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 JOURNAL 
 
 OF A 
 
 VOYAGE TO PERU, 
 
LONDON: 
 lEOTSON AND PALMER, PRINTERS, SAVOY STREET, STRAND. 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 OF A 
 
 VOYAGE TO PERU: 
 
 A PASSAGE 
 ACROSS THE CORDILLERA OF THE ANDES, 
 
 IN THE WINTER OF 1827, 
 . PERFORMED ON FOOT IN THE SNOW; 
 AND 
 
 A JOURNEY ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 
 
 BY LIEUT. CHAS. BRAND, R. N. 
 
 LONDON: 
 HENRY COLBURN, NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 
 
 1828. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The following sheets contain a narrative of my 
 journey across the Continent of South Ame- 
 rica, in the month of August, 1827 ; and ray re- 
 turn by the same route in the month of Decem- 
 ber following. 
 
 The Journal was written, according to a 
 very general custom amongst Naval Officers, 
 solely for the information and amusement of 
 
 47c>94o 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 my friends, without any view to publication; 
 but, since my arrival in this country, I have 
 •been- JDersuaded to present it to the notice 
 '•of-the -pkbl'Ic, in the humble hope that it may 
 be found to contain some information useful 
 to those, whose business or pleasure may lead 
 them to pursue the paths which I have so re- 
 cently trodden. 
 
 To the character of a literary work, this Jour- 
 nal has no pretensions ; for it was written in 
 haste from day to day, during very rapid jour- 
 nies. Every scene described was written on 
 the spot ; and circumstances have since pre- 
 vented me from arranging these hasty sketches 
 in a form more worthy the public attention. 
 I trust, however, that it will be found to con- 
 tain a faithful account of the various difficul- 
 ties a traveller has to encounter in crossing 
 
PREFACE. VU 
 
 the Continent of South America in the winter 
 season ; and I hope that the kind indulgence 
 so generally extended towards a first produc- 
 tion, will not be withheld on the present oc- 
 casion. 
 
 London, July 1, 1828. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Page 
 
 Introduction— Departure from England — Feelings 
 of the Passengers — Pass under the Sun — Divine 
 Service at Sea — Reflection — Cross the Equator — ■ 
 Neptune's Visit — Arrive at Rio Janeiro — Scenery 
 of Rio Janeiro — Description of the Slave Market 
 — Visit to the Botanical Garden — Sail from Rio 
 Janeiro — Arrival at Monte Video — Prepare to 
 Travel through the Banda Oriental . . 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Leave Monte Video — Reports of the state of the 
 Banda Oriental — Brazilian Out-posts — Patriot 
 Out-posts — Wild appearance of the Troops — Ar- 
 rive at Canelones — Departure — Guide's fear of 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 Robbers — Get benighted, and lose our way — 
 Method of marking horses — Deserters about — 
 Arrive at Las Vacas — Embark in an open whale- 
 boat to cross Rio de la Plata — Driven on the 
 Sand-banks — Arrive at Buenos Ayres — Prepare 
 for crossing the Pampas . . .21 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 Leave Buenos Ayres — First night on the Pampas — 
 Description of a Post-House — Posts protected 
 against the Indians — Description of a Gaucho 
 and his Family — Fire on the Pampas — Beautiful 
 driving of the Peons — Family of Indians — 
 Hunting Deer and Ostriches — Cruelty of the 
 Gauchos to their Horses — Hear of Robbers — 
 View of the Hills of Sierra de Cordova — Arrive 
 at Punta de Agua . . .36 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Carriage upset — Dexterity of the Peons — Cross a 
 River — Storm on the Pampas — Indian Chief and 
 Two Captives arrive — Pampas Music — Arrive at 
 San Luis — Rio Desaguadero — Night Scene — 
 First sight of the Andes — Arrive at Mendoza — 
 Description of the Natives of the Pampas — Tra- 
 
CONTENTS. XI 
 
 Page 
 veiling Companions — Ball at Mendoza — Meudo- 
 za Ladies — Alameda or Public Walk — Prepara- 
 tions for entering the Andes . . 54 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Leave Mendoza — Enter the Andes — Arrive at Vil- 
 lavicencia — Twelve Peons blocked up in a Snow- 
 storm — Dead Mules — Singular appearance of 
 them — Sufferings of the Ancient Indians — First 
 sight of the Cordillera — Grand and awful appear- 
 ance — Reflection — Arrive at Uspallata — Peon 
 found blind in the Cordillera — First pass swept 
 away — Description of its Dangers — Guanaco 
 caught — INIagnificent natural Bed-Chamber in 
 the Cordillera — Electricity found in our Clothes — 
 Difficulties commence — Fourth Pass covered with 
 Snow — Its Dangers — Lose a Mule down the 
 Mountain — Fifth Pass covered with Snow — Ex- 
 treme Danger — Lose two more Mules — Second 
 night in the Cordillera, with wild Bed-Chamber 
 and Gale of Wind — Leave the Mules, and pro- 
 ceed on foot — A Peon rolls down a Mountain of 
 Snow, and breaks his foot — Distress and labour 
 of the Peons — Dead Peon in the Snow — Reflec- 
 tion . , . . .84 
 
XII CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Page 
 
 Lose all sight of the Track — Inca's Bridge choked 
 up with Snow — One of our Peons found nearly 
 dead in the Snow — Severity of the cold — Interest- 
 ing Extracts of the Sufferings of the French 
 Army in Russia — Advice to Travellers — Snow- 
 storm comes on — Peons lose their Courage — De- 
 sert our Luggage, and make a precipitate Re- 
 treat to the Casucha — Blocked up till the next 
 day — Description of a Snow-storm — Excessive 
 cold. Thermometer fifteen degrees below freezing 
 point . . . . .116 
 
 CHAPTER VL conthtued. 
 
 Storm abates — Proceed — Find our Luggage buried 
 in Snow — Cross over natural Bridges of Snow — 
 Arrive at the Foot of the Cumbre — Magnificent 
 Appearance — Description of the Ascent — Arrive 
 at the Summit — Puna, or Difficulty of Breathing .. 
 — Descend immediately — Deserted Goods laying 
 in the Cordillera — Terrific Descent of the Cuesta 
 de Concual — Method of Descending — Meet our 
 Peons from Chili — Clear the Snow — Feelings at 
 the Time — Arrive at a deserted Guard-house — 
 Alto del Soldado, or Soldier's Leap — Arrive at 
 the Valley of Aconcagua — Chilian Ladies — Val- 
 
CONTENTS. Xlll 
 
 Pag-e 
 
 ley of Quillota — Arrive at Valparaiso — Advice to 
 Travellers — Table of Thermometrioal Observa- 
 tions . . . . .143 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Description of Valparaiso — Effects of the Earth- 
 quake — Leave Valparaiso — Arrive at Callao — 
 Entrance to Lima — Lima Ladies — Robberies and 
 Murders — Description of a Temblor, or Shock 
 of an Earthquake — Dress of the Ladies of Lima 
 — Description of a Religious Procession — Leave 
 Lima — Island of Juan Fernandez . . 172 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Affecting History of two Brothers — Gale of Wind 
 at Sea — Arrive at Valparaiso — Leave Valparaiso 
 — Description of aCuesta, with troops of Mules 
 — Arrive at Santiago — Reports of the unsettled 
 State of the Pampas — Prepare for crossing the 
 Andes— Climate of Chili . . .194 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Leave Santiago — Bad road — Arrive at Santa Rosa 
 — Drunken Courier — Lav in Provisions for the 
 
XIV CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 Cordillera — Leave Santa Rosa — Enter the Andes 
 — Remarks on Travellers — First Night in the 
 Andes — Description of El Alto del Soldado — La 
 Guardia de los Hornillos — Second Night in the 
 Andes — Ascent of the Cuesta de Concual — As- 
 cent of the Cumbre — View from the summit of 
 Cumbre — Descent of the Cumbre — Method of 
 Crossing rapid Rivers — Lose two Mules in a River 
 — Description of the Inca's Bridge — Description 
 of the Cordillera Lions — Third Night in the 
 Andes . .■ . . .214 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Description of a Portable Canteen for the Cordillera, 
 or Pampas — Rio de las Vacas — Its Dangers — 
 Mules lost in crossing — A Man nearly lost — 
 Fourth Night in the Andes — Arrive at Uspallata 
 — View of the Cordillera — Fifth Night in the 
 Andes — Villavicencia — Arrive at Mendoza — Bull 
 Fight at Mendoza — Prepare for the Pampas — 
 Engage the Courier — Leave Mendoza — Arrive at 
 San Luis — Reports of Robbers — Head of a Rob- 
 ber stuck upon a Pole — Fall from a Wild Horse — 
 Swarms of Locusts — Arrive at Frayle Muerto — 
 Desmochado, millions of Mosquitos — Lose my 
 Note Book — A Peon brings it back — Galloped 
 
CONTENTS. XV 
 
 Page 
 Thirty-six Miles in Two Hours and a Half— Leave 
 the Courier — Meet an English Merchant — Storm 
 in the Pampas — Overtaken by Mr. Robertson — 
 Proceed on together — Arrive at Buenos Ayres . 245 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 Seasons for Crossing the Cordillera — Hints to Tra- 
 vellers — Peculiarities of the Natives of the Pam- 
 pas — How to gain their good -will — Reasons for ^' 
 Travelhng so rapidly — Directions for Preserving 
 the Stin in a hot Sun or cold Wind — Ladies of 
 Buenos Ayres compared with those of Lima, Chili, 
 See. — Description of a Pampero— Washerwomen 
 of Buenos Ayres — Religion at Buenos Ayres 
 compared with Peru — Effects of distributing the 
 Bible in Peru — Description of South American 
 Houses . . . .274 
 
 CHAPTER XIL 
 
 Leave Buenos Ayres — Run on the Chico Bank — 
 Description of a ship on shore — Arrive at Monte 
 Video — Arrive at Rio Janeiro— Emperor of the Bra- 
 zils, Queen of Portugal, &,c.— Theatres in South 
 America compared with those of England — Re- 
 
XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 flection on the rising of the North Star — Stormy 
 Weather — Arrive at St. Michael's—Leave St. 
 Michael's — Arrive in England . . 297 
 
 Conclusion . . . 313 
 
 APPENDIX. [A.] 
 
 Outivard-hoiind Voyage. 
 
 No. I. Abstract of the Voyage from England to 
 
 Rio Janeiro . . . 329 
 
 II. Abstract of the Voyage from Rio Janeiro to 
 
 Monte Video . . .331 
 
 III. List ofthePost-Houses in travelhng through 
 
 the Banda Oriental . . 332 
 
 -\^ IV. List of the Post-Houses in crossing the 
 Pampas, from Buenos Ayres to Men- 
 doza .... 333 
 
 V. List of the Posts and Casuchas, in cross- 
 
 ing the Andes from Mendoza to Valpa- 
 raiso . . . .335 
 
 VI, Abstract of the Voyage from Valparaiso 
 
 to Callao * . 
 
 * I regret to state^ that the abstract of tliis voyaofe lias un- 
 fortunately been lost. 
 
CONTENTS. XVU 
 
 APPENDIX. [B.] 
 Homeward-bound Voyage. 
 
 Page 
 
 No. I. Abstract of the Voyage from Callao to Val- 
 paraiso . . . .336 
 
 II. List of the Posts and Casuchas in crossing 
 
 the Andes from Valparaiso to Mendoza . 338 
 
 III. List of the Post-Houses in crossing the Pam- 
 
 pas from Mendoza to Buenos Ayres . 339 
 
 IV. Abstract of the Voyage from Buenos Ayres 
 
 to Rio Janeiro . . .341 
 
 V. Abstract of the Voyage from Rio Janeiro 
 
 to England . . .342 
 
 VI. Analysis of the Mineral Water from the 
 
 hot Springs at the Inca's Bridge in the 
 Cordillera of the Andes . . 344 
 
ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Ascending the Cumbre of the Andes. . to face the Title. 
 TravelHng on the Pampas with a relay 
 
 of Horses to face Page 65 
 
 Descending the Cuesta de Concual, in 
 
 the Cordillera of the Andes .... Page 1 55 
 
 A Lady of Lima in her Walking 
 
 Dress Page 185 
 
ERRATUM, 
 
 Page 272, for three hundred and eight leagues, read three hundred and 
 
 nine. 
 
JOURNAL 
 
 OF A 
 
 VOYAGE TO PERU, 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Introduction — Departure from England — Feelings of the Pas- 
 sengers — Pass under the Sun — Divine Service at Sea — 
 Reflection — Cross the Equator — Neptune's Visit — Arrive 
 at Rio Janeiro — Scenery of Rio Janeiro — Description of 
 the Slave Market — Visit to the Botanical Garden — Sail 
 from Rio Janeiro — Arrival at Monte Video — Prepare to 
 Travel through the Banda Oriental. 
 
 In commencing the narrative of ray journey, I 
 shall not detain my readers with any account of 
 the nature or objects of the mission on which 
 I was employed, as my purpose is merely 
 to give them an account of the journey itself. 
 
 B 
 
A INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Dispensing, therefore, with all preliminary ob- 
 servations, I shall place myself at once on board 
 his Majesty's Packet, Duke of York, sailing 
 from Falmouth on the 23d of April, 1827, on 
 her voyage to Monte Video, where she was to 
 land her passengers for Buenos Ayres, in conse- 
 quence of that port being closely blockaded by 
 the Brazilian squadron. 
 
 If this had been the first time of bidding adieu 
 to my native land, I might probably have in- 
 dulged in some reflections on the occasion ; but 
 being accustomed from my childhood to a life of 
 wandering, such frequent departures from the 
 shores of old England have destroyed the no- 
 velty of those sensations which necessarily arise 
 when taking a last, long, and lingering look 
 at the white cliffs fading from the view. I will 
 not, therefore, weaken those feelings by attempt- 
 ing a description whicli would be devoid of all 
 the interesting charms of novelty ; yet I could 
 not help observing the extraordinary way in 
 which they worked upon those who had left 
 
DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND, 6 
 
 their homes and country for the first time in 
 their lives. As they were fast losing sight of that 
 dear land of their fathers^, their hearts appeared 
 to sink within them — every tender feeling and 
 association seemed to arise; and from never 
 having experienced the same sensations before, 
 they gazed with astonishment as it receded from 
 their view, straining their eyes to catch the last 
 faint glimpse, until the involuntary tear con- 
 vinced them that all traces were gone, save 
 what remained in memory alone. Then would 
 they seek to give vent to their feelings in the 
 privacy of their cabins, from whence might be 
 heard many a deep-drawn sigh issuing from a 
 heart that keenly felt what it was thus to part 
 from all it held most dear, — probably for ever. 
 
 Proceeding on our course, at the rate of 140 
 miles per day, with a fine fair breeze fi^om the 
 SW., we made Porto Santo on the 3d of May, 
 and were fortunate enough to fall in with the 
 NE. trade wind. 
 
 The dawn of the ensuing morning presented 
 
 b2 
 
4 FEELINGS OF THE PASSENGERS. 
 
 to our view the beautiful island of Madeira, with 
 its lofty summits enveloped in dark grey clouds ; 
 and the next day we passed the Deserters, bear- 
 ing West, from whence a fresh departure was 
 taken. We soon began to feel a sensible change 
 of temperature, accompanied by a continuance 
 of fine weather, the effects of which were very 
 perceptible amongst our sea-sick passengers, 
 whose spirits beginning to revive, the stiffness 
 natural to a first introduction, was soon ex- 
 changed for mutual cordiality; and the usual 
 jokes were commenced upon those who had 
 not been at sea before, (of whom there were 
 several,) such as persuading them that por- 
 poises were young whales, or that every sail 
 we saw was a pirate bearing down to plun- 
 der us, &c. However ridiculous these things 
 may appear to my readers, the degree of cre- 
 dibility with which they were received was highly 
 amusing to us ; and were it not for a few of 
 these practical jokes now and then, the mono- 
 tony of a sea voyage would sometimes be very 
 
FLYING FISH. 5 
 
 irksome; for, pent up in a small vessel, the 
 spirits will droop ; and where is recreation to be 
 found, but in amusements so apparently trifling 
 as these ? 
 
 On the 1th of May we crossed the tropic of 
 Cancer, in long. 20° 8' W. Old Neptune, ac- 
 cording to custom, hailed the ship from his in- 
 visible car, in order to procure the names of 
 those who had not travelled in his dominions 
 before. After receiving them, he vanished, pro- 
 mising to pay another visit at his head-quarters, 
 (the Equator,) very much to the horror of some 
 of our friends on board, who verily believed the 
 ship struck upon the line. 
 
 Flying-fish, and " Holothuria physalis,'* com- 
 monly called Portuguese men-of-war, now be- 
 gan to make their appearance ; and the beautiful 
 prismatic-coloured bladders of the latter, as the 
 sun shone upon them, reflected all the beautiful 
 rays of sparkling emeralds. Should any person 
 happen to touch the long fibres that hang from 
 them, he will suffer most excruciating pain, far 
 
b DIVINE SERVICE AT SEA. 
 
 worse than that which is produced by stinging- 
 nettles. 
 
 On the ^th, we passed under the sun, in lat. 
 17° 15' N. but owing to the denseness of the 
 atmosphere, and fine strong breeze, felt no in- 
 convenience from the heat; the thermometer 
 standing at 72° of Fahrenheit (which I shall 
 always quote) in the shade. The next day we 
 passed the island of Bonavista, one of the Cape 
 de Verds, but the weather being hazy, our view 
 of it was very indistinct. 
 
 May Wth. Sultry weather; ther. 80°. The 
 Pole star now began to draw its course very 
 near the horizon ; a sure sign of our rapid pro- 
 gress into the southern hemisphere. 
 
 May I3tk. Sunday. Light winds with sultry 
 weather; ther. 84°. Divine service was per- 
 formed by the captain ; and it was truly pleasing 
 to observe the very great attention paid by the 
 crew on this occasion, most of whom had their 
 bibles and prayer-books. The quiet and orderly 
 behaviour of this ship's company was particu- 
 
DIVINE SERVICE AT SEA. 7 
 
 larly remarked by Captain Lyon and the other 
 passengers. Not a word of offensive language, 
 or an oath was heard on board ; and, it is but 
 justice to Lieutenant Snell, the commander, to 
 say, that no greater proof could be given of 
 the good order and discipline of his ship. The 
 sight was truly gratifying; for where can 
 there be one more solemn and impressive, than 
 a body of sailors assembled together on a ship's 
 decks, beneath the vast canopy of heaven, 
 floating on the mighty waters, rendering their 
 praise to " Him, who alone spreadest out the 
 heavens, and rulest the raging of the sea," — 
 when every thing around them speaks so sen- 
 sibly to their minds, how dependent they are 
 upon His mercy and goodness for protection — 
 only a few inches of frail plank between them 
 and eternity ; and, probably, not another human 
 voice, save theirs, floating on the silent deep for 
 thousands of miles around them? Would sailors 
 but reflect, then would they acknowledge the 
 wonders of the Lord ! 
 
8 REFLECTION. 
 
 It has often struck me, and may not here be 
 inapplicable, that a sailor's life, above all others, 
 is the one that ought to inspire him with holy 
 thoughts and incline him to piety; having the 
 force of his own insignificance so continually 
 before his eyes, he cannot but hourly feel what 
 he is in the great scale of creation. 
 
 To show his constant dependence for preserv- 
 ation and protection on the goodness of the Al- 
 mighty power, and prove that he ought to feel 
 his own insignificance in the scale of creation 
 more than any other man, I will only place him 
 on his own element in a little boat. Does he not 
 feel that his sole dependence for security is in 
 that frail bark ? But, if a breeze should spring 
 up or the clouds darken, he flies for refuge to 
 his ship, and soon forgets his dependence on the 
 boat, because she is so insignificant compared to 
 the ship. Now, let him compare himself to the 
 boat, then the boat to the ship, the ship to the 
 sea, the sea to the whole universe, and the whole 
 universe to the great Creator of all things; 
 
CROSS THE EQUATOR. V 
 
 then, I say, if he reflects at all, he will be as- 
 tounded, and bend in silent wonder to offer up 
 his heartfelt gratitude to that supreme Being, 
 who alone has so long watched over him, and 
 wonderfully preserved him in all the dangers 
 through which he has passed. 
 
 On the 14^/i of J/ay we lost the trade wind, and 
 experienced calm, sultry weather till the V^tli, 
 accompanied with those heavy rains, thunder, 
 and lightning, which are so common on nearing 
 the equator. Many flying fish came on board, 
 being pursued by the dolphin, albacore, &c. 
 These little fish have many enemies to contend 
 wdtli, and their wings being their only means of 
 escape, often lead them on board ships, when en- 
 deavouring to avoid their pursuers. 
 
 The light, variable winds continued till the 
 23o?, when we got the SE. trade, and found a 
 current setting us to the westward. On the 
 25M crossed the equator in longitude 27'' 30' W. 
 After dinner received our visit from the watery 
 god, accompanied by his numerous retinue of 
 
10 NEPTUNE'S VISIT. 
 
 nondescript amphibious animals; the usual cere- 
 mony of shaving was performed with all due 
 solemnity on those who had not before been in a 
 southern latitude; and it may be singular to re- 
 cord, that so great and interesting a traveller, as 
 my fi-iend. Captain Lyon, had never before 
 crossed the equator; he, therefore, came in for 
 his share of the delightful ablutions that were 
 most liberally bestowed on the occasion by the 
 grisly deity and his willing attendants. 
 
 On the 26^A, passed several large flocks of 
 birds, and numbers of the Portuguese Men- 
 of-war before mentioned. In the evening we 
 were nearly run on board by the George the 
 Fourth from Bah ia, bound to Trieste; so blind 
 was her look-out, that had we not luffed close up 
 in the wind, and hailed her to bear away, she 
 must have run us down. 
 
 About the latitude 36'^ S. experienced heavy 
 squalls of wind and rain. On the 6th of June saw 
 Cape Frio bearing W. by N. i N. forty miles: 
 ran all night with a fine NNE. breeze, and at 
 
ARRIVAL AT RIO JANEIRO. 11 
 
 daybreak next morning were off the entrance of 
 the harbour of Rio Janeiro. As the sun rose it 
 fell nearly calnij and the land breeze headed us ; 
 in the evening got the sea breeze, which carried 
 us in. Passing Fort Santa Cruz on the right, 
 they hailed us, and fired the alarm gun, accom- 
 panied by a rocket; we were soon abreast of 
 Forts St. Joao and Lage, where we were desired 
 to anchor, but on informing them it was his 
 Majesty's packet, we were allowed to proceed, 
 and cast anchor at ten p. m. off the town: thus 
 making the passage from Falmouth in forty-five 
 days. 
 
 June %tli. This morning had an opportunity 
 of seeing the beautiful scenery that surrounded 
 us — mountains beyond mountains in every direc- 
 tion. On our right was the town: the sun reflect- 
 ing its rays on the white houses, gave it a most 
 picturesque effect ; the noble bay stretched be- 
 fore us for many miles, till the view was bounded 
 by the lofty Organ Mountains, the summits of 
 which have a most peculiar and remarkable form- 
 
12 SCENERY OF RIO JANEIRO. 
 
 ation ; astern lay the entrance of the harbour, 
 strongly protected by Forts Santa Cruz, St. 
 Joao, and Lage. The lively and animated scene in 
 the bay, after forty-five days' monotony on board, 
 did not fail to give us all a desire to be among 
 the moving panorama which surrounded us. 
 
 On landing at the palace stairs, the first ob- 
 ject that presented itself to our view, was eight 
 poor negroes chained neck to neck, carrying 
 water on their heads, guarded by a black police- 
 man, with a sword for his emblem of office; thus 
 at once reminding us we were far removed from 
 the land of liberty. The slave population ap- 
 pears enormous here : I should say, at least ten 
 to one. Groupes of poor negroes passed us, sing- 
 ing their native songs to lighten their burdens, 
 which they carried on their heads, and always at 
 a trot : one first sings a verse, then all the rest 
 join chorus. These groupes consisting of from 
 ten to twenty, are continually passing and re- 
 passing, which keeps the town in one continued 
 noise and uproar. I never saw a place so 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE SLAVE-MARKET. 13 
 
 thickly populated in iny life : the town had the 
 complete appearance of a fair. Hearing that a 
 large cargo of slaves had recently been landed, 
 I went, in company with a friend, to the market, 
 where this horrid traffic in human cattle (for such 
 are they looked upon) is carried on to its great- 
 est extent. The first flesh-shop we entered 
 contained about three hundred children, male 
 and female; the eldest might have been twelve 
 or thirteen years old, and the youngest not 
 more than six or seven. The poor little things 
 were all squatted down in an immense ware- 
 room, girls on one side, and boys on the other, 
 for the better inspection of the purchasers ; all 
 their dress consisted of a blue-and-white checked 
 apron tied round the waist; and but for their 
 being separated, it was impossible to distinguish 
 boys from girls. It was a novel, but painful 
 sight to see so many children torn from their 
 homes and parents for such a purpose. Poor 
 things! they were chattering, laughing, and 
 playing with each other, as if perfectly 
 
14 DESCRIPTION OF THE SLAVE-MARKET. 
 
 happy. As long as they remained together, my 
 friend informed me, they were always so ; but 
 when they began to sell off, in proportion 
 as their numbers decreased, so their spirits fell, 
 till at last they became dull and sullen. No won- 
 der, poor wretches ! The smell and heat of the 
 room was very oppressive and offensive. Having 
 my pocket thermometer with me, I observed it 
 stood at 92^ It was then winter ; how they fare 
 at night in the summer, when they are shut up, 
 I do not know, for in this one room they live 
 and sleep, on the floor, like cattle in all re- 
 spects. In the next store there were about fifty 
 boys, of a different nation fi'om the chil- 
 dren : they were not in such good spirits as 
 the little ones, probably feeling the loss of their 
 companions, and not knowing why or wherefore 
 they had left them, or for what purpose they re- 
 mained behind ; some might have been separated 
 from their fathers, mothers, brothers, or sisters, 
 and gone, they knew not where. The next store 
 contained fewer still, about eighteen or twenty. 
 
nESCRIPTION OF THE SLAVE MARKET, &C. 15 
 
 most of them men, and four or five women; 
 these displayed misery in the extreme. Some were 
 sitting silent and sullen — others pensively await- 
 ing their doom like oxen at the slaughter, to go — 
 they knew not whither ! Lord B3Ton''s descrip- 
 tion of men awaiting their doom in his poem on 
 Darkness might here be truly applied. "^ Each 
 sat sullenly apart, some lay down and wept, 
 others hurried to and fro, and looked up with 
 mad disquietude, others rest their chins upon 
 their clenched hands and smiled.^' Yes, they 
 did smile ; but in that smile might be traced 
 agony and deep distress, plainly indicating the 
 misery that was working within. This scene of 
 horror created very painful feelings and asso- 
 ciations, which even the society of my fellow- 
 passengers, and the good dinner provided at 
 O'Brien's hotel, was some time in totally remov- 
 ing from my mind. 
 
 Saturday, June 9tk. This morning made up 
 a party to visit the botanical garden. Not being 
 a sufficient botanist to describe all I saw, I can 
 
16 VISIT TO THE BOTANICAL GARDEN. 
 
 only say that I was highly gratified with the 
 beautiful romantic ride of six miles, and pleased 
 with all that was novel to me. Here I first saw 
 the tea-plant. The garden was far from being in 
 good order, and very inferior to the one at the 
 Isle of France. The bread-fruit tree appeared in 
 great perfection. 
 
 Returning to town, I met Commodore Taylor 
 of the Brazilian navy, whom I formerly knew at 
 the Cape of Good Hope, as lieutenant of His 
 Majesty's ship Blossom ; he very kindly invited 
 me to spend the day with him, which I was 
 obliged to decline on account of our time for 
 sailing being fixed for the following morning. His 
 left bosom was covered with different orders re- 
 ceived from the emperor; but they could not dis- 
 guise the feelings of his heart, which still yearned 
 for his native land. 
 
 Captain Lyon here left us, much to my regret; 
 for in him I found a sincere friend and most in- 
 teresting companion. 
 
 JunelOth. We sailed for Monte Video. Find- 
 
PAMPERO. 17 
 
 ing the blockade still remained in force, it may 
 naturally be supposed that we were all anxiety 
 as to how we should be able to get to Buenos 
 Ayres. 
 
 On making an offing, we got a fine steady 
 breeze from the NNE. On the \2th, the stormy 
 peterels, or cape pigeons, came screaming close 
 to the ship ; this circumstance is looked upon by 
 the sailors as the sure indication of an approach- 
 ing storm : several were caught with a hook and 
 line^ — they are not eatable, being very strong 
 and oily. In the evening clouds began to rise, 
 and lightning was observed playing about the 
 horizon in the SW. Sail was immediately 
 shortened, and every preparation made for what 
 now appeared pretty evident was coming. The 
 lightning increased vividly, with heavy claps of 
 thunder, which brought down ton'ents of rain, and 
 it came on to blow a heavy pampero, that lay us 
 under our close-reefed topsails, lowered down on 
 the cap for nearly an hour, it then settled into a 
 gale, with a heavy cross sea running, (occasioned 
 
 c 
 
18 ARRIVAL AT MONTE VIDEO. 
 
 by the sudden shift of wind,) which continued 
 till the \bthf ending in a strong breeze from the 
 SSE. Let sailors take warning in these lati- 
 tudes during this season of the year ; however 
 fine the weather, when lightning is seen playing 
 in the S W. they will do well to make all possible 
 preparation for an approaching pampero. When 
 we got this wind, the thermometer instantly fell 
 from 78" to GT**. I regretted much there being 
 no barometer on board to have observed its 
 variation; our constitutions being susceptible, 
 we sensibly felt the sudden transition. 
 
 From this time till the 21^^, we had light SW. 
 winds, with cold weather, thermometer down to 
 50", on which day we made the Cape St. Maiy's, 
 and on the ^^nd arrived at Monte Video. 
 
 At this place all the passengers were landed, 
 and the captain sent a letter to the Brazilian 
 admiral, craving permission for us to be allowed 
 to proceed to Buenos Ayres in the packet, 
 which was refused. The absurdity of passengers 
 not being allowed to go up by the packets is 
 
PREPARING TO START. 19 
 
 scarcely credible, for it is well known they go by 
 land, and have to encounter the dangers of a 
 distracted country, where many robberies are 
 committed by the Gauchos, and deserters fre- 
 quently to be met with. Passports are to be pro- 
 cured to carry you through the Brazilian line ; 
 then nothing further is required, but to make the 
 best of your way. Wishing myself to avoid such 
 a disagreeable journey, I had laid my plans to 
 endeavour to get on board the packet when dark 
 came on; so when that time arrived I crept 
 silently along to the sea-side, passing the cen- 
 tinels very well till I came to the mole-head, and 
 was just on the point of stepping into the boat, 
 when one of them perceiving ray intentions, 
 frustrated all my plans, and it was with great 
 difficulty I evaded being sent to the guard-house. 
 Thus was my object defeated : two minutes sooner 
 would have saved me the very unpleasant jour- 
 ney I went through. 
 
 June 23rd. Employed ourselves preparing to 
 
 c'2 
 
20 
 
 PREPARING TO START. 
 
 start, and purchasing ponchos,* xergas,-]- saddles, 
 &c. O ur luggage was left on board to go up by the 
 packet. Finding horses were not to be procured, 
 we hired a mule-cart to carry ourselves and sad- 
 dles to the tow^n of Canelones, a distance of ten 
 leagues. The reports we heard of the state of 
 the country, induced some of our passengers to 
 remain behind and wait the result of Garcia's 
 treaty ; but five of us being anxious to get to 
 Buenos Ayres, decided upon starting the fol- 
 lowing morning, so accordingly procured our 
 passports from the commandant of the town, in 
 order to clear us of the Brazilian line of troops. 
 Our plea for going beyond it was, to visit an 
 English gentleman that lived a short distance in 
 the country ; but the commandant well knew our 
 object, and most politely wished us a pleasant 
 journey. 
 
 * A kind of cloak used for riding by day, and answers the 
 purpose of a covering' at night : it may be compared to a 
 blanket with a split in the centre to put the head through. 
 
 t A kind of rug for putting under the saddle, and laying 
 upon at night. 
 
21 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Leave Monte Video — Reports of the state of the Banda 
 Oriental — Brazilian Out-posts — Patriot Out-posts — Wild 
 appearance of the Troops — Arrive at Canelones — Depar- 
 ture — Guide's fear of Robbers — Get benighted, and lose 
 our way — JMethod of marking Horses — Deserters about — 
 Arrive at Las Vacas — Embark in an open whale-boat to 
 cross Rio de la Plata — Driven on the Sand-banks — Arrive 
 at Buenos Ayres — Prepare for crossing the Pampas. 
 
 June 2^th. Left Monte Video in our mule- 
 cart. On passing the barriers of the town, came 
 to the deserted village of Tres Cruces, which is 
 fast falling to decay, having still many good 
 houses unoccupied, the war preventing any 
 person inhabiting them ; passing this village, we 
 opened a fine meadow comitry, but very wild in 
 appearance for want of cultivation. As we 
 cleared it, we met some wild Gauchos driving 
 in about three hundred head of cattle, which 
 
22 BRAZILIAN OUT-POSTS. 
 
 they had just stolen, or as they more mildly 
 termed it, captured from the interior. 
 
 At about a league from Monte Video are the 
 Brazilian out-posts, where we delivered our pass- 
 ports. The troops were all black. As we came 
 up to them, about fifty were marching off to 
 their different stations with a band at their head, 
 playing the Hunting Chorus of Der Freitchutz. 
 
 Proceeding on, and arriving at the top of the 
 first rise of ground, we got sight of the Patriot 
 line of troops, (if troops they may be called,) and 
 very soon came up to them ; on ascertaining our 
 purpose, they allowed us to proceed, but gave us 
 by no means a pleasant account of the difficul- 
 ties we might expect to encounter. Certainly 
 these men had a most terrific and wild appearance : 
 they were all mounted on half wild horses, no 
 shoes or stockings, with tremendous large spurs 
 fastened to their naked heels by strips of hide : 
 their long black hair hung down their backs, 
 huge black mustachios, red caps, and blue 
 pouches lined with red, underneath which, as 
 
PATRIOT OUT-POSTS. 23 
 
 they galloped to and fro, appeared a brace of 
 pistols in front, and a large long knife stuck 
 behind ; added to all this, they carried a sabre 
 and blunderbuss : those that had not the latter, 
 had old muskets, fowling-pieces, &c. Upon the 
 whole, they had much more the appearance of an 
 armed banditti, than patriots fighting for the 
 liberties of their country. 
 
 About a mile from this post came to a hut, 
 where we ascertained more fully the state of the 
 country. Many robberies had been committed by 
 the deserters from both armies, (armed parties I 
 should call them.) The Banda Orientalists were in 
 arms against the treaty of Garcia* being acceded 
 to, which was, to give up the Banda Oriental 
 to the Brazilians. Tliis they were determined to 
 oppose, and were highly incensed against the 
 English, whom they supposed were interested in 
 the treaty. The deserters were numerous, rob- 
 bing and murdering in every direction : such 
 
 * The Brazilian minister who went up to Buenos Ayres in 
 order to effect such a treaty. 
 
24 STATE OF THE BANDA ORIENTAL. 
 
 were the reports we heard of the state of the 
 country we should have to pass through, and 
 which were soon more fully confirmed by our 
 meeting the English gentleman before mentioned,, 
 who advised us not to proceed further, but send 
 our muleteer forward, to endeavour to procure 
 horses, as it would be better to trust to them in 
 the event of falling in with any deserters, than to 
 be in the mule-cart. 
 
 On finding things in this state, one of our 
 party, not having the same necessity for pro- 
 ceeding as the rest of us, declined going further, 
 so returned to Monte Video, in company with 
 this gentleman, leaving us now reduced to four, 
 three Englishmen and one Spaniard. 
 
 We travelled on, passing through a fine mea- 
 dow country, abounding in wild ostriches and 
 deer, with some few flocks of cattle grazing far 
 away from their Estancias. Vultures were very 
 numerous : one sat perched on the back of an 
 unfortunate horse, absolutely eating the live 
 flesh : this is a frequent occurrence, when they 
 
ARRIVAL AT CANELONES. 
 
 25 
 
 have sore backs. At sunset, arrived at Caiielo- 
 lies, without meeting any obstruction, where we 
 stopped for the night, and had most miserable 
 dirty beds, (swarming with fleas,) laid on a 
 catre. * 
 
 Canelones is principally inhabited by emi- 
 grants from Monte Video: all the men ca- 
 pable of bearing arms form a militia, con- 
 tinually on the alert for the protection of the 
 place. We were detained for passports till 
 past noon of the next day, the 25^/^, when we 
 procured horses, and a little guide, only five 
 years old, to take us to St. Lucia, a miserable 
 village, situated on the banks of the river from 
 which it takes its name. This child rode on a 
 very fine horse, and sang the native song of the 
 Banda Oriental, the whole way (three leagues.) 
 All I could make out was, " Stand to your arms, 
 brave Orientals ; the enemy are coming — fight, 
 and be bold.'' We crossed the river in a 
 boat, and had to wait on the opposite shore up- 
 * A wooden frame, with a hide stretched across it. 
 
26 
 
 THE BANDA ORIENTAL. 
 
 wards of two hours for horses. When they ar- 
 rived, the guide made great objection to proceed, 
 as it was then late, and the post seven leagues ; 
 however, by dint of coaxing and bribery, we got 
 him on, but he was much afraid of robbers. 
 Night overtook us ; and we had to wade through 
 a deep river, or rather arroyo,* situated in a 
 dark, dreary wood : we lost our way in it for 
 some considerable time, wading up to the horses' 
 middles in swampy ground, filled with rushes. 
 At length, about nine P.M., we arrived at the post 
 of St. Joze, situated on the skirts of the village of 
 the same name. At this hovel, swarming with 
 fleas, we got some boiled beef, without bread or 
 salt, all eating out of the same dish, with shells 
 for spoons, and our fingers and teeth for knives 
 and forks. Beds we had none, our saddles 
 were our pillows, and the horse rugs our cover- 
 ings. We all lay on the mud floor in the same 
 room with the family, which consisted of the 
 man, his wife, and four children : the latter were 
 * A rivulet. 
 
MARKING HORSES. 27 
 
 occupied in picking the disgusting insects ofl" 
 each other. We did not escape, without adding 
 to the stock we had already picked up at Can- 
 elones. 
 
 Tuesday, 2^th. Got tolerable horses, and 
 started at nine, passing through the same fine 
 meadow counby, abounding in wild deer, os- 
 triches, hawks, and vultures. Not a habitation 
 was to be seen, till we arrived at the post of 
 Cufre, a distance of twenty-one miles, where we 
 procured fresh horses, the country having the 
 same appearance. Passed a cross, erected to 
 commemorate the spot where an unfortunate 
 traveller had been murdered; arrived at Ro- 
 sario, twenty-one miles, where they were mark- 
 ing their horses ; and it was truly astonishing to 
 see with what dexterity they used the lasso, 
 which is a hide rope, to the end of which is a 
 ring; thus forming a long noose, they whirl it 
 round their heads several times before throwing, 
 and rarely miss catching any horse they please. 
 The marking of tlie young and wild horses forms 
 
28 HEAR OF A DESERTER. 
 
 quite a ceremony in South America ; the same 
 as our sheep-shearing in England. They are all 
 driven into the corral, which is generally re- 
 paired for the purpose. On the entrance being 
 guarded by two peons, several enter with their 
 lassoes, which they keep whirling round their 
 heads to frighten the animals, and make them 
 gallop round; (for they never throw while ahorse 
 is still;) and while the animal is at full speed, 
 they throw at the fore legs, which instantly 
 brings him to the ground, head over heels, with 
 amazing force. Without giving him time to rise, 
 a peon jumps upon his neck, holds him fast by 
 the ears, while another applies the red hot iron 
 to the affrighted animal, which is then released. 
 We were detained about half an hour for fi-esh 
 horses, during which time they marked upwards 
 of twenty. On our road from this place to 
 Sauces, the guide informed us there was a de- 
 serter about, looking out for travellers. We 
 arrived at sunset, making sixty-six miles this 
 day. 
 
FLOCK OF PAROQUETS. 29 
 
 A soldier came to this post, a very suspicious 
 looking character, and eyed us most minutely, 
 but seeing that we were priming and preparing 
 our pistols for the night, he became very friendly, 
 and we all slept in the same room together — six 
 men and three women. We could neither get 
 bread nor salt at this place, and were swarming 
 with vermin. 
 
 Wednesday, 2Qitk. After taking a piece of 
 beef for breakfast, without bread or salt, we 
 procured horses and started : changed at St. 
 Juan, seven leagues, and Tunas, eight leagues; 
 where we had some good bread and milk. This 
 was a good house ; the ground near it was culti- 
 vated, and large flocks of cattle were grazing on 
 the beautiful meadows. An immense flock of 
 paroquets here flew over our heads — the discor- 
 dant noise they make is far from being pleasant. 
 From this place the country assumes a more 
 cheerful appearance : passing the remains of the 
 Portuguese camp, which had all the appearance 
 of numerous pig-styes, we came to another cross. 
 
30' ARRIVAL AT LAS VACAS. 
 
 erected on the spot where robbery and murder 
 had been committed ; and in the evening, ar- 
 rived at the village of Las Vacas, making sixty- 
 three miles. It is situated on the banks of a 
 small river, (from whence it takes its name,) that 
 runs into the Uruguay, both emptying them- 
 selves into the La Plata. 
 
 At this miserable place we could not find any 
 accommodation with respect to beds ; but were 
 fortunate enough to procure an empty room 
 for ourselves, where we lay on the nmd and 
 dirty floor, on our filthy horse rugs, that were 
 now, from the sore backs, and perspiration of 
 the horses, literally swarming with vermin. 
 The Spanish gentleman that accompanied us was 
 absolutely unable to move, from the effects of 
 such hard riding ; and just coming from on board 
 ship, we naturally felt it the more. Each stage 
 of seven leagues was performed within an hour 
 and three quarters. The guides are beautiful 
 horsemen: instantly they mount, they cry "^^Va- 
 mos senores !" and start off at full speed ; no- 
 
EMBARK IN AN OPEN WHALE BOAT. 31 
 
 tiling stops them — through mud, water, brooks, 
 and every thing — you must follow, or be left 
 behind. 
 
 At Las Vacas we were detained till the 30^/i, 
 with a provoking foul wind, which set in strong 
 during the day, but went down at night. We 
 made two attempts to get out in a balandra,* 
 which we hired for the purpose, but could not 
 get the boatmen to try at night, being afraid to go 
 down to the vessel which lay at the mouth of the 
 harbour, for fear of being attacked by tigers, 
 which we heard were very numerous. Fortu- 
 nately, a whale-boat arrived from Buenos Ayres, 
 so we left our balandra, forfeiting half freight, 
 and engaging her, embarked in this open whale- 
 boat about sunset on the 30^//. 
 
 On clearing the harbour, we pulled up along 
 shore for fifteen miles, and arrived on board a 
 Spanish gun-boat, laying off Martin Garcia : it 
 was very dark, with drizzling rain. In hopes of 
 its clearing up, we landed in a small creek, and 
 * A small vessel. 
 
