IC-NRLF Sfi IMS r o> o SKETCHES OF LIBERIA; I COMPRISING A BRIEF ACCOUNT i I GEOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, AND DISEASES, I \ I REPUBLIC OF LIBERIA. H ! BY J. Lato Colonial Physician and U. S. Agent in Liberia. WASHINGTON : ; > K i: . i' in \ r i ' VV^ . -- SKETCHES OF LIBERIA: COMPRISING A BRIEF ACCOUNT GEOGRAPHY, CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, AND DISEASES, OF THE REPUBLIC OF LIBERIA. BY J. W. LUGENBEEL, Late Colonial Physician'knd U. S. Agent in Liberia, WASHINGTON : C. ALEXANDER, PRINTER, 1850. US CONTENTS. Page. Introduction , 5 SKETCH NO. I. Geography 6 SKETCH NO. II. Settlements 9 SKETCH NO. III. Climate and Seasons ? 12 SKETCH NO. IV. Productions 16 SKETCH NO. V. Produttions continued Exportable articles 21 SKETCH NO. VI. Productions continued Animals . 2G SKETCH NO. VII. Diseases Acclimating Fever 3Q SKETCH NO. VIII. Diseases continued T 35 Conclusion B ., r ..., 3D M192235 SKETCHES OF LIBERIA, INTRODUCTION. A decided conviction of the necessity of a work in which the earnest inquirer may find the principal topics of information, which he may desire, respecting the Re- public of Liberia, is the motive which has induced the author of these sketches to consent to their publication k His long residence in Liberia, and the great care with which he endeavored to make obser- vations, and to acquire information from the most authentic sources, embolden him to believe that these sketches j presented as they are with the utmost ingenuousness, are worthy the candid consideration of all who desire a knowledge of the truth , respect- ing the condition and prospects of the little African Republic. Though they may possi- bly contain some slight inaccuracies, yet the author believes that a more truthful, com- prehensive, and impartial account of mat- ters and things as they really exist in Li- beria, has not been given to the public. And with no other motive in view than a desire to impart needful and correct infor- mation, he leaves this little work to the candid perusal of the unbiassed reader ; in the hope that some good may result from this part of his labors in the cause of hu- manity. It was his design at first to preface these sketches with an outline of the history of Liberia, but fearing that this would too greatly swell the size of this pamphlet, lie has concluded to omit all historical de- tails i and to present a simple and concise account of Liberia as it is. It may not be amiss, however, to state briefly, for the information of those persons whose atten- tion has not been particularly directed to the rise and progress of the young Repub- lic) that the first company of emigrants sent from this country under the auspices of the American Colonization Society, em- barked at New York) in February, 1820. They did not) however, succeed in estab- lishing a permanent asylum for themselves and for their followers and descendants, until the early part of the year 1822 ; at which tittle the American flag was first hoisted on Cape Mesurado, the site of the present handsome and flourishing town of Monrovia* From that time, the little co- lony continued to progress, with various trials and discouragements, under the go- vernment of the indefatigable Ashmun, and other white persons sent out from time to time by the Colonization Society, until the early part of 1839, when, under the government of Thomas Buchanan, Esq., the " Commonwealth " was established ; marking a new epoch in the progress as well as in the history of Liberia. Gov. Bu- chanan having died while in the discharge of the arduous and responsible duties of his station, the management of the government, devolved on Gen. Joseph J. Roberts, the Lieutenant Governor, who was appointed Governor cf the Commonwealth by the SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Geography Extent of territory. Colonization Society, soon after the melan- choly tidings of the death of Governor Buchanan reached the United States ; and who continued to fill the office, under the auspices of the Society, until the establish- ment of the Republic, and the consequent new organization of the Government. In the month of July, 1847, a convention of delegates, elected by the people, met at Monrovia, and formed the Constitution of the REPUBLIC OF LIBERIA, which, with a declaration of independence, was given to the people, and published to the world. And in the month of October of that year, Gov. Roberts was elected the first President of the Republic. During the succeeding year, the independence of the Republic of Liberia was formally recognized and ac- knowledged by the Governments of Great Britain and France. And thus, in about twenty-six years from the time of the found- ing of a little colony on the western coast of Africa, composed of about one hundred free persons of color from the United States, an independent Republic composed entire- ly of colored persons, has sprung up as it were on that distant coast, recognized by two of the most powerful nations in the world, and standing "self-poised and erect," a monument of American benevolence, under the direction and fostering care of Divine Providence. To all who may wish to peruse a very interesting, correct, and strikingly beautiful history of Liberia, the author cordially re- commends a little book which has lately appeared, the " JVeio Republic," written by an American lady, and published by the 1 Massachusetts Sabbath School Society. SKETCH No. I. GEOGRAPHY. That portion of the western coast of Africa which has received the ap- pellation of Liberia, embraces a tract of country included between the parallels of 40 20' and 7 north latitude, extending about 400 miles along the coast. All the territory which lies between these two points has been purchased from the original pro- prietors and rightful owners of the soil, ex- cept two or three small tracts, comprising in all about twenty-five miles of sea-coast. Negotiations will be entered into, as early as practicable, for the fair and honorable pur- chase of these remaining tracts ; and also for that important section of country lying be- tween the northern boundary of Liberia and the Colony of Sierra Leone. It is hoped and expected that these purchases will soon be effected; and that the whole line of the sea- coast between the British Colony and the south-eastern boundary of "Maryland in Liberia," (about 500 miles.) will soon be under the jurisdiction and government of the Republic and the Maryland Colony. The first tract was purchased in the early part of 1822, embracing a small extent of territory in the vicinity of Cape Mesurado. Other portions have, at different times r been purchased the greater part within the last few years. The interior boundaries of the purchased tracts are generally not defi- nitely prescribed. They usually extend from about ten to thirty miles from the coast. In no instance, have the natives, from whom the land was purchased, been re- quired to remove their residences, or to abandon their usual customs, except that of trading in slaves, and the practice of such superstitious rites or ceremonies as NOTE. Since the above was put in type, information has been received from Liberia of the purchase, except two small tracts of about five miles each, of all the territory above refprred to, in- cluding Gallinas, which, until very lately, was one of the most noted slave-marts on the coast of Africa. SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Appearance of the Country Water Soil and Rivers. tend to deprive any of their fellow beings of life. And, in all the written contracts which have been enfered into between the Agents of the Colonization Society and the native chiefs, the latter have invariably ob- ligated themselves, in behalf of the people over whom they preside, to conform to the laws and regulations of the Liberia govern- ment. As in most other countries, similarly situated, the land in the immediate vicinity of the ocean in Liberia, is generally low; and, in some places, it is very marshy. There are some elevated spots, however ; such as those on which the villages of Mon- rovia and Harper are located. The land generally becomes more elevated towards the interior; and, in some places, within fifty miles of the coast, it is quite mountain- ous. Far as the eye can reach "from the highest points of land in the vicinity of the ocean, the whole country presents the appearance of a deep-, unbroken forest, with hill-top rising above hill-top towards the Vast inte- rior; the country consisting, hot as is sup- posed by some persons, of arid plains and burning sands, but of hills and valleys, covered wkh the verdure of perpetual spring. The country is well watered: many beau- tiful streams may be seen winding their way amidst blooming flowers and wild shrubbery; and many cooling springs of clear, sparkling water invite the weary traveler to linger and quench his thirst. In all the settlements in Liberia, good water can be procured without much difficulty; and though in the 'dry season, as in this country after a long dry spell in summer, some of the springs fail, for a time; yet, as good water can always be obtained by dig- ing wells, and as many of the springs never fail, there need not be any fear about getting plenty of good water at any time in the year. Soil. The soil of Liberia, like that of [ other countries, varies in appearancft, quali- ty, and productiveness. That of the uplands, though generally much inferior to that of the low lands, is better adapted for some articles. The upland soil usually consists of a reddish clay, more or less mixed with soft rocks and stones, containing consider- able quantities of iron. That of the low- lands, in the immediate vicinity of the ocean, consists principally of sand; and it is really astonishing to perceive how well many vegetables will grow in this kind of soil, even within fifty yards of the otfean, in some places. Besides this sandy soil-, there are two other varieties of lowland soil ; one of which is that on the banks of the rivers, within a few miles of the sea: this consists of a loose, deep, black mould; which is peculiarly adapted to the growth of those kinds of vegetables which thrive best during the dry season. The other variety is that which is generally found ex- tending back from the banks of the rivers, farther from the sea than the last named: this consists of a light-colored clay, more or less tempered with sand; and it is well adapted to almost every kind of vegetable which will thrive in tropical climates. Rivers. There are no very large livers in Liberia; and, although some of them are from one-fourth to three-fourths of a mile wide, for fifty miles or more from their en- trance into the ocean ; yet, none of them are navigable to a greater distance than twenty miles; the navigation being obstruct- ed by rapids. The St. Paul's, the St. John's, and the Junk are the largest ; and, indeed, they are the only rivers of any considerable length or width. The other principal rivers are the Cape Mount, the Mechlin, the New Cess, the Grand Cess, the Sanguin, the Sinou, and the Grand Sesters. Some of these present a bold ap- pearance at their mouths; but they are all comparatively short ; and none of them are navigable for boats, or even for canoey, more than twenty miles. SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Rivers St. Paul's St. John's and Junk. The St. Paul's river is a beautiful stream of water. It is three-fourths of a mile wide at the widest part, (at Caldwell,) and about three-eighths of a mile wide at Miilsburg, about fourteen miles from its mouth. The banks of this river rise from ten to twenty feet above the water; and, except in places which have been cleared, they are covered with large forest trees; among which may be seen the graceful palm, rearing aloft its green-tufted head, and standing in all its pride and beauty, the ornament and the glory of its native land. The St. Paul's is perhaps the longest river in Liberia. It is studded with many beautiful islands, abounding in camwood, palm, and many other valuable forest trees ; and its banks furnish many beautiful sites for residences. Many native hamlets may be seen on the banks of this lovely river the homes of the untutored children of the forest the benighted sons and daughters of Africa. The St Paul's bifurcates about three miles from its mouth: the principal stream rolls on towards the ocean, while the other fork flows in a south-easterly direction, almost parallel with the beach, and unites with the little Mesurado river near its mouth; and thus an island is formed, about eight miles long, and from one to two in width, called Bushrod Island. This latter fork of the river is called Stockton Creek, in honor of Com- modore Stockton of the United States Navy. The St. John's river is also a beautiful stream. It is about sixty miles south-east of the St. Paul's ; and it flows through that part of Liberia, which is known as the Grand Bassa country. At the widest point, it is nearly or quite a mile wide. Its length, however, is supposed to be less than that of the St. Paul's. The St. John's is also studded with numerous islands ; the largest of which is Factory Island, about three miles from its mouth. The banks of this river also rise considerably above the water ; and the land bordering on it is also very productive. The Junk river, which is about equidis- tant from the other two named rivers, is the third in size and importance. The main branch is supposed to be equal in length to the St. John's. The northern branch, which is only about forty miles long, is noted as a thoroughfare between Monrovia and Marshall. At the place of embarkation , a few miles below its source, it is not more than five yards wide ; but it gradually ex- [ pands to the width of more than half a mile. The appearance of the country along the banks of these rivers, and of the numerous little islands which they form, is highly picturesque. The banks of the St. Paul's and the St. John's, in many places, present encourag- ing scenes of agricultural industry ; show- ing the handiwork of a people, whose social condition is vastly superior to that of their aboriginal neighbors; and who are thus placing before the indolent and improvident natives, illustrations of the great superiority of the habits of civilized people to their own degrading customs ; examples which must eventually exert a powerful influence on the minds and practice of the contiguous native tribes, And thus, while the mind of the traveler is oppressed by the melancholy considera- tion of the moral and intellectual darkness of the scattered tribes of human beings, whose desolate-looking hamlets frequently meet his view, as he wends his way amidst the dense forests of the uncultivated hills and dales of Africa; he is encouraged to believe that the time will come, when this extensive " wilderness shall be made glad" by the labors of industrious agriculturists, and when this vast desert of intellectual and moral degradation "shall rejoice, and blos- som as the rose." SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Settlements Monrovia. SKETCH No. 2. SETTLEMENTS. The villages and town- ships in Liberia, are Monrovia, New Georgia, Caldwell, Virginia, Millsburg Marshall, Edina, Bassa Cove, Bexley, Greenville and Readsville. Besides these, there are a few other localities, which are sometimes called by one name and some- times by another. Monrovia is the largest and oldest of ali the settlements ; and it is the metropolis, and the seat of government of the Republic. It is located near the mouth of the Mesu- rado river, (a small stream about fifteen miles long,) about four miles southeast of the entrance of the St. Paul's river into the ocean, on an elevated site, immediately in the rear of Cape Mesurado, in latitude 6 19' North. The highest point of the hill on which the village stands, and which is near its centre, is about eighty feet above the level of the ocean, and about three- fourths of a mile from the summit of the Cape, which is about two hundred and fifty feet above the sea. Cape Mesurado is a bold promontory, covered with massive forest trees and dense undergrowth ; ex- cept in places which have been cleared. On the summit of the Cape is a light-house and a fort ; and along the sloping declivity, towards the village of Monrovia, there are several cleared lots, on which small houses have been erected ; in some places, afford- ing very pleasant places of residence. The greater part of the promontory, however, is very rocky. The course of the coast north of the Cape, forms a kind of bay, which generally affords safe anchorage for vessels ; and the cove, near the base of the Cape, affords as good a landing on the beach as can be found on almost any other part of the coast. The village of Monrovia, although more compact than any of the other settlements in Liberia, occupies a considerable extent of ground ; being about three-fourths of a mile in. length. It is laid off with as much regularity as the location will allow ; and the streets, of which there are about fifteen in number, have received regular names. The village is divided into lots of one-fourth of an acre, and most of the dwelling-houses have a lot attached to each of them. Most of the lots, and several of the streets, are adorned with various tropical fruit trees \J and some of the gardens present a hand- some appearance. If the streets were kept entirely clear of weeds and bushes, the village of Monrovia, viewed from the sum- mit of the Cape, or from the mouth of the Mesurado river, would present a beautiful appearance, in contrast with the dense forest, by which it is almost surrounded. The houses are generally one story or a story and a half high : some are two full stories. Many of them are substantially built of stone or brick ; and some of the best houses are built partly of both these materials. The state-house is a large stone building, which was erected in 1843-4, at an expense of nearly five thousand dollars. In the rear of this building, is a substantial stone prison. There are three commodious stone houses for public