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CERTIFICATE GRANTED BY QUEEN ALEXANDRA
Her gracious Majesty Queen Alexandra's appointment was bestowed upon the
author in appreciation of the author's great endeavor to please the beautiful
Queen and meet her exquisite taste in gowning exclusively.
INTRODUCTION
women. She was the guiding star in the brilliant
career which King Edward VII pursued among the
beauties of his period. As the years fastened upon
them both, she still remained a favourite advisor
in his international diplomacy, and after his mar-
riage she became the confidential friend of Queen
Alexandra, from the time she entered London as
a bride.
Queen Alexandra was the most beautiful per-
sonification of everything that is perfect in woman,
and I say this with a personal knowledge of this
wonderful woman and exquisite Queen. She was
one of the beautiful daughters of the King of Den-
mark. She was modestly brought up, quietly edu-
cated. When the Prince of Wales first met her at
the Court of Hessen in Darmstadt, he was over-
powered by her modesty, her simplicity, and her
beauty. From the time she entered London and
received that marvellous ovation, until to-day, she
has retained the love of the English people and
their admiration. The grace of her demeanour, her
glorious figure, her gracious manners, her unfail-
ing courtesy, and her wonderful taste in clothes,
through which she became the best dressed woman
in Europe, had made her the favourite Queen of
all Europe.
— xxvii —
INTRODUCTION
No breath of scandal has ever reached the world
about her, but there lurks in the heart of Alexan-
dra a secret romance. One glorious thought dwells
in her mind of a man who suddenly became one of
the accomplished officers in the Egyptian war. He
was a great friend of her favourite son, the late
Duke of Clarence. He worshipped on her shrine
till he died, and when he was called away in com-
parative youth, Her Majesty Alexandra never
quite got over the shock. It was after his death that
she always bore that little atmosphere of deep sor-
row in her eyes, of deep grief in her heart. There
is an altar in her heart where she worships that
adoration of her youth in secret. She recalls those
happy times when in a little canoe they glided up
and down the beautiful river canopied by the weep-
ing willows, in the shadow of those sublime old oaks
in Windsor Forest, bathed in the moonlight of those
evenings of supreme happiness. It was an idyl, and
I believe that Her Majesty always dwelt upon this
beautiful romance with a sad but glorious satisfac-
tion that to the pure all is pure. Her life has been
one of continuous charity for others. She has a
wonderful propensity for gowning herself; she is
imbibed with that wonderful sense of rhythm and
symphony in colour. Her harmonious combination
— xxviii —
INTRODUCTION
of the ultra smart and yet distinguished toilettes
was always a creation of her own, given to her dress-
maker. Every woman at the Court of St. James
was ambitious to imitate her effect in gowns. I
believe that in her saddest moment she never for-
got outward appearances, which is a graceful virtue
all women will do well to cultivate.
The relationship of royalty between Germany
and England extended in so many directions over
Europe, and by such diplomatic matrimonial direc-
tions as Queen Victoria herself planned, that it
would seem as though a deliberate purpose to es-
tablish universal peace in Europe was actually the
hope of the wise Queen of England. By her tact
and guidance these relationships in the royalty of
Europe were extended. They included the won-
derful relationship of the House of Coburg-Gotha,
of the Wittellsbach, of the Hessians. In fact, it
extended to Roumania, Bulgaria, Greece, Denmark
and Russia. Who would have believed that the
twentieth century would become an abyss where all
sentiment has been unavoidably drowned, swal-
lowed up in the horror of war?
The Princess Royal, the eldest daughter of Queen
Victoria, who married German royalty, inherited
the tendency of her mother for jealousy. There
— xxix —
INTRODUCTION
are many stories told confirming this fact. It is
said that when she lived at the palace in Berlin
during the first year of her marriage, she ran out
of the palace one night, hatless, a short distance
across the palace grounds, to complain to her
mother-in-law, the Kaiserin Augusta, that she had
just seen a wonderful parure of jewels which was
being sent to the greatest prima donna of her time
by her royal and beloved husband. It is said that
the Kaiserin Augusta told her that such little things
occurred so often in the sphere of royalty, she must
become accustomed to them. The English princess
went back to her palace home, still crying, but more
reconciled to the fact that all men are untrust-
worthy. This may have been a crisis in her per-
ception of royal privileges, for her after life was a
most happy one.
I remember vividly the day when the present
Kaiser was born. I was only a little girl and be-
longed to one of the church choirs which Her Royal
Highness patronised. I can see her now with the
Kaiser entering the salon where we children stood
waiting for them. I can see her showing us the
war lord looking like a baby cherub in her arms.
The royal parents were just as proud as any other
ordinary parents, and especially one felt how won-
— xxx —
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(' Venus rising from her bath in draperies
of trailing loam. Her bath itself was a revela-
tion, [nstead of the usual pool, there was a font
or huge vase of clearest crystal hound with copper,
studded wiih turquoise. The water which poured
from this font was perfumed, and in this huge vase
Of perfumed Water the Princess would sit Cor hours,
while in three corners around her weir j^'old chal-
ices also sel. with turquoise in which burned in-
censes of India. 'There were a succession of baths,
Turkish, Russian and others, or course, I was
overcome with the magnificence of her surround-
ings. Although it was real, I had to pinch myself
to be Convinced thai the Princess, when she ad-
dressed me in Polish, was really 8 modern human
beiiiLT. Her manner was very autocratic.
"(), (bar," she said, "please call my valet and my
maid."
1 was told it was her custom to receive the mem-
bers o\' the diplomatic Corps in Paris, the celebrated
—58—
COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE
Bohemians, the artists of France, in a similar
diaphanous gown. My conversation with her was
confined, however, to the burning question of the
day,— -the Princess' new gowns. It is interesting
to recall what we decided upon. One dress was of
scarlet Lyons velvet, trimmed with chinchilla, and
a cloak to match. This was an afternoon dress.
Another was an evening gown of Duchess satin,
embroidered with jet and gold intermingled with
pearls, and trimmed with marten fur tails. Her
mantle was of Peruvian chinchilla trimmed with
Russian ermine.
She sleeps,- forgiven let us hope, — this modern
Aspasia and Magdalen. I [er house is now a dress-
maker's establishment, being transferred from a
temple of love to a temple of fashion.
Kmil Zola's novel of 'Nana" may be almost for-
gotten to-day, but in its lime it was a very faithful
picture of one of the beauties of the Second Em-
pire. I knew this beautiful woman who was the
original inspiration of the great French author for
this character. She was very graceful, tall,
blonde, by name Blanche I'Oeil Crcvce. She was
tremendously admired, so much so that she had
very little time for her art, because she was such a
vogue. She understood the joy of living as Pari-
—59—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
sians understood it then. The dinner parties she
gave at the Cafe Anglais, surrounded by men who
laid their fortunes, but not their names, at her feet,
were celebrated. She did not seem to care much
for their names, or for themselves for that
matter, as long as she could sup, and dine,
and dress. She was a goddess of pleasure, and her
life was one perpetual round of emotion. She
flashed upon the life of Paris like a comet, and like
a comet she went. Zola alone immortalised her
idealism.
It was at this period that Teresa, the woman with
the man's voice, the most famous contralto of her
time, puzzled me very much as a dressmaker. Her
favourite colours were pale blue and green, and she
always wanted the richest satins if possible. Her
decolletage was outrageous, but she was a great
Alcazar favourite in Paris. I think she still lives
the simple life, on a chicken farm. From the sub-
lime to the ridiculous is only a step. Teresa was,
as one great artist described her to me, the most
fascinating, but the most intensely vulgar person-
ality, of the French stage. She was as celebrated
and popular in Paris as Nellie Farren was in Lon-
don.
She was of a type of stage beauty who led the
—60—
COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE
young, unsophisticated aristocracy to worship at
her shrine, without fear, but with many reproaches.
The Due D'Aumale was an enormous admirer of
hers, and the little cafe near St. Cloud was an ador-
able retreat.
Who will forget that delightful mimic, Judic,
who startled Paris in her famous bathing costume,
escorted by the jovial Baron, as her bathing -mas-
ter. She was unique in her toilettes, which were
indeed very daring, and yet never crude or vulgar.
Judic began as a variety singer at the Eldorado;
suddenly she blossomed forth one day as a prima
donna in opera at the Theatre Varietee on the
Boulevard de Montmartre. She sang very well,
but her vivacity, and her more than decollete songs,
created an immense furore. Judic was dark, of
the Oriental type, inclined to be stout. She wore
skirts as short as possible, inviting the crowd to
"come and see more of me."
Most of the French actresses aped the style and
manners of the grandes dames. This was cleverly
satirised in one of Offenbach's opera bouffes called
"La Vie Parisienne."
But, Paris in 1867 outrivalled every other city in
the world, in pleasure, in wit, in toilettes.
A bal masque given at the Grand Opera House
—61—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
in Paris just before the war of 1870, was the final
whirl of this maddening Paris before the shadows
settled over her. I remember a famous Russian
Grand Duchess who appeared in the costume of
"Sappho." When it came time for her to leave
her box, which had been continually surrounded by
a curious crowd, it was necessary to call the police
to make room for her to pass out, — to allow Venus
to go home.
These recollections of Paris at this time are
so full of interesting people and events, that we
were obliged to run away from it to recuperate.
So, the winter of 1868 found myself and my hus-
band installed in a villa at Monte Carlo, the para-
dise or inferno of Europe, whichever you care to
make it.
It was at Monte Carlo I met the beautiful
American girl, Fanny Lear. Her affair with an
Imperial Grand Duke was an international scan-
dal. The superb pearls, rubies and sapphires
which were showered upon her by the Grand Duke,
were discovered afterwards to be the personal jew-
els of his royal mother, for which little lapse of eti-
quette he was exiled from the Czar's domain for a
long time. The Grand Duke's influence evidently
left its impression upon Fanny Lear after their
—62—
BARONESS DE RAMELM AND HER DAUGHTERS AT THE SWEDISH EMBASSY
The Swedish ladies of the Court, Countess Lewenhaupt and the Baroness
de Ramelm, charming, modest ladies, gowned in perfect taste, who accom-
plished a renovation in social matters in England.
COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE
separation, for her gowns were always purely Rus-
sian in style, heavily trimmed with jewels and em-
broidery, which greatly enriched her peculiar Ori-
ental beauty. I am not sure whether originally
she came from Philadelphia or from one of those
charming cities in the Southern states. She had
beautiful eyes, glorious hair of a nut-brown shade,
and teeth like pearls, but when showing them in a
ravishing smile, one saw a rather cruel and cynical
mouth. She was intelligent far above the average.
Our conversation, which usually began on the ab-
sorbing topic of woman's gowns, drifted along to
beauty, poetry, wit, till it was time to say "good
night." I remember meeting her at a grand recep-
tion given by one of our celebrated actresses, in a
gown that no one could ever forget. It was an
opal-coloured royal satin, profoundly trimmed with
Borano lace, a corsage covered with real opals, and
strings of black pearls, to complete this ravishing
toilette. Her cloak was a regal wrap of Russian
sable, entirely trimmed with rose miroire velvet.
Sumptuous in every way were these women of the
last century, and they did not seem to care whether
it was their own money or some one else's. It was
the age of vampires in a measure, and many of
them, alas, finished badly.
^-63—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
In Paris we met, one evening at supper, that
wonderful artiste,, Princess Marie Eristoff , Mounet
Sully and the Prince, and many other celebrities.
The Princess took a fancy to me, and made quite
a lovely crayon drawing of me. She was wonder-
fully quick, and in three hours I took this spon-
taneous memento back to my hotel. She was ex-
tremely lovely, with ashen blonde hair, and very
slender, eyes like chameleon, always changing, a
voice like a rippling fall of water, perfectly modu-
lated and a trifle sad. In after years we met by
chance through a mutual acquaintance, a Brazilian
beauty, Parola de Paranguay, and so renewed an
old friendship. Princess Marie Eristoff came to
London and painted my portrait life size. Every
one who saw it pronounced it a perfect likeness al-
though perhaps it is a little idealistic and futuris-
tique in influence. She exhibited it at the Waldorf
with some others of her works, portraits of Prince
George of Servia, Sacha Votischenkow, the great
Russian Tymphan artist, a Russian dancer, and
others. I hear she is now in great demand, and is
painting the portraits of many of the brothers, sons
and sweethearts, in khaki, for those loved ones left
behind, and that most of her fees are turned over at
once to charity, which is like her generous heart.
—64—
COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE
Her atelier in Paris was often filled with Russian
grand dukes and duchesses from the embassy, who
like the flavour of Bohemia. And we used to drink
coffee from an earthen Roman pitcher, and eat
black bread with butter from a broken earthenware
saucer. Spellbound we would listen to the weird
music of the Tymphan, and one of her favourites,
that Sacha was often called upon to play, was an
imaginary storm on the Volga. Sacha, too, is now
in this country, and only before his departure from
England he had the honour of playing before Queen
Alexandra, Grand Duchess Marie and the Prin-
cess Victoria. When I recall the days of these fa-
mous men and women, notorious perhaps too often,
one wonders that the twentieth century is so void of
all these perpetual, piquant incidents. We have
progressed indeed, but have we perhaps not dete-
riorated, too, in some things.
The enchantress of the Second Empire was, in a
primitive sense, less regardless than the modern
"flapper," who so mysteriously defies us. The
Court romances of the Second Empire were dis-
tinctly more humane and graceful than those of a
later Court, across the sea from France.
Napoleon III had a streak of vulgarity, a taint
of the cad in him. It often happens that men who
—65—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
are able in warfare and diplomacy, in their dealings
with women are unpardonable. He lacked the
gift of reticence towards his affairs with women.
Nothing could have been more disreputable than
the sordid and cruel delight in the tone with which
he discusses his opportunities of escape from serious
responsibilities with Madame R , a lady of his
Court. She had been persona grata with the Im-
perial family, the confidante of the Empress, and
the victim of all the grievances that Her Imperial
Majesty could imagine. Sometimes the ladies of
the Court of the Second Empire pursued a thought
of unavoidable feeling of justice towards the beau-
tiful Empress Eugenie. That is to say, they ac-
cepted the presents of the Emperor Napoleon, and
kept faith in vital things with the Empress.
The story is told of the famous Madame de
P , who was greatly admired by the Emperor,
that she was invited by him to the Tuileries Palace
to inspect the royal apartment. When the Em-
peror led her to the bedroom of the Empress, she
turned to His Imperial Majesty and gracefully
disarmed him.
"I cannot admire fully," she said, "the exquisite
conveniences of this room in the absence of Her
Majesty, the chief ornament."
—66—
COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE
Napoleon had no adequate reply to such adroit-
ness, and so he sent a gentleman to the Empress,
requesting her to come at once and acknowledge
her indebtedness to Madame de P .
That was Napoleon III in his best romantic
mood. It was not always the attitude of Madame
de P., however. She managed to amass many val-
uable jewels, and to hide them from her husband.
Napoleon's attraction towards her was not irresisti-
ble, because he had little personal charm, but Ma-
dame de P. could not be entirely blind to the mate-
rial advantages gained by an affair with the Em-
peror. It is recorded that she gave her affection
and fidelity to her Imperial mistress, the Empress.
As a woman, inevitably subject to flattery, Ma-
dame de P. was no doubt pleased by the romantic
homage of Napoleon. The heart of the Empress
Eugenie was no doubt disturbed with bitterness
that comes to the woman who is childless, her ambi-
tion also may have inspired her with a desire for an
heir apparent. These are merely observations of
analysis, without actual fact in history. Commen-
tators of her time accused her of being lethargic,
others believed that she was unwilling. No one
has solved the mystery of how she spent her quiet
moments.
—67—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Strive as we will, to study the inner character of
the Empress Eugenie from the many portraits, we
cannot decide whether she was happy or unhappy.
Those portraits of her, made in the earlier years
of her reign, give a very benign expression. There
is a great change in those portraits taken of her dur-
ing the years when she was in her zenith, when the
obsessions of power had brought a slight cynical
weariness, to mark her features. Were the eyes of
the Empress cynical ? In these portraits of her fa-
mous years, they are full and open, looking with an
air of tolerable candour on the world, yet with an
expression in her elevated eyebrows, of question.
In the later portraits, owing perhaps to the fashion
of the sidelong, averted gaze and exaggerated roug-
ing, to the portrait painter's custom of giving beau-
tiful women the delicate, tapering hands, we must
perhaps allow for the artistic convention of the pe-
riod, yet, these portraits speak clearly for the nerv-
ous refinement of this wonderful woman.
She moved amidst the dramatis personce in-
scrutably. She was especially inscrutable to the
unscrupulous politician, that genius, that pictur-
esque personality, streaked with facts which one
encounters in human nature as one does in geologi-
cal formations. Those who feared her hated her,
—68—
COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE
and their hatred, bred of common minds, was a
greater homage to her than their love. She was
always hopeful of any episode which might provide
a clue to some new intrigue of the court. She was
complex, ardent, facing the future with some defi-
nite plan that she did not declare.
The satirical wits of the Court, unable to pene-
trate her motive, described her as an emotional lob-
ster salad. There were many in the Court of the
Second Empire, however, with fine personalities,
who, like Her Imperial Majesty, moved untouched
amid the evil of that Empire. Napoleon's amours
were treated with mild, yet jealous intolerance by
his consort. Mild, chiefly because, though these epi-
sodes were picturesquely brilliant, they were hol-
low.
The Princess Pauline Metternich retained her
beauty and her wit after sixty years of coquetry
and social reign. She was not so beautiful but she
was sprightly, gay, full of character and electric
charm.
The Princess de S. was really beautiful, with her
fair hair and complexion, and rounded figure. The
beauty of her face was almost angelic, she had
pearl-white skin, blue eyes, and her hah' looked like
gold, cooled in moonlight. Such was the princess
—69—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
in her early youth. Her intellectual brilliancy in-
volved her in politics, for it was at her house that
those famous parties were held which were regarded
with so much disfavour by the legitimist faction. It
is stated that she secretly married a brilliant roue,
to legitimize her amatory discrepancies. It was
noticeable that the Emperor treated her with far
more reserve and respect than he generally ac-
corded to the ladies whose society he frequented.
She frequently drove out in public with the Imperial
couple, and when she left France for Spain they
accompanied her. When she died, it caused great
distress to every one, and especially to myself, due
to the honour which she had extended to me on my
arrival at Court. Besides her many other perfec-
tions which made her admirable, she possessed that
one of being a loyal friend.
"I shall revere her memory and mourn her all
my days," were the words of the Empress Eugenie
when the Princess de S. died.
As the old harem days of Napoleon's reign pass
from our vision, there is a unique fact in the knowl-
edge that some of the men who surrounded him had
such a horror of impropriety that it is surprising
they should have been there at all. However,
Napoleon III was always scrupulously correct in
—70—
COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE
good manners. Still, the liberty and licence of the
Court invite the curious question as to which of
these men who were so insistent for the proprieties,
was the greatest fraud.
There is a piquant story told of a certain Court
lady, a Spanish beauty, who in every detail of fem-
inine perfection seriously rivalled the Empress
Eugenie. Many at Court hated her, for she inter-
fered quite seriously with their own affairs with
the Emperor. It was generally admitted that his
sentiments towards this lady were very sincere, so
much so, that he carried her letters constantly with
him.
By a conspiracy of the Empress and her Court
ladies, she was finally entirely frightened away
from the Court balls. It was a very simple plan.
Whenever she arrived, looking radiantly beautiful,
the Court ladies would get around her and tell her
how ill she was looking, until being convinced that
she was not looking her best, she would run out of
the salon before the Emperor could see her, entirely
duped by the mischief of these Court ladies.
One of the really daring beauties of the Court of
the Second Empire was Madame d'Elboeuf. She
was not very tall, but striking, and she exacted ad-
miration, awaited love at every turn. Her fore-
—71—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
head needed no device of curls, her lips were rather
too thin, but her teeth were beautiful, and she was
regarded by able sculptors as a figure worthy of
classical beauty to rank with the creations of the
sculptors of Rome and Greece. She was brazenly
intolerant of virtue in other women, which she re-
garded as improbable and perhaps impossible.
I must give a passing word to two women, who,
though not in the Court circles, were so famous for
their beauty, their mental vivacity and promiscu-
ous adventures, as to be typical of the women of
the Second Empire. They were both respectably
born. Blanche d'l , one of these women, was
the daughter of a man of the world and a distinctly
pious mother. Brown-eyed, laughter loving, yet
not suggestive of mere bubbling mirth, she always
had a rather severe, haughty expression. She had
many adorers, shared many intrigues. Her con-
temporary, Anne Delyon, was a being of inferior
calibre. She was much admired by the Duke de
Morny. She would accept gifts of any sort,
clothes, bric-a-brac, anything that had value, and
she talked with pride of the important men who
had supplied them. She frequently visited a cer-
tain Grand Duke, dressed as a page, and displayed
his costly gifts with much self-congratulation. The
—72—
COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE
partner of her earlier aberrations was a decadent
poet of the Second Empire, whom she really loved.
But then, she really loved only seven men after all,
so she averred in the recital of her book, "Libre
Amoris."
The names of these two women were chronicled
among the Court babblers of the Imperial era.
On every page of record in gallantry, in intrigue
or diplomatic episodes of this period, one will find
some allusion to the brilliant Princess R., with a
man's intellect diverted by a woman's caprice. She
was ever beguiling, even in her most indifferent
moments. Her husband, the prince, though stern
in appearance, looked on at her affairs with the
admiration one may feel for the gambols of a lovely
kitten, but who became adamant when he found
that she was interfering with the serious affairs of
state. Her sprightly activities made the dull at-
mosphere of other neglected Court ladies brighter.
Her attachment to her various beaux outlived
many vicissitudes, and the princess, in a way that
was careless and self-seeking, did her best. Per-
haps, after all, she only used her powers to form a
cover for her own romances. Her affair with the
English Duke of H. was only a blind, for the
princess favoured her English lover, so they say, and
—73—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
dared almost everything. When visiting a certain
country house, the prince wished her to leave with
him but she refused. She was not herself quite
sure of her hospitality, but she did not wish to give
the world the impression that her only home was
her husband's.
She was often on the brink of disgrace but al-
ways escaped. In her resplendent womanhood she
captivated every one. After the fall of the Empire
she was implicated in some clandestine correspon-
dence with the Empress. In these letters she in-
formed Her Imperial Majesty that a certain Arch-
bishop would do anything for her, if she favoured
him. It was not discovered that the prelate was
really deeply in the toils of the enchantress, but he
did provide her means to get out of France.
Dressed as a man, she set off with a couple of
horsemen as her sole escorts, but in her usual casual
fashion left the evidence of her guilt behind. She
was provided with ample means by an acquaintance
whom she did not betray, for it might have been
fatal to her incognito until she reached the frontier.
She sent her lover a colossal sum, and promised him
that when she died he should have her jewels. She
had many adventures in Holland and Germany.
It is said that on one of these expeditions, she
—74—
COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE
stopped at an inn in her man's disguise and slept
on the floor with other men, undisturbed. The
next morning she left a note for the stupefied land-
lord, which informed him that a princess had slept
in his house.
I cannot leave this fascinating element of coque-
try of the Second Empire without again referring
to that delicate beauty, Madame de Gallifet. She
will go down into history as a woman who in spite
of her eagerness for life and all its enchantment,
never was known to say an evil thing of any one.
She is one of the rare figures in the picturesque tap-
estry of time. When she was a girl it was said
that she knelt at the altar, praying that she might
some night go to Court. She obtained her wish,
she was enrolled as Maid of Honour, and it was on
this occasion that her future husband saw her. He
was a stiff and formal lover. For a long while he
went no further than to express himself in flowery
speech, and the dear girl began to feel that she
had nothing to fear from him beyond the possi-
bility of being bored. I have good cause to be-
lieve that she found great happiness in her married
life.
That famous picture by Winterhalter, of the
Empress Eugenie, surrounded by her group of fair
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
women, is typical of the Second Empire. It was
so famous, that in after years proofs of it were sold
for over a hundred thousand francs. I believe the
original is in the Louvre.
Shortly after the war trumpet had sounded the
call of duty, and the fall of the Second Empire had
occurred, I was crossing on a channel steamer from
Folkestone to Boulogne. The boat was extremely
crowded and I had to stand up. A lady in deep
mourning passed me. There was another lady
with her, who, I later found out, was Madame de
Faucourt. Both ladies, like myself, were wedged
in so tightly, that they could not move. A sailor
boy brought me a wooden stool, and the lady in
deep mourning looked so longingly at it, that I
quite unconsciously asked her to divide the seat
with me. So for a little while we sat back to back.
Presently she said to me in French:
"Madame, do you know a dance called the quad-
rille?"
"Yes," I said, and she half jestingly added that
we were executing a figure of the quadrille.
Of course, later I learned it was the Empress,
and I recalled to her the name of my aunt, whom
she had known so well in her glorious days, and we
chatted. When we arrived at Boulogne, the Em-
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COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE
press got up, and as we bowed to each other she
lifted her veil, then I bowed again and courtesied,
and thanked her for the pleasant crossing, and she
graciously extended me her hand, which I kissed.
We went different ways, for I was going to Monte
Carlo to meet my late husband, and she was going
to Cap Martin, where she had a lovely villa.
I also met her later in those sublime shady walks
on the Mediterranean. Between those olive and
almond trees she would come slowly along, leaning
rather heavily upon her stick, accompanied by her
friend, the Duke de Bassano.
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CHAPTER II
RECOLLECTIONS OF QUEEN VICTORIA
I shall never forget the dignity of Queen Vic-
toria. It was most remarkable, because in stature
and figure Her Majesty was by no means regal.
There was an invulnerable air about her, a supreme
consciousness of her royal person, that every one
felt in her presence. I had the honour of meeting
her many times, and I always marvelled at the mys-
terious atmosphere of royal identity which seemed
to enfold the rather short, stout, plain little lady,
who was England's wisest and most gracious
Queen. She had the most perfect arms and hands
of any woman I ever saw. Perhaps knowing this,
she always wore beautiful gold bracelets, one of
them bearing her late husband's miniature. On
the other was an enormous cameo. Queen Vic-
toria never adopted the style of her period of wear-
ing bones in her bodice. In later years she used to
wear one-piece gowns made by the silk mercers, al-
ways especially woven for her at Spittlefields. She
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QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS
was perhaps the one Queen in Europe who never
bought, or had made for her in the way of dress
anything that was not English and ultra-conserva-
tive. All her gowns had long trains, and since the
demise of the Prince Consort, her husband, she al-
ways wore black. I can only remember that on
one or two occasions she relieved this sombre attire
with a white plume, or a bunch of lilacs in her bon-
net. Yet, she was every inch a Queen.
They did not study the form divine in 1830.
Perhaps they didn't care to accentuate the curves
and lines of the women of that period. At any rate,
they dressed themselves like nice sofa cushions, hid
their beauty of face in coal scuttle bonnets and huge
shovel hats. The early Victorian toilettes in respect
of decolletage, were perhaps not over-modest, still
there were occasional restraints.
There was a strenuous effort in the Victorian
Era, to establish the idea that there were none but
honest women in England at that time. This im-
pulse was inspired entirely by Queen Victoria her-
self, whose delicate, fastidious taste looked with
horror upon any compromising act, not because of
its indiscretion, but because it indicated a common
mind. This may have been a chill of temperament
which Her Majesty inherited. I am told that in
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
her youth she possessed a charm over all men who
approached her that they could not ignore. After
attracting them first by her youth and loveliness,
she held their attention and admiration by her
many remarkable qualities of conversation, of wit
and brilliancy. When, however, any man at-
tempted to cross the slender barrier which separates
the courtier from the outspoken admirer, they
found her surrounded by a wall of ice, impalpable,
but impassible. The court ladies of Queen Vic-
toria's early years were often filled with jealous
envy towards the Queen. These women created
some gossip but in spite of all they said, it is an
indisputable fact that at no instant of her life was
Queen Victoria's conduct anything but a transpar-
ent record of virtue.
Once only, it is said, did a man forget the respect
due to his sovereign, and in fact to his own honour,
as to yield to the temptation of acknowledging a
devoted passion for the Queen. On this account,
for a long time, the Duke of M. was banished from
the Court. The story itself, I believe, was related
by him.
It was on the night of a state ball, just after the
Queen had been crowned, and being fatigued by the
heat and glare of the drawing-rooms. Her Majesty
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QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS
stepped out upon the terrace, illumined by the chaste
radiance of a full moon. She was accompanied by
the young Duchess of Bedford, who had been one of
her bridesmaids. The Queen, clad from head to
foot in snowy laces, with great emeralds gleaming
on her white neck and in the masses of her beau-
tiful hair, moved slowly up and down, close to the
marble balustrade of the terrace. She was talk-
ing to her companion, in that melodious, low voice,
which always had something so marvellously capti-
vating about it. Presently she reached a secluded
and shadowy corner of a long, rose-bowered walk,
when suddenly, from beneath the trees, the Duke
of M stepped out. It was evident from his
manner that he had lost all control of his feelings.
He cast himself at Her Majesty's feet and then
and there confessed his earnest devotion. In the
torrent of his eloquence, his unconsidered words
were beyond all pardon. It is said that he clung
to her skirts, his eyes sparkling like fire, his whole
frame shaken with fierce emotion.
Her Majesty shook herself free, stared at him in
amazement, then drew herself up and looked upon
him as if he were some infuriated animal she wished
to subdue. His Grace saw at once that she was im-
placably offended. It was probably the first and
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
the last time in her life that any one had ever pre-
sumed to insult her.
"How dare you!" she exclaimed, almost choking
with fury. The Duke pursued his mad declara-
tion, and of course found himself talking at last to
the empty air, for the Queen moved away rapidly
and re-entered the castle by a side door, leaving him
blinded by his own emotions. It is said that he
wandered around the gardens of Windsor Castle
most of the night.
Nothing annoyed the Queen so much in her
earlier years as to appear in public, to be stared at
by the struggling crowds who tried to get as close
to her as possible. To the common people her pe-
culiar style of beauty was not comprehensible, it
was a kind which had nothing gross or ordinary
about it. Her wonderful ivory-like complexion,
her erect, dignified bearing, were utterly for-
eign to the popular expectations in England of a
Queen, and yet, no Queen on any throne of Europe
ever deserved more credit for queenly dignity, not
only of outward form, but also of inward charac-
ter, than Queen Victoria.
Her one fault, perhaps, was a perfectly natural
jealousy of her Consort, Prince Albert. The early
years of Her Majesty's marriage were shockingly
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QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS
unhappy, and when a woman is unhappy she is
never wise. But England received the joyful tid-
ings that Queen Victoria had been blessed with a
son, Albert Edward, Prince of Wales. With the
birth of this princelet all the bells of England rang
out joyously, bonfires illuminated the landscape,
and there began for Queen Victoria a long reign
of unalloyed happiness, into which the yellow mon-
ster of jealousy never again intruded.
One could write volumes of the period during
which the wonderful children of Queen Victoria
were growing up to inherit their difficult destinies.
Queen Victoria saw many sorrows come to these
children, and sustained them with her quiet
strength. Her daughter, the Princess Royal, who
married Kaiser Friedrich, endured the same sor-
rows of widowhood as her mother, when the Em-
peror of Germany died. With all her children
happily settled she spent the few remaining years
of her widowhood in seclusion, the Kaiser and
Prince Henry being her only surviving sons.
Queen Victoria's widowhood was particularly
peaceful and remote from public appearances. She
lived an ideal life with her widowed daughter,
Princess Beatrice of Battenberg, partly in Bal-
moral, partly in the Isle of Wight. Princess Bea-
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
trice was created a governor of the Isle of Wight,
and both she and her mother were adored by the
people of this delightful place. The royal house-
hold was managed perhaps rather strictly, puri-
tanically, but this did not affect the Battenberg
children. They romped and played as other chil-
dren, and their royal grandma was very human,
very indulgent.
The question has often been asked if the Batten-
berg menage was a happy one. It is still a query.
