^ 5MEUNIVER5//, ^lOSANCElfj^. ^.OFCAllFOftj^ ^OFCALI >&AavaaiH^ ^omm 1! cwniw iVER% ^lOSANt o J' lOSANC '^/5a3AIN ^jJO> ARYGc. ^MIBRA ^d/OJIT '^. s^ 'Q, ■A^OFCAlll ^^AHV)' oslOSAN( %H1 Al' .^WE■UNIVER5'//:. ^J^ ^•IIBRAW^,. j.oF-rAiiFo;?^/. .^WEUNIVERi-// 'J:?]33n¥S01^''" ■Jj'i]3NV-S01-^" zp y -^vM-LIBRARY/jy § 1 \' .^AT■!IP,f?ARYac "^(i/OJIWOJO^ ^«!/L a 2 <: .^\^FnMIVER.V/>. . 4 L'ut'iisKd, Jaii.i.2Si/j .lo.Xamej' Otmdieijiliien I'n: THE fu\jenile 'Counst: OK, EXCURSIONS THROUGH VARIOUS PARTS OF THE ISLAND OF GREAT-BRITAIN ; INCLUDING THE WEST OF ENGLAND, MIDLAND COUNTIES, AND THE WHOLE COUNTY OF KENT; ILLUSTRATED WITH MAPS, And interspersed with Historical Anecdotes and Poetical Extracts ; FOR THE IMPROVEMENT OF THE RISING GENERATION. IN A SERIES OF LETTERS TO A PUPIL. 91 Il3e\t3 euition, BEING xriE Tiiinc, WITH ADDITIONS AND IMPROVEMENTS. Including a?i original Account of THE ROYAL OBSERVATORY AT GREENWICH, AND AN OUTLINE OF THE POPVLOUS (TILLAGE OF ISLINGTON^. WITH VIEWS OF COPENHAGEN HOUSE AND HORNSET WOOD. By JOHN EVANS, A. M. Jtla^tcr of a Seminary for a limited Number of Pupils, PuUiDl-Row, Islington. A fairer Isle than Britain never Sun "\''iew'd in his wide career! a lovely spot For all that life can ask ! and, to ciown the whole, In one delightful word, it is our HOME— Our NATIVE ISLE ! COTTLE. ALBION PRESS: ' ?RINTED FOR JAMES CONDEE, IVY-LANS, rATERNOSTEU-ROV/, LONLON. 1809. [ PRICE SIX SHILLINGS BOUND. J StacK Anneix TO JOHN COOPE, Esq. WANSTEAD; WHOSE ATTENTieN TO THE IMPROVEMENT AND HAPPINESS OP HIS OWN LITTLE DOMESTIC CIRCLEj SHEWS THE IMPORTANCE WHICH HE ATTACHES TO EVERY EFFORT, HOWEVI.R SMAH, WHICH HAS FOR ITS OBJECT THE INTELLECTUAL AND MORAL WELFARE OS THE RISING GENERATION ; THIS THIRD EDITION OF THE PRESENT WORK, Wim VARIOUS CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS, IS MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, BT THE AVTIiOn. htington, Sep. 10, 1309. PREFACE. 1 relieve the anxieties of a laborious pro- fession, the Author has been in the habit of spending his summer vacations in the eoun- try. Hence arose the following excur- sions, when he took an opportunity of vi- siting some pleasant parts of this highly favoured island. Upon his return he com- mitted to paper, in the form of Letters, an account of what he had seen, together with the observations which occurred to his mind. The whole was inserted in a series of the numbers of the Monthly Visitor. Their flat- tering reception among his friends, induced the writer to amuse himself by revising the several Letters^ and publishing them in the present separate fornj, with considerable alterations and improvements. The volume therefore might have been liierally denomi- nated Vacation^ or Alidsummer Fruits; but the quaintness of such a Title forbade its adoption. The ignorance which young people, of both sexes, too often betray, respecting their own country, has been the reason for .1 PREFACE. devoting these pages, in a more peculia.- manner, by means of Historical Anecdotes and Poetical Extracts, to the instruction of the Rising generation. This circumstance must also apologise, in the eye of candour, for the introduction of some things which might be thought trivial, were they not deem- ed subservient to youthful improvement. The writer, indeed, must be permitted to add, that he has found such a mode of teaching Geography, peculiarly advantage- ous in his own seminary. Such is the origin — and such the humble pretensions, of the Juvenile Tourist. Having been composed with care, and re- vised at leisure, the Author trusts it will be found neither an unuseful nor an unenter- taining sequel to his Geography, Mhich has been introduced into schools of respec- tability. Indeed this work may be esteemed an amplification of the tltird part 'of that liltle Treatise which is appropriated to a de- scription of Great-Britain : " A |Tt'ci<)iis Stone, set in the silver sea !" The Maps having been engraven ex- pres.slij ioi these Excursions, and containing the name of every town which the Author visited in his route, will, l;e hopes, prove an PREFACE. Vll useful as well as pleasing embellishment to the work May this attempt, (with what- ever imperfections it may be attended) to point out the natural, civil, and religious advantages of his beloved country, fan the hallowed flame of patriotism, of virtue, and of Christianity! The sale of near Jive thousand copies of the Juvenile Tourist, is a proof of its favourable reception with the Public. Nor can the Author refrain from gratefully ac- knowledging the candour and attention with which it has been honoured. He has now carefully revised every page *of the work, and hopes that the additions and im- provements may render it still further sub- servient to the entertainment of the Risin*^ o Generation. The Author cannot close this Preface, without noticing a circumstance deserving of severe animadversion. In 1806, tivo volumes were published, entitled. An E.v- cursion from London to Dover, particu- larly intended for the amusement and in- struction of youthy by Jane Gardiiitr, Elsham Hall, Lincolnshire. Looking over this work, which accidentally fell into his hands, he to his surpriije found the greatest Vlll PREFACE. part, both of the prose and poetry, taken out of the Juvenile Tourist, without any kind of acknowledgment. Scarcely a pros- pect presents itself, nor is a town entered, between London and Dover, but what is transcribed from the present Work. And to prevent detection, a Mr. A , who is denominated her reverend and intelligent friend, is said to have penned down these passages on a portable desk in the chaise, whilst ti)e name of Evans is introduced- among many other names, as having fur- nished only three articles of Biography, and one piece of Poetry — whereas this Excursion commences, continues, and closes, with pa- ragraphs from the Juvenile Tourist, with- out even mentioning that any such work had been published. Was there ever any thing more ungenerous or unjust? The Proprietor of the Juvenile Tourist has been advised to prosecute, and no doubt can be entertained of damages being award- cd hill), The Author, however, has in the mean time thought proper thus to lay this j)hiin statement before the public — leaving Mrs. Jane Gardiner, of Elsham Hall, to the consideration of the eighth comiiiand- nient, and to her own reflections. PREFACE. r£ One ludicrous circumstance has attended these plagiarisms : in giving an account of the house of a Dissenting Minister, the Rev. S. K~- — ^d of Sturry, this Lady has, by calling his mansion the parsonage ^^trans- fornied him into the vicar or rector of the parish ! This worthy gentleman should, along with the title, have received the emoluments of his new situation ; for, alas ! the mere name is unaccompanied with any substantial benefit; and in these limes dignified appella- tions require additional incomes, to preserve an appropriate rank and station in society* Islington, Sep. 10, 1809. INDEX. Page \\ Page ABBEY of Glastonbury 113 |l Bel font - 14 Address to Jefferies - 90 Beresford Hall - 216 Ad vantages of the Re vo- Birmingham - 237 iution - 57 Blackheath - - 341 Affection, strength of - 344 Blake, Admiral - - 105 Albans, St. account of - 132 Bland lord - - 2i? Alfred, character of - 118 Boughton Hill - 37i Alfreton - 194 Bow, History of the - 350 Allen, Ralph, Esq. - 300 Brentford - G Ampthill - 162 Bridgewater - 104 Andover - 20 Bridport - 26 Anecdote of William til. 63 Bristol, City of - - 284 Apparitions - 274 Broadstairs - 400 Arkwright, Sir Richai 1 196 Brompton - - - 364 Arthur's round Table - 137 Broomsgrove - i49 Artificial Fly - 219 Buckland - - 412 Ashb_y-de-la-Zouch - 9.36 Burke, Edmund, the Ashford - 431 Death of - - 317 Athelney, retreat of Al- Buxton - 208 fred - 106 Byng, G. Esq. Seat of - 152 Aunt, Maiden - 289 Austin's^ St. Abbey - 587 Cacrleon - m Ca erwent - 280 Bacon, Lord - 153 Cal ne - 305 Bngshot - 17 Canterbury, account o f 374 Bakewell - , - 205 Cathedral of Canterbu ry 381 Balloons - 421 Cathedral of Exeter - 70 Banks, Sir Joseph - 10 Century, Close of - 321 Baptist Education So- Ciiaracter of Jelierics - 86 ciety • 286 Charles I. rearing his Barson, rural situation - 411 Standard - - 232 Basingstoke - 17 Charles II. Flight of - 252 Bath, city of - 296 Charmouth - - 27 Battersea - 5 Chatham and Dock Yard 359 Battle of Worcester - 2.51 Chaucer's Canterbury Beaconsfield - 316 Tales - 383 Beattie— -Young - - 171 Cliatsworth House - 202 Bedford, Duke of - 1.59 Chatterton, Death of - 292 INDEX. Chelsea Hospital - 3 Clielteiiliam - - ?57 Chevening House - 439 Chipping Barnet - - 152 Cliipstcad Place - - 441 Cliiswick . - - 6 Churchill the Poet's Grave ... 4.03 Cinque Ports - - 4i;9 Clifton - - - 292 Colston's School - - 286 Convicts at Woolwich - Si3 Cooke, T. Esq. - - 345 CoHper, anecdote of - 159 , his Character - 1G4 Cox, Dr. J, . . - 289 Craubrook - - 434 s -, New Meeting 485 Craiimer, Archbishop - -146 Cromwell, Oliver - 79 CuiTiberland Cavern - 199 Dandt'lion - - - 397 Dartford - - - 351 Darwin, Dr. Interview with - - - 225 Deal - - . . 403 Deity, proofs of - - 76 Deptford ... 3S6 Derby ... 224 Devil's Cave - - 21 2 Diocese of Canterbury 385 Doddridge, Dr. - '- lf>8 , Judge - 11 Dorchester * - - Q3 Dove Dale - - - 221 Dover and C:istle, ac- countof ... 41l; Heights - • 4Vrt Downs, Malborongli - S(>6 Drake, Sir Francis - Sv;7 Druitwich ... 5J49 Duke of Monmouth - 8.'> J^uDbtable - - - 157 Duustan, St, - - 378 Duns Scotus - - 20 Durham Duvtas . • :i^92 Eddington Battle - 117 Egham - - - 16 Epitaph beautiful - 288 on Dr. Dod- dridge ... 168 Erith - . - - 351 Eton and its College - 311 Evans, Hugh, Rev. - 287 , Dr. Caleb - 287 Execution at Lyme - 26 Exctcf, description of - 67 Farics - - - 275 Falkland, death of - 3(>7 Favershani, town of - S69 Finchley Common - 151 Fine Morning - - 149 Fishing House, Cotton's 217 Fish Ponds - - 289 Flam!^tead House - 33% Folkitone - - - 428 FonthiU - - - 134 Fordwich - - - 393 Fordyce on the Sea - 47 , .Tames, Rev. death of - - - 302 Forge, Iron - - 27« Fotheriighay Castle - 175 Franklin, Dr. anecdote of - - - - 43« Fredville - - - 4(»8 Frcme, account of - 1^1 Fulham ... 144 GadshiU - - - 355 Gale, Dr. John - - 3«9 Gaol broke loose • - 449 Garnett, Dr. - - ii09 General Election, reflec- tons on - - - 451 George Wiche, death of - - - - 102 Giles, St. Chalfont - 319 Gillingham - - 366 Glastonbury - • 113 Gloucester, city of - 255 Gravesend ... 3.53 INDEX. Fage Cray tlie poet, bis grave 314 Greenwich and its Hos- pital ... 3^9 Grey Coats of Kent - 436 CJunpowder, history of- 369 Haddon Ilall - - 206 Ilagley, seat of Lord LMtleton - - i>5.3 Ilalley the Astronomer 344 Haniinersniitli - . g Hardwickc, earl of -417 Hare, Bishop - - 319 Harris, James, Esq. his monument - - l!z8 Harris, Dr. William - 77 Harrow on the Hill - 320 Haslar Hospital - 139 Hearne Bay - . 391 Herschel's Telescope . 315 Hi-rvey, Rev. j\Ir. . nO Hill of Oysters . .310 Hoadley, Bishop . -J JO Holland House . . 3 Holt, Judge,his integrity 309 Holy Thorn . .11.^ lloiiiion . . .76 Hood, Robin, and Little John . . . 233 Hops, history of . . 387 Hotwells at Bristol . V90 Hounslow and its Heath 11 Hythe , . . 4'ii9 Isle of Wight . .139 Islington, account of . 4t2 James TI. detained at Favershani . . 371 J:mies, Lady's Folly ,3t8 Japan iManufactory . 274 Jefferies, Judge, his cruellies . . 86 Jenner, Dr. Edward . W8 Jew^ a rich; anecdote of 284 Jew converted John the Painter Jury, singular Pope . 48;> . 138 . 71 Keddleston . . 2S3 KelJaway, Capt. deliver- ance of . . .331 Kempenfclt, Admiral 139 Kensington ... 2 Kent, county of . . 325 Keppel, Admiral . 319 Kewj the new palace . 143 Kingsgate . . . 398 Kirke, Colonel, his cruel- ties . . . .86 Knightsbridge . . 2 Kno.\, Vicesiraus, Dr. . 439 Ladder, Jacob's . . 402 Lady Lisle . . . 88 Lauding of Charles fl 422 Julius Cffisar 405 Landsdown monument S99 Laud, Archbishop, cha- racter of . . 309 Leicester, sketch of .180 Life of Jefferies . . 92 Longevity, instances of 412 Longley, J. Esq. . 361 Loughborough . . 193 Lovell on Stouehenge 124 Lowth, Bishop' . . 13-'> Lyme . . . ii9 Magna Charta . .16 Maidcnliead . . 310 Maidstone,Town of . 4^13 Man of Ross . 252 Margate, account of 39.5 Market Harborough . J 74 jMarlborough . . 305 IMary's Abbey, St- ruins of ... 191 jAIaskelyne, Dr. . 331 Mason/ Mrs. . 245 INDEX. >r»tlock . . 197 Mechanical Theatre . 145 Medals of tlic Revolution 60 Mereworlli House . 44.' Military Academy, royal 3 4'2 Milton's letreal from the plague Milton, Town of ftlonks, meeting of Monmouth . . Morden College ^Iorri.% Valentine, anec- dotes of Mortuary chests Mount Sorrel Murder, dreadful ilurrel's Green Nast-by Field Na'^li, Beau Ntwbury New Passage TSewport, Monmouth- shire Newport Pagnell Newton, J. Ker. North?, mjiton North Foreland Nottingham S19 443 305 ^1 345 282 i:»7 IPS 184 , 17 176 'J98 St)7 283 161 288 163 40(» 229 OkelyHole . .116 OldSarum . . 13J Old Woman of Prior ParkSOl Oysters, history of . 366 Paddington Page, Sir Gregory's Mansion - Palliser, Sir Hugh Paper, manufactory of Parsons the Comedian Pensliurst - Peter ihc Great - Picrcefield - Pier, Margate Plain of Salisbury Pturatree J. Esij. Poem OQ Paget - 320 546 319 456 344 457 327 280 3^8 lv3 Polhilfs, Ksqrs, Pontypool - Poole's Hole Portland Isle Portsea Portsmouth 411 26« 209 26 139 138 408 36 (i - 4J6 Portraits of our Saviour 3l2 Potatoes, when first im- ported - . - 362 Pretender'* old Shoe - 376 Death - 99 Prior Park - - - 300 Prdteclion, singular - 100 Pump Room - - '297 Quaker Meeting - - 78 Quebec, Siejje of - 4tl Queen Elizabeth - - 436 Queen's Cross - - 163 Queen of Scots, Mary - 175 Quintiii, a Roman diver- siiui . - - 444 Quorn , - - 193 Ragland Castle - - 262 Raiusgale - - -401 Reading - - 303 Restoration of CharlesH.25'.2 Resurrection, picture of 130 Revolution of 1688 - 57 Riclii'.rd the Third - 184 Riclimond - . - 14'2 Idiots at Binningliam - 239' Rise of 4 lie Thumcs - 259 Robin Hood - - 233 Robinson on the Sea - 49 Rev. Robert, - Death of - - - 241 Roclii-ster ... .j.ifi RoLeby, Lord - - 431 Roman Curiosity - 183 Ross ... - ^60 Rousseau ... 2-22 Rowe's, Mrs. tomb-sloncl22 - Runueymede . - 15 Russci, execution of • U'tO INDEX. Saliibnry, city of - 127 Salmon Fishery - - tifiS Salt naine - - - 5;49 SHitness of the sea - 44 Sandwich - - 402 Savage ihe Poet's Grave 292 Scarsdale, Lord, seat of- 222 Sea - - - - 43 Sea-Bathing - - 47 Sedgemoor, battle of - 107 Severn, its course - 283 Shakspeare's Cliff - 4'26 ^ , Jubilee of 245 Sheep Shearing - - 158 Sheerness, account of - S63 Shepton Mallet Shooter's Hill Shovel, Sir Cloudesly end of - - ' Sldmouth Silk Mill, curious Sion House Sir Sidney Smith Sissinghurst Castle Sittiugbourne Skull of Sir Tlios. More Slipper of Becket Soldier's Funeral Southend ... sqj Sonthey's Inscription at Taunton Spithead Staines Steel Sir Richard Stockbridge Stone Henge Stonehouse, Sir James - '291 Slurry Church - - 388 V'illage - - ib. Mill burnt - 389 St. Thomas Becket's Mur- - 120 - 347 - 357 - 35 - 224 - 9 - 364 - 436 367 2T6 ib. 4o5 98 i39 15 140 140 124 der Swainscombe Sydney, Algernon -, Sir Philip Tamworth - Taunton Tenterden Tewksbury - 331 - 3.3'2 - 437 - ib. - 236 - 82 - 432 - Zoo Thicknessc, P. Esq. - 277 Thomson - - - 142 Tillctson, Archbishop - 38.^ Titian, engravings of - 390 Tomb, beautiful - - 226 'J'orbay - - - 57 Trees, curious - - 409 Trinity House - . 3'28 Tunbridge Town - - 438 Wells - - 437 Turnham Green - - 7 Twickenham - - 141- Tyburn ... 322 View of Copenhagen House 47rt — Kornsejr House 473 INGTON; RSMITH ; BRENT- J-N'SLCi!'; de; rc- ; ANEC- i\vn to jour- those ition, itain, )ther- isary. ately n- la- I our ds a irist, the Tom f ubenile Counst, LETTER I. DFl'ARTUnE FROM LOMDOV; KMGHTSBRIDGE ; KENSINGTON; HOLLAND house; CHELSEA; BATTEHSEA; HAMMERSMITH; cniswicK ; hogarth's tomb; turnham green; brent- roRD; sign-house; sir Joseph banks's seat; hounslov/; hocn'Slow-heath ; ijelfont; staines; runnymede; eg- HA.M ; bagsiiot; murrel's-green ; basingstokb; anec- dote of the ravages ok civil disseniion. DEAR SIR, -/VGREEABLE to your request I sit down to give you a narrative of the incidents of my jour- ney into the West; at least I shall notice those things which appear most worthy of attention, Your never having visited this part of Britain, will induce me to enter into a detail which, other- v/ise, might have been deemed imnecessary. Travelling during the summer season, has lately become a fashionable amusement. However la- borious such excursions may prove, yet, in our beloved island, its scenery in general affords a rich repast to the imagination. To the tourist, indeed, the West of England has been long the subject of panegyric, and justice demands from B 2 JUVENILE TOURIST. me the declaration, that my expectations were not disappointed. Taking leave ot' London, in the direction of the greai Western road, and having pasacci Hyde- Park Corner^ ncarwiiich is that noble intirirriay St. George's Hospital, we soon rcaciu 1 ' '■'':'>fs- bndvick, lived here, — and here was the scene of his last moments, wlien he is said to have sent for a profligate young Nobleman, that he might be wit- ness to the calmness of his dissolution. " See," ex- claimed thedeparting statesman,'* hovvachristian can die !" The sight had the desired effect, for it accomplished his reformation. Nor will it be improper here to mention, that the late celebrated Clunles James Fox drew his first breath within these wails. The Historj' of the Period just be- fore the Revolution of ]6SS, written by him, and published since his decease, is not only a work of consummate ability, but constitutes a perma- nent memorial of his pure and unadulterated love of civil and religious liberty. From this little ascent we enjoy a distant viev/ of Chelsea, a large and populous village ; in whose church yard is the monument of Sir Hans 5/o««e, the founder of the British Museum. The turrets of its College attract attention, and re- mind us of the extent and rnao-nificcnce of na- B 2 4 JUVENILE TOURIST. tional liberality. The building cost tlie im- mense sum of" 150,000/. constituting a noble monument of British liumanity! It was founded in the time of Cliailes the Second, for sick and wounded, soldiers who have served in the army twenty years. The number of the residents are above four hundred, beside officers of the col- lege, and there are near nine thousand out-pen- -^ioners ! The army pays poundage — every officer and soldier also appropriating one day's pay in the year to the fund. Sir Christopher Wren built the College, and its interior affords every convenience for so laudable an institution. A bronze statue of Charles the Second, standing opposite to the centreof the building, points out the period of its origin, and must excite in the breast of the superannuated soldier emotions of gratitude. It is a source of gratification to hear from the lips of these veterans the adventures of past days. Hence Goldsmith takes care to delineate his benevolent clergyman, as sympa- thizing with such a character, well knowing that it ])roved an indulgence to the benevolent feel- ings of the heart : — The broken soldier kindly- bade to stny, Sat b^ his fire ajid talk'd the night away ; Wept o'er his wounds, or tales of sorrow done, Shouidcr'd liis crutcli and shew'd how fields were won. An extensive building has been lately erected, called the Royal Mi/ilarij ^si/fum, for educating about 500 children belonging to non-commis- BATTERSEA. 5 sloned officers and soldiers : the expcnce was defrayed by a sum of money which parhament granted, and each regiment contributes one day's pay towards it. At Chelsea is a Botanic Garden^ belonging to the Apothecary's Company ; and the inspection of the coffee tree, tea shrub, and su- gar cane, must be gratifying to the curiosity of those, who have never visited either the Eastern or Western regions of the world. The prospect from this venerable mansion is also checquered by the spire of Battersea church. rising above the adjacent buildings ! Here lie the remains of the famous Lord BoU'uaybroke, whose pernicious writings gave to his name a tempory celebrity. Not far distant IVom tlie church at Battersea, a curious windmill rears its lofty circular form ! Its height is one hundred and forty feet ; the outer part consists of ninety- six shutters, eighty feet high and nine inches broad, which, by the pulling of a rope, open and shut in the manner of Venetian bUnds. The main shaft of the mill is the centre of a large cir- cle^ formed by the sails, whichconsistof ninety-six double planks placed perpendicularly, and of the same height as the planks that form the shutters. The wind rushing through the opening of these shutters, act upon the sails, and blowing fresh, turns the mill with prodigious rapidity. This, however, may be moderated by lessening the apertures, till the force is wholly annihilated. The mill is at present used in grinding malt for a dis- tillery. It was constructed after a mill at Mar- B J 6 JUVENILE TOURIST. gate ; one more only of the kind is to be found, >vhich is in the United States of America. But quilting Holland House, and its prospect, we find ourselves soon entering Hammersmith, a long and scattered village, having many pleasant spots in its vicinity. Its mall, close to the river side, is delightfully situated, and lias become the abode of several families of respectability. A sad accident happened here in January 1803: the village was disturbed by some silly reports re- specting a ghost, when a Mr. Smith, an excise- man, sallied forth one night in quest of this said apparition. Meeting a man dressed in white, he called to him, but receiving no answer, imme- diately fired and killed him on the spot. Smith was tried at the Old Bailey and condemned to die, but from his good character, and the very singular nature of the case, he was properly made an object of the Royal Mercy. He was much and justly affected on the awful occasion. Tieyond Hammersmith \sC/muick, a small place on the banks of the Thames ; its church-yard contains the remains of the celebrated Hogarth, many of whose caricatures, notwithstanding their t;ccentricity, hold out salutary lessons of im- provement to mankind. The lines, therefore, on his ton)!), written by Mr. Garrick, are very- expressive : Farewell, groat painter of mankind. Who reacli'd the noblest point of art ; Whose picUir'd morals diarm the mind. And through the eye correct the heart ! TURNHAM-GREEN. 7 If genius fire thee, reader, stay ! If nature move thee, drop a tear ; If neither touch thee, turn away, For Hogarth's honour'd dust lies iiere ! In this neighbourhood m;iy be seen the band- some house of the late Lord Burlington, bearing a strons; resemblance to an Itahan Villa. Turnhani-G rcen , the next village, boasts of a small seat once the residence of Lieutenant Ge- neral Lord JJeath/ield, whose defence of Gibral- tar, in the American war, has rendered his name memorable in the annals of this country. Gun- nershury- House, likewise, is not far distant from this little village. It was built by the son-in-law of Inigo Jones, of architectural celebrity. Here resided her late Royal Highness the Princess Amelia, aunt to his present Majesty. At Turnham-Green also, close to the road, is the elegant mansion of II. Griffiths, Esq. present proprietor of the Monthly Review. His ve- nerable father first established that most re- spectable literary journal ; and he was the patron of learned men for upwards of half a century. A history of the literati of this country for se- veral years past, would have come wiih great pro- priety from the pen of that gentleman, (lately deceased at an advanced age) and proved an ac- ceptable present to the literary world. Thus leaving London it is impossible not to touch upon some of these objects, which, stand- ing on or near the public road, by their very prominency invite attention. In receding from 8 JUVEMLC TOURIST. the metropolis, however, these subjects of cuii- osity gradually lessen ; but then in exchange for these confined specimens of art, we are intro- duced to the more simple and uncontrolled beau- ties of the country. After passinsf throuGfli the villa2,es of Knights- bridge, Kensington, Hammersmith, and I'urn- ham-Green, we came to Brentford, the county town for Middlesex. Here, therefore, elections are held, and this was, of course, the spot where the turbulent business of Jo//// /^ iVA'es took place ; as well as the more recent bustle of Burdett and Mai nzca ring, still fresh in our memory. The hustings are erected on the right of the town, in a kind of grove well fitted for the purpose ; but how is the silence of the hallowed recess violated by these tumultuous transactions ! Tlie town it- self has been famous for its length and filth, which Thomson, in his Castle of Indolence, has thus humourously recorded : 13ehold, through Brentford town, a town of inud. An herd of bristly swine is ptick'd along ! Tlie fillhy beasts that never chew the cud. Still grunt aHd squeak, and sing their troub'lous song. And oft tliey plunge themselves the luire among; Kut ay the ruthless driver goads them on. And ay of barking dogs, the bitter throng Aiakes them bemoan their unmelodious moan, Nc never fiud they rest from their unresting (one ! Brentford, containing a good many inhabi- tants, has a church, a chapel, and some dissenting places of worship, of which the Presbyterian is BRENTFORD — SION-HOUSE. 9 remarkable for its neatness and simplicity. In the church the celebrated John Home Tooke, once officiated as curate,, though it is well known he has long ago renounced every thing which belongs to the clerical profession. Here resides Mrs. Trim- mer, a lady to whom the rising generation are highly indebted. The vicinity of Brentford, lying on the Thames, is particularly pleasant. A bloody battle was fought here in 101(i, between Edmund Ironside, and Canute the Dane, who was defeat- ed. To this town the unfortunate Charles the First retired after the battle of Edgehillin 1642, which opened a civil war between him and his parliament,^when he of course meditated the pro- secution of those hostilities which terminated in his destruction. Opposite Brentford, on the other side of the Thames, stands the nezcdy erected palace of our present monarch, — but not yet fi- nished. It is in the Gothic style, has a grand, though heavy appearance ; itis, however, not quite fair to pass any judgment respecting it before its completion. A little beyond Brentford, on the left, the en- trance into the Duke of Northumberland's park may be seen, adorned with a lion, sphinxes, and other sculptured embellishments. Sion-Ilome, within tiie park, is not perceived from the road It is a plain antique structure, cliiefly remarkable for its great gallery, which extends the whole length of the east front, over the arcades. There is also a quantity of old china vases, of differenX forms and sizes, crowded together in almost every 10 JUVENILE TOURIST. Ji{>;irtineut ; and the Pedigree picture here is one oi' the greatest curiosities of its kind in England, exhibiting the noble and royal connections of the Pcrcies, now united in the present Duchess of Noithuniberland. Init, alas ! how little reason we have to [)ique ourselves on the honours of an- cestry, and to look down with supercilious con- tempt upon those who are beneath us. I\eitlier talents nor virUies arise from the temperature of the blood. — Act iLcUyowT purl, there all llio honour llc& ! POPE. Ilis Grace the present Duke of Northumher- lend, almost a niartj'r to the gout, was at an early period of life in the army. He was present at the battle of JjimJcer's Hill, and was, there- fore, one of the few officers who escaped oti that dreadful occasion. On the right, before we entered Ilonn^lozc^ is the seat of Sir Joseph Banks ; a neat mansion, with considerable gardens, where curious plants are reared with care and assiduity. The proprietor accompanied Captain Cook roinid the uorld, is now presidet?t of the Koyal Society, and has long been distinguished lor his ro)-earches into every branch of knowledge connected with 7ia- tiiral hislon/. His house, in tow n, is on cer- tain days the resort «>f the learned, both of this and of foreign countries. The object is mutual in)provement. HOUNSLOW. 11 At Hoiinslovv we jti-st slopped to cliange horses, ^ place remarkable only for its numerous inns. Imnitduitely upon our entrance on the heath, aboui a stone's .throw I'rom the road, there is to l^e seen a wooden monument, shockingly marked by a hloodi/ hand and kuij'e, with this inscription : — Buried, with a stake through liis body here, the wicked murderer, Johu Ftclor, who cut the throat of his wife and child, and poisoned him- self, July 6, 17t).5 !" The sight of such an object instantly conjures up in the imagination all those cruelties wiiich have been perpetrated on tiiis se- cluded spot by wretches in the last stages of de- pravity. Of late years, however, the traveller lias met with fewer interruptions, though still we hear, not unfrequently, of robberies iuthat quar- ter during the winter season of the 3-ear ; a proof of which is exhibited by a gibbet, erected not far from Belfont, on vvliich we saw suspended the body of Haines, generally knoun by the designa- tion of the wounded Higlnvayman. He was, ap- parently, a large tall man ; his irons were so con- structed that his arms hung at some little dis- tance from his body, by which means the hide- ous sight was rendered more terrjlic and impres- sive. The skirts of his coat waved the wind, and, together with other parts of his appearance, sug- gested, with full force, the horrible idea of a fel- low-creature deprived of the honours of sepul- ture, and consigned, with every mark of execra- tions to the grinning scorn of public infamy! -Another body occupies the other part of the gib- IC JUVENILE TOURIST. bet; he was a comrade o? Haities, and is there- fore made a partaker of his infiimy. Tlie heath, about fifty years ago, used to be disgraced with along range of gibbets ; but the Royal Family, frequently passing and repassing to Windsor, occasioned their removal, and no renewal of them has been attempted. The murder of Mr. Steel on the heath ; the execution of the supposed murderers, (for they never confessed it) Hallo- way and Haggerty, Feb. 23rd, 1807, and the dreadful catastrophe attending it, are events in every body's recollection. Public records will convey them, with all their aggravations, to pos- terity. Vestiges of ancient camps are discernible on the heath ; and it has been, more than once, the rendezvous of the principle military force of this kingdom. The Earl of Gloucester, in 1267, mus- tered here at the head of the Londoners. The army of King Charles was entrenched here in 1642, the day after the battle of Brentford ; and the Parliamentar}' forces, under Sir Thomas Fair- fax-, encamped here in 1647, even to the amount of 20,000 foot and horse, with a great train of ar- tillery — being visited by the speaker and several members of both houses of parliament. But we must not forget to mention, that in 1686, James the Second was stationed here with his army of 15,000 men, under the Earl of Feversham, with the view of enslaving the nation, after the suppression of the Duke of Monmouth's rebellion. This was the army, among whose officers and soldiers, INTREPIDITY OF JOHNSOX. 1.1 Mr. Samuel Johnson, a spirited clergyman, dis- tributed a piece against Popery, entitled au Humble and lieartif Jddreas to all the Prote&tants in tliepreseiit Jlrmy, S;c. for which he was solemnly degraded and whipt with the utmost severity. On this spot also the same army received tha news of the acquittal of the seven bishops with loud rejoicings, even in the hearing of the King. His Majesty, sitting at dinner in the tent of the general, heard a sudden noise, and enquired anx- iously the cause. Feversham told him that it was nothing but the rejoicing of the soldiers for the acquittal of the bishops. " Do 3'ou call that no- thing ," replied he ; " but so much the worse for fhem" In this, however, the King was mistaken, for the activity of Johnson, and the triumph of the bishops, accelerated the revolution. John- son, who was whipt from Netvgateto Tyburn , for the above pamphlet, bore it with the spirt of a martyr. It is too remarkable to be omitted : he observed afterwards to an intimate friend, that this text of Scripture coming suddenly into hi.^ mind, He endured the cross despising the shame, so iinimated and supported him in the bitter jour- ney, that had he not thought it v.ould have looked like vain-glory, he would have suiig a psalm while the executioner was doing his office, with as much composure and cheerfulness as ever he had done at church, though he had at that time a quick sense of every stripe which was given him, to the number of three hundred and seven- teen, with a whip of nine cords knotted! Thi? c 14 JUVEMLB TOURIST. cruelty strikingly shews not only the tyranny of the times, but the spirit Avhich was roused to counteract it, and by which it was finally over- vhelmcd. Impartiality, however, obliges me to say that Johnson was a man ofa turbulent spirit ; for he was not contented with the Revolution. In ]79.'> barracks were built on the extremity of the heath, nearest Colnbrook, capable of con- taining above 400 men, who, in general, behave with order and regularity. Having mentioned the number of soldiers] that have at different times been exhibited on this heath, in all the pride of military evolutions, but are now laid low in the dust, we are reminded of Xerxes, who, surveying his vast army passing the Hellespont, wept when he considered that in the course of an hundred years they zcould he no more! Such reflections, however otvioiis, are con- genial with the best feelings of humanity. Near the heath are Pozcder Mills, which have explo- ded on various occasions. Passing the village of Belfont, we could not help noticing the yew-trees in the church-yard, cut into fanciful forms, having even the date 1704 delineated on them with ingenuity. We were diverted with their appearance, though on other occasions we are ready to address the Cheerless unsocial plant ! that loves to dwell 'Midsl sculls and coffins, epitaphs and worms ; Where light-hecl'd gliosts and visionary shades, Seucalh the wau cold moun, (as fame reports) STAINES— MAGNA CIIARTA. 15 Embodied thick, perform their mystic rounds ; Ivo otlicr luerriiuent, dull tree ! is thine. BLAIH. We soon reached Staines, a pleasant town, seventeen miles from London. It derives its name from the Saxon word stana, which signifies u done, and was applied to this place from a boundary stone, anciently set up here to mark the extent of the city of London's jurisdiction upon the Thames. The stone is now extant ; on a moulding round its upper part, is inscribed *'God preserve the city of London, A. D. 1280!" The church stands alone, almost half a milefrom the town. On ;;he south-east side of Staines is .linnui/mede, the spot on which King John was compelled by his barons to sign the famous char- ter of English liberties, styled Magna Charta : ■ Near Thames' silver waters lies a mead. Where England's barons^ bold in freedom's cause, Conipell'd her king to ratify her laws ; With constancy maintained the subjects' right. And serv'd a sov'reign in his own despite. On that fam'd mead their honest claims to seal, ' They risk'd their private for the public M'eal j Bravely resolv'd to make the tyrant yield. Or die like heroes on the glorious field 1 Hume has thus briefly recorded the transac- tion — "A conference between king John and the Barons was appointed, 15th June, 1212,atRunny- mede, between Windsor and Staines ; aplacewhich has ever since been extremely/ celebrated on account of this great event. The two parties encamped apart, like open enemies, and after a debate for a few c 3 ]6 JUVENILE TOUniST. (lays (IQih June) the King, with a facility some- what suspicious, signed and sealed the charter which was required of him. Tliis famous deed, commonly called the Great Charter, either grant- ed or secured very important liberties and pri- vileges to every order of men in the kingdom." LMr. Hume then enters into particulars respect- ing the contents of this charter-— as it regarded the clergy, the barons, and the people. It is an interesting detail, in which the happiness and wtlt'are of every British subject arc involved. At the British jNIuseum 1 lately was shewn what is said to be the very copy of the charter signed on this memorable occasion. It bore all the marks of antiquity, and being much injured by the ravages of time, a facsimile laid close to it by way of elucidation. Near Staines lies Egham, famous for its races, at ihe distance of four miles from Windsor. It abounds with ir;ns, being a thoroughfare into the '\\ est, and has an handsome charity-school. Jlcre arc also alms-houses, one of which was built, and is endowed by Sir John Denhan>, a Ikuon of the Exchequer in tlic reign of Cliarles the Second, fur five poor old women, who have each a little orchard to themselves. This Sir John, was the father of Denliam the poet, who took delight in this spot. He immortalized him- self by a poem, entitled Cooper's Hill, in which the river Tiiames is thus characterised in one stanza, said to be the most descriptive in our janguage:— DAGSnOT. 17 Oh ! could I flow like thee, and make thy stream TSly great example, as it is ray theme ! Though deep, yet clear — tliough gentle yet not dull. Strong without rage — without o'er-flowing full. From Egham we came to Bagsliof, passing over a long and dreary heath, remarkable only for the roads by which it is every where intersected, and which where made for the convenience of his Majesty, when he indulged himself jn the pleasures of the chace. At first sight they make a singular appearance, but are well calculated to answer the ends for which they were intended. These parts lying in the vicinity of Windsor,, accounts for the purposes to which they are appropriated. Bagshot affords good accommo- dation to travellers. At one of its inns a curious scene took place between the famous John Wilkes, and one of his opponents whom he in- sisted to engage in a duel. It is so described by Wilkes in a letter, thai the perusal of it cannot fail to occasion some merriment, though it has a reference to so serious a subject. Tlie sterile tract of country with which the town is sur- rounded, seems scarcely capable of much im« provement. Having drank tea at our next stage, Murrel's Green, only a single inn, with a pleasant garden, we got to Basingstoke before ten, wearied with our peregrination. This is a large populous place, with three cliarity schools, in one of which twelve boys are maintained by the Skinner's Company C 3 18 JUVENILE TOURIST. in London. The remains of Holy Ghost Chapel stand on an eminence and overlook the town. It was erected in the reign of Henry the Eighth: and the history of the prophets and apostles once formed a fine decoration to its apartments, has a market for corn, especially barley, and a The Town trade in malt. The chief manufac- ture is in druggets and shalloons. A fine brook runs by the town, which abounds with trout; for which, indeed, the Hampshire streams have been long famous. Contemplating these waters, whose transparency and rapidity please the eye even of the passing traveller, an exclamation was ready to escape my lips : — I in these flowery meads would be. These chrystal streams should solace me. To whose harnionious bubbling noise, I with my angle would rejoice : •WALTO^f. In tbe neighbourhood of Basingstoke, there was, formerly, a seat of John Marquis of Win- chester, which, in the civil wars, was turned into a fortress for the king, and held out a long time, to the great annoyance of the Parliament army ; at length Cromwell took it by storm, and pro- voked by the obstinacy of its defence, put many of the garrison to the sword, and burnt the house to the ground ! It was, we are told, a mansion fitter for a prince than a subject ; and, among other furniture destroyed with it, there was one "bed worth 1,400/. yet so considerable was tlae BASINGSTOKE. IQ pUinder, that a private soldier got for his share no less a sum than 300/. Alas ! the fury of civil wars is so well known, that its outrages excite httle astonishment. Bella, horrida Bella ! was the pathetic exclamation of one of the most cele- brated writers of antiquity! Having travelled about Jiftj/ miles since three in the afternoon, we felt ourselves disposed to remain at Basingstoke during the night. Taking, therefore, our accustomed refreshment, we suc- cessfully wooed " kind nature's sweet restorer, balmy sleep," forgetting for a few hours the anxieties and hazards of our journey. I remain, dear Sir, Yours, Jvc. £0 JUVENILE TOURIST. LETTER II. AN'ROVER ; DUNS SCOTUS; WEYUILL : SALISBURY ; lll.ANDrOUD J DOHCiirsTER J WEYMOUTH; rORiLAvi) ISLE; bridport; CHARMOUTH ; COUNTRY FAIR ; CAPTAIN CURIOUS, DEALER IN SPARS AND PET R IFACTIONS ;' LYME; LANDING OF THE DUKE OF MONM')UTH ; REMARKABLE HXECUTION OF HIS AU- HERENTS; SlDMOUTIl. BEAR SIR. 1 HE next morning we were seated in our chaise before five, and soon got to Andover, a large pleasant well built town, on the edge of the downs, for which Wiltshire is distinguished. It is. said to have hivd its first charter from King John, and was last incorporated by Queen Elizabeth. It has a manufacture of shalloons, and is a great thoroughfare from Newbury to Salisbury, as well as from London down to the south-western ex- tremities of the kingdom. I could not help re- marking, that at the inn in this place, an en- graving of Duns Scotus was placed over the bar,, where the liquors are mixed for their customers. Whether the effigy of this profound doctor was thought necessary to the due mixture of the in- gredients, or whether this grave metaphysician ever indulged in such delightful draughts, I am not able to say. The walls of college* are, some- times, decorated with his portrait; but 1 should never have expected to have caught his features in the bar of the tavern. BUNS SCOTUS. 21 It may not be improper just to add, that this curious character, Diois Scotiis, was of the order of St. Francis ; by the acuteness of his parts, and espcciall}'^ by his manner of disputing, he acquired the name of the SuLt/e Doctor. He was Very zealous in opposing the opinions of Thomas -Aquinas, which produced two parties hi the schools, the Thomis^ts and the Scotists. He was a writer of prodigious subtiity, and, like all sub- tle writers, refined upon every subject he handled, till it had iiomeaniiicf left in it. This indefatio-able scribbler left behind him ten volumes in folio — now mere waste paper! He died 1303, at Co- logne, in Germany. The perusal of this man's works leminds me of a Sonnet TO :XOTHING ! Mysterious nothing — how shall 1 define Thy .shapeless, baseless, placeiess emptiness ; Nor i'orra, nor colour, sound nor size are thine. Nor words, nor figures can thy void express. % But tho' we cannot Vte- with ouglu compare. To thee a thousand things may lilceii'd be j And tho' thou art witii nohr^dy — iiouihtie. Yet half mankind devote their lives to thee. How many books thy history contain ! How many heads thy mighty plans pursue ! What labouring hands thy portion only gain ! What busy men thy doings only do I To thee the great, the proud, the giddy bend. And lilce my Honnet — alhin nothiii"- end.*i * See an ingenious volume, entitled Poetic Amusement, by the Rev. T. Beck,— it is designed lor young people, and is replet$ with initruction and entcrtaimuent. 22 JUVENILE TOURIST. On the left side of Andover lies TVei/hill, re- markable on account of its havinu; one of the greatest fairs for hops, cheese, and sheep, in England. It is, however, only a village, contain- ing a desolate church, on a rising hill, with a few straggling houses. From Andover we directed our course to Salisburr/, where we arrived to breakfast. This eit}-, and its adjoining plains, will be noticed in a future letter ; since, upon our return alone, they became the subjects of examination. ^Ve may, however, just remark, that the appearance of this place conveys an idea of respectability, and its lofty spire excites admiration. BlcnidJ'ord, in Dorsetshire, was our next place of destination. It lies upon the Stour, at the distance of 10? miles from London. Twice has it been burnt down by accident ;y7Vsf in the reign of Queen Elij^abeth, and the second time in the year IISI, when the fire raged so violently, that few of the people saved any of their goods. It im fortunately happened at this last contiagration, that the inhabitants were afflicted with that scourge to humiinity, the small-pox, so that many of the sick were carried from amidst the flames into the fields, where they expired ! But another account says, that the removal of them into the open air was I'avourable to the disease, and thus operated to produce, among the faculty, a more cool treatment of it.* The town, however, was • A Bill has bfc. brouglil into Parliament to forbid Inocula* «ion iur Uie Small- 1 oi, not only on account of its contiigioui * I5LANDF0RD. 23 soon rebuilt in a more beautiful manner. I sm- veyed tills place with attention, on account of the handsome epithets with which Mr. Gibbon, the historian, has honoured it. In his own life, when Ca[)tain in the Hampshire militia, he men- tions his passing some time at " the hospitable and phusant Biandford ;" and afterwards, remarks, *' we again returned to our beloved Biandford." Our next stage brought us to Dorchester, a place of antiquity, and famous among the Ro- mans. It consists chiefly of three streets, and the houses though old and low, yet are regularly built, St. Peter's church is a handsome struc- ture, and there is a traditional barbarous rhyme, informing us that — "Geoffery Van, With his wife Ann, And his maid Nan, • Built this church." The county goal, in this town, is a large build- ing, erected upon the plan of the late Mr. How- ard, a man of extensive benevolence, and of an unparalleled philanthropy. It is surrounded by an high wall, and can boast of an healthy situation. At the time I visited it the convicts were iaw, not more than half a dozen, part of whom I saw •white-washing the walls, and the remainder were weeding the yards, all in irons I nature, but wi(h the view of extending tlie Vaccination. Some, however, highly disapprove of this prohibitory Bill, whilst others ■warmly comnieud it. a JUVENILE TOURIST. Here the learned and patriotic Gilbert JVahe- Jicld was confined two years for a libel on go- vernment. He died soon after his release, September 19^ 1801, and was buried at Rich- mond, where a neat monument may be seen erect- ed to his memory. While we regret the in- temperate warmtli with which he wrote on poli- cal subjects, it is impossible not to revere his ta- lents, admire his learning, and venerate his inte- grity. The principal business of this place and its vi- cinity, at present, is breeding of sheep, of which it is said no less than 60,000 are fed within six miles of the town ; the ewes generally bring forth two lambs, which fertility is imputed to the wild thyme, and other aromatic herbage, which grows upon the adjaccnl downs in great plenty. JSot far from Dorchester is Maiden Castle, the completcst remains of ancient fortification in the kingdom. In the neighbourhood the Romans had an amphitheatre 140 feet wide, and 220 long, now called Muiimhun/, having a terrace on the top, which is still used as a public walk, and commands a prospect of the town and country around it. Weymouth, about the distance of nine miles on the left of the Bridport road, is well known for the predilection which the Royal Family shew it, by whom, for some j^ears past, it has been annually visited. It is a clean, improved, and well-fre- quented port, seated on the mouth of the Wye, and incorporated with Melcombe Rcgis^ with WEYMOUTH. 