32 DRIVEN ON THE SAND BANKS. 
 
 made a fire in order to cook a piece of beef for 
 supper. This scene was very wild : the boat lay 
 sheltered in the creek, among very tall rushes; 
 we had a blazing fire in the wood, and were all 
 squatted round it, alternately watching the beef 
 stuck in the midst of the flames and smoke, and 
 the weather, which appeared by no means to look 
 favourable. The wind began to rise, but conti- 
 nued fair; heavy rain came on, and we put on 
 board the gun-boat again to procure a gun- 
 match, in order to look at our compass; for we 
 dared not carry a light, fearing we might be seen 
 by the privateers that are constantly hovering 
 about the place. 
 
 On calculating the time of tide, at three in the 
 morning we started, and stood across for the 
 banks to keep out of their way; the wind and 
 rain increased, and we had not advanced many 
 miles before the boat struck several times on these 
 dangerous banks; at length, by press of sail we 
 got her over. I sat with the compass between 
 my knees, anxiously watching our progress ; it 
 
NO APPEARANCE OF LAND. 33 
 
 came on to blow half a gale of wind; she shipped 
 so much water tliat it kept us constantly baling. 
 Never shall I forget how anxiously we all looked 
 for daylight^ for we scarcely knew where the 
 tide had swept us. At length it dawned upon ten 
 as uncomfortable beings as can well be imagined ; 
 miserable and wet through to the skin, cramped 
 up in an open boat, out of sight of land, without 
 knowing where we had drifted, blowing already 
 half a gale, with every appearance of its increas- 
 ing to a severe one ; it was half past eight, and 
 no appearance of land. Almost despairing, we 
 were going to bear away, when, to our great joy, 
 we perceived the ships laying in the outer roads, 
 and soon after saw the town of Buenos Ayres. 
 On going in we were fired at, and brought to, 
 by one of Admiral Brown's guard-vessels, and 
 landed at Buenos Ayres about ten. No per- 
 son can imagine with what a sensation of joy 
 1 stripped myself of my filthy clothes, which had 
 not been off my back for eight days, and literally 
 
 n 
 
J4 ARRIVE AT BUENOS AVRES. 
 
 swarming with vermin the whole time. After the 
 luxury of a warm bath, I enjoyed an excellent 
 breakfast at Faimch's Hotel, where I found my 
 luggage had been landed from tlie packet, and 
 also that Garcia's treaty had been re;jected with 
 indignation — war appeared to be the order of 
 the day. Norton, the commander of the Brazilian 
 squadron, was laying outside, blockading the 
 port; what prevented him sending in his boats 
 during the night and destroying Admiral Brown's 
 little squadron, I do not know. American ves- 
 sels were w^eekly running past him, breaking the 
 blockade, and making fortunes for their owners, 
 while scarce an English one made the attempt; 
 the consequence was, their stores were empty 
 and nothing doing. Paper money was falling to 
 a mere nothing, sixty-four paper dollars to the 
 doubloon, and daily expected to be lower; how 
 war was to be continued and supported with 
 such want of confidence in the government credit 
 will not be for me to enter into. Politics is not 
 
PREPARE TO CROSS THE PAMPAS. 35 
 
 tlie object of this Journal; suffice it to say, that 
 I only looked on at the progressive ruin before 
 me, sighed for the blessings of old England, and 
 commenced preparations for iny journey across 
 the vast and dreary Pampas. 
 
 I) 2 
 
36 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 
 Leave Buenos Ayres — First night on the Pampas — Description 
 of a Post House — Posts protected against the Indians — 
 Description of a Gaucho and his family — Fire on the 
 Pampas — Beautiful driving of the Peons — Family of In- 
 dians — Hunting Deer and Ostriches — Cruelty of the 
 Gauchos to their Horses — Hear of Robbers — View of the 
 Hills of the Sierra de Cordova — Arrive at Punta de Agua. 
 
 July 2^th. — Having arranged with two Spa- 
 nish gentlemen to take seats in a carriage whicli 
 they had purchased for the purpose of going to 
 Mendoza, my companion and \, as we had each 
 a load, had no further trouble than to send our 
 luggage up for the cargo horses. About one 
 o'clock we took our seats and started with four 
 horses to the carriage, each mounted by a Peon, 
 whose tremendous long spurs made me feel for 
 the fate of the poor animals on which they rode; 
 
LExVVE BUENOS AIRES. 
 
 37 
 
 the method of harnessing the horses in this 
 country is, by a long piece of hide rope^ with a 
 toggle at the end of it, which is put through a 
 ring attached to the saddle, so that the horse 
 draws entirely on one side and by the girth, 
 but has the convenience of being let go at a 
 moment's notice should he become restive and 
 unmanageable, which is frequently the case. As 
 it was not our intention to go more than seven 
 leagues this day, we did not huiTy, nor indeed 
 coiild we, for the roads were so dreadfully bad 
 on leaving Buenos Ayres, that it was impossible 
 to go faster than a walk, and the Pantanos being 
 so swollen by the late heavy rains, were, in many 
 places, far above the horses knees ; this infamous 
 road continued for about a league, lined on each 
 side with aloes and huge prickly pear-trees. On 
 clearing this bad road, the wild Pampas soon 
 opens, covered with thistles as far as the eye can 
 range, amongst which herds of cattle are grazing, 
 near to the Estancias; some of which have the 
 appearance of English farm-houses, having a few 
 
38 ilRST NIGHT ON THE PAMPAS. 
 
 trees surrounding tlieui. The cultivated spots 
 show the beautiful soil with which this country 
 abounds. At four leagues from Buenos Ayres, ar- 
 rived at the first post, La Figura^,* where we 
 changed horses, and, proceeding on, arrived at 
 Puente de Marques at sunset, (three leagues fur- 
 ther); at this post we put up for the night. A 
 boy was dispatched for a sheep for our supper; 
 to my astonishment I saw him returning full gal- 
 lop, with the poor animal trailing on the ground, 
 fastened by the hind legs : its struggles lasted 
 but a little time, for, on arriving, life was extinct; 
 being literally strangled with dragging along 
 the ground. Without attempting to bleed it, 
 the head was cut oft'; in five minutes it v.as 
 skinned, and, I may say, smoking with life, put 
 into the pot for supper. Tliis I learnt was always 
 the -case, but never having witnessed a thing of 
 the kind before, I need scarcely add, that it took 
 away all my inclination to eat any part of it. Our 
 
 "^ La Figura is not a regular post-house, \vliich I found out 
 on my return. Puente de Marques is the first. 
 
DESCRIPTtOK OF A IH),ST-HOlJSi:. 39 
 
 Spanish companions appeared to feel themselves 
 perfectly at home, and enjoyed it very much, 
 quite in the style of the native Gauchos, taking a 
 bone, and using nothing but their teeth and 
 knives ; they proved to be brothers, and here 
 we found our j^arty increased by a friend of 
 theirs on horseback, who was going to Mendoza, 
 and intended to keej) company with us all the 
 way. The post-room we slept in was tolerable, 
 having a door to it, which is seldom to be met 
 with beyond the province of Buenos Ayres, and 
 which, when the reality of their dreary situation 
 is looked into, is not to be wondered at ; in fact, 
 it is more astonishing how or where they can get 
 the wood to build even the miserable hovels they 
 inhabit, when it is taken into consideration that 
 some of them are as far removed as three hun- 
 dred miles from any thing like a tree; nothing 
 but a wild plain covered with thistles and brush- 
 wood. As a description of this post will serve 
 for the two provinces of Buenos Ayres and 
 Santa Fe, I will give it. It does not require 
 
40 MATE, OR PARAGUAY TEA. 
 
 umch detail — all tlie furniture consists of an old 
 table and two crazy chairs with very high backs, 
 which generally are dangerous to sit down upon; 
 the walls are mud, without any aperture to ad- 
 mit the light, excepting the holes in the frail 
 roof of cane or rushes, and a rent here and 
 there stuffed up with sheeps' skins, old rags, &c. 
 two mud benches, and sometimes, but not often, 
 two catres or frames, with a hide stretched across 
 to sleep upon, forms the sum total of their ac- 
 commodation ; this one had been clean swept 
 out, and we were not much troubled with vermin. 
 On the i^5tli we arose betimes, and took our 
 mate or Paraguay tea, which is much esteemed 
 in this country; it is by no means disagreeable; 
 the only part I disliked about it, was sucking 
 from the same tube as my companions, who were 
 not very nice as to cleanliness. It is made by 
 putting the herb in a small gourd, containing 
 about half a pint of water, sugar is added, and 
 then drank by sucking through a silver tul)e, 
 which is passed from one to another without 
 
CAUCHOS GAMBLING. 41 
 
 ceremony. On starting, the vast Pampas lay 
 stretching before us like a smooth sea, with 
 nothing to obstruct the view. After crossing the 
 Puente de Marques, we changed horses at the 
 Canada de Escobar, six leagues, and soon after 
 arrived at the town of Luxan, three leagues 
 further, where we had breakfast at the Fonda or 
 Inn. It was full of Gauchos, all engaged in their 
 evil propensity of gambling. In one room was a 
 billiard-table, where about half a dozen were bet- 
 ting : in the corner of the room we were in, was a 
 card-table, thronged with betters, whose deposits 
 were on the table ; their eager countenances 
 plainly showed the anxiety of mind for the fate 
 of what they had just laid down. I was glad to 
 get away from this scene of uproar, for their 
 irritable dispositions often lead to unpleasant 
 consequences, on the slightest provocation hav- 
 ing immediate recourse to their knives ; so much 
 so, that any Gaucho found in the town of Bue- 
 nos Ay res with his knife about his person, is 
 subject to a heavy penalty, and imprisonment. 
 
42 DESCRIPTION OF A GAUCHO'S FAMILY. 
 
 We completed twenty-two leagues this day, and 
 slept at the post of La Cruz. 
 
 26^/i. Was a bitter cold morning, thermome- 
 ter at 34% with the well-known pampero or SW. 
 wind blowing ; at twelve leagues from this post, 
 after crossing the river Arricife, we arrived at 
 the post of the same name ; there is a deep en- 
 trenchment dug round it, and a wall of mud, 
 six feet high, as a protection against the incur- 
 sions of the Indians : the owner was the stoutest 
 man J ever saw in my life, a complete merry 
 John Bull ; he possesses much land and cattle, 
 and is very rich. Passing through the same 
 dreary flat country, leaving the village of Arri- 
 cife on the left, which consists of eighteen or 
 twenty mud huts, we changed horses at Ponte- 
 zeulas, six leagues, and arrived at Las Manan- 
 tiales, or the Springs, five leagues, where, not 
 being able to get a further relay of horses, (being- 
 sunset,) we were obliged to remain for the night. 
 This is not a regular post-house,'^ but our laugli- 
 
 * Nut luiviiig a post-room. 
 
FIRE ON THE PAMPAS. 43 
 
 iiig host, who was a fat, jolly, good-natured man, 
 did every thing to make his miserable abode as 
 comfortable to us as possible. These people have 
 many amiable qualities — that of urbanity of man- 
 ners in particular : I wish I could say that my 
 own countrymen possessed half their politeness ; 
 give way a little to their humour, and they may 
 be made any thing of This poor man, humbly 
 and miserably as he was situated, living with 
 his wife and two daughters, in a perfect desert, 
 gave up the only room he had for our service ; 
 and when he sat down to eat with us, did not 
 touch his meat without first crossing himself, 
 and breathing a prayer of thanks to his Maker. 
 While we were at our supper inside, we had a 
 noble view without : the thistles had been set on 
 fire to clear the land, and for miles was it to be 
 seen blazing and marching majestically along 
 the horizon, a wilderness of fire. Our Peons 
 had also two blazing fires, which they were as- 
 sembled close round, cooking their suppers ; not 
 a breath of wind moved over the quiet scene. 
 
44 BEAUTIFCIL DRIVING OF THE PEONS. 
 
 wliicli only tended to add melancholy to its 
 dreariness. We all slept on the mud floor in our 
 host's small room, which did not appear to in- 
 commode either himself or his family, for his 
 wife and daughters came and undressed just as 
 if no person had been there. Shortly after, be- 
 tween talking and laughing, we heard them at 
 their prayers, stopping now and then to chat in 
 the middle of them. I could not but think of the 
 good qualities which were evidently innate in 
 this family, and what tliey might be brought to 
 with a little cultivation and education. 
 
 Friday 21th. Frosty morning, we left our 
 good-natured host very early, travelling over the 
 same dreary pampas, our road here and there 
 nuich cut up by the biscacho holes, which are 
 made by a small animal of the same name, and 
 are dangerous to the horses. It is truly beauti- 
 ful, at the amazing rate the peons drive, to see 
 with what dexterity they avoid tliem. After 
 travelling nine leagues, arrived at tlie Arroyo 
 del Medio, whicli separates the province of Bue- 
 
PASS A FAMILY OT INDIANS. 
 
 45 
 
 nos Ayres from Santa Fe. This stream was so 
 much swollen that we were obliged to put every 
 thing inside the carriage, and cross over on 
 horseback. On the opposite bank we fell in with 
 a family of Indians, whose countenances showed 
 them to be a distinct race of beings from the 
 natives of the province we had just travelled 
 through, although in the provinces of Santa Fe 
 and Cordova, it was very conspicuous how 
 many families were mixed with the Indian race, 
 bearing that dull and inanimate countenance, 
 with coarse black hair, so much resembling the 
 Indians of North America, and so very dissi- 
 milar to the fine noble countenances of the 
 Spanish Americans. After changing horses at 
 the posts of Arroyo del Pavon, and Cerrillo 
 del Rosario, we arrived at the banks of a river, 
 where we were again obliged to put every thing- 
 inside the carriage, crossing over on the horses, 
 with the water above their chests. Although we 
 had five horses to the carriage, it stuck in the 
 middle, and I had my doubts of their being able 
 
46 PASS A FAMILY OF INDIANS. 
 
 to drag it through the deep mud, but after adjust- 
 ing their saddles, breathing the horses, and mount- 
 ing again, the peons made a tremendous noise, 
 and applying their unmerciful long spurs, it was 
 astonishing to see what a steep bank it was 
 dragged up ; it was dark when we arrived at 
 the post of Salladillo 6 Manantiales, or Salt 
 Springs, where we passed the night, the post 
 being tolerably good. As I intend inserting 
 my thermometrical observations in a table here- 
 after, I shall merely mention that it was gene- 
 rally a frosty night and morning, with bitter 
 cold wind, but in the middle of the day the ther- 
 mometer would rise as high as 60° and 65° in the 
 shade, and 80° to 84' in the sun, which rendered 
 the constitution extremely susceptible to such 
 great extremes. 
 
 Saturday *2^th. Beautiful frosty morning ; 
 started as the sun rose over the same vast and 
 dreary plain which showed neither house, tree, 
 nor shrub — nothing to obstruct the view. Iroiu 
 ranging round the horizon of desolation. 
 
HUNTING DEER AND OSTRICHES. 47 
 
 As we travelled full speed over this barren 
 country, we were continually starting the af- 
 frighted deer, that would fly from us like the 
 wind. It was my custom to ride on horseback 
 ten or twelve leagues every morning. 1 some- 
 times amused myself hunting these beautiful 
 animals, and found, after a long chace, I could 
 generally come up with them. Not so with the 
 ostriches ; they would march away with the greatest 
 apparent ease from a horse at full speed : they 
 were not numerous, I onlv saw two during the 
 whole journey across the Pampas. This day *' 
 we travelled with amazing speed, and I could 
 not but feel for the poor cargo-horses, that car- 
 ried two heavy portmanteaus, and a bed each, 
 keeping up with the carriage at full gallop. They 
 lace the loads on as if the horses were made of 
 iron : frequently have I seen two men with their 
 feet against the horses^ sides, drawing the rope 
 of hide till it has literally been hid in its belly, 
 and the poor animal would stand and cough with 
 pain ; they then fasten one horse to the other's 
 
48 CRUELTY TO flORSES AND CATTLE. 
 
 tail, one peon leads the foremost, while another 
 rides behind with a long hide whip, which is 
 incessantly applied without mercy. Cruelty to 
 these noble animals is certainly the worst trait 
 in these people's characters ; ^ the first horse that 
 carried the luggage fi^om Buenos Ayres, drop- 
 ped instantly the load was taken off its back, 
 and no doubt never rose again, for it then ap- 
 peared to be breathing its last. Many carcases 
 strewed the road, laying just where they had 
 died, some of them with the straw luggage 
 saddle still on their backs. 
 
 After travelling twenty-four leagues, arrived 
 at the village of La Cruz Alta, which separates 
 the province of Santa Fh from Cordova. This 
 village consists of ten or twelve mud huts, en- 
 trenched, and some of them surrounded with mud 
 walls, as a defence against the Indians ; indeed 
 
 '^ If a native is travelling the Pampas, and a had iiorse 
 should be given to him, when he arrives at the end of the post, 
 lie will take out his knife and cut off one of its ears without 
 any ceromonv. 
 
POST OF SALADILLO. 49 
 
 all the posts in the provinces of Santa Fe and 
 Cordova^ are eitlier protected by mud walls or 
 entrenchments^ so open and exposed are they 
 to the attacks of these southern savages : leaving 
 La Cruz Alta, we passed along in sight of the 
 Rio Saladillo,* whose banks are almost perpen- 
 dicular, and lined with a few trees. At sunset 
 we arrived at Lobaton, making ninety-nine miles 
 this day. 
 
 Sunday 2^th. Started at eight : at four leagues 
 distance, came to the Rio Saladillo, which, 
 after crossing, we arrived at the post and village 
 of the same name, consisting of ten or twelve 
 huts entrenched. Here was stationed a guard 
 and commandant against the incursions of the 
 Indians, and having produced our passports, we 
 changed horses at Barrancas, and fell in with 
 twelve waggons of the country proceeding to 
 Buenos Ayres. These machines are made of 
 
 * I believe this is Rio Tercero, or third river, but 1 cannot 
 speak with certainty. 
 
 E 
 
50 WAGGONS OF THE COUNTRY. 
 
 bamboo, the tops covered with liicle ; tliey are 
 mounted on two immense wheels, about ten or 
 eleven feet in diameter, which are never greased, 
 so that when you are close to them, their squeak- 
 ing and creaking is almost sufficient to stun one. 
 They are drawn by four oxen that are a consi- 
 derable distance from their work, the foremost pair 
 being twenty feet from the wheel pair ; the driver 
 sits between the heads of the wheel pair, which 
 are lashed by the horns to a cross piece of wood 
 attached to the shaft : a long pole leads out from 
 the waggon, armed with iron spikes, with which 
 he goads any beast he pleases, and you seldom 
 see them without the blood running down their 
 sides ; independent of this, he carries a heavy 
 block of wood to strike them over the horns^ 
 and not unfrequently will they break a horn off 
 the wretched animal's head. 
 
 We soon came to the village of Frayle Mu- 
 erto, or Dead Friar, where the Gauchos were 
 horse-racing, which, in general, is their Sunday's 
 amusement. They were gaily dressed for the 
 
GAUCHOS HORSE-RACING. 51 
 
 occasion, in their clashing ponchos of various 
 colours. Most of these people, wretched and 
 dirty as they live, sport their silver spurs and 
 stirrups; their races are very short, and they 
 always ride without saddles. 
 
 Passing along in sight of the Rio Tercero,* 
 we soon arrived at the post of Esquina de Me- 
 drano, situated very pleasantly on its banks, 
 and the best we had hitherto come to. The river 
 runs close to it^ wide and deep, with very steep 
 banks lined with trees, which, after travelling 
 through a vast plain of one hundred and thirty 
 leagues, with nothing to rest the eye upon, had 
 a most cheering appearance. Here further de- 
 fence against the incursions of the Indians ap- 
 peared to have ceased. The next post being 
 eight leagues, and a bad road, we put up at this 
 one for the night, and had a good supper, and 
 clean room to sleep in. 
 
 Monday dOtk. Started at eight, with a relay 
 
 * This, I tliiiik, is tlie same river, and sometimes called 
 Saladillo . 
 
 E 2 
 
52 
 
 REPORT OF THE ROBBERS. 
 
 of horses for the carriage. The first four leagues 
 lay througli brush-wood, and a bad road ; the se- 
 cond four leagues was dreary pampas. Got fresh 
 horses at Arroyo de St. Joze^ a very good post, 
 which took us to Canada de Lucas, a wretched 
 bad one. On leaving this place, one of our 
 horses fell into a Biscacho hole, and rolled him- 
 self and rider completely under the carriage be- 
 tween the two fore-wheels. Astonishing as it may 
 appear, although at full gallop, the other peons 
 pulled up so suddenly, that neither man nor horse 
 were injured. At a distance of three leagues, 
 we changed horses at a hut on the left, where 
 v/e were informed that robbers had been seen 
 in the wood which we should soon have to pass 
 through on our road to La Punta de Agua; 
 we therefore prepared our pistols, and soon 
 arrived at it, but met with no obstruction. In 
 some parts of this wood we were obliged to 
 close the carriage-shutters for fear of being 
 scratched inside, the bushes were so thick; about 
 the middle of it there was a very bad swamp. 
 
PASS THROUGH A WOOD. 53 
 
 which we had a heavy drag to get through. 
 Immediately on clearing it, the hills of the Sierra 
 de Cordova broke upon our view, the first we 
 had seen since leaving Buenos Ayres : as the 
 sun set upon them, we could just perceive their 
 tops were covered with snow. Passing a neat 
 little chapel, " Capella del Rosaria," we ar- 
 rived at the post of Punta de Agua at sunset, 
 making only nineteen leagues. 
 
54 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Carriage Upset — Dexterity of the Peons — Cross a River — 
 Storm on the Pampas — Indian Chief and Two Captives 
 an-ive — Pampas Music — Arrive at San Luis — Rio Desa- 
 guadero — Night Scene — First Sight of the Andes — Arrive 
 at Mendoza — Description of the Natives of the Pampas — 
 Travelling Companions — Ball at Mendoza — Mendoza La- 
 dies — Alameda or Public Walk — Preparations for entering 
 the Andes. 
 
 Tuesday, %\st. Started at eight, with a relay 
 of horses for Santa Barbara, nine leagues, and 
 bad road, I rode this stage on an excellent horse, 
 and arrived two hours before my companions, 
 from whom I learnt that they had been upset, 
 and could not proceed faster than a walk, owing 
 to the badness of the road. We took five horses 
 
UPSET OF THE CARRIAGE. 55 
 
 to the next post, Tegua ; which was very bad, and a 
 dreary road. From thence we skirted along to the 
 southward, by the side of the high hills of the Sirra 
 de Cordova. It reminded rae much of being at sea, 
 with land in sight ; the inhospitable and barren 
 plain we were driving through, could scarcely 
 persuade me that I was on shore. While 1 was 
 enjoying the joke against my companions at not 
 being in the carriage when it upset, and they 
 were relating to me the scramble they had to get 
 out of it, we were passing through a large, 
 deep swamp, and galloping up its banks, 
 when away it went right over, completely 
 on its beam ends. This accident truly displayed 
 to me the excellent plan of harnessing the horses 
 in this country ; for the peons instantly cast ofi', 
 and were to our assistance in a moment. Really 
 they are clever fellows; having always their 
 wits about them : I never saw a dull, stupid man 
 during my journey. We soon put the carriage 
 to rights, having suffered no damage, and pro- 
 ceeded slowly on, on account of the roads, or, I 
 
56 SECOND UPSET OF THE CARRIAGE. 
 
 must rather say, our carriage, for it was not one of 
 the travelling vehicles of the country, the wheels 
 not being broad enough for the deep tracks by 
 two feet ; consequently, we were one wheel in, 
 and the other out, during the whole of these rug- 
 ged places, which not only rendered it extremely 
 unpleasant, but, at times, very dangerous. In the 
 evening, arrived at the Corral de Barrancas, 
 making only seventeen leagues. This is a 
 most excellent post, having a large room for pas- 
 sengers, and most civil owner. Notwithstanding 
 we had a good supper, and a room with a door to 
 it, three of us were obliged to sleep on the mud 
 floor, and two on the mud benches, not having the 
 luxury of a catre, which, as I have before ob- 
 served, are seldom to be met with in these wild 
 Pampas, and I would strongly recommend tra- 
 vellers to carry one with them ; it may be easily 
 constructed and made very portable. Should fe- 
 males travel, they will find the benefit of it. 
 
 Wednesday, August \st. Started at eight: at 
 four leagues distance crossed the Rio Quarto, 
 
ARROYO DE BARRANQUITA. 57 
 
 and arrrived at the post of El Tambo, situated 
 on its banks in rather a pleasant situation, having 
 a fine view of the hills of the Sierra, rising be- 
 yond a vast plain of sand, formed by the river's 
 overflow. Although this post is bad for accom- 
 modation, we got most excellent horses, which 
 took us well through a bad road to La Aguadita, 
 four leagues, from which place it became so very 
 bad, that we were obliged to have five horses, 
 walking very slowly the whole post, and, in 
 many places, stopping to cut our road. Crossed 
 the Arroyo de Barranquita, the opposite banks 
 of which were so steep, that we were obliged 
 to get out, and unload part of the carriage. 
 It was truly beautiful to see the full gallop 
 the peons made at the bank, and dragged 
 the carriage up its steep sides. We now 
 arrived at the post of the same name ; the 
 torrents from the Sierra had worn such deep ruts 
 in the road, that we only made twelve leagues 
 this day. Finding our progress so slow, and 
 every prospect, if we travelled faster, of the car- 
 riage breaking down, (for one of the springs was 
 
58 STORM ON THE PAMPAS. 
 
 already broken,) and having been twice upset, my 
 companion and I, (being very anxious to get for- 
 ward,) thought it more prudent that we should 
 leave it, and perform the rest of the journey on 
 horseback; so we accordingly made our pre- 
 parations to start early the next morning. 
 
 The post-house of Barranquita is a very large 
 one, and has a chapel fronting the post-room 
 door : its situation, also, is rather pleasant. Not- 
 withstanding all this, it was the most filthy, dirty 
 place we had met with, the owners being too 
 rich to care any thing about accommodating pas- 
 sengers. 
 
 Thursday, Aiigust ^d. It blew a gale of 
 wind, with heavy rain, which prevented our 
 starting. I have heard of the miseries of being 
 confined in an inn during a rainy day -, I will 
 leave those to judge who have crossed the Pam- 
 pas, what it must be in one of those wretched 
 post-houses ; wet, dirty, and swarming with ver- 
 min—obliged to have the door open, admitting 
 wind, rain, and cold, or else remain in the dark. 
 Our luggage lay scattered about the nuid and 
 
ARRIVAL OF INDIANS. 
 
 59 
 
 dirty floor, answering the purpose of seats and 
 tables. No cheerful fire to sit by, or passers by 
 to wear off the gloom : I wandered up and down 
 the cold damp room, wrapped up in my boat- 
 cloak, shivering with cold, and amused myself 
 reading the names of various travellers, that were 
 legibly marked upon the walls. Here were 
 sweethearts thought of — characters pourtrayed — 
 many fears registered of the Indians being 
 about ; with these, and stuffing up the holes of 
 my friends, the rats, that had annoyed me during 
 the night, and now and then viewing the passing 
 storm, T contrived to pass a most tedious day. 
 Towards evening it cleared up, when we were 
 visited by some friendly Indians, who brought 
 two captives with them, a man and a boy, natives 
 of Chili. While we were in the master of the 
 post's room, with his family, the captives came 
 to the door, and sang a most plaintive air, ac- 
 companied with a guitar that was lent them by our 
 host's daughter, who also favoured us with a 
 specimen of the Pampas music. It was a mere 
 
60 PAMPAS MUSIC. 
 
 tinkling monotony;, but still, rather plaintive. 
 These Indians possessed dull, inanimate counte- 
 nances, with a wild, inexpressive stare : the 
 cacique, or chief, was dressed in a very fine 
 poncho, wearing a red band round his hat, with 
 a tuft of red feathers and large Pampas spurs ; 
 they were all mounted on very fine horses. 
 
 Friday, Sd. The storm had passed by, and 
 left us a piercing, cold, frosty morning, with 
 thermometer at 30°. To my astonishment, on go- 
 ing outside, I found the Indians asleep in the 
 open air, notwithstanding the hard frost, with 
 scarcely any covering ; one had nothing over his 
 feet, and his pillow was a hatchet. They had 
 been drinking too freely at the pulperia over night, 
 and there they lay, just where they had dropped, 
 like so many pigs. Poor fallen beings ! I could 
 scarcely look upon them as human. Man ! man ! 
 what dost thou fall to. Our companions endea- 
 voured to persuade the captive boy to return to 
 Mendoza with us, offering to reward him liberally. 
 
LEAVE THE CARRIAGE. 61 
 
 but all to no purpose ; lie appeared perfectly 
 indifferent to his situation. 
 
 At nine^ we left our Spanish companions in 
 the carriage, and proceeded on horseback, pass- 
 ing through a very rocky country, at the foot of 
 the Sierra, whose summits were covered with 
 snow. At five leagues distance, arrived at the 
 post of Achiras, whose situation is very roman- 
 tic, being entirely surrounded by rocks. Two 
 leagues from hence separates the provinces of 
 Cordova and San Luis. We now besran to 
 fall in with a little traffic on the road between 
 Mendoza and Cordova, and also met a few pas- 
 sengers. The next post is Porte Zuela : an 
 extremely wild and rocky road. On leaving 
 this post, the country assumes a more varied 
 appearance ; but the road becomes rugged and 
 rocky. 
 
 The Morro de St. Joze, a barren mountain, 
 now opened in the distance, with all the appear- 
 ance of an island ; its summits covered with snow. 
 Having to pass round it, we crossed several 
 
()2 MORRO DE ST. JOZE. 
 
 ravines^ deep and rocky ; the wind from the 
 south-west blew very keen, on account of 
 passing over the snow. At the foot were two 
 solitary huts, peeping from amongst the rocks, 
 and a few cattle grazing high up the mountain. 
 On rounding the point of the Morro, the high 
 hills of San Luis opened in the distance ; and 
 as the sun set upon them, we could perceive 
 their summits covered with snow. On clearing 
 the point, we arrived late at the village of the 
 Morro de St. Joze," situated at the foot of the 
 mountain. Its situation is bleak and dreary ; the 
 bitter south-west wind blows down piercingly 
 cold ; and the deep ravines bear evident marks 
 of the velocity of the torrents when they come 
 down the mountain in the rainy season. The 
 village consists of about thirty mud huts, and 
 has a chapel. The post is wretchedly bad and 
 dirty, swarming with fleas ; but there is a pul- 
 peria, the owner of which showed every disposi- 
 tion to be accommodating to travellers : from 
 him we got all that we required, which is not 
 
DIRTY POST HOUSES. 63 
 
 always the case; for they will generally refer 
 passengers to the post-house. 
 
 Saturday, ^th. We were detained for horses 
 till eleven o'clock, then started for Rio Quinto, 
 a long stage of twelve leagues. This road is 
 extremely bad and heavy for a carriage. The 
 country now became more woody, and very 
 rocky. Our cargo horses detained us very 
 much this journey, not being able to get them, 
 for the last six leagues, faster than a walk. We 
 passed the remains of many a poor horse that 
 had dropped and died on this long stage. On 
 crossing the Rio Quinto, we arrived at the post 
 of the same name, situated on its banks : this 
 is another wretched, dirty post. It is worthy of 
 remark, that after leaving the province of Santa 
 Fe, all the post-houses are wretchedly dirty; 
 probably not having been swept out for months : 
 this is chiefly owing to the indolence of the wo- 
 men ; for, the post-rooms are left to their ma- 
 nagement, the men being more engaged looking 
 after their horses ; when that is done, all their 
 
64 CARRIAGE OVERTAKES US. 
 
 wants appear to consist in a cigar, which, when 
 supplied, they care for little else ; but the wo- 
 men will do nothing but loiter away their time, 
 smoking; and are so disgustingly dirty, that it 
 is dangerous to go near them. From the pro- 
 vince of Santa Fe, also, cattle becomes very 
 scarce, owing to the poorness of the land; but 
 numerous flocks of sheep and goats supply their 
 place. This post being so long, thirty- six miles 
 without a change of horses, and the road very bad, 
 we did not arrive till four P. M. ; it was then 
 too late to proceed. The whole of the day it 
 blew a gale from the south-west, which rendered 
 travelling extremely unpleasant. The thermome- 
 ter varied in the course of the day, in the shade, 
 from 30" to 70°. From this post there is a fine 
 view of the mountains of San Luis. In the 
 evening, the carriage arrived ; and, as we found 
 we could not travel faster, on account of our car- 
 goes, we made up our minds to take to it again. 
 Sunday, hth. We started at eight o'clock 
 in the carriage, with a relay of fourteen horses; 
 
PROCEED IN THE CARRIAGE AGAIN. 65 
 
 making in all, twenty- three horses, eight peons, 
 and five travellers : the roads were uncommonly 
 bad, and, owing to our wheels not having span 
 enough to go into the deep ruts, we were obliged 
 to travel off the main road, amongst brushwood 
 and trees, which was very fatiguing for the 
 horses, as, in many places, we w ere compelled 
 to stop and cut a road before us for some dis- 
 tance, and were frequently in great danger of 
 being upset. 
 
 When we wanted to change horses, we stopt 
 and surrounded them, and they were lassoed by 
 the peons with their usual dexterity. Skirting 
 by the Sierra de San Luis, at about a league 
 from the town, we entered a very pretty valley, 
 formed by two high mountains, partially covered 
 with thick brushwood, thus making a complete 
 natural pass through the Sierra. On clearing 
 this valley, we crossed an Arroyo, and entered the 
 town of San Luis (the capital of the province) 
 by a long street, having a mud wall on each side. 
 The houses are all built of mud bricks, and laid 
 
66 CARRIAGE OVERTAKES US, 
 
 out in cuadras. There are only one or two decent 
 houses in the town; these were white-washed. 
 There is a good church and plaza; the post is 
 wretchedly bad. We were fortunate enougli to 
 get to a very good pulperia^, kept by Juan Joze 
 Gil, who was very attentive, and made us as 
 comfortable as could be expected. I here had 
 the luxury of a shave and change of linen, for 
 the first time since leaving Buenos Ayres, which, 
 after twelve days' filth and dirt, was no small 
 pleasure ; and, with the addition of a good 
 supper, I managed to pass the night with some 
 degree of comfort. 
 
 Monday, ^fh. Left San Luis at ten, with a 
 relay of twenty horses. Met a Mr. B. from Men- 
 doza ; and travelled on through brushwood and 
 trees, at times cutting our way through till we 
 arrived at the post of Represa, seven leagues ; 
 from whence, we took fresh horses, and after pass- 
 ing seven leagues over a tolerable road, saw the 
 beautiful lake of Chorillas on the left, with the hills 
 of San Luis rising on the opposite shore. Leaving 
 
RIO UESAGUADERO. 67 
 
 this, a vast plain again extends to the right as 
 far as the eye can reach ; bat our road still lay 
 through brushwood and trees; and it was late 
 before we arrived at a pulperia, situated on the 
 banks of the Rio Desaguadero, which separates 
 the province of San Luis from Mendoza. Here 
 we remained for the night, being too late to cross 
 the river ; and the novel scene fully compensated 
 for our detention. It was a lovely moonlight 
 night : on the opposite shore were about twenty 
 waggons of the country drawn up, and upwards 
 of a hundred mule-loads of wine regularly laid 
 out in a circle, forming an encampment, waiting 
 to cross over : on our side, were about the same 
 number; the cattle were feeding by the sides of 
 the waggons, and the mules straying about, pick- 
 ing up what they could. In the midst of these 
 various encampments, were seven or eight fires 
 on each side of the river; round which, were 
 different groups of eight or ten peons, some 
 preparing their suppers. Their long knives and 
 dark countenances were easily distinguished as 
 
 p2 
 
68 CROSSlN(J HIO DESAGUADERO. 
 
 they were hanging over the pots on the blazing- 
 fires. Others were smoking, others singing, 
 and some bringing fire-wood. The moon spark- 
 ling on the rippling Desaguadero, vvitli the flocks 
 of goats and kids bleating about our abode, 
 made it altogether a scene peculiarly novel, wild, 
 and interesting. 
 
 Tuesday, 1th. This was a busy morning. Our 
 peons were up betimes preparing the carriage 
 to cross the river. Those on the opposite shore 
 were employed getting their cargoes over on a 
 raft, constructed of six. barrels; a second one 
 was composed of two canoes lashed together, 
 and covered with rushes. The horses were driven 
 into the stream, which was running rapidly down 
 at the rate of four miles an hour : it was an in- 
 teresting sight to see so many beautiful animals 
 showing their various dispositions to cross. All 
 but one, after some difficulty, followed the 
 mare's bell, and arrived snorting on the opposite 
 shore, some distance from where they started, 
 having been swept down by the stream. They 
 
FIRST SIGHT OF THE ANDES. 69 
 
 were immediately lassoed by the peons, and pre- 
 pared for starting. Our carriage was sent over 
 on the raft of barrels, for which we paid six dollars, 
 and by half-past nine we were moving in the 
 province of Mendoza. On the first rise of ground 
 we had a view of the mighty Tupungato, the 
 highest mountain in this range of the Cordillera : 
 its summits were towering in the clouds, a mass 
 of snow, and all we saw of it resembled an ice- 
 berg. Changing horses at Tortugas and Corral 
 de Quero, we arrived at the village of Corro 
 Corto just as the sun set behind the mighty 
 mountain, from which we must have been, at 
 least, one hundred and thirty miles. 
 
 This village was, at one time, better tenanted, 
 which the ruins of a few houses testify ; there are 
 a few poplars planted here, the first appearance 
 towards cultivation or improvement displayed in 
 any of the villages we had hitherto passed 
 through. The post was tolerable, and we found 
 it the station of a custom-house officer, who ex- 
 amined our passports. 
 
70 LA VILLA NUEVA. 
 
 Wednesday, Sfh. Being a fine moonlight 
 morning, we started at half-past four, and took 
 an asado* for breakfast at Dormida del Negro, 
 ten leagues, a bad post, but a new one was 
 building. Changing horses again at Catetos and 
 Chacona, each six leagues, we arrived at 
 Retano, nine leagues ; we now came into a cul- 
 tivated and civilized country. This post is a 
 good brick building, with plantations of poplars 
 near it, the whitewashed walls and green doors 
 gave it quite an air of cheerfulness. From the 
 top we had a fine view of the mighty Cordillera, 
 which now arose considerably to our view like a 
 tremendous barrier of snow. We here turned 
 off the main road in order to visit a relation of our 
 travelling companions, at Villa Nueva, a village 
 about two leagues distance. It was founded 
 by General San Martin, and formerly bore his 
 name ; but not being so fortunate as to retain 
 the good esteem of the natives of Mendoza, 
 they have changed it as above. Its situation is 
 
 * Asado signifies a piece ot any meat roasted. 
 
APPROACH TO MENDOZA. 71 
 
 pretty, having many fine fields, with good hedges 
 and plantations of poplars, and well supplied 
 with cattle and water. The road to it also is 
 good, being hedged on both sides. 
 
 Thursday, August *dth. We left the Villa 
 Nueva at ten, and skirted into the main road 
 again, which became very stony, with here and 
 there streams of water running across : it was 
 much overflowed, in many places for the distance 
 of a quarter of a mile, and many bad pantanos 
 in it. Changed horses at the post of Rodeo del 
 Medio, five leagues from Retano. As we neared 
 Mendoza, each side of the road was lined with 
 a mud wall, and here and there, rows of poplars. 
 About noon crossed the Rio de Mendoza, and 
 entered the town at an amazing rate : the peons 
 spurring the poor horses till the blood absolutely 
 ran from their sides. This, in the opinion of our 
 travelling companions, (whom I shall give a de- 
 scription of hereafter,) w^as thought very fine 
 indeed. We were shortly afterwards set down 
 at the inn, one of the most dirty houses in the 
 
72 
 
 ARRIVAL AT MENDOZA. 
 
 town^ thus completing our journey in sixteen 
 days. 
 
 In the Appendix will be found a list of 
 the post-houses on the Pampas, as regulated 
 by government, which will show what distance 
 the traveller has to pay for ; and also where 
 he is likely to get refreshment, which is not 
 to be procured at all of them : therefore, 
 if he should happen to stop for the night 
 where nothing is to be had, he would stand 
 a chance of going to bed rather hungry. As 
 I have been obliged to draw certain distinc- 
 tions between good, bad, tolerable, &c. my 
 readers must not think, when I use the term 
 excellent, that any thing is to be expected 
 beyond bread, meat, spirits, &cc. ; it is only used 
 to express a certainty of getting these things. 
 Again, when I say very good, bread and meat 
 may be had, and nothing further ; for yood, 
 bread only, with a chance of getting meat; but 
 for had, and very had, it will certainly be a 
 chance if he ^^i any thing at all. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES OF THE PAMPAS. 73 
 
 Having now crossed the vast and dreary 
 Pampas, I can only say, that after travelling- 
 through such a country as the Banda Oriental, 
 it approaches almost to civilization ; in fact, I 
 found as much or more than could be ex- 
 pected in such a desert country. Indolence and 
 gambling appear to be their existing propen- 
 sities : the former I am not astonished at, on ac- 
 count of their very few wants ; as long as they 
 have beef, water, and a cigar, all are supplied. 
 The natives of the Pampas are a remarkably 
 fine, handsome race of men, with expressive, 
 intelligent countenances. From necessity, being- 
 driven entirely to their own resources for a live- 
 lihood, they have acquired a very independent 
 air ; and from living almost on horseback, it ap- 
 proaches even to nobleness. Their good quali- 
 ties are very conspicuous : treat them civilly, 
 they will always return it in kind far beyond 
 what may be expected. A cigar presented in 
 due season, and with a proper degree of polite- 
 ness, will effect more than all the harsh words 
 
74 WOMEN OF THE PAMPAS. 
 
 you can give them, for they will not brook it ; 
 and why should they ? Living as free and inde- 
 pendent as the wind, they cannot and will not 
 acknowledge superiority in any fellow-mortal. 
 They are fond of asking questions, but it will 
 be done with all the air and manners of a cour- 
 tier, fearing to give offence ; nevertheless, they 
 will expect to be answered with equal civility. 
 Their ideas are all equality : the humble peon, 
 and my lord, would be addressed equally alike 
 by the simple Gaucho with the title of " Senor." 
 n/ Strange withal, they should be so dirty and in- 
 
 dolent : the women in particular, as I have before 
 stated, are disgustingly so. Comfort they have 
 no idea of: as long as they can poke about in 
 the mud and dirt, sitting almost suffocated round 
 the fire in the middle of their filthy huts, with a 
 cigar in their mouths, they are happy. Should 
 they be required to do any thing for the pas- 
 sengers, they will get up, and shaking the ver- 
 min off their clothes, scratch themselves for a 
 while, and set about it with all the ill will of a 
 
METHOD OF PRESERVING GRAIN. 75 
 
 surly dog obeying its master ; and their manner 
 of speaking is that disgusting^, apathetic whine, 
 so peculiar to the West Indian Creoles. 
 
