Forty Years AmongThe Zulus josiAH Tyler. Il c^^^k--^ /) — c^ > Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2008 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/fortyyearsamongzOOtylerich IQl- Long^ Urst. rrnm \)'(< ^> ,,i A.li.r.KM.unlrrlnH'tl, ^J"- - \ i 5 Villag:cs m winch arc dniiTh. ■unik'r n;Uive preacliprs. I- ^S O^V. / 29 XoTL^ JEast from Grcenwi-ch ^"■'''-/^V, FORTY YEARS AMONG THE ZULUS BY REV. JOSIAH TVLER MISSIONARY OF THE A. B. C. F. M. BOSTON AND CHICAGO (Srangrcgational ^unlia8=^cf)0Dl ani publishing Socictg J f7r Copyright, 1891, by Congregational Sunday -School and Publishing Society. TO THE MEMORY OF ^^Y BELOVED >?VIEE, WHO FOR THIRTY-EIGHT YEARS LABORED UNWEARIKDLY FOR THE EVANGELIZATION OF THE ZULUS, AND WAS THEN CALLED TO HIGHER SERVICE. 283113 NOTE. Reluctantly obliged by ill health to relin- quish mission work in Africa, it has been suggested that I publish some account of the beginning and growth of the evangelization of the Zulus. Thanks are due to the editors of The New York Observer and other papers for permission to make use of articles which have occasionally appeared from my pen while in Natal. If what I have written shall lead any one to consecrate himself to the work of the Master in South Africa, I shall be fully repaid. j. t. INTRODUCTION. It is good to observe a people through the eyes of one who has long lived among them and for them. The unselfish soul is the best observer. He sees truthfully who sees the good, that he may enlarge it ; the evil, that he may cure it. For a study of races, the devotion of love is the light of wisdom. For this reason the observations and reflections of this book will have a just and permanent value. The " heroes of the Dark Continent " are not all named in the records of explorations and discoveries. The worth and courage of the missionary, who, by his fidelity in preaching and living the gospel, discovers the man in the savage, are less conspicuous but no less real. England may trace many streams of her power to the fountains that were opened by the teachers and preachers of Jesus when her ancestors were pagans. If another England — a ''Greater Britain" — appear in South Africa, with commerce, education, a well-organized society, and the beneficent forces of religion, 1 Introduction. it will be created by the same truth and personal consecration. Missionary Tyler will not live to see the society of his hope, but when it comes and its history shall be written, the " Forty Years among the Zulus " will be named as among the seeds without which there could have been no harvest. It is said that nearly one fourth of the native inhabitants of Africa are of the Bantu race, of which the Zulu is doubtless the most interesting tribe. This book makes evident that they are not only numerous, but have a capacity for great things. In their courage and respect for property rights is found the promise of a new nation. If Paul plant and Apollos water, God will give the increase. This book describes the people as they are: their vulgarities, superstitions, their somewhat offensive but vigorous naturalness, and proves what may be done with them by the power of the gospel. What we call civilization is now entering Africa. The Christian religion must go with it, or its selfish and depraving ac- companiments — impurity, intemperance — will make the light of knowledge darker than the native ignorance. There is a fascination in reading the chap- ters describing Zulu life as they foUow one Introduction. after another, because it is always interesting to read of human nature, and more than interesting to read a book in which an earnest soul describes the consistent devotion of all his working years. Mr. Tyler is the son of Bennet Tyler, d.d., of wide fame as a teacher and theologian. Inheriting much of his father's power, alluring opportunities of usefulness here were presented to him. But he was possessed of the spirit of a missionary and could be no- thing else with a whole heart. There were no unconsecrated reserves in his nature. He was fitted for his work by a singularly active mind, a tender and yearning spirit, humor, common sense, and a heart loyal to Christ. He still calls the natives his people ; and in his enforced absence, though with children and friends, really lives among the Zulus. "I see them every Sunday," he says, "and find myself in imagination preaching to them in their own language the wonderful truths of God's love." C. M. L^iMSON, D.D. St. Johnsbury, Vt. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAOB LEAVING HOME. Choice of the South African Mission. — Marriage and Ordination. — Leaving Home. — Stop at Cape Town. — Kev. Dr. Philip. — Sight of Natal. — Reception by Rev. Daniel Lindley. — Ride in an Ox-wagon 17 CHAPTER U. STUDY OF THE LANGUAGE. Rev. Newton Adams, m.d., and wife. — Study of the Language. — Mistakes in Speaking Zulu . . 29 CHAPTER in. OUR MISSION STATION. Going to my Station. — Mr. Lindley accompanies me. — Incidents in Mr. Lindley's Life. — View of Esidumblni. — Taking Possession. — Mrs. Lindley 35 CHAPTER IV. LIFE IN A KRAAL. Life in a Zulu Kraal. — How the Huts are made. — A Zulu Pantry. — Owner of the Kraal refuses to have a Door in his Hut. — Appeal to Ances- tral Custom. — Winning the Contidence of the People 41 CHAPTER V. HOUSE BUILDING. In a Dilemma. — Rev. Aldin Grout. —His attempt to Teach a King his Letters. — An American Mail. — Mrs. Tyler's Feelings in view of the Work 48 U 12 " ' ' Contents. CHAPTER VI. PAGE ZULU DRESS. Zulu Wardrobe. — Shaving the Head. — Head Ring. — Headdress of the Women and Young Men. — Fondness for Oiuaments 57 CHAPTER VII. DIFFICULTIES ENCOUNTERED. Reply to the Question, "Who made you'?'" — The Great Spirit. — Ignorance. — Selfishness. — Need of Patience. — My "Better Half." — Zulu Con- sciences 63 CHAPTER VHI. TOILING AND WAITING. Mrs. Tyler's Retrospect. — Hulumene. — Dambusa. — Muscular Christianity. — Gravity Upset ... 68 CHAPTER IX. WILD ANIMALS. Buffaloes. — Umfulawe's Narrow Escape. — An Englishman's Adventure. — Lions. — Leopards. — Wild Dogs.— Baboons 73 CHAPTER X. CROCODILES AND SNAKES. Butler's Narrow Escape. — A Dutchman's Adven- ture. — Pythons. — Venomous Serpents. — Puff Adders.— The " Iinamba." — Zulu Carrying a Serpent on his Head. — Snakes good Rat- catchers.— Effect of Tobacco on Serpents.— Remedies for Snake-bites 83 CHAPTER XI. SPIRIT WORSHIP. Doctors of Divination. — " Smellers Out."^Zulu Prayers. — Sacrifices Contents. 13 CHAPTER XII. PAGE ZULU SUPERSTITIONS. 104 CHAPTER XIII. POLYGAMY AND OTHER EVIL PRACTICES. Chattelizing of Women. — Beer Drinking. — Smoking Wild Hemp 117 CHAPTER XIV. ENCOURAGEMENTS. Church Organized. — Prodigals Returning. — Dam- busa again. — Experience of Young Converts. — Christianity must Precede Civilization .... 125 CHAPTER XV. THE SABBATH AT ESIDUMBINI. 134 CHAPTER XVI. VISIT TO THE UNITED STATES. — NEW WORK. Trial of leaving Children on returning to Africa. — Location at Umsunduzi. — Visiting an Out- station. — Mrs. Tyler's Observations 140 CHAPTER XVII. EXPERIENCES AT UMSUNDUZI. 149 CHAPTER XVIII. ZULU CHURCHES. Disciplinable Offenses in Zulu Churches. — Mission Rules. — Legislation of a Native Church. — Polygamous Converts. — One in a Dilemma . . l.'S CHAPTER XIX. ZULU CHRISTIANS. Their Courage. — Faith. — Happy Deaths .... 163 14 Contents. CHAPTER XX. PAGE ZULU PREACHERS. Revs. James Dube and Ira Adams. — Umsingapansi. — Cases of Lapse. — Specimens of Zulu Ad- dresses 171 CHAPTER XXI. ZULU CUSTOMS AND LAWS. Origin of the Name "Kaffir."' — Similarity of Zulu and Jewish Customs. — Number of Zulus in Natal in 1843 and in 1889. — Regard for their Chiefs. — Independence. — Zulu Lad's Escape from Cannibals 181 CHAPTER XXII. ZULU CHARACTERISTICS. Physical Strength of the Zulus. — Politeness. — Love of Fun. — Skill in Debate. — Ingenuity. — Teachableness 188 CHAPTER XXIII. ZULU WEDDINGS AND FUNERALS. Cetywayo's Marrying his Fifteenth Wife. — Zulu Girls " Pojjping the Question." — Publicly Choosing a Husband. — Funeral Ceremonies . . 199 CHAPTER XXIV. ZULU KINGS AND WARS. Chaka, Dingaan, Umpande, Cetywayo. — Zulu War in 1869 and 1870. — Quarrel between Cetywayo and Usibepu. — Death of the Former. — Undiiii- zulu. — Rebellion and Sentence 212 CHAPTER XXV. ZULU FOLKLORE. 229 Contents. 16 CHAPTER XXVI. page DECEASED AMERICAN MISSIONARIES. Revs. Champion, Bryant, Marsh, McKinney and wife, Ireland, Abraham and wife, Wilder, Stone, Lloyd and wife, Robbins and wife, Dohne, ■ Pinkerton, Butler, Mrs. Tyler 236 CHAPITER XXVII. NATIVE EDUCATION. Seminary at Adams. — " Jubilee Hall." — The Theo- logical School. — ''Inanda Seminary." —" Um- zumbe Home." — Kraal Schools. — Government Aid. — Books in the Zulu Language 253 CHAPTER XXVIII. THE MISSIONARY OUTLOOK. Semi-Centennial. — Past and Present Laborers. — Condition of the Field. — E. C. A. M. — Other iSocieties. — Boer Farm Mission. — Trappists. — Missionary Outlook. — Need of Help .... 260 CHAPTER XXIX. FACTS CONCERNING NATAL. When Discovered. —Early History. — Elysium in South Africa. — Climate. — Cost of Living. — Cattle and Sheep Farming. — Pests. — Ticks and White Ants 269 CHAPTER XXX. PHYSICAL FEATURES AND POLITICAL AFFAIRS. Natal. — Durban. — Maritzburg. — Granite Caves. — Geological Features. — Coal Beds. — Flora Waterfalls. — Escape of a Dutchman. — Political Affairs. — Imports and Exports. — Railways. — Native Question 283 APPENDIX. Later Missions. — The Zulu Language. — The Exiled Chiefs 295 FORTY YEARS AMONG THE ZULUS. CHAPTER I. LEAVING HOME. "TTTHEN a boy I loved to sing "From VV Afric's sunny fountains," and to read of Ledyard, Mungo Park, and other intrepid African explorers ; but little did I then imag- ine that I should make the Dark Continent my home — be permitted to see the "king of beasts" walking about in his glory, the graceful antelope bounding from cliff to cliff, inhale the odor of its sweet flowers, bathe in its rivers, eat its luscious fruits, admire its scenery, and labor twoscore years for the evangelization of its inhabitants. But it has been even so. What led me to select South Africa as my mission field may be briefly stated. While a member of the Theological Institute at East Windsor Hill, Conn., I belonged to a mission- ary society, the members of which agreed to examine carefully the claims of foreign mis- sions, confer with each other, and ask the Lord to direct them as to their future fields of labor. Of our number, Benton went to Syria, May- nard to Salonica, and Rood, Wilder, and I to South Africa. The letters of Mr. Rood from 18 Forty Years Among the Zulus, the Zulu Mission, describing the language and character of the natives and urging the need of help, led me to conclude that I might be useful there, and on applying to the Prudential Committee of the American Board of Commis- sioners for Foreign Missions, I expressed a preference for that field. If I had received the reply, "You are needed elsewhere," I should have acquiesced. The hand of the Lord was upon me for good, and his guidance was clear in the selection of one who was to accompany me and share my solitude among the heathen. At my brother's parsonage, at Windham, Conn., I met a young lady whose home was in North- ampton, Mass. If the consent of her parents could be obtained, she promised to go with me. Tremblingl}^, but hopefully, I went to ask. In considering the subject, they had decided to give their consent provided they liked the young man, and on condition that he did not go to Africa. After a pleasant interview and just as I was leaving, the mother inquired, ''Mr. Tyler, to what part of the world do you pro- pose going ? " " To Africa," I replied. After a pause both said, " We have forgotten our conditions, but the Lord reigns. It is evidently his will that our daughter should go to Africa." Those good people never regretted the choice I had made of the Zulu Mission. Some months intervened between graduation and the time of sailing, and instead of studying medicine, as I should have done, I supplied a pulpit in central Massachusetts and received Leaving Home. 19 a unanimous call to settle as pastor. Thank God, I did not waver in my determination to preach the gospel to the heathen ! Rather sud- denly the summons came from Boston, " Get ready at once ; a ship is going to India which will stop at Cape Town." Hurrying to North- ampton, I was married on the morning of Feb- ruary 27, 1849, to Miss Susan W. Clark. After the wedding breakfast, and singing '' Blest be the tie that binds," followed by a prayer, — only a part of which was heard, on account of sobs and sighs, too funeral-like altogether, — we started for East Windsor Hill, Conn., where I was to be ordained the next day. Previous to the marriage I was asked to call on the family physician, who had known my intended wife from her childhood and was not at all pleased with the idea of her going to a heathen land. Rather abruptly Dr. T inquired: "Are you the young man who is going to take that delicate girl to Africa?" " Yes," I replied. " Well," said he, " mark my word : she will not live a year. Here is a box of medicines I present to you. Keep her alive as long as you can, but before the year is out I shall expect to hear of her death." Not very comforting, truly ; but I consoled myself with the thought that not all physicians are infallible, and down in my Jieart of hearts I cherished the hope that I might some time in the future present that " delicate girl " to the doctor none 20 Forty Years Among the Zulus. the worse for her African experience. Twenty- three years later we revisited Northampton with our six children, all healthy, white Africans ; but the doctor himself had passed away. The ordination service was rather more solemn than is usual now on such occasions. It was difficult to make people believe that there was a single bright spot in Africa. The prevalent feeling was that we were going to our graves. What made the ordination, in my case, peculiarly pathetic was the fact that those who took part in it were near relatives. My brother-in-law preached the sermon, my father gave the charge, and my own brother the right hand of fellowship. Their addresses were published in a pamphlet form, and often, while engaged in mission work, I derived strength from their heartfelt utterances. My own relatives, as well as those of my wife, placed no obstacles in the way of our going. The language of their hearts and lips was, " Go, and the Lord be with you." Some years after, my honored father remarked at a meeting of the American Board, of which he was a corporate member : " I have six children, and they all are a comfort to me; but none of them is so great a comfort as that son who is your raissionar>' among the Zulus in South Africa. He is a beloved son and his wife is a beloved daughter ; but if God will give them health to continue their labors I do not wish to see them again until I shall meet them in heaven." Leaving Home. 21 Ordination over, we liurried to Boston to sail in the ship Concordia, bound to India by way of Cape of Good Hope. Our fellow- passengers, Rev. Hyman A. Wilder and Rev. Andrew Abraham, with their wives, were designated like ourselves to the Zulu Mission. We were fortunate in having a large ship, com- fortable accommodations, and an agreeable captain. Vessels bound to South Africa in those days were scarce. They could hardly be found in sufficient numbers to take emigrants to the gold fields of California. The cargo to be landed at Cape Town consisted of flour and the first load of ice ever shipped to that port. The Dutch farmers residing there had not learned to appreciate such a luxury, and it proved an unprofitable speculation. Having received our instructions in due form in Park Street Church, we awaited the time of our departure, but lo ! the cargo was not in the hold, the precise day could not be fixed, rela- tives could not wait to see us off, and we our- selves, becoming tired of Boston, revisited our homes, having to go through another edition of Baxter's Last Words. When we did sail at last, after a fervent prayer in the ship's cabin, there were two persons on whom our eyes were fixed, a dear brother and sister who lingered on the wharf to catch the last sight of those whom they never expected to see again in this world. Straining my eyes as long as possible, I was suddenly surprised by a rap on the shoulders, with an interrogatory 22 Forty Years Among the Zulus, from Wilder, my classmate and missionary brother: — "Tyler, are you not glad you are out of the dusty streets of Boston ? " As Bun- ker Hill Monument grew smaller in the dis- tance, we began to prepare for seasickness, and it was not long before we could each of us say as did Henry Ward Beecher, when he described that malady, " I felt — I felt — I felt — with a great deal of feeling." My wife was a terrible sufferer, growing weaker and weaker, until the captain alarmed me by saying, " If you don't do something for Mrs. Tyler, we shall have to bury her in the ocean." A powerful tonic set her right, and the voyage, though a long one, was on the whole pleasant. At Cape Town we met with the kindest of friends. A letter of introduction from Dr. Carruthers, of Portland, Maine, to his old friend and brother Scotchman, Dr. Philip, superintendent of the London Missionary Society in South Africa, was a passport for Mrs. Tyler and myself, to a residence at the "mission house." Said Dr. Philip, " The bed- room you will occupy is that in which Dr. Vanderkemp, Robert Moffat, Livingstone, and other distinguished missionaries have slept." Though the doctor was aged and feeble, he had lost none of his Scottish wit and humor. He was a stanch Puritan, and sympathized heartily with the " old school " theology of New England. Three weeks of delightful intercourse with the Christian people of Cape Town passed Leaving Home, 23 swiftly by, and then it was announced that the schooner Gem was ready to sail to Natal. In it we embarked, but alas, what a misnomer ! A more untidy and uncomfortable craft I never saw. The voyage up the coast was long and stormy ; the captain a drunkard, and incapable half of the time. I doubt whether gladder emotions sprang up in the heart of Vasco da Gama when he sighted Tierra Del Natalis on Christmas day than did in ours when we heard it said, " There is the bluff overhanging the harbor of Natal." Jubilant were we in the prospect of setting our feet on dry land, but our ardor was soon cooled by the words of the mate : " Don't be impatient ; there is a bar to cross, and going over it is no joke." The sandbar, which choked the entrance of the har- bor at that time, was truly formidable. There were only eight feet of water at high tide; the waves beat furiously over it, and accidents frequently occurred. Captain Homes, from America, crossing with his vessel a short time before our arrival, had the misfortune to see his own brother washed overboard, and before help could be rendered become the prey of a shark. We were told that the safest way for us was to go below and be shut up in the cabin, or we might share the same fate. Mr. Abra- ham and the ladies did so, but Mr. Wilder and myself chose to cling to the rigging. The Gem thumped several times on the bar, and was for a short time in danger of stranding, but no harm befell us, and in an hour we cast 24 Forty Years Among the Zulus. anchor in the most beautifully sheltered, land- locked harbor on the southeastern coast of Africa. A boat immediately set off from the shore, and in it we were glad to see a gentleman who, we were told, was the Rev. Daniel Lindley. This pioneer missionary had sent to America a call for help, saying, " Come to our assistance. We will receive you as kindly as we know how. In us, if it be possible, you shall find the brothers and sisters you may leave behind." The warm welcome he gave us, " to the joys and toils of the African vineyard," made a deep impression on our hearts. I recall a rather brusque reply to a question I put to him, pointing to a party of Zulu men, semi- nude, and armed with clubs and spears, "Is it safe to dwell among this people ? " " Brother Tyler," was the answer, "you are safer here than in the streets of Boston." It was difficult then to realize the truth of that observation, but subsequent experience proved that the good brother was right, and that life and prop- erty are more secure in a state of pure barbar- ism than in a state of godless civilization. Our wives, I remember, were fearfully shocked by the sight of the savage-looking natives, and doubtless sympathized with the pioneer missionary ladies to the Sandwich Islands, who, when they saw the islanders for the first time, shut themselves up in their cabins, saying, "We cannot live among such people." Leaving Home. 26 Durban, the .seaport town of Natal, named after Sir Benjamin D'Urban, late governor at the Cape, was then a plain of sand. Only a few European families made their homes there, residing in wattle and daub houses; that is, dwellings made of twigs woven in and out of the posts and plastered with mud. No hotel existed, and but two or three stores, in which articles were sold at exorbitant prices. Just above the town was a large bush or jun- gle, called the " Berea " by Captain Allen Gardner, a philanthropic Englishman who once endeavored to establish a school there. When we first saw it, there were neither European nor Zulu dwellings; but elephants, lions, leop- ards, and other wild animals made it their habitat. G. C. Cato, Esq., American consul, banker, merchant, and general adviser, some- what rough in speech and manner, but kind- hearted and helpful, treated us most hospitably. But we did not remain in Durban longer than was necessary to store our possessions in a warehouse, and were then ready for the wagon which came