25 which it communicates by means of a new con- structed draw-bridge. Its port is injured by sand, from which circumstance, its trade, once considerable, is now much reduced, though it sends some ships to Portugal and Newfound- land. Its fine velvet beach, and soft air, render the place peculiarly fit for sea-bathing. Hence, in the season, it is crowded with company. The history of all bathing places shews from what inconsiderable beginnings they have arisen to their present prosperity. Thus, with respect to Weymouth, the recommendation of the fa- mous Ralph Allen, Esq. (the friend of Pope, and the patron of Warburton) about the year 17GO, is thought to havefirst attracted thepublic attention. At that time, however, it was small and meanly built, though now it vies in beauty with any other watering place in the kingdom. Gloucester-Row, Chesterfiekl-PIace, York-Buildings, Clarence- Buildings, Augusta-Place, and Charlotte-Row, are handsome residences, both for the gentry and nobility. The views from these spots are delight- ful. In its semicircular bay ships are seen conti- nually gliding to and fro on the surface of the deep, beside pleasure vessels, which may at any time be engaged for aquatic excursions. During his Majesty's stay at Weymouth he often embarks at the extremity of the new pier, to visit ships of war which are hovering around their respective stations. Hence, to use the words of a modern writer—" This shore must be dear to Britons, from which their INlonarch, wearied 26 JUVENILE TOURIST. with the toils of state, has often returned in r»^ novated health and spirits. Long may ^^'ey- mouth be honoured with his summer visit, and may its tides and its breezes waft to him and the partner of his throne all their salutary inHu- ences i" From Weymouth may be seen Portland hlc, in reality a penmsula, inaccessible, excepting at the landing place, where a strong castle first reared its turrets in the reign of Henry the Eighth. The peninsula itself is almost a continued rock of free-stone, of which 9,000 tons are annu- ally exported ! Whitehall, St. Paul's church, the piers of Westminster, and the whole of Black- friar's Bridge are built with it. It is admired for its neatness and durability. Off Portland Isle it was that the Hahicell East Indiaman, Cap- tain Pearce, was wrecked, in the year 17SG. with circumstances of peculiar aggravation ! And here more recently was the Abergavenu}/ East Indiaman, with the loss of near 400 lives, con- signed to immediate destruction. Most of its valuable contents have been recovered from the deep, by means of an ingenious machine ; and for this salutary effort of art, its author has been liberally rewarded. Leaving Dorchester in the straight western di- rection, we soon reached Bridpoit, a long w ell- built town, with the appearance of which we were particularly pleased. It is situated at the distance ct I'Jtt miles from London, upon h small river near the coast of the English channel. The cor- COR C H EST E R — C H A R M O VTU. 27 poiatiou arc principally dissenters, who are here both numerous and ot'respectability . Theentrance to the harbour was, formerly, choaked by sands, which the tide threw up ; and though an aet of parliament was passed in 1722, for restoring and building the haven and piers, it was not for some time executed. The place is famous for ropes and cables : and bv a statute, made in the rei«;n of Henry VllI, it was enacted, that the cordage of the English navy should, for a limited time, be made in this town, or within five miles of it* The soil still produces as good crops of hemp a* any in England. We now set off for L^me, which brings us near the end of our journey. Had the atmoKphere been clear, we should have enjoyed a prospect of the ijca ; but a fog, common to this part of the coun- try, so completely envleoped the horizon, that scarcely any object was visible around us. By this circumstance we were considerably disaj)- pointed. A view of the English channel would liave pleasingly relieved the eye after our long jaunt over the Dorsetshire downs, which, how- ever ornamented by flocks of sliecp, tire by their tedious uniformity. A few miles before we entered Lyme, we passed through Charmouth, a village on an eminence near the sea, whence of course, had the fog per- mitted us, we should have had a delightful survey of the wide and majestic ocean ! It was a fair, and of course characterized by that ludicrous bustle which is usual on such occasions. The D 2 28 JUVExNILE TOURIST. honest rustics were assembled for the purpose of recreation ; and merriment, in every form, seem- ed to be the object of pursuit. A country fair has been aptly described both by Hitrdis and JVarton ; the Uncs of the latter, of which I was now reminded, you probably recollect : — Beliold the transports of yon festive scene, Where the svide country, on the tented green. Its inmates pour, impatient all to share The expected pleasures of the annual fair. See ! to the amorous youth and village maid The pedlar's silken, treasury display'd ; The liquorish hoy the yellow simncl eyes, The champion's cudgel wins ihc envy'd prize j The marshal trumpet calls the gazers in, AVhere liuns roar, or fierce hyenas grin ; Responsive to the tabor's sprightly sound. Behold the jingling 3Iorris beat the ground ; The neighbouring courser, sleek'd and trick'd for sale. Grains in his paunch and ginger in his tail ; The dwarf and giant, painted to tlie life. The spirit-stirring drum, the shrill-ton'd fife. Prelusive to the warlike speech that charms The kindling heroes of the plains to arms ! Here bliss unfeign'd in every eye we trace, Here heartfelt mirlh illumines every face ; For pleasure here has never learnt to cloy, But days of toU enliven hours of joy I Mv friend informed me that Charmouth con- tains in its cliffs an inexhaustable magazine of petrifactions. Nature here seems to have depo- sited some of her cboicest treasures. Perhaps the cornua ammonis, nautilus, and belemnite, are found here in as great perfection as in any part LYME. 29 of the kingdom. In fact, there are few cabinets whicii are not indebted for beautiful specimens of the above-mentioned fossils, to this village. Nor must we forget that dog-tooth spars, of the highest beauty, elegant specimens of petrified, wood, the vertebrae and other bones of marine animals, are also here found. Gentlemen's car- riages, when they stop here, are frequently beset by the poor, who collect these things on the beach^. and offer them to sale. Among these, the person commonly known by the epithet of Captain Cu- rious, is distinguished. Indeed he makes it his profession, and on enquiring for him, virtuosi are shewn to his cottage, where an assortment of these articles is kept for the accommodation of liis customers. Here you will permit me to recommend an ad- mirable work, entitled, Organic Heinaiiis ofajor' mer World, by J. Parkinson, the Second Volume of which has been recently published. The ac- count of fossils given by the author is truly cu- rious and well worthy attention. The numerous plates are exact copies of nature, and coloured with exquisite delicacy. Jjyme, lies close by the sea-side, seated in a ca- vity between two rocky hills, on the river Lyme, which runs through it, and whence its name is derived. The road to it, from the village of Char- mouth, forms a tremendous declivity. Being dark, it felt as if we were driving down into the bottom of the ocean ! It is sometimes denomina- ted L^'me Regisj or King's Lyme, probably from p 3 50 JUVENILE TOURIST. its having been annexed to the crown in the reign of Edward the First. Here are some fine houses built of free-stone^ and covered with bkie slate. This place is frequented in the bathing season, having machines and other accommoda- tions for company. Houses for the genteeler classes have been raised on the side of theliill, whence theeyeis exhilirated with a prospect of the ocean ! Lodgings for strangers also are to be procured in this elevated situation, and it is said with a tolerable degree of cheapness. In general these places of resort are exorbitant in their charges, so that persons in the middle rank of life, should they visit the sea side, either for health ox pleii' sure, need study economy. Lyme is also praised for the good hours kept by the company who visit it ; and early rising has always been deem- ed conducive to health and spirits. It is, how- ever, a practice unknown in the fashionable world. Lyme is a good harbour, and the merchants lade and unlade their goods at a place called the Cobb, a massy buikling, consisting of a firm stone wall running outinio the sea, and in a cur- vilinear direction. That part of the town nearest the ocean, lies so low, that at spring-tides the cellars are overflown to the height of ten or twelve feet. The custom-house stands upon pil- lars, and has the corn market underneath it. It was at I yuie that the unfortunate James Duke of jN'lonmouth landed, in June, iGSo, with about cigiity men ; his luimbcrs, however, soon BATTLE OF SEDGEMOOR. 31 increased ; he marched to Axminster and Taun- ton, but giving battle to the King's troops at Sedgemoor, near Bridgewater, he was defeated, and soon afterwards belieaded. I shall enter more fully into this business in my account of Taunton, and in the mean time refer the reader to Charlen James Fox's incomparable Historical Work, where the character and fate of the Duke of Mon- mouth are sketched with equal truth and ability. His adherents were pursued with unrelenting cruelty, and several were executed at this place, with circumstances of aggravated severity. In particular, twelve persons were hung at one time, among whom were Colonel Holmes, Dr. Temple, and Samuel Robins, whose cases were pe- culiar. Holmes was an old and gallant officer, who had served under Cromwell with distin- guished reputation. He accompanied the Uuke to Holland, by whom he was made major-gene- ral. In the action of Philip's Norton, one of his arms was shot to pieces, so that it hung only by the flesh ; in consequence of this, being soon taken, he was stripped bj^ the soldiers, and car- ried before a justice of peace, who humanely cloathed him. His shattered arm being an in- cumbrance to him, he, waiting in the kitchen for his worship, laid it on the dresser, and cut it off himself with the cook-maid's-knife ! He was hanged on the spot where he landed with the Duke, and met his fate with manly fortitude and resiiifnation. G'l JUVENILE TOURIST. Dr. Temple \va=i a native of Notl'mgliam, wlio going lo Holland for expcricnee i:i his profession, iiK't wiih tlic Duke, who engaged hin) as his phy- sieian and surgeon. He knew nothing of the Duke's intcnlion of invading England, till ihey had been some time at sea : yet, notwithstanding this exeulpatoiy fact, no interest could save him. Samuel llobins was a fisherman of Charmouth, who w^ent on board the Diike's ship to dispose of iiis fish, and was ofeourse compelled to pilot him into Lyme. He would, however, have been par- doned, had it not been proved in court that a book, entitled, The Solemn League and Covenant, was found in his house. It is observed by a Mr. Pitts, who was a spec- tator of the execution of these twelve unfortu- nate persons, that they were to have been drawn to the place of execution on a sledge ; but no cart horses, nor even coach horses, could be made to draw it, so that they were obliged to go on foot. This circumstance was remarked at the time, and considered by many as a kind of mirt«cle ! It undoubtedly had suinelhing extraordinary in it; but every little circumstance is easily convertible info an omen by minds inclinable to superstition. Had the Duke of Monnu)uih proved success- ful in his expedition, Li/rne would no doubt have been held in the same degree of veneration with which Tuthajj is conteu)[)lated by the friends of ci\iland religious liberty. The fortune of (Var is proverbial, and success sanctions almost every thing in the e\e of the world. PLEASANT NIGHT TRAVELLING. 55" "VV^e left Lyine^ encircled by the shades of the evening, and passing through CuUiton, a snug little place, reached Sklmonth at a late hour, when its inhabitants were peacefully reclined on their beds : — Tempus erat quo prima quies mortalibus aegris Incipit, et iloao divum gratis-iima serpit, 'T\v^s in the dead of night, when sleep repairs Our bodies worn with toil, our minds with cares. We soon, however, got access into the house of our friend, a gentleman of respectability, who entertained us with his accustomed hospitality. 1 cannot help remarking with what different sensations we travel after sun-set in those parts of the country which are remote from the Me- tropolis. Neither footpad nor highwayman haunted our imaginations. The darkness of the night, and the retiredness of the roads, would, in the vicinity of a great city, conspire for our destruction. Whereas Itere we were only expo- sed to the dangers incident to night-travelling, and of course were better able to secure our per- sonal safely. In this respect the Co^^^/t/ reminds us of the golden age, w lien Innocence and Peace • joined hand-in-hand to render men happy ; whilst the huge over-grown metropolis nourishes in her bosom miscreants of every description; whence they issue with desperate intentions, the pest and disgrace of society ! Laws, human and divine, are insufficient to restrain them. Every 34 JlVEMLE TO nil ST. returning xvhiier invites these men to the perpe- tration of deeds of violence. We are fearful of walking abroad — we are not suffered to re:*tquiet in our liabilalions. Whatever boasted advant- ages, therefore, cities may possess — for peace, tjuietness, and safety, give me some retired spot iii the country. And why this essential differenee ? JrJan made the Town — God made tliC Con 'try ! CovVPIH. In my next epistle I shall send you an account of SidmoiUh and its viciuifi/. — 1 remain, Yoiiv's repectfully. 3 LETTER in. FIRST SIGHT OF THE SEA ; DrSCHIl'TIOX OF SIDJIOUTII, BT A fp.iend; its position; ns trade; its history; ne IIEAI.IIIV AKD DELIGHTFUL SITUATION; THE OCEAN DE- SCRinrD BY DENIIAM ; CAUSES OF THE SALTMESS OF ril)? 3EA coNsiornEi) UY the bishop of landaff ; sea, con'sidered IN A jioRAL Point of view, a rich source of niPROvr- ment. DEAR SIR, JnLAVING in my last two Epistles delineated inj route to Sidmout/i ; I now proceed to give you an account of this place and its vicinity. Of late years it has become the resort of genteel persons during the summer season. But at a former pe- riod it used to offer the valetudinarian, in addi- tion to the softness of the sea-breezes, all the pleasures of retirement. The friend who had admitted us beneath his hospitable roof, possessed a spot remarkable for the neatness of its appearance and the felicity of its situation, leagerl}^ availed myself of the light of the ensuing day, to ascertain the nature of the place wliither I had arrived amid the shades of midnight darkness. The house J found was in- closed by a garden, highly cultivated, abounding with fruit, and furnishing a prospect both of the ocean and of the surrounding country. The scene had all the gloss of novelty : At one of its SG JUVENILE TOUItlST. extremities lay a summer-house, into which we ascended by a flight of" steps, and from which the sea burst upon the eye of the spectator with un- common grandeur. Its hoarse resounding mur- murs were even thence distinctly heard by the listening ear ; and struck with the contempla- tion of so immense a body of water, I was ready to exclaim with Thomson : — And, THOU, iDajcstic main, A world of secret wonders in tliyself, Sound his stupendous praise, whose greater voice Or Lids you roar, or bids your roarings fall ! Much pains have been lately taken by our critics in tracing out some of the finest lines in the British Poets, to passages in the ancient clas- sics, JNlay not the above quotation, I mean the latter part, be said to resemble a passage in Horace — with this difference only, that the Ro- man Bard has assigned to a particular mind Avhat the British Poet has much more sublimely applied to the Supreme Being : — Quo non arbiter Adriae Major, tollere scu ponere vult Ireta ! Nor llie land Tyrant of the western maiu Of power supreme tlic storm to raise. Or calmer smooth the surface of the seas ! Instead of attempting to describe Sidmouth with my own pen, I will present you with an ac- count obligingly drawn up by my friend, the Kcv. Mr. H — s, who accompanied me in this 7 SIDMOUTH. 5T journey. His residence at the place for many years, joined to the inquisitive turn of mind which he is known to possess, well fitted him for the delineation. " Sidmouth is seated at the bottom of the im- mense bay which is formed by the two noted headlands, Portland Point and the Start Point. It was, formerly, a place of considerable note, and possessed an ample harbour for shipping, and an extensive trade: but such have been the en- croachments of the ever restless ocean upon this part of our coasts, tliat its port is now lost, and its trade annihilated. Different geographers, speaking of this place, tell us that its harbour is now choaked up by sand ; but this is palpably an inaccuracy, as the harbour was certainly not formed by any inlet of the sea, and consequently could not be iilled up by tlie accumulation of ma- rine substances. The fact is, the land to the westward of the town, formerly projected far beyond its present lioundary into the sea, and probably formed a Bight-Bay, or natural pier, within which vessels sought refuge in time of danger. This supposition is the more plausible, as immense rocks are now seen at low water, stretching far from the point just mentioned, in a southern direction, and pointing out to the observino- eve an elisfible basis for the re-erec- tion of such a work : nay, more, there are those who can recollect a chain of rocks similar to the very picturesque one which yet rears its head and defies the bulietings of the waves, which followed E 38 JDVENILE TOURIST. edch other to the southward, till they were lost in the depths of the ocean ! But though no trace of the port tioiv remains, and even the remem- brance of it is swept awa^' by the tide of lime, this is by no means the case with respect to the commerce and spirit of enterprise whicii once animated this place. Tradition tells us that the pilchard fishery, that immense source of national wealth, was once carried on to a great extent by the natives of Sidmouth : that its hardy sons, with every returning season, sought their finny stores, and pursued them along the coasts of Cornwall, round the Scilly Isles, and even up the northen shores of their native country. Unhap- pily two succeeding unfavourable seasons over- took them, their boats were all cast away, their crews overwhelmed in the ocean returned no more. — Where the bustle and gaiety of business had adorned every countenance with smiles, no- thing was seen but sable weeds — nothing was heard but sighs and lamentations! The spirit which had animated this enterprising spot was cpienched at once, and of all its former celebrity, nought remained but the apparatus in w hich its merchandise had been prepared for the market ; ihe memory of what it once was, and the eccle- siastical records, ^hich detail to future incum- bents the plenteous tythc which their forerunners Ijad collected iVom the deep! ♦' It ought not to be forgotten that this spirit of enterprise was not the consequence of their peculiar situation : it is said, that when no longer SIDMOIJTH. 39 able to find refuge for the busy craft among their native rocks, the inhabitants of Sidmouth set on foot a liberal subscription, and with it erected a quay at Torquay, and hence their vessels, boats, and craft of every descri[)tion, take shelter from the tempest there, in time of distress, without paying the customary port duties which are ex- acted of all others, " At present, Sidmouth is only known as a place of resort for the valetudinary and the dis- sipated ; and to each of these it presents attrac- tions peculiarly inviting. Seated on the base of the two lofty mountains which form its charming vale, and closed up on the north by the Iloniton hills, it presents its bosom on]}' to the southern ray, and to the southern zephyr, and fanned by ^the pure breeze of the ocean alone, must, of course, be well calculated to redress the injury which filthy cities, crowded rooms, and mephitic vapours, entail upon mankind. In this respect Sidmouth claims a decided superiority^ over all its competitors for public resort. Here no filthy lagoons impregnate the atmosphere w ith j^oison- ous miasma ; no stagnant pools here putrify in the solar ray ; wherever there is water, it flows, and constantly crossing the traveller's path, tem- pers the sultry gale, gives fresh verdure to the luxuriant herbage which fringes its tinkling course, cherishes the thousand plants and fiowers with which every hedge-row is garnished, embalms the air, and revives the fainting energies of na- ture. The charming diversity for which Devon E2 40 Jl VENUE 1 OUR I ST. is tamed, seems here lo be collected into out point. Does the sated mind turn tVoin the mo- notony of the ocean r In the vale behind it, every thing is rich, luxuriant, and variegated, cal- culated to awaken the softest and most tranquil- lizing emotions in the bosom : the trees are here sel-n tiourishing even to the water's edge, with a verdure and luxuriance which is elsewhere un- known. Along the banks of the Sid, which, burst- ing at once from beneath -Ji mighty rock, mean- ders its three-mile-course to the ocean, we meet with all that beautiful variety of scenery which FeneloJi so richly describes in his Telernaque—mea- dows embroidered with flowers, fields waving with corn^ orchards laden with fruit ; while everytura in its fantastic windings, presents us with the delicacies of the landscape in some new point of view, adds some fresh tuft of trees, some littlt? murmuring water-fall, some straw-tiiatch'd cot- tage to the picture. Upon the mountain, the half-suffocated victim of fashion and midnight orgies, breathes the pure aetherial atmosphere ; and while h.is path is strewed with flo\\ers, gazes upon nature in some of her most elegant atti- tudes, and catches at one glance an extent of prospect, a variety of scenery which is almost unrivalled. " It has l)een debated to which of the adjacent summits the pa!ui of excellence in this respect is due, but the point can alone be determined by the peculiar taste of the beholder. From the eastern highlands the vale of Sidmouth is cer- AGREEABLE PROSPECT. 4t tainly seen to the most advantage, the perspective is undoubtedly confined, but it teeinswith luxury. The lavished eye looks down upon a landscape stretched out like a carpet beneath it^ whicli cen- tres within itself as much picturesque beauty as is collected withm an equal boundary in any coun- try upon the earth ! Here every thing necessary to an enchanting picture seems to be concentra- ted. Lands, rich and well cultivated, hedge-rows amply furnished with forest trees; mountains tipped with copse, bespotted with sheep ; here glowing with the gilded blossoms of the furze, and there finely tinted with the numerous vari- eties of the heaths,which flourish on their slopes; the whole decorated, not with ihe frowning avve- commanding mansions of the great, but b(>sprink- led with cottages, villages, and hamlets, with their white-washed spire peeping through the orchards that envelope and almost hide it from view. On the precipices which terminate ei- ther hill, the picture is uncommonly sublime and striking; from the eastern summit the eye ranges over a vast extent of country, and is only bounded at the distance of forty miles, by the rugged tors upon the forest of Dartmoor. Be- neath we see the Halidown Hiils^ the Start Point, the Berry Head, Torbay, with its ever shifting fleets; and in the clitfs we have,, " Pclioii upon Ossa," and " Caucasus upon Pehon," in tre- mendous masses heaped upon each other ! From the Peak we gaze upon the white clifls of Albion (and here take our leave of them) the south- E 3 4'i JlIVENflLli TOURIST. western course of Dorset, the Portland Isle, tvhich, like a bully, projects itself into the chan- nel, and seems to hurl defiance against the op- posite' shores. " In Sidmonth itself we have nothing which is worth noticing, if we except the church tower, which is certainly a fine piece of masonry. The tnodern erections are many, among the rest there is an excellent inn, a large and convenient as- sembly-room, billiard-room, and reading-room. On the beach a gravel walk of about one-third of a mile in length, has been constructed for the accommodation of the company; the bathing is commodious, and, for the convenience of the infirm, warm salt water baths have also been erected. Here the naturalist may find an ample field of investigation. The hills abound with plants, many of which are rare. In the clifl's numerous spars of different kinds are to be col- lected ; nor are the rocks deficient in materials f(;r study and amusement. Beautiful specimens of the Pholen are found imbedded in the marly foundations of the hills ; and blocks of free- stone, which have been broken from the summits of the cliffs, abound with echina? marina?, petri- fied coral, and man}' other productions of a simi- lar description, la the basons, worn by the action of the waves in the rocks, elegant coral- lines abound: and not unfrequently that singu- lar production of nature, the animal flower^ vul- garly called the ^ea anemone." REFLECTIONS ON THE SEA. 43 From this entertaining account of Sidmouth, by my friend, you will have it in your power to form a satislactory idea of the spot at which we were now arrived. As I am partial to the contemplation of the SEA, you will indulge me in a few reflections on my favourite subject. Tlie globe was originally distributed into land and water. The measure was wisely designed, and is appropriated to many important purposes. " The waters themselves/' says Derham, in his Physico-Theology, " are an admirable work of CJod, and of infinite use to that part of the globe already surveyed ; and the prodigious variety and mukiiudes of curious and wonderful things ob- servable in its inhabitants of all sorts, are an in- exhaustible scene of tlie Creator's wisdom and power. The vast bulk of sonie^ and prodigious minuteness of others, together with the incom- parable contrivance and structure of the bodies of all ; the provisions and supplies of food afford- ed to such an innumerable company of eaters, and that in an element unlikely, one would think, to afford any great store of supplies ; the business of respiration performed in a way different liom, but equivalent to what is in land animals ; the adjustment of the organs of vision to that ele- ment in which the animal liveth : the poise, the support, the motion of the body forwards with great swiftness, and u[) wards and downwards with great readiness and agility, and all without feet and hands^ and ten thousand tilings besides; 4i JUVENILE TOURIST. all these things lay before us a glorious and in- exhaustible scene of the divine power, wisdom, and goodness." Wliat a number of curious articles are here brouslit toifether : to what an extent of medi- tation miglit such topics be applied ! The sa/tiiess of the sea is a curious circum- stance, and even among philosophers it has oc- casioned much perplexity. I have consulted a variety of writers on the subject ; but the pre- sent Bishop of Landaff, in his Chemical Essays, has afforded me most satisfaction. From him, therefore, an extract of some length shall be given ; the young reader will be gratified with the particulars communicated — they are marked by a philosophical accuracy : — "1'here are lew questions respecting the natu- ral history of our globe, which have been discus- sed with more attention, or decided with less sa- tisfaction, than that concerning the primary cause of the saltness of the sea. The solution of it had perplexed the philosophers before the time of Aristotle ; it surpassed his own great genius;, and those of his followers, who have attempted to support his arguments, have been betrayed into verv ill-grounded conclusions concerning it. J'allier Kiir/ier, after having consulted three and thirty authors upon the subject, could not help rcnjarking, that tl>e fluctuations of the ocean itself were scarcely more various than the opini- ons of men concerning the origin of its saline impregnation. The question docs not seem car 6N THE SALTNESS OF THE SEA- 45 j)able of adniitting an illustration from experi- ment; at least no experiments have hitherto been made for that purpose, and tlierefore we may be tlie less surprised at its remaining nearly as problematical in the present age, as it has been in any of the preceding. Had there, indeed, any observations been made, three or four cen- turies ago, ascertaining the saltness of the sea, at any particular time and place ; v\e might, by making, at present, similar observations at the same place, in the same season, have been able to know whether the sa/tuess, at that particular place, was an increasing, decreasing, or any inva- riable quantity : and this kind and degree of knowledge would have served as a clue to direct us to a full investigation of this matter in gene- ral ; but it is to be regretted, that no such ob- servations have, till very lately, been made with any tolerable precision.— There are three princi- pal opinions on this subject, which have been maintained by philosophers of modern date. " Some, observing that river water, almost in every part of the globe, is, in a greater or less degree, impregnated with sea salt, have thought that the sea has gradualiy acquired its present quality of salt from the long continued influx of rivers. " Other philosophers, observing that large beds of fossile salt are not unfrequent in any quiuter of the globe ; and conceiving, with great pro- bability, the bottom of the sea to be analogous in its formation to the surface of the earth, have 46 JUVENILE TOURIST. undertaken to derive its saltness from the beds of rock salt, which they have supposed to be situated at its bottom ; and they are further of opinion, that without such a permanent saline principle, the sea would long since have become insipid from the fresh water poured into it by an infinity of rivers. Strange ! that what, accor- ding to the fore-mentioned hypothesis, was thought sulKcient to account for the saltness of the sea, should in this be esteemed instrumental in annihilating the saltness already supposed to exist. "Boyle unites, as it were, the two preceding hypotheses, and " takes the saltness of the sea to be supplied, not only from rocks and other masses of salt, which at the beginnmg were, or in some countries may yet be found either at the bottom of the sea, or at the sides, where the water can reach them ; but also from the salt which the rivers, rains, and other waters dissolve in their passage through divers parts of the earth, and nt length carry with them into the sea." Buffon, and the generality of philosophers, acquiesce in the opinion of Boyle. "After all, it may be observed, that we arc in- quiring into the cause of a phenomenon, which it may be said had no secondary cause at all. It is taken for granted in this disquisition, that the water w Inch covered the globe in its chaotic state, was not impregnated with salt as at present, but quite fresh ; now this is an opinion concerning a matter of fact, w hich can never be proved either DR. FORIJYCES VIEW OF THE SEA. 4? way ; and surely we extend our speculations yery far, when we attempt to explain a phenomenon, primeval to, or coeval wiih, the formation of the earth." After the enumeration of these particulars re- lative to the SEA, you will permit me just to call your attention to two writers, who have dwelt on this subject in a moral point of view. Dr. James Fordyce thus expresses himself in his view of the Sea, and the passage was forcibly •suggested to my mind, when contemplating the same grand object at Sidmouth. " In this place of security," says that elegant writer, " 1 view unaff righted, though not unavved, the majestic ocean, spread out before me. Stu- pendous image of thy power, Omnipotent Cre- ator ! nor less of thy benevolence. Universal Parent ! Was it not formed by thee to unite in bonds of mutual intercourse thy wide extended family of mankind ; to carry through various and distant nations the respective productions and discoveries of each, to relieve or diminish their mutual wants, and disseminate the blessings of religion and humanity unto the ends of the earth r But who can number the tribes or tell the diversity of living creatures with which thou hast replenished this mighty receptacle of waters, fitting all to enjoy their native element, and many to supply a rich wholesome nourishment for man .'' May he receive it with thanksgiving as one of those benefits that, when placed within his power, were intended to employ his industry 48 JUVENILE TOURIST. and strengthen him for th}' service ? Nor would I forget to acknowledge that benignant Provi- dence which hath, in so many other ways, ren- dered the same element conducive to health and comfort, by furnishing stores of salt to season and preserve our ffood, by refreshing the adjacent coasts with salutary breezes, by invigorating the weak and restoring the diseased, that bathe in its briny waves !" These observations are much the same as those suggested by Derham, only expressed in more elegant language, and sublimed by the fervor of devotion. They may, however, receive still further illustration from the lines of the late Mr. Sharpe, who, in a little piece, describing the beau- ties of the Isle of Wight, personifies the bles- sings of ISea-Bathing in these spirited lines: — See ruddy Health with caked bosom stand On jonder cliff, and wave the vigorwus hand Above llie banks, uitti florid cliecks tliat glo^v, Pointing triumphant at the tide below ! The pregnant tide wiih healing power replete, Where lit-alth, wjiere vigour, and whirc j..leasure nieet-j Here oci.an's breath conies mingled with the breeze, And driven far off the bloated frnnd Diseast j flere ocean's balm the sinking heart deiiglits, And drooping BntraiN to the shore invites; His essence here sliall energetic glow. And heahh and spirits on his sons bestow !• • See an excellent treatise on Sea Bathing, by Dr. Buchnn ; who wriies on the subject, not only scientit'ically but m a manner •which carniot fail of being useful to those visiting the sea-side for tUc restotutioD of Health. THE CHARACTEPt OF TUE DEITY. 49 The other writer to whom I alkided, as having dwelt on this subject, is the late Mr. Robinson, of Cambridge, who, by a reference to the sea, thus strikingly illustrates the character of the Deity : " Your fear o( God is excessive. The cause of this dread is a particular knowledge of God. Recollect what I said to you concerning knowing only ^yart of a subject. This is your case : you have attended to the judgments of God, to his threatenings against the wicked, and to that punishment which awaits them in another state : but you have not turned your attention to the MERCY of God expressed in his promises, and in his dispensations of goodness to others in your condition. Suppose I could take a person, one wlio had never seen the sea, and carry him in an instant to the sea-side, and set him down there ; and suppose tiie sea, at that instant, to be in a storm ; the great black and dismal clouds rolling, thunders bellowing, light- ning flashing, the winds roaring, the sea dashing len thousand watery mountains one against the other, the beach covered with shattered timber and cordage, merchandizes and corpses ; this man would instantly conceive a dreadful idea of the sea, and would shudder and shriek, and fly for his life ! It would be hard to give this man a pleasant notion of the sea, especially if he had been well informed that several of his relations • and friends had perished in the tempest ; yet this man would have but half sn right notion of the sea. For could he be prevailed up on to^o F 50 JUVENILE TOURIST. down to the beach a few days after, the liea- vens would smile, the air he serene, the water smootlijthe seamen whistling and singing; here a vessel of trade sailing before the wind, there a fleet of men of war coming into harbour ; yonder, pleasure-boats basking in the sun, the flute making melody to the breeze ; the compan}-, even the softer sex, enjoying themselves without » fear : this man would form the other JiofJ-iioliou of the sea, and the tuo put togetl/er, would be tlie Just and true idea of it. -Apply this to our subject. '' You have seen your heavenly Father reprove Adam, chide Moses, drown the old world, burn the cities of the plain, cause the earth to open and swallow up Dathan and his company, send a Joseph to prison, put a Jeremiah into a dun- geon, and a Daniel into a den of lions : you have seen him fell a Paid down to the earth, not only kill an Ananias and Sapphira upon the sj)ot, but strike a Zachariah dumb, and cleave the heart of even a Peter asunder with recollection and repentance; but, go back to these persons, and see a Paul preaching the faith which he once destroyed; a Peter begotten again unto a lively hope hij the resurrection of Jesus Chrid from the dead; — a Zachariah filled with the Holy Ghost, and singing, Blessed he the Lord (lod of Israel, through rchose tender mercy the day-spring from on high hath visited us, and hath delivered m out oj the hands of our enemies, that tee might serve him without fear in holiness all the days of our lives." TRUE RELIGION CHARACTERISED. nl You will join with me in admiring the appo- siteness of this illustration, since you have olten regretted that reli"ion should be ever clothed in the sable garb of melancholy. True JIf.ligion is the cheerful adoration of that great and won- derful being, by whose operations the iclicity of the whole intelligent, creation will be ultimately accomplished. For havino; thus contemplated the sea in its nrUurat and morat points of view, 1 shall ofler no apology; such considerations lead to early reflection and genuine piety. I remain, dear Sir, Your's, See. o2 JUVENILE TOUKItiT. LETTER IF. oM> fishehman ; DnArcnx of mackakkl ; homantic snr- ATION OF a FHIENO ; USCAMPMENT; SrDBUHV; LEACOS- uill; liVcnANTiNG prospect; tokbay ; ni voi.ui ion of WILLIAM, 1688; LANDING Of WILLIAM; NECLSSITY AND ADVANTAGES OF THE REVOLUTION; MEDAL OF THE REVO- LUTION' ; CIRCUMSTANCES OP WILLlAJl's VOYAGE ; ORIOINAl, ANECDOTE OF WILLIAM ; APOLOGETIC CONCLUSION. DEAR 6Ii?, Wandering one day on the beach at Sid, mouth early in the morning, I met with an aged fisherman, seated under the chff of a roci\, and employed (like James, the son of Zebedee, and John his brother, of old) in mending his nets, i entered into eonversation with him, and learnt from hiin many things with which I was unac- quainted. Among other particulars, he told me, tliiit these coasts had, of late years, been in a measure, deserted by the finny tribe. For this fact no satisfactory reasons could be assigned. This spirit of emigration, by no means uncom- mon, at present, amongst the human species, has, it seems seized the piscatory race ; nor is it yet ascertained to what shores they have betaken themselves. I gave this son of misfortune a trifle, for which he appeared grateful. Indeed I pitied the poor old man, who lamented the desertion, as it had been the occasion of narrowing the A DRAUGHT OF MACARKL. ,55 the means of his subsistence. On his brow was indented many a furrow, and his physiognomy assured me that he had, oftentimes, borne " the pitiless pelting of the storm !" Mackarel, however, are caught here in abun- dance. I saw a draught brought ashore one evening, and poured from the net into a bas- ket. 1 was struck with their appearance, and handled them, for their colours were beauti- ful. The silvery white was shaded by pur- pie dyes, and the agonies of dissolution pro- duced a thousand variations, marked by exqui- site delicacy. Upon my return from this scene, I found the band beloniiinor to the Sidmouth volaateers playing on the beach, which, com- bined with the murmurs of the " wide welterina: waves," generated pleasing sensations. The com- pany were parading backwards and forwards, the sun rapidly setting in the west, while, the approaching shades of darkness, admonished us that day was closing upon us, and the empire of night was about to be resumed. Indeed, at that .i^istant, to adopt the language of a celebrated female author, *' I contemplated all nature at rest; tlie rocks, even grown darker in their ap- pearance, looked as if they partook of the ge- neral repose, and rciMined more heavily on their foundations." The purport of my visit to Sidmouth v/as to enjoy the company of a valuable friend the Rev. ]\Ir. B whoj on accout of indisposition, had been obliged to quit the metropolis, and T 3 .54 JUVENILE TOUKIST. chose to retire into this part of tlie country. Him and hii aniiabfefnmi/i/ 1 found embosomed in a vale, (they are since removed to Sidmouth) which, for the softness of its air and the ricli- ness of its prospect, cannot be exceeded. Their mansion was neat and commodious; their view on the left extended towards the sea, and on the right was terminated by a rising hill ; whilst the declivity of the opposite mountain, inter- sected by inclosures, and spotted with sheep, imparted a picturesque scene to the eye of the "beholder. Near the foot of the door ran a ri- vulet; which, by its murmurs soothed the car, Knd by its transparency gratified imagination. About the distance of two fields above the man- sion, the sea beautifully unfolded itself to view between the hills, and vessels were appearing and disappearing, not wholly unlike the objects passing through a magic lantern; though cer- tainly the scene had no connexion with the lu- dicrous, nor were the objects transmitted with equal rapidity. At the top of the hill was an ancient encampment; but whether of Roman or Danish origin cannot be ascertained with cer- tainty. There is no doubt, however, that these coasts were infested by the enemy in the earlier periods of British history. From this eminence wc looked down on the other side into the little village of Sidbuiy, and its clustered cottages suggested to the mind those flattering images of feUcity, which we usually connect with rusticity. PROSPECT FROM BEACON IHLL. 55 My abode \vas at the house of my friend. Thence we often salhed forth to survey tlie ad- jacent prospects; but the weather was by no means favourable to our excursions. One fine day, however, we ascended the opposite eminence. Beacon Hill, clambering up its sidewith difliculty. Butits summit recompensed the toil which we had endured. Though unaccustomed to the art of drawing, yet seating myself upon a hillock, 1 was tempted to take a rough sketch of the cot- tage we had left, and of the hills with which it was surrounded. The whole scene before me might be likened to the representation of a camera ohscura, where the reflected images of objects are exhibited with neatness and accuracy. In our wandering onward, we stooped down and plucked many a ripe zchortle-herry from amidst the prickly furze which covered the ground, and the gathering of which affords to many poor persons the means of maintenance. We at length came to the brow of the hill, and stop- ping at the beacon, we, for some time, surveyed with astonishment the divine prospect which burst upon us from every quarter of the horizon ! Nor could it be pronounced altogether unlike the eminence whither Adam was led by the arch- angel Michael, to shew him what lay hid in the womb of futurity : A hill, Of Paradise the highest, from whose top Tiie hemisphere of earth, in clearest ken Strctch'd out to th' amplest reach of prospect lay 56 JUVENILE TOURIST. Before us the wide ocean extended its^elF, where, could our vision luive been invigorated, we should have spied the islands of Guernsey, Jersey, and Alderney, together with the opposite coast of France. On tlie left lay Sidniputh, whose vene- rable tower alone was visible to us, and beyond projected the Portlaiul Isle, rcniinding me of the unfortunate Haleswell Eastlndianian, whose fate is fresh in every mind. Behind, was seen a fine extent of country, from the centre of which the smoke of Exeter ascended, thus enabling me to ascertain the spot in which tlie western metro- polis was situated. Beneath us was a wood, whose embrowned appearance imparted a so- lemnity ; and it seemed, indeed, fitted for our Druidical ancestors, who were attached to these sylvan recesses. On the right, at the extremity of our prospect, Tor bay presented itself; and we could descry the little rock by which its en- trance is characterised. This group of objects, w hich, from this emi- nence, filled the eye and exhilarated the heart, I was unwilling to relinquisli ; it was the finest sight that I had ever beheld, combining the sub- lime and beautiful in perfection! Descending from this point, therefore, with lingering step, 1 stole many a farewell look, feeling the reproach suG;gested in the words of the poet O ! liow canst lliou renounce Ihe boandlcss store Ofcliarms, which naUire to her vot'ry yields! Tlie warbling woodland, the resounding shore, Tlie pomp ol' groves and garniture of fields t THE REVOLUTION. 57 All lliat Ihc gonial ray of luoiniiip: gilcH, .Ami all tlirit echoes to llie song of even ! AW that tlie mountain's shelt'ring bosom siiieMs, And all the dread m.igniticence of lieav'n, O ! how canst thou renounce, and hope to be forgiv'n ? BEAT TIE. The view of Torlwi/ cixWed up to my mind the glorious revohitioii of 1688; for i^//e?/e the hero William, with his followers, kmdefl November the 5th, a day to be revered in the annals of Bri- tish history ! The nrrival of our illustrious de- liverer chased away the shades of popery and arbitary power, which were thickening fast around the inhabitants of this island. Jnmes'wds a brutal bigot, and had forfeited the love and esteem of his subjects. But this great event is fully detailed in all our histories. With its cri- tical commencement, its pacific progress, and its happy termination, you are well acquainted. The improvements introduced at that time into the British Constitution, rendered it the object of admiration to the surrounding nations. In- deed the emendations which it then received, cannot be sufficiently estimated ; and the me- mory of those individuals who hazarded their lives and fortunes in that grand patriotic under- taking, stands endeared to posterity. The late intelligent Dr. Kippis, in his Centenary Discourse on the Revolution, preached at the Old Jewry, Nov. 5, 1788, states with clearness, the civil and religious advantages which were then acquired and secured to the inhabitants of Bri- tain. But, my young friend, though 1 would Alii JUVliNlLE TO I' HI ST. refer you for a circumstantial account of the re- volution to the |)ai;e of British history ; yet I beg leave to introduce to your notice an epitome. of the leading benefits which the immoutal William was tlie means of procuring to our beloved countay. By ProtcstuiUs and especially by Protestant Dissenters, they ought never to be forgotten. How far it may be proper that civil events should be recorded in a style imita- tive of the simplicity and solemnity of sacred history I do not pretend to say ; but certain it is, that this eastern mode of writing does, in some cases, produce an impression on the youthful me- mory. " And William was called the Deliverer, in as much as by him the land was delivered i'rom popery and arbitrary power, and the liberties of the people, both civil and religious, were settled and established upon a new foundation. The prferogatives of the crown were limited, and the rights of the subject were ascertained. Ji^'or the Lords and Commons of England, on the day that they oft'ered him the crown, ex- plained also the conditions on which he must accept it, saying, " Thou shall not suspend or dispense with layvs, or the execution of laws, by royal author- ity, without consent of Parliament ; it is illegal. " Thou shall not levy money for the use of the crown by pretence of prerogative; it is illegal. " Thou shall not infringe the right of the sub- jects to petition the King, neither shall thou per- BILL OF RIGHTS. 59 secute norcommitany one tor such petition : it is illegal. " Thou shall not keep a standing army within the kingdom, in time of peace, unless it be with consent of Parliament ; it is illegal, *' The election of Members of Parliament shall be free, and no freedom of speech and debate in Parliament shall be impeached or questioned in any place or court out of Parliament. " Excessive bail shall not be required, nor ex- cessive fines be imposed, nor cruel and unusual punishments inflicted. " Jurors shall be duly impanelled and re- turned. '* And finally, for redress of all grievances, and for the amending, strengthening, and preserving of the laws, Parliaments shall be fiequently held. And we, the people of England, do claim, de- mand, and insist upon all these things as our un- doubted rights and liberties. " And William was a wise Prince, and he ruled the kingdom with power and great glory." The particulars of this abstiact bear a reference to the grievances' which the nation had endiired under the turbulent reign of the Sfttarts. The friends of the revolution were unwilling thatthese scenes of tyranny should be again renewed. To use the language of the late Mr. Robinson, of Cambridge — "Hie law //oa? says of every sub- jec. Touch not the apple ofhh eye — I am his guard- ian and protector—wanton violence shall not escape v.'ith impunity," I am the more particu- 1 Co JUVF-MLE TOUIUST. lar ill thus glancing at the advantages obtained, because an infidel of political noloriety lias taken pains to traduce the character of ^\'ilMam, and to blast the laurels by which his head has been long and deservedly encircled. But every sen- sible and liberal-minded liln<>lishnian knows how to value the constitution ot" his country, con- sisting of King, Lords, and Commons, their reciprocal influence being dul}' poised and regu- lated. In spite therefore, of its imperfections, (which we trust will one day be mildly butefi'ec- tually remedied) let us exclaim, from a principle of esteem and gratitude, — Ilailj sacred pulily, l)y freedom rear'd ! Hail, sacred freedom, when by law restrain'd ! Without you, what were man ? a groveling lierd. In darkness, wrctcliedncss, and waiil encliain'd. Sublini'd by you, tlie Greek and Roman reigu'd In arts unrival'd. O ! to latest days , In vVli'ion, may your influence, unpiofan'd, To god-like worth the gen'rous bosom raise. And prompt the sage's lore and fire the poet's lay !* MINSTHEL. There were several curious medals devised to perpetuate this revolution. The following is the most expressive that 1 have seen. On one side is a bust of the prince, with this inscription, William III. hy the grace of God Prince of' Orange, Stadliolder of Orange and JVeU Frislatid ; and about the edges. Nan rapit Inipcriuni is, sed • See De Loltne on llit Constitution, a book of sterling merit, and replete with instruction to the rising generation. LANI)INC OF WILLIAM 111. 61 tiia liecepit — H e does n o t seize your em- pire BUT RECEIVES IT. Oil the leveise is a fleet, and the Prince on horse-hack, drawing up his landed troops. You liave also, in the bacic ground a female prostrate upon the eartli, hold- ing a sword in one hand and a pair of scales in the other, hereby .shewing that justice was op- pressed and trampled upon in England. A hero advancing towards her, relieves her, whilst above you read those words : terras J&tiea revisit — AsTERA REVISITS THE EARTH ! History informs us, that William embarked at Helvoets/nys, in Holland, on the^V.?