Division of 
 
 u r a I S c i 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFO 
 
 SIMPLIFIED 
 SEWING 
 
 ETHELWYN DODSON 
 FRANCES REIS QUINN 
 
 / 
 
 CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL 
 Experiment Station 
 Extension Service 
 
 MANUAL 1 1 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
 in 2012 with funding from 
 
 University of California, Davis Libraries 
 
 http://archive.org/details/simplifiedsewing11dods 
 
SIMPLIFIED 
 SEWING 
 
 ETHELWYN DODSON 
 FRANCES REIS QUINN 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA • COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE 
 
 Agricultural Experiment Station and Extension Service 
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 DAVIS 
 
THIS MANUAL is one of a series published by the University of California College of 
 Agriculture and sold for a charge which is based upon returning only a portion of the pro- 
 duction cost. By this means it is possible to make available publications which, due to 
 relatively high cost of production, or limited audience, would otherwise be beyond the scope 
 of the College publishing program. 
 
'» 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 Page 
 
 An organized method for making a garment 1 
 
 Use the unit method 1 
 
 Choose cloth that is easy to handle 1 
 
 Choose pattern size range 2 
 
 Lay the pattern on the fabric 3 
 
 Cut and mark the garment 8 
 
 Making a garment by the unit method 9 
 
 Sewing techniques 13 
 
 Necklines 13 
 
 Sleeves 16 
 
 Hems 17 
 
 Plackets 18 
 
 Piped buttonholes 18 
 
 Darts 19 
 
 Machine gathering 20 
 
 Seams 20 
 
 Woven plaids 21 
 
 Stripes 23 
 
 Patterned fabrics 23 
 
 Tips on handling fabrics 23 
 
 Fabrics made from natural fibers 23 
 
 Fabrics of man-made fibers 24 
 
SIM 
 
 Think of each part of your 
 pattern as a unit. Illustrated 
 here are the units of a simple 
 dress. 
 
 Making an attractive garment of good workmanship is pos- 
 sible for either a beginner or an experienced sewer. 
 
 The directions given in this manual can be adapted to the making 
 of any garment, whether for a man, woman, or child. 
 
 The organized type of sewing described in this manual is the unit 
 method. Each part of a garment is completed before the parts are 
 put together. The easy-to-follow steps will save you time and effort. 
 
 The sewing techniques will help you achieve good workmanship. 
 
 Tips on using fabrics other than cotton will be of help when you 
 are ready to extend your sewing experience. 
 
 THE AUTHORS: 
 
 Ethelwyn Dodson and Frances Reis Quinn are Clothing Specialists, Agricultural Exten- 
 sion, Berkeley. 
 
 November, 1953 
 
PLIFIED SEWING 
 
 ETHELWYN DODSON 
 
 FRANCES REIS QUINN 
 
 AN ORGANIZED METHOD FOR MAKING A GARMENT 
 
 Use the unit method 
 
 The unit method of sewing is a way 
 to make a garment in easy-to-follow steps. 
 Each part of the garment is a unit. For 
 example, the units of a dress are the 
 blouse back and front, the collar, the 
 sleeves, and the skirt back and front. It 
 is easier to sew on one flat part than on 
 several parts that have been joined. Com- 
 plete whatever sewing can be done on 
 each unit before it is joined to other units. 
 
 Choose cloth that is easy 
 to handle 
 
 Choose easy-to-handle fabrics when 
 practicing quick methods in sewing. Cot- 
 ton cloth is easy to use. 
 
 Vat-dyed cottons are the most perma- 
 nent — least likely to run or fade. Cottons 
 labeled for controlled shrinkage are ready 
 to use. If the cotton is not shrunk, shrink 
 it before cutting. 
 
 To shrink cotton material: 
 
 1 . Without unfolding it, soak the 
 cloth in warm water until it is com- 
 pletely wet. 
 
 2. Drain off water. Do not wring 
 cloth. 
 
 3. Straighten and pull cloth into 
 shape while it is wet. 
 
 4. Let cloth drip dry until damp 
 enough to iron. Press straight with 
 the grain. 
 
 Suitable for your first garment are 
 printed or solid-color cottons, such as 
 percale, chambray, pique, poplin, broad- 
 cloth, denim, or suiting. Firmly woven 
 rayon may also be chosen. Spun rayons 
 and washable, linen-like weaves that tear 
 with a short fringe and do not ravel badly 
 are best. 
 
 O 
 
 o o o o 
 
 O O O O O G 
 
 D o o o o o 
 o o o o o o 
 
 O O O O O O i 
 
 o o o o o o 
 
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 O O O O O O < 
 
 You save material by choosing a print with no 
 up and down (right), rather than one that must 
 go in one direction only (left). 
 
 [i] 
 
Two simple but attractive blouses have only 
 two pattern pieces each, require little sewing. 
 
 Avoid fabrics that slow 
 up sewing time 
 
 Plaids, stripes, and large prints take 
 time to center and match. 
 
 Avoid sheer fabrics because they re- 
 quire extra seam finishing. 
 
 Napped fabrics like corduroy and 
 velveteen must be cut so that the nap lies 
 in one direction. Prints with figures lying 
 in one direction must be cut in the same 
 way. Pattern sheet directions for laying 
 out patterns on napped fabrics must be 
 followed carefully. 
 
 Choose a simple pattern 
 
 A simple pattern is easiest to use be- 
 cause it has few pieces. 
 
 Choose pattern size range 
 
 Choosing a pattern size that fits with- 
 out requiring many changes is another 
 way to make a first garment a success. 
 
 Patterns are available in proportions 
 suitable to various figure types. There is 
 a decided difference in proportion among 
 patterns that are marked the same size, 
 such as a size 12 designated girls', teen, 
 junior miss, or women's. The differences 
 are in length of waist and skirt as well 
 as in allowance for chest development. 
 
 Girls' patterns are for girls of ele- 
 mentary and junior high school age. They 
 
 Gathered skirt (left) and straight skirt (right) 
 are easy to make. 
 
 are in even numbers, sizes 6 through 14. 
 
 Junior patterns are designed for the 
 teen-age figure, but some adults will also 
 find that these patterns fit them. The pat- 
 terns usually range in odd numbers from 
 size 9 to 19, but some teen-age patterns 
 are made in even sizes from 10 to 18, 
 while others run, in sequence, 11, 12, 13, 
 14, 15, 16, and 18. 
 
 Misses' patterns are designed for 
 youthful figures, and range from size 10 
 or 12 to 20. 
 
 Misses' and women's patterns are 
 for the mature figure, and range in size 
 from 32 to 50, in even numbers. 
 
 Women's half sizes, proportioned 
 for short figures, are available in some 
 makes of patterns. 
 
 With all these sizes available, it is pos- 
 sible to buy a pattern that needs little or 
 no change. 
 
 Measure for pattern size 
 
 The pattern that fits the figure through 
 the shoulders and chest is better because 
 waistline and hip changes are simpler to 
 make. 
 
