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 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. 
 
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MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS 
 
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 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING Co. 
 
 132 NASSAU STREET. NEW YORK 
 
MOLDING CONCRETE 
 BATH TUBS, AQUARIUMS 
 AND NATATORIUMS 
 
 A PRACTICAL TREATISE 
 
 EXPLAINING THE MOLDING IN CONCRETE OF VARIOUS 
 STYLES OF BATH TUBS, LAUNDRY TRAYS, ETC., WITH 
 EASILY CONSTRUCTED MOLDS FOR THE PURPOSE. THE 
 MOLDING OF AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS, AS WELL 
 AS THE WATER-PROOFING METHODS USED FOR SAME, 
 ARE FULLY TREATED. 
 
 By 
 A. A. HOUGHTON 
 
 Author of " Concrete from Sand Molds," " Ornamental Concrete 
 Without Molds," Etc., Etc 
 
 Fully Illustrated by Original Drawings. 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 THE NORMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING CO. 
 
 132 NASSAU STREET 
 
 1911 
 
<!:*< 
 
 COPYRIGHTED, 1911, 
 
 BY 
 THE NOEMAN W. HENLEY PUBLISHING Co. 
 
 HOAGLAND-ADAMS CO. 
 
 Printers Binders Electrotypers 
 
 476 West Broadway, New York, U.S.A. 
 
J 
 
 FOREWORD 
 
 IT is the purpose of the writer to present in this 
 series of books a complete explanation of various 
 successful methods of concrete construction that may 
 be employed by the beginner as well as by the more 
 experienced worker. I shall endeavor to give the 
 details of molds and ideas that are not covered by 
 patents, such as may be easily and cheaply con- 
 structed; hence the reader is not compelled to pur- 
 chase expensive patented molds before putting into 
 practise the many successful types of concrete con- 
 struction I have exhaustively described in this series. 
 There is no practical value to the reader in explain- 
 ing a patented system of construction, other than a 
 few words on its merits, as the owners of same are 
 always pleased to give this information; hence in 
 going outside the beaten track of concrete authors 
 and presenting ideas, systems, and molds that are 
 practical, successful in operation, and, above all, 
 easily and simply constructed, I trust that I have 
 merited the sincere gratitude of all fellow workers 
 in the concrete field who seek such information. 
 Yours very truly, 
 
 A. A. HOUGHTON. 
 
 221002 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The writer has endeavored to treat the subject 
 of molding concrete bath tubs in a complete man- 
 ner, employing only such molds as are certain of 
 success, as well as having the advantage of being 
 easily and simply constructed. 
 
 The close imitation of the usual type of marble, 
 metal or composition tub is not essential, even if 
 it is desirable, as concrete is an entirely different 
 material, demanding more massive lines to be 
 durable ; hence, other than upon the point of use, 
 the concrete bath tub should be molded and sold 
 as concrete, and upon its merits as concrete, and 
 not as an imitation of any other material. 
 
 This, of course, should not be construed to mean 
 that the molding of smooth, glossy concrete that 
 will reflect light, like polished stone, in any man- 
 ner detracts from the beauty of the material, nor 
 can this be judged to be an imitation of stone, as 
 this is but an artificial finish to any product, and 
 is as permissible for concrete as for any other 
 material. 
 
 The simple construction of the molds for this 
 work, as are fully illustrated in this volume, will 
 convince the reader that the molding of concrete 
 
PREFACE 
 
 bath tubs is extremely practical, and that there 
 should be a most excellent sale for the finished 
 product in competition with the marble and met.il 
 tubs for this purpose, as a concrete bath tub may 
 be molded and sold at a price far less than of 
 other material, and yet yield the worker a good 
 profit for his work. 
 
 Concrete may also be made an ideal materi.il 
 for aquariums, as it is for natatoriums. The sim- 
 ple and easy method of molding the work with 
 glass inserted into the sides, will be of interest to 
 those who have contemplated any work of this 
 kind. 
 
 Concrete laundry trays or tubs are extremely 
 practical, and at the low cost of same, with the 
 simplicity and ease of molding, should make them 
 a profitable side line for every concrete plant. 
 
 The subject of water-proofing concrete is one of 
 great interest, while the writer does not believe 
 that the most positive and successful method for 
 all classes of work has yet been discovered, yet a 
 description of the best known methods and mate- 
 rials in use to-day may be of use and value to the 
 reader who wants to make the best choice for the 
 type of work under construction. 
 
 A. A. HOUGHTON. 
 
 April, 1911. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 PROPORTIONING AND MIXING THE CONCRETE . . . .13 
 
 CONSTRUCTION OF THE CORE . , . . .4 .14 
 
 MOLDS FOR BATH TUBS . " . . . . . . . 16 
 
 MOLDING RIM OF BATH TUBS . . . . . .21 
 
 THE PLASTER SYSTEM OF MOLDING BATH TUBS . .25 
 
 MOLDING THE SQUARE STYLE OF BATH TUB . . . .27 
 
 MOLDING THE LEGS UPON BATH TUBS . . . . .28 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE LAVATORIES, SINKS AND CLOSET BOWLS . 30 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE LAUNDRY TUBS . . . ... 36 
 
 MOLDING A CONCRETE AQUARIUM . . . . . 41 
 
 DESIGN FOR A LARGE CONCRETE AQUARIUM ' * . .45 
 
 CONCRETE AQUARIUMS FOR OUTSIDE USE . . .47 
 
 MOLDING A CONCRETE NATATORIUM . . 49 
 
 WATER-PROOFING CONCRETE . . .- . .53 
 
 VARIOUS METHODS OF WATER-PROOFING . . . . .54 
 
 USE OF PATENT COMPOUNDS FOR WATER-PROOFING CONCRETE . 59 
 
Molding Concrete Bath Tubs, Aqua- 
 riums and Natatoriums 
 
 The concrete bath tub, as well as any article 
 molded in concrete and intended to retain water, 
 should be of such a mixture as to secure the maxi- 
 mum density of the concrete. This is an aid in 
 making the work water-proof, as the closing of the 
 pores is accomplished, thus demanding less treat- 
 ment to make a thoroughly water-proof product. 
 
 To secure the maximum density, without pres- 
 sure, the concrete must be of a wet mix, so that 
 it can be poured and thus flow to every part of the 
 mold. This permits the molds to have a smaller 
 opening for placing the concrete than if the mix- 
 ture was to be tamped into the molds. 
 
 The addition of from one-tenth and one-fourth 
 to equal parts of hydrated lime, in proportion to 
 the cement used, is also of value, as the extreme 
 fineness of the lime causes it to fill the voids or 
 pores in the concrete, thus increasing the density 
 of the work. With a rich mixture of concrete and 
 the addition of lime, usually about 25% of the 
 weight of the cement, work may be molded by 
 the wet process that is practically water-proof; 
 at the worst demanding but the minimum of spe- 
 
 13 
 
14 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 cial treatment to render it absolutely water-tight. 
 
 The sand for this work, when used for a bath 
 tub or small aquarium, should run from coarse to 
 fine particles, and be clean and sharp without the 
 presence of any loam or clay; this may be tested 
 by placing in water and allowing to settle, when 
 the presence of any dirt may be easily detected. 
 The necessity for clean and well-graded aggregate 
 is greater where the work does not have the body 
 or wall thickness to give it the needful strength. 
 
