovered a vessel at 
 some distance, of 200 tons burthen, and bound from Panama to Lima, with 
 a lading of wood, which, though of very little value to them, they took. 
 
 On the 24th of November, took a prize of about 200 tons burthen, 
 laden with wood, from Panama to Lima, having on board forty negroes, 
 and thirty Spaniards, chiefly passengers. On the 27th, came to an an- 
 chor with all the prizes at the Island La Plata, where the captain began 
 seriously to consider how he should make the voyage turn out to the 
 greatest possible advantage to his owners, as well as to himself and the 
 ship's company. He knew the coast was alarmed, and had certain" in- 
 telligence that two men-of-war, one of fifty and the other of thirty-four 
 guns, were fitted out on purpose to take him. He had no expectation 
 of getting the goods he had taken, ransomed, in that part of the world, 
 and was sensible that they would prove of very little value if brought to 
 England. He, therefore, determined to try a project which Captain Ro- 
 gers had successfully practised before, that of sending a cargo of prize 
 goods to Brazil ; and, accordingly, fitted out the bark in vv'hich he had 
 taken the Countess of Laguna, mounted her with eight guns, and putting 
 on board thirteen Englishmen and ten negroes, with what provisions and 
 necessaries he could spare, he loaded her with a cargo valued at £10,000 
 and upward ; and on the 27th she sailed for Brazil, under the command 
 of Captain Mitchell. 
 
 Clipperton now sailed from La Plata, in order to cruise in his former 
 station ; and on the 12th of December, about five in the evening, saw a 
 sail, which he soon took ; she was called the Rosary, bound from Cher- 
 rippe for Panama, laden with provisions. Next day the launch and pin- 
 nace were employed in taking flour and other provisions from on board 
 the prize ; and when they had taken as much out of her as they could 
 well stow, cut her mainmast by the board, lest she should overset, and 
 let her go. They continued to crui.se in this station, lying in toward the 
 shore at night, and standing off all the day ; but met with no adventure 
 till the 27th, when they anchored in Guanchaco Bay, where they found 
 two ships at anchor, and fired a shot at each, but no return was made. 
 They then sent their boats on board, but found the vessels abandoaed, 
 and discovered that the lading had been just taken out. 
 
 It was now resolved to bear away for the Gallapagos islands, in ©rder 
 
136 VOYAGES ROUND TJIE WORLD. 
 
 ' to refresh ; and accordingly, on the 9th of January, 1720, they anchored 
 in York Road, on the north side of the Duke of York's Island, directly 
 under the equinoctial line, where they found good water, scrubbed and 
 cleaned their ship ; and, after a stay of ten days, left those islands, and 
 sailed to the northward. 
 
 They discovered a sail on the 21st of January, which they continued 
 to chase till eleven o'clock at night, when they came up with her, and 
 she struck on their firing a single gun* This ship was called the Prince 
 Eugene, bound from Panama to Lima, having on board the Marquis de 
 Villa Roche, who had been President of Panama, and all his family. 
 
 On the 20th of April, anchored in the Gulf of Amapalla, with a view 
 to have taken in water ; but, not being able to procure any, they steered 
 to the Island of Tygers, where there was abundance. From this time 
 till the 24th of June they met with no success ; but on that day took a 
 prize, laden with timber and cocoa nuts: and on the 11th of August 
 anchored, with their prize, at the Island of Lobos de la Mar. While here, 
 a conspiracy, headed by the boatswain and another fellow, was formed 
 for seizing the captain and the rest of the officers, and running away 
 with the ship. The conspirators agreed to set all the officers on shore 
 on the Island of Lobos ; and then, without distinction, to shoot every 
 man who opposed their proceedings ; but the plot being discovered on 
 the 6th of September, the two ringleaders were severely punished, and 
 the rest pardoned, which put an end to the conspiracy. 
 
 On the 1st of November, sailed for the Bay of Conception ; and in the 
 passage took a ship, laden with tobacco, sugar, and cloth. They made 
 the bay on the 6th, in the afternoon, where they saw three men-of-war, 
 lying with their topsails loose, who no sopner discovered them than they 
 cut their cables and stood in chase. At this time Captain Clipperton 
 had one prize with him, which, as well as the Success, hauled close 
 upon a wind ; on which the best sailer among the Spanish men-of-war 
 gave chase to tl.e prize, which he soon came up with and took. The 
 other ships crowded all the sail they could for some time, till the largest, 
 having her raizzen-topmast carried away, fired a gun, tacked, and stood 
 in for the shore, which gave the Success an opportunity of making her 
 escape. In the Spanish prize Clipperton lost his third lieutenant, Mr. 
 Milne, and twelve of his men. 
 
 On the 16th, saw another sail, to which they gave chase, but after a 
 few guns fired on both sides, she bore away and out-sailed them, perhaps 
 a happy circumstance, as she was a ship of force fitted out to take Cap- 
 tain Shelvock ; but the captain knowing this was not Shelvock's ship, 
 and doubting her strength, was unwilling to engage her. They now 
 continued cruising to the northward, not in search of plunder only, but 
 provisions, particularly flour, of which they had none left, and were at 
 this time reduced to an allowance of half a pound of Indian corn a day 
 to each man. On the 4th of December found themselves very near the 
 Gallapagos, and on the 6th sent the pinnace to discover an anchoring 
 place near one of the islands, which returned without finding any, but 
 reported they saw a great number of turtle on shore ; on which the pin- 
 nace and yawl were sent to get some, and returned with fish sufficient to 
 serve the whole ship's company a day. There being a prodigious surf 
 they could not land, but kept plying on and off, till unwilling to lose 
 raoro, time, they determined to steer for the Island of Cocos, where they 
 hoped to get fresh provisions, which the number of sick people on board 
 rendered very necessary. 
 
JOHN CLIPPERTON. 137 
 
 On the 17th, in the morning, had the satisfaction of seeing the Island 
 of Cocos, at the distance of nine leagues to the north-west, which filled 
 them with inexpressible joy ; and next day all who could with safety be 
 spared from the ship, went on shore to build a large tent for the recep 
 tion of the sick. Here they got plenty of fish, fowls, eggs, cocoa nuts, 
 and other refreshments ; the captain opened the last jar of brandy, 
 distributing to every man a dram a day ; and on New Year's day he 
 allowed a gallon of strong beer to every mess ; so that by proper refresh- 
 ments and ease the crew began to recover apace, and at lengih got their 
 wood and water on board. On the 17th of January, 1721, the captain 
 made the necessary dispositions for sailing ; but it was three days before 
 he could get his people on board, and even then there were no less than 
 eleven missing, viz., three Englishmen and eight negroes, who preferred 
 an idle life in that solitary place, to the dread of the dangers and fatigues 
 to which they were continually exposed on board. 
 
 On the 25th of this month arrived on the coast of Mexico, where, dis- 
 covering a sail about seven in the evening, they sent their pinnace to give 
 chase, to whom she struck about eleven. On the return of the pinnace 
 they had the surprising account, that this was a Spanish ship called the 
 Jesu Maria, now commanded by Captain Shelvock, who gave the follow- 
 ing account : that he had no more than forty of his men on board, the 
 rest being all dead or dispersed ; that he had lost the Speedwell at Juan 
 Fernandez, where they staid five months, and built a bark out of the 
 wreck, with which they put to sea, and coasted along Chili and Peru, 
 meeting several sliips, but could take nothing till they came to Pisco, 
 near Lima, where they made this prize. There was, however, conside- 
 rable difference in their accounts, and it appeared they had no regular 
 command among them, but had chosen a quarter-master, and carried 
 everything by a majority of votes ; so that they had entirely broken iheir 
 articles with respect to their owners, and had shared what they had 
 among themselves. 
 
 At eight o'clock in the evening, Shelvock came on board, having been 
 sent for by Captain Clipperton to give an account of his transactions. 
 The latter still keeping to the northward, saw the Jesu Maria several 
 times, but, in the beginning of the month of March, considering they 
 had a fair opportunity of coming up with the Manilla ship before she 
 entered Acapulco, the officers determined, the next time they saw Cap- 
 tain Shelvock, to propose to him to make the attempt. 
 
 On the 13th they discovered a sail, which from the signals appearing 
 to be him, they brought-to, and the captain and his lieutenants came on 
 board, when a general consultation was held, at which the officers be- 
 longing to both ships agreed that the attempt should be made jointly, 
 and that if happy enough to meet her, they should run her aboard at 
 once, which they supposed to be their only chance of success. After 
 this they cruised for her, and on the 15th Captain Clipperton held ano- 
 ther consultation, in which the following proposals were agreed to, 
 signed, and sent to Captain Shelvock : that if he and his crew would re- 
 fund all the money shared among themselves contrary to the articles 
 with the owners, and agree to put it into a joint stock, then all faults 
 should be forgiven, both companies would unite and proceed to cruise 
 for the Manilla ship. However, Shelvock and his people not caring to 
 part with anything they possessed, declined giving any answer to this 
 proposal. Captain Clipperton now finding that nothing was to be done 
 with hi^ coadjutor, having waited till some days were elapsed, beyond 
 
 155* 
 
138 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the usual time of meeting with the Manilla ship, determined to go di- 
 rectly to the East Indies. 
 
 On the 1 3th of May anchored in the road of Guam, and sent the pin- 
 nace on shore with a flag of truce, in order to obtain some provisions ; 
 but the inhabitants sent word they could not trade without the gover- 
 nor's permission ; and, therefore, it was thought proper to make imme- 
 diate application to him. Mr. Godfrey, agent for the owners on board 
 the Success, having been sent to the governor's residence at Umatta, 
 returned on the 16th, in one of their proas, with a message, importing 
 that they should be supplied with provisions, provided they behaved civilly 
 and paid honestly. On the same day their own launch arrived, and 
 brought on board bread, greens, fruits, sugar, brandy, and catile. On the 
 next the governor sent a handsome present of sugar, brandy, and palm 
 wine, with a considerable quantity of chocolate : in acknowledgment of 
 which kindness the whole ship's company drank his health, under a dis- 
 charge of seven guns. 
 
 The governor having agreed for the ransom of the Marquis de Villa 
 Roche, who had been so long their prisoner, he went on shore on the 
 18th of May, in company with the agent, first lieutenant, and surgeon, 
 and was complimented with five guns on his landing. Soon after this 
 they received a letter, in which the governor agreed to pay for the con- 
 secrated plate, and desired more powder and shot : to which the captain 
 replied, that he would not spare an^ more, nor send back the negroes. 
 The yawl went on shore on the 28th for more provisions ; but the offi- 
 cer who had the government of the village told them they should have 
 no more, unless they sent a quantity of-powder and shot. 
 
 On this Captain Clipperton immediately weighed anchor, sending the 
 pinnace ahead to sound, and making the best of his way to his ship in 
 the harbour. During this kind of sham treaty, the people on shore had 
 raised a battery, from whence they now began to fire at the pinnace, 
 which, on her return, gave an account that the channel was within pistol- 
 shot of the shore. About six in the afternoon, making toward the ship, 
 they ran aground, the Spaniards having carried her into shoal water ; so 
 that they now sustained two fires, one from the ship and another froni 
 the battery over their heads. At nine o'clock they got foul of the rocks, 
 and endeavouring to get off, cut away two of their anchors ; and the 
 enemy now fired so warmly with stones and shot from a new battery 
 erected on a hill, that they suffered extremely in their hull and rigging, 
 and lost the first lieutenant, and three men wounded. Thus they lay in 
 a miserable condition, exposed to the continual fire of the enemy, who, 
 in the night, had a very considerable advantage over them, for the water 
 being as smooth as a pond, easily showed their position ; whereas they 
 had no other direction for their aim than the flashes of the guns from 
 the Spanish battery. 
 
 At four in the afternoon they set her afloat, and cut away the small 
 bower-anchor ; but in ten minutes ran aground again ; at nine they car- 
 ried out the kedge-anchor, but in heaving the hawser broke ; they im- 
 mediately carried out another hawser, with a lower-deck gun to it, having 
 now lost all their anchors, and being still aground. At two o'clock in 
 the morning the enemy hailed them several times to surrender, or expect 
 no quarter ; and at eleven o'clock in the forenoon they carried out the 
 rest of the small bower, with two lower-deck guns, right ahead, into five 
 fathoms water : they then cleared away the hold, ready to start their wa- 
 ter, to make the ship lighter ; got their upper and lower-deck guns for- 
 
JOHN CLIPPEUTON. 139 
 
 ward, to bring her by the head, the ship hanging abaft upon the rock. 
 During the last four-and-twcnty hours they had happily but one person 
 wounded ; but the ship was wretchedly torn and mangled between wind 
 and water. On the 30th, at six in the afternoon, just as they got afloat, 
 the enemy fired so briskly from the new battery, that the shot raked them be- 
 tween wind and water, killing one of their people and wounding two others. 
 Thus they lost both their bower-anchors and cables, the stern and kedge 
 anchors, four hawsers, four of their lower-deck guns, and nineteen barrels 
 of powder ; and had two men killed and six wounded, having stood no 
 less than fifty hours a fair mark for the enemy to fire at ; and if they had 
 not got clear, it was believed they would have sunk them before morning. 
 
 On the 23d of June, on a strict examhiation, they found the ship in a 
 very shattered condition, having scarce a whole timber in her upper 
 works : and as it blew pretty fresh, they durst not carry sail, but were 
 forced, for a week together, to scud under bare poles, through variable 
 winds and in bad weather. This, indeed, was a melancholy situation 
 for people to be in, who were in seas with which they were but little ac- 
 quainted, and sailing by charts on which they could not absolutely depend. 
 On the 1st of July fell in with other islands, and despatched their pinnace 
 for intelligence how far Macao bore from them, for which port they now 
 intended to proceed. The pinnace returned on the next day with a boat, 
 in which were three Chinese sailors, from whom they could learn nothing 
 more than that Canton lay to the south-west. 
 
 On the 3d, finding they were too far to the leeward of Macao, and not 
 being able to get a pilot, they resolved to sail for Amoy, before which 
 port they arrived on the 5lh, in the evening. The entrance of the port 
 is remarkable, having a high mountain, on the top of which is a tower, 
 which may be seen twenty leagues at sea ; and on the other side of it 
 is a little island, which lies immediately before the bay. They entered 
 thi.s bay on the Gth of July, and they were no sooner anchored than they 
 had ten custom-house officers put on board. The day after this the men 
 mutinied, and insisted that the captain should pay them their prize mo- 
 ney immediately, as they knew the Success was in no condition to put 
 to sea. 
 
 On the 12th the officers went on shore to wait on the hoppo, who re- 
 ceived them in a very fine palace, treated them with great civility, and 
 gave them permission to remain iu the harbour till the monsoons were 
 over, for which, however, he demanded, and soon afterward was paid, in 
 ready money, a very extraordinary compensation, under the name of port 
 charges, amounting to 1700 dollars, which is about £400 sterling. Some 
 of the men having gone on shore without leave, Captain Clipperton would 
 have corrected them, but the whole crew declaring on their side, prevent- 
 ed it ; so that all things fell into confusion, the men refusing to work 
 till they had received their prize money. To show that they had no more 
 regard to the credit of their country than they had to the respect due to 
 their officer, they applied to the chief mandarin of the place, and desired 
 that he would do them justice against the captain. 
 
 Clipperton' was, therefore, summoned before him ; and on the manda- 
 rin's demanding a reason why he refused to comply with the desires of 
 the crew, he produced the articles, by which it appeared that the prize 
 money was not to be shared till their return to London. But Captain 
 Cook (for so he was now called) being examined, gave the mandarin a 
 different account ; on which a guard of soldiers was sent on board the 
 ship, with a strict order from the mandarin to Captain Clipperton to set- 
 
140 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tie the shares, and pay the men, with which he was obliged to comply. 
 Pursuant to the same orders, this distribution was made on the 16th of 
 September; but though Mr. Cook and his associates carried their point 
 in this manner, Captain Clipperton's arguments had so much weight with 
 the chief mandarin, that before he permitted them to proceed to the dis- 
 tribution, he obhged them to lay by one-half of the cargo for the benefit 
 of the owners ; which, in ready money, wrought silver, gold, and jewels, 
 amounted to between 6 and £7000 sterling, which was immediately put 
 on board a Portuguese East Indiaman, called the Queen of Angels, 
 which ship was afterward unfortunately burnt at Rio Janeiro, on the coast 
 of Brazil ; so that of the effects the owners received no more, the charges 
 of salvage being deducted, than £1800. 
 
 They weighed anchor from the Bay of Amoy on the 13th of Septem- 
 ber, in order to proceed lo Macao, in the road of which they anchored 
 on the 4th of October. As soon as Captain Clipperton entered the port, 
 Mr. Cook and another gentleman proposed going to Canton, to consult 
 Mr. Winder, supercargo to an East Indiaman, who was son to one of the 
 principal proprietors, as to what should be done with the Success ; and, 
 on their return, she was surveyed, condemned, and sold for 4000 dollars. 
 After this, Clipperton agreed with the purchaser for a passage in her to 
 Batavia. And when he arrived there, he procured a passage, in a Dutch 
 ship, to Europe. On his arrival in Holland, finding himself in a decli- 
 ning state of health, he took the first opportunity of getting to Galvvay, 
 in Ireland, where he had left his family ; but the satisfaction he received 
 in seeing them was of a very short duration, for, with a broken fortune, 
 he died of a broken heart within a week after his landing. 
 
 CAPTAIN GEORGE SHELVOCK.— 1719-23. 
 
 An account has been already given of the preceding voyage, and of 
 the motives that influenced the undertaking. It remains now only to 
 relate the proceedings of Captain Shelvock, the second in command, who 
 has himself been circumstantial in laying before the public the particu- 
 lars. On the 13th of February, 1719, sailed from Plymouth, in the 
 Speedwell, in company with the Success, of 36 guns. Captain John Clip- 
 perton. On the 15th, went under his lee, and desired him to send for 
 his wine and brandy, which he neglecting, lost his sea-stock of liquors ; 
 for they never saw anything of each other till about two years afterward. 
 'Thursday, the 19th, a storm arose, and about midnight a sea drove in the 
 quarter and one of the stern dead-lights. For a considerable time they 
 were under apprehensions of foundering ; a succession of prodigious 
 seas drove over the ship ; and, in this melancholy state, the chain-pump 
 was the only means of deliverance. February 20th, had no sight of the 
 Success, and at midnight set the topsails, and stood to the north-westward. 
 
 A tedious passage occurred to the first place of rendezvous, the Canary 
 islands ; and did not arrive there till the I7th of March, where hearing no- 
 thing of the Success, on the 29th took their departure from the Island of 
 Ferro, in hopes of meeting with Captain Clipperton among the islands of 
 Cape de Verde. On the 14th of April, made the Isle of May ; and run 
 ning alonsr shore, saw a wreck, which they were told was the Vanzittem 
 Indiaman, Captain Hide, who, three weeks before, had been cast away. 
 On Friday, June 19th, made the Island of St. Catharine's ; and at ten 
 next morning anchored in ten fathoms water, the Island of Gall bearing 
 
GEORGE SHELVOCK. 141 
 
 east-north-east, distant two leagues, and the easternmost point of St. 
 Catharine's east and by south, distant four leagues. The first thing was 
 to send the carpenter on shore, with all the people that could be useful 
 in felling trees and sawing them into plank, and to order the cooper and 
 his crew to trim the casks and fill them with water. 
 
 July the 2d, were alarmed at break of day by the appearance of a large 
 ship at anchor, four or five miles below the place where they lay. An 
 officer was sent in the launch, well manned and arm.ed, to see what he 
 could make of her, and put the ship into the best posture of defence 
 practicable. About noon the launch returned, and brought word that this 
 ship was the Ruby, formerly an English man-of-war, and now one of M. 
 Martinet's squadron ; that she came from the South Seas, and was com- 
 manded by M. la Jonquiere ; that he, his officers, and seamen, to the 
 number of 420, were all French ; and though in the Spanish service, had 
 not the least design to molest the English. 
 
 July 15th, saw a great ship plying into the harbour's mouth ; but when 
 she discovered the Speedwell, made the bestof her way out again. This 
 possessed M. la Jonquiere with a notion of her being the Success, and 
 put him into a hurry to be gone ; accordingly, when night came, he 
 weighed, and went to sea the next morning. During all this, the car- 
 penter went on but slowly in the woods ; and at last, when they came to 
 case the stern all over with thick plank, they could find no nails fit for that 
 use ; and it seemed the first carpenter and his crew had sold most of the 
 stores before the ship left Plymouth. July 25th, a large Sjhip came in, 
 called the Wise Solomon, of St. Malo's, of 40 guns, and 160 men, com- 
 manded by M. Domain Girard, and bound to the coasts of Chili and 
 Peru to trade. August 3d, there came in the St. Francisco Xavier, a 
 Portuguese man-of-war, of 40 guns, and 300 men, from Lisbon, bound to 
 Macao, in China, commanded by Captain la Riviere, a Frenchman. On 
 the 6th three of the men deserted, and the mate and his party went up to 
 the Portuguese plantations in search of them. It being almost midnight, 
 the inhabitants took the alarm, and planted themselves in ambuscade to de- 
 stroy them as they came back. No sooner had they returned into the 
 boat, than they heard them rushing out of the woods, crying, " Kill the 
 dogs, kill all the English dogs." This outcry was instantly followed by 
 a volley of small arms, which wounded three men. They made no long 
 stay after this disaster, but took their departure from the northernmost 
 point of St. Catherine's, on the 9th of August. 
 
 September 19th, about midnight, perceived the water to be discoloured 
 all at once, and upon heaving the lead, found themselves in twenty-six 
 fathoms water ; this done, stood off again to sea, but did not deepen their 
 water in the running of five leagues. This seems to be a bank very near 
 the entrance of the straits of Magellan. On the 13th, the fog clearing 
 up, they had a full but melancholy prospect of the most desolate country 
 that can be conceived, seeming no other than continued ridges and chains 
 of mountains, one within another, perpetually buried in snow. Till now, 
 they had not been sensible of any helps or hindrances by currents ; but 
 this afternoon were hurried with incredible rapidity into the straits, and 
 just as they had gained somewhat more than the mid-passage, the nor- 
 thern tide came rushing out with a violence equal to that of the tide which 
 had brought them in, and to their great astoniohment, drove them out of 
 the straits again at a great and extraordinary rate, notwithstanding a fresh 
 and fair gale in their favour, at north-virest. The ship laboured in the 
 most alarming manner, and became insensible of the guidance of the 
 
142 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 helm ; but at midnight the tide shifting, they put through the straits with- 
 out seeing the land on either side, and in the morning had a very good 
 offing to the southward. 
 
 They now formed a resolution of going to the Isle of Chiloe ; and on 
 the 30th of November entered the channel, with an intent to surprise 
 and attack the towns of Chacao and Calibuco ; but immediately after 
 they had come-to, the windward tide made out with prodigious rapidity, 
 which instantly caused a great sea ; and the wind increasing at the same 
 time, the channel all around appeared as if agitated by a storm. In the 
 rnidst of this the ship laid a great strain upon her cable, which unfortu- 
 nately parted, and they lost the anchor. December 3d, there came a 
 Spanish officer, in a piragua rowed by eight Indians, sent by the governor 
 to know who they were. They hoisted French colours, and when the 
 Spaniard came on board, told him they were a homeward-bound French 
 ship, called the St. Rose, and that the captain's name was Le Janis le 
 Breton. Under this notion he staid all night, and next morning departed, 
 not seeming to suspect them. From this deception they had now the 
 decks full of live cattle, such as European sheep, hogs, guanicoes, poul- 
 try in abundance, and hams, Sec, as also a good quantity of wheat, bar- 
 ley, potatoes, maize, or Indian corn ; and in short, four months' provisions 
 to what remained of the English stock. 
 
 December 17th, unmoored, and at noon weighed and sailed out with 
 the wind al west-south-west. On December the 23d, came abreast of 
 the Teats of Biobia, and in the evening arrived in the bay, from whence 
 were ordered the boats, well manned and armed, to go up in the night to 
 surprise what ships or vessels might be in the harbour, and to make v/hat 
 observations they could concerning the place. About noon Captain 
 Hatley returned in the pinnace, having taken the Solidad d'Anday, of 150 
 tons, the only ship in the road, lately come from Baldivia, laden with tim- 
 ber ; had nobody on board except the boatswain, an old negro, and two 
 Indian boys. He took also a small vessel of about twenty-five tons, near 
 the Island of Quiriquine, which belonged to a priest who had been gather- 
 ing fruits, and was now made a prisoner in her, together with four or 
 five Indians. They were agreeably surprised soon after with the sight 
 of a .large ship, coming about the northernmost point of the Island of 
 Quiriquine. It was almost dark, and she could not perceive what they 
 were, so that she stood on without fear. As soon as she approached near 
 enough they hailed, to which she returned no answer, and they fired into 
 her. This was no sooner done, than she came-to, and called for quarter. 
 She was called the St. Fermin, came from Callao, burthen about 300 
 tons, and laden with sugar, molasses, rice, coarse French linen, and some 
 cloths of Quito, together with a small quantity of chocolate, and about 
 5 or 6000 dollars in money and wrought plate. 
 
 January 1st, Captain Betagh went to Conception, with a copy of Shel- 
 vock's commission, the declaration of war, &c., and soon after returned 
 with a Flemish Jesuit, a Spanish lawyer, an Englishman, and a Scotch- 
 man. The Jesuit assured the Captain he was only come to pay his re- 
 spects, and to do his utmost to promote the ransom of the ships ; he then 
 said that the captains of the St. Fermin and Solidad had resolved to give 
 12,000 dollars for the ransom of both the ships, and the Mercury included, 
 instead of 16,000 dollars, which had been insisted on for the St. Fermin 
 only. To this they positively answered, that all persuasions, artifices, 
 and pretences should never qjake ihem agree to them. They had taken 
 in the St. Fermin ten large silver candlesticks, each of them weighing 
 
GEORGE SHELVOCK. 143 
 
 above twenty-five pounds sterling. January 6th, the morning passed 
 away without any news from the town. They now began to make pre- 
 paration for sailing, in which they spent the greater part of the day. There 
 being no appearance of any boat coming off, they ordered the St. Terrain 
 to be set on fire. Her cotton sails, being loosed, made a prodigious blaze. 
 They had already set fire to the Solidad to quicken their motions ; and 
 now, having concluded the treaty, immediately got under sail, much cha- 
 grined at the loss of so many days without reaping any advantage. 
 
 January 11th, at six in the morning, saw the Island of Juan Fernandez, 
 and from that day uutil the 15th, kept standing off and on the shore for 
 boats, which were fishing. At length, going on shore to make a search, 
 some of the men accidentally saw the word Magee, which v/as the name 
 of Clipperton's surgeon, and Captain John cut out under it upon a tree. 
 Being thus confirmed in the certainty of Clipperton's arrival, they directly 
 made the best of their way to the northward. February 5th, despatched 
 Mr. Brooks ahead to discover if there were any shipping at Arica, and 
 next day had a sight of the head- land of that place and the Island of 
 Guano, with a ship at anchor on the northern side of it, and saw the 
 Mercury standing out of the bay, by which they judged the ship was too 
 warm for her, and therefore made all possible haste to get up to her with 
 the ship. They found her already taken, and that the Mercury only went 
 accidentally adrift. This prize was called the Rosario, of about 100 tons, 
 of no value. February 26th, the officers in the Mercury desired to be 
 relieved, and it being Captain Hatley's turn to go in her, he proposed that 
 he might continue along shoro so far as Lobos, an island in about seven 
 degrees of south latitude The very next day they took a small bark 
 laden with rice, chocolate, wheat, flour, and the like. The day following 
 they took another. On the fourth day they became masters of a ship of 
 near 200 tons, worth 150,000 pieces of eight. Flushed with this success, 
 the greater part of the people wished to lay hold of this opportunity and 
 go to India : but no sooner clapped their helm aweatherfor this purpose, 
 than they saw a sail standing in chase, which, in short, proved to be a Spa- 
 nish man-of-war, who caught them, and put an end to their Indian voyage. 
 March 21st, at three in the afternoon, saw the Pena Oradado, or the 
 Hole in the Rock ; and in an hour afterward entered the cove of Paita, 
 with French colours flying. At two o'clock next morning, Shelvock 
 landed with forty-six men, leaving Mr. Coldsea, the master, and some 
 others to bring the ship nearer in, that they might the more expeditiously 
 enabark the expected plimder. They marched up to the great church 
 without meeting any opposition ; and indeed found the town entirely de- 
 serted by the inhabitants. The remainder of the day was spent in ship- 
 ping off the plunder. In the afternoon there came a messenger, to know 
 what they would take foi the ransom of the town and ship ; to which it 
 was answered, 10,01)0 pieces of eight. Having received a negative an- 
 swer, and got everything serviceable out of the town, they instantly set 
 it on fire ; and the houses, being extremely dry, consumed a\vay apace. 
 But no sooner was Paita in a blaze, flhan those on board made signals 
 for them to come off, and kept incessantly firing toward the mouth of the 
 harbour, where was a large ship lying with her fore-topsail aback, and 
 with a Spanish flag flying at her fore-topmast-head. As she was coming 
 in with all sails spread, Mr. Coldsea, by the assistance of the few on 
 board, fired so smartly, that he stopped the enemy's career. The Spa- 
 niard apprehending he should have hot work, brought his ship to, that he 
 might put huoself into a condition of making a more vigorous attack. 
 
144 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 This inactivity of the enemy gave an opportunity for all the men to come 
 off, about fifty in number, but the Spaniard was within pistol-shot before 
 they had got into the Speedwell ; upon which they cut the cable, but the 
 ship falling the wrong way, had just room enough to fill clear of him. 
 They expected him every minute to board, and upon hearing a shouting 
 among them, and seeing their forecastle full of men, it was concluded 
 they had now come to that resolution ; but the English presently saw the 
 occasion of this joy was their having shot down the ensign-staff, though 
 a new ensign was spread in the mizzen-shrouds. Upon sight of this they 
 lay snug, and held their way close upon the quarter ; at last, designing 
 to do the business at once, they clapped their helm well astarboard, to 
 bring their whole broadside to bear, but their fire had little or no effect. 
 All stood fast in the Speedwell, which gave time both to get ahead and 
 to windward of him, before he could fill his sails again. After this, he 
 was in a great hurry to get his spritsail-yard fore and aft, threatening very 
 hard, and plying them with his forechase ; but they were soon out of his 
 reach ; this ship was called the Peregrine, of fifty-six guns, with upward 
 of 450 men. The Speedwell had but twenty mounted, with seventy-three 
 white men, eleven negroes, and two Indians. 
 
 May I Ith, saw the Island of Juan Fernandez, bearing east half south. 
 On the 21st a hard gale of wind came from seaward, and brought in 
 with it a tumbling swell ; so that in a few hours the cable, which was 
 never wet before, parted, and inevitable shipwreck appeared before their 
 eyes. But Providence so far interposed, that if they had struck but a 
 cable's length farther to the eastward or westward of the place where 
 they did, they must certainly all have perished. The mainmast, fore- 
 mast, and mizzen-topmast went all away together ; and happy it was they 
 did so ; for, by making them serve by way of raft, and by the help of 
 those who were on shore before the wind came on, all were saved except 
 one man. 
 
 They now began to think of building such a vessel from the wreck as 
 might carry all off at once from the island ; and for that purpose consulted 
 with the carpenters. June 8th, laid the blocks, and got the bowsprit 
 ready to make a keel. September 9th a boat, begun by the armourer, 
 was launched ; and, being now in a fair way of completing the bark, 
 there yet remained, unconsidered and undetermined, what provisions 
 should be got for the present voyage. All the stock consisted of but 
 one cask of beef, five or six bushels of farina or Cassada flour, together 
 with four or five live hogs. The little boat was now daily employed in 
 fishing. Tke armourer constantly supplied them with hooks, and there 
 was no want of lines, which were made of twisted riband. In the mean- 
 time, those who were ashore made twice-layed stuff for rigging and other 
 uses ; others patched up the canvass for sails ; the cooper completed his 
 casks ; and, in a short time, they had masts an-end tolerably well rigged, 
 and thought they made a pretty good figure. The next spring tide they 
 found means to launch her, which happened on the 5th of October, by 
 which time they had saved about 2300 conger eels, weighing one with 
 another about one pound each, and made about 60 gallons of seals' oil 
 to fry them in. This, with what was mentioned before, was all their 
 eea-stock. As she went off the blocks she was named the Recovery. 
 
 October 6th, set sail, with nothing to subsist on at sea but the before- 
 mentioned smoked congers, one cask of beef, and four live hogs, together 
 with three or four bushels of farina. They were upward of forty persons 
 crowded together, and lying upon bundles of eels, with no convenience 
 
GEORGE SHELVOCK. 145 
 
 of keeping the men clean, nor anything to defend them from their abomi- 
 nable stench ; not a drop of water to be had without sucking it out of 
 the cask through a pipe, which being used promiscuously, became into- 
 lerably nauseous. All the conveniency for firing was a half tub filled 
 with earth, which made cooking so tedious, that they had a continual 
 noise of frying from morning till night. On the fourth day they fell in 
 with a large ship, plainly European built. This struck them with the 
 dread of her being a man-of-war ; but their case being desperate, they 
 stood for her, when the enemy discovering the brownness of their can- 
 vass, and suspecting them, wore ship, and hauled close on a wind to the 
 westward. In the meantime the English overhauled their arms, which 
 were found in a very bad condition, one-third being without flints, and 
 they had but three cutlasses ; so that they were but ill prepared for board- 
 ing, which was the only means left of taking any ship. They had but one 
 small cannon, which could not be mounted, and, therefore, were obliged 
 to fire it as it lay upon the deck ; and to supply it had no more ammuni- 
 tion than two rounds shot, a few chain-bolts and bolt-heads, the clap- 
 per of the Speedwell's bell, and some bags of beach-stones to serve for 
 partridge-shot. As they advanced nearer, they saw her guns and pata- 
 raroes, and a considerable number of men upon deck, with their arms 
 glittering in the sun, who called out by the name of English dogs, de- 
 fying them, in a scornful way, to come on board, and at the same time 
 fired a volley of great and small shot, which killed the gunner, and almost 
 brought the fore-mast by the board. This warm reception staggered a 
 great many of the men, who before seemed eager to advance, insomuch 
 that they lay upon their oars for some time. They recovered themselves 
 again, however, and rowed close up with the enemy, engaging them till 
 all the small shot was expended, which obliged the adventurers to fall 
 astern to make slugs. In this manner they made three attempts, but 
 with no better success. 
 
 Their condition now grew worse and worse ; for after parting from this 
 ship, a hard gale came on, which lasted four days without ceasing, during 
 all which time they had not a hope of living a minute. In this extremity, 
 calling to mind M. Frezier's account of Iquique, the surprisal of that 
 place was proposed to the crew, which being universally approved, they 
 Bteered for that island. It was three weeks before they got there, and 
 having nothing to ride the bark with, were obliged to keep the sea, while 
 the boat went in between the rocks, and was received by some Indians 
 on the strand with a sort of welcome. The men, being landed, went to 
 the lieutenant's house, broke it open, and rummaged the whole village, 
 where they found a booty more valuable at that time than gold and silver. 
 It consisted of about sixty bushels of wheat flour, 120 of calavances and 
 corn, some jerked beef, pork, mutton, and other useful food. Being de- 
 termined to make some attempt in the road of Le Nasco, in latitude IG 
 degrees south, and at Pisco, in latitude 13 degrees 45 minutes south, 
 ihey set sail, and the very morning they came off Le Nasco, two hours 
 before daylight, fell in with a large ship. The circumstances of the 
 meeting and engaging her were, in some measure, the same with those 
 they had with the other vessel. The next day they stood into the road 
 of Pisco, as designed, and discovered what appeared to be a large ship. 
 They bore down with a resolute despair, and laid her athwartwise ; 
 ^ut met with no resistance, and were received by the captain and his 
 officers with their hats off, in the most submissive manner asking for 
 quarter. She was a good ship, of about 200 tons, called the Jesua 
 
 13 
 
146 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Maria, almost laden with pitch, tar, copper, and plank, but nothing felso. 
 The captain offered 1600 dollars for her ran&om, but they could not give 
 ear to it in the condition which they were then in. 
 
 From this place they steered for the Island of Gorgona, in the Bay of 
 Panama. In the way made the Island of Plate, Cape St. Francis, and 
 Gorgonella ; and, on December 2d, came to anchor to the leeward 
 of the northernmost point of Gorgona, within less than a quarter of a 
 mile of the shore. To furnish themselves with what they wanted, S-hel- 
 vock proposed a descent on the Island of Quibo, in latitude 7 degrees 40 
 minutes north, where, by Captain Rogers's account, it was believed there 
 must be inhabitants. On January 1 3th, 1721, anchored between Quibo 
 and the Isle of Quivetta, in a sandy bay, commodious for wooding and 
 watering. The morning after their arrival, saw two large piraguas row-- 
 ing in for the Isle of Quivetta, one with Spanish colours flying. Mr. 
 Brooks, the first lieutenant, found the men on shore, broughi away their 
 piraguas, and two prisoners. 
 
 January 25th, saw a sail about two leagues to leeward, and gave chase 
 till they found she was of European structure ; and, fearing she might 
 be one of the enemy's ships-of-war, hauled on a wind. Soon after saw 
 a boat rowing toward them, which proved to be the Success's pinnace, 
 commanded by Mr. Davidson, their first lieutenant. Their first interview 
 with him was attended by an astonishment equal on both sides ; he could 
 hardly believe he saw them in so mean and forlorn a condition ; and 
 they could scarcely believe that the Success (if in being) had been all 
 this v/hile wandering up and down these seas. 
 
 They cruised in good order, and with a great deal of hope, until March 
 17th, without success, and then, owing to continual quarrels, separated, 
 each throwing the blame upon the other ; but it must be confessed that 
 Shelvock was in fault. March 30th, in the evening, entered the road of 
 Sonsonnate, and, as the sun set, saw a ship at anchor. It being a moon- 
 light night, sent the first lieutenant to discover what this ship might be, 
 when it appeared she was a large one, of one tier of guns at least. At 
 daylight the enemy had hoisted a jar of powder, containing about ten 
 gallons, with a lighted match at each main and fore-yard-arm, and at the 
 bowsprit end, with design to let them fall on the decks if the English 
 boarded. Seeing them so desperate in their preparations, the latter ex- 
 pected a warm dispute ; and, by what they could see, they were, in all 
 points, superior by much to them in strength. At eleven in the morning 
 the sea-breeze came in, and ran Shelvock upon them very fast, while 
 his small arms were briskly and effectually employed to break their powder 
 jars before boarding, which they did without delay, and after the exchange 
 of a few shot when on board of each other, they submitted. The ship was 
 called the Sacra Familia, of 300 tons, six guns, and seventy men ; be- 
 sides a great number of small arms, with some grenade-shells and shot. 
 
 Unable to get water, they were reduced to a pint for twenty-four hours 
 each man, and then directed their course for the Gulf of Amapala, which 
 was about thirty-five leagues to the east-south-east of this place, in order 
 to get a fresh supply. The winds were favourable, and they arrived there 
 on the 10th following, in the evening. As soon as they had entered the 
 gulf, they found themselves in the midst of several small islands, one of 
 which was the Island of Tygers, where it was expected to find water ; 
 but their expectations proved vain, for, after a hazardous and fruitless 
 search, not only on that but on some of the greenest of the other isles, 
 there was not the least drop to be found on any of them. After suffer- 
 
GEORGE SHELVOCK. 147 
 
 bg great hardships, they were fortunately relieved by falling in unexpect- 
 edly with the Island of Cano, in latitude 9 degrees north, where, seeing a 
 run of water, Mr. Randall, without dreading the dangerous surf, passed 
 through the breakers, and, to the unspeakable joy of all the company, soon 
 returned on board with his jars filled. 
 
 May 19th, saw a sail ahead standing along shore, and being desirous 
 of speaking with her, made all the sail possible in chase. They gained 
 very little upon her all that day ; but had, nevertheless, got a great way 
 ahead of a bark, wherein were four of their own people and five Spaniards. 
 However, notwithstanding night came on, all sail was kept abroad, and 
 next morning they were within gun-shot of her. The captain immedi- 
 ately ordered the colours to be spread, fired a gun to leeward, and set a 
 man to wave a flag of truce ; but, on sijrht of the English ensign, she 
 fired at them, and so continued to' do, with her decks full of men, abus- 
 ing the English with the grossest appellations. The latter made no 
 return until close upon their quarter, and then one of their countrymen 
 was sent to the bowsprit end to inform them, in Spanish, that they were 
 bound to Panama, and desired to treat peaceably, and hoped, at least, 
 they would have some regard to the white flag which they saw flying ; 
 but they still continued to fire ; and presuming, by their quiet behaviour, 
 that t.hey were unable to defend themselves, were preparing to board, 
 which was no sooner perceived than they met them with the helm, and 
 gave in return so warm a salute that they steered round off. Shelvock 
 just missed getting hold of them, but it falling almost immediately calm, 
 continued the engagement for the space of two or three hours at the 
 distance of musket-shot. At length, a breeze wafting our adventurers 
 nearer to them, their courage cooled. The captain, however, still bravely 
 encouraging his people, and exposing himself in the most open manner, was 
 shot through the body, and dropped down dead ; upon which they imme- 
 diately, and with one voice, cried out for quarter, and put an end to the 
 dispute. Mr. Randall and two or three more went on board the prize 
 and found the prisoners in the most submissive posture, asking for mercy, 
 which was granted, though they had no great reason to expect it, after their 
 direct breach of the laws of arms and nations in tiring at a flag of truce. 
 
 Winds and calms prevented their joining the Holy Sacrament, the 
 prize left behind, till May 22d, when they bore down, and were surprised 
 to find no soul on board, but that her decks and quarters .were covered 
 with blood. By many circumstances it plainly appeared that the Spa- 
 nish crew had butchered those who were left to assist thorn, while asleep ; 
 otherwise it could not have happened, that five unarmed Spaniards could 
 have overpowered four Englishmen completely provided with arms for 
 their defence. It is very probable, however, that these murderers paid 
 with their lives the loss of those lives they had taken away ; for, being 
 above four leagues from the land, and having no boat with them, they 
 probably jumped into the sea on the approach of the English, fearing, if 
 they fell into their hands, to meet the vengeance due for so horrid a crime. 
 That part of the deck which was dyed with gore they endeavoured to 
 cover, by throwing the flocks and stuffings of beds over it; so that till 
 these were removed, the blood was not seen. 
 
 Before proceeding any farther, it was necessary to get in a full stock 
 of water. The Island of Quibo was hazardous, being too near Panama; 
 it was, therefore, cjetermined to ply up 'to Cano, where, having a good boat, 
 they soon completed their business. In the passage thither the sweet- 
 meats of all kinds, taken out of the late prize, were divided among the 
 
148 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 messes. It happened that one of the men, one day, complained he had 
 a box of marmalade which he could not stick his knife into, and desired 
 it might be changed. On opening it, there was found a cake of virgin 
 silver, moulded on purpose to fill such boxes, and being very porous, was 
 of nearly the weight of so much marmalade. In overhauling the rest 
 they found five more of these boxes. This was a contrivance to defraud 
 the King of Spain of his fifths, which he claims in all the silver taken 
 out of any mines in Peru. They doubtless left a great many of these 
 boxes behind, so that this deceit served them in a double capacity, to de- 
 fraud the king's officers, and blind their enemies. 
 
 On Sunday, the 13th of August, at daybreak, found themselves near 
 Puerto Seguro, which may be readily known by three white rocks, not much 
 unlike the Needles of the Isle of Wight., and you must keep close on board 
 the outermost to fetch into the bay. They entered, surrounded by numbers 
 of small embarkations of ihe inhabitants, while the shore, on all sides, 
 was crowded with Indians, whose numbers visibly increased by multitudes 
 which flocked together from the adjacent parts. The anchor was no 
 sooner down, than they came off in shoals, some few on their bark-logs, 
 but most of them swimming, talking and calling out to one another in a 
 noisy and confused manner, but such as plainly showed how desirous 
 they were to come near. Having done all their business here on the 
 18th of August, in the morning, prepared for their departure in the after- 
 noon. They employed the morning in making a large distribution of 
 sugar among the women. To the men they gave a great many knives, 
 old axes, and old iron, taken in the prizes. These were the most use- 
 ful things, and of which they stood most in need ; in return for which, 
 some gave bows and arrows, deer's skin bags, live foxes, squirrels, and 
 the like. A great many of the men staid in the ship all the while they 
 were purchasing the anchor, and it was not till being under weigh that 
 they jumped overboard to join in the lamentations of their countrymen 
 on shore. 
 
 On the 21st of August discovered an island, bearing westsouth-west, 
 110 leagues distant from Cape St. Lucar. They endeavoured to get in 
 with it ; but night coming on, could not lose time to view it. This isle 
 the people called after the captain. From hence, they steered gradually 
 into the parallel of 13 degrees north, but had their way stopped for two 
 or three days by westerly winds. About a fortnight after leaving Cali- 
 fornia, the people, who had hitherto enjoyed an uninterrupted state of 
 health, began to be afflicted with a sickness which particularly affected 
 their stomachs. This was supposed to be owing to the quantities of 
 sweetmeats they were continually devouring, together with the dried beef, 
 half devoured with ants, cock-roaches, and other vermin, which was their 
 daily food. They now shaped a course for the Island of Formosa ; and 
 though the length of the voyage was decreasing very fast, the sickness 
 was daily increasing in a much greater proportion ; and both ship and 
 themselves were no longer fit for sea. It was the 3d of November be- 
 fore they had sight of that island, and the 10th before they could get any 
 sort of direotions to reach the intended port. At length, passing through 
 a very narrow channel between a couple of islands, a fisherman took 
 notice, by the cautious manner of working, that they were strangers, and 
 made signs to bring the ship to, till he came up ; when they made him 
 understand they were bound to Macao, and he made signs that he would 
 become pilot for as many pieces of silver as he counted little fish out of 
 his basket, which amounted to forty. They accordingly counted out 
 
JORIS SPILBERGEN. 149 
 
 forty dollars into a hat, and next day he took charge, and anchored them 
 •safe in the road of Macao, near the entrance of the River of Canton. 
 
 Soon after their arrival, there came off a great many of the Success's 
 people to make a visit to their friends, who. were very glad to hear their 
 Btory. Shelvock was now informed of the hoppo's demand for anchorage 
 In tho river, which was no less than 6000 tahel, on account of his sup- 
 posed riches ; and to quicken the payment of this exorbitant sum, there 
 was a penalty annexed to this extortion of 500 additional tahel for every- 
 day he failed in the payment of it. So that they recieved from him, upon 
 this occasion, the full sum of 6500 tahel, equal to £2166 135 Ad EngHsh 
 money. Before quitting his ship he sold her for 2000 tahel, which mo- 
 ney and the rest of his effects were consigned to the India Company. 
 Toward the latter end of December, 1V22, he sailed in the Cadogan, 
 commanded by Captain John Hill. From the Cape of Good Hope they 
 had an agreeable passage to the Island of St. Helena, and from thence 
 to England. 
 
 ADMIRAL JORIS SPILBERGEN.— 1614-17. 
 
 [This and two of the following voyages, Le Maire and Schouten, and 
 L'Hcremite, though anterior in chronological order to some of those just 
 given, have been withheld, in order to give in regular succession those of the 
 bucaniers ; men who have been celebrated throughout Europe, whose ex- 
 ploits have been alternately the theme of history and fable, and whd, with 
 all their faults, have perhaps powerfully contributed to excite that nautical 
 enthusiasm, which has since distinguished our country over all the nations 
 of the world.] 
 
 Js the year 1614 the East India Company of Holland equipped a fleet 
 in Europe, which was intended to sail for the Moluccas, by the straits of 
 Magellan and the South Sea. Joris Spilbergen, an able and experienced 
 seaman, who had previously conducted a fleet to the East Indies, received 
 the command of this with the title of admiral, and a commission from 
 their high-mightinesses the States-general. The fleet now fitted out con- 
 sisted of six ships; the Sun, (admiral's ship) the Half-Moon, the CEnlus, 
 the Morning Star, the Chaser, and Sea-gull ; they were equally supplied 
 for trade or for war, each ship having merchants and supercargoes, all 
 matters to be determined by a council of the mercantile as well as the 
 nautical officers. 
 
 On the 8th of August quitted the Texel, stopped some time at the 
 Isle of Wight, and on the 29th of September found floating at sea a 
 ship's mast, about which were an innumerable quantity of fish ; the ad- 
 miral's ship, in picking up the mast, having caught enough to supply 200 
 men. October the 3d, passed Madeira, and December 20th anchored 
 near Ilha Grande, on the coast of Brazil, where tents were erected on. 
 shore for the sick, with a strong guard of soldiers for their protection. 
 Here they tried to water the fleet, but the seamen not using sufficient 
 precaution, three boats were taken, and most of their crev^^s and guards 
 killed by the Portuguese. A conspiracy was at the same time discovered 
 in the Half-Moon, some of the seamen of which ship, in conjunction with 
 some of those of the Sea-gull, intending to seize on those vessels and 
 on the galliot, and desert from, the fleet. Two of the mutineers were 
 condemned by the council and executed, and the crew of the Sea-gull 
 draughted into the other ships. 
 
 13* 
 
150 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 On the 26th of January, 1615. a Portuguese vessel, standing in fronts 
 sea, was captured ; her cargo proved of httle or no value, but the men 
 on board were wished to be exchanged for some of the Dutch prisoners 
 taken in the watering party, known to be alive ; but the Portuguese would 
 not accede to this arrangement ; on which the prize was burnt, and the 
 most able part of her crew compelled to serve in the ships of the fleet. 
 On the 31st another watering party was attacked by the enemy, when 
 four Hollanders were killed, but succeeded in driving back the assailants. 
 February 4th, the fleet proceeded on the voyage, Bay de Cordes, in the 
 Strait of Magellan, being appointed for the rendezvous in case of separa- 
 tion. March the 8th, arrived off Virgin Cape : on the 17th some of the 
 ships had actually gained entrance into the strait, while others were dri- 
 ven off. In the meantime, when thus separated, another mutiny broke 
 out in the Sea-gull, and the command wrested from the officers ; but the 
 mutineers becoming intoxicated, and disagreeing in the choice of a new 
 captain, the vessel was recovered, and the two principal mutineers were 
 adjudged, by common consent, to be thrown into the sea, which was 
 immediately executed, and an attested account drawn up of all the cir- 
 cumstances. 
 
 Winter was now near at hand ; and while the wind continued contrary, 
 some of the officers and merchants inquired of the admiral what route he 
 proposed to take, if the fleet should not be able to accomplish the passage 
 into the South Sea : to whom the admiral replied, " I have no other orders 
 than to sail through the Strait of Magellan, inasmuch as no other passage 
 is known to us ; I therefore command you, that you do your best not to 
 separate from me." On the 29th the Sea-gull was missing, though in 
 company the preceding day, and it was apprehended she had deserted 
 the fleet intentionally. 
 
 April 5th, the wind being favourable, entered the strait. Near the en- 
 trance, on the land of Terra del Fuego, was seen a man of extraordinary 
 stature, who kepjt on the more elevated grounds to observe the ships. 
 On the shore of the continent were seen ostriches, which ran with such 
 swiftness, that a horse could scarcely have overtaken them ; and on an 
 island near the mouth of the strait were found two dead bodies of the 
 natives, wrapped in the skins of penguins, and very lightly covered with 
 earth. One was of the common stature ; but the other, it is stated, two 
 and a half feet longer. 
 
 Many natives visited the fleet in the Bay of Cordes, where the fleet 
 now was, to whom presents of trinkets and knives were made, and who 
 in return gave ornaments of mother-of-pearl ; but for some unknown 
 reason, they afterward discontinued their visits. On the 24th quitted 
 the bay. May the 1st, a boat having been sent to sound before the fleet, 
 some of the crew landed to shoot birds, when, being surprised by a party 
 of natives, two were killed. On the 6th entered the South Sea with 
 temperate weather. On the 21st gained sight of the coast of Chili, and 
 on the 25th anchored near the east side of the Isle of Mocha, half a 
 league from the shore. 
 
 Next morning, boats being sent from the ships, the inhabitants entered 
 peaceably into the trafic with the Dutch, bartering their sheep, goats, 
 poultry, and vegetables, for hatchets, knives, glass beads, and other Eu- 
 ropean wares. The chief of the island, with his son, visited the admiral, 
 and remained all night. All the people were sociable with their visiters, 
 but would not admit them into their houses, nor to approach their women ; 
 the things to be disposed of being all brought down to the water-side. 
 
JORIS 8PILBERGEN. 151 
 
 When they had disposed of all they wished, intimation and signs were 
 made to the voyagers, that they should re-enter their boats and depart, 
 with which desire the admiral wisely and humanely complied, thus part- 
 ing with mutual esteem. 
 
 On the 29th the fleet anchored near the Isle of Santa Maria, when 
 boats were despatched to try whether the natives would enter into peace- 
 able traffic for provisions ; but it was found there were Spaniards on the 
 island. A negotiation was, however, entered into, and a Spaniard in- 
 vited the Dutch officers to dinner. When the guests were assembled, the 
 latter as sufldenly broke up, either suspecting treachery in the Spaniards, 
 or discovering that they could help themselves, probably without the trou- 
 ble of a formal bargain. Three companies of soldiers and a party of sea- 
 men were forthwith landed, who set fire to some houses, and carried off 
 500 sheep, with a quantity of wheat, barley, beans, and poultry. From 
 their intended host, who was made prisoner, they learned that the Viceroy 
 of Peru had been for some months apprised of their coming, and that ia 
 April three ships had been at Santa Maria in search of them, in addition 
 to a greater force which was preparing at Lima for their destruction. 
 
 Upon this intelligence, Spilbergen, with the consent of the merchants, 
 resolved to proceed in search of the Spanish fleet, first putting his own 
 in a fit state to meet them. June the 1st, sailed toward Lima. At 
 Conception landed, and burnt some houses ; at Valparaiso the enemy set 
 fire to one of their own vessels to prevent her falling into the hands of 
 the Dutch. At Quintero stopped to take in water, which was obliged 
 to be done under cover of works thrown up for the purpose of covermg 
 the party thus employed. Wild horses were at first seen here near the 
 river, but they soon fled on finding iheir haunts discovered ; two of the 
 Portuguese prisoners taken at Brazil were put on shore here. July the 
 16th, having advanced beyond Arequipa, they took a small vessel from that 
 place, bound to Callao, with a cargo of olives and a round sum of money, 
 but this being embezzled by the immediate captors, the exact amount was 
 not known, nor had they time to inquire into it, as on the same day the 
 Spanish fleet, consisting of eight sail, appeared in sight. 
 
 These were the Santa Maria, the admiral's ship, mounting twenty-four 
 guns, and 460 persons, but of these there were 100 servants ; Santa 
 Anna, of fourteen guns and 300 men ; Carmel, of eight guns and 250 
 men ; Santiago, of eight guns and 200 men ; Rosaria, of four guns and 
 150 men ; the other three had no cannon, but were filled with musketry. 
 All the 17th the two fleets endeavoured to approach each other, but were 
 prevented by the lightness of the winds during daylight. The Spanish 
 commander, contrary to the advice of his second, determined on a night 
 attack, and about ten o'clock closed with the Dutch admiral's ship, when 
 they hailed each other, and had some conversation before a shot was fired, 
 but this conference was soon terminated for one of a less amicable nature. 
 The attack commenced with musketry, followed by a lively discharge of 
 the great guns. The ships of both squadrons came up in succession, 
 but, from the calmness of the v,reather, the admirals remained for a long 
 time opposed to each other, and during this time the cannonade was ac- 
 companied by the continual sounding of tambours and trumpets. After- 
 ward the action became more general, but the night becoming very dark, 
 the fleets gradually separated, the ships of both being much dispersed. 
 One Spanish vessel, named the San Francisco, armed with musketry, 
 was, however, sunk. 
 
 At daylight next morning, the Spanish admiral and his second were 
 
152 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 widely separated from their other ships, of which Spilbergen took advan- 
 tage, and they had thus to sustain nearly the whole fire of iheir adversary ; 
 two of their ships are accused of having kept wholly out of the action. 
 The Spanish admirals finding themselves overmatched, endeavoured to 
 escape, but the Santa Anna being closely pressed, it was necessary for 
 Don llodrigo de Mendo^a to wait for and assist her. At length, being 
 in danger of sinking, she submitted, when the Spanish admiral made sail 
 and got off. Two boats were sent directly on board the prize, with one 
 of the captains of the Dutch fleet, who was directed to return with the 
 Spanish vice-admiral, but that officer, Pedro Alvarez de Pilgar, conceived 
 it would detract from his honour to quit his ship in the night, unless the 
 Dutch commander would come for him in person. Finding him immovea- 
 ble in this resolution, the Dutch officer returned, when, before any other 
 arrangement had taken place, the prize went down with most of her crew, 
 and among others her captain, who thus fell a victim to a foolish punctilio. 
 Next morning others of the Spaniards were in sight, but not the admiral, 
 60 that, as the night was calm, it is supposed she also sunk. The Dutch 
 lost forty killed, and between fifty and sixty wounded in this action. 
 
 The victorious fleet sailed directly for Callao, but the batteries proved 
 too strong to enable it to assault fourteen sail of shipping, drawn up un- 
 der them i and quitting this place, sailed northward, when a small vessel, 
 laden with salt and sugar, fell into their hands. On the 8th of August 
 anchored near Paita, when the town was plundered and burnt, though 
 neither money nor many valuables were among the booty ; here they re- 
 mained several days, when Spilbergen received a present of fruits from 
 Donna Paula, the wife of the governor, with a request that he would 
 release some of the prisoners taken in the action, an entreaty which was 
 not refused. The quantity of provisions on board being, however, insuf- 
 ficient, boats were sent to the isles of Lobos, near Paita Bay, to procure 
 sea-calves, but the seamen not relishing them, this practice was soon after 
 discontinued. At this place, the voyagers relate that their men caught 
 two birds nearly two ells in height ; they had the beak, wings, and talons 
 of an eagle ; the neck, like that of a sheep ; and on the head a crest, 
 resembling, in some degree, the comb of a cock. A tender to the fleet 
 took a balza, something like a raft, used by the native Peruvians, and 
 on which they go to sea ; this had been out two months fishing, and having 
 salted a large quantity, the prize was valuable to the Hollanders. 
 
 On the 21st of August they quitted Paita, proceeding northward, when 
 it was resolved in council to steer for the Isle of Cocos, at which place 
 they were led to expect refreshments ; the weather, however, proving 
 tempestuous, it could not be found ; and they then determined to sail for 
 the coast of New Spain. On the 10th of October anchored near the 
 entrance to the port of Acapulco, and next day the fleet stood in, when 
 the citadel fired some shots, but on the Dutch commander displaymg a 
 flag of truce for an armistice, it was discontinued, and neither party re- 
 ceived or offered farther molestation. Each, however, kept ready to repel 
 treachery. On the 12th a treaty was concluded with the governor, the 
 terms of which were that no hostility should be committed on either side ; 
 that the admiral shouldTelease all his Spanish prisoners ; and that the 
 Spaniards should furnish the fleet with thirty oxen, fifty sheep, a large 
 quantity of poultry, fruits, wood, and water. By this amicable arrange- 
 ment both were benefited, one saving their town, the other gaining more 
 by forbearance than they could by hostility ; and the agreement was faith- 
 fully fulfilled on both side?. 
 
JORIS SPILBERGEN. l53 
 
 On the 18th of October sailed from this port ; 26th, captured a vessel 
 of little value, except a few provisions. November the 10th, anchored 
 before the port of Salugua, and two boats were sent into that hrirbour 
 to examine a river, which was reported by the prisoners to abound with 
 good fish, and its banks with citron and other fruit trees ; and, at two 
 leagues distant, meadows with cattle grazing. The place corresponded 
 with the description given, but the Dutch had the prudence not to land, 
 numerous footsteps of men who wore shoes being everywhere percepti- 
 ble, though previously informed that Indians only frequented the neigh- 
 bourhood. 
 
 Next day the admiral proceeded thither with 200 men, but were attack- 
 ed, notwithstanding their numbers, as soon as landed, by a strong body 
 of Spaniards, who had concealed themselves in the woods. These were, 
 however, repulsed after a smart conflict, but not without the loss of two 
 men killed and seven wounded on the part of the Dutch, who, afraid of 
 being entrapped, and having their ammunition expended in the engage- 
 ment, re-embarked for the ships. On the 15th sailed for Port de Navi- 
 dad, three or four German leagues distant, where they ^watered without 
 molestation ; and on the 20th quitted it, intending to cruise off Cape 
 San Lucas, for the chance of meeting with vessels from Manilla ; but 
 the winds proving unfavourable, it was at length determined to prosecute 
 the voyage to the East Indies, leaving the coast of America December 
 the 3d for the''Ladrone islands, with a fine wind, sleering west-south- 
 west. On the 3d saw two islands, much to the surprise of the pilots, who 
 did not expect to see any here, at so small a distance from the main land. 
 
 At daylight, on the 4lh, saw a rock at a great distance, which was at 
 first mistaken for a ship ; but on a nearer view were undecieved, and 
 much annoyed at their disappointment ; this rock is situated in latitude 
 19 degrees, and is distant from the continent fifty-five German leagues. 
 On the 6lh, at noon, latitude observed 18 degrees 20 minutes north ; this 
 same day was discovered another island, having five hills, each of which 
 had at first the semblance of being a distinct island ; these islands were 
 respectively Santo Tomas of Grijalvo, Santo Tomas of Villabasa, Roca 
 Partida, and La Aunublada, so called by the Spaniards. 
 
 From this time to the 1st of January, 1 6 Ifi, they steered toward the 
 west, by south and west-south-west, with a favourable wind, having, how- 
 ever, many sick on board, besides several who died. On the 2:Jd made 
 the Ladrone islands, where they trafficked for provisions ; and on the 9th 
 of February came in sight of the Philippines ; the ships of Spilbergeri 
 passing through the channel of San Bernardino about the end of the 
 month, anchored before the Bay of Manilla, where it was intended to re- 
 main till the middle of April, as rich trading vessels from China were ex- 
 pected to arrive near that time. Here they captured a number of small 
 vessels, laden with fruits, poultry, and provisions of various kinds ; some 
 being Chinese, and some Japanese, as well as Spaniards, but they were 
 all equally seized, and distributed to the fleet, the prisoners only being 
 released. 
 
 Intelligence was received by Spilbergen, in the beginning of March, 
 that all the naval force which the Spaniards could muster at Manilla had 
 been sent to the Molucca islands to oppose the Dutch ; that this force 
 consisted of ten large and eight small vessels, in which troops were em- 
 barked, besides many foreigners ; and that they had left Manilla the 4th 
 of February. A council was immediately summoned, when it was re- 
 solved, without delay, to proceed to the assistance of their countrymen ; 
 
154 I'OYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 but, previous to their departure, one of the small prizes, manned with a 
 Chinese crew, was despatched to Manilla with a letter to the governor, 
 in which the admiral offered to exchange his prisoners for any native of 
 Holland who might be detained there. On the 8th took four champans, 
 a kind of coasters, laden with provisions ; and two days afterward, re- 
 ceiving no answer to their proposition, set sail for the Moluccas, where 
 they arrived (at Ternate) on the 29th. 
 
 Spilbergen here was of the greatest service to his country as a warrior, 
 merchant, and negotiator, remaining near these islands till toward the 
 end of the year, when he set sail for Europe, where he arrived with safe- 
 ty, and in credit for the services he had rendered. The journalist of his 
 voyage relates a very interesting fact, not recorded in any other histo- 
 ry of that period, that the Dutch company had 3000 troops, and thirty- 
 seven sail of European shipping, besides country vessels, in the East 
 Indies, in July, 1616 ; a force which two or three years after, no doubt, 
 encouraged them to commit the barbarous massacre of Amboyna upon 
 our unfortunate countrymen. 
 
 JACOB LE MAIRE AND WILHELM CORNELISZ 
 SCHOUTEN.— 1G15-17. 
 
 A BELIEF that to the south of the Strait of Magellan there would he 
 found an open sea, or some other passage leading to the South Sea, had 
 many years been gradually gaining ground, when a company of merchants 
 determined to make the experiment, which, if successful, would open to 
 them, as they believed, the trade to India by a new, instead of an inter- 
 dicted passage,, which Magellan's discovery it seems then was. In case 
 of success, they asked permission from the States-general to an exclusive 
 trade, for the first six voyages, by any new channels or countries they 
 might discover, who, however, as a general decree, granted four such 
 voyages to any of their subjects who might prove so fortunate. 
 
 Jacob lo Maire, son of Isaac le Maire, the principal member of the 
 company, was appointed principal merchant and president of the ships ; 
 and Wilhelm Cornelisz Schouten, an able seaman, received the charge 
 of patron or master-mariner, with a license from the Prince of Orange. 
 The vessels fitted out by the Compagnie Australe or Southern Company 
 for this purpose, were the Eendracht, a ship of 360 tons, nineteen guns, 
 and sixty-five men, and a galliot, named the Home, of 110 tons, eight 
 guns, and twenty -two men. The president, Le Maire, and Patron Schou- 
 ten sailed in the former; the latter was commanded by Jan Schouten, 
 brother to the patron, with Adrian Claesz as principal merchant. 
 
 June the 14th, 1615, quitted the Texel, and in three days anchored in 
 the Downs, where an English gunner was hired. On the 30th of August 
 dropped anchor in the road of Sierra Leone, where a stock of 25,000 
 lemons was purchased from the natives for a few beads. On the 5th of 
 October were in latitude 4 degrees 17 minutes north, when a great noise 
 was heard on board the Eendracht, seeming to proceed from the fore-part 
 of the ship, and immediately after the sea around them became as red as 
 if blood had been effused into it. Afterward a piece of the horn of some 
 sea animal was found sticking in the bottom of the ship, seven feet below 
 the water-line, having penetrated through the planking, and into one of 
 the ribs, about the same length remained without ; it was nearly of the 
 shape and thickness of the end of an elephant's tooth. On the lOth 
 
LE MAIRE AND SCHOUTEN. 155 
 
 caught dorados or dolphins, and about forty bonetas ; on the 20th crossed 
 the equinoctial line, and five days after the plan of the voyage was made 
 known publicly, for the first time, to the officers and seamen cf both vessels. 
 
 On the 4th of December struck soundings in seventy-five fathoms 
 depth, and two days after saw the American coast. On the 8th an- 
 chored in Port Desire, where they took a large supply of sea-lions, pen- 
 guins, birds of many species, eggs, and fish ; some of the former were 
 sixteen feet in length, and were killed by shooting them through the head 
 or belly ; there were also taken in one day, two tons of smelts, many of 
 them sixteen inches in length : all the water, however, was brackish. 
 Upon the summits of the hills were observed mounds of stones, remarked 
 in Oliver Van Noort's voyage, under which were found the bodies of the 
 natives, without any grave. On the 19ih the Home caught fire, and 
 was totally consumed. Soon afterward, however, they found better wa- 
 ter, by watching the tracks of animals toward two pools, where, by dig- 
 ging, they procured four tons, and subsequently ten more. To prepare 
 for a stormy latitude, the guns were struck into the hold. On the 13tli 
 of January, 1616, the Eendracht quitted Port Desire. 
 
 On the 20th, at noon, passed the latitude of the entrance of the straits 
 of Magellan, and by estimation were twenty leagues distant from the land 
 of Terra del Fuego ; at three p. m. next day saw it ; directed their course 
 east-south-east with the hope, as they expressed it, to arrive at the end 
 of the land. On the 24th, at daybreak, saw Terra del Fuego to the 
 right hand, not more than a league off; sailed along it, and saw another 
 country to the east, likewise high and mountainous ; judging these lands 
 to be eight leagues distant from each other, and a passage between them, 
 because the tide ran violeptly toward the south. Here were many pen- 
 guins, and a multitude of whales ; the land to the east was named Staten- 
 land ; no trees were visible on either side, and the sea-birds, unaccustomed 
 10 see men, alighted in the ship without dread. On the evening of the 
 25th the wind, which had been fair, became contrary, but they had good 
 evidence of a wide sea before them, by the colour of the water and the 
 long swell from the south-west. 
 
 On the 29th passed to the north of some rocky islets, which they 
 named isles of Barneveldt ; Terra del Fuego appeared to the west-north- 
 west and west, all hilly land covered with snow, with a sharp point which 
 they called Cape Home, in honour of the town of Home, in West Fries- 
 land, of which the patron was a native. On the 30th, having passed to 
 the south of the cape, steered west, encountering great waves, with a 
 current to the westward. Next day saw no land. February the 3d were 
 in latitude 59 degrees 30 minutes south, highest point to the southward ; 
 weather stormy and wet. On the 12th, reckoned themselves in the lati- 
 tude of the Strait of Magellan, for joy of which triple allowance of wine 
 was given to the seamen ; and, in council, it was resolved to give the 
 name of Le Maire to the strait through which they had passed. The 
 ship continued to advance northward, and in 40 degrees south the guns 
 were replaced on the deck. 
 
 On the 1st of March made the Islands of Juan Fernandez and Masa 
 Fuero, caught two tons of fish, but could not find the anchorage. April 
 the 10th, saw a small low island to the north-north-west, and landed 
 with difficulty on account of the surf; the centre appeared as if over- 
 flowed at high water, and three dogs were found which could not bark ; 
 though no human creature lived here, it was named Houden Eyland. 
 On the 14th saw land extending north-east and south-west, on which 
 
158 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 were many trees ; a canoe came off with four people of a copper colour, 
 quite naked, who stopped at a distance, making signs for the voyagers 
 to go on shore. On the loth the natives on shore waved their garments 
 and boughs of trees in the air to invite their visiters on shore, and three 
 men came in a canoe to meet the boat from the Eendracht, one of whom 
 came on the quarter-gallery, and his first business was to draw out the 
 naiis and iron fastenings, which he endeavoured to hide in his hair ; while 
 a silver cup given him to drink out of could scarcely be got back, he 
 thinking it well as the liquor equally a present. From these people it 
 was understood there were hogs, fowls, and cocoa nuts in abundance 
 upon the island, to which some men were proposed to be sent if a hos- 
 tage would be left for their safe return, but to this the islanders would 
 not consent. 
 
 The ship's boat was, therefore, sent with fourteen men well armed, and 
 vAdrien Claesz, the merchant, to try if provisions could be obtained. 
 Immediately on their landing, about thirty natives issued from the woods, 
 armed with large clubs, who pressed round the Dutch, and endeavoured 
 to take both their merchandise and arms ; while some dragged two sea- 
 men out of the boat, apparently intending to carry them off; to prevent 
 which, two muskets were fired over their heads, which put them to flight. 
 In the beginning of this affray, several of the women came and threw 
 their arms around the necks of the men, and by angry speeches, to draw 
 them away in vain. No farther intercourse took place ; these men were 
 robust and corpulent, their ears pierced, their weapons slings, clubs, and 
 spears ; their dress, a piece of matting round the middle, which in the 
 women reached from the waist below the knee. This was called Son- 
 dergrondt (without bottom) Island, from finding no good anchorage. 
 
 On the 16th another island was discovered to the north, which, like 
 the former, was low and woody, with a salt water lake in the middle, 
 and trees, but none bearing fruit. From finding water here, it was called 
 Waterlandt Island. Two days after another low island was visible, dis- 
 tant about twenty leagues from the former ; natives were seen here, but 
 no intercourse took place with them ; it was termed Vlieghen, or Fly 
 Island. 
 
 May the 8th, latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes south, the distance from 
 the coast of Peru computed to be 1510 German leagues. Saw a sail 
 standing across them to the north, which was first taken to be a Spaniard, 
 but a little more observation showed it did not belong to Europeans ; 
 they steered for it, and after firing two or three guns to bring her to, the 
 meaning of which was not understood, a boat was despatched, which 
 inconsiderately fired musketry at the strangers, one of whom being 
 wounded in the shoulder, leaped into the sea. The rest dreading similar 
 treatment as soon as the boat came near, also threw themselves in, first 
 throwing all their little stock of provisions and furniture before them ; 
 one of these men, fifteen or sixteen in all, took an infant with him ; two 
 only remained in the canoe, with eight women and several children ; but 
 the boat afterward went to the relief of the Indians in the water, though 
 unfortunately several were drowned. 
 
 Every amends they could was afterward made for this unhappy occur- 
 rence ; the wounded were dressed, presents were given them, and all 
 were restored to their canoe, upon which the women expressed extrava- 
 gant joy. These people were of a light copper colour, their clothing 4 
 slight covering round the middle, and the hair of the women cut short ; 
 they had quite consumed their stock of fresh water, as well as the milk 
 
LE MAIRE AND SCHOUTEN. 157 
 
 horn the cocoa nuts. The vessel navigated by these islanders was 
 formed of two large and handsome canoes, placed parallel at the distance 
 of a fathom and a half ; in the middle of each was a broad thick plank 
 of red wood on its edge, across which, from one to the other, were small 
 beams surmounted by a platform, with a shed of matting, under which 
 •were placed the women and children. There was but one mast and one 
 sail, the latter of matting, and having on its upper part a figure like that 
 of a cock, intended perhaps to distinguish to what island the vessel be- 
 longed. Their cordage was well made ; they were also provided with 
 fishing-tackle, the hooks being formed of stone, and the bearded portion 
 of bone, or tortoise shell. Everything was neat and well adapted for sea 
 about this little vessel. 
 
 On the 10th a high island was seen bearing south-west by south, and 
 shortly afterward another near it, long and more level in its surface ; two 
 fishing canoes carried 'lights in the night, one of which came to the ship 
 ^ext morning, to the people of whom beads and other trinkets were 
 thrown, but they would not come on board. As soon as the Eendracht 
 had reached the northernmost island, which was named Cocos, and an- 
 chored, three large sailing canoes and several smaller ones came near 
 her, the people of whom, after holding out a white flag, which was duly 
 answered, ventured on board, and were highly amused by one of the sai- 
 lors playing the fiddle, 200 cocoa nuts, besides yams, were brought on 
 board the same evening, in exchange for nails and beads, and the visiters 
 proved so numerous that the voyagers could scarcely stir about on board, 
 in addition to which, everything portable, even to the cannon balls, was 
 stolen. These men were large and robust, their ears sUt, and their bo- 
 dies tattooed ; a boat sent to examine the southern island was boarded by a 
 number of canoes which surrounded her on every side, and seized the pilot's 
 lead, but one being killed by a musket shot caused the others to retire. 
 
 Next morning, (12th,) many canoes came early to the ship with cocoa 
 nuts, bananas, yams, and small hogs, the men taking their goods often 
 in their teeth and diving under the other canoes in order to get on board, 
 being otherwise unable to reach the ship from the numbers around her. 
 A canoe came also from the southern island with a present, from the king, 
 of a young pig, a cock, and a hen, who followed soon his gift in a large 
 sailing vessel, seated under an awning, and attended by his chiefs and 
 people of consequence, besides thirty-five other canoes in waiting. As 
 he approached he uttered a prayer several times, joined by his attendants, 
 who passed their hands over their heads to the back of the neck. The 
 Dutch on their part sounded their drums and trumpets to honour their 
 visiter, whose messengers cleared the ship of the other natives, repeat- 
 ing the word "/anow," while a present was sent to him. 
 
 This personage, who it seems was not the king, but his son, was called 
 Latou, who, after reciprocal civilities, came on board, and retired repeat- 
 ing the same, inviting them to visit the southernmost island, and pro- 
 mising a plentiful supply of- provisions. Early on the 13th nearly fifty 
 canoes had arrived at the vessel, bringing hogs, fowls, and fruits for traffic, 
 soon after which twenty-three large sailing canoes surrounded the ship, 
 which to the Dutch had a suspicious appearance. Each of these had 
 about twenty-five men ; and one of the largest, which appeared to com- 
 mand the others, had the figure of a cock on her sail in red and gray 
 colours ; several of the natives repeated their advice to carry the ship 
 to the other island, and the son of Latou again came close, but declined 
 tn invitation on board. 
 
 14 
 
158 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 At this time, symptoms appeared as if they were putting their fleet in 
 order of battle, upon which the Eendracht weighed. The Latou was 
 himself with his fleet, when both he and his son quitting the large canoes 
 for small ones, an attack was commenced with huge stones amid inces- 
 sant shouts ; the principal vessel of the natives was impelled forward 
 against the Dutch ship, but of course did no injury, while she was bro- 
 ken to pieces, and the people, among whom were many women, precipi- 
 tated into the water. The great guns and musketry soon dispersed- this 
 armament, which consisted of not less than 1000 men, the king having 
 doubtless mustered his whole force. The president would not stop here 
 any longer ; and, on account of the treacherous conduct of the people, 
 the southernmost was named Traitor's Island- 
 Next morning (14th) land was seen ahead, which, in expectation of 
 finding water, was named Good Hope Island ; it was only two leagues 
 in diameter, but had many trees and habitations ; the natives coming in 
 canoes to barter fish for trinkets. While a boat was employed in sound- 
 ing, fourteen canoes surrounded and attempted to board her, but were 
 repulsed by musketry, and two islanders shot. The rest being terrified 
 at what they saw, fled to the shore, calling aloud, Bou ! Bou ! imitating 
 the report of the muskets, to inform their friends on shore what had 
 happened. On the 18th shaped their course to the northward, being 
 now 1550 leagues from the coast of Peru, and having no hopes of finding 
 a southern continent ; and next day two islands were discovered in about 
 15 degrees south. 
 
 These were of moderate height, the border near the shore of white 
 sand, with abundance of cocoa nut trees, the inland parts mountainous ; 
 many canoes came off", the people shouting loudly, who were answered 
 by drums and trumpets. They resembled the Gobd Hope Island natives, 
 and exchanged fish for beads ; but one making a threatening motion with 
 his spear, and others committing depredations, a quarrel took place, when 
 the sailors fired without orders, and several of the savages were wounded. 
 A boat sent to look nearer the shore was likewise attacked, and six is- 
 landers unfortunately killed. 
 
 These quarrels did not prevent them from coming to the ship on the 
 22d, but none were admitted on board ; they brought provisions of vari- 
 ous kinds, and bargained very fairly, no attempt being made to commit 
 depredations. Two hogs were brought ou board dressed in the island 
 fashion, that is, only half done, their entrails taken out and herbs stuffed 
 in them along with hot stones, which is the common mode of cookery ; 
 a present of a live hog also came from a chief. On the 23d the ship was 
 warped into the bay about a stone's throw from the shore, and in front of a 
 stream of fresh water, which her guns commanded. 
 
 The inhabitants now flocked from all quarters of the island, in order 
 to traffic, and among them numbers of women, which seemed more a 
 proof of confidence and peace than they had yet received ; about 500 
 men, armed with clubs, assembled near an open house or shed, which 
 was the king's, or Areki's, as he is called ; in the evening a present came 
 from him with an invitation on shore, which was declined without 
 hostages. This being complied with, six islanders came off", and three 
 officers went on shore, who were received with due honours by the as- 
 sembled chiefs, who in return received presents from Claesz, the chief of 
 the party, whose shirt being a great object of admiration and desire for its 
 whiteness, was given along with the rest to the Areki. They returned 
 four hogs, and directed every attention and assistance to be paid to the 
 
LE MAIRE AND SCHOUTEN. 159 
 
 watering party. He desired a great gun to be fired, but, along with all 
 his subjects, fled, on hearing it, to the woods, though he soon returned ; 
 a sword was at first stolen by a native, but the culprit was pursued, taken, 
 and received a severe beating from the Areki's officers, alter which, 
 nothing more was stolen durmg their stay. The hostages were soon 
 released on both sides, and an unreserved intercourse established. 
 
 On the 26th the president proceeded on shore in state, with presents 
 for^the king, who received him with great cordiality, and taking from his 
 own and his son's heads, caps, or head-dresses of feathers, put them on 
 those of the two chief merchants. Next evening the seamen remained 
 on shore, full of confidence in their new acquaintance, singing and 
 dancing by the light of the moon to the sound of instruments, in which 
 they were joined by the natives ; while, to add to the amusements of the 
 evening, two of the Dutch went through a mock sword-fight to the great 
 admiration of the natives. 28th, the chief of the neighbouring island 
 visited the Areki of this with due ceremony ; the president also went on 
 shore in the afternoon to a grand feast given to the strangers. Next 
 day he took a walk inland, attended by a son and brother of the Areki 
 as safeguards ; and having finished watering, it was proclaimed to the 
 islanders that they would depart in two days, which news seemed not 
 displeasing from the provisions consumed and the power ihey had dis- 
 played. 
 
 The Areki himself, attended by sixteen of his principal subjects, came 
 on board, a man of good appearance and about sixty years of age ; he 
 brought several presents, and was received with all due honours by the 
 president, who seated him on the gayest cushions, and who afterward 
 accompanied him on shore, strolling through the native habitations where 
 the seamen were busy dancing with the islanders of both sexes. The 
 30th the chief of the other island paid a more formal visit than formerly, 
 being accompanied by a fleet of canoes and a multitude of both sexes ; 
 the meeting was extremely ceremonious between the Arekis, and the 
 Dutch, who were of the party, could not conceive where these people 
 could have learned their taste for so much form and etiquette. Sixteen 
 hogs were roasted on this occasion, and a large quantity of yams and 
 other vegetables dressed to do honour to it, of which at least 900 persons 
 partook. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 31st prepared for sailing, when the two 
 Arekis, attended by their principal people, came on board, wearing green 
 leaves of the cocoa nut round their necks ; provisions were supplied in 
 abundance, and Le Maire, after treating the chiefs with wine, accompa- 
 nied them on shore. At noon put to sea. These were named the 
 Home islands, and the anchorage Eendracht Bay. Le Maire thought 
 they might be the Saloman islands of Mendana. The bay lies in 14 de- 
 grees 66 minutes south. 
 
 20th June, steering to the northward, the latitude was 4 degrees 50 
 minutes south, when in the evening land was seen to the southward ; 
 next morning found it a cluster of small low islands, connected by reefs 
 and sand-banks. Two canoes came oft", one with six, the other with 
 four men, all armed with bows and arrows, the first islanders they had 
 seen with these weapons during the voyage ; presents were made them, 
 but they had nothing to give in return, and would not venture on board. 
 
 Toward evening, on the 22d, saw a group of twelve or thirteen low 
 islands, very smnll in extent, which were named Marquen. Two days 
 afterward three more were discerned, low and full of cneen trees, two of 
 
160 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 them two leagues long each, but the third very small; these were named 
 the Green islands. The same day, in the evening, a high island was 
 observed before them, which was called Jan's Island. 25th, saw very 
 high land, supposed to be the Cape of New Guinea, and by noon were 
 near enough to discover people and habitations ; the boat tried to sound, 
 but was attacked by canoes till compelled to fire in their defence ; at 
 night anchored, and were well watched by the natives. 
 
 The 26ih, eight proas came off with above 40 men, armed with cljibs, 
 slings, and wooden spears or swords, who, notwithstanding friendly signs, 
 commenced an attack, and were answered with cannon and musketry, 
 which caused four canoes to be deserted, and the rest made off. Ten 
 or twelve were killed by this unnecessary severity, and three made pri- 
 soners, who were carried to the shore to be exchanged for provisions, 
 but not being of sufficient consequence to be ransomed in this way, were 
 afterward liberated gratuitously. On the morning of the 30th were near 
 a bay supposed to be in New Guinea, from some island near which 
 several canoes came off, embellished with rude paintings and carved 
 images ; the people had flat noses, thick lips, and wide mouths, with the 
 odour observed in negroes. 
 
 Next day, between the main and a long island, they were visited by 
 several of the people seen the day before, in twenty-five canoes, who, 
 instead of behaving peaceably, commenced a hostile attack and were 
 immediately repulsed, several of them being killed, and one taken pri- 
 soner. July 6lh, saw during these three or four days past a variety of 
 small islands, and a burning isle close to Papua, or New Guinea, from 
 which many canoes came off; observed the water to be discoloured with 
 many limbs and branches of trees floating about, which seemed as if a 
 large river was not far off; were visited on the 8th by the Papuans, or 
 natives, every one of whom was remarked to have some defect in body ; 
 they had black, short, curled hair, wearing rings in their noses, and 
 proved as active, as curious, and as mischievous as monkeys. 
 
 Anchored next day in a bay, on the shores of which were two villages 
 well inhabited, the women and children flocking to look at the ship, but 
 they would not part with their provisions. Weighed again, and coasted 
 three leagues from the shore, passing several islands. On the 15ih 
 were in latitude 1 degree 56 minutes south, and saw two islands covered 
 with cocoa nut trees, well inhabited, when they anchored. Some canoes 
 approached, and a native prepared to shoot an arrow on board, when a 
 musket was fired to prevent him ; after which the patron proceeded with 
 two boats, well armed, to obtain cocoa nuts, but the natives disputed the 
 beach, till a gun from the ship dispersed them. From the woods, how- 
 ever, the Dutch were again attacked, and after a sharp struggle, com- 
 pelled to retreat, with fifteen men wounded, among whom was Adrieu 
 Claesz, who had an arrow through his hand. 
 
 From the smaller island the boats were more successful, where a plan- 
 tation of cocoa nut trees was stripped, and some huts burned, on which 
 the people became more peaceable, bringing off refreshments, and receiv- 
 ing presents in return. July the 23d, passed several small islands, the 
 people of which had tawny complexions and long curling hair, differing 
 a good deal from the Papoas, or Papuans. August the 5th, came to the 
 Isle of Goley, subject to the King of Tidore, after being much embar- 
 rassed for many days by islands, shoals, and unknown tracks, from which 
 they with difficulty got clear. Sailed again next day ; and, after being 
 much delayed by calms, met, September the 17th, with a ship of their 
 
JACOB l'heremite. 161 
 
 own country, one of Admiral Spilbergen's fleet, anchoring the same day 
 at the Island of Ternate, or Terrenate. They were kindly received by 
 the people in power : the Eendracht had not lost one of her crew in this 
 long navigation ; and they had discovered a new passage to the South 
 Sea ; yet these merits did not avail them, for on the arrival of the ship 
 at Jacatra, the present Batavia, in the Island of Java, she was seized 
 and condemned, on a supposed infringement of the rights of the Dutch 
 East India Company, the otficers and crew being put on board other ships 
 to be conveyed to Europe. 
 
 On the 3l8t of December, during the passage home, died the presi- 
 dent, Jacob Le Maire, a victim to the unwortliy treatment he had re- 
 ceived, a worthy man, and a prudent and skilful navigator ; and on th^ 
 1st of July, 1617, his companions arrived in Holland, having been absent 
 two years and seventeen days. 
 
 ADMIRAL JACOB L'HEREMITE.— 1623-26. 
 
 In the beginning of the year 1623 a fleet was equipped, by order of 
 the States-general and Prince Maurice of Nassau, against the Spanish 
 settlements in Peru. This armament consisted of eleven sail of ship- 
 ping, under the orders of Admiral Jacob L'Heremite, an officer who had 
 served the Dutch India Company many years with great reputation A 
 complaint which alflicted him at the most critical period of the expedi- 
 tion, and finally terminated his hfe before he reached Europe, has caused 
 this voyage often to be called that of the Nassau fleet, from Prince Mau- 
 rice of Nassau, a principal promoter of the design. 
 
 The admiral's ship, named the Amsterdam, mounted forty-two guns, 
 with 237 men ; that of the vice-admiral was nearly of equal force, and 
 some of the others little inferior ; the whole number of guns was 294 ; 
 of men 1637, of whom 600 were regular soldiers, with practical pilots 
 and scientific mathematicians, altogether the greatest force ever sent into 
 the South Sea. 
 
 It quitted Goree April the 29th, 1623, under orders to make the pas- 
 sage by the Strait of Le Maire. May the 31st, fell in with a fleet of 
 Barbary corsairs, near Cape St. Vincent, from which several Hollanders, 
 detained prisoners, were taken and distributed in the fleet. June the 4t,h, 
 captured four Spanish vessels from Pernambuco, laden with sugar ; two 
 of these and one of the armament being sent to Holland from their indif- 
 ferent sailing. July the 5th, watered at the Cape de Verde islands ; and, 
 on the 11th of August, anchored at Sierra Leone, having, from the con- 
 tinual rains, a sickly crew. Here presents were obliged to be given to 
 the chiefs before communication was permitted with the shore ; a species 
 of nuts eaten by some of the crew had nearly proved fatal, but for the 
 prompt administration of medicines to counteract their deleterious effects ; 
 forty-two men also perished from dysentery, brought on from eating too 
 many limes, which seamen on a voyage are naturally fond of, though 
 they, as well as other fruits and vegetables, often bring on this complaint 
 if used too freely at first. The admiral was also taken ill. Two ships 
 grounded on a bank near Cape Lopez Gonsalvo, but were soon got off. 
 
 During the passage to the Isle of Annabon, complaint was made 
 against Mr. Jacob Begeer, the principal surgeon of the ship Mauritius, 
 that several of his patients, soon after taking the medicines he had pre- 
 scribed for them, had died in a manner which had given cause to suspect 
 
 14* 
 
162 l-OYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 there was something extraordinary in his practice. The vice and rear- 
 admirals were jointly commissioned to inquire into the truth of this com- 
 plaint. The unhappy surgeon answered the charge with protestations 
 of innocence ; but, as the narrative of the voyage says, there were half 
 proofs against him, torture was applied to make him confess, notwith- 
 standing which he persisted in denial, telling the commissioners they 
 might do what they pleased with him. This being regarded as insensi- 
 bility, created a suspicion that he had a protecting charm ; and, on being 
 searched, the skin and tongue of a serpent were found upon him, which 
 to them seCTned to leave no doubt of the fact, and he was remanded to 
 confinement. Again he was brought before the commissioners, and being 
 let out of irons for this purpose, immediately jumped overboard, but was 
 followed by two men, who supported him in the water till a boat picked 
 them up. After much resolute denial, the poor man's constancy was 
 overpowered by their cruelties, and he was compelled to confess that he 
 had caused seven men to die because the care of them gave him too 
 much trouble ; also, that he had tried to enter in a compact with the 
 devil, whose presence and protection he had invoked, but this cunning per- 
 sonage it seems would not appear. On this foundation, the wretched 
 man was beheaded on board his ship, on the 18th of October, an instance 
 of superstition, barbarity, and folly, not exceeded by any of the savages 
 of the countries ihey meant to visit. 
 
 On the 29th of October made the Isle of Annabon, subject to the Por- 
 tuguese, and abounding in fruits ; a compact of amity between the Dutch 
 and the governor was agreed upon, the former to procure refreshments, 
 and the latter to be permitted to remain unmolested ; oxen, hogs, goats, 
 poultry, and other provisions, were consequently procured in abundance. 
 The island lies 10 degrees 20 minutes south, is six leagues in circuit, 
 with a tolerable anchorage for ships ; grows some cotton, and is said to 
 have civet cats in the mountains ; 200,000 oranges were sent on board ; 
 and water is plentiful, but difficult to be got at, on account of the surf 
 on the beach, which is often fatal to boats. 
 
 On the 11th of November sailed, and advancing ninety leagues to the 
 west-south-west, found the south-east trade wind, and then stood for the 
 coast of Brazil ; near which, on the 19th and 20th of January, 1624, ob- 
 served the sea discoloured with an infinite number of small shrimps. 
 On the 28th one of the prize barks separating from the fleet, and being 
 unable to rejoin, bent her way homeward. Three days afterward the 
 fleet made Cape de Penas, on Terra del Fuego, about mid-way between 
 the Canal de San Sebastian and Cape St. Ines. 
 
 On the 2d of February entered Strait Le Maire, which they would not 
 have suspected if the pilot of the Eendracht had not recognised the high 
 mountains on the western side ; the marks for its entrance are high, 
 broken, and mountamous land on the eastern side, while on the other, a 
 western shore, are seen several round hills close to the sea-side. Two 
 of the ships anchored in a bay of Terra del Fuego, trafficking with the 
 natives for seal skins, and caught also i large quantity of shell and other 
 fish ; this place, after the rear-admiral, was named Verschoor Bay. 
 Another of the ships anchored in a very tolerable harbour, which was 
 called Valentine's Bay. 
 
 On the 14th of February, having passed through the strait several 
 days, observed the compasses to differ much from each other ; latitude 
 r>6 degrees 20 minutes south. Cape Horn bearing west seven leagues 
 distant. Being afraid of falling to leeward of this point, the admiral ran 
 
JACOB l'heremite. 163 
 
 for a bay in Terra del Fuego, afterward named Nassau Bay, where the 
 fleet anchored ; here was found plenty of water, but no fish, except 
 shell-fish ; one of the coves of this bay was named Schapenham Bay, 
 after the vice-admiral. 
 
 On the 24th, a storm having forced the boats off to the ships, leaving 
 nineteen men behind unprovided with arms, seventeen were found killed 
 by the natives on their return, the other two having escaped by conceal- 
 ment ; no quarrel, it seems, had taken place, but being defenceless, this 
 was a sufficient reason for the savages. The vice-admiral being ordered 
 to examine the coast, reported that the whole of Terra del Fuego is di- 
 vided into many islands, and that to pass into the South Sea it is not 
 necessary to double Cape Horn, for that on every side there were open- 
 ings, bays, and gulfs, running into the land as far as the eye could dis- 
 tinguish. 
 
 The natives are said by these voyagers to be as white as Europeans 
 when young, which they saw in several infants, but that the constant 
 use of oil and dirt, with exposure, changes the natural colour in adults. 
 Most of them paint their bodies with a species of red ochre, some with 
 white ; they are well proportioned, about the stature of the whites, have 
 long, thick, black hair, and teeth filed as sharp as the blade of a ktife. 
 The men were entirely without clothing ; the women with a slight cover- 
 ing round the waist, and necklaces of shells ; they also were painted, like 
 the men. 
 
 Their huts were formed of trees, of a circular form, diminishing at 
 top to a point, with an opening for the smoke. They had lines, hooks, 
 and harpoons for fishing, all neatly made ; and they never were seen 
 abroad without their arms. They possessed boats made from the bark 
 of large trees, and very dexterously curved, something like Venetian 
 gondolas, and from ten to sixteen feet long ; no religion or government 
 seems to exist among them, and they cat everything raw. 
 
 'On the 27th of February quitted Nassau Bay, the wind westerly, Juan 
 Fernandez being appointed the rendezvous in case of separation. On 
 the 8th of March were in 61 degrees south ; three of the ships straggled 
 from the fleet, and on the 28th the admiral saw the coast of Chih ; 
 April the 6th, he anchored at Juan Fernandez, where three soldiers and 
 three gunners from the vice-admiral's ship chose to remain in preference 
 to going to sea. 
 
 On the 3d of May had sight of the coast of Peru, and on the 8th, 
 nearly abreast of Callao, took a small bark with eleven men ; from whom 
 the admiral heard that the treasure fleet, consisting of five ships richly 
 laden, had sailed from Callao for Panama. The Spanish admiral, in a 
 ship of 800 tons and forty-two guns, with two smaller vessels of war, 
 were still in the former port, besides a great number of merchant vessels ; 
 to protect which, there were not more than 300 soldiers, while the na- 
 tives and negroes were inclined to rise against their masters. Upon this, 
 a council of war was held, whether to pursue the galleons or attack Cal- 
 lao ; the latter was resolved upon, the command now devolving on the 
 vice-admiral, Schapenham, in consequence of the extreme ill health of 
 L'Heremite. 
 
 On the 9th the troops embarked in the boats, but, on account of the 
 surf and the Spaniards on the beach, did not persist in landing ; during 
 the two following days the commander seemed at a loss what to do ; in 
 the night of the 12th an attack was made on the merchant vessels, about 
 fifty in number, when they were set on fire, instead of being brought off, 
 
164 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 which might have been easily accomplished ; but all their measures now 
 indicated neither spirit nor perseverance, and farther operations were 
 confined merely to predatory excursions, instead of attempting the town 
 and fleet at once. 
 
 On the 2d of June the admiral, L'Heremite, died, a man of skill and 
 courage, to whom no part of the misconduct or ill success of his fleet 
 was owing. Two attempts were made upon a ship, the Recargo, which 
 had on board some of the treasure not carried away in the fleet, but with 
 some want of success attending all their other enterprises. Some of the 
 Spanish prisoners applied for an exchange, but the governor replied, that 
 they had only powder and ball at the service of the Hollanders, an an- 
 swer which proved fatal to his unfortunate countrymen ; for, immediately 
 on receiving it, those detained in the Dutch fleet, twenty-one in number, 
 were hanged at the yard-arm of the Amsterdam, a most barbarous and 
 unjustifiable proceeding, for which no apology ever was or could be of- 
 fered. 
 
 Schapenhara was now ashamed of the insignificant part he was acting 
 with so large a force, but did not appear to know what to do. At one 
 time it was determined to proceed against Chili, for which various prepa- 
 rations were made. August the 5th, Gruaquil was captured by two ships 
 under Verschoor, the rear-admiral, who set it on fire ; 100 Spaniards 
 being killed in its defence, and seventeen prisoners taken, who were 
 barbarously thrown into the sea, under the pretence of treachery. 
 
 On the 14th left the anchorage off Callao, where no water could be 
 procured, and proceeded twenty miles to the southward, where the 
 landing being good, and their force unbroken, an easy descent and march 
 to the city was practicable. This, however, was neglected. A second 
 attempt was made upon Guaquil without any apparent object, and proved 
 extremely disastrous, twenty-eight men being killed in a shameful retreat, 
 though the attacking force was double that formerly successful. 
 
 A resolution was now taken to go to Acapulco, to wait for the galleon ; 
 here Schapenham attempted to negotiate with the governor, who, how- 
 ever, would not listen to him ; and though the face of the former was 
 sufficient to procure anything on the coast for the supply of his fleet, it 
 was not tried, as if his incapacity should be plainly discernible in every 
 part of his command. November the 29th, after various contradictory 
 determinations, the fleet finally quitted this coast for the East Indies ; 
 thus cheaply freeing the Spaniards from the formidable force which threa- 
 tened their possessions in Peru, and which, skilfully and courageously 
 applied, might have gone far to dispossess them of it. 
 
 In fifty-seven days the fleet made Guaham, or Guam, one of the La- 
 drones, when 150 canoes came off to barter yams and cocoa nuts for 
 such trinkets and metal implements as the voyagers had to spare ; for 
 the scurvy had made great ravages, "and some ships were so weak as 
 scarcely to be able to work their sails. February the 11th, sailed for 
 the Moluccas, and four days after saw land, high, and seemingly well in- 
 inhabited and cultivated ; several canoes attempted to follow them, but 
 in vain ; the people resembled the Ladrone islanders. March the 4th, 
 anchored at the Island of Terrenate. 
 
 Here the voyage of the Nassau fleet may be said to have terminated, 
 the ships having separated upon different services in the East Indies. 
 In October Schapenham embarked, being in a bad state of health, on 
 board the Eendracht, at Batavia, but died early in November. The ope- 
 rations of his fleet were, therefore, of no importance in any point of view, 
 
jACOft ROOGEWElPf. 105 
 
 the military transactions being contemptible, and the discoveries being 
 confined to the knowledge of Nassau Bay, and a more accurate idea of 
 the nature of the southern portion of Terra del Fuego. 
 
 ADMIRAL JACOB ROGGEWEIN.— 1721-23. 
 
 Jacob Roggewein, bred originally to the law, had been to the East 
 Indies as counsellor in a court of judicature, but returning home with a 
 good fortune, presented a memorial to the Dutch West India Company 
 to proceed in search of southern unknown lands, a project which his 
 father had adopted fifty years before, though without meeting the desired 
 patronage. His son was now more successful, the company adopting 
 his plan, and appointing him admiral. 
 
 On the 21st of August, 1721, he departed from the Texel, in the 
 Eagle, carrying thirty-six guns and 111 men ; with the Tienhoven, 
 twenty-eight guns and 110 men, and the African galley, of fourteen guns 
 and sixty men. Near the Canary islands they were attacked by a fleet 
 of pirates, who were beaten off, though with the loss of several men. 
 At Brazil nine men deserted ; after quitting it, they looked in vain for 
 Hawkins' Maiden Land,* but pretend to have found an island 200 leagues 
 in circuit, and distant from the American coast about 200 leagues. Here 
 they separated in a storm from the Tienhoven. The other ships passed 
 through Strait Le Maire, and, March the 10th, anchored at the Isle of 
 Mocha, where there were no other inhabitants than dogs and horses ; 
 from this they made Juan Fernandez, and met with the Tienhoven, who 
 had passed through the Strait of Magellan, and reached the present 
 anchorage only one day before them. Here they procured provisions 
 from the land, as well as the usual abundant supply of fish. 
 
 Quitting this island, saw, on the 6th of April, an island, which, being 
 the anniversary of the Resurrection, was named Easter Island ; next day 
 it seemed well inhabited, and a native came off to look at the ships from 
 a distance, but, in endeavouring to return, was intercepted by the boats 
 and brought on board. He was of robust make, of a brown complexion, 
 and quite naked ; his ears remarkably long, supposed to be from the 
 weight of ear-rings. Presents of various descriptions were made him, 
 all which were hung round his neck, and made perfectly merry with the 
 sailors, calling out as he returned on shore, 0-dorroga 0-dorroga, sup- 
 posed to be addressed to some large idols observed upon the coast. 
 
 On the 9th the natives were observed to prostrate themselves toward 
 the sun, and lighting fires before their idols ; several came to the ships, 
 among whom was their first visiter, and another man who seemed quite 
 white, and from his serious deportment was believed to be one of their 
 priests. Next day the admiral landed, with 150 men armed, as if for an 
 invasion. The natives met them on the beach, and, though unarmed, 
 seemed to dispute their right to disembark, by pushing against those who 
 landed and touching their arms, when a volley of musketry, fired among 
 the crowd, killed several and put the rest to flight, a severity not at all 
 required by the occasion. 
 
 The consternation of these poor people was extrems, making the most 
 doleful lamentations over the dead. Men, women, and children then came, 
 
 * It is just announced in the newspapers, (May 1820,) that this island, 
 though never seen since that time, has lately been observed by the ship Wil- 
 liam, from Monte-Video, bound to Chili. 
 
166 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 carrying branches of the palm tree, falling on their knees, and offering 
 presents of nuts, plantains, sugar canes, roots, and fowls, to their more 
 barbarous visiters, who gave presents of cloth and trinkets in return. 
 No quadrupeds were visible, but hogs seemed to be known by the notice 
 taken of those on board. Each family seemed to have its own hamlet ; 
 the houses are from forty to sixty feet in length, constructed of timbers, 
 and thatched with palm leaves ; the land was cultivated, and marked by 
 exact and regular enclosures. 
 
 The people are slender in person, well made, and run swiftly, of mild 
 behaviour, their complexion brown, like that of the Spaniards, though in 
 many instances whiter ; their bodies painted with all manner of figures 
 of birds and animals. The women were mostly painted of a bright red 
 colour, with partial coverings of linen and a stuff like silk, and wore small 
 hats formed of rushes or straw. What is very remarkable, the men seemed 
 to have no hostile weapons, apparently putting their trust in their idols. 
 These were of stone, thrice the height of a man, well proportioned, with 
 great ears, and the head ornamented by a crown ; parapet walls enclosed 
 these gigantic figures, and they were attended by men shaven on their 
 heads, who were doubtless priests. 
 
 No chief appeared among these people, nor any one who seemed to 
 have any particular command, except some of the most aged, who wore 
 plumes and carried staves, as if the patriarchal government prevailed 
 among them. It was the admiral's intention to traverse the island next 
 day, in order to examine it more particularly ; but a strong west wind 
 came on, by which two of the ships broke from their anchors, and render- 
 ed it necessary for the whole to proceed to sea for safety. Latitude of 
 this discovery 27 degrees south. 
 
 Early in May, in 15 degrees 45 minutes south, saw an island, low and 
 sandy, with a lagaon, or lake, in the centre, which was named Carlfs-hof, 
 but which some believed to be the Houden Isle of Le Maire and Schouten. 
 On the 20th the African galley, the look-out vessel, found herself in the 
 night among a cluster of low islands all at once, and before she could 
 avoid the danger, ran upon them between two rocks ; but firing signal 
 guns to her consorts, they had time to haul off and keep clear of difficul- 
 ties. The report of the cannon brought down a number of the natives, 
 who lighted fires in several places ; the Hollanders, alarmed for their 
 safety, fired in the direction, and dispersed them. 
 
 At daylight next morning the Eagle and Tienhoven found themselves 
 in a great measure encircled by land, there being four large islands and 
 many islets and rocks in sight, so that they could not distinguish by what 
 channel they had entered. For five days they could not clear those dan- 
 gers ; the galley was irretrievably lost, and her crew divided between 
 the other ships, except five men, who took to the woods, and having be- 
 haved improperly would not return, choosing rather to remain among 
 savages, of whose disposition, persons, or manners they were totally igno- 
 rant. At a detachment sent in pursuit of them, they fired from the woods, 
 and though promised pardon, would not quit their retreat. These were 
 called the Schaadelyk or Pernicious islands. 
 
 On the 26th of May saw another island at daybreak, upon which t>r€y 
 would have run had they continued on a mile farther ; and toward evening 
 another, the former being called Daageraad, the latter Abendroth, or 
 Daybreak and Evening Islands. These are supposed to be the Sonden- 
 Grondt and Vlieghen Islands of Le Maire. 
 
 On the 29th came to a group of islands named the Labyrinth, six or 
 
JACOB ROGGEWEIN. 167 
 
 eight in number, from which it was difficult to get clear ; tney did not 
 anchor, but though no inhabitants appeared, there was ample evidence 
 of their existence, by the number of fires and quantity of smoke which 
 were discernible. June the Ist, approached an island of good appea 
 lance, situated 16 degrees south, and about twelve German leagues ir 
 circuit, to which was given the name of Verquikking, or Recreation Is 
 land. This was high land, and of course very different from the others 
 Two boats, with twenty-five men in each, were sent, armed, to look foi 
 anchoring ground and refreshments, when the natives advanced into the 
 water to oppose their landing, but were dispersed by the fire of musketry. 
 Signs of friendship were, however, made to them, and farther intercourse 
 took place, assisted by mutual presents. 
 
 The next day a stronger party quitting the ships, made presents of 
 beads and looking-glasses to the person who seemed to be chief; who, 
 however, received them with disdain, though cocoa nuts were given in 
 return. After filling twenty sacks with herbs for the use of the sick, the 
 Dutch advanced into the country, but were repeatedly advised by the 
 chief not to do so, till at length a shower of stones from the offended 
 natives wounded several, which was answered by a volley of musketry. 
 Several fell by this act of retaliation, but the savages, undaunted, con- 
 tinued the fight with increasing numbers and fury, so that the Dutch 
 were at length forced back to their boats, every one severely wounded 
 and many even killed, with so strong an impression on the minds of the 
 seamen, that none, after this time, would volunteer to proceed in the 
 boats to unknown islands, where there was any doubt of the disposition 
 of the people. 
 
 The natives here were robust, well made, active and dexterous in any- 
 thing they undertook, having long shining black hair, anointed with cocoa 
 nut oil ; they were painted all over the body, like the people of Easter 
 Island ; the men wearing a kind of net-work round their waists, the wo- 
 men wholly covered with a stuff soft to the touch, and adorned with 
 ornaments of pearl shell. It has since been supposed that this island 
 is the one now known by the name of Ulietea. 
 
 A council of the officers was now called by the admiral, who commu- 
 nicated to them his instructions, that if, after arriving at a certain longitude, 
 he did not discover a country worth taking possession of, he was to bend 
 his course homeward ; on which they unanimously agreed that, from the 
 exhausted state of their provisions, the number of sick, and the state of 
 the vessels, it was not possible to return by Cape Horn ; and, therefore, 
 the only way was by the East Indies. 
 
 Thirteen days after, June the 15ih, quitting Recreation Island, they 
 discovered a group which, after the captain of the Tienhoven, was named 
 Bauman's islands ; they were pleasantly interspersed with hills and val- 
 leys, and ten or twenty German miles in circuit, latitude 13 degrees 41 
 minutes south. Numbers of natives flocked off to them in boats neatly 
 made, who exchanged fish, cocoa nuts, and plantains, for beads and other 
 trinkets, the shores also being crowded with spectators. In one of the 
 canoes sat a mu\ to whom the other islanders showed great respect, and 
 by his side a young woman nearly vi^hite ; the complexions of the majority 
 were also but little different from Europeans, except what the tanning of 
 the sun and constant exposure had effected. They appeared a good kind 
 of people, their bodies not painted, but clothed from the waist downward 
 with a species of fringes of silken stuff, and wearing necklaces of odori- 
 ferous flowers. These are considered the Navigator's islands of M. 
 Bougainville. ^ 
 
168 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Quitting these, where Roggewein would not make any stay, lest he 
 Bhould lose the monsoon for the Er.st Indies, they next day saw two is- 
 lands, supposed to be those of Cocos and Verrader of Le Maire, but 
 more probably those of Horn and Wallis's Islands. Shortly afterward 
 they distinguished two more of very considerable size, which were named 
 Tienhoven and Groningen Islands ; but though they coasted them the 
 whole of the day without discovering the termination of the former, yet 
 no attempt was made to land, from the admiral's anxiety to proceed to 
 India, though scurvy and dysentery raged so much on board, that refresh- 
 ments were of the utmost importance to their welfare. Three, four, and 
 five men died daily, and some with their last breath cursed their com- 
 mander for not trying to obtain that relief which was so near them. 
 
 July the I8th, saw New Britain, the people being of a copper colour, 
 with long black hair, and apparently of hostile dispositions ; dropped the 
 anchor at the Islands of Moa and Arimoa, where refreshments might 
 have been procured by barter, but Roggewein adopted the more summary 
 method of taking them by force of arms, landing a body of men, cutting 
 down the cocoa nut trees, and firing upon the natives without any pre- 
 vious quarrel. This track had before been followed by Le Maire and 
 Schouten, and Tasman, and the good effects of their mildness was obvi- 
 ous in the friendly dispositions of the people, till it was foolishly destroyed 
 by Roggewein. 
 
 Pursuing his course westward, he passed between the north-west part 
 of New Guinea and Gilolo. In September he made the coast of Java, 
 and anchored at Japara, where the Dutch East India Company had a 
 fort, where many of his men were landed, while notice of his arrival was 
 sent to the governor-general at Batavia. Altogether, they had lost 
 seventy men by sickness, besides those killed in skirmishes with the na- 
 tives, and thirty were landed here. 
 
 Roggewein, who had no license from the company to come to India, 
 which it seems all ships were obliged to have, ought to have avoided 
 their settlements ; but going afterward to Batavia, upon invitation of the 
 governor-general, his ships were seized, as in case of Le Maire and Schou- 
 ten, condemned, and the crews distributed in the homeward-bound ^eet. 
 
 In the sequel, the Dutch West India Company appealed against this 
 decision with full success, the East India Company being obliged to re- 
 fund the value of the vessels seized, and to pay the seamen their wages 
 till the day of their arrival in Holland. 
 
 Roggewein, therefore, made a few discoveries, but no voyager has 
 been so unfortunate in not having a journalist to record them properly, 
 or even to afford correct latitudes ; longitudes of any accuracy not being 
 expected. Neither himself nor any one under his directions gave the 
 narrative to the world, the accounts being principally anonymous, often 
 varying in the circumstances, as well as contradictory in dates 
 
 COMMODORE ANSON.— 1740-44. 
 
 As it was foreseen, in the latter end of the summer of the year 1739, 
 that a war with Spain was inevitable, it was the opinion of several per- 
 sons then in administration, that it would be a stroke of admirable policy 
 to attack the enemy in some of her distant settlements, and thereby de- 
 prive her of that treasure by which alone she could be enabled to carry 
 on the war. The squadron under Mr. Anson's command consisted of 
 six vessels of war and two victuallers. These were the 
 
GEORGE ANSON. 
 
 m 
 
 Ships, 
 
 Commanders. 
 
 Guns. 
 
 Men. 
 
 Centurion 
 
 George Anson, Esq. 
 
 60 
 
 400 
 
 Gloucester 
 
 Richard Norris 
 
 m 
 
 300 
 
 Severn 
 
 Edward Legge 
 
 60 
 
 300 
 
 Pearl 
 
 Matthew Mitchell 
 
 40 
 
 250 
 
 Wager 
 
 Dandy Kidd 
 
 28 
 
 160 
 
 Trial Sloop 
 
 John Murray 
 
 8 
 
 100 
 
 On the 18th of September, 1740, the squadron weighed anchor from 
 St. Helen's. It had been proposed to embark three independent compa- 
 nies, of 100 men each, and Colonel Bland, with his own regiment, as 
 commander-in-chief of the land forces ; but by some unaccountable in- 
 fatuation, this appointment dwindled into 470 invalids, draughted from 
 Chelsea, and commanded by Lieutenant-colonel Cracherode. Mr. Anson 
 made the best of his way to Madeira, but had the mortification not to 
 reach it till the 25th of October. 
 
 On the 3d of November weighed from the Island of Madeira, intend- 
 ing to go to St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verde islands ; but next day, 
 when at sea, on considering how far the season was advanced, he altered 
 this resolution, and appointed St. Catherine's, on the coast of Brazil, to 
 be the first place of rendezvous in case of separation. On the IGlh of 
 December they discovered the land of Brazil, and on the evening of the 
 ISlh cast anchor at the north-west point of the Island of St. Catherine's. 
 Their first care, after having moored their ships, was to get the sick men 
 on shore, into tents which were erected for their reception. The dis- 
 eased on board the Centurion amounted to eighty, nor were their num- 
 bers proportionably less on board the other vessels ; yet the land air was 
 of so little advantage, that they buried twenty-eight from the commo- 
 dore's ship, and carried away ninety-six in a very weak condition. 
 
 Their next employment was to wood and water the squadron, calk 
 the ships' sides and decks, and secure the masts and rigging against tem- 
 jpestuous weather, expected in the voyage round Cape Horn ; the dan- 
 gers of which were so evident, that Mr. Anson appointed three different 
 places of rendezvous. The first was Port St. Julian, where they were 
 to be stationed for ten days, and take in salt ; the second, the Island of 
 Nostra Senora del Socoro, there to ply off and on as long as their store 
 of wood and water would permit ; and then to proceed to Juan Fernan- 
 dez, to take in a fresh supply. Under these orders the squadron left St. 
 Catherine's on Sunday, the 18th of January. On the 18th of February 
 came to an anchor in the Bay of St. Julian, on the coast of Patagonia. 
 That part of the southern continent of America unoccupied by the Spa- 
 niards, extending from their settlements to the straits of Magellan, called 
 by that name, is remarkable for being one continued chain of downs, 
 covered with long tufts of coarse grass, interspersed with barren spots, 
 where only gravel is to be seen. 
 
 The principal matter which detained the squadron, the refitting of the 
 Trial, being completed, the commodore held a council of officers on board 
 the Centurion, and informed them that his orders were to secure some 
 port in the South Seas, where the ships in the squadron might careen and 
 refit ; and proposed to attack Baidivia, the principal frontier of Chili ; to 
 which every member consenting, new instructions were given to the cap- 
 tains of the squadron, importing that in case of separation, they were to 
 cruise ten days off the Island of Nostra Senora del Socoro ; when, if not 
 joined by the commodore, they were to proceed and cruise for fourteen 
 
 15 
 
170 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ilays off the harbour of Baldivia ; after which time, if they were not 
 joined by other ships, they were to direct their course to Juan Fernan- 
 dez. Each captain was at the same time directed not to separate from 
 the Centurion, unless in case of unavoided necessity, more than two miles. 
 
 These orders being issued, the squadron stood to sea on the 27th of 
 February, in the morning, when the Gloucester, not being able to purchase 
 her anchor, was obliged to cut her cable and leave her best bower behind. 
 On the 5th of March discovered the land of Terra del Fuego, which 
 affords a most dreaiy prospect. On the 7th they opened the straits Le 
 Maire, through which, though seven or eight leagues long, they were 
 hurried by the rapidity of the tide in about two hours ; and as these are 
 generally reckoned the boundaries of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, 
 the men began to flatter themselves that their dangers were almost at an 
 end, and that they should soon take possession of those riches on which, 
 in imagination, they had so long feasted. But they had scarcely reached 
 the southern extremity of the straits, before these agreeable prospects 
 entirely vanished ; the wind shifted and blew in violent squalls, and the 
 tide turned furiously against them, driving to the eastward with such 
 rapidity, that the two sternmost vessels, the Wager and the Anna Pink, 
 with the utmost difficulty, escaped being dashed in pieces on the shore 
 of Staten-Iand. 
 
 For above three months from this time they struggled with such dan- 
 gers and distresses as are scarcely to be paralleled, and had such a con- 
 tinual succession of tempestuous weather as astonished the oldest sailors 
 on board, who unanimously confessed that what they had hitherto called 
 storms were inconsiderable gales, compared to the violence of these 
 winds, which raised such short and mountainous waves as filled them with 
 continual terror ; for had but one of these waves broke, it must, in all 
 probability, have sent them to the bottom. 
 
 On the 1st of April the weather, after having been a little more mode- 
 rate, returned to its former violence, the sky looked dark and gloomy, 
 and the wind began to freshen and blow in squalls ; and appearances were 
 such as plainly indicated a severe tempest at hand : and accordingly, on 
 the 3d, there came on a storm, which exceeded in violence and duration 
 all they had hitherto encountered. On the 13th they all expected, by 
 their reckoning, in a few days to have enjoyed some ease in the Pacific 
 Ocean ; but the next morning, between one and two o'clock, the weather 
 clearing up a little, and the moon shining out on a sudden, the Anna 
 Pink made a signal for seeing land right ahead ; and it being then only 
 two miles distant, they were under the most dreadful apprehensions of 
 running on shore ; and had not the wind suddenly shifted, or had not the 
 moon shone out, every ship must have perished. They found this land, 
 to their great astonishment, to be Cape Noir, though they imagined they 
 were 10 degrees more to the west ; for the currents had proved so strong, 
 that when expecting to be in 19 degrees west, they had not really ad- 
 vanced half that distance. After this mortifying disappointment, they 
 stood away to the southward, with the weather tolerably favourable, tiH 
 the 24th of April, on the evening of which day the wind increased to 
 a prodigious storm, and about midnight the weather became so thick 
 that the whole squadron separated, nor met again till they reached tho 
 Island of Juan Fernandez. To add to their other misfortunes, the scur- 
 vy began to make such havock, that on board the Centurion only it car- 
 ried off forty-three men in the month of April, and twice that number in 
 May. 
 