to take us to the mission station, located on a pretty river called Aman- zimtote (Sweet Water). We were to take our first ride in a South African wagon, and I must describe that institution. It is a huge vehi- cle, on four immense wheels without springs, the body ten feet long, with a tent made of poles bent over, the ends of which are inserted in staples on the sides. Grass mats, painted canvas, and over all another piece of canvas 26 Forty Years Among the Zulus, unpainted, constitute the covering. This is tied to the sides of the wagon, and at night the ends are let down and fastened to the wheels. Inside is what is called in Natal, a kartell simply a bed frame, made of four poles laced with strings of cow hide. On this is placed the mattress, for the wagon is the bedroom as well as the coach and parlor of the African missionary and traveler. Six or seven yoke of oxen, or a span, are considered necessary to draw this vehicle. Newcomers are disposed to pronounce it a cumbersome affair and behind the age ; but they generally modify their opinion after a few months of travel over the rough roads of the country. The ox yoke is peculiar, being a pole about five feet long, three inches in diameter, and having four mortises to receive the keys, which take the place of bows in civilized countries. Each has a knob on the top to keep it from dropping through the mortise, and two notches on the outer edge, into one of which a strap is fas- tened, coming under the neck to keep the oxen in the yoke. This strap is made of buffalo hide with a loop at each end to fit it to the key. American farmers would laugh at this make- shift affair, but should they try it a while they would adopt it, if they had much to do with African bullocks. Each wagon has a driver and " forelooper," or person to lead the oxen. The whip is of sea-cow's hide, the size of a man's finger, four or five yards long, to the end of which is Leaving Home. 27 attached a piece of buck's skin. The whip- stock is the upper part of a bamboo cane, fif- teen feet long. A dextrous driver soon im- presses each ox in the span with a sense of its responsibility, besides making the "welkin ring" with a crack which on a still day is often mistaken in the distance for that of a rifle. A more exciting spectacle I have rarely seen than that of three spans united, forty- eight oxen in all, pulling a loaded wagon out of a bog, or up a steep hill, the drivers shout- ing and cracking their whips most furiously. Mr. and Mrs. Wilder were to accompany us to Amanzimtote, on their way to the Ifumi sta- tion, and we prepared to take our first ride in Africa. "Start early," said Mr. Cato, "for you may have to ride in the dark." At six in the morning we said good-by to Durban, and launched out into what to us were un- known wilds. Neither the driver nor leader understood a word of English, and as we did not know Zulu we obtained no information from our sable attendants. After a trek, or journey of ten miles, we " outspanned," that is, unyoked, the oxen, to let them feed, and also to refresh ourselves. In the wagon chest we found all that was requisite : a kettle, matches, dishes, knives, forks, bread, butter, tea, coffee, sugar, etc. Mrs. Adams knew what we needed and had kindly provided for us. This was the first picnic we enjoyed in South Africa, an antepast of many similar ones in the future. At three p.m. we started, but were soon obliged 28 Forty Years Among the Zulus. to halt. The oxen, unable to pull the heavy- wagon up a sandy hill, were turned out to graze. The sun beginning to sink behind the horizon, I remember debating with brother Wilder as to which one of us should keep watch at night, with a loaded rifle, to defend the party from wild beasts. Our hearts were soon gladdened by the unexpected arrival of a new span of fresh and strong bullocks, sent by Dr. Adams to our relief. A new driver also came, who could speak a little English. " Are you the new missionaries? How do you like our country?" etc. The wagon was set in motion and at nine o'clock a light was pointed out to us as that of Dr. Adams' house. The welcome we received more than paid us for all our fatigue. CHAPTER 11. STUDY OF THE LANGUAGE. AN own brother and sister could not have made our stay at Amanzimtote more pleasant than did Dr. Adams and his wife. Unremitting in their kindness to us in all things, they helped us especially to get a good start in the acquisition of the Zulu dialect. They were model missionaries. Of the pioneer band which left America in 1834, they had clung to the Zulu field in the midst of great discouragements. More indefatigable laborers in the mission field I have never known. They wrote but little for The Missionary Herald, and on that account Christians in this country knew little of them and their work. The doctor's knowledge of medicine and uni- form readiness to help the bodies of the natives won for him easy access to their hearts. He gained their confidence and affec- tion. From a distance of forty or fifty miles they came to him for consultation and help. Improving every opportunity to sow the good seed, he saw that they carried it with them to their homes, and in after years the fruits appeared. That the natives trusted him to a remarkable degree is evident from the fact that on one occasion, when they were inclined 29 30 Forty Years Among the Zulus, to rebel against the English government, their cliiefs were sent to talk with the doctor and obtain his advice before taking up arms. Listening patiently to all their complaints, he questioned them as to what would be the result of the rebellion ; suggested the loss of life and property that would follow, and 02:)ened their eyes to some aspects of the case which they had not considered. Putting their hands to their mouths in Zulu fashion, when new light breaks in upon their minds, they acknowledged the wisdom of their teacher and went home resolved to keep quiet. I am glad to say that Sir Theophilus Shepstone, secretary for native affairs in Natal, took notice of this act, and thanked Dr. Adams most heartily for saving the colony from war. Dr. Adams labored eleven years before he saw any fruit. The first individual to come out of heathenism — indeed the first Zulu convert — was Umbulazi, a woman who had fled from her kraal to the mission station in a state of starvation. She often said to Mrs. Adams, " God raised me from the dust of the earth. When I first came to you, I was eating herbs and grass, because I could get nothing else. I cared for nobody and nobody cared for me ; but the Lord told me to go to the missionary and he would help me.'' The image of that mother rises before me. A poor woman, depressed by cruel treatment and disowned by her nearest friends, had heard this missionary preach the gospel of love, and Study of the Language, 31 thinking that the bearer of such a message must be merciful to her, an outcast, threw herself down at his door, whei-e he found her, with her little son on her back, waiting for admittance. Her whole appearance and man- ners were repulsive, but the longing for sym- pathy and love which her words indicated was fully met by those faithful workers for Christ. They had prayed and labored that even one soul might be given them, and what joy they must have felt when after much instruction the light of the gospel seemed to dawn on her dark mind. Then she stood forth alone, a professed believer in that new faith, which was her comfort and support for nearly thirty years, until death reunited her to those sainted ones who had guided her to heaven. The last time I saw her in her feebleness and blindness, she took my hand and said, ''I am ready to go home to my father and mother," meaning the missionary and his wife. " The Lord has been good to me. He has permitted me to see great things." Is it not interesting to remem- ber that the light of the gospel first shone in a woman's heart among the Zulus ? The next convert was a woman with whom Umbulazi was accustomed to pray in a cluster of bushes near the station. Still another woman, who was trying to become a witch doctress, came to the station, and was soon " clothed and in her right mind." Mrs. Adams remarked in regard to her, '' The last time I saw that woman, I said to myself, ' You are 32 Forty Years Amoiig the Zulus. a hopeless case, surely.' " At the time of our visit at Amanzimtote, there was considerable religious interest, and the hearts of those faith- ful workers were greatly encouraged. At a communion season which we attended seven persons were received into church fellowship. The sermon that day was on the text, " Fear not, little flock," etc. As it was in Zulu I could not understand it ; but the deep attention given, and tears that occasionally trickled down the cheeks of the auditors, showed that it made a deep impression. Dr. Adams died in 1851, of overwork, at the age of forty-five, and was buried at the station which now bears his name. Mrs. Adams remained in the field five years after the death of her husband, and then, on account of failing health, returned to this country. She always looked back on her life in Africa with joy, and on the morning of her last day on earth spoke of her love for the missionary band there and for the Zulu people. She died in Cleveland, Ohio. Both Dr. and Mrs. Adams laid a broad and deep foundation for the future. Who can doubt that their reward in heaven is great ? We should have been glad to remain with those good missionaries a 3^ear at least, to become imbued with their spirit, and so accus- tomed to their modus operandi in mission work that we could reflect it in after life. But the custom in those days was to send newcomers, as soon as possible, to their stations, so we Study of the Laiiguage. 33 addressed ourselves, with all our might, to the mastery of the language. No grammar or dictionary had been published. Only a few words had been collected to aid in the forma- tion of sentences. The regularity and flexi- bility of the dialect struck us at first with sur- prise and pleasure, and the more we studied it, the more we admired it. It is, like the Italian, abounding in vowels, and is both pleasing to the ear and easy to speak. There is great poverty of words expressing moral thoughts, but this is not surprising when we consider the absence of such thoughts in the native mind. Mr. Grout doubts " if the German, Greek, or any other language can exceed the Zulu in the scope and liberty it gives for the formation of derivative words." The names of persons in Zulu are derived from circumstances connected with their birth. For instance, if a small snake happens to be seen or killed when a boy is born he is called Unyokana, " a little snake.' If honey is plenti- ful at such a time, the child is named Unyosi, the name of that luxury. Should the infant be a large one he receives the appellation Un- gagumuntu, "as large as a man." If there happens to be a fire at his birth, the babe is named Unonililo, " with fire." The time required to learn the language so as to be understood by the natives depends on the facility one has for the acquisition of foreign tongues. Missionaries in Natal have been known to preach in Zulu six months after 34 Forty Years Among the Zulus. their arrival. A year or more is required before one can catch what the natives say, they speak so rapidly. Zulus are remarkably patient, and do not laugh at mistakes made by young missionaries unless they are calculated to provoke their risibilities beyond control. One who, perhaps, began to preach too early had confounded the word lalani, meaning "go to sleep," with lalelani^ signifying " give at- tention." He began his sermon one Sunday with the former, '•'-Lalani^ nonhe (Go to sleep, all of you)." Another missionary, in giving direc- tions to a native lad in reference to knocking to pieces some hard sods in the field, used the word for wizards, ahatagati instead of amaga- hati (sods), saying, '^ Hamba u tyaye ahatagati (Go and knock the wizards in pieces)." The boy thought a difficult task was assigned him. The wife of a missionary, wishing to have a young man kill two ducks, had not noticed that the word for men differed from that for ducks in one letter: Amadoda (men), amadada (ducks). She said to him, '-'•Hamha hulala ama- doda amabili (Go and kill two men)." The young man looking up with a smile asked, "Which men shall I kill?" J ^^ mm^ i ! 1 ^PPy*"'^ Kev. Daniel Lindley. CHAPTER III. OUR MISSION STATION. I HAVE described the ox-wagon, a large affair, Init none too large for the mission- ary's needs. Nor are the oxen required to draw it (twelve or fourteen in number) too many for the rough roads, steep liills, and sandy beds of the rivers. In addition to furniture, dishes, food, and clothing, it was necessary to take tools for house building. I was fortunate in having for a companion and adviser the good brother who gave us such a warm reception when we landed. Mr. Lindley had said, '' I will see you settled in your new home ; " and his experience and tact were of incalculable help. Esidumbini lay fifty miles north of Dur})an, and tliat was my nearest market and post oftice. We were three days on tlie jour- ney, but the trip was enlivened by the narra- tive Mr. Lindley gave of incidents connected with liis early life and African experiences, which I will briefly record. When the Ameri- can Board of Commissioners for Foreign Mis- sions decided to establish a mission in South Africa, among the six heroic young men who responded to the call was the son of Rev. Jacob Lindley, D.D., an eminent Presbyterian minister. That son was Daniel, and at the 36 Forty Years Among the Zulus. time he was pastor of a church in North Caro- lina. His people, some of them slaveholders, were ardently attached to him, and when they received the tidings that he had decided to go to Africa, it is hard to say which predominated, astonishment or indignation. I asked him how he succeeded in getting away. He replied, "I preached four sermons on the kingdom of God, and one on the Great Commission, and if ever I preached from my heart T did then. My people saw that the call was from God, and gave me up, saying, 'It is His will that you should go.'" p T 1 • . It is to be regretted that no careful history has been published of Mr. Lindley's labors, trials, narrow escapes, disappointments at first, but afterwards encouragements. Had he com- mitted to paper his experiences, as he occasion- ally gave them in public and private, they would have been quite as interesting and romantic as those of Rev. Robert Moffat. Of this lamented brother, considered as a preacher or platform speaker, I am not in dan- ger of speaking too highly. Many in the United States who heard him have said that no foreign missionary surpassed him. Owing to a keen knowledge of human nature, he seemed to know just what to say to interest an audience, and was always adequate to the occa- sion As a hint of the kind of missionary addresses best adapted to interest and edify public audiences, he related an incident which came under his own observation. Seated in Our Mission Station. 87 the vestry of a church in Connecticut, previous to entering the pulpit, the pastor asked him upon what he was about to speak. Mr. Lind- le)'' replied that he always aimed in his mission- ary addresses to tell the audience about the people among whom he labored, their customs, worship, etc., and the nature of his work among them. Said Dr. : "I am glad to hear you say this, for a few months ago we had here a missionary from India who occupied a full hour in trying to show my people how they might save money for the heathen. One of my dea- cons, a shrewd merchant, came to me and said: 'We Yankees do not need to be told how to save money, but how to use it.* " When it was decided that Mr. Lindley return to America to spend the evening of his days, there was great mourning on the part of his friends, black and white. At the farewell meeting, one of the native preachers, in a most pathetic address, said : " We have met to bury our father and mother. Our missionary knows all, from the governor to the poorest man, and he is called by all ' father.' His wife has taught our wives, and by precept upon precept and an unwavering example of goodness and faithful- ness, has done her work for Christ." A collec- tion was then taken up of one hundred dollars, which was sent to America, to be held in trust to ''bury their father and mother, when they should die." A clergyman in New York City spoke truly when he said, "Such demonstra- tions from such a source are infinitely more 38 Forty Years Among the Zulus, honorable to humanity and America, as nobly represented by her missionary, than all the victories that British soldiers have won in Asia or Africa since Warren Hastings became master of India." Our ride to Esidumbini in an ox-wagon was to me, a newcomer, full of interest. Occasion- ally a large iyihlanf/ii (reed buck) of a gray, ashy color, with its beautiful horns measuring fifteen inches or more from tip to tip, would jump out of the long grass, run a distance of fifty yards, then stop, turn around and look at us. Mr. Lindley was not slow to seize his rifle, and the poor buck paid the penalty of having gazed too long at the disturbers of his quiet. So numerous were antelopes of various kinds and sizes, that there was no necessity to go out of our way for them. Stopping at a Dutch- man's farm the last day of our ride, he sur- prised me by giving away all the venison we had in the wagon. When I asked him what we shoukl eat, he replied, "I will shoot another buck to-morrow morning." He was as good as his word. About sunrise, as I was boilinor the kettle for our coffee, I heard the report of a rifle, and then a voice saying, '• Send the natives for a buck I have killed." It was a fine animal, weighing about one hundred pounds. On a beautiful afternoon we came in sight of my future home. The air was clear, and, as we reached the end of a long table-land, a deep and wide valley, filled with undulating hills Our 3Iission Station. 39 and winding streams with an occasionnl water- fall, suddenly opened on our view. On one side was a dense thicket sloping toward a river six miles distant, where elephants, lions, buffaloes, leopards, hyenas, and other wild beasts held undisputed sway. In the kloofs, or ravines, were trees of considerable size, but the hills abounded with the low, prickly mimosa, amid which we discerned clusters of native huts. How to descend into this valley from the table-land, with no wagon path, was a puzzling question. Ledges of rock occasioned great risk of upsetting the wagon. As a native boy led the oxen by the strap attached to their horns, we helped to keep them from going too fast by throwing stones at their heads shouting, " Ah, now ! Ah, now ! " and as the sun was sinking l)ehind the horizon we outspanned by the side of a beautiful stream. Before making preparations for supper, Mr. Lindley said to me, " Brother Tyler, this valley is to be your home. Let us take possession of it in the name of King Immanuel." We knelt on the ground by the side of the wagon, and a prayer ascended to heaven from the lips of that good missionary which I shall never forget. It was that his young, inexperienced brother might at all times "have an untiring patience and an unwavering faith," qualities which I found essential in my subsequent career. After a day or two of advice and assistance, Mr. Lindley returned home, and I was thrown upon my own resources. 40 Forty Years Among the Zulus, It is impossible to write of Mr. Lindley, and not mention his mfe, one of the most devoted missionary Ladies who ever set foot on African soih Belonging to the pioneer band, Mrs. Lindley suffered great privations and hard- ships, but throughout all she labored inces- santly and always cheerfully and with bright hopes for the future. Notwithstanding her large family and the cares which devolved upon her, she found time to teach the natives as well as her own children. She would be most accurately represented with a baby on her lap, pointing out the letters to a Zulu kneeling beside her, or explaining to a company of native women a portion of the Bible. Her labors were not in vain. A number of native preachers, two of whom were ordained, received their first religious impressions from her earnest appeals. She died in New York City, November 22, 1877. Mr. Lindley died in Morristown, N. J., September 22, 1888, at the age of eighty. At the funeral service at the Fourth Avenue Presbyterian Church in New York, the follow- ing remark was made : '' The world stoops to honor the memories and achievements of men who have won great successes in war, politics, and business by merely selfish methods and for selfish objects. Some day or other it mil place, far above all these heroes of an hour, the men who have emulated the spirit and equaled the achievements of the founders of the Christian Church," ^ rik^a A Zulu Kkaal. \ CHAPTER IV. LIFE IN A KRAAL. rj^HE place for building selected, and the -L trees cut and brought out of the kloofs on native shoulders, I found it necessary to use the wagon in hauling the timber, so my bedroom and parlor had to be given up. My wife was at a mission station twenty miles away. Where should I lodge ? In a kraal surely, if I could obtain permission of its owner. A kraal throughout South Africa is simply a collection of huts arranged about a circular fence of thorns which encloses the cattle fold. This fence is eight or ten feet high, with a stronger and larger one outside the huts, wall- ing in the whole. The number of huts corre- sponds to the number of wives belonging to the owner or headman. There are, however, in various parts of South Africa, military kraals with two hundred liuts or more, in which are quartered the king's soldiers, young and middle-aged men, ready to enter the field at a moment's call. The huts are made of long wattles or poles, the ends of which are fastened in the ground, the tops being bent over and lashed together with the " monkey rope," a vine well suited for the purpose. A 42 Forty Years Among the Zulus. strong basket-like roof is thus constructed, which is supported by horizontal poles resting on two or more upright posts. The covering, of long grass, is kept from being blown away by small rods sharpened at each end, bent bow- like, and fastened to the network underneath. On the top of the hut skulls and horns of oxen are frequently placed, probably designed as ornaments. To a newcomer approaching a kraal, the huts bear a strikmg resemblance to large haycocks. They are impervious to rain, and are made so strong that no wild animal, except an elephant, has been known to destroy them. Their location is ordinarily on a hillside, to prevent the rain from settling near them or entering the pits in the cattle fold in Avhich their grain is kept. Indian corn, with other cereals, and beans are thus stored away from the weevils and white ants. These pits are about six feet deep and as large as a hogshead, but shaped more like a jar, wdth a covering of flat stones and earth. The en- trance to a Zulu hut is about two feet high in the middle and three feet wide at the base. The inhabitants go in and out on their hands and knees. The door is of pliant sticks woven together and made to correspond in size to the opening. In royal kraals there is generally one hut surpassing all others in the beauty and skill with which it is constructed. The principal pole or wattle spanning the entire arch is called '•^intingo jenkosikazi (the wattle of the queen)." The rainbow has the same designation. Life in a Kraal. 