 The rdost successful mixture for a bath tub or 
 small aquarium is secured when in the proportion 
 of 1:3, using sand as the aggregate; to this may 
 be added 25% of hydrated lime with beneficial re- 
 sults, based on the weight of the cement used. 
 Thus, for each sack of cement, 25 pounds of lime 
 are added to the mixture. The concrete should 
 be wet enough to be poured from a pail into the 
 molds or forms, pouring it slowly so to permit th<* 
 grout to flow to all parts of the mold. This will 
 insure the maximum density, as well as the 
 strongest bond between the concrete and rein- 
 forcement, which should be added where the walls 
 are less than 2 inches in thickness at any point. 
 
 CONSTRUCTION OF THE CORE 
 
 At Fig. 1, is shown one of the simplest forms of 
 constructing a core for a concrete bath tub mold. 
 This is built of sheet steel, bent over a wood form, 
 to give it the shape or outline desired. This 
 
AQUAEIUMS AND NATATOEIUMS. 
 
 15 
 
 FIG. 1. Construction of core for concrete bath tub. 
 
16 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 should be less in width at the bottom than at the 
 top, so to give a tapering or wedge-shaped form, 
 which is the more easily drawn from the com- 
 pleted work. 
 
 The ends are cut in a convex form, as illus- 
 trated, and then securely fastened to two straight 
 strips that make the sides of the core, at top and 
 bottom of same. The sheet metal for the sides 
 of the core should be No. 27 or 28 gauge, so to 
 be the more easily bent to fit the wood form ; that 
 for the sides is cut the exact width and nailed to 
 the wood strips at top and bottom. The bottom 
 of mold is covered by a sheet of the metal, cut to 
 fit the core form at bottom. 
 
 The core mold should be well coated with oil 
 before use, or by giving two coats of enamel, tlx 
 surface will be less liable to stick to the concrete, 
 permitting the core to be withdrawn with ease 
 and success. 
 
 While the core in illustrations is shown with 
 oval ends, as that is the most satisfactory form, 
 yet the worker may easily adapt the method of 
 construction, to a square form as well as to any 
 other type he may prefer. 
 
 MOLDS FOR BATH TUBS 
 
 As shown in the illustration at Fig. 2, the bath 
 tub is molded bottom upward, which brings the 
 trowel finish upon the bottom of the tub, and also 
 permits the legs to be the more successfully 
 
AQUAEIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 
 
 17 
 
 FIG. 2. Mold for bath tub of concrete. 
 
18 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 molded. The core form is inverted in the center 
 of the molding board, or mold for the rim of tub, 
 and is held in position by blocks or cleats nailed 
 to the molding board. The forms or molds for the 
 outside of tub are then placed around the core ;\\ 
 an equal distance from same upon all sides, and 
 when the reinforcement is in position it is then 
 ready for the concrete to be poured. 
 
 The construction of the outside molds are 
 clearly shown in Fig. 2; the two ends are formed 
 by using concave strips of wood, cut to the size 
 desired for the top and bottom of tub, and with 
 the curve you desire for the outside at each end 
 of tub. The sides of the mold are made from 
 straight strips of the right length, and these are 
 held against the end strips, when molding work, 
 by strips of strap iron, fastened with screws and 
 connecting the two pieces together. Thus the 
 completed mold for outside of tub is composed of 
 four sections, one for each end and two side sec- 
 tions; these are easily assembled by attaching 
 the strap irons at each joint, and as easily re- 
 moved from the completed work. 
 
 The inside of the wood strips is lined with sheet 
 metal, using No. 27 or 28 gauge. This must be 
 wide enough so that the outside mold will be at 
 least 11/2 inches above the core, when in position 
 for molding, so as to mold the bottom of the tub. 
 The inside or molding surface is coated with any 
 good enamel, so to make a smooth molding sur- 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATOEIUMS. 19 
 
 face as well as to prevent the mold from sticking 
 to the work. 
 
 The best thickness for the walls of a tub of this 
 style is 114-inch for the sides, and 1% or 2 inches 
 for the bottom, reinforced with wire cloth of 
 %-inch mesh or expanded metal. The reinforce- 
 ment is cut and bent into the form of tub and se- 
 curely wired together, so that it may be simply 
 set over the core form and will then be exactly in 
 the center of the molded wall. The reinforce- 
 ment may be modeled over the core form by lay- 
 ing or lightly nailing lath to the outside of the 
 core, thus insuring that the complete reinforce- 
 ment will be placed in the center of the wall. A 
 special wood form may also be employed to build 
 the reinforcing metal into the proper form, when 
 time is of importance. The advantage in having 
 a wall of 1% to 1% inches is that the weight of 
 the completed tub is greatly reduced, thus making 
 this style of tub practical for the purpose. The 
 ample reinforcement will make a wall thickness 
 of 1% inches, with a bottom thickness of 1% 
 inches, strong enough for the work, and yet have 
 the tub light enough to be easily moved when it is 
 so desired. 
 
 The type of metal lined mold, illustrated in Fig. 
 2, is of the most durable construction, as thef e is 
 no wood in contact with the concrete whatever. It 
 also permits the outside metal to be cut from 
 sheet steel ceiling plates, which are stamped with 
 
20 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 FIG. 3. Plaster mold for rim of bath tub. 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 21 
 
 various ornamental forms, thus molding the out- 
 side surface of tub with bas-relief ornamentation 
 upon same. This feature, when properly done, 
 should make the concrete tub a strong competitor 
 of the usual style among the great mass of people 
 to whom price as well as appearance is of con- 
 sideration. 
 
 MOLDS FOR RIM OF BATH TUB 
 
 At Fig. 3 is shown the method of making a con- 
 crete or plaster mold for the rim of the bath tub. 
 The core form is set in the center of the molding 
 board, inverted, and a square form of wood strips 
 erected around same. These are 3 inches in 
 height, and at least 6 inches larger than the core 
 form upon all sides. The plaster or concrete is 
 then tamped into this form, and with a trowel or 
 gutter tool, the mortar is molded into a concave 
 form of the exact shape desired for the rim of 
 tub. 
 
 This may be cut in sections or remain in one en- 
 tire section, as the worker may desire for con- 
 venience in storing. The work is easily removed 
 from the mold in either case. The inside of the 
 plaster or concrete mold for rim should be treated 
 to two coats of shellac, so to give a smooth mold- 
 ing surface. When the completed mold is assem- 
 bled, the outside form will rest upon this plaster 
 mold for rim; this is usually filled with the con- 
 crete mixture for bath tub before the outside mold 
 
22 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 "Fio. 4. Constructing a wood mold for rim of bath tub. 
 
AQUAKIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 23 
 
 is placed upon same, thus insuring that the rim 
 will be perfectly molded. 
 
 Another style of mold for rim is shown in Fig. 
 4. This may be used upon tubs where the ends 
 are constructed in the form shown in illustration, 
 also as a rim mold upon the square style of con- 
 crete bath tub. 
 