GEORGE ANSON. 171 
 
 On the 8th of May the Centurian arrived off the Island of Socoro, in 
 which station they cruised for several days, in hope of being joined by 
 some of the scattered ships, but to no purpose. On the 22d of May the 
 fury of all the storms they had hitherto encountered seemed to combine 
 and conspire their destruction. Almost all the sails were split, the rig- 
 ging destroyed, and a mountainous wave breaking over them on the 
 starboard quarter, gave the vessel so prodigious a shock, that several of 
 the shrouds were broke, and the ballast and stores so strangely shifted, 
 that she lay on her larboard side. The wind at length abating a little, 
 they began to exert themselves to stirrup the shrouds, reef new lanyards, 
 and mend the sails ; during which they ran great risk of being driven on 
 shore on the Islandof Chiloe. But the wind happily shifting to the south- 
 ward, they steered off land with only a mainsail, there being no person left 
 to manage the helm but the master and the reverend Mr. Walter, the com- 
 modore's chaplain, the rest being all busily employed in securing the masts 
 and bending the sails. After encountering many difficulties, they at length 
 reached the Island of Juan Fernandez on the 9th of June, in a most de- 
 sponding condition, with great scarcity of fresh water, and the crew so 
 diseased that there were not more than ten foremast men in a watch ca- 
 pable of doing duty ; and even some of these were lame and incapable 
 of going aloft. i 
 
 The Island of Juan Fernandez, when first discovered, appears to be 
 surrounded with craggy broken precipices ; the prospect, however, on a 
 nearer approach, changes into a landscape the most beautiful that can be 
 imagined ; a prospect which, though at any time sufficiently delightful, 
 was uncommonly so to the few surviving sailors, who now beheld a land 
 covered with wooJs, interposed with carpets of the loveliest verdure, and 
 watered with numerous streams and cascades, the idea of tasting which, 
 revived the spirits of those who were almost dying of thirst, The nor- 
 thern side is composed of a range of craggy hills, covered with aromatic 
 trees, none of which are large enough to yield timber of any considerable 
 size. Water-cresses, purslain, wild sorrel, turnips, Sicilian radishes, 
 and many other vegetables peculiarly adapted to the cure of the scurvy, 
 abound everywhere on the island ; the numberless beauties of which 
 cannot fail to charm all those who have a true taste for the beauties of 
 unassisted nature, which greatly excel the laboured efforts of art. The 
 great number of goats which former navigators have found on this island, 
 have been much diminished by the dogs set on shore here by the Spa- 
 niards. Among the goats which fell into the hands of Mr. Anson's men, 
 were found two or three of a very venerable aspect, which, from having 
 their ears slit, they imagined had formerly belonged to Selkirk. The 
 dogs, having increased to a prodigious number, have made themselves 
 masters of all the accessible parts of the island, while the few remaining 
 goats inhabit the high grounds, and secure the narrow passes by a con- 
 stant guard. 
 
 The people of the Centurion fed on the sea-lion, under the denomina- 
 tion of beef. Great numbers of these animals haunt this coast during 
 the winter. They are in size, when at the full growth, from twelve to 
 twenty feet in length, and from eight to fifteen feet in circumference : 
 and so extremely fat, that, after having been cut through the skin, there 
 is at least twelve inches of fat before either lean or bone is found, and 
 the fat of the largest frequently yielded a butt of oil. As soon as the 
 ship was brought to a safe birth, their first care was to erect tents for the 
 reception of the sick, the number of whom amounted to 167 persons, 
 
172 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 twelve or fourteen of whom died in the boats on being exposed to the 
 fresh air. As the greater part were quite helpless, it was necessary to 
 remove them in their hammocks ; in which laborious employment the 
 commodore and his ofiicers assisted. So inveterate was the disorder, 
 that its first fury did not abate in less than twenty days after landing ; 
 and, for the first ten or twelve days, they buried six or seven people dailv j 
 and it seemed as if no remedy could have repelled the power of the dis- 
 ease. Their next care was thoroughly to cleanse the ship, which had 
 become extremely loathsome. This done, they proceeded with all pos- 
 sible expedition to lay in wood and water, in doing which they made the 
 more haste, as they feared the return of Pizarro's squadron : for it waa 
 evident, from the heaps of fresh ashes and scattered fragments of fish- 
 bones, that they had been lately here, as it was impossible the English 
 should be yet acquainted with their melancholy situation. Nor were 
 they in present circumstances, with only about thirty healthy hands, to 
 man a sixty- gun ship, a match for any vessel of force. 
 
 A few days after the Centurion had arrived, the Trial sloop appeared 
 in sight, and was brought into the harbour by the help of some men des- 
 patched to her assistance by Mr. Anson, in the long-boat, as she had 
 only three men, besides Captain Saunders, her commander, and her lieu- 
 tenant, able to stand to the sails ; having buried thirty of her hands, and 
 the rest being down with the ecurvy. The Gloucester was discovered 
 to leeward on the 21st of June, making the best of her way for the 
 island, though they were not convinced that it was her till the 26lh, 
 when she appeared full in view, and the commodore immediately des- 
 patched his long-boat on board, with a supply of fresh water and vegeta- 
 bles, of which she was in the utmost need. Without this timely relief 
 her people had certainly e.xpired through thirst, being then at the allovv- 
 ance of a pint of water each man per day, and having no more than 
 enough to serve them twenty-four hours, even at that quantity. It was 
 the misfortune of this vessel to be continually driving on and off the 
 island, till the 23d of July, sometimes out of sight of the land, in the 
 greatest distress imaginable, and in the utmost danger of foundering. 
 These difficulties were occasioned by contrary winds and currents ; but, 
 at length, however, she made the north-west point of the island, and came 
 to an anchor at a time when her people began to despair of almost ever 
 gaining land, or seeing any period to their calamities but by death. The 
 Anna Pink arrived about the middle of August, which, with the Trial 
 and Gloucester, mentioned above, were the only vessels that ever joined 
 the squadron ; for the Severn and Pearl, having parted from the commo- 
 dore off Cape Horn, with difficulty reached Brazil, whence they made 
 the best of their way back to Europe ; while the Wager was wrecked 
 on the coast. 
 
 The Gloucester, before she made Juan Fernandez, having been in sight 
 of Masa Fuero, Mr. Anson, imagining that either the Pearl or Severn 
 might touch there, despatched the Trial to inquire if his suspicions were 
 well founded. She returned, after having sailed quite round the island, 
 without getting any intelligence of them. The Spaniards have always re- 
 presented Masa Fuero, which they call the Lesser Fernandez, as a barren 
 rock, without wood, water, or any kind of provisions ; but this is not true. 
 Thelatterpartof the month of August was taken up in unloading the Anna 
 Pink, which, upon a close examination by the carpenters, was judged unfit 
 for service, and therefore, upon a petition of Mr. Gerard, her master, to 
 the commodore, she v/a& purchased for the use of the squadron, for XSOO, 
 
GEORGTB ANSON. 'ITS 
 
 to be. paid to the owners ; and her men, together with the master, were 
 sent on board the Gloucester. The remaining crews, which were now 
 to be distributed among three ships, amounted only to 350, a number in- 
 sufficient to have manned the Centurion alone, and at the best scarcely- 
 enough to work them all. About eleven in the morning of the 8ih of 
 September, they discovered a sail ; when the Centurion, being in the 
 greatest forv\ardness, made after her as fast as possible. Night coming 
 on, they lost sight of the chase, and the next morning could not discern 
 her from the mast-head, but kept on a south-east course, in hope of suc- 
 cess, supposing her bound to Valparaiso. 
 
 About three, on the morning of the 12tb, a brisk gale springing up at 
 west-south-west, obliged them to lie upon a north-west tack, which at 
 break of day brought them within sight of a sail, at about five leagues 
 distance, but not the same they had seen before. She appeared to be 
 a largo vessel, and upon hoisting Spanish colours, and bearing toward 
 the Centurion, the commodore ordered everything ready for an engage- 
 ment ; but upon coming nearer, she appeared to be a merchantman, 
 without a single tier of guns, and had mistaken the commodore for her 
 consort. She surrendered at the fire of only four shot ; and Mr. Sau- 
 marez, first Ueutenaut of the Centurion, was ordered to take possession 
 of the prize, and to send all the prisoners on board the commodore. 
 This vessel was called the Nuestra Senora del Monte Carmelo ; her 
 cargo consisted of sugar, cloth, cotton, and tobacco, having also on board 
 some trunks of wrought plate, and twenty- three serons of dollars, each 
 weighing upward of 200 pounds averdupois. The intelligence obtained 
 from the prisoners was of the utmost consequence to the English ships ; 
 for they now first learned part of the fate of Pizarro's squadron, and also 
 that the viceroy of Mexico had just taken off an embargo that had been 
 laid upon all shipping in those seas, supposing that the English squadron 
 had perished in doubling Cape Horn, it being solely on their account that 
 the embargo had been laid on. 
 
 It appearing from letters on board the prize that several other mer- 
 chantmen were at sea, between Callao and Valparaiso, the commodore 
 having put ten of his own hands on board the Trial sloop, sent her to 
 cruise off the last-mentioned port. At the same time he ordered Cap- 
 tain Mitchell, in the Gloucester, to proceed to 50 degrees south latitude, 
 and cruise off the Island of Paita, till he should be joined by the Centu- 
 rion ; and he put on board her twenty-three sailors and six passengers 
 from the Carmelo, which was fitted out as a cruiser, with four six pound- 
 ers and two swivels. The Centurion and her prize weighing from the 
 Bay of Juan Fernandez on the 19th of September, took her course to 
 the eastward, proposing to join the Trial off Valparaiso. 
 
 On the 24th, in the evening, they came up with the latteV, having 
 taken a prize of 600 tons burthen, laden with a cargo like that of the 
 Carmelo, with about £5000 in ready money. On the 27th, the weather 
 proving more moderate, the captain of the Trial came on board the 
 Centurion, bringing with him an instrument, subscribed by himself and 
 all his officers, setting forth that the vessel was so leaky and defective, 
 that it was at the hazard of their lives they staid on board ; upon which, 
 the commodore having ordered everything that was useful to be put on 
 board the prize she had taken, together with Captain Saunders and the 
 crew, she was scuttled and sunk. It was now resolved to join Captain 
 Mitchell, stationed off Paita, that if a Spanish squadron should be fitted 
 out at Callao, they might be able to give it a warm reception. With 
 
 15* 
 
iVT^ VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 •this view they stood to the northward, and on the 5th of November fell 
 in with a sail, which, after pursuing till an hour and a half after dark, 
 struck to them. Mr. Dennis, third lieutenant of the Centurion, was sent 
 with sixteen men to take possession. She was called the Santa Teresa 
 de Jesus, burthen about 300 tons, bound from Guaquil to Callao, laden 
 with hides, timber, tobacco, cocoa, cocoa nuts, quinto thread, (which is 
 very strong, and made of a species of grass,) quinto cloth, and about 
 £170 in money. All the prisoners, on their first falling into the hands 
 of the English, had exhibited the utmost signs of fear, expecting nothing 
 but the most barbarous treatment ; they even acknowledged, so strong 
 was their prepossessions, that after having for some time experienced Mr. 
 Anson's civil and polite behaviour, they could scarcely credit their own 
 /eelings. 
 
 On the 10th of November, lying at three leagues distance from the 
 Island of Lobos, looking out for the Gloucester, whose station had been 
 appointed here, they discovered a sail, which Lieutenant Brett was 
 ordered to chase, with the Trial's pinnace and barge. It was soon disco- 
 vered that it was not the Gloucester ; and as there was no wind, the 
 lieutenant soon came up with, and boarded her, without any resistance 
 on the part of the enemy. She was called the Nuestra Senora del Car- 
 min, bound from Panama to Callao, about 270 tons burthen, had forty- 
 three mariners on board, with various kinds of merchandise, of little 
 value to the captors, but a greater loss to the Spaniards than any capture 
 made in any part of the world ; for the cargo was of more than 400,000 
 dollars value, prime cost, at Panama. From the prisoners they learned, 
 that a few days before, a vessel had entered Paita, the master of which 
 told the governor he had been chased by a very large ship, which, from 
 her size and appearance, he imagined to be one of the English squadron, 
 and that the governor had immediately sent an express to Lima, to carry 
 the news to the viceroy, while the royal officer residing at Piifla had been 
 busily employed in removing both the king's treasure and his own to Piura, 
 a town fourteen leagues within land. Still there was a large sum of 
 money, belonging to the merchants, lodged in the custom-house, and 
 intended to be shipped on board a vessel then in the port, which was to 
 sail with all expedition for Sonsonnate, on the coast of Mexico, to pur- 
 chase part of the cargo of the Manilla ship. It was at once conjectured 
 that the ship which had chased the vessel into Paita was the Gloucester ; 
 and as the vessel in which the money was to be shipped was esteemed a 
 prime sailer, they concluded they had no chance of coming up with her 
 if suffered to escape out of the port. 
 
 As they were now discovered, and the coast would soon be alarmed, 
 so as to prevent cruising to any advantage, the commodore resolved to 
 endeavout to surprise the place that very night. This attack upon Paita, 
 besides the treasure it promised, afforded a prospect of supplying them- 
 selves with provisions, of which they were in great want ; and an oppor- 
 tunity of setting their prisoners on shore, who were now very numerous, 
 and made a greater consumption than their stock was capable of furnish- 
 ing for any considerable time. The town consists of about 200 houses, 
 each one story high, the walls being made of split cane and mud, and 
 the roofs only a covering of leaves. The only defence of Paita was a 
 fort, without either ditch or outwork, surrounded with a brick wail of small 
 strength, in which were mounted eight pieces of cannon, and the garrison 
 consisted of only one weak company ; though it was thought the town 
 was able to arm 300 men. 
 
GEORGE ANSON. 175 
 
 To prevent any confusion which might arise from ignorance of the 
 streets, two Spanish pilots were ordered to conduct the Ueutenant to the 
 best landing place, and to be his guides on shore. When the ships were 
 within fiveleagues of Paita, about ten o'clock at night, Lieutenant Brett, 
 with the boats under his command, put off, and arrived, without being 
 discovered, at the mouth of the bay ; though he had no sooner entered 
 it, than some of the people on board a vessel riding at anchor there, per- 
 ceived him, and immediately getting into their boat, rowed toward the 
 shore, crying out, " The English, the English dogs," &c., by which the 
 town was alarmed, and the men in the boats could perceive several lights 
 hurrying backward and forward in the fort, and other marks of the inhabi- 
 tants being in motion. On this, Mr. Brett encouraged his men to pull 
 up briskly, and go on shore before the guns could be fired from the fort ; 
 when, drawing up his men under the shelter of a narrow street, they 
 instantly marched to the parade, a large square at the end of this street, 
 with drums beating, and loud shouts of joy ; and were there saluted with 
 a volley of small shot from some merchants who had posted themselves 
 in a gallery that ran round the governor's house ; but upon the fire being 
 returned, they abandoned the post, and left the JSnglish in possession of 
 the parade. The lieutenant now divided his men into two parties, one of 
 which he ordered to surround the government-house, and, if possible, to 
 secure the governor, while he marched at the head of the other to the 
 fort, with an intention to force it, but the enemy had made their escape 
 over the walls on his approach, so that he entered without opposition. 
 Thus the town was taken in less than a quarter of an hour from their 
 first landing, with the loss of one man killed and two wounded. 
 
 In the interim, the Centurion and the other ships, making easy sail 
 toward Paita, opened the bay about seven in the morning, and at twelve 
 came to an anchor at a mile and a half from the town. This day and 
 the following were spent in sending on board the treasure, consisting of 
 the most valuable things to be found in the town, with boat-loads of hogs, 
 fowls, and other refreshments. The commodore, to prevent surprise in 
 the night, sent a reinforcement on shore, which was posted in all the 
 passages leading to the parade, while the streets were fortified with barrica- 
 does six feet high for better security ; but as the enemy remained quiet 
 all night, they resumed their former employment of loading and sending 
 off their boats early in the morning. The business at Paita being pretty 
 well over on the third day, the 15th of November, the commodore put 
 all the prisoners, eighty-eight in number, on shore, agreeably to his pro- 
 mise, giving orders that they should be secured in one of the churches 
 till the men were ready to embark. Mr. Brett then, agreeably to his 
 orders, distributed pitch, tar, and other combustibles, of which there were 
 great quantities in the town, into houses situated in different streets ; that 
 the place being fired in different parts at the same time, the destruction 
 might be the more violent and sudden, and that the Spaniards might not 
 be able to extinguish it when he was gone. Then, having spiked the 
 cannon in the fort, and set fire to such houses as were to windward, he 
 collected his men, of whom there was only one missing, and marched 
 toward the boats, which were ready to carry them off. They were just 
 quitting the beach, and the last man was actually embarked, when they 
 heard the voice of a person entreating them to take him on board, for by 
 this time the beach was so covered with smoke that they could not discern 
 any one, when one of the boats advancing to the place whence the sound 
 issued, found the man whom they had inissed up to the chin in water, 
 
176 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 having waded as far as he durst, as he could not swim, and excessivefy 
 terrified lest he should fall into the hands of the enemy. 
 
 They weighed anchor from the coast of Paita about midnight, on the 
 16th of November, the squadron being increased to six sail, that is, the 
 Centurion, the Trial's prize, the Carmelo, the Carmin, the Teresa, and 
 the Solidad. They stood to the westward, and in the morning the com- 
 modore ordered the ships to spread to a considerable distance, in order 
 to look out for the Gloucester, for they then drew near the station 
 where she had been ordered to cruise. On the morning of the 18th 
 they discovered her, with a small vessel in tow, which joined them about 
 three in the afternoon, when they learned that Captain Mitchell had taken 
 two prizes, one of which was a snow, whose cargo consisted of wine, 
 brandy, and olives, and about £7000 in specie ; and the other was a 
 launch, the people on board which, when taken by the Gloucester's barge, 
 were at dinner, served up in silver dishes. Notwithstanding this circum- 
 stance, the prisoners alleged that they were very poor : having nothing 
 on board but cotton made up in jars, which, being removed on board the 
 Gloucester, were strictly examined, when the whole appeared to be a 
 very extraordinary piece of false package ; there being cancealed among 
 the cotton doubloons and dollars to the amount of £12,000. 
 
 They now steered for Quibo, an island situated in the mouth of the 
 Bay of Panama ; and the commodore proposed, after they had supplied 
 themselves with water, to steer for the southern parts of California, or 
 the adjacent coast of Mexico, there to cruise for the Manilla galleon, 
 which was known to be at sea on her way to Acapulco ; and as it was 
 BOW only the middle of November, and the ship did not usually arrive 
 till the middle of January, they did not doubt of getting on that station 
 time enough to intercept her. They were eight sail in all, but the Soli- 
 dad and the Santa Teresa being bad sailers, and delaying the rest of the 
 squadron, the commodore ordered them to be cleared of everything use- 
 ful and then burnt ; and, having given proper instruction to the Gloucester 
 and the other vessels, the Centurion held on her way for Quibo. On the 
 3d of December they came in sight of it. This island is extremely con- 
 venient for wooding and watering, as trees grow close to high water mark> 
 and a rapid stream of fresh water runs over the sandy beach into the 
 sea ; so that in two days the Centurion was able to lay in a sufficient 
 stock of these articles. 
 
 On the 12th of December they stood from Quibo to the westward, 
 having scuttled and sunk the last prize, and being joined by the Glou- 
 cester, which, having sprung her fore- topmast, had been separated from 
 them. The commodore proceeded to cruise for the Manilla ship, having 
 first given directions to his squadron to use all possible despatch in get- 
 ting to the northward of the harbour of Acapulco ; and, in case of separa- 
 tion, to rendezvous at the middle island of the Tres Marias ; and, if they 
 missed him there, at the Island of Macao, on the coast of China. They 
 made no doubt that they should soon arrive at their intended station, as 
 they expected to fall in with the regular trade wind ; but, to their great 
 mortification, were harassed with contrary winds, heavy rains, or dead 
 calms for near a month, and began to despair of intercepting the Manilla 
 «hip ; but at length their spirits were somewhat revived by a favourable 
 change in the wind. 
 
 The commodore sent his barge, on the 12th of February, in search of 
 the harbour of Acapulco, and to discover whether the galleon was arrived* 
 which returned on the 19th, with the news that they had discovered th» 
 
GEORGE ANSON. 177 
 
 harbour, and that, having got within the island that lies at the mouth of 
 it, they were doubtful how to proceed ; but, while lying upon their oars, 
 ignorant that they were then at the very place sought for, they discerned 
 a light near the surface of the water ; on which, plying their paddles, 
 and nnoving as silently as possible in the direction, they found it to be a 
 fishing canoe, which they surprised, with three negroes on board. 
 
 From these men the commodore learned that the galleon arrived at 
 Acapulco on the 9th of January, old stile ; that she had delivered her 
 cargo, was taking in water and provisions, in order to return, and that the 
 viceroy of Mexico had by proclamation fixed her departure from Acapulco 
 on the 14th of March, new stile. This news gave them great joy, as 
 they had no doubt but she must certainly fall into their hand.'. On the 
 1st of March, the time for her departure drawing nigh, the commodore 
 disposed his five ships in such a manner, that they took up a compass of 
 at least twenty-four leagues, within which nothing could pass without its 
 being known by the whole squadron ; the vessels being so judiciously 
 ranged, that by signals information could be easily and speedily given of 
 what passed in any part of the line. From this time to the 23d they 
 were in hopes of her, satisfied that she had not quitted the harbour ; but, 
 by this time, the whole fleet beginning to be in want of water, it was 
 agreed to proceed to Chequetan to supply themselves : and lest the gal- 
 leon, taking advantage of their absence, might slip out to sea, Mr. Hughes, 
 lieutenant of the Trial's prize, was ordered to cruise off the port of Aca- 
 pulco for twenty-four days, that if she should set sail, they might be 
 speedily informed of it. 
 
 On the 1st of April they were advanced so far toward Chequetan that 
 the commodore sent out two boats to discover the watering place, which 
 being gone several days, their water ran so short, that if they had not 
 met with a daily supply of turtle, which prevented their being confined 
 only to salt provisions, they must have suflfered very considerably in so 
 warm a climate. The harbour lies in 17 degrees 36 minutes north lati- 
 tude, and is about thirty leagues to the westward of Acapulco ; from 
 which last place there is a bank of sand extending eighteen leagues 
 to the westward, against which the sea breaks so violently, that it is 
 impossible to land with boats on any part, yet the ground is so clean, 
 that durmg the fair season ships may anchor in great safety, at the dis- 
 tance of a mile or two from the shore. As the country appeared to be 
 well inhabited, the commodore had hopes to have easily procured some 
 fresh provisions, and other refreshments, of which they were in want ; 
 and, therefore, on the morning after his coming to an anchor, despatched 
 a company of forty men, well armed, into the country, to try if they could 
 discover any town or village, and settle a correspondence with the inhabi- 
 tants. These men having proceeded about five miles from the harbour, 
 found two roads, leading east and west ; choosing the latter, they marched 
 along a beaten track, which led them into a large plain, on one side of 
 which they saw a sentinel on horseback, with a pistol in his hand ; but 
 the horse starting at the glittering of their arms, turned suddenly round 
 and ran away at a great rate ; the man being very nigh unhorsed, and 
 dropping his hat and pistol on the ground. The sailors in vain pursued 
 to discover the place of his retreat, till quite wearied out, and finding no 
 water to quench their thirst, returned. As it now appeared they had 
 not more hands than were necessary to man a fourth-rate man-of-war, it 
 was resolved to scuttle and destroy the Trial's prize, the Carrinelo, and 
 the Carmin, and to divide their crews and the richest part of their car- 
 
178 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 goes between the Centurion and Gloucester, which was done accordingly 
 on the 27th of April ; and next morning the Centurion and Gloucester 
 weighed anchor, leaving behind a letter corked up in a bottle, and placed 
 in a canoe, which was fixed to a grapnel in the middle of the harbour, 
 directed to Mr. Hughes, and acquainting him that the commodore was 
 returned to his station off Acapulco ; that he intended to quit it in a few- 
 days, and return to the rest of his squadron, which continued cruising to 
 the southward. These last words were inserted to deceive the Spaniards, 
 in case the canoe should fall into their hands, as afterward happened. 
 
 On Sunday, the 2d of May, they were advanced within three leagyes 
 of Acapulco, and finding nothing of the cutter, Mr. Anson took it for 
 granted that it was taken and carried into the port ; and, therefore, wrote a 
 polite letter to the governor, requesting him to deliver up Mr. Hughes and 
 his people ; and in return promised to release all the Spanish prisoners 
 now in his hands, some of whom were people of figure. 
 
 While waiting for an answer to this letter, the sentinel from the mast- 
 head called out, that he saw a boat under sail, at a considerable distance 
 to the south-east ; and on their approach they found, to their great joy, 
 it was their own. 
 
 Quitting now the coast of America, they stood for China, the 6th of 
 May, 1742, and stood over to the south-west, with a view of meeting 
 with a north-east trade wind, which the accounts of former writers had 
 taught them to expect at the distance of seventy or eighty leagues from 
 the land. The Gloucester, which was become very bad, was cleared of 
 everything by the 15th of August, and then set on fire, being no longer 
 fit for any purpose ; the flames gaining upon her gradually, and her guns 
 going off one by one, as the flames reached them, till at length, about six 
 in the morning, she blew up. 
 
 On the 23d of August, at daybreak, they had the pleasure of discover- 
 ing two islands to the westward, and the next morning a third ; on which 
 their boat was despatched to one of them, which returned in the evening 
 with an account that they could find no anchoring ground. 
 
 On the 26th lost sight of Annatacan, but next morning discovered 
 three other islands, which were afterward found to be Saypan, Tinian, and 
 Aiguigan, and immediately steering toward the middlemost of the three, 
 which was Tinian, hoisted Spanish colours, with a red flag at the fore-top- 
 mast head, in hope that, by giving their ship the appearance of the Manilla 
 galleon, they might decoy some of the inhabitants on board. A Spaniard 
 who came off, being immediately examined, said, that the island was 
 uninhabited, notwithstanding which, it wanted but few of the accommoda- 
 tions that could be expected in the most cultivated country ; that the 
 air was good, and there was plenty of excellent water ; that the woods 
 afforded sweet and sour oranges, limes, lemons, and cocoa nuts in great 
 abundance, besides a fruit peculiar to these islands, which served instead 
 of bread ; and that hogs, poultry, and black cattle ran wild in prodigious 
 numbers ; that the Spaniards at Guam made use of it as a store for 
 supplying the garrison, of which he was a sergeant, and was now sent 
 thither with twenty-tvvo Indians to jerk beef, which he was to load for 
 Guam on board a bark of fifteen tons, which was then at anchor near 
 the shore. 
 
 Next morning a party of men, well armed, were sent on shore to secure 
 the landing place, which was done without difficulty, as the Indians were 
 fled into the woods. They found many huts, which saved them the trouble 
 of erecting tents ; and the largest of these, being twenty feet long and 
 
GEORGE ANSON. 179 
 
 fifteen broad, was immediately fitted up as an hospital, to which they 
 removed the sick, amounting to 128. 
 
 Tinian lies in 15 degrees 8 minutes north latitude, about twelve mile 
 long and six broad, and is one of the Ladrone islands, which, altogether, 
 are upward of twenty in number. The soil is everywhere dry and 
 healthy ; the land rises in gentle slopes to the middle of the island, though 
 the gentle course of its ascent is often interrupted by valleys of an easy 
 descent, many of which wind irregularly through the country. These 
 valleys, and the gradual swellings of the ground, occasioned by their 
 different combinations, were most elegantly diversified by the mutual 
 encroachment of woods and lawns, which bordered on each other, and 
 ran in large tracts through the island. 
 
 The cattle, of which it is not uncommon to see herds of several hun- 
 dreds feeding together in a large meadow, are all of them milk white, 
 except their ears, which are generally brown or black ; and, though there 
 are no inhabitants, yet the clamour and frequent appearance of domestic 
 poultry, which range the woods in great numbers, perpetually excites the 
 idea of the neighbourhood of farms and villages, and greatly contributes 
 to the cheerfulness and beauty of the place. They likewise found abun- 
 dance of wild hogs, which were excellent food ; but as they were a fierce 
 animal, it was necessary to shoot them, or hunt them with large dogs, 
 which they found upon the place at their landing, and which belonged 
 to the detachment sent to procure provisions for the garrison at Guam. 
 
 The bread fruit above-mentioned, which the Indians call rhymay, was 
 constantly eaten by the Centurion's people instead of bread, and so 
 universally preferred to it, that none of the ship's bread was expended 
 during their stay on the island. It grows on a lofty tree, which, toward 
 the top, divides into large and spreading branches ; the leaves are of a 
 deep green, notched about the edges, and from a foot to eighteen inches 
 in length. The fruit, which is found indiflferently on all parts of the 
 branches, is in form nearly oval, is covered with a rough rind, is generally 
 seven or eiglit inches long, each growing singly, and not in clusters. 
 This island was formerly well peopled, but a contagious sickness having, 
 about fifty years ago, swept away almost all the inhabitants of Guam, 
 Rota, and Tinian, the Spaniards compelled the survivers on the last two 
 islands to remove to Guam, where they languished after their native island, 
 till in a few years the greatest part died of grief. 
 
 On the night of the 22d of September, when it was excessive dark, 
 the wind blew from the eastward with such fury, that those on board 
 despaired of riding out the storm. At this time Mr. Anson, who was 
 ill of the scurvy, and most of the hands were onshore, and all the hopes 
 of safety of those on board seemed to depend on putting immediately to 
 sea ; all communication between the ship and theisfand being destroyed, 
 aa it was impossible a boat could live. 
 
 About one o'clock a strong gust, attended with rain and lightning, drove 
 them to sea, where, being unprepared to struggle with the fury of the 
 wind and waves, they expected each moment to be their last. When, 
 at daybreak, it was perceived by those on shore that the ship was missing, 
 they concluded her lost, and most of them begged the commodore to send 
 the boat round the island to look for the wreck. In the midst of their 
 gloomy reflections the commodore formed a plan for extricating them from 
 their present situation ; which was by hauling the Spanish bark on shore, 
 sawing her asunder, and lengthening her twelve feet ; which would enlarge 
 her to near forty tons burthen, and enable her to carry them all to China. 
 
 The carpenters of the Gloucester and Trial fortunately were both on 
 
180 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 shore with their chests of tools ; the smith also was on shore with his 
 forge, and several of his implements of trade. And it was now found 
 on examination that the tents on shore, with the sails and rigging belong- 
 ing to the bark, and the spare cordage which had been accidentally landed 
 from the Centurion, would be sufficient to rig anew the vessel ; the bot- 
 tom of which they proposed to pay with a mi;iture of tallow and lime. 
 
 But a most discouraging circumstance now occurred, which was, that 
 they had neither compass nor. quadrant on the island. At length, on 
 rummaging a chest belonging to the Spanish bark, they found a small 
 compass, which, though not much superior to those made for the amuse- 
 ment of school-boys, was to them of the utmost value. 
 
 When these several obstacles were removed, and all things were so 
 forward that they had fi.xed on the 5th of November as the day on which 
 they intended to put to sea, it happened, on the afternoon of the 11th of 
 October, that one of the Gloucester's men, being upon a hill, saw tVie 
 Centurion at a distance ; who running with the ntn.ost speed toward the 
 landing place, he, in the way, saw some of his comrades, to whom he 
 cried out, in great ecstasy, "The sliip, the ship!" By five o'clock she 
 was visible to them all, after an absence of nineteen days ; and a boat 
 was sent off with eighteen men, to reinforce her, and with fresh meats 
 and fruit for the refreshment of the crew ; she the next afternoon cast 
 anchor in the road, when the commodore went on board, and was received 
 with hearty and sincere congratulations. 
 
 On the 14th of October, being the third day after their arrival, a sudden 
 gust of wind drove her to sea a second time ; but in about five days 
 more the weather being fair, they returned again to anchor, and relieved 
 those they had left behind from their second fears of being deserted by 
 their ship. On coming to an anchor after the second driving off to sea, 
 they laboured incessantly to get in a stock of water sufficient for their 
 passage to Macao, which having completed by the 20th of October, they 
 set fire to the bark and proa, hoisted in their boats, and got under sail, 
 steering away toward the south end of the Island of Macao, 
 
 The Ladrone or Marian islands were first discovered by Magellan, in 
 the year 1521, and from the account given of the first two he fell in with, 
 it should seem that they were those of Saypan and Tinian, for they are 
 described as very beautiful islands, and as lying between fifteen and six- 
 teen degrees of north latitude. There are generally reckoned twelve of 
 these islands ; but if the small islets and rocks are counted, their whole 
 number will amount to above twenty. They were formerly well inhabited, 
 and about the beginning of the present century Guam, Rota, and Tinian, 
 are said to have contained 50,000 people ; but since that time Tinian 
 has been entirely depopulated, and no more than two or three hundred 
 Indians have been left at Rota. 
 
 Guam is esteemed about thirty leagues in circumference, and contains 
 near 4000 inhabitants, of which 1000 are supposed to live in the city of 
 San Ignatio de Agana, where the governor usually resides ; this island, 
 on account of the refreshment it yields to the Manilla ship, is reckoned 
 a post of some consequence ; it has two castles, and a battery of five 
 pieces of cannon near the sea-shore. The Spanish troops employed here 
 consists of three companies of foot, of between forty and fifty men each. 
 
 The Indians are a strong, bold, well-made people, and from some of 
 their practices, particularly the contrivance of the flying proa, seem to be 
 nowise defective m understanding. These flying proas, which for ages 
 past have been the only vessels they have used, are of a very extraordi- 
 nary fabric, and are said, with the help of a trade wind, to be capable of 
 
GEORGE ANSON. 181 
 
 ranning near twenty miles in an hour. The head and stem of this vessel 
 are exactly alike, but her two sides are widely different. That intended 
 to be always the lee side being flat, wjiile the windward side is built 
 rounding in the manner of other vessels ; and to prevent her oversetting, 
 which, from her small breadth and the straight run of her leeward side, 
 would otherwise infallibly happen, there is a frame laid out from her to 
 windward, to the end of which is fastened a hollow log, fashioned into 
 the shape of a boat. The weight of the frame is intended to balance 
 the proa, and the small boat, which is always in the water, is to prevent 
 her oversetting to the windward. The body is formed of two pieces 
 joined endwise, and sewed together with bark, for there is no iron used 
 in her construction. She is about two inches thick at the bottom, which 
 at the gunwhale is reduced to less than one. The proa usually carries 
 six or seven Indians ; two of which are placed in the head and stern, 
 who steer the vessel alternately with a paddle, according to the tack she 
 goes on, he in the stern being the steersman ; while the other Indians 
 are employed in bailing out the water which she accidentally ships, or 
 in setting and trimming the sail. 
 
 Having doubled the southern extremity of Formosa, as they were 
 passing by the rocks of Vele Rete, there was an outcry of fire on the 
 fore-castle, on which the whole crew instantly flocked together in the 
 utmost confusion ; so that the ofl[icers were for some time unable to 
 reduce them to order ; which, however, being at length effected, it was 
 perceived that the fire proceeded from the bricks in the furnace being 
 overheated, which had communicated the fire to the adjacent wood- work ; 
 but by puUing down the brick-work it was easily extinguished. About 
 midnight, on the 5th of November, they made the main land of China ; 
 and not rightly knowing their course, lay by for the night, and before 
 sunrise were surprised to find themselves in the midst of an incredible 
 number of fishing boats, which spread over the sea as far as the eye could 
 reach ; and though some of the boats had five, and none less than three, men 
 in each, the commodore could neither by signs, by pronouncing the word 
 Macao, nor by showing a number of dollars, entice any one to come on board 
 and pilot him ; for the disregard these people paid to everything but their 
 own employment, and their want of curiosity, was perfectly surprising. 
 
 On the 6th, standing to the westward, within two leagues of the coast, 
 they perceived a boat ahead blow a horn and wave a red flag, which they 
 considered as a signal of some sort intended for them ; but in this they 
 were mistaken, for it was only a signal to order the people to leave off 
 fishing. About four o'clock in the morning of the 9th, a Chinese pilot 
 came on board the Centurion, and told them, in broken Portuguese, that 
 he would carry the ship into Macao for thirty dollars ; which being paid 
 him they proceeded. About ten o'clock in the morning of the 12th, they 
 came to the harbour of Macao, a small island at the mouth of the river 
 Canton, which is in the hands of the Portuguese, who have a governor 
 here ; who, however, subsists merely by the courtesy of the Chinese, 
 Two days after this, a mandarin of the first rank, with two of an inferior 
 class, came alongside of the Centurion, with a large retinue of officers 
 and servants and a band of music. 
 
 The commodore observing his astonishment, harangued on the strength 
 of his vessel ; and observed, that his thus civilly requesting a supply, 
 which he was so well able to take by force, was a proof of the friend- 
 ship of his disposition ; and, therefore, desired that a daily supply of 
 provisions might be ordered him, lest his men should be reduced by fa- 
 
 16 
 
182 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 mine to turn cannibals and prey upon their own species ; in which case, 
 it was easy to be foreseen, that, independent of their friendship to their 
 comrades, they would in point of luxury prefer the plump well-fed Chinese 
 to their own emaciated shipmates. The discourse produced the desired 
 effect ; the mandarin allowed the justness of Mr. Anson's observations, 
 and promised that he should have every necessary assistance, as soon as 
 the state of his circumstances had been considered by a council of man- 
 darins at Canton. 
 
 On the 6th of April the Centurion weighed for Typa, and having got 
 into Macao road, completed her water as she passed along ; and her whole 
 business being finished by the 19th, she stood out to sea. It happened 
 soon after this, that the commodore, who had taken some Chinese sheep 
 to sea, inquiring of his butcher, " Why he had lately seen no mutton at 
 his table 1" the fellow seriously answered, *' That there were but two 
 sheep alive ; and if his honour would give him leave, he proposed to 
 keep those for the entertainment of the general of the galleon." 
 
 On the last day of May, new stile, they came in sight of Cape Espiritu 
 Santo, where they continued to cruise till the 20th of June, old style, 
 when about sunrise the long-expected vessel came in sight, having tho 
 standard of Spain flying at the top-gallant-mast head, and to the commo- 
 dore's great surprise, bore down upon him, for he could hardly beUeve, 
 what afi&rward appeared to be the case, that he knew his ship, and was 
 resolved to fight him. The engagement soon began, and lasted an hour 
 and a half, when the galleon struck to the Centurion, after having had 
 sixty-seven men killed and eighty-four wounded, among whom was the 
 general, Don Jeronimo de Montero, a Portuguese gentleman, who acted 
 with the utmost bravery. The Centurion had only two killed and seven- 
 teen wounded, all of whom, except one, afterward recovered. The great 
 slaughter on board the galleon was chiefly owing to thirty excellent marks- 
 men, who, being placed in the tops before the engagement began, did 
 execution with almost every shot they fired. The prize, which was named 
 the Nostra Signora de Cabadonga, carried 550 men, and thirty-six guns 
 mounted for action, besides twenty-eight patararoes, each of which was 
 adapted to carry a four-pound ball. Her cargo was worth £400,000 sterling. 
 
 It is impossible to describe the transports on board, when, after all their 
 reiterated disappointments, they at length saw their wishes accomplished. 
 But their joy was near being suddenly damped by a very alarming acci- 
 dent ; for no sooner had the galleon struck, than one of the lieutenants, 
 coming to Mr. Anson to congratulate him on his prize, whispered him, 
 that tha Centurion was dangerously on fire near the powder-room. The 
 commodore received this shocking intelligence without any apparent emo- 
 tion, and taking care not to alarm his people, gave the necessary orders 
 for extinguishing the fire, which was soon done, though its first appea- 
 rance was very terrible. 
 
 The commodore appointed the Manilla vessel to be a post-ship in his 
 majesty's service, and gave the command of her to Mr, Saumarez, his 
 first lieutenant ; and having taken proper measures for securing the pri- 
 soners, whose numbers greatly exceeded those of his own people, he 
 steered back for the river of Canton. 
 
 On the 14th tho Centurion cast anchor short of Bocca Tigris, forming 
 the mouth of that river ; and here they were visited by the mandarin, 
 who commanded the forts at Bocca Tigris, to inquire what the ships were, 
 and whence they came 1 and to take an account of Mr. Anson's force, 
 which he was to send to the Governor of Canton. 
 
:l 
 
GEORGE ANSON. 183 
 
 While he remained in this city, a fire broke out in the suburbs. On 
 the first alarm, Mr. Anson went, with his officers and boat's crew, to 
 give his assistance ; and found that the fire had begun in a sailor's shed, 
 Rnd that by the slightness of the buildings, and the awkwardness of the 
 Chinese, it was getting head apace ; but observing that it was running 
 ilong a wooden cornice, which blazed fiercely, and would soon coramu- 
 aicate the flame to a considerable distance, he ordered his people to 
 oegin with tearing away that cornice ; but Mr. Anson was informed, that 
 «8 there was no mandarin there, who alone has power to command on 
 these occasions, the Chinese would make him answerable for whatever 
 was pulled down under his directions ; whereupon he ordered his people 
 to desist, and sent them to the English factory to assist in taking care 
 of the company's treasure and effects. The Chinese contented them- 
 selves with viewing the fire, and holding one of their idols near it, which 
 they seemed to expect should check its progress. At length a mandarin 
 came, attended by four or five hundred firemen, who made some feeble 
 efforts to pull down the neighbouring houses ; but by this time, the fire 
 being greatly extended, had got among the merchants' warehouses ; and 
 the firemen wanting both skill and spirit, were incapable of checking its 
 violence, so that it was feared the whole city would be destroyed. In 
 this confusion the viceroy went thither, and immediately sent to beg Mr. 
 Anson's assistance, who was told he might take what methods he thought 
 proper to extinguish the conflagration. 
 
 On this, the commodore went a second time, taking with him about 
 forty of his people, who, exerting themselves with the agility and boldness 
 peculiar to sailors, soon put an end to the fire ; and as the buildings were 
 most of them on one floor, and the materials slight, the men escaped 
 without any other injury than a few inconsiderable bruises. The 30th 
 of November being at length appointed for Mr. x\nson's visit to the 
 viceroy, he was attended from the outer gate of the city to the great 
 parade before the emperor's palace, where the viceroy resided, by a guard 
 of 200 soldiers ; and in fine parade he found a body of troops, to the 
 number of 10,000, drawn up under arms, and making a fine appearance, 
 being all new clothed on the occasion 
 
 The Centurion got under sail on the 15th of October, 1743, and on 
 the 3d of January came to an anchor at Prince's Island, in the straits of 
 Sunda, and continued there till the 8th, taking in wood and water, when 
 she weighed and stood for the Cape of Good Hope, where, on the 11th of 
 March, she came to an anchor in Table Bay. Mr. Anson continued here 
 till the 3d of April, 1744, when he put to sea, and, on the 19th of the 
 month, was in sight of the Island of St. Helena, but did not touch at it. 
 
 On the 13th of June they got sight of the Lizard, and on the evening 
 of the 15th, to their inexpressible joy, came safe to anchor at Spithead. 
 On his arrival Mr. Anson learned that, under cover of a thick fog, he had 
 run through a French fleet, which was at that time cruising in the chops 
 of the channel. 
 
 COMMODORE BYRON.— 1764-65-66. 
 
 His late majesty having formed a design of prosecuting discoveries in 
 the South Seas, was pleased, in the year 1764, to give orders for carrying 
 this design into execution ; in consequence of which, the Dolphin and 
 Tamar ships-of-war were fitted, manned, and victualled for this expedi- 
 
184 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tion. Mr. Byron was commander-in-chief, and Captain Mouat had the 
 honour of commanding under him. On the 3d of July the commodore 
 hoisted his broad pendant, and they sailed in prosecution of the voyage. 
 
 On the 13th of September they came to an anchor in the road of 
 Rio de Janeiro, on the coast of Brazil, when the commodore paid a visit 
 to the governor, who received him in state. Fifteen guns were fired in 
 honour of the English flag ; and the governor afterward returned the 
 commodore's visit on board the Dolphin. 
 
 They weighed anchor on the 16th of October, and on the 22d the 
 commodore informed the crew they were not bound, as they thought, 
 directly to the East Indies, but on a voyage to make discoveries ; and 
 that, on their behaving well, the lords of the admiralty had ordered them 
 double pay, and other emoluments. 
 
 On the i6th of November, after experiencing some bad weather, they 
 steered for Cape Blanco, shaping their course agreeable to the chart of 
 it laid down in Anson's Voyage. On the 20th saw Penguin Island and 
 as Port Desire was said to be a few leagues to the north-west, a boat was 
 sent out, which found it. On the 21st they entered the harbour, and 
 the commodore, in his boat, attended by two other boats, went to sound 
 it. He landed, and found the country all one continued down, having 
 neither shrubs nor trees. They had a sight of four beasts, near thirteen 
 hands high, and in shape like a deer, which they took to be guanicoes. 
 
 On the 5th of December the ships got under sail, and, during that and 
 the following day, had pleasant weather and a fine gale. They now 
 steered for Pepys' Isle, which is described as lying in 47 degrees south 
 latitude, but it could not be found. 
 
 On the 20th ran close in shore to Cape Virgin Mary, and having ob- 
 served asmoke on shore, and a number of guanicoes feeding in the valleys, 
 they came to anchor. The commodore observed a number of men on 
 horseback, riding to and fro, opposite the ship, and waving something 
 white, which he took to be an invitation to land ; and, as he was anxious 
 to know what people these were, he went in one boat with a party of 
 men well armed ; the first lieutenant, with a separate party, following in 
 another. When they came near the shore, the whole appeared to amount 
 to 500 persons, drawn up on a stony point of land that ran far into the 
 sea. Though the commodore did not observe they had any weapons, he 
 made signs to retreat a little, which they readily did, and kept shouting 
 very loud while the crew were landing. 
 
 Mr. Byron now advanced alone, but as he approached, the Indians 
 retreated ; he, therefore, made signs that one of them should come for- 
 ward, which was complied with. The person who advanced appeared 
 to be a chief, and was very near seven feet in height ; round one of his 
 eyes was a circle of black paint, and a white circle round the other ; the 
 rest of his face was painted in streaks of various colours. He had the 
 skin of a beast, with the hair inward, thrown over his shoulders. The 
 commodore and the Indian having coinphmented each other, in language 
 equally unintelligible to either, they walked together toward the main 
 body of Indians, few of whom were shorter than the height above-men- 
 tioned, and the women were large in proportion. 
 
 On the 21st of December they began sailing up the Strait of Ma- 
 gellan, with a view to take in a stock of wood and water. On the 26th 
 steered for Port Famine, and came to an anchor close to the shore the 
 next day, at noon In this place they found drift-wood enough to have 
 supplied a thousand vessels. The commodore went four miles up 
 
COMMODORE BYRON. 185 
 
 Sedger River, but could proceed no farther, the trees which had fallen 
 across the stream impeding the boat's way. Some of these were so 
 large, that four men joined hand in hand could not enclose them ; and, 
 among the rest, the pepper tree was found. These woods abound in 
 parrots and other beautiful birds. The quantity of fish that was daily 
 taken was equal to the supply of both the crews ; and the commodore 
 shot as many geese and ducks as furnished several tables besides his own. 
 
 Both ships having taken in sufficient wood and water by the 4th of 
 January, 1765, they sailed at four o'clock in the morning in quest of 
 Falkland's islands ; but the wind dying away, were obliged to come to 
 an anchor the day following. 
 
 On the 12th they saw land, which was taken for De Wert's islands, 
 and at the same time ether land to the south, which was judged to 
 be what is called New Islands in the charts. This land consists chiefly 
 of mountainous and barren rocks, on which were great numbers of birds. 
 On the 14th they saw a flat island, covered with tufts of grass as large 
 as bushes ; and on the following day the commodore sent a boat from 
 each ship, to examine an opening which had the appearance of a har- 
 bour ; which being discovered, they stood in for it in the afternoon, and 
 found it excellent beyond their most sanguine hopes. Soon after this 
 they entered another harbour, to which Mr. Byron gave the name of 
 Port Egmont, from the title of the nobleman at that time first lord of 
 the admiralty. This harbour is represented to be the finest in the world, 
 and capacious enough to contain the whole navy of England, in full se- 
 curity ; there is plenty of fresh water in every part of it ; and geese, 
 ducks, snipes, and other edible birds, abound in such numbers, that the 
 sailors were tired with eating them. The commodore was once unex- 
 pectedly attacked by a sea-lion, and extricated himself from the impending 
 danger with great difficulty ; they had many battles with this animal, the 
 killing of one of which was frequently an hour's work for six men ; one of 
 them almost tore to pieces the commodore's mastiflf dog, by a single bite. 
 The commodore thought this the same place which, in Cowley's Voyage, 
 is called Pepys' Island ; but he took possession of the harbour, and all the 
 adjacent islands, by the name of Falkland's islands, for George the 
 Third, King of Great Britain. 
 
 On Sunday, January the 27th, they left Port Egmont, and the same 
 day saw a remarkable head-land, which was named Cape Tamar ; soon 
 after which they passed a rock, which Mr. Byron called the Edistone, 
 and then sailed between that and a head-land, to which he gave the name 
 of Cape Dolphin. The distance from Cape Tamar to Cape Dolphin is 
 about eight leagues, and from its appearance was called Carlisle Sound, 
 though it is since known to be the northern entrance of the strait between 
 the two principal islands. Next day the commodore gave the name of 
 Berkley's Sound to a deep inlet between the islands. At eight in the 
 evening they proceeded to the westward; and the 6th of February stood 
 in for Port Desire, at the mouth of which they came to an anchor, and 
 had the pleasure of seeing the Florida, a store-ship, which they had 
 expected from England. 
 
 On the 19th they again sailed. On the 20th reached Port Famme, 
 when the Dolphin and Tamar having taken as much provision out of the 
 store-ship as they could find room for, the master received orders to sail 
 for England. Having narrowly escaped the dreadful eflTects of a storm 
 on the 3d of March, boats were repeatedly sent out till the 6th in search 
 of a proper place to anchor in ; and at length the Dolphin was moored 
 
 16* 
 
186 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 in a little bay opposite Cape Quod ; and the Tamar, which couM not 
 work up so far, about six miles to the eastward of it. This part of the 
 strait being only four miles over, its appearance is dreary and desolate 
 beyond imagination, owing to the prodigious mountains on each side, 
 which rise above the clouds, and are covered with perpetual snow. On 
 the 12th an officer was sent in a boat, in search of a harbour ; and in 
 two days he returned with an account that there were five bays between 
 the ship and Cape Upright, in any one of which they might anchor 
 securely. 
 
 On the IGth, perceiving they lost ground on every tack, they came to 
 an anchor ; but finding the ground to be rocky, they weighed again, and 
 every man on board was on deck the rest of the day and the whole night, 
 during which time the rain poured down on them in unremitting torrents. 
 On the 23d again set sail, and in a few hours had sight of the South 
 Sea, which rolled a prodigious swell on them. On the 25th two boats, 
 which had been sent in search of anchoring places, returned with an 
 account that they had found two, but neither of them very eligible. On 
 the 28Lh the Tamar narrowly escaped being dashed to pieces against the 
 rocks, by the parting of the cable to her best bower anchor. The Dol- 
 phin, therefore, stood again into the bay, and sent her proper assistance, 
 after which they both anchored for the night ; a night the most dreadful 
 they had yet known. The winds were so violent as perfectly to tear up 
 the sea, and carry it higher than the heads of the masts : a dreadful sea 
 rolled over them, and broke against the rocks, with a noise as loud as 
 thunder. Happily they did not part their cables, or they must have 
 been dashed in pieces against these rocks. 
 
 The ships came to an anchor on the Ith of April, in a bay which had 
 been discovered, proposing to take in wood and water. While they 
 remained here, several of the natives made a fire opposite the ship ; on 
 which signals were made for them to come on board ; but as they would 
 not, the commodore went on shore, and distributed some trifles, which 
 gave great pleasure ; he likewise divided some biscuit among them, and 
 was surprised to remark, that if a bit of it fell to the ground, not one 
 of them would stoop to take it up without his permission : some of the 
 sailors being. at this time cutting grass, for a few sheep which the com- 
 modore had on board, the Indians instantly ran to their assistance, and 
 tearing up the grass in large quantities, soon filled the boat. On his- 
 return, they followed in their canoe till they came near the ship, at which 
 they gazed with the most profound astonishment. Four were at length 
 prevailed on to go on board ; and the commodore, with a view to their 
 diversion, directed one of the midshipmen to play on the violin, while 
 some of the seamen danced ; the poor Indians were extravagantly de- 
 lighted ; and one of them, to testify his gratitude, took his canoe, and 
 fetching some red paint, rubbed it over the face of the musician ; nor could 
 the commodore, but with the utmost difficulty, escape the like compliment. 
 When they had been divsrted for some hours, it was hinted to them that 
 they should go on shore ; which they at length did, though with evident 
 reluctance. 
 
 They sailed from this bay on the 7th, and next day again encountered 
 very bad weather, as it rained and snowed, while the wind blew a hurri- 
 cane. On the 9th passed some dangerous rocks, which, in Narborough's 
 Voyage are called the Judges, and on which the surf beats with prodi- 
 gious violence. This day, contrary to expectation, a steady gale at south- 
 west carried them at the rate of nine miles an hour, so that by eight in 
 
COMMODORE BYRON. 187 
 
 the evening they were twenty leagues from the coast on which they 
 had encountered so many perils. On the 26th they sailed westward, 
 bearing away for the Island of Masafuero, which they were within seven 
 leagues of the same evening. The next day they bore away for the 
 north of the island, and then lay by for the boats, which had been sent 
 to sound the eastern side, but could not land for the violence of the surf. 
 The boats returning, brought a number of fine fish, which had been caught 
 with the hook and line : and the officer reporting that he had found a 
 bank where they might anchor, and opposite to which was plenty of 
 fresh water, they made sail for this bank, on which they anchored at 
 seven o'clock on Sunday morning. The island abounds in goats, many 
 of which were killed and sent on board, and deemed equal in flavour to 
 the finest venison. One of the goats had his right ear sHt, so as to make 
 it evident that some person had caught him, given him that mark of 
 distinction, and let him go again. Various sorts of excellent fish were 
 now so plenty, that they could catch sufficient to supply the whole crew 
 two days, in a few hours, with hook and line only. 
 
 They sailed on the 30th of April, steering variously till the 10th of May, 
 on which, and the day following, they saw several dolphins and bonettas 
 round the ship. For many days alter they saw great numbers of birds ; 
 and on the 7th of June discovered land, being then in 14 degrees 5 
 minutes south latitude, and 144 degrees 58 minutes west longitude. 
 The commodore steered for a small island, the appearance of which was 
 pleasing beyond expression, being surrounded by a beach of fine white 
 sand; and covered with lofty trees, which, extending their shade to a 
 considerable distance, and having no underwood, formed the most elegant 
 groves that the imagination can conceive. Several of the natives soon 
 appeared, having long spears in their hands, who made large fires, which 
 were answered by corresponding fires on an island to windward. A 
 boat was sent to look out for an anchoring place, but none was to be 
 found. At this time many of the best hands were confined to their ham- 
 mocks with the scurvy ; while those who were able to keep the deck, 
 looked and languished for those invigorating delicacies which were un- 
 happily beyond their reach. The shells of turtle were strewn along the 
 shore, and they beheld numbers of cocoa nuts, to the milk of which fruit 
 the scurvy seldom fails to yield. The inhabitants of this island kept 
 abreast of the ship, dancing and shouting : they sometimes shook theit 
 spears, and then falling backward, lay motionless, as if dead, which was 
 understood to be a threat of destruction to such as should presume to 
 land. They lilcewise fixed two spears in the sand, on the top of which 
 were fastened some things which waved in the air : before these they 
 kneeled, and appeared as if invoking the assistance of the Deity against 
 the supposed invaders. The commodore was tempted, from its appea- 
 rance, to sail round the island ; while he was doing which, he again sent 
 out boats to sound ; on which the natives made a most hideous outcry, 
 took up and balanced large stones in their hands, and pointed to iheir 
 spears. The sailors, on the contrary, made every possible sign of friend-, 
 ship, throwing bread and other things on shore ; which they would not 
 touch, but retired to the woods, dragging their canoes after them. 
 
 The boats having reported that no anchorage could be found, the com- 
 modore proceeded to the other island, and on the next morning brought- 
 to at three-quaiters of a mile from the shore. Sevcrel other islands were 
 now seen, covered with the cocoa nut tree. The natives again ran to 
 the beach, armed with clubs and spears, using threatening gestures. I'he 
 
188 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 commodore fired a cannon-shot over their heads, on which they retreated 
 to the woods. The boats having been again sent out, returned with an 
 account that no landing place could be found ; on which Mr. Byron 
 named this paradise in appearance the Islands of Disappointment. 
 Quitting these on the 8th of June, they discovered an island on the day 
 following, low, and covered with various kinds of trees, among which 
 was the cocoa nut, and surrounded with a rock of red coral. The in- 
 habitants on the coast having made large fires, as supposed to alarm the 
 more inland natives, they ran along the shore in multitudes, armed like 
 those of the Islands of Disappointment. The vessels brought-to at a 
 small inlet opening into a lake of salt water, which appeared more than 
 two leagues wide. At this place was a little town, under the shade of 
 a grove of cocoa nut trees. The ships advancing to the mouth of the 
 inlet, some hundreds of the natives, headed by a kind of officer, who 
 carried a pole, on which was fastened a piece of mat, ranged themselves 
 up to the waists in water, making a hideous noise, till they were joined 
 by a number of large canoes which came down the lake. At this time 
 two boats were out in search of soundings, and the crews of them ma- 
 king every possible sign of friendship, some of the canoes drew toward 
 them, but with a view to haul the boats on shore : several of the natives 
 leaping from the rocks, swam to the boats ; and one of them sprang into 
 the Tamar's boat, snatched up a seaman's jacket, and instantly dived 
 from the boat to the shore : another laid violent hands on a hat, but 
 lost his prize through his ignorance, as he pulled it downward instead of 
 lifting it from the head. 
 
 They now sailed westward, and soon discovered another island, distant 
 four leagues. The natives pursued them in two large double canoes, in 
 each of which were about thirty armed men. At this time the boats 
 were at a considerable way to leeward of the ships, and were chased by 
 the canoes ; on which, the commodore making a signal, the boats turned 
 toward the Indians, who instantly pulled down their sails, and rowed 
 away with great rapidity. 
 
 As no refreshments could be obtained, owing to the violence of the 
 surf, the commodore returned to his former station at the inlet, and 
 again sent the boats in search of an anchoring place. A number of the 
 Indians were on the spot where he had left them, and were loading some 
 large canoes, most probably to attack the boats ; on which a shot was 
 fired over their heads, and they instantly ran away and secreted them- 
 selves. The boats returned in the evening, with a few cocoa nuts ; and 
 in the morning were sent out again, with all the invalids who were able 
 to go in them. The commodore v;ent on shore this day, and saw many 
 Indian huts, which were covered with the branches of the cocoa nut 
 tree : they were mean buildhigs, but finely situated among groves of 
 lofty trees. The men went naked ; but some women were seen, who 
 wore a kind of cloth from the waist to the knee. The shore abounded 
 with coral, and the shells of large pearl oysters, and it is probable a valu- 
 able pearl fishery might be established here. There were uiany dogs in 
 the huts, who kept barking constantly till our adventurers went on board. 
 
 On the 12th of June sailed to another island, and as they coasted 
 along it, the natives, armed as those of the other islands, kept even with 
 the ship for some leagues. They fretpently plunged into the sea, or fell 
 on the sand, that the surf might break over them, to cool and refresh 
 themselves. The boats being near the shore, the crew made signs that 
 they were in want of water ; on which the natives pointed farther along 
 
COMMODORE BYRON. 169 
 
 the shore, where, when the boats arrived, Ihey saw a number of houses, 
 and whither they were followed by the Indians, many more of whom 
 joined them at this place. The boats having got close in shore, and the 
 ships lying at a small distance, a venerable old man, with a white beard, 
 advanced from the house to the beach, attended by a young fellow. 
 Having made a signal for the other Indians to retire, he came forward to 
 the edge of the water, pressing his beard to his breast with one hand 
 and holding a branch of a tree in the other. He now made a kind of 
 musical oration, during which the people in the boat threw him some 
 trifling presents, which he would neither take up, nor permit his atten- 
 dants to touch, till he had finished his harangue, when he walked into 
 the water, and throwing the branch to the boat's crew, he retired, and 
 picked up their presents. Most of the natives having complied with a 
 sign made for them to lay down their arms, one of the midshipmen 
 swam ashore ; on which they flocked round him, admiring his clothes ; 
 as his waistcoat pleased them most he gave it to them, which he had no 
 sooner done, than one of them untied his cravat and ran away with it. 
 He now thought it time to retreat to the boat, whither several of the 
 natives swam after him : some bringing each a cocoa nut, and others 
 fresh water in the nut shell. This island is situated in 14 degrees 41 
 minutes south latitude, and 149 degrees 1.5 minutes v/est longitude ; and 
 both the islands the commodore called King George's Islands. 
 
 The boats having returned on board, they sailed westward the same 
 day ; and the next afternoon descried another island, toward which they 
 immediately sailed, and found that it was well inhabited, and had a fine 
 appearance of verdure ; but that a violent surf broke all along the coast. 
 It lies in 15 degrees south, and 151 degrees 63 minutes west, and 
 received the name of the Prince of Wales's Island. June the 17th, 
 they concluded that land was near, from the multitudes of birds which 
 flocked about the ship ; but they saw none till the 21st, when it was dis- 
 covered at eight leagues distance, having the appearance of three islands, 
 with rocks between them. These islands abounded with inhabitants, 
 whose dweUings lined the coast ; and the beauty and fertiUty of the 
 soil seemed to excel that of any place they had seen : but the rocks and 
 breakers with which it was surrounded were an insuperable bar to any 
 attempt at landing. 
 
 On the 24th they discovered another island, which was named the 
 Duke of York's Island. A terrible sea breaks round the coast, but the 
 place itself had a pleasing appearance. The boats landed with some 
 difticulty, and brought off a large quantity of cocoa nuts, which were a 
 great relief to the sick. Thousands of sea-fowls were found sitting on 
 their nests in high trees, and were so tame as to be easily knocked down ; 
 and there were great numbers of land-crabs on the ground. This island 
 has a large lake in the middle, but no inhabitants. On the 29th sailed 
 northward, with a view to cross the equinoctial line, and then sail for the 
 Ladrone islands. On the 2d of July they discovered a low flat island, 
 abounding with the cocoa nut and other trees, and aflfording a most agreea- 
 ble prospect. A great number of the natives were seen on the beach, 
 many of whom, in about sixty canoes or proas, sailed, and formed a 
 circle round the ship ; which having surveyed for a considerable time, one 
 of the Indians jumped out of his boat, swam to the ship, ran up its side in 
 a moment, sat down on the deck, and began laughing most violently ; he 
 then ran about the ship, pilfering whatever he could lay hands on, which 
 I'Hw taken from hira as fast aa stolen. This man having as many antic 
 
190 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tricks as a monkey, was dressed in a jacket and trousers, and afforded 
 exquisite diversion. He devoured some biscuit with great eagerness, and 
 having played the buffoon some time, made prize of his new dress, by 
 jumping over the side of the ship, and swimming to his companions. 
 Several others now swam to the ship, and running by the side to the <Tun- 
 Toom ports, committed some petty theft, swimming off with their booty 
 with surprising expedi-tion. These Indians are of a bright copper, with 
 regular and cheerful features, and are tall and well made. Their hair, 
 which is long and black, is either tied in three knots, or in a large bunch 
 behind. Their ears are bored, and doubtless had worn heavy orna- 
 ments in them, as some were drawn down almost to their shoulders ; 
 their ornaments were shells strung together, and worn round the waist, 
 wrist, and neck ; but they were otherwise naked. One of them, who 
 seemed to be of some. rank, wore a string of human teeth round his waist. 
 Some carried a long spear, the sides of which, for the length of three 
 feet, were stuck with the teeth of the shark, which are as keen as a 
 razor. Some cocoa nuts being shown them, and signs made that more 
 were wanted, they endeavoured to steal those, instead of directing where 
 more might be found. 
 
 The officers named this place Byron's Island, in honour of the com- 
 modore. It lies in 1 degree 18 minutes south latitude, and 173 degrees 
 46 minutes east longitude. They sailed from hence on the 3d of July, 
 and on the 28th had sight of the Islands Saypan, Tinian, and Aiguigan, 
 which lie between two and three leagues from each other. At noon, on 
 the 31st, anchored at the south-west end of Tinian, in the situation 
 where the Centurion had anchored with Commodore Anson. The water 
 is so wonderfully clear at this place that, though 144 feet deep, they 
 could see the ground. 
 
 The commodore went on shore, where he saw many huts, which had 
 been left the preceding year by the Spaniards and Indians. Having 
 chosen a spot on which to erect tents for the sick, Mr. Byron and his 
 company, with prodigious difficulty, worked their way through the woods, 
 in search of those elegant meadows and lawns of which so enchanting a 
 picture is given in Anson's Voyage : but, to their unspeakable mortifica- 
 tion, they found the lawns covered with reeds, in which their legs were 
 entangled, and cut as with whipcord ; and these reeds were, in some 
 places, higher than their heads, and in none less than half that height. 
 From head to foot they were covered with flies, which got down their 
 throats as often as they attempted to speak. 
 
 Parties were sent out to kill cattle, which, after being absent three 
 days and nights, and killing a bullock, had seven or eight miles to drag it 
 through the woods and lawns, and when arrived, it was commonly fly- 
 blown, and stunk intolerably. They got poultry with ease ; but the heat 
 was so excessive, that it would turn green, and swarm with maggots, 
 in less than an hour after it was killed. They killed wild hogs that 
 weighed 300 pounds each, which afforded their chief supply of fresh meat. 
 A negro belonging to the Tamar contrived a method to ensnare 
 these animals, so that they sent many on board alive, and were thus 
 always certain of having fresh meat both in the ship and on shore. 
 
 The Island of Saypan is not only larger, but pleasanter than Tinian. 
 It is, in a great degree, covered with trees, and abounds with hogs and 
 guanicoes. It is conjectured that the Spaniards, at stated periods, carry on 
 a pearl fishery at this island, as there were evident signs of people ha- 
 ving been lately there, and large heaps of the oyster shells were seen. The 
 
SAMUEL WALLIS. 191 
 
 commodore remained at Tinian till the 30th of September, by which time 
 the sick being tolerable well recovered, he weighed anchor, and stood to 
 the northward. This island produces plenty of cotton and indigo, with 
 cocoa nuts, bread fruit, guavas, paupaus, sour oranges, and limes. On 
 the 5th of November they came to an anchor off the Island of Timoan, on 
 which Mr. Byron landed the day following. The inhabitants, who are 
 Malays, no sooner saw the boat approaching the shore, than many of 
 them came to the beach, each having a dagger by his side, a spear in one 
 hand, and along knife in the other. The boat's crew, however, made no 
 hesitation to land, and bartered a few handkerchiefs for a goat, a kid, and 
 a dozen of fowls. 
 
 Nothing worth notice happened till the 14th, when a sloop being seen 
 at anchor in the harbour of an island, named Pulo Toupoa, Mr. Byron, 
 having anchored in the same harbour, and observed that the vessel hoist- 
 ed Dutch colours, sent an officer on board, who was received with great 
 politeness, tea being immediately made for him and his attendants ; but 
 he could not make himself understood, the crew consisting entirely of 
 Malays. The commodore sailed the following day, and held his course 
 till the 19th, when he spoke with an English snow, bound from Bencoolen 
 to Malacca and Bengal, in the East India Company's service. At this 
 time their biscuit was filled with worms, and rotten, and their beef and 
 pork was stinking. The master of the snow being apprized of this cir- 
 cumstance, sent Mr. Byron two gallons of arrack, a turtle, twelve fowls, 
 and a sheep. The ships remained in this harbour till the 10th of Decem- 
 ber, when they sailed. During their run from hence to Prince's Island, 
 in the Strait of Sunda, they were so abundantly supplied with turtle, 
 by boats from the Java shore, that the common sailors subsisted wholly 
 on that fish. They staid at Prince's Island till the 19th, when they sailed 
 for the Cape of Good Hope. On the 10th of February saw a great 
 smoke arising from a sandy beach, which they supposed to have 
 been made by the Hottentots. On the 13th they came to an anchor, 
 and the next morning the governor sent his coach and six for the 
 commodore, and received him with great politeness, offering him the 
 accommodations of the co.mpany's house in the garden, and the use 
 of his coach. 
 
 They sailed on the 7th of March, and on the 35th crossed the equi- 
 noctial line. About this time an accident happening to the rudder of the 
 Tamar, and it being impossible to make a perfect repair of it at sea, the 
 captain was ordered to bear away for Antigua ; in consequence of which 
 they parted company on the Ist of April ; and the Dolphin, without 
 meeting with any other material occurrence, came to an anchor in the 
 Downs on ttie 9th of May, 1766, after having been rather above twenty- 
 two months in the circumnavigation of the globe. 
 
 CAPTAIN SAMUEL WALLIS.— 1766-68. 
 
 Samuel Wallis, Esq. , having been appointed to command his majesty's 
 ship the Dolphin, destined for a voyage round the world, received orders 
 to take under his command the Swallow sloop, and Prince Frederick 
 store-ship. These vessels sailed on the 22d of August. 1766, and, on 
 the 7th of September, in the evening, came to an anchor in the road of 
 Madeira. 
 
 Tbey sailed thence on the 12th, after having taken in sea-stores By 
 
192 OYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the 12th of November they were in 30 degrees of south latitude, when 
 they found the weather so cold as to have recourse to their thick jackets. 
 On the 16th of December, being very near Cape Virgin Mary, they saw 
 several men riding on the shore, who made signs for them to land. In 
 the morning the captain went on shore, with a boat's crew from each ship, 
 and having made signs for the Indians to sit down, gave them combs, 
 buttons, knives, scissors, beads, &c., and pleased the women greatly by 
 the distribution of some ribands. The tallest among these people was 
 six feet seven inches, several others were from one to two inches shorter ; 
 but the general height was from five feet ten to six feet. They were 
 muscular and well made, but their hands and feet very small in propor- 
 tion to the rest of their bodies. They rode on horses about fourteen 
 hands high, and had dogs of the Spanish kind ; both men and women rode 
 astride, and the men were furnished with wooden spurs : some of the men 
 had their arms painted, the faces of others were variously marked, and 
 others again had their left eye enclosed by a painted circle. Their arms 
 were two round stones, enclosed with leather, one of which was fastened 
 at each end of a string eight feet in length ; and one stone being held 
 in the hand, the other was swung round the head with great force for 
 some time, and then discharged at any mark they chose to strike. 
 
 These people, who are great talkers, were often heard to say Ca-pi-ta- 
 nc, on which they were successively addressed in Portuguese, Spanish, 
 Dutch, and French : but they had no knowledge of either of those lan- 
 guages. When they shook hands with any of the crew, they always 
 said chcvow ; and they were amazingly ready in learning English words, 
 and pronounced the sentence •' Englishmen, come on shore " with great 
 facility. 
 
 As they seemed desirous of going on board, the captain took eight into 
 the boats, on which they instantly began singing for joy ; but, when they 
 came into the ship, expressed no kind of surprise at the novelties they 
 beheld, till a looking-glass being observed, they acted many antic gestures 
 before it, occasionally walking to and from it, talking with earnestness and 
 laughing immoderately. They would drink nothing but water, but they 
 eagerly ate every article of the ship's provisions. They were highly 
 pleased with some turkeys and guinea-hens which were onboard, nor did 
 the hogs and sheep escape their attention. One of them making signs that 
 he should be glad of some clothes, the captain gave him a pair of shoes 
 and buckles, and presented the rest with a little bag each, in which he put 
 new sixpences and half-pence, with a riband passed through a hole in 
 them, to hang round their necks : the remaining contents of the bag 
 were, a looking-glass, a comb, some beads, a knife, a pair of scissors, 
 some twine, and a few slips of cloth ; being offered some tobacco, they 
 smoked a few minutes, but did not seem to like it. The marines being 
 exercised before them, they were terrified at the firing of the muskets, and 
 one of them falling down, shut his eyes, and lay without motion, as if to 
 intimate that he knew the destructive nature of those weapons. 
 
 This day, the 21st, they turned into the Strait of Magellan with the 
 flood-tide, and saw many people on horseback, hunting the guanicoes, 
 which ran up the country with prodigious swiftness. On the 26th an- 
 chored in Port Famine Bay, and the sick were sent on shore, where a 
 tent was erected for their reception, as was another for the accommodation 
 of the sail-makers aAd those who landed to get wood. On the 28th the 
 empty water-casks were landed ; and on this day great quantities of fish 
 were caught, among which were smelts. When they arrived here, many 
 
SAMUEL WALLIS. TOT 193 
 
 of the people were very bad with the scurvy ; but by the plentiful use of 
 vegetables, and bathing in the sea, they all recovered in a very short time. 
 They sailed on the 18th, and came to an anchor tiie next day, half a mile 
 from the shore, opposite a current of fresh water that falls rapidly from 
 the mountains. On the evening of the 28th saw a great smoke on the 
 southern shore, and another on Prince Rupert's Island ; and the next 
 morning some people being sent on shore for water, had no sooner land- 
 ed than several of the natives came off in three canoes ; and, having 
 advanced toward the sailors, made signs of friendship, vvhich being an- 
 swered to their wish, they shouted aloud, and the English shouted in 
 return. 
 
 The ships sailed on the 3d of February, and came to an anchor in 
 York Road on the same day. The next morning Captain Wallis, with 
 a party, went on shore near Bachelor's River. There is a cataract near 
 this river, the noise of which is tremendous, as it falls more than 40G 
 yards, partly over a very steep descent, and partly in a perpendicular line. 
 They sailed on the 14th, and came to anchor again the same day in York 
 Road, after having lost ground by the contrary winds. On the 1st of 
 March sailed again, and anchored on the same day in a bay which they 
 called Lion's Cove, from whence they sailed on Monday ; and on the five 
 following days encountered such terrible weather that they had no pros- 
 pect before them but that of immediate destruction. On the 16th both 
 ships were safely anchored in a place called Swallow Harbour, whence 
 they sailed the next morning ; and on the following day the Swallow, 
 being driven among breakers, made signals of distress ; but was happily 
 relieved by a breeze from the shore. 
 
 On the 10th of April the two ships sailed in company ; and on the 11th 
 lost sight of each other, and did not meet again during the whole voyage. 
 This day the Dolphin cleared the Strait of Magellan, in which she had 
 laboured with innumerable difficulties, and escaped most imminent dan- 
 gers, in a passage of almost four months, viz., from December the 17th, 
 1766, to the llth of April following. In the year 1581 the Spaniards 
 it seems built a town here, which they named Phillipville, and left in it 
 a colony of 400 persons. These were all starved to death except twenty- 
 four, all of whom but one proceeded in search of the River Plata, and 
 most probably perished, as no tidings were ever heard of them ; the 
 remaining man, whose name was Hernando, was taken on board by Sir 
 William Cavendish, in the year 1587, and brought to England ; and the 
 place was called Port Famine, from the melancholy fate of these unfor- 
 tunate men. Wood and water abound at this place ; geese, ducks, teal, 
 &c., are in great abundance, and there is no want of fish ; so that the 
 face of things must be greatly changed since the Spaniards were there. 
 
 On the Ist of June they saw several men-of-war birds, and the next 
 day observed some gannets ; and the weather being at this time very 
 various, they conceived hopes that they drew near the land. On the 4th 
 a turtle swam close by the ship ; and the next day a great variety of birds 
 were seen. The long wished-for relief was now fast approaching ; for 
 on Saturday, the 6th, the man at the mast-head cried, "Land in the 
 west-north-west," This proved to be a low island, distant five or six 
 leagues, and was soon seen from the deck, to the great joy of every one 
 on board. When they came within five miles, they discovered another 
 »o the west-north-west. As no anchorage was to be found, and the whole 
 Island was encompassed with rocks and breakers, the captain resolved to 
 
 17 
 
194 YOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 steer for the other island, giving the name of Whitsun Island to this, 
 because it was discovered on the eve of Whitsunday. 
 
 Having approached the second, about fifcy of the natives, armed with 
 pikes, and some having fire-brands in their hands, were observed running 
 on the coast. Two boats were sent out, manned and armed, and the 
 lieutenant was instructed to steer for that part of the shore where the 
 people had been seen, to avoid offending them, and to try to procure 
 water and fruit, in exchange for such commodities as he took. When= 
 the boat came near the shore, the natives put themselves in a position a» 
 if they would defend it with their pikes ; but the crew making signs of 
 friendship, and exposing their trinkets, some of the Indians walked into the 
 water ; to whom it was hinted, that some coccki nuts and water would be 
 acceptable ; which was no sooner done than they fetched a small quantity 
 of each, which they rentured to bring to the boats, and received some 
 nails and other trifles in exchange. While they were dealing, one of 
 them stole a siUc handkerchief with its contents, but the thief could not 
 be discovered. The lieutenant was again sent on shore to take posses- 
 sion of the island in the king's name, and to call it Queen Charlotte's 
 Island. The boats returned loaded with cocoa nuts and scurvy-grass, 
 after having found two wells of excellent water. Provisions for a 
 week were now allotted for an officer and twenty men, who were "left 
 on shore to fill water ; the sick were landed for the benefit of the air ; 
 and a rmmber of hands were appointed to climb the cocoa trees, and gather 
 the nuts. On an adjoining island they found the people wlio had fled 
 from Queen Charlotte's Island, with several others, in the whole near 100. 
 It lies in IS degrees 20 minutes south latitude, and 138 degrees 30 minutes 
 west longitude, and received the name of Egmont Island. 
 
 On the llth they observed about sixteen persons on an island, which 
 was called Gloucester Island ; but, being surrounded with rocks anfl 
 breakers, they did not attempt to land. This day they likewise discovered 
 another, which was called Cumberland Island ; and on the day following 
 a third, which received the name of Prince Wilham Henry's Island. 
 
 On the 17th again discovered land, and at ten at night saw a light, 
 which convinced them it was inhabited ; and remarked, that there was 
 plenty of cocoa trees, a certain indication of no want of water. The day 
 following an officer was sent to the shore, with instructions to exchange 
 some toys for such things as the island produced. He saw a great num- 
 ber of the people, but could find noplace in which the ship might anchor. 
 From the number of people seen, and their having some large double 
 canoes on the shore, it was thought there were larger islands at no great 
 distance : the captain, therefore, having named this place Osnaburgh 
 Island, made sail, and having soon discovered high land, carae to an 
 anchor, because the weather was foggy. 
 
 Early the next morning they saw land, distant four or five leagues ; hut, 
 after having sailed toward it some time, thought proper again to anchor, 
 on account of the thickness of the fog ; but it was no sooner cleared 
 away than they found the ship encompassed by hundreds of canoes, in 
 which were many hundreds of people. Some baubles were shown them, 
 and signs made to come on board, on which they rowed the canoes toward 
 each other, and a general consultation took place ; at the conclusion of 
 which they all surrounded the ship with an appearance of friendship, anJ 
 one of them delivered an oration, at the conclusion of which he threw into 
 the sea the branch of a plantain tree, which he held in his hand. Thi« 
 being done, a young Indian, of more apparent courage than the rest, ven- 
 
SAMUEL WALLIS. 195 
 
 tnred on board the ship. The captain would have given him some bau- 
 bles, but he refused the acceptance of them till those in the canoes came 
 alongside, and, having held a consultation, threw on board several branches 
 of the plantain tree. 
 
 They sailed along the shore, while the canoes made toward the land. 
 In the afternoon the ship brought to, and the boats being sent to sound a 
 bav that promised good anchorage, the canoes flocked round them. Next 
 morning they were off a peak of land, which was almost covered with the 
 lalives and their houses. On the 21st the ship came to an anchor, and 
 '•everal canoes came alongside, bringing a large quantity of fruit, with 
 "owls and hogs, for which they received nails and toys in exchange. 
 The boats, having been sent to sound along the coast, were followed by 
 large double canoes, three of which ran at the cutter, staved in her quarter, 
 and otherwise damaged her ; the Indians, at the same time, armed with 
 clubs, endeavouring to board her. The crew now fired ; and wounding 
 one man dangerously, and killing another, they both fell into the sea, 
 whither their companions dived after them, and got them into the canoe. 
 They now tried if they could stand or sit ; but as the one was quite dead, 
 they laid him at the bottoin of the canoe, and the wounded man was sup- 
 ported in a sitting posture. 
 
 The ship made sail the day following, with intention to anchor oflf the 
 watering place ; but the man at the mast-head discovering a hay a few 
 miles to leeward, they immediately stood for it ; when the ship had 
 almost reached the boats she suddenly struck, and her head remained 
 immoveal)ly fixed on a coral rock near an hour, when she was happily 
 relieved by a breeze from the shore. During the whole time of being in 
 danger, she was encompassed by hundreds of Indians in their canoes ; 
 but not one attempted to board her. The ship was now piloted round a 
 reef into a harbour, where she moored. 
 
 On the 34th she sailed farther up the harbour, followed by many 
 canoes, bringing provisions, which were exchanged for nails, knives, &c. 
 In the evening a number of large canoes advanced, laden with stones, 
 on which the captain ordered the strictest watch to be kept. At length 
 souie canoes came off, with a number' of woman on board, who, being 
 brought almost under the ship, began to practice many arts of indelicacy. 
 During this exhibition, the large canoes came close round the ship ; some 
 of the Indians playing on a kind of flute, others singing, and the rest 
 blowing a sort of shells. Soon after a large canoe advanced, in v/hich 
 was an awning, on the top of which sat one of the natives, holding some 
 yellow and red feathers in his hand. The captain having consented to 
 his coming alongside, he delivered the feathers ; and while a present 
 was preparing, he put back from the ship, and threw the branch of a 
 cocoa tree in the air. This appeared the signal for an onset ; for there 
 was an instant shout from all the canoes, which, approaching the ship, 
 threw volleys of stones into every part of her. On this two guns, loaded 
 with small shot, were fired, and the people on guard discharged their 
 muskets. The nutr.ber of Indians now round the ship was full two 
 thousand ; and though tiiey were at first disconcerted, soon recovered 
 their spirits and renewed the attack. Thousands were observed on 
 shore, embarking as fast as the canoes could bring them off : orders were, 
 therefore, given for filing the cannon, some of which were brought to 
 bear upon tiie shore. This put a stop to all hostilities on the part of the 
 natives for a short time, but the scattered canoes soon got together again, 
 and, having hoisted white streamers, advanced, and threw stones of two 
 
196 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 pounds weight from slings, by which a number of the seamen were 
 wounded At this time several canoes approached the bow of the ship, 
 from whence no shot had been yet discharged. In one of these was an 
 Indian, who appeared to have an authority over the rest : a gun was there- 
 fore levelled at his canoe, the shot of which spHt it in two pieces, which 
 put an end to the contest ; the canoes rowed off with the utmost speed, 
 and the people on shore ran and concealed themselves behind the hills. 
 
 Next day a lieutenant was despatched with all the boats manned and 
 armed, and a number of marines, wiih orders to land under cover of the 
 ship and boats ; which being effected, he turned a piece of turf, and 
 having hoisted a pendant on a staff, took possession of the place, for his 
 sovereign, by the n \me of King George the Third's Island. At this time 
 the lieutenant observed two old men on the opposite side of the river, 
 wlio seemed much terrified, and assumed a posture of supplication. 
 Signs were made for them to cross the river, which one of them havinu- 
 done, he crawled on his hands and knees toward the lieutenant ; who, 
 showing him some stones that had been throw at the ship, hinted that 
 the Indians should receive no harm if they were not the aggressors. 
 
 Next day, while a party was engaged in filling the water casks, the 
 old man who had been seen the day before crossed the river, and brought 
 with him some fowls and fruit. The captain, who was indisposed on 
 board the ship, employed himself in remarking what was going forward 
 on shore : and, by the help of glasses, saw many of the Indians creep- 
 ing behind the bushes toward the watering place, while incredible num- 
 bers were coming through the woods, and a large party descending a hill, 
 all advancing to the same spot ; and two divisions of canoes were making 
 round the opposite points of the bay. The lieutenant got his party on 
 board the boats, but not before he had sent the old Indian to prevail on 
 the others to keep at a proper distance, as he wanted only water — but 
 this had no effect ; and, as soon as the crews were in the boats, the 
 natives possessed themselves of the casks as lawful prize. Those at 
 some distance from the watering place pushed forward with all speed, 
 keeping pace with the. canoes, which were rowed at an extraordinary 
 rate ; while a great number of women and children were seated on a 
 hill, from whence they could command a view of all that passed. 
 
 When the canoes came near that part of the bay where the ship rode, 
 they took in many people from the shore, who were laden with bags 
 filled with stones. All the canoes now approached the ship, on which 
 the captain gave orders to fire on the first cluster that should assem- 
 ble ; this had such an effect, that they all rowed off with the utmost 
 speed. They then fired into several parts of the wood, on which the 
 Indians all fled to the hill where the women and children were, so that 
 several thousands were now on that spot The captain being resolved 
 to make this action decisive, fired toward the hill ; and two balls falling 
 near a spot where many of these people had stationed themselves, they 
 were all terrified beyond description, and dis:^ppeared in an instant. 
 
 On the 27th, while a party was getting water, the old man before • 
 mentioned appeared on the opposite side of the river ; and having 
 harangued them some time, he came over ; when the officer, pointing 
 to the bags and stones which had been brought down, tried to convince 
 him that his countrymen had injured the English, who had acted only on 
 the defensive. He departed with signs of being content, and in a few 
 hours the natives began a traffic, which proved highly advantageous to 
 the ship's company 
 
SAMUEL WALLIS. 197 
 
 The old Indian, who had visited the interior parts of the island in 
 quest of provisions, returned on the 5th, and brought with him a roasted 
 hog as a present for the captain, who, in return, enriched him by pulling 
 him in possession of a looking-glass, an iron pot, &c. Three days after 
 this, the gunner conducted to the ship a lady of a portly figure and agree- 
 able face, whose age seemed to be upward of forty. She had but lately 
 arrived in that part of the island ; and the gunner, observing that she 
 seemed to have great authority, presented her with some toys, on which 
 she invited him to her house, and gave him some fine hogs. She was 
 afterward taken on board at her own desire, where her whole behaviour 
 indicated the woman of superior rank. The captain presented her with 
 a looking-glass and some toys, and gave her a handsome blue mantle, 
 which he lied round her with ribands. 
 
 Having intimated that she should be glad to see the captain on 
 shore, he signified his intention of visiting her on the following day. 
 Accordinglyron Sunday, the 12lh, he went on shore, where he was met 
 by his fair friend, who was attended by a numerous retinue, some of 
 whom she directed to carry the captain, and others who had been ill, over 
 the river, and thence to her habitation : the procession was closed by a 
 guard of marines and seamen. As they advanced, great numbers of 
 Indians crowded to see them ; but, on a slight motion of her hand, made 
 ample room for the procession to pass. Many persons of both sexes 
 advanced to meet her, whom she caused to kiss the captain's hand, while 
 she signified that ihey were related to her. Her house was above three 
 hundred and twenty feet in length, and about forty in breadth. The roof, 
 which was covered with the leaves of the palm tree, was supported by a 
 row of pillars on each side, and another in the middle. The highest part 
 of the thatch on the inside was about thirty feet from the ground, and the 
 space between the sides of the building and the edge of the roof being 
 twelve feet, was left entirely open. 
 
 The captain, lieutenant, and purser, who had been ill, being seated, 
 the lady helped four of her female attendants to pull off their coats, shoes, 
 and stockings ; which being awkwardly performed, the girls smoothed 
 down the skin, and rubbed it lightly with their hands for more than half 
 an hour ; and the gentlemen received great benefit from the operation. 
 The surgeon, being heated with walking, having pulled off his wig, one 
 of the Indians screamed out ; the eyes of the whole company were 
 instantly fixed on the miraculous sight, remaining some time in the most 
 profound astonishment. When they had recovered from their surprise, 
 the lady ordered several bales of cloth, the produce of the island, to be 
 brought out, in which she dressed the captain and all his attendants. 
 Orders had been given, that the captain should be carried as before ; but 
 as he chose to walk, she took hold of his arm, and when they came near 
 any wet or dirty places, she lifted him over, with as much ease as a man 
 would a child. She attended them to the shore, when she too^ her 
 leave, having presented the captain with a fine sow, big with young,. 
 
 On the 15th a large party, in all the boats, rowed round part of' the 
 island, in order to take a view of it, and purchase provisions. They 
 returned with a number of hogs and fowk, and some plantains and cocoa 
 nuts. The island was found to be everywhere very pleasant, and to 
 abound with various necessaries of life. On the 17th Captain Wallis 
 received another visit from the lady, whom he called his queen. She 
 repeated her visit on the following day, and gave the captain two hogs : 
 and the master being sent to attend her home, she clothed him in the 
 
 17* 
 
198 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 dress of the country, as she had done the captain and his retinue. On 
 the 21st she repeated the visit, and presented him with some hogs. On 
 her departure she invited the captain to her house, who, taking some 
 officers with him, attended her home. On their arrival, she tied round 
 thfiir hats some wreaths of plaited hair, and distinguished the captain's 
 by the additional ornament of a tuft of feathers of different colours. 
 When they returned, she went with them to the water-side, and ordered 
 some presents into the boat. On the 24th the captain presented his 
 friend, the old Indian, with cloth and other matters, and sent a variety 
 of things to the queen, among which were a cat with kitten, turkeys, 
 geese, hens, and various kinds of garden seeds ; which compUment she 
 returned by a present of fruit and hogs. While they remained here, 
 they sowed peas and garden seeds, and staid long enough to see them 
 come up, and likely to thrive. 
 
 The captain, having sent a party on shore on the 25th to examine the 
 country minutely, caused a tent to be erected to observe an eclipse of the 
 sun, and when it was ended, took his telescope to the queen's house to 
 show her the use of it ; and her surprise is not to be expressed, on her 
 beholding several object^ which she was very familiar with, but which 
 were too distant to be seen by the naked eye. On the conclusion of this 
 mental feast, the captain invited the queen and her attendants on board 
 the ship, judging that no insult would be offered to the party he had sent 
 out, while the principal people were in his power. The queen's atten- 
 dants ate heartily of an elegant dinner, and drank water only ; but the 
 queen would neither eat nor drink. When the party returned from their 
 excursion, the captain gave orders for landing the queen and her train. 
 She made signs to be informed if he held his resolution as to the time of 
 his departure ; and being answered in the affirmative, her tears witnessed 
 the agitation of her mind. 
 
 On the 26th the queen visited the captain, with her usual presents. 
 In the afternoon she came again, and solicited him to remain ten days lon- 
 ger : but being informed that he should certainly sail on the following day, 
 she burst into tears, and demanding when he would come again, was told 
 in fifty days. SJie remained on board till evening, when, being informed 
 that the boat waited for her, she wept with more violence than she had 
 yet done. At length this affectionate creature went over the ship's side, 
 as did the old Indian who had been so serviceable to the crew. This 
 man had signified, that his son should sail with the captain ; but when the 
 time of departure came, the youth was not to be found ; and it was 
 thought that the parental affection had got the better of the promise. 
 
 Early the next morning two boats w6re sent to fill a few casks of water ; 
 but the officer, alarmed at finding the shore crowded with people, was 
 about to return. This brought the queen forward, who commanded the 
 Indians to retire to the opposite side of the river, and then made signs 
 for the boats to land. While the water was filling, she ordered some 
 presents into the boat, and entreated to go once more to the ship ; bu«- 
 the officer having it in charge not to bring off a single native, she order 
 ed her double canoe out, and was followed by many others. When she 
 had been on board, weeping bitterly, for an hour, advantage was taken of 
 a breeze, and the ship got under sail. She now tenderly embraced the 
 captain and officers, and left the ship ; but the wind falling, the canoes 
 all put back, and once more reached the ship, to which the queen's being 
 made fast, she advanced to the bow of the canoe, and v;ept incessantly. 
 The captain presented her with several articles of use and ornament, which 
 
SAMUEL WALLIS, 199 
 
 she received in silent sorrow. After some time a breeze springing up, 
 the queen and her attendants took their final leave, with many tears, 
 which drew: corresponding tears from the eyes of our countrymen. 
 
 The place where the ship had lain was called Port Royal Harbour, and is 
 situated in 17 degrees 30 minutes south latitude, and 150 degrees west 
 longitude. 
 
 The men of Otaheite are from five feet seven to five feet ten inches high, 
 well-proportioned, alert, and of good countenances. The women from five 
 feet to five and a half, handsome in general, but some of them as beautilui 
 as can be imagined. The complexion of those men who are much on the 
 water is rather red ; but the natural colour of them all is the tawny. 
 They are remarkably distinguished from all the other natives of Asia, 
 Africa, and America, by the colours of their hair ; for that of the former 
 is universally black, while the people of Otaheite have the various colours 
 of black, brown, red, and flaxen ; most of the children having the latter ; 
 when left loose, it has a strong natural curl, but it is usually worn tied 
 in two bunchss, one on each side the head, or in a single bunch in the 
 middle. They anoint the head with the oil of the cocoa nut, mixed with 
 a root of a fragrant smell. 
 
 An Indian who attended the queen appearing to be fond of imitating 
 the English, was presented with a suit of the heuienant's clothes, which 
 became him extremely well. As it was shoal water at the landing place, 
 the English officers were carried on shore ; and this man, unwiUing to 
 be out of the fashion, was carried in the same manner by the Indians. 
 In his attempt to use a knife and fork at first, his hand always went 
 to his mouth, while the food remained stuck on the end of the fork. 
 
 Besides the articles already mentioned, tliese people eat the flesh of 
 dogs. Rats abound on the island, but are not eaten. The river produces 
 parrot-fish, groopers, cray-fish, and mullet, and conchs and muscles are 
 found on the rocks ; the inhabitants use nets, and hooks and lines. 
 
 There is something singular in their way of dressing their food ; having 
 produced a fire by rubbing two pieces of dry wood together, they dig a pit, 
 which being paved with stones, they make a fire in it. The stones being 
 properly heated, they rake away the ashes, and covering the stones with 
 green leaves of the cocoa nut tree, they put their meat in plantain leaves, and 
 place it in the pit, covering it over with the hot ashes, on which they lay 
 bread fruit and yams enclosed in plantain leaves ; these again they cover 
 with the embers intermixed with the hot stones ; to this succeeds a layer 
 of cocoa nut leaves, and upon the whole is a covering oT earth. In this 
 manner a small hog is dressed whole, but a large one is cut in two; and 
 Captain Wallis asserts, that this method of cookery exceeds every other he 
 has known, the meat being extremely tender and full of gravy. Their 
 only sauces are salt water and fruit, and their knives are made of shells. 
 
 The Dolphin sailed from Otaheite on the 27th of July, 1757, and pass- 
 ed the Duke of York's Island, the coast of which abounds with plantain 
 trees, cocoa nut, bread fruit, and apple trees. On the 28th they discover- 
 ed land, which was called Sir Charles Saunder's Island. On the 30th 
 again made land, which received the name of Lord Howe's Island, on 
 which smoke was seen, but no inhabitants. Their next discovery was of 
 some dangerous shoals, to which Captam Wallis gave the name of the 
 Scilly islands. 
 
 They now steered westward till the 13th of August, when they saw- 
 two small islands, one of which was named Kcppel's Isle, and the other 
 Boscawen's Island ; on the latter of which were several inhabitants. 
 
aOO VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 On the I6th they again discovered land, to which the officers gave the 
 name of Wallis's Island, The coast of this island is A'ery rocky, and the 
 trees grow almost to the edge of the water. The inhabitants wore no 
 covering but a mat round the waist : each man had a very large club, two 
 of which were purchased by the boat's crew. 
 
 On the 18th of September they discovered the Island of Saypan, and 
 soon afterward that of Trnian, off which they anchored on the day follow- 
 mg. Tents v»eTe erected for the sick, who were sent on shore with all 
 expedition. The smith's forge and carpenter's chest were also landed ; 
 and the captain and first lieutenant, who both continued ill, went on shore 
 with a party of men to hunt for cattle. By the 15th of October the fruit 
 and water were carried on board, and all the sick being recovered, prepara- 
 tions were made for sailing ; and on the next day they left the bay, and 
 sailed to the west. 
 
 On the 3d of November they discovered three islands, which were 
 named Sandy Isle, Small Key, and Long Island ; and on the day follow- 
 ing they saw another, to which Captain Wallis gave the name of New 
 Island ; which islands are in 10 degrees 20 minutes north latitude, and 237 
 degrees 30 minutes west longitude. They now altered their course, and oft 
 the 13th saw the Islands of Timoun, Aros, and Pesang. On the 16th they 
 crossed the equinoctial line, and came again into south latitude. The next 
 day they saw the Islands of Pulo Tote and Pulo Weste, soon after which 
 they had sight of the seven islands. On the 22d saw the coast of Sumatra, 
 and came to an anchor in the road of Batavia on the 30th of November, 
 1767. From this he sailed on the 8th of December, without losing a 
 single man, and having only two on the sick list. 
 
 On the 24th of January they encountered a dreadful storm, which tore 
 the sails to pieces, broke a rudder-chain, and carried several of the booms 
 overboard ; yet, during this storm, they observed a number of birds and 
 butterflies. On the 30th they saw land, and can»e to an anchor in Tabl« 
 Bay, at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 4th of February. 
 
 On the 25th all hands were ordered on board, and on the 17lh of March 
 they anchored in the Bay of St. Helena, and sent persons on shore to get 
 water, and others to gather purslain, of which there is great plenty. On 
 the 28th they crossed the equinoctial line, getting once more into north 
 latitude, and on the 24th of next month saw the Cape of Pico. No 
 material incident happened from this time to the end of the voyage, which 
 was happily conjpleted by the Dolphin coming to an anchor in the Downs 
 on the 20th of May, 1768. 
 
 CAPTAIN CARTERET.— 1766-69. 
 
 Mr. Carteret having already circumnavigated the globe with Commo 
 dore Byron, was appointed to the command of the Swallow sloop soon 
 after his return to England ; and on the 22dof August, 1766, sailed from 
 Plymouth in company with bis majesty's ship the Dolphin, and the Prince 
 Frederic store-ship. 
 
 It will be needless to recite any particulars which happened till the 
 11th of April, when the Swallow parted company with the Dolphin and 
 Prince Frederic, as already related in the account of the preceding voyage. 
 At" nine o'clock on this day, the Swallow had totally lost sight of the 
 Dolphin, which Captain Carteret judged to be then clear of the mouth of 
 the straits ; and as the Swallow was then under land, where she had not 
 
CAPTAIN CARTERET. 201 
 
 the advantage of any considerable breeze, ihey entertained iitj hope of 
 seeing their consort during the remainder of the voyage. 
 
 At this time all the cloth, linen, cutlery-wares, and trinkets, were on 
 board the Dolphin ; a circumstance which aggravated Captain Carteret's 
 distress, as he had not anything proper to barter with the Indians. A 
 few hours after the ships parted company, the Swallow encountered a 
 violent storm, during which there was so thick a fog that they could not 
 see mountainous land which they were within half a mile of. They sailed 
 from this place early in the morning of the 15th of April, and soon after- 
 ward, by the sudden shifting of the wind, encountered so violent a storm 
 that they were in danger of sinking. They at length got into the open 
 sea, after a very providential deliverance, for, had the wind again shifted, 
 the ship must have been unavoidably lost. 
 
 From the 27th of this month till the 1st of May they had continual 
 storms, and on this day a prodigious sea laid the whole ship under water 
 for some time, while the wind blew a hurricane, and the rain poured down 
 in torrents. On the 9th of May they were in sight of the Island of Masa- 
 fuero ; and on the 10th saw Juan Fernandez, and sailed round to Cum- 
 berland Bay, on the cast side of it. 
 
 The Spaniards having fortified this island, (a circumstance till then 
 unknown to Captain Carteret,) a number of men were seen on the shore, 
 and two large boats lying on the beach. A house and four pieces of can- 
 non were observed near the sea-side, and on the brow of a hill, at a small 
 distance, was a fort with Spanish colours flying. Many cattle were seen 
 on the hills, and above twenty houses on different parts of the island. 
 
 On the eastern side of the west bay they saw a kind of guard-house, 
 with two pieces of cannon, on carriage.s, near it They now returned 
 toward Cumberland Bay, when a boat put after them ; but night coming 
 on, they lost sight of her. Thus disappointed of refreshments so much 
 wanted, they sailed for Masafuero, and anchored on the 12lh, but were 
 unable to land, as the beach was full of rocks, and the surf ran so vio- 
 lently that the best swimmers could not get through the breakers ; the 
 next morning, however, the boats filled some water casks. 
 
 On the 15ih anchored on the east side of the island ; but were driven 
 from iheir moorings, and kept out at sea all night. In the morning the 
 cutter was sent for water, and the ship got near the shore, where she 
 soon received several casks, and sent the boat for more ; the long boat 
 was likewise despatched on this service. 
 
 On the 17th the cutter was again sent for water; and, when she re- 
 turned, the lieutenant reported, that the violent rains which had fallen iu 
 the night had brought down such a deluge of water, that the people on 
 shore narrowly escaped drowning, after losing several of the caska. 
 This day such a quantity of fish was taken by the boat, with hooks and 
 lines only, as was equal to the consumption of the whole crew. On the 
 20th the ship, which had been some time standing off and on near the 
 shore, came again to an anchor, when the long boat being sent out, pro- 
 cured, in a short time, an ample supply of fish. During the night, and 
 all the following day, they had extreme bad weather ; but, as soon as it 
 became moderately calm, three seamen were sent on shore to kill seals, 
 and make oil of their fat, for the use of the lamps. 
 
 The Island of Masafuero is of a triangular form, about twenty-two 
 miles in circumference, and, at a distance, has the appearance of a singfe 
 rock ; there is good anchorage on many parts of the coast, and the island 
 abounds with goats. Wood and water are plentiful, but difficult to be 
 
202 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 procured, on account of the violence of the surf. Cod, hallibut, coal- 
 fish, and cray-fish, are to be caught in great numbers ; and seal are so 
 numerous, that the killing of thousands could make no apparent difference 
 in their numbers. The mountain cabbage grows on the island, which 
 likewise abounds in birds, among which are hawks of a very large size. 
 
 They now sailed to the north, with the hope of getting the south-east 
 trade wind, till the 17th of June, which is the depth of winter, v.-hen the 
 weather was dark and cold, with sleet, rain, thunder, and lightning. 
 
 On the 2d of July they discovered an island, which was well clothed 
 with trees, and down the side of which ran a stream of fresh water. It 
 appeared to be about five miles in circumference, and was called Pitcairn's * 
 Island, from the name of a young gentleman who first saw it. 
 
 On the llth Captain Carteret gave the name of the Bishop of dsna- 
 burgh's Island to a low piece of land discovered this day, which was well 
 clothed with verdure. On the 12th they saw two other small islands, 
 on one of which the boat's crew landed, and found birds so tame as to be 
 taken without the least difficulty. The other island was about fifteen 
 miles distant : but neither afforded either water or vegetables. They 
 were called the Duke of Gloucester's Islands ; and Captain Carteret sup- 
 poses them to be the same land which was seen by Quiros, 
 
 On the lOlh of August the ship sprung a leak, in a part which they 
 could not come at to repair, so that their situation was truly alarming ; 
 but two days afterward discovered land, which gave fresh spirits to the 
 almost desponding crew. The captain observed seven islands, and sailed 
 toward two of them, which lay very near together : in the evening came 
 to an anchor near the largest, on which were seen two of the natives, 
 who were negroes, with woolly heads, and wore no kind of clothing. 
 On the day following the cutter, with the master and a party of seamen, 
 was sent to the westward, to search for a place to procure wood and 
 water, to seek for refreshments for the sick, and to discover a place where 
 the ship might be repaired. He received orders to be strictly on his 
 guard against any attack from the natives, and took with him a few 
 trinkets that happened to be on board, to procure their good will. In a 
 short time after he returned on board, having three arrows sticking in his 
 body. The account he gave of his expedition was, in substance^ as fol- 
 lows : Being arrived at a place about fifteen miles from the ship, he 
 saw some houses, but only a very few of the natives, and landed with 
 four of the crew, well armed ; the first fears of the Indians being dispelled, 
 they accepted his presents with pleasure, and, in return, gave him some 
 fish, yams, and cocoa nuts. He then went to the houses ; but soon ob- 
 serving a number of the natives among the trees, and several canoes 
 coming round a point, he hastened toward the boat ; but, before he could 
 embark, a general attack with bows and arrows was made, as well on 
 those in the boat as on those on shore. Thus situated, the crew fired 
 repeatedly, killing and wounding many of the Indians ; still, however, the 
 latter continued the fight, some of them running into the water as high 
 as the breast ; and when the boat got farther off, she was pursued by the^ 
 canoes, which did not retreat till one of them was sunk, and many of the 
 people in the others were killed. 
 
 The captain now determined to attempt the reparation of the ship in 
 her present situation, and succeeded so far that the leak was greatly 
 reduced. On the 15th a party was sent on shore to get water, a shot 
 having been previously fired into the woods, to disperse any of ther 
 natives that might be lurking in them. The lieutenant was likewise 
 
CAPtAlI"! CARTERETw »1^03 
 
 despatched in the cutter to keep the coast clear for the waterers, by 
 repeated firings into the woods ; yet, in spite of these precautions, a 
 flight of arrows was soon discharged among them, by which one of the 
 seamen was dangerously wounded. 
 
 As the master was now dying of his wounds, as the captain and lieu- 
 tenant were so ill that their recovery was doubtful, and as their was no 
 chance of procuring proper refreshments at thia place, all intentions 
 of pursuing the voyage farther to the southward were laid, aside ; the 
 captain, therefore, having named the place Egmont Island, and the 
 harbour where the ship had lain Swallow Bay, sailed from it on the 17th 
 of August, 1767. 
 
 On the same day an island was discovered, which received the name 
 of Portland's Island, four miles from which they saw a harbour, which 
 was called Byron's Harbour ; three leagues from it, they had sight of 
 the bay where the Indians had attacked the crew of the cutter. This 
 was called Bloody Bay ; on its borders were a number of houses well 
 constructed, and one much longer than the others, which had the appea- 
 rance of a kind of hall for the transaction of public business. In this 
 place, which was well built, and covered with a kind of thatch, the 
 master and his party had been received by the natives, before the wanton 
 cutting down of the cocoa nut tree. A large number of arrows were 
 hung in bundles round the room, the floor and sides of which were 
 covered with matting. In this neighbourhood were many gardens, sur- 
 tounded by stone-walls, and planted with vegetables. Three miles from 
 this village a large town was seen, in the front of which, toward the sea, 
 was an angular kind of fortification, built of stone, and near five feet high. 
 
 About three miles hence they saw a bay, into which a river empties 
 itself, which they called Granville's River, and it appeared to be naviga- 
 ble for small vessels far up the country. The point of this bay was 
 called Ferrers's Point ; and from this the land forms a large bay, near 
 which is a considerable town, inhabited by an incredible number of peo- 
 ple, who, while the ship was sailing by, came out of their houses, hold- 
 ing something like a bundle of grass in their hands, with which they 
 appeared to stroke each other, running in rings, or dancing, all the while. 
 Sailing onward a few miles, they saw another point, which was called 
 Carteret Point, on which was a large canoe, with an awning over it ; 
 at a small distance was another town, fortified as that before- mentioned. 
 The inhabitants of this place likewise advanced before their houses, and 
 danced as the others had done. The dance being ended, many came off 
 in canoes toward the ship ; but having got near enough to have a good 
 view of her, they- would advance no farther. 
 
 They soon saw another small island, which was named Trevanion's 
 Island, and the north part of it was called Cape Trevanion. Both the 
 main land and this island abounded with inhabitants ; and a boat being 
 sent to sound the passage, they no sooner observed that she had left the 
 ship, than several canoes advanced to attack her. The Indians having 
 let fly their arrows, the boat's crew fired, and killed one man and wound- 
 ed another. A gun, laden with grape-shot, was at the same time fired 
 from the ship, on which all the canoes pulled hard for the shore, except 
 the one with the wounded man in it, which being taken to the ^hip, tha 
 surgeon was ordered to examine his wounds. One of this poor fellow's 
 arras was broken, and a shot had gone through his head ; and the siirgeon 
 being of opinion that the latter wound was mortal, he was placed in hit 
 canoe again, and with one hand rowed toward the shore. 
 
204 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 To all the islands they had now left Captain Carteret gave the general 
 name of Queen Charlotte's Islands ; and, besides those already mention- 
 ed, he saw several, which he named as follows : viz., Lord Howe's 
 Island, Keppel's Island, Lord Edgcome's Island, Ourry's Island, and 
 Volcano Island ; this last being so denominated from a sn>oke that 
 issued from its top, which is of an amazing height, and shaped like a 
 sugar loaf. 
 
 Sailed on the 20th of August, and discovered a small island, which 
 was called Gower's Island, the people of which did not differ in any- 
 thing material from those of the islands he had lately left. Some cocoa 
 nuts were here procured in exchange for nails ; and the inhabitants had 
 intimated, that they woold furnish a farther supply the next morning ; but 
 it was then found that the current had carried the ship considerably to 
 the south during the night, and brought them within sight of two other 
 islands, one of which was called Simpson's Island, and the other Car- 
 teret's Island. 
 
 They fell in with nine islands in the night of the 24th, which Captain 
 Carteret supposes to be the same that were discovered by Tasman, and 
 are named Ohang Java ; eight of these are very small, but the other is 
 more extensive, and are all inhabited by blacks, whose heads are woolly, 
 like those on the coast of Africa. The next day they had sight of an 
 island covered with verdure, which was called Sir Charles Hardy's Island, 
 and from the number of fires seen on it, was supposed to be inhabited. 
 This day they likewise had sight of a large island, formed of three high 
 hills, which took the name of Winchelsea's Island. On the 36th saw 
 a large island to the north, which Captain Carteret imagines to have been 
 the Island of St. John, discovered by Schouten. 
 
 This day were within sight of Nova Britannia, and the next morning 
 the current drove the ship into a deep bay, which, in Dampier's Voyages, 
 is called St. George's Bay. On the 28th they gave the name of Wal- 
 lis's Island to a small one in a bay, off which they came to an anchor, 
 apd were now 7,500 miles due-west from the main land of America. 
 
 On the next day, after great fatigue, weighed the anchor, and sailed to 
 a place which they called English Cove, where they immediately began 
 to take in wood and water. They now attempted to catch fish with 
 hooks and lines, but none of them would bite ; nor wece they much 
 more successful with their nets ; turtle likewise were very plentiful, yet 
 they could nol take any ; but at low water picked up some large cockles 
 and rock oysters. From the shore they procured cocoa nuts and the 
 cabbage of the cocoa tree, which is crisp and juicy ; this, when eaten 
 raw, tastes like a chestnut ; but, when boiled, has a more agreeable flavour 
 than the parsnip. It was found to be excellent when boiled with porta- 
 ble soup and oatmeal. They likewise gathered some plumbs, which 
 tasted like those of the West Indies, which are called Jamaica plumbs ; 
 and by this supply of vegetables, they had soon reason to rejoice in the 
 blessing of returning health. 
 
 They left this cove on the 7th of September, and anchored on the 
 same day almost close to a grove of cocoa nut trees, where they supplied 
 themselves with the fruit and the cabbage in very great abundance ; and 
 called the place Carteret's Harbour, which being formed by the main and 
 two islands, one of them was named Leigh's Island, and the other 
 Cocoa nut Island. On the 9th of September the anchor was weighed, 
 and wind and current being both contrary, they steered round the coast 
 into a channel between two islands, which channel was divided by an 
 
CAPTAIN CARTERET. 205 
 
 Other island, to which Captain Carteret gave the name of the Duke of 
 York's Island, and near which are several smaller ones. To the south 
 of the largest are three hills of singular form, which were called the 
 Mother and Daughters, one of which was supposed to be a volcano, from 
 the large clouds of smoke seen issuing from it. A point they called 
 Cape Palliser, lies to the east of these hills, and Cape Stephens to the 
 west ; north of which last lies an island, which took the name of the 
 Isle of Man. 
 
 Having brought-to for the night, they sailed next morning, when some 
 of the Indians put off in canoes toward the ship ; but the wind being fair 
 and blowing fresh, it was not thought proper to wait for them. Steering 
 north-west by west, they lost sight of New Britain on the 11th, and it 
 being now found that what had been taken for a bay was a strait, it was 
 called St. George's Channel, and the island on the north of it received 
 the name of New Ireland. In the evening they discovered a large island, 
 well clothed with verdure, which was denominated Sandwich Island ; oflf 
 this island the ship lay great part of the night, during which time a per- 
 petual noise was heard, resembling the sound of a drum. When they 
 had almost cleared the strait, the weather falling calm, a number of 
 canoes approached the ship, and, though they could not be prevailed on 
 to go on board, exchanged some little matters with the crew, receiving 
 nails and bits of iron, which they preferred to everything else that was 
 offered. Though the canoes of these people were formed out of single 
 trees, they were between 80 and 100 feet in length. The natives are 
 negroes, und their hair is of the woolly kind, but they have neither thick 
 lips nor flat noses. They wore shell-work on their legs and arms, but 
 were otherwise naked, except that their hair and beards were i)owdered 
 with white powder, and a feather was stuck into the head above the ear. 
 Their arms consisted of a long stick and a spear ; and it was observed, 
 that they had fishing-nets and cordage. 
 
 They now sailed west, and coming in sight of the south-west point of 
 the island, it was called Cape Byron ; near which is an island of considera- 
 ble extent, which received the name of New Hanover. The strait they 
 had now passed was called Byron's Strait ; one of the largest islands they 
 had seen, Byron's Island ; and the south-west point of New Hanover, 
 Queen Charlotte's Foreland. On the following day they saw several 
 small islands, which received the name of the Duke of Portland's Islands. 
 
 When they had completely navigated St. George's Channel, the whole 
 length of which is about 100 leagues, they sailed a westward course, and 
 on the 14th of September discovered several islands. The next morn- 
 ing some hundreds of the natives came off in canoes toward the ship, and 
 were invited on board by every token of friendship and good will ; not- 
 withstanding which, when they came within reach, they threw several 
 lances at the seamen on the deck. A great gun and several muskets were 
 now fired at them, by which some were killed or wounded, on which they 
 rowed toward the shore ; and, after they had got to a distance, a shot 
 was fired so as to fall beyond them, to convince them that they were not 
 out of the reach of the guns. These people were almost negroes, with 
 woolly hair, which they powdered ; and they went naked, except the orna- 
 ments of shells round their arms and legs. 
 
 Captain Carteret now coasted along the islands, to which he gave the 
 general name of the Admiralty Islands. He describes them as having a 
 most enchanting appearance, being covered with woods, groves of cocoa 
 nut trees, and the houses of the natives. The largest of these islands is 
 
 iS 
 
2(^ VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 computed to be above fifty miles in length : and he supposes that they 
 produce many valuable articles, particularly spices. 
 
 They discovered two small verdant islands on the 19th, which were 
 called Dufour's Island and Matty's Island, the inhabitants of which last 
 ran along the coast with lights during the night. They had sight of two 
 other small islands on the 24th, which were called Stephens's Islands, and 
 which abounded with beautiful trees. 
 
 On the evening of the 25ih they had sight of three islands, the natives 
 of which came otf in canoes, and went on board the ship. They barter- 
 ed cocoa nuts for some bits of iron, with which metal they did not seem 
 unacquamted, and appeared extravagantly fond of it. They called it 
 parram, and intimated, that a ship sometimes touched at their islands. 
 These people were of the copper colour, and had fine black hair ; but their 
 beards were very small, as they were continually plucking the hair from 
 their faces. Their teeth were even and white, and their countenances 
 agreeable ; their activity was such, that they ran to the mast-head even 
 quicker than the seamen. They ate and drank anything that was ^iven 
 them ; and had not the least degree of reserve in their behaviour. Their 
 dress consisted only of a piece of fine matting round the waist. As the 
 current carried the ship at a great rate, the captain had no opportunity of 
 landing, though the Indians offered that some of their people should re- 
 main on board, as a security for the safe return of such of the seamen as 
 might be sent on shore. One of the Indians, on finding that none of the 
 crew were to land, absolutely refused to leave the ship, and was therefore 
 carried to the Island of Celebes, where he died. This man was named 
 Joseph Freewill, and the largest of the islands was called Freewill Island ; 
 but the natives called it Pegan ; and the names of the other two are 
 Onato and Onello. 
 
 On the evening of the 28th discovered an island from the mast-head ; 
 but neither visited nor gave name to it. On the 12th of October saw a 
 small island, which v/as named Current Island, from the great strength of 
 the southerly current ; and on the following day discovered two more 
 small islands, which were called St. Andrew's Islands. 
 
 On the 26th they had sight of land, which, on the day following, they 
 knew to be the Island of Mindanao, and coasted the south-east part of it, 
 in search of a bay described in Dampier's Voyages, but could not find it. 
 
 On the 14th of November, 1767, they reached the Strait of Macassar, 
 situate between the Islands of Borneo and Celebes, to a point of which 
 latter island they gave the name of Hummock Point. 
 