43 The interior of a well-kept Zulu habitation is not so repulsive as one might suppose who has never inspected it. First, the floor pre- sents the appearance of polished ebony, having been made of a glutinous kind of earth which lias passed through the mouths of innumerable white ants. This is pounded liard, rubbed with smooth stones, and then smeared with fresli cow dung. Some Zulu women take pride in having their floors shine so that you can almost see your face reflected in them as in a mirror. The fireplace is a saucer-like excavation in the center of the floor, with a rim around it six inches high to keep the firebrands and ashes from scattering. Around this the iidiabitants sit or lounge, chatting, singing, scolding, snuff- ing, smoking, or dozing. At night grass mats are spread over the floor, on which they sleep with their feet towards the fire in cold weather. Their pillows are small wooden stools, about five inches high, on which they rest their necks, not their heads. To foreigners this not oidy "appears uncomfortable, but too suggestive of a guillotine to be agreea])le ; but the Zulus are too proud of their elaborate headdress to l)ring it into contact witli the ground. Calabashes for sour milk, earthen pots (home- made) for water or beer, or for cooking pur- pUSBS,' constitute the chief utensils of a Zulu pantry. The natives are very fond of meat of various kinds : beef, mutton, venison. Pork is also eaten j and lard for anointing their bodies is 44 Forty Years Among the Zulus, a great luxury. They dislike eggs and have an abhorrence for fish. They cultivate Indian corn, pumpkins, amadwnbi, a species of caladi- um, the root of which is eaten ; and, since introduced by the whites, beans and sweet potatoes are favorite vegetables. Indian corn is their staple breadstuff, but it is usually eaten boiled like mush. Stewed pumpkin is also mixed with Indian meal. Thickened sour milk is to them a luxury. Missionaries and other foreigners, after they have become accus- tomed to it, also greatly like it. In hot weather it is the nearest approach to ice cream of anything obtainable in Africa. New milk is turned into a calabash and left to sour, fresh milk being added daily, and when it is properly soured a plug at the bottom of the calabash is removed, the whey escapes, and the milk is poured into an earthen dish. It is about the consistency of "bonny-clabber." Boiled corn, ground on stones and mixed with sour milk, is food of which the Zulus never tire. Another article of food, or drink rather, is beer brewed from musty Indian corn. Well- to-do natives make this in large quantities, hence it is not unusual to see in a hut a huge earthen pot that will hold twenty or thirty gallons. The mill for grinding corn and other articles is a large stone, two or three feet in length, in which an indentation has been made, together with a small one, oval-shaped and double the size of a man's fist. The material ground, or mashed, falls upon a small grass Life in a Kraal. 45 mat placed by the side of the stone. Every luit has in it one of these primitive but useful mills. At night other occupants than human beings find lodging in a Zulu house. These are goats and calves, tied to a stake in a small enclosure fenced off for their accommodation, besides, occasionall}', rats and cockroaches too numerous to mention. In one of these huts I spent the first six weeks of my missionary life. The kraal num- bered six dwellings, and the owner, for a rea- sonable compensation, placed the best one at my disposal. A screen of blankets hid me from the eyes of my sable companions when the time came for retiring. I was careful to see that the entrance was closed at night to keep out all members of the serpent family. Not fancying the process of creeping in and out on all fours day after day, I requested of the proprietor of the harem the privilege of inserting an upright door of civilized construc- tion, telling him that when I left I would leave it for his accommodation. His reply was, '' My fathers went in on their hands and knees, and I shall continue to do so, and, more- over, while you are among the Zulus you must do as the Zulus do." An appeal to ancestral custom was the argu- ment the natives invariably used to rebut all reasons why they should abandon their absurd practices as well as their superstitious worship. Pointing one day to the cattle fold in which 46 Forty Years Among the Zil{us. manure lay four or five feet deep, and also a huge pile of ashes outside the kraal, I asked : " Why don't you use these valuable ferti- lizers ? " The only answer I received was : " It is not our custom." ^ In the hut the smoke, having no chimney through which to escape, ' was my greatest annoyance. At the end of six weeks I did not regret exchanging this smoky abode for a larger one, with the improvements of a door and window, and a pfirtition dividing the bed- room from the sitting room. A kitchen was built outside, in which was placed an Ameri- can stove. Then I thought it time to send for my wife, and on her arrival everything assumed a changed appearance. I have always been glad that I had this opportunity of living for a time in immediate contact with the natives. I caught their intonations and mastered the " clicks " of the language. At times it was difficult to repress feelings of disgust at the sight of unblushing impurity, and the sound of dancing, yelling, grumbling, and quarreling, but a voice within me said : " The incarnate and spotless Saviour saw what was far more revolting to him than anything I behold ; " and I found the people possessed some interesting traits of character despite their environment. The Zulus, like other African tribes, are nat- urally proud, independent, and suspicious of the white man's curiosity ; but there is a way 1 1 afterwanl ascertained that superstitious fears had something to do with this. Life in a Kraal. 47 to unlock the door of their hearts. Occasion- ally creeping into one of their huts, and watch- ing the careworn housewife busy at her daily tasks, I dropped a kind word which generally met with a smile or some token of apprecia- tion. Nothing pleased the parents more than my attempts to amuse the children, as they rolled about on the floor, innocent of clothing, their eyes sparkling with humor, and their teeth shining like polished ivor}^ When I could assist them in secular- nxatters 1 did so. B}^ attendiiig to their bodily wants I was enabled to reach their hearts. I had daily evidence of the wisdom of the remark of St. Francis Xavier : '' The smallest acts of friendship, an obliging word and civil look, are no despicable part of the missionary's armor." The confi- dence of tlie people was won. They looked upon me as their friend, although they were wedded to their superstitions. At first com- passion was awakened in view of their degra- dation, then love, and a longing for their sal- vation. Love begat love. When Mrs. Tyler became acquainted witli them she experienced the same emotions. It was not long before the natives said, ''See how she loves us!" CHAPTER V. HOUSE BUILDING. THE site for 1113' house was on a hill com- manding a fine view of the mountains in Zululand to the north, an immense plateau or table-land to the west, and to the east the Indian Ocean, visible through a ravine, the bed of the Umhlali River. The scenery was so varied and picturesque we never tired of it. The atmosphere was exceedingly clear and exhilarating. Esidumbini seemed a perfect sanitarium, and we rejoiced in having found so healthy and beautiful a place of residence. But as to the building of a house, we did not fancy living longer than was necessary in a hut with so few accommodations. In my boyhood I had often seen house builders at work, but never took notes with a view to doing anything of the kind in after life. However, I knew enough to use the line, lay out the ground, see that holes were dug at proper distances for posts, and that they were firmly erected, after their lower ends were charred to prevent their being eaten immediately by white ants, and also that the beams were pinned to the posts ; but how to make rafters I knew not. I wrote my dilemma to a good brother missionary. Rev. Aldin Grout, living twenty-five miles dis- House Building, 49 tant, and he came at once to my aid. Reaching us at three p.m., he rested a while, and then went out to inspect my operations. I can still see the smile on his countenance as he beheld my long face and heard me dilate on my trou- bles. Throwing oif his coat, workman fashion, he began to show me in a thoroughly practical manner what was to be done. Selecting a few poles he told me to take them to a certain spot, drive down a peg, arrange a couple in the form of a triangle, bore the holes, pin the poles together, and saw off the ends properly, mak- ing me do the work that I might not forget in future. In less than two hours all the rafters were put together, and before Mr. Grout left the next morning a good part of the roof was up. Easy enough, I thought, if you only know how. Mr. Grout was one of the pioneer mission- aries who sailed from Boston in 1834. ^ He ' A gentleman, now nearly eighty years old, who was residing in Cape Town at the time the six pioneer missionaries of the Ameri- can Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions landed there, thus speaks of a meeting in connection with the Sabbath-school, held in the Tnion Chapel . — " A man who had something to do in making arrangements for the meeting had placed on the communion table a plate of btecuits and a decanter of wine. One of the missionaries, being called on to address the meeting, gave such a speech that he aslonisheil us all. He began by expressing his amazement at finding one present who was the instigator to all evil. He detailed the crimes of whit^h men are guilty, and attributed them all to this one who was in our midst. Then he turned upon us present for allowing such an one to enter the house of God, that no one had raised his voi<'-e, or pre- vented his entrance, and when lie had excited us to the utmost by his condemnation of this miscreant, he pointed to tlie wine." That missionary was Rev. Ahlin Grout, now living in Springfield, Mass., at the advanced age of nearly ninety. Soon after the above incident, Mr. Grout, with some clergymen 50 Forty Years Among the Zulus. landed in Natal early in 1835, with Dr. Adams and Rev. George Champion. Hopefully and zealously Mr. Grout began missionary work in Zululand, then under Dingaan, a cruel despot. The difficulties under which he labored and the perils b}' which he was surrounded were sufficient to intimidate the most courageous. He attempted to teach Dingaan to read. The proud king said to Mr. Grout, " Why have you come to me ? " " To teach and preach the gospel to you," Mr. Grout replied. Said his sable majesty, "Do you then pre- sume to think that you can teach me anything that I do not already know? " It was explained to him that he must first learn the letters of the alphabet. '' Can I now learn to read ? " he inquired. Mr. Grout told him that he would come again on the morrow and give him a lesson. ''But can so great a thing be put off till to-morrow? Let me have them all now," responded the chief. Mr. Grout then printed the whole twenty- four letters, and began, as he said, " to educate a king in a day." Soon, on repeating the letters he had learned, in Cape Town, was invited to dine at the house of Rev. Dr. Philip, superintendent of the Loudon Missionary Society in South Africa, and the good doctor, seeing the missionary's eyes directed to the decanter of wine in its usual place on the table, called his servant to remove it, and that was the last time it was placed on that table. It required some degree of moral courage in those days to set one's •• face hke a flint " against the drinking usages of society, and I love to recall what the missionary, then a young man, so heroically did. House Building. 51 the king was at a loss, and said, " I have forgotten that one." " Well, it is D." Soon the king had forgotten another, and another, and became confused and forgot all. In his vexation he threw down the paper, say- ing, " There, I told you I could not learn. No, I do not want you ; you may go home." On another occasion, while Mr. Grout was showing Dingaan his medicines, a small pair of tweezers was observed, and the king asked, '^ What is that for ? " Mr. Grout replied, "To extract splinters or small ticks from the body." The response came, " I will take that for my own use." Soon after he appropriated a bottle of smelling salts, and Mr. Grout began to think that he had better keep his things out of sight if he wished to preserve them. Asking one day for medicine, as he had a severe cold on his chest, a mustard poultice was recommended. The king had it applied first to one of his peo})le that he might watch its effects before he tried it himself. Mr. Grout's love for the Zulu Mission was tested in the early days of its history. On account of war between the Zulus and Dutch farmers and the discouraging prospects, the American Board recalled Mr. Grout and his colaborers, Lindley and Adams; but before the summons from Boston reached them, the darkest days had passed. They could not brook the idea of retreating from the field. Their hearts were buoyed up with a faith kin- 52 Forty Years Among the Zulus. dred to that which inspired the " apostle to the Karens," eighteen years previously, who, when asked, "What prospect of ultimate success is there ? " replied, " As much as that there is an almighty and faithful God." Dr. Adams said, " I will support myself by my profession." Mr. Lindley, no less coura- geous, observed, " And I will obtain a living by teaching the children of the Dutch Boers." Mr. Grout deckired that he would " go home and plead for the continuance of the mission." To quote his own words ; " With hearts well- nigh broken, myself and wife took passage, and in 1844 were safely landed in Cape Town. For nearly ten years we had been in search of a place where we could stop long enough to preach the gospel and witness its fruits, and now, without any intimation that we had done any material good, we were called away. We had hardly landed in Cape Town before friends began to inquire, ' Why have you left your work? You must go back. If funds are all you want, they shall be forthcoming.' " Sir Peregrine Maitland, then governor at the Cape, gave Mr. Grout an appointment as gov- ernment missionary, saying, " It is a pity men should leave a place and p)eople just as they have learned enough of the language to enable them to be useful," and adding, " I think more of missionaries than of soldiers to kcBp savages quiet." A purse of <£170 was contributed by the good people of Cape Town for immediate House Building. 53 necessities, and in June, 1844, Mr. Grout returned to Natal. He was remarkably adapted to mission work in South Africa, and his efforts were attended with success, though he labored more than ten years before seeing his first convert. Failing health rendered it necessary that he should come to America to spend the evening of his days, but he has often regretted that he did not conclude to remain in Africa and die among his own people. When he left this country in 1834 he was accused by some of ''going on a wild-goose chase ; " but he used to say, " I have caught my goose." His first wife died in the earl}^ history of the mission, leaving one daughter, Mrs. Ireland, now in the Natal field. With his second wife he has lately celebrated his golden wedding. May his last days be radiant with the divine presence ! I must say that my new house, when com- pleted and occupied, seemed to me like a palace. The months flew by rapidly and pleas- antly, each finding us better able to communi- cate with the people. We had Indian corn, amadumbi, and occasionally meat brought to us for sale by the natives. Fowls we could obtain cheaply, and in abundance. With my rifle I frequently shot antelopes that were quietly feeding near by. One privation, keenly felt during the first few years, was the absence of news, except at long intervals. The nearest post office was fifty 54 Forty Years Among the Zulus. miles distant, and, native young men being needed for work of various kinds, weeks some- times passed before we could send one for our letters. Natal could not then boast of a news- paper. Tidings reached us one day that filled our hearts with joy. An American vessel had arrived, bringing not only a mail from home, but other things " too numerous to mention," as our Durban agent wrote. Immediately were dispatched two able-bodied Zulus, with the promise that if they would return before bed- time the following Saturday (it was then Wednesday) each would receive a shilling extra. They took two large bags, each holding as much as a flour barrel, in which to bring the newly-arrived articles. Saturday night came ; it was dark and rainy, and the prospect of see- ing our carriers grew fainter and fainter. Ten o'clock came, and just as we concluded to retire a rap was heard on our door. There were the two Zulu men with immense burdens on their heads, their bodies covered with per- spiration. To terrify wild animals and ward off witches, they said they had sung and shouted all the way after sundown. The huge bags were placed on the dining room floor; something tempting to the appetites of the messengers given them, and we began to inspect this first arrival of things from the dear ones at home. Opening the bags I poured out their contents. The Eclectic, Harper's Monthly, The Mission- ary Herald, and other publications were laid one House Building. 55 side ; boxes of maple sugar, little bags of wal- nuts and butternuts, parcels of clothing, an album, bedquilt, daguerreotypes, etc., gladdened our eyes and hearts. Then we sat down to read some of the welcome letters out of a big bundle before us. When twelve o'clock came we laid all aside to be reinspected on Monday morning. Mrs. Tyler, writing about that time to a friend in this country, observed, " You ask if we never ' cast one longing, lingering look behind,' and if it does not make us sad to think of you all. Perhaps you will hardly think me sincere if I tell you ' No.' I don't know that I have ever felt, since the time I stepped from the plank which connected our ship with land, that I have had a desire to live in America. I do not mean that I love my native land any the less, or that I should not love to visit it again ; but I would rather live at Esidumbini and labor for the good of the many souls that are famishing for the lack of knowledge, and here too would I die. I feel that it is my home and I love it. I love my friends so dearly that it seems unnatural not to see them occasionally ; but I knew it would be hard before I came here, and tried to make up my mind to leave them all at home and be content to write to them, and hope to receive many letters from them. The more I become acquainted and interested in our people, the more I shall learn to give up all other objects of thought which would tend to make me unhappy." 