At any rate, the Prince went away, and rumour
said, it was because the Princess Beatrice had in-
herited much of her mother's characteristic jeal-
ousy. The Prince was an extraordinarily handsome
man. Like all the Battenbergs, he had inherited
from a morganatic mother, who was a rarely beau-
tiful Jewess, much of her good looks and her intelli-
gence. All the Battenbergs married well, for they
were very popular and charming princes.
The first time I met Queen Victoria personally,
I was summoned to Windsor Castle to be con-
sulted concerning a new dress for Princess Bea-
trice. Of course, I went, and on my arrival found
that the late Duchess of Roxborough, at that time
Mistress of the Robes, had spoken of me to Prin-
cess Beatrice. Imagine my surprise when I was
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QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS
informed that I was to make a purple velvet toi-
lette for the young princess. Velvet, for one so
young! It seemed very peculiar to me; however,
I had to obey the royal command.
On my arrival at Windsor Castle, I was ushered
into the royal boudoir. I particularly remember
that, prominently displayed in the room, was a por-
trait of the late Prince Imperial, surrounded with
great bunches of violets. Perhaps if he had lived
an entente cordiale might have existed in the long
ago.
It was during this first visit to Windsor Castle
that I was initiated into the strict etiquette of the
royal household. It was of course necessary for
me, in my capacity as dressmaker, to stand side by
side with Princess Beatrice. During my entire
visit, however, Her Royal Highness never ad-
dressed me directly; she spoke to me, but in the
third person. Her personal dresser was present,
by name Morgan.
The princess would say to her dresser, for in-
stance :
"Morgan, I should like you, please, to tell Ma-
dame Frederic that I want my jacket and skirt very
ample."
My reply, of course, was made to Miss Morgan,
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
but addressed to the princess. This, I believe, is
the formal way of addressing exalted persons of
royalty, even if they speak to you directly.
The purple velvet gown was made, trimmed
with some glorious Russian sable, and successfully
worn by Her Royal Highness. Princess Beatrice
was at this time rather good looking. She was
of the buxom type of beauty, to be sure, but she had
a very charming smile, quantities of ash-blonde
hair, good teeth, and a rather distingue air. She
walked very gracefully. Her marriage to the late
Prince Battenberg was, of course, an absolute love-
match, and his early death upon foreign shores
marred her happiness. She lost one of her favourite
sons at the beginning of the war. Her daughter^
however, is the Queen of Spain, and her grand-
children are much solace to her.
At the time I visited Windsor, Princess Beatrice
had not yet married, for in her heart there was still
the image of that importunate Prince Napoleon
(Lulu) , whose untimely death in Zululand was still
fresh in the memory of all who had known him and
loved him. Princess Beatrice never entirely lost
the tender regard for this real romance of her life.
It was always violets, the emblem of the Napoleonic
family, which adorned her boudoir. And yet, the
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QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS
closest ties of Princess Beatrice were naturally
German.
Her daughter, the Queen of Spain, is German
on her father's side. Alphonso, the King of Spain,
is Austrian on his mother's side. In fact, there is
not a single royal family in Europe that has not the
blood of Germany somewhere in their veins. A
glance at this relationship is worth while.
For instance, the Czarina of Russia was a Prin-
cess of Hesse Darmstadt. The Queen of Belgium
is the daughter of a Bavarian prince. The King
of Roumania is a direct descendant of the Hohen-
zollerns. The Queen of Roumania is the grand-
daughter of the late Queen Victoria. The Queen
of Greece is the daughter of Kaiser Friedrich, an-
other granddaughter of Queen Victoria, whose
mother was the late Duchess of Connaught, daugh-
ter of the Red Prince Friedrich Carl of Prussia.
The Queen of Holland is the daughter of the
Duchess of Wied, her husband is the Grand Duke
of Mecklenburg- Schwerin.
The royal servants of Windsor Castle during the
latter part of Queen Victoria's reign were nearly
all Germans. Her personal maid, who was with her
for nearly forty years, came from a little hamlet
in the Black Forest. Of course, there were a few
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Scotch servants who surrounded Her Majesty.
The tradespeople of the neighbourhood used to de-
light to go to Windsor Castle because they were
always royally treated. Carriages were sent to
meet them at the station, and luncheon was served
to them by powdered footmen.
Eating and drinking had always been one of the
national amusements of Great Britain, and there-
fore I was not surprised to find at Windsor Cas-
tle the most valuable gold table service in the world.
It was valued at one million pounds sterling, and is
a historical and stupendous work of the goldsmith's
art. It consists of huge gold salvers, upon which
were dozens and dozens of gold platters, and in-
cludes great gold drinking cups, gold soup tureens,
gold dishes for roasts, and two enormous dishes
big enough to carry the famous English boar's
head. It was a barbaric memento of Great Brit-
ain's devotion to the feast. I shall never forget
the gorgeousness of that million pound gold service,
designed and preserved for kings only.
The whole royal household was brought up like a
large well-conducted family, and Queen Victoria,
as the integral part of a great nation's honour, was
faithful to her trust, to the traditions of her an-
cestry.
—88—
*l ^
LADY WINIFRED RENSHAW
Lady Winifred Renshaw, gifted, tall, very haughty and verj commanding,
elder daughter of the Countess of Seitrim, commissioned the author to make
her trousseau.
QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS
The latter part of Queen Victoria's reign was
spent almost entirely apart from her official obli-
gations. She was very fond of San Remo in Italy.
She loved the Mediterranean, and spent part of
every year there. She became enamoured with
Cimez. Her daily plans of life were always beau-
tifully arranged. She was evidently a woman of
deep and sweet attachment. When first married,
her love for the Prince Consort was always quite
obvious. There was a yearning for his affection,
which is a sentiment wholly outside the instinct of
passion, and I believe in after years that the mem-
ory of this tenderness often thrilled her heart anew.
Queen Victoria was a religious woman, not in the
outward noisy manner of the bigot, but sincerely
devoted to the High Church of England, and her
charity toward those who recognised the love in
their homes that she enjoyed with her husband and
her children, was proverbial. The greatest bond
between the Queen and the Prince Consort was
music. Pie was devoted to Schumann, and Queen
Victoria loved the piano. He played very well,
and it is said that by accident Her Majesty discov-
ered this, when she found him alone one day, play-
ing the "Traumerei." The discovery that he pos-
sessed this talent gave her wonderful pleasure, and
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
it was then she begged him to play Chopin to her.
Their love was really ideal. They often walked
on the narrow edge of the beach, below the rocky
cliffs near Balmoral Castle. Unseen and unat-
tended, they would re-discover maritime plants in
the shallow water. All sorts of things they col-
lected in this way, and brought them home to show
the children. It would take a much cleverer pen
than mine to do justice to this idyl, to the unselfish
devotion which Queen Victoria gave her husband
and her family. She found the greatest comfort
in her role as a ministering angel to those who suf-
fered. She would personally visit the poor, espe-
cially the old people in the cottages, and her dig-
nity and manner, her kindness at heart, and her
loftiness of purpose simply amazed her people. She
was greatly blessed for her nursery was completely
filled, and all her children, from their tenderest
babyhood, were brought up in a love for the open
air, and for the influences of nature.
The Prince of Wales was the most interesting
child, headstrong, generous, plucky, and at the
same time extraordinarily tender-hearted. His
boyish, resolute air and his charming manner made
him a universal favourite. He was very affectionate
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QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS
and sensitive, and he was well trained in bodily ex-
ercise.
Those wonderful gatherings in the sheltered gar-
dens at Windsor Castle, where Queen Victoria
would sit, surrounded in later years by her grand-
children! She was especially fond of Princess
Christian, whose husband, a Schleswig-Holstein,
lost an eye through an accidental shooting in Wind-
sor Forest. The two sons of Princess Christian
are fighting brother against brother. One fights
for Germany, and the other for England. Prin-
cess Louise, the wife of the late Duke of Argyle,
had the most beauty of any of Queen Victoria's
children.
I remember once being permitted to peep into
Her Majesty's studio, or boudoir, at Windsor Cas-
tle. It was an oval-shaped room, hung with old
Flemish lace. There was a fine collection of su-
perb old Chelsea and Dresden china. Pine logs
were smouldering lazily in an open fireplace, and
there were natural flowers everywhere. I remem-
ber distinctly a very old clock that stood solemnly
in a corner, where it had been placed since it came
from the Black Forest. On the walls were pic-
tures by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Turner, Hopner,
and the adjoining conservatory was filled with
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
camellias, gardenias, ferns, and orchids. From this
distance which separates that era of peace and
splendour in Great Britain to the present atmos-
phere charged with all the horrors that civilisation
can endure, one wonders what Queen Victoria
would say were she to return to the barbaric vision
of the world as it is to-day.
Above all things, Her Majesty Queen Victoria
loved poetry, and the satirical Heine was a great
favourite of hers. I heard through a very intimate
friend that her favourite poem was Heine's "The
Two Grenadiers." She helped the unfortunate
unconditionally, and personally consoled them just
as she did her own family. It was her custom often
to go unaccompanied, perhaps with only one ser-
vant, into the squalid cottages of Scotland. She
usually chose the sunset hour for these trips, carry-
ing flowers and fruit to those who were sick. She
always found some encouraging, cheering words of
hope and sympathy, unrestricted by any religious
exaggeration of preaching.
On one occasion the Queen came upon a rough
Scotch miner, dragging a woman by the hair, and
kicking her vigorously with his hob-nailed boots.
Unmindful of herself, she started beating the man
with her umbrella with such vigour, in the face, that
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QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS
in his amazement he stopped, and stared at Her
Majesty. The woman resented her interference,
and demanded why she did so. The Queen an-
swered by giving them a couple of sovereigns.
"Beat her, my friend, beat her all she wants, she
certainly deserves it for being so loyal to you," said
Her Majesty. j
The land which Her Majesty enjoyed above all
was the Riviera. Summer and winter the Riviera
is a world of flowers. The climate is so mild that
there are wild stalks blooming in the crevices of
those old walls. Upon all the windowsills of those
crazy little houses one sees all year round pots of
basilica, geranium and fuchsias. The fields are
abloom with almond-scented white szerazin and
crimson clover. I can almost smell the heath of
purple and brown, now. Those were the days of
chivalry, when there was a charm indescribably sin-
cere. How tasteless and tame seems this twentieth
century of ours, compared to it.
The great climax of Queen Victoria's reign was
the war in South Africa, it was her death knell.
She was very fond of going about incognito, and
on one occasion, while staying at Scarborough, a
Yorkshire seaside resort, she met some very charm-
ing people who did not know she was a Queen.
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
While standing on the beach, a sailor came up to
her and her party.
"Will you have a row, ma'am, only six pence an
hour?" he said.
"Why, of course we will," said Her Majesty,
and they all embarked in a little rowboat. Being
a Tar of the old fashioned kind, of course, he took
this opportunity to "spin a yarn," and this was it:
"Ladies, did yer notice that little old house on
the beach?" he asked, and when Her Majesty said
yes, he told the following story :
"It was to that wery house that a strange woman
went once to see the owner, who was a poor, bed-
ridden old man.
" 'Are you Tom Smith?' she asked.
" 'Yes,' he said.
" 'Then get up and try to follow me. I bring
you from the far East a box, filled with treasures,
with gold, with all the jewels that the crown ever
held, and the whole top of the box is filled with the
sovereigns of our dear, precious little Queen Vic-
toria."
He paused, so that the wonder if the story could
sink in, then he said rather roughly:
"I wish I could meet the lassie, I would ha' gi'n
her a real smack in the mouth."
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QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS
The Queen raised her hand very gently, and said
to him: "Will this hand do, for I am Queen Vic-
toria?"
She was a Queen of grace, of soulful considera-
tion and kindness. Pageantry, pomp and cere-
mony she did not like, and when she consented to
wear all the insignia of her lofty rank, her presence
was not improved by the priceless display of jewels,
for the precious stones themselves seemed to gather
their magnificence and their loveliness from being
in contact with her.
Her political ideas were extremely broad. She
used to say that every one believed a republican
form of government was the best.
I remember seeing Her Majesty at one very im-
portant Court function, when she was wearing one
of the most beautiful Court dresses I ever saw. It
was of light blue moire with an entire overdress of
spun gold tulle, held from the shoulders by clus-
ters of real roses. Her head-dress was a sort of
coronet of pink pearls, sapphires and diamonds.
She wore a fan-shaped bodice. The endless, fan-
shaped train and bodice of this period were of the
softest, shimmering tulle, embroidered with pearl-
hearted Parma violets. She wore a mantle of the
finest gauze, powdered with jet. Around her
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
shapely neck hung row after row of softly gleaming
black pearls and black diamonds interspersed with
brilliants. In her hand she carried a marabout fan,
adorned with her crown in diamonds.
On this occasion Her Majesty was in a very
amiable mood, smiling and conversing graciously
with every one. She looked so youthful that her
contemporaries could easily have been taken for
her seniors by many years. After the usual Court
presentations were over, tea was served in a large
supper room for Their Majesties and their immedi-
ate followers, while other guests took supper in ad-
joining drawing-rooms. By midnight all was over.
Her Majesty did not like late hours, that is why her
wonderful complexion never required any cos-
metics.
Cold water m her tub before retiring, a glass of
hot milk, were the preliminaries of Her Royal
sleep. She was a very early riser, and as soon as
she awoke she had a cup of tea, a few slices of but-
tered toast, and some fruit. Her life was simple,
unostentatious, beautiful.
-96—
CHAPTER III
ROYAL GAMBLERS AND THEIR AMOURS
The clatter of gold, the sparkle of jewels, and
woman, create those extraordinary places of pic-
turesque but violent elements of human nature
called gambling centres. There were two famous
ones in Europe in my youth, one was in Homburg,
conducted by the celebrated Monsieur Blanc, the
other was in Monte Carlo.
The time when Homburg was at its best was in
the autumn, but it was in the summer of 1867 that
I with all the world went to that picturesque place,
Taunus, where were united the social and scanda-
lous men and women of Europe. The gambling
salons here, which were run by M. Blanc, were
magnificently decorated. He spent a fortune cre-
ating an impression in these rooms that you had
entered a feudal castle of a former period. A won-
derful collection of famous old masters covered the
walls.
No better symbol of the ruling passion could
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
have been conceived than that complete facade of
full length mirrors which greeted you at the en-
trance to these rooms. You could see yourself
there in your full glory, and others could see you,
so that you could be bewitchingly and enthusiasti-
cally admired. And yet one could hardly get close
enough to these mirrors to have one's own reflection
complete, they were so arranged. M. Blanc, as I
remember him, was a little round-faced French-
man, with a pointed beard. He was an educated
man, a widower, whose two daughters married
brilliantly, and whose granddaughter married the
son of the King of Greece. He was rather fond
of the ladies, and frequently when he saw them
lose he would offer them his cheque, whispering to
them, "Continue, continue."
Of course, one entered these rooms with a cer-
tainty of feeling that you would leave them pos-
sessing the treasures of Golconda.
The gaming tables opened at 11 A. M., and were
always covered with gold louis. The struggle in
the crowd was to procure a seat as near as possible
to the head croupier. The gold itself was brought
up in huge bags from the vaults. These bags were
guarded by two or three employees of the bank, who
carefully watched their discharge upon the table,
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ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS
where the gold and bank notes were deposited. The
game itself was roulette. Each croupier had a small
shovel before him, with which to handle the gold
and the notes. Every two hours these men were
relieved from duty. The head croupier sat upon a
chair, considerably elevated from the rest, keeping
a sharp eye upon any errors in payment, whether
too little or too much, to the players. The lowest
sum one could risk at the roulette was five francs.
The two men who were internationally notorious
as celebrated gamblers in the sixties were Prince
Paul Demidoff and Garcia. The latter broke the
bank of Monte Carlo once, and at Homburg and
Wiesbaden twice. There was always a crowd sur-
rounding these men, a curious mob, seeking to fol-
low their luck. The conditions and surroundings
of these places were indescribably feverish and un-
reasonable. While all conditions of society could
be found at these places, there was a predominance
of those types that belonged to Babylon of old.
The entrances were thronged, and many of the
beautiful women were not irreproachable. Love
was in the air, and these radiant charmers were
royally paid by the managers of M. Blanc to at-
tract, to ensnare men to become mad, which is never
a very difficult thing to do. I recall some of these
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
women, those who represented predominant types.
There was Baruchi, whose type of beauty com-
pletely overpowered the heir to the throne of Hol-
land. He was called Prince Citron, and himself
was a famous lady-killer, a distinguished rake of his
time. He spent millions where others spent pen-
nies. His sumptuous apartments in Paris were
famous as representing the last word in extrava-
gance. It is said that he presented Baruchi with
a string of pearls which must have cost over half
a million dollars. Her bosom friend Soubise was
the opposite type of beauty from Baruchi, who was
dark, luxuriously oriental. Soubise was blonde, and
therefore the contrast of their individual and su-
preme beauty made them intimate friends. I re-
member an incident, which illustrates the power of
beauty at the gaming tables. Madame Soubise had
been playing for some time, and having lost every
penny she possessed, was about to leave, when a
certain prince of the old aristocracy of France
turned to the croupier and said, "Madame is good
for twenty-five thousand francs, please go on." I
especially remember her purse, which was a tri-
umph of the goldsmith's art. It was a huge gold
shell, deeply set with Brazilian diamonds of the
purest colour. On one side was the coat of arms
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ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS
of emeralds and topaz. The purse hung on a chain
attached to her girdle, which, according to the
fashion of the time, was made of Persian turquoise
and Siberian rubies. The girdle and the purse were
valued by a famous jeweller in Paris at seven hun-
dred thousand francs. She always dressed magnifi-
cently, creating a slender silhouette, with her long,
trailing skirts gracefully draped about her. She
was a singularly graceful creature with dreamy
green eyes. She looked like one of those pictures
painted by Marckhardt. She reigned supreme in
her world, and her entertainments were attend-
ed by all the great aristocrats of the period.
Her hotel was very wonderful and was beauti-
fully decorated. She was a woman of fine taste,
and her home was one of the show places in
Paris. It is interesting to get a glimpse of the
setting in which this feminine jewel lived for so
long.
Her bedroom represented an Indian temple of
Buddha. There were no chairs visible. The room
was furnished with wonderful Kurdistan and
Smyrna carpets. Her parquet floor was cov-
ered with Indian shawls. Her tapestries were
Gobelins and Beauvais. Appropriately or not,
they represented biblical scenes, such touching
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
episodes as Joseph being sold by his brethren,
Moses in the Bulrushes, the drowning of
the Egyptians and many fine reproductions of
Hogarth.
Her boudoir was in turquoise velvet, the hangings
of Pointe de Flanders, attached with huge cords and
tassels, festooning the draperies, which hung in
folds to the bottom of the floor. The floor itself
was inlaid with arabesque of Malachite mosaics.
The door knobs were of sterling silver. When her
bric-a-brac was sold, it brought over five million
francs.
She was very charitable but she treated her ad-
mirers with very little consideration. Mammon
really meant nothing to her, for she ignored the
wonderful men who had showered countless jewels
upon her when she met a penniless young man who
was a croupier at Homburg, with whom she eloped.
The dominating figures of these gambling rooms,
however, were Paul Demidoff and the great gam-
bler Garcia. They were the Neros of the Goddess
of Fortune. They did not fiddle, but they whis-
tled, and all that was corrupt in society was held
spellbound. They threw showers of gold and notes
at the women they admired, who fluttered around
them, like moths in the glare. The hilarity of the
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ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS
life during the gambling season was sustained by
Count Caroli and Prince Esterhazy.
The atmosphere of the salons de jeu was over-
perfumed perhaps, but it was a hot-house of arti-
ficial flowers in human form, brilliantly illuminated
by the huge crystal chandeliers of the period of
Louis XV. It was a crowd gone mad with de-
sire for gold at any price, and the study of their
faces in the midst of these miserable ambitions was
often ghastly. I think it is generally known that
the Russians are the most regardless and extrava-
gant gamblers, and so these gaming tables were
usually surrounded by grand dukes and their beau-
tiful followers.
I remember particularly a striking figure, the
Princess Yourowska. She was always attended by
her footman in gorgeous livery, who stood behind
her jauteuil, holding a case of Louis d'ors. She
would frequently reach behind her, without looking,
into this case, and place her bets. She dipped so
frequently into this gold, that the case was some-
times quickly emptied. She was a good loser, and
M. Blanc a big winner. She was not the only
woman tempted solely by the thrills of inexhaustible
chance, there was always that beautiful Russian,
the Princess Souvaroff, who, with her commanding
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
figure, all could see was an enthusiastic gambler.
Like all the Russians and the Poles, they loved to
gamble. It was really an inspiring sight, to see the
absolute calm with which the Grand Dukes Alexis
and Nicholas would take their places behind the
table, stake the maximum, walk away, and when
the croupiers, in their soulless, nasal voices, lazily
pronounced the fate of others in the usual phrase,
"Rien ne va plus," their Imperial Highnesses would
leisurely either pick up their games, or withdraw
calmly to begin again.
There were many famous women, of course, who
perhaps were better gamblers than the men, be-
cause, while they but lighted the fires to consume
others, they were themselves of the asbestos quality.
It seems to me that this particular type of woman
has rather disappeared from the world of to-day,
and therefore we can look upon her at this distance,
with the analytical audacity of curious observers.
There comes to my mind a woman who excessively
and completely represents the type — Cora Pearl.
As to beauty, as to the arts of love, as to her knowl-
edge which contact with the world in its most com-
plex relations had given her, she was supreme. Her
worldliness made her a prime favourite. In her
men saw all their longings, she depicted the com-
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ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS
plete living identity of the woman of their dreams.
Every man has some such woman, but he rarely
meets her. She was a woman who took extreme
pains to study the art of deception. It is said she
would stand before the mirror, practising fond
glances, developing the magic of her eyes.
For the heroes of her amours she had no sym-
pathy, but she would pretend to listen to them, with-
out a tremor in her heart. Some people called her
beauty diabolical, if there is such a thing. I do not
believe that beauty of any sort can, in its original
birthright, have anything but a divine purpose,
though it is often diabolically managed.
Cora Pearl was accused of being a supremely
gifted actress of heroine's parts, off the stage. Un-
questionably her beauty was of the kind that lifts
men's souls above all tenderness. I recall almost
verbatim a confession she made to me once, and
I quote it here because it is a rare document of hu-
man heartlessness. She had the strength of the
weak, which in women is a fascinating study in
morals.
When Armand Duval, the son of the famous res-
taurateur, being rejected by Cora Pearl, shot him-
self one night in front of her door, she made this
extraordinary exclamation :
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
"I do not know what it is to be anything but a
courtesan, people may call me what they like. I
follow my own inclinations, I take my own road. I
was born to take what I can get. There have been
some agreeable things in my life, such as spend-
ing a fortune in two years. I always knew, of
course, that I was irresistible, — I knew that I was
a vampire. I knew that I adored the golden calf,
and it mattered little to me who worshipped me, or
where, so long as I could shine. My greatest treas-
ure was my marble skin, which I kept like ivory.
I knew that the man I favoured took much pride
in his imaginary success. He became a Paragon in
the club."
She was a modern Cleopatra, her idea of life be-
ing that she would have accomplished her destiny
when she had perpetuated the name of one of the
most noble courtesans.
She had a particular weakness for princes, and
usually talked marriage. Of course, she only pre-
tended, everything she did was sham, she had no
desire for any sincerity, but she was desirous of be-
coming a princess of the House of Orange. She
preferred, of course, princes who were bachelors or
widowers, and she pursued also married nobles who
were in a fair way to become widowers. Many of
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ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS
the men she selected were strangers whom she had
never seen, and among them several who had never
thought of her, and who never did think of her.
Part of her creed in the religion of love was that
she should never be adored by a man below the rank
of prince. That is why, perhaps, she survived the
tragedy of Armand Duval's suicide, that was the
reason for her disdainful rejection of his love. She
accepted the idea of love in the abstract, repudiat-
ing the idea of true love, because she was logical to
her destiny. She was strong-minded, and fully
realized the danger of permitting her heart to inter-
fere. Her portrait hangs in a celebrated gallery,
where spectators of all kinds, including the clergy,
collect and meditate, and linger, to admire. The
strong will of a beautiful woman can defeat un-
natural influences, and knowing this, she made no
hypocritical attempt to hide her character.
She died in abject misery, asking alms of those
men whom she had spurned in her early days. She
grew tired of grovelling like a worm in the world
of pleasure where she had reigned, where her for-
mer lovers had forgotten her, and the choir boys
gathered around her humble grave and sang, "Rest
m Feace.
One of the favourite boil mots of this period in
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
the seventies, among these people of the gambling
instinct, which interprets the license of the time, is
worth quoting. It was this :
"Our Emperor Napoleon stuffs his ears with cot-
ton."
All women who had been beloved by Napoleon
III knew that they would be well treated in after
years. There were, of course, occasional quarrels
between the beautiful rivals for imperial favour. I
remember an incident illustrating this between the
famous Mrs. R. and Madame Soubise. They were
both devout Catholics. One day they met at the
Madeleine, both were suffering from a cold, both
entered a pew together, and both were sneezing. A
feud that had lasted for a long while, was patched
up, when one of the ladies handed the other a little
pot of cream and rosewater to rub on her nose.
Money came so fast and so easily in those colossal
salons in Homburg, Baden-Baden, Wiesbaden,
Monte Carlo, it was absolutely thrown away. There
were magnificent dinner parties cooked especially
for these royal gamblers that surpassed anything to
be found in the world.
And yet, were they happy?
I often wondered when I saw Paul Demidoff
with a petite blonde, Countess de G., what tradition
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ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS
could bring these two opposite beings together.
There was so much dross that glittered, so many-
parasites living in the rich soil. It was Paul Demi-
doff who, for the Countess de G., gave that cele-
brated masquerade which cost the fabulous sum of
three million roubles. The entire suite of salons
were hung in royal blue velour d' Utrecht with huge
cordelieres in silver, and the frieze entirely covered
with superb Burano lace. The entire scene was
lighted with millions of wax candles, shedding a
wonderful lustre. It required a separate staff of
footmen in gorgeous livery, merely to snuff the can-
dles, to prevent the grease from dropping on the
polished parquet floor. The effect of the dancers,
whirling slowly to the strains of Offenbach's de-
lightful music, was like a symbolic scene from the
underworld, the soft candle lights casting weird
shadows.
There was a Grand Duchess, dressed as Sappho,
dancing a gavotte with an Austrian Grand Duke,
dressed as an Incroyable. Baruchi and her type
came to the ball frankly as courtesans of the First
Empire, deftly leaving little to the imagination,
wearing sandals, pale rose tights, diamonds and
coral anklets, bracelets with gold and turquoise
chains, attached to their little fingers, as a Scara-
—109—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
mouche. It was all like a dream, only the figures
were alive.
Among the cavaliers one saw at these midnight-
till-sunrise feasts was the handsome Duke Alva-
rez de Toledo, who turned the heads of so many
women, his cousin the Marquis de Gandara, and the
Duke of Montegano, representing the fine flower
of the court of the Queen Isabel of Spain, who, by
the way, was a lady who counted her lovers in
legions. One saw also General Pirn, who was her
constant companion. Her quiet little husband,
Francis D 'Assise, was only an onlooker. She was
a woman of tremendous size, very jovial, debonair,
a "real good sport." None of her children were
ever quite so popular. Her handsome grenadiers
always stood at attention when this grand Queen
inspected her troops, and if history speaks the
truth, many of these stalwart soldiers owed their
promotion to her.
One cannot but think, while touching the royalty
of Spain in retrospect, of that beautiful woman, the
Infanta Eulali, a lover of music and books. She is
still a very charming woman, a great friend of the
Duchess de Richelieu, formerly the princess of Mo-
naco. It was the latter who made Isidore de Lara,
the musician, celebrated.
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ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS
These ladies, however, did not quite belong to the
era of triumph in the days of Napoleon III. They
were the comets only of the end of the Second Em-
pire. They often came to England, where I saw
them.
What delightful days of luxury those were in the
sixties, when one disappeared from the domestic
monotony for little pilgrimages to the gambling
salons and the races in Baden-Baden. Every one
flocked to this charming watering-place in the Black
Forest.
No one will forget that wonderful little rendez-
vous called Stephaniebad, where the most illustri-
ous, and notorious, people foregathered for break-
fast. It was an Elysium tucked away in the pines.
The exquisite aroma of those pines! Those little
river trout, fresh caught, served on those silver
dishes, invitingly curled up! The delicious coffee
and cream ! Indeed you were glad to be alive, and
those beautiful women, feasting in the morning sun
upon their eager prey, whom they confused that
they might destroy. They were the decoys of the
gambling rooms of Maison Blanc.
I can still see the faces of the gamblers gathered
around the gaming table. Faces that were human
masques of great fortune, or great despair. Their
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
bodies immobile, they stood like statues. I still
hear those delightful little screams of joy from the
women as they swooped down upon their winnings
from the tables. I also hear their little sighs of de-
spair, hideous little gasps of absolute ruin. Some-
times the ruin came in different forms.
I was present when Madame Adelina Patti, then
the Marquise de Caux, when dining, one evening
on the terrace, near the gaming tables, was startled
by her maid, Caroline, who came rushing to her
very excitedly to say that somebody had ransacked
her rooms and escaped with all her jewels. She
never recovered them, and they represented a huge
fortune. Later, she became a bit tired of her vola-
tile husband, who, being aide-de-camp of Napoleon
III, waved his handkerchief so often at the ladies
that Patti finally separated from him peacefully.
Her second husband, Nicolini, who was certainly
more like a hair-dresser than anything else, was al-
ready married and had several children, when her
romance began. She made him divorce his Italian
wife, leave his children, and paid his wife a large
indemnity. She gave employment to his daugh-
ters, or at least educated them. Nicolini died, and
Adelina Patti's widowhood became involved in a
third matrimonial enterprise, with Baron Cedar-
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ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS
strom, who came from a very aristocratic Swedish
family with no money. They married, I believe
very happily, notwithstanding that he was thirty
years younger than herself.
Perhaps the most inveterate gambler of the sa-
lons was the Countess KislefF, who with her son
almost built the little city of Homburg which they
ultimately lost. Homburg repaid them by naming
a street, KislefF Strasse. I can see the old lady
now in her ample white wig profusely ornamented
with artificial flowers. On the hottest day she wore
a heavy black mantilla of velvet, and her dress, also
a black velvet, had a sweeping train which fell in
gorgeous folds behind her. Her esclavage, a huge
necklace peculiar to that period, which was wound
many times about the neck and hung far down on
the body, was of such enormous precious stones that
the countess attracted the attention of the multi-
tude, through which she passed on entering the
gaming salon, for she was eccentric to a degree.
Her servants were always with her, and she was
carried in a sedan chair of the Louis IV period to
the gaming salons. She lived in them, entering
them at eleven A. M. and never leaving them till
eleven P. M. Her luncheon was brought in to her
on a silver tray. After luncheon she would take her
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
money rake and begin afresh with all her cards be-
side her, and all the tricks of her system to break
the bank at work. Her system usually failed, but
she occasionally made a great deal of money. Judg-
ing by the amount of money she lost, her fortune
must have been superior to Rothschild's. Her son
inherited a colossal fortune, which permitted him
to live where he liked and how he liked. Naturally
he was very popular with the stage beauties, par-
ticularly with a French dancer of the type which
was then so much admired in the world-famous
"Black Crook." The peculiarity of this type was
that all the ladies of the ballet wore black tights
and red shoes.
I recall the trio of graceful dancers, Madame
Brunette, Finette, and Bouhelier, who were the
attraction of the Little Theatre in Homburg. Then
there was the famous Fidelaire, who danced so
gracefully on a thin wire rope. The code of that
period was to enjoy life at any cost, our code is to
take the best and leave the dregs.
It was at Compiegne where, when the hunting
season began, one saw the most wealth and nobil-
ity of the old regime. Here one saw the Countess
of M., the Countess de G., the Princess S., the Mar-
quise L., the Duchess de M. A romance of this
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ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS
time was that of the Duke D'Aumale waiting for
his beloved Blanche D'Antinguee, that glorious
creature with the lovely ash-blonde hair and a fig-
ure like a Juno, who was such a favourite in that
play, "The Craven Eye." He gave her the most
beautiful hotel in the Avenue Bois de Boulogne.