 On the 27th crossed the equinoctial line, and got into southern latitude^ 
 at which time they found the current setting against them, and the torna- 
 does became violent. The crew was now diminishing by death, and 
 weakened daily by sickness, so that there were hardly hands sufficient to 
 navigate the vessel. On the 3d of December saw the islands called the 
 Little Pater-nosters, which lie something more than two degrees south 
 of the fine ; but it was out of their power to land anywhere for refresh- 
 ment, as the winds and currents were contrary. Not a man on board was 
 now free from the scurvy ; and when it was imagined that nothing could 
 have aggravated their distress, they were attacked by a pirate in the mid- 
 dle of the night of the 10th of December. It was so very dark that they 
 could not see their enemy, who attacked them with swivel-guns and small 
 arms ; but they returned the salute so warmly, that the pirate was sunk, 
 and all her crew perished, after having wounded two persons on board 
 the Swallow, and done some very trifling damage to the ship. 
 
CAPTAlfl CARTEREt. 207 
 
 By the 12th of this month they had lost thirteen of the crew, and the 
 death of thirty others was hourly dreaded. At this time, too, the wester- 
 ly monsoou was set in, so that it was impossible to reach Balavia ; and 
 as they must speedily make some land, or inevitably perish, it was re- 
 solved to attempt getting to Macassar, a Dutch settlement on the Island 
 of Celebes. On the 13th they saw several trees fldating, and birds sit- 
 ting on them, and tv;o days afterward came to an anchor, at little more 
 than a league from Macassar. 
 
 I,ate that night, the governor sent a Dutchman on hoard the Swallow, 
 who was greatly alarmed to find that she was an English man-of-war, no 
 such vessel having ever anchored there before ; and so apprehensive of 
 danger was he, as not to venture to enter the cabin. Very early the 
 next day the captain sent a letter to the governor, requesting permission 
 to buy provisions, and asking shelter for the shipj till the proper season 
 returned for sailing to the westward. 
 
 Soon after an answer came, intimating, that the ship should instantly 
 depart from the port, without coming any nearer to the town ; that she 
 should not anchor on any part of the coast, and that the captain should 
 not permit any of his people to land on any place that Was under the 
 governor's jurisdiction. 
 
 As the most forcible reply to this, the captain showed his dying men 
 to the bearers, and pleaded the urgent necessity of the case. They could 
 not but see and feel the propriety of granting refreshments and shelter 
 to'persons in such a situation, but still said their orders were absolute, 
 and must be obeyed. Provoked at this treat.nent, the captain declared 
 he would anchor close to the town ; and if they then refused him neces- 
 saries, that he would run the ship aground, and himself and crew would 
 sell their lives as dearly as possible. Alarmed at this declaration, they 
 begged the captain to remain in his present station till the governor should 
 give farther orders. After several disputes, they sailed early on the 20th 
 of December, and anchored in the road of Bonthain, a neighbouring port, 
 on the following day. 
 
 On the 18th of January a letter from Macassar informed Captain 
 Carteret that the Dolphin, his consort, had arrived at Batavia, 
 
 Having taken in wood and water, they sailed hence on the 22d of May, 
 and on the 2d of June they had sight of the land of Java — on the follow- 
 ing day coming to an anchor in the road of Batavia. 
 
 On the 18th the captain learned that orders had been given for repairing 
 the ship at Onrust, whither a pilot attended her, and where she came to 
 an anchor on the 22d of June ; but as the wharfs were pre-engaged by 
 other ships, the repairs did not commence till the 24th of July. 
 
 Captain Carteret having engaged some English seamen, sailed from 
 Onrust on the 15th of September ; and en the 23d of November camo 
 to an anchor in Tabid Bay, in the Cape of Good Hope. The captain 
 '"having received numberless civdities from the governor and other gen- 
 tlemen of this place, sailed on the 6th of January ; and on the 20th 
 anchored off the Island of St. Helena, from whence he again sailed on 
 the 24th. 
 
 On the 20th of this month a ship, which had been seen the preceding 
 day far to the leeward, but had out-sailed the Swallow in the night, tacked 
 and stood toward her. A boat was sent on board, in which was a young 
 officer, who, by many artful questions, endeavoured to learn from. Cap- 
 tain Carteret all the most important particulars of his voyage ; and this 
 piece of finesse was aggravated, by his inventing a tale to disguise those 
 
20S VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of his own voyage ; for the vessel he had just left was no other than that 
 of M. Bougainville, which was then returning from a voyage round the 
 world. Captain Carteret learned this circumstance afterward from the 
 lieutenant ; for the boat's crew, which had brought the French officer on 
 board, had discovered every secret to one of the English crew who spoke 
 French. Captain Carteret, however, kept his own secret so well, that 
 Bougainville was not at all the wiser for the time hs had lost in the 
 negotiation of this illiberal business. 
 
 Our adventurers had sight of the western islands on the 7th of March, 
 1769, and came to an anchor at Spithead on the 20th of the same month, 
 without meeting with anything farther worth recording. 
 
 MONS. DE BOUGAINVILLE.— 1766-69. 
 
 A SETTLEMENT having been commenced by the French on Falkland's 
 Islands, in the month of February, 1764, the Spaniards demanded them 
 as an appendage to the continent of South America ; and France having 
 allowed the propriety of the demand. Mens, de Bougainville was ordered 
 to yield possession of the islands to the Spaniards. 
 
 On the 5th of December he sailed from the harbour of Brest, in the 
 frigate La Boudeuse ; having on board the Prince of Nassau Seighen, 
 three gentlemen who went as volunteers, eleven officers in commission, 
 and warrant officers, seamen, soldiers, servants, and boys, to the number 
 of 200. 
 
 On the evening of the 29th of January they had sight of Rio-de-Ia- 
 Plata, and on the morning of the 3Ist came to an anchor in the Bay of 
 Montevideo, where the two Spanish ships, which were to take possession 
 of Falkland's Islands, had been at anchor for some weeks. 
 
 They went on shore above the colony of San Sacramento, and travelled 
 over a prodigious extent of country to Buenos Ayres, in which there 
 were no roads, and where the eye was their only guide. During this 
 expedition, they slept in little hovels constructed with leather, while the 
 tigers howled round them on every side. Mons. Bougainville particularly 
 mentions the manner and the danger of their passing the River St. Lucia, 
 which is wide and deep, yet amazingly rapid : being placed in a long nar- 
 row canoe, one side of which was beyond all proportion higher than the 
 other, a horse was fastened on each side the vessel, the master of which, 
 pulling oft" all his clothes, got into it, and supporting the heads of the 
 horses above the surface of the stream, drove them across in the best 
 manner he was able, and, with some difficulty, they stemmed the rapidity 
 of the torrent. They sailed with two Spanish ships on the 28th of Feb- 
 ruary, J 767 ; and, on the Isf of April, Mons. Bougainville, in the name 
 of tlie French king, surrendered the islands to Don Puente, the Spanish 
 governor, who received it for his Most Catholic Majesty, with the cere- 
 mony of hoisting the Spanish colours, and the firing of guns from the 
 ships and on shore. 
 
 Falkland's Islands lie in about 52 degrees south latitude, and 60 de- 
 grees west longitude. From the entrance of the Straits of Magellan, and 
 from the coast of Patagonia, their distance is about 250 miles. The har- 
 bours are large, and well defended by small islands, most happily dis- 
 posed ; and even the smallest vessels may ride in safety in the creeks, 
 while fresh water is Cdsily to be obtained, as the small rivers which 
 descend from the mountains discharge themselves into the sea. In the 
 
DE BOUGAINVILLE* 209 
 
 spring and autumn there are slight hoar frosts, which, being changed to a 
 kind of dew by the warmth of the sun, are rather favourable than pre- 
 judicial to the vegetable productions. There is seldom any thunder or 
 lightning, nor is the climate hot or cold in any extraordinary degree. 
 Throughout the year the nights are, in general, starlight, serene, and 
 fair ; and, upon the whole, the climate is favourable to the constitution. 
 The depth of the soil in the valleys is more than suflkient for the purposes 
 of plowing. Under the first land is a layer of black earth, ten inches or 
 more in depth ; under that again a yellow soil, beneath which are stones 
 and slate ; but these stones are not found on the little adjacent islands. 
 Wild vegetables in abundance are found, and used as antiscorbutics, par- 
 ticularly water cresses, sorrel, wild parsley, a kind of maiden-hair, and a 
 species of celery. '. 
 
 Sea lions and seals are the only amphibious animals found in these 
 parts ; but there are great varieties of fish on the coasts, scarce any of 
 which are known in Europe. It sometimes happens that the whales, 
 getting too near the shore, are stranded in the bays, where their remains 
 have been seen. The only quadruped is of a species between the fox 
 and the wolf, and our author, therefore, calls him the wolf-fox ; the tail 
 of this animal is more bushy than that of the wolf, and he lives in a kennel 
 which he digs in the ground, on the downs, by the sea-aide. At one time 
 of the year the wolf-fox is so lean as to appear almost starved, from 
 whence it is imagined that he fasts for a considerable time ; he is about 
 as large as a sheep dog, and barks very much like one, only that his 
 yelp is not so loud. The coasts produce land and water fowls in incre- 
 dible numbers, many of which are the prey of falcons, hawks, eagles, and 
 owls ; while the eggs and the young birds are destroyed by the wolf-fox. 
 The smaller fish are destroyed by the whales, the amphibious animals, 
 and the voracious birds, some of which are constantly flying close over 
 the surface of the waters, while others perch themselves on the rocks to 
 watch the event. 
 
 After waiting at these islands till the 2d of June, 1767, in expectation 
 of the Etoile store-ship fiom Europe, and finding she did not arrive, Mons. 
 Bougainville considered, that as his vessel had only two months' provi- 
 sions on board, it would be rashness to attempt crossing the great Pacific 
 Ocean alone ; he therefore resolved to steer to Rio Janeiro, at which 
 place he had appointed the Etoile to join him, in case any unforeseen acci- 
 dent should prevent her reaching Falkland's Islands before he left the 
 harbour of that place. They had fine weather from the 2d till the 20th 
 of June, on which day they had sight of the mountains on the main land 
 of Brazil, and entered Rio Janeiro the day following. 
 
 At the same time a canoe was despatched from the captain of the Etoile, 
 to inform Mons. Bougainville of the safe arrival of that vessel, which now 
 lay in the port ; and, on the 14th of July, 1767, the anchors of the Bou- 
 deuse and Etoile were weighed ; but, as the wind abated soon afterward, 
 they were obliged again to bring-to, before they could get out of the har- 
 bour. They sailed, however, on the following day ; and in the night of 
 the 19th the main- top-sail of the Boudeuse was carried away by the 
 violence of the wind. 
 
 The vessels sailed into the Rio-de-la-Plata, and were within sight of 
 the Maldonados on the 29th ; early in the morning of the 31st they had 
 a view of the Isle of Lobos, and before night came to an anchor in the 
 Bay of Montevideo. As it was necessary that Mons. Bougainville should 
 remain in his present station till the equinox was passed, his first care 
 A 18* 
 
210 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 was to build an hospital for the sick, and to take lodgings at Montevideo. 
 This being done, he repaired to Buenos Ayres, in order to hasten the 
 provision of such necessaries as he wanted, for which he was to pay the 
 same price as the King of Spain usually gave for the same commodities. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 14th of November, 1767, they sailed from 
 Montevideo, with a fine gale of wind at north, being in sight of land till 
 the evening. On the 16th, and the five following days, the sea ran high 
 and the wind was contrary. The 2d of December they had sight of Cape 
 Virgins, about which time they made all the sail possible, as the wind 
 was in their favour. They now saw a number of albatrosses and petrels, 
 the last of which Mons. Bougainville says are a sign of bad weather, 
 whenever they are seen. 
 
 On the 3d of December, the wind blowing favourable for a short time, 
 they made their best efforts to reach the entrance of the Straits of Magel- 
 lan ; and Mons. Bougainville was seven weeks and three days in passing 
 through it, the whole length of which, from Cape Virgin Mary to Cape 
 Pillar, he computes at about 340 miles. 
 
 On the 2 1st of March a tunny fish was taken, in the belly of which 
 were a number of small fish, of such kinds as are known not to swim far 
 ought to sea ; whence it was concluded, that land could not be at any 
 great distance ; and on the following day this conjecture appeared to 
 well founded, for four very small islands were then discovered ; but as 
 these were too much to windward, they held on their way, steering for 
 another island, which was almost right ahead. As the vessels advanced 
 toward the latter, it was observed to abound with cocoa nut trees ; these 
 grew on plats of grass, strewed with an abundance of beautiful flowers ; 
 and the rest of the island was clothed with trees of various kinds ; but 
 the sea running high, and no harbour being di.';covered in which our 
 voyagers might hope for protection from the fury of its waves, they were 
 prevented from landing ; when they had coasted the island for about two 
 miles, they had sight of three men, who advanced hastily toward the 
 shore. They at first imagined that these were part of the crew of some 
 European ship, whicli had been wrecked on the coast ; and, impressed 
 with this idea, were desirous to give the wished-for relief; but discovered 
 their conjecture ill founded, for the people retired to the woods, from 
 whence, in a short time, issued a number of them, supposed to be near 
 twenty, with long staves in their hands, which they held up with an air 
 of defiance. This done, they retreated to the woods, in which, by the 
 help of glasses, their habitations were plainly seen. These islanders 
 were of a copper complexion, and very tall. 
 
 During the night between the 22d and 23d they had much rain, ac- 
 compp-nied with violent thunder, while the wind blew almost a tempest. 
 At daydawn land was discovered, which appeared to be a regular level, 
 sufficiently clothed with verdure. Night advanced before any proper 
 place was found for the boats to land, nor were they more successful in 
 the morning ; wherefore they held on their course, Mons. Bougainville 
 having called the place Harp Island. In the evening on which it was 
 discovered, they had sight of other land, at the distance of something 
 more than twenty miles, which had the appearance of being, what it after- 
 ward was found to be, a cluster of islands, eleven of which were seen, 
 and received the name of the Dangerous Archipelago. 
 
 A steep mountain, which appeared to be encompassed by the sea, was 
 discovered on the 2d of April, and received the name of the Boudoir, or 
 Boudeuse Peak, from that of Mons. Bougainville's ship. Bearing to the 
 
DE BOUGAINVILLE. . ^29^ 
 
 northward of this peak, they had sight of land, which extended farther 
 than the eye could reach. 
 
 While standing toward the land, a boat was seen coming from the 
 offing, which soon afterward crossed ahead of the ship and joined a 
 number of other boats, which had assembled from various parts of the 
 island. This assemblage of boats was preceded by one which was rowed 
 by twelve Indians, quite naked, who advanced toward the side of the 
 ship, and held up some boughs of the banana tree. 
 
 In a short time upward of 100 boats surrounded the ships, laden with 
 bananas, cocoa nuts, and various other kinds of fruit, receiving in exchange 
 a number of toys. In order to carry on this traffic, the voyagers held up 
 such articles as they meant to give for the fruit, and when the natives 
 were satisfied with the quantity offered, it was let down by the ship's 
 side in a net or basket, and the Indians having taken it out, returned 
 their commodities by the same conveyance ; but sometimes the basket 
 was lowered empty, and the natives put their effects in it before they had 
 received the European goods, without seeming to harbour the least dis- 
 trust or jealousy of those with whom they dealt. 
 
 As Mons. Bougainville coasted the island, he was charmed with tho 
 appearance of a noble cascade, which, falling immediately from the sum- 
 . mit of a mountain into the sea, produced a most elegant effect. On the 
 shores, very near to the fall of this cascade, was a little town, and the 
 coast appeared to be free from breakers. It was the wish of our adven- 
 turers to have cast their anchor within view of such an enchanting pros- 
 pect ; but, after repeated soundings, they found that the bottom consisted 
 only of rocks, and they were, therefore, under a necessity of seeking 
 another anchoring place ; and returned to the bay observed on first dis- 
 covering land, where he hoped to find a convenient anchoring place, and 
 where, after different soundings, the ships were at length safely moored. 
 
 The natives now put off in their boats, and surrounded the ships in 
 greater numbers than they had yet done, exhibiting many tokens of regard, 
 and perpetually crying out Taio, which was afterward found to signify 
 friend. The strangers were much pleased with some nails and toys which 
 the officers and sailors gave them. These boats were crowded with 
 women, whose beauty of face was at least equal to that of the ladies of 
 Europe, and their symmetry of bodv much superior. 
 
 The commodore and some of his officers now went on shore to take a 
 view of the watering place, and were no sooner landed, than the natives 
 flocked around in prodigious numbers, regarding them with looks of in- 
 expressible curiosity ; some bolder than the rest, came and touched the 
 French, and put aside their clothes, to find if they were formed like them- 
 selves. A person, who appeared to be of authority, took Mons. Bougain- 
 ville's party to his house, where they found an old' man, the father of the 
 chief, and several women. These last paid their compliments to the 
 strangers by placing their hands on their breasts, and frequently repeat- 
 ing the word Taw. The old man was a truly venerable figure, whose 
 long white beard and hair added dignity to his person, which was ex- 
 ceedingly graceful and well formed. He had none of the decrepitude of 
 age, no wrinkles on his face, and his body was nervous and fleshy. 
 
 The house of the chief was about twenty feet in width, eighty in length, 
 and covered with thatch, from which hn;ig a cylinder, above a yard long, 
 formed of the twigs of the ozier, and adorned with black feathers. Having 
 directed his guests to seat themselves on a grass-plot in front of his house, 
 he presented them with a collation, consisting of broiled fish, water, and 
 
Sl^ VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 fruit. While regaling themselves he produced two collars, formed of 
 oziers, and adorned with shark's teeth and black feathers. These col- 
 lars, which resembled the prodigious large ruffs worn by the French in 
 the reign of Francis I., were put on the necks of Mons. Bougainville and 
 a gentleman of his party. The chief having likewise presented our author 
 with some pieces of cloth, the French were about to take their leave of 
 this hospitable Indian, when one of them found that his pocket had been 
 picked of his pistol ; on which a complaint was made to the chief, who 
 immediately reprimanded several of his household, and would have 
 searched them all ; but this the commodore wouhl not permit, contenting 
 himself with intimating to the chief, that the weapon which had beeui 
 stolen would kill the thief 
 
 The chief went on board Mons. Bougainville's ship the following day, 
 and took with him a present of some fowls and a hog ; he likewise gave 
 a full proof of the integrity of his heart, by returning the stolen pistol. 
 His name it appeared was Ereti ; he remained on board several hours, and 
 then went on shore with Mons. Bougainville, who by this time had made the 
 necessary preparations for landing the sick and filling the water casks. 
 Ereti complimented Mons. Bougainville with the use of a large build- 
 ing, erected on the side of the rivulet for the purpose of laying up the 
 Indian boats, which were, at the command of the chief, instantly removed. 
 Under this roof tents were put up for the accommodation of the sick, and 
 other tents for various uses. A sufficient number of muskets were carried 
 on shore to arm thirty marines, all the workmen, and even the invalids, 
 in case of necessity. Mons. Bougainville passed the first night on shore 
 in company with Ereti, who added his supper to that of the commodore, 
 invited a few select friends to partake of the repast, and gave orders that 
 a crowd of Indians, whose curiosity had brought them to the spot, should 
 be dispersed. He then desired to see some tire-works, which he beheld 
 with a mixture of pleasure and astonishment. 
 
 The camp was completed on the following day, and the building entire- 
 ly enclosed, except at one entrance, where a guard was constantly 
 stationed. None of the Indians were admitted into this building but 
 Ereti and his friends of both sexes. A crowd of people were constant- 
 ly about the place, but they made way for any one who had permission 
 to enter, on the motion of a small stick which a Frenchman held in his 
 hand. To this place the natives assembled from all quarters, bringing 
 poultry, hogs, fish, fruit, and cloth ; in exchange for which they received 
 buttons, beads, tools, nails, and trinkets of various kinds, on which they 
 appeared to set a high value. 
 
 The article of thieving excepted, every other intercourse between the 
 French and Indians was carried on in the most harmonious manner. The 
 seamen made several incursions into the island, unarmed, sometimes in 
 small parties, and sometimes singly ; when the natives invited them into 
 their houses, gave them provisions, and presented the young damsels as 
 wives. 
 
 Soon after the camp was formed, the commodore was visited on board 
 the ship by Toutaa, the chief of a district near that of Ereti, a very tall 
 man, and admirably well made, who was attended by several others, hard- 
 ly one of whom was less than six feet in height. Toutaa brought with 
 him cloth, hogs, fowls, and fruit, which he presented to Mons. Bougain 
 ville, who complimented him with some silk stuffs, trinkets, nails, &c. 
 The chief invited Bougainville to his house, where, in the midst of a large 
 assembly, he presented him with a fine young girl, whom the commodore 
 
DE BOUGAINVILLE. 213 
 
 conjectures to have been one of his wives, and the musicians instantly 
 began the bridal hymn. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 12th, the cable of the Boudeuse parting, 
 that ship ran foul of the Etoile, and at this unfortunate juncture news 
 arrived that three of the Indians had been either killed or wounded in their 
 huts ; and that, in consequence of this unhappy circumstance, a general 
 terror had seized the inhabitants. The women, children, and old men, 
 had fled up the country, taking their effects with them, and even carry- 
 ing off the bodies of the deceased. The commodore, on receiving this 
 intelligence, went on shore, and selecting four marines, on whom rested 
 the suspicion of having perpetrated this foul deed, he ordered them to be 
 put into irons in the presence of Ereti ; but apprehensive that the natives 
 might revenge their injuries, he spent a considerable part of the night at 
 the camp, and gave orders for a reinforcement of the guards. After ten 
 at night the wind blew violently, the sea swelled to an enormous height, 
 the rain descended in torrents, and the whole scene was tempestuous in 
 a high degree. He went on board soon after midnight, when a violent 
 squall of wind was driving the ships toward the shore. Providentially the 
 storm was soon over, and a breeze from the shore prevented the vessels 
 being stranded. 
 
 Soon after daylight it was observed that the camp was totally destitute 
 of its usual visiters ; not an Indian was to be seen near it, nor even a 
 single boat sailing on the river. The natives had quitted their houses, 
 and the whole country appeared to be depopulated. The Prince of Nas- 
 sau now went on shore with a small party, and, at about three miles from 
 the camp, found Ereti, with a considerable number of his subjects. When 
 the chief recollected the prince, he advanced toward him with a counte- 
 nance expressive of hope and terror. Many women were now with him, 
 who, dropping on their knees at the feet of the prince, kissed his hands, 
 and, bathed in tears, exclaimed, Taio male ! You are our friends, and 
 you kill us ! 
 
 The prince succeeded in his endeavours to inspire them with fresh 
 confidence ; and Mons. Bougainville had the pleasure of observing, from 
 on board, by the help of his glasses, that the natives hastened to the 
 camp, carrying with them fowls, fruits, &c., so that there could be no 
 doubt but that peace was re-established. He instantly left the ship, and 
 taking with him a quantity of silk stuffs and a variety of other articles, 
 he presented them to the principal persons, intimating how unhappy he 
 was on account of the misfortune which had happened, and assuring them, 
 that the perpetrators of so foul a deed should not escape unpunished. 
 The grateful Indians caressed the commodore, the natives in general were 
 happy that peace was restored, and the market soon became more crowd- 
 ed than ever ; so that in two days only more refreshments were brought 
 in than had been before, and the whole place had the appearance of a fair. 
 The Indians now requested to see some muskets fired, but were not a 
 little alarmed, when they found that the animals fired at were instantly 
 killed. 
 
 Soon after dawn on the 15th, when the Indians observed their visiters 
 making preparations for their departure, Ereti came hastily on board in 
 the first boat that was ready. He clasped in his arms, embraced, and 
 wept over those new-made acquaintances whom he was about to part with 
 for ever. This scene was scarcely ended, when a larger boat, in which 
 were the wives of this generous chief, came alongside the ship, laden with 
 • variety of refreshments. This vessel likewise brought off the Indiau 
 
214 VOYAGES ROUND THIJ WORLD. 
 
 who, on their first arrival, had slept on board the Etoile. This man was 
 called Aotourou. Ereti presented him to Mons. Bougainville, intimating 
 his determined resolution to sail with the strangers, and entreating per- 
 mission that he might do so. This request being complied with, Ereti 
 presented him to the officers respectively, saying, that he trusted a well- 
 beloved friend to the care and protection of friends equally beloved. The 
 chief, having accepted some presents, returned to the boat, in which were 
 a number of weeping beauties. With him went Aotourou, to take a 
 melancholy leave of a lovely damsel, the dear object of his regard. He 
 took three pearls from his ears, which he delivered as a love-token to the 
 desponding beauty ; embraced her affectionately, tore himself from her 
 arms, and left it to time and tears to restore her serenity of mind. 
 
 Otaheite produces rich pearls, which are worn by the women and chil- 
 dren ; but these were secreted almost as soon as the French landed, and 
 were seen no more during their stay. A sort of castanets, instruments 
 used by the Indian dancers, are formed out of the shells of the pearl oys- 
 ters. The only quadrupeds seen on the island were hogs, small but 
 handsome dogs, and rats. Of winged animals there are parroquets of 
 exquisite beauty, the feathers of which are red and blue, most happily 
 blended ; pigeons, rather larger than ours, of a deep blue colour, and most 
 delicate taste ; and common domestic poultry, differing in no respect from 
 those of Europe. The hogs and fowls feed on plantains only, so that the 
 purity of their food must ensure the goodness of their meat. Bougam- 
 ville obtained, by his traffic with the natives, about 140 hogs and more 
 than 800 fowls ; and he might have procured much larger numbers, if his 
 stay had been longer. No venomous animals were seen on this island, 
 nor any of those noxious insects which are common to, and are the great- 
 est Curse of, hot climates. 
 
 The natives are of two distinct tribes, having no personal resemblance, 
 yet practising the same customs, associating together in the most'friendly 
 manner, and conversing in the same dialect. The first race of these 
 people are much taller, larger, and better proportioned than the other. 
 Few of these are less than six feet high. The other tribe are about the 
 middle stature, have almost the features and complexion of mulattoes, 
 and rough, curled hair, as strong as the bristles of a hog. Aotourou was 
 of this tribe, and the son of one of the chiefs of the island. Both tribes 
 shave the.upper part of the face, permitting the beard on the chin to grow, 
 and a whisker on each lip. Some bind the hair on the top of the head, 
 while others cut it short, but all rub the oil of the cocoa nut into the hair 
 and beard. They permit all their nails to grow to a great length; except 
 that of the middle finger of the right hand. Among these people one 
 cripple only was seen ; and it was supposed that he got his hurt by a fall. 
 
 When an inhabitant of Otaheite dies, his body is deposited on a kind 
 of bier, placed under a shed, to which the women resort daily, and anoint 
 the corpse with the oil of the cocoa nut. In these places they are left 
 till all the flesh is wasted from the bones, and then the skeleton is con- 
 veyed to the hut of his relations, where a person, who appears to have 
 great authority, attends, and being dressed in a habit peculiar to the oc- 
 casion, he performs some solemn ceremonies : but how long the skeletons 
 are kept in the houses does not appear. Bougainville endeavoured to 
 learn of Aotourou the religious ceremonies of his countrymen ; and if 
 they mutuaUy understood each other, it will appear that the people of 
 Otaheite are superstitious in a high degree ; that the supreme authority 
 is vested in the priests ; that their principal Deity is called Ebi-t-Era, 
 
DE BOUGAINVILLE. 215 
 
 that is, King of Light, or of the Sun ; besides whom they acknov.-ledge 
 a number of inferior divinities, some of whom produce evil, and others 
 good ; that the general name of these ministering spirits is Eatoua ; ani 
 that the natives suppose two of these divinities attend each affair of con 
 sequence in human Ufe, determining its fate either advantageously o« 
 otherwise. 
 
 The principal people on the island appear to have many wives ; and ou. 
 authors thinks polygamy is common among them all. The rich are chief 
 ly distinguished from the poor by keeping a greater number of the fail 
 sex ; for universal love is the characteristic of the inhabitants of Otaheite. 
 Otaheitans are ingenious in the construction of their fishing tackle, the 
 hooks of which are of mother-of-pearl, and wrought as nicely as if with 
 European tools. With threads drawn frorn the American aloe they 
 form their nets, which are made like those of France and other nations 
 of Europe. Their houses, too, are exceedingly well built, and the palm 
 leaves, with which they are thatched, are laid on with great skill and 
 taste. Their boats are of two kinds ; one very large, hollowed out of 
 huge frees, and finished with much taste, parts of other trees being 
 added as ornaments ; the other smnll, and of much ruder construction. 
 In order to go from one island to another, they fix beams of wood from the 
 starboard side of one vessel to the larboard of the other, leaving an inter- 
 mediate space of something more than a yard ; and over the stern of both 
 the boats they erect a kind of hut, lightly built, and covered with reeds, 
 which serves as a repository for their provisions, and a shelter against 
 the inclemency of the weather. The boats thus lashed together never 
 overset, and are, therefore, much in use among the people of superior 
 rank ; the sails of these vessels are nearly square, and consist of mats, 
 stretched out by means of pieces of cane. 
 
 Aotourou informed the commodore, that an English ship had arrived 
 at Otaheite about eight months before the French touched at that island. 
 This was the vessel commanded by Captain WaUis ; and he ascribes the 
 knowledge of iron, which was observed among the natives, to this visit 
 of the English, especially as they call it Aouri, which is not very unlike 
 our word iron. Mons. Bougainville now departed from Otaheite, and on 
 the morning of the ICth of April, 1768, discovered what he thought to 
 be three other islands, but it was afterward found to be only one. In 
 the beginning of May three islands were discovered at the distance of 
 ten or twelve leagues to the north-west. The commodore had given 
 directions to steer between them, when a boat, with five Indians, was 
 observed coming off toward the ship. She advanced very near, but, 
 though every sign of friendly invitation was made, not one of them would 
 venture on board. They had no kind of clothing but a bandage round 
 the waist ; and as they could not be prevailed on to come up the ship's 
 side, Aotourou stripped himself, leaving on nothing more than what they 
 wore, and addressed them in the language of Otaheite ; but they under- 
 stood not a word of what he said. On the morning of the 5th they dis- 
 covered a most beautiful island, consisting of alternate mountains and 
 valleys, clothed with the richest verdure, and finely shadowed by the 
 spreading branches of the cocoa nut and a variety of other trees. Near 
 the westernmost point of this island is a ledge of rocks, and the sea breaks 
 With violence on many parts of the coast, so that it would be difficult to 
 land, except hi very few places. On the following day another island 
 was seen to the westward of the ship's course, in the neighbourhood of 
 which were two smaller islands; to these islands the commodore gave the 
 
216 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 general name of Archipelago of the Navigators. On the morning of the 
 11th another island was discovered, which received .the name of the 
 Forlorn Hope ; but for what reason does not appear. 
 
 The ships now steered a westerly course, and early on the morning of 
 the 22d two islands were discovered, one of which received the name 
 of Aurora, from the early hour on which it was first seen, and the other 
 that of Whitsuntide Isle, from the day which gave birth to its being so 
 named. In the afternoon mountainous lands, at thirty miles distance, 
 were seen, appearing, as it were, over and beyond the Island of Aurora. 
 On the 23d it was discovered that this was a separate island ; the ap- 
 pearance being lofty, its descent steep, and the whole clothed with trees. 
 Bougainville gives the following description of the natives of this island, 
 which he called the Island of Lepers, from observing, that many of the 
 inhabitants were afflicted with the leprosy : Some of them are mulattoes, 
 and others perfect negroes ; their hair woolly, and generally black, but in 
 some instances of a very light brown, approaching to a yellow. Few 
 women were seen among them, but those few were equally disagreeable 
 with the men, who are represented as low in stature, ill-favoured, and 
 disproportionably made. 
 
 On the 23d more land was discovered, which, on the 25th, was observed 
 to enclose almost all the horizon, so that the ships were surrounded in 
 one extensive gulf, while the coast of the newly discovered country 
 contained many other gulfs, or large inlets, across which several boats 
 were observed rowing, from one shore to the other. The night of the 
 25th was spent in tacking ; the number of isles now seen was so great 
 that they could not be counted, nor could their termination be discerned. 
 
 On the morning of the 27t1i they again sailed, and in a few hours had 
 sight of a fine plantation of trees, between which there were regular 
 walks, resembling those of an European garden. Many of the natives 
 were seen near this spot, and as an inlet was observed at no small dis- 
 tance, the commodore ordered the boats to be hoisted out ; but they found 
 that it was impracticable to land. They now quitted this great cluster 
 of islands, which received the general name of Archipelago of the great 
 Cyclades, which, it is conjectured, occupies no less than three degrees 
 of latitude, and five of longitude. Mons. Bougainville says, that these 
 islands are not the same that Quiros called Tierra Austral del Espiritu 
 Santo ; but that Roggewein saw the northern extremity of them, which 
 he denominated Groningen and Thienhoven. 
 
 On the night between the 4th and 5th of June some breakers were 
 seen, at half a league's distance, by the light of the moon. In the morn- 
 ing it appeared to be a low, flat, sandy isle, abounding in birds, which re- 
 ceived the name of the Shoal of Diana. A sand-bank was discovered on 
 the 6th, on which the sea broke violently, and the tops of rocks were seen 
 at intermediate spaces. On the 10th, before daybreak, an agreeable fra- 
 grancy impregnated the air, announcing that land was near ; and it was 
 accordingly discovered before sunrise. This is described as a most 
 delicious country, divided near the sea-coast into groves and plains, 
 behind which the land rises, in the form of an amphitheatre, till the tops 
 of the mountains are lost in the clouds. 
 
 On the 18th not less than nine or ten islands were discovered, and on 
 the 20th a still greater number. On the 25th high land was discovered, 
 which appeared to terminate m a cape, which they doubled with a degree 
 of transport that may be more easily conceived than described, as it was 
 the point they had wished for a sight of, from a certainty that it would 
 
DE BOUGAINVILLE. 217 
 
 enable them to quit for ever the Archipelago of islands, amid which 
 they had been so long in hourly danger of shipwreck or starving. This 
 cape was called Cape Deliverance, and the name of the gulf of the 
 Louisiade was given to a bay, of which the cape forms the easternmost point. 
 
 July the 2d a cape was discovered, which was called Cape I'Averdi, 
 on which were mountains of an astonishing height. On the 4th other 
 mountainous land was discovered, from which came off five or six In- 
 dians, and, after lying on their oars some time, accepted some trifles which 
 were thrown to them, exhibiting some cocoa nuts, saying, bouca, houca^ 
 onelle ! and seemed greatly pleased when the French repeated them. 
 They then intimated that they would fetch some cocoa nuts, but they had 
 scarcely left the ship's side, when one of them discharged an arrow, by 
 which, however, no person was wounded. 
 
 Two more islands were seen on the 5th, and, as the wood and water 
 were expended, and disease reigning aboard, the commodore resolved to 
 land here, and on the following afternoon the ships came to an anchor. 
 
 Two huts were discovered on the bank of a rivulet, not far from the 
 encampment, and a boat, near which were seen the remains of fires, some 
 calcined shells, and the skeletons of some animals' heads, which were 
 taken for those of the wild boar. Some fresh bananas were found, which 
 proves that the natives had but lately left the place. An extraordinary 
 incident occurred. A seaman, looking for shells, found a plate of lead 
 buried in the sand, on which the following letters were very visible : 
 
 HOR'D HERE 
 ICK MAJESTY'S 
 
 The mark of the nails with which the lead had been fastened appeared ; 
 and It IS plam, that the natives must have torn off the plate and broken it. 
 This gave rise to a diligent search, and, at about six miles from the watering 
 place, the very spot was found where some Enghsh ship had been before. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 24th a favourable breeze enabled the ships to 
 get out to sea. Bougainville remarks, that this country must be New 
 Britain, and that the great bay must be the same which Dampier calls 
 St. George's Bay ; but that he had the happiness to land on a part of it 
 where his wants could be supplied by the inhabitants. 
 
 On the 3l8t a number of Indian boats attacked the Etoile with a volley 
 of stones and arrows ; but a single discharge of the musketry got rid of 
 these troublesome companions. On the 4th of August two islands were 
 seen, which are conjectured to be the same which Dampier distinguishes 
 by the names of Matthias and Stormy, or Squally Island. On the 5th a 
 third island was seen, and then the northern point of New Britain, which 
 lies only 41 minutes south of the land. On the 7ih a flat island was seen, 
 covered with trees, abounding with cocoa nuts, and certainly well inhabited, 
 as appeared from the great number of houses that were seen on the shore! 
 l-ishing boats m multitudes surrounding the island; but the fishermen 
 took no notice of the ships. This received the name of the Island of 
 Anchorets. From this lime till the end of the month innumerable small 
 islands were observed every day ; the boat having landed on two islands, 
 which neither produced any fruits, nor appeared to be cultivated, and in- 
 dicated no signs of being inhabited, the ship was on the point of return- 
 ing, when an Indian rowed up to the ship's boat, without expressing the 
 ^ast sign of fear or astonishment. The Frenchmen intimated, that they 
 wanted food and liquor ; on which he presented them with a kind of meal 
 and some water; m return for which they gave him a looking-glass, a 
 
218 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 handkerchief, and some other trifles, which he received with indifference, 
 and 'anghed at the donors. It was conjectured that this negro had de- 
 serted from one of the adjacent islands which have been settled by the 
 Dutch. Tli€ number of them were formerly seven, but they are novv 
 reduced to five by earthquakes. The crew of the Boudeuse took a turtle 
 on this sp&t of not less than 200 weight. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 31st our voyagers had sight of the Island 
 of ('eram, which runs in a parallel east and west, abounds in lofty moun- 
 tains, and is panly cleared and partly in its original state. At midnight 
 a number of fires attracted their attention to the Island of Boero, where 
 there is a Dutch factory, at the entrance of the Gulf of Cajeli, which 
 the French had sight of at daybreak. Their joy on this occasion is not 
 to be expressed ; for at this time not half of the seamen were able to per- 
 form any duty, and the scurvy had raged so violently, that no man on 
 board wa» perfectly clear of it. What few provisions were on board were 
 absolutely rotten, and stunk intolerably. 
 
 The astonishment of Aotourou, at this first sight of an European set- 
 tlement, may be more easily conceived than described. He regarded 
 every object with an intenseness of curiosity scarcely to be satisfied ; 
 but he was particularly charmed with the hospitality of tlie Dutch. He 
 supposed everything freely given, as he did not see anything returned by 
 way of barter. Bougainville says, he behaved sensibly with respect to 
 the Dutch, to whom he intimated of the consequence he was in his own 
 country, and that his present voyage was merely pleasurable, with friends 
 whom he esteemed. His constant practice was to imitate the manners 
 of the French, both in their visits and rural amusements. The knees of 
 this Indian being distorted, he attributed to that circumstance his not 
 being taken with the commodore on his first visit to the resident, and 
 actually desired some of the seamen to press their weight on his knees,, 
 to make them straight. 
 
 They sailed on the 7th of September, and on the 13th the ships were 
 surrounded with Indian boats, bringing parroquets, cockatoes, fowls, eggs, 
 and bananas, which the natives sold for Dutch money, or exchanged for 
 knives. These people were inhabitants of a considerable district on the 
 mountains of Button, opposite the place where the ships lay at anchor. 
 On this spot the land is cleared and cultivated, the property of different 
 persons being divided by ditches. Some of the fields are enclosed by 
 hedges, and there are houses in these fields ; besides which there are 
 several villages. 
 
 By daylight, on the 19th, they were within about a league of the coast 
 of Celebes, which in this part is described as one of the finest countries 
 in the world. Inamense herds of cattle graze on the plains, which are 
 adorned with groves, while the coast is one continued plantation of the 
 cocoa nut tree. The plains are in most places cultivated and covered 
 with houses, while the maintains behind them add dignity and ornament 
 to the whole picture. On the morning of the 26th the coast of Java ap- 
 peared with the rising sun. Having come to anchor for the night, the 
 ships sailed early in the morning of the 27th, and on the following night 
 came to an anchor, in fear of having past the port of Batavia ; but having 
 sight of that town on the morning, they sailed into, and soon anchored in 
 the road, happy to have, after so many toils, difficulties, and dangers, 
 reached a spot which they conceived would soon put a period to all their 
 misfortunes, by ensuring them a safe arrival in Europe. 
 
 The ships sailed thence on the 16lh of October, 1768. and cleared the 
 
M. DE PAGES. 219 
 
 Straits of Sunda on the 19th, in the afternoon. By this time the crew 
 were all perfectly recovered of the scurvy, but a few remained ill of 
 the bloody-fiux. On the 20th the ships were in sight of the Isle of 
 France, and on the 8th of November the Boudeuse anchored in the port 
 of that island ; the Eioile, which had been unavoidably left behind, an- 
 choring in the same port on the following day. 
 
 They sailed from this the 12lh of December, 1768, leaving the Etoile 
 behind them, to undergo some necessary repairs. Without encountering 
 any singular accident, they had sight of the Cape of Good Hope on the 
 18th of°January, and came to an anchor in Table Bay on the following 
 morning. Bougainville quitted this on the 17th, anchored off St. Helena 
 on the 4th of February, where he remained till the 6th ; and on the 25th 
 joined the Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret. Nothing material 
 happened from this time till they had sight of the Isle of Ushant, when a 
 violent squall of wmd had nearly blasted the hopes of the voyage. On 
 the 15th the commodore bore away for St. Maloes, which he entered on 
 the following day, after an absence of two years and four months from his 
 native country ; during all which time he had buried only seven of his 
 crew, a circumstance that will be deemed truly astonishing, when we 
 reflect on the variety of dangers they had encountered and the amazing 
 changes of climate they had experienced. 
 
 M. DE PAGES— 1767-71. 
 
 M. DE Pages having found an opportunity of gratifying his predilec- 
 tion for travelling, and of realizing some of the schemes he had formed, 
 embarked at Rochfort, in 1766, for the Island of St. Domingo ; and after 
 despatching his business there, sailed from Cape Francjois, in a French 
 vessel bound for New Orleans, on the last day of June, 1767. 
 
 On the 28th of July they anchored opposite to New Orleans, about 
 thirty leagues from the mouth of the river. The harbour is large and 
 commodious. The houses here are built of brick, and some of the public 
 structures are e.vtremely handsome. The complexion of the people is 
 fair ; they are personally robust, and in character cheerful and manly. 
 The popalation, however, is not very considerable ; for many planters and 
 merchants disperse themselves up the country, and only visit the capital 
 during their intervals of industry and traffic. M. de Pag6s, having re- 
 covered a little from his fatigues, began to make inquiries respecting 
 the practicability of travelling by land to New Spain ; and learning that 
 the last French settlement, named Nachitoches, was only seven leagues 
 distant from the first Spanish port of Ada^s, he resolved to undertake this 
 perilous journey. 
 
 At the distance of eighty leagues from the entrance of the Mississippi 
 they arrived at the confluence of the Red River, up which they sailed, 
 and bid adieu to the noble scenery which had so long charmed their sight. 
 This stream was comparatively languid and mean ; the woods appeared 
 dwarfish, and the soil ungenial. The port of Adaes consists of about 
 forty mean huts, constructed of stakes driven into the ground. There is 
 a kind of fort, called the Presidio ; and at a little distance stand a church 
 and a convent of Franciscans. According to the best information M. de 
 Pages could receive, Mexico was distant no less than 550 leagues. Thus 
 precluded from proceeding, unless he could form a kind of caravan, our 
 traveller accidentally heard that the governor of the province, who was 
 
220 VOYAGES ROUND THE W0RLJ3. 
 
 recalled to Mexico, at that time lay ill, about fifty leagues distant, at a 
 place called Naquadoch. This gentleman he resolved to join, and throw 
 himself on his protection. On his arrival he soon recovered his health, 
 and had the pleasure to meet with a kind reception from the governor. 
 I'hey set out on the 2d of November, being in all fifteen persons, with 
 many mules and horses. In the province of Tegas, particularly on the 
 banks of its rivers, grow noble forests of oaks and cypresses, which, 
 singly viewed, have often a very picturesque appearance. Roebucks 
 weie seen in flocks ; and, unawed by man, every animal seemed to con- 
 sider itself ii6 the denizen and the master of the soil ; even the birds, 
 which are naturally timid, perched on the backs of the mules. On the 
 last day of November they arrived in safety at the settlement of San 
 Antonio, having travelled 250 leagues. 
 
 On the 20th of January, 1768, they arrived at Sartille, 160 leagues 
 distant from San Antonio. This is a pretty large and populous town, 
 occupied both by Indians and Spaniards. The churches and squares are 
 not inelegant, and she streets are broad and clean. A number of mer- 
 chants have fixed their residence here, because it is the chief mart foi 
 Indian productions. The Spaniards, under an aflfectation of generosity, 
 are both illiberal and selfish ; in short, they have all the pride and state- 
 liness of Castile, without the noble and generous qualities of the genuine 
 Spaniard. Here, for the first time in his travels, our author met with 
 excellent wheaten bread. The gardens too produce many of the Euro- 
 pean fruits and vegetables ; and the climate seems to be one of the most 
 delightful in the world. 
 
 On the 10th of February they continued their journey ; and, as they 
 were now entering on a country liberally supplied with all the neces- 
 saries of life, they were relieved from the barthen of carrying their pro- 
 visions. On the second day of his journey he arrived at the celebrated 
 mines of Potosi, near which is a handsome, well-built town of the same 
 name, s-urrounded by beautiful gardens. The streets are well laid out, 
 the public buildings magnificent, and the people opulent. But the In- 
 dians seemed grievously oppressed throughout the whole province ; and 
 seem reluctantly to bear their yoke. The surrounding country is full 
 of mineral riches, and still there is a great deal of real, though concealed, 
 poverty ; for the facility with which money is acquired induce habits of 
 dissipation, which lead to distress. 
 
 Soon after leaving this pJace, our traveller ascended mountains of 
 considerable elevation ; and for three days saw nothing but large com- 
 modious villages, that intimated his approach to the capital, which he 
 descried from the heights on the 2Sth of February, and the same day 
 had the pleasure to enter Mexico. It is well known that this superb 
 city stands in the centre of an extensive lake, connected with the main 
 land by causeways, raised to a great height above thejevel of the water. 
 The causeway by which our traveller entered the capital was at least 100 
 feet broad and three miles long. It rests on a series of arches, kept in 
 excellent repair, which give a free passage to the briny waters of the 
 lake. The city of Mexico is about six leagues in circumference, and is 
 defended only by barriers in the form of turnpike gates. The streets in 
 general are broad, run in straight lines, and are adorned with elegant 
 houses, three or four stories high. The public buildings are most mag- 
 nificent ; and the walks, squares, and gardens are delightful. 
 
 After staying here three weeks, in expectation of some baggage coming 
 up, and finding that it was delayed by the illness of a person to whosa 
 
M. DE PAGES. 221 
 
 care it was intrusted, M. de Pag6s resolved rather to proceed without it, 
 than lose the chance of the galleon's sailing from Acapulco. Accord- 
 ingly ho set out on the 38lh of March, with no other companion than 
 two mules. His impatience to get to the end of his journey was so 
 great, that he overlooked losses and inconveniences. Acapulco is a 
 miserable little place, though dignified with the name of a city ; and, 
 being surrounded with volcanic mountains, its atmosphere is constantly 
 thick and unwholesome. The harbour, however, is safe, beautiful, and 
 extensive : and being the ordinary port for the Manilla galleon, it derives 
 an importance from this circumstance, which has rendered it famous over 
 all the world. During the time that our traveller sojourned here, they 
 had three slight shocks of an earthquake. At first he perceived the 
 ground to tremble under him, and heard a noise like the rattling of a 
 carriage over a rough pavement. Being then half asleep, he did not 
 immediately guess the cause ; but he was soon completely awakened by 
 the screams of women and children, who ran about the streets pouring 
 forth their prayers, and exclaming, in one voice, " Ave Maria ! Ave 
 Maria Santissima !" 
 
 On the 2d of April, 1768, they set sail on their passage to Manilla. 
 The ship was only of 500 tons burthen, and was so crowded as to present 
 an idea of horrid confusion. Each common sailor was allowed a couple 
 of servants ; consequently, the domestics were much more numerous 
 than their masters ; and, being all without order and discipline, gave 
 occasion to terrible uproar. Having reached the thirteenth degree of 
 latitude, they stood to the south-west with a faint breeze. During the 
 night they had frequent lightning, accompanied with loud claps of thun- 
 der. Soon after, the wind freshening, the sky became clear, and the 
 rate of their sailing was accelerated, with the finest weather and the 
 most beautiful sea that could be conceived. Nothing particular occurred 
 during the voyage for many days. On the 9th of June they discovered 
 the high mountains of Guam, one of the Marian Isles, and came to an 
 anchor the following day off that island, opposite a small fort. This fort 
 is three leagues from the principal town, which is of some extent, and 
 the ordinary residence of the governor. 
 
 Having taken in fresh water and provisions, they put to sea again on 
 the 1.5th of June. Hitherto their passage had been extremely favoura- 
 ble, and they were now only 100 leagues from the Philippine Islands ; 
 but here the sky became suddenly overcast, and the weather rough and 
 tempestuous. On the 17th the storm abated, when they found they had 
 been carried greatly to the northward of their course, as it was a month 
 since they had been able to take an observation. After a dead calm, and 
 another storm of five days' duration, at last they came in view of Cape 
 Spiritu Santo ; and having still a very dangerous passage of 100 leagues 
 to Manilla, it was determined to winter on the Isle of Samar, where they 
 anchored in the spacious road of Palapa, formed by three small islands, 
 on the 1st of August. 
 
 Samar is blessed with such a fertile soil, that it rewards the industry 
 of the husbandman at least forty-fold. Besides other grain, it produces 
 a considerable quantity of rice. The common food, however, of the 
 natives is potatoes, yams, and a root named gaby. Agreeably to the 
 example of the Indians, our traveller lived entirely on roots, whose 
 saccharine taste is more pleasant, and their qualities more nutritious, than 
 the uniform use of insipid boiled rice. At first, this kind of food seemed 
 heavy and fiatulent ; but soon became familiar to the stomach. He had, 
 
 19* 
 
222 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 likewise, plenty of pork for his consvimption, and sometimes eggs ; be« 
 sides a variety of delicious fruits, among which the cocoa nut bore dis- 
 tinguished pre-eminence. The common salute between the sexes, and 
 of affection among relations, is here preceded by a gentle aspiration of 
 incense on that part of the face to which the lips are meant to be applied. 
 The women wear an apron, which, after passing several times round the 
 v/aist, falls down to the toe ; and some of them have a petticoat so very 
 thin and transparant, that modesty obliges them to tuck up a corner of it in 
 their girdle, by which one leg is exposed. Their shift ia shorter than 
 that of the men ; but their head-dress is not very different, except that 
 they roll their hair high on the crown. 
 
 Though they had been favoured with many intervals of fine weather, 
 the wind v/as not propitious for their sailing till the end of September. 
 On the 7th of October, having got everything on board, they st(3ered for 
 Manilla. In passing the Straits of San Bernardino, they found a most 
 rapid current, attended with whirlpools ; but the direction of the stream 
 being generally in their favoui:, and the wind increasing, they made a 
 pretty rapid progress. Pursuing their course, and passing several islands, 
 on the 15th of October they anchored in Port Oavite, to the north-east 
 of the Bay of Manilla. Cavite is the harbour chiefly frequented by the 
 king's ships, while in' the Philippine Isles. It is formed by a tongue of 
 land, on which stands an arsenal defended by excellent batteries of great 
 extent. The town of this port is named St. Rocb, and is well peopled 
 with Indians, who make active sailors and useful workmen. It stands 
 about two leagues from Manilla. 
 
 The city of Manilla is of considerable extent ; the streets are hand- 
 some, and the houses are built in a convenient style. The inhabitants 
 of the first distinction are affluent, and the generality are in easy circum- 
 stances. The taste for expense, luxury, and debauchery, however, is 
 much less strong than in the Spanish American settlements. The gay, 
 simple, and ingenuous manners of the Indians seem to have in some 
 measure subdued the haughty and arrogant temper of the Spaniard ; and 
 an amiable example, to have been copied with a good effect by the 
 Christians. The river which forms the harbour for trading ships, flows 
 tinder the city walls, and separates Manilla from the town of St. Croix. 
 This last is almost equally well built with the capital, and is populous in 
 Indians and Spaniards. At a small distance on the opposite bank of the 
 river, on the same side with Manilla, are several considerable towns, 
 chiefly occupied by the natives. Few merchants or mechanics reside 
 within the walls of Manilla. The great seat of manufacture, and the 
 emporium of merchandise, is Parian, on the farther side of the river, 
 which is pretty well built, and principally inhabited by the industrious 
 Chinese. Among the inhabitants of Manilla are Armenian merchants, 
 Malays, natives of the Malabar coast, and of the kingdom of Siam, 
 besides a few .Japanese, who have been accidentally thrown on the coast, 
 and have fixed their residence here. It is a law of the empire of 
 Japan, that no subject shall sail out of the sight of land under pain of 
 death ; hence, such as happen to be forced by the violence of the wind 
 and weather to a different shore, renounce every idea of ever returning 
 to their native land. With an extreme deference for their superiors, 
 they are brave, sober, and intelligent. In their deportment they are 
 brave and sedate ; hardy and robust in their persons ; and, though capa- 
 ble of enduring the severest toil, are little disposed to submit to more 
 than they can well avoid. 
 
H. DE PAGES, 22a 
 
 As there was no ship to sail from Mauilla sooner than that which was 
 bound for Batavia, M. de Pag6s chose to embrace this opportunity of 
 resuming his travels ; and accordingly sailed from Manilla on the 7th of 
 March, 1789, on board a small vessel bound for Batavia ; and, without 
 any remarkable occurrence, anchored in that road on the 15th of April. 
 
 M. de Pages found much entertainment in rambling about the streets 
 of Batavia, each of which presents the gay and pleasant effects of a 
 beautiful promenade. On either side is a regular row of houses, veneered 
 with a sort of tessellated bricks. Along the sides of each house, two 
 or three steps from the ground, runs a terrace, which is separated from 
 the adjoining building by benches, and covered with tents or booths, for 
 the accommodation of the proprietor and his friends. Beneath this ter- 
 race is a space six or seven feet wide, paved with flag-stones, which 
 forms a path for foot passengers. Contiguous to this is a much larger 
 space, covered with fine sand and gravel for carriages ; and, last of all, 
 appears a row of bushy evergreens, cut in fan form, which lines each 
 side of a canal of running water, about thirty yards wide. 
 
 They set sail on the 2d of August, 1769, and doubling Bantam, they 
 entered the Straits of Sunda. The wind soon proving unfavourable, and 
 provisions growing short, it was first proposed to put into Rajapour, on 
 the main land : but the wind afterward shifting to their wish, they held 
 on their course for Bombay, and soon anchored off that island. The 
 ship having despatched her business, our traveller continued his voyage 
 in her to Surat, where they arrived on the 7th of September. This is a 
 very large and beautiful road, but much exposed to winds, and too remote 
 from the land to be commodious. 
 
 M. de Pag6s proceeded, on the 6th of December, by the way of 
 Bassan, to Salset, an island in the vicinity of Bombay, from which it is 
 separated by a small channel. This is a very pleasant spot, though the 
 soil is not fertile. The blossoms of various fruits and flowers perfume the 
 air ; and at Pary, near the centre of the island, where our author took up his 
 abode, no situation could be more delightfully rural. Here he formed 
 an acquaintance with several Bramins, from whom he received, in many 
 instances, much kindness and civility. Having made a considerable stay 
 on this island, about the end of January, 1770, having learned that a 
 French vessel had anchored at Surat, he was desirous to embrace this 
 opportunity of writing to his friends in Europe. Departing, therefore, 
 from Salset, in five days he arrived at Danou, whence it was easy to have 
 letters conveyed to Surat. As he returned by Bassan, he had a second 
 opportunity of contemplating with admiration the simple, but civilized, 
 manners of the natives. In the genius of the people, however, are cer- 
 tain shades of difference, chiefly arising from the variety of religious 
 opinions, or the diversity of origin. The Portuguese are vain and mso- 
 lent ; the Mahometans, with all their simplicity, are prone to pride, and 
 a haughty opinion of themselves : while the Gentoos, and particularly 
 the Bramins, are unaffectedly simple, gentle, regular, and temperate. 
 
 M. de Pag6s observes, that though all public offices centre in the 
 Bramins, they are peculiarly affable and condescending, and appear to bo 
 perfectly unacquainted with the meaning of " the insolence of office," a 
 phrase so well understood in Europe. The different chambers of admi- 
 nistration, as well as the courts of justice, are open to the inspection of 
 the public ; while those who preside in them are equally accessible to 
 the lowest as the highest. 
 
 On the 20th ai April they set sail for Bassora, in company with aa 
 
224 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 English armed vessel, that protected them through the gulf which i« 
 much infested by pirates. In thirteen days they dropped anchor at 
 Mascate, which lies without the Straits of Ormus, and, consequently, is 
 a favourable situation for trade. Hence it serves as an em^pcrium for 
 the commerce of India and Persia. M. de Pag6s took this opportunity 
 of going ashore, where he met with a native of Ispahan, who acted as 
 agent for French affairs in this city. The houses are miserably built, 
 but the number of fine gardens gives the place a cheerful appearance 
 High and almost inaccessible mountains surround it, and a handful of 
 men may guard the access by land against a whole army. The iman of 
 this kingdom affects to be the only genuine descendant of Mahomet. He 
 possesses an extensive territory, and lives in great splendour in his capi- 
 lal, about five days' journey from Mascate. 
 
 Bassora is subject, under the grand seignior, to the Bashaw of Bagh- 
 dad : who, however, possesses but a very limited authority, and finds it 
 expedient to exercise much discretion in his conduct both to the Curds 
 and Arabians. The English possess the greatest part of the Bassora 
 trade ; and as the Arabs, who compose the bulk of the inhabitants, are 
 little civilized, and as the Turks might be inimical to their interests, they 
 have had the address, under various pretexts, to get 500 national troops . 
 stationed ashore ; and as their ships lie at anchor within gun-shot of the 
 town, they are in a condition to overawe the inhabitants on any emergency 
 that may render their interference requisite. In the exercise, however, 
 of a most extensive commerce, the English have discovered the good 
 policy of appearing open and liberal in their transactions with strangers, 
 and, as merchants, are deservedly esteemed. M. de Pages having waited 
 on the French consul on the 25th of June, was politely received by him. 
 Learning that a caravan had set out for Aleppo only fifteen days before, 
 he saw with regret the opportunity he had lost of crossing the desert, 
 and feared lest he should be detained here for a long space before the 
 departure of an other. His fears, however, were of no long duration. 
 A caravan of Bedouins, or Arabian shepherds, on their way to Aleppo, 
 were now approaching the town ; and having sent to inquire if any 
 passengers were desirous to take the advantage of their protection, the 
 Frerith consul obligingly equipped M. de Pages for tJiis expedition ; who, 
 having assumed the Turkish habit, and made his best acknowledgments 
 to his beneficent countrymen, he departed, after being no more than three 
 days in Bassora. 
 
 The wealth of an Arab consists in his flocks and his herds. His horses, 
 and particularly his mares, are of great value ; and, as he is fond of 
 horsemanship, they are his greatest favourites. An Arabian horse feeds 
 only once a day, and then moderately, and at the same time that he is 
 one of the fleetest animals in the world, he is also one of the most ab- 
 stemious. The camel, though less valued, is of no less consequence to 
 his master. He serves to transport his family and property from one part 
 of the desert to another, and besides is an article of traffic for grain and 
 other necessaries of life. As the general aspect of the desert is that of 
 a vast plain, bounded on all sides by the horizon, in vain does the roving 
 eye of the traveller seek to rest on some intervening object ; and, there- 
 fore, after flitting over a dismal waste of gray sand and scorched bram- 
 bles, it returns at last, languid and fatigued, to enjoy a little relaxation in 
 a variety of herds and other Arabian property with which it is surrounded. 
 A deep and mournful silence reigns over the dreary landscape ; neither 
 beast, bird, nor insecS is seen to diversify the sad unifprmity of the scene. 
 
k. DB PAaEfl. 225 
 
 Aft^r three days' farther progress, toward evening, they descrifevl about 
 kwelve Arabs with a number of camels. The chief of the caravan, 
 tempted perhaps by the smallness of the party, ordered his men to give 
 chase ; and in their flight they dropped some linen, bottles, and clubs. 
 This exploit was by no means agreeable to M. de Pages ; he reflected on 
 the probable consequences of it — he f»lt for its injustice. The night, 
 however, passed without molestation, and next morning they resumed 
 their journey ; but about noon, on a sudden, they saw a body of armed 
 men nding full speed toward them. The Bedouins stopped their camels^ 
 and entered into a conference with a messenger, who came to treat with 
 them on the part of the enemy. ]Vo agreement, however, could be made ; 
 the Arab returned to his friends, and the people of the caravan flew to arms. 
 
 The enemy advanced in order of battle, to the number of 500 men, 
 while the force on our traveller's side consisted only of 150. The Be- 
 douins, however,' waited their approach with steadiness and resolution, 
 shouting Alia ou Alia ! an invocation to God to witness the justice of 
 their cause. A running fight soon commented ; while the Arabs, trust- 
 ing to their numbers, seemed disposed to surround the caravan, and de- 
 clined coming to close quarters. 
 
 The engagement continued to be maintained in this indecisive manner 
 till the approach of night, when the main body of the enemy, retiring to 
 a considerable distance from the caravan, gave the musketeers an oppor- 
 tunity of closing their ranks. On the side of the Bedouins, none were 
 killed nor wounded ; while they boasted of having killed some men and 
 camels belonging to the enemy. 
 
 In a short time many fires were lighted up by the Bedouins, and they 
 began to form themselves into circles, and to whisper to each other. Our 
 traveller conceived that some secret enterprise was in agitation ; and in 
 a short time they began to saddle their camels ; while his conductor gave 
 him notice of the intended flight, and advised him to abandon the most 
 weighty part of his provisions, and to stick fast to his diomedary. After 
 riding with all their might three leagues, a party of seven persons, of 
 whom M. de Pages was one, happening to be together, resolved to detach 
 themselves entirely from the scattered remains of the caravan ; and what 
 became of the rest he never knew. By making a large circuit round the 
 region they had just traversed, they resumed their former direction with- 
 out seeing any more of their friends or enemies. After a short halt in the 
 evening, the Bedouins judged it necessary to proceed, and the following 
 morning they discovered the banks of the Euphrates, on which stood a 
 solitary building ; but suddenly observing a company of Arabs> they turn- 
 ed the heads of their camels, and fled full speed. Next day having 
 rested in some hollows, they continued their journey along the sides of the 
 hills as soon as it was dusk, from the dread of falling in with the natives. 
 This caution proved extremely fortunate ; for next morning, having 
 gained the first ridge, and looking down upon the plain, they saw it 
 crowded with Arabian camps, aad could not help congratulating them- 
 selves on their escape. 
 
 Harassed by marches and countermarches, by fear, fatigue, and want, 
 our traveller had such a confusion of ideas, that he could not ascertain 
 the situation of the place near which they were ; but thought it corres- 
 ponded most with that of the^ ancient city of Damascus. 
 
 This town is large and populous. The houses toward the streets 
 make but an indifferent appearance ; but have a handsome garden frout. 
 The city contains manufactures of ditTerent kinds, and tlie markets are 
 
S^S tdYAGES ROUND THE tVORLf). 
 
 elegant and well supplied. The district inhabited by the Christians is 
 mean, and in every respect inferior to the other quarters of the town. 
 The great trade and population of Damascus, as well as the high vene- 
 ration it holds among the Mussulmen, originate from its being the place 
 of rendezvous for the Mahometan pilgrims of Europe, and part of Syria, 
 on their way to Mecca ; henc^ it has been dignified v/ith the title of 
 Mahomet's Heel. 
 
 This caravan is conducted by the Bashaw of Damascus, who receives 
 a considerable sum from the Porte on this account, as well as to main- 
 tain the military force, and to keep certain castles in the desert in repair. 
 At fixed stations the caravan of Damascus is joined by the pilgrims from 
 Bagdad and Cairo, who all arrive at Mecca, either at the solemnity of 
 Courban Beyran, or Abraham's Sacrifice ; or at the end of Ramadan, 
 corresponding to the Jewish passover. The Jesuits of Damascus were 
 kind and attentive to M. de Pages to the last degree ; and in a city where 
 the people are uncommonly cruel and ferocious, and which, properly 
 speaking, does not contain one resident European, their hospitality was 
 the more gratefully felt. At his departure, after passing nearly a week 
 in Damascus, these good fathers furnished him with a guide to Baruth,- 
 on the borders of the Mediterranean. 
 
 They arrived at Baruth about nine in the morning, when M. de Pag6^ 
 went to a convent of Capuchin friars, from whom he received a hearty 
 welcome. The superior of this convent gave our traveller all the infor- 
 mation he wanted respecting his route to Quesrouan, a district of Ijeba- 
 non, which he was inclined to visit ; and after two day's stay at Baruth, 
 in which city Christians and Mahometans live on friendly terms, he con- 
 tinued his journey. 
 
 The impregnable situation of the country of Quesrouan has naturally 
 pointed it out as an asylum for all the professors of Christianity and Asia- 
 tic Turkey ; and hence it has become the residence of many bishops, and 
 the seat of a considerable number of convents for both sexes. Among 
 the former are the patriarch of the Greek church ; the patriarch of An- 
 tioch, who presides over the sect of the Maronites ; and the patriarch of 
 Armenia, who superintends several convents, under the rule of his own 
 ritual. The people, in general, are addicted to religion ; vice and im- 
 morality are little known among them. Though the women are not 
 secluded from public view, chastity is so highly esteemed, that an un- 
 married female, who happens to become pregnant, is sure to be sacrificed' 
 by tha hands of her own relations ; and a family would consider itself as* 
 dishonoured, should the person who marries a daughter out of it be un- 
 able to produce proofs of his bride's virginity. Desirous of seeing the 
 manners of a people so little visited in their true and genuine colours, 
 our traveller, having spent a few days at Jelton, set out in his route to 
 Misra, a village lying at the foot of the highest mountain in Quesrouan. 
 The country through which he passed was highly picturesque, and many 
 spots were eminently beautiful. After ascending and descending several 
 hills, studded with mulberry trees, and finely cultivated spots, he at lasS 
 arrived at Mafra, an open village of considerable extent. 
 
 Quitting this village, he directed his course again to Baruth, which he 
 reached aftec an absence of ten days, which time he had spent in ex- 
 ploring the mountains of Quesrouan. The -friar of the Capuchin convent 
 received hun with cordiality, and informed him that a king's xebec, which 
 had arrived from France, on a cruise oflf the coast of Syria, v/as expected 
 hi a few days to enter the port of Sidon, about eight leagues distant. On 
 
k. DE PAGES. 22? 
 
 ^his information, M. de Pag^s immediately set out for that port, and, on 
 the 25th of August, waited oh the French consul there, who received 
 him with the most marked attention ; but he had the mortification to find 
 that the xebec had already sailed tor Candia. Disappointed in his views, 
 he now resolved to proceed to Acre, where he expected frequent 
 opportunities of sailing for France ; but it seems his fame as a traveller 
 had preceded him, and the French consul, after many inquiries concern- 
 ing his late expeditions, pressed him to stay with him a little longer, to 
 recruit his health, which was considerably broken by fatigue. The con- 
 isul's lady joined in the same request. 
 
 The natives of these mountains are extremely disaffected to the Turks. 
 They are sensible it is to their own bravery, and the inaccessible nature 
 of their mountains, that they owe their happy independence. The Druses 
 are well affected toward the Christians in general ; but holding them- 
 selves descended from a French ancestry, who are said to have taken 
 refuge in this district after their expulsion from the Holy Land, they 
 have more than a common regard for the natives of that country. The 
 principles indeed which, according to their historians, actuated the sub- 
 jects of the old man of the mountain, still influence the minds of some 
 individuals. The industrious character of the natives displays itself in 
 Ihe cultivated state of their mountains, many parts of which present the 
 face of a fine garden. Springs, judiciously directed, water their mulberry 
 plantations, which constitute the wealth of the country. Such is the 
 superior quality and high value of the silk raised here, that the farmer 
 obtains from his mulberry tree, at little expense and labour, a comforta- 
 ble subsistence for his family. 
 
 M. de Pages now paid a visit to the town of Dairel-Kamar, situated 
 on the banks of the Thamour, on the side of a mountain. The palaces, 
 or seraglios, belonging to the emirs of the reigning family, are fine build- 
 ings ; the churches are handsome, and constructed with good taste ; and 
 the mansions of some of the sheiks and commandants have large and 
 commodious appartments ; but the generality of the buildings are mean. 
 The Druses do not exceed one-half of the inhabitants, while the remain- 
 der are Maronites, or Greek Christians. Some of the institutions among 
 the Druses are very singular. A mountaineer is never seen without the 
 walls of his cottage unarmed ; and, by the maxims of a law which cus- 
 tom has established, a man has a right to repel force by force, and to 
 redress bis wrongs in the best manner he can ; and, therefore, whoever 
 considers himself as insulted, despatches his antagonist the moment he 
 finds an opportunity. This is certainly a deplorable laxity of govern- 
 ment. Again, a man who gives his daughter in marriage to any but one 
 of his own relations, is considered as bringing a reproach on himself and 
 his tribe ; and the consequences are sometimes fatal. Families of the 
 same blood entertain the most clannish attachment ; insomuch, that who- 
 erer offers an affront to one, is held to be in a state of hostility with the 
 whole tribe. Hence many acts of violence arise ; and the offender has 
 no other means of security than by putting himself under the protection 
 of some chief, who, under the mask of hdspitality, shelters him from the 
 pursuit of his enemies. 
 
 M. de Pag^s now made a second visit to his friend, the pastor of 
 Mafra, taking Aintoura and Jelton in his way. He was everywhere 
 received with kindness and hospitality ; and having now made a consi- 
 derable stay in this part of Asia, and being desirous of passing into 
 £urop6, he proceeded directly to St. Jean d'Acre, a port much iret^uented 
 
228 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLO- 
 
 by the trading ships of Marseilles. Finding a vessel there, he set sail /of 
 Marseilles in the end of June, 1771 ^ when they bore away for Cvprus, which 
 having coasted^ they stretched to the northward, to catch the breeze from 
 that quarter^ which they fell in with on the coast of Caramania. 
 
 On the 15th of October they came to an anchor at the Isle of Malta, 
 where our traveller met several French frigates, and on board them some of 
 his old companions, whose friendship was not abated by his long absence. 
 Having afterward touched at Tunis on some business, they again got 
 under sail ; but being retarded by contrary winds, they did not reach 
 Palma, in Sardinia, till the 27th of November. Remaining here for a 
 few days, they proceeded on their voyage, and on the 5th of December, 
 1771, M. de Pages, with gratitude to Providence for his preservation to 
 the end of his travels, again set his foot on his native soil. 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK.— 1768-^1771. 
 
 Mr. Banks, a gentleman of considerable fortune in Lincolnshire, v/as 
 induced to undertake this voyage from curiosity and an invincible desire 
 of attaining knowledge. He engaged his friend Dr. Solander, a Swede, 
 to accompany him in this voyage. Mr. Banks also took with him two 
 draughtsmen, and had besides a secretary and four servants. Lieutenant 
 James Cook was to command the expedition. 
 
 On the 26th of August, 1768, the Endeavour sailed from Plymouth , 
 the Islands of Puerto, Santo, and Madeira were discovered on the 12th 
 of September, and the next day they anchored in Fonchial road. Ths 
 Endeavour sailed thence September the 19th, On the 22d they saw the 
 Islands of Salvages, northward of the Canaries. The chief of these 
 islands was about five leagues to the south one-half west. These islands 
 appear to lie in latitude 30 degrees 1 1 minutes north. The 23d saw thu 
 Peak of Teneriffe, bearing west by south. This mountain is near 
 15,400 feet high. On the 29th perceived Bona Vista, one of the Cape 
 de Verde Islands, lying in latitude 16 degrees north, and longitude 21 
 degrees 48 minutes west. On the 13th of November made sail for the 
 harbour of Rio-de-Janeiro. Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant, was sent 
 before in the pinnace to the city, to inform the governor they put in 
 there for refreshments and water, and to obtain a pilot. Captain Cook ' 
 went on shore on the 14th, and obtained leave to purchase provisions ; 
 and having requested that the gentlemen on board might remain on shore 
 •while they sojourned, and that Mr. Banks might go up the country to 
 collect plants, these requests were peremptorily refused. 
 
 December the 8th, 1768, having procured all necessary supphes, they 
 left Rio-de-Janeiro. On the 14th of January entered the Strait of Le 
 Maire ; but the tide being against them, were driven out with great vio- 
 lence, and the waves ran so high, that the ship's bowsprit was frequently 
 under water ; at length, however, they got anchorage at the entrance of 
 a little cove, which Captain Cook called St. Vincent's Bay. 
 
 Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander set out from the ship on the 16th, with 
 the design of going into the country, and returning in the evening. Ha- 
 ving entered a wood, they ascended the hill through a pathless wilderness 
 till the afternoon. The morning had been very fine, but the weather now 
 became cold and disagreeable ; the blasts of wind were very piercing, 
 and a shower of snow fell. Mr. Buchan, one of the draughtsmen, fell 
 into a fit. It was absolutely necessary to stop and kindle a fire, and such 
 
JAMES COOHi 329 
 
 fig wefe most fatigued remained to assist him ; but Messrs. Banks, So- 
 lander, Green, and Monkhouse, proceeded and attained the spot they had 
 in view. Upon returning, they found Mr. Buchan much recovered. 
 They had previously sent Mr. Monkhouse and Mr. Green back to him 
 and the others, in order to bring them to a hill, which was conjectured 
 to lie in a better track for returning to the wood. The whole party met 
 there at eight in the evening. Dr. Solander having often passed moun- 
 tains in cold countries, was sensible that extreme cold, when joined with 
 fatigue, occasions a drowsiness that is not easily resisted ; he accord- 
 ingly entreated his friends to keep in motion, however disagreeable it 
 might be to them ; his words were, " Whoever sits down, will sleep ; and 
 whoever sleeps, will wake no more." Every one seemed accordingly 
 armed with resolution ; but on a sudden the cold became so very intense 
 as to threaten the most direful effects. It was very remarkable, that Dr. 
 Solander himself, who had so forcibly admonished his party, should be 
 the first who insisted upon being suffered to repose. In spite of the 
 most earnest entreaties, he lay down amid the snow, and it was with great 
 difficulty they kept him awake. When a black servant was informed, 
 that if he remained there he would soon be frozen to death, he replied, 
 that he was so exhausted with fatigue that death would be a relief to 
 him. Dr. Solander said he was not unwilling to go, but that he must 
 first take some sleep, notwithstanding what he had before declared to the 
 company. Thus resolved, they both sat down, supported by bushes, and 
 in a short time fell fast asleep. Intelligence now came from the advanced 
 party, that a fire was kindled about a quarter of a mile farther on the 
 way. Mr. Banks then waked the doctor, who had almost lost the use 
 of his limbs already, though it was but a few minutes since he sat down. 
 Every measure taken to relieve the black proved ineffectual ; he remain- 
 ed motionless, and they were obliged to leave him to the care of th^ 
 other black servant and a sailor, who appeared to have been the least hurt 
 by the cold. Mr. Banks and four others went forth at twelve o'clock and 
 met the sailor, with just strength enough to walk ; he was immediately 
 sent to the fire, and they proceeded to seek for the two others. They 
 found Richmond, one of the black servants, upon his legs, but incapable 
 of moving them ; the other black was lying senseless upon the ground. 
 
 All endeavours to bring them to the fire were fruitless, nor was it 
 possible to kindle one upon the spot, on account of the snow that had 
 fallen, and was still faUing, so that there was no alternative, but to leave 
 the two unfortunate negroes to their fate, making them a bed of boughs 
 of trees, and covering them very thick with the same. On the 17th, in 
 the morning, at daybreak, nothing presented itself around but snow, the 
 trees being equally covered with it as the ground. However, about six 
 in the morning they were flattered with a dawn of hope of being deliver- 
 ed, by discovering the sun through the clouds, which gradually dimi- 
 nished. Previous to setting out, messengers were despatched to the 
 unhappy negroes, who returned with the melancholy news of their death. 
 In about three hours, to their great satisfaction, found themselves upon 
 the shore, much nearer to the ship than their most sanguine expectations 
 could have flattered them. When they took a retrospect of their former 
 route from the sea, they found, that instead of ascending the hill in a 
 direct line, they had made a circle almost round the country. 
 
 January the 26th Captain Cook sailed from Cape Horn. The farthest 
 southern latitude he made was 60 degrees 10 minutes, by 74 degrees 30 
 minutes west. March the 1st were^in latitude 38 degrees 44 minutes 
 
 20 
 
230 VOYAGBS ROtND THE WORLD. 
 
 south, &nd longitude 110 degrees 33 minutes west, as well by observa- 
 tion as by the log ; which concurrence, after a course of 660 leagues, 
 was judged very singular. 
 
 April the 4th, a servant to Mr, Banks discovered land three or four 
 leagues distant. It was found to be an island of an oval form, with a 
 lake or lagoon in the centre ; the border of land was in many places 
 low and narrow, especially toward the south, where the beach consisted 
 of a reef of rocks. Captain Cook came within a mile on the north side, 
 but found no bottom nor anchorage. There appeared along the beach 
 some of the inhabitants, with pikes or poles in their hands, twice the 
 heigiit of themselves. This island was in latitude 18 degrees south, 
 longitude 139 degrees 28 minutes west, and was named Lagoon Island. 
 They saw land again in the afternoon to the north-west, when it appeared 
 a low island covered with wood, in form circular, about a mile in circum- 
 ference. No inhabitants were visible, though the Endeavour had reached 
 the shore within half a mile. This island, which is distant from that of 
 Lagoon about seven leagues, was named Thrumb Cap. The 5th con- 
 tinued their course, and about three o'clock discovered land to the west. 
 This was a low island, between ten and twelve leagues in circumference ; 
 it resembles in form a bow. This island, from the smoke discovered, 
 appeared to be inhabited, and was named Bow Island. 
 
 About noon, on the 6th, saw land again to the west ; this seemed divided 
 into two islands, or rather collections of islands, their extent being near 
 nine leagues. Some of these were ten miles or more in length, and pro- 
 duced trees of different kinds, among which was the cocoa nut. Several 
 of the inhabitants came out in canoes, and two appeared to have a design 
 of coming on board, but stopped at the reef. Next day discovered an- 
 other island, judged to be in compass about five miles. It was very low, 
 with a piece of water in the centre, and appeared to abound in wood and 
 verdure, but no inhabitants were visible. It was called Bird Island, from, 
 the number of them flying about. The 8th saw land to the north. This 
 seemed to be a chain of low islands, of an oval figure, and consisted of 
 coral and sand, with a few clumps of small trees, and in the middle of 
 it a lagoon. It was, from its appearance, called Chain Island. On the 
 10th, after a tempestuous night, saw Osnaburgh Island, called by the 
 natives Maite. This island is high and circular, about four miles in cir- 
 cumference, partly naked and rocky, and partly covered with trees. 
 
 The same day, on looking out for the island to which they were des- 
 tined, saw land ahead. Next morning it appeared very high and moun- 
 tainous, and was known to be King George the Third's Island, so named 
 by Captain Wallis, but by the natives called Otaheite. They lay ofT and 
 on till the 13th, and then entered Port Royal Harbour, anchoring within 
 half a mile of the shore. A great number of natives immediately came 
 off in canoes, bringing with them bananas, cocoa nuts, bread fruit, apples, 
 and some hogs, which they bartered with the ship's crew for beads and 
 other trinkets. When the ship was properly secured, the captain went 
 on shore with Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, a party under arras, and an old 
 Indian. They were received by some hundreds of the natives, v;ho were 
 struck with such awe, that the first who approached crept almost upon 
 his hands and knees. He presented them branches of trees, the usual 
 symbol of peace. This was received, on the part of the English, with 
 demonstrations of satisfaction and friendship ; and they gathered some, 
 and followed the example of the natives. They were conducted toward 
 the place where the Dolphin had watered. The whole circuit was near 
 
JAMES COOK. 
 
 2^31 
 
 foTir miles, through groves of trees of cocoa nuts and bread fruit. Be- 
 neath which were the habitations of the natives, consisting of only a 
 roof, destitute of wails. In this peregrination the gentlemen were not a 
 liltle disappointed at finding very few fowls or hogs. 
 
 The 15th, in the morning, several of the chiefs, one of whom was very 
 corpulent, came on board from the other point, bringing with them hogs, 
 bread fruit, and other refreshments. This day the captain, attended by 
 Mr. Banks and others, went on shore to fix on a proper spot to erect a 
 small fort for their defence. The latter ha\ing suspected, from seeing 
 few hogs or poultry in their walks, that they had been driven up the 
 country, it was resolved to penetrate into the woods, some marines and 
 a petty officer being appointed to guard the tent in the interim ; several 
 of the natives accompanied the gentlemen in this excursion. Upon 
 crossing a little river, Mr. Banks, perceiving some ducks, fired, and killed 
 three. The Indians were struck with the utmost terror at this event, 
 which occasioned them to fall suddenly to the ground, as if they had 
 been shot at the same time. Before this party had gone much farther^ 
 they were alarmed by the discharge of V\a pieces, fired by the tent-guard. 
 tJpon their return, it appeared that an Indian had taken an opportunity to 
 snatch away one of the sentinel's. muskets ; whereupon a young mid- 
 shipmen, very imprudently, ordered the marines to fire, which they did, 
 when several Indians were wounded ; but as the criminal did not fall, they 
 pursued and shot him dead. 
 
 The fort began to be erected on the 18th. Some of the company 
 Were employed in throwing up entrenchments, while others were occu- 
 pied in cutting fascines and pickets, which the Indians of their own 
 accord cheerfully assisted in bringing from the woods. This day \h& 
 natives brought down such quantities of bread fruit and cocoa nuts, that 
 it was necessary to reject them, and to intimate, that the company would 
 not want any for two days. Mr. Banks's tent being got up, he, for the 
 first time, slept on shore. On the 19th Tubora Tumaida visited Mr. 
 Banks at his tent, and brought with him, besides his wife and family, 
 the materials for erecting a house in the neighbourhood of the fort, wherd 
 he designed to reside. Without the lines a sort of market was esta- 
 blished, which was tolerably well supplied. Tubora Tumaida became Mr. 
 Banks's and the other gentlemen's frequent guest ; he adopted theit 
 manners, and was the only one of his countrymen who had attempted to 
 use a knife and fork. 
 
 On the 24th Mr. Bunhs and Dr. Solander made an excursion into the 
 country, which they found to be level and fertile for about two miles along 
 the shore to the eastward, after which the hills reached quite to the 
 water's edge, and farther on they ran out into the sea. 
 
 On the 25th several of their knives were missing ; upon which Mr. 
 Banks, who had lost his among the rest, accused Tubora Tumaida with 
 having stolen it, vfhich caused him to be very unhappy, as he happened 
 to be innocent. Mr. Molineux, master of the Endeavour, seeing a woman 
 whose name was Oberea, he declared she was the person he judged to 
 be the queen of the island when he came there in the Dolphin, The 
 eyes of all were now fixed on her who had made so distinguished a figure 
 in the accounts given by the first discoverers of this island. The per- 
 son of the queen was of a large make, and tall ; she was about forty 
 years of age, her skin v/hitc ; her eyes had great expression, and she had 
 been handsome, but her beauty was now upon the decline. She was 
 noon conducted to the ship, and went on board, accompanied by some of 
 
1^32 VOYAGES ROUND tttfe WORtft. 
 
 her family. Many presents were made her, particularly a child*s doll, 
 which seemed the most to engross het attention. Captain Cook accom- 
 panied he'i on shore, when she presented him with a hog and some plan- 
 tains, which were carried to the fort in procession, Oberea and the cap*- 
 lain bringing up the rear. They met Tootahah, who, though not king, 
 seemed to be at this time invested with a sovereign authority. He im» 
 mediately became jealous of the queen's having the ddll, which made it 
 necessary to compliment him with one also. 
 
 On the 5th Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, vVith the captain, set out in 
 the pinnace, with one of Tootahah's people ; they soon reached Eparre, 
 the place where he dwelt, which was but a few miles to the west of the 
 tents. Upon their arrival, they found great numbers of people upon thff 
 shore waiting for them. They were immediately conducted to the chief, 
 while the people shouted round them, Taio Tootahah, " Tootahah is oui 
 friend ;" they found him sitting under a tree, and some old men standing 
 round him. As soon as he had made signs for them to sit down, he 
 asked for his axe, which Captain Cook presented with a shirt and a 
 broad-cloth garment, with which he seemed greatly pleased. After eating, 
 an entertainment was provided for them, consisting of wrestling. The 
 chief sat at the upper end of the area, vi^ith several of his principal men 
 on each side, by way of judges, from whom the conquerors received 
 applause. Ten or twelve combatants entered the area, and after many 
 simple ceremonies of challenging each other, they engaged, endeavouring 
 to throw one another by dint of strength ; then seizing hold of each other 
 by the thigh, the hand, the hair, or the clothes, they grappled without 
 the least art, till one was thrown on his back ; this conquest was applauded 
 by some words from the old men, and three huzzas. After one engage- 
 ment succeeded another, but if they could not throw each other during 
 the space of a minute, they parted, either by consent, or the intervention 
 of their friends. 
 
 On the 15th Mr. Banks detected Tubora Tamaida in having stolen 
 some nails. He had had a good opinion of this chief, and was willing to 
 put his fidelity to the test ; several temptations were thrown in his way, 
 among the rest, a basket of nails, which proved irresistible. He con- 
 fessed the fact, and upon Mr. Banks's insisting upon restitution, he de- 
 clared the nails were at Eparre ; this occasioned high words, and at length 
 the Indian produced one of them. He was to have been forgiven upon 
 restoring the rest, but not having resolution to fulfil his engagement, fled 
 with his furniture and family before night. Tootahah sent many mes- 
 sages to request a visit from the captain, declaring he would acknowledge 
 the compliment by a present of some hogs. Mr. Hicks, the first lieute- 
 nant, was sent, in hopes of getting the hogs without the visit. He was 
 received in a very friendly manner at a place called Tettehah, five miles 
 farther to the westward, where Tootahah had taken up his residence. 
 He brought away one hog only, which had been produced immediately 
 upon his arrival,' with a promise of receiving more the next morning; 
 but, when morning came, he was obliged to depart without them. 
 
 On the 27lh, Tootahah being removed to a place called Atahourou, 
 Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, Captain Cook, and some others, set out in the 
 pinnace to pay him a visit : after making presents of a few trifling articles, 
 they were invited to stay all night. Mr. Banks having accepted of a place 
 in Oberea's canoe, left his companions, in order to retire to rest. Not- 
 withstanding the care Oberea took of his clothes, by having them in her 
 own custody, they were stolen, with his pistols, powder-horn, and many 
 
' JAMES COOK. 233 
 
 other things in his pockets. The alarm was given to Tootahah, who slept 
 in the next canoe, and who went with Oberea in search of the thief, lea- 
 ving Mr. Banks nearly naked, and his musket uncharged. They soon 
 returned, but without success ; Mr. Banks thought proper to put up with 
 the loss for the present, and a second time endeavoured to sleep. But 
 he had scarcely composed himself, before he heard some music, and per- 
 ceived lights at a small distance from shore ; this proved to be a concert 
 which they call Heiva. As soon as he approached the lights, be found 
 the hut where Mr. Cook and three of his associates lay, and began to 
 relate his melancholy tale ; but, instead of receiving much comfort from 
 them, he was told that they had shared the same fate, having lost their 
 stockings and jackets. However, this did not prevent their hearing out 
 the concert, which consisted of drums, flutes, and several voices, after 
 which they retned to rest. 
 
 Some Indians from a neighbouring island, to which Captain Wallis 
 gave the name of Duke of York's Island, informed them of more than 
 twenty islands in the neighbourhood of Otaheite. They now began to 
 make necessary preparations for the transit of Venus, and Mr. Cook sent 
 out two parties to make observations from different spots, that in case 
 they failed at Otaheite they might succeed elsewhere. And on the 1st 
 of June, the next Saturday being the day of the transit, they sent the 
 long-boat to Eimayo, having on board Mr. Gore, Mr. Monkhouse, and 
 Mr. Sporing, a friend of Mr. Banks ; each furnished with necessary in- 
 struments by Mr. Green. * 
 
 In a morning's excursion Mr. Banks met several of the natives, who 
 were itinerant musicians, and the place of the evening's rendezvous being 
 known, all the English gentlemen went thither to partake of the diver- 
 sion. Their instruments were flutes and drums, and a great number of 
 the Indians were got together upon the occasion. The drummers sung 
 to the music, and lo the astonishment of Mr. Banks and the rest of his 
 companions, they found that they were the chief subject of the minstrels* 
 lays. These songs must, therefore, have been extemporaneous, the re- 
 wards whereof were such necessaries as they required. An iron coal- 
 rake for the oven being stolen in the night of the 14th, with many other 
 things, the captain judged it of consequence to put an end to these prao»- 
 tices, by making it their common interest to prevent it. He had already 
 given strict orders, that the sentinels should not fire upon them, even if 
 detected in the fact. About twenty-seven of their double canoes were 
 lust come in with cargoes of fish, which the captain seized, and then gave 
 notice, that unless the rake, and all the other things which had at diffe- 
 rent times been stolen, were returned, the vessels should be burnt. He 
 had, indeed, no such design, as will appear by the event. The menace 
 produced no other effect than the restitution of the rake, all the other 
 things remaining in their possession ; at length the captain thought pro- 
 per to give up the cargoes, as the innocent natives were in great distress 
 for want of them ; and at last, to prevent confusion from the difficulty of 
 ascertaining to whom the different lots belonged, he promised also to 
 release the canoes. 
 
 On the 19th, while the canoes were detained by the captain, Oberea 
 paid the gentlemen a visit ; she came from Tootahah's palace in a double 
 canoe, and brought with her a hog, bread fruit, and other presents, among 
 which was a dog ; but none of the things that had been stolen : these 
 she pleaded had been taken away by her gallant Obadee, for which she 
 had beaten him. She did not, however, seem to think her story deserved 
 
234 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 credit, but appeared at first much terrified, though she surmounted her 
 fears with much fortitude ; and was desirous of sleeping with her atten- 
 dants in Mr. Banks's tent ; but this being refused, she was obliged to pass 
 the night in her canoe. The captain declined accepting of her presents, 
 at which she seemed very sorrowful. The next morning she returned 
 to the fort, and Captain Cook, having altered his mind, accepted them. 
 Two of her attendants were very earnest in getting themselves husbands, 
 in which they succeeded, by means of the surgeon and one of the lieu- 
 tenants. Dogs are esteemed here more delicate than pork, as those bred 
 to be eaten taste no animal food, but live entirely upon vegetables, and 
 the experiment was tried. Tupia undertook to kill and dress one, which 
 he did, by making a hole in the ground and baking him. It was agreed 
 by every one to be a very good dish. 
 
 They v/ere visited on the 21st, at the fort, by many of the natives, and 
 among the rest Oamo, a chief of several districts on the island, whom they 
 had never before seen, who brought with him a hog. This chief was 
 treated with great respect by the natives, and was accompanied by a boy 
 and a young woman. The boy was carried upon a man's back, though 
 very able to walk. Oberea and some others of tlie Indians went out of the 
 fort to meet them, their heads and bodies being first uncovered as low as 
 the waist. This was considered as a mark of respect not noticed before, 
 but judged it was usually shown to persons of distinguished rank among 
 them. Oamo entered the tent, but the young woman, who was about 
 sixteen, could not be prevailed upon to accompany him, though she seem- 
 ed to combat with her curiosity and inclination. Dr. Solander took the 
 youth by the hand, and conducted him in ; but the natives without, who 
 had prevented the girl's entrance, soon found means to get him out again. 
 The curiosity of the gentlemen being excited from these circumstances, 
 they made inquiry who these strangers were, and were informed, that 
 Oamo was Oberea's husband, but that by mutual consent they had been 
 for a considerable time separated ; and that the youth and girl were their 
 offspring. The boy was named Terridiri, and was heir-apparent to the 
 sovereignty of the island ; and he was to espouse his sister as soon as he 
 had attained a proper age. The present sovereign being a minor, called 
 Outou, and son of Whappai ; Whappai, Oamo, and Tootahah, were all 
 brothers ; Whappai was the senior, and Oamo the next ; wherefore, 
 Whappai having no child but Outou, Terridiri, son of Oamo, was heir 
 to the sovereignty. To us it will appear singular, that a boy should reign 
 during the life of his father ; but in the Island of Otaheite a boy succeeds 
 to his father's authority and title as soon as he is born : when a regent 
 is elected, v/hich office usually falls upon the father, till the boy becomes 
 of age ; at this time, however, the election had fallen upon his uncle 
 Tootahah, on account of his warlike exploits. Oamo was very inquisitive 
 with respect to the English, and by his questions he appeared a man of 
 understanding and penetration. 
 
 June 26th, the captain set out in the pinnace, accompanied by Mr. Banks, 
 to circumnavigate the island. They sailed to the eastward, and in the 
 forenoon went on shore on a part of the island under the government of Ahio, 
 a young chief who had often visited them at the tents. They landed in 
 a district which was governed by a chief named Maraitata, the burying 
 place of men, and his father was called Pahairede, the stealer of boats. 
 Notwithstanding their names were so ominous, they gave the party a very 
 civil reception, furnished them with provisions, and sold them a large hog 
 for a hatchet. Toward the southernmost part of the island they found a 
 
JAMES COOK. 235 
 
 good harbour, formed by a reef, and the circumjacent country is remarka- 
 bly fruitful. They landed again a little farther to the east. Mathiabo, 
 the chief, with whom they had no acquaintance, nor had ever seen before, 
 soon came to them, and supplied them with cocoa nuts and bread fruit. 
 They were now near the district named Paparra, govered by Oamo and 
 Oberea, where they intended to spend the oight. Mr. Banks and his 
 company landed about an hour before it was dark, and found they were 
 both set out to pay a visit at the fort. They, nevertheless, slept at the 
 house of Oberea, which, though not large, was very neat ; no inhabitant 
 but her father was now in possession of it, who showed them much 
 civility. The gentlemen of the Endeavour, it has been observed, did not 
 find Oberea possessed of the same power as when the Dolphin was at 
 this place, and they were now informed of the cause. The way from her 
 house to the Moral was by the sea-side, and they observed, in all places 
 as they passed along, a great number of human bones. Inquiry being 
 made into the cause of this, they were informed that, about four or five 
 months before Captain Cook's arrival, the inhabitants of Tiarrabou, the 
 peninsula to the south-east, made a descent here, and slew many of the 
 people, whose bones were those that were seen upon the coast : that here- 
 upon Oberea and Oamo, who then held the government for his son, had 
 fled and taken refuge in the mounlfeins ; and that the victors destroyed 
 all the houses and pillaged the country. Mr. Banks was also informed, 
 that the turkey and goose which he had seen in the district of Mathiabo 
 were among the booty ; this afforded a reason for their being found where 
 the Dolphin had little or no correspondence ; and the jaw-bones being 
 mentioned, which had been seen hanging in a hotse, he was informed that 
 they had likewise been carried off as trophies ; the jaw-bones of their 
 enemies being considered by the natives of this island as great a mark of 
 triumph as scalps arc by the Indians of North America. 
 
 July 1st, returned to the fort at Port Royal Harbour ; having discovered 
 the island, both peninsulas included, to be about 100 miles iii circum- 
 ference. 
 
 They now began to make preparations for their departure ; but, before 
 they set sail, they had another visit from Oamo, Oberea, and their son and 
 daughter. The 10th, two marines being missing, an inquiry was made 
 after them, when the Indians declared they did not propose returning, 
 having each taken a wife. In consequence of which it was intimated to 
 several of the chiefs who were in the fort with their women, among whom 
 were Tubora Tumaida, Tomio, and Oberea, that they would not be suf- 
 fered to quit it till the deserters were produced. Mr. Hicks was imme- 
 diately despatched in the long-boat, with several men, for them ; at the 
 same time Captain Cook told Tootahah that it was incumbent on him to 
 assist them with some of his people, and to give orders, in his name, 
 that the men should be set at liberty, for that he should expect him to 
 answer for the event. Tootahah immediately comphed, and this party 
 recovered the men without any opposition. 
 
 Tupia, a very friendly native, had been prime minister of Oberea when 
 she was at the pinnacle of her authority ; he was also the principal priest 
 of the island, and likewise versed in navigation, and was thoroughly ac- 
 quainted with the number, situation, inhabitants, and produce of the ad- 
 jacent islands. He had often testified a desire to go with them ; and on 
 the 12th, in the morning, came on board with a boy about twelve years 
 of age, his servant, named Tayota. 
 
 The ship now was surrounded by numberless canoes, which contained 
 
336 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the inferior natives. They weighed anchor about twelve. Tupia sup* 
 ported himself in this scene with a becoming fortitude ; tears flowed front 
 his eyes, but the effort that he made to conceal them did him additional 
 honour. He went with Mr. Banks to the mast-head, where he continued 
 waving his hand to the canoes as long as they remained visible. 
 
 July the 13th, after leaving the Island of Otaheite, sailed with a gentle 
 breeze, and were informed by Tupia that four islands, which he called 
 Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola, were at the distance of about 
 one or two days' sail, and that hogs, fowls, and other refreshments, which 
 had lately been scarce, were to begot there in abundance. They ac- 
 cordingly steered in search of these islands, and on the 15th discovered 
 Huaheine. Several canoes immediately put off, and the King of Hua- 
 heine and his queen went on board. Astonishment was testified by their 
 majesties at everything shown them. The former, whose name was 
 Oree, made a proposal to exchange names with Captain Cook, which was 
 readily assented to. The custom of exchanging names is very prevalent 
 in this island, and is considered as a mark of friendship. They found the 
 people here nearly similar to those of Otaheite in almost every circum- 
 stance, except, if Tupia might be credited, they were not addicted to 
 thieving. The 19th, they carried some hatchets with them, with which 
 they procured three very large hogs. As they proposed to sail in the 
 afternoon, the king, accompanied by some others of the natives, came on 
 board to take his leave, when his majesty received from Captain Cook a 
 small pewter plate, with an inscription. This island is situated in the 
 latitude of 16 degrees 43 minutes south, longitude 150 degrees 52 minutes 
 west, distant from Otaheite about thirty leagues, and is about twenty 
 miles in circumference. 
 
 From Huaheine they sailed to Ulietea. Next morning, by the direction 
 of Tupia, they anchored in a bay formed by a reef, on the north side of 
 the island. The captain, Mr. Banks, and some other gentlemen, now 
 went on shore, accompanied by Tupia ; after which, Captain Cook took 
 possession of this and the adjacent islands in the name of the King ot 
 Great Britain. 
 
 On the 25th they were within a league or two of Otaha. This island 
 appeared to be more barren than Ulietea, but the produce was much the 
 same. The natives paid them the compliment they used toward their 
 own kings, by uncovering their shoulders, and wrapping their clothes 
 round their bodies, taking care no one should omit doing the same. 
 
 On the 29th made sail to the northward, and at eight o'clock next 
 morning were close under the high craggy peak of Bolabola. The next 
 morning they discovered an island, which Tupia called Morua. In the 
 afternoon, finding themselves to windward of some harbours on the west 
 side of Ulietea, they intended to put into one, in order to stop a leak 
 which they had sprung in the powder-room, and to take in some addi- 
 tional ballast. On the 5th some hogs and fowls, several pieces of cloth, 
 many of them fifty or sixty yards in length, together with a quantity of 
 plantains and cocoa nuts, were sent to Captain Cook as presents, from 
 the Earee rahie of the Island of Bolabola, accompanied with a message, 
 that he was then on the island, and intended waiting on the captain the 
 next day. Next day he did not visit them agreeable to promise. After 
 dinner, they set out to pay the king a visit on shore, as he did not ihink 
 proper to come on board. As this man was the Earee rahie of the Bola- 
 bola men, who had conquered this, and were the dread of all the neigh- 
 bouring islands, they were disappointed, instead of finding a vigorous, 
 
JAMES COOK. 237 
 
 etiteirpnsing young chief, to see a poor decrepid old man, half blind, and 
 sinking under the weight of age and infirmities. He received them with- 
 out either that state or ceremony which they had hitherto met with among 
 the other chiefs. They did not go on shore at Bolabola ; but, after 
 giving the general name of the Society Islands to the Islands of Huaheine, 
 Ulietea, Bolabola, Otaha, and Morua, which lie between the latitude of 
 16 degrees 10 minutes and 16 degrees 65 minutes south, they pursued 
 their course, standing southwardly lor an island, to which they were 
 directed by Tupia, at above 100 leagues distant, which they discovered 
 on Sunday, the loth, and were informed by him that it was called Ohitezoa. 
 
 On the 7th of October discovered land at west by north, and in the 
 afternoon of the next day came to an anchor opposite the mouth of a little 
 river, about a mile and a half from the shore ; but, notwithstanding all 
 their efforts, a friendly intercourse could not be established ; while, un- 
 fortunately, some of the natives were killed in different unavoidable 
 skirmishes. 
 
 The Endeavour now passed a small island, white and high, and, as it 
 appeared quite barren, was named Bare Island. On the 17th Captain 
 Cook gave the name of Cape Turn-again to a headland, in latitude 40 
 degrees 34 minutes south, longitude 182 degrees 55 minutes west. Be- 
 fore the Endeavour touched at New Zealand, which this was, it was not 
 certainly known whether it was an island or part of the continent. On 
 the 20th anchored in a bay about two leagues north of Gable End Fore- 
 land. Two chiefs, who came on board, received presents of linen, which 
 gave much satisfaction; but they did not hold spike-nails in such estima- 
 tion as the inhabitants of some of the islands. Sailing to the northward, 
 they fell in with a small island named East Island. When the Endea- 
 vour had doubled the cape, many villages appeared in view, and the 
 adjacent land appeared cultivated. On the evening of the 30th Lieu- 
 tenant Hicks discovered a bay, to which his name was given. Next 
 morning, about nine, several canoes came off from shore, with a number 
 of armed men, who appeared to have hostile intentions. Before these 
 had reached the ship, another canoe, larger than any that had yet been 
 seen, full of armed Indians, came off, and made toward the Endeavour 
 with great expedition. The captain now judging it expedient to prevent, 
 if possible, their attacking him, ordered a gun to be fired over their heads. 
 In searching for a convenient anchoring place, the captain saw a village 
 upon a high point, near the head of the bay, fortified like some others 
 already seen before. Having met with a convenient place, near where 
 the Endeavour lay, he returned to the ship, and sailed to that spot, where 
 he cast anchor. Two fortified villages being descried, the captain, with 
 Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander, went to examine them : the smallest was 
 romantically situated upon a rock, which was arched ; this village did 
 not consist of above five or six houses, fenced round. There was but 
 one path, very narrow, that conducted to it. The gentlemen were in- 
 vited by the inhabitants to pay them a visit, but not having time to spare, 
 took another route, after making presents to the females. A body of 
 men, women, and children, now approached the gentlemen, who proved 
 to be the inhabitants of another town, which they proposed visiting. 
 They gave many testimonials of their friendly dispositions, among others, 
 they uttered the word Heromai, which, according to Tupia's interpreta- 
 tion, implied ])eace, and appeared much satisfied when informed the 
 centlemen intended visiting their habitations. Their town was named 
 Wharretouwa ; it is seated on a point of land over the sea, on the north 
 
238 VOYAGES ROXTND THE WORLD. 
 
 side of the bay ; it was paled round, and defended by a double ditch. 
 Within the ditch a stage is erected for defending the place in case of 
 an attack ; near this stage, which they call Porava, quantities of dart* 
 and stones are deposited, to be in readiness to repel the assailants. There 
 is another stage to command the path that leads to the town, and there 
 are also some outworks. Upon the whole, the place seemed calculated to 
 hold out a considerable time against an enemy armed with no other wea- 
 pons than those of the inhabitants. It appeared, however, deficient in 
 water for a siege. They eat, instead of bread, fern-root, which was here 
 in great plenty, with dried fish. Very little land is here cultivated, sweet 
 potatoes and yams being the only vegetables they found. There are two 
 rocks near the foot of this fortification, both separated from the maia 
 land ; they are very small, nevertheless they are not without dwelling- 
 houses and little fortifications. They throw stones in their engagements 
 with their hands, being destitute of a sling, and those and lances are their 
 only missile weapons ; they have, besides the pattoo-pattoo, a club about 
 five feet in length, and another shorter. They sailed from this bay, 
 after taking possession of it in the name of the King of Great Britain, 
 on the 16th November. 
 
 On the 18th the Endeavour steered between the main and an island 
 which seemed very fertile, and as extensive as Ulietea. Many canoes 
 filled with Indians came alongside, and the Indians sung their war-song ;. 
 but the Endeavour's people paying them no attention, they threw a voUey 
 of stones, and then paddled away. 
 
 The 26th Captain Cook continued his course along shore to the north. 
 Two canoes came up, and some of the Indians came on board, when 
 they trafficked very fairly. Two larger canoes soon after followed, and 
 coming up, the people in them hailed the others, when they conferred 
 together, and afterward came alongside of the ship. The last two canoes 
 were finely ornamented with carving, and the people, who appeared to be 
 of higher rank, were armed with various weapons ; they held in high 
 estimation their pattoo-pattoos, made of stone and whalebone, and they 
 had ribs of whale, with ornaments of dogs' hair, which were very curious. 
 These people were of a darker complexion than those to the southward, 
 and their faces were stained blacker with what they call amoco ; and 
 their thighs were striped with it, very small interstices of the flesh being 
 left visible. Though they all used the black amoco, they applied it to 
 different parts and in various forms. Most of them had the figure of 
 volutes on their lips, and one woman, in particular, was curiously marked 
 upon various parts of her body. These Indians seemed the superiors of 
 the others ; they were, nevertheless, not free from the vice of pilfering ; 
 for one having agreed to barler a weapon for a piece of cloth, he was no 
 sooner in possession of the cloth, than he paddled away without paying 
 the price of it ; but a musket being fired, he came back and returned the 
 cloth. All the canoes then returned ashore. 
 
 For several days the vessel lost ground. On the 29th, having wea- 
 thered Cape Bret, they bore away to leeward, and got into a large bay, 
 where they anchored on the south-west side of several islands ; after 
 which the ship was surrounded by thirty-three large canoes, containing 
 near three hundred Indians, all armed. Some were admitted on board, 
 and Captain Cook gave a piece of broadcloth to one of the chiefs, and 
 some small presents to the others. They traded peaceably for some 
 time, being terrified at the fire-arms, the effect of which they were not 
 unacquainted with ; but while the captain was at dinner, on a signal given 
 
JAMES COOK. 239 
 
 by one of the chiefs, all the Indians quitted the ship, and attempted 
 to tow away the buoy ; a musket was now fired over them, but it pro- 
 duced no effect ; small shot was then fired, but did not reach them. A 
 musket loaded with ball was, therefore, ordered to be fired, and Ote- 
 goowgoow, son of one of the chiefs, was wounded in the thigh, which 
 induced them immediately to throw the buoy overboard. To complete 
 their confusion, a round shot was fired, which reached the shore, and as 
 soon as they landed they ran in search of it. 
 
 On the 5th they weighed anchor. The bay which they had left was 
 called the Bay of Islands, on account of the number it contains. The 
 captain named another large inlet Queen Charlotte's Sound, and took 
 possession of it in the name and for the use of his majesty, when a bottle 
 of wine was drank to the queen's health. On the 1 2th of March discovered 
 a bay, which Captain Cook called Dusky Bay ; and it is remarkable for 
 having five high peaked rocks lying off it, which look like the thumb and 
 four fingers of a man's hand ; whence it was denominated Point Five 
 Fingers. It was now resolved to return by the East Indies, and with 
 that view to steer for the east coast of New Holland, and then follow 
 the direction of that coast to the northward. They sailed March 31st, 
 and taking their departure from an eastern point, called it Cape Farewell. 
 The bay from which they sailed was named Admiralty Bay, and the two 
 capes thereof Cape Stephens and Cape Jackson, the names of the 
 secretaries to the admiralty. 
 
 The men of this country are as large as the largest Europeans. Their 
 complexion is brown, but little more so than that of a Spaniard. They 
 are full of flesh, but not lazy and luxurious, and are stout and well 
 shaped. The women's voices are singularly soft, which, as the dress of 
 both sexes is similar, chiefly distinguishes them from the men. The lat- 
 ter are active in a high degree, their hair black, their teeth white and 
 even. The features of both sexes are regular ; they enjoy perfect health, 
 and live to a very advanced age. They are of the gentlest dispositions, 
 and treat each other with the utmost kindness ; but they are perpetually 
 at war, every httle district being at enmity with all the rest. This is 
 owing, most probably, to the want of food in sufficient quantities, at 
 certain times. They have neither black cattle, sheep, hogs, nor goats ; 
 so that their chief food being fish, and that not at all times to be obtained, 
 they are in danger of dying through hunger. They have a few, and but 
 a very few, dogs ; and when no fish is to be got, they have only vege- 
 tables, such as yams and potatoes, to feed on ; and if, by any accident, 
 these fail them, their situation must be deplorable. This will account 
 for their shocking custom of eating the bodies which are slain in battle. 
 
 The canoes of this country are long and narrow. The large sort 
 seem built for war, and will hold from thirty to one hundred men. One 
 of these, at Tolaga, measured near seventy feet in length, six in width, 
 four in depth, sharp at the bottom, and consisted of three lengths, about 
 two or three inches thick, and tied firmly together with strong plaiting : 
 each side was formed of one entire plank, about twelve inches broad, 
 and about an inch and a half thick, which were fitted to the bottom part 
 with equal strength and ingenuity. Some few at Mercury Bay and 
 Opoorage, are made of one trunk of wood, hollowed by fire ;'but by far 
 the greater part are built after the plan above described. The smaller 
 boats, used in fishing, are adorned at head and stern with the figure of a 
 man, the eyes of which are composed of the white shells of sea-ears, a 
 tongue of enormous size is thrust out of the mouth, and the whole face 
 
240 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 is a picture of the most absolute deformity. The grander canoes, which 
 are intended for war. are ornamented with open-work, and covered with 
 fringes of black feathers, which give the whole an air of perfect elegance : 
 the side-boards, which are carved in a rude manner, are embellished with 
 tufts of white feathers. They are rowed with a kind of paddle between 
 five and six feet in length, the blade of which is a long oval, gradually 
 decreasing till it reaches the handle ; and the velocity with which they 
 row with these paddles is surprising. Their sails are composed of a 
 kind of mat or netting, extended between two upright poles, one of which 
 is fixed on each side. Two ropes, fastened to the top of each pole, serve 
 instead of sheete. The vessels are steered by two men, having each a 
 paddle, and sitting in the stern ; but they can only sail before the wind, 
 in which direction they move with considerable swiftness. 
 
 Their tillage of the ground is excellent, owing to the necessity of 
 cultivating or running the risk of starving. At Tegadoo their crops were 
 just put into the ground, and the surface of the field was as smooth as a 
 garden ; the roots were ranged in regular lines, and to every root there 
 remained a hillock. A long narrow stake, sharpened to an edge at the 
 bottom, with a piece fixed across a little above it for the convenience of 
 driving it into the ground with the foot, supplies the place both of plough 
 and spade. The spil being light, their work is not very laborious, and 
 with this instrument alone they will turn up ground of six or seven acres 
 in extent. 
 
 Their warlike weapons are spears, darts, battle-axes, and the pattoo- 
 pattoo. The spear, which is pointed at each end, is about elxteen feet in 
 length, and held in the middle. Whether they fight in boats or on shore, 
 the battle is hand to hand ; they trust chiefly in the pattoo-pattoo, which 
 is fastened to the wrist by means of a strong strap, that it may not be 
 wrenched out of the hand. These are worn in the girdles of people of a 
 superior rank, as a military ornament. They have a kind of staff of 
 distinction, which is carried by the principal warriors : it is formed of a 
 whale's rib, is quite white, and adorned with carvings, feathers, and the 
 hair of their dogs ; and they sometimes carried a stick six feet long, 
 inlaid with shells, and otherwise adorned like the military staff. This 
 honourable mark of distinction was commonly borne by the old men. 
 When they came to attack the English, there was usually one or more 
 thus distinguished in each canoe. It was their custom to stop at about 
 fifty or sixty yards distance from the ship, when the chief, arising from 
 his seat, and putting on a garment of dog's skin, used to direct them how 
 to proceed. When they were too far from the ship to reach it either 
 with stone or lance, they cried out, Haromai, haromai, liarre lUa a patoo- 
 ■patoo ege. — " Come to us, come on shore, and we will kill you all with 
 our pattoo-pattoos." During these menaces they approached the ship, 
 till thev came alongside, talking peaceably at intervals, and answering 
 whatever questions were asked. Then again their threats were renewed, 
 till, imagining the sailors were afraid of them, they began the war song 
 and dance — an engagement always followed, and sometimes continued 
 till the firing of small shot repulsed them ; at others, only till they had 
 satiated their vengeance by throwing a few stones on board the ship. 
 
 In the war-dance their motions are numerous, their limbs are distorted, 
 and their faces are agitated. They accompany this dance with a song, 
 which is sung in concert ; every strain ending with a loud and deep 
 siffh. There is an activity and vigour in their dancing which is truly 
 admirable ; and their idea of keeping time in music is such, that sixty or 
 
JAMES COOK. 241 
 
 eighty padtlles will strike at once against the sides of their boats, and 
 make only one report. 
 
 They fortify all their hippahs, or towns, of which there are several 
 between the Bay of Plenty and Queen Charlotte's Sound. In these the 
 inhabitants of those parts constantly reside ; but near Tolaga, Tegadoo, 
 Hawk's Bay, and Poverty Bay, there are no towns, only single houses at 
 a considerable distance apart. On the sides of the hills were erected 
 long stages, supplied with darts and stones, which were thought to be 
 retreats in time of battle, and on which, froni their elevated situation, 
 they can combat the enemy with these weapons to great advantage. In 
 these repositories they store their dried fish and fern-roots. 
 
 They sailed from Cape Farewell on the 31st of March, 1770. On the 19th 
 of April they discovered land four or five leagues distant, the southernmost 
 part of which was called Point Hicks, in compliment to Mr. Hicks, the 
 first lieutenant, who made the discovery. Intending to land, they took 
 Tupla with them ; and had no sooner come near the shore, than two men 
 advanced, as if to dispute their setting foot on shore. They were each 
 armed with different weapons. They called aloud, in a harsh tone, warra 
 loarra wai, the meaning of which Tupia did not understand. The cap- 
 tain threw them beads, nails, and other trifles, which they took up, and 
 seemed to be delighted with. He then made signs that he wanted 
 water, and used every possible means to convince them that no injury 
 was intended. They made signs to the boat's crew to land, on which 
 they put the boat in ; but had no sooner done so, than the two Indians 
 came again to oppose them. One of them threw a stone at the boat, on 
 which the captain ordered a musket loaded with small shot to be fired, 
 which wounding the eldest in the legs, he retired hastily to one of their 
 houses which stood at some httle distance. The people in the boats 
 landed, imagining that the wound which this man had received would 
 put an end to the contest ; in this, however, they were mistaken, for he 
 immediately returned with a kind of shield, of an oval figure, painted 
 white in the middle, with two holes in it to see through. They advanced 
 with great intrepidity, and both discharged their lances at the boat's 
 crew, but did not wound any one. Another musket was now fired, on 
 which they threw another lance and then took to their heels. The crew 
 now went up to the huts, in one of which they found children^ who had 
 secreted themselves behind some bark. They looked at them, but 
 vyithout ^eir knowing they had been seen ; and having thrown some 
 pieces of cloth, ribands, beads, and other things into the hut, took 
 several of their lances, and re- embarked into the boat. The name of 
 Botany Bay was given to this place, from the large number of plants 
 collected by Messrs. Banks and Solander. 
 
 They sailed hence the 6th of May, 1770 ; at noon were oflf a harbour 
 which was called Port Jackson, and in the evening near a bay, to which 
 they gave the name of Broken Bay. On the 10th passed a low rocky 
 point, which was named Point Stephens, near which was an inlet, 
 denominated Port Stephens. 
 
 Coastmg this shore till the 10th of June, an accident had nearly 
 terminated their voyage fatally. The ship struck on a rock in the night, 
 at some distance from the land, and made so much water as to threaten 
 to sink every moment, which was only prevented by great exertions and 
 the lavour of Providence, for nothing else could have saved them. After 
 some httle examination, they found a small harbour to look at the ship's 
 bottom, and there found that the only thing which prevented her from 
 
 21 
 
242 vorAGES round thb woiili>. 
 
 sinking was a large piece of rock, broken off and sticking m the largest 
 hole, which impeded the entrance of the water. Here they procured 
 some refreshments, landed the sick and stores, made a variety of excur- 
 «ons by land and water to the neighbouring places, and, for the first time, 
 saw the animal now known as the kangaroo. 
 
 Three Indians visited Tiipia's tent on the I2th of July, and after 
 remaining some time, one of them went for two others, whom he intro- 
 duced by name. Some fish was offered, but they seemed not much to 
 regard it, and, after eating a Uttle, gave the remainder to Mr. Banks's 
 dog. Some ribands given them, to which niedak were suspended 
 round their necks, were so changed by smoke tl"iat it was difficult to- 
 judge what colour they had been ; and the smoke had made their skins 
 look darker than their natural colour ; from whence it was thought that 
 they slept close to their fires, as a preventiTe against the sting of the 
 moscheioes. Both the strangers had bones through their noses, and a 
 piece of bark tied over the forehead ; and one had an ornament of strings- 
 round his arm, and an elegant necklace made of shells. Their canoe 
 was about ten feet long, and calculated to hold four persons, and when iri 
 shallow water they moved it by means of poles. Their lances had only 
 a single point, and some of them were barbed with fish-bones. On the 
 14th Mr. Gore shot one of the mouse-coloured animals abovementioned. 
 It chanced to be a young one, weighing not more than thirty-eight 
 pounds ; but when full grown they are as large as a sheep. The skin of 
 this beast is covered with short fur, and is of a dark mouse-colour ; the 
 head and ears are somewhat like those of a hare : this animal was 
 dressed for dinner, and proved fine eating. The ship's crew fed on turtle 
 almost every day, which were finer than those eaten in England, owing 
 to their being killed before their na-tural fat was wasted and their juice* 
 changed. 
 