56 Forty Years Among the Zuha. Then referring to her husband, she said : "We try to help each other in all sorts of ways. When Mr. Tyler is putting on a door- latch, and turns it upside down and wonders why it does not work, I run and help him ; and when I make similar mistakes, or need a little bookshelf or something of that sort, he is always ready to help me. So we conclude, like other young married people, that we were made for each other." A Heathen Zulu Young Man. CHAPTER VI. ZULU DRESS. THE clothing of the Zulus in their normal state is too scanty to require much de- scription. Mark Twain's observation in regard to the Sandwich Islanders is not inapplicable to this people : " They wear — they wear — they wear a smile, and some of them a hat and a pair of spectacles." The dress worn by the men consists of a girdle of ox hide from which is suspended in front a bunch of the tails of monkeys, wild cats, or other animals, and at the back a small apron of ox hide or the skin of some wild beast. The garment of a woman is a skirt of pliable tanned leather, lubricated with fat. The bridal skirt is trimmed with beads of divers colors and a rich profusion of brass buttons. This is a present from the bridegroom, with which the young damsel is as much pleased as are her civilized sisters in other lands with their jewels, laces, and orange blossoms. Belts and semi- belts are worn by young men and women, the more beads ornamenting them the better. Zulu men are dressmakers as well as tailors, making all the garments of the women as well as their own. Washing day is not one to be dreaded among 58 Forty Years Among the Zulus. this people. Should a garment require cleans- ing, it is taken to the river and rubbed with the fibrous root of an alkaline plant which takes the place of soap. The native headdress occupies considerable attention. Married men shave all the upper part of the head except the crown, on which they leave a little wool in a circular shape about four inches in diameter. To this is sewn a gutta-percha-like ring, made of gum and char- coal. With the growth of the wool the ring rises sometimes to the height of six inches. Into this ring they thrust long snuff spoons, porcupine quills, needles, and other articles of utility. This ring is a badge of manhood and respectability. Violence done to it is quickly and bitterly resented. Men have chosen to die rather than be deprived of it. Under the old Zulu kings no man was allowed to wear the ring till he had distinguished himself in battle. While Rev. Robert Moffat was on a visit to Mosilekatzi, king of the Matabele Zulus, a man was brought before the chief to receive his sentence for a crime, the penalty of which was death. Mr. Moffat earnestly interceded for his life. The story from the missionary's own pen is too interesting to be omitted : — " The prisoner, though on his knees, had something dignified in his mien. Not a muscle of his countenance moved, but a bright black eye indicated a feeling of intense interest, which the swerving balance between life and Zulu Dress. 59 death only could produce. The case required little investigation ; the charges were clearly substantiated, and the culprit pleaded guilty. But, alas ! he knew that it was at a bar where none ever heard the heart-reviving sound of pardon, even for offenses small compared with his! "A pause ensued, during which the silence of death pervaded the assembly. At length the monarch spoke, and, addressing the prisoner, said : ' You are a dead man ; but I shall do to-day what I n^ver did before. I spare your life for the sake of my friend and father. I know that his heart weeps at the shedding of blood ; for his sake I spare your life ; but you must be degraded for life ; you must no more asso- ciate with the nobles of the land, nor enter the towns of the princes of the people, nor even again mingle in the dance of the mighty. Go to the poor of the field and let your compan- ions be the inhabitants of the desert.' "The sentence passed, the hardened man was expected to bow in grateful admiration. But, no ! Holding his hand clasped on his bosom, he replied : ' O king, afflict not my heart ! I have incited thy displeasure. Let me be slain like the warrior. I cannot live witli the poor.' Raising his hand to the ring he wore on his head, he continued : ' How can I live among the dogs of the king, and disgrace this badge of honor which I have won among the spears and shields of the mighty ? Let me die, O Pe Zulu I' 60 Forty Years Among the Zulus. "His request was granted, and his hands were tied erect over his head. Now my exer- tions to save his life were vain. He disdained the boon on the conditions offered, preferring to die with the honors he had won at the point of the spear. He was led forth, a man walk- ing on each side. My eyes followed him until he reached the top of a high precipice, over which he was precipitated into the deep part of the river beneath, where the crocodiles, accus- tomed to such meals, were yawning to devour him ere he could reach the bottom." Shaving the head is not confined to Zulu men. Married women do the same, leaving,, however, a topknot for which they have a great regard. A mixture of red ochre and grease makes this topknot an agreeable orna- ment in their estimation. A few of them, however, do not shave at all, but rub their wool with red pigment, making it look more like a mop than anything else. Witch doc- tresses fasten to such a headdress the bladders of birds or of wildcats, blown out, and thus appear hideous in the extreme. Young men not married allow their hair to grow, dressing it in a variety of fantastic shapes. Now it looks like a sugar loaf, now like two little hills with valleys between. The more rancid butter, or mutton tallow, or cocoa- nut oil they can get to rub on their heads the better. Odoriferous substances are freely used, especially before going into company, and per- fumes are now bought largely from English Zulu Dress, 61 merchants. Places of worship need ample ventilation, particularly when filled with Zulus freshly lubricated. Missionaries not only re- quire grace, but strong olfactory nerves, and they often sigh for a different kind of anointing. _ Zulus of both sexes and of all ages are exceedingly fond of ornaments. Necklaces, made of beads of various colors, are common. Brass rings, some of them we should think too cumbersome to be agreeable, are worn on the arms and legs. The head is decked with feathers, from those of the common fowl to the ostrich and the most beautiful birds of the forest. A j^oung man is sometimes seen with a pair of deer's horns attached to his forehead, while about his neck are strung leopard's teeth, pieces of crocodile skin, bits of wood, claws of birds, and small bags of medicine. "Spirit" or "witch" doctors com- monly wear long leopard skins dangling about their feet. Infants have holes bored in their ears which are enlarged as they grow older, and made the receptacle for ivory knobs or reed snuffboxes. Flowers are often seen on the head, one of which, the "love-making posy," is said to foster the tender passion. Young men generally wear this when paying attention to the ladies. On the arms and bosoms of wonien raised^ scars are often" noticeable. These were made in infancy, and in the gashes cut in the skin were inserted charcoal and ashes from the bones of serpents. The operation must be painful, but when orna- 62 Forty Years Among the Zulus. mentation is considered, bodily suffering is not regarded. An ornament of which young wives are very fond is a piece of buck's skin tied across the chest and falling down to the knees ; the more brass buttons sewed to it the better. On marriage or other hilarious occa- sions, both sexes deck themselves with all the finery obtainable. CHAPTER VII. DIFFICULTIES ENCOUNTERED. "TXT^HEN we began our work at Esidumbini, V V no sign of civilization was visible. Profound ignorance prevailed in regard to religious truth. I asked a young man, " Who made you?" His reply was, '''• Unkulunkulu (Great-Great)." "Where did Unkulunkulu come from?" " He sprang from a reed on the river's brink." " Where was that river ? " "I cannot tell. Some believe it is in Natal, others in Zululand." " Who made the reed from which Unkulunkulu sprang?" "I do not know. Our fathers did not inform us." This was the extent of their theological knowledge. A pamphlet has lately been published in Natal by Dean Green, of the English Church, on the proper name for God in the Zulu language. The conclusion to which he arrives, after a most rigid examination, is that Unkulunkulu, literally '^ Great-Great," is the best word for God. A large majority of missionaries, both in Natal and Zululand, coincide with his views, and doubtless that will soon come into common use. Uixo, a word of Hottentot origin, has been used quite extensively for many years past. There are Zulus in Natal who believe in 64 Forty Years Among the Zulus. an '-'•Itongo^^ a great Spirit from whom all things proceeded. Great simplicity was required in our teach- ing. The theme that invariably excited in- terest was the love of Jesus and his agony on the cross. None other awakened an equal amount of thought and feeling. Had we used denunciatory language, or tried to drive them to a reception of Christianity, we should have defeated our object. Kind, gentle, unwearied persuasion and a firm reliance on divine help are the true weapons of a missionary's warfare. There were occasional gleams of native shrewdness. A lad of seventeen years, look- ing at me one Sabbath day with twinkling eyes and a countenance full of animation, put the following question : '' Do you say, teacher, that the great King has all power in heaven and on earth?" "Yes," I replied. "Well then, why did n't he take a knob-kerrie and, as the ser- pent was creeping into the garden, give him a rap on the head and thus save the human family from all its woe ? " For a long time it was impossible to persuade the fathers at Esidumbini to allow their daughters to reside in our family, altliough we offered good compensation. They said, " You will spoil our girls. If taught your notions and customs they will make us trouble and refuse to marry old men who may have eight or ten wives." They reasoned correctly, for our teaching did have that effect. The young men in our Difficulties Encountered. 65 service could not be induced to put on clothing of European make, not even a shirt, though it might be given to them, lest they should en- counter ridicule and be accused of adopting the " new religion." This led one of our missionary brethren to make the quaint but truthful remark : " A shirt is the anxious seat among the Zulus ;" for as soon as a young man was seen putting on this first article of civili- zation and Christianity, he was known to be anxious about his spiritual interests. Worldly considerations alone brought the natives to our Sabbath services. If a man wished to make a good bargain with us on Monday, he was sure to be at church on Sunday. When a father was asked to send his boys to the station to be taught, the reply was, " What will you pay me ? " One who had been quite a regular attendant on the sanctuary for three years came to me one day, and said, " I am coming to meeting no longer ; I get nothing for it." I thought, one Sabbath morning, after preach- ing five yeais and witnessing no conversions, that my words had at last sunk into the heart of one man. His countenance was full of life, and his eyes were not taken from me during the sermon. I had been preaching on the storm of divine displeasure that will overtake all unbe- lievers. He came to me at the close of the service, and said : " Teacher, I thank you for your discourse to-day. I am so glad a storm is 66 Forty Years Among the Zulus, coming, for my garden is all parched up with drought." The prophet Ezekiel (33 : 31) describes accu- rately my congregation at that time : " And they come unto thee as the people cometh, and they sit before thee as my people, and they hear thy words, but do them not: for with their mouth they show much love, but their heart goeth after their gain." Dark indeed were the prospects ; but Mrs. Tyler, whom no obstacles could dishearten, comforted me with the words : " The darkest hour is just before dawn." She used to remind me of a passage in Hebrews, which my good father desired I should never forget : " For ye have need of patience, that, having done the will of God, ye may receive the promise." I shall speak without reserve of my wife, now in the ''better land," for if I have been useful in any degree in the mission field, I attribute it largely to her unwearied help and wise counsels. Though of a delicate organiza- tion, she was to me at all times a tower of strength, inspiring me with hope in the darkest hours, uncomplaining in time of trial, willing to wear herself out that others might be bene- fited. Not only was she necessary to the hap- piness of her husband, but to the elevation of the Zulus as well. She preached a part of the gospel I could not preach, reaching the hearts of poor Zulu women as no man could have done. The joys vouchsafed to missionaries more than counterbalance their sorrows. I am sure Difficulties Encountered. 67 that we were never happier in our lives. At all times the bow of God's promise overarched us, and our helirts were buoyed up by the assurance that we were remembered in the prayers of dear relatives and friends in our native land. The promise : " Lo, I am with you," was verified to us, and as we could say, " Lo, we have left all, and have followed thee," those words, " Manifold more in this present time, and in the world to come life ever- lasting,** came to us in all their sweetness. One thing I could not fail to perceive in the early days of our missionary life was that the consciences of the people were on our side. However absorbed in their worldly schemes, however corrupt their inclinations, however closely wedded to their debasing customs, their consciences were responsive to our teaching and testified that the Word we preached was truth. We had abundant evidence that con- science among a heathen people is a great aux- iliary to the missionary. I once asked several old men how they felt before the arrival of white men in Zululand, when doing right ^ or wrong. Their reply was, " Something within us approved when we did the former, and con- demned when we did the latter." A good commentary this, I thought, on the words of the apostle Paul : " These, having no law, are a law unto themselves ; in that they show the work of the law written in their Jiearts, their conscience bearing witness therewith, and their thoughts one with another accusing or else excusing" (R. V.). CHAPTER VIII. TOILING AND WAITING. OUR chapel, holding about a hundred, was filled every pleasant Sabbath. There was no direct opposition except from a cunning "spirit doctor," who, fearing his craft was in danger, warned the people against having any- thing to do with us lest the spirits should be- come angry. A change was going on silent but sure. The hearts of the natives were being unlocked by sympathy and love. Our arguments against their evil ways were met with a manliness that commanded respect. Though baffled in dis- putation, they retired from the field with great politeness and grace. We did not see it at the time, but the divine Spirit was working by our side. " Esidumbini for Christ " was our motto, and the Master approved it. He was fertilizing what had been sown in tears. We used to think at times that friends at home might doubt the expediency of supporting missionaries, year after year, in such an un- promising field. Mrs. Tyler, in reviewing those early days, once wrote in regard to them : — "I remember the despair which crept over me when I made my first entrance into a Toiling and Waiting, 69 heathen kraal. Everything was so dark and repulsive, it did not seem possible that the pure, genial light of the gospel could find a place there. But it would not do to give way to doubt or despair with the divine promises in our hands. We gathered courage from the bright faces and pleasant smiles Avith which all greeted us as their first white visitors. To the extent of our ability we answered their questions and interested ourselves in their children, showing them that we were their true friends. " But when we tried to explain why w^e had left our native land and come to live with them as messengers of Jesus Christ, silence was the result. Such was the beginning. But when we secured some of the children to work for us, though they knew nothing of our inten- tions we spent much time in teaching them to repeat passages of Scripture, hoping that tliese would remain in their hearts, even if they went back to their kraals, and that the Holy Spirit would make use of this instrumentality for their conversion. As soon, however, as some of the parents found that their children were becoming interested in learning they hastened to remove them. This was the disheartening part of our first work, and little understood by expectant Christians and churches." Subsequently some of the fathers, polygam- ists, convinced that the religion we taught was true, remarked to me, as did an old Brahman to Dr. Henry M. Scudder, missionary in India, 70 Forty Years Among the Zulus, and in almost the identical words : " It is only a question of time, sir. Let us alone. Our children are yours ; they will certainly become Christians." At last our hopes were raised by one of the young men in our employ, Dambusa by name. He came to me, saying, '• I believe in Christ and wish to serve him." He had an amiable disposition and was attached to us, but was easily influenced and soon found there was much to contend against. Unfortunately he was engaged to a girl who had no sympathy with him in his desire to embrace Christianity. To make things harder the parents of both were determined to keep their children in hea- thenism. A house which Dambusa began to build on the station was torn to pieces by indignant relatives. They swore by the spirits of the Zulu kings that none of their number should abandon the worship of their forefath- ers. The time for the marriage came, the cat- tle had been paid for, beer brewed, new songs for the dance learned, and Dambusa, almost persuaded, with a sad countenance bade us good-by and joined his heathen friends ; but the " incorruptible seed " had been sown in his heart. We shall have more to say of him. Our heathen congregations were quite or- derly. Only once was there an attempt at disturbance. A young man who had, perhaps, imbibed too freely of native beer decided one Sabbath morning to break up our service. I saw in his countenance that mischief was brew- Toiling and Waiting. 71 ing; but he kept quiet till I had commenced the long prayer, when he began to laugh aloud and talk to others. Immediately I stopped praying, and taking him by the nape of the neck walked him to the door of the church and gave him a vigorous push which sent him sprawling out on the ground. I then returned and resumed my prayer. Occasion- ally we had lively episodes. The cries of little babies on their mothers' backs sometimes almost drowned my voice, but I never asked mothers to leave the church on that account. One Sunday a man walked into church carrying a beaver hat, of which he was very proud ; the gift of some European. It was his only article of civilized dress. He seated himself, the hat by his side, and had listened attentively to the introductory exercises, when a hen took occa- sion to walk in, fly up, and lay an Qgg on one of the boards overhead. The Q^g rolled one side and fell directly into his beloved hat. Zulus have a great repugnance to eggs. They will not touch one unless obliged. The man's indescribable disgust as he rose, took up his hat at arm's length, and walked out of the chapel, completely upset the gravity of the audience. He did not return to service that day. At the Umtwalume station, Saturday even- ing, a young man, having decided to abandon heathenism, called on Mr. Wilder, the mission- ary, and asked for a shirt. He said, " I want a long one that will cover my knees." The sewing machine was brought into use, and in a 72 Forty Years Among the Zulus, short time the man had the satisfaction of put- ting on his first article of civilized clothing. On Sabbath morning he did not take his seat with the unclad heathen in the back part of the chapel, but in front of the pulpit. The bench he occupied had no back, and to make the most of his new garment lie raised his feet and pulled his shirt over his knees. He re- mained in this attitude until, a lit of drowsi- ness coming over him, he began to sway to and fro, unconsciously attracting general attention. The people, however, retained their gravity until he rolled over like a ball on the floor. Then the risibles of missionary as well as natives became uncontrollable. CHAPTER IX. WILD ANIJVIALS. BETWEEN Esidumbini and Mapumulo, the station of Rev. Andrew Abraham, lay an immense jungle, in which elephants, buffaloes, leopards, hyenas, and other wild animals lived in comparative securit5^ Only a few hunters had ventured to go into it. Occasional^ ele- phants came out into the open country, but being harassed by Zulus, some of whom had firearms, they were glad to get back to their retreat. Buffaloes, more bold, emerged in droves and grazed within sight of my house. They differ from American buffaloes, or l)isons, having a hairless skin, and are more like huge swine. Their horns are generally curved. I once came upon a drove unexpectedly which ran away pellmell, breaking down young trees and everything that impeded their progress. Hunting them is dangerous sport. Baldwin, a great African hunter, used to fear this kind of game more than any other. A narration of his narrow escapes once made my blood run cold. I had numerous opportunities to try my skill and courage in shooting these animals, but concluded that prudence was the better part of valor. I coulfl not refuse, however, lending my gun to a native hunter, that he might sup- 74 Forty Years Among the Zulus, ply himself and friends with food; but a sad accident put a stop to this. The one I refer to was Umbulawe, who had lived with the Dutch and engaged in many a hunt ; but one day a cunning bull buffalo was too much for him. He had fired once and was reloading, when suddenly the bull rushed out of the thicket, knocked him over with his horns, trod upon him, and with his rasp-like tongue tore off a part of his scalp. The poor man held in his breath, pretending to be dead and keeping as still as a mouse, until the savage beast, concluding that life was extinct, walked away. He did not go, however, until he had trampled upon and broken the stock of the gun into half a dozen pieces. Umbulawe picked himself up as well as he could and soon a party of his friends, who had heard the report of the gun, met him and car- ried him home. A few hours after his wife came to me with a^ sad countenance bringing the broken parts of the gun, and said, " Umbu- lawe is dead." It turned out, however, that the hunter had yet a little life remaining in him and that he was anxious to see me. Tak- ing some sticking-plaster and a few medicines, I mounted my horse, and in twenty minutes rode into his kraal. He was spitting blood and in great pain, and had, I feared, sustained severe internal injuries. Having doctored him according to the best of my ability and given him some advice, I was about to depart when he said, " I want you to make haste and get Wild Animals. 