^ of Novem- ber, 1688, the trumpets sounding, the hautboys playing, tiie soldiers and seamen shouting and a crowd of spectators on the shore, breathing forth their wishes for his success. Theusual,sig- nal being given, the fleet commanded by Admi- ral Herbet, weighed anchor with all possible di- ligence, being divided into three squadrons, on board of which w^ere about 14,000 troop?;, of divers nations. Rapin informs us, that Admiral Herbert led the van of the fleet, Vice-Admir»l Kvertzen brought up the rear, and the Prince placed himself in the main body, carrying a flag with English colours, and their Highnesses' arms, surrounded with this motto : — Th e Pr o test a n t Religion and Liberties of Engi.and; and underneath the motto of the House of Nas- sau;— Je Maintiendrai ; i.e. Izcill inMutain. On the 3d of November, being got within the North Foreland, and the wind favorable at east, G '6/2, JUVENILE TOtUlS'l. tliey made all the sail llicy could, steering a channel course. The Prince who led llie van, tacked about to see the rear >Yell come up, and having called a council of war between Dover and Calais, he ordered that his own standanl should be set up, and that the Heet should close up in a body: his highness, with three men ot ^var to attend him, one at some distance before the ship he was in, and one each side of hini, sailed forwards before the fleet. Next came the transports, victuallers, and tenders, with their decks covered with officers and soldiers ; and the main body of the men of war brought up tlic rear, ready to receive the enemy, if, as it was expected, they hadaltcin{)ted,to disturb their pas- sage. On the fourth of November, being Sunday, and the auspicious birth-day of the Prince, most people were of opinion that he would land either in the Isle of ^Vight, Portsmouth, or some- where in that quarter. But herein they were mistaken, for they continued sailing onwards ; passing by Dartmouth, 'the weather grew hazy, so that they overshotToRBAY, where the Prince designed to land. The weather, however, clear- ing up about nine, and the wind almost miracu- lously changing to the W. S. W. gave them en- trance into the Bay ! The people of Devonshire having discovered the fleet, flocked to the shore, not to oppose the Prince's landing, but to wel- come their dehverer with loud acclamations ! Dr. Burnet, afterwards bishop of Salisbur}', accompanied the Prince iu tlii,s expediliou j A NEC DOTE, (>n Jit5!i he has left on record particulars illm^trutive of this memorable portion ot'Brilish history. Dr. Watts also luis these lines on the subject : he lived at the tiine, felt the evils of tyranny, and exults in the emancipation with feelings honour- able to humanity. Tut If) ! the great Deliverer sails, Co!n.iii«sion'(J from JiiHovAii's hand, Aiul smiling seas and wishing gaits Convey him to the longing huid ! j Brigade-i of angels lin'd the way, A!i(l guarded WiUuim to the throne ; There ye celestial xvarriors stay, And make his palace like your own ! It is not, however, improbable that the Chris- tian Poet took the sentiment of the former stanza from Claudian's lines, which were applied to the Prince of Orange on this occasion: — - f niiiiitim defects Den, cid mUitat ather; Et cimjuratl vcniant ad ctaaica vciiti. Heaven's favourite ! to whom the skies assistance lend Whilst on thy sails conspiring winds attend. An anecdote was told me, relative to the land- ing of William, by a gentleman with whom 1 had the pleasure of dining in the neighbourhood of Sidmouth, but since deceased. It was handed down in the family from his ancestors, who took an active part on this occasion. A Mr. John Duke, of Otterton, a man of wealth and influence in that part of the country, joined the hero, on his arrival at Torbay. Being introduced into G 2 fj4 JUVENILE TOURIST. bis presence, William asked him to favour liim \vith liis name; he rephed, with u timid hesi- tation, John — BuKE — of Oilerton. The Prince expressed his surprize, and taking out a hst of the nobility from his pocket, which he had been led to suppose was correct, he looked over it, and then declared that no such Duke was to be found there ! The gentleman, however, soon obviated the dithculty, by repeating his name with an accelerated pronunciation, John Duke of Otterton. Every embarrasment being thus removed, William smiled at the mistake, and embraced him with joy. At pr£sent Torbay is a rendezvous for our fleets, and its little village Brixhum (where it is said the very stone on which William first step- ped ashore is still preserved) can boast of many vessels which trade in its fishery. The celebrated John Wilkes, in his Letters remarks — " We at last made Brixham qnaij, in Torbay, the place where King William landed. I was ready to fall on my knees on the facred spot, and could scarcely leave the holy steps on which he landed, to rescue a wretched people from slavery and the Stuarts. I was pro- voked to find no pyramid, obelisk, nor the least public memorial on such spot ; but I hope the memory of that event is engraved on the hearts of the people, who seem to me in that part of Devonshire very staimch to the cause of liberty !" You will not, my good friend, c«nsurc me for this digression. Could I have contemplated, PATiTIOTIC REFLECTIONS* 65' though atsoaic chstuuce, this fiimous spot, wliich, in my tye, at once formed a spectacle oi' pictures- que beautj^ and naiwnal ghrj/, without such feel- ings — j'ou might have accused me ot" a want of sensibility. An inditrerence to the events of our oicn history particularly to those in which the welfare and happiness of our fellow-<;reatures wej'e involved, is not enjoined upon. us either, by the dictates of reason or by the precepts of revelation. To abstract the mind from all local emotion" says the great Dr. Johnson, " would be impossible if it were endeavoured, and would be foolish if it were possible. Whatever with- draws us from the power of our senses ; what- ever makes the past_, the distant, or. the future, . predominant over the present,. advances us in the dignity of thinking beings. Far from me and my friends be such frigid philosophy, as may conduct us indifferent and unmoved over any ground which has been dignified^ by wi:idom,. bravery, or virtue. That r/ian is little to be en- vied, whose patriotism would notgain force upon, the plains of Maratlion, or whose piety would not grow warmer among tlie ruins of iona !" yVfter a fortnight's stay in this part of Devon- shire, 1 with, regret bid my friend, the Rev. Mr.. B , and his family, an adieu ; for tliey re- minded me of the group delineated by Thomson, who are said to have been blessed witu. An elegant sufficiency', content, . Retuement, rural quiet, friendship, booksy G 3 m JUVENILE TOURIST. Ease and alternate labour, useful life. Progressive virtue and approving heaven. 1 remain, tlcar Sir, Your's, &c. See an interesting Eicunion from SiHmouth to Chester, in the Summer of 1803, by the Rev. Ediuund l?utclier, — also two Vo- lumes o( Strmflns for Families, — by the same Author, wliicli are admirably adapted to promote mural and religious iraprovcineuL Nq serious Family sliould be without them. €7 LETTER V EXETEn; ITS antiquity; its castle; execution of pen- ruddock; assizes; trial of prisoners, and THiiin con- viction ; cathedral; anecdote or burnet; monument «r judge doduuidge ; singular jukv ; curious clock; painted window; dissenters; anecdotes of exlter ; description of HONiTON ; ITS church and chuhch-vabd ; A Quaker's meeting ; specijmens of natural history. DEAR SIR, IN my last letter a sketch was attempted of the rural beauties of Sidmouth and its vicinity- Scenery so distant from the metropolis, and of course so little known to the generality of our countrymen, boasts some degree of novelty, Happy should I think myself had I been success- ful in its description. But Exeter, justly pro- nounced the metropolis of the west of England j and Honiton, pleasingly situated, must now en- gage our attention. The town and the countri/ possess their respective charms ; nor should the advantages of either be fastidiously rejected. Exeter is an ancient city, and its name is a contraction of Excester, which signifies a Castle on the Ex. Athelstan one of the West SaxoQ kings, first gave it the name of Exeter; having,, before that period, been called Monckton, from the great number of ni -masteries with which it abounded. The Castlt "^ougemont, in this eity, is supposed to hav* .1 built by the West 66 JUVENILE TOURIST. Saxon kings, and to have been the place of tlieir residence. It lies on an eminence, whence opens- a prospect towards the English Channel, about ten miles to the south. The ancient part of the building is decayed; but on this spot, in a con- venient hall of modern erection^ are held both- the assizes and quarter-sessions. In the centre of the court by which it is surrounded, was be- headed Henry Peniuddogk, Esq. in the time of Oliver Cromwell, for having attempted to raise an insurrection in behalf of the exiled monarch Charles the Second. It is remarkable that, this gentleman (who was a native of Cornwall) had; nt the head of two hundred horse, entered Salis- bury, iVIarch 11, lC)7b, at the time of the assizes,, without opposition. Rapin informs us, that even the Ju'Jgcs and S/ier/J/"bc]ng seized on the occa- sion, were in danger of being hanged, for their, refusal to prockum the Kiiig ; who, notwithstand- ing, was proclaimed ! But not being joined by^ a sufiicient number of loyalists, they were soon routed, and an end put to tlie insurrection. In erases of this kind, a trifle turns the scale — had there been sufficient energ}' and spirit on the- occasion, with the most important consequen- ces might it have been attended. The State^ trials contain some [particulars relative to this business, which shew, that even CromweU was fearful of popular commotions,, and punished this trivial rising of the people with the utmost severity. It is rather singular that this event is unnoticed by Hume hi his History of England. EXETER. (>9- The iissizes were held at Exeter during my stay there before Sir Nash Grose and Sir Archibald Macdonald. I attended both courts, which were crowded. At the criminal bar I saw three men tried for. stealing stores from his Majesty's dock- yard at Plymouth. They were found guilty, after a trial of some hours. I conversed with them immediately after their conviction, and found them affected with their situation. They seemed unapprised of the enorrait}' of the crime they had committed, and, consequently, were unapprehensive of the serious consequences which followed. It is to be regretted, that bet- ter means were not devised for the promulgation of our criminal laws, in every parish throughout the kingdom. The principal crimes, with their punishments, ought to be inscribed upon a tablet, in legible characters, and so placed that it might excite universal attention. To prevent, rather than to punish crimes, should be the object of a wise policy ; nor will the humane mind ever suffer itself to be indifferent to the happiness of man- ki-nd. It is with pleasure, however, 1 witnessed the humanity of the jailor towards the unfortu- nate prisoners, in general ; lie sympathize. 1 with their distresses, and seemed to do every thing in his power which might ameliorate their sad con- dition. Tlie Q;oal itself is a lari>;e modern build- ing, a[)parently, well adapted to the melancholy purposes to which its apartments are appropri- ated. It is built upon the plan of the late Mr, Howard, whose intention it was, that punishment 70 JLVKiNlLE TOURIST. sliould elTect the rcforinaiion ol' the criinitiaK ludecti ihis can be tlie only raiioiial object of siurcrin^-, for savages alone delight in crueky. In L^xeter the catiicdral is almost the only ob- ject of ciuiosity. It ^vas 400 years in building, yet exhibits an astonishingunifoi mity : it is vault- ed throughout, 390 feet long and 74 broad ; it has a [)eal of beJls reckoncii the largest in all England, as is also its organ, the great pipe ot which is fifteen' inches in diameter. The dean and chapter occupj^ the houses round the cathe- dralj which form a circus, called the close, be- cause it is separated from the city by walls and gates. At the deanery King William slept, in his way from Torbay to London ; the bishop, (Dr. Lamplugh;) however, ran off to King James, and was, for his loyalty, made archbishop of York. The Sunday after the Prince of Orange had reached Exeter, Dr. Burnet mounting the pulpit in the cathedral, to read the Declaration, all the canons and i)art of the congregation left the church ! On the other hand, few offered their services, not but that the people were in- clined to the undertaking. It was the recollec- tion of the severities practised against the adhe- rents of the Duke of Monmouth, (whicli shall be particularly noticed in my next letter) that de- terred tiiem from engaging in the enterj)rizc. In short, the prince remained niiie day at Exeter, witliout being joined by any person of distinc- tion. It is even said, that in a council of war held in this city, he suffered it to be proposed to hiia l^R. DOPDTtr.lDGE. 7^ that he should re-embark for llollaiu!! On the tenth day,hovvever, Sir Edward Seymour, and ano- ther country gentleman, came to him, \vho ior- med an association, and whose energies contri- buted in no inconsiderable degree to the success ot" the revolution. On so small a pivot do the events of tliis world often turn, aikl surprising in- stances of tliis occur in the annals of mankincL Illustrations might be selected from sacred and profane history ; but let the young mind trace out for itself the process of cause and eftect: it will delight and invigorate the mind, while it consti- tutes the best part of natural and moral philo- sophy. In recesses of the Cathedral we saw monu- ments of antiquity; that oF Judge Doddridge attracted my attention, lie wasthcanceslor of the pious and learned Dr. Philip Doddridge; and Job Orton declares, that it is hard to say whether he were the better artist, philosopher, divine, com- mon, or civil lawyer. His epitaph inscribed upon his tomb is expressive : Learning adieu ! for Doddridge is gone To fix liis earthly lo a heavenly tlirone : Kich urn of learned dust ! scarce can be found More ivorth enshrined in six loot of ground ! A curious incident happened to tliis judge on one of his circuits, and it is recorded in the Har- lean IMiscellany. Judge Doddridge, at Hunt- ingdon assizes, 1619, had, it seems, reproved the Sheriff for having returned persons on the jury who were not of sufiicient respectability. Tlie ■Sheriff; however, took care, against the aext As- iZ JUVENILE TOURIST. sizes, to j>rcscnt the singular following lisl, at which the Judge smiled, applauding at the same time his indiistiy. ISJaximilian King of Tortland, Henry Pii)ice of Godmanchester, George Duke of Somcrsham, AVilliam Maiquis of Stukeh', Edward Earl of Hartford, Ivobert Lord of Warsley, Jiichard Baron of Bythorpc, Edmund Knight of St. Neot's, Peter Squire oi Easton, George Gentleman of Spaldock, Kobert Yeoman of Weston, Stephen Pope of Barham, Humphrey Cardinal of kimboltpn, William Bishop of Bugden, John yirchdeacon of Paxton, John Abbot of Slu kely, ]iiehard Priar of Ellington, Henry Monk of Stukely, Edward Priest of CJralfifliam, llichard Deacon of Calsworth, We ascended the principal tower of the ca- thedral, from the summit of which we were pre- sented with a prospect of Exeter, and the adja- cent country. The windings of the river Ex, added to the variety of the scene, whilst Top- sham, a bustling sea-port, situated upon its banks, yields advantages to the active and commercial part of the community. A curious clock is to be seen in the cathedral, the face exhibiting the Ptolemaic system ; which EXETER. "73 represents the earth in the centre, and the planets revoh'ing round it in succession. It has an odd appearance, but conveys an idea to the spectator of that arrangement of the planetary system Avhich was once admitted to be the true sys- tem of nature. The painted window, erected about thirty years ago, should not pass unnoticed, for it is reckoned one of the finest in the king- dom. It exhibits the twelve apostles at whole length, surrounded with the armorial bearings of the principal families of the county. It has been remarked that Peter, looking down over liis left shoulder, seems to frown upon the spiritual court. Let not this remark be deemed illiberal ; for Dr. Johnson, speaking of his tragedy Ihene, observing to a friend, that if his heroine had not suffered enough by the evils which had befallen her, he could still fill up the measure of her cala- mities, by putting her into the Spiritual Coiat at Litchfield ! The Bishop's throne also is an ex- quisite piece of workmanship, and so framed, that neither screw, nail, nor peg was employed hi its construction. Upon the approach of Oliver Cromwell to besiege the city, it was taken to pieces by the clerg}', sacredly preserved, and reinstated at the restoration. The library like- wise contains a good collection of antient divi- nity ; and the compartment of it, added by tha late Dr. Ross, bishop of the diocese, seemed well chosen ; he was, indeed, a prelate of learning and liberality. u 74 JUVENILt TOURIST. This CHthedral impressed me with sensations of solemnity. To use the language of Congicve, ill his Mourning Bride : — How reverend is the face of this tall pile, "Whose ancient pillars rear their indrble head. To bear aloft its arch'd and pond'rous roof, Ey its own weight madestedfast and immoveable. Looking tranquillity ! It strikes an awe And terror on my aphing sight ; the tombs And monumental caves of death look cold. And shoot a thrilling to my trembling heart. Give me thj' hand, and let me bear ihy voice : Kay, quickly speak to me, and let mc hear Thy voice — my owti affrights me with its very echoes ! The dissenters in this city are numerous, and have enjoyed the labours of Mr. James Pierce and Mr. Micaijah Towgood, two of their emi- nent advocates and ornaments. The former flourished there about the beginning of this cen- tury, and, though persecuted by some of his brethren, was a man of sound learning, irre- proachable manners, and sterling integrity. The latter was entitled to an appellation often be- stowed upon him — the Jpost/e of the J Vest ; for in him zeal and charity wei'e united. I saw his portrait at the house of his amiable successor, the Rev. Mr. M — ; his features were expressive of the virtues by which his soul was animated. It was painted by the late Mr. Opie, whose professional merits are acknowledged. Exeter taken altogether, is well worth the tra- veller's attention. It has one spacious street, called the Forc-sticct, of considerable length, EXETF.R. 73 atul conveys to the eye of the stranger an idea of respectahihty. The city had a mint ; and so late us the reign of King William, silver was coined here, distinguished by the letter E. placed under the Kind's bust. About one mile and a half with- out the east gate of Exeter, is the parish of Heavy Tree, thus expressively called from the gallows erected there for malefactors, and near it is a burial place for them, purchased in the reign of Edward the Sixth, by the widow of Mr.Tucker, Sheriff of Exeter, who also left money to procure them shrouds in which the poor wretches have been executed. They now, however, make their exit over the front door of the prison, by a drop, si- milar to that before Newgate. This city is said ' to have suffered by the resentment of Henry Courtenay, Earl of Devonshire, who, to revenge the disappointment of some fish from the market, by wiers choaked up the river below Exeter, "which before brought up ships to the city walls, so as to obstruct the navigation of it. The in- jury, however, has by means of an artihcial chan- nel been in a measure, remedied. Such was the trade of this city in serges, druggets, kerseys, and other woollen goods, that it was computed at six hundred thousand pounds per annum ! Vast quantities of these articles used to be shipped off fol- Portugal, Spain, Italy, Holland, and Germa- ny. . Nor should we omit to mention the Hos- pital for the sick and lame poor, both for the city and county. It was founded by Dr. Alu red Claik, Dean of Exeter, and the first stone was h2 70 JUVENILE TOURIST. laid the S7th August, 1741, by him, accompanied by the Bishop and a number of the neighbouring clergy, who were subscribers, besides ^ome thou- sands of spectators. Such institutions are ho- nourable to humanity. For charitable eft'orts to relieve human misery, this island has long been famous ; and may Britain continue for ever thus to be dislinojuished anions: the nations of the earth ! Exeter is remarkable for three things ; that it has for its motto, Semperjidelis, always kaixh- FUL — that of its twenty churches in the city- and suburbs, thirteen of them were, in the lime of Oliver Cromwell, exposed to sale by the common cryer ; and that it has given birth to Sir Thomas Bod ley, the founder of the famous Bodlean Li- brary, at Oxford. Quitting Exeter, I reached Ilonitan, at the dis- tance of fifteen miles, a pleasant town, being one long street, in which are to be found many good houses. In the midst of it, however, stands a row of tottering shambles, whicli, were they should- ered dowji, would heighten the beauty of the place. Through the town runs a stream of clear water, with a little square dipping place atcvery door. The first serge manufactory in Devonshire was in this town ; but it is now employed in the manufacture of lace, which is made broader here than any where else in England ; and of which great quantities are sent to London. A specimen of lace has been shewn, the thread of which it was fabricated cost the manufacturer HONITON. 77 upwards of n'metij guineas a pound at Antwerp ; also ladies' veils are made and sold from ten to se- venty guineas ! A dreadful fire happened here 1747, by which three-fourths of the town were consumed. By this, and similar accidents, how- ever, the place has been eventually benefitted ; for the houses which are rebuilt are said to be neater in their appearance and more commodious to the inhabitants. This was the case, indeed, with London, which was nearly consumed in the ter- rible fire of 1666, — it rose like a fair and beauti- ful Phoenix out of its ashes ! The parish-church of Honiton stands pleasant- ly on a hill above the town, whiiher I had an agreeable walk ; the edifice presented an antique appearance, and there were tombs within the walls, which contained the bones of persons of distinction^ Around one of the pillars was entwined the following sentence : Froi/Jbr the soul of- — the name was almost obliterated. It had evidently been. inscribed there in the days of Popery, pre- vious to the period of the Reformation. The qhurch-yard was crowded with graves ; and at the entrance of one of the side-doors was shewn me the spot where lay the remains of the Rev„ Dr. IVilliam //«/775, (who died 1 770,) author of the Lives of the Stuarts. He resided in Horn Ion for many years, and sustained a cliaracter of res- pectability. He pubhbhed an Historical and Critical Account of the Life of James tiie Fir.t, of Charles the First, of Oliver Crorawtll, of Hugh Peters; and of Charlej the Second, in two volumes. H 3 7d JUVENILE TOURIST. He began the Life of James ihe Second ; but the materials left behind him were too scanty for publication. Ihavetiius enumerated his publi- cations, because hiy Life of Charles the Second n omitted in the list of his productions, with which we are furnished, in the late new edition of the Biographical Dictionary. The plan of these, lives is similar to that of Bayle's Dictionary,.. where the textis short, but accompanied with not^s, in- cluding copious illustrations. Mr,. Hollis, his munificent, patron, has thus charact^uizod his la- bours — " All his works have been well received, and those who differ from him in principle, still Ajalue him in point of industry and faithful- ne&s." . . . This country. church-yard seems to have been of that rustic cast which might have inspired the mirse. of a Gray. In walking round it my eye was fixed on a row of graves, over which were raised tlie grassy turf, and on which the setting sun shone with splendour ! During my stay at Honiton, I had an opportu- nity of being present, one Sunday evening, At a meeting of itinerant Quakers. Curiosity drew together a crowd of people who poured into the General Baptist place of worship, which was lent the Friends for that purpose. Two wo- men and a man, from America, held forth aa this occasion. One of the women spoke wellj indeed he? countenance conciha^d attention. Her features were marked by a pleasing so- lemnity, and her maimer^ though not i'l-^e from HONITON. 79 the usual tone, was characterized by simplicity. The harangues of the two others were tedious, and the audience discovered signs of impatience by indecently beating their feet on the floor, long before the meeting came to a conclusion. In spite of the eccentricities of the Quakers, we cannot but admire their hatred of war, and their detestation of Slavery : — The purest wreaths which hang on glory's shrine. For empires fouudcd, peaceful Penn ! be ihine; No blood-stain'd laurels crown'd tliy virtuous toil ; No slaughter'd natives dreiich'd t]iy Cair-earn'd soil. Still thy meek spirit in thy li'ock survives. Consistent still t/it'jr doctrines rule their lives ; Thij followers onl^' have efFac'd the shame Iiiscrib'd by sLAVi- ky on the Christian narae ! MORE. The, oiilj/ in the last line but one, is now hap- pily incorrect, as the British Parliament has also effaced the shame hy the abolition of slavery. At Honiton, Mrs. H — , the worthy niece of the late Dr. William Harris, shewed me a curious Latnibook of her uncle's, printed in the time of the Protectorate, and executed with typographical beauty. It contained an extravagant panegyric on the character of Oliver Cromwell, and Was decorated with a striking likeness of that celebra- ted man on horseback. The resemblance be- tween the two Latin terms, Olivus, an olive-tree, and Olivems, Oliver, is the foundation of this very complimentary performance. Accordingly the frontispiece exhibits a fine lofty olive-tree, on the trunk of which near the root, is inscribed in 80 JUVENILE TWUItlST. large letters, 0/ivcnis ; and on its numerous branches, stretching themselves forth on either •side, are engraven the chief virtues which adorn humanity. The author having informed us, at the commencement of the treatise, that by the trunk is meant Oliver Cromwell, a^ whole chapter is assigned to each of the virtues, shewing that they are «//, in their plentitude, centered in this great man ; and that, therefore, he is entitled' to universal admiration ! This curiosity convin- ced me, that an excessive adulation of men in. power, is by no means peculiar to monarchical: governments. Nor must I omit to inform you, that a gentle- man in this neighbourhood, at whose house I passed an agreeable day, favoured the company with a sight of some fossils, in which the taste of the selector was conspicuous. By particular re- quest, several botanical sketche»were also brought out for inspection.. The investigation of the beauties of nature is a laudable employ ; to the Supreme Author such an exercise of our powers is a tribute of praise, and to the contemplator of them it yields an heartfelt satisfaction. When we thus rise from fossils to vegetables — from ve- getables to animals — from animals to Man, it amounts to a full proof of Deity. To talk of Chance insults the human understanding — it is a term invented to conceal our ignorance. Caa O«o.? produce spontaneously this fair form of na- tuie .'' Can Fate arrange the various movements of the material creation with such delicacy and PROOFS OF THE DEITV. 81 haruiony ? Can a mere nullity conduct and sus- tain a system tluis o[)ei-ating with design and re- gularity? It cannot be — for since this beauteous world \Vas rais'd b_y God, bis Puovidence must rule The vast niacliinc. — Chance is an idol toy Eor I'ools to play with : — Should fix'd nature change Her well-known course, and vary from the laws That guide the system — should the elements, AVhereof all things in this our lower world Aie formed, desert the station \\ Iiich they hold In concert with the whole — should the great frame Of that bright heavenly arch, which o'er our heads Shines with refulgent light, give way, and feel A dissolution — should celestial spheres Forget iheir wonted course, and devious turn. As Chance misguides — should the bright lamp of hcav'ji" Withdraw his light, and the pale wandVing moon Mistake her well-known path — should seasons mix Jn wild confusion, or expiring minds Breathe their last gasp — should earth's fair fruitage droop Like children on the wither'd breasts that fail Of proper food — should Chance or Fortune reign V/iih arbitrary sway — what woulrl become Of Man himself, for whom these things are made? Idle surmise! There is a living Go© Who rules supreme, under whose brooding uing All Naiuke Rtsrs secure! SOCRATES. I remain, dear Sir, Your's, 5cc. 82- JUVENIbE Torn 537. LETTER VI. 7AVVtOV ; 0T1IG7N OF ITS NJMKJ CHAHMINO SITr'ATIOW;. MANUFJCTORF.S,; SINGUX;An MODE OF ELECTION J UH. TOULMtN's HISTORY OF TAUNTON; MONMOUTh'S REBELLI- ON; THE UVKE eilOWNED HING; HIS DtFEAT AN-D EXECU-- TION; DARUAniTIES OF JEFFERIES AND KIRRE TOWAUDS MIS FOLLOWERS; ANTCDOTfcS OF JEFFERIE!: INSClllPTlOS av SOUTHEY; REIl.tCTlOCS ON CRUELTY-. DEJR SIE, JVlY filerid having joined me at Honlton^ we next day proceeded cigiileea miles onwards to- wards Taunton, in the county of Somerset. The road was pleasant, and on the right a neat man- sion wr.s pointed out to mc as tlie birth-place of our late premier, the Ilojioiirabk Henry u-Jilding- toJi, now Lord Jiacount Ki'uhnouth ; his being a native of this part of the island may account for his having taken the title by which he is distin- guished. His short-lived administration, how- ever the subject of animadversion to jarring and opposite parties, was conducive to peace and to prosperity ! Taunton, is a corru{)tion of the original name, 'I hone Town, or Tone Toxcn, which is de- rived from its situation upon the banks of the river Thone or Tone. It is 145 miles from Lon- ciou, has been termed the key of the West of TAUNTON. S3 England, arid Camden calls it one of the eyes -of the county. It is situated iu one of the rich- est vallies in the kingdom. The beauties of the vale of Taunton-Dean are every where known and admired. Tiie town itself is pleasant, the streets are spacious and handsome, while the lofty towxr of St. Mary Magdalen, strikes the eye with grandeur and majesty. A castle was built here by one of the Bishops of ^Vinchester, to the prelates of which see, this town and dean- ery belonged, even before the conquest. It was a building of extent ; and in the hall, which, wiili the outward gate and porter's lodge, are still standing, are held, for the most part, the assizes for the county. In Taunton many persons are engaged in the manufacture of serges, duroys, shalloons, and other woollen stuffs, in the wea- :ving of which 1 100 looms are said to have been once employed ! The silk manufactory, however, -now begins to flourish here, and must contribute to its prosperity. The town is indebted to the ac- tivity of the late Sir Benjamin Hammet, a native of this place, for its modern improvements. Here are two parish churches, and several res- pectable dissenting places of worship, a well en- dowed grammar-school and alms-houses. The election of members of parliament here is singu- lar: for every potical/opper, that is, all who dress their own victuals, are entitled to be ranked among the voters. Hence the inmates or lodgers, on the eve of an election, have each a fire in the street, at which they dress victuals publicly, lest 84 JUVENILE TOURIST. their votes should be called in quesLion ! In the reign of William, the river Tone was made na- vigable for barges, from Taunton to Bridgovvater. The Rev. Henri/ Grove, was a native of this town; he was the author of many excellent pieces, and particularly some papers in the eighth volume of the Spectator. He is much esteemed for his ta- lents, learning, and piety. Of the rise, progress, and state of this town, the worthy and intelli- gent Dr. Toulmin, (now of Birmin2;ham,) in his History of Taunton, has given much curious in- formation. Taunton was the grand centre of the Duke of ^lonmouih's Rebellion, inthe reign of James the Second, for in this town, he was proclaimed king, and a company of young giris, from ten to tvvelve^'ears old, with chaplets of flowers on their lieads, presented a Bible to iiim oa the occa- sion. A respectable old lady living near me at Is- lington, told me lately that her grand mother was at school in Taunton, along with these young la- dies, but her father had fetched her away before the Duke reached the town : thus did the daucrh- ter happily escape the treatment which the school afterwards received from Judge JefFeries, who conducted himself towards the seminary with the utmost ferocity. As the excessive punishment of the insurgent* is thought, by the English historians, to have hastened the glorious Revolution of \&^Q\ a few ^particulars may prove acceptable to the rising THE DUKE OF MONMOUTH. 83' generation. A hatred of tyranny, and a sense of the superior freedom we now enjoy, are amongst the best legacies we can beqn<=arh to a succeed- ing generation. The Duke of Monmouth v.a^ the ille2:itimate son of Charles the Second, and of course, the nephew of James the Second. Having, for state reasons, been exiled into Holland, he there form- ed apian of invading this country in order to displace James, on account of his attachment to Popery. The purport of the insurrection, was to aid and support the Protestant Religion, 'vhich was at that period, not only endangered, but in a fair way of being destroyed. Tlie Duke of JMoninouth landed at Lyme, June 11, l6S5, was proclaimed King at Taunton, the 20th, and totally defeated at Sedgemoor, near BfliDGE-wATEK,the5thof July. Thus terminated •a rebellion rashly undertaken and feebly con- ducted. The unfortunate Duke who fled from the field of battle, till his horse sunk under him —was found in a ditch with raw peas in his pock- et, on which he had, for days, subsisted ; and, when seized by his enemies, burst into a flood of tears ! He was carried to London, and beheaded on Tower-Hill the 15th of the same month ; iive strokes of the axe, owing to the timidit}- of the executioner, being necessary to the severing of his head from his body ! He died lamented by the English people, who followed him to the .scaf- fold with sentiments of deep commiseration. The failure of this expedition of the Duke of 1 so JUVENILE TOURIST. Monmouth, is ascribed by liistorians to a variety of causes. Some attribute it to the departure of Fletilierof Salton, an able man, ^v■ho afterwards accompanied William ; otliers declare lluit the Duke was betra3'ed by his own general, Lord Grey, a worthless character, Avho piuchased his life on the occasion, but a few years alter laid violent hands on himself. In the month of September, iGBo, JefFeimes was sent down into the West to try, or rather hutcher the delinquents ; he was accompanied by Colonel Kirke, a brutal officer, who vied with the judge in deeds of blood. His ruffian sol- diers, he, in derision of the cruel acts they per- petrated, christened by the name of his lambs! A story is told of him which outrages the fccl- ino-s of humanity. He, at this time debauched a young lady, on the condition of saving her brother, who was a rebel, but whom he next morning hung opposite her chamber window ! Pomfret, in his poem, entitled Lust and Cruelty ^ has told this story in strains which cannot fail of impressing us with its unparalleled infamy. The story, I am aware, has been differently re- lated, and therefore its truth is supposed to be invalidated. But Dr. Tuulmin, in his Appendix to the History of Taunioii, has so judiciously stated the particulars, w ith the objections, that no doubt of its reality can attach itself to the imprejudiced mind. Rapin, indeed, whose, great aiierit is impartiality, remarks, that, " It was not possible for the King to linc>in the whole king- COLONEL KIllKE. 0( flom two men more clostitute of religion, honour, 111(1 humanity ; Je/Jericsund /v/?7ct' were two cruel iiul merciless tygcrs, iluit delighted in bloods Jcfferies himself g-loried in his barbniiiy, und boasted, on this occasion, that he had hung more men than all the judges in Engi;ind since William the Conqueror! Kirke was not behind JefFeries in cruelty and insolence. Immediately after the Duke of Monmouth's defeat, being sent to Taunton, he caused nineteen persons, by his own authority, without any trial or process, uid without suffering their wives or children to speak with them, to he hanged, with fifes play- ing, drums beaiing, an'l trumpets sounding. Ir: i'.ie same town of Taunton also, Knke having in- vited his officers to dinner, ordered thirfj/ con- demned persons to be hanged, whilst they were at table, namely, ten in a health to the King, tea in a health to the Queen, and fen in a health to .lefferies !" Of the history of this Kirke little i« known : after the revolution he was employed l)y llilliam, a circumstance to be lamented. He had the command of the squadron destined to relieve Londonderry, and miglit, (according to Bishop Burnet) have roliev^ed the besieged a few months sooner, thus e.Tectually preventing the calamities of famine, which they nobly endured. What became of this miscreant, uhere he after- wards lived, and //oci' he died,no history seems to have recorded. Provielence, in its wise manage- ment of human affairs, takes care that such cha- racters should either be engulphed in oblivion, I 2 88 .lUVENILB TOURIST. or held up by the Historian lo the dcteiitation oi posterity. At Winchester^ the venerable Lady Lisle was tried j'or harboining one of the Duke's party, though his name was in no proclamation. The jury brought her in notguiliy ; .lefferies sent (hem out in a fury, they found her not guilty three times ; but the judge threatening them with an attaint of jury, she was brought in guilty, and executed, being iipWcirds of sat7i(// years of age !, Ti.'e only favour granted was, that the sentence of burning was changed into beheading. A gen- tleman also of respectability, was condemned to be whipt once ayear, during his life, through «// ihe towns of Dorsetshire; the poor man petiti- oned the King to he hanged ; and his Majesty, struck vvitii the request, pardoned him. This gentleman afterwards lived to visit Jelferies in the Tower, when, upbraiding liim with his cruel- ly, the judge's only re[)ly was, that he had not exceeded his commission ! But instances of bar- barity are witkout number. Indeed the cruellies exercised on the unfortunate men were of that atrocious complcetion, that they produced in the minds of Britons an abhorrence of those agents by whose influence they had been per- petrated. Let us, now, however, attend to Jeffeiuks, ii\hose name will not be forgotten in this j)artof the islanrl. I lis conduct on this occasion re- minds me of Karidoipli, an Earl of Murray, who having, at one time, executed ///(y delinquents, JEFFEGiES AND KIRKE. 8D is said to have had as mucii pleasure in secinci; their ghastly heads eneiicle the walls of his castle, as it" it had been surrounded \vith a cluiplet of roses ! Cirainger calls Jeffeiies a murderer in the robes of a Lord Chief Justice^ steeping his er- mine in blood ! A passage out of two old books, written at the time, here shall be transcribed^ for the expressions glow with an eloquent resentment. They both relate to Jefferies, and shew that he was held in lUter detestation. " Had the great Turk," says Mr. Turner, a clergyman of the church of England "sent his janisaries, or the Tartar his armies," among, them, ihcy had escaped better. Humanity could not offend so far, to deserve such punishment as Jefferies inflicted. A certain barbarous joy and pleasure grinned from his brutal soul thou'gh his bloody eyes, whenever he was sen- tencing any of the poor souls to death and torment, so much worse than Nero, since that monster wished, he had never learned to write, because forced to set his name to warrants for the execution of malefactors. Jefferies would have been glad if every letter he writ were such a warrant, and every word a sentence of death. He observed neither humanity to the dead nor civility to the living. He made the West an aceldema, some places quite depopulated, and nothing to be seen in them but forsaken walls, unlucky gibbets, and ghostly carcasses ! The trees were laden almost as thick with quarters a? 1 3 90 JU\ ENILE TOURIST. with leaves. The houses and steeples covered as cK)se with heads, as at other times frequently in that country with crows or ravens. Nothing could be liker Hell than these parts, nothing so like the Devil as n e ! Caldrons hissing, carcasses boiling, pitch and tar sparkling and glowing, blood and limbs boiling, and tearing and mang- ling, and HE the great diuectoh of all ! In a, word, discharging lih place who sent him ; the most deserving to be the late king's chief justice there, and chancellor, of any man that breathed since Cain or Judas." To render this passage the more intelligible, it should be remarked, that the bodies of these Tictims having been first decapitated and em- bowelled, were boiled in cauldrons of pitch and tar, in order to decorate the gibbets, which the Ibarbarians were at that time busily erecting in almost every part of the country. The limbs of a beloved parent, of an aftectionate brother, or of u dutiful son, were thus exposed on the high roads, at measured distances, exciting at once emoti- ons of horror and itidignation in the breast of the passing traveller. A copy of a icarrant for one of these savage executions may be seen in that ingenious work the lliston/ of Bath, by the Rev. R. Warner, who mentions the circumstance iti terms of just severity. The other passage is poetry, but the lines are not less exprcBsive. They are supposed to have been written in tiie shades, and are addres- sed toJKTi EKIKS ; JEFFERIES AND KIRKE. 91. And see, if terror has not struck thee blind, See here a'.ong a gluisily train bcliind ! Far, I'ar from utmost West they crowd away. And hovering o'er fright back the sickly day. Had the poor wretches i/^ji'ri as much as thee. Thou shuuldst not have forgot humanity .' Whoe'er in blood can so much pleasure take, Tlio' an 'd\ judge, would a good hangman make. Each hlaioos in thy ears — Prepare ! prepare ! For what thou must — vet what thou canst not bear. Each at thy Iwart a bloody dagger aims. Upwards to gibbets points, downward to endless flames ? These passages being written about the time these transaciioas took place, can be the only apology for the resentment by which they are characterized. The fortitude witii which these unhappy men died, reminded the spectators of the martyrs, who joyfully expired amidst aggravated torments in the first ages of Christianity. It is also remarka- ble, that the most eminent of the sufferers fore- told with their last breath the termination of this violent and bloody business in the glorious Re- volution. For, let it be recollected, that this hor- rible tragedy took place in lGS5, and upon the arrivrJ of our illustrious William in l(iB8, the principal authors of it were scattered to the ends of the earth ! It is computed, that for this Kebellion of about four weeks, three hundred and thirtij-one were lianged in diflerent parts of Somerset, Dorset, and Devon ; eight hundred and fifty were sold for slaves to his Majesty's plantations in i^niericaj 92 JUVENILE TOURIST. ixnd Jour Jiiindrcd and eight were fined, whipped, and thrown into prison, till either death or the revolution released thein! Otliers have estimated, that the whole of those that died on this occa- sion, either in battle or in prison, or by the hands of the executioner, together wiiii those that otherwise suffered in their })ersons or fortunes, amounted to more than two thousand! The j4ppendix of Dr. Toulmin's History of Taunton, contains an ioteresing sketch of this insurrection and of those agonizing scenes with which it was succeeded. Nor will it be improper to remark-, that Daniel De Foe was engaged in this rebelli- on, and escaped. Milton, also, a few years be- fore, at the Restoration, freed himself from the liazardofan execution by concealment. It is re- markable, that the authors of liohiiison Crusoe, and of Paradise Lost, should have been thus ex- posed to such danger in the cause of liberty, and surviving it, should have written two of th<^ most entertaining and instructive works in the Eng- lish language ! Jeffrhi Es, upon his return from the West, ■was made Lord Chancellor of Lngland, and ho- noured with every species of courtly approba- tion. In the new edition of the l)iographical Dic- tionary is to be found the follovving sketch of the life of tliis monster. I shall introduce it here, because it imparts a just idea of the man, and contains at least one good trait for the sake of humanity. " Lord George Jefferies, Baron Wcm, JUDGE JEFFERIES. 93 commonly known b}' tlie name of Judge Jefie- vies, was the sixth son of John Jeffeiies, Esq. of Acton, in Denbighshire, lie was educated at Westminster Scliool, where he became a pro fi- fieutin ilie learned languages, and was thence re- moved to the Inner Temple, where he applied hiuiself assiduously to the law. His father's fa- iiiily vvas large, and his temper parsimonious, con- secjuently the young man's allowance was scanty, and hardly suHicient to sup[)ort him decently; but his own ingenuity supplied all deficiencies till he came to tli€ bur, in whicii, as it isaHirmed by some, he had no regular call, in '\66o, he was at the assizes at Kingston, where verv few counsellors attended, on account of the plague tlien raging. Here necessity gave him permis- sion to put on a gown, and to plead, and he con- tinued the practice unrestrained till he reached the highest empioymenls in the law. Alderman Jefferies, a namesake, and probably a relation, introduced him among the citizens ; and, being a jovial bottle-companion, he became popular amongst them, came into great business, and was chosen their recorder. His influence in the city, and his readiness to promote an if measure zcithout reserve, introduced him to court, and he was ap- pointed the Duke of York's Solicitor. He was active in the Duke's interest, and car- ried through a cause which vvas of consequence to his revenue: it was for the right of Penny- Post Office. He Vvas first made a judge in his native county, and in i6bO w^as knighted, and 94 JUVENILE TOURIST. mode chief justice of Chester. When »lie par- iiameiit began the pioseculion of tl>€ abhorrers, he resigned the recorder.ship, and obtained the place of Chief Justice of the King's Bench, and soon after th.e accession of James the Second, the great seal. He was one of the greatest ad- visers of all the arbitary measures of that luihap- })y and tyranuicai reign, and his sanguinary pro- ceedings against Monmouth's adherents in the West, kUI ever render Ins name infaaious ! There is, however, a singular story of him in this ex})edition, which tends to his credit, us it shews that when he was not under state inflaencc, he liad a proper sense of the natnvfti and c/ii7i;jghts ,. of men, and an inclination to r?r(;t?ct th-nn. Tlie ■ mayor, aldermen, and justices of Bristol, had been used to transport convicted criminals to the Ame- rican Plantations, and sell them by way of trade,, and finding the commodity turn to account, they contrived a method to make it more plentifuL. Their legal convicts were but few, and the ex- porlations inconsiderable. When, therefore, any- petty rogues were brought before them in a judi- cial capacity, they were sure to be threatened with hanging; and they had some diligent ofli- ccrs attending, who would advise the ignorant intimidated creatures to pray for transportation, as the only way to save them, and in general the advice was followed. Then, without any more form, each alderman in course took one and sold him for his own benefit, and sometimes warm • dis[)utes arose amongst them abo.ut the next turn, JUDGE JEFFERIES, {)B This trade had been carried on unnoliced many years, when it came to the knowledge of tlie Lord Chief Justice ; who, finding upon enquiry, that the mayor was equally involved in the guilt of this practice with the rest of his brethren, made him descend from the bench, where he wa? sitting, and stand at the bar in his scarlet and furs, and plead as a common criniiiKil. He then took security of them to answer informations, but the amnesty after the Revolution stopt the proceedings, and secured their iniquitous gains. '* North, who (in his Lives of the Lord Chan- cellors) informs us of this circumstance, tells us likewise, that when Jefferies was in tenq^er, and matters indifferent came before him, no one bet- ter became a seat of Justice. He talked Huently and with spirit, but his weakness was, that he could not reprehend without scolding, and in such Billingsgate language as should not come from the mouth of any man. He called it " giv- ing a lick \Nith the rough side of his tongue." It was ordinary to hear him say — " Go, you are a Jiltliy, loMy, nitty rascal " with much more of like elegance. He took a pleasure in mortifying fraudulent attornies. His voice and visage made him a terror to offenders, and formidable indeed' to all. A scrivincr of Wapping having a cause before him, one of the opponent's counsel said, that "he was a strange fellow, and sometimes went to church, sometimes to conventicles, and none could tell ^vhat to make of him, and it was ^6 .1UVENILE TOURIST. thought lie was n Trimmer T At ihis the chan- cellor fired : "A Tiwuner T said he, " I have heard much of that monster, but never saw one : — Come forth Mr. Trimmer, and let me see vour shape." He treated the poor fellow so roughly, that wlien he came oul of the hall he declared he would not undergo the terrors of that man's face again to save liis life, and he shouKl certainly retain the impressions of it as long as he lived?' ** Afterwards, when the Prince of Orange came, and all was in confusion, Jcft'eries being very ob- noxious to the people, disguised himself in order to go abroad. He was in a seaman's dress, t\nd drinking a pot in a cellar J The scrivener, whom he had so severely handled, happening to ■come into the cellar after some of his clients, his eye caught that face which made him start ; -when the chancellor seeing himself observed, feigned u cough, and turned to the wall with the pot in his hand. But j\Ir. Trimmer went out, and gave notice that he was there : the mob in- stantly rushed in, seized him, and carried him before the lord major. 