 The mold is easily constructed by cutting strips 
 of cove or scotia moulding, to join^m the manner 
 shown in the illustration at Fig. 4. The two con- 
 cave sides of the moulding are joined together, so 
 to make the semi-circular channel for the rim, the 
 largest size of cove molding will be necessary 
 so to give the rim a width of at least 2% inches. 
 The height of the rim may be changed by planing 
 off the top of the wood molding, if that is con- 
 sidered desirable. 
 
 The wood mold for rim must be well coated with 
 shellac and also given a coating of oil before the 
 work is molded, so that the wood will not absorb 
 the moisture from the concrete, and also to pre- 
 vent the concrete from adhering to same and thus 
 spoiling the cast. 
 
 The mold for rim should be in several sections, 
 so to be the more easily removed from the molded 
 work. These may be held together when molding 
 the tub by strips of strap iron fastened with 
 screws, as explained for the outside sections of 
 bath tub mold; or the sections may also be fas- 
 tened together with hooks and eyelets upon the 
 
24 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 FIG. 5. Tho plnstor system of molding a bath tub. 
 
AQUAEIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 25 
 
 outside, or by blocks of wood nailed to the mold- 
 ing board along the outside of rim mold. 
 
 THE PLASTER SYSTEM OF MOLDING 
 
 The plaster system of molding a concrete bath 
 tub, as illustrated in Fig. 5, is practically the same 
 as that employed for the method shown in Fig. 2, 
 with the exception that the outside form is not 
 used. The concrete mortar or stucco is plastered 
 upon metal lath, which are placed over a core 
 form, to aid in holding the lath into position 
 against the pressure of applying the plaster. 
 
 The wire cloth or expanded metal lath are fitted 
 together to conform to the outline of the bath tub, 
 then placed over the core form and the stucco 
 applied; when the concrete is sufficiently hard- 
 ened, the work is turned over and the core form 
 removed ; then the inside of tub is given a plaster 
 coating of cement mortar, if needed. Usually the 
 mortar may be pressed through the wire lath and 
 up against the core, so to make the inside plaster- 
 ing of the work unnecessary. 
 
 This system of molding makes it possible to 
 produce a bath tub that is far less in weight, with 
 ample strength for the purpose than when pro- 
 duced in molds. By having a number of core 
 forms, the worker can perfect as many tubs each 
 day as he may have time to complete, as there is 
 not the necessity of waiting for the concrete to 
 harden before the outside form is removed. 
 
26 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 (3. Molds for the square style of bath tub. 
 
AQTJAKIUMS AND STATATORIUMS. 27 
 
 MOLDING THE SQUARE STYLE OF BATH TUB 
 
 The simplest style of molded bath tub is shown 
 in Fig. 6. This requires a simple box form for the 
 outside centering, or mold to the tub, which is or- 
 namented by panels. 
 
 This style of tub is usually molded in the posi- 
 tion it should occupy, as its weight does not make 
 it possible to be moved very easily. To mold this 
 upright, the core must be suspended in the proper 
 position by strips placed across the top of the out- 
 side molds, and the concrete poured or tamped 
 around core. By placing the concrete for the bot- 
 tom of tub first, before setting the core form in 
 the center of mold, the perfect molding of the bot- 
 tom is assured. 
 
 The sides of tub may be ornamented by mold- 
 ing panels of concrete of a contrasting color to 
 that used in the body of the tub, and then insert- 
 ing in the outside molds at the proper point, thus 
 producing an excellent appearance to the com- 
 pleted work. The panels to be imbedded into the 
 concrete may be molded with a smooth, glossy 
 surface, so to reflect light, by using glass slabs in 
 the bottom of mold for panels, thus producing a 
 very smooth surface to the molded panel. This 
 method is fully described in No. 5 of this series 
 on MOLDING AND CUBING ORNAMENTAL 
 CONCEETE. 
 
 In many residences where there is but little 
 
28 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 room for the bath tub, and without any possibility 
 of having a separate room for the purpose, the 
 style of tub shown in Fig. 6 will be of value, as it 
 can be equipped with a cover, which will also 
 serve as a table top in the kitchen or any room 
 in which the tub may be placed. This can be 
 easily removed when it is desired to use the tub. 
 The details of constructing the outside forms 
 for this style of bath tub is clearly shown in the 
 illustration, and permit of many changes to suit 
 the wishes of the worker. 
 
 MOLDING THE LEGS FOR BATH TUBS 
 
 The easiest method of molding the legs for a 
 concrete bath tub is shown in Fig. 7. This re- 
 quires that the outline of the legs be cut from a 
 board of the right width, and this is then spaced 
 the correct distance apart by tacking strips of tin 
 or sheet metal to the edges of the wood forms, 
 except at the point where the legs join onto the 
 tub and also at the top of form, or the point upon 
 legs that rest upon the floor, which is left open 
 for convenience in pouring the concrete. 
 
 The mold for the legs should be placed upon 
 the bottom of bath tub as soon as the bottom of 
 same is finished, so that the concrete will be firmly 
 bonded together. In event this is not done, the 
 point where the legs are placed should have the 
 aggregate exposed by scrubbing with a stiff brusli 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 
 
 29 
 
 FIG. 7. Molding legs to bath tubs. 
 
30 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 and water, so that the concrete placed for the legs 
 will be firmly bonded. 
 
 This permits the legs of tub to be placed at any 
 point the worker may desire. 
 
 The method of cutting the wood outline of the 
 legs is shown in Fig. 8, with several styles that 
 may be employed for this purpose with excellent 
 results. 
 
 The concrete bath tub, when molded in the rein- 
 forced type, is less in weight than a tub of marble, 
 and about the weight of those in solid porcelain. 
 The tub should be carefully water-proofed, and 
 may be finished with a water-proof enamel upon 
 both outside and inside surfaces, if desired. 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE LAVATORIES 
 
 The lavatory shown in Fig. 9 is easily and sim- 
 ply molded in concrete. The bowl is molded in a 
 square box form that has a moulding along tin 1 
 top edge, to produce the ornamented edge to same. 
 The mold for the bowl may be made of an earthen- 
 ware bowl or a small chopping-bowl of the right 
 size, or it may also be formed in plaster or con- 
 crete to the desired shape. Openings are molded 
 in the lavatory for the water supply pipes, to be 
 placed, by inserting iron or wood plugs of the 
 right size inside the mold at that point. These 
 are well greased, so that the concrete cannot bond 
 to same. 
 
 The bowl should also have metal strips molded 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATOKIUMS. 31 
 
 FIG. 8. Several styles of legs for bath tubs. 
 
32 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 so to project from the bottom of same. These are 
 bent at right angles, and enable the lavatory to 
 be fastened securely to the wall. The bowl is also 
 supported in front by legs molded of concrete, or 
 by employing metal legs for the purpose. 
 
 The slab at back of lavatory is the easiest 
 molded in a square box form, that is lined upon 
 three sides with wood moulding, so to produce 
 an ornamental edge to the slab. If the face of 
 slab is molded upon a sheet of glass, using a mix- 
 ture of marble flour, white sand and white Port- 
 land cement, it will be very smooth and glossy 
 and reflect light like polished marble. This may 
 have openings molded in same for placing any 
 water supply pipes, if so desired. The slab has 
 a small i/i-inch hole molded at each corner, into 
 which screws are placed for fastening the slab 
 against the wall. 
 