worship in the village Methodist, Baptist and Presby- terian ; nearly all of the professing Christians in the place being attached to one or the other of these religious denominations. At the base of the hill on which stand the principal dwelling houses, there are several large stone buildings, which are occupied as stores and warehouses. The dwellings of many of the citizens of Monrovia are not only comfortably, but elegantly, and some of them richly, furnished ; and some of the residents of this little bustling me- tropolis live in a style of ease and affluence, which does not comport with the contracted views of those persons, who regard a resi- dence in Africa as necessarily associated 10 SKETCHES OFL1BEKIA. New Georgia Caldwoll Virginia Millsburg and Marshall. \vith the almost entire privation of the good things of this life. For several years past, there have been two newspapers published regularly at Monrovia ; the " Liberia Herald, "and " Africa's Luminary." The population of Monrovia is about twelve hundred ; exclusive of native children and youths who reside in the families of the citizens. New Georgia is a small township, located on the eastern side of Stockton Creek, about five miles from Monrovia. It is occupied principally by native Africans, who were formerly slaves. Upwards of two hundred of the liberated Africans who have been, or who now are, residents of New Georgia, were sent to Liberia by the United States Government, at different times. Many of these have married persons, who were born in the United States ; and have thereby become more strongly identified with the Liberians, as citizens of the Republic. Some of them are partially educated; and, a few years ago, one of them occupied a seat in the Legislature. As most of the citizens of New Georgia have taken the oath of allegiance, they are permitted to enjoy equal immunities with other citizens. A great portion of the vegetables which are used in Monrovia are raised at New Georgia. Caldwell is situated on the eastern side of the St. Paul 's river. The whole settle- ment, which is divided for convenience, into Upper and Lower Caldwell, is about six miles in length, extending along the bank of the river ; the nearest part to Monrovia being about nine miles distant. The houses are from one hundred yards to a quarter of a mile, or more, apart ; and, of course, this settlement has not much the appearance of a town. Some of the most enterprising farmers in Liberia reside at this place. The land about Caldwell is generally re- markably productive. Virginia, or New Virginia, as it is some- times called, is a new settlement, formed principally in the early part of 184ff. It is also on the St. Paul's river, opposite Caldwell. This is the site of the United States Receptacle for liberated Africans, erected in 1847. J\Kllsburg is the farthest settlement from the sea-coast of any in Liberia. It is situ- ated on the northern bank of the St. Paul's river, about fourteen miles from its mouth, and about twenty miles from Monrovia. Like the other farming settlements, the houses generally are separated at a consider- able distance from one another ; so that, the whole township extends about a mile and a half along the bank of the river. Millsburg is perhaps the most beautiful, and one of the most healthy locations in Liberia. The land is remarkably good, and of easy cultivation. A flourishing Female Academy is in operation at this place, under the care of Mrs. Wilkins, missionary of the Methodist Episcopal Church. And, on the opposite side of the river is "White Plains, a mission station of the same Church, Besides these settlements, there are nu- merous other points along the St. Paul's river, which are occupied by farmers ; so that, the banks of this beautiful stream pre- sent, in many places, the appearance of agricultural industry and comfort. Marshall is situated at the mouth of the Junk river, about thirty-five miles south of Monrovia. Most of the houses in this place are built along the sea-shore. This place is particularly noted for the manu- facture of lime; which is obtained altogether from oyster and other shells. Most of the lime that is used in Liberia is made in the vicinity of Marshall. The river at this place abounds in oysters. And though they are not quite equal to those procured in some parts of the United States, yet they SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 11 Edina Bsssa Cove Bexley Greenville and Readsville. are quite palatable, when served up as they ought to be. Edina is located on the northern bank of the St. John 's river, about half a mile from its mouth. It is handsomely situated ; and, in reference to the healthiness of the location, it is perhaps equal to most others in Liberia. Some of the citizens of Edina are engaged in the cultivation of exportable articles of produce. Bassa Cove is located at the junction of the Benson river (a small stream) with the St. John's, nearly opposite Edina. Several of the citizens of this place also have given considerable attention to the cultivation of coffee, arrow-root, and ginger, during the last few years. Bexley is situated on the northern side of the St. John's river, about six miles from its mouth. This place, like the settlements on the St. Paul's river, occupies a consider- able extent of territory. It is divided into Upper and Lower Bexley ; both together extending about four miles along the river. Bexley is a fine farming settlement ; the land is excellent ; and the location is com- paratively healthy. Several of the citizens of this place are pretty actively engaged in cultivating articles for exportation. This is certainly one of the most interesting settle- ments in Liberia. The mission of the Baptist Board of Foreign Missions is located at this place ; also the head-quarters of the Southern Baptist Mission, Greenville is situated at the mouth of the Sinou river, about one hundred and thirty miles by sea southeast of Monrovia. Like the settlement of Marshall, most of the houses are located along the sea-shore. Greenville presents a handsome appearance from the anchorage. It is one of the most healthy settlements in Liberia, The land in the immediate vicinity of Greenville, and indeed, of all the other settlements near the sea-shore, is much inferior to that on the banks of the rivers, several miles from their entrance into the ocean. Conse- quently, those persons who expect to live by " the sweat of their brow," in the culti- vation of the soil, will find it greatly to their advantage to locate beyond the sound of the breaking surf of the ocean. Readsville is a small farming settlement, on the Sinou river, about five miles above Greenville. It was formed principally by the people who were manumitted by the late Mrs. Read of Mississippi. In every settlement, there is one place, or more, of public worship, in which religious services are regularly held. And, in nearly every settlement, there is one regular day and Sunday school, or more. The princi- pal deficiency in the system of education in Liberia, consists in the inability to procure the services of a sufficient number of com- petent teachers. I trust that the time is not far distant, when a more uniform, per- manent, and effectual system of education will be in operation, in all the settlements in Liberia. Most of the schools are sup- ported by benevolent societies in the United States ; and most of the pulpits are filled by ministers who receive stated salaries from one or other of the. Missionary Societies in the United States. As the census has not been taken for several years, I cannot give the exact popu- lation of the different settlements, and the exact aggregate population of the Republic. I think, however, that the whole number of inhabitants of the Republic, exclusive of the aborigines, may be set down at about 4,000. MARYLAND IN LIBERIA. The Colony of "Maryland in Liberia," which has always maintained a distinctive haracter, and which has always been under a different government, from the Republic of Liberia, was established in the early part of the year 1834. Ever since that period, it has continued to progress in in 12 SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Climate and seasons rainy and dry seasons. terest and importance ; and, at present, it occupies a prominent position, as an asylum for the proscribed descendants of Ham ; to whom the siren song of " My native land " loses its mellowing cadence in the thrilling, patriotic sound of " Sweet land of liberty." This interesting Colony is located about two hundred and fifty miles by sea south- east from Monrovia. Harper, the principal town or settlement, is situated near the point of the Cape ; (Cape Palmas, a bold projecting promontory, which is one of the most prominent points or land-marks on the western coast of Africa ;) and, from the anchorage, it presents a handsome appear- ance. At the distance of about half a mile from Harper is the town of East Harper; In which are several beautiful sites fo'r residences, commanding a fine view of the Qcean, and of the adjacent hills and vales. Between these two villages, there are two large native towns, comprising several hundred houses, which present a marked contrast with the comfortable looking dwell- ings of the colonists. At the distance of about two and a half miles beyond East Harper is another settlement, called Tub- mantown. Mpst of the land near the road between these two villages is occupied by the colonists ; so that on both sides of this highway, many neat little cottages may be seen, and many handsome gardens and small farms. The whole population of Maryland in Li- beria, exclusive of aborigines, is about 900. SKETCH No. 3. CLIMATE AND SEASONS. The territory of Liberia being within a few degrees of tlie equator, of course the nature of the climate is essentially different from that of the United States, the vicissitudes of spring, summer, autumn, and winter, not being ex- perienced in the equatorial regions of the earth ; there being continued su mmer weather throughout the year; interrupted only by occasional slight variations in {he thermo- metrical state of the atmosphere; caused by the greater strength of the ordinary breezes, and by clouds and rain; which latter pre- vail so much more, during one half of the year, than during the other half, as to give rise to the usually recognized division of the year into two seasons the wet or rainy season, and the dry season; or, in common parlance, "the rains" and 'Uhe dries;" the former of which answers nearly to summer and autumn, and the latter to winter and spring, in temperate latitudes. This unqualified and somewhat arbitrary division of the year, however, has led many persons into error, respecting the real state of the weather, during these two seasons; some supposing that during the rainy sea- son, more or less rain falls every day; and, on the other hand, during the dry season, an uninterrupted spell of hot and dry weather prevails for six successive months. This is so far from being the case, that, as a general rule, it may be stated, that some rain falls during every month in the year; and, in every month, there is some fine, clear, pleasant weather. During my resi- dence in Liberia, I seldom observed a de- viation from this general rule. Much more rain, however, falls, during the six months beginning with May, than during the re- maining six months beginning with No- vember. It is difficult, however, to deter- mine at what time each of the two seasons actually commences and closes. As a general rule, I think the middle of May may be set down as the beginning of the rainy season, and the middle of November that of the dry season. In order, however, to give an accurate and comprehensive statement of the character of the climate and seasons of Liberia, it may be the best plan, to note the vicissitudes of each month in the year, as they are usually presented. SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 13 January harmattan wind February and March. January is usually the driest, and one of the warmest months in the year. Some- times, during this month, no rain at all falls; but generally there are occasional slight showers, particularly at night. Were it not for the sea-breeze, which prevails with almost uninterrupted regularity, during the greater part of the day, on almost every day throughout the year, the weather would be exceedingly oppressive, during the first three or four months of the year. As it is, the oppressiveness of the rays of the tropical sun, is greatly mitigated by the cooling breezes from the ocean; which usually blow from about 10 o'clock A. M. to about 10 P. M., the land-breeze occupy- ing the remainder of the night and morning; except for an hour or two about the middle of the night, and about an hour in the fore- noon. During these intervals, the atmo- sphere is sometimes very oppressive. The regularity of the sea-breeze, especially during the month of January, is sometimes interrupted by the longer continuance of the land-breeze, which occasionally does not cease blowing until 2 or 3 o'clock P. M. This is what is called the harmattan wind; about which a great deal has been written; but which does not generally fully accord with the forced descriptions of hasty ob- servers or copyists. The principal peculiarity of the harmattan wind consists in its drying properties, and its very sensible coolness, especially early in the morning. It seldom, perhaps never, continues during the whole day; and usual- ly not much longer than the ordinary land- breeze, at other times in the year. When this wind blows pretty strongly, the leaves and covers of books sometimes curl, as if they had been placed near a fire; the seams of furniture, and of wooden vessels, some- times open considerably, and the skin of persons sometimes feels peculiarly dry and unpleasant, in consequence of the rapid evaporation of both the sensible and the in- sensible perspiration. But these effects are usually by no means so great as they have been represented to be. What is generally called the harmattan season usually com- mences about the middle of December, and continues until the latter part of February. During this time, especially during the month of January, the atmosphere has a smoky appearance, similar to what is termed Indian summer in the United States, but generally more hazy. The average height of the mercury in the thermometer, during the month of January, is about 85, it seldom varies more than 10, during the twenty-four hours of the day; and usually it does not vary more than four degrees between the hours of 10 A. M. and 10 P. M. During this month, however, I have seen the mercury stand at the lowest mark, at which I ever observed it, in Liberia, that is, at 68. This was early in the morning, during the prevalence of a strong and very cool land-breeze. During this month I have also seen the mercury stand at the highest mark, at which I ever observed it that is, at 90. The air is sometimes uncomfortably cool, before 8 o'clock A. M., during this month. During the month of February, the weather is generally similar to that of January. There are, however, usually more frequent showers of rain; and sometimes, towards the close of this month, slight tornadoes are experienced , The harmattan haze general- ly disappears about the last of this month; and the atmosphere becomes clear. The range of the thermometer is about the same as in January. March is perhaps the most trying month, in the year to the constitutions of new- comers. The atmosphere is usually very oppressive during this month the sun being nearly vertical. The occasional showers of rain, and the slight tornadoes, which oc- cur in this month, do not usually mitigate the oppressiveness of the atmosphere, as 14 SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. April Tornadoes May and June. might be supposed. The variation in the state of the atmosphere, as indicated by the thermometer, seldom exceeds 6 during the whole of this month. The average height of the mercury is about 85O. April is significantly called the " tornado month," the most numerous and most violent tornadoes usually occurring during this month. The ordinary state of the weather, in reference to the degree of heat, and its influence on the system, is not very different from that of the three preceding months. The showers of rain are usually more frequent, however; and the visitations of those peculiar gusts, called tornadoes, are much more common in April, than in any other month. These are sudden, and sometimes violent gusts, which occur much more frequently at night, than during the day. Although they usually approach suddenly and rapidly, yet certain premoni- tory evidences of their approach are almost always presented, which are generally easily recognized by persons who have frequently observed them. They generally commence from northeast, or east-northeast, and rapidly shift around to nearly south- east; by which time the storm is at its height. At the commencement of a tornado, dark clouds appear above the eastern horizon, which rapidly ascend, until a dense lurid- looking mass spreads over the whole hemi- sphere. As the heavy mass of clouds ascends and spreads, the roaring sound of the wind becomes stronger and louder, until suddenly it bursts forth in its fury; sometimes seeming as if it would sweep away every opposing object. Very seldom, however, is any material injury sustained from these violent gusts. The scene is sometimes awfully grand, for fifteen or twenty minutes, during the formation and continuance of a heavy tornado. Some- times the whole hemisphere presents a scene of the deepest gloom ; the darkness of which is momentarily illuminated by vivid flashes of lightning, in rapid succession; and some- times tremendous peals of thunder burst upon the solemn stillness of the scene. The rain seldom falls, until the violence of the gust begins to subside; when a torrent of rain usually pours down for a short time, seldom more than half an hour; after which, the wind shifts around towards the west; and generally, in about an hour from the