 For dress size, measure: 
 
 Bust — Used by pattern companies to 
 determine size. 
 
 Chest — Accurate measurement based 
 on bone structure. 
 
 [2 
 
Chest plus 2 inches — allows for normal 
 bust development. 
 
 If your bust measures 3 or 4 inches 
 larger than chest, substitute measurement 
 of chest or chest plus 2 inches for bust 
 measurement to determine pattern size. 
 For skirt size, measure: 
 
 Waist and hip. 
 
 Select pattern size nearest hip measure. 
 
 Prepare pattern for cutting 
 garment 
 
 Upon completing alterations, cut outer 
 margins from printed patterns for accu- 
 racy in laying pattern on fabric and in 
 cutting. (See pages 4, 5, 6, and 7.) 
 
 Lay the pattern on the fabric 
 
 Here are the steps to follow : 
 
 1 • Straighten both ends of the cloth 
 by tearing or cutting by a drawn 
 thread. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 Each of these patterns is labeled "size 12," but 
 note how they vary according to figure type. 
 
 Take firm measurements to determine 
 pattern size. 
 
 2. Fold cloth so that the wrong side 
 of the material is on the outside, 
 ready for marking and stitching. 
 
 3. Place cloth on the table with the 
 ends and sides forming right angles. 
 
 4. Place the pattern on the cloth ac- 
 cording to the pattern direction 
 sheet. 
 
 5. Use a tapeline or ruler to get the 
 pattern pieces on the grain line of 
 the cloth. 
 
 Grain line is the straight threads of 
 the material, both lengthwise and cross- 
 wise, that lie at right angles to each other. 
 The straight-of-fabric marking on the 
 pattern usually follows the lengthwise 
 grain line. 
 
 When the garment is cut on the straight 
 of the fabric the lengthwise and crosswise 
 grain lines fall in straight lines up and 
 down and around the figure. The garment 
 holds its shape and hangs well. 
 
 The drawings on the four pages that follow show you how to measure your pattern and 
 how to adjust it to your own figure, thus insuring a finished garment that fits. 
 
 ► 
 
 [3] 
 
CHECK PATTERN WITH SIMILAR 
 
 NOTE: IN CHECKING YOUR PATTERN 
 WITH A SIMILAR GARMENT THAT FITS, 
 LAY THE GARMENT FLAT ON A TABLE 
 TO MEASURE. DO NOT MEASURE GAR- 
 MENT ON A PERSON. THE FIGURES ON 
 THESE PAGES ARE MERELY GUIDES TO 
 SHOW WHAT PLACES TO MEASURE. 
 
 TOTAL WIDTH— FRONT AND BACK 
 UNDERARM TO UNDERARM 
 
 TOTAL WIDTH— FRONT AND BACK 
 AT WAISTLINE 
 
 TOTAL WIDTH— FRONT AND BACK 
 AT HIPLINE— 7" DOWN 
 
 [4] 
 
TO MAKE PATTERN LARGER 
 
 TO MAKE PATTERN SMALLER 
 
 GARMENT THAT FITS 
 
 TO LENGTHEN 
 SLASH AND SPREAD 
 
 TO SHORTEN 
 FOLD DART SLASH, OVERLAP 
 
 THIS 
 
 OR THIS 
 
 [5] 
 
FRONT WAIST LENGTH— FROM JOINING 
 
 OF SHOULDER AND NECKLINES TO WAISTLINE 
 
 BACK WAIST LENGTH AT CENTER 
 
 SKIRT LENGTHS: 
 AT CENTER FRONT 
 AT CENTER BACK- 
 AT SIDE SEAMS — 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY MEASUREMENTS 
 
 WIDTH ACROSS BACK 
 5" FROM NECKLINE 
 
 POINT OF UNDERARM DART LOCATION— 
 TAPELINE AROUND NECK TO BREASTS 
 
 WIDTH OF SLEEVE AT UNDERARM 
 
 IF SHOULDERS ARE 
 SLOPING OR SHOULDER 
 PADS ARE OMITTED, 
 YOU MAY NEED TO 
 
 [6] 
 
TO MAKE PATTERN LARGER 
 
 TO MAKE PATTERN SMALLER 
 
 4\ X > 
 
 j * 
 
 — \>\ 
 
 THIS OR THIS 
 
 THAT MAY NEED TO BE CHECKED 
 
 THIS OR THIS 
 
 ADD "HINGE" 
 
 IF SHOULDERS ARE SQUARE 
 YOU MAY NEED TO 
 
 IF SHOULDERS 
 ARE ROUNDED 
 
 ri 
 
 PUT IN DART 
 
 SLASH SPREAD 
 
 [7] 
 
CUT END OF MATERIAL 
 
 To straighten material, draw a thread and cut 
 on thread line. 
 
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 Lay the fabric flat on a table so that ends and 
 sides form right angles. 
 
 .SELVAGES 
 
 Measure to get straight-of-fabric marking of 
 pattern on grain line of the material. 
 
 Cut and mark the garment 
 
 As each piece of the garment is cut, 
 mark notches, darts, and sewing lines for 
 quick-method construction. 
 
 1 . With sharp shears, cut closely 
 around pattern pieces. 
 
 2. If there is a center seam in the 
 blouse or skirt, pin the center seam 
 before removing from cutting table. 
 
 3. Mark all notches with %-inch 
 snips. Do not cut out notches. 
 
 4. Mark the seam edges of darts with 
 ^4-inch snips. 
 
 5. Mark the center front, center 
 back, and top of sleeve with i/i-inch 
 snips. 
 
 6. Mark the sewing lines of darts and 
 locations of pockets and buttonholes. 
 
 To mark sewing lines with 
 dressmaker's tracing paper 
 
 Dressmaker's tracing paper is made of 
 pigment and wax, and should not be con- 
 fused with inked carbon paper. This 
 special tracing paper can be used to mark 
 both sides of a garment at the same time. 
 
 Always test the tracing paper before 
 using. Mark a line lightly by laying the 
 paper over the wrong side of the fabric. 
 If the mark shows through to the right 
 side of the fabric test to see if the mark 
 can be removed. Wash it out if the fabric 
 is washable. Use a dry cleaning fluid if 
 the fabric is one that should be dry 
 cleaned. If the line is difficult to remove, 
 choose another method of marking. 
 
 Use either a tracing wheel or the dull 
 edge of a table knife to mark lines. Fol- 
 low the edge of a ruler to make sure that 
 lines are straight. 
 
 Here is the way to use dressmaker's 
 tracing paper: 
 
 1 . Put one sheet, waxed side up, be- 
 tween the lower side of the fabric 
 and a piece of cardboard on cutting 
 table. 
 