 This lavatory may also be molded with larger 
 legs, similar to those used for the laundry tub 
 shown in Fig. 10, and thus it may be placed in the 
 center of floor, instead of against the wall line. 
 
 An excellent style of lavatory may be molded 
 by placing the core form in the center of molding 
 board, around this a ring or circular form is 
 placed, constructed from sheet metal; this circle 
 should be at least 6 to 8 inches larger than the 
 greatest diameter of the lavatory bowl, and from 
 2y 2 to 3 inches in height. The concrete for bowl 
 is placed inside this ring and over the core form 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 
 
 33 
 
 FIG. 9. A lavatory that is easily molded in concrete. 
 
34 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 for molding the bowl, to a depth of not less than 
 2 inches; where this is above the ring of metal, 
 for outside form, the concrete can be molded with 
 the trowel to form the shape desired. A short sec- 
 tion of gas pipe is placed in the center of bowl, 
 at the top, thus molding the opening for waste 
 pipe. The pedestal to support the lavatory bowl 
 is molded by using a cylinder of sheet metal, the 
 exact size desired for the shaft, with a larger ring 
 of about 2 or 3 inches in height to mold the base 
 of pedestal. The shaft should be from 5 to 6 
 inches in diameter, and the base about 12 to 14 
 inches in diameter, and 2 or 3 inches high for a 
 lavatory bowl of 18 to 22 inches in diameter and 
 9 to 11 inches in height. The concrete is first 
 placed inside the mold for base of pedestal, and 
 then the metal cylindrical mold for stem is placed 
 upon same, and the concrete poured for stem or 
 shaft. A section of gas pipe must be placed inside 
 the shaft and base of pedestal, exactly in the cen- 
 ter, to be used as the waste pipe to lavatory. The 
 supply pipes may also be molded in the concrete, 
 by inserting the supply pipes inside the lavatory 
 bowl at the proper point; then if a %-inch supply 
 pipe is to be used, place a 1%-inch gas pipe, well 
 greased, inside the mold for pedestal at the proper 
 point for supply pipe. This permits the plumber 
 to connect the supply pipe to those in bowl. Then 
 place this inside the opening molded in pedestal. 
 and finish the connection at the bottom of pedes- 
 
AQUAEIUMS AND NATATOEIUMS. 35 
 
 tal after the bowl is placed upon top of pedestal. 
 The waste pipe may project above the pedestal 
 about % of an inch more than the thickness of 
 lavatory bowl at bottom, thus permitting the 
 plumber to place a nut upon same, which not only 
 makes the opening for waste pipe, but also holds 
 the lavatory bowl upon the pedestal. This nut 
 must be so placed that the top of same is flush 
 with the bottom of bowl, allowing for mortar 
 joint, so to permit the bowl to be absolutely 
 cleaned each time it is emptied. 
 
 This style of molding may be employed for 
 many different types of lavatories, as well as the 
 manner of connecting same to the waste and water 
 supply systems. The concrete lavatory is a most 
 profitable line for the worker, as it enters into 
 competition with other materials that command a 
 high price, hence the profit for the work would 
 be large. By using a good marble mixture for 
 your concrete, the work would be of a quality that 
 would enable it to successfully compete with any 
 other material. 
 
 This is as easily applied to many styles of 
 bowls for closets ; thus the type known as a plain 
 hopper or bowl is as easily molded as the bowl for 
 a lavatory. The syphon type of bowl may also 
 be perfected in concrete, using a slightly different 
 form than is usually employed ; in this the trap or 
 syphon is molded as a separate unit and upon this 
 the bowl is placed. 
 
36 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 A strong competitor to the porcelain kitchen 
 sink may also be molded in nearly the same man- 
 ner as employed for the lavatory bowl and apron, 
 illustrated in Fig. 9. The outside form is built 
 in the same manner as for a lavatory, with the 
 inside form or core in a square box shape, to 
 mold the inside surface of the sink. The molds 
 should be lined with sheet metal to give a smooth 
 molding surface, and also to protect the wood 
 against the moisture in the concrete. The slab 
 placed against the wall is molded in the same man- 
 ner as employed for the lavatory slab, illustratl 
 in Fig. 9. This must have openings molded in 
 same to place the bibbs and water supply pipo 
 for sink. The bottom of sink should have the 
 strainer or waste pipe opening molded in same, or 
 the strainer may be placed at the time the con- 
 crete is poured and is then ready for connecting 
 to waste pipe. 
 
 Lavatories, closet bowls or hoppers, as well as 
 kitchen sinks, should be reinforced with wire lath 
 or expanded metal lath, thus permitting the work 
 to be amply strong, but without excessive weight. 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE LAUNDRY TUBS 
 
 The style of laundry tub illustrated in Fig. 10, 
 is easily molded in concrete for either a two or 
 three part tub, as may be desired. This tub, when 
 carefully molded, is fully the equal of a composi- 
 tion laundry tub, and for the practical use to 
 
AQUAKIUMS AND NATATOEIUMS. 
 
 FIG. 10. Laundry tub or tray molded in concrete. 
 
MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 which it is to be applied, it would be a strong 
 rival of the porcelain tub, as the price would aid 
 in making it popular. 
 
 The entire length of the tub is 60 inches over 
 all ; the walls are made 2 inches in thickness, and 
 reinforced with wire lath or expanded metal lath. 
 Each compartment is 27x24 inches and 16 inches 
 deep, making the total height of the tub from the 
 floor, 3 feet 2 inches, with the legs 20 inches in 
 height, and the tub above same 18 inches high 
 upon the outside. The legs are molded 4 inches 
 thick, and in the manner illustrated, or any other 
 form the worker may desire. 
 
 The slab at the back is 12x60 inches and iy 2 
 inches thick. This is best when molded sepa- 
 rate from the tub and then attached to the wall 
 with screws, above the top of the compartments of 
 tub. Openings should be molded in the slab for 
 placing the bibbs and pipes for water supply, also 
 openings in the bottom of each compartment for 
 placing the waste pipe to tub. These may be ar- 
 ranged by inserting a short piece of gas pipe, pre- 
 viously well greased, into the green concrete at 
 the point the opening is desired. 
 
 This tub, in either the two or three compart- 
 ment styles, is molded in the manner shown in 
 Fig. 11. The cores are made of wood, covered 
 with sheet metal, in size equal to the inside dimen- 
 sions of each compartment of the tub. The core 
 is made convex on the top, so to mold the bottom 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATOBIUMS. 
 
 39 
 
 FIG. 11. Molding concrete laundry tub. 
 
40 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 of the tub in a concave form, which makes it far 
 more satisfactory, enabling the tub to be easily 
 emptied of all waste water. The convex part of 
 core is easily made by cutting two strips of wood 
 in that form and then covering with heavy sheet 
 metal, to form the molding surface. 
 
 The cores are inverted upon the molding board 
 at the proper distance apart, where they are held 
 by blocks nailed to the molding board, to prevent 
 the cores from slipping out of position when the 
 concrete is tamped or poured into the mold. The 
 back and front sides of outside mold are easily 
 made of straight boards as forms, with wood 
 mouldings along the edges to give a circular edge 
 to the tub, if that is desired. 
 
