. oy^ Stories ouvtJBeauties &ranzisca f Baroness YbntfCedemann // r" >l / Krz&J-M. ey,„„.>y /c\''7/Cl. //,ys.,/y ^f//Y/?'J>W,'./Yf //'//'<■ 70/ ,.j ,,/„// .>,,,„ /,//,• -yMs- .-J'-/*/ o/"/"/'ff/a//> / f . rStf/ ., ////y/.i /y fr ■> //if /am* /c«w. J ////.J //////// //f~s.> ,>/>"//y //, t*4 ti"/ frr/ / -n /'"• — ^ "t f /' . ■ ytsAir „?*>i/~ .fi ■ yy, /,//>'> a /-a "y /'iijr.f/ CSSI'/'// ■ j,,t SAJ&J^Ai '/">/ tyS jl^AaJL, /Pit' /HvC, £i>/rf ffiz/j/iirr/iu/t fo QvsfK Altjiim/rii CERTIFICATE GRANTED BY QUEEN ALEXANDRA Her gracious Majesty Queen Alexandra's appointment was bestowed upon the author in appreciation of the author's great endeavor to please the beautiful Queen and meet her exquisite taste in gowning exclusively. INTRODUCTION women. She was the guiding star in the brilliant career which King Edward VII pursued among the beauties of his period. As the years fastened upon them both, she still remained a favourite advisor in his international diplomacy, and after his mar- riage she became the confidential friend of Queen Alexandra, from the time she entered London as a bride. Queen Alexandra was the most beautiful per- sonification of everything that is perfect in woman, and I say this with a personal knowledge of this wonderful woman and exquisite Queen. She was one of the beautiful daughters of the King of Den- mark. She was modestly brought up, quietly edu- cated. When the Prince of Wales first met her at the Court of Hessen in Darmstadt, he was over- powered by her modesty, her simplicity, and her beauty. From the time she entered London and received that marvellous ovation, until to-day, she has retained the love of the English people and their admiration. The grace of her demeanour, her glorious figure, her gracious manners, her unfail- ing courtesy, and her wonderful taste in clothes, through which she became the best dressed woman in Europe, had made her the favourite Queen of all Europe. — xxvii — INTRODUCTION No breath of scandal has ever reached the world about her, but there lurks in the heart of Alexan- dra a secret romance. One glorious thought dwells in her mind of a man who suddenly became one of the accomplished officers in the Egyptian war. He was a great friend of her favourite son, the late Duke of Clarence. He worshipped on her shrine till he died, and when he was called away in com- parative youth, Her Majesty Alexandra never quite got over the shock. It was after his death that she always bore that little atmosphere of deep sor- row in her eyes, of deep grief in her heart. There is an altar in her heart where she worships that adoration of her youth in secret. She recalls those happy times when in a little canoe they glided up and down the beautiful river canopied by the weep- ing willows, in the shadow of those sublime old oaks in Windsor Forest, bathed in the moonlight of those evenings of supreme happiness. It was an idyl, and I believe that Her Majesty always dwelt upon this beautiful romance with a sad but glorious satisfac- tion that to the pure all is pure. Her life has been one of continuous charity for others. She has a wonderful propensity for gowning herself; she is imbibed with that wonderful sense of rhythm and symphony in colour. Her harmonious combination — xxviii — INTRODUCTION of the ultra smart and yet distinguished toilettes was always a creation of her own, given to her dress- maker. Every woman at the Court of St. James was ambitious to imitate her effect in gowns. I believe that in her saddest moment she never for- got outward appearances, which is a graceful virtue all women will do well to cultivate. The relationship of royalty between Germany and England extended in so many directions over Europe, and by such diplomatic matrimonial direc- tions as Queen Victoria herself planned, that it would seem as though a deliberate purpose to es- tablish universal peace in Europe was actually the hope of the wise Queen of England. By her tact and guidance these relationships in the royalty of Europe were extended. They included the won- derful relationship of the House of Coburg-Gotha, of the Wittellsbach, of the Hessians. In fact, it extended to Roumania, Bulgaria, Greece, Denmark and Russia. Who would have believed that the twentieth century would become an abyss where all sentiment has been unavoidably drowned, swal- lowed up in the horror of war? The Princess Royal, the eldest daughter of Queen Victoria, who married German royalty, inherited the tendency of her mother for jealousy. There — xxix — INTRODUCTION are many stories told confirming this fact. It is said that when she lived at the palace in Berlin during the first year of her marriage, she ran out of the palace one night, hatless, a short distance across the palace grounds, to complain to her mother-in-law, the Kaiserin Augusta, that she had just seen a wonderful parure of jewels which was being sent to the greatest prima donna of her time by her royal and beloved husband. It is said that the Kaiserin Augusta told her that such little things occurred so often in the sphere of royalty, she must become accustomed to them. The English princess went back to her palace home, still crying, but more reconciled to the fact that all men are untrust- worthy. This may have been a crisis in her per- ception of royal privileges, for her after life was a most happy one. I remember vividly the day when the present Kaiser was born. I was only a little girl and be- longed to one of the church choirs which Her Royal Highness patronised. I can see her now with the Kaiser entering the salon where we children stood waiting for them. I can see her showing us the war lord looking like a baby cherub in her arms. The royal parents were just as proud as any other ordinary parents, and especially one felt how won- — xxx — '*^g^ /fladasmc -Au//r'uc sy /„ /,,/,/ //,., ■ /// ys// //f///y//// ■ / /,< c // . .Jf //■//// f/,t .t/ff/// .)/f /// /f/ //■ f/t" -/s S*/ ' /t¥/S/t ////// f///f f'fSSfSj 7 ' SMt.t '/?/ fr'rt /// r.> .,/„,//.,/„,.„.„„/ .,„./ ,., /, /, „ /, './ ,,. //„ ,,,„/,/ .,„,, .'..,..,. ,../,„., /./.. //.. . '.,.,. /,..,„ r /.„// .7,:/,,. „.. ,./ .; ..//..,,.,„.„ „,../....,. / „./ ■'"// " ■ ' (' Venus rising from her bath in draperies of trailing loam. Her bath itself was a revela- tion, [nstead of the usual pool, there was a font or huge vase of clearest crystal hound with copper, studded wiih turquoise. The water which poured from this font was perfumed, and in this huge vase Of perfumed Water the Princess would sit Cor hours, while in three corners around her weir j^'old chal- ices also sel. with turquoise in which burned in- censes of India. 'There were a succession of baths, Turkish, Russian and others, or course, I was overcome with the magnificence of her surround- ings. Although it was real, I had to pinch myself to be Convinced thai the Princess, when she ad- dressed me in Polish, was really 8 modern human beiiiLT. Her manner was very autocratic. "(), (bar," she said, "please call my valet and my maid." 1 was told it was her custom to receive the mem- bers o\' the diplomatic Corps in Paris, the celebrated —58— COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE Bohemians, the artists of France, in a similar diaphanous gown. My conversation with her was confined, however, to the burning question of the day,— -the Princess' new gowns. It is interesting to recall what we decided upon. One dress was of scarlet Lyons velvet, trimmed with chinchilla, and a cloak to match. This was an afternoon dress. Another was an evening gown of Duchess satin, embroidered with jet and gold intermingled with pearls, and trimmed with marten fur tails. Her mantle was of Peruvian chinchilla trimmed with Russian ermine. She sleeps,- forgiven let us hope, — this modern Aspasia and Magdalen. I [er house is now a dress- maker's establishment, being transferred from a temple of love to a temple of fashion. Kmil Zola's novel of 'Nana" may be almost for- gotten to-day, but in its lime it was a very faithful picture of one of the beauties of the Second Em- pire. I knew this beautiful woman who was the original inspiration of the great French author for this character. She was very graceful, tall, blonde, by name Blanche I'Oeil Crcvce. She was tremendously admired, so much so that she had very little time for her art, because she was such a vogue. She understood the joy of living as Pari- —59— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES sians understood it then. The dinner parties she gave at the Cafe Anglais, surrounded by men who laid their fortunes, but not their names, at her feet, were celebrated. She did not seem to care much for their names, or for themselves for that matter, as long as she could sup, and dine, and dress. She was a goddess of pleasure, and her life was one perpetual round of emotion. She flashed upon the life of Paris like a comet, and like a comet she went. Zola alone immortalised her idealism. It was at this period that Teresa, the woman with the man's voice, the most famous contralto of her time, puzzled me very much as a dressmaker. Her favourite colours were pale blue and green, and she always wanted the richest satins if possible. Her decolletage was outrageous, but she was a great Alcazar favourite in Paris. I think she still lives the simple life, on a chicken farm. From the sub- lime to the ridiculous is only a step. Teresa was, as one great artist described her to me, the most fascinating, but the most intensely vulgar person- ality, of the French stage. She was as celebrated and popular in Paris as Nellie Farren was in Lon- don. She was of a type of stage beauty who led the —60— COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE young, unsophisticated aristocracy to worship at her shrine, without fear, but with many reproaches. The Due D'Aumale was an enormous admirer of hers, and the little cafe near St. Cloud was an ador- able retreat. Who will forget that delightful mimic, Judic, who startled Paris in her famous bathing costume, escorted by the jovial Baron, as her bathing -mas- ter. She was unique in her toilettes, which were indeed very daring, and yet never crude or vulgar. Judic began as a variety singer at the Eldorado; suddenly she blossomed forth one day as a prima donna in opera at the Theatre Varietee on the Boulevard de Montmartre. She sang very well, but her vivacity, and her more than decollete songs, created an immense furore. Judic was dark, of the Oriental type, inclined to be stout. She wore skirts as short as possible, inviting the crowd to "come and see more of me." Most of the French actresses aped the style and manners of the grandes dames. This was cleverly satirised in one of Offenbach's opera bouffes called "La Vie Parisienne." But, Paris in 1867 outrivalled every other city in the world, in pleasure, in wit, in toilettes. A bal masque given at the Grand Opera House —61— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES in Paris just before the war of 1870, was the final whirl of this maddening Paris before the shadows settled over her. I remember a famous Russian Grand Duchess who appeared in the costume of "Sappho." When it came time for her to leave her box, which had been continually surrounded by a curious crowd, it was necessary to call the police to make room for her to pass out, — to allow Venus to go home. These recollections of Paris at this time are so full of interesting people and events, that we were obliged to run away from it to recuperate. So, the winter of 1868 found myself and my hus- band installed in a villa at Monte Carlo, the para- dise or inferno of Europe, whichever you care to make it. It was at Monte Carlo I met the beautiful American girl, Fanny Lear. Her affair with an Imperial Grand Duke was an international scan- dal. The superb pearls, rubies and sapphires which were showered upon her by the Grand Duke, were discovered afterwards to be the personal jew- els of his royal mother, for which little lapse of eti- quette he was exiled from the Czar's domain for a long time. The Grand Duke's influence evidently left its impression upon Fanny Lear after their —62— BARONESS DE RAMELM AND HER DAUGHTERS AT THE SWEDISH EMBASSY The Swedish ladies of the Court, Countess Lewenhaupt and the Baroness de Ramelm, charming, modest ladies, gowned in perfect taste, who accom- plished a renovation in social matters in England. COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE separation, for her gowns were always purely Rus- sian in style, heavily trimmed with jewels and em- broidery, which greatly enriched her peculiar Ori- ental beauty. I am not sure whether originally she came from Philadelphia or from one of those charming cities in the Southern states. She had beautiful eyes, glorious hair of a nut-brown shade, and teeth like pearls, but when showing them in a ravishing smile, one saw a rather cruel and cynical mouth. She was intelligent far above the average. Our conversation, which usually began on the ab- sorbing topic of woman's gowns, drifted along to beauty, poetry, wit, till it was time to say "good night." I remember meeting her at a grand recep- tion given by one of our celebrated actresses, in a gown that no one could ever forget. It was an opal-coloured royal satin, profoundly trimmed with Borano lace, a corsage covered with real opals, and strings of black pearls, to complete this ravishing toilette. Her cloak was a regal wrap of Russian sable, entirely trimmed with rose miroire velvet. Sumptuous in every way were these women of the last century, and they did not seem to care whether it was their own money or some one else's. It was the age of vampires in a measure, and many of them, alas, finished badly. ^-63— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES In Paris we met, one evening at supper, that wonderful artiste,, Princess Marie Eristoff , Mounet Sully and the Prince, and many other celebrities. The Princess took a fancy to me, and made quite a lovely crayon drawing of me. She was wonder- fully quick, and in three hours I took this spon- taneous memento back to my hotel. She was ex- tremely lovely, with ashen blonde hair, and very slender, eyes like chameleon, always changing, a voice like a rippling fall of water, perfectly modu- lated and a trifle sad. In after years we met by chance through a mutual acquaintance, a Brazilian beauty, Parola de Paranguay, and so renewed an old friendship. Princess Marie Eristoff came to London and painted my portrait life size. Every one who saw it pronounced it a perfect likeness al- though perhaps it is a little idealistic and futuris- tique in influence. She exhibited it at the Waldorf with some others of her works, portraits of Prince George of Servia, Sacha Votischenkow, the great Russian Tymphan artist, a Russian dancer, and others. I hear she is now in great demand, and is painting the portraits of many of the brothers, sons and sweethearts, in khaki, for those loved ones left behind, and that most of her fees are turned over at once to charity, which is like her generous heart. —64— COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE Her atelier in Paris was often filled with Russian grand dukes and duchesses from the embassy, who like the flavour of Bohemia. And we used to drink coffee from an earthen Roman pitcher, and eat black bread with butter from a broken earthenware saucer. Spellbound we would listen to the weird music of the Tymphan, and one of her favourites, that Sacha was often called upon to play, was an imaginary storm on the Volga. Sacha, too, is now in this country, and only before his departure from England he had the honour of playing before Queen Alexandra, Grand Duchess Marie and the Prin- cess Victoria. When I recall the days of these fa- mous men and women, notorious perhaps too often, one wonders that the twentieth century is so void of all these perpetual, piquant incidents. We have progressed indeed, but have we perhaps not dete- riorated, too, in some things. The enchantress of the Second Empire was, in a primitive sense, less regardless than the modern "flapper," who so mysteriously defies us. The Court romances of the Second Empire were dis- tinctly more humane and graceful than those of a later Court, across the sea from France. Napoleon III had a streak of vulgarity, a taint of the cad in him. It often happens that men who —65— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES are able in warfare and diplomacy, in their dealings with women are unpardonable. He lacked the gift of reticence towards his affairs with women. Nothing could have been more disreputable than the sordid and cruel delight in the tone with which he discusses his opportunities of escape from serious responsibilities with Madame R , a lady of his Court. She had been persona grata with the Im- perial family, the confidante of the Empress, and the victim of all the grievances that Her Imperial Majesty could imagine. Sometimes the ladies of the Court of the Second Empire pursued a thought of unavoidable feeling of justice towards the beau- tiful Empress Eugenie. That is to say, they ac- cepted the presents of the Emperor Napoleon, and kept faith in vital things with the Empress. The story is told of the famous Madame de P , who was greatly admired by the Emperor, that she was invited by him to the Tuileries Palace to inspect the royal apartment. When the Em- peror led her to the bedroom of the Empress, she turned to His Imperial Majesty and gracefully disarmed him. "I cannot admire fully," she said, "the exquisite conveniences of this room in the absence of Her Majesty, the chief ornament." —66— COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE Napoleon had no adequate reply to such adroit- ness, and so he sent a gentleman to the Empress, requesting her to come at once and acknowledge her indebtedness to Madame de P . That was Napoleon III in his best romantic mood. It was not always the attitude of Madame de P., however. She managed to amass many val- uable jewels, and to hide them from her husband. Napoleon's attraction towards her was not irresisti- ble, because he had little personal charm, but Ma- dame de P. could not be entirely blind to the mate- rial advantages gained by an affair with the Em- peror. It is recorded that she gave her affection and fidelity to her Imperial mistress, the Empress. As a woman, inevitably subject to flattery, Ma- dame de P. was no doubt pleased by the romantic homage of Napoleon. The heart of the Empress Eugenie was no doubt disturbed with bitterness that comes to the woman who is childless, her ambi- tion also may have inspired her with a desire for an heir apparent. These are merely observations of analysis, without actual fact in history. Commen- tators of her time accused her of being lethargic, others believed that she was unwilling. No one has solved the mystery of how she spent her quiet moments. —67— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES Strive as we will, to study the inner character of the Empress Eugenie from the many portraits, we cannot decide whether she was happy or unhappy. Those portraits of her, made in the earlier years of her reign, give a very benign expression. There is a great change in those portraits taken of her dur- ing the years when she was in her zenith, when the obsessions of power had brought a slight cynical weariness, to mark her features. Were the eyes of the Empress cynical ? In these portraits of her fa- mous years, they are full and open, looking with an air of tolerable candour on the world, yet with an expression in her elevated eyebrows, of question. In the later portraits, owing perhaps to the fashion of the sidelong, averted gaze and exaggerated roug- ing, to the portrait painter's custom of giving beau- tiful women the delicate, tapering hands, we must perhaps allow for the artistic convention of the pe- riod, yet, these portraits speak clearly for the nerv- ous refinement of this wonderful woman. She moved amidst the dramatis personce in- scrutably. She was especially inscrutable to the unscrupulous politician, that genius, that pictur- esque personality, streaked with facts which one encounters in human nature as one does in geologi- cal formations. Those who feared her hated her, —68— COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE and their hatred, bred of common minds, was a greater homage to her than their love. She was always hopeful of any episode which might provide a clue to some new intrigue of the court. She was complex, ardent, facing the future with some defi- nite plan that she did not declare. The satirical wits of the Court, unable to pene- trate her motive, described her as an emotional lob- ster salad. There were many in the Court of the Second Empire, however, with fine personalities, who, like Her Imperial Majesty, moved untouched amid the evil of that Empire. Napoleon's amours were treated with mild, yet jealous intolerance by his consort. Mild, chiefly because, though these epi- sodes were picturesquely brilliant, they were hol- low. The Princess Pauline Metternich retained her beauty and her wit after sixty years of coquetry and social reign. She was not so beautiful but she was sprightly, gay, full of character and electric charm. The Princess de S. was really beautiful, with her fair hair and complexion, and rounded figure. The beauty of her face was almost angelic, she had pearl-white skin, blue eyes, and her hah' looked like gold, cooled in moonlight. Such was the princess —69— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES in her early youth. Her intellectual brilliancy in- volved her in politics, for it was at her house that those famous parties were held which were regarded with so much disfavour by the legitimist faction. It is stated that she secretly married a brilliant roue, to legitimize her amatory discrepancies. It was noticeable that the Emperor treated her with far more reserve and respect than he generally ac- corded to the ladies whose society he frequented. She frequently drove out in public with the Imperial couple, and when she left France for Spain they accompanied her. When she died, it caused great distress to every one, and especially to myself, due to the honour which she had extended to me on my arrival at Court. Besides her many other perfec- tions which made her admirable, she possessed that one of being a loyal friend. "I shall revere her memory and mourn her all my days," were the words of the Empress Eugenie when the Princess de S. died. As the old harem days of Napoleon's reign pass from our vision, there is a unique fact in the knowl- edge that some of the men who surrounded him had such a horror of impropriety that it is surprising they should have been there at all. However, Napoleon III was always scrupulously correct in —70— COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE good manners. Still, the liberty and licence of the Court invite the curious question as to which of these men who were so insistent for the proprieties, was the greatest fraud. There is a piquant story told of a certain Court lady, a Spanish beauty, who in every detail of fem- inine perfection seriously rivalled the Empress Eugenie. Many at Court hated her, for she inter- fered quite seriously with their own affairs with the Emperor. It was generally admitted that his sentiments towards this lady were very sincere, so much so, that he carried her letters constantly with him. By a conspiracy of the Empress and her Court ladies, she was finally entirely frightened away from the Court balls. It was a very simple plan. Whenever she arrived, looking radiantly beautiful, the Court ladies would get around her and tell her how ill she was looking, until being convinced that she was not looking her best, she would run out of the salon before the Emperor could see her, entirely duped by the mischief of these Court ladies. One of the really daring beauties of the Court of the Second Empire was Madame d'Elboeuf. She was not very tall, but striking, and she exacted ad- miration, awaited love at every turn. Her