commencement of the tornado, the sky be- comes serene, and sometimes almost cloud- less. The weather during the month of May is usually more pleasant, than during the two preceding months. The atmosphere is gene- rally not quite so warm and oppressive. Sometimes copious and protracted showers of rain fall, during the latter half of this month; so that the beginning of the rainy season usually occurs in this month. Tor- nadoes also occasionally appear, during the month of May. The average height of the mercury in the thermometer is usually two or three degrees less, than during the four preceding months. June is perhaps the most rainy month in the year. More or less rain usually falls nearly every day or night in this month. Although there are sometimes clear and pleasant days in June; yet, there are seldom twenty-four successive hours of entire free- dom from rain. The sun is, however, seldom entirely obscured for a week at a time; and he frequently shines out brightly and pleasantly, in the interstices between the floating clouds, several times during the day; occasionally for several hours at a time. During this month, as during all the other rainy months, more rain always falls at night than in the day time; and, indeed, there are very few days in the year, in which the use of an umbrella may not be dispensed with, sometime during the ordi- nary business hours. In the month of June, the atmosphere is always consider- SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 15 July August September October November December. Extremes of heat and cold. ably cooler than during the preceding months; and I have generally found it ne- cessary to wear woolen outer as well as under garments; and to sleep beneath thick covering at night, in order to be comfortably warm. The sensible perspiration is always much less, during this month, and the five succeeding months, than during the other six months in the year. The mercury in the thermometer seldom rises above 80 in this month, the average height being about 750. During the months of July and August, a great deal of rain also generally falls; but perhaps less in both these months than in the preceding one. There is always a short season of comparatively dry, and very pleasant weather, in one or both of these months. This season usually continues from three to five weeks; and generally commences about the 20th or 25th of July. Sometimes, for several successive days, the eun shines brilliantly and pleasantly all day; and no rain falls at night. The air, how- ever, is always refreshingly cool and agree- able. This is perhaps the most pleasant time in the year. This is what is commonly called "the middle dries," It seems as if Providence has specially ordered this tempo- rary cessation of the rains, for the purpose of permitting the ripening and gathering of the crops of rice, which are generally harvested in August. September and October are also generally very rainy months; especially the former. Sometimes more rain falls in September, than in any other month in the year. To~ wards the close of October, the rains begin to be less copious; and sometimes slight tornadoes appear, indicative of .the cessation of the rainy season. The sea-breezes are usually very strong, during these two months; and the atmosphere is generally uniformly cool, and invigorating to the physical system. During the month of November, the weather is generally very pleasant, the temperature of the atmosphere being agree- able to the feelings not so cool as during the five preceding months, and not so warm as during the five or six succeeding ones, the average height of the mercury in the thermometer being about 82. Frequent showers of rain usually fall during this, month, both in the day and at night; but generally they are of short duration. Slight tornadoes also generally appear in this, month. The sun may usually be seen, during a part of every day in the month; and frequently he is not obscured by clouds ,. during the whole of the time in which he is above the horizon. The middle of this month may be regarded as the beginning of the dry season. December is also generally a very pleasant month. Occasional slight showers of rain fall during this month, sometimes several sprinklings in one day, but seldom for more than a few minutes at a time. The mornings in this month are peculiarly de- lightful. The sun usually rises with bril- liancy and beauty; and the hills and groves, teeming with the verdure of perpetual spring, are enriched by the mingled melody of a thousand cheerful songsters. Nothing that I have ever witnessed in the United States exceeds the loveliness of a December morn- ing in Liberia. On the whole, I regard the climate of Li- beria as decidedly pleasant; notwithstanding the scorching rays of the tropical sun, and the " abundance of rain" which falls during the year, especially during the months of June, July, September and October. So far as the pleasantness of the climate and weather is concerned, I would decidedly prefer a residence in Liberia, to one in any part of the United States.. The extremes of the thermometrical state of the atmosphere may be set down at 65 and 900. I have never heard of the mercury in a good thermometer having sunk below the former, nor arisen above the latter point, 16 SKETCHES OP LIBERIA. Productions Rice Indian corn and Sweei potatoes. in the shade. The average height of the mercury, during the rainy season, may be set down at about 76, and, during the dry season at 84. The mean temperature for the year is about 80. In regard to the comparative healthiness of the two seasons, I may state, that my observations fully convinced me, that the rainy season is decidedly more conducive to health than the dry season, in both new- comers and old settlers. The oppressive- ness of the atmosphere, and the enervating effects of the weather, during the dry season, tend to debilitate the physical system, and thereby to render it more susceptible of being affected by the local agents of disease. Consequently, those persons who arrive in Liberia during this season, are more liable to frequent attacks of fever, than those are who arrive during the rainy season. In reference, however, to the acclimating pro- cess, I do not think that any great advan- tage can be gained by arriving at any par- ticular time of the year, more than at any other time. Unnecessary exposure to the heat of the sun during the dry season, and to the rain during the wet season, should alike be avoided. Care and prudence should be exercised by new-comers at all .times during the year. SKETCH No. 4. PROPUCTIONS. Nearly all the different kinds of grain, roots, and fruits, which are peculiar to intertropical climates, thrive well in Liberia ; and many garden vegetables which belong more properly to temperate climates, may be raised, in quality not much inferior to the same kind of articles, produced in climates peculiarly adapted to itheir growth and maturation. The only kind of grain, however, which has yet been cultivated to any con- siderable extent, is Rice, which is the great staple of intertropical Africa, and the prin- cipal article of food of th numerous ab- originaj inhabitants. It is .also used exten- sively by the Liberians. And it is un- doubtedly the most wholesome article of food which can be used in that country. It is not cultivated very extensively by the Liberians, in consequence of their being able generally to purchase it more cheaply from the natives, than the cultivation of it would cost. In consequence, however, of the in- creasing demand, it has, of late years, commanded a better price than formerly ; which has induced some of the citizens to engage in raising it. Until within the last few years, scarcely any persons attempted to raise it; but, at present, this valuable grain may be seen growing in the neighborhood of several of the settlements in Liberia. Although it grows much better in low, wet land ; yet it thrives very well in land more elevated ; such as will produce most other articles usually cultivated. It is usually sowed in April, and harvested in August. Sometimes two crops may be made in one year ; but generally only one is made. It yields so abundantly, that, notwithstanding the extreme indolence of the natives, who do not work on their farms during three months in the year, they usually raise much more than they require. Indian corn, or maize, will grow very well on some lands in Liberia ; and al- though it does not thrive so well as in some parts of the United States ; yet I am quite satisfied that it might be cultivated much more extensively in Liberia than it ever yet has been. I have seen some fine, large ears of corn, which were raised on the St. Paul's river. The small-grained corn, usually called Guinea-corn, no doubt will grow well in Liberia (Guinea, whence its name ;) but strange to say, I have seldom seen it growing there. The natives in the vicinity of the settlements seldom, if ever, raise it. A variety of esculent roots may be raised in Liberia ; the most common of which are, the sweet potato, cassada, yam, and tania. Sweet potatoes may be raised in great abundance, with very little labor, on al- SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 17 Cassada Yam Tania Beans and Peas. most every kind of land, at any time during the year, I have seen them grow- ing freely in the sandy soil, within fifty yards of the ocean. The poorest persons may easily have a sufficiency of this nu- tritious vegetable. Those raised in some parts of Liberia are very fine. They gen- erally thrive better during the rainy season, especially on the high lands ; but in some places, they thrive very well during the dry season, especially on the flat land bordering on the rivers ; and, in many places, they may be gathered during every month in the year, from the same piece of land . The Cassada ( as it is usually called, but perhaps more properly cassava ) is a shrub , which grows from four to eight feet in height, having several white, fleshy roots, covered with a coui'se) rough skin. The stem of the shrub is round and jointed, having nu- merous branches, which are furnished at the upper part with alternate leaves, divi- ded into three, five, or seven acute lobes* The root, which is the only part that is used, arrives at perfection in from nine to fifteen months* The roots vary in size, from six to eighteen inches in length, and from three to eight inches in circumference. In taste, when not cooked, it very much resembles the taste of a fresh chesnut. This vegetable may be raised abundantly, on any kind of soil. It is the only vege- table, except rice which is cultivated to any extent by the natives. It is usually prepared for use, by being boiled, after the skin or rind has been removed, or by being roasted in ashes ; and, when properly cooked, it is very palatable and nutritious. The tapioco of the shops is the fecula of the root of the cassada. The Yam is a slender, herbaceous vine, having large tuberous roots, sometimes nearly round, but generally elongated, like the cassada, but much larger. The roots of the yam are sometimes three feet long, and weigh twenty or thirty pounds. They usually arrive at perfection in four or five months; and they yield very abundantly. The root of the yam is more farinaceous or mealy, when cooked, than that of the cassada almost as much so as the Irish potato. They are more digestable than the cassada ; and I think more palatable. The yam is one of the most wholesome and nutritious esculent roots of any coun- try ; and it may be produced in any desired quantity in Liberia. Tania is a delicate, broad -leafed plant, about two feet in height, having a bulbous root, which, when prepared like Irish po- tatoes, resembles those excellent vegetables very nearly in taste ; and it is a very whole- some and nutritious article of food. It may be raised easily and abundantly. There are other esculent roots, peculiar to tropical climates, which have not yet been introduced ; but which, no doubt, would thrive well in Liberia. I have al- luded particularly to those only which have been introduced, and which are cul- tivated there those which I have seen and eaten myself. And, in addition to those articles to which I have alluded, I may name a few other garden vegetables, which I have seen growing in Liberia : the most common of which are, lima or butter beans, snap beans, black-eyed peas, cabbage, tamatoes cucumbers, watermelons, pump- kins, muskmelons, cantelopes, beets, rad- ishes, and carrots. Lima beans may k be raised abundantly, at any time during the year. In conse- quence of the absence of frost, the vines live and bear for several years ; and as the beans are being continually reproduced, they may be gathered from the same vines, during every month in the year, and for three, four, five, or more, successive years. The vines yield in a few months after the planting of the bean ; so that, no family ought ever to be without this excel- lent vegetable. They are equal to those raised in any part of the United States. Black-eyed peas may be raised in any necessary quantities. They come to ma- turity in about six weeks from the time of 18 SKETCHES OF LIBERIA, Cabbages Tomatoes Cucumbers Watermelons, &c. Oranges Limes and Pine-apples. planting ; and they may be raised at any I time during the year. Cabbages do not thrive so Well in Liberia as they generally do in the United States I that is, they do not produce so fine heads. ] They grow very rapidly ; and sometimes j Ihe stalk attains the height of several feet. They do not go to seed. When, however, good seed can be procured from other countries, and proper attention is given to the cultivation of the cabbage, fine, large, lender heads may sometimes be produced. I have occasionally eaten as good cabbage in Liberia, as I ever ate in the Old Domin- ion, tx Tomatoes may be easily raised ; and when the seed are procured from abroad, the fruit is large and well flavored equal to the produce of most other countries. Cucumbers will perhaps thrive as well in Liberia, as in most other countries. I have seen as fine cucumbers there as I ever saw in any part of the United States. A sandy soil seems to be best adapted for them. Watermelons thrive as well in some parts of Liberia, as in most parts of the United States ; especially when good seed can be procured from abroad. Some as fine watermelons as I ever saw were raised in the vicinity of Monrovia. So far as I could learn, the best time to plant the seed is in March or April. All the other articles which I have enu- merated, and several other garden vege- tables, which seem to belong more proper- ly to temperate climates, may be raised in Liberia without much difficulty, if the seed tan be obtained from those countries, to which these vegetables seem to be pecu- liarly adapted. Several of these vegetables do not go to seed at all in Liberia ; conse- quently, they cannot be reproduced. And I believe all the rest which belong more properly to temperate climates, soon de- generate so much in quality, as to become unfit for use. Hence, the necessity of im- porting seeds, if persons wish to have American vegetables on African tables. And here I would particularly recommend to persons, who^ intend to emigrate to Li- beria, to take with them a variety of gar- den seeds. And, in order to protect them from being injured by the salt air of the ocean, I would advise that they should be sealed up in vials or bottles ; or wrapped in paper, and packed away in saw dust. A great variety of fruits is raised in Liberia; many of which are indigenous. The principal fruits are> the orange, lime, lemon, pine-apple, guava, mango, plan- tain, banana, okra, papaw, cocoanut, tamarind, pomegranate, granadilla, Afri- can cherry, African peach, soursop, sweet- sop, sorrel, cocoa, rose-apple, and chiota. The Orange tree thrives as well perhaps, and bears as fine fruit in Liberia as in any other part of the world. The tree, when full-grown, is about the size of ordinary apple trees in the United States ; but much more handsome, One tree usually bears as many oranges, as an apple tree of the same size bears apples. Although ripe oranges may be procured at any time of the year ; yet, there are two seasons, at which they are more plentiful > than at other times. One season is about the mid- dle of the year, and the other about the close of the year. It is not uncommon to see blossoms, buds r young fruit, and full- grown fruit, on the same tree, at the same time ; so that while some of thfe oranges are ripening, others are being produced. In the town of Monrovia, many orange trees may be seen adorning the sides of the streets i as well as in the yards and gardens of the citizens. Limes and lemons are in superabundance, in nearly every settlement in Liberia. Pine-apples grow wild in the woods, in great abundance ; and when allowed to ri- pen, before being pulled, they are very finely flavored. * The apple grows out of the centre of a small stalk, one or two feet high , and it is surrounded Jjy prickly, pointed leaves or branches. I SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 19 Guavas Mango Plantain and Banana. have seen thousands of them, in half an hour's walk. They are considerably im- p roved by cultivation in good, rich land. They are not, however, a wholesome fruit, although very palatable ; and many per- sons have made themselves sick by eating them too freely. Guavas grow very abundantly, on trees about the size of ordinary peach trees. This fruit resembles the apricot in appear- ance, but not in taste. It is not very pal- atable, when uncooked ; though some persons are very fond of it. It, however, makes the best preserves, and the best pies, of any fruit with which I am acquain- ted. The guava jelly, which is almost universally regarded as a very delicious article, is made from this fruit. Though 1 believe the guava tree is not indigenous to Liberia ; yet it grows so luxuriantly, as to become a source of much inconvenience, in some places. The Mango (or mango-plum, as it is usually called in Liberia) also thrives well. It is the product of a