 The method of preserving grain in the Pam- 
 pas, is very curious ; that useful animal, the ox, 
 su]3plies the want of almost every thing. They 
 sow the legs of a whole skin up, and fill it full of 
 corn : it is then triced up to four stakes, with 
 the legs hanging downwards, so that it has the 
 appearance of an elephant hanging up ; the top 
 is again covered with hides, which prevents the 
 rats getting at it. In stretching a skin to dry, 
 wood is so scarce, in many parts of the Pampas, 
 that the rib bones are carefully preserved to 
 supply its place, and used as pegs to fix it in 
 the ground. A child's cradle consists of a square 
 sheepskin, laced to a small rude frame of wood, and 
 suspended like a scale to a beam or nail in the 
 rancho. The poor little parroquets, which are 
 very numerous, and generally made prisoners 
 when caught alive, are sown up in a box of hide 
 with a small round hole cut in it, just large enough 
 
76 DESCRIPTION OF OUR 
 
 to let its head out for eating, with scarcely room 
 to turn. Its reign in these small prisons is very 
 short, being soon suffocated fi*om its own dirt 
 and want of air; for cleaning them out they never 
 dream of. I now come to my travelling com- 
 panions, whom, as I have observed, were bro- 
 thers, and natives of Mendoza : the youngest, a 
 man about thirty-four, was a lieutenant-colonel 
 in the Peruvian army ; he wore ear-rings. They 
 purchased the carriage on the strength of meeting 
 with two Englishmen, who paid them a hundred 
 and twenty-five silver dollars each for their seats, 
 and for which they paid two thousand paper dol- 
 lars, or shillings, which was the current rate of ex- 
 change at the time. It was ridiculous to see with 
 what pride they surveyed this vehicle every day ; 
 and they did not, positively, know how to open or 
 shut the door, or let down the steps. Every 
 wretched post-house we stopped at, a description 
 of the carriage was given, a general survey held, 
 the door opened and shut, the glasses let up and 
 down half-a-dozen times, very much to the amuse- 
 
TRAVELLINd COMPANIONS. 77 
 
 ment of the simple Gauchos, who stared with as- 
 tonishment, while the gallant colonel and his bro- 
 ther would stand with folded arms, eulogizing its 
 various qualities, with an air of self-importance, 
 not to equalled by the Dey of Algiers himself; 
 taking care, as we advanced in distance, that they 
 advanced in the price they gave for it ; for not 
 being very particular with regard to their veracity, 
 it increased to the amount of three thousand five 
 hundred dollars by the time we arrived at Men- 
 doza: independent of this, they carried with them 
 various articles of merchandize, in a small way, 
 such as snuff-boxes, watches, rings, fans, &c. &c. 
 much resembling our hawking pedlars in England. 
 A gold, musical snuff-box was a grand display, 
 every place we stopped at ; it confirmed their gran- 
 deur, by the surprise and astonishment of the na- 
 tives, who had never seen such a thing in their 
 lives : even the Indians had a laugh and roar at 
 it, and I verily believe would have smashed it on 
 the ground, from pure delight, could they have 
 got it into their hands. A trumpery watch was 
 
73 DINNER AND BALL AT MENDOZA. 
 
 shewn to me as a chronometer, and some bauble 
 paste rings as diamonds : fans smeared over 
 with gold and silver spangles and stars, were 
 represented as very superb, and in high request 
 among the ladies of Mendoza, to whom we were 
 to have the honour of being introduced, which 
 ceremony took place soon after our arrival, a 
 dinner and ball being given for the purpose. 
 Frequently were we asked, very seriously, if 
 this carriage really did belong to the M.s, such 
 a thing never having before been seen in Men- 
 doza ; for I have observed, it was not one of the 
 vehicles of the country, but a light, English, 
 travelling-carriage. The day of days arrived — 
 the carriage was flying about the town, with a 
 couple of mules, to bring all the ladies to dinner, 
 in order to meet the foreign gentlemen. We 
 were all seated higgledy-piggledy at table ; dish 
 after dish came in ; every one helped themselves ; 
 no carving was required, being all made dishes : 
 The master of the house was walking round the 
 room, with his coat off, very comfortably smoking 
 
DINNER AND BALL AT MENDOZA. 79 
 
 his cigar ; and between every fresh dish, of which 
 there were some tliirty or forty, the ladies 
 amused themselves eating olives soaked in oil ; 
 and the colonel, to prove that he understood 
 foreign manners and customs, got the ladies, 
 one after the other, to ask the foreign gentlemen 
 to drink wine with them, which was no small 
 ordeal for us to run through. After these half- 
 hundred dishes, came the sweets ; then the gen- 
 tlemen's flints and steels were going, the room 
 soon filled with smoke, and the ladies retired to 
 dress for the ball, which went off very well, as 
 they were really very pretty, and uncommonly 
 well dressed. It was a painful reflection when 
 I found several pointed out to me that could not 
 absolutely write ; such is the state of society in 
 Mendoza, and the bigotry of some of the fathers 
 of families, to this day, that they will not allow 
 their daughters to learn to write, for fear of their 
 holding correspondence — with whom shall I say? 
 — most probably, persons who would improve 
 
80 
 
 MENDOZA LADIES. 
 
 their minds, and save tliem from the ignorance 
 and folly of seeking admiration from the men, 
 which is all they appear to think about, and 
 which is amply repaid with the most profound 
 respect and adulation to their personal charms, 
 but decided contempt for their understanding's. 
 At the ball, the whole town attended, the waltz 
 and Spanish dance went on : the gentlemen were 
 smoking and spitting about the room, and I re- 
 tired to the dirty miserable inn, thinking that I 
 should soon be performing a very different dance 
 over the mighty Andes, now stretching close to 
 this town, appearing a huge mass of impene- 
 trable snow towering most solemnly aloft, as if 
 in attempt to reach the heavens itself. 
 
 My short stay at Mendoza gave me very little 
 time to make any observations on the place. I 
 had the pleasure of being introduced to Dr. Gil- 
 lies, whose botanical researches have been so 
 justly appreciated in England ; but was sorry to 
 find him so indisposed as to be confined to his 
 
DISPATCH A PEON OVER THE ANDES. 81 
 
 bed two days out of the four that we were de- 
 tained. He had engaged an arreiro or guide of 
 the Cordillera for us, with whom we arranged 
 to start as soon as possible. A peon was 
 therefore instantly dispatched to Chili to have 
 mules in readiness by the time we arrived on 
 the other side of the snow. The accounts we 
 heard of the state of the Cordillera were very 
 dreadful ; many lives had already been lost, and 
 owing to its being so blocked up with snow, 
 no courier or communication had been re- 
 ceived from Chili for five weeks, so that we 
 were entirely ignorant as to the state of the 
 passes. Such a dreadful winter had not been 
 known for very many years; indeed, we had 
 only to look up at the tremendous mountains 
 of snow before us, to be convinced of this fact. 
 As we walked the Alameda, or public walk of 
 Mendoza, they lay stretching to our view, and 
 caused me many an anxious glance. The situa- 
 tion of this Alameda is very pleasant, being 
 at the foot of the Andes, I must not say Cor- 
 
82 ALAMEDA OR PUBLIC WALK. 
 
 dillera, for that cannot be seen from Mendoza, 
 owing to the view being obstructed by a nearer 
 range of high mountains^ of which this walk 
 commands a noble prospect; it has also two 
 fine rows of poplars on each side, with a stream 
 of water running between them ; but so little 
 regard had the natives of Mendoza for the ap- 
 pearance of these poplars and beauty of the 
 walk, that they were then absolutely cutting 
 them down, without any attention to regularity, 
 merely to build a new roof to the theatre. 
 
 Our time was now occupied in making pre- 
 parations for entering the Andes. Leaving to 
 the arreiro to supply us with mules and peons, 
 we took care to lay in a plentiful supply of pro- 
 visions, and had our bread baked for the pur- 
 pose, so that it would keep in the event of being 
 caught in a snow storm. On the evening of 
 the 13th we were all ready for starting, but by 
 the advice of Dr. Gillies, sent all our luggage 
 off before us, to a house about two leagues from 
 the town, where travellers generally sleep the 
 
ALAMEDA OR PUBLrC WALK. 83 
 
 night previous to their entering the mountain- 
 ous district. This disagreeable we avoided by 
 arranging to start very early next morning, 
 and overtake the luggage on the road. 
 
 a 2 
 
84 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Leave Mendoza — Enter the Andes^ — Arrive at Villavicencia — 
 Twelve Peons blocked up in a Snow-storm — Dead Mules — 
 Singular appearance of them- — Sufferings of the Ancient 
 Indians — First sight of the Cordillera — Grand and awful 
 appearance — Reflection — Arrive at Uspallata — Peon found 
 blind in the Cordillera — First pass swept away — Description 
 of its dangers — Guanaco caught — Magnificent natural bed- 
 chamber in the Cordillera — Electricity found in our clothes 
 — Difficulties commence — Fourth Pass covered with Snow — 
 Its dangers — Lose a Mule down the Mountain — Fifth Pass 
 covered with Snow—Extreme danger — Lose two more 
 Mules — Second night in the Cordillera, with wild bed- 
 chamber and Gale of Wind — Leave the Mules, and pro- 
 ceed on foot — A Peon rolls down a Mountain of Snow, and 
 breaks his foot — Distress and labour of the Peons — Dead 
 Peon in the Snow — Reflection. 
 
 August I4:tk. Having' procured every thing 
 we thought necessary for entering the dreary 
 regions, we left Mendoza about eight o'clock in 
 
LEAVE MENDOZA. 85 
 
 the morning, and joining our luggage at the 
 house before mentioned, started at once in the 
 mountainous district with a train of about five- 
 and-twenty mules, but only six peons, the rest 
 were to join us as we went along, and some to 
 meet us at Chili ; for which purpose, as I have 
 before mentioned, a man was dispatched from 
 Mendoza immediately on our arrival. The first 
 part of our road lay over a barren soil, covered 
 with loose stones and dried bushes. We crossed 
 many dry channels, of what at some seasons 
 must be formidable rivers, caused by the tor- 
 rents coming down from the mountains when 
 the snow melts. After travelling about ten 
 leagues of this road, we struck into a valley, and 
 immediately commenced ascending ; so much 
 snow had recently fallen that we soon came to 
 small patches laying on the surface. 
 
 As we ascended, the mountains on each side 
 approached closer to each other, forming a very 
 deep and narrow valley, with the dry beds of 
 many torrents here and there intersecting our 
 
8G ARRIVE AT VILLAVICENCJA. 
 
 path ; night overtook us^, and it was late before 
 we arrived at the miserable hovel of Villavicen- 
 cia, a distance of fifteen leagues from Mendoza. 
 I was much fatigued with this journey, having 
 been twelve hours on the back of the same mule, 
 which compared with the fine spirited horses of 
 the Pampas was a miserable contrast, and ren- 
 dered the travelling much more tedious. 
 
 It was a novel and picturesque sight winding 
 up this valley ; the noise of the peons in order 
 to keep the mules together, made it ring with 
 their echoes, which vibrated very distinctly 
 amongst the rocks and mountains above us. 
 
 Villavicencia is nothing more than a misera- 
 ble hovel, built of mud, sticks, and stones ; 
 the roof at this time was nearly off, and the 
 gusts of cold wind came rushing down the 
 mountain into the frail habitation, scattering the 
 dust and dirt upon us as we lay shivering in 
 bed, which prevented all possibility of our get- 
 ting any sleep. We now began to feel the rapid 
 change of temperature ; morning and evening 
 
TWELVE PEONS BLOCKED UP IN A STORM. 87 
 
 freezings but the middle of the day almost op- 
 pressively warm. Here one of our peons 
 informed us, that " only a iew days ago, himself 
 with eleven others were blocked up in a casucha 
 twelve days, during a snow storm; that their 
 provisions failed them, and they had nothing to 
 eat but the carcase of a mule which they had 
 picked up in the snow : had it not been for this 
 providential discovery, they must have perished ; 
 one of his companions died, and it was probable 
 we might see his body in the snow." This was 
 the last and latest account we had heard of any 
 one having so recently been in the Cordillera. 
 
 August \bth. jRose at daylight, and sent the 
 cargo-mules on before ; two having strayed high 
 up in the mountains, the peons had some trou- 
 ble and difficulty in clambering after them, which 
 detained us till seven o'clock, when we followed 
 after and commenced ascending very fast. After 
 passing several patches of snow, laying in some 
 places two or three feet deep, and leaving a misera- 
 ble hut on our left, we came to a very steep ascent, 
 
88 VIEW OF THE PAMPAS. 
 
 where the snow lay hard and frozen in our path, 
 which was a complete zigzag all the way up, 
 the mules slipped, stumbled, and struggled, and 
 it required much labour, noise, and encourage- 
 ment from the peons, to get them to the top, 
 where it blew a perfect hurricane ; but the scene 
 beneath us was grand and magnificent in the 
 extreme, and fully compensated for all our la- 
 bour. The vast and dreary Pampas lay stretch- 
 ing before us like a sea as far as the eye could 
 reach, without a solitary house or tree to obstruct 
 the view. 
 
 We were now at the top of the first range of 
 mountains that are seen from Mendoza, and the 
 snow in many places of our path began to lay 
 very thick, hard, and slippery ; passing through 
 one large drift, two of the cargo-mules stumbled 
 and fell ; the peons were obliged to dismount to 
 unload them and assist them up. Being myself 
 on a very bad one, I was obliged, much against 
 my inclination, to spur the poor animal till the 
 blood literally dropped I'rom its sides, or I 
 
DEAD MULES. 81) 
 
 should never have been able to have got him 
 through it; (it must be observed, had I dis- 
 mounted, the animal would have stood still.) 
 Many carcases of these poor drudging animals 
 strewed our path, just where they had died on 
 the journey ; and it was surprising to see in what 
 a state of preservation they appeared ; the rarified 
 atmosphere, I suppose, having that effect upon 
 them. Some seemed as if they had only died the 
 previous day. On examining them, the skin was, 
 as it were, baked, but adhered to the bones, leav- 
 ing a mere skeleton covered with skin, so that 
 I could with ease lift up any one of them in my 
 arms, being so very light. This appearance of 
 dead bodies is likewise applicable to many parts 
 of the Pampas, and also Peru. Wafer, an En- 
 glish surgeon, says, he and some others landed 
 
 at Vermejo in Peru, in 1687, and marched 
 about four miles up a sandy bay — " all which, ^' 
 he says, " we found covered with the bodies of 
 men, women, and children, which lay so thick 
 that a man might, if he would, have walked half 
 
90 THEIR SINGULAR APPEARANCE. 
 
 a mile and never trod a step off* a dead human 
 body. These bodies, to appearance, seemed as 
 if they had not been above a week dead, but if 
 you handled them they proved as dry and light 
 as a sponge, or a piece of cork. After we had 
 been some time ashore, we espied a smoke, and 
 making up to it, found an old man, a Spanish 
 Indian, who was ranging along the sea-side to 
 find some sea-weeds to dress some fish which 
 his companions had caught, for he belonged to 
 a fishing-boat hard by. We asked him many 
 questions in Spanish, about the place, and how 
 those dead bodies came there. To which he 
 returned for answer, that in his father's time, 
 the soil there, which now yielded nothing, was 
 green, well cultivated, and fruitful ; that the 
 city of Wormia had been well inhabited by 
 Indians, and that they were so numerous that 
 they could have handed a fish from hand to hand 
 twenty leagues from the sea until it had come to 
 the Inca's hands ; and that the reason of those 
 dead bodies was, that when the Spaniards came 
 
SUFFERINGS OF THE INDIANS. 91 
 
 and blocked up and laid siege to the city, the 
 Indians, rather than lie at the Spaniard's mercy, 
 dug holes in the sand and buried themselves 
 alive. The men as they now lie, have with them 
 their broken bows, and the women their spin- 
 ning wheels and distaffs, with cotton yarn upon 
 them."* 
 
 Frezier, a French voyager, who was also in 
 Peru in 1712, confirms the same account. He 
 says, ^^ The vale of Hilo, in which there are not 
 at present above three or four farms, formerly 
 maintained an Indian town, the remains of which 
 are still to be seen two leagues from the sea; — 
 a dismal effect of the ravages the Spaniards 
 have made among the Indians. 
 
 "There are still more moving marks of the 
 misfortunes of that poor nation near Arica, 
 above the church of Hilo, and all along the shore 
 as far as the point of Coles, being an infinite 
 number of tombs, that when they dig at tliis 
 
 * Voyage and Description of the Isthmus of America^ 
 page 166. 
 
92 SUFFERINGS OF THE INDIANS. 
 
 very time they find bodies almost entire, with 
 their clothes, and very often gold and silver ves- 
 sels. Those I have seen are dug in the sand 
 the depth of a man, and inclosed with a wall of 
 dry stone : they are covered with wattles and 
 canes, on which there is a bed or layer of earth 
 and sand laid over, that the place where they 
 were might not be observed. 
 
 " They were so terrified that they thought 
 they must all die, when they were informed that 
 the Spaniards had not spared even their be- 
 loved Atuhalpa, who among them was looked 
 upon as the offspring of the sun, which they 
 worshipped. 
 
 " Therefore, to escape out of their hands, they 
 fled as far as as they could westward, to implore 
 the mercy of the sun ; but being stopped by the 
 sea, they buried themselves alive on the edge 
 ofit.^'* 
 
 Poor persecuted Indians ! thus are your suf- 
 ferings made known to us, and thus has the arid 
 
 * Relation du Voyage de la Mur du sud, page 160. 
 
FIRST FULL VIEW OF THE CORDILLERA. 93 
 
 soil of your country been the means of es- 
 tablishing to generations the barbarity of the 
 Spaniards ! 
 
 We shortly began to descend a little, and 
 soon opened the valley of Uspallata, where the 
 mighty Cordillera broke upon our view in all 
 its awful magnificence, covered with snow down 
 to its very base. This was the first full view we 
 had of it, for while on the eastern side of the 
 mountains we had just crossed, the summits only 
 were visible ; but now, the whole mass broke upon 
 our sight like a world of snow. I was struck 
 with amazement ; most wistfully did I throw my 
 head back to gaze at its mighty summits, tower- 
 ing amidst the clouds, and thought it almost 
 presumption to attempt such an undertaking as 
 crossing them. Oh, man! if ever thou hast the 
 vanity to think thyself more than what thou 
 really art, a mere worm upon earth, or that thou 
 art superior to any other of thy fellow-worms, 
 crawling here below — go, in the depth of 
 winter, and view the mighty, tremendous Cor- 
 
94 FEELINGS AT THE TIME. 
 
 dillera! This was an anxious glance for me, 
 fraught with deep reflection ; the various reports 
 we had heard of the danger^, the lives that had 
 already been lost, the uncertainty of being un- 
 able to proceed, and the total want of correct 
 accounts of the state of what now appeared so 
 awfully before us, rendered our situation alto- 
 gether extremely precarious and doubtful . While 
 in this frame of mind, trusting to the divine pro- 
 tection to save us through all, we suddenly met 
 a courier from Chili, which was a great relief to 
 us. He had at last ventured, and had been 
 fifteen days crossing, six of which he had tra- 
 velled on foot in the snow. He gave us cheering 
 prospects, informing us that the snow was hard, 
 and that he thought the weather settled. 
 
 We now travelled along the plain, which was 
 covered with brushwood, when in crossing a 
 deep stream, one of the cargo-mules fell back 
 into it, and it was astonishing to see how soon 
 the peons were in the water, to relieve the ani- 
 mal of its load, and assist him out. Shortly 
 
ARRIVE AT USPALLATA. 95 
 
 after, arrived at Uspallata, completely tired, 
 having travelled fifteen leagues on the same poor 
 mule I rode yesterday. 
 
 This is the last abode of man on the eastern 
 side of the Cordillera; and here we found a poor 
 peon, just recovering his eyesight, that had fif- 
 teen days ago been picked up in a casucha, 
 where he had remained many days blind, with- 
 out any thing to eat, having been deserted by 
 his companions. We found that we should be 
 detained here one day, as our arreiro had de- 
 ceived us in not bringing charcoal from Men- 
 doza, according to his agreement ; so the fol- 
 lowing day was employed in preparing this ne- 
 cessary article, making our snow-boots,* covering 
 our stirrups with wool, to prevent our toes from 
 being frost-bitten, pounding chaqui, &c. all in- 
 dispensably necessary before entering the frozen 
 
 * The snow-boots are nothing more than part of a sheep's 
 skin, wrapped over the ordinary boots or shoes, which keep 
 the feet remarkably wann. Under this again is a piece of hide, 
 to prevent the skin chafing, with the hair outwards, which gives 
 a firm hold while walking on the snow. 
 
96 ENTER THE CORDILLERA. 
 
 regions. There were two custom-house officers 
 stationed here, who informed us, that only eight 
 days ago, the plain was covered with snow, in 
 some places two feet deep ; but the sun having 
 amazing power, it was soon melted again. This 
 plain is celebrated for some mines, worked here 
 a few years ago : it forms a complete separation 
 from the Cordillera, and the mountains we had 
 hitherto been travelling over ; forming, as it 
 were, the last resting-place to the traveller, pre- 
 vious to his entering the dreary regions. It ex- 
 tends N. and S. about eight leagues ; and E. 
 and W. three or four leagues ; but in some parts 
 not so broad. 
 
 Friday, Vlth. Beautiful frosty morning : 
 left Uspallata at seven, and struck at once across 
 the plain over a few undulating hills, direct for 
 the frozen regions ; therm. 3° below the freezing 
 point. At about two leagues distance, came to a 
 very steep descent, by the side of a rapid 
 torrent, rushing down from the mountains above, 
 and discharging itself into the Rio de Mendoza, 
 
HERU OF GUANACOS. 97 
 
 whose bed we now descended into, and whose 
 opposite banks formed a perpendicular wall, in 
 some places one hundred and fifty feet high, with 
 the lofty mountains towering above, to the enor- 
 mous height of upwards of fifteen hundred feet, 
 their summits covered with snow. We were 
 now in the valley formed by these tremendous 
 mountains, with their mighty heads enveloped in 
 clouds, skirting along by the side of the Men- 
 doza, that was leaping and dashing over huge 
 blocks of stone, and roaring like the sea break- 
 ing on the shore in a gale of wind. We soon 
 commenced ascending very rapidly, and saw a 
 herd of guanacos in the mountains over our 
 heads ; a height of at least six or seven hundred 
 feet, appearing like so many rabbits. The dogs 
 that our peons had with them attempted to get 
 at them, but to no purpose ; they could not 
 ascend the perpendicular heights which these 
 animals stood upon. We soon came to the first 
 pass, Ladera de la Cortidera; it was indeed 
 terrific in appearance, and truly dangerous. Be- 
 
 H 
 
98 FIRST PASS SWEPT AWAY. 
 
 fore we arrived at it, our arriero, with two peons 
 went on before. I was pretty well in advance 
 of the rest ; but, on turning a point, all at once 
 I lost the path. I looked before and behind, 
 above and below, but no arriero or peons could 
 I see, till at last I heard him hallooing for me to 
 keep back, and then I saw them, like crows, 
 literally stuck in the side of the mountain ; the 
 arriero, with an iron crow-bar, clearing a footing 
 before him, and the stones rolling from beneath 
 his feet three or four hundred feet, splashing in 
 the torrent below. No wonder I missed them ; 
 for, for the space of a hundred yards, there 
 was not the slightest vestige of a path left, a 
 recent fall having taken place from above, had 
 swept it all down into the abyss below\ 
 
 In order to give the reader an idea of what 
 these passes are, it may be necessary to explain 
 how they are situated ; and a description of one 
 with very little variation will serve for all, ex- 
 cepting the latter ones, where we lost our mules, 
 and had snow to pass over instead of earth. 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE PASSES. 99 
 
 which rendered them much more difficult and 
 dangerous. 
 
 Our road lay by the side of the Rio de Men- 
 doza ; following it up the valley, which was formed 
 as I have before mentioned by immense mountains 
 on each side, reaching to the enormous height of 
 fifteen hundred and two thousand feet. Now, in 
 many places they ran so steeply down into the 
 river, as to leave no pass below ; hence it was cut 
 in the sides of the mountain itself, at tlie different 
 heights of two, three, and four hundred feet from 
 the torrent beneath ; but from the continual fall- 
 ing of large masses of rock and loose stones from 
 the immense heights above, they generally formed 
 a bay, which may in some measure account for 
 my so suddenly losing sight of the guide and 
 peons ; and these are called the laderas, or cuts 
 in the mountains, so much spoken of, and I may 
 say so much exaggerated by almost all travel- 
 lers. Here was a general halt ; and the peons 
 set to work making a new path, which on ac- 
 count of the substance being composed of loose 
 
 h2 
 
100 DANGER OF THE PASSES. 
 
 stones and earth, did not take up so much time 
 as I expected, although above head were huge 
 masses of granite, from which small fragments 
 were tumbling down, occasioned by the wind 
 acting on the parts where the recent fall had taken 
 place. On the pass being made venturable, if I 
 may use the term, we commenced crossing. To 
 look up or down was certainly dangerous, and 
 enough to make the strongest head giddy : our 
 eyes were fixed on our feei, which at every step 
 sent the loose stones jumping, and splashing 
 int® the torrent beneath ; had our feet once 
 slipped, nothing in this world could have saved 
 us from being dashed to atoms among the rocks, 
 in the foaming torrent below. No passengers 
 having passed since the fall, all the difficulty and 
 danger lay with us, (and, at this season of the 
 year, others were to be hourly apprehended,) 
 but, in the regular tract, I do not think the 
 slightest danger is to be apprehended. Our 
 mules were obliged to be unloaded, and the lug- 
 gage carried over on the peons' shoulders. It 
 
SINGULAR MOUNTAIN OF GRANITE. 101 
 
 was truly astonishing to see them resting literally 
 against the side of the mountain, and thus crawl- 
 ing along. It occupied us some time in getting 
 the mules over ; but all passed without any acci- 
 dent, and we loaded again, and proceeded on. 
 On (he opposite side of the stream, was a most 
 astonishing mountain of granite, not to be equal- 
 ed, I should imagine, in the world. I pointed it 
 out to my companion, who had never before re- 
 marked it, but was equally astonished with my- 
 self. It consisted of one solid mass, of at least 
 fourteen or fifteen hundred feet high, and very 
 nearly perpendicular ; having all the appearance 
 of a tremendous dark wall, without one single 
 vein of strata running through it. We soon 
 came to the second pass, or Ladera de la Jaula, 
 which was tolerable, and we passed it easily 
 enough with the mules loaded; in fact, where 
 there is any footing, as I have before observed, 
 I do not think any danger is to be appre- 
 hended, excepting from timidity ; for, even 
 should stones fall from above, by having presence 
 
102 GUANACO CAUGHT. 
 
 of mind, they may be avoided, having such an 
 innnense height to tumble. 
 
 A poor solitary guanaco was now seen at a 
 great height above us. The peons and dogs 
 clambered after it with astonishing rapidity, 
 and surrounded the poor animal, which in at- 
 tempting to escape, by leaping from one rock 
 to another, fell and broke its leg ; the peons in- 
 stantly dragged it down the mountain, head over 
 heels, a height of about five hundred feet, and 
 without bleeding or killing it, absolutely skinned 
 it alive. We now came to the Jaula or Cage, 
 from which the pass takes its name, where we 
 took up our quarters for the night, under the lee 
 of a solid mass of granite, upwards of thirty feet 
 square, with the clear beautiful heavens for our 
 canopy. Well may this place be called a cage: 
 to give a just idea of it would be next to impos- 
 sible, for I do not think a more wild or grander 
 scene in nature could possibly exist : neverthe- 
 less, I shall attempt a description. The foaming 
 river branching oil" into ditl'erent channels, formed 
 
WILJ) BEDCHAMBER. 103 
 
 by huge masses of granite laying in its course, 
 ran between two gigantic mountains of about one 
 thousand five hundred feet high, and not more 
 than two hundred yards distant from each other ; 
 so that to look up at the summits of either, we 
 had to lay our heads completely back on our 
 shoulders. Before us, these tremendous moun- 
 tains met in a point, round which we had just 
 passed, but now appeared as one mountain, 
 closing our view in a distance of not more than 
 four or five hundred yards ; behind was the mighty 
 Cordillera, a mass of snow, appearing to block 
 up further progress. Thus were we completely 
 shut up in a den of mighty mountains, to look up 
 either way, before, behind, right or left, ex- 
 cited astonishment— awe and admiration ; huge 
 masses of granite that had fallen from the awful 
 heights above, lay scattered about, and formed 
 our various shelters for the night. The torrent 
 which now had become very formidable, rushed 
 down with fury, bounding and leaping over the 
 
104 ELECTRICITY IN OUR CLOTHES. 
 
 rugged rocks which lay in its course^, keeping 
 up a continued foam and roar, close to our wild 
 resting-place. The mules were straying about 
 picking up the scanty shrubs, and our wild, un- 
 couth-looking peons were assembled round a 
 fire, under the lee of a large rock, cooking 
 their unfortunate guanaco, which altogether ren- 
 dered it a scene most truly wild and surpris- 
 ing. Here 1 was much astonished, on touching 
 any part of my woollen clothing, to find electric 
 sparks fly out wherever I put my hand : what 
 was the cause of this I am not philosopher 
 enough to know, but my companion informed 
 me, it was by no means extraordinary in dry 
 weather. However, never having heard or seen 
 it before, I take this opportunity of mentioning 
 it ; for I must own it rather surprised me, on 
 going to bed, to find fire fly out of my clothes. 
 
 Saturday, ISth was a lovely morning, with a 
 beautiful cerulean sky. By break of day we 
 started from our wild beds, and in vain did I 
 
LADERA DE LA PULVIDERA. 105 
 
 look, in order to ascertain which way we were to 
 get out of our mountain cage : the snow lay right 
 before us, but we wound round the foot of a 
 mountain, and began ascending very fast, our 
 path here and there obstructed by heavy falls of 
 snow running down the sides of the mountain 
 into the torrent. In many places it was very slip- 
 pery and dangerous, so that we were obliged to 
 dismount, leading the mules over with great diffi- 
 culty and caution ; my companion fell with his 
 mule, and had it been out of a hole, nothing 
 could have saved him from being precipitated 
 in the torrent. At about a league's distance, 
 came to the third pass, Ladera de la Pulvidera, 
 which was tolerable, and the mules passed with 
 their loads, there being no snow upon it I 
 must observe, that the general track of the 
 passes was about three feet wide, excepting 
 here and there, where it is always subject to 
 be more or less broken. Our ascent now became 
 very rapid into the snowy region, passing over 
 many deep falls. When at seven leagues from 
 
106 FOURTH PASS COVERED WITH SNOW. 
 
 where we started, we arrived at the fourth 
 pass Ladera de las Vacas : this was dreadful, 
 and plainly could we see that our difficulties and 
 troubles were now only commencing, as at the 
 first, no vestige of a track was left, the mountain 
 ran smooth for about one thousand two hundred 
 feet, right down into the river, and half of it was 
 covered with snow. We were detained a consi- 
 derable time making our road ; the mules were 
 again unloaded, and we proceeded over till we 
 came to the snow, where our work of distress 
 began, we literally crawled over on our hands and 
 knees, frequently slipping a few feet, but sup- 
 porting ourselves with our sticks. The mules 
 came next, all unloaded but one, with a few 
 light articles ; some of the peons took their sta- 
 tions at different distances down the mountain 
 of snow, with lassoes in their hands, fully ex- 
 pecting what was to follow : while the others 
 drove them on, when by dint of shouting, halloo- 
 ing, and beating, they got them to move. The 
 poor animals began stumbling, falling and sli})ping, 
 
LOSE A MULE DOWN THE MOUNTAIN. 107 
 
 but not losing their balance, slipping on their 
 haunches, at times thirty or forty feet down the 
 mountain ; all this time the peons were shouting, 
 roaring, and whirling their lassoes ; at last one 
 mule lost its balance, and over he went, rolling 
 and bounding head over heels, two hundred feet 
 down the mountain into the torrent beneath, 
 where he was whirled and dashed against the 
 rocks by the velocity of the current, and much 
 to my astonishment reached the opposite side of 
 the river apparently not much injured by its fall, 
 but its services lost to us ; presently the one 
 with half our provisions lost its hold, over and over 
 he went, all the lassoes flew at him, when after 
 bounding all down the mountain, they brought 
 him up just as he reached the torrent, thus 
 saving the poor animal and our provisions, but 
 we lost all our wine, some bread and beef, and 
 a pot for boiling. This day's work was not yet 
 over : as we advanced, the snow increased, and 
 we arrived at the fifth pass, Juan de Pobre; 
 which, if possible, was worse than all, for it was 
 
108 FIFTH PASS — EXTREME DANGER. 
 
 divided into two separate ones by the mass of 
 snow which covered it, and which in many 
 places was hard and slippery : to have taken our 
 eyes off our footing when once on it would have 
 been certain destruction. The same ceremony of 
 unloading was again performed, and every man 
 took his station. I beg to observe, that the 
 peons first went over with their sticks, breaking 
 the snow, thus making the footing more secure 
 for ourselves and mules. Every man took his 
 station, and we crawled over as usual, on 
 our hands and knees : the mules then followed, 
 and the most distressing work began ; they got 
 frightened, stumbled, and slipped, and cut them- 
 selves with the hard snow, to that degree in 
 their efforts to plunge through it, that the whole 
 track was covered with blood. Several lost their 
 balance, and went flying down the precipice, 
 till they were brought up with astonishing 
 dexterity by the lassoes. One poor animal came 
 rolling down, head over heels; neither his strug- 
 gles nor the lassoes could save him; he bounded 
 
LOSE TWO MORE MULES. 109 
 
 like a ball into the torrent, where he rolled 
 round and round, in vain struggling to stem 
 its velocity, being dashed against rocks and 
 stones, till he was swept round a point, and 
 I lost all sight of him. Another soon followed, but 
 was more fortunate than its companion, for he 
 succeeded in gaining the opposite shore, where, 
 very much to my astonishment, instead of see- 
 ing him laying with every bone in its body 
 broken, he got up upon its legs, and began 
 browsing among the rocks : thus we lost the ser- 
 vices of three. My companion, who had crossed 
 the Cordillera three times before, once in winter, 
 had never seen a mule lose its footing, so as to 
 roll down the mountains. 
 
 We now proceeded on, and crossed the Rio de 
 las Vacas, which joins the Mendoza, and termi- 
 nates the range of mountains we had been travel- 
 ling along since leaving Uspallata. Shortly after 
 this we came to a steep ascent, and arrived at 
 the Punta de las Vacas; where, on account of the 
 snow increasing on us so much, our mules 
 
110 SECOND NIGHT IN THE CORDILLERA, 
 
 could take us no further; indeed, had tliis not 
 been the case, half of them would have been of 
 no further service ; for the labour they had gone 
 through for four successive days, with scarcely 
 any thing to eat, had knocked them up. Mine 
 was entirely done for, and could scarcely get 
 one leg before the other for the last two miles, 
 which I was obliged to walk, so we determined 
 upon leaving them and proceeding on foot. The 
 situation, we were now from necessity driven to 
 for the night, was wild and dreary in the extreme, 
 in a valley surrounded by snowy mountains, 
 with part of the gigantic Cordillera in our rear; 
 like a huge island of snow, its summits obscured 
 in the clouds. The wind had increased, and the 
 clouds began to hang heavily over the enormous 
 mountains around us, small passing showers of 
 snow came on, and it soon blew a gale of wind, 
 which cracked and roared among the cavities 
 and rents in the high rocks above us, resembling 
 close thunder, threatening to sweep us, beds, 
 luggage, and every thing before it. All the lug- 
 
WITH A GALE OF WIND. Ill 
 
 gage and provisions was now airanged to be 
 carried by the peons, and it was curious to see 
 with what exactness they adjusted them as to 
 weight, and the good natured jokes they passed 
 with each other on their having to become mules 
 themselves in the morning. It was really a plea- 
 sure, under such trying circumstances, to see 
 how well they agreed with each other, and how 
 contentedly they submitted to the drudgery al- 
 lotted to them. I question whether as many of 
 my Own countrymen, moving in the same sphere 
 of life as these humble peons, would have tra- 
 velled so far, undergoing the same difficulties and 
 privations, without having a few disagreeables 
 amongst them. The arriero issued out two 
 days provisions, consisting of two small pieces 
 of chaqui or dried beef, (more resembling tough 
 leather than animal food,) and two small loaves 
 of bread; this was all their allowance. Every 
 thing now being prepared, we lay down to rest, 
 but could not sleep, for it blew a heavy gale, 
 with a bitter cold wind. I expected every mo- 
 
112 DESERT THE MULES. 
 
 nient to liave my bed blown from under me, and 
 the wind all night cracked so horribly above us, 
 fiat we were not sorry when daylight came, so 
 that we might be moving from our miserable 
 abode. 
 
 Sunday, V^th, was a very cold morning, ther- 
 mometer at the freezing point, and blowing a 
 gale of wind. The wild regions of snow were 
 close to us. We laced on our snow-shoes, each 
 man took his load, and we struck at once where 
 nothing, save human beings, could venture. We 
 soon came to a desperate descent in the side of 
 a mountain, all snow and hard frozen. Now the 
 labour of man commenced. It was with great 
 difficulty the poor peons, being loaded, could 
 keep their footing; several slipped down many 
 feet, and were all but going into the torrent. 
 One fell and rolled down a great way, but 
 fortunately, with the assistance of his stick, 
 saved himself from rolling into the torrent, but 
 not until his ancle was dislocated to that degree 
 that he could not rise to walk again ; thus, at first 
 
DEAD PEON IN THE SNOW. 113 
 
 starting, losing his services, and encumbering 
 us with a load more than we had a man to carry. 
 The poor fellow was, from necessity, compelled 
 to crawl his way back to the mules again, for we 
 could do nothing to assist him. From hence no- 
 thing but snow was to be seen, and it was truly 
 painful to witness the labour and continued fall- 
 ing of the poor peons ; at every step sinking up 
 to their knees. As they stopt to take breath their 
 cries were most distressing, being a long drawn 
 hey! uttered as if in the most dreadful agony, 
 at the same time leaning on their sticks for sup- 
 port, which would frequently penetrate so deeply 
 into the snow as to throw them flat on their faces, 
 which the weight of their loads would bury in 
 the snow, and cause them a great struggle to 
 get out again. About four p. m. it came on a 
 heavy mist of snow, and I arrived at the spot 
 where lay the body of the poor peon that had 
 perished but a few days ago. It was pointed out 
 to me by the man that was with him when he 
 
 I 
 
114 FEELINGS ON THE SUBJECT. 
 
 died, who gazed at it a moment, then looking at 
 me in the face, shook his head with much appa- 
 rent feeling, lifted up his shoulders, and sighed : 
 " Pobre companero," poor companion; then, 
 as if stifling a sigh to his memory, lifted up his 
 load, and hastened forward. Here was reflec- 
 tion for me. I cast my eyes first at the blanched 
 corpse, now covered with snow, then at his 
 companion, then on the dreary regions around 
 me, when, finding a tear of sympathy involunta- 
 rily starting to my eyes, 1 pushed forward, wish- 
 ing almost to forget I had ever seen it. 
 
 After five leagues of labour through the snow, 
 we arrived at the Casucha de Pujios, without 
 once treading on a spot of earth. This was the 
 miserable place our peon spoke of, and where 
 lay the bones of the mule they had subsisted 
 upon for twelve days. The snow now^ began to 
 fall so thick that it was truly dismal to look at. 
 The miserable casucha was nearly buried, hav- 
 ing a perfect wall around it near six feet high. 
 
CASUCHA DE PUJIOS. 115 
 
 We began to feel for the poor peons that were 
 caught in it ; it being nearly six o'clock before the 
 last two arrived, having volunteered to carry 
 the three loads between them, by being paid as 
 three men. 
 
 i2 
 
U6 
 
 CHAPTER VT. 
 
 Lose all sight of the Track — Incas Bridge choked up with 
 Snow — One of our Peons found nearly dead in the Snow — 
 Severity of the cold — Effects of cold — Interesting Extracts 
 of the Sufferings of the French Army in Russia — Advice 
 to Travellers — Snow-storm comes on — Peons lose their 
 Courage — Desert our Luggage, and make a precipitate 
 retreat to the Casucha — Blocked up till the next day — 
 Description of a Snow-storm — Excessive cold, Thermometer 
 fifteen degrees below freezing point. 
 
 Monday, 20 fk. — Waked the peons up at 
 daylight, who arose as cheerfully as if they had 
 been going out on a party of pleasure. It proved 
 a very fine morning, but bitter cold, thermo-' 
 meter standing twelve degrees below the freez- 
 ing poiat. 
 
 On account of the fall of snow during the 
 night, all appearance of the track was gone ; in 
 many places we were obliged to probe our way 
 
inca's bridge choked up with snow. 117 
 
 for some distance^ feeling whether it was hard 
 or soft, ill order to avoid many deep holes 
 that were covered on the surface. About a 
 mile from the casucha came to the Puente del 
 Inca, or Inca's Bridge, so much celebrated for 
 its hot springs, and being a curious natural pro- 
 duction -y but the stream was now covered with 
 snow, and I could but just see the hot springs 
 bubbling up. The bridge underneath was 
 choked with snow and a mass of icicles, so that 
 I could not venture down to survey it, which I 
 very much regretted, intending to have taken a 
 bottle of the water, which I believe has never 
 yet been analyzed in England. As the day ad- 
 vanced, the wind increased, and on account of 
 the high rarified atmosphere, it was bitter, pierc- 
 ingly cold, sufficient (to make use of a vulgar 
 phrase) to cut a mans nose off. The powerful 
 refleciion of the sun's rays upon the glittering 
 snow, caused great pain and watering of the 
 eyes. On coming to a very steep ascent, at an 
 angle of about 45", the snow being so hard 
 
118 • PEON FOUND NEARLY DEAD 
 
 and slippery, it was dangerous to venture up ; 
 therefore, our peons set to work, and in little 
 more than an hour, we had a flight of steps 
 cut in the snow in angular directions the whole 
 way up the mountain. One of the peons, in 
 coming down again, slipped his footing and 
 rolled over and over completely to the bottom : 
 fortunately for him he had not his load on his 
 back, and he fell clear of some rocks which here 
 and there just peeped above the snow, I found 
 the high wind very distressing to my eyes, and 
 the only relief I could find was by looking up, 
 as opportunity offered, at the beautiful clear blue 
 sky above, which, of course, caused me many 
 tumbles in the snow. 
 
 At 3 P.M. we arrived at the casucha Paramillo, 
 five leagues from Pujios. Our loaded peons 
 did not all arrive till about six, and as the last two 
 were coming in, they picked up one of our young 
 lads laying in the snow just going off to sleep. 
 Fatigue and drowsiness came over him, and he 
 lay down : had he remained a quarter of an hour 
 
IN THE SNOW. 119 
 
 longer, he would have been a corpse, for the 
 thermometer was then standing at 13" below the 
 freezing point; and this is the way in which 
 numbers of these poor fellows perish in the 
 Andes during the snow storms. When they 
 are tired, their courage very soon fails them, 
 and they will lay down till they get chilled ; a 
 kind of stupor and drowsiness then follows, 
 which is the sure forerunner of death in these 
 frozen regions. Precisely in the same manner 
 did the poor fellow perish, whose body we passed 
 yesterday; and so would this young man, had 
 not the two men been carrying three loads be- 
 tween them : thus proving to us the inscrutable 
 wisdom of Providence ; for had not one man dis- 
 located his ancle, the other would have lost his 
 life ; and so easily does the king of terrors 
 come over them, that many have been found in 
 the snow in a sleeping attitude, with the head 
 reclining on the arm, just as they had died. 
 