 [8] 
 
2. Remove enough pins so that the 
 paper can be put between the pattern 
 and the cloth. 
 
 3. Put another sheet between the pat- 
 tern and the cloth, waxed side down. 
 Repin the pattern. 
 
 4. Place a ruler along the line to be 
 marked and run the tracing wheel 
 or knife along the ruler edge. 
 
 5. Mark end point of darts. 
 
 To mark sewing lines with 
 double pins and chalk 
 
 1 . Put pins straight through each 
 perforation or along the marking 
 line of a printed pattern. 
 
 2. On the under side, put other pins 
 at the places where those from the 
 top show through. 
 
 3. When the two sections of the piece 
 are pulled apart, the heads of the 
 pins rest against the fabric. 
 
 4. Remove the pattern. 
 
 5. Place a ruler along the pin heads, 
 and connect them with a straight 
 chalk line. 
 
 Making a garment by 
 the unit method 
 
 The steps for making a dress are out- 
 lined below. If a separate blouse or skirt 
 is to be made, use the parts of the outline 
 that apply. 
 
 Stay-stitching is a row of stitching 
 to keep the grain line in place in parts 
 cut across the grain, such as neck, and 
 across the shoulder. Stay-stitch with 
 matching thread on a line slightly less 
 than the seam allowance given on the pat- 
 tern. Use a seam gauge to be exact. 
 
 There is a correct direction to follow 
 so that grain line is kept in place while 
 stitching. The general rule is : Stitch from 
 
 Use a single !4-inch snip to mark al 
 Do not cut out notch. 
 
 notches. 
 
 The seam edges of darts should be marked with 
 14-inch snips. 
 
 
 Mark top of sleeve with Vi-inch snips. 
 
 [9] 
 
Mark end points of darts. 
 
 Use flat edge of chalk for marking. 
 
 the highest to the lowest point on sections 
 cut across the grain. 
 
 Baste-stitching is basting by ma- 
 chine — 6 to 8 stitches to the inch. Use 
 contrasting thread on the bobbin. Stitch 
 on the wrong side. 
 
 Following is the outline for making a 
 dress by the unit method: 
 
 1 . Units of blouse 
 
 Front or fronts 
 Stitch center seam first, if used. 
 
 a. Stitch waistline or shoulder darts 
 
 and press toward center. Stitch un- 
 derarm darts and press down. 
 
 b. Stay-stitch the neck, shoulders, 
 and zipper area, and lower edge. 
 
 c. Baste-stitch 2 inches to mark cen- 
 ter front, if center seam is not used. 
 
 d. Baste-stitch to mark buttonholes 
 and pockets, if used. 
 
 e. Make piped buttonholes. If ma- 
 chine buttonholes are to be used, 
 they are finished later. 
 
 f . Finish facing edge. 
 
 ARROWS INDICATE DIRECTION f 
 OF STAY-STITCHING 
 
 FACING 
 FINISH- 
 STITCH, TURN 
 RESTITCH 
 
 CENTER FRONT DARTS FINISHED 
 
 BASTE-STITCHED 2" 
 
 A right front unit ready for making piped 
 buttonholes. 
 
 A completed left front unit that is now ready 
 for assembly. 
 
 [10 
 
g. Attach pockets. 
 
 Back of blouse 
 Stitch center seam first, if used. 
 
 a. Stitch darts and press toward 
 center. 
 
 b. Stay-stitch neck, shoulders, waist, 
 and zipper area. 
 
 C. Baste-stitch 2 inches to mark cen- 
 ter back if center seam is not used. 
 
 Collar 
 
 a. Baste-stitch to mark center. 
 
 b. Pin the two pieces of the collar, 
 easing the top onto the undercollar. 
 
 c. Stitch on regular seam line. 
 
 d. Press seam open. 
 
 e. Trim the seam to remove the bulk. 
 Clip the corners of pointed collars, 
 and cut small wedges from circular 
 collars. Turn and press. 
 
 Cuffs 
 
 Follow the same general outline as that 
 given above for collar. 
 
 Sleeves 
 
 a. Baste-stitch 2 inches down from 
 snip marking top of sleeve. 
 
 b. Sew darts or gathers at elbow. 
 
 c. Gather top of sleeves with machine 
 gathering between notches. 
 
 d. Sew underarm seam. 
 
 e. Finish hem or apply cuff. 
 
 2. Put together the units of blouse 
 
 a. Join shoulder seams from neck to 
 shoulder. 
 
 b. Attach collar to blouse, or finish 
 neckline. 
 
 c. Sew side seams from armhole to 
 waist. 
 
 d. Set in sleeves, sewing from sleeve 
 
 A completed back unit shown from the 
 underside. 
 
 side and overlapping stitching at un- 
 derarm seam. 
 
 Note: Sleeves may be set into arm- 
 holes before sewing side seams when 
 making shirts, pajamas, and children's 
 dresses, and house dresses. 
 
 To complete a blouse, make machine- 
 made buttonholes or finish piped ones. 
 Finish bottom with a ^-inch hem, or 
 pink the edge and stitch two rows close 
 to the pinking. 
 
 ■^r^c^p^fzr^^;. 
 
 V EASE TOP COLLAR ONTO UNDERCOLLAR ^ 
 
 TRIM CORNERS 
 AND SEAM 
 
 SMALL WEDGES ON 
 CURVE REMOVE 
 SEAM BULK 
 
 Follow these steps in making a pointed or 
 rounded collar. 
 
 [ii] 
 
3. Units of skirt 
 
 Front and back 
 
 a. Sew center seam or baste-stitch 2 
 inches down from center snip mark- 
 ing. 
 
 b. Make gathers or darts at waist. 
 
 c. Stay-stitch waistline and side 
 seams from hipline to waist. 
 
 4. Put together the units of skirt 
 
 a. Stitch side seams of skirt from 
 hem to waist. 
 
 b. Stitch back % inch when ending 
 seam on left side at placket opening. 
 
 To complete a skirt, finish the placket, 
 attach the band, mark and finish hem. 
 
 5. Complete the dress 
 
 a. Join blouse to skirt. 
 
 Steps of sleeve unit. Two rows of continuous 
 stitching make better gathering than one. 
 
 l. SHOULDER 
 SEAMS 
 
 3. SIDE SEAMS 
 
 Collar, pocket, buttonholes, side seams are finished before sleeves are set in. The blouse is ready 
 to attach to skirt at waistline. A completed skirt unit (below) showing staystitching at waistline and 
 side seams between hipline and waist. 
 
 b. Finish placket. 
 
 c. Mark and finish hem. 
 
 d. Make machine-made buttonholes 
 or finish piped ones. 
 
 e. Sew on buttons. 
 
 f. Give final pressing. 
 
 g. Make or buy a belt. 
 
 
 
 
 
 It 
 
 * 
 
 
 4 
 
 1 1 
 
 SKIRT 
 
 UNIT 
 
 \ y 
 
 12 
 
SEWING TECHNIQUES 
 
 The quality of the finishes on garments 
 is important. Very noticeable finishes 
 are: necklines, sleeves, hems, plackets, 
 buttonholes, darts, gathers, and seams. 
 