It was she who was afterwards immortalised by
Emil Zola in his book called "Nana."
— 115— ^
CHAPTER IV
COURT SOCIETY AROUND THE PRINCE OF WALES
No one can read this story of the society that sur-
rounded royalty in England, during the regime,
without feeling that it is pre-eminently a history of
mixed hypocrisy and convincing scandal. The
story of the Court of St. James, from that period
when the Prince of Wales was perhaps twenty, and
whose first guide into the world of romance was
one of the most brilliant and beautiful women of
the Court, the Duchess of M ; to that period
of mature diplomacy which has placed him in the
record of international affairs as the greatest of
royal diplomats, there is a ceaseless list of beautiful
women and wonderful amours. It is my intention
to take individually and separately each one of
those favourite Court beauties who influenced the
career of Edward VII. This is to be a chronicle,
chiefly, of the brilliant trail along which royalty
and its contemporaries have travelled downward.
It is a chronicle told entirely from my personal
—116—
COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES
knowledge and experience of Court life, and may
therefore contain unknown and untold incidents
that gossip and rumour have more or less distorted.
In later chapters the psychology of love, as it in-
fluenced the Court of Great Britain, will be de-
veloped objectively. It is my purpose only, in these
opening pages, therefore, to prepare the way.
One must put aside the most important tradi-
tions of convention, one must look upon the heart
stories of these beautiful women comprehendingly,
with a sympathy, with a broad idea that the morals
of love must not be stupefied by convention. Re-
membering, that in the reign of Edward VII so-
ciety plunged from the heights of the sublime to the
verge of the ridiculous, we must reluctantly assume
that the strong and simple character of Queen Vic-
toria was not sustained by the heir apparent to the
throne. Unquestionably he was sorely tempted.
Quite early in his royal career, the prince estab-
lished such blundering relationships with the beau-
ties of the Court of St. James, that only his ex-
treme good humour and personal tact saved him
from open scandal. There was no special reserve
of attitude, no sacred circle drawn around his royal
presence. He was the subject of much gossip at
the London clubs, where men irreverently asked
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
each other, "Who is the prince's latest mash?"
I gathered something of the splendour of His
Royal Highness 's tastes in love, from the gowns I
designed for these Court beauties. Like other men,
His Royal Highness was lured by the dazzle of
laces and satins. They were decidedly enticing,
these lovely women, when I had finished with them.
In the interval, during which they went through the
processes of my fitting room, they confided to me
the secrets of their vanities, their ambitions, and —
some of them, of their hearts. I made many of
their dresses, and some startling negligees. One
really could not blame any man, not even the
Prince of Wales, for submitting to their enticing
beauty.
It was not only the affairs in which His Royal
Highness was concerned that established the char-
acter, may I say the dissipation of the Court of St.
James. When, at the age of twenty, His Royal
Highness found himself the leader of the highest
social circles of England, there had been scandals,
and there had been love stories that should have
shocked him, had he inherited the strict qualities of
his adorable mother, Queen Victoria.
In the early eighties, for instance, one of the most
charming women was the Dowager -Cpuntess
—118—
COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES
C , who found relief from prosaic surroundings
in a romance with the Duke of B , then the
Earl of W. It was a romance that lasted for many-
years, and perhaps would have been undisturbed
until now, except for the appearance on the horizon
of a Madame de T , who openly rivalled the
exquisite Countess. The result of this situation
was much anonymous and libellous correspond-
ence which produced almost a law suit that would
have steeped London society deep in the mire.
It was a most unsavoury condition, and was
widely talked about in London society. The Dow-
ager Countess C.'s husband was divorced several
times. His son went on the stage after marrying
a chorus girl. The most extraordinary part of this
relation is the fact that it was generally accepted,
and sustained among their friends. They were
usually invited together by hostesses of brilliant po-
sition, and their intimacy was not disturbed or criti-
cised. In fact, it was generally understood that the
Dowager Countess C. would eventually marry her
aristocratic affinity on the death of her husband.
When the Duke of B. transplanted his affections,
it was a great blow to her. The Duke, however,
married her rival, and has been singularly happy
and devoted to his family. The Dowager Countess
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
C. retired into absolute seclusion. It was a mys-
terious fact in the history of these romances of
Court life, that the heart-broken took their punish-
ment with singular courage. Doubtless, there is a
great reserve force in the pride which lies in the
blood of the aristocrat. The Dowager Countess, in
after years, only referred to her devotion to the
Duke of B. with a certain peculiar pride in the fact
that she had never been ruled by conventions of the
world. Her daughter married well, but inherited
the flirtatious qualities of her mother. She became
the second wife of Lord W., because his first wife,
Lady Lilian W., was involved in a love affair with
the Marquis of S., whose adventures were notori-
ous.
In these chronicles of Court romance, Lady Lil-
ian W. ranks among the daring and regardless
beauties. She was of statuesque figure, had beau-
tiful Titian hair, and her extreme tastes and ex-
travagance in dress became practically an asset for
the luxurious but questionable marquis. He was an
attache in one of the Courts of Europe. Because
of his peculiar complexion he was spoken of in so-
ciety as "The Blue Monkey." I believe that for
some inexplicable reason, probably the caprice of
femininity, he was rather enthusiastically admired.
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COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES
In the sense of certain acknowledged qualities that
go to make up the term "thorough gentleman" he
was accepted everywhere. He was a thoroughbred,
an intimate of His Royal Highness. They were
constantly together. Many were the trips up the
river to Oxford they had together.
How wonderful all these favoured women were,
— tall, beautiful figures, lovely heads, faces like ma-
donnas, hair that intoxicated. One in particular I
recall, who to-dav is in the Red Cross sisterhood,
whose waist was so marvellously slender that His
Royal Highness, when waltzing with her, declared
that he was afraid she would break in half, — but
of course she didn't. The Prince of Wales seemed
to have a taste for witty and spirituelle women, in
his earlier years at least. This particular Court
beauty was a splendid billiard player. Her week-
end parties were always attended by officers of the
crack regiments.
Among the Court beauties was that extraordi-
nary freak of British aristocracy, the Marquis of
Anglesea, who looked, dressed, and aspired to be
a woman. He was the fashionable female imper-
sonator of royalty. He gave special performances
in his private theatre on his estate at Bodaseer in
Wales. It was his custom to invite all the attrac-
—121—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
tive chorus girls to these performances, and to re-
ward them with presents of magnificent diamonds.
He had a collection of emeralds that were the finest
in the world. His fearful extravagance eventually
brought him into bankruptcy. His peculiar dissi-
pation was probably inherited, for his father di-
vorced his first wife, an American, so that he could
retire from the world with the Countess de G., the
sister of the notorious Princess S., whose career is
discussed later on. The Countess de G. was a lit-
tle woman, very Russian, very barbaric. She lived
for many years at the historical castle at Bodaseer,
in Wales. Her daughter's trousseau was the most
gorgeous ever made, I think. She married the
Honourable E. Stanhope, son of the Marquis of H.
His Royal Highness made a special visit to the
dressmaker, to see this trousseau.
The Court of St. James may have had the out-
ward air of lethargy, may have seemed indolent,
but the early nursery training of royalty had evi-
dently failed to stifle the intrigues of romance. A
complete record of the heart burnings at the Court
of St. James is quite impossible; it would require
a dictionary to define its moral psychology. One
recalls, however, a few of the high spots in the
romantic wilderness of inexplicable love affairs.
—122—
COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES
For instance, there was the famous Zulu beauty,
as she was called, the celebrated Mrs. D. S., wife
of a South-African millionaire. He had untold
wealth, and when they came to London they were
warmly received. She may have inherited some-
thing of the freedom of the South African veldts,
for she was singularly willing to meet His Royal
Highness clandestinely. With her bosom friend,
Mrs. W., they took a house in Kensington, and
there received His Royal Highness through the
subterfuge of social receptions. These receptions
were a little overdone, as the two women were both
inclined to extremes. The staircase of their house
was banked with lilies of the valley and violets,
the boudoir smothered with Bankshire roses, in
honour of His Royal Highness. A present peer of
the realm fell in love with her. Her husband nat-
urally divorced her, but His Royal Highness ob-
jected to her marriage with the peer, and her ro-
mance with the latter was a failure. In fact, I
believe that His Royal Highness found means to
estrange her from her aristocratic lover, and
brought about the result of her remarriage to her
husband. She functions now as a matron in one
of the big hospitals in London, where she nurses
the heroes from the trenches. Her only son went
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
into the Seventh Hussars, and became aide-de-
camp to one of the British generals.
It is impossible to escape a sense of wonder as to
whether the conventions which are supposed to
protect one's emotions should be adopted, or
adapted to our hearts. So many of these Court
beauties of a younger generation are now per-
forming wonderful and heroic services for the
wounded. So many of them began with a fever-
ish disregard of commonplace respectability, and
are now accepted as teachers and sisters of mercy.
To the philosopher, it is worth studying, this whirl
of emotions which brings so many women to a real-
ization of higher and better things than the vani-
ties of love.
As an instance of this thought, there is the won-
derful devotion and sincere friendship existing be-
tween the Marchioness of R. and Her Majesty the
Dowager Queen Alexandra. In her early life the
marchioness, because of her regardless amours, was
the laughing-stock of Paris. She was notorious
among the undesirable women of fashion. A won-
derful woman, with extraordinary beauty, who
has emerged from the mire of her emotions to the
heights of a friendship with the most distinguished
woman in England.
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COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES
There was an unwritten law among these hand-
some women of the Court of St. James, and per-
haps their beauty and their wit were often miscon-
strued in the opinion of those men who reason
badty. However, being Ladies and Gentlemen of
the Court of St. James, silence among them be-
came an axiom. It had grown up with them, be-
come a part of themselves, like a sense of honour.
Then too, they had to be silent, to avoid being
talked about, or endure the penalty of being forever
cast out of the royal circle. Many of the mar-
riages of these beautiful women and rather idle
men were failures.
That charming American girl from Baltimore,
who married a duke of the realm, learned the un-
written law of the Court of St. James. There was
a guardsman who laid down the law to her. She
was not really to blame, for her husband chose a
pseudo-duchess, one Belle Bilton, and with her he
lived his romance apart. She indeed rose supreme.
Then, there was that charming American actress
of the musical stage, who even to-day retains her
beauty and her lovely child-like expression. She
married, and her memoirs to-day would make in-
teresting reading for those English aristocrats who
adored her. Love was in the air! In the Court
—125—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
of St. James it was perpetual springtime. One
never knew where one would stumble upon an un-
expected romance.
Most of these wonderful women of the Court of
St. James, at least those who inspired the greatest
love stories, were not young women. They had
passed the meridian of life, and I often wondered
how brilliantly they kept those eminent men who
were celebrities in the diplomatic and military life
of England. The Englishman of aristocratic
tendencies, however, is usually more charmed by
women of subtlety and wit than by the most radi-
ant youthfulness. Such women, for instance, as
Lady Sara Wilson, dominant, independent, brave,
executive. Her book, which contained the stories
of her experiences during her imprisonment at
Mafeking, in South Africa, was widely read. It
was a many-sided picture of the life among British
officers out there, and she was very much admired
for her delicate handling of certain romantic inci-
dents. She was by no means beautiful, but she
deserved the glory of her success since she was
proud, as all the Churchills are. She came of a
family that had many romantic adventures. In
fact, the entire atmosphere in which these ladies of
the Court of St. James lived, might have been en-
—126—
COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES
tirely contemporary with the Court of Louis XIV.
One wonders how Queen Victoria, who was so ex-
ceptionally apart in character from the quality of
the Court of St. James, did not in some vigorous
way dispel the vulgarism of English society. There
was a time when the garden parties at Marlborough
House were practically dominated by a trio of
famous beauties who were known as The Three
Graces. They were Mrs. C. W., Mrs. W., and
Mrs. L. The success of these social events was
practically created by the beauty and elegance of
these women. And yet, men and women in the
street knew perfectly well their scandalous reputa-
tions. But then, there was hardly any member of
the aristocracy at the Court during these times, who
had not played some questionable character in some
undesirable romance.
Surely every one recalls that wonderful case
where a lady of one of the proudest families of
Scotland, a sister of one of The Three Graces, was
called upon to give evidence that her infant was
the offspring of the future King of England.
Also it is perhaps not forgotten that she was put
into an asylum where some people affirm she still
is. And after all, she only spoke the truth, in
spite of the fact that the future King of England
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
had to go upon the witness stand to contradict the
venomous reports which made the whole of London
ashamed.
As in all Courts, it was the custom for the aristo-
crats of the Court to exert all their strength and
polish to consolidate the ruling passions of the sov-
ereign, or the heir apparent. This may explain
many of the disturbing elements of the English
Court which have passed into the chronicles of scan-
dal. The first event in the amours of His Royal
Highness which stirred society to its depths, was
his affair with the beautiful English actress.
As a human document she has become one of the
most interesting in the entire history of the Court
of St. James, because perhaps she has survived the
customary downfall. She preserved her incognito
fairly well, but when receiving His Royal High-
ness assumed her new relationship with gusto. So
as to facilitate the laxity of His Royal Highness'
domestic ties at Court, many revels had been trans-
ferred to the houses of his boon companions, where
this beautiful English actress met him. To be
sure, she was supplanted by other beautiful women,
but her reign was as glorious as theirs. She
amassed a huge fortune, and it is said beggared
one or two millionaires. Colossal sums passed
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COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES
through the hands of these Court beauties of the
nineteenth century. Of course, a great deal of
this money went to the jewellers, the dressmakers,
who must have profited enormously. Doubtless
she would like to have been able to retain the con-
stancy of her royal swain, but not, I imagine, be-
cause she wished to satisfy her heart.
I wonder if she really possessed one?
The affair with Sir Robert Peel, the episode con-
cerning the loss of her diamonds at her beautiful
house in London, helped to sever their very close
relationship. I am sure it was an evil day when
she broke the golden thread. She still retains his
autographed photos which always adorn her abid-
ing place, whether it is the Carlton in London or
the Ritz in New York — for her royal lover became
a reigning sovereign. Her marriage was decidedly
one of convenience. Her husband had been her
friend, and was anxious to marry her but she used
to tell him, "Stay your tears, postpone them for
another time." Later he became her husband, and
they lived together only pro tern., parting quite
amiably, for both had attained their end, he an in-
come, and she a fortune.
The love story of the beautiful countess whose
sumptuous presence and exquisite personality en-
—129—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
tirely captured His Royal Highness from the time
they first met at a Court function is well known.
In a later chapter I deal more fully with this phase
of this adorable Court beauty who, when the end of
her romance came, had to face outrageous calum-
nies. Some really thought her more sinned against
than sinning. She was a familiar figure in Hyde
Park, in Bond Street. Her motor was so original
that it attracted wide attention. It was entirely
white outside and in.
—130-
CHAPTER V
THE GALLANTRIES OF HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
During his younger days, His Royal Highness
undoubtedly kept open house in his heart for the
ladies. He never entirely closed the door to them
in after years. To the last he sent them valuable
presents, as he did in his youth. There is consola-
tion in the thought (to those of us who are prud-
ish) that the late King Edward VII clung with
the greatest affection and respect to his lovely prin-
cess and Queen.
It was at a wedding party in one of the minor
German states that the Prince of Wales proposed
to the Princess Alexandra of Denmark. Her
beauty, her character, her remarkable dignity and
grace have passed into contemporary history with-
out a challenge. Never have a monarch and his
consort been so idolised and so loved by the masses,
the classes and the aristocracy, as King Edward
VII and Queen Alexandra. Men went mad
about her beauty, but there has never been a breath
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
of scandal about her. Her eldest son, the Duke of
Clarence, bore a striking resemblance to her. Her
eldest daughter, the Duchess of Fife, like herself,
married for love, a man twenty years her senior, a
man who had sowed his wild oats as the friend of
her father. Of course, rumours of His Majesty's
love affairs must have reached the ears of the
Queen. Frequently, no doubt, these rumours were
exaggerated. I was told that Queen Alexandra ex-
pressed herself to an inquisitive inquiry concerning
her royal husband, as follows : —
"If all that the world says of my liege, the King,
is only in a small degree true, all I can say is that
I am very proud to possess such a wonderful per-
sonality."
The women of the Court of St. James who fell
into the turmoil of luxury, under the sway of the
more plebeian instincts of man, which surrounded
the royal person of this charming prince, were
really not in very serious danger because they were
mostly in the fullness of their maturity, or if
younger, they had grown old before their time, per-
haps robbed themselves to give their best to their
royal prince. There was unquestioned rivalry,
and the shock when the downfall of a favourite did
come, was socially overwhelming.
—132—
THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H.
The fate of the beautiful countess who for so
long had been as the Bridge of Sighs to the prince's
love affairs, was really in his hands. The affair
was broken at the desire of the prince, but at that
time the countess had outgrown her infatuation for
the man. At the beautiful castle, where she enter-
tained him, everything was always very quiet and
in excellent order. Being independently rich, she
could surround herself with regal luxury. There
was never any noise or confusion in the manage-
ment of this castle. To be sure, the prince had
moments when his royal dignity burst bounds, as
when he chased a party into the pastry cook's pan-
try, and pelted them with flour. Royalty some-
times enjoys a primitive sense of humour, the un-
dignified quality of such horseplay was shown on
the blank faces of his royal followers. Then too,
there were occasional whispers of it in the critical
press, which is the worst punishment of vulgarism.
While the countess entertained the royal prince,
at the time being fully aware that her sway was
weakened, the new Aspasia, who was not at all a
woman of the world, reluctantly spent her evenings
at home. She was exquisitely fair, with blue-green
eyes, and of course bright red lips. The happiness
which she expected from her liaison with royalty
—133—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
died almost at its birth. However, she must be
remembered in the history of Court scandal as hav-
ing played the part of a royal mistress in name at
any rate. She was loyal to her royal admirer, and
furthermore, she gained the love and respect of
other ladies of the Court. Even the countess, often
dismissed by historians with curt etiquette, tried to
cheer up her existence in after years. She always
behaved with sad dignity and gentleness in her
trying position. It is not recorded that the Prince
of Wales suffered from any shattered ideals. It
may be assumed that in the midst of his amours
certain refinements expected of royalty were not
too scrupulously sustained in his courtships. These
reflections, of course, are in retrospect, gathered
from information and impressions received from
those who were in the heart of things at court dur-
ing the regime of the late Queen Victoria and the
young Prince of Wales.
It was in the summer, when all the world of hu-
manity tumbled pell-mell from the reserve of win-
ter, that the prince and his consort withdrew to
Cowes, a celebrated watering place. It was at
Cowes that many of the court intrigues were
stirred. It was here that a certain grand duchess
of a very cold country fell under the spell of moon-
—134—
THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H.
lit mesmerism. It is recorded that the young
prince invited the grand duchess one evening for a
sail on his yacht. She slipped away with him, un-
attended by any lady-in-waiting, which is a for-
bidden act of royalty. Forgetful of all restric-
tions, they wandered away, and it is said she told
him in an irresponsible moment of feminine thrill-
dom that she felt her incognito might place her un-
der suspicion. Finally they reached a place at the
end of the lawn, where the yacht was supposed to
be, in the w r ater beyond, and there was no sign of
it. History says there was a dreadful moment of
suspense, for she suddenly realised that the grand
duke, her husband, was probably in search of her,
and grand dukes of cold countries are very choleric.
In the midst of this pause, a footman ran breath-
lessly towards the prince, and reported that the
yacht had been moored a little further down the
coast. The grand duchess was soon on deck again.
The Prince's fidelity towards the fair sex was
always rather delicate. His affair with a cele-
brated stage beauty made her notorious in the
course of her first year at the Court of St. James,
not him. His tactics were those of the sheathed
hand. As a man, he was a great patron of art, of
literature, of industrial enterprises, and he was al-
—135—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
ways able to promote the fortune of the ladies he
admired. She, of course, this stage beauty, was
enamoured of wealth. Relentless in her relations,
she attained a dominance over the prince and his
mind that was surprising to lookers-on. Person-
ally, she was not very much liked, her mental hori-
zon did not extend beyond her innate consciousness
of her physical powers. She was unflinching in the
face of scandal, though not without the capacity
for tremour. She was not entirely exempt from
self-deception, knowing well that she often chilled
the public that went to see her out of curiosity. She
was never a popular idol, like Nell Gwynn of King
Charles's times, and she treated her public with a
shrug of her beautiful shoulders, of which she was
so proud. These were matters, however, which did
not disturb His Royal Highness. He never al-
lowed any bonds which fettered him to be strained
by this stage beauty. She was a human document,
written in a cipher which had not been mastered
and never solved. Sometimes she was very de-
lightful. They were always on friendly terms,
even after the break, and sometimes they dined to-
gether.
I am only writing those impressions that I have
gathered of Court life, and drawing conclusions
—136—
THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H.
from the conditions as I find them. Allowances
can be reasonably made for His Royal Highness,
whose youthful gallantries in his earlier days were
not entirely his own fault. How the women pur-
sued him with their gaze! How they courtesied
when he went about! They followed him really
much more than he followed them; he was a man,
and sorely tempted. His successes were obviously
unavoidable. Sometimes his amours took a tragic
trend.
Fascinated by the appearance of a charming wo-
man, whom he saw crossing the courtyard of St.
James's Palace, one day, he sent his valet, an Aus-
trian, with a secret message, expressing his admira-
tion. There was nothing ambiguous about it, — it
was a clear confession of admiration. The lady
was not prepared to be seized by royal flattery, but
later indicated a house of rendezvous. The secret
appointment was kept. This unknown lady, I
have heard, was particularly effective in the choice
of the fine linen and her crepe de chine petticoats.
In discussing her, even her dressing gown, which
was of the finest batiste and Valenciennes lace, was
spoken of with wonder and admiration by His
Royal Highness to a friend. He pleaded for an-
other interview, for another chance to see her again.
—137—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Her reply was as sincere a bit of feminine subtlety
as one might expect. She told him that until she
became enamoured of a prince she had been a very
faithful wife to her husband, and that therefore
one lapse should not be allowed to become a cus-
tomary favour. She reminded him of her sacrifice
in keeping the first rendezvous, but His Royal
Highness insisted. Finally she invited him to visit
her a second time at the house of her sister in Lon-
don near Regents Park. The story goes that His
Highness went to this house at the appointed time,
and found it brilliantly lighted. He knocked at
the door but there was no answer. Astonished and
baffled, he returned to the street where a young
man brushed against him.
"I have called to see Madame R.," he said.
"She is dead!" said the young man.
It is said that His Royal Highness went to a
great deal of trouble to get to the bottom of her
mysterious death, without success. It was ru-
moured, however, that she was poisoned by her hus-
band, who had discovered the liaison with the
prince.
I presume that often His Royal Highness
poured out his confessions to his friend, Lord Far-
quhar, who was his chum, but in later years, in the
—138—
THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H.
newer responsibilities of the throne, His Majesty
became more orderly, more subdued. During all
his reign, which was far too short, he was seldom
in a rage. With the exception of the famous inci-
dent which relates to the indiscretion of a lady of
the stage, who dropped a piece of ice down his back
at a banquet, King Edward never lost his temper.
I do not believe he ever hated any one. He was
sometimes a little undecided, but he always deferred
difficulties to the future. Not that he lacked the
courage to face the music, but that he was wise.
Not all the ladies of the court were so graciously
willing to submit to his royal gallantries. There
was one charming young aristocratic girl, who,
fearing the fascination of His Royal pursuit,
threatened to immure herself in a convent for
safety. She confessed this desire to her mother,
and gave her reasons. Her mother said this to
her:
"If you were some old woman, who had only a
few years to live, your desire to enter a convent
would not be so unusual. But, for a lovely girl
like yourself, pure and unattached, to enter a con-
vent so as to flee from a future king, is too ridicu-
lous. Has his conversation ever caused you any
scruples, my dear? It's all nonsense. Continue
—139—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
to live in society, continue to cherish all his kind-
nesses, and be happy."
This incident actually confirmed the impression
that His Royal Highness made upon the ladies of
his court, or the impressions they made for him. I
am inclined to think there were some exaggerations.
There were certain modesties about the Prince of
Wales that seemed to contradict any deep instinct
for dissipation in him. For instance, he was ab-
normally fond of lemon cheese-cakes, a very harm-
less passion, although they were called, in defer-
ence to the prince's taste, "Maids of Honour." He
was rather an epicure in pastry. He very much
preferred the English sort, however. These facts
were discovered about His Royal Highness because
when people invited him out they wanted to know
what were his favourite dishes. He disliked long
dinners, and sometimes, to avoid indigestion, he
requested the privilege of making the menu him-
self. But above all things he enjoyed a good din-
ner, and a good cigar, the Vally-Vally or a Bock
being his favourite brand. He was usually short
of ready money, and was always assisted by his
friends, the late Baron Hirsch and Sassoon. The
prince and these two gentlemen made an enchant-
ing trio, well known about London.
—140—
THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H.
I do not think that these habits of the young
prince ever entirely left him during his reign.
There was always a feigned boyishness, an irre-
sponsible smile about King Edward VII. He
seemed to be looking at the world with tolerant
amusement. It is said that he often told his inti-
mate friends, that his greatest wish was some day
to become president of the Republic of Great Brit-
ain. He was too intelligent a man to enjoy the
pomp and splendour with which his rank was sur-
rounded. The Prince of Wales was tone-giving,
to belong to his set was the social ambition of Lon-
don. I am more familiar, of course, with his later
years, that is to say from the time of his marriage,
than I could be with his early youth.
As a man, the Prince of Wales disciplined him-
self for his reign as King of England, to some ex-
tent. He did not allow state affairs to enter into
his private life. He was distinctly autocratic, do-
ing exactly what he chose, and permitting no inter-
ference of any sort that was likely to be a stumbling
block to what he had in view for an hour, for a day,
or for a month. Naturally, most of his engage-
ments were made for him. Every morning his
secretary would go up to the private suite of His
Royal Highness, a bed room and sitting room. In
—141—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
the latter room stood a Stock Exchange ticker, giv-
ing quotations of every bourse in the world. The
sitting room was more like a private office, con-
taining a huge desk adorned by all the portraits of
his family. The environment was simple but dis-
tinguished. In the bed room there was a little low
iron bed, on which His Majesty slept. It was most
unlike an apartment of the king.
In the outer corridor, of course, there were nu-
merous pages walking up and down, being ready to
announce any possible visitors. The private reti-
nue of the Princess of Wales, now the Dowager
Queen Alexandra of England, were all Danish.
The retinue of the Prince of Wales were all Ger-
man. These men, who were affable and well-bred
servants, passed their lifetime with their Royal
Highnesses. They were so devoted that one can
hardly believe they were servants. The simplicity
of the private apartments of royalty was certainly
in great contrast to the magnificence of the recep-
tion hall and staircases of the palace. I recall once
being obliged to wait rather a long time to see Her
Majesty Queen Alexandra because it happened
there was a great dinner party being given at the
time. I was asked to share the good things of this
royal banquet, and all the dishes which were passed
—142—
THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H.
to the royal dining room, I tasted. I was served
with the same food as the king and queen and their
royal guests. It took all my moral force to escape
the temptation of pocketing one of those exquisite
little gold coffee cups with Apostle spoons and
sugar tongs representing Medusa.
In my position as Court dressmaker I was, of
course, given many privileges in certain opportuni-
ties to meet royalties, and I was once offered a
large sum of money by a woman of social ambi-
tions to sit in my fitting room for one day. The
disguise would have been quite possible, but it was
a trick which would have been considered lese-
majeste. There were many women in London
society who seemed to be hemmed in, irresistibly
restrained from great social position, but who were
very rich.
There was Mrs. Claude W , who had been
one of the popular actresses at the Gaiety Theatre
in London, in the time of Nellie Farren. She was
a woman whose refinement of appearance would
have made her an ornament of elegance and beauty
to any society. She was quite admired by many
of the cavaliers who surrounded His Royal High-
ness. She dressed most extravagantly, and I was
told she owed her dressmaker in Paris at one time
—143—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
over five thousand pounds. Of course her husband
was the son of a rich brewer. He inherited mil-
lions, so that his wife lived in so lavish a manner
that she was the talk of London, where, by the way,
there was a great deal of extravagance. Colossal
fortunes were spent on jewels and ornaments that
dazzled the rich and the envious. The grand tier
of boxes at Covent Garden during the opera sea-
son was quite as brilliant as the horse-shoe at the
Metropolitan in New York. Most of the wealth
of London society in these days, when the Prince
of Wales revolutionised the customs of Queen Vic-
toria, was represented by American women.
There was the daughter of Mrs. Bradley Mar-
tin, Lady Craven, whose jewels were superb, and
who very often had with her her little friend, Mrs.
Sam Newhouse, an American woman who had glori-
ous pearls. People shot up the social ladder in Lon-
don society at this time as fast as their money could
lift them. Perhaps the example which His Royal
Highness gave to society at this time made it a
little more decadent. Under the mantle of Queen
Victoria's reign there was no room for the liberties
which were inaugurated by the prince. There were
embarrassing moments, or at least opportunities
for them in the rooms of a fashionable dressmaker,
— H4—
THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H.
Frequently, through mistake, a bill for a gown,
not intended for the wife, would accidentally reach
her. It might be for a copy of the identical gown
which she was wearing.
Then there was that delightful little community
that lived in St. John's Woods, the particular
quarter in London where tired husbands telephoned
their wives that they would be detained at the of-
fice. Deviltry was in the air, from the time the
Prince of Wales took the reins of London society
in his hands. It even demoralised such intellectual
giants as Lord Beaconsfield and Mr. Gladstone.
Gladstone had tremendous brain-power, several
times refused the peerage, and had a home life of
high ideals. He was, however, particularly fond
of the ladies, and often stopped on his way home
from parliament in front of a celebrated shop win-
dow in London, where the pictures of the reigning
beauties were always in evidence. When Mrs.
Asquith, who was Miss Tennant, was married, Mr.
Gladstone wrote her a letter of congratulation
which created a good deal of satirical comment.
"It is my fervent prayer," he wrote, "that you
shall always be the recipient of as much love as it
is possible for a gentleman to give you."
Mr. Gladstone was never a favourite of Queen
—145—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Victoria's, although she was a Tory, but kings and
queens cannot show favouritism.
One man, however, stands out in my recollections
of this early period of the Prince of Wales's social
reign, the Duke of Northumberland. He was the
tallest man in the realm, and founded a peculiar
religious sect called Unionists. Their religious
leaders were called Elders, and their doctrine was
the enlightenment of charity and love in its purest
form. The Duke of Northumberland was one of
the most celebrated men of this time. Lord Percy,
his eldest son, was accidentally killed in Paris. His
mother was a sister of the late Duke of Argyle.
It is a world of perpetual change, and little re-
mains of so many things in London which were
talked about at that time.
—146—
CHAPTER VI
BRIDES AND WEDDING GOWNS OF THE COURT
OF ST. JAMES
London in the early eighties was famous for the
extravagance and daring of the toilettes worn by-
its beautiful women. It was at this time I made
the trousseau of the only daughter of the Countess
de Galve, the Honourable Mrs. Stanhope. It was
the most extravagant trousseau that had been made
in London up to that time, and many people came
to get a glimpse of it. All the lingerie was
trimmed with priceless real lace, and of each article
there were six dozen. The bride was a beauty of
an absolutely Russian type. She was very well
formed, rather tall, and had many accomplish-
ments. She painted well, she was a fine musician,
a brilliant conversationalist. The wedding gown
was of real lace, point d' Alencon, with forget-me-
nots and lilies-of-the-valley. The bride's aunt, the
Princess Souvaroff, appeared at the wedding in
royal purple and orange velvet. She had been one
of the famous beauties of the Second Empire.
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Even the Prince of Wales came to look at and ad-
mire this marvellous collection of feminine crea-
tions, the news of their fabulous cost having
reached his ears.
"Where in the world did you conceive these
dainty impressions? What a happy mortal you
must be to be allowed to study the beautiful things
so near," said His Royal Highness.