fore- —71— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES head needed no device of curls, her lips were rather too thin, but her teeth were beautiful, and she was regarded by able sculptors as a figure worthy of classical beauty to rank with the creations of the sculptors of Rome and Greece. She was brazenly intolerant of virtue in other women, which she re- garded as improbable and perhaps impossible. I must give a passing word to two women, who, though not in the Court circles, were so famous for their beauty, their mental vivacity and promiscu- ous adventures, as to be typical of the women of the Second Empire. They were both respectably born. Blanche d'l , one of these women, was the daughter of a man of the world and a distinctly pious mother. Brown-eyed, laughter loving, yet not suggestive of mere bubbling mirth, she always had a rather severe, haughty expression. She had many adorers, shared many intrigues. Her con- temporary, Anne Delyon, was a being of inferior calibre. She was much admired by the Duke de Morny. She would accept gifts of any sort, clothes, bric-a-brac, anything that had value, and she talked with pride of the important men who had supplied them. She frequently visited a cer- tain Grand Duke, dressed as a page, and displayed his costly gifts with much self-congratulation. The —72— COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE partner of her earlier aberrations was a decadent poet of the Second Empire, whom she really loved. But then, she really loved only seven men after all, so she averred in the recital of her book, "Libre Amoris." The names of these two women were chronicled among the Court babblers of the Imperial era. On every page of record in gallantry, in intrigue or diplomatic episodes of this period, one will find some allusion to the brilliant Princess R., with a man's intellect diverted by a woman's caprice. She was ever beguiling, even in her most indifferent moments. Her husband, the prince, though stern in appearance, looked on at her affairs with the admiration one may feel for the gambols of a lovely kitten, but who became adamant when he found that she was interfering with the serious affairs of state. Her sprightly activities made the dull at- mosphere of other neglected Court ladies brighter. Her attachment to her various beaux outlived many vicissitudes, and the princess, in a way that was careless and self-seeking, did her best. Per- haps, after all, she only used her powers to form a cover for her own romances. Her affair with the English Duke of H. was only a blind, for the princess favoured her English lover, so they say, and —73— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES dared almost everything. When visiting a certain country house, the prince wished her to leave with him but she refused. She was not herself quite sure of her hospitality, but she did not wish to give the world the impression that her only home was her husband's. She was often on the brink of disgrace but al- ways escaped. In her resplendent womanhood she captivated every one. After the fall of the Empire she was implicated in some clandestine correspon- dence with the Empress. In these letters she in- formed Her Imperial Majesty that a certain Arch- bishop would do anything for her, if she favoured him. It was not discovered that the prelate was really deeply in the toils of the enchantress, but he did provide her means to get out of France. Dressed as a man, she set off with a couple of horsemen as her sole escorts, but in her usual casual fashion left the evidence of her guilt behind. She was provided with ample means by an acquaintance whom she did not betray, for it might have been fatal to her incognito until she reached the frontier. She sent her lover a colossal sum, and promised him that when she died he should have her jewels. She had many adventures in Holland and Germany. It is said that on one of these expeditions, she —74— COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE stopped at an inn in her man's disguise and slept on the floor with other men, undisturbed. The next morning she left a note for the stupefied land- lord, which informed him that a princess had slept in his house. I cannot leave this fascinating element of coque- try of the Second Empire without again referring to that delicate beauty, Madame de Gallifet. She will go down into history as a woman who in spite of her eagerness for life and all its enchantment, never was known to say an evil thing of any one. She is one of the rare figures in the picturesque tap- estry of time. When she was a girl it was said that she knelt at the altar, praying that she might some night go to Court. She obtained her wish, she was enrolled as Maid of Honour, and it was on this occasion that her future husband saw her. He was a stiff and formal lover. For a long while he went no further than to express himself in flowery speech, and the dear girl began to feel that she had nothing to fear from him beyond the possi- bility of being bored. I have good cause to be- lieve that she found great happiness in her married life. That famous picture by Winterhalter, of the Empress Eugenie, surrounded by her group of fair —75— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES women, is typical of the Second Empire. It was so famous, that in after years proofs of it were sold for over a hundred thousand francs. I believe the original is in the Louvre. Shortly after the war trumpet had sounded the call of duty, and the fall of the Second Empire had occurred, I was crossing on a channel steamer from Folkestone to Boulogne. The boat was extremely crowded and I had to stand up. A lady in deep mourning passed me. There was another lady with her, who, I later found out, was Madame de Faucourt. Both ladies, like myself, were wedged in so tightly, that they could not move. A sailor boy brought me a wooden stool, and the lady in deep mourning looked so longingly at it, that I quite unconsciously asked her to divide the seat with me. So for a little while we sat back to back. Presently she said to me in French: "Madame, do you know a dance called the quad- rille?" "Yes," I said, and she half jestingly added that we were executing a figure of the quadrille. Of course, later I learned it was the Empress, and I recalled to her the name of my aunt, whom she had known so well in her glorious days, and we chatted. When we arrived at Boulogne, the Em- —76— COURT BEAUTIES— SECOND EMPIRE press got up, and as we bowed to each other she lifted her veil, then I bowed again and courtesied, and thanked her for the pleasant crossing, and she graciously extended me her hand, which I kissed. We went different ways, for I was going to Monte Carlo to meet my late husband, and she was going to Cap Martin, where she had a lovely villa. I also met her later in those sublime shady walks on the Mediterranean. Between those olive and almond trees she would come slowly along, leaning rather heavily upon her stick, accompanied by her friend, the Duke de Bassano. -77— CHAPTER II RECOLLECTIONS OF QUEEN VICTORIA I shall never forget the dignity of Queen Vic- toria. It was most remarkable, because in stature and figure Her Majesty was by no means regal. There was an invulnerable air about her, a supreme consciousness of her royal person, that every one felt in her presence. I had the honour of meeting her many times, and I always marvelled at the mys- terious atmosphere of royal identity which seemed to enfold the rather short, stout, plain little lady, who was England's wisest and most gracious Queen. She had the most perfect arms and hands of any woman I ever saw. Perhaps knowing this, she always wore beautiful gold bracelets, one of them bearing her late husband's miniature. On the other was an enormous cameo. Queen Vic- toria never adopted the style of her period of wear- ing bones in her bodice. In later years she used to wear one-piece gowns made by the silk mercers, al- ways especially woven for her at Spittlefields. She —78— QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS was perhaps the one Queen in Europe who never bought, or had made for her in the way of dress anything that was not English and ultra-conserva- tive. All her gowns had long trains, and since the demise of the Prince Consort, her husband, she al- ways wore black. I can only remember that on one or two occasions she relieved this sombre attire with a white plume, or a bunch of lilacs in her bon- net. Yet, she was every inch a Queen. They did not study the form divine in 1830. Perhaps they didn't care to accentuate the curves and lines of the women of that period. At any rate, they dressed themselves like nice sofa cushions, hid their beauty of face in coal scuttle bonnets and huge shovel hats. The early Victorian toilettes in respect of decolletage, were perhaps not over-modest, still there were occasional restraints. There was a strenuous effort in the Victorian Era, to establish the idea that there were none but honest women in England at that time. This im- pulse was inspired entirely by Queen Victoria her- self, whose delicate, fastidious taste looked with horror upon any compromising act, not because of its indiscretion, but because it indicated a common mind. This may have been a chill of temperament which Her Majesty inherited. I am told that in —79— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES her youth she possessed a charm over all men who approached her that they could not ignore. After attracting them first by her youth and loveliness, she held their attention and admiration by her many remarkable qualities of conversation, of wit and brilliancy. When, however, any man at- tempted to cross the slender barrier which separates the courtier from the outspoken admirer, they found her surrounded by a wall of ice, impalpable, but impassible. The court ladies of Queen Vic- toria's early years were often filled with jealous envy towards the Queen. These women created some gossip but in spite of all they said, it is an indisputable fact that at no instant of her life was Queen Victoria's conduct anything but a transpar- ent record of virtue. Once only, it is said, did a man forget the respect due to his sovereign, and in fact to his own honour, as to yield to the temptation of acknowledging a devoted passion for the Queen. On this account, for a long time, the Duke of M. was banished from the Court. The story itself, I believe, was related by him. It was on the night of a state ball, just after the Queen had been crowned, and being fatigued by the heat and glare of the drawing-rooms. Her Majesty —80— QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS stepped out upon the terrace, illumined by the chaste radiance of a full moon. She was accompanied by the young Duchess of Bedford, who had been one of her bridesmaids. The Queen, clad from head to foot in snowy laces, with great emeralds gleaming on her white neck and in the masses of her beau- tiful hair, moved slowly up and down, close to the marble balustrade of the terrace. She was talk- ing to her companion, in that melodious, low voice, which always had something so marvellously capti- vating about it. Presently she reached a secluded and shadowy corner of a long, rose-bowered walk, when suddenly, from beneath the trees, the Duke of M stepped out. It was evident from his manner that he had lost all control of his feelings. He cast himself at Her Majesty's feet and then and there confessed his earnest devotion. In the torrent of his eloquence, his unconsidered words were beyond all pardon. It is said that he clung to her skirts, his eyes sparkling like fire, his whole frame shaken with fierce emotion. Her Majesty shook herself free, stared at him in amazement, then drew herself up and looked upon him as if he were some infuriated animal she wished to subdue. His Grace saw at once that she was im- placably offended. It was probably the first and —81— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES the last time in her life that any one had ever pre- sumed to insult her. "How dare you!" she exclaimed, almost choking with fury. The Duke pursued his mad declara- tion, and of course found himself talking at last to the empty air, for the Queen moved away rapidly and re-entered the castle by a side door, leaving him blinded by his own emotions. It is said that he wandered around the gardens of Windsor Castle most of the night. Nothing annoyed the Queen so much in her earlier years as to appear in public, to be stared at by the struggling crowds who tried to get as close to her as possible. To the common people her pe- culiar style of beauty was not comprehensible, it was a kind which had nothing gross or ordinary about it. Her wonderful ivory-like complexion, her erect, dignified bearing, were utterly for- eign to the popular expectations in England of a Queen, and yet, no Queen on any throne of Europe ever deserved more credit for queenly dignity, not only of outward form, but also of inward charac- ter, than Queen Victoria. Her one fault, perhaps, was a perfectly natural jealousy of her Consort, Prince Albert. The early years of Her Majesty's marriage were shockingly —82— QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS unhappy, and when a woman is unhappy she is never wise. But England received the joyful tid- ings that Queen Victoria had been blessed with a son, Albert Edward, Prince of Wales. With the birth of this princelet all the bells of England rang out joyously, bonfires illuminated the landscape, and there began for Queen Victoria a long reign of unalloyed happiness, into which the yellow mon- ster of jealousy never again intruded. One could write volumes of the period during which the wonderful children of Queen Victoria were growing up to inherit their difficult destinies. Queen Victoria saw many sorrows come to these children, and sustained them with her quiet strength. Her daughter, the Princess Royal, who married Kaiser Friedrich, endured the same sor- rows of widowhood as her mother, when the Em- peror of Germany died. With all her children happily settled she spent the few remaining years of her widowhood in seclusion, the Kaiser and Prince Henry being her only surviving sons. Queen Victoria's widowhood was particularly peaceful and remote from public appearances. She lived an ideal life with her widowed daughter, Princess Beatrice of Battenberg, partly in Bal- moral, partly in the Isle of Wight. Princess Bea- —83— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES trice was created a governor of the Isle of Wight, and both she and her mother were adored by the people of this delightful place. The royal house- hold was managed perhaps rather strictly, puri- tanically, but this did not affect the Battenberg children. They romped and played as other chil- dren, and their royal grandma was very human, very indulgent. The question has often been asked if the Batten- berg menage was a happy one. It is still a query. At any rate, the Prince went away, and rumour said, it was because the Princess Beatrice had in- herited much of her mother's characteristic jeal- ousy. The Prince was an extraordinarily handsome man. Like all the Battenbergs, he had inherited from a morganatic mother, who was a rarely beau- tiful Jewess, much of her good looks and her intelli- gence. All the Battenbergs married well, for they were very popular and charming princes. The first time I met Queen Victoria personally, I was summoned to Windsor Castle to be con- sulted concerning a new dress for Princess Bea- trice. Of course, I went, and on my arrival found that the late Duchess of Roxborough, at that time Mistress of the Robes, had spoken of me to Prin- cess Beatrice. Imagine my surprise when I was —84— QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS informed that I was to make a purple velvet toi- lette for the young princess. Velvet, for one so young! It seemed very peculiar to me; however, I had to obey the royal command. On my arrival at Windsor Castle, I was ushered into the royal boudoir. I particularly remember that, prominently displayed in the room, was a por- trait of the late Prince Imperial, surrounded with great bunches of violets. Perhaps if he had lived an entente cordiale might have existed in the long ago. It was during this first visit to Windsor Castle that I was initiated into the strict etiquette of the royal household. It was of course necessary for me, in my capacity as dressmaker, to stand side by side with Princess Beatrice. During my entire visit, however, Her Royal Highness never ad- dressed me directly; she spoke to me, but in the third person. Her personal dresser was present, by name Morgan. The princess would say to her dresser, for in- stance : "Morgan, I should like you, please, to tell Ma- dame Frederic that I want my jacket and skirt very ample." My reply, of course, was made to Miss Morgan, —85— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES but addressed to the princess. This, I believe, is the formal way of addressing exalted persons of royalty, even if they speak to you directly. The purple velvet gown was made, trimmed with some glorious Russian sable, and successfully worn by Her Royal Highness. Princess Beatrice was at this time rather good looking. She was of the buxom type of beauty, to be sure, but she had a very charming smile, quantities of ash-blonde hair, good teeth, and a rather distingue air. She walked very gracefully. Her marriage to the late Prince Battenberg was, of course, an absolute love- match, and his early death upon foreign shores marred her happiness. She lost one of her favourite sons at the beginning of the war. Her daughter^ however, is the Queen of Spain, and her grand- children are much solace to her. At the time I visited Windsor, Princess Beatrice had not yet married, for in her heart there was still the image of that importunate Prince Napoleon (Lulu) , whose untimely death in Zululand was still fresh in the memory of all who had known him and loved him. Princess Beatrice never entirely lost the tender regard for this real romance of her life. It was always violets, the emblem of the Napoleonic family, which adorned her boudoir. And yet, the —86— QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS closest ties of Princess Beatrice were naturally German. Her daughter, the Queen of Spain, is German on her father's side. Alphonso, the King of Spain, is Austrian on his mother's side. In fact, there is not a single royal family in Europe that has not the blood of Germany somewhere in their veins. A glance at this relationship is worth while. For instance, the Czarina of Russia was a Prin- cess of Hesse Darmstadt. The Queen of Belgium is the daughter of a Bavarian prince. The King of Roumania is a direct descendant of the Hohen- zollerns. The Queen of Roumania is the grand- daughter of the late Queen Victoria. The Queen of Greece is the daughter of Kaiser Friedrich, an- other granddaughter of Queen Victoria, whose mother was the late Duchess of Connaught, daugh- ter of the Red Prince Friedrich Carl of Prussia. The Queen of Holland is the daughter of the Duchess of Wied, her husband is the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg- Schwerin. The royal servants of Windsor Castle during the latter part of Queen Victoria's reign were nearly all Germans. Her personal maid, who was with her for nearly forty years, came from a little hamlet in the Black Forest. Of course, there were a few —87— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES Scotch servants who surrounded Her Majesty. The tradespeople of the neighbourhood used to de- light to go to Windsor Castle because they were always royally treated. Carriages were sent to meet them at the station, and luncheon was served to them by powdered footmen. Eating and drinking had always been one of the national amusements of Great Britain, and there- fore I was not surprised to find at Windsor Cas- tle the most valuable gold table service in the world. It was valued at one million pounds sterling, and is a historical and stupendous work of the goldsmith's art. It consists of huge gold salvers, upon which were dozens and dozens of gold platters, and in- cludes great gold drinking cups, gold soup tureens, gold dishes for roasts, and two enormous dishes big enough to carry the famous English boar's head. It was a barbaric memento of Great Brit- ain's devotion to the feast. I shall never forget the gorgeousness of that million pound gold service, designed and preserved for kings only. The whole royal household was brought up like a large well-conducted family, and Queen Victoria, as the integral part of a great nation's honour, was faithful to her trust, to the traditions of her an- cestry. —88— *l ^ LADY WINIFRED RENSHAW Lady Winifred Renshaw, gifted, tall, very haughty and verj commanding, elder daughter of the Countess of Seitrim, commissioned the author to make her trousseau. QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS The latter part of Queen Victoria's reign was spent almost entirely apart from her official obli- gations. She was very fond of San Remo in Italy. She loved the Mediterranean, and spent part of every year there. She became enamoured with Cimez. Her daily plans of life were always beau- tifully arranged. She was evidently a woman of deep and sweet attachment. When first married, her love for the Prince Consort was always quite obvious. There was a yearning for his affection, which is a sentiment wholly outside the instinct of passion, and I believe in after years that the mem- ory of this tenderness often thrilled her heart anew. Queen Victoria was a religious woman, not in the outward noisy manner of the bigot, but sincerely devoted to the High Church of England, and her charity toward those who recognised the love in their homes that she enjoyed with her husband and her children, was proverbial. The greatest bond between the Queen and the Prince Consort was music. Pie was devoted to Schumann, and Queen Victoria loved the piano. He played very well, and it is said that by accident Her Majesty discov- ered this, when she found him alone one day, play- ing the "Traumerei." The discovery that he pos- sessed this talent gave her wonderful pleasure, and —89— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES it was then she begged him to play Chopin to her. Their love was really ideal. They often walked on the narrow edge of the beach, below the rocky cliffs near Balmoral Castle. Unseen and unat- tended, they would re-discover maritime plants in the shallow water. All sorts of things they col- lected in this way, and brought them home to show the children. It would take a much cleverer pen than mine to do justice to this idyl, to the unselfish devotion which Queen Victoria gave her husband and her family. She found the greatest comfort in her role as a ministering angel to those who suf- fered. She would personally visit the poor, espe- cially the old people in the cottages, and her dig- nity and manner, her kindness at heart, and her loftiness of purpose simply amazed her people. She was greatly blessed for her nursery was completely filled, and all her children, from their tenderest babyhood, were brought up in a love for the open air, and for the influences of nature. The Prince of Wales was the most interesting child, headstrong, generous, plucky, and at the same time extraordinarily tender-hearted. His boyish, resolute air and his charming manner made him a universal favourite. He was very affectionate —90— QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS and sensitive, and he was well trained in bodily ex- ercise. Those wonderful gatherings in the sheltered gar- dens at Windsor Castle, where Queen Victoria would sit, surrounded in later years by her grand- children! She was especially fond of Princess Christian, whose husband, a Schleswig-Holstein, lost an eye through an accidental shooting in Wind- sor Forest. The two sons of Princess Christian are fighting brother against brother. One fights for Germany, and the other for England. Prin- cess