 Special techniques are given for plaids, 
 stripes, and certain patterned fabrics. 
 
 Necklines 
 
 Before finishing the neckline, check to 
 see if it is comfortable and becoming. A 
 
 Tips for speedy sewing 
 
 The unit method is planned to make 
 sewing go fast. Here are some tips to 
 speed it up even more. 
 l.Wear a pincushion when cutting, 
 sewing, or pressing. 
 
 2. Wear a tape measure around neck 
 or looped through belt. 
 
 3. Keep scissors handy when cutting, 
 sewing, or pressing. 
 
 4. Pin the pattern to fabric on the 
 straight-of-grain marking, and use 
 weights— such as silverware— to hold 
 the pattern edges in place. 
 
 5. Mark all pattern pieces at the time 
 you cut. 
 
 6. Know the order of sewing before 
 you start. Plan ahead. Understand 
 your pattern. 
 
 7. Pile cut units in sewing order. 
 
 • 8. Do not remove pattern pieces from 
 a unit until you are ready to sew it. 
 9. Have your sewing tools and place for 
 working conveniently arranged. 
 
 10. Use a seam gauge or cellophane 
 tape pasted on bed of machine to 
 
 . help you stitch accurate seams. 
 
 11. Use fewer pins and less basting by 
 using hands more for guiding fabric 
 while stitching. 
 
 12. Pin-baste straight seams by placing 
 pins back from the stitching line so 
 that the machine needle does not 
 sew over them. 
 
 13. Clip seam-end threads as you sew. 
 
 14. Press units before putting them to- 
 gether. 
 
 new stayline should be stitched if a cor- 
 rection is made. 
 
 A French fold or double bias binding 
 can be used as a neck finish or to attach 
 a ruffle to finish a neckline. The steps are : 
 
 1 . Cut a strip of true bias six times 
 the width of the finished fold (about 
 1% inches). 
 
 2. Fold the bias strip at the center. 
 Press and baste near the fold. 
 
 3. Trim the neckline a scant % inch 
 above the stayline. 
 
 4. Baste the binding to the right side 
 of the neckline, with cut edges to- 
 gether. Stitch Y^ inch from cut edges. 
 
 5. Turn the folded edge over the cut 
 edges to form a binding. Hem by 
 hand at stitching line. 
 
 To finish binding by machine, trim raw 
 edges slightly more. Turn the folded edge 
 beyond stitching line and baste. Stitch on 
 outside in the crease formed by the seam- 
 line. 
 
 I 
 
 BASTE NEAR FOLD 
 
 Details of the French fold. 
 
 [13] 
 
Baste-stitch ruffles to neckline before finishing 
 with a French fold. 
 
 Ruffles are baste-stitched to the neck- 
 line before being finished with a French 
 fold. 
 
 An underf acing can be used as a neck 
 finish. The facing is cut on the same grain 
 line as the dress. If your pattern does not 
 include a piece for the facing, you may 
 make one, fitting it to the neckline. A 
 finished facing is 1% to 3 inches deep. 
 
 Reinforced facings keep neck openings 
 from tearing. A narrow strip of selvage 
 is stiched on the facing at the end of open- 
 ing or at corners before facing is sewed 
 to dress. 
 
 On cottons and some rayons the raw 
 edge of facing is turned under at the stay- 
 line and stitched on the edge. 
 
 Seam tape is used for finishing facings 
 for heavy dress fabrics, fine rayons, and 
 silks. If the facing is curved, dampen and 
 press tape in a curve. The tape is stitched 
 flat to cover raw edge of facing. 
 
 To keep an underfacing flat, press the 
 seam allowances toward the facing side 
 and stitch close to neck seam. 
 
 Do not hem facing to dress. Tack at 
 shoulder seams. 
 
 A top facing is a decorative finish. 
 To have a smooth line at the shoulder, 
 rip the seams about 1% inches from the 
 
 Neck openings will not tear if reinforced with 
 a narrow strip of selvage. 
 
 Dampen seam tape and press into a curve if it 
 is to be used to finish a curved facing. 
 
 Press folded bias strip into a curve for attaching 
 a collar. 
 
 [14] 
 
OUTSIDE 
 
 Baste the collar to the neckline, matching 
 notches. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 \V / CENTER FRONT 
 
 
 A\\ 
 
 ~"T" 
 
 
 
 \\ 
 
 /i 
 
 ♦•FOLD 
 
 
 \. 
 
 ts, y • 
 
 
 
 
 V ^ 
 
 
 OUTSIDE 
 
 
 va 
 
 
 Turn back facing on collar; baste in place. Baste 
 bias across back, cut edges together. 
 
 neckline. Snip the seam allowances and 
 reverse the seams. Restitch seams, trim, 
 and press open. Cover with top facing. 
 
 Collars should roll evenly or lie flat. 
 The edges should be smooth. The same 
 grain line is used for cutting the top and 
 undercollar. Exception : Undercollars are 
 cut on the bias for coats and suits. 
 
 Attaching a collar with double bias: 
 
 1 . Cut true bias strip like collar, 2 
 inches wide and long enough to fin- 
 ish back of collar. The bias laps 
 under front facing about % inch. 
 
 2. Fold bias lengthwise. Baste near 
 fold. Press into curve by stretching 
 folded edge. 
 
 3. Baste collar to neckline. Match 
 notches, center front and center 
 back. 
 
 4. Turn facing back on collar and 
 baste. 
 
 5. Baste bias across the back with 
 cut edges together. 
 
 6. Clip neck curve and stitch entire 
 neck edge on seam line. 
 
 7. Thumb-press and trim seam. 
 
 8. Turn bias to inside. Slip stitch. 
 The collar can be attached with single 
 
 bias tape. The method is the same as that 
 used with double bias except that only 
 
 one raw edge is sewed in the crease on the 
 seam line. 
 
 Attaching a notched collar for a shirt 
 or tailored dress: 
 
 1 . Pin undercollar to center back 
 and shoulder seams, and baste. 
 
 2. Snip collar to seam line at shoul- 
 der seam points. 
 
 3. Baste collar to neckline from cen- 
 ter fronts to shoulder lines. 
 
 4. Turn front facing back; match 
 notches, and stitch around neck on 
 seam line leaving top collar free in 
 back between shoulder seams. 
 
 5. Turn under seam of top collar and 
 hem at neckline. 
 
 6. Tack facings at shoulder seams. 
 
 Notched collar on suits and coats: 
 Use stay-stitching on neckline of the 
 coat and facings. Use stitched V of fine 
 machine stitching at points where collar 
 joins facings and coat fronts. 
 
 1 . Sew undercollar to coat, right 
 sides together. Match notches. 
 
 2. Sew upper collar to facings. 
 
 3. Place front facings with attached 
 collar to right side of assembled 
 coat; match notches, lower edges, 
 center back, and collar joinings. 
 