The Countess de Galve, the bride's mother, was
so delighted with the result of my work that in
token of her appreciation she gave me a superb dia-
mond and sapphire marquise ring. This trousseau
was the most expensive I ever made, almost regal,
for it ran into four figures.
It was shortly after this that I made the wedding
gown for the two lovely daughters of the Countess
of Leitrim, who were married within a day of each
other. They were their Ladyships Winifred Ren-
shaw and Lady Vivian. They were each of them
different types of English beauty, but they were
both tall, erect, and distingue. Their bridal gowns
were of white satin charmeuse, with bridesmaids en
suite in palest rose. They were married in St.
Peter's Church, which is famous for its beautiful
choir. Lady Vivian, soon after her marriage, be-
came a widow, and I believe married again. Both
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BRIDES AND WEDDING GOWNS
these girls were good sports, and had been wonder-
fully brought up to open air life. Their late father
was a victim of the Irish feud, and was shot on their
own property. Her Ladyship, the Countess of
Leitrim, was a daughter of that celebrated sports-
man, Lord Leicester. Her sisters all married
peers of England. There is a romance attached
to the history of Lord Leicester's eldest son, who
disappeared from England and has never been
heard of since. These mysterious cupboards that
hold family skeletons are pretty liberally scattered
among the rich and powerful.
The fame of these trousseaux spread, and it be-
came the vogue for brides of this period to come
to me. Among the many brides I prepared for
the altar there was none more charming than the
pretty Countess of Arran, a Dutch girl, who cre-
ated quite a furore as a bride. She was the real
type of Holland beauty, tall and blonde. Her
husband was a great contrast to her, being a sturdy
man, a typical country squire of the old style. She
is living to-day upon her property in Ireland. She
was a very democratic, congenial girl, spoke many
languages very well, was a good horsewoman, and
her favourite idea of colour in her mode of dress was
pastel. She has become thoroughly English, her
—149—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
mother being an English woman, the daughter of
the late Sir Bowden of Australia, who was very
wealthy. One exquisite toilette I made for her,
I particularly remember, was of lilac crepe de
chine, trimmed with the most valuable Bucking-
hamshire lace. A court train gown of amethyst
velvet lined with sura, trimmed with huge pansies
and lilacs.
Among all the brides of my acquaintance, how-
ever, there was never one like Rachel Gurney, now
the Countess of Dudley. She was an epoch-mak-
ing bride.
Rachel Gurney was a beauty of the dark type,
and a musician of note. She played the harp di-
vinely, and had the most enchanting voice. She
was comparatively poor and was brought up by
the Marchioness of Tavistock, now Adeline, Duch-
ess of Bedford, a most beautiful woman, who
dressed always in perfect taste. Her sister, Laura
Gurney, now Lady Trowbridge, who is much ad-
mired for her literary taste, was brought up by
her Aunt, Lady Henry Somerset, well known in
America. Their mother, who was a sister of the
late Countess Somers, was also a real beauty.
When through the business failure of her late hus-
band, fortune proved fickle, she too entered the
—150—
QUEEN MARY
This photograph, showing Queen Mary in her magnificent Coronation Robe,
was given to the author as an expression of Her Majesty's appreciation of her
art. The gown was of satin, richly embroidered, and demanded the utmost
originality and skill on the part of its designer.
BRIDES AND WEDDING GOWNS
field of fashion as a modiste, until she married
again.
I shall never forget the excitement with which
Lady Dudley rushed in upon me one day to decide
upon a gown for her engagement supper party.
"Do tell me what I shall wear to-night," she
pleaded,
The solution was a simple mousseline, with a ba-
tiste sash of orange. She was very dark, with a
glorious figure, and she was an accomplished musi-
cian and linguist. Still, people were surprised that
she should have made such a grand match with
Lord Dudley, and there was a great deal of feeling
of jealousy and envy.
Lillian, Countess of Cromartie, the mother of
Lady Stuart Richardson, who made such a sensa-
tion in America in her barefoot dancing, was one
of the most charming, delightful women whom I
took the greatest delight in dressing. Neither
Lady Stuart Richardson, her daughter, nor the
younger Lady Cromartie, who married Major
Blount, could ever hold a candle to their beautiful
mother, Lillian, Countess of Cromartie. Even
now, though her hair is perfectly white, she retains
her fascinating dimples, and that wonderful skin
of marble purity and whiteness. I should regard
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
her to-day as a singularly beautiful and attractive
woman, with charming manners that have made
her admired and adored everywhere. She was the
daughter of the Lord of the Isle (MacDonald), a
very old and historical family. She had a special
photograph taken for me in one of my gowns, in
appreciation of my talent.
Another lovely creature was the Countess of
Faversham, the mother of that trio of famous beau-
ties, the late Duchess of Leinster, Lady Howard
Vincent, and Lady Marie Duncombe.
She had a personality that was very much above
the average of English beauty. At a very early
age her hair turned snow white, which gave her a
proud and distant demeanour. Her natural re-
serve prevented many people in a measure from
appreciating her, but my personal intercourse with
her was always adorable. I made a court gown for
her in a new shade at that time, known as chaudron
velvet, almost copper-colour. It was trimmed with
priceless lace, and the mantle that hung from both
shoulders was of deep bronze velvet fastened with
two huge rubies. She presented a very sensational
appearance at Court, and King Edward compli-
mented her most impressively. She sleeps now
with other famous beauties who have passed away,
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BRIDES AND WEDDING GOWNS
with her late husband, but there are many Dukes
and Princes who have survived her, who are still
singing her praises.
Those lovely English women were supreme, and
one looks in vain to-day for such elegance and
beauty. Those English women were famous for
perfect poise.
Miss Agnes Keyser, known now as Sister Agnes,
was always admired for her sylphlike figure. She
used to be one of the most beautifully gowned
women in London. Since the outbreak of the war
she has spent her wealth lavishly in a good cause.
To see her to-day in the simple but extremely be-
coming garb of a Sister of the Red Cross, one can-
not help remembering how brilliantly she adorned
the gay world of London. She has received nu-
merous decorations, and she was among those celeb-
rities who had entree to King Edward's corona-
tion. Her house in Grosvenor Gardens has been
converted into a hospital for wounded soldiers.
Not far from me in Wilton Crescent, lived Mrs.
G. K., who was devotedly admired by His Majesty
King Edward VII. She was intellectual and fas-
cinating long before she became celebrated at
Court. After the birth of her first baby she sent
to me for some tea gowns.
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
"Not too expensive, and as pretty as possible,"
was her message. I sent her several which pleased
her, and in later years, when she did not need to
economise so much, I had the pleasure of making
her some very elaborate and beautiful costumes.
She was a very spirituelle type, and of such bril-
liant wit that while it brought her the adoration of
her friends it made many enemies for her. Her
entertainments in her mansion in Grosvenor Place
were thronged with smart and important people,
who came to see and to be seen. It was of Mrs.
George Keppel that the story was told of a bit of
repartee aimed at her by a burglar.
It is claimed that she discovered a burglar in her
bedroom one night.
"What are you doing under my bed?" she asked
the burglar.
"I am looking for a sovereign," replied the bur-
glar.
There are so many little anecdotes that one is
tempted to spice this reminiscence food with, that
might be as salt to the palate. I hope I may be
forgiven for occasionally flavouring my story with
them. One is naturally interested in anything that
may bring us closer to those charming and beau-
tiful women, who always improve upon acquain-
—154—
BRIDES AND WEDDING GOWNS
tance. But I must heed the advice of Lady Teazle
in "School for Scandal," who, when she left the
room, said:
"Ladies, I go, but I leave my character with
you."
—155—
CHAPTER VII
A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR
The history of the great beauty and power over
His Royal Highness of the beautiful Countess of
W has been more or less inaccurately told, and,
I may add, with more or less distortions. Among
other women during the period of her reign, I
knew her very well, and I am not among those who
share the opinion that she was entirely cold blooded
and vain in her devotion to His Majesty. She was
herself an aristocrat, a woman of fine blood and
feeling. Her father was an English officer, her
mother of the English nobility. She had only one
sister, not quite so distinguished, perhaps, as her-
self, but a woman who by marriage and her own
right enjoyed a good deal of social prominence in
London. Their father, who was one of the richest
land owners in England, almost a triple million-
aire, left them a large fortune, which they spent
royally. The countess was extremely beautiful.
As a young girl her complexion and her hair were
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A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR
faultless. She had a perfectly divine figure, a most
charming disposition, and was unusually clever and
witty. Her husband, a peer in the realm and an
officer of the Life Guards, was a very handsome
man, of the dark type, and they made an ideal cou-
ple. Her son is now at the front. He too is mar-
ried. Quite early in her career this beautiful wo-
man was christened among her friends, "The Dar-
ling of the Gods." This is not so many years ago
but perhaps it seems to be so because so many per-
sonalities and events have blurred the memories.
The countess to-day is a very strikingly handsome
woman, and has fully sustained the dignity of her
past romance. I call it romance because I sin-
cerely believe that it was. Aside from my own
opinion, there is much reason for confirming it in
the fact that Queen Victoria, the Duchess of Teck,
in fact all the blood-ties of royalty, did their best
to justify the affair on the grounds of unalloyed
friendship. Queen Victoria received her very gra-
ciously at court, even when society at large did not
treat her quite correctly. The Duchess of Teck
said to me once, in reference to the amour of the
beautiful countess and the late king, "There is
nothing in all this scandal. He likes her very
much, as he does many others, — and that is all."
—157—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
As a matter of fact it is time that the truth about
this romance be published. The fact is that the
countess was very deeply attached to her sovereign,
and he very deeply reciprocated her feeling. She
became his constant companion, entirely by mutual
desire, and wherever he went the countess would
be asked also. There was a certain regardlessness
about their constant companionship, and of course
it so happened (as it always does happen among
followers of royalty) that the society of the court
pursued them with all the zest and curiosity of a
pack of hounds on the hunt for prey. A romance
between a king and a beautiful countess was con-
sidered big game, and in the midst of the gaieties
in which they shared, they managed to watch, to
draw conclusions, to bestow their criticism upon
the two who were most concerned. The scandal,
I believe, was largely created by those who make a
specialty of it, although there were plenty of rea-
sons for romantic gossip. Neither His Royal
Highness nor the Countess seemed to pay the
slightest attention to criticism which must have
reached her if it did not influence him. We can
take into account, with absolute assurance, the fact
that they were intellectually companionable. Their
social tastes were the same, their likes and dislikes
—158—
A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR
among people, places, and amusement were very
similar. His Royal Highness was particularly
fond of music, and there was a great deal of it at
court. All through his life one of the Prince's
chief pleasures was music. The countess really
was a great musician, and this I think was a bond
of sympathy and understanding between them.
Her beauty was really so startling and so perfect
that there were innumerable portraits in oil made
of her by famous painters, and there were also
many rude drawings and caricatures made for the
benefit of her friends. These caricatures were not
always of a character to inspire good taste, — but
these artists did not attempt to immortalise her
beauty in them, they were probably willing to leave
that for others. One may cavil at the redundancy
of treatment, at the flamboyant style in which some
of these portraits were made, and one could smile
at the weaker and puerile adulations suggested
when the countess was painted in the form of some
classic and symbolic figure, as a goddess perhaps.
There was, of course, every excuse for these exag-
gerations because of the splendid opulence both of
form and colour which she unassailably presented.
She was a luxurious beauty, with a fine taste in
art. Her sumptuous castle was filled with ex-
—159—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
quisite marble statuary. Her parties in the coun-
try were glorious. Her gardens were veritable
retreats for Cupid, filled with grottoes, with yew
trees, trimmed in all sorts of grotesque figures. A
charming, restful spot. In her beautiful castle
was a miniature theatre in case the peace of heaven
which surrounded these beautiful gardens and the
distant landscape should become tiresome to the
guests. Usually, there was a delicious stillness in
the ah*, broken alone by the songbirds in the shrub-
bery, or the music of the fountains in the distance.
The castle itself became a show place, and people
flocked to see it, especially when upon great occa-
sion the grounds were gloriously illuminated. The
people themselves, as royalty described them some-
times, the common people, paid the beautiful coun-
tess great homage. In fact, the ladies of the court,
of her own age, and those of a more delightful old
age, assumed a discreet ignorance of her many
amours. The conversation about her was always
associated with intellectual and literary qualities.
The countess herself was a woman of many gifts.
Her earlier years were passed in a married life
that was unassailable, peaceful, cultivated. She was
an out-door woman, a splendid horsewoman, and
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A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR
she loved dogs. She was rather imperious, in fact
insolent, sometimes, and intolerant.
Escoffier, the famous chef, who cooked so many
remarkable dishes for the royal palace, was some-
thing of a philosopher. No doubt he saw a good
deal of the real romance, for it was the custom of
the king to go with the countess into the kitchen,
to be tempted there by some mysterious invention
of Escoffier's. It was on one of these occasions
that Escoffier is credited with saying to His Maj-
esty something that sounds cynical:
"God no doubt must have repented 01 haviftg
made man, but he could never have done so for hav-
ing made woman," he said. I am told that the re-
lations between these two wonderful world figures,
the countess and the king, were really profoundly
idealistic. His Majesty called the countess, "My
heart," and the countess, in her most intimate mood
towards the king, called him "My soul." They
would take long walks together in the grounds of
the castle, and at the end of the walk they would
disappear into the kitchen, where Escoffier would
give them extraordinary refreshment. Of course,
the prince was delighted, entertained, and full of
admiration for this beautiful woman. These were
the days when she was in high favour. He was so
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
completely flattered that he ignored her little short-
comings, and listened sometimes to the amusing
stories concerning gossip of the court, which he
could tell better than anyone else. The people
were talking a great deal at this time about His
Royal Highness and the countess, and a good deal
of this criticism must have disturbed her, for it af-
fected the future of her son and her daughter.
Still, to a certain extent, fearful of some outside in-
fluence that should bear down upon her and disturb
her royal romance, she realised that she could not
expect a moral inspiration from the illicit love af-
fair with the king. Besides, she was so fond of
admiration and of power, she was so dominant, and
followed always the precepts of convention only in
a spirit of defiance, that it was only in after years
she realised perhaps that it would have been better
had she chosen to be more moderate. Her keen
intuition served her well in scattering the possible
rivals of her romance as they came along. It was
with reluctance she assumed this position in the bat-
tle of sentiment against other women. The misery
of thought which the end of this romance brought
to her is something that the world at large has not
given her credit for. She was only defeated in
her romance because owing to her rank and posi-
—162—
A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR
tion she wished to avoid public scandal. An aris-
tocratic woman, she was also a loving woman, and
because she was an aristocrat she dared not fret at
the change which came over her romance, and she
steeled herself against the disaster of time and
years. There was not a more popular man in
England than the Prince of Wales. He was kind-
hearted to a fault, and in this weakness of virtue,
his liaison with the countess became no longer so
satisfactory. I am afraid His Royal Highness
was a true butterfly of fashion.
There is perhaps no better proof of the sincerity
and depth of feeling which the countess had for His
Royal Highness, than the following anecdote, be-
cause it confirms the hurt which a woman feels
when the man she loves fails in respect to her. It
is recorded that His Royal Highness entered the
room where she was, unannounced, and rather has-
tily.
"What on earth is the matter, sir, you frightened
me," the countess said.
"I cannot be so particular," said the prince peev-
ishly, and his brusque manner and conduct startled
her. His manner was definite but distinctly with-
out sentiment. He said to her something like this :
"You and I have always been great chums, and
—163—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
you have been very good to me, thoroughly reliable,
as sincere as any man friend could have been."
This was not the manner of love, and the coun-
tess, regarding it as a humorous mood, attempted
to laugh it off.
"Why all these compliments, there must be an-
other motive." She became restless, surmising
what was to come. His Royal Highness rang for
tea, — not a powerful restorative, but an excuse for
boredom. Then, with a winning smile, he lighted
a cigarette and began a course of conversation in
which he had no doubt become expert through
many previous experiences of the same sort. The
countess displayed the disaster to her feelings
which this situation created, and she also realised
that her display of feeling was exasperating to His
Royal Highness. It dawned upon her that sooner
or later some great scandal would add to the bit-
terness of her disappointment, which he made clear
to her. His Royal Highness left, and to a friend
the countess described the shuddering loneliness
which overcame her as she saw the beginning of the
end. The crisis came soon. The countess started
violent flirtations, knowing well that a famous ac-
tress had supplanted her. To His Royal High-
ness the incident was only one of many drawing
—164—
A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR
room intrigues, and served to give a little zest to
his existence. Perhaps he may, or he may not have
discerned the sincerity of her passion and her love
for him, but he was coldly though charmingly ir-
responsive. I am sure that the countess thought
in the prince she had met her fate, and in accepting
the end of this romance, she expressed a gratitude
for knowing that it had not been true before it was
too late. Beautiful and idealistic as the motive of
a woman in love may be, the failure of them always
brings an ugly end. So the beautiful countess be-
came the target of outrageous slander and unspar-
ing scandal. Even after the separation had been
generally known and accepted, even though mis-
representation and calumny had somewhat blurred
the true memory, I believe that love such as these
two felt was really a most uncommon devotion.
Because of its truth and beauty, it created great
jealousies, many misunderstandings among the
stupid public, and the countess was obliged to suf-
fer the revenge of the world against the woman
who had been happy in spite of herself. Most of
the stories were false, most of them were cruel lies,
but how could they be denied? The countess did
not see fit to give proof of these calumnies, nor
would have deigned to do so.
—165—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
I recall the many times it was my pleasure to see
the beautiful countess in recent years, and she gave
me the impression that she harboured no ill-will.
She was perhaps cognisant of the fact that His
Royal Highness, to say the least, had piqued her.
She was also conscious that the field over which she
had reigned with such personal pleasure and glory
was now open to all comers. She retired most
graciously, most gracefully. With fine diplomacy
she poured oil on the troubled waters of her ro-
mance, but she was continually looking out for an
occasion to revenge herself upon the woman who
had supplanted her. The latter's only crime was
to do exactly what His Royal Highness desired
above all things, which the beautiful countess her-
self had so generously permitted. Then too, the
countess really had no reason to challenge her
rival's affection for the prince on grounds that she
had deserted another man for him. The spirit of
revenge, however, expressed itself violently one
day in the hunting field adjoining the magnificent
castle. Both the countess and her rival were in the
party. It was a glorious autumnal morning, the
air was crisp with that invigorating atmosphere.
The countess was riding leisurely out of her
grounds to the meet, when in the distance she saw
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A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR
His Royal Highness talking and laughing, and
especially attentive to his new love. For some time
he had been bestowing his attention upon two peer-
esses but he had transferred them recently to the
little marchioness who reciprocated his sentiment
most graciously. It was this charming little court
beauty whom the countess saw from a distance.
She urged her horse furiously forward, and rode
pellmell upon the marchioness. The horses clashed
and the riding whips flung in the air just as the
lances of old did their havoc among the warriors
of England. His Royal Highness rushed between
them, and after much difficulty succeeded in sep-
arating the ladies. The countess in a measure was
defeated and the little marchioness had the field
to herself. Some time later the marchioness lost
her foot through an accident in a motor in Paris.
I believe that this accident has not deprived her of
her charm or her beauty. She still rides superbly,
and was most happy and contented when I last
saw her. The scar across her face which the coun-
tess' riding whip inflicted soon healed, but the scar
in the heart of the countess still prevails, I fear.
This episode considerably chastened the gossips, to
say nothing of the spirit of the countess. But the
marchioness also became extremely careful, for
—167—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
the countess had made it clear that she would never
forgive her rival's temerity.
The countess will remain in the memory of those
who saw her from a distance, and of those who
knew her well, as one of the most lovable creatures
among the beautiful women of the Court of St.
James. Of course, the exquisite laces and frou-
frous which it was my privilege to create for the
countess were of such an alluring character that
they would have assured the surrender of any man,
beggar or king. She affected clinging, filmy
nothings of great price, and her charms were
greatly enhanced by the least possible artifice of
the dressmaker. She moved with such wonderful
grace that her presence was always a sensation.
The footprints of great men who pursued the
countess will probably never be entirely obliterated,
although the winds of time have scattered them a
little. She had a wild and vivid experience with
great men who were stern but weak. She scalped
most of them with supreme art. Who can tell
what cards a woman plays, since she rarely plays
them openly. The king of hearts may often be
well hidden, or he may be the joker, or the knave;
if the game was worth the candle, it does not mat-
ter. One thing I have observed that women of the
—168—
A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR
aristocracy who become involved in secret romance,
hold their own better than any other class of
women. The "fallen" aristocrat never steps from
her pedestal of aristocracy, she never tumbles with
broken bones, only with a few shattered illusions,
which have not affected her self-respect.
Such a woman was the countess, whose sensa-
tional romance with the Prince of Wales made the
world of gossip swing a little faster, especially the
society world of London and of England.
Did they count the consequences, I wonder, or
care about them?
I very much doubt it. Certainly His Royal
Highness did not suffer very greatly, for his tastes
had the surprising indifference of variety. In his
romantic episodes one could easily take him for
Henry IV or Louis XIV. None of the women of
the Court of St. James, whom I gowned, frequently
for the special delight of His Royal Highness, were
comparable for inspiration to the beautiful coun-
tess. It was like receiving an order to fill the heart
as well as the eye of the king, to prepare the beauti-
ful countess in a toilette he would admire. One
gown I remember in particular because His Royal
Highness pronounced it as the prettiest bit of
daintiness the countess ever wore. It was the most
—169—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
superb Duchess satin of grey pearl with a corsage
a la Louis XV in the palest rose colour miroir vel-
vet. Square collar of batiste with an edging of
point de Flanders, and the corsage was held with
buttons of coral and diamonds. The ceinture was
of black moire scniple. With this Her Ladyship
wore a large picture Leghorn hat trimmed with a
garland of (Baroness de Rothschild) roses, grey
suede shoes with diamond buckles a la Cromwell,
a parasol entirely made of rose leaves, with a han-
dle of corals, and her monogram in diamonds on
the stick. Her mantelet was indeed wonderful, it
was entirely of grey pearl chiffon ninon, the entire
lining being rose leaves which fluttered in the wind
and when walking gave the most wonderful effect.
She certainly looked superb. I copied it for an-
other grande dame of the Court in white and lilac.
Of course, the wearer of this second edition was
less interesting but more important, if such a thing
could be possible.
A tea gown which I made for the Countess was
perhaps the most beautiful thing I ever put forth
from my house. It was a copy adopted from
Queen Victoria's coronation toilette. The under-
garment Avas in the finest white crepe de chine with
—170—
A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR
an overmantle of the finest Burano lace with em-
broideries of topaz, opals and chains of pearls, with
a clasp, which held the mantle on the breast, of
emeralds, turquoise, rubies and uncut sapphires.
-171
CHAPTER VIII
AUTHORS AND ACTORS OF KING EDWARD'S
REIGN
Musical comedy has been the nursery of many
peerages, the cradle of many aristocratic wives who
were chosen from the chorus. The ballet and the
refined burlesque were the theatrical food upon
which the aristocracy of England flourished.
There are still many who remember those stars
of the earlier days of the Prince of Wales. There
were Nellie Farren, Lydia Thompson, Violet Cam-
eron, Florence St. John, Lettv Lind. To these
meteors of this early period of the theatre within
my recollection, were applied the slang compli-
ments of the period. These ladies were, for in-
stance, "Tophole," they were "Swishy." It was
one of the joys of life to hear them sing and dance
such little ditties as:
"I am a swell,
You can tell,
And behave, of course, as such,
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AUTHORS AND ACTORS
Close cut hair,
Elbows square,
With my toothpick and my crutch."
It was after the theatre that those delightful lit-
tle supper parties were held at Cremorne Garden,
or at the Argyle Rooms. At these parties the
Prince of Wales would attend incognito.
Later, when he was king, and the formalities of
his rank had to be fulfilled, his aide-de-camp would
wire or telephone to the box office, and the royal
box would be reserved for him. Usually it was
decorated with a bouquet of flowers, so that the
public always knew at once that the performance
would be graced by the king and queen, or the
royalty. At Covent Garden, where grand opera
was given, there was always a royal box exclusively
reserved, and the omnibus box, as it was called,
where His Majesty invited all his intimate friends
to join him or call upon him between the acts. The
king was always most punctilious to arrive at the
beginning, and to remain till the end. But the
opera had always been the centre of social glory
and splendour, whether in London or in New
York.
I am convinced that modern beauty will never
compare favourably with those regal ancestors of
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
hers, who passed in and out of my salon in the
House of Frederic. It is my regret, that one no
longer encounters those convincing beauties of ele-
gance and charm of the last century, who remain so
vividly in my mind.
I observe to-day that the rage for beauty, vul-
garly expressed, is "flapper" type. They at
least do not require much study to gown
them. The immature and inchoate baby type is
far from convincing, and requires little exertion
from an artist in dress. In America the "flapper"
type has perhaps been more fully recognised than
in Europe. American taste in dress seems to pan-
der to all the senses, keeping in view the fads and
fancies of the hour, leaving what might be called
the real artistic business of dress to take care of
itself. Perhaps the theatres have something to do
with this deterioration of good taste and beauty.
Years ago, even chorus girls in such plays as the
famous Gaiety Theatre in London provided, were
aristocratic in appearance. Many of them mar-
ried into the British aristocracy, but the "flapper"
type was not among them.
I remember well in the early eighties, when the
artists of the Comedie Francaise first came to Lon-
don, when Moliere came to salute Shakespeare.
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AUTHORS AND ACTORS
What a bouquet of glorious women!
The divine Sarah, willowy and slender, with her
golden voice, appeared in "Phedre," wearing those
pure white robes draped in classical folds. She
impressed herself upon my mind as a classical fig-
ure. I never could or would admit that she looked
as well in modern garments as in her gorgeous
Greek or Roman vestments. Her whole personal-
ity seemed to change with modern dress; that sub-
tle, glorious, sphinx-like movement, seemed ham-
pered in up-to-date lines.
The divine Sarah, though the greatest actress
in the world, has her weaknesses and her shadows.
She is absolutely one of the most extravagant and
most marvellous creatures of the century. Noth-
ing daunted her; lions and tigers were her com-
panions, for years she travelled with her coffin.
These may be fictitious facts, but they establish her
originality and capability. She designed most of
her gowns herself. They were scrupulously car-
ried out under her direction. The embroideries,
for instance, of her darling "Fedora" were really
great works of art. I saw them in the making at
a famous embroidery house in Paris, where I had
gone to choose some designs. The "Fedora"
gowns were exquisite, the jewels alone used in them
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
being valued at 20,000 francs. One gown was de-
signed exactly upon the principle of a Cardinal's
vestment. In private life, Sarah is as emotional
as she is on the stage. She adores her son, whose
father, it is said, is a Prince. Every one knows how
intensely patriotic the great actress is, and when
the Kaiser finally succeeded in persuading her to
come to Berlin, she could not restrain her feelings.
"Of course," she said, "great minds must meet
sooner or later."
How well these great minds each have played
their part, how fantastically they are the creatures
of wonder of the age! Both have stirred the hemi-
sphere, one upon the stage in theatrical drama, and
one upon the world's stage in a stupendous drama
in history. Who will receive the greatest applause
of humanity at large when these two world figures
make their final bow?
You must forgive me the little cynicisms that will
creep into my narrative, in spite of all I can do to
restrain criticism. Perhaps I dwell too much upon
personality, expect too much of it, but I speak from
experience and not surmise.
The animal charm of Croizette, one of the beau-
ties of the Comedie Francaise, excited an extrava-
gance in dress that I deplored. Her physique, en-
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AUTHORS AND ACTORS
hancing as it did her toilettes, created extravagant
admiration of her among a class of women who
dwell upon dress and its accessories as a sort of
sacrament of beauty, a religion. Croizette mar-
ried the rich banker, Monsieur Jules Stern, which
was a desirable apotheosis to her brilliant life, but
she was always too extravagant. All women are
not in position to give full swing to their extrava-
gance, and therefore Croizette was a visible tempta-
tion to them. There are many women for whom
simple garments are more refined than the spec-
tacular clothes, and yet not less costly. A piece of
point de Flanders or point de Venise, an old
world batiste used as a fichu, with a taupe crepe de
chine gown, will often run to three figures.
Most of these women of the Comedie Francaise
were really great artists, however, and one cannot
speak of them with anything but a sense of grati-
tude for their devotion to their great work.
There was Madame Baretta, charming Baretta,
the tragic death of whose only son practically ended
her career. She withdrew from the world after
this, and lived only a few years longer, to the sor-
row of those who adored her.
As my establishment was in London, it was my
privilege, naturally, to gown many of the cele-
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
brated English actresses of to-day and yesterday.
Lady George Alexander, wife of Sir George
Alexander, of the St. James Theatre, London, was
a delight to a dressmaker, because she had the
greatest talent for dress herself. When she was
still Mrs. George Alexander, and together we were
choosing the colour schemes and styles for a new
production, she always had abnormally bright ideas
of her own, which happily enough we were able to
carry out to perfection. She always dressed ex-
quisitely; it was inherited from her French blood,
and her influence dominated the good clothes of the
numerous plays that were so successfully produced
at the St. James Theatre.
Lady Alexander would spend days in my estab-
lishment, rummaging over the most lovely mate-
rials, laces, embroideries, embroidered batistes and
trimmings. These were very hilarious occasions
for us both, and our laughter very often disturbed
one or another of the grand ladies waiting in my
reception room, and who were formally and pa-
tiently awaiting their turns to be attended to.
Miss Marion Terry, I recall also as one of my
very charming customers, Miss Eva Moore, Miss
Granville, and Miss Julie Opp, who were all mem-
bers of the company at the St. James Theatre.
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AUTHORS AND ACTORS
Sir George Alexander came over himself one day
to see me, and paid a very graceful compliment
when he said that he understood why Her Ladyship
spent so much time with me.
It was in the early eighties that Lady Beerbohm
Tree, then Mrs. Tree, first came to me. She was
then not quite so distinguished in her style and
mode as she is to-day, but I remember she liked my
gowns. To-day her great friends, the Duchess of
Rutland and Lady Marjorie Manners, have
adopted styles of individual gowning, which have
failed to convince the modern woman, however, who
is apt to consider them eccentric.
The success of the gowns I made for the produc-
tion of Oscar Wilde's play, "Lady Windermere's
Fan," in London, brought about an overwhelming
business for me in the theatrical world. This was
a production made at the Haymarket Theatre by
Sir Beerbohm Tree. Lady Tree was one of those
esthetic looking women, with a very definite indi-
viduality. Neither of her daughters resemble her
in the least. Her eldest daughter, I understand,
has returned to the stage, notwithstanding the fact
that she married well, and for love.
Miss Fay Davis and Miss Granville, of St.
James Theatre, were among the beauties of dis-
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
tinctly English style. Miss Davis, who was very
distingue looking, became a very great favourite in
London, acting many years for St. George Alex-
ander. The gowns I created for her she wore with
a great deal of distinction. I can still see her in a
white tulle ball gown, very full, with fringes
of iridescent pearls showered like dewdrops. Miss
Granville made a sensation in a princess robe
of orange velvet mousseline embroidered with dia-
monds. I subsequently made a copy of this gown,
which I designed for Miss Granville, for Her
Majesty the Queen of England, in blue Sevres and
variegated blue stones.
Pretty little Eva Moore, who married Henry
Esmond, the playwright (perhaps because she
knew that he would write such charming plays for
her), was a spoiled child of the English theatre-
going public, as were her sisters. She was very
dainty and very pretty. I remember trying on a
little grass-green linen gown I had made for her,
to be worn in her husband's play, "The Wilder-
ness."
"They will surely make a meal of me," she said
laughingly.
"Yes," I said, "if you dare to go too near the
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AUTHORS AND ACTORS
footlights they might take you for a delicious cab-
bage in cream."
I believe that Eva Moore in a little linen lawn
tennis gown which she so well knew how to wear,
really made me celebrated.