 They sailed hence on the 13th of August, 1770, and got through one 
 one of the channels in the reef; happy to be once more in an open sea, 
 after having been surrounded by dreadful shoals and rocks for near three 
 months, during all which run they had been obliged to keep sounding 
 without the intermission of a single minute ; a circumstance which it is 
 supposed never happened to any ship but the Endeavour. On the 14th 
 steered a westerly course to get sight of the land, that a passage between 
 that land and New Guinea might not be missed, if there wa.s any such 
 passage. This day the boats went out to fish, and met with great suc- 
 cess, particularly in catching cockles, some of which were of such an 
 amazing size as to require the strength of two men to move them. 
 
 Previous to their leaving, Captain Cook displayed the English colours, 
 and took possession of all the eastern coast of the country, from the 
 3Sth degree of south latitude to the present spot, by the name of New 
 South Wales, for his sovereign the King of Great Britain j upon which 
 three vollevs of small arms were fired, and answered by an equal number 
 from the Endeavour. They were now at the northern extremity of New 
 Holland, and had the satisfaction of viewing the open sea to the west- 
 ward. The north-east entrance of the passage is formed by the main 
 land of New Holland and by a number of islands, which took the name 
 of the Prince of Wales's Islands, and which Captain Cook imagines may 
 reach to New Guinea. To the passage sailed through Captain Cook 
 gave the name of Endeavour Straits. 
 
 New South Wales is a much larger country than any hitherto known, 
 not deemed a continent, being larger than all Europe ; which i& proved 
 
JAMES COOK. 243 
 
 by the Endeavour having coasted more than two thousand miles, even if 
 her track was reduced to a straight line. It does not appear, much in- 
 habited ; not above thirty persons being ever seen together but once, 
 when these of both sexes and all ages got together on a rock off Botany 
 Bay to view the ship. The men are well made, of the middle size, and 
 active in a high degree ; but their voices are soft even to effeminacy. 
 Their colour is chocolate, but so covered with dirt as to look almost as 
 black as negroes. The women were seen only at a distance, as the men 
 constantly left them behind. The chief ornament of these people is the 
 bone thrust through the nose, which the sailors whimsically termed their 
 spritsail-yard : but besides this they wore necklaces formed of shells, a 
 small cord tied twice or thrice round the arm, between the elbow and the 
 shoulder, and a string of plaited human hair round the waist. Their hut3 
 are built with small rods, the two ends of which were fi.xed into the 
 ground, so as to form the figure of an oven, and covered with pieces of 
 bark and palm leaves. The door, which is only high enough to sit up- 
 right in, is opposite to the fire-place ; they sleep with their heels turned 
 up toward their heads, and even in this posture the hut will not hold more 
 than four people. They feed on the kangaroo, on several kinds of birds, 
 on yams, and various kinds of fruit ; but the prmcipal article of subsis- 
 tence is fish. Their method of producing fire is singular ; having wrought 
 one end of a stick into an obtuse point, they place this point upon a piece 
 of dry wood, and turning the upright stick very fast backward and for- 
 ward between their hands, the fire is soon produced. 
 
 They make use of spears or lances ; but these are very differently 
 constructed : those seen in the southern parts of the country had four 
 prongs, pointed with bone, and barbed ; those in the northern parts have 
 only one point ; the shafts of different lengths, from eight to fourteen 
 'feet, are made of the stalk of a plant not unlike a bulrush, and consist 
 of several joints let into each other, and tied together. They make use 
 of shields made of the bark of trees, of about eighteen inches broad 
 and three feet long. Many trees were seen from which the bark had 
 been taken, and others on which the shields were cut out, but not taken 
 away. The canoes are formed by hollowing out the trunk of a tree ; 
 and it was conjectured, that this operation must have been performed 
 by fire, as they did not appe:\r to have any instrument proper for the pur- 
 pose. The canoes are in length about fourteen feet, and so narrow that 
 thoy would be frequently overset, but are provided with outriggers. The 
 natives row them with paddles, using both hands in that employment. 
 
 They iiow held a northward course, within sight of laud, till the 3d of 
 September On the Gth passed two small islands ; on the 9th they saw 
 what had the appearance of land, and the ne.\t morning were convinced 
 it was Timor Laoet. On the 16th they had sight of the little ishmd called 
 Rotte, and the same day saw tlie Island of Savu, at a distance to the 
 southward of Timor, where, having obtained necessary refreshments, 
 Captain Cook prepared again for sailing. 
 
 Savu is situated in 10 degrees 35 minutes south latitude, and 237 de- 
 grees 30 minutes west longitude, and has hitherto been very little known, 
 or very imperfectly described. Its length is between twenty and thirty 
 miles. The harbour jn which the ship lay was called Seba, from a dis- 
 trict of the country so denominated ; and there are two other bays on 
 different parts of the island. 
 
 The natives are rather below the middle stature, their hair black and 
 straight, and persons of all ranks, as well those that are exposed to the 
 
244 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 weather as those that are not, have one general complexion, which is 
 dark biovvo. The men are well formed and sprightly, and their fealures 
 difTer much from each other : the women, on the contrary, have all one 
 set of features, and are very short and broad built. The dress of the 
 former consists of two pieces of cotton cloth, one of which is bound round 
 the middle, and the lower edge being drawn pretty tight between the 
 legs, the upper edge is left loose, so as to form a kind of pocket, in which 
 they carry knives and other things : the other piece being passed under 
 the former, on the back of the wearer, the ends of it are carried over the 
 shoulders, and tacked into the pocket before. Tiie women draw the 
 upper edge of tho piece found the waist tight, while the lower, dropping 
 to the knees, makrs a kind of petticoat : the other piece of cloth is fas- 
 tened across the breast and 'under the arms. This cloth,, which is manu- 
 factured by the natives, is died blue while in the yarn. 
 
 The island consists of five divisions, each of which has a raja, or chief 
 governor, of its own. These are called Timo, Massara, Ilegeeua, Laai, 
 and Scba. It was o.i this last division that our English adventurers went 
 on shore, the raja of which was between thirty and forty yeais of age, 
 and remarkable for his corpulency. He governs his people with the most 
 absolute authority, but takes on him very little of the parade or pomp of 
 royalty. The inhabitants are divided into five ranks ; the rajas, the land- 
 owners, manufacturer?, labourers, and slaves ; the land-owueis are re- 
 spected in proportion to the extent of their lards and the nu:uber of 
 their ijlaves, which last are bought and sold with the estates to which 
 they belong ; but when a slave is bought separately, a fat hog is the 
 price of the purchase. Though a man may sell his slave in this maniier, 
 or convey him with his lands, yet his power over him extends no farther, 
 for he must not even strike him without the raja's permission. A few 
 years ago the Dutch East India company made an agree. nent with the 
 several rajas of the island, by which it was covenanted, thst a quantity 
 of rice, maize, and calevances should be annually fumishcil to the Dutch, 
 who, in return, supply the rajas with arrack, cutlery wares, linen, silk, 
 and some other things. Small vessels, each of which is manned by ten 
 Indians, are sent from Timor to bring away the maize and calevances, 
 and a ship whi.'di brings the articles which are furnished by the Dutch 
 receives the rice on board once a year ; and there being three h?iys on 
 the coast, this vessel anchors in each of them in its turn. 
 
 The Endeavour sailed the 2l6t of September, 1770, and bent her co:jrse 
 westward. In the afternoon of this day a little flat island was discovered 
 in iO degrees 47 niinuies south latitude, and 238 degrees 28 minutes 
 west longitude, which has not been laid down in any of the charts hitherto 
 published. They made con.siderable way, till at length, by the assistance 
 of the sea breezes, they came to an anchor in the road of Batavia. At 
 this place they found a number of large Dutch vessels, the Harcourt 
 East Indiaman from England, which had lost her passage to China, and 
 two ships belonging to the private trade of our India company. 
 
 Tupia had been till this time very dangerou.sly ill ; Mr Banks now 
 sent for him to his house, in the hope that he might recover his health. 
 While in the ship, and even after he was put into the boat, he was indis- 
 posed and low-spirited iri the utmost degree ; but the moment he came 
 into the town, his whole frame appeared reanimated.' The houses, the car- 
 riages, the people, and many other objects, were totally new to him, and 
 astonishment look possession of his features at sights so wonderful ; but 
 if Tupia was astonished at the scen--^, his boy, Tayota, was perfectly en- 
 
JAMES COOK. 245 
 
 raptured, dancing along the street in an ecstasy of joy, and examining the 
 several objects as they presented themselves with the most earnest in- 
 quisitiveness and curiosity. Nothing struck Tupia so much as the variety 
 of dresses worn by the inhabitants of Batavia : he inquired the reason, 
 and being informed that the people were of a variety of nations, and that 
 all were dressed according to the mode of their own country, he requested 
 permission to follow the fashion : this request being readily complied 
 with, a person was despatched to the ship for some South Sea cloth, with 
 which he soon clothed himself in the dress of the inhabitants of Otaheite. 
 
 After little more than a week, the ill effects of the climate began to be 
 severely felt. Dr. Solander and Mr. Banks were indisposed with fevers •; 
 Mr. Banks's two servants were exceedingly ill ; the Indian boy, Tayota, 
 had an inflammation on his lungs ; and Tupia was so bad, that his life 
 was despaired of. Tayota paid the debt of nature on the 9th of this 
 month : and poor Tupia fell a victim to the ravages of his disorder, and 
 lo his grief for the deceased Tayota. When the latter was first seized 
 with the fatal disorder, he seemed sensible of his approaching end, and 
 Frequently said to those about him, Tyau mate, " My friends, I am dying :" 
 he was very tractable, and took any medicines that were offered to him ; 
 they were both buried in the Island of Edam. Since the arrival of the 
 ship, every person belonging to her had been ill, except the sailmaker, 
 who was more than seventy years old ; yet this man got drunk every day 
 while they remained there. The Endeavour buried seven of her people 
 — Tupia and his boy, three of the sailors, the servant of Mr. Green, the 
 astronomer, and the surgeon ; and, at the time of the vessel's sailing, 
 forty of the crew were sick, and the rest so enfeebled by their late illness 
 as to be scarcely able to do their duty. 
 
 The town of Batavia is situated in 6 degrees 10 minutes south latitude, 
 and 106 degrees 50 minutes east longitude. It is built on the bank of 
 a larwe bay, something more than twenty miles from the Strait of Sunda, 
 on the north side of the Island of Java, in low boggy ground. Several 
 small rivers, which rise forty miles up the country in the mountains of 
 Blaeuen Berg, discharge themselves into the sea at this place, having first 
 intersected the town in different directions. There are wide canals of 
 nearly stagnated water in almost every street, and as the banks of these 
 canals are planted with rows of trees, the effect is very agreeable ; but 
 they combine to render the air pestilential. 
 
 The method of building their houses seems to have been taught them 
 by the climate. On the ground floor there is no room but a large hall, a 
 corner of which is parted off for the transaction of business ; the hall has 
 two doors, which are commonly left open, and are opposite each other, 
 80 that the air passts freely through the room, in the middle of which 
 there is a court, which at once increases the draft of air and affords light 
 to the hall ; the stairs, v/hich are at one corner, lead to large and lofty 
 apartments above. The female slaves are not permitted to sit in any 
 place but in the alcove formed by the court ; and this is the usual dining 
 place of the family. 
 
 The environs of the town have a very pleasing appearance, and would, 
 in almost any other country, be an enviable situation. Gardens and 
 houses occupy the country for several miles. For the space of more than 
 thirty miles around the land is totally flat, except in two places, on one 
 of which the governor's country seat is built, and on the other they hold 
 a large market ; but neither of these places are higher than ten yards 
 from the level of the plain. At forty miles from the town the land rises 
 
 21* 
 
246 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 into hills, and the air is purified in a great degree : to this distance in 
 valids are sent by their pii^^sicians, when every other prospect of recovery 
 has failed, and the experiment succeeds in alatost every instance ; but 
 they no sooner return to town than their former disorders recur. 
 
 The fruits of this country are near forty in number, and of each of these 
 there are several species. Pine-apples grow in such abundance that they 
 vnHy be purchase, at the first hand, for the value of an English farthing. 
 The Batavians strew an immense number of flowers about their houses, 
 and are almost alw^ys burning some aromatic woods and gums. Thu 
 sweet-scented flowers of thi.s country are very numerous, many of which 
 are totally unknown in England. 
 
 The Island of Java produces goats, sheep, hogs, buffaloes, and horses. 
 The quantity of fish taken is astonishingly great, and all the kinds are 
 fine food, except a few which are very scarce ; yet such is the pride of 
 the inhabitants, that these few scarce sorts are sold at high rales, while 
 those that are plentiful arc sold for a mere trifle, nor are they eaten but by 
 the slaves. There is abundance of poultry, as excellent of their kinds as 
 tliose of England ; turkeys are immoderately dear, and pigeons not much 
 less so ; but geese, ducks, and fine large fowls are altogether as cheap. 
 
 On the 27th of December, 1770, the Endeavour left the road of Bata- 
 via, and, as many of the ship's crew, who had been very ill while at 
 Batavia, were now become much worse, the vessel was brought to an 
 anchor in the afternoon of the 5th, near Princess Island. A stay of ten 
 days occurred here, during which they purchased vegetables of various 
 kinds, fowls, deer, and turtle ; the anchor was weighed, and the vessel 
 once more put to sea. 
 
 After a passage in which they lost twenty-three more officers and men, 
 the ship was brought to an anchor oflf the Cape of Good Hope on the 
 15rh of March, 1771. The captain repaired instantly to the governor, 
 who said, that such refreshments as the country supplied should he cheer- 
 fully granted him ; on which a house was hired for the sick, who were 
 to have board and lodging for two shillings a day, each person. 
 
 Cape Town consists of near a thousand brick-houses, the outsidea of 
 which being generally plastered, they have a very pleasing appearance. 
 There is a canal in the main street, with two rows of oak trees oa its bor- 
 ders, which are in a more flourishing state than the other trees of this 
 country ; the streets, which cross each other at right angles, are very 
 spacious and handsome. The inhabitants are chiefly Dutch, or of Dutch 
 extraction : the women are pleasing in a high degree. The air is so 
 pure and salubrious, that a sick person, who goes thither from Europe, 
 often recovers his health in a short time ; but those who bring diseases 
 from the East Indies have not an equal chance of recovery. Although 
 the country is naturally so barren as scarcely to produce anything, yet 
 the industry of its inhabitants has so eff'ectually combated the hand of 
 nature, that there are few places where the necessaries of life are more 
 plentiful ; and even what are generally deemed luxuries are by no means 
 scarce. The Conetantia wine is known to be excellent, but the genuine 
 sort is made only at one particular vineyard, a few miles from the town. 
 The gardens produce many sorts of European and Indian fruits, and 
 almost all the common kind of vegetables. The cultivated fields yield 
 wheat and barley of equal quality with that of England. The sheep hava 
 tails of a very extraordinary size, many of which weigh upward of a 
 dozen pounds ; the meat of this animal, as well as of the ox, is very fine 
 food : the wool of the sheep is rather of the hairy kind, and the horns of 
 
Ji.3WES COOK. 247 
 
 the black cattle spread much wider than those of England, while the beast 
 himself is handsomer and lighter made. The cheese has a very indiffe- 
 rent flavour, but the butter is extremely good. The pork is nearly the 
 same as that of Europe ; and there is an abundance of goats, but the inha- 
 bitants do not cat their flesh. The country abounds in hares, altogether 
 like those of England ; there are several species of the antelope, plenty 
 of bustards, and two kinds of quails. 
 
 The Dutch company have a garden at the extremity of the high street, 
 which is more than half a mile in length, in the centre walk of which are 
 a number of fine oak trees. A small part of this garden is covered with 
 botanical plants, but all the rest is allotted to the production of the com- 
 mon vegetables for the kitchen : the whole is divided into squares by the 
 form of its walks, and each square is fenced in by oaks cut into small 
 hedges. There is a menagerie of beasts and birds, many of them known 
 in Europe, at the upper end of this garden ; and among the rest is the 
 kadou, a beast not less than a horse, which has those curious spiral 
 horns that have frequently found a place in the cabinets of the curious. 
 
 The native inhabitants of this country are usually dressed in a sheep- 
 skin thrown across the shoulders, and a Uttle pouch before, to which is 
 fixed a kind of belt, ornamented with bits of copper and beads : round 
 the waists of the women is abroad piece of leather, and rings of the same 
 round their ancles ; a few wear a kind of shoe made of the bark of a tree, 
 but the major part go barefooted ; both sexes adorn themselves with 
 bracelets and necklaces made of beads. None of these people reside at 
 a less distance than four days' journey from Cape Town, except a num- 
 ber of the poorer sort, who look after the cattle belonging to the Dutch 
 farmers, and are employed in various other menial offices. Most of the 
 Hottentots speak the Dutch language, without anything remarkable in 
 their manner ; yet, when they converse in their native language, they 
 frequently stop, and make a clucking with their tongues, which has a 
 most singular and ridiculous effect to the ears of a stranger ; and, exclu- 
 sive of this clucking, their language itself is scarcely sounded articulately. 
 They are modest to the utmost degree, and, though fond of singing and 
 dancing, can hardly be prevailed on to divert themselves with their favou- 
 rite amusements before strangers : both their singing and dancing are 
 alternately quick and slow in the utmost extreme. Some understand the 
 art of smelting and preparing copper, with which they make plates, and 
 wear them on their foreheads as an article of finery. They are also capa- 
 ble of making knives, superior to those they can purchase of the Dutch, 
 from whom they procure the iron. 
 
 They are so dexterous in throwing stones, that they will hit a mark, 
 not larger than a crown-piece, at the distance of a hundred yards. They 
 are likewise expert in the use of arrows and of the lance called an assa- 
 gay, the points of which they poison, sometimes with the venom of a 
 serpent, and sometimes with the juice of particular herbs, so that a wound 
 received from either is almost always mortal. 
 
 Quitting the cape, they came to an anchor off the Island of St. Helena 
 May 1st, and on the 4th the Endeavour sailed from the road of St. Helena, 
 together with the Portland man-of-war and several sail of Indiamen. 
 
 On the 23d lost sight of all the ships in company, and in the afternoon 
 of the same day Mr. Hicks, the first lieutenant^ died of a consumption, 
 with which he had been afflicted during the whole voyage. No single 
 occurrence worth recording happened from this time till the ship came to 
 an anchor in the Downs, on the i2th of June following. 
 
248 VOYAGES ROUND Tfl23 WORLD. 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK'S SECOND VOYAGE.— 1772-75, 
 
 (A second voyage being resolved upon, Captain Cook was appointed to the 
 Resolution, and Captain Furneaux, who had been with Captain Wallis, to 
 the Adventure, two ships which, from their construction, were supposed bet- 
 ter adapted to the service than any others.} 
 
 On the 13th of July, 1772, the two ships sailed from Plymouth Sound : 
 and on the evening of the 29th anchored in Funchiale Road, in the Island 
 of Madeira. 
 
 On the 9th of August made the Island of Bonavista. The next day 
 passed the Isle of Mayo on our right ; and the same evening anchored in 
 Port Praya, in the Island of St. Jago. On the 29th of October they 
 made the land of the Cape of Good Hope. Having finished their business 
 here, and taken leave of the governor and some others of the chief officers, 
 •who, with very obliging readiness, had given every assistance, on the 22d 
 of November weiglied, with the wind at north-by-west. In the morning 
 of the 10th of December made the signal for the Adventure to make sail 
 and lead. At eight o'clock saw an island of ice to the westward, being 
 then in the latitude of 50 degiees 40 minutes south, and longitude 2 
 degrees east of the Cape of Good Hope. 
 
 On the 9^th of February, when the weather cleared up, they could see 
 several leagues round, and found that the Adventure was not within the 
 limits of their horizon. At ten o'clock of the 25th of March, the land 
 of New Zealand was seen from the mast-head, and at noon from the 
 deck, extending from north-east-by-east to east, distant ten leagues. After 
 running about two leagues up Dusky Bay, and passing several of the isles 
 which lay in it, they brought-to, hoisted out two boats, and anchored in 
 fifty fathoms water, so near the shore as to reach it with a hawsei. 
 This was on Friday, the 26th of March, at three in the afternoon, after 
 having been 117 days at sea, in which time they had sailed 36G0 leagues, 
 without having once sight of land. 
 
 On the 27th, at nine o'clock in the morning, got under sail with a light 
 breeze at south-west, and working over to Pickersgill harbour, entered it 
 by a channel scarcely twice the width of the ship ; and in a small creek 
 moored head and stern, so near the shore as to reach it with a brow or 
 stage, which nature had in a manner prepared in a large tree, whose end or 
 top reached the gunwale. In the evening they had a short interview with 
 three of the natives, one man and two women. They were the first that 
 discovered themselves on the north-east point of Indian Island, named 
 so on this occasion ; the man hallooed to them. He stood with his club 
 in his hand upon the point of a rock, and behind, at the skirts of the 
 wood, stood the two women, each with a spear. The man could not 
 help discovering great signs of fear when they approached the rock with 
 the boat. He, however, stood firm ; nor did he move to take up some 
 things they threw him ashore. At length Captain Cook landed, went 
 up and embraced him, and presented him with such articles as at once 
 dissipated his fears. Presently after they were joined by the two women, 
 the other gentlemen, and some of the seamen. After this they spent 
 about half an hour in chit-chat, little understood on either side, in which 
 the youngeat of the two women bore by far the greatest share. This 
 occasioned one of the seamen to say, that women did not want tongue 
 in any part of the world. Having fine geese left out of those brought 
 
JAMES COOK* 249 
 
 horn the Cape of Good Hope, they went with them next morning to 
 Goose Cove (named so on this account.) They chose this place, for 
 here are no inhabitants to disturb them ; and, secondly, here being the 
 most food, they will breed, and may in time spread over the whole coun- 
 try, and fully answer the intention in leaving them. At nine o'clock, 
 the 11th of April, weighed, with a light breeze at south-east, and stood 
 out to sea. 
 
 The country is exceedingly mountainous, not only about Dusky Bay, 
 but throughout all the southern part of this western coast of Tavai Poe- 
 nammoo. But the land bordering on the sea-coast, and all the islands, 
 are thickly clothed with wood, almost down to the water's edge. The 
 trees are of various kind?, such as are common to other parts of thi:* 
 country, and are fit for the shipwright, house-carpenter, cabinet-maker, 
 and many other uses. Except on the River Thames, there is not finer 
 timber in all New Zealand. What Dusky Bay abounds with is fish ; a 
 boat with six or eight men, with hooks and lines, caught daily sufficient 
 to serve the whole ship's company. Of this article the variety is almost 
 equal to the plenty. 
 
 The shell-fish are muscles, cockles, scallops, cray-fish, and many other 
 sorts. The only amphibiotis animals are seals ; these are to be found 
 in great numbers about this bay, on the small rocks and isles near the sea- 
 coast. After leaving Dusky Bay, they directed their course along-shore 
 for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where they expected to find the Adventure. 
 The wind having returned to the west, they resumed their course to the 
 east ; and at daylight the next morning (being the 18th) appeared off 
 Queen Charlotte's Sound, and discovered their consort the Adventure 
 by the signals she made, an event which every one felt with an agreeable 
 satisfaction. Early in the morning of the 24lh sent Mr. Gilbert, the 
 master, to sound about the rock discovered in the entrance of the sound. 
 Cook, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forsler, went in a 
 boat to the west bay on a shooting party. On their way, met a large 
 canoe, in which were fourteen or fifteen people. One of the first ques- 
 tions they asked was for Tupia, the person brought from Otaheite on the 
 former voyage ; and they seemed to express some concern when told he. 
 was dead. These people made the same inquiry of Captain Furneaux 
 when he first arrived, and, on returning to the ship in the evening, they 
 were told that a canoe had been alongside, the people in which seemed 
 to be strangers, and who also inquired for Tupia. On the 2d of June, 
 the ships being nearly ready to put to sea, they sent on shore, on the 
 east side of the sound, two goats, male and female. Captain Furneaux 
 also put on shore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding sows ; so 
 that they had reason to hope this country would in time be slocked with 
 these animals, if not destroyed by the natives before they became wild, 
 for afterward they will be in no danger. 
 
 On the 7th of June, at four in the morning, weighed and put to sea, 
 witli the Adventure in company. On the 11th of August, at daybreak, 
 land was seen to the south. This, upon a nearer approach, was found 
 to be an island of about two leagues in extent, in the direction of north- 
 west and south-east, and clothed with wood, above which the cocoa nut 
 trees showed their lofty heads. It hes in the latitude of 17 degrees 24 
 minutea, longitude 141 degrees 39 minutes west, and was called, after 
 the name of the ship, Resolution.Island. 
 
 At daybreak, the next morning, discovered land right ahead, distant 
 about two railes. This proved another of these low or half-drowned 
 
250 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLO. 
 
 islands, or rather a large coral shoal of about twenty leagues in circuit. 
 A very small part of it was land, which consisted of little isles ranged 
 along the north side, and connected by sand-banks and breakers. I'his 
 island was named after Captain Furneaux. The next morning, at four 
 o'clock, made sail, and at daybreak saw another of these low islands, 
 situated in the latitude of 17 degrees 4 minutes, longitude 144 degrees 
 80 minutes west, which obtained the name of Adventure Island. M. do 
 Bougainville very properly calls this cluster of low overflowed isles the 
 Dangerous Archipelago. 
 
 On the 15th, at five o'clock in the morning, saw Osnaburgh Island, or 
 Maitea, discovered by Captain Wallis. At daybreak found themselves 
 not more than half a league from the reef of Otaheite. A number of thef 
 inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts, bringing a little fish, 
 a few cocoa nuts, and other fruits, which they exchanged for nails, beads, 
 &c. ' The most of them knew Captain Cook again, and many inquired 
 for Mr. Banks and others who were there before ; but not one asked 
 for Tupia. 
 
 The next morning, being the 17th, they anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay, 
 in twelve fathoms water, about two cablea' length from the shore. It 
 was not till now that any one inquired after Topia, and then but two or 
 three. As soon ae they learned the cause of his death, they were quite 
 satisfied ; indeed it did not appear that it would have caused a moment's 
 uneasiness in the breast of any one, had his death been occasioned by 
 any other means than by sickness ; as little inquiry was made after 
 Autourou, the man who went away with M. de Bougainville. But they 
 were continually asking for Mr. Banks, and several others who were in 
 the former voyage. These people said, that Toutaha, the regent of tho 
 greater Peninsula of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle which was 
 fought between the two kingdoms about five months before, and that 
 Otoo was the reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and several more 
 friends about Matavai, fell in this battle, as also a great number of com- 
 mon people ; but at present peace subsisted between the two kingdoms. 
 
 Before they got to an auf'hor in Matavai Bay, their decks were crowd- 
 ed with the natives ; many of whom the captain knew, and almost 
 all of them knew him. On the 27th Otoo, attended by a numerous 
 train, paid them a visit. • He first sent into the ship a large quantity of 
 cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fish ; and, after some persuasion, came 
 aboard himself, with his sister, a younger brother, and several more of 
 his attendants. To all of them were made presents ; and after breakfast 
 the captain took th€ king, his sister, and as many more as he had room 
 for, into his boat, and carried them home to Oparee. Be had no sooner 
 landed than he was met by a venerable old lady, the .mother of the late 
 Toutaha. She seized both his hands, and burst into a flood of tears, 
 saying, Toutaha Tiyo no TcUtee malty Toutaha — (Toutaha, your friend, 
 or the friend of Cook, is dead.) Captain Furneaux presented the king 
 with two fine goats, male and female, which, if taken care of, will no 
 doubt multiply. Soon after they were conducted to the theatre, and 
 entertained with a dramatic heava, or play, in which were both dancing 
 and comedy. The performers were five men and one woman, who was 
 no less a person than the king's sister. The music consisted of three 
 drums only ; it lasted about an hour and a half or two hours, and upon 
 the whole was well conducted. It was not possible to find out the mean- 
 ing of the play. It apparently differed in nothing, that is, in the manner 
 ef a-cting it, from those at Uiietea in the former voyage. The dancing- 
 
JAMES COOK. 251 
 
 dress of the lady was more elegant than any seen there, by being decorated 
 with long tassels, made of feathers, hanging from the waist downward. 
 
 On the Ist of September the shipb unmoored. Some hours before 
 they got under sail, a young man, whose name was Poreo^ came and de- 
 sired the captain would take him with him ; who consented, thinking he 
 might be of service on some occasion. As soon as they <vere clear of the 
 bay, they directed their course for the Island of Huaheine, and made it the 
 next day. At daylight, in the morning of the 3d, made sail for the harbour of 
 Owharre, in which the Resolution anchored about nine o'clock, in 
 twenty-four fathoms water. The good old chief, Oree, made them a visit 
 early in the mOrnihg on the 5th, together with some of his friends, bring- 
 ing a hog and some fruit, for which they made him a suitable return. He 
 carried his kindness so far, as not to fail to send every day the very best 
 of ready-dressed fruit and roots, and in great plenty. Biefore they quit- 
 ted this island, Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on board his ship a 
 young man named Omai, a native of Ulietea, where he had some pro- 
 perty, of which he had been dispossessed by the people of Bolabola. 
 
 They now made sail for Ulietea. Arriving off the harbour of Ohama- 
 neno at the close of the day, they spent the night making short tacks. 
 Next morning they paid a formal visit to Oreo, the chief of this part of 
 the isle, carrying the necessary presents. They went through a sort of 
 ceremony at landing, but were at once conducted to him. He was seat- 
 ed in his own house, which stood near the water-side, where he and his 
 friends received them with great cordiality. He expressed much satis- 
 faction at seeing the captain again, and desired they might exchange 
 names ; this is the strtJngest mark of friendship they can show to a stran- 
 ger. He inquired after Tupia, and all the gentlemen, by name, who were 
 with him when he first visited the island. 
 
 After leaving Ulietea, they steered to the west, inclining to the south, 
 to get clear of the tracts of former navigators, and to get into the latitude 
 of the Islands of Middleburg and Amsterdam. At two o'clock, P. M., on 
 the 1st of October, made Middleburg, bearing west-south-west. In the 
 meantime, two canoes, each conducted by two or three men, came boldly 
 alongside ; and some of them entered the ship without hesitation. As 
 soon as all were on board, they made sail down to Amsterdam. The 
 people of this isle were so little afraid, that some met them in three 
 canoes about midway between the two isles. Mr. Forster and his party 
 spent the day in the country botanizing; and several of the officers were 
 out shooting. All of them were very civilly treated by the natives. They 
 had also a brisk trade for bananoes, cocoa nuts, yams, pigs, and fowls ; 
 all of which were procured for nails and pieces of cloth. A boat from 
 each ship was employed in trading ashore, and bringing off their cargoes 
 as soon as they were laden, which was generally in a short time. By 
 this method they got cheaper, and with less trouble, a good quantity of 
 fruit, as well as other refreshments, from people who had no canoes to 
 carry them off to the ships. 
 
 These islands were first discovered by Captain Tasman, in January, 
 1643, and by him called Amsterdam and Middleburg. But the former is 
 called by the natives Ton-ga-ta-boo, and the latter Ea-oo-wee. Middle- 
 burg, or Eaoowee, which is the southernmost, is about ten leagues in 
 circuit, and of a height .»iifticient to be seen twelve leagues. The skirts 
 of this isle *re mostly taken up in the plantations ; the south-west and 
 north-west sides especially. The interior parts are but little cultivated, 
 though very fit for cultivation. The anchorage, named English Road, 
 
252 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 being the first who anchored there, is on the north-west aide, in latitude 
 21 degrees 20 minutes and 30 seconds south. The island is shaped some- 
 thing like an isosceles triangle, the longest sides whereof are seven leagues 
 each, and the shortest four. It lies nearly in the direction of east-south- 
 east and west-north-west ; is nearly all of an equal height, rather low, 
 not exceeding sixty or eighty feet above the level of the sea 
 
 Amsterdam, or Tongataboo, is wholly laid out in plantations, in which 
 are planted some of the richest productions of nature, such as bread fruit, 
 cocoa nut trees, plantains, bananoss^ shaddocks, yams, and some other 
 roots, sugar-cane, and a fruit like a nectarine, called by Fighegea, and at 
 Otaheite Aheeya; m short, here are most of the articles which the Society 
 Islands produce, besides some which they have not. 
 
 The lanes or roads necessary for travelling are laid out in so judicious 
 a manner, as to open a free and easy communication from one part of the 
 island to the other. Here are no towns or villages ; most of the houses 
 are built in the plantations, with no other order than what conveniency 
 requires ; they are neatly constructed, but do not exceed those in the 
 other isles. The materials of which they are built are the same ; and 
 some little variation in the disposition of the framing is all the difference 
 in their construction. They saw no domestic animals but hogs and fowls : 
 the former are of the same sort as at the other isles in this sea ; but the 
 latter are far superior, being as large as any in Europe, and their flesh 
 equally good, if not better. They saw no dogs, and beheve they have 
 none, as they were exceedingly desirous of those on board. Cook's friend, 
 Attago, was complimented with a dog and a bitch, the one from New 
 Zealand, the other from Ulietea. The name of a dog with them is kooree 
 or gooree, the same as at New Zealand, which shows that they are not 
 wholly strangers to them. 
 
 The two vessels which compose the double canoe are each about sixty 
 or seventy feet long, and four or five broad in the middle, and each end 
 terminates nearly in a point. Two such vessels are fastened together, 
 parallel to each other, about six or seven feet asunder, by strong cross- 
 beams secured by bandages to the upper part of the risings. Over these 
 beams and others which are supported by stanchions lixed on the bodies 
 of the canoss, is laid a boarded platform. All the parts which compose 
 the double canoe are made as strong and light as the nature of the work 
 will admit, and may be immerged in water to the very platform without 
 being in danger of filling. Nor is it possible, under any circumstances 
 whatever, for them to sink, so long as they hold together. Thus they 
 are not only vessels of burden, but fit for distant navigation. They are 
 rigged v/ith one mast, with steps upon the platform, and can easily be 
 raised or taken down ; and are sailed with a latteen sail, or triangular one, 
 extended by a long yard, which is a little bent or crooked. Their work- 
 ing tools are made of stone, bone, shells, &c., as at the other islands. 
 Their knowledge of the utility of iron was no more than sufficient to teach 
 them to prefer nails to beads and such trifles : some, but very few, would 
 exchange a pig for a large nail or a hatchet. Old jackets, shirts, cloth, 
 and even rags, were in more esteem than the best edge-tool ; consequently, 
 they got bu^ few axes but what were given as presents. 
 
 Both men and women are of a common size with Europeans, and theii 
 colour is that of a lightish copper, and more uniformly so than among the 
 inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Isles. 
 
 The women are the merriest creatures they ever met wi^h, and will 
 kaep chatting without the least invitation, or considering whether they 
 
JAMES COOK. 
 
 253 
 
 afe understood, provided one does but seem pleased with them. In ge- 
 neral they appeared to be modest ; although there was no want of those 
 of a different stamp. 
 
 In the afternoon, on the 8th of October, made the Island of Pilstart. 
 This island, which was also discovered by Tasman, is situated in the 
 latitude of 22 degrees 26 minutes south, longitude 175 degrees 59 minutes 
 west. On the 21st made the land of New Zealand ; at noon Table Cape 
 bore west, distant eight or ten leagues. November 2d a gale abated, and 
 was succeeded by a few hours' calm ; after that a breeze sprung up at 
 r.orth-west, with which they weighed and ran up into Ship Cove, where 
 they did not find the Adventure, which had separated a day or two before 
 from not observing a signal, as was expected in Queen Charlotte's 
 Sound. 
 
 In the afternoon some of the officers went on shore to amuse them- 
 selves among the natives, where they saw the head and bowels of a youth, 
 ivho had lately been killed, lying on the beach, and the heart stuck on a 
 forked stick, which was fixed to the head of one of the largest canoes. 
 One of the gentlemen bought the head and brought it on board, where a 
 piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the natives, before all 
 the officers and most of the men. That the New Zealanders are canni- 
 bals, can now no longer be doubted. 
 
 On the 25th, early in the morning, they weighed, with a small breeze, 
 out of the cove. On the 26th took their departure from Cape Palliscr, 
 and steered to the south, inclining to the east, having a favourable gale 
 from the north-west and south-west. At four o'clock, 12th of December, 
 being in the latitude of 62 degrees 10 minutes south, longitude 172 de- 
 grees west, saw the first ice island, llj degrees farther south than the 
 first ice seen on the preceding year, after leaving the Cape of Good 
 Hope. The 17th, falling in with a quantity of loose ice, they hoisted out 
 two boats ; and by noon got on board as much as they could manage. 
 The clear weather, and the wind veering to north-west, tempted them to 
 steer south ; which course they continued till seven in the morning of 
 the 20th, when the wind changing to north-east, and the sky becoming 
 clouded, they hauled up south-east. In the afternoon the wind increased 
 to a strong gale, attended with a thick fog, snow, sleet, and rain. The 
 rigging at this time was so loaded with ice that they had enough to do 
 to get the topsails down to double the reef January 1st, the wind re- 
 mained not long at east, but veered round by the south to west ; blew 
 fresh, attended with snow showers. In the evening, being in the latitude 
 of 58 degrees 39 minutes south, passed two islands of ice ; after which 
 saw no more till they stood again to the south. 
 
 On the 30th, at four o'clock in the morning, perceived the clouds over 
 the horizon to the south to be of an tmusual snow-white brightness, which 
 they knew denounced their approach to field-ice. 
 
 Captain Cook here says : " I will not say it was impossible anywhere 
 to get farther to the south ; but the attempting it would have been a danger- 
 ous and rash enterprise, and what, I believe, no man in my situation would 
 have thought of It was, indeed, my opinion, as well as the opinion of 
 most on board, that this ice extended quite to the pole, or perhaps joined 
 to some land, to which it had been fixed from the earliest time ; and that 
 it is here (that is, ta the south of this parallel) where all the ice we find 
 scattered up and down to the north is first formed, and afterward broken 
 off by gales of wind, or other causes, and brought to the north by the 
 currents, which we always found to set in that direction in the high lati-_ 
 
 22 
 
2ti VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 tudes. As we drew near this ice some penguins were heard, but none 
 seen ; and but few other birds, or any other thing that could induce us 
 to think any land was near. And yet I think there must be some to the 
 south behind this ice ; but if there is, it can afford no better retreat for 
 birds, or any other animals, than the ice itself, with which it must be 
 wholly covered. I, who had ambition not only to go farther than any one 
 had been before, but as far as it was possible for man to go, was not sorry 
 at meeting with this interruption, as it in some measure relieved us, at 
 least shortened the dangers and hardships inseparable from the navigation 
 of the southern polar regions. Since, therefore, we could not proceed 
 one inch farther to the south, no other reason need be assigned for my 
 tacking and standing back to the north : being at this time in the lati- 
 tude of 71 degrees 10 minutes south, longitude 106 degrees 54 minutes 
 west." 
 
 Steering north from this time, at eight o'clock in the morning, on the 
 nth of March, .land was seen from the mast-head, bearing west ; and at 
 noon, from the deck, extending from west three-quarters north to west by 
 south, about twelve leagues distant. They made no doubt that this was 
 Davis's Land, or Easter Island, as its appearance from this situation 
 Corresponded very well with Wafer's account ; and they expected to have 
 seen the low sandy isle that Davis fell in with, which would have been a 
 confirmaton ; but in this were disappointed. In the mean time, sent away 
 the master in a boat to sound the coast. He returned about five o'clock 
 in the evening ; and soon after they came to an anchor in thirty-six fathoms 
 water, before a sandy beadh. As the master drew near shore with the 
 boat', one of the natives swam off to her, and insisted on coming aboard 
 the ship, where he remained two nights and a day. The first thing he 
 did after coming aboard, was to measure the length of the ship, by fathom- 
 ing her from the taffrail to the stem ; and as he counted the fathoms, 
 they observed that he called the numbers by the same names that they 
 do at Otaheite ; nevertheless, his language was in a manner wholly unin- 
 telligible to all on board. 
 
 Captain Cook landed at the sandy beach, where some hundreds of the 
 natives were assembled, and who were so impatient to see them, that 
 many swam off to meet the boats. Not one had so much as a stick or 
 weapon of any sort in his hand. After distributing a few trinkets 
 among them, the officers made signs for something to eat ; on which 
 they brought down a few potatoes, plantains, and sugar-canes, and 
 exchanged them for nails, looking-glasses, and pieces of cloth. 
 
 They presently discovered that they were as expert thieves, and as trick- 
 ing in their exchanges, as any people yet met with. It was with some 
 difficulty the officers could keep their hats on their heads ; but hardly 
 possible to keep anythhig in their pockets, not even what the natives had 
 sold them ; for they would watch every opportunity to snatch it again, so 
 that the officers sometimes bought the same thing two or three times over, 
 and after all did not get it. 
 
 The inhabitants do not seem to exceed six or seven hundred souls, and 
 above two-thirds of those Were males. They either have but few females 
 among them, or else many were restrained from making their appearance 
 during their stay ; for though they saw nothing to induce them to believe 
 the men were of a jealous disposition, or the womeo afraid to appear in 
 public, something of this kind was probably the case. In colour, features, 
 and language, they bear such a resemblance to the people of the more 
 western isles, that no one will doubt they have had the same origin. 
 
JAMES cook ' 255 
 
 The gigantic statues so often mentioned are not, in their opinion, 
 looked upon as idols by the present inhabitants, whatever they might have 
 been in the days of the Dutch ; at least they saw nothing that could in- 
 duce them to think so. The statues, or at least many of them, are 
 erected on platforms, which serve aS foundations. They are, as near as 
 they could judge, about half length, ending in a sortof etump at the hot* 
 torn, on which they stand. The workmanship is rude, but not bad ; ncfr 
 are the features of the face ill formed, the nose and chin in particular ; 
 but the ears are long beyond proportion : and as to the bodies, there is 
 hardlv anything like a human figure about them. 
 
 After leaving Easter Island they steered north-west by north and north- 
 north-west, with a fine easterly gale, intending to touch at the Mar* 
 quesas. 
 
 They continued to steer to the west till the 6th of April, at four in the 
 afternoon, at which time, being in the latitude of 9 degrees 20 minutes, 
 longitude 133 degrees 14 minutes west, they discovered an island, bear- 
 ing west by south, distant about nine leagues. Two hours after saw 
 another, bearing south-west by south, which appeared more extensive than 
 the former. By this time they were well assured that these were the 
 Marquesas, discovered by Mendana in 1595. The first isle was a new 
 discovery, which was named Hood's Island, after the young gentleman 
 who lirst saw it : the second was that of St. Pedro ; the third Le Pomi- 
 nica ; and the fourth St. Christina. Very early next morning the natives 
 visited them in great numbers, bringing bread fruit, plantains, and one pig, 
 flU of which they exchanged for nails, &c. But in this traffic they would 
 frequently keep the goods and make no return, till at last they were 
 .obliged to fire a musket ball over one man, who had several times served 
 them in this manner ; after which they dealt more fairly, and soon after 
 several came on board. 
 
 The Marquesas are five in number, viz., La Magdalena, St. Pedro, La 
 Dominica, Santa Christina, ai^d Hood's Island, which is the northermost,- 
 situated in latitude 9 degrees 26 minutes south, and 13 degrees west, 
 five leagues and a half distant from the east point of La Dominica, which 
 is the largest of all the isles, extending east and west six leagues. 
 
 The port of Madre de Dios, now named Resolution Bay, is situated 
 near the middle of the west side of St.. Christina, and under the highest 
 land on the island. In the bay, which is near three-quarters of a mile 
 deep, and has from thirty-four to twelve fathoms water, with a clean sandy 
 bottom, are tv/o sandy Coves, divided from each other by a rocky point. 
 In each is a rivulet of excellent water. The northoru cove is the most 
 commodious for wooding and watering. Kere is the little water-fall 
 mentioned by Quiros, Mendaua's pilot ; but the town, or village, is in the 
 other cove. The inhabitants collectively are, without exception, the 
 finest race of people in this sea. For fine shape and regular features, 
 they perhaps surpass all other nations. Nevertheless, the affinity of their 
 language to that spoken in the Otaheite and the Society Isles, show that 
 they are of the same nation. 
 
 The men are punctured, or curiously tattoced, from head to foot. The 
 figures are various, and seem directed more by fancy than custom. These 
 puncturations make them look dark ; but the women, who are but little 
 punctured, youths, and young children, who are not at all, are as fair as 
 Gome Europeans. With a fine easterly wind they steered south-west, 
 fiouth-west by west, and west by south, till the 17th, at ten o'clock in 
 the morning, when land was seen bearing north-west, which, upon a 
 
250 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 nearer approacli, was found to be a string of low isles, connected toge 
 ther by a reef of coral rocks. This island, which is called by the inhabi 
 tants Tioo-kea, was discovered and visited by Commodore Byron. .Oi 
 the 18th, at daybreak, after having spent the night making short boards, 
 wore down to another isle in sight to the west-ward, which they reaches 
 by eight o'clock, and ranged the south-east side at one mile from shore. 
 These must be the same islands to which Commodore Byron gave the 
 name of George's Islands. 
 
 On the 19lh, at seven in the morning, land was seen to the westward. 
 It proved to be another of these half overflowed or drowned islands, 
 which are so common to this part of the ocean ; that is, a number of 
 little isles ranged in a circular form, connected together by a reef or 
 wall of coral rock. 
 
 As they drew near the south end, saw from the mast-head another of 
 these low isles bearing south-east, distant about four or five leagues ; but, 
 being to wiiidvvard, could not reach it. Soon after a third appeared, bear- 
 ing south-west by south, for which they steered ; and at two o'clock, 
 P. M., reached the east end, which is situated in latitude 15 degrees 47 
 minutes south, longitude 146 degrees 30 minutes west. 
 
 They made the high. land of Otaheite on the 21st, and at noon were 
 about thirteen leagues east of Point Venus, for which they steered, and 
 got pretty well in with it by sunset, when they shortened sail ; and at 
 eight o'clock the next morning anchored in Matavai Bay. This was no 
 sooner known to the natives, than many made a visit, and expressed not 
 a little joy at seeing them again. On the 24th, Otoo, the king, and several 
 other chiefs, with a train of attendants, paid a visit, and brought as 
 presents ten or a dozen large hogs, besides fruits, which made them 
 exceedingly welcome. 
 
 On the 26th Captain Cook went down to Oparee, accompanied by 
 some of the officers and gentlemen, to pay Otoo a visit by appointment. 
 As they drew near, they observed a number of large canoes in motion J 
 but were surprised to see npward of 300 ranged in order, for some 
 distance along the shore, all completely equipped and manned, besides a 
 vast number of armed men upon the shore. The vessels of war con- 
 sisted of 160 large double canoes, very well equipped, manned, and armed. 
 The chiefs, and all those on the fighting stages, were dressed in the war 
 habits ; that is, in a vast quantity of cloth, turbans, breast-plates, and 
 helmets : some of the latter were of such a length as greatly to incum- 
 ber the wearer. Indeed their v/hole dress seemed to be ill calculated 
 for the day of battle, and to be designed more for show than use. The 
 vessels were decorated with flags, streamers, <fec. ; so that the whole made 
 a noble appearance, such as they had never seen before in this sea, and 
 what no one would have expected. Their instruments of war were clubs, 
 spears, and stones. The vessels were ranged close alongside of each 
 other, with their heads ashore and their stern to the sea ; the admiral's 
 vessel being nearly in the centre. Besides the vessels of war, there 
 were 170 sail of smaller double canoes, all with a little house upon them, 
 and rigged with mast and sail, which the war canoes had not. These 
 were designed for transports, victuallers, &c. ; for the war canoes contained 
 no sort of provision whatever. In these 330 vessels there were no less 
 than 7760 men ; a number which appears incredible, especially as we 
 were told they all belonged to the districts of Attahourou and Ahopatea. 
 In this computation they allowed to eacli war canoe forty men, troops 
 and rowers, and to each of the small canoes eight. Most of the gentle* 
 
JAMES COOK. 257 
 
 men thought the number of men belonging to the war canoes exceeded 
 this. When they got to Matavai, their I'riends there told them, that this 
 fleet was part of the armament intended to go against Eimeo, whose 
 chief had thrown off the yoke of Otaheite, and assumed an independency. 
 
 In the afternoon of the 15th they anchored in the north entrance of 
 O'Wharre harbour, in the Island of Huaheine. In the evening some of 
 the gentlemen went to a dramatic entertainment. The piece represented 
 a girl as running away with them from Otaheile ; which was in some 
 degree true, as a young woman had taken a passage down to Ulietea, 
 and happened now to be present at the representation of her own adven- 
 tures ; it had such an effect upon her, that it was with great difficulty 
 the gentlemen could prevail upon her to see the play out, or to refrain 
 from tears while, it was acting. The piece concluded with the reception 
 she was supposed to meet with from her friends on her return ; which 
 was not a very favourable one. 
 
 The 23d, wind easterly, as it had been ever since they left Otaheite. 
 Early in the morning unmoored, and at eight weighed and put to sea. 
 As soon as they were clear of the harbour, made sail, and stood over for 
 the south end of Ulietea. Next day they warped the ship into a proper 
 birth, and moored her, so as to command all the shores around. In the 
 meantime a party went ashore to pay the chief a visit, and to make the 
 customary present. 
 
 On the 31st the people, knowing they should sail soon, began to bring 
 more fruit on board than usual. Among those who came was a young 
 man, who measured six feet four inches and six- tenths ; and his sister, 
 younger than him, measured tive feet ten inches and a half. A brisk 
 trade for hogs and fruit continued on the 1st of June. On the 2d, in the 
 afternoon,, got intelligence that three days before two ships had arrived at 
 Huaheine. The same report said, the one was commanded by Mr. 
 Banks, and the other by Captain Furneaux, The man who brought \^e 
 account said, he was made drunk on board one of them, and described 
 the persons of Mr. Banks and Captain Furneaux so well that they had 
 not the least doubt of the truth, and began to consider about sending a 
 boat over that very evening with orders to Captain Furneaux, when a 
 man, a friend of Mr. Forster, happened to come on board, and denied the 
 whole, saying it was wa warre, a lie. 
 
 They did not get clear of their friends till eleven o'clock, when they 
 weighed and put to sea ; but Oedidee did not leave them till almost out 
 of the harbour. He staid in order to fire some guns ; for it being his 
 majesty's birth-day, they fired the salute at going away. 
 
 On the 6th, being the day after leaving Ulietea, at eleven o'clock, A. M., 
 they saw land bearing north-west. This is Howe Island, discovered 
 by Captain Wallis. About half an hour after sunrise land was seen from 
 the topmast-head, bearing north-north-east, and named it Palmerston 
 Island, in honour of Lord Palmerston, one of the lords of the admiralty. 
 At four o'clock in the afternoon they left this isle, and resumed their course 
 to the west by south, with a fine steady gale easterly, till noon on the 
 20th. Soon after, they saw land from the mast-head, and found it to be 
 an island which, at five o'clock, bore west, distant five leagues. The 
 conduct and aspect of the islanders occasioned their naming it Savage 
 Island. It is situated in latitude 19 degrees 1 minute south, longitude 
 169 degree 37 minutes v;est. It is about eleven leagues in circuit, of 
 a round form, and good height ; and has deep water close to its shores. 
 At daybreak next morning, bore away west ; and soon after saw a string 
 
258 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 of islands, extending from south-south-west, by the west to north-north- 
 west. Toward noon some canoes came off from one of the isles, having 
 two or three people in each, who advanced boldly alongside, and ex- 
 changed some cocoa nuts and shaddocks for small nails. They pointed 
 out Anamocka or Rotterdam ; an advantage they derived from knowing 
 the proper names. 
 
 Before ihey had well got to an anchor, the natives came off from all 
 parts in canoes, bringing yams and shaddocks, which they exchanged for 
 small nails and old rags. One man, taking a vast liking to the lead and 
 line, got hold of it, and cut the line with a stone ; but a discharge of 
 small shot made him return it. The inhabitants, productions, &c., of 
 Rotterdam and the neighbouring isles are the same as at Amsterdam. 
 Hogs and fowls are scarcer ; of the former having got- but six, and not 
 many of the latter. Yams and shaddocks were what they got the most 
 of; other fruits were not so plenty. Not half of the isle is laid out in 
 enclosed plantations, as at Amsterdam ; but the parts which are not 
 enclosed are not less fertile or uncultivated. 
 
 On the 1st of July, at sunrise, Amattafoa was still in sight, bearing 
 east-north-east, distant twenty leagues. Continuing the course to the 
 west, the next day, at noon, discovered land bearing north-west by west. 
 The 16th, the weather was foggy, and the wind blew in heavy squalls, 
 attended with rain, which in this ocean generally indicates the vicinity of 
 some high land. This was verified at three in the afternoon, when high 
 land was seen bearing south-west. They had no sooner anchored than 
 several of the natives came otl in canoes. They were very cautious at 
 first : but at last trusted themselves alongside, and exchanged arrows for 
 pieces of cloth ; some of which were pohited with bone, and dipped in 
 some green gummy substance, which they supposed was poisonous. Two 
 men having ventured on board, after a short stay, were sent away with 
 piesents. The people of MallicoUo seemed to be a quite different nation 
 from any they had yet met with, and speak a different language. Of about 
 eighty words which Mr. Forster collected, hardly one bears any affiniy 
 to the language spoken at any other island or place they had ever been 
 at. The harbour on the north-east side of MaUicollo, not far from 
 the south-east end, in latitude 16 degrees 25 minutes 20 seconds south, 
 longitude 167 degrees 57 minutes 23 seconds east, was named Port 
 Sandwich. 
 
 Continuing a course to the south, at five, P. M., they drew near the 
 southern lands, which were found to consist of one large island, and three 
 or four smaller ones lying off its north side. The northernmost two aro 
 much the largest, have a good height, and lie in the direction of east by 
 south and west' by north from each other, distant two leagues. They 
 named the one Montagu, the other Hinchinbroke, and the large island 
 Sandwich. At sunrise, having discovered a new land bearing south, 
 making three hills, this occasioned them to tack and stand toward it. 
 Many of the natives got together in parties on several parts of the shore, 
 all armed with bows, spears, &c. Some swam off ; others came in canoes. 
 At first they were shy, and kept at the distance of a stone's throw : they 
 grew insensibly bolder ; and at last came under the stern, and made 
 some exchanges. During the night a volcano, which was about four miles 
 to the west, vomited up vast quantities of fire and smoke, as it had also 
 done the night before ; at every eruption it made a long rumbling noise, 
 like that of thunder or the blowing up of large mines. 
 
 The preceding day Mr. Forster learned from the people the proper name 
 
JAMES COOK. 259 
 
 of the island, which they call Tanna. The produce is bread fruit, plan- 
 tains, cocoa nut.s, a fruit like a nectarine, yams, tarra, a sort of potatoe, 
 sugar-cane, wild figs, a fruit like an orange, which is not eatable, and 
 other fruits and nuts. The bread fruit, cocoa nuts, and plantains, are 
 neither so plentiful nor so good as at Otaheite ; on the other hand, sugar- 
 canes and yams are not only in greater plenty, but of superior quality, and 
 much larger. Hogs did not seem to be scarce, but they saw not many 
 fowls. These are the only domestic animals they have. Land birds are 
 not more numerous than at Otaheite and the other islands. The people 
 are of the middle size, rather slender ; many are little, but few tall or 
 stout ; the most of them have good features and agreeable countenances ; 
 are, like all the tropical race, active and nimble ; and seem to excel in 
 the use of arms, but not to be fond of labour. Both sexes are of a very 
 dark colour, but not black ; nor have they the least characteristic of the 
 negro about them. They make themselves blacker than they really are, 
 by painting their faces with a pigment of the colour of black lead. Th«ay 
 named the harbour Port Resolution, after the ship, she being the first 
 which ever entered it. It is situated on the north side of the most 
 eastern point of the island, and about east-north-east from the volcano, 
 in the latitude of 19 degrees 32 minutes 25 seconds south, and in the 
 longitude of 169 degrees 44 minutes 35 seconds east. 
 
 As soon as the boats were hoisted in they .made sail, and stretched 
 to the eastward, with a fresh gale at south-east. At daybreak, on the 
 25th of August, they were on the north side of an island, (which is of a 
 moderjite height, and three leagues in circuit,) and steered west for a 
 bluff-head, along the low land under it. After doubling the head they 
 found the land to trend south, a little easterly, and to form a large deep 
 bay, bounded on the west by the coast just mentioned. Everything con- 
 spired to make them believe this was the Bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, 
 discovered by Quiros in 1606. The northern islands of this archipelago 
 were first discovered by that great navigator, Quiros, in 1606 ; and, not 
 without reason, were considered as part of the southern continent, which, 
 at that time, was supposed to exist. They were next visited by M. de 
 Bougainville, who, besides landing on the Isle of Lepers, did no more 
 than discover that the land was not connected, but composed of islands, 
 which he called the Great Cyclades. But as, besides ascertaining the 
 extent and situation of these islands, Cook added to them several new 
 ones which were not known before, and explored the whole, .he has ob- 
 tained a right to name them ; and shall in future distinguish them by the 
 name of the New Hebrides. They arc situated between the latitude of 
 14 degrees 29 minutes and 20 degrees 4 minutes south, and between 166 
 degrees 41 minutes and 170 degrees 21 minutes east longitude, and extend 
 120 leagues, in the direction of north-north-west, half west, and south- 
 south-east, half east. 
 
 At sunrise, on the 1st of September, after having stood to, south-west 
 all night, no more land was to be seen. On the 20th, as they were steer- 
 ing to the south, land was discovered bearing south-south-west. Breakers 
 were seen about half-way between them and the shore ; and behind, two 
 or three canoes under sail standing out to sea, as if their design had been 
 to come off. They had hardly got to an anchor, before they were sur- 
 rounded by a great number of the natives, in sixteen or eighteen canoes, 
 most of whom were without any sort of weapons. On shore they found 
 the same chief who had been seen in one of the canoes in the morning, 
 whose name was Teabooma ; and they had not been on shore above ten 
 
260 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 minutes, before he called for silence. Being instantly obeyed by every 
 individual present, he made a short speech ; and soon after another chief, 
 having called for silence, made a speech also. It was pleasing to see 
 with what attention they were heard. Their speeches were composed 
 of short sentences ; to each of which two or three old men answered, by 
 nodding their heads, and giving a kind of grunt, significant of approba- 
 tion. 
 
 The inhabitants are a strong, robust, active, well-made people, courteous 
 and friendly, and not in the least addicted to pilfering, which is more than 
 can be said of any other nation in this sea. They are nearly of the same 
 colour as the natives of Tanna, but have better features, more agrceafele 
 countenances, and are a much stouter race, a few being seen who mea- 
 sured six feet four inches ; some had thick lips, flat noses, and full cheeks, 
 and., in some degree, the features and look of a negro. Two things con- 
 tributed to the forming of such an idea ; first, their rough mop heads ; and, 
 secondly, their besmearing their faces with black pigment. Their hair 
 and beards are in general black. The former is very much frizzled, so 
 that, at first sight, it appears like that of a negro. It is, nevertheless, 
 very different : though both coarser and stronger than ours. The women's 
 dress is a short petticoat, made of the filaments of the plantain tree laid 
 over a cord, to which they are fastened, and tied round the waist. The 
 petticoat is made at least six or eight inches thick, but not one inch longer 
 than necessary for the use designed. The general ornaments for both 
 sexes are car-rings of tortoise shell, necklaces or amulets, made both of 
 shells and stones, and bracelets made of large shells, which they wear over 
 the elbow. 
 
 They called the island New Caledonia ; and, if we except New Zealand, 
 it is perhaps the largest island in the South Pacific Ocean ; for it extends 
 from the latitude of 19 degrees 37 minutes to 22 degrees 30 minutes south, 
 aii^ from the longitude of 163 degrees 37 minutes to 167 degrees 14 
 minutes east. It lies nearly west-north-west and east- south-east, and is 
 about eighty-seven leagues long m that direction ; but its breadth is not 
 considerable, nor anywhere exceeding ten leagues. It is a country full 
 of hills and valleys, of various extent, both for height and depth. 
 
 The wind continuing at south-west, blowing a fresh gale, and now and 
 then squalls, with showers of rain, they steered to south- south-east, with- 
 out meeting with any remarkable occurrence till near noon on the 6th of 
 October, when it fell calm. On the 10th, at daybreak, discovered land, 
 .bearing south-west, which, on a nearer approach, was found to be an island 
 of good height, and five leagues in circuit ; they named Jt Norfolk Isle, in 
 honour of the noble family of Howard. It is situated in the latitude of 
 29 degrees 2 minutes 30 seconds south, and longitude 16S degrees 16 
 minutes east. 
 
 After leaving this isle, they steered for New Zealand, their intention 
 being to touch at Queen Charlotte's Sound, to refresh the crew and put 
 the ship iii a condition io encounter the southern latitudes. On the 17th, 
 at daybreak, saw mount Egmont, covered with everlasting snov/. At 
 midnight tacked and made a trip to the north, till three o'clock next morn- 
 ing, v*'hen they bore away for the sound. At nine hauled round Point 
 Jackson, through a sea which looked terrible, occasioned by a rapid tide 
 and a high wind. At eleven o'clock anchored before Ship Cove, the 
 strong flurries from off the land not permitting them to get in. In the 
 afternoon they w^ent into the cove, with the seine, to try to catch some 
 fish. The first thing after landing was to look for the bottle hid when 
 
JAMES COOK. 261 
 
 last here, in which was the memorandum. It was taken away, but I-y 
 whom it did not appear. Two hauls wiih the seine producing only four 
 small fish, they, in some measure, made up for this deficiency by shoot- 
 ing sevpral birds, which the flowers in the garden had drawn thither, as 
 also some old shags, and by robbing the nests of some young ones. In 
 the afternoon Mr. Wales, in setting up his observatory, discovered that 
 several trees, which were standing when they last sailed from this place, 
 had been cut down with saws and axes ; and a few days after, the place 
 where an observatory, clock, «Sic., had been set up was also found, but in a 
 spot different froin that where Mr. Wales had placed his. It was there- 
 fore now no longer to be doubted that the Adventure had been in this 
 cove after they had left it. 
 
 Nothing remarkable happened till the 24th, when, in the morning, two 
 canoes were seen coming down the sound ; but as soon as they perceived 
 the ship, they retired hehmd a point en the west side. After breakfast 
 they went in a boat to look for them ; and, as they proceeded along tho 
 shore, shot several birds. The report of the muskets gave notice of 
 their approach, and the natives discovered themselves in Shag Cove by 
 hallooing ; but as they drew near to their hal)itations, they all fled to the 
 woods, except two or three men, who stood on a risiijg ground near the 
 shore, with their arms in their hands. The moment they landed, they 
 knew them. Joy then took the place of fear ; and the rest of the natives 
 hurried uut of the woods, and embraced them over and over again, leap- 
 ing and skipping about like madmen. There were only a few among 
 them whoso faces they could recognise, and on their asking why they 
 were afraid, and inquiring for some of their old acquaintances by name, 
 they talked much about killing, which was so variously understood, that 
 they could gather nothing from it, so that, after a short stay, they took 
 leave and went on board. 
 
 On the 3d Mr. Pickcrsgill met with some of the natives, who related 
 to him the story of a ship being lost and the people being killed ; but 
 added, with great earnestness, it was not done by them. Early in the 
 morning of the 5'h their old friends made Cook a visit, and brought a 
 seasonable supply of fish. At the same time the captain embarked in 
 the pinnace, with Messrs, Forster and Sparrman, in order to proceed up 
 the sound. He was desirous of finding the termination of it : cr rather 
 of seeing if he could find any passage out to sea by the south-east, as he 
 suspected from some discoveries made when first here. In their way 
 up they met v/ith some fishers, of whom they made tho necessary inquiry ; 
 and they all agreed that there was no passage to the sea by the head of 
 the sound. 
 
 On the 6th, wind at north-east, gloomy weather, with rain. Their old 
 friends having taken up their abode near, one of them, whose name was 
 Peuero, (a man of some note,) made Cook a present of a staff of honour 
 such as the chiefs generally carry. In return lie dressed him in a suit of 
 old clothes, of which he was not a little proud. He had a fine person 
 and a good presence, and nothing but his colour distinguished him from 
 an European. Having got him and another into a communicative mood, 
 they began to inquire if the Adventure had been there during their ab- 
 sence ; and they gave them to understand, in a manner which admitted 
 of no doubt, that soon after they were gone she arrived ; that she staid 
 between ten and twenty days, and had been gone ten months. They 
 likewise asserted that neither she nor any other ship had been stranded 
 on the coast, as had been reported. 
 
262 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 At daybreak, on the 10th, with a fine breeze at west-north-west, they 
 weighed and stood out of the sound ; and, after getting round the Two 
 Brothers, steered for Cape Campbell, which is at the south-west entrance 
 of the strait. Having a steady fresh gale at north-north-west on the 
 26th and 27th, they steered east ; and at noon, on the latter, were in 
 latitude 55 degrees 6 minutes south, longitude 138 degrees 56 minutes 
 west. They now gave up all hopes of finding any more land in this 
 ocean, and came to a resolution to steer direct for the west entrance of 
 the Straits of Magellan, with a view of coasting the outer or south side 
 of Terra del Fuego, round Cape Horn to the Strait Le Maire. They 
 steered east by north and north-east on the 17th of December, under 
 all the sail they could carry, with a fine fresh gale at north-west by west, 
 in expectation of seeing the land before night, in order to make sure of 
 falling in with Cape Deseada. Two hours after, they made the land, 
 extending from north-east by north to east by south, about six leagues 
 distant. 
 
 Continuing to range the coast at about two leagues distance^ at eleven 
 o'clock passed a projecting point, which was called Cape Gloucester. At 
 three, passed Cape Noir, which is a steep rock of considerable height, 
 and the south-west point of a large island that seemed to lie detached, a 
 league or a league and a half from the main land. This is the most 
 desolate coast they ever saw. It seems entirely composed of rocky 
 mountains, without the least appearance of vegetation. These moun- 
 tains terminate in horrible precipices, whose craggy summits spire up to 
 a vast height, so that hardly anything in nature can appear with a more 
 barren and savage aspect than the whole of this country. Here they 
 anchored in thirty fathoms, the bottom sand and broken shells ; and carried 
 out a kedge and hawser to steady the ship for the night. 
 
 The morning of the 21st was calm and pleasant. After breakfast the 
 captain set out with two boats to look for a more secure station. They 
 found a cove in which was anchorage in thirty, twenty, and fifteen fathoms, 
 the bottom stones and sand. At the head of the cove was a stony beach, 
 a valley covered with wood, and a stream of fresh water. A number of 
 the natives, in nine canoes, had been alongside the ship, and some on 
 board. Little address was required to persuade them to either, for they 
 seemed to be well enough acquainted with Europeans, and had among 
 them some of their knives. The next morning, the 25th, they made 
 another visit. Tliey were of the same nation formerly seen in Success 
 Bay, and the same which M. de Bougainville distinguishes by the name 
 of Pecharas, a word which these had, on every occasion, in their mouths. 
 They are a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race. They are almost 
 naked ; their clothing was a seal skin ; some had two or three sewed 
 together, so as to made a cloak which reached to the knees ; but the most 
 of them had only one skin, hardly large enough to cover their shoulders, 
 and all their lower parts were quite naked. The women covered their 
 nakedness with the flap of a seal skin, but in other respects are clothed like 
 the men. They, as well as the children, remained m the canoes. 
 
 The festival celebrated at this place occasioned their giving it the name 
 of Christmas Sound, The entrance, which is three leagues wide, is 
 situated in the latitude of 55 degrees 27 minutes south, longitude 70 
 degrees 16 minutes west, and, in the direction of north, 37 degrees 
 west from St. Ildefonso Isles, distant ten leagues. 
 
 At four o'clock in the morning, on the 28th of December, began to 
 unmoor, and at eight weighed and stood out to sea. At half-past seven, 
 
JAMES COOK. 263 
 
 29th, passed the famous Cape Horn, and entered the southern Atlantic 
 Ocean. It is the very same point of land Cook took for the cape in 
 1769, which at that time he was doubtful of It is the most southern 
 extremity, on a group of islands of unequal extent, lying before Nassau 
 Bay, known by the name of Hermite Islands, and is situated in the 
 latitude of 55 degrees 58 minutes, and in the longitude of 68 degrees 
 13 mmutes west, according to the observations made of it in 1769. But 
 the observations which they had in Christmas Sound, and reduced to the 
 cape by the watch, and others which they had afterward, and reduced 
 back to it by the same means, place it in 67 degrees 19 minutes. It is 
 most probable that a mean between the two, viz., 67 degrees 46 minutes 
 will be nearest the truth. 
 
 After passing it, steered for Strait Le Maire, with a view of looking 
 into Success Bay, to see if there were any traces of the Adventure 
 having been there. On Mr. Pickersgill's landing, he was courteously 
 received by several of the natives, who were clothed in guanico and seal 
 skins, and had on their arms bracelets made of silver wire, and wrought 
 not unlike the hilt of a sword, being no doubt the mannfucture of some 
 Europeans. They were the same kind of people seen in Christmas 
 Sound, and, like them, repeated the word pechara on every occasion. 
 One man spoke much to Mr. Pickersgill, pointing first to the ship and 
 then to the bay, as if he wanted her to come in. Mr. Pickersgill said 
 the bay was full of whales and seals ; and they had observed the same 
 in the strait, especially on the Terra del Fuego side, where the whales, 
 in particular, are exceedingly numerous. 
 
 Next morning, at three o'clock, they bore up for the east end of Staten 
 Land. At length, after making a few boards, fishing, as it were, for the 
 best ground, they anchored in twenty-one fathoms water, a stony bottom, 
 about a mile from an island. After dinner hoisted out three boats, and 
 landed with a large party of men ; some to kill seals, others to catch or 
 kill birds, fish, or what came in their way. To find the former it mattered 
 not where they landed, for the shore was covered with them ; and by the 
 noise they made one would have thought the island was stocked with cows 
 and calves. They were a diflferent animal from seals, but in shape and 
 motion exactly resembhng them ; they called them lions, on account of 
 the great resemblance the male has to that beast. 
 
 Next day, January the 1st, 1775, finding that nothing was wanting but 
 a good harbour to make this a tolerable place for ships to refresh at, whom 
 chance or design might bring hither, sent Mr. Gilbert over to Staten 
 Land in the cutter to look for one. About ten o'clock Mr. Gilbert re- 
 turned from Stalen Land, where he found a good pore, situated three 
 leagues to the westward of Cape St. John. It may be known by some 
 small islands lying in the entrance. 
 
 Having left the land in the evening of the 3d, they saw it again next 
 morning, bearing west. Their course was south-east, with a view of 
 discovering that extensive coast laid down by Mr. Dalrymple in his chart, 
 in which is the Gulf of St. Sebastian. At nme o'clock, on the 14th, 
 saw an island of ice, as they then thought, but at noon were doubtful 
 whether it was ice or land. They had but little wind all the morning, 
 and at two, P. M., it fell calm. It was now no longer doubted that it was 
 land, and not ice, in sight. It was, however, in a manner wholly covered 
 with snow. They were farther confirmed in its being land, by finding 
 soundings at 175 fathoms a muddy bottom. 
 
 At this time they had a great swell from the south, an indication that 
 
264 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 no land was near in that direction ; nevertiieless, the vast quantity of snow 
 on that in sight induced them to think it was extensive, and they chose 
 to begin with exploring the northern coast. They landed at three different 
 places, displayed their colours, and took possession of the country in his 
 majesty's name, under a discharge of small arms. They called the bay- 
 Possession Bay. It is situated in the latitude of 54 degrees 5 minutes 
 south, longitude 37 degrees 18 minutes west, and eleven leagues to the 
 east of Cape North. A few miles to the west of Possession Bay, between 
 it and Cape Bullcr, lies the Bay of Isles, so named on account of several 
 small isles lying in and before it. 
 
 They called this land the Isle of Georgia, in honour of his majesty. 
 It is situated between the latitudes of 53 degrees 57 minutes and 54 de- 
 grees 57 minutes south, and between 38 degrees 13 minutes and 35 de- 
 grees 34 minutes west longitude ; is thirty-one leagues long, and its 
 greatest breadth is about ten leagues. It seems to abound wijh bays and 
 harbours, the north-east coast especially ; but the vast quantity of ice must 
 render them inaccessible the greatest part of the year. 
 
 On the 25th steered east-south-east, v/ith a fresh gale. They now 
 reckoned to be in latitude 63 degrees south, and farther they did not in- 
 tend to go, unless they observed some certain signs of soon meeting with 
 land. 
 
 They continued to stand to the east till the 28th, when they fell in, all 
 at once, with a vast number of large ice islands, and a sea strewed with 
 loose ice. At half-past six, on tho 31st, staiiding north-north-east, with 
 the wind at west, the fog very fortunately clearing away a little, they dis- 
 covered land ahead, three or four miles distant. It extended from north 
 by east to east-south-east, and was called Cape Bristol, in honour of the 
 noble family of Hervey. They called this laud Southern Thule, because 
 it is the most southern land that has ever yet been discovered. It shows 
 a surface of vast height, and is everywhere covered with snow. 
 
 On the 1 St of February, at four in the morning, got sight of a new coast, 
 which, at six o'clock, bore north 60 degrees east. It proved a high pro- 
 montory, which was named Gape Montagu, situated in latitude 58 degrees 
 27 minutes south, longitude 26 degrees 44 minutes west, and seven or 
 eight leagues to the north of Cape IJristol. Continuing to steer to the 
 north all night, on the 2d anew land was seen, bearing north 12 degrees 
 east, about ten leagues distant. It appeared in two hummock just 
 peeping above the horizon. The weather was now become very hazy, 
 which soon turning to a thick fog, put a stop to discovery, and made it 
 unsafe to stand for the shore. Thus they were obliged to leave it, under 
 the supposition of it being an island, which was named Saunders, after Sir 
 Charles. I'hey stood to the north, having a light breeze at west by south. 
 At this time they saw the Jand, which proved to be two isles. The day 
 on which they were discovered was the occasion of calling them Can- 
 dlemas Isles ; latitude 57 degrees 11 minutes south, longitude 27 degrees 
 6 minutes west. 
 
 At daybreak, on the 7th, resumed their course to the east, with a very 
 fresh gale at south-west by west, attended by a high sea from the same 
 direction. Toward noon, on the 14th, the wind, veering to the south, in- 
 creased to a very strong gale, and blew in heavy squalls, attended with 
 snow. They continued to steer east, inclining a little to the north, and 
 in the afternoon crossed the first meridian, or that of Greenwich, in the 
 latitude of 37 degrees 50 minutes south. 
 
 Thev had now made the circuit of the southern ocean, in a high latitude, 
 
JAMES COOK. 263 
 
 *nd traversed it in such a manner as to leave not the least room for the 
 possibility of there bei^g a continent, unless near the pole, and out of the 
 reach of navigation. By twice visiting the tropical sea, they had not only 
 settled the situation of some old discoveries, but made there many new 
 ones, and left very little more to be done even in that part. These con- 
 siderations induced them to lay aside looking for the French discoveries 
 of Bouvet, and to steer for the Cape of Good Hope ; with a resolation, 
 however, of looking for the Isles of Denia and Marseveen, laid down in 
 Dr. Halley's variation chart in the latitude of 41i degrees south, and about 
 4 degrees of longitude to the east of the meridian of the Cape of Good 
 Hope. 
 
 At daylight, on the 16th of March, saw two sail in the north-west quar- 
 ter, standing to the westward, and one of them showing Dutch colours. At 
 ten o'clock tacked and stood to the west also, being at this time in the 
 latitude of 39 degrees 9 minutes south, longitude 22 degrees 38 minutes 
 east. In the evening of the I7th saw land in the direction of east- 
 north-east, about six leagues distant ; and during the fore-part of the 
 night there was a great fire or light upon it. At nine o'clock, having little 
 or no wind, hoisted out a boat, and sent on board one of the two ships 
 before-mentioned, which were about two leagues from them ; but they 
 were too impatient after news to regard the distance. At one, P. M., 
 the boat returned from on board the Bownkerke Polder, Captain Cornelius 
 Bosch, a Dutch Indiaman from Bengal. Captain Bosch very obligingly, 
 offered sugar, arrack, and whatever he had to spare. Our people were 
 told by some English seamen on board this ship, that the Adventure had 
 arrived at the Cape of Good Hope twelve months ago, and that the crew 
 of one of her boats had been murdered and eaten by the people of New 
 Zealand ; so that the story heard in Queen Charlotte's Sound was now 
 no longer a mystery. 
 
 The next morning, being with them Wednesday, the 22d, but with the 
 people here Tuesday, the 21st, they anchored in Table Bay, where they 
 found several Dutch ships, some French, and the Ceres, Captain Newte, 
 an English East India company's ship, from China, bound directly to 
 England, by whom Cook sent a copy of the preceding part of this journal, 
 some charts, and other drawings, to the admiralty. 
 
 By the 26th of April the work was finished ; and having got on board 
 all necessary stores and a fresh sapply of provisions and water, they took 
 leave of the governor and other principal officers, and the next morning 
 repaired on board. At daybreak, in the morning of the 15th of May, saw 
 the Island of St. Helena at the distance of fourteen leagues ; and at mid- 
 night anchored in the road before the town, on the norUi-west side of the 
 island. 
 
 In the morning of the 28th made Ascension ; and the same evening an- 
 chored in Cross Bay, on the north-west side, in ten fathoms water ; the 
 bottom a fine sand, and half a mile from the shore. The island is about 
 ten miles in length and five or six in breadth. It shows a surface com- 
 posed of barren hills and valleys, on the most of which not a shrub or plant 
 is to be seen for several miles, and where they found nothing but stones 
 and sand, or rather flags and ashes ; an indubitable sign that theisle, at 
 some remote time, has been destroyed by a volcano, which has thrown 
 up vast heaps of stones, and even hills. Between these heaps of stones 
 they found a smooth even surface, composed of ashes and sand, and 
 very good travelling upon it ; but one may as easily walkover broken glass- 
 bottles as over the stones 
 
 23 
 
26^ VOYAGES ROUND THE WaRLD. 
 
 Turtle are to be found at this isle from January to June. The method 
 ©f catchiug them is to iiave peojJe upon the several sandy bays, to watch 
 their coming oa shore to lay their eggs, which is always in the night, and 
 then to turn them on their backs, till there be an opportunity to take, 
 them off the next day. It is recommended to send a good many men to 
 each beach, where they were to lie quiet till the turtle were ashore,, 
 and then rise and turn them at once. This method may be the best 
 when the turtle are numerous ; but when there are but few, three or four 
 men are sufficient for the largest beach ; and if they keep patrolling it 
 close to the wash of the surf during the night, by this method they will 
 see all that com^e ashore, and cause less noise than if there were more of 
 them. It was by this method they caught the most ; and this is the 
 method by which the Americans take them. Nothing is more certain, 
 than that all the turtle which are found about this island come here for 
 the sole purpose ©■f laying their eggs, for they met with none but females ; 
 and of all those which were caught, not one had any food worth mention- 
 ing in its stomach ; a sure sign that they must have been a long time 
 without any ; and this may be the reason why the flesh of thorn is not so 
 good as some they had eaten on the coast of New South Wales, which 
 were caught on the spot where they fed. 
 
 On the 9th of June, at noon, made the Island o( Fernando de Noronha, 
 bearing south-west by west half west, distant six or seven leagues, as 
 they afterward found by the log. It appeared in detached and peaked 
 hills, the largest of which looked like a church tower or steeple. 
 
 After standing very near the rocks, they hoisted their colours, and then 
 bore up round the north end of the isle, or rather round a group of little 
 isles ; for they could see that the land was divided by narrow channels. 
 There is a strong fort on the one next the main island, where there are 
 several others, all of which seemed to have every advantage that nature 
 can give them ; and they are so disposed as wholly to command all the 
 anchoring and landing places about the island. 
 
 This road seems to be well sheltered from the south and east svinds. 
 One of the seamen had been on board a Dutch India ship, who put in at 
 this isle on her way out in 1770. They were very sickly, and in want of 
 refreshments and water. The Portuguese supplied them with some buf- 
 faloes and fowls ; and they watered behind one of the beaches, in a little 
 pool. By reducing the observed latitude, at noon, to the peaked hill, its 
 latitude will be 3 degrees 53 minutes south, and its longitude by the 
 watch, carried on from St. Helena, is 32 degrees 34 minutes west. 
 
 On the 11th, at three o'clock in the afternoon, they crossed the equator 
 in the longitude of 33 degrees 14 minutes west. At five o'clock in the 
 evening of the 13th of July, made the Island of Fayal, one of the 
 Azores, and soon after that of Pico. Fresh provisions for present use 
 may be got, such as beef, vegetables, and fruit ; and hogs, sheep, and 
 poultry for sea stock, all at a pretty reasonable price. The bullocks and 
 hogs are very good, but the sheep are small and wretchedly poor. The 
 principal produce of Fayal is wheat and Indian corn, vrith which they 
 supply Pico and some of the other isles. The chief town is called Villa 
 de Horta. It is situated at the bottom of the bay, close to the edge of 
 the sea, and is defended by two castles, one at each end of the town, 
 and a wall of stone-work, extending along the sea-shore from the one to 
 the other. Fayal, although the most noted for wines, does not raise suf- 
 ficient for its own consumption. This article is raised on Pico, where 
 ihere is no road for shipping ; but being brought to De Horta, and from 
 
JAMES COOK. 267 
 
 thence shipped abroad, chiefly to America, it has acquired the name of 
 Fayal wine. 
 
 On tlie 29th they made the land near Plymoutlj. The next morning 
 anchored at Spithead : and the same day Captain Cook landed at Ports- 
 month, and set out for London in company with Messrs. Wales, Forster, 
 and Hodges. 
 
 CAPTAIN COOK'S THIRD VOYAGE.— 1776-80, 
 
 Captain Cook having, on the 9th day of February, 1776, received a 
 commission to command his majesty's sloop the Resolutionj went on 
 board the next day, hoisted the pendant, and began to enter men. At the 
 same time the Discovery, of three hundred tons burthen, was purchased 
 into the service, and the command of her given to Captain Clerke, who 
 iiad been his second lieutenant on board the Resolution, in the second 
 voyage round the world. 
 
 As they were to touch at Otaheite and the Society Islands, it had been 
 determined not to omit this opportunity (the only one ever likely to hap- 
 pen) of carrying Omai back to his native country. He left London with 
 a mixture of regret and satisfaction. He was furnished, by his majesty, 
 with an ample provision of every article which, during the intercourse 
 with his country, they had observed to be in any estimation there, either 
 as useful or as ornamental. He had, besides, received many presents 
 of the same nature from Lord Sandwich, Mr. Banks, and several other 
 gentlemen and ladies of his acquaintance. In short, every method had 
 been employed, both during his abode in England and at his departure, 
 to make him the instrument of conveying to the inhabitants of the islands 
 of the Pacific Ocean the most exalted opinion of tho greatness and 
 generosity of the British nation. 
 
 The Resolution sailed on the 12th of July, the Discovery being to follow 
 her. ■ At four in the afternoon of the 3ist saw Teneriffc, and steered 
 for the eastern part. Having completed their water, and got on board 
 every other thing they wanted at this island, weighed anchor on the 4th 
 of Angust, and proceeded on their voyage, with a fine gale at north-east. 
 On the 17ih of October had sight of the Cape of Good Hope ; and 
 the next day anchored in Table Bay, in four fathoms water. In the 
 morning of the 10th of November the Discovery arrived in the bay. 
 Captain Clerke had sailed fro ir^Ply mouth on the 1st of August, and 
 should have been here a week sooner, if the gale of wind had not blown 
 him oiF the coast. 
 
 In the niorning of the 30th they repaired on board. At five in the 
 afternoon a breeze sprung up at south-east, with which they weighed, 
 and stood oat of the bay. On the 12th of December, at noon, saw land 
 extending from south-east by south to south-east by east. Upon a nearer 
 approach, found it to be two islands. The distance from the one to the 
 other is about five leagues. They seemed to have a rocky and bold shore ; 
 and, excepting the south-east parts, where the land is rather low and flat, 
 a surface composed of barren mountains, which rise to aconsiderable height, 
 and whose summits and sides were covered with snow. These two islands, 
 as also four others which lie from nine to twelve degrees of longitude 
 more to the east, and nearly in the same latitude, were discovered by 
 Captains Marion du Fiesne and Crozet, f>ench navigators, in January, 
 1772. The two they now saw were called Prince Edward's Islands, 
 
268 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 after his majesty's fourth son ; and the other four by the name of Marion's 
 and Crozet's Islands, to crtmmemorate their discoverers. 
 
 On the 34th, in the morning, the fog clearing away a little, they saw 
 land, bearing south-riouth-east, an island of considerable height, and aliout 
 three leagues in circuit. Soon after saw another of the same magnitude, 
 one league to the eastward ; and between these two, in the direction of 
 south-east, some smaller ones. In the direction of south by east half 
 east, from the east end of the first island, a third high island was seen. 
 They did but just weather the island last mentioned. It is a high round 
 rock, which \\;is named Bligh's Cap. Soon after saw the land of which 
 thev had a faint view in ihe morning. About the middle there appeared 
 to be an inlet, for which they steered ; but, on approaching, found it 
 was a bending in the coast, and there.^ore bore up, to go round Cape 
 St. Louis. At daybreak, on the 25th, weighed with a gentle breeze at 
 ■west ; and having wrought ijito a harbour, anchored in eight fathoms 
 water, the bottom a fine dark sand. The Discovery did not get in till 
 two in the afternoon. 
 
 As soon as the ships were again out of Christmas Harbour, they steered 
 along the coast, with a fine breeze at north-north-west, and clear weather. 
 To another harbour they gave the name of Port Palliser, in honour of 
 Admiral Sir Hugh Palliser. After leaving Kerguclen's land they steered 
 east by north, intending, in obedience to instructions, to touch next at 
 New Zealand. On the 24th of January, at three o'clock in the morning, 
 discovered the coast of Van Diemen's Land, bearing north-west. They 
 stood for Adventure Bay, and anchored in it at four o'clock. 
 
 In the afternoon they were agreeably surprised, at the place where 
 they were cutting wood, with a visit from some of the na'ives — eight 
 men and a boy. They approached without betraying any marks of fear, 
 or rather with the greatest confidence imaginable ; for none of them had 
 any weapons. 
 
 • They were quite naked, and wore no ornaments ; unless we consider 
 as such, and as a proof of their love of finery, some large punctures or 
 ridges raised on different parts of their bodies, some in straight, and 
 others in curved lines. 
 
 They were of the common stature, hut rather slender. Their skin was 
 black, and also their hair, which v;as as woolly as that of any native of 
 Guinea ; but they vvore not distinguished by remarkable thick lips nor 
 flat looses. On the contrary, their features were far from being disagree- 
 able. They had pretty good eyes ; and their teeth were tolerably even, 
 but very dirty. Most of them had theff hair and beards smeared with a 
 red ointment ; and some had their faces also painted with the same 
 composition. 
 
 Van Diemen's Land has been twice visited before. It was so nanied by 
 Tasman, who discovered it in November, 1642. From that time it had 
 escaped all farther notice bv European navigators, till Captain Furneaux 
 touched at it in March, 1773. The land is, for the most part, of a good 
 height, diversified with hills and valleys, and everywhere of a greenish 
 hue. It is well wooded : and if one may judge from appearances, and 
 from what they met with in Adventure Biy, is not ill supplied with water. 
 The best, or what is most convenient for ships that touch here, is a 
 rivulet, v^hich is one of several that fall into a pond that lies behind the 
 beach at the head of the bay. It there mixes with the sea water, so 
 that it must be taken up above this pond, which may be done without any 
 great trouble. Fire wood is to be got, with great ease, in several places. 
 
JAMES COOK. 269 
 
 At eight in the morning of the 30th of January, a h'ght breeze spring- 
 ing up at west, they weighed anchor, and put to sea from Adventure Bay. 
 On the 10th of February discovered the land of New Zealand. The 
 part they saw proved to be Rock's Point, about eight or nine leagues dis- 
 tant. They now steered for Stephens's Island, which they came up with 
 at nine o'clock at night ; and at ten next morning anchored in their old 
 station, in Queen Charlotte's Sound. They had not been long at anchor 
 before several canoes, filled with natives, came alongside of the ships, 
 but very few would venture on board, which appeared the more extra- 
 ordinary, as Cook was well known to them all. There was one man in 
 pHrlicular among them, whom he had treated with remarkable kindness 
 during the whole of his stay when last here. Yet now neither professions 
 of friendship nor presents could prevail upon him to come into the ship. 
 This shyness was to be accounted for only upon the supposition, that they 
 were apprehensive they had revisited their country in order to revenge 
 the death of Captain Furneaux's people. Seeing Omai on board now, 
 whom they must have remembered to have seen on board the Adventure 
 when the melancholy affair happened, and whose first conversation with 
 them, as they approached, generally turned on that subject, they must 
 be well assured that the captain was no longer a stranger to it. He 
 thought it necessary, therefore, to use every endeavour to assure them 
 of the continuance of his friendship, and that he should not disturb them 
 on that account. Among their occasional visiters was a chief named 
 Kahoora, who headed the party that cut off Captain Furneaux's people, 
 and himself killed Mr. Rowe, the oflicer who commanded. To judge 
 of the character of Kahoora by what they heard from many of his coun- 
 trymen, he seemed to be more feared than beloved among them. Not 
 satisfied with telling Cook that he was a very bad man, some of them 
 even importuned him to kill him ; and were not a little surprised that 
 he did not listen to them ; for, according to their ideas of equity, this 
 ought 10 have been done. 
 
 While at this place, curiosity prompted them to inquire into the cir- 
 cumstances attending the melancholy fate of their countrymen ; and Omai 
 was made use of as interpreter for this purpose. Pedro, and the rest of 
 the natives present, answered all the questions that were put to them on 
 the subject without reserve, and like men who are under no dread of 
 punishment for a crime of which they are not guilty ; for they already 
 knew that none of them had been concerned in the unhappy transaction. 
 They said, that while the seamen weie sitting at dinner, surrounded by 
 several of the natives, some of the latter stole, or snatched from them, 
 some bread and fish, for which Sioy were beat. This being resented, a 
 quarrel ensued, and two New Zealanders were shot dead, by the only 
 two muskels that were fired ; and before the people had time to discharge 
 a third, or to load again those that had been fired, the natives rushed in, 
 overpowered them with numbers, and put them all to death. Pedro and 
 his companions, besides relating the history of the massacre, made them 
 acquainted with the very spot that was the scene of it. It is at the corner 
 of the cove on the right hand. They pointed to the place of the sun, 
 to mark at what hour of the day it happened ; and, according to this, it 
 must have been late in the afternoon. They also showed the place where 
 the boat lay ; and it appeared to be about two hundred yards distant from 
 that where the crew were seated. One of their number, a black servant 
 of Captain Furneaux, was left in the boat to take care of her. 
 
 For some time before they arrived at New Zealand, Omai had expressed 
 23* 
 
^70 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a desire to taice one of the natives with him to his own country. They 
 had not been there many days, before he had an opportunity of being 
 gratified in this ; for a youth about seventeen or eighteen years of age, 
 named Taweiharooa, offered to accompany him, and took up his residence 
 on board. That Taweiharooa might be sent away in a manner becoming 
 his birth, another youth was to have gone with him as his servant ; and, 
 with this view, remained on board till they were about to sail,' when hia 
 friends took him ashore. However, his place was supplied next morn- 
 ing by another, a boy of about nine or ten years of age, named Kokoa. 
 
 On the 25th of February, at ten o'clock in the morning, a light breeze 
 springing up at north-west by west, they weighed, stood out of the sound, 
 and made sail through the strait, with the Discovery in company. On the 
 29th of March, at ten in the morning, standing to the north-east, the Dis- 
 covery made the signal of seeing land. They soon discovered it to be an 
 island of no great extent, and stood for it till sunset. 
 
 At this time a small canoe was launched in a great hurry from the 
 farther end of the beach, and a man getting into it, put off, as with a view 
 to reach them ; after some time, another man joined him in the canoe, 
 and then they both paddled toward the ship. Still, however, they would 
 not venture on board ; but told Omai, who understood them pretty well, 
 that their countrymen on shore had given them this caution, at the same 
 time directing them to inquire from whence the ship came, and to learn 
 the name of the captain. The English inquired the name of the island, 
 which they called Matigya or Mangeea ; and sometimes added to it Nooe, 
 naif naiwa. The name of their chief, they said, was Orooaeeka. They were 
 obliged to leave, unvisited, this island, which seemed capable of supplying 
 all their wants. It lies in the latitude of 21 degrees 57 minutes south, 
 and in the longitude of 201 degrees 53 minutes east. Such parts of the 
 coast as fell under their observation are guarded by a reef of coral rock, 
 on the outside of which the sea is of an unfathomable depth. It is full 
 five leagues in circuit, and of a moderate and pretty equal height. The 
 natives of Mangeea seem to resemble those of Otaheite and the Marquesas, 
 in the beauty of their persons, more than any other nation in these seas ; 
 having a smooth skin, and not being muscular. Their general disposition 
 also corresponds, as far as they had opportunities of judging, with that 
 which distinguishes the first-mentioned people. 
 
 After leaving Mangeea, on the afternoon of the 30th of March, they 
 continued northward all that night, and till noon on the 81st, when they 
 again saw land, distant eight or ten leagues. Next morning, at eight 
 o'clock, had got within four leagues, and could now pronounce it to be an 
 island, nearly of the same appearance ^d extent with that so lately left. 
 At the same time another island, much smaller, was seen right ahead. 
 It was not long, when three canoes came alongside of the Resolution, each 
 conducted by one man. They are long and narrow, and supported by out- 
 riggers. Some knives, beads, and other trifles, were conveyed to their 
 visiters ; and they gave a few cocoa nuts upon asking for them. Not long 
 after a double canoe, in which were twelve men, came toward them. As 
 they drew near the ship, they recited some words in concert, by way of 
 chorus — one of their i.umber first standing up and giving the v^rord before 
 each repetition. When they had finished their solemn chant, they came 
 alongside and asked for the chief. 
 
 At three in the alternoon Mr. Gore returned, and said, that he had ex- 
 amined all the west side of the island, without finding a place where a boat 
 could land or the ships anchor, the shore being everywhere bounded by 
 
JAMES COOK. 271 
 
 a st«ep coral rode, against which the sea broke in a dreadful surf, through 
 which some of them swam from the boats. 
 
 Scarcely had Omai landed, when he found, among the crowd, three of 
 his own countrymen, natives of the Society Islands. At the distance of 
 about two hundred leagues from those islands, an immense unknown ocean 
 intervening, with such wretched sea-boats as their inhabitants are known 
 to make use of, and fit only for a passage where sight of land is scarcely 
 ever lost, such a meeting, at such a place, may well be looked upon as 
 one of those unexpected situations with which the writers of feigned 
 adventures love to surprise their readers. It may easily be guessed with 
 what mutual surprise and satisfaction they engaged in conversation. 
 Their story is an affecting one. About twenty persons, of both sexes, had 
 embarked on board a canoe at Otaheite, to cross over to the neighbourmg 
 island Ulietea. A violent contrary wind arising, they could neither reach 
 the latter nor get back to the former. Their intended passage being a 
 very short one, their stock of provisions was scanty, and soon exhausted. 
 The hardships they suffered, while driven along by the storm they knew 
 not whither, are not to be conceived. They passed many days without 
 having anything to eat or drink. Their numbers gradually diminished, 
 worn out by famine and fatigue. Four men only survived, when the canoe 
 overset ; and then the perdition of this small remnant seemed inevitable. 
 However, they kept hanging by the side of their vessel during some of 
 the last days, till Providence brought them in sight of the people of this 
 island, who immediately sent out canoes, took them off their wreck, and 
 brought them ashore. Of the four who were thus saved, one was since 
 dead. The other three, who lived to have this opportunity of giving aa 
 account of their almost miraculous transplantation, spoke highly of the 
 kind treatment they here met with. And so well satisfied were they with 
 their situation, that they refused the offer made to them by the gentlemen, 
 at Omai's request, of giving them a passage to their native islands. The 
 similarity of manners and language had more than naturalized them to this 
 spot ; and the fresh connexions which they had here formed, and which 
 it would have been painful to have broken off, after such a length of time, 
 sufficiently account for their declining to revisit the places of their birth. 
 They had arrived upon this island at least twelve years ago. 
 
 This island is called Wateeoo by the natives. It lies in the latitude of 
 20 degrees 1 minute south, and in the longitude of 20 degrees 45 minutes 
 east, and is about six leagues in circumference. It is a beautiful spot, 
 with a surface composed of hills and plains, and covered with verdure of 
 many hues. 
 
 Light airs had carried the ships some distance from Wateeoo before 
 daybreak. They therefore steered for a neighbouring island, discovered 
 three days before. This island lies in the latitude of 19 degrees 6 1 minutes 
 south, and the longitude of 201 degrees 37 minutes east, about three or 
 four leagues from Wateeoo, the inhabitants of which called it Otakootaia ; 
 and sometimes they spoke of it under the appellation of Wenooa-ette, 
 which signities little island. They made sail again to the northward, in- 
 tending to try their fortune at Hervey's Island, discovered in 1773. As 
 they kept on toward it, six or seven of the canoes, all double ones, soon 
 came near. There were from three to six men in each. They stopped 
 at the distance of about a stone's throw from the ship ; and it was soma 
 time before Omai could prevail upon them to come alongside ; but no en- 
 treaties could mduce any of them to venture on board. Indeed, their 
 disorderly and clamorous behaviour by no means indicated a disposition 
 
272 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLF. 
 
 to trust, or treat them well. These people seemed to differ as much m 
 person as in disposition from the natives of Wateeoo ; though the distance 
 between the two islands is not very great. Their colour was of a deepei 
 cast ; and several had a fierce, rugged aspect, resembling the natives of 
 New Zealand ; but some were fairer. 
 
 At daybreak, on the 13th, they saw Palmerston Island, bearing west 
 by south, distant about five leagues. What is comprehended under this 
 name is a group of small isles, of which there are, in the whok, nine or 
 ten, lying in a circular direction, and connected together by a reef of coral 
 rocks. 
 
 In the night, between th« 24th and 25th, they passed Savage Island, 
 discovered in 1774 ; and on the 28th, at ten o'clock in the morning, got 
 to Annamooka. 
 
 The following day, while preparations were making for watering, Cook 
 went ashore in the forenoon, accompanied by Captain Clerke and some of 
 the officers, to fix on a place where the observatories might be set up, 
 and a guard be stationed ; the natives having readily given leave Too- 
 bou, the chief of the island, conducted him and Omai to his house. They 
 found it situated on a pleasant spot, in the centre of his plantation. A 
 fine grass-plot surrounded it, which, he gave them to understand, was for 
 the purpose of cleaning their feet before they went within doors. They 
 had not before observed such an instance of attention to cleanliness at any 
 of the places in this ocean ; but afterward found that it was very common 
 at the Friendly Islands. The floor of Toobou's house was covered with 
 mats ; and no carpet, in the most elegant English drawing-room, could 
 be kept neater. While on shore, they procured a few hogs and some fruit, 
 by bartering ; and, before they got on board again, the ships were crowded 
 with the natives. Few coming empty-handed, every necessary refresh- 
 ment was now in the greatest plenty. 
 
 On the 6th they were visited by a great chief from Tongataboo, whose 
 name was Feenou, and whom Taipa was pleased to introduce as king of 
 all the Friendly Isles. The officer on shore informed Cook that, when 
 he first arrived, all the natives were ordered out to meet him, and paid 
 their obeisance by bowing their heads as low as his feet, the soles of which 
 they also touched with each hand, first with the palm and then with the 
 back part. There could be little room to suspect that a person received 
 with so much respect could be anything less than the king. 
 
 In the afternoon he went to pay this great man a visit, having first re- 
 ceived a present of two fish from him, brought on board by one of his 
 servants. He appeared to be about thirty years of age, tall, but thin, and 
 had more of the European features than any yet seen here. When the 
 first salutation was over. Cook asked if he was the king. Taipa officiary 
 answered for him, and enumerated no less than 153 islands, of which, he 
 said, Feenou was the sovereign. After a short stay, their new visiter 
 and five or six of his attendants accompanied the captain on board, who 
 gave suitable presents to all, and entertained them in such a manner as 
 he thought would be agreeable. 
 
 Feenou, understanding that he meant to proceed directly to Tongata- 
 boo, importuned him strongly to alter this plan, to which he expressed as 
 much aversion as if be had some particular interest to promote. In pre- 
 ference to it, he warmly recommended an island, or rather a group of 
 islands, called Happaee, lying to the north-east. There, he assured him, 
 they could be supplied plentifully with every refreshment in the easiest 
 manner j and, to add weight to his advice, engaged to attend theia thither 
 
JAMES COOit. 2?3 
 
 m person. At daybreak, on the 16th, steered north-east for Hapaee, now 
 in sight ; and they could judge it to be low land, from the trees only ap- 
 pearing above the water. About nine o'clock could see it plainly forming 
 three islands, nearly of an equal size ; and soon after a fourth, to the 
 southward of these, as large as the others. Each seemed to bo about six 
 or seven miles long, and of a similar height and appearance. They now 
 despatched a boat to look for anchorage. A proper place was soon found, 
 and they came-to abreast of a reef, being that which joins licfooga to 
 Foa, ia the same manner that Foa is joined to Haanno. 
 
 The chief conducted Cook to a house, or rather a hut, situated close 
 to the sea-beach, brought thither but a few minutes before for their re* 
 ception. In this Feenou, Omai, and the captain, were seated. The other 
 chiefs and the multitude composed a circle, on the outside, fronting them ; 
 Md they also sat down. He was then asked how long he intended to 
 itay. On his saying, five days, Taipa was ordered to come and sit by 
 ihim, and proclaim this to the people. He then addressed them in a 
 speech mostly dictated by Feenou. The purport of it was, that they 
 were all, both old and young, to look upon him as a friend, who intended 
 to remain with them a few days ; that, during his stay, they must not 
 steal anything, nor molest him any other way ; and that it was expected 
 they should bring hogs, fowls, fruit, «Scc., to the ships, where they would 
 receive, in exchange for them, such and such things, which he enutnerated. 
 Soon after Taipa had finished this address to the assembly, Feenou left 
 them. Taipa then took occasion to signify, that it was necessary the 
 captain should make a present to the chief of the island, whose name was 
 Earoupa. He was not unprepared for this, and gave him such articles as 
 far exceeded his expectation. His liberality brought demands of the same 
 kind from two chiefs of other isles, who were present, and from Taipa 
 himself. When Feenou returned, which was immediately after Captain 
 Cook had made the last of these presents, he pretended to be angry with 
 Taipa for suffering him to give away so much ; but he looked upon this 
 as a mere finesse, being confident that he acted in concert with the others. 
 He now took his seat again, and ordered Earoupa to sit by him, and to 
 harangue the people as Taipa had done, and to the same purpose, dic- 
 tating, as before, the heads of the speech. 
 
 About noon a large sailing canoe came under the stern, in which was 
 a person named Futtafaihe, or Poulaho, or both ; who, as the natives 
 then on board said, was King of Tongataboo and of all the neighbour- 
 ing islands. It was a matter of surprise to have a stranger introduced 
 under this character, which they had so much reason to believe really 
 belonged to another. But they persisted in their account of the supreme 
 dignity of this new visiter ; and now, for the first time, owned that 
 Feenou was not the king, but only a subordinate chief, though of great 
 power, as he was often sent from Tongataboo to the other islands on 
 warlike expeditions, or to decide differences. It being their interest, as 
 well as inclination, to pay court to all the great men without making 
 inquiry into the validity of their assumed titles, they invited Poulaho on 
 board. He could not be an unwelcome guest ; for he brought with him, 
 as a present, two good fat hogs, though not so fat as himself. If weight 
 of body could give weight in rank or power, he was certainly the most 
 eminent man, in that respect, they had seen ; for though not very tall, 
 he was very unwieldy, and almost shapeless witli corpulence. He seemed 
 to be about forty years of age, had straight hair, and his features differ- 
 ed a good deal from those of the bulk of his people. They found hitn 
 
274 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to be a sedate, sensible man. ' He viewed the ship and the several new 
 objects with uncommon attention, and asked many pertinent questions ; 
 one of which was, what could induce them to visit these islands. After 
 he had satisfied his curiosity in looking at the cattle and other novelties 
 "whichJie met with upon deck, the captain desired him to walk down into 
 the cabin. To this some of his attendants objected, saying, that if he 
 were to accept of that invitation, it must happen that people would 
 walk over his head, which could not be permitted. Cook directed 
 Omai to tell them that he would obviate their object, by giving orders 
 that no one should presume to walk upon that part of the deck which 
 was over the cabin. Whether this expedient would have satisfied them 
 was far from appearing ; but the chief himself, less scrupulous in this 
 respect than his attendants, waved all ceremony, and walked down with- 
 out any stipulation. 
 
 Poulaho sat down to dinner ; but ate little, and drank less. When 
 they rose from the table, he desired Cook to accompany him ashore. 
 Omai was asked to be of the party ; but he was too faithfully attached 
 to Feenou to show any attention to his competitor ; arKl, therefore, ex- 
 cused himself. The captain attended the chief in his own boat, having 
 first made presents to him of such articles as he could observe he valued 
 much, and were even beyond his expectation to receive. He was not 
 disappointed in the view of thus securing his friendship ; for the moment 
 the boat reached the beach, and before he quitted her, he ordered two more 
 hogs to be brought and delivered to the people to be conveyed on board. 
 
 On the 4ih, at seven in the morning, they weighed ; and, with a fresh 
 gale from the east-south-east, stood away for Annamooka, where they 
 anchored riext morning, nearly in the same station they had so lately oc- 
 cupied. About noon, next day, Feenou arrived from Vavaoo. He told 
 them that several canoes, laden with hogs and other provisions, which 
 had sailed with him from that island, had been lost, owing to the late 
 blowing weather ; that everybody on board had perished. This melan- 
 choly tale did not seem to aflfeet any of his countrymen who heard it ; 
 and they were, by this time, too well acquainted with his character to 
 give much credit to such a story. The following morning Poulaho and 
 the other chiefs, who had been wind-bound with him, arrived. The 
 captain happened at this time to be ashore, in company with Feenou, who 
 seemed sensible of the impropriety of his conduct in assuming a charac- 
 ter that did not belong to him. For he not only acknowledged Poulaho 
 to be King of Tongataboo and the other isles, but affected to insist much 
 on it, with a view to make amervds for his former presumption. 
 
 At eight o'clock next morning they weighed, and steered for Tongata- 
 boo, having a gentle breeze at north-ea-st. About fourteen or fifteen 
 sailing vessels, belonging to the natives, set out with them ; but every 
 one of them outrun the ships considerably. Soon after they had anchored, 
 Cook landed, accompanied by Omai and some of the officers. They found 
 the king waiting upon the beach. He immediately conducted them ta a 
 small neat house, situated a little within the skirts of the wood, with a 
 fine large area before it. This house, he told him, was at his service 
 during his stay at the island ; and a better situation he could not wish for. 
 
 Toward noon, Poulaho brought with him his son< a youth about twelve 
 years of age. Cook had his company at dinner ; but his smi, though 
 present, was not allowed to sit down with him. It was very convenient 
 to have him for a guest ; (jpr when he was present, which was genera'ly 
 the case, every other native was excluded from the table, and but few 
 
JAMES COOK. 275 
 
 of them would remain in the cabin. By this time they had acquired 
 some certain information about the relative situations of the several great 
 men ; Mareewagee and old Toobou were brothers. Both of them were 
 men of great property in the island, and seemed to be in high estimation 
 with the people ; the former, in particular, had the very honourable ap- 
 pellation given to him by everybody of Motooa Tonga ; that is to say, 
 Father of Tonga, or of his country. The nature of his relationship to 
 the king was also no longer a secret ; for they now understood that he 
 was his father-in-law ; Poulaho having married one of his daughters, by 
 whom he had a son ; so that Mareewagee was the prince's grandfather. 
 Poulaho's appearance having satisfied them they had been under a mis- 
 take in considering Feenou as the sovereign of these islands, they had 
 been at first much puzzled about his real rank ; but that was by this time 
 ascertained. Feenou was one of Mareewagee's sons, and Tooboueitoa 
 was another. 
 
 Early the next morning the king came on board to invite Cook to an 
 entertainment, which he proposed to give the same day. He had already 
 been under the barber's hands ; his head being all besmeared with red 
 pigment, in order to redden his hair, which was naturally of a dark brown 
 colour. After breakfast he attended him to the shore ; and found his 
 people very busy in two places in the front of their area, fixing in an up- 
 right and square position, thus [ §g ], four very long posts, near two feet 
 from each other. The space between the posts was afterward filled up 
 with yams ; and) as they went on filling it, fastened pieces of sticks 
 across, from post to post, at the distance of about every four feet, to pre- 
 vent the posts from separating by the weight of the enclosed yams, and 
 also to get up by. When the yams had reached the top of the first posts 
 they fastened others to them, and. so continued till each pile was the 
 height of thirty feet or upward. On the top of one they placed two 
 baked hogs, and on the top of the other a living one ; and another they 
 tied by the legs, half-way up. It was matter of curiosity to observe with 
 what facility and despatch these two piles were raised. After they had 
 completed these two piles, they made several other heaps of yams and 
 bread fruit on each side of the area, to which were added a turtle and 
 a large quantity of excellent fish. All this, with a piece of cloth, a mat, 
 and some red feathers, was the king's present to the captain ; and he 
 seemed to pique himself on exceeding, as he really did, Feenou's liberality, 
 which they experienced at Hapaee. 
 
 Accompanied by a few of the king's attendants, and Omai as inter- 
 preter, they walked out to take a view of a fiatooka, or burying-place, 
 which they had observed to be nearly by the house, and was much 
 more extensive, and seemingly of more consequence, than any they had 
 seen at the other islands. They were told it belonged to the king. It 
 consists of three pretty large houses, situated upon a rising ground, 
 or rather just by the brink of it, with a small one at some distance, all 
 ranged longitudinally. The middle house of the first three was much the 
 largest, and placed in a square, twenty-four paces by twenty-eight, raised 
 about three feet. The other houses were placed on little mounts, raised 
 artificially to the same height. The floors of these houses, as also the 
 tops of the mounts round them, were covered with loose, fine pebbles, 
 and the whole was enclosed by large flat stones of hard coral rock, pro- 
 perly hewn, placed on their edges ; one of which stones measured twelve 
 feet in length, two in breadth, and above one in thickness. One of the 
 bouses, contrary to what they had seen before, was open on one side ; 
 
276 VOYAGES ROtTNO THE WORLD. 
 
 and within it were two rude, wooden busts of men ; one near the entranccr, 
 and the other farther in. On inquiring of the natives who had followed 
 them to the ground, but durst not enter, what these images were intended 
 for, they made them sensible they were merely memorials of some chiefs 
 who had been buried there, and not the representations of any Deity. 
 Such monuments, it should seem, are seldom raised ; for these had pro- 
 bably been erected several ages ago. They were told the dead had been 
 buried in each of these houses ; but no marks of this appeared. In one 
 of them was the carved head of an Otaheitean canoe, which had been 
 driven ashore on their coast, and deposited here. At the foot of the 
 rising ground was a large area, or grass-plot, with different trees planted 
 about it, among which were several of those called etoa, very large. 
 These, as they resemble the cypress, had a fine effect in such a place. 
 There was also a row of low palms near one of the houses, and behind 
 it a ditch, in which lay a great number of old baskets. 
 
 Amsterdam, Tongalaboo, or (as the native* also very frequently called it) 
 Tonga, is about twenty leagues in circuit, somewhat oblong, though by much 
 the broadest at the east end ; and its greatest length is from east to west. 
 
 The island may, with great propriety, be called a low one, as the trees 
 on the west part, where they now lay at anchor, only appeared ; and the 
 only eminent part which can be seen from a ship is the south-east point. 
 The general appearance of the country does not afford that beautiful kind 
 of landscape that is produced from a variety of hills and valleys, lawns, 
 rivulets, and cascades ; but, at the same time, it conveys an idea of the 
 most exuberant fertility, whether we respect the places improved by art, 
 or those still in a natural state ; both which yield all their vegetable pro- 
 ductions with the greatest vigour and perpetual verdure. 
 
 On the 10th, at eight o'clock in the morning, they weighed anchor, 
 and were enabled to stretch away for Middleburg, or Eooa, (as it is 
 called by the inhabitants,) where they anchored at eight o'clock the next 
 morning. Cook put ashore, at this island, a ram and two ewes of the 
 Cape of Good Hope breed of sheep, entrusting them to the care of 
 Taoofa, who seemed proud of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, 
 that Mareewagee, to whom he had given them, slighted the present. 
 Eooa not having as yet got any dogs upon it, seemed to be a more proper 
 place than Tongataboo for the rearing of sheep. 
 
 As they lay at anchor, this island bore a very different aspect from any 
 they had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful landscape. It is higher 
 than any they had passed since leaving New Zealand, and from its top, 
 which is almost fiat, declines very gently toward the sea. As the other, 
 isles of this cluster are level, the eye can discover nothing but the trees 
 that cover them ; but here the land, rising gently upward, presents an 
 extensive prospect, where groves of trees are only interspersed at irregu- 
 lar distances, in beautiful disorder, and the rest covered with grass. Near 
 the shore, again, it is quite shaded with various trees, among which are 
 the habitations of the natives ; and to the right of their station was one 
 of the most extensive groves of cocoa palms they had ever seen. On the 
 13th a party made an excursion to the highest part of the island, which 
 was a little to the right of the ships, in order to have a full view of the 
 country. About half-way up, they crossed a deep valley, the bottom and 
 sides of which, though composed of hardly anything but coral rocks, were 
 clothed with trees. 
 
 Soon after they weighed, and with a light breeze at south-east stood 
 out to sea, and then Taoofa, and a few other natives that were in the ship. 
 
• JAMBS COOK. 27? 
 
 left them. According to the information they received here, this archi- 
 pelago is very extensive. Above 150 islands were reckoned up to thorn 
 by the natives, who made use of bits of leaves to ascertain their number ; 
 and Mr. Anderson, with his usual diligence, even procured all their names. 
 Fifteen of them are said to be high or hilly, such as Toofoa and Eooa ; 
 and thirty-five of them large. Of these only three were seen this voyage : 
 Hapaee, (which is considered by the natives as one island,) Tongataboo, 
 and Eooa, of the size of the unexplored thirty-two, nothing more can be 
 mentioned, but that they must be all larger than Annamooka ; which 
 those from whom they had received their mformation ranked among the 
 smaller isles. Some, or indeed several of this latter denomination, are 
 mere spots, without inhabitants. But it must be left to future navigators 
 to introduce into the geography of this part of the South Pacific Ocean 
 the exact situation and size of near a hundred more islands in this neigh- 
 bourhood, which they had not an opportunity to explore. 
 
 At eleven o'clock in the morning of the 8th of August, land was seen, 
 bearing north-north-east, nine or ten leagues distant. At first it appeared 
 in detached hills, like separate islands ; but as they drew nearer, found 
 that they were all connected. Two canoes having advanced to about 
 the distance of a pistol shot from the ship, there stopped. After making 
 several unsuccessful attempts to induce these people to come alongside, 
 they made sail to the north, but not without getting the name of their 
 island, which they called Toobouai. It is situated in the latitude of 23 
 degrees 25 minutes south, and in 210 degrees 37 minutes east longitude. 
 Its greatest extent, in any direction, exclusive of the reef, is not above 
 five or six miles. 
 
 At daybreak, on the morning of the 12th, they saw the Island of 
 Maitea. Soon after, Otaheitc made its appearance. A chief, whom they 
 had known before, named Ootee, and Omai's brother-in-law, who chanced 
 to be now at this corner of the island, and three or four more persons, 
 all of whom knew Omai before he embarked with Captain Furneaux, 
 came on board. Yet there was nothing tender or striking in their meet- 
 ing. On the contrary, there seemed to be a perfect indifierence on both 
 sides, till Omai, having taken his brother down into the cabin, opened 
 the drawer where he kept his red feathers, and gave him a few. This 
 being presently known among the rest of the natives upon deck, the 
 face of affairs was entirely turned, and Ootee, who would hardly speak 
 to Omai before, now begged that they might be tayos, (friends,) and ex- 
 change names. Omai accepted of the honour, and confirmed it with a 
 present of red feathers ; and Ootee, by way of return, sent ashore for a 
 hog. Soou after they had anchored, Omai's sister came on board to see 
 him. They were happy to observe that, much to the honour of both, 
 their meeting was marked with expressions of the tenderest affection, 
 easier to be conceived than to be described. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 1st of September, a messenger arrived 
 from Towha, to acquaint Otoo that he had killed a man to be sacrificed 
 to the Eatooa, to implore the assistance of the god against Eimeo, which 
 had revolted from the authority of Otaheite. This act of worship was 
 to be performed at the great Morai at Attahooroo ; and Otoo's presence, 
 it seems, was absolutely necessary on that solemn occasion. That the 
 offering of human sacrifices is part of the religious institutions of this 
 island, has been mentioned by M. de Bougainville, on the authority of 
 the native whom he carried with him to France. 
 