 [15] 
 
4. For collar roll, draw back top col- 
 lar from edge of undercollar % inch, 
 and pin. 
 
 5. Stitch on facing side on seam line. 
 
 6. Steam-press the seam open. 
 
 7. Trim and grade seam. 
 
 8. Turn and press edge of collar. 
 
 Sleeves 
 
 The fabric grain line of a well set-in 
 sleeve falls straight from the shoulder and 
 at right angles around the arm. 
 
 Machine gather top of sleeve between 
 notches, using lengthened stitch. Two 
 rows of continuous stitching make better 
 gathering than one. Begin stitching along 
 the seam line and return with second row 
 
 Notched collar on tailored blouse. Top: pin 
 undercollar to center back, shoulder seams; 
 baste. Center: turn front facing back, stitch on 
 seam line; leave top collar free between 
 shoulder seams. Bottom: turn under seam al- 
 lowance of top collar; hem at neckline. 
 
 Notched collar on suit or coat. Top: Use stitched 
 V of fine machine stitching at points where 
 the collar joins the facings and coat fronts. 
 Center: sew the undercollar to the coat, right 
 sides together. Bottom: sew the upper collar to 
 facings. 
 
 r 16 ] 
 
Sleeve is stitched into the armhole on the 
 sleeve side. 
 
 of stitching about % inch above the first 
 row. Draw the gathering threads until 
 sleeve loosely fits armhole. Adjust gathers 
 until grain line runs straight across top 
 of sleeve. 
 
 To set the sleeves into the armhole: 
 
 1 . Match the sleeve notches. 
 
 2. Match the %-inch snip and 2-inch 
 baste-stitching line at top of sleeve 
 to the shoulder seam. 
 
 3. Match sleeve underarm seam to 
 the side seam of blouse. 
 
 4. Ease in sleeve fullness evenly. 
 
 The sleeve is stitched to the armhole on 
 the sleeve side. Start the stitching near 
 the underarm and overlap it 2 or 3 inches. 
 A second row of stitching on the stretched 
 seam allowance about % inch from the 
 first stitching makes a sturdy finish. The 
 seams are trimmed evenly and pressed 
 toward the sleeve. 
 
 The lower edges of sleeves are finished 
 like neck finishes — French folds, facings, 
 hems, or cuifs. 
 
 Cuffs are made and attached like col- 
 lars. For an easy mock cuff, make a 2-inch 
 hem and turn it back 1% inches. 
 
 Hems 
 
 Hems should have a smooth, straight 
 line around the lower edge. A straight, 
 
 V 
 
 PLAIN HEMMING 
 
 ^ <-/ ^ 
 
 SLIP-STITCH HEMMING 
 
 =-=-w- 
 
 \-t W W— ' 
 
 Hemming stitches. All edges of hems are basted 
 to the garment Vs inch from the top whether 
 turned under, taped, or pinked. Slip stitching 
 and machine hemming are used on turned 
 edges. 
 
 For running and vertical hemming, roll back Vz 
 inch of the hem edge. For machine hemming, 
 turn garment back and stitch on under side of 
 Vb inch turning. 
 
 [17] 
 
Pull up stitching in small loops, at intervals 
 
 along hem. Press to ease out fullness. Finish 
 
 hem with tape. 
 
 gathered skirt can have a wide hem. 
 Gored and circular skirts have narrow 
 hems — ^4 to 2 inches deep. The more cir- 
 cular the skirt, the narrower the hem. 
 
 Trim hem evenly to the desired width. 
 To ease in fullness rather than pleat it, 
 stitch % inch from the cut edge. Pull up 
 stitching at intervals only enough to take 
 up fullness and permit hem to lie flat. 
 Finish hem with tape or fold under on 
 the stitched line. 
 
 The hems on fine rayons, wool, and 
 heavy fabrics are finished with seam tape. 
 The tape makes a smoother finish if 
 pressed in a curved line. The tape is sewed 
 on the stitched line. Heavy cottons can 
 
 be finished in the same way with bias 
 tape. 
 
 Hand hemming stitches should be 
 small, inconspicuous, slightly loose, and 
 spaced about V2 mcn apart. Start and end 
 hemming about every 12 inches, or at 
 each seam in a gored skirt. Start and end 
 securely with several small stitches taken 
 on the hem fold underneath. 
 
 Plackets 
 
 Skirt and dress zipper plackets should 
 be smooth, and the zipper concealed. Here 
 are the steps: 
 
 1 . Baste-stitch placket opening on 
 seam line. 
 
 2. Press seam open. 
 
 3. Press and baste %-inch fold from 
 seam line on back seam allowance. 
 
 4. Lay the %-inch fold on the out- 
 side of the zipper close to the teeth. 
 Baste and stitch. 
 
 5. Stitch on right side after basting 
 zipper flat across side seam. 
 
 6. Remove the baste-stitching which 
 held placket together. 
 
 Piped buttonholes 
 
 1 . Baste-stitch two lines to indicate 
 buttonhole length. 
 
 
 \ \ 
 
 
 \ \ 
 
 
 \ \ 
 
 
 \ \ • 
 
 
 \ \ 
 
 
 \ \ 
 
 
 
 
 \ \ 
 
 
 
 \ \ 
 
 
 \ V 
 
 
 
 
 \ \ 
 
 
 A ] 
 
 A. Baste-stitch placket opening on seam line. B. Press Vs-inch fold from seam line on back seam 
 
 allowance, baste and stitch to zipper close to teeth. C. Stitch on right side after basting zipper 
 
 flat across the side seam. Remove baste-stitching. 
 
 [18] 
 
Baste-stitch lines % inch above 
 the buttonhole location marks. 
 
 2. Count the number of buttonholes ; 
 measure their total length. Example : 
 6 buttonholes, each 1 inch long, 
 measure 6 inches. 
 
 3. Cut a lengthwise strip twice as 
 long as total length of buttonholes, 
 and 2 inches wide. 
 
 Baste-stitched lines for accurate folding and 
 stitching of buttonhole strip. 
 
 BUTTONHOLE LOCATION 
 
 VJ 
 
 \^~ 
 
 V 
 
 Two vertical lines of baste-stitching indicate 
 buttonhole length. 
 
 Baste-stitched line !4 inch above buttonhole 
 location shows line for top of tucked strip. 
 
 Buttonhole stitching directly on tuck stitching. 
 
 Buttonhole cut through center % inch from 
 each end and diagonally to the corners. 
 
 Ends of buttonhole piping secured by stitch- 
 ing across triangle. 
 
 4. Baste-stitch center of long strip. 
 Baste-stitch two more lines ^-inch 
 from center on each side. 
 
 5. Fold this long strip % inch and 
 stitch a %-inch tuck from fold. Re- 
 peat on other edge. You will have 
 two %-inch tucks ^4 inch apart. 
 