75... that gun mended. I must go and shoot that buffalo; he is my enemy." In spite of his injuries Umbulawe recovered in a few weeks. An Englishman, hunting buffaloes in one of the forests of Zululand, was chased by one, caught on the horns by the strong hunting- belt he had around his waist, and thrown into the branches of a friendly tree to which he gladly clung. The buffalo ran about, appar- ently in a quandary as to where his game had gone. After ten minutes or more the beast departed, and the tired hunter only regretted that he had not with him his gun that he might give him a farewell charge. Lions, in considerable numbers, lived on the table-lands, about our station, but rarely came into the Esidumbini valley. One ventured to visit our premises in the night, passing by the front door and walking up to a house occupied by some Zulu lads in my employ. Their door being ajar and one of the boys not asleep, the " fire coming from the lion's nostrils," as he ex- pressed it, so scared him that he roused his companions and they climbed upon the rafters, where they remained till nearly morning. The lion then went past the cattle fold, greatly terrifying the oxen and cows. I noticed tliat the oxen had made a ring, the cows being inside, that they might protect the weaker sex with their large sharp horns. In the open veldts, or plains of South Africa, I have been told that wild animals have a wholesome fear of attacking such a laager, or fortifica- 76 Forty Years Among the Zulus. tion ; but it should be remembered that ox horns in South Africa are generally long and large, differing greatly from those in Great Britain or America. It is not uncommon to see a pair five and even six feet from tip to tip and correspondingly large. One poor ox was so unfortunate as to have a pair nine feet long. An attempt was made to take it to England, but it died on the voyage. During the first years of my missionary life lions prowling about my station did not dis- turb us or the natives, if let alone. The country abounded with antelopes, and on these they grew fat. So long as they did not en- danger our lives we thought it best to have as little to do with them as possible. Riding home one day from a meeting of our mission, accompanied by a native lad who was also mounted, we passed within gunshot of the largest male lion I ever saw ; but he did not offer to touch us. Shaking his mane and wagging his long tail he walked leisurely away, much to my relief, for I had no more formida- ble weapon of defense than a jackknife. Natives afterwards told me that he had been in that locality several weeks. A missionary brother was coming to visit us about that time, and I wrote to him, saying, "There is a lion in the way." The good brother was rather incred- ulous, but took the precaution to ride on horse- back ahead of his wagon and, true enough, found the huge beast in the spot I had described. He was wise enough not to shoot, Wild Animals. 77 though he had a loaded rifle on his shoulder, knowing that a wounded lion is a most danger- ous character. One of those brutes inflicted on me a great loss one night, and I was glad that a bullet from an Eno^lishman's rifle soon after termi- nated his existence. I had sent to a table-land, a few miles from my house, two pole oxen which had been recently inoculated to prevent their dying from lung sickness and were, there- fore, in low condition. Both were killed by a lion of enormous strength, judging from his tracks and the fact that with his teeth lie bi-oke the bone of one of the oxen's legs. He could not have been hungry, for he ate only a small part of one. Those oxen cost me nearly one hundred dollars. A fine horse strayed away from my station one afternoon and was never found, having probably been eaten by a lion. I was not sorry when the country was rid of lions. When traveling in the Orange Free State, which was noted as a lion country, I learned the morJua operandi adopted by Dutch farmers in hunting lions. Half a dozen or more coura- geous boers ride on horseback as far as they dare towards a lion, some of them fire with their long elephant guns from their horses and then retire immediately, glancing backward, perhaps, to see if they have wounded or killed. If un- successful in the first charge, they return and make another. The difficulty is to induce their horses to venture within shooting distance, so 78 Forty Years Among the Zulus. great is their dread of the " king of beasts." A Dutchman, on whose word I could rely, told me he had shot nine lions and met with only one accident, which was from the fall of his horse when returning from a hunt. A Natal colonist, William Leathern, while traveling through the Transvaal, some years ago, was obliged to spend the night in the veldt. He was riding one horse and leading another. After kindling a fire he tied the two horses, tail to tail, allowing them to feed near by. A shower descended, putting out the lire, and he was in deep darkness. Suddenly he heard one of his horses utter a terrible cry, and he perceived within a few feet of himself an enormous lion. He fired at him with his pistol, but in a moment the savage beast Avas upon him inflicting on his right arm a shocking wound. As his horses were both killed, Mr. Leathern was obliged to walk thirty miles before he could reach a physician and have his arm attended to. An Englishman, by the name of Brown, while hunting in the Orange Free State, shot a lion- ess, the ball penetrating the skull ; but before the wounded animal died she sprang upon the hunter and killed him. Their dead bodies were found side by side. Readers of the life and travels of Dr. Living- stone will doubtless recall the narrow escape of that great explorer. He had fired the contents of both barrels of his gun into a lion, and was in the act of reloading when the beast sprang Wild Animals, 79 upon him, catching him by the shoulder and shaking him as a cat does a rat. The doctor, in describing his sensations at the time, said: "The shock caused a sort of dreamhiess in which there was no sense of pain nor feeling of terror, though quite conscious of all that was happening. It was what patients, partially under the influence of chloroform, describe who see the operation but feel not the knife. The shake annihilated fear and allowed no sense of horror in looking around at the beast. This peculiar state is probably produced in all ani- mals killed by the carnivora. And if so, it is a merciful provision of our benevolent Creator for lessening the pain of death." When the remains of the distinguished explorer were taken to England one of the marks by which they were identified was that caused by the teeth of the lion on his shoulder bone. Another animal that used to make us visits on dark nights was the leopard. I once found myself a little too near one to be agreeable. Hearing the cries of a fowl that roosted on a tree in front of our dwelling, I rushed out, armed with only a broomstick, to see what was the matter. Suddenly I found myself only a yard or two from a large spotted leopard Inisily eating the fowl. But the greatest terror must have seized him at my ghostlike appearance; for, leaping over a high pomegranate fence, he made off as fast as possible. Leopards often came for sheep and goats which on cold and rainy nights had not been driven to the kraals ; 80 Forty Years Among the Zulus. and in such cases I poisoned them for the natives with strychnine, always receiving the skins for my trouble. Other wild animals to which it was necessary to give a wide berth were wild dogs. They usually go in troops, and if hungry, like Sibe- rian wolves, attack human beings. Should an ox or cow, on account of lameness or disease, be unable to reach the cattle fold before dark, those animals were almost sure to find it. Dr. Adams, riding one night in an unfrequented part of the colony to visit a patient, was chased by a troop of these creatures. At last he turned and rode towards them, cracking his horsewhip furiously and succeeded thus in intimidating them. Troops of baboons lived on a large table-land lying between Esidumbini and Umsunduzi, a station occupied by Rev. L. Grout, and as I often rode over to see that brother I almost invariably came in contact with them; but we got to understand each other so well that I had no fear and they seemed to be of the same mind. Occasionally, for amusement, I wouhl try to show them how brave I could be and ride on my horse to within a few yards of them. - An old baboon, the father and appar- ently ruler of the colony, would mount on an ant-heap, four or five feet high, and carefully watch my proceedings. If he suspected mis- chief, — saw anything in my hands that looked like firearms, — he would make a signal to all the mothers and little baboons to flee to their Wild Animals. 81 homes on a precipice near by. But if not, he kept quiet, and we exchanged grimaces and remarks also ; I addressing him now in English and now in Zulu, and he me in his baboon dialect. Not for the world would I liave pro- voked an attack from him, for I would have stood no chance unless well armed. A large, valuable dog ventured one day to assail one of these fellows and was torn almost to pieces. Natives frequently came to me to borrow my gun, saying that baboons were robbing their gardens. At early dawn, befoie the people had come out of their huts, a foraging party of these animals would make a raid into a garden, pluck the ears of corn nearly ripe, place them under their arms, steal a pumpkin or two and run away to their hiding-place among the rocks. Emin Holub, in his " Seven Years in South Africa," tells us that on the highlands he was once pelted by a herd of baboons perched among the trees. He said he had to shoot an old male that began to pick up some stones to throw at him. Members of the same family, living on the lowlands, have not attained to such a degree of intelligence as to defend them- selves in that fashion. Certainly they are far removed from those North African specimens, of which Emin Pasha told Mr. Stanley, "that understand the art of fire-making and carry torches at night when they visit the planta- tions of tlie Mswa to steal fruit." The Pasha said he had seen this with his own eyes. If blind or nearly so, as he is represented to be, 82 Forty Years Among the Zulus. his vision of baboon fire-makers must have been extremely dim. Naturalists, I believe, class these creatures under the family of " pig-faced baboons ; " but their countenances seemed too human to de- serve . such an appellation. I never had the heart to shoot one, lest his dying struggles should appear to me in my midnight dreams. At the present time very few wild animals are found in Natal. Occasionally a leopard is killed, but elephants, lions, and wild dogs have disappeared. CHAPTER X. CKOCODILES AND SNAKES. AN object of terror to the early mission- _ aries in Natal, when the briclgeless and boatless rivers were swollen, was the crocodile family. I say crocodile, for no alligators are found in South Africa. Travelers generally forded rivers on horseback or in ox-wagons. The loud crack of the whip and shouting of the driver intimidated these reptiles and kept them at safe distance ; but a person on foot or on horseback was liable to be seized. Mr. J. A. Butler, a printer, connected with the American Mission, once had a marvel- ous escape. He was swimming his liorse over a turbid stream, when the animal became frightened and he discovered that a huge crocodile had hold of him. The scaly brute, leaving the horse, seized the rider, dragged him from his saddle and would have made him his prey had not Mr. Butler clung to the horse's mane. When he reached the bank of the river, he caught hold of some reeds and held on to them until a party of Zulus, who had witnessed the exciting scene, rushed to his relief. Even then the brute would not relax his hold, till the natives had beaten him on the head with clubs and pried open his 84 Forty Years Among the Zulus, jaws. They then helped Mr. Butler out, bound up his wounds, and accompanied him to the nearest mission station, six miles dis- tant. The poor man recovered, but was a sufferer from the wounds he received the rest of his life. Escapes from a crocodile, after he has fairly seized one, are rare, but sometimes occur. It is reported that an Englishman while bathing was drawn by one into deep water ; but having been told that crocodiles are sensitive about their eyes, he thrust his fists into them, and the reptile not fancying this treatment let go his hold. The man, though badly lacerated, lived many years. A laughable story is told by George Cato, Esq., American Consul at Port Natal, of Pot- geiter Dorse, a Dutchman. Dorse, while hunt- ing, decided to have a bath in the Umhlali River. Leaving his clothing on the river's bank, together with his gun and hunting-knife, he engaged peacefully in his ablutions ; but when he had finished he did not find the clothes where he had left them. Crocodile tracks explained the matter and soon he obtained sight of the thief on a sand bank a few yards away. Taking good aim he gave him a fatal shot in the brain. Then with his knife he opened the brute, secured his clothes, none the worse apparently for the mangling they had received, put them on and went home. William Baldwin, in his book on " African Crocodiles and Snakes. 85 Hunting," tells us of shooting several geese which disappeared as soon as they were shot, being drawn under water by some unseen crea- ture. Determined to secure at least one, he waded into the pond and caught hold of it by the legs just as it was sinking, a crocodile hav- ing taken the first hold. He observes : " In an instant the goose came in halves, the legs and back falling to my share, Mr. Alligator getting the best half and two or three violent blows on the nose into the bargain." He adds, "I lost not an instant in getting ashore again and did not think much at the time of what a foolish thing it was to do and wliat a narrow escape I had had." Dr. Livingstone speaks of the Barotzi trii)e, living on the Zambezi, as incliiu-d to pray to these reptiles and to eat them too ; but the Zulus manifest no disposition to do either. They use various parts of the body, however, for medicinal puri)oses. If one of the Bamaii- gwato pet)ple has the misfortune to ])e bitten by a crocodile, he is expelled from liis tribe. Dr. Livingstone said that he met with a man in exile who refused to tell him the cause, but some of his native attendants informed liim, and the scars visible on his tliigh attested the truth of their assertion. South Africa is emphatically a land of snakes. They are so common, and tlie stories told of them are so exaggerated, that strangers coming to the colony are in terror of them for mouths. An Englishman, who had landtd in 86 Forty Years Among the Zulus, Natal a week or two before, stopped one night at my house. Upon retiring he searched his room carefully for the possible snake he might find lurking in some corner. Seeing what he supposed to be a deadly serpent he rushed out and insisted that I should call some one to assist me in killing the creature. Four native boys armed with knob-kerries and canes, and eager for the fray, went into the room ; but after long searching found only the cover of a pail which had been pushed into the corner. Serpents very rarely attack a human being, except in self-defense. There is much truth in the following statement taken from a Natal paper : — " Nearly all the wounds inflicted by venomous snakes upon men are the result of the want of a frank understanding between the parties. The gentleman inadvertently sets his foot on the reptile's tail, and the reptile, under the im- pression that the insult was premeditated, re- sents the action ; or the gentleman has a friend who wishes for a green snake to put in a bottle and endeavors to induce some slippery individual of the race to the bottling condition, while the snake, knowing nothing of the honor of the embalmment for which he is marked out, does his best to give his assaihxnt 'pause,' in order that he may take himself out of the way during the cessation of the strife." Many of the harmless snakes in South Africa so resemble the poisonous ones that Crocodiles and Snakes. 87 it is often (litlicult to tlistinguish tluiii. It would liiirdly 1)0 safe for a person in Natal to iniitato the author of Pilgrim's Progress, of whom it is said in his memoir that, ''One day an adder erossed his path and after stun- ning it with his stick, he opened its mouth and with his fingers plucked out its fangs," by which act he says, '' Had not God been merciful to me, 1 might by my des{>eratcness have brought myself to my end." English adders cannot be handled with im]»uiiity, much less African. The largest ser[)ent in South Africa is the python, or Natal rock snake. No true boa constrictors are found in Africa, their habitat being South America, India, the Moluccas, Cuba, and Australia. Du Chaillu speaks of a python in E(piatorial Africa meiusuring over thirty-three feet in length. In the southern part of the continent 1 never heard (jf one more than twenty-three feet, and the longest I ever saw was twenty-one feet. If attacked, a python will wind itself about a human being and crush him to death ; but for food it usually prefers small mammalia, such iis conies, rabbits, etc. Mr. Thomas Haines, a traveler and artist in South Africa, relates an incident he received from a Dutch boer. '' Oni; of these j)ythons finding a native asleep began t() swallow him, but commencing at the wrong end, and taking only one foot into his mouth, was unable to draw him farther than the fork, and then. 88 Forty Years Among the Zulus. endeavoring to eject the limb, was prevented by his crooked fangs sticking in the flesh. The native awakening screamed lustily, but no help came, and his leg remained a whole day and night in the snake's throat before help arrived to set him free." A sportsman in Natal once found a python asleep and disturbed its slumber by a charge of buckshot. After repeated contortions tbe creature straightened itself out and appeared to be dead. Wishing to save its skin, tlio sportsman offered his native servant a reward if he would carry it to his home. As he was reluctant to do so, on the ground that the ser- pent was only "pretending to be dead," the master took it up and carried it a little wa}^ himself. The native then mustered courage to shoulder the reptile, but soon shouted to his master, " Nkosi ngi size (Master, help me) ! " The python had put his teeth into the native's thigh and was lashing its tail violently in vari- ous directions for a stump or stone to which to fasten itself. Had not the sportsman rushed to his help, the poor Zulu might have had an uncomfortable, if not fatal, squeeze. The largest python I ever saw was brought to me by a party of Zulus who had found it attempting to swallow an antelope. Tlie horns were too spreading to be disposed of, and the serpent was robbed of its meal by the natives, who immediately feasted upon the venison, and brought the snake to me. The creature meas- ured eighteen feet, and was the longest I ever Crocodiles ami JSnuke)<. 89 skinned. So great is the vitality of the python that 1 once saw one wriggHng its tail several hours after it had been killed. In his ''Curiosities of Natural History," Frank Buckland relates that tw(j pythons, one nine and the other eight feet in length, were kept in a box in the Zoological Gardens in London. One morning the keeper found the shorter serpent missing, and on examina- tion noticed that the longer one was greatly distended, having swallowed his companion. As the Zulus believe that the spirits of their ancestors take up their abode in serpents they never eat them, as do some tribes in Central Africa. The puff adder is a much-dreaded snake, owing to its habit of lying in frcM^uented [)atlis and its resemblance to pieces of decayed wood. In Cape Colony they are often seen as large as a man's arm, and a bite from an adder is diili- cult to cure. One day a little son of Mr. Lindley came ujtoii a large adder, and, though a boy only six years (tld, he took of! his shoe and killed it; then seizing it by the tail he dragged it home. A cry dreadeer of those who place any faith in this tradition is few. Deeply conscious of a future state, most of them have fearful forebodings of what may befall them in that state. A Zulu man once said to me as he was about to die, ** I am Forty Years Among the Zulus. sinking into a dark deep pit. I am afraid," He expressed the feeling of benighted Africans generally. Their religion, if spirit worship can be called religion, affords no comfort in a dying hour. For many years I watched carefully the workings of the native mind in times of trouble. It is then they apply to the spirits for aid. Healthy and strong, with food in abundance, and that of the most nutritious kind, naturally vivacious and cheerful in tem- perament, reveling in the excitement of the hunt, the dance, beer party, or carousal over the slaughtered ox, they are as happy as bar- barians can be. Unrestrained in body or mind they enjoy life in their salubrious climate to a great degree. Smiles are generally seen on their faces, and it is doubtful whether a more social people can anywhere be found ; but when visited by affliction their deepest pas- sions are excited. In case of death the head- man of the kraal looks up and around him and says, " This is mysterious. We shall all die if something is not done." In many cases the disease is unknown or it baffles the skill of physicians, which is not strange, for Zulu " medicine men," in attempting to save life, as frequently destroy it by cramming down a multitude of drugs without stopping to watch the effect of one. The afflicted man fixes his suspicion on some individual with whom he has been at variance, but having no clew which would satisfy the minds of others he calls the people together. The attendance is usually Spirit Worship. 