 We have many instances on record, of death 
 from cold, being preceded by drowsiness, which 
 
120 EFFECTS OF COLD. 
 
 it would be almost useless my attempting to 
 bring forward ; but being so particularly struck 
 with Dr. Cooper's remarks *^ On the Efiects of 
 Cold/' I cannot resist making a few extracts, 
 which may not only prove interesting to most 
 readers, but of vast importance to any one en- 
 tering into the frozen regions, or unfortunate 
 enough, at any time, to become frost-bitten. 
 He says — *^ The first eflect of certain degrees 
 of cold applied to the human body, is to retard 
 and weaken the circulation through the small 
 cutaneous vessels, more especially those which 
 are situated in the extreme parts, like the hands 
 and feet, or in projecting parts, as the ears, 
 nose, scrotum, &c. which expose a larger sur- 
 face to the atmosphere or medium, by which 
 their caloric is extracted; hence the skin be- 
 comes pale, and contracting round the miliary 
 glands and roots of the hair, exhibits a rough- 
 ness, which is compared to the skin of an un- 
 feathered goose, and is technically named the 
 cutis anserina. By severe degrees of cold, the 
 
EFFECTS OF COLD. 1*21 
 
 size of extreme parts is said to be so consi- 
 derably lessened, that rings, which are tight 
 when the body is warm, drop off the fingers, 
 and even shoes fall off the feet. The action of 
 the heart and arteries in general becomes weak- 
 ened ; and the blood being partially delayed in 
 its course through some of the cutaneous vessels, 
 and not undergoing the change of colour, which 
 a circulation through the lungs produces, it gives 
 a bluish or livid colour to the fingers, ears, and 
 other projecting parts. 
 
 " If the cold be intense, or the exposure long- 
 continued, the circulation in the extreme parts 
 becomes altogether interrupted, and the power 
 of evolving heat being completely destroyed, 
 mortification is the consequence. 
 
 " Parts killed in this manner are said to be 
 frost-nipped or frost-bitten, a subject which I 
 shall presently consider more in detail. From 
 the languor and weakness of the arterial system, 
 produced by the application of cold, other effects 
 on the constitution necessarily accrue. 
 
122 EFFECTS OF COLD. 
 
 " A free circulation of well oxygenated blood 
 seems essential to the perfect execution of the 
 functions of the brain, and nervous system, and 
 to the support of sensibility. If the circulation 
 is suspended for a few moments, as in syncope, 
 the sensibility is also suspended; and on the 
 other hand, when there is more than an ordinary 
 supply of blood to any part, as in inflammation, 
 the sensibility is highly augmented. Hence 
 another immediate eifect of the agency of cold on 
 the human body, is a diminution of the sensibility 
 of parts. 
 
 " This is universally felt in the numbness of 
 the hands and fingers, which, under the impres- 
 sion of cold, are altogether incapable of accurate 
 discrimination of touch ; and the whole of the 
 surface of the skin partakes of the imperfect feel- 
 ing. The tongue is also incapable of distin- 
 guishing the peculiar flavour of sapid bodies, if 
 they be extremely cold ; and the sense of smell 
 is considerably enfeebled by cold. 
 
 "If the cold be intense, or its application 
 
EFFECTS OF COLD. 123 
 
 long continued, the powers of the whole nervous 
 system yield ; a torpor of the animal functions 
 ensues ; the actions of the muscles become fee- 
 ble, and scarcely obedient to the will ; an un- 
 conquerable languor and indisposition to motion 
 succeed; and drowsiness comes on, ending in 
 sleep, from which the person, unless speedily 
 roused, frequently awakes no more.* The 
 strong propensity to sleep, tbllowing the anxiety 
 and lassitude experienced at an earlier period, is 
 noticed by most writers as a precursor of immi- 
 nent danger ; and it is certainly a symptom of 
 usual occurrence. 
 
 " Baron Lan*ey, in describing the manner in 
 which many of the French soldiers perished from 
 the severity of the cold in Russia, remarks, that 
 their death was preceded by a paleness of the 
 countenance, by a sort of idiotism, difficulty of 
 
 * See Rees's CyclopEedia, art. Cold ; and a description of 
 the effects of cold at Terra del Fuego, on the persons who 
 landed there with Dr. Solander and Sir J. Banks, as detailed 
 in Captain Cook's iirst voyage. 
 
124 SUFFERlNns OF THE 
 
 speech, weakness of sight, and even a total loss 
 of these faculties. In this state some of the men 
 continued to march, for a greater or lesser time, 
 led by their comrades. The action of the mus- 
 cles gradually grew weaker; the men reeled 
 about as if they were drunk ; and their debility 
 increased until they fell down ; a certain sign of 
 the total extinction of life. 
 
 '^ The incessant and rapid march of the troops 
 in close masses, obliged those who could not 
 bear it, to quit the centre to walk along the side 
 of the road. Separated from this compact co- 
 lumn, and left to themselves, they soon lost their 
 equilibrium, and fell into the ditches of snow, 
 from which it was hardly possible for them to get 
 out. Here they were immediately siezed with a 
 painful numbness, followed by lethargic drowsi- 
 ness, and in a few minutes their miserable exist- 
 ence terminated." 
 
 Treaiment of Persons in a Sfafe of Torpor, 
 or Suspended Animation fi'om Cold. — '' The 
 ample experience of Larrey," (contiiuies the 
 
FRENCH ARMY IN RUSSIA. 1'25 
 
 doctor,) " who was an eye-witness of all the dis- 
 asters of Napoleon's campaign in Russia, appears 
 also to confirm the truth of the principle incul- 
 cated by Hunter, Richter, Callisen, &c. In 
 describing the sufferings of the French army 
 from the rigour of the climate, Larrey exclaims, 
 ' Woe to the man benumbed with cold, whose 
 animal functions were nearly exhausted, and 
 especially whose external sensibility was de- 
 stroyed, if he entered too suddenly into a warm 
 room, or came too near the fire of a bivouac ! 
 The prominent parts benumbed or frozen, at a 
 distance from the centre of the circulation, were 
 seized with gangrene, which made its appear- 
 ance at the very instant, and spread with such 
 rapidity, that its advances were perceptible by 
 the eye, or the individual was suddenly suffo- 
 cated with a kind of turgescence, which appeared 
 to affect the brain and lungs ; he perished, as in 
 asphyxia. Thus died the chief apothecary of 
 the guards. He had arrived at Kowno, without 
 any accident, but his strength was much reduced 
 
126 TREATMENT OF PERSONS 
 
 by cold and abstinence. An asylum was offered 
 him in a warm apartment of the pharmacy of the 
 hospital. He had scarcely been a few hours in 
 this atmosphere, so new to him, when his limbs, 
 in which he had lost all feeling, became consi- 
 derably swelled, and he expired soon after- 
 wards in the arms of his son, and one of his 
 colleagues, incapable of uttering a single word. 
 We saw some individuals fall down stiff dead in 
 the fires of the bivouacs, 8cc.' 
 
 " In describing the treatment of a person in a 
 state of torpor, or suspended animation from 
 cold, Callisen and Richter rigorously adhere to 
 the principle, that caloric should be very gra- 
 dually communicated to the body. The former 
 recommends long continued frictions with snow, 
 or cloths wet with very cold water. This is to 
 be done in a very cold room ; and he advises the 
 surffeon not to let his endeavours cease too 
 soon, as patients, after lying without signs of 
 life for several days, have yet been snatched 
 from the jaws of death. 
 
IN A STATE OF TORPOR. 127 
 
 ^' On the return of sense, motion, and warmth, 
 aromatic spirituous applications may be externally 
 used; the temperature in which the body is 
 placed may be raised, and cordials at the same 
 time administered. Richter advises us, even to 
 cover the body with snow, or lay it in ice cold 
 water, in such a manner, that the mouth and 
 nostrils be not obstructed, care being taken not 
 to break any frozen part. Signs of vitality are 
 then to be awaited ; when these appear, strong 
 volatiles and sternutatories are to be applied to 
 the nostrils, and air is to be blown into the 
 lungs. The fauces are to be tickled with a 
 feather. He also recommends the introduction 
 of tobacco fumes up the rectum; a practice, 
 however, the propriety of which is questionable, 
 in all cases of suspended animation, on account 
 of the well-known noxious, debilitating, and 
 even deleterious effects of that plant. 
 
 " It might be better, perhaps, to throw warm 
 wine into the large intestines, or inject it by 
 means of a hollow bougie down the eesophagus. 
 
128 TREATMENT OF PERSONS 
 
 When the signs of returning animation increase, 
 Richter directs us to remove the body from the 
 water, rub it with diluted brandy, and convey it 
 into a warmer situation. A diaphoretic drink is 
 then to be given, and as soon as the patient has 
 been well dried, he is to be put to bed, and re- 
 main there till he begins to sweat. 
 
 " Probably, these eminent surgeons may have 
 extended the principle too far, in directing the 
 body to be at first covered or rubbed with snow. 
 But, I think we have every reason to believe, 
 that their method of allowing the heat to be 
 communicated only by degrees, is most likely to 
 be conducive to recovery. We should also re- 
 collect, that Callisen and Richter lived in cold 
 northern countries, where correct information 
 respecting this particular subject might be more 
 easily attained than in Great Britain. The resi- 
 dence of the former at Stockholm, the capital of 
 a very cold country, and his acknowledged 
 talents and impartiality, seem to confer peculiar 
 importance upon the few remarks which he has 
 
IN A STATIi UF I'ORPOH. 129 
 
 offered, on the topic now engaging our atten- 
 tion/' 
 
 ''^ Observations on the treatment cf parts 
 which are frozen. — Whatever doubts may have 
 been suggested concerning the propriety of keep- 
 ing patients out of a warm temperature, who 
 are in a state of torpor and insensibility from 
 cold, none exist with respect to the prudence of 
 extending this principle to the treatment of very 
 cold, or actually frozen parts of the human body. 
 
 '^ If a limb, that is not indeed frozen, but ex- 
 cessively cold, be suddenly warmed, chilblains, 
 frost-bite, and other more extensive forms of in- 
 flammation are the result. The part swells, 
 turns livid, and becomes affected with insup- 
 portable darting pain. And when a part ac- 
 tually frozen is thus quickly warmed, the same 
 symptoms arise, but in an aggravated degree, 
 and rapidly end in mortification. 
 
 " In this chapter, I have already cited some 
 facts, strongly illustrative of the danger of ex- 
 posing very cold or frozen parts to the fire ; but 
 
130 TREATMENT OF PARTS 
 
 perhaps, on no occasion has the thing been more 
 forcibly proved, tlian in the campaign of the 
 French army, about the period of the battle of 
 Eylau. During the three or four severely cold 
 days previous to this action, the mercury had 
 fallen to 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 degrees be- 
 low the zero of Reaumer's thermometer; and 
 yet, until the second day after the battle, not a 
 soldier complained of any accident from the effect 
 of the cold. ' We had, however, (says Larrey,) 
 passed these days, and a great part of the nights 
 of the hth, &th, 1th, 8th, and 9th of February, 
 in the snow, exposed to the most inclement 
 frost.' 
 
 " In the night, however, between the 9th and 
 10///, the temperature suddenly rose to 3, 4, 
 and 5 degrees above zero, accompanied with 
 sleet. A thaw then commenced, and from this 
 moment, numerous soldiers began to complain of 
 acute pain in their feet, numbness, sense of 
 heaviness, and annoying pricking pains in their 
 limbs. The parts were but little swelled, and 
 
WHICH ARE FROZEN. 131 
 
 of a dark red colour. In some individuals, a 
 slight redness was observed at the base of the 
 toes, and upon the instep ; while in others, the 
 toes had lost all power of motion, all sensation 
 and warmth, and become black and dried. These 
 patients, without exception, declared, that they 
 had felt no uneasiness while the severe cold 
 lasted; and that their complaints first began at 
 the comuiencement of the thaw.'' 
 
 From these facts Larrey argues, that cold is 
 not an exciting, but only a predisposing cause of 
 inflammation and gangrene ; a truth which Rich- 
 ter appears to have been well aware of, when he 
 observes, that cold alone, even the most intense, 
 will never produce chilblains. 
 
 In order to thaw a frozen part gradually, it is 
 best to rub it with snow, until sensibility and 
 motion return. 
 
 " If the ear, or tip of the nose, be the part 
 concerned, care must be taken to avoid breaking 
 it. When snow is not at hand, ice cold water 
 should be used instead of it. 
 
 k2 
 
132 TREATMENT OF PARTS 
 
 '' As soon as marks of sense and motion are 
 discerned, the frictions may be made with brandy, 
 or camphorated spirit of wine. It is then gene- 
 rally considered advantageous to let the patient 
 have some gently diaphoretic drink, such as a 
 little mulled wine, a basin of tea, &c. and he 
 may now be put to bed in a chamber where there 
 is a fire. 
 
 '^ In this situation he is to remain until he be- 
 gins to perspire, when a perfect recovery of 
 whatever sensibility may have been lost, gene- 
 rally succeeds. 
 
 " Where a part is almost in the state of gan- 
 grene, in consequence of sudden exposure to 
 sudden heat, sometimes its recovery may still be 
 accomplished by immersing it in water of a tem- 
 perature nearly as low as the freezing point. 
 The part must be kept immersed until the swell- 
 ing, pain, and marks of discolouration begin to 
 diminish, when frictions with brandy, &c. may 
 commence, and the warmth be gradually in- 
 creased. 
 
WHICH ARE FROZEN. 133 
 
 '^ This plan occasionally succeeds in almost 
 hopeless circumstances. '' * 
 
 So far have I quoted Dr. Cooper's valuable re- 
 marks on the ^' Effects of Cold," &c.; and have 
 witnessed the practice he recommends, as being 
 effectual; for during my servitude in the navy, I 
 belonged to his Majesty's ship Majestic, while 
 cruizing off" the coast of North America, in the 
 memorable and severe winter of 1814, where we 
 had many cases of seamen being frost-bitten in 
 the hands : immersing them in cold water was re- 
 sorted to, and generally attended with success. 
 
 The peons in the Cordillera adopted a differ- 
 ent custom, which I have never before seen 
 practised, that is, by merely applying the hand 
 (which may be supposed to be pretty cold in 
 those regions) to the part affected, and there 
 keeping it without friction, till the circulation 
 returns. This simple plan, I am inclined to think 
 a very good one, as the caloric from the hand is 
 evolved into the affected part very gradually, till 
 '* Cooper on the Eftects of Cold. 
 
134 ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS. 
 
 they both become of the same temperature. 
 Before the traveller enters into the high moun- 
 tainous districts, where the cold winds are so 
 piercing and injurious to the constitution, it 
 would be well for him to wear a complete suit of 
 flannel next the skin, covering the arms even 
 down to the wrists, and the legs to the ancles ; 
 some medical men recommended soft leather 
 to be worn under the flannel, but for my own 
 part, I prefer it over, having tried both, and 
 found the latter method by far the warmest. 
 
 Begging the reader's pardon for making such 
 a breach in my journal, I shall now proceed again. 
 It came on to blow a heavy gale, and the sight 
 of one of our peons fast began to fail him. 
 
 Tuesday 2lsf. Waked the peons up before 
 daylight, in hopes of getting the loads up the 
 Cumbre or summit of the Cordillera this day; 
 but owing to so much time being occupied in 
 drying and putting on our snow-shoes, it was 
 nearly eight o'clock before we started, it blew 
 a gale of wind, with thermometer down ]4" 
 
SNOW STORM COMES ON. 
 
 135 
 
 below the freezing point. We immediately 
 commenced a steep ascent, the snow laying 
 hard and slippery, consequently very dan- 
 gerous ; on arriving at the top of it, another 
 most stupendous mountain lay before us, all 
 a mass of snow, and as slippery as ice; the 
 gale blew tremendously, and snow began to 
 fall. Such masses were swept from the top 
 by the force of the wind, that it was utterly im- 
 possible to face it. When it came to this, our 
 peons' courage began to fail them ; it was evi- 
 dent a snow-storm was coming on, and it was 
 our most anxious object to get on to the next 
 casucha, situated at the foot of the Cumbre; so 
 that we might be ready to start over as oppor- 
 tunity offered ; for when once across, the descent 
 becomes so very rapid, that all fear of being 
 overtaken by storms is at an end ; at least, they 
 are easier to be escaped from, and this casucha 
 being only a league and a half from us, it was 
 very desirable we should reach it, particularly 
 
136 DESERT OUR LUGGAGE. 
 
 as a change of the moon was taking place, and 
 we feared much for the weather. 
 
 My companion understanding the language 
 much better than I did, urged all in his power 
 to prevail upon them to push forward : stating 
 our scanty stock of provisions, how easy it 
 would be to get over when once at the foot. We 
 even set the example by advancing up ourselves, 
 but all to no purpose ; they crouched under the 
 lee of some rocks and would not move. The 
 storm increased, and the snow came down in 
 clouds, sufficient to blind us, so that, at last, we 
 were obliged to leave all our luggage to the 
 mercy of the storm and make a precipitate re- 
 treat back again to the casucha. 
 
 These hovels, miserable and wretched as they 
 truly are, prove to the storm-driven traveller, in 
 the dreadful dreary regions of the Andes, a most 
 welcome resting-place. Tliere are eight of them 
 in the highest parts of the Cordillera ; they are 
 built of brick, at au elevation of about ten feet 
 
DESCRlPirON OF THE CASUCHAS. 137 
 
 from the ground^ and average fourteen feet by 
 twelve inside ; once they had doors^ but neces- 
 sity^ that stern mother of invention, instigated 
 some perishing travellers to burn them, in order 
 to supply the want of that necessary article fuel^ 
 which is not even to be seen during winter in 
 the Cordillera. The very cross-beams were burnt, 
 so that it was impossible to keep out the perish- 
 ing cold air. Added to this, there were nine holes 
 to admit the light, wliich various travellers had 
 taken the greatest pains, (now the want of a door 
 admitted it,) to stuff up with any old rags, bricks, 
 or stones, they could find; and proving that 
 even these were not easily procured, they had 
 pulled the bricks from out of the wall, and off 
 the outside of what, at one time, was a flight of 
 brick steps to ascend by, but which are now so 
 delapidated, as to render it a task to clamber 
 up into the interior, so that in a few years, if no 
 means are taken to repair them, even these mi- 
 serable abodes for the shelter of man will tumble 
 to pieces. 
 
138 DESCRIPTION OF A SNOW STORM 
 
 To view the storm from these dreary abodes 
 as it passes by, is dismal and awful in the ex- 
 treme. I have witnessed a hurricane in a desert — 
 shipwreck — fire and storms at sea — but no- 
 thing can equal the terrific, awful appearance of 
 a snow storm in the Andes. 
 
 As we sat shivering in the casucha, the moun- 
 tains, from being so close to us, appeared a wall 
 of snow, their tops joining as it were in one mass, 
 with the clouds of snow flying around us. In 
 vain did I look for a dark spot to rest my painful 
 eyes upon, tracing the mountains all round, from 
 the base to their summits ; wandering again 
 over heaven and earth, all— all appeared a world 
 of snow, picturing desolation itself; the miser- 
 able casucha alone standing in the midst of it. 
 The wild wind whistled through its many aper- 
 tures, shaking its very foundation, and roared 
 and cracked in the mountains above us, that were 
 continually sending down large masses of snow 
 that would fall with a dense awful noise, threat- 
 ening destruction to every thing beneath that 
 
IN THE CORDILLERA OF THE ANDES. 131) 
 
 might come within its reach. Pent up here, 
 while the storm is howling and roaring around, 
 the traveller cannot move without, but must 
 wait with humble submission to the will of " Him 
 who alone can still its raging/' and on whom 
 alone he can safely rely for a happy release from 
 such an awful and dreary situation. 
 
 From the effects of the piercing high wind, 
 we were all affected with sore eyes. Our pro- 
 visions now became a great source of anxiety ; 
 however, the poor peons submitted (should the 
 storm last) to go on very short allowance. Here 
 again we found that the arreiro had deceived 
 us, in not having laid in a supply according 
 to his agreement; but more of him hereafter. 
 Our stock of wine and spirits was reduced to 
 one bottle of brandy. The storm continued the 
 whole day, and in the night increased to a per- 
 fect hurricane. As may be supposed, it proved 
 a most anxious and dismal one to us ; the ther- 
 mometer was 15" below the freezing point. 
 
 *• In the conquest of Chili, many of the Spa- 
 
140 SEVERITY OF THE COLD. 
 
 niards were frozen to death sitting on their 
 mules, in crossing- the mountains tliat divide 
 Chili and Peru. Acosta says, his friend the 
 general Jerome Costilla, of Cusco, lost several 
 of his toes in passing over the desert of Chili, 
 in going from Peru. They were so perished by 
 the severity of the air, that when he came to 
 look on them, they were dead ; and fell off with- 
 out any pain, ^ even as a rotten apple falleth 
 from a tree.' 
 
 ^^ He says, this general formerly conducted a 
 large army over these mountains ; and that he 
 left a considerable number of the soldiers dead 
 there, who were killed by the baneful cold winds 
 that constantly blow in those regions. On the 
 generaPs return from his expedition, he found 
 the dead bodies lying scattered about, but quite 
 entire, and without scent or putrefaction. Near 
 to the place where the dead bodies were, he 
 found a boy, who had survived his miserable 
 companions that remained behind, unable to 
 proceed on the expedition. This boy had ex- 
 
SEVERITY OF THE COLD, 141 
 
 isted in a cave, skreened fi'om the winds ; and 
 fed on the flesh of the horses that perished 
 there with the troops/'* 
 
 Many instances occur of the peons losing their 
 toes and fingers in the Cordillera : one of ours 
 had lost two of his toes, and the arreiro the first 
 joint of one of his fingers. The peon who car- 
 ried the news of the battle of Ayacucha from 
 Chili to Buenos Ayres in the extraordinary time 
 of eight days, was in the following winter caught 
 in a snow storm and nearly perished : he lost 
 all his toes. As it was so extraordinary a journey 
 to be performed in so short a space of time, 
 (when he arrived at Buenos Ayres,) they thought 
 him an impostor, and put him in prison ; but he 
 was soon released, and most handsomely re- 
 warded. During my stay at Santiago, I went 
 to see him, when he described his toes as 
 having dropped off without feeling. I regret 
 
 * Extract from Moseley's Work on " Tropical Climates." 
 
142 SEVERITY OF THE COLD. 
 
 much not recollecting his name ; but he was as 
 fine and handsome a man as I ever saw in 
 my life, and is well known by all the English 
 merchants. 
 
143 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 storm abates — Proceed — Fiud our Luggage buried in Snow 
 — Cross over Natural Bridges of Snow — Arrive at the Foot 
 of the Cumbre — Magnificent Appearance — Description of 
 the Ascent — Arrive at the Summit — Puna, or Difficulty of 
 Breathing — Descend immediately — Deserted Goods laying 
 in the Cordillera — Terrific Descent of the Cuesta de Con- 
 cual — Method of Descending — Meet our Peons from Chili 
 — Clear the Snow — Feelings at the Time — Arrive at a 
 Deserted Guard-house — Alto del Soldado, or Soldier's 
 Leap — Arrive at the Valley of Aconcagua — Chilian Ladies 
 — Valley of Quillota — Arrive at Valparaiso — Advice to 
 Travellers — Table of Thermometrical Observations. 
 
 August ^Znd. It pleased God to abate tlie 
 storm, and the morning proved fine, but the wind 
 still high, with thermometer at 30". We started 
 early, and commenced ascending the tremendous 
 mountain of snow before us ; every track was 
 
144 APPEARANCE OF THE CUMBRE. 
 
 covered, and we found our luggage half buried 
 in the snow. On arriving at the top, we des- 
 cended a little, and crossed the river Los Orcones 
 over a natural bridge of snow, which in some 
 places we could perceive was ten feet thick. 
 After two hours' labour, we arrived at the casucha 
 situated at the foot of the Cumbre, where we 
 halted to take some refreshment and prepare for 
 our arduous undertaking. The sight of the Cum- 
 bre was grand, awful, and magnificent ; running 
 up into the clouds, a height of at least two thou- 
 sand feet, one pure mass of snow, without the 
 slightest print of any thing upon it. All was as 
 smooth as glass ; and as the sun reflected its rays 
 full upon this mass of purest virgin white, it gave 
 it all the dazzling appearance of an enormous 
 mountain of alabaster, and the little casucha was 
 surrounded on all sides by huge mountains co- 
 vered with pure snow from top to bottom. 
 
 The Cumbre does not show the whole of its 
 height, so that the traveller winds round and 
 round by angular cuts, in order to gain more 
 
ASCENT OF THE CUMBRE. 145 
 
 easily its mighty summits.* At ten we com- 
 menced ascending by angular cuts across the 
 mountain, making some long and others short, 
 according to its steepness. The snow was not 
 so hard as we expected, which so far secured 
 us a surer footing ; but it was distressing to see 
 the poor peons sinking into it above their knees, 
 the mountain silence broken only by their cries, 
 which echoed them back again most mournfully. 
 The sun reflected so powerfully on the dazzling 
 white, and the wind blew so keenly down upon 
 us, that I began now to fear my sight would fail 
 me. My companion had crossed one winter 
 before, and after reaching the summit of the 
 Cumbre, was led down the opposite side quite 
 blind, and remained so for several days. Then, 
 he was only two days in the snow ; this was our 
 fourth ; but, thank God, that awful calamity 
 was spared me. Our ascent increased to that 
 degree of steepness that in many places we were 
 obliged literally to crawl sideways on our hands 
 
 * See the representation. 
 
 L 
 
146 ASCENT OF THE CUMBRE. 
 
 and knees; once or twice I looked down, and 
 the sight absolutely astonished me ; some were 
 very far behind, and looked such perfect pig- 
 mies, that I could scarcely believe 1 was such a 
 height above them ; and then to look at those again 
 that towered high above myself, made me feel 
 lest, by one false step, they might come tumbling 
 down and precipitate me upon those beneath, who 
 were too deeply employed looking for a secure 
 footing for themselves, to think of any one else. It 
 was certainly an awful height to look from, and 
 I half regretted doing so, as it made me feel for 
 the security of those above, which before I never 
 thought of, beingtoo much engaged about my own. 
 We were four hours and a half at this dis- 
 tressing labour before reaching the summit. 
 Those poor peons who arrived first, looked down 
 upon the others and neighed for joy, in imitation 
 of the mules. Here was a cross erected on the 
 very summit, to the memory of some peons who 
 perished in a storm at the commencement of a 
 severe winter, having been overtaken before 
 
ARRIVAL AT THE SUMMIT. 147 
 
 they could reach the casucha_, which is not more 
 than a quarter of a mile distant. The day was 
 beautifully clear and fine ; but high wind, which 
 the rarefied atmosphere rendered piercingly cold. 
 The thermometer stood at 34". On the top is a 
 small flat, but the view is still bounded by moun- 
 tains of eternal snow, where human foot has 
 never trod. I picked up a few stones, and did 
 not fail to think of those fiiends in Eng-land to 
 whom I had promised to bring some memento 
 from the summit of the Cordillera of the Andes. 
 As I had heard the puna, or difficulty of breath- 
 ing, so much spoken of, and so much dreaded 
 by travellers, I paid particular attention to it, 
 and cannot say that I felt any more inconve- 
 nience than I should have done, in undergoing 
 such a continued labour, even had it not been 
 at such an elevation. All I felt was great thirst, 
 which I partially allayed by eating the snow as 
 I ascended the mountain; but strange to say, 
 instead of alleviating, this only irritates it, and 
 it was a long time before we got to water, for 
 
 l2 
 
148 EFFECTS OF THE PUNA; 
 
 the want of wliicb, we were all very mucli dis- 
 tressed; however^ my not feeling the puna is 
 no criterion that others should not^ for it has 
 been severely felt by many travellers. 
 
 Acosta crossed the Andes in 1580;, at the pas- 
 sage of Pariacaca in Peru. When he arrived 
 
 o 
 
 at the top, he says : " I was seized with so 
 mortal and strange a pang, with straining and 
 vomiting, that I thought to have cast up my very 
 heart ; for having vomited up meat, phlegm, and 
 choler, both yellow and green, in the end I 
 cast up blood." He says, that many have lost 
 their lives in this manner, and that not only the 
 passage of Pariacaca, but also the ridge of 
 mountains which runs above five hundred leagues 
 through Peru and Chili, produce the same effects ; 
 but in no place so violently as Pariacaca. Of 
 four gentlemen also whom I saw, that had crossed 
 the Andes by way of the grand pass of Uspal- 
 lata, three informed me, that they felt this strange 
 sickness in a very severe degree. 
 
 Acosta says, the air over these mountains de- 
 
OR DIFFICULTY OF BREATHING. 149 
 
 stroys vegetation ; the grass is often burnt and 
 black with it. " That it is not so sensible as 
 piercing. It quencheth the vital lieat; yet it 
 doth not corrupt, or give any putrefaction to 
 dead bodies. The best remedy against its in- 
 fluence is, for people to stop their noses, their 
 ears, and their mouths, as much as may be ; 
 and to cover themselves with clothes, especially 
 the stomach; for that the air is so subtle and 
 piercing, that not only men feel this alteration, 
 but also beasts, that sometimes stay there; as 
 no spur, or beating, can make them go for- 
 ward."* 
 
 On my return across the Andes in December 
 1827, I found the mules frequently stop to 
 breathe, especially going up the Cumbre, where 
 they stopt at every turning of the zigzag path, 
 as if affected in the lungs, when from experience 
 I found, as Acosta observes, that " no spur, or 
 beating, could make them go forward," till they 
 went at their own pleasure ; but this is not appli- 
 
 * Lib. iii. cap. 9, 
 
150 EFFECTS OF THE PUNA. 
 
 cable to the Cumbre, or highest parts of the 
 Cordillera only, for in many places did they stop 
 as if from an afiection of the lungs, and not from 
 the labour of climbing. The same was the case 
 with many of the peons that would at times 
 walk, for they would stop and cry, " puna! puna!" 
 then mount again; and they appeared also to 
 know the spots where they would feel it, if on 
 foot, for they frequently remarked, " Aqui esta 
 mucha puna." " There is much puna here." 
 I could only attribute this to there being mineral 
 in those spots, which might more or less have 
 affected the air, which had some influence on the 
 lungs. 
 
 Our descent commenced immediately, for the 
 peons have great dread of remaining on the 
 Cumbre, which is seldom so clear as we found 
 it. Another cross close by, pointed out the spot 
 where some unfortunate wretch had perished. 
 Speaking of the descent, we came to it imme- 
 diately : it was a very steep mountain, looking 
 down about six hundred feet, and I was asto- 
 
DESCENT OF THE CUMBRE. 151 
 
 nished to see the peons unload, and quietly put 
 their luggage before them, then sitting down, 
 away they went sliding the whole way to the 
 bottom, laughing and enjoying it very much. 
 I cannot say that I liked it quite so well ; but it 
 was too steep to walk down without running the 
 chance of tumbling head over heels, so I even 
 sat down to try what I could do. At first it 
 was all very pleasant ; but when my velocity in- 
 creased, so as to lose all command over myself, 
 I began to regi'et undertaking what I knew no- 
 thing at all about, for the peons can guide them- 
 selves with their hands any way they please. 
 This was beyond my ability to comprehend, 
 although I know very well how to steer a ship, 
 it puzzled me much how to apply that know- 
 ledge to myself. However, I arrived safe at the 
 bottom, when on looking up, and seeing others 
 follow me with the greatest velocity, was cer- 
 tainly astonished at the feat I had performed. 
 We were now in a valley walking over a river 
 that was covered with snow. Innnense mountains 
 
152 DESERTED GOODS FOUND 
 
 ran up on each side of us, not more than a hundred 
 yards apart, covered from top to bottom with 
 the purest white, not a spot or footstep to be 
 seen upon either. The sun's dazzling rays re- 
 flecting full upon them was very distressing to 
 our eyes. We arrived late at the miserable Ca- 
 sucha de Calaveras, which appeared like a black 
 speck upon the pure white around. We did 
 not perceive it until close upon it, and no won- 
 der, for it was surrounded by a perfect wall of 
 snow eight feet high. We could not get other 
 water than snow here, although there is a stream 
 and large lake, Laguna del Inca, close to it; 
 but both were frozen over and covered with 
 snow. In this miserable abode there were four 
 bales of goods that had been left, and deserted 
 in a storm, showing plainly the severity of the 
 season ; and there they would remain till the 
 Cordillera opened, as safe as if in the owner's 
 stores. Instances have been known of goods 
 beins: deserted and buried in the snow for the 
 whole winter, and afterwards found untouched. 
 
IN THE CORDILLERA. 153 
 
 We were all much tired this day, having per- 
 formed a tremendous journey of four leagues 
 and a lialfl, including an ascent of upwards of 
 three, and descent of two thousand feet. 
 
 Thursday, 2Sd. We started very early, with 
 a fine morning, being determined to push on as 
 fast as possible, for fear of the weather changing : 
 our descent became so rapid, that we were 
 running half the time. At the distance of a 
 league came to a cross, erected to the memory of a 
 companion of one of our peons, who perished last 
 winter under circumstances exactly similar to 
 those our young lad was saved from. At three 
 leagues came to the Cuesta de Concual. This 
 was a dreadful descent, leading down to an aw- 
 ful depth below, with the river running at the 
 bottom, but a very short distance to the right. 
 It was really terrific to look down ; and I am 
 speaking within the opinion of many whom I 
 have consulted on the subject, when I say, that 
 it was at least eleven or twelve hundred feet, in 
 a direct descent; in all parts so steep, that there 
 
154 CUESTA DE CONCUAL. 
 
 was no possibility of standing ; many parts were 
 also hard and slippery, and how to get down 
 this was now our task, which I should never have 
 thought in the power of human beings to accom- 
 plish, had I not witnessed it and done it myself: 
 so little are we aware what we are capable of 
 performing, till brought to the trial. 
 
 I stood and gazed with w^onder, scarcely be- 
 lieving it possible they would attempt it. How- 
 ever, the loads were cast off. and away they flew, 
 tumbling and sliding down like lightning. Our 
 beds went into the river, and were soon swept 
 out of sight. Then the peons prepared, and 
 laying themselves flat on their backs, with their 
 arms and legs extended, to my utter amazement, 
 they flew down one after the other, with the 
 swiftness of an an*ow, guiding themselves clear 
 of the river, although going down with such ve- 
 locity ; one turned, and rolled once or twice head 
 over heels, then round and round like a ball, till 
 he reached the bottom without the slightest in- 
 jury. Now, I thought this would never do for 
 
■ ]n)IE§(C]EIOD]rKr(K- THE CITIESTA BE C (OK C UATL , 
 IIJ'T TMF. CdDRBmrXEHA (D)F TlHt'B AT^BES^ILN THK WlNTKM ©F 1827. 
 
TERRIFIC DESCENT. 155 
 
 me, so 1 waited to see how my companion would 
 manage. He approached the brink, and working 
 a hole first to rest his heel in, thrust his stick 
 half way in the snow, so that it might support 
 him to lower himself down a little, and then dig 
 another hole. In this manner he went down the 
 very steepest part, and then let go, and slid the 
 rest in a sitting posture. Now came my turn : 
 I commenced with the plan of my companion, 
 but finding it so very steep, and not liking the 
 hanging posture by one arm, I acted more se- 
 curely, but was much longer about it; first 
 working a hole with my stick, and putting my 
 heel in it ; then working another hole, and putting 
 the other heel in, thus seeing my way clearly be- 
 fore me ; and having a footing of both feet at a 
 time in a sitting posture, while I worked myself 
 steps with my stick, till I passed the steepest 
 part : then I let go, laying flat on my back, 
 and went down with amazing velocity, a dis- 
 tance of five hundred feet. Coming down this 
 place occupied me nearly two hours ; but, I would 
 
156 MEET OUR PEONS FROM CHILI. 
 
 not have let go on the steepest part for all the 
 gold and silver in the mines of Peru. 
 
 Descending at this rapid rate^ it may be ima- 
 gined^ caused a great change of temperature; 
 for, as we advanced, we found the snow getting 
 softer, consequently our labour greater, sinking 
 in some places far above the knees. At length 
 we met our peons from Chili, who had horses 
 and mules for us at the foot of the snow, which 
 they informed us, extended within a league of 
 La Guardia. Still pushing forward, we arrived 
 at the horses, and cleared the snow about four 
 P.M. very much fatigued. 
 
 The sensation of relief to the eyes, and tread- 
 ing on terra firma, can scarcely be described ; 
 and the sight of the horses, being the only 
 living creatures we had seen for five days, can 
 only be imagined by those who have felt it. 
 As there were not mules sufficient to carry us 
 and our luggage, my companion and I mounted 
 the horseSj leaving every thing behind but our 
 wet beds, under the care of two of the peons ; 
 
CLEAR THE SNOW. 157 
 
 we very soon came to green shrubs, to rest 
 our wearied eyes upon, and nature again ap- 
 peared in her smiling aspect, cheering us up 
 to prosecute our journey. One of the passes 
 on this side had also given way, owing to a 
 heavy fall from above. The broken part of the 
 mountain showed five distinct lines of strata, as 
 perfect as if they had been painted : I picked 
 up the different specimens of each. The cargo 
 mule on passing this ladera, slipped, and rolled 
 down the mountain into the bed of the torrent, 
 two hundred feet beneath, and cut its hind legs 
 in a dreadful manner. 
 
 As the sun went down, we arrived at La 
 Guardia, the first habitation coming out of the 
 Cordillera; but such had been the severity of 
 the winter, that it was deserted : neverthe- 
 less, finding ourselves safe out of the dismal 
 Cordillera, it proved a most welcome and cheer- 
 ing habitation to us; and it was with the purest 
 feelings of gratitude I lifted my heart to God 
 for his gracious protection and preservation to 
 
158 ARRIVE AT DESERTED GUARD HOUSE. 
 
 me through all. On unpacking our beds, we 
 found they were completely soaked through ; it 
 was rather a hardship, to have to lay upon the 
 bare ground after such a hard day^s journey of 
 seven leagues over deep and heavy snow. 
 
 Friday, 2^th. Fine morning; arose with 
 sore bones and stiff' limbs, occasioned by yester- 
 day's exertion, and sleeping on the ground. Our 
 peons started at daylight for the luggage that 
 was left at the foot of the snow. I could scarcely 
 credit the mild temperature of the morning, 
 the thermometer stood at 45". Having now 
 mules and horses, we started at ten, very mucfi 
 to the delight of the poor peons, who were re- 
 lieved of their loads. Our descent was still 
 rapid, between a ridge of mountains, with the 
 river on our left. The country on this side very 
 soon assumed a cheerful appearance ; evergreen 
 bushes, much resembling myrtles, and some very 
 fine trees peculiar to this country, with many wild 
 peach-trees in blossom, showed that the genial 
 warmth of a Chili spring was fast advancing. As 
 
ARRIVE AT LOS LOROS. 159 
 
 we proceeded^ the country grew richer in appear- 
 ance, with most beautiful scenery, richly wooded, 
 and very prolific in little wild mountain flowers, 
 of various colours, delighting the eye as we 
 passed ; and the aromatic odour proceeding from 
 the algaroba, with numerous birds of varied 
 plumage chirping around us, (the first of ani- 
 mated nature we had seen since leaving Uspal- 
 lata,) gave a buoyancy to our feelings truly 
 delightful; in fact, it all appeared perfect en- 
 chantment, and I could scarcely believe it pos- 
 sible, that only the day before, I w as in the dreary, 
 dismal, frozen regions of the Cordillera: many 
 times did I look back to gaze at its awful mag- 
 nificence, in order to convince myself of the fact. 
 At two P. M. aiTived at Los Loros, the first in- 
 habited abode since leaving Uspallata, a period of 
 eight days. It is a miserable building of rushes; 
 but most romantically situated in a green valley 
 by the side of the river Aconcagua, where moun- 
 tains run up on each side to an awful height, \ 
 their summits covered with snow. We got some 
 
160 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 
 
 excellent milk, fresh from the cow; and while 
 enjoying it under the shade of a tree, (for the 
 thermometer now stood at 84° in the sun,) 
 flocks of parrots were hovering over our heads, 
 shrieking out their discordant notes ; but which 
 was music to my ears, as it reminded me that I 
 was further removed from the dreary regions. 
 As we descended, the velocity of the torrent in- 
 creased, also the beauty of the scenery,, many 
 places having all the appearance of a gentleman's 
 park. As we wound out of these, to round the 
 sides of some of the tremendous mountains, the 
 roaring torrent lay beneath us, and on the oppo- 
 site side were many cascades, falling and roaring- 
 down the sides of the mountains, in many places 
 a perpendicular height of 600, 800, and 1000 
 feet. We passed El alto del Soldado, or 
 the Soldier's Leap, which is a most remarkable 
 gap in a huge mountain, as if it had been reft 
 by an earthquake, with a torrent rushing through 
 it, emptying itself into the river. It is famed 
 (so report says) for a deserter having leaj)ed 
 
VALLEY OF ACONCAGUA. 161 
 
 over it, when being hard pressed by his pur- 
 suers; but I very much doubt the truth of such 
 report, for it is at least twenty feet broad. 
 After crossing a deep and rapid stream, we ar- 
 rived at a few miserable huts ; but the cultivated 
 spots proved that the active hand of industry 
 was much more conspicuous in Chili than on the 
 eastern side of the Cordillera. After the most 
 beautiful and romantic day's ride I ever enjoyed 
 in my life, we arrived late in the valley of Acon- 
 cagua, twelve leagues from La Guardia, where 
 we were hospitably entertained at the Estancia 
 of a gentleman named Don Patricia. 
 
 Saturday, 2bth, was a lovely morning. Found 
 that our situation was in a beautiful plain well 
 laid out in plantations, and situated close at the 
 foot of the Andes. Our host proved to be the civil 
 governor of the town of St. Felippe, four leagues 
 from hence, through which place lay our road. 
 He was polite enough to accompany us and in- 
 troduced us to his family, where we remained 
 dinner. Though every thing was excellent and 
 
 M 
 
J 62 CHILIAN LADIES. 
 
 good it was still in that same comfortless style 
 as at Mendoza ; only here the party not being so 
 largC;, the dishes came on separately, and each 
 person helped himself. On leaving this town, 
 we passed many Chilian ladies on horseback, 
 dressed in all the colours of the rainbow. They 
 wore round hats of silk, with gay feathers ; 
 their pillions were adorned with red, yellow, and 
 blue pieces of cloth cut out in the shape of 
 diamonds; the horse's head-piece and reins 
 were covered all over with small square pieces 
 of silver. Besides these ornaments, the blue 
 saddle-cloth had a red border, with large red 
 tassels attached to it. We now crossed the rapid 
 river and entered the delightful plain of Santa 
 Rosa,* where much fine hemp is grown. The 
 industrious inhabitants were employed threshing 
 it, and in some places spinning it into yarn, and 
 making rope. We continued travelling very 
 late this night. After passing over several 
 steep cuestas, and crossing many rapid torrents 
 
 * The river Aconcagua separates the plain of Santa Rosa 
 from the valley of Aconcas^ua. 
 
VALLEY OF yUILLOTA. 163 
 
 in the dark, we arrived at ten o'clock at the 
 village of Ocao, very much to the astonishment 
 of the civil hostess, who got out of bed and very 
 goodnaturedly made us some supper. 
 