handsome tree, about the size of an ordinary apple-tree. The fruit is about the size of an ordinary apple, but oval, or egg-shaped. In taste, it ap- proaches more nearly to the American peach, than any other tropical fruit I ever ate ; and I regard it as the best fruit which is raised in Liberia. The mango makes very superior preserves. The Plantain is a beautiful, broad-leafed, tender, fibrous stalk, which grows to the height of from eight to fourteen feet. The leaves , which are the continuation of the fibrous layers of the soft, herbaceous stalk, are generally about six feet long, and from one to three feet broad. The fruit-stem proceeds from the heart of the stalk ; and, when full-grown, it is about three feet long, and beautifully curved, ex- tending about two feet beyond the cluster of fruit, and terminating in a singular and beautiful purple bulb, formed of numerous tender layers, which can be easily separ- ated. One stalk produces only one cluster or bunch of fruit; and, when this is re- moved, by cutting the stem, the stalk dies ; but cions spring up from the original root, around the old stalk ; and in a few months, these also bear fruit ; and then die, giving place to other new stalks. So that, in two or three years frorn the time of the first planting, the number of stalks and bunches of fruit will be increased six-fold, or more. The venerable parent-stalk, as if loth to leave her rising progeny unsheltered from the sweeping tornado, generally continues to spread her broad leaves over them, un- til they shall have attained a sufficient size to stand firmly before the destroying blast of the stornvking ; and then one by one, the expansive leaves or branches wither, and fall to the ground, leaving the aged, worn-out stalk to be prostrated by the passing breeze. The fruit of the plantain is cylindrical and slightly curved, somewhat tapering towards the end. It is usually from six to nine inches long, and about one inch in diameter. At first, it is of a pale green color ; but, when ful- ly ripe, it is yellow. It arrives at maturi- ty in about eight months. Most persons in Liberia cut the bunches before the fruit has ripened ; but, it is much better, when it is allowed to ripen before being separated from the stalk. It is usually prepared for the table, by being boiled, baked, or fried ; and it is perhaps the most luscious and wholesome vegetable of tropical climates, and one of the most valuable fruits in the vegetable kingdom. It may be produced at any time in the year ; and, with a little judicious management, every family may have this excellent and nutritious article, every day in the year. The Banana is so much like th e plantain , in every respect, except in the taste, and a slight difference in the appearance of the fruit, that the description of one will answer for both. Indeed, it is difficult to distin- guish one from the other, when they are growing. The fruit of the banana is only about half the length of the plantain ; and SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Okra Papaw Cocoanut Tamarind Pomcgranite and African Cherry. is not so much curved. It is also much softer, when ripe, ami is more frequently eaten uncooked ; although it may be pre- pared in the same manner as the plantain. The taste of the plantain very much -resem- bles the taste of apples cooked in the same way ; while that of the banana is sut gen- tris unlike any fruit of the United States. The plantain and banana trees are among the most beautiful vegetable growths of tropical climates. Okra is the fruit of a small tree, ten or twelve feet high. It is a soft, pulpy, and very mucilagenous fruit ; which, when boiled, forms a thick, semi-fluid, pleasant, and nutritious article of food an excellent adjuvant to rice. It may be raised easily and abundantly in Liberia. The Papaw is a tall, slender, herbaceous tree, of very rapid growth, sometimes at- taining the height of thirty feet. The body of the tree is usually naked to with- in two or three feet of the top, and is marked with the cicatrices of the fallen leaves, which wither and fall as the tree continues to grow, giving place to others above them. Sometimes, however, there are several branches attached to the upper part of the body of the tree ; each of which branches produces a cluster of fruit. The leaves are very large, have long footstalks, and are divided into numerous lobes. The fruit is nearly round, of a pale-green color, becoming yellowish as it ripens, and is about the size of the head of a very young infant. One variety of the papaW, however, bears fruit of an elongated shape somewhat like a pear ; but considerably larger than the other variety. The fruit of the papaw has a sweetish taste. It is very soft ; and, when fully ripe, and stewed, it resembles in both appearance and taste the best pumpkins of the United States ; when it is stewed, before it has ripened, and is made into pie, it so much resembles the green -apple pie, in taste as well as ap- pearance, that the most fastidious epicure might be deceived by it ; if he did not stop to think that apples do not grow in Liberia. The Cocoanut is perhaps the most beautiful tree of tropical climates. It has long, curved leaves or branches ; which hang gracefully from the upper part of the body, which rises sometimes to the height of thirty feet, or more. The fruit grows in clusters near the base of the stalks of the leaves. The cocoanut tree is seldom raised in Liberia, except as an ornament. A few of these stately arid beautiful trees may be seen in some of the settlements. From having seen it growing in an obscure place , I presume the cocoanut tree is indigenous in Liberia. The Tamarind is a large, spreading tree, having very small, deep-green leaves. The fruit grows in elongated pods } similar to the butter-bean. Although the tamarind is indigenous, and thrives as well perhaps in Liberia, as in any other part of the world ; yet the people do not give any attention to the gathering of the fruit, except for their own use ; and, indeed, very few seem to care any thing about it. I think, however, it may be made a profitable article of ex- portation. The Pomegranite is a dense, spiny shrub, ten or twelve feet high. It produces beautiful brilliant large red flowers ; and the fruit is about the size of a large apple, and covered with a thick coriaceous rind. It is filled with a multitude of small seeds ; and the pulp is slightly acid and astringent. This fruit is seldom cultivated in Liberia ; although I presume it will thrive as well as in most other parts of the world. The African cherry (so called in Liberia) is a very peculiar fruit. It is about the size of the ordinary morrello-cherry of the United States ; but, in taste, it more re- sembles the cranberry. The tree is usually about fifteen feet high. The great pecu- liarity in the growth of this fruit, consists in the manner in which the short stems are attached to the tree not to the twigs of the branches, but to the body and larger SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 21 African Peach Sour-sop Sweet-sop, &c. Productions continued Coffee. limbs of the tree ; the stems of the fruit being about one-third of an inch long. This fruit makes very fine tarts equal to the cranberry. The African peach, of which there are three varieties, is a large, round, acid fruit one variety being about twice the size of the largest peaches in the United States. These trees, some of which are very large, grow abundantly in the forests of Liberia. The fruit is used only for making pre- serves ; which, when properly made, are surpassed only by the guava. The Sour-sop is a large, pulpy, acidu- lous fruit, which grows on a tree about the size of fin ordinary apple-tree. The fruit is nearly pear-shaped, and is about as large as an ordinary cantelope. It is covered with a thick, knotty rind. When perfectly ripe, it is a very pleasant fruit ; especially when a little sugar is sprinkled over the pulp. It is also very good, when fried in slices ; in which state it somewhat resembles in taste fried sour apples. The Sweet-sop is a fruit somewhat simi- lar to the sour-sop; but not so acidulous, nor so pleasant to the taste. It is seldom used. The Cocoa, from which chocolate is produced, though not yet extensively cul- tivated, thrives well in Liberia. The Rose-apple is a small round fruit, which takes its name from the delightful fragrance which it has. It is not very pal- atable, however ; and it is seldom eaten. The Granadilla is a large fruit which grows on a vine. It is about as large as a moderate sized cantelope. No part of the fruit is eaten, except the seeds and the mucilagenous substance by which they are surrounded. These are loosely confined in the centre of the fruit. The taste of this mucilage resembles the American straw- berry more than any other fruit with which I am acquainted. The Sorrel is a large shrub, having deep- red blossoms ; which are often used for making tarts. It grows freely in Liberia, 2 and it is a very handsome ornament to a yard or garden. The Chiota is the fruit of a vine; It is about as large as an ordinary pear. When properly prepared, by stewing, it aflfords a wholesome, palatable, and nutritious article of food ; and it may be easily raised in Liberia. The celebrated bread fruit, of the island of Tahiti, which was introduced into the British West-India Islands, by order of the government, will grow well in Liberia. But, as there are so many other articles of a somewhat similar kind, which are prefer- able to it, it is seldom used. I have seen several other indigenous fruits in Liberia ; some of which are very palata- ble; some very fragrant, but not very accep- table to the palate ; and others not possess- ing any good qualities to recommend them And there are many other kinds of fruits, peculiar to tropical climates, which, no doubt, would thrive well in Liberia ; but which have not yet been introduced. I have alluded to those only which I have seen growing there, and of which I have eaten. SKETCH No. 5 PRODUCTIONS Continued. In addition to the vegetable productions of Liberia, to which I have alluded, there are some others which are worthy of particular notice ; especially as they are the prin- cipal exportable articles, some of which, may be rendered very profitable articles of commerce. These are, Coffee, Ginger, Pep- per, Sugar, Ground-nuts, Indigo, Cotton, and Arrow-root. In reference to Coffee, I am quite satisfied that the soil and climate of Liberia are as well adapted to the cultivation of this arti- cle, as the soil and climate of any other part of the world. I believe that as good coffee can be raised in Liberia as in Mocha or Java ; and I have no doubt that, by proper attention, it may be raised as plentifully as in any other part of the world. These SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Estimates of the quantity and value of coffee. opinions are not hastily formed, but are founded on personal observations in some of the West India Islands, as well as in Li- beria, and on frequent conversations with persons who have visited various other parts of the world in which coffee is cultivated. I have frequently seen isolated trees grow- ing in different parts of Liberia, which have yielded from ten to twenty pounds of clean dry coffee at one picking; and, however incredible it may appear, it is a fact, that one tree in Monrovia yielded four and a --phalf bushels of coffee, in the hull, at one time; which, on being shelled and dried, weighed thirty-one pounds. This is the largest quantity of which I ever heard, as having been gathered from one tree ; and it is the largest coffee tree I ever saw, being upwards of twenty feet high, and of propor- tionate dimensions. I have given particular attention to obser- vations and investigations, respecting the cultivation of coffee in Liberia; and, I think I may safely set down the average quantity which may be raised, by proper cultivation, at four pounds to each tree that is, each tree of six years old and up- wards. The coffee tree will begin to bear in three years from the time at which the seeds are planted. At the end of the fourth year, the average quantity may be set down at one pound to each tree ; at the end of the fifth year, two and a half pounds ; and, at the end of the sixth year, four pounds. About three hundred trees can be planted in one acre of ground, allowing the trees to be twelve feet apart. Therefore, in four years from the time the seeds are planted in the nursery, 300 pounds of coffee may be gathered, which, at ten cents a pound, (a very moderate rate for Liberia coffee, which has frequently been sold for twenty cents a pound in this country,) would be worth $30. At the end of the fifth year, 750 pounds may be gathered worth $75 ; and at the end of the sixth year, 1,200 pounds worth $120. So that, in six years from the time of the planting of the seeds, agreeably to this calculation, 2,250 pounds of coffee may be produced on one acre of ground worth $225. And, accordingly, ten acres, properly cultivated, will yield during the first six years, an income of $2,250 ; and at least $1,200 during each succeeding year. This calculation I regard as pretty nearly correct ; but even admitting that I have set down the quantities and the value at one fourth more than they should be, it will still appear, that the cultivation of coffee may be rendered a source of wealth in Li- beria, even supposing that nothing else could be raised for exportation, which is by no means the case. I am quite satisfied that at least $100 a year may be realized, by proper management, from the produce of one acre of ground cultivated in coffee, after the sixth year from the time of plant- ing of the grains in the nursery. And, as it does not require much labor, one person may easily cultivate three acres, with a little hired assistance in clearing the land, and may devote one half of his time, or more, to the cultivation of other articles, for the use of himself and family, and for sale ; and he need not work more than five or six hours a day. So that, by industry, prudence, and economy, any man may realize at least $300 a year for his labor, over and above the necessary expenditures of himself and family ; the other articles which he may raise being quite sufficient for the comfortable support of his house- hold. I am aware that the truthfulness of this statement has seldom been exhibited in the agricultural operations of the citizens of Liberia ; but this fact does not necessarily confute the truth of the statement, nor does SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Method of raising coffee Ginger Pepper. it sufficiently exhibit the impracticability of its being fully and easily carried out. And I might add, that it does not require the exercise of profound wisdom, even in a cur- sory observer, to discover the real cause why the feasibility of the result of the fore- going calculation is not more frequently ex- hibited. Coffee is indigenous in Liberia. It may frequently be seen wild in the woods. It is, however, much improved by cultivation. The most approved method of raising it, is to plant the grains in a nursery, and to transplant when the tree has attained the height of a foot and a half. Some trees arrive at their full growth in five or six years ; while others continue to grow more than double that length of time. The grains grow in pairs, covered with a hull, from which they can be easily separated when dry. The coffee blossom is a beautiful and highly flagrant little white flower, and the berry, when fully ripe, is of a pale red color. The average height of full grown trees is about eight feet. They continue to bear from ten to twenty years. I have seen some fine flourishing trees, which were up- wards of twenty years old. As the coffee tree is easily cultivated, and as the fruit is easily cured, the cultivation of this profita- ble and useful article should occupy a por- tion of the time of every family in Liberia. Next to coffee, perhaps Ginger may be made the most profitable article of culture, for exportation. The superior quality of this article, and the peculiar adaptation of almost every kind of soil in Liberia, to its abundant growth, justifies the opinion that it may be rendered a very profitable article of commerce. It will certainly grow as well in Liberia as in any other part of the world ; and. in quality, it is scarcely infe- rior to the best that is produced in any other country. I have no certain data from which I can determine the average quantity of ginger which may be raised on a given quantity of land ; but, from what I have seen, I am quite satisfied that it may be raised in great abundance, with very little labor. The average increase is at least twenty-fold, when properly cultivated. From six to eight months is the time usu- ally required for its growth and maturation. Bird pepper, which is known in the United States as "African Cayenne Pep- per," is an indigenous article, which may be found almost every where throughout Liberia. I have frequently seen great quan- tities of it growing wild in the woods. And if a little attention were given to the cultiva- tion of it, thousands of pounds might be annually exported. It grows on bushes about four feet high. The pods are gene- rally about half an inch long, and one third of an inch in circumference. One species, however, is four or five times this size. The smaller kind is generally prefered. In quality, it is perhaps not equalled by that raised in any other country. The cultiva- tion of it requires scarcely any attention ; and the only preparation of it for the market, consists in picking the pods and spreading them out to dry. The shrub grows very rapidly, and the fruit arrives at maturity in six or eight months from the time of plant- ing. It yields more abundantly about the beginning of the year, but as the fruit con- tinues to be reproduced throughout the year, it may be collected at any time. The natives use it very freely. It is not un- common to see them with a bunch of pep- per in one hand and a roasted cassada in the other, taking, with each