1 lience under a strong guard he was sent to the Lords of the Council, who committed him to the Tower, where he died April 18, 16S9, and was buried privately the Sunday night following. It was supposed, that .lefl'eries died of his bruises which he received at the time of his sei- zure ; and many regretted that he was not drag- ged forth, sent down into the \^'est, and there 1 LINES BY SOUTHEV. 07 subjected to the ignominy of a public execution^ The new government, however, was probably glad to get rid of him and his associates in any mariner. During his confinement in the Tower, Mr. Pennant says that a barrel of Colchester oysters was convej'ed to him; wliich opening with joy, thinking it to be sent l)y some friend, he discovered an halter curiously wound up, thus reproaching him w'ith his cruelty. Indeed, few mortals have ever quitted this state of being so deeplv ladf ri with the execrations of mankind. Before 1 close this melancholy account of Jef- feries' campaign in the West (the appellation which James jocularly bestowed upon it) itmay be observed, that it is impossible to visit the charming town of Taunton and its environs with- out calling up those enormities to the cnind, though they were perpetrated at the distance of upwards of a century. My imagination was haunted with them ! and I am not ashamed of this my sensibility, because cruelty, by whomso- ever and on what account soever it is exercised^ may be pronounced a disgrace to humanity. The humane mind may wish to forget them ; but the patriotic soul cherishes their remembrance — they suggest wholesome lessons to society. Nor am I singular in these my impressions. A modern poet, distinguished for his taste, and the delicacy of his feelings, has published the following in- scription, the purport of which is to in) press similar sentiments on the mind. Read theui, if K 1)3 JUVENILE TOURIST. you can, without those emotions which a virtu- ous mind must feel on such an occasion : FOR A MONUMENT AT TAUNTON. liY ROBEHT SOUTHEY. ' The}' perished here whom Jefferies dooni'd to deatli, 111 mockery ot' all justice, when ke came. The blood}' judge, the minion of his king Commissioned to destroy. They perished here The victims of that judge and of that king. In mockery of ail justice perished here Unheard ! but not unpitied, nor of God Unseen, the innocent suffered. Not in vain Ihe innocent blood cried vengeance ! for they rose At length, they rose the people in their power ^ Kesistless. Tiien in vain tliat bloody judge Pisguised, sought fljgfit. Not always is the Lord Stow to revenge '. A miserable man. He fell beneath ^e people's rage, and still 'J he children curse hisniemory. From his throae The sullen bigot who commissioned him. The tyrant James was driven. He lived to drag Long years of frustrate hope, he liv'd to load More blood upon his soul. Let tell the Boyne, Let Londonderry tell his guilt arid shame, And that immortal day when on thy shores, La Hoguc, the purple ocean dash'd the dead ! The battle of the Boyne, in Irclandj and the fight of La Hogue, near Clierbourgh, off the coasl of France, were signal defeats which James received, and by which William was established on the throne. Beautiful engravings of these events, as well as of the acceptance of the Cruzcn hy William and Mary, are often seen decorating our jnirlours, and ought to be had in reverence by i^ATRlOTIC REFLECTIONS. DD the inhabitants of Great Britain. James brea- thed his last at St. Germain's, a httle village near Paris, in 1701 — and his son, usually calied the l^retejider, died at Rome, 1766. His son, Charles ^i/VfearJ, (tlie grand agent in the rebcJIion, I74j) died in 1783. And Iletny Benedict Siuurt, Car- dinal York, the last surviving branch oi" tliis un- fortunate race, is lately deceased. The misfor- tunes of the iS^Mar^ yawz/y are detailed by Vol- taiTe, and quoted by Bosweli in liis Tom- through From th.ii euriory mt'v^y of MoniHouth's re» btllion, both rulers ixnd \nm\ilQ may learn lesions @f wisdum i such bft.rbfvritie^ t'ould not paf^s long unpunished. Three, i/mrs was the desiincd pe- riod of impunity : for violence of every kind de- feats even its own favourite purposes. The pas- sions of the multitude are to be sootlied rather than inflamed. There is a point, beyond which the pressure of misery cannot be borne. Wise, therefore, are those legislators who, ever atten- tive to the grievances of the community, are de- sirous of establishing upon the broad basis of equity that salutary authoj-ity which degene- rates not into oppression, and that rational li- berty which is far removed from licentiousness. Thankful for our present privileges, it is the in- cumbent duty of all ranks amongst us to lay aside prejudices, to seek the interests of our countr}', and to clasp each other in the bauds of love and amity. Tar distant from the shores of Britain be the torch of civil discord, and may she conti- 100 JfVENII.F. TOIRIST, nue to be the abode of harmony and peace to the latest generations ! Before I cjo^e the letter, justice requires me to observe, that after a certain time an auniesty was granted, of which many availed ihrmselves. And it may be graiifyijig to curiosity to add a copy of a pictedion issued at that perilous period, the o/7g///«/ of which (soiled by age) 1 happened to have ill my possession : — " These are to. certify, to all person? whom it do(h or may concern, that on the 27th day of May, in the year of our Lord \6b6, George Wic/ie, of Langport, in tlie county of Somerset, came before me one of his Majesty's Justices of the Peace of, for, and within the Corporation of Tanntoii, and did then, in Taunton aforesaid, lay hold of his Majesty's gracious Proclamation of Pardon, which was given at his Majesty's Court rit Whitehall the 10th day of March, ItiSfi; in testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand, the '27 th day of May above written. '' William Bi ddcood. Alderman/' It is interesting to reflect, that this hit of paper was the means of saving a fellow-creature from tlic fangs of Kirke and Jr/Jcn'cs ! ^ et such was the ca^.e, and happy would it have been even for J AMES and his atlherents, had these prolecliuns l)een granted in profusion — it miglit have pre- venitd the Ulvolution. Mr. Roscoc, has, in his Lorenzo De Medicis, laid down this golden ma.xim^ " No end can MAXIM OF MR. ROSCOli. 101 justify the sacrijice of a principle; nor was a crime t'ver necessary in the course ot" human aflTairs. 7 he sudden burst of vindictive passion may some- times operate important consequences on the fat<; of nations, bat the event is seldom within the limits of human calculation. It is only the calm energy of reason constantly bearing up against the encroachments of power, that can with certainty perpetuate the freedom or promote the happiness of the human race !" I remain, dear Sir, Your's, Kc, K 8 JQ2 JUVENILE TOURIST. LETTER VII. I^CmsiON TO A COUMTRY VILLAGE; BIl IDC EW ATEB ; IIS cuvrch; its trade; admibal blake ; Alfred in iiit ISLE OP ATIIELXEY ; BATTLE OP SKDCEMOORJ CRUELTIKd Of THE victors; REfLECTIONS »JN war ; ANECDOTE ; GLAS- TONBVRY ; ITS abbey; AlIRKU LfAVES HIS WIYV. AND CUJLD THERE; HOLY THORN; WELLS; ITS CATHFDRAlJ OKFLY HOLE ; VICTORY OF ALFRED AT FDDINGTON ; CHA- RACTER OF ALFBIZD, FROM HUMl's HISTORY OF E.ICLAND. BEAR Sin, 1 HE day 1 left Taiinton T rose at an early hour, and being tiivoured with ilic horse of a friend, made an excursion into tlie country. It was a beauiiful morning ; the sun, steadily mounting to reach his meridian height, flung his rays with amodernte intenseness over the surrounding land- .scape. Nature presented herself to me in an en- dearing aspect, and almost every object 1 beheld, impressed me with sensations of delight. Indeed the charms of a fine morning are indescribable : fc How foolUh they wholongllicn night, And slumber in the muntiiig light ! Uow s»«ct at early morning's rise To vievk ihc glutics of the skies ! The purport of this excursion wns to pay a ->'usii to ii venerable widow, Mrs. W e, Avho j» sided at a village within a few miles of Taun- FILIAL AFFECTION. 103 ton, the situation of which was retired and im- pressive. Her only son had, a few months ago, eiuigratcd to Amcriea ; being induced, by a prospect of independence, to quit bisnative coun- try. She shewed me the letter which she had lately received from him, containing the pleasing information of his arrival at New York. Tlie latter part of the letter glowed with emanations of duty and affection ; aiming to impress on the mind of his aged parent this consolatory truth, that though the wide Atlantic rolled its waves between them, yet, in the course of every twen- ty-four hours, the same sun sheds his kindly rays on their habitations ! This simple illustra- tion dictated by the warmth of his Hlial feelings, did honour to his heart. But alas ! he is now no more ! The melancholy intelligence has been received of the decease of this excellent young man, on the '22d of August, 1799, at Philadel- phia. He was cut off in three days by the yellow fever, that scourge of the Western Continent. From this disorder at Neio York, he had fled, and was on his way to join a friend in Kentucky, after whose society, to use his own forcible expres- sions, ''bis soul hungered and thirsted." A n^r relative soothed his own grief by the composition of the following lines, the unaifected effusion of the heart : No IIeho of tlie ocean, field, or gown, We luouin. Our worthy frknd sought not the wealth Andnois^ fame, whiclij at the price of bloody i04 JUVENILE TOURIST. Or conscience, some acquire. He, throughout' His active course, in social manner Taught — -justice, mercy, and huinilitj' ; But found not in the nmltilude his Ivind. He journey'd — thirsting for his distant friend, His kindred soul — when lo ! on speedy wing Brought down — son3e Friend celestial caught hini ! T, W. Well did Mr. Burke exclaim, on an occasion of sudden mortality — "What sliadows are we, and what shadows are we pursuing!" The virtues of George Wiche will not be forgotten among the circle of his friends, by whom his modest and unassuming worth was appreciated. Be this pa- ragraph sacred to his memory ! Upon my return to Taunton, the stage-coach \vas ready, and my friend and 1 set ollfcr A\'ells. We regretted the shortness of our stay in this pleasant town, hut we remained long enough to witness their hospitahty. In two liours we arrived at B/idgewater, a sea- port, not far from the Bristol Channel, whence a spring-tide flows twenty-two feet at the key, and conies in with so much turbidence, that it is called a raging boar, by the iidiabitants. Its church has a lofty spire, Jrom which there must be an extensive prospect of the surrounding country. Hither the Duke of Monmouth, to- gether with Lord Grey, and others of liis officers ascended, to view the situation of the King's troops on the day l)cfore thefatal battle oi" Sedge- moor. Thus used the unhappy I'rojans, from the walls of Troy, to survey the Grecian forces, by wl)om tlicy were afterwards overthrown. Tlie A OM IRA I, BLAKE. 105 iron bridge which is to be seen here, and which is similar to that in Coiebrooke Dale, is a curio- sity. In 17'i4 the Duke ofChandois built a street in this town, w^ith a range of warehouses. The town suffered in the civil wars, and at last sur- rendered to the overpowering Cromwell. In J 6S5 tlie Duke of Monmouth lodged in its castle, was proclaimed King there, and even laid his hand on many persons for the king's evil. Il !s impossible not to smile at this su[)erstition. Even Dr. Joimson was, in his cliildiiood, touched for it by Queen Anne, though he could not boast of its efficacy. All that he used to say about it was, that he was the last upon whom the good Queen tried the experiment, and that he just remem- bered his being introduced to an old lady in a black satin hood, finely dressed and bespangled with jewels ! Bridgewater carries on trade with Bristol, Wales, and Cornwall. It had also a fo- reign trade, chiefly to Portugal and Newfound- land. The extensive manufactory of almost every kind of metal carried on in this town, by T. Pyke, Esq. is well worthy inspection. The celebrated Admiral Blake, who did such wonders in the time of Cromwell, was a native of Bridgewater, and represented it in several par- liaments. The object of all his enterprises was the aggrandisement of old England. Disliking many parts of the Protector's conduct, he con- tinued to fight on, saying to his captains ; — It is not for us to mind state matters, but to keep foreigners from fooling us ! Mr. Gilpin 106 JUVENILE TOURIST. tells us^ " that one personal singularity is re* corded which gives a sort of portrait of him. When his choler was raised, and he was bent on some desperate undertaking, it was his custom to twirl his whiskers with his forefinger. When- ever that sign appeared, those about him well- knew something dreadful was in agitation." In the river Parret, not far from Bridgevvater, i> the small island of Jthehiey, whither the im- mortal x^lfred fled from the Danes, and where happened the incident of the hcrdsinim and his wife/ who employed the monarch in bnldng a cake ! This little story ia wrought by Mrs, Bur- bauld, in her Evenings at Home, ii.to a drama, well calculated to delight the youthful imagination,. Mr. Joseph Cottle also,— in his entertaining Epic Poem, entitled Alfred, has introduced the circum- stance with effect. The thoughts of final vic- tory, that possessed the mind of Alfred at this desperate period of his affairs, and which were indulged in this secluded spot, are thus de- scribed.— The cottager and his wife were gono to rest : — •P.ut Ai. Fred's eje J»o sluiuber vbitcd. He watch'd the moon. And counted o'er tlie biiglitest olilie stars That shone in heaven, and strove to dissipate The fix'd and gnawing load that on iii» heart Fress'd hard ; but it was vain, his woes sprang up Prc-eiiiiiitnt, and dared his will, and bore A master's sway — ruling his passive mind. His faithful OonusE leagur'd round, and now Ko force to aid hiiu. Ol Alswitha slaiu — BATTLE OF SEDGEMOOE. 10? For ever gone — and of liis infant son TossM on the hostile spear, whose piercing cries No father's arm could succour. " Tis the hour Of vengeance !" cried the King. " ]\Iy kindling breast Glows with one purpose 1 By the eternal God Now attj I roused ! The Danish cup fs full ! The incense of their crimes have steam'd to heaven, And God demands my vengeance !" Many plans. All deadly, to and fro through Alfred's mind Pass'd rapid, till at length a heavy sleep Fell on him, and his dreams were mixed willi blood ! Alfred afterwards made the herdsman Bishop of Winchester, and built a monastery here, the foundations of which were discovered 1674. Among other subterraneous remains of this build- ing, were found the bases of church pillars, con- sisting of wrought free-stone, with coloured tiles ; and soon afterwards near this island, was found a sort of medal or picture of St. Cuthbert, with a Saxon inscription, which imported that it was made by order of King Alfreb. It seems by its form to have been hung by a string, and it is conjectured that the King wore it either as an amulet, or in veneration of St. Cuthbert, who is said to have appeared to him in his troubles, and assured him of the victories wb.ich he afterwards obtained. A little beyond Bridgewater, to the right of the road which leads to Wells, lies the village of Sedgemoor, near which the Duke of Monmouth, and his adherents were routed. The battle was fought July 6, 1683. The following particulars are worthy of being preserved. 108 JUVENILE TOURIST. "■ The aj)proacli of the King's Ibices, iincVei the coniinand of the Earl of Feveisiiaui, was first discovered by ISIr. William Sparke, a farmer of Chedzoy, who was at that time on the tower, and by the assistance of a glass, saw thrin coining down Sedgemoor. One Richard Godfrey, of tlie same parish, was immcdiafely dispatched to \V\ston Zo, laud, to take a nearer observation, who, having- nitonncd iiimself of their strength, and the order of their encampment, ran to Bridgewater to apprize the Duke. A consulta- tion being held,it was determined to assault (he royal camp in the dead of the night. Accord- ingly on Sunday, July the 5th, a little before midnight, tiie Duke's party marched out of Bridgewater, taking Godfrey with them for a guide, who conducted them through a private jane at Bradney (know n at this day by tlie name oil! nr Lane,) and passing under I'easy farm, brought them, at length into Nortli Moor, di- rectly in the rear of the King's army. Unluckily for the Duke, at this juncture, a pistol was fired by some person uiduiown, which alaruiing the enemy, they soon put themselves in a posture to receive the attack. " The action began on Monday morning, be- tween one and two of the clock, and continued near an hour and an half. Sixteen onlj' of the King's soldiers were killed (as appears from a memorandum, entered at the timC;, in the parish register at Weston) five of v.hom were buried in SINGULAR CRUELTY. 109 W^eston clnucli, and eleven in Weston church- yard. Above one hundred were wounded, and amons: them Louis Chevalier de Misiere, a French gentleman, who died of his wounds, and lies buried in tlie church ofMiddelzoy. On the part ot" the Duke three hundred were killed in the field of battle, and five hundred were taken prisoners in the pursuit, and upwards of five hun- dred were apprehended afterwards by the civil officers and others. '' Immediately after the battle, the Earl of Fe- versham ordered twenty-two of the prisoners to behanged on thespot, four of whom were hanged in chains ! The fate of one man in particular is too extraordinary to be passed over. This per- son, remarkably swift of foot, was prevailed upon, on condition of being pardoned, to entertain the genera] with an instance of his agility. Accord- ingly having stripped himself naked, a halter was put round his neck, and the opposite end of it was fastened to the neck of a horse. They started at a place called Bussex-rhine, and ran from thence to Brintsfield bridge, a distance somewhat exceeding half-a-mile; and though the horse went at full speed, the man kept pace withhim the whole way. But, notwithstanding this exertion of his ability, and the terms of the agreement, the inhuman general ordered him to behanged with the rest. " The barbaritiy of the soldiers, who were em- ployed in burying the slain, was yet greater. Se- veral unfortunate men of the Duke's party, who L 110 JUVENILE TOURIST. lay wounded on tlie field, were thrown into the earth with the dead ; and some endeavouring, with the little strength they had left, to crawl out of their graves were prevented by the unfeeling soldiers, who dispatched them with their spades !" Upon reading this account of 6Wg;emoor battle, and its attendant cruelties, emotions of grief arise within the breast. On such occasions we may exclaim with a modern poet : — — . Spirit of deatli. That through the ranks of war dost range unseen ! O God of battles ! when shall slaughter cease. And man awake from tliis strange dream of life ? Will not the tears of pity and the cries Of countless orphans, and the shrieks of death. Relentless power ! nor even the suppliant look Of mildly beaming mercy, stay thine arm ? It were a sight that would high heav'n rejoice, 'lii\\c proud victor, in the awful hour. Of widely wasting war, and with the wreath Of glory crown'd, amid the loud acclaim Of warlike soldiery, iiush'd with crimson pride Of conquest — o'er the dying and the c^cad, If haply UE should cast one pitying look. Drop his red sword^ and weep the work of death t War is in itself one of the greatest maladies that can afflict mankind. It is that tremendous evil which Providence employs to punish guilty nations, when inferior chastisements have failed in their operation. In its train follows a scene of horrors. Nor is any individual able to form an adequate judgment of its mischief, except he has been an eye witness to its devastations. The late Mr. iMason (a respectable clergyman of th« 1 THE EVILS OF "NVAK. HI ohurcli of England) has furnisliecl ns with the following picture of its effects} it is death per- sonified as a warrior : Hark ! heiird ye not yon footstep dread. That shook the earth with thundering tread ; 'Twas death ! — in h;is;e The Warrior past High tower'd his helmed liead ; I nwrk'd his mail ; I mark'd his shield } I spy'd the sparkling of his spear, I saw his giant arm the faulchion wield. Wide wav'd his bickering blade and fir'd the angry air ! Defensive war alone, can be justified by the dictates of reason or the precepts of Revelation. The Quakers, a respectable body of people, are of opinion, that no zcar will admit of vindication. They contend that their religion prohibits every species of destruction. Certain it is, that the doctrines of Clirist are of a most pacific tenden- cy ; that those persons who have imbibed their spirit, are least inclined to contention ,• and, fi- nally, the prophecies assure us, that when Reve- IntioH shall have attained to its full efiicacy on the human race, war shall be \o more! In the mean time we must lament the bloody contests with which the world is filled ; nor can we help admiring INliss M ore's lines : ^ O blind 10 think Tl'.at cruel wak can please the I'rince ofPoac? He wlio erects his altar in the lieart, Abhors tiie sacrifice of human blood, L 'Z l\Q. JUVENILE TOURIST. Aiui all the false devotion of that zeal Which mussacrei the world he died to save. pt;bcy. But I must not quit this subject without com- niuincating to you an anecdote, related by a modern traveller "■— 1 visited/' says he, " with in- terest and attention, the plain where the famous battle was foudit between the Czar Peter the Great, and Charles of Sweden. The riiqund still remains that was built with the bodies of the slain ! On being dug into, it exhibits an awful i/ichuigc of the skeletons of men and horses; witii the iron heels of boots, rusty spears, ami broken weapons." This account accords with a curious passage ia the Jiist Georgic of Virgil, which shews that such spectacles are not peculiar to modernlimes. The energy of the Roman language was never more happily displayed : Agricola, incurvo terrain inolitus aratro Kxcsa inveniet scabra rubiginc pila, Aut gravibusrastris gaJeas pulsabit inanes Graudiaque clFossis niirabilur ossa sepulchris. The labouring peasant with the crooked share. Turning the glebe, shall plough up jav'lins, furr'd With eating rust ; and with the pond'rous rakes Clash against empty helmets ; and admire Big manij' bones, d;gg'd from their opcn'd graves ! For this digression I make no apology — an ha- tred of war and the love of peace, are indissolu- bly connected. A minister of the gospel is act- GLASTONBURY. 113 ing in his own proper character, when he en- deavours to fling a rein over the savage passions of the human species. Jesus Christ laid every possible restraint on hostile dispositions. He revealed doctrines, enjoined precepts, and en- forced institutions, which, were they attended to, would effectually contribute to the tranquillity of the world. Passing on from Bridgewater towards Wells, a lovely prospect opened to us on the left, which might be pronounced almost unrivalled for its variety. Part of Somersetshire, the Bristol Channel studded by the two little islands called the Holmes, and in the further part of the land- scape the mountains of Wales, rose to view in rich succession. The counties of Glamorgan and Monmouth were discerned in the skirts of the horizon — the latter of which, containing the place of my birth (natale solwu) gave rise to pleasing sensations. I involuntary thought of dear relatives and friends, encircled by their nativehills, and enjoying the gains of their peace- ful industry ; the whole group of objects now en- gaging the attention, constituted no ordinarN^ scene, and was contemplated by us with no com- mon emotions. The union of land and water en- ters into a highly beautiful landscape — we now beheld them in periection. We soon reached the ancient town of 'Glas- tonbury. Here are the fine ruins of an abbey, once called the Mother of all Saints, which at- tract the attention of the traveller. It is pre- I, 3 114 JUVENILE TOURIST. tended that the bodies of Joseph of Arimathea, of King Arthur, and of King Edward the con- fessor, were buried there, for the place was dis- tinguished in the earliest periods of our history. Mr. Cottle (in his Epic Poem already men- tioned) supposes, that Alfred brought his queen Alswitha and his son to the abbey for safety — his approach towards it is thus described : — I».0Wjashe paused, there to his siaht appcar'd A stately pile, of which tlie King enquir'd : " It is/' said Nidor, " Gi.ASxoNuunv, famed O'er all the hind, where holy Monks abide. And where the singing is both night and dav !" COTTLE. Their entrance into the abbey is also pictu- resquely delineated : — Following through aisles that scarce receivM Hcav'n's light, 'Mid shrines and (retted pillars, till at length They caiue before the altar. Gliininering ravs From lonely tapers spread e'er all tiie place A dubious light, a gloom that to the heart Couvey'd a sudden awe, and many a fear. Doubtful aud undefined ! COTTLI. Finally ; its destruction, by the Danes, is thus announced to Alfred, concealed in the hut of a cottager : That noble pile Is now ill ashes ! all the pious Monies H»*e there been murder'd ! scarce one stone remain*, Aud fast the Danes march on and devaslatc With uaUiitingui^h'wl fury ! COTTLE. THE HOLY THORN. 115 These passages pressed upon my mind, and rivetted me to the spot with a kind of incan- tation. It is in vain to obstruct the emotions of the heart. At present the town is large and well-built, containing two parish churches. On a steep hill near this place, stands an ancient tower, com- monly called Glastonbury Tor, commanding an extensive prospect, and serving as a land-mark for seamen. Its history is involved in obscurity. Upon the summit of this Tor the last abbot of this place was hung by the order of that despot Henry the Eighth, for not acknowledging his supremacy. The hill was remarkable for the holt/ thornj which was said, in former times, to blossom yearly on Christmas-day. The story is, that it sprung from St. Joseph of Arimathea's staff, stuck by him in the ground. It would discom- pose the most serious gravity to read what Hearne, Broughton, and Camden, have written on this subject. Dr. James Montague, Bishop of Bath and Wells, in King James the First's days, was so wonderfully taken with the holy thoryij that he thought a branch of it a present worthy the acceptance of the then Queen Anne, King James's consort. Natural historians have since discovered, that this marvellous tree is only a deviation from the common standard of its spe- cies. Thus does science put to flight the dreams of superstition ! A few miles onward, we came to the small, I IG JUVENILE TOURIST. but neat city of Wells, which, together with Bath, forms a joint bishopric. It is situated at the bottom of the Mendip Hills, and derives its name from the great number of springs that are in and about it. The cathedral is a fine piece of architecture ; the front of this Gothic struc- ture, which has been built upwards of 500 years, is much admired for its imagery and carved stone work. It has also a painted window. Tlie palace of the bishop, fortified with walls and a moat, is reckoned the handsomest in the kingdom. Here the pious and learned Bishop Kidder and his lady were killed in their bed, by the palace falling in during the storm of 1703, which did immense damage in different parts of the coun- try. The city abounds with public charities. ISot far from Wells, on the south side of the ^lendip Hills, is a cave, known by the name of Okehf Hole. Tile entrance to this cave is pa- rallel to the horizon, at the bottom of a cave 180 feet high, and over the rock is a steep moimtain, the top of which is thought to be a mile above the bottom of the rock. At the entrance into the cave, there is a deep descent of oOor COfeet; the cave itself is about 200 feet in length, in some parts 50 or GO broad, and the greatest height is 50 feet, though, in some places, the roof is not above four or five feet from the bot- tom. There are several divisions of it, which the imaginations of some people have distinguished into a kitchen, a hall, a dancing-room, a cellar, and other apartments. Water of a petrifvin*'- BATTLE OF EDDINGTON. 117 quality constantly drops from the roof, and form- ing a variety of stony figures, fancy has improved iheni into resemblances of old women, dogs, bells, or organs, and other things. The echo of any noise within this cavern is so strong, that a stone dropped on the rocky bottom of the cave, sounds with a noise as loud as the re- port of a cannon. At the extremity of the ca- vern there issues a stream of water sufllcient to drive a mill, and passing with rapidity and noise the whole length of the cavern, it bursts out through the rock near the entrance into the valley ! Not far from this part of Somersetshire was fought the Battle of Eddington, when Alfred obtained a complete victory over the Danes, hitj inveterate enemy. We have already noticed his fortitude in the day of adversity while in the Isle of Atheiney ; let us now record his gratitude after the acquisition of victory ; it laid the foun- dation for the peace and prosperity of Bri- tain : — Loftier than the rest Stood Alfred. Oh one side the Queen appear'^ Bearing her child, and on the other Oddune ; While the vast host pf Saxons all around Intent stood listening. When the Kino his ari« liaised, and began .- " Most gallant men ! One moment more : my words have not been frara'd To self applause, nor hath my heart been taught To see aught good but from the hand of God. 118 JUVENILE TOURIST. Wlicn speaking of your valour and your might, I know you're but the instruments ! On high Dwells the great ruler of all mortal things ! With him have we found favour ! He it was Who this deliverance wrought — who by his hand Unseen made plain our path, and at this hour Gives us to triumph ! He it was who screen'd Our heads in perils infinite ! His arm Fought on our side I Saioiis with me rejoice I But to the God of Heavln be all the praise !" COTTLE. It will be a. sufficient apology for the number of Poetical Extracts in this letter, that many of the lines relate to the illustrious Alfred, *' whose character," says Hume, " presents that model of perfection which philosophers have been fond of delineating, rather as a fiction of their imagination, than in hopes of its real ex- istence : so happily^were all his virtues tempered together, so justly were they blended, and so powerfully did each prevent the other from ex- ceeding its proper boundaries. He reconciled the severest justice with the gentlest lenity, the brightest ca[)acity and inclination for science, with the most shining talents for action. His civil and his military virtues are almost equally the object of our admiration, excepting only that the former being more rare among princes, as well as more useful, seem chiefly to challenge our applause ; and nature also, as if desirous that 'so bright a production of her skill should be set in the fairest light, had bestowed on him CHARACTER OF ALFRED. 119 every bodily accomplishment. His countenance was open and engaging, his shape majestic ; and he could only accuse that fortune, which, by throwing him on a barbarous age, had deprived him of historians worthy to transmit his fame to posterity." 1 remain, dear Sir, Your's, &,c. 120 JUVENILE TOURIST. LETTER nil. 6HEPT0N-MALLET ; RUINS AT NUKNY; VIIOMF, ; W A R MI NSTKR ; FIGURE OK THE WHITE HOUSE ; STONLHFNGE ; ITS ANTI- QUITY AND PRESKNT CONDITION ; I.1NE8 ON STOXJCHENGF, BY WARTON AND LOVELL ; BALISnURV AND ITS CATHE- DRAL; WILTON-nOUSE ; OLD SAliUM ; WINCHESTER ; ISAAC WALTON; PORTSMOUTH; alrksfokd; tarnham; stock- BRICDE ; RETURN TO LONDON ; TWICKENHAM; RICHMOND; THOMSON AND WAKEFK.LD ; K HV ; FULHAM; IIVDE-PAP.K- CORNER ; CONCLUSION. DEAR SIR, iriAVING thus passed through Taunton, Bridge- water, and Wells, reflecting on the events by which that paTt of our island has been distin- guished, we quitted the stage-coach, and taking a post-chaise crossed the country to Frame. We saw Shepton Mallet on the right, a clothing town, for which it is fitted by the rivulets witli which it is surrounded. We also passed by the little retired village of Nunnif, where a dismant- led castle, of some extent, tells the sad tale of former times. Ruins indeed, of every kind, form an awful spectacle, and to a mind disposed to moralize, suggest melancholy reflections. The evening sun shone on these battered towers, and reminded me of that dissolution in which all ter- restial things shall be finally involved. It is not unworthy of observation^ that a celebrated author. FROME. 121 Mrs. Woolslonecraft, speaking of insanity, pro- nounces the most terrific of ruins to be tliat of tlie liuman soul. " What," says she, " isthe view of the falHng column, the mouldering arch, of the most exquisite workmanship, when compared with the living memento of the fragility, the in- stability, and the wild luxuriancy of noxious passions ? Enthusiasm turned adrift, like some rich stream overflowing its banks, rushes for- ward with destructive velocity, inspiring a sub- lime concentration of thought. These are the ravages over which humanity must ever mourn- fully ponder with a degree of anguish, not ex- cited by crumbling marble or cankering brass, xm faithful to the trust of monumental fame. It is not over the decayed productions of the mind, embodied with the liappicst art, we grieve most bitterly. The view of what has been done by man, produces a melancholy yet aggrandizing scene of what remains to be achieved by human intellect; but a mental ro?rt7Vhether by Merlin's aid from Scythia's shore To Amber's fatal plain Pendragon bore, Huge frame of giant-hands, the mighty piie,^ T'entonib his Britons, slain by Ilcngist's guile ; Or Druid priest?, spriiikl'd with human gore. Taught, 'mid thy mas^y maze, their mystic lore : Or Danisli chiefs, cnrich'd with savage spoil. To victory's idol vast an unhewn shrine, llcar'd the rude heap : or, in thy liallow'd round. Repose the kings of Brutus' genuine line ; Or here those kings in solemn s'.ate were crown'd j Studious to trace thy ■Nvond'rous origin, ■\Vc muse on many an uuciCiit tale renowu'd ! These ruins are, in their appearance, peculi- arlv solemn, and their isolated situation in the midst of the plain, heightens the sensations with which they are contemplated. The idea i> taken up with success in these lines, which Tvill please you : STONEIIENGE. BY THE LATE ROIJERT LOVEtL. "Was it a spirit on yon shapeless pile ' It vrore, mtthougtat, an buary Uruid's fcrin^ SALISBURY. 127 Musing on ancient days ! the dying storm Moan'd in his lifted locivs ; thou night I the vvhile Dost listen to his sad harp's wild complaint. Mother of shadows ! as to tliee lie pours The broken strain, and jjlaintively deplores The fall of Druid fame ! Hark! murmurs faint Breathe on the wavy air ! and now more loud Swells the deep dirge, accustom'd to complain Of holj' riles unpaid, and of the crowd. Whose careless steps these sacred haunts profane. O'er the wild plain the hurryingtempest flies. And 'mid the storm unheard — the song of sorrow dies f I have dwelt the longer on this phaenomenon, beeaiise it is confest to be the most interesting relic of aiiticjuity, by which Britain is distin- guished. Its form, situation, and history, arc calculated to generate profound impressions. Driving along, about six miles over these dreary plains, we soon reached the neat and plea- sant city of Salisbury. It lies in a vale, and is of coHbiderable extent. The streets are, in general, spacious, and built at right angles, lad- der, AV-'illy, and Avon, three small rivers, meeting near the city, run through them in canals, lined withbricis, and this distribution of water forms a singular appearance. It has also been remarked that no stream flows through that part of the city inhabited by the butchers, and consequently, where it was most wanted. There are no vaults in the churches, nor cellars any where to be found in the town, the soil being so moist, that the water rises up in graves, dug in the catliedral. Here is a spacious markel-placc; in which stands 123 'juvenile TOLBIST. a fine tov.n-liouse. The maniifucturcs of the place arc cloths of various kiiuls, and cutlery of almost every description. Besides the cathedral^ there are, in the city, three other churches and three charity-schools, in v;hich J 70 children are taught and clothed. It has, likewise, an hospital or college, estahlishcd \GS3, hy Bishop Ward,. (one of the founders of the royal society) for ten widows of poor clergymen. This does honour to his memory. The cathedral of Salisbury demands special at- tention. It vpas founded, 1219, hy Bishop Poor^ v.ho removed hither from Old Sarum, upon which the greatest part of the citizens of that place followed him. The structure is reckoned the most elegant and regular Gothic building in the kingdom. It is in the form of a lanthornj. with a spire of free-stone in the middle of it, 401 feet high, being the tallest in England I Accord- iuG; to thi.> computation, it is twice the height of the Monument. The church, it is said, hath as many doors as there are months, windows as tlicrc are days, and pillars as there are hours in the year. Hence the well known ver.ses :— A« many Aiys as in one year there be, So miiiiy windows in one rliurcii .we sec j As niiiny uiitvole pillars there iipijcar Astheic iive hours tliroiigliout the fleeting year 3 As mamy gctes as moons one year docs view, Strange are to tellj yet not lauie strange tluu true ! The monuments are numerous ; but niy atten- tion was chielly fixed on a marble slab, cacled SALlSilURY CATHEDRAL. ICJ) to the memory of the late James Harris, Esq. au- thor of 'The Hermes, (declared by Bishop Lowth to be the most beautiful and perfect example of analysis, that has been exhibited since the days of Aristotle) it was decorated by a medallion head, and a neat classical inscription. He was a studious man — has thrown much light on the philological parts of learning, and was usually, denominated the Philosopher of Sali&hurij. He was the father of the present Lord Malmsbuiy, whose diplomatic merits are known and admired, and by whom a complete edition of his works, with memoirs, have been published. We saw also a stone monument, representing a little boy habited in episcopal robes, a mitre on his head, and a crosier in his hand. This, wliich was buried under the seats near the pulpit, was taken from thence, and placed in the north part of the nave, where it now lies, defended by iron cross bars. Mr. Gregory, prebendary of Win- terborne Earles, after a good deal of trouble in searching old statutes and MSS. we are told, found that the children of the choir Jinciently elected a chorister bishop on St. JSicholas's day ; from that to Innocent's day he was dressed in Pontifical robes ; his fellows were prebends, and they performed every service, except the mass, which the real bishop, dean, and prebends, usually did. They made processions, sung part of the mass, and, so careful was the church that no in- terruption nor press should incommode them, that, by a statute of Sarum, it was pronounced JOO JUVENILE TOURIST. exconimunicalioii. If the choral hishop died within the month, his exequies were solemnized with pomp and sadness : he was buried, as all other bishops, in his ornaments. It is certain^ therefore, that this stone monument belongs to a choral Imhop dying within the month, and may be deemed a curiosity. Nor must I quit the ca- thedral, without noticing its beautiful window, on which, after the design of West, hvi?, been painted in glowing colours our Saviour's Resur- rection. The countenance and attitude of the Messiah arc {inally cxjirossive of the event. We behold him starting from amidst the darknesa^ and oblivion of the tomb ; With scars of honour in his flesh. And triumph in his eyes ! WAT78.* • I lately purchased a beautiful picture of the Bemrrectlon of Christ, from a dcsigrt of Riphacl, and executed by Ditlt.ni, \'ivarcs and Grignioii, famous engravers in tlieir diy. Tlie se- pulchre is placed in tlie midst of a garden : Jerusalem is in tLe back-ground ; tlie three women are coming towards the melanclioly spot; Jesus appears at Ihc entrance of the scpulclirc, with all the marks of triumph arising from the recovery of existence, and the Roman guards, with most expressivi- countenance*, exiiibit the nluioht dismay and couslernution ! It is not improbable that Dod- drige had SK'n this picture wlienlic penned these lines on the Zfe- turrcct'wn of our Saviour, which I have written beneath it : — The ff(i(ir(/» around In wild disnia}', Fall to the Rroui d And sink away ! Sliould.the reader cvct mcetx\i:ii this eu^-raviiig it is ATtll worthy his attention. OLD i5AEUM. ] 'H This church has a fine cloister, and a chapter- liouse of singular form. It is an octagon of 150 fe6t in circumference, and 3'et the roof bears all upon one pillar, in the centre, so much too weak . in appearance for the support of such a prodigi- ous weight, that the building is, on this account, thought to be one of the greatest curiosities in England, Old Sarum stands at the distance of one mile north of Salisbury ; it is as ancient as the old Britons. Walker informs us, that though it once covered the summit of a high steep hill, yet there is nothing now to be seen of it except some small ruins of a castle, with a double entrench- ment, and a deep ditch. It has been whim- sically remarked, that tlie tracks of the streets and cathedral may be pretty distinctly traced out by the different colours of the corn growing, where the city once stood ! Theinhabitants, labouring under inconveniences for the want of v.'ater, and on account of the bleakness of the air to which the height of their situation exposed them, removed to the new city. Old Sarum is now reduced to a single tarm-liouse, yet it still sends two members to parliament ! Such things call for reformation. Wilton-house, the seat of the Earl of Pembroke, in the vicinity of Salisbury, must not be passed over in silence. It stands near the little town of Wilton, whence the county (Wiltshire) takes i-ts name. The mansion was raised on the ruins of a sequestered abbey tovvardsthe latter end of the 13'2 JUVENILE TOURIST. reign of Henry the Eighth, but not finished t^Il many years after, when neither pains nor ex[)ence were spared to render it one of the most superb seats in the kingdom. The statues, busts, paint- ings, &c. collected at diflcrent periods, are so arranged, that it may be called a grand Museum. The following are worthy attention ; it would re- quire a volume to describe them. In the cuiirt before the front stands a column of while Egyptian granite, on the top of which is a fine statue of Venus ; this was originally set up before .the temple of Venus Genetrix, by Ju- lius Caisar. The shaft being only one piece, weighs between sixty and seventy hundred weight. This column was brought liither from amidst the ruins of old Rome ! On its lower fillet are five letters, which, having the proper vowel supplied, make Astarte, the name by which Venus was worshipped among the eastern na- tions. The (Jrazcing-room contains a painting by Ru- bens, of four children representing our Saviour, an angel, St. John, and a little girl. The angel is lifting a lamb to St. John, who has his left hand upon it, and appears discoursing with our Saviour as they are all sitting close together. Be- hind our Saviour is a tree, and a vine growing upon it with grapes. The girl has hold of the vine with one hand, and in the other has a bunch of grapes, which she is ofl'ering to our Saviour. In ihL'g7C(it hall is a queen of the Amazons, by Cleomcues, being on one knee as uijder a hor.v. . WALTON nOUES. lo3 defending herself in battle, yet beautiful though in a warlike action ! It is gratifying to contem- plate one of these extraordinary and robust fe- males of antiquity. The zi-hite marble table room presents a fine pic- ture of John the Baptist preaching in the wil- derness of Judea; the figures, about twenty, being as large as life, are full of expression. In the lobby may be seen a piece of ancient painting, being a representation of Ilichard the Second, in his youth, at his devotions. At the bottom of the picture these words, — Invention of ■painting in oil, 1410, are inscribed. The King's beiUdiamber contains a painting, by Albert Durer, of Christ taken down from the cross, exhibiting ten other figures with indica- tions of solemnity. The Virgin has her right hand under our Saviour's head, as in the act of lift- ing upthebody,whilc Joseph of Arimathea, richly dressed, is wrapping the linen cloth round him. Behind Joseph are two men, one of whom has the superscription in his hand, and the crozcn of thorns upon his arms : the other appears talking to him, pointing with one hand to the Virgin, and with the other towards Joseph. On the other side is St. John with his hands folded to- gether, -shewing great concern. Mary Magdalen is wiping off the blood, and wrapping the linen round our Saviour's feet. The Virgin's sister is speaking to Nicodemus, who gives order about tlie spices. Behind are two men, one holds tlic nailstaken from the cross, the other the hammer N 154 JUVENILE TOLRIST. and pincers. Here the tomb is secn---tlie stone rolling tVoui the entrance of it — Mount Calvary, with bones and sknlls scattered abont, where the crosses stand; and lastly, the multitude returning to Jerusalem ! 'Ihe geometrical stair-case in this noble mansion is well worth inspection. It is an admirable piece of workmanship, and the first of the kind executed in this country. In the gardens, elegantly laid out, there is a canal, over which the Falladiaii bridge has been thrown, the most beautiful structure of this de- scription in England. After crossing the bridge you ascend an eminence, whence you enjoy a view of Salisbury cathedral, and a prospect over the adjacent country. Tliroughout the whole of this princely scat, nature and art have conspired to produce the finest adjustments. We are impressed by the union of taste and judg- ment : Something there is more needful than expencc. And something previous c'eii to taste — 'tis seo^e ; Good, scufe, which onl^ is the gift of licav'n, And though uo science, fairly worth the sevem ! roPE. The celebrated Fonthill also, late the .seat of Mr. Ucckford, (the son of the patriotic Lord Mayor, whose monument may be seen in Guild- hall) lies at no great distance from Salisbury. It was my wish to have visited the ancient city of Winchester, were it only to have con- WINCHESTER. 135 templated the spot in the cathedral;, vvlierelie in- terred the renuiiiis of tlie venerable Isaac Wal- ton, whose Complete j^/igler has amused my va- cant hours. His Biogiaphi/ likewise of Dr. Donne, Sir Henry Wotton, Richard Hooker, George Herbert, and Bishop ScUiderson, is valu- able on accountof the simplicity with which it is written. Mr. Zouch deserves the thanks of the public for having published an handsome edi- tion in quarto, of these lives, accompanied with notes. Walton died in 168:3, upwards of ninety years of age, coming to hi'i grave like a shock of corn in itsfuU&easnn. SiiRVE Godand be cheer- ful, was the principle on which this good man acted. His memory I revere, and his virtues are deservirig of imitation. No difference of opinion shall ever induce me to think less favourably of that moral worth by which he was distinguished, and which predominates in a less or greater de- gree throughout all the denominations of tlie Christian world. Winchester was the hirth-phtce of the cele- brated Bishop L.owTii,who was born there 17 10. His father the Rev. William Lowth, was pre- bend of Winchester, and made a figure in the republic of letters. His son Robert, like the Hebrew poet when his father winged his flight to heaven, caught his mantle, and a double por- of his sp^/77 rested upon him. He was educated at Winchester college, and completed his studies at ISew College, Oxford. Though he applied himself vigourously to classical pursuits, yet he iSa JUVENILE TOURIST. frequently unbent his mind by letting his ima- ginjition rove through the flowery regions of Poetry. But he soon occupied his attention ^vith nobler and subliiner objects — elucidating the sacred Scriptures, and thus promoting their efficacy over the consciences and lives of man- kind. Having been made successively Bishop of Limerick, St. David's, Oxford, and London, he Avas oiTered the archiepiscopal see of Canterbury, which he declined. Indeed having been much addicted to study throughout the whole of hislife, he began to experience those diorders incident to sedentary persons. These, with several strokes of domestic calamity, served to accelerate his dissolution. He died 1787, aged 77 — meeting the last foe with fortitude and resignation. This worthy prelate lost a daughter in the 13tii year of her age, of whom he was passionately fond ; on her mausoleum he placed this beautiful epitaph ; Care, v;ile Ingenio prsstnns pl^tatc, pudorc, Ki piusqiuim naUt; nomine ci.ra, vale ! Cara Maria, vale ! ac veniot fclicius oevuni Quando itcrum tecum, sim raodo dignus, cro. Cara redi, laita tnin dicaro voce, pnternos i'ja age in amplcxus, cara Maria, redi ! V\'hich Mr. Duncombe has thus happily trans- lated : Drarer than daughter, parallel'd hy few In genius, goodness, iiiodesijr, — adieu ! Adieu ! Maria — till tiiat day more blest, Vticii, if deserving, I with thee %hi.