 Sunday, ^Qtk. Started again at daylight; 
 wishing, if possible, to get into Valparaiso 
 before night. After travelling some distance 
 through the beautiful valley, we ascended a very 
 steep cuesta, from the top of which was a most 
 lovely view. On the left lay the beautiful and 
 fertile valley of Quillota, bound in the distance 
 by undulating hills, covered with rich verdure, 
 with many spots laid out in fine plantations. On 
 our right we looked down upon the plain of Santa 
 Rosa, laying at our feet like a map, with the rapid 
 river winding its serpentine course till it was lost 
 sight of, by turning round the mountains in the 
 distance, over which was again seen the mighty 
 snow-capped Cordillera. We descended into the 
 valley of Quillota, and passed through the town 
 just as the inhabitants were coming out of 
 church. The ladies' taste for black, (churcli dress 
 
 m2 
 
164 TOWN OF QUILLOTA. 
 
 in South America,) gave them a very sombre 
 appearance, particularly as they cover their 
 heads with a large shawl of the same colour. 
 It was singular to observe the contrast of the 
 great huge stirrup of Chili, which was a mere 
 large block of wood, with a hole hollowed out to 
 rest the foot in, while those of the Pampas were 
 the smallest triangle of bent wood, just sufficient 
 to admit the great toe. We stopped at the end 
 of the town to bait our horses and mules, and 
 proceeded on again, through the plain, till five 
 o'clock, when finding the mules so very tired 
 that it would be impossible for them to reach 
 Valparaiso that night, we procured a guide 
 for ourselves, and left them in charge of our 
 arriero to follow the next morning. To give an 
 idea of the natives' calculation of distance, the 
 guide informed us that we were only two leagues 
 from the Port,* but to our mortification we found 
 it full five, and a very bad road ; having to cross 
 over torrents, rocks, and precipices; the conse- 
 quence was ray companion's horse knocked up, 
 * Valparaiso. 
 
ARRIVE AT VALPARAISO. 165 
 
 and it was ten o'clock at night before we reached 
 Valparaiso : thus making thirteen days from the 
 time of leaving Mendoza ?* The first thing that 
 struck my attention was the enormous length of 
 the town, with the mountains close behind the 
 houses ; in fact, touching their backs, which made 
 it appear dark and dismal: then the guardians of 
 the night first blowing a whistle, the same as a 
 boatswain on board a ship, and chauntingthe hour 
 of the night. The next circumstance in direct 
 opposition to what appeared so decidedly foreign, 
 was, on enquiring where the fonda or hotel was 
 situated, we were asked if we could speak 
 English. I took up my abode at a house kept 
 by Mr. French, which was a very good one ; and 
 after taking some refreshment, the cleanest and 
 best I had tasted since leaving Buenos Ayres, 
 I was heartily glad to get to bed. 
 
 Having thus performed the arduous task of 
 crossing the whole continent of South America, 
 during the most severe winter that had been 
 * Got sight of the Pacific at 8 o'clock, P.M. 
 
166 ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS. 
 
 known for many years, I shall endeavour, in the 
 event of this journal falling into the hands of 
 any travellers who may have to undertake the 
 same journey, to point out to them a few ne- 
 cessary hints that may prove of some service. 
 In the first place, then, in preparing for crossing 
 the Pampas, should they carry luggage, I would 
 strongly recommend portmantuas, of equal size 
 and weight, averaging about seventy-five pounds 
 each; the bed is then laid between these two, 
 which does not distress a horse, a bag may also 
 accompany them with a few necessaries for the 
 journey, such as sugar, mate, tea, &c. Bread 
 may always be procured in the course of a day 
 at some of the post-houses, therefore there is no 
 necessity for a traveller to incommode himself 
 with more than one day's supply. The peon, 
 who acts as guide, will always carry a small 
 velice, containing a change of linen and shaving 
 materials for the journey, and this is all a tra- 
 veller ought to take who wishes to go comfort- 
 ably and not incommoded; his portmantuas 
 
ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS. 167 
 
 above all things ought to be sewed up in hide, 
 for it may easily be supposed they will cut and 
 chafe a good deal in a journey of one thousand 
 three hundred miles ; for the want of this, mine 
 were cut literally through, damaging my clothes 
 in the inside : and last not least, a steady peon 
 must be engaged at Buenos Ayres, to act as 
 servant ; and I would recommend, if going to 
 Chili, to engage him for the whole way. So 
 much for the Pampas : the Cordillera requires a 
 little more circumspection, especially in the win- 
 ter. On arriving at Mendoza it is customary to 
 engage an arriero or guide of the mountains, 
 whose place it is to supply mules and peons to 
 carry over the luggage ; as I have before stated, 
 ours deceived us; in the first place, not having 
 peons sufficient, next, very little provisions, and 
 thirdly, not having his charcoal made according 
 to agreement, before leaving Mendoza; which 
 was the cause of detaining us one day and two 
 nights at Uspallata, and so very true is it, that 
 delays are dangerous, that this one day proved 
 
168 ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS. 
 
 SO to US, for we should have passed the Cumbre 
 before the snow storm came on, consequently 
 saved that day; and it so happened, that the 
 day of the night we arrived in Valparaiso, a 
 vessel sailed for Lima, therefore we missed that 
 chance, and had to wait nine days for the sailing 
 of another. I merely mention this to show what 
 may be the value of one day on some occasions, 
 particularly as the natives of South America 
 have no idea whatever of the value of time ; 
 therefore, to proceed, I would advise, before 
 leaving Mendoza, for the traveller himself to see, 
 that every thing is provided by the arriero ac- 
 cording to agreement, and not to take his word 
 for it, for if he does, he will be sure to deceive 
 him, then to lay in his little stock of comforts 
 which are necessary for the Cordillera. All I 
 can say on this subject is, that he wants every 
 thing for the time he is likely to remain there ; if 
 winter, twenty days' provisions is not too much, 
 for it will be too late to regret not having laid 
 out a few extra dollars when the storm overtakes 
 
ADVICE TO TRAVELLERS. 169 
 
 hira, and shuts him up in one of those miserable 
 casuchas for seven or eight days. And now, in 
 taking leave of the traveller who may visit 
 these dreary regions, he must not be alarmed at 
 hearing of the deaths of so many of the poor 
 miserable peons, for they are the most improvi- 
 dent people in the world, and think of nothing 
 till the moment it is wanted, two of ours were 
 without hats, and one of them was absolutely 
 without a jacket. When I first started, I fully 
 expected on rising some morning to have found 
 one or two of them frozen to death, and it is only 
 astonishing how they can stand the severity of 
 such changes of temperature in the manner they 
 do. As I had never seen a register of the ther- 
 mometer by any travellers who had crossed the 
 Andes, and thinking it might prove very interest- 
 ing, I took the greatest pains to ascertain the 
 temperature as correctly as possible, which I 
 here give in a table, in order to have it in one 
 view. 
 
170 
 
 DIFFERENCE OF TEMPERATURE. 
 
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DIFFERENCE OF TEMPERATURE. 171 
 
 By the annexed table it may plainly be seen, 
 that there is a great diflference of temperature 
 between the eastern and western sides of the Cor- 
 dillera of the Andes, although there is always 
 much more snow on the western or Chili side, 
 than on the eastern or Mendoza side. I can 
 only account for this difference by the preva- 
 lence of the SW". wind, which is received on 
 the Chili side before passing over the snow; 
 whereas on the Mendoza side, having to pass 
 over an immense track of snow, it always blows 
 down the mountains piercingly keen; look, for 
 instance, at the difference of temperature be- 
 tween the 20 ^A and 23rof, when we were about 
 equal distances from the Cumbre on the differ- 
 ent sides. I do not take the 21st as a criterion, 
 because on that day it blew a dreadful storm. 
 See also the difference between sunrise and sun- 
 set, at Mendoza and Valparaiso. 
 
172 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Description of Valparaiso — Effects of the Earthquake — Leave 
 Valparaiso — Arrive at Callao — Entrance to Lima — Lima 
 Ladies — Robbers — Robberies and Murders — Description of 
 a Temblor, or Shock of an Earthquake — Dress of the Ladies 
 of Lima — Description of a Religious Procession — Leave 
 Lima — Island of Juan Fernandez. 
 
 The town of Valparaiso consists of one long 
 street, facing the sea, with the high hills so close 
 behind it, that the houses in many places touch 
 them, except in the Almendral, where it branches 
 off into two streets. Here still remained the ruins 
 of the church that was shook down, during the 
 memorable earthquake of the 19th of November, 
 1 822, at half-past ten at night. Many of the in- 
 habitants sought refuge in it, and were buried in 
 its ruins. The castle, also, which is situated at 
 the other extreme end of the town, (called the 
 
LEAVE VALPARAISO. 173 
 
 Port,) shared the same fate, and was at this 
 time having its ruins cleared away for building 
 upon. We found the dreadful effects of the 
 winter had been severely felt at Valparaiso. 
 The wrecks of three fine vessels lay strewed on 
 the beach, having been driven from their anchors 
 in a heavy gale of wind from the northward, 
 which sends the sea sweeping into the bay with 
 great fury, being open to northerly winds. 
 Twelve hands perished on board one of them, 
 in sight and hail of thousands of persons assem- 
 bled on the beach, who could do nothing to save 
 them. The population of Valparaiso is immense. 
 To look at the town, no person could imagine it 
 was half so great ; but when the quebradas or 
 hills are looked into, (which lay above the town,) 
 swarming with wretched hovels, and population 
 of the lowest description, astonishment no longer 
 exists. It has been estimated from sixteen to 
 eighteen thousand souls. 
 
 Tuesday, September ^th. Having engaged a 
 passage on board the Orion Merchant Brig, that 
 
174 ARRIVE AT CALLAO. 
 
 was going down light to Lima, I embarked at 
 three in the afternoon, when we got under weigh 
 with a very light wind. On clearing the land, 
 we had a strong breeze from the southward, 
 which held till we came off the coast of 
 Peru ; which was very barren, shewing the 
 Giant Andes towering in the distance ; it 
 then fell light, and continued so until our arrival 
 on the 16th, making the passage in twelve days. 
 The thermometer averaged 65° on the Chili 
 coast, with thick hazy weather, and 72° on the 
 Peruvian, with very light winds. 
 
 Directions for running into Callao Bay. — 
 There are two ways of entering into the Bay 
 of Callao, either the southward or northward ; 
 the southward is called the Boqueron passage, 
 and is very convenient, coming along shore 
 from that quarter ; it may be passed with the 
 greatest safety, by paying proper attention to 
 the marks ; which are, when you are in between 
 the island of Fronton, (which is high, and lies 
 off" the south-east end of St. Lorenzo,) and the 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR RUNNING INTO THE BAY. 175 
 
 Horodada Rocks, which are in the Bay of Chor- 
 rillas, easily known by the largest having an arch 
 through it. These rocks and a sandy beach, or 
 gap inside of the point of the Morro Solar in 
 one, will lead a ship through the fair channel 
 between the island of St. Lorenzo and Callao 
 Point; the course is about N.W. ^ W. by com- 
 pass, and in the shallowest part there is three 
 fathoms water. Don't haul in to the eastward 
 until the Martello Towers bear E. f N. ; several 
 accidents have happened by not paying proper 
 attention to this. 
 
 To enter to the northward of the island, no- 
 thing more is requisite than to haul close round 
 and steer direct for the shipping, which lie about 
 E. by N. by compass ; only don't approach too 
 close to the west side of the island, as a heavy 
 swell sets in against it, and it is very apt to fall 
 calm. 
 
 The Boqueron passage was little frequented 
 until Lord Cochrane took a frigate through it, the 
 largest vessel that ever passed. On landing at 
 
176 ENTRANCE TO LIMA. 
 
 Callao, which is a miserable dirty town, the re- 
 mains of the late siege were plainly visible, by 
 many shot-holes through the houses, fort, and 
 churches, which are not yet repaired. After visit- 
 ing the governor, Rivero, a complete weather- 
 beaten old gentleman, we procured horses, and 
 started for the city of Kings, along a road which 
 looks well to the eye, but miserably bad and 
 stony, being composed of loose sand and stones, 
 running in a direct line for Lima, which is nine 
 miles from Callao. About a mile from the en- 
 trance of the city, we entered the Alameda, or 
 Public Walk, formed by double rows of trees 
 on each side of the road, between which was the 
 promenade, with benches for the accommodation 
 of the public. The first object that met my view 
 on entering, was a lady sitting astride on horse- 
 back, with a beautiful pair of silver spurs on the 
 smallest feet I ever saw. I cannot say that I 
 was shocked, for she sat most gracefully; but 
 turning round, dreadful to behold, I saw two 
 elegant females — how shall I utter it — smoking 
 
LIMA LADIES. 177 
 
 cigars ! tlien the sayo and iiianto* met my view, 
 so that altogether the most striking novelties 
 appeared to exist in the ladies ; and I cannot 
 say that I admired any one of them, either sitting 
 astride on horseback, smoking through a pretty 
 pair of lips, or an elegant figure shown to its 
 every turn by the sayo and manto. Rich and 
 various were the colours of these latter dresses ; 
 but I could not help comparing them to walking 
 mummies, instead of the fairer part of the 
 creation. 
 
 Passing by these groupes of one-eyed mum- 
 mies, we entered the gates just as the oration 
 bell toWecl— one. In an instant all was as silent 
 as death; our horses stopped as if by instinct ; 
 all heads were uncovered till the prayer was 
 over, which occupied about two minutes, and was 
 made known by the toll of a third bell, when 
 all was animation again, and onward we pro- 
 ceeded till our arrival at the house of Mr. W. 
 
 * For a description of this dress see page 183, 
 
 N 
 
178 ARRIVE IN LIMA. 
 
 P. R. where I remained, for the night, being too 
 late to get to the inn. 
 
 The following morning I sent to Callao for 
 my luggage which had a narrow escape from 
 being stopped by robbers that were on the 
 road, looking out for an expected booty. For- 
 tunately for me, mine was not their object, but 
 what they v/ere waiting for came up while it was 
 passing, which was six thousand dollars, belonging 
 to Messrs. PfeifTer and Hesterberg, going to be 
 shipped at Callao. The robbers, six in number, 
 were well armed ; they murdered the peon and 
 got clear off with the whole. 
 
 During my short stay at Lima, I was so much 
 occupied with the business I went upon, that 1 had 
 no time for making many observations on that 
 famed city; but I certainly cannot help expressing 
 that I felt much disappointment, for it is, w ithout 
 exception, the dirtiest in South America — filth, 
 dirt, and rubbish are to be seen in the streets all 
 day long ; and the servants, who are principally 
 slaves, will come to the stream of water that runs 
 
ROBBERfES AND MURDERS. 179 
 
 through the middle, and wash fish, and various 
 utensils, leaving the entrails on the sides, rotting 
 in the sun, until they are devoured by immense 
 large birds, called turkey-buzzards, that are 
 constantly to be seen devouring the various nui- 
 sances with which the streets are infested. 
 
 I had been in Lima but a month, when I re- 
 ceived orders to return to England. This put a 
 check to all those observations which I was most 
 anxious to make ; but at the time I left, the 
 country was getting in a dreadful state of alarm. 
 Bolivar being expected, had thrown all Lima 
 into confusion, and by some parties a revolution 
 was hourly expected; all capable of bearing 
 arms were enrolled in the militia, none excused 
 excepting under the ages of sixteen and above 
 fifty. The preparations that were making to op- 
 pose his entrance, appeared to lay everything else 
 aside ; business was at a stand, government in 
 suspense, one party scarce knowing how to trust 
 the other, armed bodies of banditti were fear- 
 lessly infesting the public roads, cojumitting 
 
 n2 
 
180 BOBBERIES AND MURDERS. 
 
 murders and robberies every day with impunity. 
 During my short stay, three murders were com- 
 mitted, and innumerable robberies. Mrs. Wal- 
 ker, who kept the inn, was stopped on the Cal- 
 lao road, in company with a gentleman, by two 
 robbers, who stripped them of every thing, and 
 taking the gentleman's horse from him, he was 
 obliged to mount up behind the lady, and in 
 that situation they entered Lima. Mr. Kelly, 
 the vice-consul, was stopped by two robbers, 
 who felt an inclination for his horse, when, in 
 endeavouring to make his escape from them, 
 they fired two shots at him, one of which tore 
 away his coat, and grazed the skin from under 
 his arm. 
 
 [ went to see the body of a gentleman who 
 was dragged from his wife while in bed, and 
 murdered in the next room to her; he had four- 
 teen stabs in his body, and appeared to have 
 made a desperate resistance, for several chairs 
 were broken, and parts of them covered with 
 blood and hair. It appears he used them to 
 
TEMBLOR, OR SHOCK OF AN EARTHQUAKE. 181 
 
 defend himself. Shortly after this, two French 
 gentlemen were murdered on the Callao road, 
 and strange to say, no steps were ever taken to 
 find out the perpetrators of these horrid crimes ; 
 they passed quite unheeded by the government 
 as if nothing had happened ; indeed it was quite 
 dangerous to walk the Alameda, or public walk, 
 after dusk, for so many robberies had been com- 
 mitted there during broad daylight. The Eng- 
 lish and other foreigners would never ride out 
 excepting in parties of five or six, and then they 
 were always well armed. During my short stay, 
 Lima was visited by several temblores, or earth- 
 quakes, one of which was very severe, and oc- 
 curred in the evening, when the streets were 
 full of people. In my life I never experienced a 
 sensation more awful — a noise resembling thun- 
 der was underneath my feet — the earth shook 
 and trembled — a sickly sensation came over me, 
 and I was nearly knocked down by men, women, 
 and children, flying out of their houses, scream- 
 ing '' Temblor, temblor!" and running to and 
 fro in all directions. Some lay down on their 
 
182 DESCRIPTION OF A TEMBLOR, 
 
 faces ; most of the men were kneeling, and cross- 
 ing themselves^ and praying to their saints for pro- 
 tection. Children were clinging to their mothers, 
 and screaming with all their might; the dogs 
 howled most piteously, and crouching among the 
 crowd, seemed to ask for protection ; the horses 
 stood trembling with affright, with their riders 
 kneeling by their sides, and the birds fluttered 
 about in the air as if their wings were useless.* 
 After three successive shocks, a death-like si- 
 lence prevailed, and every one appeared rivetted 
 to the spot where they stood. All heads were 
 uncovered, and the different attitudes of stand- 
 ing, kneeling, and laying, impressed me with 
 feelings which I think will never be erased from 
 my memory. This shock happened on October 
 30th, and was registered by many as being the 
 smartest ever felt without doing damage or 
 causing the loss of lives. 
 
 The depravity of morals at Lima is prover- 
 bial. The disgusting dress of the females in a 
 
 * The effect these shocks have upon all animals and birds 
 is very surprising-. 
 
DRESS OF THE LIMA LADIES. 183 
 
 great measure speaks to the fact. I call it dis- 
 gusting, because it was the first impression I 
 felt on seeing it, and that impression was not 
 worn off when I left, although many of my coun- 
 trymen were in raptures with it and termed it 
 elegant. Time might have worn off this first 
 impression ; still, it cannot constitute the fact 
 of its being elegant, when it takes so long a time 
 to become reconciled to it. I mention this 
 merely because those very gentlemen who now 
 admire the dress, admit themselves that at first 
 they experienced a little revolt at it. 
 
 As I am not singular in thinking this dress 
 disgusting, I shall here give an extract of a let- 
 ter from a lady to her friend in the United 
 States, taken from a New York paper, wherein 
 it is much better described than I could do it. 
 She says, " A most singular and disgusting 
 dress is worn by the females of Lima in the 
 streets, called the ^ sayo y manto ; ' it is peculiar 
 to, and is worn only by them. It consists of a 
 petticoat of silk or bombazine, laid in fine plaits 
 
184 DRESS OF THE LIMA LADIES. 
 
 and drawn together underneath with silk ; they 
 are so thickly laid that the dress is elastic, and 
 defines the figure as nicely as possible ; this is 
 confined in a binding, just large enough to hook 
 round the waist, and reaches to the ancles ; they 
 are generally black or brown, but the lower 
 classes wear them of lighter colours, much orna- 
 mented with lace and pearls, A black silk man- 
 tle, or thick elastic guaze, is then tied round the 
 waist, and drawn up behind over the head 
 like a hood or fi^iar's cossack, concealing the 
 arms, and so held by the hand as to completely 
 hide every part of the face except one eye. It 
 is worn as our pelisses, over the ordinary dress, 
 and is not only inelegant, but extremely indeli- 
 cate ; it forms such a perfect mask, that no man 
 knows his wife or daughter, and affords such a 
 disguise that the females go where they please, 
 even at night, without fear; and it is a good 
 comment upon the extreme laxity of morals, 
 which is said to prevail in all classes of society/' 
 In doors, the ladies are very untidy ; in the 
 

 'Tdi %C.',i i^"^ n 
 
 AJLAIDY iW LIIM^ JIM niEB. WAILMBNCG- IDiyESSo 
 
 ^mM'fi liyXi^urBfwiif.It I^K 
 
 Md» hyM<Wfum .J^ufc^.^n(y Z2S2S 
 
DRESS OF THE LIMA LADIES. 185 
 
 iiioriiing I have found them, what in England 
 
 would be called very slovenly and dirty, lolling 
 
 on a sofa^ with a morning gown carelessly put 
 
 on, and loosely tied round the waist, half open 
 
 behind, showing a petticoat none of the cleanest ; 
 
 between the opening of that also sometimes the 
 
 bare back might be seen. They never wear 
 
 stays, and their front hair would be in paper, 
 
 without cap or handkerchief over their head, 
 
 hanging down behind in one or two long tails ; 
 
 on their feet a pair of dirty faded silk stockings, 
 
 with a pair of dirty fine old satin shoes down at 
 
 heel, which frequently showed a few holes in the 
 
 stockings. A shawl is then carelessly thrown 
 
 over their bare neck and shoulders ; and in 
 
 this elegant costume do they loiter away the 
 
 whole day, never dressing till evening, which 
 
 is their time for receiving visits, or going out 
 
 shopping. Their appearance at Church in the 
 
 sayo and manto is very curious. As chairs are 
 
 not allowed, the ladies are all squatted on the 
 
 floor in the centre, to which part the gentlemen 
 
186 DRESS OF THE LIMA LADIES. 
 
 dare not approach, and the appearance of up- 
 wards of a hundred or so of these figures with 
 their heads entirely covered with the black man- 
 to has a very gloomy effect, which is not dimi- 
 nished by the sombre silence which reigns 
 throughout the immense buildings for hours to- 
 gether unbroken, save by the occasional move- 
 ments caused by some of these figures stalking 
 along the aisles, either for the purpose of joining 
 the devotional groupe, or departing from the 
 gloomy scene. 
 
 In walking it is also very striking, for they 
 are seldom accompanied by a gentleman, and 
 never take the arm ; their march is very stately, 
 generally following each other in pairs, and with 
 only one eye just peeping out, although I have 
 used the comparison before, I never could meet 
 them without thinking of walking mummies. 
 
 They have a very pretty custom at Lima of 
 presenting a stranger with a rose on his first 
 entering their houses, accompanied with the 
 Spanish compliment of "esta casa esta a su 
 
MEN OF LIMA. i 87 
 
 disposicion" — this house is at your disposal or 
 disposition. During my stay in the city I had 
 many roses presented to me by some of the love- 
 liest and fairest of its daughters. There is very 
 little social intercourse amonsgt the families ; petty 
 jealousies being carried very high. On this ac- 
 count foreign residents associate very little with 
 them. "A u contraire^" at Buenos Ayres : there the 
 intercourse is very gTcat^ and the society very 
 agreeable^ which the many intermarriages that 
 have taken place plainly proves. The men of Lima 
 appear to be a different race from all others I 
 met with in South America, for they are dirty and 
 indolent to an amazing degree: smoking from 
 morning till night. Having frequent occasion 
 to attend the public offices, I always found them 
 filled with smoke, and the floors disgustingly 
 dirty, from the continued spitting of the officers 
 and clerks. I have seen officers holding the high- 
 est situations sitting smoking at their desks with 
 a shirt on that would disgTace a chimney-sweep, 
 and their beards generally of a week's growth, 
 to say nothing of their hands, which are al- 
 
188 CLIMATE OF LIMA. 
 
 ways shamefully dirty ; when they appear 
 in the streets all this filth and dirt is covered 
 by a large Spanish cloak, thrown over their 
 shoulders in the true style of the country^ 
 muffled up to their eyes. 
 
 My stay in Lima was from the the 16th of 
 September until the 10th of November, which 
 are winter months, and allowed to be the most 
 unhealthy time of the year. It certainly never 
 rains at Lima, but the heavy dews which fall 
 night and morning are very prejudicial to the 
 health of Europeans, and may be compared to 
 what we call Scotch mists in England; they are 
 very apt to give cold, which if caught generally 
 terminates in tertiana.* 
 
 During these winter months, which are from 
 June till November, every thing in the houses 
 becomes very damp, and all iron or steel work 
 rusts. The baneful effects of this dampness may 
 in some measure account for the prevalence of 
 so much smoking, which is not confined to the 
 
 * A severe ague. 
 
PRIESTS OF LIMA. 189 
 
 men, the females indulging in it to almost an 
 equal extent ; no doubt to a certain degree it 
 may be useful, bnt carried to the excess it is, I 
 cannot but imagine it must be very prejudicial. 
 The average temperature of the thermometer, 
 during the whole of my stay, was 74'^ in the 
 shade at two P. M. 
 
 The priests in Lima are disgusting. Many 
 have I seen absolutely drunk in the streets ; 
 and I only wish this was the worst thing I had to 
 say of them. In their processions T have wit- 
 nessed scenes shocking to human nature. In 
 carrying the Virgin Mary through the streets, 
 twelve females, supposed to be virgins, are se- 
 lected to carry frankincense before her. These 
 women are now generally female slaves of the 
 very worst and most abandoned description.* 
 These women, as they proceed before the Virgin, 
 are screaming and hallooing with all their might, 
 
 * Formerly it was considered an honour for the daughters 
 of the first families in the place to carry the frankincense be- 
 fore the Virgin. 
 
190 DESCRIPTION OF A RELIGIOUS 
 
 at the same time throwing up the incense to her. 
 The priests are singing psahiis, and I have seen 
 them in many of these processions absolutely 
 drunk while singing their psalms ; and between 
 every verse laughing and talking, and even with 
 their arms round the waists of these females. 
 On the arrival of the Virgin at the church, the 
 scene becomes more like a riot than a religious 
 procession. Being once in a church when a pro- 
 cession entered, I could not imagine what in the 
 world was the matter ; such screaming, hallooing, 
 hooting, and roaring, as I never heard in my 
 life, was set up immediately the Virgin made her 
 appearance. Tlie boys outside were huzzaing, 
 and throwing fire-works within, which occasioned 
 a scene of tumult impossible to be described. 
 When this uproar had subsided a little, a beau- 
 tiful deep-toned organ vibrated through the many 
 aisles of the magnificent Santo Domingo, and the 
 finest sacred music I ever heard was chaunted 
 by the choir of singers ; between each ca- 
 dence had a pin dropped, it might have been 
 
PROCESSION AT LIMA. 191 
 
 lieard throughout the crowded church, whicli 
 but a minute before was all uproar and confu- 
 sion. Alas ! as I came away, I could not but 
 think what a mixture of frenzy, bigotry, and 
 mockery of religion was all this. 
 
 The average temperature of the thermometer 
 during the month of September was 67% in Oc- 
 tober 75% November, till the 10th, 80^ 
 
 On the lOtk of November, I embarked on 
 board the Volador, a little schooner under eighty 
 tons burthen, for Valparaiso, intending to cross 
 the Cordillera again, on my return towards 
 England. We sailed the same day. This little 
 vessel was swarming with cockroaches to that 
 degree, that at night the beams were literally 
 covered with them, and they (the beams) not 
 being ten inches above my head when laying in 
 bed, I usually found, on waking in the morning, 
 a dozen or so of these creatures crushed to death 
 between my sheets. 
 
 We held SE. winds till the 24th, before we 
 got into the variables, which drove us into the 
 
192 LEAVE LIMA. 
 
 long, of 93'^ W. On the 30f/i, saw the island of 
 Mas-afuera rising- out of the sea like a huge 
 black rock, its summits covered with clouds. 
 This island is called Juan Fernandez de Afuera^ 
 or Juan Fernandez Further Out, being about one 
 hundred and twenty miles to the westward of 
 that island. It is not inhabited, but is frequently 
 visited by sealers, on account of the numerous 
 quantity of seals there. During the night, we 
 passed within five or six miles of it, and the fol- 
 lowing day observed the island of Juan Fer- 
 nandez bearing E. by S. This is the island so 
 famed for the solitary residence of Alexander 
 Selkirk, whose history formed the basis of that 
 well-known and interesting tale of Robinson 
 Crusoe. As we neared the island, and passed it 
 about sunset, the captain pointed out to me the 
 spot which is marked out as the residence of poor 
 Robinson Crusoe. The weather was so thick 
 and hazy, that I could just perceive a change of 
 colour from the dark rocky appearance the whole 
 island bears as viewed from the sea; but it 
 
ISLAND OF JUAN FERNANDEZ. 193 
 
 abounds with wood, water, cattle, goats, and 
 pasturage. Lord Anson, in his voyage, speaks 
 of it as a little paradise, and made it his prin- 
 cipal rendezvous. The Chilian government for- 
 merly sent their convicts there; but withdrew 
 them in 1819, since which time it has remained 
 uninhabited, as the government shows no dispo- 
 sition to grant its protection to any one who 
 might undertake to settle there. 
 
 The sight of this island naturally brought 
 Robinson Crusoe to our remembrance, and led to 
 a conversation on the subject, when the captain of 
 the packet gave me a most interesting account of 
 two brothers attempting to settle on the island of 
 Mocha, a little further to the southward, in lat. 
 38° 30' S. long. 74'' W., and nearly opposite the 
 coast of Valdivia, which I think equally as in- 
 teresting ; and from being founded on facts, and 
 the parties well known in Chili to this day, I 
 shall here give it, just as it was related to me. 
 
194 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Affecting' History of two Brothers — Gale of Wind at Sea — 
 Arrive at Valparaiso — Leave Valparaiso — Description of a 
 Cuesta, with troops of Mules — Arrive at Santiago — Reports 
 of the unsettled State of the Pampas — Prepare for crossing 
 the Andes — Climate of Chili. 
 
 John and George Roberton, two brothers, 
 after buffeting about South America, trying va- 
 rious schemes to invest their little property to 
 the best advantage, decided upon settling at 
 the island of Mocha, with the intention of esta- 
 blishing a seal-fishery, and cultivating some parts 
 of the island, which is very prolific in its natural 
 produce, and by the labour of man might, from 
 its situation and capabilities, be made a little 
 paradise. 
 
HISTORY OF TWO BROTHERS. 195 
 
 With this object in view^ they procured four 
 others, adventurers like themselves, and pur- 
 chased a whale-boat, with all other things requi- 
 site for such an undertaking; they then freighted 
 a vessel, called the Valparaiso, commanded by a 
 Dane named L — s — n, for the purpose of carry- 
 ing them to their destination. When off the 
 island it fell calm, but being anxious to get on 
 shore, they left the vessel in order to prepare for 
 the reception of the venture which was to stock 
 their little kingdom, the captain promising to 
 land every thing as soon as he was close enough in. 
 Poor, unsuspecting fellows ! how little did they 
 dream of the disasters which awaited them. It 
 may easily be imagined, the golden prospects 
 they pictured to their imaginations on first 
 landing in those dominions, of which they were 
 the sole possessors, and the light hearts with 
 which they prepared to fix out a spot for the 
 reception of their goods, being their all in the 
 w^orld. After working like horses all the day, 
 they lay down to rest under the canopy of 
 
 o2 
 
196 HISTORY OF TWO BROTHERS. 
 
 heaven, trusting to rise with the sun and re- 
 new their labours. The clay dawned, — and the 
 sun rose — with it a fine breeze — but no vessel. — 
 No Valparaiso was in sight. Scarcely believing 
 what they saw, nor daring to utter what they felt, 
 they ran to the highest hills in the different parts 
 of the island in hopes of seeing her ; but in vain 
 did they stretch their longing eyes to catch a 
 glimpse of all their hopes. She was gone ! — 
 Nothing was to be seen round the boundless 
 horizon. Sea and sky was all that met their view. 
 The vessel was gone, and with her all their pros- 
 pects and golden dreams vanished. 
 
 In this forlorn situation, a consultation was 
 held as to what should be done, when it was de- 
 cided that one brother, with the crew, should 
 take the boat and cross over to the main land, 
 and, if possible, ascertain at Valdivia what had 
 become of the vessel and cargo. The other 
 brother was to remain behind to keep possession 
 of the island, and the few things they had landed. 
 George embarked with the crew, leaving John 
 
HISTORY OF TWO BROTHERS. 197 
 
 on the island; trusting that Providence might 
 protect them, they put to sea in their open boat, 
 and reached Valdivia in safety, a distance of about 
 thirty-five miles, where they soon learnt that the 
 Dane had landed, and spread a report of not be- 
 ing able to reach Mocha, that he had sold all their 
 property, and gone in the vessel they knew not 
 where — this was a death-blow to all their prospects. 
 Nothing now remained for poor George but to 
 convey this mournful intelligence back to his bro- 
 ther, whom it may be supposed was most anxi- 
 ously awaiting the result of his mission, inde- 
 pendent of anxiety for his personal safety. 
 
 They embarked again in their little boat, and 
 with most sorrowful hearts put out to sea, in or- 
 der to return to their solitary island : they had 
 not been many hours launched upon the deep 
 when the clouds began to lour, and the sea to 
 rise in troubled motion, which showed every in- 
 dication of a coming storm ; the wild gulls flut- 
 tered over their unprotected heads, and scream- 
 ing with aftright, seemed to confirm what their 
 
198 HISTORY OF TWO BROTHERS. 
 
 hearts foreboded — that the gale was near them. 
 Fierce lightning began to play about the black- 
 ened horizon, and the distant thunder roared 
 sullenly amidst the gathering clouds, seeming to 
 warn them not to proceed further. To fly was 
 now their only chance for safety : they turned 
 their little bark, in hopes of escaping — but the 
 cold wind reached them, * 
 
 It came resistless, and with foaming sweep. 
 Upturned the whitening surface of the deeji, 
 And swift, and fatal as the lightning's course, 
 Thro' the torn main-sail burst with thund'ring force. 
 
 The fury of the elements had overtaken them, 
 they scudded like the wind, till the raging storm 
 tore away her mast : — thunder, lightning, sea 
 and gale now came upon them, with redoubled 
 force. Their mast gone, she became unmanage- 
 able; a sea struck her, when she broached to 
 
 * When a ship is overtaken in a squall, the wind Ironi it 
 generally blows very cold. 
 
HISTORY OF TWO BROTHERS. 199 
 
 and filled ; another, and she foundered. Vain 
 were their struggles and cries for help, the 
 waters closed around them, and in sight of Val- 
 divia, every soul perished. 
 
 Poor George Roberton, thy sorrows are 
 over; but alas! where is thy brother? what is 
 he doing? where are his thoughts? Anxiously, 
 most anxiously awaiting thy arrival. '' Let 
 L — s — n read this and tremble/' The situation 
 of John Roberton on the island may be more 
 easily imagined than described; day after day 
 rolled on, and week after week; month succeeded 
 month, yet no brother appeared; wandering up 
 and down the island, straining his longing eyes to- 
 wards the horizon, pictming every speck a sail 
 to his bewildered imagination, thoughts would 
 intrude on his mind that harrowed up his soul, 
 and increased his anxiety almost to frenzy, till 
 he was reduced to that state of mind, by his own 
 account, that death would have been a release to 
 him. At last, while sitting at his daily station, 
 the pinnacle of a rock, absorbed in gloomy me- 
 
200 HISTORY OF TWO BROTHERS. 
 
 lancholy, a sail appeared ! Nearer and nearer she 
 came — she stood direct for the anchorage — a 
 boat left her, and landed. Thank heaven ! (he 
 cried^) it must be my brother, returned with all 
 our lost property. Breathless with anxiety he 
 flew down to the beach ; but picture his dismay, 
 when instead of finding his brother as he fondly 
 anticipated, he fell into the hands of a gang of 
 pirates — robbers — and murderers. " Read on, 
 L — s — n, read what thou hast been the cause of! " 
 They plundered him, stripped him, and made 
 him a prisoner. Thus, in the space of one short 
 quarter of an hour was this poor man, from be- 
 ing elated with the prospects of embracing his 
 brother, recovering all his lost property, and con- 
 ceiving himself restored to all that could make 
 him happy, doomed to hear of his brother's 
 death, his property irretrievably lost, all his 
 hopes on earth blighted, himself stripped and 
 plundered of all that remained, and a prisoner, 
 loaded with chains on board a pirate. So 
 far are the circumstantial facts of the history of 
 
HISTORY OF TWO BROTHERS. 201 
 
 these two unfortunate brothers. Shortly after- 
 warcls_, John found means of making his escape, 
 and is now a wanderer in Chili, said, from his 
 misfortunes, to have given himself up to drink- 
 ing, and almost to despair, which has brought on 
 temporary derangement, and which at times dur- 
 ing his fits of madness is dreadful. His only wish 
 appears to be revenge — deep and dire revenge 
 upon the author of his misfortunes. Poor fellow ! 
 may the Lord have mercy upon him, and save 
 him from committing the horrid crime which he 
 meditates. Revenge will come in time, for — " I 
 will revenge saith the Lord." 
 
 On the 2d December we had a heavy gale of 
 wind from the southward, with a very high sea 
 running. It increased with such violence as to 
 compel us to lay to under a close-reefed storm- 
 staysail. The Pacific was now certainly changed 
 to a most terrific appearance. The little schooner 
 mounted upon the waves and laboured at the 
 storm, seeming to be distressed at not be- 
 ing able to proceed on her voyage. Every 
 
202 HISTORY OP TWO BROTHERS. 
 
 plunge she gave sent the bowsprit and main- 
 boom alternately under water. Still she shewed 
 all the virtues of a beautiful little sea-boat, 
 now mounting up aloft, then plunging into the 
 abyss below ; 
 
 Now launching headlong from the horrid vale, 
 She hears no more the roaring of the gale ; 
 Till up the dreadful height again she flies, 
 Trembling beneath the current of the skies. 
 
 One sea struck her which smashed in the sky- 
 light, and, rushing down into the cabin, dis- 
 charged its whole contents into my bed-place, 
 setting the bed, bedding, and every thing else 
 floating about in all directions. The hatches were 
 now fastened down, and all below was total 
 darkness. On deck, the seas were making a 
 clear breach over her, and to hold on was the prin- 
 cipal look out of every one on board. To stand 
 or walk was impossible ; so all we could do was 
 to sit upon deck, lash a rope round our bodies, 
 and get quietly wet through to the skin. During 
 
HISTORY OF TWO BROTHERS. 203 
 
 the night the gale increased. Not a soul on board 
 could sleep from the fury of the storm and vio- 
 lent heaving of the vessel. Most of us passed 
 the night on deck without moving from the spot 
 where we had lashed ourselves for the space of 
 twelve hours : 
 
 No season this from duty to descend^ 
 
 All hands on deck the eventful hour attend. 
 
 Towards daylight next morning the gale abated 
 a little, and we bore up, but increasing at night, 
 we were compelled again to lay to, and expe- 
 rienced the same misery as before. On the 4:th, 
 (being near the land,) we were afraid to bear up 
 till we got our observation at noon, which prov- 
 ing satisfactory, we made sail, and soon came in 
 sight of it, but while running along, with a fresh 
 gale, at the rate of nine knots an hour, to our 
 astonishment and mortification, (fully expecting 
 to get in, being within seven miles of the shore,) 
 it almost instantaneously fell calm, with a heavy 
 ground-swell setting us directly for the rocks. 
 
204 ARRIVAL AT VALPARAISO. 
 
 which placed us in a very dangerous situation, as 
 we were fast driving upon them, but fortunately 
 about eight o'clock the wind came on again with a 
 thick fog, which increased to a gale more violent 
 than ever, so that we were compelled to stand 
 out once more, and lay to with our head off shore. 
 This night proved worse than all ; and most mi- 
 serable and wet did we pass it. 
 
 The whole of the next day (the 5//z,) till noon, 
 was a thick fog, so that we could not run ; after 
 that time, the sun cheered us with its presence, 
 and the fog clearing away, we found the land close 
 under our lee. We instantly made all sail, and 
 ran into the bay of Valparaiso, absolutely on our 
 beam ends, nmch to the astonishment of hundreds 
 of people, who were looking at us rounding the 
 point, which, after clearing, strange as it may 
 appear, when inside the bay, (owing to its being 
 so entirely sheltered by high mountains,) it was 
 a dead calm. 
 
 About noon we anchored, making a long and 
 disagreeable passage of twenty-five days : the 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING THE BAY. 205 
 
 thermometer at sea this clay stood at 50^^ ; in 
 Valparaiso Bay it rose up to 75° in the shade. 
 
 Slight directions for running into Valparaiso 
 Bay. 
 
 To enter Valparaiso from the month of Au- 
 gust till April, it is most advisable to make the 
 land to the southward of the port. The first 
 thing to make sure of, is the latitude, as any 
 marks are difficult to distinguish, even by per- 
 sons who are well acquainted with the port, 
 the mountains assuming so many different forms 
 from their different bearings. The White Rock 
 is easily known, standing prominent from the 
 beach, about fifteen miles to the southward of 
 Corramilla Point. This last has some high 
 peaked rocks off it, and is itself of a round hil- 
 lock-like form. On rounding it, Valparaiso 
 Point is easily distinguished to the E. N, E. all 
 clear, only a rock above water, which will be 
 seen on rounding into the bay, where the ship- 
 
•i06 LEAVE VALPARAISO. 
 
 ping will point out a berth. In the three winter 
 months, which are May, June, and July, or any 
 time when abreast of the bay to the westward, 
 it may be known at a distance by bringing the 
 high bell-shaped mountain of Quillota to bear 
 E. half N. by compass, which will lead direct in 
 for the bay. The water is deep to the beach all 
 round, and no danger but what 1 have men- 
 tioned. 
 
 At Valparaiso, I was in hopes of finding a 
 fellow-traveller to cross the Cordillera ; and was 
 informed that a Captain G. of the Navy was 
 at Santiago, only waiting for a companion, 
 having delayed his journey on account of a re- 
 port being in circulation that the Pampas were 
 infested with monteneros. This I had not before 
 heard, therefore, was anxious to see him as 
 soon as possible : so, after arranging my affairs, 
 I left Valparaiso on the 8//^ December. A 
 friend accompanied me as far as Casa Blanca, 
 a distance of twelve leagues, where we got very 
 good entertainment, it being a most excellent 
 
ARRIVE AT BUSTAMENTK. 207 
 
 house. I was rather astonished to find, stuck up 
 on a board before one or two houses on the 
 road, " Ale and porter sold here." It served to 
 remind me, that it must be pretty well fre- 
 quented by my own countrymen. Next morn- 
 ing at daylight, ray friend and I took a cup of 
 coffee together and separated, he for Valpa- 
 raiso, and I for the capital of Chili. Being now 
 left entirely alone, I began to reflect on the 
 state of the Pampas ; and, if I should miss 
 Captain G. what was to be done? However, 
 there was no alternative ; Indians, or no In- 
 dians, monteneros or not — go, I must. So, I 
 pushed on to overtake my peon, whom I had 
 sent forward with my luggage, and about noon 
 arrived at Bustamente, a house of refreshment, 
 where I had the finest asado of mutton I ever 
 tasted. After taking my siesta, I proceeded on 
 again at three, and soon arrived at the second 
 cuesta,* which took us an hour and a quarter to 
 ascend. On arriving at the top, it blew a gale 
 
 * Cuesta signifies, a steep ascent. • 
 
208 DESCRIPTION OF A CUESTA. 
 
 of wind, accompanied with rain, from whence we 
 had a view of the Andes, enveloped in black 
 clouds, where, it was very evident, there was a 
 severe temporal, or Snow storm. 
 