bite of the latter, one of the pods of the former, one of which pods would serve to pepper a full meal for a person not so accustomed to its use. Perhaps the reader of this may won- der why pepper is not more freely gather- ed and exported, as it grows so abundantly in the wild state, and as it may be so very SKETCHES OP LIBERIA. Sugar-cane Ground-nuts Indigo Cotton. easily cultivated. To this I can only re- spond, echo answers, why? Sugar-cam will, perhaps, thrive as well in Liberia, as in any other country. I have seen stalks more than fifteen feet high, and two or three inches in diameter. The ave- rage size of the stalks is considerably larger than those which are raised in the island of Barbadoes, and the juice is equally sweet, and proportionably more abundant. This I have tested, by personal observations. Sugar, however, probably will not soon be- come a profitable article of exportation, in consequence of the inability of the Liberians to compete with the West India planters. Liberia, however, may be, and it ought to be, independent of all the rest of the world, for this luxury. Every farmer ought to raise, not only enough of this article for the use of his own family, but some to dispose of to his mercantile, mechanical, and pro- fessional neighbors. And, even if he can- not conveniently manufacture the sugar, in any considerable quantity, he can certainly express enough of the juice in a few hours, with his own hands, in a mill of his own construction, to make several gallons of syrup, (not molasses but a much better ar- ticle,) which answers very well for every practical or necessary purpose. Ground-nuts, or pea-nuts, may be raised in great abundance, in Liberia. And, as these nuts generally find a ready market'in the United States, and in Europe ; they certainly will richly repay the Liberian far- mer for the little trouble and labor which their cultivation requires. I do not know what quantity may be raised on a given portion of land, but I do know that they yield very abundantly. Although the cultivation of Indigo has not met with much attention in Liberia comparatively few persons having given any attention at all to it yet, as the indigo olant grows so luxuriantly, and may be aised so easily, the manufacture of indigo s certainly worthy of particular notice. The plant grows so abundantly in Liberia, that it constitutes one of the most trouble- some weeds in the gardens, and even in the streets of the settlements. And, with a little skill and industry, in preparing the indigo, it may be rendered one of the most profitable crops that can be produced in tropical climates. The plant arrives at ma- turity in three or four months from the time of planting the seed, and as it springs up again, in a few weeks after having been cut, one crop will yield five or six cuttings in the course of the year. Several varieties of the indigo plant may be found growing wild in Liberia, all of which yield very fine indigo, some of which is perhaps equal to that produced in any other part of the world. The preparation of indigo requires a little more patience and industry, than the Li- berians generally are in the habit of bestow- ing on any one article of agriculture; which is the principal cause why it has not been more extensively manufactured. Cotton has not yet been cultivated to a sufficient extent, to enable me to determine from observation, whether it may be made a very profitable article of agriculture. Sever ral old cotton planters, who had grown grey in raising cotton in Georgia, Missis- sippi, and other Southern States, before they went to Liberia, have repeatedly told me, that the cotton-tree or shrub will grow as well, and yield as abundantly in Liberia, as in any part of the United States. As I have never seen the cotton-tree growing in the United States, I cannot institute a com- parison, from my own observations. But I have seen some fine trees growing in Li- beria, and yielding cotton equal in quality to the best I ever saw from the valley of the Mississippi, The natives in the interior SKETCHES OF L I B E H 1 A . Arrow-root method of preparing it quantity that may be raised. manufacture cotton goods pretty extensive ly from one species of the indigenou growth. There are several species or vari eties of cotton in Liberia. The best grow on trees or shrubs ten or twelve feet high similar to those raised in the United States but perhaps larger in the average size And, as the trees are not injured by frosts of course they continue to bear for severa years. One species grows on trees of im mense dimensions some of them being more than twenty feet in circumference The cotton, however, which is producec by those large trees, is very different from that raised on the small trees. It has a yellowish cast ; and it is more like raw silk in appearance and texture ; but, as it has very little staple, it is seldom gathered for any purpose. Jlrrow-root probably thrives as well in Liberia, as in any other part of the world. This is a tender plant, which usually grows to the height of two or three feet. The stems, of which several rise from the same root, are round, branched, jointed, and leafy. The leaves resemble the common sword-grass. They are alternate ; and are from three to six inches in length. The root, which is the only part used, is beautifully cylindrical, straight, and tapering, (hence the name of the plant,) fleshy, scaly, and furnished with numerous long, white fibres ; and is usually from three to eight inches in length. This plant is one of the most luxurious growths in Liberia. It is easily propagated, and it arrives at maturity in about five months. In preparing it for use, the roots are washed, and then beat into a pulp, which is thrown into a tub of water, and agitated, so as to separate the fibres from the amylaceous part; the latter of which remains suspended in the water, while the former is removed. The milky fluid, thus formed, is strained, and allowed to stand several hours, until the fecula, or starch, shall have settled at the bottom of the vessel. It is then washed with a fresh portion of water, strained again, and allow- ed to subside again ; this process sometimes being performed three or four times ; after which, it is spread out, and dried in the sun. About eight pounds of the pure powder or flour may be procured from a bushel of the roots. As arrow-root may be produced so abundantly in Liberia ; and as it is one of the most important exportable articles ; as well as one of the most valuable articles of food ; it deserves particular notice. The cultivation of the plant requires so little la- bor or attention, and the process of manu- facturing the fecula from the roots is so very simple and so easily performed that I am quite certain this article may be ren- dered a source of wealth by exportation. From having frequently seen it growing, and having seen the quantity which a very small piece of ground produced, I think the average quantity which may be raised, on almost every kind of soil in Liberia, may be safely and truly set down at one- hundred bushels to the acre ; that is, eight hundred pounds of pure manufactured arrow-root, or fecula. An old gentleman at Monrovia, who has raised a considera- ble quantity of it, stated to me, that, from he quantity which he has made from a certain portion of land , he was quite satis- fied that one acre, properly cultivated, will ield two thousand pounds. And a farmer at Caldwell assured me that he made one undred and thirty pounds from the pro- duce of one-sixteenth of an acre of ground. But, as it will be perceived, I have placed he average quantity at less than one-half )f the proportionate quantity which has actually been raised ; and this, I think, is- wt beyond a fair estimate. Assuming 26 SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Arrow-root a substitute for flour Productions continued. therefore, that one-half an acre will pro- duce four hundred pounds, (a quantity which almost any family may easily raise and manufacture,) and allowing the aver- age net price to be only fifteen cents a pound ; it will appear that $60 may be re- alized from this small quantity of land ; with comparatively little labor. During the last year or two arrow-root has been used pretty extensively in Liberia, as a substitute for wheat-flour ; and, as I have frequently eaten it, in various forms of bread, I hesitate not to say, that I be- lieve it to be not only a good substitute for flour, but much more suitable and whole- some for persons residing in tropical cli- mates. It makes very fine biscuits, either alone or when mixed with a small quantity of sweet potatoes. It also makes very good pie-crust ; and I have seen light or leavened bread , made of arrow-root, which so much resembled wheat-flour bread, in both appearance and taste, as to deceive professed judges. Besides these, I have eaten the nicest kind of pound and other sweet cakes, made of this article, instead of flour, with the ordinary adjuvants. And I beg leave to say, that I regard myself as a tolerably good judge of good eating. The foregoing named articles constitute the principal exportable articles of agricul- ture, which may be raised in Liberia. And I have endeavored to give faithful and truthful statements, in reference to each of them. And, while I regret that greater at- tention has not yet been given to the culti- vation of these articles ; I cherish the hope that the period will arrive, at which all of them will be cultivated extensively; if not by the present inhabitants, by others who may emigrate thither, having more energy, industry, and perseverance. I candidly believe, that a man may acquire more wealth in Liberia, by judicious manage- ment in the cultivation of the soil, than he could acquire in any part of the United States, with double the quantity of land, double the amount of labor, and in double the length of time ; even allowing for all the disadvantages under which he may have to labor in Liberia, and all the facili- ties which he might have in the United States. I am quite certain that by pursu- ing a regular, systematic and persevering course of agricultural industry and frugali- ty, the citizens of Liberia may, with no other means than those which every indi- vidual can readily procure, produce not only enough of those articles which are peculiar to tropical climates, for their own use, but a large surplus, for exportation. And, any man in Liberia, who enjoys a tolerable degree of health, and who does not live comfortably and independently, may, without any violation of the princi- ples of truth or justice, charge the defi- ciency to his own account. SKETCHY-NO. 6. PRODUCTIONS Continued. One of the most important and valuable indigenous articles of the vegetable kingdom in inter- tropical Africa, is the Palm ; which is one of the most remarkable and useful trees in the world. There are two or three species of the palm in Liberia ; one of which, by its towering height and graceful appearance, attracts particular attention. The tree which yields the nuts from which oil is extracted, seldom grows to the height of more than twenty -five feet. It resembles the cocoanut tree,having,likethat,long leaves or branches, which are attached to the upper part of the body of the tree, and which hang in graceful curves. The fruit grows in clus- ters or branches, near the base of the stalks of the leaves. The nut is oval, about an inch long ; and, when ripe is of a deep red color. The oil is extracted from the pulp SKETCHES OF LIBERIA Palm Camwood Palma-cristi, &c. Animals Elephants Leopards. of the nut, which yields very abundantly. It is manufactured by the natives ; and sev- eral hundred thousand gallons are annually exported from Liberia. Palm trees may be seen in every part of Liberia, adorning the hills and valleys ; and furnishing not only great quantities of oil for exportation, as well as for domestic uses, but yielding a variety of other useful substances ; a pe- culiar beverage called "palm wine," which is procured by tapping the tree, and which in taste very much resembles wine-whey ; also a substance which grows at the* top of the tree, called " palm-cabbage" ; and which, when boiled, has an agreeable taste ; and from the fibres of the leaves, the natives get materials for making baskets, hats, &c. Palm oil is extensively used by the Liberians as a substitute for sperm oil and candles ; and also in culinary opera- tions, as a substitute for lard and butter. And, for all needful purposes, to which those articles are applied, it answers very well. The average price of palm oil in Liberia is about thirty-three cents a gallon. Another valuable tree, which is indi- genous and peculiar to intertropical Africa, is the Cam wood ; which grows abundantly in the forests, about a hundred miles from the coast. This is one of the most valuable dye-woods in the world ; and hundreds of tons are annually exported from Liberia. The Palma-cristi, the seeds of which yield castor oil, is also indigenous in Liberia ; and I have no doubt that the regular culti- vation of this valuable shrub would richly repay the laborer for the little trouble which it would require. The tree which yields the medicinal bal- sam, called Copaiva, may also be seen oc- casionally growing wild in the forests of Liberia ; and I doubt not that the juice might be collected in sufficient quantities, to become a valuable article of exportation. Several species of the Jlcacia (Gum Ara- bic tree) grow in Liberia ; and some of the gum is of superior quality. I have seen some specimens of Olibanum, (Frankincense,) which, as the natives in- formed me, were collected from large trees which grow abundantly in the forest. I have frequently seen the Caoutchouc or Gum-elastic tree growing in Liberia ; some of which are forty-feet, or more, in height. The forests of Liberia also furnish many different kinds of valuable timber, well suited for ship or boat building, cabinet work, and all the various operations in car- pentry ; the principal of which are Wist- more, Brimstone, Rose-wood, Mulberry, Bastard Mahogany, Saffron, Mangrove, African Oak, Hickory , Poplar, Persimmon and Sassa-wood. Some of these make very beautiful cabinet work. A considerable variety of medicinal plants, besides those to which I have al- luded, may be found in Liberia ; among which is the Croton Tiglium, a small tree or shrub, with spreading branches, yielding a capsular fruit, from the seeds of which the Croton oil is extracted. ANIMALS. The principal wild animals which infest the forests or rivers of Libe- ria, are the Elephant, Leopard, Hippopota- mus, Crocodile, Porcupine, Wild Hog, Boa Constictor, several species of the Deer, and several species of the Ape. Elephants are quite numerous about a hundred miles back in the interior ; and the natives make a regular business of hunting and killing them, for the ivory of which their tusks are composed. These animals were formerly frequently seen in the vicinity of some of the settlements ; but they are now seldom seen within fifty miles of the sea- coast. Leopards are occasionally seen prowling SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Hippopotami Crocodiles Deer Monkeys, &c Ants Drivers. about the outskirts of some of the settle- ments ; and they sometimes carry away small domesticated animals at night. But they are much less numerous and trouble- some, than formerly. They never attack a person, except after having been wounded. Hippopotami are occasionally seen on the banks of the river, some of them of im- mense size weighing a thousand pounds or more. They are sometimes killed by the natives. They are harmless animals ; and they always endeavor to escape, when in- terrupted, by plunging into the water. Crocodiles (erroneously called Alligators) are frequently seen basking in (he sunshine on the banks of the rivers, or on the little rocky islands. They always make their escape into the water, when approached by a person on shore, or in a boat or canoe. Boa Constrictors are sometimes killed in the forests in Liberia. The largest I ever saw was fifteen feet long, and fifteen inches in circumference. Much larger ones have been killed. I never heard of their attack- ing an individual. Serpents, however, are much less numerous in Liberia than is generally supposed ; and poisonous snakes are perhaps less common than in many parts of the United States. Deer are very numerous ; and they af- ford excellent venison. Monkeys are found in great numbers in the forests. I have seen a dozen, or more, at one time, jumping from tree to tree, with great dexterity. Several species of the ape tribe are occasionally caught by the natives ; among which is the Chimpanzee, so remark- able for its near approximation in appear- ance to the human race. Some of these " wild men of the woods" have been seen as large as an ordinary sized man. The 1 argest that I ever saw was about the size of a child two or three years old. The old ones are never caught, and are seldom kil- led. They are very powerful, as well as very active. Besides these, the Guana, the Ichneumon, the Sloth, the beautiful and ever-changing Chamelion, many varities of Lizards, and several species of Jints may frequently be seen. One variety or species of ants is very re- markable, in consequence of the immense conical mounds of earth which they rear, and in which they make their nests. These mounds are sometimes ten or twelve feet high, and eight or ten feet in diameter at the base. These ants are about the size of the large black ant in the United States. The queen, however, is much larger some of them two inches in length and nearly two inches in circumference. In the in- terior of the mounds, about half-way from the bottom, is a large vaulted chamber, the floor of which is very hard and smooth. In the centre of the floor is the nest, in the in- most recess of which, lives the queen in luxurious ease, accompanied by the king, whose size does not vary much from the ordinary ant, but who is easily recognized by a striking difference in physical confor- mation. Whenever the queen dies, or is captured, all the ants desert