 The unhappy victim offered to the object of their worship upon thi» 
 24 
 
378 * VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. • 
 
 occasion seemed to be a middle-aged man ; and, as they were told, W«i 
 a toutou, that is, one of the lowest class of the people. Those who are 
 devoted to suffer, in order to perform this bloody act of worship, are never 
 apprised of their fate, till the blow is given that puts an end to their ex- 
 istence. Whenever any one of the great chiefs thinks a human sacrifice 
 necessary, on any particular emergency, he pitches upon the victim. Some 
 of his trusty servants are then sent, who fall upon him suddenly, and 
 put him to death with a club, or by stoning him. The king is next 
 acquainted with it, whose presence at the solemn rites that follow is 
 absolutely necessary. 
 
 At daybreak, in the morning of the SOth, after leaving Otaheite, they 
 stood for the north end of Eimeo ; the harbour which they wished to ex- 
 amine being at that part of it. Omai, in his canoe, having arrived there 
 long before them, had taken some necessary measures to show the place. 
 This harbour, which is called Taloo, is situated upon the north side of 
 the island, in the district of Oboonohoo, or Poonohoo. It rans in south, 
 or south by east, between the hills, above two miles. For security and 
 goodness of its bottom, it is not inferior to any harbour at any of the islands 
 in this ocean. 
 
 On the 2d Maheine, the chief of the island, paid them a visit. He ap- 
 proached the ship with great caution, and it required some persuasion to 
 get him on board. Probably he was under some apprehensions of mis- 
 chief from them, as friends of the Otaheiteans ; these people not being 
 able to comprehend how they can be friends with any one, without adopt- 
 ing, at the same time, his cause against his enemies. Maheine was 
 accompanied by his wife, who is sister to Oamo, of Otaheite. This chief, 
 who, with a few followers, has made himself in a manner independent of 
 Otaheite, is between forty and fifty years old. He is bald-headed, which 
 is rather an uncommon appearance in these islands at that age. He 
 wore a kind of turban, and seemed ashamed to show his head. 
 
 Having left Eimeo with a gentle breeze and fine weather, at daybreak 
 the next morning saw Huaheine. At noon they anchored at the north 
 entrance of Owharre harbour, on the west side of the island. Their ar- 
 rival brought all the principal people of the island to the ships the next 
 morning, being the 13ih. This was just what they wished, as it was high 
 time to think of settling Omai ; and the presence of these chiefs would 
 enable Cook to do it in the most satisfactory manner. One of them im- 
 mediately expressed himself to this eflFect : *' that the whole island of 
 Huaheine, and everything in it, were the captain's ; and that, therefore, 
 he might give what portion of it he pleased to his friend." Omai, who, 
 like the rest of his countrymen, seldom sees things beyond the present 
 moment, was greatly pleased to hear this, thinking, no doubt, that he 
 should be very liberal, and give him enough. Upon this, some chiefs, 
 who had left the assembly, were sent for ; and, after a short consultation 
 among themselves, the request was granted by general consent, and the 
 ground immediately pitched upon, adjoining to the house where the meet- 
 ing was held. The extent along the shore of the harbour was about two 
 hundred yards ; and its depth, to the foot of the hill, somewhat more ; but 
 a proportional part of the hill was included in the grant. 
 
 Omai now began seriously to attend to his own aflfairs, and repented 
 heartily of his ill-judged prodigality while at Otaheite. He found at Hua- 
 heine a brother, a sister, and a brother-in-law — the sister being married. 
 But these did not plunder him, as he had lately been by his other relations. 
 vAs soon as Omai was settled in his new habitation, Cook began to think 
 
lAMES COOK. 279 
 
 of leaving the island ; and got everything oif from the shore this evening, 
 except the horse and mare, and a goat big with kid, which were left in the 
 possession of his friend, with whom they were now finally to part. He 
 also gave him a boar and two sows of the English breed ; and he had got 
 a sow or two of his own. The horse covered the mare while at Otaheite ; 
 so that the introduction of a breed of horses into these islands is likely 
 to have succeeded by this valuable present. 
 
 He had picked up at Otaheite four or five toutous ; the two New 
 Zealand youths remained with him ; and his brother, and some others, 
 joined him at Huaheine ; so that his family consisted already of eight or 
 ten persons, if that can be called a family to which not a single female 
 as yet belonged, nor was Ukely to belong, unless its master became less 
 volatile. At present, Omai did not seem at all disposed to take unto 
 himself a wife. The house which they erected for him was twenty-four 
 feet by eighteen, and ten feet high. His European weapons consisted of 
 a musket, bayonet, and cartouch-box, a fowling-piece, two pair of pistols, 
 and two or three swords or cutlasses. 
 
 On the 2d of November, at four in the afternoon, they took the advan- 
 tage of a breeze which then sprung up at east, and sailed out of the har- 
 bour. Omai went ashore, after taking a very aflfectionate farewell of all 
 the officers. He sustained himself with a manly resolution till he came 
 to the captain ; then his utmost efforts to conceal his tears failed ; and 
 Mr. King, who went in the boat, said that he wept all the time in going 
 ashore. The boat which carried Omai having returned to the ship, they 
 stood over for Ulietea, where they intended to touch next. 
 
 In the morning of the 7th of December, took the advantage of a light 
 breeze ; and, with the assistance of all the boats, got out to sea, with the 
 Discovery in company. As soon as they were clear of the harbour, they 
 steered for Bolabola. Oreo, and six or eight men more from Ulietea, took 
 a passage with them. Indeed most of the natives in general, except the 
 chief himself, would have gladly taken a passage to England. At sunset, 
 being the length of the south point of Bolabola, they shortened sail, and 
 spent the night, making short boards. At daybreak, on the 8th, made sail 
 for the harbour, which is on the west side of the island. 
 
 After leaving Bolabola, they steered to the northward. On the 24th, 
 after daybreak, land was discovered. Upon a nearer approach, it was 
 found to be one of those low islands so common in this ocean ; that is, a 
 narrow bank of land enclosing the sea within. A few cocoa nut trees 
 were seen in two or three places ; but, in general, the land had a very 
 barren appearance. As they kept their Christmas here, it was called 
 Christmas Island. They judged it to be about fifteen or twenty leagues in 
 circumference. 
 
 On the 2d of January resumed their course to the north. At daybreak 
 in the morning of the 18ih, an island made its appearance, bearing north- 
 east by east ; and soon after saw more land bearing north, and entirely 
 detached from the former. Latitude at this time, 21 degrees 12 minutes 
 north, and longitude 200 degrees 41 minutes east. At this time they 
 were in some doubt whether the land was inhabited ; but this doubt was 
 soon cleared up, by seeing some canoes coming off from the shore toward 
 the ships. They had from three to six men each ; and, on their approach, 
 they were agreeably surprised to find that they spoke the language of 
 Otaheite and of the other islands lately visited. Cook, in the course of 
 his voyages, never before met with the natives of any place so much asto- 
 nished as these were upon entering a ship. Their eyes were continually 
 
2S0 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 flying from object to object ; tbe wildness of their looks and gestures fully 
 expressing their entire ignorance about everything they saw, strongly mark- 
 ing that, till now, they had never been visited by Europeans. 
 
 The ships being stationed, Cook went ashore, with three armed boats 
 and twelve marines, to examine the water and to try the disposition of 
 the inhabitants. The very instant he leaped on land, the collected body 
 of natives all fell flat upon their faces, and remained in that very humble 
 posture till, by expressive signs, he prevailed upon them to rise. They 
 then brought a great many small pigs, which they presented to him, with 
 plantain trees, using much the same ceremonies practised on such occa- 
 sions at the Society and other islands. A trade was set on foot for hogs 
 and potatoes, which the people gave in exchange for nails and pieces of 
 iron formed into something like chisels. They met with no obstruction in 
 watering ; on the contrary, the natives assisted the men in rolling the casks 
 to and from the pool, and readily performed whatever they required. 
 
 At daybreak, on the 24th, they found that the currents had earned the 
 ship to the north-west and north ; so that the west end of the island, 
 upon which they had been, called Atooi by the natives, bore east, one 
 league distant ; another island, called Oreehoua, west by south ; and the 
 high land of a third island, called Oneeheow, from south-west by west to 
 west-south-west. 
 
 Of what number this newly-discovered archipelago consists must be 
 left for future investigation. They saw five, whose names, as given by 
 the natives, are Woahoo, Atooi, Oneeheow, Oreehoua, and Tahoora. 
 They named the whole group the Sandwich Islands, in honour of the 
 Earl of Sandwich. Those they saw are situated between the latitude 
 of 21 degrees 30 minutes and 22 degrees 15 minutes north, and between 
 the longitude of 199 degrees 20 minutes and 201 degrees 30 minutes east. 
 
 The inhabitants are of a middling stature, firmly made, with some ex- 
 ceptions, neither remarkable for a beautiful shape, nor for striking features, 
 which rather express an openness and good-nature, than a keen intelligent 
 disposition. They are vigorous, active, and most expert swimmers ; leaving 
 their canoes upon the most trifling occasion, diving under them, and swim- 
 ming to others, though at a great distance. It was very common to see 
 women with infants at the breast, when the surf was so high that they could 
 not land in the canoes, leap overboard, and, without endangering their 
 little ones, swim to the shore through a sea that looked dreadful. 
 
 After the Discovery had joined, they stood away to the northward. 
 On the 6th of March, being in the latitude of 44 degrees 10 minutes north, 
 and the longitude of 234^ degrees cast, at daybreak the next morning 
 the long looked-for coast of New Albion was seen, distant ten or twelve 
 leagues. In the morning of the 20th, standing to the north-ca'st, they 
 again saw the land. Between two points the shore forms a large bay, 
 which they called Hope Bay ; hoping, from the appearance of the land, to 
 find in it a good harbour. The event proved they were not mistaken. 
 Three canoes came off to the ship ; in one of these were two men, in 
 another six, and in the third ten. Having come pretty near, a person in 
 one of the last two stood up, and made a long harangue, inviting them 
 to land by his gestures. At the same time he kept strewing handsful of 
 feathers toward them, and some of his companions threw handsful of a 
 red dust or powder in the same manner. The person who played the 
 orator wore the skin of some animal, and held in each hand something 
 which rattled as he kept shaking it. 
 
 A great many canoes, filled with the natives, were about the ships, and 
 
JAMES COOK. 281 
 
 8 trade commenced, which was carried on with the strictest honesty on 
 both sides. The articles they offered for sale were skins of various animals, 
 such as bears, wolves, foxes, deer, racoons, pole-cats, martins, and in 
 particular of the sea-otters, which are found at the islands east of Kam- 
 tschalka. Besides the skins in their native shape, they also brought gar- 
 ments made of them, and another sort of cloihing made of the bark of a 
 tree, or some plant like hemp ; weapons, such as bows, arrows, and spears,' 
 fish-hooks, and instruments of various kinds, wooden vizors of many dif- 
 ferent monstrous figures, a sort of woollen stutf, or blanketing, bags filled 
 with red ochre, pieces of carved work, beads, and several other little or- 
 naments of thin brass and iron, shaped like a horse-shoe, which they hang 
 at their noses, and several chisels, or pieces of iron, fixed to handles. 
 From their possessing which metals, they had either been visited before 
 by some civilized nation, or had connexions with tribes on their continent, 
 who had communication with them. But the most extraordinary of all 
 the articles brought to the ships for sale, were human skulls and hands 
 not yet quite stripped of the flesh, which they made their people plainly 
 understand they had eaten ; and, indeed, some of them had evident marks 
 they had been upon the fire. They had but too much reason to suspect, 
 from this circumstance, that the horrid practice of feeding on their ene- 
 mies is as prevalent here as at New Zealand and other South Sea Islands. 
 For the various articles which they brought, they took in exchange knives, 
 chisels, pieces of iron and tin, nails, looking-glasses, buttons, or any kind 
 of metal. Glass beads they were not fond of, and cloth of every sort they 
 rejected. 
 
 On their arrival in this inlet, Cook had honoured it with the name of 
 King George's Sound ; but afterward found that it is called Nootka by 
 the natives. The entrance is situated in the east corner of Hope Bay, 
 in the latitude of 49 degrees 33 minutes north, and in the longitude of 
 233 degrees 12 minutes east. 
 
 Having put to sea on the evening of the 26th, with strong signs of an 
 approaching storm, these signs did not deceive them. Fortunately the wind 
 veered no farther southerly than south-east ; so that, at daylight the next 
 morning, they were quite clear of the coast. In latitude 68 degrees 53 
 minutes, and longitude 220 degrees 52 minutes, the summit of an elevated 
 mountain appeared above the horizon, bearing north 26 degrees west, and, 
 as was afterward found, forty leagues distant. They supposed it to be 
 Beering's Mount St. Elias ; and it stands by that name in their chart. 
 
 To an inlet, which they now entered, Cook gave the name of Prince 
 "William's Sound. To judge of this sound from what they saw of it, it 
 occupies at least a degree and a half of latitude, and two of longitude, 
 exclusive of the arms or branches, the extent of which is not known. The 
 natives, who came on several visits, were generally not above the common 
 height, though many of them were under it. They were square, or strong- 
 chested ; and the most disproportioned part of their body seemed to be 
 their heads, which were very large, with thick short necks ; and large 
 broad or spreading faces, which, upon the whole, were flat. Their eyes, 
 though not small, scarcely bore a proportion to the size of their faces ; 
 and their noses had full, round pomts, hooked or turned up at the tip. 
 Their teeth were broad, white, equal in size, and unevenly set. Their 
 hair was black, thick, straight, and strong, and their beards, in gene:>al, 
 thin or wanting ; but the hairs about the lips of those who have them were 
 stiff or bristly, and frequently of a brown colour. And several of tho 
 elderly men had even large and thick, but straight, beards. 
 
 24* 
 
282 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 After leaving this sound, they steered ta the south-west, with a gentle 
 breeze at north-north-east. From Cape Bede the coast trended north- 
 east by east, with a chain of mountains inland, extending in the same 
 direction. The land on th€ coast was woody, and tiiere seemed to be no 
 deficiency of harbours. They discovered low land in the middle of an 
 inlet, extending from north-north-east to north-east by east half east. 
 As it continued calm all day, they did not move till eight o'clock in the 
 evening, when, with a light breeze at east, they weighed and stood to the 
 north, Xip the inlet. Until they got thus far, the water had retained the 
 same degree of saltness at low as at high water, and at both periods 
 was as salt as that in the ocean. But now the marks of a river displayed 
 themselves. The water taken up this ebb, when at the lowest, was found 
 to be considerably fresher than any hitherto tasted : insomuch that Cook 
 was convinced they were in a large river, and not in a strait, communicating 
 with the northern seas. By means of this river and its several branches 
 a very extensive inland communication lies open. They traced it as high 
 as the latitude of 61 degrees 30 minutes, and the longitude of 210 degrees, 
 which is seventy leagues or more from its entrance, without seeing the 
 least appearance of its source. If the discovery of this great river, which 
 promises to vie with the most considerable ones already known to be capable 
 of extensive inland navigation, should prove of use either to the presenter 
 to any future age, the time spent in it ought to be the less regretted. 
 Captain Cook having here left a blank, which he bad not filled up with 
 any particular name. Lord Sandwich directed, with the greatest propriety, 
 that it should be called Cook's River. 
 
 As soon as the ebb tide made they weighed, and, with a light breeze, 
 plied down the river. At eight in the evening the Island of St. Hermo- 
 genes extended from south half east to south-south-east a quarter east. 
 On the 17th the wind was between west and north-west, a gentle breeze, 
 and sometimes almost calm. The weather was clear, and the air sharp 
 and dry. At noon the continent extended from south-west to north by 
 east, ihe nearest part seven leagues distant. A large group of islands, 
 lying about the same distance from the continent, extended from south 
 26 degrees west, to south 52 degrees west. They had now land in every 
 direction. That to the south extended to the south-west, in a ridge of 
 mountains ; but their sight could not determine whether it composed one 
 or more islands. They afterward found it to be only one island, and 
 known by the name of Oonalaska. 
 
 Mr. Anderson, the surgeon, who had been lingering under a consump- 
 tion for more than twelve months, expired, 2d of August. He was a 
 sensible young man, an agreeable companion, well skilled in his own pro- 
 fession, and had acquired considerable knowledge in other branches of 
 science. Soon after he had breathed his last, land was seen to the west- 
 ward, twelve leagues distant. It was supposed to be an island ; and, to 
 perpetuate the memory of the deceased, for whom Cook had a very great 
 regard, he named it Anderson's Island. 
 
 The point of land which Cook named Cape Prince of Wales is the more 
 remarkable, by being the most western extremity of all America hitherto 
 known. It is situated in the latitude of 65 degrees 46 minutes, and in the 
 longitude of 168 degrees 5 minutes west. At daybreak, on the 10th, re- 
 sumed their course to the west for the land seen the preceding evening. 
 Between the south-wes*^^ extreme and a point which bore west, two leagues 
 distant, the shore forms a large bay, in which they anchored at ten o'clock 
 in the forenoon. At first they supposed this land to be a part of the island 
 
JAMES COOK. 283 
 
 of Alaschka. But from the figure of the coast, the situation of the oppo- 
 site shore of America, and from the longitude, they soon began to think 
 that it was, more probably, the country of the Tsehutski, or the eastern 
 extremity of Asia, explored by Beering, in 1723: A breeze of wind 
 springirig up at north, they weighed, and stood to the westward, which 
 course soon brought them into deep water ; and, during the 12th, plied 
 to the north, both coasts being in sight, but they kept nearest to that of 
 America. 
 
 Next morning the wind blew a strong gale, which abated at noon : and 
 the sun shining out, they were, by observation, in the latitude of 68 de- 
 grees 18 minutes. Some time before noon next day perceived a bright- 
 ness in the northern horizon, like that reflected from ice, commonly called 
 the blink. It was little noticed, from a supposition that it was improbable 
 they should meet with ice so soon. About an hour after, the sight of a 
 large field of ice left them no longer in doubt. At half-past two tacked 
 close to the edge of the ice, in twenty-two fathoms water, being then in 
 the latitude of 70 degrees 41 minutes, not being able to stand on any further. 
 They now stood to the southward ; at this time the weather, which had 
 been hazy, clearing up a little, they saw land extending from south to south- 
 east by east, about three or four miles distant. The eastern extreme 
 forms a point, which was much encumbered with ice ; for which reason 
 it obtained the name of Icy Cape, Its latitude is 70 degrees 29 minutes, 
 and its longitude 163 degrees 20 minutes. 
 
 Having now fully satisfied himself, Cook thought it high time to think 
 of leaving these northern regions, and to retire to some place during the 
 winter where he might procure refreshments for his people, and a small 
 supply of provisions. Petropaulowska, or the harbour of St. Peter and 
 St. Paul, in Kamtschalka, did not appear likely to furnish either the one 
 or the other, for so large a number of men. No place was so conveniently 
 within reach as the Sandwich Islands. To them, therefore, they de- 
 termined to proceed. 
 
 On the 2d of October, at daybreak, saw the -Island of Oonalaska, 
 bearing so«th-east. At one o'clock, in the afternoon of the 3d, they 
 anchored in Samganoodha Harbour. They got plenty of fish, at first mostly 
 salmon, both fresh and dried, which the natives brought. Some of the 
 fresh salmon was in high perfection, but there was one sort, called hook- 
 nosed, from the figure of its head, that was but indifferent. They drew 
 the seine several times at the head of the bay, and caught a good many 
 salmon-trout, and once a halibut that weighed two hundred and fifty-foui 
 pounds. The fishery failing, they had recourse to hooks and lines. A 
 boat was sent out every morning, and seldom returned without eight or ten 
 halibut, which was more than sufficient to serve all the people. The halibut 
 were excellent, and there were few who did not prefer them to salmon. 
 
 In the morning of the 26th of October, th'ey put to sea from Samga- 
 noodha harbour ; and as the wind was southerly, stood away to the west- 
 ward. They continued to steer to the southward till daylight in the 
 morning of the 25th of November, at which time they were in the latitude 
 of 20 degrees 55 minutes. At daybreak, next morning, land was seen 
 extending from south-south-east to west. It was supposed that they savr 
 the extent of the land to the east, but not to the west. They were now 
 satisfied that the group of the Sandwich Islands had been only imperfectly 
 discovered ; as those of them visited in their progress northward all lie 
 to the leeward of their present station. Seeing some canoes coming ofl, 
 they brought-to. As soon as they got alongside, many of the people, who 
 
284 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 conducted them came into the ship, without the least hesitation. They 
 found them to be of the same nation with the inhabitants of the islands 
 morft to leeward, already visited ; and they knew of their having been 
 there. In the evening they discovered another island to windward, 
 which the natives call Owyhee. The name of that off which they had 
 been for some days is Mowee. At seven in the evening were close up 
 with the north side of Owyhee. In the morning of the 2d, they were 
 surprised to see the summits of the mountains covered with snow. They 
 did not appear to be of any extraordinary height ; and yet, in some places, 
 the snow seemed to be of a considerable depth, and to have lain there 
 some time. 
 
 At daybreak, on the 16th, seeing the appearance of a bay, Cook sent 
 Mr. Bligh, with a boat from each ship, to examine it, being at this time 
 three leagues off. At eleven o'clock in the forenoon, they anchored in 
 the bay called by the natives Karakakooa. The ships continued to be 
 much crowded with natives, and were surrounded by a multitude of canoes. 
 They had nowhere, in the course of their voyages, seen so numerous a 
 body of people assembled at one place. For, besides those who had come 
 off in canoes, all the shore of the bay was covered with spectators, and 
 many hundreds were swimming round the ships like shoals of fish. They 
 could not but be struck with the singularity of this scene ; and perhaps 
 there were few on board who now lamented their having failed to find a 
 northern passage homeward last summer. To this disappointment they 
 owed having it in tlieir power to revisit the Sandwich Islands, and to 
 enrich the voyage with a discovery which, though the last, seemed in many 
 respects to be the most important that had hitherto been made by Euro- 
 peans, throughout the extent of the Pacific Ocean. 
 
 Karakakooa Bay is situated on the west side of the Island of Owyhee, 
 in a district called Akona. It is about a mile in depth, and bounded by 
 two low points of land, at the distance of half a league. On the north 
 point, which is flat and barren, stands the village of Kowrowa ; and at the 
 bottom of the bay, near a grove of tall cocoa nut trees, there is another 
 village of a more considerable size, called Kakooa ; beSweeiT them runs 
 a high rocky cliff, inaccessible from the sea-shore. 
 
 As soon as the inhabitants perceived their intention of anchoring in the 
 bay, they came off from the shore in astonishing numbers, and expressed 
 their joy by singing and shouting, and exhibiting a variety of wild and ex- 
 travagant gestures. The sides, the decks, and rigging of both ships, were 
 soon completely covered with them ; and a multitude of women and 
 boys, who had not been able to get canoes, came swimming round in 
 shoals, many of whom, not finding room on board, remainetl the whole 
 day playing in the water. Among the chiefs who came on board the 
 Resolution, was a young man, called Pareea, whom they soon perceived 
 to be a person of great authority. On presenting himself to Captain Cook, 
 he told him, that he was Jakanee to the king of the island, who was at 
 that time engaged on a military expedition at Mowee, and was expected 
 to return within three or four days. A few presents from Captain Cook 
 attached him entirely to their interests, and he became exceedingly use- 
 ful in the management of his countrymen. Kaneena, another of their 
 chiefs, likewise attached himself to Captain Cook. Both these were men 
 of strong and well proportioned bodies, and of countenances remarkably 
 pleasing. Their two friends, Pareea and Kaneena, brought on board a 
 third chief, named Koah, who was a priest, and had been, in his youth, 
 a distinguished warrior. He was a little old man, of an emaciated figure j 
 
JAMES COOK, 285 
 
 his eyes exceedingly sore and red, and his body covered with a white leprous 
 scurf, the effects of an immoderate use of the ava. Being led into the cabin, 
 he approached Captain Cook with great veneration, and threw over his 
 shoulders a piece of red cloth, which he had brought along with lum. 
 
 During the rest of the time they remained in the bay, whenever Captain 
 Cook came on shore, he was attended by one of the priests, who went 
 before him, giving notice that the Orono had landed, and ordering the 
 people to prostrate themselves. The same person also constantly accom- 
 panied him on the water, standing in the bow of the boat, with a wand in 
 his hand, and g ving notice of his approach to the natives, who were in 
 canoes, on which they immediately left offpaddling and lay down on theii 
 faces till he had passed. Whenever he stopped at the observatory, Kai- 
 reekeea and his brethren immediately made their appearance with hogs, 
 cocoa nuts, bread fruit, &c., and presented them with the usual solemni- 
 ties. It was on these occasions that some of the infeiior chiefs frequently 
 requested to be permitted to make an offering to the Orono. When this 
 was granted, they presented the hog themselves, generally with evident 
 marks of fear in their countenances ; while Kaireekeea and the priests 
 chanted their accustomed hymns. The 25th the king, in a large canoe, 
 attended by two others, set out from the village, and paddled toward tho 
 ships in great stale. Their appearance was grand and magnificent. In 
 the first canoe was Terrcooboo and his chiefs, dressed in their rich fea- 
 thered cloaks and helmets, and armed with long spears and daggers : in 
 the second came the venerable Kaoo, the chief of the priests, and his 
 brethern, with their idols displayed on red cloth. These idols were busts 
 of a gigantic size, made of wicker-work, and curiously covered with small 
 feathers of various colours, wrought in the same manner with their cloaks. 
 Their eyes were made of large pearl oysters, with a black nut fixed in the 
 centre ; their mouths were set with a double row of the fangs of dogs, 
 and, together with the rest of their features, were strangely distorted. 
 The third canoe was filled with hogs and various sorts of vegetables. 
 As they went along, the priests in the centre canoe sung their hymns 
 with great solemnity ; and, after paddling round tho ships, instead of 
 going on board, as was expected, they made toward the shore at the beach 
 where the English were stationed. 
 
 Early on the 4th of February they unmoored, and sailed out of the bay, 
 with the Discovery in company, and were followed by a great number of 
 canoes. On the 8th, at daybreak, found that the foremast had again 
 given away ; the fishes which were put on the head, in King George's 
 or Nootka Sound, on the coast of America, being sprung, and the parts 
 so very defective, as to make it absolutely necessary to replace them, and, 
 of course, to unstep the mast. Stood off and on till daylight of ttie 13th, 
 and dropped anchor nearly in the same place as Kefore. 
 
 Upon coming to anchor, they were surprised to find their reception very 
 different from what it had been on their first arrival ; no shouts, no bustle, 
 no confusion ; but a solitary bay, with only here and there a canoe steal- 
 ing close along the shore. The Discovery's cutter was stolen, during 
 the night, from the buoy where it was moored. It had been Cook's usual 
 practice, whenever anything of consequence was lost at any of the islands 
 in this ocean, to get the king, or some of the principal earees, on board, 
 and to keep them as hostages till it was restored. He immediately 
 marched into the village, where he was received with the usual marks of 
 respect. They found the old king just awoke from sleep : and, after a 
 ehort conversation about the loss of the cutter, from which Captain Cook 
 
286 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 was convinced that he was in nowise privy to it, he invited him to return 
 in the boat, and spend the day on board the Resolution. To this propo- 
 sal the king readily consented, and immediately got up to accompany 
 him. The two boys were already in the pinnace, and the rest of the 
 party near the water-side, when an elderly woman, called Kanee-kabareea, 
 the mother of the boys, and one of the king's favourite wives, came after 
 him, and with many tears and entreaties besought him not to go on board. 
 At the same time, two chiefs, who came along with her, laid hold of him, 
 and, insisting that he should go no farther, forced him to sit down. The 
 natives, who were collecting in prodigious numbers along the shore, 
 and had probably been alarmed by the finng of the great guns, and the 
 appearances of hostility in the bay, began to throng round Captain Cook 
 and their king. He, therefore, finding that the alarm had spread too 
 generally, and that it was in vain to think any longer of getting him off 
 without bloodshed, at last gave up the point. 
 
 Though the enterprise which had carried Captain Cook on shore was 
 abandoned, yet his person did not appear to have been in the least danger, 
 till an accident happened which gave a fatal turn to the affair. The boats 
 which had been stationed across the bay, having fired at some canoes at- 
 tempting to get out, unfortunately had killed a chief of the first rank. 
 The news of his death arrived at the village where the captain was, just 
 as he had left the king, and was walking slowly toward the shore. The 
 ferment it occasioned was very conspicuous ; the women and children 
 were immediately sent off, and the men put on their war-mats, and 
 armed themselves with spears and stones. Several stones were thrown 
 at the marines, and one of the earees attempted to stab Mr. Phillips. 
 Captain Cook now fired his second barrel, loaded with ball, and killed one 
 of the foremost of the natives. A general attack with stones immediately 
 followed, which was answered by a discharge of musketry from the ma- 
 rines and the people in the boats. What followed was a scene of the 
 utmost horror and confusion. 
 
 Four of the marines were cut off among the rocks in their retreat, and 
 fell a sacrifice to the fury of the enemy ; three more were dangerously 
 wounded, and the lieutenant, who had received a stab between the shoul- 
 ders with a pahooa, having fortunately reserved his fire, shot the man 
 who had wounded him just as he was going to repeat his blow. The 
 unfortunate commander, the last time he was seen distinctly, was stand- 
 ing at the water'.s edge, and calling out to the boats to cease firing, and 
 to pull in. If it be true, that the marines and boatmen had fired without 
 his orders, and that he was desirous of preventing any farther bloodshed, 
 it is not improbable that his humanity, on this occasion, proved fatal to him ; 
 for it was remarked, that while he faced the natives, none of them had 
 offered him any violence, but that, having turned about to give his orders 
 to the boats, he was stabbed in the back, and fell with his face into the 
 water. On seeing him fall, the islanders set up a great shout, and his 
 body was immediately dragged on shore, and surrounded by the enemy, 
 who, snatching the dagger out of each other's hands, showed a savage 
 eagerness to have a share in his destruction. 
 
 Thus fell their great and excellent commander, after a life of so much 
 distinguished and successful enterprise ; his death, as far as regards him- 
 self, cannot be reckoned premature, since he lived to finish the great work 
 for which he seems to have been designed, and was rather removed from 
 the enjoyment, than cutoff from the acquisition of glory. How sincerely 
 his loss was felt and lamented by those who had so long found their ge- 
 
JAMES COOK. 287 
 
 neral security in his skill and conduct, and every consolation under their 
 hardships in his tenderness and humanity, it is neither necessary nor 
 possible to describe ; much less to paint the horror with which they were 
 struck, and the universal dejection and dismay which followed so dreadful 
 and unexpected a calamity. 
 
 The 2lst, Eappo and the king's son came on board, and brought with 
 them the remaining bones of Captain Cook, the barrel of his gun, his 
 shoes, and some other tritles that belonged to him. Eappo took great 
 pains to convince them that Terreooboo, Maiha-maiha, and himself, were 
 most heartily desirous of peace ; that they had given the most convincing 
 proof of it in their power ; and that they had been prevented from giving 
 it sooner by the other chiefs, many of whom were still their enemies. He 
 lamented, with the greatest sorrow, the death of six chiefs they had killed, 
 80me of whom, he said, were among their best friends. The cutter was 
 taken away by Pareea's people ; and that it had been broken up the next 
 day. The arms of the marines, he assured them, had been carried off by 
 the common people, and we;re irrecoverable, the bones of the chief alone 
 having been preserved, as belonging to Terreooboo 'and the earees. 
 Nothing now remained but to perform the last offices to their great and 
 unfortunate commander. Eappo was dismissed with orders to taboo all 
 the bay ; and in the afternoon,' the bones having been put into a coffin, and 
 the service read over them, they were committed to the deep with the 
 usual military honours. 
 
 They got clear of the land about ten o'clock, and hoisting in the boats, 
 stood to the northward. Captain Gierke determined, without farther loss 
 of time, to proceed to Atooi. At eight in the morning weighed, and stood 
 to the norihward till daylight on the 28th, when they bore away for that 
 island. On the 8lh of March, at nine in the morning, weighed, and sailed 
 toward Oneeheow, and at three in the afternoon anchored in twenty 
 fathoms water, nearly on the same spot as in the year 1778. 
 
 On the 15th of March, at seven in the morning, weighed anchor, and 
 on the 23d of April, at six in the morning, being in latitude 52 degrees 9 
 minutes, and longitude 160 degrees 7 minutes, on the fog clearing away, 
 the land of America appeared in mountains covered with snow. On the 
 25th had a transient view of the entrance of Awatsha Bay ; but, in the 
 prtesent state of the weather, were afraid of venturing into it. Having 
 passed its mouth, which is about four miles long, they opened a large 
 circular bason of twenty-five miles in circumference ; and at half-past 
 four came to an anchor in six fathoms water, being afraid of running foul 
 on a shoal, or some sunk rocks, which are said, by Muller, to lie in the 
 channel of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. The middle of the bay 
 was full of loose ice, drifting with the tide ; but the shores were still 
 entirely blocked up with it. Great flocks of wild fowl were seen of vari- 
 ous species ; likewise ravens, eagles, and large flights of Greenland 
 pigeons. They examined every corner of the bay with glasses, in search 
 of the town of St. Peter and St. Paul ; which, according to the accounts 
 given at Oonalaska, they had conceived to be a place of some strength 
 and consideration. At length they discovered, on a nariow point of land 
 to the north-north-east, a few miserable log-houses and some conical 
 huts raised on poles, amounting in all to about thirty ; which, from their 
 situation, notwithstanding all the respect they wished to entertain for a 
 Russian ostrog, they were under the necessity of concluding to be Petro- 
 paulowska. 
 
 In company with Major Behm, the governor, was Captain Shmaleff, 
 
288 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the second in command, and another officer, with the whole body of the 
 merchants of the place. They conducted them to the commander's hous^e, 
 where they were received by his lady with great civility, and found tea 
 and other refreshments prepared. After the first compHments were over, 
 Mr. Webber was desired to acquaint the major with the object of the 
 journey, with their want of naval stores, flour, and fresh provisions, and 
 other necessaries for the ships' crews, and at the same time to assure him 
 they were sensible, from what they had already seen of the condition of 
 the country about Awatsha Bay, they could not expect much assistance 
 from him in that quarter. 
 
 The houses in Bolcheresk, the capital, are all of one fashion, being 
 built of logs, and thatched. That of the commander is much larger than 
 the rest, consisting of three rooms of a considerable size, neatly prepared, 
 and which might have been reckoned handsome if the talc, with which 
 the windows were covered, had not given ihem a poor and disagreeable 
 appearance. The town consists of several rows of low buildings, each 
 consisting of fiv€ or six dwellings, connected together with a long com- 
 mon passage running the lengtli of them, on one side of which is the 
 kitchen and store-house, and on the other the dwelling apartments. 
 Besides these, there are barracks for the Russian soldiers and Cossacks, 
 R well-looking church, and a count-room, and, at the end of the town, 
 a great numVjer of halagans, belonging to the Kamtschatdales. The in- 
 habitants, taken altogether, amount to between five and six hundred. In 
 the evening the major gave a handsome entertainment, to which the 
 principal people of the town of both sexes were invited. The next morn- 
 mg they applied privately to the merchant Fedositsch to purchase some 
 tobacco for the sailors, who had now been upward of a twelvemonth 
 without this favourite commodity. However, this, like all other transac- 
 tions of the same kind, came immediately to the major's knowledge ; and 
 they were soon after surprised to find in their house four bags of tobacco, 
 weighing upvi^ard of 100 pounds each, which he begged might be pre- 
 sented, in the name of himself and the garrison under his command, to 
 the sailors. 
 
 On the 16th of June, at daylight, weighed anchor, and stood out of 
 the bay. At ten at night, July 5th, the weather becoming clear, they 
 had an opportunity of seeing, at the same moment, the remarkable peaked, 
 hill near Cape Prince of Wales, on the coast of America, and the east 
 cape of Asia, with the two connected islands of St. Diomede between them. 
 
 On the 21st, the wind freshening and the fog clearing away, they saw 
 the American coast to the south-east, at the distance of eight or ten 
 leagues, and hauled in for it; but were stopped again by the ice, and 
 obliged to bear away to the westward, along the edge of it. Thus a con- 
 nected solid field of ice rendering every effort they could make to a nearer 
 approach to the land fruitless, they took a last farewell of a north-east 
 passage to Old England. On the 22d of August,. 1779, died Captain 
 Charles Clerke, in the thirty-eight year of his age. He died of a con- 
 sumption, which had evidently commenced before he left England, and 
 of which he had lingered during the whole voyage. 
 
 At noon, on the 25th, a fresh breeze springing up from the eastward, 
 they stood in for the entrance of Awatsha Bay ; when, by the help of a 
 fresh breeze, they anchored in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. 
 Captain Gore made out the new commissions, in consequence of Captain 
 Gierke's death, appointing himself to the command of the Resolution, 
 and Lieutenant King to the command of the Discovery. 
 
JAMES COOK. 289 
 
 At six o'clock in the evening of the 9th of October, having cleared the 
 entrance of Awatsha Bay, they steered to the south-east, with the wind 
 north-west and by west. At daybreak, on the 13th, they saw the second 
 of the Kurile Islands, (called by the Russians Paramousir.) This land 
 is very high, and almost entirely covered with snow. At daybreak of 
 the 26th they had the pleasure of descrying high land to the westward, 
 which proved to be Japan. At this time saw a number of Japanese vessels 
 close in with the land, several seemingly engaged in fishing, and others 
 standing along the shore. They now discovered to the westward a remar- 
 kabU high mountain, with a round top, rising far inland. There is no 
 high grtWflll«4iear it, the coast being of a moderate elevation, and, as far 
 as they coulc^udge, from the haziness of the horizon, much broken by 
 small inlets, ^ 
 
 In the forenoon of the 29th they passed several Chinese fishing-boats, 
 who eyed them with great indiflference. At nine o'clock of the 31st 
 came to anchor in six fathoms water ; the town of Macao bearing north- 
 west, three leagues distant. 
 
 While they lay in the Typa, Captain King was shown, in a garden 
 belonging to an English gentleman at Macao, the rock under which, 
 as the tradition there goes, the poet Camoens used to sit and compose 
 his Lusiad. It is a lofty arch, of one solid stone, and forms the entrance 
 of a grotto dug out of the rising ground behind it. The rock is over- 
 shadowed by large spreading trees, and commands an extensive and mag- 
 nificent view of the sea and the interspersed islands. 
 
 On the 12th of January, 1780, at noon, they unmoored, and scaled the 
 guns. On the 17th had heavy gales from the east by north, with a rough 
 tumbling sea, and the weather overcast and boisterous. In the morning 
 of the 20th, the wind becoming more moderate, they let out the reefs, 
 and steered west by south for Pulo Condore. At six anchored, with the 
 best bovv^er, in six fathoms. Pulo Condore is high and mountainous, and 
 surrounded by several smaller islands, some of which are less than one, 
 and others two miles distant. It takes its name from two Malay words 
 Pulo signifying an island, and Condore a calabash, of which it produces 
 great quantities. It is of the form of a crescent, extending near eight 
 miles from the southernmost point, in a north-east direction ; but its 
 breadth nowhere exceeds two miles. 
 
 On the 28lh of January unmoored ; and, as soon as they were clear of 
 the harbour, steered south-south-west for PuloTimoan. At daylight on 
 the 3d they came in sight of the Three Islands ; and soon after, of 
 Monopin Hill, on the Island of Banca. 
 
 From the time of entering the Strait of Banca, they began to experi 
 ence the powerful effects of this pestilential climate. Two of their peo- 
 ple fell dangerously ill of malignant putrid fevers ; which, however, were 
 prevented from spreading, by putting the patients apart from the rest, in 
 the most airy berths. Many were attacked with teazing coughs ; others 
 complained of violent pains in the head ; and even the healthiest among 
 them felt a sensation of suffocating heat, attended by an insufferable lan- 
 gour and a total loss of appetite. 
 
 In the evening of the 10th of April, the Gunner's Quoin bore north 
 by east, and False Cape east-north-east ; but the wind being at south- 
 west, and variable, prevented their getting into False Bay till the evening 
 of the 12th, when they dropped anchor abreast of Simon's Bay, Cape 
 of Good Hope. 
 
 On the 12th of June passed the equator, for the fourth time during this 
 25 
 
290 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 voyage, m longitude 26 degrees 16 minutes west. On the 12th of Aa- 
 gust made the western coast of Ireland^ after a fruitless attempt to get 
 into Port Galway. On the 22d of August, at eleven in the morning, 
 both ships came to an anchor at Stromness ; and on the 4th day of Oc- 
 tober they arrived safe at the Noro, after an absence of four years, two 
 months, and twenty-two days. 
 
 CAPTAINS PORTLOCK AND DIXON.— 1785-88. 
 
 This voyage was undertaken for the purposes of commerce ; principally, 
 indeed, for the fur trade, on the north-west coast of America, which had 
 been strongly recommended by Captains Cook and King in their last 
 voyage. Two vessels were fitted out for this purpose, the King George 
 and Queen Charlotte, by a society of merchants and others, the former 
 commanded by Nathaniel Portlock, the latter by George Dkon, both of 
 whom had been with Captain Cook ; the King George having sixty men, 
 the Queen Charlotte thirty. 
 
 September 20th, they quitted St. Helens, and, proceeding to Guernsey, 
 left it on the 25th. October 16th, saw the Canary Islands, and on the 24th 
 the Cape de Verde group, anchoring for a short time in Port Praya Bay, 
 in St. Jago. Proceeding south, they anchored in Port Egmont, Falkland 
 Islands, January 5th, 1786, where, taking in water, they made sail for 
 States Bay, in Terra del Fuego, and remained some time, no refresh- 
 ments being procurable for the crews at either place, except water. Ha- 
 ving made a good offing from Cape Horn, they had tolerable weather ; 
 and continuing their route without touching at any place, or meeting with 
 anything worthy of notice, dropped anchor the 26th of May, in Karakakooa 
 Bay, in Owyhee, Sandwich Islands. 
 
 The natives crowded them very much, bartering a variety of articles ; 
 out were, nevertheless, extremely troublesome ; and, from fires being ol^ 
 served at night in all parts of the island, it was judged they were hostilely 
 inclined, this being preparatory to prayers to their deities for success in 
 war. It was also the general opinion, that it would be impossible to 
 water the vessels without a strong guard, which they could not well 
 spare, and which it was clear would bring on endless quarrels ; while the 
 people were probably jealous that these vessels were come to revenge 
 the death of Captain Cook. An inferior chief, who came off among the 
 crowds of natives, said that old Terreooboo, the king, was dead, and 
 that Maiha-Maiha was his successor. Next day they stood out of the 
 bay, lying-to three leagues off, to carry on trade for hogs, plantains, taro, 
 &c., &c., which proved so serviceable that the sick, of whom there were 
 several, began rapidly to recover. Several of the natives being ques- 
 tioned, said, that their principal chiefs were absent, making war with a 
 neighbouring island, which was one reason of their being unwilling to 
 admit strangers on shore at their island. 
 
 June 1st, anchored in a bay in Woahoo, another of the islands, and 
 were received very civilly by the inhabitants ; but refreshments were 
 scarce, and watering so difficult, that they were obliged to employ the 
 natives, giving nails and other trifling articles in payment, according to 
 the quantity supplied by each canoe. They now stood for another of 
 the islandsi named Oneehow ; and on the 8th anchored in Yam Bay, 
 ■ where supplies of fruit, vegetables, and pigs, were willingly afforded by 
 the principal chief, Abbenooc, who seemed strongly their friend, frora 
 
^RTLOCK AND DIXOJ^. 291 
 
 recollecting Captain Portlock along with Cook. He also sent to Atooi 
 for farther supplies, when several large double canoes were sent by the 
 king or chief as presents, which were duly acknowledged by returning 
 others to him as well as to their friend Abbenooc, who exerted himself 
 for their interest ; and from whom they took leave, with regret, on the 
 13th, standing for the coast of America. 
 
 July 10th, made the entrance of Cook's River ; and, while looking for 
 good anchorage, were astonished by the report of a great gun ; soon 
 afterward a party of Russians came on board, attended by some In- 
 dians ; but none understanding the language of either, no satisfactory 
 information could be gained from them. The country here is exceeding- 
 ly mountainous, and the more distant hills covered with snow ; those 
 sloping down nearest the shore are covered with pines, birch, and other 
 trees and shrubs ; it was, however, cold, damp, and disagreeable, the 
 ground barren, and the aspect of the whole extremely dreary. Most of 
 the natives had fled from their huts, alarmed, perhaps, by the Russians. 
 Several bears were seen, but none near enough to fire at. Two veins 
 of kennel-coal were found, which burnt very well, and the place was, there- 
 fore, called Coal Harbour. Weighing anchor from this place, they pro- 
 ceeded only a little way and brought up again, when first a single canoe 
 and afterward several others, with many natives, came off to dispose of 
 a few sea otter-skins and other furs, with dried salmon and roots, being 
 most of the refreshments their country affords. They bahaved in a 
 friendly manner, except in a few thefts of iron articles, which, being of 
 no material value, were not taken much notice of. An elderly chief, 
 paying Captain Dixon a visit, informed him that they had a battle with 
 the Russians, in which the latter were worsted, and added, that, from 
 'the difference of dress, he knew they were of a different nation. Another 
 attempted to persuade them to make war against them ; but this was 
 evaded on the part of the English by the best excuses they could make. 
 
 Quitting this place, they tried for some time to get into Prince Wil- 
 liam's Sound ; but, by a series of unfavourable winds, failed in this pursuit. 
 September 23d, having laboured in vain to fiad a harbour for their pur- 
 poses, and not being nble to get into King George's Sound, or any other 
 they knew, by bad weather and a variety of dangerous shoals and small 
 islands, they at length stood away for the Sandwich Islands to pass the 
 winter, and return in the spring. November 14th, saw the summit of 
 the high mountain in Owyhee covered with snow, and employed two or 
 three following days in coasting it, the natives bringing off a variety of 
 articles to barter for iron and trinkets. The first mate of the King 
 George reporting, that a bay they intended to anchor in did not admit of 
 good anchorage, this design was dropped. During the time they lay-to, 
 hogs, fowls, wild geese, bread fruit, plantains, and several other things 
 were procured in considerable quantities ; the natives dealing pretty fairly, 
 but committing a variety of thefts, even before their faces, with a de.^- 
 terity almost inimitable. For several days they continued lying-to off 
 the Islands of Movvee and Morotoi, procuring refreshments and receiving 
 visits till the 30th, when both ships bore away for King George's Bay, 
 in Whoaboo, where they anchored in safety, after experrencing a variety 
 of winds from all points of the compass. 
 
 Here they found everything tabooed, or forbidden, so that it became 
 necessary to court the king's favour ; for which purpose a present was sent* 
 to him, and another to a priest, their acquaintance on the former occasion, 
 v/lio paid them a visit, handing up a pig and plantaio, which in ihesa 
 
292 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 islands are signs of friendship. Tiiis was soon followed by a visit fronj 
 Tahecterre, the king, fcrllowed by all the chiefs, who took off the taboo. 
 The priest was rcmarliable for drinking large quantities of the ava, or yava- 
 juice, for which he had two men in constant attendance chewing the 
 root, which, with their spittle, forms this singular and (to us) nauseous 
 beverage. The yava is a root resembling liquorice in shape and colour. 
 None but the chiefs and priests have permission to use it, and these are 
 never at the trouble of chewing it themselves ; but, as above observed, 
 employ servants ; these begin with chevving a sufficient quantity, and 
 when well masticated, it is put into a wooden bowl kept for the purpose, 
 to which a small quantity of water is added ; the whole is then strained 
 through a cloth, and, like wine in Europe, it thus forms not merely the drink, 
 but the delight of all parlies, feasts, rejoicings, and, in short, every public 
 asse:nblage of the leading people. Its effects, hovvever, are very perni- 
 cious ; it is partly intoxicating, or rather stupifying ; and, by its constant 
 use, the old priest was exceedingly debilitated, and his body covered by a 
 white scurf, resembling the leprosy, which is a common symptom through- 
 out the South Sea islands of its frequent use. 
 
 The taboo was again put on without any explanation being given, though 
 several canoes nevertheless came off, but without any women, as had 
 been formerly the case. Afterward it was understood that one of them 
 had been detected in the King George eating pork, which being a hei- 
 nous offence, she was taken as soon as she came on shore, and offered a 
 sacrifice to the gods : human sacrifices, it appears, are here, as in most 
 of the South Sea islands, frequently presented, and it is unquestionably 
 the most inhuman and barbarous custom among them. 
 
 December 19th, weighed, and two days afterward anchored between 
 Atooi and Wymea, where, after paying and receiving some visits, their ' 
 former friend, Abbenooe, came on board with two canoes loaded with 
 provisions, and remained for two or three days, seemingly very well pleased 
 with his new abode. The king also made his appearance ; he was stout 
 and well made, about forty-five years of age, and possessed of more un- 
 derstanding and good nature than any of his subjects. His behaviour to 
 the English displayed much friendship and disinterestedness. Next day 
 he came again, attended by his uncle, a chief of great consequence, named 
 Neeheow-hooa, the greatest warrior of the islands, and crippled with 
 wounds, having lost an eye and likely to lose the other. The surgeon 
 dressed his wounds, and gave him instructions how to proceed in future. 
 
 January 5th, caught a shark in the King George, thirteeri and a half 
 foet long, eight and a half broad, and six feet in the liver ; forty-eight 
 young ones were in her, about eight inches each in length ; two whole 
 turtles of sixty pounds each ; several small pigs, and a quantity of bones ; 
 80 that the numbers and the voracity of this fish may be conceived. 
 Next day tire king paid another visit, bringing his eldest son, a fine boy, 
 about twelve years old, named Taaevee. This was meant as a farewell 
 visit, his majesty being about to quit the island for a short time, leaving 
 orders, however, with Abbenooe, to let his friends, the English, be well 
 supplied with all the island afforded during his absence. His uncle, the 
 warrior, also accompanied him, who, in gratitude for the assistance render- 
 ed by the surgeon, presented him a double canoe filled with hogs, for 
 which the veteran persisted in refusing any recompense. From this time 
 to the 10th they were employed in purchasing wood, water, provisions, 
 curiosities, and everything else they wanted ; and now, quitting the 
 ancho/age, proceeded to Yam Bay, in Oaeehow, where, after making a 
 
PORTLOCK AND DIXON. 293 
 
 few excursions, they departed once more for Wymea Bay, Atooi. Here 
 two chiefs displayed their dexterity, at Captain Portlock's request, in the 
 use of their spears, all who were spectators feeling astonishment and pain 
 at the dangers they incurred in this amusement. 
 
 The island is tolerably level, the soil mostly a light red earth, which, 
 if cultivated properly, might be very productive. Atappa is a tolerably 
 large village, situated behind a long row of cocoa nut trees, which affords 
 the inhabitants ample shelter from the heat of the sun ; in the swampy 
 ground, of which there is a good deal, the sugar-cane and taso is culti- 
 vated. Their burying-place is a high wooden pile, of a quadrangular 
 form, situated on the side of a hill. The river is not quite a hundred 
 yards over in the widest part, gliding along in a clear smooth stream, 
 except in rainy weather, when the body of water is more tumultuous 
 and muddy. 
 
 On the 3d of March weighed, and made sail for the coast of America, 
 and on the 24th of April saw Montager Island, coming to anchor in the 
 harbour, where there is sufficient shelter from the prevailing winds. la 
 the evening several canoes come otf, with one or two merr in each, who 
 were highly delighted with the barking of some dogs on board, beginning 
 to whistle, and calling out Towzer ! Towzer ! here ! here ! which occa- 
 sioned considerable surprise to their visiters, who could not account for 
 those few words of English and this manner of addressing these animals. 
 Boats were employed in wooding and watering, others in picking up 
 shell-fish or shooting wild ducks and geese, of which there were a few. 
 The country was covered with snow ; the Russians, from several traces 
 in the woods, had evidently been here. The weather continued very 
 variable, several unsuccessful attempts being made to get into Prince 
 William's Sound ; and only a single straggling inhabitant being seen now 
 and then, so that there was no opportunity to trade. 
 
 Captain Dixon now made an excursion in his boats up the sound ; and 
 receiving some hints from the natives of a vessel being there, continued 
 his search for several days, and at length got on board a vessel called the 
 Nootka, from Bengal, commanded by Mr. Meares, which had wintered 
 in Snug-corner Cove. The scurvy had made dreadful havoc among 
 them, nearly all the officers and many of the crew having died of this 
 frightful disorder, so that at length the captain was the only person on 
 board able to walk the deck. Along with his first mate he soon after- 
 ward visited the ships, met with a hearty reception, and received such 
 assistance as ho wanted and as the others could afford. From him they 
 learned that few or no furs could be procured here ; that several vessels 
 from India had been already on this coast for the purposes of trade ; and 
 that two or three were expected next month in the same pursuit, which 
 immediately determined our voyagers to separate and push for different 
 parts of the coast, in order to be before their expected rivals ; the Queen 
 Charlotte to proceed to King George's Sound, and Messrs. Hayward and 
 Hill to Cook's River, in the King George's long-boat, the latter to remain 
 where she was for the present. 
 
 On the 13th May several canoes visited them, in one of which was a 
 chief of great consequence, named Sheenaawa, whose party, like most 
 others, were determined thieves, exerting their ingenuity and tricks for 
 this purpose in an extraordinary degree. They danced, sung, laughed, 
 and diverted the attention of the seamen in every possible way, while 
 slyly their hands were seizing everything on the decks, so that literally 
 they were smiling in their faces and robbing them at the same time. In 
 
 25* 
 
294 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the meantime the Queen Charlotte and the long-boat sailed, while the 
 King George shifted to Hinchinbroke Cove. The appearance of the 
 land here was very unpromising, being covered though at this season, 
 with deep snow ; a few natives made their appearance with skins, who 
 told them that, as the summer advanced, some salmon would be found in 
 the fresh water rivulets, of which there are several in the vicinity. Some 
 of the boats were sent out to trade, which were tolerably successful ; 
 but they also suffered from continual thefts, which were sometimes ac- 
 companied by menaces, if they attempted to resist the plunderers. 
 
 June 9th, the Nootka left her former anchorage, where she had been 
 Irozen in, and came close to the King George, when the crew of the 
 latter were partly employed in rendering her assistance. Two days 
 afterward ihe long-boat returned from Cook's River with a very good 
 cargo, and was again sent off with orders to return by the 20th of July. 
 On the 19Lh the Nootka sailed. Next day the surgeon took the invalids 
 on shore for an excursion, who, by the use of spruce-beer, which they 
 now brewed in abundance, were rapidly recovering. In the evening 
 observed twa Indian boats and several canoes, in which were about 
 twenty-five natives, who came alongside next morning. Their chief, 
 named Taatucktellingnuke, was paralytic on one side, had a long beard, 
 and seemed about sixty years of age ; his country was called Cheenee- 
 cock, situated toward the south-west part of the sound. He appeared 
 very friendly, made Portlock a present of a skin and some salmon, and 
 would not be satisfied without taking two of the seamen with him for 
 the night, leaving three of his own people as hostages ; these men were 
 treated most kindly by the old chief, and were conducted on board again 
 in due time, satisfied with their host. 
 
 July I Ith, hauled the seine frequently, when not less than 2000 salmon 
 were caught at each haul ; and so great were their numbers, that ships 
 prepared for the purpose might have obtained any quantity they wished. 
 The long-boat relumed on the 21st, though without so much success as 
 formerly. On the 2Gth sailed from this place. The natives in general 
 are short iu stature, with flat faces and noses, ill-formed legs, but good 
 teeth and eyes ; they wear their hair, which is black and straight, very 
 long, but cut it short on the death«of a relation, this seeming their only 
 method of mourning. The men and women differ little in appearance ; 
 both are extremely fond of ornaments, yet are very filthy in person ; and it 
 is said will, when pressed for food, devour the vermin out of their heads. 
 They are attentive to their women, but jealous of them. Their thiev- 
 ing tiabits seem fixed, the most dexterous being most in esteem, and re- 
 ceiving the greatest applause for the exertion of his talents ; he is also 
 distinguished by a fantastical dress, which, while it excites the notice of 
 the spectators, gives the owner additional opportunities of exerting his 
 fingers at their expense. They live upon whatever animals chance 
 throws in the way, in addition to fish ; the latter are dried in the sun, 
 and when eaten fresh are roasted before a fire. Their winter habitations 
 seem but ill-contrived, being from four to six feet high, ten feet long, 
 eight broad, and built with thick plank; in these confined huts great num- 
 bers sometimes live together ; in summer they wander to and fro as incli- 
 nation or necessity dictates, taking shelter u»der temporary structures ol 
 branches, assisted by their canoes. 
 
 By the 3d of August had m.ade little j^rogress, from the shifting of the 
 wind. On the 6th were followed by a large Indian boat with twelve per- 
 sons on board, whose language and manners were very different from 
 
PORTLOCK AND DIXON. , 295 
 
 those of the people of Prince William's Sound ; a few skins were pro- 
 cured of them, but not dressed or stretched like those of the sound. At 
 the approach of evening they wished to take one of the seamen with 
 them on shore for the night, who accordingly went, two hostages being 
 left behind for his safety; next day they returned with him. Their 
 residence, it seems, was near the foot of a hill, beside a rivulet of fresh 
 water ; their house was only a temporary habitation, and they possessed 
 scarcely anything to trade with. In the meantime the long-boat was 
 despatched to seek for furs near Cape Edgecombe. Joseph Woodcock, 
 one of the seamen, again slept on shore with the natives, in a bay near 
 the ship. On the 8ih two large boats visited them, with twenty-five men, 
 women, and children on board, who, very different from their other 
 visiters, seemed very honest, and who were invited to dinner in the cabin, 
 when they relished the English cookery so well, that the dishes were 
 quickly obliged to be replenished. These departed in the evening well 
 pleased with their entertainment, promising to return with the means of 
 trading with their new friends. 
 
 On the nth a new tribe visited them from the eastward, with about 
 the same number of persons as the last ; four days after the long-boat 
 returned, having had pretty good success, notwithstanding some acts of 
 hostility which they had been compelled to retahate upon the Indians. 
 Another party, from the north-west, were extremely addicted to thieving ; 
 nothing could escape them ; and, when detected, were very impudent, 
 and often threatened those they robbed. The men were of the size of 
 Europeans, of a fierce and savage aspect, using daggers and long spears, 
 easily provoked and ready to indulge their anger. The women at this 
 anchorage, which was named Portlock's Harbour, disfigure themselves 
 by making an incision in the upper lip, in which they wear a piece of 
 wood of an oval form, larger according to their age, so that some were 
 of the size of a tea-saucer ; the weight of this encumbrance drags the 
 lip down, exposing the whole of the lower teeth, which makes a most 
 unsightly appearance, and must also be a real inconvenience. 
 
 August 22d, weighed and made sail from this coast, having done as 
 much as it seemed likely they could do in the way of trade. September 
 the 28th, made Owyhee, the principal of the Sandwich group, when 
 several canoes came off, with whom a brisk trade for hogs and other 
 refreshments was carried on. At Atooi they found the Nootka and 
 Queen Charlotte had been there, and left letters for the King George. 
 After procuring what necessaries they wanted. Captain Portlock directed 
 his course for China with his cargo of furs ; on the 4ih of November saw 
 Say pan and Tinian, two of the Ladrone Islands ; and on the 21st anchored 
 in Macao Roads, where Captain Dixon was found, whose transadkons 
 shall now be noticed. 
 
 After separating the Queen Charlotte coasted it for some time, till, 
 seeing an appearance of an inlet, a boat was despatched, which found an 
 excellent harbour, where she soon after anchored. Several canoes came 
 off, from whom some skins were procured, but by no means so many as 
 they had at first reason to expect. The number of inhabitants was about 
 seventy ; the harbour, which is good, was named Port Mulgrave, and is 
 situated in 59 degrees 32 minutes north latitude, and 140 degrees west 
 longitude. The language of these people is quite different from that of 
 Prince William's Sound, or Cook's River, being extremely uncouth and 
 difficult to pronounce. The mode in which they dispose of their dead is 
 remarkable ; the head is separated from the body, and both are v?rapped 
 
296 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 in furs, the former being put into a box, the latter into an oblong chest, 
 which are afterward preserved and disposed of in a fanciful way. 
 
 June 4th, quitted this place, and kept beating to the southward ; a har- 
 bour was perceived at a distance, which, upon examination by the boats, 
 was found to extend to a considerable distance, with a number of coves 
 here and there, very well calculated for anchorage ; it was named Norfolk 
 Sound. The people were at first civil and well-behaved ; but soon be- 
 came troublesome and thievish, like almost all their brethren on this 
 coast. Their numbers exceed 450, including women and children ; in 
 appearance they resemble the people of Port Mulgrave, their faces being 
 similarly painted, and the lips of the women distorted in the same man- 
 ner. One of the chiefs was in possession of a white shirt, on which he 
 set a great value ; upon examination, it proved to be of Spanish make, 
 two ships of that nation having been on this coast in 1775. Trade here 
 was not very brisk. A creek of considerable extent received the name 
 of Port Banks, in honour of Sir Joseph ; they continued standing to and 
 fro with various success in trade. 
 
 July 1st, saw an island, and were soon surrounded by Indians, who, 
 after gratifying their curiosity in examining the vessel, began to trade, 
 and soon parted with all their skins. Several fresh tribes visited them 
 almost daily, who, delighted with European articles of barter, were content 
 to leave their furs behind in exchange. The residence of one was 
 strongly fortified, resembling a hippah, or fortified place, in New Zealand ; 
 and, from some circumstances which transpired, JJixon was tempted also 
 to believe they were also, like the New Zealanders, cannibals. Our 
 traders now found it better to keep shifting to and fro than to remain in 
 one place. Proceeding to the eastward, eleven canoes came alongside 
 on the 24th with 180 persons ; but curiosity was the prevailing motive, 
 as they had nothing to sell ; and five days after, no less than 300 men, 
 women, and children, in eighteen canoes, came oflf to indulge their curi- 
 osity ; a number that, on this coast, is rarely found in one community. 
 Their chief had the most savage aspect of any yet seen, his whole appea- 
 rance sufficiently marking him as the leader of a tribe of cannibals. His 
 stature was above the common size, his body spare and thin, and, though 
 seemingly lank and emaciated, his step was bold and firm, his limbs strong 
 and muscular ; his eyes, which were large and goggling, seemed ready 
 to start from their sockets ; his forehead deeply wrinkled, as well by aga 
 as an habitual frown, which, joined to a long visage, hollow cheeks, high 
 cheek-bones, and natural ferocity of temper, rendered him a most formi- 
 dable figure. He however behaved very well to the English, and, by 
 means of a present or two, became their fast friend. 
 
 August 1st, thought now of joining ihe King George in the sound of 
 that name ; and, making sail for that purpose, fell in, on the 8th, with the 
 Prince of Wales and Princess Royal, two vessels fitted out by the own- 
 ers of the King George and Queen Charlotte, and hearing from them 
 that the former vessel was not in the sound. Captain Dixon made sail for 
 the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 This extensive portion of America exhibits on the whole the appea- 
 rance of a large continued forest, covered with pines of different species, 
 intermixed with alder, birch, hazel, and in the valleys with wild goose- 
 berry, currant, and raspberry trees ; besides a vast quantity of low brush- 
 wood. The soil on the hills is a compound of rotten moss and decayed 
 trees, which, being carried down with the snows into the valleys, and 
 mixing there with a light sand, forms a soil in which most English vege- 
 
PORTLOCK AND DIXON. 297 
 
 tables might grow, if assisted a little by art or attention. The numoer 
 of inhabitants, from Cook's River to King George's Sound, may be about 
 10,000 ; but the country must be very thinly peopled, to which their con- 
 tinual wars necessarily tend. 
 
 September 2d, made Owyhee, and, after procuring refreshments, stood 
 on for Whahoo, being visited the next day by Abbenooe and the king, by 
 whose commands they received abundant supplies of wood, v/ater, and 
 provisions, of which they were in extreme want, several of the crew 
 being nearly dead with the scurvy. Atooi was their next destination, 
 where the chiefs inquired particularly after their friend Po-pote, (Captain 
 Portlock,) and were desirous of contributing all in their power to the 
 assistance of the ship, every one supplying ihe captain with a liberahty 
 as unbounded as it was unexpected, but which did not go unrewarded ; 
 saws, hatchets, nails, and other iron instruments being given to the men, 
 and buttons, beads, and a variety of ornaments to the women. 
 
 September 18th, made sail for China, and anchored in Macao Roads the 
 9th of November, where being joined, as already noticed, by the King 
 George, their meeting was extremely agreeable. Captain Portlock was 
 very much surprised in Canton with his old friend Tiaana, from the 
 Sandwich Islands, who was no less pleased at seeing him, embracing the 
 captain in the most cordial and affectionate manner. As soon as his 
 transports subsided, he asked several questions concerning the people of 
 the islands, and said that he had accompanied Captain Meares hither, who 
 placed him under the immediate care of Mr. Ross, his first mate, to whom 
 he was much attached. 
 
 During his slay, Tiaana was introduced to every place worthy of notice : 
 he was usually dressed in a cloak and fine feathered cap, and, to show that 
 he was a person of consequence, carried a spear in his hand. Afterward, 
 at the persuasion of Mr. Ross, he wore a light satin waistcoat and a pair 
 of trousers. He frequently attended places of public worship, behaving 
 with the greatest decorum, and joining the congregation in the ceremonies 
 of kneeling or standing, as if he had been all his life regularly accustomed 
 to them. Some of the customs of the Chinese displeased him exceed- 
 ingly, and, during the voyage, was nearly throwing the pilot overboard for 
 some real or imaginary offence ; he was, however, of a kind disposition, 
 displaying frequent instances of humanity as well as generosity. Being 
 once at an entertainment, given by one of the captams at Macao, his com- 
 passion was strongly excited after dinner by seeing a number of poor 
 people, in Sampans, crowding round the vessel and asking alms ; he soli- 
 cited his host's permission to give them some food, remarking it was a 
 great shame to let poor people want victuals, and that in his country there 
 were no beggars. In compliance with his importunities, the broken meat 
 was collected under his care, and he distributed it in the most equal and 
 impartial manner. Tiaana was six feet two inches high, exceedingly 
 well made, but inclined to corpulency ; he had a pleasing animated 
 countenance, fine eyes, and otherwise expressive as well as agreeable 
 features. He was universally liked ; and, previous to his departure for 
 Atooi, the gentlemen at Canton furnished him with bulls, cows, sheep, 
 goats, rabbits, turkeys, &c., <fec,, besides all kinds of seeds which could be 
 useful in his island, with directions how to rear and propagate them. 
 The best skins of their cargo were disposed of to the East India com- 
 pany for 50,000 dollars, while the inferior ones were sold to the Chinese, 
 both vessels receiving in return cargoes of tea. February 6th, 1783, 
 weighed and made sail down the river, quitting Macao finally a day or 
 
298 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 two afterward. On the 20th saw the Island of Pulo Sapata, four leagues 
 distant, and on the 25th the Islands of Aramba ; three days afterward 
 Mr. Lauder, surgeon of the Queen Charlotte, died, having been ill for some 
 time, and attended by his brother surgeon, M*. Hoggan, of the King 
 George. On the 30th of March the ships agreed to separate, and make 
 the best of their way to St. Helena, where the King George arrived the 
 13th of June, and the Queen Charlotte on the 18th. The former at length 
 reached England, without any occurrence worthy of remark, on the 22d 
 of August ; and the latter the 17th of September. Nor was the voyage 
 unfortunate ; for though no great gain was made, yet nothing was lost, 
 which, in a new commercial speculation, is not an uncommon occurrence. 
 
 MONSIEUR DE LA PEROUSE.— 1785-88. 
 
 Francs becoming jealous of the renown acquired by the English cir- 
 cumnavigators, determined to send out an expedition which, in its scien- 
 tific equipments, should vie with them in every respect. Two fh^ps were 
 appointed to this service, the Boassole and Astrolabe, the former com- 
 manded by La Perouse, the latter by M. de Langle, both captains in the 
 navy, and men of considerable attainments, besides being assisted by men 
 of science and artists. The voyage is interesting as far as it goes ; but, 
 unfortunately, the ships, after quitting Botany Bay, in 17S8, have never 
 since been heard of, to the regret of all lovers of science and humanity, 
 on account, not only of the acquirements, but amiable character of the 
 commander. 
 
 On the 1st of August, 1785, they quitted Brest, and on the 13th 
 reached Madeiia; stopping here three days, they saw TenerifFe on the 
 19th, and on the 16th of October the Island of Trinidada, barren, rocky, 
 and with a violent surf breaking on the shores, where refreshments notbein^ 
 obtainable, the commander steered for St. Catherine's, on the Brazil coast. 
 
 This island is extremely fertile, producing all sorts of fruit, vegetables, 
 and corn, almost spontaneously. It is covered with trees of everlasting 
 green, but they are so curiously interwoven with plants and briars, that 
 it is impossible to pass through the forests without opening a path with a 
 hatchet ; to add to the difficulty, danger is also to be apprehended from 
 snakes, whose bite is mortal. The habitations are bordering on the sea. 
 The woods are delightfully fragrant, occasioned by the orange trees, and 
 other odoriferous plants and shrubs, which form a part of them. But 
 amid all these advantages, the country is extremely poor, and totally des- 
 titute of manufactured commodities ; the peasants are ragged, and almost 
 naked. The soil, which is well calculated for the cultivation of sugar, 
 remains untilled, as they are too poor to purchase slaves for that necessary- 
 purpose. The whale-fishery is indeed successful, but it belongs to the 
 crown, and is farmed by a company at Lisbon, which has three large 
 establishments on the coast. They kill about 400 whales annually, the 
 produce of which is sent to Lisbon by the way of Rio Janeiro. 
 
 On the I4ih of January the navigators struck ground on the coast of 
 Patagonia. On the 25th La Perouse took bearings a league to the south- 
 ward of Cape San Diego, forming the west point of the Straits of Le Maire. 
 At three he entered the straits, and saw some breakers, which extended 
 about a mile ; he also perceived others much farther in the offing, which 
 induced him to steer to the south-east to avoid them. On the 9th of 
 February he was abreast of the Straits of Magellan. Examining the 
 
M. DE LA PEROtrSE. 299 
 
 quantity of provisions he had on board, La Perouse discovered he had 
 very little flour and bread left in store ; having been obliged to leave a 
 hundred barrels at Brest, The worms had also taken possession of the 
 biscuits, and consumed or rendered useless a fifth part of them. Under 
 these circumstances, La Perouse preferred Conception to the Island of 
 Juan Fernandez. 
 
 The Bay of Conception, in Chili, is a most excellent harbour ; the water 
 is smooth, and almost without any current, though the tide rises six feet 
 three inches. The new city of Conception, after the destruction of the 
 old one by an earthquake, in 1751, was not resolved on till 1763. The 
 new town, which contains about 10,000 inhabitants, is the residence of 
 the bishop, and of the major-general, who governs in the military depart- 
 ment. This colony makes but little progress in prosperity or population ; 
 the influence of the government counteracts that of the climate. The 
 productions of this kingdom, under proper management, would suffice for 
 the food and manufactures of half Europe, and yet the country is destitute 
 of commerce. A few small vessels indeed arrived here yearly from Lima, 
 with tobacco, sugar, and some articles of European manufacture, which 
 the natives can only purchase at second or third hand ; heavy duties 
 having been imposed upon them first at Cadiz, then at Lima, and after- 
 ward on their entering Chili. They can only give in exchange wheat, 
 (which is of little value,) hides, tallow, and a few planks ; so that the ba- 
 lance of trade is always against Chili. The women wear a kind of plaited 
 petticoat, formed of antique gold and silver stuffs. These petticoats, 
 however, are never summoned upon duty but on gala-days, and may be 
 entailed in a family, descending, in regular gradation, from the grand- 
 mother to the granddaughter. A small number of females, however, are 
 thus gorgeously habited ; the majority have barely sufficient to conceal 
 their nakedness. 
 
 At daybreak, on the 15th of-March, La Perouse made the signal to 
 prepare to sail. On the 17th, about noon, a light breeze sprung up, with 
 which he got under way. On the 8th of April, about noon, they saw 
 Easter Island. The Indians were unarmed, except a few who had a kind 
 of slight wooden club. Some of them assumed an apparent superiority 
 over the others, which induced La Perouse to consider the former as 
 chiefs, but he soon discovered that these selected persons were the most 
 notorious offenders. Having but a few hours to remain upon the island, 
 and wishing to employ his time to the best advantage, La Perouse left 
 the care of the tent, and other particulars, to his first lieutenant, M. 
 D'Escures. A division was then made of the persons engaged in the 
 adventure ; one part, under the command of M. De Langle, was to pene- 
 trate into the interior of the island to encourage and promote vegetation, 
 by disseminating seeds, &c., in a proper soil ; and the other division 
 mdertook to visit the monuments, plantations, and habitations, within 
 .he compass of a league of the establishment. The largest of the rude 
 •justs upon one of the terraces is fourteen feet six inches in height, and 
 ihe breadth and other particulars appeared to be proportionate. 
 
 A small part of this island is under cultivation. It is, however, generally 
 agreed that three days' labour of an Indian will procure him subsistence for a 
 year. From the ease with which the necessaries of life are procured. La Pe- 
 rouse supposed the productions of the earth were in common. He was con- 
 vinced, indeed, that the houses were common, at least to a whole village or 
 district. One of these habitations near his tent was three hundred and ten 
 feet ia length, ten feet in breadth, and ten feet in height toward the 
 
300 VOYAGIS ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 middle. The whole erection is capable of containing 200 people. It 
 forms a kind of hamlet of itself, but is totally unfurnished. Two or three 
 small houses appear at a little distance from it. La Perouse does not 
 pretend to decide whether the women are common to a whole district, 
 and the children to the republic : but he asserts that no Indian seemed 
 to exercise the authority of a husband over any one of the females. If 
 they are private property, it is a kind of which the possessors are very liberal. 
 
 Returning about nooi to the tent, La Perouse found almost every man 
 without either hat or handkerchief ; so much had forbearance encouraged 
 the audacity of the thieves, that he also experienced a similar depredation. 
 An Indian, who had assisted him in descending from a terrace, rewarded 
 himself for his trouble by taking away his hat. Some of them had dived 
 under water, cut the small cable of the Astrolabe's boat, and taken away 
 her grapnel. A sort of chief, to whom M. De Langle made a present of 
 a male and female goat, received the animals with one hand, and robbed 
 him of his handkerchief with the other. 
 
 On the 28th of May they saw the mountains of Owyhee, covered 
 with snow, and afterward those of Mowee, which are less elevated. About 
 150 canoes were seen putting off from the shore, laden with fruit and hogs, 
 ■which the Indians proposed to exchange for pieces of iron of the French 
 navigators. Most of them came on board of one or the other of the vessels, 
 but they proceeded so fast through the water that they filled alongside. 
 The Indians were obliged to quit the ropes thrown them, and, leaping into 
 the sea, swam after their hogs — when, taking them in their arms, they 
 emptied their canoes of the water, and resumed their seat. 
 
 After having visited a village, M. De Langle gave orders that six sol- 
 diers, with a sergeant, should accompany him : the others were left upon 
 the beach, under the command of M. de Pierrevert, the lieutenant ; to 
 them was committed the protection of the ship's boats, from which not a 
 single sailor had landed. The party re-embarked at eleven o'clock in 
 very good order, and arrived on board about.noon, where M. de Clonard 
 had received a visit from a chief, of whom he had purchased a cloak, and 
 a helmet adorned with red feathers ; he had also purchased a hundred 
 hogs, a quantity of potatoes and bananas, plenty of stuffs, mats, and 
 various other articles. On their arrival on board, the two frigates drag- 
 ged their anchors ; it blew fresh from the south-east, and they were driving 
 down upon the Island of Morokinne, which was however at a sufficient 
 distance to give them time to hoist in their boats. La Perouse made the 
 signal for weighing, but before they could purchase the anchor, he was 
 obliged to make sail, and drag it till he had passed Morokinne, to hinder 
 )iim from .driving past the channel. 
 
 A fair wind a<:companied the navigators on their departure from the 
 Sandwich Islands. Whales and wild geese convinced them that they 
 were approaching land. Early in the morning of the 23d they descried 
 it ; a sudden dispersion of the fog opened to them the view of a long cham 
 of mountains covered with snow. They distinguished Beering's Mount 
 St. Elias, on the north-west coast of America. 
 
 While the navigators were at the entrance of a bay, they were con- 
 tinually surrounded by the canoes of the Indians. In exchange for iron 
 they were offered fish and variety of skins, as well as sundry articles of 
 dress ; and the natives displayed much ability in their commercial dealings ; 
 but iron was more eagerly coveted than any other medium of barter. 
 They indeed consented to take some pewter pots and plates, but they 
 received them with indifference. Iron was their favourite metal ; a dag- 
 
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 301 
 
 get of it hung from the necks of many of them. The report of their 
 arrival having spread itself to the adjacent parts, several canoes arrived, 
 filled with otter-skins, which the natives bartered for knives, hatchets, 
 and bar-iron. The sea otter is supposed to be more common here than 
 in any part of America. The Astrolabe caught one, which probably had 
 escaped from the Indians, as it was severely wounded. It weighed seventy 
 pounds, and perhaps had attained its full growth. The sea otter is an 
 amphibious animal, remarkable for the beauty of its skin. The Indians of 
 Port Frangais call it skecter. Some naturalists have noticed it under the 
 denomination o( saricovicnne, but the description of that animal in Buftbn 
 has no affinity with this, which has no resemblance to the otter of Canada, 
 nor to that of Europe. 
 
 Having taken in as much wood and water as was required, the navi- 
 gators esteemed themselves the most fortunate of men, in having arrived 
 at such a distance from Europe without having a sick person among them, 
 or any one afflicted with the scurvy ; but a lamentable misfortune now 
 awaited them. At the entrance of this harbour perished twenty brave 
 seamen, in two boats, by the surf. 
 
 On the 30th of July, at four in the afternoon. La Perouse got under 
 way. This bay or harbour, to which he gave the name of Port des Fran- 
 <jais, is situated in 58 degrees 37 minutes north latitude, and 139 degrees 
 50 minutes west longitude. In different excursions, he says, he found 
 the high-watermark to be fifteen feet above the surface of the sea. The 
 climate of this coast is infinitely milder than that of Hudson's Bay, in the 
 same degree of latitude. Pines were seen of six feet diameter and one hun- 
 dred and forty feet in height. Vegetation is vigorous during three or four 
 months of the year. The men wear different small ornaments, pendant 
 from the ears and nose, scarify their arms and breasts, and file their teeth 
 close to their gums, using, for the last operation, a sand-stone formed into 
 a particular shape. They paint the face and body with soot, ochre, and 
 plumbago, mixed with train-oil, making themselves most horrid figures. 
 When completely dressed, their flowing hair is powdered, and plaited with 
 the down of sea birds ; but perhaps only the chiefs of certain distinguished 
 families are thus decorated. Their shoulders are covered with a skin, and 
 the rest of the body remains naked, except the head, on which is generally 
 worn a little straw-hat, plaited with great taste and ingenuity. Sometimes, 
 indeed, the head is decorated with two horned bonnets of eagles' feathers. 
 Their head-dresses are extremely various, the grand object in view being 
 only to render themselves terrible, that they may keep their enemies in 
 awe. Some Indians have skirts of otter-skins. A great chief wore a 
 shirt composed of a tanned skin of the elk, bordered by a fringe of beaks 
 of birds, which, when dancing, hnitated the noise of a bell ; a common 
 dress among the savages of Canada and other nations in the eastern parts 
 of America. The passion of these Indians for gaming is astonishing, and 
 they pursue it with great avidity. The sort of play to which they are 
 most devoted, is a certain game of chance : out of thirty pieces of wood, 
 each distinctly marked like the French dice, they hide seven ; each plays 
 in successign, and he who guesses nearest to the whole number marked 
 upon the seven is the winner of the stake, which is usually a hatchet or a 
 piece of iron. 
 
 At length, after a very long run, on the 1 1 th of September, at three in 
 the afternoon, the navigators got sight of Fort Monterey, and two three- 
 masted vessels which lay in the road. The commander of these two ships 
 having been informed, by the Viceroy of Mexico, of the probable arrival 
 
 28 
 
302 VOYAGES ROtJND THE WORLD. 
 
 of the tv/o French frigates, sent them pilots in the course of the night. 
 Loretto, the only presidency of Old California, is situated on the east coast 
 of this peninsula, and has a garrison of fifty-four troopers, who furnish 
 detachments to fifteen missions ; the duties of which are performed by 
 Dominician friars. About four thousand Indians, converted and residing 
 in these fifteen parishes, are the sole produce of the long labours of the 
 different religious orders which have succeeded each other. A small 
 navy was established by the Spanish government in this port, under the 
 orders of the Viceroy of Mexico, consisting of four corvettes of twelve 
 guns, and one goletta. They are destined to supply with necessaries the 
 presidencies of North California ; and they are sometimes despatched as 
 packet-boats to Manilla, when the orders of the court require the utmost 
 expedition. 
 
 The company were received with all possible poHteness and respect : 
 the president of the missions, in his sacerdotal vestment, with the holy 
 water in his hand, waited to receive them at the entrance of the church, 
 which was splendidly illuminated, as on their highest festivals . he then 
 conducted them to the foot of the high altar, where Tc Deum was sung 
 in thanksgivings for their arrival. Before they entered the church they 
 passed a range of Indians : the parish church, though covered with straw, 
 is neat, and decorated with paintings copied from Italian originals. A 
 picture of Hell is there represented, in which the imagination of Callot is 
 absolutely exceeded ; but the senses of new converts must be struck with 
 the most lively impressions. A representation of Paradise, placed opposite 
 to that of Hell, is supposed to produce less effect on them. The Indians, 
 as well as the missionaries, rise with the sun, and devote an hour to 
 prayers and mass, during which time a species of boiled food is prepared 
 for them : it consists of barley-meal, the grain of which has been roasted 
 previous to its being boiled. It is cooked in the centre of the square, in 
 three large kettles. This repast is called alole by the Indians, who con- 
 sider it as delicioBS ; it is destitute of salt and butter, and must con- 
 sequently be insipid. The women have little more to attend to than their 
 housewifery, their children, and the roasting and grinding of several grains ; 
 the latter operation is long and laborious, as they employ no other means 
 than that of crushing it in pieces with a cyhnder upon a stone. 
 
 The converted Indians preserve those ancient usages which are not 
 prohibited by their new religion ; the same cabins, games, and dresses. 
 The dress of the richest consists of an otter-skin cloak, to cover their 
 loins, and descend below the groin : the most indolent are satisfied with a 
 simple piece of linen cloth, furnished by the mission to conceal their 
 nakedness ; a cloak of rabbit-skin, tied under the chin, serves as a veil 
 for their shoulders ; the rest of the body remains absolutely naked, except 
 the head, which is sometimes ornamented with hats of straw, curiously 
 matted or plaited. The women have cloaks of deer-skin, tanned ; those 
 of the missions make a small bodice, with sleeves of the same material. 
 This, with a small apron of rushes, and a petticoat of stag-skin, which 
 descends to the middle of the leg, is the whole of their apparel. Girls 
 under the age of nine years have only a simple girdle, and boys are com- 
 pletely naked. 
 
 The Indians of the rancheries, or independent villages, are accustomed 
 to paint their bodies red and black when they are in m.ourning ; but the 
 missionaries have prohibited the former, though they tolerate the latter, 
 these people being singularly attached to their friends. The ties of family 
 are less regarded among them than those of friendship : the children show 
 
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 303 
 
 no filial respect to the father, having been obliged to quit his cabin as soon 
 as they were able to procure their own subsistence. 
 
 A Spanish commissary at Monterey, named M. Vmcent Vassadrey Vega, 
 brought orders to the governor to collect all the otter-skins of his missions 
 and presidencies, government having reserved to itself the exclusive com- 
 merce of them ; and M. Fages assured La Perouse that he could annually 
 furnish twenty thousand of them. The Spaniards were ignorant of the 
 importance of this valuable peltry till the publication of the voyages of 
 Captain Cook : that excellent man has navigated for the general benefit 
 of every nation ; his own enjoys only the glory of the enterprise, and that 
 of having given him birth. 
 
 New California, though extremely fertile, cannot boast of haying a single 
 settler ; a few soldiers, married to Indian women, who dwell in the forts, 
 or who are dispersed among the different missions, constituting the whole 
 Spanish nation in this district of America. The Franciscan missionaries 
 are principally Europeans ; they have a convent in Mexico. The viceroy 
 IS now the sole judge of all controversies in the different missions. Don 
 Bernardo Galves having united all the powers, Spain allows four hundred 
 piasters to each missionary, two of which are appropriated to a parish : 
 eupernumeraries receive no salary. 
 
 On the evening of the 22d everything was onboard, and leave had been 
 taken of the governor and missionaries. On the morning of the 24th they 
 sailed. On the 3d of November the frigates were surrounded with nod- 
 dies, terns, and man-of-war birds ; and on the 4th they made an island 
 which bore west. This small island is little more than a rock of about 
 600 toiscs in length. Not a tree is to be seen on it, but a great deal of 
 grass is visible on the top ; the rock is much disfigured by the excrement 
 of various birds ; the extremities of it are perpendicular like a wall, and 
 the sea broke around tt with such violence as to render it impossible to 
 land. La Perouse named it Isle Necker. About an hour past one 
 in the morning La Perouse saw breakers at two cables' length ahead of 
 the ship ; the sea being so smooth, the sound of them was hardly heard ; 
 the Astrolabe perceived them at the same time, though at a greater dis- 
 tance than the Boussole ; both frigates instantly hauled, with their heads 
 to the south-east. La Perouse gave orders for sounding ; they had nine 
 fathoms, roeky bottom : soon after ten and twelve fathoms, and in a 
 quarter of an hour got no ground with sixty fathoms. They just escaped 
 the most imminent danger to which navigators can be exposed. 
 
 The Island of Assumption, to which the Jesuits have attributed six 
 leagues of circumference, from the angles now taken, was reduced to half, 
 and the highest point is about two hundred toises above the level of iho 
 Bea. A more horrid place cannot be conceived. It was a perfect cone, 
 ns black as a coal, and very mortifying to behold, after having enjoyed, in 
 imagination, the cocoa nuts and turtles expected to be found in some one 
 Df the Marianne Islands. La Perouse did not mean to touch at the 
 Bashees, having before been often visited, and having nothing particularly 
 interesting. Having determnied the position, he continued his course 
 toward China ; and on the 1st of January, 1787, found bottom in sixty 
 Fathoms ; a number of fishing boats surrounded him the next day. On 
 ihe 2d of January our navigators made the White Rock. In the evening 
 ihey anchored to the northward of Ling ting Island, and the following 
 iay in Macao Road. Macao, situate at the mouth of the Tigris, is capable 
 *f receiving a sixty-four gun ship into its road, at the entrance of the 
 fypa ; and in its port, below the city, ships of 700 tons half laden. Tho 
 
304 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 entrance of this port is defended by a fortress consisting two batteries and 
 tiiree small forts. The Portuguese limits extend no farther than about a 
 league from the city ; they are bounded by a wall, and guarded by a few 
 soldiers under a mandarin. This mandarin is, indeed, the real governor 
 of Macao, and the person to whom the Chinese owe obedience. He has 
 not the privilege of sleeping within the enclosure of the limits, yet he may 
 visit the place, inspect the custom-houses, &c. And on these occasions 
 the Portuguese must salute him with five guns. But no European is 
 permitted to set a foot on the Chinese country beyond the wall ; an at- 
 tempt of that kind would subject any person to the mercy of the Chinese ; 
 for such an indiscretion large sums might be demanded of him, or he might 
 suffer detention as a prisoner. Some of the officers of the frigates wan- 
 tonly exposed themselves to this risk ; but it fortunately happened that no 
 serious consequences arose from their levity. The Viceroy of Goa 
 appoints all the military and civil officers at Macao. The governor and 
 the senators are nominated by him. He has lately appointed the garrison 
 to consist of 180 Indian seapoys and 120 militia; the soldiers are armed 
 with staves, the officer only being permitted to wear a sword ; but on no 
 occasion to use it against a Chinese. If a robber of that nation is detected 
 in breaking open a door, or purloining any effects, he must not be arrested 
 without the greatest precaution ; if a soldier, in his own defence, should 
 unfortunately kill him, he is delivered over to the governor, and hanged 
 in the market-place. But if a Chinese kill a Portuguese, he is examined 
 by the judges of his own nation, who make a pompous parade of fulfilling 
 all the formalities of justice, but always connive at the evasion of it. The 
 Portuguese, however, have lately made a spirited effort, which reflects 
 honour on them. A seapoy having killed a Chinese, they shot him them- 
 selves in the presence of the mandarin, and would not submit the decision 
 of the aflfair to those of his own country. 
 
 The climate of the road of Typa is, at this season of the year, precari- 
 ous ; most of the crews were afflicted with colds, accompanied with a 
 fever ; which yielded to the salutary temperature of the Island of Luconia, 
 when they approached it on the 15th of February. Wanting wood, which 
 he knew was dear at Manillia, La Perouse came to a resolution of re- 
 maining twenty-four hours at Marivella to procure some, and early the 
 next morning all the carpenters of the two frigates were sent on shore 
 with the long-boats ; the rest of the ships' companies, with the yawl, were 
 reserved for a fishing party ; but they were unsuccessful, as they fojnd 
 nothing but rocks and very shallow water. 
 
 On the 28th the navigators came to an anchor in the Port of Cavete, 
 in three fathoms, at two cables' length from the town. Cavete, situate 
 three leagues to the south-west of Manilla, was formerly a place of impor- 
 tance. It has now the commandant of the arsenal, a confiator, a few other 
 officers, and 150 men in garrison. The other inhabitants consist of 
 Mulattoes or Indians employed at the arsenal, and, with their numerous 
 families, form a population of about 4000, including the city and suburb 
 of Saint Roch. There are two parishes, and three convents of men. The 
 Jesuits had a handsome house here, which is now in the hands of govern- 
 ment. The whole place is now almost a heap of ruins. 
 
 Manilla is erected -on the bay which also bears its name, and lies at the 
 mouth of a river, being one of the finest situations in the world ; all the 
 necessaries of life may be procured thepj in abundance, and on reasonable 
 terms ; but the cloths and other manufactures of Europe are extrava- 
 gantly dear. The great possessions of the Spaniards in America have not 
 
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 305 
 
 ¥ermitted the government to attend minutely to the Philippines. La 
 •erouse confidently asserts, that a great nation, without any other colony 
 than the Philippines, which would establish a proper government there, 
 might view all the European settlements in Africa and America without 
 envy or regret. These islands contain about 3,000,000 of inhabitants, 
 and that of Luconia consists of about a third of them. These people 
 seem not inferior to Europeans ; they cultivate the land with skill, and 
 among them have ingenious goldsmiths, carpenters, joiners, masons, black- 
 smiths, &c. La Perouse says he has visited them at their villages, and 
 found them affable, hospitable, and honest. The Spaniards indeed speak 
 contemptuously of them ; but the vices they attribute to the Indians may 
 with more propriety be placed to the government established among them. 
 Coffee, sugar-canes, cotton, and indigo, grow there without cultivation, 
 and it is generally believed that their spices would not be inferior to those 
 of the Moluccas ; a general liberty of commerce for all nations would 
 command a sale which would encourage the cultivation of them all ; and 
 a moderate duty on all articles exported would soon defray the expenses 
 that government might sustain. 
 
 On the 9th of April, according to the French reckoning, and the lOth 
 as the Manillese reckon, our navigators sailed and got to the northward of 
 the Island of Luconia. On the 21st they made the Island of Formosa, 
 and experienced, in the channel which divides it from that of Luconia, 
 (Bome very violent currents. On the 22d they set Lamy Island, at the 
 fioulh-west point of Formosa, about three leagues distance. The tack 
 they then stood on conveyed them upon the coast of Formosa, near the 
 entrance of the bay of Old Fort, Zealand, where the city of Tayv/an, the 
 capital of that island, is seated. Having been informed of the revolt of 
 that Chinese colony, and that an army of 20,000 men, under the santog 
 of Canton, had been despatched against it, La Perouse resolved to sacri- 
 fice a few days to learn the particulars of this event. Only one man could 
 be prevailed on to come on board ; whose fish were instantly purchased 
 at his own price, to induce him to give a favourable account of our navi- 
 gators, should he venture to acknowledge that he had communicated with 
 them. No person could guess at the meaning of any of the answers 
 given by the fisherman to the questions which had been proposed to them. 
 The whole of the next day a dead calm occurred, in mid-channel, be- 
 tween the Bashee Islands and those of Botol Tabacoxima. It is probable 
 that vessels might provide themselves in this island with provision, wood, 
 and water. La Perouso preserved the name of Kumi Island, which Father 
 Gambd gives it in his chart. In the night of the 25th our navigators 
 passed the strait of Corea, sounding very frequently ; and as this coast 
 appeared more eligible to follow than that of Japan, they approached 
 within two leagues of it, and shaped a course parallel to its direction. 
 On the 27th they made the signal to bear up and steer east, and soon 
 perceived, in the north-north-east, an island not laid down upon any chart, 
 at the distance of about twenty leagues from the coast of Corea. He 
 named it Isle Dagelet, from the name of the astronomer, who first dis- 
 covered it. The circumference is about three leagues. 
 
 On the 30th of May La Perouse shaped his course east toward Japan, 
 and on the 2d of June saw two Japanese vessels, one of which passed 
 within hail of him. It had a crew of twenty men, all habited in blue cas- 
 socks resembling those worn by French priests. This vessel wets about 
 100 tons burthen, and had a single high mast stepped in the middle. Tha 
 Astrolabe hailed her as she passed, but neither the question nor the answer 
 
 2G* 
 
30G VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 was comprehended. She continued her course to the southward, to give 
 the earliest intelligence of two foreign vessels having appeared in seas 
 where no European navigator had ever ventured. At different times of 
 the day seven Chinese vessels, of smaller construction, were seen, which 
 were better calculated to encounter bad weather. 
 
 During the seventy-five days, since our navigators sailed from Manilla, 
 they had run along the coasts of Quelpert Island, Corea, and Japan ; but 
 as these countries were inhabited by people inhospitable to strangers, they 
 did not attempt to visit them. They were extremely impatient to recon- 
 noitre this land, and it was the only part of the globe which had escaped 
 the activity of Captain Cook. The geographers who had drawn the strait 
 of Tessoy, erroneously determined the limits of Jesso, of the Company's 
 Land, and of Staten Island ; it therefore became necessary to terminate 
 the ancient discussions by indisputable facts. The latitude of Bale de 
 Ternai was the same as that of Port Acqueis, though the description of 
 it is very different. The plants which France produces carpeted the 
 whole of this soil. Roses, lilies, and all European meadow-flowers were 
 beheld at every step. ^ Pine trees embellished the tops of the mountains ; 
 and oaks, gradually diminishing in strength and size toward the sea, adorn- 
 ed the less elevated parts. Traces of men mere frequently perceived by 
 the havoc they had made. By these, and many other corroborating 
 circumstances, the navigators were clearly of opinion, that the Tartars 
 approach the borders of the sea, when invited thither by the season for 
 fishing and hunting ; that they assemble for those purposes 'along the 
 rivers, and that the mass of people reside in the interior of the country, to 
 attend to the multiplication of their flocks and herds. M. de Langle, with 
 several other officers who had a passion for hunting, endeavoured to pur- 
 sue their sporf, but without success ; yet they imagined that, by silence, 
 perseverance, and posting themselves in ambush in the passes of the stags 
 and bears, they might be able to procure some of them. This plan was 
 determined on for the next day, but, with all their address and manage- 
 ment, it proved abortive. It was therefore generally acknowledged that 
 fishing presented the greatest prospect of success. Each of the five creeks 
 in the Bale de Ternai afforded a proper place for hauling the seine, and 
 was rendered more convenient by a rivulet, near which they established 
 their kitchen. They caught plenty of trout, salmon, cod-fish, harp-fish, 
 plaice, and herrings. 
 
 On the 4th, at three in the morning, there was a fine clear sky, and the 
 navigators saw. upon their right beam,' at the distance of two miles, in 
 the west-north-west, a great island into which a river discharged itself. 
 The country resembled that at Bale de Ternai, and, though three degrees 
 more to the northward, the 4)roductions of the earth differed very little 
 from it. M. de Vaujuas, who had been despatched in one of the boats, 
 took away one of the elk-skins, but not without leaving in exchange for 
 it some hatchets and other iron instruments of infinitely more value. 
 That officer's representation, nor that of the naturalists, did not encourage 
 La Perouse to continue any longer in this bay, on which he thought 
 proper to bestow the name of Bale de Suffren. 
 
 At eight in the morning of the 7th, he made an island which seemed 
 of great extent ; he supposed, at first, thai this was SegaUen Island, the 
 south part of which some geographers had placed two degrees too far to 
 the northward. The aspect of this land was extremely different from that 
 «5f Tartary : nothing was to be seen but barren rocks, the cavities of which 
 retained the snow. To the highest of the mountains La Perouse gavo 
 
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 307 
 
 the" appellation of Peak Lamanon. M. de Langle, who had come to anchor, 
 came instantly on board his ship, having already hoisted out his long-boat 
 and small boats. He submitted to La Perouse whether it would not be 
 proper to land before night, in order to reconnoitre the country, and gather 
 some necessary information from the inhabitants. By the assistance of 
 their glasses, they perceived some cabins, and two of the islanders hasten- 
 ing toward the woods. 
 
 Our navigators were successful in making the natives comprehend that 
 they requested a description of their country, and that of the Mantchous ; 
 one of the old sages rose up, and, with great perspicuity, pointed out the 
 most essential and interesting particulars with the end of his staff. His 
 sagacity in guessing the meaning of the questions proposed to him was 
 astonishing, though, in this particular, he was surpassed by another islan- 
 der of about thirty years of age. The last-mentioned native informed our 
 navigators that they had a commercial intercourse with the people who in- 
 habited the banks of Segalien River, and he distinctly marked, by strokes 
 of a pencil, the number of days it required for a canoe to sail up the river 
 to the respective places of their general traffic. The bay in which they 
 lay at anchor was named Bale de Langle, as Captain de Langle was the 
 first who discovered it, and first landed on its shore. They spent the re- 
 mainder of the day in visiting the country and its inhabitants. They were 
 surprised to find among a people composed of hunters and fishermen, who 
 were strangers to the cultivation of the earth, and without flocks or herds, 
 such gentle manners and such a superiority of intellect. The attention 
 of the inhabitants of the Baie de Langle was attracted by the arts and 
 manufactures of the French : they judiciously examined them, and de- 
 bated among themselves the manner of fabricating the several articles. 
 They were not unacquainted with the weaver's shuttle ; a loom of their 
 construction was brought to France, whence it appeared that their methods 
 of making linens were similar to those of the Europeans ; but the thread 
 of it is formed of the bark of the willow-tree. ThoAjgh they do not cul- 
 tivate the soil, they convert the spontaneous produce of it to the most 
 useful and necessary purposes. 
 
 At daybreak, on the 4th of July, La Perouse made the signal for getting 
 under way ; early on the 19th he saw the land of an island from north- 
 east by north, as far as east-south-east, but so thick a fog prevailed that 
 none of the points could be particularly discovered. At four the fog, in 
 a great degree, dispersed, and the navigators took bearings of the lands 
 astern, to them to the north by east. The bay, which is tlffi best in which 
 he had anchored since his departure from Manilla, he named Baie 
 d'Estaing. M. de liangle, who first landed on the island, found the islan- 
 ders assembled round three or four canoes, laden with smoked fish : he 
 was there informed that the men who composed the crews of the canoes 
 were Mantchous, and had quitted the banks of the Segalien River to be- 
 come purchasers of these fish. In the corner of the island, within a kind 
 of circus planted with stakes, each surmounted v/ith the head of a bear, 
 the bones of animals lay scattered. As these people use no fire-arms, but 
 engage the bears in close combat, their arrows being only capable of 
 wounding them, this circus might probably be intended to perpetuate the 
 memory of certain great exploits. Having entertained conjectures relative 
 to the proximity of the coast of Tartary, La Perouse at length discovered 
 that his conjectures were well-founded ; for when the horizon became a 
 little more extensive, he saw it perfectly. In the evening of the 22d he 
 came to an anchor in thirty-seven fathoms, about a league from the land. 
 
308 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 He was then abreast of a small river, to the northward of which he saw 
 a remarkable peak ; its base is on the shore, and its summit on all sides 
 preserves a regular form. La Perouse bestowed on it the title of Peak 
 la Martiniere. 
 
 On the 28th, in the evening, our navigators were at the opening of a 
 bay which presented a safe and convenient anchorage. M. de Langle 
 reported to La Perouse that there was excellent shelter behind four 
 islands ; he had landed at a village of Tartars, where he was kindly re- 
 ceived, and where he discovered a watering place abounding with the 
 most limpid element. From M. de Langle's report, La Perouse gave 
 orders to prepare for anchoring at the bottom of the bay, which was 
 named Bale de Castris. 
 
 La this bay the French navigators first discovered the use of the circle 
 of lead or bone, which these people and the inhabitants of Segalien 
 Island wear on the thumb like a ring ; it greatly assists them in cutting 
 and stripping the salmon with a knife, which is always hanging to their 
 girdle. Their village was built upon low marshy land, which must doubt- 
 less be uninhabited during the winter ; but on the opposite side of the 
 gulf another village appeared on a more elevated situation. It was 
 seated at the entrance of a wood, and contained eight cabins, larger and 
 better constructed than the first. Not far from these cabins, they visited 
 three yourts, or subterranean houses. They were sufficiently capacious to 
 accommodate the inhabitants of the whole eight cabins during the severity 
 of the inclement season. On the borders of this village several tombs pre- 
 sented themselves, which were larger and more ingeniously fabricated than 
 the houses ; each of them contained three, four, or five biers, decorated wiih 
 Chinese stuffs, some pieces of which were brocade. Bows, arrows, and the 
 other most esteemed articles of these people, were suspended in the interior 
 of these monuments, the wooden door of which was closed by a bar, sup- 
 ported at each end by a prop. 
 
 The women are wrapped in a large robe of nankeen, or salmon-skins, 
 curiously tanned, descending as low as the ancle-bone, sometimes embel- 
 lished with a border of fringe manufactured of copper, and producing 
 sounds like those of httle bells. Those salmon which furnish a covering 
 for the fair, weigh thirty or forty pounds, and are never caught in summer ; 
 those which were taken by the French visiters did not exceed three or 
 four pounds in weight ; but that disadvantage was fully compensated by 
 the extraordinary number and the extreme delicacy of their flavour. 
 
 On the 2d of August La Perouse sailed with a light breeze." Segalien 
 Island terminating in a point, a distant horizon of movmtains was no longer 
 seen ; many circumstances announced that he was approaching its southern 
 extremity, and that the peak was upon another island. On this supposi- 
 tion, which was realized the next day, the anchor was let go in the 
 evening, as the calm rendered it necessary to anchor at the south point 
 of Segalien Island. This point, which was named Cape Chillon, is 
 situated in 45 degrees 57 minutes north latitude, and 140 degrees 34 
 minutes east longitude : it terminates this island, which from north to 
 south is of immense extent, separated from Tartary by a channel termi- 
 nated by sand-banks to the northward, between which no passage for 
 ships is to be found. This island is Oku-Jesso. Chica Island, abreast 
 of our navigators, divided by a channel from that of Segalien, and from 
 Japan to the Strait of Sangaar, is the Jesso of the Japanese, extending 
 to the south as far as the Strait of Sangaar. The chain of the Kurile 
 mountains is more to the eastward, and, with Jesso and Oku-Jesso, forms 
 
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 309 
 
 a 8ca which communicates with that of Ochotsk. The persons of the 
 islanders, which were seen m Crillon Bay, were well-sized, strong, and 
 vigorous ; their features were expressive, and their beards descended to 
 their breast ; their arms, necks, and backs, were also covered with a pro- 
 fusion of hair. Their middle stature is supposed to be about an inch 
 lower tkan that of the French. Their skm is tawny, Uke that of the 
 Algerenes and other nations on the coast of Barbary. 
 
 On the 17th they approached Staten Island, of which they had a per- 
 fect view. On the 19th Cape Troun was perceived to the southward, 
 and Cape Uries to the south-east by cast, its proper direction, according 
 to the Dutch chart : their situations could not possibly have been deter- 
 mined with more precision by modern navigators. On the 20th saw the 
 Company's Island, and reconnoitred the Strait of Uries, though it was 
 very foggy, and ran along the south coast of the Company's Island, at the 
 distance or three or four leagues : it appeared to be barren, without trees 
 or verdure, and even without inhabitants. On the 29th, after a series of 
 foggy weather, our navigators reconnoitred Mareckan Island, considered 
 by some as the hrst of the southern Kuriles ; its extent is about ten 
 leagues from north-east to south-west, and each extremity is terminated 
 by an eminence, a peak or volcano rising in the middle. On the 5th of 
 September, though the fog continued obstinate, the navigators crowded 
 sail in the midst of darkness, and at six in the evening of the same day 
 it cleared up, and enabled them to see the coast of Kamtschatka, the 
 whole of which appeared hideous ; the eye surveyed with terror enormous 
 masses of rocks, which, in the beginning of September, were enveloped 
 in snow. The next day they approached the land, and found it agreeable 
 to behold when near ; and the base of these enormous summits, crowned 
 with eternal ice, was carpeted with the most beautiful verdure, finely 
 diversified with trees. In the evening of the 6th they made the entrance 
 of Awatsha Bay, or St. Peter and St. Paul. The light-house, erected 
 by the Russians on the east point of the entrance, was not kindled du- 
 ring the night ; as an excuse for which, the governor declared, the next 
 day, that all their efforts to keep it burning had been ineffectual ; the 
 wind had constantly extinguished the flames, which was only sheltered 
 by four planks of wood, very indifferently cemented. 
 
 The government of Kamtschatka had been materially changed since 
 the departure of the English, and was now only a dependency of that 
 of Ochotsk. These particulars were communicated to our navigators by 
 Lieutenant Kaborof, governor of the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, 
 having a sergeant and forty soldiers under his command. M. de Lessops, 
 who acted as interpreter, and who perfectly understood the Russian lan- 
 guage, wrote a letter, in La Perouse's name, to the governor of Ochotsk, 
 to whom La Perouse also wrote in French himself. He told him that the 
 narrative of Cook's last voyage had spread abroad the fame of the hospitality 
 of the Kamtschadale government ; and he flattered himself that he should 
 be as favourably received as the English navigators, as his voyage, like 
 theirs, was intended for the general benefit of all maritime nations. 
 
 In the midst of their labours our navigators devoted intervals to plea- 
 sure, and engaged in several hunting parties on the rivers Awatsha and 
 Paratounka, expecting to be able to shoot a few rein-deer, bears, or 
 other quadrupeds, inhabitants of that climate. They were obliged, how- 
 ever, to content themselves with a few ducks or teal, an inferior sort of 
 game, which were considered as a poor compensation for their laborious 
 excursions. But if their own endeavours were not so successful as their 
 
310 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 sanguine expectations had predicted, their friends among the Kamtscha- 
 dales made ample amends for the disappointment. During their stay 
 they had received from the inhabitants of the village an elk, four bears, 
 and a rein-deer, with such a quantity of divers wild fowl, that they found 
 it necessary to distribute a considerable part of them among their crews. 
 This was rendered the more necessary, as they had been cloyed by a 
 superabundance of fish ; a single cast of the net alongside of the frigates 
 would have produced sufficient sustenance for half a dozen ships ; but 
 there was little variety of species ; cod, salmon, herrings, and plaice, were 
 almost the only produce of the net. 
 
 The Kamtschadales are of an imitative genius, and fond of adopting 
 the customs of their conquerors. They have already abandoned the 
 yourts, in which they were formerly accustomed to burrow like badgers, 
 breathing foul air during the whole of the winter. The most opulent 
 among them now build isbas, or wooden houses, like those of the Rus- 
 sians : they are divided into three small rooms, and are conveniently 
 warmed by a brick stove. The inferior people pass their winters and 
 summers in balagans, resembling wooden pigeon-houses, covered with 
 thatch, and placed upon the tops of posts twelve or thirteen feet high, 
 to which the women, as well as men, find a ladder necessary for their 
 ascension. But these latter buildings will probably soon disappear : for 
 the Kamtschadales imitate the manners and dresses of the Russians. It 
 is curious to see in their little cottages a quantity of cash in circulation ; 
 and it may be considered as a still greater curiosity, because the practice 
 exists among so small a number of inhabitants. Their consumption of 
 the commodities of Russia and China are so few, that the balance of trade 
 is entirely in their favour, in consequence of which it is necessary to pay 
 them the difference in rubles. The Kamtschadales, says La Perouse, 
 appeared to me to be the same people as those of the Bay of Castries, 
 on the coast of Tartary ; they are equally remarkable for their mildness 
 and their probity, and their persons are not very dissimilar. 
 
 The approach of winter now warned our navigators to depart ; the 
 ground, which, on their arrival on the 7th of September, was adorned 
 with the most beautiful verdure, was as yellow and parched up on the 
 25th of the same month as in the environs of Paris at the conclusion 
 of December. La Perouse therefore gave preparatory orders for their 
 departure, and on the 29th got under way. M. Kasloff came to take a 
 final leave of him, and dined on board. He accompanied him on shore, 
 with M. de Langle and several officers, and was liberally entertained 
 with a good supper and a ball. 
 
 Signs of land were seen on the 18th and 19th of October ; flights of 
 ducks, and other birds that frequent the shore, were observed. On the 1st 
 of November, after experiencing several vicissitudes of weather, a great 
 number of birds were seen ; and, among others, curlews and plovers, two 
 species which are never observed at any considerable distance from land. 
 On the 5th they crossed their own track from Monterey to Macao ; and 
 on the 6th that" of Captain Clerke from the Sandwich Islands to Kam- 
 tschatka, when the birds had entirely disappeared. A heavy swell from the 
 east, like that from the west in the Atlantic Ocean, constantly prevails in 
 this vast sea ; they saw neither bonetas nor doradoes, nor anything but a 
 few flying-fish ; a distressing circumstance, as their fresh provision was 
 entirely consumed. 
 
 Induced by a western gale, La Perouse attempted to reach the parallel 
 of Bougainville's Navigator's Islands, a discovery due to the French, 
 
M. DE LA PEROtJSE. 311 
 
 where fresh provisions might probably be procured. On the 6th of 
 December, at three in the afternoon, he saw the most easterly island of 
 hat archipelago, and stood on and oflf during the rest of the evening 
 and night. Meaning to anchor if he met with a proper place, La Perouse 
 passed through the channel between the great and the little islands that 
 Bougainville left to the south ; though hardly a league wide, it appeared 
 perfectly free from danger. He saw no canoes till he was in the channel, 
 yet he beheld several habitations on the windward side of the island, and a 
 group of Indians sitting under the shade of cocoa nut trees, who seemed 
 •delighted with the prospect afforded by the frigates. 
 
 Expecting to meet with a more considerable island farther west, the 
 navigators flattered themselves they should find a shelter, if not a port, and 
 therefore deferred making more extensive observations till they arrived at 
 that island, which, according to M. de Bougainville's plan, they now ap- 
 proached. At break of day they were surprised not to see land to leeward ; 
 nor was it to be discovered till si.x o'clock in the morning, the channel being 
 infinitely wider than was represented on the chart which was delivered 
 to La Perouse as a guide. They found themselves opposite the north-east 
 point of the Island of Maouna at five in the evening. Being visited by two 
 or three canoes, which came alongside to exchange hogs and fruit for 
 beads, they conceived an exalted opinion of the riches of the island. 
 
 Charmed with the beautiful dawn of the following morning, La Perouse 
 resolved to reconnoitre the country, take a view of the inhabitants at their 
 own homes, fill water, and immediately get under way — prudence warning 
 him against passing a second night at that anchorage, which M. de Langle 
 also thought too dangerous for a longer stay. It was therefore agreed 
 on to sail in the afternoon, after appropriating the morning in exchanging 
 baubles for hogs and fruit. At the dawn of day the islanders had sur- 
 rounded the two frigates, with 200 different canoes laden with provisions, 
 which they would only exchange for beads ; axes, cloth, and other articles 
 of traffic were treated by them with contempt. While a part of the 
 crew was occupied in keeping them in order and dealing, the rest were 
 despatching empty casks on shore to be replenished with water. Two 
 boats of the Boussole, armed and commanded by Messrs. de Clonard and 
 Colinet, and those of the Astrolabe, commanded by Messrs. de Monti and 
 Bellegarde, set off with that view at five in the morning, for a bay at the 
 distance of about a league. La Perouse followed close after Messrs. 
 de Clonard and de Monti, in his pinnace, and landed when they did. It 
 unfortunately happened that M. de Langle had formed a resolution to 
 make an excursion in his jolly-boat to another creek, at the distance of 
 about a league from their watering place ; from this excursion a dire mis- 
 fortune ensued. The creek toward which the long-boats steered was 
 large and commodious ; these, as also the other boats, remained afloat at 
 low water, within half a pistol-shot of the beach, and excellent water was 
 easily procured. Great order was observed by Messrs. de Clonard and 
 de Monti. A line of soldiers was posted between the beach and the 
 natives, who amount to about 200, including many women and children. 
 They were prevailed on to sit down under cocoa trees, at a little distance 
 from the boats ; each of them had fowls, hogs, pigeons, or fruit, and all 
 of them were anxious to disposed of their articles without delay, which 
 created some confusion. 
 
 While matters were thus passing with perfect tranquillity, and the casks 
 expeditiously filling with water, La Perouse ventured to visit a chanming 
 village, situated in the midst of a neighbouring wood, the trees of which 
 
31^ VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 were loaded with delicious fruit. The houses formed a circle of about 
 150 toises in diameter, leaving an interior open space, beautifully verdant, 
 and shaded with trees, which rendered the air delightfully cool and re- 
 freshing. Women, children, and aged men attended him, and earnestly 
 importuned him to enter their houses ; they even spread their finest mats 
 upon the floor, decorated with chosen pebbles, and raised a convenient 
 distance from the ground, to prevent offensive humidity. La Perouse 
 condescended to enter one of the handsomest of these huts, which was 
 probably inhabited by a chief, and was astonished to behold a large cabi- 
 net of lattice-work, in which as much taste and elegance were displayed' 
 as if it had been produced in the environs of Paris. This enchanting 
 country, blessed with a fruitful soil without culture, and enjoying a cli- 
 mate which renders clothing unnecessary, holds out to these fortunate 
 people an abundance of the most estimable food. The trees invite the 
 natives to partake of the bread fruit, the banana, the cocoa nut, and the 
 orange ; while the swine, fowls, and dogs, which partake of the surplus 
 of these fruits, afford them a rich variety of viands. The inhabitants of 
 this enviable spot were so rich, and entirely free from wants, that they 
 looked with disdain on the cloth and iron tendered by the French visiters, 
 and only deigned to become customers for beads. Abounding in real 
 blessings, they languished only for superfluities. 
 
 The boats of the Boussole now arrived loaded with water, and La 
 Perouse made every preparation to get under way. M. de Langle at the 
 same instant returned from his excursion, and mentioned his having landed 
 in a noble harbour for boats, at the foot of a delightful village, and near 
 a cascade of transparent water. He spoke of this watering place as 
 infinitely more commodious than any other, and begged La Perouse to 
 permit him to take the lead of the first party, assuring him that in three 
 hours he would return on board with all the boats full of water. . Though 
 La Perouse, from the appearance of things at this time, had no great 
 apprehensions of danger, he was averse to sending boats on shore with- 
 out the greatest necessity, especially among an immense number of peo- 
 ple, unsupported and unperceived by thq ships. The boats put off from 
 the Astrolabe at half-past twelve, and arrived at the watering place soon 
 after one ; when, to their great astonishment, M. de Langle and his 
 officers, instead of finding a large commodious bay, saw only a creek 
 full of coral, through which there was no other passage than a winding 
 channel of about twenty-five feet wide. When within, they had no more 
 than five feet water ; the long-boats grounded, and the barges must have 
 been in the same situation had they not been hauled to the entrance of 
 the channel at a great distance from the beach. M. de Langle was now 
 convinced that he had examined the bay at high water only, not supposing 
 that the tide at those islands rose five or six feet. Struck with amaze- 
 ment, he instantly resolved to quit the creek, and repair to that where 
 they had before filled water ; but the air of tranquillity and apparent good 
 humour of the crowd of Indians, bringing with them an immense quantity 
 of fruit and hogs, chased his first prudent idea from his recollection. 
 
 He landed the casks on shore from the four boats without interruption, 
 while his soldiers preserved excellent order on the beach, forming them- 
 selves in two lines, the more effectually to answer their purpose. Instead 
 of about 200 natives, including women and children, which M. de Langle 
 found there at about half-past one, they were, at three o'clock, increased 
 to the alarming number of 1200. M. de Langle's situation became every 
 instant more embarrassing ; ho found means, however, to ship his water, 
 
M. DE LA PEROUSE. 313 
 
 but the bay was almost dry, and he had not any hopes of getting off the 
 long-boats till four in the afternoon. He and his detachment, however, 
 stepped into them, and took post in the bows with his musket and mus- 
 keteers, forbidding any one to fire without his command ; which he knew 
 would speedily be found necessary. Stones were now violently thrown 
 by the Indians, who were up to their knees in water, and surrounded the 
 long-boats, at the distance of about six feet — the soldiers, who were 
 embarked, making feeble efforts to keep them off. 
 