Louise, the wife of the late Duke of Argyle, had the most beauty of any of Queen Victoria's children. I remember once being permitted to peep into Her Majesty's studio, or boudoir, at Windsor Cas- tle. It was an oval-shaped room, hung with old Flemish lace. There was a fine collection of su- perb old Chelsea and Dresden china. Pine logs were smouldering lazily in an open fireplace, and there were natural flowers everywhere. I remem- ber distinctly a very old clock that stood solemnly in a corner, where it had been placed since it came from the Black Forest. On the walls were pic- tures by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Turner, Hopner, and the adjoining conservatory was filled with —91— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES camellias, gardenias, ferns, and orchids. From this distance which separates that era of peace and splendour in Great Britain to the present atmos- phere charged with all the horrors that civilisation can endure, one wonders what Queen Victoria would say were she to return to the barbaric vision of the world as it is to-day. Above all things, Her Majesty Queen Victoria loved poetry, and the satirical Heine was a great favourite of hers. I heard through a very intimate friend that her favourite poem was Heine's "The Two Grenadiers." She helped the unfortunate unconditionally, and personally consoled them just as she did her own family. It was her custom often to go unaccompanied, perhaps with only one ser- vant, into the squalid cottages of Scotland. She usually chose the sunset hour for these trips, carry- ing flowers and fruit to those who were sick. She always found some encouraging, cheering words of hope and sympathy, unrestricted by any religious exaggeration of preaching. On one occasion the Queen came upon a rough Scotch miner, dragging a woman by the hair, and kicking her vigorously with his hob-nailed boots. Unmindful of herself, she started beating the man with her umbrella with such vigour, in the face, that —92— QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS in his amazement he stopped, and stared at Her Majesty. The woman resented her interference, and demanded why she did so. The Queen an- swered by giving them a couple of sovereigns. "Beat her, my friend, beat her all she wants, she certainly deserves it for being so loyal to you," said Her Majesty. j The land which Her Majesty enjoyed above all was the Riviera. Summer and winter the Riviera is a world of flowers. The climate is so mild that there are wild stalks blooming in the crevices of those old walls. Upon all the windowsills of those crazy little houses one sees all year round pots of basilica, geranium and fuchsias. The fields are abloom with almond-scented white szerazin and crimson clover. I can almost smell the heath of purple and brown, now. Those were the days of chivalry, when there was a charm indescribably sin- cere. How tasteless and tame seems this twentieth century of ours, compared to it. The great climax of Queen Victoria's reign was the war in South Africa, it was her death knell. She was very fond of going about incognito, and on one occasion, while staying at Scarborough, a Yorkshire seaside resort, she met some very charm- ing people who did not know she was a Queen. —93— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES While standing on the beach, a sailor came up to her and her party. "Will you have a row, ma'am, only six pence an hour?" he said. "Why, of course we will," said Her Majesty, and they all embarked in a little rowboat. Being a Tar of the old fashioned kind, of course, he took this opportunity to "spin a yarn," and this was it: "Ladies, did yer notice that little old house on the beach?" he asked, and when Her Majesty said yes, he told the following story : "It was to that wery house that a strange woman went once to see the owner, who was a poor, bed- ridden old man. " 'Are you Tom Smith?' she asked. " 'Yes,' he said. " 'Then get up and try to follow me. I bring you from the far East a box, filled with treasures, with gold, with all the jewels that the crown ever held, and the whole top of the box is filled with the sovereigns of our dear, precious little Queen Vic- toria." He paused, so that the wonder if the story could sink in, then he said rather roughly: "I wish I could meet the lassie, I would ha' gi'n her a real smack in the mouth." —94— QUEEN VICTORIA'S RECOLLECTIONS The Queen raised her hand very gently, and said to him: "Will this hand do, for I am Queen Vic- toria?" She was a Queen of grace, of soulful considera- tion and kindness. Pageantry, pomp and cere- mony she did not like, and when she consented to wear all the insignia of her lofty rank, her presence was not improved by the priceless display of jewels, for the precious stones themselves seemed to gather their magnificence and their loveliness from being in contact with her. Her political ideas were extremely broad. She used to say that every one believed a republican form of government was the best. I remember seeing Her Majesty at one very im- portant Court function, when she was wearing one of the most beautiful Court dresses I ever saw. It was of light blue moire with an entire overdress of spun gold tulle, held from the shoulders by clus- ters of real roses. Her head-dress was a sort of coronet of pink pearls, sapphires and diamonds. She wore a fan-shaped bodice. The endless, fan- shaped train and bodice of this period were of the softest, shimmering tulle, embroidered with pearl- hearted Parma violets. She wore a mantle of the finest gauze, powdered with jet. Around her —95— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES shapely neck hung row after row of softly gleaming black pearls and black diamonds interspersed with brilliants. In her hand she carried a marabout fan, adorned with her crown in diamonds. On this occasion Her Majesty was in a very amiable mood, smiling and conversing graciously with every one. She looked so youthful that her contemporaries could easily have been taken for her seniors by many years. After the usual Court presentations were over, tea was served in a large supper room for Their Majesties and their immedi- ate followers, while other guests took supper in ad- joining drawing-rooms. By midnight all was over. Her Majesty did not like late hours, that is why her wonderful complexion never required any cos- metics. Cold water m her tub before retiring, a glass of hot milk, were the preliminaries of Her Royal sleep. She was a very early riser, and as soon as she awoke she had a cup of tea, a few slices of but- tered toast, and some fruit. Her life was simple, unostentatious, beautiful. -96— CHAPTER III ROYAL GAMBLERS AND THEIR AMOURS The clatter of gold, the sparkle of jewels, and woman, create those extraordinary places of pic- turesque but violent elements of human nature called gambling centres. There were two famous ones in Europe in my youth, one was in Homburg, conducted by the celebrated Monsieur Blanc, the other was in Monte Carlo. The time when Homburg was at its best was in the autumn, but it was in the summer of 1867 that I with all the world went to that picturesque place, Taunus, where were united the social and scanda- lous men and women of Europe. The gambling salons here, which were run by M. Blanc, were magnificently decorated. He spent a fortune cre- ating an impression in these rooms that you had entered a feudal castle of a former period. A won- derful collection of famous old masters covered the walls. No better symbol of the ruling passion could —97— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES have been conceived than that complete facade of full length mirrors which greeted you at the en- trance to these rooms. You could see yourself there in your full glory, and others could see you, so that you could be bewitchingly and enthusiasti- cally admired. And yet one could hardly get close enough to these mirrors to have one's own reflection complete, they were so arranged. M. Blanc, as I remember him, was a little round-faced French- man, with a pointed beard. He was an educated man, a widower, whose two daughters married brilliantly, and whose granddaughter married the son of the King of Greece. He was rather fond of the ladies, and frequently when he saw them lose he would offer them his cheque, whispering to them, "Continue, continue." Of course, one entered these rooms with a cer- tainty of feeling that you would leave them pos- sessing the treasures of Golconda. The gaming tables opened at 11 A. M., and were always covered with gold louis. The struggle in the crowd was to procure a seat as near as possible to the head croupier. The gold itself was brought up in huge bags from the vaults. These bags were guarded by two or three employees of the bank, who carefully watched their discharge upon the table, —98— ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS where the gold and bank notes were deposited. The game itself was roulette. Each croupier had a small shovel before him, with which to handle the gold and the notes. Every two hours these men were relieved from duty. The head croupier sat upon a chair, considerably elevated from the rest, keeping a sharp eye upon any errors in payment, whether too little or too much, to the players. The lowest sum one could risk at the roulette was five francs. The two men who were internationally notorious as celebrated gamblers in the sixties were Prince Paul Demidoff and Garcia. The latter broke the bank of Monte Carlo once, and at Homburg and Wiesbaden twice. There was always a crowd sur- rounding these men, a curious mob, seeking to fol- low their luck. The conditions and surroundings of these places were indescribably feverish and un- reasonable. While all conditions of society could be found at these places, there was a predominance of those types that belonged to Babylon of old. The entrances were thronged, and many of the beautiful women were not irreproachable. Love was in the air, and these radiant charmers were royally paid by the managers of M. Blanc to at- tract, to ensnare men to become mad, which is never a very difficult thing to do. I recall some of these —99— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES women, those who represented predominant types. There was Baruchi, whose type of beauty com- pletely overpowered the heir to the throne of Hol- land. He was called Prince Citron, and himself was a famous lady-killer, a distinguished rake of his time. He spent millions where others spent pen- nies. His sumptuous apartments in Paris were famous as representing the last word in extrava- gance. It is said that he presented Baruchi with a string of pearls which must have cost over half a million dollars. Her bosom friend Soubise was the opposite type of beauty from Baruchi, who was dark, luxuriously oriental. Soubise was blonde, and therefore the contrast of their individual and su- preme beauty made them intimate friends. I re- member an incident, which illustrates the power of beauty at the gaming tables. Madame Soubise had been playing for some time, and having lost every penny she possessed, was about to leave, when a certain prince of the old aristocracy of France turned to the croupier and said, "Madame is good for twenty-five thousand francs, please go on." I especially remember her purse, which was a tri- umph of the goldsmith's art. It was a huge gold shell, deeply set with Brazilian diamonds of the purest colour. On one side was the coat of arms —100— ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS of emeralds and topaz. The purse hung on a chain attached to her girdle, which, according to the fashion of the time, was made of Persian turquoise and Siberian rubies. The girdle and the purse were valued by a famous jeweller in Paris at seven hun- dred thousand francs. She always dressed magnifi- cently, creating a slender silhouette, with her long, trailing skirts gracefully draped about her. She was a singularly graceful creature with dreamy green eyes. She looked like one of those pictures painted by Marckhardt. She reigned supreme in her world, and her entertainments were attend- ed by all the great aristocrats of the period. Her hotel was very wonderful and was beauti- fully decorated. She was a woman of fine taste, and her home was one of the show places in Paris. It is interesting to get a glimpse of the setting in which this feminine jewel lived for so long. Her bedroom represented an Indian temple of Buddha. There were no chairs visible. The room was furnished with wonderful Kurdistan and Smyrna carpets. Her parquet floor was cov- ered with Indian shawls. Her tapestries were Gobelins and Beauvais. Appropriately or not, they represented biblical scenes, such touching —101— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES episodes as Joseph being sold by his brethren, Moses in the Bulrushes, the drowning of the Egyptians and many fine reproductions of Hogarth. Her boudoir was in turquoise velvet, the hangings of Pointe de Flanders, attached with huge cords and tassels, festooning the draperies, which hung in folds to the bottom of the floor. The floor itself was inlaid with arabesque of Malachite mosaics. The door knobs were of sterling silver. When her bric-a-brac was sold, it brought over five million francs. She was very charitable but she treated her ad- mirers with very little consideration. Mammon really meant nothing to her, for she ignored the wonderful men who had showered countless jewels upon her when she met a penniless young man who was a croupier at Homburg, with whom she eloped. The dominating figures of these gambling rooms, however, were Paul Demidoff and the great gam- bler Garcia. They were the Neros of the Goddess of Fortune. They did not fiddle, but they whis- tled, and all that was corrupt in society was held spellbound. They threw showers of gold and notes at the women they admired, who fluttered around them, like moths in the glare. The hilarity of the —102— ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS life during the gambling season was sustained by Count Caroli and Prince Esterhazy. The atmosphere of the salons de jeu was over- perfumed perhaps, but it was a hot-house of arti- ficial flowers in human form, brilliantly illuminated by the huge crystal chandeliers of the period of Louis XV. It was a crowd gone mad with de- sire for gold at any price, and the study of their faces in the midst of these miserable ambitions was often ghastly. I think it is generally known that the Russians are the most regardless and extrava- gant gamblers, and so these gaming tables were usually surrounded by grand dukes and their beau- tiful followers. I remember particularly a striking figure, the Princess Yourowska. She was always attended by her footman in gorgeous livery, who stood behind her jauteuil, holding a case of Louis d'ors. She would frequently reach behind her, without looking, into this case, and place her bets. She dipped so frequently into this gold, that the case was some- times quickly emptied. She was a good loser, and M. Blanc a big winner. She was not the only woman tempted solely by the thrills of inexhaustible chance, there was always that beautiful Russian, the Princess Souvaroff, who, with her commanding —103— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES figure, all could see was an enthusiastic gambler. Like all the Russians and the Poles, they loved to gamble. It was really an inspiring sight, to see the absolute calm with which the Grand Dukes Alexis and Nicholas would take their places behind the table, stake the maximum, walk away, and when the croupiers, in their soulless, nasal voices, lazily pronounced the fate of others in the usual phrase, "Rien ne va plus," their Imperial Highnesses would leisurely either pick up their games, or withdraw calmly to begin again. There were many famous women, of course, who perhaps were better gamblers than the men, be- cause, while they but lighted the fires to consume others, they were themselves of the asbestos quality. It seems to me that this particular type of woman has rather disappeared from the world of to-day, and therefore we can look upon her at this distance, with the analytical audacity of curious observers. There comes to my mind a woman who excessively and completely represents the type — Cora Pearl. As to beauty, as to the arts of love, as to her knowl- edge which contact with the world in its most com- plex relations had given her, she was supreme. Her worldliness made her a prime favourite. In her men saw all their longings, she depicted the com- —104— ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS plete living identity of the woman of their dreams. Every man has some such woman, but he rarely meets her. She was a woman who took extreme pains to study the art of deception. It is said she would stand before the mirror, practising fond glances, developing the magic of her eyes. For the heroes of her amours she had no sym- pathy, but she would pretend to listen to them, with- out a tremor in her heart. Some people called her beauty diabolical, if there is such a thing. I do not believe that beauty of any sort can, in its original birthright, have anything but a divine purpose, though it is often diabolically managed. Cora Pearl was accused of being a supremely gifted actress of heroine's parts, off the stage. Un- questionably her beauty was of the kind that lifts men's souls above all tenderness. I recall almost verbatim a confession she made to me once, and I quote it here because it is a rare document of hu- man heartlessness. She had the strength of the weak, which in women is a fascinating study in morals. When Armand Duval, the son of the famous res- taurateur, being rejected by Cora Pearl, shot him- self one night in front of her door, she made this extraordinary exclamation : —105— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES "I do not know what it is to be anything but a courtesan, people may call me what they like. I follow my own inclinations, I take my own road. I was born to take what I can get. There have been some agreeable things in my life, such as spend- ing a fortune in two years. I always knew, of course, that I was irresistible, — I knew that I was a vampire. I knew that I adored the golden calf, and it mattered little to me who worshipped me, or where, so long as I could shine. My greatest treas- ure was my marble skin, which I kept like ivory. I knew that the man I favoured took much pride in his imaginary success. He became a Paragon in the club." She was a modern Cleopatra, her idea of life be- ing that she would have accomplished her destiny when she had perpetuated the name of one of the most noble courtesans. She had a particular weakness for princes, and usually talked marriage. Of course, she only pre- tended, everything she did was sham, she had no desire for any sincerity, but she was desirous of be- coming a princess of the House of Orange. She preferred, of course, princes who were bachelors or widowers, and she pursued also married nobles who were in a fair way to become widowers. Many of —106— ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS the men she selected were strangers whom she had never seen, and among them several who had never thought of her, and who never did think of her. Part of her creed in the religion of love was that she should never be adored by a man below the rank of prince. That is why, perhaps, she survived the tragedy of Armand Duval's suicide, that was the reason for her disdainful rejection of his love. She accepted the idea of love in the abstract, repudiat- ing the idea of true love, because she was logical to her destiny. She was strong-minded, and fully realized the danger of permitting her heart to inter- fere. Her portrait hangs in a celebrated gallery, where spectators of all kinds, including the clergy, collect and meditate, and linger, to admire. The strong will of a beautiful woman can defeat un- natural influences, and knowing this, she made no hypocritical attempt to hide her character. She died in abject misery, asking alms of those men whom she had spurned in her early days. She grew tired of grovelling like a worm in the world of pleasure where she had reigned, where her for- mer lovers had forgotten her, and the choir boys gathered around her humble grave and sang, "Rest m Feace. One of the favourite boil mots of this period in —107— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES the seventies, among these people of the gambling instinct, which interprets the license of the time, is worth quoting. It was this : "Our Emperor Napoleon stuffs his ears with cot- ton." All women who had been beloved by Napoleon III knew that they would be well treated in after years. There were, of course, occasional quarrels between the beautiful rivals for imperial favour. I remember an incident illustrating this between the famous Mrs. R. and Madame Soubise. They were both devout Catholics. One day they met at the Madeleine, both were suffering from a cold, both entered a pew together, and both were sneezing. A feud that had lasted for a long while, was patched up, when one of the ladies handed the other a little pot of cream and rosewater to rub on her nose. Money came so fast and so easily in those colossal salons in Homburg, Baden-Baden, Wiesbaden, Monte Carlo, it was absolutely thrown away. There were magnificent dinner parties cooked especially for these royal gamblers that surpassed anything to be found in the world. And yet, were they happy? I often wondered when I saw Paul Demidoff with a petite blonde, Countess de G., what tradition —108— ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS could bring these two opposite beings together. There was so much dross that glittered, so many- parasites living in the rich soil. It was Paul Demi- doff who, for the Countess de G., gave that cele- brated masquerade which cost the fabulous sum of three million roubles. The entire suite of salons were hung in royal blue velour d' Utrecht with huge cordelieres in silver, and the frieze entirely covered with superb Burano lace. The entire scene was lighted with millions of wax candles, shedding a wonderful lustre. It required a separate staff of footmen in gorgeous livery, merely to snuff the can- dles, to prevent the grease from dropping on the polished parquet floor. The effect of the dancers, whirling slowly to the strains of Offenbach's de- lightful music, was like a symbolic scene from the underworld, the soft candle lights casting weird shadows. There was a Grand Duchess, dressed as Sappho, dancing a gavotte with an Austrian Grand Duke, dressed as an Incroyable. Baruchi and her type came to the ball frankly as courtesans of the First Empire, deftly leaving little to the imagination, wearing sandals, pale rose tights, diamonds and coral anklets, bracelets with gold and turquoise chains, attached to their little fingers, as a Scara- —109— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES mouche. It was all like a dream, only the figures were alive. Among the cavaliers one saw at these midnight- till-sunrise feasts was the handsome Duke Alva- rez de Toledo, who turned the heads of so many women, his cousin the Marquis de Gandara, and the Duke of Montegano, representing the fine flower of the court of the Queen Isabel of Spain, who, by the way, was a lady who counted her lovers in legions. One saw also General Pirn, who was her constant companion. Her quiet little husband, Francis D 'Assise, was only an onlooker. She was a woman of tremendous size, very jovial, debonair, a "real good sport." None of her children were ever quite so popular. Her handsome grenadiers always stood at attention when this grand Queen inspected her troops, and if history speaks the truth, many of these stalwart soldiers owed their promotion to her. One cannot but think, while touching the royalty of Spain in retrospect, of that beautiful woman, the Infanta Eulali, a lover of music and books. She is still a very charming woman, a great friend of