the hill ; which is left to "crumble into dust again. '* Many of these deserted mounds may be seen in almost every part of Liberia. Another species of ants (familiarly known by the name of Drivers} is still more re- markable. They are about the size of the black ant of America that is, about one fourth to one half of an inch in length. They may frequently be seen marching along, in the most systematic order, and regularity of movement. They move in a solid compact column of great length ; and they appear to be under the direction of able leaders and rigid disciplinarians. No common obstacle turns them out of their SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 29 Domesticated animals Beeves Cows Sheep Goats, &c. course ; and whosoever is so unfortunate as to come in their line of march, will have to pay for his temerity ; and will be re- minded to be more careful in future. Hun- dreds seize fiercely on the intruding foot; and the unwary object of their vengeance is compelled to retreat from the scene of at- tack. These tiny warriors are very trouble- some ; but they are exceedingly useful in expelling noxious vermin from every place into which they may enter in the course of their perambulations. Whenever a battalion of drivers enters a dwelling house, the inmates are obliged, for the time, to yield undisputed possession, at least of that part of the house which the little warriors may be searching. They are not, however, always unwelcome visitors ; for they never fail to expel rats, mice, and every species of vermin ; making a clean sweep as they go. Whenever they come to a small water-course, the larger and stronger ones dexterously form themselves into an arch, by clinging to each other ; thus making a bridge, over which the smaller ones pass dry shod. Even in their ordinary march over level ground, they seem to cling to each other in a solid phalnax ; the stronger ones occupying the flanks, and arching themselves over the weaker ones, who oc- cupy the centre, and who are thus protected by the others. All kinds of animals, both large and small, are afraid of drivers ; nor have they any regard to size, in the objects of their warfare. They are very useful in chasing away or killing snakes, lizards, scorpions, centipedes, &c., which, were it not for the drivers, would be exceedingly troublesome, and even dangerous. Whenever they visit a house, they search it all over, and expel every living, moving thing, that they find ; after which, they retire peaceably, and yield possession to the former occupants. They make their nests beneath the surface of the ground ; and I presume they sally ibrth from their quarters only in search of bod ; at which times, the line of march is sometimes a hundred yards, or more, in ength. The principal domesticated animals in Li- beria, are Bullocks or Beeves, Cows, Sheep, Goats, Swine, Geese, Turkeys, Ducks, and Chickens. Beeves are frequently brought into the settlements for sale by the natives, and they are sometimes raised by the citizens. They may be raised easily in any desirable quantity. Cows are numerous, but they do not give much milk. Some of the cows which are brought from the interior, one or two hundred miles from the coast, are as large as qrdinary cows in the United States ; but they do not give half so much milk. If properly attended to, however, I think they would afford milk much more plenti- fully. Sheep and goats can be very easily raised in Liberia as easily, perhaps, as in any other part of the world ; and they both af- ford good wholesome animal food. The sheep are covered with hair instead of wool.. The goats furnish very good milk. Swine do not thrive so well in Liberia as in some parts of the United States ; but they can be raised in sufficient abundance for the wants of the people. Geese and Ducks may be raised without any more difficulty than in the United States ; and within a few years past Turkeys have become much more plentiful than they formerly were. Perhaps in no other part of the world! can Chickens be raised more easily and more plentifully, than in Liberia. With very little trouble, every family may always have a sufficient supply of chickens. 30 SKETCHES OP LIBERIA. Horses Diseases Acclimating fever. Horses are plentiful in the interior, within three hundred miles of the coast, but they do not thrive well in the settlements ; per- haps inconsequence principally of the want of proper management. They are oc- casionally brought down by the natives, and some of them are very beautiful. They are small seldom more than twelve hands high. I am quite satisfied that they never can be used to much advantage, as draft animals, in the present settlements of Libe- ria. But for all necessary purposes, the native oxen can be used as a substitute for horses. I have seen some of the small bullocks broken to the yoke, and working steadily and effectually. The Liberians, however, have not yet given much attention to the breaking and working of oxen by no means as much as they ought to to give. I trust that the time may not be distant, when the plough and the cart will be much more extensively used, than at present. SKETCH No. 7. DISEASES, The physical system of every individual who removes from a tempe- rate to a tropical climate must undergo some change must experience some pro- cess of acclimation : which may, or may not be attended with much fever, according to circumstances to the constitutional pe- culiarites of the individual, the nature of the surrounding country, the previous ha- bits of life, the situation at the time with respect to regimen, comforts, &c.; and by no means the least, the state of the mind with respect to calmness and patience, or irritability and disquietude ; together with other imaginable circumstances. So that the developments of fever are exceedingly various, requiring various methods of treat- ment each method to be adapted to the individual case, as circumstances may re- quire. Hence, the impossibility of furnish- ing an exact or complete treatise on the subject of setting down any characteristic marks of the Acclimating Fever, or of adopting any particular mode of treat- ment. Instead of pursuing a systematic course of treatment in all the cases which came under my observation, I was obliged to lay aside all plans, and to modify my treatment in such a manner as necessarily to discoun- tenance, to a considerable extent, all the la- bored theories of medical writers, relative to the diseases of tropical climates. The leading object which I always had in view in the treatment of this and all other dis- eases, and which I regard as of the great- est importance, was, to preserve the natu- ral strength of the patient, as much as pos- sible to avoid the too free use of any means by which the system might be great- ly or unnecessarily debilitated. Conse- quently, I seldom used very active purga- tives, and scarcely ever resorted to the lan- cet ; and consequently, I used very little wine, brandy, or any other kind of stimu- lant, to bring the patient up after he had been brought down by debilitating treat- ment. And, not unfrequently, my patients were able to walk about within a few days, after having experienced what at first was regarded as an unusually violent attack. The rapid convalescence of some of them was indeed astonishing to myself. Some persons, in passing through the physical change, or process of acclimation, have so little fever that they do not require medical treatment at all. And I have no doubt that many persons might pass safe- ly through the acclimating process without taking a grain of medicine, if they could or would exercise the necessary precautions in the preservation of health; such as proper attention to their habits, diet and clothing, to the extent of exposure to the heat of the day, as well as to the damp and chilling SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 31 Character of the acclimating fever. night-air, and especially to the avoidance of all sources of mental inquietude. In some cases, the physical system be- comes sufficiently adapted to the climate to resist the surrounding deleterious influences, in two or three months. In other cases, a year or more elapses before this desirable point is reached. And in some cases, the physical system and the climate seem to be at variance for several years. In the course of my observations in the treatment of the acclimating fever, I fre- quently noticed that persons who had pre- viously suffered from local inflammatory affections were extremely liable to have a recurrence of some or all of the symptoms of the old disorder, in consequence of the previously inflamed organ or tissue being the "weak point" in the system. And in some cases, persons who might have en- joyed tolerable health in the United Stages die very soon after their arrival in Liberia, in consequence of the physical system not being sufficiently vigorous to undergo the necessary change, in order to become adapt- ed to the climate. Hence the impropriety of persons emigrating to Liberia whose constitutions have become much impaired by previous disease, by intemperance, or otherwise. And hence the necessity of Missionary Societies being careful in regard to the physical as well as to the moral quali- fications of those persons who offer them- selves as missionaries to Africa. 1 The majority of persons from the United States who take up their residence in Libe- ria have some development of fever, in some form or other, within the first two months after their arrival. The most com- mon form, perhaps, is that which medical writers generally call "Bilious Remitting Fever," which is usually simple in its cha- racter, and which generally yields readily, in a few days, to simple, mild, appropriate treatment. The first attack, however, is generally followed, within a few days or weeks, by a second similar, or nearly simi- lar, attack, or, which is more common, by one or other of the varieties of the intermitting form of fever ; and to this lat- ter kind of fever the individual is more or less subject until his system shall have be- come sufficiently adapted to the climate and to the local influences of the country to resist their peculiar effects. Not unfrequently the first attack, as well as the subsequent ones, assumes the intermitting form; in most c^ses, however, attended with considerable biliary derangement. The fever seldom as- sumes a strictly continued form, is seldom in- flammatory, and it seldom terminates in per- manent congestion of any internal organ. The congestive and inflammatory forms are perhaps never exhibited, except incases in which there is some striking constitutional peculiarity. Bilious vomiting frequently oc- curs, in both the remitting and intermitting forms; and sometimes gastric irritability pre- vails to a considerable extent, and renders the proper management of the case rather diffi- cult. In all cases the tongue is considerably furred, and in many cases headach,moreor less violent, continues during the continu- ance of the fever. Temporary delirium is sometimes present, during high febrile ex- citement; but it usually subsides with the re- mission or intermission of the fever. In reference to the most successful m"o"tfe" of treatment, it is impossible to furnish any statement which will be sufficiently intelli- gible and comprehensive to justify the* ap- plication of remedial medicinal means, with- out the judicious exercise of an enlightened judgment. I may, however, point out a few land-marks, and a few rocks and shoals, by which the untutored medical mariner may be able to steer his course with more safety than if he were entirely desti- tute of such information. And first, I would remark that there are two points of essen- tial importance, which cannot be too 32 SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Treatment of the acclimating fever. /''""Strongly impressed on the consideration of all persons who expect to reside in Libe- ria : The first is, the great advantage of mental as well as physical quietude, and patient resignation ; which necessarily im- ply the avoidance, as much as possible, of both mental and physical irritability, of despondency or gloomy forebodings, and of distrust in Divine Providence. 1 Whoever """goes to Africa, ought to go with the expect- ation of living, and if he should get sick he ought to try to get well again to avoid all excitement, and to endeavor to be cheer- ful and contented. The greatest difficulty with which I generally had to contend, in the treatment of the acclimating fever, was to prevent mental depression or desponden- cy in my patients. And I have invari- ably found , in cases in which patients ob- stinately and pertinaciously yielded to des- pondency, and abandoned all hope of get- ting well, that, sooner or later, their expec- tations were realized, and death closed the scene. The other point to which I would direct particular attention is, the danger of using medicinal agents too freely of rely- ing too much on the curative virtues of me- dicines, and not giving due attention to aux- iliary means ; which indeed are often of much more importance than all the pills and powders of the doctor or the druggist. I am quite satisfied that the lives of many persons have been sacrificed in .Liberia, by the too free or the injudicious use of medi- cines, especially calomel and drastic cath- artics. In reference to the use of calomel, I may state, that although I generally found the necessity for its use in the majority of cases of the acclimating fever which came under my treatment, yet I used it much more cautiously and sparingly than it is general- ly used by medical practitioners in the United States. I never gave more than eight grains at a time, and seldom gave more than fifteen grains during one attack of sickness. Whenever I found the ne- cessity for its administration, in any case, J sometimes gave it in about two grain doses, at intervals of about two hours, usu- ally in combination with some diaphoretic or sweating medicine, especially James' Powder. After three or four of these doses had been taken, I usually directed a moderate dose of castor oil to be taken, within ten or twelve hours after the first dose. In the beginning of an attack of fe- ver, especially in those cases in which the tongue was much coated, and the pa- tient complained of nausea, without free vomiting, I frequently gave a dose of ca- lomel and ipecacuanha, in the proportion of six or eight grains of the former to about twenty of the latter. This dose usually produced sufficient action on the bowels, as well as vomiting. If it failed to move the bowels, I always directed some mild laxa- tive afterwards generally castor oil or rhubarb. In some cases I had no occasion to give any other medicine, during the at- tack, than the dose of calomel and ipecac ; except generally, in the intermtitent form, quinine to break up the periodicity of the attack. I never gave calomel with the in- tention of producing salivation : this re- sult I always endeavored to guard against; and, of th pecially to the pit of the stomach, in cases attended with much irritability of that or- gan. I generally found that the vomiting ceased as soon as the plaster began to pro- duce its peculiar effects. I sometimes also applied a blister plaster to the back of the neck, in violent headach, with decided ad- vantage. In cases attended with marked inflammatory action in the stomach great tenderness to pressure, irritability, and other prominent symptoms, I sometimes resorted to local depletion, by cupping ; and 1 sometimes applied cups to the temples, 34 SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Leeches Quinine How administered. to relieve the head. I, however, more frequently resorted to the free application of leeches in such cases. These little ani- mals are very plentiful in Liberia, and they can be easily procured, at any time. They are about one-third the size of the ordinary foreign leeches, which are used in the Uni- ted States, and they draw much less blood. I have had nearly a hundred of them ap- plied to myself at one time. In the intermittent form of fever, Quinine is the remedium mggnum. I seldom failed to break up the attack, in a few days, by the judicious use of this medicine ; which, perhaps, approaches more nearly to a specific, than any other medicinal article. Although I had frequent attacks of inter- mittent fever during my residence in Libe- ria ; yet I never had more than three- paroxysm, during any one attack ; and I was generally able to prevent the third, by the use of this valuable remedy. My usual mode of taking or administering it, was in doses of about two grains, at intervals of two hours, commencing about eight hours before the time of the expected chill or ague ; whenever circumstances would admit its administration in this way. Sometimes, I gave it at intervals of one hour, commen- cing four or five hours before the time of the expected paroxysm. I generally found eight or ten grains to be sufficient. In cases in which the chill or ague came on early in the forenoon say 7 or 8 o'clock I gene- rally gave a single dose of about five grains, within an hour of the time at which the paroxysm was expected. In most cases, I believe one such dose would prevent an ague, if it could be taken within an hour of the expected attack. But, in conse- quence of more or less irregularity respect- ing the time at which a paroxysm might be expected, I generally found it necessary to commence the use of the quinine several hours previous to the time at which the preceding paroxysm made its appearance. It is best to continue the use of quinine two or three days after the chill or ague has been stopped, jn two grain doses taken several times during the day. I have but little confidence in the habitu- al use of wine, brandy, porter, ale, or any thing else of the kind, either as preventives of fever, or as tonics during convalescence, after an attack. The climate itself is too exciting and stimulating to the systems of new-comers generally; and, consequently, I always found it better to avoid the use of