 6. Cut tucked strip into sections 
 twice the length of the buttonhole. 
 
 7. Pin fold of tuck on baste-stitch 
 line of buttonhole, right sides to- 
 gether. 
 
 8. Stitch marked length of button- 
 hole on original tuck stitching, and 
 secure each end by sewing back a 
 few stitches. Repeat on other tuck. 
 
 9. Cut between parallel lines of 
 stitching to % inch from each end. 
 Clip diagonally to each corner. 
 
 1 0. Pull ends of strip to inside, 
 forming square corners at the ends. 
 
 1 1 . Stitch across triangle on the in- 
 side at the end of buttonhole. 
 
 To finish later: 
 
 Stab pins through facing at each end 
 of buttonhole opening. The two pins 
 should follow a grain line. Slit the facing 
 between the pins. Turn raw edges under 
 and hem. 
 
 Darts 
 
 Darts should be smooth, even, and well 
 placed. When beginning and ending 
 darts, as pictured, there is no necessity 
 to tie threads. 
 
 For fine dressmaking, end darts by 
 fastening each machine thread to folded 
 edge of dart, using a hand needle. 
 
 Pressing darts. Dress and skirt darts 
 are pressed toward the center, front and 
 back. Underarm and sleeve darts are 
 pressed down. 
 
 Trimming darts. Large darts in suits 
 and coats may be trimmed to seam width 
 and pressed open. The tip of the dart can 
 be pressed in a tiny box pleat, or split and 
 pressed open. 
 
 [19] 
 
A. Start stitching in 14-inch snip marking out- 
 side edge of dart. B. Stitch back V2 inch on 
 folded edge at point of dart. C. End darts not 
 tapered to a point, by stitching diagonally to 
 fold. 
 
 Coat lining darts are never trimmed 
 nor stitched by machine. They are pressed 
 and tacked by catch stitches. 
 
 Machine gathering 
 
 For gathering, adjust sewing machine, 
 8 to 10 stitches to the inch. Two rows of 
 continuous stitching make better gather- 
 ing than one. Begin stitching along the 
 seam line, and return with second row of 
 stitching about % inch above the first 
 row. Draw the gathering tight by pulling 
 the underthreads. Press gathers between 
 the fingers. Loosen gathers to fit. The 
 gathers can be locked at the end by pull- 
 ing the upper and lower threads. 
 
 Seams 
 
 Plain seams are satisfactory for most 
 garments. For accurate seams, match ends 
 of seams and notches. 
 
 Use a seam guide to help you stitch 
 even seams. Use the tape measure in set- 
 ting the guide for stitching a seam. Crease 
 a tape measure on an inch line, place it 
 under the presser foot, and drop the ma- 
 chine needle on the seam allowance line. 
 The presser foot holds the tape measure 
 in place until the guide is set and fastened 
 securely. If a strip of cellophane tape is 
 being used as a guide, paste it on the bed 
 of the sewing machine. 
 
 To join bias and straight edges in a 
 seam, stitch with the bias side up. 
 
 To ease one edge of a seam to the other, 
 stitch the seam with the eased side up. 
 
 To join a gathered edge and a straight 
 or bias edge, stitch exactly on the gather- 
 ing line with the gathered side up. 
 
 To join an inside curved edge to a 
 straight edge, or to join two curved edges, 
 slash the seam edges almost to the stay- 
 stitching. Then stitch as a straight seam. 
 
 Extra finishing is needed on some 
 seams to keep them from raveling. The 
 fabric thickness, firmness of weave, and 
 degree of raveling will influence the 
 choice of finish. 
 
 Seam finishes : 
 
 1 . Overcasting by hand or zigzag 
 attachment. 
 
 2. One or 2 rows of small machine 
 stitching. 
 
 Use tape measure in setting seam guide to the A strip of cellophane tape may be used instead 
 desired width. of a seam guide. 
 
 [20] 
 
3. Stitching and pinking. 
 
 4. Edges turned under and stitched. 
 
 5. Seam binding applied flat. 
 
 Pinking is of little value for clothes 
 that are washed often, but may be useful 
 for clothes that will be dry cleaned. 
 
 The seams of unlined jackets are often 
 finished with edges turned under and 
 stitched, or with seam binding applied 
 flat to cover raw edges. 
 
 Fell seams can be used for play shorts 
 or slacks, pajamas, and shirts. Two rows 
 of stitching % inch apart show on the 
 outside of the garment; the inside is 
 smooth. Side seams are usually plain 
 seams on shorts and slacks. Do not make 
 a fell seam where a zipper is used. 
 
 The Red Cross method is a simple way 
 to make a good fell seam: 
 
 a. Place the wrong sides together. 
 
 b. Trim half the seam allowance on 
 one side of the seam. 
 
 c. Crease ^-inch fold on the other 
 side. 
 
 d. Slip trimmed side into fold. 
 
 e. Pin and baste if necessary. 
 
 f . Stitch on the outside % inch from 
 folded edge. 
 
 g. Lay open seam flat against gar- 
 ment and stitch close to folded edge. 
 
 Note: All stitching is on the outside. 
 
 French seams can be used for under- 
 wear, sleeping garments, and certain 
 clothes made of transparent fabrics. 
 French seams are rarely used for dresses. 
 
 a. Baste and stitch seams on right 
 side of garment % to *4 inch nar- 
 rower than seam allowance. 
 
 b. Trim to % inch or slightly less. 
 
 c. Press seam open; turn garment to 
 wrong side and crease along seam. 
 Baste on creased edge. 
 
 d. Stitch the seam on inside deep 
 enough to include all trimmed edges. 
 
 [21 
 
 Lapped seams can be used for shaped 
 yokes. 
 
 a. Stay-stitch slightly less than seam 
 allowance around raw edges of yoke. 
 
 b. Turn on seamline and press. 
 
 c. Miter corners or clip curves. 
 
 d. Match and pin the turned edge of 
 the yoke to the other part of the 
 seam. 
 
 e. Stitch near the folded edge. 
 
 Woven plaids 
 
 Plaids take time to cut and sew. Gar- 
 ments made of plaid require more yard- 
 age than those made of plain fabric. 
 Sewing must be done carefully or the 
 matched plaid will slip out of line. 
 
 To be attractive, the plaid should be 
 centered front and back. The collar and 
 belt are centered, and match the blouse 
 and skirt. The plaids match on the front, 
 back, and side seams. The sleeves match 
 the bodice. 
 
 You can buy plaids that are either bal- 
 anced or unbalanced in design. Plaids 
 that are balanced have no up and down 
 nor left and right. Unbalanced plaids 
 have an up and down and a left and right. 
 
 Lapped seams and mitered corners used on a 
 shaped yoke. 
 
Layout for a balanced, woven plaid dress. Plaid 
 matches at hipline, center front, center back, 
 and notches at armhole and bodice. 
 
 m=" — n 
 
 Pattern layout for unbalanced, woven plaid 
 blouse. Plaid reversed in one front and one 
 sleeve will balance the design. 
 