I shall always feel that I contributed something
to the success of a great prima donna, Madame Al-
bani, at Covent Garden, in that brilliant first per-
formance of Verdi's "Othello" in which she ap-
peared with the athletic tenor, Tamagno. Her
toilettes were gorgeous, the embroideries alone
costing over two hundred guineas. The tea gown
of pure lace du Burano, worn when the Moor
comes to her couch in jealousy to slay the fair Des-
demona, was very beautiful. Tamagno apologised
to me afterwards for crushing it.
"It was really too lovely to smother her in it,"
he said. "I hesitated, for her lines were so exqui-
site. I hated to be so treacherous, but it had to be
done, though I treated your work very gently."
Even a Moor of Venice can be chastened by such
a beautiful dress.
Two other great artists in the theatrical world
in London, whom I remember so well, were Ellen
Terry and Lady Bancroft. Many of us can re-
member what a really versatile, clever, charming
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
actress Lady Bancroft (Marie Wilton) was.
When she appeared in "Diplomacy," London
raved about her. The Prince of Wales always at-
tended the opening of the Bancrofts. She was not
exactly pretty, but very magnetic. It was Lady
Bancroft and her husband, Sir Squire Bancroft,
who made the Haymarket Theatre famous.
She was notoriously difficult to please, but some-
how or other I always scored with her. She was
fond of me, and only last year I received a letter
from her country seat near Folkestone. I remem-
ber once a session with her which lasted five long
hours, during which we discussed a certain colour
scheme. At the end of it we drove to the theatre,
and saw how the furniture and the hangings of the
scenes would harmonise with the proposed gown.
Lady Bancroft being rather short in stature, it was
often difficult to carry out satisfactorily her own
plans for her toilettes. However, she didn't mind
the trouble she unconsciously caused. When the
gown was completed, she would say quite pleas-
antly :
"If you don't mind, dear, we will change it a
little."
Changing it a little meant a complete recon-
struction of the gown, and yards of silk, velvet, lace
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AUTHORS AND ACTORS
and embroidery went the way of all that is mortal.
Yet, one did please her after all, if one didn't op-
pose her too much.
The Bancrofts' home in Berkeley Square, Lon-
don, was rather curious. Their whole staircase
was lined with caricatures of all the celebrities of
their long reign in London. Du Maurier, Punch's
great artist, is responsible for most of them. Sir
Squire Bancroft, a tall figure with snow-white hair,
with his inevitable monocle in his eye, is still a strik-
ing personality in London. One of their sons died
in China, having married a daughter of the famous
Kembles. I believe the marriage was not a happy
one, for they were divorced.
Lady Bancroft is a devout Catholic, most char-
itable, and has done a great deal for the cause of
the Allies. She still holds her own, is still satirical,
witty and spirituelle. Her fame has not vanished,
although she retired from the stage some years ago.
She still often plays for charity.
When the automobile was not so much in evi-
dence, you could meet the Bancrofts, like Darby
and Joan, driving in their victoria, drawn by two
nice Irish cobs. England has never been able to
replace Mrs. Bancroft. She had her own peculiar
style, convincingly serious, screamingly funny, and
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
versatile. Even Queen Victoria, I believe, sent for
them to give private performances at Balmoral,
and King Edward was one of the earliest admirers
of Her Ladyship, remaining a very true and
staunch friend always. The Prince of Wales
Theatre was where Lady Bancroft became famous,
before leasing the Haymarket Theatre.
Ellen Terry, the paragon of English tragedy,
the sweet Juliet of Irving's Romeo, stirred Lon-
don, and for that matter America, for years. We
are contemporaries, and we have met on and off
the stage for many years. Her sliding movement
when she greets you, her alluring, bewitching smile,
have not really altered. She has been, I believe, a
happy woman, and all the homage and all the
adoration she has received, never spoiled her. Her
daughter and her son are both great artists, classic
designers, having staged many pieces of the Greek
and Roman cult. Ellen Terry comes of a wonder-
ful family, for among them are many of the shin-
ing lights of the English stage. She herself was
perhaps the most graceful figure on any stage.
Her garments were always part of her, her flow-
ing robes (for she never wore a corset), her glid-
ing movements, sylph-like in their grace, always
gave me the impression that when she walked she
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AUTHORS AND ACTORS
never touched the earth. She moved so stealthily,
so quickly, and yet with such perfect modulation.
Creating gowns for Ellen Terry was always an
easy matter for me. She would come to my studio,
stretch out on the couch, and say to me :
"Now, dear, what shall I wear?"
"Well, it is difficult to say, will you please stand
up until we try some effect?" I would say.
"No, dearie, just hang some material around, so
that I can look at it, and when I see something that
strikes my imagination I will get up."
Often she would take the scissors out of the fit-
ter's hands.
"Let me show you," she would say, and that
would end it.
She was angelically sweet, never out of temper,
erratic in the extreme, but a charming woman.
Whatever I created for her was always a joy to
me, for I knew I was garbing an artist, a superb
woman.
Those piquant little stories of her early life may
have some truth in them or may not. We are all
well aware that the greater our success, the greater
the number of our enemies. I presume that is her
case. I know that the great grief of her life came
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
when Sir Henry Irving and she severed a life-long
friendship.
I shall always maintain that it was Ellen Terry
who made Irving famous. It was she who called
forth the divine fire in him, which was certainly dor-
mant until she fanned the flickering flame into a
bright and shining light. For doing this, it seems
to me ingratitude was her fate, as it is with many
others. The fickleness and vagaries of fortune be-
set many of us, and Ellen Terry was no exception.
I love her very much, she is such a human, kind
creature, and I wish her well to the end of the chap-
ter.
One cannot leave this period of extraordinary
genius in the English theatre without referring to
Mr. and Mrs. Kendal, to Harry Montague, the
ideal of young hearts, Ada Lewis, Hugh Con-
way, and many others. Mrs. Kendal was always
spoken of in whispers, because one always feared
saying something that would shock her exquisite
sensibilities. She was rather a tall, majestic-look-
ing woman, when she was Madge Robertson. She
and her husband played together for so many years
that one never dreamed of separating them by
thought or word. Mrs. Kendal's favourite stage
trick was to turn her back to the audience, for in
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AUTHORS AND ACTORS
evening dress she had a very beautiful back. Mr.
Kendal, I believe, must have been a sort of Egyp-
tian sphinx inwardly, because he was never known
to express an opinion, or to speak to another wo-
man except his wife. He was very handsome, but
I am sure he never would have dared to suggest
appearing with any other actress, save his wife, for
it would have been the worse for him, so active
was the green-eyed monster in the heart of beauti-
ful Madge Kendal. There was never a word of
criticism concerning the purity and domestic per-
fection of their lives.
I believe that Madge Robertson really made an
actor of Mr. Kendal ; at any rate, he learned every-
thing he knew about acting from her. I have also
always thought that Ellen Terry, that supple, co-
bra-like woman, made Sir Henry Irving. She
adored him and always quoted him as her guiding
star. Perhaps he was, but I do not share her opin-
ion. In later years he devoted a good deal of time
to that little woman who wrote for Vanity Fair.
It was a decided decadence in good taste, she was
such a direct contradiction to the marvellous per-
sonality of the great tragedienne.
It took some little time before King Edward
showed any interest in the Alexanders at the St.
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
James Theatre, but he was finally induced to pa-
tronise it from time to time by Her Royal High-
ness the Duchess of Fife.
Of course, many of us to-day remember that
exquisite woman Ada Cavendish, who made such
a sensation in a version of Wilkie Collins' "The
New Magdalen." The Prince of Wales in his
younger days greatly admired her. She married
Captain Marshall, the playwright. People were
much more eager for the theatre in those days than
they are now; it was before the horrible advent of
those terrible moving pictures. I remember the
crowds that used to go to the Prince of Wales
Theatre in Oxford Street, to see those fine actors,
Rignold, Warner, Wilson Barrett, in those spec-
tacular melodramas once so dear to the British
heart. Then there was William Terriss, that hand-
some actor who was stabbed to death by a madman
at the stage door of the Adelphi Theatre one night
in London, where he had been making an enor-
mous success in an English melodrama called
"Harbour Lights." His pretty daughter, Ellaline
Terriss, who married Seymour Hicks, danced her-
self into favour with the king in a foolish little ditty
called "A Little Bit of String." She is still a
great favourite with the theatre public.
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AUTHORS AND ACTORS
I cannot fail to mention Fred Terry, Ellen
Terry's brother, and his charming wife, Julia Neil-
son. Her beauty was indeed ravishing. Then
there was Cyril Maude, who, with his clever wife,
pleased London with his smug smartness in com-
edy. Who can forget Oscar Asche and Lily
Brayton, his wife, in their magnificent production
of "Kismet." One could write a volume about
the English actors and actresses of my period in
London, but I have mentioned only those who re-
ceived royal favour.
A number of English actresses who married in
the peerage, and a number of peers' sons who went
on the stage, have perhaps been responsible for the
impression that King Edward regarded the the-
atre as part of the fashion of the court. This is
entirely erroneous, because although His Majesty
was always courteous, and personally rather fond
of the players, he never allowed an actress to be
presented at court. I doubt whether he approved
of the theatre as a profession, in spite of the fact
that several of the chorus girls of the Gaiety The-
atre married into the peerage. The Marchioness of
Headford, for instance, was formerly on the pro-
gram of the Gaiety Theatre as Rosie Booty. Lady
Victor Paget, the late Countess Clancarty, the
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Marchioness of Aylesbury, belonged to the chorus.
Then there was Lilly Elsie of "Merry Widow"
fame, who became Mrs. Ian Bullough, Miss Clif-
ford, who became The Honourable Bruce, and lost
her husband in the beginning of the war (he was
the son of Lord Aberdeen), and Lady Carrington,
now a widow, all belonged to the variety stage.
There were enormous possibilities for the beautiful
coryphees of the English stage, young girls of all
sorts and conditions. Some of them were from the
slums of the East End, and they gathered even
thousands in the transit of art. The stage favour-
ites of London always had the entree to many
smart sets, but I believe King Edward, who was
most fastidious, respecting etiquette, drew the line
very sharply between court life and the stage. Not-
withstanding his laxity in minor details respecting
the weaker sex, he was very strict in other details.
Among the social lions connected directly or in-
directly with the theatre, were the authors, famous
and infamous, of that day. I knew many of them
well. Particularly do I remember Ouida, that
woman of sublime imagination, who wrote "Strath-
more," "Moths," "Under Two Flags."
She was occupying a royal suite in the then very
famous and much frequented Langham Hotel in
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AUTHORS AND ACTORS
the Portland Place, one of the most beautiful
thoroughfares in London. Her mother was with
her and would never allow her to be disturbed on
any pretext while writing. Her favourite mode
of dressing was in yellow silk, quite decollete. From
her many admirers among the Crack Regiments she
chose as her beau ideal a handsome Life Guards-
man, a peer of the realm, after whom she moulded
most of her heroes. Her story-book women were
always bad, frivolous, even worse than that. I once
hinted to her, somewhat audaciously at the manner
in which she dealt with the weaker sex.
"My dear, let me tell you, there are no good
women excepting those who are made so by men,"
she said.
How ghastly, I thought, to be inured to such a
cynical opinion of one's sex. She wrote with won-
derful descriptive power, and her vivid conceptions
of human nature were very true to life, yet, poor
soul, she died heart-broken and poor, though her
star of life was once one of the most brilliant in
the horizon of her day. Her last years were the
winter of fiction.
In appearance, Ouida looked like a gypsy. She
was very dark, with deep-set eyes that had a pecul-
iar far-away look. She affected gowns of gypsy
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Romany style which suited her very well. She was
very antagonistic to the modern woman, and it was
part of her nature to never allow them to shine
when she was present. I believe, however, I was
very favourably looked upon by her. She adored
her two collies, Caesar and Minks, who were always
with her. She talked to them like human beings.
"My canine friends are real," she used to say,
"the others are chimera."
In a measure I believe she was right. In her
lap the little Pomeranian she claimed inspired her.
Her soul understood the language of these dogs
well. She was charitable and human in the ex-
treme, though grotesque at times in her toilettes.
Of the many literary celebrities I met, I shall
never forget the little talks we used to have with the
Poet Laureate, Lord Tennyson, whom we used to
meet at a little cafe in Regent Street, in London,
where the poet used to come to sip his cafe noir.
The usual attractions of youth were still with me
then, and being a poet perhaps, he was still sus-
ceptible.
"People are often so uncharitable," I said to him.
He paused a minute before answering me, and with
that ambiguous smile for which he was noted, he
finally said:
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AUTHORS AS I j ACTOB
.ike an oyster knife that hacks and
hews the will, but not the power to a
J on was rather tall, he wore his hair un-
.ally long, and the most predominant thing about
him was his intellectual, broad forehead. H
were rather la rg orows very prominent, he
had a very sympathetic manner, and he wa
tonally gallant. Frequently with my best
friend. my late husband," e would stroll to-
gether from the little cafe on our way home, listen-
ing to this genius, for that he was unmistakably. I
fail to see any resemblance to him in his son.
Mrs. Craigie 'Oliver Hobbs) wrote several
charming plays which delighted the entire royal
family. Especially charmed were they with her
play called "Some E and a Moral/'* I:
| lite a sensation, especially as the author
rery young, and, of cc nse, some surprise at
the cynical tone of the play. Her romance began
when she was only sixteen. A | ng in an ama-
ur performance, she met a young American who
had just come over, and immediately "became en-
gaged + o him. He was rery good-looking, and he
played the part of a Naval :':. er. She believed
that she was in love, married him, and her marr
life proved to be a failure. She divorced him. She
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
had a charming son, who was educated by his grand-
parents, and served his country at the front.
Pearl Morgan Richards, who became Mrs.
Craigie, was a wonderfully bright and witty woman.
She had a streak of perpetual sarcasm, and yet her
wit made you love her at once. She had beautiful
eyes, and a very lovely hand. She was a great
friend of Lord and Lady Curzon, and went to the
Durbar as their guest. That was the late Lady
Curzon, who was Miss Leiter of Chicago. They
were intimate and charming friends, and the cur-
tain of time has fallen on both of them.
—194^
CHAPTER IX
THE MODERN SPIRIT OF KING EDWARD'S RULE
At the close of Queen Victoria's reign, the rest-
lessness which Her Majesty's conservative policy
at court had so long restrained, began to take ac-
tive measure. The popularity of the Prince of
Wales, whose accession to the throne seemed to be
interminably deferred, had instilled a more modern
spirit among the aristocrats and the beautiful
women, of which there were so many in England at
this time. There were indications of this in such
gala events during the latter part of Queen Vic-
toria's reign, as the great ball at Warwick Castle,
given by the beautiful Countess of Warwick. She
was in high favour at that time with the Prince of
Wales, whose patronage of beauty was well known.
It was my privilege to make most of the gowns,
the lingerie, even the robes de nuit of this famous
court beauty. She was the most ravishing English
beauty of her time, and is still a vision of loveliness
to-day.
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
It was at this famous ball at Warwick Castle,
that the Countess of Warwick wore an entirely new
suggestion for a ball dress. I think I was the first
to introduce the fashion, which has since been widely
copied. It was the blending of fur with tulle. The
gown worn by the Countess of Warwick was a
rose tulle ball gown, with narrow sable borders.
Shall I ever forget that ball !
The immense ball room in that historical old Cas-
tle Warwick was filled with the most glorious ex-
otic flowers. Palms, wonderful bushes of clematis,
tea roses, violets, white lilacs, all intermingled with
lilies-of-the-valley. The general effect was one of
a modern saturnalia. The parterre floor shone like
a looking-glass. It was smooth as polished metal.
Huge subdued rose tinted lights gave a dull soft
hue to everything. Armies of footmen in their gor-
geous livery of the earl's household made one
think almost of the great ball that preceded Water-
loo. All the leading County families and their
daughters were present, and His Royal Highness,
the Prince of Wales, opened the ball with the
Countess, who was an ideal woman for an ideal ball
gown. The glorious manteau of velour miroire
doublee in chinchilla, which she wore, was the fin-
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KING EDWARD'S RULE
ishing touch that startled everybody. The manteau
was finished with a sable collar.
She ruled supreme upon the horizon of fashion
for a very long time, and I had the pleasure of mak-
ing for her superb liseuse and tea gowns of a daring
description. Her robes de nuit, in ninon rose, black,
and vert dfeau profusely trimmed with real Valen-
ciennes made her look like a Louise de Lavalliere.
She was a woman of such exquisite form.
The Countess of W. was one of my earliest, and
by far the most encouraging inspiration. It was
for her that I devised many daring effects. I recall
adapting Queen Victoria's coronation gown into a
picture tea gown for the Countess of W., of lace
ninon with pearl trimmings. Her Majesty Queen
Victoria would have been surprised to see how much
her coronation gown looked like a tea gown. Then
there was an Empire tea gown of blond lace. It is
a lace which is so transparent that if used on a light
tissue the effect is that of a blond chevelure. It is
mostly made in the Ardennes, and few people know
how to employ this beautiful lace to advantage. It
is as delicate as cobweb, with opalescent shades,
when draped over any material of suitable texture.
I have always been very successful in using it.
There was no end to the original effects that
—197—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
were possible for a woman of the physical splen-
dour of the Countess of W. I was very proud of
an opera cloak which I made for her, which at-
tracted wide attention at the time, and which I be-
lieve no other woman could have worn. It was a
regal wrap of fine white cloth, smothered with
coarse Guipure, disclosing Persian embroidery
and lined with rose and gold.
It was in such women as the Countess of W. that
the Prince of Wales confirmed his prediction of a
new and more brilliant fashion when he should be-
come king. I shall always feel that King Edward
VII was the arbiter of the brilliant styles which
he admired. I feel that he dictated to the English
women of fashion, for his taste was that of a grand
Seigneur. He was very original, and created about
him an atmosphere which inspired a startling qual-
ity. He always adapted himself to his surround-
ings. It didn't matter whether His Majesty was
at Ascot, or Derby, at a horse show, at the opening
of Parliament or at a salon. King Edward always
gave a personal tone to those about him. What he
said and what he did were quoted at professional
clubs. His bon mots were adopted everywhere, for
he was extremely witty, cynical at times, but full
of wonderful good nature- King Edward was
—198^
KING EDWARD'S RULE
really a very great diplomat ; his diplomacy was of
a quality that would have been an immense value
in temporising the conditions which brought about
the war.
With the accession of His Majesty, King Ed-
ward VII, and Queen Alexandra to the throne,
dress was no longer so conventional, it became more
free and easy. The King and Queen seemed to be,
as you would say over here, more up to date. To
be sure, the Court Drawing Rooms were still held
in the day time, but the balls, the concerts at Buck-
ingham Palace, were less formal and tiresome. The
usual list of people one met at these Court func-
tions was much changed. There were not so many
bores at the palace as there were during the regime
of Queen Victoria. Of course, there were those
who deplored the fact that society was becoming
flippant. A great many of us regarded this new
freedom in dress, in talk, as a great relief.
The first years of the reign of King Edward VII
were very brilliant socially. The whole atmosphere
of social conditions in London became charged with
the joviality and wit of the King himself. He was
a great admirer of beautiful women, and he en-
couraged their presence at the British court with
every possible sign of favour. In presence and per-
—199—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
sonality he was a real charmer, the ladies all adored
him. His intimates called him "Teddy." He was
the best groomed cavalier of his day, the Beau
Brummel of his century. Both the King and the
beautiful Queen Alexandra came into power with
the love and esteem of their millions of subjects.
They were as much adored by the man in the streets
as by the aristocracy, the dowagers, and the younger
generation of their reign. I always believed that
His Majesty was even more popular in Paris than
in London. It is generally conceded that the en-
tente cordiale was established by King Edward VII
so firmly, that no other power could disturb the al-
liance. King Edward still lives, we do not realise
that he is dead, so remarkable is the influence of
his spirit over the affairs of England. When peo-
ple speak of a delightful man, of a good King, they
remember Edward VII.
As Princess of Wales, and later as Queen Alex-
andra, this beautiful woman was always famous
for her exquisite taste in gowns. It was really an
inborn quality with her. Her Majesty has always
been considered the best dressed woman in England.
I say this, having some personal knowledge of how
the court beauties of her day envied her; envy is
such a frequent intruder upon the dressmaker's
—200—
KING EDWARD'S RULE
career. Thousands strive to copy Her Majesty's
gowns, her hats, her coiffure, but they were all just
spurious imitations. Even to-day, having reached
the years when one is less likely to be observed in
the matter of dress, Her Majesty remains the most
elegant of women, the most royal of all the Queens
of the last century.
My acquaintance with Queen Alexandra was of
many years. I assisted in the direction of her gowns
before she was Queen of England, and long after
that. The privileges that came to me as modiste to
royalty were not merely a formal obedience to royal
commands. A queen being measured for a gown, is
still a woman. The atmosphere of the queen's bed-
chamber, however, is something that is indescrib-
ably different.
It may be that one associated some mysterious
superiority to the personality of a queen, because
she is queen. At any rate I shall always recall my
visits to the bedroom of Queen Alexandra with the
same sentiment that any other woman would, who
enjoyed the same privilege.
The Queen's bed-chamber was a huge, square
bedroom, with a very high ceiling. It was a unique
apartment, for there was nothing modern about it.
Its huge four-poster bedstead was awe-inspiring,
—201—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
and the various old oak chests of a former period,
the couches, the chairs, were all of the early English
period.
A large crucifix hung over Her Majesty's bed,
and the real lace coverings upon which were woven
the royal escutcheon, were very beautiful and ele-
gant. Adjoining the bedroom was the queen's bou-
doir, a lovely nest, in which Her Majesty put aside
her crown, and presumably put on her slippers.
Beside her dressing table, upon which were the
usual toilet accessories, but of pure gold, stood a
mahogany case, with an open glass inlaid front. In-
side this case, all symmetrically arranged, were the
queen's personal jewels. Among them were the
most lovely parures of diamonds, pearls, rubies,
sapphires, onyx, in fact the entire galaxy of beau-
tiful stones and jewels so placed in the cabinet as
to be ready for wear, to match any gown.
The bedroom screen was a very unique bit of fur-
niture. It contained a multitude of photographs,
inserted in panels, of the young generation of all
the reigning families of Europe, and of all royalty.
These photographs were framed in white wooden
arabesque, which made them stand out beautifully.
If the political masters of Europe could have had
a glimpse at this wonderful album of photos in
—202—
KING EDWARD'S RULE
Queen Alexandra's boudoir, and realise, as they
would have done, how tender and how close the in-
ternational relations of Europe were, by actual bond
of social relationship, it is possible some of them
would want to hide behind that screen in view of
what is happening now, to hide themselves from the
political shame of the present war.
That Her Majesty might survey at her ease the
toilettes she was to wear, a huge gown-rack stood
beside the dressing-table, upon which various gowns
could be displayed, so that Her Majesty could com-
fortably choose the one she preferred to wear.
There was an atmosphere about the Queen's bou-
doir of quiet dignity, of perfect order, of peace of
mind. The windows of her boudoir looked out upon
the velvet lawn, the orderly footpaths of the palace
grounds, and huge oak trees cast their shadows
nestling at the windows of this exquisitely appointed
royal chamber. Of course, there were mementoes
of all sorts of things, little knick-knacks that were
probably personal souvenirs. Most prominently
displayed in the room, however, were large photo-
graphs of all the royal children of the queen, who
were then grown up. I recall one especially beau-
tiful photograph, taken of Her Majesty as a bride,
upon her entree into London; a speaking likeness
—203—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
of Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort ; a charm-
ing picture of the Duke of Clarence. And then
there was a host of relatives, beautifully framed and
too numerous to mention.
The most impressive recollection of the Queen's
bedroom to me was that huge crucifix which hung
immediately over Her Majesty's pillow. It indi-
cated the glorious or melancholy fact that she was
queen "By the Grace of God." Many wonder-
fully happy, and many tearful nights, Her Majesty
must have passed in the shadow of this crucifix.
Queen Alexandra, like most of her royal ances-
try, was a strict church-goer. Her influence upon
her own children in this respect was very great. I
remember when Canon Duckworth awaited her
wishes as to the music for the funeral of her son,
the Duke of Clarence, she said to him:
"His favourite hymn was 'Safe in the Arms of
Jesus.' "
Her Majesty was intensely feminine, as the fol-
lowing anecdote will confirm. It was when she was
Princess of Wales and was preparing to go to Ber-
lin to assist at the funeral ceremony of Kaiser
Friedrich. I was summoned to Marlborough
House to be there in case any advice was needed in
some crisis concerning the gowns of Her Royal
—204—
KING EDWARD'S RULE
Highness. The scene is as vivid to me to-day as
then.
The train was already waiting for the royal trav-
ellers at Victoria Station. Her Royal Highness
was busy, applying those last touches that every
woman seems to think of only at the last minute,
when the Prince of Wales opened the door of the
room. I can see him, as he stepped back in amaze-
ment, when he saw that the princess was wearing a
cloak which had no crepe trimming. It appeared,
though I shall never believe it, that Her Royal
Highness didn't know that it was necessary for her
to wear crepe.
"But, my dear," remonstrated His Royal High-
ness, very gently, "it is essential."
Speedily my acolytes were sent hurrying to my
house, and when they returned with the crepe we
sewed it on the cloak, while Her Highness patiently
stood up. I shall never forget the charming pres-
ence of the late Duke of Clarence (Cuffs and Col-
lars, as he was called ) . He was leaning on the man-
telpiece, doing his best to be formally solemn, to
suppress his laughter. I think we all of us in the
room only managed to keep serious with the great-
est difficulty. And yet, the beautiful princess
—205—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
seemed serenely unconscious that she was keeping
anybody waiting.
It was at Marlborough House, during the Jubi-
lee of Queen Victoria, that I first met the late
Czar of all the Russias. I was going upstairs to
Her Royal Highness' apartment, when at a very
narrow point in the corridor I met a young gentle-
man. There was scarcely room for us to pass, and
he had to squeeze himself up against the wall. Upon
seeing me, he took his cigarette from his lips, lifted
his hat, and passed on. When I got upstairs I told
them how I had met Prince George, as the present
King of England was then called.
"Oh dear no, dear Madame," I was told. "It
was the Czarevitch, the future Emperor of Russia."
As every one knows, there is a striking resem-
blance between King George of England and the
Czar of Russia, who are cousins. He impressed me
as a very charming youth, very modest in demean-
our, and very cordial. My first impression of him
was that of a young, unostentatious college boy,
who was up in London for the holidays; and yet,
there was something of a grand air about him, a
mysterious suggestion of his future destiny. I
wonder if he still remembers, this Czar of all the
Russias, those sweet pastoral days in England, so
—206—
KING EDWARD'S RULE
void of care and sorrow. At any rate, the dress-
maker has not forgotten his gracious bow. He can-
not have forgotten those delightful days in Lon-
don, although momentous times have supervened,
distress and horror have pursued him. Does the
youth subconsciously remember his own delightful
personality of those early days in London, or has
he really become a hard and unrelenting monarch?
I wonder, for the impression I derived of him was
truly a very adorable one.
I am doing my best to gather up the threads of
all these brilliant memories of former years method-
ically, trying not to slip any incidents, no matter
how small and unimportant they appeared at the
time.
-207—
CHAPTER X
HIS MAJESTY'S LAST AFFAIR OF THE HEART
During those hours of morbid retrospection, in
which kings and commoners equally indulge, His
Majesty King Edward VII found solace in a new
adherent to fill the void which the beautiful Count-
ess of W. had left. This favourite of the court be-
gan her comet-like career with brilliant notoriety.
She was not beautiful, she was tall, well formed,
and, history says, was particularly proud of her
limbs. She was somewhat younger than the Count-
ess of W. People described her as a woman of fine
stature, and attractive person. She had a great
deal of spirit, she was daring, and whatever she un-
dertook she carried out with considerable caution
and perseverance.
In her relation with the king she was stubborn,
sometimes presumptuous, faults that are almost in-
separable from a sudden rise to fortune, from com-
parative poverty.
In her earlier career Mrs. G. K. was very poor
—208—
HIS MAJESTY'S LAST HEART AFFAIR
indeed. I knew her when her first baby was born,
and she lived modestly in Wilton Crescent. No one
would have dreamed then that she could ever reach
her exalted station, if you like to call it such. I re-
call that she sent over to me one morning, with an
order for some tea gowns. Naturally I was re-
luctant, knowing that she could hardly afford my
prices. However, a certain lady M., who was then
Miss Teresa V., told me that she would be respon-
sible, and I sent a very pretty lace gown with pale
blue ribbon. In later years, this court favourite
could pay almost three figures for her gowns, when
in former times one figure was too much. Being
Scotch, she was naturally of a saving disposition,
and therefore amassed a goodly fortune which she
takes great care of. I heard that she was provided
with twelve thousand pounds a year, but, of course,
this is only rumour.
The royal favour mounted to her head like wine,
tilted her balance for a downward trend. His Maj-
esty showered all kinds of presents upon the new
star. She was nearly always with him. There was
a certain insolence in the way in which she endeav-
oured to usurp His Majesty. She dressed very
well, her favourite colour being blue. She claimed
to be an authority on certain theories of dress.
—209—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Those who looked on at this thriving romance,
realised that the impatient spirit of the new favour-
ite was little fitted to brook the devious endearments
of the sovereign. There were lovesick quarrels and
reconciliations in which the king indulged at times.
These mimic comedies of forgiveness gave ample
food for the cynics, and laughter for the superficial.
When in Biarritz, the favourite often went to His
Majesty's private sitting room. If for some reason
or other His Majesty's confidential valet would not
always allow her to enter, she made a scene, shed
tears of exasperation.
There were times of mimic remorse, when she
often declared that she would rather give every-
thing up than continue to be talked about, than
lead her life in the society of the king, which made
her intoxicated with the audacity of power.
She was never entirely contented because there
were always limitations to her ambitions, and she
foresaw them. She was always demanding new
proofs of his devotion to her. She feared always
the loss of a certain prestige which her relations
appeared to give her. She had a good brain, and
would have interfered in affairs of state. In fact,
she was constantly repeating to the king certain im-
portant facts which she pretended to have heard.
—210—
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CERTIFICATE GIVEN BY THE QUEEN OF R0UMAN1A
"Her delightful Majesty," as the author calls her, Queen of Roumania, sent
the Baroness her appointment, with a eulogistic epistle from the Chamber of
Commerce.
H. M. THE QUEEN OF ROUMANIA
Whenever I saw the Queen of Roumania, her
wonderful adaptability as a linguist was simply
astounding. We conversed in three languages,
which she had mastered brilliantly, in fact it was
difficult to say which really was her own language.
She had a beautiful voice, she was a brilliant mu-
sician, and a clever painter. She is one of those few
mortals upon whom the gods shower their wealth
of genius and talent. Her eldest daughter, the
Princess Elizabeth, is equally ravishing, admirable
and lovely. Court gossip, fame and rumour have
often announced the engagement of Princess Eliza-
beth. This is not to be wondered at, since she is
one of a family exceptionally gifted, with personal
beauty, and delightful disposition.
When I was honoured with the royal appoint-
ment to Her Majesty, Queen of Roumania, the
document came to me accompanied with a most
courteous letter from the Chamber of Commerce of
the Roumanian Court, which seems impregnated
with all the gracious tact and demeanour of the best
Courts in Europe. They have probably absorbed
the example from the beautiful Queen of Rou-
mania and the most jovial King.
Her Majesty most graciously presented me with
her photograph, which I prize most zealously and
—257—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
keep always before me. None of Her Majesty's
sisters can lay claim to such beauty as hers, though
the Grand Duchess Cecil, who was previously
Grand Duchess of Hesse, and her sister, the Duch-
ess of Montpensier, cousins of King Alfonso of
Spain, are still considered very good looking and
distingue. They have the inherent pride and regal
bearing of their mother, the Grand Duchess Marie
of Russia, who became the Duchess of Edin-
burgh.
The way I met Carmen Sylva was very unusual,
and quite romantic. It was when I was travelling
with my late husband through the Bavarian Alps.