 M. de Langle, still hoping to check hostilities without effusion of blood, 
 gave no orders all this time for firing a volley of musketry and swivels ; 
 but shortly after a shower of stones, thrown with incredible force, struck 
 almost every one in the long-boat. M. de Langle had only fired two 
 shots, when he was knocked overboard, and massacred with clubs and 
 stones by about 200 Indians. The long-boat of the Boussole, commanded 
 by M. de Boutin, was aground near the Astrolabe, leaving between them 
 a channel unoccupied by the Indians. Many saved themselves by swim- 
 ming, who fortunately got on board the barges, which keeping afloat, 
 forty-nine persons were saved out of the sixty-one, of which the party 
 consisted. M. Boutin was knocked down by a stone, but fortunately fell 
 between the two long-boats, on board of which not a man remained in the 
 space of about five minutes. Those who preserved their lives by swim- 
 ming to the two barges, received several wounds ; but those who unhap- 
 pily fell on the other side were instantly despatched by the clubs of the 
 remorseless Indians. 
 
 The crews of the barges, who had killed many of the islanders with 
 their muskets, now began to make more room by throwing their water- 
 casks overboard. They had also nearly exhausted their ammunition, and 
 their retreat was rendered difficult, a number of wounded persons lying 
 stretched out upon the thwarts, and impeding the working of the oara. 
 To the prudence of M. Vaujaus, and the discipline kept up by M. Mou- 
 ton, who commanded the Boussole's barge, the public are indebted for 
 the preservation of the forty-nine persons of both crews, who escaped. M. 
 Boutin had received five wounds in the head and one in the breast, and 
 was kept above water by the cockswain of the long-boat, who had himself 
 received a severe wound. M. Colinet was discovered in a state of insensi- 
 bility upon the grapnel-rope of the barge, with two wounds on the head, an 
 arm fractured, and a finger broken. M. Lavaux, surgeon of the Astro- 
 labe, was obliged to suffer the operation of the trepan. M. de Lamanon 
 and xM. de Langle were cruelly massacred, with Talio, master-at-arms of 
 the Boussole, and nine other persons belonging to the two crews. M. le 
 Gobien, who commanded the Astrolabe's long-boat, did not desert his 
 post till he was left alone ; when, having exhausted his ammunition, he 
 leaped into the channel, and, notwithstanding his wounds, preserved him- 
 self on board one of the barges. A little ammunition was afterward 
 found, and completely exhausted on the infuriated crowd ; and the boats 
 at length extricated themselves from their lamentable situation. 
 
 At five o'clock the officers and crew of the Boussole were informed 
 of this disastrous event ; they were at that moment surrounded with 
 about 100 canoes, in which the natives were disposing of their provisions 
 with security,^ and perfectly innocent of the catastrophe which had hap- 
 pened. But they were the countrymen, the brothers, the children of 
 the infernal assassins, the thoughts of which so transported La Perouse 
 with rage, that he could with difficulty confine himself to the Umits of 
 moderation, or hinder the crew from punishing them with death. 
 
 27 
 
314 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 On the 14th of December La Perouse stood for the Island of Oyolava, 
 which had been observed before they had arrived at the anchorage which 
 proved so fatal. This island is separated from that of Maouna, or of the 
 Massacre, by a wide channel, and vies with Otaheite in beautv, extent, 
 fertility, and population. At the distance of about three leagues from 
 the north-east point, he was surrounded by canoes, laden with bread fruit, 
 bananas, cocoa nuts, sugar-canes, pigeons, and a few hogs. The inhabitants 
 of this island resemble those of the Island of Maouna, whose treachery had 
 been so fatally experienced. Some exchanges were conducted v^ith these 
 islanders with more tranquilhty and honesty than at the Island of Maouna, 
 as the smallest acts of injustice received immediate chastisement. 
 
 On the 17th they approached the Island of Pola, but not a single canoe 
 came off; perhaps the natives had been intimidated by hearing of the 
 event which had taken place at Maouna. Pola is a smaller island than 
 that of Oyolava^ but equally beautiful, and is only separated from it by 
 a channel four leagues across. The natives of Maouna informed our 
 visiters that the Navigator's Islands are ten in number, viz., Opoun, the 
 most easterly, Leone, Fanfoue, Maouna, Oyolava, Calinasse, Pola, Skika, 
 Ossamo, and Ouera. Those islands form one of the finest archipelagoes 
 of the South Sea, and are as interesting with respect to arts, productions, 
 and population, as the Society and Friendly Islands, which the English 
 navigators have so satisfactorily described. In favour of their moral 
 characters, little remains to be noticed ; gratitude cannot find a residence 
 in their ferocious minds ; nothing but fear can restrain them from out- 
 rageous and inhuman actions. The huts of these islanders are elegantly 
 formed : though they disdain the fabrications of iron, they finish their 
 work with wonderful neatness, with tools formed of a species of basaltes 
 in the form of an adxe. For a few glass-beads they bartered large three- 
 legged dishes of wood, so well polished as to have the appearance of 
 being highly varnished. They keep up a wretched kind of police ; a few, 
 who had the appearance of chiefs, chastised the refractory with their 
 sticks, but their assumed power seemed generally disregarded ; any regu- 
 lations which they attempted to enforce and to establish were trans- 
 gressed almost as soon as they were promulgated. Never were sovereigns 
 80 negligently obeyed, never were orders enforced with such feeble shadows 
 of authority. 
 
 Imagination cannot figure to itself more agreeable situations than those 
 of their villages. All the houses are built under fruit trees, which render 
 them delightfully cool ; they are seated on the borders of streams lead- 
 ing down from the mountains. Though the principal object in their 
 architecture is to protect them from oflfensive heat, the islanders never 
 abandon the idea of elegance. Their houses are sufl[iciently spacious to 
 accommodate several families ; and they are furnished with blinds, which 
 are drawn up to the windward to prevent the intrusion of the potent rays 
 of the sun. The natives repose upon fine comfortable mats, which are 
 cautiously preserved from all humidity. Nothing can be said, by our 
 travellers, of the religious rites of these natives, as no morai was perceived 
 belonging to them. The islands are fertile, and their population is sup- 
 posed to be considerable. Opoun, Leone, and Fanfoue, are small ; but 
 Maouna, Oyobiva, and Pola, may be classed among the largest and most 
 beautiful in the South Sea. Cocoa Island is lofty, and formed like a 
 sugar-loaf; it is nearly a mile in diameter, covered with trees, and is 
 separated from Traitor's Island by a channel about a league wide. At 
 eight in the morning La Perouse brought-to to the west-south-west, at 
 
M. DE LA PEROTJSE. 313 
 
 two miles from a sandy bay in the western part of the Great Island of 
 Traitors, where he expected to find an anchorage sheltered from easterly 
 winds. About twenty canoes instantly quitted the shflre and approached 
 the frigates, in order to make exchanges : several of them were loaded 
 with excellent cocoa nuts, and a few yams and bananas ; one of them 
 brought a hog and three or four fowls. It evidently appeared that these 
 Indians had before some knowledge of Europeans, as they came near with- 
 out fear, traded with honesty, and never refused to part with their fruit 
 before they were paid for it. They spoke, however, the same language, 
 and the same ferocity appeared in their countenances ; their manner of 
 tattooing and the form of their canoes were the same, but they had not, 
 like them, two joints cut off from the little finger of the left hand ; two 
 individuals had, however, suffered that operation. 
 
 On the 27th of December Vavao was perceived, an island which Cap- 
 tain Cook had never visited, but was no stranger to its existence as one 
 of the archipelago of the Friendly Islands ; it is nearly equal in extent 
 to that of Tongataboo, and is particularly fortunate in having no deficiency 
 of fresh water. The two small islands of Hoongatonga are no more than 
 two large uninhabited rocks, which are high enough to be seen at the 
 distance of fifteen leagues. Their position is ten leagues north of Ton- 
 gataboo ; but that island being low, it can hardly be seen at half that dis- 
 tance. On the 31st of December, at six in the morning, an appearance 
 like the tops of trees, which seemed to grow in the water, proved the 
 harbinger of Van Diemen's point. The wind being northerly. La Perouse 
 steered for the south coast of the island, which may, without danger, be 
 approached within three musket-shots. Not the semblance of a hill is to 
 be seen ; a calm sea cannot present a more level surface to the eye. The 
 huts o( the natives were scattered irregularly over the fields, and not 
 socially collected into a conversable neighbourhood. Seven or eight 
 canoes were launched from these habitations, and directed their course 
 toward the vessels ; but these islanders were awkward seamen, and did 
 not venture to come near, though the water was smooth, and no obstacle 
 impeded their passage. At the distance of about eight or ten feet, they 
 leaped overboard and swam near the frigates, holding in each hand a 
 quantity of cocoa nuts, which they were glad to exchange for pieces of 
 iron, nails, and hatchets ; from the honesty of their dealings a friendly 
 intercourse ensued between the islanders and the navigators, and thsy 
 ventured to come on board. 
 
 Norfolk Island, off the coast of New South AVales, which they saw 
 on the 13th of January, is very steep, but does not exceed eighty toises 
 above the level of Ihe sea. It is covered with pines, which appear to be 
 of the same species as those of New Caledonia or New Zealand. Cap- 
 tain Cook having declared that he saw many cabbage trees in this island, 
 heightened the desire of the navigators to land on it. Perhaps the palm 
 which produces these cabbages is very small, for not a single tree of 
 that species could be discovered. On the 26th, at nine in the morning. 
 La Perouse let go the anchor -it a mile from the north coast of Botany 
 Bay, in seven fathoms water. An English lieutenant and a midshipman 
 were sent on board his &hip by Captain Hunter, commander of the Sirius. 
 They offered him, in Captain Hunter's name, all the services in his power : 
 but circumstances would not permit him to supply them with provision, 
 ammunition, or sails. An officer was despatched from the French to the 
 English captain, returning thanks, and adding, that his wants extended 
 only to wood and water, of which he should find plenty in the bay. The 
 
316 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 lournal of La Perouse proceeds no farther. La Perouse, according to 
 his last letters from Botany Bay, was to return to the Isle of Franc'e in 
 17S8. For two years France in vain impatiently expected his return; 
 perhaps the apprehensions of his countrymen may have been more ago- 
 nizing than his actual^ suflering : perhaps he has been cast away upon 
 one of the islands of the South Sea, whence \m stretches out his arms 
 toward his country for protection. We have not now even the consola- 
 tion to doubt that he has experienced some dreadful calamity. 
 
 CAPTAIN EDWARD EDWARDS.~1790~93. 
 
 On the 10th of August, 1790, Captain Edwards was commissioned to 
 take the command of his majesty's ship Pandora, of twenty-four guns 
 and 160 men, to proceed to the South Seas ; in the first instance, to call 
 at Otaheite and seize the mutineers of the Bounty, who had audaciously 
 rebelled against th-ir commander, committed him with several others to 
 an open boat in the midst of the Pacific Ocean, and then ran away with 
 the ship to the above-mentioned island ; and, secondly, to sur\'ey Endea- 
 vour Straits, in order that the passage to Port Jackson, New South 
 Wales, from India might be expedited, by ascertaining its advantages and 
 dangers. Lieutenant Bligh's voyage (commander of the Bounty) not 
 being round the world, it is not given in this work ; but for the informa- 
 tion of the reader, it may be proper to state, that it was undertaken in 
 order to introduce that great vegetable necessary of the South Seas, the 
 bread fruit, into the West India Islands, bjfcas many plants of it as could 
 be conveniently carried. 
 
 Quitting England, they touched successively at TenerifFe and Rio J^eiro, 
 without any occurrence of consequence but the illness of several of the 
 crew ; who, however, recovered as they approached Cape Horn, where 
 the weather was, as usual, cold and tempestuous. January the 31st, saw 
 Cape St. Juan, Staten, and New Year's Islands. March 4th, perceived 
 Easter Island ; on the 16th discovered a lagoon island, about four miles 
 in extent, which was called after Lord Ducie ; hgoon islands are those 
 which are little better than sand-banks, supposed to be raised by the 
 little animals which form the coral rocks, with a lake, or lagoon, of sea 
 water in the centre, and producing in general little or nothing for the 
 support of human life ; hundreds of these are found in the South Seas, 
 and, being a little elevated above the surface of the water, frequently prove 
 dangerous to shipping, especially in the night. 
 
 Next day (17th) saw another of these islands, which was named after 
 Lord Hood, about six miles long, with several kinds of trees, but no ap- 
 pearance of inhabitants. Two days afterward observed a third, which 
 received the name of Carysfort Island, after his lordship ; on the 22d 
 passed Matei, and next day anchored in Matavai Bay, Otaheite. Early 
 in the morning a canoe with one man visited them, who expressed the 
 greatest satisfaction, and was astonished to see Lieutenant Hay ward, (one 
 of the Bounty officers,) as, he said, the mutineers told them that Captain 
 BHgh and the others bad gone to Whyteetakee to settle along with Cap- 
 tain Cook, who was still living there. Christian, however, chief of the 
 mutineers, with nine companions more attached to him than the others, 
 and several Otaheitean men and women, had slipped the Bounty's cable 
 in the night, and, leaving the remaining part of the crew on shore, went 
 off nobody knew whither. 
 
EDWARD EDWARDS. 317 
 
 Lieutenants Corner and Hay ward were despatched, with two boats and 
 twenty-six men, to the north side of tiie island after the mutineers, four 
 of whom in the meantime voluntarily surrendered themselves ; the boats 
 returning, reported they had chased tne remainder on shore and taken 
 their boat, the men having proceeded to the heights ; immediately upon 
 which the former officer was despatched agahist them by land with a party 
 of men, by permission of Otoo, the king; while Lieutenant Hayward 
 went for the same purpose by water, accompanied by several chiefs, par- 
 ticularly Oedidee. An Englishman, named Brown, left here by an 
 American vessel, also joined the party, and proved of considerable service, 
 having been twelve months on the island, and being sufficiently acquainted 
 with the language and manners of the natives. 
 
 Lieutenant Corner, landing at Point Venus, had several chiefs for his 
 guides and the common people to carry his ammunition, having to cross 
 a rapid river, running from the mountains, and forming a variety of curves 
 and some cataracts in its course to the sea. This they forded sixteen 
 times, the natives displaying on every occasion much more personal 
 strength than the seamen ; and occasionally roj[fes and tackles were neces- 
 sary to ascend some of the heights. During a halt, the officer expressed 
 a wish for something to eat, when one of the natives immediately ran to 
 a temple, where meat had been regularly served to the deity of the place, 
 and came back with a roasted pig, which had been offered to him that day. 
 This remarkable instance of impiety surprised the lieutenant ; but he was 
 assured by the offender, that the god had more than he could possibly 
 eat ! Having arrived at the residence of a great chief, they were hospi- 
 tably received ; and in honour of his father, then deceased, fired three 
 volleys over the body, the paper of the cartridges of which unfortunately 
 set fire to some of its coverings, which, in the estimation of these people, 
 was almost a species of sacrilege. In the meantime Mr. Hayward had 
 blocked up the fugitives by water, and, by the aid of Tamarrah, prince of the 
 upper districts, had scarcely left them a chance of escape in any direction. 
 • Thus cut off from every hope of assistance, the natives harassing them 
 behind, while Mr. Hayward advanced in front, they took shelter, under 
 cover of the night, in a hut in the woods, where they were discovered 
 by Brown, who, creeping to the place when they were asleep, discovered 
 them to be Europeans by the feel of their feet. Next day the lieutenant 
 attacked them ; but, conscious that no resistance would be availing, they 
 grounded their arms without opposition, and, under a strong guard, were 
 marched to the bouts with their arms tied behind their backs. A prison 
 for their reception was built on the after-part of the quarter-deck, in order 
 that no communication should take place between them and the ship's 
 company. Several of the natives, it seems, were their friends ; some of 
 the mutineers had married the daughters of neighbouring chiefs ; and at 
 length a conspiracy was formed to cut the ship's cables and allow her to 
 drift upon the rocks, when they would not only release their friends, but 
 enjoy the plunder of the wreck. In this scheme neither the king nor 
 any of his brothers or friends participated ; one of them, named Orapai, 
 gave the first intimation of it, and they all behaved otherwise in the most 
 friendly and obliging manner. The prisoners were daily visited by their 
 wives and offspnngs, who displayed surprising grief and attachment to 
 their husbands, the scene of their meetings being truly melancholy and 
 affecting. By these faithful partners they were likewise supplied, during 
 their stay, with every delicacy of the country. 
 
 On the 30th Captain Edwards received a visit from King Otoo and his 
 27* 
 
S18 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 two queens, one of whom was a coarse woman, about thirty years of age , 
 the other a delicate one, not more than sixteen ; they all slept together, 
 and seemed to be on very friendly terms ; presents of hogs, bananas, and 
 cocoa nuts, accompanied their majesties. Next day a grand heava, or 
 play, was ordered, for the entertainment of the English OiHcers at Point 
 Venus ; a band of music attended from the beach to conduct them to the 
 spot where the king and his retinue were in waiting ; a ring was formed 
 and the entertainment began, which consisted of singing, dancing, and 
 posture-making, very little of which could be rendered intelligible to 
 their visiters. Being now ready for sea, the natives expressed the strong- 
 est regret at their departure, cutting their heads and breasts with shells 
 in token of grief. They had promised to take several to England ; but 
 finding, on farther inquiry, that every man in England must labour hard 
 for the bread he eats, the indolent Otaheiteans, too lazy for this, declined 
 visiting such a country. King Otoo also, with his wives, wished to make 
 the same excursion, but was persuaded from it by his brother, his services 
 being wanted in the approaching war. He desired, however, as well as 
 his chiefs, to be remembered, in an especial manner, to his good friend 
 King George. 
 
 May 8th, passed York Island, near to Otaheite, under the government 
 of Matuara, brother and deputy of Otoo ; it is about twelve miles in 
 circumference. On the three following days exainined Huaheine, Ulietea, 
 Otaha, and Bolabola, for the other body of mutineers, but in vain. At 
 the latter they were visited by Tatahoo, the king ; the inhabitants are 
 more warlike than any of their neighbours, who are much afraid of their 
 prowess, so that the name of a Bolabola man is always a terror to the 
 others. A tender, about the size of a Gravesend-boat, fitted up at Ota- 
 heite, accompanied the Pandora, commanded by one of her masters' 
 mates, with seven men. On the 19th made Whyteetakee, discovered by 
 Captain Bligh ; one of the natives recollected Mr. Hay ward in the Bounty : 
 and a spear was purchased, of the most exquisite workmanship seen in 
 any of the islands. The 22d, made Palmerston's Island, and, to their 
 surprise, found a yard and some spars marked Bounty, but no other trace 
 of the mutineers. Here the jolly-boat having left the ship, and the 
 weather coming on thick immediately, she was never afterward seen nor 
 heard of, with her crew, though several days were occupied in the search 
 by the ship and other boats. June 6th, saw an island, which was called 
 after the Duke of York ; and on the 12th another, named after the 
 Duke of Clarence ; the former not inhabited, the latter pretty populous ; 
 but no intercourse took place with the people. On the ISth discovered 
 another island, of greater extent than any yet seen in these seas, being 
 twice the extent of Otaheite ; the natives warlike, but fair-deahng in their 
 intercourse with their visiters. It was called Chatham's Island. The 
 21st, saw another, which the natives named Otutuelah, about forty miles 
 long, with the people of which they traded for a very delicate species of 
 seed-cake, birds, fowls, feathers, and other curiosities ; they were very 
 timid in coming on board, and much astonished at everything they saw. 
 In the evening separated from the tender, and cruised two days off the 
 spot to rejoin her, but in vain ; proceeding eastward, they saw an island 
 observed by Bougainville ; and on the 28th made the Hapaee Islands, 
 discovered by Captain Cook. Next day they anchored in the road of 
 Annamooka, one of the Friendly Islands. 
 
 The inhabitants proved such determined thieves, that noboby durst walk 
 by himself without danger of having the clothes stripped from off his 
 
EDWARD £dWARDS. 319 
 
 back. On the 30th, Tatafee,-the king of the island, paid the Pandora a 
 tisit. The women here are more masculine than those of Otaheite, but 
 have very amiable countenances, which render them sufficiently agreeable ; 
 several handsome girls were brought for disposal by their mothers, the 
 price being at first an axe, but diminishing to razors, scissors, and nails. 
 A brisk trade was carried on for hogs, the pork being better than that of 
 Otaheite. Several attempts were made to plunder the parties sent out to 
 cut wood and grass, in one of which an attempt being made on the life 
 of Lieutenant Corner, he shot the offender dead ; these attempts, how- 
 ever, were not countenanced by the king or principal chiefs. His majesty, 
 on the contrar>-, embarked for Tafoa in the Pandora, one of his tributary 
 islands, the chiefs of which came off to do him homage, which he exem- 
 plified by putting his foot on their heads in the act of obeisance. Con- 
 tinuing the search for th« mutineers, they saw on the 14th the Navigator's 
 Isles of Bougainville, and perceived European clothes in the possession 
 of the natives. The 18th, perceived a cluster of islands, which were 
 called Howe's ; running down the north side they perceived a fine open 
 sound, into which fell some rivers. The natives \yere civil, and seem- 
 ingly much better disposed than those of Annamooka. On the 23d passed 
 rilstart Island, as supposed ; and on the 26th Middleburg Island, from 
 which a few refreshments were procured, anchoring soon after at Anna- 
 mooka, where they were grieved to find the tender had not yet appeared. 
 Once more they proceeded on their voyage, and on the 7th of August 
 made WaUis's Island ; next day another, which they named Greenville's 
 Island, the men of which came off with hostile intentions, armed with 
 clubs, which they flourished in defiance ; but, amazed at the size and 
 novelty of a man-of-war, fled at the report of a musket. The 11th, 
 passed over a shoal-of coral, on which was only eleven fathoms water, to 
 their great astonishment and terror, and in five minutes more could not 
 find bottom. On the 12th discovered an island well wooded, but not in- 
 habited, which received the name of Mitre Island, from the shape of a 
 remarkable promontory. Another small one, near it, was called Cherry's 
 Island. Next day distinguished a third, named after Mr. Pitt ; on the 
 17th found breakers, under both bows, at midnight ; in the morning dis- 
 covered they were embayed in a double reef, which doubtless will soon 
 be an island. 
 
 Lieutenant Comer was now sent to look for a passage through a reef 
 in their route, and in the evening they made a signal there was one ; but 
 it was judged prudent, considering their former escapes, to wait for the 
 morning. The ships therefore lay-to, signals being made for the return of 
 the boat, which she had no sooner done than, to the astonishment of all, 
 the ship struck on a reef at a moment when, from the precautions taken, 
 it was thought there was no danger near them. All hands were soon at 
 the pumps, the ship having nine feet water in the hold. At ten o'clock 
 she beat over the reef into fifteen fathoms water, the night dark and 
 stormy, the guns ordered to be thrown overboard, and a sail to be drawn 
 under her bottom ; one of the pum{>s, in addition to their other distress, 
 being rendered useless. The boats which were out could not approach 
 for the violent surf ; at daydawn the water had gained so far that there 
 was no possibiUty of saving the ship ; a council-of-war acquainted the 
 crew with this, who were remarkably obedient and intrepid in their inces- 
 sant labour at the pumps ; the prisoners were now restored to liberty ; 
 the spars, hen-coops, and everything buoyant cut loose, to give as many 
 as possible a last stake for their lives. The water now rushed ia at the 
 
320 VOTAGE#^ ROUND THB WORLD, 
 
 ports, the ship took a heel, and an officer informing the captain that an 
 anchor at the bow was already under water, at the same time leaping over 
 the quarter into the water, desiring him to follow, which he did. All 
 the crew did the same, when in an instant she took her last heel and was 
 buried in the waves. The boats did all in their power to render assis- 
 tance, but they could not save all, and the cries of the drowning were 
 truly afflicting. When the sun rose they saw a sandy key four miles 
 distant, to which they proceeded ; and, on musterir^ here^ thirty-five sea- 
 men and four prisoners were missing. 
 
 Very fortunately a small barrel of water, a keg of wine, some biscuit, 
 a few muskets and cartouch-boxes, had been saved ; with a saw and 
 hammer, found in one of the boats, tbcy immediately set about repairing 
 the whole, to fit them for a voyage to the nearest civilized port ; they 
 were four in number, the Pinnace, I^aunch, and Red and Blue Yawls, to 
 carry above 100 men. Having examined their allowance, it was found 
 there were only two small glasses of wine and the weight of a musket-ball 
 of bread to each person for sixteen days ; the distance to Timor, their 
 nearest port, being 1100 miles. No time was therefore to be lost. On 
 the 30th of August this httle s<juadronput to sea, the principal provisions 
 being in the Launch, to keep the boats together. The Red and Blue 
 Yawls took tlie lead, and, examining some parts of the shore of New 
 Holland, procured a small supply of water ; the natives at first appeared 
 friendly, but soon after let fly a shower of arrows, many of which went 
 through oak plank an inch thick, though fortunately without wounding any 
 of the men. Two small islands, which they examined in vain for supplies, 
 were named Plumb and Laforey's Islands ; the latter being the last place 
 where any stay was likely to be made, every man had permission to re- 
 fresh himself with sleep, but were soon awoke by the roaring of wild 
 beasts. Lieutenant Corner was despatched to look for water, and digging 
 four or five feet deep, found a spring ; a moral, or buryiug-place, was 
 situated not far off, adjoining which were marks of a fire recently made, 
 with many foot-paths toward it ; whence, from the bones strewed around 
 it, was judged there had been some scicrifices. Some of the party found 
 a few oysters, and all felt keenly the attacks of hunger ; wild fruits were 
 eaten by several as soon as they saw that the birds also partook of them, 
 a proof they were not poisonous. None of the party were permitted to 
 straggle, the natives being evidently at no great distance ; every vessel 
 they had was filled with water, and also the carpenter's boots, which, from 
 their leaking, was first used. 
 
 September 2d, proceeded on their voyage ; in the evening saw a high 
 peaked island, which was called after Lord Hawkesbury ; and, passing 
 through a channel about two miles wide and near several reefs, about 
 which were some turtle, which could not be caught, entered the great 
 Indian Ocean. Here the swell threatened destruction to their boats, for 
 the preservation of which they took each other in tow ; but the line broke 
 twice, and the night proving tempestuous, they separated for a short time, 
 but in the morning again united. On the 7th the captain's boat caught a 
 booby, which, after sucking its blood, was divided into twenty-four shares ; 
 thirst being greater than hunger, some would not have their allowance of 
 bread. Early on the 13th saw land, for which the discoverer was reward- 
 ed with a glass of water ; the boats separating, made toward it, but for 
 some hours, on account of the prodigious surf, could not find a landing 
 place. At length succeeding, they found relief in a small supply of water, 
 the greatest luxury in the world to them at this moment ; and a Chines© 
 
EDWARD EDWARDS. 321 
 
 chief coming up, whom they made sensible of their sufferings, he shed 
 tears at their distress, and supphed them with pork, fowls, and other re- 
 freshments, 30 that they once more knew the gratification of a full meal 
 of meat and drink. This island was Timor ; coasting along-shore, they 
 reached Coupang, the capital, next evening, being most hospitably received 
 by the governor and principal people, who, it was singular, had showed the 
 same kindness to Captain Bligh, who also arrivt,d in an open boat, that 
 they now displayed to the officers who had come in pursuit of the former's 
 rebellious seamen. Here they remained five weeks ; and on the 6ih of 
 October embarked in the Rembang Dutch Indiaman, reaching Samaraiig, 
 in the Island ef Java, on the 30th, after experiencing some bad weather, 
 in which the English seamen displayed their superiority over even the 
 hardy Dutchmen. To their great surprise, they found their tender here, 
 so long supposed to be lost ; Mr. Oliver's (the commander) account was 
 as follows : 
 
 " The night they parted company the savages attacked them in a strong 
 body in canoes, and, not knowing the effects of fire-arms, were not so much 
 daunted as they otherwise would have been : the conflict was severe ; the 
 English seven-barrelled pieces made groat havoc among them ; but, see* 
 ing no missiles, they scarcely knew that their companions were killed. 
 One had agility enough to spring over the boarding-netting, and, levelling 
 a deadly blow at Mr. Ohver, was shot before he effected his purpose. 
 Not finding the Pandora nest day, they steered for Annamooka, suilering 
 extremely for want of water, so that one of the young gentlemen became 
 delirious, and continued so for some months. Reaching Tafoa, closo to 
 Annamooka, the natives, notwithstanding their profession of friendship, 
 attacked them, as they always do with small vefssels, however civU they 
 may be to large ones, but were driven off by fire-arms. After sustaining 
 much distress and several encounters with hostile savages, they made the 
 reef between New Guinea and New Holland, upon which the Pandora 
 struck ; and not finding any opening through which to proceed, boldly 
 ran against it and beat over into deep water, the only alternatives being 
 famnie or shipwreck. From this peril they reached a small Dutch settle- 
 ment, where the governor, having received a description of the Bounty's 
 men, and Mr. OUver having no commission, besides, their little bark being 
 evidently of foreign timber, he believed, with every, probability, that they 
 were the mutineers. He therefore ordered them under a guard, but 
 otherwise acted with great humanity, and, when an opportunity offered, 
 sent them thither." 
 
 Samarang is a pretty town, of considerable extent, the houses regular 
 and handsome, and the streets terminating with some public building or 
 other, which has a pleasing effect to the eye ; but the introduction of 
 canals rather injures than improves its beauty and salubrity. The gover- 
 norship is second only to Batavia, and so lucrative, that the person who 
 fills it is changed every five years. A regiment of the Duke of Wurtem- 
 berg was doing duty here at the time, from which Captain Edwards and 
 his officers received many civilities. Alligators are common in the 
 neighbourhood, and to those who bathe, or frequent the vicinity of the 
 water, extremely dangerous. The governor informed them that one day, 
 in hunting, one of the black boys, having to cross a rivulet, was seized 
 by one, upon which he dismounted and sle°w him, thus saving the lad's life. 
 
 Quitting Samarang, they touched at Batavia, where, and during a tedi^ 
 ous passage to the caps, they lost several men by sickness. Here the 
 EngUsh officers received every attention and refreshment after their 
 
S'22 VOYAGES ROUND THfi \t01lLD. 
 
 fatigues. Passing St. Helena and Ascension, they arrived, without any 
 farther misadventure, at Rotterdam, whither the ship was bound ; and 
 soon after had the satisfaction of setting foot once more on their native 
 soil of England. 
 
 CAPTAIN G. VANCOUVER.— 1791-95. 
 
 NoTWrTHBTANDiNG the Valuable discoveries of Cook, farther investiga- 
 tion was required of some of the southern regions, with which view a 
 voyage was planned by his majesty in autumn, 1789, and the command 
 destined to Captain Henry Roberts, who had served under Captain Cook 
 in the last two voyages, Captain Vancouver being named as his second ; 
 and for this purpose a ship of 340 tons was purchased, in a state nearly 
 finished ; and on being launched was named the Discovery, and commis- 
 sioned as a sloop ; but the disputes with Spain respecting Nootka Sound 
 for a short time suspended her equipment. These differences being 
 terminated, and the fisheries atnd fur trade of China being objects of 
 material importance, it was deemed expedient to send an officer to Nootka 
 to receive from the Spaniards a formal restitution of the territories they 
 had seized ; (o survey the coast, and Obtain every possible information 
 of the rratural and political state of the country. To this coiitmand 
 Captain Vancouver was now appointed. The same ship, the Discovery, 
 was equipped, carrying ten four-pounders and ten swivels, with 130 men, 
 including officers. Captain Vancouver being captain, Messrs. Zechariah 
 Mudge, Peter Puget, and Joseph Baker, lieutenants ; and Joseph Whid- 
 bey, master. She was to be accompanied by the Chatham armed tender, 
 of 135 tons, four three-pounders, six swivels, and forty-five men, com- 
 manded by Lieutenant W. R. Broughton ; James Hanson, second 
 lieutenant ; and James Johnstone, master. Mr. Archibald Men/.ies, a 
 Surgeon of the navy, was also appointed for the special purpose of botani- 
 cal research. 
 
 On the 5th of February, 1791, the Discovery anchored at Spithead ; 
 on the 11th of March proceeded down the channel to Falmouth, where 
 she was, on the 31st, joined by the Chatham. On the 28th of April they 
 made Tenerilfe. They crossed the tropic of Capricorn the 12th of June, 
 in 25 degrees 18 minutes, after which it was resolved to proceed by the 
 Cape of Gootl Hope, whither they arrived the 10th of July, and where a 
 variety of necessary repairs employed them till the 1 1th of August. After 
 being detained by contrary winds and calms till the 1 7th, they then sailed 
 out of Simon's Bay, bound for the coast of New Holland, and directing 
 their course between the tracks of Dampier and Marion, over a space 
 before unfrequented. On the 27th of September they made land, and, in 
 latitude 35 degrees 3 minutes, and longitude 160 degrees 35 minutes 30 
 seconds, passed by a conspicuous promontory, to which Captain Vancouver 
 gave the name of Cape Chatham, after the earl. Other places, which 
 they successively passed, were called Baldhead, Break-Sea Island, 
 Michaelmas Island, and Seal Island. Having gone on shore to fish, they 
 discovered a most miserable human habitation lately deserted, in the shape 
 of half a Ireehive, which had been divided vertically in two equal parts, 
 one of which farmed the hut, three feet in height, and in diameter four 
 feet and a half, constructed of light twigs. To the northward they found 
 a hi'-rh rocky point, that attained the name of Point Possession, from the 
 eumTnlt of which they gained an excellent view of the sound and the ad- 
 
Q. VANCOUVER. 323 
 
 jacent country, possessing a far more fertile prospect. This coast, and 
 the country seen north-westward of Cape Chatham, was taken possession 
 of formally in the name of his majesty, the part first discovered being 
 King George the Third's Sound, and the harbour behind Point Posses- 
 sion Princess Royal Harbour, in honour of her birthday. In their way 
 out of this harbour they found a bank covered with most delicious oysters, 
 and thence called Oyster Harbour. Near Princess Royal Harbour, while 
 the ships' companies were employed in wooding and watering, was dis- 
 covered a deserted village of two dozen miserable huts, some rather better 
 than others, evincing the residence of petty chiefs. Throughout the 
 whole coast traces of fire were perceptible. There were also seen several 
 black swans swimming on the water ; but no smoke, or any indication of 
 inhabitants. 
 
 The natives appeared to be a wandering people, who sometimes made 
 their excursions individually ; at other times in considerable parties ; this 
 was apparent, by their habitations being found single and alone, as well 
 as composing tolerably large villages. Besides the village they visited, 
 Mr. Broughton discovered another about two miles distant from it, of 
 nearly the same magnitude ; but it appeared to be of a much later date, 
 as all the huts had been recently built, and seemed to have been very 
 lately inhabited. The larger trees in the vicinity of both villages had been 
 hollowed out by fire, sufficiently to aftbrd the shelter these people seemed 
 to require. Upon stones placed in the inside of these hollow trees fires 
 had been made, which proved that they had been used as habitations, 
 either for the inferior of the party, which would argue a degree of subor- 
 dination among them, or for those who were too indolent to build them- 
 selves the wattled huts before described. 
 
 From this coast Captain Vancouver proceeded to New Zealand, which 
 he reached on the 27th of October, and anchored in Dusky Bay, when 
 they encountered a heavy storm., the effects of which required considerable 
 repair, particularly of the Discovery. Another heavy gale occurred on 
 the 22d and 23d, after which, very unexpectedly, they made land, namely, 
 a cluster of seven craggy islands, the largest situated in latitude 48 de- 
 grees 3 minutes, longitude 166 degrees 20 minutes, which had not been 
 seen by Captain Cook. These sterile rocks Captain Vancouver denomi- 
 nated The Snares. Another new island was discovered on the 22d of 
 December, in 215 degrees 39 minutes. Several canoes came off to the 
 ship, but the natives would not go on board, while they used every solicita- 
 tion to induce the English to land. One at length ventured on board. 
 
 These people were evidently of the Great South Sea nation, both from 
 language and a similarity to the Friendly Islanders. Two or three of them 
 remained on board nearly an hour ; but so much was their attention dis- 
 tracted, that they could scarcely give an answer as to the name of iho 
 island, or otherwise. It appeared on the whole that they called it Oparo, 
 by which name it is therefore distinguished by Captain Vancouver. Tho 
 tops of six of the highest hills bore the appearance of fortified places, 
 resembling redoubts ; having a sort of block-house, in the shape of an 
 EngUsh glass-house, in the centre of each, with rows of palisadoes a con- 
 siderable way down the sides of the hills, nearly at equal distances. 
 These, overhanging, seemed intended for advanced works, and apparently 
 capable of defending the citadel by a few against a numerous host of 
 assailants. On all of them they noticed people, as if on duty, constantly 
 moving about. These were the only habitations they saw. 
 
 On the 29th the Discovery reached Otaheite, where they had been ex- 
 
324 VOYAGES ROUND THE \VORL». 
 
 pected in comsequence of information by an English vessel, which turned 
 out to be the Chatham, that had separated near Facile Harbour, and 
 arrived before them. The Chatham, during her separation, had seen 
 several immaterial lands, named by Mr. Broughton successively. Knight's 
 Island, (the same as The Snares of Captain Vancouver,) Point Alison, 
 Mount Patterson, The Two Sisters, and Cape Young. An island which 
 he named Chatham Island, and the anchorage of which, in Skirmish Bay, 
 was 43 degrees 49 minutes latitude, and 183 degrees 25 minutes longitude, 
 was taken possession of in the name of his majesty. Here, having gone 
 on shore, a number of the natives came about, held a convei-sation by sign* 
 and gestures, and readily received Mr. Broughton's presents, but would 
 make no exchanges. They were very anxious to have the party follow 
 them to their habitations, but this was thought imprudent. Nothing would 
 prevail on the islanders to give up any of their articles ; but they not only 
 readily accepted, but carried off various things belonging to the party, and 
 were particularly anxious to get Mr. Broughton's fowling-piece, which he 
 had fired, much to their alarm. Having, in order both lo get information 
 and to procure water, at length made signs of their intention to accompany 
 the natives, it appeared that the latter had meditated hostility, having 
 collected large sticks, swinging them over their heads, as if with an inten- 
 tion of using them ; several of them likewise had spears. Yet, being well 
 armed, Mr. Broughton's party were not afraid, especially as they thought 
 they had purchased the good opinion of the savages. They were, how- 
 ever, mistaken ; an attack was made so violently, that both Mr. Broughton 
 and Mr. Johnstone were reluctantly obliged to fire, as did the gentleman 
 having the charge of the boat, which occasioned the natives to fly, but not 
 before one of them had unfortunately perished. 
 
 On the Discovery anchoring, she was surrounded by canoes laden with 
 the country productions. Captain Vancouver found that most of the 
 friends he had left there in 1777 were dead. Otoo, now called Pomarrey, 
 his father, brothers, and sisters, Potatoo, and his family, were the only 
 of their chiefs now living. Captain Vancouver and Mr. Broughton went 
 on shore to fix on an eligible spot for tents, and to pay their respects to his 
 Oiaheitean majesty. They found Otoo (Pomarrey's son, and now king) 
 to be a boy of about nine or ten years of age. He was carried on 
 the shoulders of a man, and was clothed in a piece of English red cloth, 
 with ornaments of pigeons' feathers hanging over his shoulders. When 
 they had approached within about eight paces, they were desired to stop ; 
 the present they had brought was exhibited ; and although its magnitude, 
 and the value of the articles it contained, excited the admiration of the 
 by-standers in the highest degree, it was regarded by this young monarch 
 with an apparently stern and cool indifference. After some other cere- 
 monies, a ratification of peace and mutual friendship being acknowledged 
 on both sides, the different European articles composing the present were, 
 with some little form, presented to Otoo ; and on his shaking hands with 
 them, which he did very heartily, his countenance became immediately 
 altered, and he received them with the greatest cheerfulness and cordiality. 
 
 On the 2d day of January, 1792, arrived Pomarrey, who was, to his 
 great gratification, saluted with four guns. With him came Matooara 
 Mahow, the reigning Prince of Morea, under Otoo, but who was in a deep 
 decline. At one of the entertainments on board, Pomarrey having drank 
 a bottle of undiluted brandy, it threw him into convulsions ; after which, 
 having slept for an hour, he was perfectly recovered. Captain Vancouver 
 endeavoured to persuade him of the bad consequence of inebriety. The 
 
0. VANCOUVfiR. 325 
 
 chief on this accused him of being a stingy fellow, and not tio tio, (a jolly 
 companion.) On this it was determined to give him his own way, and 
 orders were given to let him have as much brandy or rum as he should call 
 for, which had completely the effect, for in a week he ceased to call for any. 
 
 Pomarrey's father, formerly called Happi, now Taow, also came on a 
 visit, and a most affectionate interview took place between the three sons 
 and their aged and venerable father. A very different scene was after- 
 ward exhibited. It was announced that Otoo was approaching. On this 
 occasion it became necessary that the grandfather should pay homage to 
 his grandson. A pig and a plantain leaf were instantly procured ; the 
 good old man stripped to the waist ; and when Otoo appeared in the front 
 of the marquee, the aged parent, whose limbs were tottering with the de- 
 cline of life, met his grandson, and on his knees acknowledged his own 
 inferiority, by presenting this token of submission ; which, so far as could 
 be discovered, seemed offered with a mixture of profound respect and 
 parental regard. The ceremony seemed to have little effect on the young 
 monarch, who appeared to notice the humiliating situation of his grand- 
 sire with the most perfect indifference and unconcern. This mode of be- 
 haviour is, however, rather to be attributed to the force of education than 
 to a want of the proper sentiments of affection. 
 
 On the 14th a message was received of the death of Mahow, at Oparree, 
 which district was, for some days, by a religious interdict, forbidden com- 
 munication with the rest of the island. Mr. Broughton, and a party of the 
 gentlemen belonging to the ships, having made an excursion for purchasing 
 curiosities among the islands, landed to see the grand morai, or tapoota- 
 pootatea. Mowree, the sovereign of Ulietea, who attended them, on ap- 
 proaching the sacred spot, desired the party would stop until he should 
 address the eatooa. Then, seating himself on the ground, he began 
 praying before a waita, ornamented with a piece of wood, indifferently 
 carved, on which was placed, for the occasion, a bundle of cloth and some 
 red feathers. During this ejaculation the names of the party were twice 
 mentioned. He likewise repeated the names of the several commanders 
 who had visited the island ; together with those of " Keene Gorge " (that 
 is. King George) and "Britarne," which were frequently expressed. 
 When these introductory ceremonies were finished, Mowree attended them 
 to every part of the morai, and explained every particular. He appeared 
 to be well versed in all the ceremonials and rites appertaining to their re- 
 ligion, which made the party greatly lament their want of a competent 
 knowledge of the language, as they were unable to comprehend his mean- 
 ing, except in a few common instances. 
 
 The next morning they were again honoured by a visit from Otoo and 
 several of the chiefs, on their way to the morai. Soon after a canoe, 
 covered with an awning, was seen coming from the westward, paddling 
 in a slow and solemn manner toward the morai, in which was the corpse 
 of the deceased chief. On their expressing great anxiety to see Poraar- 
 rey, for the purpose of obtaining permission to attend the burial ceremony, 
 they were informed that he was gone to the morai, but would have no 
 objection to their being present. They proceeded ; and near to the rivulet 
 that flows by Urripiah's house, they saw the queen-mother, Fier-re-te, 
 and the widow of the deceased Mahow, sitting all in tears ; and, in the 
 paroxysms of their affliction, wounding their heads with the sharks' teeth 
 they had prepared the preceding evening. The widow had a small spot 
 shaved on the crown of her head, which was bloody, and bore other evident 
 marks of having frequently undergone the cruel effect of her despair. The 
 
 28 
 
§2^ VOYAGES ROtJND THE WORlfi. 
 
 body of Mahow, wrapped in English red cloth, was deposited under an 
 awning in a canoe, whose bow was drawn up a little way on the beach 
 near the moral, and was attended by one man only, at her stern, up to 
 middle in water, to prevent her driving from the spot. The priests con- 
 tinued chanting their prayers, frequently exalting their voices, until they 
 ended in a very shrill tone. The address being ended, they all rose up 
 and proceeded westward along the shore, followed by the canoe in which 
 was the corpse, to the mouth of the rivulet, where the three royal ladies 
 still continued to mdulge their excessire grief; and, on perceiving the 
 canoe, burst forth into a loud yell of lamentation, which was accompanied 
 oy an accelerated application of the sharks' teeth, until the blood, very 
 freely following, mingled with their tears. The canoe entered the brook 
 and proceeded toward another morai at the foot of the mountains, where 
 the ceremonies to be performed on the body of the deceased required such 
 secrecy, that on no account could the gentlemen be permitted to attend, 
 although it was most earnestly requested. 
 
 In consequence of a message from Pomarrey, Captain Vancouver and 
 Messrs. Broughton and Whidbey went to Oparree, to assist at the mourn- 
 ing for the death of Mahow. The concern here of the relatives was by 
 no means such as might have been expected from their tender regard to 
 the chief when aliv^e. The corpse was laid on the tapapaoo, which seem- 
 ed to have been erected for the express purpose, about a quarter of a mile 
 to the eastward of the grand moral, (or, as it is called, " tapootapootatea,") 
 and appeared to be then undergoing the latter part of the embalming pro- 
 cess, in the same manner as described by Captain Cook in the instance 
 of Tee. The body was exposed to the sun ; and on their approach the 
 covering was taken off, which exhibited the corpse in a very advanced 
 state of putrefaction. The skin shone very bright with the cocoa nut oil 
 with which it had been anointed, and which they understood was highly 
 impregnated with "aehigh," or sweet-scented wood. One of the arms 
 and a leg being moved, the joints appeared perfectly flexible. The ex- 
 tremely offensive exhalations that were emitted rendered it natural to 
 conclude, that the whole mass would soon be completely decomposed ; 
 but if credit may be given to their assertions, which were indubitably 
 confirmed by the remains of Tee, and to which the captain could bear 
 testimony, this will not be the case. Pomarrey informed them, the 
 corpse was to remain a month in this place ; then a month was to be em- 
 ployed in its visiting some of the western districts ; after which it was to 
 be removed to Tiarrabou for another month ; whence it was to be carried 
 to Morea, and there finally disposed with his forefathers in the morai of 
 the family. In the course of a few months after its arrival there, it would 
 gradually begin to moulder away, but by such very slow degrees, that 
 several months would elapse before the body would be entirely consumed. 
 The boat's crew were ranged before the paling that encompassed the 
 tapapaoo ; a piece of red cloth from them was given to the widow, who 
 spread it over the dead body ; some volleys were then fired, and the cap- 
 tain was directed to pronounce •' Tera no oea Mahow," that is> For you, 
 Mahow. On some rain falling, the body was taken under cover and 
 carefully wrapped up. They proceeded to an excellent new house of 
 Whytooa's, where they dined, and returned to Matavai with too large 
 hogs, presented on this mournful occasion by the widow of Mahow. 
 
 A serious theft of a large quantity of linen belonging to Mr. Broughton, 
 as well as two axes, now demanded the most rigorous inquiry. An addi- 
 tional mortification happened on the 21sc. Towereroo, a Sandwich Is- 
 
G. VANCOUVER. 32? 
 
 lander, (brought out from England in the Discovery,) had, in the course 
 of the preceding night, found means to elope from the ship. After much 
 trouble of investigation, and some coercion, on the 33d the three royal 
 brothers brought back Towereroo, with a variety of expiatory presents. 
 The linen there appeared now no prospect of recovering, without both 
 losing time and having recourse to unpleasant measures ; it was, there- 
 fore, resolved to depart without it ; presents as usual were distributed, 
 and the separation took place with the utmost harmony. 
 
 Omai, it seems, having died without children, the house which Captain 
 Cook had built for him, the lands th-it were purchased, and the horse, 
 which was still alive, together with such European commodities as re- 
 mained at his death, all descended to Matuara, as king of the island } 
 And, when his majesty is at home, Omai's house is his constant residence. 
 From Matuara they learned that Omai was much respected, and that he 
 frequently afforded great entertainment to him and the other chiefs with 
 the accounts of his travels, and de;jcribing the various countries, objects, 
 &c., that had fallen under his observation ; and that he died universally- 
 regretted and lamented. His deatli, as well as that of the two New 
 Zealand boys left with him by Captain Cook, was occasioned by a dis- 
 order that is attended by a large swelling in the throat, of which very few 
 recover. 
 
 On the 24th of January the Discovery and Chatham directed their course 
 to the northward, for the first time pomting their heads toward the grand 
 object of the expedition. On tlie 2d of February passed Owyhee, one of 
 the Sandwich Islands, and were honoured by a visit from Tianna, the 
 personage mentioned in Mr. Meares's voyage, who, since his return from 
 China, had taken part with Tamaahmaah against Teamawheere, and, being 
 victorious, these two chiefs had agreed to share the government. Tianna 
 was taken on board to go on to the leeward islands. Tareehooa, who 
 preferred the name of Jack, having been with Mr. Ingram, commanding 
 an American ship, laden with furs, from North-West America, bound to 
 Boston by the way of China, was desirous of continuing on board the 
 Discovery, and to proceed the voyage, which, with consent of the chief,' 
 was complied with. After passing some desolate islands, the Discovery 
 anchored, on the 7th of March, in a bay called Whykete, south of the 
 It-land of Woahoo, on good and safe ground. Some of the inhabitants 
 went on board, and were exceedingly orderly and docile, which appeared 
 the more remarkable, as they had formerly been represented as the most 
 daring and unmanagcabfe of any in the Sandwich Islands. 
 
 Their new ship-mate, Jack, became very useful ; he took upon him to 
 represent tliem in the most formidable point of view to all his countrymen ; 
 magnifying their powers and numbers, and proclaiming that they were not 
 traders, such as they had been accustomed to see ; but Were belonging 
 to King George, and were all mighty warriors. This being his constant 
 discourse, it is not to be wondered that his countrymen became much 
 intimidated ; and, as this could be productive of no ill consequences, they 
 permitted Jack to proceed in his encomiums, and unanimously agreed it 
 would not be his fault if they were not in high repute among the islanders. 
 
 The natives having failed in supplying water as expected, Captain 
 Vancouver set sail, on the 8th, for Atooi, where he understood it was 
 to be had without difficulty. Whyhetee Bay hes in latitude 21 degrees 
 16 minutes 47 seconds, and longitude 202 degrees 9 minutes 37 seconds. 
 Next morning they made AVhymea Bay, on the south side of Atooi. 
 The inhabitants of this island behaved in the same orderly manner, and 
 
328 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 with the same distant civility experienced at Woahoo, and gave the ne- 
 cessary assistance in watering and other operations. The land here was 
 also much the same, and similarly cultivated with the taro plant. Here 
 were found Rowbottom, an Englishman, Williams, a Welshman, and Cole* 
 man, an Irishman, left for the purpose of collecting pearls and sandal-wood 
 for their master, John Kendrick, an American, commanding the Lady 
 Washington, and which was to call for them in her return from China, to 
 take them on board with the pearls and sandal-wood collected. They 
 were visited by two chiefs, No-ma-tee-he-tee and Too, announcing that 
 Enemoh, guardian of the young prince Ta-moo-eree, who was the eldest 
 son of Taio, sovereign of this and the neighbouring islands, together with 
 the prince himself, would b"; with them in a few days. They accordingly 
 came and behaved with the utmost propriety, although, from certaii; ap- 
 pearances of fire, as well as the circumstance of a schooner taken by the 
 Indians at Owyhee, and the cautions of Rowbottom, Captain Vancouver 
 had not been without suspicions of treachery. Enemoh readily went on 
 board, and an exchange was made of presents, which, though liberal on 
 the part of Captain Vancouver, did not give satisfaction ; the great desire 
 of the chief, as of all of them, being to have fire-arms and ammunition, 
 with which the various traders touching at their islands had most impro* 
 pcrly, and even cruelly, supplied the inhabitants. 
 
 Wednesday, the 14th of iVIarch, the two ships sailed for the coast of 
 America. On the 17th of April they saw land, being part of New Albion, 
 and being then in 39 degrees 27 minutes latitude, and 236 degrees 25 
 minutes longitude. On the 28th they spoke an American ship, Columbia, 
 Mr. Robert Gray, commander, of Boston, whence she had been absent 
 eighteen months. On the 29th anchored about eight miles within the 
 entrance of the supposed Strait of Juan de Fuca. Of course they made a 
 strict investigation of this passage, and were satisfied that it did not exist. 
 
 Port Discovery, where the vessels now went to anchor, is a perfectly 
 safe and convenient harbour, having its outer points one mile and three 
 quarters asunder, and situated in latitude 48 degrees 7 minutes, and longi- 
 tude 237 degrees 20^ minutes. The country of New Albion, in this neigh- 
 bourhood, is of a rich fertile soil. In respect to its mineral productions 
 no great variety was observed. Iron ore, in its various forms, was gene- 
 rally found ; and, from the weight and magnetic qualities of some speci- 
 mens, appeared tolerably rich, particularly a kind that much resemble the 
 olood-stone. These, with quartz, agate, the common flint, and a great 
 intermixture of other silicious matter, (most of the stones they met with 
 being of that class,) with some variety of calcareous, magnesian, and 
 argillaceous earths, were the mineral productions generally found. 
 
 The next place of research was Admiralty Inlet, where the ships 
 anchored oflf Restoration Point. The general information here is little. 
 The natives were much the same, equally ill-made, and their persons 
 besmeared with oil and ochre, and a sort of shinning chaffy mica very 
 ponderous, and in colours resembling black-lead ; but decked more with 
 copper ornaments, while they were not wanting in acts and offers of friend- 
 ship and hospitality, and behaved with perfect decorum and civility. 
 
 About a dozen of these friendly people had attended at their dinner, 
 one part of which was a venison pasty. Two of them expressing a 
 desire to pass the line of separation drawn between them, were permitted 
 to do so. They sat down by the English, and ate of the bread and fish 
 given them without the least hesitation ; but, on being oflfered some of 
 the venison, they could not be induced to taste it. They received it with 
 
G. VANCOUVER. 329 
 
 i» 
 great disgust, and presented it round to the rest of the party, by whom it 
 uuderweat a very strict examination. Their conduct on this occasion left 
 no doubt tiiat they believed it to be human flesh, an impression which it 
 was highly expedient should be done away. To satisfy them that it was 
 the flesh of ihe deer, they pointed to the skins of the animal they had about 
 them. In reply to this they pointed to each other, and made signs that 
 could not be misunderstood, that it was the flesh of human beings, and 
 threw it down in the dirt, with gestures of great aversion and displeasure. 
 At length they happily convinced them of their mistake by showing them 
 a haunch they had in the boat, by which means they were undeceived, 
 and some of them ate of the remainder of the pie with a good appetite. 
 
 On Monday, the 4th of June, the ships' companies were served a good 
 dinner, it bring the anniversary of his majesty's birth ; on which day 
 they designed to take formal possession cf all the countries they had lately 
 been employed in exploring. Pursuing the usual formalities on such 
 occasions, and under the discharge of a royal salute from the vessels, they 
 took possession accordingly of the coast from that part of New Albion 
 in the latitude of 39 degrees 20 minutes, and longitude 236 degrees 26 
 minutes east, to the entrance of this inlet of the sea, said to be the Straits 
 of Juan de Fuca, as likewise all the coast, islands, &c., by the name of 
 the Gulf of Georgia ; and the continent binding the said gulf, and extending 
 southward to the 46th degree of north latitude, with that of New Georgia, 
 in honour of his majesty. 
 
 On the 6th of June the Discovery and Chatham sailed from Possession 
 Sound. Having anchored on the 11 th in Strawberry Bay, so named from 
 its producing that excellent fruit in abundance, latitude 48 degrees 36 
 minutes, and longitude 237 degrees 34 minutes, and there beiug several 
 things necessary to be done, Captain Vancouver and Mr. Paget, in the 
 Discovery's yawl, and Mr. Whidbey, in the cutter, attended by the Chat- 
 ham's launch, explored the neighbourhood. As they were rowing, on 
 the 22d, for Port Grey, purposing there to land and breakfast, they dis- 
 covered two vessels at anchor under the land. They were a brig and a 
 schooner, wearing the colours of Spanish vessels of war, most probably 
 employed in pursuits similar to their own ; and this idea was confirmed. 
 These vessels proved to be a detachment from the commission of Seignior 
 Malaspina, who was himself employed in the Philippine Islands. Seignior 
 Malaspina had, the preceding year, visited the coast, and these vessels, 
 his Catholic majesty's brig the Sutil, under the command of Seignior Don 
 D. Galiano, with the schooner Mexicana, commanded by Seignior Don C. 
 Valdes, both captains of frigates in the Spanish navy, had sailed from 
 Acapulco on the 8th of March, in order to prosecute discoveries on this 
 coast. From these gentlemen Vancouver understood, that Seignior 
 Quadra, the commander-in-chief of the Spanish marine at St. Bias and 
 at California, was, with three frigates and a brig, waiting his arrival at 
 Nootka, in order to negotiate the restoration of those territories to the 
 crown of Great Britain. Their conduct was replete with that politeness 
 and friendship which characterize the Spanish nation ; every kind of 
 useful information they cheerfully communicated, and obligingly expressed 
 much desire, that circumstances might so concur as to admit their respec- 
 tive labours being carried on together. 
 
 On the 17th of August they were suddenly surprised by the arrival of 
 a brig off the entrance of the cove, under English colours. She was the 
 Venus, belonging to Bengal, of 110 tons burthen, commanded by Mr. 
 Shepherd, last from Nootka, and bound on a trading voyage along these 
 
 28* 
 
330 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 • 
 shores. By him they received the pleasant tidings of the arrival of the 
 Dasdalus store-ship, laden with a supply of provisions and stores for their 
 use ; and he acquainted Mr. Baker, that Seignior Quadra v*ras waiting with 
 the greatest impatience to deliver up the settlement and territories at 
 Nootka. Mr. Shepherd had brought with him a letter from Mr. Thomas 
 Newmaster, of the Daedalus, informing Vancouver of a most distressing 
 and melancholy event. Lieutenant Hergest, the commander, Mr. William 
 Gooch, the astronomer, with one of the seamen belonging to the Daedalus, 
 had been murdered by the inhabitants of Whoahoo, while on shore pro- 
 curing water at that island. 
 
 August 19th, they proceeded from the last station, namely, Point Men- 
 zies, in latitude 52 degrees 18 minutes, longitude S33 degrees 55 minutes, 
 and on the 28th arrived off Nootka Sound. The Chatham, by the partial 
 clearing of the fog, had found her way in some time before ; the Daedalus 
 store-ship and a small merchant brig called the Three Brothers, of Lon- 
 don, commanded by Lieutenant Alder, of the navy, were also there at 
 anchor. Seignior Quadra, with several of his officers, came on board the 
 Discovery on the 29th, where they breakfasted, and were saluted with 
 thirteen guns on their arrival and departure ; the day was afterward spent 
 in ceremonious offices of civility, with much harmony and festivity. Ma- 
 quinna, the native chief of Nootka, who was present on this occasion, had 
 early in the morning, from being unknown to them, been prevented 
 coming on board the Discovery by the sentinels and the officer on deck, 
 as there was not in his appearance the smallest indication of his superior 
 rank. Of this indignity he had complained in a most angry manner to 
 Seignior Quadra, who very obligingly found means to sooth him. 
 
 Some difficulties now occurred in respect to the particulars of the resti- 
 tution ; but, after written and verbal correspondence, it was agreed that 
 the objections on both sides should be referred to the respective courts. 
 Seignior Quadra, however, having thereafter made farther objections, an 
 additional correspondence took place ; but the Spanish officer insisting, 
 and being positively resolved to adhere to certain principles proposed by 
 him as to the restitution, to which Captain Vancouver could not accede, 
 the latter acquainted him that he should consider Nootka as a Spanish 
 port, and requested his permission to carry on the necessary employments 
 on shore, which he very politely gave, with the most friendly assurance 
 of every service and kind office in his power. 
 
 It was not till the 12th of October that the Discovery sailed from Nootka, 
 with the Chatham and Daedalus store-ships, bound to the southward. 
 November 15th, discovered anchorage in a most excellent small bay. The 
 herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, grazing on the surrounding hills, were 
 a sight they had long been strangers to, and brought many pleasing reflec- 
 tions. On hoisting the colours at sunrise, a gun was fired, and in a little 
 time afterward several people were seen on horse-back, coining from be- 
 hind the hills down to the beach, who waved their hats, and made other 
 signals for a boat, which was immediately sent to the shore, and on its 
 return they were favoured with the company of a priest of the order of 
 St. Francisco, and a sergeant in the Spanish army, to breakfast. The 
 good friar, after pointing out the most convenient spot for procuring wood 
 and water, and repeating hospitable offers, in the name of the fathers of 
 the Franciscan order, returned to the mission of St. Francisco, which they 
 understood was at no great distance, and to which he gave them the most 
 pressing invitation. 
 
 While engaged in allotting to the people their diflferent employments, 
 
e. VANCOUVER. 331 
 
 some saddled horses arrived from the commandant, with a very cordial 
 invitation, which was accepted by the captain and some of the officers. 
 They rode up to the presidio, an appellation given to their miUtary esta- 
 blishments in this country, and signifying a safe-guard. The residence 
 of the friars is called a mission. The Spanish soldiers composing the 
 garrison amounted to thirty-five, who, with their wives, families, and a 
 few Indian servants, composed the whole of the inhabitants. On the left 
 of the church is the commander's house, consisting of two rooms and a 
 closet only, which are divided by massy walls, and communicating with 
 each other by very small doors. Between these apartments and the out- 
 ward wall was an excellent poultry-house and yard, which seemed pretty 
 well stocked ; and between the roof and ceilings of the rooms was a kind 
 of lumber garret ; these were all the conveniences the habitation seemed 
 calculated to afford. On approaching it they found his good lady, who, 
 like her spouse, had passed the middle age of life, decently dressed, seat- 
 ed cross-legged on a mat, placed on a small square wooden platform raised 
 three or four inches from the ground, nearly in front of the door, with two 
 daughters and a son, clean and decently dressed, sittino; by her ; this being 
 the mode observed by these ladies when they receive visiters. The 
 decorous and pleasing behaviour of the children was really admirable, and 
 exceeded anything that could have been expected from them under the, 
 circumstances of their situation, without any other advantages than the 
 education and example of their parents, which, however, seemed to have 
 been studiously attended to, and did them great credit. 
 
 The next day was appointed for visiting the mission. Accompanied 
 Dy Mr. Menzies and some of the officers, and Seignior Sal, the captain 
 rode thither to dinner. Its distance from the presidio is about a league, 
 in an easterly direction. Its situation and external appeannce in a great 
 measure resembled that of the presidio ; and, like its neighbourhood, the 
 country was pleasingly diversified with hill and dale. The uniform, mild, 
 and kind-hearted disposition of this religious order has never failed to 
 attach to their interest the affections of the natives, wherever they have 
 sat down among them ; this is a very happy circumstance, for their situa- 
 tion otherwise would be excessively precarious, as they are protected 
 only by five soldiers, who reside under the directions of a corporal, in the 
 buildings of the mission at some distance on the other side of the church 
 The natives, however, seemed to have treated with the most perfect in- 
 difference the precepts and laborious example of their truly worthy and 
 benevolent pastors. Deaf to the important lessons, and insensible of the 
 promised advantages, they still remained in the most abject state of un- 
 civilization ; and if we except the inhabitants of Terra del Fuego and those 
 of Van Dieraen's Land, they are certainly a race of the most miserable 
 beings, possessing the faculties of human reason, they ever saw. Their 
 persons, generally speaking, were under the middle size, and very ill made ; 
 their faces ugly, presenting a dull, heavy, and stupid countenance, devoid 
 of sensibility or the least expression. One of their greatest aversions is 
 cleanliness, both in their persons and habitations, which, after the fashion 
 of their forefathers, were still without the most trivial improvement. Their 
 houses were of a conical form, about six or seven feet in diameter at their 
 base, and are constructed by a number of stakes, chiefly of the willow tribe, 
 which are driven erect into the earth in a circular manner, the upper ends 
 of which, being small and pliable, are brought nearly to join at the top, 
 in the centre of the circle. 
 
 On the 25th they set sail for Monterey, where they found the Daedalus, 
 
832 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and also Seignior Quadra, with his broad pendant on board the brig Acteon. 
 He, as well as the acting governor, Seignior Anquilla, behaved in the 
 most friendly and liberal manner. Among the articles obtained here, 
 were live cattle and sheep, to be transported to the Sandwich Islands, Port 
 Jackson, and New South Wales, whither Lieutenant Hanson sailed in 
 the Dajdalus, with despatches for Commodore Phillips, having directions 
 to call at Otaheite, to receive on board 21 English seamen, who had been 
 cast av/ay in that neighbourhood. Mr. Broughton also, with the assistance 
 of Seignior Quadra, was enabled to proceed to England through New Spain, 
 with despatches to the admiralty, containing accounts of the hitherto 
 transactions of the voyage, Mr. Puget being appointed to the command 
 of the Chatham. 
 
 They sailed on the 14th of January, and on the 12th of February ar- 
 rived oft the north-east point of Owyhee. 
 
 Having, on the 21st of February, reached Tyahtatooa, Captain Van- 
 couver was honoured with a visit from Tamaahmaah, the king of the 
 Island of Owyhee, a chief of an open, cheerful, and sensible mind, com- 
 bined with great generosity and goodness of disposition. He was accom- 
 panied by John Young, an English seaman, who possessed much in- 
 fluence with hnn. The queen and some of his majesty's relations also 
 visited on board. The sole object was to invite and entreat their pro- 
 ceeding to Karakakooa. 
 
 They were much pleased with the decorum and general conduct of 
 this royal party. Though it consisted of many, yet not one solicited 
 even the most inconsiderable article, nor did they appear to have 
 any expectation of receiving presents. Being determined that nothing 
 should be wanting to preserve the harmony and good understanding 
 that seemed to have taken place between them, and having learned 
 from Young that the royal visiters did not entertain the most distant idea 
 of accepting anything from the captain, until they had first set the ex- 
 ample, he considered this a good opportunity to manifest a friendly dis- 
 position toward them, by presents suitable to their respective ranks and 
 situations. Accordingly, such articles were distributed as they knew 
 were likely to be highly acceptable to the whole party. This distribu- 
 tion being finished, and the whole party made very happy, the king, in 
 addition to what he had before received, was presented with a scarlet 
 cloak, that reached from his neck to the ground, adorned with tinsel lace, 
 trimmed with various coloured gartering tape, with blue ribands to tie it 
 down the front. The looking-glasses being placed opposite to each other, 
 displayed at once the whole of his royal person ; this filled him with rap- 
 ture, and so delighted him, that the cabin could scarcely contain him. His 
 ecstasy produced capering, and he soon cleared the cabin of many of their 
 visiters, whose numbers had rendered it very hot and unpleasant. Ho 
 himself soon followed, and after strutting some little time upon deck, ex- 
 posed himself in the most conspicuous places, seemingly with the greatest 
 indifference, though in reality for the sole purpose of attracting the admira- 
 tion and applause of his subjects. 
 
 Next morning they reached Karakakooa, the residence of Tamaahmaah ; 
 from whence, before the ship was well secured, eleven large canoes put 
 off from the shore with great order, and formed two equal sides of an 
 obtuse triangle. The largest canoe, being in the angular point, was rowed 
 by eighteen paddles on each side ; in this was his Owyhean majesty, 
 dressed in a primed linen gown that Captain Cook had given to Terreoo- 
 boo, and the most elegant feathered cloak they had yet seen, composed 
 
G. VANCOUVER. 333 
 
 principally of beautiful bright yellow feathers, and reaching from his 
 shoulders to the ground, on which it trailed. On his head he wore a very 
 handsome helmet, and made altogether a very magnificent appearance. 
 His canoe was advanced a little forward in the procession, to the actions 
 of which the other ten strictly attended, keeping he most exact and regular 
 time with their paddles, and inclining to the right or left, agreeably to the 
 directions of the king, who conducted the whole business with a degree 
 of adroitness and uniformity, that manifested a knowledge of such move- 
 ments and manoeuvre, far beyond what could reasonably have been ex- 
 pected. In this manner he paraded round the vessels with a slow and 
 solemn motion. This not only added a great dignity to the procession, 
 but gave time to the crowd of canoes alongside to get out of the way. 
 He now ordered the ten canoes to draw up in a line under their stern, 
 while, with the utmost exertions of his paddlers, he rowed up along the 
 starboard side of the ship, and though the canoe was going at a very great 
 rate, she was in an instant stopped, with that part of the canoe where his 
 majesty was standing immediately opposite the gang-way. He instantly 
 ascended the side of the ship, and taking hold of the captain's hand, de- 
 manded if they were sincerely his friends 1 To this Vancouver answered 
 in the affirmative; he then said, that he understood they belonged to 
 King George, and asked if he was likewise his friend 1 on receiving a 
 satisfactory answer to this question, he declared that he was their firm 
 good friend ; and, according to the custom of the country, in testimony 
 of the sincerity of their declarations, they saluted by touching noses. 
 He then presented the captain with four very handsome feathered helmets, 
 and ordered the ten large canoes that were under the stern to come on 
 the starboard side. Each of these contained nine very large hogs, while a 
 fleet of smaller canoes, containing a profusion of vegetables, were ordered 
 by him to deliver their cargoes on the opposite side. This supply was more 
 than they could possibly dispose of; some of the latter he was prevailed 
 upon to reserve ; but although their decks, as well as those of the Chatham, 
 •were already encumbered with their good things, he would not suffer one 
 hog to be returned to the shore. The remaining live stock on board, con- 
 sisting of five cows, two ewes, and a ram, were sent on shore in some 
 of his canoes ; these were all in a healthy state, though in low condition, 
 and they had little doubt of their succeeding to the utmost of their wishes. 
 
 Besides Young, his Owyhean majesty's favourite before-mentioned, 
 there were here also John Smith, an Irishman, who had deserted from an 
 American trader, and Isaac Davis, who had been captured by the islanders 
 in the schooner Fair American. These men behaved extremely well, 
 and had been taken under the special patronage of Tamaahmaah, who 
 was much irritated at the above capture, and the treatment of the peo- 
 ple belonging to the schooner, which was atrociously taken by Tamaahmoo- 
 too, a powerful chief, and his people, but which Tamaahmaah caused to 
 be delivered up to them, to be kept for the benefit of the proprietor. Mr. 
 Metcalf, who had the command of the schooner, was thrown overboard 
 by Tamaahmootoo, who took out of her everything he could before the 
 arrival of the king and Young. In this affair Tianna had also acted a 
 scandalous part, endeavouring, by false insinuations, to prevail on the 
 king to kill Young and Davis ; but his arts were unsuccessful on his 
 majesty, whose sound judgment and humane attentions would have done 
 credit to the sovereign of a more civilized people. 
 
 On the 4th of March, as soon as dinner was over, they were summoned 
 to a sham- fight on shore ; and as Tamaahmaah considered all ceremonies 
 
334 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and formalities as adding to his consequence, he requested that the cap- 
 tain would be attended on shore by a guard. They found the warriors 
 assembled toward the north corner of the beach, without the limits of the 
 hallowed ground. The party consisted of about 150 men, armed with 
 spears ; these were divided into three parties, nearly in equal numbers ; 
 two were placed at a little distance from each other ; that on the right 
 was to represent the armies of Titeeree and Taio ; that on the left the 
 army of Taraaahmaah. Their spears on this occasion were blunt-pointed 
 sticks, about the length of their barbed ones, while on each wing they 
 were to suppose a body of troops placed to annoy the enemy with stones 
 from their slings. The combatants now advanced toward each other, 
 seemingly without any principal leader, making speeches as they ap- 
 proached, which appeared to end in vaunts and threats from both parties, 
 when the battle began, by throwing their sham spears at each other. 
 These were parried in most instances with great dexterity ; but such as 
 were thrown with effect produced contusions and wounds, which, though 
 fortunately of no dangerous tendency, were yet very considerable ; and it 
 was admirable to observe the great good humour and evenness of temper 
 that was preserved by those who were thus injured. This battle was a 
 mere skirmish, neither party being supported, nor advancing in any order, 
 but such as the fancy of the individuals directed. Some would advance 
 even from the rear to the front, where they would throw their spears, and 
 instantly retreat into the midst of their associates, or would remain picking 
 up the spears that had fallen without effect. These they would some- 
 times hurl again at the foe, or hastily retreat, with two or three in their 
 possession. Those, however, who valued themselves on military achieve- 
 ments, marched up toward the front of the adverse party, and in a vaunt- 
 ing manner bid defiance to the whole of their adversaries. In their left 
 hand they held their spear, with which, in a contemptuous manner, they 
 parried some of those of their opponents, while with their right they 
 caught others in the act of flying immediately at them, and instantly re- 
 turned them with great dexterity. In this exercise no one seemed to 
 excel his Owyhean majesty, who entered the lists for a short time and 
 defended himself with the greatest dexterity, much to their surprise and 
 admiration, in one instance particularly, against six spears that were 
 hurled at him nearly at the same instant ; three he caught, as they were 
 flying, with one hand ; two he broke, by parrying them with his spear in the 
 other ; and the sixth, by a trifling inclination of his body, passed harmless. 
 
 This part of the combat was intended to represent the king as having 
 been suddenly discovered by the enemy in a situation where he was least 
 expected to be found ; and the shower of darts that were instantly direct- 
 ed to that quarter were intended to show that he was in the most immi- 
 nent danger ; until advancing a few paces, with the whole body of his 
 army more closely connected, and throwing their spears with the utmost 
 exertion, he caused the enemy to fall back in some little confusion, and he 
 himself rejoined the English, without having received the slightest injury. 
 
 The consequences attendant on the first man being killed, or being so 
 wounded as to fall on the disputed ground between the contending armies, 
 were next exhibited. This event causes the loss of many lives and much 
 blood in the conflict that takes place, in order to rescue the unfortunate 
 individual, who, if carried off by the adverse party, dead or alive, becomes 
 an immediate sacrifice at the moral. On this occasion the wounded man 
 was supposed to be one of Titeeree's soldiers, and until this unhappy 
 period no advantage appeared on either side ; but now the dispute became 
 
a. VANCOUVER. 335 
 
 very serious, was well supported on all sides, and victory still seemed to 
 hold a level scale, until at length the supposed armies of Taio and Titee- 
 ree fell back, while that of Tamaahmaah carried off in triumph several 
 supposed dead bodies, dragging the poor fellows (who already had been 
 much trampled upon) by the heels some distance through a light, loose 
 sand ; and who, notwithstanding their eyes, ears, mouth, and nostrils, 
 were by this means filled, were no sooner permitted to use their legs, 
 than they ran into the sea, washed themselves, and appeared as happy 
 and as cheerful as if nothing had happened. 
 
 In this riot-like engagement the principal chiefs were considered to 
 bear no part ; and, on its being thus concluded, each party sat quietly 
 down on the ground, and a parley, or some other sort of conversation, 
 took place. The chiefs were now supposed to have arrived at the theatre 
 of war, which had hitherto been earned on by the common people only 
 of both parties ; a very usual mode of proceeding among these islanders. 
 They now on both sides came forward, guarded by a number of men 
 armed with spears of great length, called pallaloos. These weapons are 
 never relinquished but by death or captivity ; the former is the most 
 common. They are not barbed, but reduced to a small point, and though 
 not very sharp, yet are capable of giving deep and mortal wounds by the 
 force and manner with which they are used. The missive spears are all 
 barbed about six inches from the point, and are generally from seven to 
 eight feet long. 
 
 The warriors armed with the pallaloos now advanced with a conside- 
 rable degree of order, and a scene of very different exploits commenced ; 
 presenting, in comparison to what before had been exhibited, a wonderful 
 degree of improved knowledge in military evolutions. This body of men, 
 composing several ranks, formed in close and regular order, constituted a 
 firm and compact phalanx, which in actual service was not easily to be 
 broken. Having reached the spot in contest, thy sat down on the ground 
 about thirty yards asunder, and pointed their pallaloos at each other. 
 After a short interval of silence, a conversation commenced, and Taio 
 was supposed to state his opinion respecting peace and war. The argu- 
 ments seemed to be argued and supported with equal energy on both sides. 
 When peace under certain stipulations was proposed, the pallaloos were 
 inclined toward the ground, and when war was announced, their points 
 were raised to a certain degree of elevation. Both parties put on the ap- 
 pearance of being much upon their guard, and to watch each other with a ^ 
 jealous eye, while this negotiation was going forward ; which, however, not 
 terminating amicably, their respective claims remained to be decided by 
 the fate of a battle. Nearly at the same instant of time they all arose, 
 and, in close columns, met each other by slow advances. This move- 
 ment they conducted with much order and regularity, frequently shifting 
 their ground, and guarding with great circumspection against the various 
 advantages of their opponents ; while the inferior bands were supposed 
 to be engaged on each wing with spears and slings. The success of the 
 contest, however, seemed to depend entirely on those with the pallaloos, 
 who firmly disputed every inch of the ground, by parrying each other's 
 lunges with the greatest dexterity, until some to the left of Titeeree's 
 centre fell. This greatly encouraged Tamaahmaah's party, who, rushing 
 forward with shouts and great impetuosity, broke the ranks of their op- 
 ponents, and victory was declared for the arms of Owyhee, by the sup- 
 posed death of several of the enemy ; these at length retreated ; and, on 
 bemg closely pressed, the war was decided by the supposed death of 
 
336 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Titeeree and Taio ; and those who had the honour of personating these 
 chiefs were, hke those before, dragged in triumph by the heels over no 
 small extent of loose sand)r*)each, to be presented to the victorious Ta- 
 maahmaah, and for the supposed purpose of being sacrificed at his morai 
 These poor fellows, like those before-mentioned, bore their treatment with 
 the greatest good humour. 
 
 Having sailed from Owyhee, they arrived on the 10th of March off 
 Mowee, of which some parts were cultivated and inhabited, others the re- 
 verse. Besides the attempts to consolidate a peace with the other islands. 
 Captain Vancouver's great object here was to investigate the murders of 
 laeutenant Hergest and Mr. Gooch, at Maokoo. 
 
 About noon next day, they had the company of a chief named Tomo- 
 homoho, who said he was younger brother to Titeeree, and that he had 
 come, by his orders, to conduct them to the best anchorage at Baheina, 
 where Titeeree himself would shortly meet them. 
 
 On the l3th they were honoured with the presence of Titeeree, who 
 was considered as king of all the islands to the leeward of Owyhee ; and 
 that from him Taio derived his authority. He came boldly alongside, 
 but entered the ship with a sort of partial confidence, accompanied by 
 several chiefs ; he was greatly debilitated and emaciated ; and, from the 
 colour of his skin, they judged his feebleness to have been brought on by 
 2in excessive use of the ava. Among the articles presented to him on 
 this occasion was a cloak, similar to those given Tamaahmaah ; this 
 highly delighted him ; and he was also well pleased with the other pre- 
 sents he received. 
 
 The royal party appearing to be perfectly satisfied of their friendly in- 
 tentions, the captain demanded of Titeeree what offence had been com- 
 mitted by the late Mr. Hergest and Mr. Gooch, to occasion their having 
 been put to death. To this question they all repHed, that neither of those 
 gentlemen, nor any other person belonging to the Daedalus, had, to their 
 knowledge, been guilty of any offence whatever. He then requested to 
 know what was the reason of their having been murdered, and who was 
 the chief that gave orders for that purpose. This question was also an- 
 swered by the solemn declaration of the whole party, that there was no 
 chief present on that melancholy occasion ; nor was any chief in the 
 least degree concerned ; but that the murder was committed by a law- 
 less set of ill-minded men ; and that the instant Titeeree had become 
 acquainted with the transaction, he had ordered all those who had been 
 principally concerned to be put to death ; and, in consequence of his 
 direction, three of the offenders had suffered that punishment. He then 
 desired to know, if three people only had been concerned. The king 
 replied, that many were present at the time, but that only three or four 
 more were concerned in the murder ; who would likewise have suffered 
 death, had they not found means to escape to the mountains, where they 
 had secreted themselves for some time ; but that he understood they had 
 returned, and were now living on or near an estate belonging to Tomo- 
 homoho. 
 
 After some farther interchange of civilities, and much negotiation re- 
 specting the wished- for peace, Captain Vancouver sailed from Mowee the 
 18th of March, having Tomohomoho on board, and on the 20th reached 
 Whyteetee, in Whoahoo. One double canoe only made its appearance. 
 In this came James Coleman, one of the three men they found last year, 
 left by Mr. Kendrick, at Atooi. The 21st, Coleman, with Tomohomoho 
 and Tennavee, came on board. The two chiefs desired the captain would 
 
O. VANCOtJVER. 537 
 
 attend them into the cabin ; where, after shutting all the doors, they inform- 
 ed him that the man who had murdered Mr. Hergest, with two others who 
 had been equally active and guilty, were in the forepart of the canoe, and 
 that no time should be lost in securing them, lest anything should Iran 
 spire, and they should again make their escape. On the 22d a few of 
 the natives were about the ship, but not so many as on the former days. 
 After breakfast, Coleman, with Tomohomoho and Tennavee, came on 
 board. The latter two demanded the immediate execution of the pri- 
 soners. This, however, was not complied with, as it was deemed right 
 that they should again be accused by their own chiefs, in the presence of 
 all the witnesses, of the crime with which they stood charged, in order, 
 if possible, to draw from them a confession of their guilt, and to renew 
 the opportunity which before had been given them, of producing some 
 evidence in proof of their innocence. Nothing, however, could be ex- 
 torted from any of them, but that they were totally ignorant of any such 
 circumstances having ever happened on the island. This very assertion 
 amounted almost to self-conviction, as it is not easy to believe that the 
 execution of their comrades, by Titeeree's orders, for the same offence 
 with which they had been charged, had not come to their knowledge, or 
 that it could have escaped their recollection. Neither the captain nor 
 the officers discovered any reason, from the result of this farther examina- 
 tion, to retract or alter their former opinion of their guilt, or of delivering 
 them over to their own people, to be dealt with according to the direc- 
 tions of their chief. 
 
 That the ceremony might be made as solemn and awful as possible, a 
 guard of Seamen and marines were drawn up on that side of the ship 
 opposite to the shore, where, alongside of the ship, a canoe was stationed 
 for the execution. The rest of the crew were in readiness at the great 
 guns, lest any disturbance or commotion should arise. One ceremony, 
 however, remained yet to be performed. One of these unfortunate men 
 had long hair ; this it was necessary should be cut from his head before 
 he was executed, for the purpose of being presented, as a customary 
 tribute on such occasions, to the king of the island. They were shocked 
 at the want of feeling exhibited by the two chiefs at this awful moment, 
 who, in the rudest manner, not only cut off the hair, but, in the presence 
 of the poor suffering wretch, without the least compassion for his situa- 
 tion, disputed and strove for the honour of presenting the prize to the 
 king. The odious contest being at length settled, the criminals were 
 taken one by one into a double canoe, when they were lashed hand and 
 foot, and put to death by Tennavee, their own chief, who blew out their 
 brains with a pistol ; and so dexterously was the melancholy office per- 
 formed, that life fled with the report of the piece, and muscular motion 
 seemed almost instantly to cease. 
 
 The two chiefs were anxious that there should be an interview between 
 the captain and Trytooboory. Reappeared to be about thirty- three years of 
 age, his countenance was fallen and reduced, his emaciated frame \vas in a 
 most debilitated condition, and he was so totally deprived of the use of his 
 legs, that he was under the necessity of being carried about like an infant. 
 
 Some of the islanders next day, when about midway between Whoahoo 
 and Atooi, took an opportunity to visit the ship. The foremost of 
 these, undertaking so distant a voyage in a single canoe, much attracted 
 their attention ; on her coming alongside, she proved to be without ex- 
 ception the finest canoe they had seen among these islands. This vessel 
 was sixty-one feet and a half long, exceeding, by four feet and a half, the 
 
 29 
 
338 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 largest canoes of Owyhee ; its depth and width were in their proper 
 tion of building, and the whole of the workmanship was finished in a verj 
 masterly manner. 
 
 The size of this canoe was not its only curiosity ; the wood of which 
 it was formed was an infinitely greater, being made out of an exceedingly 
 fine pine tree. As this species of timber is not the produce of any of 
 these islands, and as the natives informed them it was drifted by the ocean, 
 it was probably the growth of some of the northern parts of America. 
 
 They now bade adieu to the Sandwich Islands, and made the best of 
 their way for Nootka. The Discovery arrived the 20th of May. Mr. 
 Paget had arrived with the Chatham on the 15th of April, and departed 
 thence the 18th of May, according to his instructions, to proceed in the 
 survey of the coast. Mr. Puget's journal, a letter, and other papers, 
 were left at Nootka for Captain Vancouver, who also received letter* 
 there from the Viceroy of New Spain, containing the most flattering 
 assurances of every support and assistance that kingdom was capable 
 of affording. The houses of the natives in the neighbourhood were found 
 to be of a different construction from any they had before seen ; they were 
 erected on a platform, and raised and supported near thirty feet from the 
 ground by perpendicular spars of a very large size ; the whole, occupy- 
 ing a space of about thirty-five yards by fifteen, was covered in by a roof 
 of boards lying nearly horizontal, and parellel to the platform ; it seemed 
 to be divided into three different houses, or rather apartments, each ha- 
 ving a separate access, formed by a long tree in an inclined position from 
 the platform to the ground, with notches cut in it by way of steps, about 
 a foot and a half asunder. Up one of these ladders Mr. Johnstone, with 
 one of his party only, was suffered to ascend, and by removing a broad 
 board, placed as a kind of door on the platform where the ladder rested, 
 they entered on a small area before the door of the house or apartment 
 to which the ladder belonged. Here they found four of the natives posted, 
 each bearing a rude weapon made of iron, not unlike a dagger. They 
 only permitted Mr. Johnstone to look about him, and seemed much averse 
 to his entering the house, which he prudently did not insist upon ; but, 
 so far as he was able to observe within doors, their internal arrangements 
 differed little or nothing from the domestic economy of the Indians already 
 seen on the shores of North- West America. The number of inhabitants 
 seen at this curious place did not exceed a dozen or fourteen, but among 
 them were neither women nor children. Mr. Johnstone discovered from 
 this that their landing had excited no small degree of alarm, which greatly 
 subsided on their departure. 
 
 In the course of continuing the examination of the coast, they met 
 with some Indians of very different behaviour from those they had hitherto 
 seen. As they advanced, they were joined by a party of fifteen natives 
 in two canoes. A smoke had before been observed among the trees on 
 the eastern shore, but they saw no appearance of any habitations. These 
 .people approached without much hesitation, and in their countenances 
 was expressed a degree of savage ferocity, infinitely surpassing anything 
 of the sort they had before observed in the various tribes that had fallen 
 under their notice. Many of those before seen had their faces painted 
 in various modes ; but these had contrived so to dispose of the red, white, 
 and black, as to render the natural ugliness of their countenances more 
 horribly hideous. This frightful appearance did not seem to be a new 
 fashion, but to have been long adopted by their naturally ferocious dis- 
 positions, and was correspondent to the stern and savage deportment they 
 
G. VANCOUVER. 339 
 
 took so much pains to exhibit. The captain offered them such presents 
 as he had been accustomed to make on similar occasions, but they wero 
 rejected by some with disdain, while the few who deigned to accept any- 
 thing received them with a stern and cool indifference. Among the party 
 was a woman, who was additionally disfigured by extraordinary lip orna- 
 ments ; this did not a little augment her froward, shrewdish aspect. He 
 offered her a looking-glass, with some trinkets, but at the sight of the 
 most savage fellow of the party, she contemptuously rejected them. This 
 Indian then arranged his spears, about six or eight in number, and placed 
 them with their points just over the bow of the canoe, near where he sat ; 
 he also laid near him his bow with some arrows, then put on his war- 
 garment, and drew his dagger. Some in the other canoe made similar 
 preparations, either to menace an attack, or, what seemed more likely, to 
 convince them they were upon their guard against any violence they might 
 be inclined to offer them. 
 
 A party of twenty-five natives, conducted by two chiefs, visited the 
 at anchor off one part of the coast, and were very sociable. One 
 of the chiefs, who had a very open, cheerful countenance, was the finest 
 figure and the stoutest Indian Captain Vancouver had seen on the coast. 
 The greatest treat which could be given them was bread and molasses, 
 which they admired very much ; but were also very anxious to recommend 
 their whale oil as even a still greater delicacy than molasses. In the 
 afternoon, as these new friends were visiting the Chatham, they were 
 suddenly surprised by the arrival of a large canoe full of men, singing 
 a song and keeping time by the regularity of their paddling. Their 
 course, directed toward the Discovery, seemed not to correspond with the 
 wishes of the former party, who immediately equipped themselves in their 
 war-garments, and their spears, which had lain in the bottom of their 
 canoes, were now got to hand, and couched in an inclined position, with 
 their points toward the new comers. Thus prepared, they advanced 
 slowly to meet them, making most violent and passionate speeches, which 
 were answered in a similar tone of voice by some persons who stood up 
 in the large canoe. They continued to paddle with much regularity toward 
 each other ; yet those who had now entered the harbour did not appear to 
 be so hostilely inclined as those who had already occupied the port ; as the 
 lances of the former, though in readiness for action, were not disposed 
 in a way so menacing. Oa a nearer approach, they rested on their pad- 
 dles, and entered into a parley ; and we could then observe, that all those 
 who stood up in the large canoe were armed with pistols or blunderbusses, 
 very bright and in good order. Their conversation seeming to have ended 
 in a pacific way, the opposing party returned with their new comers, who, 
 on passing by the Chatham, laid down their arms ; but just as they came 
 alongside the Discovery, one of the chiefs who had been on board drew 
 With much haste, from within the breast of his wai-garment, a large iron 
 dagger, and appeared to be extremely irritated by something that had 
 been said by those in the large canoe, who again, with great coolness, 
 took up their pistols and blunderbusses ; but on an explanation appearing 
 to be made, their arms were again returned to their proper places ; their 
 pistols and ammunition were carefully wrapped up, and a perfect recon- 
 ciliation seemed to have taken place on both sides. 
 
 The survey was continued sedulously till the 5th of October, when 
 both vessels returned to Nootka. The usual ceremonies of salutes and 
 other formalities having passed, accompanied by Mr. Puget, Vancouver 
 waited on Seignior Saavadra, the commandant of the port ; who said that 
 
840 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 he had not received any intelligence, either fram Europe or from New 
 Spain, since their departure from hence in the spring ; and that neither 
 the Daedalus nor any other ship with stores had been there. 
 
 Having quitted Nootka, nothing of importance occurred till their arri- 
 val, on the 19lh, in Port St. Francisco, They were soon hailed from 
 Ihe shore, upon which a boat was despatched thither, and immediately 
 returned with their civil and attentive friend, Seignior Sal ; who, in ad- 
 dition to the offers of his services and hospitality, gratified them by com- 
 municating the interesting intelligence of the state of Europe, up to so 
 late a date as the preceding February. After supper he retired to the 
 shore, and the next morning the captain received from him two letters ; 
 the one requesting, in an official form, that he would acquaint him in 
 writing of his arrival in Port St. Francisco, of the supplies he should 
 want, and of the time he intended to remain in that port ; the other 
 stating that, under the superior orders by which alone his conduct could 
 be governed, he was obliged to make known, that no individual could be 
 permitted to corae on shore, but for the purposes of procuring wood and 
 water, excepting the captain and one officer, or midshipman, who might 
 pass to the presidio, where they should be received and attended as on 
 their former visit. 
 
 These restrictions were of a nature so unexpected, ungracious, and 
 degrading, that they could not but consider them as little short of a dis- 
 mission from St. Francisco. 
 
 In proceeding toward Monterey, they made so little progress, that 
 they were still at no great distance from St. Francisco next moning, the 
 25th, when a vessel was descried to the north-north-west ; and, on 
 standing toward her, she proved to be the Daedalus. On the 1st of No- 
 vember they reached Monterey with the Da3dalus. 
 
 Having anchored before another Spanish establishment, Vancouver 
 sent Lieutenant Swaine to inform the commanding officer at the presidio 
 of their arrival. 
 
 The next morning, accompanied by Lieutanants Puget and Hanson, 
 Vancouver paid his respects on shore to Seignior Don Phelipe Goycochea, 
 the commandant of the establishment of Santa Barbara, and heutenant 
 in the Spanish infant'-y. The pleasing society of their good friends at 
 the mission and presidio was augmented by the arrival of Friar Vincente 
 Santa Maria, one of the reverend fathers of the mission of Buena Ventura, 
 situated about seven leagues from hence, on the sea-coast to the south- 
 eastward. At eight in the evening they anchored in fifteen fathoms 
 water, about a league to the westward of Buena Ventura. Their reve- 
 rend friend expressed great satisfaction at the mode of his return to the 
 mission ; and said, that his voyage hither would probably lay the founda- 
 tion for removing the absurd and deep-rooted prejudice that had ever exist- 
 ed among the several tribes of Indians in his neighbourhood, who, from 
 their earliest infancy, had invariably regarded all strangers as their enemies. 
 
 On their entering the mission, they were received by Father Francisco 
 Dume, and entertained in a manner that proved the great respectabdity 
 of the Franciscan order. 
 
 The morning, which was most delightfully pleasant, was employed in 
 viewing the buildings of the mission, the arrangement of the gardens and 
 cultivated land in its immediate vicinage. These all appeared to be in a very 
 supfrior style to any of the new settlements they had yet seen, and would 
 have tempted a more minute inquiry, had not an anxious desire for pro- 
 ceeding onward prohibited the delay it would necessarily have occasioned. 
 
O. VANCOUVER. 341 
 
 On the 27ih reached St. Diego, and despatched Lieutenant Swaine to 
 the presidio, in order to inform the commanding officer of their arrival, 
 and to inquire if any despatches for them had been intrusted to his care, 
 or if he knew of any that had passed this station on their way to Mon- 
 terey. A continuation of southerly winds caused them to be detained, 
 contrary to expectation, until Monday, the 9th, when they quitted the 
 Port of St. Diego. 
 
 The fourth examination of the coast was a matter anxiously wished by 
 Captain Vancouver ; but it would have exceeded the strict letter of his 
 instructions, and might possibly have excited additional jealousy in the 
 breast of the Spanish acting governor. 
 
 Nothing of consequence occurred till their arrival, on the 8th of Janu- 
 ary, 1794, at Owyhee, off the Bay of Whyealea, where their return 
 was proclaimed by shouts of joy, and they were visited by Tamaahmaah, 
 rejoiced to meet his friends at this his favourite part of the island ; bat it 
 being found more proper to proceed to Karakakooa, the king, notwithstand- 
 ing a strict taboo, consented to accompany Captain Vancouver in the ship. 
 Among the visiters on board Tahowmanam, the king's wife, did not ap- 
 pear, a separation having taken place in consequence of a supposed in- 
 timacy between her and Tianna. 
 
 Their course was now directed round the east point of the island, 
 along its south-east side ; they made tolerable good progress ; and as 
 they passed the district of Opoona, on the 11th, the weather being very 
 clear and pleasant, they had a most excellent view of Mowna Roa's 
 snowy summit and the range of the lower hills that extend toward the 
 east end of Owyhee. From the tops of these several columns of smoke 
 were seen to ascend, which Tamaahmaah said were occasioned by the 
 subterraneous fires that frequently broke out in violent eruptions, causing 
 among the natives such a multiplicity of superstitious notions, as to give 
 rise to a religious order of persons, who perform volcanic rites. 
 
 As they worked into the Bay of Karakakooa, many of the inhabitants 
 were assembled on the shores, who announced their congratulations by 
 shouts of joy ; many of their former friends, particularly of the fair sex, lost 
 no time in testifying the sincerity of the public sentiment in their favour. 
 Young and Davis they had likewise the pleasure of finding in the exer- 
 cise of those judicious principles they had so wisely adopted, and which, 
 by their example and advice, had so uniformly been carried into effect. 
 
 On Thursday, the 30th, they were favoured with the company of Ter- 
 ree-my-tee, Crymamahoo, Tianna, and some other chiefs, from the dis- 
 tant parts of the island. Their arrival had been in consequence of a 
 summons from the king, who had called the grand council of the island, 
 on the subject of its cession to the crown of Great Britain, which was 
 unanimously desired. These chiefs brought intelligence, that a quantity 
 of timber, which had been sent for at the captain's request, was on its 
 way hither ; it had been cut down under the direction of an Englishman, 
 named Boyd, formerly mate of the sloop Washington, but who had re- 
 linquished that way of life, and had entered into the service of Tamaah- 
 maah. He appeared in the character of a shipwright, and had under- 
 taken to build, with these materials, a vessel for the king, after the 
 European fashion ; but both himself and his comrades, Young and Da- 
 vis, were fearful of encountering too many difRculties ; especially as they 
 were all much at a loss in the first outset, that of laying down the keel. 
 This afforded Vancouver an opportunity of conferring on Tamaahmaah 
 a favour that he valued far beyond every other obligation, by permitting 
 
 29* 
 
343 VOtAGES ROITN'D THE WORLD. 
 
 his carpenters to begin the vessel ; from whose example, and the assis- 
 tance of these three engineers, he was in hopes that his people would 
 hereafter be able to build boats and small vessels for themselves. On 
 Saturday, the 1st of February, they laid down the keel, and began to 
 prepare the frame-work of his Owyhean majesty's first man-of-war. 
 The length of its keel was thirty-six feet, the extreme breadth of the 
 vessel nine feet and a quarter, and the depth of her hold about five feet ; 
 her name was to be The Britannia, and was intended as a protection to 
 the royal person of Tamaahmaah ; and few circumstances in his life ever 
 afforded him more satisfaction. 
 
 Some solemn religious rites being now to take place, Captain Vancou- 
 ver had frequently expressed to Tamaahmaah a desire of being present 
 on some of these occasions ; and he now informed him he had obtained 
 the consent of the priests, provided he would, during the continuance of 
 the interdiction, attend to all the restrictions which their religion demand- 
 ed. The restraints imposed consisted chiefly in four particulars : first, a 
 total seclusion from the company of women ; secondly, partaking of no 
 food but such as was previously consecrated ; thirdly, being confined to 
 the land, and not being afloat or wet with sea-water ; and, fourthly, not 
 receiving, or even touching, the most trivial article from any one who had 
 not attended the ceremonies at the morai. These restrictions were con- 
 sidered necessary to be observed by the whole of the parly resident on 
 shore ; and about sunset they attended the summons of the king at the 
 morai, who was there officiating as high priest, attended by some of the 
 principal residents of their religious orders, chanting an invocation to the 
 setting sun. Their prayers seemed to have some regularity and form, 
 and they did not omit to pray for the welfare of his Britannic majesty, 
 and their safe and happy return to their native country. A certain degree 
 of order was perceptible throughout these ceremonies, accompanied by 
 many superstitious and mysterious formalities ; among which a very prin- 
 cipal one was performed about the dawn of day. At this time the most 
 profound silence was required of every creature within hearing of this sa- 
 cred place. The king then repeated a prayer in a low tone of voice with 
 the greatest solemnity, and in the middle of it took up a live pig tied by 
 the legs, and with one efibrt dashed it to death against the ground ; an 
 operation which must be performed without the slightest interruption or 
 cry from the victim, or without the prevailing silence being broken by any 
 noise whatsoever, though of the most trivial kind. This part of the ser- 
 vice is supposed to announce their being on terms of friendship with the 
 gods, on which the farther ceremonies were carried into execution. A 
 number of hogs, plantains, and cocoa nuts, were then consecrated for the 
 principal chiefs and priests ; the more common productions, such as fish, 
 turtle, fowls, dogs, and the several esculent roots that compose their food 
 during the intervals between these more sacred taboos, were not now 
 served up, but for the first time since their arrival they fared sumptu- 
 ously on those more deUcious articles. The intermediate day, the 13th, 
 and the second night, were passed in prayer, during which they found no 
 difficulty in complying with the prescribed regulations, and soon after the 
 sun rose, the 14th, they were absolved from any farther attention to their 
 sacred injunctions. 
 
 The cession of Owyhee to his Britannic majesty became now an object 
 of serious concern. Some little delay and difficulty, however, arose from 
 the absence of two chiefs, Commanow, who from local circumstances 
 could not quit his government, and Tamaahmootoo, chief of Koarra, tlie 
 
O. VAXCOUVEIl. 343 
 
 person w"ho had captured the Fair American schooner. Their first salu- 
 tation being over, he caught the earUest opportunity to offer an apology 
 for the offence that had so justly kept them strangers to each other. He 
 complained of having been treated very ill by the crews of some vessels 
 that had visited Toeaigh Bay, and particularly of his having been beaten 
 by Mr. Metcalf, commanding the Eleonora, at the time w^hen his son, who 
 afterward had the command of the Fair American, was on board the 
 former vessel. 
 
 The glass went freely round after dinner ; and as this ceremony was 
 completely within the reach of Tamaahmootoo's imitation, he was anxious 
 to excel in this accompUshment, by drinking with less reserve than any 
 one at table. Vancouver thought it proper to remind him that, as he was 
 not in the habit of drinking spirituous liquors like Tamaahmaah and the 
 other chiefs present, it was necessary he should be upon his guard, lest 
 the wine and grog should disagree with him ; but as his spirits became 
 exhilarated he became less attentive to these admonitions, until the opera- 
 tion of the liquors obliged him to retire. In this state it is not possible 
 to imagine a countenance more expressive of indignation or of savage 
 barbarity and resentment ; his eyes were fixed on the captain as he was 
 carried out of the marquee, while his tongue, no longer confined within 
 his lips, indistinctly uttered attoou-anni, signifying that he had poisoned 
 him, and some present, even of their old acquaintance, seemed to be a 
 little concerned for his safety. The king, however, laughed at their ap- 
 prehension, and explained to them the cause of Tamaahmootoo's indisposi- 
 tion, which, by the assistance of a little warm water, was almost instantly 
 recovered, and he rejoined their party, to the great entertainment and 
 diversion of his countrymen, who were still very pleasantly regaling them- 
 selves, and in the perfect enjoyment of each other's society. 
 
 At one of their evening amusements the captain was very well enter- 
 tained. This was a performance by a single young woman of the name 
 of Puckoo, whose person and manners were both very agreeable. Her 
 dress, notwithstanding the heat of the weather, consisted of an immense 
 •quantity of thin cloth, which was wound round her waist, and extended 
 as low as her knees. This was plaited in such a manner as to give a 
 pretty effect to the variegated pattern of the cloth ; and was otherwise 
 disposed with great taste. Her head and neck were decorated with wreaths 
 of black, red, and yellow feathers ; but, excepting these, she wore no dress 
 from the waist upward. Her ancles, and nearly half-way up her legs, 
 were decorated with several folds of cloth, widening upward, so that the 
 upper parts extended from the leg at least four inches all round ; this was 
 encompassed by a piece of net-work, wrought very close, from the meshes 
 of which were hung the small teeth of dogs, giving this part of her dress 
 the appearance of an ornamental funnel. On her wrists she wore brace- 
 lets made of the tusks from the largest hogs. These were highly polished 
 and fixed close together in a ring, the concave sides of the tusks being 
 outward ; and their ends reduced to an uniform length, curving naturally 
 each way from the centre, were by no means destitute of ornamental effect. 
 Thus equipped, her appearance on the stage, before she uttered a single 
 word, excited considerable applause from the numerous spectators, who 
 observed the greatest good order and decorum. In her performance, 
 which was in the open air, she was accompanied by two men, who were 
 seated on the ground in the character of musicians. Their instruments 
 were both alike, and were made of the outsides or shells of large gourds, 
 open at the top ; the lower ends ground perfectly flat, and as thin as pos 
 
344 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 sible, without endangering their splitting. These were atruck an th« 
 ground, covered with a small quantity of dried grass, and in the interval 
 between each stroke tjiey beat with the hands and fingers on the sides 
 of these instruments, to accompany their vocal exertions, which, with the 
 various motions of their hands and body, and the vivacity of their coun- 
 tenances, plainly demonstrated the interest they had, not only in excelling 
 in their own parts, but also in the applause which the lady acquired by 
 her performance, advancing or retreating from the musicians a few short 
 steps in various directions, as the nature of the subject and the numerous 
 gestures and motions of her person demanded. Her speech, or poem, 
 was first began in a slow and somewhat solemn manner, and gradually 
 became energetic, probably as the subject matter became interesting ; 
 until at length, like a true actress, the liveliness of her imagination pro- 
 duced a vociferous oration, accompanied by violent emotions. These 
 were received with shouts of great applause ; and although they were not 
 sufficiently acquainted with the language to comprehend the subject, yet 
 they could not help being pleased in a high degree with the performance. 
 
 On the 25th of February Tamaahmaah, King of Owyhee, in council 
 with the principal chiefs of the island, assembled on board his Britannic 
 majesty's sloop Discovery, in Karakakooa Bay, and in the presence of 
 George Vancouver, commander of the said sloop. Lieutenant Peter Puget, 
 commander of his said majesty's armed tender the Chatham, and the other 
 officers of the Discovery, after due consideration, unanimously ceded the 
 Island of Owyhee to his Britannic majesty, and acknowledged themselves 
 to be subjects of Great Britain. 
 
 As their departure was now to take place with the first breeze from the 
 land, Tamaahmaah and his queen, unwiMing to take leave until the very 
 last moment, remained on board until near midnight, when they departed, 
 with hearts too full to express the sensations which the moment of separa- 
 tion produced in each ; with them their honest and j,udicious counsellors, 
 Young and Davis, returned to the shore. The good sense, moderation, 
 and propriety of conduct in these men, daily increased their own respecta- 
 bility, and augmented the esteem and regard not only of the king and all, 
 his friends, but even of those who were professedly adverse to the exist- 
 ing government, and who consequently were at first inimical to their 
 interest. As it was a great uncertainty whether the ships should or 
 should not return again to these islands, the captain had given these two 
 worthy characters their choice of taking their passage to their native 
 country, or of remaining on the island in the same situation which they 
 had so long filled with credit to themselves, and with so much satisfaction 
 to the king and the rest of the principal people. After mature considera- 
 tion, they preferred their present way of life, and were desirous of con- 
 tinuing at Owyhee ; observing, that, being destitute of resources, on 
 their return home they must be again exposed to the vicissitudes of a life 
 of hard labour, for the purpose of merely acquiring a precarious supply of 
 the most common necessaries of life, objects which, for some years past, 
 had not occasioned them the least concern. 
 
 Thus concluded their transactions at Owyhee, to which they bade 
 adieu about three in the morning of the 3d of March. They left here, 
 however, a banditti of renegadoes, that had quitted different trading ves- 
 sels in consequence of disputes with their respective commanders, who 
 had resorted to this island since the preceding year, under American or 
 Portuguese colours. Among them was one Portuguese, one Chinese, 
 and one Genoese, but all the rest appeared to be the subjects of Great 
 
a. VANCOUVER. 345 
 
 Britain, as spemed also the major part of ihe crew of the brig Washing- 
 ton, although they called themselves Americans. With Kavaheeroo also 
 resided a person by the name of Howell, who had come to Owyhee in 
 the capacity of a clerk on board the Washington ; he appeared to possess 
 a good understanding, with the advantages of an university education, 
 and had been once a clergyman in England, but had now secluded him- 
 self from European society, so that, with Young, Davis, and Boyd, there 
 were now eleven white men on the island ; but, excepting from these 
 latter, their Ovvyhean friends will have little reason to rejoice in any ad- 
 vantages they will receive from their new civilized companions. 
 
 After visiting some other parts of the Sandwich Islands, the ships finally 
 bade them adieu on the 15lh of March, from which period, till the end 
 of August, the whole time was occupied in a very extensive and minute 
 survey of the coast of North- West America. Suffice It to say, that one 
 great object of the voyage was, namely, to ascertain the existence of a 
 north-west passage, or any water communication navigable for shipping. 
 The North Pacific and the exterior of the American continent, within 
 these limits, were completely examined, and it was proved that no such 
 communication did exist, notwithstanding the assertions of Fuca, Fonte, 
 and others, on that subject. On the 2d of September the Dicovery an- 
 chored in Friendly Cove, Nootka Sound, where were three of his Catho- 
 lic majesty's armed vessels, and some English and American traders. 
 
 At Monterey they arrived on the 2d of November. Having on the 2d 
 of December quitted it, and proceeded southward, they passed the three 
 Marias Islands, and afterward the rich, but uninhabited, Island of Cocos. 
 Its produce is luxurious and abundant, as are also fowl and fish. They 
 afterward successively passed the Gallipagos Islands, Masafuero, and 
 Juan Fernandez. 
 
 On the 24th of March they gained a distant view of the lofty coast of 
 Chili to the westward, in latitude 32 degrees 53 minutes, and at a sup- 
 posed distance of forty leagues, the immense mountains of the Andes. 
 Their destination was, however, the Bay of Valparaiso, which they reached 
 next day. 
 
 St. Jago, the capital of Chili, is stated to have been founded on the 
 12th of February, 1541. This city is the residence of the president, who 
 is captain-general of the whole kingdom, and governor and presiding 
 judge of the audience-chamber or court of justice. It is said to contain 
 30,500 inhabitants. The subordinate cities in this great kingdom are 
 Coquimbo, Chilian, Conception, and Valdivia ; and the principal towns 
 are Valparaiso, Capiapo, Vallenar, St. Francisco de Boria, St. Raphael 
 de la Rosa, La Ligua, Quillota, Los Andes, Melipilla, St. Joseph, An- 
 concagua, St. Ferdinand, Curico, Talca, Linares, Nueva, Bilboa, Cau- 
 geres, and others of less importance. The kingdom of Chili is stated to 
 extend, in a northern and southern direction, from the uninhabited parts 
 of Atacama, which divides it from the vice-royalty of Peru, to the Straits 
 of Magellan; and, in a western and eastern direction, from the ocean to 
 the foot of the Cordilleras, which divides it from the vice-royalty of 
 Buenos Ayres. There is about a million of specie coined at St. Jago 
 every year, which is the fund from whence the salaries of the state offi- 
 cers, the military establishment, and other incidental expenses of the 
 government are defrayed. The army consists of a battalion of infantry in 
 Conception, two squadrons of horse, one company of dragoons, and two 
 of artillery. The cavalry are all well-mounted, and extremely expert 
 horsemen ; and were they as skilful in the use of fire-arms as they are ia 
 
346 troYAOES notrJifi the World. 
 
 the management of the sword and the lance, they would not be inferior 
 to any troops of this description in Europe. 
 
 The exterior commerce of the kingdom is principally carried on from 
 the seaports of Conception, Coquimbo, and Valparaiso ; but the latter 
 has the greatest share of trade, arising from its central situation and its 
 vicinity to the capital. The measured distance between St. Jawo and 
 Buenos Ayres they could not learn, but understood that the post travels 
 from thence to the capital of Chili in twenty days ; and that the country, 
 from Buenos Ayres until it reaches the foot of the Cordilleras, which run 
 in a northern and southern direction, and pass to the eastward of St. 
 Jago, is one entire desert, without trees or any other sort of vegetation, 
 and that it is so completely a level plain, that even a hillock does not ap-* 
 pear on its. surface. The nearest silver mine to St. Jago is at the dis- 
 tance of about seven leagues, and the nearest gold mine is to the north- 
 east df the city, at the distance of about thirty leagues. 
 
 The houses in Valparaiso, on account of the earthquakes which fre- 
 quently happen in South America, like those in St. Jago, consist of the 
 ground-floor only ; the walls are built with mud, and plastered over with 
 a preparation of Ume ; they aire convenient, well adapted to the climate, 
 and are in general handsomely furnished. In the town and in the village 
 of Almandrel there are six churches, within the diocess of the archbishop 
 of St. Jago, but under the direction of a vicar, who resides at Valparaiso, 
 and is amenable for his conduct to the archbishop. The town and its 
 neighbourhood are under the jurisdiction of the governor, who receives 
 his appointment, with a salary of 4000 dollars per annum, from the King 
 of Spain ; but he is nevertheless under the immediate orders and control 
 of the captain-general. All civil and military causes are heard at St. 
 Jago. Capital o^ences are seldom committed ; a man was found guilty 
 on a charge of felony, and hanged about three years before their arrival, 
 a punishment that was seldom known to he inflicted. 
 
 Nothing particular happened in the voyage round Cape Horn, and 
 thence to St. Helena, wbere the Discovery arrived on the 2d of July, the 
 Chatham having got thither before her. Here, in consequence of the 
 hostilities with Holland, Captain Vancouver took a Dutch East Indiaman,- 
 the Macassar. On the 12th of September made the western coast of 
 Ireland ; when, having seen the Discovery safely moored in the Shannon, 
 he proceeded to London, resigning the command of the ship to Lieutenant 
 Baker, and taking with him such books, papers, and charts, as were 
 necessary to lay before the lords of the admiralty, relative to the ser- 
 vices performed. In the course of this long voyage of four years eight 
 months and twenty-nine days, the Discovery lost by disease, out of one 
 hundred men, only one, and five by accidents ; and in the Chatham not 
 one died from disease or otherwise. 
 
 CAPTAIN ETIENNE MARCHAND.— 1790-92. 
 
 Captain Marchand, hearing of the success of some voyages to the 
 north-west coast of America for furs, by English adventurers, proposed 
 to tjie commercial house of Baux, in Marseilles, a similar expedition ; 
 which being agreed to, an effective ship, the Solide, of 300 tons, ten 
 guns, and fifty officers and seamen, was placed under his command, and 
 he sailed from Marseilles the 14th of December, 1790." January 15th, 
 anchored for three days in Port Praya, St. Jago, after which nothing of 
 
EtiENNE JIARCHANft. 347 
 
 any importance occurred till they saw Staten Land from the mast-head 
 the Ist of April, and by the 20th had sailed quite round Terra del 
 Fuego into the great South Sea, when they encountered the first heavy 
 storm so common in these regions. 
 
 Want of water compelled him to shape a course for the group of 
 islands called Marquesas, discovered by Mendana in 1595, and since 
 visited by Cook. June 12th, discovered them, the vicinity of land ha- 
 ving been indicated for some days before by flights of terns, sea-swallows, 
 and several other birds, which are known not to proceed far from the 
 shore. Steering for the Bay of Madre de Dios, they were met by many 
 natives in canoes and swimming, blowing conchs, singing, and beating 
 time on the sides of the canoes, at the same time pointing out where 
 water was to be procured. Several women at the same time dis- 
 played their charms, offering them by no unequivocal signs to the sea- 
 men. Before the Solide reached the bay, a flotilla of canoes surrounded 
 her, many having come even from the Island of Dominica. One of their 
 old men, after pronouncing a harangue, tied a piece of white cloth in 
 the rigging, understood to be the signal of peace, and crying out, Tayo ! 
 Tayo ! meaning friend. Toys were distributed freely among them, and 
 looking-glasses excited much admiration and astonishment. The crowd 
 soon mcreased so much, that it was no longer possible to work the ship • 
 but on being requested to retire, they complied in a very orderly manneii, 
 each seeming to seek his own island, though at considerable distances. 
 
 Early the next morning the ship was surrounded by above 300 natives, 
 all eager to go on board ; but in the meantime stripping oflF, with their 
 fingers alone, pieces of iron and copper, which it would have required 
 instruments and time for an European to remove. A gun was fired over 
 their heads ; but instead of intimidating, it only served to increase their 
 audacity ; a shot, which struck the rocks, had for a moment some little 
 effect, till, recovering their alarm, several threw sticks on board, and 
 struck their lances against the sides of the ship ; one snatched a musket 
 from one of the men protecting the boats, and others attempted to remove 
 the leaden pump from the stern ; a man of less humanity than Marchand 
 would probably have answered these hostile demonstrations as hostilely ; 
 but only firing two muskets sufficiently close for them to hear the balls 
 whiz over their heads, order was in some degree restored. Women and 
 young girls in hundreds flocked on board, anxious to dispose of their per- 
 sons for nails, beads, and other trinkets and implements ; and lest their 
 overtures should not be sufficiently understood, the men were eager to 
 become their interpreters. A blunderbuss of one of the watering party 
 going off, accidentally wounded a native by breaking a bone of the arm ; 
 this excited some fear among them, but no revenge ; the surgeon, Rob- 
 let, proceeding on shore to dress it, found the arm very skilfully managed, 
 so as to display no small share of surgical knowledge ; presents and 
 caresses were given to prevent any unfavourable impression from this 
 unfortunate occurrence. 
 
 In an excursion into the woods the same day, by the captain, one of 
 the natives snatched his musket and ran off ; but, in attempting to pursue 
 him, was immediately recalled by the danger of his servant, whom he 
 found seized by half a dozen islanders, who soon let go their hold, though 
 not without carrying away his hat and a box he had under his arm. By 
 the interference of a chief, however, the musket was restored the next 
 day. Several fruits and vegetable .refreshments were procured, with 
 abundance of water, but scarcely a hog or fowl ; for, though they did not 
 
348 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 teem scarce, the owners would not part with them. Marchand, there* 
 fore, set off in the boats for some other bays in the neighbourhood, and 
 at the second in his way procured twelve fine hogs, the natives civilly 
 carrying the individuals of the party on shore and on board again, on 
 account of a dangerous landing place. At another bay they were not 
 so successful in their pursuit, though received equally friendly ; several 
 petty thefts were committed, but on the whole the behaviour of the 
 natives was friendly in a marked degree. 
 
 Santa Christina, the only island of the group hitherto visited, is about 
 seven leagues in circumference, the land high and rocky, the latter seenv- • 
 ing of a volcanic nature, many portions of it barren, and, taken on the 
 whole, is infinitely less fruitful than either of the Society Islands ; so 
 that the people have by no means the superfluities of the Olaheiteans. 
 Bread fruit and cocoa nuts are here much more scarce. The sugar-cane 
 is, however, very fine 5 also a large species of chestnut. The islanders 
 well remembered the name of Captain Cook, who touched here ; but 
 not a single European article of any description was now observed among 
 them, and to almost all of them they seemed utter strangers. Rats are 
 excessively numerous, and destroy much of the food of the islanders ; 
 the hogs arc small, but sweet and well-tasted ; a variety of birds abound 
 in the woods, and enliven them with their songs ; rock-fish are in plenty 
 in the bay ; and the shark is little regarded by the islanders, who swim 
 about seemingly regardless of its fierce and ravenous attacks. 
 