the Duchess de Richelieu, formerly the princess of Mo- naco. It was the latter who made Isidore de Lara, the musician, celebrated. —110— ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS These ladies, however, did not quite belong to the era of triumph in the days of Napoleon III. They were the comets only of the end of the Second Em- pire. They often came to England, where I saw them. What delightful days of luxury those were in the sixties, when one disappeared from the domestic monotony for little pilgrimages to the gambling salons and the races in Baden-Baden. Every one flocked to this charming watering-place in the Black Forest. No one will forget that wonderful little rendez- vous called Stephaniebad, where the most illustri- ous, and notorious, people foregathered for break- fast. It was an Elysium tucked away in the pines. The exquisite aroma of those pines! Those little river trout, fresh caught, served on those silver dishes, invitingly curled up! The delicious coffee and cream ! Indeed you were glad to be alive, and those beautiful women, feasting in the morning sun upon their eager prey, whom they confused that they might destroy. They were the decoys of the gambling rooms of Maison Blanc. I can still see the faces of the gamblers gathered around the gaming table. Faces that were human masques of great fortune, or great despair. Their —111— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES bodies immobile, they stood like statues. I still hear those delightful little screams of joy from the women as they swooped down upon their winnings from the tables. I also hear their little sighs of de- spair, hideous little gasps of absolute ruin. Some- times the ruin came in different forms. I was present when Madame Adelina Patti, then the Marquise de Caux, when dining, one evening on the terrace, near the gaming tables, was startled by her maid, Caroline, who came rushing to her very excitedly to say that somebody had ransacked her rooms and escaped with all her jewels. She never recovered them, and they represented a huge fortune. Later, she became a bit tired of her vola- tile husband, who, being aide-de-camp of Napoleon III, waved his handkerchief so often at the ladies that Patti finally separated from him peacefully. Her second husband, Nicolini, who was certainly more like a hair-dresser than anything else, was al- ready married and had several children, when her romance began. She made him divorce his Italian wife, leave his children, and paid his wife a large indemnity. She gave employment to his daugh- ters, or at least educated them. Nicolini died, and Adelina Patti's widowhood became involved in a third matrimonial enterprise, with Baron Cedar- —112— ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS strom, who came from a very aristocratic Swedish family with no money. They married, I believe very happily, notwithstanding that he was thirty years younger than herself. Perhaps the most inveterate gambler of the sa- lons was the Countess KislefF, who with her son almost built the little city of Homburg which they ultimately lost. Homburg repaid them by naming a street, KislefF Strasse. I can see the old lady now in her ample white wig profusely ornamented with artificial flowers. On the hottest day she wore a heavy black mantilla of velvet, and her dress, also a black velvet, had a sweeping train which fell in gorgeous folds behind her. Her esclavage, a huge necklace peculiar to that period, which was wound many times about the neck and hung far down on the body, was of such enormous precious stones that the countess attracted the attention of the multi- tude, through which she passed on entering the gaming salon, for she was eccentric to a degree. Her servants were always with her, and she was carried in a sedan chair of the Louis IV period to the gaming salons. She lived in them, entering them at eleven A. M. and never leaving them till eleven P. M. Her luncheon was brought in to her on a silver tray. After luncheon she would take her —113— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES money rake and begin afresh with all her cards be- side her, and all the tricks of her system to break the bank at work. Her system usually failed, but she occasionally made a great deal of money. Judg- ing by the amount of money she lost, her fortune must have been superior to Rothschild's. Her son inherited a colossal fortune, which permitted him to live where he liked and how he liked. Naturally he was very popular with the stage beauties, par- ticularly with a French dancer of the type which was then so much admired in the world-famous "Black Crook." The peculiarity of this type was that all the ladies of the ballet wore black tights and red shoes. I recall the trio of graceful dancers, Madame Brunette, Finette, and Bouhelier, who were the attraction of the Little Theatre in Homburg. Then there was the famous Fidelaire, who danced so gracefully on a thin wire rope. The code of that period was to enjoy life at any cost, our code is to take the best and leave the dregs. It was at Compiegne where, when the hunting season began, one saw the most wealth and nobil- ity of the old regime. Here one saw the Countess of M., the Countess de G., the Princess S., the Mar- quise L., the Duchess de M. A romance of this —114— ROYAL GAMBLERS— THEIR AMOURS time was that of the Duke D'Aumale waiting for his beloved Blanche D'Antinguee, that glorious creature with the lovely ash-blonde hair and a fig- ure like a Juno, who was such a favourite in that play, "The Craven Eye." He gave her the most beautiful hotel in the Avenue Bois de Boulogne. It was she who was afterwards immortalised by Emil Zola in his book called "Nana." — 115— ^ CHAPTER IV COURT SOCIETY AROUND THE PRINCE OF WALES No one can read this story of the society that sur- rounded royalty in England, during the regime, without feeling that it is pre-eminently a history of mixed hypocrisy and convincing scandal. The story of the Court of St. James, from that period when the Prince of Wales was perhaps twenty, and whose first guide into the world of romance was one of the most brilliant and beautiful women of the Court, the Duchess of M ; to that period of mature diplomacy which has placed him in the record of international affairs as the greatest of royal diplomats, there is a ceaseless list of beautiful women and wonderful amours. It is my intention to take individually and separately each one of those favourite Court beauties who influenced the career of Edward VII. This is to be a chronicle, chiefly, of the brilliant trail along which royalty and its contemporaries have travelled downward. It is a chronicle told entirely from my personal —116— COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES knowledge and experience of Court life, and may therefore contain unknown and untold incidents that gossip and rumour have more or less distorted. In later chapters the psychology of love, as it in- fluenced the Court of Great Britain, will be de- veloped objectively. It is my purpose only, in these opening pages, therefore, to prepare the way. One must put aside the most important tradi- tions of convention, one must look upon the heart stories of these beautiful women comprehendingly, with a sympathy, with a broad idea that the morals of love must not be stupefied by convention. Re- membering, that in the reign of Edward VII so- ciety plunged from the heights of the sublime to the verge of the ridiculous, we must reluctantly assume that the strong and simple character of Queen Vic- toria was not sustained by the heir apparent to the throne. Unquestionably he was sorely tempted. Quite early in his royal career, the prince estab- lished such blundering relationships with the beau- ties of the Court of St. James, that only his ex- treme good humour and personal tact saved him from open scandal. There was no special reserve of attitude, no sacred circle drawn around his royal presence. He was the subject of much gossip at the London clubs, where men irreverently asked —117— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES each other, "Who is the prince's latest mash?" I gathered something of the splendour of His Royal Highness 's tastes in love, from the gowns I designed for these Court beauties. Like other men, His Royal Highness was lured by the dazzle of laces and satins. They were decidedly enticing, these lovely women, when I had finished with them. In the interval, during which they went through the processes of my fitting room, they confided to me the secrets of their vanities, their ambitions, and — some of them, of their hearts. I made many of their dresses, and some startling negligees. One really could not blame any man, not even the Prince of Wales, for submitting to their enticing beauty. It was not only the affairs in which His Royal Highness was concerned that established the char- acter, may I say the dissipation of the Court of St. James. When, at the age of twenty, His Royal Highness found himself the leader of the highest social circles of England, there had been scandals, and there had been love stories that should have shocked him, had he inherited the strict qualities of his adorable mother, Queen Victoria. In the early eighties, for instance, one of the most charming women was the Dowager -Cpuntess —118— COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES C , who found relief from prosaic surroundings in a romance with the Duke of B , then the Earl of W. It was a romance that lasted for many- years, and perhaps would have been undisturbed until now, except for the appearance on the horizon of a Madame de T , who openly rivalled the exquisite Countess. The result of this situation was much anonymous and libellous correspond- ence which produced almost a law suit that would have steeped London society deep in the mire. It was a most unsavoury condition, and was widely talked about in London society. The Dow- ager Countess C.'s husband was divorced several times. His son went on the stage after marrying a chorus girl. The most extraordinary part of this relation is the fact that it was generally accepted, and sustained among their friends. They were usually invited together by hostesses of brilliant po- sition, and their intimacy was not disturbed or criti- cised. In fact, it was generally understood that the Dowager Countess C. would eventually marry her aristocratic affinity on the death of her husband. When the Duke of B. transplanted his affections, it was a great blow to her. The Duke, however, married her rival, and has been singularly happy and devoted to his family. The Dowager Countess —119— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES C. retired into absolute seclusion. It was a mys- terious fact in the history of these romances of Court life, that the heart-broken took their punish- ment with singular courage. Doubtless, there is a great reserve force in the pride which lies in the blood of the aristocrat. The Dowager Countess, in after years, only referred to her devotion to the Duke of B. with a certain peculiar pride in the fact that she had never been ruled by conventions of the world. Her daughter married well, but inherited the flirtatious qualities of her mother. She became the second wife of Lord W., because his first wife, Lady Lilian W., was involved in a love affair with the Marquis of S., whose adventures were notori- ous. In these chronicles of Court romance, Lady Lil- ian W. ranks among the daring and regardless beauties. She was of statuesque figure, had beau- tiful Titian hair, and her extreme tastes and ex- travagance in dress became practically an asset for the luxurious but questionable marquis. He was an attache in one of the Courts of Europe. Because of his peculiar complexion he was spoken of in so- ciety as "The Blue Monkey." I believe that for some inexplicable reason, probably the caprice of femininity, he was rather enthusiastically admired. —120— COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES In the sense of certain acknowledged qualities that go to make up the term "thorough gentleman" he was accepted everywhere. He was a thoroughbred, an intimate of His Royal Highness. They were constantly together. Many were the trips up the river to Oxford they had together. How wonderful all these favoured women were, — tall, beautiful figures, lovely heads, faces like ma- donnas, hair that intoxicated. One in particular I recall, who to-dav is in the Red Cross sisterhood, whose waist was so marvellously slender that His Royal Highness, when waltzing with her, declared that he was afraid she would break in half, — but of course she didn't. The Prince of Wales seemed to have a taste for witty and spirituelle women, in his earlier years at least. This particular Court beauty was a splendid billiard player. Her week- end parties were always attended by officers of the crack regiments. Among the Court beauties was that extraordi- nary freak of British aristocracy, the Marquis of Anglesea, who looked, dressed, and aspired to be a woman. He was the fashionable female imper- sonator of royalty. He gave special performances in his private theatre on his estate at Bodaseer in Wales. It was his custom to invite all the attrac- —121— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES tive chorus girls to these performances, and to re- ward them with presents of magnificent diamonds. He had a collection of emeralds that were the finest in the world. His fearful extravagance eventually brought him into bankruptcy. His peculiar dissi- pation was probably inherited, for his father di- vorced his first wife, an American, so that he could retire from the world with the Countess de G., the sister of the notorious Princess S., whose career is discussed later on. The Countess de G. was a lit- tle woman, very Russian, very barbaric. She lived for many years at the historical castle at Bodaseer, in Wales. Her daughter's trousseau was the most gorgeous ever made, I think. She married the Honourable E. Stanhope, son of the Marquis of H. His Royal Highness made a special visit to the dressmaker, to see this trousseau. The Court of St. James may have had the out- ward air of lethargy, may have seemed indolent, but the early nursery training of royalty had evi- dently failed to stifle the intrigues of romance. A complete record of the heart burnings at the Court of St. James is quite impossible; it would require a dictionary to define its moral psychology. One recalls, however, a few of the high spots in the romantic wilderness of inexplicable love affairs. —122— COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES For instance, there was the famous Zulu beauty, as she was called, the celebrated Mrs. D. S., wife of a South-African millionaire. He had untold wealth, and when they came to London they were warmly received. She may have inherited some- thing of the freedom of the South African veldts, for she was singularly willing to meet His Royal Highness clandestinely. With her bosom friend, Mrs. W., they took a house in Kensington, and there received His Royal Highness through the subterfuge of social receptions. These receptions were a little overdone, as the two women were both inclined to extremes. The staircase of their house was banked with lilies of the valley and violets, the boudoir smothered with Bankshire roses, in honour of His Royal Highness. A present peer of the realm fell in love with her. Her husband nat- urally divorced her, but His Royal Highness ob- jected to her marriage with the peer, and her ro- mance with the latter was a failure. In fact, I believe that His Royal Highness found means to estrange her from her aristocratic lover, and brought about the result of her remarriage to her husband. She functions now as a matron in one of the big hospitals in London, where she nurses the heroes from the trenches. Her only son went —123— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES into the Seventh Hussars, and became aide-de- camp to one of the British generals. It is impossible to escape a sense of wonder as to whether the conventions which are supposed to protect one's emotions should be adopted, or adapted to our hearts. So many of these Court beauties of a younger generation are now per- forming wonderful and heroic services for the wounded. So many of them began with a fever- ish disregard of commonplace respectability, and are now accepted as teachers and sisters of mercy. To the philosopher, it is worth studying, this whirl of emotions which brings so many women to a real- ization of higher and better things than the vani- ties of love. As an instance of this thought, there is the won- derful devotion and sincere friendship existing be- tween the Marchioness of R. and Her Majesty the Dowager Queen Alexandra. In her early life the marchioness, because of her regardless amours, was the laughing-stock of Paris. She was notorious among the undesirable women of fashion. A won- derful woman, with extraordinary beauty, who has emerged from the mire of her emotions to the heights of a friendship with the most distinguished woman in England. —124— COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES There was an unwritten law among these hand- some women of the Court of St. James, and per- haps their beauty and their wit were often miscon- strued in the opinion of those men who reason badty. However, being Ladies and Gentlemen of the Court of St. James, silence among them be- came an axiom. It had grown up with them, be- come a part of themselves, like a sense of honour. Then too, they had to be silent, to avoid being talked about, or endure the penalty of being forever cast out of the royal circle. Many of the mar- riages of these beautiful women and rather idle men were failures. That charming American girl from Baltimore, who married a duke of the realm, learned the un- written law of the Court of St. James. There was a guardsman who laid down the law to her. She was not really to blame, for her husband chose a pseudo-duchess, one Belle Bilton, and with her he lived his romance apart. She indeed rose supreme. Then, there was that charming American actress of the musical stage, who even to-day retains her beauty and her lovely child-like expression. She married, and her memoirs to-day would make in- teresting reading for those English aristocrats who adored her. Love was in the air! In the Court —125— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES of St. James it was perpetual springtime. One never knew where one would stumble upon an un- expected romance. Most of these wonderful women of the Court of St. James, at least those who inspired the greatest love stories, were not young women. They had passed the meridian of life, and I often wondered how brilliantly they kept those eminent men who were celebrities in the diplomatic and military life of England. The Englishman of aristocratic tendencies, however, is usually more charmed by women of subtlety and wit than by the most radi- ant youthfulness. Such women, for instance, as Lady Sara Wilson, dominant, independent, brave, executive. Her book, which contained the stories of her experiences during her imprisonment at Mafeking, in South Africa, was widely read. It was a many-sided picture of the life among British officers out there, and she was very much admired for her delicate handling of certain romantic inci- dents. She was by no means beautiful, but she deserved the glory of her success since she was proud, as all the Churchills are. She came of a family that had many romantic adventures. In fact, the entire atmosphere in which these ladies of the Court of St. James lived, might have been en- —126— COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES tirely contemporary with the Court of Louis XIV. One wonders how Queen Victoria, who was so ex- ceptionally apart in character from the quality of the Court of St. James, did not in some vigorous way dispel the vulgarism of English society. There was a time when the garden parties at Marlborough House were practically dominated by a trio of famous beauties who were known as The Three Graces. They were Mrs. C. W., Mrs. W., and Mrs. L. The success of these social events was practically created by the beauty and elegance of these women. And yet, men and women in the street knew perfectly well their scandalous reputa- tions. But then, there was hardly any member of the aristocracy at the Court during these times, who had not played some questionable character in some undesirable romance. Surely every one recalls that wonderful case where a lady of one of the proudest families of Scotland, a sister of one of The Three Graces, was called upon to give evidence that her infant was the offspring of the future King of England. Also it is perhaps not forgotten that she was put into an asylum where some people affirm she still is. And after all, she only spoke the truth, in spite of the fact that the future King of England —127— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES had to go upon the witness stand to contradict the venomous reports which made the whole of London ashamed. As in all Courts, it was the custom for the aristo- crats of the Court to exert all their strength and polish to consolidate the ruling passions of the sov- ereign, or the heir apparent. This may explain many of the disturbing elements of the English Court which have passed into the chronicles of scan- dal. The first event in the amours of His Royal Highness which stirred society to its depths, was his affair with the beautiful English actress. As a human document she has become one of the most interesting in the entire history of the Court of St. James, because perhaps she has survived the customary downfall. She preserved her incognito fairly well, but when receiving His Royal High- ness assumed her new relationship with gusto. So as to facilitate the laxity of His Royal Highness' domestic ties at Court, many revels had been trans- ferred to the houses of his boon companions, where this beautiful English actress met him. To be sure, she was supplanted by other beautiful women, but her reign was as glorious as theirs. She amassed a huge fortune, and it is said beggared one or two millionaires. Colossal sums passed —128— COURT SOCIETY— PRINCE OF WALES through the hands of these Court beauties of the nineteenth century. Of course, a great deal of this money went to the jewellers, the dressmakers, who must have profited enormously. Doubtless she would like to have been able to retain the con- stancy of her royal swain, but not, I imagine, be- cause she wished to satisfy her heart. I wonder if she really possessed one? The affair with Sir Robert Peel, the episode con- cerning the loss of her diamonds at her beautiful house in London, helped to sever their very close relationship. I am sure it was an evil day when she broke the golden thread. She still retains his autographed photos which always adorn her abid- ing place, whether it is the Carlton in London or the Ritz in New York — for her royal lover became a reigning sovereign. Her marriage was decidedly one of convenience. Her husband had been her friend, and was anxious to marry her but she used to tell him, "Stay your tears, postpone them for another time." Later he became her husband, and they lived together only pro tern., parting quite amiably, for both had attained their end, he an in- come, and she a fortune. The love story of the beautiful countess whose sumptuous presence and exquisite personality en- —129— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES tirely captured His Royal Highness from the time they first met at a Court function is well known. In a later chapter I deal more fully with this phase of this adorable Court beauty who, when the end of her romance came, had to face outrageous calum- nies. Some really thought her more sinned against than sinning. She was a familiar figure in Hyde Park, in Bond Street. Her motor was so original that it attracted wide attention. It was entirely white outside and