 Unbalanced plaids are more difficult to 
 cut and match than balanced plaids. 
 
 Avoid printed plaids that do not follow 
 grain line. 
 
 Match the design from the right side 
 and top baste. 
 
 Steps in top basting are : 
 
 a. Lap folded seam allowance of one 
 side over the opposite side. Match 
 and pin the same color stripes. 
 
 b. Top baste with long and short 
 stitches directly on the fold. 
 
 c. Leave 2 inches extra thread at the 
 end and make a knot. 
 
 d. Loosen bastings slightly. Turn to 
 wrong side. Stitch in the crease indi- 
 cated by the basting. 
 
 [22] 
 
 Finished blouse of unbalanced plaid. 
 
Top basting for matching plaids. 
 
 Skirt now top basted, ready for stitching. 
 
 Stripes 
 
 The center front and center back 
 should be placed on a stripe or between 
 stripes. Matching stripes are then top 
 basted. 
 
 Patterned fabrics 
 
 Some designs with printed or woven 
 motifs should be centered or balanced on 
 the blouse and skirt. Use top basting to 
 match the motifs. 
 
 TIPS ON HANDLING FABRICS 
 
 Fabrics made from natural 
 fibers 
 
 Cotton, flax, silk, and wool are natural 
 fibers that have been used throughout 
 the ages. 
 
 Cotton fabric finishes 
 
 Certain finishes used on cottons change 
 the physical properties of the material. 
 For this reason, the normal ironing tem- 
 perature may need to be lowered. Also, 
 bleaches normally used on cottons may 
 yellow them because of the finish used. 
 
 Linen fabrics 
 
 Linen (made of flax) should be han- 
 dled in a manner similar to that used for 
 cotton in cutting, pressing, and sewing. 
 Some linen fabrics, due to their weaves, 
 tend to ravel more than most cottons. 
 Extra seam finishes may be desirable. 
 Dress linen is usually treated for crush 
 resistance and shrinkage. 
 
 Silk fabrics 
 
 Follow the same precautions when sew- 
 ing and pressing silk as for fabrics of 
 man-made fibers (page 26). 
 
 Wool fabrics 
 
 Medium-weight woolens, such as flan- 
 nel, tweed, and fleece, are easy to tailor 
 because they take the shape of the gar- 
 ment readily. Woolen materials that have 
 a soft, lightly napped surface do not show 
 seam lines when pressed. A beginner in 
 tailoring should avoid firm, smooth 
 worsteds, such as men's suitings and 
 gabardines, because they are difficult to 
 shape and press. 
 
 Shrinking wool. Wool fabric should 
 be shrunk before being cut and made 
 into a garment. Even if the fabric is 
 labeled preshrunk, home shrinking is 
 necessary. 
 
 a. Dip a sheet into warm water and 
 wring dry. 
 
 [23] 
 
Use a cotton and a wool pressing cloth for 
 woolens. 
 
 b. Lay folded wool on sheet. 
 
 c. Fold edges of sheet over cloth. 
 Fold over and over lightly the entire 
 length. 
 
 d. Cover with paper or turkish towel 
 for two hours. 
 
 e. Remove material from sheet and 
 lay it on flat surface. (Oilcloth will 
 protect table or floor.) 
 
 f . Smooth material so that it will dry 
 straight with the grain, the ends and 
 sides forming right angles. 
 
 When this method is used, the wool will 
 not need pressing before cutting. The first 
 pressing comes after the units are made. 
 
 Pressing wool. Wool must be pressed 
 with steam. A wool pressing cloth should 
 be used to protect the wool. If a regular 
 iron is used, place a wool pressing cloth 
 next to the wool and cover it with a dam- 
 pened cotton cloth to get steam. 
 
 Use plenty of steam, and press lightly 
 with the grain line. Never bear down with 
 the iron. Never iron back and forth. 
 Never press wool until it is completely 
 dry; allow it to dry naturally. 
 
 Press on wood or a firm ironing board 
 for well creased edges and to avoid seam 
 marks. Another precaution to avoid press 
 marks is to brush the right side of the 
 wool while steaming. 
 
 Shape curved parts of the garment, 
 such as shoulder, top of sleeves, and bust, 
 over a pressing ham or pad. 
 
 To crease hems and edges, beat with 
 wooden clapper while fabric contains 
 steam. 
 
 Fabrics of man-made fibers 
 
 Some of the man-made fibers are: 
 rayon, acetate, nylon, vicara, orlon, 
 acrilan, dacron, dynel, saran, and the yet 
 unnamed X51. 
 
 Not all of these man-made fibers are 
 commonly found on the fabric market. 
 Some will prove as useful as rayon, ace- 
 tate, and nylon as soon as they come into 
 sufficient production. 
 
 Many of the man-made fibers are 
 blended in fabrics with other fibers, man- 
 made as well as natural. However, the 
 fiber content is but one of the important 
 factors affecting the wearing qualities 
 and usefulness of a fabric. Yarn construc- 
 tion, weave, blend, and amount of dif- 
 ferent fibers affect the durability. Also, 
 the performance of any fabric depends 
 on its correct use. For example, certain 
 fiber types do not absorb water; these 
 might well be used in rainwear. Others 
 cannot be ironed satisfactorily and there- 
 fore are ideal in knitted wear that re- 
 quires no ironing. 
 
 Because of the different physical prop- 
 erties of fibers, manufacturers should 
 
 A pressing ham is an aid in shaping curved 
 parts of garment. 
 
 Beat with wooden clapper while fabric contains 
 steam. 
 
 [24] 
 
give information on care of fabric. If a Vicara 
 label gives directions for care, keep it for 
 reference. 
 
 Properties of some man-made fibers 
 In the following lists, plus signs (+) 
 indicate the fibers' good qualities; minus 
 signs (-) show the less desirable char- 
 acteristics. 
 