stimulating beverages ; except in cases of great physical prostration by disease ; in which some stimulating draught was im- peratively demanded. During the first six months of my residence in Liberia, I always found the use of wine injurious, at any time, in my own case. And I am decidedly of opinion, that cold water is the best beverage, in Liberia as well as in the United States. The moderate use of wine or porter, or even brandy, may sometimes be advantageous, in those cases in which the system has become greatly enfeebled, by frequent attacks of fever, and by the protracted enervating influences of the cli- mate ; but, in the majority of cases, 1 think the use of such beverages ought to be entirely dispensed with. I frequently found the use of various domestic remedies highly beneficial in the treatment of fevers in Liberia, particularly herb-teas, and the pepper cataplasm. The latter is almost universally used, instead of mustard ; in consequence of pepper being more convenient, as well as more active in its effects. The pepper pods whether green or red, are cut into small pieces, and mixed with corn or rice meal, or wheat-flour, and water, and made into a poultice or plaster, in the same manner as mustard plasters are usually made. The burning effects of this poultice will be experienced in a few min- utes. I have frequently found it to be very beneficial in relieving nausea or vomiting, SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 35 Diseases continued Rheumatism Dropsy Cutaneous affections, &c. and also colic pains, when applied over the stomach or abdomen. It is also a powerful revulsive agent, when applied to the ankles, wrists, bottom of the feet, or calves of the legs ; and it is peculiarly beneficial in some cases, in which the use of such an agent is indicated. The infusion of an herb called " fever tea," is generally very beneficial, as a diaphoretic, when taken warm, and as an agreeable beverage when taken cold, instead of water. Various other vegetable substances, which abound in Liberia, may be advantageously used, in making inno- cent and useful medicinal infusions'. j SKETCH No. 8. DISEASES Continued. In addition to the ordinary remittent and intermittent fev- ers, to which I have particularly alluded, I occasionally met with cases bearing some resemblance to other kinds of fever, which are usually described in medical book but they were generally not sufficiently marked to justify the distinctive appella- tions of nosological arrangement. I never saw a well-marked case of yellow fever in Liberia ; although this disease is frequently experienced at Sierra Leone, especially among European residents. Acute inflam- matory diseases are not common in Liberia. I seldom met with distinctly marked cases of pleurisy, or of any other violent or ac- tive inflammatory disease. It is very fortu- nate that such affections are not common ; for they are generally almost necessarily fatal in their termination. Dysentery and diarrhea are by no means so common, as might be supposed. I seldom met with very obstinate cases of either of these diseases. Slight attacks of diarrhoea are occasionally brought on by the intemperate use of some kinds of fruits ; and occasionally, in new-comers, by the too free use of some kinds of animal food, particularly fresh pork, beef, or fish. I met with a few cases of chronic dysentery ; and I experienced two or three attacks my- self. Rheumatism, both acute and chronic, occasionally occurs, never very violent, however, in either form. Dropsical affec- tions are rather frequent ; especially local anasarca, or dropsy of the cellular mem- brane beneath the skin a consequence of general debility, produced by frequent at- tacks of fever, inattention to diet and cloth- ing, and undue exposure. It is not uncom- .mon for the feet and legs of persons to swell more or less, during the acclimating pro- cess ; especially white persons, and bright mulattoes. This swelling generally grad- ually subsides, as the system becomes bt- ter adapted to the climate. Ascites, or dropsy of the abdomen, sometimes occurs, as a consequence of chronic affections of the liver or spleen, especially enlargement of one or both of these organs, after a long residence in the country. Such cases, however, are not so common as might be supposed. I never met with more than a dozen cases, during my residence in Libe- ria. No course of treatment which I ever pursued, in such cases, seemed to produce any decidedly beneficial effects. Cutaneous affections are quite common ; some of which are peculiar to the country or climate. Among the common eruptive ases, measles and erysiphelas are most frequently observed. The former of these diseases prevailed very extensively through- out Liberia, in the early part of 1845 ; but it was generally milder than it usually is in the United States. The latter, erysiphelas, generally appears in a mild form, with very little or no febrile action in the system. In the early part of 1848, small-pox prevailed pretty extensively in one of the settlements ; but, in nearly every case, it was in the modified form, called varioloid. This form of small -pox has several times prevailed, epidemically, in one or other of the settle- ments ; but it seldom proved fatal. I 36 SKETCHES OFLIBERIA. Leprosy Ulcers Flatulent colic. never saw but one case of genuine variola, in Liberia ; although, in some cases, the small-pox contagion results in the exhibition of this form of the disease, during the epi- demical prevalence of varioloid. A peculiar endemical pustulous affection, called " craw-craw, " or " kru-kru,"some- , times attacks persons who are not very careful in regard to cleanliness. It is a very common disease among the natives, and it is generally regarded as being contageous. It is sometimes very painful and trouble- some. Another disease of the skin, which is common among the natives, and which is occasionally observed among the Libe- rians, is the yaws ; which consists of ele- vated excrescences, usually appearing in continuous clusters, and discharging a thin corrosive ichor. Sometimes the yaws ap- pear on the soles of the feet, and prevent the patient from walking. Both these dis- eases are tedious and perplexing to both the patient and the doctor. Lepra, or leprosy, is occasionally seen in Liberia ; especially* among the aborigines. This distressing disease usually appears in brownish blotches scattered over the body ; from which a corrosive serous fluid is discharged, The toes and fingers fre- quently become ulcerated ; and sometimes the unfortunate invalid looses all the fingers on one hand or both, or all the toes on the feet ; and the soles of the feet are sometimes marked with deep fissures, or scooped out into ugly sores. The blotches on different parts of the body sometimes degenerate into foul and fetid ulcers of an irregular jagged appearance. This miserable disease sometimes continues to harass the individ- ual for years ; and it frequently results in 4eath. I have, however, frequently seen native persons who had recovered, with the loss of a portion of their hands or feet, or of both, after having suffered excruciatingly for months or years. I never saw but one well-marked case among the Liberians, and that was in a very old man. The most common and troublesome cu- taneous affections, (if they may be so clas- sed,) which occur in Liberia, are indolent ulcers ; which sometimes appear spontane- ously ; but which generally result from injuries, by which the skin is broken. The texture of the cutaneous and the muscular fibre seems to be more lax in tropical than in temperate climates ; and slight scratches, or abrasions of the skin, are much more liable to degenerate into ulcers, the degree of liability depending on the constitu- tional temperament of individuals, their habits, mode of living, &c. White persons and mulattoes are more subject to ulcerous affections as well as to most other diseases, than black persons ; in consequence, I pre- sume, of their physical systems being less adapted to the peculiarities of the climate ; a fact which must be admitted by all. These ulcers, though not generally very painful, are exceedingly annoying ; especially when they occur on the feet ; and they do not generally heal readily ; sometimes continu- ing for several months. If persons would be sufficiently careful to avoid injuries of the skin, they would not be very liable to these troublesome affections. Chronic nervous diseases are not very common in Liberia. I occasionally met with hysteria in females ; and I saw one or two cases of epilepsy, and one case of tetanus, or locked-jaw. Convulsive affec- tions are very rarely met with, in either in- fants or adults. Paralytic affections are occasionally, though seldom, seen. I never saw a distinctly marked case of whooping-cough in Liberia ; nor did I ever hear of its having prevailed epidemically, Flatulent colic frequently demands the the attention of the physician. It is gen- erally the result of the imprudent use of some indigestible article of food ; and i* SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 37 Intestinal Worms Enlargement of the Spleen Catarrhal Affections, &c. occurs more frequently in persons, during the first few months of their residence, than in older settlers. Sometimes the stomach and bowels become greatly distended with gas ; and the patient suffers very violent pain in the abdomen. I had several attacks of this painful affection, during the first year of my residence in Liberia ; the most violent of which was caused by the eating of a small piece of cheese. I was generally able to relieve the patient, afflicted with this disease, by the administration of a tea- spoonful of laudanum, followed by a full dose of castor oil ; the operation of which was sometimes assisted by an active injec- tion ; together with the application of a large pepper poultice over the abdomen. In some cases, especially when attended with a tendency to diarrhea, I gave nothing but the laudanum ; or, what sometimes had a better effect, a pill composed of one-sixth or one-fourth of a grain of morphine and two grains of camphor. Persons cannot be too careful in avoiding the use of such ar- ticles of food, as are not easily digestible. A very common affection, especially among children, is that of intestinal worms. The most common kind of worms which infest the alimentary canal, is the ascares lumbricoides, or common round worm. All the other varieties, however, are sometimes observed. I have seen several cases, in which the individuals voided detached por- tions of the tenia, or tape-worm. In pre- scribing for patients having worms, I depended more on the free use of spirits of turpentine, combined with, or followed by, castor oil, than any other vermifuge, in all the varieties. Sometimes I gave a few grains of calomel, followed in three or four hours by a free dose of oil and turpentine. In Liberia, as in other malarious countries or districts, cases of enlargement of the spleen vulgarly called "fever-cake" are frequently observed the result of repeated attacks of intermittent fever. This is much 3 more common in white than in colored resi- dents: very few white persons, indeed, are able to live five years in Liberia, without having more or less enlargement of the spleen. It is more frequently met with in mulattoes than in black persons: indeed, I do not remember a single case which came under my observation, in a person of una- dulterated African extraction ; although I have no doubt that such persons are some- times thus affected. The principal difficulty which usually arises from this affection, is, that it predisposes to dropsical affections. In many cases, however, dropsical effusions do not follow enlargement of the spleen ; except occasional swelling of the lower ex- tremities. A protracted sea-voyage, or a change of climate, is the only means with which I am acquainted, which will effect a reduction of this burdensome appendage. Slight catarrhal affections, (influenza,) are occasionally experienced in Liberia ; especially during the harmattan season ; but these generally pass off in a few days, without any serious injury. I never knew a case to result in active inflammation of any part of the respiratory apparatus. Some other diseases, which are common to most countries, may be occasionally observed in Liberia ; but the variety is much less than in the United States ; and, except in some old chronic affections, in broken-down constitutions, convalescence s generally much more rapid ; in conse- quence of the less violence of the attack. Among the many attacks of fever which I experienced, I never was obliged to remain n my room more than a week, at any one time ; and I very seldom was confined to my bed longer than twenty-four hours at a time. The danger in new-comers generally consists more in the frequency, than in the violence, of the attacks of sickness. And he majority of colored immigrants, who have sufficient prudence to use such means for the preservation of their health in Li- beria, as an enlightened judgment would 38 SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. Sleepy Disease.' dictate, usually enjoy as good health, after the first year of their residence, as they formerly enjoyed in the United States. In some -cases, indeed, the state of the health of immigrants is decidedly improved by the change of residence from America to Afri- ca. The large majority of cases of sick- ness, which came under my observation, among those persons who had resided a year or more in Liberia, was in indolent, and consequently indigent, persons, whose prudence was commensurate with their im- providence. Indeed, in view of the heed- lessness, carelessness, and indolence of many persons, who were scarcely ever sick, I was astonished at their continued exemp- tion from disease, I will conclude this brief medical history of Liberia, with a short notice of a peculiar endemic affection ; which may be termed Lethargus, but which is commonly called the "Sleepy Disease." J have seen eight or ten cases of this somniferous malady; five or six of which were among persons who had emigrated from the United States. It is, however, much more frequently ex- hibited among the aborigines than among the Liberians. The only characteristic mark of this affection, is an irresistible tendency to sleep the patient frequently falling asleep, even while eating. He can generally be easily aroused ; but he almost immediately relapses into a state of pro- found slumber. The patient scarcely ever experiences the slightest pain ; and no feb- rile symptoms are usually exhibited, until near the fatal close of the incurable malady. The appetite is usually voracious, and the bowels obstinately constipated. The food taken does not seem to nourish the system; in consequence of the disordered state of the organs of digestion and nutrition ; the difficulty existing principally, perhaps, in the mesenteric glands. Indeed, the whole glandular system, including the lymphatic and the lacteal glands, seems to be in a torpid state, in this affection. No peculiar marks of disease are usually exhibited, on examinations after death. In all cases of which I have heard, the brain especially appeared to be in a healthy condition at least, that organ exhibited no perceptible evidence of disease ; and no other part of the body exhibited any peculiar organical affection ; except some of the lymphatic glands, which presented an enlarged and inflamed appearance. Those about the neck generally appear considerably swelled; and the natives sometimes extirpate those enlarged glands, under the impression that they are the source of the affection ; with what success in removing the disease may be readily imagined by any intelligent person, in whom the bump of credulity is not too largely developed. Among the various causes of this strange affection, which have been assigned, per- haps no particular one can be fully relied on. Indolent habits, unwholesome and indigestible vegetable diet, together with some peculiar influence of the climate, associated with the prolonged action of miasmata or malaria, operating on a sys- tem peculiarly predisposed to lethargy, may be regarded as the exi citing cause, by which functional derangement of the ner- vous system is produced, resulting in a lost balance of the circulation, and a gene- ral functional impairment of the whole glandular apparatus of the body. The disease (if disease it may be called,) al- ways approaches gradually; sometimes several months elapsing before it is fully developed. And, although I have had pretty fair opportunities of testing the vir- tues of various medicinal agents, in differ- ent stages of the disease ; yet, I never was able to effect more than a temporary cessa- tion of it, in the beginning, or a temporary mitigation of it, after its full development. The most graphic notice of this lazy di- sease, with which I have met, is that given in the "Journal of an American Cruiser ;'* SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 39 Conclusion. and, as I saw the patient, in company with the author, I will subjoin an extract from that interesting little book. " We entered the hut without ceremony, and looked about us for old Mamma's beautiful grand- daughter. But, on beholding the object of our search, a kind of remorse or dread came over us ; such as often affects those who intrude upon the awfulness of slum- ber. The girl lay asleep in the adjoining apartment, on a mat that was spread over the hard ground ; and with no pillow be- neath her cheek-. She slept so quietly , and drew such imperceptible breath, that I scarcely thought her alive. With some difficulty, she was aroused, and she awoke with a frightened cry a strange and bro- ken murmur, as if she were looking dimly out of her sleep, and knew not whether our figures were real, or only the phantasies of a dream. Her eyes were wild and glassy, and she seemed to be in pain. While awake, there was a nervous twitching about her mouth and in her fingers ; but, being again extended on the mat, and left to herself, these symptoms of