99 large, for the neighbors fear lest their absence be construed into an indication of guilt. With grave countenances they seat themselves in a circle on the ground, and after the usual salu- tation and passing round the snuffbox, tlie troubled individual begins his speech : " Men, friends ! to-day you see me in grief. You all know I am a man of peace. T have wronged no one. I have eaten my own food and attended to my own business ; but an enemy is plotting my ruin. My brother has been suddenly taken away. A wizard is destroying us. Tell me what I must do." The replies are guarded, but all unite in the opinion tliat no time should be lost or expense begrudged in applying to a diviner and through him to the spirit world, that the foul deed may be traced to its source. The character and functions of Zulu divin- ers, or spirit doctors, may be briefly described. Various names are given to them. One is izinyanya zokuhula (doctors of smiting), l)e- cause great use is made of canes in smiting the ground by those who consult them. An- other is izanuai (smellei-s out), or discover- ers of criminals and those possessed with witchcraft, believed to be in communication with the amatongo. The diviners' work powerfully on tlie super- stitions of their countrymen. Tliat thuy may become thoroughly acquainted with tlieir art, they endure a great amount of self-sacrifice. For instance, they leave their homes, isolate 100 Forty Years Among the Zulus, themselves from their fellows, live and sleep in solitary places, fraternize with wild animals, endure hunger and cold and talk to the moon until they become almost, if not quite, lunatic. Their clothing is hideous, consisting of skins of crocodiles and pythons, with the teeth of wild cats and fetiches of various kinds about their necks, the bladders of birds and wild beasts on their heads, and a long leopard's skin dangling about their loins. They formerly possessed unlimited power over their deluded countrymen. One visited an American mission station in Natal and warned those who had nominally embraced Christianity that if they remained longer under the influence of the white teacher the}^ would all die. Terrified and weak in the faith many left at once, some never to return. Having observed closely the izanusi while in the process of calling up the spirits, shout- ing "-Yizwaf yizwa! (Hear! hear!)" while the seated consulters beat the ground with their canes, and having listened to the ambiguous oracles delivered to the ignorant and credulous, I have not wondered that the people are deceived. These crafty izanusi do not go into Hades for nothing. A large fat ox is generally the reward and often a goat besides. If not satis- fied, they say to the people, " Give me some- thing to wipe my eyes with," which means that they are unable to see clearly, that they have not been properly compensated. .*. .'•» :. : Sjnrii -m^hip^. '• •»' :\ i •; : itn It Ls a matter of thanksgiving that in vari- ous parts of South Africa the "smelling out" of individuals (pronouncing them witches) is prohibited and a great amount of bloodslied prevented through the intervention of Britisli authority. May the time soon come when it will cease entirely ! It is said that Chaka, who ruled in Zuluhiiid at the beginning of this century, once had the courage to charge all the izanusi in his king- dom with being humbugs. During the night he sprinkled blood about the royal kraal and called the doctors to investigate the cause. One smelt out this person, another that. Only one guessed rightly, saying, "I smell out tlic heavens" (meaning the king). Ills life was spared ; all the rest were killed. Protracted and patient instruction will be needed ere native Christians are wholly eman- cipated from the idea that the ancestral spirits are able to avert evil and that the izanusi have dealings with them. I liad occasion to disci- jiline two church meml)ers of several yeai-s' standing for uniting secretly with their heathen friends in Sacrificing an ox to the spirit of their father; the "doctor" having told them they would die if they refused. Remove tlie deej)^ seated sui)erstitious regard Zulus have for their departed relatives and their faith in tluiir doctors of divination, and the keystone in the arch of their religion will be gone. From what has been said, it is evident that "spirit doctors" discharge a sacerdotal func- 102 ' Forty Years Ar.iong the Zulus. tion, offering up sacrifices for whicli their mer- cenary spirit leads them to demand good pay. In j)ropitiatory sacrifices they usually have a part. It is exceedingly touching to observe the reverential attitude and listen to the appar- ently sincere and fervent supplications of the aged men when engaged in their sacrifices. S. O. Samuelson, Esq., thus speaks of them : — " Beautiful and seemingly heartfelt prayers are offered up to the spirits when., the animal is killed, thanking them for all the mercies, attention, protection, and care of the past, and invoking a continuance of the same. The weakness, helplessness, and worthlessness of humanity are acknowledged and an entire dependence on the spirits and their good offices confessed. The prayer offered up occupies some time, both before and after the animal is killed, and is very interesting to those who understand the native language. . . . When the headman of a kraal performs the sacrifi- cial rite he first selects an animal, and then, with the male members of the kraal, goes into the cattle enclosure into which tlie victim for sacrifice has been previously brought. He then engages in a long earnest prayer to the spirits, holding the assegai specially reserved for such occasions in his hand. The prayer sets forth the weakness, dependence, and pov- erty of the human race, and supplicates guid- ance, strength, health, plenty, and security from those who were in their time human and acquainted with grief, but now are in a better Spirit Worship. 108 position and who alone can give necessary relief. After the prayer he hands the assi'gai to one of his attendants to stai) tlic ox. A short prayer follows, asking tin; spirits to accept favorably the sae-ritice. The blood Mow- ing from tlu' wound is received into vessels ready for the purpose, each hut bringing its own special vessel, while there is one for the whole kraal. It is usimI [\w next day for a special dish, of whicii the natives arc very fond, called ububemie^ consisting of small pitrtions of meat, fat, and entrails minttMJ up and boiled in the blood. A portion of the caul is set lire to and taken from hut to hut in a burning state as a pleasant incense to the spirits, the head- man at the same time uttering a prayer for peace and prosperity to the inmates. The gall bladder is cut out and its contents sprinkled on the children and on himself, with a prayer to the spirits that the young may enjoy health and prosperity and that he may live to witness it. The meat is roasted or boiled within the cattle fold by the men. No females are allowed to go within the enclosure, but meat is sent to them where they are sitting near their huts." CHAPTER XII. SUPERSTITIONS OF THE ZULUS. ZULU superstitions are legion. For a tur- key buzzard to light on a hut, for a cony to run into a kraal, for a toad to jump into a fireplace, is ominous of evil. The bleating of a sheep while being slaughtered is a bad omen. If a cow push off with her horns the lid of a dish that holds Indian corn or other grain, it is a sign that some calamity will happen. No one dares to drink sour milk during a thunderstorm, and no woman ventures to w^ork in the garden the day after a hailstorm. A fowl must never be carried through a field when the corn is tasseling out, lest the crop be blighted. Should a garden be in an unhealthy state, fish skin, the Salter the better, is burned and the ashes scattered over the ground to cure diseases which are supposed to hinder vegetation. Various ceremonies are performed on infants, and fathers are not allowed to see their own babies until their little heads have been smoked and they have undergone other absurd pro- cesses. If twins are born, one is immediately destroyed lest the father die. They justify this habit, saying it is better for the mother and for the remaining child ; but this superstition 104 Superstltiotis of the Zulus. lu' is the true reason. The Zuhis have great faitli in certain medicines and often wear charms or fetiches to ward off diseases and protect them from enemies. One is (»ften seen biting off a bit of root from a piece suspended about his neck to soften the heart of a person with whom he wishes to make a bargain. Before going into battle Zulu warriors drink certain medicines to make their enemies faint-hearttKl. To make dogs serviceable in hunting they aro fed on the beaks and claws of birds. To ren- der a man brave and successful on a hunting excursion he must have leopard's wliiskers pounded fine mixed with his food. The metlicine men carry about the wlicre- withal to make people love or hate, as suits their purpose. If a young man finds his love for a cerUiin damsel unreturned, or suspectiJ that she prefers another, the doctor can give a medicine to make her hate the latter and love tlie former. A heathen mother once administered a pow- erful emetic to her son, who professed Christi- anity, to make him cast up liis new religion. One cold rainy day I was called to examine the corpse of a native which had Ijcen f(»und several miles from my home. The men who discovered it feared they might be accused of murder unless some white man saw the body. Mounting my horse, I rode to the spot and finding no marks of violence I had a grave dug, and called upon some of the twenty or more men present to deposit the dead njan in 106 Forty Years Among the Zulus, his last resting place. Not one of them would budge an inch. I took a small bag of medi- cines or charms from the pocket of his vest (his only article of clothing) and poured them out on my hand. The greatest consternation was depicted on the faces of the natives. They looked on me very much, I imagine, as did the barbarous Melitans upon Paul when he shook off the " venomous beast " from his hand. I had to pull and roll the dead body into the grave with my own hands and offer a prayer, before they would even cover it with earth. After the ride and exposure in the rain I had a violent chill and I dosed myself vigorously, remarking to my wife that it would never do for me to be sick or die just then, as the natives would believe it to be the effect of the dead man's medicines. I was told afterwards that no reward, however great, would have induced one of them to touch that body. « One of the first missionaries to the Zulus was accustomed to take his overcoat to the place of religious service whenever there was a probability of rain. A drought having come, he was importuned by no means to leave behind his " rain-producing garment." In speaking to children and showing Zulu curios, I am sometimes asked about idols wor- shiped by the natives. The Zulus are not image-worshipers. If a Zulu hunter fails to kill for several shots, he will take his gun to a spirit doctor, who after examination usually informs him that his deceased grandfather is angry with Superstitions of the Zulus. 107 him. All ox must be slaughtered before the hunting can go on ; the gall of the animal is scattered over the bodies of those engaged in the sacrifice and a part of the beef is set aside for the use of the spirit. The messenger of the spirits it is said will come and take it ; but it is invariably swallowed by the natives. The most fearful superstitions are tliosc connected with witchcraft. A Zulu's imaL^nna- tion peoples all Southern Africa witli wizaiils, persons of the most dangerous character who are supposed to wander about and depo.'-it poison in the path or before the kraals of those who are victimized. I once p(»isoned a hyena which had been stealing my fowls and buried the carcass. Two men came to me in great excitement, begging me to exhume the hyena and let the vultures consume it, lest wizards should take the liver and poison the whole country. I offered them spades to dig it up themselves, but this they were unwilling to do. Zulus are great believers in dreams. Under their guidance they perform the most alwurd ceremonies and do the strangest things. If one who is on a hunting excursion, far from home, should happen to dream that a relative has died, he must abandon the hunt at once and go and see if it be true. If not, he considers it necessary to consult a spirit doit(»r, who must be paid for his services. Should the information he receives fntiii the spirit world through the doctor confirm his dream, tiien 108 Forty Years Among the Zulus, an ox must be slaughtered as a sacrificial offering. A man dreams that an attempt has been made to take his life by one whom he always regarded as his true friend. On awaking he says: "This is strange; a man who never stoops to meanness wishes to destroy me. I cannot understand it, but it must be true, for ' dreams never lie.' " Although the suspected friend protests his innocence, he immediately cuts his acquaintance. If one dreams of being attacked by a buffalo, or some other wild animal, the dreamer in- quires, "What have I done that the spirits send a wild beast to kill me?" If in time of war the dream is of an enemy coming to murder men, women, and children, so terrified are the people that the kraal must be removed at once to a place of safety. The next dream may be of a serpent coming and saying, "Do you know that when you killed a serpent the other day you knocked in the head of your grandfather who came to visit you?" A fat ox must be slaughtered to appease the offended spirit. Curious to relate, a Zulu's dream of a wedding or dance is ominous of evil, whereas one of a sick or dead person is a good sign. It will be long, I fear, before even Christian Zulus are wholly emancipated from the power of superstitious dreams. Listen to one whose reason and piety were struggling against the absurd notions of his people : — Superstitions of the Zulus. 109 " Of what use will it be if when I pray I am made to arise from my knees by beasts which devour me, when forsooth they are not real? for I cannot get that for which I awake early to pray unto the Lord, being prevented by the beasts which I see. When I was kneeling, there came a snake to do as on other days. I said. No I To-day let me feci by my body that it has already seized me. Then there came a man running to stab mc at once. I conquered him. I went home, having asi'ciided a rock of safety, saying. Oh, forsooth, I liave been hindered by fantasies ! " ^ Lightning fills the native mind with great fear. It is not uncommon to see on the huts half a dozen or more sticks that have been medicated by " lightning doctors " that no harm may occur. These ''doctors" are sup- posed to possess the power of sending the elec- tric current wherever they choose. Hence the people stand in awe of them. The Zulus \)e- lieve in a "bird of heaven," which they say comes down during a thunderstorm and is found in localities which have been struck by lightning. The "doctors" watch for the ajn pearance of this bird, kill it, and u.se its fat to anoint the lightning-sticks on the huts and enalile them to act on the heavens without harm to themselves. Earthquakes are unspcakal)ly awful phenom- ena to the Zulus. One occurred in Natal, in 1850, shortly after I went to my station. The > Callaway'ii Dreaiiiii uf liic /ulutt. 110 Forty Years Among the Zulus. men, savants of the tribe, assembled from far and near to discuss the cause. Some said it was the English firing off big cannon, fifty miles away. Others, and the larger part, attributed it to the rolling over in his grave of Chaka, an old Zulu king. As they could not agree, the decision was left to the missionary. One morn- ing I perceived in front of my door twenty or more men, delegates sent to inquire about the earthquake. I gave them a brief geological lecture and dismissed them, but I never heard whether they were satisfied. When an army is about to invade the enemy's country a peculiar custom is observed to ascer- tain whether victory or defeat will follow. It is that of churning medicines. Two kinds are chosen, one representing their king, the other the enemy. These medicines are placed in separate dishes, and if the one representing the enemy froths up suddenly, whilst that repre- senting the king does not, they regard it as a sign that the enemy will prove too strong for them and the army is not allowed to go out to battle. Sneezing is regarded by the Zulus as an indication of good health, and immediately after this operation they ejaculate thanks to the spirits of their ancestors. The exclama- tion often is: "Spirits of our people, grant me long life!" The time spent in sneezing is considered lucky, for then the spirits are more benevolent than at other times. Zulu diviners, it is said, are apt to sneeze freely Superstitions of tlie ZtUiut. 1 1 L wht'ii ill the process of (livination and it is consideivd a sign that the spirit^s are jirescnt. When cattle stray away from a Zuhi kraal and are h>st, a hawk called isipninnntjumamjati^ about the size of a crow, is consulted. If it points its head in a certain direction, searchers are immediately sent towards that i)oint secure in the belief that they will find the lost animals. 