I had sauntered away with an interesting book, and
choosing a very secluded spot, I found one of those
rustic seats, where with my little Pomeranian we
made ourselves comfortable. I was deep in the en-
joyment of my book when two ladies approached
and asked if they might sit beside me, as they had
been walking a long distance. So began a very in-
teresting conversation. We discussed politics,
ethics, nearly every subject under the sun, and I
was completely charmed with the brilliancy of the
one lady, who had the most beautiful white hair
imaginable. It was with real regret that I said au
revoir. Later, when I was going to meet my hus-
—258--
H. M. THE QUEEN OF ROUMANIA
band, I met one of those picturesque Bavarian men
of the Tyrol, who, in his rather clever, delightful,
musical dialect, asked me if I knew who the lady-
was I had been conversing with in so animated a
manner.
"That was Carmen Sylva, poetess and Queen of
Roumania," he said.
Dear Queen, she sleeps peacefully now. She was
a wonderful soul, charitable, kind. She was a
Princess of Wied before she married Carl of Rou-
mania. She was another of those brilliant meteors
in human form who flash upon a firmament full of
smaller stars, yet, she remained to the last the most
brilliant and glowing of them all. Nothing could
take away from her the burning blaze of her ideals.
I recall another incident, which almost brought
myself and my husband into the presence of King
Ludwig of Bavaria, he who was called the Mad
King. We were travelling through the Bavarian
Alps, and reached Innsbruck very late one night,
with our postillions, luggage and servants. All the
hotels seemed full. At the Innsbruck Hof the ami-
able Tyrolean host must have taken us for some
foreign potentates, for he told us most apologeti-
cally that the only vacant room in his house be-
longed to the King of Bavaria, who was absent on
—259—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
a hunt, and as His Majesty was not returning on
that night we might occupy it if we would. We
accepted at once, of course, and were ushered into
a room of magnificent proportions perfumed with
pine boughs, and with a huge fourposter bed that
looked most inviting to the weary travellers. Be-
fore a fire of huge pine logs, from a table beauti-
fully carved and so large that the snowy cloth failed
to cover half of it, we dined on scrambled eggs, a
bottle of Tyrolean wine, delicious black bread and
fresh butter, such fare as only a few hours before
had been placed on the same table for that hand-
some, genial, poetical King that many people call
Mad King Ludwig of Bavaria. Personally, I can-
not believe that he was mad. Eccentric, perhaps,
yet a soul that could conceive such adorable ideas,
such an enormous wealth of idealism, such artistic
sentiment, could be considered mad only by the
vulgar, who ever fail to understand the soul of
the artist. His one real and only love, the Duch-
ess d'Alencon, who lost her life in that terrible fire
in the bazaar at Paris, he could never forget.
Those lovely sisters, the Duchess d'Alencon and
the Empress Elizabeth of Austria, were universally
admired. When the Empress hunted in Ireland,
—260—
H. M. THE QUEEN OF ROUMANIA
every one adored her for her great pluck and her
audacious courage. I often saw her, and I with all
the rest of the world was shocked inexpressibly at
her untimely death at the hands of an assassin.
—261—
CHAPTER XV
OTHER MEMORIES IN ENGLAND
One realises, vividly, what this fearful night-
mare of war in which Europe now sleeps, really is,
as one looks upon those days of royal power and
grandeur, when the splendour of Kings was at its
height. Shall I ever forget the great ball given in
London to which I received a card of invitation,
given in honour of Kaiser Wilhelm and his con-
sort ! The horror of Zeppelins and submarines was
as remote then as the end of the world is to-day.
The Kaiserin was resplendent in a toilette of
Eastern fabric and colour, wearing the most superb
jewels imaginable, a gorgeous figure of an Em-
press.
The Kaiser in the uniform of a British General,
with the order of the Star and Garter on his breast.
He was an imposing and benignant figure, though
rather stern. He was surrounded by a number of
foreign attaches. I cannot believe that he is the
instigator of the fearful holocaust of human life in
Europe. Every one who knows anything about
—262—
OTHER MEMORIES IN ENGLAND
his personality remembers how he once adored
everything English, how warmly he felt towards
his royal cousins, and towards the land where his
royal mother was born. One must only imagine
that some mental earthquake could have changed
so wise and so evenly balanced a mind. But,
I am, perhaps, anticipating events!
The reception, when in London, to His Imperial
Majesty, the German Kaiser, was very cordial.
His feelings, however, could only be surmised,
not specified; if he had already concluded in his
mind his future aggressive thoughts, or if he really
came as a guest and friend to the British Isles, is
almost impossible to define. I always thought
him a friend of dear old England, staunch and
true to the colours of his mother's birthplace. Yet
— fC erare human est" — perhaps I saw in his stern
graven features something which the world had
not recognised, and if a mental earthquake shook
the evenly balanced potentate, only Divinity knows.
Relationships in war-time do not count; all is ab-
sorbed in the only manner, to do the best for one's
country always!
I must not become involved in the burning ques-
tion of the day, which is so remote from these
brilliant memories.
—263—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
It is not difficult, in imagination, to be seated in
my box at Buckingham Palace, as I was then, and
to find myself looking out upon the ball-room floor.
I see from my box King George dancing grace-
fully with the Princess Louischen. I see their Maj-
esties the Emperor of Germany and the Dow-
ager Queen Alexandra, in a quadrille. I see
Queen Mary of England, in her favourite waltz,
wearing her exquisite toilette of silver brocade, her
diamonds, and the famous Kohinoor, the African
diamond, and the largest in the world, worn as a
pendant on her brow like a fixed star. It was on
this occasion, at the supper, part of it served on
a large buffet, that the historical royal gold service
of which I spoke was used. Until the early hours
of the morning this memorable ball kept up. I
am convinced that at no other Court in Europe
were festivities to be seen on such a magnificent
scale. They were actually unknown at other
courts. The Court of King Edward VII set the
pace for splendour and wealth of everything, and
the Court of King George V maintained it, so
long as peace prevailed. I believe it was the last
great occasion in England when the Imperial
guests the Kaiser and Kaiserin of Germany were
feted and entertained there. It must surely re-
—264—
OTHER MEMORIES IN ENGLAND
main in their recollection as an everlasting and
wonderful souvenir of England, an expression of
the good will from the people of all classes in Eng-
land.
Who could believe that such relationships should
ever become hostile.
My memories involve other epoch-making inci-
dents in the history of royalty, that are equally
significant.
When Prince Napoleon (Lulu) was brought
back to England and laid to rest at Chiselhurst, I
received a card of invitation to be present at the
Chapel, from the Duke de Bassano, and Mons.
Petri, who graciously allotted me a seat there.
The little Chapel was hung in dark purple vel-
vet, with silver escutcheons and emblems of the
house of Napoleon. The catafalque standing on a
raised pedestal surmounted with draperies of the
same colour, on which was laid Prince Napoleon's
sword, and nothing but a little modest bunch of
violets. Many of Napoleon's coterie had come
over from Paris to be present at the ceremony,
which was very impressive. The clergy in their
sumptuous vestments, the melancholy chant of the
High Mass, it was all awe-inspiring and sad to a
degree. The tragic and dramatic end of the last
—265—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
of the Napoleons was something never to be for-
gotten. The initials R. I. P. were the inspiration
of a monster cross smothered in Russian and
Parma violets. Special trains were arranged at
Chiselhurst for our disposal after the funeral ser-
vices, refreshments were also served, and little
mementoes with inscriptions of the date of Prince
Napoleon's birth and death on the white and pur-
ple satin ribbons tied about them, were distributed.
All disaster, however, is sudden, and that which
has come upon us in Europe really seems so re-
mote, even in the comparatively recent years of
London's gaiety.
How well I remember the mammoth garden
party given by the beautiful Countess of Londes-
borough at Dunstan Lodge, her lovely town house
in Regent's Park. One could hardly imagine
one's self in a London house. Huge meadows pas-
turing prize sheep and cattle, a modern model
dairy, great trees and lovely lakes, with beautiful
flowers everywhere, these were the surroundings
at Dunstan Lodge. In years gone by it had been
a royal hunting box, belonging to one of the royal
Georges. To-day it is the property of your Amer-
ican millionaire, Otto Kahn.
At this memorable garden party, which was
—266—
OTHER MEMORIES IN ENGLAND
given to celebrate the laying of the foundation
stone of a cathedral in Salisbury, near Scar-
borough, where the ancestral estates of the Londes-
boroughs are situated, besides His Majesty King
Edward and Queen Alexandra, one met the entire
elite of the English aristocracy. The party being
for charity, the tickets of admission were five and
ten guineas each, or as much more as one wished to
give. As many of the toilettes worn on this gala
occasion were of the House of Frederic, I was
curious and anxious to see them in their proper
surroundings. Her Ladyship of Londesborough
might have stepped from a frame of one of her
family portraits, her presence was so beautiful and
so picturesque. Her costume, which I had the
honour of designing, was of palest flesh-coloured
crepe meteore, an over-dress of white Chantilly, an
old-world sash of black velvet, an enormous Leg-
horn hat, with narrow black velvet ribbon, and she
carried a bouquet of crimson poppies, blue corn-
flowers and yellow wheat. Her Ladyship's pecu-
liarity was a rather impetuous manner at times.
She always seemed to be in a tremendous hurry.
She arrived at my salons one day at two in the
afternoon.
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
"My dear, I must have a gown for to-night," she
said.
"But, my dear Countess, we have no fairy wands
in our establishment," I said.
"Never mind, you must manage it. I am per-
fectly aware that it will be a perfectly wonderful
thing to do, but I know that you will," said Her
Ladyship, and disappeared from my sight before
I could say a word. Next morning, I received
this startling telephone message from her :
"A thousand thanks, but I am already married,
it was a great success. Isn't it a great pity that
the religion of Brigham Young is not permitted in
England."
Lady Londesborough was decidedly impetuous.
Her brother, the Earl of Westmoreland, married a
step-sister of Lady Warwick, and when he died,
some few years ago, the Countess of Londesbor-
ough adopted his daughter, and I believe she is now
married again. Lady Londesborough's son, Lord
Raincliffe, is at the front doing his bit.
Her sweet and girlish daughter, the Lady Irene
Dennison, in a frock of purest white mousseline,
looked a perfect dream of youthful beauty. She
was tall, willowy and graceful, a perfect counter-
part of her lovely mother.
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OTHER MEMORIES IN ENGLAND
Another delightful woman of this period was the
Viscountess Falmouth, a very handsome woman,
and whom I always dressed with great care, be-
cause she wore her gowns to perfection. She was
very fond of the Burnous mantle, and had a great
trick of throwing one over her when driving.
I made her gown for the coronation ceremonies,
trimmed with lace and ermine or minnever, which
had been in the family for hundreds of years. By
deft manipulation I made a very unusual costume
of it.
For this occasion Queen Alexandra put aside
her mourning, and I made for her a beautiful
toilette of silver grey, bonnet en suite, with sprays
of lovely mauve lilacs. The artists who appeared
at this garden fete were great public favourites,
such as Little Elsie, now Mrs. Ian Boullough, and
the inimitable Joe Coyne, who gave the then popu-
lar "Merry Widow" dance, and received an ova-
tion. There was also the celebrated violinist,
Kubelik, and a number of other artists of equal
importance. The garden party ended when the
King and Queen arose to partake of tea.
It seems as though these events must have taken
place in another world, so tinged with romance do
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
they seem in these present times of stress and anxi-
ety. Yet, only a few years have passed.
An incident has just reminded me of the person-
ality of the celebrated Lady Brassey, whose yacht,
the Swnbeam, made her famous. She sent for
me once to come to her gorgeous country seat,
"Normanhurst," in Sussex. It was really a show
place, for her Ladyship in her trips around the
world in the Sunbeam had picked up the most
wonderful oriental rugs and embroideries, and val-
uable tapestries. The walls of the great reception
hall at "Normanhurst," with its enormous Jaco-
bean fireplaces, were hung with priceless treasures.
I can almost smell again the penetrating incense
sprinkled on those huge blazing logs, before which
we were sitting on huge skins of lions and tigers.
Lady Brassey was a sybaritic woman. Her
tastes were barbaric, and her almost phenomenal
extravagances were unique. Money had no value
to her, and she spent it freely with the indulgence
that her husband, Sir Thomas Brassey, could easily
supply, since he was the Empire's richest iron-
master and railroad king. The foundation of the
Brassey fortune was laid by Lord Brassey, his
grandfather. Lord Brassey became First Lord of
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OTHER MEMORIES IN ENGLAND
the Admiralty, and, with Lady Brassey, did a great
deal of good in England.
Upon arriving at "Normanhurst," I was first
lunched fe en Princesse" and then consulted with
Lady Brassey on the all-important matter of a
Court dress for the presentation of her eldest
daughter, now Lady Egerton; also one for her-
self and for her step-sister. Some time later, I
remember being seated on a big four-poster bed in
their town house in Park Lane, giving a very poor
imitation of Queen Victoria on her throne, while
these three ladies paid homage to me. They were
practising the difficult deportment which Court
etiquette demanded of them, and I found it very
amusing criticising their court bows.
Lady Brassey wore a gown of crimson oriental
brocade. It was so gorgeous in colour and design
that the Court was rather staggered by its daring,
yet it suited Lady Brassey's dark beauty to per-
fection, and as she approached the Queen at the
Drawing Room, she looked like an Eastern Em-
press. Never have I seen such teeth as she had,
they were so white and brilliant. I think she was
a bit vain of them, for she had a habit of drawing
up her lips in a sort of smile which was still not a
smile. Her daughter and her step-sister wore
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Court dresses that were really splendid counter-
foils for Lady Brassey. They were simply pure
white, with no other colour to mar their simple and
distinguished character. Lady Brassey was
drowned at sea, returning from a cruise. She was
greatly missed, and many envied me my possession
of her autograph, for usually her secretary wrote
all her letters.
One of the distinctly British holidays, or rather
commemoration days, is Primrose Day. The idea
originated through an organisation of the Primrose
League Dames. They planned to establish the
fame of Lord Beaconsfield, Disraeli, by selecting
his favourite flower, the primrose, which blossoms
in April, as a national Beaconsfield emblem. His
late wife, who was much older than he, was devot-
edly happy with him, and the idea no doubt ori-
ginated with her and her coterie of women friends,
who conservatively entered into a bond to perpet-
uate the fame of Lord Beaconsfield, the Prime
Minister who made Queen Victoria the Empress
of India. His statue is always profusely dec-
orated with primroses on Primrose Day. Politi-
cally, the Primrose League Dames are ultra-con-
servative, as they are in dress. It is a great dis-
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OTHER MEMORIES IN ENGLAND
tinction for women to belong to the Primrose
League Dames.
One can scarcely speak of Lord Beaconsfield
without thinking of Mr. Gladstone. Political op-
ponents as they were, they hated with vigour, and
made the torch of discord flame high in society. I
wonder what they would say to-day, seeing their
beloved country in the thrall of a feud which knows
neither Whig nor Tory, Liberal nor Conserva-
tive.
Lady Muriel de la Warr, "dainty Muriel," as
she used to be called, was married at sixteen, and
I gowned both her and her sister, who is Lady
Winnington, wife of the Governor of India. I
remember when as dear little girls, their mother,
Lady Brassey, insisted on giving them sealskin
jackets. In vain I remonstrated that they were
too mature and too costly for such young girls, but
Her Ladyship would have her own way. Peace
be with her, for her books are still read and very
much appreciated. Times are indeed changed
since those days of great entertainments given by
Her Ladyship as the grande dame of the Ambu-
lance Corps of St. John, to which she gave thou-
sands of pounds. Her millions possessed but one
charm, and that was to spend them regally and
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
royally, and no one who ever called upon Lady
Brassey for assistance was ever refused a generous
gift.
One of my distinguished clients was the wife of
the English Ambassador to Germany, Lady Er-
myntrude Malet, daughter of the Duke of Bed-
ford. She was a brilliant wit, and was very pop-
ular at the German Court, the Kaiser being par-
ticularly interested by her charm.
When the Kaiser's sister was married to one of
the Hesses, I made her gown of the palest grey
pearl damask fleuri, the embroideries of which, in
real gold, were a true work of art. The court
train of this gown was bordered in priceless Rus-
sian sable, an heirloom of the late Duchess of Bed-
ford, who in her youth had been one of the brides-
maids of the late Queen Victoria. Her Excel-
lency was one of those grandes dames who would
never go to a shop, or even to the salons of her
modiste. Everything was taken to her magnifi-
cent mansion in Eton Square for her inspection,
and there Lady Ermyntrude Malet would choose
the toilettes for which she was justly famous.
The Kaiser's sister was not tall; she was rather
blonde, had a neat little figure, was very modest,
very sweet, and very intellectual. Her married
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OTHER MEMORIES IN ENGLAND
life had been idyllic. She had twin sons twice.
Two of her sons have died on the field of honour,
and quite recently another son was killed in the
war.
For some time the Lady Ermyntrude Malet re-
tired into private life, but recently, at the begin-
ning of the present war, when the Duchess of Som-
erset organized a Charity Ball, she emerged from
her seclusion in the costume of a Court Lady of
Spain, which was very gorgeous. The underdress
was of historical gold embroidery, and a basquine
of palest pastel green, brocaded with arabesques
of gold, belonged to one of her ancestors. Her
collar, mantilla, and high Spanish comb, were all
real antiques, as well as her priceless jewels. Even
her gloves were embroidered with precious stones.
You may be sure she created a sensation at the ball.
I had gowned her for a quarter of a century, and
went to her house on the night of the ball to put the
finishing touches to this magnificent costume. The
interior of her mansion was exquisite. Every table
and chair was from a priceless collection of Louis
XV furniture. Original paintings by Greuze,
Rubens, Hoppner, hung against marvellous tapes-
tries that covered the walls. It was like a glimpse
of the Louvre or the Tuileries. Her Excellency,
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Lady Ermyntrude Malet, was perhaps more of the
old school, having little inclination for the modern
frivolities. Since the tragedy of the war, she is
working assiduously for a good cause, and spend-
ing huge sums for the wounded. I shall always
cherish her kindness and amiability, and will never
forget her rarely sympathetic nature.
How they crowd into my thoughts, those lovely
days, those gracious ladies, who were without ex-
ception all that was kind and loyal!
I shall always remember dear Lady Pierri, and
her sister, Miss Carlisle, with the greatest personal
regard for the many kindnesses they have really
shown me. When her clever husband was made a
Knight of St. Patrick, I designed the gown for her
to be worn on this occasion, made of royal blue
velvet, with ermine, crystal and silver embroideries.
Notwithstanding their enormous wealth they are
most unostentatious. Their donations to all chari-
ties are huge, and there is a magnificent and com-
pletely equipped hospital in the city of Belfast,
which they donated to the city. In their beautiful
home in London, there are no men servants. The
entire staff are Irish girls. The only two men em-
ployed by the household are the coachman and the
chauffeur.
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OTHER MEMORIES IN ENGLAND
Another celebrated figure in London society at
this time was Mrs. Alfred Morrison. She was a
Miss Schermerhorn; her brother was a celebrated
General, and her sister was the wife of one of the
Judges of the Supreme Court. Her wealth was
fabulous, and materially assisted in making her a
prominent figure in London society. Her taste
was decidedly French, preferably of the reign of
one of the Louis'. She was rather a clever violin-
ist, and a good linguist. She had a peculiar way
of walking which gave one the impression that she
was an Algerian woman. She never wore corsets,
and this added to her general habit of swaying the
body slightly as she moved, like a Houri, or like
one of the queens of a harem. Her town house in
Carlton Terrace boasted of a Carrara marble stair-
case worth fifty thousand dollars, alabaster urns
and vases, paintings by the old masters, a regal
fortune in sight everywhere. Her two daughters,
though quite beautiful, married rather late in life.
One became Lady White, and the other the
Viscountess St. Cyr. The latter was rather intel-
lectual. I made the dresses for them for their
coming-out ball, of white peau de sole, with scarlet
cherries, which became their dark beauty im-
mensely. The favours at this cotillion, supplied by
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
their mother, Mrs. Alfred Morrison, were very
costly. Since Mrs. Morrison has become a widow
she has retired into the country.
While I am sitting here assiduously writing, try-
ing to forget nothing which may be of interest, my
little Pomeranian dog, a bit of the old country,
from Devonshire, comes up and snuggles near me,
looks pleadingly into my eyes, as much as to say,
"Isn't it time to go to bed?" The little animal
makes me think of the words of Lafayette, "The
more I see of men, the more I love dogs."
-278-^
CHAPTER XVI
SOME FAMOUS GRANDES DAMES
Have you ever realised what that exotic being,
a Grande Dame, really means? One meets them
so rarely, and I might almost say that they are
nearly extinct.
Paradoxically, a Grande Dame is born, not
made. The magic ring of superb dignity and
charm in which they live, is really an invisible at-
mosphere created by their own incarnate nature.
I use the term "incarnate nature" as the only fit-
ting explanation of the extraordinary instinct for
superior humanity which the Grande Dame rep-
resents. She is imbued with the very essence of
all that is feminine perfection, she is brought up in
a creed which is daily becoming almost extinct, it
is the creed of good manners and kindly feeling.
Of course, the nursery has incubated her, the child
environment has been an atmosphere of superior-
ity, the ultimate education has been a factor. But
these are influences kept entirely in the back-
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
ground, the reserve forces, the fundamental pro-
pensities of a real existence.
One of the most perfect Grandes Dames of Eng-
land, of the old school, of course, was the late
Duchess of Buccleuch, Mistress of the Robes of
the late Queen Victoria. Her bearing, her voice,
softly modulated, her gracious, unostentatious de-
meanour was an influence that impressed and con-
quered. More than gracious to every one, yet
never familiar, she was the epitome of a Grande
Dame. Her mode of gowning, subdued and ele-
gant, was nevertheless a blend of colour which im-
pressed you. You felt that you were in the pres-
ence of somebody very lofty, but human. I re-
member she spoke very kindly to one of my as-
sistants, requesting her to sit down, and chatted
very pleasantly with her, asking her many ques-
tions as to the well-being of the employees of my
house. At the end of the conversation she sent for
the footman to bring her a nosegay, and went with
her to the door of her own room. This Grande
Dame never lost one iota of her dignity. She be-
came distinguished through the veil of her sweet
and lovable manner. After all, it is only those of
us who are not sure of ourselves, who most fear
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SOME FAMOUS GRANDES DAMES
familiarity. It is the veneer, the spurious imita-
tion of dignity, that fears to unbend.
The Grande Dame surrounds herself always
with great distinction by maintaining the most
careful social setting, by guarding rigidly her as-
sociations. She is a leader in society because of
her broad idea of responsibility to do all the good
she can, to influence the minds of less fortunate
people whom she meets at times. Your Grande
Dame does not wear her jewels at all times of the
day. She chooses her garments with a discretion
of colour, seeking always to soften, to subdue the
glamour of her station. When she walks it is as
though she were gliding. She never raises her
voice, her goal is perfect harmony.
Those splendid dinners and entertainments for
which English society was justly famous, were in-
spired by the Grande Dame. The character of the
menu, the selection of the dishes, had a certain re-
serve. There was an obvious talent of refinement
at these dinners, a clever evasion of the ostentation
of wealth. The quality and physical element of
these parties were never published to the world.
Your Grande Dame regards reticence as the high-
est duty of good taste. These entertainments, in-
spired and created by the genius of the Grande
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Dame, although rising to every attribute of splen-
dour, redundant with luxury, never had the noisy
error of equally grand entertainment given by
lesser personages, by social upstarts.
I recall a great reception given by the Duke and
Duchess of Buccleuch, where great admiration was
excited by some wonderful confectionery. The
guests were as delighted as children and paid as
much attention to this superb creation of the din-
ner as if it had been a great event of their lives.
Simplicity and sincerity were the elements and as-
sociates of the Grande Dame. Food, in those
days, was not conceived in the mixed indecision of
the present day. Of course the most delightful
dinners were to be found across the Channel from
England, where one found the Grande Dame of
France. She originated there.
The flowers on her dinner table were not of the
exotic quality. She preferred to be served in huge
vessels of crystal. To soften the glare of an indis-
creet world, she preferred the subdued light in
crystal chandeliers. There still lingers this quiet
motif of Beethoven in some old mansions, in the
roomy country houses of France, where the tradi-
tions of the Grande Dame survive. It is an at-
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SOME FAMOUS GRANDE S DAMES
mosphere which the parvenus try to get, but are
never quite able to imitate.
One of the insistent rules of the Grande Dame
has been entirely overthrown by the liberty of
modern life. It was a fixed tradition of good man-
ners, that the Grande Dame should never permit
a gentleman to smoke in her presence. Now she
smokes with them. A smoking room was always
provided where a gentleman could retire, and join
the ladies afterward in the drawing room, where
music, politics, and a little bit of scandal were en-
joyed. When I say scandal, however, I do not
mean all that the word implies to-day. Your
Grande Dame never permitted any flagrant dis-
cussions, and any one overstepping the discretion
of her social laws was ostracised. This, of course,
was done to protect the daughters, to prevent them
from hearing the chatter of the Clubs.
Another very distinguished Grande Dame of
England was the Duchess of Northumberland,
daughter of the Duke of Argyle. She was very
tall, very stately, with an air that was immune to
anything but regal traditions. Her circle was en-
tirely restricted, there were no intruders, because
she created a society for herself. She personally
scrutinised very carefully every invitation sent out
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
by her secretary. Only on rare occasions did she
reverse the invitations of her secretary. On these
occasions her list was augmented, but only for men
who were scholars, the Catholic Church dignities,
Cardinals, the Jesuit Princes of the soul-saving
community, a background of intellectual humanity
for the elite.
The period of the Grande Dame, which I fear
is passing away, had its tradition of correct con-
versation. They studied the proper mode of ex-
pressing themselves, they even established a fash-
ion of spelling. They attended modern French
discourses, and they used a phraseology superbly
refined. They spoke almost in whispers. They
devoted hours to having romances read to them,
after which literary discussions took place between
them. After all, these Grandes Dames being
women, they had their coteries. They were not
flippant in the sense of that word to-day, but they
occasionally admitted to their inner circle certain
insolent spirits of literature, or so-called philosophy.
They paid much formal respect to religious observ-
ances. It was a prerogative of the Grandes Dames,
exercised only on special occasions, to permit them-
selves to accept the homage of the crowds. This
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SOME FAMOUS GRANDE S DAMES
was extended to them only sometimes in a moment
of oversight by the crowds themselves.
There was in England a type of arrogant aris-
tocrats, who were not always to the manner born,
and these women tried very hard to enter the
charmed circle of the Grandes Dames, but were un-
successful.
One cannot excuse the Grande Dame of the
charge of haughtiness. This characteristic was
particularly evident when she appeared at Court.
It was on these occasions that the Grande Dame
asserted her rights, which were beyond and above
her rank. There were absolute Duchesses and in-
discreet Duchesses, who, when they met at Court,
clashed. A case in point was when the absolute
Duchess of Buckingham and Chandos met the
usurper. The latter was deliberately cut by her.
The usurping Duchess, however, who only wished
to usurp the rights of her rank, didn't care. She
had a commanding figure, she was a wonderful
personality, standing nearly six feet two. She
could walk for miles and miles on her own undis-
puted Scotch territory, which some of the Grandes
Dames could not do. She could hew a tree with
ease, she was a keen sportswoman, and when she
died, recently, she left one daughter, who married
—285—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
and divorced an Austrian nobleman. This Duch-
ess was colossally rich, and when the late Duke died
he left her everything excepting the property which
was not entailed. She cut the timber down upon
these Scotch properties. She removed a wonder-
ful organ from Stafford House, dismantled the
whole mansion, and did many quixotic things which
delighted the scandalmongers. Her first husband
was accidentally shot on the late Duke's estate.
Her marriage to the Duke was something of a dar-
ing venture. She came to America with him on
his yacht and they were married in Florida. She
was a Grande Dame by rank, but not by incarnate
nature. Perhaps she was the subject of censure
by inferior people. She spent enormous sums in
Paris and London upon her gowns, yet she was
Scotch, and that means she was not too liberal. I
know that she was economically inclined, and with
her brother, attended personally to all her business
affairs. She burned a pile of documents relating
to her inheritance, and this being in violation of a
Court Order, she was sent to Holloway Jail for
contempt of Court, for a month. She had a very
merry time there. She was allowed to furnish her
own room, ordered her own food, and kept her
maid with her. She received whom she liked, the
—286—
SOME FAMOUS GRANDES DAMES
only restriction being that she could not go outside
the prison.
Another notorious Grande Dame was the Duch-
ess "Bob." Being somewhat notorious as the
"sporting Duchess," she was not admitted to the
sacred precincts of the Grandes Dames of tradition.
Her language was very strong, liberally mixed
with undesirable epigrams. She lived most of the
time at her racing stables at Newmarket. She
never missed a race, where she was easily recognis-
able by her mannish costumes, which she wore with
the greatest ease. Being very rich, she lost like a
sportsman, without a murmur. Her stables were
kept like drawing rooms, and her grooms and ser-
vants adored her. I believe the late king was a
great friend of hers, for he also loved horses and
races. She married a second time, a prominent
banker, about thirty years younger than she was,
and very handsome.
The present Duchess of Montrose is really a
typical Grande Dame, and her lovely daughters
and sons are indeed great social favourites.
Then there is the present Duchess of Bedford,
who was a daughter of a Dean of Bombay. She
also is among the Grandes Dames of England, ex-
tremely clever, ultra-conservative and especially
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
particular about her social code. Although her
early youth was passed in the modest fashion in
India, she seems to the manner born. When the
present Duke of Bedford proposed to her in India,
he was the Marquis of Tavistock, and his chances
of inheriting the dukedom seemed rather remote,
till his brother died very suddenly.
The dowager Duchess of Bedford was and is still
a remarkable woman, a Grande Dame, very exclu-
sive and very handsome. Her sister is Lady
Henry Somerset, a remarkable orator, who has
travelled extensively in the United States. Both
the Duchess of Bedford and her sister, Lady
Henry Somerset, were daughters of the beautiful
Countess Somers, a direct descendant of that lovely
Quaker family of Elizabeth Fry.
The Duchess of Wellington and the Duchess
of Hamilton were both Grandes Dames, the latter
being the daughter of the Duchess of Manchester,
who later became the Duchess of Devonshire. She
was very fond of the sporting world, and lacked
repose and distinction because her pursuits and
pleasures were perhaps more boisterous than the
traditions of her rank demanded. Her husband,
the late Duke of Hamilton, was, on his mother's
side, of royal blood. She was Marie, Duchess of
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SOME FAMOUS GRAXDES DAMES
Baden. He was one of the richest land-owners in
Great Britain and Scotland. The present Duch-
ess married a second time, her land steward, and I
believe they are intensely happy. Their daughter,
Lady Marie Hamilton, who was the greatest heir-
ess in England, married the Marquis Graham, heir
to the dukedom of Montrose. Like all other Brit-
ish aristocrats, he is doing his best for the good
cause.
This sketch of the Grandes Dames of England
would not be complete without reference to the tall,
willowy, and distingue woman, the Duchess of
Portland. She is the one Grande Dame whose
code of ethics succeeded in keeping out of her
charmed presence all doubtful and uncertain
classes. Welbeck-Abbey, her residence, was in-
deed the most desirable castle in England. The
former Duke of Portland immortalised it by build-
ing in the castle gorgeous subterranean salons.
The Duchess presided with grace in the midst of
her artistic environments. She was a woman of
elegance and simplicity. She always wore in her
girdle some Malmaison carnations. They were
her floral code. Her son, the Marquis of Tich-
bourne, and her daughter, Lady Bentinck, look
exactly like His Grace the Duke of Portland. He
—289—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
was the Master of the Horse and Knight of the
Star and Garter.
Their marriage was a story of love at first sight.
She was Miss Dallas Yorke, and the Duke saw
her standing on the platform of a small station in
England. He was struck by her distinction, her
lovely blue eyes, her tall, graceful figure, and she
has not changed much. She is always delightfully
and simply gowned, her hair is beautiful. She is
regal-looking, is especially gracious and amiable,
and is by all means the most perfect type of the
Grande Dame left in England.