in. —130- CHAPTER V THE GALLANTRIES OF HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS During his younger days, His Royal Highness undoubtedly kept open house in his heart for the ladies. He never entirely closed the door to them in after years. To the last he sent them valuable presents, as he did in his youth. There is consola- tion in the thought (to those of us who are prud- ish) that the late King Edward VII clung with the greatest affection and respect to his lovely prin- cess and Queen. It was at a wedding party in one of the minor German states that the Prince of Wales proposed to the Princess Alexandra of Denmark. Her beauty, her character, her remarkable dignity and grace have passed into contemporary history with- out a challenge. Never have a monarch and his consort been so idolised and so loved by the masses, the classes and the aristocracy, as King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra. Men went mad about her beauty, but there has never been a breath —131— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES of scandal about her. Her eldest son, the Duke of Clarence, bore a striking resemblance to her. Her eldest daughter, the Duchess of Fife, like herself, married for love, a man twenty years her senior, a man who had sowed his wild oats as the friend of her father. Of course, rumours of His Majesty's love affairs must have reached the ears of the Queen. Frequently, no doubt, these rumours were exaggerated. I was told that Queen Alexandra ex- pressed herself to an inquisitive inquiry concerning her royal husband, as follows : — "If all that the world says of my liege, the King, is only in a small degree true, all I can say is that I am very proud to possess such a wonderful per- sonality." The women of the Court of St. James who fell into the turmoil of luxury, under the sway of the more plebeian instincts of man, which surrounded the royal person of this charming prince, were really not in very serious danger because they were mostly in the fullness of their maturity, or if younger, they had grown old before their time, per- haps robbed themselves to give their best to their royal prince. There was unquestioned rivalry, and the shock when the downfall of a favourite did come, was socially overwhelming. —132— THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H. The fate of the beautiful countess who for so long had been as the Bridge of Sighs to the prince's love affairs, was really in his hands. The affair was broken at the desire of the prince, but at that time the countess had outgrown her infatuation for the man. At the beautiful castle, where she enter- tained him, everything was always very quiet and in excellent order. Being independently rich, she could surround herself with regal luxury. There was never any noise or confusion in the manage- ment of this castle. To be sure, the prince had moments when his royal dignity burst bounds, as when he chased a party into the pastry cook's pan- try, and pelted them with flour. Royalty some- times enjoys a primitive sense of humour, the un- dignified quality of such horseplay was shown on the blank faces of his royal followers. Then too, there were occasional whispers of it in the critical press, which is the worst punishment of vulgarism. While the countess entertained the royal prince, at the time being fully aware that her sway was weakened, the new Aspasia, who was not at all a woman of the world, reluctantly spent her evenings at home. She was exquisitely fair, with blue-green eyes, and of course bright red lips. The happiness which she expected from her liaison with royalty —133— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES died almost at its birth. However, she must be remembered in the history of Court scandal as hav- ing played the part of a royal mistress in name at any rate. She was loyal to her royal admirer, and furthermore, she gained the love and respect of other ladies of the Court. Even the countess, often dismissed by historians with curt etiquette, tried to cheer up her existence in after years. She always behaved with sad dignity and gentleness in her trying position. It is not recorded that the Prince of Wales suffered from any shattered ideals. It may be assumed that in the midst of his amours certain refinements expected of royalty were not too scrupulously sustained in his courtships. These reflections, of course, are in retrospect, gathered from information and impressions received from those who were in the heart of things at court dur- ing the regime of the late Queen Victoria and the young Prince of Wales. It was in the summer, when all the world of hu- manity tumbled pell-mell from the reserve of win- ter, that the prince and his consort withdrew to Cowes, a celebrated watering place. It was at Cowes that many of the court intrigues were stirred. It was here that a certain grand duchess of a very cold country fell under the spell of moon- —134— THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H. lit mesmerism. It is recorded that the young prince invited the grand duchess one evening for a sail on his yacht. She slipped away with him, un- attended by any lady-in-waiting, which is a for- bidden act of royalty. Forgetful of all restric- tions, they wandered away, and it is said she told him in an irresponsible moment of feminine thrill- dom that she felt her incognito might place her un- der suspicion. Finally they reached a place at the end of the lawn, where the yacht was supposed to be, in the w r ater beyond, and there was no sign of it. History says there was a dreadful moment of suspense, for she suddenly realised that the grand duke, her husband, was probably in search of her, and grand dukes of cold countries are very choleric. In the midst of this pause, a footman ran breath- lessly towards the prince, and reported that the yacht had been moored a little further down the coast. The grand duchess was soon on deck again. The Prince's fidelity towards the fair sex was always rather delicate. His affair with a cele- brated stage beauty made her notorious in the course of her first year at the Court of St. James, not him. His tactics were those of the sheathed hand. As a man, he was a great patron of art, of literature, of industrial enterprises, and he was al- —135— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES ways able to promote the fortune of the ladies he admired. She, of course, this stage beauty, was enamoured of wealth. Relentless in her relations, she attained a dominance over the prince and his mind that was surprising to lookers-on. Person- ally, she was not very much liked, her mental hori- zon did not extend beyond her innate consciousness of her physical powers. She was unflinching in the face of scandal, though not without the capacity for tremour. She was not entirely exempt from self-deception, knowing well that she often chilled the public that went to see her out of curiosity. She was never a popular idol, like Nell Gwynn of King Charles's times, and she treated her public with a shrug of her beautiful shoulders, of which she was so proud. These were matters, however, which did not disturb His Royal Highness. He never al- lowed any bonds which fettered him to be strained by this stage beauty. She was a human document, written in a cipher which had not been mastered and never solved. Sometimes she was very de- lightful. They were always on friendly terms, even after the break, and sometimes they dined to- gether. I am only writing those impressions that I have gathered of Court life, and drawing conclusions —136— THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H. from the conditions as I find them. Allowances can be reasonably made for His Royal Highness, whose youthful gallantries in his earlier days were not entirely his own fault. How the women pur- sued him with their gaze! How they courtesied when he went about! They followed him really much more than he followed them; he was a man, and sorely tempted. His successes were obviously unavoidable. Sometimes his amours took a tragic trend. Fascinated by the appearance of a charming wo- man, whom he saw crossing the courtyard of St. James's Palace, one day, he sent his valet, an Aus- trian, with a secret message, expressing his admira- tion. There was nothing ambiguous about it, — it was a clear confession of admiration. The lady was not prepared to be seized by royal flattery, but later indicated a house of rendezvous. The secret appointment was kept. This unknown lady, I have heard, was particularly effective in the choice of the fine linen and her crepe de chine petticoats. In discussing her, even her dressing gown, which was of the finest batiste and Valenciennes lace, was spoken of with wonder and admiration by His Royal Highness to a friend. He pleaded for an- other interview, for another chance to see her again. —137— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES Her reply was as sincere a bit of feminine subtlety as one might expect. She told him that until she became enamoured of a prince she had been a very faithful wife to her husband, and that therefore one lapse should not be allowed to become a cus- tomary favour. She reminded him of her sacrifice in keeping the first rendezvous, but His Royal Highness insisted. Finally she invited him to visit her a second time at the house of her sister in Lon- don near Regents Park. The story goes that His Highness went to this house at the appointed time, and found it brilliantly lighted. He knocked at the door but there was no answer. Astonished and baffled, he returned to the street where a young man brushed against him. "I have called to see Madame R.," he said. "She is dead!" said the young man. It is said that His Royal Highness went to a great deal of trouble to get to the bottom of her mysterious death, without success. It was ru- moured, however, that she was poisoned by her hus- band, who had discovered the liaison with the prince. I presume that often His Royal Highness poured out his confessions to his friend, Lord Far- quhar, who was his chum, but in later years, in the —138— THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H. newer responsibilities of the throne, His Majesty became more orderly, more subdued. During all his reign, which was far too short, he was seldom in a rage. With the exception of the famous inci- dent which relates to the indiscretion of a lady of the stage, who dropped a piece of ice down his back at a banquet, King Edward never lost his temper. I do not believe he ever hated any one. He was sometimes a little undecided, but he always deferred difficulties to the future. Not that he lacked the courage to face the music, but that he was wise. Not all the ladies of the court were so graciously willing to submit to his royal gallantries. There was one charming young aristocratic girl, who, fearing the fascination of His Royal pursuit, threatened to immure herself in a convent for safety. She confessed this desire to her mother, and gave her reasons. Her mother said this to her: "If you were some old woman, who had only a few years to live, your desire to enter a convent would not be so unusual. But, for a lovely girl like yourself, pure and unattached, to enter a con- vent so as to flee from a future king, is too ridicu- lous. Has his conversation ever caused you any scruples, my dear? It's all nonsense. Continue —139— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES to live in society, continue to cherish all his kind- nesses, and be happy." This incident actually confirmed the impression that His Royal Highness made upon the ladies of his court, or the impressions they made for him. I am inclined to think there were some exaggerations. There were certain modesties about the Prince of Wales that seemed to contradict any deep instinct for dissipation in him. For instance, he was ab- normally fond of lemon cheese-cakes, a very harm- less passion, although they were called, in defer- ence to the prince's taste, "Maids of Honour." He was rather an epicure in pastry. He very much preferred the English sort, however. These facts were discovered about His Royal Highness because when people invited him out they wanted to know what were his favourite dishes. He disliked long dinners, and sometimes, to avoid indigestion, he requested the privilege of making the menu him- self. But above all things he enjoyed a good din- ner, and a good cigar, the Vally-Vally or a Bock being his favourite brand. He was usually short of ready money, and was always assisted by his friends, the late Baron Hirsch and Sassoon. The prince and these two gentlemen made an enchant- ing trio, well known about London. —140— THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H. I do not think that these habits of the young prince ever entirely left him during his reign. There was always a feigned boyishness, an irre- sponsible smile about King Edward VII. He seemed to be looking at the world with tolerant amusement. It is said that he often told his inti- mate friends, that his greatest wish was some day to become president of the Republic of Great Brit- ain. He was too intelligent a man to enjoy the pomp and splendour with which his rank was sur- rounded. The Prince of Wales was tone-giving, to belong to his set was the social ambition of Lon- don. I am more familiar, of course, with his later years, that is to say from the time of his marriage, than I could be with his early youth. As a man, the Prince of Wales disciplined him- self for his reign as King of England, to some ex- tent. He did not allow state affairs to enter into his private life. He was distinctly autocratic, do- ing exactly what he chose, and permitting no inter- ference of any sort that was likely to be a stumbling block to what he had in view for an hour, for a day, or for a month. Naturally, most of his engage- ments were made for him. Every morning his secretary would go up to the private suite of His Royal Highness, a bed room and sitting room. In —141— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES the latter room stood a Stock Exchange ticker, giv- ing quotations of every bourse in the world. The sitting room was more like a private office, con- taining a huge desk adorned by all the portraits of his family. The environment was simple but dis- tinguished. In the bed room there was a little low iron bed, on which His Majesty slept. It was most unlike an apartment of the king. In the outer corridor, of course, there were nu- merous pages walking up and down, being ready to announce any possible visitors. The private reti- nue of the Princess of Wales, now the Dowager Queen Alexandra of England, were all Danish. The retinue of the Prince of Wales were all Ger- man. These men, who were affable and well-bred servants, passed their lifetime with their Royal Highnesses. They were so devoted that one can hardly believe they were servants. The simplicity of the private apartments of royalty was certainly in great contrast to the magnificence of the recep- tion hall and staircases of the palace. I recall once being obliged to wait rather a long time to see Her Majesty Queen Alexandra because it happened there was a great dinner party being given at the time. I was asked to share the good things of this royal banquet, and all the dishes which were passed —142— THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H. to the royal dining room, I tasted. I was served with the same food as the king and queen and their royal guests. It took all my moral force to escape the temptation of pocketing one of those exquisite little gold coffee cups with Apostle spoons and sugar tongs representing Medusa. In my position as Court dressmaker I was, of course, given many privileges in certain opportuni- ties to meet royalties, and I was once offered a large sum of money by a woman of social ambi- tions to sit in my fitting room for one day. The disguise would have been quite possible, but it was a trick which would have been considered lese- majeste. There were many women in London society who seemed to be hemmed in, irresistibly restrained from great social position, but who were very rich. There was Mrs. Claude W , who had been one of the popular actresses at the Gaiety Theatre in London, in the time of Nellie Farren. She was a woman whose refinement of appearance would have made her an ornament of elegance and beauty to any society. She was quite admired by many of the cavaliers who surrounded His Royal High- ness. She dressed most extravagantly, and I was told she owed her dressmaker in Paris at one time —143— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES over five thousand pounds. Of course her husband was the son of a rich brewer. He inherited mil- lions, so that his wife lived in so lavish a manner that she was the talk of London, where, by the way, there was a great deal of extravagance. Colossal fortunes were spent on jewels and ornaments that dazzled the rich and the envious. The grand tier of boxes at Covent Garden during the opera sea- son was quite as brilliant as the horse-shoe at the Metropolitan in New York. Most of the wealth of London society in these days, when the Prince of Wales revolutionised the customs of Queen Vic- toria, was represented by American women. There was the daughter of Mrs. Bradley Mar- tin, Lady Craven, whose jewels were superb, and who very often had with her her little friend, Mrs. Sam Newhouse, an American woman who had glori- ous pearls. People shot up the social ladder in Lon- don society at this time as fast as their money could lift them. Perhaps the example which His Royal Highness gave to society at this time made it a little more decadent. Under the mantle of Queen Victoria's reign there was no room for the liberties which were inaugurated by the prince. There were embarrassing moments, or at least opportunities for them in the rooms of a fashionable dressmaker, — H4— THE GALLANTRIES OF H. R. H. Frequently, through mistake, a bill for a gown, not intended for the wife, would accidentally reach her. It might be for a copy of the identical gown which she was wearing. Then there was that delightful little community that lived in St. John's Woods, the particular quarter in London where tired husbands telephoned their wives that they would be detained at the of- fice. Deviltry was in the air, from the time the Prince of Wales took the reins of London society in his hands. It even demoralised such intellectual giants as Lord Beaconsfield and Mr. Gladstone. Gladstone had tremendous brain-power, several times refused the peerage, and had a home life of high ideals. He was, however, particularly fond of the ladies, and often stopped on his way home from parliament in front of a celebrated shop win- dow in London, where the pictures of the reigning beauties were always in evidence. When Mrs. Asquith, who was Miss Tennant, was married, Mr. Gladstone wrote her a letter of congratulation which created a good deal of satirical comment. "It is my fervent prayer," he wrote, "that you shall always be the recipient of as much love as it is possible for a gentleman to give you." Mr. Gladstone was never a favourite of Queen —145— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES Victoria's, although she was a Tory, but kings and queens cannot show favouritism. One man, however, stands out in my recollections of this early period of the Prince of Wales's social reign, the Duke of Northumberland. He was the tallest man in the realm, and founded a peculiar religious sect called Unionists. Their religious leaders were called Elders, and their doctrine was the enlightenment of charity and love in its purest form. The Duke of Northumberland was one of the most celebrated men of this time. Lord Percy, his eldest son, was accidentally killed in Paris. His mother was a sister of the late Duke of Argyle. It is a world of perpetual change, and little re- mains of so many things in London which were talked about at that time. —146— CHAPTER VI BRIDES AND WEDDING GOWNS OF THE COURT OF ST. JAMES London in the early eighties was famous for the extravagance and daring of the toilettes worn by- its beautiful women. It was at this time I made the trousseau of the only daughter of the Countess de Galve, the Honourable Mrs. Stanhope. It was the most extravagant trousseau that had been made in London up to that time, and many people came to get a glimpse of it. All the lingerie was trimmed with priceless real lace, and of each article there were six dozen. The bride was a beauty of an absolutely Russian type. She was very well formed, rather tall, and had many accomplish- ments. She painted well, she was a fine musician, a brilliant conversationalist. The wedding gown was of real lace, point d' Alencon, with forget-me- nots and lilies-of-the-valley. The bride's aunt, the Princess Souvaroff, appeared at the wedding in royal purple and orange velvet. She had been one of the famous beauties of the Second Empire. —147— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES Even the Prince of Wales came to look at and ad- mire this marvellous collection of feminine crea- tions, the news of their fabulous cost having reached his ears. "Where in the world did you conceive these dainty impressions? What a happy mortal you must be to be allowed to study the beautiful things so near," said His Royal Highness. The Countess de Galve, the bride's mother, was so delighted with the result of my work that in token of her appreciation she gave me a superb dia- mond and sapphire marquise ring. This trousseau was the most expensive I ever made, almost regal, for it ran into four figures. It was shortly after this that I made the wedding gown for the two lovely daughters of the Countess of Leitrim, who were married within a day of each other. They were their Ladyships Winifred Ren- shaw and Lady Vivian. They were each of them different types of English beauty, but they were both tall, erect, and distingue. Their bridal gowns were of white satin charmeuse, with bridesmaids en suite in palest rose. They were married in St. Peter's Church, which is famous for its beautiful choir. Lady Vivian, soon after her marriage, be- came a widow, and I believe married again. Both —148— BRIDES AND WEDDING GOWNS these girls were good sports, and had been wonder- fully brought up to open air life. Their late father was a victim of the Irish feud, and was shot on their own property. Her Ladyship, the Countess of Leitrim, was a daughter of that celebrated sports- man, Lord Leicester. Her sisters all married peers of England. There is a romance attached to the history of Lord Leicester's eldest son, who disappeared from England and has never been heard of since. These mysterious cupboards that hold family skeletons are pretty liberally scattered among the rich and powerful. The fame of these trousseaux spread, and it be- came the vogue for brides of this period to come to me. Among the many brides I prepared for the altar there was none more charming than the pretty Countess of Arran, a Dutch girl, who cre- ated quite a furore as a bride. She was the real type of Holland beauty, tall and blonde. Her husband was a great contrast to her, being a sturdy man, a typical country squire of the old style. She is living to-day upon her property in Ireland. She was a very democratic, congenial girl, spoke many languages very well, was a good horsewoman, and her favourite idea of colour in her mode of dress was pastel. She has become thoroughly English, her —149— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES mother being an English woman, the daughter of the late Sir Bowden of Australia, who was very wealthy. One exquisite toilette I made for her, I particularly remember, was of lilac crepe de chine, trimmed with the most valuable Bucking- hamshire lace. A court train gown of amethyst velvet lined with sura, trimmed with huge pansies and lilacs. Among all the brides of my acquaintance, how- ever, there was never one like Rachel Gurney, now the Countess of Dudley. She was an epoch-mak- ing