 The two ends of the tub are cut from lumber in 
 an exact outline of the form desired; these pro- 
 ject 20 inches above the form for main body of 
 tub, and an extra form for legs is spaced 4 inches 
 from the end form, so as to mold the legs of tub 
 at each end of same, 20x24 inches, and 4 inches 
 thick. A circle or any other shape may be cut in 
 the center of the molds for legs, and a sheet of 
 metal bent to fit into same, thus molding any 
 opening in the legs that the worker may desire. 
 This opening is of advantage when placing the 
 waste pipe, and also makes the complete tub 
 lighter in weight, with the legs amply strong for 
 the purpose. 
 
 The reinforcement is easily placed, as the tub 
 
AQUAEIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 41 
 
 is molded bottom side upward, and thus every 
 portion of same is within sight of the operator 
 when placing the concrete. 
 
 The wood parts of mold should be well pro- 
 tected against moisture, by coating with a good 
 oil compound, such as equal parts of petroleum 
 and linseed oil ; giving the wood two or three coats 
 before using the mold and then a light coating 
 each time before the mold is to be used. This not 
 only prevents the wood portions of mold from 
 warping and checking, but also prevents the con- 
 crete from adhering to the wood, caused by un- 
 protected wood absorbing the moisture from the 
 concrete and carrying with it particles of cement, 
 which penetrate the fibres of the wood and thus 
 bond the outside concrete to the wood molding 
 surface. This causes the surface of the cast to 
 scale or break off pieces when the molds are re- 
 moved. The oil coating prevents this trouble and 
 secures a good cast from wood molds, that have 
 been treated each time before using. 
 
 MOLDING A COMPLETE AQUARIUM 
 
 The style of aquarium shown in Fig. 12 is as 
 easily and simply molded as any square design in 
 concrete. This is best when molded with glass in- 
 serted into the sides of same, and if desired, also 
 in both ends of the aquarium. The top is orna- 
 mented by lining the edge of mold with stock wood 
 mouldings to perfect the outline desired. 
 
42 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 Flo. 12. Small concrete aquarium with glass sides. 
 
AQUAKIUMS AND NATATOBIUMS. 43 
 
 This aquarium is designed to be placed upon a 
 pedestal, hence is not constructed upon a large 
 scale, the size varying to suit the wishes of the 
 worker. 
 
 The details for this style of aquarium are 
 clearly shown in Fig. 13, also the manner of in- 
 serting the glass sides in same. The forms are 
 constructed of wood, in nearly the same manner 
 as if a panel was to be molded in the concrete 
 wall of cast. The edges of the glass are then 
 dipped in a cement composed of one part tallow 
 melted with two parts of rosin, the dipped portion 
 of the glass should be equal to the depth it is to 
 be imbedded in the concrete along each edge. The 
 concrete for the bottom of aquarium is placed, 
 and then the core is inserted inside the outside 
 forms, and to rest upon the concrete placed for 
 bottom of cast. 
 
 The sheets of glass are then slipped between the 
 two boards that mold the opening in sides, with 
 the edges of the glass projecting upon each side 
 of the panel boards, and also the bottom edge of 
 glass pressed into the concrete placed for bottom 
 of aquarium. Thus the glass is firmly imbedded 
 in the cement at all points. The mixture of rosin 
 and tallow makes an elastic putty, or cement, that 
 will permit the concrete to expand without break- 
 ing the water-tight joint. The putty must be ap- 
 plied hot, and as this is also applied to the point 
 where glass is imbedded in the concrete, the sides 
 
44 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 13 Manner of placing the glass in a concrete acquarium. 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 45 
 
 are sealed against the water escaping, in the same 
 manner as putty perfects a water-tight joint in 
 the ordinary window sash. 
 
 The walls of aquarium may be reinforced with 
 wire cloth of i/^-inch mesh, or expanded metal 
 lath, if the size of wall will permit its use. This 
 permits the thickness of wall to be from 1*4 
 to 2 inches in thickness, as may be demanded by 
 the size of the work to be molded. As shown in 
 Fig. 13, the core is built in sections. These are 
 held together with screws when molding the aqua- 
 rium; thus permitting the core to be taken apart 
 when removing from the complete cast, and les- 
 sening the danger of injuring the work, as would 
 be the case if the core was not divided in this 
 manner. 
 
 DESIGN FOR A LARGE CONCRETE AQUARIUM 
 
 At Fig. 14 is shown a simple and most excellent 
 design for a large concrete aquarium. As will be 
 noted from the illustration, there is ample space 
 underneath the tank to place the water supply 
 pipes. The bottom of tank is placed at the correct 
 height for its contents to be viewed easily, with 
 the bottom of tank about 8 inches in width, and 
 from that sloping upward in a gentle declivity to 
 the top. This compels the fish or other aquatic 
 inhabitants of the tank to stay close to the glass 
 side, where they may be the more easily viewed. 
 
 This style of aquarium is designed to stand 
 
46 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 FIG. 14. Sectional view of a large concrete aquarium. 
 
AQUAKIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 47 
 
 against the wall, thus making it practical for any 
 public structure. The ledge upon one side is eas- 
 ily molded by using wood mouldings inside the 
 mold at that point. The glass side may be in- 
 serted in the same manner as for the small aqua- 
 rium, which was illustrated in Fig. 13. 
 
 This aquarium may be built in sections, with 
 partition walls at equal distances apart, so to ac- 
 commodate many different species of fish, etc. 
 The vertical walls for the front and partitions of 
 the tank may be 2y 2 inches in thickness for a 
 small size of aquarium, and from this varying to 
 3 inches for larger sizes, when reinforced with 
 metal lath imbedded into the wall. The sloping 
 wall at back of tank should be from 3 to 4 inches 
 in thickness, and amply reinforced with expanded 
 metal lath. The floor of tank is molded from 4% 
 to 6 inches in thickness, depending upon the size 
 of the aquarium. The legs or walls supporting 
 the tank are best when molded 4y 2 to 5 inches in 
 thickness; the sloping wall at back should have 
 openings not only to admit the supply pipes, but 
 also to permit any one to enter same so to make 
 repairs to these pipes when it is needed. 
 
 CONCRETE AQUARIUMS FOR OUTSIDE USE 
 
 A method of constructing concrete aquariums 
 for outside use is shown in Fig. 15. These may 
 be either square or in any other form the worker 
 may desire, and by constructing in a series with 
 
48 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 FlO. 15. Method of arranging concrete aquariums. 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATOBIUMS. 49 
 
 each one slightly higher than those below, the 
 water can run from the upper tank to the lowest 
 in the series. This is of advantage for trout and 
 all fish demanding a constant supply of fresh 
 water, the series of tanks securing the advantage 
 of a brook with different species of fish in each 
 tank, and all filled from the one supply pipe. 
 
 The manner of molding these tanks is clearly 
 shown in the illustration, so that the worker 
 should have- no difficulty in perfecting same. By 
 arranging the tanks or aquariums upon a terrace, 
 with the top edge of each one even with the ground 
 line of lawn, the effect is very pleasing. 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE NATATORIUMS 
 
 The usual method of molding a concrete nata- 
 torium or swimming pool, with the method of 
 water-proofing same, is shown in Fig. 16. The 
 forms are constructed for the outside wall and 
 braced in position, the core form is then sus- 
 pended inside of the outside centering, by strips 
 across the top. The concrete for bottom of the 
 tank is first placed for about one-half of its thick- 
 ness, and the core forms set so to mold about one- 
 half of the outside wall, or that portion next to 
 the outside centering. 
 