disquietude passed away; and she almost immediately sank again into the deep and heavy sleep, in which we found her. This poor girl had been suffering no, not suffering, for, except when forcibly aroused, there appears to be no uneasiness, but she had been lingering two months in a disease peculiar lo Africa commonly called the ' sleepy disease.' Her aspect was inconceivably affecting. It was strange to behold her so quietly involved in sleep ; from which it might be supposed she would awake so full of youthful life and yet to know that this was no refreshing slumber ; but a spell in which she was fast fading away from the eyes of those that loved her. Whatever might chance, be it grief or joy, the effect would be the same. Whoever should shake her by the arm whether the accents of a friend fell feebly on her ear, or those of strangers, like ourselves, the only re- sponse would be that troubled cry; as of a spirit that hovered on the confines of both worlds, and could have sympathy with neither. The peal of the last trumpet only will summon her out of that mysterious sleep." CONCLUSION. Had I not been apprehensive that I might unnecessarily swell the size of this little work, by details which may be easily ob- tained from other sources, I might have dwelt, at considerable length, on the con- sideration of the nature of the civil govern- ment, and of the political institutions of Liberia. I might also have made particular allu- sion to the results of missionary operations in Liberia, and its vicinity. But as there are various sources whence information may be derived on this subject ; and as my sit- uation did not afford me opportunities for making those frequent and protracted ob- servations which I regard as necessary, in order to the presentation of strictly impar- tial and truthful statements, respecting the operations and results of the missionary enterprise ; and also as such allusions and details do not come within the scope of the prescribed design of this work, it being in- tended particularly for the information of those persons who may be in search of truth, with the view of making Liberia the place of their future residence ; I do not deem it necessary or proper for me to dwell on the detail of particulars, relative to the operations of missionary societies ; especially as I do not regard myself as al- together competent, as before observed, to present full and faithful statements on this subject ; and as I feel disposed to write only what I do know, and testify what I have seen. In reference to the civil government of Liberia, I may here simply state, that it is based on the principles of republicanism; and, in every essential particular, it may be regarded as a miniature representation of the Government of the United States; the 40 SKETCHES OF LIBERIA President Senators Representatives Expenses of the Government, &c. only particular point of difference being in the name of the national assembly, which is styled Legislature instead of Congress ; and in the time of service of the principal officers of the Government. The President is elected by the popular vote, for two years, and he is eligible to re-election. The Senators, of whom there are two from each county six in all are elected for four years, and the Representatives, of whom there are eight in all, are elected for two years. The only cabinet officers who have yet been commissioned are, the Secretaries of State and of the Treasury, and the Attorney General. AH the officers of justice are appointed by the President, with the consent of the Senate. The ju- dicial power of the Republic is vested in a supreme court, a court of quarter sessions", in each county, and magistrate's courts, which meet monthly. No white person is allowed to become a citizen; consequently, white residents cannot hold any office in the Government. Previous to the establishment of the Re- public the current expenses of the Govern- ment were defrayed by the duties on impor- tations ; the average annual amount of which was about $8,000. But as addi- tional expenses have been incurred by the change in the political relations, the amount derived from that source alone is not suffi- cient for the necessary expenditures in the support of the Government. Hence, the pas- sage of a law at the first session of the Legis- lature of the Republic, in January 1848, by which the Government monopolises the trade in certain articles. It is calculated that the revenue arising from the profits on the sale of these articles, together with the custom duties, will be sufficient to meet the expenses of the Government. I am apprehensive that this governmental mono- poly will not operate so well as some of its sanguine supporters imagine ; and that cir- cumstances will render it expedient for a system of direct taxation to be adopted, and carried into operation ; or for a con- siderable increase of the tariff. The Government of Liberia is now al- together in the hands, and under the entire management of the citizens of Liberia, no white person, on either side of the Atlantic, being, in any way, connected with its ope- rations. And if the disputed question has not yet been fully settled, whether colored persons are capable of self-government or not, a few years will decide the point. The people of Liberia are now fairly " self- poised," and feeling confident, as I do, of the clemency and forbearance of all fo- reign nations towards that infant Republic, so long as the Government shall be main- tained on the principles of national recti- tude, (without which no government is worthy of encouragement,) I am quite sa- tisfied that if the Republic of Liberia shall ingloriously fall, and her institutions be de- molished, or if those institutions shall be voluntarily transferred to the control and management of any foreign power, the re- sult will indubitably exhibit the melancho- ly fact, that the maintenance of an inde- pendent government by the colored race is at least, a subject of dubious practicability. I confidently hope, however, that the " lone star" of the Republic of Liberia, which is now culminating over a portion of the western coast of benighted Africa, will continue to shine, not like the brilliant me- teor, or the erratic comet, but like the efful- gent orb of day, which sheds his enliven- ing beams with increasing splendor as he ascends above the fleecy clouds which over- hang the eastern sky. In addition to the brief reflections which have been thrown out, in the different parts of this work, I would here make a few suggestions which maybe worthy the par- ticular attention of those persons who may emigrate to Liberia. The reader will, no doubt, be fully convinced, if he believes the statements herein exhibited, of the practi- cability of a comfortable competency being realized in Liberia, as the reward of indus- SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 41 The Cultivation of the Soil the chief source of Wealth and Independence. try and frugality. And the intelligent man of color who is accustomed to observation and reflection cannot but be convinced that he may enjoy privileges there the privileges of a freeman in the full import of the term, of which he is virtually deprived in every part of the United States, by the conven- tional rules of society among the domi- nant inheritors of a fairer complexion. But while I do not hesitate, in view of the facts set forth in this work, to recommend Liberia as an inviting field for enterprise, and a desirable place of residence ; I may here state that, during my residence there, my eyes were not too frequently dazzled by captivating sights of agricultural industry, and of mechanical enterprise, to blind me to the conviction that much remains to be done, before the little African Republic can be regarded as an earthly paradise. In reference to the cultivation of the soil^ especially, which is the true road to inde-l pendence in any country, I may remark,! that comparatively few of the present citi-i zens of Liberia are regularly and syste-j matically engaged in this branch of practi-j cal industry. Unfortunately for the pros- perity of Liberia, many of the earlier settlers fancied that they had found a more easy and more speedy highway to Wealth, in the wholesale, retail, and demoralizing system of barter with their ignorant aboriginal neighbors ; and many of their successors, lured on by this apparently accommodating j means of ease and comfort, started their' little crafts in the wakes of those of their predecessors ; and not a few of them, in their eagerness to become rich, have failed to be warned by the disasters which attend- ed many of those who preceded them. But happily for Liberia, the traffic incanr-wood and palm oil is becoming so unprofitable in consequence of excess of competition not only among the Liberians themselves but among foreign traders, that it mus soon occupy a station, as a source o wealth, inferior to that of the cultivation of V. the soil : the siren song of commercial ex- J periment must give place to the cheerfnl / hum of agricultural industry. I trust that/ the citizens of Liberia are generally be- coming aroused to a consciousness of this important truth, and indeed during the last few years more attention has been given to agriculture than previously. Yet much re- mains to be accomplished, to demonstrate to distant nations the fact that Liberia is one of the most productive countries in the world ; a fact, which I believe may, and I hope will be clearly demonstrated, by the quantity and quality of agricultural pro- ducts which maybe exported, and by the comfort and independence of a respectable yeomanry. A more regular, systematic^ and perse- vering course of farming operations must, however, be introduced. Greater attention ought also to bfi given to agricultural ex- periments, to develop the resources of the soil ; and to ascertain the most appropriate periods of the year, for the planting of dif- ferent vegetable substances. Much more \/ attention should also be given to the raising of different kinds of stock ; and to the in- troduction of various mechanical inventions, in carrying on agricultural operations. One very important thing 'which has re- ceived very limited attention in Liberia, is that of fencing, or the enclosing of lots and fields; by the neglect of which, many per- sons have frequently lost the principal part of the fruits of their labor, in the tilling of the soil. Undoubtedly, the best fences which can be made in Liberia are those that are commonly called ' ' growing fences , ' ' made by planting certain shrubs closely together, and trimming them occasion- ally. Several different kinds of shrubs may be easily and abundantly procured, for making these fences. And, with proper attention, a piece of land may, in two or three years, be thus securely and substan- SKETCHES OP LIBfiltlA. Concluding Remarks. tially enclosed with a fence which will last many years. Hitherto, the people of Liberia generally have been too easily intimidated or discour- aged by comparatively small obstacles ; some of which have been more imaginary than real. Difficulties, however, do really exist; but these difficulties are generally far less than those which exist in carrying on farming operations in any part of the United States. And I am quite satisfied that every thing which is really necessary for human subsistence and comfort, to- gether with many luxuries, can be Raised in Liberia, with much less labor than would be required to procure the neces- saries of life in -the United States. Let the cultivation of the soil* then> re- ceive that attention which it should receive, us the principal means of wealth let a regular, systematic, and persevering course of agricultural operations be carried on ; and the citizens of Liberia may live in ease and comfort and independence. In tracing the various events connected with the rise and progress of the Repub^- lic of Liberia, no unprejudiced individual can for a moment doubt that the smiles of Heaven have rested upon it ; and that the sheltering wings of a kind Providence have been spread over it for good not only to the immigrants from this country, but to the benighted and degraded aborigines of Africa a land which has so long been enveloped in the darkness of heathenism. And, in view of the social and political position and relations of colored persons in the United States, contrasted with the position and relations of the free and inde- pendent citizens of that young Republic, it must be admitted by all candid persons, that the condition of those people in Li- beria who are disposed to use the necessary appliances for making themselves truly in- dependent, is vastly superior to that of free people of color in any part of this country. Though many difficulties have been en- countered in the progressive exaltation of the infant Colony to the present interesting and flourishing Republic, and though many obstacles will necessarily be presented to its onward progress ; yet, it is clearly evident that the experiment has been fairly tried, the experiment of establishing on the coast of Africa a community and government of colored immigrants from this country, and has been crowned with complete suc- cess ;- a success even beyond the most sanguine expectations of the benevolent founders of the Colonization Society ; who amidst difficulties which Seemed almost in- surmountable, determined to try what could be done towards the establishment on the coast of Africa of an asylum and a home for the people of color of the United States ; who, in the language of a public journal- ist, " are here restricted in the exercise of the very elementary principles of existence best calculated to expand and exalt the heart and mind," and who, in every part of this country, must continue to labor Un- der political and social disadvantages ; from which they can be fully rescued in no other way than by voluntarily emigrating to a country in which the restrictions that are here thrown around them cannot operate a country in which they may enjoy the benefits of free government, with all the blessings of civil and religious liberty. In the providence of God, by the efforts of those who have been "laborers together with him," such an asylum has been es- tablished : difficulties which at first appear- ed almost insuperable have been overcome ; and Liberia now presents an inviting field for commercial enterprise and agricul- tural industry, and a desirable home for all persons of color who wish to realize the privileges of freedom and the blessings of* independence. But while I would heartily recommend. Liberia as a desirable place of residence for colored persons who are disposed to appreciate the advantages and to improve SKETCHES OF LIBERIA. 43 Concluding Remarks. the privileges there afforded, I would not adrise any person to emigrate thither, who will not go cheerfully, and with a deter- mination to try to overcome every obstacle that may be presented. I am decidedly of opinion, that, with a cheerful, contented mind, and industrious habits, colored per- sons may live more easily, more comfortably, and more independently than they can in the United States. In Liberia, however, as in ]/ all other new countries, industry and per- severance are necessary ; and while to the man of enterprise and frugality it affords a desirable home, and promises a rich reward to his labors, it offers no encouragement to those who expect to live in luxurious ease and pampered indolence. In conclusion, I would repeat, that I firmly believe that the hand of an overrul- ing Providence has been extended over the progressive course of that little Republic. And, whatever may be said in opposition to the wise and benevolent scheme of Colonization ; and however apparently plausible may be the objections of persons who are unfriendly to the cause ; it is clear- ly evident to any individual whose mind is unprejudiced, especially to those who have had opportunities for personal observation and investigation as to the results of that enterprise, that it is one of the instruments in the hands of the Almighty Ruler of the universe for carrying out his wise designs with reference to Africa. And in view of what has already been accomplished, and of the incalculable amount of good which may yet be accomplished, through the instru- mentality of the Colonization Society, and of the Republic of Liberia ; surely no true friend of the colored race can consistently oppose the operations of the former, or withhold the expression or exhibition of a sincere desire for the continued prosperity of the latter. Through the instrumentality of the Gov- ernment of Liberia ; much has been done towards the suppression of the nefarious traffic in slaves. Within the jurisdiction of that miniature Republic, whence, a few years ago, hundreds and thousands of miserable beings were transported, like in- animate objects of merchandize, to the western world, the slave-trade has been en- tirely abolished ; and many of the con- tiguous native tribes have laid down their weapons of warfare, and have sought the protection of that Government. And I verily believe that God intends that the mental illumination of the degraded ab- origines of Africa; is to be effected chiefly by her own returning civilized and Chris- tian children by the influence and example of colored immigrants and teachers from this side of the Atlantic; carrying with them and introducing among the ignorant , natives, habits of civilized life, and the blessings of the gospel of peace and salva- tion; and by the missionary labors of en- lightened and converted native inhabitants. Thus shall the belligerant hordes of Africa be induced to convert their instruments of war- fare into agricultural implements ; thus shall the slave-trade be effectually and forever suppressed ; and thus shall Ethiopia be taught to stretch out her hands unto God, M192235 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY BERKELEY Return to desk from This boo! 1 6 1971 3 on the last which borrowed. e stamped below. CD 26Mar'57B. REC'D LD MAR 12 1957 REC'D LD r : ; D LD i IUL 'ty., V