—290-
CHAPTER XVII
SOME RECOLLECTIONS OF ROYAL CHILDREN
Since the children of royalty have to be brought
up, like other children who consider themselves less
fortunate, they are put through the same child ex-
periences. Being well brought up, they are sweet
and simple babies, who are not permitted to realise
that they are playing in the shadow of the throne.
I was privileged to know most of the little princes
and princesses of England, when they were mere
children. I have played with them in the royal
nursery, shared the accessories of their royal kin-
dergarten.
There were two nurseries in whatever palace the
children happened to be. The day nursery was a
lofty room. The walls were hung with harmless
etchings and nursery rhymes. The toys and the
books, in large array, all had their places on shelves
or in drawers. There were little white tables with
little white chairs. There was plenty of floor-
room, and the general effect was airy, bright, or-
—291—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
derly. Adjoining the nursery and part of the
children's suite was the music room. There was
hardly any furniture in this room, but it was artis-
tically arranged, so that the young princes and
princesses could strum on the piano to their heart's
content. I don't think it hurt the piano much, for,
of course, it was not altogether of the first quality.
Briefly, such was the Day Nursery.
The Night Nursery, where the little princes and
princesses slept, was a very little room. It was so
small that one realised how easy it would be to keep
it in order. Each little kiddie had a white cot,
each had a separate chest of drawers, each had a
stand where boots and shoes were kept, each had a
looking-glass. A plain straw matting covered the
floor, and the general colour of the room was white
and rose. There were three easy-chairs, put there
for the head nurse and her assistants, usually two.
On the windows were white muslin curtains. The
nurses or the nursery governess were always pres-
ent when the children enjoyed their games. The
uniforms worn by the nurses were white linen, and
spotless white caps.
The royal children themselves were always very
simply dressed. The young princes in their baby-
hood always wore plain cotton frocks, later they
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ROYAL CHILDREN'S RECOLLECTIONS
were dressed in little overalls and tiny slippers.
These, of course, were their nursery dresses. They
had wonderfully good times together, especially
when they had games with their nurses in the big
room where there was no furniture to bother them.
The nursery was on the third floor of Buckingham
Palace, overlooking Buckingham Palace garden.
There were five huge windows which overlooked
the lovely grounds. Sometimes the royal children
got away from their too-zealous nurses and romped
about regardless of what the stately head nurse in
her immaculate uniform would say or think.
The most refractory child, perhaps, was Princess
Marie, who was rather self-willed, but her little
German nursery maid usually understood her
mood, and I believed they compromised very easily.
What sweetly simple and well brought up chil-
dren these little mites were. How they enjoyed
teasing the nurse-maids, and being teased in re-
turn. The boys would be found riding furiously
on dangerous rocking-horses, or directing a battle
with tin soldiers, or pretending to play football,
while the little girls were seated in eager silence,
listening to the nursery governess, who was reading
to them from Andersen's Fairy Tales. The nurs-
ery, of course, was not far from their mother's bed-
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
room, and they used to make secret pilgrimages
there.
The queen thoroughly dislikes smartness for
children, so their clothes were very simple but ser-
viceable. I remember seeing the little Princess
Marie, her hair hanging down her back in lovely
wavy curls, being dressed for a walk in the Buck-
ingham Palace grounds, and I was impressed with
the fact that her boots were hobnailed, because it
happened to be a damp morning. They were all
brought up charmingly, absolutely free from any
ceremony. They were not imbued with militarism,
or altruism. The purpose seemed to be that they
should be brought up to long and useful lives of
health and happiness. There was no ceremony in
their relations with their parents. They called the
king and queen mother and father. The children
were all fair, with that peculiar freshness of com-
plexion which one so often sees in English chil-
dren. One of their chief amusements was to tease
the royal footmen, who to them were obnoxiously
stately. Prince John was very fond of wrestling
with his elder brothers, but he always wanted his
own way, and they usually gave it to him.
Princess Marie was a tall and graceful child, and
was treated with a great deal of awe by her broth-
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ROYAL CHILDREN'S RECOLLECTIONS
ers and sisters because of her calm and aristocratic
bearing. She had her own bedroom, furnished in
pure white, and yet very simple. The room con-
tained a couch, a chair, a dressing-table on which
was her ivory dressing-set. The table had a glass
top, and there were always fresh flowers, plucked
from the conservatory, on this table. It was a
perfect little nest for a princess, containing the
books chosen for her by her governess, her writing
materials upon her little rosewood desk, photos of
her beloved parents and her intimate friends upon
the mantel shelf. The photographs of her grand-
mother and great-grandmother were very conspic-
uously displayed in the room. Her little upright
piano was also in white. One can realise how ideal
her childhood conditions were in these delightful
surroundings.
It was the custom at a certain hour of the day
for the family barouche to be sent for, and the
royal children were driven out for a constitutional
in Hyde Park, accompanied by the head nurse and
her assistant, wearing the grey uniform of the
street with tiny black bonnets. The speed of the
carriage was very carefully restrained by the
coachmen. As the carriage passed under Marble
Arch, the sentries would salute, and the boys would
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
return it. The princes were usually dressed in
sailor suits, the princesses in white.
I recall how delightful the little Princess Marie
was with a doll which I dressed for her. Her
acknowledgment of the present had in it the qual-
ity of graciousness which one expects from royalty,
but it was a very charming letter. Of course, these
children were wonderfully guarded, always pro-
tected from any outside influence that could be un-
desirable, yet they were perfectly natural children.
They delighted in fighting, romping, and having a
general good time. If they were not always in the
mood of obedience, they were punished, like other
children.
The two older princes, the Duke of Clarence
and the Duke of York, when they were boys of nine
or ten years old, were sent on a trip around the
world in care of a guide who had long been asso-
ciated with the British Court. This gentleman
was sent with them to make them behave, and they
did. From him I learned a great deal about the
characteristics of the two royal princes. He told
me that the Duke of Clarence was in every sense
of the word a perfectly lovable boy. He gave very
little trouble to his tutor, and from all I could hear,
much less trouble than Prince George, who was
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ROYAL CHILDREN'S RECOLLECTIONS
not quite so easily managed. These traits in after
years showed themselves very strongly. Prince
George became King of England, and his boyhood
was the starting-point of those little childish out-
bursts of temper, which indicated that he would
always insist on having his own way. The trip
around the world proved a very delightful one
upon the whole. There would have been a great
deal of homage paid to them en route if this had
been permitted; their royal parents, however, were
very particular upon the point that no ostentation
of ceremony should be shown them. Prince George,
later Prince of Wales, now King of England, had
a very retiring manner in his boyhood, which has
still clung to him. It is reported on one occasion,
when the little princes were anchored on board ship
near a foreign wharf, a number of poor children
had gathered there, hoping to get a glimpse of the
royalty. Both the young princes being on deck,
their tutor said to them, "Throw them some
money." The Duke of Clarence promptly put his
hand in his pocket and threw a handful of coins
upon the wharf. Prince George hesitated. His
hand went into his pocket, but he reconsidered, say-
ing, as he walked away, "I think I will hold on to
mine."
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Years ago, when the children of King Edward
VII and Her Majesty Queen Alexandra were
growing up, I was privileged to visit the royal
nursery. The child of this royalty who chiefly at-
tracted my attention was Princess Maud, young-
est daughter of Queen Alexandra, who is now
Queen of Norway. She was a plump, short little
girl, with a rather noisy manner, and was regarded
in the nursery as a tomboy. Her laugh was in-
fectious, and it made the nursery gayer. She was
a very smart little girl, and her special attendant,
Miss W., had her hands full.
I recall one day being at Marlborough House,
about the time of the engagement of the Duchess
of Fife. The Duchess brought her fiance into the
apartment of the young princesses. I heard the
then Princess Louise call out, rather pointedly, to
one of the nurses :
"Take these kids away, they are so noisy," and
in a titter of laughter the younger royal children
disappeared. Princess Louise herself, at that
time, was only eighteen years of age, the younger
girls about thirteen and fifteen. I wonder to-day,
if these royal children take the joy in their retro-
spection of that wonderful youth of theirs, so beau-
tifully guarded and so educationally inspired.
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THE ROYAL CHILDREN
The author, before going to Australia, had many opportunities to see and
speak with these children when they were still Duke and Duchess of York.
ROYAL CHILDREN'S RECOLLECTIONS
I knew Queen Marie as a child, she was the ap-
ple of her parents' eyes. Her brothers adored
her, and she was with them always. They fought
together, they quarrelled together, they grew up in
a certain imprudent intimacy. Her Majesty in
her childhood joined in all the games of the boys,
she was a real child of nature. Her nursery gov-
erness and her finishing governess was Madame
Brica, and she told me that she sometimes had
great difficulty in curbing the exuberance of this
high-spirited royal child. During her childhood,
Her Majesty was a universal favourite in the little
village of Richmond and Kingston-on-Thames,
where these royal children were brought up. This
place still has a great attraction for Her Majesty,
for her beloved mother, the Duchess of Teck, is
buried in that vicinity. She was indeed a lovable
and charming mother, who entered into the fun of
everything that her children loved. Her Majes-
ty's handsome brother, whom she adored, Prince
Francis of Teck, was a gay young spark, and many
were the youthful scrapes out of which she helped
him. He died only a few years ago in the fine
flower of his manhood, and his sister grieved very
much for him. Her eldest brother, the present
Duke of Teck, married the daughter of the first
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Duke of Westminster. The children of the Duke
of Teck are naturally also of royal blood, as are
the children of the youngest brother, who married
the brother of the Duchess of Albany.
Royal children are not different in any way
from all children. They have moments, too, when
they lack repose, when they are boisterous, viva-
cious, obdurate, when they shirk their lessons, and
when they overeat themselves with candy. In
childhood they weave fairy tales, in maidenhood or
manhood they weave romance or tragedy, the chil-
dren of yesterday are the grown-up children of
to-day.
The royal children of Italy have been brought
up under the personal supervision of their adored
mother, who was a very clever woman, the daugh-
ter of a Montenegrin prince, Nicholas, the father
of several queens of Europe. She always person-
ally assists at their lessons, shares their indoor and
outdoor sports, rides with them in the riding
school. Athletic sports is the principal pastime
for the little princes and princesses. The boys
look forward with great pleasure to playing sol-
diers. Particularly are the children adored by
the mountaineer regiment of the Bersaglieri, that
handsome regiment wearing green plumed feathers
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ROYAL CHILDREN'S RECOLLECTIONS
in their hats. The little Italian Crown Prince is
already a lieutenant of his own regiment.
The games which royal children enjoy are nat-
urally expensive and elaborate. They have the
blocks to build wonderful castles, material for
fortresses, for feudal ruins. In a lake of real water
they put mechanical swans that swim around, or,
they are directing armies of toy soldiers. Some-
times they go fishing on miniature lakes filled with
decoy ducks, or they sail their little boats. Es-
pecially do they love animals, rabbits, dogs and
ponies. The Shetland ponies of the royal children
are almost a necessity to their happiness, and dogs
of all kinds romp with them. And yet, we observe
that as time went on, and the young princes of
royal blood became a little older, they played cro-
quet, lawn-tennis, rather bad football, and they
learned to swim. Englishmen are usually good
sportsmen because of their early training. It was
a standing joke in London to describe the early
morning riders in the park as the "Liver Brigade."
The tutor of the royal children of England was
Mr. Hanson, a German. The morning usually
began with lessons in the schoolroom, which was a
high-ceiled big one, containing a globe and all the
maps of Europe.
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
His Majesty George V sent the two older boys
of his family quite early in life into the army and
navy. Very often these striplings were put to the
test. Of course, they were good linguists, speak-
ing German and French fluently. To learn
French the present young Prince of Wales was
sent to France in the family circle of the Marquis
and Marquise de Bretuille. The Marquise was
born in America. The Prince of Wales naturally
became the intimate friend of French boys. He
learned and saw Germany at its best, going to
Heidelberg and the smaller towns when he was
quite young.
The days of nursery rhymes have gone, and I
wonder if these grown-up children of royalty ever
think of those days when they used to sing with
such vigour the baby rhymes of "Goosie, Goosie
Gander."
—302—
CHAPTER XVIII
MINISTERS AND PRIME MINISTERS I HAVE
KNOWN
No one will deny that a man who becomes Prime
Minister of any nation must be a clever man; but
as we women govern our admiration of men by
other qualities than those political, my impressions
of the Prime Ministers I have known may not add
to their diplomatic distinction. In diplomacy, in
political resource, of course, they were all brilliant.
I imagine that it was something of a strain for the
kings and queens whom they served to establish
congenial relations with them.
Since I lived so long in England, my first recol-
lection of Prime Ministers is Mr. Gladstone. My
impression of Gladstone may surprise some people
who were overwhelmed by his public oratory in
the House, but I am convinced that he possessed
a pride so sensitive that it made him timid at times,
especially prudent upon discussing any subject
with which he was not fully acquainted. Mr.
Gladstone's opposition to Lord Beaconsfleld was
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
maintained chiefly by a certain instinctive subtlety
with which he stuck to the one vulnerable point in
Beaconsfield's armour. He often remarked that
he had nothing to say regarding the precocity of
Disraeli's doctrines, and he often worked upon this
noncommittal attitude until his manner assumed
the proportions of a personal insult.
Notwithstanding the fact that they were oppo-
nents, they visited at the same houses. When they
met in this way, their indignation was galvanised
by the political cross-current of their ambitions.
In their debates in the House, tact, if not preju-
dice, would often prevent the presence, either in
the gallery or on the floor of the house, of the un-
invited.
It was when, upon special invitation, I found
myself on the terrace of the Houses of Parliament,
that I would sometimes see these great men, Mr.
Gladstone and Lord Beaconsfield, moving about
in deep thought. From my woman's point of view,
I often wondered at the complete difference be-
tween these men. Mr. Gladstone was a great ad-
mirer of the fair sex, and he always took especial
pains to charm them by his wit, by his satirical
mannerisms. It was his special gift to make any
lady he was talking to believe that she was the only
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MINISTERS AND PRIME MINISTERS
woman in the world. I often wondered at the
audacity towards women of this great statesman.
These moments of frivolity, however, were only the
little sideplays of a man whose whole career was
one of great ambition and great purpose. I con-
sider he was the greatest politician in England
since Lord Palmerston and Pitt. He, single-
handed, managed Great Britain's political ship,
steered it clear of many rocks. He was a great
friend and admirer of Bismarck, of Monsieur
Thiers, and Cardinal Rampolli was his warm and
earnest friend. I am wondering, as I recall these
qualities of Mr. Gladstone and of Lord Beacons-
field, whether if these men had been at the helm of
State, the English Empire would have been in-
volved in this terrible war.
Mr. Gladstone was a tall, raw-boned, broad-
shouldered man. His grey hair was sparsely
combed over his intelligent forehead. He had
a rather prominent nose, and he was usually
dressed in a suit of black broadcloth. I suppose
that his coat would have passed for a Prince Al-
bert, but it was a compromising Prince Albert.
He always wore the broad, white collar of the thir-
ties and a black satin stock. When he walked
abroad, down the Mall, he always seemed in deep
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
thought, walking with his hands behind his back.
When he would stride along St. James, through
Bond Street, he would stop and look into the shops,
where photographs of pretty women were dis-
played. He would look leisurely at the passersby,
greet a friend here and there, and he was distinc-
tive chiefly because of a strange black cape, fash-
ioned in a period of the thirties, which fluttered in
the wind as he walked, like the wings of a huge
bat. He succeeded in impressing the people with
an idea of their own versatility, and incidentally
of the composite quality of his own power. When
a debate of importance in which he figured was to
occur, when it was most formidable and of extraor-
dinary length, it was an unwritten law among the
members of the House to cheer him enthusiasti-
cally. Undoubtedly he was a great orator. He
was very fond of using scriptural texts, and his
interpretation of a moralist disarmed many.
Morally, he himself was not handicapped by his
personal faith in his own moral teachings. The
defects of his character would have been incom-
prehensible, if he had not been so strong-minded.
The end of his career resembled a dramatic per-
formance in which the chief characters all make
their exit in the last act.
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MINISTERS AND PRIME MINISTERS
The attitude of Mr. Gladstone to Queen Vic-
toria was somewhat complex because they were en-
tirely different intellectual elements. The Queen
had not lived an agitated life. Her people loved
her, and Mr. Gladstone did his best to keep up the
traditions of her career, to maintain the character
of prevailing etiquette. He created the custom
of morning visits to Her Majesty. There could
be no complication at such an hour, and his wisdom
in this ceremony was applauded by the English
public.
Mr. Gladstone demonstrated his love of sim-
plicity, both in his literary and architectural activi-
ties, for he had many alterations made in the pub-
lic buildings. When the people of London, civil-
ians and soldiers, were massed around the House
of Commons, they saluted him. His open glance
would frankly take in the homage of the multitude,
and he would go calmly on, and enter the precincts
of Westminster. He was very fond of reading the
Psalms. His greatest speeches were always orig-
inal and impressive. I was told that he was par-
ticularly strict about his office details. In his pri-
vate office he frequently dictated orders and diplo-
matic despatches, and he kept his private corre-
spondence neatly tied up.
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
I knew him when he had passed the meridian of
life, when his word was law, when his actions spoke
loudly and yet no one questioned them. His po-
litical standards were governed by two immutable
ideas — his own will, and the will of the people. His
chief object was to suppress or adjust all individual
opinions to his own supreme, liberal ideas, and to
develop his own influence throughout Great Britain.
He was a very rich man, having supplemented his
wealth by a great acquisition of property. He
often said that the queen had not given him free
reign, but he loved his Sovereign though she had
compelled him to do things which often were repug-
nant to him. Heaven had endowed him with a
great gift of endurance, and, of course, he did not
succumb to the load heaped upon him by his politi-
cal opponents. Mr. Gladstone was a man who had
a natural love of intrigue, and he had always been
conversant with the politics of France and Ger-
many. His idea of monarchical power was almost
a religious dogma, and those who rejected his ideas
were pursued with vigour. His opponents often
smiled at his defiance, because he would seize by
authority, and find himself incapable of using his
power over that which he had seized. His intel-
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MINISTERS AND PRIME MINISTERS
lect delighted in eloquence, for he was a serious
man, a devoted husband.
There was scarcely a man in the House of Par-
liament who did not fear the determined look in
Mr. Gladstone's eyes. He was great in thought,
but in feeling he remained a Scotchman to the
end of his life. Like all Scotch people, he was im-
aginative, he raised altars to his ideals. His own
life betrayed his illusions sometimes, and his ro-
mantic instincts led him into sentimental by-ways.
Looking over his achievements to-day, his adminis-
tration as Prime Minister becomes comprehensible.
He did nothing effectual but he was a devout
Christian, and he could not comprehend any form
of government but a monarchy.
Mr. Gladstone's relations with royalty were cor-
dial, but I think he knew that his Queen merely
used his services, and had no other sympathy for
him. He, however, knew the value of the men who
were in office with him, for he had sounded their
character. The men he appointed were judi-
ciously selected for their diplomatic missions. He
only demanded firmness and loyalty to him, and
that his diplomatic officers should not concern
themselves either with the objections or the resist-
ance of other nations.
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
The English people, of course, knew that he re-
fused the peerage, but he was a very headstrong
man. No matter how uncertain the political hori-
zon looked, Mr. Gladstone always feigned ignor-
ance of coming events. He was a moralist, but
he never harangued anybody upon that theme, and
he freely ridiculed them. Frequently Mr. Glad-
stone journeyed to his Scottish home with his fam-
ily, to enjoy a thorough rest from his strenuous
parliamentary shouting, and congenial friends
would be invited. The public had great interest
in his private home life. He was a prudent man,
but invariably he exceeded the proportions of his
virtue; generally speaking, he was cordial but
sometimes he limited his intercourse to a purely
conventional exchange of civilities, so that he never
lost the good graces of his friends. His political
intuitions were keen.
My own knowledge and acquaintance with Mr.
Gladstone, though slight, impressed me that he was
a very ambitious man and an ardent partisan of all
that gave him a chance of being witty. He knew
that the throne of England was quite secure, for
there could be no honour with an alliance of any
foreign power. His ideas of being dependent
upon the bounty of France was repellent to him,,
—310—
MINISTERS AND PRIME MINISTERS
and to-day, if some have lost their thrones, have
fled to foreign countries and sought refuge in the
kingdoms of their friends, and have found comfort
and ease in the present circumstances and being
near to the verge of bankruptcy, well he has kept
the crown. The series of exiled monarchs to whom
England has given hospitality, the Sovereigns of
former times, were not familiar with revolutions
and their ignorance made them fearless; they de-
spised precautions. They were improvident, they
saved nothing for a rainy day. They scorned all
business and looked with contempt upon all. If
they lost their throne and fled to foreign countries
and sought refuge in their friends' homes, their
respectabilities were matters of chance, and all this
Gladstone foresaw, and acted accordingly with
honours and affections. His memory must be
classed in recording all he has done for Great
Britain and Ireland. The king and the Prince of
Wales would sit in the gallery and listen to his
eloquent speeches with great pleasure.
Of an entirely different temperament and char-
acter was Disraeli. He was a complex man, and
of course, as every one knows, a great favourite of
Queen Victoria, who adored him for making her
Empress of India. The English people them-
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
selves quickly recognised in him a conservative
leader, and his triumph at the Congress of Berlin
was a great political victory.
My personal acquaintance with Lord Beacons-
field and his wife remains very vivid in my mem-
ory. Lord Beaconsfield had a very wonderful per-
sonality, exceptional magnetism and a grace of
manner that always put every one at their ease. He
adopted the clothes and appearance of a man living
in the period of the Georges. He had very little
hair on his head, when I knew him, an extraordi-
nary wisp of a moustache, well-shaped hands, and
a deportment that made you at once understand
that you were in the presence of an accomplished
gentleman.
I remember chatting with him once in Rotten
Row, and we discussed the success of Wagnerian
Opera at Covent Garden. Lord Beaconsfield was
very fond of Wagner, but I remember he deplored
the lack of refinement in the production and the
singers at that time. Especially I remember he
wore very tight trousers, high-heeled patent leather
shoes, white spats, a bell-shaped silk hat, and yel-
low kid gloves with black stripes. Altogether he
was a "Dandy." Lady Beaconsfield, although in
appearance a Grande Dame, did not go into so-
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MINISTERS AND PRIME MINISTERS
ciety very much. Her life was one of adoration
and love for her husband, so that her time was de-
voted entirely to him. She was the acme of refine-
ment, tall, elegant, and when I met her she was
growing a little grey. Of course, the ladies ad-
mired His Lordship very much, and he may have
had his little heart affairs but they were looked
upon as mere unimportant indiscretions. I am in-
clined to think that it will not do to let the world
look at him through a moral spy-glass.
Lord Beaconsfield's chaste affections for Her
Majesty made him a favourite at Windsor Castle,
and he rejoiced in this show of good will from
the Queen. In literature, which was one of the
charms of his busy life, the reality of his theme, the
truth of his characterisation crowned his work with
success. His books were translated into many lan-
guages, and in Germany his "Lothair" was widely
read, the theme of matrimonial love turned into
friendship, was sublime ! His wife was much older
than he was, but she inspired him. Her infatua-
tion gleamed through all his books. A peculiarity
of Lord Beaconsfield's literature is that it always
retained the highest standards of delicacy, and his
books have retained their literary influence to-day.
All sorts and conditions of men have been admirers
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
of their quality. The Queen delighted in them
herself. I, for one, admired them so much that
I have re-read "Lothair" once a year.
It seems to me that Lord Beaconsfield exerted a
dominant influence upon the destinies of our mod-
ern literature.
His social success was dazzling, because he was
exquisitely eloquent and polite, and there was a
fiction to the effect that Lord Beaconsfield was re-
garded as a survivor of a mysterious and superior
civilisation. The ladies of the Court of St. James
were proud of their power to attract the notice of
this distinguished nobleman, and the homage he
paid them was of a kind nobody could criticise.
The Queen's acceptance of his devotion was nat-
urally a confirmation of his correctness in good
manners, for Queen Victoria was ever critical,
both as regards to form and conversation. She al-
ways exacted minute attention to the details of
civility, and the manners of Disraeli displayed the
peculiar gallantry of the epoch. His chivalry
found its source, no doubt, in a romanticism which
he had absorbed from other countries, like France,
for instance, and there were nil the symptoms of a
moral in his romances.
Disraeli was the man of the hour, at a time when
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MINISTERS AND PRIME MINISTERS
such a man was most needed. I think his genius
for statesmanship was considerably helped by his
qualifications as an author, and I doubt whether,
without the latter qualification he could have so
well comprehended the political situation of his
country. How much the ladies thought of him is
shown in the survival of that organisation of
women called "The Primrose League." It exists
in a spirit of love for his memory, to do him honour.
It perpetuates his reputation for estheticism, with
which he surrounded himself in his early youth.
Long before he entered politics he had devoted
many years to meditation and study, so that when
he found himself in the political arena he could
stand apart from his politics and live an intellectual
life which extricated him and brought to light the
ideals of his condition.
His contemporaries have declared him to be
always real and natural. Of course, he aroused
the jealousy of his opponents, but he cared nothing
for their reproaches. The finest sentiments of his
character he distributed lavishly among his Lords
and Commons. While he was compelled to fight
the party spirit, his pride was never assailed.
While I am thinking about the great men who
were leaders of national life, I recall meeting
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Mons. Thier, who was the president of France.
He was a modest little man, inclined to be stout,
and he looked out mildly upon the world through
his gold spectacles. Being a great lawyer, he had
all the technical knowledge necessary to overcome
the difficult political questions which confronted
him, and his persuasive powers of conversation
made him very popular with the ladies. To France,
the republican form of government was new, and
he certainly administered it brilliantly, for it was a
diplomatic chaos.
I conversed with him at the filysee, Paris, dur-
ing a very large reception, and I remember that
he avoided politics adroitly, made nice little ob-
servations about the ladies' gowns, and I noticed
that the general crowd did not interest him very
much, but he was suave and gracious to a degree.
Later I met Monsieur Felix Faure, a handsome,
debonair, elegant man, smart to a fault, and a
great friend of the ladies. He died very suddenly
and too early in life, and the truth of the scandal
which his death evoked may be questioned. I be-
lieve the French people liked him greatly.
It was when I was a child, perhaps eight years
old, that I saw Bismarck, the greatest living
statesman of that time. The incident of this occa-
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MINISTERS AND PRIME MINISTERS
sion reveals the fact that though he was a man of
an iron will, he had his soft spots. My parents
had been invited to the country seat of a big land-
owner, whose property was next door to the coun-
try residence of the then modest gentleman, Herr
von Bismarck. His estate was called "Schoen-
hausen," and was about five miles from Berlin.
With some other children we were playing hide-
and-seek on the edge of this property, when sud-
denly he appeared standing before me. To my
child vision he was just a tall gentleman. Rather
autocratically he put his hand on my very abundant
hair and said:
"What are you doing here?"
I remember the sternness of his manner made
me tremble, and I told him that I had lost my way,
explaining to him that we were the guests of his
neighbour.
"Yes," he said, smilingly, "but you are not my
guest at all."
"Please excuse me, sir," I said.
"Well, never mind, we'll forget it," he said, and
he took me by the hand, and we walked together.
I prattled, and he listened, and then he gave me a
smack on my head, and a beautiful bunch of
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
grapes. Then, he lifted me over the shrubbery out
of his own grounds.
Bismarck was a wonderful husband and father,
his only daughter, Baroness von Rantzau, I believe
still survives him, and his two sons. Their mother,
the Princess Bismarck, was a wonderfully charm-
ing and clever woman, whom I met years ago.
Bismarck was born on the first of April, univer-
sally accepted as All Fools' Day, yet he did not
fool himself or others during his life. In com-
memoration of his birthday fires are lighted on the
heights of every mountain, on his anniversary, to
show he is not forgotten, and to justify the rever-
ence in which he is held.
I cannot close this chapter without a passing
word concerning Mr. Asquith, the former Prime
Minister of England. He was rather command-
ing in appearance, his white hair giving an air of
dignity to him. He has rather a broad nose, a very
steady and very serious look in his eyes, and in gen-
eral appearance is a benevolent figure. He was
very much liked by his Party.
Every one knows the reputation for cleverness
which his wife, his second wife, by the way, who
was Miss Tennant, has. She was a great friend of
all that was French and foreign. Mr. Asquith
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MINISTERS AND PRIME MINISTERS
survived those times when men changed their politi-
cal parties as freely as they change their gloves,
and he was always among the "true blues." As
Prime Minister he contributed no novelty in scru-
ples. He was famous for gallantry, for tender-
ness, for sentimental influences.
Mr. Lloyd George, in his new office as Prime
Minister, was the victim of much grumbling from
a great many families, especially Welsh, they be-
ing his native neighbours. He was very clever, a
small lawyer, brought up in an obscure town in
Wales. His sudden rise to a leading political po-
sition in the world is very admirable. His wife is
a typical housewife, and his children are well edu-
cated and very smart in their ways. They are
turning out to be good climbers. Lloyd George in
appearance is a small man, of sturdy physique.
His iron-grey hair is worn in a rather artistic fash-
ion, and he maintains a kindly smile on his lips.
He has an enormous broad forehead. His bosom
friend is Lord Reading, and I used to meet them
often walking through St. James Park on their
way from the House. They seemed very merry
and chatty.
*— 319-
CHAPTER XIX
THE LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE THE WAR
If you want kindness, be kind;
If you want truth, be true.
What you give, you will find;
Your world is a reflex of you.
In poetry one reads the prophetic impulse of the
race. There were no poets to prophesy the future
in that brilliant London season of 1914. No one,
not even those who were in the chronic state of Brit-
ish pessimism, could foresee the disaster that came
upon us in the summer of 1914. Who could con-
ceive, that behind the glory of England's supreme
confidence in herself at this time, the great black
clouds of war were slowly gathering.
The season of 1914 in London began its usual
course of social amusement and grandeur, preced-
ing the Christmas holidays of 1913. The new year
followed close after the jingling bells of Santa
Claus and his reindeers. The church bells of Merrie
England announced the coming of 1914 with a chal-
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LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
lenge of joyousness and prosperity that had no
jangling note in them. In the midst of the merri-
ment at the Christmas house-parties, there was no
thought of war. So the old year was driven out
with uproarious delight, and the new year — 1914 —
came in smiling, confident, unruffled by any thought
of the disaster that came ultimately like a thunder-
bolt in a clear sky.
I don't think London was ever more brilliant and
gorgeous socially. The season of 1914 was the most
wonderful I can remember during all the years I
have lived in London. The opening of Parliament
brought the social leaders to town. The wives of
the members of the Lower and Upper Houses
opened their salons earlier than usual, planning
their entertainments so as to be able to run down to
their country places for the Easter holidays. There
was the usual envy and ambition among the most
brilliant and beautiful women, those who were de-
butantes and those who were newly married, to be
presented at the first Drawing Room of the sea-
son, in February. These Court presentations were
always eagerly looked forward to, for in their train
followed the early dances, concerts, and receptions
of the season. The first Drawing Room at Buck-
ingham Palace initiated the season. Society was
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
flippant, gay and festive, and nobody dreamt of
missing any one of the brilliant entertainments.
The subscriptions for the Opera season at Co-
vent Garden had never been bigger. Every box
was taken, there was not a seat to be had. Your
horseshoe curve at the Metropolitan Opera House
in New York resembles very much, in its fash-
ionable importance, the display of diamonds and
gowns one sees at Covent Garden during the Lon-
don season. As in New York, the London sub-
scribers at the Opera have their notables, their fab-
ulous wealth in diamonds and pearls to display,
their cavaliers, and their bored millionaires. I re-
member a wonderful toilette of turquoise velvet
miroir worn by Lady Weyms, to whom the Mar-
quis de Sovaral was paying homage. Then there
was that wonderful toilette of Lady de Trafford,
of white jet and similes, with the elegant figure of
Lord Vane-Tempest in the background. Then
there was Mrs. Newhouse, with Mrs. Bradley Mar-
tin, in her box, wearing a shell-pink crepe de chine,
with those wonderful pearls, and one, single crim-
son rose.