 The core form is built in sections so to be the 
 more easily taken apart and removed from the 
 work, as well as to be adjustable to the two sec- 
 tions of wall built by this method. 
 
50 
 
 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 k-i .r /. " "" -. - v v 1 " ^ r .' " .- 
 ;>... ..-- .... :...-.... -,, 
 
 FIG. 16. Molding and water-proofing a concrete natatorium. 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATOBIUMS. 51 
 
 When the concrete has hardened enough to per- 
 mit, the core form is removed, and the inside of 
 the tank given a thick coat of asphalt, or even 
 hot tar, tarred felt, or some perfect water-proof- 
 ing material that will also act as a binder or ad- 
 hesive between the two layers of concrete. The 
 balance or second layer of the floor is then laid 
 upon this asphalt coating and the core erected to . 
 complete the wall to the desired thickness, the 
 concrete being placed for same as soon as the 
 asphalt coating is in place. 
 
 This method places an absolute water-proof 
 layer of material between the two sections of wall 
 and floor, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 16. 
 By having it nearly in the center of wall each 
 layer of concrete is thick enough to stand the 
 loading without cracking, even if the bond between 
 layers is not perfect. 
 
 The concrete pool or tank should be sloping 
 with the greatest width at the top, so that in 
 event of the water in same freezing at any time, 
 the pressure would be far less than if the sides 
 were vertical. 
 
 The outside wall should have a footing of suffi- 
 cient width to support the wall. This must rest 
 upon solid ground or a foundation wall that is 
 amply strong enough for the load, so that there 
 is no possible danger of the wall settling and thus 
 causing the concrete to crack and injure the use- 
 fulness of the work. Where there is any danger 
 
52 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 from this cause, or in large pools of this kind, the 
 work should have ample reinforcement by tying 
 expanded metal or wire lath to steel rods or bars 
 spaced at the proper distance apart to take all 
 the strain. 
 
 The concrete for the foundation may be mixed 
 1:3:6, using sharp sand, running from coarse to 
 fine, and gravel not to exceed 2 inches in diameter, 
 where the foundation walls are placed in a trench 
 and below ground. This is covered with a 6-inch 
 course of 1:2:4 mixture, well tamped, at the 
 ground line. The body of the large pool may be 
 built of well graded aggregates in the proportions 
 of 1:2:4, using gravel or broken stone as the 
 large aggregate. This is plastered upon the in- 
 side with a coating of one part Portland cement 
 to two parts of clean, sharp sand. The concrete 
 must be mixed wet and well tamped or forced into 
 place, so to reduce the amount of voids, allowing 
 the forms to remain about two to three days, so 
 to permit the concrete to harden before removing 
 to apply the plaster coat. 
 
 Openings for inlet and outlet are made by in- 
 serting short sections of iron pipe in the concrete, 
 or by using a tapering wood plug or form for 
 opening. These should be well greased, so to 
 prevent the concrete from adhering to same. 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 53 
 
 WATER-PROOF CONCRETE 
 
 Concrete that is made properly, so to secure the 
 maximum density, is practically impervious to 
 water with a low pressure. In this regard the 
 proper proportioning of the materials, grading 
 the aggregates so to leave the least percentage of 
 voids, care and thoroughness in mixing, and the 
 use of water in a quanity ample to thoroughly wet 
 the mixture, are of the greatest importance in 
 securing a dense and water-proof concrete. It is 
 also of importance that the concrete should be a 
 rich mix, where the work will permit, and if this 
 is not possible, as upon large tanks, the inside 
 surface should be plastered with a rich mixture. 
 
 A rich mixture of concrete where subjected to 
 a low water pressure is usually impermeable, and 
 this increases with the age of the work. 
 
 Where the joints occur in the work, special care 
 should be given to the water-proofing, so that 
 water-tightness may be assured. 
 
 The water pressure against the surface of the 
 concrete, must be considered in estimating the 
 necessary water-proofing treatment. This is usu- 
 ally from 15 pounds to 156 pounds per square foot 
 of wall surface, and with a lifting pressure under 
 a floor of 31 pounds to 312 pounds per square foot, 
 for a hydrostatic head of 6 inches to 5 feet; for 
 a head up to 10 feet, the pressure against the 
 wall per square foot will be up to 312 pounds, and 
 
54 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 under a floor this will be doubled, or 624 pounds 
 to the square foot. With a head of 15 feet, the 
 wall pressure will be 468 pounds against each 
 square foot of the wall surface; 20 feet gives a 
 wall pressure of 625 pounds ; 25 feet a pressure 
 of 781 pounds to the square foot of wall surface. 
 With a hydrostatic head of 30 feet, the pressure 
 against the wall will be 937 pounds ; above 30 feet 
 in hydrostatic head the average pressure is easily 
 estimated by multiplying the pressure at 20 feet, 
 or 625 pounds, by the number of times 20 feet is 
 contained in the estimated hydrostatic head. The 
 lifting or pressure under a floor surface is usually 
 estimated at double the water pressure against <i 
 vertical wall. 
 
 VARIOUS METHODS OF WATER-PROOFING 
 
 Among the oldest methods of surface treatment 
 processes for water-proofing concrete, the Syl- 
 vester process has been the most universally em- 
 ployed. This required the application of alter- 
 nate coatings of soap and alum solutions, applied 
 hot. The castile soap is dissolved in hot water, 
 using three-quarters of one pound to each gallon 
 of water. This is spread over the surface with a 
 brush. About 24 hours later, a solution of 8 
 ounces of powdered alum to each four gallons of 
 water is applied over the soap coating. These 
 alternate coatings are repeated at intervals of 
 24 hours apart, usually about four coats of both 
 
AQUAKIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 55 
 
 the soap and alum solutions is demanded to se- 
 cure the desired result. 
 
 Another method of employing this process is to 
 add one pound of the powdered alum to each sack 
 of cement used, and mixing with the water used 
 for the concrete one per cent, of ordinary soft 
 soap. 
 
 To tanks, boiled linseed oil, applied in successive 
 coatings, has also been successful, as well as the 
 application of tar and asphalt. A wash or coat- 
 ing of one part green vitriol in three to four parts 
 of water has also secured success in water-proof- 
 ing many small articles, where the surface was of 
 no great area. 
 
 The use of hydrated lime is of value when 10% 
 to 25% has been added to the concrete mixture. 
 This, by its exceptional fineness, fills the voids in 
 the work that would otherwise be open for the 
 passage of moisture. 
 
 A wash of Portland cement and hydrated lime, 
 mixed one part lime, by weight, to two parts of 
 Portland cement, and applied to the wall surface 
 with a brush, has been very effective in water- 
 proofing the concrete where the water pressure 
 was not too great. This wash or coating will be 
 far more effective and spread easier, filling the 
 pores and defects in the work and making a 
 smoother surface, if 2 ounces of powdered alum 
 has been added to each gallon of the brush coat. 
 