 The people are confessedly the finest race in the South Sea for beauty 
 of person, the whole being very tall, well-formed, inclining to corpulency 
 without being so, their chests and shoulders broad, their limbs muscular, 
 and their activity on land or in water equally remarkable ; the common 
 height is about five feet ten inches, but great numbers exceed six 
 feet. Their colour is a bright brown, their hair of several shades, as 
 flaxen, auburn, black, either long or curling. The countenance is open 
 and frank, the nose being either flat or acquiline, the eyes large and black, 
 and the teeth regular. They are in general naked, except a piece of cloth, 
 made of the bark of a tree, tied round the loins for the sake of modesty ; 
 but tattooing is so general, and so well and neatly executed, that this 
 might almost be fancied a species of clothing of itself. The women are 
 equally remarkable for beauty of person ; their clothing is not much 
 more, but the tattooing considerably less than in the other sex ; in fact, 
 clothing is an encumbrance, as much of their time is spent in the water. 
 The licentiousness of the greater part is, however, shameless and disgust- 
 ing ; even children of eight years old were publicly prostituted. 
 
 Their weapons are lances, a sort of sabre, pikes or javehns, and clubs ; 
 their canoes are rude and ill formed, bearing no comparison to the ele- 
 gance of those of Otahcite. The houses are built on stone platforms 
 rai.sed from the ground, as if they were exposed to inundations from the 
 sea ; and likewise they use very curious stilts, apparently for the same 
 reason, on which they stalk about with great expedition. The scoop-net 
 and sweep-net constitute their fishing implements ; their hatchet is of a 
 hard species of stone ; their household utensils consist of calabashes and 
 various others, formed of wood ; and the great article of cloth is made 
 from the bark of the paper mulberry tree. 
 
 June 20ih, at midnight, quilted the anchorage of Santa Christina, and 
 next morning discovered high land in the north-west quarter, adjoining 
 which were several isles, upon which the officers and seamen conferred 
 the name of Isle Marchand. Some sandy bays were perceived, with a 
 
feTlENNE MARCHANi). 349 
 
 ffew rivulets of fine water running into them : a fev7 natives came on 
 board, some without hesitation, others with the strongest symptoms of 
 terror ; they spoke the same language, were of the same colour, and in 
 other respects differed little or nothing from those of Santa Christina, 
 this being merely an extension of the Marquesas group ; but they seem- 
 ed utterly unacquainted with their visiters, or with European commodi- 
 ties ; for among them all they preferred glass bottles to everything else. 
 Appearances of other islands were distinguished, one of which, to wind* 
 ward, he could not reach, but called it Baux's Island, after the owners of 
 his ship ; two others, not much elevated above the surface of the water, 
 were named the Two Brothers ; while two more received the appella- 
 tions of Masse's and Chanal's Islands, after the first and second officers 
 of the Solide. The cluster had given to it the general name of the Re- 
 volution Islands. Marchand's Isle is about ten or eleven leagues in cir- 
 cumference, Baux's about fifteen ; the former in 9 degrees 21 minutes 
 south latitude, 142 degrees 19 minutes west longitude ; the latter in 8 
 degrees 48 minutes south latitude, 142 degrees 31 minutes west longitude. 
 June 25th, lost sight of these islands, steering for the north-west coast 
 of America. Indications of land, such as birds, sea-weed, drift-wood 
 not long in the water, and obscurities in the horizon, which, however, 
 they had not time to examine, were perceived occasionally during the run to 
 the American coast, which was seen on the evening of the 7th of August, 
 near to Cape Engana, or Edgcombe. They anchored at Pitt's Island, in 
 Norfolk Sound, called by the natives Tchinkatanay, and next morning 
 about 140 men, women, and children, came round the ship singing, which, it 
 seems, is their usual practice on first becoming acquainted with strangers, 
 bringing some furs, which they seemed very well to know the value of 
 by the price demanded. In this traffic they have already acquired great 
 skill and finesse, showing off their articles to the best advantage, and 
 examining and detecting the faults of those given to them in return with 
 great minuteness. Woollen clothes were in the greatest request, many 
 of the natives being entirely clothed with them, of English manufacture : 
 they obstinately adhered to what they considered the value of their skins, 
 and even when the ship was preparing to depart would not reduce the 
 price ; one hundred otter-skins prime, two hundred and fifty cub otter- 
 skins, thirty-six whole bear-skins, fifteen half skins, thirty-seven seal- 
 skins, sixty bearer and racoon-skins, a bag of squirrel-skins, a carpet of 
 mountain rat-skins, and a quantity of otter-skins cut into slips and worn, 
 constituted their purchase here ; the latitude of the cove where the ship 
 lay was 57 degrees 4 minutes north, and longitude 137 degrees 59 minutes 
 west. Tchinkatanay Bay is well protected by high mountains on all 
 sides, their summits covered with snow which appears never to melt, and 
 their brows with wood which never comes under the axe. The sea-otter, 
 on which skin the Chinese place so much value, is about two feet ten 
 inches in length, the tail about twelve or thirteen inches ; the fur is ex- 
 tremely beautiful, and for a prime skin from sixty to ninety dollars are 
 sometimes given at Canton. Its beauty varies in some measure with 
 the season ; those killed in March, April, and May, being esteemed the 
 best ; black is the general colour, but there are many of a brownish hue ; 
 the weight of the body, which, though insipid, is eaten by the natives, is 
 from seventy to eighty pounds. The natives of this bay were rather 
 short in stature, their noses snubbed and sharp, their eyes small and sunk 
 in the head, their cheek-bones prominent, their faces round, their colour 
 teddish or of a light brown, but dirt and the admixture of various pig- 
 
 30 
 
350 VdlrAdsis iiotjfjt) tiIe W6itti). 
 
 ments render it difficult to determine precisely what their natural huo is. 
 Their favourite weapon is a metal dagger, fifteen or sixteen inches long, 
 in which they take no little pride, keeping it always in the highest polish. 
 They take two meals a day, about noon and in the evening, before which 
 periods they regularly left the ship to be on shore in good time. They 
 treat the women with attention, not giving them the laborious work which 
 is imposed by some other tribes on the coast of North-West America ; 
 and the men likewise seem to feel pleasure in nursing their offspring, 
 which is not often the case among savages. The women are reserved 
 and modest ; and the men, as may be supposed from this circumstance) 
 rather jealous, forming a remarkable contrast to the people of the South 
 Sea Islands, and showing the superiority in moral feeling of the people 
 of a cold or temperate to those of a tropical climate, both being equally 
 savages, and, of course, ignorant of the decencies of civilized life. Their 
 language is excessively harsh and uncouth, requiring at once a strong 
 nasal aspiration and a guttural effort ; it seems, however, from what 
 could be collected, that it is copious and varied, from the nicety with 
 which the most minute parts of an animal, or other trivial things, were 
 called and described. 
 
 Marchand quitted this place the 21st of August for Queen Charlotte's 
 Islands, and distinguished Cloak Bay, where he anchored ; tvpt found few 
 skins, a vessel having been there recently, which had carried them all off. 
 A chief invited them to visit his habitation, forming a parallelogram, iroin. 
 forty-five to fifty feet in front by thirty-five in depth. Six, eight, or ten 
 trees, cut and planted in each front, form the enclosure of a habitation, and 
 are fastened to each other by planks ten inches in width ; the partitions, six 
 or seven feet high, are surmounted by a roof a little sloped ; in the middle 
 of the roof is made a large square opening, affording at once entrance to 
 the light and an exit to the smoke ; there are also sometimes a few small 
 openings in the sides. These houses have two stories, though only one 
 visible, the lower one being in fact under ground^ the descent to which 
 is by half a dozen of steps, and here they reside during the winter. To 
 one of the boats despatched to trade came a chief and several of his 
 tribe, who, though possessed of several skins, seemed disinchned to part 
 with them, except at a high price, repeating frequently the name of Eng' 
 lishmen, as if they would give more than their present visiters. The 
 arms supplied by them were in general so bad, that one discharge with a 
 ball or shot v/ould probably have burst them. At length, when the boats 
 seemed prepared to depart, the natives, who had hitherto held out for 
 fire-arms, or blankets and woollen clothing, were wilUng to accept less 
 valuable articles, such as boilers, pewter basins, pots, kettles, and a variety 
 of other things of a similar nature. 
 
 While they were quitting the place, a brig, about 200 tons burthenj 
 with a tender along with her, hove in sight ; but showing no colours anri 
 Marchand not wishing to speak with any stranger, no intercourse took 
 place between them ; but, from the accounts of the natives, they turned 
 out to be English. Fish, particularly of the shell kind, are numerous 
 here ; water also is plentiful, and of excellent quahty ; seals sport about 
 in the bay ; whales appear off its mouth ; birds are very numerous ; but 
 the only quadruped observed was the dog. The natives are very fond 
 of gambling, by means of thirty small sticks variously disposed ; their 
 women were modest, any intercourse that took place with the seamen 
 being entirely from interested motives, and evidently not from constitu- 
 tional incitements. Another boat was now despatched down to Rennell's 
 
iJTlfiMNE Marchand. 351 
 
 Strait, to try for furs there, their success hitherto being much inferior to 
 their expectations ; a good harbour was called after the second officer, 
 Chanal's Harbour ; but, after a fatiguing excursion for several days, very 
 few skins could be procured. The Solfde's course was now directed to 
 Berkeley's Sound, in latitude 49 degrees, most other spots seeming to 
 have been already stripped of their commodities by English rivals. 
 
 September 4th, got sight of the land in this neighbourhood, and the 
 next evening anchored ; on the morning of the 7th they sa\V five canoes 
 approaching them, with six or seven men in each, who, having no skins 
 themselves, directed the ship to proceed in a direction they pointed out, 
 where several were to be procured. These people were fairer than those 
 on that part of the coast they had left ; and their canoes, besides being 
 larger, were constructed in a very superior manner. Standing in to 
 Berkeley's Sound the day afterward, Marchand perceived a three-masted 
 Vessel coming Out, when, finding himself anticipated here as well as to 
 the northward, and the stranger also standing to the southward, whither 
 he intended to go, he thought farther competition would not turn out 
 successful, and that the only chance of making the voyage profitable was 
 to proceed at once to China, and sell his skins before there was any com- 
 petition in the market. The officers agreeing in the propriety of this 
 resolution, they set sail for the Sandwich Islands, in order to take in 
 refreshments for the remainder of the voyage. 
 
 October 4th, made Owyhee, the chief of the group. Dreading the 
 character for enterprise and courage acquired by these islanders, Mar- 
 chand thought it the most expeditious and safest plan to purchase his 
 refreshments under sail, with which he was liberally supplied for iron and 
 other wares ; but among the cargoes of hogs brought off' were intermixed 
 many women, whom, however, the Solide's crew very wisely declined to 
 admit on board. The famous mountain Mowna Roa, in Owyhee, was per- 
 ceived by the Solide about forty-six leagues distant from the island and more 
 than fifty from its summit, and is computed to be from 15,600 to ]6,02Q 
 feet high, being the highest mountain on the globe, except Himmaleh 
 and CimboraKO. The mountain of Mowee is nearly half this height ; 
 Atooi is also much elevated, being distinguished thirty leagues off. Ori 
 the 7th quitted the Sandwich Islands for the run across the Pacific 
 Ocean ; and on the 3d of November made the Island of Tinian, between 
 which and Saypan he intended to pass to clear the archipelago, but 
 ultimately ran to the northward of Saypan ; this cluster, though called 
 by Magellan, their discoverer, Ladrone (or Thieves') Islands, arc also 
 known now by the name of Mary Ann Islands. On the 17th of Novem- 
 ber saw the Islands of Botel Tobago Xima, situated at the south end of 
 Formosa ; and three days afterward found the ship in the midst of a 
 fleet of Chinese fishing-boats, the owner of one of which, for seventy 
 dollars, promised to pilot them to Macao, in the road of which the anchof 
 was dropped on the 25th. On comparing dates, it appeared they had lost 
 a day by sailing round the world by the west, and, instead of the 26th, 
 was obliged, next day, to write Sunday, the 27th. 
 
 Here the speculation of the voyage turned out truly unfortunate, the 
 sale of skins being prohibited in consequence, as it was supposed, of a 
 new treaty of commerce with Russia, by Which the furs of the latter were 
 to have a preference. Two vessels were already here with cargoes of 
 these articles, which could not be sold ; Marchand therefore determined 
 to proceed at once to the Isle of France ; had there been even permission 
 to dispose of the lading, the price of prime otter-skins had fallen from 
 
333 VOYAGES HOUND THE WORLD. 
 
 sixty to fifteen dollars the preceding year. While here an Americall 
 vessel came in, the captain of which had been at the Marquesas a month 
 before Marchand, but without landing ; and who afterward, in proceeding 
 to the north-west, had observed in May that group which, next month, 
 Marchand examined and called Revolution Islands. He therefore was 
 anticipated in the discovery without knowing it : but the American had 
 made no effort to have any intercourse with the natives, or to examine 
 the new lands. 
 
 December 6th, quitted Macao, and directed the course so as to strike 
 the bank of the Macclesfield shoal by sounding, in the middle of the China 
 sea ; on the llth saw the Island of Pulo Sapata, and four days afterward 
 that of Pulo Timoan, Pulo Pisang, and several others connected with the 
 latter, which form high land, distinguishable at a considerable distance. 
 The 18th, distinguished the Island of Banca, and passed through Caspar's 
 Straits with safety, though then httle known to French navigators, except 
 by name ; a week afterward got sight of the coast of the great Island of 
 Sumatra, and, passing tliroughthe Straits of Sunda, made sail for the Isle 
 of France ; firat seeing, however, the Cocos Islands, in 1 1 degrees 54 
 minutes south latitude, a small group thrown 165 leagues to the south- 
 west of Flat Pouit, the most southern of Sumatra. After making Rodri- 
 guez Island, situated 100 leagues directly to windward of the Isle of 
 France, the Solide reached the latter the 30th of January, anchoring in 
 Port Louis, or Port North- West, the principal harbour of that island, after 
 being thirteen months and a half, with the exception of thirty days, con- 
 stantly under sail. 
 
 At this place they remained till the 18th of April, when, getting under 
 weigh, the Solide reached St. Denis, in the Island of Reunion, or Bour- 
 bon, situated ninety miles to leeward of the former, remarkable for 
 producing fine coffee and cotton. May 1 6th, passed Cape Aiguillas, in 
 Southern Africa, steering for the Island of St. Helena, at which Marchand 
 cast anchor the 4th of June. This land is sufficiently high to be discerned 
 in clear weather at the distance of twenty leagues. It presents at first 
 sight nothing but a heap of craggy rocks, with here and there valleys be- 
 tween. On Sugar-loaf Point is seen a small fort, past which it is necessary 
 to proceed, on which is this warning to ships coming in — " Send the ship's 
 boat on shore " — which, if neglected, the fort will sometimes fire at the 
 offender. 
 
 James Town, the only one in the island,. and situated in a valley of 
 the same name, is commanded by two hills on each side and above it, that 
 on the right being Rupert's, and that on the left Ladder Hill. Several 
 batteries and redoubts scattered in every practicable place, M'ith the steep- 
 ness of the shores, and the difficulty, or, indeed, impossibility, of ascend- 
 ing the rocks, render landing by an enemy utterly impracticable. The 
 island is therefore impregnable, for the battery of Ladder Hill alone would 
 sink any vessel in the roads, or destroy any boats that attempted a dis- 
 embarcation. All vessels that require more than twenty casks of water 
 pay anchorage dues, amounting to twenty dollars, or five pounds ; foreign- 
 ers are not charged higher than the English Indiamen. In 1791 and 
 1 792 a great drought afflicted the island, which caused extreme loss and 
 distress. In 1789 were reckoned here 3000 head of cattle, besides con- 
 siderable numbers of sheep, goats, and poultry, and suppUes of potatoes 
 and other vegetables ; but the drought of the succeeding years destroyed 
 more than half of the live stock. 
 
 The island is situated in the Atlantic Ocean, 300 leagues from Cap© 
 
MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 353 
 
 Negro, the nearest point of Africa, and 600 from Cape Augustine, in 
 South America ; it is about twenty-eight miles in circumference, and 
 seems only the calcined summit of an isolated mountain of very great 
 height from its base in the ocean, as the sea, at a little distance from its 
 shores, is unfathomable ; nor is there any land nearer to it than 700 miles. 
 The population at this time consisted of 2000 whites, about 600 soldiers, 
 and the same number of slaves. 
 
 On the 20th of June crossed the line in 25 degrees west longitude from 
 Paris, and on the 2d of August saw the land of Europe, near to Cape 
 St. Vincent ; on the 14th anchored in the inner harbour of Toulon, after 
 an absence of twenty months, being the shortest voyage round the world 
 yet etfected. 
 
 MISSIONARY VOYAGE.— 1796-98. 
 
 [The following voyage, though not strictly round the world, is so connected 
 with our subject — and besides so novel in its design, and so truly benevolent 
 and Christian-like in its object — that we cannot withhold it from our readers ; 
 particularly as a more general knowledge of its details must highly interest a 
 community so eminently Christian as our nation, and perhaps add to the funds 
 of a society, in every point of view, so deserving of support and respect.] 
 
 The discoveries made in the great southern sea by the voyages under- 
 taken at the command of his majesty, George the Third, excited wonderful 
 attention, and brought, as it were, into light a world till then almost un- 
 known. Islands, it may be said, innumerable were found to cover the 
 bosom of the Pacific Ocean in difierent groups. The merchant considered 
 if they would afford any object of commerce ; the naturalist eagerly ex- 
 plored the peculiar subject of his researches, and the astronomer sought 
 a station from whence he might observe the transit of Venus over the 
 sun, and deduce from thence useful improvement in the celestial science. 
 Reflections on their unhappy situation had dropped from the pen of the 
 humane, and pity had often swelled the bosom of the compassionate : a 
 few felt for them, not only as men, but as Christians, and wished some 
 mode could be devised of communicating to them the knowledge of that 
 inestimable book, compared with which all besides is pompous ignorance, 
 and all the treasures of the earth lighter on the balance than vanity itself. 
 A Missionary Society was in consequence formed in England, and zea- 
 lously seconded by their brethren in North Britain. 
 
 On notifying their intentions to the public, they met a spirit of zeal and 
 liberality highly encouraging ; applications manifold were poured in of 
 candidates for the mission, with subscriptions adequate to the undertaking. 
 None but men the most select for piety were to be admitted ; but especial- 
 ly adepts in such useful arts and occupations as would make them most 
 acceptable to the heathen in that state of inferior civilization to which 
 they were advanced. Thirty men, six women, and three children, were 
 approved, and presented to the directors for the commencement of tho 
 mission. 
 
 List of the Missionaries who embarked on hoard the Duff, at Blachoall 
 
 NO. NAMES. AGE. OCCUPATIONS. 
 
 1 Rev. James Fleet Cover, . 34 Ordained "Minister. 
 
 3 John Eyre, . . 28 Do. Do. 
 
 3 John Jefferson, . . 36 Do. Dq. 
 
354 
 
 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 NO. . NAMES. 
 
 4 Rev. Thomas Lewis, 
 
 5 
 6 
 7 
 8 
 9 
 10 
 11 
 12 
 13 
 14 
 15 
 16 
 17 
 -18 
 19 
 20 
 21 
 22 
 23 
 24 
 25 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 30 
 
 Mr. 
 
 Henry Bicknell, 
 
 • Daniel Bowell, . 
 Benj. Broomhall, 
 John Buchanan, . 
 James Cooper, 
 
 • John Cock, 
 
 ■ William Crook, 
 
 ■ Samuel Clode, , 
 John A. Gillhara, 
 Peter Hodges, . 
 
 • William Henry, 
 John Harris, . 
 Hudden, . 
 Samuel Harper, 
 Rowland Hassell, 
 Seth Kelso, . 
 Edward Main, . 
 Isaac Nobbs, 
 Henry Nort, 
 Francis Oakes, 
 James Puckey, . 
 William Puckey, 
 William Smith, . 
 William Shelly, 
 George Veeson, . 
 James Wilkinson, 
 
 81 Mrs. Mary Cover, 
 
 32 Elizabeth Eyre, 
 
 33 Elizabeth Hassell, 
 
 34 Sarah Henry, . 
 
 35 Mary Hodges, 
 
 36 Hudden, . 
 
 37 James Cover, 
 
 38 Thomas Hassell, 
 
 39 Samuel Otoo Hassell, . 
 
 AGE. OCCUPATIONS. 
 
 . 31 Ordained, and has attended the 
 
 hospitals and dispensaries, and 
 
 understands printing. 
 
 29 J House-carpenter, sawyer, and 
 
 . 22 Shopkeeper. [wheelwright. 
 
 20 Buckle and harness-maker. 
 . 31 Tailor. 
 
 28 Shoemaker. 
 
 . 23 Carpenter. [worker. 
 
 21 Gentleman's servent, and since tin- 
 . 35 Whitesmith and gardener. 
 
 22 Surgeon. 
 
 , 29 Smith and brazier. ■ 
 
 23 Carpenter and joiner. 
 39 Cooper. 
 
 . — Butcher. 
 
 26 Cotton manufacturer. 
 . 27 Indian weaver. 
 
 48 Weaver. 
 . 24 Tailor, (late of the Royal Artillery.) 
 
 24 Hatter. 
 
 . 22 Bricklayer. 
 
 25 Shoemaker. 
 . 25 Carpenter. 
 
 20 Carpenter. 
 
 . 21 Linen-draper. 
 
 21 Cabinet-maker. 
 , 24 Bricklayer. 
 
 27 Carpenter and joiner. 
 
 WOMEN. 
 
 . 37 Wife of J. F. Cover. 
 
 64 John Eyre. 
 
 . 29 Rowland Hassell. 
 
 23 William Henry. 
 
 . 25 P. Hodges. 
 
 • Hudden. 
 
 CHILDREN. 
 
 . 12 Son of J. F. Cover. 
 
 2 Rowland Hassell. 
 
 16 weeks. Do. 
 
 Captain Wilson and the first mate, his nephew, were persons in every 
 view equal to the undertaking, and as hearty in the work as the missiona- 
 ries themselves. Many of the sailors were men of a like mind ; about 
 half were communicants, and every man was eager to beg admittance, 
 under the profession of wishing to be instrumental in so blessed a service, 
 and the hope that he should gain benefit and edification to his own soul. 
 
 The preparations being completed, and the missionaries ready for em- 
 barcation, the directors of the society were very anxious for the Duflf's 
 sailing with the East India convoy. They now took their final departure 
 from Portsmouth, and launched forth on the great deep the 24th of 
 September, 1796. The signal for sailing being given, the missionaries 
 came on deck, and every countenance seemed elated with joy at the 
 thought of soon being employed in the great work. 
 
MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 355 
 
 Proceeding fast to the southward, on the 13th of October, about nine, 
 A. M., they saw Sal, which is the northernmost of the Cape de Verde 
 Isles ; it has a sun-burnt appearance, insomuch that, as they sailed along 
 to the eastward, about three miles off shore, there was not a tree or green 
 spot to be seen. With pleasant weather, all sails set, and a fine fair 
 wind, by eleven, A. M., could discern St. Jago off the deck. At one, 
 P. M., passed the south-east point, and half an hour after tacked close to 
 Green Island ; then made two short tacks, and came-to with the small 
 bower in eight fathoms. 
 
 18th. Having completed their refreshments here, and afresh taken their 
 departure, at a Uttle distance off the island a fine breeze sprang up, and 
 continued from east-south-east to east-north-east. 22d, a number of 
 sharks were playing round the ship ; they caught two, each about five 
 feet long ; after being cut into pieces, and the entrails taken out, the 
 heads jumped about the deck for a considerable time. 12th of November, 
 at daylight, made sail and ran for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro ; but the 
 breeze failing, and the tide contrary, it was one o'clock in the afternoon 
 before they reached the entrance. When nearly there, a pilot-boat came 
 alongside, in which was the head harbour-master, who took charge of 
 the ship. 
 
 Quitting this place, they now proceeded on their voyage, in hopes of 
 effecting i,t by the way of Cape Horn, which was their original intention. 
 The captain had laid in a fresh store of such provisions as this place 
 afforded, with sugar, wine, and whatever might be necessary in the long 
 run before them. 20th. Lord's day. Brothers Eyre and Jefferson 
 preached. In leaving this harbour, and again launching into the deep, 
 they thought on all the mercies of God, who had dealt so wonderfully with 
 them, and protected them hitherto in safety through the pathless ocean ; 
 they could, with humble dependence, trust him for the future. 
 
 During the first few days nothing remarkable occurred. December 3d. 
 In the morning the sea ran exceedingly high, and the wind blew a com- 
 plete storm, which reduced them to a close-reefed main-topsail and fore- 
 sail. Several of their live stock died, either by the cold or the spray of 
 the sea, so that they were in danger of losing the whole of this invaluable 
 preservative of health. Not only the greater part of the missionaries 
 were sea-sick, but some of the seamen also. Mrs. Eyre, already ex- 
 hausted by continued illness, seemed unable long to sustain these greater 
 trials. Being thus situated, the captain was apprehensive that, in per- 
 severing in their endeavours to double Cape Horn, their raw, unseasoned 
 company of landmen, women, and children, might fall victims to the re- 
 peated storms and colder weather, which they might expect to meet with 
 in the attempt. Therefore, the captain, after deliberately weighing the cir- 
 cumstances, relinquished a plan which, to execute, required a ship's crew 
 of hardy sailors, unaccompanied by tender women and children, and adopt- 
 ed the resolution of going the eastern passage ; that is, to pass a few 
 degrees south of the Cape of Good Hope, to sail to the southward of the 
 south capes of New Holland and New Zealand, keeping in the track of 
 the westerly winds till near the meridian of Otaheite, and then to steer 
 to the northward for that island. The missionaries were now applying 
 themselves to the Otaheitean language, the most diligent giving pleasing 
 proofs of their desire and aptness to acquire it. A part of each day was 
 also appropriated to reading the Rev. Mr. Greathead's account of the 
 South Sea Islands ; this they styled Missionary Geography, from thence 
 deriving consKJerable knowledge ; their minds also became moreexercisedi 
 
356 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 and a difference of opinion gradually increased concerning the propriety 
 of their separating, and which group appeared the most eUgible and safe 
 to settle in ; some preferred the Friendly Isles, and others Otaheite. 
 John Harris alone was for the Marquesas ; he had long ago made that 
 choice, and still remained unshaken in his resolution, desiring only to 
 have one or two to accompany him, -and for that purpose was now using his 
 interest with the young men, few of whom as yet seemed inclined to settle 
 at the Marquesas. In consequence of the probability of such a separa- 
 tion taking place, a meeting of the whole body of missionaries was held, 
 when, after a long conversation, it was moved, '* That eight persons and 
 the chairman (the captain) be chosen to draw up a code of church govern- 
 ment for the future conduct of their little society, together with ceriaia 
 religious principles, to be signed by every individual." 
 
 February 21st. Ninety-seven days had now passed since they left Rio 
 Janeiro, and, except one vessel met with a week after their <leparture, 
 they had not, in all this time, seen either ship or shore, and had sailed, 
 by log, 13,820 miles, a greater distance probably than was ever before 
 run without touching at any place for refreshment or seeing land. About 
 seven in the morning Toobonai was discovered from the fore-yard by one 
 of the seamen, bearing south-east by east, eight or nine leagues off, show- 
 ing at this distance like two separate islands. This island was discovered 
 by Captain Cook in the year 1777 ; and upon it the unhappy Fletcher 
 Christian, with his companions, the mutineers of the Bounty, attempted 
 a settlement in 1789. Having frequently discussed the subject of the 
 separation of the brethren among the three groups of islands, the Mar- 
 quesas, the Society, and Friendly Islands ; February 27th, being the day 
 appointed, the society met, and the business of the day was opened in the 
 usual manner, when there appeared for each group as in the following list : 
 
 Otaheite. — Reverends J. F. Cover, John Eyre, John Jefferson, Thomas 
 Lewis ; Messrs. H. Bicknell, B. Broomhall, J. Cock, S. Clode, J. A. 
 Gillham, William Henry, P. Hodges, R. Hassell, E. Main, H. Nort, F. 
 Oakes, J. Puckey, William Puckey, William Smith ; which, with five 
 women and two children, make in all twenty-five for Otaheite. 
 
 Tongatahoo. — Messrs. D. Bowell, J. Buchanan, J. Cooper, S. Harper, 
 S. Kelso, I. Nobbs, W. Shelly, G. Veeson, J. Wilkinson, — Gaulton, 
 (a probationer.) 
 
 Santa Christina. — Messrs. J. Harris, W. Crook. 
 
 Nothing material occurred till Saturday morning, March 4th, when they 
 beheld the long wished-for island of Otaheite, but at a great distance. 
 The morning (Sunday) was pleasant, and, with a gentle breeze, they had 
 by seven o'clock got abreast of the district of Atahourou, whence they 
 saw several canoes putting off and paddling toward them with great speed ; 
 at the same time it fell calm, which being in their favour, they soon 
 counted seventy- four canoes, many of them double ones, containing about 
 twenty persons each. Being so numerous, they endeavoured to keep 
 them from crowding on board ; but, in spite of all efforts to prevent it, 
 there were soon not less than 100 of them dancing and capering like 
 frantic persons about the decks, crying, " Tayo, Tayo !" and a few broken 
 sentences of English were often repeated. They had no weapons of any 
 kind among them ; however, to keep them in awe, some of the great 
 guns were ordered to be hoisted out of the hold, while they, as free from 
 the apprehension as the intention of mischief, cheerfully assisted to put 
 them on their carriages. When the first ceremonies were over, the mis- 
 sionaries began to view their new friends with an eye of inquiry ; their 
 
MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 357 
 
 wild disorderly behaviour, strong smell of the cocoa nut oil, together with 
 the tricks of the arreoies, lessened the favourable opinion they had formed 
 of them ; neither could they see aught of that elegance and beauty in 
 their women for which they have been so greatly celebrated. This at 
 first seemed to depreciate them in the estimation of the brethren ; but 
 the cheerfulness, good nature, and generosity of these kind people soon 
 removed the momentary prejudices. One very old man, Manne Manne, 
 who called himself a priest of the eatooa, was very importunate to be 
 tayo with the captain ; others, pretending to be chiefs, singled out such 
 as had the appearance of officers for their tayos ; but as they neither ex- 
 ercised authority over the unruly, nor bore the smallest mark of distinc- 
 tion, they thought proper to dechne their proposals till they knew them 
 and the nature of the engagement better. At this they seemed astonished, 
 but still more when they saw their indifference about the hogs, fowls, and 
 fruit, which they had brought in abundance. The brethren endeavoured 
 to make them understand, that this was the day of eatooa, and that in it 
 they durst not trade ; but their women repulsed, occasioned greater won- 
 der. They continued about the decks till the transports of their joy 
 gradually subsided, when many of them left of their own accord, and 
 others were driven away by the old man and one named .Mauroa, who 
 novy exercised a little authority. Those who remained were chiefly ar- 
 reoies from Ulietea, in number about forty ; and being brought to order, 
 the brethren proposed having divine service upon the quarter-deck. Mr. 
 Cover officiated ; he, perhaps, was the first that ever mentioned with 
 reverence the Saviour's name to these poor heathens. Such hymns were 
 selected as had the most harmonious tunes ; first, " O'er the gloomy hills of 
 darkness ;" then, •' Blow ye the trumpet, blow ;" and, at the conclusion, 
 " Praise God, from whom all blessings flow." The text was from the 
 first Epistle general of John, chap. lii. ver. 23. *' God is love." The 
 whole service lasted about an hour and a quarter. During sermon and 
 prayer the natives were quiet and thoughtful ; but when the singing struck 
 up, they seemed charmed and filled with amazement ; sometimes they 
 would talk and laugh, but a nod of the head brought them to order. 
 Upon the whole, their unweariness and quietness were astonishing ; 
 and, indeed, all who heard observed a peculiar solemnity and excellence 
 in Mr. Cover's address on that day. 
 
 They had hitherto received very unsatisfactory answers to their inqui- 
 ries after the Matilda's crew ; but at last saw two of them coming in a 
 canoe : these were Swedes, dressed in the teboota and maro as the na- 
 tives, and tattooed also about the legs and arms : having got on board, 
 they were called into the cabin, and gave the following account of them- 
 selves : — The youngest, named Andrew Cornelius Lind, about thirty 
 years of age, a native of Stockholm, said, that after the loss of the Ma- 
 tilda they took to their boats, and bearing down toward Otaheite, landed 
 on the 6th of March, 1792, on the south side of the island ; they were 
 immediately plundered of all they had, but afterward treated kindly by 
 the natives. Since then the captain and most of the crew had gone 
 homeward by different methods ; six of them decked one of their boats, 
 and set off toward New Holland ; but it was improbable they would ever 
 reach thither. The other, whose name is Peter Haggerstein, aged forty, 
 a native of Elsinfors in Swedish Fmland, was left here by Captain New 
 of the Dsdalus. They both spoke tolerably good English, and being 
 well acquainted with the Otaheitean tongue, the brethren entertained a 
 hope that they would prove of great service. 
 
358 VOYAGES ROUND .THE WORLD. 
 
 Almost the whole afternoon it rained hard, till near four o'clock, when 
 they had some intervals of fair weather ; then the captain, Manne Manne, 
 the two Swedes, with brothers Cover, Henry, and a few more of the mis- 
 sionaries, went on shore, in order to examine a large house standing on 
 the extremity of Point Venus. They called it E Fwharre no pritane, 
 (the British house,) and said it had been built by Pomarrey for Captain 
 Bligh, who had said he should come back and reside there. It is a large and 
 spacious building, of an oblong figure, one hundred and eight feet long and 
 forty-eight wide. About three feet within the sides stand pillars all round, 
 about nine feet long, and six feet distant from each other. About one foot 
 from these pillars, on the outside, runs a screen of bamboo all round, 
 except about twenty feet in the middle on both sides. The chief of the 
 district (an old man named Pyteah) welcomed them to the island, said 
 that the house was theirs, and should be cleared for their reception the 
 next day. Manne Manne, the aged high priest, had brought five of his 
 wives with him on board, not one of whom exceeded fifteen years of age, 
 and desired he might sleep in the cabin ; and, according to the custom 
 of the country, very cordially desired Captain Wilson, his tayo, to take 
 his choice, and could hardly persuade himself hs was serious in declining 
 the offer ; nor failed the next morning to inquire of them which he had 
 chosen. 
 
 The rain prevented the missionaries landing till near eleven in the 
 forenoon ; when the captain, Mr. JeflTerson, (president,) with a few more 
 of the missionaries, went on shore, accompanied by Manne Manne and 
 Peter. The natives had assembled upon the beach to the number of 4 
 or 500 ; and as the boat approached some ran into the water, and laying 
 hold of her hauled her aground, then took the captain and missionaries 
 on their backs, and carried them dry on shore. • They were received by 
 the young king (Otoo) and his wife Tetua, both carried on men's shoul- 
 ders. The captain now informed the king, through Peter as interpreter, 
 that their only inducement for leaving Pretane to come and visit them 
 was to do them good, by instructing them in the best and most useful 
 things ; and for this end some good men intended to settle among them ; 
 requiring, on their part, the free gift of a piece of land sufficiently stock- 
 ed with bread fruit and cocoa nut trees, and so large as to contain a gar- 
 den and admit of houses being built upon it ; that this land should be their 
 own ; that they would not, on any account, intermeddle in their wars, nor 
 employ their arms but for self-defence ; and at all times should live free 
 and unmolested among them ; to which, if he consented, they would stay 
 ou the island ; if not, they would go elsewhere. Much pains were taken 
 to make this plain ; but as Otoo appeared to be a vacant-looking person, 
 they doubted whether he understood the half of it, though he signified 
 the large house was their own, and they might take what land they pleased. 
 
 After dinner Otoo and his wife came off, each in a small canoe, with 
 only one man paddling ; while they went several times round the ship, 
 the queen was frequently bailing her canoe with a cocoa nut shell. He 
 appears tall and well made, about seventeen ; his queen handsome and 
 finely proportioned, about the same age, and always carried about, on 
 shore, on men's shoulders. The king appears thoughtful, speaks little, 
 but surveys things with attention. 
 
 8th. It rained hard all the morning till about nine o'clock, when it 
 cleared up, and the missionaries went on shore with their chests and 
 beds, and took possession ef their house. The first thing with the house 
 was to close it quite round with the thicker sort of bamboO;«fixing a door 
 
MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 359 
 
 on each side, and by that means to keep the natives from crowding them. 
 The several berths or apartments were next planned, and partitions of 
 smaller bamboo begun ; but, in consequence of the great distance the 
 natives had to go up the valley for these bamboos, the work went very 
 slowly on, though one man stripped his own house to supply them. 10th. 
 The captain landed for the purpose of presenting some showy dresses 
 to the young king and his wife. They met him at the beach as usual ; 
 Peter informed him of what was intended, and, showing him the box 
 which contained the treasure, desired Otoo to walk toward his house, a 
 temporary shed they had erected for the purpose of being near our peo- 
 ple. This was complied with ; and when they came near, the captain, 
 stopping under a tree, ordered them to form a ring, and placing the box 
 in the midst, Otoo was requested to alight, that the brethrerj might dress 
 him ; he replied, by and by, and gazed sullenly for a considerable time, 
 till the patience of the captain was pretty well exhausted; repeat- 
 ing the request and receiving no answer, they opened the box, and on 
 taking out the dress for the queen, she instantly alighted from the man's 
 shoulder, and Otoo followed her example. The fancy cap fitted her 
 exceedingly well, and she seemed very proud of it, but it was only by 
 unripping that the other articles could be put upon her or Otoo. The 
 captain told him that the earees of Pretane thought he was not yet so 
 stout a man. Dressed complete in this gaudy attire, the surrounding 
 crowd gazed upon them with admiration. She, true to the foibles of 
 her sex, appeared delighted ; but Otoo thought little of them, saying, an 
 axe, a musket, a knife, or a pair of scissors, were more valuable, which 
 was saying more for himself than they expected, or that he had even 
 sense to do. After dinner, next day, the pinnace was manned for the 
 women and children, and, by the captain's desire, Mr. Wilson accom- 
 panied them on shore. Vast numbers of the natives crowded to the 
 beach to gratify their curiosity, all behaving with great respect and very 
 peaceable. Otoo and his wife kept for a while at a little distance, seem- 
 ing in doubt whether he should approach the women ; but thinking it 
 proper to salute him, he was a little encouraged. The house was sur- 
 rounded all the afternoon by the natives, who were much delighted with the 
 two children, and sent often for them and the two women to show them- 
 selves at the door. In the dusk of the evening they all retired ; and 
 this, the brethren remark, they had uniformly done since they first landed. 
 
 Before the Otaheiteans departed they were informed no work would 
 be done the next day ; and they asked if it would be more devoted to 
 prayer than the other days, and were told it would. The Sunday passed 
 very quietly, not one canoe coming near the ship, and on shore no inter- 
 ruption was attempted, the natives, the king and queen, attending, and 
 conducting themselves in peace and good order. 
 
 About four in the afternoon Pomariey and his wife Iddeah, having just 
 arrived from Tiarrabou, paid their first visit at the ship ; besides his usual 
 attendants a number of others had put themselves in his train. When 
 alongside he refused to come farther till the captain showed himself; 
 this being done, he immediately ascended the side, and coming on to the 
 quarter-deck, wrapped four pieces of cloth round the captain as his own 
 present ; then taking that off, repeated the operation with the like quan- 
 tity in the name of Iddeah. The first ceremonies over, he told the cap- 
 tain that he would send provisions and whatever they had occasion for 
 while they staid at Otaheite. When seated in the cabin, he expressed 
 Ills regard for the English and called King George his friend. On this 
 
860 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 the interpreter was desired to inform him, that King George loved him, 
 and that the earees of Pretane did the same ; and that, out of regard for 
 him and his people, they had sent this ship, with some of the best men, 
 purposely to do them good : and then desired to know whether he was 
 pleased that part of our number should reside on his island. He imme- 
 diately answered in the affirmative. A piece of land for their use was 
 next mentioned to him ; to which, after a few words with his privy 
 counsellor Iddeah, he answered that the whole district of Matavai should 
 be given to the English, to do with it what they pleased. 14th. This 
 morning Manne Manne and several others came on board, all behaving 
 respectfully to Pomarrey. The captain, in order to cultivate his friendship, 
 made him a present of an excellent single-cased metal watch, with which 
 he was very much pleased ; observing, that no one before ever made him a 
 present of the kind. 
 
 1 6lh. This being the day appointed by Pomarrey for ceding in form 
 the district of Matavai to the English, the captain landed upon Point 
 Venus ; was there received by the chief and conducted near to the mis- 
 sionary house. Most of the brethren from the ship, and all on shore, were 
 present at this ceremony. Peter the Swede took, as usual, the office of in- 
 terpreter. The scene, says Mr. Bowell, was laid before the door of the 
 missionary house, at some distance from which a rope was stretched, to 
 keep off the crowd. Pomarrey, Iddeah, Otoo, his wife and brothers, 
 went also without the rope. Manne Manne, who alone acted the part 
 of conveyancer, remained within with the captain and brethren. He 
 then desired Peter to tell the captain all that he should say, and began 
 by prefacing his oration with towa, tovva, hear ! in order to attract gene- 
 ra! attention ; then went on enumerating all the eatooas of Otaheite, 
 Eimeo, and the Society Isles ; next the districts and their chiefs in regu- 
 lar order ; and, lastly, the ships and their commanders, from Wallis, Bou- 
 gainville, and Cook, down to the Duff and her captain, concluding with 
 the formal surrender of the district of Matavai ; observing, that they 
 might take what houses, trees, fruit, hogs, &c., they thought proper. 
 This strange speech was delivered very deliberately by the old priest, 
 who, while he spoke, sat in an odd posture, half bent upon his heels, 
 holding with one hand the rope, and frequently scratching his head and 
 rubbing his eyes with the other. These peculiarities were caught by his 
 mimicking countrymen, who afterward turned them into humorous pan- 
 tomime. 
 
 lOlh. It having been made known that they intended to address the 
 natives this morning, numbers of them assembled early round their dwel- 
 ling ; among them were Pomarrey and his sister : he had been inquiring a 
 day or two before concerning their speaking to them, and said, " he had 
 been dreaming about the book which should be sent him from the eatooa." 
 At ten o'clock called the natives together under the cover of some shady 
 trees near the house ; and a long form being placed, Pomarrey was requested 
 to seat himself on it with the brethren, the rest of the natives standing or 
 sitting in a circle around. Mr. Cover then addressed them from the 
 words of St. John, " God so loved the world, that he gave his only be- 
 gotten Son, that they who believe in him should not perish, but have 
 everlasting life ;" the Swede interpreting sentence by sentence as he 
 spoke. The Otaheiteans were silent and solemnly attentive. After 
 service Pomarrey took broth-er Cover by the hand, and pronounced the 
 word of approbation, my ty, my ty. Being asked if he had understood 
 what was said, he replied, " There wore no such things before in Ota 
 
MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 361 
 
 heite ; and they were not to be learned at once, but that he would wait 
 the coming of (the eatooa) God." Desiring to know if he might be per- 
 mitted to attend aga>n, he was tcld, yes. Being conducted into the 
 house, he and his wife dined with them and departed. 
 
 As Peter the Swede had offered to go with them to the Friendly Is- 
 lands, the captain consented, thinking that he might be serviceable on 
 some occasions as interpreter. He proposed taking with him a young 
 woman named Tanno Manno, with whom he had for some time lived as 
 his wife, a man the mutineers had named Tom, and a boy called Harra- 
 way. The last two Mr. Crook, who had already made great proficiency 
 in the Otaheitean language, thought might be great helps to him. The 
 native^ understood they were now about to leave them for some months, 
 but the captain's intention was to lie a few days at Eimeo, and, previous 
 to setting off for the Marquesas, to touch again in Matavai Bay, when he 
 might probably learn how the natives were likely to behave during their 
 absence. 
 
 About an hour before daylight weighed, with a light air from the south- 
 east. Kept running along the edge of the coral reefs toward Taloo har- 
 bour. This harbour is on the north side of the island ; the bottom so 
 clear that you distinctly see the coral, with its beautiful branches. 
 Here they first saw a tupapow ; the flesh was quite gone ; the skin, like 
 parchment stretched over the bones, remained : the natives seemed 
 averse to their examining it. Two posts about six feet long are let into 
 the ground at each end ; on these abroad plank is laid, and the corpse is 
 there extended, wrapped in cloth, to dry, and a small shed, like a boat in- 
 verted, placed over it to keep out the rain. The bad conduct of the 
 captain's steward had been often noted, though the missionaries were 
 reluctant to complain. This had at last exhausted the patience of the 
 captain, who turned him out of the cabin before the mast. This evening, 
 going on shore with others to bathe, he secreted himself, having contrived 
 to get some of his things on shore unknown to any but the Swede. 
 
 25th. At six, A. M., with a light breeze from south-south-east, weighed 
 and stood out of Taloo harbour. Toward evening saw Tethuroa, low 
 land, about twenty-four miles from Otaheite. 26th. About four in the 
 afternoon tacked the ship close in with One Tree Hill, hoisted the colours, 
 and fired a gun ; upon hearing of which, Messrs. Cover, Lewis, Henry, 
 Gillham, and others, came off in a double canoe, and reported that all was 
 well. The wind being fresh to east, they filled their topsails, and left 
 them far astern, the ship steering for the Friendly Islands. 
 
 The day following their departure from Matavai they passed to the 
 southward of the Society Islands, in sight of Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, 
 and Bolabola ; then, with a fine fair wind and pleasant weather, shaped 
 a course for Palmerston's Island, which they intended to visit, as it lay 
 directly in their way. Accordingly, on the 1st of April, a little before 
 day, saw it bearing west, distant about two leagues ; then running nearer, 
 hoisted out the pinnace and jolly-boat, and attempted landing on the south- 
 easternmost isle ; but finding it impracticable, on account of the surf 
 breaking high on every part of the surrounding reef, they bore down to 
 the next isle, which is the south- westernmost, and found it almost as bad 
 to land upon as that they had left. On Wednesday, the 5th of April, saw 
 Savage Island, but did not get near it before dark. In passing the north 
 end perceived three lights, and on the west side seven more. They now 
 shaped a course for Tongataboo. On Sunday, the 9th, at ten, A. M., 
 saw the land. Passing to the northward of Eoo-aije, steered west-south- 
 
 31 
 
362 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 west, to the en'.rance, then west by south and west, up the harbour, fol- 
 lowed by a canoe and several others which put off" from the eastern part 
 of the main island and the isles that lie scatteied upon the reef. 
 
 Their followers were now all eager to come onboard ; but though they 
 were willing to grant them every prudent indulgence, yet they were too 
 numerous to have free access. After dinner a chief, named Futtafaihe, 
 was introduced to the captain as a person of great power in Tongataboo ; 
 and indeed such he appeared ; he was about forty years of age, stout 
 and weil-proj)ortioned, of an open, free countenance, noble demeanour, 
 and a gait stately, or rather pompous, for by it alone they should have 
 taken him a for a very great man. After the captain had made him a 
 present of an axe, a looking-glass, and some other articles, he took his 
 leave, and was hardly from the ship when two Europeans made their ap- 
 pearance ; they came alongside without hesitation, and slipping on board 
 with alacrity, gave them the unspeakable pleasure of hearing their own 
 language spoken by them. One, named Benjamin Ambler, says, that he 
 was born in the parish of Shadwell, London, and that his parents now 
 keep a public-house in Cannon-street. He is a bold, talkative, presuming 
 fellow, seems to speak the language fluently, and says that he learned it 
 wilh great facility. John Connelly is a native of Cork, in Ireland, by 
 trade a cooper, and is far less talkative than his comrade. An Irishman 
 named Morgan remained at Annamooka ; they had been about thirteen 
 months at Tongataboo. 
 
 Ambler informed them that Futtafaihe was a great chief, and presided 
 over all the eastern part of the island ; but that there was an old man 
 named Tibo Moomooe, of great power, and generally esteemed as king 
 over the island : at present, they said, he was in a bad state of health, 
 for which reason he could not gratify his desire to come on board when the 
 ship first came to anchor. About ten o'clock in the forenoon Ambler and 
 Connelly came with a present of three hogs and some yams from Moo- 
 mooe, informing them that himself intended to follow. Accordingly the 
 venerable chief was very soon alongside, but was long before he durst 
 venture up the ladd«r, fearing he had not strength sufficient for the task ; 
 he at last, liowever, made the trial, but was so exhausted thereby that he 
 was obliged to rest himself at the gangway, thence his attendants led him 
 to the quarterdeck ladder, where he again sat down, saying that ho 
 would not go before the captain till he was shaved ; and to please him 
 in this, Mr. Harris began the operation, and finished it, much to the satis- 
 faction of this decent chief. They examined minutely the jointing of the 
 chairs and of the mahogany table, and expressed no small degree of asto- 
 nishment at finding themselves so far excelled ; for they cherish an idea 
 of being superior to all their neighbours. V/hen told that the men brought 
 to hve among them could teach them those arts, and also better things, 
 they seemed quite transported. This favourable opportunity the captahi 
 improved, by mentioning every circumstance that could raise in their 
 minds a high idea of the missionaries, interrogating Moomooe as to his 
 willingncsa,for them to reside there, and also what provision he would 
 make for them ; to which he answered, that for the present they should 
 have a house near his own, until one more suitable could be provided; 
 they should also have a piece of land for their use ; and he would take 
 care that neither their property nor persons should be molested ; adding 
 that, if they pleased, they might go on shore and examine the house, 
 when, if they did not like the situation, he would order it to be removed 
 to any spot they preferred, for this he could have done in a few hours. 
 
# 
 
MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 363 
 
 At nine o'clock Ambler came off with Toogahowe, who had already 
 agreed with the former to take all the brethren under his protection, also 
 to give them a house, and the land attached to it, lor their use. Tooga- 
 howe, by Ambler's account, is the most powerful chief in the island ; 13 
 the greatest warrior, and in consequence not only a terror to the chiefs 
 of Tongataboo, but likewise to those of the adjacent islands. In the 
 afternoon a canoe came for the missionaries' things, and was immediately 
 loaded ; Bov/ell, Buchanan, Gaulton, Harper, Shelly, Veeson, and Wil- 
 kinson, accompanied by B. Ambler, embarked in it, and proceeded west- 
 ward to a place called Aheefo. A petty chief, named Commabye, was 
 ordered by Toogahowe to go with them and see that nothing was lost. 
 Kelso, Cooper, and Nobbs, remained on board to prepare the rest of the 
 things. The cargo brought on shore was surrounded by a hundred per^ 
 sons, who alarmed brother Harj^er and another ; but Mytyle ordered the 
 chests into a house near, and dismissed the people, threatening if any 
 man, during the night, approached to steal, he should be put to death. 
 So the brethren lay down on mats, in perfect security, till waked by 
 Mytyle, at one o'clock in the morning, to partake of an entertainment, 
 which he had provided, of fish, hot yams, cocoa nuts, &c. 14th. A dis- 
 agreeable night was succeeded by a morning altogether mild and pleasant ; 
 and with a clear sky and gentle breeze westerly they got again under 
 weigh for the Marquesas. 
 
 On the 23d of May discovered land; at eight, A. M., the extremities 
 of a low island bore from west 25 degrees south to west 32 degrees south, 
 distant about five leagues. This being a new discovery, tacked a little 
 before noon, on purpose to take a nearer vie*v. This was named Cres- 
 cent Island, on account of its form ; it is six or seven miles in circum- 
 ference, and lies in latitude 23 degrees 22 minutes south, longitude 225 
 degrees 30 minutes east. They directed their course west-north-west 
 toward an island with two high hills that he contiguous to each other, and 
 are so lofty as to be discovered when disiant fourteen or fifteen leagues. 
 These, for distinction's sake, were named Duff's Mountains. 
 
 When within three leagues, saw a reef ahead, and the sea breaking 
 very high upon it ; this obliged them to alter their* course to north-north- 
 west. After ruiming thus about an hour, had a better view, and it appear- 
 ed that Duff's Mouutams were part of an island about three leagues m 
 length, with several of considerable height and extent to the south and 
 south-east of it ; the whole forming a group five or six leagues long, lying 
 in a direction nearly north-east by north and south-west by south ; and a 
 reef which lies off about three miles from the main island, and probably 
 encircles the whole as a defensive barrier, extended as far each way as 
 they could see. The group was named Gambler's Islands, in compliment 
 to the worthy admiral of that name, who, in his department, countenanced 
 their equipment. Duff's Mountains, wliich lie in the centre, are in lati- 
 tude 23 degrees 12 minutes south, and in longitude 225 degrees east. 
 
 The 2Gih, at half-past five in the morning, just as the day broke, thought 
 they saw low land ahead, when the day presented' to view the imminent 
 danger they had escaped. This island, lying in latitude 21 degrees 36 
 minutes south by observation, and in longitude- 224 degrees 36 minutes 
 east by chronometer, is probably the same called Lord Hood's Island by 
 Captain Edwards, who discovered it, in the Pandora, 17th of March, 1791. 
 On the 28Lh, at noon, observed, in latitude 18 degrees 34 mmutes south,' 
 and about three in the afternoon discovered another low island bearing 
 north-east. This received the name of Searl's Island, in compliment to 
 
364 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 a gentleman of that name now in the Transport-office, and author of 
 Horre So'itari-ae and other valuable works. From this time nothing mat eiial 
 occurred until they made the iVIarquesas. 
 
 On the 5th of June, when within four miles of Resolution Bay, saw two 
 men paddling toward them in a small wretched canoe, which they kept 
 above waier by constant bailing. Though it was now dark, tv/o females 
 swam off, in hopes, no doubt, of a favourable reception : but finding they 
 could not be adniitted, they kept swimming about the ship for near half an 
 hour, calling out, in a pitiful tone, " Waheine ! waneine !" that is, Wo- 
 man 1 or, V/e ftre women ! They then returned to the shore in the same 
 manner as they eame. The 6th, their first visiters from the shore came 
 early ; they were seven beautiful young women, swimming quite naked, 
 except a few green leaves lied round their middle : they kept playing 
 round the ship for three hours, calling Waheine ! until several of the 
 native men had got on board ; one of whom, being the chief of the island, 
 requested that his sister might be taken on board, which was complied 
 with : she was of a fair complexion, inclining to a healthy yellow, with a 
 tint of red in her cheek, was rather stout, but possessing such symmetry 
 of features, as did all her companions, that, as models for the statuary and 
 painter, their equal can seldom be found. Their Otaheitean girl, who 
 was tolerably fair and had a comely person, was notwithstanding greatly 
 eclipsed by these v/omen. The chief above noticed is named Tenae, 
 eldest son of Honoo, the reigning prince in Captain Cook's time ; he came 
 in a tolerably good canoe, and introduced himself by presenting the captain 
 with a smooth staff about eight feet long, to the head of which a few 
 locks of human hair were neatly plaited ; and, besides this, he gave a few 
 head and breast ornaments. Observing a musket on the quarter-deck, ho 
 took it with care to the captain,. and begged him " to put it to sleep." He 
 received an axe, a looking-glass, and neck-chain to hang it, also a pair of 
 scissors ; the latter, an article much prized at the Friendly and Society 
 Isles, he was either indifferent about, or totally ignorant of their use. 
 
 Their intention of settling two men among them being made known to 
 the chief, he seemed higtily delighted with the proposal, and said that he 
 V(?ould give them a house and a share in all that himself had. After this 
 he went on shore ; Mr. Wilson followed, with Mr. Harris, Mr. Crook, 
 Peter, and Otaheitean Tom. Tenae received them upon the beach, and 
 conducted them to one of his best houses, intimai'ng that it was for the 
 use of the brethreii, and that they might occupy it as soon as they pleased. 
 To convey an idea of what this and all their best-built houses are like, it 
 is only necessary tp imagine one of our own of one story high, with a high 
 peaked roof; cui it lengthwise exactly down the middle, you would then 
 have, two of their houses, only built of different materials. 
 
 The 8th, Tenae was now more familiar tlian at his hrst visit, and sur- 
 veyed the cabin with a degree of attention, but not with the penetration 
 and discernment of the Friendly islanders. Happening to touch the wire 
 of the cabin-btdl, he was struck with astonishment and savage wonder ; 
 he rang the bell again and again, and puzzled himself a quarter of an hour 
 to find whence the sound proceeded. Sunday, the natives crowded off 
 as usual ; but, on being told that the ship was taboo for that day, ihey all 
 ^wam buck to the shore. On the 20th Mr. Harris and Crook came on 
 board, and held a meeting with the captain respecting their stay. Mr. 
 Hams complai.ied of the poverty of the place ; said that he could not eat 
 the mahie, k-c. Crook declared his determination to stay, even though 
 Harris should leave him. On the 21th the fishermen, whom they hauled 
 
MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 365 
 
 m at the quarter- gallery at first coming, swam off at break of tlay, and in- 
 formed them that Mr. Harris had been on the beach all the night wiih his 
 chest, and had been robbed of most of his things. Tenae, it seems, 
 wanted to treat them with an excursion to another valley, to which Crook 
 readily agreed, but Mr. Harris would not consent. The chief seeing this, 
 and desirous of obliging him, not considering any favour too great, left 
 him his wife, to be treated as if she were his own, till the chief came back 
 again. Mr. Harris told him that he did not want the woman ; however, 
 she looked up to him as her husband, and findingherselftreated with total 
 neglecL, became doubtful of his sex, and acquainted some of the other 
 females with her suspicion. Discovering so many strangers, he was great- 
 ly terrified ; and, perceiving what they had been doing, was determined 
 to leave a place where the people were so abandoned and given up to 
 wickedness, a cause which should have excited a contrary resolution. 
 Crook is a young man of twenty-two, remarkably serious and steady, 
 always employed in the improvement of his mind, and applied with great 
 diligence to the attainment of the language. He also possesses a very 
 good genius, and no doubt will contrive many things to benefit the poor 
 creatures he lives with ; and as the valley is capable of great improvement, 
 they should not be surprised to hear of this and the islands adjacent be- 
 coming very plentiful places by his means. He has various kinds of 
 garden seeds, implements, medicines, &;c., an Encyclopedia, and other 
 useful books. 
 
 The 27th, at four in the morning, they weighed and stood out of the 
 bay with a light air easterly. Their religious ceremonies resemble those 
 of the Society Islands. They have a moral in each district, where the 
 dead are buried beneath a pavement of large stones, but with such excep- 
 tions as in the case of the Chief Honoo. They have a multitude of deities. 
 Those most frequently mentioned are Opooamanne, Okeeo, Oenamoe, 
 Opee-peetye, Onooko, Oetanow, Fatee-aitapoo, and Onoetye ; but none 
 who seem superior to the rest, though the extent of information is small on 
 this head. They only offer hogs in sacrifices, and never men. The Chief 
 Tenae presides over four districts, Ohitahoo, Taheway, and Innamei, all 
 opening into Resolution Bay, and Onopoho, the adjoining valley to the 
 southward. He has four brothers ; Aeowtaytay, Natooafeedoo, Ohee- 
 phee, and Moeneenee ; but none of them seem invested with any authority ; 
 and Tenae himself with less than the Otaheitean chiefs. There is no 
 regular government, established law, nor punishments ; but custom is the 
 general rule. 
 
 July 3d, fell in with Tiookea, a lagoon island, many of which lie scat- 
 tered about this part of the ocean, and render the navigation in dark 
 weather dangerous. On the 6th, at seven in the morning, they saw the 
 high land of Otaheite ; and at noon, being close in, ran between the 
 Dolphin Bank and Point Venus Reef, and came to anchor in Matavai 
 Bay. The natives crowded off, all exceedingly glad to see them ; the 
 brethren followed in a flat-bottomed boat, which they had been desired 
 to build for the purpose of passing the shallow entrance of the river with 
 the goods. The report they gave was pleasing to all. They had in 
 general enjoyed good health. The natives had constantly observed tlx) 
 same respectful behaviour toward them as at first, and had never failed a 
 day to supply them abundantly with all kinds of provisions. One of the 
 arreoies, the tayo of brother Henry, came to the missionaries with his 
 wife big with child : Hhey were taking their leave, in order, during their 
 absence, to destroy the hifant which should be born, according to the 
 
 31^ 
 
366 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 ordinance of that diabolical society. They thought this a proper oppor- 
 tunity to remonstrate with them against this horrid custom. The mother 
 felt with tenderness, and appeared willing to spare the infant ; but the 
 brutal chief continued obscinately bent on his purpose, though he ac- 
 knowledged it a bloody act, pleading the established custom, his loss of 
 all privileges, and the dissolution ot the society, if this should become 
 general. They offered to build them a house for the pregnant women, 
 and take every child which should be born into their immediate care. 
 They threatened him, that such an unnatural act would exclude him from 
 their friendship for ever, and more, that the eatooa (their God) would 
 certainly punish hira. He said, if he saw the arreoios destroyed by the 
 eatooa for it, he would desist ; and asked if their forefathers were suffer- 
 ing for these practices. 
 
 Pomarrey and Iddeah came at noon, and going into the married bre- 
 thren's apartment, found them conversing with the arreoies on the evil of 
 destroying infants. Iddeah was particularly addressed on the subject, as 
 she too was pregnant by a toutou, who cohabited with her, and was also 
 of the arreoie society. Pomarrey and Iddeah had for some time ceased 
 to cohabit ; he had taken another wife, and she one of her servants ; but 
 they lived in the same state of friendship, and with no loss of dignity. 
 The brethren endeavoured to convince her of the dread.^ulncss of murder, 
 in a mother especially. They promised to receive the child immediately, 
 and it should be no trouble to her ; but she was sullen and made no repiy. 
 Tiiey then addressed Pomarrey, and entreated his interference in suppress- 
 ing such acts of inhumanity, and to give orders that no more human sacrifices 
 should be offered. He replied he would ; said that Captain Cook told 
 him it should not be done ; but did not stay long enough to instruct them. 
 
 A fact was reported to them, which, if true, was shocking. In one of 
 Captain Cook's visits he left a great monkey, who was made a chief at 
 Atahourou ; he had a wife and thirty servants, and abundance of every- 
 thing ; they called him Taata oore harrai, the great man-dog. One day 
 the woman seeing him catch flies and eat them, which they abominate, 
 she ran away into the mountains ; the monkey and his toutous pursued, 
 but being met by Temarre, who was jealous of his authority, he knocked 
 him down with a club and killed him. One of the brethren this evening 
 sitting in his birth writing, a young girl came in, and expressed her sur- 
 prise that they behaved so different to them from what all their country- 
 men had done. He told her that such practices were wicked, and if they 
 did such things God would be angry. " Oh," said she, " but I will come 
 to you in the night, and then none can see us." 
 
 They had de^sired Peter, that if a mawhoo came in their way, he should 
 point him out ; and here there happened to be one in Pomarrey's train. 
 He was dressed like a woman, and mimicked the voice and every pecu- 
 liarity of the sex. They asked Pomarrey what he was, who answered 
 " Taata, mawhoo," that is, a man, a mawhoo. As they fixed their eyes 
 upon the fellow, he hid his face : this they at first construed into shame, 
 but found it afterward to be a womanish trick. These mawhoos choose 
 this vile way of life when young ; putting on the dress of a woman, they 
 follow the same employments, are under the same prohibitions with respect 
 to food, &c., and seek the courtship of men the same as women do ; nay, 
 are more jealous of the men who cohabit with them, and always refuse 
 to sleep with women. 
 
 The great moral of Oberea stands on a point to the eastward ; thither 
 they went, to have a view of so great a curiosity. Otoo has one of his 
 
MISSIONARY VOYAGE. 367 
 
 representative houses here ; and in passing it some of his servants, judg- 
 ing whither they were going, followed, and were Tery assiduous hi ex- 
 plaining everything. This morai is an enormous pile of stone-work, in 
 form of a pyramid, on a parallelogram area ; it has a flight of ten sl,ej)s 
 quite round it, the first of which, from the ground, is six feet high, the rest 
 about five feet ; it is in length, at the base, two hundred and seventy feet ; 
 width, at ditto, ninety-four feet ; at the top it is one hundred and eighty 
 feet long, and about six wide ; the steps are composed partly of regular rows 
 of squared coral stones, about eighteen inches high, and partly with bluish 
 coloured pebble stones, nearly quite round, of a hard texture, all about six 
 inches diameter, and in their natural unhewn state : this is the outside. 
 The inside, that is to say, what composes the solid mass, (for it has no hol- 
 low space,) is composed of stones of various kinds and shapes. It is a 
 wonderful strutvire ; and it must have cost them immense time and pains 
 to bring such a quantity Of stones together, and particularly to square the 
 coral of the steps with the tools they had when it was raised ; for it was 
 before iron came among them ; aijd as they were ignorant of mortar or 
 cement, it required all the care they have taken to fit the stones regularly to 
 each other, that it might stand. When Sir Joseph Banks saw this place, 
 there was, on the centre of the summit, a representation of a bird, carved 
 in wood ; and close by it the figure of a fish, carved in stone : but both are 
 now gone, and the stones of the upper steps are in many places fallen ; 
 the walls of the court have also gone much to ruin, and the flat pavement 
 is only in some places discernible. The above gentleman, speaking of 
 this court, says, " The pyramid constitutes one side of a court or square, 
 the sides of which were nearly equal ; and the whole was walled in and 
 paved with flat stones : notwithstanding which pavement, several plantains 
 and trees, which the natives call etoa, grew within the enclosure." At 
 present there is within this square a house, called the house of the eatooa, 
 in which a man constantly resides. Sir Joseph farther says, " that at a 
 small distance to the westward of this edifice was another paved square, 
 that contained several small stages, called ewattas by the natives, which 
 appeared to be altars whereon they placed the offerings to their gods ;" 
 and that he afterward saw whole hogs placed upon these stages or altars. 
 The guide led to this spot, which appears also to have gone much to ruin ; 
 he showed the altar, which is a heap of stones, and how they lay their offer- 
 ing upon it ; he then went a few yards back, and laying hold of an upright 
 stone like a gravestone, he knelt with one knee, and looking upward, began 
 to call on the eatooa, by crying, *' Whooo, whooo ;" and by afterward 
 making a whisthng noise, intimated it to be the way in which the eatooa 
 answered them. 
 
 Before dinner they set off with the chief to see a morai, where it was 
 said the ark of the eatooa was deposited, and which had been conjectured 
 by some visiters to bear a similitude in form to the ark of the covenant. 
 Though it was about noon, m the road they felt little of the heat of the 
 sun : lofty bread fruit trees afforded them a pleasant shade ; and, as there 
 was but little underwood, they felt no annoyance, except from a few flies. 
 Turmeric and ginger abounded, as also the wild cotton tree. The morai 
 stands on the north side of the valley, about a mile or more from the 
 beach ; it is erected on level ground, enclosed with a square wooden 
 fence, each side of which may measure thirty or forty yards. About one- 
 half of the platform, next the interior side of the square, is paved ; and 
 on this pavement, nearly in the middle, there stands an altar upon sixteen 
 wooden pillars, each eight feet high ; it is forty feet long and seven feet 
 
368 VOYAdES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 wide : on the top a^ the pillars the platform for the oSerings is laid with 
 thick malting upon it, >vliich, overhanging each side, forms a deep fringe 
 all around it. Upon this mattmg are offerings of whole hogs, turtle, large 
 fish, plantains, )'Oung cocoa nnts, &c., the whole in a state of putrefac- 
 tion, which sends an offensive smell all round the place. A large space 
 on One side of the fence was broken down, and a heap of rough stones laid 
 in the gap : upon these stones, and ni a line with the fence, were placed 
 what they call tees ; these were boards from six to seven feet high, cut 
 into various shapes. At a corner near this stood a house and two sheds, 
 where men constantly attended. They entered the house, and found at 
 one end the little house or ark of the eatooa ; it was made exactly like 
 those they set on their canoes, but smaller, being about four feet long, 
 and three in height and breadth. As it contained nothing but a few 
 pieces of cloth, they inquired where they had hid the eatooa ; they answer- 
 ed, that it had been taken in the morning to a small morai near the water- 
 side, but that they would immediately bring it, which they did in about 
 half an hour. Though the English had not viewed this place without feel- 
 ing for the poor creatures, yet, when they laid their eatooa on the ground, 
 they could hardly restrain a laugh. It was in shape exactly like a sailor's 
 hammock lashed up, and composed of two parts, the larger one just the 
 size of the house, and the lesser, which was lashed upon it, was about 
 half that size ; at the ends were fastened little bunches of red and yellow 
 feathers, the offerings of the wealthy. 
 
 On their way back they called to see the body of Orepiah, as preserved 
 in a tupapow^ : he had not been many months dead, and was now in a 
 perfectly dry state. The man to whom the performance of this opera- 
 tion was entrusted lived close by, and came near when he saw them. He 
 seemed quite willing to oblige, and asked if they would like to see the 
 body unshrouded ; for, as it lay, nothmg could be seen but the feet. 
 Answering in the affirmative, he drew it out upon the uncovered stage, 
 and took several wrappers of cloth off it ; and, laughing all the while, 
 placed the corpse in a sitting posture. The body had been opened, but 
 the skin everywhere else was unbroken, and, adhering close to the bones, 
 it appeared like a skeleton covered with oil-cloth. It had little or no 
 smell, and would, notwithstanding the heat of the climate, remain so 
 preserved for a considerable time. The method they take for this is, 
 to clear the body of the entrails, brain, &c. ; then washing it well ; they 
 Tub it daily outside and in with cocoa nut oil, till the flesh is quite dried 
 up ; after which they leave it to the all-destroying hand of Time. This 
 tupapow was constructed by driving four long stakes in the ground, about 
 six feet asunder, lengthwise, and four in breadth : besides these, two 
 others, not so long by three feet, are driven on a line, and six feet from 
 the former four ; a stage is then made at the height of the shortest two, 
 and the corpse being laid at one end, a thatched roof is raised upon the 
 four highest stakes, to shelter it from the rain ; the vacant part of the 
 stage is to pull it upon, either for rubbing with the oil, or exhibiting it to 
 the friends and relations of the deceased. On the adjoining trees plan- 
 tains and bread fruit hung for the use of the dead. They asked them 
 where they thought his spirit, or thinking part, had gone 1 At this they 
 smiled, and said, " Harre po," that is, " Gone to the night." 
 
 They were now extremely anxious to ascertain the population of the 
 island, which, from a variety of circumstances, appeared to them infi- 
 nitely less populous than as represented by Captain Cook and others. 
 For this purpose two or three of them set off, accompanied by Peter, the 
 
JllSSlONARY VOYAGB. 
 
 369 
 
 Swede, as interpreter. Stopping at the house of Inona Madui, widow 
 of Orepiah, they communicated their purpose to her head servant, Aheins 
 Eno, apparently an intelligent fellow, who instantly suggested a mode of 
 counting, which they afterward adopted. He said that in Whyripoo 
 there were four matteynas, and to each matteyna there were ten tees. 
 A matteyna, he said, was a principal house, distinguished either by a de- 
 gree of rank in its ancient or present ov^ner, or by a portion of land being 
 attached to it ; and sometimes on account of its -central situation to a 
 few other houses. It sets up a tee or image at the moral, which enti- 
 tles it to the liberty of worshipping there, and the other hou-ses claim a 
 part in the same privilege, and are thence called tees ; from what they 
 saw, allowing six persons to each matteyna and tee, the population is as 
 follows ; 
 
 Districts. 
 
 1 Whyripoo ... - 
 
 2 Whapiawno - - - - 
 
 3 Wharoomy - - - - 
 
 4 Ilewow 
 
 5 liahbdhboonea - - - 
 
 6 Honoowhyah - - - 
 
 7 Nahnu Nahnoo - - 
 
 8 Ot-yayree . - - - - 
 
 9 Wha-ah-heinah - - 
 
 10 Hcdeah 
 
 11 Part of Terrawow on 
 this side of the isthmus 
 uninhabited. 
 
 12 Wy-eree 
 
 13 Wyooreede .... 
 
 14 Attemonoo ... - 
 
 15 Pappara 
 
 IG Ahaheinah - - - - 
 
 17 Atahourou - - - - 
 
 18 Tettaha 
 
 19 Oparree 
 
 20 Matavai 
 
 Presiding Chiefs. 
 
 [nna Madua 
 
 Wylouah 
 
 Wyreede Aowh * - - 
 Maune Manne - - - - 
 
 Otoo 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Pomarrey 
 
 Noe Noe 
 
 Roorah and 3 more - - 
 Inna Madua - - - - 
 
 Maahe-hanoo (female) 
 Tayreedc (wife of Tcmarre) 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Pomarrey -..>.. 
 
 Ditto 
 
 Missionaries . s. . . 
 
 -Mat. 
 
 Tees.! 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 28 
 
 233 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 28 
 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 4 
 
 53 
 
 42 
 
 1G7 
 
 32 
 
 42 
 
 13 
 
 161 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 17 
 
 157 
 
 8 
 
 105 
 
 25 
 
 243 
 
 12 
 
 130 
 
 IG 
 
 199 
 
 27 
 
 110 
 
 Total of men, women, and cMldrcn, in Otaheite 
 Ditto in Tiarrabou 
 
 Total on the whole island 
 
 No. of 
 Souls. 
 
 264 
 
 1596 
 
 60 
 
 7S 
 
 54 
 
 18G 
 
 126 
 
 144 
 
 312, 
 
 12M 
 
 444 
 1044 
 
 156 
 1044 
 
 678 
 1608 
 
 852 
 
 1290 
 
 22 
 
 11,242 
 4,008 
 
 15,250 
 
 In the dusk of the evening of the 27th, one of the seamen, William 
 Tucker, made his escape from the ship. About ten at night a native 
 paddled off, calling out, as he approached the ship, " All's well." His 
 business, it seemed, v/as to communicate something concerning Tucker ; 
 but he was so stupified with ava, that he could not articulate a word. 
 The coming of another canoe explamed the matter. In this last were 
 three of the missionaries, Iddeah, two of Otoo's servants, and Tucker 
 bound, who cursed Otoo heartily for his treachery. It appears that Otoo 
 had been privy to the whole affair, and had himself daily fed Tucker. 
 
 August 4th. Light airs of wind. At eight, A. M , weighed anchor, 
 and stood out of Matavai Bay. When to leeward of Huaheiae, canoea 
 came alongside ; in one of them was Connor, one of the Matilda's crew. 
 To their astonishment, he had forgotten his native tongue, being able 
 
370 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 to recollect only a few words : and if he began a sentence in Ei.glish, h^ 
 was obliged to finish it in the language of the islands. At noon next day 
 were no farther than between Otaha and Bolabola. A few canoes came 
 off from both islands ; but as it was Sunday, agreeably to the rule inva- 
 riably followed, they had no intercourse with them. On the I7ih, came 
 in sight of Eooa, and next day moored ship in the harbour of Tongata- 
 boo. Before they had anchored, George Veeson, one of the missiona- 
 ries, came^off, and informed them that the brethren were all well, Isaac 
 Nobbs excepted ; and that, for reasons judged most prudent, they had 
 separated into small parties, and were now with different chiefs. Bowell 
 and Harper were together with a chief named Vaarjee, who resides at a 
 place called Ardco, Veeson with Mulicemar, a chief of the district of 
 Ahoge, thirty miles from Aheefo, and Cooper with Mooree at Ahoge, 
 the rest were still at Aheefo. 
 
 At the funeral of Moondoe, who died in April, brother Bowell went 
 with Ambler to Bunghye to see the ceremony, and found about 4000 
 persons sitting round the place where the fiatooka stands. A few mi- 
 nutes after their arrival they heard a great shouting and blowing o( conch 
 shells at a small distance ; soon after about 100 men appeared, armed 
 with clubs and spears, and rushing into the area, began to cut and man- 
 gle themselves in a most dreadful manner ; many struck their heads vio- 
 lently with their clubs ; and the blows, which might be heard thirty or 
 forty yards off, they repeated till the blood ran down in streams. Others, 
 w^ho had spears, thrust them through their thighs, arms, and cheeks, all 
 the while calling on the deceased in a most affectionate manner. A 
 native of I^eejee, who had been a servant of the deceased, appeared 
 quite frantic ; he entered the area with fire in his hand, and having pre- 
 viously oiled his ha'r, set it on fire, and r-an about with it all on flame. 
 When they had satisfied themselves with this manner of torjpient, they 
 sat down, beat their faces with their fists, and then retired. A second 
 party went through the same cruelties, and after them a third entered, 
 shouting and blowing the shells: four of the foremost held stones, 
 which they used to knock out their teeth ; those who blew the shells 
 cut their heads with them in a shocking manner. A man that had a 
 spear run it through his arm just above the elbow, and, with it sticking 
 fast, ran about the area for some time. Another, who seemed to be a 
 principal chief, acted as if quite bereft of his senses ; he ran to every 
 corner of the area, and at each station beat his head with a club til! the 
 blood flowed over his shoulders. A great heava or mai was performed at 
 the fiatooka of Moomoe ; first by women in their best garments and finest 
 mats : pieces of English cloth or silk were added as ornaments ; the 
 perfumed cocoa nut oil dropping from their hair. Two drums and a 
 vocal concert of men sitting round accompanied the women, who also 
 sung and danced, performing various evolutions in a most graceful man- 
 mer. An old chief at intervals called out, " fyfogee," or,- encore, and 
 sometimes " marea," or, well done. 
 
 The natives expressed much surprise at observing how different the 
 missionary manners were from those of their countrymen, whose time is 
 spent in idleness and profligacy. One of them has four wives, another 
 three, and the other two. With such men it was impossible for them to 
 maintain any fellowship, and their envy and enmity they bitterly experi- 
 enced. Ambler and Morgan having heard that they suspected them of 
 havinqr driven off their hogs, came to their house and began to abuse them ; 
 and Morgan even kicked one of their number. Seeing them determined 
 
MISSIONARY rOYAGE. 371 
 
 to proceed farther, a scuffle ensued ; Morgan again struck with his clu> 
 the person he had before kicked, but the blow did no great injury. They 
 then desisted, finding themselves overpowered, but not from uttering the 
 most horrid execrations both on them and also on themselves, if they did 
 not prove bitter enemies, and murder them before morning. 
 
 The government of Tongataboo is so complex in itself, and the natives' 
 account of it so different, each taking a particular pride in exalting his 
 own chief above others, that it is difficult to come to any certainty con- 
 cerning it. The following appears most consistent with the truth : 
 
 This island bears an unrivalled sovereignty over the whole group, 
 Feejee not excepted. The inhabitants of Feejee having long ago dis- 
 covered this island, frequently invaded and committed great cruelties in 
 it ; but in an expedition which the Tonga people made against them lately, 
 under the command of Tongahowe, Filatonga, and Cummavie, they com- 
 pletely routed and brought them into subjection, so that they now pay 
 tribute to Tongataboo on certain occasions, the same as the otlier islands, 
 of which they saw an instance at the death of Moomooe. ' Tongataboo is 
 divided into three large districts, viz., Aheefo, at the north-west end, 
 over which Dugonaboota reigns with absolute sway, Mooa, the middle 
 district, is under the same subjection to Futtafaihe ; and Vaharlo has the 
 same power over Ahoge, situate at the south-east part, each claiming a 
 right of disposal over the lives and property of his own subjects, which the 
 English have seen exercised most despotically. 
 
 The people fully answer to the most favourable representations the world 
 has ever received of them ; for surely no appellation was ever better ap- 
 plied than that given to them by our countrymen, of which they seem very 
 proud, since the brethren made them acquainted with it, and very studious 
 to render themselves more deserving of it. They possess many excellent 
 qualities, which, were they enlightened with the knowledge of the gospel, 
 would render them the most amiable people on earth ; for histance, their 
 bounty and liberality to strangers is very great, and their generosity to one 
 another unequalled. It is no uncommon thing for them to complain they 
 are dying of hunger, and, as soon as they receive food, to divide it among 
 as many as are present, the first receiver generally leaving himself the 
 smallest share, and often none at all. 
 
 Their marriages are attended with very little ceremony ; the only one 
 seen was that of Vaarjee, with whom brothers Bowell and Harper were 
 sometimes resident. This was conducted in the following manner : A 
 young female having attracted his attention, he first informed his mother 
 that he wished to add her to the number of his wives. She immediately 
 communicated this to the damsel's father, and the proposal meeting his 
 approbation, he clothed her in a new garment, and with attendants, and 
 such a quantity of baked hogs, yams, yava root, &c., as he could afford, 
 she was sent to her intended spouse, who, being apprized of her coming, 
 seated himself in his house, and received her in the same manner and with 
 as little emotion as he would have done any other visiter ; feasting on the 
 provisions, and a good draught of yava concluded the whole, and the bride 
 was at liberty either to return to her father till again sent for, or take up 
 her residence with her husband, which in this instance she preferred, 
 
 Futtafaihe, on one occasion, roasted a large hog for dinner, after which 
 he accompanied them to the fiatookas of his ancestors : they he ranged 
 in a line eastward from his house, among a grove of trees, and are many 
 in number, and of different constructions ; some in a square form were 
 not iu the least raised above the level of the common ground ; a row of 
 
Profile of the stejis. 
 
 S7'2 VOYAGES RODNO THE VfORLt) 
 
 large stones formed the sides, and at each corner two high stones wero 
 placed upright at right angles to each other, and in a line with their re- 
 spective sides ; others were such as ihe brethren describe that of Moo- 
 mooe to be, and a third sort were built square like the first ; the largest 
 of which was at the base 156 feet b)' 140; it had four steps from the 
 bottom to the top, that run quite round the rp 
 
 pile ; one stone composed the height of each -^^^^P- - 
 
 step, a part of it being sunk in the ground ; 
 and some of these stones in the wall of the 
 lower are immensely large ; one, which they .,. 
 
 measured, was twenty-four feet by twelve, ^ ' 
 
 and two feet thick ; these Futtafaihe inform- 
 ed them were brought in double canoes 
 from the Island of Lefooga. They arc coral ,. , , 
 
 stone, and are hewn into a tolerably good ^ 
 
 shape, both with respect to the straightness 
 of their sides and the flatness of their surfaces. 
 They are now so hardened by the weather, ^, ^ 
 that the great difficulty they had in breaking ^ 
 a specimen of one corner made it not easy 
 to conjecture how the labour of hewing them 
 at first had been effected ; as, by the marks 
 of antiqu'ty which some of them bear, they 
 must have br^en built long before Tasman showed the natives an iron tool. 
 
 On the 7th of September weighed, and sailing from Tongataboo by the 
 northern passage, passed close ^ the small islands of Honga Harpy and 
 Honga Tonga. They had brisk gales and a hollow sea all the night ; ex- 
 tensive reefs surrounded them. In viewing their situation from aloft it 
 appeared very critical, and occasioned the island already to be called 
 Danger Island. At daybreak, on tha 13th, bore away, and ran along ths 
 north side of Sir Charles Middleton's Islands. At nine o'clock at night, 
 no danger appearing, they thought themselves safe ; but were presently 
 alarmed by the ship striking upon a coral reef, upon which the sea hardly 
 broke, to give the leastwarning. All hands were upon deck in an instant^ 
 and, as she stuck fast, became under great apprehensions of being ship- 
 wrecked ; a misfortune which presented itself with a thousand frightful 
 ideas. Judging it to be a weather reef, the moment she struck the sails 
 were hove aback, and in about five or six minutes they beheld with joy 
 that she came astern, and shortly after was quite afloat ; when they were 
 again delivered from their fears, and found the ship, which had kept up- 
 right the whole time, seemed to have received no injury. 
 
 16th. Observed at noon, in latitude 13 degrees 13 minutes south, and 
 at five, P. M.,saw the Island of Rotumah, bearing north-west by west. At 
 eight, A. M., on the 25th, saw land from the mast-head bearing north-west 
 by north, and immediately steered for it. About five o'clock in the eve- 
 ning, as they drew near to the land, found that it consisted of ten or eleven 
 separate islands, two or three of which were of considerable size, and saw 
 a canoe coming toward them, in which were two men ; they approached 
 within hail, but would come no nearer. 
 
 The largest of this group they named Disappointment Island, and the 
 whole cluster DufTs Group. On the following day again saw land in the 
 south-west quarter, and steered for it, which proved to be Swallow Island 
 nnd Volcano Island ; and farther to the south-west they could discern 
 Egmont Island ; all these were discovered by Captain Carteret. On the 
 
MISSIONARY VoYAGii. 3t3 
 
 26th of October came in sight of a low island bearing west by north, and 
 presently perceived some canoes coming toward them. Just at this time 
 William Tucker and John Connelly were discovered swimming close under 
 the stern, with a view to make their escape lo the canoes, and by their 
 ckulking appeared afraid of being fired at ; but the captain, enraged at the 
 former for his ingi'atitude and deceit, and willing to part with the latter, 
 told them, that if they chose to go they might, fdr he would not fire at 
 them. Connelly answered, "Thank you, sir;" and ihey both swam to 
 the canoes, and were received by the savages with great shoutings. Soon 
 after, a breeze springing up from the northeast, ihey resumed their course 
 and left them behind. Connelly was brought by force from Tongataboo 
 for threatening the missionaries. They did not imagine a third person 
 could be found willing to follow their example ; but such is the prevalence 
 of habit and the enervating infiuence of idleness over the mind, that 
 Andrew Cornelius Lind came to the captain, and begged earnestly to be 
 set on shore upon the next island they should discover. To this request 
 not only consent was given, but likewise a promise to let him have a se* 
 Section of useful articles wherewith to benefit the natives, and the better 
 to introduce and give him importance among thom. 26th. At midnight 
 they saw another island, and as the day broke shortly after, counted six 
 of these low islands ; and soon had a great number of canoes about the 
 ship, into one of which Andrew, after taking leave of his shipmates, went, 
 and was received with joy by the savages. 
 
 27th. About ten, A. M., came in sight of another low island. About 
 four, A. M., next day, discovered other islands. About this time it fell 
 calm, which continued ; and at daybreak counted six, which might, from 
 their size, merit the name of islands, and seven isles or keys ; to the 
 whole of which they gave the name of the Thirteen Islands. To visit 
 the Pelew Islands being their next object, they accordingly shaped a 
 course thither, but had rather a tedious passage of nine days, owing to 
 light and variable winds. On the 6th, when it became more settled, got 
 sight of the land, bearing west-south-west, distant ten or eleven leagues. 
 When they hove-to they were opposite to the southern part of the dis- 
 trict of Artingall. Two hundred persons or more were collected upon 
 the beach, and presently about a dozen canoes were seen upon the water, 
 some of which were under sail, and others paddling ; but as the weather 
 at this time wore a most gloomy aspect, three of them only came far 
 enough off to get alongside. This was all the intercourse they had with 
 the Pelew islanders, a circumstance much regretted by them, as it had all 
 along been the captain's intention to stay here a few days, for the purpose 
 of learning what they could of the inhabitants respecting the expediency 
 of settling a mission among them, and to prepare the way for missiona- 
 ries, by distributing some useful articles retained in the ship. 
 
 November 21st. At ten o'clock, A. M., passed between the Grand 
 Lemma and Potoy, and leaving all the islands, except Lingting, to the 
 south, sailed through with a fine easterly breeze. At three, P. M., came 
 in sight of Macao, and at half-past four anchored in the road, the town 
 bearing west two leagues. 
 
 January 2d. Three English men-of-war and seven of the Bombay cotton 
 ships were at anchor, waiting for the Duff to sail with them. Everything 
 relative to the fleet's departure being arranged, and the ships in readi- 
 ness, early on the 5th they put to sea. On the 10th passed Pulo Sapata, 
 and continuing their course, at two, A. M., on the 16th, canle-to with the 
 small bower in Malacca road. On the 20th sailed with the fleet. The 
 
 33 
 
S71 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 16th of March, in the morning, made the Cape Land, and fell in with 
 two transports froai Amboyna. At night hove-to, and waited for day to 
 run for Table Bay. In a few days they had got what water and stock 
 were wanted, but it was not until the 1st of April that the signal for sail- 
 ing was made, and they pat to sea, with the addition of the transport 
 Bellona to their fleet. On the 23d of June saw the coast of Ireland, 
 west of Kinsale. On the 8th of July passed the Downs; on the llth 
 came to anchor in the River Thames, and in a few days discharged their 
 cargo of tea, which was landed in as perfect order as they received it ia 
 China. 
 
 CAPTAIN D'ENTRECASTEAUX.— 1791-93. 
 
 On September 28th, 1791, in the two sloops. La Recherche and L'Es- 
 perance, of sixteen guns and 110 men each, they weighed from the har- 
 bour of Brest, completely equipped for a voyage of circumnavigating the 
 globe. The government had previously sent on board a number of gen- 
 tlemen, versed in astronomy, natural history, botany, painting. &c , and 
 had provided an apparatus of astronomical instruments, marine time- 
 pieces ; in fine, every article that appeared likely to render the expedi- 
 tion subservient to the purposes of science. The conduct of the expedi- 
 tion was assigned to Captain D'Enirecasteaux. The leading object of 
 the voyage was to endeavour to procure intelligence relative to Captain 
 La Perouse, who had long been missing in the South Seas, and to make 
 a complete tour of New Holland, an island by far the largest in the 
 world, comprehending an immense circuit of at least 5000 (French) 
 leagues. The accomplishment of this last point was essential to the 
 history of geography, and what had not been effected by either Cook or 
 La Perouse. 
 
 The first port they made was Santa Cruz, in Teneriffe ; they arrived 
 thereon the 17th of October, and, having taken in wines and provisions, 
 proceeded on their route to the Cape of Good Hope ; and while they con- 
 tinued there, the expedition sustained a considerable misfortune in the 
 death of the astronomer Bertrand. February 16th, 1792, they left the 
 Cape, and bore away for the Island of New Guinea, some parts of which 
 they explored ; they reached the Islands Arsacides on July the 9th, and 
 New Ireland the 17th. They afterward made for x\mboyna, one of 
 the Molucca Islands, and arrived September Gth. October llth. They 
 left Amboyna, and sailed immediately for the west part of New Holland, 
 along which they intended to coast, as being the least known, and then 
 to proceed along the southern shore ; they were always driven back, 
 however, by east and south-east winds, and this part of the enterprise 
 was consequently frustrated. 
 
 December 3d, 1792, they arrived at the cape which is at the south- 
 west extremity of New Holland, and sailed along the southern shore till 
 January 3d, having by this means traced and ascertained about two-thirds 
 of the whole extent of the southern coast. In consequence of the want 
 of water and the prevalence of high south-easterly winds, they bore away 
 for the Cape de Diernes, the south-east extremity of this extensive island. 
 In this part of the southern coast they observed a number of bold and 
 noble harbours. After a delay here of three weeks, they shaped a course 
 for New Zealand, and afterward for the Friendly Islands. 
 
 On the llth of March they passed very near the North Cape of New 
 Zealand, and making for the shore, several canoes came alongside, 
 
D^ENTRECASTEAUi. 875 
 
 They procured a number of ornaments from the savages, and parting 
 from them reluctantly, continued their route. 
 
 On the 16th they discovered two small islands at a little distance from 
 each other. The most eastern one lies in 30 degrees 17 minutes south 
 latitude, and in 179 degrees 41 minutes east longitude. On the 17th 
 discovered an island about five leagues in circumference, conspicuous by 
 its elevated situation. It lies in 29 degrees 3 minutes south latitude, and 
 in 179 degrees 54 minutes east longitude. On the 2d of March they saw 
 Eboua, the most south-westerly of the Friendly Islands. The next day 
 arxchored at Tongataboo, the largest of the Frendly Islands. A multitude 
 of canoes crowded about them, and the beach was soon covered with the 
 natives, who welcomed their arrival by every possible expression of joy. 
 This satisfaction was sometimes interrupted by the imprudence of somo 
 of their people, and sometimes by the excessive curiosity of the islanders, 
 to see and possess everything that was European. After a tedious voy- 
 age, which had often forced them to put into uninhabited places, how 
 grateful was the satisfaction they experienced to find themselves so hos- 
 pitably entertained by a people among whom civilization is already con- 
 siderably advanced. Among these islanders they frequently meet with 
 men six feet high, their limbs shaped in the most comely proportion. The 
 fertility of the soil, which exempted them from the necessity of extreme 
 labour, may conduce not a little to the unusual perfection of their forms. 
 Their features have a strong resemblanca to those of Europeans. A 
 burning sky has impressed a slight discolour on their skins. Tnose 
 among the women who are but little exposed to the rays of the sun, are 
 sufficiently fair. Some of them are distinguished by a beautiful carnation, 
 which gives a vivacity to their whole figure. A thousand nameless graces 
 arc visible in their gestures, when engaged in the slightest employments. 
 In the dance their movements are enchanting. 
 
 The language of this people bears an analogy with the gentleness of 
 their manners ; it is well adapted to music, for which they have a pecu- 
 liar taste. Their concerts, wherein every one performs his part, demon- 
 strate the just ideas which they entertain of harmony. The women, as 
 well as the men, have their shoulders and breasts naked. A cotton cloth, 
 or rather a piece of stuff manufactured with the bark of mulberry tree 
 into paper, serves them for apparel. It forms a beautiful draper}', reach- 
 ing from a little above the waist down to the feet. The art of pottery 
 has made some progress among them. They saw several vases of potter's 
 earth, tolerably well baked, in which they preserved their water ; these 
 vases are manufactured in an island named Seidgy, lying, according to 
 the best accounts they could gather, about one hundred leagues north of 
 the place where they were to anchor. These islands produce a species 
 of nutmegs, which differ very little in form from those of the Moluccas. 
 They are, however, aromatic, and almost twice as large. They collected 
 in the island a number of objects which may prove useful for the study of 
 natural history. They also procured the bread fruit tree, for the purpose 
 of transporting it into the West India Islands ; they were obliged to leave 
 it, however, at Sourabaya, in the Island of Java. At their departure 
 from thence they took a receipt from La liaye, the Dutch gardener there, 
 for eleven young plants of this invaluable tree, and as many roots and 
 {stocks, all in prime condition, which they had brought away from the 
 Friendly Islands, after having had them nearly eleven months in their 
 possession. The roots and plants together amount to twenty-two, all in 
 high jtroservation ; and as the tree grows very rapidly, this quantity will 
 
3f6 VdVAGES ROtlND THE WORLi) 
 
 suffice to replenish the islands with them in six or eight years time. They 
 A^ere at Jarnarang, in the Island of Java, on the 20th of March, 1795. 
 They must not confound these excellent species of bread fruit tree with the 
 wild species of it found in the Moluccas, and observed for a long time 
 past in the Isle of France. In this second sort the grains do not mis- 
 carry, while in the gocd fruit tree they are replaced by a food truly deli- 
 cious, when baked under ashes or in the oven. In other respects it is a 
 most wholesome viaud, affording a pleasant repast during the v^hole time 
 of their continuance on this island, and for which they willingly relin- 
 quished the ship's stock of baker's bread. The Molucca sort produces 
 thirty or forty small fruits ; while every tree of the Friendly Islands 
 nroduces three or four hundred extremely large, of an oval form, the 
 greatest diameter being from nine to ten inches, and the smallest from 
 seven to eight. A tree would be oppressed with such an enormous load 
 if the fruit were to ripen ail at once ; but sagacious nature has so ordered 
 it, that the fruit succeed each other, during eight months of the year, thus 
 providing the nations v/iih a food equally salubrious and plentiful. Every 
 tree occupies a circular space of about thirty feet diameter. A single 
 acre occupied by this vegetable would supply the wants of a number of 
 families. Nothing in nature exhibits a similar fecundity. As it produces 
 no seeds, it has a wonderful faculty of throwing out suckers ; and its 
 roots frequently force their way up to the surface of the earth, and there 
 give birth to fresh plants. It thrives exceedingly in a tropical climate, 
 in a soil somewhat elevated above the level of the sea ; and suits very 
 well with a marly soil in which a mixture of argillaceous clay prepon- 
 derates. 
 
 They quitted the Friendly Islands on the 10th of April, 1793. The 
 next day observed a small island named Tortoise April 15, saw Errouan," 
 the most eastern of the islands of the archipelago of the Holy Ghost, and 
 afterward that of Anatom. The eruptions of the volcano of Tana pre- 
 sented in the night a spectacle truly sublime. April 27th, steering for 
 New Caladonia, in a night darker than usual, they ran among some 
 islands surrounded with breakers, not noticed till then by navigators ; 
 they were only apprized of danger by an uncommon circumstance, the 
 flight of a flock of sea-fowl over their heads about three o'clock in the 
 morning. This indication of the proximity of land induced the officer 
 upon watch to slacken sail, and lie-to, at a critical juncture, when an 
 hour's more sailing must have dashed them to pieces against the rocks. 
 These new-discovered islands lie about thirty leagues north-east of New 
 Caledonia, where they anchored April 26th. 
 
 y\fter the description that Cook and Forster have given of the inhabi* 
 tants of New Zealand, they expected to find realized the advantageous 
 portrait given of them by those celebrated voyagers. They had reason^ 
 however, partly to suspend their belief of those accounts, when they af- 
 terward observed a number of human bones broiled, which the savages 
 were devouring, eagerly fastening on the smallest tendonous parts which 
 adhere to them. This fact at least suffices to prove that the New Zea- 
 landers are cannibals. They often attacked their boat ; but the good 
 countenance exhibited prevented their assailing or massacring any of 
 their company. Notwithstanding these hostilities, the ship was every 
 day visited by numeious bodies of the islanders. The soil being every- 
 where barren, they |)erceived but few vestiges of any taste for agriculture j 
 still, however, they observed in some gardens the Colocasia, the Caribbe 
 cabbage, the banana tree, and the sugar-cane. The cocoa tree bear* 
 
D ENTRECASTEAUX. 377 
 
 but very diminutive fruit, the water of which is far from being pleasant. 
 The baibarous customs of the natives did not prevent their reiteiated 
 excursions into the interior parts of the country. On these occasions they 
 kept together to the number of twenty, always well armed. As evening 
 came on, they commonly took their station on some elevated post in thq 
 mountains, where they passed the night in a situation which protected 
 them from hostile assualts. To guard against surprise, they kept watch 
 by turns. 
 
 Observations made for twenty days together in this extensive region, 
 of which Forster had but a ghmpse, (being sick all the eight days of his 
 being off the island,) furnished them with a variety of novel materials, es- 
 pecially in the vegetable kingdom. On the sixth of May they lost 
 Citizen Huon, captain of the Espewnce. He had been for some time 
 before afflicted with an incurable marasmus. They buried him in Obser- 
 vation Island. May 9th, they weighed anchor, and sailed before the 
 wind for the north. In their course observed the eastern part of the 
 reefs and islands, the western side of which they saw the year before. 
 
 May 21st, were close on the Island of St. Croix, and sent in two boats 
 to look out f^or an anchoring place. While the sailors were employed in 
 sounding, one of the natives, at a distance of upward of eighty paces, 
 lanced an arrow, which slightly wounded the forehead of one of them. 
 A volley of fire-arms, however, soon dispersed the group of canoes which 
 had surrounded the boats, and from which the lance proceeded. Although 
 the wound was apparently inconsiderable, it was attended with a te- 
 tanus, which proved mortal to the unfortunate sailor after only eight 
 days. The arrow did not appear to have been poisoned, as it is well 
 known that beasts pierced with the same weapons do not experience 
 any fatal symptoms. In India it is no uncommon thing to see the 
 slightest puncture followed by a spasm, which is a certain forerunner 
 of death. 
 
 After this they proceeded to visit the Arsacides Islands and that 
 part of Louisiade which Bougainville did not explgre, the northern part 
 of which is very difficult of access. They anchored after this near 
 some very lofty mountains on the south-east co^st of New Guinea. 
 After having passed through Dampier's Straits, they discovered the 
 northern side of New Britain.* 
 
 July 16th and 17th, they sailed in view of the Anchoret Islands of 
 Bougainville. On the 20th they lost D'Entrecasteaux, the captain. 
 He died of convulsions, every fit of which w^s succeeded by a speech- 
 less stupor. After having taken some notice of Traitor's Islands and 
 part of the elevated lands of New Guinea, they anchored at Waigiore. 
 
 Augest 16th, 1793, in 129 degrees 14 minutes of east longitude, and 
 so near the equator that they were only half a minute to the south. 
 Here the inhabitants brought very large sea-tuitles, the soup of which 
 tney experienced to be a salutary remedy for the scurvy, which was now 
 prevalent among them. In this island they procured a number of inte- 
 resting objects, and quitted it August the 29th, and sailed for Bouwo, 
 where they anchored September the 3d, 1793. In this mountainous isle, 
 where the productions of nature are extremely varied, they had a favour- 
 
 ♦ The whole extent of this navigation is extremely dangerous : for a length 
 of twelve hundred leagues (French) a line of rocks or breakers, nearly level 
 with the water, runs adong the bottom of the sea. In this route it is proba- 
 ble that the unfortunate La Perouse perished, unless, as was supposed at the 
 time, his vessel foundered in the dreadful tempest of December 31, 1788. 
 
 32* 
 
378 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 able opportunity of continuing their botanical researches, &c. They 
 passed through Button's Straits, fronri September 23d to October 9th, 
 frequently coming to anchor and going ashore for the sake of enlarging 
 their collections. Here several of the men died of a contagious bilious 
 dysentery, contracted in the low marshy grounds of this country. 
 
 October 28th, 1793, cast anchor in the road of Soarabaya, in the Isle 
 of Java. Here divisions broke out among the crews, in consequence of 
 gaining intelligence of the farther progress of the French revolution. 
 D'Auribeau hoisted the white flag February 19th, 1794, and surrendered 
 the two vessels to the Dutch. He also seized all the journals, charts, 
 and memoirs, which were connected with the voyage, and arrested all those 
 of the ships' companies that were obnoxious to his own political sentiments. 
 One journal, however, was fortunately saved, by having been stowed in a 
 box of tea. In this hazardous, yet important, voyage, of 215 persons 
 thirty-six lost their lives ; the astronomer, Pearson, died at Java ; and 
 Ventcnat at the Isle of France. Riche, the naturalist, remained at Java, 
 as well as Billadiere. Lahay, the botanist, also stopped there ; having 
 under his care the bread fruit trees brought from the Friendly Islands. 
 Piron, the painter, tarried with the governor of Sourabaya ; but after- 
 ward returned to Europe, and published an account of the voyage. 
 
 MR. JOHN TURNBULL.— 1800-1804. 
 
 While second officer in the Barwell, in her last voyage to China, in 
 1799, the first officer of that ship (Mr. John Buyers) and Mr. TurnbuU 
 had every reason to suppose, from actual observation, that the Americans 
 carried on a most lucrative trade to the north-west of that vast continent. 
 Strongly impressed with this persuasion, they resolved, on their return 
 home, to represent it to some gentleman of well-known mercantile entei- 
 prise. They approved of the speculation, and lost no time in preparing 
 for its execution. 
 
 A new ship, called the Margaret, mounting ten carriage guns, with two 
 swivels, and a proportionate quantity of small arms, and built wholly of 
 British oak, was at length purchased, and the command given to Mr. 
 Buyers, while the cargo and trading part were intrusted to Mr. Turnbull. 
 
 They proceeded to Portsmouth in the latter end of May, 1800; and 
 having here joined the Active frigate and the East India fleet, proceeded 
 on their voyage. 0:i the 17th of July had sight of the Island of Ma- 
 deira ; but the commodore abandoning all hopes of reaching Funchal 
 roads before dark, continued under sail till eight, P. M., and then hove-to, 
 with the ship's head to the north-east, tacking occasionally till the morn- 
 ing. At daylight made sail, and run between the Desertas and the island ; 
 and the morning being fine and clear, and the island at not more than six 
 or seven miles distance, had a full and advantageous view of it. Fun- 
 chal, the largest and most populous town of the island, is most beautifully 
 situated on the south side of the declivity of a hill facing the sea; the 
 houses rising gradually above each other, till they reach the summit of 
 the first range of hills, where the prospect is bounded by another range, 
 planted with vines and fruit trees, and adorned with country houses and 
 gardens. The peculiar excellence of the wines is in a great degree oc- 
 casioned by the care taken in selecting the largest and best grapes for 
 that of the first quality ; the next best for the second quality. Some 
 of these grapes are as large as an English plumb. The wine of the 
 
JOHN TURNBULL. 379 
 
 first quality, called Madeira Malmsey, is made from a vine imported by 
 one of the Portuguese princes from Candia. A very small quantity 
 of this wine is made, and it is of course monopolized for the best houses. 
 The next sort is what is ordinarily drank in London for Madeira. The 
 price of Malmsey, in 1811, was as high as £80 per pipe. London par- 
 ticular £60 ; and London Madeira £40. The wines of inferior quality 
 are generally used by the populace. 
 
 The anchorage lies about one mile and a quarter from a high rock, 
 separated from the main ocean by a narrow channel of from forty to fifty 
 yards wide, called the Loo or Lee rock, which is fortified so as to defend 
 both the town and shipping in the bay against any sudden attempt or 
 surprise from an enemy. This island is reckoned at about thirty-seven 
 miles in length by eleven in breadth ; and, according to the latest estimate, 
 its population may amount to 65,000 inhabitants, of which the town of 
 Funchal, the capital, forms one-fifth. 
 
 Leaving Madeira in the evening, at sunrise on the morning of the 23d 
 saw the Island of Palma, one of the Canaries, or Fortunate Islands, 
 bearing south-west. During the farther progress of their voyage they 
 were so hampered by the southerly winds, and a current setting on the 
 American coast, as to have approached within two degrees and a half of 
 the coast of Brazil ; and the vessel being new, and therefore unseasoned, 
 was in a very leaky state. These circumstances induced them to bear 
 up for St. Salvador, that the vessel might have the necessary repairs 
 previous to entering into high latitudes. This city is large and populous, 
 and appears divided by. nature into an upper and lower town. The upper 
 is seated on the summit of an eminence ; it commands an uninterrupted 
 view of the bay and harbour of All-Saints, the sea and clouds alono 
 terminating the boundless prospect. It is the seat of the viceroy, the 
 civil and military officers, and principal merchants ; while the lower town, 
 which contains the wharfs, store-houses, and custom-house, is, for the 
 most part, occupied by inhabitants of the inferior order, retail tradesmen, 
 adventurers, and persons following mechanical trades. The houses have 
 lattice-windows and balconies ; but the streets in many parts of the town 
 are so narrow, that two neighbours in opposite balconies might almost 
 shake hands. The population is estimated at from 90 to 100,000. The 
 inhabitants may be classed into three divisions, whites, mulattoes, and 
 blacks, of which the latter is by somewhat the largest. 
 
 In the dock-yard a ship of 64 guns, named the Principe de Brazil, was 
 on the stocks ; it was built of the country wood, a wood of a species of 
 Indian teek, and undoubtedly much stronger than any European oak. 
 The iron, pitch, and tar, are understood to have been brought from Lis- 
 bon, the policy of the parent-country requiring everythhig wrought or 
 manufactured to be imported from thence. Tnis yard, from its commo- 
 diousness, and still more from its capabilities of farther improvement and 
 enlargement, attracted much attention. It is a large square area of ground, 
 immediately fronting the water, enclosed on all sides ; and its internal 
 arrangements and accommodations are on a scale of magnitude and con- 
 venience which would not disgrace a similar establishment in Europe. 
 There are houses, apartments, and lodgings, for all the superior and under 
 officers ; the intendant of marine and master-builders have respectable 
 accommodations, and the blacksmith and other handicraftsmen are com- 
 fortably provided. 
 
 On quitting this harbour they gave chase to every sail that came in 
 sight ; but, though they brought-to several, they all proved Portuguese 
 
380 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 On the 7th of November, at noon, they saw the land about the Cape of 
 Good Hope, bearing east by south, distant five or six leagues. At noon 
 brought the ship to an anchor in Table Bay, Cape Town bearing wesl- 
 south-west, distant half a mile. Their stay at the cape had now been 
 near a mopth, and it was necessary to obey the calls of business, and 
 proceed on the voyage. They accordingly took an affectionate leave of 
 their friends on the evening of the 7th of December, 1800. 
 
 For the first ten days after leaving the cape had, with some little varia- 
 tion, fair winds aud moderate weather ; but at midnight, on the 18th, being 
 in latitude 40 degrees 14 minutes, longitude 35 degrees 40 minutes, they 
 experienced a very strong gale of wind, accompanied with showers of 
 sleet and hail-stones, from the west. At eight o'clock, on the 27th, the 
 column on the south head, which points out the entrance to Port Jack- 
 son, bore north and by west, distant half a mile. At this place is station- 
 ed a corporal and party, for the purpose of communicating, by signal, the 
 intelligence of the arrival of any vessel to the colonists of Sydney, whoso 
 distance from this is between six and seven miles. A pilot, in general, 
 IS in attendance here. At nine brought up in Neutral Bay, a place ap- 
 pointed by the port regulations for ships to anchor in previous to their 
 entrance into Sydney Cove, and to make their report to the governor. 
 At half-past two got under weight, and at half-past three came to an 
 anchor in this most beautiful bason of water, in seven fathoms, in most 
 excellent holding ground, and within half a pistol-shot of the shore, with- 
 out one sick person on board. The captain and Mr. Turnbull agreed 
 that the latter should continue at Port Jackson to dispose of the cargo in 
 the best manner possible, while the former should proceed in the vessel 
 upon the north-west speculation, which he did on the 9th of iVlarch, 1801. 
 
 The town of Sydney, the capital of the colony and the seat of the 
 government, is divided into two parts by a river, which empties itself into 
 a cove named after the town. Sydney Cove has thus a double advan- 
 tage, that of being well and plentifully provided with excellent water, a)id 
 at the same time possessing a harbour which might contain with ease all 
 the royal navy of Great Britain. These twofold advantages rendered it 
 much more eligible than Botany Bay, the original destination. 
 
 The police of the colony is invested in the magistrates, who are ap- 
 pointed by the governor, one or more to each principal district. Under 
 them, in every district, is a head and petty constable, and for the better 
 preservation of order, a certain number of watchmen, where the circum- 
 stances seem to require it. The celebrated George Barrington held the 
 office of high-constable of Paramatta for many years, and in the faithful 
 and vigorous discharge of his duty acquitted himself much to the satis- 
 faction of the government. But he was now a mere living skeleton ; he 
 was emaciated, and apparently in the last stage of human life. Having 
 absolutely lost the use of his intellectual faculties, he had retired on a 
 small pension allowed him for former services, a melancholy instance of 
 abused talents, and the force of remorse and conscious sensibility operating 
 on a mind capable of better things. This extraordinary character finished 
 his course on the 28th of December, 1804, 
 
 The land in the neighbourhood of Sydney, to the extent of eight or ten 
 miles to the westward, is, with some exceptions, a light mould mixed with 
 sand : about Paramatta it becomes somewhat deeper, and mixed with 
 clay, but seldom produces more than from twelve to fourteen bushels per 
 acre. In the town of Paramatta the governor had a large commodious 
 house, and several officers of the civil establishment reside here ; in this 
 
JOHN TURNBULL. 381 
 
 place also are good military barracks, erected for a detachment of sixty- 
 men. There are few free people residing here ; the greater part of the 
 inhabitants are convicts, who keep in cultivation some adjacent lands be* 
 longing to the crown. 
 
 About twenty miles west of Paramatta is the Hawkesbury settlement ; 
 and on the road, about four miles from Paramatta, lies Toungabie, a set- 
 tlement where the government keep their principal flocks of sheep and 
 cattle, and a number of convicts for the cultivation of about four hundred 
 acres of land belonging to the crown, producing at an average twenty 
 bi.S'hels per acre. 
 
 From this place are roads leading to Pennant hill, Berkham hill, and 
 Castle hilJ, districts containing tracts of tolerably good land. The 
 Hawkesbury settlement is fully six miles long ; the governor has a cottage 
 here, and there is a good barrack for a small detachment of troops ; the 
 farms are situated on each side of the river, which is capable of admitting 
 vessels of 200 tons up to the governor's cottage, a distance from the sea 
 of about forty miles ; but, by the windings and turnings of the river, is up- 
 ward of 120. The banks of this river are composed of a rich black 
 mould, from eight to ten or twelve feet deep ; this, however, only extends 
 within a few chains of the ^ed of the river, and appears to have been 
 formed from its frequent im Nidations. Beyond this the country around 
 appears to be a stiff land, composed of sand, earth, and clay, and improves 
 much by cultivation. Higher up the river is the settlement of Richmond 
 hill, where the land appears the same, but subject to the same incon- 
 venience of inundation. On the head of a creek arishig out of Botany 
 Bay, and terminating in a small river named George's River, and about 
 eight miles from Paramatta, are several farms yielding from fourteen to 
 eighteen bushels per acre. 
 
 The aboriginal inhabitants of this distant region are indeed beyond 
 comparison the most barbarous on the surface of the globe. The resi- 
 dence of Europeans has here been wholly ineffectual ; the natives are still 
 in the state as at our first settlement. Their mimicking the oddities, 
 dress, walk, gait, and looks, of all the Europeans whom they have seen, 
 from the time of Governor Phillips downward, is so exact, as to be a kind 
 of historic register of their several actions and characters. Governor 
 PhilHps and Colonel Gross they imitate to the life. And to this day, if 
 there be anything pecuhar in any of our countrymen, officers in the corps, 
 or even in the convicts ; any cast of the eye, or hcbble in the gait ; any trip 
 or strut, stammering or thick speaking, they catch it in a moment, and re- 
 present it in a manner which renders it impossible not to recognise the 
 original. They are moreover great proficients in the language and New- 
 gate slang of the convicts ; and, in case of any quarrel, are by no mt^ans 
 unequal to them in the exchange of abuse. 
 
 Their principal subsistence is drawn from the sea and rivers, the grand 
 store-house of nature in all the lands and islands of the Pacific. When 
 a dead whale is cast on shore, they live sumptuously, flocking to it in 
 great numbers, and seldom leaving it till the bones are well picked. 
 Their substitute for bread is a species of root, something resembling the 
 fern ; it is roasted, and pounded between two stones, and being thus 
 mixed with fish, &c., constitutes the chief part of their food. They have 
 oysters of an extraordinary size, three being sufficient for any ordinary 
 man. The rocks are covered with others of a smaller size, and which 
 may be had for the trouble of carriage and the labour of knocking them 
 off. They are by no moDnr deficient in personal courage ; in their pitched 
 
382 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Dattles, of one part of the country against the other, or one individual 
 against another, they display the most determined bravery. They defend 
 themselves against the spears of their assailants by opposing only a shield 
 of thick bark ; previous to their onset they join in a kind of song, and 
 gradually increase their noise till they work themselves up into a frantic 
 fury, their countenances being in the meantime convulsed, and every 
 feature of their face expressive of the fire of their mind. 
 
 One of their chiefs, Bennelong, a warrior of great repute, it is said, 
 vras caught by a very singular expedient : having taken a liking to a 
 sailor's jacket, it was offered to him without hesitation, and a sailor or- 
 dered to assist him in putting it on ; the fellow obeyed, and by putting 
 the back of the jacket in front, contrived to hamper the arms, and thus 
 effectually secured the sturdy savage. 
 
 While he was in England, he was presented to many of the principal 
 nobility and first families of the kingdom, and received numerous presents 
 of clothes and other articles, which a savage of any other country would 
 have deemed inestimable. It was not so, however, with Bennelong ; he 
 was no sooner relanded in his own country than he forgot, or at least 
 laid aside, all the ornaments and improvements he had reaped from his 
 travels, and returned, as if with increased relish, to all his former loath- 
 some and savage habits. His clothes were thrown away, as burthensome 
 restraints on the freedom of his limbs, and he became again as complete 
 a New Hollander as if he had never left his native wilds. 
 
 Having before sent a small adventure to Norfolk Island, Mr. TurnbuU 
 resolved to give it a trial in person, and left Sydney for that purpose on 
 the 25th of August, 1801. 
 
 In point of climate the situation of this island is delightful and salu- 
 brious ; the latitude is 29 degrees, and therefore the general state of the 
 weather is seldom in extremes, neither intolerably hot nor excessively 
 cold. Without the aid of any manure the soil yields two harvests in the 
 same year : the first is of wheat, which, being sown in April or the be- 
 ginning of May, is usually reaped in October ; the ground is then turned 
 up afresh, and planted with maize, which is ready for pulling against the 
 next seed-time. He was moreover informed, that many of the farmers 
 have practiced this course of cropping for a long series of years, and 
 without having experienced any diminution in the productive powers of 
 the soil. 
 
 The ordinary price of pork here is sixpence per pound, dead, or four- 
 pence, alive ; but if the payment is made in spirits, it may be obtained for 
 half that sum ; for government very wisely having prohibited any distilla- 
 tion, the settlers will purchase spirits at almost any price. Wheat is 
 eight shillings per bushel ; maize, four ; Indian meal, five shillings ; po- 
 tatoes, about six shillings and sixpence ; onions, from eight to ten shil- 
 lings per hundred weight ; a fowl, eighteen pence, and a goose from five 
 to six shillings. The quantity of land hitherto granted by the crown to 
 a settler is nearly as follows : twenty-five acres to a convict who.se time 
 is expired, and allowed to settle ; thirty to a private soldier ; and fifty to 
 a non-commissioned officer. These grants, however, are not made in- 
 discriminately ; they are given only to such as have recommended them- 
 selves by the sobriety and decorum of their general deportment, and are 
 seldom obtained without the interest and recommendation of the superin- 
 tending officers. 
 
 Adjacent to Norfolk Island are two smaller islands, known by the 
 names of Phillip and Nepean Islands, the former about half the size o 
 
JOHN TURNBULL. 383 
 
 Norfolk Island, and situated about six or seven miles to the south of it ; 
 wholly uncultivated, but abundant in herbage. That it might be rendered 
 as useful as possible to the government, several hogs were turned loose, 
 in the expectation that, in the process of time, they would multiply so as 
 to form a convenient stock. It does not, however, appear that the event 
 of this first experiment justified the expectation. 
 
 Left Norfolk Island on the 9th of August, 1802, with a fair wind, 
 which continued for about a week, during which time they had proceeded 
 as far to the eastward as the longitude of 179 degrees west. On the 
 23d of September made the small Island of Maitia, situated about a 
 degree to the eastward of Otaheite, the sovereignty of which it acknow- 
 ledges. 
 