\l rest. WINCHESTEHV 137 Came, then thy sire will cry in joyful strairr, O ! come to my paternal arras again ! Dr. Lowth, besides his well-known Encrlisk Grammar, published in 1758, the Life ofWiUiunt of IVykeham, the founder of the colleges in which he had received his education : aud in 17"S appeared his Translation of Isaiah ; this elegant version of the evangelical prophet, on which learned men in every part of Europe have been unanimous in their eulogiums, is alone suffici- ent to transmit his name to posterity. Since writing the above respecting Winches- ter, I have visited this ancient city: — it is of no great extent, but its appearance is venerable. The castle where the assizes are held, has acurious reiic, jirthur's round table, fixed over the seat of judg- ment, whilst behind this structure is seen a large pile of building, originally designed as a palace for Charles the Second ; but, a few years ago^ destined for the abode of French prisoners. The College, built by William O'f Wykeham, consists of two courts, a library, and a chapel ; the schools having apartments for seventy scholars! But above all, is the cathedral, which is an im- mense mass of building, of great antiquity, and was for many years the burying place of most of the English, Saxon and Norman Kings. Indeed it was peculiarly awful and solemn to behold, on each side of the choir, a range oi' mortutui/ cheds, with the ashes of these monarchs in them ; parti- cularly of the father of Alfred, so renowned in journals of English History ! There were a mim- N ^ 138 JUVEVILE TOURIST. ' Ler of old monuments ; also, several elegant modern ones, especially those of Hoadly and Warton, both of which have been greatly and justly admired. In the monmnent of Hoadly, the champion of civil and religious liberty, the marble has, by the artist, been made mosthap- ])ily to imitate tha delicacy of the lawn sleeves, and the soft foldings of the silken vestments ! I did not forget to ask for the grave of my old friend Isaac Ualton, which was shewn me, and \\i)ich I contemplated with veneration. Aflat stone marked the spot with a simple inscription. It was a small inclosed place, hid from public ob- servation, in this respect not unaptly indicative oftkegood man, who lies below, for his modest and unobtrusive virtues were, during the whole of his life time, the subjectof private admiration. Quitting the cathedral, I walked about in differ- ent directions, and found that there had been formerly a great number of religious houses, in and about the city. Not far from Winchester, to the south-east, lies Portsmouth, having one of the finest harbours in the world. The place itself, lying very low, like all sea-port towns, has nothing particular to recom- mend it, excepting the immense buildings be- longing to government. These, in the year 1776, were burnt down after a singular manner, by a profligate character, known to the public by the name of John the Painter, who liaving been j tried at Winchester, was executed on the spot, and afterwards hung in chains on tlie opposite , PORTSMOUTH. 13<> side of the water! The dock-yards are so extensive, that upwards of a thousfnid men are constantly em- ployed. It is deemed the most regular fortress in Britain. Opposite the town is the spacious road oi Spithead ; where the men of war, pepared for actual service, ride in safety. Here, in 178;?, the Royal George sunk, (owing to neglect) and the brave Admiral Kempenfelt, with some hun- dreds, perished. Portsea is very large and po- pulous, built on Portsmouth common, and erect- ed on the express condition, that the houses should be thrown down on the landing of the enemy. On the west side of Portsmouth harbour, over which there is a constant ferry, lies Gosport, a place of great business, especially in time of war. Here is a large iron foundry for the use of the navy, and a little to the south of the town is that noble building IJadar Hospital, for the cure of I'he sick and wounded seamen. It has a strong fort well mounted with cannon to defend the i.'hannel. Beyond lies the Isle of JVight, whose principal town is Newport ; and whose rural scenes arc the perfection of picturesque beaut}-. It is about twenty-one miles in length, thirteen in breadth, containing live towns, thirty parishes, and tv/enty-two thousand inhabitants. Having no manufacture excepting that of salt, it is devoted almost solely to husbandry. See Cooke's IScxo rid lire of the Isle of JVight, with thirty six plates. 140 JUVENILE TOURIST. which will give the readera just idea of the most beautiful and romantic spots in the Island. But I must return from this digression respecting Winchester and Portsmouth, and hasten to the remaining part of my journey. My friend and I now set our Aices home- ^•ard ; taking the stage for London at Salisbury, we first came to the little town of Stockbndge, a borough which Sir Richard Steel formerly repre- sented in parliament. An incident is related re- specting his being chosen at this place. He car- ried his election by sticking a large apple full of guineas, and declaring it should be the prize of that man whose wife should be the first brought to bed after that day nine months, lliis merry offer procured him the interest of all the ladies, who, it is said, commemorate Sir Ricli- ard's bounty to this day, and once made an at- tempt to procure a standing order of the corpo- ration, that no man should be received as a can- didate, who did not oilier himself on the same terms. The town has some good inns, and is thought to contain the best wheelwrights and carpenters in the country. Had we gone through Winchester to London, wc should have passed through ylbesford and Fainham; the former distinguished only for its handsome parsonage-house, where Hoadly, the youngest son oflhe bishop, wrote several dramas : the latter, remarkable only for its palace, which is the summer residence of the bishop of Win- t TWICKENHAM. 141 Chester. In its neighbourhood are extensive Iiop plantations. The other towns, Bashigstoke, Bagshot, Egham, Staines, and Hounslow, through which we returned, have been already described. But as Brentford, Turnham-green, Hammersmith, Kensington, and Knightsbridge, were noticed on my leaving Loudon, so Twickenham, Richmond, Kew, and Fulham, two of them lying on the other side of the river Thames, shall now, on my return, be the subject, of consideration. It will form a proper conclusion to this my Western ex- cursion. Ticickenham, ten miles from London, is de- lightfully situated, and has a number of hand- some seats vv'ith which it is enriched and adorned. We shall just mention Sirawhevry Hill, the ele- gant Gothic villa of the late Earl of Orford, now the residence of the Hon. Mrs. Darner. The late noble resident had a printing-press here, and in his works may be found views of the place, drawn with fidelity. The other scat here is that of Mr. Pope, who, by his description of the spot in his letters, has conferred upon it an immortality. The two weeping willows, planted by the bard, still remain, and slips of these trees Avere, in 17S9, sent to the Empress of Russia, who had them planted in her garden at Peters- burgh. Since the time of Pope, the grotto and other i>arts, particularly of late, are much altered. Sir William Stanhope, who purchased the place on the poet's death, added two wings, and eii- Inrgcd the garden : — J42 JUVENILK TOURIST. The humbleroof, the garden's scanty line, IFl suit the genius of llie bnrd divine ; I'ut fancy now displays a fairer scope. And Stanhope's plans unfold the soul of Pope ! Rkhrnond is by some said to be the finest vil- lage in the British dominions. Its ancient name Sheene, derived from the Saxon, is significant of its resplendent situation. It was for a series of years the residence of royal personages. Here, according to Bishop Burnet, the Pretender was nursed ! Kichmond-hill is thus celebrated by our favourite Thomson :— ■ Saj', shall we ascend Thy hill, delightful Sheene ? Here let us sweep Thy boundless landscape — now the raptur'd eye Exulting, swift to huge Aiijusta send — Kow to the sister-hills that skirt her plain ; To lofty Harrow now, and now to where JMajestic Windsor lifts his princely brow ! Heavens ! what a goodly prospect spreads around. Of hills and dales, and woods, and lawns, and spirei, A\A glittering towns, and gilded streams, till all 'i he sketching landscape into smoke decays ! The remains of Thomson he interred at Rich- mond churcli ; nor was there any thing to point out the spot till tiie Earl of Buchan, eldest bro- ther of the late Lord Chancellor Erskine, placed, in the year 179'^, upon a brass tablet, the fol- lowing inscription : — " In the earth below this tablet are the remains of James Thomson, author of the beautiful poems entitled the Seasons, the Castle oj' Indolence, 8cc. who died at Richmond, KEW. 145 August 1748. Tlie Earl of Buchan, unwilling that so good a man, and sweet a poet, should be with- out a memorial, has denoted the place of his inter- ment for the satisfaction of his admirers." A more expressive eulogy never was delivered on any poet, than what is contained in these well- known lines, written for Tliorason by the late Lord Lyttleton : — No part3' his bencToIenceconfin'd ; No sect — alike it flow'd to all mankind ; Such was the man — the poet well you know. Oft has he touch'd your hearts with tender woe ; For his chaste Muse employ'd lier heav'n-taught Jyre None but the noblest passions to inspiie ; Not one immoral, one corrupted thought. One line, which dying, he could wish to blot! AVithin these walls also is deposited the body of the Rev. Gilbert Wakefield, of classical me- mory. His brother who was for many years rector of this parish, is lately deceased. The brothers though of different opinions, were closely united in the bonds of fraternal affection. Kew'xii the occasional residence of his present Majesty, where he is now building a veic palace of handsome white stone, all in the Gothic style, with round towers, which will be soon finished. This has been already noticed. A stately bridge connects the village with the eastern extremity of Brentford. Its gardens are enchanting, and the Great Pagoda, reared in imitation of a Chi- nese temple, and seen from afar, constitutes a pleasing object of decoration. Its chapel con- 144 JUVENILE TOURIST. tains ihe monuments of Gai7isboioiigJi, the land- scape painter, and Mejjcr, the miniature-painter : on that of the latter are these lines by Hay- ley : — Age after age, may not one arlist yield Equal to ihee in painting's nicer field — And ne'er sliall sorrowing earth to lieav'n commend A louder parent, or a truer friend ' Fulham shall be just mentioned, because it has been the demesne of the Bishops of London ever since the conquest. Here the prelate of this diocese resides, and the tombs of bishops Compton, Robinson, Gibson, llayter, Terrick, and Lowlh, are to be found in the church-yard. The grave abolishes all distinctions — it is the ttrminalion of human glory :- — The lawn-rob'd prelate and the plain prrsbvter, T>e wliilethat stood aloof as bhy to meet. Familiar mingle liere like sister-streams, il.at some rude interposing rock liad split ! BLAin. Nothing now remains, but that I notice our approach to tlie Metropolis, the glory of our island— the wonder of the world ! The nearer we drew to London, we observed that the roads were more frecpiented, and every ibing indicated an air of bustle and confusion. The continual travelling to and from the metro- polis, is iv matter of astonishment. It is thought (i) contain a million of inhabitants, which is 145 the ' liiis I of e of lS in at Its inl- and. IS to ition fmj :dea- truc- nie ; jtion deli- ional ment RfclTURN TO THE METROPOLIS. 145 the number of persons said lo have occupied the whole island at the time of its invasion by Julius Cajsar, about fifty years before the birth of Christ ! and yet from the continual increase of new buildings, it seems that its population is in a state of augmentation. The entrance at TIj/de-Paik-Corner is worthy of a great city. Its cluster of lighted lamps generates a vivid im- pression on the eye, in a winter's evening, and upon his return to the metropolis, announces to the weary traveller the approaching termination of his journey. You have now, my dear Sir, the sketch of my Excursion into the JVest, in which I have endea- voured to combine entertainment, and instruc- tion. The excursion itself, indeed, pleased me ,• l)ut it would require a portion of presumption for me to suppose, that the perusal of this deli-- neation of it can have imparted a proportional gratification. I remain, my dear Sir, with every sentiment of respect, "four's, sincerely, J. K. AN EXCURSION INTO THE MIDLAND COUNTIES ENGLAND, AND Tart of the South2rn District of Wales, o 2 349 LETTER I. BEAUTIES OF A FINE MOKNING J HIGHGATE; FINCHLEY-COM ' MON ; whetstone; chipping barnet ; seat of ceorge BYNG, ESQ.; ST. ALBAn's ; ITS ABBEY; BATTLES FOUGHX NEAR it; monument and ANECDOTES of Bacon ; ORICIIf OF ST. ALBAN's and ANTIQUITY ; DR. YOUNG ; DUNSTA- BLE ; WOOBURN-AIiBEY, SEAT OF THE DUKE OF BEDFORD ; ANECDOTES OP THE FAMILY; NEWPORT PAGNEL; COWPER THE POET ; AMPTHILL ; NORTHAMPTON; ITS CHURCHES, IN- FIRMARY AND TOWN-HALL ; DODDRIDGE ANDHERVEY; A TOKEN OF RESPECT TO THEIR MEMORY. MY DEAR YOUNG FRIEND, 1 HE entertainment which you were pleased to say you received from the perusal of my Excur- sion into the West of England, has induced me to send you the following narrative, which it is hoped may afford a similar gratification. It has been my aim, in the direction of your studies, to blend together amusement and instruction, thus rendering the ordinary incidents of life subser- vient to improvement. Leaving London in the month of June, the Northampton stage took me up at Islir^gton, about five o'clock on a very fine morning. The dew, by which the vegetable creation had been moistened and refreshed during the night, the o 3 150 JUVENILE TOURIST. rays of tlie sun were now seen gradually exhaling — thus at once enlivening and invigorating the face of nature. My senses, indeed, were on every side regaled ; the ear and the eye in par- ijcular, at this early time of day, received a more than ordinary degree of gratification : For who the melodies of morn can tell ? The wild brooli babbling down the mountain's side. The lowing herd, the bhepherd's simple bell. The pipe of car]_y sliepherd dim descried. In the lone valley ; eclioing far and wide, The clamorous horn, along the cliffs above. The hollow murmur of the ocean tide. The hum of bees and linnet's lay of love. And the full choir that wakes the universal grove !' The cottage curs at earhj pilgrim bark, Crown'd with her pail, the tiipping miik-niaid sings, The wliistling ploughman stalks a-field, and hark ! Down the rough slope tlie ponderous waggon rings. Through rustling corn the hare astunish'd springs ; Slow tolls the village clock the drowsy liour, The partridge bursts away on whirring wings. Deep mourns the turtle in sequester'd bower. And shrill lark carols clear froai licr aerial tour ! MINSTKEL. Having ascended Highgatc-ltill we seemed to breathe a more attenuated atmosphere, and began to vicv," with pleasure the beauties of the sur- rounding country. From the brow of the hil> we are presented wilh a view of tiie Mctropohs,.. extending fromCheleea to Limehouse ! The nu- mt-rous steeples impart to the city a beautiful appearance, while St. Paul's cathedral and West- HIGHGATE. "■ 151 minster abbey, rearing their awful heads, confer s;rancleur and solemnity. Higligate is a pleasant village, and the resort ofsenteel families durinsj the summer season. At this place the absurd custom is almost obso- lete of swearing the country people on their way to London ; — a pair of large horns are produced, when they take an oath, not to eat hrozcn bread provided they can gef zchite, &)C. They are then taxed with a treat of liquor to the company. It was at the Earl of Arundel's house, Highgate, that the great Lord Bacon breathed his last, the 9th of April, 1626, in the 66th year of his age. He owed his death to an excessive prosecution of his experiments in philosophy. Li the last letter he ever wrote, he compares himself to Pliny the elder, who lost his hfe by inquiring into the first tremendous eruption of Vesuvius, with a too dangerous curiosity. From Highgate is a gradual descent into a de- lightful country. Having once had lodgings here, I recollected with pleasure, the purity of its air, and the extent of the prospect which cheers the eye and gladdens the heart. We soon rolled along over Finchley Co7n7non, once noted for the depredations of highwaymen, whose bodies suspended on thegibbet used here to meetthe eye of the traveller in terrible succession ! Itis now cleared oflhese unhappy men, who infest and disgrace civilized society. On this Common was encamped, in the year' 1745, a large body of troops, whence they marched Northward; for the 152 JUVENILE TOURIST. supp ression of the rebellion then raging in Scot- land. The Guards proceeding to Finchleif Com7noji> on this memorable occasion, by Hogarth, is a picture, which we have all seen : it exhibits a laughable scene of confused merriment and diver- sion. On tlie verge of the common are some neat villas recently erected : and Whetstone^ a little village at its extremity, is recommended to us by its rural simplicity. Chipping Barnet is a small town of no distinc- tion ; it has indeed a rough pillar standing in the middle of the road, which commemorates a bloody battle fought on that spot, Easter Day, 147 1. The contest was between the tv/o houses of York and Lancaster, and proved decisive in fa- vour of Edward IV. his great foe, the king-ma- king Earl of Warwick being slain. The mis- chiefs of WAR are incalculable. The inflamed passions of men in arms resemble the iornadoy which sweeps every object into destruction ! Alas ! even now \Vlieii science roams at large about the world. When men would fain be iliought exceeding wise. And talk of reason and religion too, As though their hearts felt what their tongues repeat. Even now the mo.nsteii triumphs ! AMrilLETT. A few miles beyond Barnet, on the right,- stands the seat of one of the present members, for Middlesex, George Byng, Esq. au enlight- ened and consistent friend of liberty. AVc reached St. J/bausixbout breakfast-time, distant twenty-one miles from Lonr'on, The. antiquity of this place entitles it to attention. ST. alban's. 15S The town of St. Alban's is not large, but of rather a pleasant appearance. It has little trade of any kind. The magnitude ofits abbe^^-church strikes the eye of the beholder with awe. Its in- terior is enriched with monuments worthy at- tention. That of Humphrey, commonly called the Good Duke of Gloucester, has an inscription alluding to the detection of a false miracle, com- mon in the asre of credulity, when he lived. Upon the pulling up of a trap-door you descend into a vault, containing a battered leaden coffin, with a few bones, said to be those ot Duke Hum- phrey ; to deny or prove the assertion is equally impossible. I however took the bones into ray hand, when a melancholy sensation stole across my mind, suggested by the passing nature of all human glory ! In or near this town two battles were f on ght in the bloody wars of York and Lancaster. That in 1445, was the first conflict, and terminated in favour of the Yorkists. The valliant Clifford and the great Earl of Somerset were slain in it, and the king, Henry VI. taken prisoner. The second battle, in 1401, ended in a complete vie-- tory to Queen Margaret, at the head of the Lan- castrians. In one of the churches belonging to St. Alban's is a handsome monument to the memory of Lord Chancellor Bacon, whose death at Highgate has been alread)?- mentioned. He is represented sitting in a chair in a thoughtful posture, and 154 JUVENILE TOURIST. beneath him is a latin inscription to this pur- port : ''Francis Bacon, Bsron of Verulam and Viscount of St. Alban ; or by his more known titles, the Light of the Sci- ences and the Law of Eloquence, was thus accustomed to sit; who, afltT having unravelled all the mysteries of na- tural and civil wisdom, fulfilled the decree of nature — That things joined should hclooseii! — in the yearof our Lord 1626, and of his age 66. Tills was erected to the memory of so great a man by Thomas Meaiity?, who reverenced him while living, and admires him dead !" The above inscription is the panegyric of a friend,but just in point of literary commendation. Pope and Thomson, indeed, alhiding to the charge of bribery, have delineated his character with impartiality, though we do not look for the exactness of truth in the language of poetry : — If parts allure thee, think how Bacon shin'd. The wisest, brightest, meanest, of mankind ! roPK. Thine is a Bacon, hapless in his choice. Unfit to stand the civil storms of state ; ^ And through tlie rude barbarity of Courts, With firm, but pliant virtue, forward still To urge his course — him for the studious shade Kind nature form'd — deep, comprehensive, clear. Exact and elegant — in one rich soul I'lato, the stajjyrite, and Tully join'd. The great deliverer he ! who, from the gloom Of cloister'd IMonksand jargon-teaching schoolSj, Led forth the true philosophy — there long Held in the magic charms of words and formSj And definitions void, he led her forth. LORD BACON. 155 Daughter of Heav'n ! that slow ascending still. Investigating sure the chain of things, With radiant finger points to heav'n again. This is not the place for investigating his po- litical character ,- but the greatest blame is laid upon his servants. There is no doubt that some of them were guilty of bribery, and that their Lord had this opinion of them ; for one day, during his trial, passing through a room where his domestics were sitting, upon their rising to salute him, he said, Sit down, triT/ masters, your rise has been my fall! The author of the Biogra- phia Britannica remarks, that it was peculiar to Lord Bacon to have nothing' narrow or selfish in his composition ; he gave away without concern whatever he possessed, and believing other men of the same mind, he received with as little con- sideration. In the vicinity of St. Alban's are the vestiges of the town of Verulam, famous in the days of the Romans. The old walls lying scattered through- out the fields, and almost concealed from the eye by the luxuriancy of vegetation, created a solemn impression on my mind. It is conjectured, from the situation of Ve- rulam, that it was the town of Cassivelaumts, so well defended by woods and marshes, which was taken by Caesar. In Nero's time it was esteemed a Mimicipium ; or a town whose inhabitants en- Joyed the rights and privileges of Roman citi- 2 136 JUVENILE TOURIST. zens. It was injured by the Britons during the war between the Romans and Boadicea, queen of the Iceni : though V erulani flourished again, and became a city of note, about the middle of the fifth century it fell into the hands of the Saxons : but Uther Pendragon, the Briton, reco- vered it with difficuky. After his death, Verulam fell again into the hands of the Saxons ; but by frequeni wars it was at last ruined. St. Alban's, it is well known, derives its name from Alban, said to be the first martyr for Chris- tianity in Britain; and it is generally agreed that he suffered during the great persecution under the reign of ])iocletian. The story, however, told by Bede, is too miraculous for be- lief. And the immortal Milton, speaking of his history, concludes with saying, that " his mar- tyrdom, foiled and worse martyred with the fab- ling zeal of some idle fancies, more fond of mira- cles than apprehensive of truih, deserves no longer digression. " Indeed the history of St. Alban's is interwoven with a large portion of British history. A little higher up stands the parish of Welzeyn, where Dr. Edward Young was rector for many years, dying there in the year 170.5, at a very advanced period of life. On this spot his N?gAi Thoughts were composed, which, though a favou- rite with the public, on account of its interesting melanclioli', yet seems in some detached parts to reflect on the divine goodness. Hence on their first appearance, an ingenious reply was made to ©UNSTABLE. 157 iliose parts, entitled i)^/j/ Thoughts, or a Vindica- tion of the Benevolence of the Deify.* We next came to Dunntable, a poor place, jnst within the horders of Bedfordshire. Here we changed coaches, being half way to North- ampton. A manufacture of straw hat?, with hand-baskets and toys, is the chief employ of the inhabitants. Fashion, that fickle goddess, now favours this species of human ingenuity, it so happened that several women were assembled in the n^idst of the street near the inn, scolding aboi\t some theft which had that mf)rning been committed amongst llicm by oneoftlieir chil- dren. One female, pale and trembling with passion, discovered no contemptible powers of oratory ! In this town the sentence of divorce was pro- nounced against Catherine, queen of Henry the Eighth, by Archbishop Cfanmer. Many roads leading to London meet liere together, which gave rise to the old adage, " As plain as Dun- stable road." Mr. Woodward having mentioned that the larks about this place are remarkably large, and esteemed the best in England, hu- mourously adds, 'MV^hy the hest'i is the en- quiry of the naturalists : are their notes more melodious~-\he\x plumage richer — their shape more elegant '^— Wold. \ inquisitive reader I the * See tlje Beaiities of Ymiiig, witli a memoir prefixed by J. Evans. Anecdotes M'ill be there found illustrative of a strange mixture of melanclioly and cheerfulness; by which this cmincKt poet was distinguished. P 358 JUVENILE TOUniST. centle writer is sorry to inform ihec, iliat thcf arc iicncnilly esteemed the best for the spit, and an aj)i)roved addition to a city entertainment." IVoohnrn was the next tow^n at which we ar- rived, having a large church ; but it is an incon- siderable place of no celebrity. One thing, how- ever, created a smile. The few streets, which are indifferently laid out, are at each corner dis- tinguished by a name, after the manner of our metropolis! It was nearly destroyed by fire in 17-4 ; but was rebuilt, together with the market- place, by the Duke of Bedford, Wooburn Sands are of some extent, and the patience of tlie tra- veller is [)ut to the test by wading through them. Near Wooburn stands Wooburn Abbey, the seat of the Duke of Bedford a venerable mansion, encircled by a park of con^derable extent. The annual sheep-shearing feast had just been held, and was attended by crowds of people. Agri- culturalists, even from Germany and Ireland, ■were present on the occasion. Prizes are given away to the meritorious competitors — and hun- dreds entertained by his grace, with old English liospitaiity ! From time immemorial, sheep-shearinghas been a period of rural festivity. These harmless ani- mals yield their fleecy coverings for our comfort and support, but under the hands of the shearer they must experience uneasy sensations. The dissipation of their fears is thus delineated by ^our favourite poet, Thomson: BUKE OF BEDFORD. 159 Fear not, ye gentle tribes ! 'tis not the kni^c Of Iiorrid slaughter that is o'er you wav'd ; No, 'tis the tender swain's well-guided shears. Who having now, to pay his annual share, Borrow'd your fleece, to you a cumbrous load. Will send you bounding to jour hills again ! The late amiable Dake turned his attention to thepursuits of agriculture. He;;ce the origin of this institution. His premature and sudden death was a loss to tbiC country. To use the words of that eloquent statesman, the late Mr. Fox, " He was carried off at a period of life when he was young enough to enjoy all its blessings, and vigorous enough to perform allits duties ; when he himself looked forward to years of happiness, and when society might have expected to be long benefitted by his benevolence, his energy and his wisdom. Had lie been snatched away in early youth, however distressing the event to bi.5 relations, the public calamity would not have been so considerable. The fairest promises are often fallacious : the best founded hopes are not always fulfilled. He is as deeply and universallv lamented as ever any subject was, and he must long livQ in the recollection of a grateful poste- rity." It is, but justice to add, that the present Duke of Bedford, and late Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, treads in the footsteps of his illustrious brother, and enters into his patriotic scheme;? with cordiality. Wooburn Abbey is an extensive and macni- 160 JUVENILE TOURIST. fleent pile, liaving the yppearance of ducal ^ig- jiit}'. Its ground-plan forms a square of 200 feet, containing a quadrangular court of no small di- mensions. Among the uumLcr of paintings^ by Tviiich the interior is embellished, portraits con- stitute the chief excellence of the collection. That of Loj-d JVilliam Rmsel, beheaded in the centre of Lintola'sinn fields, July l683, merely for his attachment to the constitution and liber- ties of his country, cannot be conteniphited by the family without interesting emotions. When, five years afterwards, James the Second hearing of the landing of the Prince of Orange, re- quested the advice of the Earl of Bedford, Lord Russel's faiher, the Earl replied in these terms of pointed reproach — ** I had a son, Sire, who coukl have advised your majesty !" Merciless aie the ravages of tyranny. A certain writer sjienking of this part of the country, and noticing the quantities of fir and other trees near the adjacent roadf, forming antique boughs into impenetrable thickets, ob- serves, "Tiiat in the autumnal season at the time of sun set, nothing in nature can be more beautiful than these thickets : for by their broad iight and shade, and varied dispositions, they afford a rich treat to the admirers of woodland scenery. As the sun gradually sinks below the liorizon, evury leaf of the stately oak and tow- ering elm aj)pears studded with gold, which is every where finely contrasted by the deep green of ionumcrablc lirs j while the glowing yeilow of COWPER. 161 the departing rays of light reflected from the ad- joining sands, adds additional splendour to the landscape." We came to Newport Pagnell, a town with tolerable good inns. Here we dined. The ma- nufacture of lace is carried on in the town and neighbourhood, which is a sort of mart for that article, and flourishes by that means. The pajier manufacture is the other branch of their em- ployment. Within a few miles of Newport Pagnell, Cow- PER, the poet, resided ; first at Obey, and then at the little village of Weston, where the Task was composed in a style which has rendered it the subject of public admiration. The charms of this part of the country are introduced into his poems ; and the elegant work lately publisiied, entitled ** Coupe?' Illustrated" with twelve engra- ved views, proves that the poet had copied na- ture with fidelity. He died April ^oth, ibOO, ha- ving been reduced for some time before his de- cease to a state of extreme debility. The life of Cowper, by JVIr. Hayley^ may be termed an ele- gant and affectionate tribute of respect to ins memory. " Nature (says his biographer) was prodigal of her favours to Cowper, in person as well as in mind. He was of a middle stature, rather strong and delicate in the form of his limbs — his hair was of a light brown colour, his eyes a bluish grey, his complexion ruddy, and even when oppressed with age, his features ex- pressed all the powers of his mind and all the p 3 162 JUVENILE TOURIST. sensibility of his heart. By a fervent application to the bible, and studying the eloquence and energy of, the prophets, he made the best possi- ble preparation for great poetical achievements, and incessantly treasured in his mind those stores of sublimity, sentiment and expression, whicli gradually raised him to the purest heights of po- etical renown. He has proved that verse and devotion are natural allies : he has shown that true poetical genius cannot be more deliglitfully employed, than in diffusing through the lieart and mind of man a filial affection] for his Maker, with a firm and cheerfid trust in his word — and the universal admiration excited by his writings, will be heightened to the friends of virtue, by the reflection, that excellent as they appear, they "were surpassed by the gentleness, the benevolence, and the sanctity of his life." To you my dear young friend, this mention of Cow per calls for no apology. When under my care, you well' recollect reading the effusions of his Muse with delight. I then pointed him ont to you as the poet of Freedom and of Christianity.. In reaching Newport 1 should have mentioned that I left on the right the little town of ylmptkilly noted for having been the residence of Cathe- rine, wife of ilenry the Eighth, during the time her unjust divorce was in agitation. This event is comnumorated by the i'ollowing inscription on a (.'olumn, wliere the old castle stood. 'J 'he co- lumn itself coist above lOi)/. and the lines were •written by Horace Walpole; NORTHAMPTON. I6S In da^-s of old here Aniptliill's towers were seen. The mournful refuge of an injur'd queen ; Here flowed her pure, but unavailing tears. Here blinded zeal suytain'd her sinking years ; Yet Freedom hence her radiant banner wav'd. And love aveng'd a realm by priests enslav'd. From Catherine's wrongs a nation's bliss was spread. And Luther's light from Henry's lawless bed ! About seven in the evening we reached North- ampton passing by a fine Gothic edifice called Queens Cross, within a mile of the town. It was erected by King Edward the First, to the me- mory of his beloved queen Eleanor : who when her husband was wounded by a Moor, in his ex- pedition to the Holy Land (1272) she sucked the venom out of the wound, by which Edward was cured, and she escaped unhurt ! The queen died at Herdley, Lincolnshire, Nov. 29, 1290. The body was carried for interment to Westminster Abbey, and at everyplace where the procession had rested. King Edward caused one of these pillars or crosses to be erected. It is pleasing to observe the tender affections operating on the higher classes of society. Amidst the pageantry of their station, they remain sus- ceptible of mutual attachments, and when bro- ken by death, are obliged to have recourse to the elegy and sepulchral column in order to as- suage the common sorrows of mortality ! In Woodward's Eccentric Excursions, travellers plodding knee-deep in the Wooburn sands, as wdli as antiquarians, &c. peeping at this cross 1G4 JUVENILE TOURIST. are represented iii an attitude calculated to excite our risibility ! Noyfliampton is a neat town, situated on the banks of the Nen. The market-place is spacious, and is reckoned one of" the handsomest in Eu- rope. All Saints church stands in the centre of the town, making a prominent appearance, the portico being supported by twelve columns of the Ionic order : and a statue of King Charles the Second ornaments the ballustrade. The in- terior of the church is neat, and decorated with several monuments. The figures of Moses and Aaron near the altar, arc entitled to attention. To the church o^ All Saints, ahead}' mentioned, attaches an humourous anecdote of Cowper the poet, told by himself in a letter to a friend, in these words. It is here introduced, because it displays the cheerfulness of his temper, though at other limes awfully depressed by derjiuge- ment. " On Monday morning last, Sam brought rne word that tlicre was a man in the kitchen uho desired to speak with me. I ordered him in. A plain decent elderly figure made iis appearance, and being desired to sit, spoke as follows ; — ** Sir, 1 am clerk of the parish of All Saints, Northamp- ton, brother of Mr. C. the upholsterer. It is cus- tomary for tlie person in my office to annex to a \n\\ of mortality which he publishes at Christ- mas a copy of verses— you would do me a great favvour. Sir, if you would furnish me with one.'* Totliis I rcjihed, " Mr. C. you have several men of gcniui in your town, why have you not ap- NORTHAMPTON. l65 pliodto some of them ? There is a namesake of youi's in particular, C the statuary, who every body knows is a first rate maker of verses; he surely of all the world, is the man for your purpose." " Alas ! Sir, I have heretofore bor- rowed help from him, but he is a gentleman of so muck reading, that the people of our town can- not understand him." I confess to you, my dear Sir, that I felt all the force of the compliment implied in this speech, and was almost ready to answer, perhaps, my good friend, they may find me unintelligible too for the same reason. But on asking him whether he had walked over to Wes- ton on purpose to implore the assistance of my Muse, and on his replying in the affirmative,! felt my mortified vanity a little consoled, and pitying the poor man's distress, which appeared to be considerable, promised to supply him ; — the waggon has accordingly gone this day to Northampton loaded in part with my effusions in the mortuary style. A fig for poets who write epitaphs upon individuals, 1 have written one that serves ttvo hundred persons 1" TYte^e famous //rtcsmay be seen subjoined to an edition of Cow- per's Poems lately published. St. Sepulchre's church, at the northern extre- mity of the town, close to the road which leads to Market Harborough, is worthy of examina- tion. It is very ancient, and built after the form of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. A singular circumstance took place there a few years agoo. During the service one morning, a noise was l66 JUVENILE TOURIST. heard beneath a pew, which increasing, the peo- ple rushed out of the church, and the good par- son coming down from the pulpit, ran after them ! The bottom of the pew was taken up, but nothing was to be seen : some thought the dis- turbance was raised by the spirit of a gentleman buried near the spot — whilst others were of opi- nion, that Satan had hit upon this wicked trick to put an end to iheir devotions ! Probably some vermin wanted the riot act xc^d to them; though it is singular that they should have been trouble- some only on this occasion. The County Itifirmary, also, is entitled to at- tention. The wards are so neat and convenient, the whole building so clean and airy, that it de- serves a hiofh desjree of commendation. The common hall, where the assizes are held, is spa- cious and well adapted for the purpose. The prison being adjoining, the culprit reaches the bar by means of a subterraneous communication. Upon the bar is a species of iron machinery resem- bling an handcuff, which is used for inflicting the punishment of burning the hand ! On the instru- ment is this motto — Come not here anain — an ad- monition one would think scarcely necessary for an individual who had once undergone so painful an operation. It seems, indeed, to intimate, either that the punishment itself was not adapted to an- swer its end, or that human depravity is seldom eradicated. Besides the churches already men- tioned, there arc two others; one with a handsome square tower, the other with an antique appear- NORTHAMPTON. l67 ancc ; there are likewise two Independent meet- ting-houses, and one belonging to the Baptists. A little out of the town is Becket's well, a fine spring of water, but I could not ascer- tain why it was thus denominated. Close to it is a beautiful walk, over-looking the mea- dows, through which the river Nen winds it- self in gentle evolutions. The streets of Nor- thampton are regular, and the houses possess uniformity. In one of the streets was shewn me an old edifice, where the original of Rich- ardson's Pamela once lived, for novelists of abi- lity generally draw their portraits from nature, and hence their admirable fidelit}'. In tlie reign of Henry the Third several dis- contented students from Oxford and Cambridge came and erected a little academy here for every branch of learning, but in a short time it was dis- solved by the king's order, because it was said, it would be a manifest damage and inconvenience to the ancient University of Oxford^'. To me, I confess, Northampton, and its vici- nity, po:?sessed aditional charms on account of their having been the residence of Doddridge and Hervey, two pious and learned divines ; the for- mer amongst the protestant dissenters, the latter belonging to the church of England. * I have been able to add this more particular description of Nortliampton, from having spent a few da_)'s there at Cliristmas, much to my satisfaction. To the Rev. Mr. H. I beg leave thus pub- licly to return my best thaiiks for his polite and friendly attentions. j68 juvenile tourist. Dr. Philip Doddridge was born in London in 1702, settled tutor at an academy at North- ampton, \1'2.\), and died of a consumption at Lisbon, 1731, whither he had gone for his reco- very. His seminary was in high reputation, and he was esteemed as well by churchmen as by dissenters. His labours and writings en- title hiui to the respect of posterity. His Fcr- mily Expositor, in six volumes, 8vo. is a treasure of sacred criticism and pious reflections. 7'he present Bishop of London recommends this work in his recent tract on the Evidences of Christi- amtif. It has gone through several octavo im- pressions. A superb quarto edition of it has been just published, with an exquisitely finished head, and appropriate embellishraen)?. A neat monument is erected to the memory of this good man in his own meeting here, and the following inscription was drawn up by his much-esteemed friend, Gilbert West, Esq. To i\\c memory of Philip Doddridge, D. D. Twenty-one Years Pttstor of this Clinrch, Director of a flourishing Acideniyj And Autlior of many excellent Wriling* ; I'y which His pious benevolent, and indefatigable Zeal To make Men wise, good, and liappy. Will far better be made known. And perpetuated much longer. Than by this obscure and perisliing Marble, Tlic humble Monument, not of his rrai<R. DODDRIDGE. l69 And who are desirous of recording, 111 tliis Inscription, Their friendly but i'aithful Testimony To the many amiable and christian Virtues That adorned his more private Character, By which, though dead, he yet speak eth. And still present in remembrance. Forcibly, though silently, adnaonisheth'^ His once beloved and ever grateful Flock. He v/as born June 26, 1702, And died October 26, 1751, Aged 50. When I was at iSorthampton;, the monument liad just been cleaned, and each individual be- longing to the congregation gave a iiifie to- wards defraying the expence ; 1 mention thiji circnmstance merely to shew the reader how much the memory of this good man is still che- rished there; for an intelligeni worthy relative of mine, Mrs. C. (now deceased) who was not a member of the meeting, told me she never gave her mite with greater pleasure and satisfaction. The pieti/ of Dr. Doddridge may be gathered from the following lines, which he wrote under the motto of his family arms, Let ks live whilst zee live — D u m v i v i m u s vita ii v s, wh ich Mr. Orton declares to be expressive of his general temper, and which Dr. Johnson pronouiices to >>e the finest epigram in tJic English language : — '• Live wliilf you live," the epicure would saj, " And seize the pleasures of tlie present day." " Live while you live," the sacred Preacher cne«, '• And give to God each moraunl as it flie? !" 170 JUVENILE TOURIST. " Lord, in m>j views let both uniled be ; " I live iii pleasure wiieu I live to Uiee .'" Nor must I omit to mention, in terms of commendation, his candour towards those who differed from him in religious sentiment. Sense- less di^stinctions, artful insinuations, and savage anathemas, he abhorred from his soul, persuaded that they had no connection with pure and un- adulterated Christianity. James Hervey, the ingenious author of the Meditations, resided at the little village of Wes- ton Favcll, about three miles from Northampton. The Rev. Mr. H. the worthy, though not the im- mediate successor of the late Dr. Doddridge, both in his congregation and academy, obli- gingly accompanied me thither, and the walk gave rise to pleasing sensations. Upon my reaching the church of Weston, of which Her- vey was rector many years, 1 was surprised at the smallnessandmeannessof itsappearance. On en- tering the edifice, the eye was caught by no long aisles, pompous monuments, or indeed splen- did embellishments of any description. Plain and unadorned, it had no one thing to recom- mend it except the recollection that within these walls the pious and charitable Hervey exercised his ministry, and that hcrehh remains were dc[)o- sited u\\ the resurrection of the just ! Close to the communion-table, within the rails by which it stood encircled, I discovered a sLone void of de- coratioU; and inscribed with the following lines. TOMB OF HERVEY. 171 after informing the reader that he breathed his last- on Christmas-Day, 1 758, aged 45 : — Reader, expect no more to make liuii known ; Vain the fond elegy and tlgur'd stone ; A name more lasting shall his writings give ; There view displav'd his heavenly soul, and live ! The lateness of the evening left nie scarcely enough of light to pick out the inscription, and threw a gloom over the place, which impressed me witli an additional solemnity. It is at such moments that the soul, concentrating her pow- ers, meditates on the vanity of terrestrial enjoy- ments, and feels the inestimable value of that ue- "VELATiON which brings /ij'e and iinmuiiaiit^ to light ! You will not, my yoimg friend, blame me for my curiosity in visiting sjjots, (several having been noticed in the course of this letter,) which eminent men have liallowed by their exertions to promote the best interests of mankind. The theologian, as well as the literary man, is entitled to his gratification. Dr. Beattie, in drawing the character of a beloved son, of whom he was prematurely deprived by death, mentions this ciuiositj/ among the commendable traits for which he was distinguished. " He had a passion," says this pleasing writer, " for visiting places that had been remarkable as the abodes of eminent men, or that retained any memorials of them ; and as in this I resembled bim, we ofter) walked together on what we called Q 2 I7'i JUVENILE TOURIST. classic jrround. Westminster Abbcv, in the neishbourhood of which we lived several months, was a ftivourite haunt of" his, and suggested many images •aid meditations. He had wandered in the bowers ofTwickenham, and amidstthe more majestic scenes of Blen!ieim and Windsor. At O.xiord, where he passed some time, he met with many interesting objects and attentive friends. He kissed, (literally he did so,) the grave-stone which cos'ers the dust of Shakespeare, at Strat- ford, and sat in the same chimney-corner, and in the same chair in uhich tradition telis that tln^ immortal bard was wont to sit. He once or twice visited the house, and even the ch^ibcr, (near Coltsworth, in Lincolnshire,) in which Sir Isaac Newton is said to have been born. The last time he and I were at Cambridge, J gratified him with a sight of those apartments in Pembroke Hall which were once honoured witli Uie resi- dence of my memorable and long-lamented friend Mr. Gray, of whom he was a warm admirer, he being the greatest poetical genius that Britain had produced since Milton, lie composed an ode to the genius of Gray, of which I (ind among his papers a lew stanzas, but far the greater part is irrecoverably lost. This ode, 1 think, he wrote or planned while we were passing some time, in 1787, at Windsor, where, from the terrace, he liad a view of Stoke church, in which Gray is buried, and towards which I often found him di- recting his eyes."' Pleading such a precedent, you cannot with A TRIBUTE TO DEPARTED GENIUS. 173 justice censure my curiosity. Indeed^ the de- sire of visiting places on which talents, and vir- tue, and piety, have shed a kind of sanctity, is connected with the hest feelings of our nature and affords refined gratification. Great and good men even when they are no more, may be hkened to certain Leaves, which, after they have fallen in the autumnal season from the trees which they once enriched and decorated, leave hehind tliem a kind of fragrance with which the surrounding atmosphere is for along time after perfumed and impregnated. Such sensations should be cherished— it is a tribute of respect due to meritorious characters ; it excites an bo- Hourable emulation. 1 remain^ dear Sir, Your's &c. Q 3 174 JUVEKILE TOURIST. LETTER 11. MARKET HARBOnOt'GH ; FOTflERiNG AY CASTI.E ; EXECUTION OK MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS; BATTLE OF NASEBY; WICK- riFFE J LEICESTER; ITS ANTIQUITY; ITS M ANU FACTORIES ; ITS EXTENT AND POPULATION ; UTILITY OF CHARITY- SCHOOLS ; SINGULAR EPITAPH ^ KOMAN CURIOSITY ; IILUE BOAR INN; REMARKABLE MURDER; RUINS OF ST. MARy'S abbey; ANECDOTES OF CARDINAL WOl SEY ; REFLECTIONS OCCASIONED BY THE RUINS OF ST. MARY'S ABBEY. DEAR SIR, JN EXT morning, about seven o'clock, 1 left Nortliamptou for Market Ilarboroiigh. A lady, who had been for her daughter from a boarding- school, politely offered me a iliird part of a post- chaise as far as Leicester, which 1 cheerl'ully ac- cepted. The morning was pleasant, the road good, and driving with rapidity, we reached the place of our destination to breakfast. Market Harborough consists of one long street, in which stands the church, with a handsome Gothic tower, adding much to the appearance of the town. Being a thoroughfare on the road to Derby, Nottingham, &c. it has good inns for the accommodation of travellers. It is remark- able, that the town, although in a flourishing MARY OUEEN OF SCOTS. 