 Rayon + Has many properties of cot- 
 ton 
 
 + Can be made to look like any 
 of the natural fibers 
 
 + Takes color well 
 
 + Washable 
 
 + Inexpensive 
 
 - Loses about half of strength 
 
 when wet, but regains it on 
 drying 
 
 - Will shrink unless treated 
 Acetate + Fast drying 
 
 + Resistant to shrinking and 
 mildew 
 
 + Can be heat set for perma- 
 nent pleating and perma- Acrilan 
 nent moire 
 
 + Drapes well 
 
 - Must be pressed lightly with 
 
 cool iron and special care 
 to keep it from becoming 
 shiny 
 
 - Dissolves with nail polish or 
 
 remover containing ace- 
 tone 
 
 - Subject to gas fading unless 
 
 treated 
 
 - Requires special dyes 
 
 Nylon + Strong and resilient Dacron 
 
 + Quick drying 
 + Will not shrink 
 + Easily cleaned 
 + Resists mildew and insects 
 + Strong when wet 
 
 - Must be ironed with low heat 
 
 or fabric will fuse 
 
 - Uncomfortable to wear in hot 
 
 weather because it is non- 
 absorbent 
 
 - Tends to pucker in sewing 
 
 [25] 
 
 + Wool-like — warm to touch, 
 absorbent, resilient 
 
 + Blends well with all fibers, 
 especially wool and nylon 
 in knit and pile fabrics 
 
 -Must be blended with other 
 fibers for strength 
 
 - Tends to mat when wet 
 
 - Weak when wet 
 + Very strong 
 
 + Low shrinkage 
 
 + Excellent resistance to sun 
 and weather 
 
 + Resistant to mildew and in- 
 sects 
 
 + Can be heat-set for perma- 
 nent shape 
 
 + Can be blended with wool or 
 rayon for suitings 
 
 - Must be pressed at low to 
 
 medium temperature to 
 avoid yellowing 
 
 - High sheen may be objection- 
 
 able in some articles 
 
 - Poor absorption 
 + Very strong 
 
 + Quick drying 
 
 + Wrinkle-resistant 
 
 + Resistant to moth and mildew 
 
 + Wool-like — warm to touch, 
 
 has bulk without weight 
 + Can be blended with wool or 
 
 rayon and other fibers for 
 
 suitings 
 
 - Must be pressed at low to 
 
 medium temperatures to 
 avoid yellowing 
 
 - Poor absorption 
 + Tough, resilient 
 + Quick drying 
 
 + Wrinkle-resistant 
 + Retains shape when wet 
 + Can be heat-set to make per- 
 manent creases or pleats 
 and to prevent shrinkage 
 + In blends, makes good wrin- 
 kle-resistant suitings 
 
 - Must be ironed at low tem- 
 
 peratures or shape may be 
 distorted 
 
Dacron (Continued) 
 
 - Cannot be dyed easily 
 
 - Poor absorption 
 
 Dynel + Wool-like, warm to touch, 
 and resilient 
 
 4 Quick drying 
 
 + Shrink-resistant 
 
 + Resistant to mildew, insects, 
 chemical action, flame (ex- 
 cellent for protective cloth- 
 ing) 
 
 + Can take permanent pleats 
 and does not muss easily 
 even when wet 
 
 - Most heat-sensitive of all syn- 
 
 thetic fibers 
 
 - Will become "boardy" if 
 
 washed or ironed at high 
 temperatures 
 
 - Cannot be dyed easily 
 
 - Tends to shed in usage 
 
 - Poor absorption 
 
 Precautions when pressing fabrics 
 of man-made fibers 
 
 1 . Test fabric for correct iron tem- 
 perature by touching iron to a seam. Test 
 fabric before using steam because exces- 
 sive moisture crinkles some fibers. 
 
 2. Use a cool iron on most fabrics of 
 man-made fibers. 
 
 3. Press on the wrong side whenever 
 possible. 
 
 4. Use a pressing cloth when pressing 
 on right side. 
 
 5. Press lightly. 
 
 6. Press with grain line. 
 
 7. Use firm ironing surface, not a 
 softly padded one, to avoid seam marks. 
 
 8. Press seams open over a rolled 
 magazine or a half round of wood. 
 
 9. Use strips of paper under seams or 
 darts to avoid press marks on right side. 
 
 Acetate should be pressed with a cool 
 iron. Very little pressure is needed. When 
 using steam, press to smooth — not to dry. 
 
 [ 
 
 Rayon can be pressed with a some- 
 what warmer iron than that used for ace- 
 tate. If the rayon fabric is a crepey weave 
 or one that will stretch, press carefully to 
 retain the shape of the garment. 
 
 Nylon, dacron, and orlon garments 
 require only a touching up of seams, 
 hems, and edges with a cool iron. 
 
 Precautions when sewing 
 
 Sewing on the fabrics of newer man- 
 made fibers is in the experimental stages. 
 
 There are a few precautions to take. 
 
 Cover the cutting table either with oil- 
 cloth wrong side up, or with a tightly 
 stretched sheet. Cloth will then cling and 
 stay in place during cutting. This will 
 help you cut many fabrics that tend to 
 slip or slide readily. 
 
 Stay-stitch the units of a garment to 
 prevent stretching the fabric while mak- 
 ing. 
 
 Pin every long seam while the fabric 
 is on the cutting table. This avoids stretch- 
 ing the cloth in one place and easing it in 
 another. 
 
 Handle the fabric as little as possible 
 during the construction of a garment. 
 Keep it wrinkle-free on hanger or lying 
 flat. 
 
 Thread to use 
 
 Mercerized cotton thread can be used 
 for most sewing. For especially sturdy 
 sewing, use heavy-duty thread. Cotton 
 thread can be used on all fabrics of natu- 
 ral or man-made fibers and blends. 
 
 Silk thread is strong and is sometimes 
 used on wool. However, it is glossy for 
 outside stitching on wool. 
 
 Threads of man-made fibers may be 
 used for sewing fabrics made of those 
 fibers. These threads are in the experi- 
 mental stage, and colors are limited. The 
 pressing temperature must be lowered 
 when pressing a garment stitched with 
 these threads. 
 
 Nylon thread often untwists and makes 
 threading a needle and hand sewing diffi- 
 cult. Seams stitched with nylon thread 
 
 26 ] 
 
have a tendency to pucker because of the your sewing machine may be desirable, 
 
 fiber's elasticity. A new needle hole may be made by 
 
 Test the machine stitching on the cloth pasting cellophane tape over the needle 
 
 before you start. The upper tension may hole of the sewing machine and punctur- 
 
 need to be loosened. ing the tape with the fine needle. 
 
 A fine machine needle may be needed A smaller needle hole allows less 
 
 when stitching with nylon thread. A "pl av " m tne thread ; thus, less puckering 
 
 smaller needle hole on the face plate of results. 
 
 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 
 
 Material in this manual describing the unit method of making a garment is drawn 
 from the book The Unit Method of Sewing, and is used with the kind permission of 
 The Iowa State College Press, Ames, Iowa. 
 
 Information on the man-made fibers is based on material included in the J. C. Pen- 
 ney laboratory's textile exhibit in cooperation with companies manufacturing the 
 newer fibers. 
 
 [27] 
 
In order that the information in our publications may be more intelligible it is sometimes necessary 
 to use trade names of products or equipment rather than complicated descriptive or chemical iden- 
 tifications. In so doing it is unavoidable in some cases that similar products which are on the market 
 under other trade names may not be cited. No endorsement of named products is intended nor is 
 criticism implied of similar products which are not mentioned. 
 
 Cooperative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economies, College o Agriculture. Omv, -ity of Californ 
 cooperating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30. 1914 J Earl Coke, Di 
 
 id United states Departmen 
 
 t of Agriculti 
 
 •. California Aericultural El 
 
 :tension Servi 
 
 20m-12,'53(A5634)LL 
 
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