 To look down these cuestas when at the top, 
 is a most beautiful sight; the height, I should 
 imagine to be about one thousand feet ; and the 
 whole way up are beautiful zig-zag paths, each 
 about two hundred feet in length ; so that you 
 may look down and count fifteen or sixteen of 
 them at a time. While I was enjoying this 
 view, a troop of mules were ascending, and 
 another descending : they amounted in all to 
 about three hundred ; as they met, it was beau- 
 tiful to see the peons keeping their own troops 
 separate from each other ; for viewing them from 
 the height above, they appeared to be running in 
 all directions ; and when separated, it was impos- 
 sible to tell whether they were coming up or 
 going down, for they were all in contrary direc- 
 tions, according to the zig-zag paths tliey had 
 taken. Night overtook us, and it turned out 
 dark and rainy : my peon entertained me with 
 
ARRIVE AT SANTIAGO. !209 
 
 tales of ladrones or thieves, that were always, 
 (he said,) very numerous thereabouts. He did 
 it, no doubt, to amuse me, but certainly might 
 as well have dispensed with them on such 
 a dark and dreary road. He was continually 
 cautioning me to keep my pistols in readiness, 
 and kept as close to my side as he conveniently 
 could. On entering the city of Santiago, it was 
 so dark, that I could not absolutely see my 
 horse's head ; and as it was raining hard, some 
 of the stones had been taken up to let the water 
 run off. Those who have been at Santiago, know 
 well the danger of these places; into one of them 
 my horse fell, and coming right on his broad- 
 side, with my left leg under him, I verily thought 
 it was broken, for the animal struck his head 
 against the wall of a house, and so did I, which 
 stunned me for the moment ; but on recovering 
 myself, I found that I had received no further 
 damage than a sprained ancle and broken spur. 
 At ten I arrived in Santiago, wliere 1 was kindly 
 received by Mr. Cameron; here I heard ot 
 
 p 
 
210 REPORTS OF THE PAMPAS. 
 
 the unsettled state of tlie Pampas^ and that Cap- 
 tain G._, to whom I was introduced, had taken his 
 passage for Rio Janeiro, in a French man of 
 war; Colonel Tupper and Mr. Caldcleugh, in- 
 formed me that it would be dangerous to cross 
 at the present time, for the monteneros had been 
 connnitting great depredations, so much so, that 
 two hundred troops had been sent from Men- 
 doza to scour the country. In this state of things 
 I was in a very awkward predicament ; time be- 
 ing of the greatest importance to me, any deten- 
 tion would have been of the most serious conse- 
 quence. I therefore made up my mind to cross 
 the Cordillera and learn at Mendoza, whether it 
 was possible to proceed or not ; if not, to recross 
 the Andes again immediately, when I might ar- 
 rive at Valparaiso time enough for the first 
 English man-of-war, that was to sail, about 
 the 12^/? of Ja?i?iarf/ ; so accordingly I commenc- 
 ed making every necessary preparation for my 
 journey. 
 
 During my short stay in Chili, I found the 
 
CLIMATE OP CHILI, 211 
 
 climate very oppressive ; there is a peculiar dry- 
 ness in the atmosphere which prevents a free 
 perspiration, rendering the skin parched and 
 dry, which occasions restless nights, loss of appe- 
 tite, and depression of spirits ; and although it 
 is not reckoned an unhealthy place to live in, yet 
 it is particularly requisite to be guarded over the 
 constitution, and not indulge too freely in the 
 pleasures of the table. It is impossible to drink 
 strong wine without sensibly feeling its effects, 
 and spirits taken iu that country to any excess, 
 may be truly called '^ poison to the soul." God 
 help the man that takes to drinking spirits in such 
 a climate ! However small the quantity he may 
 commence with, it will be sure to gain upon 
 him from habit ; every succeeding glass will re- 
 quire an additional stimulus, till at last the sys- 
 tem becomes so enervated, that he finds it im- 
 possible to do without it ; a train of awful con- 
 sequences follow, till hypochondriasis is the con- 
 sequence : the fatal delusion is then indulged in, 
 
 p2 
 
212 CLIMATE OP CHILI. 
 
 which only aggravates the malady and brings on 
 a train of nervous symptoms^ which usually ter- 
 minate in madness, and in many instances, sui- 
 cide. This is a woeful picture, but nevertheless 
 a true one — many melancholy instances of this 
 sort have been witnessed in Chili, Valparaiso, and 
 Buenos Ayres, and occured to parties who were 
 highly respectable. When last at Buenos Ayres, 
 two English gentlemen came under my own ob- 
 servation, labouring under temporary derange- 
 ment occasioned by drinking, which pernicious 
 vice they had indulged in because their affairs in 
 business turned out unfortunate. I also saw an 
 instance of attempted suicide while at Valparaiso. 
 I can safely say, that never have I seen the 
 pernicious effects of drinking spirits, more 
 awfully visited than at these places. What 
 may be the cause of it I will leave for those 
 more competent than myself, to judge. A 
 writer on Buenos Ayres says, ^^it has often 
 been observed that we feel the effects of free 
 
CLIMATE OP CHILI. 21^ 
 
 drinking here more than in England ; I have 
 experienced this more than once, and thought it 
 peculiar to myself, till others complained of the 
 same/' * 
 * Five Years Residence in Buenos Ayres, by an Englishman. 
 
214 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 T^eave Santiago — Bad road — Arrive at Santa Rosa — Drunken 
 Courier — Lay in Provisions for the Cordillera — Leave Santa 
 Rosa — Enter the Andes — Remarks on Travellers — First 
 Night in the Andes — Description of El Alto del Soldado — 
 La Guardia de los Hornillos — Second Night in the Andes — 
 Ascent of the Cuesta de Concual — Ascent of the Curabre — 
 Vievsr from the summit of the Cumbre — Descent of the 
 Cumbre — Method of Crossing rapid Rivers — Lose two 
 Mules in a River — Description of the Inca's Bridge — De- 
 scription of the Cordillera Lions — Third Night in the Andes. 
 
 December, 1th. Having engaged the courier 
 and a trusty Peon, I left Santiago very early in 
 the morning, accompanied out of the town by 
 my friends Messrs, Cameron and Smith, who 
 shortly after, wishing me a prosperous journey, 
 left me solitary and alone, once more to cross 
 
LEAVE SANTIAGO. 215 
 
 the wild regions of the Andes. I must say that 
 I felt the dreariness of my situation in not having 
 a companion to speak to ; but as 1 have before 
 observed, I had no alternative : duty, and not 
 inclination prompted me to undertake such a peril- 
 ous journey : for where is the man that would 
 choose to travel across the wild Pampas and Cor- 
 dillera of the Andes, without a friend or compa- 
 nion to cheer him on his solitary journey. There- 
 fore I do not wish to claim a merit for under- 
 taking that which I could not possibly avoid. 
 
 The road from Santiago is most miserable, no 
 refreshment of any sort whatever can be procured : 
 travelling on with my peon as far as Colina,* 
 I waited till the courier came up, whom J found 
 was quite drunk. A pretty fellow this, thought I, 
 to trust myself with over the Cordillera. At noon. 
 I stopt from the heat of a burning sun at a most 
 miserable rancho, where I had an asado of mutton 
 without bread or salt. A wide difference, again 
 thought I, from the excellent fare to be had on the 
 
 * A miserable village consistiiisr ot oiilv a tew miirl huts. 
 
216 ARRIVE AT SANTA ROSA. 
 
 road from Valparaiso to Santiago. I proceeded 
 on again at one, with the thermometer standing at 
 90°, and soon came to the cuesta of Chacabuca, 
 which took us an hour to ascend. On arriving at 
 the top, the plain of Santa Rosa opens with a 
 very fine view, descending into which, and tra- 
 velling on a tolerable good road, I arrived at the 
 village of Santa Rosa at half past seven, thus 
 riding twenty-five leagues * on the same horse 
 without drawing the bit. What would people in 
 England say to this ? 
 
 Santa Rosa is a small village situated at the 
 foot of the Andes, where it is customary to 
 stop, in order to prepare and lay in every thing 
 that is requisite previous to entering the Cordil- 
 lera. There is no fonda or inn at the place, so 
 that I was from necessity compelled to put up at 
 the house of the courier, who proved to be a very 
 worthless fellow ; however, having a very good 
 peon and understanding myself pretty well what 
 was required for such a journey, I did not 
 * These leagues were very sliort. 
 
DRUNKEN COURIER. 
 
 217 
 
 need his assistance ; it only serves to prove what 
 I have before stated, how necessary it is to 
 be very particular in engaging these men, for 
 had I not had a very good peon, and known my- 
 self what was requisite, I might have been half 
 starved in the Cordillera for all he cared about it. 
 The next day was occupied in making prepa- 
 rations for entering the Cordillera, such as laying 
 in chaqui, bread, mate, sugar, onions, &c. &c. 
 all which articles may be procured at this place ; 
 I had a sheep killed and put on the top of the 
 cargo, preferring fresh meat as long as possible 
 to dried chaqui. About four in the afternoon, 
 after the heat of the day was gone off, the mules 
 were brought out and loaded ; picking out the 
 best from amongst a very bad set, and having 
 every thing ready to start, on looking for the 
 courier I found him again drunk, and not at all 
 prepared. I now strongly suspected that he had 
 no intention of going, and told him I should 
 write to my friends at Santiago, who would 
 represent his conduct to the governor, which 
 
218 LEAVE SANTA ROSA. 
 
 might probably lead to the loss of his situation 
 as a government courier, which he was : on 
 this he brushed up, and started with me. His 
 house being at the extreme end of the village, 
 we soon commenced our ascent by the side of the 
 river Aconcagua, which was tearing down the 
 mountains with amazing velocity, sweeping rocks, 
 stones, and every thing before it. On coming 
 to the first bridge, we found it washed away ; 
 proceeding on about a league further, cross- 
 ed over the second bridge, where I should 
 say, the river was running through, at the rate of 
 ten knots per hour, a great difference from the last 
 time I crossed it, when I passed through the river 
 itself; but, at that time the snow (being in the 
 depth of winter) had not began to melt. 
 
 We continued our course by the side of it, until 
 dark came on, and then put up at a miserable ran- 
 cho on its banks ; here I missed the courier, and 
 found that an old man was going instead of the 
 one I had engaged ; and that I was put under the 
 charge of a boy. This proceeded from the evil 
 
ENTER THE ANDES. 219 
 
 of paying all that was due to him before start- 
 ing, and which is a very bad plan. I would 
 strongly advise travellers never to pay them more 
 than one half, agreeing to pay the other half on 
 ai'riving at their journey's end; which is the 
 usual method of paying them, and was accord- 
 ing to my agreement, but he plagued me so much, 
 and I, never suspecting his intention was to 
 leave me, paid him the whole. However, I got 
 on very well with the boy, and it has served as 
 a lesson for me, how to treat with them in 
 future. The next morning, the 19M, we were 
 up by daylight ; the peons were in search of the 
 stray mules, and I took my mate, while flocks 
 of parrots were screaming high over my head : as 
 the sun rose, and reflected its rays on the enor- 
 mous mountains around us, some of whose 
 summits were here and there tipt with snow, 
 our situation reminded me of the view which a 
 certain traveller gives of Villavicencia ; but he 
 acknowledges that his views were taken from 
 memory. Certainly, in this instance, his me- 
 
220 REMARKS ON 
 
 mory must have been very treacherous, more 
 particularly about the " Inca's Bridge ;'' for he 
 gives a view of two casuchas as being seen from 
 it, whereas it is impossible to see one. The tem- 
 perature of the warm springs, were also given 
 from memory or guess, which happened to be 
 only about thirty degrees from the mark. But 
 my object is not to criticise any traveller, other- 
 wise, I should have enough to fill a volume on 
 those who have already written on South Ame- 
 rica — this is merely a journal of facts, written on 
 the spot at the time, with the various feelings 
 which I at the moment possessed ; but when J 
 see views given which never existed, dangers 
 described which are all imaginary, and circum- 
 stances set down that would lead any traveller 
 astray, I cannot help here and there making a 
 cursory remark upon them. For instance, one 
 traveller in his journal, describes his first sight 
 of the Andes as follows : it must be recollected, 
 he was at this time one hundred and seventy 
 miles off'. " We were gratified on the Tih 
 
VARIOUS TRAVELLERS. 221 
 
 April, by our first sight of the Cordillera of the 
 Andes. Nobody can imagine the effect the 
 view of this stupendous barrier of mountains 
 produces on the traveller. I discovered it quite 
 by accident ; for, while the peons went for 
 horses, our time was spent in rambling in the 
 neighbourhood. At last, my eye was caught by 
 what appeared, on a transient glance, to be sta- 
 tionary white pillars of clouds. However, hav- 
 ing been practised a little at sea in looking out 
 for land, I thought that there was a resemblance 
 to it ; and the intervening mists clearing away, 
 a spectacle was presented which I shall never 
 forget. The enormous mountains were entirely 
 covered with snow, and rose to such a height, 
 that we were obliged to strain our necks back 
 to look up at them. They seemed to belong to 
 a different world, their heads only being seen, 
 for the sky was perfectly bright above, while 
 the horizon was somewhat obscured. We were 
 at this time certainly not less than one hundred 
 and seventy miles from the Cumbre, or summit 
 
222 REMARKS ON 
 
 of the Cordillera ; and I have heard ti*avellers 
 assert, that it may even be seen from San Louis, 
 in very clear weather." This is a description of 
 the first sight of the Andes, at a distance of one 
 hundred and seventy miles. Now, would any 
 one have imagined, that at such a distance, a 
 man would be obliged to ^' strain back his neck,^' 
 to get sight of an altitude of about fourteen 
 thousand feet? I will only ask this gentleman, 
 what he did to get sight of the Cumbre, when he 
 was in the valley of Uspallata; after he had 
 travelled upwards of one hundred miles towards 
 it, and was then only sixty-nine miles from it ? 
 Where must his head have been at that time ? 
 what must the angle then have been ? 
 
 In speaking of crossing the Laderas : I must 
 observe that the danger of these passes are 
 nuicli exaggerated by all travellers that I 
 have read ; it is really absurd, for there is 
 no danger whatever, excepting, as I have 
 before observed, a recent fall has taken place, 
 and no path left; or when they are co- 
 
VARIOUS TRAVELLERS. 223 
 
 vered with snow, as was the case when I 
 crossed in the winter, but on my return in 
 the summer, I would have gone full gallop 
 over them all, if the ascent would admit of that 
 pace. 
 
 Another traveller speaks, when crossing the 
 Pampas, of having horse's skulls for seats, 
 horse's skulls for pillows, &c. I must say that 
 I never met any thing of this sort ; for I never 
 even saw one, during my two journies across, 
 except at Villavicencia, where there were two 
 in the wretched hovel of a shed, w^hich served 
 the purpose of a kitchen. I feel assured these 
 travellers have no intention of leading any one 
 astray by their remarks, but many persons are 
 apt to be influenced by them, and might picture 
 to themselves the horrid dangers, and savage 
 country they have to travel through ; whereas 
 very little is to be dreaded, and I only wish 
 many parts of England were as civilized and 
 safe to travel through as the Pampas."* 
 
 * Of course the Pampas are subject to the incursions of the 
 
224 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 By six o'clock we were on the move, thermo- 
 meter 52°. Our ascent commenced very rapidly ; 
 we passed many beautiful waterfalls, skipping and 
 leaping down the mountains from an enormous 
 height, and fell in with many mules from Mendoza, 
 which showed an animated scene, widely different 
 from when I crossed before. After crossing over 
 a bridge made of the trunks of trees, we opened 
 the ^' Alto del Soldado, or Soldier's Leap," 
 spoken of in the former part of my journal. Hav- 
 ing an opportunity this time, I was determined to 
 inspect it ; the gap is most extraordinary, at 
 least twenty feet wide, but the edges are so 
 ragged that it is impossible to get close to them 
 on either side, and a torrent was foaming through 
 it; the gap almost closes at the end, making a 
 distance of a hundred yards or more in length. 
 At this distance it becomes a mere rent in the 
 
 Indians and Monteneros at all times ; these a traveller can 
 never guard against, and must always run the ciiance of; 
 but at other times they may be travelled vvith much greater 
 security than the same distance in England. 
 
EL ALTO DEL SOLDADO. 225 
 
 earth, and the water rushes from underneath, pass- 
 ing through a subterraneous passage, so that when 
 a person is standing at the bottom of the gap, 
 it appears about eight hundred feet high, and 
 has a singular and wonderful appearance, but 
 to leap it, is not in human power to accomplish ; 
 the deserter might have gone round it and hid 
 himself amongst the rocks, and his pursuers 
 might also have been under the idea that he had 
 leaped over, for without following the gap up very 
 closely, it is so rugged that you cannot perceive 
 that it is at all passable by any other method. 
 
 On leaving this gap, we shortly arrived at the 
 Guardia, which, on my crossing before, was 
 deserted. It was now inhabited, and the walls 
 all built, running a great height up the moun- 
 tains on each side, so that nothing could enter 
 into, or come out of the Cordillera without pass- 
 ing it, being the only pass in the range of the 
 Andes, from Uspallata to Chili. At this place 
 I presented my passport, and had my luggage 
 searched very narrowly ; they found one packet of 
 
 Q 
 
226 LA GUARDIA DE LOS HORNILLOS. 
 
 unfraiiked letters, for which I had to pay post- 
 age, besides bribery to the amount of seventeen 
 dollars, and with much difficulty evaded being 
 sent back to Chili, for they are extremely par- 
 ticular with respect to letters not being regularly 
 franked. It was very fortunate they did not find 
 all I had ; if so, I should have got into a pretty 
 hobble, but having a velice purposely made for 
 my dispatches, and that being behind my saddle 
 on the back of my mule, they never thought of 
 looking into it, where I had at least fifty more. 
 However, it will be a lesson for me how to 
 oblige my friends another time. 
 
 After taking some slight refreshment, and a 
 siesta under the shade of a rock, I proceeded 
 on at three, and soon entered into scenery 
 that was entirely new to me ; for within two 
 miles of this place, when I passed before, it was 
 all covered with snow, so that the face of things 
 was entirely changed. I could not but feel a pe- 
 culiar sensation on witnessing the terrible places 
 we must have passed over. What before appear- 
 
SECOND NIGHT FN THE ANDES. 2*i7 
 
 cd SO awfully dangerous, was now transformed 
 to beautiful evergreen shrubs, with little elegant 
 mountain flowers peeping out from between 
 the rocks and stones ; and being mounted, in- 
 stead of the labour of w^alking, rendered the 
 contrast peculiarly striking and interesting to 
 me. All awful appearances being gone, I could 
 not but look round with feelings of the purest 
 delight and gratitude. 
 
 Shortly after, passed the casucha Ojo del Agua, 
 then turning to the left, crossed a furious torrent 
 which discharges itself into the Aconcagua. The 
 night being fine, we put up under the lee of 
 some rocks, surrounded by the lofty high moun- 
 tains of the Cordillera, whose extreme summits 
 were still partly covered with snow ; the weather 
 was mild and pleasant, thermometer standing 
 at 58°. 
 
 The mules were turned adrift as usual, to 
 graze on the few surrounding shrubs which were 
 here very scanty, and the peons proceeded to 
 make a fire in order to prepare some supper ; 
 the boy and I employed ourselves fetching water 
 
 q2 
 
228 ASCENT OF TflE 
 
 from the foaming torrent, which kept up a noise 
 like thunder during the night, from sweeping frag- 
 ments of rocks and stones before it. Before retiring 
 to rest, and while taking a comfortable tin pot frill 
 of punch, my peon and the courier amused me by 
 relating the horrors of the past winter. Among 
 other things, they told me, that two Englishmen, 
 and fourteen peons were nearly lost in a snow 
 storm; that all their provisions had failed them, 
 and that they arrived at the Guardia nearly starved. 
 On enquiring the name of the arriero, and who 
 the English gentlemen were, I found that it was 
 Mr. Cochran and myself. So much again for the 
 truth of reports ! It pleased God to preserve us 
 in the storm ; but we arrived at the Guardia 
 with provisions enough to serve us another week, 
 in case of such an emergency. 
 
 Thursday , Decetnber ^2()th, we were up at 
 four, and the peons in search of the mules that 
 had strayed far up among the mountains, which 
 prevented our starting till six. Thermometer 
 standing at 56% with a beautiful tine morning. 
 
CUESTA DE CONCUAL. 229 
 
 Itimiediately commenced ascending the Cuesta de 
 Concual, which was the terrific descent I came 
 down witli so much difficulty in the winter, and 
 truly astonished was I now to look at it. A 
 foaming torrent was rushing down the very spot 
 where we had descended. Our path now lay by 
 the side of it, passing up in a zig-zag direction 
 round the mountain, which was here and there 
 still obstructed by a few small patches of snow. 
 As we ascended, the thermometer fell to 48^^ in 
 the shade. On arriving at the top, the Laguna 
 del Inca opened o n our left, whichl had not 
 before seen, on account of its being frozen over 
 and covered with snow. On terminating another 
 steep ascent, which I had before slid down, we 
 arrived at the casiicha de Calaveras, situated at 
 the foot of the Cumbre. On my last crossing the 
 Cordillera, I slept at this casucha, where lay the 
 bales of goods that had been deserted; it was then 
 surrounded by a wall of snow eight feet high, but 
 at this time all was clear. Immediately on leaving 
 the casucha the ascent of the Cumbre commences. 
 
230 ASCENT OF THE CUMBRE. 
 
 for which we accordingly prepared, such as ar- 
 ranging the cargoes, girthing the mules afresh;, 
 and last, not least, taking a crust of bread, and a 
 little brandy and water by way of stimulus, for 
 it was rather cold. We trotted on very mer- 
 rily, passing through many patches of snow, and 
 small torrents running down the mountain, but 
 not such as to inconvenience us, or cause us 
 to dismount. On arriving half way up, and 
 coming to a small flat, which serves as a resting- 
 place, we perceived a troop of mules descend- 
 ing, which detained us some time, as we were 
 obliged to wait until they passed us. The snow 
 still lay in deep ruts, and we were surrounded 
 by high snow-capped mountains in all direc- 
 tions. It was a novel and beautiful sight to 
 look up at the mules defiling down the various 
 zig-zag paths from such an awful height, ap- 
 pearing like so many sheep. As they ap- 
 proached the dift'erent patches of snow, that lay 
 in their paths, the peons made a great noise 
 to encourage them over, which was echoed back 
 
VIEW FROM THE CUMBRE. 231 
 
 ill solemn repetitions by the huge and awful 
 mountains around us ; then vibrating and dying 
 away in the distant vallies, it left upon the 
 mind of the traveller, a strong impression of 
 his solitary and dreary situation. After waiting 
 till the troop of mules passed us, we com- 
 menced ascending again, and soon came to 
 tracks of snow, so deep that the mules were, 
 at times, entirely hid in them, and being very 
 narrow we were obliged to throw our legs for- 
 ward over the front of the saddle. The sun shone 
 bright on the glittering snow, which made it very 
 unpleasant to the eyes. As we advanced my as- 
 tonishment increased, on beholding the places 
 where I had previously descended. At ten ar- 
 rived at the casucha on the Cumbre, which 
 stands a little to the left of the summit, coming 
 from the Mendoza side. I observed the tracks, 
 where in the winter, I had descended from the 
 summit ; they were still plainly visible, and far 
 away from any tracks near the Casucha, for we 
 did not go to it, but commenced our descent 
 
232 VIEW FROM THE CUMBRE. 
 
 immediately. It appeared to me that not a soul 
 had been there but ourselves, and I could not 
 but picture to myself the difference of my feel- 
 ings at that time, and the present moment. Here 
 I stood observing the mules as they came up; first, 
 a man's head would appear like a little black spot 
 rising up from the glittering snow, which had a 
 most singular and beautiful appearance, while 
 looking down upon it; like thousands, or fields of 
 crystals, in the form of sugar loaves, showing- 
 various prismatic colours sparkling in the glaring 
 sun ; in the midst of these would rise up a mule's 
 head, and by degrees the whole came up, travel- 
 ling, as it were, amidst sparkling diamonds : we 
 arrived at the summit at half past ten, making an 
 ascent, I should say, of at least five thousand 
 feet since six o'clock. 
 
 From the casucha, I walked up to the summit 
 purposely to try the effect of the puna again, 
 but felt nothing of it ; thermometer stood at 38^ 
 at top in the shade, in the sun 89°. 
 
 I now ascended the highest rock I could get 
 
VIEW FROM THE CUMBRE. 233 
 
 at, and looked down upon the little casucha on 
 the Mendoza side. What an awful height, and 
 wonderful appearance ! Strange to say, there w as 
 not a spot of snow the whole way down : whereas 
 the Chili side was almost all snow; the rocks and 
 mountains were also of a different appearance, 
 composed of red granite and loose stones, but very 
 barren, resembling the burnt ashes of a furnace, 
 the river was foaming beneath, and had all the ap- 
 pearance of brick-dust and water, while again on 
 the Chili side (comparatively speaking) the tor- 
 rents were clear. I must have been at this time 
 looking down a giddy height of at least three 
 thousand feet ; here 1 picked up a few stones as a 
 memento for my friends in England, and drank 
 their healths in some brandy and water, which 
 was all I possessed. After an*anging the car- 
 goes, fresh saddling, &c. we commenced our de- 
 scent. Certainly it was a giddy height to look 
 down. I preferred walking, having from necessity 
 done so in the winter, I wished also to do it in 
 summer ; not only to ascertain whether the exertion 
 
234 DESCENT OF THE CUMBRE. 
 
 would affect my breathing, but to prove how 
 very easily such things may be accomplished, and 
 also, because I differ in opinion with many other 
 travellers respectmg the great dependence to be 
 placed on the mules, for I would never trust one 
 where there was any dangerous descent; in the 
 torrents, certainly they are wonderful animals, 
 but for descending, give me my own legs, for I 
 would much sooner trust to them; however, at 
 the Cumbre, there is not the slightest danger, for 
 the substance is so loose, that if a man were to 
 slip, excepting he absolutely tumbled head over 
 heels, it would be impossible for him to go very 
 far. I half ran, half walked, the whole way 
 down, arriving at the bottom about a quarter 
 past eleven, where the thermometer stood at 80^, 
 making a difference in the temperature of 30° 
 in half an hour. My readers may recollect my 
 description of ascending the Cumbre in the win- 
 ter, when the whole Cordillera was blocked up 
 with snow, and we were obliged to desert our 
 mules at the Punta las Vacas, but not until we 
 
EXTRACT FROM A TRAVELLER. 235 
 
 had lost three of them, and they could proceed 
 no further. I will now quote an exti'act from 
 ci traveller, because it made a serious impression 
 on me before I entered the Cordillera of the An- 
 des ; and had I not been myself an old traveller, 
 I do not hesitate in saying* that it might have in- 
 fluenced me in proceeding further. I shall there- 
 fore make no remarks upon it, but merely quote 
 it from his own work, wherein he says : '^ We soon 
 began to ascend that part of the Cordillera called 
 the Cumbre, or summit of the ridge; and shortly 
 the ground became so steep, and, owing to a 
 crust of frozen snow, so slippery, that our sur- 
 prise was great, when we saw that our mules 
 could carry us and our heavy loads along it: a 
 brow, where, had we attempted, not only to 
 walk, but even to stand on our feet, ive must 
 instantly have slipped and rolled down, like 
 snoiv-halls, the distance of above a mile. Our 
 Peruvian fellow-traveller, who rode immediately 
 behind me, was from time to time exclaiming, 
 ' Ave Maria, qual camino P and I, fearing lest 
 
236 EXTRACT FROM A TRAVELLER. 
 
 his ejaculations should vibrate the atmosphere 
 too rtiuch, and my mule out of its balance, was 
 holding on it, as if a7i ounce 7nore ofdy thrown 
 over the right or left side, should make us both 
 roll down to a death, which we are apt to con- 
 template differently, or to talk more freely of, 
 when our passions are stirring within, and warm- 
 ing us, than when they and our body become 
 chilled by an icy wind, and scenery."* Proceed- 
 ing onward, with a gradual descent, we were 
 joined by a troop of ten mules, loaded with mer- 
 chandize, and going to Mendoza ; we soon arrived 
 at the Rio de las Cuevas, which was running 
 down most furiously, and the stones rolling under- 
 neath, made it extremely dangerous to cross. I 
 must observe, that all the rivers on the Mendoza 
 side were much more rapid and dangerous to cross 
 than those on the Ciiili side, for there are none 
 of any consequence in Chili, excepting the 
 Aconcagua, which is rendered passable by 
 bridges here and there thrown across. It 
 
 * Scluuidtinoycr's 'rnivcls into Chili, &c, page 123. 
 
METHOD OF CROSSING THE RIVERS. 237 
 
 certainly reflects great discredit on the province 
 of Mendoza, not fitting bridges to these very 
 dangerous rivers, for it might be done at a very 
 trifling expence; and the duties which are levied 
 on all goods passing in and out of the Cordillera 
 would amply repay it, and be the means of sav- 
 ing many lives, and much property, which is 
 yearly lost on the first opening of the Cor- 
 dillera. 
 
 The velocity with which the water comes 
 down when the snow melts in the mountains, 
 is beyond all conception. I was here informed, 
 that the first troop of mules crossed the Cordil- 
 lera on the 15^/^ of December. I entered it on 
 the \Sth. In order to cross the rivers, we were 
 obliged to have lassoes made fast round our bo- 
 dies, for fear of the mules losing their footing from 
 the rolling stones : a man first crossed over with 
 one lasso, when on arriving at the opposite shore, 
 he held it fast while all the others crossed with two : 
 in this manner we all succeeded in getting over. 
 Shortly afterwards we arrived at the Rio de los 
 
238 METHOD OF CROSSING THE RIVERS. 
 
 Orcones, which was terrible indeed : for being two 
 o'clock in the day, it was very high, and at its 
 greatest velocity. The noise of the stones rolling 
 at the bottom, was certainly appalling, and much 
 resembled underground thunder. I went first 
 with the old courier, and it required our utmost 
 exertions to keep the mules' heads up, to face the 
 torrent, which flew past us over our knees, at 
 the rate often knots per hour. I could plainly feel 
 the mule trembling and slipping beneath me, yet 
 straining with all his might to keep upon his legs. 
 On the opposite shore we held the lassoes while 
 the others crossed. Just as the boy got out of the 
 rapid, his mule stumbled and fell; but we caught 
 them with the lassoes before they got into the 
 stream again. I now looked anxiously for my black 
 mule with the cargo. He brought it over admi- 
 rably, and was sent across again for the other one, 
 with which he struggled through, but bulfetted 
 the waves with a little more difficulty. As the 
 merchandize was coming over, one mule was 
 swept off its legs : the torrent first whirled him 
 
LOSS OF TWO MULES. 239 
 
 round and round, then head over heels he went, 
 dashing against the rocks, while the peons were 
 following hira down the river, throwing their las- 
 soes at him, strange to say, he disengaged him- 
 self of his cargo, which proved his destruction, for 
 that appeared a greater consideration to the peons 
 than the poor animal, it being saved, and the 
 mule lost. To get this cargo over, now required 
 another mule to cross the river aofain. Although 
 I strongly protested against it, the poor black 
 one was sent. I saw he was very w^eak, for he 
 was nearly lost in going over light: however 
 the load was put on, and the lassoes made fast 
 to him ; when by dint of hallooing, beating, and 
 throwing stones, he made the attempt ; but 
 just as he got in the middle of the rapid, he 
 was whirled round like a top, off his legs, and 
 aw ay he w ent, dragging the lassoes out of the 
 men's hands : others were thrown at him, but to 
 no purpose, his head went under water, and 
 dashing from one rock to another, life appeared 
 to be extinct in an instant, and in two minutes 
 we lost sight of him. Poor animal ! I could not 
 
240 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 but feel for him ; for it was owing to his good 
 qualities that he lost his life. 
 
 While the peons were arranging their cargoes, 
 and regretting the loss of their mules, I went up 
 to visit the Inca's bridge, which was very near to 
 where we crossed^ a branch of the river Los Or- 
 cones running through it. My object was to as- 
 certain the temperature of the hot springs — there 
 are three hot and one cold. After crossing over 
 the bridge, they lie a little up to the left. The two 
 hottest were of equal temperature, 9V ; the next, 
 which is the largest, was 83*^ ; and the cold one 
 66'\ I took samples of SS"* and 91°.* It is a very 
 singular circumstance, that the cold spring should 
 be between the two hottest. They are all three 
 of the same size, about a foot or fifteen inches 
 in diameter, and two feet deep, but not more 
 than three feet apart from each other. The 
 largest is about four yards distant from the rest, 
 about two feet in diameter, and of the same 
 depth. The whole surface of the ground where 
 they overflow was incrustated witli a mineral 
 * For the Analysis of tliis water see the Appendix. 
 
THE INCA'S BRIDGE. 241 
 
 substance, much resembling brown saltpetre. 
 The cold spring was salter, but not so bitter to 
 the taste as the warm ones ; they were so very- 
 strong, that I should be inclined to believe a 
 small quantity w ould produce vomit. No smell 
 proceeded from the water at the springs. I re- 
 gretted very much not being able to get down 
 under the bridge, in order to ascertain what I 
 have heard was a petrefaction. Had I not heard 
 it asserted as such, I should have been under 
 the impression that it was nothing more than a 
 substance formed from the mineral water running 
 down and incrustating itself. 
 
 The bridge is certainly a wonderfully curious 
 and natural production, formed by a branch of 
 the Rio de los Orcones rushing through it, which 
 at this time w^as high and swollen, tearing down 
 at the rate of ten or twelve knots. 1 remember 
 a certain traveller calling it a paltry stream ; but 
 if he had been here, and seen the loss of the 
 poor mules, and the diflSculty and danger we 
 encountered in crossing it, I think his opinion 
 
 R 
 
242 CASUCHA DE PARAMILLA. 
 
 would have been changed ; although in the 
 winter I crossed it over a natural bridge of snow ; 
 about the end of summer, that is to say, the 
 month of April, no doubt but it might dwindle 
 into a stream. 
 
 We now tracked the river down a little, in hopes 
 of seeing something of the mule or cargo, but to 
 no purpose ; so giving it up as a bad job, we 
 proceeded on our journey, and passed the ca- 
 sucha de Paramilla, which I looked at most 
 wistfully, being the one in which we were blocked 
 up during the snow-storm. The very idea of it 
 made me shiver, although the thermometer was 
 standing at 84": like a frightened child, I turned 
 away from it, and almost involuntarily quickened 
 my pace to get up to my guide. 
 
 1 was telling my guide that at the next casucha 
 (Pujios) we might see the body of a poor peon 
 that perished during the winter, just as I en- 
 tered the Cordillera. " Si senor," said he, *^ mi 
 hermano," my brother; and then he began re- 
 lating to me the horrors of the story, all of which 
 
CORDILLERA LIONS. 243 
 
 I was as well acquainted with as himself. On 
 coming up to the spot, he showed me a simple 
 cross stuck in the wild rocks to his memory ; by 
 the side of it lay his baton or stick. I was 
 astonished not to find any of his bones, when he 
 informed me that he carried them to Uspallata 
 in his handkerchief, and that the lions had de- 
 voured his body. We saw two of these animals 
 to-day, which are called Cordillera Lions ; they 
 are not, strictly speaking, lions, but more a spe- 
 cies of ounce; (felis puma;) the hinder hips are 
 very high, and the hinder legs much longer than the 
 fore ones, the head having more the appearance 
 of a large cat, the colour only being that of a 
 lion; there is no danger to be apprehended from 
 them as I never heard of an accident happening 
 to any one ; they are very destructive to sheep 
 and poultry, and fi'equently make descents into 
 the valleys in search of prey when hunger pinches 
 them. Shortly after this we arrived at the Rio 
 Santa Maria, which discharges itself into the 
 Orcones, and the Orcones into the Mendoza, or 
 
 R 2 
 
244 THIRD NIGHT IN THE ANDES. 
 
 as the natives sometimes call it, Rio Grande. It 
 was so swollen and rapid that we thought our mules 
 too weak to attempt crossing, so put up for the 
 night on its banks, amongst rocks and stones, 
 ready for crossing very early in the morning, 
 which is always the best time, before the sun 
 melts the snow in the mountains. This day I 
 suffered a little in my lips from the cold on the 
 Cumbre, and extreme change of temperature in 
 so short a space of time. In less than three 
 quarters of an hour from the thermometer stand- 
 ing at the top in the shade 38°, at the bottom in 
 the sun it was 105°. And no place could we 
 find to shelter ourselves, the sun being nearly 
 vertical. 
 
245 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Description of a Portable Canteeu for the Cordillera, or 
 Pampas — Rio de las Vacas — Its Dangers — Mules lost in 
 crossing — A Man nearly lost — Fourth Night in the Andes — 
 Arrive at Uspallata — View of the Cordillera — Fifth Night 
 in the Andes — Villavicencia — Arrive at Mendoza — Bull 
 Fight at Mendoza — Prepare for the Pampas — Engage the 
 Courier — Leave Mendoza — Arrive at San Luis — Reports 
 of Robbers — Head of a Robber stuck upon a Pole — Fall 
 from a Wild Horse — Swarms of Locusts — Arrive at Frayle 
 Muerto — Desmochado, millions of Mosquitos — Lose my 
 Note Book — A Peon brings it back — Galloped Thirty-six 
 Miles in Two Hours and a Half — Leave the Courier — 
 Meet an English Merchant — Storm in the Pampas — Oxer- 
 taken by Mr. Robertson — Proceed on together — Arrive at 
 Buenos Ayres. 
 
 Dec. 2\st, Friday. Fine morning, thermo- 
 meter 64*^. Shook the sand and stones from our 
 beds and blankets, or mine rather, for I was the 
 only person that had either, and got my old friend 
 
246 TRAVELLING CANTEEN. 
 
 the tin pot under weigh, and made myself some 
 tea, while the mules were loading. This tin 
 pot must not be forgotten, for it answered all 
 purposes ; sometimes a soup basin, then a tea 
 pot, tea cup, tumbler or wine glass, punch bowl, 
 &c.; besides serving its turn at the rivers 
 helping all hands with water, occasionally it 
 would be filled with farina and water, and 
 handed round to the company, a most agreeable 
 beverage which quenches the thirst effectually, 
 and very much resembles oatmeal and water. Be 
 it also known that this same tin pot, with a knife, 
 fork, and spoon which shut up in one, and car- 
 ried in my breeches pocket, was the sum total of 
 my travelling canteen, so it may naturally be 
 supposed that I had a particular regard for it. 
 
 Every thing being ready, we were on the 
 move by six, and were fortunate enough to cross 
 the river very easily. Our next and last difficulty, 
 we were informed, would be the Rio de las Vacas, 
 which in truth was a difficulty, being the worst in 
 the Cordillera. We very soon came to it, and in 
 
RIO DE LAS VACAS. 247 
 
 there was a scene that truly astonished me. On 
 each side of the river were about two hundred 
 mules, their cargoes lying scattered in all direc- 
 tions; some of them had been detained on its banks 
 for three days, and were likely to remain as many 
 more. The river was certainly awful ; many 
 mules and two men had already been lost. There 
 were people employed building a bridge across it, 
 and a temporary machine was erected for the pur- 
 pose of carrying over the men and cargoes, but 
 those who first got possession of it retained it 
 until they had worked over all their cargo. It was 
 constructed as follows :— two posts were firmly 
 erected ou each side the river directly opposite 
 to each other, two ropes of hide were then car- 
 ried across and made fast by way of banisters ; 
 on these two ropes, which were fastened to the 
 posts, was a piece of wicker-work much resem- 
 bling the top of a basket; this was made to 
 traverse backwards and forwards by having a 
 ring at each corner, through which the ropes 
 were rove; a leading line was then made fast 
 
$248 METHOD OF CROSSING. 
 
 to a mule on the opposite side, and when the 
 man or cargo were in the cradle, the mule gal- 
 loped up the opposite bank and dragged them 
 over. It was rather a frail thing to trust to, for 
 when the weight came to the centre the hide rope 
 stretched and nearly touched the water, and 
 with the slightest cant, without holding firmly on, 
 you might be thrown into the river, when nothing 
 could save you from being drowned should you 
 fall in the centre. 
 
 The man who now occupied this machine was 
 a surly fellow ; he knew I must cross, and when 
 he saw my anxiety, from first asking only two 
 dollars, he increased his demand to eight; see- 
 ing there was no alternative, I paid it to him 
 without putting my pistol to his fi'ont tooth, as 
 a certain traveller did on almost a similar occa- 
 sion, for I espied a long knife stuck in his belt, 
 and his countenance seemed to indicate that he 
 would not hesitate in making use of it; besides, 
 good an opinion as I have of these people, I know, 
 that when they are once irritated, they have no 
 
MULES LOST IN CROSSING. 249 
 
 command over themselves, therefore I thought it 
 most prudent not to run the chance of it, or of 
 waiting two (^ays on the banks of the river, if he 
 chose to be obstinate. It appeared almost a 
 judgment upon him, for the first cargo he put in 
 the cradle after passing over myself and party, 
 the machine canted, and in spite of twenty or 
 thirty lassoes, the cargo was lost. 
 
 A troop of light mules were now driven in the 
 river, my guide told me to be on the look out. 
 About thirty men lined themselves along the 
 banks of the river with lassoes in their hands, 
 and such a scene I never beheld : the noise and 
 confusion to get them in, the tumbling and strug- 
 gling against the velocity of the current; the 
 lassoes flying in all directions at the mules that 
 were whirled off their legs, some rolled head over 
 heels, others dashed against the rocks till life 
 was nearly extinct, then down the stream they 
 went, and the water was dyed with their blood 
 ill all directions. 
 
 I am afraid to say how many were lost, I 
 
250 A PEON NEARLY LOST. 
 
 should imagine at least five or six, besides others 
 hauled to the shore lacerated most dreadfully; 
 really it was a most distressing sight, and did 
 not end here, for a line was wanted to be led 
 across, further up the river, in order to pass over 
 more mules ; an elderly man came quite naked, 
 on a fine tall horse, and appeared to scorn mak- 
 ing the lasso fast round his body, being so well 
 mounted, so he carried it in his hand against the 
 persuasion of every body around. The horse 
 plunged nobly into the foaming torrent and 
 was almost instantaneously swept off his legs : 
 man and horse rolled for a moment over toge- 
 ther, when in an instant no less than three lassoes 
 were round the man^s neck. Incredible as it may 
 appear, being afraid to pull, the peons slacked 
 them and he canted heels up, when, with astonish- 
 ing precision two more caught him, and he was 
 dragged to the shore almost lifeless, but with a 
 terrible cut in the leg, the horse was also lassoed 
 and dragged to the shore without receiving any 
 apparent injury ; although the man lay on the rocks 
 
LADERA DE LA FULVIDERA. 251 
 
 without signs of life in him, it appeared to be 
 only a source of amusement to the peons. 
 