bride. Rachel Gurney was a beauty of the dark type, and a musician of note. She played the harp di- vinely, and had the most enchanting voice. She was comparatively poor and was brought up by the Marchioness of Tavistock, now Adeline, Duch- ess of Bedford, a most beautiful woman, who dressed always in perfect taste. Her sister, Laura Gurney, now Lady Trowbridge, who is much ad- mired for her literary taste, was brought up by her Aunt, Lady Henry Somerset, well known in America. Their mother, who was a sister of the late Countess Somers, was also a real beauty. When through the business failure of her late hus- band, fortune proved fickle, she too entered the —150— QUEEN MARY This photograph, showing Queen Mary in her magnificent Coronation Robe, was given to the author as an expression of Her Majesty's appreciation of her art. The gown was of satin, richly embroidered, and demanded the utmost originality and skill on the part of its designer. BRIDES AND WEDDING GOWNS field of fashion as a modiste, until she married again. I shall never forget the excitement with which Lady Dudley rushed in upon me one day to decide upon a gown for her engagement supper party. "Do tell me what I shall wear to-night," she pleaded, The solution was a simple mousseline, with a ba- tiste sash of orange. She was very dark, with a glorious figure, and she was an accomplished musi- cian and linguist. Still, people were surprised that she should have made such a grand match with Lord Dudley, and there was a great deal of feeling of jealousy and envy. Lillian, Countess of Cromartie, the mother of Lady Stuart Richardson, who made such a sensa- tion in America in her barefoot dancing, was one of the most charming, delightful women whom I took the greatest delight in dressing. Neither Lady Stuart Richardson, her daughter, nor the younger Lady Cromartie, who married Major Blount, could ever hold a candle to their beautiful mother, Lillian, Countess of Cromartie. Even now, though her hair is perfectly white, she retains her fascinating dimples, and that wonderful skin of marble purity and whiteness. I should regard —151— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES her to-day as a singularly beautiful and attractive woman, with charming manners that have made her admired and adored everywhere. She was the daughter of the Lord of the Isle (MacDonald), a very old and historical family. She had a special photograph taken for me in one of my gowns, in appreciation of my talent. Another lovely creature was the Countess of Faversham, the mother of that trio of famous beau- ties, the late Duchess of Leinster, Lady Howard Vincent, and Lady Marie Duncombe. She had a personality that was very much above the average of English beauty. At a very early age her hair turned snow white, which gave her a proud and distant demeanour. Her natural re- serve prevented many people in a measure from appreciating her, but my personal intercourse with her was always adorable. I made a court gown for her in a new shade at that time, known as chaudron velvet, almost copper-colour. It was trimmed with priceless lace, and the mantle that hung from both shoulders was of deep bronze velvet fastened with two huge rubies. She presented a very sensational appearance at Court, and King Edward compli- mented her most impressively. She sleeps now with other famous beauties who have passed away, —152— BRIDES AND WEDDING GOWNS with her late husband, but there are many Dukes and Princes who have survived her, who are still singing her praises. Those lovely English women were supreme, and one looks in vain to-day for such elegance and beauty. Those English women were famous for perfect poise. Miss Agnes Keyser, known now as Sister Agnes, was always admired for her sylphlike figure. She used to be one of the most beautifully gowned women in London. Since the outbreak of the war she has spent her wealth lavishly in a good cause. To see her to-day in the simple but extremely be- coming garb of a Sister of the Red Cross, one can- not help remembering how brilliantly she adorned the gay world of London. She has received nu- merous decorations, and she was among those celeb- rities who had entree to King Edward's corona- tion. Her house in Grosvenor Gardens has been converted into a hospital for wounded soldiers. Not far from me in Wilton Crescent, lived Mrs. G. K., who was devotedly admired by His Majesty King Edward VII. She was intellectual and fas- cinating long before she became celebrated at Court. After the birth of her first baby she sent to me for some tea gowns. —153— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES "Not too expensive, and as pretty as possible," was her message. I sent her several which pleased her, and in later years, when she did not need to economise so much, I had the pleasure of making her some very elaborate and beautiful costumes. She was a very spirituelle type, and of such bril- liant wit that while it brought her the adoration of her friends it made many enemies for her. Her entertainments in her mansion in Grosvenor Place were thronged with smart and important people, who came to see and to be seen. It was of Mrs. George Keppel that the story was told of a bit of repartee aimed at her by a burglar. It is claimed that she discovered a burglar in her bedroom one night. "What are you doing under my bed?" she asked the burglar. "I am looking for a sovereign," replied the bur- glar. There are so many little anecdotes that one is tempted to spice this reminiscence food with, that might be as salt to the palate. I hope I may be forgiven for occasionally flavouring my story with them. One is naturally interested in anything that may bring us closer to those charming and beau- tiful women, who always improve upon acquain- —154— BRIDES AND WEDDING GOWNS tance. But I must heed the advice of Lady Teazle in "School for Scandal," who, when she left the room, said: "Ladies, I go, but I leave my character with you." —155— CHAPTER VII A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR The history of the great beauty and power over His Royal Highness of the beautiful Countess of W has been more or less inaccurately told, and, I may add, with more or less distortions. Among other women during the period of her reign, I knew her very well, and I am not among those who share the opinion that she was entirely cold blooded and vain in her devotion to His Majesty. She was herself an aristocrat, a woman of fine blood and feeling. Her father was an English officer, her mother of the English nobility. She had only one sister, not quite so distinguished, perhaps, as her- self, but a woman who by marriage and her own right enjoyed a good deal of social prominence in London. Their father, who was one of the richest land owners in England, almost a triple million- aire, left them a large fortune, which they spent royally. The countess was extremely beautiful. As a young girl her complexion and her hair were —156— A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR faultless. She had a perfectly divine figure, a most charming disposition, and was unusually clever and witty. Her husband, a peer in the realm and an officer of the Life Guards, was a very handsome man, of the dark type, and they made an ideal cou- ple. Her son is now at the front. He too is mar- ried. Quite early in her career this beautiful wo- man was christened among her friends, "The Dar- ling of the Gods." This is not so many years ago but perhaps it seems to be so because so many per- sonalities and events have blurred the memories. The countess to-day is a very strikingly handsome woman, and has fully sustained the dignity of her past romance. I call it romance because I sin- cerely believe that it was. Aside from my own opinion, there is much reason for confirming it in the fact that Queen Victoria, the Duchess of Teck, in fact all the blood-ties of royalty, did their best to justify the affair on the grounds of unalloyed friendship. Queen Victoria received her very gra- ciously at court, even when society at large did not treat her quite correctly. The Duchess of Teck said to me once, in reference to the amour of the beautiful countess and the late king, "There is nothing in all this scandal. He likes her very much, as he does many others, — and that is all." —157— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES As a matter of fact it is time that the truth about this romance be published. The fact is that the countess was very deeply attached to her sovereign, and he very deeply reciprocated her feeling. She became his constant companion, entirely by mutual desire, and wherever he went the countess would be asked also. There was a certain regardlessness about their constant companionship, and of course it so happened (as it always does happen among followers of royalty) that the society of the court pursued them with all the zest and curiosity of a pack of hounds on the hunt for prey. A romance between a king and a beautiful countess was con- sidered big game, and in the midst of the gaieties in which they shared, they managed to watch, to draw conclusions, to bestow their criticism upon the two who were most concerned. The scandal, I believe, was largely created by those who make a specialty of it, although there were plenty of rea- sons for romantic gossip. Neither His Royal Highness nor the Countess seemed to pay the slightest attention to criticism which must have reached her if it did not influence him. We can take into account, with absolute assurance, the fact that they were intellectually companionable. Their social tastes were the same, their likes and dislikes —158— A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR among people, places, and amusement were very similar. His Royal Highness was particularly fond of music, and there was a great deal of it at court. All through his life one of the Prince's chief pleasures was music. The countess really was a great musician, and this I think was a bond of sympathy and understanding between them. Her beauty was really so startling and so perfect that there were innumerable portraits in oil made of her by famous painters, and there were also many rude drawings and caricatures made for the benefit of her friends. These caricatures were not always of a character to inspire good taste, — but these artists did not attempt to immortalise her beauty in them, they were probably willing to leave that for others. One may cavil at the redundancy of treatment, at the flamboyant style in which some of these portraits were made, and one could smile at the weaker and puerile adulations suggested when the countess was painted in the form of some classic and symbolic figure, as a goddess perhaps. There was, of course, every excuse for these exag- gerations because of the splendid opulence both of form and colour which she unassailably presented. She was a luxurious beauty, with a fine taste in art. Her sumptuous castle was filled with ex- —159— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES quisite marble statuary. Her parties in the coun- try were glorious. Her gardens were veritable retreats for Cupid, filled with grottoes, with yew trees, trimmed in all sorts of grotesque figures. A charming, restful spot. In her beautiful castle was a miniature theatre in case the peace of heaven which surrounded these beautiful gardens and the distant landscape should become tiresome to the guests. Usually, there was a delicious stillness in the ah*, broken alone by the songbirds in the shrub- bery, or the music of the fountains in the distance. The castle itself became a show place, and people flocked to see it, especially when upon great occa- sion the grounds were gloriously illuminated. The people themselves, as royalty described them some- times, the common people, paid the beautiful coun- tess great homage. In fact, the ladies of the court, of her own age, and those of a more delightful old age, assumed a discreet ignorance of her many amours. The conversation about her was always associated with intellectual and literary qualities. The countess herself was a woman of many gifts. Her earlier years were passed in a married life that was unassailable, peaceful, cultivated. She was an out-door woman, a splendid horsewoman, and —160— A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR she loved dogs. She was rather imperious, in fact insolent, sometimes, and intolerant. Escoffier, the famous chef, who cooked so many remarkable dishes for the royal palace, was some- thing of a philosopher. No doubt he saw a good deal of the real romance, for it was the custom of the king to go with the countess into the kitchen, to be tempted there by some mysterious invention of Escoffier's. It was on one of these occasions that Escoffier is credited with saying to His Maj- esty something that sounds cynical: "God no doubt must have repented 01 haviftg made man, but he could never have done so for hav- ing made woman," he said. I am told that the re- lations between these two wonderful world figures, the countess and the king, were really profoundly idealistic. His Majesty called the countess, "My heart," and the countess, in her most intimate mood towards the king, called him "My soul." They would take long walks together in the grounds of the castle, and at the end of the walk they would disappear into the kitchen, where Escoffier would give them extraordinary refreshment. Of course, the prince was delighted, entertained, and full of admiration for this beautiful woman. These were the days when she was in high favour. He was so —161— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES completely flattered that he ignored her little short- comings, and listened sometimes to the amusing stories concerning gossip of the court, which he could tell better than anyone else. The people were talking a great deal at this time about His Royal Highness and the countess, and a good deal of this criticism must have disturbed her, for it af- fected the future of her son and her daughter. Still, to a certain extent, fearful of some outside in- fluence that should bear down upon her and disturb her royal romance, she realised that she could not expect a moral inspiration from the illicit love af- fair with the king. Besides, she was so fond of admiration and of power, she was so dominant, and followed always the precepts of convention only in a spirit of defiance, that it was only in after years she realised perhaps that it would have been better had she chosen to be more moderate. Her keen intuition served her well in scattering the possible rivals of her romance as they came along. It was with reluctance she assumed this position in the bat- tle of sentiment against other women. The misery of thought which the end of this romance brought to her is something that the world at large has not given her credit for. She was only defeated in her romance because owing to her rank and posi- —162— A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR tion she wished to avoid public scandal. An aris- tocratic woman, she was also a loving woman, and because she was an aristocrat she dared not fret at the change which came over her romance, and she steeled herself against the disaster of time and years. There was not a more popular man in England than the Prince of Wales. He was kind- hearted to a fault, and in this weakness of virtue, his liaison with the countess became no longer so satisfactory. I am afraid His Royal Highness was a true butterfly of fashion. There is perhaps no better proof of the sincerity and depth of feeling which the countess had for His Royal Highness, than the following anecdote, be- cause it confirms the hurt which a woman feels when the man she loves fails in respect to her. It is recorded that His Royal Highness entered the room where she was, unannounced, and rather has- tily. "What on earth is the matter, sir, you frightened me," the countess said. "I cannot be so particular," said the prince peev- ishly, and his brusque manner and conduct startled her. His manner was definite but distinctly with- out sentiment. He said to her something like this : "You and I have always been great chums, and —163— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES you have been very good to me, thoroughly reliable, as sincere as any man friend could have been." This was not the manner of love, and the coun- tess, regarding it as a humorous mood, attempted to laugh it off. "Why all these compliments, there must be an- other motive." She became restless, surmising what was to come. His Royal Highness rang for tea, — not a powerful restorative, but an excuse for boredom. Then, with a winning smile, he lighted a cigarette and began a course of conversation in which he had no doubt become expert through many previous experiences of the same sort. The countess displayed the disaster to her feelings which this situation created, and she also realised that her display of feeling was exasperating to His Royal Highness. It dawned upon her that sooner or later some great scandal would add to the bit- terness of her disappointment, which he made clear to her. His Royal Highness left, and to a friend the countess described the shuddering loneliness which overcame her as she saw the beginning of the end. The crisis came soon. The countess started violent flirtations, knowing well that a famous ac- tress had supplanted her. To His Royal High- ness the incident was only one of many drawing —164— A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR room intrigues, and served to give a little zest to his existence. Perhaps he may, or he may not have discerned the sincerity of her passion and her love for him, but he was coldly though charmingly ir- responsive. I am sure that the countess thought in the prince she had met her fate, and in accepting the end of this romance, she expressed a gratitude for knowing that it had not been true before it was too late. Beautiful and idealistic as the motive of a woman in love may be, the failure of them always brings an ugly end. So the beautiful countess be- came the target of outrageous slander and unspar- ing scandal. Even after the separation had been generally known and accepted, even though mis- representation and calumny had somewhat blurred the true memory, I believe that love such as these two felt was really a most uncommon devotion. Because of its truth and beauty, it created great jealousies, many misunderstandings among the stupid public, and the countess was obliged to suf- fer the revenge of the world against the woman who had been happy in spite of herself. Most of the stories were false, most of them were cruel lies, but how could they be denied? The countess did not see fit to give proof of these calumnies, nor would have deigned to do so. —165— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES I recall the many times it was my pleasure to see the beautiful countess in recent years, and she gave me the impression that she harboured no ill-will. She was perhaps cognisant of the fact that His Royal Highness, to say the least, had piqued her. She was also conscious that the field over which she had reigned with such personal pleasure and glory was now open to all comers. She retired most graciously, most gracefully. With fine diplomacy she poured oil on the troubled waters of her ro- mance, but she was continually looking out for an occasion to revenge herself upon the woman who had supplanted her. The latter's only crime was to do exactly what His Royal Highness desired above all things, which the beautiful countess her- self had so generously permitted. Then too, the countess really had no reason to challenge her rival's affection for the prince on grounds that she had deserted another man for him. The spirit of revenge, however, expressed itself violently one day in the hunting field adjoining the magnificent castle. Both the countess and her rival were in the party. It was a glorious autumnal morning, the air was crisp with that invigorating atmosphere. The countess was riding leisurely out of her grounds to the meet, when in the distance she saw —166— A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR His Royal Highness talking and laughing, and especially attentive to his new love. For some time he had been bestowing his attention upon two peer- esses but he had transferred them recently to the little marchioness who reciprocated his sentiment most graciously. It was this charming little court beauty whom the countess saw from a distance. She urged her horse furiously forward, and rode pellmell upon the marchioness. The horses clashed and the riding whips flung in the air just as the lances of old did their havoc among the warriors of England. His Royal Highness rushed between them, and after much difficulty succeeded in sep- arating the ladies. The countess in a measure was defeated and the little marchioness had the field to herself. Some time later the marchioness lost her foot through an accident in a motor in Paris. I believe that this accident has not deprived her of her charm or her beauty. She still rides superbly, and was most happy and contented when I last saw her. The scar across her face which the coun- tess' riding whip inflicted soon healed, but the scar in the heart of the countess still prevails, I fear. This episode considerably chastened the gossips, to say nothing of the spirit of the countess. But the marchioness also became extremely careful, for —167— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES the countess had made it clear that she would never forgive her rival's temerity. The countess will remain in the memory of those who saw her from a distance, and of those who knew her well, as one of the most lovable creatures among the beautiful women of the Court of St. James. Of course, the exquisite laces and frou- frous which it was my privilege to create for the countess were of such an alluring character that they would have assured the surrender of any man, beggar or king. She affected clinging, filmy nothings of great price, and her charms were greatly enhanced by the least possible artifice of the dressmaker. She moved with such wonderful grace that her presence was always a sensation. The footprints of great men who pursued the countess will probably never be entirely obliterated, although the winds of time have scattered them a little. She had a wild and vivid experience with great men who were stern but weak. She scalped most of them with supreme art. Who can tell what cards a woman plays, since she rarely plays them openly. The king of hearts may often be well hidden, or he may be the joker, or the knave; if the game was worth the candle, it does not mat- ter. One thing I have observed that women of the —168— A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR aristocracy who become involved in secret romance, hold their own better than any other class of women. The "fallen" aristocrat never steps from her pedestal of aristocracy, she never tumbles with broken bones, only with a few shattered illusions, which have not affected her self-respect. Such a woman was the countess, whose sensa- tional romance with the Prince of Wales made the world of gossip swing a little faster, especially the society world of London and of England. Did they count the consequences, I wonder, or care about them? I very much doubt it. Certainly His Royal Highness did not suffer very greatly, for his tastes had the surprising indifference of variety. In his romantic episodes one could easily take him for Henry IV or Louis XIV. None of the women of the Court of St. James, whom I gowned, frequently for the special delight of His Royal Highness, were comparable for inspiration to the beautiful coun- tess. It was like receiving an order to fill the heart as well as the eye of the king, to prepare the beauti- ful countess in a toilette he would admire. One gown I remember in particular because His Royal Highness pronounced it as the prettiest bit of daintiness the countess ever wore. It was the