175 State, lias neither fields^ meadows, nor any lands whatever belotjging to it, which gave rise to a proverb used in former times, " that a goose would eat up all the grass in Harborough." - To the right of this town, at the distance of a few miles, near Oiindle, stands Fothciingny Cas- tle, where Maey Queen of Scots, was beheaded, Feb. 8, J 587, in the 45th year of her age, hav- ing passed the hist nineleen years of her life in. captivity. This murder was perpetrated by Eliza- beth, with all the arts of hypocrisy. But Stuart and Whitaker have drawn aside the fiimsy veil, and held up the deed to the scorn of infamy. The sufferings of this beautiful, but imprudent woman, have secured to her the compassion of posterity. The calmness and dignity with which this unfortunate Princess passed through the last awful scene of her present existence is too re- markable to be here omitted. " On the morning of her execution at this castle, she dressed her- self in a rich habit of silk and velvet, and being informed by the sheriff of the county that the hoar of execution was come, she passed into ano- ther hall, were was erected the scaffold, covered with black; and she saw,v,'ith undismayed coun- tenance,'the executioners and all the preparations of death. She now began, with the aid of two women, to disrobe herself, and the executioner also lent his hand to assist her. She smiled, and said, that she was not accustomed to undress herself before so large a company, nor to be served by such valets. Her servants seeing 176 JUVENILE TOURIST. ^ her in this condition, ready to lay lier head on the block, burst into tears and lamentations. She turned about to them, put her finger on'her lips, as a sign of imposing silence on them, and having given them a blessing, desired them to pray for her. One of her maids, whom she had appointed for that purpose, covered her eyes with a handkerchief— she then laid herself down with- out any sign of fear or trepidation, and her head was severed from her body at three strokes by the executioner. He instantly held it up to the spectators streaming with blood, and agitated with the convulsions of death. The Dean of Peterborough alone exclaimed, " So perish all the Queen Elizabeth's enemies !" The Earl of Kent alone replied, " Amen !" The attention of all other spectators was fixed on the melancholy scene before them : — zeal and flattery alike gave place to present pity and admiration." Her remains, which had been interred in the cathedral of Peterborough, were taken up by her son, James the First, and removed to a vault in Henry the Seventh's chapel, Westminster Abbey, where a monument was erected to her memory. To the left of the road, not far from Harbo- rough, lay Nasebi/ Field, where a bloody battle was fought, June 14th, 1645, between General Fairfax and Charles the First, in which the for- ces of the latter wcrcjjouted. Thisengagement proved fatal to the king's affairs, for a casket found in the baggage contained letters to the queen, which discovered the plans of operation laid BATTLE or NASEBY. 177 ilovvii, and through the precautions taken in con- sequence of that information by tlie parliament, all his schemes were defeated. IIuME, speaking of this battle gives the fol- lowing account of it : — " At Naseby was fought, with forces nearly equal, a decisive and v.'ell dis- puted action between the King and Parliament, The main body of the royalists was commanded by the King himself, the right wing by Prince Rupert, the left by Sir Marmaduke Langdale. Fairfax, seconded by Skippon, placed himself in the main body of the opposite army ; Cromwell in the right wing ; Ireton, Crcmwtirs son-in- law, in the left. The cluuge was begun with his usual celerity and usual success by Prince Rupert. Though Ireton made stout resistance, and even after he was run through the thigh with a pike, still maintained tiie combat till he was taken pri- soner, yet was tiiat whole army broken and pur- sued with })recipitate fury by Rupert ; he was even so inconsiderate as to lose time ia sum- moning and attacking the artillery of the enemj which had been left with a good guard of infan- try. The king led on his main body, and dis- played in this action all the conduct of a pru- dent general, and all the valour of a stout soldier. Fairfax and Skippon encountered him, and well supported that reputation which they had acqui- red. Skippon being dangerously wounded, was desired by Fairfax to leave the field, but declared that he would remain there as long as one man maintained his ground. The infantry of the 178 JUVENILE TOURIST. Parliament was broken, and pressed upon by the King, till Fairfax, with great presence of mind, brought up the reserve and renewed the combat. Meanwhile Cromwell having led on his troops to the attack of Langdale, overbore the force of the royalists, and by his prudence improved that advantage which he had gained by his valour. Having pursued the enemy about a quarter of a mile, and detached some troops to prevent their rallying, he turned back on the King's infantry and threw them into the utmost confusion. One regiment alone preserved its order unbroken, though twice desperately assailed by Fairfax ; and that general excited by so steady a resistance, ordered Doyley, the captain of his life-guard, to give them a third charge in front, while he him- self attacked them in the rear. The regiment ■was broken, Fairfax with his own hands, killed an ensign, and having seized the colours, gave them to a soldier to keep for him. The soldier afterwards boasting that he had won this trophy, vas reproved by Doyley, who had seen the ac- tion. Let him retain that honour, said Fairfax, I have to-day acquired enmigh Reside ! Prince Ru- pert, sensible too late of his error, left the fruit- lessattack on theenemy's artillery, and joined the King, whose infantry was now totally discom- fited. Charles exhorted this body of cavalry not to despair, and cried aloud to them. Otic charge more, and zee recover the day ! But the dis- advantages under which they laboured were too evident, and they could by no means be induced WICKLIFFE, THE REFORMER. ] 7<> to renew the combat. Charles was obliged to quit the field and leave the victory to the enemy. The slain, on the side of Parliament, exceeded those on the side of the King : they lost JOOO men, he not above 800. But Fairfax made 500 officers prisoners, and 4000 private men, took all the King's artillery and amunition, and totally dissipated his infantry, so that scarce any vic- tory could be more complete than that which be obtained." The Field of Nasehj retains no marks of the fsght at present, except a few holes, where it is said the men and horses were buried. In one of the rooms, in an inn near the spot, used to be a series of pictures, representing tlie manoeuvres of both armies on that perilous day ! They served to impress the mind of the traveller with the particulars of that memorable transaction. A little further up, just within the borders of Leicestershire, also, -stands Luttericoith, a small town with a large handsome church, of which John Wickliffe, the noted reformer, was rector, and here he peacefully died in spite of the machinations of popery. His pulpit still exists, whence he honestly inveighed against the errors of the times, and instructed his hearers in tlie rudiments of a purer Christianity. Mr. Thro-sby, in his Hidory of Leicestershire, gives a plate of what remains of this chair of verity, a relic which even protestants dare hold in veneration. Wick- liffe has been pronounced the moruiiigstar ci' the REFORMATION I 180 JUVENILE TOURIST. We reached Leicester bv noon, where I with regret parted with my female fellow-traveller, whose conversation and politeness contributed to enliven this part of my journey. Leicester is a town of antiquiu', and flourished even in the time of the Romans. Many Roman antiquities have been found here, particularly about a century ago, when coins and statues were dug up, after having laid in the bosom of the earth for ages ! One of their catacombs or burying-i)laces was discovered here, built of brick and rag-stones, with niches where the urns had been deposited; but in what age it was erected is not known, though probably soon after the}' settled in Britain; because when Christianity be- came the established religion of the empire, the practice of burning dead bodies was abolished. The remains of this antique repository have u singular appearance, and are now knovva by tht i)a.me o? Old Jercry JVaf/. Tliis town underwent revolutions in the different stages of our history. It was stormed and taken by Charles the First, the 31st of May, lfJ4o ; but he did not keep it long, for being defeated at the battle of Naseby, already described, General Fairfax retook it for the parliament. At present Leicester is in a flourishing state, by reason of the manufactory of stockings, which is carried on to a large extent. The houses are well built but with no regularity. Some mud wall's at the entrance into the town ought to be levelled with the ground. It bus six parishes. , 5 LEICESTER. 181 though only five churches. There are severai flissentiug places of worship, which arc well at- tended. The presbyterian meeting is large and coniinoilioiis : over this society presided for up- wards of fifty years the late venerable Hugh W n, with an unremitting zeal and activity. The general baptist place of worship also is neat and agreeable : it was erected a few years ago — the pulpit was designed by Mr. Ludlam, the mathematician, and is a transcript of St, Mary's at Oxford. Under the hospitable roof of a wor- thy friend I was gratified by the contemplation of several pieces of mechanism which he shewed me. They reminded me of a painting to be seen at Versailles, containing two hundred little figures in the act of enjoying the various pleasures of rural sports, which are separated from the back ground of the picture, and are set in motion by springs, admirably imitating all the movements natural to their different occupations ; — a fisher- man throws in his lijie and draws up a little fish ; a regular chase is displayed, and a nuptial pro- cession appears, in which some little figures, ri- dio^ in tiny cuU'ii^.^cs, nod to tlie spectators ! Such displays of humour and ingenuity camiot fail of commanding our admii-ation ! To preach a Chariti/ Sermon at Leicester was the purport of my journey, though 1 was called both to Quorndou, near Loughborough, and to Kottingham,onsimilar services. Lideed schools for the instruction of poor children are the only- sure means of regenerating our land. Troui such 182 JUVENILE TOURIST institutions valuable consequences must uccjue to the next generation. In the mean time, \\c must not expect that any thing short of such measures can counteract the pernicious elTccts of vice, v/hich threaten to deluge our country. In- deed, kings may issue their proclamations, law- givers may enact their statutes, judges may as- cend their tribunals, prisons may be crowded with culprits, lands may be sought out in the remotest parts of the earth for banishment, nay, gibbets may he erected in every part of our island, and bodies hung thereon till the air become pes- tilential ; yet, after all, the efforts of legislative skill will prove ineffectual, provided the religious education of the poor be neglected : Thei/ shall die without instruction, and in the greatness of their folly shall they go astray ! In the sacred writings we read of a tree whose virtues sweetened and purified the \vaters of Marah — the tree of knoK- ledge has a similar efficacy on the human heart, that capacious fountain out of which flows the issues of life ! So true are the words of Shake- s\s^av ;— -Ignorance Is the curse of God, Knowledge the wing with which we fly to heav'n ! Leicester has two goals near each other, the 'one for the town and the other for the county, a spacious market-place, a handsome infirinary, a beautiful assembly-room, and pleasant waiks in its vicinity. On my rciurn from one of these LEICESTER. 183 walks, in company with some agreeable ladies, I entered the town by a part of it called Nezmrk, w hich contains many excellent houses, and whose situation has charms to recommend it. It may he siilcd i/ie Il'at End of the Town. Four objects at Leicester attracted my atten- tion. First, a tomb-stone with a singular epitaph in the church of St. Martin. The substance of it is, that one Mr. John Heyrick, who died on the second of April, 1589, in the 76th year of his age, lived with his wife fifty-two years in one house ; and although they had often twenty in family, yet during the whole of that time he never buried one single person. The epitaph also in- forms us that his wife, who died in I61I, aged 97, had one hundred and forty-three persons of her own issue, including the third generation. Such lof/g-tivers, in conjunction with their fruit-* fulnessy remind me of tlie patriarch, whom the poet thus describes : At life'sf meridian point arriv'd he stood, An; the old woman's throat iVom ear to ear! The bloody act was performed by lier maid- servant, to whom she had been remarkably kind, and indeed at her death, which could net have heen far olT, according to the course of nature, she intended to bequeath licr a conoidcrabie legacy. Thus, by having a iiitle })atience, she would have been possessed, without guilt, of more than what came to her share by imbruing her hands in the blood of her mistress. TLiev were, liowever, all baulked in iheir expectations^ for the old lady had, but a little time before, put out her money to use, so that they found but a trifi'e in the house. Thty took, hcv/ever, wi:at money they could, and packing up plaie, linen, wearing appareh and valuable moveables, they put all into a cart, which they had got in wr.iting fcr the purpose, and drove away in the niidflle of ' the night, leaving all the house fast : v., ^pt a back-door. In the morning, the peofjlo oi the town were amazed that the inn was not cpca at the usual time. When noon arrived^ the inn still continued shut, as if it was the dead of the night, and many travellers »vere waiting about the door for entertainment for thcujsclves and 183 JUVENILS TOURIST. cattle. This raissd many suspicions, but at length several of the neighhours applied to the mayor of Leicester, and informed him of their conjectures. The mayor, with proper officer:^, repaired to the place, and finding the back door open, they entered, and discovered that the peo- ple's surmise was but too true, when tUey per- ceived the house stripped, and the hostess mur- dered. A hue and crv was raised, and the assas- sins were so hotly pursued, that they were all ap- prehended the same evening, and brought back to Leicester^ together with the property they luul stolen. They were lodged in the gaol till the assizes, when ihey were condemned, tlie three men to be hanged, and the woman to be burnt! Their sentence was executed, and they died un- lamented. The Fourth and last object is St. JSIarifs Abbey ^ of which a great part remains to the present day. It stands among pleasant meadows near the banks of the river, and was built by Robert, Earl of Leicester, in the reign of Henry the First. Many great men presided over it, and here that haughty statesman and proud ecclesiastic, Car- dinal IVohci/, ended his days under the displea- sure of his monarch, Henrys the Eighth. In his last agony he regretted that he had not served God with the fidelity he had used towards his roval master ! Our Inimitable Shakespear, lias drawn the fall of Wolsey with exquisite beauty : CAKDINAL WOLSEY. 189 -OCromwcl! ! Cfomwell ! Had I but serv'd my God willi half the zeal I serv'd my king, lie ivould not in mine age Have left me naked to mine enemies ! The history of this ina,u is ot too sin2,utara nn- fure not to demand some attention. Cardinal WoLSEY was born at Ipswich, 1471- Comiaoa tradition says he was the son ofa batcher, though our best historians simply assure as that he was de- scended of poor but honest parents. His first pre- ferment was to the rectory of Lymington, where his conduct was so bad, that it is said. Sir Amias Paidet, a justice of ihti peact^ set \\\m in tiic stocks for boing drunk and raising a nisUirbanee lit a fair in the neighbourhood ! But the knight had reason to repcut of the measure, for Wolacy being made chancellor, repaid him by five or six years imprisonment. By the use of flattering arts this ecclesinstic passed through a variety of preferments. In March, 1514, he was made bishop of Liacoln.^November following, arch- bishoj) of York. — September, 151.3, cardinal of St. Cicely, by the interest of the king of En- gland. Tlie king likewise bestowed upon him the rich abbey of St. Alban's, and the bishopric of Durham, and afterwards that of Winchester ; and with these he held in farm the bishoprics of Bath, Worcester, and Hereiord, enjoyed by foreign incumbents. From all these preferments, tugc iher with presents and pensions from foreign princes, his anntial income exceeded the revenues IQO JUVENILE TOURIST. of thftcrowii! Ill this capacity also he kept eight hundred servants, among whom were nine or ten lords, fifteen knights, and forty esquires ! IVohct/ aspired to the Popedom, hut without succtJis* AI>out this time, however, such isihc uncertainty of all human greatness, he lost all favour at Court. In this reverse of fortune ho was obliged to rc- retire to his archbishopric at York, where, having j-emained for u time, he was arrested on the charge of High Treason. On the third day after his having left York, in his progress towards London, he reached Ldrester Abbey. Here the abbot and the whole convent came out to meet him with reverence, but the Cardinal only faid, " Father Ahhot, I am come to lay my bones amoriff you r His words were verified, for, expi- ring four days after, November 29, 1530, he was huried in one of the abbey chapels. He lay some time, however, in an oaken coffin, with his face uncovered, for j>ublie inspection. As to his person, W'^olsey was tall and comely, graceful in liis air and manners, but having a defect in one of liis eyes, he, with a view to hide the blemish, was always painted in profile. In prosperity Wolsey was proud, arrogant, and haughty ; in advcrsliv, mean, abject, and cowardly. His vices were oi" that cast which ;lis.::race the character of a jMclate. At tlu,* same time his virtues were of the public kind, for he promoted and ..ncouraged literature. He pat'ouizcd the [)orne and usefid arts,, and, in general, \sas a friend to the poor. LEICESTER ABBEY. 191 ItidcGtl he was a irreat but not a c:ood man. In his political character he displayed abilities, and it is acknowledged that England was rendered formidable to all the powers of Europe during his administration*. The RUINS of this abbey, in the vicinity of Leicester, have a fine a})pearance at a distance, and are in themselves impressive. They pro- claim its former magnificence ; they remind us of the pomp and grandeur of its possessors, now gone down to the dust ; they shew us the decay to which sublunary objects are destined, in spite of ever}'- effort to rescue tliem from the all-de- vouring gulph of oblivion : — 'Tis new the raven's bleak aboclR, 'lis nou' tlie apartment ofllie toad, And there the fox securely feeds, And there the poisonous adder breeds, ConceaHd in ruins, moss, and weeds ; While ever and anon there falls Huge heaps of hoary moulder'd walls ; Yet time has been that lifts the low. And level lays the lofty brow. Has seen this broken pile complete. Big with the -vanity of state ! But transient is the smile of fate — A little rule, a little sway, A sun-beam in a winter's day, Isa!/the PROUD and mighty have Between the cradle and the grave ! * See the British Plutarch, in eight pocket volumes, drawn up by the lutQ Dr. J osqih Towers — it is a. tieasure of Biography. 19^ JUVENILL TOURIST. • Such, my young friend, is my sketch of Lei- cester, wliich I trust you will pursue, as well as the former part of the letter, Avith that candour to which the director of your youthful studic* is entitled. I am, dear Sir, Your's &c. 193 LETTER III. MOUNT sorrel; QUORN ; LOUGHBOROUGri ; NOTTINrGtr.AM ; EXCURSION INTO derrvsiiire; alfreton ; story of a ro- wan LADY ; MATLOCK DALE ; COTTON MILL ; SIR RICHARW ARKWRIGHT : MATLOCK ; ITS SPRINGS ; ITS ROMAIfTlC SI- TUATION ; CUMBERLAND CAVERN ; rilATSWORTH HOUSE ; ITS GARDENS AND WATER-WORKS ; BAKEWELL ; HADDON HALL J KING OF THE PEAK ; VERNON FAMILr. MY DEAR YOUNG FRIEND, r ROM the town of Leicester 1 passed on to Loughborough, through Mount Son-eland Quorn, two places which recommend themselves by their situation. Mount Sorrel \s a small town, standing at the foot of a I) ill, and Quorn is a populous village, with some agreeable spots in its vicinity. Two gentlemen, who live in the village, accompanied ine to the top of a neigh- boiiring eminence, vvhence w^e enjoyed a pros- pect of the adjacent country. Loughborough is situated on the banks of the river Soar, over which it has a stone bridge. It stands on the borders of Charwood Forest, being surrounded by meadows and well cultivated fields. In i-lie time of the Faxons it was a royal town, and its church is a Gothic structure of antiquity. s 394 JUVENILE TOURIST. On the road to Nottingham I passed through a village, in which 1 spied a school, with this motto over the door : — " Disce, rel DisceJc !" Learn or go about your business. This short sentence conveys a lesson to the pupil, which it is hoped will be duly regarded. A mo- derate but steady application is the soul of ira- pro\ement. From Loughborough to Nottingham the dis- tance is about fourteen miles, and 1 reached this place in the evening. A gentleman, on my ar- rival, took me to his country house at Arnold, a village four miles beyond the town, so that my account of Nottingham must be deferred till my return thither at the close of the week. The next morning, in company with an obliging young gentleman, 1 set out on horseback lor Derbyshire. A sketch of this part of my tour will be expected, and you shall not be disap- pointed. As we travelled over a considerable extent of ground, the excursion will form no im- proper subject for this and the succeeding letter ; its variety will, I trust, serve for your amuse- ment. On Tuesday mor.iing, between six and seven o'clock, wc set off, well mounted, for Alfreton, a small t()wn,just within the borders of Derbyshire, wl)ere, after a ride of fifteen miles, we break- fasted. Nothing here attracted our attention, excepting that from the window of the inn we MATERNAL AFFECTION. 195 were diverted by seeing several females nursing their children with cheerfulness and simplicity. Little children are objects at all times interesting to a feeling heart : to a good parent of either sex they must prove endearing ; for powerful are the ties of parental affection ! We are told in the Koman history, that Cornelia, the il- lustrious mother of the Gracchi, after the death of her husband, who left her toe/w children, ap- plied herself to the care of her family wdth a wisdom and prudence that acquired her univer- sal esteem. A Campanian lady, who was rich and fond of pomp and shew, after having displayed, in a visit she made to her, her dia- monds, pearls, and richest jewels, desired Cor- nelia t€riet her see her jewels also. Cornelia turned the conversation to another subject, to wait the retdirn of her sons, who were gone to school. When they returned, and entered tlieir mother's apartment, she said to the Campanian lady, pointing to them — These are my jewels, and the only ornaments I admire! "^Such ornaments, while they impart a refined gratification to pa- rental affection, are the cement of society. Immediately after breakfast we pushed on for Matlock, which being about another fifteen miles, we reached to dinner. The entrance into Mat- lock Dale, by Cromford, has a romantic appear- ance. The road runs by the side of the river Derwent, in some places so hemmed in by the rocks as barely to allow room ?or the passing traveller. Here stands a curious mill for spin- ig6 JUVENILE TOURIST. ning cotton, invented by Sir Richard Arkwrigbt^. whose spacious house is erected near it, on an eminence. It boasts a charming situation. A small church of modern erection rears its head in the valley beneath it, and every thing aroimd has the air of a new creation. The fol- lowing short sketch of Sir Richard Arkwright, taken from the new edition of the Biographical Dictionary, may not be unacceptable to you. " He was a man, who in one of the lowest stations of life (being literally a penny barber, at Wirkvvorth, in Derbyshire) by uncommon genius and persevering industry, invented and perfected a system of machinery for spinning cotton that had been in vain attempted by many of the first mechanics of the last and present centuries, and which, by giving perpetual employment to many thousand families, increased the populalion, and was productive of a great coiriniercial advantage to bis country. . The macliineis called ^spinning jenny. Sir Richard died August Sd, 1792, leav- ing property to the amount of near half a mil- lion sterling !" It is impossible, my young friend, to contem- plate such improvements without admiration. It shows that the faculties of man, may, by ex- ercise, be appropriated to wonderful purposes. By the magic power of art an astonishing change has been here introduced — well may we exclaim, in the language of an ingenious writer- ** O art, thou distinguishing attribute and honour of liu- Hiaa kii\d 1 who art not only able to imitate na- MATLOCK. 19? ture in her graces, but even to adorn her with graces of thine own ! Possessed of thee, the mean- est genius grows deserving, and has a just de- mand for a portion of our esteem; devoid of thee, the brightest of our kind lie lost and useless, and are but poorly distinguished from the most des- picable and base ! When v/e inhabited forests in common with brutes, nor otherwise known from them than by the figure of our species, thou taughtest us to assert the sovereignty of our na- ture, and to assume thai empire for which provi- dence intended us ! Thousands of utilities owe their birth to thee ! Thousands of elegancies, pleasures, and joys, without which life itself would be but an insipid possession !" Matlock is a village celebrated for its warm springs, which have proved efficacious in the re- moval of scorbutic disorders. It is situated close to the river Derwenl, and consists of a range of elegant houses, built in an uniform manner, with stables and out-houses. The baths are arched over, adjoining to which are convenient rooms, with apartments for servants. The assembly room is on the right hand, and at the topis a music-room, to which you ascend by a grand staircase. There is a fine terrace before the house, and near it a green where the gentle men divert themselves in the evenings. From this place there is a rocky shelf descending to the river, which is rapid, and runs with such u mur- muring noise, as iills the mind with {)leasing. emotions :— s 3 198 JUVENILE TOURIST, " The interruptions from the stones that strew Its shallow bed, or the thick dancing reeds. Stay not its course, for still with earnest speed And undiverted, fast it rolls along, Never to know tranquillity, till mix'd With the great mass of waters '." The environs of Matlock batli are equal in natural beauty lo any places in the kingdom. They form a winding vale of about three miles, through whicli the Derwent runs in a course ex- tremely various ; in some places the breadth is considerable and the stream smooth ; in others it breaks upon the rocks, and falling over the fragments forms slight cascades ! The boundaries of the vale are cultivated, hills on one side, and bold rocks with pendant woods on the other ! Taking the winding path up the hill leads you to the range of tield& at the top, bounded by a pre- cipice, along which is a walk, the finest natural terrace in the world. We dined at the hotel at an ordinary, for which the charge was reasonable. The company was small, and except ourselves, entirely ladies. Indeed the season was but just begun, therefore we siiw not Matlock in its glory. There were, how- ever, several gentlemen's carriages, and a few be- longing to the nobility. My friend and 1 having sauntered about dur- ing the afternoon, we in the evening visited a cave, which is a natural curiosity. The propri- etor, who shewed it us, seemed a plain honest man, and had taken pains of late years to render CURIOSITIES OF MATLOCK. 190 the passage into it commodious and easy. So pleased were we with this subterranean recess, that on my return to the inn I called for a sheet of paper, and wrote the following account of" it. Cumberland Cavern is situated on the brow of a steep hill, and its mouth is closed with a white- washed wooden door, which being oj)ened, the man took his taper out of his lantern, with which he lighted tliree candles to guide our steps through the bowels of the earth ! Whilst this ce- remony was performing we stood at the entrance, and surveyed with pleasure the scenery which surrounded us. We were taking, as it were, a farewell of day, when our leader informed us that the lights were ready, and having taken them into our hands, we followed him in slow procession. The first thirty yards of the way were partly artificial, he having himself piled up stones at each side, that the entrance into the ca- vern might be gained with facility. We now descended into this abode by steps, fifty-four in number, which seemed as if wc were going down towards the centre of the earth ! At the bottom of this descent the cave opened upon us, iii gran- deur. The profoundest silence reigned in every corner of the recess. Huge masses of stone were piled on each other with a tremendous kind of carelessness, produced by some violent con- cussion, though at a period unknown to any hu- man creature. From this place we ascended, as it were, the side of a steep hill, and at the top came to a long regular passage of some extent. 200 JUVENILE TOURIST. The roorhad all the regularity of" a finished ceil- ing, and was bespan^^led by spars of every des- cription. From above, from below, and from the respective sides, the rays of our candle were re- flected in a thousand directions ! Our path had so brilliant a complection, that my eyes were for some time fixed upon it, though I trust not with the same temper of mind with which Milton has made one of the fallen angels contemplate the pavement of heaven : — Mammon, the least erected spirit, that fell. From heav'n, for e'en in heav'n Iiis looks and thoughts- Were always doxunward bent, aduiiring luore The riches of heav'u's pavement, trodd' ri gold. Than anglit divine or holj, else enjoy'd In the vision beatific ? When I withdrew my attt^ncion from this ob- ject, 1 was shewn little cavities on every hand, which contained spars in the innumerable forms of crystalization. The wantonness of nature in these her operations is wonderful, and oftentimes exceeds our conceptions. The part of the ca- vern that is ornamented by the brilliancy of the spars and ores, we were assured delighted the ladies, who, notwithstanding their characteristic timidity, have ventured into this dark abode for tlie giatificalion of their curiosiiy ! Proceeding onwards a few yards we came to large flat stones, which lay on one another, not altogether unlike flitches of bacon. How ihey came there, and for what reason tliey could be thus laid together baffled our comprehension. In the next com- CURIOSITIES OF MATLOCK. 201 paitment we observed rocks heaped on rocks, in terrible array, and on descending from this part, these rocks assume a threatening aspect, seeming as if they would slide dozen and crush you to atoms ! Another scene surprises you, and is gra- tifying to the senses. An apartment is decorated with what is here called the suozc fossil. This species of stone is, both from its figure and co- lour, a resemblance of snow. Its delicacy can- not fail to please. One portion of this apartment was so stained by this fossil, that it possessed pe- cuhar charms. It had the appearance of a ca- vity, inlo which the snow had been drifted by the winter storm! This apparent imitation of nature is cert;iinly a curiosity. Ts^ear the ex- tremity of the cavern was shewn a part of it, which might, on account of its appearance, be denomi- nated the piscatory hall! Here are seen fishes petrified and fixed in tlie strata which form the recess. What kind of fish they were could not be ascertained, but they were discernible. One of the fishes had its hiii-k jutting out of the side of the earth, as if petrified in the act of swim- ming ! What a proof that the earth was once in a state of fluidity ! We might have seen ano- ther branch of the cavern, where was to be found a well of consij.erable depth ; but waving further research, we returned the way we came. After many an ascent and descent, together with numerom meanderings, we reached the entrance, and hailed the fight of day with renovated satis- faction ! 202 JUVENILE TOURIST. Next morning, after having secured a good breakfast, we got on horseback and rode on to Chatsworth, the far-famed seat of the Duke of Devonshire, though we understood that his grace seldom visits this part of the country. The first part of the ride through the vale towards the vil- lage of Matlock is impressive. On the right is a rock called High Torr, whose height is said to be one hundred and forty yards. About halfway up it is covered with brushwood, but the upper part is bare and inaccessible. The river runs close at the foot, and by the intervention of a ledge of rocks, flows down them with rapidity. The village is romantic ; indeed every part of this spot is marked by a wild and variegated scenery. Chatsworth house was built in the reigfl of Wil- liam the Third, and has been ranked among the wonders of the Peak. The structure, which is quadrangular, is large and roomy ; lying in a bottom amidst plantations, and is backed by steril hills. You approach it by an elegant stone bridge over tlie Derwent, and on the left, hid among the trees, are the remains of an old square tower, moa;cd round, called Queen Mary's Gar- den, ox Bower ; for on this spot the unfortunate Queen oi" bcots passed many years of her long captivity. rhe description of Chatsworth, by Cotton, thougli drawn so long ago, has the merit of fidelity : — CHATSWORTH. £03 Ou Derwent's shore stands a stupendous pile. Like the proud regent of the British isle ; This palace, with large prospects circled round, Stands in the middle ofa falling ground ; At a blaclc mountain's foot, whose craggy brow Secures from eastern tempests all below ; Under whose shelter trees and flowers grow. With early blossoms spite of frost and snow I Having met with a countryman to hold our horses, we alighted, and were conducted into the mansion. We were first shewn the hall, a superb place, decorated with the history of Ju- lius Caesar, that accomplished destroyer of the human race ! The chapel was remarkable for its profusion of embellishments. The miracles of our Saviour were dehneated by the hand ofa first rate artist. The blessings of recovery were depicted in the countenances of the recipients ; and the features formed an animated comment on the benevolence to which they were indebted for their restoration. Most of the apartments were richly furnished, and several of the paintings were valuable for their antiquity. In one room we were shewn the bed in which George the Second^ breathed his last ; four posts were of plain oak, but the furniture was costly, though the worse for age ; in the contemplation of this object, in- teresting ideas rushed upon the mind : — "The boast of heraldry, the pomp of pow'r. And all that beauty, all that wealth e'er gave ; Alike wait the inevitable hour. The paths of glory lead but to the grave !" GBA¥ 20-i JLVENlLIi TOURIST. In another room \vc saw the bed in which Mary Queen of Scots lay for years, during her confine- ment in this mansion. It was of red dauiask, considerably mouldered, has an antique appear- ance, and cannot be kept much longer in tolera- ble preservation. Such, however, is the associ- ation of our ideas, thatobjects of this kind, though decayed, awaken our sensibility. One of the last things we were shewn v/as her grace'^ cabinet of fossils, which is kept in order, and contains specimens of exquisite variety. We quitted the house and entered the gardens, where we were gratified by the water-works. They were introduced into England, and were made by the person who was the constructor of those celebrated ones at Versailles. Walking up an ascent, we observed at the top of the emi- nence a small temple, of a circular form, from which, down almost to the place where we stood, was a flight of steps. In the twinkling of an eye, from the upper part of this little building, streams of water issued and came tumbling along these steps with precipitation ; by the time they almost reach your feet, and you begin to be ap- prehensive of danger, the water steals into a cavity of the earth and is seen no more! We were then conducted to an open space in a wood, and in a moment, trees, disposed in a circular form. Hung forth water from their leaves and branches, to such a degree, tliat it had all the appearance of a shower; leaden pipes, inserted in the several parts of the trees, produced this 4 BAKEWELL. 205 pbaenomenon. Lastly, we were led to the fine sheet of water before the house, the surface of which was decorated with nymphs and sea mon- sters. From the mouth of one of these aquatic gentry issued forth in a perpendicular direction, and to an amazing height, such a stream of water, that its noise alone made a tremendous impres- sion on the mind ! It reminded me of the water- spout at sea, so terrible to sailors — often tUe presage of irremediable destruction ! We now left Chatswortb, crossed the hill, and reached Bakewell to dinner. Steep was the des- cent into this little town ; but the prospect around was wild and variegated. A hind of rag- ged downs spread themselves over the horizoHj, and appeared to touch the sky: — » Nature wears here Her boldest countenance. The tumid earth Seems as of ^^ore it had the phrenzj fit Of ocean caught, and its unlifted «ward Performed a billowy dance, to whose vast wave The proudest surges of the bellowing deep Are little, as to his profoundest swell The shallow rippling of the wrinWed pool ! Bakercell is a place of antiquity, encircled witk hills, and contains a few decent houses. The church is a respectable building, and has some tombs of the Verrions. One of these monu- ments is beautiful, being divided into several niches, each containing a figure, and underneath a passage of scripture, adapted to their age and 206 JUVENILE TOURIST. condition ! The following inscription, on a plain tomb, pleased me by its simplicity : — WILLIAM SAVILLE, ESQ. Steward to the Eaul of Rutland, 1653. No epitaph nede make the just man famed. The GOOD are praysed when tliey'r only nam'd ! We visited Mr. White Watson, (Fellow of the Liinnccan Society) the mineralogist, and saw his cabinet of fossils, which are worth inspection. Happening, indeed, to have my Sketch of the De- nominations of the Christian World in his library, rind of which he was pleased to think favourably, we soon became acquainted, and he treated us with politeness and attention. Near Bakewell is lladdon IJall, the ancient seat of the Ternons— one of whom. Sir George Vernon, who lived in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, was so celebrated for his hospitable disposition, that he was usually called king of the peak ! The name of Vernon holds a distinguished rank in the annals of our country. The siege of Carthagena was a memorable event. Thomson, in describing the pestilence which raged among the British troops on that occasion, represents the admiral in an impressive point of view ! He is not only said to have heard the groans of the sick that echoed from ship to ship, but that he stood and listened at midnight to the dashing of tlie waters occasioned by the throwing of the dead bodies into the sea : — EFFECTS OF PESTILENCE. " Heard nightly plung'd into llie sullen waves The frequent corse !" 207 ^ How many pathetic images are here brought together — all marked by aa overpowering »o- leipnity. I remain, dear Sir, Your's, &f. ^^!^^ T '1 208 JUVENILE TOURIST. LETTER ll\ BrxTOv; ITS antiquitt ; its crescent; its baths; its STEnil. SITUATION ; THE LATE DR. GARNI.TJ POOI.e's hole; cotton's ntscRirTiON of it; castleton ; de- vil's cavr; Ferguson's account of it; reflections ON iHE peak; beresford hall; cotton avd Walton's tlTTLE FISHING HOUSE ; A6HB0URNS ; TEAUTIFUL TOMB ; DOVE-DALE , ROUSSEAU ; SEAT OF LORD SCAR8I>AM' J DtRBT J ns siLs mill; visit to dr. oakwin ; KBTUnif irt kot- TI.NCriAM. DHAli SIU, VVe sat off for Buxton, and after a dreary ridt reached the end of our journey, when the shades ofevening were closing around us. The hills over which we traversed, being of a chalky complex- ion \vc saw the zc'hite road winding along before lis, for miles in an almost endless succession. It l\ad, indeed, from its curvature, some resem- blance to Hogarth's Line of Beauty, though I confess its charms made no impression on my imagination. Buxton is distant one hundred and sixty miles from London. It lies in a bottom, and its bath, which has been celebrated since the aira of the Romans, supports, even to die present time, its reputation. The town itself has nothing to re- commend it. But you descend into a valley at BUXTON'. 209 once, vrliere you find a stately crescent, built by the Duke ot Devons'iire for the accommodation of the company. Beneath it are piazzas, vvheie, in unfavourable weather, the visitants may pace backwards and forwards in safety. Tiie baths, which are nearly behind this row of buildings, are deemed in the cases of gout and rheumatism of efficacy. The water is sulphureous and sa- line, yet not unpalatable ; it neither tinges silver, nor yet is it purgative. If drank, it creates an appetite, and is prescribed in scorbutic cases and consumptions. St. Anne's Well^ opposite the new. crescent, furnishes the water which is drank, and is secured by an alcove, with iron railings. The place is only a township of Bakev/ell, and therefore prayers are read in the hall by a curate, for which a subscription is raised. The situation of Buxton is the reverse of Matlock : here we seek in vain for charmino- scenery ; the hills, by which we are surrounded, ■vie with each other in sterility ! in the evening we supped at the ordinary, in company with about twenty persons, among whom was the late intelligent Dr. Garnet, then lecturer of the New Royal Institution. Sitting opposite me we con- versed freely on a variety of subjects. Hig lour through the Highlands, and his otlier publica- tions, do credit to his talents and industry. The ncYt morning we rose early, and visited PoGles Hole, about half a mile trom Buxton, on the side of a hill. At its entrance stood a nmuber of old women, ugly in the extreme, who, on our T 3 210 JUVENILE TOURIST. Approach, lighted their lanthorns, and prepared for a subterraneous exhibition. Had they their broomsticks and their cauldrons, they would not have been unlike Shakespeare's witches ; and this fanciful idea gained strength from the bar- barous sounds they uttered, the gloomy haziness of the morning, and the yawning mouth of the cavern. However we determined to explore this lecess, and, accordingly, having some of these beauties at the heaa and in the rear, we entered ! Every part of this wonderful place is crowded with petrifactions. Having taken its name from one Poole, a robber, noted for his depredations, who here secreted himself, our guides shewed certain romantic figures, which they say were used by him for various purposes. His kitchen, parlour, stable, bed, and even closet, are pointed out with a boasted accuracy. Cotton, wlio in iGSl, described the Wonders of the Peak in Hu- dibrastic verse, notices the circumstance in the following curious manner : — In this infernal mansion you must see. Where Muster Poelc and his bold yeomanry Took up their dark apartment ; lb- they here Do shew liis hall, parlour, and ijed-chamber. With drawing-room and closet, and with thcs« Hit kitclien and Iiis otiicr otlices ; And all contriv'd to justify a fable, "Which no man will believe but the silly rabble J Tlic other petrifactions, which have assumed imaginary configurations, aic the sea turtle — iripe—coDstant drop— -Hitch of bacon — sheep— pool's hole. 211 lion — laundress' table, — the bee-hive — the horse —organ pipes, and Mary queen of Scots' })illar. These I took down with my pencil on the spot, and therefore you may depend on the enumera- tion. Beyond the pillar the opening of the rock terminates in a point, in which a candle being placed, it has the brilliancy of a star, in the fir- mament ! In our return we came out under the passage by which we were led into the cavern. The water, used by persons living just by, is fetched out of this place. Whilst we were in- specting the hole, several were occupied in this employment; we looked down upon them from the side of a rock, whither we had clambered ; the dimness of their light gave them the ap- pearance of apparitions, whilst their singing, mingled with noises arising from their tin jugs swinging against the crags, made a fear- ful reverberation ! Upon gaining the entrance of the cave, these aged beauties crowded round with basons of water that we might wash our hands ; for we were bedaubed with the slime of this dungeon. It is about half a mile under the earth, and we were glad once more to emerge into day-light and liberty*. On our return to breakfast our appetites were keen, and we relished our fare and our com- pany. It was our wish to reach Castleton, dis- tant fourteen miles, where wc should have seen * Thecaveof Trophonius was so awful that whoever visited t never afterwards smiled. 213 JUVENILE TOURIST. the Devil's O/rc, which is reckoned the capital of the Peak's wonders ; but our time would not permit ; and indeed there is such an unpleasant- ness in surveying these dreary places, that 1 ea- sily gave up this gratificaiion. That you, however, my young fiiend, may have it in your power to form some idea of it, T will transcribe a description of it, by the in- genious James Ferguson, who made himself so celebrated by his study of astronomy. "devil's cave, or peak's hole. "The entrance (says that gentleman) into thi? complicated cavern, is through an almost re- gular arch twelve yards high, formed by nature, at the bottom of a rock, whose height is eighty- seven yards. Immediately within this arch is a cavern of the same height, forty yards wide, and above one hundred in length. The roof of this place is flattish, all of solid rock, and looks dreadful over head, because it hais nothing but the natural side-walls to support it. A pack- thread nrinuiactory is therein carried on by poor people, by the light tliat comes through the arch. Towards the further end from the en- trance, the roof comes down with a gradual slope to about two feet from the surface of the water, fourteen yards over, the rock in that place forming a kind of arch, under which ! was pushed by my guide across the water in a long oval tub, as I lay on my back in straw with a candle in my hand, and was, for the greatest part devil's cave. sis of the way on the river, so near the arched roof, that it touched my hat if I raised my head but two inches from the straw on which I lay on the tub, (called the boat,^ which I believed was not above a foot in depth. When landed on the further side of this water, and helped out of the boat by my guide, I was conducted through a low place into a cavern seventy yards wide and forty yards high, in the top of which are several open- ings upwards, so high that I could not see to their tops. On one side of this place I saw se- veral young lads with candles in their hands climbing up a very rough ascent, and they disap- peared when about half way up. I asked my guide who they were and he told me they were the singers, and that I should soon see them again, for they were going through an opening that led into the next cavern. At eighty-seven yards from the first water I came to a second, nine yards broad, over which my guide carried me on his back. I then went under three natural arches at some distance from one another, and all of them pretty regular ; then entered a third cavern, called Roger's Rain-house, because there is a continual dropping at one side of it like mo- derate rain ! I no sooner entered that cavern than I was agreeably surprised by a melodious singing which seemed to echo from all sides, and on looking back I saw the above-mentioned lads in alarge round opening, called the chancel, nineteen yards above the bottom where I stood* 214 JUVENILE TOURIST. They sang for what the visitors pleased to give them as they return. "At the top of a steep rugged stony ascent, on one side of this cavern, I saw a small ir- regular hole, and asked my guide, whether there was another cavern beyond it? He told nie there was — but that very few people ventured to go through into it on account of the frightful appearance at the top of the hole, where the stones seemed to be almost loose and ready ta fall and close up the passage. 