 A number of the water-proofing and stone finish 
 
56 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 compounds now in use are made up of hydrated 
 lime and Portland cement as the base of the com- 
 pound. The success of these finishes proves the 
 value of the lime and cement brush coat as a 
 water-proofing coating, when thoroughly and care- 
 fully applied. 
 
 The use of paraffin as a water-proofing ma- 
 terial has met with good success, and for small 
 articles the process would be of use and value. 
 There are various methods of applying the 
 paraffin to the concrete, either by keeping it in a 
 melted state, which may be done by subjecting 
 the vessel holding same to a gentle heat while 
 the coating is placed over the surface with a 
 brush, or by cutting the paraffin into very small 
 pieces and placing in gasoline or any quickly 
 evaporated or volatilized fluid and then applying 
 this to the surface; as soon as the gasoline has 
 evaporated, so it is safe to do so, a torch can be 
 used for heating the concrete surface and thus 
 causing the paraffin to penetrate the pores of the 
 concrete, where it immediately hardens and com- 
 pletely fills the openings, thus preventing the pas- 
 sage of water. 
 
 Another method is to heat the concrete sur- 
 face with the torch, before applying the paraffin, 
 and then going over the work again with the torch 
 to complete the process. This has an advantage 
 in the fact that the paraffin will remain in a 
 liquid or melted state longer than where the wall 
 
AQUAKIUMS AND NATATOKIUMS. 57 
 
 has been subjected to the heat but once, thus en- 
 abling it to penetrate to a greater depth below 
 the concrete surface and increase the value of the 
 protective and water-proof coating. 
 
 The use of sodium silicate (water glass) in the 
 proportion of one part to three parts of water 
 and this applied to the concrete surface, has given 
 excellent results. This is a very cheap method 
 of water-proofing, as the usual cost of the water 
 glass is from one to two cents a pound, depending 
 upon the quantity purchased. This readily mixes 
 with water, thinning the sodium silicate so to the 
 more readily enter the pores of the concrete. 
 
 Several applications should be made, so to fill 
 the pores of the work. This will result in a por- 
 tion of the material remaining upon the surface, 
 and may be flushed off with water, or, better yet, 
 sprayed with chloride of calcium (chloride of 
 lime), which forms a chemical reaction when in 
 contact with the water glass, hardening the sur- 
 face of the concrete and making a surface imper- 
 vious to moisture. While the application of the 
 chloride of lime will lighten the surface of the 
 concrete, yet it supplies the necessary lime to 
 harden the sodium silicate and form an insoluble 
 coating upon the concrete surface. Where the 
 chloride of lime solution is not applied, the water 
 glass that is flushed to the surface of the concrete 
 is washed off with water, leaving only the sodium 
 silicate solution that has penetrated the pores, 
 
58 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 and from contact with the lime and alkalies in the 
 concrete, has hardened into an insoluble coating 
 that will render the concrete impervious to water. 
 
 Small articles may be immersed in the sodium 
 silicate bath, and by remaining in same from 12 
 to 24 hours, will absorb more of the solution than 
 if it is applied as a surface treatment, producing 
 more satisfactory results. 
 
 In using any water-proofing material, it must 
 be remembered that the porosity of the concrete 
 must determine the success or failure of the 
 water-proofing material. Thus, a lean mixture of 
 concrete with poorly graded aggregates and indif- 
 ferent care in the mixing and placing, will pro- 
 duce a greater percentage of voids in the work. 
 This demands more material, labor and care to 
 water-proof effectively than if the concrete is of 
 the maximum density. It will thus be seen that 
 the water-proofing problem must be judged in ac- 
 cordance with the condition of the wall, and that a 
 treatment that was effective on a perfect wall 
 would be a failure when applied in the same man- 
 ner to a far more porous surface. The one safe 
 and effective rule for a water-proof surface is to 
 produce the maximum density to the concrete. 
 The use of a rich and wet mixture with clean and 
 properly graded aggregates will go far towards 
 the purpose desired. 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 59 
 
 PATENT COMPOUNDS FOR WATER-PROOFING 
 
 A brief mention of the various special com- 
 pounds on the market may interest the reader. 
 While it would not be within my province to ad- 
 vise the use of any one compound instead of an- 
 other, yet the brief description given may enable 
 the reader to decide upon the one most suitable 
 to his needs. 
 
 Among the products intended to be incorpo- 
 rated with the concrete we have a number in pow- 
 der form, thus ANHYDEA is a white powder re- 
 sembling talcum powder, and is added to the neat 
 cement in the proportion of about two per cent., 
 by weight, to the weight of the cement used, or 
 2 pounds to the sack. 
 
 There are a number of brands of hydrated lime 
 placed upon the market under different trade 
 names, and which demand that from 10 to 25 per 
 cent., by weight, be incorporated with the cement 
 used. 
 
 In the dry powder form we have HYDEA- 
 TITE, which is mixed with the dry cement in the 
 proportion of about 2 pounds to the sack of ce- 
 ment, and then the damp sand added to same. 
 The IDEAL WATEE-PEOOF FILLEE is also 
 mixed with the dry cement in proportions of 1 to 
 2 pounds to each sack of cement. MEDUSA 
 WATEE-PEOOF COMPOUND is another pow- 
 der form of water-proofing compound, and is usu- 
 
60 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 ally mixed with the dry cement in a proportion of 
 1 to 2 pounds to each sack of cement used. TOX- 
 EMENT is said to be effective when mixed 2 
 pounds to the sack of cement, while dry. 
 
 AQUABAR is a paste-like solution, which is 
 placed in the water employed for mixing the con- 
 crete, using one part of the compound to twenty- 
 four parts water. 
 
 The compound sold under the trade name of 
 ANTI-HYDRO is mixed in the proportions of one 
 part of the solution to ten parts of water, used in 
 mixing the cement. This is largely used in plas- 
 ter coatings, applying a coating of neat cement; 
 a scratch coat, % of an inch thick, mixed 1 :2, and 
 a finish coat % of an inch thick, mixed 1 :1, using 
 the compound in the water employed for mixing 
 the mortar. 
 
 Another dry powder compound is sold as 
 "TRUS-CON" WATER-PROOFING FILLER, 
 and is mixed with the cement while in a dry state, 
 in the proportion of 2 pounds to the sack. This 
 is often employed in plaster coatings as well. 
 
 Among the compounds employed for the sur- 
 face treatment of concrete, ANTIHYDRINE is 
 described as a high grade of asphalt in combina- 
 tion with other chemicals that forms a glossy and 
 impervious coating over the concrete surface, 
 when applied with a brush, each gallon covering 
 about 100 square feet. 
 
 CEMELINE is a liquid water-proofing mate- 
 
AQUARIUMS AND NATATORIUMS. 61 
 
 rial that is supplied in various colors and is em- 
 ployed with CEALTITE as a filler or putty-like 
 composition for sealing the joints and cracks in 
 the wall. 
 
 The DEHYDEATINE DAMP-BE SIS TING 
 COMPOUNDS are heavy black liquids that are 
 applied cold, with a brush, with a covering capac- 
 ity of 50 to 80 square feet to the gallon. DIA- 
 MOND WATEE-PEOOFING is a mineral solu- 
 tion that is claimed for it to be insoluble in water 
 and without containing any grease, oil or paraf- 
 fin. It is applied with a brush, like ordinary 
 paint. 
 