most —169— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES superb Duchess satin of grey pearl with a corsage a la Louis XV in the palest rose colour miroir vel- vet. Square collar of batiste with an edging of point de Flanders, and the corsage was held with buttons of coral and diamonds. The ceinture was of black moire scniple. With this Her Ladyship wore a large picture Leghorn hat trimmed with a garland of (Baroness de Rothschild) roses, grey suede shoes with diamond buckles a la Cromwell, a parasol entirely made of rose leaves, with a han- dle of corals, and her monogram in diamonds on the stick. Her mantelet was indeed wonderful, it was entirely of grey pearl chiffon ninon, the entire lining being rose leaves which fluttered in the wind and when walking gave the most wonderful effect. She certainly looked superb. I copied it for an- other grande dame of the Court in white and lilac. Of course, the wearer of this second edition was less interesting but more important, if such a thing could be possible. A tea gown which I made for the Countess was perhaps the most beautiful thing I ever put forth from my house. It was a copy adopted from Queen Victoria's coronation toilette. The under- garment Avas in the finest white crepe de chine with —170— A ROYAL LOVE AFFAIR an overmantle of the finest Burano lace with em- broideries of topaz, opals and chains of pearls, with a clasp, which held the mantle on the breast, of emeralds, turquoise, rubies and uncut sapphires. -171 CHAPTER VIII AUTHORS AND ACTORS OF KING EDWARD'S REIGN Musical comedy has been the nursery of many peerages, the cradle of many aristocratic wives who were chosen from the chorus. The ballet and the refined burlesque were the theatrical food upon which the aristocracy of England flourished. There are still many who remember those stars of the earlier days of the Prince of Wales. There were Nellie Farren, Lydia Thompson, Violet Cam- eron, Florence St. John, Lettv Lind. To these meteors of this early period of the theatre within my recollection, were applied the slang compli- ments of the period. These ladies were, for in- stance, "Tophole," they were "Swishy." It was one of the joys of life to hear them sing and dance such little ditties as: "I am a swell, You can tell, And behave, of course, as such, —172— AUTHORS AND ACTORS Close cut hair, Elbows square, With my toothpick and my crutch." It was after the theatre that those delightful lit- tle supper parties were held at Cremorne Garden, or at the Argyle Rooms. At these parties the Prince of Wales would attend incognito. Later, when he was king, and the formalities of his rank had to be fulfilled, his aide-de-camp would wire or telephone to the box office, and the royal box would be reserved for him. Usually it was decorated with a bouquet of flowers, so that the public always knew at once that the performance would be graced by the king and queen, or the royalty. At Covent Garden, where grand opera was given, there was always a royal box exclusively reserved, and the omnibus box, as it was called, where His Majesty invited all his intimate friends to join him or call upon him between the acts. The king was always most punctilious to arrive at the beginning, and to remain till the end. But the opera had always been the centre of social glory and splendour, whether in London or in New York. I am convinced that modern beauty will never compare favourably with those regal ancestors of —173— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES hers, who passed in and out of my salon in the House of Frederic. It is my regret, that one no longer encounters those convincing beauties of ele- gance and charm of the last century, who remain so vividly in my mind. I observe to-day that the rage for beauty, vul- garly expressed, is "flapper" type. They at least do not require much study to gown them. The immature and inchoate baby type is far from convincing, and requires little exertion from an artist in dress. In America the "flapper" type has perhaps been more fully recognised than in Europe. American taste in dress seems to pan- der to all the senses, keeping in view the fads and fancies of the hour, leaving what might be called the real artistic business of dress to take care of itself. Perhaps the theatres have something to do with this deterioration of good taste and beauty. Years ago, even chorus girls in such plays as the famous Gaiety Theatre in London provided, were aristocratic in appearance. Many of them mar- ried into the British aristocracy, but the "flapper" type was not among them. I remember well in the early eighties, when the artists of the Comedie Francaise first came to Lon- don, when Moliere came to salute Shakespeare. —174— AUTHORS AND ACTORS What a bouquet of glorious women! The divine Sarah, willowy and slender, with her golden voice, appeared in "Phedre," wearing those pure white robes draped in classical folds. She impressed herself upon my mind as a classical fig- ure. I never could or would admit that she looked as well in modern garments as in her gorgeous Greek or Roman vestments. Her whole personal- ity seemed to change with modern dress; that sub- tle, glorious, sphinx-like movement, seemed ham- pered in up-to-date lines. The divine Sarah, though the greatest actress in the world, has her weaknesses and her shadows. She is absolutely one of the most extravagant and most marvellous creatures of the century. Noth- ing daunted her; lions and tigers were her com- panions, for years she travelled with her coffin. These may be fictitious facts, but they establish her originality and capability. She designed most of her gowns herself. They were scrupulously car- ried out under her direction. The embroideries, for instance, of her darling "Fedora" were really great works of art. I saw them in the making at a famous embroidery house in Paris, where I had gone to choose some designs. The "Fedora" gowns were exquisite, the jewels alone used in them LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES being valued at 20,000 francs. One gown was de- signed exactly upon the principle of a Cardinal's vestment. In private life, Sarah is as emotional as she is on the stage. She adores her son, whose father, it is said, is a Prince. Every one knows how intensely patriotic the great actress is, and when the Kaiser finally succeeded in persuading her to come to Berlin, she could not restrain her feelings. "Of course," she said, "great minds must meet sooner or later." How well these great minds each have played their part, how fantastically they are the creatures of wonder of the age! Both have stirred the hemi- sphere, one upon the stage in theatrical drama, and one upon the world's stage in a stupendous drama in history. Who will receive the greatest applause of humanity at large when these two world figures make their final bow? You must forgive me the little cynicisms that will creep into my narrative, in spite of all I can do to restrain criticism. Perhaps I dwell too much upon personality, expect too much of it, but I speak from experience and not surmise. The animal charm of Croizette, one of the beau- ties of the Comedie Francaise, excited an extrava- gance in dress that I deplored. Her physique, en- —176— AUTHORS AND ACTORS hancing as it did her toilettes, created extravagant admiration of her among a class of women who dwell upon dress and its accessories as a sort of sacrament of beauty, a religion. Croizette mar- ried the rich banker, Monsieur Jules Stern, which was a desirable apotheosis to her brilliant life, but she was always too extravagant. All women are not in position to give full swing to their extrava- gance, and therefore Croizette was a visible tempta- tion to them. There are many women for whom simple garments are more refined than the spec- tacular clothes, and yet not less costly. A piece of point de Flanders or point de Venise, an old world batiste used as a fichu, with a taupe crepe de chine gown, will often run to three figures. Most of these women of the Comedie Francaise were really great artists, however, and one cannot speak of them with anything but a sense of grati- tude for their devotion to their great work. There was Madame Baretta, charming Baretta, the tragic death of whose only son practically ended her career. She withdrew from the world after this, and lived only a few years longer, to the sor- row of those who adored her. As my establishment was in London, it was my privilege, naturally, to gown many of the cele- —177— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES brated English actresses of to-day and yesterday. Lady George Alexander, wife of Sir George Alexander, of the St. James Theatre, London, was a delight to a dressmaker, because she had the greatest talent for dress herself. When she was still Mrs. George Alexander, and together we were choosing the colour schemes and styles for a new production, she always had abnormally bright ideas of her own, which happily enough we were able to carry out to perfection. She always dressed ex- quisitely; it was inherited from her French blood, and her influence dominated the good clothes of the numerous plays that were so successfully produced at the St. James Theatre. Lady Alexander would spend days in my estab- lishment, rummaging over the most lovely mate- rials, laces, embroideries, embroidered batistes and trimmings. These were very hilarious occasions for us both, and our laughter very often disturbed one or another of the grand ladies waiting in my reception room, and who were formally and pa- tiently awaiting their turns to be attended to. Miss Marion Terry, I recall also as one of my very charming customers, Miss Eva Moore, Miss Granville, and Miss Julie Opp, who were all mem- bers of the company at the St. James Theatre. —178— AUTHORS AND ACTORS Sir George Alexander came over himself one day to see me, and paid a very graceful compliment when he said that he understood why Her Ladyship spent so much time with me. It was in the early eighties that Lady Beerbohm Tree, then Mrs. Tree, first came to me. She was then not quite so distinguished in her style and mode as she is to-day, but I remember she liked my gowns. To-day her great friends, the Duchess of Rutland and Lady Marjorie Manners, have adopted styles of individual gowning, which have failed to convince the modern woman, however, who is apt to consider them eccentric. The success of the gowns I made for the produc- tion of Oscar Wilde's play, "Lady Windermere's Fan," in London, brought about an overwhelming business for me in the theatrical world. This was a production made at the Haymarket Theatre by Sir Beerbohm Tree. Lady Tree was one of those esthetic looking women, with a very definite indi- viduality. Neither of her daughters resemble her in the least. Her eldest daughter, I understand, has returned to the stage, notwithstanding the fact that she married well, and for love. Miss Fay Davis and Miss Granville, of St. James Theatre, were among the beauties of dis- —179— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES tinctly English style. Miss Davis, who was very distingue looking, became a very great favourite in London, acting many years for St. George Alex- ander. The gowns I created for her she wore with a great deal of distinction. I can still see her in a white tulle ball gown, very full, with fringes of iridescent pearls showered like dewdrops. Miss Granville made a sensation in a princess robe of orange velvet mousseline embroidered with dia- monds. I subsequently made a copy of this gown, which I designed for Miss Granville, for Her Majesty the Queen of England, in blue Sevres and variegated blue stones. Pretty little Eva Moore, who married Henry Esmond, the playwright (perhaps because she knew that he would write such charming plays for her), was a spoiled child of the English theatre- going public, as were her sisters. She was very dainty and very pretty. I remember trying on a little grass-green linen gown I had made for her, to be worn in her husband's play, "The Wilder- ness." "They will surely make a meal of me," she said laughingly. "Yes," I said, "if you dare to go too near the —180— AUTHORS AND ACTORS footlights they might take you for a delicious cab- bage in cream." I believe that Eva Moore in a little linen lawn tennis gown which she so well knew how to wear, really made me celebrated. I shall always feel that I contributed something to the success of a great prima donna, Madame Al- bani, at Covent Garden, in that brilliant first per- formance of Verdi's "Othello" in which she ap- peared with the athletic tenor, Tamagno. Her toilettes were gorgeous, the embroideries alone costing over two hundred guineas. The tea gown of pure lace du Burano, worn when the Moor comes to her couch in jealousy to slay the fair Des- demona, was very beautiful. Tamagno apologised to me afterwards for crushing it. "It was really too lovely to smother her in it," he said. "I hesitated, for her lines were so exqui- site. I hated to be so treacherous, but it had to be done, though I treated your work very gently." Even a Moor of Venice can be chastened by such a beautiful dress. Two other great artists in the theatrical world in London, whom I remember so well, were Ellen Terry and Lady Bancroft. Many of us can re- member what a really versatile, clever, charming —181— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES actress Lady Bancroft (Marie Wilton) was. When she appeared in "Diplomacy," London raved about her. The Prince of Wales always at- tended the opening of the Bancrofts. She was not exactly pretty, but very magnetic. It was Lady Bancroft and her husband, Sir Squire Bancroft, who made the Haymarket Theatre famous. She was notoriously difficult to please, but some- how or other I always scored with her. She was fond of me, and only last year I received a letter from her country seat near Folkestone. I remem- ber once a session with her which lasted five long hours, during which we discussed a certain colour scheme. At the end of it we drove to the theatre, and saw how the furniture and the hangings of the scenes would harmonise with the proposed gown. Lady Bancroft being rather short in stature, it was often difficult to carry out satisfactorily her own plans for her toilettes. However, she didn't mind the trouble she unconsciously caused. When the gown was completed, she would say quite pleas- antly : "If you don't mind, dear, we will change it a little." Changing it a little meant a complete recon- struction of the gown, and yards of silk, velvet, lace —182— AUTHORS AND ACTORS and embroidery went the way of all that is mortal. Yet, one did please her after all, if one didn't op- pose her too much. The Bancrofts' home in Berkeley Square, Lon- don, was rather curious. Their whole staircase was lined with caricatures of all the celebrities of their long reign in London. Du Maurier, Punch's great artist, is responsible for most of them. Sir Squire Bancroft, a tall figure with snow-white hair, with his inevitable monocle in his eye, is still a strik- ing personality in London. One of their sons died in China, having married a daughter of the famous Kembles. I believe the marriage was not a happy one, for they were divorced. Lady Bancroft is a devout Catholic, most char- itable, and has done a great deal for the cause of the Allies. She still holds her own, is still satirical, witty and spirituelle. Her fame has not vanished, although she retired from the stage some years ago. She still often plays for charity. When the automobile was not so much in evi- dence, you could meet the Bancrofts, like Darby and Joan, driving in their victoria, drawn by two nice Irish cobs. England has never been able to replace Mrs. Bancroft. She had her own peculiar style, convincingly serious, screamingly funny, and —183— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES versatile. Even Queen Victoria, I believe, sent for them to give private performances at Balmoral, and King Edward was one of the earliest admirers of Her Ladyship, remaining a very true and staunch friend always. The Prince of Wales Theatre was where Lady Bancroft became famous, before leasing the Haymarket Theatre. Ellen Terry, the paragon of English tragedy, the sweet Juliet of Irving's Romeo, stirred Lon- don, and for that matter America, for years. We are contemporaries, and we have met on and off the stage for many years. Her sliding movement when she greets you, her alluring, bewitching smile, have not really altered. She has been, I believe, a happy woman, and all the homage and all the adoration she has received, never spoiled her. Her daughter and her son are both great artists, classic designers, having staged many pieces of the Greek and Roman cult. Ellen Terry comes of a wonder- ful family, for among them are many of the shin- ing lights of the English stage. She herself was perhaps the most graceful figure on any stage. Her garments were always part of her, her flow- ing robes (for she never wore a corset), her glid- ing movements, sylph-like in their grace, always gave me the impression that when she walked she —184— AUTHORS AND ACTORS never touched the earth. She moved so stealthily, so quickly, and yet with such perfect modulation. Creating gowns for Ellen Terry was always an easy matter for me. She would come to my studio, stretch out on the couch, and say to me : "Now, dear, what shall I wear?" "Well, it is difficult to say, will you please stand up until we try some effect?" I would say. "No, dearie, just hang some material around, so that I can look at it, and when I see something that strikes my imagination I will get up." Often she would take the scissors out of the fit- ter's hands. "Let me show you," she would say, and that would end it. She was angelically sweet, never out of temper, erratic in the extreme, but a charming woman. Whatever I created for her was always a joy to me, for I knew I was garbing an artist, a superb woman. Those piquant little stories of her early life may have some truth in them or may not. We are all well aware that the greater our success, the greater the number of our enemies. I presume that is her case. I know that the great grief of her life came —185— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES when Sir Henry Irving and she severed a life-long friendship. I shall always maintain that it was Ellen Terry who made Irving famous. It was she who called forth the divine fire in him, which was certainly dor- mant until she fanned the flickering flame into a bright and shining light. For doing this, it seems to me ingratitude was her fate, as it is with many others. The fickleness and vagaries of fortune be- set many of us, and Ellen Terry was no exception. I love her very much, she is such a human, kind creature, and I wish her well to the end of the chap- ter. One cannot leave this period of extraordinary genius in the English theatre without referring to Mr. and Mrs. Kendal, to Harry Montague, the ideal of young hearts, Ada Lewis, Hugh Con- way, and many others. Mrs. Kendal was always spoken of in whispers, because one always feared saying something that would shock her exquisite sensibilities. She was rather a tall, majestic-look- ing woman, when she was Madge Robertson. She and her husband played together for so many years that one never dreamed of separating them by thought or word. Mrs. Kendal's favourite stage trick was to turn her back to the audience, for in —186— AUTHORS AND ACTORS evening dress she had a very beautiful back. Mr. Kendal, I believe, must have been a sort of Egyp- tian sphinx inwardly, because he was never known to express an opinion, or to speak to another wo- man except his wife. He was very handsome, but I am sure he never would have dared to suggest appearing with any other actress, save his wife, for it would have been the worse for him, so active was the green-eyed monster in the heart of beauti- ful Madge Kendal. There was never a word of criticism concerning the purity and domestic per- fection of their lives. I believe that Madge Robertson really made an actor of Mr. Kendal ; at any rate, he learned every- thing he knew about acting from her. I have also always thought that Ellen Terry, that supple, co- bra-like woman, made Sir Henry Irving. She adored him and always quoted him as her guiding star. Perhaps he was, but I do not share her opin- ion. In later years he devoted a good deal of time to that little woman who wrote for Vanity Fair. It was a decided decadence in good taste, she was such a direct contradiction to the marvellous per- sonality of the great tragedienne. It took some little time before King Edward showed any interest in the Alexanders at the St. —187— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES James Theatre, but he was finally induced to pa- tronise it from time to time by Her Royal High- ness the Duchess of Fife. Of course, many of us to-day remember that exquisite woman Ada Cavendish, who made such a sensation in a version of Wilkie Collins' "The New Magdalen." The Prince of Wales in his younger days greatly admired her. She married Captain Marshall, the playwright. People were much more eager for the theatre in those days than they are now; it was before the horrible advent of those terrible moving pictures. I remember the crowds that used to go to the Prince of Wales Theatre in Oxford Street, to see those fine actors, Rignold, Warner, Wilson Barrett, in those spec- tacular melodramas once so dear to the British heart. Then there was William Terriss, that hand- some actor who was stabbed to death by a madman at the stage door of the Adelphi Theatre one night in London, where he had been making an enor- mous success in an English melodrama called "Harbour Lights." His pretty daughter, Ellaline Terriss, who married Seymour Hicks, danced her- self into favour with the king in a foolish little ditty called "A Little Bit of String." She is still a great favourite with the theatre public. —188— AUTHORS AND ACTORS I cannot fail to mention Fred Terry, Ellen Terry's brother, and his charming wife, Julia Neil- son. Her beauty was indeed ravishing. Then there was Cyril Maude, who, with his clever wife, pleased London with his smug smartness in com- edy. Who can forget Oscar Asche and Lily Brayton, his wife, in their magnificent production of "Kismet." One could write a volume about the English actors and actresses of my period in London, but I have mentioned only those who re- ceived royal favour. A number of English actresses who married in the peerage, and a number of peers' sons who went on the stage, have perhaps been responsible for the impression that King Edward regarded the the- atre as part of the fashion of the court. This is entirely erroneous, because although His Majesty was always courteous, and personally rather fond of the players, he never allowed an actress to be presented at court. I doubt whether he approved of the theatre as a profession, in spite of the fact that several of the chorus girls of the Gaiety The- atre married into the peerage. The Marchioness of Headford, for instance, was formerly on the pro- gram of the Gaiety Theatre as Rosie Booty. Lady Victor Paget, the late Countess Clancarty, the —189— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES Marchioness of Aylesbury, belonged to the chorus. Then there was Lilly Elsie of "Merry Widow" fame, who became Mrs. Ian Bullough, Miss Clif- ford, who became The Honourable Bruce, and lost her husband in the beginning of the war (he was the son of Lord Aberdeen), and Lady Carrington, now a widow, all belonged to the variety stage. There were enormous possibilities for the beautiful coryphees of the English stage, young girls of all sorts and conditions. Some of them were from the slums of the East End, and they gathered even thousands in the transit of art. The stage favour- ites of London always had the entree to many smart sets, but I believe King Edward, who was most fastidious, respecting etiquette, drew the line very sharply between court life and the