8. C Samuclson, Kscj., luis recorded a large number of Zulu superstitions, among wiiich arc the following: — "Till of late, and perhaps now in some localities, it has been regarded as sorcery to carry manure into a garden, for if he wlio does it should have a larger crop than his neighl>oi"s suspicions might arise that would lead to his death. Thus they are prevented from fertiliz- ing the soil, and the poor women are constantly oblige*! to find new places for planting. '* There are certain mountains which are objects of sj>ecial regard, at which natives dare not point with the extended finger, but witli the fist or thumb, lest thunder and liail storms result. **No one dares to kill a turkey buzzard, lest the arm with which it was done be paralyzed. *' A person aHlicted with mumps must go to an .mt-lK-ar's hole and shout, 'O'-j^// ///e killed in the day- time, it must not be removed until a certain 112 Forty Years Among the Zulus, amount of manoeuvering is accomplished for fear of a deluge, the otter being a water animal. " Women, when sowing grain, carry with them the leaves and roots of the isidwa (yellow lily), as it is supposed to improve the nutritive qualities of the grain to be produced. " When a girl reaches a marriageable age, a cow must be slaughtered for her. If not, she will be a barren wife. " The hair and skin of a hyena, burned, is a powerful remedy for kidney diseases among cattle. ''The crossing of a threshold by a peculiar serpent with a horny spine portends a serious calamity. This serpent is supposed to recover, although its back is broken many times. The spmts restore it. Some hold that the inhlon- hlo, a species of the imamba family, a very dangerous serpent, cannot possibly be killed. " According to Zulu belief, any object, a stick or chip or certain spots in the highway, may be so doctored as to cause death when touched by an individual. " A fabulous animal named utokoto is said to exist, which has a special fondness for the flesh of human females. ''Monkeys' tails, according to Zulu belief, originated as follows: — A party of women who were digging in a garden gave chase to a troop of those animals and beat them on their backs with their heavy hoes. Imme- diately the long tails appeared. Suju'r.stltiiniti of f/w Zulus. \\:\ "A class (.)f spiiits culled imikovu is an ohjci t i)f ^reat terror. riiey are said to be speechless and wandering about in forests. Death is the result of contact with them. '' Natives believe tliat anyone charged with an offense has the power, by eating a certain root, of causing the assenil)ly of men trying him to wander in their minds s«) tiiat they cannot arrive at a decision." A kind of divination called umlin;/o is met with among the Zulus. "A native doctor may pour water into a calabasli full »>f small holes, and by this means, observing the direc- tion in which it spouts, he can divine the direction from whence the disease has come upon his patient. Kings have made use of umlingo to divine the probability of success in their undertakings. This was done in several ways. One was to sprinkle hot water on some of the soldiers about to connnence their march, and if they were not scalded so that blisters were formed tlien tlie enemy would succeed." Uniahope is a clind)ing plant witli red roots, bits of wiiich are worn alwmt the necks by natives for charms. I'he root is chewed by Zulus for a few minutes when going U) battle and then they spit it out in tin* di- rection of the enemy. It is l)elievcd that tlie enemy will in consequence commit some fool- ish act which will lead to destruction. To quote further from Mr. Sanniekson : — "The custom of * rendering the army invul- 114 Forty Years Among the Zulus. nerable,' as it is called, preparatory to its com- mencing hostile operations against an enemy, takes place in the chief kraal and all the men have to attend. The sacrificial beast is selected by the doctor in charge of the pro- ceedings. The animal is at once caught and thrown down by force. The skin is removed from one shoulder, and it is cut out before the animal is killed. The flesh of the shoulder is cut into long strips, roasted on the coals of a fire prepared for the purpose, into which certain kinds of bitter herbs and roots are thrown by the doctor. The flesh is roasted and made to pass through the smoke arising from this fire. The meat is then ready to be eaten ; each man bites off a mouthful of a strip and passes it on to the next man. When the meat is consumed, the doctor sprinkles the men with water into which has been put some pulverized charcoal of the flesh and medicines I have named. All this while the poor victim has been left to writhe in agony. It is now killed and the flesh consumed. It is publicly eaten by all the men present. All the bones are burned. No females may have any of the flesh of an animal killed for this ceremony. " The medicine used by the natives in purifi- cation after killing any one is called icima mlilo (fire-quencher) and it is composed of a variety of ingredients answering very much to this prescription : — Tooth of fox and weasel's bone, Eye of cat and skull of cat, Superstitions of the Zulus. llo And the hooked win^ of bat; Miuidmke root and murderer's jrore, Henbane, hemlock, hellebore. Lithium, storax, bdellium, borax, Ink of cuttlefish and feather Of screech owl smoke together. "A bath is also lu'cessary after the inLHlicine is taken. A native must always go through tlie i»roeess of purification after killing any one, and in case of lioniicide or murder it would l>e a most important bit of evidence against any one could it be i)roved tliat lie had been using the icima mlilo and bad taken a bath soon after such a deed was committed. "There is a class of people, known by the natives as izinsiveIart of this story. A few weeks after lie rearlied homo he doffed all his civilized clotliing, and put on the skins of wild animals like his heathen relatives. He chose a wife from among the heathen, and is now livini^ a])parently with no desire for civilizing intlu- ences. Ills heart was not changed, alaa I and he is a heathen still. Does not this story teach US that civilization alone is inadequatenighted countrymen ?" Well spoken, good fellow ! I think you are sincere. You certainly did not come to the mission station for the sake of filthy lucre. Had you remained in your profession as a ''medicine man," you might ere this have built for yourself a large kraal, married four or five wives, and enjoyed the world as much as any of your heathen friends ; but God's Spirit reached your heart and turned the whole current of your life, and now, like 136 Forty Years Among the Zulus, Andrew, you have found your brother Simon and brought him to Jesus. Another voice rather plaintively breaks on the ear. Converted Zulus obey the injunction, " Confess your faults to one another." " Friends, I have done wrong. I have often heard those words of Scripture, ' Abstain from all appearance of evil ; ' but when I heard the singing and dancing in yonder kraal the other day, I forgot and joined the company of spec- tators. The teacher called me and explained the eighth chapter of 1 Corinthians, and I saw as I never did before that I was sinning against the brethren and wounding their weak con- sciences. I have resolved never to do this again. Pray for me." The missionary, ex animo : Good, there is hope for you and for the rest. The cause of God is looking up. Conscience is not asleep. God grant his aid to-day that I may speak words of encouragement to these tempted but resisting souls ! The meeting closes, and one after another thoughtfully but cheerfully retires to his home. At ten o'clock the bell announces the time for Sabbath-school. How attractive the appear- ance of that well-clad family, consisting of father, mother, and four daughters ! They have walked a distance of eight miles, as they are accustomed to do every pleasant Sabbath, that they may receive religious instruction. There is a father bringing in his arms a little child ! How unlike other Zulu men in that ! The mother is delicate and inadequate to the The SalilnUh at Etfidumbini. 137 task, but he has learned from the gospel that he should not only love his wife, but help bear her burdens. The natives take their seats and bow the head in silent prayer. The sul)- ject fur the morning's sermon is the choice of Ruth, '* Whither thou goest, I will go/' etc., to which all heathen as well as Christians give good attention. Near the close when the question is asked, " Who among you hiis decided to serve God?" the missionary sees in many faces the nspunse, '* I have decided." At three P.M. the bell calls the natives to a '* re- memljcring exercise ;" that is, to give account of what they recollect of the morning's dis- course. Between them all the main thoughts, especially the 8t<^)rie8, are reheai-sed and then application is made of the truth to the heart and conscience. This service over, some stop to ask questions or to sing. A part of Sabbath evening the missionary has to himself, in which a sermon in English is read, then the natives of the household gather for evening prayers, and at nine o'clock all retire, none more joyful than those who can sing, '* One more day's work for Jesus." Among our children Sunday was also a day to be remembered. A friend asked my eldest daughter, not long ago, " Were Sundays made pleasant to you and your brothers and sisters when you were young and living among the Zulus '/ " Her reply w;is as follows : — " Yes. In the first place we always had a treat of some sort for our Sunday dinner. 138 Forty Years Among the Zulus, Nothing to make work in any way, but some- thing we especially fancied and did not have on other days. At one time, mother had a recipe for an English bun, which she baked on Saturday for Sunday. And if we ever got leave to make sugar taffy, it was Saturday afternoon, and the candy was laid by for Sun- day. Sabbath morning special books were brought out and lessons assigned to the older ones, while the little children had certain Sun- day toys, not used on other days, which thus had a sort of freshness and pleasant associa- tions. The morning service in Zulu was level to the understanding of the natives and not above that of intelligent children. We all helped in the singing, and learned to play for it after we had a melodeon. I was made a teacher of small children at seven years of age, and I had occupation for Sunday morning deciding what and how I should teach. In the afternoon we gathered round our parents, and after our lessons and little talks they showed us pictures, daguerreotypes of the friends in America, told us where the}^ lived, and stories about them. We always walked in the garden before tea, and each was allowed to pick a bunch of flowers. Sometimes mother brought out her scrapbooks and read pieces to us, or picture books she had made, of which she was very choice, not letting us handle them ourselves. If the weather were cool, we gath- ered in the kitchen, and the Zulu boys and girls shared in the treat. After tea we sang The Sabbath at Undumbini. 139 with tlicin ; then father trotted the Httle ones on his knee, and we all went tu bed early ; and after mother had tueked ns np we had tlie whispered confidences and earnest prayers that mean so much.' CHAPTER XVI. VISIT TO THE UNITED STATES. — NEW WORK. TWENTY-TWO happy years rolled by, happier I think than they would have been even if I had accepted a call in 1849 from a church in Massachusetts, to become its pas- tor. Not a single Sabbath was I prevented by ill health from preaching. Only once was a doctor, thirty miles away, called to my house, and before his arrival the sick one was con- valescent. The shield of the Almighty pro- tected us from all harm. Twice the alarm was sounded, filling the station people with terror, ^'' I}npi i ngeiie ! (The enemy has come !) " but no enemy appeared. One day as I was cutting up a pig which had been killed, a letter came from the colonial office in Maritzburg, the capital of Natal, saying, " We apprehend a Zulu invasion. Flee at once to a place of safety." I said to Mrs. Tyler, who did not believe there was dan- ger, " Shall we flee ? " " Not till we have made the sausages," was her reply. The alarm was caused by a party of Zulus hunting wild pigs on the borders of the colony, and the report spread that a raid was contemplated. Had an invasion occurred, it would have been impossible for us to escape without two days' warning, as we were fifty miles from the nearest fortifi- 140 VtBit to the United StaUs, 141 cation, to which we sliould h;ive Inicn obli^'ed t(i rru in an ox-wagnii. Hiding in the bush would h;ive been (»ur wisest course. There was an oUl cave a short distance from my house, once occupied by a lion, and into that we shouM have gone, taking food and blankets. Zulus, when on raids, do not, as a rule, spend time in "scouring the bush." What they want is cattle, and all the girls tlu-y can seize. The latter, (»n their return home, are distributed among them f<»r wives. Having charge of a printing press, from wliich there issued the first Zulu New TesUi- ment, two hymn l)ouks, an ecclesiastical history, and a variety of tracts, in addition t<» the ^^Ikwezi (Morning Star)," a monthly pa|)er in the native language, of which 1 was the etlitor for eight years, together witli preaching and itinerating among the knuiLs, overseeing the station, etc., the time was fully and pleas- antly occupied. While at Esiduml)iiii tlie Lord gav»' us six children, whom we earn«stly desire An English archocologist has lately gone to Mashoualand for tiic purpose of removing the f/('6r/.s that has accumulated lor centuries over those ancientruinsat Zimhabye, and in case he lintls Pha-nician inscriptions he may solve tiie (luestion, " Are Kider flaggard's Solomon's Mines anything more than a myth? " The Portuguese, whenasked," Who built those forts? " invariably reply," Solomon's ut the majority of farmers prefer to make an 278 Forty Years Among the Zulus. incision in the lower part of the animal's tail and place there a seton with a few drops of the virus. If it " takes " violently, the tail swells and becomes a mass of putrefaction, and is then chopped off, and if it rises again the process is repeated. The unfortunate brutes suffer greatly in warm weather for want of something with which to brush off the flies. Zulu cows are not noted for giving milk. It takes as many as six of the average kind to give as much as one good American cow. And they have this peculiarity, that they will not let the milker have an}^ until the calves have first been fed. Tiie milkman has to dispute with the calf as to who shall have the largest portion. And in case the calf dies, its mother refuses to give down her milk altogether. We have tried to teach African cows better man- ners, but all in vain. The horns of both oxen and cows are large and wide-spreading, very unlike those in New England. There is another species of African pest, which, though it does not, like the tick, attack persons and animals, makes raids on food, cloth- ing, books, and furniture. I refer to the ants. The ant kingdom is an exceedingly interesting one, an excellent description of which can be found in Professor Drummond's Tropical Africa. These ants, especially annoying to housewives, are of a brownish color ; they build their nests in the walls or under floors, and forage in every direction, making the pan- try their favorite resort. Black ants often Facts Concerning Natal. ■ 279 build their nest in a tree, and woe be to the man who climbs it ! Baldwin, the hunter, tells us of his ascending a tree overhanging a river, in order to shoot a sea cow, and says : " But the ants fell upon me so vigorously and in such countless numbers, Inting so severely, that flesh and blood could not possibly hold out another second, and I was forced to descend. An old sea cow is indebted to the black ants for her life." The termites or white ants are the most destructive, though, properly speaking, they are not ants at all — " holding an intermediate position between the orthopterous and hyme- nopterous families." They work out of sight, incessantly and indefatigably, forming galleries of hardened clay which ramify in various directions from the cell or nest of their kincr and queen. They have a partiality for the floors of dwelling houses, coming up through them into boxes or trunks, not lined with tin, converting their contents, however valuable, into a state of pulp. They often give human beings an unwelcome invitation to descend to a level with themselves. Walking one day in the parlor of a brother missionary, the floor suddenly gave way, and J sank three or four feet. On examination, I found that the ants had consumed, not only the sleepers, but the boards, rendering them too thin to support my weight. They often attack books, eating the margin as far as the print, at which they stop. " In many parts of Africa," Professor Drum- 280 Forty Tears Among the Zulus. mond remarks, " I believe if a man lay down to sleep with wooden leg, it would be a heap of sawdust in the morning." Dr. Livingstone wrote of them: "At some of their operations they beat time in a curious manner. Hundreds of them are engaged in building a large tube, and they wish to beat it smooth. At a signal, they all give three or four energetic beats on the plaster in unison. It produces a sound like the dropping of rain off a bush when touched." The doctor regarded them as a blessing to South Africa, as agents employed in forming a fertile soil.^ It is interesting to observe the swarming pro- cess ; so thick are they, and so white their wings, they have not inaptly been compared to " snowflakes floating about in the air." Cats, dogs, and fowls devour them eagerly. The natives also gather and roast them for eating, regarding them as a luxury. Dr. Livingstone once gave a chief a bottle of preserved apricots, and asked if he had ever tasted anything nicer ; his reply was : " Yes : white ants ! " In some localities ant heaps rise to the height of seven or eight feet. Traveling one winter in the Orange Free State, where there was no firewood, I was in a quandary as to how I should get the wherewithal to boil my kettle. It oc- curred to me that I might utilize an ant heap near my wagon. Taking a spade, I cut off the apex of the conical mound, made a fireplace at the base, punched a hole from top to bottom for 1 Livingstone's Researclies in South Africjv. Facts Concerning Natal. 281 a flue, kindled a fire with some newspapers, and soon had a fine stove though of a novel charac- ter. On the top I placed the kettle, which soon boiled, after which the natives who accompa- nied me cooked their food. The termites, not fancying the heat, ran in every direction. When bedtime came, all the natives had to do was to spread their mats on the ground by the side of a beautiful fire, which lasted till morning, thus sleeping with unusual comfort. As is their custom when any ingen- ious device is resorted to by white people, baffling their own skill, they broke out next morning with the expression: ^^Yek' ahelungu^ ha Jilulwa 'kufa kodwa (O white men, nothing conquers you but death) ! " I am not aware that any contrivance for the extermination or extinction of the white ants has proved successful. Tar, arsenic, strych- nine, corrosive sublimate, and kerosene have been tried, but in vain. The best remedy for the time being I found was hot ashes. Taking up the planks of a floor which the ants had begun to devour, and removing their champings, I sprinkled ashes freely about, which, clogging their mandibles, caused them to leave in dis- gust ; but only to renew operations in another place. The greatest curiosity connected with the termites is the queen, which attains the size and length of a man's finger, and resembles a mass of white jelly. Professor Drummond says : " She is two or three inches in length ; in shape 282 Forty Years Among the Zulus. like a sausage, and white like a bolster." Her palace, or nest, is near the center of the heap, varying in size, but ordinarily just large enough to accommodate her majesty and the king, who is the size of an ordinary ant. No mason's trowel could make the sides of her abode smoother or neater than is done by the workers in the ant colony. In her cell she must remain, for the place of egress and ingress is only large enough to accommodate the common ant, and when she has laid a countless number of eggs she must die. It has been said that when she dies, or is removed, — like bees when their queen is destroyed, — the ants remove to another place ; but I have been unable to verify this. The great enemy of the termites is the ant- bear, an animal as large as a ^ood-sized wolf, with a long nose, but a much longer tongue. It burrows into an ant heap, and puts out its tongue, upon which the insects creep uncon- scious of danger. When well covered, the tongue is drawn in, and the process is repeated until the hunger of the animal is appeased. Ant-bear holes are so common in South Africa that horseback riders have to use great caution lest they fall into them. CHAPTER XXX. PHYSICAL FEATURES AND POLITICAL AFFAIRS. DURBAN is the seaport town of Natal, and has a population, including natives and Asiatics, of nearly 30,000. Its large and substantial buildings, especially the town hall, which cost about £50,000, would be an ornament to any English or American city. Its surround- ings are exceedingly picturesque. On the "Berea," an elevation in the suburbs, reached by tram cars, are numerous and tasteful cot- tages which command a fine view of the light- house and outer anchorage. Its botanical garden, well stocked with flowers, plants, and trees, exotic and indigenous, and under the supervision of a scientific curator, is a favorite place of resort. The streets are wide, hard, and kept scrupulously clean. Water is at pres- ent brought from a small stream a short dis- tance from the town, but a scheme is projected for conveying a larger supply from a river ten miles away at an expense' of £30,000. The matter of defense is not overlooked. A bat- tery, to be furnished with guns of the latest model, commanding the entrance to the bay, is in process of construction. As Durban is one of the principal gateways to the Transvaal, the El Dorado in South Africa, 284 Forty Years Among the Zulus, it has before it the brightest prospects, and bids fair to become a second Melbourne or San Fran- cisco. There seems no reason why it should not be a coaling station for steamers from Amer- ica to China by way of the Cape of Good Hope, as well as from England to Australia. In point of religious and literary privileges the town is highly favored, having large and commodious churches, able ministers, a public library, reading room, and two daily news- papers. The Natal Mercury, an old and popular paper, has for its chief editor a gentleman of great ability. Sir John Robinson, who has lately received the honor of knight- hood. His love and labors for the good of his adopted country prove him to be a Natalian of the right stamp. With untiring patience he has " dinned into the colonial ears for the last quarter of a century " their need of responsible government. May he live to see this boon secured! A keen observer has justly re- marked, " The three-cornered South African problem is no longer Blacks, Boers, and Brit- ish, but Republicanism, Responsible Colonial- ism, and Crown Colonialism. Until Natal strikes for freedom and gains a voice in the direction of its own affairs, it will be behind in the great northern race." The Natalians have voted, with a small majority however, to ask the home government for tlie privilege of ruling themselves. But the question has not yet been decided. Evi- dently expecting it, the progressive party, with Physical Features. 