Among the distinguished women of beauty and
aristocratic lineage whose presence in this horseshoe
curve at Covent Garden is a memory never to be
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LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
forgotten, was the Countess of Ripon, a woman of
wonderful Junoesque figure, with snow-white hair
and with youthful face, which I have noticed is a
feature of some of the most beautiful American
women. Her toilettes were always simple but dis-
tingue. One in particular, I remember, of black
velour chiffon, a princess gown without a vestige of
trimming. The only touch of colour was a Dijon
rose in her corsage. She was really a most com-
manding figure.
Then there was the Countess Massarene and Fer-
rar. She was a tall, graceful woman of the orien-
tal type. She affected daring colours, which suited
her well. She was the Eastern Princess of that
horseshoe curve at Covent Garden.
Another stately woman, whom everybody ad-
mired at the Opera, was Lady Maude Warrender,
the sister of Lord Shaftesbury. I remember how
exquisite she looked in a beautiful gown of a pale
satin miroir shot with yellow and Marechal au
Niel roses. She has become celebrated for her char-
ity and her amiability since the beginning of the
war. She possesses a beautiful soprano voice, and
frequently sings for charitable affairs.
I found it inspiring to look at this coterie of beau-
tiful women, who are the best "turned out" women
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
in English society, because most of their toilettes
emanated from my house. I take no special credit
in this, because it was not difficult to adorn such
beauty.
This season of 1914, in London, was the most
brilliant; it was full of the gladness and joy of
pleasure.
A dominating figure of this London season also
was Mrs. Asquith, the wife of the Prime Minister.
As all the world knows, she is a remarkable woman.
Her love and taste for music made her entertain-
ments much sought after, especially as her daugh-
ter was a very clever, sparkling girl. Mrs. Asquith
was a great favourite of the late Prime Minister,
Mr. Gladstone, and before her marriage, as Miss
Tennant, was one of the social features of London
society. With her sister, the late Lady Riblesdale,
whose husband, Lord Riblesdale, was the Beau
Brummel of the latter part of the reign of Edward
VII, she dominated a certain cultured element of
London society. In this last great social season in
London, of 1914, Mrs. Asquith was decidedly one
of the cleverest women in England. Her daughter,
Miss Elizabeth Asquith, assisted her mother socially
at those delightful receptions of the Prime Min-
ister. They were very largely attended, and it was
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LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
obvious that no party spirit prevailed at them.
There was only a pleasant atmosphere which is
usually inspired by intellect and charm. English
society women have a notorious tact for drawing
the line very sharply between social degrees. Their
talent for this was very obvious at the exclusive
afternoon teas and receptions. They rarely made
a mistake in the mixture of their social "salads," if
one may apply a vegetarian phrase, hence the un-
usual success of English hostesses.
Those afternoon teas, with a little music, and a
great deal of flirtation, were not a bit abated at the
opening of the London season in 1914. As in
New York, the ladies gathered at small tables in
public tea rooms. The biggest crowd could be
seen in London at Rumpelmeiers', and at the
Carl, in. The howling swells howled just as
loudly as they had ever done, and those social sirens,
Lady Sybil Grant, the Countess Crewe and her
step-daughters, added to the gaiety of the scene by
always bringing with them a galaxy of pretty girls.
Lady Sybil Grant was the daughter of Lord Rose-
bery, the granddaughter of the late Duchess of
Cleveland; her mother, nee Rothschild, was one of
the cleverest women of her day, who brought to her
husband, on their marriage, a golden casket con-
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
taining a million pounds. The salon was famous
because of her wit as a hostess and also because of
her staunch conservatism. She was a great admirer
and personal friend of Lord Beaconsfield, the Em-
pire maker.
The Countess Crewe is the second wife of the
Earl of Crewe. She was the elder daughter of
Lord Rosebery. The step -daughters of Countess
Crewe were very pretty and great favourites in
society during this momentous season.
It was in these tea rooms that engagements were
made for the soirees dansantes. Among the most
successful of these events were the soirees dansantes
at the Duchess of Wellington's, who, with her
daughters, made everybody so very comfortable.
Among the other leaders of the season of 1914
were the Duchess of Portland, whose lavish enter-
tainments at Welbeck Abbey were famous, and the
Duchess of Somerset, who encouraged the gilded
youths of London by always having a bevy of the
prettiest debutantes at her dances. The Duchess
of Somerset was among the first of the London hos-
tesses to permit the Turkey-Trot and Tango to be
danced at her house. There were many noble man-
sions where these dances were barred.
The most exclusive parties were those given by
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LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
the Duchess of Devonshire and the Duchess of
Portland.
The Duchess of Portland (nee Dallas Yorke)
was the envy of the women of fashion in London
because she managed, better than other matrons,
to retain her slender, graceful figure. She always
had a very girlish appearance. Her pearls were
famous, and she was always recognisable by her
favourite bunch of Malmaison carnations which
she always wore. She looked every inch a Duchess.
During all the years that she has been a social
leader in London, the Duchess of Portland has re-
tained a singular reputation for exclusiveness, be-
ing absolutely immune of a breath of scandal, to
which English society women have been so justly
or unjustly exposed. Her little daughter is the
image of His Grace the Duke of Portland. She is
petite, dark, dainty. She was very much appre-
ciated socially. Her eldest brother, Lord Tich-
borne, joined the rest of the Englishmen for the
good cause.
Her Grace the Duchess of Devonshire, Mistress
of the Robes to Her Majesty Queen Mary, is the
daughter of that most exclusive and proud aristo-
crat, the Duchess of Buccleuch, who herself was the
late Mistress of the Robes, and the intimate friend
327—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
of her late Majesty Queen Victoria. Her home
was the most distinguished and the most select in
London. Nobody ever entered it whose credentials
or whose history had ever had the slightest stain
upon them. Their receptions were gorgeous, al-
ways royal. Their expenditures for these recep-
tions were fabulous. From their Scotch estate came
such quantities of game and other appetising re-
sources that their Chef de Cuisine retired with a
fortune and opened a hotel for himself in the south
of France. Neither Her Grace the Duchess nor
the Duke could or would dictate to their chef, hence
his personal fortune was made. To-day economy is
practised everywhere, even in this ducal household,
and restrictions are vigorously enforced. They
were ultra conservative, exclusive to a fault.
Westminster House was a magnificent edifice.
The reception and ball rooms were modelled after
the period of Charles II. There was a wonderful
parquet floor, exquisite chandeliers and crystal side-
lights. The illumination of this room was chiefly
with old-fashioned wax candles, which gave it a
peculiar charm. The Duchess of Westminster's
affairs, that is to say, her entertainments and balls,
had the flavour of ultra-modern democracy. One
saw a great deal of physical beauty at them, one
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THE COUNTESS OF WARWICK
The beautiful Countess of Warwick, who was in high favor with the Prince of
Wales. It was the author's privilege to make most of the gowns, the lingerie,
and the robes de unit of this famous court beauty.
LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
heard a great deal of wit, one saw exquisitely
dressed women, and a great deal of parvenu and
get-rich-quicks. The Duchess was very fond of
blue, it was her favourite colour. Her lovely
mother the Duchess of Buccleuch had, socially, been
triumphant, for among her relatives she could boast
of a princess and a duchess. She also had reigned
supreme in that trio of beautiful women whom the
Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) ad-
mired so much. They were Mrs. Cornwallis-West,
Mrs. Langtry, and Mrs. Wheeler. It was an em-
barrassing choice for His Majesty between these
"Three Graces."
The day's work for a society enthusiast never in-
cluded less than two receptions, a tea, and a ball
which lasted until the early morning hours. For
instance, one might go from a ball given by the
Duchess of Westminster to a musicale at Lady M.
Paget's house. It was at Mrs. Paget's home that
one was sure to meet those beautiful American
women, Madame von Andree and her sister, Mrs.
Chauncey Depew, both delightful hostesses.
The Duchess of Marlborough, in her lovely home
in Curzon Street, always presented something novel
in the way of amateur theatricals, and the Marquise
de Hautepool, the great friend of Her Majesty
—329—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Queen Alexandra, was a very distinguished person-
ality. She had quantities of ash-blonde hair, classic
features, a slight, graceful figure, and more im-
maculate toilettes. She dressed in some degree to
copy Her Majesty Queen Alexandra's style, whose
most intimate friend she was and still is. Her
agreeable manners made her very much desired.
Of course, London society would have seemed
dull without the presence of the Countess of War-
wick. Having no suspicion of the terrible disaster
which came upon us towards the end of the season
in London, there was no economy in gowns. The
Countess of Warwick remained, as she always had
been in London society, one of those adorable
women who know how to appear always at their
best. Her toilettes were in the very best of taste,
and as she had carte blanche, there was no reason
why they should not be. She was always so beauti-
ful that she would lend enchantment to the dress-
maker's inspiration. The elder son, Lord Brook,
married a daughter of the beautiful Lady Eden,
whom Whistler made famous. Lady Brook was
almost as beautiful as her mother, slender and sweet
as a mignonette. They have one little boy. Lord
Brook joined the First Life Guards at the begin-
ning of the war. Lady Warwick's daughter, the
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LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAE
Countess of Faversham, quite recently became a
widow, losing her husband, I believe, at Mons.
Those recherche dinners, given by Mrs. Bishops-
heim and her daughter, the Lady Fitzgerald, and
her granddaughter in their sumptuous mansions in
South Audley Street, were very much sought after.
Her house was furnished superbly. She often en-
tertained royalties, for she was a brilliant hostess.
She dressed very sedately but very richly, and,
above all, she knew how to grow old gracefully.
I was busier during this London season of 1914
than I had ever been before. There are few recol-
lections of beautifully gowned women that are any
clearer in my mind than the pretty figure of the
daughter of the Countess of Lytton.
"My daughter's gown for to-night, Madame, it
will be very smart?" the Countess asked me, with
such tremulous eagerness. She was a simple, de-
lightful girl, and the gown I made for her was a
thing of freshness in tulle and snowdrops. It was
most appropriate for the girl's slender blonde
beauty. She looked like a snowdrop.
Madame Melba was the rage of this London sea-
son at the Opera. She scored tremendously in "La
Boheme." Personally, I thought it was unfortunate
that she had acquired the elderly spread of figure,
—331—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
which was unbecoming to Mimi. However, Mel-
ba's success was not marred whatsoever by this
deficiency.
The beautiful Mrs. Stevens-Kent, whose hair,
though almost white, did not detract from the fresh
youthfulness of her face, was a distinguished fig-
ure at the Opera, sitting in her mother-in-law's box,
smothered in diamonds that were like coals. They
were the famous black diamonds from Brazil.
Their gorgeous mansion at Belgrave Square was a
very popular place of entertainment.
Mrs. Clarence Mackay's social gatherings in
Carleton House Terrace were among the famous
events of London society in 1914. Her soirees mu-
sicales always included such famous stars as Ku-
belik, Kreisler, Mischa Elman, Madame Destin,
and others. She always has some great figure in
the musical world of all but priceless value, and
her soirees musicales were a perfect crush. Antici-
pating the great crowds that would fill her room,
she originated a very unique way of keeping them
cool. Huge blocks of ice were cleverly hidden un-
der smilax bushes. There were other features
equally surprising. Little miniature lakes, where
one could play with miniature boats. On one occa-
sion her surprise to society was a water tank with
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LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
real fish, with tackle supplied for the guests to hook
them. Mrs. Clarence Mackay, at this time, was a
singular figure. She usually dressed in faultless
white satin, not a vestige of colour. One rope of
pearls clasped by a huge sapphire, and one black
pearl. She was very oriental looking, and was usu-
ally surrounded by the Indian princes who hap-
pened to be visiting in London. The Maharajah
of Kooch-Behar and the Maharajah Agar-Khan
usually appeared superbly dressed in their na-
tive robes. It is customary for the foreign at-
taches, wearing their brilliant uniforms, to attend
these musicales. Many of the Ambassadors were
also present with their wives. One often saw the
Prince and Princess Lichnowsky, the German
Ambassador and his wife, Monsieur and Madame
La Laing, the Belgian Minister and his wife. These
fetes, given by Mrs. Clarence Mackay in London
in this last year of social splendour, were indeed
very famous.
Mrs. Hope-Vere was among the beautiful women
who were conspicuous during this last season of
London gaiety. Her salons were always filled with
people, and she was famous among her friends for
her skill in choosing the right colours and the most
graceful designs in gowns.
—333—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
The Princes' Skating Club, a private and exclu-
sive skating rink, where only the best society at-
tended, gave Mrs. Hope-Vere her opportunity to
appear in a skating costume that was very attrac-
tive and appropriate. It was a dark bottle-green
Velvet trimmed with skunk fur, with a muff and
stole to match. The Princes' Skating Club was
really one of the features of London society in
1914. To become a member you had to be intro-
duced, then voted upon by ballot, before you could
even be admitted. The result was that the most
wonderful skating costumes were always exhibited
at these gatherings. At tea-time it was impossible
to find a seat in the tea-rooms, unless you had or-
dered a table beforehand.
The Duchess of W could often be seen with
Mr. Gennadius of St. Moritz fame, exhibiting his
wonderful skating evolutions with her.
To those who were familiar with the romances of
high life the graceful figures which these two people
exhibited on the ice were also a demonstration of
a deeper meaning to the heart. Their romance
began in the Tyrolean, now Bavarian Alps, it be-
gan on the very peak of the snow-capped moun-
tains of Pontrasina at St. Moritz. Who has not
inhaled the pure air amidst these scenes of snow-
—334—
LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
white purity? The leitmotif of this exuberant ro-
mance was the Alpine simplicity and grandeur.
Of course it was exhilarating, and the romance en-
twined itself about the hearts of the Duchess and
the exhibition skater with binding vows that were
never broken. Any one who visited the Tyrol coun-
try in the winter, will remember how fascinating
those snow-capped nooks and corners are, where
the little lichen-trees are almost entirely buried un-
der the snow. It is a place where the tragedies and
comedies, and perhaps burlesques, of love play
havoc with men and women regardless of social
position. That is how these two drifted into a
lovely dream, and were rudely awakened by the
great monster — scandal. It requires a sovereign to
pour oil upon the troubled waters of this clandes-
tine affair in an otherwise placid household. The
Duke and Duchess parted. The Duchess has be-
come a Sister of Charity, for the good of the cause.
It is also interesting, while dwelling upon the
brilliancy of this last London season, to record the
popularity of the officers of the Crack Regiments
in London then. The officers of the Second Life
Guards, the Blues, the Seventh and Twelfth Hus-
sars, were especially sought after. They were very
good fellows, although very often they preferred
—335—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
sitting out a dance, either on the grand staircase or
in the conservatory, where they indulged in a little
love-making, a little wit, where they became en-
gaged to the prettiest girls of the season, who, of
course, did not dream that their stalwart, handsome
husbands would be called to fight other battles than
those of love.
I recall the mysterious effect upon the gaiety of
the crowds, of the first rumours of war in Lon-
don, toward the end of the season of 1914. How
easily they were swayed from pillar to post. Of
course, many people took advantage of the stock
market, while the turmoil in London grew louder.
Suddenly, one day, the streets were full of people,
whispering. One saw the recruiting sergeants, pa-
rading up and down the principal thoroughfares.
The public houses were crowded to suffocation, and
the music halls were ringing with patriotic songs.
Every one was shouting "On to Berlin."
Such songs as "Sister Susie's Sewing Shirts for
Soldiers" filled the air. Knitting needles were in
every woman's hands. All London became ab-
sorbed in making socks, shawls, mufflers, for
"Tommy Atkins." The Clubs were besieged with
inquiries. All who were not English by birth went
panic-stricken to the Home Office to obtain pass-
—336—
LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
ports. For two weeks there was a universal cor-
diality from the British authorities towards those
who wanted to return. I, myself, desired to be
naturalised, and with my lawyers waited hours un-
til my turn came to make my application. Univer-
sal courtesy was shown me by officers and well-
meaning police officers, who handed me my papers
to sign, adjusted many photographs of me to the
papers, and then hoped, as did thousands of other
people, that all would be well.
Everything had been moving along gaily and
charmingly in England, up to this time. Even the
murmurs and whisperings of July, 1914, had not
reached the people. Those who were behind the
scenes, and saw the huge war clouds rolling up,
wisely concluded that silence is golden.
When the shell exploded, and its tremendous
noise shattered the European foundations, business
became immediately at a standstill. The morato-
rium was declared, and many people gladly accept-
ed the opportunity to escape their debts. Then fol-
lowed the Emergency Act, and slackers in pay-
ment under normal conditions felt very much re-
lieved of their debts pro tern.
It was in the face of this crisis that the aristo-
—337—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
cratic world of London took the initiative so splen-
didly.
So many women, prominent in London society,
changed the whole course of their social lives at the
outbreak of the war.
Lady Horlick at once sent a dozen automobiles
to the Front for ambulance service, including her
own. The Duchess of Westminster was one of the
first English women who went to the Front to
nurse the soldiers. Lady Fitz-Ponsonby crossed
the Channel at once to distribute food and give first
aid. Lady de Trafford entered the hospital to
study nursing, and served at the Red Cross.
Lady Ermyntrude Malet opened her magnificent
home in London to the convalescent. Lady Water-
loo became a Red Cross nurse. Mrs. Dale-Lace
took a course in nursing at St. Thomas's Hospital.
Lady St. Maur and Lady Brassey, the Duchess
of Somerset, the Duchess of Norfolk, all loaned
their mansions to the wounded. Lady Talbot,
Countess Fitzwilliam, the Duchess of Newcastle, —
there were hundreds of these distinguished society
leaders who adapted themselves to menial work in
the hospitals. No work was too hard for them —
they spared neither money nor pains to relieve the
sufferings of their unfortunate heroes. It is a great
—338—
LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
testimony to the character of these society women,
that they made these magnificent sacrifices to help
and encourage "Tommy Atkins."
Tea parties became veritable sewing-bees. After
the declaration of war in August, 1914, sewing and
knitting were the only occupation known to society.
A central office was established in London, where
bedding and clothing could be sent, to be forwarded
to the front. I, among others, of course, sent quan-
tities of blankets and sheets, and made hundreds of
woollen shirts for the soldiers, until one morning I
was physically and mentally shocked by a request
to leave England. My maid brought up my break-
fast to my bedroom, and on the tray I saw a formid-
able-looking envelope from the Home Office. I de-
bated whether I should open it before breakfast or
not. Curiosity made me waver. I broke the seal,
and as I read and re-read the formal communica-
tion, I became speechless. My tears blinded me
as I read the polite and very courteous request to
leave England within ten days. The British Gov-
ernment also generously contributed for my depar-
ture a capital of ten pounds. I went, myself, and
secured an eminent firm of solicitors to intercede
for me with Sir John Simonds, who was then
Home Secretary. The result was that I was per-
—339—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
mitted three weeks in which to prepare for my de-
parture, to take with me what I could gather before
I became expatriated. So I had to leave the land
where I had lived for forty-three years as a loyal
and devoted subject, the land I hope to end my days
in when hostilities are over.
My experience was probably little different from
thousands of others whom the British Government
helped because their alien connections might be in-
imical to the welfare of Great Britain.
In my despair and distress I addressed Her Maj-
esty, Queen Mary, hoping that it could be possible
for the Queen of England to intercede in my be-
half. Her Majesty replied, with her usual gra-
ciousness and kindness of heart, that she would
be unable to assist me.
All London by this time became the centre of
patriotic England. The beautiful women whom
I have gowned and whose fetes I had attended, for-
got all about dressmaking and clothes. Elabo-
rate entertainments were immediately started to
gather funds to take care of those poor people whose
men were ordered to the Front, and were conse-
quently left dependent upon some form of accept-
able charity.
The Duchess of Rutland, Lady Diana Manners,
—340—
LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
and Lady Beerbohm-Tree were especially active in
instituting wonderful entertainments to gather
funds for this purpose. My own observation was
that the poor were literally overwhelmed with good
things. One woman, who lived near my residence,
informed me that she had never had so much money
in her life before, nor so much freedom to use it.
This may have been because her man was at the
Front. My grocer told me that expensive dainties
were now purchased almost exclusively by coach-
men and chauffeurs.
While the aristocratic quarters of London were
economising England was greatly aroused by the
Belgian disaster. This demonstration seemed to
touch the hearts of the middle class, seemed to im-
press them with a sense of their moral obligation
to support their own poor. I know of many cases
where well-to-do families took the deserving poor
into their own homes and gave them the most hu-
mane and charitable care. I know of cases where
aristocratic mansions with their entire retinue of
servants were put at the disposal of the homeless
exiled from Belgium. English charity is pro-
verbial. There is no country in the world sup-
porting so many hospitals and institutions by volun-
tary contributions as England, and yet there are
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LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
no greater contrasts of misery and great wealth
than one finds in Great Britain.
Almost as soon as the war broke out, the society
beauties of London became absorbed in charitable
work.
I recall Lady Hesquith, an American beauty, as
among those who were especially active. Her re-
ceptions before the war had been very distinguished.
Lady Stewart-Richardson, whose dancing excited
New York society a short while ago, symbolised her
feeling of "sack cloth and ashes" by adopting the
oriental dress of the Hindoos for every-day life.
She wore sandals in the streets of London, and her
veils were so adjusted that one could hardly see her
eyes.
Among the last brilliant entertainments given
on the eve of the war in London, were those at The
Mansion House, where Lady Wakefield and the
Lord Mayor of London dispensed hospitality.
Every one talked about them. Lady Wakefield
dressed superbly. She is a majestic-looking woman.
I recall how exquisite she looked in a gown of real
lace most beautifully draped. The train was of
rich white Duchess satin, it was of great length and
was carried by Maids of Honour dressed in pink
taffeta. The cortege was beautiful in the extreme.
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LAST LONDON SEASON BEFORE WAR
The Mansion House itself is a revelation of beauty.
The grand reception room, with the portraits of
former great city magnates, is very impressive.
I expect that in this room, some day, not far dis-
tant, there will be a more impressive gathering,
when the industrial disaster of war will be adjusted.
—343—
CHAPTER XX
MY LAST DAYS IN LONDON
The disaster crept upon London so gently as to
be scarcely taken as a threat to the social gaieties.
Of course, we women had been told how fortifica-
tions were being rebuilt, and many other details
which pointed to a certain unrest in national life.
Finally all eyes were obliged to see that England
was embroiled in a fighting campaign, brought
about I should say by the factions of different opin-
ions.
The first real expression of war came to pass
when we saw troops marching through the streets,
who were being called out for service. Of course,
there was a prevailing spirit of optimism, but at
the dinner parties there was a forced merriment
that did not entirely escape notice. In the midst
of the most riotous jests, extraordinary rumours
reached us. There was a good deal of criticism, for
it is impossible for English people to believe that
their idea of invulnerable national strength could
—344—
MY LAST DAYS IN LONDON
be in danger. The Ministers maintained a de-
meanour of smiling confidence towards all ques-
tions, and it was declared that no possible attack
could be made without warning to the thousands
who might be in danger. Then, one night, mysteri-
ous convoys went to and fro, and desperate efforts
were made to hide their movements.
Then the last scene of the tragedy came. Those
who knew most of the real situation were very
chary of suggestions. The quick movement of
events was fearfully foreshadowed in the grim hap-
penings of that first day of war. We were in the
city most of the day, and saw the excitement and
courage in spite of it. Suddenly flags appeared in
all squares, on the roofs of houses, on the walls.
Great crowds gathered in the streets, everybody
gesticulating, and it seemed as though every one
was shouting, "To Berlin."
What a riot it really was. Perfect strangers
meeting and embracing each other, men grasping
each other by the hand in mutual congratulation.
All the public buildings were besieged. It was a
tremulous, inspiring excitement, which conveyed to
you the spirit of the English people. Above the
noise and shouts of the crowds one heard the sharp,
penetrating command of trumpets in the streets.
—345—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
The military bands of the different regiments
seemed to be constantly coming and going. It was
evident that no one would possibly intervene to
reason with this national upheaval, it was also clear
that there were no cowards. When the soldiers of
different garrisons were notified to be ready, they
rushed pell-mell to their places, fearing more to re-
linquish them than to take them.* There was no pre-
tentiousness or self-importance among the generals
and officers who were called to duty. Every one
sought only to become a servant of His Majesty
George V of England, to protect his realm, and to
achieve a glorious victory.
Colossal sums were at once demanded of Parlia-
ment by Premier Asquith, which were voted, and
became huge loans. No one seemed to think of
those who might be left behind, of the sorrowing.
The retinue of the court became more gorgeous
than ever, and music, especially military bands, was
heard everywhere. There were, of course, the usual
ambitious cymes who pacified the peevish people,
and the Palace itself was constantly surrounded by
a curious crowd. Much was expected of that great
organiser, Lord Kitchener, who made plans to regu-
late every item of expenditure in the forthcoming
—346—
MY LAST DAYS IN LONDON
cataclysm. So, with varied feelings England waited
for the hour to strike.
I was impressed with a fact that the chief sup-
port of those who deplored the national war spirit,
was the familiar encouragement of the words, " En-
tente Cordiale." Of course, Parliament made much
of this quality, and hastened the progress of this
alliance amid scenes and ceremonies that were very
impressive.
Kitchener was really the chief intellectual power
of England's war plan. In doing this he steered a
dangerous course over quicksands which threatened
his personal safety. He had a highly strung tem-
perament, and an intellect which saw much trickery
around him, and which he was alert in combating.
The work which he accomplished for England, I
fear was out of focus with the times. His opportu-
nities to regulate the forces of France were too
short, and therefore he was unable to make the pub-
lic see the future in clear equilibrium.
In London society, the gossips found a great
field for their favourite occupation, although the
war spirit had burst the bubble of folly and volup-
tuousness in which they had thrived. There were
women in society whom it was foreseen would be a
baleful force, but the country insisted that they
—347—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
serve. Many of them, in doing this, had to aban-
don their amours with great men. Of course, there
were great quantities of patriotic English women,
who eagerly seized the opportunity to demonstrate
their mettle, to throw down the gauntlet in de-
fiance of feminine tradition, to put on, as it were,
the mailed fist and to do their bit. Love, of course,
had to take a back seat. I mean, of course, love as
a pastime. Knowing a good deal of the inner com-
plications of English society, it was obvious that
love's tyranny was vanishing. There could be no
more slavery of feeling. The women shook off the
yoke of idle flirtation, and the men accepted the
new order of things.
Every day brought new changes, but the bal-
ance in power of the future was hidden in the low,
black clouds of war. Of course, royalty did not
leave town. All sorts of sensational stories were
circulated, and promptly contradicted, and all the
while the crowds grew more dense in the streets.
Finally the Palace was completely surrounded by
mounted police. Great services were held in St.
Paul's Cathedral, during these days preceding the
war in London, at which the royal family attended.
It seemed as though the religious element of Eng-
—348—
MY LAST DAYS IN LONDON
land was making an appeal to the Divine Power to
grant peace to Europe.
The sight of the Crack Cavalry Regiments rid-
ing through the streets, which was once an incident
of gaiety, made us all feel sad. Crowds of men and
women of all classes followed the soldiers about.
The chief impression to me of all this entanglement
of feeling was that the powers of Lloyd George
were manifest everywhere. With all the strength
of his oratory and his eager temperament, he
wanted above all things the glory of England. He
demanded that the English Navy demonstrate the
triumph of Great Britain's sea power.
Across the Channel, the chief sentiment of
France seemed to be to regain the dominion of
Alsace and Lorraine, including the greater part of
the Rhenish country, through which they hoped to
enter Germany. This was the plan talked of and
anticipated successfully, not by temporary invasion,
but by an orderly and skillful campaign.
Actually, however, there were no conditions in
London itself, which expressed any fear either of
food shortage or enemy attack. The ladies still
danced in magnificent ballrooms — especially the
new dances, those impetuous, ardent, swinging fig-
ures, and then to supper with plenty of champagne.
—349—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Neither politics nor war interfered much with the
Music Halls, or the Movies. Some performances
rose above the question of literary merit, but other
performances were condemned as morally objec-
tionable, because they contained allusions to the
war conditions which the public did not appreciate.
Of course, great entertainments were planned
for charity, in which society women were pledged
to appear in extraordinary exhibitions. I recall a
couple of singers, Delicia and Morton, who were
appearing in an obscure cafe in London, were re-
tained by a celebrated Duchess to teach her a very
spicy and suggestive duet, in which she was to ap-
pear at a great charity affair for the wives and chil-
dren of the maimed and wounded defenders of the
country. I can give no idea of the enormous
amount of charity that was set in motion, and the
enormous sums that were raised in the name of
charity.
Regretfully I must admit that there were a good
many so-called society people who hailed war with
Germany with intense delight, for the commercial
rivalry of England had for many years been an an-
noyance to them. There were others in England,
however, who at this period in the evolution of war,
insisted that they were meeting a valiant foe, that
—350—
MY LAST DAYS IN LONDON
the task of conquering Germany would be a hard
and severe strain for the country. The feeling
against the enemy, however, was obvious. The
ladies were more positive in its expression than the
men.
German maids were dismissed. I knew of one
lady who sent away her German maid who had been
with her over twenty years, who nursed her through
a difficult illness, — in twenty-four hours' notice.
Life in London became a perpetual caldron of
boiling hatred. It would simmer down, only to
shoot up with a more bubbling hatred, with over-
whelming heat.
With other women in London, I made thousands
of shirts for the soldiers.
The women of England became a powerful al-
lied force for conscription, in spite of bitter tears
they wept for the lovers they lost. Still, they were
resolved to tread the future path of life with an in-
dependence of will that surpassed the expectations.
I noticed a great change came over these lovely
girls, when they had to learn by experience many
unknown things. They were vivacious, proud, en-
terprising, potential Amazons, well fitted to hold
the lance, the revolver, the gun. They really showed
remarkable courage, the courage of men, which is
—351—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
very rarely found in women. They became utterly
regardless of the opinions of others. Some of these
women who had been leaders in the spice of fashion,
told me that after serious reflection, they came to
the conclusion that the soul should not be suscep-
tible to love. For this reason, they declared they
wanted to go to war. They were brave and gen-
erous, they had the manner and the inclinations of
men.
Of course all business was suspended, the streets
were full of excited people, the shop-keepers stood
on their doorsteps. The parliamentary orators
talked brilliantly and terribfy, while the British na-
tion listened patiently and enthusiastically. Finally
everything settled down to a universal spirit of pa-
triotism, and life became more tolerable in London.
Amateur musical entertainments at the fashion-
able houses in London for charitable purposes, con-
stituted a great attraction.
And now, how fare these ladies, these society but-
terflies, these arbiters of fashion, these social lead-
ers, what are their thoughts ? Outwardly, they dem-
onstrated a furious and agitated movement to be-
come nurses, sisters of charity, motor-car drivers,
anything and everything to help to aspire to the
new feminine diversion, of being warriors. In a
—352—
MY LAST DAYS IN LONDON
measure, they have all become heroines, Spartans.
The spoiled children of society found themselves
mingling promiscuously with shop-girls, actresses,
upper-servants. Preferably these society women
chose the open-air hospitals, and the Tommies have
been enjoying the sensation of being nursed by
women of the English aristocracy.
I saw Mrs. E. H. start from London for the
front with twelve motor ambulances, driving one
herself. With her was Lady de Trafford and the
Duchess of Westminster. They rushed madly to
Boulogne and Calais to give their personal aid, and
indeed it was a tussle between them as to who should
arrive first. Of course, everything was done at
their personal expenditure. Every one was buying
calico and lint. Every one was learning how to
make bandages of medicated wool, how to apply
anaesthetics, how to manipulate first aid. This was
work which the ambulance corps started at once.
The beautiful houses along St. James Park, oppo-
site Carleton House Terrace, were turned into new
convalescent homes. Even the balconies were con-
verted into open-air wards. When I went into a
famous shop I saw the ladies of the court purchas-
ing cottons and haberdashery. There was Lady
—353—
LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES
Eva Dugdale, Lady Henry Somerset, conducting
shopping expeditions for the wounded.
I confess that I felt desolate and wretched to
find myself excluded from the land of my adoption,
although it has brought me to this beautiful coun-
try, where I have met the delightful and gracious
Americans and have become a welcome stranger.
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