 IEONITE is another mineral compound in the 
 form of a fine powder, which is mixed with water 
 to the consistency of a brush coat. When first 
 applied, the color is black, but in time this changes 
 to a brown shade. This is claimed to effectively 
 resist water pressure. LIQUID KONKEEIT is 
 also spread like paint, as well as TE-PE-CO., the 
 latter having a covering capacity of 85 to 125 
 square feet to the gallon. 
 
 While there are a number of other compounds 
 for which perfect results are claimed when ap- 
 plied to the concrete surface, yet in the main, any 
 water-proofing mixture must largely depend upon 
 the density of the concrete for its success, as 
 where the pores or voids are larger than will per- 
 mit the filler or compound to perfectly close same, 
 effective water-proofing cannot be expected, thus 
 
62 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 bringing the worker back to the fact that unless 
 the concrete has been properly made, or at least 
 protected by a rich and dense plaster coating, im- 
 permeability cannot be secured with certain 
 success. 
 
INDEX 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Advantages of a wet mix of concrete 13, 14 
 
 Advantages of the square style of bath tub 28 
 
 Aquarium, how molded 41_49 
 
 Aquarium for outside use 47_49 
 
 Assembling a concrete lavatory 34, 35 
 
 Asphalt as a water-proofing material 51 
 
 Bath tub molds, construction of 16_18 
 
 Bonding sections of bath tubs 28.30 
 
 Brush coat of neat cement and lime, use of 55 
 
 Cement for aquariums 43 
 
 Chloride of calcium, how used 57 
 
 Closet bowls molded in concrete 35 
 
 Coating core mold to prevent sticking 16 
 
 Concrete for natatoriums 52 
 
 Core for bath tubs, construction of 14_16 
 
 Cores for laundry tubs 38_40 
 
 Density, how secured without pressure 13 
 
 Design for a large concrete aquarium 45, 46 
 
 Details of molding laundry tub 38 
 
 Forms for molding bath tub legs 30, 31 
 
 Hydrated lime, used for water-proofing 55 
 
 Inserting glass in concrete aquariums 43 
 
 Kitchen sinks, molded in concrete 36 
 
 Laundry tubs of concrete 36_41 
 
 Lavatories, how molded 30_36 
 
 Legs to bath tubs, how molded ' . " 28.30 
 
 Legs to laundry tubs, how molded 40 
 
 Lime In concrete, how used .','.'.'. 13.55.59 
 
 Linseed oil as a water-proofing compound 55 
 
 63 
 
64 MOLDING CONCRETE BATH TUBS, 
 
 Marble concrete for lavatory and bath tub 32 
 
 Metal strips, to fasten lavatory to wall 32 
 
 Mix of concrete for bath tub and aquarium 13, 14 
 
 Molding a concrete bath tub 18 
 
 Molding a concrete lavatory 30-30 
 
 Molding concrete kitchen sinks 36 
 
 Molding concrete laundry tubs or trays 38_40 
 
 Natatoriuins, how molded 49-52 
 
 Oil compound for coating wood molds 41 
 
 Ormunental sides to bath tubs, how molded 19.21 
 
 Panels for ornamental bath tub 27 
 
 Paraffin, use in water-proofing concrete 56 
 
 Patent compounds for water-proofing 59.62 
 
 Pedestal lavatory, how molded 32.35 
 
 Plaster mold for rim of bath tub 21 
 
 Plaster system of molding bath tubs 25 
 
 Reinforcement, when necessary 14 
 
 Reinforcement of bath tubs 19 
 
 Rim of bath tub, how molded 21.23 
 
 Sand, grade used for securing water-proof concrete.... 14 
 
 Sodium silicate, how used 57 
 
 Square style of bath tub, how molded 27, 28 
 
 Supply pipes, how placed in lavatory 30.34 
 
 Swimming pools, how molded 49.52 
 
 Sylvester process of water-proofing 54, 55 
 
 Test of sand for loam or clay 14 
 
 Thickness of walls, of bath tubs 19 
 
 Vitriol wash for water-proofing 55 
 
 Water pressure against walls and floor 53 
 
 Warping of wood molds, how prevented 41 
 
 Water-proofing a concrete natatorium 51 
 
 Water-proofing concrete 53.61! 
 
 \Vood mold for rim of bath tub 23 
 
 Wood molds, how protected from moisture 41 
 
CATALOGUE OF 
 STANDARD 
 PRACTICAL AND 
 SCIENTIFIC 
 BOOKS 
 
 PUBLISHED AND FOR SALE BY 
 
 The Norman W, Henley Publishing Go, 
 
 132 Nassau St., New York, U. S. A. 
 
INDEX OF SUBJECTS 
 
 Brazing and Soldering 3 
 
 Cams n 
 
 Charts 3 
 
 Chemistry 4 
 
 Civil Engineering 
 
 Coke 4 
 
 Compressed Air 4 
 
 Concrete 5 
 
 Dictionaries 5 
 
 Dies Metal Work 6 
 
 Drawing Sketching Paper 6 
 
 Electricity 7 
 
 Enameling 9 
 
 Factory Management, etc 9 
 
 Fuel 10 
 
 Gas Engines and Gas 10 
 
 Gearing and Cams n 
 
 Hydraulics n 
 
 Ice and Refrigeration n 
 
 Inventions Patents 12 
 
 Lathe Practice 12 
 
 Liquid Air 12 
 
 Locomotive Engineering 12 
 
 Machine Shop Practice 14 
 
 Manual Training 17 
 
 Marine Engineering 17 
 
 Metal Work-Dies 6 
 
 Mining 17 
 
 Miscellaneous 18 
 
 Patents and Inventions 12 
 
 Pattern Making 18 
 
 Perfumery 18 
 
 Plumbing 19 
 
 Receipt Book. ... 24 
 
 Refrigeration and Ice u 
 
 Rubber 19 
 
 Saws 20 
 
 Screw Cutting 20 
 
 Sheet Metal Work 20 
 
 Soldering 3 
 
 Steam Engineering 20 
 
 Steam Heating and Ventilation 22 
 
 Steam Pipes 22 
 
 Steel 22 
 
 Watch Making 23 
 
 Wireless Telephones 23 
 
 Any of these books will be sent prepaid to any part of 
 f the world, on receipt of price. 
 
 REMIT by Draft. Postal Money Order, Express Money Order 
 or by Registered Mail. 
 
THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
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 WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN 
 THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY 
 WILL INCREASE TO SO CENTS ON THE FOURTH 
 DAY AND TO $1.OO ON THE SEVENTH DAY 
 OVERDUE. 
 
 Z- 
 
 1935 
 
 
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 30JuP5fiBB 
 
 mi 2 
 
 30Mr'59CB 
 
 Lp 
 
 1959 
 
 Due end of SPRING Quart* 
 
 -CiihiftH- fr* rorail aftQf -* 
 
 API 
 
 RETURNED TO 
 
 IUN - 6 1971 
 
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 -100m-8,'34 
 

 A 
 
 221002 
 
 
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