 We were detained at this river five hours, 
 when we proceeded on, following by the side of 
 it, till it empties itself into the Mendoza. The 
 difference to me now was, that I was travelling 
 above, whereas, before, I passed in the bed of 
 the river. 
 
 At five leagues distance from Las Vacas, came 
 to the Ladera de la Pulvidera ; for an account of 
 which, in the winter, see my journal. The differ- 
 ence now was very great having a good path to pass. 
 The height to look up was certainly awful. Imme- 
 diately on descending this Ladera, we struck into a 
 branch of the Mendoza, which ran deep and close 
 up to the side of the mountain itself, so that we 
 were obliged to pass in the river with some difii~ 
 culty, and presently arrived at the Ladera de la 
 Cortidera which was very good, having been well 
 repaired and all the broken places filled up with 
 stones, in fact two mules could pass abreast with 
 ease. The next river was the Pichauca, so 
 
252 FOURTH NIGHT IN THE ANDES. 
 
 named by the Indians 5 this we crossed close un- 
 der a high fall of water, which made a terrible 
 roaring noise from large pieces of rock and 
 stones falling with it, but the danger was not so 
 great as it appeared. Being overtaken by dark, 
 we had to cross several small torrents, which was 
 not very pleasant, and at 9. 30. P. M. put up for 
 the night by the side of the Rio de los Ranchil- 
 los : our object was to be in readiness for cross- 
 ing early in the morning. Here I had my bed made 
 amongst stones and bushes, as usual : we had very 
 much lightning and a heavy dew during the 
 night; but from the fatigues of the day, and some 
 hot punch out of my old tin pot, I was soon 
 lulled to sleep by the roaring of the river. 
 
 Saturday, December 22(1. From the heavy 
 dew which fell during the night I was quite wet in 
 bed ; we were moving before daylight and cross- 
 ed the river very easily. As we were fast clearing 
 the great pass of the mountains and winding 
 down into the plain of Uspallata, we met a large 
 party just entering the Cordillera, who anxious- 
 
ARRIVE AT USPALLATA. 253 
 
 ly enquired what state the rivers were in. The 
 courier informed them, that if the machine was 
 not at the Rio de las Vacas, they might have to 
 wait on its banks three or four days, for it would 
 be impossible to pass with their cargoes : about 
 6. 30. A. M. cleared the pass of the Cordillera, 
 and entered the plain of Uspallata. Having here 
 to cross the river, we found it much swollen and 
 very broad and deep, but not running with any 
 velocity, therefore passed it very easily, and ar- 
 rived at the Guardia, fi'om whence there is 
 beautiful full view of the mighty Cordillera, which 
 I have given a description of in my winter^s jour- 
 ney ; but at this time there was a vast difference 
 in its appearance, the tops of the mountains only 
 being covered with snow, whereas before, it all 
 appeared one impenetrable mass. Here we rest- 
 ed and turned the poor mules out to graze : they 
 had been nearly three days without any thing to 
 eat, and showed themselves not a little delighted 
 at their liberty and some good grass that grew 
 about the place. 
 
254 LEAVE USPALLATA. 
 
 In the plain of Uspallata, stands one solitary 
 tree, the first and only one to be seen on the 
 Mendoza side of the Cordillera, which is seventy 
 miles from the Cumbre; the Eastern Cordillera 
 is extremely barren, nothing but huge moun- 
 tains and rocks of red granite. The descent be- 
 tween these mountains being much more gTadual 
 than the Chili side, the traveller is continually 
 looking up at the enormous heights around him ; 
 now and then a solitary condor may be seen 
 soaring above in search of prey, or a Cordillera 
 lion prowling along the frightful precipices, look- 
 ing down with astonishment upon the pigmy tra- 
 vellers beneath. Save these, no other animal 
 (but the guanaco,) of any description, is to be 
 seen for a distance of a hundred and twenty miles 
 in the dreary regions of the Cordillera. The offi- 
 cer stationed here recognized me as having pass- 
 ed in the winter, and I received the greatest civi- 
 lity from him. We remained till three o'clock in 
 the day in order to refresh ourselves and mules : 
 at two, the thermometer in shade stood at 90% in 
 
FIFTH NIGHT IN THE ANDES. 255 
 
 the sun 125o. At 3. 30. P. M. left Uspallata, 
 but the heat of the day was so intolerable, (ther- 
 mometer then standing at 88%) that we travelled 
 very slowly and were overtaken by night ; after 
 passing over several dark cuestas and numerous 
 small torrents, we at midnight took up our 
 abode on a very wild spot ; it came on to blow 
 hard with drizzling rain^ and not being able to 
 find any water near, we all lay down very thirsty 
 and supperless. I was not able to sleep, on ac- 
 count of the heavy rain, and it blew so hard that 
 I could not possibly keep any covering over me, so 
 I even got up and dressed, and sat most wretchedly 
 awaiting daylight. As soon as it dawned we were 
 off, and got to Villavicencia by six o'clock on Sun- 
 day, 2Sd, just as the cows were being milked. I 
 made a most excellent breakfast off bread and milk, 
 the best I had tasted since leaving Santiago. This 
 day proved very cloudy, which made our travel- 
 ling much cooler and pleasant. Thermometer at 
 nine stood at 64°. After leaving Villavicencia, 
 
256 ARRIVE AT MENDOZA. 
 
 we met several large troops of mules entering 
 the Cordillera. We soon after cleared the hills, 
 and entered the wild plains of sand and brush- 
 wood, skirting by the side of the mountains for 
 the high road to Mendoza. Here we passed many 
 carriages of the country, with families going to the 
 baths near Villavicencia ; about 1. 30. P. M. came 
 to the first mud hut at the entrance of Mendoza, 
 which is a league from the town. The road was 
 overflowed with water the whole way : it has a 
 mud wall on one side, with a few poplars on the 
 other. At two arrived at Mendoza, thus crossing 
 the Andes in five days from Santa Rosa. My 
 first object was to enquire for Dr. Gillies, whom 
 I was very sorry to find still in a very bad state of 
 health : likewise Mr. G. From these gentlemen 
 I learnt that the province of San Luis had been 
 infested by robbers, but that the governor had sent 
 out a party of troops and dispersed them : two 
 had been caught and immediately shot. They had 
 robbed a French lady and gentleman that passed 
 
PREPARE FOR CROSSING THE PAMPAS. 257 
 
 through San Luis the same day that I passed for 
 Mendoza ; we had put up at the same house to- 
 gether. 
 
 Finding there was no fear of the Indians^ I 
 decided upon proceeding ; and wishing to travel 
 with speed, I accordingly engaged the courier and 
 a trusty peon^, in both which instances I was 
 singularly fortunate, for it happened to be the 
 same courier whom I had before met on the Pam- 
 pas, and who had kept company with us for three 
 days, also the same peon had just arrived from 
 Buenos Ayres, who had crossed with me before : 
 of course 1 did not hesitate instantly to engage 
 them both, but was obliged to pay a high price, 
 as they were alarmed at the reports of the state 
 of the country. On Christmas Day I took out my 
 passport and post-house license, leaving to my 
 peon to procure sugar, mat6, &c. for the Pampas. 
 
 The governor (to whom I was obliged to go 
 and have my passport signed) was at a bull- 
 fight, given by three ladies of distinction at 
 Mendoza, in honour of the day; and much did I 
 
258 BULL FIGHT AT MENDOZA. 
 
 regret from what I witnessed^, that necessity 
 compelled me to go there likewise. In the 
 morning there had been a man killed^ yet still 
 was this cruel and barbarous amusement carried 
 on the whole of the day. Thousands of people 
 were assembled together, almost all on horse- 
 back; and the fighters were in a ring formed of 
 strong stakes, at one part of which was a door 
 to let in the bullocks ; at this time none were 
 inside ; but close to the door were three brutes 
 in the shape of men, spearing and spiking a poor 
 bullock, that was drawn by the horns fast down 
 to a stake ; the poor animal was roaring and bel- 
 lowing with all its might, while the blood was 
 literally spurting out from its sides. Such wan- 
 ton cruelty I never in my life witnessed ; it ab- 
 solutely made me sick with compassion and 
 disgust. 1 did not see any ladies there ; but I 
 understood that those who gave the feast, as it was 
 called, made their appearance every time a bull 
 was turned out; that was, when it was tormented 
 to madness. Not being able to g^i to the 
 
BULL PIC [IT AT MENDOZA. 259 
 
 governor myself, I sent my passport to liim : 
 he was polite enough to sign it without seeing 
 me ; and I left the place heartily disgusted with 
 such a scene of cruelty. From thence I went 
 to the Alameda, and enjoyed the cool breeze, 
 while taking an ice, with a magnificent view of 
 the Andes before me, and all the beauty and 
 fashion of Mendoza around me, alas ! I could 
 not but think how different, how widely different 
 tiiis sacred day would be spent in dear, dear 
 old England. The average temperature at Men- 
 doza during my four days' stay was, at eight, 
 A.M. 75^ at two, P.M. 88"; at seven, P.M. 
 77** ; in the sun, 120^ In order to judge of the 
 difference of temperature in the Cordillera dur- 
 ing summer and winter, I have entered my sum- 
 mer's journal on the same plan as the winter's, 
 commencing from Santiago to Mendoza — 
 
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LEAVE MENDOZA. 261 
 
 As it may be of service to any traveller cross- 
 ing the Cordillera, I have given the different 
 distances to various places, casuchas, &c. all 
 through the Andes, commencing from Valparaiso 
 to Mendoza.* 
 
 The courier not being despatched from the 
 post-office till late on the 26^/z, I did not leave 
 Mendoza till eight o'clock on the morning of the 
 27M. We very soon came to the Rio de Men- 
 doza, running wide and deep, a quarter of a mile 
 across. We were obliged to strip, and crossed 
 it with guides on very tall horses, that were in 
 attendance for the purpose : the luggage was put 
 on the top of their backs. I crossed over in my 
 shirt only : the courier, peon, and guides dis- 
 pensed with this incumbrance, and wished me to 
 do the same, fearing the horses might fall ; but 
 as the river was not very rapid, I knew I could 
 trust to my swimming, in the event of being put 
 to it. I am only astonished how the horses 
 kept their footing, for my saddle was under 
 water. A guide remained on each side of me to 
 * For this Tdblc sec the Appendix. 
 
262 CROSS RIO DE MENDOZA. 
 
 keep me in the proper tracks; we got over 
 very well, and travelled on at the Pampas pace, 
 for a distance of ninety-nine miles, until we 
 arrived at the post of Dormida del Negro, where 
 we put up for the night, and found a carriage 
 here with generals La Valle and Necochea, who 
 were on their way to Mendoza. They were po- 
 lite enough to invite me to partake of their sup- 
 per, which consisted of a tough boiled fowl, all 
 that the post afforded : had it not been for this 
 chance, I should have gone to bed supperless, 
 after such a long ride. 
 
 Friday, 2Sfh. Started at daylight : had a 
 very vicious kicking horse for a long stage of ten 
 leagues, which gave me a great deal of trouble. 
 Stopped at the post of Corral de Cuero, from 
 the heat of the sun, which was 120'' : started 
 again about half past four. Stopped at Desagua- 
 dero at nine, where we had a good supper, then 
 proceeded on to Represa, where we arrived at 
 midnight, performing one hundred'and twenty-six 
 miles this day. I was too tired to eat, drink, or un- 
 dress, so lay down on my poncho, with my saddle 
 
ARRIVE AT SAN LUIS. 263 
 
 uader my head^, and slept sound till broad day- 
 light next morning. 
 
 December 29fh. Without waiting for break- 
 fastj we started for San Luis, a distance of seven 
 leagues, and arrived there about half-past nine : 
 the road was bad, and the weather very sultry. 
 I went to the same house that I last put up at, 
 belonging to Don Joze Gil, there being no Fonda 
 in the place. I made a hearty breakfast, then 
 went to bed, and slept sound till the cool of the 
 evening, and much regretted having engaged the 
 courier, or I would have gone on without waiting 
 for him ; but, as the night turned out very rainy, 
 and we had a tremendous thunder storm, I re- 
 conciled myself to the delay, that every thing 
 was for the best. This day was very sultry ; at 
 eight, A.M. the thermometer stood at 80"; at 
 two, P.M. 94° in the shade. 
 
 Sunday, SO/'/j. \\^as a fine day, and much 
 cooler. Heard a report that robbers had been 
 seen between San Luis and the next post. I 
 had two good brace of pistols with me, one of 
 which I gave to my peon ; and making every 
 
264^ HEAD OF A ROBBER STUCK ON A POLE. 
 
 preparation, we started at five, P.M. being de- 
 tained till that time by the courier. The road was 
 very bad at first starting", as we were obliged to 
 pass along in the Rio de San Luis for some dis- 
 tance before opening the wild Pampas : dark 
 came on before we entered the plains. Passed 
 the spot where the French lady and gentleman 
 had been robbed, and for which the two men be- 
 fore-mentioned were shot; one of their heads 
 was hanging on the top of a pole ; it looked rather 
 appalling, swinging to the breeze, as the moon 
 shed its pale light over the ghastly countenance, 
 and was an awful sight on a wild plain^ with no- 
 thing else to attract the attention : the other head 
 was hanging at the post of Rio Quinto. I en- 
 deavoured to procure it, in order to present to 
 Dr. Spurzheim, the celebrated phrenologist, but 
 could not succeed, it being stuck there as an ex- 
 ample by order of the governor of San Luis, 
 and put under the charge of the postmaster. The 
 countenance, which was still perfect, appeared 
 to have been that of a very young man. Pro- 
 ceeded on, and arrived very late at the Morro 
 
PALL FROM A WILD HORSE. 265 
 
 St. Joze, making seventy-two miles since five, 
 P.M. 
 
 Monday, "^Xst. Started at daylight, with very 
 bad horses : the one I had was perfectly un- 
 manageable ; I rode him twenty-one miles within 
 an hour and three quarters. When walking 
 liim into the post of Porte Zuelo, he shyed at 
 some bright stones, which are very peculiar 
 thereabouts ; and, as T was sitting carelessly in 
 my saddle, thinking he was sufficiently tired, I lost 
 my seat, when he immediately started off at full 
 gallop, plunging and rearing with me on his neck. 
 The consequence was, I was thrown with great 
 violence on a projecting stone, and lay some mi- 
 nutes insensible, receiving a severe sprain in my 
 hip, so that I could not walk without assistance. 
 The post-mistress was very civil, and wished me 
 much not to proceed till the next morning : how- 
 ever, this not answering my purpose, they gave 
 me an excellent horse, when I was lifted upon 
 him, and found that while sitting in the saddle, 
 my leg was not so painful. In this manner I rode 
 
266 SWARMS OF LOCUSTS. 
 
 the whole day^ being assisted to mount and dis- 
 mount, and was fortunate enough to have very 
 good horses. This day we passed through mil- 
 lions of'locusts; the earth being literally alive with 
 them ; as we rode along^ the horses killed thou- 
 sands, and the smell arising from them was abo- 
 minable. Blessed England ! that is clear of this 
 pestilence. The ground was black for miles where 
 they had gone over. We slept at Santa Barbara, 
 performing one hundred and eleven miles this day. 
 Tuesday, Jem. 1st, 1828. Having horses 
 ready, we took our mate before daybreak, and 
 were off* at daylight^ wishing to perform a long 
 journey of a hundred and twenty miles. Our 
 object was to push to Esquena cle Meclrano, an 
 excellent post, and there take a good rest. The 
 day was oppressively hot, and we passed through 
 swarms of mosquitos that were very trouble- 
 some; but accomplished oiu- object, arriving 
 at the post at three o'clock, a distance of eighty- 
 four miles. Here we refreshed ourselves, and 
 remained till six. The master of the post gave 
 
ARRIVE AT FRAYLE MUERTO. 2G7 
 
 US excellent horses. I had his own, which was 
 a beautiful animal : they carried us into Frayle 
 Muerto with ease within two hours.* On this 
 stage I met my friend and travelling companion, 
 the Peruvian colonel. We were much surprized 
 to meet each other on the Pampas again. 
 
 At Frayle Muerto we laid in a fresh stock of 
 sugar, mate, bread, &c. and went on to the next 
 post, Zanjon, making in all one hundred and 
 twenty miles this day. Although tired and fa- 
 tigued, we could not get a wink of sleep all night 
 from being annoyed by the mosquitos. 
 
 Jan. '2nd. Started at seven, being detained 
 for horses. Oppressively hot, all wild Pampas, 
 not the slightest shelter, thermometer in shade 
 90", sun 130'\ Observed many wild deer and 
 ostriches. At the post of Lobaton, there was a 
 beautiful tame guanaco, the most elegant animal 
 I ever saw in my life. At night arrived at Des- 
 mochado, making ninety-nine miles. At this 
 post, which is a tolerably good one, we were 
 
 * Twenty-lour miles. 
 
268 SWARMS OF MOSQUITOS. 
 
 absolutely tortured with mosquitos. I never, in 
 my life, suffered such torment from them. I 
 tried to sleep inside and out, smoked the room 
 and shut the door till I was almost suffocated, 
 but all to no purpose. Not a moment's peace 
 could I get, so I got up and walked about the 
 whole night. I was not singular, for the natives 
 of the house, peons, and courier, all suffered 
 equally alike. 
 
 Jem. 3rd. Being moonlight, started at four 
 without breakfast. Passed through another flight 
 of locusts. On arriving at the next post, Can- 
 dalaria, found that I had left my note-book be- 
 hind. This would have been a severe loss to me, 
 so I offered twelve rials, (about six shillings stir- 
 ling,) for a man to ride back for it, a distance of 
 six leagues. The courier went on, while I waited 
 with my peon till the man's return : he was only 
 two hours and a half going there and back, a 
 distance of thirty-six miles, and was highly grati- 
 fied with his reward. In order to overtake the 
 courier, 1 was supplied with one of the best horses 
 
LEAVE THE COURIER. 269 
 
 in the corral, and galloped to the next post, Sa- 
 ladillo 6 Manantiales, a distance of fifteen miles in 
 fifty-nine minutes. This day was intolerably hot 
 and oppressive. The cargo horses delayed us 
 greatly, and I had much trouble to do to push the 
 courier on. Being anxious to catch the packet 
 that was on the point of sailing for England, 
 time was of great importance to me. How- 
 ever, I could not get on further than ninety- 
 three . miles, and slept at the Arroyo del Me- 
 dio, where we were again much troubled with 
 mosquitos. 
 
 Jan. 4/'/^. Started at daylight. Fearing I 
 should not be in time for the packet, and finding 
 great difficulty in getting the courier to move in 
 the heat of the day, I left him behind, and pro- 
 ceeded on w ith my peon. 
 
 At Ponte Zuelas met Mr. Newton, an English 
 merchant, who was proceeding to Mendoza. 
 From him I learnt that the packet had sailed, 
 or was about to sail, on the 2nd of January, 
 which was unusually early ; but she had made 
 an extraordinary quick passage out. I pro- 
 
270 STORM ON THE PAMPAS. 
 
 ceeded on, and stopt at La Cruz de Areco at 
 nine P.M., performing ninety-three miles. This 
 was a most miserable post. I had scarcely arrived, 
 when a most awful pampero came on, accompa- 
 nied with tremendous heavy rain, thunder, and 
 lightning. I fully expected the rancho would be 
 blown to atoms. Nearly half the roof came off, 
 and we were almost smothered with sand and dirt. 
 It is impossible to conceive with what fury these 
 pamperos come on, tearing up thick clouds of 
 sand, which completely darken the earth. My 
 peon went outside to bring in the saddles, when 
 he was literally obliged to hold on by some 
 posts, or he would have been carried off his legs 
 by the violence of the wind. Although not an- 
 noyed by mosquitos at this post, the pampero 
 prevented our getting much rest. 
 
 Jan. bth. Rainy morning, accompanied with 
 thunder and lightning; prepared to start at day- 
 light, but was prevented by a storm coming on. 
 To my surprise, just as I was starting, who should 
 come up but Mr. W. P. Robertson, whom I had 
 left at Valparaiso with his wife, on the point of 
 
OVERTAKEN BY MR. ROBERTSON. 271 
 
 sailing in the Ayacucha brig; but it appeared 
 that he had changed his mind, and left his wife to 
 go round the Horn, while he crossed the country. 
 We therefore, travelled on together through rain, 
 mud, and dirt. The roads were in a most dread- 
 ful state : it was certainly dangerous riding, but 
 who would not be anxious to get out of such 
 misery as soon as possible, and there is no other 
 method but galloping for it. Both our peons fell 
 together, when horses and men rolled over in the 
 mud, and were literally covered from head to 
 foot.* I forgot to mention a poor miner belong- 
 ing to the Famatina Mining Company, whom I had 
 picked up on the road the day before yesterday ; 
 he had three or four falls this day, and it was ab- 
 solutely impossible to tell what colour he was. It 
 rained without ceasing till three o'clock, still we 
 travelled through it, paying double posts in order 
 to get on. On arriving at the Puente de Marces, 
 to our mortification we found that here were no 
 horses to be procured : the ones we were on had 
 
 * One received a severe kick iu the eye. 
 
272 ARRIVE AT BUENOS AYRES. 
 
 been ridden at their full speed eighteen miles 
 over a very bad and heavy road : however, we 
 took them on to La Figura,, nine miles further:, 
 which is not a regular post : here also they in- 
 formed us that we could not be supplied with any ; 
 but after much persuasion, and paying what they 
 chose to demand, they gave us most excellent 
 ones, when we pushed on through a most misera- 
 ble road, full of water and pantanos, and arrived 
 in Buenos Ayres about eight o'clock, most mise- 
 rably wet, dirty, and fatigued, making eight}'- 
 seven miles : thus performing the journey across 
 the Pampas in eight days, that is, striking out 
 one day only, for the time 1 remained at San Luis ; 
 but I was detained there seven hours and a half 
 beyond that time, therefore averaged upwards of 
 one hundred and fifteen miles and a half per day. 
 Travelling this journey with the government cou- 
 rier, gave me an opportunity of correcting my list 
 of post houses, which I can now say are very ac- 
 curately laid down, making a total sum of three 
 hundred and eight long leagues across the Pam- 
 
DISTANCE ACROSS THE CONTINENT. 273 
 
 pas ; which, by adding the distance of the Cor- 
 dillera, which is one hundred and thirty-four 
 leagues and a half, gives four hundred and forty- 
 two leagues and a half, the journey the traveller 
 performs in crossing the continent of South Ame- 
 rica by the grand pass of Uspallata. 
 
274 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Seasons for Crossing the Cordillera — Hints to Travellers — 
 Peculiarities ot" the Natives of the Pampas — How to Gain 
 their Goodwill — Reasons for Travelling so Rapidly — Di- 
 rections for Preserving the Skin in a Hot Sun or Cold Wind 
 — Ladies of Buenos Ayres Compared with those of Lima, 
 Chili, &c. — Description of a Pampero — Washer-women of 
 Buenos Ayres — Religion at Buenos Ayres Compared with 
 Peru — Effects of Distributing the Bible in Peru — Descrip- 
 tion of South American Houses. 
 
 Having thus completed two distinct journies 
 across the vast plains of South America and 
 Great Cordillera of the Andes, at two different 
 seasons of the year, at a time when the latter is 
 admitted by all travellers and natives of the 
 country, to be most dangerous to pass — that is, 
 the very depth of winter, when the journey is 
 obliged to be undertaken on foot, so that it is 
 
SEASONS FOR CROSSING THE CORDILLERA. 275 
 
 termed closed ; and that of its first opening in 
 summer, when the snow melts in the mountains, 
 swelling the rivers, to that degree, that they 
 rush down with amazing velocity, which renders 
 them extremely dangerous to cross. 
 
 It may therefore be necessary for my readers 
 to be informed, which are, and which are not, the 
 best months in the year for crossing the Cordil- 
 lera of the Andes. For this purpose, I gained 
 the best information both at Santiago and Men- 
 doza ; and, from my own observation, and what 
 I gleaned from the arrieros and peons of the 
 mountains, the following statement will be found 
 pretty correct, and may be depended upon with 
 safety. 
 
 The couriers, arrieros, and natives of the 
 country, divide the seasons of the Cordillera into 
 two only — summer and winter ; calling it closed 
 in winter, and open in summer ; that is, closed 
 from June till December, inclusive; and open 
 from January till May, inclusive. But, as the 
 beginning and ending of these seasons (which is 
 
 t2 
 
276 SEASONS FOR CROSSING THE CORDILLERA. 
 
 taking too wide a range) are at times attended 
 with some difficulty and risk, according as they 
 are forward or backward, I have divided them 
 into four, wliich may be depended upon with 
 greater safety, and are as follows. 
 
 Summer — January, February, March, April. 
 Autumn — May, June. 
 
 Winter — July, August, September, October. 
 Spring — November, December. 
 
 During the summer months, (as above,) the 
 Cordillera may be passed with ease and safety, 
 the passes of the mountains being entirely clear 
 of snow ; the rivers low, and easy of passage, 
 and no fear of snow storms. 
 
 Autumn. Generally speaking, it may be 
 passed easily ; but instances occur of unsettled 
 weather in May, and the snow setting in early in 
 June ; in which case, storms may be appre- 
 hended ; therefore it would be advisable for the 
 traveller to provide himself with a supply of pro- 
 
SEASONS FOR CROSSING THE CORDILLERA. 277 
 
 visions and charcoal during these months, in the 
 event of such a casualty. 
 
 Winter. These are the dreary months when it 
 is totally closed, and impassable to every thing 
 save man alone. I have already said sufficient 
 of a winter in the Andes, to induce the traveller 
 to take every precaution in having his wants 
 supplied before he enters them. One thing I 
 would recommend to be carried with him — (he 
 may probably recollect the description of my de- 
 scent down the Cuesta de Concual ; if not, let him 
 turn to page 1 53,) — that is, a few fathoms of good 
 line ; for it would be found very useful in many 
 cases. The arrieros generally carry with them an 
 iron crow-bar; now, in going down so steep a 
 descent as the above, tiiis bar may be thrust deep 
 and firmly into the snow, and, by attaching the 
 line to it, the descent might be performed with- 
 out much danger ; it would also be of great ser- 
 vice in ascending steep and slippery places, a 
 peon being sent up first to fix it, and make fast 
 the line. Having this stand-by, would inspire 
 
278 SEASONS FOR CROSSING THE CORDILLERA. 
 
 the traveller with confidence to venture over 
 many places, which otherwise he might feel a 
 little timid at : I know that I regretted much not 
 having one with rae. 
 
 Spring, These months the rivers are swollen 
 and rapid, particularly if it has been a severe 
 winter and late season, as that of 1827, when I 
 passed : then the torrents came down with great 
 fury, and crossing them was attended with con- 
 siderable danger and risk ; but, in ordinary sea- 
 sons, these months are tolerable. 
 
 Upon the whole, I would never cross the 
 Andes in any other season but the summer, un- 
 less compelled to do so from great emergency. 
 Next to that, May and December would he, 
 the months I should choose, as they may, gene- 
 rally speaking, be accounted good. Thus far 
 has it been my particular endeavour to convey 
 to the traveller a faithful representation of the 
 various difficulties he may have to encounter in 
 crossing the continent of South America, with- 
 out adding, or detracting from any circumstance 
 
NATIVES OF THE PAMPAS. 279 
 
 as it occurred to me at the time ; for I have al- 
 ready observed, and which it is of importance 
 the reader should bear in mind, that I set all 
 my observations down in my journal at the mo- 
 ment of occurrence, with the various feelings 
 I then possessed : this may in some measure 
 account, for what appears to be much tauto- 
 logy ; but as it is intended principally as a com- 
 panion or guide for the traveller, I feel assured 
 those particularities will be found more useful to 
 him than otherwise ; for, should he deem it 
 worth the trouble of carrying with him, he will 
 find a faithful representation of every spot he 
 comes to. The impression which I received of 
 the natives of the Pampas, on first crossing, was 
 only more strongly confirmed on my return. 
 What will mostly annoy the traveller, should he 
 be in great haste, will be their apparent apathy ; 
 but he must reconcile himself to this, and not at- 
 tempt to push them by hasty words or expres- 
 sions ; if he does, he will be sure to defeat his 
 own purpose. Mild and persuasive language 
 
280 HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. 
 
 can alone influence them to do what he wants. 
 As to bribery, they have no idea what it means, 
 and do not understand it. A man will gain their 
 goodwill much more by a timely present of a few 
 cigars, than he would by offering them four or 
 five dollars. Frequently, after a hard day's ride, 
 have I arrived at a post, ravenous for the want 
 of something to eat, not having (which was fre- 
 quently the case) tasted food for the whole day ; 
 and, to my mortification, in answer to all my en- 
 quiries for what was to be had, received the mo- 
 notonous, appalling answer of '^ No hay, Seiior," 
 there is nothing. It would be uttered with that de- 
 gree of non-chalance sufficient to vex any man, par- 
 ticularly when he is hungry and tired ; but I knew 
 my alternative, and would sit quietly for a quarter 
 of an hour or so, enter into conversation with the 
 gaucho, give him all the news, present a few 
 cigars to his family, then slip out — '' Senor, tengo, 
 mucha hambre," "I am very hungiy," and all 
 would be settled ; if there really was any thing 
 to be had, I would be sure to get it. The fact is. 
 
HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. 281 
 
 they have no idea of being driven, but may be 
 led very easily ; but as to bribery, (that being 
 a vice which has not yet crept amongst the sim- 
 ple gauchosj had I attempted it, they would not 
 have understood me; and I found from expe- 
 rience, that my cigars carried greater weight 
 with them, in procuring a favpur, than all my 
 dollars would have done. There is certainly a 
 nobleness in these men, far surpassing what a 
 European might imagine. Often have I read in 
 their intelligent countenances, all that their pride 
 would speak, when offered money to do any 
 thing; seeming to say— " No ! I'll do it for you, 
 but I won't take your money for it." Should we 
 find more than this in civilized England ? 
 
 Again, when I wanted a good horse, I would 
 take my bridle in my hand to the corral, offer 
 the peon that might be there a paper cigar;, and 
 hand him my own. at the same time, to light it 
 from ; then give him my " freno," bridle, with the 
 remark, ^'Estoy muy cansado," "I am very tired," 
 and it would be quite sufficient ; I would be sure to 
 
282 REASONS FOR TRAVELLING 
 
 get a good horse. These remarks appear to be 
 trifles; but, in my opinion, speak much to the 
 character of the natives, and may probably 
 prove serviceable to the traveller, which is my 
 principal object in offering them. 
 
 It may now be a matter of surprise to some of 
 my readers, why travellers should gallop over 
 the Pampas at the amazing rate they do. In or- 
 der, in some measure, to account for this, it must 
 be taken into consideration, the total discomfort 
 and wretchedness which reigns throughout the 
 dreary waste ; and it may well be imagined, that 
 a man has no inclination to remain there longer 
 than he can possibly help. It must also be taken 
 into consideration, that, probably at all times, 
 there may be Indians, or Monteneros, hovering 
 about ; and if, by any chance, they get informa- 
 tion of a traveller being on the road, no doubt 
 but they would endeavour to waylay him ; there- 
 fore the best and most secure way of avoiding 
 this, is by riding at that rate which would prevent 
 them (even should they get such information) 
 from being able to overtake you : added to this. 
 
so RAPIDLY ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 283 
 
 the natural pace of the horses is such, that really 
 the animals appear to be sensible of the journey 
 they have to perform, and seem to be as eager 
 to get over it as the riders themselves ; nei- 
 ther is their labour so great as may be imagined, 
 for there is no up-hill or down-hill, windings 
 or turnings, obstructions of blocked-up roads, 
 or any thing of the sort : in short, nothing to 
 impede the straight-forward progi'ess ; and also 
 there is a peculiar pleasure and buoyancy of 
 spirits in riding over a dreary waste, with no- 
 thing to attract the attention ; the mind gets ab- 
 sorbed in pleasing reflections, building castles 
 in the air, which are scarcely broken by the 
 galloping of the horse, or till the post-house rises 
 in the horizon of the desolate plain, like a strange 
 sail seen from a ship at sea, which serves only 
 to break the monotony for a few passing mo- 
 ments, until he changes his horse, and gallops 
 on again, anticipating and calculating how long it 
 may be before he gets to the end of his monotonous 
 journey : thus it is, having no inducement to stop, 
 
284 HOW TO PRESERVE THE SKIN 
 
 onward he goes^, from daylight till dark, as long 
 as he can get relays of horses ; never thinking of 
 the journey he has performed, only how nmcli 
 more remains to be accomplished. But for my 
 own part, I was differently situated, being 
 obliged to ride hard in order to save the packet; 
 had this not been the case, I do not think that I 
 should have been in such a mighty hurry, or ex- 
 posed my fair face to the sun's scorching rays in 
 the manner I did ; and, but (don't let me shock 
 the fair sex) for greasing it well, instead of ap- 
 plying water and soap, I should have had all 
 the skin off long before my arrival at Buenos 
 Ayres : this, by way of a hint to travellers, is a 
 secret which I learnt during my travels in South 
 Africa, and which, now it is out, may account 
 for my not losing all the skin off my nose, in 
 crossing the Cordillera, during the severe winter. 
 Thanks to a couple of inches of tallow-candle, I 
 saved it all without crack or blemish : it is an 
 excellent cosmetic for rendering the skin pleas- 
 ingly soft and fair ; for sunnncr or winter. 
 
IN HOT OR COLD WEATHER. 285 
 
 I can strongly recommend it ; and being per- 
 fectly innocent in its nature, may be used with- 
 out injury to the complexion. No doubt this 
 valuable discovery will be highly approved by 
 the faculty in general. 
 
 J now made up my mind that I should have 
 some considerable detention at Buenos Ayres, 
 at least a month, and thought my case pro- 
 vokingly hard, particularly as the packet was in 
 sight on the day of my arrival. 
 
 Out of compliment to my many friends at 
 Buenos Ayres, from whom I received the most 
 marked attention during my stay, I don't know 
 whether to say I was agi'eeably surprised or 
 disappointed. But much to the astonishment of 
 every body, the next packet. His Majesty's brig 
 Hope, arrived on the 12th of January, just a 
 week after my own arrival, having made a very 
 extraordinary quick passage out. 
 
 During my short stay at Buenos Ayres this 
 time, I could plainly perceiv^e that the ladies 
 were entitled to the palm in preference to those 
 
^86 LADIES OF BUENOS AYRES. 
 
 either of Lima, Mendoza, or Chili. Indepen- 
 dent of being much handsomer, they are de- 
 cidedly better educated, more accomplished, 
 amiable, and moral. The contrast between those 
 of Lima and Buenos Ayres is very great; the 
 former are indolent, vain, and extravagant to an 
 amazing degree ; while the the latter are indus- 
 trious, amiable, and economical ; which virtues, 
 independent of their personal attractions and 
 accomplishments, did not appear to be lost on 
 my own countrymen, for the marriages between 
 the English and natives of Buenos Ayres ap- 
 pear to be very great. From one family that I 
 was living with, there were no less than four 
 daughters married to English merchants ; those 
 and several others with whom I was acquainted, 
 appeared to live very happily together. 
 
 The climate of Buenos Ayres approximates 
 much more to the European than either Chili or 
 Lima, not being near so relaxing or debilita- 
 ting, which may account for the roses to be 
 found in the cheeks of the Buenos Ayres ladies. 
 
COMPARED WITH THOSE OF PERU, &C. 287 
 
 which are all faded in those of the other climates. 
 The average temperature in summer (Decem- 
 ber, January, and February) is about 84". 
 85" was the average during my stay from 
 the 5th till the 29th of January. Even this tem- 
 perature is rendered pleasant by the refresh- 
 ing breezes from the sea and Pampas. Now 
 and then, when a few days of oppressive 
 heat hangs about the place, it will be swept 
 away by a violent pampero or pampas wind, 
 which drives along the plain from the SW. with 
 amazing fury, sweeping clouds of sand and dust 
 before it, accompanied with heavy rain, thunder 
 and lightning. During my stay, two of these 
 winds occurred. They were first announced by 
 black gathering clouds, accompanied with slight 
 whirlwinds, blowing the dust about in all direc- 
 tions, which was the signal for all windows and 
 shops to be closed j presently after, it came 
 rolling into the town with great fury, darkening 
 the face of the earth ; and sweeping out to sea, 
 the sand is sometimes blown on board of ships 
 lying in the outer roads, a distance of seven or 
 
288 WASHERWOMEN OP BUENOS AYRES. 
 
 eight miles from the shore. This violence 
 continues about two hours; it then generally 
 passes off, and terminates in a fresh gale from 
 the SW. leaving the air particularly cool and 
 refreshing. 
 
 All the washing at Buenos Ayres is performed 
 on the beach^ or I should say on the rocks, for 
 there is no beach, by black slave girls ; and the 
 clothes are spread on the rocks to dry. On land- 
 ing, it has all the appearance of a fair, and 1 
 cannot give a better description than quoting- 
 one from a work entitled " A Five Years' Resi- 
 dence in Buenos Ayres," written by an English- 
 man. " The washerwomen of Buenos Ayres 
 present a singular spectacle to a stranger ; they 
 pursue their avocation on the beach, and this 
 soap-sud army extends for nearly two miles. 
 All the washing of the town is performed there, 
 by black women slaves, and servants : at a 
 distance upon the water, it looks like surf break - 
 upon the shore ; they wash well, extending the 
 linen upon the ground to dry. Robberies 
 amongst them are punished by ducking. A wed- 
 
WASHER-WOMEN OP BUENOS AYRES. 289 
 
 ding, or other joyous ceremony, is celebrated 
 with African magnificence ; a canopy is formed 
 from the linen, and the heroine of the day placed 
 under it; red handkerchiefs for flags are carried 
 upon sticks, with saucepans, drums, &cc. They 
 dance pas-seuls, after the mode of Guinea and 
 Mozambique I presume. The music consists of 
 singing and clapping of hands ; thunders of ap- 
 plause follow — Parisot and Angiolini never re- 
 ceived more ; a general shout ends the enter- 
 tainments. Their adherence to African customs 
 is a peculiar trait. At the approach of rain 
 confusion seems at its height, and '^ chaos come 
 again;' the ladies hurrying in all directions to 
 save their linen from the pitiless storm." 
 
 The landing at Buenos Ay res is very bad, 
 being obliged to get out in large carts ; for the 
 boat touches the ground sometimes at a distance 
 of more than a quarter of a mile from the shore. 
 Not unfrequently will these carts upset amongst 
 the rocks, discharging their whole contents of 
 passengers and luggage into the water ; although 
 
 u 
 
290 RELIGION AT BUENOS AYRES. 
 
 there is no clanger of being drowned, it is not 
 very pleasant to get a ducking, and have lug- 
 gage spoiled into the bargain. There is an 
 abominable practice on the beach, of men riding 
 into the water on horseback quite naked, which 
 is very offensive to the eyes of females who may 
 pass that way ; but they gallop amongst the 
 washerwomen, very much to the danger of the 
 clothes, without any ceremony. 
 
 The Protestant religion is tolerated at Buenos 
 Ayres, and places of worship allowed to be 
 built. The English have a very neat church, 
 which was formerly a Catholic chapel, the clergy- 
 man is a Mr. Armstrong, a pious, worthy man. 
 It is generally well attended, and a most pleasing 
 sight was it to behold an English congregation 
 assembled together in a foreign land, to render 
 praise to their Maker in their own language and 
 forms, and with the permission of the government 
 of a Catholic country ; this is certainly a step 
 gained towards improvement, and a vast deal 
 from ancient prejudices. God alone can judge 
 
PRIESTS IN SOUTH AMERICA. 291 
 
 how far it may be permitted to extend. The in- 
 fluence of the priests over the minds of the people, 
 is evidently fast falling to decay in many parts of 
 South America. Religious processions, the food 
 and bait of the lower order, are rapidly dwind- 
 ling away. At Buenos Ayres there are none, 
 in Chili very few; at Lima only are they car- 
 ried on in any considerable degree : yet the 
 priests, instead of being respected, as they for- 
 merly were, have lost all their influence, and are 
 held in the greatest contempt ; their society is 
 shunned and despised by the respectable natives, 
 and they do not hesitate at openly calling them 
 a set of rogues and thieves. What all this will 
 ultimately lead to, the " Lord alone can tell.'* 
 It is to be hoped that the light of the true gospel 
 may shortly spread and take root in that vast 
 city, containing upwards of one hundred thou- 
 sand souls. 
 
 Finding in an English newspaper an extract 
 of a letter from Peru, and as it confirms so much 
 of what I have been stating I shall here quote it. 
 
 u2 
 
292 DISTRIBUTION OF THE 
 
 "^ Peru. — Before I close this letter, I must 
 inform you of a very remarkable occurrence 
 which took place at Arica. Some of the inha- 
 bitants came on board to see the vessel ; on their 
 leaving, I presented each of them with a Spanish 
 bible. A priest, the same evening, came into 
 one of their houses, and found a gentleman 
 reading the bible ; this instantly attracted his 
 notice, and he demanded it from him, which was 
 refused ; a scuffle ensued, and the furious priest 
 caught it from him, summoned him before the 
 governor, who gave directions (influenced by 
 the priest) that it should be burned, which was 
 done immediately, in the most public manner. 
 A search was made for more, but the inhabitants 
 hid them ; only one was discovered. The day 
 after, about ten in the morning, a furious hurri- 
 cane of wind came on instantaneously, which 
 blew some of the smaller vessels from their an- 
 chors, covered the town with dust, and left it 
 in perfect darkness. The inhabitants, expecting 
 
BIBLE IN PERU. 293 
 
 some awful judgment, either shut themselves 
 up in their houses or churches, using their usual 
 incantations or prayers to their saints ; this conti- 
 nued several hours, and it is necessary to remark, 
 on that part of the coast of Peru, it never rains ; 
 the wind is always very moderate, and such an 
 event was never known. When I came on 
 shore, shortly after it subsided, I told them it 
 was a judgment from God, for burning his word. 
 This opinion they themselves had already formed. 
 A universal enquiry was consequently made, 
 whether I had any more bibles. The news 
 spread all along the coast. I distributed five 
 cases among them, and might have disposed of 
 all I had, but preferred keeping some for Lima. 
 A few days after, the prefector of Arequipa, 
 next in rank to Bolivar, came to Arica to 
 inspect the Custom House department, and re- 
 gulate the duties. He was informed of this 
 outrage committed by the priest against liberty 
 of conscience. The prefector requested me to 
 
294 EFFECTS OF THE BIBLE. 
 
 give him two copies of the Spanish bible, which 
 I did ; one was sent to the bishop of Arequipa, 
 to know why that book should be destroyed, the 
 other was retained for his own use. After I 
 left, he gave directions, I understand, for a cir- 
 culation of the bible, and of all religious books, 
 free of any duty, or incumbrance. The priest 
 is in great disgrace; and despised by the people. 
 The effect which this may produce on the coast 
 of Peru, no' one can calculate but He who 
 caused it." 
 
 Well may the writer of the above observe, 
 ^' that no one can calculate the effect that the 
 circulation of the bible may produce in Peru, 
 but He who caused it." As a further step towards 
 it, I hope shortly to hear that the English resi- 
 dents in Lima have exerted themselves and ob- 
 tained the same privilege of exercising their 
 religion, as those in Buenos Ayres have done, 
 and which, from my observation on this impor- 
 tant subject during my very short stay there, I 
 
TOWNS OF SOUTH AMERICA. 295 
 
 do not apprehend would be very difficult of 
 accomplishment. 
 