 Continuing their course during the night, with a moderate breeze, found 
 themselves by daylight under the Island of Otaheite. The natives having 
 already discovered the vessel, were assembled in great numbers on the 
 reefs which extend along the shore, viewing the ship, as it passed along, 
 with the most attentive curiosity, the island exhibiting an appearance 
 equally beautiful and picturesque. At half-past ten, on the morning of 
 the 24th of September, 1803, anchored in Matavai Bay, situated in the 
 latitude of 17 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude 149 degrees 36 
 minutes west. 
 
 As soon as the vessel wais anchored they were visited by the master ot 
 the Porpoise, lying there, who gave an account of a very destructive war 
 which, for a considerable time, had prevailed in the island, said to be ex- 
 cited by the oppressive and tyrannical government of the family of Pomar- 
 rey. During this conversation, some of the missionaries settled in Ota- 
 heite came olf to congratulate them on their arrival, with Captain House, 
 formerly commander of the Norfolk, which had been wrecked there, and 
 u Mr. Lewin, a landscape painter, sent hither from Botany Bay, for the 
 purpose of taking views and making drawings of objects in this island. 
 These gentlemen confirmed the account of the war in the country, and 
 the general dearth in consequence of its ravages. 
 
 The King Otoo, with his concert Tetua, came alongside in separate 
 canoes, both dressed in their tcboota, a dress appropriated for the use of 
 the royal family and females of the first distinction. This part of dress 
 is merely an oblong piece of cloth, having an opening in the middle, to be 
 passed over the head, and hanging down before and behind, but open at 
 the sides, allowing the wearer to move with great freedom. The queen 
 had besides a piece of country cloth wrapped round her waist, and her 
 hair dressed with a sort of bonnet made of the leaves of the cocoa tre-3. 
 She appeared to be about twenty-four years of age, with good feature^}, 
 and in size above the ordinary standard of British ladies : she was em- 
 ployed in the humble office of bailing the water out of her canoe. She 
 and Otoo were cousins, and her sister was married to Terenaveroa, King 
 of Tiarrabou, Otoe's brother ; following the patriarchal system in this 
 respect, of marrying their nearest relations. This lady, at their first in- 
 terview, was somewhat reserved ; but, upon better acquaintance, became 
 more familiar. The king appeared in his tcboota and marra, this last 
 being a narrow piece of cloth passing between the legs and round the 
 middle, with the ends foUded inward ; these two articles constitute a com- 
 plete Otaheitean dress. 
 
 The king being very desirous to obtain some of their ava, that is, spi- 
 rituous hquors, they gratified him with a small quantity in the shell of a 
 cocoa nut, which was handed down to him in his, canoe. On receiving 
 
384 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD 
 
 the present he said aloud, my ty te lata, my ty te pahia — very good men, 
 very good ship ; and with this compliment in his mouth, took his leave 
 to pay a similar visit, and with a similar purpose, to the Porpoise. They 
 afterward learned that his majesty was somewhat too much addicted to 
 the use of such liquors, and that he would go any length to procure them. 
 His father, Pomarrey, had not yet returned from the expedition against 
 his enemies in another part of the island. It may be necessary here to 
 observe, that, by the laws of Otaheite, the son, immediately on his birth, 
 succeeds to the dignity of his father, the father from that instant be- 
 coming only administrator for his child, Otoo, therefore, was king ; and 
 Pomarrey, his father, regent. 
 
 About this time the king's mother, Edeah, appeared alongside in a 
 canoe, attended by her favourite, a chief of the Island Huaheine, a man 
 of most savage figure and manners. This lady had for come years 
 been separated from her husband, Pomarrey ; but had not on this account 
 suiTered any diminution of power or respect in the country. These two 
 personages came on board the ship with their characteristic frankness, 
 and were treated with all possible attention, having learned from the 
 gentlemen of the mission that Edeah still enjoyed such influence in the 
 state, that her favour might be essentially useful, as they had everything 
 to fear from her resentment. No pains, therefore, were spared to gain 
 her good will ; she and her favourite chief were conducted to the cabin, 
 and there entertained with grog, tobacco, &c., &c. Several presents 
 were offered her, on which she seemed to set very little value ; but ex- 
 pressed great eagerness to possess a poo pucy, or musket. This queen 
 dowager and her paramour continued to drink and interchange tobacco 
 till they were nearly incapable of leaving the ship, each appearing to be 
 equally delighted with tlieir entertainment. The attendant was so well 
 pleased, that, on taking leave, he urged Mr. TurnbuU to accept him as a 
 tayo, or inUmate friend, a civility he declined in the way least hkely to 
 give umbrage. 
 
 Pomarrey having by this time heard of their arrival, hastened to wel- 
 come them to his country, doubtless in the hope of receiving his share of 
 the presents. His approach, with two canoes, was conducted with many 
 formalities. When he came alongside he ordered his arrival to be an- 
 nounced in due form, and refused to come on board until they were all 
 in readiness to receive him with due respect. On entering the ship he 
 presented to Mr. TurnbuU a plantain leaf, the Otaheitean token of peace 
 and friendship, and behaved on the whole with much affability, mingled 
 with a certain feeling of his former dignified rank. 
 
 Mr. TurnbuU was particularly distinguished by Pomarrey, who em- 
 braced him in the country fashion, that is, by touching noses ; after 
 which, Pomarrey squeezed him gently all over the body, and swaddled 
 him up in a quantity of cloth, so that he could with difficulty move 
 his limbs, being literally musket-proof. Pomarrey informed him that 
 this was the practice in his country in making a tayo or friend, at the 
 same time giving his own name to his newly-adopted tayo, whose name 
 he took to himself in exchange. Pomarrey was not less than six feet 
 four inches in height, remarkably stout and well-proportioned. His 
 son Otoo is upward of six feet two inches high, and equally well-built 
 Ih the train of followers was a dwarf, only thirty-nine inches high, full- 
 grown, and duly proportioned in every respect, his age between twenty- 
 three and twenty-four. 
 
 On the day following they received another visit from the greater pari 
 
JOHN TlTRNBULL 385 
 
 of the royal family, so that it became necessary to distribute presents, in 
 order to secure the good understanding already begun. Nothing was so 
 acceptable to them as fire-arms, for they considered everything else as 
 useless trifles. They accordingly gave to Pomarrey a blunderbuss, with 
 which he seemed to be much delighted ; and to his son, the reigning King 
 Otoo, who lay a little off from the ship in his canoe, they offered a 
 musket. This distribution was not, however, relished by Otoo : being 
 now a greater man than his father, he insisted on his right to the blun- 
 derbuss, and Pomarrey was compelled to content himself with a musket. 
 A fresh difficulty arose in making an acceptable present to the queen 
 dowager, Edeah. Whatever was offered to her, cloth, looking-glasses, 
 scissors, even axes, she rejected with disdain, making them understand 
 that she was as capable as any man in the country of making use of fire- 
 arms. They had indeed been informed that she was not less expert as a 
 warrior than as a politician ; and that her resentment was much more to 
 be dreaded than that of her late husband, Pomarrey. They therefore 
 explained that the articles presented to her were such as would have 
 been eagerly preferred by their countrywomen ; and concluded by giving 
 her a musket. 
 
 It has already been mentioned that a ruinous war had lately prevailed 
 in Otaheite. This, as far as could be learned by the Europeans resident 
 on the island, had been occasioned by an unusual oppression of the several 
 members of the royal family, and particularly by the son of Pomarrey, the 
 young King Otoo, who, it was reported, set no bounds to his haughty, 
 domineering disposition. His administration has at all times given extreme 
 offence to the inhabitants of the district of Atahourou, who considered 
 him only as an usurper, and were constantly disposed to resist his measures 
 and to throw off his yoke. 
 
 In this war the missionaries had converted their dwelling-house at that 
 place into a sort of fortress, having procured the guns of the Norfolk, which, 
 as already mentioned, had been wrecked on the shore. With these guns 
 being planted on the upper story of the house, and having laid in a large 
 supply of bread fruit, cocoa nuts, and other necessaries, they were able 
 to withstand a more vigorous siege than that of the Atahourians. Happily 
 for Pomarrey, the crew of the Norfolk, and other European residents in 
 the island, in number about thirty, and all accustomed to the use of fire- 
 arms, espoused his cause in this extremity. On this, indeed, as on former 
 occasions, himself and family were solely indebted to his European allies. 
 
 They now resolved to leave this island, and touch at that of Huaheine, 
 to learn what supplies might be there procured. Leaving Otaheite on 
 the following day, they arrived at Huaheine, after a run of nearly thirty 
 leagues to the north-west. This harbour, Owharrow, is large, spacious, 
 and perfectly safe from all winds, being defended by a reef of rocks, the 
 natural barrier to most of the harbours in these seas. The low land next 
 the water has a most beautiful appearance, abounding with bread fruit, 
 cocoa nut, and other trees. The Island of Huaheine, in proportion to 
 its magnitude, appeared far more abundant than Otaheite ; though in 
 Huaheine, as in Otaheite, the whole hope and dependence of the islanders 
 seemed to be in the fertility of that narrow slip or border of land which 
 surrounds the whole island next to the water ; this border is common to 
 most of the islands of the South Seas. 
 
 Having made the necessary inquiries as to the chief object of the voyage, 
 and finding that it would be but of little advantage to continue longer in 
 Huaheine, they took leave of the friendly chiefs, and directed their course 
 
 33 
 
386 VOYA&ES R0t7ND THE WORLD. 
 
 for Ulietea, a much larger island, about eight leagues to the westward. The 
 stature of the king here was not inferior to that of his brother sovereign, 
 and he appeared equally flattered with the cause assigned for curiosity, 
 that of gratifying their countrymen upon their return. But, though 
 equalling Pomarrey in stature, he was less corpulent, and, in the general 
 contour of his person, did not appear to possess the same portly dignity. 
 His name was Tomaqua, and that of his queen Teenmonie. At Ulietea 
 they were surprised by the appearance of one of their countrymen, a man 
 of the name of Pulpit ; he came off with the king, and was accompanied 
 by his wife, as he called her, an Otaheitean girl, of fourteen or fifteen 
 years of age, dressed in a piece of black cloth of British manufacture, 
 wrapped round her body by way of a, marra. After some hesitation, this 
 young woman was allowed to come on board with her husband. The 
 poor fellow was no sooner upon the deck than, with a wildness of look 
 and gestures which evinced his sincerity, he uttered an impassioned excla- 
 mation of gratitude to heaven, " that he had escaped out of the hands of 
 these savage murderers." In answer to their demand of an explanation, 
 he said, that, but a very short time before, himself and wife had been 
 compelled to preserve their lives by flight, escaping with diflSculty from 
 Huaheine to Ulietea ; that he had been landed in the former island by 
 Mr. Bass, of the Venus, (the intrepid discoverer of the straits so named,) 
 who, being a part owner and supercargo of this vessel, had, like themselves 
 come to an over-stocked market at Port Jackson ; and, in order to make 
 the most of a bad business, had entered into a contract with the govern- 
 ment for supplying the settlement with a certain quantity of pork at a 
 stated price ; and, in return for his voluntary service on board that ship, 
 had received from the above-named gentleman such articles as he con- 
 ceived might be useful to him on the island. Among these articles were 
 a musket and a double barrelled gun, which so powerfully worked on the 
 minds of the natives, that, finding all other means and artifices to get 
 possession of them ineffectual, they at last resolved to murder him, and 
 in that manner procure the whole of his little property. This, their hor- 
 rible purpose, had been discovered to him by the Otaheitean girl, who 
 understood the language, and overheard their consultations upon the 
 subject. Rendered desperate by this information, he resolved to lose his 
 life rather than suffer himself to be plundered of everything by which 
 life, in such a situation, could be rendered supportable. He was, there- 
 fore, continually on the watch against his foes, and was faithfully assisted 
 by the young Otaheitean, who was well aware of the fate awaiting her 
 in the event of her lover's murder. This course of life continued for 
 some days, until being at last overpowered by incessant anxiety, watching, 
 and fatigue, Pulpit was surprised by a party of natives, his property 
 pillaged, his person seized, and led away as a sacrifice to some of their 
 divinities. 
 
 He was conducted about half a league from the spot, expecting every 
 moment to be his last. The natives, however, began to dispute among 
 themselves respecting the treatment he was to receive ; when an elderly 
 woman, who seemed to possess much authority among them, and who 
 had constantly opposed all sanguinary measures, threatened to leave the 
 island if they persisted in their designs. Her remonstrances appeared to 
 have great influence with the natives ; they therefore desisted from their 
 project, and conducted him back to his former place of residence, which 
 was now entirely stripped. Being an ingenious man, they made him pro- 
 mise to repair some muskets belonging to themselves ; and having sup- 
 
JOHN TURNBULL. 387 
 
 plied him and the Otaheitean girl with some provisions, as a peace-offering, 
 they withdrew. Pulpit now bent all his thoughts on making his escape ; 
 and, an opportunity soon occurring, he availed himself of a dark night to 
 seize one of their canoes, and, accompanied by his heroic wife, made the 
 bes-t of his way to Ulietea. Here again, not finding himself comfortably 
 situated with the islanders, he had taken the present opportunity to seek 
 a refuge in their ship. From the account given by Pulpit of the inhabi- 
 tants of Ulietea, they seemed to be much of the same character and natural 
 habits with those in Huaheine ^ it was, therefore, impossible to prevail on 
 him to return to the shore. '* Take me to the Sandwich Islands," said 
 he, with the utmost earnestness, " or to any other place ; only leave me 
 not here to be murdered." He was, therefore, suffered to remain on 
 board, as well as the young female from Otaheite ; nor was it long before 
 they had good reason to be satisfied that his unfavourable character of 
 these islanders had neither originated in malice nor a disordered imagina- 
 tion, both of which they had previously suspected might have influenced 
 hirn in his narrative. In the night before the Margaret's intended departure 
 from Ulietea, it was discovered that the followmg persons had deserted 
 from the ship, viz., David Clark, an apprentice, Thomas Smith, a cooper 
 by trade, Timothy Gauntey and William Andrews, seamen ; the last 
 three were Botany Bay convicts, and had tempted to their party two Ota- 
 heiteans, who had come with them from that island. This project had 
 doubtless originated with some of the chiefs of the island, who had acted 
 as tayos to one or other of the deserters. As soon as the discovery wag 
 made, which was about two in the morning, Mr. Turnbull went singly on 
 shore, to request the king to use his utmost authority to have the people 
 restored. 
 
 When he was informed what had happened, with a dissimulation worthy 
 of a courtier, the king expressed the utmost surprise, accompanying it 
 with a declaration, that the men had certainly not landed near them, nor 
 been seen by them on shore. They had good reason, however, afterward 
 to believe that the deserters were at that very time in the immediate 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 A whole day had been lost in this fruitless negotiation ; about half an 
 hour past ten o'clock at night, Turnbull was roused from sleep by the 
 voice of the captain, who then held the watch, exclaiming, "Turnbull, 
 our ship is on shore — the ship is on shore." Jumping instantly out of bed, 
 and running upon deck in his shirt, he found there was no wind to affect 
 the ship ; and it being too dark to see the shore, sounded and found up- 
 ward of twelve fathoms of depth, and no sensible motion of the ship or 
 water. Examining the cables, he found them both lying slack on the deck, 
 which confirmed still more the idea that the captain was mistaken ; but 
 the seamen being commanded to haul the cables, the first pull brought 
 the ends of both of them on board. It is impossible to describe the general 
 sensation produced by this discovery, that their cables were cut, and they 
 were drifting on shore. Another anchor, having an iron stock, was im- 
 mediately ordered to be cleared away ; but such was the alarm and confu- 
 sion, that it was not till after repeated trials they effected the stocking of it. 
 It happened very providentially that there was not a breath of wind stirring, 
 oiherwise the ship must have speedily gone to pieces, for she now lay with 
 her broadside against a reef of coral rocks, the edges of which were as 
 •harp as flints, having twelve fathoms of water on the outside. 
 
 It was fortunate, m this distress, that, for some slight offence given 
 by individuals .^f the crew, the natives had threatened to murder them 
 
388 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 whenever an opportunity should offer itself. The apprehensions of these 
 men were now extreme ; and by communicating their fears to the otlier 
 seamen, and persuading them that one common lot awaited them without 
 distinction, they united all hands in one effort of endeavouring to rescue 
 the vessel from her present very perilous situation. Having bent the 
 remaining part of one of the cables, about thirty fathoms, to the anchor, 
 it was carried out in the long-boat to eighteen fathoms water, and the 
 ship hauled seven or eight fathoms off from the reef. While this was 
 doing, they suddenly heard a loud and clamorous noise among the natives 
 on shore, and seemingly close under the ship's stern ; the wretches wurc 
 rendered outrageous by the disappointment of their hopes, the ship being 
 now visibly moved from the rocks. They had hitherto maintained a pro- 
 found silence, in the expectation that her bulging would give the signal 
 for the commencement of their plunder. They now began an assault 
 with stones in such quantities and with such force that, in the hopes of 
 intimidating them, the English were compelled to discharge some swivels 
 and muskets over their heads. This, however, produced a volley of 
 musketry from the natives stationed on different points of the shore. 
 
 As daylight was now approaching, they hoped to be enabled to dis- 
 lodge the enemy from their shelter, and menaced, in their turn, an 
 effectual revenge ; of this, however, they appeared to entertain no appre- 
 hension. The ship riding with her stern toward the shore, it became 
 necessary to take every precaution for the defence of this vulnerable 
 point ; and the swivels on the stern having been dismounted on the first 
 fire, they brought up two great guns ; but, upon the approach of daylight, 
 had the mortification to discover that the natives seemed to be but little 
 afraid of what they could do against them. They were sufficiently ac- 
 quainted with the use of guns to watch the motions on board, and when 
 ready to fire, they suddenly skulked behind the rocks or trees along the 
 shore, so that their fire only wasted the stock of ammunition, and, instead 
 of removing their enemies, seemed rather to encourage their attacks. 
 So intent were they on the destruction of the vessel, that such of the 
 natives as had no fire-arms betook themselves to the mountains which over- 
 hung the ship, and thence annoyed her by discharging volleys of stones, 
 many of them of incredible size. Their firing and assaults slackening 
 a Uttle about ten in the forenoon, the captain judged it to be a favoura- 
 ble moment for weighing the anchor, and carrying the ship farther out to 
 sea, and accordingly manned the boat with volunteers for this service. 
 The natives, however, as soon as they discovered this, recommenced 
 their fire, directing it chiefly at the boat, and this with such manifest 
 danger to the men, that they were compelled to give over the attempt, 
 and return to the ship for protection. At this time they could discover 
 two of their former shipmates as active as the most furious of the savages. 
 
 The boat was again manned afresh, and the attempt made, when a 
 well-directed fire suddenly commenced on it a second time ; the people 
 were again compelled to relinquish their plan, and once more betake 
 themselves to the ship. Never was a situation more alarming than was 
 theirs the whole of this day. It was now four in the afternoon, and 
 they were all fully employed in making every preparation to repel the 
 grand attack expected in the night. Each man was furnished with 
 twelve rounds of ball-cartridges and twenty-four pistol-bullets. The 
 muskets, being thirty in number, were well cleaned and fresh fiinted ; 
 the great guns and swivels were double-shotted and filled with old iron ; 
 and blunderbusses and cutlasses distributed on the deck, to be ready for 
 
JOHN TURNBULL. 389 
 
 service at a moment's notice. And, as much as possible, to prevent 
 the stones thrown by the natives from doing injury, awnings were spread 
 over the deck, and every other precaution taken to enable them to sell 
 their lives at the dearest rate and defend the ship to the last extremity. 
 About half-past six in the evening, the wind, which had hitherto blown 
 from the sea, shifted gent-ly round to a land-breeze, furnishing them an 
 opportunity of getting away unperceived in the night. That their ope- 
 rations might not be discovered, they muffled the pawls of the windlass, 
 and began to heave away upon one anchor at a time. In all these trans- 
 actions they received signal services from poor Pulpit, whom they had 
 taken on board here ; for he was an excellent marksman, and was well 
 aware of what his fate would be, should he again fall into the hands of 
 the Ulieteans ; he therefore fought like a lion, resolved never to yield but 
 with his last breath. His young Otaheitean wife likewise behaved like 
 a heroine, carrying powder to the men, and exerting herself to the ut- 
 most in every way in which she could be useful. 
 
 Their next station was the island called Maura or Mobidie, being the 
 most leeward and smallest of the Society Islands. It is only about four- 
 teen or fifteen miles in circuit, and appears to be surrounded by a reef 
 of coral rocks, which render the approach to the shore very difficult. 
 Leaving this, they bade adieu for the present to the Society Islands, 
 and now shaped a course for the Sandwich Islands. The wind was so 
 scanty during the whole of the passage, that it was with difficulty they 
 made Whoahoo, an island subject to Tamahama, the great chief of the 
 Sandwich Islands, on the 17th of December, 1802. Here they were 
 informed that the king, Tamahama, attended by the greater part of his 
 chiefs, was at present at Mowee. It is the wise policy of this chief, that 
 all those who possess any authority or influence in the country, should 
 accompany him in his progress through his dominions, that he may have 
 them constantly under his eye, and not leave them exposed to the seduc- 
 tions and conspiracies of his rival chiefs. From farther information 
 received here, Tamahama seems to be making rapid progress in his 
 schemes of aggrandizement. After having defeated the rightful sove- 
 reign of this Island of Whoahoo, and all the kings of the other islands 
 to the eastward, he has forced him, after many ineffectual struggles, to 
 take refuge in the Island of Atooi. Thus the sovereign authority over 
 aH these islands remains in his family, and his power and riches, from 
 his intercourse with shipping, were hourly increasing. He was at this 
 time making great preparations to exterminate the fugitive king, even 
 from his place of retreat. 
 
 Upon leaving Whoahoo, directed their course to Atooi, off which 
 island they arrived the 26th of December, 1802. The exilea icing of 
 these islands bears a character infinitely superior, in a moral point of 
 view at least, to that of his more powerful rival, Tamahama. He ap- 
 peared to be loved almost to adoration, and his authority, from affection, 
 seemed to be increased almost in the same proportion as his actual pow- 
 er had become diminished. On the following morning they received a 
 visit from this good king, and were welcomed very heartily by him to 
 Atooi. From some Englishmen, who had followed his fortunes for seve- 
 ral years, this unfortunate chief had acquired such an acquaintance with 
 their language, that he was able to understand and answer any plain ques- 
 tion that was put to him. 
 
 Having collected about three tons of yams, they set sail to the east- 
 ward of Owyhee. Soon after their arrival they received a visit from 
 
390 VOi'AGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 their countryman, Mr. Young, who had resided there for fourteen year* 
 past, from whom they had a confirmation of the particulars respecting 
 Tamahama. His palace is built after the European style, of brick, and 
 glazed windows, and defended by a battery of ten guns. He has Euro- 
 pean and American artificers about him of almost every description. In- 
 deed his own subjects, from their intercourse with Europeans, have 
 acquired a great knowledge of several of the mechanical arts, .and have 
 thus enabled him to increase his navy, a very favourite object with him. 
 His dominion seems now to be completely established. He is not only 
 a great warrior and politician, but a very acute trader, and a match for any 
 European in driving a bargain. He is well acquainted with the different 
 weights and measures, and the value which all articles ought to bear in 
 exchange with each other ; and is ever ready to take the advantage of 
 the necessities of those who apply to him or his people for supplies. 
 
 Tamahama's ardent desire to obtain a ship from Captain Vancouver 
 was, in all probability, first excited by the suggestions of Young and his 
 countrymen, Davis ; but such was the effect of this undertaking, that Ta- 
 mahama became immediately more sparing of his visits on board the 
 Discovery ; his time being now chiefly employed in attending to the car- 
 penters at work on this new man-of-war, which, when finished, was 
 named the Britannia. This was the beginning of Tamahama's navy ; and, 
 from his own observations, with the assistance of Messrs. Young, Davis, 
 &c., he has laboured inflexibly in improving his marine force, which he 
 has now brought to a respectable state ; securing to him not only a de- 
 cided superiority over the frail canoes of his neighbours, but the means 
 of transporting his warriors to distant parts. Some of his vessels are 
 employed as transports in carrying provisions from one island to another, 
 to supply his warriors ; while the largest are used as men-of-war, and 
 are occasionally mounted with a few light guns. No one better under- 
 stands his interest than this ambitious chief ; no one better knows how to 
 improve an original idea. The favours of Vancouver and his other Euro- 
 pean benefactors would have been thrown away on any other savage ; 
 but Tamahama possesses a genius above his situation. His body-guards, 
 who may be considered in some respects as regularly disciplined troops, 
 go on duty not unfrequently with the drum and fife, and relieve each other 
 as in Europe, calling out, " all is well " at every half hour, as on board 
 of ship. Their uniform at this time was simply a blue great-coat with 
 yellow facings. 
 
 On the evening of the 21st of- January stood along the shore to the 
 eastward, taking the advantage of a land-breeze. On the 5th of March, 
 in standing to the northward, at about half-past eleven, P. M., saw land. 
 At eleven, A. M., another low island, almost level with the water, was 
 seen from the maintop by one of the seamen. At noon, on the 7th, a 
 low island, seen in the morning, bore from north by west half west to 
 north by east half east, distant five or six miles. On the lOlh of March, 
 continuing their course to the northward, an island was seen bearing from 
 north-east to north-east by east, at from twelve to fourteen miles distance 
 In compliment to the late Sheriff of London, Sir Richard Phillips, they 
 named it Phillip's Island ; it is situated in latitude 16 degrees 24 minutes 
 south, and longitude 143 degrees 37 minutes west. To another in its 
 neighbourhood, situated in latitude 16 degrees 12 minutes south, and lon- 
 gitude 143 degrees 57 minutes west, they gave the name of Holt's Island. 
 Proceeding again, they arrived at the small Island of Maitia, (the Recrea- 
 tion of Roggewein,) situated in the latitude of 15 degrees 48 minutes 
 
JOHN TITRMBULL. 391 
 
 south, and longitude 147 degrees 58 minutes west. At daylight, on the 
 21st, the Island of Otaheite bore from south by east to west by north half 
 north, distant five miles. At noon anchored in Matavai Bay. During their 
 absence, they found the ship Nautilus had been at Otaheite, and taken 
 away all the hogs she could procure. The captain and Mr. Turnbull now 
 concurred in opinion to sail with the ship to some of the islands lying to 
 windward ; and thence procuring a live stock of hogs, should bring them, 
 to Otaheite to be slaughtered. The latter gentleman with two or three 
 assistants were to remain at Otaheite on the salting business. 
 
 Mr. Turnbull, after some time, became uneasy with respect to the 
 ship, as she had now been away two months instead of three weeks. 
 Otoo frequently said the ship was " Killed dead by the stones,'''' he was 
 certain of it. At length the fatal remains of the Margaret were disco- 
 vered by the natives, about three leagues to the northward of the island. 
 The conjectures of the royal family, the missionaries, and the natives, 
 seemed all to lead to one point ; and, by their expressive looks, it was 
 not difficult to comprehend their object. The sight of the sail confirmed 
 these apprehensions beyond any farther doubt ; it was as large as three 
 of the boat's, and could belong to nothing but a ship. From contrary 
 winds and lee currents, it seems, the ship had been a fortnight in getting 
 to windward ; and it was only the evening previous to the accident that 
 the captain had commenced trading with the natives. The business of 
 the captain, as he proposed to renew the trade for pearls (the principal 
 object of his visit) on the succeeding morning, was to keep his station 
 during the night ; but while in the act of plying to windward for this pur- 
 pose, the ship was unfortunately lost on a low reef of rocks and sand- 
 banks, in the vicinity of a cluster of islands called the Pallisers, in lati- 
 tude 15 degrees 38 minutes south, and longitude 146 degrees 30 minutes 
 west, which had never before been discovered. The captain and the 
 crew landed with much difficulty, and employed themselves in saving 
 whatever stores were within their reach ; but during the ensuing night 
 the boat was stolen, through the treachery of two Otaheitean natives who 
 belonging to the ship, and could never afterward be recovered. As a 
 last resource, therefore, the deck of the ship was broken up, and, with 
 the boards and nails it afforded, a kind of punt was made. Being flat- 
 bottomed, it of consequence floated in less water ; arid even that with 
 some difficulty was got over the reef. The craft being finished, the crew, 
 to the number of eighteen, embarked, having on board only a few muskets, 
 a small quantity of powder, one bag of bread, and ten gallons of water. 
 Even this was so brackish that nothing but their present situation could 
 have induced them to have made use of it ; for the sand-bank being only 
 about forty yards across, and not more than four feet above the level of 
 the sea, it was only by digging a good depth that any could be obtained. 
 After a voyage of five days in this most miserable of crafts, they at length 
 reached Otaheite, nearly exhausted. 
 
 After the unfortunate circumstance of the loss of the Margaret, their 
 prospects at Otaheite were very gloomy. Having saved little or no pro- 
 perty from the wreck, it became a subject of serious consideration in 
 what manner to subsist. Otaheite is as little calculated as Europe for 
 those who are without money. The blessing of Providence, however, 
 again interposed ; for, after they had been about three months in sus- 
 pense, on the afternoon of ^he 27th of August, 1803, a shout of te pahia, 
 te pahia, (a ship, a ship,) resounding through the island, aroused them 
 into new expectations. Hope and fear now alternately prevailed ; thejr 
 
392 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 apprehended that the captain might have some possible objection ; that 
 he might be going to China, or on some other more circuitous voyage. 
 It so happened, however, that the goodness of Providence was complete ; 
 the ship was going to the very place to which of all others they wished, 
 to Port Jackson. 
 
 There were so many ceremonies to be performed at Atahourou, that 
 the business had not been finally settled when the ship arrived. The in- 
 telligence of this event, however, brought Pomarrey home to prepare his 
 presents ; he got his hogs in the canoe, and was half way to the ship, 
 when he was seized suddenly with a fit, and, falling with his hands on 
 the side of the canoe, expired. The poor fellows in the canoe imme- 
 diately paddled back as fast as possible to his house at Oparree, where, 
 on her way likewise to visit the ship, Edeah had by this time arrived. It 
 has been before mentioned, that they imputed the death of others to the 
 prayers of the missionaries ; and that they are persuaded the prayers of 
 these holy men have this kind of sacred witchcraft. Under such impres- 
 sions, it may readily be conceived that the situation of the missionaries 
 is not the most pleasant in the world. They indeed neglect nothing to 
 render their mission successful ; on every Sabbath-day they traversed 
 the country, two by two, in diflferent directions. But, it is feared, their 
 efforts will for a long period be unavailing. The natives consider them as 
 very good men, and love and esteem them accordingly ; but they do not 
 comprehend, and therefore do not believe, the articles of their religion. 
 One Sunday evening Mr. Jefferson requested permission to exhort Otoo 
 and Terenaveroa, with all their followers ; Otoo sent a messenger to 
 Mr. TurnbuU on the occasion, saying that he wished to see him ; he ac- 
 cordingly went, and found Mr. Scott and Mr. Jefferson in the act of ex- 
 hortation. Their congregation might amount to about fifty. Upon its 
 conclusion, Mr. Turnbull demanded of Otoo what he wanted with him. 
 He asked, upon the departure of the missionaries, whether it was all true 
 they had preached 1 He replied in the affirmative ; that it was strictly 
 so according to his own belief, and that of all the wiser and better part 
 of his countrymen. He demanded where Jehovah lived ; Mr. Turnbull 
 pointed to the heavens. He said he did not believe it. His brother was, 
 if possible, still worse. Edeah was looking on, with a kind of haughty 
 and disdainful indifference. It was all kavery, or falsehood ; adding, they 
 would not believe unless they could see ; and observed, as they could 
 bring down the sun and moon by means of a quadrant, why could they 
 not bring down their Saviour by a similar operation 1 
 
 The missionaries apparently lived together in the greatest love and 
 harmony, and all of them presented an example of industry. Their situa- 
 tion, however, was by no meana so comfortable as many of their country- 
 men may be inclined to imagine ; for as their stock of European articles 
 decreases, they must proportionably lose their influence over the natives. 
 They possessed a public garden very well stocked and cultivated, and the 
 greater part of them a private one not much inferior. The space en- 
 closed within the palisades of the public garden is about four acres. It 
 seems natural to imagine that its beauty and utility would have acted as 
 a stimulus to the natives to imitate their industry ; but the indolence of 
 the Otaheiteans is beyond the cure of any common remedy. In the gar- 
 dens of the missionaries are lemon, lime, orange, peach, and citron trees, 
 in great number and perfection ; they have, moreover, patches of the tarra 
 root, Indian corn, and indigo. It must be some vears, however, before 
 they can expect t9 derive any considerable advantage from these. Mr. 
 
JOHN TtRNBTTLt. 393 
 
 Jefferson had opened a school, but only one native attended ; this was 
 the daughter of a European, one of the crew of the Matilda. These good 
 men, at Mr. Turnbull's departure, were very anxious to receive intelli- 
 gence from their friends in England, and were in daily expectation of the 
 arrival of one of their ships. Edeah observed, in a manner which it was 
 not difficult to interpret, that this ship was a long time coming.* 
 
 They took their final leave of Otaheite on the 2d of September, 1803, 
 bending their course for the Friendly Islands. On their way thither made 
 Savage Island ; and the wind being fair and a commanding breeze, sailed 
 within the distance of three miles of the shore. They next made the 
 Island of Eooa,t or Middleburg, the easternmost of the Friendly Islands, 
 and lay off and on the greater part of the day, trading with the natives 
 for cocoa nuts and curiosities. These people, in their manners and ap- 
 pearance, have a great resemblance to the Sandwich islanders. Their 
 canoes, with the exception of those of the Sandwich Islands, were the 
 neatest seen in these seas. The people appeared to be persuaded that 
 their curiosities were inestimable, for they observed no moderation in they 
 demands. They trade as if they had been accustomed to extortion all 
 their lives ; they wanted axes and scissors in exchange for their worth- 
 less trumpery. From the short visit paid this people, it is impossible to 
 say anything with regard to their habits and manners ; the uncommon 
 ferocity of their looks, however, must excite an involuntary surprise at a 
 first interview with them. This perhaps appeared more striking, as they 
 had but then left the Otaheiteans, whose looks rather invite to confidence. 
 
 It is said that some of the missionaries, in their efforts to improve the 
 condition of this people, have lost their lives. The remainder were pro- 
 videntially preserved by the arrival of a Spanish prize, on board of which 
 was one of their brethren of the name of Harris, who, in despair of effect- 
 ing any useful purpose, had left the Marquesas. He had joined this prize 
 as a kind of navigating pilot at Otaheite, on her way to Port Jackson ; 
 and, in consequence of his interest, had procured the admission of the 
 other missionaries on board, and thus, in all probability, saved their lives. 
 Since that time, nearly the whole of the Portland's crew have fallen victims 
 to the treachery of these islanders ; and three of the sailors belonging to 
 the Union, who landed among them, have been barbarously and inhumanly 
 murdered. And, while on this subject, we cannot omit a circumstance 
 of a peculiar nature, which took place at Vavao, one of the neighbour- 
 ing islands, in August, 1801 -. The last missionary ship, on her passage 
 from Otaheite to China, waiving all intercourse with Tongataboo, made 
 choice of the harbour of that island, which is represented as large and 
 capacious, for the purpose of recruiting her stock of water, &c., &c. On 
 clearing the harbour, they observed a large double canoe, which had just 
 arrived from the Hapaee Islands, and had an European on board. Curi- 
 osity led them to send the pinnace to hear the state of those islands ; 
 at one, P. M., the pinnace returned with the European, who proved to 
 
 * The continued acts of oppression that have been exercised by Pomarrey, 
 or Otoo, since the death of his father, has, exactly as was foreseen, brought 
 upon him a just and merited punishment. The whole people, unable to en- 
 dure their hard lot, and stimulated by a desire of liberty and of vengeance, 
 had recoiirse to arms ; and after various engagements, in which they wers 
 always successful, at last drove him and the whole of his partisans from the 
 island. The missionaries, alarmed, and under the most serious apprehen- 
 sions for the safety of their lives, came to a resolution of abandoning the 
 island, and retiring to Port Jackson. t ^r Eaoowee. 
 
394 VOYAGES ROITND THE WORLI?. 
 
 be Mr. George Veeson, who was left at Tongataboo by the Duff. The 
 pinnace had some difficulty in getting him, as the chief had given orders 
 to take him on shore, and then destroy him, that he might not give infor- 
 mation respecting several Europeans that had been murdered by them at 
 the Hapaee Islands. He had made several attempts to get away previous 
 to this, and was often on the point of escaping, but the vigilance of the 
 savages rendered them all abortive. 
 
 On making the land about Port Jackson, some young Otaheiteans on 
 board were in raptures, probably thinking it was England ; but seeing the 
 barrenness of the country as they entered the harbour, and the scragginesa 
 of the trees, their spirits evidently sunk. On coming to an anchor in 
 Sydney Cove, there was a coach and four standing almost opposite the 
 ship. This astonished them beyond measure. Each inquired of the other 
 their opinion of this wonderful phenomenon. They concluded that it must 
 be a travelling house ; but they could find no name for the horses, having 
 in their country no larger animals than hogs, though some of them indeed 
 were of an uncommon size, weighing from thirty to thirty-five score. 
 The Otaheiteans therefore called them by the name of mighty Logs. 
 
 During Mr. TurnbuU's absence from the colony in 1801, and return in 
 the latter end of 1803, many stone buildings had been erected, and the 
 appearance of the whole town much changed for the better, the governor 
 encouraging the erection of these edifices by all the means in his power. 
 The discovery of lime-stone in various parts at this time essentially con- 
 tributed to the execution of these patriotic efforts. Many of the houses, 
 which had been erected at the first settlement of the colony, were in a 
 state of rapid decay ; the governor, therefore, with a laudable provision 
 for the gradual improvement of the town, prohibited the proprietors from 
 rebuilding them int he old style. If they were in circumstances to rebuild 
 with stone, they were to do so ; if not, they were at all events to introduce 
 some improvement upon the ancient method, or the governor refused them 
 his sanction and assistance. 
 
 The most common indigenous animals of this country are the dog, which 
 is here of the wolf nature, and much eaten by the natives. The kangaroo 
 is likewise considered by them a great delicacy ; and, in times of scarcity, 
 was much sought after by the European inhabitants. They used it as a 
 substitute for beef ; it does not eat unlike it, and usually weighs from 
 twenty-five to one hundred and forty pounds. 
 
 Bass's Straits, since their discovery, have afforded employment for a 
 number of hands, who are engaged by different individuals at Port Jack- 
 son, and carried thither in small colonial vessels. They are stationed in 
 different places, in gangs of ten or twelve, more or less, to collect the oil 
 of the sea-elephant, and seal-skins, with which the straits abounded on 
 their first discovery. The elephant oil, next to the spermaceti, is said to 
 be the most valuable of any. A mercantile gentleman resident in the 
 colony, Mr. Robert Campbell, who, from his public spirit and the general 
 accommodation he affords the settlers, is deserving of every encouragement, 
 was making up a cargo of it for the English market. When Mr. Turn- 
 bull left the colony, he had collected about 180 tons. The seal-skins are 
 generally disposed of to American and other ships going to China, but 
 latterly they have found a much more profitably market in England. Some 
 few are tanned and worked up for various purposes in the country. 
 
 The country having been originally covered with wood, and the stumps 
 of the trees still remaining in the ground, agriculture is prevented from 
 being carried on by the help of cattle. It is by manual labour only, and 
 
JOHN TTJRNBULLs 595 
 
 chiefly by the hoe, that the soil is cultivated, which much enhances the 
 value of the produce. The cultivation of the country, therefore, has taken 
 place but in patches, where spme peculiar advantageous circumstances, as 
 good land, a navigable creek or river, &c., have induced a family to settle. 
 They hold their lands as a perpetual grant under the hand of the gover- 
 nor and seal of the colony ; and the only clause is a quit-rent of two 
 shillings and sixpence per annum for every 100 acres, and a reservation of 
 such timber for the crown as may be fit for naval purposes. The quantity 
 of land hitherto granted by the crown to settlers is twenty-five acres to a 
 convict whose time is expired, and who has been allowed to settle ; thirty 
 to a private soldier ; fifty to a non-commissioned officer ; one hundred to 
 a commissioned ditto ; and one hundred and eighty to a free man from 
 England. But of late the regulation in some instances has been broken 
 through, and government has been more liberal in their grants. The 
 appearance of the farms bespeaks the industry of the owners, and every 
 farmer keeps as many men as the produce of his land will admit of. The 
 seed-time for wheat is from the beginning of April to the middle of May, 
 and it is reaped in December. Indian corn is planted in the months of 
 October and November, and pulled in April and May. The produce, of 
 course, is different according to the various natures of the land, from twelve 
 to forty bushels per acre. At Hawkesbury the land, when first cultivated, 
 is said to have produced sixty bushels per acre, but on calculation they 
 do not make the average of the colony, in ordinary years, more than 
 fifteen bushels per acre. The quantity of seed-wheat required is from 
 one and a half to two and a half bushels per acre, and that of Indian cora 
 two quarts per acre. Potatoes may be planted and dug throughout the 
 whole year. The grape answers well, but is little cultivated in the country. 
 The day's work, throughout the year, is fixed at ten hours, and six oa 
 Saturday. If a master employs any prisoner in his own time, his pay- 
 ment is not to be more than at the rate of one shilling per diem. Clothing 
 for the convicts is issued twice annually, viz., in December and June. In 
 December each man is furnished with one frock, one shirt, one pair 
 trousers, one pair breeches, and one pair shoes j in June, with two jackets, 
 two shirts, one pair breeches or trousers, one hat, and two pair shoes. 
 Masters not having an opportunity of clothing such prisoners, on appli- 
 cation, are supplied with the above articles at the government price. By 
 his agreement with government, the employer is to find sufficient lodging 
 for such servant on his farm or habitation ; nor is the prisoner to absent 
 himself on any account, without leave from his employer. One great dif- 
 ficulty in the government of this settlement is to prevent the escape of 
 the convicts. Scarcely a ship leaves the port, without some attempt 
 being made ; and the failure of one is only the commencement of another. 
 Very severe is the penalty for carrying prisoners away whose terms of 
 transportation have not expired. In 1809 the master of a vessel was fined 
 £800 for having contravened the port orders, by secreting three convicts. 
 The usual method of payment in this colony is by the barter of one com- 
 modity for that of another. Spirits, tea, sugar, and tobacco, are in greatest 
 demand ; and next to these, the manufactures and productions of the 
 mother country. These articles are received in exchange to the great 
 advantage of the seller. There is scarcely any specie in circulation. 
 The most common money, if such it may be called, is the notes- of-hand 
 of individuals, which, however respectable, as in some instances may be 
 the credit of the drawers, is very inconvenient to adventurers, who can 
 stay only a certam time, and cannot expect to circulate such notes beyond 
 
396 VOYAOBS ROUND THE WORID. 
 
 the colony. There is, however, a good quantity of copper coin in circu- 
 lation, which passes for double its value. 
 
 The Calcutta having completed her repairs and cargo, the captain and 
 Mr. Turnbull embarked on board that ship on the evening of the 16th of 
 March, 1804, in very ill health, brought on by a course of hardships and 
 fatigue. And on the following day bade adieu to this settlement, where, 
 from party divisions and the bad habits of the convicts, it requires some 
 discretion in a stranger to steer clear of offence. « On the 27th of April 
 rounded Cape Horn. On the 22d of May arrived off the harbour of Rio 
 Janeiro, in latitude 22 degrees 54 minutes south, and longitude 42 degrees 
 42 minutes west. At length, after an absence of four years and twenty- 
 one days, the long-lost shores of Albion made their appearance. Two days 
 after they anchored at Spithead, in the midst of a fleet of ships, the de- 
 fence and just pride of their country. 
 
 CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN.— 1803-6. 
 
 On the 7th of August, 1802, Captain Krusenstern was appointed to 
 the command of an expedition preparing for the north-west coast of 
 America ; but it was not until February, 1803, that two ships, one of 
 450 tons, the other of 370 tons, had been purchased, for £17,000 sterling, 
 in London. In addition to this sum, their repairs had cost £5,000. The 
 first of these two vessels was called Nadeshda, or the Hope, the other 
 the Neva ; the former commanded by himself, the latter by Captain 
 Lisianskey. M. de Resanoff embarked in the Nadeshda, as ambassador- 
 extraordinary to the court of Japan. Valuable presents were prepared to 
 secure the favour of the monarch and his ministers ; and, to effect this 
 with the greater certainty, some Japanese, who, in 1796, were captured 
 in the Aleutian Islands, such of them, at least, as. had not embraced the 
 Christian religion and wished to return home, were to be conveyed back 
 from Irkutsk, the place of their confinement. 
 
 On the 5th of June, 1803, the ships destined for the voyage arrived at 
 Cronstadt. On the 7th of August, at nine in the morning, they sailed. 
 On the 26th of September crossed the meridian of Greenwich ; soon after 
 saw St. Ann's, the eastern point of the entrance to Falmouth, and 
 Pendennis Castle, which is the westernmost. At eight o'clock anchored 
 in the Carreck road. 
 
 The wind was now favourable, and they waited with considerable im- 
 patience for M. ResanofF, who, at length, arrived at Falmouth early in 
 the morning of the 5th. The same day they sailed from Carreck road. 
 On the 19th anchored in Santa Cruz, Teneriffe. About twelve at noon, 
 on the 27th, they weighed with a pleasant southerly breeze. On the 6th 
 of November, at daybreak, perceived the Island of St. Antonio at the dis- 
 tance of from twenty-five to twenty-eight miles. During the whole time 
 that the trade wind lasted they were accompanied by an infinite number of 
 bonitos, and harpooned some of them almost daily. They made a fresh 
 and palatable dish for the people. They caught but one shark, part of 
 which was eaten, although it was not so good as a bonito. The Japanese, 
 however, ate the head, and seemed to relish it much. At daybreak, 
 December 11th, saw the Island of Frio, which lies near Cape Frio, and 
 is easily distinguished by a deep valley which divides the island into two 
 equal parts. They now held a course directly for St. Catharine's, the 
 depth £)f the road of which diminishes gradually to five fathoms, in which 
 
CAPTAIN KRtJSENSTEKN. 397 
 
 ■oundings they anchored at five o'clock in the evening o( the 2l8t of De- 
 cember. 
 
 The town, which is very pleasantly situated, consists of one hundred 
 ill-constructed houses, and is inhabited by two thousand or three thousand 
 poor Portuguese and negro slaves. The governor's house and the bar- 
 racks are the only buildings distinguished by their appearance above the 
 rest. They were, at this time, building a church, which in many Catho- 
 lic countries is thought more of than either hospitals or any other useful 
 building. On the main, as well as in the island, the soil is remarkable 
 fruitful. Excellent coflfee and sugar are cultivated here. The rum is 
 not equal to that of Jamaica ; experience convinced them that it improves 
 by age and travelling, and yields then in nothing to the rum of Santa 
 Cruz. But as foreign ships are only allowed to purchase for ready-money, 
 and none of the inhabitants of this government are permitted to send their 
 produce to Europe, the prospect of selling it falls entirely to the ground. 
 Where the market is overstocked, industry must naturally be checked ; 
 and they only cultivate, therefore, sufficient for their own use, and to 
 enable them to send yearly one or two small vessels, of about seventy to 
 eighty tons, to Rio de Janeiro, to barter inland productions against Euro- 
 pean goods ; for the inhabitants of these parts receive only from Rio de 
 Janeiro the most indispensable articles of life. 
 
 On the 22d of January the Neva received a new foremast, and on the 
 25th a mainmast. Day and night the crews of both ships were employed 
 in getting her ready for sea. On the 2d of February the ambassador 
 came on board, accompanied by the governor and several of his officers. 
 The guns of all the three forts fired the moment the boat hove in sight. 
 On the 26th of February had sight of the whole coast of Staten Land, 
 trending from south to south-east, at a distance of from thirty-five to forty 
 miles. The land formed nearly a straight line, lying east and west, and 
 appeared to consist entirely of pointed hills, separated from each other by 
 deep hollows, and cut sharp off by the sea. At eight o'clock, in the 
 morning of the 3d of March, four weeks after their departure from St. 
 Catharine's, they doubled Cape Horn, On the 24th, so high a wind arose 
 at north-north-east, veering to north-north-west, with lofty waves and foggy 
 weather, that they lost sight of the Neva. At daybreak, on the 6th of 
 May, saw Fetugu Island, one of the Marquesas, distant from thirty-five 
 to thirty-eight miles. This island is lofty, but is not of a great circum- 
 ference ; it consists of a single high, and at the summit almost flat rock, 
 with a gentle inclination from north to south. On the northernmost point 
 is to be perceived, though not very distinctly, a division forming two hills. 
 
 About five in the afternoon perceived Nukahiwa wrapped in fog, which 
 prevented their forming any correct judgment of its distance. At eleven 
 o'clock next day they perceived to the westward a canoe rowing off ; it 
 had an out-rigger, and was paddled along by eight Indians : they were 
 much struck by a white flag it had hoisted, a token of peace that led 
 them to expect some European on board of it ; their expectations were 
 soon confirmed. There was an Englishman in the boat, who at first had 
 quite the appearance of one of the islanders ; his dress being entirely in 
 their fashion, consisting merely of a girdle round the waist. He showed 
 the certificates of two Americans, (to whom he had been of assistance 
 during their stay here, particularly by procuring them wood and water,) 
 in which it was attested that he had conducted himself well ; and he 
 offered his service, which they readily accepted, being glad to procure so 
 good an interpreter, by whose assistance thev hoped to obtain some par- 
 
 34 
 
398 VOYAGES ROtTND THE WORLD. 
 
 ticular information about this almost unknown island. This Englishman, 
 whose name was Roberts, told them that he had been seven years upon 
 the island, and two years previously in that of Santa Christina ; that ha 
 had been put on shore on the latter out of an English merchant- ship, the 
 crew of which had mutinied against their captain, and could not prevail 
 upon him to join their party ; and in Nukahiwa he had lately married a 
 relation of the king's, by which he acquired great consideration ; so that 
 it would be very easy for him to be of assistance to them. At the same 
 time he warned them against a Frenchman, who had deserted from an 
 English merchant-ship, and had likewise resided here for so.me years. 
 This Frenchman he described as his bitterest enemy, who omitted nothing 
 to blacken him in the eyes of the king and the islanders, and had often, 
 he added, made attempts against his life. Here, too, the innate hatred 
 between the French and English appeared. Not content to disturb the 
 peace of the whole civilized world, even the inhabitants of the lately- 
 discovered islands of this ocean must feel the influence of their rivalship 
 without so much as knowing the origin of it. At noon anchored in Port 
 Anna Maria ; the small Island of Mutanoe, which forms the western 
 side of the entrance, bearing south-west thirty degrees, and Mattau, on 
 the east side, nearly south. 
 
 They had scarcely let go their anchor, when the ship was surrounded 
 by several hundred of the inhabitants, who brought cocoa nuts, bread 
 fruit, and bananas, for sale. The only things they could give them in 
 exchange were pieces of old iron hoops, four or five inches long, with 
 which they had supplied both ships for this purpose while at Cronstadt. 
 Such a piece was usually the price of five cocoa nuts and three or four of 
 the bread fruit ; but though they seemed to set a very high value ou 
 these, axes and hatchets were the chief objects of their wishes. They 
 showed a childish joy on receiving even a small piece of iron hoop, and 
 usually e-vinced their satisfaction by a loud laugh, displaying their newly- 
 acquired riches with an air of triumph to their less fortunate companions, 
 who swam round the ship. This expression of pleasure was perhaps a 
 proof of the little opportunity which they have hitherto had of procuring 
 this valuable metal ; and, indeed, they collected from the account of 
 Roberts, that only two small American merchant-ships had touched here 
 in the space of seven years. 
 
 At four in the afternoon the king and his suite came on board. His 
 name was Tapega Kettenowee. He was a very strong, well-made man, 
 with a thick and extremely fat neck, from forty to forty-five years of age. 
 His body was tattooed, with a dark colour approaching to black, so com- 
 pletely, that it even extended to spots on his head, from which his hair 
 had been cut away. He was in nowise to be distinguished from the 
 lowest of his subjects, being, with the exception of the tschiabu,* entirely 
 naked. The captain led him to his cabin, and gave him a knife and a 
 piece of red cloth about twenty ells long, which he immediately bound 
 round his loins. To his suite, consisting chiefly of his relations, he also 
 made some presents, although Roberts advised him not to be so generous, 
 as not one of them, not even the king, would ever make any return for 
 them At sunset all the men without exception went on shore ; but 
 about one hundred females still remained near the ship, round which they 
 had been swimming during five hours. In this time they had made use 
 of every art in their power to declare the object of their visit, nor could 
 
 * Tschiabu is the girdle which the savages wear round their waist ; in the 
 Sandwich Isles it is called maro. 
 
CAPtAlN KRUSENSTERN. 309 
 
 they doubt that their wishes were understood, since neither their panto- 
 niiine nor their attitudes could be mistaken. 
 
 At ten o'clock next day, accompanied by the ambassador and most of 
 the officers of the ship, the captain went on shore. Although, from the 
 friendly footing on which they stood with the king and his relations, and 
 the perfectly unsuspicious disposition of the islanders, they had every 
 reason to calculate upon an amicable reception, it was prudent, and in- 
 deed necessary, not to appear otherwise than well armed. They there- 
 fore took a boat besides the barge, of which all the men, as well as the 
 officers, were armed, the former with a brace of pistols and a sabre, and 
 six of them with fire-arms. The Englishman and Frenchman acted aa 
 interpreters. A vast concourse of people of both sexes were collected 
 on the beach, but the landing, owing to the heavy surf, was not effected 
 without difficulty. Although neither the king nor any of his relations 
 were among these people, they conducted themselves with great decency 
 and respect. After they had examined the water and found it good, 
 they directed their course toward a house not far from the beach, where 
 the king was waiting to receive them. About 500 paces from this house, 
 the king's uncle, who is at the same time his step-father, and is here al- 
 ways called the king's father, came to meet them. He was an old man 
 of seventy-five years of age, yet seemed to enjoy perfect health. His 
 eye was very brilliant, and the features of his countenance displayed the 
 marks of an intrepid and determined character. He was one of the 
 greatest warriors of his time, and was now suffering from a wound on 
 his eye, over which he wore a bandage. In his hand he held a long 
 staff, with which he endeavoured, but in vain, to keep back the crowd. 
 He took Krusenstern by the hand, and led him to a long narrow building, 
 in which the king's mother and all his relations of her sex were sealed 
 in a row, and appeared to be expecting them ; and they had scarcely en- 
 tered the precincts of this building, when the king likewise came, and 
 welcomed them with much familiarity and friendship. The people here 
 stood still, and separated in two bodies, the king's dwelling being tahbu. 
 The captain was forced to sit down in the middle of the royal ladies, 
 who all examined him with a great deal of curiosity, holding his hand 
 by turns, clasped within theirs, and only dropping it to examine his clothes, 
 the embroidery of his uniform, hat, &c. 
 
 Notwithstanding ail their exertions, they could not succeed in procuring 
 hogs. In three days they had got but two, of which one was a present 
 made in return for a parrot, and the other received in exchange for a 
 hatchet. On the 10th of May received word from the shore that a three- 
 masted ship was visible from the hills ; and as they imagined that this 
 ship must be the Neva, immediately sent a boat with an officer to bring 
 her into the bay. Captain Lisianskoy s-iid, that he had waited some 
 days at Easter Island in the hopes of finding them there ; that strong 
 westerly winds had prevented him from anchoring, but that he had sent 
 a boat to Cook's Bay, to procure some bananas and potatoes from the 
 natives. 
 
 A misunderstanding now taking place, the two captains set off at 
 eight o'clock, having sent their long-boat at seven for water. They land- 
 ed, accompanied by twenty men under arms, and their own party consisted 
 of more than twenty persons all armed, while the crews of the two long- 
 boats, both of which were fitted with a couple of one-pounder swivel 
 guns, consisted of eighteen men under the command of two officers. 
 They might therefore have bid the whole island defiance, in case of any 
 
400 VOlfAGES ROUND THE WOftLD. 
 
 hostile attempt against them, but nobody appeared on the beach at theii 
 landing. The king met them about 100 paces from his dwelling, whith- 
 er, after a hearty welcome, he accompanied them. The whole family 
 was assembled there, and seemed very much rejoiced at their visit ; in- 
 deed, they had reason to be so, for they received presents from every 
 one of the party, and the queen expressed particular satisfaction at a 
 small looking-glass which was given to her. They asked the king what 
 had induced him to spread a false report, which had well nigh destroyed 
 the harmony that had hitherto existed between them, and might have led 
 to consequences not likely to have proved to his advantage. He said, 
 that he had never feared they should use him ill ; btit that the French- 
 man had told him Krusenstern would put him in irons without fail unless 
 hogs were brought on board ; and this he had believed. They soon set 
 out on their return to the boats ; but could not, however, withstand the 
 request of the friendly Roberts, to visit his house ; nor did they regret 
 the little round they were obliged to make in order to get there. It was 
 built after the fashion of the island, was quite new, and stood in the 
 midst of a wood of cocoa trees. Upon one side flowed a small stream, 
 and upon the other, in the middle of a rock, was a spring of mineral 
 water. They all seated themselves round his house on the rocks, which 
 formed the banks of the rivulet, and refreshed themselves in the shade 
 of the lofty cocoa trees, after their walk, which, owing to the extreme 
 heat, had greatly fatigued them. About twenty of the islanders were 
 busied throwing down cocoa nuts from the trees, which others cleared 
 of the husks and broke with great skilfulness. The kernel quieted the 
 hunger they began to feel, and quenched their thirst with the fine cold 
 milk, which was extremely refreshmg. Roberts's wife, a pretty young 
 woman, of about eighteen years of age, seemed in some measure to 
 have departed from the custom of her country, and very much to her 
 advantage, for she had not rubbed her body over with cocoa oil, which, 
 although it gives great lustre to the skin, produces a very powerful smell. 
 
 The group of Washington Islands was discovered in the year 1791 
 by Captain Ingraham, of the American merchant-ship Hope, of Boston, 
 in his voyage from the Mendoza Islands to the north-west coast of Ame- 
 rica. A few weeks afterward they were again seen by Marchand, in 
 the French ship Le Solide. But the fact is, they all belong to the group 
 of the Marquesas, discovered by Mendana, in 1595. 
 
 The Nukahiwers are invariably of a large stature and well made ; 
 they are very muscular, with a long handsome neck, have a great regu- 
 larity of countenance, and an air of real goodness, which was not belied 
 by their dealings ; but when we consider the cruelties of which these 
 men are capable, the prejudice in their favour, which the beauty of their 
 person is very likely to create, soon vanishes, and their own countenance 
 seems to indicate nothing but apathy. An animated eye none of them 
 possess. By tattooing their bodies very much and rubbing them with 
 a dark colour, they acquire a black appearance ; otherwise, their natural 
 colour is clear; at least, that of the boys and women who were not tat- 
 tooed was so ; nor do they differ very much from the colour of the 
 Europeans, being only rather more yellow. Among the very handsome 
 people of this island, they observed two in particular, who excited the 
 admiration of them all. The one was a great warrior of Tayo Hoae, 
 and, at the same time, what, in the la.iguage of the country, is called 
 Fire-lighter to the king ; his name was Mau-ha-u, and he was perhapTsi 
 one of the handsomest men that ever existed ; he was six feet two inches 
 
CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 401 
 
 high, and every part of his body perfectly beautiful. The other was 
 Bauting, king of the vale of Schegua, who, notwithstanding his age, for 
 he certainly was not less than fifty, was still extremely handsome. The 
 women all looked well, at least nothing could be said against their coun- 
 tenances. A well-proportioned head, a face rather round than long, a 
 large sparkling eye, blooming colour, very good teeth, curled hair, which 
 they ornamented with a white band in a manner very becoming to them 
 all, and the remarkably clear colour of their bodies, may perhaps entitle 
 them to a preference over the inhabitants of the Sandwich, Society, and 
 Friendly Islands. 
 
 A very important member of the royal family is the fire-maker ; his 
 duty consists partly in being always near the king's person to execute his 
 orders : but the business wherein his master generally employs him is 
 of a nature perfectly characteristic of the monarch of Nukahiwa. On 
 quitting his house for any time, his fire-maker does not accompany him, 
 but must, in every sense, represent his person with the queen, who finds 
 in him a second husband during the absence of the first. He is the 
 guardian of her virtue, and his reward the enjoyment of that which he 
 has to protect. The kings of Nukahiwa probably have a' notion that it 
 is better to share with one, what would otherwise be divided among 
 several ; but perhaps the duty of fire-maker is only a royal luxury with 
 him. Ther herculean Mau-ha-u filled this post near the queen of Tayo 
 ^oae ; but he certainly did not merit the confidence of his sovereign, 
 for he appeared to be a very bad guardian of the morals of his wife. 
 
 It may easily be imagined that a people who find pleasure in eating 
 human flesh, will frequently wage war with their neighbours to procure 
 some of this delicacy, although there should be no other sufl5cient reason 
 for it ; and, in their art of war, there is a perfect similarity between the 
 character of these savages and of wild beasts. They seldom meet in 
 large parties in the field, but their usual mode of warfare is to be con- 
 stantly watching for, and secretly seeking to butcher their prey, which 
 they devour on the spot. He who evinces the greatest skill in these arts, 
 who can lie the longest on his belly perfectly motionless, who can breath 
 the lowest, run the swiftest, and spring with the greatest agility from one 
 precipice to another, acquires no less reputation ^monghis comrsfdes than 
 the brave and powerful Mau-ha-u. In all these attainments the French- 
 man particularly excelled, and he since frequently amused them with a 
 relation of his exploits, and of the numbers whom he had slain in this 
 mode of warfare ; entering into a particular detail of all the circumstances. 
 But he assured them, and even Roberts, his enemy, did him the justice to 
 acknowledge, that he had never eaten human flesh, always exchanging his 
 victims for hogs. It is with the natives of the neighbouring valleys, such 
 as Home, Schegua, and Hottyschewa, that those of Tayo Hoae wage a 
 continued warfare, as well as with the inhabitants of another valley far 
 inland. The warriors of Home, whose number is about 1000, have a 
 name peculiar to themselves, tai-pihs, which signifies warriors of the 
 great ocean ; with these tai-pihs the people of Tayo Hoae do not carry 
 on war by sea, but merely by land. The son of Kettenowee is married 
 to the daughter of the king of the tai-pihs ; and as she joined her hus- 
 band by water, the sea which divides these two valleys is tahbu, that is to 
 say, must not be contaminated by any blood. 
 
 Whenever one of the high priests of the valley dies, three human 
 bodies must be sacrificed to him. These are never chosen from among 
 the people Iq which the priest belonged, but must be taken from some of 
 
402 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD 
 
 the neighbours, and several canoes are immediately despatched to procure 
 them. Roberts was able to give but very little insight into the reliaious 
 opinions of his new countrymen, probably because their ideas are but 
 confused upon this head ; although, perhaps, he had not troubled himself 
 to obtain any knowledge of them. The following he described as the 
 usual funeral ceremonies, in which the spirit of their origin cannot be 
 mistaked : After the corpse is washed, it is laid upon a platform, both 
 being covered over with a piece of entire new stuff, and the next day 
 the family of the deceased gives a grand feast, inviting their best friends 
 and relations. To these, at which the priests must always be present, 
 the women are on no account allowed admittance ; they produce their 
 whole stock of hogs, (seldom eaten but upon these occasions,) of tarra root, 
 and of bread fruit ; and, as soon as the guests are assembled, they cut of the 
 hog's head to propitiate the gods, and obtain for the deceased a safe and 
 peaceable passage through the lower regions. This gift, which the priest 
 takes possession of, is secretly devoured by him, and he only leaves a 
 small piece of it under a stone. The friends or nearest relations of the 
 deceased must then watch for some months over the corpse, and rub it 
 constantly with cocoa oil, to prevent putrefaction. By this continued 
 application it becomes hard as a stone, and quite incorruptible. Twelve 
 months after the first feast, a second equally extravagant meal is given, 
 to thank the gods for having permitted the deceased to arrive safe in tho 
 other world. After this the corpse is broken into pieces, and the bones 
 are packed in a small box, made of the wood of the bread fruit tree, and 
 carried to the morai or burial-place, where no woman is allowed to ap- 
 proach under pain of death. 
 
 Roberts, although he appeared to be an enthusiast and of no settled 
 character, was a man of strorg understanding, and a good man. The 
 worst that his bitter enemy, the Frenchman, could say against him, was, 
 that he evinced no skill in stealing, and therefore was in constant danger 
 of dying of hunger. He had, however, by degrees acquired that esteem 
 from the savages, which reason must obtain from stupidity, and he had 
 mt)re influence over them than any of their most distinguished warriors. 
 To the king he had become particularly necessary, and, no doubt, he would 
 effect more good than the missionary Crook, who remained for some time 
 upon this island, was able to perform ; for the latter had no other idea 
 than that of converting the Nukahiwers to Christianity, without recollect- 
 ing that it was first necessary to make them men ; for this purpose 
 Roberts appears more proper, as well on account of the example he 
 afforded and of his activity, as the esteem which they universally bore 
 him, than either Crook or any other missionary whatever. He has built 
 a very neat house, and possesses a piece of land, which he cultivates 
 with care and diligence ; and he never fails, where it can be done, of 
 introducing improvements before unknown to them. From his own ac- 
 count, he led a happy independent life, and was only troubled by the 
 thoughts of being surrounded by cannibals, for which reason he was par- 
 ticularly fearful of the next war. They offered to convey him to the 
 Sandwich Islands, from whence he would easily find an opportunity of 
 getting to China, but he could not prevail on himself to quit his wife, who 
 during their stay bore him a son, and it is probable he will end his days 
 in Nukahiwa. 
 
 The information with regard to the population of the island is drawn 
 certainly from a very arbitrary estimation. But where no positive account 
 can be adduced, anything even approaching the truth becomes of value. 
 
CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 403 
 
 Tayo Hoae, according to Roberts, can send 800 warnors against its 
 enemies ; Home, 1000 ; Scbegua, 500 ; Maudayhas 1200 ; Hottyschewa, 
 to the south-west of Tayo Hoae, and another valley to the north-east, 
 have each 1200. These numbers Roberts mentioned at random, having 
 no positive information on the subject, but believing, he said, that they 
 were rather below than above the mark. The warriors, therefore, amount 
 to 5,900 ; and if we take three times that number for the women, children, 
 and old people, which is not too little, considering that their marriages 
 are very unproductive, the whole amount of the population is 17,700, or, 
 in round numbers, 18,000. 
 
 The two Europeans, who had both resided here for several years, 
 agreed in their assertions, that the natives were a cruel intractable people, 
 and, without even the exception of the female sex, very much addicted 
 to cannibalism. They described, as eye-witnesses, the barbarous scenes 
 that are acted, particularly in times of war ; the desperate rage with 
 which they fall upon their victims ; immediately tear off their head, and 
 sip their blood out of the skull with the most disgusting greediness, com- 
 pleting in this manner their horrible repast. In times of famine the men 
 butcher their wives and children and their aged parents ; they bake and 
 stew their flesh, and devour it with the greatest satisfaction. Some years 
 ago an American merchant-ship put into Port Anna Maria, and the cap- 
 tain, who was a Quaker, suffered his people to go on shore unarmed ; but 
 the natives no sooner perceived their defenceless condition, than they 
 assembled in order to attack and drag them into the mountains. Roberts 
 succeeded, with the greatest difficulty, and with the assistance of the 
 king, to whom he represented the treachery of their conduct and the 
 consequences it would infallibly bring upon the whole island, in rescuing 
 them out of the hands of these cannibals. 
 
 On the 18th of May they set sail, in very bad weather, from the Bay 
 of Tayo Hoae, or Anna Maria. On the 7th of June, at half-past eight, 
 saw land, and immediately perceived it to be Ov/aihi, distant about thirty- 
 six miles, bearing north-west, yet could not distinguish Mowna Roa. 
 After standing in to about six miles from the sl^ore, put the ship about, 
 and steered along the coast under nothing but topsails, heaving-to as soon 
 as they saw any canoes put off. Their cargoes, however, did not in the 
 least answer expectation. Some potatoes, half a dozen cocoa nuts, and 
 a small sucking-pig, were all they were able to procure out of six canoes ; 
 and these they did not obtain without difficulty and at a very high price, 
 as the venders would take nothing but cloth in payment, and they had not 
 a yard on board to dispose of. This unfortunate circumstance made 
 Krusenstern determine upon loosing no more time, and on quitting the 
 coast immediately for Kamtschatka, where he should arrive without fail 
 about the middle of July. Captain Lisianskey, whose time was not of 
 equal consequence to him, resolved, on the other hand, to run into Kara- 
 kakooa Bay for a few days, and then continue his voyage to Kodiac, At 
 daybreak, July 14, saw to the north a high mountainous land, which, from 
 its direction, must have been Shipunskoy-noss. About eleven next day 
 ran into Awatsha Bay, and at one anchored in the harbour of St. Peter 
 and St. Paul, after a very good passage of thirty-five days from Owaihi. 
 
 They did not find the Governor of Kamtschatka at the harbour of St. 
 Peter and St. Paul, his usual residence being at Niznei Karatskchatkoi, 
 about 700 wersts from thence. On the 12th of August he arrived, ac- 
 companied by his younger brother, who acted as his adjutant, and by 
 Captain Feodoroff and sixty men, whom he had brought with him at tho 
 
404 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 request of M. de ResanofF, and it was settled that they should sail in a 
 week after his arrival. On the 29th of August the ship was quite ready 
 for sea, and on the 30th left the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul. About 
 noon, September 30th, the weather assumed an appearance that left no 
 doubt of what would soon follow. The waves ran mountains high from 
 the south-east ; the sun was of a dead pale colour, and was soon conceal- 
 ed behind the clouds, which flew with rapidity from the same quarter ; 
 and the wind, which increased gradually, rose by one o'cloclc to such a 
 height as to prevent their taking in their topsails and courses without the 
 greatest difficulty and danger, the tackle, though almost all new, mostly 
 giving way. About three o'clock in the afternoon the storm had increased 
 to such a degree as to rend all the storm-sails, the only ones set. Nothing 
 could equal the violence of the gale. . Much as they had heard of the ty- 
 phous on the Chinese and Japanese coasts, this exceeded all expectation. 
 It would fall within the province of the poet to describe it properly. 
 About six o'clock, October lOth, saw the land of Japan, bearing west- 
 north-west, distant nearly forty-five miles. The country in general ap- 
 peared to be very mountainous, and the hills, among which were some 
 very lofty peaks, were in double and sometimes in three and four rows. 
 A short time before sunset, on the 5th of October, as they sailed parallel 
 with the south-west coast of Satzuma, saw in the north-west a high land ^ 
 looking like an island, which they afterward learned was the Island of y!^ 
 Meacsima. The land that surrounds Satzuma Bay is very mountainous, 
 and a high land is particularly distinguishable to the northward, upon 
 which runs a line of mountains of a wavy form, having a high peak in 
 the centre. To the north-westward of these there is a double peak, ad- 
 joining to a table-mountain, from whence a constant smoke ascends. 
 This, from its description, seems to be the Unga mountain, so remarkable 
 during the persecution of the Christians in Japan ; for it was to this place 
 that the unfortunate enthusiasts, to whom the Jesuits had imparted their 
 religion, were brought and afterward plunged, if they persisted in not re- 
 turning to the religion of their forefathers, into the crater of the volcano. 
 From Cape Nomo to the entrance of Nangasaki there were several small 
 bights behind the rocks, bordered by the most beautiful valleys. The 
 land in general bore decided proofs of the most diligent cultivation, 
 affording a beautiful prospect, improved by very long avenues of trees ; 
 behind the valleys bordering on the coast the land to the northward formed 
 itself into a chain of mountains, A boat now came alongside, having a 
 Japanese officer on board, which, after putting some questions, immediate- 
 ly returned ; nearly two hours after another boat came, and continued 
 with them until about half-past five, when they came to an anchor at the 
 entrance of Nangasaki Bay. 
 
 Every one knows the insulting jealousy which is observed toward 
 strangers in Japan ; the Russians had no right to expect a more favoura- 
 ble treatment than other nations ; yet, as they had an ambassador on board, 
 who was sent merely with assurances of friendship, by the monarch of a 
 powerful empire, bordering upon these people so suspicious in their poli- 
 tics, they hoped not to be received unfavourably. Although they expected 
 to be allowed more liberty than the Dutch enjoy here, they found them- 
 selves greatly mistaken. The first proof of their jealousy was evinced in 
 their taking from them all their powder and fire-arms, even to the fowling- 
 pieces belonging to the officers, among which were some of considerable 
 ▼alue ; and it was not until after four months' constant entreaties and 
 representations that these latter were returned to them in order to 
 
CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERfT 406 
 
 be cleaned, though many of them were entirely destroyed by the time 
 they were restored. The officers were indeed allowed to retain their 
 swords, a favour which was never shown to the Dutch, and the soldiers 
 were permitted to keep their muskets and bayonets. They were not only 
 forbidden to go on shore, but not even allowed to row about within a short 
 distance of the ship ; nor was it until after a six weeks' negotiation that a 
 place was granted them, at a trifling distance, as a walk, and this only in 
 consideration of the pretended illness of the ambassador. This place was 
 close to the shore, in a confined bay, and was shut in on the land side by a 
 high wall of bamboos ; and although its whole length did not exceed 100 
 paces, and its width at the most was forty, there were two watch-houses 
 erected in its immediate vicinity. One single tree, but not a blade of 
 grass, adorned this promenade, which was entirely upon a rocky ground. 
 As soon as any boat put off from the ship for Kibatsch, for so this pro- 
 menade was called, a fleet of ten or fifteen vessels immediately put them- 
 selves in motion, surrounding the boat on all sides, and in this same 
 manner it was conducted back again. 
 
 The acquaintance formed on the first day of their arrival with the cap- 
 tains of the Dutch ships made a continuation of their intercourse very 
 desirable, bat the Russians were never allowed to visit them, nor was any 
 Dutchman permitted to go on board their ship. When the Dutch ships 
 sailed, they were ordered upon no account to send a boat off to them ; and 
 when Krusenstern wished Captains Musquetier and Belmark a happy voy- 
 age, as they passed by, and inquired after their health, the only answer he 
 received was a sign with the speaking-trumpet ; for which the chief of 
 the Dutch factory apologized in a letter to the ambassador, saying, that 
 the captains had been most positively forbidden to utter the least sound 
 in answer to their questions. When the ambassador at length received 
 permission to land, a considerable building was appointed for his residence ; 
 but the seven towers of Constantinople were hardly so well guarded as their 
 Megasaky, for this was the name of the Russian Dezima. The house 
 was situated upon a neck of land so near the sea, that on the south and 
 east sides the water at high-tide came close under the windows. When 
 we say windows, this word can scarcely apply to a square space about a 
 foot wide, provided with a double lattice-work, and which therefore ad- 
 mitted but very little light into the room. 
 
 They steered about four o'clock in the afternoon, in company with a 
 Japanese boat, toward Nangasaki, and anchored about half-past five at 
 the entrance of the harbour. The same evening, about ten o'clock, they 
 anchored, received the visit of several magistrates, or banjos, as they are 
 called in Japan, from Nangasaki, who, without waiting for an invitation, 
 walked at once into the cabin, and seated themselves on the carpet. The 
 attendants of these great men consisted of about twenty persons, among 
 whom were several Japanese interpreters of the Dutch language. 
 The opperhoofd, or director of the Dutch factory. Mynheer Van Doeff, 
 was also brought along with the banjos ; but it was upward of an hour 
 before he was permitted to come on board. He had scarcely entered the 
 cabin with his suite, consisting of his secretary, the two captains of the 
 Dutch ships that were here, and a Baron Pabst, when they were all obliged 
 to remain during several minutes in an inclined posture, which they 
 were called upon to do by a most insolent order from the interpreter; 
 " Mynheer Opperhoofd, compliment voor de Opper Banjosy This sub- 
 missive, and at the same time degrading, attention was not answered even 
 by a nod. The compliments, as they are called, of the Dutch are some 
 
406 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 thing between the bows of the Europeans and Japanese, which last consist 
 in throwing yourself flat on the ground, touching the earth with your head, 
 and crouching backward and forward according as you may be spoken to 
 by your superior. 
 
 The extraordinary respect with which the interpreters spoke to the ban- 
 jos gave at first a very high idea of the character of these magistrates, 
 whose rank they afterward learned was very inconsiderable ; and that 
 nothing but a commission from the governor imparts to them a temporary 
 elevation. Whenever an interpreter had anything to translate, he cast 
 himself on his hands and knees before the banjos ; and in this attitude, 
 with his head hanging down, he made a hissing noise two or three times 
 with his mouth, as if he were inhaling the air that surrounded his master. 
 He then reported to the banjos, in a tone of voice scarcely audible, and 
 mixed with repeated sighings, in short, broken sentences, the conversation 
 which in Dutch had lasted several minutes. If a Japanese was addressed 
 by a banjos he crouched to him, bowed his head to the ground, repeating 
 constantly the monosyllable Eh ! eh ! intending to signify, " I under- 
 , stand." The banjos always conducted themselves with great dignity ; 
 they never laughed, but occasionally showed their satisfaction by a smile. 
 
 The clothing of the banjos, as well as of the interpreters, consisted of 
 a short upper garment with very wide sleeves, and under this a complete 
 gown, reaching quite down to their feet, and fastened round the neck, 
 and very similar to the female dress in Europe, except in being much 
 narrower from the hips downward, so as to render it extremely difficult 
 for them to walk ; indeed, they never walk but when they are absolutely 
 compelled to do so. This is the usual dress of all the Japanese ; and the 
 only difference between the clothes of the rich and of the poor is, that 
 those of the former are made of silk, while the latter are clad in coarse 
 tvoollen stuffs ; the upper garment is generally black, but there are some 
 of different colours, and the lower dress is mostly of mixed colours. 
 Every one has his family arms worked into his clothes, in different places, 
 about the size of a half dollar, a practice usual to both sexes ; and in this 
 manner any person may be recognised, and the family to which he be- 
 longs easily ascertained. A young lady wears her father's arms until 
 after her marriage, when she assumes those of her husband. The greatest 
 mark of honour which a prince or a governor can confer upon any ono 
 :*s to give him a cloak with his arms upon it, the person having such a 
 one wearing his own arms upon his under dress ; and the ambassador 
 was frequently told how supreme a happiness would be conferred upon 
 him, if the emperor was to present him with a garment bearing the im- 
 perial arms. 
 
 About four o'clock the next afternoon a present, consisting of fish, 
 rice, and fowls, was brought on board from the governor. At midnight 
 they weighed anchor, and were towed by about sixty boats to a new an- 
 chorage, which was nearly two miles and a half off. They could not but 
 admire the order with which this was effected ; the flotilla divided itself 
 into five lines, of twelve or eighteen boats each, which kept their places 
 so regularly, that they were not once broken ; and, notwithstanding a 
 foul wind, they advanced at the rate of two miles an hour. About four 
 in the morning they anchored in twenty-five fathoms water, and were in- 
 stantly surrounded by thirty-two guard-boats, which formed a circle round 
 the ship that no vessel was allowed to break through. 
 
 Their arrival at Nangasaki was too important an event in Japan for 
 the court not to be informed of the most trifling circumstances ; so that, 
 
CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 407 
 
 after each visit of the^nterpreters to the ship, a courier was despatched 
 with an account of every word and gesture, which frequently were of a 
 nature to increase the suspicion and injure the pride of this jealous and 
 haughty people. They afterward learned that the cubo, or western em- 
 peror, could determine nothing on this momentous occasion without con- 
 sulting the dairy ; and that he had even sent an embassy concerning 
 them, to ascertain the wishes of this important personage, whom the 
 Japanese, although he has no executive authority, hold in the greatest 
 veneration on account of his religious character. 
 
 On the 17th of December the ambassador was conveyed on shore, for 
 which purpose the Prince of Fisen sent his own boat, a vessel exceeding 
 in size (being 120 feet long) and magnificence everything they had 
 hitherto seen. The walls and ceilings of the numerous cabins were all 
 varnished over in the handsomest manner, and the stairs, which were of 
 red wood, were polished so highly as to have the appearance of lacker. 
 The decks were covered with mats and the most costly carpets ; the 
 curtains to the doors were of rich stuffs ; and the whole boat was hung 
 with double rows of silks of different colours. As the ambassador stepped 
 on board, the Russian imperial standard was hoisted and waved together 
 with the flag of the Prince of Fisen ; and his guard, which accompanied him 
 on board the vessel, took their place on the upper deck, close to the standard. 
 
 On the 19th of February the ambassador received an official notice that 
 the emperor had sent a person, attended by eight .nobles, to Nangasaki, 
 with full powers to treat with him. The interpreters did not exactly tell 
 him that he would not now have any occasion to travel to Jeddo, yet this 
 was easily to be inferred. The person whom the emperor had sent was 
 of the highest rank, and, according to the expression made use of by the 
 interpreters, was permitted to see the emperor's feet, though never to 
 exalt his looks higher ; (an honour which even the Governor of Nangasaki 
 could not boast ;) and it was not to be supposed that so great a character 
 would be sent merely to accompany the ambassador to Jeddo. 
 
 It was only, however, on the 12th of March that Skeyseima, the chief 
 interpreter, acquainted the ambassador that he would not be permitted to 
 travel to Jeddo ; and that the Japanese plenipotentiary would arrive in 
 ten or fifteen days in Nangasaki, after which the ship must return to 
 Kamtschatka as soon as she could possibly be fitted for sea. 
 
 On the 30th of March the plenipotentiary arrived from Jeddo. The 
 negotiations, with respect to the ceremonies of the audience, which were 
 conducted with great warmth on both sides, commenced on the 3d of 
 April, when it was concluded that the ambassador should pay the re- 
 presentative of the Japanese emperor an European, and not a Japanese, 
 compliment. 
 
 On the 4th of April the ambassador had his first audience, to which 
 he was conveyed in a large boat, adorned with flags and curtains. His 
 suite consisted of five persons, Major Frederici, Captain Feodoroff, Lieu- 
 tenant Koscheleff, Dr. Langsdortf, and Counsellor Fosse, besides a ser- 
 geant, who carried the standard ; and he landed at a place to the north 
 of Dezima, which the interpreters called Mussel Trapp. On this occa- 
 sion merely an exchange of compliments took place, and a few insignifi- 
 cant questions were put to him. The second audience was conducted 
 with the same ceremonies, and here the negotiation terminated ; the 
 necessary documents being dehvered into his hands, which contained an 
 order that no Russian ship should again come to Japan ; and the pre- 
 sents, and even the letter from the Emperor of Russia, were all refused. 
 
408 VOYAGES ROUND tHfe WORLD. 
 
 On the 16th of April the ambassador had his last audience of tho 
 plenipotentiary ; immediately after which they began to bring the cannon, 
 anchors, cables, and provisions on board. The satisfaction which the 
 prospect of soon quitting Japan occasioned to the ship's company, was 
 evinced in their activity, and the working sixteen hours a day, to get the 
 ship in readiness. 
 
 At four in the morning of the 17th of April, they hove in their first an- 
 chor ; and at five the next morning sailed out of the bay, with a moderate 
 breeze at east-south-east, very glad to be released from so little honoura- 
 ble confinement, which might have been the prelude to a harder fate. 
 At daybreak, on the 21st, perceived the land, and they held a course 
 parallel with the Island of Tsus. The north extremity of this island at 
 that time bore west by north, and a high flat mountain, not far from this 
 point, south-west 85 degrees ; at one the north end of the island bore 
 nearly west. On the 1st of May perceived again the land of Japan bear- 
 ing east-north-east, at the distance of about eighteen or twenty miles': it 
 had quite the appearance of an island, and they had no doubt of its being 
 that of Iwo-sima, laid down in the charts nearly in 39 degrees, between 
 Cape Sangar and Jacata Bay ; the next day they were convinced that 
 it was no island, but a promontory projecting very much to the west, and 
 distinguishable by a high mountain, with a rounded summit lying in the 
 centre of it. 
 
 In latitude 40 degrees 50 minutes and longitude 219 degrees 54 minutes 
 perceived a town, with a port and several vessels lying at anchor ; the 
 valley in which it was built appeared in the highest degree cultivated. 
 Corn-fields, meadows in which a considerable quantity of cattle were 
 grazing, and groups of trees, apparently more the work of art than of 
 nature, beautified this district. About five o'clock four large boats put 
 off from the town, which then bore south-east, and rowed toward them in 
 the greatest hurry. The number of people, of whom there were twenty- 
 five or thirty in each boat, rendered their intention rather suspicious ; but 
 though it was scarcely probable that they could be hostile, considering 
 the well-known strictness of the Japanese government, still they thought 
 it prudent to load the guns and put the soldiers under arms. By six 
 o'clock they overtook them ; they called to them in Japanese, requesting 
 they would come on board ; but of this they appeared afraid. After 
 having sailed twice round the ship, and considered it with the greats. -t 
 attention, they hauled up their sails, and returned toward the town. On 
 the 4th they were nearly opposite the middle of the Straits of Sangar, in 
 which, even from the mast-head, they were unable to perceive any land ; 
 but on both sides, to the eastward of Cape Sangar and Cape Nadeshda, 
 were several promontories. The line of coast from Cape Nadeshda to 
 Cape SineJiO is north-west, the distance between the two being eighteen 
 miles. Between these, in a large but open bay, is the town of Matumay, 
 whose name the Japanese have extended to the whole Island of Jeso : 
 it is of considerable size, and the residence of the governor ; but is the 
 only town of any magnitude in the whole island. Before they had wea- 
 thered a long point of Jeso, they perceived a boat with four of the natives 
 rowing off They continued about a quarter of an hour alongside the 
 ship, but could not be prevailed upon to come on board, and at length 
 returned. However, they had scarcely cast anchor when several paid 
 them a visit, who immediately came on board without the least signs of 
 fear. As they came on deck they fell on their knees, laid their two hands 
 on their heads, passing them down their faces and their bodies, at the 
 
CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 409 
 
 came time that they made a low bow. On the 1 1th, at nine in the morning, 
 some Japanese arrived with an officer at their head, in a large boat, rowed 
 by the natives of the island. The officer appeared extremely alarmed at 
 their arrival, requesting most earnestly they would immediately sail from 
 hence. The Japanese discipline exists even here, the farthest boundary 
 of their possessions, in all its force. The officer could in nowise be per- 
 suaded to accept a trifling present which the ambassador offered him, and 
 even refused to take a glass of Japanese sakky, their favourite beverage. 
 
 They now steered toward Aniwa Bay ; the west side of which is 
 throughout very mountainous, and even now was covered in part with 
 snow. At ten, next morning, Krusenstern went with the ambassador on 
 board a Japanese ship, where they were handsomely received, and treated 
 with sakky, rice bread, and tobacco. The manner in which fish are 
 caught here is a sufficient demonstration of their abundance ; as they do 
 not even employ a net for this purpose, but dip for them with a pail du- 
 ring the ebb. This article is so important, and is become so necessary 
 to the poor people in the north of Japan, that the most absolute orders of 
 their government could not prevent them from coming to Aniwa Bay to 
 procure them, let the possessors of Aniwa be who they would ; and in all 
 probability they might obtain them at a much more reasonable rate from 
 Europeans than from their avaricious banjos. 
 
 The Ainos, or natives of Jeso, are rather below the middle stature, 
 being at the most five feet two or four inches high, of a dark, nearly black, 
 complexion, with a thick, bushy beard, black, rough hair, hanging straight 
 down ; and, excepting the beard, they have the appearance of the Kam- 
 tschatdales, only that their countenance is much more regular. The women 
 are sufficiently ugly : their colour, which is equally dark, their coal-black 
 hair combed over their faces, blue-painted lips, and tattooed hands, added 
 to no remarkable cleanliness in their clothing, do not give them any great 
 pretensions to loveliness. The characteristic quaUty of an Aino is good- 
 ness of heart, which is expressed in the strongest manner in his coun- 
 tenance ; and, so far as they were enabled to observe their actions, they 
 fully answered this expression. Their dress consists chiefly of the skins 
 of tame dogs and seals ; but some were in a very diffisrent attire, which 
 resembled the Parkis of the Kamtschatdales, and is, properly speaking, a 
 white shirt worn over their other clothes. In Aniwa Bay they were all 
 cl ..d in furs ; their boots were made of seal-skins, and in these likewise 
 the women were invariably clothed. 
 
 On the 28th they had a high wind from west-north-west, which in- 
 creased toward evening to a storm, and, conceiving themselves to be but 
 only a. short distance from the Kuriles, lay-to under a reefed topsail and 
 storm-sails. Next day the wind had become so moderate that they 
 were enabled to carry all sail ; and at eight o'clock perceived, at a short 
 distance, a high peak, which must have been the twelfth island, or that 
 called Matua. The sirait between these two, from the description of the 
 Kuriles in Pallas's new northern editions, is thirty miles wide, and per- 
 fectly safe ; but in Sarytscheff's chart it is only twenty. At two in the 
 afternoon of the 3d of June discovered the coast of Kamtschatka. The 
 wind continued moderate from the south-east, and it was not until the 
 6th that they cast anchor in the harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul, forty- 
 eight days after leaving Nangasaki. 
 
 On the 5th of July Krusenstern proceeded from this harbour to examine 
 what was called Sachalin Island, but which is now known to be a penin- 
 sula of Tartary. The narrative affords only nautical details, of n© general 
 
 35 
 
410 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 interest whatever ; on the north part of it were found Tartar inhabitants, 
 and on the south Japanese, each of which seem to have usurped their 
 authority from the Ainos, or proper natives. On the 30th of August re- 
 turned to Kamtschaika, where their speedy return excited some surprise 
 and fear. 
 
 The first prospect of St. Peter and St. Paul might raise in the mind of 
 a person newly arrived, and ignorant of this Russian estabUshment, the 
 idea of its being a colony founded a few years, but recently abandoned. 
 Nothing is visible here that could at all persuade any one of its being in- 
 habited by civilized people : not only Awatsha Bay, but the three ad- 
 joining ones, are entirely forlorn and uninhabited ; nor is the beautiful 
 harbour of St. Peter and St. Paul enlivened by a single boat. Instead ol 
 this, the shores are strewed with stinking fish, among which a number ol 
 half-starved dogs are seen wallowing and contending for possession. It 
 is perfectly in vain that you look about, upon landing, for even one well- 
 built house : m vain does the eye seek a road, or even a well-beaten path, 
 along which a person may walk in safety to the town : no garden, no 
 meadow, no plantation nor enclosure of any kind, indicative of the least 
 cultivation ; the only things to be perceived are a few huts, mostly m a 
 decayed state, Balagans and Jurien. Instead of bridges over the few 
 small brooks that flow from the neighbouring mountains into the valley 
 where the town stands, are merely planks laid across them, and these 
 only passable with the greatest attention. Five or six cows feeding in the 
 vicinity of the houses, and innumerable dogs lying about in holes, which 
 they dig as resting-places and as a shelter against the flies, render it, if 
 not impossible, at least extremely dangerous, to walk after dark. 
 
 Those who have resided several years in the interior of the country 
 concur in the opinion of the climate of the north, but especially of the 
 middle provinces of Kamtschatka being infinitely superior to the sou- 
 thern parts, particularly near Werchnoy and on the banks of the Kam- 
 tschatka River, where the soil is invariably very fruitful. The length of the 
 winter is no obstacle to cultivation ; it reigns equally long in the northern 
 provinces of Russia and in Siberia, where the vegetation is so extremely 
 rapid, that, notwithstanding the shortness of the summer, several spe- 
 cies of corn are brought to perfection. In the interior of Kamtschatka 
 many kinds of vegetables are cultivated, and every sort of corn ; but not 
 a sufficiency for the use of the inhabitants and of the military. As to the 
 climate of Kamtschatka, it is not so bad as it is represented ; that the 
 frequent fogs prevent any vegetables from coming to perfection is merely 
 an excuse made by the inhabitants in order not to work, their indolence 
 knowing no bound, the immoderate use of spirits rendering them incapa- 
 ble of every exertion ; for the officers who are garrisoned there, and who 
 have laid out gardens for themselves, produce (with the exception of 
 peas and beans) almost every kind of vegetable necessary for the table, 
 and, indeed, in such quantity, that they were enabled to supply the Na- 
 deshda with a considerable stock. If, therefore, the cultivation of these 
 plants succeede in two or three gardens, it is very evident that every 
 inhabitant, every soldier, might obtain a supply of cabbages, carrots, and, 
 at any rate, of potatoes for his own use, sufficient in some degree to se- 
 cure him against the scurvy, so common here in the winter months, from 
 the total want of vegetable and animal food. The reason why this is not 
 done is, that they do not begin to cultivate their gardens until the early 
 part of July, so that the seeds do not come to anything before the end of 
 that month. If the possessor of a garden, or, to speak more correctly, 
 
CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 41 1 
 
 any industrious person, (for it is open to every one to cultivate as much 
 land as he pleases,) were to begin to till his ground in May, there is no 
 doubt but that he might furnish his table throughout the summer, not 
 only with salads, radishes, cucumbers, &c., but also with cabbage, which 
 they obstinately refuse to plant, and peas and beans in perfection. At an 
 ostrog, or small village in Awatsha, near the mouth of the river of that 
 name, the captain saw, in the month of June, a small garden in blossom, 
 at the very same time that they were maintaining, at St. Peter and St. 
 Paul, that it was still too early to plant ; because they have never been 
 in the habit of doing so before the month of July. 
 
 It may not be superfluous to say something on the mode of living of 
 the Russians in Kamtschatka, which will account for the great mortality 
 that reigns there. There is scarcely any difference between the life of 
 the officer, the merchant, the priest, or the soldier ; the one may, indeed, 
 possess more money than the other ; but as money is not held here in any 
 estimation, this naturally produces a great equality in their rank, at least 
 in their mode of living. Nor does this prejudice the discipline of the 
 troops ; the soldier feels less than any one the distress that reigns in 
 Kamtschatka, not only because the Russian soldier is accustomed from 
 his infancy to forego the comforts of life, (and he only then feels the 
 hardship of his lot when he does not meet with that indulgence which is 
 due from the officer to him, or experiences any injustice in the service,) 
 but because the soldiery there have an opportunity of enriching themselves 
 which is not open to the officers, and there are at this time many who 
 possess several houses. In the winter, for instance, when they are not 
 upon duty, they are allowed to go sable-hunting, and a soldier will verj 
 frequently earn from three to five hundred roubles in the course of the 
 season ; but as most of them are unmarried, and can purchase nothing 
 but spirits for their money, their earnings are as speedily squandered. 
 
 There can be no doubt that the married men, at least, would make a 
 better use of their money if any opportunity were afforded them ; for a 
 great change was very soon observable in the dress of the people of St. 
 Peter and St. Paul, especially of the women, after the arrival of the Na- 
 deshda. How easy would it be to supply Kamtschatka with every neces- 
 sary, by sending a ship there annually, direct from any Russian European 
 port ; the prices of every article would not only fall several hundreds per 
 cent., in the same manner as spirits fell shortly after their arrival from 
 twenty to sixty roubles the stof, and sugar from seven roubles to one and 
 a half the pound, but even the north-eastern part of Siberia might be sup- 
 plied at a much lower price with a variety of foreign goods, from St. Peter 
 and St, Paul itself, than it can by an overland carriage across the whole 
 of Russia and Siberia. It may serve as a proof of what has been here 
 asserted, that several articles put on board the Nadeshda by the Ameri- 
 can company were sent from thence to Ochotsk for sale. The difficulty 
 of conveyance from the European provinces of Russia to Ochotsk, and 
 from thence to Kamtschatka, has hitherto been assigned as the reason 
 why the inhabitants of this province are not only suffered to want all the 
 comforts of life, but even many of the necessaries. Gin is the only article 
 which the merchants never suffer to be wanted. The propensity to 
 strong liquors is greater there than at other places, and is besides more 
 pardonable, as the merchants endeavour by every means to keep it up ; 
 and a bout of drinkmg with some of their companions (which is seldom 
 done at less expense than fifty roubles) is the only means which they have 
 of disposing of their troublesome, but hard-earned, winnings. 
 
412 ' VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 Bread and salt are two articles invariably possessed by the poorest 
 beggar in Europe ; but in Kamtschatka, where, owing to the increased 
 number of the military, the consumption of bread is very considerable, 
 and the conveyance is so very difficult and expensive, the soldier obtains 
 only half his ration in flour, and the other half in money, yet never to an 
 amount sufficient to enable him to purchase it ; for the merchant of 
 Kamtschatka will not import flour, because it is frequently injured during 
 the journey, by which means the cost is sacrificed, while, on the contrary, 
 gin is always sure to produce a clear and immediate profit ; and flour has 
 no established price at Kamtschatka, although it is generally estimated 
 at ten roubles the pud. The soldier's pay is never sufficient to purchase 
 it at this rate ; and it would be infinitely better for him if he received 
 bis flour in kind ; nor can it be imagined that there would ever be a 
 superfluity of this article in Kamtschatka, not only because the soldier 
 does not actually receive his customary schtschy and meat, but also be- 
 cause the flour is very much injured by the length of the overland con- 
 veyance in leathern skins, and the full delivery can never be baked. This 
 is likewise the case with grits. Fish they never experience the want of, 
 and during the summer season it afTords them a wholesome and agreeable 
 nourishment ; but in winter they are reduced to eat it in a dried state, (in 
 which condition it is called jukula, in Kamtschatka,) and without anything 
 to relish it ; and such diet, when long continued, cannot but be extremely 
 injurious to health. The scarcity of salt is still greater than that of bread : 
 on their arrival a few pounds of salt were considered as a valuable pre- 
 sent ; and great as was their partiality for spirits, those who brought fish, 
 berries, or game, were infinitely more thankful for a little of the former 
 than when they rewarded their labours with gin, which they scarcely 
 ever gave to them. If there were no want of salt, and it were sold at a 
 just and reasonable price, the inhabitants would not be compelled to eat 
 their fish in a dried state ; salt fish would at any rate prove an agreeable 
 change ; and how many other occasions are there for this most necessary 
 article. Every soldier receives a pound of salt monthly, but the Kam- 
 tschatdale gets none. In the vicinity of St Peter and St. Paul there 
 were two salt-pans, which once produced a sufficiency for the comsump- 
 tion of whole of Kamtschatka, but they have both been suffered to go to 
 ruin for some years past ; probably because the conveyance of the kettles 
 and other necessary articles, by laud, was considered as too difficult. 
 
 On their arrival a pailful of very bad gin cost ] 60 roubles, and a stof 
 twenty. This price was estabhshed by the actual governor ; for, previous 
 to his time, the merchants, whose avarice is unbounded, and who were 
 well assured that the propensity to gin-drinking would not be diminished 
 by any exorbitance of price, had already increased it to more than 300 
 roubles the pailful. The price of sugar is usually from four to five roubles 
 the pound, but often rises to seven ; tobacco, five roubles ; butter and salt 
 one and one and a half roubles the pound. Soap, candles, &c., are seldom 
 to be had under two roubles the pound. Many other necessary articles 
 of housekepping are in a like proportion ; but it is seldom that even the 
 greatest necessaries are to be procured. ' Rum, brandy, wine, coflfee, 
 spices, vinegar, mustard, oil, rice, flour, butter, and other similar articles, 
 which are to be met with in the poorest villages of Russia, are never im- 
 ported for sale ; neither are any of those necessary for clothing, with the 
 exception of some very coarse linen, silk handkerchiefs, and blue nankeen. 
 The officers procure from Irkutsk the cloth and other things requisite for 
 their uniforms, but always at a very expensive rate. Slack bread, and 
 
CAPTAIN KRUSENSTERN. 413 
 
 fish dressed without sauce or spice, without salt, vinegar, or pepper, are 
 the only provisions which the officers, as well as the men, are able, for a 
 constancy, to set upon their tables. There is nothing a hardy soldier will 
 not endure so long as he is in good health ; but if he falls sicks, to what 
 a wretched, miserable, helpless condition is he reduced. No physician, 
 no medicine, no reviving draught, nor strengthening diet, are to be pro- 
 cured at St. Peter and St. Paul ; he cannot even struggle against death, 
 which seizes him in this most painful condition. 
 
 At St. Peter and St. Paul the number of horned cattle amounted to 
 ten cows and, perhaps, as many young heifers ; there was, consequently, 
 no butter, and very little milk. It would be extremely easy to support 
 some hundred head there, as not only close to St. Peter and St. Paul, but 
 on the banks of the Awatsha River, there is plenty of the finest grass, if 
 there were a sufficiency of men to collect a quantity of hay equal to the 
 support of so large a flock during a long winter, independent of the mili- 
 tary, who, indeed, constitute the greater part of the inhabitants, and are 
 so much employed in other works. The breeding of hogs is difficult, 
 owing to the scarcity of corn ; but it would be easier to have sheep, goats, 
 and poultry, the former requiring nothing but good hay. Although m the 
 vicinity of St. Peter and St. Paul they met with no short delicate grass, 
 there can be no doubt that these species exist in these pzu-ts. 
 
 Most of the inhabitants suffer from scurvy throughout the winter. Of 
 five people whom they had brought as passengers to Kamtschatka, and 
 who had been in perfect health during the whole voyage, they found, on 
 their return from Japan, only one in good health, the rest having suffered 
 very much during the winter from this disorder. The prospect of any in- 
 crease of the inhabitants of Kamtschatka was very much diminished, jiot 
 only by the smallness of the number of the remaining Russians and Kam- 
 tschatdales, but by that of the women bearing no kind of proportion to the 
 men. At St. Peter and St. Paul, where the number of inhabitants, in- 
 cluding the military, amounts to one hundered and fifty or one hundred 
 and eighty persons, there are not twenty- five females. 
 
 The Kamtschatdales never inhabit the towns built by the Russians, but 
 live scattered about the interior of the country, in small villages, called 
 ostrogs, of different dimensions. Since the last epidemic disorder, in the 
 years 1800 and 1801, during which 5,000 Kamtschatdales perished, it is 
 very rare to meet more than fifteen or twenty persons in an ostrog ; in 
 many there are scarcely the half of this number, although there may be 
 others where the population is more extensive. Such an ostrog is under 
 the immediate command of a tayon, or chief, who is chosen from among 
 the inhabitants, and whose character is similar to that of a starost, or 
 elder, in the Russian villages. Under him he has an officer, who bears the 
 title of jessaul, and who, properly speaking, holds the executive authority 
 of the ostrog, as the tayon does no more than deliver his orders to him. 
 In the absence of the tayon the jessaul assumes his place, and the eldest 
 Kamtschatdale in the ostrog takes upon him that of the jessaul. The 
 tayon's power is considerable, since it even extends to the inflicting of 
 corporal punishments, though these must never exceed twenty lashes. 
 They generally select as tayon an active Kamtschatdale, who has dis- 
 tinguished himself by his good conduct. His duty consists, besides the 
 discharge of the internal regulations of his ostrog, in collecting the best 
 sables, which each Kamtschatdale pays annually as a tribute, and carry- 
 ing them, sealed up, to the town, where they are examined in the presence 
 of certain magistrates, and taxed by a person authorized by the crown 
 
 35» 
 
414 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 The amount of the duties to be paid by the ostrog in then deducted from 
 the value of the sables, and whatever there is exceeding it is paid in money 
 to the tayon, who divides it proportionally among the inhabitants of his 
 ostrog The annual taxes of the Kamtschatdales amount, exclusive of 
 the capitation tax, to about three roubles, which, however, are not paid 
 in money, but in sables, in the manner above described. 
 
 In the winter they are obliged to conduct travellers and couriers from 
 one ostrog to another ; they supply the dogs of those who travel with 
 jukula ; they also lodge the travellers ; this, however, they are not obliged 
 to do. This hospitable people has, of its own accord, engaged to lodge 
 every traveller, and to feed his dogs without demanding any remuneration 
 In every ostrog there is a supply of fish set apart for this purpose. In 
 general, the governor and all officers keep dogs, so that in this respect 
 they are not burthensome to the Kamtschatdaleo. These people, in spite 
 of their extreme poverty, are an example of honesty : in this respect it 
 is altogether impossible to exceed them, and it is as rare to find a cheat 
 among the Kamtschatdales as a man of property. Travellers, on their 
 arrival in any ostrog, usually give their money, papers, and valuables, and 
 ■eren their stock of brandy, tea, sugar, tobacco, &c., into the hands of the 
 tayon, and there is no instance of any one having been robbed to the 
 smallest extent. 
 
 On the 9th of October quitted St. Peter and St. Paul, and on the 20th 
 of November, without any event of consequence, anchored at Macao, 
 where, the 3d of December, they were joined by the Neva, with a cargo 
 of furs from the coast of America. On the 9th of February they left 
 Canton ; the ships separated the 15th of April, reaching St. Helena the 
 3d of May. August 19th, 1806, anchored in safety at Cronstadt, after an 
 absence of three years and twelve days, without the loss of one man of 
 the ship's crew. 
 
 CAPTAIN FREYCINET.— 1818-1820. 
 
 The Urania was fitted out at Toulon in the early part of 1817, and 
 furnished with every article necessary for a long voyage ; she received a 
 picked crew, and her officers were distinguished by the extent of their 
 knowledge. 
 
 Contrary winds obliged them to put into Gibraltar on the 11th of Oc- 
 tober, and she did not arrive at Santa Cruz, in the Island of TenerifFe, 
 before the 22d of the same month. 
 
 On the 6th day of December Cape Frio was observed, and its geogra- 
 phical position verified. The Urania entered Rio de Janeiro the same 
 night, where she remained until the 29th of January. 
 
 The passage from Rio Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope was marked 
 by a melancholy event, which deprived M. de Freycinet of one of his 
 ablest colleagues. M. Laborde, an officer of distinguished merit, an ac- 
 curate observer, a good draughtsman, and who joined to these excellent 
 qualities a character the most sociable, died in the flower of his age. 
 
 The Urania remained in Table Bay from the 7th of March till the 5th 
 of April, and from thence she sailed to Port Louis, in the Isle of France, 
 where they arrived on the 5th of May. 
 
 Port Louis, placed nearly in the same latitude as Rio de Janeiro, and 
 at a distance of more than 100 degrees in longitude, was favourably 
 situated for observations respecting the pendulum. Those were made in 
 
M. DE PREYCINET. 415 
 
 detail, as well as experiments, the objects of which were to enlarge the 
 study of magnetism, and of meteorology. 
 
 A very considerable damage, which had torn oflF the copper-sheathing 
 of the Urania, did not allow them to put to sea until the 16th of July. 
 The corvette stopped only some days at the Isle of Bourbon to take in 
 provisions, and then directed her course toward the coast of New Hol- 
 land, the northern extremity of which was seen on the 11th of Sep- 
 tember, 1818. 
 
 The Urania coasted along at a moderate distance ; and having fallen in 
 with Endracht's Land, she followed it until she arrived at the entrance 
 of Sea-Dog's Bay, from whence, after a short stay, she sailed on the 13th 
 of September, to the anchorage before the peninsula of Peron. 
 
 An observatory was at fu'st established on shore, and then they were 
 employed in procuring, by means of distillation, water fit to be drank. 
 Two stills had been shipped at Toulon for this purpose. Numerous de- 
 fects, which it may probably be easy to remedy in other vessels, rendered 
 almost null the products of the apparatus placed on board the corvette ; 
 but that which was put up on shore gave, in sufficient abundance, water 
 pleasant to drink, and in which they could discover no noxious quality. 
 
 The Urania sailed on the 26th of September ; the intention of M. de 
 Freycinet being to sail for Timor, in order to ascertain some points respect- 
 mg its geographical positions, of which he had doubts. He consequently 
 sailed near the Isles of Dorre and Bernier, which he coasted along at a 
 good distance to the eastward, and in shallow water ; when, the corvette 
 having struck on a sand-bank, he was obliged to abandon the labour 
 begun, and to bear off from the shore. 
 
 This event had no disagreeable consequence ; the time passed at the 
 anchorage on the bank was employed in exploring its figure and sounding ; 
 and M. de Freycinet gave it the name of the Bank of Urania. 
 
 The corvette proceeded on her course, and cast anchor in the Bay of 
 Coupang, in the Island of Timor, after having coasted on the west side 
 of the Isles of Limas and Retti, which belong to that archipelago. 
 
 The inhabitants of Coupang were then only busied in preparations for 
 the war which the Dutch government was going to make on the Rajah, 
 Louis d'Amanoebang. 
 
 This circumstance rendered it difficult to purchase the provisions neces- 
 sary to victual the corvette ; but it did not hmder the scientific operations, 
 which were carried on with the greatest zeal, in spite of the excessive 
 height of the temperature : at the observatory it stood, at times, at 133 
 degrees of Fahrenheit, while in the shade it was from 106 to 111. 
 
 The Urania sailed from Coupang on the 23d of October, 1818, very 
 badly provisioned, and with several men attacked with dysentery. Calms 
 and contrary currents detained them a long time between Timor and 
 Ombay. This was taken advantage of to visit the village of Bitoca : it 
 is situated on the south coast of the latter of these islands ; has been, 
 till now, little frequented by Europeans, and it is peopled by a warlike 
 and ferocious race, some of whom are anthropophagites. 
 
 Meanwhile, the number of dysenteric patients increased on board the 
 corvette, and all the skill of M. Quoy, the surgeon, was not sufficient to 
 overcome the influence of a devouring climate. The harbour of Coupang 
 had furnished them with but few refreshments ; it became therefore neces- 
 sary to take a new station at Timor, and accordingly the Urania anchored 
 at Diely, the chief place among the Portuguese establishments on the 
 north coast of that island. 
 
416 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 A most obliging reception was given to the expedition by Don Josa 
 Pinto Alcoforado d'Azevedo e Souza ; and the corvette was abundantly 
 provisioned, through his care, with everything that she wanted. 
 
 Their stay here was only for five days, after which the Urania bent her 
 course still along the coast of Timor, in order to get through the straits 
 to the eastward of Vitters, by the channel that separates that isle from 
 those of Kiffer and Roma. 
 
 On the 29th of November they were in sight of Ceram and Amboyna, 
 and stretching into the strait between the latter island and Bournu, they 
 bent their course toward the Isle of Gasse, which they doubled to the 
 eastward at a small distance, during a violent storm. A great number 
 of isles were observed, among which the most remarkable are those of 
 Damoter, Gilolo, and Gu6be. 
 
 In this passage the Urania fell in with several armed canoes belonging 
 to the Kimalaha of Gu6b6. This prince came on board, and passed an 
 entire day with them, during which his fine flotilla towed astern of the 
 corvette. It was to the Isle Gu6be that M. de Pavre was sent formerly 
 by M. de Coetiva, to take drawings of the nutmeg trees, which have since 
 multiplied so much in the Indian and American colonies. The Gu6beans 
 recollected that circumstance very well, of which they were themselves 
 the first to speak ; and M. de Freycinet attributes to their former relations 
 with the French the very particular amity which they testified toward him. 
 
 The Urania, continuing her track, passed, on the 12th of December, 
 the strait which separates the Isle of Mondox from Gueb6, and stretched 
 to the eastward ; she ran some risk in the strait formed by the Isles of 
 Rouib and of Balabalak, and by the Wyag Islands, where, during a calm, 
 violent currents set upon shallows : but she was fortunately able to keep 
 her anchorage, and to wait for such winds as permitted her to keep her 
 way until she had got clear of that perilous situation. 
 
 She cast anchor, on the 16th of December, at the Isle of Rawak, after 
 having at a short distance coasted along the northern side of Waigion, 
 
 An observatory was established on shore, and its position, in latitude 
 only H minutes south, was the most favourable for experiments with the 
 pendulum which they could get under the equator. The period of this 
 stay was employed in researches respecting geography and natural history. 
 
 Two or three days before they sailed, they heard on a sudden the 
 martial music of tom-toms, kettle-drums, &c. Some moments after there 
 appeared, at the large point of the island, the fleet of the Kimalaha of 
 Gueb6, who, faithful to his promise, had come to pay the visit he had 
 before announced. This little squadron presented a spectacle at once 
 imposing and whimsical. The Guebean prince was accompanied by his 
 brothers and sons, to the number of eight ; all, like himself, of good mien, 
 and remarkable for their intelligence. They remained on board until the 
 moment of the corvette's departure ; they gave, as presents to M. de 
 Freyoinet, various curiosities of their country, and among others, hats 
 made of straw interwoven with talc, worked with admirable art. 
 
 Having sailed from Rawak on the 5th of January, 1819, the Urania 
 stretched toward the Ayon Isles, which they saw on the 6th and 8th of 
 the same month. 
 
 The dysentery continued still to torment the crew ; it was long before 
 It was joined to fevers, one of the first victims of which was M. Labiche, 
 the second lieutenant, an officer of great merit and of the most amiable 
 disposition. This was the second loss of the kind during the voyage, and 
 It was keenly felt. 
 
M. DE FREYCINET. 417 
 
 After having visited several of the Caroline Isles, which are not pointed 
 out on the maps, and having received throughout the most friendly recep- 
 tion from the islanders, M. de Freycinet arrived, on the 17th of May, in 
 sight of the Isle of Guam, and cast anchor on the night of the same day 
 in the roadstead of Humata. This delay, and that which the corvette 
 made at Port San Louis, in the same island, restored health to the crew ; 
 thanks to the generous eagerness with which the governor, Don Jose de 
 Medinillo y Pineda, anticipated all the wants of the expedition, by pro- 
 curing them refreshments and comforts of all kinds. 
 
 M. de Freycinet appears to have collected, respecting the people of the 
 Marianne Islands, information more. extensive than that with which pre- 
 ceding voyagers have enriched their accounts. He gives various details 
 respecting their manners, language, and laws, as well as that singular 
 government of which much has been said, and in which the women act 
 an important part. 
 
 Two months were employed in making these researches ; and at the 
 same time they were occupied with those observations and experiments 
 which formed the principal object of the expedition. M. de Medinillo 
 had, during all this time, the kindness to provide the corvette abundantly 
 with fresh provisions, to which he added provisions for the voyage, and 
 for which he afterward refused to accept any reimbursement. 
 
 The course of the Urania, from Guam to the Sandwich Islands, presents 
 nothing remarkable. On the 5th of August, 1819, she made the Island 
 of Owyhee, and anchored in the Bay of Harahona in three days after. 
 
 Tamahama, king of the Sandwich Isles, was dead ; his palace had been 
 reduced to ashes, and almost all the hogs on the island had been slaugh- 
 tered on account of his obsequies, according to the custom of the country, 
 which was a real disappointment in the revictualling the corvette. 
 
 Uno Rio, the eldest son and successor of Tamahama, enjoyed at that 
 time but a badly-established authortv. The chiefs, compelled to submit 
 to the arms of his father, raising extraordinary pretensions, caused him 
 to dread an approachmg war. He came with his wives and a numerous 
 suite on board the Urania, on the occasion of the baptism of one of th» 
 principal chiefs of the island. That ceremony was performed with much 
 pomp by the Abb6 Quelen, chaplain of the vessel. 
 
 The Sandwich Islands were, like the Marianne, the object of t>h0 
 assiduous researches of M. de Freycinet and of the officers under his 
 command. Numerous observations were made in search of the magnetic 
 equator and its inflexions, in the Great Ocean. 
 
 On the 30th of August the Urania sailed from Port Jackson, passing 
 through the islands of the Austral Polynesia. By taking this track, the 
 position of the dangerous Isle of Byron was rectified, as well as that of 
 the Island of Pyletant, the most southerly of the Friendly Islands, and 
 also that of Howe Island. A new island, surrounded by dangerous reefs, 
 was discovered to the east of Tonga, which M. de Freycinet named 
 Rose Island. 
 
 The Urania anchored in Port Jackson on the 18th of November, 1819 ; 
 she remained there till the 25th of December, and this interval was em- 
 ployed, as at all the preceding stoppages, in scientific inquiries. M. de 
 Freycinet speaks in this respect with gratitude for the assistance afforded 
 to him by General Macquarie, the goTernor of the colony. 
 
 On quitting Port Jackson, the course of the corvette was shaped to 
 pass between Van Dieman's Land and New Zealand. On the 7th of 
 January, 18a0, the southern extremity of the latter islands was doubled 
 
418 VOYAGES ROUND THE WORLD. 
 
 in sight of Campbell's Island. From that moment until nearing the 
 coast of Terra del Fuego the winds were constantly favourable. The 
 Urania reached 59 degrees of south latitude, and she found floating ice 
 in the 54th degree. 
 
 On the 5th of February the coast of Terra del Fuego was seen in the 
 neighbourhood of Cape Desolation ; the season was as frightful as the 
 adjoining shores. In the impossibihty of reaching Christmas Harbour, 
 it became necessary to make for the Bay of Good Success, in the Straits 
 of Le Maire ; but scarcely had the anchor dropped, when a furious storm 
 caused the ship to drive. There was not a moment to be lost in cutting 
 the cable and setting sail with all speed, to get out of the bay, and she 
 skirted at a very short distance the rocks and breakers which lie upon its 
 north point. 
 
 This tempest lasted two days, and drove the vessel considerably to the 
 northward, which determined M. de Freycinet to bear up for the Falkland 
 Islands, in sight of which they arrived on the 14th of February, accord- 
 ing to their reckoning, but the 13th according to European time, they 
 having gained a day in circumnavigating the globe. 
 
 The Urania was lost in consequence of striking on a sunken rock at 
 the entrance of French Bay, in the Falkland Islands, when they were 
 taken off by an American whaler, and taken first to Rio Janeiro and after- 
 ward to Havre de Grace, where they arrived with most of the collections 
 made during the voyage, on the 13th of November, 1820. 
 
 THE END. 
 
14 DAY USE 
 
 RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED 
 
 LOAN DEPT. 
 
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