285 Sir John Robinson at their head, have drafted a new responsible constitution for the colony and presented it to the Legislative Council. Among the things recommended, I am glad to see that an annual grant of £20,000 has been devoted to " raise the natives in the scale of civilization." Maritzburg, the colonial capital, fifty miles from Durban, with which it is connected by rail, has been called the loveliest of South African towns. I think it deserves that a[)pel- lation. Its streets are lined with tall Austra- lian gums, which answer the twofold purpose of shade and lightning conductors. Good drinking water is brought in aqueducts from a fountain in the suburbs. Fort Napier, on an elevation just outside, commands the city and surroundings. Prominent among build- ings are the legislative hall, hospital, and the residence of the governor. In the center is an immense square for market purposes, at the end of which is a neat granite monu- ment commemorative of colonists who fell in the Zulu war. Opposite the legislative hall stands a fine statue of Queen Victoria, also a bust of Sir Bartle Frere, a statesman whose memory is cherished with profound respect by all Natalians. The scenery about the capital is exceedingly beautiful, and on the road lead- ing to the coast the traveler, if he has been in Switzerland, is often reminded of that coun- try. Lofty cliffs and huge rocks give variety to the view. In some parts of the colony are 286 Forty Years Among the Zulus, seen immense slabs of granite on hillsides, apparently just ready to launch into deep ravines below, the earth having been washed away from underneath. One, near Esidumbini, measures one hundred feet in length, ninety in width, and thirty in thickness. A cave underneath served as a hiding place for Zulus in the time of Chaka. No thorough geological survey of Natal has been made as yet. A few years ago, there appeared in The Natal Journal the following brief, but good, description : — " The country is composed of granite, gneiss, trap, sandstone, and shale. Of sandstone there are two kinds, the old coarse species, which forms the summits of the Table Mountains, and a much finer grained sort which is associated with carboniferous strata containing impressions of vegetable remains imbedded in the layers. The trap is of different ages. The shale is sometimes gray and sometimes red, and is fis- sured and laminated. Enormous masses of trap rock are scattered over the face of the country. The bed of every water course is encumbered with them. The granite hills inland are gener- ally broad, low, and smoothly rounded protru- sions. Tliese are square, tabular elevations, molded entirely of trap, and may be at once distinguished by the eye from the true sand- stone-slabbed Table Mountains, notwithstanding their general resemblance. There is abundant evidence that during past centuries volcanic eruptions have had much to do in mingling to- Physical Features. 287 gether in a most confused manner various kinds of rocks in every part of the colony." A few gold mines are worked both in Natal and Zululand, but none have as yet proved as rich as those in the Transvaal. But beds of good coal are extensive in the upper districts, and are destined greatly to enrich the colony. Steamers plying between Durban and London are using it instead of English coal, and South America is applying to the colonial government for a monthly supply. The flora of Natal presents much that is attractive and beautiful and well worth atten- tion. During the rainy season the country is brilliant with flowers, and even when the rains liave ceased many more quiet but interesting plants may be found. Perhaps no orders are more fully represented than the Leguminosce and Compositce. Examples of the former are the Kaffir boom, with its showy scarlet blos- soms and bright red seeds with the black spot around the hilum, used by natives and white children alike for necklaces. Throughout the colony can be found the acacias. An Austra- lian species has been introduced and is exten- sively cultivated for the bark, which is sent to England for tanning purposes. Among the Compositce, those which are bet- ter known than the others are the everlasting's or immortelles, the pink and yellow being very common, while the silvery- white variety, with the delicate pink tinge around tlie disk, is found in the upper districts. One species of nym- 288 Forty Years Among the Zulus. phcea, the blue water lily, is quite numerous. The arum, erroneously called calla in America, is found in almost every marshy place. The beautiful blue and white agapanthus, the graceful littonia, and sandei'sonia, and the aloes are among the members of the lily family. Many of the so-called lilies in Natal belong to the order amar ullidacece ; as, for example, the "Natal lily," with its pink- veined perianth, and the "fire lih'," Avhose showy scarlet bells contrast vividly witli the blackness of the hills after the annual burning of the grass. A few epiphytic, and numerous terrestrial, orchids are found in Natal. Some are showy and conspicuous, while others are dull and hardly distinguishable fi'om the grass. Among the cycads, the stangeria is a beautiful form, with its long, frond-like leaves and central cone. Grasses and sedges abound, and the lover of ferns would have no lack of material for inves- tigation. Palms and wild bananas and the ungainl}^ euphorbias are conspicuous among the larger plants. The trees used for cabinetwork are yellow- wood Qpodocarpus) ; sneezewood (^pteroxylon utile) ; stinkwood {oreodapline hidlata)^ so called for its odor, which, however, is useful, in that worms do not attack it ; black ironwood (olea laurifolia)^ a hard, solid wood which takes a fine polish ; and many others of which more use could be made than has been y^t attempted. Physical Features. 289 Waterfalls in Natal are common and beauti- ful. From numerous fountains in the hillsides there issue streams which roll down till they unite with rivers winding their way to the Indian Ocean. A perpendicular fall of three hundred and sixty feet on the Umgeni River is one of surpassing beauty. A Dutch farmer, in attempting to cross the ford about a hundred yards above, in an ox-wagon, had a most nar- row escape. His " forelooper " (ox leader), a Zulu lad of sixteen years, could not swim, and was told by his master to get into the wagon. The Dutchman knew his oxen well — had often seen them swim through swollen streams, and believed he could trust them in this instance. Alas ! he had not calculated on the rapidity of the current. The oxen could not reach the opposite landing, and to his horror he found that bullocks, wagon, and all were approaching the rapids. The native, losing his presence of mind, plunged into the river and was soon taken over the fall. The Dutchman, made of different stuff, concluded that so long as there was life there was hope, and made a desperate attempt to save himself. He cracked his long whip most energetically, calling on each ox by name to do his best. The brave fellows, inspired doubtless by the frantic cries of their driver, swam for dear life. The two leaders got a foot- hold on the bank, and just as the wagon swung about, within a few feet of the abyss, the faithful beasts drew it out and up to a place of safety. The political affairs of Natal are administered 290 Forty Years Among the Zulus. by a governor, appointed by the crown, aided by an executive and legislative council, com- . posed of thirty members, who retain their seat for four years. The administration of justice is conducted by a supreme court, by courts of magistrates in various counties, also by circuit courts held when required. A special judge is appointed for cases among the natives, who are allowed the privilege of appeal to a higher court. Should the matter in dispute be of the value of five hundred pounds, an appeal can be made to the privy council in England. Natives, on certain conditions, may come out from under native law and be governed precisely as white men. Few, however, seem disposed to avail themselves of this privilege. Doubtless the reason is that under purely English law they would not be allowed to exchange cattle for women and practice polygamy. Those who con- form to English customs and dwell in furnished houses of European construction are exempt from the annual hut tax. The great mass pre- fer to live, as did their fathers, in Zulu style. As respects ecclesiastical affairs in Natal, the largest denomination is that of Wesleyan Methodists, but Presbyterians, Congregation- alists, Episcopalians (Church of England), and Roman Catholics are well represented. There are two Baptist churches and one Jewish syn- agogue. Colonial education is under the direction of a council, composed of ten members, with two superintendents, one for the European, the Umzixi'ati Waterfall, Inanda, Xatal. Physical Features. 291 other for the native, schools. There are several collegiate institutions which compare favorably with those in other countries. Natal's exports are sugar, wool, hides, horns, tallow, arrowroot, ginger, cayenne pepper, tea, ivory (from the interior), and the bark of an acacia tree, useful for tanning purposes. Imports are chiefl}^ timber, furniture, agri- cultural implements, leather manufactures, car- riages of various descriptions, clothing, grocer- ies, ironmongery, machinery, ardent spirits, etc. The revenue is derived principally from the customs charges, auction dues, duty on firearms, sale of stamps, gunpowder, crown lands, tax- ation of Europeans and natives, transfer dues, excise, post offices, licenses, etc. The native hut tax amounts in the aggre- gate to .£75,000 per annum, and the custom dues on blankets and beads, purchased to a large extent by natives, reach the sum of X15,- 000. The following comparative statement of the value of imports and exports and customs receipts for the years 1888 and 1889 shows the rate of progress : — IMPORTS. 1889. 1888. Value of imports . . . £4,527,015 £2,890,468 Customs revenue . . . 369,689 3 1 290,084 8 1 EXPORTS. Colonial £957,132 £941,562 Non-Colonial '699,186 '476,309 Total exports . . . £1,656.318 £1,417,871 These figures include rough gold to the value of £584,933 £391,043 292 Forty Years Among the Zulus. According to a late estimate, the combined trade of the colony for 1889 was not far short of six millions sterling. Railways are being pushed with rapidity both to the Transvaal and Orange Free State. The Grand Trunk Line has reached Charles- ton, on the border of the Transvaal, only one hundred and thirty miles from Johannesburg, the greatest "mushroom city" in Africa. This railway is said to be " unequaled in English colonies for profit." It increased the past year to such an extent that, according to a pub- lished estimate, after paying all expenses, a sum of one hundred thousand pounds would accrue to the general revenue of the colony. Various industries now occupy the attention of Natalians, besides the cultivation of tea and sugar cane. Some are engaged in ostrich farming, a few in raising ground nuts (pea- nuts) for the oil. One farmer obtained three hundred bushels from a single acre. Sericulture is attracting attention, the govern- ment affording a little aid. Queens and eggs are imported from Italy. The mulberry grows finely, and there appears no reason why this industry should not prove a success. The most lucrative business in the upper districts is sheep farming. It is said that a man with a mod- erate capital invested in land and sheep is pretty sure to obtain a good return. With the influx of the Anglo-Saxon race into South Africa, the native question is one of deep interest. Zulus in the service of Euro- Physical Features. 293 peans are generally obedient and peaceful, but the influence of their hereditary chiefs is great. Should any real or supposed wrong lead those chiefs to combine against the whites, the result would be war and bloodshed. Let us hope and pray for better things. Instead of believing that they are "doomed like the redskins to fade away before the fiercer energy and tougher fiber and the higher mental power of their pale brethren," as Hepworth Dixon predicted would be the case with the blacks in our southern states, we cherish the belief that they will im- prove under the just and benign authority of England, and, living peacefully alongside of the superior race, will rise gradually but surely to a high standard of Christianity and civiliza- tion. If in the course of divine providence this occurs, it will be, as Froude the historian observed, the "solution of a problem worth more than all the diamonds of Kimberly." APPENDIX. LATER MISSIONS. From latest statistics, the Gordon Memorial Mission in Natal (Scotch), in charge of Rev. James Dalzell, M.D., and his wife, is in a prosperous condition. This mission was founded in 1868 by the Countess of Aberdeen, to commemorate the purpose of her son, the late Honorable James H. H. Gordon, to devote his life to mission work in South Africa, a purpose not executed owing to his early death. A farm was purchased in the upper part of Natal, which is thickly populated by natives, and Dr. Dalzeli, with his zealous wife, is here laboring most successfully. Church members in full standing, April, 1890, were 113. Number of pupils in the schools connected with the station, 322. Two sisters of Mrs. Dalzell, the Misses Lorimer, have a Zulu Girls' Home, to which their services are given gratuitously. The late Dr. Somerville, " the world's evangelist," in his visit to South Africa visited this station and spoke of it in the highest terras. At Impolweni the Free Church of Scotland has an interesting mission in charge of He v. James Scott, with a church membership of 163, and two schools, with 122 pupils. There are tive branch stations con- nected with Impolweni. Also at Maritzburg there is a flourishing native church under the superintendence of Rev. Mr. Bruce. The Hanoverian (German) Society has, according to latest reports, in Natal and Zululand : — Missionaries, white, 25 Native helpers, 50 Stations, 22 Church members, 1,782 295 296 Forty Tears Amonij the Zulus. Church of the Province of South Africa (English Episcopal) : — Ordained laborers, white, 6 Ordained laborers, native, 3 Lay laborers, white, 4 Lay laborers, native, 18 Lady assistants, white, 3 Stations, 12 Baptized Zulus, 1,644 Its chief centers of labor are Durban and Mar- itzburg. The superintendent of native missions in Natal, Rev. A. Ikin, d.d. (Church of England), reports: — Native converts, 475 Stations for Sunday services, 16 Night schools, 8 Day schools, 5 White evangelists, 3 Native evangelists, 23 The Swedish (Lutheran) Church has three mis- sionaries laboring in Natal and Zululand, and not without success. THE ZULU LANGUAGE. One peculiarity of the Znhi language is the clicks derived from intercourse with the Hottentots. They are what are called dental, palatal, and lateral, owing to the Aanner in which they are spoken. The dental is made by compressing the tip of the tongue between the teeth and hastily drawing it back. The letter c is used to denote it. The palatal is a cracking sound which the tongue makes in the roof of the mouth, and is represented by the letter q. The lateral is a sound like clucking to a horse, caused by the tongue and double teeth united. The letter x represents it. Dr. Lepsius in his Standard Alphabet suggested characters for these clicks, but missionaries in Zululand are not inclined to adopt them. The letters used for them are always in italics. Apperidix. 297 There is another sound in the language , happily occurring only in a few words, pronounced as a guttural from the bottom of the throat. It is not a click, but, according to a philologist, ^' a peculiar, hard, rough sound that seems to be made by con- tracting the throat and giving the breath a forcible expulsion, at the same time modifying the sound with a tremulous motion of the epiglottis." Only Zulus, and whites born among them, can express it. Each class of nouns has a prefix which undergoes a change in forming the plural from the singular. In one class the prefix is um, which in the plural is changed into abd ; for instance, iimuntu (person), abantii (persons). Another class has the prefix in, which in the plural is changed to izin; for example, inkomo (cow), izinkomo (cows). In still another class, ill is changed to ama, as ilizwi (word), amazu'i (words). The possessive is formed in a singular manner. Each class of nouns having its preform ative letter, that letter is used in forming this case, w standing for nouns beginning with u in the singular, and b for the plural. Thus ami (of me) umfana (boy), becomes in the possessive umfana icami (my boy) ; plural aba, abafana bami (my boys). In another class, in being the prefix in ihe singular, y is used, making yami, in the plural, zami; ihn^, inkomo yami (my cow), izin koino zami (my cows). In forming the possessive his or her, the basis is a (of) and ke (him). For example, in the class commencing with vni, we have umfana wake (his boy), plural abafana bake (his boys). With in for prefix, y is used, as inkomo yake (his cow), plural, izinkomo zake (his cows). For the possessive their, the ground form is abo: for ex- ample, abantwana babo (their children), izinkomo zabo (their cows). Great simplicity is apparent in the construction of verbs. Take, for example, the verb love, ukntanda, uku being the sign of the infinitive, and tanda the 298 Forty Years Avwiuj the Zulus. root. JSfgi is the pronoun of the first person, and ya the auxiliary. JSTgi ya tanda (I love) ; second person, u ya tanda (thou lovest) ; third person, u ya tanda (he loves) ; plural, si ya tanda (we love) ; ni ya tanda (ye love); ha ya tanda (they love). Imperfect tense, nga tanda (I was loving) ; wa * tanda (thou wast loving) ; ica ianda (he was lov- ing). Perfect tense, ngi tandile (I have loved); u tandile (thou hast loved) ; etc. Pluperfect, hengi tandile (I had loved) ; u be tandile (thou hadst loved) ; etc. Future, ngi ya kit tanda (I will love) ; u ya ku tanda (thou wilt love) ; etc. The impera- tive is the root, tanda. Rev. Lewis Grout, for fifteen years a missionary in Natal, author of a Zulu grammar and a booli entitled " Zululand," justly remarks in regard to the verbs: ''One root will often give us a large stem with a good number of branches and no small amount of fruit. Thus from the verb bona, see, we have bonisa, cause to see; botiisisa, show, show clearly; bonela, see for; bonelela, see for each other; bonisana, cause each other to see, show each other; bonakala, appear, be visible; bonakalisa, make vis- ible; uniboneli, a spectator; umbonelo, a spectacle; umbonisi, an overseer; umboniso, a show; isibono, a sight, curiosity; isihoniso, a vision; isibonakalo, an appearance; isibonakaliso , a revelation; and all this without going into the passive voice ; as bonwa, be seen; bonisica, caused to be seen; bonisiswa, cause to be clearly seen; et cetera ^ THE EXILED CHIEFS. Mr. Melmotii Osborn, c.m.g., British commissioner and chief magistrate in Zululand, attributes the late political revolution, which rendered the expatriation of the Zulu chiefs necessary, to the intrigues of Dutch farmers who had settled in the country. '' The Boers," he says, '' assisted the Usutus to expel Usibepu, causing frightful bloodshed, and then Appendix. 290 quarreled wi^h their allies in regard to the division of the laud. The Boers, in truth, ran all over the country and respected no man's rights. They poi- soned the minds of the Zulus against us by inciting them to rebellion. What they said was simply this: * We [the Boers] made Mpande king over you. IIo ruled you as an independent sovereign and lived and reigned to a good old age. Now the British have taken your country and deposed your king. This would not have happened had you stuck to us,' e(c. The Boers indeed proclaimed Dinizulu king on the death of Cetywayo, and intrigued with Ndabuko (Dinizulu's uncle and Cetywayo's full brother) to oust the British from Zululand. Lucas Meyer and his colleagues even went so far as to perform the scriptural ceremony of anointing Dinizulu, and they encouraged him to ride about on a white horse, *and to flout British authority in every way possible. I should remark that pensions had been granted to the principal chiefs to compensate them for the loss of any advantages attaching to their position. These were refused by Dinizulu and his uncle, Ndabuko, who was the principal and most dangerous oflender. In consequence of the dispute between the Boers and Ndabuko over the division of the land, Sir Arthur Havelock, as special commissioner, made an agreement with the Boer representatives, dated October 22, 18.s6, by which a. certain line was drawn and the Boers were to be kept within the territory known as the New Republic. The Boers, however, did not respect the line of demarcation, and I, who was doing my best to preserve order and prevent injustice to the Zulus, proclaimed the country to be under British protection. Afterwards it was annexed to the British crown, and magistrates were appointed to administer justice and secure good order. The Zulus — the vast majority of them — were anxious to become British subjects; it was only the royal household and a small section of the people inflamed by the Boers, and those 300 Forty Years Among the Zulus. Zulus that were included in the New Republic, who attempted to resist. The Boers said to ihe Zulus: ' Look at us ; the British came and took our country, but we beat them and drove them out. Why don't you do the same?' Dinizulu asserted his supposed rig-ht to rule as an independent king. He even put people to death, and seized the cattle of others. The magistrates and officers of the government were ignored; communications were made direct to the special commissioner, Sir Arthur Havelock; and Dinizulu posed as an independent ruler, of whom the Queen was but the equal and no more. The country was in a very serious state, and I foresaw that worse trouble was impending. There was only one possible remedy. I consider it would be a disastrous mistake to allow the exiled chiefs to go baq^ to Zululand. From the moment of their de- parture the country has been peaceful; but if they were permitted to return there would only be a repetition of what occurred after Cetywa>o's res- toration. There was fearful bloodshed, and misery to women and children, immediately after that event. Zululand is now as quiet and prosperous as any country on earth, and does not cost the British taxpayer a single penny for its internal adminis- tration. British rule is accepted by all the Zulus, as is evidenced by the hundreds of cases which they bring before the resident magistrates every mouth." i THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. 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