1 told him that if he would venture through I would follow him — so 1 did, creeping flat, the place being ra- ther too low to go on all-fours. We then got into along, narrow, irregular, and very high ca- vern, which has surprising openings of various shapes, at top, loo high to see how far they reach ! We returned through the hole to Roger's Rain-house again, and from thence went down fifty yards lower on wet sand, wherein steps are made for convenience. At the bottom we en- tered into a cavern called the Devil's Cellar, in which mv 2;uide tcld me, there had been many bowls of good rum punch made and drank, the water having been heated b\' a fire occasionally made there for that purpose. In the roof of this cellar is a large opening, through v.hich the smoke of the fire ascends, and has been seen by the people above ground to go out at the top of the rock. But this opening is so crooked aiul irregular, that no stone let down devil's cave. 215 into it, from the top, was ever known to fall quite through into the cavern. *' From this place I was conducted a good way onward, under a roof too low to let me walk up- right, and then entered a cavern, called the Belly because the top of it is shaped somewhat like to the side of a bell. From thence I was conducted through a very low place into a higher, in the bottom of which runs a third water, and the roof of that place slopes gradually downward, till it comes within five inches of the surface of the water running under it. My guide then told me, that I was just two hundred and seven yard* below the surface of the ground, and seven hundred and fifty yards from the first entrance into the rock, and there was no going any farther. " Throughout the whole, I found the air very agreeable, and wa,rm enough to bring on a mo- derate perspiration, although in less than a fort- night before, all the caverns beyond the first river (where I was ferried under the low arch) had been filled to a considerable height [with water during a flood occasioned by long and conti- ' rued rains." Such are the wonders of this part of the king- dom, and the inspection of them affords high sa- tisfaction. In penetrating, however, into these recesses of the earth, it is impossible wholly to divest the mind of unpleasant sensations. The idea of the ground falling in upon us, will ob- trude itself at times in spite of our philosophy. 2J6 juvenile tourist. To be instantaneously crushed to death, or to be condemned to the horrors of a lingering and ago- nizing dissolution by being entombed alive, are evils not to be contemplated even in apprehen- sion, with composure and resignation. The pos- sibility of such a dreadful accident crosses the brain with an inconceivable rapidity. But the recollection of the iinprohahility of the event re- stores the mind to its accustomed serenity. The cave of Virgil, into which he introduces JEneas by the aid of the Sybil, occurred to my mind while exploring these awful excavations in the centre of our island. Indeed the descrip- tion of the Mantuan bard powerfully struck me: — Speluncaalta fnit, vastoquc immanishiatu, Scrupea tuta lacu nigre nemorumque tcnebris ! From Bnxt07i we, after breakfast, set out on our return, and directed our route towards Derby, We rode to Newhaven, and dined ; it is only a single inn, about half way to Ashbourne. We were well entertained ; and the good landlady behaved with uncommon civility. Of her I en- quired about Beresford Hall, formerly the seat of Charles Cotton, Esq. the friend of honest Isaac Walton, (whom 1 have already mentioned in my account of Winchester) the father of anglers, and one of the best men of the age in which he lived. She informed me that it lay within three miles of tiie house ; and away we rode to gratifj an innocent curiosity. 9 WALTON'S FISHING-HOUSE. 217 We soon reached the spot, over which ray imagination had often strayed with pleasure. The hall itself, now inhabited by a maiden lady, looks old and ruinous ; and the adjoining garden ex- hibits a scene of desolation. Below the eminence on which it stands, through a sweet vale, runs the liver Dove, famous for trout-fishing. Its gentle meanders heighten the beauty of the surrounding scenery ; and 1 for some time gazed on it» charms in silent admiration. Well might Cotton, living on the spot, ex-: claim V O my beloved n^mph — fair Dove ! Princess of rivers ! how I love Upon thy flow'ry banks to lie And view thy silver stream. When gilded by a summer's beam ! And in all that wanton fry Playing at liberty : And with my angle upon them The all of treachery I ever learnt industriously to try ! Hither it was, that the venerable Isaac Wal- ton frequently came upwards of owe hundred miles ^ that during the summer months he might, with his friend Cotton, enjoy the sport of angling! In return for these visits, Mr. Cotton built a small fishing-house, in a kind of peninsula, on the banks of the Dove, whose walls and covering only remain, and these I beheld with veneration. Sir John Hawkins, in his edition of Walton's u •21S JUVENILE TOURIST Compete Angler, gives two views of this curious jhliing-honse, and tells you, that he, several years ago, employed a person to visit it, and send hiin a description of it. From that account I ex- tract the following paragraph, that you may ft)rm some idea of its former condition: " It is of stone, and the room in the inside a cube of about fifteen feet; it is also paved with black and white marble. In the middle is a square black marble table, supported by two stone feet. The room is wainscotted with cm'ious moulciings that divide the pannels up to the ceiling; in the larger pannels are represented in painting, some of the most pleasant of the adja- cent scenes, with persons fishing ; and in the smaller, the various sorts of tackle and imple- ments used in angling. In the further corner on the left is a fire-place, witli a chimney; and on the ri"ht a lar?e beaufet with foldinsj-doors v.hereon are the portraits of Mr. Cotton and a boy s rvant, and Walton, in the dress of the times. Underneath is a cupboard, on the door of which are the figures of a trout, and also of a gray- ling, well pourtrayed !" But, my young friend, you will inquire after its present condition. I will inform you. Being erected in the year 1674, it has stood above a century, and having been taken little care of for som.e years past, it has fallen into decay. Here was, however, to be seen the cypher over the door, containing the initials of the names both of Cotton and Walton, interwoven in each other, Walton's fishing-housc. CI9 and the inscription above it sasi^um piscato_ Riijus, (saacd to Jishermen,) hn\^ iiWed with moss, was ahiiost obUterated. I ciambercd in through the ^vi^dow with difficulty ; but of the interior decorulions, alas! no traces were to be found. Looking round nie with a melancholy pleasure, I mused on the interesting conversations which had taken p'ace again and again within the walls of this forsaken niajision. Sad memorial of friend- ship! How evanescent are terrestrial enjoyments ! The person who went with us hither from the neighbouring village, told us that the Httle buUdin'g was, in his remembrance, enriched with the above rural decorations; and that persons came even from Scotland to gratify their curiosity in the inspection of it. Anew engraving of it may be seen in a very beautiful edition of Wattous Jtngler, just published. It was in this little deserted temple of frierid- sliip, took place that pleasing dialogue found in the Contemplative Angler, respecting the forma- tion of an artificial ff I/, which Gay has thus des- cribed with a moral annexed to it : — To the little animal provide All the gay hues jthat wait on female pride ; Let nature guide thee, sometimes goJdeu wire The shining bellies of tliefly require ; The peacock's plumes thy tackle must not fail. Nor the dear purchase of the sable's tail ; Each gaudy bird some slender tribute brings, And lends the growing insect proper wings • Silks of all Colours must their aid impart. And ev'ry fur promote the lisher's art : 220 JUVENILE TOURIST. So the gay ladyj 'ivith expensive care, - Borrows tlie pride of land, of sea, of air ; Furs, pearls, and plumes, the glittering thing display* Dazzles our eyes, and easy hearts betrays ! We now returned to our inn to dinner, where a trout and n g'^^^ifig, niade a part of the re{jast; and we soon bid adieu to our good landlac.y. We rode on to Ashbourne, and remained their during t\ e night. Jshbounie is a town of some size, and con- tains many genteel families. The chureh is the only object worthy of attention. Here we found the beautiful monument raised by Sir Brooke Boothby to the memory of his only daughter, a child of six years of age. It has inscriptions upon it in English, Latin, French, and Italian. The lines under the oedestal are : — TO PENELOPE, Only child of Sir Brooke and Dame Susannah Boothby, Born April 11, 1785, died !\Iaich 13, 1791. She was, in form and intellect, most exquisite; The nnfortunale Parents ventured their all on this frail bark, and the wreck was total. I was not in safety ; neither had I rest, and the trouble cnnie. A tourist luis so happily delineated this monu- ment, that I cannot help transcribing his words : •— " Nobody ought ever to overlook this tomb, as it is perhaps the most interesting and pathetic object in England. Simplicity and elegance ap- j.ear in the workmanship ,• tenderness and in- nocence in the image. On a marble pedestal ASHBOURNE. 221 and slab, like a low table, is a mattrass with the CHILD laying on it, both likewise in white mar- ble. Her cheek expressive of suffering mildness, reclines on the pillow, and her litde fevered hands gently rest on each other near to her head. The plain andoniy drapery is a frock, the skirt flow- ing easily out before, and a ribbon-sash, the knot twisted forward, as it were, by the restlessness of pain, and the two ends spread out in the same direction with tlie frock. The delicate no.ved feet are carelessly folded over each other, and the whole appearance is as if she had just turned in the tossino-sof her illness to seek a cooler or an easier place of rest. The man whom this does iaot affect need not proceed any farther in his tour; his heart is not formed to relish the beau- ties either of nature or of art !" This writer then adds, alluding to the inscrip- tions, "Toali these expressions of grief mightnot ojie be added — JVeep not, the damsel is not dead but slespetl) !" Surely in such cases it is our duty as v/elJ as privilege, to have recourse to the conso- lations of Cliristianity. In the vicinity of Ashbourne lies Dovedale, a spot known far and near for its romantic sce- nery. A foot-path winds along its side, and sometimes presents a tremendous declivity. At one of these places^ a iew years ago, an Irish Dean on horseback, with a lady behind him, was by accident thrown dov/n a precipice and dashed to j)ieces ! The lady was saved by catching hold of a twig : the shattered remains of the unfojitu- V 3 222 JUVENILE TOURIST. nate clergyman were interred in Ashbourne church, vhere I saw a plain stone dedicated to his me- mory ! Not far from this dale, Hume procured a placeof retreat for that ingenious novelist, Rous- seau; it was suited to his genius, affording him scope for his favourite study, botany; and secur- in"' to him an asylum from the bustle of the world. From this abode, however, he, with an ec- centricity, allied to insanity, soon issued, inflamed by some imaginary affront, and heaping re- proaches on the persons to whom he stood most indebted for an attention to his welfare and felicity. After breakfast we mounted our horses, and set out for Kedd/eston, close to which is the seat of Lord Scarsdale, the g^ory of Derbyshire •' This is a noble mansion, of modern erection, and is thought to have cost two hundred thousand pounds ! The house-keeper, a polite old lady, con- ducted us through the apartments. The front, built of white stone, is extensive. In the centre is a flight of steps, over which is a pediment s-up- ported by four lofty pillars of the Corinthian order. On each side a corridore connects a pavil'on with the body of the house, and form- ing the two wings of the steps, leads into a mag- nificent hall, behind which is a circular saloon. On the left are a music-room, drawing-room^ and a library, and at the end of the corridore, the private apartments of Lord and Lady Scars- dale, and their young family. On the right of the hall are the dining-room, state dressing-room^ KEDDLESTON. 223 a bed-chamber, and aaother dressing-room, the kitchen, and offices. In the hall arc eight iiuted pillars, ot" the variegated marble of" the county ! They are twenty-five feet high and two feet six inches in diameter. The room itself is sixty feet by thirty, decorated willi designs from Homer, tiie revered father of poetry ! In the library, over the chimnc}^, is a piece of Rembrandt. It is the story of Daniel brought before Nebuchadnezzar to interprethis dream, and contaii:!s eight or nine small whole length figures. We marked the com- posed majesty of the king, vv ho is seated in a chair of state ; the astonishment and terror of iiis great men sitting near him; the earnestness of Daniel kneeling before him ; in short, the Vvhole piece, is striking beyond expression. Tiie kitchesi, whicii is spacious, has tliis motto, which oupht to be written up in a!l kitchens, and attended to by all servants — zc'aste not ! ivant not! From the principal front of the house, the eye is conducted by a beautiful slope to water, which is seen tumbling .down a cascade, encircling an island planted with firs at the edge falling over rou2;Ii rocks; and then forming a large sheet of water, on which is a yacht. Below is a small rustic building, over the u^ell and bath, used for scor- butic cases by persons who are accommodated at the inn, built by his lordship in the road, and from v/hich an avenue through the park leads to the bath. In the back front of the house, on the edge of the rising ground, is a plantation, begin- ning to shew itself in great beauty. -d-i JUVENILE TOURIST. Derhi/, at the distance of three miles, we reached to dinner. 7'his town is large, populous, and on the whole v/ell built, containing five parish churches. All-saints is a noble structure, erected in the reign of Queen Mary, and its Gothic tower possesses uncommon beauty. Itis said to have been built at the sole expence of the bachelors and maidens in the town ; hence it was formerly the custom, when a young v.oman, a native of the place, was married, for the bache- lors to ring the bells ! A pr(->per tribute this of resjiect to the holi/ state of matrimony. The town was an ancient borough bj^ prescriprion, antl in the reign of Charles'the First, received a charter of incorporation. It has a weekly market on Fridays, is 126 miles from London, and stands on the Derweut, nearly in the centre of the kingdom. Derby has a silk mill on the river erected by Sir Tliomas Loombe, who, at an immense ex- pense and great haziird, brought the model from Italy. It is fixed in a large house, six stories high, and consists of 26,5S6 wheels, with 97,746 movements, all driven by one large water wheel, fixed on the outside of the house! It goes round three times in one minute, and each time works 73,726 yards ofsilk thread, so that in twenty-four hours, it works ^18,496,;-/20 yards of silk thread, under the management of only one regulator ! It has been of such service to the silk trade, that Sir Thomas had the benefit of it during his liie ; but the parliament having allowed hiui fourteen thou- DEllBY. ii^J sand pounds, as a further reward for bis services, he puffered a model of it to be taken. This model now lies in the Record Office at the To\vdad, open, and well paved. It is remarkable .that the whole town is undermined with caverns of an umazinir depth, so that it is tib!e Variety of Knowledge j His eloquence was the delight of every public Aiscrably, And his conversation the charm of every private circle. In him the erudition of the Scholar, The discriiuinatioa of the Historian, And the boldness of the Reformer, Were united in an eminent degree. With the virtues which ailorn the Man And the Chrisiia;; ! He died at Birmiiighatii, the 8th of June, Aged Sl^-ears, And was buried necr this spot. I would -beg leave to recommend to you, my 5 oung friend, the Life of this v.orthy man, pre- Y 24'2 JUVENILE TOURIST. fixed to an handsome Edition of his smaller pro- ductions in Jour volumes, by Mr. B. Flower, of Cambridge. This Biographer has repelled the attacks of Fanaticism and Infidelity, shewing him to be what he really professed himself, the rational, consistent, and liberal friend of Chris- TlANl'i Y. Wishing to bring with me from Birminghajn some memorial of ingenuity, for the display of which the place is distinguished, I entered a prin- cipal shop, and after having looked over various little articles, purchased a medal of the great AVasiiington. Individuals who A'wezy him have pronounced the impression a striking likeness. Hound the profile are these words, tiEORCE WASHINGTON, OB. 14 DEC. 1799, JE. 68. On the re;erse is the figure of Fame with her trum- pet, having this inscription encircled with oak and laurel, emancipator of America! This real patriot, considered either in his military or legislative capacity, possesses a degree of merit which surpasses my feeble powers of commen- dation. His prudence and fortitude throughout the American war, his wisdom and moderation during the period of his presidency, to which he was twice elected, together with his determined firmness in preserving peace with this country, during our lamentable contest with France, en- title him to the reverence and gratitude of suc- ceeding generations. On this account 1 honour and esteem his character, and for these reasons the account of his illness, death, and interment, t MECHANIC THEATRE AT PARIS. 243 in the American prints, was particularly affecting and impressive : — Sweet Peace! do tliou /lisrelics keep. With olivcj blooming round thy head ; And stretch ihy wings across the deep. To bless the nations witli the shade ! Stand on the pile immortal Fame, Broad stars adorn thy brightest robe; Thy thousand voices sound his name, In silver accents round the globe ! Flattery shall faint beneath the sound While hoary truth inspires the song ; Envy grow pale and bite the ground. And slander gnaw her forky tongue ! Night and the grave remove your gloom. Darkness becomes the vulgar dead ; But glory bids the patriot tomb j Disdaiu tlie horrors of a sh-.ide ! GLonrwith all her lamps shall burn. And watch the warrior's sleeping cliiy. Till the last trumpet rouse his urn. To aid the triumphs of the day I WATTt. During my stay at Biritiinghani T was grati- fied by ingenious pieces of mechanism to be seen in some of the principal manufactories in the town. It is incredible to wiiat perfection sucli things are brouglit. They reminded me of what 1 had read respecting the Mechanic Theatre at Paris. The account of this exhibition being somewhat similar, shall be transcribed: — "Tlie spectacle in the Picturesque and Mechanical 'The- atre consisted of scenery and appropriate little moving figure*. Tl)e first scene was a view of Y 2 I €44 JUVENILE TOURIST. a wood in early morning ; every object looked blue, fresh, and dewy. The gradations of light, until the approach of meridian day, were admi- rably represented. Serpents were seen crawling in the grass. A little sportsman entered with his fowling-piece, and imitated ail the move- ments natural to his pursuits ; a tiny wild tiuck rose from a lake and flew before him. He {•ointed his gnn, and changed his situation, pointed again, and fired. The bird dropped, he threw it over his shoulders, fastened his gun, and retired. Waggons, drawn by horses four inches high, passed along; groups of peasantry tolinwed, exquisitely imitating all the indications of life. Amongst several other scenes was a beaut^.ful view of the bay of Naples, and the great bridge, over which little horses, with their riders, passed in the various paces of walking, trotting, and galloping ! All the minutiae of na- ture were attended to. The ear was beguiled witli the patting of the horses' hoofs upon the pavement, and some of the little animals reared and ran before the others. There \rcre also some charming little sea pieces, in which the vessels sailed with their heads towards the spectators, and manoeuvred in a surprising manner. The whole concluded v;ith a storm and shipwreck. S.iilors were seen floating in the water, then sinking in the surge. One of them rose again and reached a rock. Boats put oft' to his relief, and perished in the attempt. The little figure was seen displaying the greatest agonies. The THE STRATFORD JUBILEE. ti$ storm subsided, tiny persons appeared upon ihe top of a projecting clifF, near a watch-tower, and lowered a rope to tiie little sufferer below, which he caught, and after ascending to some height by it, overwhelmed by fatigue, lost his hold. After recovering from the fall he renewed hir efforts, and at length reached the top in safety, amidst the acclamations of the spectators !"'* How great the gratification to behold the inge- nuity of MAN applied, as it is by our own coun- trymen at this place, in a direction which mul- tiplies the comforts and augments the happiness of society ! Birmingham stands in the county of Warwick, and I must not quit these parts without men- tioning that it was this county gave birth^to our incomparable Shakspeare! He was born April J 6", I064, at Stratford-on-Avon, about twenty miles from Birmingham, and his monu- ment is still to be seen in its church, informinsr US that he died in 1616, at this his native town. Here on the ()th of September, I76"y, a jubilee was performed in honour of Shakspeare, in which the late Mr. Garrick bore a part. Great preparations were made on the occasion. The poet's bust over his monument in the church was crowned with bays. The town-hall was or- namented at one end with a good picture of * See Sir John Can's Stranger in Fiance ; tljis and his other Tours are highly entertaining, and coiubme much inioroiation relative to some of the most interesting portions of the civilised world. Y 3 Q-lG JUVENILE TOURIST. Shakspcare, in the attilirle of inspiration, and at the other with a copy of Gainsborough's por- trait of Garrick. Ii5 iive windows were orna- mented with transparent paintings on silk — the Cicnim of Shakspeaie, King Lear, Fahtoff, Pit;' tol, and Caliban! Without the town was erected an atnphitlieatre, supported by a circular colon- nade of eolumns of the Corinthian order. A part of the room was laken np with an orchestra for the music, and it was illuminated by a chandelier of 800 lights hanging from the centre of the roof! Numbers of nobility and gentry attended on this occasion. 'Yhe jubilee began with a song in honour of Shakspeare, performed in the streets early in the morning. The company break- fasted in the town-hall, before which drums and fifes played favourite marclies; from thence they ])roceeded to the church, where the oratorio of Judith was performed. At three the company went to the amphitheatre, where they dined, and after a bumper drank to M r. Garrick, and to the memory of Shakspeare, (which last was ac- companied with three huzzas) the performers in the orchestra sung catches and glees, while the company joined in the chorus. After this was sung, tlic old soiig God save the King, in which the whole com puny joined, and the evening concludefl with a ball. Unfortunr.tely the next morning proving wet prevented a procession, wiiich \v;4s intended to have been made to the amphitheatre. They, however, repaired (hither at noon, when an ode, written l-y Mi\ Garrick, and adapted to the occasion, vvas performed. Ihe music THE STRATFORD JUBILEE. 247 was composed by Dr. A rne, and the reeitative parts were spoken by Mr. Ganick. This being over, Mr. King, tlie comedian, in the charac- ter of an ambassador from the society of the Macaroni, with humour attacked the charac- ter of Shakspeare ; after which Mr. Garrick ad- dressed tlieladiesin a poetic speech, compliment- ing them on the respect they had shewn to the immortal bard. In the evening were displayed some fire-works, though the badness of the wea- llicr spoiled their effect; and the whole was • concluded by a masquerade, which lasted till be- tween six and seven in the mornino:. The com- pany assembled on the occasion is said to have amounted to about 800 to breakfast, 1500 at dinner, and about 2000 at the oratorio, ball, and masquerade ! It is to be regretted that the weather abridged these commemorative di- versions. Shakspeare will continue to maintain his empire over the human mind, by his skill in imi- tating the language of the passions. Here his triumphs are unrivalled ; and Pope pronounces him to be the organ through which nature speaks directly to the heart : — O youth and virgins ! O declining old ! O pale misfortune's slaves ! O ye who dwell Unknown with humble quiet ! ye who wait In courts, and fill the golden seat of kings : O sons of sport and pleasure- ! O thou wretch That weepest jealous love, and the sore wound Of conscious guilt, or death's rapacious hand, Tiiat lelt thee void of iiope ! O ye who mourn In exile ! Ye who thnnigh the embattled field Seek bright renown, or who for nobler palms 248 JUVENILE TOURIST. Contend the leaders of .-i public cause j Ijath not HIS faithful tongue Told^ou the fashion of you own estate. The secrets of your bosom ? JIKCNSICX. It is somewhat strange that Shakspeare should afford such a paucity of materials for his bio- graphy. But after all, his works impart the best idea of his character: — this, indeed, is suggested by Ben Jonson, in some lines affixed to an en- graving of the bard, said to be an original like- ness, and lately shev.n me by my worthy and in- srenious friend Mr. Robert Bloomfield : — This figure that thou here seest put, It v/as (or geiitle Shakspeare cut ; Wherein the graver had a. strife With nature, to out-do the life. O I could he but have drawn his v/it, As well in brasse as he hath hit His face, the print would then surpass* All that was ever writ in brasse ! But since he cannot, reader looke Kot on his picture but his book.£ ! You will pardon me, my young friend, for this digression ; being in my tour so near the native place of our immortal poet, to say some- thing concerning the spot was a temptation too strong to be resisted. You who have often, in the course of your studios, recited several of his passages with rapture, will cheerfully unite with nie in paying this token of respect to his me- mory. I remain^ dear Sir, Your's,&c. 249 LETTER VI. 3P.0MSGK0VE ; DR©ITWrCH ; ITS SALT PITS ; HISTOny AND USES OF salt; 1V0RCE3TER; ITS HANDSOME APPEARANCE AND PLEASANT SITUATION ; BATTLE OF WORCESTER 5 FLIGHT OF CHARLES THE SECOND ; TEWKESBURY ; GLOU- CESTER; CATHEDRAL ; IllSHOP WARBURTON ; CHELTEN- HAM ; ITS MEDICINAL WATERS ; DR. JENNER Z SUCCESS OP THE VACCINE INOCULATION; ROSS ; MAN OP ROSS ; MON- MOUTH J RAGLAND CASTLE; USK; ITS CASTLE; ITS SAL- MON nSHElfV; PLACE OF JIV NATIVITY. BEAR Sin, JETTING ofF ill the mail about five in the af- ternoon from Birmingham, I passed through Br9fns(riove, Droitwich, and Worcester, to Glou- cester. Each of these places will require a detail, which shall be given with brevity. Bromsgrove is a small town, seated on the river Salwarp, with about 400 houses. It carries on a trade in clothing, and has a market for catlle, corn, and all sorts of provisions. Droindch, though a small place, with few in- habitants, is a place of antiquity, and noted for its salt-pits, which were fornieriy many, and were even known in the reign of Alfred the Great ; but their number is dnuinished. A singular phenomenon mnv be seen in Po- land of a toicn in a salt mine, which is thus des- cribed by Dr. Darwin: — 250 JUVENILE TOURIST. Cavern'd around in Cracow's mighty mines, With crystal walls a gorgeous city shines ; Scoop'd in the briny rock long streets extent?, T!)eir hoary course, and glittering donres ascend; Dowuthe bright steeps,^ emerging into day. Impetuous fountains burst their headlong way O'er milk-white vales, in ivory channels spread. And wandering seek their subterraneous bed. Far gleaming o'er the town transparent fanes Rear their white towers, and ware their golden vaneg ; Long lines of lustres pour their trembling rays. And the bright vault returns the mingled blaze ! How pleasing are the researches of the philo- sopher into the nature of those substances which enrich and beautify the natural world ! They not only serve to gratify that thirstfor knowledge by which man is distinguished above all other ani- mals on the face of the globe ; but they at once increase the comforts of life and extend the sources of national prosperity. Worcester \s a handsome city, standing on the Severn ; its streets are spacious, the buildings handsome, and many of its inhabitants rank among the higher classes of society. It has a ca- thedral and nine parish churches, besides meet- ing-houses for the severaldeiiominations of pro- testant dissenters. — The cathedral was repaired in the year 1752, at which time the workmen, on taking off the top of a tomb (the inscription of which was obliterated except the date, 129G) found the bones of a corpse firm, and most of them adhering together, in the same postiu'c as when interred, and about the skull and shoulders appeared something like a coarse sacking or sack- WORCESTER. 251 cloth quite fresh. The body of King John also having been buried here, was of late years found in a state of high preservation. With respect to the churches, the spire of St. Nicholas attracts attention^ and in its parish is a free-school, found- ed by Henry the Eighth, which has produced ex- cellent scholars. In the High-street, which is broad, stands the Guildhall, a stately structure, decorated by the statue of Justice, holding aloft her scales of rigorous impartiality ! In this city there is a mart for hops ; and here is a manufac- tory of china, much esteemed, in which numbers cfhandsare employed. Here is likewise an infir- mary, supported by voluntary contributions ; and many charity schools — by such institutions the community cannot fail of being essentially benefitted. It may not be improper to remark, that about fifty years ago. Dr. Maddox, bishop of Worces- ter, preached a sermon before this infirmary for the recommendation of /nocM/a?/o>i for the Sniall- Pox, a practice which was then just introduced into the country. Similar steps ought to be ta- ken in the present day by the clergy of every denomination, to extend the practice of Vaccine Inoculation, a discovery pregnant vvitli blessings to the community. The most remarkable event that ever hap- pened in this city, was the battle between the English, under the command of Oliver Crom- well, and the Scotch who had taken up arms in defence of Charles the Second, Cromwell en- 232 JUVENILE TOURIST. camped within a mile of the town, having first detached General Lambert with some forces to the opposite side of the river, which obliged Charles to weaken his arm}- by sending his men to oppose Lambert. While these two detach- ments were engaged, Cromwell attacked the loyalists at both ends of the city, and the en- gagement continued for hours with fury. The Scotch commanded by the Duke of Hamilton and the Earl of Middleton, fought with bravery, but both of these noblemen having been wound- ed, and most of their men killed, a sudden fear seized the rest of them, and a dreadful slaughter ensued. The king endeavoured to bring them once more to renew the charge, but his eflbrts were in vain. The foot finding themselves de- serted by the horsemen, were filled with such terror that they stood motionless, whilst upwards of iJOOO were killed on the spot, and above 8000 taken prisoners, most of whom were sold as slaves to the American Colonies. Cromwell or- dered his inen to level the walls of the city to the ground. The king in the meantime escaping through the gate of St. Martin, sought safety In- flight. He first dressed himself in the habit ol a peasant, and in that disguise travelled through several parts of the kingdom, being frequently in danger of being seized by his enemies, espe- cially as a price was set upon his head, the bet- ter to elude the search of his pursuers, he spent a v.'hole day in a tuj'ted oak, at Boscobel in Staf- fordshire, thence called the ROYAL OAK, whcre HACLEY. 253 lie saw pass under liim some persons on horse- back, who expressed, inhis hearing, then- earnest wishes that he might fall into their hands. At onetime he was detected by the sagacity of a smith, who remarked that his horse-shoes had been made in the north, not in the west, as he pretended ; and he very narrowly escaped. At another time he was discovered by one Pope, the butler of a family, where he happened to corneas r^ervantto a visitor, but Charles made the bul- ier promise that he woidd keep the secret from €ver\' mortal, even from his master, and he was as good as his word. At last, after a concea]- ment o^ forty-one days, be embarked in a vessel at Shoreham, in Sussex, and landed safely at Fescamp, in Normandy. The man who carried him over, lies buried in Brighton church-yard,J -^ where I have seen a stone with a long inscription, mentioning the circumstance and applauding his loyalty. There is a report iu that part of tlie country, that an annuity was given the fa- mily by way of reward, and that it has been lately discontinued. Charles remained in this state of exile till the 29th of May, 1 660, when he was restored to the throne of these kingdoms. — The above anecdote shows the reason why Oak is still worn in the hat on the !29th of May, as commemorative of the restoration. It is in this county that Hagfei/ lies, the seat of Lord Lyttleton. The house, situated on aris- ing ground, commands an extensive prospect. The ascent to this mansion is by a iiight of 254 JUVENILE TOUniST. steps : the edifice itself, built of grained stone, has been reckoned one of the most beautiful structures in England. It was erected by ihe celebrated George Lord Lyttltton, author ot many admired productions, who has embellished several of the rooms with the portraits of Pope, Thomson, West, and characters of a similar des- cription. With most of these his Lordship was acquainted, and ho was held by them in estima- tion. In early life he had been a deist, but upon his believing Christianity, he wrote some excel- lent Observations on the Conversion and Apostle- ship of St. Paul, which remain as an irrefragable proof of his judgment, integrity, and piety. The gardens belonging to this far-famed mansion are so picturesque, that they havenotunfrequently been made the subject of song. His lordship, in his Monody on the Death of his IVife, alludes to them in an affecting manner : — O shadesof IIagley ! where is now ^ our boast ? Your bright iuhabitant is lost ; — You she prcferr'd to all the gay resorls, Wlicre female vanity niiglit wish to shine. The pomp of cities and the pride of courts : Her modest beauties sliunn'd the public eye — To your scquester'd dales, And flow'r-enibroidcr'd vales. From aikadiuiriHg world she chose to fly. With nature there rfetir'd, and nature's Cod| The silent paths of wisdom trod. And banish'd every imssion Iromhcr breast. But those the gentlest and the bcstj — Whose Iioly flames, with energy divine, The virtuous heart enliven and improve, Tho conjugal and the matenuU Jove ! TEWKESBURY. — GLOtTCESTER. 255 Til is accomplished noblemun has, by these lines, shewn at once the fervor of his affection " towards the deceased, and the poignancy ofhis grief upon her dissolution. More expressive strains could not luive been ])enned ;" nor was a richer offerinii; ever made on the altar of do- mestic felicity. Leaving ^Wircester, we passed on througli 2\uc'kesbioy to G/oncestep. Teivkesbiiiy is a large populous town, wilh a fine Gothic structure for its church ; on the west end are two turrets, and the tov.er in the middle lias a ring of musical bells. I'he place was con- siderable even in the Heptarchy, as appears from its abbey, founded about tlie beginning of the eighth century, by two brothers, Saxon Lioble- uien, as an atonement for so-uc horrid crimes wiiich they had committed. A terrible battle was fought here, May lOfh, 1471 ; thousands fell victiQ:i3 at the shrine of ambition on this feloody day ! As we were quitting Tewkesbury, near inid- nightj the moon burst upon us from beneath the linings of a silvery cloud, and its gentle beauts flung a beauty over the surrounding scenery ! We soon reached Gloucester, entitled by the Ancient Britons n fair city, for it is situated on the Severn, which is navigable for small vessels even to the quay. In the course of our history it underwent revolutions. At present it has four gates, and in the centre of the city four streets meet at right angles. A reservoir in the vicinity z 2 £55 JUVENILE TOURIST. iwinds forth its streams into four canals, for the supply of the inhabitants. A prison has been re- cently built on the plan of Howard^, and is, alas ! too fully inhabited. Here is a grammar-school, conducted with ability. The Greek Grammar drawn up for the use of this seminary, possesses merit in point of precision and accuracy. The Cathedral is a beautiful structure, with a fine tower, in which is an excellent ring of eight bells. Over the east end of the choir is a whispering gallery, but it is now knowji that certain archi- tectural adjustments occasion this reverberation. Here is to be found the monument of tbat lite- rary phcenomenon Dr. Warburton', wlio was for many years bishop of tiiis see ; the followmg is the inscription drawn up by U\s friend Dr. Hurd, the late bishop of Worcester; •^^To the memory of William Warburton, .1). D. for more than 19 years bishop of this see ; a prelate of the most sublime genius and exqui- site learning, both which talents he employed through a long life, in support of what he iirmly believed the christian religion ; and of what he esteemed the best establishment of it, the church of England. He was born at Newark-upon-Trent, Dec. 24, I691 ; was con- secrated bishop cf Gloucester, Jan. iiO, 1760; died at his palace in this city, June 7, 1779, and was buried near this place." Curious_ Letters between Warhuiton and llurd are just published -rthey were left for publication by the ktter pre- ^JSHOP WARBURTON. 257 Jate ; and the profits arising from them, are to be given to the Worcester Infirmary. The abilities of bishop Warburton, as well as his acquirements, were of a superior kind.— But the superciliousness with which he treated his adversaries created hira enemies, and left an unfavourable impression on the mind of the public. In his correspondence with Dr. Dod- dridge, he appears in an amiable point of view. Speaking in one of his letters to that excellent man, of the variations to which human life is subjected, he has this observation : — " I do the best I can, and .should, I think, do the same if I were a mere Pagan, to make life passable. To be always lamenting the miseries of it, or al- ways seeking after the pleasures of it, equally takes us off from the work of our salvation. And though I be extremely cautious what sect I fol- low in religion, yet any in philosophy will serve my turn, and honest San'cho Panca's Is as good as any ; who, on his return from an important commission, when asked by his master whether 1)6 should mark the day with a lilack or a zohile stone — replied, faith, Sir, if you will be ruled bv me, with neither, but with- good broicn ocfiref What this philosopher thouglit'of his commis- sion, I think of liuman life in general, good broitn ochre h the complexion of it." A few miles to the north-east of Gloucestei? lies the little town of Cheltenham, famous for i^* mineral waters. .^ Chelteiiham IS ix smaW p'ac >; chie.ly built of z'3 t3'$ JUVENILE TOURIST. brick, having one long Street, with a variety of outlets into the country. In the year 1780 the lodgings for visitants were few, now they are much increased. Its waters, the ingredients of which are Epsom and Glauber salts, a small por- tion of chalybeate, and some fixed air, are in repute for the cure of hypochondriac and scor- butic cases : they are indeed also beneficial in obstructions of every description. Its rooms, likewise, are commodious for the company ; its theatre well fitted up ; and indeed Cheltenham may boast of the usual amusements to be found at such places : — Society here twines its wreaths, Good nature o'er their mc«tiiig» breathes ; Its mugic look tlie wliole obey, Whellitr ;.t pump, or ball, or play ! CHELT. ouiDi; It is well known that the Roijal FauiUif have visited this spot ; and ever since that period it Tjas been frequented by persons of the highest respectability. It may not be improper to add, that the walk, above the well, shaded by a plan- tation oflinic-trees for the space of near 300 feet, yields a delightful retirement. Here the valetu- dinarian may indulge his emotions of gratitude to the b'uprcme Being, for having endowed with medicinal virtues so many parts of nature, with the view of banishing disease and of restoring health, the want of which poisons and destroys our fclicit}'. At Cheltenham it is that the celebrated Dr, 6 DR. JENNER. 9.59 Edward Jenner, (a native of this county) passes his summer months ; to whose benevolent labours mankind are indebted. The blessings flowing from the Vaccine Inoculation are incalculable ! Fervent hopes are entertained that this discovery, now making its way through the four quarters of the world, will annihilate the small-pox, which on account of its virulence and fatal effects, may be termed the hithereto stand' ing plague of society. The clouds of prejudice indeed are now seen passing away ; the sun of science and humanity has arisen with its beams to bless the children of men : — see them extend their vivifying influence to the latest posterity :— When FUTURE aces shall high trophies raise To those who best deserv'd their country's praise. And worth departed claims the tribute just — ToJiiNNER then shall rise the honour'd bust! On its broad base shall shew the wondering throng The dreadful scourge that nations bere so long ; Here niolhersj slmdd'ring, shall the horrors view. Which from this dread dheaie, their parents knew; With iearful c^es, with grateful love imprest. Shall chisp their beanteous oflfspriiig to their breast j With sweet emotions feel their bosoms glow. That no jMc/i sorrows they are doom'd to know ; Then round his shrine weave the ne'er fading bajs. And to HIS memory pour IMMORTAL lays • 7L0W£RnEW. It is in the county of Gloucester that the no- ble river Thames takes its rise, from a small cpring not far from Cirencester:-— Thames, the most lov'd of all the ocean's utm, By his old sire to his embraces run?, 260 JUVExNlLE TOURIST, Hastening to pay his tri'oulc to the sea. Like un ridl lile u meet eieniiij' ! From Gloucester, the nearest way lo Ponty- pool is through Ross, Menmouth, and Usk ; phces entitled to some attention. Ross is an old town^ situated on the banks of the Wye. The air is healthy, and the neigh- bouring fields leriile and deligluful. The houses are in general well built, and the place, for the size, populous. The only remarkable buildings are two charity-schools, supported by voluntary subscriptions. In this town lived Pope's fa- mous character, whose charities the poet has de- lineated : But all our praises why should lords engross ? Rise, honest inuge ! and sing the Man of Ross. Whose causeway parts the vale withsliady rows ; W'liose seats the weary traveller repobc ? Who taught that heaven-directed spire to rise? Tlie Man of Ross, each lisping bahe replies. Behold the market-place with poor o'crspread. The Man of Ross divides the daily bread ; He feeds yon aim-house neat but void of state. Where age and want sit smiling at tlie gate. He portion'd maids, apprentic'd orpnans blest j The young wIk) labour, and the old who rest. Is any sick? the AIan of Ross relieves. Prescribes, attends, the mcd'cinc makes and gives Is tlierc a variance ? enter but hi.s doer, Banlk'd are tlie courts, and contest is no more. Dcsparing quacks, with curses (led the place ; And vile atiornies — now an useless race ! Tlirice happy man ! enabled to pursue. What many wish, but want the pow'er to do. MONMOUTH. 261 O say ! what sums that generous hand supply ? What mines to swell that boundless charity ? Of debts and taxes, wife and children clear. This man possess'd — -Jiiie hniidred pounds a year. Blush, grandeur blush ! proud courts withdraw your bkze ! Ye little stars— hide your diiiiinish'd rays ! • The nrcuic of this neison, whose deeds are thns pourtrayed, was Mr. John Kyrle ; — he died here in the year 1724, at the age of ninety, after having spent sLiti/ years of his life in doing good to his fellow-creatures. The poet has not ex- ceeded matter of fact. Mr. Kyrle was a bache- lor, and of his estate, amounting to 500]. per an- vum, he spent only50l. in support of himself. Such rare characters ought to be consigned over to immortality ! Monmouth is a place of antiquity. The castle, of which ruins are still visible, was probably built before the conquest. Henry of Boling- broke, son of John of Gaunt, resided some time in this building, v/here his son Edward the Fifth was born, for which reason he was called Henry of Monmouth. The situation of the town is pleasant, at the confluence of several streams, being both populous and well built. Besides the county hall, where the assizes are held, there is a good town-house, and a handsome Gothic church. There is not much trade here, except the exportation of the productions of the county, by means of the Wye, to Bristol. In the vicinity of Monmouth, Troy House rears its state- ly turrets, the seat of the Duke of Beaufort, vrho is lord lieutenant of the county. £62 JUVBNILE TOURIST. On the road from INIonmoiith to IJsk stands Rag/and Castle, \vlnch, though it is believed to be more modern than pll the other casiles in ]\fonmoiith'shire, was once a place of strength^, and remarkable for having held out in the cause of Charles the First, under the Marquis of \V()r- cester, even to the end of the civil wars. His conduct on that occasion has been the subject of admiration. His son was author of the Cen- tury of hivcntions, to wliich some suppose we owe the rise of the Steam En2.hic, an invention of inestimable utility. JJsh, (Isca) is a small town delightfully si ma- ted in the centre of the county of Monmouth. It is supposed, by Camden, to have been the Burri- um of Antoninus, where, according to the iii- nerary, there was a Roman colony. The town- house is a neat modern building, and tlic church is large and commodious. Here is an ancient inscription said to puzzle all the learned in the kingdom. For its explication the appendix to Coxe's History of Monmouthshire may be con- sulted, where the following Uee translation is given by the ingenious jNlr. VVilliam Owen, au- thor of the Welsh .Dictionary : — it is supposed to be an epitaph on some celebrated personage, whose name seems not to be recoverable : — " Ah ! behold the grave of the great Teacher is the sod of the vale \ wiicn a battle took place London felt embarrassed, and the song of the Bards of ancient lore, atid their joy, all vanish through his death ! He whc was like iSoIumoii^ TJSK. SGj profound of word, on Isca's banks is his couch of -sleep ; Fairly the eloquent doctor reconciled disputes — clergy and laitv were fully enlightened -by him." Formerly there was a fine castle here, on the brow of the hill overhanging the town, which the Welsh princes used as a garrison against the incursions of the English. The remains of the fabric are still visible, and a part clasped round by the aged ivy, forms an interesting spectacle in the appearance of the country : — The moulderinir walls Black willi the rust of age, and all wilhiu Silence and waste, while not a sound was heard But the wind, moaning ; not a form beheld. Save one, tiiat fancy imaged to tlieir mind ; The spirit of Destruction ! slie who haunts The moss-grown temples, and the wild resort Of bats and scorpions — where no mortal steps Make the walls ninrmnr with obtrusive sounds ; But cries and scr.eeches, from all hated beings Sound even more, whilst the whole progeny Of doleful things, that court rank sylitude. Thrive and make nverriraeut. Upon a piie She loves to sit, of broken monuments. And o'er the scene casts au exultant eye. Smiling to view the nias^y pillars falleiij The aged altars, trophies, pedestals ! — And where the invulner.nble sliaft wiihstands Her liateand her derision, round she strews The cree}mig ivy, with its living shade. To hide all forms of man! COtti.e. The river Usk, running by the town, has a good bridge thrown over it, but the floods in the winter season endanger its stability. The limpid £64 JUVENILE TOURIST. Stream flowing through its arches, has been long famous for suhnon, by which the Bath and Bris- tol markets are supplied. This fishery has proved profitable to its proprietors; and amusing it is to behold the contrivances which ingenuity has devised to secure its prey. For the little rural town of Uak, I must be suf- fered to indulge a degree of partiality natural to the human heart— for here 1 drew my Jirst breath, ca the second day of October, 17Ci7 '• — Kescio qua natale solum dulcedine mentcm, Jangit io>i sinit exe sui. Even to the most common minds their natal wil presents some endearment. But my worthy young friend, neither the time of our birth, nor the period of our dissolution, can be deemed of consequence : — Enongh — tliat Viiitue fill'Jtlie space between. Proved by tlic c'uJi of being — to have been ! POPE. Since writing the above I visited Usk, (in the summer of lS07)and entered not only the house, but the very room where the light first beamed on my eyes. My emotions were peculiar — they cannot be described — existence is a blessing, notwithstanding all the troubles and vexations of mortality :— Liu" has no value as an end but means — As an end ileiilorable — a rneam divine; When 'tis oiir all, 'lis nolliing — worse than nought A nest of pains ; when lield as uolhiug much. Then 'tis the seat of comfort, rich in peace, RETURN TO LONTIONT. 