stage. Not- withstanding his laxity in minor details respecting the weaker sex, he was very strict in other details. Among the social lions connected directly or in- directly with the theatre, were the authors, famous and infamous, of that day. I knew many of them well. Particularly do I remember Ouida, that woman of sublime imagination, who wrote "Strath- more," "Moths," "Under Two Flags." She was occupying a royal suite in the then very famous and much frequented Langham Hotel in —190— AUTHORS AND ACTORS the Portland Place, one of the most beautiful thoroughfares in London. Her mother was with her and would never allow her to be disturbed on any pretext while writing. Her favourite mode of dressing was in yellow silk, quite decollete. From her many admirers among the Crack Regiments she chose as her beau ideal a handsome Life Guards- man, a peer of the realm, after whom she moulded most of her heroes. Her story-book women were always bad, frivolous, even worse than that. I once hinted to her, somewhat audaciously at the manner in which she dealt with the weaker sex. "My dear, let me tell you, there are no good women excepting those who are made so by men," she said. How ghastly, I thought, to be inured to such a cynical opinion of one's sex. She wrote with won- derful descriptive power, and her vivid conceptions of human nature were very true to life, yet, poor soul, she died heart-broken and poor, though her star of life was once one of the most brilliant in the horizon of her day. Her last years were the winter of fiction. In appearance, Ouida looked like a gypsy. She was very dark, with deep-set eyes that had a pecul- iar far-away look. She affected gowns of gypsy —191— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES Romany style which suited her very well. She was very antagonistic to the modern woman, and it was part of her nature to never allow them to shine when she was present. I believe, however, I was very favourably looked upon by her. She adored her two collies, Caesar and Minks, who were always with her. She talked to them like human beings. "My canine friends are real," she used to say, "the others are chimera." In a measure I believe she was right. In her lap the little Pomeranian she claimed inspired her. Her soul understood the language of these dogs well. She was charitable and human in the ex- treme, though grotesque at times in her toilettes. Of the many literary celebrities I met, I shall never forget the little talks we used to have with the Poet Laureate, Lord Tennyson, whom we used to meet at a little cafe in Regent Street, in London, where the poet used to come to sip his cafe noir. The usual attractions of youth were still with me then, and being a poet perhaps, he was still sus- ceptible. "People are often so uncharitable," I said to him. He paused a minute before answering me, and with that ambiguous smile for which he was noted, he finally said: —192— AUTHORS AS I j ACTOB .ike an oyster knife that hacks and hews the will, but not the power to a J on was rather tall, he wore his hair un- .ally long, and the most predominant thing about him was his intellectual, broad forehead. H were rather la rg orows very prominent, he had a very sympathetic manner, and he wa tonally gallant. Frequently with my best friend. my late husband," e would stroll to- gether from the little cafe on our way home, listen- ing to this genius, for that he was unmistakably. I fail to see any resemblance to him in his son. Mrs. Craigie 'Oliver Hobbs) wrote several charming plays which delighted the entire royal family. Especially charmed were they with her play called "Some E and a Moral/'* I: | lite a sensation, especially as the author rery young, and, of cc nse, some surprise at the cynical tone of the play. Her romance began when she was only sixteen. A | ng in an ama- ur performance, she met a young American who had just come over, and immediately "became en- gaged + o him. He was rery good-looking, and he played the part of a Naval :':. er. She believed that she was in love, married him, and her marr life proved to be a failure. She divorced him. She —193— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES had a charming son, who was educated by his grand- parents, and served his country at the front. Pearl Morgan Richards, who became Mrs. Craigie, was a wonderfully bright and witty woman. She had a streak of perpetual sarcasm, and yet her wit made you love her at once. She had beautiful eyes, and a very lovely hand. She was a great friend of Lord and Lady Curzon, and went to the Durbar as their guest. That was the late Lady Curzon, who was Miss Leiter of Chicago. They were intimate and charming friends, and the cur- tain of time has fallen on both of them. —194^ CHAPTER IX THE MODERN SPIRIT OF KING EDWARD'S RULE At the close of Queen Victoria's reign, the rest- lessness which Her Majesty's conservative policy at court had so long restrained, began to take ac- tive measure. The popularity of the Prince of Wales, whose accession to the throne seemed to be interminably deferred, had instilled a more modern spirit among the aristocrats and the beautiful women, of which there were so many in England at this time. There were indications of this in such gala events during the latter part of Queen Vic- toria's reign, as the great ball at Warwick Castle, given by the beautiful Countess of Warwick. She was in high favour at that time with the Prince of Wales, whose patronage of beauty was well known. It was my privilege to make most of the gowns, the lingerie, even the robes de nuit of this famous court beauty. She was the most ravishing English beauty of her time, and is still a vision of loveliness to-day. —195— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES It was at this famous ball at Warwick Castle, that the Countess of Warwick wore an entirely new suggestion for a ball dress. I think I was the first to introduce the fashion, which has since been widely copied. It was the blending of fur with tulle. The gown worn by the Countess of Warwick was a rose tulle ball gown, with narrow sable borders. Shall I ever forget that ball ! The immense ball room in that historical old Cas- tle Warwick was filled with the most glorious ex- otic flowers. Palms, wonderful bushes of clematis, tea roses, violets, white lilacs, all intermingled with lilies-of-the-valley. The general effect was one of a modern saturnalia. The parterre floor shone like a looking-glass. It was smooth as polished metal. Huge subdued rose tinted lights gave a dull soft hue to everything. Armies of footmen in their gor- geous livery of the earl's household made one think almost of the great ball that preceded Water- loo. All the leading County families and their daughters were present, and His Royal Highness, the Prince of Wales, opened the ball with the Countess, who was an ideal woman for an ideal ball gown. The glorious manteau of velour miroire doublee in chinchilla, which she wore, was the fin- —196— KING EDWARD'S RULE ishing touch that startled everybody. The manteau was finished with a sable collar. She ruled supreme upon the horizon of fashion for a very long time, and I had the pleasure of mak- ing for her superb liseuse and tea gowns of a daring description. Her robes de nuit, in ninon rose, black, and vert dfeau profusely trimmed with real Valen- ciennes made her look like a Louise de Lavalliere. She was a woman of such exquisite form. The Countess of W. was one of my earliest, and by far the most encouraging inspiration. It was for her that I devised many daring effects. I recall adapting Queen Victoria's coronation gown into a picture tea gown for the Countess of W., of lace ninon with pearl trimmings. Her Majesty Queen Victoria would have been surprised to see how much her coronation gown looked like a tea gown. Then there was an Empire tea gown of blond lace. It is a lace which is so transparent that if used on a light tissue the effect is that of a blond chevelure. It is mostly made in the Ardennes, and few people know how to employ this beautiful lace to advantage. It is as delicate as cobweb, with opalescent shades, when draped over any material of suitable texture. I have always been very successful in using it. There was no end to the original effects that —197— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES were possible for a woman of the physical splen- dour of the Countess of W. I was very proud of an opera cloak which I made for her, which at- tracted wide attention at the time, and which I be- lieve no other woman could have worn. It was a regal wrap of fine white cloth, smothered with coarse Guipure, disclosing Persian embroidery and lined with rose and gold. It was in such women as the Countess of W. that the Prince of Wales confirmed his prediction of a new and more brilliant fashion when he should be- come king. I shall always feel that King Edward VII was the arbiter of the brilliant styles which he admired. I feel that he dictated to the English women of fashion, for his taste was that of a grand Seigneur. He was very original, and created about him an atmosphere which inspired a startling qual- ity. He always adapted himself to his surround- ings. It didn't matter whether His Majesty was at Ascot, or Derby, at a horse show, at the opening of Parliament or at a salon. King Edward always gave a personal tone to those about him. What he said and what he did were quoted at professional clubs. His bon mots were adopted everywhere, for he was extremely witty, cynical at times, but full of wonderful good nature- King Edward was —198^ KING EDWARD'S RULE really a very great diplomat ; his diplomacy was of a quality that would have been an immense value in temporising the conditions which brought about the war. With the accession of His Majesty, King Ed- ward VII, and Queen Alexandra to the throne, dress was no longer so conventional, it became more free and easy. The King and Queen seemed to be, as you would say over here, more up to date. To be sure, the Court Drawing Rooms were still held in the day time, but the balls, the concerts at Buck- ingham Palace, were less formal and tiresome. The usual list of people one met at these Court func- tions was much changed. There were not so many bores at the palace as there were during the regime of Queen Victoria. Of course, there were those who deplored the fact that society was becoming flippant. A great many of us regarded this new freedom in dress, in talk, as a great relief. The first years of the reign of King Edward VII were very brilliant socially. The whole atmosphere of social conditions in London became charged with the joviality and wit of the King himself. He was a great admirer of beautiful women, and he en- couraged their presence at the British court with every possible sign of favour. In presence and per- —199— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES sonality he was a real charmer, the ladies all adored him. His intimates called him "Teddy." He was the best groomed cavalier of his day, the Beau Brummel of his century. Both the King and the beautiful Queen Alexandra came into power with the love and esteem of their millions of subjects. They were as much adored by the man in the streets as by the aristocracy, the dowagers, and the younger generation of their reign. I always believed that His Majesty was even more popular in Paris than in London. It is generally conceded that the en- tente cordiale was established by King Edward VII so firmly, that no other power could disturb the al- liance. King Edward still lives, we do not realise that he is dead, so remarkable is the influence of his spirit over the affairs of England. When peo- ple speak of a delightful man, of a good King, they remember Edward VII. As Princess of Wales, and later as Queen Alex- andra, this beautiful woman was always famous for her exquisite taste in gowns. It was really an inborn quality with her. Her Majesty has always been considered the best dressed woman in England. I say this, having some personal knowledge of how the court beauties of her day envied her; envy is such a frequent intruder upon the dressmaker's —200— KING EDWARD'S RULE career. Thousands strive to copy Her Majesty's gowns, her hats, her coiffure, but they were all just spurious imitations. Even to-day, having reached the years when one is less likely to be observed in the matter of dress, Her Majesty remains the most elegant of women, the most royal of all the Queens of the last century. My acquaintance with Queen Alexandra was of many years. I assisted in the direction of her gowns before she was Queen of England, and long after that. The privileges that came to me as modiste to royalty were not merely a formal obedience to royal commands. A queen being measured for a gown, is still a woman. The atmosphere of the queen's bed- chamber, however, is something that is indescrib- ably different. It may be that one associated some mysterious superiority to the personality of a queen, because she is queen. At any rate I shall always recall my visits to the bedroom of Queen Alexandra with the same sentiment that any other woman would, who enjoyed the same privilege. The Queen's bed-chamber was a huge, square bedroom, with a very high ceiling. It was a unique apartment, for there was nothing modern about it. Its huge four-poster bedstead was awe-inspiring, —201— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES and the various old oak chests of a former period, the couches, the chairs, were all of the early English period. A large crucifix hung over Her Majesty's bed, and the real lace coverings upon which were woven the royal escutcheon, were very beautiful and ele- gant. Adjoining the bedroom was the queen's bou- doir, a lovely nest, in which Her Majesty put aside her crown, and presumably put on her slippers. Beside her dressing table, upon which were the usual toilet accessories, but of pure gold, stood a mahogany case, with an open glass inlaid front. In- side this case, all symmetrically arranged, were the queen's personal jewels. Among them were the most lovely parures of diamonds, pearls, rubies, sapphires, onyx, in fact the entire galaxy of beau- tiful stones and jewels so placed in the cabinet as to be ready for wear, to match any gown. The bedroom screen was a very unique bit of fur- niture. It contained a multitude of photographs, inserted in panels, of the young generation of all the reigning families of Europe, and of all royalty. These photographs were framed in white wooden arabesque, which made them stand out beautifully. If the political masters of Europe could have had a glimpse at this wonderful album of photos in —202— KING EDWARD'S RULE Queen Alexandra's boudoir, and realise, as they would have done, how tender and how close the in- ternational relations of Europe were, by actual bond of social relationship, it is possible some of them would want to hide behind that screen in view of what is happening now, to hide themselves from the political shame of the present war. That Her Majesty might survey at her ease the toilettes she was to wear, a huge gown-rack stood beside the dressing-table, upon which various gowns could be displayed, so that Her Majesty could com- fortably choose the one she preferred to wear. There was an atmosphere about the Queen's bou- doir of quiet dignity, of perfect order, of peace of mind. The windows of her boudoir looked out upon the velvet lawn, the orderly footpaths of the palace grounds, and huge oak trees cast their shadows nestling at the windows of this exquisitely appointed royal chamber. Of course, there were mementoes of all sorts of things, little knick-knacks that were probably personal souvenirs. Most prominently displayed in the room, however, were large photo- graphs of all the royal children of the queen, who were then grown up. I recall one especially beau- tiful photograph, taken of Her Majesty as a bride, upon her entree into London; a speaking likeness —203— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES of Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort ; a charm- ing picture of the Duke of Clarence. And then there was a host of relatives, beautifully framed and too numerous to mention. The most impressive recollection of the Queen's bedroom to me was that huge crucifix which hung immediately over Her Majesty's pillow. It indi- cated the glorious or melancholy fact that she was queen "By the Grace of God." Many wonder- fully happy, and many tearful nights, Her Majesty must have passed in the shadow of this crucifix. Queen Alexandra, like most of her royal ances- try, was a strict church-goer. Her influence upon her own children in this respect was very great. I remember when Canon Duckworth awaited her wishes as to the music for the funeral of her son, the Duke of Clarence, she said to him: "His favourite hymn was 'Safe in the Arms of Jesus.' " Her Majesty was intensely feminine, as the fol- lowing anecdote will confirm. It was when she was Princess of Wales and was preparing to go to Ber- lin to assist at the funeral ceremony of Kaiser Friedrich. I was summoned to Marlborough House to be there in case any advice was needed in some crisis concerning the gowns of Her Royal —204— KING EDWARD'S RULE Highness. The scene is as vivid to me to-day as then. The train was already waiting for the royal trav- ellers at Victoria Station. Her Royal Highness was busy, applying those last touches that every woman seems to think of only at the last minute, when the Prince of Wales opened the door of the room. I can see him, as he stepped back in amaze- ment, when he saw that the princess was wearing a cloak which had no crepe trimming. It appeared, though I shall never believe it, that Her Royal Highness didn't know that it was necessary for her to wear crepe. "But, my dear," remonstrated His Royal High- ness, very gently, "it is essential." Speedily my acolytes were sent hurrying to my house, and when they returned with the crepe we sewed it on the cloak, while Her Highness patiently stood up. I shall never forget the charming pres- ence of the late Duke of Clarence (Cuffs and Col- lars, as he was called ) . He was leaning on the man- telpiece, doing his best to be formally solemn, to suppress his laughter. I think we all of us in the room only managed to keep serious with the great- est difficulty. And yet, the beautiful princess —205— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES seemed serenely unconscious that she was keeping anybody waiting. It was at Marlborough House, during the Jubi- lee of Queen Victoria, that I first met the late Czar of all the Russias. I was going upstairs to Her Royal Highness' apartment, when at a very narrow point in the corridor I met a young gentle- man. There was scarcely room for us to pass, and he had to squeeze himself up against the wall. Upon seeing me, he took his cigarette from his lips, lifted his hat, and passed on. When I got upstairs I told them how I had met Prince George, as the present King of England was then called. "Oh dear no, dear Madame," I was told. "It was the Czarevitch, the future Emperor of Russia." As every one knows, there is a striking resem- blance between King George of England and the Czar of Russia, who are cousins. He impressed me as a very charming youth, very modest in demean- our, and very cordial. My first impression of him was that of a young, unostentatious college boy, who was up in London for the holidays; and yet, there was something of a grand air about him, a mysterious suggestion of his future destiny. I wonder if he still remembers, this Czar of all the Russias, those sweet pastoral days in England, so —206— KING EDWARD'S RULE void of care and sorrow. At any rate, the dress- maker has not forgotten his gracious bow. He can- not have forgotten those delightful days in Lon- don, although momentous times have supervened, distress and horror have pursued him. Does the youth subconsciously remember his own delightful personality of those early days in London, or has he really become a hard and unrelenting monarch? I wonder, for the impression I derived of him was truly a very adorable one. I am doing my best to gather up the threads of all these brilliant memories of former years method- ically, trying not to slip any incidents, no matter how small and unimportant they appeared at the time. -207— CHAPTER X HIS MAJESTY'S LAST AFFAIR OF THE HEART During those hours of morbid retrospection, in which kings and commoners equally indulge, His Majesty King Edward VII found solace in a new adherent to fill the void which the beautiful Count- ess of W. had left. This favourite of the court be- gan her comet-like career with brilliant notoriety. She was not beautiful, she was tall, well formed, and, history says, was particularly proud of her limbs. She was somewhat younger than the Count- ess of W. People described her as a woman of fine stature, and attractive person. She had a great deal of spirit, she was daring, and whatever she un- dertook she carried out with considerable caution and perseverance. In her relation with the king she was stubborn, sometimes presumptuous, faults that are almost in- separable from a sudden rise to fortune, from com- parative poverty. In her earlier career Mrs. G. K. was very poor —208— HIS MAJESTY'S LAST HEART AFFAIR indeed. I knew her when her first baby was born, and she lived modestly in Wilton Crescent. No one would have dreamed then that she could ever reach her exalted station, if you like to call it such. I re- call that she sent over to me one morning, with an order for some tea gowns. Naturally I was re- luctant, knowing that she could hardly afford my prices. However, a certain lady M., who was then Miss Teresa V., told me that she would be respon- sible, and I sent a very pretty lace gown with pale blue ribbon. In later years, this court favourite could pay almost three figures for her gowns, when in former times one figure was too much. Being Scotch, she was naturally of a saving disposition, and therefore amassed a goodly fortune which she takes great care of. I heard that she was provided with twelve thousand pounds a year, but, of course, this is only rumour. The royal favour mounted to her head like wine, tilted her balance for a downward trend. His Maj- esty showered all kinds of presents upon the new star. She was nearly always with him. There was a certain insolence in the way in which she endeav- oured to usurp His Majesty. She dressed very well, her favourite colour being blue. She claimed to be an authority on certain theories of dress. —209— LOVE STORIES OF COURT BEAUTIES Those who looked on at this thriving romance, realised that the impatient spirit of the new favour- ite was little fitted to brook the devious endearments of the sovereign. There were lovesick quarrels and reconciliations in which the king indulged at times. These mimic comedies of forgiveness gave ample food for the cynics, and laughter for the superficial. When in Biarritz, the favourite often went to His Majesty's private sitting room. If for some reason or other His Majesty's confidential valet would not always allow her to enter, she made a scene, shed tears of exasperation. There were times of mimic remorse, when she often declared that she would rather give every- thing up than continue to be talked about, than lead her life in the society of the king, which made her intoxicated with the audacity of power. She was never entirely contented because there were always limitations to her ambitions, and she foresaw them. She was always demanding new proofs of his devotion to her. She feared always the loss of a certain prestige which her relations appeared to give her. She had a good brain, and would have interfered in affairs of state. In fact, she was constantly repeating to the king certain im- portant facts which she pretended to have heard. —210— M^aL ctsrstQ C tJ , /'c(-/cyt< //, '//>// r/// //////'/ //////<>f tt/f '/ 7 y „/yt< '(> '1/ / ■ //,///// ' I 7 f/// J/ 1 ./.J ■'/ '/' '/////I // - /// / fij / ' 7 / //,., z3^ Jay, ,/ Jrt//e. /