 The short time I spent at the different South 
 American towns I passed through, did not give 
 me sufficient leisure to make such observations, 
 as I could have wished. A stranger on first 
 entering any of them, would be sadly disap- 
 pointed at seeing the houses, for they possess 
 all the gloomy appearance of prisons ; instead of 
 being struck by dazzling glass windows glitter- 
 ing in the rays of the sun, nothing but gloomy 
 iron bars meet his eye, and the doors which 
 lead into a large court-yard, or patio, are huge 
 and massive, reminding one of the gates of a 
 prison. Notwithstanding both these unsightly 
 appearances, they are highly requisite in such a 
 country ; the former for coolness and free ad- 
 mission of air during the oppressive heat of 
 summer, and the latter for security during the 
 troublesome times of revolutions or invasions, 
 for when the outer door is closed, the house 
 within itself forms a little citadel. The sight of 
 
296 TOWNS OF SOUTH AMERICA. 
 
 one town in South America would convey the 
 idea of most of them. In the centre is a Plaza, 
 or Square, where generally is situated the resi- 
 dence of the governor, also the public buildings, 
 offices, &c. From this square, the streets 
 branch off in straight lines, which are intersected 
 by others at right-angles, forming cuadras or 
 squares, consisting of about four English acres. 
 When a person enquires where ** such a one 
 lives ?" they will reply so many cuadras to the 
 right, left, &c. ; and it will seldom be found that 
 the natives know the names of more than two or 
 three streets in the whole town, which to a 
 foreigner is very annoying. 
 
297 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Leave Buenos Ayres — Run on the Chico Bank — Description 
 of a Sliip on shore — Arrive at Monte Video~An-ive at Rio 
 Janeiro — Emperor of Brazils^ Queen of Portugal^ &c. — 
 Theatres in South America compared with those of Eng- 
 land — Reflection on the rising of the North Star — Stormy- 
 Weather — Arrive at St. Michael's — Leave St. Michael's — 
 Arrive in Enofland. 
 
 The time now drawing near for the packet's de- 
 parture, I embarked on the 29^/^ January, 
 1828, on which day she sailed. The next morning 
 while running for Monte Video, with a fine fair 
 breeze, she struck on the Chico bank, well 
 known to most mariners who frequent the Rio 
 de la Plata. It was blowing pretty fresh and we 
 had a great many passengers on board, French, 
 English, Portuguese and Spanish, many of whom 
 had probably never been placed in such a situa- 
 
298 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 tion before ; and although there was no danger to 
 be apprehended, it was pretty evident from the 
 countenances of most of them, that plenty of 
 fear was entertained; and their different an- 
 tics in endeavouring to make themselves useful, 
 only added ridicule to the scene of confusion al- 
 ready at its height, from hoisting out the boats, 
 shortening sail, carrying out anchors, &c., while 
 at every bump the ship would give, an involun- 
 tary exclamation of ^^ Oh dear me !" would be 
 heard from amongst them, accompanied with a 
 most piteous and beseeching look on the sailors 
 around, as much as to say, " what will be- 
 come of us \" but not daring to ask any ques- 
 tions from Jack, for fear of meeting with an 
 awkward rebuff, he being too much engaged in 
 the duties of the ship, to pay any attention to 
 the land lubbers, as he would call them. 
 
 The confusion of a ship being on shore, and 
 the impression it must make upon those who 
 have never witnessed a scene of the sort, cannot 
 easily be imagined. The leadsman is in the 
 
A SHIP ON SHORE. 299 
 
 chains chaunting the depth of water, to the atten- 
 tive ears of the captain and master, who are 
 conning the ship to his cry of quarter-less-four, 
 &c. ; when all at once, while under full sail, she 
 strikes. ^' Holloa ! what's that V' cries the cap- 
 tain. '^^ The ship's on shore," reply a dozen 
 voices in the same breath. " What water," 
 cries the captain? " Quarter-less-two, sir," is 
 the reply. " What water forward? what water 
 abaft ? what water to starboard? what water to 
 port?" to all which questions various sailors fly 
 to answer. ^^ Two fathoms, sir — quarter-less- 
 two," &c. Again she strikes. Now confusion 
 begins, various orders and the boatswain's pipe 
 are heard in all directions. ^' Turn the hands up 
 to shorten sail"— ^^ Aye, aye, sir !'' ^^ Man the 
 fore and main clue garnets, top-gallant clue-lines," 
 &LC. " All manned, sir." " Up courses, in top- 
 gallant sails." '^ Away go the sails," flapping in 
 the wind till silenced by their various buntlines 
 and cluelines drawn close to the yards ; — bump 
 again she goes. " Lower away the topsails." 
 
300 DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 " Turn the hands up, out boats." Down fly the 
 yards, the shrill pipe is heard again ; '•^ All hands 
 out, boats ahoy !" Away fly the pigs, sheep, 
 ducks, geese, turkies, fowls, &c. that may hap- 
 pen to be in the launch; their cackling, &c. 
 drowns the officers' voices : " Throw them over- 
 board, down below, any where to stop their 
 noise." " Clear away the kedge anchor. Get 
 the stream cable up from below." Up it comes, 
 roaring across the hatchway. The anchor is 
 lowered to the stern of the launch ; the other boats 
 are sent off*, to sound round the vessel for the 
 deepest water; when that is found, there the an- 
 chor is dropped. " Now heave away on the cable, 
 my lads." '^ The anchor's coming home, sir." * 
 Harder she strikes still ; other orders are given : 
 " Stand by to start all the water below — man 
 the pumps — see the guns all clear for throwing 
 overboard." Previous to these orders being put 
 into execution the sailors are cheered up to " Try 
 her once more: heave again, my lads. ''^ She 
 
 * That is, will not hold on. 
 
A SHIP ON SHORE. 301 
 
 holds, she holds ! hurra ! my hearties, bravo ! 
 There she starts, there she goes. She 's off, she 's 
 off." " Hold fast the guns, never mind the 
 water/' " Another heave, my boys, huiTa! and 
 she floats/' -' There she is, all your own." 
 " Now turn the hands up to make sail, hoist 
 away the topsails, man the fore and main tacks, 
 &c." " All manned, sir." ** Haul onboard" is 
 the word, and away she goes again, all right, 
 without further damage than probably knocking 
 a little of the false keel off her bottom, which a 
 few hours in dock will put in order again. 
 
 Such is a slight description of a vessel being 
 on shore where there is no real danger; the reader 
 must imagine to himself what the change of scene 
 would be, where there is danger attending such 
 a disaster. 
 
 After remaining on shore about four hours, 
 going through the scene as described above, she 
 was hove off without sustaining any perceptible 
 damage ; and the following day arrived at Monte 
 Video, where we remained till the 2d of February, 
 
302 ARRIVE AT RIO JANEIRO. 
 
 then sailed for Rio de Janeiro. Amongst other 
 passengers, came on board the President's 
 brother, Senor Garcia, said to be the bearer of 
 a complaint to the Emperor of Brazils against 
 their admiral, for not rendering the blockade of 
 Buenos Ayres more effective. It is certainly 
 most ridiculously absurd, to see such a squadron 
 as they possess in the Rio de la Plata, not able 
 to do any thing, or even make any attempt to ex- 
 terminate brave Admiral Brown's little squadron. 
 This brave man's name carries terror to his ene- 
 mies wherever he goes, and he is very justly 
 called " a host within himself." The feats which 
 *he has performed with the few boats only which 
 he possesses, (for they scarcely deserve the name 
 of any thing else,) are incredible, and scarcely 
 possible to be conceived. 
 
 We had a pleasant passage of twelve days 
 down to Rio, arriving on the 14th. Our stay 
 was only three days, but I visited the opera for 
 the purpose of getting sight of the Emperor, 
 who happened to be there, accompanied by his 
 
EMPEROR OF THE BRAZILS. 303 
 
 two daughters, the Queen of Portugal and the 
 Infanta. The former is about ten years of age, and 
 the latter an interesting little child of six or seven : 
 they were very plainly dressed, and as they sat 
 in their magnificent box in the centre of the 
 theatre, were to be seen to great advantage. The 
 interior of the house is very elegant, consisting 
 of four tiers of boxes on each side of the Em- 
 peror's, which occupies the whole front of the 
 theatre, excepting four small boxes just above 
 it. The grand entrance to the pit is underneath 
 it, and it was certainly most superbly fitted up, 
 with chandeliers, pier glasses, tables, chairs, &c. 
 having all the appearance of an elegant drawing- 
 room; and being quite open in front, with the 
 exception of a light gilt railing, they were quite 
 exposed to the full view of the audience. 
 Whenever the curtain dropt the audience stood 
 up out of respect to the Emperor ; those in the 
 pit facing him, at which time he would always 
 rise and come forward with the little Queen and 
 child. He wore a plain blue coat, without star or 
 
304 EMPEROR OF THE BRAZILS. 
 
 mark of distinction of any sort, with white 
 trowsers and shoes, and but for the gentlemen 
 in waiting never sitting down or coming for- 
 ward, it was impossible to distinguish one from 
 the other. The weather being very warm, he 
 used a plain white fan during the whole of the 
 opera, which, by the bye, is customary among 
 the gentlemen in South America. The Queen 
 is a very pretty little girl, with flaxen hair, and 
 remarkably fair. She was dressed quite like a 
 little old maid, very plain, wearing a prim close 
 cottage bonnet. The pretty Infanta was the 
 gayest of them all, being dressed just like an 
 English child of the same age, with petticoat- 
 trowsers and sash, her bright flaxen hair flow- 
 ing in long ringlets over her shoulders. The 
 Emperor is a handsome young man, about thirty 
 years of age, with very dark hair and large 
 whiskers. He is not very particular with respect 
 to etiquette, for he was talking promiscuously to 
 the ladies and gentlemen in the boxes on each 
 side of him, and they appeared to be very fami- 
 
EMPEROR OP THE BRAZILS. 305 
 
 liar with him, he is frequently to be seen driving 
 about the town in his tilbury, or riding on horse- 
 back, in plain clothes, with only one servant; 
 a vast contrast this to his mother, the dowager 
 Queen of Portugal, who never appeared in 
 public without the greatest parade, and whoever 
 passed her carriage, be they who they might, 
 were obliged to kneel down if it were ever so 
 dirty. 
 
 The Emperor is a very active man, being up 
 every morning by five o'clock. At six he may 
 always be seen publicly bathing amongst the 
 towns people, at the small island of Cobres, on 
 which is a small fort opposite the palace stairs, 
 from whence he starts in his boat, undresses be- 
 fore everybody, and jumps into the water, swim- 
 ming amongst hundreds of others that are con- 
 stantly there about that hour ; it being the public 
 bathing-place of Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 The theatres in South America are widely 
 different from what ours are in England. A 
 female may enter them without having her ears 
 
306 THEATRES OF SOUTH AMERICA. 
 
 offended by coarse vulgar language from the gal- 
 lery, or her modesty insulted by commg in con- 
 tact with women of notorious bad character. The 
 greatest regularity and order is observed. There 
 are no gentlemen in the upper story bawling out 
 for music, &c. nor fear of those in the pit being 
 saluted by showers of orange-peelings, nut-shells, 
 and the like. The pit is divided into seats ge- 
 nerally lined with red baize^ so that every person, 
 on entering, takes his place, and it is impossible 
 for him to enter without having a ticket, which 
 prevents its being crowded, for there are never 
 more issued than seats to correspond. The ladies 
 are also separated from the gentlemen, except in 
 the boxes; it being considered derogatory, I 
 suppose^ for a female to be seen in the pit, not- 
 withstanding it is the best part of the house, but 
 a place is assigned for them, in all I saw, (except 
 Rio,) called a casuela, or gallery above the boxes, 
 which has a very singular appearance, to see so 
 many females without a single gentleman amongst 
 them. 
 
THEATRES OF SOUTH AMERICA. 307 
 
 Whenever the curtain drops, the house is as 
 quiet as a church, and instead of that din we are 
 constantly annoyed with in England, it is the 
 most quiet time of the whole performance. 
 
 The thermometer in Rio harbour stood at 84'\ 
 on the shore 89^ and 90^ 
 
 At daylight on the 18^^ we weighed anchor, 
 and being calm, were towed out of the harbour 
 by the boats of the British men-of-war. On 
 making an offing got the breeze from the NE. 
 which, with little variation, carried us up to the 
 equator crossing it on the \2th March, in longi- 
 tude BS'* W. with a light breeze and pleasant 
 temperate weather. I have to regret not being 
 able to register the temperature any further, 
 my thermometer being broken by a mischievous 
 monkey we had on board, but should imagine 
 that it was not higher than 82" for the three or 
 four days that we were within a degree of the 
 equator. 
 
 As I had often heard it contended that the 
 
 x2 
 
308 RISINO OF THE NORTH STAR. 
 
 north or pole-star could be seen from the line, 
 I this time took particular notice of it, not that 
 I could ever credit such a thing, for it is well 
 known, that its altitude between the tropics is 
 very nearly the latitude, therefore it would be 
 impossible to see it until rising nearly two or 
 even three degrees above the horizon, the first 
 distinct sight T got of it was in latitude 3^ 30' N. 
 On my passage out I lost it in latitude 4" 30' N. 
 but then it was not very clear weather. The 
 rising of this star is always looked forward to, by 
 the sailor, with feelings of delight on his home- 
 ward bound voyage. Often have I watched most 
 anxiously for its appearance, thinking of those 
 friends, whose hemisphere it never forsakes. 
 And while gazing over the vessel's side, marking 
 her progress through the sparkling billows, the 
 pleasing images of fancy would steal upon my 
 senses, till lost to passing scenes around, the 
 thoughts of home would absorb every faculty 
 with all the delusive delights of reality: 
 
ARRIVE AT ST. .MICHAEL's. 309 
 
 Thou ott forgetful would I stand. 
 Nor crew, nor ship, nor ocean see ; 
 
 And often would ray heart demand. 
 If friends beloved thus thought of me. 
 
 At the commencement of April, when in 
 latitncle 35" N. we experienced disagreeable, 
 cold, stormy weather. Thermometer, I should 
 say, as low as 48°. On the ^th, it increased to 
 a heavy gale, on which day we passed the islands 
 of Fayal and Pico ; the tremendous squalls of 
 wind, that came o(I" those islands, reduced us 
 to our close-reefed main-topsail and foresail. 
 At night the sea had all the appearance of 
 living fire, and the squalls flew past us like 
 hurricanes. On the 5//^ it moderated a little, 
 but the wind headed us, with a high cross sea 
 running, so that we could not lay our course. At 
 night it blew again as hard as ever, and not being 
 able to weather the island of St. Michael's, we 
 lay to till daylight next morning, then ran in for 
 the anchorage, blowing tremendously hard. 
 The wind was too violent to cast anchor, so we 
 lay oflf till the afternoon when it moderated, and 
 
310 DESCRIPTION OF ST. MICHAEL'S. 
 
 then anchored off the town^ or rather city of St. 
 Felippe, which has a very pretty appearance 
 from the sea, the houses and churches all being- 
 built of stone, and whitewashed, with red tiled 
 roofs. The land being high, gave us a full view of 
 all the cultivated spots separated by stone walls, 
 having all the appearance of a coloured map, 
 from their different tints of verdure; on nearing 
 these walls on shore, they have a gloomy appear- 
 ance, which is rendered very striking by the 
 want of timber. This island, although only 
 thirty-five miles long, and in many places not 
 more than eight broad, contains eighty thousand 
 inhabitants. It appears, while passing along it, 
 one mass of cultivation, not a spot to be seen 
 but what is walled in for that purpose. The city 
 contains about twenty thousand inhabitants, and 
 I should imagine it must be a very healthy place 
 to live in. I ascertained that the temperature 
 was seldom above 84" or below 60". 
 
 Remaining here only sixteen hours, gave me 
 no time for observation. The peculiarity of the 
 
DESCRIPTION OF ST. MICHAEL'S. 311 
 
 hats of the men, and cloaks of the women, on 
 first landing, was very striking : the former having 
 all the appearance of horns sticking up on each 
 side. They are made of blue cloth, like a hunt- 
 ing cap, with an immense firont, but the peak 
 turns up on each side in the peculiar shape of 
 horns ; behind is a fall of cloth, which drops on 
 the shoulders like a cape, keeping out sun or 
 rain. The women wear large blue cloth cloaks, 
 with an immense hood turning over their heads 
 in the shape of a nautilus shell, so that you can- 
 not see their faces, being muffled up almost as 
 much as the ladies of Lima. 
 
 The anchorage of St. Michael's is by no means 
 safe, for there is little less than eighteen fathoms 
 water in any part of it. A south-west wind sets 
 right in, so that when it blows at all strong, ves- 
 sels are obliged to start fi*om their anchors. Two 
 small ones had been wrecked but a week previous 
 to our arrival ; a NE. wind comes down the 
 high mountains in such furious squalls, as to 
 
312 ARRIVE IN ENGLAND. 
 
 drive vessels from their anchors far out to sea^ 
 there being no possibility of holding on against 
 them. 
 
 We sailed again from St. Michael's on the 
 following morning, the Hh of April, and flew 
 towards Old England with a line fair wind, ave- 
 raging a hundred and sixty miles per day, when 
 on the 14^/^ we cast anchor in the outer roads 
 Falmouth harbour. 
 
313 
 
 CONCLUSION. 
 
 Thus have I taken my readers four sea voyages, 
 two jouniies across the continent of South Ame- 
 rica, one through the Banda Oriental, remained 
 seven weeks at Lima, three in Chili, one at Men- 
 doza, eight at Buenos Ayres, one at Monte 
 Video, and one at Rio de Janeiro, travelled up- 
 wards of twenty thousand miles by sea and land, 
 and brought them back again to England within 
 twelve months fi'om the time of my starting. 
 
 Such rapid movements and short stay at the 
 ditierent places I touched at, will, I trust, in some 
 measure apologize for the heterogeneous manner 
 in which these observations have been thrown 
 together, not having had sufficient time to mo- 
 dify or arrange them. Such as they are, with 
 their many imperfections, if they have afforded 
 
314 CONCLUSION. 
 
 any amusement or information to my readers, I 
 am amply repaid for all the — trouble I cannot 
 say, but — pleasure it gave me in noting tliem 
 down, merely to pass away the time as I pro- 
 ceeded on my solitary journey. And now, be- 
 fore taking leave of my readers, as I presume 
 this Journal may chance to fall into the hands of 
 some traveller who may be about to undertake 
 the same journey, I have endeavoured to offer a 
 few useful remarks ; yet still have I left the most 
 important ones till the last, and those are — a few 
 observations on the necessary precautions to be 
 taken respecting the health. It must not be 
 supposed that a man can undertake to travel by 
 sea and land, experiencing such sudden changes 
 of climate, atmosphere, temperature, diet, habits, 
 &c. without paying some regard to his constitu- 
 tion, and knowing, by a careful attention to it, in 
 what manner he may best preserve it. Although 
 not a medical man myself, yet has my situation so 
 frequently thrown me upon my own resources, 
 while buffeting the world's wide stage for these last 
 
CONCLUSION. 315 
 
 eighteen years past, roving from clime to clime, 
 visiting the sickly shores of Madagascar and 
 Southern Africa, burning in the deserts of Na- 
 maqua land, and freezing in the regions of Nova 
 Scotia, that I trust my experience, (from paying- 
 attention to my own constitution, and those that 
 have at different times been under my charge,) 
 will not be thrown away by presuming to offer it 
 to those who may chance to rove in foreign climes 
 as I have done ; and although it may not be 
 couched in all the technical language of phar- 
 macy, yet still I hope that it may be equally as 
 well understood, and taken in the light for which 
 it is intended, viz. — to be of service to the tra- 
 veller who may be placed far out of the reach of 
 any medical advice while prosecuting his jour- 
 ney in a wild and distant land, where medicine 
 is so little understood, and so difficult to be 
 procured. 
 
 Previous to taking a journey across the Pam- 
 pas, (or any where in the interior of a foreign 
 country,) I would recommend the traveller, more 
 
316 CONCLUSION. 
 
 especially if he is recently arrived from Europe_, 
 or has been confined to a large and populous city, 
 leading a sedentary life, to take five grains of 
 calomel at night, and a dose of Epsom salts the 
 following morning ; which will carry oft' any ex- 
 crementitions matter that may be lodged in the 
 bowels; prepare him to undergo the first day's 
 journey with more comfort to himself, and render 
 his constitution less liable to feel the effects of 
 such violent horse exercise as he will experience, 
 and which probably he may not be very well ac- 
 quainted with, but will find it, generally speak- 
 ing, as follows. In the first place, owing to his 
 travelling with a speed scarcely known in Eu- 
 rope, he is shaken to that excess, that a great 
 secretion of bile takes place, which generally 
 produces diarrhoea: this in a little time will go 
 off", and be followed by very great costiveness, 
 which, if not carried off' by a little opening me- 
 dicine, may terminate in very unpleasant symp- 
 toms, such as head-ache, fever, ^c. Let these 
 two principles be borne in mind, to '* keep the 
 
CONCLUSION. 317 
 
 lieacl cool and bowels open," while this is the 
 case, much evil or clanger need not be appre- 
 hended. 
 
 That painful feeling of soreness of limbs which 
 will be felt from galloping at sucli a rate, and 
 also difficulty of respiration, may greatly be 
 relieved by laying flat upon the back immediately 
 on dismounting, with the arras and legs extend- 
 ed ; which is not only the best posture to afford 
 rest for the short time of stopping to change 
 horses, but it relieves the intercostal muscles 
 from the violent exertion and pressure they un- 
 dergo while riding, gives them ease, and time 
 to recover their natural tone again ; and hence 
 renovates the whole system by the time he is 
 ready for starting. 
 
 Should he be troubled with a severe head-ache, 
 arising from a determination of blood, or being 
 long exposed to the heat of a burning sun, 
 putting the feet in warm water, and applying 
 cloths wetted with vinegar, (if it can be pro- 
 cured,) and cold water, or cold water alone. 
 
318 
 
 CONCr.USION. 
 
 will be found a ffreat relief: should this not 
 
 & 
 
 remove it, a cooling purgative must be added. 
 Nothing can be better as a cooling medicine 
 than Seidlitz powders : should this not carry it 
 off, a proper quantity of blood must be immedi- 
 ately absti-acted to unload the distended vessels ; 
 nor should it be delayed by any vain fear, as 
 another day's riding might bring on a fever, 
 which might confine him in some wild waste, far 
 removed from all medical assistance, or any one 
 able to apply the lancet to him ; therefore he must 
 abstract it himself while he is able, without any 
 hesitation, and which may be done with ease and 
 safety by observing the following directions : — 
 
 First lay the left arm on a table, with the palm 
 of the hand upwards ; have a fillet or bandage 
 ready, which get some person to pass round the 
 arm, about two inches above the elbow, so as to 
 compress the vein above the part from which you 
 intend to abstract the blood ; let it remain a 
 little time, in order that a distension of accumu- 
 lated blood may take place. But you must not 
 
CONCLUSION. 319 
 
 bleed over an artery, for fear of wounding it, 
 which may be easily ascertained by pulsation or 
 throbbing underneath the vein : if this is felt, an- 
 other vein must be chosen. Then take the lancet 
 (bent nearly to a right angle) between the fore- 
 finger and thumb, leaving at least half the blade 
 uncovered : you are then to rest your hand on the 
 three remaining fingers, and with the point of the 
 lancet towards the left hand, make the opening, 
 as it were, in a semicircle, thus '^^^. After 
 abstracting blood sufficient, (say eight or ten 
 ounces ; or less, should faintness be felt before 
 that quantity is withdrawn,) loosen the bandage, 
 and bring the lips of the wound carefully toge- 
 ther, and place over it a small compress of lint, 
 which is to be secured in that situation by a ban- 
 dage passed alternately above and below the 
 elbow, so that, when applied, it may describe 
 a figure of eight, by crossing at the bend 
 of the arm. During the time the blood is 
 flowing, very strict attention must be paid to 
 keeping the arm in one position ; and if it does 
 
320 CONCLUSION. 
 
 not flow freely, and the pulse at the wrist does 
 not beat, the bandage above the elbow must be 
 slackened a little. 
 
 To bleed another person, the process is precisely 
 the same, except in making the orifice, which then 
 would be, with the lancet pointing towards the 
 elbow, rather in an oblique direction ; but I take 
 it for granted, that most travellers understand 
 the simple process of bleeding ; if not, it ought 
 to be acquired, being an operation so very use- 
 ful and simple. 
 
 Should an inordinate secretion of bile take 
 place, from the heat of the weather, or any other 
 cause, producing a diarrhoea or sickness at the 
 stomach, a Seidlitz powder or weak solution of 
 Epsom salts may be taken ; and, by drinking 
 plentifully of beef tea, (if it can be procured,) to 
 dilute the acrid bile, it will be sufficient. After 
 it has ceased to operate, a little weak brandy and 
 water will restore the tone of the stomach and 
 bowels. I would never recommend, while under- 
 going violent horse exercise, purgatives con- 
 
CONCLUSION. 321 
 
 taiiiing aloes or colycinth, for they may be apt 
 to produce haemorrhoidal affections. 
 
 In ti-avelling in such a country as South Ame- 
 rica, it may naturally be supposed that a man 
 cannot very conveniently carry a medicine-chest 
 along with him ; therefore it may be necessary 
 for him to know what medicines will be the 
 most useful. I should say, the fewer, or ra- 
 ther, the simpler they are, the better ; for medi- 
 cine is an article that is too apt to be play- 
 ed with by persons who do not thoroughly 
 understand the use of it, and are frequently led 
 to take it, from vain and imaginary fears, merely 
 because they happen to have it in their posses- 
 sion ; therefore, the more simple it is, the better, 
 and may consist as follows, viz. about an ounce 
 or two of calomel, Epsom salts, seidlitz pow- 
 ders, (best in bottles,) some adhesive plaister, 
 bandages and lint, three or four good lancets, 
 and a little opodeldoc for sprains or contusions, 
 in case of a fall. A little essence of coffee would 
 be found very convenient, and a great luxury 
 
 Y 
 
322 CONCLUSION. 
 
 while travelling, for it will go in a small compass, 
 and take very little time in making; not only 
 that, but the mate or Paraguay tea, which is used 
 in the country, even should it prove palateable, 
 will be found a very powerful astringent, and 
 ought not to be used too freely. Whenever the 
 traveller has time for a bath, either warm or cold, 
 as he best feels inclined, I would sti'ongly re- 
 commend it ; if that cannot be procured, spong- 
 ing the body all over w^ith cold water will be 
 found the best means of preserving him in good 
 health ; for, although cold bathing should drive 
 the blood from the surface of the body for a few 
 moments, it will soon be followed by a fresh im- 
 petus ; and I have always found it one of the 
 most potent means ofrestoring muscular energy, 
 and removing that sense of languor and lassitude, 
 which, after undergoing a little fatigue in a w arm 
 climate, pervades the whole system. When 
 wearied and fatigued, it awakens the dormant 
 energies, and produces a lively sentiment of ex- 
 istence. When taken before going to bed, it 
 
CONCLUSION. 323 
 
 tends to produce peaceful slumbers, and, on 
 awaking, the body is refreshed, perfectly rege- 
 nerated, and restored to a feeling of universal 
 comfort. 
 
 The next thing to be observed, is the article 
 of clothing. 1 have already described what is 
 requisite for the Cordillera ; as to other cli- 
 mates, I have always been influenced by the 
 weather, and followed my own inclination and 
 comfort, by putting flannel on, and taking it off", 
 as I felt it agreeable or disagreeable ; but always 
 taking care never to get wet if I could avoid it, 
 without having my flannel on. But on this sub- 
 ject, T must decline offering any further opinion, 
 as so much depends upon the constitution: 
 many medical men maintain, that when flannel is 
 once put on the body, it ought never to be taken 
 off* again ; but my opinion being different, I have 
 acted upon it, and experienced the greatest com- 
 fort and relief from following it; but I must say, 
 that it cannot be ventured upon without the 
 greatest caution. 
 
 y2 
 
324 CONCLUSION. 
 
 And lastly : having said so much respect- 
 ing the care which is to be taken of the body, 
 while in a foreign climate, the mind must not 
 altogether be lost sight of; should that be dis- 
 eased, all art fails, and medicine proves abor- 
 tive. To express all I would say on this sub- 
 ject, I cannot do better than quote the language 
 of that learned surgeon Mosely, who, in con- 
 cluding his treatise on tropical diseases, says : 
 '^ T cannot dismiss the present subject, in which 
 my views have been principally directed to the 
 avoidable, and to the remediable derangements 
 of the body, without one solitary glance at those 
 derangements of the mind, which no regimen can 
 prevent, nor medicine cure. 
 
 '' Hot climates administer certain death, ' to 
 a mind diseased ;' and where there is in the 
 ' memory a rooted sorrow,' or written ' troubles 
 of the brain.' 
 
 " The want of sleep, in the slightest indispo- 
 sition, is always alarming; and, in the graver 
 diseases of people who have naturally much irri- 
 
CONCLUSION. 325 
 
 lability of habit, or some grief or anxiety of the 
 mind, it is the cause of so great a determination 
 of blood to the head, with excessive action of the 
 arteries of the brain, and so much perturbation 
 of the animal spirits, that often admit of no relief 
 or composure but what the unhappy sufferer, 
 after violent convulsive struggles, frenzy, and 
 inflammation of the brain, finds in death — some- 
 times, indeed, he escapes this fate, to experience 
 the miserable alternative of a long imbecility of 
 the faculties of the mind. 
 
 ^' Therefore, let not the discontented in mind, 
 nor the broken-hearted, hope to evade his cares 
 and troubles by changing to these climes ; nor 
 think that any passion which has stormed the 
 breast, will abate its force by distance. Nostal- 
 gia, that longing after home, exerts its painful 
 influence in the remotest regions, and magnifies 
 to danger the most trivial indisposition of either 
 body or mind, when both are already half sub- 
 dued by the heat and dread of climate. 
 
 " Those whose happy days have not yet been 
 
326 CONCLUSION. 
 
 clouded with misfortunes, let them be careful 
 here to preserve tranquillity of mind, and watch 
 with caution over their passions. The young 
 and inexperienced, who have embarked with the 
 false notion, that fortune has heaped up treasure 
 for them to be delivered out gratis, let them 
 also prepare for disappointment; and let them 
 avoid at first arriving in these countries, entering 
 into any serious engagement, or intricate con- 
 cern, until they have made themselves acquainted 
 with the genius of the people and their local 
 laws ; for fear any glittering allurement should 
 lead them into an inextricable labyrinth of diffi- 
 culty and vexation, and consign them to that 
 country, ^from whose bourne no traveller re- 
 turns.' " 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 329 
 
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330 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 
 
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APPFENDIX. 
 
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332 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. III. 
 
 List of Post Houses in travelling through the Banda 
 Oriental from Monte Video to Las Vacas. 
 
 Names of the Posts. 
 
 Distance 
 iu 
 
 Leagues. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Town of Canelones . . 
 Village of St. Lucia . 
 
 St. Joze . . 
 
 Post of Cufre 
 
 Rosario . , . . 
 
 Sauces 
 
 St. Juan . , . , 
 
 Tunas 
 
 Village of Las Vacas 
 
 Total 
 
 10 
 3 
 7 
 
 r 
 
 7 
 7 
 7 
 8 
 7 
 
 63 
 
 Good. 
 
 Bad. 
 
 Bad. 
 
 Bad. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Leagues. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 333 
 
 No. IV. 
 
 List of the Post Houses in crossing the Pampas from 
 Buenos Ayres to Mendoza. 
 
 Names of the Posts. 
 
 1 Distance 
 
 in 
 
 Leagues. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Puente de Marques .... 
 Canada de Escobar .... 
 
 Town of Luxan 
 
 Canada de la Cruz 
 
 La Cruz de Areco 
 
 Chacras de Ayala 
 
 Arrecite 
 
 Ponte Zuelas 
 
 Manantiales 
 
 Olmos 
 
 Arroyo del Medio 
 
 Arroyo del Pavon 
 
 Cerrillo del Rosario . . . 
 Saladillo 6 Manantiales 
 
 Candtlaria 
 
 Desmochado 
 
 Arequito 
 
 Esquina de la Guai-dia . 
 
 La Cruz Alta 
 
 Cabeza del Tigre 
 
 Lobaton 
 
 Saladillo 
 
 Barrancas 
 
 Zanjon 
 
 Frayle Muerto (village), 
 
 Tres Cruces 
 
 Esquina de Medrano . . . 
 
 Arroyo de St. Joze 
 
 Canada de Lucas 
 
 Punta de Agua 
 
 Carried forward . 
 
 155 
 
 Good. 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 Excellent. 
 
 Tolerable, 
 
 \'^ery bad. 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 Very good. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Bad, no post room. 
 
 Very good. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Very good. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Bad. 
 
 Very good. 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Very good. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Excellent, 
 
 Bad. 
 
 Excellent. 
 
 \"ery good. 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Leagues, 
 
334 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 List of the Post Houses continued. 
 
 Names of the Posts. 
 
 Distance 
 in 
 
 Leagues. 
 
 Rt'iiiaiks. 
 
 Brought forward 
 
 155 
 9 
 4 
 4 
 4 
 4 
 5 
 5 
 5 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 7 
 
 14 
 3 
 8 
 8 
 
 10 
 6 
 
 6 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 309 
 
 
 Santa Barbara 
 
 Tegiia 
 
 Very good. 
 Very bad. 
 Excellent 
 Bad. 
 
 Corral de Barrancas 
 
 El Tambo 
 
 La Aguadita 
 
 Good. 
 
 Barranquita 
 
 Achiras 
 
 Good post, but dirty. 
 Good. 
 
 Porte Zuela 
 
 Good. 
 
 Morro de St. Joze (village) . . 
 Rio Quinto 
 
 Bad post-hcuse. 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Town of San Luis 
 
 Represa 
 
 Desaguadero 
 
 Tortugas 
 
 Corral de Cuero 
 
 Bad post-house. 
 
 Good. 
 
 No post, good fare. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Bad. 
 
 Corro Corto 
 
 Dormida del Negro 
 
 Very good. 
 Good. 
 
 Catetos 
 
 Chacona 
 
 Retano 
 
 Good. 
 Good. 
 Very good. 
 Very good. 
 Bad for a town. 
 
 Leagues. 
 
 Codeo del Medio 
 
 Mendoza 
 
 Total 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 335 
 
 No. V. 
 
 List of the Posts and Casuchas in crossing the Andes 
 from Mendoza to Valparaiso. 
 
 Names of the Places. 
 
 Villavicencia 
 
 Uspallata 
 
 Casucha Las Vacas 
 
 Pujios 
 
 Paramillo 
 
 Las Cuevas . . . 
 
 Cumbre 
 
 Calaveras 
 
 Laguna del Inca 
 
 Ojo delAgua . . . 
 
 Guardia de los Hornillos . 
 
 Santa Rosa (village) .... 
 
 Colina 
 
 Santiago (city) 
 
 Bustamenti 
 
 Casa Blanca 
 
 Valparaiso ... 
 
 Total 
 
 Distance 
 
 in 
 Leagues. 
 
 15 
 
 13 
 13 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 n 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 5 
 
 13 
 
 19 
 
 6 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 12 
 1341 
 
 Remarks, &c. 
 
 Nothing can be depend- 
 ed upon. 
 The same. 
 
 ^ 
 
 All dreary regions, no 
 ' inhabitants. 
 
 Generally deserted in 
 winter. 
 
 Every thing may be 
 procured. 
 
 A miserable village. 
 
 Excellent inns. 
 
 Yery good fare. 
 
 Very good fare and ac- 
 commodation. 
 
 Very good inns. 
 
 By the above Table, it may be observed, that the traveller 
 ought to lay in the whole of his stock of provisions, &c. be- 
 fore leaving INIendoza, as after leaving that city nothing can 
 be depended upon with certainty until he arrives at Santa 
 Rosa. 
 
336 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 
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APPENDIX. 
 
 337 
 
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338 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 No. II. 
 
 List of the Posts and Casuchas in crossing the Andes 
 from Valparaiso to Mendoza. 
 
 Names of the Places. 
 
 Casa Blanca 
 
 Bustamente 
 
 Santiago 
 
 Colina 
 
 Santa Rosa 
 
 Guardia de los Hornillos . . 
 
 Casucha Ojo del Agua . . . . 
 
 Lagunadel Inca. 
 
 Calaveras 
 
 Cumbre 
 
 Las Cuevas 
 
 Paramillo 
 
 Pujios 
 
 Las Vacas 
 
 Uspallata 
 
 Villavicencia 
 
 Mendoza 
 
 Total 
 
 Distance 
 
 iu 
 Leagues. 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 19 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 5 
 
 1 
 H 
 
 n 
 n 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 13 
 
 15 
 15 
 
 134^ 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 Good house and fare. 
 
 Ditto. 
 
 Lay in dry tongues, spi- 
 rits or wine here. 
 
 A miserable Village. 
 
 Complete every thing 
 here, for nothing fur- 
 ther can be depended 
 upon till arriving at 
 Mendoza, 
 
 Generally deserted in 
 Winter. 
 
 »A11 dreary regions, no 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Nothing to be depended 
 
 upon. 
 The same. 
 Very bad Inn for a 
 
 City. 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 339 
 
 No. III. 
 
 List of Post Houses in crossing the Pampas from Men- 
 doza to Buenos Ay res. 
 
 Names of the Posts. 
 
 Rodeo del Medio . . . , 
 
 Retano 
 
 Chacona 
 
 Catetos 
 
 Dormida del Negro . . , 
 Corro Corto ...... 
 
 Corral de Cuero . . . 
 
 Tortugas 
 
 Desaguadera 
 
 Represa 
 
 Town of San Luis . . 
 Rio Quinto ...... 
 
 Morro de St. Joze (Vill.) 
 
 Porte Ziiela 
 
 Achiras 
 
 Barranquita 
 
 La Aquadita 
 
 ElTambo 
 
 Corral de Barrancas . . 
 
 Segua 
 
 Santa Barbara 
 
 Punta de Agua 
 
 Canada de Lucas . . . 
 Arrayo de St. Joze . . . 
 Esquina de Medrano . 
 Tres Crues .... 
 Frayle Muerto (Vill.) . 
 
 Zanjon 
 
 Barrancas 
 
 Saladillo 
 
 Labaton 
 
 Distance 
 
 
 in 
 
 Remarks, &c. 
 
 Leagues. 
 
 
 5 
 
 Very good. 
 
 7 
 
 Very good . 
 
 9 
 
 Good. 
 
 6 
 
 Good. 
 
 6 
 
 Good. 
 
 10 
 
 Very good. 
 
 8 
 
 Bad. 
 
 8 
 
 Good. 
 
 3 
 
 Good fare, no post. 
 
 14 
 
 Good. 
 
 7 
 
 Bad Post House. 
 
 12 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 12 
 
 Bad Post House. 
 
 7 
 
 Good. 
 
 5 
 
 Good. 
 
 5 
 
 Good post, but dirty. 
 
 5 
 
 Good. 
 
 4 
 
 Bad. 
 
 4 
 
 Excellent. 
 
 4 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 4 
 
 Very good. 
 
 9 
 
 Good. 
 
 6 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 D 
 
 Very good. 
 
 8 
 
 Excellent. 
 
 4 
 
 Bad, 
 
 4 
 
 Excellent. 
 
 4 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 4 
 
 Good. 
 
 4 
 
 V^ery good. 
 
 4 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 
 z2 
 
340 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 List of Post Houses continued. 
 
 Names of Posts continued. 
 
 Cabeza del Tigre . . . 
 La Cruz Alta . . . . 
 Esquina de la Guardia 
 
 Arequito 
 
 Desmochado . . . 
 Candelaria .... 
 Saladillo 6 Manantiales 
 Cerrilla del Rosario 
 Arro del Pavon . . . 
 Arrayo del Medio . . 
 
 Olmos 
 
 Manantiales .... 
 Ponte Zuelas . . . 
 
 Arrecife 
 
 Chacras de Ayala . . 
 La Crviz de Areco . . 
 Canada de la Cruz . . 
 Town of Luxan . . . 
 Canada de Escobar 
 Puente de Marques 
 Buenos Ayres . . . 
 
 Total . . 
 
 Distance 
 in 
 
 Leagues. 
 
 309 
 
 Remarks, &c. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 Very good. 
 
 Bad. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Very good. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Very good. 
 
 Bad, no Post-room. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Very good . 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 Tolerable. 
 
 Excellent. 
 
 Very bad. 
 
 Good. 
 
 Excellent. 
 
 Long Leagues. 
 
 I 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 341 
 
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 APPENJ)IX. 
 
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APPENDIX. 
 
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344 Al'PENDIX. 
 
 VI. 
 
 Analysis of the Mineral Water, of tempera- 
 ture 91", taken from the hot springs at the 
 Inca's Bridge, in the Cordillera of the Andes. 
 
 Royal Institution, 
 June 2d, 1828. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 I have at lust been able to find time to com- 
 plete an examination of the water from the Inca's bridge 
 which you gave into my hands ; and though I have no 
 doubt, from the nature of the water, that it had under- 
 gone changes since you removed it from its source, (as 
 was indeed sufficiently evident from the deposition in 
 it of black hydrosulphuret of iron,) it still was very 
 curious in its natural characters. 
 
 The water is distinguished, in the first place, by a large 
 quantity of sulphureted hydrogen, which it holds in 
 solution; this renders it fetid, and very nauseous to the 
 taste. It has at one time also been distinguished as a 
 chalybeate, holding iron in solution, but at present ul 
 the iiou i.s scpurutcd in the form above described. 
 
APPENDIX. 345 
 
 The water holds excess of carbonic acid in solution, 
 and by means of it, a large quantity of carbonate of lime 
 is also dissolved. 
 
 Upon dissipating the carbonic acid, the carbonate of 
 lime falls in abundance. I conclude that at the springs 
 the water contained more carbonic acid than even that 
 you gave me, and that the iron was formerly held in 
 solution by it. Besides these substances, the water 
 contains a large proportion of common salt, and also a 
 considerable proportion of sulphate of lime ; but there 
 are no traces of magnesian salts. 
 
 The water was clear at first, with the exception of 
 the small black flocculi ; being filtered, its specific gra- 
 vity was 1014.33 at 60o Farenheit; and ten cubical 
 inches of it were found to yield forty-five grains of dry 
 saline matter, of which, far the largest proportion was 
 common salt. 
 
 I am. Sir, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 (Signed) M. FARADAY. 
 
 Lievit. Charles Brand, R.N, 
 &c. &-C. &c. 
 
346 APPENDIX. 
 
 Analysis of the Mineral Water of tempe- 
 rature 83". 
 
 Royal Institution, 
 June 24th, 1828, 
 
 Sir, 
 
 On examining the second bottle of water 
 which you left with me, I find it in every respect like 
 the former, except that it contains a larger proportion 
 of common salt, and indeed of saline matters generally ; 
 but their nature, as well as that of the gases, is the 
 same as for the former water. 
 
 I am, Sir, 
 
 Your obedient servant, 
 
 (Signed) M. FARADAY. 
 
 Lieut. Charles Brand, R.N. 
 &c, &c. &c. 
 
 THE END. 
 
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