2Gd In prospect riclicrfar — important — awful, Not to be mention'd, but witli sliouts of praise. Not to be thought on, but with tides ofjoy, Tlie mighty basis of eternal cuss ! I at length reached Ponti/pooJ, emhosomed in its hills, fatigued by my circuitous journey. An account of this sequestered spot, and a sketch of my return through Bristol, Bath, Reading, Wind- sor, &c. back to the metropolis, will form the contents of my three next epistles, when both you, iny young friend, and my p«j, will be relieved, by my subscribing myself. ^our affectionate Tutor. ■ i! A Q.6G JUVENILE TOURIST. LETTER FII* roNivpoor; its rojiantic situation; great hoitse ; its INTEHIOU AN'U KXTEniOR DECORATIONS J ITS CHURCH J inoN manufactory; japan manufactory; canal; APPARITIONS and FAiniiis ; sunnouNDiNC. scenery ; caerleon ; IIS antiquity and curiosities ; Nliwpour, A FLOURISHING SEA-PORT; CHRIST CHURCH; CAERWENT ; piehcefield ; its beauties; valentine morris; his prosperity and advlrsitv. MY DEAR YOUNG FPdEND, JtIAVING informed you at the close of my last letter, that 1 reached Pontypool ; here I rested for a few days beneath my paternal roof. The siLrhtof kind relatives and friends, whom you have not seen for a time, invigorates the feelings, and awakens the best emotions of the heart. Such in- tercourses are of a delicious kind ; they are the result ©f the social law of our nature, and the}^ constitute a bund of pnio?i among the numberless * Though Monmoiithshii-e be mcluded in tke Oxford eirciiit, and on that.;:Cco!iiU is deemed a part of England, yet the lan- guage andmannncn of the good foJks in the country shew that it s'lll has a just claim on being reckoned a part of the principality of Wales. The author having considered it as suck in the pre- sent letter, the above reasons form his apology. The Hhtonj of ^[onnioHthshirc by Mr. Coxe, decorated with beautiful engra- vings, is an entertaining work replete with information. PONTYPOOL, 267 families which are scattered over the surface of the earth ! Pontypoolh a small town of Monmouthshire, which has risen up in the course of the last cen- tury. It owes its existence to the mineral trea- sures which lie concealed in the surrounding- hills. The quantities of iron ore and of coal, here dug out of the bowels of tlie earth, are astonishing. The hammer and the pick- axe are heard to resound where used to prevail the pro- foundest silence ; whilst the roaring furnace and the thundering forge shake the vailics through which the brooks were wont to flow wilh an im- int-errupted placichtj'! Scarce had the genius of our Inppy isle Wing'd freedom here, when she began to smite ; O'er all this chccqiier'd scene she deign'd to loo'ft, Pcep'd in each hill, surveyed each winding brook ; Tlje blooming opse, nnd t;ill jiiajestic oalj She eyed with joy, and thus prophetic si)olie : — " lUre, in these wilds, in this obscure retreat. Of artsrenown'd, I'll fi>c the ksting scut ; Inspir'd by me thy li.irdy sons shall pour From those long pregnant hills the poiid'roiis ore ; While sooty liauds rru:-n teuis of turfshall aid (Willi jetty charcoal) the important trade:; T/ii- rolling stream, or thiit%m?.\\ murmuring ri!!, Shall motion give to ihiindcring forge or mill ; While through yon vale shall dusky columns rise, Tliat lill the air and dim thj lucid skies !" In approaching the place you have no view of the town till you enter it. The windings thither are romantic, and commence from the Turnpike- House, a neat little structure of recent erection, 2 A 2 2(38 JUVENILE TOURIST and close to which is a large handsome stone in the high road^ which informs you that you are a 7ni/e from Pontypool, and one hundred and fort^-eight mWes from London! After leav- ing tliis spot, a variegated scene soon presents itself to view. On the left stands a huge moun- tain with dark and dreary aspect, posses- sing none of those tokens of fertility which sooili and tranquillize the heart. On the right lies a hill with a gentle declivity, part of which Ibrms a park, where the deer are seen through the vista of lofty trees, frolicking with gamesome festivity! In full front, at the extremity ofth€ park^ and close to the town, a Gentleman's seat rears its head^ suggesting the welcome idea of plenty and hospitality. The mansion is called the Great Home, a term peculiarly appropriate ; for upon its first erection it must have appeared i/nmeiise/i/ great to persons in this part of the country, where a few huts for the accommodation of workmen were almost the otdy arcliitectural exhibitions which ornamented this portion of tiie principality. It was partly built by Major Hanbury, and partly by his son Capel; but it has undergone several improvements. As to the gardens, a lawn of verdure is seen gradually to blope from the house, thus harmonizing with the native beauties of the scenery. The house, however, is large and handsome ; it is the property of Cape/ ilanhury Leigh, Esq. who resides in it, and who, together with Mrs. Leigh, (the late Lady Mackworth,) are beloved THE IIANBBRY FAMILY. COf) for their affability and condescension. Kis fVi- tlier, John Hauhury, Esq. bore a similar charac- ter ; and after having served the county of Mon- mouth in Parliament for several years, died, on the 5th of April, 1784, at Rouen in Normandy. His remains were brought home for interment among his ancestors, and the last sad token of respect was paid to his corpee by thousands of spectators, with every degree of solemnity ! It may not be improper here to add, tlrat his widow, (daughter of M. Lewis, Esq. of St. Pierre,J married T. Stoughton, Esq. who lately re- sided, together with hisfamily.atPontypool. Both he and Mr. Leigh act in the capacity of magis- trates, and discharge its duties so well, that they are entitled to the thanks of the community. Tiie due administration of law, for the promotion of peace and security, is an unspeakable blessing to any country. The great house is decorated with family pic- tures, particularly the portraits of Major Hau- bury, of the late John Hanbury, Esq. of liis vfife, (now Mrs. Stoughton,) and their three infant sons. There is also the head of an old man, thouo-h not well painted: itis Mr.^Villiams, of Caerleon, the friend of Major Hanbury, and the great benefactor of ihe family. Mrs. Leigh likewise has brought from Gnoll Casiie, Glamorganshire, the >,eat of her late husi^and. Sir Robert Humphrey Mack- woiiii, Bart, many paintings, with v/liich the con- noisseur cannot fad of being gratified. This ieise, whose Travels on the Continent are amus- ing and instructive. jMany singular anecdotes are told of hint during his continuance in this part of the country. In the time of the Romans, London, YorJx, and Cae.''/eo«, are mentioned, as the three principal' places in the kingdom. Caerleon was then an archbishopric, and thirty Britisli kings are said to have been brought here for interment ! A splendid court was kept here, and the famous Prince Arthur, together with the Knights of the Round Jable, used here to perform feats of dex- terity. Temples, colleges, and baths, once abounded in this plivce, possessing the grandeur and magnificence of a metropolitan city. But few vestiges are now to be found. The town i* 'i JB t278. JUVENILE TOURIST. dull, and has nothing to recommend It ro atten- tion. Antiquities indeed are occasionally dug lip, which shew its former importance in the scale of society. A castle formerly commanded its entrance ; but even its mouldering remains, sometime ago visible, have nozc disappeared ! Caerleon church is a venerable object, and of some extent. Close by, stands a neat free- school, founded by a Mr. Williams, highly ser- viceable to the rising generation. Near the bridge, which used to be a wooden one, but v^hich is now recently built of stone, is a neat place of worship, and the only one in the town, for dissenters. It belongs to the Bap- tists, and was built by the late Haman Davies, Esq. A large boat goes from Caerleon to Bristol every week, carrying tliither quantities of iron, and bringing back all kinds of goods for the use of the country. About two miles below the town, on the side of the river, ma}' be seen the old mansion of St. Julian's, and two mi^es farther down, stands the town of Newport, wliicb carries on a trade with places h'ing on the shores of the Bristol channel. A handsome stone bridge has been erected here by the son of the architect who built the far-famed arch of Pont-y-pridd, near Caerphilly, in Glamorganshire. The church of Newport, called St. Jlooias, rears its head on an eminence, whence there is a charming pros- pect towards every part of the horizon ! As I was directing my course to Bristol, the SUPERSTITION. 27 1> New Passage was the object of my ciestinalion. Upon leaving Caeileon, you perceive on the summit of the hill the battered structure oi' Chrut Church, even uta distance exhibiting to the most superficial eye marks of antiquity. Within, on the pavement, is &een a long flat stone with this inscription round its edge, in Latin : Here lie John Co/mar, and Isabella his zeife,zffho died 1.S7G. On the eve of Trinity Sunday, poor persons used to come and lie all night on the stone, conceiv- ing that this would cure them of any disease with which they hapi.»on to be afflicted ! Even since the year 1800, Mr. Donovan has visited this sa- cred spot, and assures us of the following fact : '* I there to my inexpressible astonishment be- held a young man of very creditable appear- ance, with his night cap on, laying upon the bare pavement shivering with cold, his hands uplifted, and with many pious aspirations mut- tering a prayer for the rure of some affliction un- der which he appeared to labour. During this religious farce, his friends formed a spacious cir- cle round him, some standing, some sitting, and others kneeling, as best accorded with their inchnations, but all were equally intent in watch- ing the countenance and motion of the patient, to observe the progressive advancement of th^^ miracle wrought upon him, in consequence o^' this superstitious ceremony !" Since this period I have myself alighted from my horse, aaid ex- amined this far-famed stone ; was happy to find that the above absurd practice is wearing away ; 2 B 2 £80 JTTVENILE TOVRIST. it is indeed painful to an ancient Briton, to have to record such follies of his countrymen. It is time that the increasing light of the age should shed its beneficial effects on the principality. Riding on about ten miles we came to Caer- fr^;?f J a place of consequence in the times ot the Romans ; but now rural in its aspect and varie- gated in its scenery. A Roman pavement was discovered here some years ago, which I turned aside.to inspect, and was sorry to find it in a shat- tered condition. It w^as wailed round ihe center of a field ; but for want of being covered, -and from the circumstance of every visitor taking away apiece of it, the ancient figures were nearly obliierated. Not far from Caerwent, in the neiglibourhood of Chepstow, lies Piercefield, whose house and gardens have been the subject of general admira- tion. The house is a magnificent building of free-stone, reared in a romantic situation, and its interior is handsomely decorated. But it is the gardens which liave attracted so much attention. Mr. Cox E has th.us happily described ilxem: — *' On entering the grounds at the extremity of the village of St. Arvans, and at the bottom of Wyncl ClifT, the walix leads through j)lantiitions, codi- manding on the right a distant view ofthebe- vern and the surrounding country. It pene- trates into a thick forest, and conducts to the Lover's Leap, where the Wynd Cliff is seen tow- ering above the river in all its height and beauty ; and below yawns a deep and wooded abyss. It, PIERCEFIELD. 281 waves almost impeiceptiblj in a grand outline on the brow, of the majestic ampliitheatre of cliffs impending ove? the Wye, opposite to the penin- sula of Lancaut, then crosses the park, runs through groves and thickets, and again joins the banks of the Wye at the reach of the river vviiich stretches from Lancautto the castle of Ch: pstow. From the Lover's Leap the walk is carried through a thick mantle of forests, with occasional openings, which seein not tlie result of art or de- sign, but the effect of chance or nature, and seats placed, where the spectator may repose and view, at leisure, the scenery above, beneath, and around ! 1'his ■ bow'ry walk Of covert close, where scarce a speck of day Tails on the lengtiien'd gloom !■ is consonant to tl*e genius of Piercefleld. The screen of wood prevents the uniformity of u bird's eye view ; and the imperceptible bend of the ixtn- philheatre, conveys the spectator from one part of this fairy region to another, without discovering the gradations. Hence the Wye is sometimes concealed or half observed by overhanging foli- age ; at others, wholly expanding to view, is. seen sweeping beneath in a broad and circuitous chan- nel. Hence, at one place, the Severn spreads iti the midst of a boundless expanse of country, and on the opposite side to the Wye,- at another, both rivers appear on the same side, and the Severn seems supported on the level summit of liie 2 B 3 2S2 JUVENILE TOURIST. cliffs, which form the banks of the Wye. Hence the same objects present themselves in different aspects,anc] with varied accompaniments. Hence the magic transition, from the impeivious gloom of the forests to open groves, from meadows and lawns to rocks and precipices, and from the mild beauties of English landscape to the wildness of Alpine scenery." This enchanting spot was once the seat of Fa- hnt'ine Mollis, Esq. who died August 26, 1789; a character as distinguished for his imprudence as for his benevolence and hospitality. He was, however, greatly beloved, — for when his eni!)ar- lassed circumstances obliged him to q'lit his be- loved Piercefield, his departure excited kep re- gret in the breasts ofpersons of ahnost (;•'■. ry des- cription. Indeed, to use the words of Mr- iHick- nesse, who knew him well, — " he shared liis good things, in the day of his fortune, with the friends of his pro^^pciitj' ; and he divided the pittance that remained, in the hour of distress, with the companions of his ad vers' ty." -In tlie memoirs of Miss S. recently published, and v\ho once lived at Piercefield, an Odit will be found on the death of Lewe/fen ap Grifith, the last Prince of Wales, whom the atiti\oress si^p- poses was killed at or near this spot. Be tliis as it may, the Cuk, written at /{/^^ccw years of age, must bi pronounced highly creditable to the |imiable JVii>s Smith's genius and tiicmory. Upon reaching the Passage-house, we were not alile to cross for some hour^j. It is supposed THE SFVE-RN. Q.Bj that this ferry is as ancient .is tliat of the Old Passage, nearer to Chepsto.v But it may be met!i!oiied, th.it Oliver Croiuvvtll suppressed it on account of a small bo'ly ol' republicans being lost here by tiu lesiirned iiKiitention of the boat- men. It was revived m 1718, and belongs to the St. Pierre faniiiy. The Severn, at' the New Passage, is about three uiiles wide ; and it wasdiverimg to behold the porpoises tossing and tuniblMig on the sur- face cif the tumultuous tile ! The /-oarse re- sounding Hevtnr takes its rise in Montgomery-. shire, passes by Shrewsbury, Worcester, Glou- cester, &c. then loses itself, by means of the Bris- tol Channel, in the waves of the Atlantic ocean ! When our patience was almost exhausi-ed, v/e met with a small boat, and got ovei' with ease. A stagexonvey-ed us the remaining twelve miles, passing along through rural villages, particulcirly West bufy, to the famous city of Bristol. I am. Sir, Your's, &£,. 2S4 JUVENILE TOURIST. LETTER Fill. B'^ISTOt ; ITS ANTIQUFTY AND HISIC-RV; ITS EXTEVT, P9- PULATION, AND COMMERCE ; COLSTOn's SCHOOL ; EDUCA- TION society; dissenting burying ground; hot- wells ; MONUMENT OF DH. STOXEHOU&E ; CLIFTON ; DUH- HSM downs; savage and chatterton ; kcyn^ham ; bath; its antiquities and siiu^tion; its baths aMD puijp-uooM ; beau NASH ; catiiidral; Sidney CARDbNS ; LANDSnOiVN ; PRIOR PARK 3 DR. JAMES i-ORDVCiiJ TUB KEY, MR. WaRNEP^. JjRISTOLis said to have been founded by Bren- nus, near four hundred years before the birth of Christ. It is also in the Hst of the fortified and eminent cities that were in Britain in the year 430, when the Roman* abandoned the island. In history it makes a figure, pariicularly for its extent and population. In the year 1211, King John laid a tax upon all the Jews, throughout his dominions. One of the unfortunate race of Abraham, residing in Bristol, resisted the tax, for which he was fined 10,000 marks. This sum the Jew refused to pay, which so exasperated the king, that he commanded one of his teeth to be drawn every daj' till he complied. He had but eight, and suffered seven of them fo be pulled out, when he paid the fine rather than part with the last tooth ! We are also loid that King BllSSTOL. S3j Henry VH. uiib tlie Lord Chancellor, came to Bristol in the year 1490^ and kept his covt; I at St. Augustine's Back. The citizens, wiilin:.^ to shew hi_s MajesU^ ail the respect they could dunng his residence, arrayed thea^.selves in their i>est clothes. The king, houever, tliinking- some of tiicir wives rather too finely dressed Fcr ihv ir s..a- tion, ordered every citizen who was woiih twenty pounds in goods, to pay twenty^sbiHinv"^ Ifvanse. their wives went so suinptuously iij),' ; i'l the reign oF Charles I. this city vviis ■^■u.."•Uv;-.^ aad taken by the King's army ; but aFrcrv. ;ii(is, Ff a dolphin to be \v()in as a siuna or his giaiitude. Tlie In- Jirmtnj/ \uve is likewise a noble institution, and there are o her builchttgs entitled to attention. In tiiis City the IJapiists have an instuntion, entitled the Jildncation Socisii/, where young oien are educated for the mini;>try. it has been en- riched by legacies, particularly by the valuable library of Dw Lewcllyn, as well as that of Dr. Gifford, for many years sub-libraria;) to the Bri- tish Museum. Curiosities, together with a painted window, are entitled to attention, 'ihe society, flouiished for man}' years under the supeyinten- dance of (my much respected relatives,) the Rev. BRISTOL. -287 Hugh Evans, A, M. and his sov^, the Rev. Caleb Evans, D. D. The Rev. Hugh Evans died midtis honk febilis in i7SI, having reached the 69th year of his age. Few men were so beloved through life, and so ianitnted at their decease, as was this good man, distinguished for his patriarchal simplicity and piety. The Rev. Dr. Evans succeeded him in the labours of the pastoral office, and in the ar- duousdutiesof theacademy. He possessed a fund ofgood sense, a considerableshare of learning, and a pleasing talent for public speaking. To these qualifications he added an enlightened zeal and a persevering activity. It will not, therefore, be a jnatter of surprise that his pulpit labours were very acceptable, and tothela.-,t he preserved his poj)uhvrity. This is mentioned to his praise, as he always preached l« theunderstanding, and deemed ■vociferation, whatever charms it has with the mnltirude, unsuitable to the dignity of the chris- tian ministry. Beside Sermons and other mis- cellaneous publications^ he distinguished him- self in a controversy with Johu Jfes/ei/, at the commencement of the American war, for he was a warm friend of civil and rehgious liberty. His triumph over the founder of Methodism, was decisive. Wesley's biographers ashamed of the business, pass it over in silence. This excellent • man died during the month of August, 1791, after a few months illness, in the o4th year of his age. His funeral was numerously and respect- ids JUVENILE TOURIST. ably attcnclecl. On tbat day (I well remember it) many tears were shed to his memory! Both Father 'SipA Son lie interred near each other, in the Baptist burying-ground, and each of t!ic heacl-siones is covered with a Ln tin epitaph. Twc years aj^^o (July !807) I visited this crowded cemetry, and str;;ycd awhile among the tombs. There were many inscriptions ; the following on the denth of two inlani orand children of the Kev. H. Evc-ns, (sons of Mr. Thomas Mullett,) who died in the year 1771, is woriliy ofbein^ ■preserved : InexoraMy cilm with dread career See Death hits pass'd, with ruin marks liis way, fwo Cut RUBS clad in clay now mouldering her« Turn'd not liis step nor could his course delay ; Low levfil'd in the dust tlie babes are laid. Death pitied not the rose of infant bloom ; Nor could A parent's tenderntss dissuade. Or soften tiie fell tyrant of the tomb. Witliout ion- tariiance in these dark retreats, T'was theirs to brc.the contagion's baleful breath ; 'Ere dear-bought knowledge had destroy'd their peace. They languish'd smiling in the amis of death ; To happier climes than fancy ever flies. Thro' Df.aih's impenetrable gloom they trod, A \oice divine came issuing from tlie skies. They heard, and hail'd their SAViourt and their Gob! These lines are beautiful — I have not beea able to ascertain their author, they form a fine contrast to the rubbish by which ihis and other repositories of the dead are disgraced. Among tlie remains of ministers deposited here, are those of tlie Rev. James JSeie^ton, A. M. wlio was assistant tutor at the Baptist academy. He BRISTOL. 289 a sensible calm modest man, he taught the clas-^ sics at his own apartments also, and had the fe- licity of numbering the celebrated Hannah More, among his pupils. He died in the year 1790, and his funeral sermon preached and published by his friend and associate in the academy, Dr> C. Evans, was an affectionate and honourable tribute of respect to his memory. Ai Fish Ponds, in the vicinity of Bristol^ is a mansion for the reception of the insane, and where they are treated wiih great humanity : " Practical Observations on Insanity," by its su- perintendant. Dr. Joseph Mason Cox, are entitled to particular attention. Alas ! that there should be so many cases of religious madness, since re- velation was designed to enlighten and cheer us in our path to immortality ! One evening, during my stay at Bristol, I vi- sited another burying-ground, Brunswick-square, because it contains the ashes of an excellent mniden aunt, to whom my earliest years are in- debted, and who was possessed of good sense, ac- companied with unaffected piety. Indeed, my young friend, cemeteries are interesting to the contemplative mind ! 'Tis pleasant in the, peaceful, serious hour. To tread the silent sward that wraps the dead^ ■ Once onr companions in the clieerl'ul walks Of active life — the same ere long 111 the dark chambers of profound repose ! All have their /cjdrfrci here — and 1 have mine To DIE — what is it hut to sleep, and sleep, ?ii0r feel the wearincs of dark delay 2 C ^90 JUVENILE TOURIST. ^^^, Tlirough flic long iiiglit of tirae, and nothing know ()i inlerveniiig centuries elapsed. When thy sweet morn, eternity, begins ? Or else; — what is it but a welcome change From worse to better — from a world of pain To one where flesh at least can notliing feel. And pain and pleasure have no equal sway ? What is it — but to meet e regulations, to pros- perity. He is represented as when living, with his waistcoat opened almost to the bottom^ and a white hat under his arm. He died here at an ad- vanced age in the year 1761, and his death was regretted b}-^ the inhabitants. With ail his foi- bles, he was cliaritable, and exerted himself with zeal in the establishment of the Infirmary, a cir- cumstance honourable to h.is memory. An anec- dote is told of him too singular to be omitted. Wlien he brou!i;ht in his account to some Qen- tlemen, among other articles he charged — For BATH. '299 making ofis man happy, 10/! Being questioned about tlie meaning of so strange an item, he de- clared, that happening to overhear a poor man dedare to his wife, and a large family of children, that 10/. would make him happy, 4ie coiilrl not avoid trying the experiment. He./idded, that if they did not chiise to acquiesce in the charge, he was ready to refund the money. The gentle- men, struck with such an instance of good-na- ture, thanked him for his benevolence, and de- sired that the sum might be doubled, as a proof of their satisfaction. Bath, besides its Cathedral, which has many fine monuments, contains several parish chur- ches, and also meeting4iouses for the metho- dists and dissenters. Here is also a theatre ; and Sidney Gardens, laid out, v/ith delightful walks, are not far from the city. Lansdown,in the vicinity of Bath, is rendered memorable by a battle in the civil wars of Charles the First, where the King's forces defeated those of the Parliament, Jaly 5, 1643; bnt the victors sustained a loss by the death of the brave Sir Bevil Grenville. A monument is erected here ty George Lord Lansdown, in commemora- tion of,the above victory. The inscription stands thus : — To (lie immortal memory of bis renowned grandfather, and valiant Cornish friends, who conquered. Drying in the royal cau^e, July 5, ITvlG, 300 JUVENILE TOURIST. This coliimu was dedicated By the Hon, Geohge Gren ville. Lord Lansdown, 17^0, - Dulce est pro patrii Slori. This monument I visited, but it is sridly out of repair. The spot is delightful, affording a view of the city of Bristol, an«l even of the mountains of the Principality. Lord Clarendon remarks, that " in this battle, on the King's part, were more officers and gen- tlemen of quality slain than private men ; but that which would have clouded any victory, and made the loss of others less spoken of, was the death of Sir Bevil Grenville. He was, indeed, an excellent person, whose activity, interest, and reputation, were the foundation of what had been done in Cornwall ; and his temper and af- fection so pacific, that no accident which liap- pened could make any impression on him; and his example kept others from taking any thing ill, or at least seeming to do so : in a word, a brighter courage, and gentler disposition, were never married together, to make the most inno- cent and cheerful conversation." From some parts of Bath is seen Frior Park, where Ralph Allen, Esq. resided for many years. He was, originally, in the lower ranks of life, but by the establishment of the cross-posts raised himself to opulence. Poi'K often vi- sited at Prior Park, and here he introduced Warburton, who afterwards married Mr. Allen's niece, which evenmally elevated him to the bi- shopric of Gloucester. Allen v.us parlial to the PRIOR PARK, GOl iiteiati, and treated his friends with hospitality. The gardens adjoining the mansion arc spread out on the declivity of the hill. In one of the walks the water seems as if gushing out from a rock, and near it is a statue of Moses, with a stafFin his hand. He appears in an attitude e.K- pressive of the admiration he must have felt after having struck the rock and seen the water flowing from it ! Since writing the ahove, I have visited Pr/or~ PaykfA large mass of buildings, situated on an eminence, and encircled by beautiful gardens. I saw it in a state of desertion. Of the house- keeper I asked several questions, many of which she could not answer, modestly saying, it was not hfir spere. ! She however referred me to an old woman below, who occupied the entrance into the grounds, and from Aer indeed 1 learnt many curious particulars. Pope she well remem- bered small and diminutive, IVarhurton gigantic and proud, whom slie termed w/3/ Lard, Alien mild and conciliating, always intent on the happiness of those around him. These I consider as cha- racteristic traits. This poor old woman was the humble " historian of the plain," and I was gratified with her unassuming modesty. Few mansions have enjoyed more of human pros- perity, but it is gone down, and report says, for want of a proper title, it will soon be laid level with the dust ! Thus the mansions of the great^ like human life itself, appear for a lUtletime and - then vanish awai/! 2 D 302 JUX'ENILE TOURIST. The Rev. Dr. Jaaies Fordyce, author of Ser- mons to Young JVoncn; and also to \oung Men*; together with some admirable Jddresses to the Deity, closed his active and useful life in this city, 179O, where he lies buried. He was alto- gether an extraordinary man, notwithstanding the exceptions of Mrs. Woolstonecraft to part of his writings. The Rev. Dr. Lindsay, in his Funeral Sermon, has done justice to his charac- ter and raemor}-. As to Dr. Fordyce I have often heen surprised that his works have not been published, with a Life of itsAutltor. No man is better fitted for it than the Rev. Dr. Lindsay, who I hope will speedily undertake it. His productions, making allowance for the style which is acceptable to young people, are calculated to make an impres- sion on the rising generation Before I took my leave of Bath, being beneath the hospitable roof of my friend Mr. T r, I had the pleasure of being introduced, by a gen- tleman of his acquaintance, to the Rev. Mr. Warner, the pedestrian tourist through Wales and -carious parts of England. He is a pleasing writer, and his History of Bath is creditable to his in- genuity and industry. His Sermons also, are not only well written, but they breathe the spirit of Christianity. Indeed he embraces every oc- * There is a very neat edition «f these Sermons, printed in a ronvenient porial.Ie size, publiilied lately, price 7s. or sepa- rate 3s. 6(1. eadi, wliich I would recomaiciid to the aUention o ufiny young iTiends RE'V. MR. WARNER. 303 casion to promote those deeds of cliaiity, wdich promote essentially the happiness and comfort of ihe inferior classes of mankind. Such a conduct is worthy of the Christian Pastor, md con^^enial to the spirit of tlie gospel of Jesus Christ. 1 am, dear Sir, Your's, 3cc. i^^@*j 2 B 2 304 ^ JUVENILE TOURIST LETTER IX. riNE Evr.NING ; CAI.NE ; COUNCII.; MARLBOROTGH ; Tfll. DOWNS ; CURIOUS UFFICTS OF A FOG ; NKWBUBY J DEATH OF LORD FALKLAND; READiNr. ; cat's-ghove UlLl ; maidenhead; vicar of euav; Windsor; its casile AND terrace ; PORTRAIT OF OUR SAVIOUR ; ETON ; ITS school; GRAY THE POET; IlERSCHCL; BEACONSFIELD J EDMUND BURKE J WAILER ; ST. GILES CIIAI.FONT; MIL- TON; UXBRIDGE, ; HARROW ON THE HILL; FADDINOTON; TYliUF.N ; ISLINGTON. DEAR SIP, Leaving Bath in the afternoon, the evening came on so gently, characterised by its stiHness, that I amused inyL-slf by fixing my eye on the firmament, till it was in a glow from one end to the other with the brightest of the constella- tions ! Orion with his belt shone with its usual splendor. How magnificent are the works of nature! How worthy of our serious contempla- tion ! ^Vhen tlie bright orh of ruddy eve is sunlf, And the slow day-beam talces its last farewell, Ixetiriiig leisurely — how sweet to niuvk The watery scintillation ofthe star That first dares penetrate its flimsy skirt. And, as the subtle medium steals avtay. C A L N E . — MAR L B O II O U G II . 30.3 "- Refin'd to nothing, brighter and brigliter glows ! How cheerful to behold tlie host of uiglic Eucoiuag'd by exani|)le, I'jst revive — And splendid Constellations, long extinct. In quick succession kindle ! iiunnjs. VitG passed through Ca/ne, Marlhoroiigh, and Neichtoj/, to Reading, but eacli of these places must receive a description. Cfl///c is a town of antiquity, and sends two members to parhament. It has near 3000 inha- l)itants, and aianufnetorles of broad cloth, serges, ^e. In the year 977, u grand council was held here, relating to the celibacy of the clergy ; a subjecL which had excited, between the monks and the priests, a violent controversy. In the midst of the dispute the floor of the chamber gave way, by which accident many where kil- led I Dunstan^ who presided and espoused the cause of the monks, was the only person who escaped unhurt. This omen was, of course, construed in favour of celibacy. It is said, indeed, that so sagacious an indication on behalf of iLUMUonks, terminated the controversy. In the vicinity ofCalne the Marquis of Lands- down lias a seat, where Dr. Priestly presided for seven years, in the capacity of librarian to his late lordship, and during which period lie nnide several of those discoveriesin natural philosophy which have rendered his name lanious through- out the world. Marlborough is a large town, consisting of ©no broad street. The shops being supported 2 D 3 306 JUVENILE TOURIST. in front by columns, forming piazzas, mako a singular appearance. It is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, &c. Anciently the freemen, on their admission, presented the mayor two grey-hounds, two white capons, and a white bull, to which the arms of the corporation bear an allusion. Here is little trade and few manu- factories ; but its market is supplied with corn and cheese of an excellent quahly. In 1689, Lord John Churchill was advanced, by King William, to the dignity of Earl of Marlborough, and by Queen Anne, to that of Duke of Marl- borough : this was the warrior for whom Blen- heim-house, near Oxford, was built by go- vernment ; thus rev>'arding the services which he li;ul performed to his country. The Mar/lorovgJi Dr.zais stretch themselves for many a mile, (not unlike to Salisbury-Plain,) remarkable only for their extent and dreariness. — The solitary shepherd is seen here and there watching his beloved flock, while mounds of earth tell the tale of former times, where the warrior reclines, dead to the rage of contest, and insensi- ble to the shout of victory ! It is melancholy to reflect, that in traversing this island, so many ?pots should be celebrated for their battles in the page of history. In one ofSpeed'i, maps of Eng- land these parts are marked by the representatio» of the embatlled hosts ; an impressive illustration, of the history of our country : III Britain where lie hills :ind fertile plains^ Like bcr Iiistoric piigc, are overspread NEAVBDRY. 307 With vestiges of war — the shepherd boy Climbs the green hillock to survey bis flock. Then sweetly sh eps upon his favourite hill. Not conscious that his bed's a warrior's tomb ! N. BIOOMFIELD. Nezcbun/, the next town we came to, is large and populous ; it rose out of the ruins of the vil- lage of Speen ; hence part of it still has the name o? Spee/iham Land. It was once noticed for its woollen manufactory, which is now removed to the western parts of the kingdom. This town was the scene of two battles, fought in the civil wars of Charles the First, at no great distance of time from each other. Here perished the vir- tuous and accomplished Falkland, whose loss was a serious injury to the royal cause. He had done every thing in his power to prevent hos- tilities between the King and the Parliament. Even after the rupture we are told, that when there was an overture of peace, he was very so- licitous to promote it ; and sitting among his friends, he often, after a deep silence and fre- quent sighing, would, with a shrill and sad ac- cent, repeat x\\e word peace ! peace! passionately professing, that the agony of war, and the view of the calamities the nation did and must endure, took his sleep from him, and Avould break his heart! On the morning of the battle he seems to have had a presentiment of his death ; for calling for a clean shirt, and being" asked the reason of it, he replied, ''that if he was slain in the battle, th-cy should not find his 9 308 JUVENMLE TOUTvIST. body in foul linen," And being dissuaded also by his friends from going into ihe fight, as he was no military officer, he said, " He was weary of the times, foresaw much misery to his own country, and did believe he should be out of it before night !" He fell in the thirty-fourth 3'ear of his age ; having, says his biographer, " so much dispatched the true business of life, that the eldest rarely attain to that immense knowledge, and the youngest enter not into the world with more innocency." Heading was in repute under the Saxon kings, and is, at present, a place of extent and })o- pulation. The streets are wide, and the houses handsome. The river Kennet runs through it in five separate streams, and fall into the Thames about a mile below it. The country by which it is surroiinded is diversified by gen- tlemens' seats, woody hills, and land in higli cultivation. The town is divided into three parishes, each having its church ; there are, likewise, meetinghouses for the dissenters, and one for the quakers. Malt is its article of trade, and is chiefly sent to London. The town was besieged in the time of Charles the First, by the parliament, to wliom, at last., the roval garrison yielded, marching out with, tiie honours of war! Heading abbey was long an ornament to the town ; parliaments have been held in it, and in the reign of Henry the VUlh, some laws were enacted beneath its roul HEADING. 309 The gate-house is still a picturesque ruin, its walk have run to decay ever since its dissolution. Reading gave birth to Jrchbishop Lam!, who, though a patron of learning, was a bigot ; his exultation in the sufferings of the Puntans, through means of the star-chamber, cannot easily be reconciled with religion or humanity. Some say that the patriotic Judge Holt was ■a native of this town ; he flourished during the reign of King William, and was distinguished for his distribution of justi«e. His uprightness in his judicial capacity is panegyrised under the noble character of Verm the Magistrate, in the fourteenth number of the Tatler, which cannot be read without admiration. Dr. Richard V^alpy who lives here, and preside.^ over Reading School, is well known for his classical productions. The theological pieces, particularly his Sermons, which have proceeded from his pen, also are marked by the libeial and manly spirit of Christianity. Thisgentieir.an has published the Poems which have been spoken on different occasions at Reading School, and they are highly creditable to his seminary. His own in- troductory poem, entitled the Progress of Science, has some beautiful lines in it ; ihe Address to Sci- ence, with which it closes, is admirable : — O bid amtiition cease to Inst for pow'r. Bid frowning vengeance tliirst for blood no more ! Bill liostile rape, and civil discord cease, Kostore tlie blessings and tlie arts of peace ! So while along the stream of life mankind Throngli doubtful wajs tlieir various course shalt wiad. Like a fair flow'r thou on the banks shalt blow. Dispensing fragrance oa the wave below ! 310 JUVENILE TOUEIST. His Poetical C//;o;?o/o2;y, combining the princi- pal facts, is ;v most useful book for schools, and 1 have used it for years past uith considerable advantage in my own seminary. At a little distance from Reading, to the wesr, is a rising ground, called Cat\-Grote Hill, wliich is composed of oyster-shells, on a bed of green sand, with a chalky bottom ! When these oysters are taken out of the heap, they are said to have the appearance of reality, the opposite valves being closed, and possessing the usual form. Indeed some have insinuated that wheiv opened the animal ai)pears perfect, and the shell not in the le-iist petrified, though, upon being ex- posed to the air, it crumbles into atoms ! This pha^nomenon has been deemed a vestige of the universal deluge : the hill is forty miles from any part of the ocean. Maidi'nhead, a middling town, was the ne.vt place at which we arrived ; it has some good inns, being a thoroughfare to the metropolis. J^ear it stands the village of Bmy, famous for the in- cumbent belon«;iri2: to its church in the sixteenth century- The story is thus related— At the time Henry the Eighth shook otVthe papal su- premacy, the Vicar of /i;Y/j/ preached in favour of the church of Rome, in the reign of Ed- ward the Sixth, wlicn Protestantism was estab- lished by act of parliament, the vicar renounced his formerprincipIes,and became a strenuous ad- vocate for the Reformation. On the accession of Queen Mary, he again vindicated the church \viNDson. 3U of Rome, and became a zealous Papist, inveigh- ing with acrimony against all those who abhorred the Romish religion. He enjoyed his benefice till the reformed religion was establisljed in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, when he once more changed with the times, and enjoyed his vicarage till his death ! Hence liis conduct gave rise to a proverbial expression that has been ever since preserved ; that w^hen any tiine-servhig person complies for the sake of emolument, he is com- pared to the V'^iCAR of Bray ! Such charac- ters reflect no honour on human nature ; but, alas ! they are not unfrequent among mankind : Religion thus removed, the sacred yoke .'Viid bond of all society is broke ; P'or what would man have left on earlh to fear. If none above did witness what they swear ! After leaving Maidenhead, on the ri^^ht, the stately towers of IVhnhor rise to view, the resi- dence of his present Majesty. The town itself has little to aitract notice ; but the castle has been occasionally, for 700 years past, the abode of the kings of England ! It was built by William the Conqueror, and is situated on a hi!' whence there is a delightful prospect; the Tiiames, and its meadows, togetlier with the fields and forest, all conspiring to fill the mind of the beholder with admiration I From the sum- mitof the round tower can be seen the followiii'^ counties :— Middlesex, Essex, Hertford, Bucks, 312 JUVENILE TOURIST. Oxford, "Wills, Suny, Sussex, and Bedford. St. George's Hall is reckoned the grandest in Europe, and is embellished witli elegant paintings. The chapel of St. George is a piece of Gothic ar- chitecture, and, perhaps, the best finished in the world. It was built by Edward III. in honour of ^ his new order of the garter, and dedicated to St. George, the titular guardian of England. The houses of the Poor Knights offVindsnr are called the Royal Foundation. The intention of Ed- ward III. was only to provide for such as were weak in body and in low circumstances, not hav- ing a sufficiency to live as became a miHtary pro- fession. When the King is here, the flag waves from the Round Tower ; and on the terrace his Majesty and his numerous family often walk, and converse with familiarity. Long may this au- gust group continue to enjoy these recreations! I could not help remarking, that in surveying this palace, and also tliose gentlemen's seats wiiich are decorated with paintings, our savi- our's portrait generally presents itself to view \ and that between most of them, though executed by ditlierent hands, tliere may be observed a similarity. How far they may be pronounced representations of the original, it is impossible to say, nor can I ascertain whence the artist derives his ideas on the subject. I indeed lately met with the following passage in an old author of the last century, which deserves transcription: — " Xc«- tiius, the pro-consul, in that epistle written to the Roman senate, which goes under his name, who WINDSOR. 31$ residing at Jerusalem at the time of the death of our Saviour, gives this description of him. At that time there was one Jesus, who was called of the nations the Prophet of Truth. — A man goodly to behold, having a revered counte- nance, his stature somewhat tall, his hair after the colour of the ripe hazel-nut, from his ears somewhat crisped, parting itselfin the midst of hishead, and waving wilh the wind, after the man- ner of the Nazarites ; his face without wrinkle, mixed with moderate red ; his beard somewhat copious, tender, and divided at the chin ; his eyes grey, various, and clear. He was in re- buke severe, in instruction wonderful — cheerful with gravity. He sometimes wept, but was never seen to laugh; in talk full of understaad- ing, sparing and modest." Such is the descrip- tion given by Mr. Thomas Grantham, in his book entitled the Ancient Christian Religion. But it is to be regretted, that this author doe^ not inform us where this epistle is to be found, and whether we may rely on its authenticity. Dr. Lardner is silent on the subject. Certain it is, however, that the usual portraits of our bles- sed Saviour exhibit features expressive of solemn thought, in conjunction with consummate meek- ness and humanity ! In approaching Windsor, you perceive, to the rigiit, the town of ^ BUKKE. 317 a neat church, and several houses of respecta- bility. In its vicinity is the scat of the late Ed- mund Burke, Esq. an extraordinary character, considered either in a literary on political point of vie«v. He was a man of exquisite genius, and his writings abound with the finest specimens of oratory. His work on the Beautiful and SuhUme, thought indeed to be more ingenious than solid, must be pronounced a very entertaining piece of composition. Of his political productions readers will judge differently, according to the parties which they have joined ; but even those who lament the complection of his later writings^ confess that his mind displayed to the last, marks of a vigorous imagination, and of an unimpover- jshed fertility ! He died at Beaconsfield, July 1797^ as they were carrying him from his chair to his bed. It was supposed that the death of a favourite son accelerated his dissolution. But a few months before his disease he writes con- cerning this event in language indicative of that grief which he felt on the occasion; — '' The storm, (says he,) has gone over me, and [lie like one of those old oaks which the late hurri- cane has scattered about me. 1 am stripped of all my honours ! 1 am torn up by the roots, and lie prostrated on the earth !" Gazing upon the spot where he lies interred, and impressed with the silence which reigned around, these lines oc- curred to me : — Great man of language ! wlicnce this mighiycliange— This dumb deipair and drooping of the head r 2 V.' 3 •lis JUVENILE TOURIST. Thougli strong persuasion hung upon thy lip.. And sly insinuation's softer arts, In ambusli la? upon thy flowing tongue — Alas, how fallen [ Thick mists and silence Rest, like a weary cloud, upon thy breast. A neat monument, with a plain inscription, is erected to his memory. In the church-yard is to be seen, encircled with iron rails, the tou\b of Waller, the poet, and also the poiiticiarv, whose versatile history at once amuses and instructs posterity. He died at Beaconsfield of a dropsy, October l687. The preface to his poems says, that" he was the pa- rent of English verse, and the first who shewed us our tongue had beauty and numbers in it. Our language owes more to him than the French does to Cardinal Richlieu and the whole aca- demy. The tongue came into his hands like a rough diamond ; he polished it first, and to that degree, that all artists, since him have admired the workmanship, without pretending to mend it." Akenside gives a characteristic description of Waller's poetry, which will be recognised b}* all who are familiar with his writings : — \V;ilIcr lonjzs All on the margin ol some fiow'ry stream To spread his careless limbs amid the cool Of plautane shades, and ;o the list'ning deer The tale of slighted vows, and love's disdain. Resound soft warbling ail the live-long day ; Consenting zephyr sighs, the weeping rill Joins in his plaint melodious — mute the groves ; •Vi.i liill :i id dile with all their echoes mourn '■ 4 UXBRIDGE. 319 In passing through the retired village of St. Giles Challont, Icould not help visiting the house whither the great Miltojn retired from . the plague, then raging in the metropolis. The Rev. Mr. P. accompanied me to the ijouse, which is small, and is at present in a ruinous condition. It is inhabited by a poor family, who shewed me a closet which they called Milton's study; where he, probably, wrote Paradise Regained! El wood, thequaker, suggested the idea of such a work just before he came to Chalfont, and the poet pre- sented him with it on his return to London. Over the entrance of the house arms are affixed ; from this circumstance, and some others men- tioned to me, it is believed that it was, at the time of Milton's residence, one of the neatest houses in the village. Elvvaod indeed calls it a fretty box ; and even now it has the appearance of having once possessed respectability.* In the church lie the remains of two public characters. Dr. Hare, bishop of Chichester, whose pamphlet on Studying the Scriptures reflects honour on his memory ; and Sir Hugh Paliiser, whose squab- ble with Admiral Keppel adds no lustre to the page of British history. We next reached Uxhridge, a town full of inns, being the first post-stage from LondoH 10 Oxford, [t is situated on the river Colne, and well in- * See also the Lilt of Milton, prefixed to my Edition of the Paradise Lost, accompanied by an abridgement of B'^iiop New- ton's Motes, witli Engravings and llhisir.Uions, for the improve- uieiit of the rising generation. 320 JUVENILE TOURIST. habited. Here Charles the First entered into a treaty with a Committee of the Parliament, 1644, known by the n:ime of the Uxbiidge Treaty. In the vicinity of the lown are the remains of a camp supposed to have been raised by the Britons when the Romans invaded this island. Thtrrozc on the Hill is seen ou ihe left of the road to London. The sj)ire of the church excites notice from almost every part of the coinitr}'. Its school has been celebrated, having sent forth excellent scholars ; and among the rest Sir Wil- lintn Joues, M'ho is the ornament and glor}' of our country. At this place it was (according to Lord Teignmouth) that " he invented apolitical play, in which Dr. William Bennet, Bishop of Cloyne, and the celebrated Dr. Parr were his principal associates. The}' divided the fields in the neighbourhood of Harrow according to a map of Greece, into states luid kingdoms; each fixed upon one as his dominions, and assumed an ancient name. Some of their school-fellows consented to be styled /jarlxuians, who were to in- vade their territories and attack their hillocks, which were denominated fortresses. The ciiiefs vigorously defended ihtir respective domains against the inciir>ions of the enemy : and in these imitative wars the young statesmen held coun- cils, made vehement harangues, and composed memorials; all, doubtless, were boyish, but cal- culated to fill their minds with ideas ofleuislation and civil government." The large village of V<